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HAWAII
AND A REVOLUTION




I




_~;




NATIVE WOMEN SELLING LEIS.




HAWAI I
AND A REVOLUTION
THE PERSONAL EXPERIENCES
OF A
CORRESPONDENT IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS
DURING THE CRISIS OF 1893
AND SUBSEQUENTLY
BY


MARY H. KROUT
NEW YORK
DODD, MEAD AND COMPANY
1898




Copyright, 1898,
BY DODD, MEAD AND COMPANY
JN LSO  Sit, CAMBID, U...
JOHN WILSON AND SON, CAMBRIDGE, U.S.A.




Co Mrl3 Tatber
THIS BOOK IS DEDICATED IN AFFECTION
AND REVERENCE








PREFACE.


WiITHIN     the past five years the Hawaiian
Islands have been a centre of what might
almost be termed international interest. From a state
of dissension and public distrust —the outgrowth
of a semi-barbarous monarchy — it has advanced to
a state of intelligent and wholly prosperous selfgovernment.
In this change the native Hawaiian has been an
object of much misplaced sympathy on the part
of those who know nothing of Hawaiian affairs, or
who are, at best, merely superficial and not wholly
disinterested observers. With the prosperity that
has followed the founding of the Republic - a prosperity in which the natives have been permitted to
share  many new laws have been enacted which
have conferred upon them increased privileges and
a degree of liberty which they have never enjoyed
vii




Viii
oool


PREFACE.


under any ruler of their own race. This is especially true in the disposition of what were known as
Crown lands, which were held by the chiefs and
could not be acquired by the common people. Now
they are enabled to buy tracts of land freehold;
and this alone must prove an incentive to greater
effort on their part to fit themselves for the dignity
and responsibility of the householder.
It should be explained, as I have endeavoured to
show in my Introduction, that the President of the
Hawaiian Republic (Mr. Dole), the Attorney-General
(Mr. Smith), the Chief Justice (Mr. Judd), and others,
who finally approved the abrogation of the monarchy, were all Hawaiian born. Their mothers and
fathers had gone out to the Islands in the early days,
and had worked strenuously to civilise the people
and give the country the government of a civilised
nation. It was their country, therefore, as much as
it was that of any descendant of the Kamehamehas,
and they loved and served it as loyally as any native
Hawaiian could have done. All that it possesses
to-day of worth, as I have stated repeatedly in this
work, is due to their labour and to no other influence.
They had faith in the ultimate triumph of enlightenment and justice, and strenuously advocated the pres



PREFACE.


ix


ervation of the autonomy of Hawaii, even through
the long and turbulent reign of Kalakaua. When
Queen Liliuokalani came to the throne, more perverse than her brother, more determined to restore
native rule in its most aggravated form, her subjects
lost hope, and realised that there were but two alternatives,-the relapse of the country into the state
from which it had so painfully emerged, or the
administration of the government by the AngloSaxon, aided by the natives of the better class. This
has been brought to pass.
When I visited the Islands first, in i893, I went
prejudiced in favour of the natives, deeply sympathising with them because they had been dispossessed of their lawful possessions. A careful and
conscientious study of the situation on the spot led
me to change my views absolutely, and I perceived
that whatever had been done had been done of
necessity and with wisdom and forbearance.
In my account of the political changes that have
occurred, I have had occasion to criticise Mr. Cleveland and his personal representative, Mr. Blount,
with some severity, and in defence of my statements
I will merely say that much that I have written I saw;
the rest is a matter of public knowledge, and may




x                 PREFACE.
be found in a published report of the official inquiry
into the case by the United States Senate through
its committee of investigation. This is corroborated
by State papers recorded and on file in the Government building in Honolulu.
M. H. K.
LONDON,January 9th, I898.




CONTENTS.
PAGES
INTRODUCTION........          1.-31
The Old Kamehamehas. - The Crisis of 1887.- The Gibson
Cabinet dismissed. - Kalakaua's Debts. - The King's Extravagance. - Death of Kalakaua. - Queen Liliuokalani. - A Struggle for Supremacy. - Crisis of January, 1893. - The Queen and
her Cabinet. - The Provisional Government. - Mr. Willis' Mission. - A Republic established. - The Revolution of i895.President McKinley's Proclamation. - An Uncertain Future.
CHAPTER I.
THE FIRST IMPULSE............       33-41
A Newspaper Manager. - A Rebuff. - Feminine Diplomacy.
- Success.
CHAPTER II.
DISAPPOINTMENTS..............   42-63
A Farewell Dinner. - Disaster. - An Unlucky Family.Female War-Correspondents.-An Old Friend.-Shattered
Hopes.- The Expected Revolution.- Renewed Energy.Final Obstacles.-An Anxious Moment.-Departure.
CHAPTER III.
FROM CHICAGO TO HAWAII...........    64-77
My Guardian Angel. -San Francisco.-The High-Binders.
-Voyage to Hawaii. -The Brighton of Honolulu. - First
Impressions.-A Living Fairyland.
CHAPTER IV.
A FIRST IMPRESSION...............        78-83
The Royal Hotel.-The Native at Home.-Bitter Disappointment.
xi




X11ii


CONTENTS.


CHAPTER V.
PAGIS
IN HONOLULU..................   84-100
A Cosmopolitan Society. - The Labour System. - Japanese
Immigrants.- The Hawaiian Jehu.- Houses and Habits.Chinese Servants.- Hawaiian Women. -Society in Honolulu.
Schools.
CHAPTER VI.
THE HOME OF KAIULANI........... IOI-IO8
An Unusual Palace. - A Perilous Adventure. - Rapid Growth
of Trees.
CHAPTER VII.
AN OSTRICH FARM...............   109-113
Ostrich Incubators. -Division of Labour.
CHAPTER VIII.
A VISIT TO CAMP BOSTON...........                   114-121
Camp Routine. - Sailors' Occupations. -  "Finnegan." - A
Sailor's Handiwork.
CHAPTER IX.
KING KALAKAUA'S PALACE...........  122-137
The Royal Picture Gallery. -Insignia. - The Royal Mantles.
- Disused Crowns. -The Fourth of March. - A Scottish WoolGrower. - Mr. Gay's Experiences. - Prospects of Hawaii.
CHAPTER X.
THE PRESIDENT'S COMMISSIONER.........     138-149
President Cleveland's Action.-Great Expectations.-The
United States Envoy in Sight. - Mr. James H. Blount. - His
Credentials. - A Sad Disappointment.
CHAPTER XI.
THE LOWERING OF THE AMERICAN FLAG.......          150-164
The Annexation Club. - Mr. Stevens, the United States Minister. - A Domestic Tragedy. - Day of Lamentation. - An
Anxious Moment.- The Flag Lowered.- End of the American
Protectorate.
CHAPTER XII.
VIOLATED CORONETS.........                              65-171
The Crowns are Stolen. - A Dog Fight. -General Holiday.




CONTENTS.                        xiii
CHAPTER XIII.                   PAGES
THE PRINCESS KAIULANI.............                 172-177
Her Appeal. -The Princess in Washington. - Farewell
Manifesto.
CHAPTER XIV.
THE CHINESE POPULATION........... 178-I86
Chinese Worshippers. -A Chinese School. -A Chinese Matron. - A Chinese Fire-Brigade.
CHAPTER XV.
THE QUEEN DOWAGER............. I87-I94
The Queen's Apartment. - My Interview. - Native Dress.
CHAPTER XVI.
THE LEPER SETTLEMENT........... 195-202
First Signs of Leprosy. - Cheerfulness of the Lepers.Molokai.
CHAPTER XVII.
AN AUDIENCE WITH QUEEN LILIUOKALANI....... 203-208
Admiral Brown. - The Queen's Daily Life.
CHAPTER XVIII.
THE BLOUNT ADMINISTRATION...........             209-214
Mr. Willis.- Return to Honolulu.
CHAPTER XIX.
IN  HILO...................  215-234
Mahukona.-A Rough Voyage.-A Titanic Highway.-A
Catastrophe.-Mrs. Bishop's Narrative.-Life in Hilo.-A
Female Pastor. - Native Cookery. - Blight and Parasites.
CHAPTER XX.
A LITTLE JOURNEY TO KILEAUEA........    235-249
Chinese and Japanese. - Half-way House. - In the Crater. -
A Guest Book. - A Molten Sea. - A Narrow Escape. - Pel6.
CHAPTER XXI.
SOCIAL LIFE......250-263
Mark Twain's Experiences.- Effects of Education.- Hawaiian
Breakfast. - Manners and Customs. - Swimming Parties. -
Foreign Ships and Sailors. - On Board the Boston.




xiv                   CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XXII.                   PAGES
AN INTERLUDE............... 264-294
A Trip to New Zealand.-Samoa. -The Hurricane of i889.
-A Rebellion. - King Malietoa. - Kava. - New Zealand. -
R. L. Stevenson. - Sydney. - Memorial Day. - The Republic
Proclaimed. - The President's Address. - The Queen Agitator.
- The Constitution. - The Courts.
CHAPTER XXIII.
ANCIENT CUSTOMS................                    295-302
Music and Dancing. - Poetry and Religion. -Superstitions,
Arts, etc.
CHAPTER XXIV.
PRODUCTS...................  303-311
Flowers. - Wild Pigs. - Mosquitos. - Birds.
CHAPTER XXV.
THE PASSING OF THE NATIVE............ 312-321
Natural Affection. - Native Houses. - Effects of Civilisation.
-Childish Legislation. - Conclusion.
INDEX..........                     323




ILLUSTRATIONS.
PAGE
NATIVE WOMEN SELLING LEIS... Frontispiece
FORT STREET, HONOLULU....               89
NUNANU AVENUE, HONOLULU....           94
MARINES, CAMP BOSTON......14
Old Bishop Residence, former home of Liliuokalani.
THE EX-QUEEN LILIUOKALANI.... 203
PRESIDENT DOLE...........                 287
HEDGE OF NIGHT-BLOOMING CEREUS, FIVE HUNDRED
FEET IN LENGTH, AT OAHU COLLEGE.... 306
At the time it was photographed there were in bloom three thousand
perfect flowers.
GRASS HOUSE AT WAINAHU PLANTATION... 317




0




INTRODUCTION.


THROUGHOUT the year 1892 rumours of discontent and unrest in Honolulu were rife in
the United States. King Kalakaua, who succeeded
Lunalilo, was not descended from the hereditary
ruling line, but was elected by the Legislature in
February, I874. His reign was turbulent and corrupt, the political abuses becoming so unbearable in
I887 that the demand for reform finally culminated
in revolution. Others of less significance had preceded this, originating in the intrigues of corrupt
adventurers who surrounded the King, taking advantage of his weakness and his financial embarrassments, and plunging the country into difficult and
dangerous political complications. While without a
single exception these men brought /about their own
undoing from time to time, the direct effect of their
downfall was not so important and decisive as the
resistance which was made against their encroachments in 1887.
The old ruling line, "the old Kamehamehas," as
they are called by the Hawaiians, while frequently
I




2


INTRODUCTION.


possessing grave faults of character, had the wisdom
to choose as their advisers the ablest and most
public-spirited of the European and American residents in the Islands. From these were chosen the
chief members of their Ministry and the Justices of
the Supreme Court, but one native having served in
the latter capacity from the adoption of the first
constitution in I840.
King Kalakaua became imbued with jealousy of
the growing wealth and influence of the white men
in the Islands, and gradually alienated all who
might have counselled him wisely and unselfishly.
He chose for his associates instead, so far as he was
able, those who flattered his vanity and intensified
his race prejudices, they securing from him in return
large sums of money and immense tracts of the best
Crown lands. He showed more and more a disposition to encroach upon the rights and privileges
which the whites had enjoyed under his abler predecessors, and which it is only just to state they had
never abused. Whatever estates they acquired had
been purchased at equitable rates, and in several
instances where they had been gifts they had been
returned to the people and set apart for educational
purposes. This, in brief, was the situation in 1887.
In this year a secret league was formed which was
prepared to resist further demoralisation, and to
demand speedy and radical reforms. Arms were
secured, and in the guise of militia some five hun



THE CRISIS OF 1887.


3


dred men were equipped and drilled, ready to act
when the proper time arrived. Memorials had been
sent to their respective governments by the American, English, and German residents, setting forth
the existing state of affairs and asking for interference. In the interim the Rifles, as the military
organisation was called, had planned a sudden attack
upon the Palace; but it was abandoned, and more
peaceable means of securing justice agreed upon.
A public mass meeting was held, at which the grievances of the people were set forth, and at which
specific demands for their relief were made of the
King.
In his report to the Hon. J. H. Blount, who was
sent out to the Islands by President Cleveland in
I893, Professor W. D. Alexander says of this crisis:
"On the afternoon of the 30th of June, 1887, all
business in Honolulu was suspended, and an immense
meeting was held in the Armoury, on Beretania
Street, composed of all classes, creeds, and nationalities, but united in sentiment as never before or
since. The meeting was guarded by a battalion of
Rifles, fully armed. A set of resolutions were passed,
unanimously declaring that the Government had
'ceased through incompetence and corruption to
perform the functions and afford the protection to
personal and property rights for which all governments exist,' and demanding of the King the dismissal of his Cabinet, the restitution of the $71,000




4


INTRODUCTION.


received as a bribe from Aki (a Chinaman negotiating the unrestricted sale of opium in the Islands),
the dismissal of one Junius Kaae from the Land
Office, and a pledge that the King would no longer
interfere in politics."
The Cabinet was one of the most corrupt that
had ever existed in the Islands. It was composed
of W. M. Gibson (a Mormon emigrant sent out from
Utah as a missionary), Minister of Foreign Affairs;
L. Aholo, Minister of Interior; P. P. Kanoa, Minister of Finance; Antone Rosa, Attorney-General,
the last three natives. They were implicated in
Customs Revenue frauds, the illegal sale of Crown
lands, and other misdemeanours.
Kaae, it should also be explained, was one of the
most dissolute of many conscienceless hangers-on at
the Palace, and acted as intermediary between the
luckless Aki and the King, receiving his share of
the large sum that was demanded for the opium
licence above mentioned. The result of this movement on the part of the people was that a committee
was "sent to wait upon the King with these
demands," as Professor Alexander's report goes on
to state. "Kalakaua's troops had mostly deserted
him, and the native populace seemed quite indifferent
to his fate." The King, thus abandoned by his
guard and his people, called together the representatives of the United States, Great Britain, France,
and Portugal, all of whom were largely represented




THE GIBSON CABINET DISMISSED.


5


by citizens or subjects in the population, and offered
to relinquish the Crown if they would agree among
themselves as to some form of protectorate. This
was naturally declined, as it was hardly probable
that their respective governments would have consented to any such compact; and as they were
certainly not personally or officially empowered to
accept so grave a responsibility, nothing came of the
proposition. There was no cable communication
between the Islands and the United States, and
many weeks must have elapsed before the action
of either of the Powers mentioned could have been
ascertained.  The people had borne the gradual
abasement of the Government as long as they were
able to endure it, and they were in no frame of mind
to tolerate either delay or evasion on the part of
the King and his creatures. He was helped to a
speedy decision also by those to whom he had sought
to relegate his authority, and who very wisely advised
him to accede to the demands of the committee, and
that without delay.
The obnoxious Cabinet was therefore dismissed,
Gibson the Mormon being ordered to return to San
Francisco, narrowly escaping violence at the hands
of the people, who very rightly regarded him as
responsible for much of the trouble and loss which
the Government had sustained; and the others
speedily sank into obscurity.
The new Cabinet consisted of Godfrey Brown, an




6


INTRODUCTION.


Englishman, Minister of Foreign Affairs; L. A.
Thurston, born in the Islands of American parents;
W. L. Green, an Englishman; and C. W. Ashford, a
Canadian, Attorney-General.  This Ministry was
sworn in July ISt, 1887, and was throughout one of
the strongest and ablest that had ever been chosen.
The amendments of the Constitution which were
then secured were of the utmost importance, both in
the essentials of guaranteeing the people the possession of their rights and in bringing about conditions
of material prosperity and unprecedented progress.
The suffrage was granted to the whites, which had
been stubbornly withheld; and the Ministry, which
had been hitherto entirely subservient to the King,
was held responsible to the Legislature only, and this
body was to be elected by the people. The white
residents, who had no voice in public affairs, had
been paying some 87 per cent of the public revenues
- a political status not unlike that of the Uitlanders
in the Transvaal.
The elections which occurred the following September were fair and honest, and there was a period
of three years when what was called "the Reform
Party," the party chiefly instrumental in carrying the
revolution to a successful issue, gave the country the
purest, best, and most efficient government it had
ever known. In the meantime the King and his
adherents carried on a continual struggle to regain
their lost power and prestige; and the Palace then,




KALAKAUA'S DEBTS.


7


as it was afterwards, became the theatre of successive
conferences and conspiracies. The claim of Aki
remained unpaid, and the King was urged by the new
Cabinet to settle it before the Legislature should
assemble. This he agreed to do, and the revenues
of the Crown lands were to be set aside to satisfy
the debt. A little closer investigation proved, however, that the King's liabilities of one kind and
another amounted to more than $250,000. He was
finally induced to make an assignment for the benefit of his creditors, Aki among them, three trustees
being named. They refused to restore the money
that had been paid for the opium licence, and the
Chinese merchant brought a suit in the Supreme
Court. Here it was decided, in conformity with the
Constitution, which adhered to the old mediaeval tradition, that the King could "do no wrong." This
interpretation meant that Kalakaua "could not be
sued or held to account in any court of the kingdom,"
but the revenue in the hands of the trustees was held
liable to Aki's claim.
It should be explained that his irresponsibility in
financial affairs, quite apart from the moral corruption of his Court, had been one of the chief causes of
public discontent. It was almost impossible to get
funds from the Legislature, which he absolutely controlled before the enfranchisement of the whites, for
necessary expenses and improvements. The Islands
were almost without roads, there were few proper




8


INTRODUCTION.


wharves where vessels could receive and discharge
their cargo, and as the dredging of the harbour had
been utterly neglected, the great vessels plying between San Francisco and China were not able to dock.
These improvements have since been made under the
new Republic.
In i88I the King, accompanied by the late Colonel
C. H. Judd as chamberlain, and by Mr. W. N.
Armstrong as Commissioner of Immigration, made
a tour round the world. During this tour the King
became inspired with an ambition to unite Polynesia
in an autocracy, inspired by the example of the
King of Siam, whose court and kingdom he found
to be vastly to his liking. He displayed the unreasoning greed of a child in his envy of the rich
insignia, the formality and ceremony, and above all
the costly armaments of European monarchs. In
Austria it was a field battery that tempted him, a
caprice that cost the Government $2I,000, the guns
being of little use in the Islands, which are crossed
by mountain ridges that in many places can be
traversed only by steep and tortuous bridle paths.
King Kalakaua's return, October 29th, I881, was
made an occasion of great public rejoicing, the cost
of which was also defrayed by the people. At the
time of his election to the throne there had been
no special ceremony beyond taking the oath of
office as prescribed by the Hawaiian law.  After
his return from his long journey, and nine years




THE KING'S EXTRAVAGANCE.


9


after his inauguration, he decided to be formally
crowned, the ceremony taking place in a pavilion
erected in the grounds of the Palace, nearly all the
European Powers being represented. The coronets,
one for himself, and one for the Queen, Kapiolani,
were purchased in England at the cost of $Io,ooonot an exorbitant price certainly, but forming an
item in a bill of expense which had already reached
an enormous total. The King, as has been said, was
not of the ancient and honoured lineage of the Kamehamehas, and had no sympathy from Hawaiians of
high rank like Queen Emma, Ruth Keelikolani, and
Mrs. Bernice Pauahi Bishop. The latter was a direct
heir to the throne, but declined the difficult office,
preferring the retirement of private life. She left
the bulk of her great fortune to endow schools
for her people. All these " chiefesses " of high rank
absented themselves from the foolish coronation,
which, far from being impressive, had many of the
characteristics of an opdra bouffe ceremonial.
The building of the Palace was another enormous
extravagance, and so far as its cost is concerned
remains a mystery to this day. The contract was
not put out to tender in the customary manner,
but the work was given for private reasons to
architects and builders whom the King wished to
favour. There were no requisitions upon the Treasury, and bills were paid by the King without
any Ministerial intervention.  In addition to all




IO


INTRODUCTION.


this folly, which kept the country impoverished, and
discouraged capitalists from engaging in profitable
enterprises which might have developed its rich
resources, large sums were squandered in barbaric
funerals whenever a chief or chiefess died.  The
natives came to the capital from the surrounding
islands, and four weeks of feasting and lamentation
frequently ensued before the corpse was finally consigned to the earth. These funerals, the expense of
which was paid from the State Treasury, cost frequently from $50,ooo to $6o,ooo.
In I890, having failed in negotiating a loan of
$Io,ooo,ooo with which to equip a standing army (an
attempt that had been made unsuccessfully before),
the King was urged by the reactionary party to call
a revolutionary convention, by which a new Constitution should be framed, withdrawing the franchise
from what was termed "the foreign element." All
that resulted from this movement was the enactment
of certain amendments; and, as Professor Alexander
states, the most important of these was one "lowering the property qualification of electors for nobles "
- the latter constituting the highest legislative
body.
The King, worn out with incessant political turmoil
and by the irregular life he had led for many years,
accompanied Admiral George Brown to San Francisco
in his flagship the Charleston, in November, I890.
He was hospitably received and entertained; but his




DEATH OF KALAKAUA.


I I


health continued to fail, and he died January 20th,
I891, in the Palace Hotel.
Admiral Brown was commissioned by the United
States to take the body back to Honolulu, and the
Queen requested him to assume entire charge of
the funeral ceremonies, which he succeeded in curtailing to a fortnight. The body lay in state for
two weeks, and was then placed in the royal vault.
As a mark of her appreciation of his services the
royal widow presented the American officer with
the King's ring, and a native ceremonial, called "the
hookupu," was held at the dock in his honour on
the day that the Charleston sailed for San Francisco;
it consisted in the presentation of gifts of fruit, fowls,
pigs, calabashes, fine tapa, and many rare curios
of native workmanship.  The offerings were so
numerous that the ship was almost fully provisioned
for her voyage, and many of the presents had to
be left behind.
Of the King, personally, Professor Alexander, who
was an unsparing though just critic, has written:
"In spite of his great faults as a ruler and as a
man, he had been uniformly kind and courteous in
private life, and there was sincere grief in Honolulu
when the news of his death arrived." This estimate
is corroborated by others; and there were few who
were brought into close contact with him who were
not impressed by his amiability and sweetness of
manner.   His most serious defect was, without




12


INTRODUCTION.


doubt, lack of will; and this made him unable to
resist temptation, and an easy prey to the hordes
of adventurers and parasites that gathered about
him and that had access to the Palace at all times.
In this concise outline of events the heritage of
political turmoil and social unrest to which Queen
Liliuokalani succeeded will be easily perceived. To
comprehend fully the events that followed, however,
it will be necessary to go back somewhat. The
Hawaiian law of royal succession was peculiar.
The King was empowered to name the heir-apparent,
who was usually his son or adopted son. Failing
this precaution on the part of the King, the Legislature was authorised to elect a successor. Lunalilo,
who was the immediate predecessor of Kalakaua, was
chosen in this manner, being the chief of the highest
rank among the native Hawaiians. He died without
heirs and without naming an heir-apparent.
The real choice of the people was the beautiful and
accomplished Queen Emma, the widow of Kamehameha V., the adopted daughter of Dr. Rooke, an
English physician. She had been carefully trained
and educated for the high position she was destined
to occupy. She was married June g9th, I856, and a
son was born two years later, whose untimely death
in 1862 was considered a national calamity.
Queen Emma, however, was a staunch adherent
of the English Church, and there was reason to believe
that she would have at least advocated, if she could




QUEEN LILIUOKALANI.


T3


not have accomplished, the establishment of a state
religion, which the people, except those personally
interested in the matter, were prepared to resist.
Furthermore, it was known that she would oppose
the reciprocity treaty with the United States which
was enacted in 1876, and by which the temporary
cession of Pearl Harbour as a coaling station for
its men-of-war was effected.  In return for this concession, Hawaiian sugar, the principal export, was
to be admitted into the United States free of duty.
It was always believed that the election of King
Kalakaua was compassed by bribery, and the announcement of the result was followed by a riot,
in which the Court House was attacked by a mob,
and several of Kalakaua's partisans in the Legislature
were killed and others forced to flee for their lives.
Marines were landed from the U.S.S. Tuscarora
and the Portsmouth, and from  H. B. M. corvette
Tenedos. The latter encamped in the Queen's Gardens, guarding the Palace and barracks, and arresting a number of the rioters.  History, it will be
seen, a decade later repeated itself, although in the
case of Kalakaua it was never charged that he was
placed upon the throne by the connivance of British
and American men-of-war. But for their assistance,
however, he would not have ascended the throne.
King Kalakaua had no heir, and he accordingly
named his sister Liliuokalani as heir-apparent.  She
had an intense jealousy of the whites, and at the




14


INTRODUCTION.


time of the adoption of the Constitution of I887
was in England in attendance upon Queen Kapiolani,
who had gone to London to be present at the Golden
Jubilee of Queen Victoria.
When she learned what concessions had been
made to the men whom she regarded as aliens and
interlopers, her rage knew no bounds, and it is not
too much to assume, judging from subsequent events,
that she never for one moment relinquished the
determination to wrest from them the privileges they
had secured and to restore them to their former status.
It was of no consequence that the State Treasury
was almost entirely dependent upon the taxes of
which they paid so large a part, and that the colleges,
the public-school system, the laws, the entire judiciary
- all that the country possessed that entitled it to a
place among civilised people -were wholly due to
their efforts and support. Her attitude was perfectly
well known to a few, but public confidence was restored when she took the oath to maintain the Constitution as it stood, which she did on the day that
the King's body arrived in Honolulu.
She gave, however, on that day, January 29th, I891,
an intimation of the spirit which she had concealed
with true diplomatic reserve. Mr. S. M. Damon,
Minister of Finance under the Republic, and Envoy
from Hawaii to the Diamond Jubilee, in an interview remarked, " What was needed was a responsible
Ministry." She discouraged any discussion of the




A STRUGGLE FOR SUPREMACY.


15


matter, and answered curtly and significantly, "My
Ministry shall be responsible to me " -a bold usurpation of authority that would not be tolerated in any
constitutional monarchy in Europe.
The Queen's niece, the young Princess Kaiulani,
then in England, was named as heir-apparent.
The first conflict came at once over a constitutional
question, with the Queen and her supporters arrayed
on one side and the Cabinet on the other. The latter
claimed that the Legislature alone had authority to
remove them from office, the Queen claiming that she
had a right to choose her own Ministry. An appeal
was made to the Supreme Court, and the question was
decided in favour of the Queen. She thus scored the
first victory; and being in some particulars an astute
though short-sighted woman, did not fail to follow
up the advantage she had temporarily gained. She
not only had a Ministry of her own selection, but she
made their nomination subject to conditions by which
she hoped to control them.
As a further intimation of an approaching crisis,
the Queen asked of this Cabinet the/ appointment of
C. B. Wilson as Chief Marshal of the Islands - a
measure that was expected to bear fruit later, when
she might require the backing of an armed force.
It was the old story of the struggle for supremacy,
the conflict of the people for their rights under the
Constitution, and of the Queen for autocratic and
unlawful prerogatives. There were the usual plots




INTRODUCTION.


and counter-plots, vigilance on the part of the
progressive element to keep pace with and circumvent the intrigues of the royal party, and attempts
at resistance instigated by the Queen.
The Bill to legalise the sale of opium in the Islands,
another to establish a national lottery, two schemes
never relinquished by King Kalakaua during the latter
years of his reign, were revived by the Queen and her
party. And this, with the determination to abrogate
the Constitution which she had sworn to support,
to promulgate a new one in which the whites should
be disfranchised, were the main issues of her brief
rule. She went to the throne with the best wishes
of her people, who hoped that the troubles which had
distracted the country for twenty years were to
cease.  Had Liliuokalani been content with the
authority of the sovereign of the British Empire she
never would have been molested, and not only
might have enjoyed a reign of peace and prosperity, but have been a true benefactor to her country and her people. It was a great opportunity,
which, like most such opportunities neglected, will
never return.
It is not necessary to review the steps which led
to the crisis of January i4th, 1893, the final culmination of years of misrule, held in abeyance only when
a responsible Ministry could be secured and kept in
office. The people at last were forced to acknowledge that nothing more could be hoped for from




A CRISIS OF JANUARY, I893.


the monarchy. It brought them face to face with
the only possible alternative: the establishment of a
republic, with ultimate annexation to the United
States; or the abandonment of the country, its
relapse into barbarism, or its forcible cession to
Japan or to some European power.
The story of the Queen's last decisive act is briefly
told. From June 1892 until January 1893 a contest was waged between the Queen and the Legislature, the former claiming the right of personal choice
of Cabinet officers; the latter contending that the
Cabinet should represent a majority of the Legislature. Three of the Queen's Cabinets were voted out
in quick succession. The Queen then, apparently
submitting, appointed a Cabinet representing the
Legislature; but immediately entered into a conspiracy with persons seeking an opium licence law
and a lottery franchise, she agreeing to assist these
measures in return for their help in overthrowing
the Constitution and establishing a new one, disfranchising the whites and giving the Queen arbitrary powers. In pursuance of this agreement the
Cabinet was voted out, the opium and lottery bills
passed and signed by the Queen, a new Cabinet, supposed to be subservient to the Queen, appointed, and
the Legislature prorogued.
A deputation of the best and most intelligent
women in the Islands waited upon her before she
signed the Bill, and besought her not to take a step
2




18


INTRODUCTION.


that must be fatal to the morals and the real prosperity of the country; but their prayers were of no
avail.
On the morning of January I4th it became known
that the Queen had arranged to promulgate the
Constitution that day. She was admonished, but
refused to alter her purpose, and the Honolulu
Chamber of Commerce was informed of what was
about to happen. A message was also sent to the
late Captain G. C. Wiltse, in command of the U. S. S.
Boston, which was then in harbour, having returned
unexpectedly from Hilo, where the vessel had gone
for target practice. The Legislature was prorogued
at noon with unusual pomp and ceremony. The
anti-lottery members and the white residents were
absent.  Those present, with forty members of a
royalist society called the Hui Kalaiaina, marched
to the Palace, one of the latter carrying a flat
package, suspended from his breast by ribbons.
This was a new Constitution. The procession proceeded to the Throne Room, the household troops
being drawn up in line from the west gate to the
entrance of the Palace, armed and wearing their
cartridge belts. Amongst the audience in the Throne
Room were some of the members of the Diplomatic
Corps, Chief Justice Judd, and the late Justice
Bickerton of the Supreme Court.
In the meantime the Queen was closeted in the
Blue Room of the Palace with her refractory Cabinet.




THE QUEEN AND HER CABINET.


I9


She was endeavouring to force them to sign the
document which was to undo all that had been accomplished for the cause of justice and good government.
They by this time had become thoroughly alarmed at
the storm of public disapproval which they had roused.
The Queen was in a measure justified when she
upbraided them with " having led her to the brink of
a precipice and then abandoning her to take the leap
alone." She was told by her Minister of Foreign
Affairs that her attempt to abrogate the Constitution was a revolutionary act, while the AttorneyGeneral excused himself and his coadjutors on the
plea that they had not read the document. The
Queen is then said to have exclaimed, "How
dare you say that when you have had it in your
possession for a month!"  She asked for their
resignation, which they refused; and when she
threatened to announce their refusal to the crowd
of sympathisers which by this time had surrounded
the Palace, three of them made their escape, one
remaining in order to prevent the Queen from
proclaiming the Constitution from the Palace steps
without their sanction, and upon the plea that the
Ministry and the Supreme Court refused to aid her
in what she had undertaken.
The Attorney-General called a conference of four
leading citizens, representing the Queen and the
people respectively, and asked for instructions. The
Ministers were urged not to resign, and in the midst




20


INTRODUCTION.


of the discussion a message from the Queen arrived,
commanding the Attorney-General to return to the
Palace.  The absconding Ministers received like
orders. But all refused to obey, on the ground that
their lives were in danger.
They were presently joined by the Minister of
Foreign Affairs, who had remained behind.
The result was, after due consideration, that the
Ministers were induced to concur in issuing a
proclamation declaring the Queen in revolution and
the throne vacant.
As on a former occasion, when aid was required
at the time of the election of her brother King
Kalakaua, the American Minister was notified of the
Queen's conduct, and the assistance of United States
troops was requested "to maintain order and support
the Government."
It finally became necessary to organise a committee of public safety. A call was issued for a mass
meeting, which was fixed for the evening of Monday, January I6th, and which was attended by a large
audience, and was addressed by representatives of
the American, English, and German residents, and
the best of the native element.
The Queen's unlawful acts were unsparingly
reviewed, and the outcome of the meeting was the
appointment of a committee of thirteen, composed of
representative men. A proclamation was issued, in
which it was set forth that, five uprisings and con



THE PROVISIONAL GOVERNMENT.


21


spiracies having occurred within five years and seven
months, it had become necessary to adopt radical
measures "for the preservation of the public credit,
already seriously damaged abroad, and to avert the
final ruin of a financial condition already overstrained." It was pointed out that further forbearance would be useless; that an immediate guarantee
for the protection of life, liberty, and property was
imperative; otherwise, conditions already almost
intolerable would grow steadily worse.
A Provisional Government was organised, to consist of an executive committee of four members,
with Judge Sandford B. Dole, Associate Justice of
the Supreme Court, as its head. This was supplemented by a strong Advisory Council. The integrity,
patriotism, and statesmanship of Judge Dole were
beyond question; not even the Queen herself could
suspect the motives of a man who was, and still is,
one of the wisest and most devoted friends her
people have ever had. A committee of five men
was also chosen and dispatched to Washington to ask
for annexation to the United States. The proposition was favourably considered by President Harrison,
who was just retiring from office; but it was subsequently rejected by President Cleveland. Not only
was the treaty rejected, but, after a so-called inquiry
made by a commissioner, Mr. James H. Blount, who
was dispatched to the Islands in February, Mr.
Cleveland devised a Quixotic scheme of reparation,




22


INTRODUCTION.


which was to effect the Queen's restoration, with
certain other compensations for what she claimed to
have suffered through the interference of the United
States authorities.  The evidence of Mr. Blount,
when it was finally submitted to Congress and carefully analysed, proved to be ex-parte testimony of
the most pronounced type. Undue importance was
given to statements made by persons, tools of the
Queen, who proved to be wholly untrustworthy; while
many who could have given, and were entitled to
give, important evidence were shown very scant
courtesy or set aside altogether.
Mr. Albert S. Willis, who succeeded Mr. Stevens
as United States Minister, arrived in Honolulu on
November 4th, I893, with instructions to restore
Liliuokalani, at the same time bringing letters of
extreme cordiality and professed friendliness to the
President of the Provisional Government. There is
every reason to believe that these orders were to be
carried out, peaceably if possible, by force if necessary, and in the latter case it would have meant
landing American marines from the warships in
the harbour to fire upon the American residents of
Honolulu.
The tenor of the instructions given Mr. Willis
was not learned until twelve days later, and in the
meantime he had received the most cordial welcome, both from the citizens and from the heads of
the Government. An incredible cablegram, which




MR. WILLIS' MISSION.


23


had been received vid London, dated November 2nd,
brought by a steamer from New Zealand, stated that
the President "was drafting a message to Congress
in favour of restoring the monarchy." This could
not be believed, until all doubt was dispelled by
the arrival of the U.S.S. revenue cutter Corwin
from San Francisco a little later with decisive
instructions.
In the interval Mr. Willis was negotiating with the
Queen.   One condition exacted by Mr. Cleveland
was full amnesty for all who had taken part in the
revolution. An unforeseen obstacle was encountered,
which delayed decisive action on the part of Mr.
Willis, and this was the prompt and stubborn
refusal of the Queen to grant amnesty, and her
savage demand that those chiefly instrumental in
the organisation of the Provisional Government
should be beheaded. Mr. Willis with great wisdom and discretion perceived that restoration was
impossible without great resistance and probable
bloodshed. He notified the Secretary of State, the
late Walter Q. Gresham, and waited further orders.
Business was entirely suspended, the Government
building was strongly barricaded and fortified, and
men and even women held themselves in readiness to defend the Provisional Government to the
uttermost.
The course which Mr. Cleveland had pursued was
extremely unpopular in the United States. By this




24


INTRODUCTION.


time the flimsy pretext that the revolution had been
compassed by the connivance of the United States
Minister, Mr. Stevens, backed up by the marines
from the U. S. S. Boston, was known to be false; and
an attempt to restore a corrupt and incapable
monarchy by the Chief Executive of a nation pledged
to the support and maintenance of democracy raised
such a storm of indignation that the project had
to be abandoned. Even the best representatives of
his own party condemned the President unsparingly;
and the Press, even that faction which bitterly
opposed annexation, grudgingly acknowledged that
his efforts in the direction of arbitrator had been
carried to an extreme.
The status quo having been finally restored, the
Provisional Government began at once to prepare
for the organisation of a republic. A constitutional
convention was called, to be held in Honolulu. It
met in the Government building on the morning
of May 30th, all the members of the Diplomatic
Corps except Mr. Willis being present, with the
officers of the American and English ships. The
test required of electors in voting for delegates
to the convention was the oath of fealty to the
Government-the usual test in all civilised governments.   The deliberations of convention were
conservative and moderate, and the Republic was
finally proclaimed July 4th with great public
rejoicings.




A REPUBLIC ESTABLISHED.


25


The Hon. S. B. Dole was chosen President, with
an able and conservative Ministry. The Republic,
thus established, proceeded at once upon the prosecution of necessary public works.  Roads were
built, a water front constructed at which ships
might load and unload their cargoes, and, most
important of all, the harbour was dredged, so that
China steamers might dock, instead of discharging
their cargo and passengers by lighters.  Public
lands were surveyed and placed upon the market,
with special advantages given the native Hawaiians
that would enable them to buy and own their homes
at a low rate and on the easiest possible terms -a
privilege they had never had when these lands were
held by the Crown.
No restraint whatever was placed upon the Queen.
She came and went at will, residing at her town
house, Washington Villa.  The attitude of Mr.
Cleveland toward the sister Republic all this time
was one of intense disfavour. He refused to recognise it as long as he could do so without absolute
hostility, and finally carried his animosity to the
extreme point of withdrawing the U. S. S. Philadelphia
from the Honolulu harbour early in September, and in
spite of the emphatic warnings of Admiral Walker,
then in command of the Pacific Squadron.
Even the nominal support of Mr. Cleveland being
thus entirely withdrawn, the ex-Queen secretly returned to her old methods. Plots were set on foot;




26


INTRODUCTION.


she sacrificed a great part of her private fortune
in paying accomplices and in the purchase of arms
and ammunition. A portion of these equipments
was subsequently found carefully hidden in various
places, and there were unearthed upon her own
premises eleven pistols, thirteen Springfield rifles,
twenty-one Manchester rifles, thirty-eight full belts
of cartridges, one thousand loose cartridges, and
twenty-one dynamite bombs.
Early in the year i895 secret meetings of the
natives were held in various quarters of Honolulu,
and there were other evidences that rebellion was on
foot. On the afternoon of Sunday, January 5th, the
police were informed that natives were collecting in
a house near Diamond Head, some miles beyond the
city. A search warrant was issued, and as the officers
approached the house they were fired upon by those
inside. Four Hawaiian born foreigners - that is, men
of American ancestry, but born in the Islands -who
lived near by, hearing the firing, seized their guns,
and went to the aid of the police. One of the
number, Charles L. Carter, a young lawyer and a
member of the commission which had been dispatched to Washington, fell mortally wounded, surviving only a few   hours.  It was immediately
realised that this was the beginning of a serious
uprising, and on the following day twelve hundred
troops were under arms, and martial law was
declared. Within two weeks the rebel leaders, who




THE REVOLUTION OF I895.


27


had been driven into the mountains, were captured,
and the rebellion suppressed, but not until after a
number of the natives had been killed.
The death of Charles Carter, and what has been
termed "the anarchists' plan of attack, which, if
carried out, must have resulted in the indiscriminate
death of women and children," produced the greatest
indignation. In addition to the arms and bombs
found upon the ex-Queen's premises was the draft
of a new Constitution, with commissions for the
officials of her projected Government.  She was
arrested and confined in her old apartments in the
Palace with proper attendants, and given the freedom
of the gardens.
The trial of the conspirators was fixed for January
I7th, I895. It continued for thirty-six days. The
ringleaders were sentenced to pay heavy fines and
serve long terms of imprisonment. Liliuokalani was
sentenced to five years' imprisonment, with $5,ooo
fine, shortly afterwards remitted.  She was finally
fully pardoned, having signed a formal letter of
abdication on January 24th, I895.
The two years following upon the suppression of
this final attempt to overthrow the Republic were
years of uninterrupted prosperity. The Government
strengthened itself and its position materially, and
won the entire confidence of the best element in the
Islands, including many of the more intelligent and
thrifty of the natives. In the meantime the desire




28


INTRODUCTION.


for annexation to the United States has been paramount, and has never been relinquished for one
moment.   The Presidential Election of I896 was
anticipated with the greatest anxiety, and the safe
return of Mr. McKinley in November was considered
a blessing to Hawaii, as it was a matter of congratulation throughout the whole civilised world wherever
unimpeached national credit and honour are of value.
The views of the President-Elect were well known.
The courage and determination of President Dole,
his firm and dignified resistance to gross injustice;
the proof of capacity for self-government which the
Government had furnished in its strengthened credit,
the steady increase of its revenues, and the careful
expenditure of these revenues; the unanimity and
clemency it had exercised towards cruel and relentless enemies, had intensified the sympathy of its
friends in the United States, increased their number,
and refuted the baseless charges of American opponents as to the delay of the older Republic in the
matter of annexation. While it has involved cruel
suspense and certain dangers to the weaker Government, it has been in the end the path of wisdom.
In this very delay the theory that the United States
has been prompted in its interference by an unlawful
desire to seize the possessions of a weaker people,
not able to defend itself against the aggressions of
a stronger power, has been absolutely disproved.
In the five years of careful investigation, in the




PRESIDENT McKINLEY'S PROCLAMATION. 29


protracted discussion, both pro and con, the whole
question has been thoroughly "threshed out," to use
the expressive English phrase.
The nineteenth-century policy of territorial expansion is, and has been, strongly opposed, and
rightly; but as some one has said, there comes,
finally, with every people a crisis growing out of its
duty to weaker nations beyond its borders, in which
traditions must be relinquished and its accepted
policy reversed.  In its attitude towards Hawaii
this crisis has arrived with the Government of the
United States.  As Captain Mahan, the highest
authority that can be quoted, has said, "The United
States finds herself compelled to make a decision;
whether we wish to or no, we must make the
decision."
In the annual message of President McKinley to
Congress, upon its assembly in December I897, he
reiterated the recommendations which accompanied
an annexation treaty negotiated in June I897,
and which was transmitted to the Senate for confirmation. In this treaty the cession of the Islands
to the United States in I851 of Kamehameha III.
was recalled, such a course being recommended by
the King at the time as the only means of putting
an end to the familiar difficulties which even then
threatened the destruction of the country; the reciprocity treaties of I875 and 1884 were noted; the
invitation of Germany and Great Britain to unite in




30


INTRODUCTION.


a protectorate and the refusal of the United States
on the ground that the relations of Hawaii with the
United States were sufficient for its protection; and
what was termed "the continuous policy of exclusion" from 1820 to I893 of all foreign influence save
that of the United States was also pointed out. It
was shown that the ultimate negotiation of an annexation treaty was inevitable, and under such circumstances "a consummation, not a change." The
organic and administrative details were to be left to
the judgment of Congress, and the document closed
with an expression of the belief that the duty of
the United States would be performed with "the
largest regard for the interests of this rich insular
domain, and for the welfare of the inhabitants
thereof."
This, in brief, is the history of the relations
of the two countries within the past two decades.
All that Hawaii possesses of civilisation, of religion, of law, and of education is of purely American
origin.
Whatever may be the ultimate decision of Congress
(which may or may not be known before this is
printed), to those who are familiar with Hawaii, with
the characteristics of the natives, decimated and
corrupted as they have been by disease, by the vices
which contact with civilisation has engendered, their
improvidence and inability to govern, there are but
three alternatives - the anarchy of chronic revolution,




AN UNCERTAIN FUTURE.             31
the abandonment of the Islands by Europeans and
Americans, or their permanent absorption by some
stronger and stable power. Whether this is destined
to be Japan, England, or the United States time and
legislation will decide.
M. H. K.
LONDON, December 1897.








HAWAII AND A REVOLUTION.


CHAPTER I.
THE FIRST IMPULSE.
IN I892, in the course of a conversation with a
friend who had recently returned from the
Hawaiian Islands, it was remarked that a revolution,
with a demand for annexation to the United States,
was impending. At the time of his visit there was
apparent tranquillity; but those who were capable of
forecasting the future, basing their prophc:ies upon
past history, were of the opinion that the crisis might
come at any moment. The people might go to bed
at night, and in the morning wake to confront revolution and anarchy and find themselves without a
government.
So far as it was destined to influence my personal
movements within the four years that followed, the
speech was a momentous one. It meant thousands
of miles of travel by land and sea, hours and days


33


3




34


THE FIRST IMPULSE.


[Ch. I.


and weeks of arduous and responsible toil, conferences with personages in exalted places, interviews
with heads of governments, and, mingled with these
rapid changes of time and place, harrowing anxiety
and racking and protracted physical pain. It will be
impossible to write of it impersonally, so indulgence
must be craved for the recurrence of the personal
pronoun.
With the natural instinct of a " newspaper woman"
— which is the preferred American substitute for the
more polite English term " ladyjournalist " - I was immediately inspired with an ardent desire to be present
when the crisis came. This was not the gratification
of a nature disposed to bloodshed and violence, but
the realisation of the professional opportunity to be
the one special correspondent in the field. With this
was a more creditable desire to witness the actual
making of history, the evolution of a people from a
semi-barbarous monarchy to a state of intelligent and
rational self-government.
My friend took his leave, and forgot all about his
speech. For more than a year I brooded over it, and
never ceased to plan and devise ways and means of
carrying my plans into effect. To be there prior to
prospective revolution, and so able to give an accurate
rdsumd of the causes which led to it, or, better still,
at the time, became the only thing in life worth
living for.  It might have seemed an altogether
hopeless ambition to a woman of very limited




I892.]


A NEWSPAPER MANAGER.


35


means and of uncertain health, but it was never
relinquished.
Finally, a gentleman of great wealth, of reputed
public spirit and enterprise, assumed control of the
paper upon whose staff I had been employed for
some years, and in him I believed I had found a
sympathising friend and a congenial spirit.
One afternoon early in September 1892 I plucked
up courage and invaded his private office, resolving
to make a confession of my astonishing project,
feeling almost confident of his approval. It was a
luxurious office, a contrast to the sooty den to which
he had relegated me shortly after taking possession.
He did not ask me to be seated - a courtesy which
was never forgotten by his elders and his betters in
the staff —and, without apology, he interrupted the
interview from time to time to carry on a conversation
over the telephone with the members of his household some miles away.
His incivility was in a measure pardonable; and
although the accurate account of it is necessary to
the completeness of this record, I do not bear him
the slightest grudge on that account. It was apparently a most foolish proposition - especially to one
who was not a profound student of history. There
was not the slightest breath of rumour at that time
which could indicate any disturbance of Hawaiian
political affairs. A little mild disturbance, half riot,
half insurrection-well, yes, that would be as natural




36


THE FIRST IMPULSE.


[Ch. I.


as the succession of epidemics to which ordinary
childhood is subject; but anything graver than this -
it was absurd!
There dwells in the soul of every man living - and
from this category not one is exempted -a fixed
belief, confessed or unacknowledged, that political
problems are wholly beyond the comprehension of
the feminine intelligence. It is not in the least worth
one's while to combat this inherent and inherited
prejudice.  All that the feminine intelligence can
do is to show itself capable of grappling with political
questions and situations, and it will then be rewarded
with a special verdict that one exceptional success
simply proves the rule of unalterable incapacity.
My chimerical scheme was hesitatingly unfolded.
I was pretty well read in Hawaiian history by this
time, and, in order to prove the correctness of my
theories, dates, facts, and names were glibly rattled
off- the latter subject to painfully acquired amendment afterwards, when the correct pronunciation was
acquired.
It was a hot afternoon, as hot as only a September
afternoon in Chicago can be, with a burning sirocco
sweeping across the prairies from the west, bringing
with it the stench of slaughter-houses and porkpacking establishments - a little addition which millionaire pork-packers are permitted to contribute to
the public discomfort.
The new man was warm and tired; he was




A REBUFF.


37


nervously irritable; and, moreover, he was distraught
with the pains and perplexities of an amateur editor
who has a lot to suffer as he acquires his experience.
He looked at me coldly through his spectacles;
upon his sharply cut features and the tightly compressed lips there was an expression of justifiable
weariness.  He looked at me, and then remarked,
with an effort to be satirical:
" Do you think anybody is interested in Hawaiian
politics?"
" But it is not a question of Hawaiian politics," I
protested; "it is a matter of international politics."
And as I write these words a woman's spiteful sense
of triumph comes over me when I think how time
obligingly verified that rash assertion.
The interview was not prolonged.   It became
evident that my speedy withdrawal was urgently
desired, and the unspoken wish was respected.
As I closed the door, I said with fervent relief:
" Thank Heaven, you are only the publisher; you
are not the editor, and there still remains the court
of final appeal."
This rebuff was only an encouragement to new
and more determined effort. All the data that could
be obtained were collected, and with them some forty
letters of introduction, twenty of these from a relative
then in command of the Pacific squadron, RearAdmiral Brown, who had been a warm friend of
the Hawaiian sovereigns and their people. These




38


THE FIRST IMPULSE.


[Ch. I.


included letters to the Queen's Chamberlain, for the
monarchy, which, though even then cracking in
places and peeling off in spots, was still intact; the
chief lady-in-waiting, a most charming and cultured
Hawaiian woman; the Chief Justice and Mrs. Judd,
one of the historical families of Honolulu; with others
to the American Minister, Mr. Stevens, the American
Consul, and men of equal consequence and social
position.
Successful newspaper work may have been accomplished once by a system of spying and eavesdropping and backstairs espionage; but all astute
editors and correspondents know nowadays that,
quite apart from personal qualities of endurance and
perseverance, with a greater or less ability to write
grammatically, it has become almost a question of
credentials and introductions. Twenty facts of value
are to be obtained at an official dinner-table, where
one is picked up regularly or irregularly in the
highways and byways, and the continuance and
worth of future information worthy the name depends upon the manner in which official confidence
is abused or respected.  This will be considered
heretical by those who advocate other and more
enterprising methods; but it is one that has been
tested, and has been found to serve extremely well.
The collection of letters was a sort of treasure,
counted over with something of miserly satisfaction,
and read and re-read some scores of times. With




I892.]


FEMININE DIPLOMACY.


39


all their undeserved reputation for cowardice and
distrust of adventure, women after all have ten times
the daring and resolution of men; and if the generality of them only knew how safe are the high roads
and even the uninhabited places of the world, and
how purely imaginary are the dangers that seem
to threaten when one leaves the beaten track, there
would be a hundred explorers like Mrs. Bishop and
Miss Kingsley where there is one to-day.
I had learned wisdom. Masculine prudence did
not look kindly upon my views. Denial should not be
rashly and carelessly risked again.  Columbus had
appealed to kings and courtiers, only to be repulsed
with indifference and scorn.  It was the Castilian
Queen, alone, who listened, believed, and pledged her
jewels to enable him to sail away into Nowhere - as
all the world of that age confidently believed.
The Isabella of my expedition was my friend
Mrs. N —, the wife of the managing editor of my
newspaper, to whom I already owed encouragement,
appreciation, promotion, and kindnesses innumerable.
She was a woman of liberal education, a fine linguist,
she had lived much abroad, and her mind had
been liberalised by contact with the world.  As is
inevitable with such women, she had great influence
with her husband, who relied much upon her judgment, and respected her opinion, and always found
it profitable.
The matter was discussed with her over a tete-d-tete




40


THE FIRST IMPULSE.


[Ch. I.


supper at her house one dreary November night.
The letters of introduction were produced, and all
that it meant for the newspaper and its correspondent
she fully and immediately realised. She did not ask
chillingly, "Do you think people are interested in
Hawaiian politics?" but she said, " I believe it is an
admirable plan, and that it will be well worth while."
Thus far we were able to discuss and reach conclusions with the dignity and self-respect of rational
human beings. We might contrive to rise superior
to conditions of possible danger, inevitable discomfort,
fatigue, and disappointment; but we could not sweep
away by one bold stroke, with all our audacity, the
inevitable limitations of sex. We both knew that,
just, generous, and kind as her husband was, the
chances were that if we approached him singly,
consecutively, or even in pairs, he too might fail to
perceive the practicableness of our designs.
We were forced to resort to schemes and conspiracies, to the exercise of so-called "tact," as usual
when women must deal with men in matters a little
out of the common, and attempt to demonstrate
the performance of the impossible. We sat in silence
for a moment, and then she remarked thoughtfully:
"I will talk to Mr. N -  about it to-morrow, and
then you can see him the next day." This, then,
was the plan of attack when we parted, I setting
out to my home across the city in the teeth of a
driving storm, and we carried it out to the letter.




I892.]


SUCCESS.


4i


She did talk to him on Monday, and I saw him
on Tuesday. As should always happen after such
conferences between a liberal-minded husband and a
persuasive, intelligent wife, I found him, not convinced,
but mollified; hesitating, but open to conviction.
" I feel so certain that it means everything for me
professionally, that I am willing to bear my own
expense to Honolulu, and return, if you will let me
go," I said.
He gazed meditatively out of the window, suppressed a yawn, and then said, "Well, I suppose
you may as well go."
I walked out of his office without delay, fearing
that he might reconsider his decision. My heart was
swelling with pride and triumph- a frame of mind
that, in the uncertainty of human affairs and the
vanity of human ambition, I might have known could
not endure.




CHAPTER II.


DISAPPOINTMENTS AND DELAYS.
THE staff correspondent of a newspaper is like a
soldier- always under marching orders. The
necessity of being in readiness induces one of two
conditions: he, or she, has always at hand a stock of
serviceable clothing; or the supply is reduced to a
minimum, and this remnant so dilapidated that
nothing can make it worse.
Thanks to very thorough domestic training in early
girlhood, which included a mastery of the art of
patching, darning, and mending, my belongings
were ready to be packed on short notice. Only
three gowns were required - the orthodox black silk
for solemn ceremonials, a white satin to be worn
when I should make my bow at court, and a flannel
dressing-gown for the steamer.
Shopping has always been to me a purgatorial
penance, and I have learned that its torments may be
appreciably mitigated by deciding in the privacy of
one's chamber just what is required, the colour and
fabric, and what it ought to cost. These are requi42




I892.]


A FAREWELL DINNER.


43


sites that any one with ordinary common sense ought
to decide in a few minutes, and it will be found to
save an immense deal of time and of nervous wear
and tear. The purchases were made within an hour,
and in the hands of the dressmaker without delay.
Four days later the gowns were finished, quite splendid, well-fitting, and altogether satisfactory-an
example of Chicago skill and dispatch. They were
accompanied, when they were sent home, by a bill
as long as the train of the court dress.
There was a farewell dinner  a festal occasion at
which a dozen friends assisted -a delightful company of artists and journalists. Toasts were drunk,
speeches were made, and the ices came in with
a tiny American flag in each pink and yellow
mould —a delicate reminder that this protecting
aegis was soon to be left behind, and life, liberty,
and the pursuit of happiness to be sought and found
under quite a different arrangement of colours and
symbols.
On Saturday, December Ioth, the final arrangements were made. I went to the newspaper office
for the last official instructions. There I was given
my railway tickets, the ticket for my berth in the
Pullman, a telegram reserving a state room on the
Australia of the Oceanic steamship line, with another
from my cousin, who was then at the Mare Island
Navy Yard, and to whom I was asked to wire the
exact time of my arrival in Oakland. A series of




44    DISAPPOINTMENTS AND DELAYS. [Ch. II.


entertainments had been arranged during the brief
stop I was to make in San Francisco to rest from
the fatigue of the long overland journey.
Several invitations had come for Sunday; but
wishing to spend the day with Mr. and Mrs. C-,
of whose household I had been a member for two
years, I declined them all. Friends called, and
made their farewells during the afternoon; and at
six o'clock I went to my room to change my gown,
preparatory to paying the one visit I felt could
not be neglected, upon the aged mother of a dear
friend.
We left the house together, Mr. and Mrs. C
and myself. We took a horse-car, and at the corner
of Thirty-First Street I left them to catch a crosstown car, which took me almost to the door of my
friend's house. Even in the rehabilitated state of
the city since the fire there are many things neglected and left undone by the municipality of Chicago
that would shock the conservative ideas of Europe.
Its side-walks in the outlying streets are one of these
evils, and one from which I was destined to suffer,
probably for the remainder of my life.
At the corner where I stood waiting for the car,
whose green light I saw approaching far off, the sidewalk was elevated at least two feet above the level of
the street. There was not the slightest protection
in the way of a railing or coping; so when the car
halted, throwing a dense shadow across the gutter -




1892.]


A DISASTER.


45


a black abyss - I stepped down into it without in the
least realising its depth. I had planned for a slight
descent of two or three inches; I made a plunge of
two feet, with the momentum that can never be computed until one feels the sudden fetch-up that follows. I felt it in the next instant in every nerve,
and in one burning agony that seemed to concentrate
itself in the heel and ankle on the right foot. The
shriek which I gave ought to have collected a mob;
but it was Sunday evening, and the righteous persons passing by on their way to church were so occupied with pious meditations that they either did not
hear or did not heed.
I managed to crawl up out of the slippery chasm
where I lay in a limp heap, and sat down on the
curb, wringing my hands, and crying, "Will no one
help me! oh, will no one help me!"
This moving appeal did finally penetrate the earmuffs of two stout men, and they picked me up and
carried me into a drug store on the corner. For the
first time in my life I fainted; and when I recovered
consciousness, the druggist himself was holding a
wineglass of brandy to my lips, and a motherly
woman was kneeling down beside me unbuttoning
my boot. When I came back to life, the first thought
that flashed across my mind was, " I have lamed myself, and now I cannot go!"
It was Sunday; the time for my departure was
Tuesday night! After more than a year's effort, and




46   DISAPPOINTMENTS AND DELAYS. [Ch. II.


after surmounting almost hopeless obstacles, to fail
now, - it was sickening!
Furthermore, I had had before two separate experiences in lameness - a displaced knee-pan, which
healed, to be hurt once again two years later. I had
spent altogether about four years upon crutches, and,
expert as I had become, there was nothing attractive
or pleasing in the prospect of being again reduced to
artificial locomotion. In the event of being able to
compass the revolution in the face of this last and
greatest of all possible and unanticipated disabilities, I could not run, and in event of a collision I
should be forced not only to stand and take it, but
to stand on one foot at that.
In some mysterious way I managed to get into an
Indiana Avenue street-car once more, and started
home. A gentleman helped me off, gave me his
arm, and, as I limped by his side in the darkness,
he talked to me encouragingly, and told me that he
had broken his leg only a few months before, that
he had entirely recovered, and he felt certain that
my hurt was only a slight sprain, from which I
would not be greatly inconvenienced. It was kind,
but not reassuring; and after a four years' uninterrupted daily exercise in the art of applying a flannel
bandage, I am bound to say that the cheerful prophecy was not fulfilled. He assisted me up the front
steps, rang the bell, and when the servant admitted
me bade me good night. I was suffering too in



I892.]


AN UNLUCKY FAMILY.


47


tensely to notice his face as the door was opened.
I never knew who he was; but I have often thought
of our strange ramble in the darkness, and have
still a distinct recollection of his agreeable voice,
his gentleness, and all that he said in his effort to
comfort me.
The C —   s had been in one particular a most
unlucky family. Almost constantly some one of its
members was laid up for repairs; bruises, contusions,
sprains, and dislocations were not only their own
common lot, but that of their relations unto the
third and fourth generation, and of the stranger
within their gates. A lady who had been visiting
them some time before had slipped and fallen, and
had broken her arm and collar-bone, and it was
weeks before she could be removed to her home. A
sister was at that time walking on crutches from a
sprain of eighteen months' duration. I was the last
addition to the standing list of casualties.
When the good people returned from their call
a little while after my own arrival, they found me
in the library with my foot stewing in a bucket of
scalding water; their son, faultlessly dressed, with a
rose in his buttonhole, keeping it up to a boiling
temperature with more water, which he added, at
short intervals, from the tea-kettle.
When they came in, guileless and innocent, and
saw the touching tableau, I looked up out of a cloud
of ascending steam like some sort of a baleful wraith,




48   DISAPPOINTMENTS AND DELAYS. [Ch. II.


and remarked concisely, "I 've sprained my anklebut I'm going."
Mrs. C- threw up her hands with a cry, and
sank down on a sofa.
After a while I was carried upstairs and put to
bed. The surgeon came, made an examination, and
said that the nervous shock had been severe, no
bones were broken, but that the full extent of the
injury could not be ascertained until the swelling
had subsided; for by this time the injured member resembled the typical Chicago female foot
as it is represented by New York and St. Louis
cartoonists.
The next morning there was no apparent improvement, and my feelings were lacerated beyond expression by the spectacles of a trunk packed and
strapped, of rugs, bags, and boxes, all in readiness
for immediate departure. The crowning blow was
the arrival of a sheaf of roses, pink and fragrant,
with a charming note wishing me bon voyage from
a friend who had not learned that, instead of
bon voyage, it was to be non voyage -to judge
from appearances.
The hurt, the disappointment, the inevitable
postponement, the downfall of roseate hopes and
lofty ambitions, was endured with stoical composure;
but I am not ashamed to confess that when I
received a time-table with the hour marked in red
ink when my train left Chicago and arrived in San




1892.] FEMALE WAR CORRESPONDENTS.


49


Francisco, sent with a note of congratulation and good
wishes from another friend, I burst into tears. More
than this, I settled down to enjoy that ancient
sedative to overstrung feminine nerves, a good
cry, and felt immensely relieved. A prospective
war correspondent in tears is not a spectacle to be
seen every day; but it must be edifying, not to say
improving, when it does come within the range of
ordinary vision. It simply proves that, even though
the war correspondent be a woman, she does not
cease therefore to be feminine and human. But I
was destined to have more trials; first of all,
visits of condolence from friends, fellow-journalists,
and other well-meaning but not always tactful
persons.
I have always managed to be somewhere near
what in Kansas would be called the "cyclone
centre." The previous summer, while on a visit
to my family in Indiana, the horses attached to
the carriage which was taking me to the railway
station bolted and ran away. I was talking, and
did not notice the speed at which we were going,
and the gentleman who was my fellow-passenger
remarked quietly, without changing his ordinary
tone, "The horses are running off, but do not
jump out."
I had always inveighed against the folly of people
losing their heads under such circumstances, leaping
out, and being injured for life or killed outright. It




50   DISAPPOINTMENTS AND DELAYS. [Ch. II.


was a fine opportunity to carry my theories into
practice. I sat still, encouraged without doubt by
the composure of the other passenger.
After a mad race of a quarter of a mile or so, the
horses turned into an alley, the pole of the carriage
struck a telephone pole and broke off, the right fore
wheel collided with a heavy curb, and the frenzied
brutes, entangled in their broken harness, came to a
standstill, snorting and trembling. When the crash
came, the carriage careened like a sinking ship, then
settled and came down on its four wheels intact.
The other passenger opened the door; we alighted,
both a little pale and pretty well shaken up. As
familiar objects flashed past us in our flight, the events
of my whole life did not pass before me, as they are
commonly supposed to do in moments of deadly
peril, nor did I make any solemn vow to repent of
my sins and make fitting reparation in the future.
I knew perfectly well, even in that somewhat incoherent frame of mind, that I should not really repent
of my sins, and that I could not make reparation if
I tried. My one thought was pre-eminently practical
and sordid: "I shall be killed, and my accident
insurance policy has lapsed!"
When I reached Chicago, I went without delay to
the office, and took out another policy, a prudential
measure that was destined to be rewarded. I did not
get the policy under any sort of false pretences. I
told the secretary that early in life I had formed the




I892.]


AN OLD FRIEND.


5I


habit of breaking my bones, and up to that time the
record stood one arm, and two knees, or rather one
knee, twice; there was also a miscellaneous and
unimportant list of semi-drownings, falls, and other
hair-breadth escapes.
The secretary set the confession down to an
attempt to be humorous, issued the policy, and I
thought no more about it, except on such occasions as
it became necessary for me to pay the too frequently
recurring premium.
On Monday - to return to the main narrative after
this divergence -the insurance company was notified,
and that evening its surgeon called to see the extent
of the accident, and to give them some idea as to
what it was to cost them before they had done with
it. When he came into the room, I saw a tall,
handsome young man, with features of classical
regularity, fair complexion, fair hair, and a pair of
remarkable eyebrows, in that they were not only
perfectly arched, but jet black. It was a singular
combination, and one that I remembered to have
seen but once before in my life. He came to the
bedside, and sat down.
"What is your name?" I asked rather abruptly.
It was familiarity that could be ventured without
undue rashness in the case of a young examining
surgeon of an accident insurance company, and I
meanly took advantage of the opportunity.
"Dr. H -," he replied.




52   DISAPPOINTMENTS AND DELAYS. [Ch. II.


I looked at him again, and the identity of the
familiar face was identified.
"Ernest H-?" I asked again.
"Yes," he replied.
Years before he had been a pupil of mine, and
I recalled him standing by my side, a white-haired
urchin, eagerly receiving instruction in common
fractions. I remembered him as a manly, honest,
industrious, persevering lad; but I had not thought
of him for years. His career had been one which
the freedom and opportunity of the great Republic
makes possible to those who are disposed to take
advantage of them.
His father had been a plasterer -a poor man.
The lad was taken from school to help support the
family. He became a potter, and went west -to
Kansas, to Colorado, to California. In his ramblings
he lodged in a house with a young medical student,
and became interested in medicine from hearing his
friend read his text-books. He began to study
himself, saved his money, entered a Chicago medical
college, took his degree, and had just received his
appointment while waiting to build up a city practice.
We of course talked over the old days, and the
strange chance that had brought him to my bedside
after years of wandering and the thousand changes
and dangers that had come to both.
At the time he was under my instruction I was
enjoying one of my recurrent lamenesses; and I




i893-]


SHATTERED HOPES.


53


reminded him of this, and of the entire recovery
that followed.
He remembered me as his teacher-a dim and
shadowy figure that had risen suddenly out of a
dim and shadowy past; I was venerable, not to say
archaic, in the estimate of his keen and merciless
youth. The hideous foot was unrolled, displayed,
examined.  I waited desperately for his verdict.
He looked at it critically, handled it gingerly and
professionally.
" How long will it be before I can use it?" I at last
managed to inquire. "You know I recovered from
that second dislocation without much trouble."
He continued to prod and peer in silence. Then
he looked up, and said, with the cruelty of the
scientific devotee who under certain circumstances
ceases to be human: "Yes, but you were younger
then. Now " (a pause), -" now your age is against
you."
In my bruised and broken state revolt was useless.
I bore it as I had borne all the untoward events,
the deadly disappointment, the nerve-racking anguish
of the preceding forty-eight hours, and I lay back
on my pillow with a moan. In the weeks of tedious
and painful convalescence that followed my one
dread was that the revolution would come and I not
be there to see. I had tormented the long-suffering
managing editor to distraction, and wrested a promise,
reluctantly and hesitatingly given - for he had had




54   DISAPPOINTMENTS AND DELAYS. [Ch. II.


more time in which to think about it -that I should
go as soon as I was able to travel. I opened the
morning paper every day with precisely the same
emotion of dread and relief.
The crutches which had served me so faithfully
in the two preceding engagements were sent for, and
in due time the injured limb was encased in a silicate
cast from the knee to the toes. The latter were
exposed, and could be covered only by a man's sock,
which was all that would go over the cast. Over this,
to prevent the sock from becoming soiled and ragged,
was worn a man's No. Io india-rubber overshoe.
A leather shoe of that size, with the weight of the
cast, would have been a burden to carry, and a slipper
would have been difficult to keep on. The only
possible compensation that this structure offered
was that it made the other foot look fairy-like by
comparison.
The latter part of January the surgeon gave me
permission to visit a friend in the West Side.
My health by this time was seriously affected, and it
was thought that the change of scene would be beneficial. A fortnight passed delightfully, with no
evil tidings from the prospective seat of war. On
Saturday evening, February 4th, when Mr. P —, the
husband of my friend, returned from his office, his
wife met him in the hall, carefully closing the door
behind her. All this time, during the entire fortnight, I had talked of nothing but Hawaii, boring




1893.]  THE EXPECTED REVOLUTION.


55


them incredibly, no doubt, of where I should go, what
the country would be like, the adventures I was destined to have, breaking another bone or two being
anticipated as a matter of course. The conference
in the hall was lengthy, and it was carried on in
whispers; but as I was reading by the fire, I did not
notice it - I recalled it the next morning. Through
the evening there was an unnatural gaiety in Mrs.
P-   's manner, and a marked absent-mindedness
and nervousness in that of her husband.
She related an unusual number of amusing anecdotes, and he laughed mechanically, and started out
of a brown study once or twice when I addressed
him suddenly. With the prospect of the scene in
which they were destined to participate, I have
reason to believe that their dreams that night were
troubled and their slumbers much disturbed. In
the five weeks that had elapsed since the accident
the injury had not improved in the least; I could
not walk a step without crutches, even with the
apparent prop of a silicate cast weighing twenty
pounds.
I came hobbling into the drawing-room on Sunday
morning before breakfast in smiling unconsciousness
of the last vindictive slap that Fate had delivered.
There had been a terrible sleet-storm, which had
prevailed all day on Saturday and throughout the
night. The city was a solid glare of ice. The storm
had ceased at dawn, the sun had come out, the sky




56   DISAPPOINTMENTS AND DELAYS. [Ch. II.


was without a cloud, and it had turned bitterly cold.
Sleighs were dashing up and down the avenue with
a cheerful jingle of bells, their occupants swathed in
furs from head to foot.
Without a word Mrs. P-   handed me the Sunday
Tribune. I glanced at the staring headlines. There
I saw it set forth in the biggest and blackest of
letters, "Revolution in the Sandwich Islands.  The
Queen Dethroned.  The American Flag Hoisted."
It had come! All that I had dreaded had been
brought to pass. Words were inadequate to express
our feelings. As Miss Kingsley remarked of the
East African natives, we simply sat down and had
a "friendly howl" together. The tears streamed
down my face, and we wept in unison. After the
manner of his kind, the husband looked on helplessly,
then discreetly retired to his bedroom. But it was
only a burst of passing emotion; and, besides,
there was no time to cry. When Mr. P — joined
us at breakfast half an hour later, he found us sad,
but calm. After I had had a cup of coffee, I
said:
"Order a carriage, and I will drive at once to
Mr. N 's house."
Half an hour later the carriage was at the door.
The streets were like glass, and the horse had to
walk at a snail's pace. A drive that ordinarily could
have been made in less than an hour required two.
When we reached the house at last, with deceit that




I893-]


RENEWED ENERGY.


57


was in reality the last artifice of desperation, I left one
of my crutches in the carriage, risked the only neck
I had, which, once broken, could not be mended
with silicate, and dragged myself across the slippery
side-walk and up the slippery steps.  That this
was accomplished without fatal results I can only
attribute to the fact that the frowning Providence
that had been glowering at me steadily for five
weeks, was temporarily distracted, probably by
some fresh savagery of a Chicago alderman, and
so I escaped.
The sunlight streamed cheerfully through the
drawing-room windows; it was warm, and there
were flowers everywhere about. It was the most reassuring prospect that I had had through a period
of protracted and heavy calamity.
Mrs. N — was out of town - the champion, the
friend, that would have backed me up as valiantly
as of old had she been there. Mr. N - was at
breakfast; but he came amiably into the drawingroom, with his napkin in his hand, as soon as my
card was sent in. He divined my errand. He read
it emphasised in my determined air. It was of no
use to waste words; besides, I had talked of Hawaii
so much that I was myself by this time a little tired.
I went straight to the point:
"The Queen is dethroned, and now, Mr. N,
I am going."
Mr. N   -- did not look at the crutch which I




58  DISAPPOINTMENTS AND DELAYS. [Ch. II.


clutched, nor at the No. Io overshoe; but he said,
with mild and wholly unexpected acquiescence:
"Well, I suppose you will never be happy until
you do. You'd better telegraph to San Francisco
and engage your passage on the steamer."
The entire interview may have occupied ten
minutes. In another hour the wire was sent to the
office of the company in San Francisco. I was to
leave the following Tuesday, February 7th. And
this is where the superior heroism of women is displayed. There was not a man of my acquaintance
who did not think that it was the maddest folly to
attempt such a journey, on such an errand, alone,
on crutches, half-way across the continent and the
Pacific. They said it would have been bad enough
to go with a maid and a physician in time of peace;
but unattended and practically helpless, to venture
upon such an expedition, to find the country in
nobody knew what state, was sheer idiocy.
The only two approving masculine voices which
both, well for me, happened to be decisive ones were
those of my good surgeon and my good editor-inchief. The city editor, a tender-hearted Englishman,
who had ruled me with a rod of iron, or tried to,
in the old reporting days, was especially severe.
"If I had any authority in the matter, you should
not stir a foot," he said.
I reminded him that, fortunately for me, he had
no authority, and that it was true that there was




I893.]


FINAL OBSTACLES.


59


but one foot that I could stir, but that I hoped to
make sufficient use of that to compensate for being
deprived of the usual complement.
I set out to the C    s on Monday afternoon.
The only accident that happened en route was that
the horses slipped and both fell down upon the track
in front of a rapidly approaching cable-car.
Successive disasters had quite hardened me, and,
beyond a feeling of pity for the poor brutes, I surveyed the accident with composure, and in the frame
of mind of the heroine of a melodrama who has been
abducted, robbed, arrested, imprisoned, survived the
loss of friends, fortune, and family, and exclaims
truthfully, "Nothing can hurt me now."
The poor horses struggled to their feet again -
they could; the cable "slowed up," as the motorman would say; and no harm was done. I halted
at the office a moment, and it was arranged that I
should drive down the next morning and get my
credentials, a fresh supply of railway tickets, and a
second set of official instructions.  Then I drove
home, the luggage was ready, and as I said goodnight I remarked in fatuous confidence:
"Everything is done, M-; and when I come
back from the office in the morning, we will have a
long, quiet day together."
A long, quiet day! How my evil genius must
have grinned at that vain speech! At ten o'clock
I was ready to keep my appointment; but there




60   DISAPPOINTMENTS AND DELAYS. [Ch. II.


was no editor visible, nor were there any evidences
that he had arrived. I waited patiently until it
struck eleven, twelve, then one, two, three, four!
At four o'clock the door opened, and he came in,
amiable and absent-minded. I had waited without
luncheon, all day.
"The tickets, and the letters, Mr. N —," I
began. "You were to be here at ten, and have them
for me."
"Tickets -letters? Why, bless my soul, I sent
them out to the house last night at seven o'clock!"
"They have never been received."
"Are you certain?"
I had a little habit of forgetfulness of my own, and
was past grand-mistress in the art of losing things.
I had lost my watch two months before, and had
the entire office in a turmoil hunting for it. It was
found among some clippings in a pigeon-hole of my
desk. I was never believed on such a point as this
afterwards; nobody charged me with wilful mendacity, but it was taken for granted that I supposed
I knew, but in reality had forgotten.
I suffered for my sins on this occasion. There
was no doubt but that the tickets and letters had
been delivered, and it was hinted that I would
probably find them on my writing-table or in a
bureau drawer. The only alternative was to go
home and look; there were yet six hours until the
train left. Nothing had been seen or heard of any




I893.]


AN ANXIOUS MOMENT.


tickets or letters of any nature or description
whatever.
It was the housemaid's afternoon out, and she had
gone to visit friends on Blue Island Avenue, miles
away across the city. She was usually prompt and
reliable, and messages or letters or cards were at
once brought to my room. It was barely possible,
it was thought, that she may have forgotten to do
her duty on this one momentous occasion; because,
if she ever did forget, it would be at just that time
and on that one particular evening.
We looked everywhere, the entire family joining
in the fruitless search; not a vestige of a railway
ticket or a credential was unearthed, and at length
we desisted and held a solemn conclave. The last
expedient was resorted to: the cook was dispatched
to find the housemaid and bring her back, and
M —    went into the kitchen to finish getting the
dinner. Everybody was tired, anxious, depressed.
I had on my travelling-dress, and had carefully
secured the No. o1 overshoe, and then I toiled downstairs to wait in the drawing-room and apologise to
the family for all the trouble and distress I had
caused them. The cook had not returned; but just
then there was a sharp whirr of the door-bell. A
reporter had arrived and produced the lost documents.
The explanation was simple, but incredible. A man
had been sent to the district messenger office, and
every little loitering wretch assigned to duty on the




62    DISAPPOINTMENTS AND DELAYS. [Ch. II.


South Side had been called up, catechised, and made
to give an account of himself. The guilty one was
found. He was forced to go with the reporter to
the identical house at which the packet had been
left. It was next door, and the woman, who was my
dressmaker, had forgotten to send it in to me! Her
servant had received it the evening before.
We held our breath, and wondered what possibly
could happen next. Very little dinner was eaten,
and conversation languished. The last hours passed
rapidly by, as they always do; the carriage came,
the good-byes were said, I hobbled down the steps,
was helped into the vehicle, the door was slammed,
and we rolled down the icy street.
"Do you realise.what a journey you are undertaking?" said M —, as I put my crutches in the
corner.  And I replied briefly, but undauntedly,
"Yes."
At a quarter to ten I was comfortably established
in my section of the Pullman car with all my belongings about me, innumerable farewell gifts from friends
-fruits, flowers, books, and many creature comforts,
after the kindly generous American custom. Then,
last of all, M-  said good-bye. The negro porter
made up my berth, and in fifteen minutes I
was between the blankets, with a sort of vindictive
and evil satisfaction that it was over and I still
lived.
Presently the steam rushed into the air-brakes




1893.]         MY DEPARTURE.                63
with a hiss, the wheels revolved, and we moved slowly
out of the great North-Western station. I sat up
in my berth, drew back the blind, and looked out as
the blue and green signal lights went by. I then
said, as solemnly and as feelingly as if I were saying
a prayer:
" I- am - really - off — at- last! "




CHAPTER III.


FROM CHICAGO TO HAWAII.
THE Japanese believe that huge, invisible spirits
contend in the upper air for the mastery of
human destiny, the one good and the other evil,
and when misfortune is paramount the evil genii
triumph, when fortune is propitious the good spirits
have prevailed. As we rushed away through the
night across the Illinois prairies, the demons that
had thwarted me for weeks must have looked after
the flying train, frowning and gnawing their nails
in humiliating defeat.
They may even have hissed "Foiled," and so
departed. At any rate, my troubles ended from
that moment; at least they ended so far as the
vexatious miscarriage of my plans were concerned,
for the silicate cast, the crutches, and an everpresent ache were still with me.  I had insisted
that I would get on famously, that the porter would
look after me, that friends would be raised up
along the journey to aid me in dire extremity. I
had put in my bag a package of postcards, upon
64




I893.]


MY GUARDIAN ANGEL.


65


which brief messages should be inscribed, giving
a sort of bulletin during the three days' journey
overland.
The next morning at nine o'clock I wrote:
"The guardian angel has appeared upon the scene.
He is sitting in the seat opposite me, in a grey
tweed suit and a travelling-cap.  He is sixty, or
thereabouts, with snow-white hair, blue eyes, and
cheeks as rosy as a winter apple. He is humming
'Annie Laurie' to himself."
It was not a misleading intuition. He proved to
be a retired Chicago banker of scientific tastes. It
may be doubted by the unenlightened that there
ever was such a person as a Chicago banker with
scientific tastes; but here he was. He had graduated from Yale with honours years before. He had
wanted then to devote himself to scientific study;
but he had to earn money, and scientific study is
not usually financially profitable.  All his life he
cherished the hope that he might one day realise his
aspirations, and they were realised.  He made his
fortune, and retired- for Americans occasionally
do retire when they make their fortune, though not
often. He had given the years of his leisure to
the study of astronomy, and had written much on the
subject for scientific journals. He was making his
fourth visit to Japan, and he said that it would vary
the monotony of a journey that had lost all its novelty to look after me and render me any assistance
5




66       FROM CHICAGO TO HAWAII. [Ch. III.


that lay in his power. He talked much and most
interestingly, escorted me to the dining-car and back
again, and we shared the contents of our lunch-baskets as long as those contents lasted. The acquaintance was renewed upon my return home, and he and
his charming wife are to-day among my warmest and
most valued friends.
The negro porter, William, was the paragon of
porters.  The poor fellow had arrived in Chicago
from the long journey eastward at seven o'clock, and
had started back at half-past ten the same evening.
He was worn out with fatigue, but his good nature
and kindness were boundless; all that mortal porter
could do he did, cheerfully, respectfully, and as if
it were a pleasure. I began to think that henceforth
I should make it a rule to travel with crutches.
The prairies of Iowa were white with snow. At
Omaha the ground was bare; but a blizzard broke
loose that rocked the heavy train until it was almost
thrown from the rails. Here, too, when the wheels
were tested, one was found with a broken flange - a
timely discovery which saved us from being wrecked
out on the plains, miles from assistance or a telegraph office.
In crossing Nevada the platforms were crowded
with painted and blanketed Indians, who had been
given the privilege of riding thus from station to
station for the right of way across their reservations.
The last night we climbed the Sierra Nevada




I893-]


SAN FRANCISCO.


67


Mountains, and as I woke and looked out of the
window in the dim moonlight, I could see enormous
snow-drifts, with paths like tunnels to the doors of
the low houses along the railway. A little later
there was a dense fog; and when morning came we
were climbing down the western slope into the verdant Sacramento Valley. The floods were out, the
river had burst its banks, and the lowlands were submerged for miles; but there were other miles of
emerald fields, of blossoming almond orchards, of
budding vineyards.
We had rushed down the mountain in the grey of
the dawn, out of frosty winter into spring and sunshine. I had not realised that Oakland was the terminus of the railway line, and that San Francisco,
which we saw miles away, must be reached by crossing the bay. The difficulty of a transfer by ferry
was one, happily, which I had not bargained for, and
consequently was spared the pain of worrying over
it; but William was faithful to the end, and my
scientific friend, after three days' unceasing and
untiring ministration, said, "I will not desert thee."
Nor did he, until he saw me safely bestowed in
my pleasant room at the Occidental Hotel, where I
found a bright fire sparkling in the grate, a pyramid
of fruit upon the table, which was presently supplemented by a great basket of dewy ferns and roses,
sent up "with the compliments of Major Hooper,"
the proprietor. He was a retired army officer, a




68       FROM CHICAGO TO HAWAII.       [Ch. III.
graduate of West Point, and had all the kindness
and courtesy and gallantry of "an officer and a gentleman." Whoever fell into his hospitable hands
was well cared for.
We were not to sail until Tuesday, and, arriving
on Friday, I was supposed to be given time to rest;
but the brief sojourn in the Californian metropolis
was anything but that. There were calls, visits,
sight-seeing, drives in the Park and out to the Seal
Rocks, and last, but not least, a visit to China-town
on Monday, the eve of the Chinese New Year, with
a friend then on the staff of the San Francisco
Call.
The shops and temples were gaily decorated, and
the streets were thronged with people in holiday
attire.  All sorts of unappetising edibles were
offered for sale - strange fruits and nuts, squid,
dried ducks, and various sorts of salt fish.  Firecrackers were popping right and left; and there was
a babel of thin, high-pitched nasal Chinese voices,
and mirthless, falsetto Chinese laughter.  I hobbled about, intensely interested in the shifting panorama, for no one can drive through the steep, narrow
thoroughfares. Suddenly two shots were fired. Instantly an officer hurried us into a police station
near at hand.  Shop windows were closed like
magic, doors were fastened, and the streets were
immediately deserted.  It was like the retreat of
animals into their burrows at some sudden alarm.




i893.]       THE HIGH-BINDERS.             69
"What in the world is it?" I asked, as the door
of the station opened and admitted a whimpering
Mongolian, supported by two officers. I had supposed the firing to be connected in some way with
the celebration of the New Year.
"High-Binders have broken loose again," said the
policeman.
The High-Binders are a secret organisation, of a
semi-political nature, banded together for their own
purposes, which include the prompt assassination of
their enemies. A hasty examination was made, and
it was found that the man had been seriously
wounded in the back. He was removed to the hospital, and we returned to the hotel.
That night, after I had gone to bed and had fallen
asleep, quite worn out with the fatigue and excitement of the day, I was roused by a knock at the
door. A reporter from one of the morning papers
was in the drawing-room, and asked for an interview. I knew that failure to get the interview would
mean a reprimand for the man, so a sort of professional sympathy forced me to get up and dress and
go down and see him. It was a case where virtue
had to be its own reward, for I found myself introduced to the San Francisco public, through his
newspaper, afterwards as "the Mississippi Valley
Campaigner and Correspondent to Hawaii." This
extraordinary legend was accompanied by a picture
which illustrated St. Paul's definition of faith-re



70      FROM CHICAGO TO HAWAII. [Ch. III.


versed; for it was "the evidence of things seen, not
hoped for."
The Australia sailed the next day at two o'clock
- a convenient hour. My San Francisco friends
had been unremitting in their attentions, and I left
the hotel loaded with flowers and fruit; indeed, there
was so much of the latter that quantities of it
had to  be left behind.    Among   many gifts
of books and little conveniences for my cabin
was a comfortable steamer chair and a big, soft
cushion.  On board I was passed over to the
surgeon, Dr. S -, who was the embodiment of
goodness and patience.  I had been given a cabin
to myself, although the owner of the line besought
me to give up the voyage and remain in San
Francisco.  When I refused, orders were given
that its difficulties should be made as easy as
possible.  Dr. S —   had the upper berth removed,
so that the lower one was converted into a lounge,
into which one could climb easily and conveniently.
Among the passengers were his two cousins, interesting and charming people. He himself was deeply
learned in his profession. He had been educated in
England, had lived much abroad, and was a fine
talker. We kept very much to ourselves, I through
necessity, not being able to move about and having
no desire to make acquaintances. We made a little
quartette at the surgeon's table, and were daily
refreshed with the incomparable Kona coffee (the




1893.]


THE VOYAGE TO HAWAII.


7I


indigenous coffee of the Hawaiian Islands), with
other little luxuries which he was able to procure
for us.
The weather was enchanting; and we steamed
down the Bay, through the Golden Gate, under
cloudless skies, in floods of sunshine, past the grey
craggy Faarallones peopled with seagulls, of which
dominion the light-keeper is king.  It was like a
soft May day. The next morning I was roused by
a knock at my door, and Dr. S -   said, " Look out
of your air port, and you will see the Monawai
passing." In these lonely seas one may sail for days
without a glimpse of a mast or a funnel, so the
passing of a ship is an event. It gradually grew
warmer, and summer clothing was in demand the
third day out.
Though the Pacific does not always deserve its
name, the entire voyage was something never to be
forgotten.  The water was blue as sapphire, and
peopled with living creatures: flocks of flying fish,
like small white birds, leaped from the waves, ventured their short, swift flight, and sank back into their
native element; occasionally the dim outline of a
grey and ancient whale could be descried far off;
the white gulls followed us half-way across, and the
brown gulls met us in mid-ocean and escorted us
the rest of the distance. As we approached the
land, which was sighted early on the morning of
February 22nd, the "bo'sun bird," as the sailors




72       FROM CHICAGO TO HAWAII. [Ch. III.
call the beautiful creature, circled round the ship,
pure white, with two extraordinarily long white
feathers in the tail, fluttering like pennons as it flew.
As we neared the tropics heavy showers were
frequent; they came on suddenly, the rain fell
heavily for a few moments, and then the sun came
out. Sometimes we could see half a dozen of these
tropical showers descending from clouds at different
points around the horizon; one could then realise
the small area which such a rainfall covered. The
rainbows were marvellous, spanning the sky with an
opalescent arch apparently rising from and sinking
into the sea. The phenomenon is so common in the
Islands that the natives once called them the " Islands
of Rainbows."
The first of the group to lift itself from the sea
was Molokai, the prison-house of the lepers. From
a distance it seemed to lie low against the water,
like a giant tortoise; but it is in reality a mass of
forbidding cliffs and almost inaccessible precipices.
There are eight inhabited islands in the group, which
have an area of six thousand seven hundred square
miles; they are Hawaii, which is the largest, Maui,
Kahoolawe, Lanai, Molokai, Oahu, Kauai, and Niihau.
Nothing could have exceeded the loveliness of the
morning. There was not a ripple upon the bay; the
wonderful colour of the water, the deepest blue,
banded with pink, rose, violet, brown, and yellow,
with streaks of palest green, was something that the




1893.] THE BRIGHTON OF HONOLULU.


73


most fervid imagination could not have pictured.
The white surf was beating against the hidden reefs,
a fringe of tossing spray; to the right rose the
naked crag of Diamond Head, seamed and scarified
by primeval volcanic fires.  There were other
peaks, Tantalus and Round Top: there is always
a Round Top everywhere- such, in the matter of
fitting names, is the mental poverty of mankind.
These remote peaks were clothed with dense masses
of vegetation, the native forests which grow in these
higher altitudes; on the lower slopes, the merest
dots and specks, could be seen the white houses and
gardens of the industrious Portuguese; below these
there were stretches of fertile valley covered with
velvet sward.  The city followed the curve of the
harbour from the docks to Waikaiki, a beautiful
suburb which Mrs. Isabella Bird Bishop has named
"The Brighton of Honolulu." The name is hardly
a fitting one, since it is a succession of fine private
villas standing beside the sea in the midst of tropical
gardens, visited little by the public except select
companies of bathers and by those who drive out
along the well-kept road in the cool of the early
morning or evening.
The harbour showed a forest of masts; this should
have been anticipated, for it is not so very many
years ago since it was a most important port from
which whaling vessels set out upon their long voyages.
For some strange reasons on their first voyage the




74      FROM CHICAGO TO HAWAII. [Ch. III.


Hawaiians made admirable whalers, the cold of the
Arctic or Antarctic proving a keen tonic; the second
year, however, they were of less value, probably
because, their curiosity having been gratified, their
interest waned and they had more time to brood
over discomforts that did not disturb them at first.
In those old days it is said that one could walk for
a long distance by stepping from the deck of one
whaling vessel to another, as they lay anchored
closely side by side. Both Hilo, in Hawaii, and
Honolulu were important ports in the whaling trade.
It was Washington's birthday, an American national
holiday, and the three American men-of-war, the
Boston, with the Alliance and the Mohican, were
gaily dressed from  bow to topmast.  The great
Naniwa, which had been dispatched to Honolulu, and
was protecting the Japanese interests in the Islands,
commanded by a cousin of the Mikado, and which
afterwards took such an important part in the war
with China, also displayed a mass of flags and
pennons out of courtesy to the American ships.
The four war vessels, with the English Garnet, were
anchored side by side, constituting what was known
as " Naval Row." As we steamed past them the sailors
in their uniforms of dazzling duck crowded to the
side and cheered us lustily.
The arrival of a steamer is always an event of
importance to these island dwellers, cut off from
closer contact with the world. We had taken a pilot




I893 ]


FIRST IMPRESSIONS.


75


on board outside the reef, and had learned from him
that there had been no new developments in the
political situation. We passed the quarantine, and,
being able to show a clean bill of health, were not
detained. All about us were boats filled with chattering Hawaiians, most of them barefooted, wearing blue
cotton trousers, white cotton shirts, and straw hats.
Around the latter invariably was a garland of yellow
coreopsis or tuberoses, called lei, which was made by
stringing the blossoms in a solid wreath on a bit of
cacao fibre. With the well-to-do the lei was a band
of peacock feathers. Many wore these garlands around
the throat as well.
As we approached the landing-stage crowds of
dusky brown urchins, wearing only a thin cloth about
the loins, swam out and dived for coins- a custom
that seems to prevail in all tropical islands. The
water was nearly as transparent as the atmosphere,
and their lithe, slender bodies could be seen at a
great depth, almost as much at home as their familiar
friends the fish that darted about them.
There was a charming, picturesque multitude on
the covered dock: ladies beautifully dressed in summer muslins, with white, pink, and blue parasols,
and pretty lace-trimmed hats; gentlemen also in
white, even to their canvas shoes. They signalled
gaily to friends on board, and were as gaily answered.
The air was heavy with the fragrance of orange
blossoms, tuberoses, and gardenias. What a trans



76      FROM CHICAGO TO HAWAII. [Ch. III.


formation scene! Less than a fortnight before I had
left Chicago, a city stark and frozen, locked in ice,
and here was a land of perpetual verdure and a
fadeless summer.
With the Americans and Europeans were crowds of
natives; the women wearing the holoku-a decidedly
rational garment, vastly becoming, and invented for
them by the wives of the missionaries. It consisted
of a full, flowing skirt attached to a yoke, and the
preference seemed to be for muslin, or stiff flowered
silk. Each woman wore a garland of flowers, and
they were talking volubly and laughing like children.
At that crisis neither the white residents nor the
natives had taken the revolution seriously. They
had grown accustomed to little political upheavals
like this, and they believed that this, like others
that had preceded it, would blow over, and there
would be an interval of peace - until the next time.
As events progressed, however, the public temper
changed; there were in store for both days of
anxiety, of carking care, of personal and national
peril, and both the foreign residents and the natives
were to be seriously affected by the phases through
which they were destined to pass. They became
subdued and apprehensive; both lost their cheerfulness and their sanguine faith in the future; suspicion
became rife, feuds were engendered, and men who
had been as brothers were divided and hopelessly
alienated.




'893.]


A LIVING FAIRYLAND.


77


But, as I have said, this was a later phase of
political development. There was among her adherents at that time some regret that Liliuokalani
had been dethroned.  Many of the natives were
amiably indifferent, and the ex-Queen had not then
wholly alienated the white population by the savagery
that subsequently sought to satisfy itself with
medieval beheading and modern dynamite.   But
this was only the beginning.
The ordeal of the customs was simplified for me,
through the thoughtfulness of Dr. S —, and, this
formality complied with, we drove down to the hotel.
I had never seen anything that seemed to me
half so wonderful as the beauty of that island capital
and the wide, clean, sunny streets; the chimneyless
houses standing in gardens crowded with palms, and
mango trees, and feathery algarobas; the hedges of
flaming hibiscus, and the long pendent garlands of
rose-coloured bougainvillea. What a contrast it all
was to my recent dwelling-place! It seemed a living
fairyland, and I exclaimed, "I know that I shall
never be as happy again in this life as I am at
this moment!"




CHAPTER IV.


A FIRST IMPRESSION.
W    E drove up the winding avenue into the
grounds of the Royal Hawaiian Hotel. It
was an inviting place, standing in an extensive and
well-kept park. There was a central building, with
wings on either side, and verandahs above and below.
The back rooms were preferred because they commanded a view of the mountains, were much more
retired, and were much cooler.
The house was quite full, and there was some
trouble in finding a place for me.  Miss Adeline
Knapp, the clever correspondent of the San Francisco
Call, had preceded me to Honolulu by some days.
It was very difficult for me to get up and down stairs,
although I could have managed it if forced to do so.
My sister journalist, however, came generously to the
rescue. She had the best and most desirable room
in the house, one on the first floor, looking out upon
the Punchbowl -an extinct crater at the back of the
city- and shut off from the main verandahs by
a private passage; it had also its own little secluded
verandah, which could be converted into a cosy
78




I893.]1


THE ROYAL HOTEL.


79


and delightful open-air drawing-room. Besides all
this, it was screened with vines, shady, cool, with
the bath just across the passage outside. She at
once insisted upon vacating this desirable snuggery,
taking a far less comfortable apartment on the upper
floor, pretending that she was more than compensated by the view.  I was not deceived in the
least, and knew that I was profiting by her selfsacrifice. She not only did this, but helped me to
get settled, unpacked my trunks, shook out my
crumpled gowns and hung them in the wardrobe, and
did not leave me until she had done all that she could
find to do.
The Royal Hawaiian Hotel was built early in the
reign of King Kalakaua and is still the chief hotel in
Honolulu. It was inconveniently arranged, but had
been furnished with a good water supply and the
electric light. The verandahs were broad and airy,
and liberally furnished with chairs and wicker
lounges. At one end was a lanai- an apartment
open on three sides, with curtains of matting which
could be lowered when it rained. It was connected
with the drawing-room, and was prettily furnished
with wicker chairs and tables, and hung with Japanese lanterns. But there was too profuse decoration,
and whenever I looked at the array of gimcracks it
seemed as if a vessel loaded with Japanese fans and
umbrellas and banners must have exploded there,
and its cargo attached itself in some mysterious way




80


A FIRST IMPRESSION.


[Ch. IV.


to the walls and ceiling.  I had once heard an
authority on household decorative art solemnly expostulate against what he called "producing a spotty
effect." Had he seen that collection of fans and
banners he would have beheld the spotty effect in
its most malignant and exaggerated form.
The drawing-room was cheerful and comfortable,
but people seldom sat there, except when receiving
calls, preferring the verandahs outside. One valuable
and conspicuous work of art was a fine bust in
marble of the late King Victor Emmanuel. I wondered much how it came to be there of all places
in the world, and learned that it had been presented
to King Kalakaua when he visited Italy during his
tour around the world; he gave it to his Mormon
Premier, the notorious Gibson, and he or his heirs
presented it to the hotel. The dining-room was a
big bare place with Chinese servants flitting silently
about, and candour compels one to say that the
cooking of itself would have been enough to incite
revolution. That evening at dinner I thought the
American who sat opposite me excessively rude when
he called the Chinese boy and told him to take
away the beef that had been set before him, adding
sternly, "And bring me some more without any of
that umbrella juice on it." In the course of time I
learned to loathe the inky liquid myself, and almost
everything else, except the delicate broiled mullet, the
strawberries, and honey-sweet bananas.




1893.]


THE NATIVE AT HOME.


The servants and officials about the house were
about as heterogeneous a company as could have been
mustered. The proprietor was English; the manager
an Englishman, a graduate of Oxford; the day clerk
was a Portuguese, married to a Japanese lady; the
night clerk a Chinaman; the head steward was an
Alsatian, married to a Parisian woman; the cook was
a Greek; the barber a German; one of the bell boys
came from the Canary Islands, and the others from
the Azores. At the various tables were American
and European tourists, and occasionally officers from
the Japanese war-ship, with the diplomatic representatives of various countries.
After luncheon Miss Knapp took me for a drive
out to Waikiki and Diamond Head. I had my first
glimpse of the native at home as we passed a house
crowded with idle, dirty women, squatting on the
ground smoking.  The furniture was scanty and
dilapidated; the hut was dirty and disorderly in
the extreme; there were numbers of cats; and
the progress of civilisation was exemplified in a
kerosene lamp and a small sewing machine worked
by hand. By the roadside were groves of old cocoa
palms bending their plumy heads toward the sea,
young forests of graceful algarobas, and there were
flowers, flowers everywhere. Clouds came drifting
down the valleys along the mountain sides, soft as
spun wool and as white. There is nothing so profoundly solemn in nature as this slow movement of
6




A FIRST IMPRESSION.


[Ch. IV.


clouds; they are so wraith-like, so impalpable, passing, fading, dissolving. There was an historical fishpond stocked with venerable gold-fish, that had gone
on multiplying undisturbed, no matter what revolution
might be on foot, and the water swarmed with them.
It was arranged that the cast with which my foot
was still cumbered should be removed that afternoon.
I must be indulged in this final mention of the
hateful impediment, which will then disappear from
this chronicle. On a former occasion, when a similar
appliance had been taken off, after I had lugged
it about for six weeks, I found myself able to
walk, and I had looked forward eagerly to a similar
recovery now. It was very warm, and the operation
took something over an hour and a half. Dr. Swith a huge knife cut away the solid mass, the
perspiration streaming down his face. At last the
remnant of the shell dropped off, and I felt as light
and untrammelled as a newly hatched chicken.
I rose with trepidation and essayed a step, hoping
and believing that I could walk as well as ever.
Vain expectation! The useless foot, to quote the
graphic description of a friend, " shut up like a razor."
Except that the load which I had carried for five
weeks was gone, I was no better off than I was
before.  It was the third bitterest disappointment
I had ever had, and the good doctor, sympathising
with me in it, patted me indulgently on the
shoulder, and there was nothing to do but make




1893.]  A BITTER DISAPPOINTMENT.


83


the best of it, and arrange for the difficult work I
should have to do as best I could.
In the evening many callers came. There was an
open-air concert on the lawn by a substitute for the
Queen's band, which refused to play after her overthrow, and the grounds and verandahs of the hotel
were crowded with people. We had another drive in
the moonlight. The air was steeped in the fragrance
of jasmine and orange blossom, the streets brilliantly
lighted, with shadowy gardens echoing with the notes
of the guitar and mandolin, and with the soft pensive
music of Hawaiian voices.
I went to bed at midnight, but I could not sleep.
At two in the morning, when silence had fallen at
last, I rose, wrapped myself in a rug, went out, and
sat in my steamer chair in the verandah, watching
the stars. How low they hung; how luminous, how
large they were! The night wind stirred the boughs
of the mango-trees; now and then a bird chirped in
its sleep; far off I could hear the lowing of cows
and the barking of dogs; footsteps came approaching
out of the silence and then vanished. It was inexpressibly peaceful; it was beautiful beyond the
power of words to describe; but there had been with
it all that deep, indefinable melancholy which tinges
our profoundest happiness.




CHAPTER V.


IN HONOLULU.
BEFORE arriving in Honolulu I frankly confess
that my sympathies were wholly with the
natives; I took the view —so easy to acquire from
books and from other sentimentalists like myself —
that the natives were being robbed of their birthright
by the relentless whites, who, in their greed and
with their superior cunning, had seized and held the
balance of power. It was a fixed hallucination which
it took some time to clear away; and during the
educating process the only judicious course to pursue
was to listen, and observe much and say little. At
the end of a fortnight the question ceased to be
one of sentiment; it became simply, stripped of all
its verbiage and local colour —of which there was
a great deal, and a variety of shades -one more
ethnological illustration of that relentless law, the
survival of the fittest. The complication could be
compared only to a temperance campaign in Indiana,
where the feeling ranges through all varieties of
belief - high licence, prohibition, and no licence; and
84




1893.]  A COSMOPOLITAN SOCIETY.


Indiana is named because there, as in the Hawaiian
Islands, politics are the native element of the inhabitants. Never were there so many prejudices and
suggestions projected upon which the unwary might
tread. To think thrice before speaking once, was the
mildest and most inadequate advice. One finally
wondered if it were prudent to speak at all.
Society was a curious network. All Americans,
most of the English and Germans, and some of the
best of the natives and half-castes, favoured annexation to the United States - annexation pure and
simple, as they put it. There were with these -an
influential constituency- the adherents of the Queen,
who believed that she had been cruelly wronged; the
missionaries, who to a great extent control social
affairs and constitute that dominating power supposed to be vested in the oldest families; last of all,
there were prospective capitalists - Americans and
English -who might have rendered substantial aid
in developing the resources of the Islands. Besides
these there were numbers of secret annexationists,
waiting to find out which would be the popular and
winning side, with some hundreds of Hawaiians
bitterly opposed to the ex-Queen, and justly blaming
her for the trouble she had brought upon the country.
All, however, royalists and annexationists, were
united in a desire for peace and for a stable form
of government.
The times were exceptionally hard; money was




86


IN HONOLULU.


[Ch. V.


so scarce that it was difficult to borrow even small
sums upon good security, while business had stagnated to such a degree that general bankruptcy
seemed imminent. It has been realised by this time
that the part taken by Mr. Stevens, the United
States Minister, had not been an arbitrary assumption of power, but a measure of public safety. The
Hawaiian Government had not been absolutely
dissolved nor its authority set aside. When the
American flag was hoisted over the Government
buildings, the United States men-of-war saluted not
only their own colours, but the Hawaiian flag as
well, which continued to float from its flag-staff in
the grounds. And when Captain Swinburne, in
command of the marines which were landed, was
questioned, his reply was:
"My orders are to protect the Legation, the
Consulate, and the lives and property of American
citizens, and to assist in preserving order. I do not
know how to interpret that; I can do it in but one
way. If the Queen calls upon me to preserve order
I am going to do it."
This disposes entirely of the charge that the
Revolution was premeditated and the Queen dethroned by the aid of United States troops. Japan
at once dispatched the Naniwa to protect the interests
of the thousands of Japanese labourers in the Islands,
who are employed in the cane fields on the sugar
plantations.




i893-]


THE LABOUR SYSTEM.


87


At the time of the Revolution the planters were
dependent upon the contract labour system. The
Japanese Government received a certain sum for every
man permitted to leave the empire - a pretty substantial source of revenue when the number increased,
as it did steadily. A strict account was kept of each
labourer furnished. When the men arrived in Honolulu, they were selected by their employers and taken
to the plantations on the other islands. Each man
received $I5 a month, a house, fuel, water, and free
medical attendance. Women received $ 13 per month,
and were employed chiefly in the mills as "feeders."
Opponents of the system condemned it without
reservation, declaring it to be but little improvement upon negro slavery as it prevailed in the
Southern States before the war.  There was, in
reality, a very great difference, with all the advantage in favour of the Japanese field-hand. He could
return to his native country at the expiration of
his three years' period of service; he could not be
separated from his family; no species of force
was permitted on the part of the planters, who, if
they so much as laid a finger upon one obstreperous
cane-stripper, could be fined for assault; and, in such
instances, it was a rare thing for the verdict to be
given for the defendant. With the warm climate,
but little fire or clothing was required; the labourer
had always his garden, and lived largely upon rice,
which is very cheap; upon what he raised, and upon




IN HONOLULU.


[Ch. V.


wild bananas, that could be had in the forests for the
gathering. A careful system of book-keeping was
carried on at the Japanese Consulate in Honolulu,
where his savings were deposited, and an account was
kept of the sum due him, which was paid him, with
interest at the rate of four per cent., at the end of the
three years. The Japanese was frugal and temperate,
and it rarely happened that he returned to Japan
empty-handed. Instead of regarding it as a sort of
bondage, the Japanese labourer was glad to go to
Hawaii, where he could live comfortably and cheaply,
and his Government was willing to profit by his
temporary absence.
The system being made one of the objections to
annexation by many Americans —the employment
of contract labour being prohibited by law in the
United States-the unwillingness of the Hawaiian
Republic to allow unlimited Japanese immigration
led to a collision with Japan. There has been, however, very grave reason for resisting Oriental encroachments.  Immigration increased subsequently
at an alarming rate. The Hon. L. A. Thurston
states that in I896 and the early part of I897 immigrants arrived at the rate of two thousand a month,
and that in I896 the adult Japanese males outnumbered those of any other nationality.  He states
further, that, at this rate, in one year "they would
have numbered one-half the population," and in five
years "would have outnumbered all the other inhab



i
F~ORTC STlREETT, HONOLULU~ll








I893.]


JAPANESE IMMIGRANTS.


89


itants put together, two to one." "Considering the
relative population of Hawaii and the United States,"
he continues, "it was as though a million Japanese
a month were entering San Francisco;" and he very
fittingly termed this, " not immigration, but invasion."
To put an end to this invasion the Government
was finally forced to enact restrictive laws, which
the Japanese Government considered a violation of
its treaty rights. With this difficulty there has
been dissatisfaction on the part of the planters, who
have found no satisfactory substitute for the wiry,
active, and energetic Jap. Europeans or Americans
have not been found in large numbers to work in the
cane fields, and the Hawaiians will not; and the situation remains something of a quandary.
Honolulu is wonderfully clean, and the absence of
poverty and squalor is striking. There is no smoke
or soot, and but little dust. The streets are swept
constantly. There are no filthy alleys and unsightly
premises, such as may be seen in American towns
and cities; and the tiniest cottages, even in the
Chinese and Portuguese quarters, are surrounded by
neat fences and blooming gardens, wherein may be
seen a myriad variety of flowers, vines trained
against the walls, and figs ripening upon the trellises.
In the business portion of the city the streets are
narrow, and there is not much room for traffic when
the tram is given its allotted space. One sees in
the shop windows tastefully arranged muslins,




90


IN HONOLULU.


[Ch. V.


prints, calico, silks, and laces, like those displayed in
American shop windows, and the prices are about
the same. There are book, picture, and china shops,
such as may be seen in any European capital; and
if the proprietor happens not to have an article
inquired for, it is promptly ordered.
There are five churches, not including the Japanese
and Chinese missions, -the Union Church, which is
professedly Congregational, but which is attended by
people of all religious beliefs; St. Andrew's Cathedral and second congregational Church; Christian
Chinese congregation; a Roman Catholic Church
and Convent.
The street-cars are little patronised except by the
natives. Every one drives either in his own carriage
or in one of the numerous vehicles that may be
hired at any street corner. These are neither cabs
nor victorias, but what in America are called "doubleseated carriages," drawn by one horse. The animals
are generally in poor condition, hay and oats having
to be imported from California. They are driven,
however, at a rattling pace. The numerous and
convenient carriage-stands are an evidence of the
extensive tourist population. Rates are dearer than
in London or Paris, and a great deal cheaper than
in New York or Chicago - $. 50 cents an hour for
one passenger, $2 per hour for two, and twenty-five
cents to any point within a radius of one mile from
the centre of the city.




I893-]


THE HAWAIIAN JEHU.


91


Jehu in Honolulu is an eminently social creature.
He does not answer questions gruffly, like his
American confrrer, or point out objects of interest
with chilling reluctance. He feels a simple and
sincere interest in your well-being, and takes for
granted a corresponding politeness on your part.
If he is driving two "fares," he freely joins in the
conversation, gives you his views, and concedes your
own, or gently but firmly disputes them. And he
is a revolutionist first, last, and all the time.
The abolition of the monarchy was a stirring crisis
in Hawaii, and no one realised this more keenly
than the ubiquitous hackman, and none took a
greater pride in the fact that the small group of
Islands was the centre of international dispute and
the subject of important diplomatic negotiations.
"I was the first man that busted in the door of
the Government building," one announced to me as
I was driving about the second day after my arrival.
He stated the fact with all the pride that Winkelried
or Leonidas might have shown. Then he gazed
triumphantly at the American flag floating over the
Government building, adding, "And I helped put
that up there."
At another time I was discussing the Hawaiian
race problem with a friend, entirely oblivious of the
gentleman on the front seat. He turned round and
announced solemnly, "My wife is seven-eighths."
By this mathematical assertion he meant that seven



92


IN HONOLULU.


[Ch. V.


eighths of the blood in her veins was white, and the
saving remnant Hawaiian.
However, with all his revolutionary predilections
and his somewhat abnormal conversational powers,
the Honolulu hackman rarely overcharges, and he is
the soul of good nature.
Everywhere, even in the smallest grounds, there
are lawns of thick Bermuda grass, which in the
rainy season is of velvety greenness.  It should
be explained that there is not a definitely marked
rainy and dry season. The trade winds blow nine
months in the year; in December, January, and
February they cease, setting in again in March.
The first week after their arrival seems to be devoted
to a general clearing up. The trades come with a
terrific roar, and blow day and night without ceasing
for a week, or a little less. People prefer, then, to
remain in the house with the doors and windows
closed. When the wind calms down to a normal
velocity, it is seen that dead leaves, dead branches,
and even dead grass have been blown away, and
the effect is something like that of the vernal equinox
in the temperate zones.  There are frequent rains
throughout the summer, but the rainfall is heavier
in the winter, although there are many fair days.
Thunderstorms are so rare as to be phenomenal.
There are no extremes of heat and cold such as
prevail in the United States, when the torrid summer,
relaxing and enervating, may be followed by a




I893.]


HOUSES AND HABITS.


93


winter of arctic severity; the maximum heat is 74~
Fahrenheit in the winter, and 84~ in the summer;
the lowest winter temperature is 56~.
The houses are built with verandahs in the front
and in the rear, and frequently upon all four sides.
On these verandahs or in the lanai the family
practically lives. The front door stands wide open
from morning until night, and there is a Chinese or
Japanese servant waiting about to announce you
when you arrive. Sometimes the servant is dispensed
with, and, if a door-bell is lacking, you may find a
small hand-bell placed within convenient reach, and
this you will gently tinkle and put back in its
appointed place. The grounds about the houses on
the main avenues are extensive, and are filled with
many varieties of palms, tropical ferns, crotons, lilies,
and masses of tuberoses. Notwithstanding the dense
masses of foliage there is no undergrowth, and no
litter anywhere from dropping twigs or withered
leaves; the marvellous luxuriance, with the apparent
absence of all fading and decay, forms a part of the
wonders that constantly confront one.
Honolulu has a population of thirty thousand, and
in his handbook Mr. Thurston states that there are
sixty-seven miles of streets and drives, of which twenty
miles are macadamised; it has five public parks and
squares, private electric-light systems, and thirteen
hundred telephones, for which a very low rental is
charged, are in daily use. The city is very efficiently




94


IN HONOLULU.


[Ch. V.


governed and policed. Honolulu is the paradise of
the Chinese, and furnishes a sharp contrast to their
status in San Francisco and elsewhere on the Pacific
Coast. It is a pleasant sight to see them about their
shops fondling their little children.  It is a still
pleasanter sight to see these same children, of a little
larger growth, flocking home from school, playing by
the wayside, and exercising their lungs in the manner
of healthy and untrammelled childhood, their pigtails
lengthened by strands of bright pink cord which end
in a tassel that strikes their little heels as they run.
The more tidy and thoughtful gather up the queue
and carry it over the arm, as a fine lady carries her
train. But the native dress, which they all wear, the
queue, and the manila bag full of school books are an
Occidental and Oriental combination which it would
be difficult to find outside Hawaii. It gave evidence
of a healthy democracy and a cosmopolitan broadmindedness among the white children who had not
been biassed by acquired or inherited prejudice.
The servants are almost exclusively Chinese or
Japanese, usually Chinese. In well-to-do households
four or five are employed - the cook, the house-boy,
the "yard-boy" and his assistant: "yard-boy" being
Hawaiian for gardener. They are usually model
servants, obedient, industrious and clean, excellent
cooks and incomparable house servants, doing their
work without fuss or noise, and doing it quickly,
systematically, and thoroughly. A Honolulu house




NU. NAlN     AV-iNUEi, FIION(OLUJI.i








I893-]


CHINESE SERVANTS.


95


seems, apparently, to keep itself; one hears and knows
nothing of the friction of the domestic machinery.
There are of course exceptions. Shortly after my
arrival I saw the housekeeper in the hotel shaking
a rebuking index finger at an abashed "boy," who
bore her high-pitched tirade in French very much
as a spiritless dog might have submitted to a shower
of kicks and blows. Inquiring into the nature of
his misdeeds, I was told that he had exceeded his
instructions in the matter of dusting, and had washed
a costly gilt clock with a very wet towel. My own
especial "neat-handed Phyllis " was a smiling, pockmarked creature, who drifted into my room and
drifted out again without leaving much evidence of
his labour behind him. One morning he voluntarily
and unassisted removed a withered bouquet from
my dressing-table, flourished his big dust-brush like
an amiable demon in an incantation scene, waved
his hand, said "Velly nice," and then stood with
his arms folded, waiting my official approval. An
uninvited caller shortly afterwards invaded my
verandah, and left behind him the abomination of the
tobacco chewer. When I called John's attention to
it, he came with his mop, remarking, with the fadeless
smile of his race, " Some man spit velly bad."
The Chinese servants employed in Hawaii rarely
live in the house; they have their own lodgings
elsewhere, coming early in the morning, and leaving
in the evening after dinner has been served. This




96


IN HONOLULU.


CCh. V.


is inconvenient, as it leaves no one to attend the
door unless this office is performed by some member
of the household, as it usually is, with that kindly
informality which is half the charm of Hawaiian life.
The only holiday the Chinese servant expects is
the week of the Chinese New Year- in February.
Then preparations must be made for his entire and
continued absence.  The cook usually prepares a
supply of bread, cakes, cold meats, and like food,
enough to last several days; and the ladies must
then-allot the work amongst themselves and manage
it until the domestic staff return. Prior to their
departure there is a formal presentation of gifts
to "mamma," as they invariably call their mistress.
These gifts consist of flowers, Chinese sweetmeats,
nuts, embroidery, and gaudy, cheap vases. " Mamma"
usually gladdens the heart of her servitors in return
with something which she knows is especially desired.
The streets are a perpetual panorama, full of life
and colour. In the Chinese quarters are rows of
small shops. It is like a lesser China-town, except
that here in peaceful Honolulu the industrious
Mongolian is not molested.  In these tiny shops
there are no show windows, the entire front being
open to the street, and closed with heavy, wooden
shutters at night. There are a great many tailors;
and the Chinaman in his native dress and queue
running a sewing machine, making cotton holokzus
for native women, is one of the curious mixtures of




I893.]


HAWAIIAN WOMEN.


97


Orientalism and " modern improvements " that flourish
on every hand. There are coffee-houses and laundries
innumerable. On the narrow side-walks Hawaiian
women spread their mats and set out their baskets
of flowers, alternately stringing leis,smoking, sleeping,
and gossiping. They bring their pets to bear them
company, - disreputable, repulsive little dogs, with
weak eyes and the mange; or young pigs, a favourite pet which they thoroughly domesticate and
eat unflinchingly when he "comes of age."
These women literally " come and spend the day;"
and the men, who have even more leisure, stop
and chat, so that the young and handsomer women
hold informal "at homes" on the side-walk all day
long, with the privilege of their favoured class the
whole world over, and certainly to the inconvenience
of ordinary pedestrians. Occasionally they make a
pretext of offering their wares for sale, but not
always; even keeping up the pretext is too much
of an effort. One woman, who especially interested
me, began the day with a stock that consisted of
three oranges and two lemons, and complacently
strolled away in the evening with this stock intact:
a little thing like this does not trouble them. Poi,
their staple diet, is cheap and fattening. It is made
of the taro, - the kalo of Samoa and koko of West
Africa; botanically, the Colocasia antiquorum.  It
has a thick, fleshy root, which in a natural state
is said to be poisonous. It is therefore boiled and
7




98


IN HONOLULU.


[Ch. V.


kneaded into a paste, greyish pink in colour, with
a slightly sour flavour, something like buckwheat
batter.  It is of varying consistency, and is eaten
without ceremony out of a common calabash, around
which the family squat. Each dips into the mass,
and dexterously rolls a ball of the paste on the tip
of his index finger, which he still more dexterously
conveys to his mouth.  It is called "one-finger,"
"two-finger," or "three-finger poi," according to its
consistency. A very small patch of taro will support
a family a year; and if the head of the household can
have with it a limited supply of squid, his physical
wants are satisfied.
Therefore, with sufficient poi, clad in the airy and
flowing holoku, or cotton shirt and trousers, according
to their sex, with the mercury rarely falling below 60~,
they are spared many of the ills that human flesh is
heir to in other less-favoured quarters of the globe.
It takes very little to support life, and the Hawaiian
is usually happy, apart from the natural aids to contentment.  With the yellow-skinned Chinese, the
dusky Hawaiians, there are numbers of swarthy
Portuguese thronging the streets, and, added to these,
seamen from the English, American, and Japanese
men-of-war. The latter-the able seamen from the
Naniwa, probably one of the best crews in the Japanese Navy- were slender, delicate-looking fellows,
but there was about them a suggestion of the pugnacity of wasps.  They have proved their courage




i893.]


SOCIETY IN HONOLULU.


99


since in the war with China, and verified the opinion
of an American officer who said, "They fight like
ants, without regard to the size or strength of their
enemy, and hold on till death."
The Japanese officers, in their white duck trousers,
blue caps, and blouses heavily trimmed with gold
braid, were elegant and graceful. They wore a small
sword, like a carving-knife, in a sheath attached to
the belt at the left side. So closely did these short
swords resemble the familiar piece of table cutlery
mentioned, that the eye instinctively ran round the
belt in search of the accompanying fork and steel.
One evening the officers dined in a body at the
hotel, which was magnificently decorated with
American, Hawaiian, and Japanese flags, and with
the greatest profusion of flowers, which they must
have considered barbarous. They were guests of the
Japanese Consul, and I could not resist the temptation of watching them file through the corridor,
dignified, handsome, self-possessed- like gentlemen
of any other civilised race.
Too much cannot be said of the American and
European society in Honolulu.  Almost all the
younger generation among the former, identified with
the business or politics of the Islands, have been educated in the best American universities, and have
been liberalised by European travel. Many of the
women also have been educated in the United
States, a few in England, and they too have had the




I00


IN HONOLULU.


[Ch. V.


advantages of travel and of the essentially cosmopolitan life of the Islands. They are thoroughly
well-informed, and talk well, and their culture is a
good deal more genuine than I have found it in other
countries where the opportunities are supposed to be
greater.
Oahu College, which is permanently and liberally
endowed, was founded by the missionaries more than
fifty years ago; and it seems strange to recall that
the early settlers in California sent their children out
to the Islands to be educated there. This college as
well as the other schools even then were co-educational, and were considered excellent, besides being
much more accessible than the educational institutions of the Eastern States, in those days of overland
travel, or when the voyage had to be made round
the Horn.
At the time of the Revolution -and it is hardly
probable that it has altered since- the honesty of the
people was remarkable. There were no locks on
the doors or bureau drawers, yet nothing was ever molested. Stealing was almost unknown, and no precautions were taken against possible theft. I left
some coins upon my bureau for several days. The
doors and windows were open, servants came and went,
and flower-dealers loitered about the verandahs. I
was away for hours at a time, yet the money was not
disturbed, nor would it have been had not the "boy"
considered it necessary finally to return it to me.




CHAPTER VI,


THE HOME OF KAIULANI.
THE last Sunday in February I received an
invitation to visit Mr. Cleghorn's grounds,
and to go through the new house which he had
just completed for the occupancy of his daughter,
the Princess Kaiulani, who was then absent in
England. Mr. Cleghorn was of Scottish descent,
a prominent personage in Honolulu society. He
was a man of considerable wealth, and president
of the British-American Club. He apologised for
receiving me on Sunday, and explained that it was
his only day of leisure. We drove up the winding
carriage road to the house, halting under the shade
of a giant banyan tree - one of the most magnificent
of its kind. It recalled my geography days, -the
spreading branches, with their thick, dark-green,
glossy leaves; the heavy boughs, with their smooth
bark, not unlike our birches, these boughs sending
roots down into the earth like pillars, their spreading
branches making a canopy under which a caravan
might have found shade. A carpenter's bench was
IOI




102    THE HOME OF KAIULANI.


[Ch. VI.


strewn with chips and shavings, and there were
other evidences of incompleted work, which, however, was progressing rapidly towards completion.
Mr. Cleghorn's place was one of the most beautiful
in the Islands. The spacious grounds were ordinarily
closed to visitors, with " Kapu " (" No Admittance ")
over the gate at the entrance. The new house was
a white frame structure, of two storeys, with wings
at either end - the favourite form of Honolulu architecture -with a wide verandah extending across the
front. The shrubbery had been cut away for several
yards in every direction to allow the free circulation
of the air, and just beyond the main entrance stood
the one incomparable banyan tree, which the owner
presently informed me was the handsomest thing
he had. He was not visible when we arrived, and
I was helped from the carriage and sat down upon
the carpenter's chest among the chips and shavings
while a Chinese servant went in search of him.
After a short interval he came-a tall, handsome
man, erect as a field marshal, as dignified as a Spanish grandee, and altogether an impressive figure,
with his keen black eyes, white beard and hair. He
had been out amongst his flowers, he explained, and
in proof of this he dropped a pair of pruning-shears
into the pocket of his loose alpaca coat. It was
not every day that one met the parent of royalty
so occupied.
"The house is nearly completed," he said, look



I893.]


AN UNUSED PALACE.


103


ing up at the closed windows with a wistful expression. "I built it for the Princess, and expected
to have it all in readiness, and now this overturn
has come."
It was a little difficult to reply to this remark. I
could not assure him of any honest belief in the
re-establishment of Hawaiian royalty, which I did
not think would ever be accomplished.   So I
gently turned the conversation upon other and
impersonal subjects, and told him how glad I was
to see a banyan tree, and one so beautiful as the
fine specimen which he had raised. This evidently
gratified him, and after pointing out its various
beauties he invited me to come into the house.
The key was brought, and I was shown into the
hall, then into the grand drawing-room, where the
young heir-apparent would have held informal
receptions. It was a stately apartment, probably
forty feet in length and thirty feet in width, with
many windows looking out upon the velvet lawn.
The panelling was in beautiful native woods highly
polished, and the decorative tiles in the corridor
had been brought from Chicago. At one end there
was a large room enclosed with Venetian blinds on
two sides, the windows extending from floor to
ceiling, and being provided with screens.  This
was the "mosquito-room," in which the Princess
and the English companion whom she was to have
brought back with her had expected to sit and




Io4


THE HOME OF KAIULANI.


[Ch. VI.


sew, read and talk. Much was made of the screens,
so universal in the United States, but which, strangely
enough, were not in ordinary use in that mosquitoridden land. On the upper floor I was shown the
Princess's private suite, the bedchamber corresponding to the drawing-room below, with a boudoir at
one end and a dressing-room  at the other. The
Hawaiian coronet, and the kahili, the ancient symbol
of Hawaiian royalty, recurred at intervals in the
decorations of the ceiling.
Long experience had made me very expert in the
use of my crutches, and upon getting up the gangway of the Mohican, a few  days before, I had
boastingly remarked to Captain Ludlow, her commanding officer, as he expressed some fear for my
security, that I felt certain I could climb on to
the roof of a house, if an opportunity were given
me. As frequently happens, I had been taken at
my word.   After we had gone through all the
rooms on the upper floor Mr. Cleghorn wondered
if it would be possible for me to get out on the
roof. "There is a beautiful view," he added, by
way of additional incentive.
I wanted to see the view; but, apart from this,
I had said that I could walk onto a roof on my
crutches, and now that the occasion, so little anticipated, had come I must make good the assertion
or be considered thereafter a vain boaster and a
person altogether over-imaginative.  So I replied,




i893.]


A PERILOUS ADVENTURE.


I05


without an instant's hesitation, though I did not
in the least know how it was to be managed, that
nothing would be easier.
He opened a door, and there was a staircase as
nearly perpendicular as a staircase could be, with
the narrowest of steps, and lighted by a trap-door,
which he ran up and opened.
I looked at this arrangement dubiously; I could
have hopped down with a little help on one foot;
but I could not hop up. However, a gallant escort
came to the rescue and steadied me, while another
followed to catch me in case I lost my balance
and toppled over backwards, and the thing was
done. The roof was flat, and once reached there
was no further difficulty; the descent of the staircase was comparatively easy -comparatively, not
altogether.
The view certainly was most beautiful —worth
even more than the effort I had made to see it, and
it remains vividly in my mind.
Below us were acres of rice field, the most vivid
and tender green; there were the solemn mountains,
with great ragged masses of cloud floating down
their summits and across the valleys; there was the
sea, blue as sapphire, with the white surf tossing
along the curve of sunken reef; there was the harbour with its shipping; the shady streets, the blossoming hedges, and gardens crowded with palms and
algaroba and mango trees.




Io6


THE HOME OF KAIULANI.


[Ch. VI.


The air was damp and soft and sweet, reminding
me of an April day at home when the apple blossoms
were in bloom, the gentle trade winds blowing across
the Pacific and passing onwards to other islands
whereof they knew.
Near the house was a bungalow -a long, low
building, the roofs sloping on the sides from an
elevation in the centre. It was provided with a
lanai. The floor of the main apartment was covered
with matting, and it was very simply furnished, to
secure coolness and space.
The bungalow showed evidences of the Revolution,
and was crowded with relics of Hawaiian royalty,
evidently hastily gathered together-feather coronets,
shell necklaces, pieces of furniture, and in a large
box was one of the celebrated feather mantles like
those worn by the nobles. Then the portraits were
pointed out of the Princess Like-Like, the mother
of the heir-apparent, and of the Princess Kaiulani
herself.  The mother had a pleasing face of
the native type, while the portrait of the Princess
Kaiulani showed her to be a very handsome girl,
with large, dark eyes and the more regular features
of the Caucasian race, inherited from her father.
There was one pretty picture of the young girl
sitting in the garden under a tree; another which
was painted at the age of twelve; and another, the
most interesting of the collection, in Japanese
dress.




1893.]  RAPID GROWTH OF TREES.


I07


" When will your daughter return to the Islands?"
I asked the father.
"Not until she has completed her studies," he
replied.  "This is some of her work," he said,
pointing at two little copies in oil; they were
specimens of her first painting. "That is a later
work," and he showed me a copy of Landseer's
"Challenge," taking evident pride in this latter
specimen of the young Princess's skill. Truth compels me to state that the pictures had no more
merit than other examples of the work of royalty
which I have seen since in other countries.
After exhausting the interests of the bungalow my
host walked through the lovely grounds with me
to show his cocoanut trees, which were bearing
profusely.
"When I bought this place a few years ago,"
he said, "there was nothing here. I have planted
everything myself, and have seen it come to
maturity."
It seemed incredible, for the trees that towered
above us, throwing their cool, dim shade down across
the long avenue, might have been of a century's
growth. He stopped to show me some fine specimens
of the croton. This curious plant is almost numberless in its varieties, both in the colour of its foliage
and the shape of the leaf. It is yellow, green, dark
maroon, crimson, and mottled yellow and green.
The leaves on some are ovate, and others are a




io8       THE HOME OF KAIULANI.       [Ch. VI.
perfect lanceolate. My host told me that frequently
plants would send out a shoot differing in colour
and form from the foliage of the shrub. This, broken
off and planted, produced an entire shrub of its own
kind.
"I am very much interested in their propagation,"
he said, "and I have already forty varieties."
A peculiar purple black bumble bee flew past -
not at all like our brown bee, with its fuzzy body
and its dark velvety stripes. This was a metalliclooking insect, with a vicious way of darting about.
I was told that it was a great pest, from its habit
of boring into wood, and that the heaviest timber
was frequently honey-combed by it and destroyed.
It had been imported into the country in cedar
brought from Oregon.




CHAPTER VII.


AN OSTRICH FARM.
THROUGH        the kindness of Mrs. C. A. Brown
I had the pleasure of visiting an ostrich farm,
where a resident of Honolulu was experimenting in
raising ostrich feathers for the market. The industry
was yet in its infancy, but it will doubtless be a
success. Everything thrives in this wonderful climate
except frogs, snakes, and a natural enemy to the mosquito. As we drove along the fine road to Waikiki
we passed the park with its many verdant islands,
the neat gardens of the Chinese, the vegetable beds
separated by narrow canals of flowing water. Along
the roadside at intervals, on the outskirts of the
city, were Chinese shops, the proprietors at the
doors, usually caressing a child picturesquely clad
in white drawers, a green undershirt, a little scarlet
cap and jacket, as impassive and outwardly emotionless as its parent. I also saw two Hawaiian firemen
mending a hydrant in the streets; they were barefooted, clad in blue cotton trousers and scarlet shirts;
one was hatless, but he wore, instead of the usual
o09




IIO


AN OSTRICH FARM.


[Ch. VII.


head-covering, a gay wreath of scarlet hibiscus;
the other retained his hat, but he had concealed
the crown, except the top of it, with a wreath of
orange marigolds. The vision of a Chicago or a
London fireman similarly decorated makes one smile;
here it seemed eminently fitting.
The ostrich farmer received us kindly, having
evidently grown accustomed to tourists and their
teasing, if not foolish, questions. He had grown
patient under affliction.  In a paddock near the
road were a dozen birds, two years old, standing
herded together in the shade of the algaroba trees.
They were probably six feet in height, with grey,
furry necks, which they writhed and twisted like
serpents.  Their fuzzy heads seemed ridiculously
small in proportion to their size, with so much of
the available space devoted to mouth and eyes:
as the owner quietly observed, "there was n't much
room left for brains." The eyes of these young
birds reminded me, in their colour, size, and softness,
of the eyes of a heifer - the softness being contradicted by the powerful hoof, like that of a camel,
ending in a terrible claw, and a savage, muscular
leg that could disembowel a man at a stroke. The
birds yawned a great deal, and in the operation
the head seemed almost to part in two.   They
had altogether the most bored and indifferent air
I have ever seen outside of a London drawing-room
at the end of the season. The little covering of




I893-]


OSTRICH INCUBATORS.


I I


feathers that scantily protected their backs only
emphasised their nakedness, and they fanned themselves continually with their small, useless wings,
in the ends of which are the feathers most valuable
in commerce.   As we approached they came to
the edge of their enclosure, looked over, retreated,
and yawned again.
" What do you feed them on? " I asked.
"Alfalfa, cabbage, and a little grain. They cannot endure the least overfeeding; it is fatal always."
He kindly offered to show us the incubators. The
birds were then laying, and produced from fifteen to
eighteen eggs. These were removed at night, and
were not left to be hatched after the natural method.
They had to be stolen after dark, when the old
birds are not on guard, from the shallow depression
in the sand which serves for a nest. The parents are
very fierce, and the owner keeps them at bay with a
long pole, on the end of which is a fork, with which
he holds them by the neck beyond kicking distance.
As we passed through the house to the hatching-room
the wife of the ostrich farmer sat at a sewing
machine, with one pretty cat in her lap and another
curled up beside her. She confessed to a love for
cats, in which I ardently sympathised.
The incubator is a cylinder of galvanised iron,
heated with kerosene lamps.  The temperature of
the bird's body, while she sits, is 105~; the incubator is kept at 95~.  The eggs have to be




112


AN OSTRICH FARM.


[Ch. VII.


turned four times a day and as often through the
night, so that the owner has pretty well earned
his money by the time the eggs are hatched, which
does not occur for six weeks. The work of watching
the incubator seemed almost as difficult and tiresome
as managing an orphan asylum. When the first
sound of a chick's chirping is heard, the thick shell
is broken with a sharp instrument -an office the
parent bird performs by striking it with her or his
breastbone.
"What percentage of the eggs is hatched?" I
asked.
" Well, it's mighty small; out of twenty-nine eggs
I had only two birds," the owner admitted with a
discouraged air.
After the hatching is accomplished the young
birds are removed to what looked like a refrigerator,
from the roof of which depended many woollen
strings. These were supposed to provide the protection that nature furnishes in the plumage of the
parent's body. The young birds are fed upon a diet
suited to their youthful appetites, into which glass and
nails do not enter as largely as is generally supposed.
The old ones dco eat nails, I was informed, but only at
long intervals and in limited quantity.  But to
suppose that they trot about with an internal rattling
of scrap iron and broken crockery is most erroneous.
After exhausting our interest in the incubator we
went through a narrow lane, not more than four




I893.]


DIVISION OF LABOUR.


113


feet wide, several hundred yards in length, with a
high fence on either side. Up this lane the old
birds were driven to the corral near the house. The
ostrich farmer went to the end of the lane and
whistled, and presently three huge birds came trotting from the depths of an algaroba grove with an
ungainly, springy tread which was suggestive of the
dangerous elasticity of their legs. They were introduced as "John Sullivan and his wife," who occupied
the paddock to the left, and "Jumbo," who had the
other, upon the right, for his sole occupancy. He
was a giant, imported from Africa, fierce and untamable, and I instinctively moved away as he craned his
long, pendulous neck over the high palings and eyed
me with the most vicious and malignant expression.
In one paddock was a nest in which the eggs had
been scattered about promiscuously in the effort that
the bird had made to turn them. "They do not sit
much at first until the laying is finished," said the
ostrich farmer; "and then the male bird is on the
nest whenever the female leaves it, and that is most
of the time." This challenged my admiration, and
made me regard the savage John Sullivan with a
little more toleration. It was a division of domestic
responsibility, which in the whole scheme of nature
was as rare as it was beautiful. As we walked away
the creatures followed us as if they regretted they
could not have a final nip at us, and I left them
with mingled alacrity and gladness.
8




CHAPTER VIII.


A VISIT TO CAMP BOSTON.
ON    the morning of March 3rd I was invited
by Captain Swinburne to visit the American
marines at "Camp Boston," where they were quartered shortly after being ordered ashore.
By a strange irony of destiny the camp was established in what had been the old home of Mrs. Bishop.
Here Queen Liliuokalani passed her girlhood, and
it was one of those mysterious decrees of Fate that
it should have thus been occupied by the troops of
the United States Government. Her father, one
of the chiefs of Maui, occupied the house in feudal
state, with a guard of three hundred armed retainers. It was a beautiful old house, with verandahs
above and below, and the grounds were kept with the
utmost care, to the marines being assigned the duty
of gardening, in which they took the greatest pride
and interest.
The morning of the visit was like a day in
mid-June, the palms and oleanders and algaroba
trees waving in the soft breeze, their brilliant
II4




MARINES.-CAXMP BOSTON.
0S      reside ce, mfrMer faB 4fLSlOktlan.




Ii




I893.]


CAMP ROUTINE.


II5


foliage shining in the sunlight. The officers came
out to welcome us (we were a party of four), as
the sentry stepped aside to let us pass through the
gateway. The flag floated lazily from the staff; the
sentinels marched to and fro, their cartridge-belts
girded around them, their rifles upon their shoulders,
with all the pomp and circumstance of glorious war.
We chatted a little, and then were shown about the
house and grounds, everything being explained and
every question answered with the characteristic
willingness and courtesy of American naval officers.
The front hall was occupied by an imposing desk,
upon which printed forms were arranged, which
embraced all the routine of daily life and official duty
in camp.
"Here's the daily menu," said Lieutenant Laird,
handing me one of the printed slips. It was as
follows:
"Camp Boston routine: 6, reveille; 6. Io, roll call
fatigue; 6.40, recall, surgeon's call; 7, breakfast;
7.30, assembly of trumpeters; 7.45, assembly of
guard details; 7.50, guard-mounting; 8. 15, company
inspection; 8.30, battalion drill, fatigue; Io, inspection; 12, dinner; 4, drill; 5, band call; 5.30, parade;
6, supper; 9, tattoo; 9.30, taps. Saturday: 8.15,
company inspection, fatigue, general police; 5.30,
parade. Sunday: 8. 5, company inspection; 8.30,
review and inspection, church.
" And do you really have to go to church?" I asked.




II6     A VISIT TO CAMP BOSTON. [Ch. VIII.


" It is not enforced, of course; it is voluntary; but
the men go —not so much now, however, as they
did at first," he admitted.
It was religious retrogression that could very well
be excused in that lovely place and in that heavenly
climate.
In what had been the front of the great drawingroom - divided then from the rear by a partition 
there was a splendid stand of colours; and the adjective is used advisedly. One large flag was of
thick, fine silk, edged with gold fringe, the stars
embroidered by hand in white silk, the work alike on
both sides. With this handsome banner was a set of
signals, also of silk. They were the gift of the city of
Boston, after which the ship had been named. This
is a pleasant custom, followed by all the states and
cities after which the new American war-ships have
been named; and the gifts are of various kindslibraries, clocks, and colours; plate, however, is preferred, as it is more easily taken care of, and can
be handed down as an heirloom, as is the custom
in regard to the costly mess-plate of most famous
English regiments. This has been done by the
State of Indiana for her name-sake. San Francisco
gave so generously to the ship which bears her
name, that the subscriptions could not be expended
wholly upon the service which was ordered, and the
surplus was invested in small gold grizzly bears as
handles for tureens and covers, the grizzly bear




i893-]


SAILORS' OCCUPATIONS.


117


being a conspicuous figure in the Californian coatof-arms.
"You have very regal quarters," I remarked, after
we had sufficiently admired the beautiful flags.
"In many respects, yes," Captain Swinburne
replied; "but I am afraid that it is more regal than
convenient - less convenient, at any rate, than ordinary barracks. There, for one thing, we had the
regulation bunks. Here, the sleeping accommodation is very inadequate; but we are getting everything shipshape as rapidly as possible."
On board the Boston the men slept in their hammocks; in the fine old Hawaiian house the hammocks
were spread upon the floor. The first few nights
after they came ashore they camped in the private
grounds of one of the wealthy residents of Honolulu.
They were nearly devoured by mosquitos - that
terrible pest of Honolulu - and suffered extremely.
In one of the rooms several of the men were lounging
about taking their ease- honest, wholesome-looking
fellows, all of them. One was making a cord by unravelling and twisting into strands a piece of white
braid -the same cord intended to be attached later
to his clasp-knife in sailor fashion. Another, stretched
comfortably upon his back, was reading a novel. The
guns, holding five shells each, were shown us, and an
attempt was made to convey to our bewildered intelligence some knowledge of their merits as explosives.
"War nowadays is not a matter of mere defence




118     A VISIT TO CAMP BOSTON. [Ch. VIII.


or conquest, but extermination," I could not help
remarking, as I was told the incredible number of
shells that could be fired in a minute by one of the
large machine-guns in the grounds.
"Yes," said my patient instructor, "when we fight
nowadays we fight to kill. But the very deadliness
of war makes nations to-day more careful in declaring it."
On the walls were arranged a great assortment of
pictures - cigarette cards, cuts from the illustrated
papers, and odds and ends in the way of prints and
lithographs. The collections were vastly like those
that men, irrespective of class, colour, or previous
condition of servitude, seem to have a penchant for
posting up in their respective places of businesssuch as one will see over a printer's case, or a
reporter's or even an editor's desk.
As I have said, the grounds were in beautiful order,
and several of the men had been hoeing and raking
the flower-beds, and were then at work weeding the
borders.  There was none of the trodden-down
appearance, or the barrenness that might have been
expected in a barracks. In the basin, where the
fountain sent down a cloud of silver spray, was a
mass of luxuriant water-plants, and a number of
gold-fish were swimming about.
"The men put these in here," Captain Swinburne
explained, when I expressed some surprise at the
tidiness of the garden. "They take great pride in




1893.]         "FINNEGAN."                II9
beautifying it and keeping it in order, and the
garden really is in much better condition now
than when we came."
As we returned to the house "Finnegan" was
brought forward, and we were formally introduced.
Finnegan had already passed into history, but he
was one of those rare characters whom praise could
not corrupt or over-attention inspire with too extravagant an opinion of his own merits. Misleading
as his name might be, Finnegan was not a naturalised American politician -a transplanted HomeRuler, who had been carrying on war against the
British Government from the safe vantage-ground
of the United States. He was the mascot of the
Boston; to the casual and indiscriminate observer,
a little mongrel dog, of a nondescript colour, with
cropped ears, and one lame leg.
After the usual formalities he was arrayed in his
blanket - a marvellous covering of dark-blue cloth,
with the word Boston embroidered on one side,
surrounded by stars, which were also embroidered
in red, white, and blue silk. This gorgeous blanket
was further embellished with a small flag on the
other side, and was finished off with a voluminous
sailor collar. It was put on Finnegan by one of
his attendant marines, and he bore the inspection
of our party with rather shamefaced meekness. The
gallant tar upon whom devolved the pleasant duty
of showing Finnegan off basked in the mascot's




I20     A VISIT TO CAMP BOSTON. [Ch. VIII.


reflected splendour. Ie also modestly explained
that it was his own expert fingers that had made
that wonderful blanket, embroidered stars and all.
Finnegan's history was briefly this: He appeared
suddenly in the camp, shortly after the men came
ashore, and was kindly fed and made much of.
Neither man nor dog can withstand material blandishment of this sort. Finnegan had duties and affiliations elsewhere. He had a short, though doubtless
severe, struggle with his canine conscience, and
disappeared at intervals to make amends to his
original benefactor. But these spasms of conscience
became rarer and less imperative. His visits to his
home grew briefer and fewer; he called at first
semi-weekly, then weekly, and then, alas! not at
all. He had had a fatal taste of martial life. He
was ensnared by the position to which he had been
so suddenly elevated, and he finally cut the civil
service once and for ever, and enlisted for life in
the navy.
"What will you do with him when you leave
Honolulu?" I asked Captain Swinburne.
"Take him with us; Finnegan belongs to the
Boston now, and whenever the ship goes, he goes
too."
Thus it will be seen that while the residents of
Hawaii were awaiting diplomatic and legislative
formalities, Finnegan had quietly annexed himself,
and was to be henceforth, for the remainder of his




i893.]    A SAILOR'S HANDIWORK.           121
life, an inseparable part of the American Navy. One
could easily imagine his future career. A sailor's
life on the high seas, a hero in port, a participant in
other revolutions, a central figure in State ceremonials, and finally burial with honours of war in a
neat little shroud in some calm sea under tropical
skies. A dog's life, like a man's, depends upon
who and what he is.
But to return to the needlework. Our expressions
of admiration over Finnegan's blanket encouraged
the men to bring forth other treasures, which were all
duly admired.
"A sailor can make anything if you give him a
needle, thread, and a bit of soap," said Captain
Swinburne, and one could easily believe it after
having seen what we were shown. Upstairs we were
taken through the officers' quarters, the tables were
spread for luncheon with some crisp young onions
already set out upon the board. We declined the
generous offer to share this part of the prospective
meal, and so said good-bye with a promise to come
again, an invitation that was gladly accepted several
days later.




CHAPTER IX.


KING KALAKAUA'S PALACE.
HROUGH the courtesy of Lieutenant Laird of
the Boston, and Colonel J. W. Robertson,
Chamberlain of ex-Queen Liliuokalani, I was permitted to go through the Palace, which was then
closed to the public. It was rather a melancholy
experience - one more reminder of the unstable
nature of human institutions and of monarchical
splendours. To Colonel Robertson had been entrusted by the Provisional Government the custody
of the insignia of State, the crowns, robes, and
jewels, and the valuable gifts of other governments
to the sovereigns of Hawaii. All the personal effects
of King Kalakaua reverted to the Queen-Dowager
and to ex-Queen Liliuokalani, but the collection retained passed into the possession of the Government,
and has been carefully preserved in the museum.
The Palace was built by King Kalakaua, as has been
stated elsewhere; it is a piece of modern French
architecture, with Mansard roofs, balconies, and
many windows, each of which commands a view of
122




1893.] THE ROYAL PICTURE GALLERY.


123


unimaginable beauty, - lofty mountain peaks, over
which the clouds descend; green slopes and valleys,
with masses of tropical vegetation at their base.
As we drove to the entrance a sentry from the native infantry opened the iron gates to let us pass, and
Colonel Robertson met us on the steps at the
entrance. We were conducted upwards first, and
in the grand corridor on the second floor were
shown an interesting collection of portraits -all the
noble old Kamehamehas, Queen Emma, Kalakaua,
and ex-Queen Liliuokalani. The most striking was
that of the first Kamehameha - the greatest of the
line, a warrior of marvellous power, who united the
domains of rival chiefs on the other islands into
the government of which he became the head. The
face in the portrait was that of the best Hawaiian
type, uncontaminated by alien blood, the dark skin
and dark eyes of the natives, with short snow-white
hair. Over the scarlet uniform he wore the yellow
feather mantle of royalty. Another scion of royalty,
the wife of the successful Kamehameha, wore a magnificent tiara of ostrich feathers like that in one of
the familiar portraits of the Empress Josephine.
The portrait, and that of her husband, had been
painted in England.  It was a most interesting
collection.
A portrait of Louis Philippe, presented by the
French Government, was also one of the chief objects of interest with a history. It was four months




I24      KING KALAKAUA'S PALACE.    [Ch. IX.


in its passage round Cape Horn, and was received
with imposing ceremony the very day the monarch
was deposed, an event of which the Hawaiians received tidings just four months later. The portrait
of Mr. John Dominis, the husband of Liliuokalani,
a man of Italian descent, was that of a delicate,
feeble-looking person, and he was a striking contrast
to his robust spouse, who has all the embonpoint of
the Hawaiian.
Two empty gilt chairs stood upon the dais in the
throne-room, with a staff on either side surmounted
by the Hawaiian coronet, and behind these two
towering kahilis- the ancient emblem of Hawaiian
chiefhood - huge plumes, made of the black feathers
of the oo. On the walls, framed and protected with
glass, were decorations received by royalty from the
various European Powers.
On the floor above were the library and the private
apartments of King Kalakaua. The King's chamber, with bath and dressing-room, was hung with
pale blue; the furniture was of gold and ebony; but
the place was dismantled, all his personal effects
having been removed. The Queen's suite, in the
wing opposite, was still more simply furnished. The
hangings and curtains were of chintz, and the rug in
the centre of the bed-chamber had a pattern of huge
roses in which the primary colours predominated.
The library contained some volumes of the Edinburgh
Review, a number of medical works, a small edition




i893.]


THE INSIGNIA.


125


of Audubon's Book of Birds, and the Encyclopaedia
Britannica - not a particularly interesting collection.
In a cabinet was a modest service of plate -spoons,
forks, and ladles - the property of the Government,
which had been sent by France with the ill-starred
portrait of Louis Philippe.
In one small room was a collection of curios, also
to be turned over to the museum, a polished
swimming-board, a native drum (a block of wood
covered with pig-skin), vessels for holding poi, one
or two baskets, and two wooden trenchers, one for
serving roast pig, and another, smaller and deeper,
in which that salient feature of a Hawaiian banquet,
roast dog, was brought upon the table.
After exploring the State apartments we descended
to the lower floor, and the rooms in which the State
insignia were preserved were unlocked, and we were
permitted to inspect them at our leisure. Although
the Revolution had been precipitated in a few hours,
the Provisional Government permitted no violence
and no neglect or abuse of the national possessions
which the Hawaiians held sacred.  Chief among
these were the crowns, sceptre, jewels, and the
sacred mamos - the wonderful feather cloaks which
none could wear but the highest chiefs. These had
been placed in chests and kept under lock and key,
and it was an extremely difficult matter to get sight
of them, whatever influence might be brought to
bear. The kahilis were ranged in frames against the




I26      KING KALAKAUA'S PALACE.     [Ch. IX.


wall, looking like big dust-brushes with long handles. Some were made of yellow feathers, some
of goose feathers, others of hen feathers dyed pink.
These were carried in procession on all State occasions, and the kahilis preceded the Queen when she
came into the throne-room or legislative halls.
There were several chests filled with feathers tied in
bundles, ready to be made up in kahilis if upon
regal occasions the demand should exceed the supply
on hand. The handles of these big plumes were of
bone or polished wood. I saw neatly pieced into one
-a very ancient heirloom- the white wrist-bone of
a chiefess, and in another the thigh-bone of a chief.
These had come down from the time of the first
Kamehameha, and from long usage had acquired a
polish like ivory.
It took much urging and entreating to get even
a glimpse of the beautiful mamos. They are as
much a part of the Islands as the great volcano, and
to miss seeing one is as great a misfortune as failing
to see the other. In a large circular box of galvanised iron was a great number of small collars, with
patterns in black or scarlet feathers upon the dazzling
yellow ground. These were worn by the nobles
in attendance upon the chief. The larger mantles
were stored in long chests and kept under lock and
key. They were wound smoothly, without a crease
or crinkle, round long poles, and then covered with
many folds of some sort of native cloth, and tied so




I893-]


THE ROYAL MANTLES.


127


securely that it was a little difficult to unfasten them.
Like the kahilis, the mantles were made of the
yellow feathers of the oo (Acrulocercus nobilis). This
is a bird which is extremely rare, and lives in the
mountains of the islands of Hawaii and Maui, but
is not found on the island of Oahu. It is a small
bird, with a long, curved beak, and lives upon honey;
its plumage is black, changing to green, and under
each wing is a single small cluster of yellow
feathers.1 From these the royal mantles were made;
the birds were not destroyed, but were snared, the
costly feathers secured, and the bird was then set
free.  The foundation of each mantle was a lace-like
net made from the fibre of the olono, or native hemp,
and upon these the tiny yellow feathers, no larger
than those of a canary bird's plumage, had been
fastened one by one, making a smooth surface, dazzling as cloth of gold. The mantles of the chiefs
were several yards in length, and were carried by
train-bearers.  Lieutenant Laird said that even at
the low valuation of native labour each royal mantle
was worth over a million dollars, tribute being formally exacted in oo feathers, a few every year from
each subject. The mantles were carefully sunned
and aired at short intervals, tobacco being sprinkled
over them to prevent the ravages of insects. This
1 Professor Alexander states that the feathers of another bird, the
mamo (Drepanis pacifica), still rarer than the oo, were also used in
the manufacture of these mantles.




128      KING KALAKAUA'S PALACE.       [Ch. IX.
periodical cleaning is a most tedious process, and
must be done feather by feather. Among many
other wild rumours that had kept the natives in
a state of continual unrest-statements exaggerated and circulated by demagogues- was one to
the effect that these ahulas, from time immemorial the possession of the chiefs and kings of
Hawaii, were to become the property of the United
States and be removed to the Smithsonian Museum
in Washington.
"We have put our heads into the lion's mouth,
and must abide the consequences," said one man,
speaking of the prospective loss.
I assured him that I did not think for one moment
that the United States would molest the Hawaiian
people in a single right or privilege they now
enjoyed, least of all would they be deprived of their
State insignia and treasures - an assertion which I
am glad to say that time has fully verified.
After the kahilis and ahulas had been shownand in the collection I have forgotten to mention
three dusty silk hats with wide crape bands, survivals of King Kalakaua's funeral- the chests were
closed and fastened, and the doors were securely
locked behind us.
We were then conducted to the ex-Chamberlain's
private office. In the outer apartment were several
glass cases containing quantities of royal stationery
- cards, large and small - forms of invitation for




I893.]


DISUSED CROWNS.


I29


royal entertainments. Two were presented me as
souvenirs; the smaller, for less ceremonious occasions, had a narrow silver border, and the larger a
border of gold. The lettering, surmounted by the
Hawaiian coronet in scarlet and gold, was in gold
script and old English text.  The receptions to
which these cards were an open sesame were a thing
of the past - as much as the native feasts of Kamehameha. Upon the ex-Chamberlain's desk stood a
large calf-skin case with the name of a London firm
printed on one end. It looked somewhat like a
commonplace steamer trunk, though not so long; it
was unlocked, and lo! within were two crowns —
that of the King and the Queen of Hawaii. They
were the crowns that had been ordered by King
Kalakaua and made for him in London, and worn on
his coronation. The larger, that of the King, was
handed me, and I took it with the natural interest
one could not help feeling who holds in his hands
for the first time the bond fide coronet of a king,
though that king had been classified as a petty
sovereign. There was a cap of crimson velvet with
four converging bands of very thin gold, surmounted
by a small globe and a Maltese cross. The band
which passed round the forehead was studded with
opals and rubies, and above this at intervals were
crosses set with diamonds and other jewels. That
of the Queen was of the same pattern. Colonel
Robertson gave some order to his secretary which I
9




130      KING KALAKAUA'S PALACE.     [Ch. IX.


did not hear distinctly, and he disappeared and
presently returned with the sceptre and King Kalakaua's sword in its jewelled scabbard. The young
man was a native, and I fancied that there was an
expression of stern disapproval on his handsome face
when he surrendered the sceptre to me. I did not
see him smile, and his gravity was melancholy. Not
being of the Kamehamehas, as I have said, there
had been some lack of sympathy for the ex-Queen;
but the Hawaiians loved their country passionately,
and these were its signs and symbols, spread out
to the view of people to whom they had only an
abstract interest, and in which one could feel only,
perhaps, a passing curiosity.
When the coronets had been returned to the
leather case and the sceptre removed, the combination lock of the safe was unfastened, and case after
case of jewelled decorations were shown us. On each
was the letter "K," surmounted by the Hawaiian
coronet -the royal cipher. From Russia there was
a dazzling star of diamonds; another from Austria;
the gold cordon of St. Michael and St. George; the
cordon of the order instituted by Kalakaua himself
- a necklace of gold, the links interspersed with
Hawaiian crowns. From Pius IX. there was another star, this of silver, with jewels set in enamel,
bearing the legend around the rim in enamel letters,
" Virtuti et merito." This constituted the entire
collection, which reverted to the Provisional Govern



I893.]


THE FOURTH OF MARCH.


131


ment, and was held by it in custody and carefully
preserved.
We thanked Colonel Robertson and Lieutenant
Laird and passed out of the portico, the young
Hawaiian secretary amongst us.  Perhaps if the
young Hawaiian could have realised -as he may in
the future -how sincerely we, and I believe Americans generally, hoped that whatever might happen
should be ordained for the welfare of the people,
the cloud upon his brow would have been less heavy
and the fear within his heart dispelled. The Government of the United States had never dealt unjustly with the people of its acquired territory. It
was hardly probable that an exception would be
made in the case of Hawaii, should annexation become an established fact. The crowns and jewels,
the sceptre and the feathered mantles, would no more
have been taken forcibly from the people of the
Islands than would the colonial relics of Massachusetts have been removed from the Boston Museum
to Washington. They belonged to the country, and
there they would remain.
As I drove down the main avenue to the gates the
awkward squad of the volunteer troops was being
drilled; they wore no uniform, and in their cotton
shirts, trousers, and straw hats looked like a contingent of South American volunteers.
By a singular coincidence it was the 4th of March,
noon, in Honolulu, and I reflected that, far away in




132      KING KALAKAUA'S PALACE.     [Ch. IX.


Washington, President Cleveland had taken the
oath of office, and the inauguration services were
over hours ago. The new administration, at whose
hands Hawaii was destined to suffer much, had assumed control of political affairs in the United
States. How much depended upon the justice and
the wisdom of that administration all realised even
then; but what was destined to befall no one could
have imagined.
On Saturday evening, after this memorable visit
to the Palace, I had the pleasure of meeting Mr.
Francis Gay, who is the largest wool-grower in the
Hawaiian Islands. Mr. Gay was a Scotchman, and
was a member of the Legislature, familiar, as are all
old residents, with the political situation past and
present. When Mrs. Bishop was in Hawaii in I873
she visited their estate on the island of Kauai, and
gave a most interesting account of the family, whose
head was named Sinclair. They were of the best,
sturdy stock, and came from Scotland to New Zealand. After their arrival in New Zealand Mrs. Sinclair's husband was drowned, and she herself
assumed control of the estate, which she retained up
to the time of her death a few years ago. She was
a woman of great intellectual and moral force, a
student, a reader, requiring like application from all
her children and grandchildren, and was a financier
of marked ability. She would never consent to the
separation of her family, and when they outgrew the




I893.]  A SCOTTISH WOOL GROWER.


133


limits of their New Zealand estate it was sold, and
the indomitable woman embarked her possessions
and her descendants upon a ship which they owned,
and cruised through the Pacific in search of a new
home. They first went to Oregon; but as, Mr. Gay
told me, the laws of the territory would not permit
them to purchase a tract sufficiently large they returned to the Hawaiian Islands, at which they
touched, and where some of the family had been
temporarily left. King Kamehameha, recognising
their value as an accession to his people, offered
them the entire island of Niihau at a very moderate
price. The island, of seventy thousand acres, affords
good pasturage for twenty thousand sheep, and is
managed by overseers, the family having their residence on the adjacent island of Kauai, putting up
wooden houses which they had brought with them.
Mrs. Bishop relates that Mrs. Sinclair was called
"Mama" by the natives, who gave their services
once a month as an equivalent for rent. Here they
have lived, remote from the world, in this land of
eternal summer, embowered in flowers and the tropical vegetation about them, in the midst of their
books, enjoying the comfort and luxury of an ideal
if somewhat solitary life. Mrs. Sinclair, the venerated head of the household, was described by Mrs.
Bishop as a lady of the old Scotch type; very talented, bright, humorous, charming, with a definite
character which impressed itself upon everybody;




I34      KING KALAKAUA'S PALACE.     [Ch. IX.


beautiful in her old age; "disdaining that servile conformity to prevailing fashion which makes so many
old people at once ugly and contemptible; speaking
English with a slight, old-fashioned Scotch accent,
which gives naivet6 to everything she says, up to the
latest novelty in theology and politics; devoted to
her children and grandchildren, the life of the
family, and, though upwards of seventy, the first to
rise and the last to retire in the house. She was
away when I arrived," Mrs. Bishop continues, "but
some days after rode up to the house in a large,
drawn silk bonnet, which she rarely lays aside, as
light in her figure and step as a young girl, looking
as if she had walked out of an old picture or one of
Dean Ramsay's books."
Although more than fourteen years had elapsed
since Mrs. Bishop's visit, and the venerable woman
had gone to her reward, the family remained unbroken, and its members were everywhere recognised
and respected as people of superior character and
attainment. Mr. Gay, the grandson whom I met,
was a man in middle life, with a voice, countenance,
and manner of great mildness, frank, unaffected, and
straightforward in his conversation. He gave me
an invitation to visit the family on Kauai, but this,
with others of a similar nature, much to my regret,
had to be declined, both on account of continued
lameness and the unsettled state of affairs, not
knowing what might happen at any moment, which




I893.]


MR. GAY'S EXPERIENCES.


I35


made it impossible for me to go away from Honolulu. Mr. Gay was an unqualified annexationist.
He raised cattle as well as merino sheep, and had
large interests in both industries.
"I was a British subject," he said, "and have a
profound love for English institutions. Personally,
I would have preferred the protection of the English
flag, but it is not practicable.  The Hawaiian
Islands, by all the laws of right and nature, are in
sympathy with the United States, to whom they owe
their institutions and their civilisation.  People of
other nationalities here simply reaped the reward of
American enlightenment and Christianising. With
unrestricted commerce between the United States,
her markets freely open to us, our commercial and
national prosperity will be assured."
"What is your estimate of the Hawaiians politically? "
"They are unfitted even to govern themselves,
still more to govern others. I have lived all my life
amongst them, have grown up with them, and speak
their language as fluently as I speak my own.
They are indolent; they are ease-loving, cheerful,
generous, and amiable; but their judgment is very
imperfect; they are irresponsible, and possess very
little forethought. If the wants of the present are
provided for, even among the more intelligent, they
put aside every care for the future. They are the
most pliant of tools, and fatally susceptible to polit



136      KING KALAKAUA'S PALACE.     [Ch. IX.


ical corruption. Last year we sent a man to the
Legislature whom we believed we could trust implicitly, but he went over to the Queen's adherents,
undoubtedly bribed. It is perfectly impossible that
they should be able to form any estimate of the
needs of an intelligent and civilised country; many
of them, enfranchised citizens, privileged to vote
under the old Constitution, still live in the primitive
way, in huts, subsisting on fish and poi. It is true
that the majority can read and write, but their education rarely progresses beyond this; they are too
much indisposed toward any protracted or systematic
effort. It is useless to talk of elevating them or
fitting them for the exercise of authority. It has
been tried patiently for years, and they are more
incapable now than they were twenty years ago,
being influenced by a class whose association has
always been harmful, and never beneficial."
Reverting again to sheep-raising, Mr. Gay said
that the mutton produced on Hawaii was of good
quality, and the wool was such as is used in the
manufacture of fine worsteds. There is so little
fresh water on the island, that as the fleeces cannot
be washed in salt water the wool has to be exported
"in the dirt," as he expressed it. This increases
the bulk, and proportionately the cost of exportation.
"The United States is our natural market," he
said; "England has already an over-supply, and is
too far away. By the time we send our products to




1893.]  THE PROSPECTS OF HAWAII.


137


California, across the States, and the Atlantic, there
is no profit for the ranchman. Last year we sent a
good deal to Australia, and Canada is our best and
largest market, by the way of Vancouver and the
Canadian Pacific Railroad."
Mr. Gay was asked if wool-growing in Hawaii
would not conflict with the industry in the United
States.
"No," he replied. "Our territory is naturally so
limited that we can never engage in sheep-raising
on the extensive scale possible in America. We can
never be, in any important sense, a rival. But,"
he said in conclusion, "the commercial aspect is the
least consideration in the question.  The people
here have been very patient with a monarchy which
has gone from bad to worse. We have given up all
hope of improvement from this source, and we can
only rely upon annexation, complete and absolute,
either to England or to the United States, for stable
Government. I think, personally, that your election methods are very bad; they cannot be compared
to those that prevail in Great Britain, or the English
Colonies; but, notwithstanding this, the fitting and
natural disposition of the Hawaiian Islands is to
make them a part of the United States. The Government cannot and will not remain as it is. If
your country cannot take us, England will."




CHAPTER X.


THE PRESIDENT'S COMMISSIONER.
ON Thursday, March 9th, the Senate held its
second session, just five days after the inauguration of President Cleveland. They took immediate action upon a message in which Mr. Cleveland
recommended the withdrawal of the Hawaiian treaty
which had been approved by ex-President Harrison.
Recommending is perhaps a misleading term, as
Mr. Cleveland usually commanded, and his orders
were carried out in a manner much more like that
of an autocratic ruler than the representative of the
people, in office by their concurrence and their
suffrages.
Mr. Gresham, the recently chosen Secretary of
State, informed the Hawaiian Commissioner, the
Hon. L. A. Thurston, that, "with insignificant
knowledge of facts and of details, they desired time
for consideration of the subject, and the treaty had
been withdrawn for that purpose."
Subsequent action contradicted this, which was a
mere excuse to gain time.  There was never a
138




I893.] PRESIDENT CLEVELAND'S ACTION.  139


moment from the hour that they went into office
when both the President and his Secretary of State
were not bitterly hostile to the Provisional Government of the Hawaiian Islands and afterwards to the
Republic, because they had secured the sympathy
and co-operation of the ex-President, to whom both
Mr. Cleveland and Mr. Gresham were unfriendly.
The contemptuous setting aside of the testimony of
the five Commissioners who had been dispatched to
Washington at the time of the Revolution- five
men of tested integrity, uprightness, and disinterestedness - was part and parcel of what was to be
endured without cessation for the ensuing four years.
No one in the Islands had dreamed that the Hawaiian
Commissioners would meet with such a churlish
treatment at the hands of President Cleveland and
his Cabinet. Experience taught them, subsequently,
that they need expect no other.
When, however, the five men realised that argument was useless they desisted, and Mr. W. C. Wilder, one of their number, returned to Honolulu.
Before he arrived American newspapers were received, in which it was stated that the President was
about to appoint a Commission of three men, who,
it was thought, would be Judge Cooley, of Michigan,
a high authority in international law; Admiral
Brown, who had been for so many years a warm
friend of the natives; and General Schofield, of the
United States Army. It was supposed that this




140 THE PRESIDENT'S COMMISSIONER. [Ch. X.


Commission had been named by the President and
confirmed by the Senate, in conformity to the law in
such circumstances. Mr. Wilder returned on March
22nd, and there was much disappointment that he
had no definite news, the suspense by this time
having become most painful.  He reassured the
people, however, with every hope, which was corroborated later by the arrival of Mr. Marsden,
another of the Commission, who saw no cause for
anxiety in the withdrawal of the treaty.  It was
known that change of administration meant a change
in a large part of the officials of the entire United
States Government, and that Hawaii would have to
wait, very naturally, until this had been accomplished. It was also believed that the President
wished to act independently of his predecessor,
which would necessitate the negotiation of a new
treaty. The rumour of the appointment of three
Commissioners, all known to be men of ability and
without bias, seemed to corroborate this optimistic
view.
In the steamer with Mr. Marsden were Mr. Paul
Neumann, the Queen's attorney, whom she had dispatched to Washington on the heels of the Commission; Mr. John Bush, the editor of a native paper
which had been suppressed at one time and had been
particularly scurrilous in its attacks on the Queen
— the editor now posing as her friend; with Prince
David, a relative of the ex-Queen. The two latter




893-]1


GREAT EXPECTATIONS.


141


accompanied Mr. Neumann as far as San Francisco,
waiting the result of his mission to Washington, and
returning with him to Honolulu. All three seemed
well content with what they had accomplished, no
details of this, however, being given to the public.
They were received upon the deck of the steamer,
after she had been docked, with the wildest demonstrations, smothered with leis and driven to the exQueen's private residence. That evening there was
an open-air concert in the hotel grounds, at which
the Queen's band, the members of which had refused
to take the oath of allegiance to the Provisional
Government, appeared for the first time since her
retirement. The natives gathered from far and near,
those of high rank in little coteries on the steps and
verandahs of the hotel and in the lanais, while the
humbler folk stood in solid masses in the deep
shadow of the trees upon the lawn. All were in
gala dress, and each man, woman, and child wore
upon the hat and around the throat leis of marigolds
and tuberoses.
At the appearance of the band, handsome, slender
Hawaiians in suits of snow-white duck, shouts of
applause broke forth that became almost uncontrollable, when the familiar notes of Hawaiian melodies
filled the air. On the conclusion of the first number
armloads of leis were passed up to the musicians,
and a man pressed his way through the crowd loaded
with more leis of tuberoses, some of them two yards




142 THE PRESIDENT'S COMMISSIONER. [Ch. IX.


in length. The musicians sat down, and were
solemnly invested with these leis, which are in
reality a national decoration. The picturesque ceremony proceeded in silence; and in the soft blaze of
the coloured lights of the pavilion in which they
were grouped, with the tropical surroundings, the
dark-eyed, dark-skinned throng, clad in white and
garlanded with flowers, formed a memorable scene.
When the investiture was concluded a mighty
shout went up; the enthusiasm became overpowering,
and when it lulled the concert proceeded. It was
partly instrumental and partly vocal, the programme
concluding with a number given by a native quartette known as "King Kalakaua's Singing Boys."
Their contribution to the entertainment was a song
in Hawaiian, written for the occasion, in which the
missionaries and the Provisional Government were
soundly rated. The reception of this song was also
decidedly warm. The concert was followed by a ball,
at which all the prominent royalists were present; it
was pre-eminently a royalist evening, but there was
no expression of ill-will from either Hawaiians or
annexationists.
There was the same evening another native
demonstration. Hawaiian women are famous equestriennes, and Mrs. Bishop describes processions of
riders galloping along the seashore and up the
mountain roads, wearing the native riding-habit of
orange or scarlet streaming out on either side like




1893.]   THE U. S. ENVOY IN SIGHT.


I43


wings - for all, as they do to this day, rode astride
- barefooted and crowned with leis. These picturesque costumes had been abandoned for years, but
on the night of the concert they were unfolded,
taken out, and donned, and a company of riders
dashed along the main streets of Honolulu at a wild
gallop. It was the last flicker of the dying monarchy
- probably the last time that foreign eyes were to
behold a custom then in its decadence and soon to
be abandoned for ever.
The day following both the adherents of the exQueen and the supporters of the Provisional Government were destined to have their sanguine expectations severely shaken; for up to this time each had
been confident of triumphing. The natives construed - and rightly, as time proved - unfriendliness
to the Provisional Government in the withdrawal of
the treaty. On the other hand, President Dole and
his associates regarded the appointment of the Commission, which they confidently believed had been
named, as evidence of a desire to deal wisely and
impartially with Hawaii in the consideration of so
important a matter as annexation.
There is a telephone station on one of the headlands beyond the city, and when ships are sighted
the news is immediately telephoned to Honolulu.
At 9.30 on the morning of March 29th the Government offices and the American Legation were notified
that the U. S. cruiser Rush had been sighted. As




144 THE PRESIDENT'S COMMISSIONER. [Ch. IX.


if moved by a common impulse, the entire population
-at least the able-bodied portion of it - immediately resolved itself into a committee of reception,
and surged towards the wharf to watch the Rush
steam up the bay, and to be at hand when she came
up to the dock.
Every vessel in the harbour, which was crowded
with shipping, from the big Naniwa to the smallest
fishing-boat, suddenly displayed the American flag.
Nor were the streets of the city, business houses,
and public buildings forgotten; one could hardly
have imagined there was such a supply of bunting
in Honolulu. The annexationists, as soon as the
news of the Rush's arrival was confirmed, brought
out hundreds of flags, and, as if by magic, these
were grouped over doors and windows and wreathed
about the pillars of verandahs.
As the little Rush passed the Naniwa the latter
saluted, and the United States ship replied; it was
like the "yap" of a terrier echoing the deep bellow
of a stag hound.
The dock was thronged with Hawaiians, men,
women, and children, whose allegiance seemed
divided, for they wore both the American and
Hawaiian colours, and carried, of course, enormous
leis, white, red, and yellow, which made the whole
place smell like a garden. Along the edge of the
wharf was ranged a line of native women, representing the Hawaiian League; they were dressed in




I893.


MR. JAMES H. BLOUNT.


145


white, and the passage way left open through their
ranks for the guests, by which they were to reach
their carriages, was thickly strewn with roses. The
band, stationed on the deck of the mail steamer
Australia, which was about to sail, struck up an
American national air.
And then-then came an anti-climax that very
closely approached the ridiculous. Instead of the
dignified, affable, and courteous body of officials
that had been expected - representing the army, the
navy, and the judiciary of the United States - there
stepped ashore a commonplace, rather sullen-looking
man of sixty, clad in ill-fitting clothes of blue homespun and a Panama hat. Public expectation had been
roused to the highest pitch, and the revulsion of
feeling was instantaneous and painful.
This new arrival was Mr. James H. Blount, an
obscure Congressman from Macon, Georgia, who
was scarcely known outside Washington and beyond
the confines of his Georgian constituency. He had
been a colonel of a Georgian regiment during the
war, and in eighteen years of Congressional service
had done nothing to distinguish himself. He was a
man of upright life, but unpolished in manners; he
had never been outside of his own country before;
he knew nothing of people other than his own, except
such members or attaches of the various legations in
Washington as he might have met. He had not a
single attribute that fitted him for the delicate task
10




146  THS PRESIDENT'S COMMISSIONER. [Ch. X.


which had been placed in his incapable hands —
work that demanded the wisdom and knowledge of
the highest statesmanship, and all the courtesy and
finesse of the skilled diplomat. Mr. Cleveland had
made a wrong start from the very beginning, and he
was destined to go further and further astray, until
he should find himself in a political impasse, from
which he could only emerge - backwards.     Mr.
Blount had been made chairman of the Foreign
Affairs Committee of the fifty-second Congress, a
position he was about as competent to fill as a blind
man to hold a place where acute sight is a first
requisite. He came, not in accordance with the
sovereign will of the people, but of the sovereign
will of the people's servant, Mr. Cleveland, individually. The manner of the appointment was absolutely illegal, and nothing could have been more
offensive, both to Americans and to the Hawaiians,
than the insolent wording of his credentials. The
letter which President Cleveland sent to President
Dole, whom he was to address once more and with
even more irritating patronage, was as follows:
" GREAT AND GOOD FRIEND,- I have made choice of
James H. Blount, one of our distinguished citizens, as my
special Commissioner to visit the Hawaiian Islands, and
make report to me concerning the present status of affairs
in that country. He is well-informed of our sincere desire
to cultivate and maintain to the fullest extent the friendship
that has so long subsisted between the two countries, and




I893.]  MR. BLOUNT'S CREDENTIALS.


I47


in all matters affecting relations of the Government of the
Hawaiian Islands. His authority is paramount. My knowledge of his high character and ability gives me entire confidence that he will use every endeavour to advance the
interest and prosperity of both Governments, and to render
himself acceptable to your Excellency.
" I therefore request your Excellency to receive him favourably, and to give full credence to what he shall say on
the part of the United States, and the assurances which
I have charged him to convey to you of the best wishes
of this Government for the prosperity of the Hawaiian
Islands.  May God have your Excellency in his wise
keeping!
"Written at Washington, this  tth day of March, in the
year 1893.
"(Signed) GROVER CLEVELAND.
"By the President:
" W. J. GRESHAM, Secretary of State."
Mr. Blount also carried with him a letter to Mr.
Stevens, the duly accredited United States Minister
to Hawaii, who had been named by Mr. Cleveland's
predecessor, and whose appointment had been properly confirmed by Congress. He was informed that,
by a stroke of the pen, the Georgia Congressman
had been invested with paramount authority, and
that the individual will of Mr. Cleveland had superseded that of the Government - a high-handed usurpation of executive and judiciary authority that had
no parallel in the history of the Government. He




148 THE PRESIDENT'S COMMISSIONER. [Ch. X.


was named by the President personally to speak for
the United States -without any more real authority,
so to speak, than the humblest Government clerk in
Washington. Even Mr. Cleveland's friends were
aghast at such egotism and lawlessness, and acknowledged that "the President had gone a little too
far."
The United States Consul, Mr. Henry M. Severance, with a party of representatives of the Provisional Government, had gone out in a launch to
meet the Rush.   Mr. Blount's treatment of the
entire party was most uncivil. To Mr. Severance
his manner was churlish.  The Consul at once
placed the documents in the Consulate at Mr.
Blount's disposal, a polite offer which the Commissioner received by promptly turning his back upon
the representative of the United States.  Others
were made to feel the great man's disfavour in a
similar manner. The papers of the Consulate so
obligingly offered to Mr. Blount were never examined; the Consul so ready to render him assistance
was never questioned; yet the President's Commissioner quoted him in the so-called "report" which he
afterwards returned to Mr. Cleveland-the ex-parte
testimony he was sent out to collect. A great deal
of the evidence like that relating to Mr. Severance
was purely "hearsay," which would not have been
accepted as credible in the most corrupt court in
Christendom.




1893.]    A SAD DISAPPOINTMENT.           149
This was the beginning. The Provisional Government was quick to realise that Mr. Blount was no
friend, and they were chilled and rebuffed. The
American Minister and the Consul, Mr. Blount's
official superiors, were openly humiliated and discredited. Mr. Blount was of the South, and he was
one of the unreconciled advocates of the "Lost
Cause," who had not been able to forget that, during
the Civil War, the Islands had sympathised with the
North, had opposed slavery, sent recruits to aid in
the preservation of the Union, and raised supplies
for the U. S. Sanitary Commission, in the ardour
of their sympathy. The Americanism of the people
rankled, and it continued to rankle to the last.




CHAPTER XI.


THE LOWERING OF THE AMERICAN FLAG.
THE demonstration of the Hawaiian League,
apparently, was not altogether appreciated by
the Commissioner. He gave no indication of being
pleased either by the reception tendered him or by
anything else. He drove at once to Snow Cottage,
a bungalow attached to the Royal Hawaiian Hotel,
which at the time was partially let to adherents of
the Queen, and during the entire time of Mr.
Blount's occupancy was a royalist rendezvous.
Along with the discourteous message which Mr.
Blount was commissioned to deliver to the American
Minister, whose authority the obscure Congressman
had been instructed to usurp, one equally contemptuous was delivered to Admiral Skerrett, in command of the Pacific Squadron, whose flag-ship, the
Mohican, with the cruiser Alliance, had been ordered
to join the Boston at Honolulu. The old admiral,
who had grown grey in the service of his country, to
which he had given the best years of his strength
and his youth, was notified that "he was to consult
150




I893.]


THE ANNEXATION CLUB.


I5I


freely with Mr. Blount and obey any instructions
he might receive from him regarding the course to
be pursued in the Islands by the force under his
command."
Professor Alexander in his official report to the
United States Senate mildly observed upon this
point: "The question whether the President had a
constitutional right to clothe his private agent,
appointed without the knowledge or confirmation of
the Senate, with these extraordinary powers has been
fully debated in Congress." And it might be added,
it was one of the most stirring debates in which that
body ever engaged, even in the troubled days of
fugitive slave law agitation, or during the four years
of the Civil War. It was boldly declared that the
Executive Chief merited impeachment, which he
certainly would have suffered at the hands of any
other people less lenient than his own.
In the evening at eight o'clock the Annexation
Club called upon Mr. Blount, and the Commissioner
was informed that the organisation had a membership
of two thousand, representing the respectability,
intelligence, and material interests of Honolulu.
The need of a strong, stable Government was
pointed out as necessary to save the community both
from internal discord and from foreign interference,
and the time was anticipated when Hawaii would
become a part of the Republic.  Mr. Blount's
appointment by President Cleveland was a matter of




152 LOWERING OF THE AMERICAN FLAG. [Ch. XI.


congratulation -a hasty conclusion which the Annexation Club was destined to reverse -and they
felt confident that, upon careful inquiry into the situation, the fact would be disclosed that the establishment of the Provisional Government had been a
matter of necessity, of duty performed in the interest
of civilisation.  The head of the recent Government had disavowed the obligations with which the
Constitution of I887 had invested her, and had
announced her intention to rule by royal proclamation, and not by law. The establishment of the
Provisional Government, therefore, was the only
course that remained to the people. The speaker,
Dr. J. S. McGrew, a resident of the Islands for more
than forty years and president of the club, said in
conclusion: "It is the hope of the members of this
association that a treaty of annexation may soon be
accomplished between Hawaii and the United States,
which, while securing all the safeguards of a free
and stable Government to all the natives - aboriginal Hawaiians, as well as to those of foreign ancestry-will bring no burdens upon the United
States, but, on the contrary, be a source of additional strength and satisfaction."
Mr. Blount's reply to this dignified, straightforward, and truthful presentation of the situation was
peevish and petty. He said impatiently: "Gentlemen, you will readily understand I can make no
reply to this address. My negotiations will be con



1893.] MR. STEVENS, THE U. S. MINISTER. 153


ducted entirely with your Government." Then he
added, as an after-thought, "I am pleased, however,
to meet you."
He had listened with stolid indifference, and his
manner belied the latter assertion. The Annexation
Club departed in no very cheerful frame of mind.
The same evening the President was notified that
the American flag, which had been temporarily
raised over the Government buildings, would be
lowered the following morning, at eleven o'clock.
It has been said that the American Minister received
no notification, but accidentally heard what was to
happen from a neighbour, which, if true, was a
gratuitous insult, from which his office, his long
and honourable public service, his old age, and his
grey hairs should have protected him.
There was just at that time a reason for especial
sympathy and consideration. Mr. Stevens was a
native of Maine; he had been a friend of Mr. Lincoln, and had held many important diplomatic posts
in Europe. He strikingly resembled Mr. Lincoln,
and with his knowledge of affairs, his liberal education, and his long residence abroad, he was a man of
admirable manner and address.
He occupied a very unpretentious house on Nunanu
Street with his wife and two daughters. One of
these daughters had acted for many years as her
father's private secretary. She was his almost inseparable companion, and he relied greatly upon her




154 LOWERING OF THE AMERICAN FLAG. [Ch. XI.


aid and counsel. The Boston was ordered to Hilo
for target practice, and Mr. Stevens and his daughter went on the ship as the guests of the officers.
They were entertained in Hilo by Mr. Luther Severance, a brother of the American Consul in
Honolulu.
The Islands, in the country as well as in the towns
and villages, are a network of telephone wires, and
communication is maintained in this way between
remote plantations.
As the Minister and his daughter were preparing
to go on board the Boston to return to Honolulu
some one called Miss Stevens over the telephone.
It was a friend on a plantation on the opposite side
of Hawaii, whom she had promised to visit, and
she was reminded of the promise. Miss Stevens
replied, asking to be excused, as she felt that she
must return with her father, who could not spare
her to make the visit at that time.  The lady
urgently repeated the invitation, and, contrary to the
advice of the officers of the Boston, Miss Stevens
decided to remain in Hilo and take one of the small
inter-island steamers to Hamakua, where her friend
resided.
She was reminded how dangerous the landing was
at that point; but she still determined to remain,
and the Boston sailed back to Honolulu without her.
She landed in safety, but upon re-embarking for
Honolulu the sea was unusually rough, but she was




,893.]


A DOMESTIC TRAGEDY.


I55


lowered into the boat below without accident, when
the boat was caught by a wave, dashed against the
rocks, and broken into splinters. It was thought
that Miss Stevens died of heart disease induced by
the shock, and not from being crushed against the
cliffs. The body was recovered, prepared for burial,
and reverently and tenderly laid upon the table in
the saloon of the little steamer, and taken back to
Honolulu.  As there are no cables between the
Islands it was impossible to inform the Minister of
the terrible bereavement he had sustained.  The
revolution had come without any premonition upon
the return of the Boston to Hilo, and he was harassed
and anxious with the grave duty which he had had
to perform. The sister, wholly unconscious of what
had happened, went down to the dock with a party
of friends to meet the steamer.
A messenger was sent ashore to inform her what
had happened, and proper notice was sent to the
family.  The body was then taken home.   All
through the night, when the daughter lay in her
coffin in the drawing-room, taken from him without
an instant's warning, in the vigour of life and health,
the heart-broken father sat writing the official dispatches, which the steamer, sailing the following
noon, must convey to San Francisco, for immediate
transmission to the State Department.  One can
believe that it was no ordinary self-control and fortitude that enabled him to pass through such an




156 LOWERING OF THE AMERICAN FLAG. [Ch. XI.


ordeal. It was, then, this old and heart-broken man
whom Mr. Blount had been commissioned to discredit and publicly humiliate. One would have
thought that such sorrow would have been sacred to
any one possessed of the commonest human instincts.
Mr. Blount was accompanied to Hawaii by his wife,
but neither was much in evidence that evening at
the hotel where their meals were served. So far
as the public was concerned there was not the
slightest hint as to his proposed plan of action.
President Dole had considered it prudent to withhold the notification he had received from all but the
Cabinet and the Advisory Council, as it was uncertain what might occur when the Hawaiian flag was
hoisted. It was certainly a tempting opportunity
for the natives, who greatly outnumbered the annexationists, to rally, and by a coup de main restore the
monarchy in substance with the restoration of its
symbol. I had gone to my breakfast in the general
dining-room of the hotel, and saw in the morning
paper, lying beside my plate, staring head-lines
announcing the lowering of the American flag at
eleven o'clock. I was thunderstruck; the entire
city was in the wildest state of excitement.
If the rebuff of the five Hawaiian Commissioners;
the summary withdrawal of the treaty upon Mr.
Cleveland's succession to office; the high-handed
disregard of the Senate and their appointment of a
proper commission of investigation for the United




1893-.


A DAY OF LAMENTATION.


I57


States, had been condoned, this could not be considered other than a determination of the President
to refuse his support to the Provisional Government,
and eventually to withdraw American protection.
And this, time proved, was a correct estimate of his
course.
The feeling that prevailed among the annexationists in Honolulu could be compared to that felt by
the citizens of the North the day when Fort Sumter had been fired upon - a day of lamentation and
anguish that tried men's souls. Those of the natives-by no means a majority —who sympathised
with the Queen were at first elated; but they realised the gravity of the situation, and made no open
demonstration.  The friends of the Provisional
Government were of two minds: one was still
bravely hoping for the best, and meeting the crisis
with an unruffled front; the other, less confident,
made but little effort to conceal dejection and
despair.
"Royalty shall not be restored," was the common
declaration. "We have tried it again and again;
we have nothing to hope from it, and the time has
now come when we will stand shoulder to shoulder;
the United States refuses to protect us, and we will
protect ourselves."
At ten o'clock the hotel was quite empty, and a
stream of people, very different in their uneasiness
and fear to the multitudes the day before, streamed




158 LOWERING OF THE AMERICAN FLAG. [Ch. XI.


steadily in the direction of the Government buildings.  There had been three hundred additional
police sworn in early that morning, and there were
many more volunteers than could be supplied with
arms to aid in preserving order.
At half-past ten I called a carriage and drove to
Camp Boston, to learn if it were true that Captain
Swinburne and his company had been ordered on
board the Boston. It was a beautiful day, the sun
shining brightly, the blue sky without a cloud, the
palms stirring in the breeze. Everything about the
premises indicated immediate evacuation.  There
were heaps of baggage, beds, tents, and other portable property piled upon the verandah in charge of
the Japanese servants. Sentinels were still pacing
to and fro before the east and west gates; the
marines were drawn up in line, along the front
wall, while the officers were moving about issuing
orders. I accosted one of the sentinels and asked
to see an officer.  The blue-coat saluted, and an
instant later Lieutenant Laird courteously presented
himself.
"Is it true that you are ordered to go on board?"
I asked.
"Our orders are to march out of here promptly at
eleven o'clock."
"Do you know the reason?"
"It is only another move on the chessboard. We
are acting under orders, and have no further instruc



1893-]


AN ANXIOUS MOMENT.


159


tions," and he touched his cap and re-entered the
gate.
At the Government buildings, a stone's throw
beyond the camp, the stars and stripes floated from
the staff on the tower, an added touch of colour
in the tropical landscape, and vividly outlined
against the sky.
A vast assemblage and a most characteristic one
had gathered -Americans, Europeans, stolid Japanese and Chinese, Hawaiians -the women in holokus
and loaded with leis. The native and Oriental population crowded the sidewalk across the road in
front of the Palace; the Americans and Europeans
were collected in the grounds or upon the pavement
adjoining. All talked in subdued tones, and the
most decorous order was preserved. Among the
American women present was one who sat in her
carriage looking on and weeping passionately. She
exclaimed, -
"They may lower it from the tower, but it shall
float over my house as long as I have life and breath
to keep it there!"
As the minute hand of the clock moved slowly
forward every eye was riveted on the flag, -the
Hawaiians half exultingly, yet anxiously; the American and foreign Hawaiians (whites born in the
Islands), and those who had cast in their lot with
them, waiting with set lips and rigid countenances.
By this time there was little talking, the silence




I60 LOWERING OF THE AMERICAN FLAG. [Ch. XI.


increasing as the seconds slipped away. The flag
tossed and fluttered from its height upon the tower,
as if it were a sentient thing, realising that it was
soon to be cast down, and with it the hope of thousands of anxious hearts who had placed upon it their
reliance and their faith.
A detachment of thirty marines, under command
of Lieutenant Draper, who for two months had been
guarding the building, was still on duty. They had
been completing their preparations for departure,
and were fully accoutred in cartridge-belts, canteens,
and knapsacks. It had been Mr. Blount's intention
to haul down the flag with the same disrespect that
he had shown in his treatment of the American
Minister. President Dole, quietly, though quite
unconsciously, defeated this intention. It became,
instead of a shambling, furtive effort to display spite
and contempt, a ceremonial so thrilling and dramatic
that those who witnessed it will never forget it. At
ten minutes to eleven President Dole, accompanied
by S. M. Damon, Minister of the Interior, Robert
Porter (Minister of Finance), W. O. Smith (AttorneyGeneral), and General Soper (in command of the Provisional Government troops), descended the front
steps of the building, and took his position immediately behind the statue of Kamehameha I. They
stood with uncovered heads, and their faces and their
demeanour were exceedingly grave. After the briefest interval of waiting there was a subdued stir in the




1893.]


THE FLAG LOWERED.


I6I


street outside the gate; then the crowd gave way;
there was a quick tread of marching feet, and immediately the sharp word of command, " Forward, fours
right, fours left into line, halt! "
It was a company of volunteer soldiers called out
to reinforce the Government troops.
The latter were placed around the circular drive
to the right of General Soper (who was in command),
the President, and his Cabinet, while the volunteers
faced them. The battery, Company D, had previously taken its position so as to command the space
in front of the building: this battery was largely
composed of Germans, commanded by Captain Ziegler, also of German birth, as his name would imply.
One of the Gatling guns was drawn by citizens, who
had not taken up arms, among them a tailor, an
apothecary, and a number of artisans and merchants.
The volunteers marched into the grounds with beating drums and to the sound of the fife. While they
stood waiting there was an ominous movement; the
machine guns were shifted to a somewhat better position, and the gunners took their place in readiness
beside them. All this had occurred in less than five
minutes, for there was no dallying and no delay.
At 10. 56 a marine, stationed on top of the tower,
approached the parapet and glanced down upon the
scene below. Then he drew back and waited motionless beside the flag-staff. The hands of the clock
moved forward relentlessly. The people stood in
II




162 LOWERING OF THE AMERICAN FLAG. [Ch. XI.


silence like images of stone —the President, the
Cabinet, the marines, and the Government troops
all ready to anticipate the first sign of riot. The
order was given, "Sound off," and as the notes of
the bugle rang out the flag slipped from the fastening.  For an instant the empty lines beat idly
against the staff; then General Soper's voice broke
the silence, clear and distinct, "Present arms!"
There was another gleam of colour, and the Hawaiian
flag crawled up the now taut ropes, and shook itself
free, its blue, white, and crimson bars floating in
their accustomed place. There was an unexpected
pause; but the silence was undisturbed. The troops
of the Provisional Government presented arms, but
the American men-of-war in the harbour did not
salute the restored flag, as they had their own.
Throughout the entire scene not a voice had been
heard save that of the commanding officer; but when
the Hawaiian flag first caught the breeze a grizzled
native near my carriage, who had been watching
with almost breathless intensity, broke into a hoarse
cry. Quick as a flash a black, muscular hand seized
him by the shoulder, and he was forcibly silenced
-not by a foreigner, but by one of his own race.
The guns of the battery were left in position, and
the marines, under command of Lieutenant Draper,
marched down the street escorted by a detachment
of Provisional Government infantry. They were not
followed by a crowd such as would have collected in




1893.] END OF AMERICAN PROTECTORATE. I63


London or in an American city, but, comparatively
unattended, turned in at the east gate at Camp
Boston, where they joined their comrades, who, still
drawn up in a line, were waiting for them. Without a moment's delay they were ordered to " march,"
and at the word of command they faced about,
passed through the east gate into the street, moving
toward the dock to the familiar strains of "The Girl
I Left Behind Me."
Thus Mr. Blount's first official order was obeyed,
and the semblance of an American protectorate came
to an end.
The day was naturally one of great anxiety and
excitement, all the more intense because it was
suppressed. I returned to the hotel, and visitors
came and went all the afternoon; my piazza became
a sort of Hawaiian forum for the discussion of what
had just occurred and of what next might be anticipated from the Administration.
The known enmity between the Secretary of State
and ex-President Harrison, growing out of years of
political rivalry, was regarded as unfavourable to
the cause of annexation; many incidents in the
political career of both men were recalled which
were considered sufficient grounds for apprehension,
and it was afterwards proved that these anticipations
were not imaginary.
Mr. Blount did not show himself at the Government buildings during the dramatic scene of the




164 LOWERING OF THE AMERICAN FLAG. [Ch. XI.


morning; he had the discretion and delicacy to
remain in retirement -discretion and delicacy that
might have served him to his great advantage, had
he exhibited these qualities when they were subsequently required. All the afternoon he was visited
by friends and adherents of the Queen, and presented with gifts of flowers, wreaths being thrown
about his neck as he passed along the street-an
attention, however, which I am forced to admit he
neither desired nor relished.
Among his visitors in the evening was a committee from a body of Hawaiians known as "The
Patriotic League," who presented an address, and of
which Mr. John E. Bush, the partisan editor, acted
as spokesman. Their reception was very different
from that accorded the Annexation Club the evening
before, and they were assured by Mr. Blount that the
United States did not approve of its representatives
"meddling in the conduct of the government of
foreign countries."
The streets were practically deserted early in the
evening, people remaining quietly within their
houses.




CHAPTER XII.


VIOLATED CORONETS.
AFTER the removal of the flag from the Government building the people gradually settled
down into a calm acceptance of the situation, hoping for the best. They had no intimation of their
impending fate from the inscrutable Mr. Blount.
He preserved a silence that ought to have become
historical - it was so rare and phenomenal in the
annals of loquacious politics.
The week following the flag episode I had a decidedly amusing experience.  My newspaper correspondence had been finished, down to the recording
of the latest scrap of rumour, and I was enjoying a
well-earned hour of rest. A card was brought, and
the bell-boy - a Portuguese product of the Azores
- informed me that my caller was the ex-Chief of
Police. I was prepared for anything, and so received
my visitor with a composed mien, seated comfortably in my steamer chair on the balcony, with my
crutches within reach. He was tall, red-haired, and
most polite. He apologised for intruding upon me,
165




I66


VIOLATED CORONETS.


[Ch. XII.


but had been told that I had recently seen King
Kalakaua's coronet, from which it had just been
discovered that the jewels had been stolen.  I admitted that this was true, and that the date was
March 4th, which I remembered because it happened
to be Inauguration Day.
"Were the crowns taken out of trunks, and were
the trunks locked?"
" They were in small sole-leather cases, and, while
I cannot positively affirm it, I think that both cases
were locked." I had noted the extreme care with
which everything had been put away and secured;
the feather cloaks were packed in a chest securely
fastened, the door of the room in which the chests
were placed being also locked. The decorations,
some of which were very valuable, were taken from
a safe which was unlocked and locked again before
us.
"What was the condition of the crowns?"
"One large stone was gone, I noticed, and two or
three small ones."
"The large stone was lost several years ago," said
the policeman.
Then he asked me if I was a judge of diamonds.
I replied modestly that I was not a connaisseuse,
but that those in the King's crown did not impress
me as being of much value; the opals and the few
rubies were rather good, and the metal-work; the
gold bands in which they were set, with the orna



i893.]


THE CROWNS ARE STOLEN.


I67


mentation of taro leaves, were more pleasing than
the jewels. The good-natured official then wanted
to know if jewellers were in the habit of putting
tinfoil behind diamonds when they were set, if the
stones were good; and I replied gravely that I did
not think so. Then he asked if I thought the
jewels could be very valuable, when the entire
crown, metal, filigree, workmanship, and all cost
only $5,000.
"Besides," he said, "there was the maker's profits.
He was a Hebrew, and he got all it was worth out of
it, you bet."
It was rather an embarrassing statement, which I
did not answer immediately, and the comment as to
the maker's thrift I also prudently passed over.
"I am sorry that any reflection as to carelessness
should have been cast upon Colonel Robertson," I
said; "for both coronets were carefully cared for
when I was permitted to see them."
Then I could not help reflecting that I had little
expected ever to be called upon to testify concerning
the exact condition of a king's coronet when I had
last examined it; but that was only one of many
unexpected things that happened after my arrival in
Hawaii. I made some observation to this effect.
"Yes," remarked my caller, with an instantaneous
appreciation of the humorous side of the case, "it is
a queer country, hain't it?"
He admitted that it was a mystery which he could




i68


VIOLATED CORONETS.


[Ch. XII.


not unravel, because the crown of the QueenDowager Kapiolani had been left untouched, but he
believed that the thief had been some emissary of
the ex-Queen, which proved to be an error. The
culprit was subsequently found and arrested. He
was a private soldier in the volunteers, a worthless
character, who had hung about the town without any
visible means of support. Dropping the subject, the
ex-Chief of Police then politely inquired as to my
health.
"I hated to bother you," he said apologetically,
"because I know you are an invalid."
"No," I interrupted, by way of reassuring him
and setting him at his ease, "only temporarily disabled -not an invalid."
He took his departure, expressing a hope that I
might be able to walk within the near future, and
he apologised once more for having intruded upon
me. I again assured him that it was no intrusion,
and regretted that I was unable to furnish him no
better clue that might aid him in the recovery of the
lost crown.
Within the past week a mongrel mastiff, literally
a yellow dog, a trifle smaller than a calf, had taken
up his abode in the Hawaiian Hotel; he fared luxuriously on tid-bits from the kitchen, and had two
staunch adherents in the Portuguese bell-boys. He
properly valued the good fortune that had befallen
him, and jealously guarded the territory he had




I893.]


A DOG FIGHT.


I69


acquired. That evening a black dog, his equal in
size and strength, invaded his domain, and there
was such an encounter as the Hawaiian Hotel had
rarely witnessed. The rivals met in the main corridor, and without a moment's hesitation fell upon one
another furiously. There were yells and growls and
roars, with clinching and biting that were terrible
to witness. It sounded as if a menagerie had broken
loose. It was a deed of prowess to attempt to separate the combatants, and most of the guests took
refuge in the dining-room or on the stairs.
From a safe point of vantage one of the newspaper
correspondents looked down upon the conflict and
remarked, "That's the first real fight I have seen
since the Revolution began."
The next morning at dawn I was awakened by the
chattering of two Chinamen, fruit-vendors, who had
seated themselves under my window, waiting for the
cook to make his appearance in the kitchen. Their
thin, high-pitched voices disturbed me, and I rang
for the night clerk, Wing -also a Chinaman. As
he rapped against the venetian blinds of my door I
rose and went to speak to him. Turning the blind,
I looked out, and there stood the "boy" with the
yellow dog standing demurely by his side; the
brute had a rope, something smaller than a hawser,
around his neck, the loose end trailing on the floor
of the verandah. After giving my orders as to the
talkative Chinamen I asked Wing, "What is the




17o


VIOLATED CORONETS.


[Ch. XII.


matter with the dog? Have you had to tie him up? "
Wing smiled pensively, and replied with significant
terseness, " He go for milkman!"
The following night we were treated to one more
of the many studies in ethnology which we had
already enjoyed. The band was giving a concert in
honour of the departure of the Mariposa in the
pavilion on the hotel lawn. In the midst of the
"Miserere" the sound of a drum   was heard in
the distance, and there was an evident commotion
down the street!
" Another crisis!" was the unanimous exclamation.
But the crowd advanced without any hostile
demonstration, sweeping up the drive, passed the
verandah, out again into the street.  The band
ceased playing, then recovered itself, and as they
departed with commendable delicacy and feeling
struck up a Hawaiian march. It was a company of
Samoan dancers en route to the World's Fair. They
carried the paddles with which they navigate their
canoes, and were clad in tapa robes, their heads
covered with white cloths, in lieu of the application
of lime, which is the Samoan method of hair-dressing
for State occasions. They were to give a national
dance at the Opera House, and public entertainments were so rare that there was a general stampede
of guests to the place of amusement, the ladies not
taking time even to put on their hats. A bond-fide
theatrical company at that time was very rarely seen




I893.]      A GENERAL HOLIDAY.            171
in Honolulu, although a number of companies have
since stopped and given performances on their way
to and from Australia. At the time mentioned,
however, the advent of any sort of show was an event.
A negro minstrel troupe had arrived a short time before in a ship en route to Sydney from San Francisco,
and remained in harbour for one day. In the afternoon they gave a performance, and there was a general suspension of business. The shops were closed,
and everybody went to the show, except of course the
ultra-religious missionary element.




CHAPTER XIII.


THE PRINCESS KAIULANI.
W    HILE all this had occurred the Princess Kaiulani had not been a disinterested looker-on.
The ex-Queen had never been well-disposed towards
the young girl whom she had been forced to name
as her successor.
Kaiulani had lived for some time in England in
the family of Mr. Theophilus Davies, an English
merchant who owned large estates and warehouses
in Honolulu, where he resided only a part of the
time. The young Princess had received the education of an English gentlewoman; young, graceful,
refined and attractive, during the monarchy her
rank was properly recognised by Queen Victoria - a
recognition, however, which of necessity ceased
with the possibility of her succession to the Hawaiian
throne.
Parliament almost at once announced its intention
not to interfere in Hawaiian affairs, considering the
interests of British subjects in the Islands quite safe
under the protection of the Provisional Government
and the United States. This, no doubt, was a blow
172




I893.]


THE PRINCESS' APPEAL.


173


to the English guardian of the Princess, and, finding
it useless to expect support at home, he proceeded
to Washington with his Hawaiian ward, ostensibly
to appeal to Congress and the President.
It was in reality an opportunity for an effective
theatrical pose which would catch the fickle sympathy of the ignorant, and furnish some sort of an
excuse to the Administration for the discreditable
course it had elected to pursue.
Personally, the young Princess was a charming
and interesting character; she gave a certain picturesqueness to the little drama, appearing upon the
scene just at the proper moment, as the conventional
heroine should, gently appealing to the American
people for redress and protection in the maintenance
of her rights.
The American, it is well known, is easily moved
by any appeal from womanhood wronged or distressed.
That the presence of the young Hawaiian girl in
Washington made no impression on the public mind
was proof that the people were not disposed to take
seriously her demand that the monarchy be restored,
and that she should be placed upon the throne as the
successor of the ex-Queen Liliuokalani. In the first
place, whatever the views of the President might
have been, it was believed that a government
pledged to the maintenance of democracy could not
consistently lend its aid to the building up of a
fallen monarchy; and, in the second place, however




THE PRINCESS KAIULANI. [Ch. XIII.


pure and disinterested her motives might have been,
no human power could have prevented the Princess
Kaiulani from being a helpless tool in the hands of
men who had controlled King Kalakaua and abetted
the ex-Queen in her conspiracies against the Government. Men like President Dole, like the AttorneyGeneral, Mr. Smith, born and reared in the Islands,
who had strenuously advocated their autonomy as
long as there was any hope, saw no advantage to be
gained in the proclamation of the Princess as Queen,
nor any immunity in such succession from the inherent evils of a thoroughly corrupt system. A
Regency with Mr. Dole at its head had been proposed for the three years that must elapse before
Kaiulani attained her majority.
She left Liverpool with Mr. Davies, February
22nd, and arrived in New York a week later, where
she at once published in the daily newspapers an
appeal to the American people. It was known that,
with many graces and accomplishments, the young
Princess had not the pen of a ready writer. The
composition of the address, as sentimental as a
school-girl's essay or an elegant extract from an
old-fashioned three-volume novel, was therefore
supposed to be the work of her guardian. At any
rate, it was couched in the following remarkable
language:
"To THE AMERICAN PEOPLE,-Unbidden I stand upon
your shores to-day, where I thought so soon to receive a




1893.] THE PRINCESS IN WASHINGTON.


royal welcome on my way to my own kingdom. I come
unattended, except by loving hearts that came with me over
the wintry seas. I hear that Commissioners from my own 
land have been for many days asking this great nation
to take away my little vineyard. They speak no word to
me, and leave me to find out as I can from rumours in the
air, and they would leave me without a home or a name or
a nation. Seventy years ago America sent over Christian
men and women to give religion and civilisation to Hawaii.
They gave us the Gospel. They made us a nation, and we
learned to love and trust America. To-day three of the
sons of those missionaries are at your capital, asking you
to undo their fathers' work. Who sent them? Who gave
them their authority to break the Constitution which they
swore they would uphold?
"To-day I, a poor, weak girl, with not one of my people
near me, and with all these Hawaiian statesmen against me,
have strength to stand up for the rights of my people. Even
now I can hear a wail in my heart, and it gives me strength
and courage, and I am strong - strong in the faith of God,
strong in the knowledge that I am right, strong in the
strength of seventy million people, who in this free land will
hear my cry, and will refuse to let their flag cover dishonour
to mine.
"(Signed) KAIULANI."
Very pretty; but not susceptible of careful analysis.  The Constitution which Mr. Davies, over the
signature of the Princess, charged the Hawaiian
Commissioners with violating had been already




176      THE PRINCESS KAIULANI. [Ch. XIII.


abrogated by the Princess's relative, the ex-Queen;
there was no Constitution to violate, except such
remnants as the "sons of the missionaries" had
managed to preserve.  Furthermore, the fact that
there "was not one of her people near her" was a
self-ordained bereavement on the part of the young
Princess.  She had voluntarily separated herself
from them: she had gone away and remained away
for several years wholly of her own volition, and
the loneliness which she lamented appealed more to
sentiment than to common intelligence.
She was in Washington on the 4th of March, a
pretty and graceful figure in the heterogeneous multitude drawn together by the Inauguration. Mr.
Cleveland was doubtless glad that she had come;
she was of herself, as I have said, a partial reason
and excuse for his subsequent conduct. She was
warmly received at the White House by Mrs.
Cleveland, in whom she found something more than
the ordinary sympathetic hostess. She played her
part like a pretty marionette, directed by her guardian, keeping silent or speaking when and as he
advised, and following his guidance implicitly in all
matters. He had never been credited with profound
intellectual force, and the real intelligence that had
planned the little side-play was probably that of the
ex-Queen's attorney, Mr. Neumann.
At any rate, having delivered her "appeal"
through the medium of the press, having been intro



I893.]


A FAREWELL APPEAL.


duced to the President and Mr. Gresham, and having
won the confidence and enlisted the sympathy of
Mrs. Cleveland, she returned to England over the
same wintry seas and accompanied by the same
loving hearts. Before her departure she issued another, and this time a "farewell," manifesto. Of
this, unfortunately, I have no copy; but as it no
doubt emanated from the same facile hand, the redundancies of metaphor and " its pathos that was not
pathos," to quote Robert Louis Stevenson, can be
readily inferred.
The matter created no interest in Honolulu. The
" appeal" was laughed at because the authorship was
guessed, and the only comment was, "Kaiulani
never wrote it; she could n't "- which, whatever
interpretation might be put upon the declaration,
was a compliment to her intelligence.


12




CHAPTER XIV.


THE CHINESE POPULATION.
HONOLULU, as I have said before, is the Paradise of the Chinaman. Here he has his little
shop, his own quarter, his laundry, or he works upon
the plantations, the stolid image of patience, with
no one to molest him or make him afraid. No one
tweaks his pigtail, stones him, or knocks his hat
over his eyes, and he is altogether a respectable
member of society. I was invited to lunch with
Mr. and Mrs. F. W. Damon, both of whom have
been identified with the Chinese missionary work
here for many years. Mrs. Damon was a woman of
unusual loveliness of mind and character; she was
the daughter and granddaughter of a Chinese missionary, and was born in Canton, where she lived
until her removal to Honolulu fifteen years ago. She
spoke Chinese fluently, and this accomplishment
had given her great influence among the people to
whom both she and her husband had devoted their
lives. Their home was one of the most picturesque
in Honolulu —the old Damon homestead, which is
178




1893.3


CHINESE WORSHIPPERS.


179


situated in a narrow winding street, overhung with
palms and other tropical trees, the balconies on the
ground floor paved with huge unglazed tiles that
were brought from China years ago.
The tour with Mr. Damon through the Chinese
quarter was most interesting, and it was pleasing to
see with what affection and deference he was treated
wherever we went; every hand went up to the hatbrim and every countenance was lighted with a smile
of recognition as he passed. Even in the temple,
which we visited first, we were made welcome, and the
custodian showed us about while the worshippers were
crooning and mumbling-before the shrine of their hideous gods. As a structure the temple was not so imposing as a new joss-house which I had seen in San
Francisco. But I was much impressed by the entire
unanimity of the worshippers. A man was kneeling
before the altar, upon which frowned a grotesque
bewhiskered figure. He struck the floor with his
forehead in his genuflections, and tossed a vaseful of
sandal-wood sticks toward the idol. One dropped
on the floor, and was picked up and compared with
a scrap of red paper, one of many such suspended
along the wall, which bore a corresponding number
and an oracular inscription which decided his luck
for that day. There were sandal-wood tapers and
wax candles burning near at hand, and, in one
corner of the altar, votive offerings - small silken
banners, which were emblems of special gratitude




i80    THE CHINESE POPULATION. [Ch. XIV.


for divine favour. We walked all about the place,
watched the burning of the silver-paper propitiatory
offerings, and inspected the carving and tinsel with
the amiable acquiescence of the priest, who left the
worshippers to talk with Mr. Damon in Chinese,
and answer any question of an enlightening nature.
I was particularly attracted by the god of filial
piety, the rude wooden image of a boy, whose story
had come down through the ages as an example of
devotion to his mother. One tradition of this youth
was related to me; the mother had been exceedingly
afraid of thunderstorms throughout her life, and after
her death the son was accustomed to sit beside her
grave, during their prevalence, to calm and reassure
her spirit. As we strolled about, children came and
went at will, one girl of eleven carrying on her back
a big baby that cried astonishingly for a Chinese
child; but the little nurse herself, the worshippers,
and the priest all seemed entirely unconscious of
this. We had been joined by a young man who had
cut off his queue, having adopted Hawaii as his
permanent residence. He was beautifully dressed
in fine, dark-blue cloth, with a sort of womanly
daintiness of manner, and spoke wonderfully pure
English.
From the temple we went to the schools, which
were charming. There were in attendance about
one hundred and forty pupils-the largest Chinese
school outside the empire. The pupils were in



I893.]


A CHINESE SCHOOL.


structed in English and in their own language, it
having been found that they show a disposition to
forget Chinese when they once acquire English. I
found, to my great surprise, a perfectly appointed
kindergarten in charge of a trained and competent
teacher. The kindergarten was a most attractive
place -a big, airy apartment, with glimpses of tropical landscape from every window. The room was
supplied with all the usual appointments - charts,
pictures, blackboards, and tables. The little children were unique- Chinese, all of them, in their
native dress. One little girl wore a wonderful costume of cotton cloth, a pattern of polka dots on a
fawn-coloured ground. Their little queues had been
lengthened, as usual, by braiding into them strands
of pink cotton cord. The funny, black-eyed babies
stood in the circle singing, each with a coloured
worsted ball in its hand. The child in the centre
would make a gesture, selecting the one to take his
or her place- for the pupils in the primary schools
were of both sexes. The child in the circle advanced,
made a curtsey, and shook hands with the other, who
took its place, while the singing went on. The
curtsey was a little difficult, and Mr. Damon's
daughter, a beautiful little creature of seven, a perfect type of the fair-haired, blue-eyed Anglo-Saxon,
offered to show the Chinese how to do it correctly.
She stepped into the ring accordingly, and took the
little Oriental woman by the hand, made a deep




i82     THE CHINESE POPULATION. [Ch. XIV.


obeisance, like a grande dame in a minuet, and, still
clasping her hand, the Chinese child gracefully
repeated the curtsey. The American child, with
her fleece of golden hair, was a strange and striking
contrast to the other, almond-eyed, olive-skinned,
with a dangling queue, two bracelets on one slim
wrist, an anklet above the little unbound foot, made
still more picturesque by her pea-green drawers,
pink blouse, and the outer blouse of dark blue.
Another child was called up to receive the ball,
when all the others stopped and exclaimed, "Ah
Bow did not bow!" and every small, slim hand went
up to the mouth, and the class broke into a very
natural human laugh as they were struck by the odd
play upon words. I was much impressed by their
English, which was excellent, and by their sweet
voices, which, in speech and in singing, were clear
and tuneful, unlike the harsh cries that pass for
music among their elders.
In the next room were boys only - no girls. They
all rose as we entered and stood until we were seated.
Most of them were recently from China, and displayed an eagerness to learn in their rapt attention
and their patience in repeating a word over and over
again until the pronunciation was acquired. The
instruction was entirely by what is called "the natural method." On the second floor were the young
men, who constituted the boarding school over which
Mr. Damon presided. They were studying from




1893.

A CHINESE MATRON.


I83


Chinese textbooks, as one of the pupils told me,
"about the animals." They also rose and stood
respectfully while the schoolmaster cordially welcomed us.   He was an odd-looking man in his
native dress, to whom his big Chinese spectacles
imparted a scholarly air.  After he had shaken
hands with us his pupils reseated themselves, all
studying aloud, a sort of wild chant, in a dozen
different keys. Chinese words are susceptible of
many variations of meaning, which depend upon
pitch and inflection. A word in one key means an
entirely different thing from the same word pronounced in another. The master's quick ear caught
an incorrect tone now and then, which he instantly
noted - a miraculous keenness of hearing, it seemed
to me, in that babel. As the studying progressed,
pupils in turn came out from their desks, and stood
with their back to the master, repeating what they
had learned by rote. Much of their study is simply
the committing to memory words which are entirely
meaningless to them at the time, the definitions
being acquired subsequently.
There lived in the rear of the school a woman
whom we endeavoured to see, and whom Mr. Damon
told me was one of the finest examples of the Chinese
peasant woman he had ever known. She was uneducated, a widow, but possessed remarkable common
sense and excellent business qualifications.  She
had reared a family of four children, all of whom




184    THE CHINESE POPULATION. [Ch. XIV.


did her great credit. One daughter was happily
married, and the other was devoting her life to teaching among women of her own class. One of the
sons was the handsome young man whom we had
seen at the temple. Chinese women, when they
are mothers, in Hawaii as in China, are accorded
great respect and wield much influence in their
families.
From the schools I went with Mrs. Emory, a
friend of the Damons, to call upon the wife of one
of the leading Chinese merchants. I was received
with the utmost cordiality and courtesy by both the
husband and the wife. They had a suite of tiny
rooms in the rear of the second floor, above their
fine shop, one closet-like apartment being occupied
by two large white parrots.  In their own small
parlour there was an odd mingling of orientalism
and civilisation - Chinese mats, lacquer and embroidery, American lamps, a clock, and a rockingchair. The hostess wore wide, dark-blue trousers of
fine cloth, and over them a garment of bright-green
velvet. Her wrists were covered with jade bracelets,
and in her ears were rings set with large green
stones. She was a woman of the better class, and
her poor crippled feet were just four inches long.
They resembled wrists, from which the hands had
been amputated, thrust into shoes. She was making a new pair of shoes of fine silk, upon which she
had drawn a pattern which was to be embroidered.




I893-]


A CHINESE FIRE BRIGADE.


When we expressed our admiration, although she
could neither speak nor understand English, the
ruling passion was manifest, and she tottered into
an outer room and returned with two more pairs
which she had just finished, quite as an American
or English lady might show her best bonnet to her
dearest friend. One pair was scarlet, with birds
embroidered in gold thread. The others were yellow. She then pointed with great admiration to a
photograph of her mother, an elderly matron of much
dignity, who still lives in China. Her husband,
who was present throughout the call, also showed us
a photograph of himself, in which he wished us to
observe that he was arrayed in the attire of a mandarin, which he was entitled to wear. His wife,
posed beside him, was also resplendent in garments
befitting her rank. I asked the man his opinion of
annexation, upon which he talked very intelligently.
"I would rather the island belonged to the United
States than to Japan," he said, "if the authorities
would treat us fairly and protect us, as the Hawaiian
authorities always have done. We have nothing to
complain of now, and have prospered here under
Hawaiian rule."  His statement was true.
One merchant, Ah Fong, who married a woman
half American and half Hawaiian, has amassed a
large fortune, and both he and his family are people
of social distinction in Honolulu. He has a family
of thirteen daughters and four sons. Four of the




I86      THE CHINESE POPULATION. [Ch. XIV.
daughters are married to Americans, one of the
latter a naval officer, all being intelligent and welleducated girls of charming manners.
There is also in Honolulu a well-equipped and
well-disciplined Chinese fire brigade, which raised
the fund by subscriptions among their own countrymen exclusively to buy their engines and uniforms
and to build their own engine-house.  At the
funeral of a member of the Hawaiian Fire Brigade,
on the Sunday after my arrival, the Chinese firemen
marched in procession, and had evidently never been
taught that they were under a race ban in other parts
of the world.




CHAPTER XV.


THE QUEEN-DOWAGER.
SHORTLY after this visit to the Chinese school,
Mr. C. A. Brown called and informed me that
the Queen-Dowager, Kapiolani, would be pleased to
receive me at two o'clock that afternoon. The visit
had been arranged upon my arrival; but a number
of unforeseen circumstances caused its postponement
from week to week. Kapiolani still owned large
estates, and was a woman of great wealth. She
suffered from rheumatism, which the moist climate
seemed to aggravate, and as a consequence lived in
comparative retirement. She occupied a villa on
the Waikiki Road, between Honolulu and Diamond
Head. Opposite the entrance to the grounds was
the beach and the sea, with a perpetual dash of the
surf against the reef, which could be seen as well
as heard through the dense growth of date palms and
algaroba trees. The house was approached by a
circuitous drive. Over the entrance to the gate
was a board with a notice, "Kapu" (" Keep out ").
The grounds were planted with date palms, algaroba
187




I88


THE QUEEN-DOWAGER.


[Ch. XV.


and cocoanut trees; but there is a lack of that care
which most estates here receive. I was told that
this was in accordance with the old Queen's wish;
that she had the labour of a retinue of natives whenever she saw fit to command it, the people still paying their rents in this manner - a survival of the old
feudal system which prevailed under the Kamehamehas. In front of the house was a low edge of ti, the
tree whose leaves are used for wrapping up almost
every article bought in the market, and which is also
wrapped about fish and pork, which the natives roast
in the ground.
The villa was characteristic- a sort of bungalow,
the entire front covered with lattice-work, a door
leading to the lanai in the rear of the vestibule, over
which was a single window. The drawing-room in
front, which was lighted by windows in the rear of
the apartment only, was approached by a flight of
stairs on the outside. In the lower vestibule on
the ground floor were two large divans of wood, inlaid with mother-of-pearl - former possessions of
King Kalakaua, and evidently souvenirs of his travels
in India. As we approached, one of the Queen's
ladies came out of an inner apartment, and met us
upon the threshold.  She ushered us into the
drawing-room, and said she would inform the Queen
of our arrival. She was a Hawaiian, dressed in a
trained holoku of blue-and-white check silk. Before
the Queen appeared, I had an opportunity to look




1893.]  THE QUEEN'S APARTMENTS.


I89


about the drawing-room, which, like all Hawaiian
houses, was a combination of American and native
taste. There was a set of brown rep furniture, such
as was in fashion twenty years ago; over one large
armchair was thrown an ahula, made of the feathers
of some sort of sea-bird. Upon the floor was a
Brussels rug, with a pattern of mammoth red and
yellow roses; and upon this, in the very centre of
the room, stood a towering kahili, which almost
touched the ceiling. This had a wooden handle five
feet in length, from which was a spreading base of
soft scarlet and yellow feathers, surmounted by a
structure composed of the greyish black feathers
of a gull. Over the windows were lambrequins of
flowered chintz, ornamented with bows and loops of
scarlet ribbon; while the doorways were draped with
splendid Oriental brocade, scarlet interwoven with
gold. There were a great many portraits of King
Kalakaua — one in oil, another in crayon, and a fine
water-colour. These portraits represented a man of
a decided negro type rather than Hawaiian, with
thick lips, flat nose, hair less wavy than that of the
pure-blooded Hawaiians. A bust in clay stood on
an ebony pedestal.  There were many vases of
flowers standing about - not on tables, as we should
have arranged them, but upon the floor: one at the
foot of the pedestal which held the bust, one beside
the kahili, and another near the armchair. They
were oppressively fragrant, gardenia, stephanotis,




I90o


THE QUEEN-DOWAGER.


[Ch. XV.


and roses. Presently I saw, halting hesitatingly at
the doorway of an inner room, a tall and commanding figure clad in black. She approached, then apparently retreated, and then finally entered with two
Hawaiian ladies in attendance. It was Kapiolani.
Her manner was somewhat shy, but at the same
time extremely dignified. I was presented to her,
and she received me with unaffected cordiality and
great kindness. She must have been much past fifty
years of age - a perfect type of the Hawaiian woman,
very tall, with a massive frame, swarthy skin, and
rather irregular features. Her hair was intensely
black, long, wavy, and silken, and was arranged in
a lofty coil on top of her head, which added to her
stature. She wore a holoku of rich stiff black silk,
and around her neck a lei of the feathers of the oo,
the bird which furnished the plumage of the royal
mantles —a symbol of rank forbidden the common
people. She wore no jewels —not even a ring —
her only ornament being a brooch with a portrait of
King Kalakaua in mosaic with a heavy setting of
gold. It was a marked peculiarity of the Hawaiian
women of rank that they wore few jewels, preferring
wreaths of flowers instead. Queen Kapiolani shook
hands in the American fashion, and then seated herself in the red armchair.  While she understood
English, she did not speak it, and the conversation
had to be carried on through the medium of interpreters. Her manner was exceedingly pleasing, and




I893-]


MY INTERVIEW.


191


the Hawaiian - always a most liquid and musical
language - she spoke with peculiar sweetness of tone
and inflection.
The Queen-Dowager and the ex-Queen were not
on friendly terms; and I was told that the same
strained relations existed between Liliuokalani and
the Princess Kaiulani, the young heir-apparent, who
at the time of the Revolution was living in England.
The Queen-Dowager, however, was exceedingly popular among the people of all classes. I should infer
that she and the young Princess were friends, for I
saw upon the wall a pretty portrait of Kaiulani,
though none of Liliuokalani. After she had seated
herself the Queen-Dowager politely expressed her
regret at the many things which prevented her seeing me sooner, and wished to know if I were well
pleased with the Islands. There was but one answer
to this question, and I expressed my pleasure in the
beauty of the scenery, the wonderful flowers and
vegetation, and the enchanting climate. I told her
that I had left Chicago buried in snow and sleet,
that I had dreaded winter, and was glad to escape
from it. All this was rapidly interpreted to her,
and she replied through the same medium that she,
for her part, would be greatly pleased to see an
American winter, and that she thought snow "was
most interesting. "
She then made many inquiries concerning Admiral
Brown, and said that she would always remember




192


THE QUEEN-DOWAGER.


[Ch. XV.


with the greatest gratitude his kindness to the
King. Kalakaua had been deeply attached to him,
and he had a strong hold upon the affection of the
Hawaiian people.  While he was here she had
greatly enjoyed his visits, and he had come to see her
many times.
It was very warm, and at this interval in the conversation she asked one of the ladies to get me a fan.
She sat fanning herself with one of native manufacture woven from the ti leaf, which she used with
much grace. She then had the various portraits of
the King pointed out to me, and explained which she
liked best. The clay bust, she told me, was modelled from life. There was a cylinder of highly
polished koa, or some other native wood, in a curious
frame. It had a lid, and was encircled with two
narrow bands and one broad band of chased gold.
It resembled a small cannon with its muzzle turned
to the ceiling, and was furnished with a lid.
Through the interpreter she told me that it had been
found during the King's reign in a cave where the
ancient chiefs were buried. It was supposed to be
a repository of the winds. When the priests wished
to rouse a tempest, they did so by simply removing
the lid. King Kalakaua had had it mounted as a
memento. The World's Fair was to open the following month, and I asked her if she would visit it.
She smiled and said that she had not yet fully decided. She could not make up her mind whom to




I893.]


NATIVE DRESS.


I93


take, she said; then added with a laugh, "I should
have no women with husbands; the husbands are too
much trouble." All the ladies present, to whom she
pleasantly referred, laughed with the Queen at this
sally. I regretted that the Islands would have no
exhibit, and told her that I had not realised until I
came to Honolulu what an extensive and interesting
show they might have made. She fully agreed with
me, but said that the matter had been deferred until
it was too late.
Politics were not mentioned, nor even indirectly
alluded to. Being women, we also very naturally
talked of dress, and I could not refrain from saying that I thought the simple, graceful holoku much
more becoming to the Hawaiians than the modern
corsets and tight-waisted gowns which they were
adopting and which were painfully unsuited to them.
The Queen agreed with this thoroughly, and then
I told her that women in the United States were
endeavouring to simplify their mode of dressing, so
that they might achieve some such degree of comfort as the women in the Islands enjoyed. She was
very much interested, and asked many questions,
admitting frankly that she did not think one could
feel very comfortable in a fashionable Parisian costume. It will be remembered that when she made
her tour through the United States in 1874 the Queen
adhered rigorously to the holoku, which, as on the
occasion of my call, was always of very rich material.
I3




194        THE QUEEN-DOWAGER.         [Ch. XV.
When we finally rose to take our leave, my royal
hostess kindly asked me to visit her again before
my return to the United States. She then extended
her hand, with the national "Aloha, aloha," which is
alike greeting and farewell, and which means "My
love to you." She impressed me as a woman of
exceedingly liberal and generous mind, and I could
well believe, what I heard many times, that during
Kalakaua's reign at all the Palace functions she was
always a most impressive and queenly figure.




CHAPTER XVI.


THE LEPER SETTLEMENT.
W    HEN you arrive in Honolulu, you are warned
and with no apparent reason, that leprosy is
a word not to be mentioned in polite society. Leprosy
exists, as is well known, though almost exclusively
among the natives. The whites occasionally contract
it, it is supposed, by inoculation, where there is abrasion of the skin; but only those whose systems have
been vitiated by dissipation seem susceptible to the
taint, although there are again exceptions where the
apparently healthy are attacked.  The latter instances, I have been told, are exceedingly rare. Leprosy seems to defy all ordinary rules, both in the
manner of its appearance and development. Leprous
parents have children who are free from the disease
and in whom it never appears. A man on Molokai
married in succession two leprous women, both of
whom died and both of whom bore seemingly healthy
children. The husband did not himself contract the
disease. I had a conversation with an intelligent
young physician connected with the Hawaiian Board
I95




196     THE LEPER SETTLEMENT. [Ch. XVI.


of Health relative to the Receiving Station which is
located at Honolulu. It can always be visited by special permit from the Board of Health, which is not
difficult to obtain. There were eleven hundred cases
then on Molokai, and probably a few among the natives
on the other islands which had not been apprehended.
The most careful surveillance was exercised, and
every precaution was taken to isolate patients as
soon as the disease presented itself. This it had
been difficult to do. The Hawaiians are a peculiarly
affectionate race, and the removal of the sick to
Molokai is a parting which must be as final as the
death which it foreshadows.
It is one of the sheriff's official duties carefully
and regularly to inspect the natives and report to
the Board of Health those whom he believes to be
suffering from the disease. To facilitate this work
each island is divided into Sanitary Districts, which
are carefully patrolled.  When cases are apprehended, they are taken into custody and brought to
the station. They are then examined by the surgeons in charge. This is a delicate task, for occasionally the apparent symptoms are deceptive. If
the board of five examiners are all of the opinion that
the patient is a leper he is sent to Molokai. If there
is doubt he is examined at intervals until a decision
is reached.
"The natives are seemingly without the slightest
fear of the disease," said my informant. "I have




i893.]


FIRST SIGNS OF LEPROSY


I97


seen the sound eating out of the same bowl of poi
with a leper who had lost two or three fingers. The
evidence of leprosy did not excite their fear any
more than it affected their appetite. They will hide
the sick in their huts, or take them up into the mountains, where they can be kept out of the way and
more securely concealed for many months. When
they are taken into custody and sent away, their
friends gather at the dock to bid them farewell, and
it is a heart-rending scene.  They express their
sorrow in poignant lamentation- a national wail
which is so harrowing that I avoid hearing it whenever it is possible. No matter how far the disease
may have advanced, though it may have attacked the
nose and lips, it sometimes requires official interference to prevent the friends and relatives kissing and
embracing the lepers who are to be sent into banishment, and whom they know they will never see
again."
"How does the disease first show itself?"
" By discoloration - white spots on the lower limbs
usually. Then there is a depression of the muscles
between the thumb and index finger — a wasting
that continues until all the fingers bend backward,
shrivel, and drop off.  The face also takes on a
bluish pallor. Blotches appear upon the forehead
above the eyes, which assume an abnormal appearance. The lobes of the ear are frequently much
elongated until amputations are necessary, the dis



198


THE LEPER SETTLEMENT. [Ch. XVI.


eased portion being sometimes four or five inches in
length. Eruptions that do not heal are another form,
and the lips become drawn and pitted, with hard
swellings over the brows, and the nose is reduced to
a shapeless mass; it is often eaten entirely away.
This also happens to other portions of the face.
Strangely enough the patient does not always suffer,
and there are many instances where the terrible
disease is said to be entirely painless. The lepers
are maintained on Molokai at the expense of the
Government. Comfortable houses have been furnished them and unlimited poi, and apart from the
separation from their friends and families, to which
in time they become reconciled, their lot is not considered one of unmixed misery."
The Hawaiians are a light-hearted people, and find
amusement in every diversion that offers. Their
songs and their love of flowers are a natural instinct,
and they are like children in the simple joyousness
which evinces itself in their manner and in their
smiling countenances. Grief does not rest heavily
upon them, and the bereavement which follows everlasting separation from home and friends finds speedy
consolation in the formation of new ties. Their
friends, in turn, similarly console themselves when
they are bereft. Upon arriving at Molokai the lepers
are permitted to found new families - dreadful as it
seems.   Leprosy is a statute ground of divorce.
And in this land of death there are speedy betroth



I893.] CHEERFULNESS OF THE LEPERS.


199


als, marrying and giving in marriage, and some
births, although not many, as leprous women seldom
have children. The children remain in Molokai
unless there is reason for the authorities to believe
they are free from the taint, when they are permitted
to go to any one of the other islands or are cared for
at government expense at the "Kapiolani Home" in
Honolulu, until they become of age. I have characterised these leprous marriages as dreadful, but
in reality they are little worse than the perpetuation of vice and hereditary degeneracy and physical
disability which is permitted without restriction in
all civilised countries. Dr. R. Oliver is now the
resident physician -a terrible existence, one may
well believe, in this literal Valley of the Shadow of
Death. The presence of disease, however, does not
affect the inhabitants, who are well fed and well
clothed, and who here, as elsewhere, crown their
disfigured and ghastly heads with flowers. Dogs
and horses are allowed them, apparently, without
limitation. They take no thought for the morrow,
and they have no cause to feel anxiety as to wherewithal they shall be fed and clothed.  Food in
abundance and clothing and shelter are theirs as
long as they live; and, although doomed, they probably reason logically enough that, even in this event,
their lives may be extended beyond that of the apparently sound and able-bodied whom they have left behind them.




200


THE LEPER SETTLEMENT. [Ch. XVI.


Some years ago an Englishwoman, professedly a
trained nurse, went out to Molokai with much theatrical demonstration, ostensibly to emulate the selfsacrifice of Father Damien, who lived for years
amongst the lepers and died there. She reached
Honolulu, but soon afterward married and went to
the United States. In any event it would have
been a work of supererogation, since there is a little
band of Catholic nuns who remain with the lepers
constantly, quietly performing their duty, ministering to their comfort, nursing them in their last illness, sitting beside their beds at death, in the quiet
obedience and the devoted courage of their order.
They went to their terrible post of duty unheralded,
and remain there, shut away from the world, without
considering that they have done more than that
which their religion and humanity require of them.
They have a convent which receives the few strangers
who are permitted to set foot upon the shores of the
settlement.
The plan of isolating the infected was first discussed in the Hawaiian Legislature in I865; but, as
might be imagined, it was violently opposed by the
natives, who resisted the enactment of the law, and
it was not carried into effect until I873. At this
time it was estimated that there were some four hundred leprous persons living with their families upon
the various islands. The first attempts to apprehend
and remove these unfortunates were savagely re



i893-]


MOLOKAI.


201


sisted. No discrimination was shown, and among
the first exiles was William Ragsdale, a cousin of
Queen Emma, an able lawyer, a man of wealth and
influence, who afterwards devoted himself to the
comfort and well-being of his fellow-sufferers. The
whole of Molokai is not, as is erroneously supposed,
given over to the habitation of the lepers. The
name, in Hawaiian "Molokai Aina Palli," means
"The land of precipices." This describes the formation of the island, which rises almost perpendicularly from the sea. The lepers occupy a plain of
twenty thousand acres, which faces the roaring surf,
and which is cut off from the remainder of the
land in the rear by a precipice two thousand feet in
height. Up this cliff there is a steep zigzag bridlepath which it is difficult and dangerous to traverse,
even upon the back of the most sure-footed horse.
Between the sea and this dizzy precipice the settlement is virtually a prison from which there is no
escape. Mrs. Bishop has been charged with greatly
exaggerating the misery of life in the settlement,
but it is just to explain that great improvements
have been made within the past twelve years, houses
having been built for the reception of the lepers, and
many accommodations provided them which were
lacking at the time of her visit while the colony was
in the experimental stage. On the contrary, apart
from the hideousness of the disease, the loathsome
spectacle of decaying flesh animated by the breath




202       THE LEPER SETTLEMENT. [Ch. XVI.
of life, the ever-present odour of decay, Robert
Louis Stevenson has pronounced the provision made
for the lepers by the Hawaiian Government both
comfortable and humane. He was impressed with
the contentment and cheerfulness of the people, who
did not seem to dread in the least the death ordained
them. He said that, had he been set apart from
humanity by any ban that made him unsightly to his
kind, he would have sought refuge in Molokai,
where, in the common lot of affliction, he would find
security and peace, and so pass out of life unmarked,
and spared the suffering that aversion and loathing
add to the pangs of dissolution.
I did not visit Molokai, although permission would
have been given me. I had been warned by Mrs.
Black, of San Francisco, then on the staff of the San
Francisco Examiner, not to do so. She had gone
to the island a few years previous, and she said, "I
shall never be able to banish the recollection of that
terrible experience from memory. Do not fill your
mind with images that will make you shudder when
you think of them, as long as you live, and that you
will inevitably carry with you to the grave."




KX-QUEEN LII.IUOKALANI.








CHAPTER XVII.


AN AUDIENCE WITH QUEEN LILIUOKALANI.
AN audience with the ex-Queen at eleven o'clock,
a reception on board the Mohican at 3 p. M., a
call upon the Minister-Resident, Mr. Stevens, and
a most delightful dinner with the President and
Mrs. Dole at seven o'clock, completed the programme of my last day's memorable sojourn in
Honolulu, on the occasion of my first visit. The
hour fixed for my call upon the Queen was eleven
o'clock, and at the appointed time I was received
upon the piazza by Colonel Robertson, who was
then still acting as her secretary.  Washington
Place, as the Queen's town house was called, was a
delightful villa, with wide verandahs above and
below on all sides. It was painted white, contrasting pleasingly with the heavy foliage which overshadowed it. The doors and windows were standing
open, and there was a suggestion of patriarchal
custom in the retainers about the grounds and upon
the verandahs. Men arrayed in cool suits of white
duck came and went, and a group of women sat
together in the shade, wearing the native dress,
203




204 AN AUDIENCE WITH THE QUEEN. [Ch. XVII.


loaded with the usual garlands of tuberoses, waiting
until they could be admitted to the ex-Queen's presence. When I arrived, Liliuokalani was conferring
with Mr. Paul Neumann, her attorney, and Mr.
Harold Sewell, recently arrived from Samoa, the
present Minister to the Hawaiian Republic. I was
therefore shown into the reception-room to wait
until the ex-Queen was at leisure.   A  young
Hawaiian, with a bright, intelligent face, sat at a
desk writing. At his elbow was a photograph of a
member of one of the royal family, over one corner
of which was lightly thrown a lei of tuberoses.
Near this was a larger photograph of Commissioner
Blount, Mrs. Blount, and the Commissioner's private
secretary, Mr. Mills, There was a polished calabash and a towering kahili in the hall just outside
the door. With the books upon the table were
heaped other leis of tuberoses, which filled the air
with their heavy odour.
Mr. Neumann withdrew, and I was then informed
that the Queen would see me. She was sitting upon
a sofa, but rose when I entered the apartment and
extended her hand, greeting me with the utmost
informality. There was an undefinable unlikeness
in the portraits that had appeared in the public
press, and I do not think that I should have recognised her. She requested me to be seated, and as
the conversation progressed I had an opportunity of
studying her face. It was strong and resolute. The




I893.]


QUEEN LILUOKALANI.


205


features were irregular, the complexion quite dark;
the hair was streaked with grey, and she had the
large, dark eyes of her race. Her voice was musical
and well modulated, as is the case with all Hawaiians; and she spoke remarkably pure and graceful
English. Her manner was dignified, and she had
the ease and the authoritative air of one accustomed
to rule. A strikingly handsome young Hawaiian sat
near by, listening with interest and attention to all
that was said. She told me that she had learned of
my visit shortly after I arrived in the Islands, but
was at the time in the midst of political trouble
which forced her to deny herself to visitors. She
then kindly inquired as to the cause of the accident
which necessitated the use of crutches, and expressed
her regret that my recovery had not been more rapid.
She also inquired after Admiral Brown, and talked
of an accident which had befallen him during his
stay in Honolulu the previous summer. She wished
to know if I had been pleased with my visit, what I
thought of Honolulu and of the Islands, and she
seemed sincerely gratified when I told her that it
was one experience of my life when the highest anticipations had fallen far below the reality. I spoke
of the beauty of the country, the charm of the
climate, and the cordial hospitality which I had received from all classes of people.
"Yes," she said, "we love our beautiful country,
and we love to hear it praised."




206 AN AUDIENCE WITH THE QUEEN. [Ch. XVII.


Like all other people of all other countries, she
wished to know what impression the Hawaiians and
their institutions had made upon me, and I told her
of a visit I had recently paid the Royal School for
Hawaiian Boys and the Kawaiahao School for Girls.
She asked if the girls had sung for me, and I replied
that they had, and that it was a great pleasure to
hear them.
"People from the United States are surprised at
the excellence of your schools," I added.
She replied, " And it is very gratifying to me when
foreigners are able to see our schools for themselves.
The Hawaiians are a well-educated people; there
are few, if any, who cannot read or write."
I spoke with especial praise of a recitation that I
had heard in the Royal School, the pupils giving
evidence of excellent training and of natural intelligence. She then reverted to Admiral Brown and the
affection that was felt for him by the Hawaiian people.
"He was very kind to our King," she said. " He
was with him during his last illness, and brought the
body back to Honolulu for burial. The Hawaiians
have never forgotten this; they were deeply disappointed that he did not come at the time they
expected him. We have great aloha for him - that
is our national term for affection."
It was quite true that Admiral Brown had been a
warm friend of the ex-Queen and of her people, but
I had reason to know that he sternly disapproved of




1893.]


ADMIRAL BROWN.


207


the unlawful course she had pursued in the abrogation of the Constitution which she had sworn to
support at the time of her accession. I could not
refrain from giving her an intimation of his real
opinion. I therefore said that, personally, I was
greatly relieved that he had not come; that his
relations with the people, and his official responsibility as a Commissioner, had he been chosen, would
have made the situation most embarrassing; that it
was better that the kindly feeling which had so long
existed should be spared so great a strain, and remain undisturbed.
"That is true," she admitted after a moment's
hesitation, "but we should have been most happy to
welcome him back, for whatever he might have said
or done we should still have believed him to be our
friend."
Neither the name of Commissioner Blount nor his
errand to the Islands was mentioned. When I rose
to go, both the Queen and the young attendant also
rose, and she again extended her hand, holding mine
in a strong, warm clasp while she bade me good-bye.
"Give Admiral Brown my aloha," she said again;
"and I hope you will return when you are recovered
and able to visit the other islands; they are all well
worth seeing, and all as dear to us as this."  She
bowed gracefully, and with an added good-bye I left
the royal presence.
As I stepped out upon the piazza the company of




208 AN AUDIENCE WITH THE QUEEN. [Ch. XVII.


native women who had been awaiting my departure
rose and passed into the house toward the drawingroom with their wreaths, which I learned were daily
offerings, and which left a waft of overpowering fragrance as they passed. There had been the utmost
informality in the reception and in the conversation
which followed, and the deposed Queen, in her
severely plain gown of black and grey serge without
a single ornament, still evinced in her speech and
bearing much of her former state and dignity. She
was an accomplished musician, fairly well read, and
was at that time devoting a good many hours a day
to the study of German. She lived in extreme simplicity, with the smallest practicable staff of servants, driving out regularly, going backwards and
forwards from her town house to her villa on the
seashore.  She was apparently peaceable, and resigned to her fate; no one, except the closest of her
confidants and advisers, knew that she was simply
biding her time.
The interview occasioned a good deal of comment
and some amusement among the Americans and
Europeans in Honolulu. I had certainly no wish to
be impertinent or disrespectful, but I felt that the
ex-Queen should be undeceived as to the position of
the Rear-Admiral, whom she really respected and
trusted, and I took it upon myself to tell her the
truth. But my Hawaiian friends assured me that I
should never make a courtier.




CHAPTER XVIII.


THE CLOSE OF THE BLOUNT ADMINISTRATION.
URING the remainder of the time which Mr.
Blount devoted to his official inquiry he saw
very little of the people, except the natives, who
had access to him at all times to the last. Those
who were qualified to speak on behalf of the Provisional Government were still given the briefest
and most reluctant hearing; there was no change
in his partial and unfriendly attitude. His witnesses, as the Congressional investigation subsequently showed, were many of them disreputable
fellows, entirely untrustworthy - one especial source
of his information having been arrested and imprisoned in China for forging passports for coolie emigrants. An attempt had been made to prove that
the Revolution was a conspiracy of the annexationists, who had perfected their plans in a series of
meetings held secretly at the residence of the American Minister. When Congress finally succeeded in
forcing Mr. Cleveland to submit Mr. Blount's report,
which he refused to do as long as possible, and it


I4


209




0io THE BLOUNT ADMINISTRATION. [Ch. XVIII.


was published and sent back to Honolulu, one witness was made to retract this statement. He did so
in one of the daily newspapers over his signature,
saying that "he did not personally know that the
charge was true, but he had been informed that it
was by some one else" - rather shadowy evidence,
one would conclude, to be incorporated into an
official report of the gravest importance, not only to
the Provisional Government of Hawaii, but to the
Government of the United States. Having finished
my work, and there being no indication that the
Provisional Government was not perfectly stable and
secure, I returned to Chicago to be present at the
World's Fair, and to preside over the Women's
Branch of the Press Congress, the first of a series
of Congresses held in connection with the Exhibition. There was no news of any consequence from
the Islands throughout the summer, and I was occupied with my professional and official duties.
Mr. Blount had succeeded Mr. Stevens as American Minister, but by this time, having become
emphatically persona non grata to the entire Hawaiian
Government, he felt his position not only embarrassing but difficult, and asked to be relieved. He was
succeeded by Mr. Albert S. Willis, of Louisville, a
man of very different calibre. Mr. Willis was sent
by the President with all professions of good-will to
President Dole, who had no suspicion of his mission.
When it was learned, steps were immediately taken




1894.]


MR. ALBERT S. WILLIS.


211


to resist the restoration of the Queen by force of
arms, if necessary. Mr. Willis, being a man of far
greater intelligence and prudence than Mr. Blount,
saw that his instructions could not be carried out
without bloodshed, and waited for further advice
from the State Department in Washington before
resorting to extremes. The plan of restoration was
furiously opposed by the people of the United States,
irrespective of politics, as un-American and undemocratic, and Mr. Cleveland, dogged and stubborn
though he was, was forced to yield to public opinion.
It is doubtful if there was ever a more ridiculous
fiasco. The President of the United States was so
absolutely certain that he would carry out what he
had undertaken that he evidently notified France
that it had been actually accomplished, and that government sent out a successor to its consul, who had
asked permission to resign his office. When the
successor arrived, he found himself accredited to a
non-existent monarch, and his rage knew no bounds.
When the news of the Willis episode was received,
I was ordered to return to Hawaii at once, and left
Chicago January 2nd, arriving in Honolulu within a
fortnight.  We were detained in San Francisco
several days waiting for the European mails, that
had been belated by storms in the Atlantic. The
Mid-Winter Fair, an after-thought of the Chicago
Exposition, was in progress. Among the exhibitors
was Harriet Hosmer, the sculptor, who contributed




2r2 THE BLOUNT ADMINISTRATION. [Ch. XVIII.


the fine model of her "Isabella" - a heroic figure
intended for the World's Fair. She was occupied
with putting the model in place; but we managed
between times to have several outings and visits together. One incident of the week was a Spanish
dinner, which was given in her honour at a Mexican
restaurant, and which induced the first attack of seasickness I had ever had - for I sailed the next day.
The dinner consisted of red pepper au naturel and
in various disguises - chicken tomates, frijoles, and
other unnameable things, with a variety of fiery
wines. We felt in duty bound to taste a little of
everything, and we repented at leisure  a leisure in
my case necessarily and unduly extended.
We landed in Honolulu under very different conditions from the year before. It was pouring down
as if the fountains of the great deep were broken up.
The first pilot who came out to meet us searched for
hours without finding us, and we were forced to wait
until it cleared somewhat before we could enter
the harbour. At the quarantine we learned that the
town had quieted down, and it was thought that the
worst was over. My friends had not been notified
of my return; so I drove to the hotel, which was
crowded with naval officers and their wives, and I
had assigned to me a very damp, earthy, cave-like
room in the basement. The next day I was given
an apartment on the second floor adjoining the
kitchen, where I was wakened at four o'clock by a




I894.]  MY RETURN TO HONOLULU.


213


protracted and violent grinding of coffee and beating
of eggs - cheerful reassurance as to breakfast, but a
dreadful interruption to one's slumbers.
On Monday a piece of great good fortune befell
me. My friend Mrs. W —    came in her carriage
and carried me off, and I quitted with joyful alacrity
the cave-like room in the basement and the chamber
over the kitchen. It seemed blissful to be removed
from the noise and smells and bustle of the hotel to
the great, airy, peaceful chamber which was given
me in my friend's beautiful house, with the mountains and valleys on one hand, and the sweep of the
sea stretching away for leagues beyond my windows
on the other.
I could now walk short distances with comparative
ease, and this greatly simplified my work, and, in
spite of everything, added greatly to my renewed
pleasure. My special mission was to investigate the
sources of information from which Mr. Blount had
made up his report to President Cleveland, which
was soon accomplished. Much of my writing was
done in the throne-room of the Palace, where I had
been given a desk by the Vice-President, and which
was used as a Council Chamber by the Advisory
Council. It was an instance of the meeting of extremes to sit writing reports for a Chicago daily
newspaper confronting the empty throne of the deposed Queen.
The weeks slipped away pleasantly, the President




214 THE BLOUNT ADMINISTRATION. [Ch. XVIII.
and Council drafting the new Constitution and deliberating over it, which was to be submitted to the
Convention that was to assemble the last day of
May. There were the customary entertainmentsdinners and "at homes," and receptions on board
the U. S. S. Adams, which had been sent out when
the Mohican, Alliance, and the Boston were ordered
to other stations.




CHAPTER XIX.


IN HILO.
HAWAII, from which the entire group derive
their name, is the largest and southernmost
of the Hawaiian Islands. Like the others, it is a
barren lava plain on the leeward side, while to the
windward there are vast plantations of sugar-cane
covered by myriads of unfailing streams.  These
not only furnish power for electric motors, but supply
the mills which, though driven by steam, require a
great water supply, and also feed the conduits which
cross the fields, sometimes for miles, in which the
cane, after it is cut and stripped, is sent down to the
mills.
The approach to Hawaii on the windward side is
of unsurpassed loveliness. The shores are a mass of
verdure, with the still greener plantations in the
distance; and down the lava crags of the coast,
through clefts and over precipices, pour a thousand
leaping watercourses - sometimes a tiny rivulet that
scarcely stirs the ferns that overshadow it, sometimes a rippling and dancing brook, and again a
rushing torrent churned into foam white as the surf
into which it falls and melts. Far away, if the sky is
215




216


IN HILO.


[Ch. XIX.


clear, may be seen the peaks of Mauna Kea and
Mauna Loa, rising out of the dark forests interspersed with patches of the grey-green kukui which
girdle their lower slopes-cones of purest crystal,
covered with unmelting snow.
On my first visit I had been unable to accept kind
invitations that were sent me to visit Hawaii from
friends living in Hilo; but having now partially
recovered, I considered myself extremely fortunate
that the opportunity - a most unlikely thing to have
happened —should have been thrown in my way a
second time. There had come a lull in affairs in
Honolulu, and I was assured that there would be no
new revolution, no attempt to restore the Queen, and
no invasion by the Japanese during my absence; so
that I felt I might venture to go away for a fortnight's holiday. I left Honolulu the first week in
February on the Kinau. She was a tiny craft to
brave the rough seas.
It is two hundred and seventy-five miles from
Honolulu to Hilo, and it is here that the tourist
takes the stage for the Volcano of Kileauea, which is
still thirty miles distant. The channels between
the islands of Oahu, Maui, Molokai, and Hawaii are
said to be the roughest waters on the globe; and
whether his experience be limited or extensive, the
tourist will at once admit that it is true. If he has
travelled much, his experience will bear out the truth
of the assertion; and if he has not, his natural intel



i894-]


MAHUKONA.


217


ligence will still lead him to the same conclusion.
To me the voyage is a blurred memory of remaining
on deck, the solitary watcher there, until the stars
came out, of retiring to my cabin, and emerging
no more until the afternoon of Wednesday —one
day of dreadful qualms and two nights of spasmodic
clutching at any support that presented itself to keep
me from being tossed from the berth. Among the
passengers who had come on board at Honolulu was
an American physician and his ward, who had taken
cabins on the upper deck. It was found, upon inspection, that they were separated only by a curtain
over the connecting doorway. When this was discovered, the physician asked me to exchange cabins
with him, which I willingly did. After this was
agreed upon, the steward came into my room to make
up the berth, and placed in it a wide mattress, which
he squeezed down until it formed the half of a
cylinder. I looked at this arrangement with great
disfavour, but had reason afterwards to thank myself
that such support had been supplied me.
We stopped the next morning to take on board a
load of sugar at Mahukona, which was brought out to
the steamer in flat boats attached to a cable connecting the vessel and the shore. This place is the
terminus of the railroad which runs up to the plantations beyond the arid ridge facing the sea. Near
the beach was a cluster of bungalows embowered in
algaroba trees-that blessing which brightens the




2I8


IN HILO.


[Ch. XIX.


desert wastes throughout the Islands. Beyond this
bit of greenery there was not a trace of vegetation
upon the lava-strewn hillside, which, however, was
crossed by that evidence of civilisation here omnipresent and indispensable -the telephone. There
was a broad road winding up the steep ascent along
the ridge, leading down to the hidden plantations
beyond. Over this highway we could see the natives
riding on horseback, four abreast, the women in
holokus and flower-wreathed straw hats. Far away
rose the snowy peak of Mauna Kea, the highest
peak on the island, volcanic, like all the mountains
throughout Hawaii; and in every direction stretched
the sea, blue as sapphire, and flecked with white caps.
When we reached Hilo, we crawled out, limp and
disconsolate, made an impressionist sort of toilette,
and buttoned two buttons on each boot. Then we
huddled together on the deck, surveying the shore
through the fast-descending rain, which came down,
not like ordinary rain, but after its manner in Hilo,
a solid deluge.  There were great stretches of
yellow-green cane-fields, the graceful cocoa-palms
lifting their plumy branches along the edge of encircling forests. But to see the shore and to reach it
were two widely different matters.   We were
anchored in the harbour, and went over the ship's
side to drop into the tossing boat below at the word
of command. This required steadiness of nerve and
extreme carefulness and calculation, but it was




I894.]


A ROUGH VOYAGE.


219


accomplished. The boat was wet, not only with the
rain, which continued to pour, but with occasional
waves that broke over it. We were rowed across the
bay, then up a wide inlet to a pier, up which we
were pulled by main force. The twenty unfortunates
who were to go on to the volcano that morning,
exhausted as they were by the rough voyage, were
loaded into stages waiting for them and driven away.
My host, who was awaiting me, took me at once to
his house, and I spent the remainder of the day in
resting and convalescing. One meets here people
from every quarter of the globe. In our little passenger list there were two young girls from New
Zealand, the physician and his ward from New York,
and a fat priest from Lisbon, who had come out to do
missionary work among the Portuguese. The father
of my host had been a political exile from Germany.
At the house, after my wet clothing had been
removed, an appetising luncheon was brought to my
room by Mademoiselle, the governess, a charming
young Swiss girl, who had left Lucerne only the
year before.  The next morning overshoes and
mackintoshes were donned, and we made an expedition to see a rushing river, which had been greatly
swollen by the rain, dashing over the black volcanic
rocks in its bed with tremendous noise and velocity.
Its steep banks were matted with ferns and ginger,
and here and there cascades leaped through the
greenery, to fall into the larger torrent below. In




220


IN HILO.


[Ch. XIX.


the afternoon the sun came out for a little while,
and an expedition was planned to Rainbow Falls.
There are very few good roads in Hilo, so that
exploring must be done either on foot or on horseback; consequently we arranged a riding-party,
with rather lamentable results. There was my host
on a clay-coloured mule, named Bella; his son, Bert,
upon another; I upon a tame old horse; while Mademoiselle had borrowed Billy, the family horse belonging to Mr. Severance, the postmaster. I knew
nothing whatever of horsemanship, but once mounted
soon became accustomed to the snail pace of my
steed. The road was something indescribable. We
climbed what was apparently an endless causeway,
layers of volcanic rock like paving-stones - proceeded over stones and boulders, through sloughs
and boiling streams, swollen by the rain to unimaginable depths. We rode single file, following the
narrow trail, and then dismounted to walk the last
half-mile through a jungle of matted grass, waistdeep and dripping. But the falls repaid us - a great
stream foaming and roaring and dropping one hundred feet in a sheer descent into a frothy pool,
and rushing down to the sea in a succession of
cascades.
When we reached the uplands, we found the grassy
plain intersected by many small streams.  These
wound through their narrow channels some thirty or
forty yards and disappeared, to reappear twenty




i894.]


A TITANIC HIGHWAY.


22I


yards or more away in a direction that could hardly
have been guessed. The subterranean channels had
been hollowed out in the buried lava which underlay
the entire region. In other places there were deep,
clear pools, ice-cold, but bubbling up like cauldrons.
We walked back to our tethered animals and remounted. Mr. L, on Bella, the yellow mule,
led the cavalcade. The lava above Hilo is the survival of the great flow of I88I, which poured down a
molten river from the summit crater of Mauna Loa,
burning all vegetation in its path, and threatening
to destroy the town.   Fortunately, however, it
stopped within a mile of it, and the black and congealing mass, which still has a perceptibly sulphurous odour, was one year in cooling. Disintegration
has already begun-ferns taking root and lifting
their delicate fronds in the crevices, and insidious
lichens aiding the work of decomposition.  There
were acres of this lava - black and shapeless masses,
poured down in a thickening liquid that had hardened, coil upon coil. In other places there were
solid blocks, and again little jutting crags and
smooth slabs fitted together like paving-stones.
As a horsewoman I am entirely unskilled, and
when Mr. L-    proposed to ride across this Titanic
highway I looked at it a little dubiously. But as
Sam Patch remarked, "Some things may be done as
well as others;" and as I had successfully climbed
the causeway, scaled the stone-heaps, forded the




222


IN HILO.


[Ch. XIX.


river, and traversed the sloughs, it seemed inconsistent to refuse the lava-bed. I said I could manage
it, and up we went, Bella again leading; Bert on
Dandy; then myself, and Mademoiselle bringing up
the rear on Billy.
There is said to be an amiable cherub who sits up
aloft looking out for the welfare of poor Jack. I
think the same protecting genius must have an eye
also to the preservation of foolhardy women, and confidently believe that I have had my own share of his
good offices. We really got along admirably - for a
time. My horse dexterously picked his way along
narrow ridges a fopt wide, and slid down the inclines
in a way that might have excited the envy of a coasting schoolboy. With equal skill he climbed the
slippery slopes, winding in and out like a cat. I
knew but one rule, so far as riding was concerned;
this was, "Hold a tight rein," and I observed it
punctiliously. Mademoiselle, much more experienced, followed me. We had nearly crossed the
dangerous stretch in safety when I heard a crash and
a shriek behind me. Billy was down, and Mademoiselle was trying to get her foot out of the
stirrup; she finally succeeded; but alas for poor
Billy! he floundered a moment, and then lay helpless, his leg broken below the knee. I rode off the
lava down to the grass, Mademoiselle following on
foot, crying and wringing her hands. But nothing
could be done until help could be had. Mr. L



894.]1


A CATASTROPHE.


223


dismounted, climbed the lava, put his hands over his
mouth, and gave a loud halloo. Then a party of
Japanese came to the rescue. There were eight of
them, carrying pieces of timber, out of which they
improvised a litter, and poor old Billy was lifted
down to the grass, laid on a heap of fern, and covered
with a blanket. The broken leg was put in splints,
and it was hoped that he might be saved; but he
was too old, and the next day it was agreed that he
must be shot to put him out of his pain. Mademoiselle and I left Mr. L — and the Japanese at
work, and started home alone- two decidedly dejected-looking women. My costume was a darkblue divided skirt, a peacock blue blouse, a cap that
shed the water from its peak in streams down my
nose and cheeks (for it was raining again), a pair of
wet, bulging gloves, wet, muddy gown, wet boots,
and over this array the wet and mud-stained mackintosh. Mademoiselle's habit was less composite,
consisting of a broad-brimmed straw hat, that
flopped down over her eyes, a dark-blue serge ridinghabit, covered completely by a big, yellow, muddy
oilskin coat. After we had proceeded some distance
we heard Mr. L — shouting to us. We thought
it was hope for poor Billy, and Mademoiselle exclaimed with fervent piety, "Oh, t'ank God!" But
we were mistaken; it was only a signal of distress
and a call for additional help. We did not return
as we came, but went round three craters beyond the




224


IN HILO.


[Ch. XIX.


lava flow by a bridle-path.  It was called a path;
but it was a sluggish, moving stream of mud and
water, into which the horses sank to their haunches.
They would plunge in and withdraw their hoofs with
an explosion that was like the crack of a whip-lash.
As we started Mr. L-    had said of my mount,
" That 's a splendid little mud horse." And I found,
before the ride was finished, that his virtues in this
direction had not been exaggerated.
We passed numbers of interesting Japanese houses,
neat as the houses of a toy village, each with its bit
of garden in which tapioca and ginger were growing
and thriving. Portuguese, who are even more successful farmers than the Chinese, were standing in
the verandahs of their small houses, and smiled
affably at us, surrounded by swarms of young children. If they had been encouraged and could have
obtained land, the Portuguese would long ago have
redeemed the waste places of Hawaii, and made the
desert place blossom as the rose. Removed from
the tyranny of a State religion, they become liberal
and progressive, no longer the servile tools of the
priests. They are a most temperate, industrious,
and peaceable people, prizing above all things the
little home which each aspires to acquire and hold;
and they are in every way most desirable as colonists.
At the end of one long and unutterably boggy lane
we met a handsome Hawaiian boy carrying home a
sackful of grass. He wore the usual white cotton




1894.]   MRS. BISHOP'S NARRATIVE.


225


shirt and blue cotton trousers, both soaked with
rain. He was barefooted, and round the crown of
his hat was wound a small American flag, the blue
of the ground faded into the white stars which the
running dye had completely blurred.  Portuguese,
Japanese, and Chinese we had passed in that melancholy ride; and here, at the parting of the ways,
stood youthful Hawaii pensively surveying us, his
black eyes looking out from under that little wet flag
above his hat-brim. Somewhat later I crawled off
my saddle at the verandah steps of Mr. L — 's
house, muddy, drenched, and stiff, grateful for a
hot bath and a dry gown, but with no appetite for
dinner. During the night I could hear the rain
falling in sheets. I thought of poor Billy lying out
on the hill-top on his bed of fern with his broken
leg, and it troubled my repose. And this is a true
chronicle of my first ride in Hawaii.
Mrs. Bird Bishop has written with pardonable
enthusiasm of Hilo and Hawaii. I have heard her
charged with exaggeration; so it is pleasant to state
that the account of her perilous adventures, fording
torrents, scaling precipices, and making her way
through pathless forests, is fully corroborated by the
people of Hilo among whom she lived, and who still
hold her in affectionate remembrance. During the
latter half of my visit it was my good fortune to be
entertained in the same delightful home, that of Mr.
and Mrs. Severance, where Mrs. Bishop and Miss
15




226


IN HILO.


[Ch. XIX.


Gordon Cumming had been received. They spoke
of Mrs. Bishop with the greatest admiration and
affection. She had been an ideal guest, readily
adapting herself to the ways of their household,
anxious to avoid giving trouble, waiting upon herself, and lending her assistance in household matters
whenever she could. She would sit and write in
the drawing-room with the family and the guests
seated about her talking, not in the least disturbed
by their conversation. It was in this hospitable
home the interesting reception was given King
Lunalilo in 1875, which Mrs. Bishop has described
with the amusing difficulty of procuring materials
for a feast of sufficient magnitude for his entertainment. Such a drawback would not be encountered today, as Hawaii is now in comparatively close touch
with the world, which brings all its luxuries, and
fortunately but few of its discomforts, to her door.
It is difficult to make the people of the United
States or England realise the refinement and culture
of the people of these remote Islands. Even at the
risk of violating the sacredness of hospitality, I feel
that I must describe this beautiful house and its
surroundings, that unenlightened Americans and
English may comprehend what the life is like. It
was a bungalow, with sloping, picturesque roof and
verandahs on every side. The rooms opened upon
the verandah with glass doors, which were seldom
closed. They were connected and separated only




1894.]


LIFE IN HILO.


227


by portieres, ceiled with wood, panelled, and painted
in delicate, warm shades of cream with pale-blue
ceilings. The floors were covered with fine mattings and rugs. Upon the walls were good paintings
in oil and water-colour, with photographs of famous
pictures. There were luxurious lounges and easychairs, heaped with beautifully embroidered silken
cushions; tables covered with books; and there
were flowers in bowls and vases everywhere. There
were more books in the cases and shelves, and with
them the American magazines in their familiar
covers. There was a copy of Clytie in Parian marble
standing upon her pedestal, with a background of
maroon velvet; while there were table-covers and
draperies decorated with the most exquisite needlework. The glance could turn in no direction but
that it rested upon dainty bric-A-brac —harmony in
form and colour that is only possible to perfectly
cultivated taste.
People lived much in their verandahs, and my
favourite lounging-place was a capacious hammock
slung across one corner, where I could lie and read
and dream, looking off across the blue Pacific, over
the tops of the palm-trees, for miles away to the
dim horizon line. In front of the verandah was a
semi-circular rose garden, around which ran a narrow,
limpid stream, with smooth, thick turf clothing its
shallow banks to the water's edge. In the centre of
the garden was a stately traveller's palm, while the




228


IN HILO.


[Ch. XIX.


walks were thickly bordered with splendid tropical
ferns, varieties which we can scarcely coax to grow
in the artificial warmth of our greenhouses. The
roses were magnificent, white, pink, and crimson,
and they filled the air with their fragrance. They
had not yet been attacked by the beetle, supposed
to have been imported from Japan, which had utterly
destroyed all the roses in Honolulu, a strict quarantine being maintained against all plants imported
into Hawaii from the island of Oahu. In addition
to the little stream which encircled this lovely rose
garden was another which babbled under my window,
dropping down in a foaming cataract. In the moonlight this cataract, with its overshadowing cocoanutpalm, beneath the great, luminous tropical stars,
which here seem so very close to earth, was a bit of
fairyland. Across the steep street, surrounded by
a moss-grown wall of volcanic stone, were the
grounds of the court-house, also crossed by a running
stream, with a shaven lawn, palms, giant bamboos,
flower-beds, and fern-borders.  I thought of the
tobacco-stained corridors of the Chicago City Hall,
and could not help reflecting that, if annexation
came, perhaps it would be the mission of our
Hawaiian foster-brothers to teach us the fundamental principles of real civilisation. The courthouse was an unpretentious wooden structure, and
amazingly clean, considering that its verandahs were
the favourite congregating-places of the natives.




i894.]


A FEMALE PASTOR.


229


I attended a meeting of the Ladies' Shakespeare
Class during my visit to Hilo, and listened with
interest to the reading and the very animated, intelligent discussion of Henry IV. To give an idea of
the progressive spirit of the place, it need only be
stated that there were two women physicians in Hilo,
each having an extensive practice, and one woman
lawyer, who had graduated with honours from Michigan University and was then practising in Maui,
having married a physician there.  The deputy
sheriff was a woman. During the temporary disability of the pastor a woman had been asked to take
charge of the Congregational Church, and women
were at the head of both the Government School and
the Boys' Boarding School. A permanent resident
laughingly warned me "not to put any more notions
in the women's heads, or," he said, "the men will
have to emigrate." From my observation, however,
there appeared to be a very hearty acquiescence and
co-operation on the part of the husbands and fathers
and brothers, who were not at all cast in the shade
by the clever, energetic wives and sisters who had
been given so prominent a place in public affairs.
The village of Hilo is quaint and fascinating, with
its stony streets and beautiful surroundings. It is
girt by tropical forests, with miles upon miles of
sugar plantations, the snow-clad peaks of Mauna
Loa and Mauna Kea looking down upon it and
across the bay, one of the most beautiful sheets of




230


IN HILO.


[Ch. XIX.


water in the world.  A single island breaks the
regularity of its surface-a small mass of volcanic
rock, which is covered with venerable cocoanut
trees and screw palms. A picnic was given there
during my stay. We drove to the bungalow on the
shore, where we left the phaeton. Others of the
party, being on horseback, dismounted, and we
were rowed across to the island. Some repaired to
the cottage which had been erected as a shelter, put
on their bathing-dresses, and plunged into the surf.
I stood upon the lava and watched them swimming
about in the clear, blue water like mermaids, my
attention distracted by the wonderful blue and brown
and scarlet gold-flecked fish which had been stranded
in the pools left among the rocks by the recession of
the tide.
One of the most interesting social events during
my visit was a luau (a native feast), given by Mr.
L —, the Government surveyor. It is customary,
when the weather is favourable, to hold a luau in an
arbour constructed of bamboo, thatched with palm
leaves and festooned with garlands. The weather
prohibited the arbour, so the feast was served in the
long verandah. A screen of the branches of the
magnificent ginger plant had been arranged to shut
out the rain, while ferns and flowers were fastened
against the opposite wall. The floor was also thickly
strewn with ferns, with a broad band of crimson
pandanus leaves down the centre of this green car



I894-]


NATIVE COOKERY.


231


peted space. On this were arranged bowls of poi
of all sizes and conditions. There was no tablecloth,
ferns being the substitute. Over the ferns were
scattered young onions and heaps of water-lemons -
a delicious, juicy fruit which, outwardly, resembles
a small gourd. No plates were used. The pork,
taro, chicken, and mullet, of which the menu consisted, were cut up and wrapped in young taro
leaves, with a covering of banana and an outer wrapping of ti leaf. The latter was given a deft twist
which left the long stem as a sort of handle. This
food had been cooked for many hours, a hole being
dug in the ground and lined with heated stones.
This primitive oven was then filled with taro leaves,
in which the fish, pork, and chicken were placed; a
little water was added, then the whole was covered
with earth to cook slowly and gradually. It was
the native method of preparing food, and the flavour
was certainly delicious. In point of excellence we
have hardly improved upon it. The guests were assigned their places and sat down on the fern-covered
floor, and the viands were passed round. The leafy
wrappings were opened, and the savoury morsels
inside were eaten with the fingers. The juices had
been confined in the wrappers of leaf, and the taro,
which is the luau that gives the feast its name,
imparts to the meat its own delicate flavour. Between bites of pork or fish those to the manner born
dipped their fingers into the bowl of poi which stood




232


IN HILO.


[Ch. XIX.


before each plate, drew out a sticky wad, and transferred it to the mouth with astonishing dexterity.
Those not to the manner born clumsily imitated their
example, but made rather a dribbling, messy failure
of it. Onions were eaten liberally, and also sweet
potatoes, with salted shrimps, which are placed
upon the board alive by native Hawaiians at their
luaus, and so devoured. It was a gay little entertainment, accompanied by laughing and hilarious
conversation, all the guests talking at once, the
residents finding much amusement in the heroic
efforts of the visitors to eat with their fingers and
swallow the poi without a grimace.  It will be
remembered when more ceremonious and pretentious
functions have long been forgotten.
Among the guests was Professor Albert Koebele,
formerly of California. He was well known throughout the United States as an entomologist of the
highest attainments. He had been formerly employed
by the Agricultural Department in Washington, and
in his professional capacity had travelled all over the
world. The stories of his experiences in Tahiti and
elsewhere in the South Seas were as marvellous as
romance; for, though naturally diffident and retiring,
he talked extremely well, with the encouragement
of an appreciative audience. His greatest work was
the introduction of the Vedelia cardinalis from
Australia into the orange and lemon orchards of
California. This "lady-bird" preys upon the para



1894.]


BLIGHT AND PARASITES.


233


site known as the "scale-blight," which is so destructive to the orchards, and which it completely
destroyed. This was an experiment of his own,
and its success was due to his individual effort.
He gave me an interesting account of it, having
proceeded upon the theory, well known in natural
history, that all living creatures have their enemies
in parasites, and that it was only necessary to discover the natural enemy of the scale-blight. This
he found in the lady-bird, of which there are many
hundred species in Australia.  It is a tiny beetle
which hides in the bark of trees, and must be collected, a few at a time, so that the search for an
ordinary supply is long and laborious. He told me
that he shipped five thousand in one box; they were
frozen until they became torpid, and a small supply
of scale-blight was placed in each box, for food in
case the insect revived. When they reached their
destination, they were simply turned loose in
orchards where their services were required, and they
fell upon the affected trees at once and rapidly
cleared them. As Professor Koebele was a scientist,
and not a politician, he was not able to cope with
his political rivals, who conspired to prevent the
success of his discovery.  He left what was supposed
to be a trustworthy agent in California, with implicit instructions as to the disposition of the beetles
when they should be received. Instead of obeying
orders the jealous agent permitted the entire first




234


IN HILO.


[Ch. XIX.


shipment to die, and then reported in Washington
that the experiment had been a failure. Fortunately
Professor Koebele had sent a number of the beetles
to friends who were fruit-growers, and these being
saved proved the truth of his assertions. However,
as is usual, while it has saved the Californian fruitgrowers thousands of dollars, the discoverer did not
profit in any way by his labour. He was a slight,
delicate-looking man, only forty-one years of age,
with a clear olive complexion, fine regular features,
and dark-brown eyes, refined in manner and appearance.  He was subsequently employed by the
Hawaiian Provisional Government at a salary of
$5,000 per annum, and was about to set forth on an
expedition to discover an enemy of the coffee-blight,
which he felt sanguine that he would be able to find.
I met him subsequently in Sydney, and went with
him on one of his beetle-hunting expeditions in an
orange plantation near Paramatta.  His method
there was to find a tree covered with blight upon
which the beetles were feeding. An open umbrella
was placed under the lower boughs, which were
beaten with a walking-stick, shaking the insects
into the receptacle below. They were then scooped
up, and placed in wide-mouthed vials, ready for the
process of freezing.  From  Australia Professor
Koebele expected to visit Ceylon, India, China, and
Northern Africa.




CHAPTER XX.


A LITTLE JOURNEY TO KILEAUEA.
THE very first question put to the tourist returning from the Hawaiian Islands is, "Did you
see the volcano?" A reply in the negative is always
disappointing, and the questioner invariably wonders
why any one should have taken so long a journey
only to miss its most interesting feature. It is consequently almost a matter of self-respect to be able
to answer " Yes." I had had the first experience the
previous year; now I should have the latter, and felt
that fate had made amends.
Formerly the ascent was made by a rough trail on
horseback; but within the past three years the Government has completed a fine road from Hilo to the
crater, so that the journey, once so fatiguing, can
now be made comfortably and conveniently in a
day's time. Before the road was finished tourists
were forced to carry with them not only food but
bedding and fuel, spending the night at a rude
half-way house, which furnished shelter only. The
narrow track over the lava was so steep and rough
that horses had to walk at a snail's pace the entire
distance.
235




236 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO KILEAUEA. [Ch. XX.


My friend Mrs. L-     and I visited Kileauea in
the month of February. We left Hilo immediately
after breakfast upon a lovely tropical morning. For
once the incessant downpour of rain had ceased, and
we had a fine view of the snow-covered peaks of
Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea —peaks of dazzling
crystal softly outlined against the deep-blue sky.
We had booked our seats in the stage-coach, a dilapidated vehicle drawn by four gaunt horses in rather
rusty harness, and driven by a bashful, good-natured
Scotchman. In addition to taking charge of the
luggage the driver obligingly distributed along the
entire thirty miles of the route newspapers, letters,
and parcels, and he was also the custodian of a
good-sized box of joints and steaks, sent by the
butchers in Hilo to their customers in the upland
plantations. The steaks were deftly hooked to a
crane by the roadside, or, with the joints, deposited
upon a shelf in a box out of reach of hungry animals.
Occasionally the black-eyed Hawaiian cook, displaying two rows of white teeth in an amiable smile,
would suddenly appear out of the bush, attracted by
the rattle of our wheels, and take the driver's supplies herself. As she usually wore a wreath of
flowers on her head or about her throat, her sudden
appearance out of the dense greenery gave her some
semblance to a modern variety of dryad, perverted
to the utilitarian uses of a prosaic age.
Few bungalows could be seen, or the plantations




I894.]


CHINESE AND JAPANESE.


237


about them, those on the highlands being devoted
to the cultivation of coffee. A narrow path was cut
through the thick undergrowth, which rose almost
like a wall on either hand, and at the end of the path
a glimpse could be had of sloping roofs and pretty
gardens.
The road from Hilo is a gradual ascent, and the
change in vegetation, as we left the lower lands
along the sea, gave one the impression of having
passed from summer to autumn within the lapse of
a few hours. As we ascended it grew perceptibly
cooler, the face of the landscape altered, and there
was in the air the chill and pervasive melancholy
of an October day. We left Hilo, driving through
the Chinese quarter with its picturesque shops, tiny
children playing about in their familiar little costumes of pink, blue, and yellow, the boys' queues
lengthened as usual by interwoven threads of rosecoloured cords.
Just beyond these Chinese huts were the canefields, an intense yellow-green, the long, slender
leaves tossing in the breeze like a maize-field before
the harvest. There were great bands of Japanese at
work in the field.  They are labourers who can
endure the heat and dust of the cane-field, and they
work with incredible rapidity, the line of men crossing a field, levelling the cane with a stroke of the
sharp knife which they use for the purpose.  As
they return, they collect the cane, tie it into bun



238 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO KILEAUEA. [Ch. XX.


dies, and load it on the cars of the little narrowgauge railway, a temporary, movable line being laid
between the mills and the fields, and shifted as
occasion may require.
Some distance beyond the cane lands we plunged
into the depths of a marvellous tropical forest.
Through this forest the coffee plantations multiplied,
the young plants growing either in cleared spaces or
in the midst of shrubs and bushes. Beyond the first
forest was a wide expanse of sloping plain covered
with ferns of the most extraordinary hues —pink,
green, rose-coloured, and purple. From this point
there was a fine view of the sea surrounding three
sides of the island, and Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea
reappeared, their lower slopes covered with rich
vegetation.
We passed many native houses. These, alas! are
no longer the beautiful grass houses of the old
Hawaiians, but rude wooden cottages with a broad
verandah in front. Upon this verandah the family
was usually assembled, sitting indolently about on
mats. The women were clad in holokus, and were
stout to unwieldiness from the consumption of poi.
Occasionally a group would be seen enjoying a social
pipe, men and women passing it from hand to hand,
each taking a temperate whiff. Even in the poorest
cottages servants seemed to be employed for the
more menial work, while the mistress lolled at ease
upon her cushions. Upon the fences here and there




1894.]


HALF-WAY HOUSE.


239


patchwork quilts were hung out to air, and they were
of startling design and colour. The grounds about
these native houses were, as a rule, untidy and dirty,
strewn with worn-out kitchen utensils, rags, sticks,
and straw, with perhaps a flower-bed, the drooping
plants fighting for existence in a wilderness of weeds.
The fencing most used was sections of the trunks of
tree-ferns; these have a wonderful tenacity of life,
and had sent out young shoots until it seemed to be
a hedge of matted fronds.
Much of the land in this region formerly belonged
to the Crown, and could be neither bought nor
leased; it had therefore remained unproductive.
Under the new Government it has been surveyed,
placed upon the market, and sold, freehold, in small
tracts, thus enabling the natives to own their homes.
Much of it is being rapidly brought under cultivation
and planted with coffee and pineapples.
At noon we stopped for luncheon at the new halfway house which has supplanted the old structure,
a comfortable little inn on the edge of the second
forest, reached either by the winding drive or a flight
of steep wooden steps. From the verandah, where
our coffee was served, we looked down on the forest,
in which we heard for the first time the delightful
singing of birds. That which we had first crossed
was absolutely silent, the only living thing we had
seen being a mongoose, which ran across the road,
plunged into the thicket, and disappeared. The




240 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO KILEAUEA. [Ch. XX.


birds were of the most brilliant plumage, delighting
both the eye and the ear. We had with our coffee
an appetising luncheon of new-laid eggs and bacon,
which we ate in leisurely fashion, enjoying the hour
of rest which we had been allowed. The trees were
quite different now, and we saw nothing more of the
strange i-id, a huge vine with brilliant scarlet
cones; instead, there were clusters of giant bananas,
with the grey-green and jaggy-leafed screw palm,
and the kukui, or candle-nut.
When we resumed the journey we presently came
upon a crowd of convicts working on the new road
to the volcano, of which at that time there were
three miles still to be constructed. The men were
oddly uniformed in a combination suit of cotton,
one side brown and the other blue. The prison was
a flimsy affair, and the routine of locking up the
men at night must have been a mere form; there
were few guards, and the door would have yielded
to very slight pressure. The convicts were chiefly
Japanese and Chinese, convicted of violating their
contracts with the planters, gambling, smoking
opium, or petty theft. They seemed very mild and
tractable, and were well fed and kindly treated. It
might be said, parenthetically, that the entire population of the Islands, native and immigrant, though
extremely heterogeneous, is most peaceful and lawabiding, violence and the graver offences being
extremely rare. The road to the volcano was an




1894.]


IN THE CRATER.


241


elaborate piece of engineering, and, owing to the
peculiar character of the soil, its construction was
labour of the most difficult nature. In many places
the solid lava had to be blasted by heavy charges of
dynamite; here a yawning gulch had to be filled, and
there a shelving ridge cut away. At one point a
causeway was thrown across the crater of an extinct
volcano sixty feet in depth, its sides covered with
moss and trailing vines, while within the hollow cone
was a wild tangle of ferns and bananas.
The hotel at the volcano is an excellent one, with
good service and palatable food. I had imagined
that it stood on a plateau of naked lava, and was
unprepared therefore for the thick growth of koa and
lehua which clothed the entire outer ruin. By the
roadside as we approached was the richest grass
with clusters of pale-pink eglantine. As we neared
our destination the steep wall of the crater, a circular sweep of nine miles, became perfectly distinct.
At one point it was broken away, and we drove
through the cleft into the hotel grounds, alighting
under the porte-cochere at the entrance. Trees grew
upon the inner as well as the outer wall of the crater,
and the hotel stood upon a grassy shelf some three
hundred feet in width. The contrast between the
blooming garden and the neatly shaven lawn, with
the barren waste of the yawning lava-strewn gulf
below, was very strange.
The floor of the crater is three miles in width, and




242 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO KILEAUEA. [Ch. XX.


is reached by an almost sheer descent of twelve hundred feet. The only path down this precipice is a
bridle-track, but the sure-footed horses that have
grown accustomed to it make no difficulty in picking their way through the yielding earth and stones.
The lake of fire, the core of the volcano, is at the
farthest side of the bed of the crater, and the guests
can stand upon the verandah and watch its crimson
billows rising and falling like the surges of a
stormy sea. When I went to my room I raised the
window-blind, and by the light of the dancing
flames three miles away could see distinctly the
hands of my watch.   We spent the evening, a
very contented and congenial trio, around a wood
fire which was blazing invitingly in a big open
fireplace in the billiard-room. This was the favourite rendezvous of the guests, who usually
deserted the more pretentious and modern drawing-room. It was a relic of the old hotel, and its
homely comfort was very alluring.  Mrs. Lhad arranged to meet her brother, an artist who
had just returned from Paris, where he had been
studying for several years, and who was then at
the volcano making studies of Kileauea. He was
a young man of decided genius, an interesting
talker, and beguiled the time with amusing stories
of his life in the American art colony in the French
capital. He had painted a study of the volcano
above the fireplace, as a contribution to the various




1894-1


A GUEST BOOK.


243


sketches and autographs that had been left by distinguished travellers.
Kileauea has been visited by tourists from all
parts of the world. Among them were Lady Franklin (who was carried to the volcano by relays of
natives), Miss Gordon Cumming, and Mrs. Bishop.
Many distinguished people have written their names
upon the pages of the hotel register, and have added
reflections and comments that were occasionally in
keeping with the sublimity of the scene that had
moved them out of their prosaic and every-day mood.
Taken altogether, however, it was a sort of gamut
of the human emotions, from awe and wonder to
frivolity and drivelling idiocy. I found two apostrophes in verse which did fitting honour to this, one
of the greatest spectacles of Nature. Of the rest,
the less said the better, for many of the notes were
a painful commentary upon the limitations of human
intelligence. Two gifted creatures had written respectively, "0 me!" and "0 my!"    There were
several clever pen-and-ink sketches and semiamusing caricatures of tourists. Among the collections was a "Vision " by Mark Twain, written at the
time of his visit in I866. It was republished in one
of the Honolulu papers, and a copy was sent to him.
When he was living in Hartford, Connecticut, he
acknowledged the authorship, but explained that
he "must have been pretty young then, or sick, or
something," and asked that it might be taken out




244 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO KILEAUEA. [Ch. XX.


of the record, or, by way of atonement, the letter
of explanation pasted beside it to keep it company,
which has doubtless been done.
The next morning there was a heavy hailstorm,
an almost unheard-of phenomenon, which delayed
our descent into the crater until the afternoon. The
delight and wonder of the natives as they collected
the big hailstones, crunching them with their white
teeth, were very amusing. They had never seen such
a thing before, and, still extremely superstitious
under the thin veneer of their Christianity, they
ascribed the storm to a supernatural cause. In the
interval of waiting, the sun having come out again,
we explored the place about the hotel. A few yards
away were some very interesting sulphur banks, the
scalding steam escaping through crevices, the openings being thickly coated with yellow crystals.
Here, strangely enough, the nasturtium grew luxuriantly, and the ohelo, a low shrub whose delicately
flavoured berries were once sacred to Pele, the deity
supposed to preside over Kileauea. Almost immediately after luncheon the horses were brought
round, mine a stupid, hard-mouthed steed, whose
anatomy presented an array of angular bones.
In the Sandwich Islands everywhere - in the
cities as well as in the country -ladies universally
ride astride.  The habit consists of a graceful
divided skirt pleated very full over the hips, so that
when the rider alights it falls together like the folds




I894.]


A MOLTEN SEA.


245


of an ordinary kilted gown. Not having the conventional costume, I managed a rather shabby substitute,
a green Newmarket coat with longish skirts, which
separated and hung down on either side; my appearance was not improved by the battered cap and
bulging gloves that completed the dress.
We rode away in single file, the proprietor of the
hotel (the most loquacious of landlords), H — (the
young artist), myself, and a motley company of
Hawaiian guides.
The path, at all times uncertain, had been badly
washed by the rain of the previous morning, and as
my horse floundered and scrambled in the mud I
expected every moment that a land-slip would precipitate us over the edge of the cliff into the abyss
below. But the animal was experienced and surefooted, and he leaped across boulders and fissures
like a goat; it was a special good fortune, not good
horsemanship, that enabled me to keep my saddle.
Once upon the solid floor of the crater I looked about
me, and surely nowhere upon the globe is there a
spectacle more grim, forbidding, and awe-inspiring.
The black cliffs, with their nine miles' circumference, as clearly defined as walls of masonry, rose
almost perpendicularly, to a height of from five hundred to twelve hundred feet. No stratification was
apparent, but the elevated masses were heaped together in confusion, while in the bottom of the crater
successive floods had poured from the lake and




246 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO KILEAUEA. [Ch. XX.


spread themselves in myriad fantastic forms. There
were what seemed to be heaps of stained and blackened sail-cloth, twisted strands of giant cable, shapeless mounds, and here and there apparently the
perfectly outlined remains of animals thinly covered
with mud.
As we moved slowly along we had to halt now and
then, as blinding clouds of steam strongly impregnated with sulphur completely hid us from each
other. In order to keep the file of horses on the
trail in such circumstances, a low, irregular wall
had been loosely thrown together along either side
of the faintly defined path; the surface beneath,
while the heat of subterranean fire could be felt, was
sufficiently thick to be quite secure; outside this
walled track the crust varied, and it was the part of
wisdom to keep in the path. The volcano is not
always active; it has irregular periods of quiescence,
when the lake is simply a great empty basin some
two hundred feet in depth. There is then not a
vestige of heat, and not even a fissure has been discovered after the molten mass has escaped into the
fathomless and unexplored depths beneath its bed,
which closes completely.  After a time smoke
appears, the lava flows in again from below, rising
higher and higher, until the bed is quite full, and a
rim some five feet in height, which cools and hardens,
is deposited around the margin of the lake.
One may make the long journey comparatively in




i894.]


A NARROW ESCAPE.


247


vain, since, without the burning flames, interesting
and impressing as Kileauea must always be, the final
touch of weirdness is wanting.
At the time of my visit, fortunately, the volcano
was more active than it had been for many years,
and as we approached the lake the heat became very
intense. In our slow progress through steam and
stifling gas over the lava, we crossed a bridge which
spanned a chasm some twenty feet in width. Mr.
H- said that he had been down in the crater when
this chasm had opened. It was late in the afternoon, and he was alone. Suddenly the cliffs trembled; there was a noise like muffled thunder, and
the chasm opened at his feet; he followed it to its
narrowest point, leaped across, and ran up the path
along the cliffs, escaping without accident; but he
met a company of guides hurrying to his rescue,
greatly alarmed for his safety. A few months before
my visit a hut had been destroyed by the lava, which
had been erected near the fiery lake for the convenience of tourists who came down into the crater at
night; after this it was considered prudent that
night visits be discontinued.
We dismounted near the ruins of the hut, leaving our horses, and proceeded to the edge of the
lake on foot. Every moment the clouds of steam
seemed to grow more dense, and the gas which we
inhaled became so oppressive that breathing was
difficult, and we were forced to cover our mouths




248 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO KILEAUEA. [Ch. XX.


with our handkerchiefs. Fortunately a favouring
wind lifted the heavy vapour and carried it away,
and the scene that revealed itself was indescribable. Before us stretched a sheet of molten lava
one thousand feet in length and six hundred in
width, the surface covered with a greyish film, which
was crossed with a thousand white-hot seams; from
these leaped innumerable flames, waving and bending and dancing like goblin torches.  Near the
centre rose and fell two mighty fountains of fire
fully forty feet in height, leaping into the air and
subsiding with a terrific roar. The mass was comparatively still near where we stood, but now and
then the grey surface would wrinkle ominously, lift
slowly, and sink, with little jets of smoke breaking
out here and there. It was a grim intimation that
it was a calm not to be trusted - a reminder that
the molten mass might at any moment stream over
the margin upon which we had a precarious foothold,
and over which, indeed, through field-glasses, we
saw the grey, smoky cascade pouring the next
morning.
While we were watching the tremendous spectacle
our Hawaiian guides were unconcernedly making
what they called "specimens," dipping coins into
the lava from the point of a cleft stick, which smoked
and burned in the process.
The awful lake was never calm for a moment; the
white-hot seams in the bubbling mass opened and




I894.]


PELL.


249


closed, the flames leaped up and died away and
leaped up again like flaring flambeaux, and over all
shone the fierce light of the two appalling geysers.
It was little wonder that the natives formerly believed that it was inhabited by PelM, the most cruel
of their deities, whose wrath could be propitiated
only by frequent offerings of living sacrifices. We
stood watching the impressive spectacle in silence,
fascinated by its unearthly grandeur, until a guide
reminded us that it was growing late, and that we
must retrace our path across the lava before nightfall. We walked back to the ruined hut, remounted
our horses, and returned to the cliff, up which the
horses carried us in safety. Evening was closing in,
stormy clouds floated across the sky, and over the
scene of desolation below us, the rising mist and
smoke and the glow of the lake of fire, hung the
pale horn of the crescent moon.




CHAPTER XXI.


SOCIAL LIFE.
THE excellence of the servants, the perfection
of the climate, the absence of many of the ills
against which house-keepers wage ceaseless war in
England and the United States, as well as of the
varied amusements which are offered the public in
American and European cities, have brought the art
of entertaining, as it is understood in Honolulu,
very nearly to perfection. People have been thrown
upon their own resources, and, there being neither
theatre nor opera to distract their attention, have
made their dinners and luncheons and picnics a
compensating substitute.
The reciprocity treaty with the United States,
which has been already mentioned, and which, it
will be remembered, was negotiated in 1876, revolutionised the commercial and social status of the
Islands.  Up to that time, while there was no
oppressive poverty, neither was there any very great
wealth, except among a few of the highest chiefs
and chiefesses; and their possessions were mostly
250




1894.]  MARK TWAIN'S EXPERIENCES.


251


in land, much of it uncultivated, so that they had
no great excess of ready money, and lived simply and
unostentatiously.
When Mark Twain visited the Islands in I866,
Honolulu contained, as he states, "between twelve
and fifteen thousand inhabitants."  He found "a
place of contrasts, with dwellings built of straw,
adobe, and cream-coloured coral cut into oblong
blocks and laid in cement; also a great number of
neat white cottages with green window-shutters."
There were none of the " flat front yards like billiardtables with iron fences around them," such as he had
seen in San Francisco.  "I saw these houses," he
writes, "surrounded by ample yards, and shaded by
tall trees, through whose dense foliage the sun
could scarcely penetrate... huge-bodied, widespreading forest trees, with strange names and
strange appearance -trees that cast a shadow like a
thunder-cloud, and were able to stand alone without
being tied to green poles.  In place of fish wriggling
around in glass globes, assuming countless shades
of distortion through the magnifying and diminishing
quality of their prison, I saw cats -Tom cats, Mary
Ann cats, long-tailed cats, bob-tailed cats, wall-eyed
cats, cross-eyed cats, grey cats, black cats, white
cats, yellow cats, striped cats, spotted cats, tame cats,
wild cats, singed cats, individual cats, groups of
cats, platoons of cats, companies of cats, regiments of cats, armies of cats, multitudes of cats,




252


SOCIAL LIFE.


[Ch. XXI.


millions of cats, and all of them sleek, fat, lazy,
and sound asleep.   I looked on a multitude of
people, some white, in white coats, vests, pantaloons,
and even white-cloth shoes, made snowy daily with
chalk laid on every morning; but the majority of the
people were almost as dark as negroes, - women
with comely features, fine dark eyes, and rounded
forms, inclining to the voluptuous, and clad in a
single bright-red or white garment that fell free and
unconfined from shoulder to heel, long black hair
falling loose and encircled with wreaths of natural
flowers of a brilliant carmine tint; plenty of dark
men in various costumes and some with nothing
on but a battered stove-pipe hat, tilted on the nose,
and a very scant breech-cloth; certain smoke-dried
children were clad in nothing but sunshine -a
very neat-fitting and picturesque apparel indeed."
The changes that have taken place since this was
written have been remarkable. A city with tramlines, electric lights, water-works, police, well-filled
shops, with handsome residences and villas, has
entirely effaced the old town of thirty years ago.
The native in his silk hat and breech-cloth has
been gathered to his fathers long ago, and the single
red garment of the women has been abandoned for
the be-flounced, modernised holoku, or, worse still,
for fashionable gowns and French corsets.  The
children who were primitively clothed in sunshine
have grown up, and, after having been taught in the




A


L   __  1_*   to  t t_  as  v _  +_


1894.J    EFFECTS OF EDUCATION.           253
public schools, the Royal School for Boys or the
Kawaiahao Seminary for Girls, are now influential
members of society, and their children trot to school
morning and noon in the neatest of print frocks and
white pinafores, or cleanly coats and trousers. They
have kept nothing but their love of flowers, their
dark hair and eyes, and their dark skin, and even
the latter has seen several variations in tint from
infusion of alien blood in later generations.
The men of the lower classes are labourers, preferring employment on ships or about the docks to
tilling the soil; or they are mechanics. Those a
grade higher are clerks, a few have gone into the
professions, and others have been employed in the
Government offices. Mr. Thurston in his handbook
has called attention to the fact that the Speaker
of the House in the last Legislature was a native.
Education has had the same effect upon the Hawaiians that it has had upon the natives of India and the
Maoris of New Zealand. It has made them unwilling to work at manual labour; and the law, which
they prefer to follow, with the limited number of
clerkships at their disposal, is hopelessly overcrowded.
The admirable Manual Training School, founded
and endowed by Mrs. Bishop, may afford some relief,
since upon the farm connected with it and in the
workshops excellent instruction is given under competent and well-trained teachers, most of them from




254


SOCIAL LIFE.


[Ch. XXI.


institutions of technology in the United States.
Scientific farming on the allotments which the
natives can now purchase at low rates ought to be
very remunerative; for, where it is fertile at all, the
soil is extraordinarily productive, and almost everything except cereals and the fruits that are indigenous
to colder climates can be produced.
The effect of the reciprocity treaty was immediate.
Plantations were multiplied, the old improved, the
cultivation of cane being carried on after the best
methods, and the mills being not only furnished
with all the newest improved machinery, but the
American managers in several instances having
invented labour-saving appliances of the greatest
value, like the ingenious "shredder," which rapidly
tears the cane to pieces, simplifying the work of
extracting the juice, patented a few years ago by
Mr. John A. Scott, of the Hilo Sugar Company.
Indeed, a list of inventions made by practical sugar
manufacturers in the Islands would be as surprising
as it is interesting.
The industry not only doubled but trebled, and
the sugar-planters made great fortunes - a state of
prosperity in which their employes shared. They
built fine houses, which were luxuriously furnished
and supplied with all the accessories - baths, electric lights, telephones, and electric bells -that one
would find in a modern mansion in Chicago or New
York. My friends the W —'s, whose guest I had




I894.1


HAWAIIAN BREAKFAST.


255


the privilege to be for three delightful months, had
their own dynamo, which furnished the light for the
house, the stables, and the billiard-room. Their
grounds were finely cultivated, the main avenue
being planted with rows of royal palms —a long
remove, all this, from the little white houses with
green blinds of Mark Twain's memory.
The usual breakfast-hour in the Islands is eight or
half-past eight o'clock, and the meal is American
rather than English.   Like the Americans, the
people are coffee-drinkers, not tea-drinkers. There
are very few houses in which five-o'clock tea is
served. Breakfast begins, as in the United States,
with fresh fruit, oranges, guavas sliced and served
with sugar and cream, or delicious strawberries,
which ripen all the year round. There are the same
varieties of hot cakes that are included in an American breakfast menu, and one at least that is not.
This is the very dream of a hot cake. It is made of
the root of the taro, boiled until it is quite soft,
then it is mashed and beaten into a light batter, a
little salt added, and nothing more, and baked in
muffin tins in a hot oven; it is eaten with butter,
and with a cup of the incomparable kona coffeethe indigenous coffee - it would satisfy an epicure.
With this are served steak, chops, or salt fish, eggs
and toast, with potatoes cooked in various ways.
For luncheon there are usually cold meats, cold
bread, or hot biscuits - biscuit as the term is used




256


SOCIAL LIFE.


[Ch. XXI.


in America —with a compote of stewed mangoes,
which is very delicious, potatoes again, with cake,
fruit, and tea; the tea, as it will be observed,
being taken in the middle of the day, one o'clock
being the ordinary luncheon hour. A dinner is like
the ordinary dinner anywhere, with soup, joint,
entr6es, sweets, dessert, and coffee, claret being the
wine in common use, with champagne for more festive occasions.
Ladies have their day at home, and are punctilious
in the matter of returning calls, keeping a conscientious account of their visiting list. An "at home"
in one of these delightful houses is certainly a very
satisfactory form of entertainment; it has neither the
exaggerated show and parade of an American reception, nor the stiffness and formality that frequently
attend the same function in England. In what constitutes society the ladies are all acquainted, not
only with each other, but with all each other's kith
and kin, like old county families in England. But,
unlike old county families in England, they are so
accustomed to strangers in their midst, that the peripatetic tourist, who always comes bristling with letters of introduction, is received with an unfailing
kindness, although their boundless hospitality has
been sorely taxed for the past twenty years and
grievously abused times without number. Unlike
the old county families again, these globe-trotters
are received into full communion, and it is a point




i894.]


MANNERS AND CUSTOMS.


257


in Honolulu etiquette that no subject shall be introduced or discussed in their presence upon which the
visitors are not at least moderately well informed,
and upon which they too cannot freely talk. You
never hear any of that "Yes, dear Julia is still
frightfully ill, poor thing; the Smythes think she
will not recover in time to go with them to Norway,"
or "Sir Reginald came home yesterday, and Lady
Ellen with him. Fancy!" which echoes through
London drawing-rooms during the season, and makes
the outsider feel as if he were an atom on the outermost rim of the universe. To discuss dear Julia or
Sir Reginald or Lady Ellen before strangers who
had never heard their names before would be considered ill-bred, and in this Honolulu etiquette is
American rather than English. At these entertainments, where every one talks with animation and
amiability, where the less well-known guests are
carefully introduced, there is usually a musical programme, and cakes, fruits, and ices are served in the
lanai or on the verandah.
Swimming and riding are two favourite amusements, and in both accomplishments women, foreignborn Hawaiians (those born in the islands of
American or European parents), with the new-comers
and natives, are experts. Every one rides astride.
There are no such horse-women in the world; they
sit perfectly erect, and go like the wind over the
roughest roads and the wildest, steepest bridle-paths
17




258


SOCIAL LIFE.


[Ch. XXI.


up the mountains. One of the most accomplished
riders in Honolulu at the time of my visit was Miss
G —, the daughter of the German Consul. I
remember an amusing circumstance. She was calling at the American Legation, and when she rose to
go one of the American naval officers who happened
to be there at the same time escorted her to the gate,
where her horse was tied. He looked at the saddle
dubiously, then at the pretty rider in her kilted
habit, and said hesitatingly and much embarrassed,
"I would assist you to mount, Miss G -, if - if -
if you were using an ordinary saddle."  "Thanks,"
she replied, smilingly comprehending his dilemma,
"but I do not require any assistance." And she
sprang upon her horse and' dashed away with the
grace of a young centaur. The bewildered sailor
looked after her much as he might have watched the
rapid flight of a strange but interesting bird.
On seeing the security and ease with which these
Hawaiian women sit in their saddles, one wonders
that there ever could have been any prejudice against
women riding in a manner that, like most other
comfortable and sensible fashions, has been monopolised by men. Certain it is no man could be induced to twist his knee round the pommel and
balance himself in a side-saddle, as is considered the
fit and proper thing for women. One needs only to
see the ordinary and the Hawaiian fashion contrasted
- the rider in her divided skirts seated on her horse




1894.]


SWIMMING PARTIES.


259


as if she were a part of it, and the woman in the
conventional habit, more or less insecure and a good
deal more ungraceful -to realise how much the first
is to be preferred.
Women of all classes and conditions swim as well
as they ride. The warm climate is partially accountable for this, with the perfection of the bathing.
Outside the reefs the sea swarms with sharks, which
infest the entire Southern Pacific.  But the reefs
form a barrier which they rarely ever cross, so that
the lagoon is not only an ideal but perfectly safe
bathing-place.  One swims in Honolulu as one
walks or drives elsewhere, quite as a matter of
course. At a luncheon given at a seaside villa,
where the lanai frequently fronts the sea, its steps
leading down into the water, the first question is
not "Would you like to walk about the garden?"
but "Will you have a swim?" The question is
almost invariably answered in the affirmative, and
the guests go to their rooms, put on the bathingdresses that are furnished them, return, pass through
the lanai, have their swim, and a comfortable lounge
afterwards before luncheon is served. Usually no
men are present at these luncheons; but it would
make no difference if there were, for, after the
American fashion, which seems so shocking to English prudery, men and women bathe together.
Frequently riding and swimming parties are combined.  Riding out to Waikiki on a moonlight




260


SOCIAL LIFE.


[Ch. XXI.


night on horseback, the entire party take a dip in
the warm lagoon, which is followed by a gay little
supper and the ride home afterwards, frequently long
past midnight.  Balls and swimming parties are
also much in favour, and I had the good fortune to
be present at one such entertainment during my
first visit. It was given in the villa at Waikiki to
the officers of H.M.S. Garnet, and some of the
officers of the American cruisers, by an American
gentleman and his wife. There were a number of
handsome Hawaiian girls among the guests, almost
all in white gowns, which contrasted pleasingly with
the blue and gold of the officers' uniforms.
The music was furnished by the King's Singing
Boys - Kalakaua's quartette. They played upon a
very sweet-toned native instrument somewhat like a
mandolin, and not only played for the dancers, but
sang. The waltzing went on until midnight; then
the entire company suddenly dispersed to rooms set
apart for them; ball-gowns and uniforms were
changed for bathing-dresses, and after a short interval they returned to the lanai, thence to a narrow
quay jutting far out into the water. The Singing
Boys, all uniformed in white and wearing leis, left
the verandah where they had stationed themselves,
came out upon the quay, and to the sound of their
singing and playing, which still went on, men and
women leaped into the sea and swam to the strains
of music.




i894.]  FOREIGN SHIPS AND SAILORS.


26I


The moon was full; in the distance rose the
mountains, cloud-veiled and mysterious; the palms
along the beach rustled in the night wind; and with
the foam of the surf breaking upon the reef, with
the shimmering waves stretching to the horizon, the
tropical sky studded with stars that even the full
moon could not quench, the wild melancholy voices
of the singers blending with the lap and beat of the
waves, it was all Hawaiian -a characteristic bit of
the poetical and fascinating life.
When they were tired of swimming, mermen and
mermaids came out upon the quay and became
ordinary human beings once more; they returned to
the villa, resumed uniforms and ball-dresses, and the
dance went on. Dawn was breaking over Diamond
Head when the King's Singing Boys dismissed them
with the enchanting "Hawaii Ponoi," which is the
Hawaiian substitute for "God save the Queen."
The arrival of American or European cruisers is
always the beginning of a special season of festivity.
This is peculiarly true when the ships are American,
not only because of the natural affiliation of the
foreign-born Hawaiian, who is usually of American
descent, with his countrymen once removed, but because there is generally a renewal of old acquaintance
among the officers and residents. There is hardly
one of the older officers in the American Navy who
has not been in Honolulu once or oftener, and in
Honolulu albums there are series of photographs of




262


SOCIAL LIFE.


[Ch. XXI.


these gallant sailors, taken at various ages during
their recurring visits. I was shown one photograph
of a dashing and handsome young lieutenant who
had been there in i868, and had returned during the
Revolution grey, grizzled, and taciturn, his face
roughened and furrowed by the gales of more than
twenty years -a man whom Time had sobered as he
sobers the best of us.
American naval officers, though perhaps possessed
of less private means than many English and European officers, are liberally paid, as public service
goes. At any rate they are liberal and hospitable
to a fault. There is always on board a succession
of entertainments of greater or less elaborateness,
with officers' receptions. One very splendid ball
was given on board the Boston when political matters
had quieted down somewhat, and before the arrival
of Mr. Blount. The decks were covered with awnings of flags, and the sides screened with palms;
there were garlands of the fragrant stephanotis and
maile, and the supper-room was beautifully dressed
with flowers and ferns. In the centre of the suppertable was a mirror, and upon this a beautiful model
of the ship, made by one of the seamen, while the
cloth was bordered with more of the waxen clusters
and wreaths of stephanotis.
The guests were brought out to the ship in
launches, and the excellent band of the flag-ship
furnished the music. I had a stately armchair at




I894.]


ON BOARD THE BOSTON.


263


the upper part of the deck, where I looked on enjoying the picturesque scene intensely, and where I had
no less than seven separate relays of cake and ice
cream offered me by my attentive hosts. One of
them, more courageous than the rest, if that were
possible, insisted on carrying me down the gangway
that I might see with my own eyes the glory of the
supper-table. He assured me that his wife was an
invalid, and that, when he was on leave, he was
accustomed to carry her all about the house. I did
not doubt it, but nevertheless would not consent to
put his gallantry to such a test, though I managed
the descent after another fashion.
The English and Japanese officers-the latter
talking French very fluently when they could not
speak English- were resplendent in showy uniforms,
besides which those of the Americans looked modest
in the extreme. Yet I preferred my own countrymen, who, if they were outshone in the matter of
gold lace and brass buttons, were certainly not lacking in any of the essentials that are the characteristics, natural and acquired, of what the service terms
" an officer and a gentleman. 




CHAPTER XXII.


AN INTERLUDE.
A     FEW  uneventful weeks slipped by upon my
return from Hilo, and while deliberations
were still going on concerning the new Constitution
an opportunity was given me to visit New Zealand
and Australia, of which I gladly availed myself.
Up to within a few hours of sailing, however, my
departure was uncertain.  I had written to my
newspaper asking leave of absence, but had received
no reply. The Alameda was sighted at ten o'clock,
and having been detained by rough weather was to
remain in port but two hours. The letters I had
expected by her were not received, so I took the
matter into my own hands and decided to go without
permission. I had but two hours in which to pack
my trunks, and was intent upon this when Mr.
W —      telephoned that the captain had decided
to remain until evening. That gave me an opportunity to breathe again, and to finish my preparations with some sort of system and deliberation.  In
the afternoon President Dole called personally, and
brought me the passport which I was required to
264




I894.]  A TRIP TO NEW ZEALAND.


265


have -a courtesy and an honour which was thoroughly appreciated. At nine the W-s drove me
down to the dock. There was the inevitable concert
in the hotel grounds, the streets were flooded with
moonlight, and the air was sweet with the fragrance
of jasmine and orange flowers. There was a ball on
board the U. S. cruiser Adams, which had succeeded
the Mohican, the Boston, and the Alliance;  The
strains of the band came softly across the water, and
the forms of the dancers could be seen floating along
the brilliantly lighted deck. The steamer had been
coaling, and when she was ready to cast off a solid
line of natives extending from bow to stern pushed
against her side, and so literally shoved her from the
edge of the wharf.
Good-byes were exchanged again and again, the
departing ones were smothered in leis, the last words
were spoken, and we were off. The seas which we
were to cross stretched out illimitable before us, a
sheet of shimmering silver; the stars hung low overhead; and I sat upon the deck alone long after the
other passengers had turned in, watching the lights
of Honolulu fade in the distance, enjoying the rush
of the waves and the enchantment of the tropical
night. The Alameda, on which I had taken passage
down, and the Mariposa, returning, both belonged
to the Oceanic Steamship Line of San Francisco;
they were clean and comfortable, the cabins large
and airy, the service good, and the table excellent.




266


AN INTERLUDE.


[Ch. XXII.


Both called at Apia in Samoa, and this was one
of the most interesting parts of the journey, partly
because of the loveliness of the shore, but most of
all because I had the great good fortune to see
Robert Louis Stevenson: this, however, was on the
return voyage. Samoa from the sea is much more
verdant than the Sandwich Islands. There is the
same volcanic formation, and in profile the mountains are peaked and pinnacled, rounding here and
there into domes and minarets, covered with banana,
mango, bread-fruit, and the ti trees to their summits.
When we woke in the early morning, the breeze
blowing through the open port was like the moist,
heavy, scented air of a greenhouse. I rose, dressed
hurriedly, swallowed a cup of tea, and then went on
deck to go ashore with Professor Koebele, who had
also taken passage in the Alameda en route to Australia. He was familiar with Samoa as with all the
other South Sea islands.
The deck was already taken possession of by the
favoured few - natives permitted to come on board
and offer their wares to the passengers, - wares that
consisted of tapa, beautiful mats, shells, baskets, and
the airy native dancing-dress that consists of a
scanty fringe of green and scarlet wood fibre of
some sort, and fragile little rings of horn beautifully
inlaid with silver, which broke with the slightest
blow. We were anchored about a mile out, and all
around the ship the sea was covered with boats



l894.1


SAMOA.


267


the narrow, apparently clumsy craft of the Polynesians, which are kept afloat only by the huge outrigger with its heavy, curved timbers. The natives
were magnificent creatures. We had grown somewhat familiar with them during the World's Fair
in Chicago, where a company of them —those we
had seen en route in Honolulu - formed an interesting part of the great ethnological exhibition in the
Midway Plaisance. They were big, burly fellows,
laughing and chattering like magpies; they had not
yet acquired the bad habit of wearing European
clothes, although I was told that the remarkble draperies that were a substitute —prints of gorgeous
colour and alarming designs - were a Manchester
product. It seems that the English cotton-spinning
town has a monopoly in the manufacture of these
prints, and drives a thriving trade, not only with
the natives of Samoa, but of Tahiti, the Fijis, and
other groups. Having long catered to the barbarous
taste of 'Arriet, the English manufacturers find in
these simple savages only wider fields where they
can carry their abnormal ideas in design and colour
to the last baleful extreme.
The outrigger boats were loaded with articles like
those that had been brought on deck —tapa, mats,
prints, mangoes, alligator pears, the most delicious
pineapples in the world, and big round oranges,
sweet as honey, with a thin greenish rind.  We
selected our boat out of the dozens that offered




268


AN INTERLUDE.


[Ch. XXII.


themselves, and were rowed to the little rickety
landing-stage across the harbour.  The rusting
skeleton of the German man-of-war Adler, which lay
high and dry on a sheet of coral, was a grim reminder
of the great tidal wave of March I5th, I889, when
the American vessels the Vandalia and the Trenton
were wrecked, and the English ship Calliope escaped
by steaming out to sea in the teeth of the hurricane.
Wreckage companies had collected all that could be
saved of the American ships. There were on shore,
however, many melancholy reminders in the way of
broken masts and weather-beaten timbers.  One
wonders how the town could have escaped a general
inundation, as the beach at this point is not much
more than ten feet above the water at high tide.
But while the great ships were wrenched from their
moorings, and beaten and battered to pieces like eggshells, in Apia but three or four signs over shop
doors were blown down; there was no damage to
property and no loss of life. The scene of the
tragedy was the treacherous harbour, which had lifted
its huge billows like a beast of prey roused from
slumber; and those on land could only witness the
frightful wreck, men torn by twos and threes from
the rigging where they clung, some of them for hours,
as the waters, rising higher and higher, swept them
away. A survivor has related how the men in the
lower rigging, biding their time, talked calmly and
collectedly to those hanging to the ropes above them,




I894.]


THE HURRICANE OF I889.


269


leaving messages for families and friends, until
they were washed into the sea, those to whom they
had committed these last messages dying in their
turn and in the same way. In Honolulu I heard a
thrilling experience- a reminiscence of this terrible
wreck. One of the men had been watching, with a
sort of fascinated dread, how the water rushed into
the hold of the ship, and then, as the vessel lurched,
shot up into a great spouting geyser some thirty feet
into the air. It occurred to him what an awful fate
it would be to be sucked down into the darkness of
the hold, and there battered to pieces: in the flash
of an eye he was caught and wrenched from the mast
where he thought himself secure, and, blinded,
strangled, agonising, was swept into the dreaded
gulf! Fortunately the wave in its recession carried
him out again; he snatched at the ropes, caught
them, and was saved.
To return to the Samoans. Both men and women
wear the hair cut short; and either as a final touch
of extreme elegance, or for hygienic reasons, they
cover the head with a plaster of lime, which, when
removed, has not only accomplished a good deal in
the way of extermination, but has reduced the hair
to a peculiar shade of reddish brown. Near the
landing-stage, when we came ashore, were two
youths who spoke excellent English -pupils, as they
told us, in the Mission School, and, without being
in the least obtrusive, they attached themselves to




270


AN INTERLUDE.


[Ch. XXII.


us forthwith, and remained with us the entire day.
Their brown skin was like velvet in its softness and
smoothness - a race characteristic intensified by
frequent bathing and liberal use of palm oil. Like
the Hawaiians, the Samoans have long straight hair
- or would have, if they let it grow - and they resemble them.in many ways. The Hawaiian language is perfectly intelligible to both the Samoan
and the Maori, an ethnological problem that has
never been entirely solved, as the islands are some
hundreds of leagues apart. The difference in many
of their terms is scarcely noticeable: for example,
the Hawaiian greets one with the musical "Aloha,"
and the Samoan with the equally musical " Telofa."
Both have the same knowledge of mat-weaving and
tapa-making; their houses are unlike, the Hawaiian
grass hut being much more artistic and beautiful
than the Samoan hut, which is simply a sort of
ellipse, the roof thatched with palm boughs supported upon timbers placed at regular intervals, the
undressed trunks of small trees. The interior of the
Samoan houses which I visited were much cleaner
than the Hawaiian houses; the floor was thickly
covered with pebbles, and over these were spread
mats, which were frequently aired and sunned. In
each was a sort of recess, wherein was piled the food
supply-bananas, oranges, pineapples, bread-fruit,
yams, and mangoes. There were curtains of matting
that could be lowered to exclude the rain.




I894.1


A REBELLION.


27I


We walked through the village, following a road
leading out to the residence of King Malietoa,
an unpretentious bungalow, where he supported his
royal state upon a stipend of $75 a month, which
was allowed him by the triple protectorate. There
was at that time one of the chronic outbursts of
rebellion. The followers of the banished King, his
rival, who had been deported to one of the other
islands, had risen to strike a final blow for what they
considered their rights. They had been furnished
with rifles and ammunition by conscienceless white
traders.  We met a number of prisoners being
brought in, prisoners and guards walking single file,
bare-footed, bare-headed, with their cropped hair
smeared with lime, only the scantiest bits of Manchester print about their loins, and their legs tattooed in a pattern of fine stripes to the knee: it gave
them the appearance of being oddly but neatly
clothed. The guards carried Winchester rifles over
their shoulders, and each and every prisoner - a
black cotton umbrella! It was like a scene out of a
comic opera. They smiled and showed their white
teeth, and greeted us with a wave of the hand and a
musical " Telofa" as they swept past, tall, brawny,
broad-chested fellows, walking erect and with the
elastic tread of tigers. We also passed a comely
little lady whose garb was a mongrel SamoanAmerican combination.   "One of the    King's
women," was the information vouchsafed by the two




272


AN INTERLUDE.


[Ch. XXII.


boys, both of whom trotted at our heels like a pair
of brown spaniels.
Malietoa is the most approachable of sovereigns,
and there is little ceremony in securing an audience
with his royal highness. He was not at home, and
I am ashamed to confess that we walked in, nevertheless, and strolled about the house. One of the
servants informed me that he had gone to take his
morning bath. His breakfast was spread upon a
verandah in the rear, and must have been quite cold
by the time he returned. There was fish that had
been cooked some time, with bread and fruit. The
tablecloth was wrinkled and awry, and the breakfast
service was thick, heavy, cheap stone-ware. In the
main room the floor was covered with mats, and on
the walls were coloured lithographs of the late
Emperor William "der Grosse" and of the Prince
and Princess of Wales, each surrounded by a border
of Samoan fans. On the table in the centre of the
room were a large kerosene lamp and a big family
Bible, printed in Hawaiian and bound in scarlet
morocco -a gift of King Kalakaua, who at one time
had a consular representative (and a very bad one)
in Apia. There was also a copy of "The Book of
Mormon," presented by Gibson, Kalakaua's Mormon
Premier —a curious jumble of religions certainly,
underneath which the King no doubt retained a solid
stratum of his aboriginal heathenism. In the royal
bed-chamber, across the threshold of which we did




1894.]


KING MALIETOA.


273


not venture - our sole and saving qualm of propriety
-we saw the King's bed covered with the most
wonderful counterpane - great scarlet lions tramping
along and thrusting out one paw, on a background of
white. It was a canopied affair, and on one of the
four posts hung his Majesty's embroidered smokingcap, which was exactly like that which admiring
female parishioners are supposed to embroider for
the curate's birthday present. Had we been in England there would have been a register, and we could
have left our autographs, thereby betraying ourselves
as trespassers of the most shameless and boldest type.
But you do not leave your autograph in Samoa- it
is not yet sufficiently civilised -and so we escaped
the righteous punishment for our misdeeds.
As we had approached the confines of the King's
domain the force of heredity asserted itself in our
two attendants. They said in unison, in an awed
undertone, " The King's!" and would approach no
farther. But we were deceived if we supposed ourselves rid of them. They simply fell back, and
stretched themselves in the shade of a mango tree,
kicking up their heels with the most amiable patience.
When we reappeared they sprang up and joined us
with beaming smiles and renewed ardour.
As we returned to the village we dropped into the
native Roman Catholic church to hear the Mass. It
was a queer sight - the worshippers were squatting
about on the mat-covered floor, going through the
i8




AN INTERLUDE.


[Ch. XXII.


service with all the proverbial enthusiasm of proselytes. The high altar was not completed, so the
priest was officiating at an improvised altar at
the entrance, stopping occasionally to rush down the
steps and whack an obstreperous dog over the back
with an umbrella, and then resuming the service
where it had been interrupted. Two comely Samoan
nuns — and odd enough their brown faces looked
framed in coif and veil —were moving softly about
the chancel, which they were dressing with flowers.
As we came away a tall, burly man stopped to take
the holy water, and one of our lads mimicked him
rather rudely. I rebuked him, and asked, "Are n't
you a Catholic?" He drew the scrap of rag with
which his middle was girded a little closer about
him, and looked me in the face with as much of an
expression of scorn as the Samoan countenance was
capable, and replied loftily, "I'm  Church of
England."
We made a little detour to call upon one of the
chiefs, an old friend of Professor Koebele. The hut
stood somewhat apart, in a grassy space shaded by
mangoes and orange trees. The chief, a noble old
man with an intelligent face and of great dignity, sat
just within the entrance of the hut. Opposite, two
women were making kava, a slightly intoxicating
drink prepared from the roots of the awa, in common use throughout Polynesia. The old process of
preparation was mastication, but fortunately for me




i894.]


KAVA.


275


it was no longer in use. The women were pounding
the fibres in a calabash, water being added at intervals. The hut was filled with people - many men
who had been fighting, and whose wounded arms had
been bandaged by the English surgeon. When we
entered and I was introduced, the chief ordered one
of the women to get me a seat, and she brought
forward a little chest, upon which I sat during the
call. She was also requested to procure me some
refreshment, which was easily done. There was no
ceremony about it, and none of the fuss of boiling a
tea-kettle or cutting and spreading bread and butter
and arranging a tray; the smiling handmaiden ran
outside the hut, knocked some oranges from a convenient tree, returned, knelt, and sliced the fruit,
which she presented daintily on the end of the knife.
Professor Koebele and Dr. Casey, the ship's surgeon,
who had joined us, presented both men and women
with cigarettes, of which they are extravagantly
fond, and which they carry over one ear until they
are ready to smoke.  When the kava was done,
those who could clapped their hands three times;
the chief waved the bowl toward me, and it was presented by one of the women in the most respectful
way. The beverage is not agreeable to the untrained
palate, having a smooth, soapy taste, and I quaffed
it neither long nor deep.
In the lanai of the hotel I met Mr. Lloyd Osbourne
and his sister Mrs. Strong - a very handsome, dark



276


AN INTERLUDE.


[Ch. XXII.


eyed young woman, beautifully dressed in a white
duck gown. They were both loaded with papers
and letters, an enormous quantity, which the
steamer had just brought. They were both lamenting the non-arrival of a certain hurdy-gurdy that had
been ordered from Sydney, and which they urgently
required for festival occasions.
Mr. Osbourne invited me out to Vailima; but as
our stay was so short I was forced to decline, to my
regret at that time, and my greater regret since.
Mr. Stevenson was hard at work upon "Weir of
Hermiston," and could not spare the time to come
down to the ship, as he usually did. I did not see
him, consequently, until I returned in May. Mr.
Osbourne spoke with much indignation of the fighting going on among the Samoans. "They are like
children," he said, "and are just about as fit to be
trusted with firearms."  And he described their
strange manner of warfare - the belligerents declaring a truce, sitting down and eating together in perfect friendliness, then, after a rest and a smoke,
exclaiming, "Now it's time to fight," and banging
away again. It was not child's play, this part of it
— for they fought to the death, and, until it was
prohibited by heavy penalties, cut off the heads of
their enemies as trophies for the King. The morgue
at the time was filled with bodies, which I was
invited to inspect, but which I need hardly say I
had no desire to see. We sailed at one o'clock,




i894. ]


NEW  ZEALAND.


277


Samoa vanishing in a haze of silver rain, through
which the beautiful Samoan doves darted and soared,
their glistening plumage shining in the sunlight
that presently broke through the shower.
New Zealand, with its incomparable climate, its
wild and characteristic scenery, the high intelligence
of its people, its well-built cities, with their schools,
universities, libraries, and museums, and, above all,
the justice which has given to women a share in the
dignity of the State, seemed to me the flower of the
Australasian colonies. I liked the country much
better in every way than Australia, so far as I was
able to judge during my brief visit. I made the
journey overland through Rotarua to Napier, thence
to Wellington, Christchurch, and Dunedin, meeting
delightful friends everywhere, and crossed to Melbourne, and proceeded from Melbourne to Sydney by
rail. There I caught the Mariposa, after a fortnight's rest and over six weeks of rapid and fatiguing travel. It seemed good to see the ship
again. She was like home, the faces of the officers
were like the benevolent countenances of near kindred, and whatever else might have been lacking the
flag of my country was an evidence that her decks
were virtually American soil.
We were uncertain as to whether we should land
at Apia on the return; it depended on the weather,
the captain said. Fortunately this was propitious,
and the landing was made.




AN INTERLUDE.


[Ch. XXII.


Among the passengers was Miss Ide, the daughter
of the American Chief Justice of Samoa, who invited
me to lunch when we went on shore. But she had
been long absent from home, and I felt some scruples
in intruding at this first family reunion upon her
return.
Just as I was about to leave the ship a boat came
out rowed by an unusually comely crew of Samoans.
In the bow stood a tall, slender figure clad in spotless white from head to foot. It was Robert Louis
Stevenson. He stood directing his men with the
utmost gentleness, speaking so softly that he could
not be heard at the ship's side when they approached
the gangway. His face was swarthy and seemed
greatly emaciated, and his large dark eyes were like
two burning stars. The hands were thin, nervous,
and expressive. Few faces have half the expression
of those long, slender, delicate fingers. Stevenson
was a great favourite with the ship's officers on both
the Alameda and the Mariposa, and as usual he and
his family lunched on board. There were no ice
machines in Apia, and ices were always specially
prepared on these occasions - a rare treat. With
his great genius there was nothing of arrogance in
his manner to the simple, warm-hearted officers; he
was as unaffected and straightforward as they, and
met their cordial advances more than half-way. His
men rowed him to the gangway, and he sprang lightly
from the boat and ran up the steps like a cat. He




I894.]


R. L. STEVENSON.


279


was sincerely glad to see his friends, and they were
as genuinely delighted to see him, and crowded
round him while very hearty greetings were exchanged.
I was not destined to see Vailima after all. Mr.
Lloyd Osbourne, who had invited me before, had
gone with Mrs. Stevenson to New Zealand, where
she was taking the baths at Rotarua for rheumatism,
from which she was suffering greatly. My friend, a
certain Irish purser, whom Stevenson mentions in
the Vailima Letters, insisted that I should stay and
be introduced to him; but just then there was a good
reason why the whole race of newspaper correspondents should be held in disfavour by him.
Some time before a writer for a Western paper had
gone down to Samoa, and had visited Vailima, which
was a sort of house of free entertainment for every
tourist who happened to be passing that way. The
man had been kindly received and hospitably entertained.  He departed, and, with the most cruel
treachery, repaid the kindness of his host by writing
a scurrilous attack upon him, in which his family
were included. However innocent they might be,
I could not feel that other correspondents, coming
after this specimen, could or would be very welcome,
and I did not feel disposed to test Stevenson's forbearance; but I shall always regret that I did not at
least remain on board to luncheon with him, as I was
urged to do.




280


AN INTERLUDE.


[Ch. XXII.


I had on this second visit no kind and clever Professor Koebele as guide, philosopher, and friend. I
went ashore with a fretful, peevish Englishman
instead, who enjoyed nothing, saw nothing, and
found fault with everything. He growled at the heat,
which was intense; he grumbled at the flies, which
were certainly numerous and vicious; the natives
worried him; and there were certainly some bad
smells, which neither he nor any one else could have
enjoyed. But all these were the sort of ills that the
experienced traveller learns to accept as a matter of
course, a part of the price one must pay for seeing
the kingdoms of this world and the glory of them;
and the "tuppenny ha'penny" dominion of Samoa,
with its king on an allowance of $75 a month, was
not an exception to the rule. The sun did pour
down with intense fierceness -that I will admit;
but all the ills combined were nothing to the complaints of my petulant escort. Finally I said, "It
is so very warm that I think I shall go back to the
ship. I have visited Apia before, and have seen it
all. But don't let me interrupt your visit; I will get
a boat, and the men will take me out to the ship."
I was afraid he would come trailing along, even
after this palpable dismissal. He did hesitate a moment and appeared undecided, but finally concluded
to remain, to my great satisfaction. I went back to
the landing-stage, called a boat, and stepped into it,
sitting high in the stern. My face was a blazing




l894.]


SYDNEY.


281


scarlet, and I must have presented rather a queer
appearance - a solitary female sitting on my elevated
perch, with the four stalwart natives at the oars.
I was undeniably in a bad temper, and they looked
at me dubiously, as one inspects an animal which it
is better not to disturb. Finally their overweening
curiosity got the better of their doubts; they probably had never had just such a passenger, a grim,
laconic, lone woman, like some sort of figure-head
at the wrong end of the boat.
" You - you got no old man?" the boldest of them
finally ventured.
"No," I replied curtly.
"You never have no old man?" he persisted.
"No," I answered again, with still sterner
emphasis.
They all smiled, then broke into a good-natured
laugh, no doubt mentally congratulating the nonexistent "old man" on escaping a fate altogether
undesirable. Mr. Stevenson had gone when I returned to the ship, and we sailed within an hour.
A few months afterwards I heard of his sudden
death.
While the ship was in Sydney she had been docked
and her keel cleaned, and she made one of the quickest voyages from Australia to Honolulu that had
ever been recorded. We entered the harbour on the
morning of May 30th. It reminded me of my first
visit; for, by a coincidence, it was another American




282


AN INTERLUDE.


[Ch. XXII.


holiday - Memorial Day.  The Philadelphia had
arrived in my absence, one of the largest cruisers in
the American Navy, and she was beautifully decorated; and flags were floating from roofs and flagstaffs all over the city. The sky was cloudless, the
water reflecting all the colours of the rainbow, and
vegetation was in the fulness of its perfection. We
docked at ten o'clock. My friend, Mrs. W,
was waiting for me with her carriage, and I was
driven at once to the Government building. After
a journey of over five thousand miles, contending
with the variable forces of winds and waves, I had
reached Honolulu at ten o'clock on the very day
when the Constitutional Convention had met, and
had just an hour to spare!
The exercises of this opening session of the Convention, which did not adjourn until July, were simple, dignified, and unostentatious, after the manner
in which all the affairs of the Provisional Government
had been conducted. It was held in one of the
larger rooms of the Government building.  The
President and the Executive Council sat upon the
platform, and there were present the diplomatic
representatives (with the exception of the American
Minister), the officers of the men-of-war then stationed at Honolulu, with the prominent citizens of
the Islands, accompanied by their wives and daughters. All the windows were open, the bare room was
brilliant with sunshine, and the soft wind rustled in




I894-]


MEMORIAL DAY.


283


the historic palms upon the lawn. There was a very
brief address by President Dole, which was translated by an interpreter into Hawaiian for the benefit
of native delegates to the Convention whose knowledge of English was not quite perfect. The exercises occupied but an hour.
I lunched with my friends the W —s, and we
then attended the Memorial Day service at the
Honolulu cemetery.  It seemed strange, indeed,
to witness this solemn ceremony here in this tropical
land, in the midst of surroundings far removed and
widely different from the scene of that great conflict
in which the dead had participated.  There is in
Hawaii a Grand Army Post, and upon the 30th of
May the graves of its deceased members were decorated with flowers and wreaths and American flags,
as had been done throughout the United States,
North and South, from the Atlantic to the Pacific,
on that day. There was a procession, with President Dole, the Executive and Advisory Councils, at
its head, with the officers of the American and English ships, United States marines, and Hawaiian
soldiery, infantry and artillery, with the Government
and marine bands, followed by citizens in their carriages. I had seen the observance of Memorial Day
in many parts of the United States; in Chicago
where in the miles of marching men were carried the
flags of every European nation except Russia - the
heterogeneous population putting aside their race




284


AN INTERLUDE.


[Ch. XXII.


hatred and prejudice, uniting to honour the dead who
had preserved the land of their adoption, and made
possible for them its liberty and its opportunities -
and in many a town and village besides; but I had
seen nothing that had ever impressed and thrilled
me like this, where Europeans, Hawaiians, Americans, Portuguese, Chinese, and Japanese were assembled, each a part of the multitude, sharing in all that
was done and listening intently to all that was said.
The bond between the United States and Hawaii
seemed trebly strengthened.  There they slept,
those in whose memory the day was observed, and
who upon other soil had suffered hardships and perils
incredible, and who had shed their blood in the
sacred cause of human liberty. Across the place of
their repose fell the shadows of the solemn mountains, "rock-ribbed and ancient as the sun;" hither
came the voice of the sea, sounding eternally upon
the shore; above them bent the arch of the tropical
sky, a flame of blue and gold; and gathered to do
them reverence were those, like themselves, who
had stood in defence of the right, and were ready to
sacrifice their lives, if need be, to accomplish the
overthrow of oppression.
I had never seen such flowers; for Europeans,
Americans, and Hawaiians alike had remembered
their dead. Some of the graves were a solid mass
of sombre purple and lavender heliotrope; others
were heaped with tuberoses and plumaria; upon




1894.]  THE REPUBLIC PROCLAIMED.


285


others, outlined with leis, were simply branches of
palm; and still others were strewn with lilies. There
were palm branches again with garlands of lilies,
and some were covered with gardenia and stephanotis
and oleander.
There was an address and singing, after which the
people dispersed. In the evening I dined with the
President and Mrs. Dole, meeting Admiral Walker,
who invited me to visit his flag-ship the following
morning.
The Convention continued in session until July,
its deliberations being marked by impartial and
painstaking consideration of every question destined
to affect the well-being of the new Government and
of the people, irrespective of class or colour. On
July 4th the Republic was formally proclaimed in
Honolulu with great rejoicing. The momentous day
was ushered in with a salute at sunrise, and at a very
early hour the streets were thronged with people,
hundreds wearing knots of red, white, and blue
ribbon.  Both public buildings and private residences were profusely decorated with garlands of
flowers, flags, and branches of palm.  At nine
o'clock President Dole and his Cabinet, with General
Soper in command of the Government troops, appeared upon the steps of the Executive building,
and looked down upon the thousands who had assembled to participate in the exercises. The President
said:




286            AN INTERLUDE.        [Ch. XXII.
"The movement for popular government which has
to-day reached such an important stage in this
country began in 1839, when Kauikeaouli, swayed
by the light of the new civilisation which was fast
dawning upon his kingdom, surrendered his unlimited sovereign power and proclaimed to every man
the rights of 'life, limb, liberty, and freedom from
oppression, the earnings of his hands, and the productions of his mind.' The progress of this cause,
from that day to this, has been irresistible. There
have been times, indeed, when it seemed to slacken
its pace, and even to turn back on its course, but
obstacles only served to give it a chance to gather
its strength for swifter advance. The Land Commission and the great Makele, by which the lands of
the kingdom were divided between the people, the
chiefs, the Government, and the King; the Constitutions of I853, 1864, I887; and the proclamation
of January I4th, I893, are the milestones along the
way. To-day, as we pass through the gate Beautiful
into a new realm full of promise, we set up another
milestone greater and grander than all that stand
behind us.  The end is not yet.  The relaxing
influences of peace are more demoralising to patriotism than the stern and bracing dangers of war.
'Eternal vigilance is the price of liberty.' There
are still great things to be done. There are achievements in free government, as yet unattained, to be
striven for- for responses to the fast-growing claim




P1RiE3i DENT DOL








1894.]  THE PRESIDENT'S ADDRESS.


287


that the poor man, the weak man, the ignorant man,
shall be recognised, in fact as well as in name, in
the body politic. There are new milestones to be
set up on heights which are yet to be gained. Let
us see to it that our future is worthy of our past and
of all the promise of this auspicious day, and that it
shall grow therefrom as the tree from the sapling;
that freedom shall never come to mean licence in
the vocabulary of the Republic; and that the spirit
of traffic shall never invade the council chamber or
the halls of legislation. And now, in behalf of the
men who have carried this cause along, and who
have stood ready to defend it with their lives; in
behalf of the women who have given it their prayers
and their husbands and sons, for the benefit and
protection of all the people of this country, of whatsoever race or name; and in gratitude to God whose
hand has led us, -I, Sandford B. Dole, President
of the Provisional Government of the Hawaiian
Islands, by virtue of the charge to me given by the
Executive and Advisory Councils of the Provisional
Government and by Act dated July 3rd, I894, proclaim the Republic of Hawaii as sovereign authority
over and throughout the Hawaiian Islands from this
time forth.  And I do declare the Constitution
framed and adopted by the Constitutional Convention of I894 to be the Constitution and the Supreme
Law of the Republic of Hawaii, and by the virtue
of this Constitution I now assume the office and




288


AN INTERLUDE.


[Ch. XXII.


authority of President thereof.  God save the
Republic!"
As the last sentence was uttered the guns of the
battery boomed a salute to the Hawaiian flag, which
was unfurled upon the tower of the building. An
old native Hawaiian bared his head to the salute,
exclaiming, "There is more patriotism in a pound
of that powder than in all the royalism of Hawaii."
Admiral Walker and his staff, with the diplomatic
representatives, were present at the proclamation
ceremonies, and Chief Justice Judd, whose father
had exerted so great an influence in the civilisation
of the natives, and Associate Justice Bickerton were
the first to take the oath of allegiance. This was
administered in the presence of five thousand people.
The remainder of the day was devoted to athletic
sports and yacht races and to official and private
receptions, and in the evening there were brilliant
illuminations.
The Constitution thus formally adopted was modelled after that of the United States, and framed
specially to simplify annexation, which it anticipated. It was extremely liberal. President Dole,
as I have said elsewhere, had been the devoted friend
of the natives, and rights and privileges were assured
them under the new Government which they had
never enjoyed under the domination of their own
race.
In this final triumph of liberty an effort was




i894.]


THE QUEEN-AGITATOR.


289


made to secure equal rights and justice to the female
as well as to the male citizens of the new Republic,
and in favour of this the Hon. L. A. Thurston
laboured strenuously, supported by the most intelligent men and women in the Islands.
There were those, however, who were timid, having yet to learn that justice is eternally an abstract
principle into which questions of expediency cannot
enter, and with whose administration there can be
no temporising, as older governments are slowly
realising.
The new Government thus auspiciously established
continued to administer public affairs with the moderation and justice which the Provisional Government had manifested from the beginning. Its pacific
rule was but once disturbed, and this was in the
native uprising, instigated by the Queen and the
adventurers that still gathered about her, in January,
I895. It was suppressed within little more than a
fortnight, the conspirators being tried and sentenced
to fine and imprisonment, most of them, however,
being afterwards pardoned. The country has now
enjoyed more than three years of uninterrupted
peace, during which prosperity has steadily increased. In the financial report for I897 the total
current revenue for I896 was $1,997,818. I8, and the
total expenditure for the same year $1,904, I90.92.
"This shows," says Mr. Thurston, "that after
paying all running expenses, interest on all loans,
19




290


AN INTERLUDE.


[Ch. XXII.


and redeeming $i6,0oo worth of bonds falling due,
the Treasury closed the year with a cash surplus over
$71,000 greater than at the beginning," - proof that
the country is, as he asserts it to be, " self-supporting,
solvent, and prosperous." The sums mentioned may
seem insignificant to governments whose receipts
and expenditures are reckoned by millions, but it
must be borne in mind that the entire population of
the Islands is but 109,020, many of the natives being
merely nominal tax-payers.
Mr. Thurston has thus summarised the form of the
new Republic, which I quote verbatim:
"The Government of Hawaii was a monarchy
until January, I893, when Liliuokalani attempted
to abrogate the Constitution and promulgate one
increasing her power and disfranchising the whites.
"The people thereupon overthrew the monarchy,
and established a Provisional Government, January
I7th, I893.
"Later a Constitutional Convention unanimously
adopted a Constitution declaring the Republic of
Hawaii on July 4th, I894.
" The Executive consists of a President and four
Cabinet officers. The President is Sandford Ballard
Dole, fifty years of age, Hawaiian born, of American
parentage, a graduate of Williams College, a lawyer
by profession. He was a judge of the Supreme
Court under the monarchy, which position he resigned to accept the leadership of the Revolution,




1894.]


THE CONSTITUTION.


29I


which overturned the monarchy. He is respected
and honoured by all classes and factions in the
community.
" The Electorate consists of all male adult citizens
who take an oath of allegiance to the Republic.
" Asiatics are not eligible to citizenship or to vote.
" The President has the power of veto, which may
be overridden by a two-thirds vote of each House.
" Character of Laws. - The foundation of the legal
system of the country is the Common Law of
England.
"The penal law and practice are codified, and
there are no penal offences except those enumerated
in the code.
"The civil law, practice, and procedure are partially codified, and are in general as much like those
of the several American States as the law of one
State is like that of another.
"The text-books and law reports of England and
the United States are cited as authority in the courts
in the same manner that they are in this country.
"The members of the Supreme and Circuit Court
bars are nearly all Americans, or were educated in
American law schools. The attorneys in the District Courts are mostly native Hawaiians, educated
in Honolulu.




292


AN INTERLUDE.


[Ch. XXII.


"THE COURTS.
"The main judicial system consists of District and
Circuit Courts and a Supreme Court.
" District Courts. - There are about thirty District
Courts. They have jurisdiction over civil matters
involving not more than $300, and over misdemeanours. They also commit, for trial by jury,
persons accused of felony, exercising the functions
of an American grand jury. The grand-jury system
has not been adopted.
"An appeal lies from the District to the Circuit
or Supreme Court.
"Circuit Courts. -There are four Circuit Courts,
with appellate jurisdiction over appeals from the
District Courts, and original jurisdiction over all
civil suits involving more than $300, and over
persons committed for trial for felonies; in all
equity, admiralty, and probate cases, and over
special proceedings, such as habeas corpus, etc.
Each Circuit Court is presided over by one judge.
All jury trials are held in the Circuit Courts.
" Yuries. -The same class of cases are tried by
jury as in the United States. Juries consist of
twelve men, but nine can render a verdict in both
civil and criminal cases. Jury can be waived in both
civil and criminal cases, except capital cases.
" The Supreme Court consists of three judges, with
exclusive jurisdiction to decide certain special pro



I894.]


THE COURTS.


293


ceedings, and the validity of elections to the Legislature; concurrent jurisdiction with the Circuit
judges concerning habeas corpus and certain other
special proceedings; and appellate jurisdiction over
exceptions and appeals from District or Circuit
Courts. Cases are tried promptly, and the courts
are ably and honestly conducted.
"The judges are appointed by the PresidentDistrict judges for two years, Circuit judges for four
years, and Supreme Court judges for life.
"The required qualifications of a voter for Representatives are ability to read and write Hawaiian or
English, and the payment of all taxes due; and for
Senators, in addition thereto, an income of $600 per
annum, or the ownership of real estate worth $I, 500,
or personal property worth $3,000ooo.
" The Legislature consists of a Senate elected for
six years, and a House of Representatives elected
for two years, each consisting of fifteen members.
" The Legislative Procedure is practically the same
as in the United States. Each measure, in order to
become law, has to pass three readings before each
House, and be signed by the President.
"The Committee system is the same as in American legislative bodies."
Apart from the uprising of January, I895, the
new Government, whose principles were thus defined, continued to strengthen its position and win
the faith and goodwill of the people. The Hon.




294            AN INTERLUDE.         [Ch. XXII.
Albert S. Willis, the American Minister, died suddenly in December of this year, and was succeeded
by Mr. Mills, who was made Charg6 d'Affaires.
Upon Mr. McKinley's election Mr. Harold W.
Sewell, son of the Free Silver candidate for the
Vice-Presidency with Mr. Bryan, was appointed
Minister. Mr. Sewell, however, was not of Mr.
Bryan's political belief, having been a strong supporter of Mr. McKinley.




CHAPTER XXIII.


ANCIENT CUSTOMS.
THE ancient Hawaiians were never cannibals.
It was customary among many of the Polynesians to eat portions of the bodies of enemies, the
heart and the brains, as certain of the American
Indians have been known to do, in the belief that
they would thereby acquire the courage of an adversary which had commanded their admiration. Unlike
the Samoans and Maoris, their handsome faces and
figures were not disfigured by tattooing.  As is
inevitable among people where the authority of the
chief or king was absolute, there was great oppression, great cruelty, and indifference to life. If a
man of the common people stood upon an eminence
where his shadow fell across the chief's path, if he
climbed a tree or placed himself in any position
more elevated than the chief, he was put to death.
At the launching of a new canoe a man was sacrificed; and when a new hut was built, under each of
the four corners was placed a portion of a human
body.
295




296


ANCIENT CUSTOMS.


[Ch. XXIII.


I saw in the fine museum connected with the
Kamehameha School for Boys a somewhat peculiar
wooden tray. When I asked what it was, I was
informed by the curator, Mr. W. T. Brigham, that
before the advent of the missionaries shark-killing
was a favourite sport with the chiefs. A man was
killed, the body cut into pieces, placed in a wooden
tray like that which the museum had preserved, and
then left to decompose. When this was accomplished, it was taken out beyond the reef, set afloat
upon the water, the odour and the ooze attracting
the savage fish. The Hawaiians then darted in
amongst them armed with short knives, and a
furious battle followed, in which it usually happened that the natives were victorious.
Their feats with their swimming-boards were
remarkable. These were made of polished koa, and
were about eight feet in length and eighteen inches
in width. With these they swam out beyond the
reef, and then waited the approach of a breaker,
riding in to the shore on the crest of the wave with
incredible swiftness. It was a rare thing that the
swimmers were ever injured, they were so skilful,
being as much at home in the water as upon the
land. Among games mentioned by Professor Alexander and by Jarves in their histories was one somewhat like checkers, played with black and white
pebbles upon a board divided into squares. Chiefs
alone were permitted to shoot mice with bows and




I894. ]


MUSIC AND DANCING.


297


arrows - a sport having a religious significance.
Children walked on stilts and spun tops made of
gourds. The men excelled in athletic sports, especially boxing, wrestling, and running; and in their
boxing bouts the combatants were frequently killed.
In bowling, polished stones and wooden sticks were
used, and the players displayed much skill both in
sending the stone between the upright sticks - not
knocking them down - and in the great distance to
which it could be thrown. In the museum there are
also several sledges, long and narrow, with the runners highly polished and curved, and these were
used in coasting down steep hillsides - another
favourite amusement.
A few primitive musical instruments existed,
which, with drums made of a portion of the hollow
trunk of the cocoa palm and covered with shark skin,
or of gourds and cocoanut shells, were used to
accompany their chants, which were monotonous and
prolonged. Their most important dance was the
hula-hula, which was revived during the latter years
of the monarchy, if it could be said ever to have
fallen into disuse. It consisted chiefly of indecent
posturing, and was formerly accompanied by lascivious songs. The dancers were women almost naked,
wearing wreaths of flowers, with barbarous bracelets
and anklets of dogs' teeth and pigs' teeth.
The ancient Hawaiians might almost have been
called a race of poets. They excelled in improvisa



298


ANCIENT CUSTOMS.


[Ch. XXIII.


tion, and their poems in form were like the chants of
most uncivilised people, consisting of sentences and
phrases repeated, without rhyme, but with a certain
musical accent that was a substitute for rhythm.
These compositions are divided by Professor Alexander into religious chants, prayers, and prophecies;
ihoas, name-songs, composed at the birth of a chief
in his honour, recounting the exploits of his ancestors, etc.; kanikaus, dirges or lamentations for the
dead; ipos, or love-songs. He quotes this dirge,
which has been preserved, and was composed in
honour of the son of the English missionary, Mr.
Ellis:
" Alas! alas! dead is my chief,
Dead is my lord and my friend,
My friend in the season of famine,
My friend in the time of drought,
My friend in my poverty,
My friend in the rain and the wind,
My friend in the heat and the sun,
My friend in the cold from the mountain,
My friend in the storm,
My friend in the calm,
My friend in the eight seas.
Alas! alas! gone is my friend,
And no more will return."
Another has also been preserved, which was composed by Queen Kekupuohe, one of the widows of
Kalaniopu, who reigned over the Hawaiians at the
time of Captain Cook's visit in 1775. Kekupuohe
was converted to Christianity, and her poem was an




1894.]       POETRY AND RELIGION.                299
invocation to the Deity. The following extracts
have been quoted by Mr. M. A. Chamberlain in a
paper on early native converts:
"Once only hath that appeared which is glorious;
It is wonderful, it is altogether holy;
It is a blooming glory, its nature is unwithering.
Rare is its stock most singular, unrivalled;
One only True Vine! It is the Lord, etc.
God breathed into the empty space,
And widely spread His power forth,
The Spirit, flying, hovered o'er;
A spirit, 't is a shadow of what is good;
A shadow of heaven is the Holy Spirit.
His power grasped the movable; it was fast.
The earth became embodied;
The islands also rose; they rose to view;
The land was bare of verdure,
And desolate the earth; earth also was man;
'T was God that made him,
By Him also were all things made, etc."
The ancient Hawaiian religion was essentially
gloomy, and was attended by many cruel and oppressive rites, in which the authority of the priests was
paramount. They had an infinite number of deities,
many of whom, like the spirit that was supposed to
be embodied in the shark, the volcano, or the hurricane, were evil and malicious, to be feared and
placated. The four chief gods were Kane, Kanaloa,
Ku, and Lono, which were also worshipped through



300


ANCIENT CUSTOMS.


[Ch. XXIII.


out Polynesia, pointing to a common religion and a
common origin. Idols were worshipped, and they
were of great variety, hideous and grotesque, their
purpose apparently being to augment that dread
and fear through which the priesthood thrived and
prospered - a motive not unknown among more civilised races and in a more enlightened age. Their
idea of a future life was indefinite, and they had a
superstitious dread of ghosts, avoiding battle-fields
and burial-places after nightfall.
The tabu, which was also universal throughout
Polynesia, was exceedingly oppressive: a sort of
religious interdict or prohibition laid upon the
people and affecting their entire life, -their habits,
customs, food, worship; indeed, at some time and
under certain circumstances, almost every possible
act. Certain food was perpetually tabu to women
- pork, bananas, and the better varieties of fish.
There were certain solemn seasons when any sort of
work was tabu - when absolute silence was imperative, a condition which, if violated, necessitated
beginning the whole tedious business over again.
Marriage was usually attended by feasting; polygamy
was practised; and chiefs could divorce their wives
at will. Infanticide prevailed to a frightful extent.
Upon the arrival of the American missionaries in
I826, one woman confessed to Mrs. Judd, the wife
of the missionary, that she had murdered nine of her
children and buried them under the floor of the hut.




1894.]  SUPERSTITIONS- ARTS, ETC.


30o


It was not considered a crime, and consequently was
not punished in any way.
A superstitious belief prevailed concerning the
hair, nails, blood, and saliva which seems general
among barbarous people: all these were carefully
destroyed, lest they should fall into the hands of
their enemies, who were able thereby to cause illness, misfortune, or death. They had methods of
embalming, and the bones of chiefs were sacred, and
were hidden in caves or elsewhere with the greatest
secrecy.
The people had some instinctive knowledge of
engineering, as the construction of their great fishponds which still remain near Honolulu would
indicate. They exhibited great courage in battle,
fighting with spears and javelins, clubs of hard wood,
and slings made of cocoa fibre and human hair, from
which stones were thrown long distances with great
force and unerring aim.  They had no knowledge
of anything that could be called the art of warfare,
their battles being hand-to-hand encounters, the
combatants being incited to fresh courage and deeds
of daring by idols carried by the priests, who accompanied the soldiers in the field.
Their food consisted of poi, fish, and, after the
introduction of cattle and pigs into the Islands by
Europeans, of beef and pork. These were cooked in
underground ovens, a custom still in vogue among
those who come less frequently in contact with




302          ANCIENT CUSTOMS.       [Ch. XXIII.
white people. Kava, which was used throughout
the islands of the Pacific, was made from the awa,
and prepared by masticating the root and pouring
water over it, which was then strained. Formerly
this was offered to American and European visitors;
and although to drink it must have required a strong
will and a still stronger stomach, to refuse it was a
gross discourtesy, and therefore quite impracticable.
With much to cause them sorrow and even misery,
the people as a race were wonderfully light-hearted.
They had a keen sense of humour, and feeling, if not
profound or lasting, that was easily touched. This
made them ready converts to Christianity - this
added to the fact that they had discarded their idols
prior to the advent of the missionaries to their
shores.




CHAPTER XXIV.


PRODUCTS.
SUGAR is the leading product and the chief
source of wealth in the Hawaiian Islands, the
export increasing from 25,080,I82 lbs., valued at
$I,216,388.82, in I875, to 294,784,8I9 lbs., valued
at $7,975,590.4I, in I895-totals that have more
than doubled in twenty years. In the cane-growing
regions of the United States a yield of three tons to
the acre is considered profitable, and in many of the
richer plantations of Hawaii five tons to the acre
have been produced, and occasionally eight. Good
crops are raised by " rattooning " - allowing the cane
to produce a second crop without replanting. An
effort has been made to secure Portuguese labourers
for the plantations- I, 123 Portuguese having been
employed in I896. They are considered much more
tractable than the Japanese, who are difficult to control and are disposed to engage in strikes; the Japanese, however, are still greatly in the majority.
There is no coffee in the world superior to the
Kona coffee -the indigenous coffee of Hawaii. It
303




304


PRODUCTS.


[Ch. XXIV.


combines the strength of Java with the flavour of
what is sold in the American and European markets
as Mocha.   This industry is still comparatively
undeveloped, but scores of plantations are under
cultivation, and are being rapidly bought up, until
it is said that lands available for coffee culture will
soon be difficult to buy at any price. It requires
considerable capital, and from three to five years
of labour while investments remain unproductive.
There are many thousands of acres planted with
coffee which has not reached maturity, so that most
of the crop at present is consumed by the home
markets. The export in I896 was 114,983 Ibs.,
valued at $22,011.I8.  Pineapples are also profitable, the crop being easily grown and ready for
market within ten months after planting. The
export of bananas is also increasing, the fruit being
of especially fine quality.
There are many varieties of hard wood in the
Islands, which are beautifully grained and take a
high polish. Of these the most important are the
koa and kou, from which the natives formerly made
their calabashes and other utensils. The leaf of the
pandanus is still used in the market —fish, beef,
and other articles being neatly wrapped up in it, the
long stem serving as a handle by which to carry
the parcel. Almost all the varieties of the palm -
the cocoanut, which is indigenous, the traveller's
palm, the royal and date palms - grow luxuriantly;




I894.]


FLOWERS.


305


and in Hawaii the bamboo has been introduced.
The algaroba, which was first planted by the French
missionaries, is about the only thing that will take
root in the lava; but it manages not only to live,
but to flourish and multiply, and within fifty years
may do much to transform the waste places into
habitable regions. The tamarind, the orange, the
mango, the bread-fruit, the beautiful umbrella tree,
and the monkey pod add their rich and varied leafage
to the general verdure.
I have written much of the flowers, but no words
can convey any idea of their beauty and variety.
The bougainvillea, a crimson or salmon-coloured
creeper, will envelop an entire tree, its sprays, two
and three yards in length, depending from the
boughs like swaying garlands. The stephanotis,
another trailer that we nurse tenderly in the artificial
warmth of our greenhouse, there embowers an entire
verandah, above and below. My friend Mrs. Whad a plant trained on the verandah where they usually
sat, but its fragrance was so oppressive that it had
to be cut down; one on the walls of the stables
remained, and this climbed to the highest peak of
the gable. There are entire hedges of hibiscus and
oleander; the splendid datura, with its trumpetshaped flowers, attains the proportions of a miniature
tree; and the nasturtium, which grows wild upon the
lava around Kileauea, becomes a thing of splendour
with a little cultivation. Carnations and violets
20




3o6


PRODUCTS.


[Ch. XXIV.


have also been acclimatised, with many varieties of
beautiful lilies. The fern forests of Hawaii and
Kauai are of unimaginable loveliness, their thick
plume-like branches interlaced above the rushing
streams and cascades that water their roots. The
banks of the rivers in Hawaii are also matted with
moon-flowers, which slowly open with the twilight.
Fifty years ago the missionaries planted a hedge
of night-blooming cereus along one side of the
grounds of Oahu College. The hedge was five hundred feet in length, and President Hosmer has
added an additional thousand feet. The blooming
of one flower is an event in our cold climate, and
invitations are sent by florists to the favoured few
who are permitted to view the wonder. I have a
photograph of this old hedge taken by a flash-light
when there were three thousand perfect flowers in
bloom. Imagine their suffocating sweetness, and
the dazzling array of three thousand great snowwhite disks coming into life and exhaling their concentrated perfume as they slowly faded!
It is a climate, however, with which the floriculturist cannot rashly experiment. What may be a
valued plant elsewhere, here may become an enemy,
with none of the restraint that nature has devised to
keep it within bounds elsewhere. Some one introduced the lantana, and it has overrun thousands of
acres of the best land, forming impenetrable thickets
that can be rooted out only with plough and harrow.




Honeywell "-)F' NJf';1Ji-ll'H)\IIN(K. CERFUS,  LVFl\T  kumoill-!N   VfA NT   ATNL L








I894.]


WILD PIGS.


307


A gentleman told me that it had cost him $1,500 in
one year to clear his fields that had become overgrown with the mischievous shrub.
In Hawaii, as throughout Polynesia, there was
very little animal life in the Islands until cattle and
pigs were introduced; nothing, indeed, but rats and
mice, dogs and cats - a fact that Professor Koebele
thought was largely responsible for cannibalism in
the other islands, where, through the destruction of
fruit trees, food became scarce. The cattle and
pigs multiplied, however, and there are still herds
of wild cattle in Hawaii, especially on the lower
slopes of Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa. The natives
formerly captured these animals by digging pits, into
which they fell, when they were destroyed with
spears and knives. It occasionally happened that a
man also fell into the pit, and was gored and trampled
to death.
A Scotch resident described the manner in which
he had seen wild pigs destroyed: the animal was
driven to bay, and when it turned and charged a
string was held extended firmly in both hands,
against which it ran open-mouthed; the cord was
then wound round and round the snout in a flash, the
poor brute being finally strangled. Deer have been
successfully introduced upon Molokai, with pheasants, which are also numerous in Oahu, but which
take refuge in the lantana thickets, and so defy the
sportsman. The mongoose, imported from Jamaica




3o8


PRODUCTS.


[Ch. XXIV.


as an enemy to the rats, which were very destructive
in the cane fields, has proved to be a good deal of a
pest, preferring poultry to rats, and having a rapacious appetite for pheasants' eggs. Rats are ubiquitous and daring. They swarmed in the hotel, and
feared neither man nor beast; they had a voracious
appetite for soap, which it is supposed they applied
internally. There were certain of the species with
a civilised taste for fresh air and a commanding
prospect, and these made their home in the cocoanut
trees, which furnished both food and a nesting-place.
These tree-dwellers bored into the shell, and devoured
the fruit whenever prompted by hunger. I was told
that the more enterprising went out upon business
or to call on their friends across the street, utilising
the telephone wires as thoroughfares, where they
were comparatively safe from  their enemies.  I
never saw an example of this sort of wire-walking,
and cannot vouch for it.
There are no reptiles, and no venomous insects,
except centipedes, spiders, and scorpions, and people
are very rarely bitten. In the two visits which I
made I never saw a scorpion or a centipede. The
spiders, I am forced to admit, are not pleasing,
except to students of entomology. They are a trifle
smaller than a tea-plate, and bristle with coarse
brown hair. Ants and the carpenter-bee do great
mischief, boring into and destroying furniture and
the woodwork of houses. The mosquito, however,




1894.]


MOSQUITOS.


309


is the serpent in this paradise. The pest was introduced at Lahina, on the island of Maui, in I826, by
the Wellington, which brought them in her watercasks from Mexico. A friend who told me the story
had heard Dr. Judd relate his experience at the
time of their advent into Honolulu. They came at
night in a blinding cloud, bloodthirsty and rapacious, stinging frightfully. Half the night he sat
up fanning his wife, while she stood guard over him
the remainder of the night, and in this way they
lived until nets could be procured from China. I
have never seen them in such numbers anywhere else.
Beds are supplied with nets, but strangely enough the
windows are not screened, as they are screened even
against flies throughout the United States. They are
objected to because it is thought they exclude the
air, yet it is never so hot in the Islands as it is in
the United States in the months of July, August, and
September. The mosquitos are especially vicious in
their attacks upon new-comers; they appear to prefer them to old residents, whose blood is probably
thinner. I was always forced to go to my room and
take refuge behind the nets, and dining out was a
painful ordeal, unless one wore thick boots and
stockings, that their sharp sting could not penetrate.
They gathered around one's head in clouds as soon
as the sun set, and it was difficult to keep from inhaling them into the mouth. They are much worse
when the south wind blows, and bukac, a Chinese




3Io


PRODUCTS.


[Ch. XXIV.


drug, is then burned; it stupefies them, and they
drop on the floor, and are swept up and destroyed.
They breed prodigiously in the rice fields, and in
the little irrigating canals which the Chinese gardeners construct through their banana groves; and
no means of preventing their increase has yet been
discovered.
There are no reptiles in Hawaii, this group, with
all the South Sea islands, being in this respect
unlike the West Indies, where thefer de lance and
other deadly species abound. Another stupid meddler very nearly brought about a calamity, which
fortunately was averted. He returned from India
with a boxful of what he supposed to be harmless
house-snakes, intended to destroy rats, which, when
they had been out at sea several days, displayed the
unmistakable marks of pythons. When their identity was fully established they were tossed overboard, and no experiment of the kind has since been
attempted. There are very few birds except oh the
islands of Kauai and Hawaii, where the oo (Acrulocercus nobilis) and the mamno (Drepanis pacifica) are
found - the honey-suckers which yield the precious
yellow feathers from which the royal mantles were
made.
The ubiquitous English sparrow has made himself
at home in Honolulu, with the pigeon, the German
dove, and the mynah, which has been brought from
India. The latter is fearless and impudent, riding




I894.]             BIRDS.                  3I1
about the fields upon the backs of pigs and cattle,
and stealing whatever it can find and carry off. The
superintendent of a mill told me that there was, in
the building over which he had supervision, a room
which had been closed for several months. When
they finally opened it, they found a great heap of
rubbish in the centre of the floor, for which no one
could account until a hole in the roof was discovered,
through which it was realised immediately that the
mynahs had entered, bringing frequent additions to
their hoarded stealings. Rags, string, paper, handkerchiefs, bits of lace and ribbon, were found in
the heap, which had been growing steadily during
the entire time that the room had been closed.




CHAPTER XXV.


THE PASSING OF THE NATIVE.
H   AWAII is a veritable land of the lotus-eater.
After a few days one is content to drift along
indifferent to the realities of life, and to what in
the exacting temperate zone we call "duty." The
climate explains a great deal in native character
that has defied the Christianising of half a century,
and yet finds solace in certain rites and ceremonies,
surreptitiously performed, which are a very marked
contrast with the belief in abstract virtue, as it is
embodied in orthodoxy.    Flowers, music, ease,
enough to eat - these seem to be the essentials of
life among the Hawaiians.  As a people they are
physically attractive. Many of them are tall, vigorous, well proportioned, with a freedom and grace
which are the result of loose and simple clothing
and of life spent almost wholly in the open air.
They have dark skin, silken, jet-black hair, flashing
black eyes, with long lashes, rather thick lips, and
teeth of dazzling whiteness. They are a most
amiable and light-hearted people, the embodiment
312




1894.]


NATURAL AFFECTION.


3I3


of generosity, cheerfulness, and hospitality. The
latter trait I have already noted; what is theirs is
yours, freely and without reservation. If a native is
hungry, he does not even ask food of his neighbour,
but enters his house, and the calabash of poi is at his
service - the common supply of all who come.
Clothing is borrowed in the same manner, and it
would be despicable meanness so much as to hint
that a return, even though delayed, is expected.
I had a very touching example of their affection.
I had accompanied Mrs. H -, the ex-Queen's
chief lady-in-waiting, to an entertainment given at
the Kawaiahao Church. We occupied one of the
elevated pews in the rear which had been set apart
for the ladies of the Court. Near us were seated
many of the Hawaiian friends of Mrs. H —. At
the conclusion of the programme she introduced me
to several of them, explaining that I was Admiral
Brown's sister.
"Not sister," I corrected, "but cousin."
"We have no word 'cousin' in the Hawaiian
language" (she had been speaking in Hawaiian to
her friends, many of whom could not speak English); "our only terms are 'mother' and 'sister;'
we do not recognise the relationship of cousin."
It requires very little to support life here. There
is no winter that demands outlay for fuel, heavy
clothing, and meat, which are so expensive and so
necessary in colder climates; cotton trousers and




314  THE PASSING OF THE NATIVE. [Ch. XXV.


shirt and a straw hat constitute the ordinary attire
of working men, while the women consider themselves sufficiently well clad with a chemise, a single
petticoat, and a holoku.
It is said that the vices that have decimated the
Hawaiian race so fearfully have been those with
which our own vaunted civilisation is not unfamiliar
- gin and licentiousness. The Islands were at one
time so densely populated that artificial ponds for
fish-raising had to be constructed; and out upon the
mountain sides, enclosed in low stone walls, are
yet to be seen the small tracts allotted to families,
upon which they were forced to raise additional supplies of food.
Alcohol in any form, it is well known, is fatal
in hot climates; and the natives of Hawaii, although
enjoying a more moderate temperature than might
be expected in this latitude, have not greater physical resistance against its ravages than is met with
nearer the Equator. The census of I896 fixed the
total population at 109,020, of which there are but
3I,019 native Hawaiians. The native population in
I890 was 34,436, of which 18,364 were males and
16,072 were females. The loss since I884 had been
5,578, a decrease which the census of I896 shows
has continued. On the other hand, there has been
again of 1,968 half-caste -again that has been,
perhaps, proportionally maintained.
The natives, like all aborigines, are peculiarly




I894. 


NATIVE HOUSES.


315


susceptible to contagion, all contagious diseases
being amongst them extremely fatal. In I848 the
measles, which were introduced from California,
spread through the Islands, and it is estimated that
one-tenth of the people died from the disease.
In 1853 smallpox was introduced, also from California. Every precaution was taken to prevent its
spread, but again there was terrible mortality,
although vaccination was resorted to as a preventive
measure. The total number of deaths was between
two thousand five hundred and three thousand.
With their decay in numbers their skill in the
beautiful arts which they once employed is becoming obsolete - that, especially, of building what are
called "native houses."  I was taken out to the
plantation of Mr. S. M. Damon to see two which
Mr. Damon had had constructed as examples of the
work of old Hawaiians. A grass hut, as such a
house is commonly called, conveys an idea of a rude
habitation, roughly constructed, with little idea of
comfort or beauty. These houses have both the
latter qualities in high degree. The framework
consisted of upright timbers of native wood, those
at either end of the house lengthening towards the
centre timber, which was the highest. There was no
ridge-pole, but across the top slanting lengths of bamboo had been placed at close intervals, and tied to the
timbers at either end with fine cord made of cocoa
fibre. The grass attached to this beautiful frame




316  THE PASSING OF THE NATIVE. [Ch. XXV.


was, in reality, a sort of woven mat, intricately
braided in a handsome pattern nearly six inches in
thickness. It not only excluded the rain, but the
heat of the sun. There were an aperture for a window and a doorway so low that the tall Hawaiian
was forced to stoop as he entered. Along one end
of the single apartment was the bed composed of
fine mats, piled one upon another, with a single
round bolster, also of woven matting. The floor
was covered with a mat; and the bed, which was
occupied by an entire family and any chance visitor
who might be enjoying their hospitality, was amply
provided with coverings of tapa-a sort of paper
made from the bark of the mulberry, macerated and
beaten with heavy billets into sheets, one being
joined to the other by beating the edges smoothly
together. The pieces of cloth were then tastefully
decorated in stripes or simple geometrical figures
with a wooden tool, or tinted with bright vegetable
dye pink, brown, or purple. The clothing of the
natives, which before the advent of the missionaries
consisted of flowing mantles, was made of the same
material. Some of the tapa was as thin as fine
muslin, and other qualities were as thick as heavy
cloth. After the arrival of the missionaries the
women not only donned the holoku, which was made
of calico or muslin, but learned also to make patchwork quilts, in which they became very expert,
using rich materials and the brilliant colours in




r-.
7i~
~~~~~L- ~ ~C ~  -~ 8
1  ~ 11 1 11~
~iW~I~ItL.-~I:lt ~ Bi sI   S I~II ~;i








1894.]  EFFECTS OF CIVILISATION.


317


which they delight. Professor Alexander states
that the house of a chief was sometimes from forty
to seventy feet in length by twenty in width, the
principal furniture being polished calabashes for
holding fire and water. The houses which Mr.
Damon was fortunate enough to have had constructed were built by a native then nearly eighty
years of age. He was no longer able to work, and
when he dies the art will probably die with him.
There was one other native house occupied by a
native family at Waikiki, which had one dark room
in the rear, with a roofed space in front of it, the
earthen floor being covered with a coarse mat, upon
which a company of women sat huddled together.
There were a half-dozen children, several lean cats,
and the inevitable yellow dog, without which no
Hawaiian mdnagec seems to be complete. Not one
of the family could speak a word of English, but I
was greeted with friendly smiles and gestures and
the kindly "Aloha."
Anglicising is slowly doing its work, apart from
the gin and the restraining clothing which are held
partially responsible for the decay of the race.
They are losing their joyousness by slow degrees.
Most of the customs are passing away which gave
a picturesqueness to Hawaiian life. It grieved me
inexpressibly to see, in evidence of this, a native
woman of the finest type wearing a trained holokn
which had a fashionable skirt edged with plaiting




318  THE PASSING OF THE NATIVE. [Ch. XXV.


sweeping the sidewalk, her graceful carriage seriously hampered by the French-heeled slippers into
which she had squeezed her well-developed feet.
The custom of wearing leis is also falling into disuse. The lower classes still adorn themselves with
garlands of flowers -marigold, plumaria, and tuberoses; but the better classes, those who, you are
immediately told, were educated abroad, scorn this
decoration, which they consider distinctly barbarous.
There has been a great deal of sentimentality in
the cry of theorists, "Hawaii for Hawaiians."  The
conditions which exist are largely of their own creating, and the only alternatives that remain, as I have
said many times, are to leave the Islands in that
state of nature when the most cruel rites of paganism
prevailed, or to accept the civilisation ordained and
perpetuated by the so-called missionary element.
The charge made against the latter is succinctly
this: They found here a simple people in possession
of the country, who received them with unquestioning generosity, accepted the religion which they
taught, discarded their idols, and discontinued
human sacrifices. The Anglo-Saxon proved to be
the stronger race, and multiplied steadily where the
natives visibly decreased, and the possessions of
former powerful chiefs and chiefesses became the
estates of their teachers and of their descendants.
It is certain, however, that violence has not been




1894.1


CHILDISH LEGISLATION.


319


resorted to. Gifts of land were voluntary, or the
land was purchased, and, coming into the possession
of provident and industrious whites, has been held
by them up to the present time. Putting aside all
prejudice, it must be frankly admitted that the
Hawaiian is inherently averse to work. He is
improvident, and has a passion for gambling -a
passion, however, that seems to be one of the characteristics of human depravity all the world over.
He is apparently devoid of forethought, and deficient in judgment to an astonishing degree. It has
been these two last traits, with his improvidence,
that have made him unfit to exercise authority or to
administer public affairs with any of the ability
requisite in leadership.
Some of the proceedings of native legislatures are
an indication of what might be called the childishness of the people as a race. One was, to give an
example, that there should be an Act promulgating
the statement that leprosy did not exist, and another
was to repeal the Act which provides for the necessary segregation of the lepers on Molokai. Among
those who are wealthy and educated a lavish extravagance in living seems to be the rule. They reside
in beautiful, luxuriously furnished houses, surrounded
by extensive gardens; they entertain like princes;
their children are sent to Europe to be educated.
With their dark Oriental beauty and native languor
they have acquired a Parisian polish, which is in




320  THE PASSING OF THE NATIVE. [Ch. XXV.


striking contrast to American nervousness and angularity. It is said by those whose word cannot be
doubted that many of even the intelligent retain
under the surface the ancient faith of their ancestors.
They consult their kuhunas, their native physicians,
in preference to English or American medical men.
I heard of a case of this sort which had occurred
only recently. A child had been sent to the Hospital with a dislocated hip, which had been encased
in a plaster cast. She was progressing favourably,
when the parents became dissatisfied, and finally,
notwithstanding the protests of the Hospital authorities, insisted on removing her and placing her under
the care of a native doctor. The cast was taken off,
and the child will be lame for life. What has been
done for Hawaiians by Hawaiians is traceable,
always, to foreign influence in the Government.
There are now throughout the islands millions of
dollars worth of highly improved property, a perfected system of public instruction, and a civilisation almost ideal in its character. It has been
charged that it is puritanical, hard, and narrow 
an easy accusation, always upon the tongue of the
demagogue, and of those who confound liberty with
licence. The only real question involved, when all
the charges of clamouring factions are sifted and
their demands are analysed, is: Shall what now
exists- society, wealth, comfort, in which even the
poorest shares -be dissipated by hands incapable




I894.]


CONCLUSION.


321


of administering law and order; or shall it be transferred to those who created it, and who, in saving
their own, must save with it that which yet remains
to the natives?
This is the sum and the substance of the whole
situation; and if America is not ready and willing
to assume the responsibility, England may be induced to accept it, and, before her, Japan, who has
already upon Hawaiian soil a representation of over
twenty-five thousand souls. No matter what the
outcome may be, the Hawaiian is a fading race, with
remnants of heathen customs still hampering it,
confronted by the stronger and the newer, trained
in government and refined, or at any rate strengthened, by civilisation.  It is one of those crises
which come to individuals and nations alike, when
destiny leaves little choice to the actor in the
drama, and events move on irresistibly through that
transition which evolves, at last, higher and better
conditions. It is the apparent triumph of the strong
over the weak; it is, in reality, the natural dissolution of that which has served its time. It seems a
hard and pitiless doctrine, but it is the unvarying
law of nature and of history.


21




I
I
I




INDEX.


Adams, the U. S. S., 214, 265.
Adler, German war-ship, 268.
Ah Fong, the merchant, 185.
Aholo, L., 4.
Ahulas, 128, 129.
Aki, the Chinaman, 4, 7.
Alameda, the s. s., 264, 265.
Alexander, Prof. W. D., his account
of the crisis of I887, 3, o1; criticism of King Kalaukaua, 11; official report to the Senate, 151; his
history, 296, 298.
Algaroba, the, 305.
Alliance, the U. S. S., 74, I50
American flag, hoisted at Honolulu,
56; notification to President Dole
that it would be lowered, 153; lowering of the, 159-x62.
American naval officers, 114, 162, I63,
262.
American protectorate, close of the,
163.
Annexation, favourably viewed by
President Harrison, 22; opposed
by President Cleveland, 22; growth
of the desire for, 28, 33, 85, 144, 157.
Annexation Club, the, 151, 152; Mr.
Blount's reply to, 152.
Ants, 308.
Apia, 266, 278.
Armstrong, Mr. W. N., Commissioner of Immigration, 8.
Ashford, Mr. C. W., 6.
Australia, a visit to, 277.
Australia, the s. s., 43, 145; the surgeon of, 70.


BAMBOO, growth of the, 304.
Bananas, giant, 240.
Beetle, a destructive, 228.
Bickerton, Justice, 19, 288.
Birds, 240, 310, 311.
Bishop, Mrs. Bernice Pauahi, 9.
Bishop, Mrs. Isabella Bird, 73, 243;
the old home of, II4; visit to Mr.
Sinclair's estate, I32, 133, 134; description of the Leper Settlement,
201; account of Hilo and Hawaii,
225; of King Lunalilo's reception,
226; Manual Training School
founded by, 253.
Black, of San Francisco, Mrs., 202.
Blount, Mr. J. H., mission of, 3, 22,
145, i64; credentials of, 146, 147;
treatment of the Provisional Government, 148, I50, 151, I56, I6o;
"Southern" proclivities, 149; reply to the Annexation Club, 152;
first official order, I63; close of his
administration, 209-214; succeeds
Mr. Stevens as American Minister,
210; succeeded by Mr. Albert S.
Willis, 2I0, 2"1; investigation into
the sources of his report, 213.
Boston, the U. S. S., IS, 24, 74, 117;
ordered to Hilo, 153; a ball on, 262,
263.
Bo'sun bird, the, 7I.
Brigham, Mr. W. T., 296.
Brown, Mr. C. A., 109, 187.
Brown, Admiral George, o1; takes
back King Kalaukaua's body to
Honolulu, II, 37; a member of




324


INDEX.


President Cleveland's Commission,
139; affection of Queen Kapiolani
for, 192; affection of Queen Liliuokalani for, 205-207.
Brown, Mr. Godfrey, 5.
Brown Cabinet, the, 6.
Buhac, use of the drug, 310.
Bush, Mr. John, 140, I64.
Call newspaper, the correspondent of
the San Francisco, 78.
Calliope, H. M. S., 268.
Camp Boston, a visit to, 114, 158;
the American marines at, 114; the
routine of, I 5.
Candle nut, the, 240.
Cane fields, 237.
Carpenter bee, the, 308.
Carter, Charles L., death of, 27.
Casey, Dr., 275.
Catholic nuns at Molokai, 200.
Chamberlain, Mr. M. A., 299.
Charleston, the U.S. S.., 0o, I.
Chicago, a visit to the World's Fair
at, 210.
Chinese fire brigade, a, 185; fruitvendors, 169; merchants, 184, 185;
mothers, respect shown to, 184;
New Year, the, 96; peasant woman, a, 183; servants, 94, 95;
schools, 180-184; temples and worshippers, 179, I8o.
Circuit Courts, 292.
Civilisation, effects of, 317.
Cleghorn, Mr., IoI; a visit to his
grounds, 101-105.
Cleveland, Mrs., receives Princess
Kaiulani, 176.
Cleveland, President, 3; opposes annexation, 22; dispatches Commissioner J. H. Blount to Hawaii, 22;
favours Queen Liliuokalani's restoration, 22; unpopularity of his
policy in the States, 24; his attitude towards the Republic, 25, 26;
takes the oath of office, 131; recommends the withdrawal of the


Hawaiian treaty, 138; his hostility
to the Provisional Government, 139;
his letter to President Dole, 146;
his connection with the " Blount
Mission," 209-2I1.
Climate, 250.
Coffee plantations, 238, 239, 303, 304.
Committee of Public Safety, the, 20.
Constitution, amendments of the, 6;
establishment of a new, 17, i8, 19;
drafts for a new, 27, 214; formal
adoption of the new, 285-288; summary of the, 290-294.
Constitutional conflict, a, I5-19.
Constitutional Convention, a, 24;
meeting of the, 282.
Contract labour system, the, 87, 88.
Convicts, 240.
Cooley, Judge, I39.
Corwin, the U. S. S., 23.
Courts of Justice, 292, 293.
Crisis of 1887, the, 2, 3; of I893, I6,
I7.
Croton, fine specimens of the, 107.
Cumming, Miss Gordon, 226, 243.
Customs, 255-261; ancient, 295-302.
DAMIEN, Father, 200.
Damon, Mr. S. M.,, I4, 6o, 78-183,
3x5, 317 -Dancing, 297.
David, Prince, 141.
Davies, Mr. Theophilus, 172, 175.
Diamond Head, 73; secret meetings
at, 26; a drive to, 8i.
District Courts, 292.
Dole, Judge Sandford B., appointed
Head of the Provisional Government, 21; his integrity and courage,
21, 28; chosen President of the
Republic, 25; attitude towards
President Cleveland's Commission,
143, I56; action as to the lowering
of the American flag, i6o; opposed
to the claims of Princess Kaiulani,
174; a dinner with, 203, 285; presents me with my passport, 264;




INDEX.


325


his address to the Constitutional
Convention, 283, 286-288.
Dominis, a portrait of Mr. John, 124.
Draper, Lieutenant, 60o, 162.
EDUCATION, 253.
Electorate, the, 291.
Ellis, Mr., 298.
Emma, Queen, 9; her education and
training, 12; a photograph of, 123.
Emory, Mrs., I84.
Engineering, knowledge of, 301.
Ethnology, a study in, 170.
Executive, the, 29I.
Expenditure, 290.
FARALLONES, the, 71.
Ferns, beautiful, 238, 239, 306.
Filial piety, the god of, i80.
Finnegan, the dog, 19, 20o.
Fire brigade, a Chinese, i85.
Food, native, 301.
Franklin, Lady, 243.
Funerals, costly, Io.
GAMES, 296.
Garnet, H. M. S., 74; a ball to the
officers of, 260.
Gay, Mr. Francis, 132, I33, 34; political views of, 134-137.
Gibson Cabinet, the, 4; dismissal of,
5.
Gibson, Mr. W. M., 4, 5, 80, 272.
Gods, the chief, 299.
Golden Gates, the, 71.
Green, Mr. W. L., 6.
Gresham, Mr. Walter Q., 24, 138,
139, 176.
HAILSTORM, a heavy, 244.
Harrison, President, favourable views
of annexation, 22; enmity between,
and the Secretary of State, 163.
Hawaii and the United States, bond
between, 284, 285.
Hawaii, Kamehameha II.'s cession of,
30; relations of, with the U.S.,




i-31; political affairs of, 35, 37; my
departure for, 63, 64; first impressions of, 75-77; staple diet of, 97;
the approach to, 215; my first ride
in, 220-225; commercial and social
status of, 250; ancient customs of,
295-302; poetry of, 298; religion of,
299; population of, 314.
Hawaii Ponoi, the, 26I.
Hawaiian whalers, 74; natives, 81;
society, 85; race problem, 91;
women, 97; honesty, ioo; firemen,
o09, IIo; patriotism, 130; mutton
and wool, 136, 137; horsewomen,
142, I43; League, the, 145, 150;
Commissioners, the, 157; flag, the
hoisting of the, I62; Board of
Health, i96; Boys, Royal School
for, 206; meals, 255; hospitality,
256.
Hawaiians, affection of the, 196, 313;
light-heartedness of, 198; character
of, 312-315; vices of, 314; susceptibility of, to disease, 315.
High-binders, 69.
Hilo, the whaling trade in, 74; a visit
to, 218; roads in, 220; lava above,
221; Japanese houses and Portuguese farmers in, 224; life in, 226 -234; Chinese quarter in, 237.
Holoku (garment), the, 76, 98, i88,
190, 193, 238.
Honolulu, the Brighton of, 73; the
whaling trade in, 74; my arrival in,
84; Japanese Consulate at, 88;
cleanliness of, 89; Chinese and
Portuguese quarters in, 89, 96, 179;
churches in, 90; vehicles in, 90;
drivers in, 91, 92; seasons, rainfall, and temperature of, 92; houses
in, 93; population of, 93; the paradise of the Chinese, 94, 178; servants in, 94, 95; streets of, 96;
society in, 99; Chinese population
of, 178-186; social life in, 250-263;
changes in, 252.
Hookuzpu, ceremonial, the, II.




326


INDEX.


Hooper, Major, 67.
Hosmer, Harriet, 211.
Hosmer, President, 306.
Hui Kalaiaina, the royalist society
of, 18.
Hula-hula dance, the, 297.
Hurricane of 1889, the, 268, 269.
IDE, Miss, 278.
Idol worship, 300.
Ie-ie vine, the, 240.
Ihoas, 298.
Iowa, the prairies of, 66.
Ipos, 298.
JAPANESE superstition, 63; immigration, 88, 89; labourers, 86, 87, 237;
frugality of, 88; officers, 99.
Jarves, 296.
Judd, Chief Justice, I9, 288; letter of
introduction to, 38.
Judd, Colonel C. H., 8.
Judd, Mrs., 300.
Judicial system, the, 292, 293.
Juries, 292.
KAAE, Junius, 4.
Kahili, the, 104, 124, 125, 126, I89,
204.
Kahoolawe, 72.
Kaiulani, Princess, named heir-apparent, 15; house of, 101, 102, 103,
104, 105; portrait of, IO6; her life
in England, 172; education of, 172;
her appeal to Congress, 173-175;
departure from England, 174; her
reception by Mrs. Cleveland, I76;
her return to England, 176; her
relations with Liliuokalani, 191.
Kalaukaua, King, descent of, I, 9;
turbulence of his reign, i; jealousy
of foreigners, 2; Cabinet, 4; asks
the European Powers to form a
protectorate, 4, 5; struggle to regain power, 6, 7; debts, 7; tour
round the world, 8; rejoicings on his
return, 8; coronation ceremony, 9;


extravagance, 9, Io; summons a revolutionary convention, o1; dies at
San Francisco, II; election, 13;
names Liliuokalani as heir-apparent,
13; scheme for a national lottery,
i6; a presentation to, So; personal
effects, 122; a photograph of, I23;
the library of, 124; portraits of,
189, I9o; his attachment to Admiral
Brown, 192.
Kalaukaua's Palace, a visit to, 122;
funeral, a survival of, 128; sword,
129; Singing Boys, 142, 260; crown
jewels, theft of, i66-i68.
Kamehameha, King, offers the island
of Niihau to the Sinclairs, 133.
Kamehameha III., his cession of
Hawaii, 29.
Kamehamehas, the old, I; photographs of, I23.
Kamehameha School for Boys, 296.
Kanaloa, the god, 299.
Kane, the god, 299.
Kanikuais, 298.
Kapiolani, Queen, at the Golden
Jubilee of Queen Victoria, 14; the
crown of, 167; her estates, 187; reception by, 187-194; villa, I88;
manner, 190;   strained  relations
with Liliuokalani, 191; popularity,
19I; gratitude to Admiral Brown,
192.
Kauai, 72, I32; fern forests of, 306.
Kava, the manufacture of, 274, 275,
302.
Kawaiahao School for Girls, 206,253.
Keelikolani, Ruth, 9.
Kekupuohe, dirge composed by Queen,
298, 299.
Kemoa, P. P., 4.
Kileauea, volcano of, 216, 235-249;
the hotel at, 241; the crater of,
242-249; visitors to, 243; activity
of, 247.
Knapp, Miss Adeline, 78, 8I.
Koa wood, 241, 296, 304; a cylinder
of, 192.




INDEX.


327


Koebele, Professor Albert, 232, 233,
234, 266, 275, 307~
Kona coffee, 70.
Kou wood, 304.
Ku, the god, 299.
Kuhunas, the, 320.
Kukui, the, 240, 241.
LABOUR system, the, 87, 88, 89.
Lady-bird, a useful, 232, 233.
Lahina, 309.
Laird, Lieutenant, I15, 122, I27, 131,
I58.
Lanais, 72, 79, 93, 141.
Laws, character of the, 291.
Legislative procedure, 293.
Legislatures, native, 319.
Leis, garlands of, 75, 97, 141, I42,
190, 204, 318.
Leper receiving station, the, I96.
Leper Settlement, the, 195-202; improvements at, 201.
Lepers, the, 72; tax for, I98; cheerfulness of, I99, 202; the plan of
isolating, 200.
Leprosy, first signs of, 197.
Like-Like, portrait of the Princess,io6.
Liliuokalani, Queen, accession of, 12;
named heir-apparent by King Kalaukaua, 13; misrule, I5, 16; schemes
for a new Constitution, 17, 18, 19;
throne declared vacant, 20; restoration favoured by President Cleveland, 22; freedom allowed her, 25;
plots v. the Republic, 26; sentenced
to imprisonment, 27; formally abdicates, 28; regret at her dethronement, 77; the adherents of, 85; the
home of her girlhood, 114; a photograph of, 123; relations with Queen
Kapiolani and Princess Kaiulani,
191; an audience with, 203-208;
her town house, 203; simplicity of
her life, 208.
Lono, the god, 299.
Lottery, national, x6, 17.
Louis Philippe, a portrait of, 123.


Luau, a, 230, 231, 232.
Ludlow, Captain, 104.
Lunalilo, King, i; death of, without
heirs, 12; a reception given by, 226.
MCGREW, Dr. J. S., 152.
McKinley,   President,  effects  of
his election, 28; his message to
Congress, 29.
Mahan, Captain, his views of the
situation, 29.
Mahukona, 217.
Malietoa, King, residence of, 271, 272,
273; bed-chamber of, 273.
Mamo bird, the, 31I.
Mamos, the sacred, 125, 126.
Manchester products, 267.
Manners and customs, 255-261.
Mariposa, the s. s., 170, 265, 277.
Marsden, Mr., 140.
Maui, 72, 216, 229, 309.
Mauna Kea peak, 216, 218, 229, 236,
238; wild cattle on, 307.
Mauna Loa peak, 216, 221, 229, 236,
238; wild cattle on, 307.
Memorial Day, 282, 283.
Mills, Mr., 204, 294.
Missionaries, the, 85.
Mohican, the U. S. S., 74, 150;
the captain of, 104; a reception on
board, 203.
Molokai, 72, 195-202, 216; division of, into sanitary districts, 196;
Catholic nuns at, 200; formation
of, 201.
Monarchy,   President  Cleveland's
schemes for the restoration of the,
22, 23; abolition of the, 24, 25, 91.
Monowai, the s. s., 71.
Mongoose, importation of the, 307,
308.
Mormon, the Book of, 272.
Mosquitos, 117, 308, 309, 310.
Mouse-shooting, 296.
Musical instrument, native, 260,
297.




328


INDEX.


Naniwa, the Japanese ironclad, 74,
86, I44; crew of, 98, 99.
Nasturtium, luxuriant growth of, 244,
305 -Neumann, Mr., 140, 141, 176, 204.
Nevada, crossing the, 66.
New Zealand, a visit to, 264-277;
the climate and people, 277.
Niihau, 72; offered to the Sinclairs
by King Kamehameha, I33.
OAHU, 72, 216, 228.
Oahu College, Ioo; flowers at, 306.
Oakland, 67.
Ohalo shrub, the, 244.
Olona, or native hemp, 127.
Omaha, 66.
Oo bird, the, 126, 127, 190, 31.
Opium, sale of, I6, 17.
Osbourne, Mr. Lloyd, 276, 279.
Ostrich farm, a visit to an, o09
et seq.
PACIFIC, the, 71.
Palm, varieties of the, 304.
Pandanus leaf, the, 304.
Patriotic League, the, I64.
Pearl Harbour, cession of, 13.
Pele, the deity, 244, 249.
Philadelphia, the U. S. S., withdrawal of, from Honolulu Harbour,
ordered by President Cleveland, 26;
return to Honolulu, 282.
Pigs, the killing of wild, 307.
Pine-apple plantations, 239.
Plantations, the multiplication of,
254.
Poetry, 298.
Poi, the staple diet, 97, 98; vessels
for holding, 125.
Police, a visit from the ex-Chief of,
165.
Porter, Mr. Robert, i6o.
Po;-tsmouth, the U. S. S., 13.
Portuguese, the, 73, 98.
President, the powers of the, 291.
Products, 303-310.


Provisional Government, the, 21,
152, 290; organises a Republic, 24,
25; the friends of, 157.
Public Safety, Committee of, 20.
Punchbowl crater, the, 78.
RAGSDALE, William, 201.
Rainbow Falls, the, 220.
Reciprocity treaty, the, 250; the
effect of, 254.
Reform party, the, 6.
Religion, 299.
Reptiles, absence of, 308.
Republic, establishment of a, 24, 25;
the first President of, 25; attitude
of President Cleveland towards, 25;
ex-Queen's plots v., 26; attempt
to overthrow, 28; prosperity under
the, 28; formal proclamation of,
285.
Restoration of the monarchy, President Cleveland's scheme for, 22,
23.
Revenue, 290.
Revolution in Hawaii, announcement
of, 56.
Revolutionary convention, a, 1o.
Riding, the method of, 142, 143, 244,
245, 257, 258.
Robertson, Colonel J. W., 122, 123,
129, 130, 167, 203.
Rooke, Dr., the adopted daughter of,
12.
Rosa Antone, 4.
Roses, wholesale destruction of, 228.
Rotarua, the baths at, 279.
Round Top peak, the, 73.
Royal Hawaiian Hotel, the, 78, 79;
the servants and officials of, 8I.
Royal mantle, the cost of a, 127.
Royal School for Hawaiian Boys, 206,
252.
Royal succession, Hawaiian law of, 12.
Rush, the U. S. cruiser, 144.
SACRAMENTO Valley, 67.
Samoa, 266, 267; natives of, 267; a




INDEX.


329


rebellion in, 271, 276; prisoners in,
271; native R. C. Church in, 274.
Samoan dancers, 170; headdress, 269;
customs and language, 270; houses,
270; chief, a, 274; nuns, 274; love
of cigarettes, 275.
San Francisco, 67; death of King
Kalaukaua at, o1, II; a visit to
China-town, 68; the Mid-Winter
Fair at, 211.
"Scale-blight " parasite, the, 233.
Schofield, General, I40.
Scientific farming, 254.
Scott, Mr. John A., 254.
Screw palm, the, 240.
Seal Rocks, the, 68.
Servants, 250.
Severance, Mr. Henry M., 148.
Severance, Mr. Luther, entertains the
officers of the Boston, 154; the
home of, 225; culture of, 226.
Sewell, Mr. Harold, 204; appointed
American minister, 294.
Sierra Nevada mountains, the, 66, 67.
Shakespeare class, a ladies', 229.
Shark-killing, 296.
Sinclairs, the, 132, I33.
Singing Boys, King Kalaukaua's, 142,
260.
Skerrett, Admiral, 150.
Smith, Mr. W. 0., i6o, 174.
Society, 85, 99, 250-263.
Soil, productiveness of the, 254.
Soper, General, i6o, I6i, I62, 285.
Sparrow, the English, 311.
Spiders, 308.
Squid, 98.
Stevens, Mr., U. S. Minister, succeeded by Mr. Albert S. Willis,
22; letter of introduction to, 38;
his part in political affairs, 86; his
resemblance to Mr. Lincoln, 153; a
guest of the U. S. S. Boston, 154;
death of, 156; a call upon, 203.
Stevens, Miss, visit of, to Hamakua,
154; death of, 155.
Stevenson, Mrs., 279.


Stevenson, Robert Louis, his views on
the Leper Settlement, 202; a meeting with, 266, 278; death, 281.
Strong, Mrs., 276.
Sugar manufacturers, 254, 303.
Sulphur banks, 244.
Superstitions, 301.
Supreme Court, the, 293.
Swimming, 257-261.
Swimming-boards, feats with, 296.
Swinburne, Captain, 86, 114, 117,
I, 20, 121, 158.
Sydney, 281.
Tabu, the, 300.
Tantalus peak, the, 73.
Tapa, 266, 316.
Taro (Colocasia antiquorum), 97, 98.
Tenedos, H. M. S., 13.
Thurston, L. A., 6; on Japanese
immigration, 88; on the streets of
Honolulu, 93; message of President
Cleveland to, 138; his handbook,
253; efforts on behalf of Hawaiian
liberty, 289.
Ti leaf, use of the, 192.
Trade winds, 92.
Trenton, scene of the wreck of the
U. S. S., 268.
Tropical forest, a, 238.
Tropical showers, 72.
Tuscarora, the U. S. S., 13.
Twain, Mark, 243; his experiences,
251.
UNITED STATES troops requested to
maintain order, 20.
VAILIMA, 276, 279.
Vandalia, scene of the wreck of the
U. S. S., 268.
Vedelia cardinalis, the, 232.
Victor Emmanuel, a bust of, 80.
Volunteer troops, 131.
WAIKIKI, 73, 8I; a ball at, 260.
Walker, Admiral, 26, 285, 288.




330


INDEX.


Washington's birthday, celebration of,
74.
Washington Place, 203.
Wellington, the s. s., 309.
Whalers, Hawaiian, 74.
Wilder, Honourable W. C., I39, 140.
Willis, Mr. Albert S., instructed to
restore Queen Liliuokalani, 22; his
negotiations with her, 23; absents
himself from the Constitutional
Convention, 25; succeeds Mr.
Blount as American minister, 210;
death of, 294.


Wilson, Mr. C. B., I5.
Wiltse, Captain G. C., I8.
Women, the daring and resolution of,
38.
Women of Hawaii, the, 97; professions open to, 229.
Wood, varieties of hard, 304.
Wool-growing, 132, 133-I37.
World's Fair, the, 192; a visit to,
210.
ZIEGLER, Captain, 16x.








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THE UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN
DATE DUE
JUL 9 9983




V/ERSITY


3


5 04878 5151




DU
6 7. 2