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47TH CONGRESS, }
1st Session.


SENATE.


Ex. Doc.
No. 186.


REPORT
OF
AN EXAMINATION
OF THE


UPPER COLUMBIA RIVER
AND


THE TERRITORY IN ITS VICINITY
IN
SEPTEMBER AND OCTOBER, 1881,


TO DETERMINE IT$ NAVIGABILITY, AND ADAPTABILITY
TRANSPORTATION.


TO STEAMBOAT


MADE BY DIRECTION OF TIE
COMMANDING GENERAL OF THE DEPARTMENT OF TIlE COLUMBIA,
BY      ^
Lieut. THOMAS W.fSYMONS,
CORPS Ol ENNGINFEKS, U. S. AllMY,
'HIEF ENGINEER OF THE DEPARTMENT OF THE COLUMBIA.
-s~-      -I
WASHINGTON:
GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE.
1882.








47TH CONGRESS,               SENATE.                     Ex. Doc.
1st Session.                                           No. 186.
L E T T E R
LETTER
FROM
THE SECRETARY OF WAR,
TRANSMITTING
In response to Senate Resolution of April 5, 1882, a letter from the Chief
of Engineers of yesterday's date, and the accompanying copy of a report
from Lieut. T. W. Symons, Corps of Engineers, embracing all the information in this Department respecting the navigable waters of the Upper
Columbia River and its tributaries, and of the country adjacent thereto.
APRIL 24, 1882.-Referred to the Committee on Printing.
WAR DEPARTMENT,
Washington City, April 21, 1882.
The Secretary of War has the honor to transmit to the United States
Senate, in response to the resolution of that body of the 5th instant,
calling for information on the subject, a letter from the Chief of Engineers of yesterday's date, and the accompanying copy of a report from
Lieut. T. W. Symons, Corps of Engineers, embracing all the information in this department respecting the navigable waters of the Upper
Columbia River and its tributaries, and of the resources of the country
adjacent thereto.
ROBERT T. LINCOLN,
Secretary of War.
The PRESIDENT pro tem.
of the United States Senate.
OFFICE OF THE CHIEF OF ENGINEERS,
UNITED STATES ARMY,
Washington, D. C., April 20, 1882.
SIR: I have the honor to return herewith the resolution of the Senate
of the 5th April, 1882, directing the Secretary of War to report to the
Senate of the United StatesAny and all information in his possession respecting the navigable waters of the
Upper Columbia River and its tributaries, and the resources of the country through




2


COLUMBIA RIVER.


which such navigable waters pass, and the character and cost of improvements required to render said Upper Columbia and its tributaries available for purposes of
transportation; and, particularly, such information and data as has been collected
upon said subjects by Lieut. T. W. Symons, Chief Engineer of the Department of the
Columbia.
And in response to transmit a copy of the report of Lieut. T. W.
Symons, Corps of Engineers, which embraces all the information in this
office respecting the navigable waters of the Upper Columbia River and
its tributaries, and of the resources of the country adjacent thereto.
The examination by Lieutenant Symons was made by direction and
under the instructions of the commanding general, Department of the
Columbia.
Very respectfully, your obedient servant,
H. G. WRIGHT,
Chief of Engineers, Brig. and Bvt. Maj. Gen.
Hon. ROBERT T. LINCOLN,
Secretary of War.
WASHINGTON, D. C., April 3, 1882.
SIR: D)uring the months of September and October, 1881, in compliance with orders from Brig. Gen. Nelson A. Miles, commanding I)epartment of the Columbia, I made an examination of the Columbia River,
to determine its navigability and the advisability of putting steamboats on it to be used in the transportation of troops, stores, supplies,
&c.
In the prosecution of this duty I examined the river at the Little Dalles,
Kettle Falls, and Grand Rapids, and traversed the river in a small boat
from the last-named rapids, near the mouth of the Colville River, to the
mouth of the Snake River, making as careful a survey as possible with
the time and means at my disposal.
I have the honor to transmit herewith a report on the examination
made, with a map of the river on a scale of 1 inch to 2 miles, and maps
on a larger scale of several of the obstructions in the river.
The report embraces a description of the portion of the river examined and the lands in its vicinity, and also of the other portions of the
Upper Columbia and the country drained by it and its tributaries, derived from my observations and travels during the past four years, and
from a careful study of the reports and writings of others.
I have sought to show the economical relations of the Columbia to
the surrounding country, and the importance of making that portion of
it lying within the territory of the United States navigable as far as
practicable, and have suggested a plan for so doing.
I have added to this a historical and geological account of the Columbia, and have endeavored to give a clear idea of the fertile and extensive




COLUMBIA RIVER.                       3
Great Plain composing the northern portion of the interior basin of the
Columbia.
It is believed that the maps and information contained in this report
will be of value in the navigation of the Columbia, in any questions
which may arise in connection with the improvement of the river, to all
persons who take an interest in the development and prosperity of the
Northwest, and to all the civil and military agents of the government
whose duties require of them a knowledge of the country embraced.
With the approval of General Miles I submit this report to you, with
the request that it be published, and that 300 copies may be furnished
for use in the Department of the Columbia.
Very respectfully, your obedient servant,
THOMAS W. SYMONS,
First Lieutenant Corps of Engineers.
Brig. Gen. H. G. WRIGHT,
Chief of Engineers, U. S. Army, Washington, D. C.








-


THE UPPER COLUMBIA RIVER,
AND TiHE
GREAT PLAIN OF THE COLUMBIA.


r








CONTENTS.
CHAPTER 1.
TIHE UPPER COLUMBIA RIVER ABOVE (RANI RAPIDS.
Explanatory-The Little I)allcs-Steamer " 49 " —Improve:ientof Little Ialles-Road
from Colville to Little Dalles-Above Little Dalles-Navigable to Death RapidsCharacter of country along river-Pend d'Oreille River or Clarke's Fork-Pend
d'Oreille Lake-Dr. Suckley's journey in 1853, from Fort Owen to VancouverNavigability of Clarke's Fork-Missoula Basin-Bitter Root Mountains and RiverElk City trail-Bitter Root Valley-Missoula River-Hell Gate-Deer Lodge-Big
Blackfoot-Little Blackfoot-Flathead River-Coriacan Defile-Jocko River-Flathead Lake-Hot Spring Creek-Navigability of Flathead River and Lake-Elk
City trail-Lou Loll trail-Ska-ka-ho pass-Cmeur d' Alene pass-Clarke's Fork passEstimate of prairie land in Missoula Basin-Kootenay River-Between Little Dalles
and Grand Ralpids-Hudson Bay Fort-British Fort Colville-Colville Indian Reservation-Colville Valley-Fort Colville-Roads-Kettle Falls-Grand Rapids-Kettle
River.
CHAPTER II.
GRAND RAPIDS TO THE SPOKANE RIVER.
Preparations for the journey-John Rickey-Old Pierre-Crew-Mr. Downing-Method
of mnaking survey —Estimating distances-Leave Rickey's land ing-l)riftwood Rock
Island-Sans 'oil Indian settlement and River Bar-Turtle Rapids-Roger's BarElbow-Bend-Mitre Rock-Spokane Rapids-Easy improvement of Spokane RapidsCountry along the Columbia-Beautiful country-Chinese miners-Spokane RiverCamp Spokane-Spokane Falls-Bridge over Spokane River-Ferry over Columbia.
CHAPTER III.
COLUMBIA RIVER FROM TIE SPOKANE RIVER TO LAKE CIIELAN.
Leave Spokane River-Hawk Creek-" Virginia Bill "-Road from the Great Plain to
the Columbia-Welch Creek-Whitestone-Legend about the Whitestone-Whitestone Creek-Friedlander's-Hell Gate-Sans Poil River-Manmmoth Spring-Grand
Coul6e-Monaghan's Rapids-Ice-transported boulders-Equilibrium Rapids-Nespilem River-Cannon or Mah-kin Rapids-Kalichen Falls and Whirlpool RapidsExcitement of shooting the Rapids-Foster Creek Rapids-Foster Creek-Okinakane
River-Okinakane Indians-Ross Cox-Description of old Fort Okinakane-Dog
cure of consumption-McClellan's explorations-Imnportance of position at mouth
of Okinakane-Methow River-Methow Rapids-McClellan's report on the Methow
country-Lake Chelan-ChelanIndians-Hieroglyphics-Camp Chelan.
7




8                          COLUMBIA RIVER.
CHAPTER IV.
LAKE CHELAN TO SNAKE RIVER.
Chelan Creek-Downing's Rapids-Ribbon Bluff-Entiatqua River-Entiatqua BarLongview Point-Wenatchee River-Wenatchee Bar-Rock Island Rapids-Cabinet
Rapids-Victoria Rock-Basaltic Bluffs-Lodge Stick Bluff-Coul6e mouths-Gualquil Rapids-Island Rapids-Crab Creek Coul6e-Sentinel Bluffs-Priest RapidsWhite Bluffs-White Bluffs Depot-Yakima River and Valley-Nachess River and
Valley-Atahnam Creek-Pisko Creek-Lumbering on the Yakima-Snake RiverAinsworth-Character of Indian crew-Arrive at Vancouver.
CHAPTER V.
TABLE OF DISTANCES ON THE COLUMBIA RIVER.
CHAPTER VI.
NAVIGATION OF THIE COLUMBIA RIVER.
Willamette to the sea-Cascades to the Willamette-The Dalles-Portions of river at
present navigated-Country benefited by improvements at the Cascades; at the
Dalles; at Priest Rapids; at Cabinet and Rock Island Rapids-Bars-Benefits from
improving the Nespilem Rapids; Hell Gate; Spokane Rapids-General considerations on the improvement of the river-Improvement at Priest Rapids-Boat railway advocated-Facilities furnished by railway-Type of boats to use-Rise and
fall of the river-Improvement of Cabinet and Rock Island Rapids-Improvement
of the Nespilem Rapids-Summary of improvements advocated-Cost of improvements-Other possible methods of improvement-Grand Rapids, Kettle Falls, and
Little Dalles-Portage about these rapids-Portage system on the Columbia-Captain Pingstone's report on the Upper Columbia.
CHAPTER VII.
GENERAL DESCRIPTON OF THE COLUMBIA AND ITS TRIBUTARIES.
Importance of internal water communication-Drainage areas-The Snake RiverLake Bonneville-Falls-Tributaries of Snake River-Salmon River-Clearwater
River-Palouse River-Upper Columbia-Canoe River-Portage River-Committee's Punch-bowl-Athabasca Pass-Journey across the Athabasca Pass-Boat encampment-Beautiful Cataract-Selkirk and Gold Ranges-Dalles des morts-City
of Rocks-Little Narrows-Terrible story of hardship-Arrow Lakes-Kootenay
River-Clarke's Fork-Flathead River and Lake-Pend d'Oreille Lake-Spokane
River-Okinakane River-Lower tributaries.
CHAPTER VIII.
IISTORY OF THE DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF THE COLUMBIA RIVER.
Pope Alexander VI-Treaty of Partition of the Ocean-Search for passage to IndiaSpanish colonies and explorations-Discovery of Pacific Ocean-Straits of AnianStraits of Magellan-Conquest of Mexico-Explorations along North American
coasts-Proposed Isthmian Canal-Russian discoveries-Hecata's discovery of the
Columbia-Explorations into the interior from the East-Captain Jonathan Carver
-Oregon River-Meaning of Oregon-Fur trade with China-Meare's discoveryDiscoveries and voyages of Gray and Kendrick-Gray's Harbor-Discovery of the
Columbia River by Gray-Broughton's examination-Expedition of Lewis and
Clarke-Astor's Pacific Fur Company-Tonquin-Hunt's Land Expedition-Northwest Fur Company-Thompson's voyage down the Columbia-Fort OkinakaneSpokane House-Explorations of the Fur Traders-Astoria transferred to Northwest Fur Company-Fort Nez Perc6 or Walla Walla-Consolidation of Northwest
and Hudson Bay FurCompanies-Fort Vancouver-Captain Bonneville-Captain
Wilkes-Lieutenant Johnson-Captain Fremont-Titlo of Oregon confirmed to




COLUMBIA RIVER.


9


United States-Organization of Oregon Territory-Discovery of gold in California
-Pacific Railroad Surveys-Warren's Map of the United States-Military Map of
Department of the Columbia-Need of further surveys in Department of the Columbia.
CHAPTER IX.
THE GEOLOGICAL IISTORY OF THE CASCADE MOUNTAINS AND THE COLUMBIA RIVER.
Paleozoic Era-Rocky Mountain chain-Sierra Nevada and Cascade Ranges-Gorge
of Columbia through Cascades-Upheaval of Coast Range-Fissure Eruptions from
the Cascades-Great lava flow-Fissure eruptions changed to crater eruptionsMount Pitt-Mount Scott-Union Peak-Crater Lake-Klamath Basin and Lakes ---
Elevated Region-Diamond Peak-Odell Lake-Deschutes River-Davis' LakeThree Sisters-Mount Jefferson-Mount Hood-Mount Adams-Saint HelensRanier or Tacoma-Recent eruptions of Mount Saint Helens-Volcanic activity
of Mount Hood-Nachess Pass-Yakima Valley-Sentinel Bluffs-Yakima PassWenatchee Mountains-Spokane River-Limestone and granite-Great BasinTertiary Upheaval-Post Tertiary Oscillations-Glacial Epoch-Pend d'Oreille
Tertiary Beds-Glacier-Spokane Plains-Glacier lakes-Ancient Lake Lewis —
Champlain and Terrace Epoch-Puget Sound-Formation of River Canons.
CHAPTER X.
THE GREAT PLAIN OF THE COLUMBIA.
Area-Bunch-grass-Soil-Production-Test of soil-Drawbacks-Sage-brush landsCombat of sage-brush and bunch-grass-Statististics of productiveness-Division of
the Great Plain-PALOUSE SECTION-Scab land-Steptoe BIutte-Parallelism of
streams-Palouse Falls-Legend-SPOKANE SECTION-General features-Divide
between Crab Creek and the Spokane River-Railroads-Spokane Plains-Spokane
Falls-Coeur d'Al6ne Lake-Medical Lakes-CRAB CREEK AND GRAND COUL:E
SECTION-Inhabitants-Camp Chelan-Ritzville to Camp Chelan-Grand Conl6eMiddle Pass of Grand Coul6e-Moses Coul6e-Foster Creek-Badger MountainRailroads-Commercial centers-MOSEs' LAKE OR DESERT SECTION-Ancient. Lake
-Crab Creek-Moses' Lake-Account of journey across Moses' Lake and Grand
Coul6e Sections-Lack of water-Black Rock Spring-Crab Creek-Pilot Rock
and Grand Coule —Lake Chelan-WALLA WALLA SECTION-YAKIMA SECTIONLEWISTON AND MOUNT IDAIO SECTION-Craig's Mountains-Great denudationCamas prairies.
CHAPTER XI.
GEOGRAPHICAL NOMENCLATURE OF THE COLUMBIA RIVER REGION.
Origin of names-Cour d'Al1ne-Palonse-Spokane-Okinakane-Nez Perc6-Flathead-Columbia River-Snake River-Yakiina-Des Chutes-Umatilla —Iangman's
Creek-Rock Creek-Union Flat Creek-Pine Creek-Steptoe Butte-WenatcheeMethow-Lawyer's Creek-Tacoma.
MAP ILLUSTRATIONS.
Little Dalles.
Kettle Falls.
Grand Rapids.
Spokane Rapids and vicinity.
Rock Island Rapids.
Victoria Rock.
Glimpse of the Grand Coul6e.
Map of Columbia River from the boundary to Snake River-25 sheets.
Skeleton map of the Upper Columbia from Department map, showing location of
river sheets and ancient Lake Lewis.
8S Ex. 186 -2








C IAPTER I.
THE UPPER COLUMBIA RIVER ABOVE GRAND RAPIDS.
EXPLANATORY.
During the months of September and October of the year 1881 I made
a voyage in a bateau down the Columbia River from the Colville Valley
to Ainsworth, at the mouth of the Snake River, making as careful a
survey of the river and examination of the rapids as the time and means
at my disposal would permit. I also, while performing the duties required of me in the Colville Valley, made an examination of the Little
Dalles, and of a portion of the river between the Little Dalles and
Kettle Falls.
The country about the Columbia and its tributary streams is rapidly
filling up with settlers and attaining an importance which it has never
before had, and this influx of people is certain to continue for a long
time to come, while there are large tracts of fine land available for settlement.
The time is not far distant when the question of water transportation
on these upper portions of the river will demand the attention of the
government. I therefore propose to make as careful and as full a report
concerning this river, its navigability, and economic relations, and concerning the country adjoining it, as I am able to do, giving also maps of
the river showing the obstructions, rocks, rapids, bars, &c., on a scale of
two miles to the inch, with maps on a larger scale of some of the principal obstructions.
THE LITTLE DALLES.
The Little Dalles is situated by river fifteen miles south of the point
where the Columbia crosses the British line, and about twenty-six miles
above Kettle Falls.
The cafion of the Columbia is here deep and narrow, and no bottom
lands lie along the river. The Dalles are caused by a contraction of the
channel, the limestone bluffs which form the banks of the river projecting into the stream, and damming back the water into a deep, quiet
stretch above. The fall here is inconsiderable, and I believe the place
could be improved for navigation during low and medium stages of the
river by clearing away some of the projecting points of the bluffs and
the small rock islands in the stream. Years ago, when the excitement
about the gold mines on the upper waters of the Columbia and Fraser
11




12


COLUMBIA RIVER.


rivers was at its height, a steamer was built here and ran from the
Little Dalles up the river for a distance of about 225 miles to Death
Rapids, transporting supplies and carrying passengers. This steamer,
the "49," during the low stages of the water, used at times to be taken
down to Kettle Falls, going through the Little Dalles, and being lined
back over them. The tree was pointed out to which she used to make
fast in ascending the rapids.
I estimate that the removal of 40,000 cubic yards of rock, limestone,
would make a good, clear channel through which steamers could pass up
and down at all stages of water. The limestone rock would be very
easily worked, and could be readily disposed of.
A good portage wagon road exists now around these Little I)alles.
The road to the Little Dalles leaves Fort Colville and follows down
the valley of Mill Creek to its junction with Echo Valley, up which it
goes as far as Bruce's ranch. From this latter point it bears westward
through a gap in the hills and reaches the Columbia River by an easy
descent, and follows along its left bank to the rapids. During the old
mining excitement quite a town was started here, which has been
almost completely destroyed by fire, the principal vestige of its former
grandeur being the numerous signs still remaining along the road
telling travelers where to buy their merchandise.
The road is very good all the way, the principal travelers over it
being the Chinamen who are engaged in mining on the upper river and
who go to Colville for their supplies.
COLUMBIA RIVER ABOVE THE LITTLE DALLES.
Captain Pingstone, of the Oregon Railway and Navigation Company,
states that above the Little Dalles the Columbia is navigable for 280
miles to Death Rapids, and that he himself has navigated it on the
steamer "49" to this point. This distance I believe to be considerably
overestimated, and that it is really about 225 miles. This is the distance given by the voyageurs of the Hudson Bay Fur Company who
navigated the river in their bateaux.
The country through which this navigable portion flows is mountainous as a general thing. There are, however, large areas of rather level
ground, especially along the enlargements of the river known as the
Arrow Lakes. I have been informed that along these Arrow Lakes lies
one of the finest belts of timber known to man-cedar, white pine, and fir
of large size and of the most excellent quality growing in great abundance. Upon those portions of the river beyond the navigable limit
there is also a vast quantity of fine timber which will at some time in
the future become very valuable and be brought to market on and in
the waters of the Columbia.
Concerning the interior of the country away from the river in this
extreme upper portion very little is known. From all that I can learn
respecting it, it would seem certain that it is largely composed of tim



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1881.The -L jt daeJD~ e,Jks
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SEN. EX. DOC. NoL.1t0i, Ist SESS., 47th CONG.








COLUMBIA RIVER.


13


bered and barren mountains, with here and there some fine valleys and
many extensive tracts of hilly country covered with bunch-grass, and it
is my belief that the climate is not so rigorous, but that it will some
day be very extensively used for pastoral purposes, as well as largely
brought under cultivation and made to minister to the wants of man.
It is certain that upon the upper waters of the Okinakane, from fifty
to seventy-five miles to the west of the Columbia, much fine land exists,
and there settlers have already found homes.
PEND D'OREILLE RIVER OR CLARKE'S FORK.
Just north of the boundary line the Columbia receives from the east
the waters of the Pend d'Oreille River or Clarke's Fork of the Columbia,
which is described in the lower portion of its course as being a temnpestuous unnavigable stream, full of rocks, rapids, and falls, flowing
through a deep and rugged canon, discharging its waters into the Colunbia with a great roar over a fall fifteen feet in height. About the
headwaters of this river and Pend d'Oreille Lake immense bodies of fine
timber are known to exist; many rich mines have been discovered, as
well as a quarry of the finest marble. Pend d'Oreille Lake is navigable nearly throughout its entire extent and the river below the lake is
reported by Dr. Suckley, in 1853, to be navigable for thirty miles, when
a fall of six and a half feet is met with. Dr. Suckley, while connected
with the Pacific Railroad surveys, started October 15, 1853, from Fort
Owen on the Bitter Root River in a canoe made from three bullocks'
hides, and a crew of two white men and an Indian. No one knew anything of the character of the river ahead of them, and it was, therefore,
necessary to proceed with great caution. The Bitter Root was found
quite shallow in many places, and the canoe, which, when loaded, drew
only ten inches, had frequently to be lightened until he passed the Hell
Gate River. About sixty miles below the mouth of the Hell Gate, the
mountains crowd close upon the river, making it very rapid, but further
down it is straighter, deeper, and more sluggish, with large flats on one
or both sides.
The Horse Plains are just below the junction of the Flathead River
with Clarke's Fork, and from this point to Saint Ignatius Mission he
proceeded, passing through the lake and making two portages. He
says that the Hudson Bay Company were formerlyin the habit of carrying up their goods from the foot of Pend d'Oreille Lake to Horse Plains
in large boats, making two portages on the way-one probably at a
point nine miles above the lake, and one at the Cabinet, fifteen miles
above the lake.
Below the lake there is no obstruction to navigation for about thirty
miles, when a fall of six and a half feet is met with. From this fall to
the point nine miles above the lake, he thinks that steamers drawing
from twenty to twenty-four inches could easily ascend, and in high
water the distance might be increased from sixty to one hundred miles,


I




14


COLUMBIA RIVER.


or from a point about ten miles below the mission to the Cabinet, fifteen
miles above the lake. He says that at the falls a lock might easily be
constructed so as to admit of navigation at all seasons.
A At the Cabinet the river is compressed between rocks about one hun.
dred feet in height, and becomes very rapid and narrow, so that the
possibility of passing through with steamboats is uncertain.
At the mission the Fathers being deeply impressed with the unnavigability and dangers of the river below, and having an eye to his safety,
refused to let Dr. Suckley have a canoe or an Indian guide, and so he
did not examine the river from this point to its junction with the Columbia. He says, however, that from what information he could gather, he
might have descended the river, proceeding cautiously and making portages, though the Indians were not in the habit of going by that route.
This is probably the worst portion of the river for purposes of navigation.
The doctor proceeded overland to Fort Colville and embarked on the
Columbia below the falls, and on the 6th day of December reached Vancouver, having gone all the way by water except such portages as were
necessary.
I have never seen Dr. Suckley7s narrative of his trip; it is condensed
about as above in Governor Stevens' Pacific Railroad report.
Clarke's Fork in its upper portions drains a very beautiful and remarkable country-that lying between the Rocky Mountains proper and the
spur known as the Bitter Root and Coeur d'Alene Mountains. This great
basin for which I would suggest the name of "Missoula Basin," is probably formed almost entirely by the erosion of the Great Rocky Mountain
Plateau. The Rocky Mountain chain, extending to the northwestward
through Wyoming, branches in the latitude of about 45~ 30'; one branch
extending to the east and northeast for about 90 miles; the other branlch
stretches to the west and northwest about 35 miles; the two branches
then continue in about the same general direction to the northwest until
beyond the boundary line, where they are about 135 miles apart. At
about the 53d degree of latitude they come together again in the region
separating the waters of the Columbia and Fraser Rivers. The western
backbone of the Rocky Mountains is known by different names in different parts of its extent. The southern portion is called the Bitter Root
Mountains; then comes the Coeur d'Alene Mountains in the vicinity of
Clarke's Fork, and the Cabinet Mountains forming the dividing ridge
between this river and the Kootenay. Still further north it is the Selkirk Range separating the Kootenay from the Columbia, and extending
along the Columbia and Canoe rivers until, at the headwaters of the
latter, it merges with the main backbone.
The main range of the Rocky Mountains, which, between the sources
of Snake River and the Three Forks of the Missouri, has a high altitude, and continues to be elevated along the region where the Jefferson
Fork has its source, begins to fall soon after it branches to the east.




COLUMBIA RIVER.


15


The divide, from this point, makes a great bend to the east and then a
return bend to the west, forming nearly a semicircle, from which flow
streams to Clarke's Fork. The semicircle commences at the Big Hole
Prairie, where you pass from the Bitter Root River to the upper tribntaries of Wisdom River, and may be said to end at the gates of Sun
River. Its radius is eighty miles and its periphery one hundred miles,
the center being near the junction of Hell Gate and Bitter Root rivers.
Through this entire distance the whole chain is broken down, affording great numbers of passes, all of them having an altitude not far from
6,000 feet above the sea. Going north from the gates of Sun River
the mountains rise in elevation, so that when we come to our boundary
parallel the heights of the passes exceed 7,000 feet above the sea..
The country lying between the two great backbones of the Rocky
Mountains, and especially that beautiful region whose streams, flowing
from the great mountainous semicircle above mentioned, pass through
a delightful grazing and arable country and find their confluence in the
Bitter Root or Missoula River, has been ably described in the Pacific
Railroad reports of Governor Stevens. As these reports are out of
print and very difficult to be procured, I give the description of the
country as published in these reports, only leaving out some unimportant details of the surveys and making some slight changes and additions. From the Big Hole Prairie on the south the Bitter Root River
flows due north; it has a branch from the southwest known as Nez Perc6
Creek, up which goes a trail much used by Indians and voyageurs passing to the Nez Perc6 country and Walla Walla. This is now known as
the Elk City trail. The Bitter Root Valley above Hell Gate River is
about eighty miles long and from three to ten in width, having a direction north and south from the sources of Bitter Root River to its junction with the Hell Gate. Besides the outlet above mentioned to the
Clearwater and Walla Walla countries, which is the most difficult, it
has an excellent natural wagon-road communication at its aead by the
Big Itole Pass to Jefferson Fork, Fort Hall, and other points southward, as well as by the Hell Gate routes to the eastward. From the
lower end of the valley it is believed that the river is, or can be made,
navigable for small steamers, for long distances at least, thus affording
an easy outlet for its products in the natural direction. This refers to
that portion of the river now called the Missoula. Hell Gate is the
debouche of'all the considerable streams which unite with the Bitter
Root eighty-five miles below its source at the Big Hole divide. The
distance from Hell Gate to its junction with the Bitter Root is fifteen
miles. It must not be understood by the term Hell Gate that here
is a narrow passage, with perpendicular bluffs; on the contrary, it is
a wide, open, and easy pass, in no case being less than a half mile wide,
and the banks not subject to overflow at all. Here the Big Blackfoot
joins the Hell Gate River.
The Iell Gate itself drains the semicircle of the Rocky Mountains




16


COLUMBIA RIVER.


from parallel 45~ 45' to parallel 46~ 30', a distance on the divide of eighty
miles. The main tributary stream of the Hell Gate pursues nearly a
northerly course for sixty-five miles, then receives the waters of the
Little Blackfoot River, and continuing the general direction north
fifty degrees west for forty-eight miles, receives the waters of the
Big Blackfoot. The upper waters of this river, now known as Deer
Lodge River, connect with the Wisdom River over a low and easy
divide, over which the Northern Pacific Railroad is now being built.
Moving down this valley for fifteen miles, we come to a most beautiful
prairie, known as the Deer Lodge, a great resort for game and a favorite
resting-place for the Indians; mild through the winter and affording inexhaustable grass the year round. The remarkable Boiling Springs are
in this prairie, which is watered by many streams, those coming from
the east having their sources in the Rocky Mountain divide, and those
coming from the west in the low, rolling, open country between the
Deer Lodge and Bitter Root rivers.
The Little Blackfoot is one of the most important streams in the line
of communication through this whole mountain region; it has an open,
well-grassed and arable valley, with sweet cottonwood on the stream
and pine generally on the slopes of the hills; but the forests are quite
open, and both on the northern and southern sides there is much prairie country. The divides between the Little and Big Blackfoot, as well
as between the former and the tributaries to the south, are low, grassed,
and much of them arable. The Little Blackfoot River furnishes two
outlets to the country to the east, by the southern and middle branches
of Prickly Pear Creek. There is another tributary of the Little Blackfoot which may furnish a good pass to the plains of the Missouri; it
comes in a little way above its junction with the Hell Gate. Passing
down hell Gate River from its junction with the Little Blackfoot, we
comine to several streams flowing in from the south, the principal ones
being Flint and Stony Creeks. On these are prairies as large as the
Deer Lodge prairie, and, in fact, the whole country between the Deer
Lodge and Bitter Root consists much more of prairie than of forest
land.
The Hell Gate River is thus seen to be one hundred and thirty miles
long, draining the broad and fertile Deer Lodge prairie, which is estimated to contain eight hundred square miles of arable land. Then,
taking a direction more transverse to the mountains, its valley continues fromn two to five miles wide until its junction with the Big Blackfoot
at Hell Gate, after which it widens out to unite with the valley of the
Bitter Root. On this part of it there are at least one hundred and fifty
square miles of fine arable land in the valley, and much grazing prairie
on the adjoining hills. Around the Little Blackfoot most of the country
is a hilly prairie, suitable for grazing, while in the immediate valley is
sufficient arable land for the subsistence of a population engaged in
pastoral pursuits.




COLUMBIA RIVER.


17


The Big Blackfoot drains the semicircle from the Hell Gate Pass to
somewhat north of the Gate of Sun River, the main stream flowing
from the mountains at Cadotte's and Lewis and Clarke's Passes. This
stream furnishes at least four passes to the Missouri, two of which were
carefully examined in the course of the explorations. The river has a
general course a little south of west, winding considerably in some
parts, but the length of its valley is about seventy-five miles and varying from half a mile to twelve miles in width. Neither this nor the Hell
Gate can be considered navigable above their junction. Its greatest rise
and fall is six feet. On the 18th of July, 1855, its water-level was from
eight to twelve inches above low-water mark and five feet below highwater mark. All these streams, together with the Bitter Root River,
constitute a system of waters flowing from the semicircle, uniting opposite Hell Gate, and pursuing a general northwest course to their junction with the Flathead River, forming Clarke's Fork. That portion of
the river from the junction of the Bitter Root and Hell Gate rivers to
the junction with the Flathead is now generally known as the MissoLla
River. The Flathead, coming in from the north, drains nearly as large
an extent and as fine a country as the Missoula. These two systems of
waters are separated by a low mountain-spur, which is generally well
timbered and well watered and a large portion of the land arabel.
Passing from the Missoula to the Flathead River, we cross over this
spur by a low divide, going through the Coriacan defile and coming on
the waters of Jocko River. The height of this divide above the Hell
Gate is 560 feet, and above the Flathead River at the mouth of the
Jocko is 650 feet. From this divide a view of surpassing beauty is presented to the beholder as he looks to the northward. He sees before
him an extraordinarily well-grassed, well-watered, and inviting country.
On the east are the divides, clothed with pine, separating the Jocko and
its tributaries from the streams flowing into the Big Blackfoot and into
Flathead Lake. To the north the Flathead Lake, twenty-five miles long
and six miles wide, is spread out, with extensive prairies beyond, and
on the west, sloping back from the banks of the Flathead River, a
mingled prairie and forest country is seen. Here, in a compact body, is
one of the most promising countries in this whole region, having at
least 2,000 square miles of arable land. It is now the Flathead Indian
Reservation. Above the lake the Flathead River is formed by the
waters of three streams. Below the lake the river follows its windings
some fifty miles to its junction with the Missoula, where the united
streams assume the name of Clarke's Fork. It is from 100 to 200 yards
wide and so deep as to be fordable with difficulty at low-water, its
depth being three feet at the shallowest places. Its current is rapid,
and there is a fall of fifteen feet five miles below the lake. About
eighteen miles below the lake it receives a considerable stream from the
northwest, called Hot Spring Creek, in the valley of which there is a
large extent of fine land. Sixteen miles further to the south it receives
S. Ex. 186 —3




18


COLUMBIA RIVER.


Jocko River from the southeast, when it turns abruptly to the northwest
and in nineteen miles joins with the Missoula. The Flathead River, by
passing the rapids and falls below the lake with a short canal, gives a
navigable stretch of at least seventy-five miles to the head of Flathead
Lake.
The lower portions of Clarke's Fork have been already mentioned.
Above the Cabinet (fifteen miles above Pend d'Oreille aake), the river
would be excellent for rafting purposes. Its greatest rise and fall is
fifteen feet. The valley of Clarke's Fork is generally a wide, arable,
and inviting settlement, though much of it is wooded. The prairies occupy but an inconsiderable portion of its valley and the surrounding
country, yet there is no deficiency of grass. On the river are several
celebrated wintering-places for Indian horses, as Horse Plains, Thompson's Prairie, and the country about Pelnd d'Oreille Lake.
The passes which lead from this Missoula basin to the Great Plain of
the Columbia are that crossed by the Southern Nez Perce trail, now
known as the Elk City trail, leading from the upper waters of the Bitter
Root; the Lo Lo pass crossed by the northern Nez Perc6 trail, pursued
by Lewis and Clarke in their great explorations, and now known as the
Lou Lou trail; the Cceur d'Alene pass, over which the Mullan road now
goes; and the pass by way of Clarke's Fork.
The Southern Nez Perce trail goes up the southwest fork of the Bitter
Root (Nez Perc6 Creek), and, crossing a dividing ridge, winds about over
the summit of the high and rugged mountains separating the Kooskooskia from the Salmon River, taking a very circuitous course to the junction of the main forks of the Kooskooskia. Elevation of the pass, about
7,600 feet. This is a mere Indian trail which avoids the (lensely-wooded
valleys and goes over the mountain summits, where the elevation prevents the growth of trees and substitutes a growth of grass. Should it
be found practicable to cut a road down the valley of the Kooskooskia
or Clearwater, the divide between it and the Bitter Root is still nearly
7,000 feet in altitude.
The Lou Lou trail is in character much the same, but its course is more
direct. It passes up the valley of the Lou Lou fork of the Bitter Boot,
and, crossing to a branch of the Kooskooskia, winds along the heads of
branches flowing into the main streams of this river till it comes out on
the Great Plain at the same place as the southern trail. The mountain
traveling required in crossing by the southern trail is about 138 miles,
and by the northern trail is about 120 miles.
Between these two trails there are undoubtedly passes across the
mountains much lower, but they are blocked up with fallen timber and
rendered almost inaccessible on account of this and the steep, narrow
valleys. It is claimed that a practicable railroad route exists by a pass
called the Ska-ka-ho, or Skal-ka-ho Pass, which leaves the Bitter Root
Valley nearly at its head.
The Coeur dlA6lne pass, now occupied by the Mullan road, goes from




COLUMBIA RIVER.


19


the east up the St. Regis Borgia River, crosses a divide 5,090 feet above
the sea, and descends to Coeur d'Alene Lake by way of the Cceur d'Alene
River. It is too well known to need any description.
The pass by way of Clarke's Fork crosses by the Jocko cut-off from
the Missoula to the Flathead River, using the Coriacan defile, and keeps
on down the Flathead River and Clarke's Fork and around Pend
d'Oreille Lake. This is the route adopted by the Northern Pacific Railroad, which continues on up Hell Gate and Deer Lodge rivers and
crosses to the Big Hole, or Wisdom River, by the Deer Lodge pass.
From the divide of the Rocky Mountains to the divide of the Bitter
Root Mountains there is this intermediate region or Missoula Basin,
over one-third of which is a cultivable area, and a large portion of it
is a prairie country, instead of a wooded or mountain country. The
following estimate gives the amount of arable land as far as existing
information allowed it to be computed (1855):
In the region watered by the Missoula and the Bitter Root and their
tributaries, not including Hell Gate, 3,000 square miles; in that watered
by the Hell Gate and its tributaries, 2,500 square miles; in that watered
by the Big Blackfoot and its tributaries, 1,300 square miles. The country
watered by the Flathead River down to its junction with the Missoula,
and thence down Clarke's Fork to the Cabinet, has a prairie region of
2,500 square miles. The country watered by the Kootenay has 2,000
square miles of prairie. Thus we have, in round numbers, 11,200 square
miles of arable and prairie land.
Later determinations, based upon the land-office surveys indicate
that this is not an overestimate.
Governor Stevens says that the timber land will be found unquestionably better than the prairie land; that it will not be in the immediate
bottom or valley of the rivers that farmers will find their best locations,
but on the smaller tributaries some few miles above their junction with
the main stream. The observing and thinking man will be astonished
at the conclusions which he will reach in regard to the agricultural advantages of this country. As soon as the railroads reach it and proper
facilities for transportation are afforded, it will establish its superiority
as an agricultural region.
THE KOOTENAY RIVER.
About twenty-five miles above the boundary there comes into the
Columbia from the east the Kootenay River. The lower part of this
river is unfit for navigation on account of rapids and falls, but if a short
portage is made around this bad portion of the river a navigable portion
is reached which is probably about 300 miles in extent.
The Kootenay rises near the fifty-first parallel of latitude, runs south
to near the forty-eighth, then north and west, reaching the Columbia at
about 49'3  north latitude. Its course is generally through a mountainous timbered country, but with belts and sections of rich agricultural




20


COLUMBIA RIVER.


and grazing land. This country is known to be very rich in the pre.
cious metals, for the Kootenay and nearly all the streams flowing into it
are gold-bearing, some of them being very rich.
Lack of public means of transportation and the difficulties and expense of prospecting have for many years deterred prospectors and
miners from carrying on their work in these regions. With easy and
cheap lines of transportation into the country I believe that gold and
silver mining would, and should, revive and become a matter of great
importance.
BELOW LITTLE DALLES.
From the Little Dalles to Kettle Falls the cafon of the Columbia is
more open and much good bottom land exists along the river. In some
places the hills are timberless and covered with bunch grass, and have
been used for many years by the Indians of the vicinity as winter pasturage grounds for their herds of ponies. The timber along this portion
of the river is not very good, being mostly bull and black pine of small
size. There are some good tracts of fine timber scattered here and there,
and away from the river it becomes better.
There are several good-paying gold-bearing bars along the river, especially Six-mile and Twelve-mile Bars, each of which has a wagon road
leading to it from Echo Valley. The hills bordering the river are low
and have an abundant depth of rich, black soil, and are undoubtedly
capable of cultivation, and will be occupied and cultivated as soon as
the more accessible bottom lands are taken up.
This remark holds good for the greater portion of the country between
the Columbia on the west and the Pend d'Oreille on the east. Settlers
will not go to the trouble of clearing off land when they can find it already fit for the plow; but land of this latter kind will not last forever;
when it is gone they will have to take to the woods.
Just above Kettle Falls, on the left bank of the river, lies the valley
in which the old Hudson Bay Company establishment is located. This
is a fine, low-lying, fertile valley, two miles long and one mile wide, and
at the northern end of it is the old fort occupied by the British boundary
commissioners for two winters of the years during which they were engaged on their survey. These buildings are in a good state of preservation, and are occupied as dwellings and stores. Two traders, with quite
large stocks of goods, seem to find considerable business here in trading
with settlers, Chinamen, and Indians. Just across the river from the
old British fort, in the Colville Indian Reservation, there is a large tract
of fine arable land, some of which lies low, near the river, and some on
benches and rolling hills further away. Throughout this Colville Indian
Reservation there is an immense amount of as fine agricultu al and grazing land as can be found anywhere in the Territory.
By far the greater proportion of the Indians for whom this reservation
was set aside do not live on it, but live in the Colville and other valleys,




COLUMBIA RIVER.                     21
where they have taken and claim the choicest portions for themselves.
They thus act as a hinderance to the settlement of the country outside of
their reservation, at the same time holding their reservation and keeping
settlers away from it. Either they should be compelled to vacate their
lands held outside the reservation and remove to it, or they should relinquish their reservation and allow it to be thrown open to settlement.
By far the best way to settle the question is to give them complete and
inalienable titles to such homesteads as they may choose to select, either
on the reservation or off, and then throw open the reservation to settlement. At the same time all male Indians over twenty-one years of
age should be made full citizens. As the lands outside the reserve
have been ordered to be surveyed and subdivided, it is highly probable
that the question will soon be settled by the Indians being removed to
their reservation and made to reside upon it, unless the land in severalty plan is adopted.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF COUNTRY ABOUT FORT COLVILLE-THE
COLVILLE VALLEY.
The Colville Valley, one of the pleasantest and finest valleys to be
found anywhere in the Northwest, has been retarded in its settlement
and advancement many years by the fact that it is occupied and the
lands held in large quantities by Indians and half-breed descendants of
the old Hudson Bay fur-traders. These people, owing to the way they
have been treated and the insecure tenure on which they hold their
lands, are shiftless and unprogressive, make no effort to improve and
beautify, and are a stumbling-block in the way of civilization. When
the land is surveyed and can be taken up according to the laws of the
country, and titles be obtained, settlers will assuredly flock into the
country, and Colville Valley will take the high rank that it deserves
to hold among the most productive, pleasant, and beautiful regions of
the earth.
An accumulation of drift and dense growth of underbrush in and
along the lower portion of the Colville River has caused it during the
higher stages of water to overflow its banks and inundate large areas
of this valley. A small expense would remove all this obstruction and
double the agricultural area of the valley, at the same time rendering
it more healthy.
Fort Colville and the town of Colville are situated about fifteen miles
from the Columbia, in the valley of Mill Creek, which is a branch of
Colville River.
To the east of Fort Colville the hills and mountains commence, and
stretch over to the Pend d'Oreille River, with here and there an attractive valley. In this direction trails lead to different points on the latter
river, especially to the Calispell Lake and Mission.
The mountains are not high, are timbered, and abound in game. To
the north of Fort Colville there is a pretty valley, called Echo Valley,


t




22


COLUMBIA RIVER.


an offshoot from Mill Creek Valley. It is bounded on the east by the
same timbered mountains that lie east of Colville, and on the west by
a low range of hills, partly timbered and partly covered with bunch
grass; through it are one or more gaps leading to the Columbia River.
Through this valley the road goes to the Little Dalles. Two roads go
from Fort Colville towards the west, one down Mill Creek through
Spanish Prairie, joining the other, which goes direct to the Colville
River at the mouth of Mill Creek; hence they keep on together until
just beyond the Catholic Mission, where they divide, one going to
Rickey's Landing, below Grand Rapids, and on down the Columbia, one
to Kettle Falls, and one to the old British Commission Fort Colville.
The country about the Colville River for the last few miles of its
course is sandy and not fit for cultivation except in a few spots. To the
south of Fort Colville the regular mail road leads to Fool's Prairie; here
it branches, one branch going to Walker's Prairie and the Lower Spokane bridge, and one being the new military road to Spokane Falls.
Between the Colville Eiver and the Columbia the mountains are rather
high, and are densely covered with timber as far as could be seen.
KETTLE FALLS.
Kettle Falls, the Chaudibre Falls of the early Canadian voyageurs
and the " Sometknu Falls " of the Indians, are situated about four miles
above the mouth of the Colville River, sixteen miles from Fort Colville,
and about 711 miles up the Columbia from its mouth. They take their
name from the fact that the falling waters converge and give the pool
below the appearance of a huge boiling cauldron. They are the most
complete and total obstruction to navigation met with on the Columbia,
the perpendicular fall being about twenty-five feet at low water, divided
into the upper fall of fifteen feet, and the lower one of ten feet, the two
falls being within a few rods of each other.
The channel is very much contracted by the projecting rocks and
islands as shown in the sketch of the falls accompanying this report.
If at any time in the future it should become necessary to improve or
to discuss the improvement of these falls to give navigation around
them, I would suggest a plan by which I think that it could be done at
a comparatively small expense, owing to the peculiar conformation of
the shores and islands.
A glance at the accompanying map of the falls will show that a large
island lies near and parallel with the left bank. There is a channel between this island and the left bank, in which the main fall between the
island and the right bank is distributed over the entire distance. This
channel has at present some rocks in it which could be removed without difficulty, and has a good entrance at the upper end. Below the
island is a projecting point of rock just about at the level of the highest
water. Through this point a channel could be cut and in it a lock
placed, the material taken from the channel being placed in the inter



Iasi1


Of the

S3cali


SEN. EX. BOO. No.

iCONG.








I 881


COL UA-IS /RI/VLA
aScale


SEtN4 EX. DOC. NoJ~. l0,Ist SESS., 47th CONG.








COLUMBIA RIVER.


23


val between the island and projecting point, forming thus a continuous
channel for a canal from the quiet waters above to the quiet waters below the falls. But Grand Rapids, another serious obstruction to navigation, lies only about seven miles below Kettle Falls, and no scheme
for giving navigation around Kettle Falls would ever be entertained
which did not contemplate also giving it around Grand Rapids. These
GRAND RAPIDS
present very much the same appearance as the cascades where the
Columbia breaks through the Cascade Mountains. Many small black
islands and points of bed-rock arise, between and around which the
waters surge and toss themselves into foam, descending in a distance of
about one mile a total fall of probably twenty feet.
On the right bank of the river at these falls the mountains rise rather
abruptly away from the river, while along the left bank is a large, fine,
open flat, about one hundred and fifty feet above the river, composed
of gravel and alluvium, resting on the rock at the level of the bed of
the river. This flat, which is a true river terrace, has very steep sides
towards the river, and I believe that any plan to give navigation around
these rapids would involve cutting a canal through this terrace and the
underlying bed-rock-a very expensive undertaking.
If the time ever comes that commerce shall demand navigation around
these two obstructions of Grand Rapids and Kettle Falls, the method
b5y boat railway would probably be the best one to adopt. The conformation of the ground is well suited for this purpose.
KETTLE RIVER.
This river, which is put down on nearly all maps as the " Ne-hoi-alpit-qua" River, is known to all white people in the upper country as the
Kettle River, in consequence of which, I suppose, this unpoetical name
must be adopted. This river rises within a few miles of the Okinakane,
and flows in a generally easterly course, emptying into the Columbia
just above Kettle Falls and nearly opposite old Fort Colville. I was
informed that much good countrylies along this river, suitable for agricultural and grazing purposes, and that large tracts of fine timber,
cedar, fir, and pine, exist in its vicinity.
As it is highly probable that in the future a line of railroad will be
located along this river, I will give the words of Governor Stevens, in
describing General (then Captain) McClellan's exploration of it in 1853,
taken from Pacific Railroad Report:
The country between the Okinakane and the Columbia at Fort Colville, sixty miles
in a direct line across, was traversed by Captain McClellan's party about fifty miles to
the north of the Great Plain. Five miles from the Okinakane, the Ne-hoi-al-pit-qua,
flowing eastward, was reached, the dividing ridge being rolling and grassy, covered
with forest at its summit, which is about 1,500 feet above the Okinakane and 2,647
above the sea, as observed with an aneroid barometer. The valley sloping toward
the east, though narrow, is fertile, with alternations of prairie and forest, while the
hills bordering it are wooded with large trees, mostly on their northern slope.




24                     COLUMBIA RIVER.
CHAPTER II.
GRAND RAPIDS TO THE SPOKANE RIVER.
PREPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY.
Having completed the work assigned me in the country about Fort
Colville, I made preparations for my voyage down the Columbia.
I was fortunate enough to procure from John Rickey, a settler and
trader, who lives at the Grand Rapids, a strongly-built bateau, and
had his assistance in selecting a crew of Indians for the journey. The
bateau was about thirty feet long, four feet wide at the gunwales, and
two feet deep, and is as small a boat as the voyage should ever be attempted in, if it is contemplated to go through all the rapids. My first
lookout had been to secure the services of " Old Pierre Agare" as steersman, and I had to carry on negotiations with him for several days before he finally consented to go. Old Pierre is the only one of the old
Hudson Bay Company's Iroquois voyageurs now left who knows the
river thoroughly at all stages of water, from Colville to its mouth. In
the palmy days of the fur traders, he came with them from Canada, and
made many voyages down and up the Columbia, married and settled at
Colville, and now has a large family of children, grandchildren, and
great grandchildren about him. The old man is seventy years of age,
and hale and hearty, although his eye-sight is somewhat defective,
which is almost a certain accompaniment of old age with an Indian.
The other Indians engaged were Pen-waw, Big Pierre, Little Pierre,
and Joseph. They had never made the trip all the way down the river,
and their minds were full of the dangers and terrors of the great rapids
below, and it was a long time before we could prevail upon them to go,
by promising them a high price and stipulating for their return by rail
and stage. Old Pierre and John BRickey labored and talked with them
long and faithfully to gain their consent, and I am sure that they started
off with as many misgivings about getting safely through as we did
who had to trust our lives to their skill, promptness, and obedience.
When all was ready we entered the boat and took our stations, Old
Pierre in the stern at the steering oar; next our baggage, upon which
I took my station; then came the four Indian oarsmen, and in the bow
Mr. Downing, topographical assistant. Mr. Downing and myself both
worked independently in getting as thorough a knowledge of the river
as possible, he taking the courses with a prismatic compass, and estimating distances by the eye, and sketching in the topographical features
of the adjoining country, while I estimated also the distances to marked
points, and paid particular attention to the bed of the river, sounding
wherever there were any indications of shallowness.
Each evening we compared notes as to distances, and we found them
to come out very well together, the greatest difference being 6| miles




COLUMBIA RIVER.                          25
in a day's run of 644 miles. Some days they were identical. The total
distance from our starting point, just below Grand Rapids, to Ainsworth,
at the mouth of Snake River, was estimated by Mr. Downing to be
363.25 miles, and by myself to be 350 miles. His distances were obtained chiefly by estimating how far it was to some marked point ahead,
and correcting it when the point was reached; mine by the time required to pass over the distances, in which the elements considered
were the swiftness of the current and the labor of the oarsmen.
The following are the distances, as estimated for each day's run by
Mr. Downing and myself:
Days.                         Downing. Symons.
Miles.  Miles.
First..........................................................................  46.25  42. 00
Second............................................................  8. 50  8.50
Third.........................................................................  22. 75  23.50
Fourth-........................................................................  64. 25  57. 50
Fifth...................................................................  34. 60  34. 00
Sixth.................... -... -  --- -- ------—... --- —.............. ----------- 56. 25  50.00
Seventh....................................................................... ------------------------------------— 58.25 62.50
Eighth.................................................................  57.00  56  00
Ninth.........................................................................   15.75  16.00
Total...................................................................  363. 25  350.00
As a general thing, it was deemed best to use the greater estimate of
the day's run in plotting the notes, and the final distance adopted was
365.5 miles.
GRAND RAPIDS TO SPOKANE RIVER.
September 29, 1881, 9:40 a. in.-Everything being in readiness, we
pushed off, Rickey giving us his last words of advice, and the Indians,
their squaws, and friends, keeping up a chaffing sort of conversation,
in which they were no doubt encouraging each other to be of good cheer.
Three miles below we came to a collection of black-rock islands in the
middle of the river. The islands are apparently of black basalt, and
rise from thirty to fifty feet above the water at the present stage, and
have a great deal of drift-wood upon their tops, and lodged in the crevices of their sides. To all appearances there is a channel on both sides
of the rocks. We took the one toward the left bank, which I think is
much the better. On account of the contraction caused by these islands
there is quite a strong rapid here, which, however, would offer no obstacle to a good steamer. It is altogether probable that in higher stages
of water the current becomes stronger, and at highest water an ordinary steamer might have some difficulty in getting through.
About nine miles further down we passed by a small village of Sans
Poil Indians, on the right bank of the river. Opposite this village the
river is quite shallow, the bottom covered with large gravel and bowlders, which were plainly seen from the boat. The depth is about six feet
along the middle of the stream, and as the water is considerably above
extreme low water, this depth would probably be decreased to four, and
S. Ex. 186-4




26


COLUMBIA RIVER.


may be to three feet at lowest stage. There appeared some evidences
of the depth being somewhat greater toward the right bank, but of
this I am not certain.
Some distance below we pushed through a portion of the river containing a number of rocky island points, sunken rocks, and points jutting out from shore. Among these rocks are several sharp* little ripples with strong eddies, but nothing that can be considered as an obstruction to navigation.
At one p. m., at a distance of twenty and one-fourth miles from Rickey's
Landing, we came to Turtle Rapids, which result from the presence in
the stream of a number of large and small black-looking bed-rock
islands. The main and best channel passes about in the center of the
stream betwe&n the islands. The water is quite strong and rapid, but
I do not consider that a steamer would have great difficulty in stemming the current at any stage of water.
In running through, care would have to be taken to avoid sunken
rocks.
About three miles further, after passing a large, promising-looking bar,
on which a number of Chinamen were engaged in mining, we came to
another rapid, of minor importance, however, caused by a point of rock
jutting well out into the stream from the left bank.
Six and one-half miles on and we came to Rogers' Bar. Both above
and below this bar there are quite strong ripples, the one just above
being quite shallow, with, however, sufficient water for purposes of navigation.
Four and one-half miles further on we came to what is called the
Elbow Bend of the river. Here are some bed-rock islands with a gravelbar island near the right bank, and jutting points of rock below, also
from the right bank. The channel is near the left bank all the way,
with a rather strong ripple near the rock islands.
After four miles further traveling we passed some more bad water,
swift and strong, with rocks near the left bank, offering, however, no
obstruction to navigation; and at 4:40 we went into camp on the right
bank of the river, where a pretty stream comes down, having made a
distance of forty-seven and three-fourths miles during the day.
September 30, 7:28 a. m.-Left camp, and four miles below passed a
very rugged portion of the left bank of the river. Among the rocks was
one resembling very much a bishop's mitre, being conical and split
down the center. I have called it Mitre Rock.
At 9:10, four and a half miles further on, we entered the mouth of
Spokane River, and made camp, having passed through the Spokane
Rapids, which are situated about a half mile above the mouth of the
Spokane.
These rapids are the most serious obstructions to navigation met with
since leaving Grand Rapids.
The river runs through a narrow channel between its two banks,




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COLUMBIA RIVER.


27


which are contracted and covered with great bowlders and massive
rocks. The space free from rocks is narrow, and through it the water
rushes with great velocity and power. I doubt very much if any river
boat has been built in this western country that can ascend these rapids
without lining over. The rapids are very short, and, with proper appliances, a boat could be easily lined over.
I think it well to consider the subject of the improvement of these
Spokane Rapids, inasmuch as they are the only real obstruction to navigation for a long distance above and below them, and as their improvement would be comparatively inexpensive. Most of the bowlders forming the obstruction could be handled by an ordinary steam derrick, and
removed by this means from their present position. During low water
they could all be reached and taken away. No bed-rock appears that I
could see. The water above the rapids is a pool, quiet, deep, and wide,
which would easily stand all the quickening required to distribute the
fall that now takes place through the rapids over a sufficient length of
river to render it ascendable by river steamers.
For the first thirty miles below Grand Rapids, until Rogers' Bar is
reached, there is considerable bottom land along the Columbia, much
more than is generally believed, and on both sides of the river are
benches, some of them containing hundreds of acres, perhaps thousands, of the very finest land, well watered and covered with bunchgrass and scattering belts of timber.
The Indians told me that back from the Columbia, between it and the
Colville River, were many fertile and beautiful prairies.
Below Rogers' Bar the cafion narrows and the mountains close in and
the river is crooked, with very little bottom land until within a few miles
of the Spokane, when it becomes more open. Throughout this portion,
the hills, bottom lands, and mountains are well covered with fine open
tinmber and very little underbrush. Except where it breaks through the
Cascade Mountains, this is the most beautiful portion of the Columbia
within our territory.
Many beautiful and pleasant homes are certain at no very distant day
to adorn its banks, and the demands of advancing civilization will certainly require that within a few years steamers should navigate its
waters, communicating with railways reaching it near the mouths of
the Colville and Spokane rivers. It is to be hoped that, in the years
to come, this portion may become a part of a continuously navigable
river from Grand Rapids to the sea.
There are quite a number of Chinamen engaged in mining on the river
bars. Many bars have been worked and abandoned, and others have
not been worked, owing to the difficulty of getting water to them. In
some instances the Chinamen have put in flumes several miles in length
and constructed quite extensive works to obtain the precious metal
from the gravel and sand. In the construction of these works they
often display much ingenuity and knowledge of hydraulics. In one




28


COLUMBIA RIVER.


place just below the Spokane River they have taken the water from
Hawk Creek and conducted it about three miles in ditches and wooden
flumes made of whip-sawed lumber, and have taken it to a large barisland in the river, crossing the intervening channel by means of an
inverted siphon, also made of whip-sawed lumber.
THE SPOKANE RIVER.
The Spokane River at its mouth is about 200 feet wide, and flows
through a canon very similar to that of the Columbia, and about 2,000
feet below the general level of the plains to the south. It is broken by
many rapids and falls, and is entirely unnavigable. From its mouth
up to Spokane Falls, about seventy miles, this canon is very deep and
difficult to cross or traverse. This river, with that portion of the Columbia from its mouth to the Okinakane, forms the boundary line between
the rich and treeless great Columbia Plain on the south, and the more
rocky, timbered, and mountainous country to the north.
Camip Spokane is situated on a level terrace plateau about one and a
half miles from the mouth of the Spokane, and four hundred feet above
it, on its southern bank. From this plateau it is easy to descend to the
Spokane and Columbia rivers, and to ascend to the great plains to the
south.
The Spokane River, by its situation and characteristics, is bound to
play an important part in the settlement and ultimate well-being of the
whole country within a great distance of it.
At Spokane Falls is a magnificent water-power, one of the finest in
the world, and situated as it is in the midst of a splendid agricultural
country, most of which, however, is treeless, there seems no room to
doubt that it will become a great manufacturing and commercial center.
By means of the river and Cceur dAlfne Lake, and the tributary
streams of the latter, a magnificent and widely-extended area of timberland lying along the Coeur d'Alne and Bitter Root Mountains can be
made to yield its forest covering for transportation by water to Spokane
Falls, there to be manufactured into lumber and distributed throughout
the agricultural lands to the south and west. In return for this lumber
and fuel, these lands will send their wheat to the falls to be manufactured
into flour, and sent from there to the seaboard to be shipped to the markets of the world.
Large portions of the country are better suited for pastoral purposes
than for agricultural, and it is reasonable to expect that here at these
falls will be erected great woolen manufactories, to work up the raw produce of the country into the cloths and blankets required by the inhabitants thereof.
Large quantities of brown hematite iron ore have been found near the
Spokane River below the falls,,and it is known that other iron deposits
lie to the north.




COLUMBIA RIVER.


29


Quantities of flax have been grown the past few years in the country
to the south of Spokane Falls, and it must also be brought to this great
water-power to be manufactured into thread, cloth, &c., and the seed
into oil.
The number of manufacturing enterprises for which this place seems
adapted is very great. I may enumerate, besides those mentioned
above, the manufacture of all kinds of wooden ware, of agricultural and
farm implements, wagons, carriages, furniture, leather, harness, boots
and shoes, pork, beer, and iron and metal works in great variety. Large
numbers of emigrants have been and are coming into this Spokane
country, lured hither by the fine agricultural prospects, by the abundance of remunerative labor, the prospects of large manufacturing establishments, and the bright mining outlook. This influx of emigrants will
be largely increased as soon as railroads reach the country and render
it cheaper and easier for them to come.
The Spokane, in the upper part of its course, presents the estimable
peculiarity-especially valuable in view of its use as a water-power-of
never freezing.
It seems to be fed by many springs between the falls and Coeur
d'Alne Lake, which have the effect, in the coldest weather, of keeping
the temperature above the freezing point.
Immediately about the falls the soil is not adapted to farming on a
large scale, as it is more or less rocky and gravelly. It is, however, on
this account, particularly well fitted for building purposes.
The total fall of the river is about one hundred and thirty feet, divided
into several plunges and rapids, and broken by islands and rocks, and
so situated that its entire force can be controlled and brought into use.
It would seem as if nature could not have done more to make this a
great manufacturing and commercial center, and a beautiful, healthy,
and attractive place.
My duties required me to remain several days about Camp Spokane,
doing work and making examinations required by the department commander, among which were the location of a bridge over the Spokane
River and a ferry over the Columbia, the object being to furnish facilities for the troops to cross these rivers and penetrate into the Indian
country. The locations selected are marked on the map of the portion
of the river about the mouth of the Spokane.
On account of the swiftness and turbulence of the water below, it was
necessary to locate the ferry above the Spokane Rapids. Estimates for
the bridge were sent in, and the troops have been ordered to build it.




30                     COLUMBIA RIVER.
CHAPTER III.
COLUMBIA RIVER, FROM THE SPOKANE RIVER TO LAKE CHELAN.
Having finished work about Camp Spokane on October 3, at 11:45 a.
m. we pushed out from the Spokane River and took our course down the
Columbia. At 12:15 we had run the five miles to the mouth of Hawk
Creek, and the ranch and trading post of William Covington, generally
known as " Virginia Bill." Hawk Creek heads at Cottonwood Springs
on the old White Bluffs road. It is about twenty-five miles long, and
flows for the greater part of the way through an extremely deep and
precipitous cation. Virginia Bill has constructed a wagon-road from
the Great Plain near Cottonwood Springs to his ranch, which is an excellent road, and the best way to reach the Columbia from the upper
plain with which I am familiar. There is an easy grade and a firm soil
all the way, and I believe a practicable railroad route could be laid out
to the river in the vicinity of this road.
The river between the Spokane and Hawk Creek is very swift and
strong, the current running from six to eight miles an hour.
A couple of miles further on we passed the mouth of Welsh Creek, so
named from a settler on its banks in the valley about four or five miles
from the river. Some of the prettiest country in the world is situated
upon Welsh Creek and its branches. There are beautiful little valleys
nestled in among the rolling, timbered hills, and beyond, up on the great
plain, mile after mile of bunch-grass-covered gently-sloping prairie.
The river now becomes very deeply encafioned with steep, rocky, and,
in some cases, perpendicular bluffs, on one or both sides. The cation is
in many places very beautiful; the rocks composing the bluffs are manycolored, black, brown, pink, and white, and have many patches of bright
red and yellow moss. To this must be added the green of the trees, of
which all shades, from the darkest to the brightest, appear; the bright
autumnal tints of the bushes, and beyond, above, and about all, the old
gold of the withered bunch-grass shining in the sunlight.
The rocks take all imaginable forms, showing up as pinnacles, terraces, perpendicular bluffs, devils-slides, and giants' causeways, the
whole forming one of the grandest, lmost beautiful sights in the universe.
The material of which the rock is composed is all apparently of igneous
origin, trachyte and basalt. With this, especially on the north side of
the river, there is a great deal of volcanic tufa in a more or less friable
condition.
About eight miles further on we come to the Whitestone, a noted landmark, consisting of a gigantic grayish-white rock, 500 feet high, standing perpendicularly up from the water, on the left bank of the river, and
being partially detached from the rocks to the rear. It is split down
the middle by some great convulsion. The Indians have a legend concerning this rock, of which the skunk is the hero.




COLUMBIA RIVER.


31


It would seem that in the long ago a skunk, a cayote, and a rattlesnake each had a farm on the top of the Whitestone. These were the
days before the skunk was as odorous as he is now, but was esteemed a
good fellow and pleasant companion by other animals. As in some
other small communities, jealousies, dissensions, and intrigues arose in
this one. The result was that the cayote and rattlesnake took a mnean
advantage of the skunk one night when he was asleep, and threw him
off the rock, away down into the river. He was not drowned, however,
but floated on and on, far away to the south and west, until he came to
the mouth of the river, where lived a great medicine-man and magician.
To him the skunk applied and was fitted out with an apparatus warranted to give immunity from, and conquest over, all his enemies.
Back he journeyed along the river to his old home, where he arrived,
much to the surprise of the cayote and rattlesnake, and commenced to
make it so pleasant for them with his pungent perfumery apparatus,
the gift of the magician, that they soon left him in undisputed possession of his rocky home, which he has maintained ever since.
Opposite the Whitestone comes in Whitestone Creek from the north.
Near here we came to a trading-post, on the left bank of the stream, occupied by a man named Friedlander, who carries on quite a trade with
the Indians and Chinamen along the river. He reaches his place by a
wagon-road from the Great Plain above, and informed me that it is al
excellent road and one of the best ways of getting to the river that
there is. We remained with him until 3:10, inquiring about the country,
the Indians, &c., and at a distance of two miles from his place we reached
Hell Gate. At the head of the rapids a great jutting point sticks out
frotm the left bank, narrowing the channel; below this, in the middle
of the river, is a great rock island, with the channel to the left; below
and nearer the right bank are two other rock islands. These islands
form a partial dam to the water and cause rapids, which commence between the jutting point and the first great island and continue for a
considerable distance below the last rock island. The channel is very
crooked, as will be seen by a glance at the map of this portion of the
river. Although a bad place, it seems to me that a good steamer would
easily ascend the rapids and go through if the proper course was taken.
This course, I should say, would be to hug the north bank until nearly
to the islands, then cross over to the south bank and steam well up to
the jutting point of rocks, and then cross over between this jutting point
and the first islands, and then around the jutting point. The only danger that a steamer would encounter coming down would be that something would happen to the steering-gear.
During a high stage of water the jutting point mentioned above becomes an island, and the currents are changed, and it probably would
be a much worse place to go through than during low and medium
stages.
Three miles below we passed the mouth of the Sans Poil River. This




32


COLUMBIA RIVER.


comes in from the north, rising in the mountains nearly due west of
Kettle Falls, and flows through a region in which there is much good
farming land. This word has been variously spelled, but the above I
believe is correct, as it seems to be a French name applied to the Indians living along its banks, on account either of the scarcity or shortness of their hair and beard, or from the fact that they were very poor
and had no furs to sell to the traders. Old Pierre told me that this latter
was the origin of the word.
After passing through two ripples we went into camp, at 4:30 p. m.,
on the left bank near an immense spring, which came pouring out from
the rocks about fifty feet above the river. This day we made about
twenty-three and a half miles.
Tuesday, October 4, 7:52 a. m., we started again on our trip, having
passed an uncomfortable night on account of the rain, which gave us a
severe wetting. The timber has been getting scarce, and along this
portion of the river very little is seen, except where some breaking
away of the northern bank gives a glimpse of the distant hills, which
are covered with forests.
We row along very quietly and pleasantly, with an occasional ripple
and rock, and now and then a bar-island and rather shallow place in
the river.
10 a. m.-After about eleven miles are passed we come to the mouth
of the Grand Coul6e, which, however, would not have been noticed if
old Pierre had not told us, as it presents the same appearance as the
rest of the left bank, the Coul6e bottom being high above the river.
Six miles further on we came to Monaghan's Rapids.  These are
caused by a number of small rocky islands.  The channel is toward
the left bank. During the early winter of 1879 and '80, James Monaghan, of Colville, one of the most enterprising men of the country, went
from  Colville with some rafts of lumber and supplies to the troops
camped near the Okinakane. On these rocks he struck with some of
his rafts and had great trouble to get off. I have named them for him.
The country here, what we can see of it, presents a very weird, wild
appearance. It breaks away on both sides with white cliffs in the distance, and in the foreground large black rocks, about the size of houses,
scattered here and there over the brown earth, and now and then a
lone, sorrowful-looking pine tree.
These isolated rocks present a very excellent example of the tremendous transporting power of moving ice. They have evidently been
brought down from the upper regions of the river on floating ice, which,
emerging from the caions, has grounded with its immense loads on the
gently-inclined banks of this portion of the river. The rocks are mainly
basalt, of crystalline structure.
About two miles further down we come to another strong ripple,
caused, as before, by rocks in the stream. One of these immense rocks




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SEN. EX. DOC. No. /Rd, Ist SESS, 47th CONG.








COLUMBIA RIVER.                     33
seemed to be nearly spherical and to rest in an apparent state of very
unstable equilibrium. These I have called Equilibrium Rapids.
Six miles further we passed the mouth of the Nespilem River. A
strong ripple exists just above the mouth and a great bar-island
just below. The country here is very much terraced and broken on the
northern side. Down the river further, on the south bank, a large, fine
bench extends along the river for several miles. It is divided into two
or three terraces and covered with bunch-grass.
The river is generally very good until at about eight and a half miles
further we reach Cannon or Mah-kin Rapids, which are nearly a mile
long and very swift. They seem to be caused by a contraction of the
water-way between the rocky banks. The water is very swift, but I
think that at this season a steamer could ascend them. It would be
very difficult, however, and at most seasons it would be necessary to
use a line.
These rapids may be considered as the limit of navigation for a great
part of the year; and a portage road built around the Great Nespilem
Rapids below should embrace these Mah-kin Rapids.
This gives a stretch of river from Grand Rapids to Mah-kin Rapids,
which can, I believe, generally be navigated, the only two obstructions
of note being Spokane Rapids and Hell Gate.
Mah-kin Rapids are the first bad rapids of the Nespilem Canon.
The river i here contracted in width and the banks are steep and rocky.
A little below, the shores are strewn with huge masses of black basaltic rock of all sizes and shapes, and this continues for several miles,
forming a characteristic picture of Columbia River scenery. The complete silence and lifelessness added to the scene makes it exceedingly
wild, almost unearthly. And so we plunge along swiftly through the
rolling water, with huge rocks looming up, now on one side and then
on the other. Every stroke of the oar is bearing us onward, nearer and
nearer, to that portion of our voyage most dreaded, the terrible Kali.
chen Falls and Whirlpool Rapids. We hear the low rumbling of the
water, and see the tops of the huge, half-sunken rocks and the white
foam of the tumbling waters.  For a few moments the rowing ceases,
while brave old Pierre gives his orders to the Indians in their own
tongue.  He knows that everything depends upon his steering and
their rowing or backing at the right moment, with all the strength that
they possess. Years ago he was in a Hudson Bay Company bateau
which capsized in these very rapids, and out of a crew of 16 men 8 perished in the water and on the rocks. The Indians make their preparations for the struggle by stripping off all their superfluous clothing, remoVing their gloves, and each ties a bright-colored handkerchief tightly
about his head; poles and extra oars are laid ready in convenient places
to reach should they become necessary, and then with a shout the Indians seize their oars, and commence laying to them with all their
strength. We are rushing forward at a fearful rate, owing to the comS. Ex. 186  5




34


COLUMBIA RIVER


bined exertions of the Indians and the racing current, and we shudder at
the thought of striking any of the huge black rocks near which we glide.
Now we are fairly in the rapids, and our boat is rushing madly through
the foam and billows; the Indians are shouting at every stroke in their
wild savage glee; it is infectious; we shout too, and feel the wild exultation which comes to men in moments of great excitement and danger. Ugly masses of rock show their heads above the troubled waters
on every side, and sunken rocks are discernible by the action of the
surf. Great billows strike us fore and aft, some falling squarely over
the bows and drenching us to the waist. This is bad enough, but the
worst is yet to come as we draw near with great velocity to a huge
rock which appears dead ahead.
Has old Pierre seen it? The water looks terribly cold as we think of
his failing eyesight. Then an order, a shout, backing on one side and
pulling on the other, and a quick stroke of the steering oar, and the
rock appears on our right hand. Another command, and answering
shout, and the oars bend like willows as the Indians struggle to get the
boat out of the strong eddy into which Pierre had thrown her. Finally
she shoots ahead and passes the rock like a flash, within less than an
oar's length of it, and we shout for joy and breathe freely again. This
eddy becomes in a high stage of water a veritable whirlpool, with the
well at its center many feet in depth. Hence the name of W%4irlpool
Rapids.
For half a mile now the river is comparatively good, and our staunch
crew rest on their oars preparatory to the next struggle, which soon
comes, as some more rocky, foamy rapids are reached. Here the swells
are very high and grand, and our boat at one time seems to stand almost
perpendicularly. Through parts of these rapids the river is very narrow,
from 300 to 400 feet, with perpendicular banks 100 to 200 feet in height.
For about nine miles further the river continues studded with rocks, and
swift, with ripples every mile or so, until we reach Foster Creek Rapids.
Here the rocks become thicker, being generally toward the left bank,
with the channel near the right, and the water fierce and wild. For a
mile more we plunge and toss through the foaming, roaring water,
amid wild yells from our Indian friends, and we emerge from the Foster
Creek Rapids, which appear to be as rough and dangerous as any place
we have yet encountered.
We are now fairly out of the Nespilem Cafon and through all the
Nespilem Rapids, and we certainly feel greatly relieved, and make for
the shore and camp at the mouth of Foster Creek, where some of the
companies of the Second Infantry passed, very uncomfortably, the
winter of 1879-'80.
This portion of the river through which we have come to-day is the
worst otn the whole river, the most complete bar to navigation. From
Mah-kin Rapids to Foster Creek Rapids, a distance of about twentyseven miles, the river is exceedingly rough, with many rapids, rocks, and


*




COLUMBIA RIVER.


35


ripples, and a contracted, crooked channel. I hlad no means of determining the fall of the river in this portion of its course, but it is very
great. A steamer could come down through this stretch of river, but at
considerable risk; I doubt very much if a steamer could get up through
it except at great expense, time, and risk.
Foster Creek is important, as it is along its course that a wagon road
finds an easy descent from the level of the Great Plain to the Columbia,
and by the same route a railroad will be certain, at some future day, to
follow. This day's traveling we made about sixty-three miles.
October 5, we made an early start, and at 8:15 a. m. reached the
Okinakane. I spent considerable time examining the country to the
east of the Okinakane, and found it to consist of a large flat, covered for
the most part with rich bunch grass, and the soil of black alluvial loam,
although there were some patches of sandy, gravelly soil near the Columbia.
This flat embraces about four square miles, and upon the hills and
bluffs to its rear there are indications of fine springs. Water could certainly be easily obtained by digging.
Further away from the river the country rises into bluffs and great
terraces and plateaus, which give the promise of being fine productive
land. There is a great deal of good land along the Okinakane River
and in its vicinity, and good mines are known to exist. Some mines
were discovered, and were claimed and worked, before the reservation
along the river was set apart for Chief Moses and his people. Disputes have arisen between the miners and the Indians in regard to the
right of the former to pursue their work. This has been the subject of
a recent decision at Washington, that those mines which were discovered before the reservation was set apart belong to the discoverers and
owners, who must not be interfered with in working them. At the
mouth of the Okinakane was a camp of Indians, fine fierce-looking bucks
and cleanly-looking squaws. The latter were engaged in working about
the camp, cooking, making moccasins or gloves, or mending clotles,
while the men were either gambling or making arrows and fishingspears.
I went into their camp and tried to get into conversation with them,
but they were very cold and surly and regarded me with suspicion, and
I was reminded of the remarkof Alexander Ross, an early Astorian and
Northwestern fur trader, called forth by a long residence among the
Indians at old Fort Okinakane and throughout the fur regions. He
says:
From Chili to Athabasca, and from Nootka to the Labrador, there is an indescribable coldness about an American savage that checks familiarity. He is a stralnger to
our hopes, our fears, our joys, or our sorrows; his eyes are seldorn moistened by a tear
or his features relaxed by a smile; and whether he basks bleneath a vertical sun on
the burning plains of Amaazonia, or freezes in eternal winter on the ice-bound shores of
the Arctic Ocetan, the same piercing black eyes and stern ilmmobility of countenance
equally set at naught the skill of the physiognomist.




36


COLUMBIA RIVER.


The following extracts are from the volume of Ross Cox, a member of
the first party to visit the Okinakane, and for a long time in charge of
Fort Okinakane:
I had a long summer before me; it is the most idle season of the year; and as it was
intended to rebuild and fortify Okinakane during the vacation, I lost no time in setting the men to work.
The immediate vicinity is poorly furnished with timber, and our wood-cutters were
obliged to proceed some distance up the riverin search of that necessary article, which
was floated down in rafts. We also derived consideralile assistance from the immense
quantities of driftwood which was intercepted in its descent down the Columbia by
the great bend which that river takes above the Okinagan. Many hands made light
work, and our men used such dispatch that before the month of September we had
erected a new dwelling-house for the person in charge, containing four excellent rooms
and a large dining hall, two good houses for the men, and a spacious store for the firs
and merchandise, to which was attached a shop for trading with the natives.
The whole was surrounded by strong palisades fifteen feet high and flanked by two
bastions. Each bastion had in its lower story a light brass four-pounder, and in the
upper, loopholes were left for the use of musketry.
*         *         *                  * **
The climate of Okinagan is highly salubrious. We have for weeks together observed
the blue expanse of heaven unobscured by a single cloud. Rain, too, is very uncommon; but heavy dews fall during the night.
The situation of Okinagan is admirably adapted for a trading town. With fertile
soil, a healthy climate, horses in abundance for land carriage, an opening to the sea
by the Columbia, and a communication to the interior by it and the Okinagan, the
rivers well stocked with fish, and the natives quiet and friendly, it will in my opinion be selected as a spot pre-eminently calculated for the site of a town when civilization (which is at present so rapidly migrating towards the westward) crosses the Rocky
Mountains and reaches the Columbia.
The following extract from   the same book, " Adventures on the Columbia River," is given for the benefit of consumptives and as a hint to
the medical fraternity.   If it does not cure it certainly would be highly
beneficial as a system to bring into general adoption for reasons which
will be palpable to every one who loves not cur dogs.
The Okinagan mnode of curing some of our diseases would probably startle many of
the faculty. The following case in particular passed under my own observation:
One of the proprietors had in the year 1814 taken as a wife a young and beautiful
girl whose father had been one of the early partners, and whose mother was a halfbreed (her grandi.other having been a native of the Cree tribe), so that, although not
a pure white, she was fairer than many who are so called in Europe. He proceeded
with her to Fort George, but the change of climate from the dry and healthy plains of
Forts des Prairies to the gloomy forests and incessant rains on the northwest coast
was too much for her delicate frame, and she fell into a deep consumption. As a last
resource, her husband determined to send her to Okinagan to try the change of air,
and requested me to procure her accommodation at that place for the summer. This
I easily managed. She was accompanied by a younger sister and an old female attendant. She was in fact little more than a skeleton, with scarcely any symptoms of
vitality, and her whole appearance betokened approaching dissolution.
Such was the state of the unfortunate patient, when an old Indian, who had for
some days observed her sitting in the porch door, where she was brought, supported
on pillows, to enjoy the fresh air, called me aside, and told me he had no doubt of being
able to cure her provided I should agree to his plan, but added that he would not give




COLUMBIA RIVER.


37


any explanation of the means he intended to use, for fear we might laugh at him,
unless we consented to adopt them. We accordingly held a consultation, the result
of which was that the Indian should be allowed to follow his own method. It could
not make her worse, and there was a possibility of success.
Having acquainted him with her acquiescence, he immediately commenced operations by seizing an ill-looking, snarling cur dog, which he half strangled, after which
he deliberately cut its throat. He then ripped open the belly and placed the legs and
feet of the patient inside, surrounded by the warm intestines, in which position he
kept them until the carcass became cold. He then took them out and bandaged them
with warm flannel, which he said was " very good."
The following day another dog lost its life, and a similar operation was performed.
This was continued for some time until every ill-disposed cur in the village had disappeared by the throat-cutting knife of our dog-destroying doctor, and we were
obliged to purchase some of a superior breed. While she was undergoing this process,
she took in addition a small quantity of bark daily in a glass of port wine. In the
mean time the swelling gradually decreased, the fingers lost their corpse-like nakedness, the hectic flushes became rarer, and that "most pure spirit of sense," the eyes,
gave evident tokens of returning animation. When her strength permitted, she was
placed on the carriage of a brass field-piece, supported by bolsters, and drawn occasionally a mile or two about the prairie.
The Indian continued at intervals to repeat this strange application until the swelling had entirely disappeared, and enabled her once more to make use of her limbs.
Two-and-thirty dogs lost their lives in bringing about this extraordinary recovery.
She gradually regained possession of her appetite; and when her husband arrived
in the autumn from Fort George, for the purpose of crossing the mountains, she was
strong enough to accompany him. The following summer on my journey across the
continent I met them at Lac la Pluie. She was in the full enjoyment of health.
The following extract from Gov. I. I. Stevens's report of the. exploration of General (then Captain) G. B. McClellan is given as being of
interest in connection with the Okinakane River:
On October 5, 1853, the party proceeded northward from Fort Okinakane, along the
river of that name, and on the 9th reached a point in latitude 49~ 26', about thirteen
miles south of the Great Lake. There is little difficulty in any part of this valley for
road-making, but, as it leads to no pass westward, further exploration was not necessary.
The Hudson Bay trail to Fort Langley, on Fraser's River, leaves it about latitude
49~ across a mountain ridge, to the west fork of the Okinakane, and another between
that and Fraser's River. It is represented by all as barely practicable, and going
directly across the mountains instead of through any pass.
The west fork (the Similkameen),near the confluence, has no valley-running through
an immense ravine, impracticable for any road.,
On October 12, 1853, leaving the Okinakane at the forks, they traveled eastward,
crossing a high ridge to a small river (Kettle River) flowing into the Columbia, opposite Fort Colville, where they arrived on the 18th, ferrying the baggage over in canoes
and swimming the animals safely over. The country traversed since leaving Fort
Okinakane is thus described:
The north bank of the Columbia, between the Methow and Okinakane, is low, sandy,
and barren, but rises into grassy slopes at a few miles distance, which towards their
summits become covered with pine woods.
The forest evidently descends lower towards the north, and with the improving
grass shows the influence of more abundant rains.
After going about twelve miles up the Okinakane, the country gradually improves in
appearance, pines and cotton-woods grow more abundantly, and there is evidently a
large extent both of the valley and rolling hills bordering it capable of cultivation.




38


COLUMBITA RTVER.


At sixty miles, however, lofty wooded hills close in on its banks, and thence to the
forty-ninth parallel it presents little inducement for settlement, though capable of furnishing abundance of excellent timber.
There is a fine fall on the Okinakane, thirty-five miles above its month, of five feet
pitch, and about twenty miles further up, on its west fork, four miles above the junction, another fall of ten feet, supplying abundance of water-power. On the top of
the lofty table of the Great Plain, opposite the mouth of the Okinakane, is a considerable extent of pine woods, several thousand feet above the Columbia, into which
it collll be easily thrown or slid down, as the cliff is almost perpendicular. This is
probably the highest point of the plain, and is the point where a spur appears to cross
the river and to sink into the levelof the plain.
I am strongly of the opinion that at the mouth of the Okinakane there
is bound to be a commercial and manufacturing center at some time in
the future, when the whole country is thrown opento settlement. There
is a great deal of excellent land in its vicinity for agricultural and
grazing purposes, and it is easily reached from any direction.
By striking Foster Creek at its head and following it down, a very
easy and gradual descent is found to the river; thence, keeping along
the left bank of the Columbia over very favorable ground until a point
opposite the Okinakane is reached, is an excellent railroad route. Thence,
if the Okinakane is navigable, steamers could penetrate into the interior, or, if not, a line of railroad could be built along the river, and
a commerce of great extent would grow up as soon as these Indian
reservations are thrown open to the public and settlers discover their
attractions. The fine tracts of timber found along the Okinakane in
its upper parts would furnish one of the most important articles of commerce, being floated down the river to its mouth, there to be manufactured and shipped by water down the river, or by rail, to the people settled on the Great Plain opposite. Opposite the mouth of the Okinakane
the bluffs back away to a considerable distance, and leave near the
river a fine flat containing from three to four square miles. The timber
mentioned by Captain McClellan as covering the bluffs opposite the
mouth of the river is very much exaggerated. Only a small amount
exists on the slopes of the bluffs near the top, and in the gullies near
the top. The appearance from the river is deceptive, and would lead
any one to believe that there was considerable timber there; but personal examinations made by me in 1879 disprove this. There were no
white people living anywhere in the vicinity where I passed.
About nine miles from the Okinakane the Methow RIiver comes in
from the northwest. The country on the right bank of the Columbia
between these two rivers consists of a succession of nearly level benches
or terraces, some having very fertile and rich soil, and others being
composed largely of sand drifts. These benches stretch away from the
river to tlhe timber, which appears on the higher grounds about 6 or 7
miles to the rear.
The Methow River is a stream of considerable size, being fordable
only at the lower stages of water. It shows evidence that during high
water it becomles a terrible torrent-deep, widle, and swift. The country




COLUMBIA RIVER.


39'


in its vicinity is strewn with great bowlders, which extend illto the Columbnia liver, being the principal cause of the Methow Rapids, which
here form an impediment to the navigation of the Columbia. These
rapids are not bad enough to prevent steamers froml going up or down,
at any rate during low and mledium stages of water, although the water
is very swift. It is highly probable that during high water steamers
might not be able to ascend without the use of a line.
The river between the Okinakane and Methow is very good for
steamboating, with the exception perhaps of a bar situated at a bend of
the river about two miles below the Okinakane. Upon this bar tlere.was about seven feet of water when we passed over it, which depth
would probably be reduced to about three or four feet at extreme low
water.
Captain McClellan's report speaks of the Methow in this faslhiomn:
The Methow River, which was explored nearly to its sources, has a considerable
extent of good agricultural and grazing land in its upper valley. Its lower part;, fir
twenty miles up, is henumed in by high wooded hills; above this, they become tlmore
rolling and grassy, and its banks are bordered by level wide terraces of better soil
tlhan those on the Yakima.
I have understood that quite a nulnber of Indians live in the Upper
Methow Valley.
After two and a half hours more of pleasant traveling through a
good river, with a swift and even current, and here:and there a little
ripple and sand-bar island, we reached the river landing opl)osite Lake
Chelan, and made camlllp among our old friends the Chelan Indianls,
whose principal village is located here. In-no-mlo-setch-a, the chief, is
al old man, and is one of the best Indians that it has ever been my lot
to meet. The highest character is given him by all who know him,
for honesty, sobriety, entire trustworthiness, and a cheerfil desire to
give everybody all the assistance in his power. Ile was al)senlt wlhen
we arrived, but soon returned. His oldest son, "Bill," however, mlet
us with apparent joy and did all he could to make us comlfortable. lle
had been unfortunate of late in getting into a fight with another In(linl,
who had cut his nose almost completely off his face. Ite had it all
plastered up with some kind of pitch ointment that the Indians prepared, but he will be a noseless Indian for the remainder of his life.
Chelan Creek comes into the Columbia about one mile below the Indian village; it is about two and a half miles long from tile lake to its
nmouth, in which distance it has a fall of about 250 feet.
I first visited Lake Chelan in the summer of 1879, when seLarching
for a site for a military post in its vicinity. Colonel Merriam of the
Second Infantry, and I, with In-no-mlo-setch-a and one of his sons, paddled about twenty-four miles up the lake in a dug-out canoe, and found
that the farther up we went the more grand and beautiful the scenery
became. About its mouth there is a large area of arable prairie hlnd.
The hills in the vicinity are covered with trees, and the lake shores,




40


COLUMBIA RIVER.


with the exception of those near the outlet, are completely timbered.
The shores are in places exceedingly steep, the granite walls rising
smooth and shiny, without a tree or blade of grass, for a thousand feet
or more from the water's edge.
Numbers of beautiful little streams put into the lake, and generally
about their mouths there is a fine series of flats or benches. One which
I recall to mind on the south shore of the lake, about twelve miles from
the mouth, is one of the most beautiful places that I have ever seen.
Fine timber exists along the lake, and can easily be cut and put in it
and brought down to its mouth. Colonel Merriam afterward went
further up the lake, and says that the timber becomes better and better
as the lake is ascended, and cedar is foudn about the head of it, which
region he describes as being wonderfully grand. At the extreme upper
end he found solid vertical walls of rock, and on these, several hundred
feet above the water's edge, were a large nu nber of hieroglyphics written
on a horizontal line, evidently by people in boats when the waters were
at this higher level. Above the first line were others at varying altitudes, but always in a horizontal line. The present Chelan Indians
could tell nothing about them, but said that they must have been made
by people who lived there long before they came there to reside.
I hope during the coming summer to go up the lake and examine and
sketch these aged marks. Perhaps it may be possible to interpret them,
and thus gain a link in the chain of the history of the aborigines of
this country. Similar marks are said to exist in a rocky point on Lake
Pend d'Oreille, which the Indians regard with superstitious awe, never
going by them, believing that they form the outward token and sign of
the evil spirit, who will punish them if they go near.
In the spring of 1880, the troops which had been encamped at the
mouth of Foster Creek for the winter, removed to Lake Chelan, and
Camp Chelan was established just where the lake narrows into the
creek, on a beautiful bunch-grass-covered plateau on the north bank,
stretching back about a mile to the rocky and timbered hills. Here the
work of erecting a saw-mill and building the post was carried on with
vigor and rapidity, considering that everything had to be done by the
labor of the troops, with a very little assistance from outside.
Temporary dwellings had to be erected, brick made, logs cut and
brought down and made into lumber at a temporary mill, the saw-mill
built, roads made from the river up the steep bluffs to the lake, and a
thousand other things done which can only be appreciated by those who
have to build a post in the wilderness, hundreds of miles away from any
point of supplies. The chief drawbacks to this post were the terrible
road getting down to the river from the Great Plain on the east, the
descent being about 2,500 feet; the crossing of the river where there
was quite a swift current; and the ascent of the hill to the lake. All
these drawbacks so impressed themselves upon the mind of General
Schriver, inspector-general of the division, that he reported very strongly




COLUMBIA RIVER.


41


against the location, and recommended that it be abandoned and some
other point selected for a post. This was done, and the present site or
Camp Spokane was selected.
While the troops were in this vicinity and in constant intercourse
with the Indians, the condition of the latter visibly improved; they
learned to do many things in the mechanic arts that they had not
known before; they were willing to work and many of them earned
considerable sums of money, and a feeling of desire to labor and prosper, and lay up for the future, was rapidly taking the place of the old
careless improvidence.
Procuring a couple of ponies from the Indians, Mr. Downing and
myself went up the steep road and over the plain to pay a visit to the
lake and the old camp. Everything was about as the troops had left
it, and it certainly presented a sorrowful appearance, with its tent and
shanty frames standing, the deserted sutler's store, and old tin cans and
commissary boxes innumerable. There was quite an amount of lumber
liled up in good condition, and everything was untouched and undisturbed by the Indians; not an Indian was visible except an old squaw,
who had been to some point up the lake and gathered a large basket of
elderberries which she was carrying home on her head. The Indians
could make themselves very comfortable in some of the deserted buildings if they were so minded, but they prefer their homes on the river
at the foot of the bluffs, where fine springs gush out and they have rich,
productive gardens.
During the night our sleep was disturbed by the howlings and nmonings of an old medicine man, who was performing his hideous incantations over a poor girl nearly dead with the consumption. They did not
seem to know of the Okinakane dog cure of consumption, or did not
wish to spare their dogs for this purpose.
The general character of the country in the vicinity of the river from
Spokane to Chelan may be described in a few words. The river flows
through a deep and rugged caion with very little bottom land along its
banks. It can be approached from the Great Plain on the south only
in three places: by the Virginia Bill road, Whitestone road, and Foster
Creek. From the north it can be approached in more places, and generally wherever a stream comes in a good easy way exists of getting to
the river. The country to the north has been very much more eroded
than that to the south.
Soon after leaving the Big Bend the timber begins to disappear from
the river, and soon canl only be seen in scattering trees in the ravines,
and in large quantity only when a vista allows a sight of the distant
northern hills.
When the Colville Indian Reservation is thrown open to settlement,
and becomes populated with thrifty and industrious whites, a railroad
will be needed up the Sans Poil Valley. But of course this will not be
required for a long time.
S. Ex. 186 -6


*




42


COLU MBIA RIVER.


CHAPTER IV.
LAKE CIfELAN TO SNAKE RIVER.
October 6.-We left Chelan at 7:30, after saying good-bye to our Indian
friends, and with a good swift current went gliding rapidily along. In
about one mile we passed the month of Chelan Creek, a roaring little
stream. Passing through an occasional ripple, we came soon to some
quite strong rapids, caused by a collection of rocks near the left bank.
These I have called " Downing's Rapids," from my assistant, Mr.
Alfred Downing, who, during the previous year while encamped at the
Chelan Crossing, got adrift in a small boat and went through this portion of the river at night, and( was wrecked in Rock Island Rapids,
and barely escaped with his life.
At seven miles from Chelan Creek we came to a rapid, where the
water flows over a bowlder and gravelly bar, on which there was a depth
of from seven to eight feet. The current sets very strongly from the left
to the right bank. We pass three small streams coming in from the
west, and begin to meet with some of the beautiful rock scenery with
which we are soon to be charmed. The right bank of the river is a
steel), rocky bluff, about 2,000 feet in height, and is striped with strata
of different-colored rocks, principally white, gray, nearly black, and
dark brown. It is all volcanic rock, and the Ribbon Bluff presents a
very handsome appearance. Five or six miles further down we come to
the Enti-at-qua River, a fine stream, coming in from the west. There
is quite anl Indian village on its banks, and several of the Indians were
engaged in spearing salmon from canoes, paddled and poled along the
the shallows by assistants. Just below the mouth of the Enti-at-qua
River there are a number of bar islands, and the river is very shallow.
We apparently went in the main channel, and I found only three feet of
water over the bar. It is barely possible that a deeper channel exists,
but I do not think so. The river is spread out and the bar is evidently
formed by the material brought down by the Enti-at-qua, when, in the
spring or summer, it becomes transformed into a raging torrent. As it
was considerably above low water when we came down, it would appear that this bar may cause considerable trouble during the very low
stages of water, and boats should be made as light in draught as possible to pass over it. This is the shallowest water met with yet. At
the lower end of the bar is quite a strong little rapid.
Five miles further down there is a commanding point on the left bank,
from which a view can be obtained for a long distance up and down the
river, and has for many years been used by the Indians as a lookout
station. I called it Longview Point. A short distance of about a mile
below Longview Point there is a large number of rocky points, rising
from the water near the right bank, causing swift, turbulent water,




COLUMBIA RIVER.


43


which will probably get much worse as the water rises.  The river
is now excellent as far down as the Wenatchee River, which we reach
at 1:30. This river, for the lower part of its course, flows tlrough a
level plain of fine agricultural land, containing from twenty to thirty
square miles. To the west rise the foot-hills of the Wenatchee Mountains, ad we get a view now and then of the snowy summits.
Across the Columbia the bluffs, which have lined the river bank
pretty closely since (Celan was left, here break back considerably into
more rounded hills, and it is possible that skillful engineering may,
in time, bring a railroad down to the river at this point, if it ever becomles necessary or desirable. This has always been a favorite crossingplace witl the Indians, and their trails lead from here in every direction.
There is one settler at the mouth of the Wenatchee, a man named
Miller, who has a store and a ranch, with a very promising orchard.
The Columbia here widens considerably, and the Wenatchee has dep)osited in it an enormous amount of debris, forming at the present stage
a number of fiat bar islands, and causing a very decided shallowing of
the river, there being not more than three or four feet of water in what
alppeared to be the main channel. Any steamboat-landing for Wenatchee River had better be below the mouth about a mile or more. At the
lower end of these flats there is a strong rapid. Mr. Miller informed me
that there was a pretty good wagon-road, which had been built during
the occupancy of Chelan as a military post, from the Kittitas Valley to
the mouth of the Wenatchee. It goes down the Columbia for five or six
miles an(l then breaks to the west.
After leaving the Wenatchee for a few miles the river was very good,
but we soon begail to encounter rapids and rocks ii great abundance.
Looking down, we see almost a continuous wall across the river, formed
by tle uplifted island points, and Around us bubbles and whirls the
water over the sunken rocks, whose heads lie just below the surface.
The rocks are projecting points of black basaltic rock, and this is certainly a part of the river requiring skillful navigation. The rock-bound
shores are steep and rugged. On we glide, winding in and out among
the rocks,' guided by the experienced hand of old Pierre, and soon we
begin to hear a more decided roar and rumble on ahead, and to realize
that we are fast nearing the dreaded Rock Island Rapids. Soon the
boat is steered to the shore, and old Pierre gets out, and, with his Indians, goes on ahead to take a look at the state of things below and
determine on his course trough the rocks, and explain to the Indians
what tley must do. Finally, after tan animate( discussion among them,
it is decided, and all return to the boat and prepare for the passage, as
at the Nespilem Rapids, by removing gloves and all superfluous clothing and( tying red handkerchiefs tightly about their heads. Choosing
tle rigllt-hand chanmel, our boat lhugs the right bank pretty closely,
passing safely the upper ripple, and apparently going straight for some




44


COLUMBIA RIVER.


jagged, rocky points jutting out from the shore below. Before she
reaches them, however, she is caught in an eddy, and it is only by the
most supreme exertion that our oarsmen can get her out. Finally she
is free, and away she goes like a bird, shooting through between the
jutting points and the large island into the main rapid, where she is
almost engulfed in the tumbling, roaring waters; on she goes into the
river below, and then makes for the shore, and we go into camp for the
night on the right bank, just below the rapids.
Much better idea can be obtained of these rapids by the map of them
which accompanies this report than can be formed by any description.
There are two channels, the east and west. We used the west, and at
this stage of water I have every reason to believe that a good, powerful steamer, properly handled, could go up it.
Old Pierre says that in extreme low-water this channel becomes
nearly dry, and in this condition is unnavigable. This west channel is
considerably wider than the east one, and is quite straight, except at
the lower end, where it is rendered crooked by the jutting bed-rock.
The east channel is the deeper one and is the better one, Pierre says,
in low-water, and also in extreme high-water, but in ordinary stages the
west one is the better.
The small steamer Chelan was brought down during high-water
through the east channel, and she struck two or three times on account
of breaking her rudder, but managed to escape. The course is very
crooked, and there is quite a fall near the head of the large island which
divides the channel. There are several sunken rocks among the rapids.
In regard to the improvement of navigation at these rapids, the proper
system to be adopted can only be determined after observations extendilg over months have been taken. I will hazard the assertion, however, that for all ordinary stages of water the west channel can be madle
navigable by the removal of rocky and jutting points. In comparison
with the Nespilem Rapids, the obstructions caused by these rapids is
slight.
All along on the east side of the Columbia the bluffs are precipitous
and 2,000 to 2,500 feet in height, being in some places nearly perpendicular and in others slightly broken away. In some places the bluffs
recede short distances from the shore to give place to bowlder flats.
The west side is still more mountainous, but is broken here and there
by a small stream, and through the gaps distant views of wooded and
snowy mountains are had. Nothing of this kind breaks the monotony
of the eastern shore. There are several INiaun farms along the river
between Chelan and these rapids, and a number of Chinese miners were
passed dluring the day. An excellent route for a portage exists along
the western shore on a terrace about one hundred feet above the water.
After leaving the main rapids we passed through about one mile of
river in which were many rocks, and then through a rapid of conlsiderable strength. Then ciame a quiet stretch of water for three or four miles,




1881
of ZtAkel
Q  0 la* o  o 0 i 2opo feet


I
I
I
f
I; I,    t,.if, I.,47thI








1114"






2 



SEN. EX. DOC. No.-! &6, Ist SESS., 47th CONG.


VICTOR)A ROCK








COLUMBIA RIVER.


45


and Cabinet Rapids were reached. These are caused by rocks sticking
up near the left bank and jutting out therefrom. The rapids are swift
and bad, and if the river is to be navigated must 'be improved by
removing some of the points of rocks and regularizing the slope. Just
below these rapids there is a Coulee mouth on the left bank.
A few miles further down there stands in the Columbia River a rock
which is one of the most perfect profile rocks in existence. Approaching it from the north, it presents a striking likeness to the profile of
Queen Victoria, from which circumstance it was given the name of "Victoria Rock." Coming nearer to it and passing it on the west, the profile
changes and merges into a more Grecian and Sphinx-like face, whose
placid immobility takes one's mind involuntarily to far-off Egypt. It
rises from the surface of the water about one hundred feet, and a pair
of eagles have selected it as their home, and upon its extreme top have
built a nest, giving, as it were, a crown to this goddess of the Columbia.
The rock is of columnar black basalt.
The portion of the river in which this rock is situated is very grand
and beautiful. The banks are nearly precipitous bluffs, from 2,000 to
3,000 feet high, composed of columnar black basalt, which takes many
wonderful shapes and produces many pleasing effects, rivaling thle
famous Giant's Causeway of Ireland in weird beauty. The columns are
in every conceivable position, sometimes piled up like cordwood, in
some places erect, and in others inclined; some great masses are twisted
and bent, forming niches, arches, grottos, crowns, &c. In one of these
niches, a thousand feet above the river, there lies in an inclined position
a stick of timber, barkless and white with age. It never grew there.
It is a thousand feet from the top of the vertical bluffs, and could not
lhave been put there from above. The only way in which it could halve
reached its present position was by being caught there when the river
was a thousand feet higher than it is now, drifting in and lodging, and
being left there by the receding river.
My pilot, "Old Pierre," an Indian pilot and voyageur of the old EHudson Bay Company, said that this log was a landmnark in the days wlelln
this company transported their furs and merchandise up and down the
river in bateaux. He says that the Indians always considered'that the
log was left there when the river was up at that height. This is one
link in the chain of evidence that proves that at no distant date the
Columbia was a stream of such magnificent proportions that the present
river is a tiny rivulet compared with it. If this be the true explanation
df the location of this log, it is a remarkable example of the preservation of wood for a long period of time. It may be that the log is petrified, but I had no means of getting at it to determine.
There are many other things which may be cited in proof that this
river has but lately become reduced to its present size. All along up
the river, wherever there is a concave portion of the bluffs, there we find
terraces of from ten to five hundred feet in elevation above their neigh



46


COLUMBIA RIVER.


bor terraces below. These are all composed of rather loose soil, bowlders and gravel, and river sediment, and have well defined and sharp
edges. These prove incontestibly the former grandeur of the river,
and exist to a height of 2,000 feet or more above the present river, and
their sharp and well-defined edges would seem to prove their newness
in the scale of time.
The picture-writings at the upper end of Lake Chelan were in all
probability made when this lake was a great arm of thle greater prehistoric Columbia, and both were hundreds of feet above their presenlt
level.
A few miles below Victoria Rock we came to the mouth of the two.coulees, which are presunal)ly those of Moses Coulee and the coul(e
breaking in from the south of Badger Mountain, and which is commlonly
accepted as the continuation of the Grand Coule'e.
In three or four miles further we come to Gualquil Rapids, which are
about a quarter of a mile in length and form no obstruction,,and then
we had seven or eight miles of the most perfect river, and we went
smoothly gliding along, with no sound but the monotonous rhythm of the
oars to break the stillness. The bluffs have been getting lower and
ldwer on both sides of the river, and tile strata seem to slope down from
the north, indicating an upheaval to the north or a subsidence to the
south.
The terrace formation so prevalent further north, here has almost
entirely disappeared.
After passing a small stream coming in from the right about two miles,
we come to Island Rapids. A bar island obstructs the free flow of the
water, and a little rapid is formed which is not at all bad.
About two miles below these rapids the country opens out on the west
into a broad flat, witl rolling hills to the rear, while the bluffis on tlhe
left bankI keep getting lower and lower. Down over a good river we
move along, and soon comle to the Crab Creek Coul'e, running alolng the
nortllern side of Saddle Mountain. Crab Creek discharges no water
into the Columbia-at this season of the year, at any rate.
Just below Crab Creek Coulee the high steep bluffs come down close
to the river on both sides. On the left bank the bluff is the end of
Saddle Mountain, on the right bank it is the commencement of a ridge
extending off to the west.
To the south of these Sentinel Bluffs the country becomes flat, sandy,
andt uninteresting, elevated but a little above the river.
Sadldle Mountain is a range of grass-covered hills, extending nearl.~
due east, and terminating in the desert plains a few mIiles to the northeast of White Ilulffs. Between it and the curve of the Columbia which
swings around by Priest Rapids anrd White Bluffs the country is largely
composed of sandy, gravelly, worthless soil. Some grass exists and
some large areas of sage-brush, but what soil there is seems to be more
alkaline and powdery than in other sections of tlhe Columbia basin.




COLUMBIA RIVER.


47


On the right bank, below the Sentinel Bluffs, the cliffs recede and a
plateau lies along the river, which seems to be of poor quality and not
well fitted for any purpose of agriculture. The hills back from the
river appear more fertile, being covered with grass and appearing to
have springs scattered along their brown sides.
For about five or six miles the river in this portion of its course is very
sluggish, wide, and deep, and on the beautiful day during which we
passed over it, it seemed to be more like a lake than a river. This dead
water is evidently caused by the damming up by the obstructions below
at Priest Raplids. The first ripple of the system of Priest Rapids is a
slight one as far as the swiftness is concerned; the water, however, is
shallow, flowing over immense bowlders and jagged rocks, which were
plainly visible from the boat and at a variety of depths below the surface. Near the left bank many of these rocks come above the water,
and the whirls told plainly that many others were just below the surface. Our course lay about the middle of the stream, and the soundingpole would indicate one instant perhaps a depth of three or four feet,
the next ten or twelve, and the next five or six. Through this portion
of the river a steamer could go now in safety after finding and knowing
thoroughly a good channel.
The second rapid is about as bad a place as there is on the whole
river. All about, the bed-rock points and islands rise up in ugly, black,
jagged masses, threatening destruction to anything that touches them.
The bottom, as in the first ripple, is composed of huge bowlders and
rocks, and the water flows swiftly over this dangerous bottom and these
outcropping rocks with a depth of only three to four feet. The fall here
is considerable; we passed over one fall of at least three feet.
A steamer could not ascend this rapid without the use of a line, and
even thll thethe greatest care would be necessary. A smooth stretch of
quiet water then followed, and we came to the third rapid, which was
swift and shallow, with considerable bed-rock jutting up near both
shores. The bed of the river at this rapid is the same as it has been all
along, composed of large bowlders.
For about five and a half miles now the river is quiet and slow, with
rocks scattered about here and there, generally in clusters. The water
is so shallow that we are able to see bottom for a great part of the way,
and is from twelve to twenty feet in depth. The fourth rapid is in this
stretch of water, but is very mild in character and presents no obstruction.
We now come to a very bad portion of the river, consisting of the
three lower rapids of Priest Rapids. We are able to tell from the prel)arations made by old Pierre and his crew that something bad is cominlg,
as well as by the roar that reaches our ears, and the black, rugged rocks
that seem to extend nearly the entire way across the river.
We reach a point where a black-rock island lies toward the left bank,
and a long, irregular mass stretches along near the right bank. This




48


COLUMBIA RIVER.


lies along the fifth rapid, in which the water is very turbulent, boiling
and roaring a great deal. This boiling and foaming is not, however,
necessarily attended with great swiftness of current, for in this ripple
we did not move as fast as in some others which appeared much more
quiet. In fact, the tumbling over the uneven bottom which causes the
agitation tends to check the velocity dBnsiderably.
The long, irregular mass near the right bank which lies along the fifth
rapid continues on down the river for about two and a half miles, with
only an occasional break.
A little below the fifth rapid we come to where the main channel is
divided into two by another long, irregular, jagged mass of the same
black basaltic rock, thrown along almost in the center of the river. We
choose the right-hand channel of the two, and, after swiftly passing a
few ugly-looking projecting points, we find ourselves in the sixth rapid,
shooting with the speed of a race-horse down through the canal-like channel between these two long rock islands. For about a mile we tore
along with the united speed of the raging torrent and our yelling Indiani
oarsmen. This channel seemed to have plenty of water, but is quite
narrow, being about sixty to eighty feet wide. We went through it at
the rate of about twenty miles an hour.
The left-hand channel is the one better suited to purposes of navigation, I believe. I did not examine it, but it has been examined by Captaiu Gore, of the Oregon Railway and Navigation Company, who informed me that e t took a steamer up through it and brought it back.
The little steamer Chelan was taken down through this channel in
safety.
This left-hand channel is crookeder and the water is not so swift as in
the straight-away one through which we came.
Emerging from the canal-like sixth rapid, old Pierre throws the boat
to the left to avoid some bad-looking water dead ahead, and, after a
little further tumbling and rolling about in the seventh rapid, we emerge
with a shout of joy from the eleven miles of Priest Rapids. We all know
now that our dangers are passed, and thank God for allowing us to
safely come through all the rapids.
We soon make for shore, and camp on the right bank, having made
during the day about fifty-eight miles.
At this point on the Columbia, at the lower end of Priest Rapids,
must surely be located a town of considerable importance, as it will for
a long time be the head of navigation on the river. It is the most convenient place from which to reach the Yakima and Kittitas valleys,
which now communicate with the lower country by a wagon-road over
the Simcoe Mountains to the Dalles. The rapids will furnish a splendid
water-power, and in all probability here will be located flour and saw
mills, as well as warehouses and stores. Logs can be brought down the
Columbia to be here sawed into lumber and distributed to the surrounding agricultural regions. The rapids are centrally located for




COLUMBIA RIVER.


49


many fine valleys and much promising country, and are easily reached
by wagon-roads from many directions.
Along the lower portion of the river traversed this day the rise and
fall of the water is much less than along any other portion of the river,
judging by the line of drift-wood along the banks and the small elevation of the plains above the river.
On Saturday, October 8, we left our camp below Priest Rapids and
pulled down the river. Very few objects of interest were to be seen.
The country on each side is low, flat, and the soil appears sandy and
unproductive. To the south the fiat land extends away to the Yakima
River. Our course during the forenoon lay nearly due east, and 1here
the river again makes a great bend to the south we come to the wellknown White Bluffs. The river makes a semicircular sweep to the
north and cuts into the bluffs, leaving a very nearly vertical wall of
from one hundred to six hundred feet in height. The rock is a sandy
marl, soft and friable, which easily powders where the cattle have traveled over it in going up and down hill for food and water. We continue along under these bluffs for ten miles or more. There are a great
many birds' nests, made of clay, attached to the bluffs, but the birds
whose houses they were had all fled.
Numbers of cattle and some horses were seen which graze on the plateaus along the river, to which they come down for water. We passed
during the day several camps of Indians engaged in salmon-fishing; in
one camp were nineteen lodges. A little after eleven o'clock we passed
the old military depot camp at White Bluffs, where the storehouses still
stand.
During the day we made about fifty-seven miles. The river is all the
way an almost perfect river for steamboating, the drawback being the
bars and shifting channel along by White Bluffs; but over these bars
there seems to be a sufficiency of water for all purposes. We passed a
great many bar islands, and encamped about six miles above the mouth
of the Yakima.
The next day, Sunday, October 9, we left camp bright and early, and
by ten o'clock reached the mouth of Snake River. The country alolln
the river, with the exception of a small area near the mouth of the
Yakima, is very poor; in fact, must be considered a desert. Back from
the river, especially to the east, the soil is good, though light, and the
only drawback to its successful cultivation is the lack of rains in the
summer and the facility with which it becomes dry and powdery.
At a distance of nine miles above the mouth of the Snake River the Yakima comes into the Columbia from the west. It rises in several large
and beautiful lakes in the Cascade Mountains, in about latitude 47~ 30',
and, taking a general course to the southeast, runs for one hundred an(d
sixty miles to its confluence with the Columbia. For twenty-five miles
down the stream its valley is only from half a mile to a mile wide; it
then widens out into Kittitas Valley, which is ten to fifteen miles wide,
S. Ex. 186-7




50                     COLUMBIA RIVER.
the river there being ninety feet wide and about three feet deep, and
very rapid.
Below this valley the river curves gradually to the south until it receives the waters of the Pisko, then it turns again to the eastward,
in which course it continues to its mouth. Between the Kittitas and
Atahnam the hills again encroach on the valley, but below that it widens
out again to from six to ten miles, with numerous branchings among
the hills. On the west side, opposite Kittitas plain, these small streams
rise atmong the hills separating the main Yalkima from its principal
branch, the Nachess. These streams are from fifteen to twenty miles
lonl and run through small and fertile valleys. The Nachess rises in
the vicinity of the Nachess Pass, and running nearly parallel with the
Yakima at a distance of fifteen or twenty miles, joins it after flowing
about fifty miles. It has a valley from half a mile to four miles in width.
The Atahnam rises about thirty miles south of it and runs in a more
easterly course, emptying into the Yakima about ten miles below; its
valley is smaller than that of the Nachess, but fertile. The Pisko resembles the Atahnam. The Yakima is not navigable for boats of any
kind.
About its headwaters there is much good timber, and it furnishes a
natural waterway to get it out to the Columbia. This is, however, attended with great difficulty, owing to the fact that the river inl the
lower pIarts of its course spreads out and becomes very shallow. It is
only when at its very highest that there is sufficient water to float logs,
and this high water only lasts a few days. If advantage is taken of it,
logs can be brought down; if not, they will lodge and remain fast on
the river bars. This has proved a great source of delay, loss, and inconvenience to those engaged in getting out timber for the Northern P'acific Railroad.
The town of Ainsworth is situated on the right bank of the Snake
River, about a half-mile above its mouth.
It is at this point that the Northern Pacific Railroad crosses the
Snake, and here are the company offices of the railroad division, built
in the midst of a bleak, dreary waste, in which for many miles around
sage-brush and sand predominate. Ainsworth is one of the most uncomfortable, abominable places in America to live in. You scan the horizon
in vain for a tree or anything resembling one. The heat through the
summer is excessive, and high winds prevail and blow the sands about
and into everything. By the glare of the sun and the flying sands one's
eyes are in a continual state of winking, blinking, and torment, if nothing more serious results. Captains Lewis and Clarke found the Indians
of this country very much afflicted with sore eyes, which they ascribe
to the glare of the sun on the desert and rivers and the prevailing sandbearing winds. It is interesting to know that they took advantage of
the fact and procured plenty of horses and provisions from the Indians
in exchange for the surgical operations which they performed and the




COLUMBIA RIVER.


51


medicines which they gave the Indians, especially the much-desired
and needed eye-water, from which their patients found great relief.
Their journal says:
We were by no means dissatisfied at this new resource for obtaining subsistence, as
the Indians would give us no provisions without merchandise, and our stock was now
very much reduced. We cautiously abstained from giving anly but harmless med(icines,
and as we could not possibly do harm, our prescriptions, thougih unsactioned by the
faculty, might be usefil, and were therefore entitled to some remuneration.
It was only by utilizing this source of revenue, after their stock in
trade was exhausted, that the distinguished explorers were enabled to
make their way back to the regions of civilization.
The railroad terminus across the river from Ainsworth was named,
and for some time bore, the appropriate name of Iacades, but some of tlhe
hligher authorities condemned the name, and substituted therefor Soutl
Ainsworth.
We drew our boat upon the bank, put the oars in her, and abandoned
her. The Indians were very much interesCed in everything about the
place, and I explained things to them as well as I could. I paid them
off, gave them tickets back to Colville, and each a letter of reconmmeldation, and Mr. Downing and I gave them all our extra clothing, and they
seemed supremely happy. Old Pierre made sundry visits to a whisky
saloon, but promised not to get drunk until he returned to Colville
where he said he would have two good drunks and then stop. The
other Indians did not seem to have any inclination to drink. I cannot
praise them too highly for their skill, their uniform good-nature, honesty, endurance, and sobriety. I think it would be very difficult to pick
up at a few hours' notice four white men who would row ua heavy boat
through dangerous rapids for four hundredmiles without wanting strong
drink, or be able to withstand, after being paid off, the temptations of
drinking-saloons.
Tlhus our journey down the river ended. We left the Indians to pursue next day their way back to Colville, and that night Mr. Downing
and I took the cars and safely arrived at Vancouver the next day.
CIAPTER V.
TABLE OF DISTANCES ON TIHE COLUMBIIA RI VER.
In computing the following table of distances I have made use of the
distance tables of the Oregon Railway and Navigation Company in determining the distances from the mouth of tile Columbia to Snake River;
from this point the distances are those determined on my recent survey
of the river and platted on the accompanying maps.
I have only given the important points up as far as Snake River.
The first column of figures gives the distances between the consecutive points named; the second column gives the total distance of the




52                     COLUMBIA RIVER.
point named from the mouth of the Columbia River; the third column
gives the total distance of the point named from the Boundary line; and
the fourth column of figures gives the total distance of the point named
from the mouth of the Snake River, both down and up the Columbia.
It will be seen by comparing my distances with those of Captain Pingstone, whose report on the river is partially given herewith, that they
do not agree, his distances being generally much greater than those
given in my table. The distances here given were taken with the
greatest care from point to point, and the whole was platted and fitted
very closely between the known positions of the boundary and the
mouth of the Snake:


Mouth COLUMBIA RIVER............
ASTORIA. —..... --- —-............... --- ——..... --- —
Kalama.. --- —..... ---..... --- —. ---Mouth Willamett... --- —---—....... —...
VaIcouver --- —----------------
~rancouver...............
Lower Cascades. —    --.. ---Upper Cascades..-... ---. --- —---
Iood River. --- —-----------—............
THIE DALES (city). --- —-......-... --- —-.. ---Celilo, at head of Dalles.............
MATILA............... —............ ---Wallula....-.. --- —-.............. --- —----
SNAKE RIVEr (AINSWORTII).......
Mouth Yakima River.. ---.... --- ——......
Foot of Long Island..............
Head of Long Island.......... ---- —..
Ohl1 White Bluffs Depot.............
End of White Bluffs...............
Ferry across Columbia..............
PRIEST RAPIDS:
Seventh Rapid..............
Head Sixth Rapid.............
Fifth Rapid ---—........-... —...-..Fourth Rapid...................
Third Rapid................
Second R)apid.................
First Rapid...................
Sentinel Bluffs -—............ —.....Mouth Crab Creek Coul6e..........
Bar Island, upper........-...........
Island Rapids...................
Gnalquil Rapids................
Lodgestick Bluff..................


10
68
30
6
45
6
18
23
14
82
23
11
9
23
4
10
5
22. 5
1.5
1
4
1
2.5
1.5
4.5
1
6.5
4
10
4.5


10
78
108
114
159
165
183
206
220
302
325
336
345
368
372
382
387
409
409. 5
411
412
416
417
419. 5
421
425. 5
426. 5
433
437
447
451. 5


o
B
638
ca
540
752
742
674
644
638
593
587
569
546
532
450
427
416
407
384
380
370
365
343
342. 5
341
340
336
335
332. 5
331
326. 5
325. 5
319
315
305
300. 5


19
O.
a ~
336
326
258
228
222
177
171
153
130
116
34
11
0
9
32
36
46
51
73
73. 5
75
76
80
81
83. 5
85
89. 5
90. 5
97
101
lit
115. 5


Remarks.
Northern Pacific Railroad crossing.
Road from hero to old Camp
Chelan and to Spokane Falls.
Road from here to Kittitas Val
ley and to Yakimna.
Called also Eagle Rapids.




COLUMBIA RIVER.


53


P4
(1
5)
2
3t.0
0-4
220
455. 5
456. 5
461. 5
463. 5
466. 5


0
0
0
22c1
~Cd
296. 5
295. 5
290. 5
288. 5
285. 5


z.0
0.p
Q05
119. 5
120. 5
125. 5
127. 5
130. 5


Ptemarks.


Mouth Grand Coiil(de..............
Month Moses C0oulde...............
Victoria R-ock.....................
CAB3INET RAPID~S..................
Rapid............................


ROCK TSI.AND RAPIDS...................I --- —........... — 11........


(C dlied also " Os6 deo Pierre Ra.,p.
Islf'e deo Pierre Rapids aond
IBuckhrnd's lRapId(s.


Foot...........................
Head.........................
Bishop's Rock................. ---Corn. of Rock Islands and Rapids.
Road to Kittitas leaves river. ---Rapid below Wenatchee flats....
Wenatchee River............... ---
Rocky Bar.................... ---Longview Point..................
Rapid below Enti-at-qua Bar. ---Enti-at-qua River............... --
Ribbon Bluff.................. ---Bar and Rapid  ----------—. --
Rap t)i d........................ ---Downiing's Rapid..................
Chelan River.................. ---Chelan Crossing, Tndian village....
Rapid........................ --- —
Rapid........................ ---Lower end Methow Rapids......
Methow River................. ---
Bar.......................... --- —
OKINAKANE, RIVER ----------------
Foster Creek..................... —
FoSrEM CREEK RAPIDS.............
Rapids...........................
Rapid........................ --- —
End Short Rapids.................
Commencement Short Rapids -..
End of Long Rapids -----------
KALICILEN FALLS AND WHIRLPOOL
RAPIDS.........................
Comnmencemlent Long Rapids.....
Rapid............................
Rapid...........................
Rapid............................
Rapid............................
Rapid............................
MAu.-KIN RAPIS...................


1
1.5
6.5
1
1.5
4. 5
2
6
2
5. 5
2
7. 5
8
2
4
1. 5
1
4. 5
7. 5
3. 5
1. 5
6
2
9
1
2
3
2
1. 5
2
1
1
1
3. 5
1
1
2. 5
1. 5


467. 5
469
475. 5
476. 5
478
482. 5
484. 5
490. 5
492. 5
498
590
507. 5
515. 5
517.
521. 5
523
524
528. 5
536
539. 5
541
547
549
558
559
561
564
566
567. 5
569. 5
570. 5
571. 5
572. 5
576
577
578
580. 5
582


284. 5
283
276. 5
275. 5
274
269. 5
267. 5
261. 5
259. 5
254
212
244. 5
236. 5
234. 5
230. 5
229
228
223. 5
216
212. 5
211
205
203
194
193
191
188
186
184. 5
182. 5
181. 5
180. 5
179. 5
176
175
174
171. 5
170


131. 5
133
139. 5
140. 5
142
146. 5
148. 5 Bad ba-r and gravel flats just b~e.
low moutll, Miller's Store and
Ranch.
154. 5
156. 5
1692
164
171. 5
179. 5
181. 5
185. 5
187
188    01(3 crossing for Camp Cbela,II
19.5 Indian Ferry.
200
203. 5 Called also Ross R'apids.
205
211
213
222
223
225
228
230
231. 5 Rapids 12 miles 1011g.
233.5


234. 5
235. 5
236. 5
240
241
242
244. 5
246


Raspids 4 m~iles long
Calledlalso Cannon Rapids.




54


COLUMBIA RIVER.


60
Nespilem River....... ---............ 8
Equilibrium Rapids.. —. --- ——.... —... ----  3
Monaghan's Rapids. ----.. —......     2. 5
Strong Rapid.....................   4. 5
Rapid.. --- —-..-..... --- —-------   3
Grand Couleo............... —.... 2
No-ah-kwa Creek.....-..-........     7
Mammoth Spring.............. —..     7
Sans Poil River..................    2. 5
tIELI, GATE.-......-...-..........   4
Friedlander's Store..................  2
*  Whitestone and Whitestone Creek.. 2
Castle Cove.........................  5
Welsh Creek....................... 5
Hawk Creek; "Virginia Bill's ".       1.5
China Camp on Island..-...-........  2.5
SPOKANE RIVER............... ---.     2.5
SPOKANE RAPIDS..-.. —....-.....- -  0. 5
Mitre Rock.-...... —...............-   4
Camp Creek.. --- —... ----... ----..  4
Deer Creek...... —.................... —   1
Rapid............-... — ---------—.. 1
Ik-ke-lux-tum Creek. --- —....-....   3
Elbow Bend, Black Island Rapids...2
Rapid.. —.....  -—.................... 2
Rogers Bar............. ----  -  - 2. 5
Rapid.... --- —------------------     1
Ne-al-me-chin Creek.................  2
Rapids, big jutting rock (left bank)..  3. 5
Turtle Rapids --- —-------------       3
En-el-cost-em Creek -...-...........  7
En-cha-lay-em Creek -... —   -.........   1
Rock Island and Bar near (right b'k). 1. 5
Charley Francais Bar..............  2
Sans Poil Indian Settlement and Bar. 2
En-qua-shay-em Creek..............    3
Tch-ka-ka-wick's house............ 4. 5
Driftwood Rock Island.............   2. 5
RICKEY'S LANDING..................   3
GRAND RAPIDS......... ---..... —......  2. 5
Mouth Colville River.............    3
KETTLE FALLS ----..-.... —..........   4
Kettle River................... 2
Old Fort Colville....................  1
Six-Mile Bar.................... 6
Twelve-Mile Bar....................  6
Little Dalles...................... 11
BOUNDARY LINE...................... 15


I


~1      A
~iji
R~
590     162
593     159
595.5   156.5
600     152
603     149
605     147
612     140
619     133
621. 5  130. 5
625. 5  126. 5
627. 5  124.5
629. 5  122. 5
634.5   117.5
639     113
640. 5  111. 5
643     109
645.5   106. 5
646     106
650     102
654      98
655      97
656      96
659      93
661      91
663      89
665. 5   86. 5
666. 5   85. 5
668. 5   83. 5
672      80
675      77
682      70
683      69
684. 5   67.5
686. 5   65. 5
688. 5   63. 5
691.5    60.5
696      56
698.5    53.5
701.5    50.5
704      48
707      45
711      41
713      39
714      38
720      32
726      26
737      15
752       0


I


a.. 0              Remarks.
254
257
259. 5
264
267
269
276
283
285. 5
289. 5
291. 5  Road to the South.
293. 5
298. 5
303
304. 5  Excellent road to the
307
309. 5
310
314
318
319
320
323
325
327
329. 5
330. 5
332. 5
336
339
346
347
348. 5
350.5
352. 5
355. 5
360
362. 5 Rapid.
365. 5
368
371
375
377
378
384
390
401
416.,


south.




COLUMBIA RIVER.                         55
To this I add the following distances derived from the works of Alexander Ross and others:
^s  oO           "
i    z|     |   |~       Remarks.
BOUNDARY  LINE...................................  752........  416
Pend d'Oreille River.......................  1  753  1  417
Kootenay River.....................  24  777  25  441
Lower Arrow Lake................. ---.......  12  789  37  *453  South end.
Do..................................  42  831  79  495  North end.
Upper Arrow Lake........................  16  847  95  511  South end.
Do..................................  33  880  128  544  North end.
Little Narrows or Dalles..-........... —.  37  917  165  581
City of Rocks...............................  22  939  187  603
Dalles des Morts...........................  23  ~ 962  210  626
Boat Encampment........................  70  1, 032  280  696  Canoe River and  Portage River.
CHAPTER VI.
NAVIGATION OF THE COLUMBIA RIVER.
From its mouth to the mouth of the Willamette, the Columbia is na:vigated by ocean steamers, sea-going ships, and river craft of all kiids.
From the Willamette up to the Cascades, river boats find abundant
water and go freely at all seasons of the year except when the river
freezes up, which happens generally each winter. The freeze-ups on
this portion of the river last but a short time, however.
At the Cascades the obstruction to navigation is complete. Boats
cannot ascend the rapids at all, and they cannot descend with any degree of safety. Here, in order to render the river navigable, lmeans
must be adopted to pass boats both up and down over the rapids. A
canal with locks has been adopted as the means to do this, and work
has progressed on it for several years. When this is completed navigation will be continuous up to the Dalles. This will throw the river
open to all who wish to navigate it, and a healthy competition will be the
result for all the trade centering on the river at and below the Dalles.
The Dalles is another complete and total obstruction to navigation.
Boats can neither go up nor down them, and in consequence mealns
must also be adopted here to pass them both up and down, if complete
river navigation is proposed. Surveys have been made and plans and
estimates are now being prepared for the desired improvement here.
With these two serious obstacles removed, there would be continuous
navigation to Priest Rapids, a distance of 409 miles from the sea, and
by the Snake River to the Grande Ronde River, 30 miles above Lewiston, a distance of 516 miles from the sea, making a total of navigable




56                     COLUMBIA RIVER.
water of 589 miles. To this must be added the navigable waters of the
Clearwater, the extent of which I do not know.
This would throw open to competition the river transportation demanded by the great grain belt between the Cascades and the Bitter
Boot Mountains, south of the forty-seventh parallel.
By no other means could the government confer a more decided and
lasting benefit upon the people of this great section than by removing
the obstructions to navigation at the Cascades and Dalles.
The portions of the river at present regularly navigated by river
steamers are those below the Cascades to the mouth of the river; between the Cascades and the Dalles; and from Celilo, above the Dalles,
to the mouth of the Snake River, on the Columbia; and up the Snake
to Lewiston. Once in a while a steamer makes a trip to Priest Rapids,
but the business is not sufficient at present to cause one to be sent
with any regularity. The Columbia, from the mouth of the Snake to
Priest Rapids, is excellent for the purpose of navigation and will never
need any improvement, in all probability.
If Priest Rapids could be improved it would give navigation thence
to Cabinet Rapids, a few miles below Rock Island Rapids. The consequence of throwing this portion of the river into the prospective continuously navigable river below will be readily seen by a study of the
map. The splendid valley of the Kittitas and Upper Yakima would
have an easy and short outlet to the navigable river. I have never been
in this portion of the country, but am assured by those who have that
a great amount of fine land exists there.
On the other side of the river th6 fine country composing Badger
Mountain would be benefited, and would be settled and its produce
taken to tidewater by the river boats.
The amount of country to the west of the river which would be benefited by the improvement of Priest Rapids is about thirteen hundred
square miles, of which a large portion is arable and grazing land of excellent quality. On the east of the river there is an area of about four
hundred square miles, a great part of which is the finest quality of agricultural land. This of course is the area to be directly benefited; indirectly, all the country up the river would be benefited, as well as all the
portions below which will need lumber and fuel, readily obtainable in
the region of the Upper Yakima and Wenatchee.
CABINET AND ROCK ISLAND RAPIDS.
A distance of about forty-two miles of navigable water lies between the
head of Priest Rapids and the foot of Cabinet Rapids. This portion of
the river, if it ever becomes well known, will be celebrated for its beauty
and grandeur. Out of the same materials as those which compose the
"Giants' Causeway" of Ireland, nature has formed and decorated this
locality.
In any scheme for the improvement of the navigation of the river




COLUMBIA RIVER.


57


Cabinet Rapids and Rock Island Rapids must be considered together,
as they lie only about four miles apart.
Above Rock Island Rapids there is a stretch of ninety miles of navigable water to Foster Creek Rapids, ten miles above the Okinakane.
In this section of the river there are some portions where rocks are plenty
and waters swift and strong; they can, however, be avoided and overcome by a moderate amount of care, a sufficiency of power, and skillful navigation.
There are four bars in this portion of the river, of which one, about
two miles below the Okinakane, and another about eight miles below
Chelan, have undoubtedly a sufficiency of water for all purposes. The
Wenatchee and Enti-at-qua bars are worse, and it will be well to determine accurately the depth of water on them at the lowest navigable
stage, and build steamers to correspond thereto.
My observation did not extend over the entire water-course at either
place, and I cannot tell positively the general depth that could be taken
over. I believe, however, that, on the Enti-at-qua bar especially, a
steamer drawing more than three feet would have serious difficulty in
getting over at low-water.
If it is deemed desirable to have steamers on the river drawing lkiore
water than there is on these bars it will be easy and inexpensive to
dredge out a channel of sufficient depth, and it might be that a silmple
improvement in the form of a wing-dam would cause the river itself to
keep a channel of sufficient depth cut through. At all ordinary stages,
however, there would be plenty of water for the class of boats likely to
run on the river for many years to come.
We can therefore safely conclude that with Priest Rapids and Cabinet and Rock Island Rapids rendered navigable, the Columbia would
be passable for river steamers to Foster Creek Rapids, a distance fromn
its mouth of 559 miles. Let us consider what country would be benefited thereby.
First would be the Wenatchee country, which is splendid in quality
and of considerable extent. The fine flat of about twenty-five square
miles near the mouth is all that I can speak of with certainty, but
undoubtedly up the river are other valleys suitable for agriculture, and
a great amount of fine grazing land. The timber in the Wenatchee
Mountains and in the whole region of timbered mountains west of the
Columbia River will be valuable, and the whole interior country will be
benefited by any plan which will assist in giving it easy and cheap
transportation to those sections where it is needed.
Second. About the mouth of the Enti-at-qua the amount of arable land
is not great; as to what may be in the interior, I am ulnable to tell.
Third. About Lake Chelan there is a great deal of good agricultural
land in the form of open prairies, bunch-grass-covered hills, and rich,
rolling timbered country. The lake will furnish the means of getting at
a large amount of valuable timber which exists along its banks.
Fourth. About the upper branches of the Methow there is a considerS. Ex. 186  8




58                     COLUMBIA RIVER.
able extent of good agricultural and grazing land. The lower portion
of the Methow flows through a range of wooded hills and is hemmed in
closely by them; further up, these hills become more rolling and grassy,
and the banks of the streams are bordered by level and wide terraces
of excellent soil. Throughout this large territory of 4,675 square miles,
now set apart for Chief Moses and his people, there are many fine valleys and agricultural hills which would be benefited by an open river.
Fifth. The magnificent country bordering upon and tributary to the
Okinakane would be immensely benefited by an open, through river
navigation. I have already described, as far as I could, the country in
the vicinity of the Okinakane, and will not do so again here.
Sixth. All that portion of the Great Plain of the Columbia lying between the river and the Grand Coulee and Badger Mountains would
be benefited by the improvement. This region is at present unsettled
and far away from market, but it is a fine agricultural section and will
have a large population some day.
The amount of country which would receive a direct benefit from the
improvement of Rock Island and Cabinet Rapids, assuming, of course,
the removal of all obstructions, and a free and open river below, would
be about as follows, the areas given being, as near as possible, the
agricultural and choice grazing lands:
Square miles.
Vicinity of Wenatchee and Enti-at-qa.............................  120
Vicinity of Lake Chelan..........................................   100
Vicinity of Methow-..-... ---....-.............-..........500
Vicinity of Okinakane....-............................1,12........ 1,
Great Plain, west of Grand and Moses Coul6es..-.....-..............  980
Total................................................. 2,820
The indirect benefits to the whole country east of the mountains would
be very great, as it would insure the easy and cheap transportation to
the grain belts about Walla-Walla and the Lower Snake and Columbia
of the wood and lumber abounding about Lake Chelan, the Wenatchee,
Methow, Okinakane, and other streams. This commerce in lumber will
certainly be of great importance. Besides the commercial interests involved in the raising and shipment of grain, cattle, wool, lumber, &c.,
other interests of great importance are apt to be created as the country
is examined, if mines of the precious metals, iron, coal, &c., are discovered and developed.
I come next to consider the benefits which would arise if the river
froml Foster Creek Rapids to the Mahkin Rapids was improved so as to
allow boats to pass freely from the good river below to the good river
above and vice versa. In order to consider this properly it is necessary
to go ahead a little and take a look at Hell Gate and the Spokane Rapids, the only other obstructions worthy of mention below Grand Rapids
near the mouth of the Colville River.
Until proved to the contrary I shall consider that Hell Gate is navi



COLUMBIA RIVER.                     59
gable both up and down for steamers. If it is proved to be too swift
for boats to ascend, then some method must be adopted for its improvement which can be considered further on.
Acknowledging that Hell Gate is navigable, we come to the Spokane
Rapids, which are not navigable, except by a steamer using a line.
They are short and the waters have a consideralle fall; but as I have
previously said, they can be rendered passable at a small expense by
removing the bowlders and rocks which clog the clannel and are the
cause of the rapids. An expenditure of $20,000 would, I believe, effectually improve this bad place and render it easily navigable at all stages
of water. In the mean time, until their improvement shall be completed,
any boats engaged in commerce on the river can line over the rapid
safely, as tlle channel has plenty of depth and is straight.
This portion of the river then from Mahkin to Grand Rapids, a distance of one hundred and twenty-two miles, must be considered as
navigable, since the only obstructions in it are of such a temporary
nature.
If, then, we assume that the river from Foster Creek Rapids to Malhkin Rapids be improved to allow the passage of boats, we see that it
will open up the river to Grand Rapids, and all the country tributary to
the river up to this point will be directly benefited by the improvement.
About a good deal of this country very little is known, but judging from
what I do know and have been told, and from the general appearance
of the country as seen from a distance, I think that a fair estimate of
the good productive land (arable and grazing) which by means of the
river improvement would be brought into direct river communication
with tide-water is as follows:
Square miles.
Vicinity of Nespilem  River.. —... —................. --................. --- —   360
Vicinity of Sans Poil River. ---.. ----.........- —....... —... ---.... ----. 540
Immediate vicinity of Columbia River....................... -............. 1. 020
Vicinity of Colville River...........................-................. T00
Vicinity of Spokane River..... —.............-...................... 200
Great Plain south of Spokane and Columbia..........-..-.......-.-..-.. ---— 2,400
Total.......................................................  5, 120
It is scarcely worth while for me to enlarge on the general benefit to
the whole North Columbian Basin, which would be conferred by removing all the obstructions and giving through river navigation from
Grand Rapids to the sea.
The continued, earnest, and united efforts.of other countries and sections to obtain water transportation to the seaboard by means of rivers
and canals, sufficiently attest the estimation in which it is held by the
people, and its value and importance are clearly shown by all the navigable rivers and internal water routes of the worldl.
The Government of the United States has conlmmenced the improvement of the Columbia at the first obstruction, the Cascades; it has




60


COLUMBIA RIVER.


taken the preliminary steps toward the improvement at the Dalles, and
it will ere long be called upon to commence the improvement at Priest
Rapids and the upper rapids to give a continuously navigable river.
If we take a glance forward to the time when all this eastern portion
of Washington Territory shall be settled, when the whole land shall be
a waving field of grain, with here and there a village or a city; with
railroads traversing the country in every direction, and a vast commerce being carried on between the sea and the interior; if we picture
to ourselves all this with the Columbia in its present state of interrupted navigability, and then picture it with the river completely navigable from the Grand Rapids to its mouth, we shall be able in some
degree to appreciate the importance of undertaking and completing the
great works of improvement needed on the river.
In considering the amelioration of the river from Grand Rapids to its
mouth, we can divide the rapids which form obstructions to navigation
into two classes: first, those which do not admit the passage of steamers either in ascending or descending the river, and cannot be made
to admit this passage by any work upon the rapids themselves; and,
second, those which, while forbidding the passage of steamers in ascending, permit them to descend in safety or can be made to permit the
downward passage by work on the rapids themselves.
The Dalles, the Cascades, Grand Rapids, and Kettle Falls belong to
the first class; all the other bad rapids belong to the second class.
Priest, Cabinet, Rock Island, and the Nespilem rapids all permit or can
readily be made to permit the downward passage of steamers. If, then,
we suppose that a loaded steamer engaged in river commerce can start at
Grand Rapids and safely descend the river to the Dalles, and by means
of improvements here and at the Cascades, to the river's mouth, the
problem simplifies itself into adopting some system of improvement to
permit this steamer with its load to ascend the river.
itassing up from the Cascades and Dalles, the first obstacle which presents itself is Priest Rapids.
IMPROVEMENT OF PRIEST RAPIDS.
The proper plan for improving these rapids must be determined by
further surveys and observations extending over a greater length of time
than I could devote to them. The lower system of rapids, consisting of
the fifth, sixth, and sev enth, are close together, and connected with the
upper system of the first,,second, third, and fourth rapids by a good
quiet stretch of river.
I thought while in the vicinity of the rapids that perhaps this lower
system might be improved and rendered sufficiently navigable by workilg upon) the bed-rock and bowlders in the river, blasting and clearing
away a properly laid-out channel; further reflection, however, induces
me to be cautious about expressing such an opinion. Captain Gora, con



COLUMBIA RIVER.


61


manding one of the Oregon Railway and Navigation Company steamers,
told me that he went with his steamer up through this system into the
good water beyond, and turned around and camne back, keeping the channel near the left bank. His trip was made when the water was at a low
stage and( with an unloaded boat.
If the improvement could be effected by this means the cost would
not be great. It may be that the upper system of rapids can be improved by the method of blasting and clearing out the river. Above
the rapids there is a long stretch of very quiet, deep water, which will
bear lowering and quickening a great deal, sufficiently to enable tile
river to assume a navigable slope down to the middle good water. If
the river from the mouth of Crab Creek Coul6e to a point a few miles
below the rapids could be regularized, it would undoubtedly be navigable.
If, however, when the proper detailed surveys have been made and
experiments conducted, it is found, as I believe it will be, that it is not
practicable to improve the bed of the river sufficiently to give good
navigation, then some other means must be adopted.
The best means to adopt for this purpose I conceive to be a railway,
over which boats can be transported from the foot of the rapids to the
head.
I would advocate a railway in preference to a canal and locks, on
the ground of expense. The cost of the construction of a railway and
its adjuncts would probably be not more than from one-sixth to onefourth of the cost of a canal about Priest Rapids, and its operating expenses would not be very much greater. About the Nespilem Rapids,
from Foster Creek to Mahkin Rapids, the cost of a canal with locks
would be so great as to render it entirely out of the question to build it
or even to contemplate building it; while the cost of a railway would
be a reasonable sum proportionable to the benefits to be derived from it,
and would answer every purpose of a canal.
Steamboats can certainly go down Priest Rapids safely if under steam
and with sound steering-apparatus. To give entire safety and avoid as
far as possible all risks, it might and probably would be found necessary to remove some rocks from the channel. The expense of doing this
would be slight.
The conformation of the ground is peculiarly favorable for the construction of a railway. It is, along the left bank, a level plain of solid
soil, largely composed of bowlders and gravel, at a slight elevation,
probably not more than forty feet above the river. As the river is navigable for boats bound down, the railway would have for its end only
the taking of boats up stream, and, in consequence, the construction
and operation would be very simple. It probably would not take more
than a quarter to a third of the time to build a railway that it would a
canal, and once well built the railway could be maintained andi kept in
order as cheaply as the canal.
While it is very far from nmy intention to give a detailed plan for a




62                     COLUMBIA RIVER.
railway for transporting river boats around the rapids of the Columbia
River, yet I wish to give a very general outline of such a plan.
Just below the foot of the rapids an inclined track could run down
into deep water. A carriage, or car, with its top shaped to receive the
bottom of the boat, could be run down on this track into the deep water
and the boat received in it.
A stationary engine could take the carriage and boat up the incline
to a summit point sufficiently high to give a slight down grade to the
deep water at the head of the rapids. At the summit the vertical direction could be changed, and a locomotive could take the carriage and
boat down to the head of the rapids, and bring back the carriage. At
Priest Rapids the course of the railway could be perfectly straight, obviating any necessity for a horizontal change of direction. The time
which would be occupied in making the portage need not exceed two
hours at the most, and by having several carriages the process of taking
one boat up the incline could go on coincidently with the transportation
of another to the head of the rapids, so that, with everything working
well, it may be safely estimated that a boat could be taken over every
hour with a single track. This would accommodate the river commerce
for many years to come, and if it ever became necessary the facilities
for transporting boats could be indefinitely increased by building a
double track for the return of the carriage, and adding the necessary
improvements to the plant.
The class of boats which it will be found most advantageous to run
on the Upper Columbia will probably be found to be similar to those
now run on the Snake River, and of which the Spokane, Annie Faxon,
and Almota are types. The Annie Faxon, the largest of these, is 165
feet long, 37 feet beam, 5 feet depth of hold, and haa a measured tonnage
of 709 tons.
If we suppose a boat with her load having a displacement of 800 tons,
which is probably the largest boat that would demand transportation,
the carriage or car on which to transport her must weigh about 100 tons.
This 900 tons is the weight to be transported and handled on the railroad. Once up the incline it can readily be handled by a good freight
locomotive on a properly constructed track. This would be much more
than would ordinarily be taken over, as most of the freight would be
down river, and boats would be lightly laden going up stream.
Another very favorable circumstance which would facilitate the operation of a boat railway about Priest Rapids is the very small rise and
fall of the river here. I cannot say what the difference between high
and low water is, but it is very much less than at most other points on
the river, and probably not more than eighteen to twenty feet.
If a canal should be decided on instead of a railway, the route would
be the same, along the left bank. Tlhe same may be said of an ordinary
portage railway for the transfer of freight, &c., from boats at one end
to boats at the other end of the rapids.




COLUMBIA RIVER.


63


IMPROVEMENT OF CABINET AND ROCK ISLAND RAPIDS.
Once the river at these rapids is well known to an experienced and
skillful steamboat captain, he can take his boat down through both with
entire safety, if she be under good headway and with sound and efficient
steering apparatus. Of this I have no doubt.
At the stage of water which existed when I passed through, it seemed
to me that a good, powerful steamer, lightly loaded, could ascend through
both.  However, at the best these rapids are not to be considered
navigable in their present condition, for ordinary boats heavily loaded
could not ascend. Cabinet Rapids can be very much improved; sufficiently so, I believe, by removing some of the rocks which jut out from
the left bank and rise from the water towards this bank. There is a
stretch of quiet water above these rapids which would allow of being
quickened by the removal of these damming rocks.
The removal of 8,000 cubic yards of rock at a cost of about $7.50 per
yard, making an expense of $60,000, would be sufficient for the Iurlose,
I believe, and give satisfactory navigation up to the foot of Rock Island
Rapids.
Rock Island Rapids are so situated and formed that a steamer. in
going up, could take advantage of many eddies, and work her way up
by crossing over the ripples from one side to another. There are somen
sunken rocks and jutting points which might interfere witl this, and
which should be removed. A careful study of the rapids and experiments with a steamer would determine which of these rocks and points
it would be well and necessary to remove, and whether the navigation
could be made satisfactory by such means. There is this to be said: for
a number of years, until the country becomes well settled, the river trlasportation demanded will be small in amount, and any expedient which
will give passable transportation over these rapids will be of great value
in settling the country above.
The final and complete improvement of Rock Island Rapids will
undoubtedly require that either a canal or a railway shall be constructed to allow the passage of boats from below to above the rapids.
As at Priest Rapids, so here, I should advocate the construction of a
railway, and for the same reasons. To go around Rock Island Rapids
proper, a railway would require to be about two and a half miles long
and to change direction once, both vertically and horizontally. If Cabinet Rapids cannot be sufficiently improved by working on the rocks
of its bed, the railway must be extended down to include them. In
this case the railway would be about six miles long, and would not
need to change its direction horizontally.
The conformation of the ground is well suited for the construction of
a railway. At Rock Island Rapids the right bank of the river rises
about one hundred feet to a nearly level plateau, which extends down
almost to Cabinet Rapids. In the materials of this plateau the bed of




64                    COLUMBIA RIVER.
the railway would be easily made, and would be solid and enduring.
The plateau widens out considerably at Rock Island Rapids, and extends for about three miles above.
IMPROVEMENT OF THE NESPILEM RAPIDS.
The improvement of the Columbia River from Foster Creek to Mahkin Ratpids, the whole system being known as the Nespilem Rapids, is
next to be considered. After traversing this portion of the river I
came to the conclusion, at first, that it was so bad, and the bad portion
so extensive, that its amelioration would be so expensive that the benefits to be derived therefrom would not justify the work. Further reflection however, and study of the country, the river, and methods of
improvement, convince me to the contrary, and I thoroughly believe
that means can be adopted at a reasonable expense which will permit
the passage of boats up and down the river, and that the requirements
of commerce will in the future demand and insure its being done.
In this stretch of about twenty-four miles, there are fourteen distinct
ripples, some of them a mile or more in length. How much of this stretch
can be made navigable for upward-bound boats by work on the river-bed
it is impossible for me to say. Probably a considerable portion of it could
be. Many of the rapids and ripples are caused by an accumulation of
great rocks in the river brought there by ice transportation, and the
removal of these would have a very great effect on the current. While
I believe that it would be dangerous for a steamboat to run these Nespilemn Rapids, yet I believe at the same time that by the removal of
some obnoxious rocks and points, and the acquiring of a thorough
knowledge of the river, its currents, channels, eddies, &c., it could be
-done with entire safety, provided no accident occurred on the steamboat
itself. I see no reason why good steamers, with careful and experienced
captains, cannot make a business of running down through these rapids.
Careful surveys, observations, and experiments could determine
which of the rapids can be made to permit the ascent of boats; about
the others, boat railways, similar to those proposed for Priest and Rock
Island Rapids, can be built.
By a well-considered system of river improvement, and boat railways,
I think that the passage of the Nespilem Rapids can be successfully
accomplished.
A railway weuld probably be necessary about Foster Creek Rapids,
about the Long Rapids, embracing Kalichen Falls and Whirlpool
Rapids, and possibly about Malikin Rapids, three in all. The first
would be about two and a half miles long, the second about four and a
half, and the last two miles long.
At the Foster Creek Rapids the ground is favorable for any kind of
construction, and a railway would be easily built. At the other places
the ground is not favorable, and the construction would be difficult and




COLUMBIA RIVER.                        65
expensive in comparison to what it would be at any other place where
the railway would be needed. It would be still more unfavorable for
any kind of canal construction.
To summarize then, the system of improvements that I would advocate to give continuous navigation from Grand Rapids to the mouth of
the Columbia River is as follows:
First. The improvement required at the Spokane Rapids, the expense
of which would be slight.
Second. A combined system of river improvement and boat railways
at the Nespilem Rapids.
Third. A boat railway at Rock Island Rapids, and the improvement
of the river at Cabinet Rapids.
Fourth. The construction of a boat railway around Priest Rapids.
Fifth and sixth. The construction of a canal with locks about the
Dalles and the Cascades.
The following approximate estimate of the cost of the inproveienets
above the mnouth of Snake River is given:
Boat railway around Priest Rapids-.................................  00, 000
Boat railway around Rock Island Rapids................................  400, 000
Boat railway around Foster Creek Rapidstl-...-.-................. 4-400, 000
Boat railway around Kalichen Falls, &c. —..............................  800, 000
Boat railway around Mahkin Rapids..................................  500, 000
$2,700.000
Improvement of the river at Priest Rapids..............................  0, 000
Illlprovement of the river at Cabinet Rapids................-........   60, 000
Imprrovemlent of the river at Rock Island Rapids........................  25,000
Improvement of the river at Nespilemr  Rapids..........................  150, 000
Improvement of the river at Spokane Rapids —........................  20, 000
Total...........................................:..., 005, 000
In view of the probability or at least possibility of the government,
at some future time, undertaking the improvements mentioned, it would
seem to be a wise step to secure now the lands which would be needed
for the railways and works.
The lands are, I believe, unsurveyed, and strips could be set aside
and reserved from sale for the purposes of inmprovenellt without cost to
the government or hardship to any private individual.
Whatever system of improvement be adopted it would be necessary
to have these lands, and I would suggest that proper steps be taken to
reserve them.
Besides tlme method of taking boats up around the rapids by railway,
other methods and combinations of methods may be found when the
attention of engineers is thoughtfully directed thereto. It is highly
proballe that in some localities, perhaps in all, a system of warping
lines can be arranged whichl will enable the boats to surmount the Inost
rapid portions of the current, their own power taking them over all the
intermediary water between the successive ripples.
S. Ex. 186 —9




66


COLUMBIA RIVER.


A boat provided with a good steam capstan or drum could make fast
to a fixed warping line or lines and work herself up over the rapids; or
the line could be worked by a steam engine and drum on shore at the
head of the rapids, thus giving the boat having hold of the line the
additional power required.
Rock Island Rapids, portions of the Nespilem Rapids, and Hell Gate
would seem to be well situated for this method of navigation, owing to
the favorable conformation of the shores and islands.
There would of course be danger to the boats if the lines should
break, but this danger could be very largely guarded against by using
strong and specially prepared cables of steel or iron wire, by having
facilities for disengaging the cable instantly, by keeping up steam, being
thoroughly acquainted with the liver, and knowing exactly what to do
in case of accident at any point in the transit.
This would be very much less expensive than the boat-railway system, if it could be made practicable.
I am thoroughly convinced that skillful engineers will find some
metlod or methods for giving satisfactory navigation throughout nlearly
the whole course of the Columlbia within our borders, when the time
comes that it shall be demanded.
GRAND RAPIDS, KETTLE FALLS, AND LITTLE DALLES.
Grand Rapids and Kettle Falls taken together form an obstruction to
the navigation of the river which it cannot be hoped will ever be overcome. There does not seem to be any probability that sufficient commerce will be developed on the upper river to justify the great expense
that would be incurred in giving navigation around these two obstructions.
An ordinary portage railroad could be very easily built around them
if it should be desirable. Probably a route for a portage along the west
bank would be the most economical one to select, if other questions did not
come in, to cause the one along the east bank to be chosen. By laying
the portage on the east bank, a portion of the Colville Valley Road to
Grand Rapids would be utilized.
Above Kettle Falls the river is navigable for twenty-six miles to the
Little Dalles. These latter can be ascended by steamers using a line,
but this is not, of course, satisfactory navigation. It would not take a
very large amount of money to render this obstruction passable. In all
probability, however, it will be found when the country becomes settled,
and the river above the Little Dalles navigated, that a branch line of
railroad will be required from the main Colville Valley up Mill Creek and
Echo Valley, and through to the river above the Little Dalles. This
branch line, in connection with the portion of the Colville Valley Road
running through the lower part of the valley to the river below Grand
Rapids, will form a portage road around all these falls. The length of




COLUMBIA RIVER.                        67
this line by the circuitous route that it would go is about thirty-five
miles.
Above the Little Dalles the river is navigable for two hundred and
eighty niles to Death Rapids, according to the estimate of Captain
Pingstone, or two hundred and twenty-five miles, according to the estimate of Alexander Ross and others.
This extreme upper navigable portion of the river can be used most
economically in connection with railroads, a portion of the railroad system giving a portage around the obstructions, ald a river, as well as a
rail communication, with the country below.
PORTAGE SYSTEM OF NAVIGATION.
As it must be many years before the improvements mentioned in the
preceding discussion are conmpleted or even undertaken by the general
government, I will give a summary of the portages required to give a
contitnous line of river navigation from Snake River to Death Rapids,
the river remaining in its present condition.
River.  Portage.
Snake River to  Priest Rapids.............................................-..73
Portage around Priest Rapids...........-........-..................-....................  11
Priest Rapids to Cabinet Rapids.-..............-..........................  42
Portage around Cabinet and Rock Island Rapids —....... ---...........................  7
Rock Island Rapids to Foster Creek Rapids.... ---.-.. --- —-----------------—.......  90
Portage around Foster Creek and the rapids of the Nespilem Cation to Malhkin Rapids............................................ --- —-------—.. --- -27
Malhkin Rapids to Grand  Rapids.............................................  122
Portage from  Grand Rapids to above Little Dalles........................................  35
Little Dalles to Death  Rapids................................................  225
552      80
In the months of February and March, 1880, Capt. Alfred T. Pingstole, of the Oregon Railway and Navigation Company, examined the
Columbia from Kettle Falls to the Snake River. His examination was
made at a very low stage of water, which must account partially for the
difference in the descriptions of rapids, &c., as given in his report and in
this. Captain Pingstone is a practical steamboat mana and his opinions
are entitled to great weight.
CAPTAIN PINGST()NE'S REPORT (EXTRACT).
IMPROVEMENTS NECESSARY TO INSURE GOOD STEAMBOATING.
Proceeding up the Columbia from Ainsworth unltil Priest Rapids
are reached, the river is in an excellent boating condition during the
openl seasoli of the year; and by makillg an etasy portage of seven miles
vlv~  i'~~vr   r  r~r ( \rr   Z" n-I~~~r~




68                     COLUMBIA RIVER.
around these rapids, an equally nlavigable river is had for fifty miles to
Rock Island Rapids.
At Rock Island Rapids, by making a portage of eight miles, a clear
river to the mouth of the Okinagan, a distance of seventy-seven miles,
would be obtained. These two portages would give excellent navigation at all stages of water.
By making another portage of seven miles from the Okinagan to the
head of calion (no name) the river would be equally navigable to Hell
Gate, twenty miles below the mouth of the Spokane.
At Hell Gate, navigation would be doubtful at a high stage of water;
but for the proper kind of a steamboat it would be good for two-thirds
of the season. Should it be deemed advisable to construct a portage
road there, one about a mile long could easily be laid over a flat bench
on the left bank of the river.
The boat that would go through Hell Gate at a medium stage of water,
would go through to Grand Rapids, a distance of ninety miles above.
I have no hesitation in saying that, with the portages named, a stretch
of river 438 miles long (from Wallulla to Grand Rapids) would be, thrown
open to regular steamboat traffic that would be far better thanl Snake
River at even a moderately low stage of water.
In brief, the improvements necessary are:
Miles.
A portage at Priest Rapids of............................................. — -—.  7
A portage at Rock Islailnd Rapids of.............. —...... ----.................
A portage from the Okinagan to Iell Gate of................................ —.  7
22
And possibly at Hell Gate a portage of............................  I
For descriptions at these various rapids see diary.
FROM AINSWORTH TO KETTLE FALLS.
By the use of lines at a medium stage of water, a boat could be taken
from Ainsworth to Kettle Falls. Some risk would attelnd upon such an
enterprise; all would not be clear work; but withl care and Imoderate
good luck the feat could be performed without serious loss or damage.
FROM GRAND TO DEATH RAPIDS.
As will be seen by the table of distances inserted below, the construction of the portalges already suggested would give a navigable river for
427 mIiles above Walluia. I will state further that by the construction
of a portage six or seven miles in length around Grand Rapids and
Kettle Falls, a clear river up stream for twenty-four miles could be obtailned a  al a,lortage-which would not be necessary at a mledium stage
of water-of a little over a mile at the Dalles would insure good navigation to Death Rapids, a distance of 280 miles further north. I know
this from having navigated it with the steamer "49."




COLUMBIA RIVER                        69
Distances.
[Down stream.]
Miles.
From  Fort Colville to nontl  of Spokane...................-................. 70
From  Spokliale to Hell Gate  —..'...-........... --..... ---.......-. —...-....  20
From Hell Gate to head of cafion-.-......... - -----      80
From head to month of ca:ton.............................................-.. 12
From canon to month of Oki naganl..... —... —.....-................... —... —  1
From Okinagan to Chelan-............-................................... 3'2
From Chelan to head of Rock Island Rapids...... —... --- —.................... 45
From  Rock  Island throghl bad water.-................................... 8
From thence to head of Priest Rapidss. --—........ —................. 50
Fromi  head to foot of Priest Rapiils............. -...-.......................  9
Fromn foot of Priest Rapids to Ainsworth..............-..........................  89
427
DIARY.
February 28, 1881.-Having secured the services of two Pend d'Oreille
IndiLas, one of whomm, twenty years ago, had made the trilp down the
river when in the employ of tlhe HIIuson Bay Company, we left Kettle
Falls in a birch-bark canoe, which was about twenty-five feet long and
weighed eighty pounds. Kettle Falls are distant from Fort Colville
about fifteen miles. They are the most serious obstruction to navigation on this part of the Columbia, being a perpendicular fall of about
twenty feet at low water. We embarked in the morning at about eleven
o'clock, and proceeded thence down the river for about five miles, when
we arrived at Grand Rapids. The river is now at dead low water.
These rapids are about one and a half miles in length and have three
riffles. The upper and lower ones could be run by boats either up or
down stream without the use of lines, but the middle rapid hlas a fall
of about seven feet. It could be run at high water with a line. This
would be a proper landing for Fort Colville. We made a portage
around the rapid of about one hundred yards, and camped just below
Grand Rapids for the night.
March 1.-Left foot of Grand Rapids at 8:20. Three miles below
Rickey's Bar there is a high bench of rocks on the right bank of the
river coming down. These rocks are in the bend of the river and would
form an island at high-water with the channel on either side. It would
be no obstruction to navigation. On Rickey's Bar there is some drift, and
a few trees standing. Four miles below that, opposite what is called the
" Five thousand dollar claim," there is a heavy rapid-very strong waterwitlh bed-rock sticking up on both sides of the river; best channel at the
head of rapid is in middle of river, thence down left bank anld at the foot
to the right bank. The river is then good to Rogers' Bar, about thirty
miles below. Shoal riffle at Rogers' Bar. Just below Rogers' Bar there
is a large island of rocks, also a riffle running part way across, but a
good steamboat channel there. Below, about six miles, tlhere is another
bench of rocks with channel on the right bankl of the river. Three miles




70


COLUMBIA RIVER.


below that is another bench of rocks in the middle of the river; straight
channel about a hundred feet wide on right bank. There is a good country along the Columbia from Colville to this point, large flats and valleys
running into the river. Back of Rogers' Bar there is a settlement of
eight or ten families with promised additions from outside this spring.
From this point to Spokane River there is but little good land along the
Columbia. There are many bars with quite a number of Chinamen mining upon them. The river has many swift rapids in it, but none that a
powerful boat could not make. We camped eight miles above the
mouth of the Spokane River.
March 2.-Left camp at seven a. m. River very crooked; very swift;
many heavy rapids; mountains high and close in on the river, and
heavily timbered. Saw a good many Chinamen mining on the bars.
Arrived at Spokane River at nine a. m., and went up and took a look at
the new United States post. The Spokane is not navigable, but discharges considerable water. There is as much water in it as in the John
Day. The " post" is located on the south side of the Spokane about 2
miles from its mouth. There are three companies stationed there. The
location is good; it is on high table land, surrounded by scattering pine
timber. Was informed there that the country in the immediate vicinity
was settling up fast, and that it would support a large population.
Arrived back at the canoe at about three p. m.
Immediately above the mouth of the Spokane is a strong rapid. The
river (Columbia) at this point runs between two bars covered with very
large bowlders. The channel is straight; current very swift. It would
be all a boat could do to stem it at high-water, but by the use of lines for
one hundred yards she could make it. The river from this point down to
Virginia Bills, a distance of five miles, is very rapid. There are high rolling hills on the left, and mountains on the right. We camped five miles
below the mouth of the Spokane.
March 3.-Left Camp at seven a. m. Paddled the first fourteen miles
through a canon. The river is good-not more than a four-mile current.
Mountains very high and rocky. In many places the walls of rocks are
from 500 to 1,000 feet in height, rising perpendicularly from the river.
There is some mining carried on upon what few bars there are in the cai~on.
Atnine a. m. wearrived at Hell Gate. Here the channel makes acomplete
S. A boat could go through it now, but it looks as though it would be a
rough place during high water. There are two big islands of rocks in the
river a hundred feet high at this stage of water; a boat could get either
up or down. A quarter of a mile below Hell Gate a reef of rocks runs
nearly across the river. The channelis on the right bank. From thence
on down to a mile below mouth of Sam Poo-el [Sans-Poil] Creek, which
comes in from the right bank; the water is strong. Up to canping ground
(four miles below Sam Poo-el) the river was good. The timber extends
twenty miles below the mouth of the Spokane River. The hills along
the Columbia in the vicinity of tllis creek are much lower than above;




COLUMBIA RIVER.                    71
but there is not much good farming land in sight. The country looks
barren. No timber in view.
March 4.-Left camp at seven a. m. The mountains close in on the
river. Current very swift-from five to seven miles per hour. Tell miles
below the Nespilem there is a bad rapid in the bend of the river. Boats
could not ascend without the use of a line at this stage of water for at least
two hundred feet. Fromn thence on down to the head of the calon the
river is very rapid-high bluffs on one side, high bowlder-bar on the other.
For two miles down from head of cafon it is good steamboating. High
hills of rocks extend on both sides of the river for over a mile. You could
get a boat through this cafion, but it would not do to make a business
of running it; there would have to be a portage here. There is a good
location for a portage road on the right bank of the river; it could be run
across abend, and * * * it is twelve miles up river from the Okinagan
to the foot of the cainon. The road would have to leave the river a mile
above Fort Okinagan and cut across the country, striking the river at the
head of the cafion-a distance of about seven miles-easy grade over
bunch-grass hills-no timber. Fort Okinagan was formerly an important
post of the Hudson Bay Company, but is now abandoned. The Okinagan
enters the Columbia from the right bank, but, although a large stream, is
not navigable for steamboats except at high water, and then only to
Osooyoos Lake, seventy-five miles distant from Columbia River, located
in British Columbia.
March 5.-Left camp at mouth of Okinagan at seven a. m. Arrived at
mouth of Chelan River at eleven a. m., distant thirty-two miles, with only
three rapidls in that distance. One is about five miles below the Okilagan
in the bend of the river. Another rapid is located below the mouth of
the Methow River; good enough steamboating; big rocks on both sides;
some in the river; water very swift. There is another rapid about ten
miles above the Wenatchee-shoal water, bars and rocks. A few miles
below Chelan there is plenty of timber for wood. There are a good
iliany pine fiats along this part of the river that will be good for settlement. Camped ten miles above mouth of Wenatchee. The river I have
passed over to-day is in every way suitable for steamboating.
March 6. —Teft camp at 7:10 a. m. The river was good to the head of
Rock Island, a distance of twenty miles. The bad water commences
about three miles above what is called Rock Island. The Wenatchee
liver empties in from the right bank, and is a large body of water, but
not navigable. Rock Island Rapids, so called, are located in a callon two
miles ill length. This cafion contains many rocky islands. There is one
which rises from the river to the height of a hundred feet. Tills calion
would be a rough place for a boat to get through during high-water, but
during an ordinary stage is navigable. For two miles (between the
catnon and Rock Island proper) there is a good river. Rock Island Rapids proper are not navigable at this stage of water. Boats may be taken
up or down at a high stage of water-but always at great risk to the




72


COLUMBIA RIVER.


boats. There are two channels -the one on the right bank is widest.
The upper end is clear of rocks, but the lower end is crooked and full of
high bed-rock. It is cut up in many small channels and so rapid that a
steamboat could not stem it without the assistance of a line. The channel on the left bank ends in two little falls at this stage of water, but
it would be best to take a boat through at a little above a half stage.
Rock Island can never be successfully steamboated in its present condition, but at comparatively small expense can be made navigable at
low water. The water is bad for four miles below the island. One
place, particularly, is very narrow, crooked, and rocky, and has a fall
of five feet in three hundred.
The best farming country we have passed through to-day is the Wenatchee country. I was told by an old settler that there is room there
for quite a number of people. They are raising all kinds of grain and
fruit (even peaches) there. A good many high bars that we passed today would make good farming land. On the maillland timber is scarce;
it is a bunch-grass country. We camped about three miles below the island. A portage will probably be necessary at this point, commencing
about three miles below Rock Island Rapids, on the right bank, and
ending in about four miles. This portage road would pass over a high
flat with an easy grade-no excavation necessary if railroad were built
there.
March 7.-Left camp at 9:15. We broke our canoe yesterday, and
were some time in fixing it. The river is very good to-day. Found
only one rapid. It is called " Eagle Rapid " and is located about thirty
miles below Rock Island. It can be navigated by steamboats at all
stages of water. The river from Eagle to head of Priest Rapids is excellent for boating purposes. WeV camped at Priest Rapids at six p.
in. During the day's run found high banks on either side the entire
course. We passed the mouths of two coulees.
March 8.-Priest Rapids are about nine miles in length. They are
situated in a semicircular bend of the river. There are five ralpids in all
from the upper to the lower, inclusive. The water is very swift, but
the two riffles at the head are the worst. There is a stretch of five miles
of good water between the middle and lower riffles. The latter are full
of reefs and bowlders.
By the use of a line at a middle stage of water, a steamboat could
be taken over. A portage road across the bend over a flat bar on the
left bank of the river would be about seven lmiles-not to exceed that.
There is plenty of drift-Awood at the head of rapids. We ran the rapids
with our bark canoe, and camped at Ringgold Bar, about forty miles
from the mouth of Snake River. Excellent steamboalting from Priest
Rapids at all stages of water. Country on both sides of river, high
plateaus. On left bank, high " white bluffs" rising 180 to 2 0 feet; on
the right, a large flat plateau of bunch-grass country. Think it is good
land.
March 9.-Left camp at seven a. m. The river from here to mouth of




COLUMBIA RIVER.


73


Snake River is excellent at all stages of water for steamboating. We
arrived at Ainlsworth at twelve m., our journey ended. I proceeded to
Portland, taking the canoe which so safely has carried us to our destination, while my two Indian companions leave for Fort Colville overland, a distance of 210 miles.
Very respectfully,
ALFRED T. PINGSTONE.
CIIAPTER       VII.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE COLUMBIA AND ITS TRIBUTARIES.
In tile early development of a country its navigable rivers play a
very important part, furnishing natural highways for travel and trade,
and bases of operations from which the adventurous pioneer can extend
his researches after the unknown attractions of the wilderness. As the
polpulation and productions of the country increase, and railroads are
built in every direction, these artificial lines of communication make the
natural river lines of less relative importance. In the full and comnplete development, however, these water lines furnish transportation
for all the slow freight and surplus productions, and act as a regulator
upon all of the internal commerce of the country. Their great value in
this respect cannot be overestimated, and the general government has
for many years shown its wisdom by opening up and freeing from obstructions the natural water-courses within its domain as fast as they
are required by the demands of commerce.
The great country drained by the Columbia River is still in its infancy, and it is the cherished scheme of all who are alive to its best interests to see the whole river, or as much of it as is practicable, open
to free navigation, and the healthful competition which would grow
therefrom.
In these pages I have added as much as I am able to the knowledge
of the river and the country drained by it, and trust that it will be useful in any effort that may be made to secure the free navigation of the
whole of it, or at least of a very large portion.
Entering the Pacific Ocean near the forty-sixth degree of latitude,
this river forms a great arm of the ocean, up which sea-going vessels
can go for one hundred miles and more to the foot-hills of the great range
of mountains whose snow-clad summit peaks can be seen by tie sailor
as he nears the foaming breakers at the river's mouth.
The Columbia by means of its tributaries drains the western slope
of the Rocky Mountains, from about the forty-second to the fifty-third
parallel of north latitude, a distance of about 900 miles, and has a drainage basin aggregating almost 245,000 square miles.
S. Ex. 186 —10




74                     COLUMBIA RIVER.
The following table gives the areas drained in the different States and
Territories by the most important tributaries:


DRAINAGE AREAS.


Square miles.


Oregon:
Willamette (and Columbia below mouth of Willamette)................
Des Chutes................. ----..........................................
John Day, Willow Creek, and Walla Walla.......................
Snake River.-.............-..-.. —. ---...-...........
Washington Territory:
North side Columbia, below Snake....................
Columbia, above Snake................................................
Snake........................................................


12,600
10,000
12,600
17,200
8, 000
30,360
5,200


Idaho:
Columbia River.-...... —.....-. -..,.......... —......-... —........ 7,600
Snake River........... --- —----- --—.........                 70,040
Nevada, Snake River......................................................  6, 280
Wyoming, Snake River..,.................,..................-.........-..  5,184
Utah, Snake River......................-........ -.....-.-..... --—...  700
Montana, Columbia River.....-........... -.........-..-.. ---...... --. - -20, 800
British Columbia, Columbia River............................. —.......... 38, 395
Total area drained by Columbia-square miles............. —........ 244,959
This is an area larger than all the New England and Middle States,
with Maryland, Virginia, and West Virginia combined.          For purposes
of comparison, I give their areas as taken from the last Census Report:
Square miles.
Maine.. —... —...........................................  35, 000
New Hairipshire................-.................. —. 9, 280
Vermont....................-...............................  10, 212
Massachusetts..... —... ----..-. —..-.- -....... —..........-. 7,800
Connecticut............. -..-........................ 4,750
Rhode Island............................................ 1,306
-     68, 348
New  York.......................................................  47, 000
Pennsylvania..... —....-......-................................ 46,000
New  Jersey.................................................., 8, 320
Delaware........................................................  2,120
-    103,440
Maryland................-....... —...........-................   11,124
Virginia.....-..........................................-..........  38,348
W est Virginia...................................................  23,000
--         72, 472
Total square miles................................................  244, 260
I also give here for comparison the areas of the principal European
countries:
Square miles.
Great Britain and Ireland.........-...................................  121,230
France  --- -.. -........... -..........................................  201,900
Germany................................................................  212, 091
A   stria  Hungary............-................................  226,406
Italy.............................. -..............................  112, 677
Spain...................................................................   182,758




COLUMBIA RIVER.


75


The drainage area of the Columbia may also for convenience be divided as follows:
Square miles.
Snake River......................... ---..........-....  104,604
Upper Columbia above junction with Snake.............................. -- 97,155
Main Columbia below junction..........................................  43,200
Total................... -----—. —..... —..-..-.-....-  244,959
At a distance of 336 miles from the sea the main river is formed by
its two great branches, the southern one being now generally known as
the Snake and the northern as the Columbia.
THE SNAKE RIVER.
The Snake River takes its rise in the southern part of the Yellowstone
National Park, very near the headwaters of the Madison Fork of the
Missouri and the Green River branch of the Colorado, the former flowing to the Gulf of Mexico and the latter to the Gulf of California. From
its source the Snake takes a southwesterly course until it comes within
sixty miles of the present limits of the Great Salt Lake of Utah. It has
been clearly proven that this lake, in the years long gone by, was very
much larger than it now is, covering an immense extent of territory,
and that its waters found an outlet to the north into the Snake River
and thence to the Columbia and Pacific Ocean. The outlet of this ancient lake was determined and its boundaries traced by a party of the
Wheeler Survey, who gave to it the name of Lake Bonneville, after the
first and most illustrious explorer of this section of the country. The
gradual upheaval of the northern portion of the continent has taken
away the outlet and left the lake what it now is.
From the vicinity of the Great Salt Lake tlhe river takes a northwesterly course, flowing through a tremendous canion in which are numerous rapids and falls of great magnitude and beauty, ranking with Niagara and the falls of the Zambesi in Africa. The principal are the
Great Shoshone Falls, the American Falls, and Salmon Falls. A number of streams flow into the Snake from the lands to the south and west
of its course, principal among them being the Bruneau, Owyhee, Malheur,
Burnt, Powder, and Grand Ronde Rivers. The main branches from
the east are the Malade, Boise, Payette, Salmon, Clearwater, and Palouse Rivers.
Nearly all the streams flowing into the Snake may be characterized
as mountain torrents flowing through deep canions, entirely unnavigable
and with very little valley lands along their courses.
Some of them deserve more than a passing mention, especially the
Salmon, the principal tributary of the Snake. It drains a large extent
of country and joins the Snake about fifty miles above Lewiston, and
flows through probably the deepest, grandest, and most impassable
cation of any stream of corresponding magnitude in thle world.
Nowhere on earth can there be a scene more grand, gloomy, and deso



76


COLUMBIA RIVER.


late than where these two rivers join their waters. Both come flowing
down with torrential velocity through canions 3,000 feet in depth, with
ragged, black, and almost vertical sides, the milk-white waters of the
Snake coursing alongside the clear blue Salmon water for a half mile or
more before they finally mingle among the jagged rocks of the stupendous caion below.
At Lewiston the Clearwater adds its waters, and it is from this point
to its mouth that the Snake is at present navigable and navigated by
steamers. Steamers can pass, however, nearly up to the mouth of the
Grand Ronde, thirty miles above Lewiston; but as there is nothing to
call them up they do not now traverse this portion of the river.
A steamer has been run up the Snake for about eighty miles above
Lewiston, occupying fourteen days in making the ascent, of which thirteen were taken up in making the last thirty-five miles. The run down
was made in one day; I was once informed in five hours. This illustrates
the character of the Snake River for purposes of navigation.
The Palouse is the lowest tributary of the Snake, and, although not
of any importance as a large stream, it drains an exceedingly fertile
a(ed promising country. A large proportion of the best fartinlg lands
of Eastern Washington Territory lie along the Palouse and its tributary
streams.
THE UPPER COLUMBIA.
The great northern branch which unites with the Snake to form the
main river is designated as the Columbia, or in contradistinction to the
lower river, as the Upper Columbia.
Amid the universal gloom and midnight silence of the north, a little
above the fifty-second parallel of latitude, seemingly surrounded on all
sides by cloud-piercing snow-clad mountains, and nestled down in
among the lower and nearer cedar-mantled hills, there lies a narrow
valley where three streams meet and blend their waters, one coming
from the southeast, one from the northwest, and one from the east.
Tihe principal one of these three streams is the one from the soutleast,
which rises in a small lake near the fiftieth parallel of latitude, and
flows to the northwest in a deep gap between the main Rocky Mountain
chain on the east and the Selkirk Range on the west, to the point of
junction, and is the headwater stream of, and bears the name of the
Columbia. It is about one hundred and eighty miles long, and is said
to be navigable for more than half the way.
The northwestern stream is the extreme northern branch of the Columbia, rising beyond the fifty-third parallel of latitude, and is known
among the fur traders and voyageurs as Canoe River, from the excellence
of the bark procured on its banlks for canoe building. This is a small
river, forty yards wide at its mouth, flowing through a densely timbered
valley in which the trees overhang the stream to such an extent as
almost to shut it out from the light of heaven, and attain an enormous




COLUMBIA RIVER.


77


size, particularly the pines and cedars, one of the latter, measured by
Alexander Ross, being forty-five feet four inches in girth at a height of
four feet from the ground.
Portage River, the third of this trio of streams, the smallest and the
most remarkable of them, is the one which enters from the east. It has
its source in the very heart of the Rocky Mountains and flows through
a tremendous cleft in the main range between two of its loftiest peaks,
Mounts Brown and Hooker. Just underneath these giant mountains,
on the divide known as " The Height of Land," lie two small lakes, each
about thirty yards in diameter, and which are only a few yards from eaclh
other. One has its outlet to the west, Portage River, flowing to the
Columbia; the other has its outlet to the east, Whirlpool River, a branch
of tile Athabasca, which joins the Mackenzie and flows to the Arctic
Ocean.
The elevated valley in which these lakes are situated is called tihe
Committee's Punch Bowl, and the nabobs of the fur trade always treated
their companions to a bucket of punch when this place was reached, if
they had the ingredients of which to make it, and they usually had.
The l)ass across the mountains by the Portage River, the Committee's
Punch Bowl, and Whirlpool River, known as the Athabasca Pass, was
for many years the principal route of the British fur traders in going
from one side of the Rocky Mountains to the other. This route is flar
from being an easy one, and a description of the difficulties, (dangers,
and discomforts attendent upon a trip over it will certainly deter any
one from making the journey for pleasure. A great part of the way the
traveler has to wade up to his middle in the icy waters of the Portage
River. The journey had to be made in thle spring before the summer
thaws and rains set in, or in the autumn after severe cold weathler lad
locked up the mountain drainage. During the summer tle streamn becomes an impetuous impassable mountain torrent. Alexander Ross,
after making the journey from the Columbia to the Athabasca, thus
pictures the delights of the journey up Portage River:
Let the reader picture in his own mind a dark, narrow defile, skirted on one side by
a chain of inaccessible mountains rising to a great height, covered with snow, nlnd
slippery with ice from their tops down to the water's edge; and on the other side a
beach comparatively low, but studded in an irregular manner with standing and fallen
trees, rocks, and ice, and full of drift-wood, over which the torrent everywhere rushles
with such irresistible impetuosity that very few would dare to adventure themselves
in the stream. Let him again imagine a rapid river descending from some great
height, filling up the whole channel between the rocky precipices on the south, and
the no less dangerous barrier on the north; and lastly, let him suppose that we were
olbliged to make our way on foot against such a torrent, by crossing and recrossing it
in all its turns and windings, from morning till night, up to the imiddle in water, and
lie will understand the difficulties to be overcome in crossing the Rocky Mountains.
Thle junction of tile three streams above alluded to is known as Boat
Elncampment. From this point the Colulmbia flows nearly due soutl for
about four hundred miles, to where it makes its great bend to the west
at the mouth of the Spokane liver.




78


COLUMBIA RIVER.


For the first one hundred and fifty miles of its course it flows, as a
general thing, through a deep caiion, closely shut in on each side by
towering mountains so near to each other as to confine the view to the
rocky heights on each side and the sky above. Numbers of small streams
come into the main river from the east and west, and generally their
waters come in over some towering cliff in the form of a cataract, some
of which are very curious and beautiful. One, coming into the river
just above the Dalles des Morts, is described by a visitor* as follows:
A little after starting we backed our paddles and stood still for some minutes admiring a striking natural curiosity on the east side. The water of a cataract creek,
after shooting over the brink of a bold precipice, falls in a white sheet on to a broad
flat rock, smooth as glass, which forms the first step; then upon a second, some ten
feet lower down, and lastly, on a third, somewhat lower. It then enters a subterraneous vault, formed at the mouth like a funnel, and after passing through this funnel
it again issues forth with a noise of distant thunder. After falling over another
step it meets the front of a bold rock, which repulses back the water with such violence as to keep it whirling round in a large basin. Opposite to this rises the wing of
a shelving cliff, which overhangs the basin and forces back the rising spray, refracting in the sunshine all the colors of the rainbow. The creek then enters the Columbia.
Numerous islands exist in the river, some of them   remarkable for
being formed almost, if not entirely, from drift-wood, compressed by
the force of the current so closely and solidly together that it seems to
have been laid in tiers as by the hand of man. The Selkirk Range,
whose jagged, craggy peaks are from 7,000 to 9,000 feet high, lies to the
east of the river. To the west lies the low Gold Range from 2,000 to
5,000 feet high, and beyond this and between it and the Okinakane and
the Thompsoa Rivers the country is generally rolling and covered with
bunch grass.
At a distance of about seventy miles from Boat Encampment there is
a very bad system of rapids, known to the voyageurs as the Dalles des
Morts. They are about two miles long from end to end. Many a poor
fellow has closed his earthly career by intrusting himself in their
treacherous waters, and a number of solitary graves are here to be seen,
and names of victims never found are carved on the surrounding rocks.
At a distance of about twenty-three miles from the Dalles des Morts,
down the river, there is a remarkable height on the east side of the
river, partly covered with snow and partly with numerous towering
rocks, broken fragments, peaks, and serrated ranges, resembling the
turrets, domes, spires, and steeples of a city in ruins. The mist hanging
over the place adds to the deception, and the longer this City of Rocks
is looked at the more complete becomes the illusion.
Twenty-two miles below the City of Rocks are the Little Dalles, or
Narrows, where for about a mile the river is almost completely shut in
by mountains and rocks. This is passable by steamers, however, while
at the Dalles des Morts steamers are unable to ascend.
Along this portion of the riverthere occurred in the year 1817 one of
Ross.




COLUMBIA RIVER.


79


those terrible episodes of frontier life, at the thought of which the heart
turns sick. On the 16th of April of this year, a party of twenty-three
men left Fort George, now Astoria, to ascend the Columbia and cross
the Rocky Mountains by the Athabasca Pass. On the 27th of May
they arrived at the mouth of the Portage REiver, or Boat Encampment,
after the most severe labors and exposure in dragging their canoes
up the rapids and making their way along the rocky shores. Seven
men of the party were so weak, sick, and worn out, that they were unable to proceed across the mountains; so they were given the best canoe
and some provisions and sent back down the river to Spokane House.
After leaving the Rocky Mountains they went rapidly down the river
until the Dalles des Morts were reached. Here, in passing their boat
down over the rapids by a line, it was caught in a whirlpool and the
line snapped, and the boat and all its contents of provisions, blankets,
&c., was irrevocably lost. Here the poor fellows found themselves
utterly destitute, and at a season of the year when it was impossible to
procure any wild fruit or roots. The continual rising of the water coImpletely inundated the beach, which compelled them to force their way
through a dense forest, rendered almost impervious by a thick growth
of prickly underbrush. Their only nourishment was water. On the
third day Magon died, and his surviving comrades, though unconscious
how soon they might be called on to follow him, divided his remains
into equal parts, on which they subsisted for several days. From the
sore and swollen state of their feet, their daily progress did not exceed
two or three miles. Holmes, the tailor, shortly followed Magon, and they
continued for some time longer to sustain life on his emaciated body.
In a little while of the seven men only two remained alive, Dubois and La
Pierre. La Pierre was subsequently found on the borders of the Upper
Lake of the Columbia by two Indians who were coasting it in a canoe.
They took him on board and to Kettle Falls, from whence he was conducted to Spokane House. He stated that after the death of the fifth
manl of the party, Dubois and he continued for some days at the spot
where he had ended his sufferings, and on quitting it they loaded themselves with as much of his flesh as they could carry; that with this they
succeeded in reaching the Upper Lake, around the shores of which they
wandered for some time in search of Indians; that their horrid food at
length became exhausted, and they were again reduced to the prospect
of starvation; that on the second night after their last meal, hlie (La
Pierre) observed something suspicious in the conduct of Dubois, which
induced him to be on his guard; and that shortly after they had lain
down for the night, and while he feigned sleep, he observed Dubois
cautiously opening his clasp knife, with which he sprung oil him, and
inflicted on his hand the blow which was evidently intended for his
neck. A silent and desperate conflict followed, in which, after severe
struggling, La Pierre succeeded in wtesting the knife from his antago



80


COLUMBIA RIVER.


nist, and having no other resource left, he was obliged in self-defense to
cut Dubois's throat, and that a few days afterward he was discovered
by the Indians as above mentioned.*
At a distance of thirty-seven miles below the Little Narrows the head
of the Upper Arrow Lake is reached. This is an enlargement of the
river, in which, however, very little current is to be detected. It is
about thirty-three miles long and three wide. The view along this portion of the river is much more open and the country more level than
along the river to the north.
For about sixteen miles the river narrows somewhat until the Lower
Arrow Lake. is reached. This lake is two and a half miles wide and
about forty-two miles long, and is a beautiful sheet of water.
About ten or twelve miles below the southern extremity of the Lower
Arrow Lake there comes in from the east the Kootenay River, the largest branch of the Upper Columbia. This river pursues a very circuitous course and drains a large extent of mountainous country. It rises
inear the fifty-first parallel of latitude and pursues a southerly course for
three hundred and fifty miles to the old Kootenay Fort. Here it makes
a great bend to the northwest, and after flowing in this direction two
hundred miles it makes another turn to the southwest, and in fifty or
sixty miles distance reaches the Columbia. Just before making this
last turn it flows through a lake about seventy-five miles long and from
two to five broad, similar to the Arrow Lakes of the Columbia. This
Kootenay Lake and a great part of the river is navigable, but in the
lower portion of its course it breaks through the Selkirk range of
mountains and has many rapids and falls, one fall of fifteen feet being
a short distance from the Columbia. Its principal tributaries are the
Mooyic, the Yakh, and the Tobacco rivers, all small streams. This
is the first of the tributaries of the Columbia which flows in any portion of its course within the territory of the United States, a great
portion of its angular southern bend lying south of the forty-ninth parallel.
The headwaters of the Kootenay are within a very small distance of
the headwaters of the Bow River, a tributary of the, Saskatchewan, which
flows to Hudson's Bay.
Just north of the forty-ninth parallel, and about twenty-four miles
down from the mouth of the Kootenay, there enters the Pend 'Oreille
River or Clarke's Fork from the east. This is the longer and by far the
most important branch of the Upper Columbia, although it is doubtful
if it flows as much water as the Kootenay. It drains all that portion of
the country lying between the Rocky and the Bitter Root Mountains.
The Flathead River is its principal northern tributary; risingin British
Columbia it flows south, through Flathead Lake, a magnificent sheet of
water, and unites with the Missoula River to form the main Pend d'Oreille.
Ross Cox.




COLUMBIA RIVER.


81


Joshua Pilcher, one of the early explorers of this country, says of this
Flathead Lake:
It is about thirty-five miles in length by five or six in width. This lake communicates with Clarke's River and is formed by its northern branch. It is surrounded by
lofty mountains, whose summits are in many cases covered with perpetual snow. It
lies in a valley, which is extensive, rich, and would support a considerable population. The valley itself is covered with luxuriant grass, and the foot of the mountains with a variety of timber and vegetation indicating the richest soil.  * *
The upper parts of Clarke's River issue from rugged mountains covered with almost
impenetrable forests of pine and cedar, but there are several situations on this river
which would admit of settlements to a considerable extent; and though not comparable in fertility of soil to the rich lands of Missouri and Illinois, yet superior to many
of the inhabited and cultivated parts of the Atlantic States, where powerful conmunities have grown up. The Flathead Lake and its rich and beautiful valley are
on this fork, and vie in appearance with the beautiful lakes and valleys of Switzerland. At the foot of the mountains, according to information, there is a belt or strip
of fertile land, similar to what is seen at the foot of the Alleghany and Blue Ridge.
The Saint Regis Borgia, Bitter Root, Hell Gate, Big Blackfoot, and
Deer Lodge rivers are the main feeders of the Missoula.
It is a singular fact that all the large rivers of the north, in some portion of their course, open out into a lake or lakes; it is so with the Pend
d'Oreille River, the lake of the same name being an enlargement of
the river with a great arm to the south.
This lake is crossed by the forty-eighth parallel of latitude and is
situated wholly within the territory of Idaho. This river is of great
importance, furnishing, as it does, a practicable and easy pass across
the Bitter Root Mountains for a railroad, which is being utilized by
the Northern Pacific Railroad Company. The Pend d'Oreille Lake and
the river in its vicinity are navigable; no other portions of the river are,
as far as I have been able to learn.
At its mouth the river is about fifty yards wide, and pours itself into
the Columbia in one fine foaming sheet over a ledge of rocks eight or
ten feet high, which bars it across from side to side.
Pursuing its course to the southward through a most beautiful country, the next tributary of importance coming into the Columbia is the
Spokane River, which drains a large portion of the country west of the
Bitter Root Mountains, is the outlet of Coeur d' Alene Lake, and, flowing
westward, reaches the Columbia where it makes its big bend to the
west. No other stream comes into the left bank of the Columbia until
it is joined by the Snake.
Several small streams draining the country of the Colville Indians
flow from the north, but none of any magnitude until the Okinakane is
reached. This noble river is the outlet of a mountain-environed lake,
about eighty miles in length, lying between 49~ 30' and 50~ 30' north
latitude. There are a number of beautiful lakes in the course of the
river below the large fountain lake.
From the region of the Cascade Mountains, and draining their eastern
slopes, several streams come in to swell the Columbia-the Methow,
S. Ex. 186    11




9


82                     COLUMBIA RIVER.
Chelan, Entatqua, Wenatchee, and Yakima, being the only ones worthy
of notice.
Shortly after joining the Snake the Columbia makes a great bend to
the west and receives in succession the Walla Walla, Umatilla, John
Day, Des Chutes, Klikitat, Willamette, Cowlitz and other rivers and
streams, and, after breaking through the Cascade Mountains, in a gorge
unsurpassed on earth for beauty and grandeur, in latitude 460 15' it
pours its fresh majestic flood through the white-capped breakers of its
bar into the placid western ocean.
CHAPTER VIII.
HISTORY OF THE DISCOVERY AND EXPLORAZTION OF THE COL UMBIA4
RIVER.
About the same time in the eventful year of 1492 that the indomitable energy and genius of Columbus was rewarded by his discovery of
a new world, a conclave of cardinals at Rome rewarded an almost unparalleled course of hypocrisy by electing Alexander VI Pope of Rome.
The temporal power of the Roman Church began about this time to
topple and to take its downward course to the pitiful condition which it
occupies at present. Alexander VI, "the incarnation of the secular
spirit of the papacy," made grand efforts to re-establish and perpetu;ate
the temporal power of the church, yet, notwithstanding all his efforts,
this successor of Peter appears for the last time in history as the undisputed bestower of kingdoms and the ultimate tribunal of appeal for
Christian nations. Spain and Portugal resorted to him for the adjustment of their claims to the new world; by tracing a line on a map he disposed of three-fourths of the human race, and more than three-fourths
of the world of land and water.
Never, according to medieval ideas, had a Pope exerted his prerogative with equal grandeur to that when Alexander VI bestowed upon the
two greatest maritime powers of Europe, to each one-half of the Pagan
world of land and water and human beings; that world then just beginning to be dimly seen by the light of the magnificent discoveries of
Columbus and his successors.
Upon these extraordinary grants was founded the celebrated treaty
of partition of the ocean, concluded in 1794, by which the Portuguese
were to enjoy and possess the exclusive rights of discovery, trade, conquest, and dominion in all the seas and territories not previously belonging to a Christian prince or people, east of a meridian line passing
three hundred and seventy leagues west of the Cape Verde Islands, and
the Spaniards were to possess all seas and all Pagan lands west of that
line.
The two nations having thus, under the sanction and guarantee of the
highest power in Europe, settled the conditions by which they appropri



COLUMBIA RIVER.                     83
ated to themselves the entire Pagan world, without regard to the claims
or desires of anybody else, each continued its search for a navigable
passage to India.
The Portuguese were soonest successful, by sailing around the southern extremity of Africa, and establishing their colonies and influence in
many of the regions of Southern Asia. They also obtained possession
of Brazil, which was found to lie to the east of the dividing meridian,
very much to the exasperation of the Spaniards, who had expected by
the treaty of partition to have exclusive dominion over the countries
lying to the west of the Atlantic.
The Spaniards labored with great earnestness and success in planting
colonies in the West Indies, and in exploring the coasts in the vicinity,
which they soon ascertained to be the borders of a great continent.
With the object of ascertaining the extent of this continent, they persevered in their examinations, in which they were encouraged by the
constant assurance of the natives of the coasts and islands respecting
the existence of a great sea and rich and powerful nations towards the
setting sun.
In the year 1513 this great sea was discovered near where Panama
now stands by Vasco Nunez de Balboa. This was naturally supposed to
be the Southern Ocean which bathed the shores of India, and as its
proximity to the Atlantic was at the same time ascertained, it was very
reasonably hoped that the two oceans would be found to be connected
in such a manner as to afford a speedy and safe passage for ships from
one to the other. This hope found encouragement in the fact that a
Portuguese navigator named Cortereal claimed that in 1499 and 1500 he
sailed through a narrow channel, named by him the Straits of Anian,
into another great sea communicating with the Southern or Indian
Ocean.
The great hope was, however, dispelled, as the explorations soon proved
conclusively the entire separation of the oceans in the regions near the
West Indies.
In the year 1520 Fernando Magellan discovered and sailed through
the strait bearing his name, south of the American continent, into the
great ocean discovered by Balboa, and proceeding westward, India was
reached, and for the first time in the history of mankind the world was
circumnavigated.
This route for reaching India by the Straits of Magellan was not satisfactory, owing to its length, difficultics, and dangers, and the search
was still continued for other and more direct channels from the Atlantic
to the Southern Ocean.
The wealthy and powerful Empire of Mexico was discovered in 1518,
and a few years after it was conquered for the Spanish Crown by Hernando Cortes, after one of the most heroic and cruel campaigns recorded
in human annals.
WMhen the conquest of Mexico had been completed the Spaniards im.




84


COLUMBIA RIVER.


mediately turned their attention to the northwestern coast of America.
Their expeditions by sea and land in that direction were numerous, and
Cortes himself set the example by undertaking several of the earliest
at his own expense and conducting one of them in person. The Emperor
had exhorted him to explore the northern seas in search of " the secret"
of a strait which should abridge the voyage from Spain to the East Indies,
and he willingly engaged in the new enterprises of extending the Spanish power into other and as yet unexplored regions, and of solving, perhaps, the long-studied problem of a direct northern passage by water to
Cathay.
The belief in the existence of such a northwest passage to India, joining the Atlantic in the position variously assigned to Cortereal's Straits
of Anian, was wide spread among the maritime nations of Europe, and,
all joining in the search, many voyages of discovery were made along
both coasts of North America during the sixteenth and seventeenth
centuries. Many false reports of the discovery of the desired channel
were circulated, the effects of which reports were to spur all to greater
exertions, and to promote very materially the explorations in the western world.
Foremost among all on the western coasts were the Spaniards, urged
on by the indomitable Cortes. He and his successors on the vice-regal
throne of Mexico gradually extended the knowledge of the coasts. The
vacillating and selfish policy of Spain, however, greatly hindered her
own subjects from pursuing their explorations with vigor, and her claim
to exclusive dominion over all the western world deterred mariners of
other nations from making persistent efforts.
Until the beginning of the seventeenth century the Spanish navigators pushed their voyages of discovery as far as they could along the
coasts of Western America, and then they ceased almost entirely for
a hundred years and more, owing to the change in the policy of Spain.
She had ceased to desire the existence of a northwest passage from
Europe to the Pacific, because, though such a passage might in some
respects be useful to her, it would be greatly more injurious to her in
other respects, inasmuch as it would bring down upon her possessions
in the Pacific and Indian Seas the piratical cruisers of the northern
nations of Europe. The expeditions of Drake and Cavendish had shown
that the circuit of Cape Horn did not furnish to Spain a complete
security for her possessions in the Pacific. Still more alarming would
have been their insecurity if accessible by an easy passage from the
vicinity of Hudson's Bay.
In this connection, and illustrating the policy of Spain, it may be interesting to know that in the time of Philip II it was proposed to cut a
canal through the isthmus of Panama for the passage of ships from one
ocean to the other, and two Flemish engineers were sent to examine
the place with that object. They, however, found the obstacles insuperable, and the Council of the Indies at the same time represented to the




COLUMBIA RIVER.                    85
King the injuries which such a canal would occasion to the monarchy,
in consequence of which his majesty decreed that no one should in
future attempt, or even propose, such an undertaking under penalty of
death.*
All this time the Columbia was pouring its undiscovered waters into
the Pacific, and the Spanish and English navigators who ventured into
this western ocean went blindly by it.
Discovery in the North Pacific was revived by Russia, who, in consequence of her Asiatic possessions, very naturally turned her attention
to the opposite coast of America. The voyage of Behring and Tschirikow, in 1728, 1729, and 1741, led to a more exact knowledge of the relative bearings of the Asiatic and American coasts in the high northern
latitudes, and to the Russian establishments on the Aleutian Islands
and the promontory of Alaska.
These events alarmed Spain and stimulated England, and the numer
ous voyages of these two nations to the northwest coast ensued.
Passing by those voyages which added nothing to the knowledge of
the Columbia, or gave no clue to its existence, we come to the years
1774 and 1779, when three exploring voyages were made by order of the
Spanish Government, in which the west coasts of America were examined as far north as the sixtieth degree of latitude. The second of these
voyages was under the command of Capt. Bruno Hecata, and he, on the
15th of August, 1775, arrived opposite an opening, in the latitude 460
17', from which rushed a current so strong as to prevent his entering it.
This circumstance convinced him that it was the mouth of some great
river, or, perhaps, of the straits of Fuca, which might have been erroneously placed on his chart. He in consequence remained in its vicinity
another day in the hope of ascertaining the true character of the place,
but, being still unable to enter the opening, he continued his voyage
towards the south.
On the opening in the coast thus discovered Hecata bestowed the
name of Ensenada de Asuncion, or Assumption Inlet, calling the point
on its north side Cape San Roque, and that on the south Cape Frondoso,
or Leafy Cape. In the charts published in Mexico soon after the conclusion of the voyage, the entrance is called En Selada de Hecata, or Hecata's
Inlet, and Rio de San Roque; or river of Saint Roc. It was undoubtedly
the mouth of the great river of the western side of America; the same
which was, in 1792, first entered by the ship Columbia, from Boston,
under the command of Robert Gray, and has ever since been called the
Columbia. The evidence of its first discovery by Hecata on the 15th
of August, 1775, is unquestioned.
By this time the power of Spain in the New World had become very
much reduced, owing to the continual and daring warfare and explorations carried on by the gallant sailors of Britain and her American
colonies.
* Greenhow.




86


COLUMBIA RIVER.


The Pacific was now open to the adventurous sailors and traders of
all nations.
In the mean time the English and French, and their American descendants, had been pushing their discoveries to the west from the Atlantic coasts, and each year saw something added to the knowledge of
the great interior of America. To the French and Belgian officers and
missionaries must be given the credit for the most extended and daring
explorations and surveys.
From the Indians among whom they sojourned they derived a vague
knowledge of a great river flowing to the west, and upon nearly all the
maps of America published during the early part of the eighteenth century may be found one or more such rivers represented. These rivers
were given the name of River of the West, River Thegaya, River Aguilar,
or some other, and were represented on the authority of accounts received from the Indians, or of erroneous or fabulous accounts of voyages
along the North Pacific coasts.
Capt. Jonathan Carver, of Connecticut, spent the years 1766-'67-'6S
among the Indians of the Upper Mississippi, and ten years later published an account of his travels, &c., in which he several times speaks
of this as the great river of the west, or the Oregon, or Origan.
This is the first mention of the name Oregon. Mr. Greenhow says
that much labor has been expended in vain to discover its meaning and
derivation, and that it was most probably invented by Carver.
Although it does not seem possible to determine with certainty the
origin of the word Oregon, it does not seem at all probable that it is a
meaningless word invented or coined by Carver.
It has been claimed, and not without some reason, that it is from the
Spanish word Oregano, the wild marjoram, Origanum Vulgare L, found
growing in abundance along the coasts. It also may be from the Spanish word Oreja, the ear, or some of its derivatives, as Orejon, or Orejowes,
signifying dried fruits, and in the familiar language of Spain signifies
dog's-ears, an ear-pulling, &c. A derivative word Orejera signifies a sort
of ear-ring worn by Indians.
Carver did not write his book until ten years after he finished his
travels and returned to England, and it is very probable that he heard
the word or saw it in some Spanish chronicle and made use of it in his
own narrative.
The expeditionwhich left England in 1776, under the command of
the intrepid navigator, Capt. James Cook, made known to the world
the immense profits which could be derived from the commerce in furs
between the Pacific coasts of America and China. In this trade were
soon engaged a number of ships sailing under various flags and comn
manded by men of different nationalities, but principally by Englishmen.
Captain Meares, sailing in 1788 under the flag of the British East
India Company, searched for Hecata's river of Saint Roc, but, instead




COLUMBIA RIVER.


87


of finding the river, he found in the place where it was located on the
Spanish charts a large bay, which he was unable to enter and to which
he gave the name of Deception Bay; to the northern promontory he
gave the name of Cape Disappointment, which name it still bears. He
explicitly denied the existence of any such river as the Saint Roc.
In the summer of 1787 the Columbia and Washington, commanded
by John Kendrick and Robert Gray, were fitted out in Boston for trade
on the northwest coast. The Washington, commanded by Gray, made
the northwest coast in August, 1788, near the forty-sixth degree of latitude, where she came near being destroyed in her efforts to enter an
opening, which was most probably the mouth of the great river afterwards called by her commander the Columbia.
Gray remained on the coast during 1789, engaged in explorations and
trading voyages, in the course of which he "entered and sailed up a
great arm of the sea for fifty miles in a southeast direction and foundt
the passage five leagues wide." This was the Strait of Juan de Fuca,
discovered by the old Greek pilot in 1592, and seen, but not entered,
by Berkeley in 1787.
In the latter part of the year (1789) Gray sailed in command of the
Columbia to China, which he reached in December, and from thence
sailed around the Cape of Good Hope, and arrived in Boston August
10, 1790, having carried the flag of the United States for the first time
around the world.
Kendrick, in command of the Washington, remained and made examinations of the northwest coasts, and must be considered as the first
person belonging to a civilized nation who sailed entirely through the
Straits of Fuca after its discovery by the Greek pilot in 1592. He sailed
to the eastward through the Strait of Fuca, then northwestward through
the Straits of Georgia and Queen Charlotte's Sound to the Pacific, thus
establishing the insulation of Vancouver Island.
In September, 1790, Gray, still in command of the Columbia, sailed
from Boston, and in June, 1791, arrived on the northwest coast and remainled, trading and exploring about Queen Charlotte's Island, until the
spring of 1792, when he took his departure on an expedition southward
along the coast. Returning to the northward, he, on the 29th of April,
met Vancouver near the Straits of Fuca, and, among other things, informed him that in the latitude 46o 10' he had been off the mouth of a
large river, where the outsetting current was so strong as to prevent his
entering it, although for nine days he tried to do so.
Vancouver and his lieutenant, Broughton, had just finished a very
careful examination of the coast from Cape Mendocino to the Straits of
Fuca; had noticed the Deception Bay of Meares, in latitude 460 19', and
that here the sea changed from its natural to river-colored water, but
did not consider the opening worthy his attention, and from the line of
breakers deemed it inaccessible. He records his emphatic disbelief in




88                     COLUMBIA RIVER.
the existence of any safe port or large river along the part of the coast
examined by him.
After parting with the English ship, Gray sailed along the coast to
the south, determined to solve the question of the existence of the river.
He went first into a safe and commodious harbor, now known as Gray's
Harbor, and on the 11th of May he entered his desired port, running in,
with all sails set, between the breakers (which had been pronounced
impassable by Meares and Vancouver), and came to anchor in a large
river of fresh water, ten miles above its mouth. He afterward, keeping
along the northern bank, proceeded up the river for twelve or fifteen
miles further, at which point, having taken the wrong channel, he turned
back and spent a week in vain attempts to get back to sea befori he
succeeded.
On leaving the river, Gray gave it the name of his ship, the Columbia. Attempts have been made to fix upon it the name of Oregon from
Carver's indistinct narrative, but have not succeeded. Gray gave the
name of Point Adams to the southern point and Cape Hancock to the
northern point at the river mouth.
This first discovery and entrance into the Columbia River by Gray,
an American, gave the United States their principal claim to the territory drained by the river, and is thus a very important episode in the
history of the river and of the country known as the Oregon region.
After leaving the Columbia, Gray fortunately met with the Spanish
Commander Quadra, to whom he gave an account of his discovery and
a chart of the mouth of the Columbia. In the controversy which afterward arose between the United States and Great Britain for the possession of Oregon, 4 it was this chart that outflanked the scheming of
Vancouver and gave the broad estate of silver-tented Hood to free
America." *
In October of the same year, 1792, Lieutenant Broughton entered the
month of the Columbia in the Chatham and found there the brig Jenny,
from Bristol. Broughton examined the river for about one hundred
miles from its mouth, going up it in a small boat to about where the
town of Vancouver now stands.
The discoveries of Gray, Vancouver, Broughton, Kendrick, and others,
added largely to the knowledge of the country and attracted the attention of mariners and merchants.
Many vessels were now employed in carrying on the trade with the
Indians. This trade, owing to the peculiar relations existing among
the nations of Europe and their colonies, both with each other and with
China, was almost entirely in the hands of citizens of the United States,
and it is certain that previous to the establishment of Astoria in 1811
many vessels entered the Columbia.
After the transfer of the French possessions in America to the United
States in 1803, the government of our country, under the enlightened
Simpson.




COLUMBIA RIVER.                     89
and far-seeing Jefferson, became imbued with the desire of obtainilng
an accurate knowledge of its new western territory, with a view to the
ultimate objects of colonization and commerce. In furtherance of this
desire a number of expeditions were fitted out, whose explorations resulted in geographical discoveries of great importance.
By far the most important of these expeditions was the one intrusted
to the command of Captains Lewis and Clarke, who were directed to
ascend the Missouri, cross the Rocky Mountains, and trace the Columbia,
the great river of the west, from its sources to the sea, and determine
thus the most direct and practicable water communication for the purposes of commerce.
Probably no two men ever had a task given them of greater difficulty
and magnitude, and involving the exercise of mnore skill, wisdom, intrepidity, discretion, and all imanly attributes, and which, after an " experience epic in the grandeur of its unwitnessed valor,7 was carried to a
complete and successful termination, than htad these two men, Captains
Lewis and Clarke.
The history of lman furnishes few instances in which so much has beenl
added in so short a space to the geographical knowledge of the world,
and which has stood the test of time like that gathered and recorded by
them. These travelers began the ascent of the Missouri in 18044 and
sleIt the winter of 1804-1805 at Fort Mandan. The next season they
continued up the Missouri to the three forks, called by them Jeffersonl,
Madison, aLnd Gallatin; they continued on up the Jefferson Fork and
crossed over to the west and struck the Salmon River. This they found
they could not descend, owing to its deep cafions, falls, and rapids, rand
so they went north, and after great suffering among the mountains they
reached thA Kooskooskee or Clearwater, where it is navigable for canoes.
They made boats and proceeded down this stream to its junction with
the Snake River, and on downl this great branch to the main Columbia,
which they explored to its mouth, reaching the Pacific in December,
1805. They remained during the winter of 1805-1806 near the mouth
of the Columbia, and returned the next season by nearly the same route
by which they had come.
Thus, only seventy-five years ago, was this river in its upper portions
first navigated by white men. Their dug-out canoes are now replaced
by stately steamers bearing great loads of precious grain from the most
fertile regions on the earth, then occupied and roamed over alone by
savage men and beasts.
For crossing the plains and mountains the iron horse has replaced its
more frail and fleshly brother, and the scream of steam is now heard
proclaiming the doom of savagery and the advent of civilization and
refinement.
Mr. Astor's attempt to found a fur-trading empire on the Columbia
and its tributary lands and streams is the next important era in the history of the Columbia. One expedition was sent by sea and one by land.
S. Ex. 186-12




90


COLUMBIA RIVER.


The first, in the ship Tonquin, sailed from New York September 8,1810,
and arrived at the mouth of the Columbia on the 22d of March, 1811,
and entering it the party established their fort and trading post, to
which they gave the name of Astoria.
The land expedition under Mr. Wilson P. Hunt was organized at Montreal, Mackinaw, and Saint Louis, which latter place it left October 21,
1810. The party spent the winter of 1810-'11 on the banks of the Upper Missouri, and from thence started in the spring of 1811 across the
mountains and reached the headwaters of the Snake River, down which
they tried to make their way. After complicated and almost incredible
sufferings from hard travel, cold, thirst, and hunger, and annoyances
from the insolence and craft of the Indians, surpassing all that is told of
any equally well appointed body of travelers west of the Rocky Mountains, finally, on January 21, 1812, the portion of the original party remaining with Mr. lHunt came in sight of the Columbia River near the
mouth of the Umatilla, and proceeding down it arrived on the 15th of
February at Astoria.
It was not, however, until the 1lth of May, 1812, that all the straggling members of the party got to their desired haven at the mouth of
the great river.
While the land expedition was thus struggling painfully across the
mountains and down the great southern branch of the Columbia, and
the Astorians were engaged in preparing and laying out their future
homes and trading with the neighboring Indians, the Northwest Fur
Company had not been idle.
In 1810 an expedition under Mr. David Thompson, the astronomer
and surveyor of the company, started from Canada with the hope of
reaching the mouth of the Columbia before Astor's parties, of whose
plans they were cognizant, and forestalling them in the occupation and
trade of the country bordering the river. This party experienced so
many difficulties and delays in crossing the Rocky Mountains that they
were obliged to winter near the headwaters of the Columbia under the
fifty-second parallel of latitude.
In the spring of 1811 they hastened down the river, building huts and
raising flags at various places by way of taking possession of the country, and arrived at the mouth of the river on the 15th day of July, and
found, much to their chagrin, that they had been forestalled by Astor's
sea party.
Mr. Thompson and his party were the first white persons who had
navigated the Upper Columbia, or traversed any part of the country
drained by it.
Eight days after Mr. Thompson's arrival at Astoria Mr. David Stuart,
one of the Astoria partners, with a detac.hment set out on a voyage up
the river to establish a trading post in the interior. The place selected
was the level prairie at the junction of the Okinakane and Columbia,
which point was reached on the lst of September, 1811. This post was




COLUMBIA RIVER.


91


occupied for many years and was an important center of the fur trade.
Now, however, no white men live near it, and it has been so completely
destroyed that not a vestige of it remains.
In the following year, 1812, Fort Spokane, or, as it was columonly designated, Spokane House, was established by a party of Astorians under
Mr. Clarke. This was situated near the junction of the Spokane and
Little Spokane Rivers, as they are now designated.
Trading posts had previously been established by the Northwest Fur
Company in the FLlathead and Kootenay countries.
From Fort Okinakane and Spokane House, parties supplied with
goods were sent out to trade with the Indians and collect furs, and to
examine the country, particularly in reference to its fur-producing
qualities and the character and number of its Indian inhabitants. In
the autumn of 1811, after building the fort, Mr. Stuart left Okinakane
and proceeded up the river of that name, tracing it to its source; he
then crossed over to the Thompson River and wintered among a powerful nation called the She-Waps (now written Shuswaps). He returned to Fort Okinakane in March, 1812, and brought the first authentic information concerning tlie country which he had visited. From
Spokane House Mr. Pillet conducted an expedition into the Kootenay
country and gained much information concerning it. As illustrative of
the hostility existing between the different fur companies it is recorded
that he met and fought a duel with Mr. Mantour, the agent of the
Northwest Company-pistols at six paces-in which affair neither were
mortally wounded.
Mr. Farnham, from the same post, crossed the Bitter Root and Coeur
d'Alene Mountains, and visited the Selish or Flat Head country, seeing
much of the region and adding largely to the store of knowledge concerning the basin between the Rocky and Bitter Root Mountains.
Mr. McKenzie established a temporary trading post among the great
Sha-hap-tan or Nez Perce nation, and learned what he could about the
headwaters of the Snake. These Indians, however, were found to be
more devoted to war and buffalo hunting than to the hard drudgery incident to the taking of beaver. They were rich in horses and able to
procure all their necessities by the sale of their steeds. In consequence
the trading post among them was abandoned.
A number of books have been written and published giving acconnts
of the adventures and expeditions of these early fur traders, which contain much valuable information, and are interesting reading as giving
the first accounts of large portions of the country. The most noteworthy
of these works are the volumes of Alexander Ross on the "Fur IHunters of the Far West," Ross Cox's "Adventures on the Columbia," "Franchere's Narrative," Ross's "Adventures of the first settlers on the Oregon
or Columbia River." All these men were clerks and partners in the fur
companies of whose transactions they treat. To these must be added




92


COLUMBIA RIVER.


Astoria, Washington Irving's charming account of Astor's great enterprise.
In the fall of 1813, the fortunes of war then raging between the
United States and Great Britain compelled the transfer of the Astor
or Pacific Fur Company to the Northwest Fur Company, which, from
tlis time, carried on the trade with the Indians which had been comnmenced by tle former.
From this time onward for many years the history of the Columbia
PRiver country is the history of the operations of the Great Nortlwest
and Hludson's Bay Companies, and of the efforts of private parties to
get a share in the profits of the fur trade.
The quarrels continually going on between tle companies and private parties caused attention to be directed to the country, and it began
to be talked about, and emigration schemes to be discussed.
In 1818 Fort Nez Perce, or Walla Walla, was built on the Columbia,
about eleven miles below the Snake, where Wallula now stands. This
it was designed to make the lheadquarters of the fur trade east of the
Cascade Mountains.
In 1821 the Hudson's Bay Company'and the Northwest Company
were merged into one, and the united company then worked with all its
energy, pushing its trade, and holding its monopoly against all comers.
In 1824 the headquarters of the trade was removed from Fort George
or Astoria to Vancouver, and the old Fort Vancouver was built. This
was the chief and central point of the commercial transactions of the
entire Northwest for many years.
Missionaries began now to arrive and settle among the Indians, and
a few adventurous emigrants to drift in, some by sea and some by land.
The Government of the United States sent agents to examine into and
report upon the condition and prospects of this western Columbian
country, an(l the expediency of erectilg a Inilitary and naval establishment on the Columbia begail to be discussed amnong the autlorities at
Washington.
The geographical knowledge of the country was greatly augmented
in thle years 1832-'33-'t34 by the examinations and surveys of Captain
Bonneville. He spent the winter of 1832-'33 about the hleadwaters of
Salmon River, and learned a great deal about that section of the country.
During the winter of 1833-'34 he visited the Colunmbia, passing (own
the Snakde River Valley through the Grand Ronde rnd over the Blue
Mountains to Walla Walla. lie returned to Bear River, and again in
1834 he made a second visit to the Columbia.
Captain Bonneville's maps are the first to correctly represent the
hydrography of the regions west of the Rocky Mountains, and determine the existence of the great interior basins without outlets to the
ocean, to prove the non-existence of the Buenaventura and other hypothetical rivers, and to reduce the Willamette to its proper length.
The exploring expedition under Commniander Chlarles Wilkes of the




COLUMBIA RIVER.


93


United States Navy filled up with authentic information another great
blank in the maps of this western country.
The expedition arrived in Oregon itn 1841, when a party under Lieutenant Johnson was dispatched up the Nisqually, crossed the Cascade
Mountains near Mount Ranier, and reached the Columbia near the mouth
of the Wenatchee. Thence they plroceeded up the river to Fort Okilakane, on to the mouth of the Spokane, and up to Fort Colville. They
then turned soutl, and going through the Colville Valley, visiting Walker and Eel's Mission, and reached the Kooskooskia or Clearwater about
forty miles below where Lewis and Clarke struck it, and keeping to the
west went to Fort Wall  ll lla. From Walla Walla the party kept up
the Yakima Rtiver to its source, and crossing the mounta;ins reacled tlhe
Nisqually and the point from whence they started.
In tills expedition the Columbia was surveyed up as far as the Walla
Walla, alnd a party was sent up the Willaniette Valley, -andl crossed
over to tile sources of the Sacr:amento, which river they followeld down
to tlle Bay of San Francisco.
The next great explorer to appear uponl the scene is Capt. Johl C. Fremont. Tis active, energetic, and intrepid man, who lias been dubbed
the Great American Path Finder, and whose travels and adventures hl ave1
been more talked about and writtel about and loplllarized than 1have
those of any other American explorer, in 1843 crossed over from the
Grefat Salt Lake Basin to the headwaters of the Snake River. lie followed on (lown this and Boise River to the mouth of the latter, where
he crossed the Snake and kept on (lown it to Burnt Rviver, up wlich lhe
p)roceeded to its sources, and tlen crossed the Blue Mountains and entered the valley of the Walla Walla, and followed it to its jlnction withl
the Columbia. From this point, at which was situated old Fort Wtallal
Walla, or Nez Perc, lhe traveled by land and water to Fort Vancouver,
where lie arrived in November, 1843.
Leaving Vancouver after a short stay, Fremont proceededt to the
I)alles, and thence up the valley of the l)es Chutes until near its hcead,
when he left it and crossed over a low timbered country into the ulpper
portion of the Klamath Basin. Here lie turned east and visited Summer Lake, Lake Abert, and Christmas, or Warner Lakes, and thlence on
to lPyramid Lake and the south. The latter part of his journey was
p)erformed amidst the snows and cold of winter, and his party perforned
almost incredible labor, and suffered terrible hardships.
l)uring all the long years in which tlle Oregon region was being first
explored and settled, a dispute had been going oil between thle United
States and Great Britain in regard to its ownership, whic at dlifferent
times waxed so fierce that it threatened war between the two countries.
Fortunately an arrangement was finally arrived at, and thle boundary
line between the British and American possessions fixed at thle fortyninth parallel of latitude. On tele 15th of June, 1846, tle treaty was
signed which gave to our country the extensive Oregon region, corn



94


COLUMBIA RIVER.


posing the present State of Oregon, and the Territories of Washington
and Idaho. This great region was organized into a Territory by act of
Congress, approved August 14, 1848, and on March 3, 1849, General
Joseph Lane, the first Territorial governor, arrived at Oregon City, and
proclaimed the inauguration of the new r6gime.
About this time strange rumors began to circulate through the populons portions of the East; rumors from the regions of the setting sun, far
beyond the Rocky Mountains; rumors of rivers and mountains of gold
in the beautiful sunny land so lately wrested from the swarthy, cruel
Spaniards. Days and months passed on and these rumors, ever increasing in their grandeur, flew to the East, and soon there were to be
seen countless multitudes slowly and laboriously crossing the plains and
mountains, or crowded in ships, coming by Cape Horn or the Isthmus,
all coming with inflamed imaginations to worship at the fateful golden
shrine.
In the minds of those inclined to wander, there was then no room for
Oregon and her unromantic prospects; the lust for gold and swift and
countless riches inspired all and left place for nothing else. So Oregon
and her noble river were left waiting, waiting during many a month and
year, for the allurements of her golden southern sister to prove to many
a myth and a delusion.
Soon, among the comfortless, hungry, blood-stained camps of California, it began to be talked about that gold could be procured from the
soil and amidst the plains and forests of Oregon; gold procured, not in
a wild and burning struggle, at the expense of all noble and Christian
attributes, but by honest, faithful labor, sure of reward, amid the comforts and quiet joys of home, surrounded by the refining and loving care
of woman. Then the tide of emigration turned Columbia-wards, and
it has never ceased; those who came, came as the Pilgrim Fathers to
build up a substantial empire founded on the only true and certain foundation, the honest homes of honest men and women.
And now the curtain rises again, and another grand idea is uplifted
and takes hold of the minds of all men who are interested in Oregon,
and in the unity and prosperity of our whole country. It is the idea ot
uniting the East and the West, wedding them together by the iron
bands of a trans-continental railroad. To find a proper route for the
iron horse to travel through the great interior country, government aid
was invoked and cheerfully given, and in 1853 was organized the Pacific
Railroad surveying expedition, which, more than all others, has added
accuracy and extent to our knowledge of the geography of the northern
and northwest portions of the United States.
To Gov. I, I. Stevens, of Washington Territory, was assigned the
general charge of the surveys between the forty-seventh and forty-ninth,
and to Capt. George B. McClellan, of the Corps of Engineers, was assigned the western division, whose duties were to explore the passes of




COLUMBIA RIVER.                    95
the Cascade Range, meeting the eastern party between that range and
the Rocky Mountains.
The reports and maps of the Pacific Railroad Surveys are embraced in
thirteen quarto volumes, and contain a vast amount of authentic and
valuable information.
During the continuation of these surveys, in 1853-'54-'55, the Columbia itself and many of its branches were examined and surveyed.
Lieut. John Mullan, in charge of one of the surveying parties, operated
extensively in the region lying between the Rocky Mountains and the
Bitter Root Mountains, and down by the Koos-koos-kia to Walla Walla.
Lieutenant Saxton, accompanied by Lieuts. Arnold and Macfeely, went
from the Dalles via Walla Walla, Palouse, Spokane, and Coeur d'Aliile
Rivers to CIarke's Fork, Bitter Root Fork, and thence to the mission
of Saint Mary. Lieut. Macfeely returned to the Dalles by the Nez Pere'
trail up the Bitter Root and westward through difficult mountains to the
Koos-koos-kia.
Lieutenant Donelson left Fort Benton and traveled in a southwesterly
direction, crossing the main range of the Rockies at Cadotte's Pass,
thence down the Blackfoot Fork to Saint Mary's. He then passed from
the Bitter Root to the Jocko, and, following the latter to its mouth,
entered the valley of Clarke's Fork, followed it to a point twelve miles
below Lake Pend d'Oreille, crossed to the Spokane River, and proceeded
about twelve miles west, where he joined Captain McClellan's party.
Thence following an Indian trail, crossing the Snake at the mouth of
Palouse, the party went to Walla Walla.
Mr. A. W. Tinkham and Mr. F. W. Lander made reconnaissances from
Fort Benton westward to the Columbia waters. Dr. George Suckley
descended the Bitter Root, Clarke's Fork, and Columbia Rivers in a
canoe, making several portages and arriving safely at Vancouver.
The main party of the western division under Capt. George B. McClellanl left Vancouver and proceeded in a northerly direction to the
Cathlapoot'l; thence in an easterly direction south of Mounts Saint Helens and Adams; thence northwest, crossing the Atahnam, Nachess, and
Wenass Rivers, up the valley of the Upper Yakima to the YakimnaPass
which was examined; thence he proceeded to Kittitas; thence north
to the Columbia; thence up its right bank to the Okinakane, which was
examined up to Osooyoos Lake. From Osooyoos Lake the party crossed
the dividing ridge and reached Kettle River, which they followed to the
Columbia at old Fort Colville; thence they followed up the Colville
Valley and over to the Spokane, where, being joined by Governor
Stevens, the whole party proceeded to Walla Walla.
Lieut. S. Mowry examined a route leading from Wenass River in a
southerly direction to the Dalles of the Columbia. Lieut. H. C. H-odges
joined McClellan's party at Kittitas, having marched from Fort Steilacoom. His course was easterly to the Stkamish River; thence along
that stream to the Nachess Pass; thence along Nachess River.




96


COLUMBIA RIVER.


Mr. Tinkhan, with ten Walla Walla Indians, in January of 1854,
crossed the Cascade Mountains by the Snoqualamie Pass and followed
down the Snoqua'lamie River to Seattle.
Lieutenallt Grover made a winter journey in January and February,
1851, with a dog-train, froml Fort Benton, via Fort Owen, Clarke's Fork
and Fort Walla Walla, to the main Columbia River.
In the fall of 1854 Mr. Doty, with a party, left Fort Benton for Olyllpia. lie went up the Tetoli River and crossed over to the litter Root
River. Leaving the Bitter Root Valley, he proceeded by way of the
Saint lKegis Borgia River to the Coeur d'Alene Mission, whence lie pursued a southwesterly course to Fort Walla Walla.  Leaving Walla
Walla, he went up the Columbia to the Yakimla River; thence up that
stream to its source; thence through the Yakima Pass to Olympia.
In 1855 an exploration and survey for a railroad route from the Sacramlento to the Columbia was imade by Lieutenants Williamson and Abbot, of the Topographical Engineers. As a matter of curiosity, I mntay
here state that the escort of this expedition was commnanded by Lients.
IIH.. G ibson, George Crook, J. 13. Hood, and P. H. Sheridan, all soon
to achieve great distinction in the civil war. The Des Chutes and Willalmette livers and their valleys were very carefully examined by parties
of this expedition.
A great mass of information concerning the geograplhy of the Colulmbian Basin and other portions of the great west had been collected and
was on file in the departnments at Washington. Most of this was in the
form of reconnlaissances, and few of these possessed any great accuracy,
andl the geographical positions were very uncertain and ofttimnes colflicting.
To Lieut. G. K. Warren, of the Corps of Engineers, was given the task
of compiling all this information on a map of the country between the
Mississippi River and the Pacific Ocean. His instructions were toCarefiully read every report and exalmine every niap of survey, reconnaissalnce,
and travel which could be obtained, to ascertain their several values and to emblody
the authentic information in the map.
This duty he completed, and submitted his report on the 1st of March
1858. His task involved an inmmense amount of l)atielt, painstaking
research and care, combined with the soundest judgment, and was most
successfully performed, a}nd the Imap was for many years the foundation
for all the maps of the great west.
Since the publication of General Warren's map the knowledge of the
geography of the Columbian Basin has increased, not so lmuch by any
new discoveries of magnitude as in accuracy and detail.
The land surveys under the Interior Department have added much to
our knowledge of the settled portionls, and the scouts, reconnaissances,
and itileraries of officers of the Army have added much more to our
knowledge of the settled portion and of the wild regions through which




COLUMBIA RIVER.


97


the Army is generally obliged to move in its conflicts and dealings with
the Indians.
In the recently-published map of the Military Department of the Columbia, which embraces nearly all of the Columbian Basin lying within
our Territory, compiled by me lwhile on duty as chief engineer of the
department, I have given all the topographical and economic information which I could obtain. It is founded on the most recent War
I)epartment map published by the Chief of Engineers; the Land Office
maps and land surveys up to 1879 and '80, the Northern Pacific and
other railroad surveys, the map of Lieut. Robert Fletcher, illustrating
General Howard's Nez Perce campaign, numerous reconnaissances and
itineraries of officers which had never been compiled, and information
derived from conversations with officers and others familiar with portions of the country. To this was added the surveys made by myself
and assistantsin 1878-'79 and '80. These surveys extend over the country in Southern and Central Oregon east of the Cascades and lying along
the Des Chutes and John Day rivers and Klanath, Summer, Abert and
Warner Lakes; the Great Plain of the Columbia in Washington Territory and Idaho, especially the hitherto little-known regions of Moses
Lake, Moses Coulee, and the Grand Coulee, the quadrilateral lying between the Slaklk, Salmon, Clearwater, and South Fork of the Clearwater in Idaho; Southwestern Oregon; and the regions of the Skagit
and Sauk rivers in Washington Territory.
A great deal of knowledge is obtained each yearfroim various sources,
and it is hoped that an edition of the map, with all important changes,
may be published every two years at least.
In compiling this map 1 could not help being struck with the great
lack of information concerning certain portions of the country which it
is intended to represent. There are large areas containing many hundreds of square miles which are comparatively unknown, and what little is known is of the most inaccurate and untrustworthy character, and
that which is put upon the maps is largely hypothetical.
The regions to which I would particularly allude are the Olympic
Mountain region; the region bounded on the north by the international
boundary line, on the east by the Rocky Mountains, on the south by the
Columbia and Wenatchee rivers, on the west by Puget Sound; the
regions of the Saint Joseph and Clearwater rivers in Northern Idaho;
and especially the regions of the Salmon, Weiser, and Payette rivers
in Central Idaho.
There are thousands of square miles in these regions of which no accurate information has ever been obtained. These regions may at any
time become the theater of Indian wars in which a certain knowledge
of the country would be of inestimable value and save the government,
in money alone, more than it would cost to make a satisfactory survey
of all the unknown portions.
Commercial enterprises are pushing their way into these regions, imS. Ex. 186  13




98


COLUMBIA RIVER.


portant transportation routes may pass through them, and all branches
of the government as well as her private citizens and corporations will
soon require a complete and thorough knowledge of the whole country.'
I therefore call attention to these unknown and unsurveyed regions,
and the need of money to carry on the necessary examinations and
surveys therein, and to fix the geographical positions of a number of important and central points in the department by astronomical observations and computations. -
CHAPTER       IX.
THE GEOLOGICAL HISTORY OF TIE CASCADE M OUNTAlINS AND THE
COLUMBIA RIVER.
In order to understand and fully comprehend the various features of
this country, it is highly desirable and essential to know its geological
history, its building up, and the changes which have taken place reducing it to its present condition. This is depicted with great distinctness
upon its face and in its deep caions, and is easily read by the student
of nature.
If we turn back to the first pages of the geological history of this
continent, we shall see that at the beginning of the Paleozoic era nearly
all our present land was under water, not having yet emerged from the
primeval seas. In the area of the United States two strips existed,
forming the nuclei about which has been built the land as we now
see it. One of these strips was the Appalachian Mountain chain; the
other the Rocky Mountain chain. With the former we have nothing to
do except to draw from it lessons applicable to the latter. By the tlocky
Mountain chain is not meant simply a range of peaks, but a grand and
wide belt of country in form of a gigantic fold, from which, in later
times, the present ranges and peaks have been sculptured by erosion.
All to the west of this chain, where now stand the Sierra Nevada, Cascade, and Coast ranges, was buried beneath the ocean. Many rivers
existed then eating away at the western slopes of this great uplifted
range, and depositing the debris along the shores of the pristine sea,
forming thus sedimentary deposits of great depth kind extent.
This deposition of sediment went on during the Paleozoic era, and
the whole Triassic and Jurassic periods of the Mesozoic era until an
enormously thick mass of off-shore deposits had accumulated.
This great marginal sea-bottom became the theater of intense aqueoigneous action in its deeply-buried strata, producing a line of weakness
which, yielding to the horizontal thrust produced by the secular contraction of the interior of the earth, was crushed together and swollen
up into the Sierra Nevada and Cascade ranges at the end of the Jurassic period. The Cascade range thus produced was far from presenting




COLUMBIA RIVER.                       99
any similarity to the range as we now see it. As far as can be ascertained, it was a range of not very great height, but probably higher to
the south than to the north. This range existed for unknown centuries,
and in its turn was the theater of erosion and of plant growth, and was
roamed over by the wonderful extinct animals of the Cretaceous and
Tertiary periods. It was not yet covered by the great lava flow and mountain range soon to be described, but instead by forests of conifers and
oaks.
Where the Columbia River breaks through the Cascade Mountains
there are found, beneath the overlying lava:
First. Along the water's edge, and for about fifteen feet upward, a
very coarse conglomerate of rounded porphyritic pebbles and bowlders
of all sizes up to five or six feet in diameter, cohering by an imperfectly
lithified earthy paste.
Second. Above this conglomerate is a very distinct, irregular, old
ground surface bed, in which are found silicified stumps, with their roots
spreading out over twenty feet in diameter and penetrating into the
bowdler material beneath and evidently in situ. This is undoubtedly
an old forest ground surface.
Third. Resting directly on this ground surface, and therefore inclosing
the erect stumps, is a layer of stratified sandstone, two or three feet thick,
filled with beautiful impressions of leaves of several kinds of forest
trees, possibly of the very trees about whose silicified bases they are found.
This layer is not continuous, like the ground surface on which it rests.
Fourth. Above this stratified leaf-bearing layer, rests a coarse conglomerate similar to that beneath at the water-level. Scattered about in
the lower part of this upper conglomerate and in the stratified sandstone, and sometimes lying in the dirt-bed beneath it, are fragments of
trunks and branches of oaks and conifers, in a silicified or lignitized
condition. They are evidently silicified drift-wood.
Fifth. Above this last conglomerate, and resting upon it, rise the layers of lava, mostly columnar basalt, one above another, to a height of
more than 3,000 feet.*
All these facts were noted and studied by Professor Le Conte, who
drew the following order of events from them.
First. The region of the Columbia River was a forest, probably a valley, overgrown by conifers and oaks. The subsoil of this forest was a
coarse bowlder drift produced by erosion of some older rocks.
Second. By excess of water, either by floods or changes of level, the
trees were killed, their leaves shed and buried in mud, and their trunks
rotted to stumps.
Third. Tumultuous and rapid deposit of coarse drift containing driftwood, covered up the forest ground and the still remaining stumps, one
hundred, perhaps several hundred, feet in thickness.
Fourth. The surface thus formed was eroded into hills and dales.
Professor J. Le Conte, in American Journal Science and Arts, 1874, Volume VII.




100


COLUMBIA RIVER.


Fifth. Then followed the outburst of lava in successive flows, perhaps
for a long period of time, and the silicification of the wood and the
cementation of the drift by the percolation of the hot alkaline waters
containing silica, as happens so commonly in sub-lava drifts.
Sixth. Finally followed the process of erosion, by which the present
stream channels, whether main or tributary, have been cut to their
enormous depth.
The great masses of sediment sent down to the sea from the primary
Cascade range, forming a thick off-shore deposit, gave rise in its turn
at the end of the Miocene to tle upheaval of the Coast range, and, coincidently therewith, the Cascade Mountains were rent along the axis into
enormous fissures from which outpoured the grand lava floods, building
higher the mountains, and covering the country for great distances.
This is probably the grandest and most extraordinary lava flow which
ever took place in the world, covering as it does an area of about
200,000 square miles of the Western States and Territories. Commencing in Middle California as separate streams, in Northern California it
becomes a flood, completely mantling the smaller inequalities, and flowing around the greater inequalities. In Northern Oregon and Washl
ington it becomes an absolutely universal flood, beneath which the
whole original face of the country, with its hills and dales, mountains
and valleys, lie buried several thousand feet. It covers the greater
portion of Northern California and Northwestern Nevada, nearly the
whole of Oregon, Washington, and Idaho, and runs far into British Columbia on the north. The average thickness of this tremendous flood
is probably not far from 2,000 feet. This is shown where the Columbia,
Des Chutes, Snake, Salmon, and other rivers cut through it. Its greatest thickness is not less than 3,700 feet, as demonstrated by Professor
Le Conte.
To produce this enormous thickness many successive flows took place,
and very long periods of time must have elapsed during which tle volcanic actions were going on.
Along the Des Chutes, on the Snake River both above and below
Lewiston, and on the Columbia below Rock Island Rapids, and in other
places, the columnar basalt lies in horizontal layers, well-marked plains
interrupting the continuity of the vertical columns. Magnificent examples of this structure are found in the basalts of the Cascade range. In
the G(rand Coulee the basaltic walls are from 300 to 600 feet in height,
and between some of the layers there is a well-marked stratum of soil,
evidently formed during a period between two successive flows of lava
by the disintegration of the lava rock.
During this long period of the Cascade eruptions, the Coast range was
being slowly elevated, and became, in its turn, the theater of local volcanic action. In all probability this local action was not very severe,
except perhaps in the case of the Olympic Mountains and those in
Northern California and Southern Oregon.




COLUMBIA RIVER.


101


If the theory of the formation of mountain chains by the aqueo-igneous
action taking place in deep deposits of sediment on marginal sea-bottoms is true, it is to be expected that at some time there will be another
range elevated from the Pacific to the west of the Coast range; and it
this latter follows the example of its prototype, the Cascades, it will
give birth to lava floods overwhelming the Willamette and all other valleys lying between the two ranges.
The period of the great fissure eruptions in the Cascades drew to a
close by the fissures becoming blocked up; the volcanic action was concentrated in some few localities, and the period of fissure eruptions was
changed to a period of crater eruptions. These crater eruptions continued for a long period, in some cases even unto our own times, and to
them we owe the upbuilding of those lofty snow-clad peaks which seem
to us to hlave been forever locked in the embrace of eternal winter.
Commencing at the southern boundary of Oregon, the first of these
peaks is Mount Pitt, which I ascended in 1878, and found it a beautifil
cone,-saped structure, composed entirely of volcanic rock, flanked on
all sides by numerous outlying spurs and foot-hill ranges. About its
base are several small lakes, probably of glacier origin. This peak I
found to be 9,818 feet above sea level.
Forty miles north of Mount Pitt stands Mount Scott, the next prominent peak of the range. Between these two peaks the range is somewhat low, with several well-defined peaks however, the highest of which
is Union Peak, directly west of Fort Klamath, and which is 7,298 feet
high. The beautiful level basin, lying at the head of Klamath Lake,
in which is situated Fort Klamath, is 4,108 feet above the sea. Traveling along on the eastern slopes of the Cascades we found the soil to be
composed of very light volcanic sand and ashes, interspersed with basaltic bowlders, and with here and there an exposed mass of rock resembling a trap dike.
Mount Scott, which we found to be 9,016 feet above the sea, has the
same general features which characterize all the Cascade Mountains in
the southern part of the range. It is of volcanic origin, and is covered on
its eastern side with the ashes and light d6bris which have been carried
over froin the west, and which form a comparatively easy slope to the
summit.  On the west the bluffs are almost perpendicular walls of
igneous rock, ragged and torn, among which nestle great masses of
snow, sheltered from the summer sun, and forming reservoirs of water
which irrigate beautiful patches of green in the lowlands at their feet.
To the southwest, following down along these walls, our gaze aat last
rested upon one of the most remarkable and interesting features of nature's handiwork. In the calm stillness of an exquisite summers day,
lying in the dense and lonely wilderness, we saw Mystic or Crater Lake,
a great elliptically shaped basin of water which we estimated to be five
miles long and three miles wide, with unbroken cliff walls varying from
500 to 2,000 feet in altitude, crowned with pines and firs. A little conical




102                    COLUMBIA RIVER.
island, like a cinder-cone, covered with scattering trees, is the only occupant of this weird lake. There is probably a subterraneous outlet of
the lake in Sand Creek, which flows to the east, and is absorbed in the
waters of Klamath Marsh. Mount Scott is undoubtedly a portion of the
eastern rim of the ancient crater, the remainder to the west having been
carried away by erosion, assisted probably by other causes. Crater
Lake, with its conical island, occupies the center of the crater of this
gigantic old volcano. The rim of the lake to the southwest has an
altitude of 7,143 feet, and at this point the lake is about 500 feet below it.
It seems highly probable that along the eastern slope of the mountains, between Mounts Pitt and Scott, were formed the glaciers which,
moving to the south, scooped out the Klamath Basin and the Klamath
Lakes.
The portion of the mountain chain from Mount Scott on the south to
Diamond Peak on the north was a region of numerous volcanoes and of
very extensive local lava flows. It has a very high average elevation, and
in it all the principal rivers of Western Oregon have their sources: the
Willamette, running to the northwest; the Des Chutes running to the
northeast; the headwaters of Klamath River, running to the south and
breaking through the range and flowing to the west; the Rogue River,
flowing to the southwest; and the Umpqua, to the west and north.
The great local outflow to the east forms the divide separating the
headwaters of the Des Chutes from those of the Klamath system of
waters, while the outflows to the west form the Calapooia Mountains,
separating the Willamette from the Umpqua waters, andl the mountains separating the Umpqua from the Rogue River waters.
Diamond Peak is 8,807 feet high, and is another typical high peak of
the Cascade range. The peak itself gives evidence of being the southeast portion of an old crater rim, from four to seven miles in diameter,
now very much broken away to the west and filled with a great mass of
snow which has crevasses and partakes very largely of the nature of a
glacier; I think it can truly be called a glacier on a small scale. About
Diamond Peak are scattered here and there volcanic cones and little
conical monticules, evidently parasitic volcanoes, and several fine lakes
are seen from its summit, the largest of which is Odell Lake, the source
of the main fork of the Des Chutes. This lake lies to the east of the
peak, and is supplied by the melting of the great snow fields about the
eastern portion of the Diamond Peak cluster. It is a very wild, romantically-beautiful sheet of water about five miles long and four wide.
There is no grass on its borders, and the fallen timber, the bogs, and
the dense thickets of brush and tamarack make it almost impossible for
beasts of burden to reach its shores.
The main or west fork of the Des Chutes, issuing from Odell Lake, has
cut for itself a deep and wide canion among the eroded hills in which to
flow. Following down this stream we came to where it opens out into
a lake, surrounded by tree-covered cliffs, with bottom lands and mead



COLUMBIA RIVER.


103


ows of considerable extent, and extensive mud flats near the lake. Following around its western shore we found that it had no visible outlet.
There were water-marks twenty feet above us on the lava bluffs of the
northern and northeastern shores of the lake, and during the night we
heard rumblings among the sharply-cut rocks composing the bluffs.
We found the next day that these lava beds formed an impassable barrier, extending unbroken for about four miles to the north, and at their
end we found foaming out from beneath the great angular bowlders the
clear cold water that we had seen lose itself in the lake fifteen miles or
more to the south.
The lava rock composing this barrier to the waters is extremely hard
and close-grained, in fact almost obsidian, and is broken into irregular
blocks with very sharp, clear-cut edges. It seems to have come from
some volcano to the south, between the east and west forks of the b)es
Chutes. Its recent origin is shown by the fact of its having dammed up
the stream after the latter had cut for itself a deep and wide cafion bed,
and also by its having such sharp edges and unworn, new appearance,
and having no accumulation of soil of any kind on its top.
That there were volcanoes away to the east of the Cascade range
there can be no doubt. Mr. Karl observed well-defined craters and
local lava flows in the Pauline and Walker Mountains, which are composed largely of obsidian. It is highly probable, and I believe that in
time it will be demonstrated, that there were many volcano and fissure
eruptions in the desert country of Southern and Central Oregon, and
also within the limits of the Great Plain of the Columbia.
The Three Sisters are the next marked peaks of the range. There
are, in fact, five well-defined peaks, and it seems highly probable that
they are all portions of a grand old crater-rim, twelve miles in diameter,
now broken and worn away. Further examinations will be required to
demonstrate whether this is so or not. Various small volcanic cones
are in their vicinity and lying between them and Mount Jefifrson.
Mount Jefferson follows next and then Mount Hood, both being true
volcanic cones.
Persons who have visited Mount Hood say that near its summit there
are places where hot sulphurous gases still escape, and there are very
many who claim to have seen smoke in large quantities issuing from this
mountain. To the north of Mount Hood the Columbia River has dug its
way through the Cascades, forming for its use one of the most magnificent mountain carlons in the world, cutting through the entire thickness
of 4,000 feet of the overlying lava and far into the previously forned
conglomerate upon which it rests.
To the north of the Columbia the range widens out considerably into
a region of high, grassy mountain plateaus, of deep caflons, heavily
timbered slopes, and volcanic peaks. Amomg the latter, now dead and
shrouded in snow, but once alive with the terrible force of the volcano,
are the huge, stately masses of Adams, Saint Helens, and Ranier.




104


COLUMBIA RIVER.


The period of volcanic eruptions is just over in these mountains, if it
can be considered as yet entirely over. In a journal of a journey across
the continent to Oregon in 1843, the author states that Mount Saint
Helens burst into a burning volcano in 1843, and was still burning on
the 16th of February, 1844, when he described it thus:
The mountain burned most magnificently-dense masses of smoke rose up in immense columns, and wreathed the whole crest of the peak in somber anl massive clouds,
and in the evening its fire lit up the flaky mountain side with a flood of soft yet
brilliant radiance.
The account is in a printed report in the Portland Library, but the
name of the writer is not given.
Judge Thornton, writing of Mount Saint Helen's, says:
It is an active volcano, near 46~ 29'. It is 9,550 feet high. This mountain was in
a state of eruption in the year 1831. The fact is affirmed by Dr. Gassner, a distilnguished naturalist of England, who was in Oregon at the time, as also by gentlemen
connected with the Hudson Bay Company. With the exception of a slight red, lurid
appearance, the day was dark, and so completely was the light of the sun shut out by
the smoke and falling ashes that candles were necessary. The weather was perfectly
calm and without wind; and during several days after the eruption the fires, out of
doors, burned with a bluish flame, as though the atmosphere was filled with sulphur.
Credible persons in Oregon have informed me that they have on several occasions
since seen the fire and smoke of this volcano.
The Rev. Josiah L. Parish, who is connected with the Methodist Mission in Oregon,
informed me that he witnessed on one occasion a most remarkable eruption of the
mountain. I regret, however, that, not having noted his relation in my journal, the
date of the eruption and the principal facts connected with it have been obliterated
from my memory by events to which my attention has since been called. I only
remember that no earthquake was felt, no noise was heard, and that he saw vast
columns of lurid smoke and fire shoot up, which, after attaining to a certain elevation, spread out in a line parallel to the plane of the horizon, and presented the appearance of a vast table, supported by immense pillars of convolving flame and
smoke. '
The Rev. Samuel Parker, after describing the eruption of Saint Helens
in 1831, remarks thatThe Indians say that they have seen fires in the chasms of Mount Hood. Tilki, the
first chief of the La Dalles Indians, who is a man of more than ordinary talents, said
he had frequently seen fires in the fissures of rock in the last-mentioned mountains.
It is possible, however, that all this smoke and lurid glare, &c., might
have come front great wood fires which have swept over large sections
of the heavily-timbered country about Saint Helens and Mount Ranier.
This mountain region is very rough, being deeply cut up with rugged
and steep carlons. On the western slopes it is covered with magnificent
forests, principally of fir, the trees growing to an immense size. One
tree lying on the ground was measured by one of Commander Wilkes's
parties, and found, at ten feet from its base, to be thirty-five feet in circumcumference and three hundred feet long. The general elevation of
the plateaus is from 3,000 tP 5,000 feet above the sea; they are untimbered and covered with good grass. General McClellan reported that
*Oregon and California. Thornton, volume 1, page 256.




COLUMBIA RIVER.


105


upon these mountain plateaus there was a great extent of beautiful and
rich pasture land and a delightful climate.
On the eastern slopes the forests are more open, and consist of pine,
fir, and white cedar.
The Nachess Pass has an elevation of 4,900 feet above the sea, and in
the upper part of its course the Nachess River flows through a very
narrow canon four hundred feet deep, the walls being of solid, compact
volcanic rock.
There have been several very large local outflows of lava from this
part of the main range. Several of these go to make up the eastward
stretching ridges forming the Simcoe Mountains. One of these lava
flows extended to the east just south of the forty-seventh parallel, crossing
the Columbia River and forming Saddle Mountain, which extends to the
eastward and is lost in the general surface of the Great Plain.
The base of this Saddle Mountain outflow has all been worn away by
the Yakima and Nachess systems of waters, and by the glaciers which
must have come down scooping out the valleys of these rivers. Where
the Columbia cuts through the outflow, just north of Priest Rapids,
the bluffs are close together and stand out very prominently, viewed both
from the north and south. The name of the " Sentinel Bluffs" was bestowed upon them.
The Yakima Pass, in about latitude 471~, crosses the mountains in a
region of deeply-embosomed beautiful lakes, the high clifif-like banks of
which are crowned with splendid forests of pine, fir, and white cedar.
These lakes in all probability owe their existence to glaciers which in
former ages swept down the valley of the Yakima.
To the north of this pass very little is known concerning the main
chain of the Cascades. It is a region of high and rugged mountains,
more jagged and rough than the regions to the south, heavily timbered,
and with a number of lakes and deeply encalioned streams. There
seems to have been a volcanic center between the Yakima and the Wenatchee and lying about midway between the lakes of the Upper Yakima
and the Columbia, from which outpoured a grand flood of lava to the
east and south, forming the elevated range between the Wenatchee and
the Yakima, known as the Wenatchee Mountains, and crossing the present channel of the Columbia and forming Badger Mountain on the east.
To the north of the forty-eighth parallel, which is about the line of
the Spokane and the westward flowing portion of the Columbia, the
country changes, becoming more independent in its mountain formations, and joins on the east with the earlier rock materials of the western spurs of the Rocky Mountains. Near the mouth of the Spokane,
and crossing that river in a direction northeast and southwest, there is
a great vein of granular magnesian limestone. Granite is also found in
this vicinity underlying the basalt.
About the mouth of the Colville River the rocks are very largely
composed of limestone. The Columbia at the Little Dalles and KetS. Ex. 186-14




106                    COLUMBIA RIVER.
tie Falls cuts through the limestone, which, to the west, seems to be
covered up beneath hills of basaltic rock. This limestone is of good
quality for building purposes and for lime.
There is a magnificent field for the geologist in the exploration of this
region lying along the boundary line between the Cascades and the
Rocky Mountains.
The natural consequence of the upbuilding of the Sierra Nevada
and Cascade Mountains was the formation of a grand interior basin.
The waters of this basin collected into secondary basins, some of very
large extent, and were carried off by the rivers which have cut a way
from the interior to the sea. The Columbia and its tributaries drained
the northern portion of this great basin, and it was at this period,
doubtless, that the Salt Lake of Utah assumed its old colossal proportions and found its outlet by the Snake River.
The commencement of the Tertiary period saw a great basin between
the Rocky Mountains. and the up-swollen primary range of the Cascades,
especially in the region south of the Blue Mountains. This region was
covered with fresh-water lakes and marshes, which were afterward overflown with lava. This lava has since become denuded in places, exposing the Tertiary beds, and furnishing evidence of the former condition of
the region by the fossils found therein.
At the end of the Miocene the Coast range was upheaved, and the
lava flows from the Cascade fissures commenced, but it was a long time
before the lava flows reached the entire extent of the basins of Oregon,
which continued to exist and be endowed with life away into the Pliocene
period. The fossil beds of the John Day country and those near Christmas Lake in Southern Oregon are the principal ones that have been
found in the country.
There is no evidence of which I am aware of any Tertiary basin
north of the Blue Mountains. In the caion of Snake River, a little
below Lewiston, the basaltic layers, aggregating 2,000 feet thick, rest
on granite. Above Lewiston, on the Snake, I found the same thing, as
well as on the Upper Columbia near Lake Chelan,.and the mouth of
the Spokane.
It has been demonstrated to the satisfaction of geologists, and well
stated by Professor Le Conte, that during the whole of the Tertiary
period there was a gradual upheaval of the whole western half of the
continent by which the axis, or lowest line of the great interior basin,
was transferred more and more eastward to its present position, the
Mississippi River. Probably, correlative with this upheaval of the
western half of the continent, was the down-sinking of the mid-Pacific
bottom, indicated by the coral reefs there existing. Also, as a consequence of the same upheaval, the erosive power of the rivers was
greatly increased, and thus were formed those deep caftons in which
they now flow. Thus the down-sinking of the mid-Pacific bottom, the
upheaval of the Pacific side of the continent, and the down-cutting of




COLUMBIA RIVER.


107


the river channels into their wonderful calions are closely connected
with each other.
We may picture to ourselves that, at the end of the Tertiary and the
commencement of the Quaternary, the hundreds of volcanoes of the
Cascades were belching forth their fire and smoke and liquid rock;
the sea entering and occupying the regions of Puget Sound, the Willamette Valley, and all the intervening country; the Coast range, with
here and there a center of volcanic activity; and in the interior a vast
sea of cooling, hardening lava, through which the rivers ran in extremely deep channels, some of them deeper far than they are now.
Extremely heavy rains prevailed, wearing away the mountains and
washing the d6bris down into the Willamette Valley and all the low
areas near the coast.
During the Quaternary period the high-latitude eartl oscillations,
producing the Glacial, Champlain, and Terrace epochs, are very well
illustrated in this nortlwestern country, and especially in the Upper
Columbia River.
During the Glacial epoch, when the mountains were being chiseled
out by the moving ice, glaciers, large and small, swept in different
directions across the great plain of the Columbia, grinding away at the
solid rocks, partially filling the coul6es, and strewing the country for
many miles with a thick bed of bowlders.
Probably the largest of these glaciers was one which formed in the
region of Pend d'Oreille Lake, swept to the southwest across the Spokane Plains, receiving the Coeur d' Alene glaciers, and on across Hangman's Creek, the Four Lakes country, and still on to the southwest,
spreading itself out like a great fan, and grinding up the rocks and
spreading bowlders over the Spokane plains, and the area soutl of
Badger Mountain and Crab Creek, and rendering its aid in forming the
ancient Columbian Lake, to be hereafter noticed.
The top surface of these Spokane plains is composed of small pebbles
and some loose soil; underneath, for a depth of many feet, the material
is of rounded bowlders from six inches to one foot and more in dlialneter, closely jammed together and the interstices filled with soil.
During thie Champlain epoch following, this Spokane plain was covered with a great lake, leveling off the upper surface of this bowlder
formation, filling up the cavities with earth, and spreading over the
top the layers of pebbles and soil. To the north of the plain there are
several well-defined terraces, indicating the different sizes of this lake,
from the greatest to the final and least size, after which it was finally
drained away in the succeeding Terrace epoch by the Spokane River
cutting its way through the obstructing rocks, and forming its deep
canlon below.
A study of the Yakima country shows the existence of a grand
glacier fed by numerous branches about the heads of the Yakima and
Nachess, and their tributaries, and moving to the south and east.




108


COLUMBIA RIVER.


Undoubtedly, throughout the Cascade Mountains, and the mountains
of the north, there were many glaciers of great size. Lake Chelan was
surely scooped out by a giant glacier. The Okinakane Valley has terraces, and gravel and bowlder beds, similar to those of the Spokane.
The lake enlargements of the northern rivers, the Okinakane and Osooyoos lakes of the Okinakane, the Arrow lakes of the Columbia, the
Kootenay lakes of the Kootenay, the Kaniksu Lake of the V'ermillion,
the Flathead, Pend d'Oreille, and Coeur d'Alnle lakes, all are probably
of glacier formation.
In the southwestern portion of the Great Plain, south of Badger
Mountain and Crab Creek, surrounding Saddle Mountain, and embracing within its limits the lower portions of the Yakima, Walla-Walla,
and Snake Rivers, and Moses Lake, there is a region lower than the
surrounding country, and which was undoubtedly a lake during the
Champlain epoch. It is largely covered with rounded bowlders of all
sizes embedded in a loose, light, powdery soil, very difficult for animals
to traverse. It is also a region of great sand hills and dunes. Moses
Lake is formed by the waters of Crab Creek being dammed up by a
great sand drift which has placed itself across the old drainage channel
of the creek. In the northern portion of this old lake bed the bowlders
and loose soil rest upon the volcanic rock, which, a little further north,
is exposed, and has large areas without any earthy covering. Just
north of Saddle Mountain the waters of Crab Creek have cut deep
cailons through the powdery alkaline soil. The walls of these canions
and ravines show plainly by their stratification the sedimentary method
by which the land was formed. I was not able to find fossils of any
kind in this place.
To the south of Saddle Mountain the Columbia has cut through this
lacustrine sediment, forming at the White Bluffs perpendicular cliffs
along the left bank of the river fifty to three hundred feet in height.
Judging from the character of the sedimentary deposits, this old lake
seems to have been the receptacle of all the volcanic ashes and cinders
scattered over the country, and washed into it by the rains and streams.
Along the right bank of the river the accumulations have all been
carried away, leaving a low flat plain. I have endeavored to outline
this ancient lake as far as practicable, and propose for it the name of
Lake Lewis, after Capt. Merriweather Lewis, the leader of the exploring party which first saw any of the lleadwaters of the Columbia.
'The Champlain and Terrace epochs have left very marked evidences
of their existence in the cation of the Columbia, especially in that portion of it between the Colville and Spokane rivers and the Okinakane
and Wenatchee rivers. In both these sections of the river there are terraces of all elevations from five to five hundred feet, aggregating a height
of more than two thousand feet above the present river. I counted
twenty-two of these terraces at one point in descending from the Great




COLUMBIA RIVER.


109


Plain to the river opposite Lake Chelan. The river here flows at a
depth of 2,500 feet below the level of the Great Plain.
About Lake Chelan and in the gorges and amphitheatre-like valleys
of the mountains forming the right bank of the river these terrace
plateaus are seen. About the mouth of the Spokane the terraces are
extremely distinct and marked; Camp Spokane is situated on one of
them 400 feet above the river. Along by Lake Chelan, and in many
other places, the bed of the present river is composed of bowlders extending down to an unknown depth. All these facts go to show that
previous to the Champlain epoch the calion of the Columbia was cut to
its present depth, and in some places far below it; that (luring tlhe
downward oscillation of the Champlain epoch this cailon was filled up
by debris, bowlders, &c., to a height of 2,000 feet above the present
river surface; and that at this time there was a great lake in the southwestern part of the Great Plain of the Columbia. During this epoch
also the Grand Coul6e was occupied as a secondary channel by the
Columbia, and the deeply cut calons of Moses Coulee, Wilson Creek,
Kenewaw Run, Marlin Hollow, Lake Creek, Crab Creek, &c., were occupied by large streams pouring their waters into the great Columbian
Lake.
When the downward movement of the Champlain epoch came to a
close, and the upward movement of the Terrace epoch commenced, then
the Columbia began to cut its way down through its old elevated bed
of bowllers and drift with which its previously-formed caflon was filled,
and the waters began to drain away from the Columbian Lake. The
Columbia Caflon being very narrow, the terraces only remained where
they were protected from erosion by the jutting cliffs of rocks forming
recesses. This must account for their lack of continuity.
To the west of the Cascade Mountains, in Washington Territory, there
are beautiful illustrations of these post-tertiary high-latitude oscillations in the numerous inlets, passages, canals, and straits making up
Puget Sound. These complicated channels are without doubt the work
of glacial erosion atia period of greater elevation than the present.
Subsidence filled them with water from the sea, which also spread over
the land far to the south. Numerous gravelly prairies between the
Columbia and Puget Sound, and the Suoqualmie, Steilaguamish, and
other flats, attest the presence of a much more extended sound than
now exists. A partial re-elevation has brought the sound to its present
beautiful and interesting proportions.
Looking at the map of the Columbian Basin, and having a personal
knowledge of the country, the question naturally arises, why did the
waters choose their present courses, and how were the tremendous
callons through which they flow formed I The basaltic rock composing
these canions is extremely hard in some places; notably in the callons of
Snake River near the Salmon liver it is almost as hard and compact as
solid flint or obsidian. The rocks between high and low water have a




110


COLUMBIA RIVER.


polished vitrified appearance, and it seems to me that for water to wear
through this Snake River Calion of more than 3,000 feet of extremely
hard rock for 200 miles in length would take an inconceivable length of
time. The same may be said of the canon of the Upper Columbia, the
cafion of the Des Chutes, of the Salmon, and the tremendous gorge
where the Columbia cuts through the Cascades.
It Would seem that these cailons were not commenced until after the
last of the lava flows making up the aggregate thickness of the lava
over the country, for these lava flows show continuity and horizontality
from one side of the caltons to the other. Of course, if a channel was
once formed, any subsequent flow would fill it up with lava and force
the water to commence its work all over again.
Certain appearances and studies of the Coul6es of the Great Plain
would indicate that they are of fissure formation. Moses Coul6e, with
walls from two hundred to four hundred feet high, heads abruptly in
the Great Plain, forming a complete and perfect cul-de-sac. This seems
incompatible with its being entirely a channel of erosion.
In the Grand Coulee, the Steamboat Rock, and the formations about
the middle pass of the Coulee, are indicative to me of its being a great
fissure. And so of the other coul6es and calions, now either dry or containing small streams, which do not seem to have ever been of sufficient size to cut the canons inclosing them.
I must subscribe myself to the belief that the courses of many of the
most deeply encaiioned rivers of this country were determined to a
very great extent by their waters finding and collecting in great fissures,
and that these fissures were formed during the late Tertiary or during
the upward oscillation of the Glacial epoch.
CHAPTER X.
THE GREAT PLAIN OF THE COLU MBIA.
The northern portion of the interior Columbia Basin, known as the
Great Plain of the Columbia, may be described as that area bounded
on the west by the Cascade Mountains, on the south by the Blue
Mountains, on the east by the Bitter Root and Coeur d'Alene Mountains, and on the north by the mountains of the Moses and Colville Indian reservations, and those in the triangular area between the Columbia and Clarke's Fork. This area is about 145 by 155 miles in extent,
and contains approximately 22,000 square miles, or 14,080,000 acres, an
area twice the size of Maryland, and as large as Massachusetts, New
Hampshire, Connecticut, and Rhode Island together. This section is
also known in popular parlance as the " Bunch-Grass Country," from
the fact that nearly all the plains and hills throughout its extent are
covered with this most hardy and nutritious grass.




COLUMBIA RIVER.


111


In the spring and early summer when it is green and juicy it is very
sweet and palatable, and cattle eat it with avidity. During the summer it ripens, and the heat of the sun and dearth of moisture dry it up
and color it a rich yellow brown; but in this condition it is even better
for stock than it was in its early green state. I have been told by an
old pioneer packer, who for many years packed through the country,
that his animals would keep in better condition on bunch-grass alone
than they would if fed on ordinary hay and grain. "Bunch-grass" has
become the synonym for things good, strong, rich, and great: the
bunch-grass country is the best and finest country on earth; bunchgrass cattle and horses are the sweetest, fleetest, and strongest in the
world; and a bunch-grass man is the most superb being in the universe.
Over nearly the whole of this Great Plain of the Columbia there is
now spread a rich and fertile soil, varying in depth from a few inches to
hundreds of feet. This soil has been produced by the grinding action
of tile ice and drift of the Glacial epoch, by the water-wearing of the
Champlain epoch, and from the disintegration of the rocks during the
last and present existing Terrace epoch; by the action of summer's rain
and heat, winter's frost and cold, and the chemical decomposition arising
from exposure to the atmosphere.
The eastern portion of this plain has a much greater thickness of soil
than the western, and this is owing undoubtedly to the greater amount
of moisture in the atmosphere, and to the soil brought down by its
streams from the mountains on the east and south. Soil arising from
the disintegration of volcanic rocks is known to possess in a high degree the qualities and mineral constituents needed by llants. The
most fertile soils of France, Italy, the Sandwich Islands, and California
are of this nature, and the wondrous harvests in some localities in the
bunch-grass country show that its soil has no superior anywhere.
Early travelers over these sections formed and recorded various opin.
ions concerning the quality of the lands. They were influenced in their
views by the season of the year in which they traveled.
To one now who travels over an uncultivated portion of the country
in the spring and early summer nothing can be more promising than
its appearance around him on every side. The valleys and rolling hills
stretch away covered with a luxuriant growth of green and tender grass,
and the varied hues of the multitudinous flowers add color and great
beauty to the scene. The soil is moist, showers of rain fall frequently,
and little streams and trickling springs are seen in all directions. After
awhile comes a change; the showers cease, the clouds disappear, and
nothing interposes between the burning rays of the sun and the parching earth. The grass loses its cool, green hue, the flowering plants become shrunken and withered, the springs and rivulets become small or
extinct, and the soil dry and dusty. During this latter period of the
summer and fall the traveler would form a very poor opinion of the land,
and declare that it was not capable of raising the crops required by




112


COLUMBIA RIVER.


man. He would give it credit for being a good grazing country when
water could be procured, but that is as far as his recommendation would
go. This is precisely the reputation that this country has had for many
years. Within a short time, however, farmers have demonstrated that
the high and dry hill land is better for crop-raising than the colder and
more organic soil of the valleys, and experiment and demonstration
have marched along together until it is proven that over nearly the
whole.of this Great Plain of the Columbia the cereals-wheat, barley,
oats, flax, &c.-grow and return abundant harvests.
An increase of moisture seems to come with an increase of cultivation, and every acre that is planted, tended, and harvested, adds to the
total agricultural acreage of the country and its capability of grainproducing. This has been abundantly proven in Nebraska and other
sections east of the Rocky Mountains. After Fort Kearney was established in 1848, the government employed a skilled farmer for years to
live there and try to raise vegetables for the troops and grain for the
public animals. But agriculture was a complete failure owing to lack
of rain. Now all about the old fort are thousands of farms on all of
which abundant crops are raised. This change has been produced by
the westward progress of settlements, carrying along an increased rainfall.
In some localities on the Great Plain it is still a question whether the
land will produce or not, as no experiments have been made. It is a
fact that it takes about three years to test the soil thoroughly in any
portion of this country. The first year the crops of grain are light, as
the bunch-grass is not rotted, and tends to choke out its civilized rival.
The second year the same thing takes place, but to a less extent. The
third year, however, the grass has been pretty well killed and the sod
rotted, and the soil properly comminuted and prepared for its work,
and this year's yield will generally tell its value.
It would be policy for the great railroad companies, owning immense
bodies of land in the country, to make these tests in different localities,
and by this means prove to the inquiring settler what quality of land
it is which is offered to him. In a great many cases, undoubtedly, intending settlers are forced away by the uncertainty as to the producing power of the soil and the lack of time and means to test it.
The two great drawbacks to the rapid settlement and growth of the
country are the lack of an abundant supply of water and lack of wood
for fuel and lumber. In regard to it as a grazing country, it may be
said that there is grass in the greatest abundance for thousands
and tens of thousands of cattle and horses, which cannot be eaten off
owing to the lack of water. But in this same country in all probability
a sufficiency of water can be had, either from natural sources or by
digging, to supply the needs of the people and animals engaged in cultivating the soil.
The volcanic rock underlying the country is, I believe, well adapted




COLUMBIA RIVER.


113


to the storage of water falling upon it and percolating through its small
fissures and interstices to the greater fissures and cracks below. In
nearly every place where it has been tried, water has been procured by
digging.
SAGE-BRUSH LANDS.
Sage-brush has become almost a synonym for worthlessness, and to
say that a piece of land is sage-brush land condemns it at once in the
minds of many people. But this is not right; for while a great deal,
probably the greater portion, of the sage-brush land of the country is
poor and comparatively worthless, there are large tracts covered with
sage-brush which are of the finest quality. The little, short, stunted
sage-brush, such as grows about the mouth of Snake River and the
Central Oregon deserts, is indicative of very poor, unproductive soil.
But far different is the case when the sage-brush is thick and strong,
standing from four to twelve feet high, as it does in the vicinity of Honey
Lake, Surprise Valley, and many other places in California and Nevada,
and in portions of the Grand Coulee and Badger Mountain country.
This kind of sage-brush has been found by experience to grow only in
the richest soil, which, when brought under cultivation, produces the
greatest harvests. When I visited Honey Lake Valley, h few years
ago, the people had already adopted the expression that the bigger the
sage brush the better the land.
Sage-brush is very hard to eradicate, from the fact that no matter
how thick it stands fire will not run in it. Its most fatal enemy, strange
to say, is grass. I have been informed by old settlers about The Dalles
and other places that large areas which are now covered with bunchgrass were, when they first came into the country, covered with sagebrush. They described the method by which the bunch-grass overcomes and replaces the sage-brush, and which subsequent observation
of my own induces me to believe. This is as follows: If we have two
contiguous areas covered, one with bunCh-grass and the other with sagebrush, the grass grows in among the brush for considerable distances,
enveloping the roots and lower portions of the brush. At some time fire
comes and sweeps over the grass, burning it to the ground. This fire
does not injure the grass-roots, which spring up again as green and
hardy as before. Not so the sage-brush; the fire has killed it, and in
a short time the old stalks and roots rot away and the bunch-grass completely usurps its place; and so the struggle goes on until the whole
area is covered with grass.
In order to show the extraordinary fertility of this region of the
Columbia River I give below the statistics from the United States Census office of the average yield, per acre, of the cereals grown in 1879 in
the State of Oregon and Territories of Washington, Idaho, and Montana, comprising those regions drained largely by the Columbia River
and its tributaries. Montana is included in this region for the reason
S. Ex. 186  15




114                                  COLUMBIA RIVER.
that, while most of the Territory is drained by the Missouri, a large
proportion of the cultivated land is on the headwater streams of the
Columbia, in the Missoula Basin.
Cereals of the United States; average yield per crop of 1879.
States.                       Barley. Buck- Indian     Oats.    Rye.   Wheat.
wheat. corn.
Oregon................................................  31      17      22      29      16       17
Washington..................................           39      24       19      41      14       24
Idaho..............................................    33.....       29      35      12       24
Montana...........................................      30       13      29      36      29       27
Average for whole region; mean for above........       33       18      25      35      18       23
Average whole United States......................      22      14       28      25      11       13
From     this it is seen that the average yield of barley per acre in this
Columbia country is 50 per cent. greater than the average yield in the
whole United States, including this region; the average yield of buckwheat is 29 per cent. greater; the average yield of Indian corn is 11 per
cent. less; the average yield of oats is 40 p)er cent. greater; of rye, is 64
per cent. greater, and the average yield of the most important cereal of
all, wheat, is 77 per cent. greater than the average of the United States.
I give below the average yield of the cereals per acre of the cereal
crops of 1879 for the principal agricultural States of the Union, and
those whose averages are the largest.
States.                      Barley. Buck- Indian      Oats.    Rye. Wheat.
wheat.   corn..    y.    Wet
Arkansas.....................................     12       6       19      13       7        6
California...........................................  21    22       28      27       9       16
Dakota............................................      17       8       22      28      10       11
Illinois...........................................    22       11      36      32      16       16
Indiana.............................................    23      10       31      25      12       18
Iowa.........................................           20       10      42      34      15       10
Kansas...........................................      13      10       31      19      12        9
Kentucky..........................................     24      10       24      11       7       10
Massachusetts..................................        25      12       34      31      10       16
Michigan........................................       22       12      35      34      13       19
Minnesota....................................           26      11       34      38      16       11
Missouri............................................  19  11   36      21      12       12
Nebraska...........................................     15      11       40      26      12        9
New York.................o........................      22      15       33      30      11       16
North Carolina....................................     11       8       12       8       5        5
Ohio...............................................   30      13       34      31      13       18
Pennsylvania.......................................     19      15       33      27       9       13
Texas.........................................        13      11       12      21       8
Virginia.........................................       17       8       16       9       7        9
Wisconsin..........................................     25       9       34      34      14       13


I I:- -- I




-- W


COLUMBIA     RIVER.                         115
The statistics regarding the production of Irish potatoes in the States
and Territories where they are principally raised is given in the following table
States.                        Acres.  Bushels. Yield per
acre.
Washington.....................................................  6, 823  1, 035,177  152
Oregon...........................................................  11,106  1,359,930  122
California.-....-................................................  55, 471  4, 550, 565  82
Connecticut.....- -..............................................  32, 375  2, 584, 262  80
Illinois......................................................  151, 126  10, 365, 707  69
Indiana. —..........-.. —.... -...-.. —...-.........  91, 985  6,232,246  68
Iowa.-.. —..... ---.................................................  121, 358  9,962, 537  82
Maine.............................................-............  771, 416  7, 999, 625  112
Massachusetts.....................................................  32, 660  3, 070, 389  94
M ichigan..........................................................  134, 274  10, 923, 060  81
Minnesota...................................................  51,419  5,184,676.  101
Nebraska.........................................................  28, 347  2,150, 873  76
New  Hampshire...................................................  29, 659  3,358, 828  113
New Jersey.....................................................  41, 683  3, 563, 793  85
ew    York........................................................  349, 903  33, 612, 313  96
Ohio...............................................................   173,321  12,719,215  73
Pennsylvania....................................................  185,429  16,284, 819  88
Rhode Island.-....-................................................  5,988  606, 793  101
Vermont...........................................................  38,855  4, 438,172  114
Wisconsin...........................................   99, 266  8, 509,161  86
Dakota.............................................................  6, 960  664, 086  95
These statistics are only given to show the great fertility of the soil
in this country drained by the Columbia, its adaptability to support a
large population engaged in agricultural pursuits, and the enormous
crops which its immense acreage must yield as soon as a population
sufficient for their cultivation is attained and means of transportation
provided. This country is far away from the seat of government and is
very little known, but it is bound soon to force itself on the attention of
the country as one of the grandest portions of our domain, unexcelled
by any in the productions of the earth, in the beauty, extent, and yield
of its waters, in its mlountains clothed with splendid forests and enfolding mines of the useful and precious metals, and in its climate.
In consequence of its great and sure promise our legislators should
look upon it with liberal eyes and grant abundant aid to all desirable
works of public improvement which may be undertaken to facilitate
transportation, sure of a prompt and rich return in the increased prosperity and loyalty of the people.
From the interior water-ways, the Columbia and Snake Rivers, should
be removed, as far as practicable, all the rocky fetters which prevent
and hinder full and free navigation. Commerce will require it, the
people will demand it, and it must be done sooner or later.
In order to particularize a little in regard to this great plain of the
Columbia, let us suppose that portion north of the Snake and Clearwater
to be divided into four nearly equal parts by a line drawn due south from
the Big Bend of the Columbia, near Camp Spokane, to Snake River, and




116


COLUMBIA RIVER.


a due east and west line through the southern end of Big or Colville
Lake.
The northeastern portion may be designated as the Spokane section;
the southeastern as the Palouse section; the northwestern as the Crab
Creek and Grand Coulee section, and the southwestern as the Moses
Lake or Desert section. To these must be added the section south and
west of the Snake or the Walla Walla section; the one south of the
Clearwater and east of the Snake, or the Lewiston and Mount Idaho
section; and the one to the west of the Columbia, or the Yakima section.
THE PALOUSE SECTION.
The lands of this section are nearly all of good quality, and are being
rapidly settled. ' The section is well watered, the main streams being
the Palouse, Cow Creek, Rock Creek, Pine Creek, Union Flat Creek,
Rebel Flat Creek, Potlatch Creek, and the head waters of Lahtoo or
Hangman's Creek. These streams all flow through deep callons with
narrow valleys or through deep depressions bounded by rolling hills.
Besides these there are numberless smaller streams.
Considerable scab land exists in the western and northwestern parts
of this section. The land so designated by the people of.the country is
that where the original volcanic rock is exposed and uncovered by any
soil. Patches of this exposed rock exist scattered through the most
fertile regions. This is the most fertile, most thickly settled, and best
known of the four sections north of the Snake. Several fine towns have
been started in this country; the principal one, and the one which is
destined to become quite a railroad and commercial center, is Colfax, at
the junction of the north and south forks of the Palouse. Probably not
more than one-tenth of the land in this section is taken up and occupied.
The western portion is devoid of timber, but in the eastern portion
about the headwater streams of the Palouse and IHangt~ian's Creek,
plenty of fine timber exists.
One of the most singular and prominent features of this section is
Steptoe Butte, a perfect cone, elevated about 2,000 feet above the surrounding country, standing quite alone, isolated from any neighboring
peak or range.
Another singular feature of this section is the fact that a number of
the streams run in a direction parallel with the Snake. Union Flat Creek
heads about six or eight miles from the Snake River, to the northeast of
Lewiston, and then takes a northwesterly course, and for seventy miles,
until it flows into the Palouse, keeps at about the same distance from
the river. Rebel Flat Creek, Willow Creek, and the main forks of the
Palouse all follow the same general direction, making to a great extent
the same bends. It is probable that glaciers moving in this general
direction must be assigned as the causes of this parallelism.
The falls of the Palouse form another of the interesting objects of
this section. In the lower portion of its course the Palouse flows through
a deep fissure in the basaltic rock, portions of which take fantastic forms,




COLUMBIA RIVER.


117


as towering pinnacles, &c. At the falls the river descends perpendicularly for about 120 feet into a narrow basin, from which it flows off
through its deep canion for about nine miles to the Snake River. The
salmon ascend only to the falls; and the Palouse Indians have a legend
which tells of the wickedness of the Indians higher up the country, and
how the Great Spirit in his displeasure placed the falls as a barrier to
the further ascent of the salmon.*
THE SPOKANE SECTION.
This section is more varied than any of the others. In its southeastern
part is Coeur dlAlene Lake and the fine timber-covered country surrounding it. In its northeastern and eastern part are the gravelly Spokane Plains and the fertile prairies embedded in the northern woods.
Its western portion comprises some of the finest farming lands in the
Territory, among which are those known as the Deep Creek, Four Lakes,
Upper Crab Creek, Hawk Creek, and Cottonwood Spring Counties,
Gordon Prairie, &c. The Spokane River runs through this section,
giving water transportation for the timber from the great forests about
its headwaters, and furnishing one of the finest water-powers in the
world. The main line of the Northern Pacific Railroad runs diagonally
through the section. Along the Spokane River, below the falls and upon
its small tributaries, there is a good deal of timber, which will furnish
the inhabitants and settlers with wood and lumber for a number of years,
until more railroads are built and the commerce in grain, fuel, and lumber becomes established.
Due west from Spokane Falls and extending in a westerly direction
is the divide, between the streams which flow north into the Spokane
and south into Crab Creek. This divide is no higher in appearance than
the country to the north and south; it abounds in springs and swales,
where the waters collect and then flow away as rivulets and brooks
through the gently-rolling hills at first, finally becoming more deeply
encaijoned as they near their destination at the greater river or creek.
Of course those flowing north into the Spokane cut more deeply than
those flowing south. This divide is of importance in the economy of
the country, as it furnishes an excellent route for a railroad, which will
pass through an extremely fertile and desirable country, and be easily
accessible from both sides throughout its entire length. This railroad
is one which in the near future must certainly be built. Its startingpoint must be at the falls of the Spokane, from where it will stretch
away westward to the Okinakane and vicinity of the Wenatchee, bearing in one direction its loads of grain to be ground into flour for shipment
to the great world, and in the other direction the fuel, lumber, and merchandise required by the inhabitants of the country through which it
passes.
Among the singular features of this country are the Spokane Plains.
Lying along the banks of the Upper Spokane, and extending off towards
_  Stanley.




118


COLUMBIA RIVER.


Pend d'Oreille Lake, there is a system of nearly level plains rising one
above the other into terraces towards the north. These plains are composed chiefly of gravel and bowlders, and the vegetation on them is
slight, and they are not well adapted to farming purposes. The higher
terraces seem to be much better than the lower ones, as there is more
good rich soil intermixed with the gravel on them.
It would be a mistake, however, to suppose that these plains are valueless. They are well adapted to grazing purposes, and throughout there
are large patches and strips where the rich soil has collected in sufficient quantity and depth to give most excellent farming lands. Some
of the garden farms on these fertile patches are already famous for the
quality and quantity of their products.
Upon this gravel plain, just above where Hangman's Creek joins the
Spokane, is situated the city of Spokane Falls, and it certainly is unexcelled in the whole world as a town site. There will never be anymud,
and pavements will never be needed in this beautiful'place, which is
already assuming the dignity and business appearance as well as the
name of a city. The Northern Pacific Railroad here crosses Hangman's
Creek, and first reaches the Spokane River; several other railroads
have been projected which, when built, will make the town an important
railroad center. Its situation and natural advantages must make it a
place of consequence, and great things are predicted of it.
The climate is truly delightful and of the most undoubted healthfulness. In the vicinity are all the elements which go to make up an
attractive place of residence; beautiful scenery of varying plain and
mountain, prairies, and timbered hills, lovely lakes for boating, fishing,
bathing, &c.; a picturesque river abounding in the finest trout; unexcelled rides and drives, and hunting of all kinds, from prairie shooting
to deer, elk, and bear hunting among the summits and gorges of the
mountains.
Coeur d'Alne Lake is an extremely beautiful sheet of clear water, well
stocked with the finest trout and surrounded by beautifully formed,
timber-covered mountains. Its main feeders are the Coeur d'Alene and
Saint Joseph rivers, flowing from the Bitter Root Mountains. On the
banks of these streams and in their vicinity there are splendid bodies of
timber, which at some time must become very valuable. These rivers
are not now in a good condition to run logs on, being blocked up with
fallen timber, which will have to be cleared out before they can be used.
Once cleared out during high water, logs can be taken down without
limit or trouble. The lake lies at the same general level as the lower
Spokane Plain, and is an old eroded basin formed at a period of greater
elevation than the present. About eight miles down the Spokane River
from the lake there is a very great contraction of the river at the Little
Falls. This has had the effect of slowing up the waters between it and
the mouth of the lake, and depositing a large amount of gravel, pebbles,
and bowlders, thus damming back the waters into this eroded basin




COLUMBIA RIVER.                   119
and forming the lake. Little bottom land lies along the lake, and the
banks are generally steep and high.
In the Four Lake country there are three small lakes, whose waters
are strongly impregnated with the carbonate of soda, and which have
been dubbed the Medical Lakes. The water has a very soapy feel and
effect, and is delightful to bathe in. The effects of a strong and continued wind storm on the lakes is very curious; the water is lashed into
a soapy foam very white and light, which collects on the banks to a
depth, at times, of several feet.
THE CRAB CREEK AND GRAND COULEE SECTIONS.
This is a portion of the country which is and has been very little
known. Its remoteness has deterred settlers from going to It. Before
I first went into the section, inl 1879, I could obtain very little information in regard to it. Then, allthe inhabitants were three or four cattleraisers living along Crab Creek —  Portugee Joe," living on Kenewaw
Run, and " Wild Goose Bill," on the headwaters of Wilson Creek.
The establishment in 1879 and abandonment in 1880 of the military
post of Camp Chelan, caused many people, in the capacity of teamsters
and other government employes, as well as the military, to go over the
country, and a knowledge of it has been thus acquired and disseminated, and now there are quite a number of settlers who have gone into
the country to make themselves homes. Of course it cannot become
much of an agricultural country until a market for its products is
afforded by the construction of a railroad into it. This section has
never seemed to enter into the minds of people except as a broken and
almost desert land, but I speak from a knowledge acquired by traveling
over nearly the whole of it, and I shall not hesitate to characterize it as
a very fine agricultural and grazing section. The country between
Crab Creek and the Columbia is well watered by streams heading along
the divide already mentioned, which lies quite near the Columbia; these
streams flow with more or less water, according to the season of the year,
through valleys of varying width, in a southwesterly direction, to Crab
Creek. The land about the heads of these creeks and that lying
between the creeks along their lower course is of the finest quality,
growing the most luxuriant bunch-grass and giving every evidence of
being a magnificent grain country.
In 1880 I laid out a wagon-road from Ritzville, on the Northern Pacific Railroad to Camp Chelan, a distance of one hundred and seven
miles. Over nearly the whole of this distance I found the bunch-grass
growing strongly and well, and the soil of undoubted fertility. The
rolling hills to the south of Crab Creek for a distance of from five to
twenty miles are of the same exellent quality as those to the north. Of
course there is some poor land in the area east of the Grand Coul6e, but
as a whole it is scarcely to be surpassed.
The Grand Coulee is the most singular, prominent, and noted feature




120


COLUMBIA RIVER.


of this portion of the country. It commences on the Columbia between
the mouths of the Sans Poil and Nespilem rivers and extends in a southwesterly direction for fifty-five miles, when it merges into the bowldercovered, prehistoric Columbian Lake mentioned in the geological chapter of this report. Except at one point it is a deep chasm, with vertical,
impassable walls, averaging about 350 feet in height. About midway
between its extremities these walls are broken down, entirely so on
the east, and so much so on the west that a wagon has no difficulty in
ascending. The coulee here is partially filled up by the broken-down
hills. The cause of this break seems to have been a flood of water or
ice coming in from the northeast and flowing off down through the coulee chasm. Many rounded bowlders are here found in the soil, and
great rocks of large size, which could only have been transported by the
agency of ice. To the north of this middle pass the bottom is quite
level; it has some springs and small ponds, and can be traveled without difficulty. It is in some places nearly four miles wide. The southern
portion is very narrow, and the bottom is filled with a succession of
lakes, the northern ones being of clear, white, sweet water filled with
fish; toward the south the lakes become more and more strongly impregnated with alkali, until the one at the end of the coulee is of the
most detestable unpalatable nature. At its junction with the Columbia
the coulee is crossed by a very bad wagon-road, and a trail crosses it
about seven miles from the Columbia. The only other place where it
can be crossed is at the Middle Pass mentioned above.
I first called attention to this Middle Pass in 1879, and located a
wagon-road across it in 1880. It is the only place where, by any means,
the coulee can be crossed by a railroad from the Columbia to its end
near Moses Lake. The southern portion of the coulee from this point
cannot be crossed or traversed owing to the lakes and steep walls.
To the west of the Grand Coulee there is another running nearly parallel with it, known as Moses or Little Coulee. This has a number of
springs and much good land in it. The land between the two coulees
is mostly rich and covered with bunch grass. This Moses Coulee comes
to an abrupt end, inclosing a little lake.
Foster Creek, with its many branches and fertile soil, lies to the north.
Many springs and little lakes exist throughout this portion of the section under discussion. There is every inducement in the way of natural
advantages for thousands of settlers in this portion of the country.
West of Moses Coulee there is a condsiderable area of timber land,
and the vegetation indicates a rich soil, but water is not plentiful. It
may be obtained by digging, but this has not been tried, and hence is
uncertain.
In the southwestern portion of this section lies Badger Mountain.
This could only be called a mountain in a country as fiat as the Great
Plain, and does not deserve the name. It is a long, rolling divide, whose
sides are cut by gullies, in many of which springs are to be found. The




COLUMBIA RIVER.                    121
soil of this mountain appears to be exceedingly rich, and, indeed, if I
was asked to name the richest, most fertile area in this whole Columbia
Basin, I know of none that I would name before Badger Mountain.
The vegetation is indicative of its fertility, being, besides bunch-grass,
rose bushes, choke-cherry bushes, haws, willows, &c., all growing thick
and strong. The country is well watered, and will, in time, have an easy
outlet by the Columbia River, and deserves the attention of everybody
having the great transportation and other interests of the country in
hand.
Throughout this section the Great Plain lies about 2,000 to 2,500 feet
above the river level, and it is extremely difficult to get from one to the
other. West of the Grand Coulee, the only practicable railroad route to
the Columbia, that I am sure of, is by way of Foster Creek.
By this route an excellent grade can be made to the river. It is possible that by the way of Moses Coulde, or the southern side of Badger
Mountain, an easy way to the river may be discovered.
The commercial center of this section will probably be somewhere in
the vicinity of the Middle Pass of the Grand Coulee. Another and
greater center will, in the future, be located near the mouth of the
Okinakane.
THE MOSES LAKE OR DESERT SECTION.
This last one of the four sections which I have been considering, can
be dismissed with a few words, and those almost entirely of condemnation. It is a desert, pure and simple, an almost waterless, lifeless
desert. A few cattle exist along the Columbia, where they can reach
the river for water, and some more along the lower Crab Creek below
Moses Lake. This section is much lower than the remainder of the
Great Plain, and evidently was a lake for hundreds of years, forming
deposits several hundred feet in thickness, and which are plainly shown
at the White Bluffs and Crab Creek Coulee.
A large portion is covered with bowlders embedded in a loose, light,
ashy soil; other portions are covered with drifting sands, and, taken
all in all, it is a desolation where even the most hopeful can find nothingin its future prospects to cheer.
Crab Creek sinks soon after receiving the waters of Wilson Creek, and
rises just above Moses Lake, of which it is the only feeder. At this
point the water is passably good to drink. Moses Lake is stagnant,
alkaline, and unlit for any use. At its lower end are great sand dunes
and sandy wastes.
The water seeps through this sand and rises again a few miles to the
south and flows southwesterly to Saddle Mountain, where it is turned
to the west, sinking and rising several times. I do not think that it
now ever reaches the Columbia. Below Moses Lake the creek water
is alkaline, filled with organic matter, and unpalatable.
S. Ex. 186 —16




122


COLUMBIA RIVER.


The following account of a journey across the two western sections of
the Great Plain is from my report to the Chief of Engineers in 1880:
In August, 1879, I left Walla Walla and proceeded to Wallula, and thence up the
Columbia to the White Bluffs. At the head of the long island, we left the river to
look out for a practicable route for a wagon-road to the military camp, then in the
vicinity of the mouth of the Okinakane, on the supposition that it was to be permanently located there.
We reached the top of the bluffs, which are here about 540 feet high, by going up
through a long gulch greatly beaten by cattle. The soil is dry and is ground to
powder by the feet of the cattle wherever they make a path, and is not well suited
for a road. We however found, a short distance down the river, a gulch, up which
the ascent to the top of the bluffs is easy and gradual.
From the summit the country spreads out, gently rolling, as far as the eye could.-each, to the northeast and east. To the north and northwest a small mountain chain,
devoid of timber, stretched itself from east to west across our way. It is called Saddle
Mountain. The country was covered with a luxuriant growth of bunch-grass, with
here and there a tract of sage-brush. The soil is of firm and excellent quality. Quite
a large number of cattle were seen, all of which had to descend to the river for water.
Proceeding somewhat to the northeast, to skirt Saddle Mountain, we soon found ourselves getting into a country more sandy and more rolling, and our mules and horses
had greater difficulty in getting along. In the afternoon, being on the lookout for'
water, we made for a green-looking spot off to the east, hoping it was a spring. In
this we were disappointed, and we continued on our way until nine o'clock at night,
when, not finding any water, we unloaded and made ourselves as comfortable as possible without it. The next morning before daylight we took up our laborsome march
through the sands of the desert and traveled until about two in the afternoon, when,
as our animals were suffering intensely from thirst, and as we were uncertain about
what lay before us directly north, we concluded to strike to the westward, as from
all the indications it was more likely to give us a supply of water. About three o'clock
we came to an old road, which gave indications of having at one time been well traveled, and we turned and followed it to the northward, trusting that it would take us
to water.
At five o'clock our animals seemed utterly unable to carry their packs any further,
and so we unloaded them and piled up our baggage and kept on without it. About
nine o'clock that night we came to a small alkali pond, which, vile as it was, seemed
like nectar to us and to our poor horses and mules.
The country we had traveled was covered partly with sage-brush, bunch-grass, and
weeds, and was utterly waterless and lifeless. Not even the cheerful coyote lived
there, for not one lulled us to sleep or molested our abandoned provisions and camp
equipage. The next day we found the fine spring which feeds the alkali pond above
mentioned. I afterwards learned that it goes by the name of Black Rock Spring.
Here the face of the country changes to a certain extent and becomes more broken up.
Black Rock Spring is at the head of a coul6e which extends off to the southwest, and
probably as far as Moses Lake. From Black Rock Spring we kept to the north, and
in about nine miles came to Crab Creek, which is here quite a stream, flowing through
a rich bottom half a mile wide. Up the stream the bottom narrows and becomes a
chasm, formed by the perpendicular and overhanging walls of basaltic rock. Lower
down the bottom became a marsh, entirely filling the space between the basaltic walls,
in which the creek sinks to collect again further below. Where we crossed it the bottom
was good, and the descent and ascent from the great table land were comparatively
easy. A goodly number of fine fat cattle inhabited this valley and the adjoining high
grounds, and no doubt fine gardens could be made and nearly every garden vegetable
raised.
Leaving Crab Creek we went nearly northward, taking as a guide the Pilot Rock,
a mss of rook about thirty feet high, but which, on account of the general flatness of




COLUMBIA RIVER.


123


the country, can be seen for a great distance in every direction. Soon we crossed
Kenewaw Run, the dry bed of a winter stream, now containing a scanty supply of
water in lakes and springs. Leaving this we crossed shortly afterwards Wilson
Creek, a fine little stream flowing through a rich bottom. It and Kenewaw Run are
deeply imbedded below the general surface of the Great Plain of the Columbia, have
fine soil and abundant grazing in the bottom and the adjacent hills and upper plains for
great numbers of cattle or horses. The scarcity of timber of any kind for fuel and
building purposes is, and must always be, a great drawback to the settlement of this
section. Keeping on over the part of the Great Plain lying between Wilson Creek
and the- Grand Coul6e, a rich rolling country covered with a luxuriant growth of
bunch-grass, we descended by mistake into the Cold Spring Coul6e, down which runs
the great trail of the Indians from the Spokane country to the Wenatchee and Moses
Lake countries. We climbed out of this coul6e, and, passing over the broken and
rocky summit between the two coul6es, we descended by a long gradual slope of about
three miles into the Grand Coulee. The Pilot Rock was right above us, on the western bank, to the north. Here in this vicinity is the best place to cross the coul6e for a
road going east and west. The bottom of the coul6e is uneven and more than a thousand feet above the present level of the river. The sides show no water-marks. We
went north through the coul6e, its perpendicular walls forming a vista like some
grand old ruined, roofless hall, down which we traveled hour after hour. The walls
are about 300 to 400 feet high. At about seven miles from the river a trail crosses the
coulde, and we turned here and went to the west until we struck Foster Creek, down
which we kept, following the wagon-road made by the troops which preceded us,
to the winter camp, and which crosses the coul6e at its junction with the Columbia
River.
Some good ranching land lies along Foster Creek, and all over the northern portion
of the Great Plain bunch-grass grows in the greatest luxuriance. There are numerous little ponds, which, fed by springs, keep a supply of water all the year, and also
numerous springs of excellent water.
Pursuant to instructions from General Howard, Lieutenant-Colonel Merriam and I
began a search for the most suitable location for the new post. We examined both
sides of the river from the mouth of the Okinakane to Lake Chelan, and decided that
the most advantageous sight, taking everything into consideration, was at the outlet
of Lake Chelan, the plateau on the north side of the lake and river. An unlimited
supply of timber and pure water is at hand and available for every purpose. Lake
Chelan is a wonderfully beautiful sheet of water, about sixty miles long, according to
the Indians, and from one to five miles wide. It seems to be, and is in fact, a dammedup mountain cailon of the most rugged and pronounced description. The water is of
diamond-like clearness, and yet in places no sight can penetrate to the bottom of its
liquid depths. It is supplied from mountain springs and from the melting snows of
the mass of snow-capped mountains lying about it.
In a dug-out canoe paddled by old In-na-ma-setch-a, the chief of the Chelans, and his
two sons, Colonel Merriam and I went up the lake about twenty-four miles, and found
it to increase in rugged grandeur and beauty at every paddle-stroke. Walls of granite
rose in places almost vertically for a thousand feet above the waters and down below
them farther than the eye could reach. Elsewhere the steep mountain walls were
covered with fine pine and fir and dense undergrowth. Game was abundant, as evidenced by the game-trails and the reports of the Indians. At one of our landings
Colonel Merriam killed a black bear and saw two others. We were sorry not to be
able to go any farther up the lake. It is the most grandly beautiful body of water
that I have ever seen. Lying about two hundred and fifty feet above the Columbia,
it discharges its waters through a gorge, a cleft-like channel a mile and a half long
and only a few feet in width.
After deciding upon the location of the post, I left the temporary camp to go to the




124


COLUMBIA RIVER.


Spokane Falls and Fort, Cenr d'Alne. The country traversed was nearly all rolling
bunch-grass land of the richest descriptiQn, and the most of which will, I believe, be
available for raising grain.
WALLA WALLA SECTION.
The Walla Walla section, bounded on the north by the Snake and Columbia Rivers and on the south by the Blue Mountains, is too well known
for any description here to be necessary.
YAKIMA SECTION.
The Yakima section is sufficiently described in another portion of this
report.
LEWISTON AND MOUNT IDAHO SECTION.
The Lewiston and Mount Idaho section alone remains to be noticed.
This is bounded on the north and east by the Clearwater, on the west
by the Snake, and on the south by the Salmon River, and although it
can scarcely be considered a part of the Great Plain of the Columbia, it
is intimately connected therewith.
Denudation has done a wonderful work here. One standing on the
highlands to the north of the Clearwater and looking to the south sees
Craig's Mountains as a. level plain, covered with timber. This plateau
of Craig's Mountains has an elevation of 4,300 feet above the sea and
3,000 feet and more above its encircling rivers. The rivers have cut
through this elevated plateau, and the local waters have washed it down
into gradual slopes toward them. Standing on the eastern edge of this
plateau and looking to the east, one can contemplate the almost incredible work that has been done in sculpturing the country to its present
form; he can readily see that the plateau on which he stands is a fragment of an immensely greater plateau which at one time extended unbrokenly away to the east, to the distant summit chains of the Bitter
Root Mountains, and that the great caflons of the rivers surrounding
him, and those seen in the distance, in which flow the many branches
of the Clearwater and Salmon, have all been excavated from the plateau on which he stands. Any conceivable time will appear to him too
short for the work before him.
Upon the plateau of Craig's Mountain the frosts are too severe to
allow of agriculture, but in all the low country about it the soil is of
extreme richness. A large portion of the section is taken up by the
Lapwai or Nez Perce Indian Reservation. To the southeast of Craig's
Mountain lies Camas Prairie, a very fertile region, in which are situated the towns of Grangeville and Mount Idaho.
The only outlet of this Camas Prairie country is by the wagon-road
over Craig's Mountain, which is excellent in the summer and autumn,
but almost impassable during the winter and spring.




COLUMBIA RIVER.


125


CHAPTER Xl.
THE GEOGRAPHICAL NOMENCLATURE OF THE COLUMBIA RIVER REGION.
The subject of the geographical names of a, country, their origins,
meanings, modifications, changes, loss, and final adoption is one of absorbing interest, especially to the student who wishes to trace the history
of his country from its earliest settlement to its full development.
The geographical names in this country of the Columbia are derived
from the following sources:
1. Indian names.
2. Names given by the early navigators of Spain, England, and the
United States.
3. Names given by the early explorers, as Lewis and Clarke, Bonneville, Fremont, and others.
4. Names given by the early fur traders.
5. Names given by the final and permanent settlers.
In regard to the first of these sources, it is of course highly desirable
to retain, as far as possible, the names of places as given by the Indians.
This is, however, often rendered extremely difficult, from the fact that
the same thing may receive different names from different tribes, or even
from the same tribe, and that Indian names often are simply generic,
applying to all or many things of the same sort. As example may be
cited the different names given to the Willamette by the different tribes
living along it; the Snake, also, where it flowed through the Palouse
Indian country was called by them the Palouse; where it flowed through
the Nez Perc6 country it was called the Nez Perc6, and through the
Snake country the Snake.* Indian names are often of such extreme
length that people cannot be induced to retain them. Thus the Ne-hoial-pit-qua River has become changed, by common consent, into Kettle
River, and is so called even by the Indians themselves. The settlers of
a country rarely have sufficient regard for their savage neighbors to
wish to retain their nomenclature, and the consequence is it is soon com-.
pletely replaced by one, as a general thing, very unpoetical and commonplace.
The Spaniards have left few names to commemorate their. explorations along the coasts of Oregon and Washington. The names given by
them, generally in honor of some saint or in commemoration of some
church festival, have been replaced by others given by the English and
American navigators who succeeded them.
Many of the names given by the early explorers still remain and will
continue so to do. Where they are not Indian names they were generally given in honor of some public functionary, or some of their own
men, or descriptive of some peculiarity or occurrence.
* Mullan




126


COLUMBIA RIVER.


The names given by the early fur traders are chiefly French, as the
voyageurs were mostly French Canadians, and are, as a general thing,
descriptive, as for instance, the Des Chutes River or La riviere aux
Chutes, the river with falls; " Les Dalles des Morts," the Rapids of the
Dead or Death Rapids, &c. These names have in many instances been
changed into their English synonyms, as the Chaudi~re has become
Kettle Falls.
The names which are finally adopted and live, belong to all the preceding classes and to the last class, or those given by the permanent
settlers. The great majority of these latter names refer to some characteristic, and as many places have the same characteristics it results
that there are a great number of Willow, Rock, Trout, Mill, Salmon,
and Cottonwood Creeks, &c. This multiplication of objects bearing
the same name is a great inconvenience at times. Many names are
given in remembrance of localities in distant States and foreign lands,
as Portland, Albany, Damascus, &c., or in honor of some distinguished
citizen of the world, as Colfax, Astoria, Mount Jefferson, Abert Lake,
Vancouver, &c. Many are given in honor of the first or some prominent settler in the locality, as for instance Wilson Creek, Prineville,
Powell's Valley, Applegate Creek, Ritzville, &c.
Some names show in a high degree the poetical and religious aspirations of those giving them, as for instance Aurora, Zion, Sweet Home,
Sublimity, Buttercup, Glad Tidings, Corvallis, &c.
In the works relating to the Columbia region I have found a great
diversity in the manner of spelling certain names as well as in the
names themselves, and as there have been articles written about some
of these names, and the proper mode of spelling them discussed, I give
in the following pages such information in regard to them as I have
been able to gather.
The proper and complete study of the geographical names of this region would take vastly more time and labor than I have been able to
devote to it. It is to be hoped that some one may take up the subject
and carry it to completion.
CCEUR D'ALENE.
This name, which literally translated means " heart of awl, was applied to the Indians living about the lake which now bears this name,
by the French voyageurs and partners of the Hudson Bay Company.
These Indians used to come to Spokane House with the furs which they
had gathered to trade. They brought them of such fine quality and in
such quantity that the Hudson Bay Company deemed it desirable to
establish a branch post among them, and made them a proposition to
that effect. To it the Indians replied " No; that their country was so
beautiful that when the white men saw it they would want it for themselves; that they were willing to come to Spokane House and trade,
but that they did not want the white men to come into their country."




COLUMBIA RIVER.                          127
They were, moreover, very sharp and cute at bargaining, and were considered the "' Yankees" of the Indian race. The whitesgave them the
name of Caeur d'Alenes, " Awl-hearts,"     Sharp-hearts," or " Pointedhearts," as indicative of their characters as sharpers and cheats at bargaining, and on account of their persistent refusal to allow the white
men to come among them. This origin of the name was given me by
Father Eells, of the Chemakane Mission. It is about the same as that
given by Lieutenant Mullan.      Coeur d'Alene Lake was called by its
Indian name of Sketch-hugh Lake, by Alexander Ross.
A. N. Armstrong, a writer on Oregon and Washington Territory, in a
book written in 1856, gives the following explanation concerning the appellation Cour d'Alene, as applied to the " Skitsuish or Coeur d'A16ne
Indians?:
Amongst the first traders that visited this tribe was a Canadian of a close, niggardly disposition. The natives were not long in discovering this, and made in their
own language a derisive remark respecting him, to the effect that "the white man had
the heart of an awl," meaning that he had a contracted, illiberal disposition; the
term " awl" being used by them as we sometimes use the word "pin," to denote a
very trifling object. The interpreter rendered the sentence " Cour d'Alene," greatly
to the amusement of the trader's companions, and from that day to this the tribe has
been known as the Coeur d'Alene Indians.
I am inclined to give the latter explanation credence over the former,
as it seems to me more reasonable, and from the fact that the early traders did go among these Indians and trade with them, and a mission
was established on their lands, to which they did not seriously object.
Ross Cox, one of the first party of the Astorian fur traders to go into
their vicinity, and whose book, published in 1832, gives about the first
account of the country ever published, says:
The Pointed Hearts, or, as the Canadians call them, les Coeurs d'At1nes (Hearts of
Awls), are a small tribe inhabiting the shores of a lake about 50 miles to the eastward
of Spokane House. Their country is'tolerably well stocked with beaver, deer, wild
fowl, &c., and its vegetable productions are similar to those of Spokane. Some of the
tribe occasionally visited our fort at the latter place with furs to barter, and we made
a few excursions to their lands. We found them uniformly honest in their traffic, but
they did not evince the same warmth of friendship for us as the Spokanes, and expressed no desire for the establishment of a trading post among them. They are in
many respects more savage than their neighbors, and I have seen some of them often
eat deer and other meat raw. They are also more unfeeling husbands, and frequently
beat their wives in a cruel manner.
PALOUSE.
This word seems to be a corruption of the French word pelouse —
greensward, lawn, &c. It is very descriptive of the country to which
it is applied, which is a rolling bunch-grass covered section. It is written " Pelouse" by many old writers. Notwithstanding these facts there
is a strong probability that the word from which it is derived is an Indian word. Lewis and Clarke call the Indians inhabiting the country
to the north of Snake River in the lower part of its course the Selloat



128


COLUMBIA RIVER.


pallahs. Pallahs and Palouse are very similar in sound. AlexandeI
Ross, when about to start on a trip after furs, in naming over the Indians with him speaks of a Palooche, which is also similar to Palouse.
Ross also speaks of the Indians living along Snake River as the Palletto-Pallas, the Shaw-ha-ap-tens, and the Paw-luch, &c. Pallas and Pawluch both are very similar in sound to Palouse.
The history of the word would then seem to be that it is an original
Indian word similar in sound to the French word pelouse, which, on
account of the early inhabitants being largely French, came to be considered as the original word, and that this, in the course of events, was
changed to the spelling now generally adopted, Palouse.
The names by which the Palouse River has been known, as given by
different writers whose works I have consulted, are as follows:
Acqua-aye-seep. Indian name. Mullan.
Drewyer's River. Lewis and Clarke.
Pavilion River. A. Ross.
Pavion River. Irving.
Pelouse River. Paul Kane.
Paluce or Pavilion River. Paul Kane.
Palouse and Paloose. Mullan.
Pelouse. Steptoe.
Pelouse. Wright.
Pelouse. Pacific Railroad Reports.
Peluse. Pacific Railroad Reports.
Pavilion River. Rev. S. Parker.
Paloose. Armstrong.
SPOKANE.
Whether to put the final e on this word has been a much-discussed
question, and has divided the people of the Spokane region into two
parties. A majority, however, seem to desire the e, and so it will finally
be adopted, in all probability, and go down to futurity. There seems to
be about as much authority for spelling it one way as another. The
only clew that I have been able to obtain to the meaning of the word is
in the book of Ross Cox, where he speaks of the chief of the Indians of
the region as Illim-Spokan&e, which means the " Son of the Sun." From
this, and from the nature of the country in which they lived, it is fair to
infer that their tribal name meant something like Children of the Sun.
They lived principally on the great sunny plains of the Spokane, while
many of the neighboring tribes lived in the woody, mountainous regions
of Coeur d'Alene, Pend d'Oreille, Kootenay, and Colville rivers.
I have been told by men long resident in the country that the original
word was pronounced with a slight vowel syllable e at the end-Spo-.
kan-e. This vowel syllable, indistinct at best, was soon dropped by the
busy whites, who love not long names.
In an official Congressional report submitted January 19,1822, and
in one submitted May 15, 1826, the post at Spokane is called Lantou




COLUMBIA RIVER.


129


and Lanton. This is probably the same word as Lah-too, mentioned
by Mullan as the Indian name of Hangman's Creek.
In speaking of the Astorian trading establishments these reports say:
"One of these subordinate establishments appears to have been at the
mouth of Lewis River (Fort Nez Perce or Walla Walla, where Wallula
now stands); one at Lantou (Spokane House, near the junction of the
Spokane and Little Spokane rivers); a third on the Columbia, 600 miles
from the ocean, at the confluence of the Wantana River (Fort Okinakane); a fourth on the East Fork of Lewis River (I believe this was on
the Clearwater at the mouth of Lapwai Creek, where the Indian agency
now is, but I am not certain); and the fifth on the Multnoma (Willamette)."
The following are the methods of spelling the word Spokane, as
adopted by different writers:
Spokan............-Official transfer papers, Pacific Fur Company to Northwest Fur Company.
Spokan..-............... Ross Cox.
Spokane........-.... War Department map, 1838.
Spokane.-.........-. Commodore Wilkes.
Spokein.......-.......Rev. S. Parker. This writer, who visited the country in
1836, says: "The name of this nation is generally written Spokan, sometimes Spokane. I called them Spokans,
but they corrected my pronunciation and said Spokein,
and this they repeated several times, until I was convinced that to give their name a correct pronunciation it
should be written Spokein."
Spokan....-........ —. Greenhow.
Spokain. —..-... —...... McVickar.
Spokan....... ---... ---.Nath. J. Wyeth's report, 1839.
Spokane..-..... ---..  Robertson.
Spokane.-.. ----........  Thornton.
Spokane... —......-.... A. Ross.
Spokan. —...-... ---...Franchere.
Spokan.. —.... ---... ---Irving.
Spokan........ ---... ----National Railroad Memoir.
Spokan............ ---. Armstrong.
Spokan.-........-.......St. John.
Spokane -—..... ----.. —..........Pacific Railroad Reports.
Spokane.-... ---...-...Mullan.
Spoken —..-... —.. Robertson and Crawford.
OKINAKANE.
I have never been able to determine the meaning of this word.    It
has been spelled in a great variety of ways, and it is difficult to adopt
a spelling which will be satisfactory to all. The above is the spelling
as adopted in the Pacific Railroad Survey Reports and the Northern
Boundary Survey Reports.
The Okinakane is called the Wantana River in Congressional reports
of 1822 and 1826, referring to a military establishment at the mouth of
the Columbia.
S. Ex. 186-   17




130                        COLUMBIA RIVER.
The following show the modes of spelling the word by different authors:
Otchenaukane ---...-..... Lewis and Clarke.
Okunaakan.............. Official transfer papers, Pacific Fur Company to Northwest Fur Company.
Oakinagan........ ---...... Ross Cox.
Okenakan. —............ Franchere.
Okanagan.............. War Department map, 1838.
Okanagan. —............... Cushing's Report.
Oknagan.-............. Nathaniel Wyeth.
Oknagen............... Nathaniel Wyeth.
Oakenagen............. H. J. Kelly.
Okonagan........    Commodore Wilkes.
Okanagan. --- —-. —..Rev. S. Parker.
Okinagan................. Greenhow.
Okanagan............... Robertson.
Okonagan................ Thornton.
Oakanagan............... A. Ross.
Oakanazan................ A. Ross.
Oakinacken............ A. Ross.
Ross says Indian name for Okinakane Lake is Sawth-lelum-tak-ut.
Okinikaine.............. Warner.
Oakinagan................ Irving.
Okanagan................ National Railroad Memloir.
Okanegan............... National Railroad Memoir.
Okinakane............. Pacific Railroad Reports.
Okanagan................ Paul Kane.
Okinakane............   Northern Boundary Report.
Okinakane........ —. Mullan.
Okinagan.-........... McVickar.
Oknanagans. —............ Robertson and Crawford.
Okonagan............... R. M. Martin.
Okanagan..........-...Armstrong.
NEZ PERC:,
As applied to the Indian tribe, is a miismnomer.  Lewis and Clarke record
their arrival among the Cho-pun-nish or Pierced Nose Indians, as they
call themselves.  No writer has ever accused them of piercing their
noses, and it is certain that they never did so except in very isolated
cases, if at all. They have been described by a number of early explorers, but this custom has never been mentioned. It is certain that
they do not do so now.
FLAT-HEAD,
As applied to the tribe of Indians inhabiting the country about the
headwaters of the Columbia and Missouri, is a misnomer. These Indians never were guilty of the deforming habit of flattening the heads
of their children. Many writers have described them      and none have
mentioned the custom, although it has been repeatedly described as
being practiced by the Lower Columbia Indians. Their Indian name,




COLUMBIA RIVER.


131


as they call themselves, is Selish, according to most writers, the meaning of which I do not know.
The Rev. S. Parker, who traveled among them in 1835, says:
I was disappointed in seeing nothing peculiar in the Flathead Indians to give them
their name. Who gave it to them, or for what reason, is not known. The name given
them by the Nez Perces, which is Sailcp does not signify flathead.
COLUMBIA RIVER.
The Columbia River was first called the Oregon, from the mention of
the name by Carver.
In 1575 it was called Assumption Inlet, by Heceta. In the charts of
his voyage, soon after published, it was called EnseInada de Heceta, and
Rio de San Roque.
In 1789 it was called Deception Bay, by Meares.
In 1792 Gray called it the Columbia. Captain Clarke says that in
1805 the Indians called it the Shocatilcum, and another tribe called it
Chockalilum, both being the same name, differently pronounced, in all
probability. This Indian name very probably signifies Water-friend, or
Friendly-water. In the Chinook language Chuck signifies water, anid
tillicum friend; hence the name Chuck-tillicum, or Shocatilcum.
SNAKE RIVER.
The Snake River was called Lewis River by Captains Lewis and
Clarke. Its Indian name was Saptin, or Sahaptin, Shoshone, Palouse,
Nez Perce, or Cho-punnish River, the name varying with the different
Indian tribes inhabiting its bordering country.
YAKIMA.
Yakima has been spelled a variety of ways:
Eyakema. ---.-. ----.... Lewvis and Clarke's report.
E-yack-im-ahl........  A. Ross.
Ekmaa..... ---...... —... ational Railroad memoir.
Yackalnan-.-... —.-.. Ross Cox.
Yakima. -...... --- —.. Pacific Railroad Reports.
Tapetete.  -........ Lewis and Clarke's map.
Tlpatele.......... —...-. Rector and Roberdean's map.
Tapetelle.................. Finley's map.
Eyakema.. —... --- —------ War Department map, 1838.
Eyakemna............   Robertson.
Yakima................. Conmmodore Wilkes.
Eyakama. —... ---...-..  Paul Kane.
Yakima.................. Thornton.
DES CHUTES.
Des Chutes River, called La Riviere aux Chutes by Fremont and the
early French voyageurs, often called Falls River by the early settlers,
and finally changed to Des Chutes River. Its Indian name wasTo-wal-na-hiooks........ According to Lewis and Clarke.
To-war-nah-cooks........ According to Finley's map.
To-war-na-he-cooks...... According to Rector and Roberdeau.
Low-hum......... According to Alexander Ross.




132


COLUMBIA RIVER.


UM ATILLA.
Umatilla has been spelled as follows:
Umatallow.............. — War Department map, 1838.
You-ma-talla...-.. -—. Alexander Ross.
Umatallow............... Alexander Ross.
Umatalla................  rving.
Eu-o-tal-la............... Irving.
Your-ma-talla.,...... Rector and Roberdeau's map.
Umatilah................ Fr6mout.
Umatilla...........-..... National Railroad Memoir.
Umatillah.......M........  Mullan.
Umatilla................. Mullan.
Umatella.............. Rev. S. Parker.
HANGMAN'S CREEK.
This beautiful creek took its detestable appellation from the fact that
on its banks in 1858 Colonel Wright caused to be hung the Indians
captured by him who had been guilty of murder and other crimes.
Its Indian names given by Mullan were Nedlewhauld, Nedwhauld,
Lahtoo, or Camas-prarie Creek.
It would be highly commendable to the people of the section if they
would change the name from Hangman's to Lah-too or Nedlewhauld
Creek.
ROCK CREEK.
In Eastern Washington Territory Mullan says this was known to the
Palouse Indians as the Wah-rum, and to the Spokanes as the Oraytay-ous, and the upper part of it as the Sil.seip-o-vet-sen, or Sil-saypoo-west-tsin.
UNION FLAT CREEK.
Indian name, Smokle Creek. Mullaln.
PINE CREEK.
Indian name, Ingossoimen Creek. Mullan.
STEPTOE BUTTE.
Named for Colonel Steptoe, who was defeated on the Butte by the
Spokane and other Indians, called Pyramid Butte in the Pacific Railroad Reports.
Its Spokane and Coeur d'Alene Indian name was Se-emp-tee-ta, and
its Palouse and Nez Perc6 name was E-o-mosh-toss. Mullan.
WENATCHEE.
CalledWah-na-a-cha, by Lewis and Clarke.
Pisscows, by Alexander Ross.




COLUMBIA RIVER.


133


Pisquouse or Wenatshapan: Pazcific Railroad Reports.
Piscous: War Department map, 1838.
Pisehous: Commodore Wilkes.
Wainape: Called by some of the Indians, according to Commodore
Wilkes. None of the early writers called it the Wenatchee.
METHOW.
CalledMeathow and Buttle-mule-emauch or Salmon Fall River, by A. Ross.
Barrier River: Commodore Wilkes.
LAWYER'S CANON AND CREEK.
Named for Lawyer, a head chief of the Nez Percts.
TACOMA.
Tacoma is the Indian name for Mount Ranier, and signifies the Nourishing b) east. This name was given it probably both on account of its
shape and from the fact that it is a great center from which rivers flow
in every direction, nourishing the land and supplying fish. This is the
name of the highest and grandest mountain in Waslington Territory,
and it is the hope of many people that when a State is formed of the
Territory it may receive the name of TACOMA.








MAP OF THE UPPER COLUMBIA RIVER,
FROM THE INTERNATIONAL BOUNDARY LINE TO SNAKE RIVER,
ON A SCALE OF ONE INCH TO TWO MILES.
25 SHEETS AND AN INDEX SHEET.
FROM SURVEYS AND EXAMINATIONS MADE IN 1881,
BY
LI:UT'r. THOMAS W. SYMONS, CORPS OF ENGINEERS,
Chief Engineer, Department of the Columbia,
AND
ALFRED DOWNING,
Topographical Assistant, U. S. Army.
1Drawxi by ALYtERED     D(OWNI   NG.
These sheets arec numlbered consecutively from the boundary to Snake River, and can be joined
together into one sheet if desired, showing the river continuously.


135 f








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THE UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN
GRADUATE LIBRARY


DATE DUE


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