ILLUSTRATlED HIISTORY,
COMPRISING IN A CON)DENSED FORM A
HISTORY OF TlHE UNITED STATES,
-AGEOGRAPHY " WESTERN CON.TINENT
AND THE CHIEF OBJECTS OP LNTEEEST ON
THE EASTERN CONTINENT,
INCLUDING A ITlSTORICAL AND DESCIIPTIVE SKETC1H OF
THIE HGOLY LtAN D)
W. S. CLARK.
ILLUSTRATED  BY STEREOSCOPIC VIE WS
PUBLISHED BY
E. &i H. T. ANTHONY, NEW-YORK.
PUBLISHED BY
J. HT. CLARK & CO..
ROC:KFOID, ILLINOIS.
ROCKFORD REGI0SJTER ST'EAi PRINTINl:   l10U.tSI.
1870.




P'REFACE.
This work has been prepared for the purpose of bringing
within the reach of all, the important matter of History and
Geography il  a condensed fbrm, and illustrated in such a manner -as to make clear and lasting impressions on the mind of the
Scholar, and serve as an incentive to study.  This study has
been sadly neglected, not because of its unimportance, but from
the long, dry, and tedious manner in which it has been presented.
The wood cuts which usually accompany Histories, generally give
a very imperfect idea of the scene intended to be represented.
Accompanying this work are Stereoscopic Views taken from
the object itself, showing nature and art as they actually exist,
and as they would appear if seen with. the naked eye.
INSTRUCTIONSo
This History, Stereoscope, and Views, wi].ll be furnished inA
Sets.  The Viewns that are sent to a Townliship all differ, and by
changing, from time to time, ea;ch district can' have the benefit
of the whole numnber.  In the bacl part of the Book -'ill be
found a list of headings, giving the page and division of the
catiogue under which will be icumd. the title and nuimber corresponding with that on tlhe View.  YWThen a view is feirnished that
isnot embodied in. the catalogune, -grmes vill be set on the face
side of the View, de-oting'the page in the History, except when
a sufiicient description is printed on the back of the view.
The HistoryI can be used  uith gtreat success wiyth but a single
copy in the School, by giving each scholar in the class so much
time for the study.  WThe-n m-ore are required they can be
obtained of Agents, or by ordering.
All orders in the Northwest must be sent to.J......'1.  CLAIiK  & C0.,
-.:.o oe:, 2'};J.z J o'i.




C ONTENTS.
PART I.
CHAP.                                                     PAGE.
I.  Discovery of America,   -    -    -    -                1
II.  Colonial History of the New England States,             7
IIL    "6       ((      "    Middle States,      -         21
IV.     "                "'L   Southern States,     -      27
V.  Causes of the Revolution,                              45
VI.  The War for Inlependence,        -       -    -       4:9
VII.  The Adminisfrations,       -                           58
VIII.  The Civil War,   -..                    72
IX.  Close of the Civil War, a               -               92
X.  North American Indians)                                96
X I Decla3ra.tion of Independeoncce,    -  -07
TI.  ConLstitut.iorn of the United,sItates,  -            112
Amendments to the Constitution,             -        125
Emancipation Proclamationl                          131.
PAPr -Lr 1L
CHAP.                                                     PAGE,
1.  Geographical Hi istory of the New Einglaind States,  1t59!IL                               M'I.;' "   M[iddl e Statc'-   -    173
I.         "L    "C   SotheSouthern   sta;te,   -  221
IV.;                 "   Western ti:;ltes,t  -    249
V.        4i"                "   Territories, )        -  305
~V.'~         "      of  British America, -    312
VII.                    "'  AMexico, -                     316
VIII.    Clentral Armerica,                                  325




IV                       CONTENTS.
CHAP.                                                PAGE.
IX.                  "          West Indies,          328
X.                  "      "   South America,        333
PART III.
CHAP.                                                PAGE.
I.  Geographical History of the Brit. Isles, England,  343
Scotland,  348
Ireland    352
II:.       i        s li   of France, -    -    -    355
III.       6s " Switzerland,   -    -  359
IV.        "    "             Austria,     -          367
Prussia,   -            369
Germany,                371
Russia,   -    -    - 372
V.             " "           Italy,   -    -         374
the Papal States,.   381
VI.                           China,  -    -    -    386
Japan,               -  389
VII.  Historical and descriptive sketch of Palestine and
adjacent Countries,  -                        390
Geographical History of Sinai,               - 409
Greece,  -    -    -    409;      4"     Egypt,           -    - 411
Catalogue of Views,              -    -    -    413
List of Headings,   -                           436




OF THE
UNITED STATES.
CHAPTER I.
DISCOVERY OF AMERICA.
The United States consists of thirty-six States and ten Territories. This country is bounded by the great lakes and the
British possessions on the north, the Atlantic ocean on the east,
the gulf of Mexico and Mexico on the south, and the Pacific
ocean on the west.                          r
The American continent, or New World, as it is sometimes
called, was discovered by Christopher Columbus, in the year
1492.  Columbus was a native of Genoa-born about 1435.
His father was a wool-comber, but gave his son advantages of
education, particularly in geography, mathematics, and astronomy, for which he early displayed a decided taste. When he
was fourteen years of age he went to sea. A few years later,
while in the service of a kinsman who commanded a small Genoese
squadron, and taking part in an engagement with some Venetian
vessels off the coast of Portugal, his ship caught fire, and he
leaped into the waves and barely saved his life by swimming
ashore. He was attracted to Lisbon by the fame that Portugal
had won by her maritime enterprise, where he married the daughter of an eminent navigator, the access to whose charts and
journals awakened within him an ardent desire for discovery.




2                DISCOVERY OF AMERICA.
From this time to 1477 we find him engaged in various voyages
to the Canaries, the Azores, Madeira, and the coast of Guinea
and Iceland.
The geographical researches of Columbus convinced him that
the earth was round, and that there must necessarily be land in
the western hemisphere to counterbalance the eastern continent.
The maps to be obtained in his day gave but little information
respecting the extent of Asia. He imagined that it extended
much further east than it really did, or that the coast was lined
with large islands extending within a few hundred leagues of
Europe. Pieces of wood, strangely carved, had been picked up
by sailors in the unknown ocean. Upon one island were found
the bodies of two men totally different in appearance from the
natives of Europe and Africa. These circumstances confirmed
him in his belief, and he sought means of testing its truth. In
order to carry out his project effectually he must have men and
ships. His first proposals were made to the senate of his native
city, but were rejected. His next application was to John II.
of Portugal; who, after drawing out his plan, treacherously sent
a vessel on the proposed course under another commander, but
happily gained nothing by his baseness. Columbus then sent his
brother Bartholomew to Henry VII. of England, but he was
captured by pirates, and it was years before he reached London.
Being unsuccessful in Portugal, in 1484 Columbus went to Spain,
where for a time he supported himself and son by making charts
and maps.  "At last he succeeded in procuring an interview with
Ferdinand, king of Aragon. This cautious monarch, after listening to his projects, submitted them to the learned men of the
university of Salamanca, by whom they were once more condemned."  After several years Columbus finally obtained an
interview with Isabella, the wife of Ferdinand, and queen of
Castile and Leon. To enable him to appear at court she sent
him about seventy dollars, with which he purchased a mule and
suitable clothing. The queen was moved by his arguments, but
was unwilling to furnish the required aid. More disheartened
than ever Columbus was on the point of abandoning Spain, when
at last, by the advice of wise counsellors, Isabella determined to




DISCOVERY OF AMERICA.                 3
embark in the enterprise, even if she had to pledge her jewels
in order to procure the necessary funds.  Columbus was commissioned as High Admiral and Viceroy of all the countries he
might discover, and went to Palos to fit out the expedition.
There was great difficulty in finding sailors for such a voyager
but with the aid of the queen three small vessels, none of them
being over one hundred tons burden, and ninety men were
obtained. The Santa Maria, which bore the flag of Columbus,
was the only one that had a deck. The Pinta and Nina were
commanded by two brothers by the name of Pinyon. They provided themselves with provisions enough to last one year. The
whole expense of the outfit was only ~4,000.
This little fleet sailed from Palos August 3, 1492. A full
sense of the dangers they might encounter seized on the sailors
when land faded from their sight, and their fears were gradually
increased, till, on the expiration of twenty days without seeing
any signs of land, they began to talk of throwing Columbus
overboard and returning home.  "The variation of the compass
had not yet been discovered, and their alarm was greatly heightened when they observed that the magnetic needle no longer
pointed directly north. It was a trying hour for Columbus, but
his great mind was equal to the crisis. Explaining the variations of the compass in a manner satisfactory to his followers,
though not to himself, he used every means to induce them to
prosecute the voyage, now picturing to their minds the riches
they would obtain, and now threatening them with the anger of
their sovereign. At last both officers and men insisted on returning, and Columbus was obliged to promise that unless land
appeared within three days he would comply with their demand.
The shallowness of the water, the numerous birds of the air, the
grass and weeds floating by, a branch that was picked up with
berries still fresh upon it, all made him sure that he could give
this promise with safety." On the evening of October 11th, the
sails were furled, and a close watch kept. About ten o'clock a,
moving light was discovered by Columbus and several others,
and at two in the morning a shout from the Pinta proclaimed
the discovery of land, and at daybreak was displayed to the




4                DISCOVERY OF AMERICA.
overjoyed adventurers a scene of strange beauty. The land was
covered with the forests and gay foliage and blossoms of a tropical clime. The natives thronged from the woods and gazed with
wonder and astonishment at the ships, which, with their white
sails, they regarded as huge birds hovering over the sea. "Columbus was the first to touch the newly discovered shore. Richly
attired and with drawn sword, he landed. Kneeling on the sand
he kissed the earth and returned thanks to God. When he had
taken formal possession of the country in the name of the king
and queen of Spain, his followers rendered him homage as viceroy, and the inhabitants, regarding the Spaniards as a superior
race, prostrated themselves at his feet."  The land first reached
was one of the Bahama islands, to which Columbus gave the
name of San Salvador, by which name it is still known.
Having learned from the natives that gold was to be obtained
further to the south, they soon sailed in that direction and discovered Cuba and Hayti. One of his vessels having been wrecked
he left thirty-five of his men in Hayti, and on the 1st of January,
1493, embarked for Spain.  A  violent storm  on the return
voyage threatened his frail vessels, and Columbus, fearing his
discoveries would be lost to the world, wrote an account of them
on parchment, which he secured in a cask and threw into the sea,
hoping that the winds and waves might cast it ashore. But he
was mercifully spared to make known personally his discoveries.
The shattered vessels finally entered the port of Palos in safety,
amid the acclamations of the people and the thunder of cannon.
Columbus presented himself before the king and queen and laid
before them the history of his discoveries, exhibited specimen
products of the new world with the natives whom he had brought
with him, and in return was loaded with the highest honors.
On the 25th of September, 1493, Columbus started upon his
second voyage to the new world. This time he had a fleet of
seventeen vessels and one thousand five hundred men.  On his
arrival at Hayti he found thathis colony had been cut off. By
their injustice and cruelty to the natives they had provoked them
to summary vengeance. After providing for the erection of a
fort on this island, Columbus proceeded to explore the surrounding




DISCOVERY OF AMERICA.                  5
islands.  Soon after completing this work he was delighted
by the arrival of his brother Bartholomew, whom he had not
seen for thirteen years, and who, on returning from his unsuccessful mission to England, was sent by Isabella with supplies to
the new world.
The followers of Columbus, being disappointed in obtaining
gold, began to murmur and complain of his management of
affairs~ the result of which was, an emissary of his enemies was
sent out to examine into it.  Columbus returned to Spain and
plead his own cause before the throne. He established his innocence and was received into favor.
In 1498 he made his third voyage, directing his course nearer
the equator than he had previously done. During this voyage
he discovered the island of Trinidad and the coast of South
America, near the mouth of the Orinoco river.  In the current
from the mouth of this great river his fleet was for a time in
great danger. This led him to believe that so mighty a stream
must belong to a continent. On his return to his colony on the
island of Hayti he found Bovadilla, whom, at the instigation of
his enemies, the Spanish sovereign had vested with power to
examine into his conduct, and if needful to supersede him in
command.
Columbus was sent back to Spain in chains. The captain of
the vessel, grieved to see so great a discoverer treated in this
manner, offered to remove his chains. But Columbus, indignant
at the ingratitude of his country, would not allow them to be removed, and ordered that they should be buried with him. Every
charge made against him he repelled, but his sovereign never had
the justice to restore him to his station, and when it became
necessary to remove Bovadilla on account of his mismanagement,
Ovando was appointed his successor.
Though feeling deeply this ingratitude, and also the infirmities
of age, in 1502 Columbus set out on a fourth voyage.  He still
entertained the belief that the land he had discovered formed a
part of Asia, which delusion he did not live to have dispelled.
The object of this last voyage was to discover a new passage to
India by sailing further west. He explored the coast along the




6                DISCOVERY OF AMERICA.
gulf of Darien. But at last, after a succession of disasters in
the attempt to reach Hayti, he was wrecked off the coast of
Jamaica, where, being nearly reduced to starvation and in danger
of attacks from the Indians, he saved himself and his followers
by an ingenious stratagem. From his knowledge of astronomy
he knew that an eclipse of the moon was to take place, and calling the natives around -him told them that the Great Spirit was
displeased with them on account of their treatment to the white
man, and that He would, that night, hide his face from them.
When the moon became dark they were convinced of the truth
of what he had said, and brought him supplies, and besought him
to pray to the Great Spirit to receive them into favor again.
After undergoing extraordinary hardships, Columbus finally
reached Hayti, and returned to Spain in the summer of 1504.
Queen Isabella had died a short time before, and the remaining
two years of the great discoverer's life was shrouded in gloom.
He died at Valladolid in the 71st year of his age. His chains were
put in his coffin as he requested, and his remains now rest in
the cathedral of Havana.
Encouraged by the success of Columbus, other Spanish navigators had found their way to the new world. Among these was
Ojeda, in whose company was a well educated Florentine gentleman who published an interesting description of the lands he had
visited.  His name was Americo Vespucci.  His was the first
written account of the western continent, and as it left Columbus
out of view, the continent, instead;of being called after its real
discoverer, was named from this Florentine, America.
The early inhabitants of this country were the North American Indians, but they, as a nation, have long since passed away,
although a remnant still linger in some of the States and in the
Indian territory, and beyond the Rocky mountains.
The three oldest towns in the United States are St. Augustine,
in Florida, founded by the Spaniards in 1565; Jamestown, in
Virginia, founded by the English in 1607; and Plymouth, in
Massachusetts, in 1620, also by the English.




CHAPTER II.
NEAW ENGLAND.
MASSACHUSETTS AND RHODE ISLAND.
The history of New England begins with the landing of the
Pilgrim Fathers, who were Englishmen, belonging to a sect of
Christians called Puritans. During the reign of the Roman
Catholic Queen, Mary of England, their ancestors had been
driven to the continent of Europe, where they had learned a
more simple mode of worship than that practiced by the English
church. On the accession of Queen Elizabeth, having returned
to their country, they refused to become members of the established church, or to submit to its usages. They were therefore
nicknamed Puritans, and were persecuted for their non-conformity, as it was called.
These persecutions they endured for about fifty years, when a
small company of them, in the year 1608, fled to Holland. Here
they remained until 1620, when they resolved to go to America.
They went to England in a small vessel called the Speedwell,
where they remained about two weeks, and set sail for America.
But the Speedwell proving unseaworthy, they were obliged to return, and this vessel and those of the company whose courage
failed them were dismissed, and the rest crowded into the Mayflower.
On the 6th of September, 1620, this frail bark, bearing its
precious burden, lost sight of English ground. The number of
Pilgrims was a hundred and one. While on shipboard they drew
up a body of laws which'they resolved to obey, and chose John
Carver for their governor. This first American constitution
was drawn up and signed on the lid of a chest of Norway pine
belonging to Elder Brewster. This chest is still preserved in
the Atheneum at Hartford.
It was the intention of the Pilgrims to settle near the mouth
of the Hudson river, but owing to the ignorance of the captain




8                COLONIAL HISTORY OF THE
they were landed on the barren coast of Massachusetts. Considerable time was spent exploring the coast for a suitable landing
place, and Plymouth Rock being decided upon, the sea-wearied
Pilgrims, on the 21st of December, after a three months' voyage,
stepped ashore. "Tradition says it was the foot of Mary Chilton,
a young maiden of the band, that first pressed Forefathers Rock,
as it is still named and honored by their descendants."
"The heavy night hung dark,
The hills and waters o'er,
When a band of exiles moored their bark
On the wild New England shore.
Ay, call it holy ground,
The soil where first they trod!
They have left unstained what there they found,
Freedom to worship God."
Severe trials awaited them in their new home. Disease and
famine did their fearful work. Among the victims were Governor
Carver, his wife and child. In the spring, only forty-six of the
one hundred and one passengers were living. But during this
time they were mercifully preserved from the murderous tomahawk of the Indian, a pestilence, the year before, supposed to
have been the small pox, having carried off the most savage of
the tribes. The first Indian they met was Samoset, who greeted
them with the cheering salutation: "Welcome, Englishmen!
Welcome, Englishmen."  He was from what is now called Maine,
and had learned to speak English from the captain of a fishing
vessel on the coast. He informed them that Massasoit, the great
chieftain of that region, was approaching with his warriors.
Samoset was engaged as interpreter, and by means of a few
kindly presents, the sachem's good will was secured, and a treaty
made which was faithfully kept for more than fifty years.
Through Massasoit's influence, ninety less powerful chiefs were
brought into treaty, and Canonicus, the only hostile one, was
awed when the Governor returned the arms and rattlesnake skin
which the savage had sent him in token of defiance, stuffing the
latter with powder and ball.
Between the years 1620 and 1630, various settlements were
made by individuals and parties around Massachusetts Bay, at




NEW ENGLAND STATES.                  9
Charlestown, and Cambridge and Salem. Colonists were enabled
to emigrate to this country by means of merchants, residing in
London and the west of England, forming themselves into companies and obtaining from the King grants to settle particular
plantations in America, with certain rights and privileges of
commerce and government. These grants were called charters.
These companies furnished ships and sent out colonists who were
to cultivate the land, and procure fish and furs, the profits on
which articles it was expected would repay the company in
England for the expense of sending them out.
Several gentlemen of family and fortune, belonging to the
Massachusetts Bay Company, agreed themselves to go to New
England, provided they could carry their charter along with
them, and their government not managed by a council of the
company in England, as was usually the case. This privilege
was granted, and Mr. Winthrop and many other distinguished
men embarked for New England on the 8th of April, 1630.
After a somewhat boisterous voyage, this little fleet of five vessels
was anchored at Charlestown. Here they were kindly received
by the former colonists, and began to build, intending to make
it their permanent home, but they found but one spring of water,
and that so brackish that disease carried off many of their numbers.  The new colony was threatened with destruction, and,
being invited by Mr. William Blackstone to join him on the south
side of Charles river, where he had built his lowly hut, they
gladly removed thither.
They named their new settlement Boston, in honor of a much
beloved pastor of Boston, England, who afterwards joined the
new colony, where he was highly honored.'" One of the first
acts of the colony was to draw up a confession of faith, and enter
into a church covenant. This was done with the utmost solemnity,
after a day of fasting and prayer. Mr. Blackstone, who was
an Episcopalian, was invited to join this church, but he replied
very quaintly,'I came from England because I did not like the
Lord Bishops; but I cannot join you because I would not be
under the Lord Brethren.'"




10              COLONIAL HISTORY OF THE
The little village of Boston grew rapidly. The inhabitants
were noted for their industry, sobriety and honesty. The Governor forbade cards and gaming tables, and discouraged the
drinking of toasts. A man was whipped for stealing a loaf of
bread, and another for shooting fowls on Sunday. Mechanics
and masons worked diligently at their trades. Vessels were
built to traffic with other settlements on the coast; one of which,
called the Blessing of the Bay, was launched July 4th, 1631.
Education was by no means neglected. Harvard College was
founded in eight years after the founding of the colony. It was
named in honor of John Harvard, who, dying, left to this institution eight hundred pounds. In the year this College was founded,
a printing press was set up in it by a man named Glover, but
there was little progression made in this art the first forty years
of New England history.
The next year after this colony was established, Mr. John
Eliot, the first Missionary to the Indians, joined them. He
visited the Indians in their wigwams and taught them to read
and pray; also translated the Bible into their language. A copy
of this book is still preserved, but only the title, "Up Biblum
God," meaning the book of God, can now be read. The language has perished with the race.
Between the years 1630 and 1636, persecution in England
was revived, driving many wise and able men to the colonies.
In the year 1635, three thousand emigrants arrived at Boston,
among whom was Sir Henry Vane; an intimate friend of the poet
Milton. He was soon elected Governor. Though the Puritans
had left England to secure religious liberty, they were unwilling
to grant it to others, and required every one to attend their
worship and conform to their opinions. Roger Williams, a young
preacher settled at Salem, was the first to teach that every one
had a right to worship God as he saw fit, and that bigotry in
New England, as well as in old England, was contrary to reason
and the Bible. His listeners became warmly attached to him,
but his enlarged views, so far beyond the age in which he lived,
alarmed the Boston Puritans and made him enemies. They were
shocked at his saying that civil magistrates were bound to protect




NEW ENGLAND STATES.                  11
the lives and property of peaceful citizens of any creed; and that
it was their duty to restrain crime but not to control opinion.
The number of his enemies increased, his wife was for a time influenced by his opposers, and his home made unhappy. He was
at last censured and pronounced unsound in judgment; and on
his election as pastor by the people of Salem, a tract of land was
withheld from them by the Boston council by way of punishment.
A spirited remonstrance from Williams and his congregation
followed; in consequence of which, the town of Salem was
disfranchised by the next general court. His supporters, frightened at these measures, finally submitted, and Williams was left
to advocate his cause alone. At last the sentence of banishment
was pronounced. He had hoped to remain until spring, but the
prospect of losing him awakened the affections of his people, and
the general court, fearing his influence, commanded him to embark
for England, and officers were sent to convey him to the vessel;
but he had fled from Salem with the determination to find in some
other part of the new world, the freedom which was denied him
there. For fourteen weeks he was a wanderer in the wilderness,
amid the snows of a severe winter, " sorely tost in a bitter season,
not knowing what bread or bed did mean."  He was kindly
received by the Indians, whose language he had learned, and to
whom he ever proved a patient missionary. Massasoit and the
chief of the Narragansetts received him as their guest.  Of them
he purchased a tract of land on the bay bearing their name.
Here, with but five companions, he commenced a settlement
which he named Providence, in grateful acknowledgment of the
hand which had guided his wanderings.  Thus originated the
first settlement in Rhode Island.
In 1639, Newport was founded near an old stone tower. This
curious structure, twenty-four feet high, was evidently of great
antiquity. The Indians were unable to give any information
respecting its origin. The same principles prevailed and were
carried out in both the Providence and Rhode Island colonies,
though they were at first independent of each other. In 1644
they received a charter and were united under the name of the
Rhode Island and Providence Plantations.




12              COLONIAL HISTORY OF THE
CONNECTICUT.
The Connecticut, so called from its Indian name, which means
long river, was discovered by the Dutch in 1614. They established a trading place near where Hartford now stands. Until
the year 1630, they enjoyed undisputed possession of the country,
when reports of the fruitfulness and beauty of this region reaching England, it was granted to the Earl of Warwick, who
transferred it to Lord Say-and-Seale and Lord Brook.
Previous to this, settlements had been made from both Massachusetts colonies. The Dutch had tried to prevent the first
comers from sailing up the river, but without success.  The
founders of the busy little State of Connecticut were the excellent of the earth.  Between the years 1633 and 1636 four
flourishing villages had sprung up on the banks of its beautiful
river, viz: Windsor, Hartford, Saybrook and Wethersfield,
and in 1638, New Haven, now one of the loveliest cities in all
New England, was founded by a Puritan pastor.
The country between the Connecticut river and the Narragansett Bay, was thickly peopled with Indian tribes, the most
powerful of which were the Pequods, Mohegans and Narragansetts. The Pequods, fearing the power of the English, endeavored
to form  a league with the Narragansetts.  Roger Williams
learned that proposals of this kind were being made, and resolved
to plead for his persecutors and defeat the plans of the Pequods.
Setting out in a fearful storm, he made his way to the nearest
Narragansett village, where he found the Pequod embassadors
and nearly lost his life by interfering; but he pleaded his cause
nobly, and after some hesitation the Narragansetts refused to
become the Pequod's allies.
In May of the year 1637, the authorities of Connecticut
declared war against the Pequods. With a band of ninety men,
seventy from Connecticut and twenty from the Bay Colony, the
colonists entered upon their first warfare.  The Pequod confederacy consisted of twenty-six tribes, numbering over two thousand
men. Their principal villages were on what is now called the




NEW ENGLAND STATES.                  13
Thames River, and to attack them the colonist soldiers now
directed their march. On the 26th of May, just before sunrise,
they cautiously approached the huts of the sleeping savages.
The Indians had set no sentry, and the barking of a dog gave
the first alarm.  In confusion, amid cries of "Owanux!"
"Owanux!" (the English! the English!) they rallied with bow
and arrow for the fight, and defended themselves with great
bravery. The result of the battle was still doubtful, when a
blazing brand was thrown among the mats with which one of the
wigwams was covered, and thus were the fortunes of the day
decided. The English and their red allies, the Mohegans, formed
a circle around the burning huts, and slew their enemies without
mercy, as they were driven into sight by the fire. Only two of
the English were lost, while the fort and the wigwams of the
Indians were burned, and six hundred Pequods, men, women, and
children, were slain. The next morning a body of three hundred
Pequods arrived from another village; and though they fought
with desperation on seeing the destruction of their homes and
relatives, they too were defeated. Two hundred of the survivors
surrendered in despair to the English. They were either sold
into slavery or incorporated among the friendly tribes; and the
name of Pequod became extinct.
After the first victory the Narragansett tribe had joined the
English, but the latter made a poor return to their chief, Miantonomah, for his services. A war having broken out between
the Narragansetts and Mohegans, Miantonomah was captured.
" Let him be delivered to his old enemy, Uncas," said the ungrateful men of Connecticut. The savage Mohegan took him to
a solitary place and in the presence of two settlers tomahawked
him, and, cutting a piece of quivering flesh from his victim's
shoulder, ate it, declaring it the most delicious morsel he had ever
tasted.
Connecticut, now free from danger, grew and prospered. It
was her happy lot to be blessed with God-fearing governors.
The rights of voting and holding office were confined to church
members, and the Bible was adopted as the rule of public action.




14              COLONIAL HISTORY OF THE
MAINE AND NEW HAMPSHIRE.
The territory which now constitutes the States of Maine and
New Hampshire was divided between Sir Ferdinand Gorges,
John Mason and others. In 1623 the settlement of New Hampshire was commenced at Dover and Portsmouth by the gentlemen to whom the country had been granted.  John Mason
became sole proprietor of a large part of the country, and the
claims of his heirs furnished a fruitful source of contention.
The settlements were annexed to Massachusetts in 1614, and so
continued till 1679, when a separate government was instituted
for New Hampshire. In after years, when Massachusetts had
lost her charter, and was under royal rule, the two provinces
were occasionally united under one governor. In 1741 they
were finally separated, and from that time until the war of independence, the two colonies had separate royal governors.
THE UNION OF THE COLONIES.
The New England colonies began about this time to feel the
necessity of union. They were threatened by the Indians on
one side, and the Dutch and French on the other, which, with the
attempts in England to take away their charters, led them to
unite. This first confederation of New England colonies took
place in 1643. It lasted fifty years, and when broken up by the
loss of their charters, the colonists still cherished a desire for
union. The colonies forming this union were Plymouth, Massachusetts Bay, New Haven, and Connecticut, under the name of
"The United Colonies of New England."  At this time the population numbered about twenty thousand, scattered through fifty
villages. Each colony retained the control of its own territory;
but all matters of common interest and questions of war and
peace were decided by a council consisting of two commissioners
from each. In times of war each colony was to furnish men and
money in proportion to its population. This confederacy may
be considered as the germ of the American union.
Rhode Island refusing to be included in the Plymouth colony
was not admitted to the confederation.




NEW ENGLAND STATES.                 15
DOMESTIC LIFE, CHARACTER, AND LAWS OF THE PURITANS.
Their condition, of course, was materially the same as that of
the English people at that time. The use of chimneys was
becoming common, though opposed by some who thought smoke
improved their health and hardened the timbers of their houses.
Pewter dishes and spoons were taking the place of wooden ones.
Boards and unhewn logs were mostly used in building. Rye,
barley and oats were the principal food, and the taste of meat
was hardly known in thousands of families. The condition of
the people in Massachusetts was considerably better than this.
After the first few years of scarcity they lived more comfortably
and independently than the same class in the old world.
The Puritans of New England imbibed a strong aversion to.
the manners and customs of those who had persecuted them.
They opposed the use of veils, wigs, silken hoods and scarfs, and
discountenanced all frivolous fashions in dress, and forbade the
observance of Christmas.  Comparing themselves to the Israelites of old, they tried to conform to the laws and habits of the
chosen people who fled from bondage in Egypt to an unknown
wilderness. Like them, their Sabbath began at the going down
of the sun on Saturday evening, and was observed with the
utmost strictness. Prayers and sermons were esteemed according to their length, and the children and servants were regularly
catechised.
Their laws condemned all wars that were not defensive, and
penalties were attached to gambling, intemperance, and other
immoralities. Interest on loaned money was forbidden, and
blasphemy and idolatry were punished with death.
Persecuted Christians, of their own faith, were supported for
a time at the public expense; but priests, Jesuits and Quakers.
shared the hatred of the Puritans and were forbidden to set
foot within their limits.
The Quakers were first known as a religious body in England
in 1644. They were followers of George Fox. They believed
that God communicated directly with the spirits of men, and
considered all human interference in religious matters as wrong,




16              COLONIAL HISTORY OF THE
and boldly proclaimed that " God was come to teach his people
himself." They practiced the utmost simplicity in dress and
language. They would neither bear arms nor take an oath.
They denounced ceremonies, pleasures and show, and abhorred
titles; and generally addressed others by the appellation of
Friends. Anxious to propagate their religion, they had turned
their eyes to America, but here they met with persecution as
well as in England. The Puritans seemed to have forgotten
their own sufferings, and displayed the same persecuting spirit
from which they had themselves fled. If one of the Quakers
was found in their colonies he was to lose an ear, and if he returned the other ear was forfeited, and for a third offence his
tongue was to be pierced with a red-hot iron. But they gloried
in their persecutions. Fines, whippings and tortures could not
keep them away. Finally the sentence of death was pronounced
on all that should appear the second time in the colonies. Three
men and one woman were victims of this cruel law. This law
was finally repealed, and the Quakers being whipped out of the
colony the excitement gradually died away.
The Puritans were only carrying out the intolerant principles
that were being practiced in every Christian country. To Roger
Williams and. Lord Baltimore belongs the honor of first rising
above the bigotry of the age.
KING PHILIP S WAR.
The Puritans, during the long struggle between Charles I. and
his parliament, had sided against the king, and were therefore
treated with great liberality and favor when Cromwell assumed
the government.
In 1658 Cromwell died, and Charles II. was restored to the
throne of England.  The first vessel that left for the colonies
after this event brought over three of the regicides, Goffe,
Whalley, and Dixwell. They found refuge in the house of Mr.
Russel, minister of Hadley, where they lived in profound concealment.
The Massachusetts colonists were obliged to acknowledge the
authority of the new sovereign of England. A public address




NEW ENGLAND STATES.                 17
was presented to his majesty, in which they appealed to him for
a continuation of their liberties, and pardon for having sided
against his father. The king confirmed their charter and pardoned past offenses, but required the Puritans to extend the
right of voting to those who were not church members, to take
the oath of allegiance, and to tolerate the church of England.
Scarcely were these troubles ended when the colonists were
involved in a long and bloody war known as King Philip's war.
Philip was the younger of the two sons of Massasoit. He had
become hostile to the English on account of the death of his
brother, which he ascribed to them. Alexander had died of a
fever brought on by mortification at being arrested and imprisoned by the English. Philip was the most powerful sachem of
the New England tribes, and determined to avenge the death of
his brother. The first hostile deed was the murder of nine men
at Swanzy, of the Plymouth colony. All the horrors of the
Pequod were renewed, and on a much larger scale. The mother
retired to rest to be awakened at midnight by the dreadful warwhoop, to see her children cut down by the merciless tomahawk.
The family on their way to church were exposed to the attacks
of a cruel and cunning enemy. Goffe, the regicide, had been a
military commander. Looking from the window of his hiding
place, on a sabbath day, after the people were collected for public worship, he saw a body of ambushed Indians stealing upon
them. He suddenly made his appearance before the gathering
worshippers, his white hair and beard and loose garments streaming to the winds. " He gave the alarm and word of command,
and the men already armed, at once formed and bore down upon
the foe. After they had conquered they looked around for their
preserver, but he had vanished, and they fully believed an angel
was sent for their deliverance."
When this war ended twenty-five villages were in ruins and
one white family in every twenty had been burned out. But the
fate of the Indians during this struggle was more terrible than
that of the whites. They often perished in their burning wigwamrns. Many were made prisoners and sold into slavery, some
2




18              COLONIAL HISTORY OF THE
wandered away and joined other tribes, and when King Philip
was shot he was almost the last of his tribe.
In 1677 the charter struggle was again commenced. The
king declared that Massachusetts had no jurisdiction over the
provinces of Maine and New Hampshire. Maine was purchased
by a Boston merchant for about six thousand dollars, and thus
became a part of Massachusetts.
New Hampshire was made a royal province, and a governor
and council were appointed.  The colonists were obliged to use
the liturgy of the English church and observe its fasts and festivals. King Charles II. also demanded that Massachusetts
should submit to laws passed in the English parliament, oppressing the commerce of the infant colonies. Willing to yield
everything but their charter, they, by an act passed in their own
general court, bound themselves to obey the English laws of
trade. They would willingly and cheerfully give up Maine and
everything except the right of " government within themselves,"
which their charter granted. This struggle was at its heigh
when Charles II. died, and the Roman Catholic James II.
ascended the throne. He declared there should be no free governments in his dominions, and determined to take away from
the New England colonies their charters. Sir Edmond Andros
was chosen to carry this plan into effect, and was appointed
governor of the New England province.
On the 30th of December, 1686, Sir Edmond Andros landed at
Boston. He demanded the charters, and those of Massachusetts
and Rhode Island were surrendered. He then proceeded across
the country to Connecticut with an armed force, determined to
take away their liberty; but the Connecticut people were not
wanting in shrewdness; the charter was not immediately presented but the subject discussed until evening, when the lights
were suddenly put out, and during the darkness the charter was
carried off by William Wadsworth, and hid in the hollow of an
old oak tree. Being unable to obtain the charter, Andros
inquired for the records of the colony wrote under them the
Latin word "finis," which means the end. Sir Edmond began




NEW ENGLAND STATES.                  19
his career with the most flattering professions of his regard to
the safety and happiness of the people, but "Nero concealed
his tyrannical disposition more years than Sir Edmond did
months." But the day of his power was soon over. In April,
1689, news reached the colonies that James II. had been driven
from the throne, and that Mary and William had been placed
upon it. All Boston was aroused; companies marched through
the streets with drums and colors, and Governor Andros was
thrown into prison. Joy was universal throughout the colonies;
the general court assembled; the charter oak yielded its precious
treasure, and " finis " was erased from the records.
In 1688 the union of the Connecticut and Massachusetts colonies was broken up. Rhode Island and Connecticut were permitted to keep their charters, but Massachusetts by a new charter was made a royal province with a governor appointed by the
king. New Hampshire was separate from Massachusetts and
had also a royal governor.
The principal event in New England between the years 1689
and 1700 was a war carried on with the French and Indians.
When King William ascended the throne he was at war with
Louis XIV. of France. This was soon extended to the French
and English colonies in America. In conducting this war the
French called to their assistance the services of the Indians.
Nova Scotia was given up to the French, and peace was made
between the countries in 1697.
The first war of the eighteenth century was Queen Anne's
war. The cruelties practiced in King William's war were
repeated in this. The town of Deerfield, in Massachusetts, was
attacked in February, 1704, by a party of two hundred French
and one hundred and forty-two Indians. They concealed themselves in a pine forest until midnight; then, with their fearful
warwhoop they fell upon the defenseless village. A dreadful
scene ensued; the village was burned, forty-seven were killed
and one hundred and twelve carried into captivity. A treaty of
peace was made in 1713, called, from the place in Holland where
it was signed, the peace of Utrecht. For thirty years succeeding




20                 COLONIAL HISTORY OF
the close of Queen Anne's war the colonists enjoyed comparative repose.
In 1774 France again declared hostility to England, and the
colonies prepared to commence the contest known in America as
King George's war.  The principal event of this war in America was the capture of the fortress of Louisburg, on the island
of Cape Breton. This fortress had been constructed by the
French at an expense of five and a half millions of dollars.
In 1748 a treaty of peace was concluded at Aix-la-Chapelle,
in Germany, when it was agreed that all prisoners should be
released and all acquisitions of property or territory were to be
restored. But soon disputes about local boundaries began, and
it was not long before these two nations were involved in another
bloody struggle for dominion in the new world.




THE MIDDLE STATES.                 21
CHAPTER III.
THE MIDDLE STATES.
At the time of the early settlement of America nearly all the
nations of Europe were at war with each other on account of
different religious opinions. To escape persecution the English
Quaker, the French Huguenot, and many from the shores of the
Baltic and the banks of the Danube and Rhine sought refuge on
the banks of the Hudson and Delaware.
Henry Hudson, while exploring the eastern coast of America,
seeking for a north-west passage to India, sailed up the river
which now bears his name. His little ship, called the Half Moon,
was the first European sail ever borne upon its waters.
For fifteen years no regular attempt at settlement was made.
The island of Manhattan, consisting of twenty-two thousand
acres, was purchased in 1624 by the Dutch from the Indians,
for about twenty-four dollars. This island, called New Amsterdam, contained a few Dutch cottages with thatched roofs and
wooden chimneys. It is now the wealthy and populous city of
New York.
The country claimed by the Dutch was called New Netherlands.   To encourage emigration to New Netherlands, the
Dutch West India company offered every man who, in four
years, would plant a colony of fifty souls, a tract of land sixteen miles in length, and as wide as they required, with the
privilege of governing all who settled upon it. Van Swiller was
appointed governor in 1633, and from the beginning had difficulties with the English colonies on the Connecticut river. In 1638
he was succeeded in office by Sir William Kieft, who was a bold
and unprincipled man, and soon involved his colony in serious
troubles. The Indians, excited by the rum which they had
purchased from the Hollanders, committed various trespasses
which Kieft punished severely. An Indian warrior had been
made drunk and robbed, and, on returning to a sense of his
injuries, murdered two of the Dutch. About this time a band
of Indians, driven by the Mohawks, sought shelter with the




22                 COLONIAL HISTORY OF
Hackensacks, on the Hudson, and solicited the protection of the
Dutch. But Kieft could not be satisfied without a flow of blood.
He sent a party of his countrymen across the river in the night,
who fell upon the unsuspecting fugitives, and in the general
massacre, women and children, old and sick, shared the same
cruel fate. The fiery hatred and vengeance of all the surrounding tribes was aroused, and a desperate and bloody war was the
result. It was for a time feared that every Hollander would be
swept from the country.  Roger Williams using his influence in
behalf of peace, hostilities were for a time suspended. But the
war was afterward renewed, and for two years the colony suffered
dreadfully. John Underhill was made captain of their forces.
He successfully beat back and defeated the Indians. The river
Indians were adopted into the Mohawk tribe, and a treaty of
peace was made with the Dutch.
Kieft was succeeded by Peter Stuyvesant, an eminent soldier,
and possessed of every requisite for an efficient governor. He
was kind and just in his treatment to the Indians; settled boundary disputes, granted the colony a more liberal system of trade,
and promoted its interests. But while he was removing all causes
for trouble with his neighbors, there was a power at work within
his own colony which caused him much anxiety and uneasiness.
The people had for a number of years shown an ardent desire
for greater freedom.  Stuyvesant was an aristocrat and opposed
to democracy.  Hle soon found himself at variance with his people. At last, without the approbation of their governor, a general assembly of two deputies from each village was convened
for the purpose of asserting the rights of the people. Taxation
was resisted, and a willingness expressed to bear English rule, if
they might enjoy English liberty.  The change of government
was not long delayed. The whole territory of New Netherlands
had been granted by Charles II. of England, to his brother
James, Duke of York, and the name of New Amsterdam was
changed to New York, in honor of the Duke, and the name of
Albany was given to the settlement on the Hudson, called by the
Dutch Fort Orange.




THE MIDDLE STATES.                 23
The people of New York soon perceived that a change of gov.
ernment did not bring with it the blessings they had hoped. In
the hope of having a representative government they were disappointed, and the taxes to support the government were
increased.
War was declared between England and Holland in 1672.
Holland being successful, New York again passed into the hands
of the Dutch. This state of things, however, lasted but about
fifteen months, when New York was restored to the English, in
whose possession it remained until the time of the revolution.
All the Atlantic coast, now from Maine to Georgia, belonged to
the English.
NEW JERSEY.
In 1623 the territory between the Hudson and the Delaware
was granted to Lords Berkeley and Carteret by the Duke of York.
Carteret's share consisted of the territory included in the state
of New Jersey. Elizabethtown, then consisting of four houses,
became the capital of the province.
At the end of ten years Berkeley sold his province to the
Friends, a large number of whom settled there the next year.
They purchased lands from the Indians, who thus expressed their
kind welcome and desire for peace:  " You are brothers, and we
will live like brothers with you. We will have a broad path for
you and us to walk in. If an Englishman fall asleep in this
path, the Indian shall pass him by and say:  He is an Englishman; he is asleep; let him alone. The path shall be plain;
there shall not be in it a stump to hurt the feet."
East Jersey also fell into the possession of the Friends, being
purchased by William Penn and eleven of his brethren.  They
obtained a charter and appointed Robert Barclay governor for
life. When the Duke of York ascended to the throne, he considered his contracts as duke not binding upon his honor as king.
Through the instrumentality of Andros he endeavored to annul
the American charters. He succeeded in subverting the governments of several, among which were the Jerseys. New Jersey
from this period presents but few items of interest up to the time
the independence of the colonies was declared, in 1776.




24                COLONIAL HISTORY OF
PENNSYLVANIA.
Pennsylvania is the only instance of an American colony
founded without bloodshed. It was intended to be an asylum for
the persecuted English Friends.
William Penn was the only son of an English admiral, who
had won distinction by his conquest of Jamaica, and brilliant
achievements during the war with Holland.  He was born in
1644. While a student at Oxford, and at the age of sixteen, he
became interested in the doctrines of the Quakers, for which he
was expelled from the university. This displeased his father,
who beat him and turned him out of doors, but afterwards forgave him, and sent him to travel on the continent, in the hope
that by intercourse with the world his opinions would be changed.
At the age of twenty-two he was sent by his father to Ireland
on business, and while there became so impressed by the preaching of Thomas Loe, the Quaker minister, that he joined their
society, and became so firm a convert that all'his father's
reproaches, and even a second expulsion from home could not
change his faith. His firmness and gentleness afterward won
for him the admiration and forgiveness of his father.
During the next three years he was three times imprisoned for
his religion and pleading the cause of his brethren.'At one time
a jury was starved two days and nights to compel them to convict him. They insisted on returning a verdict of acquittal, for
which they were fined.
On his release from imprisonment, he, with several others of
his persuasion, embarked for Holland, distributed tracts and
preached to the people. On his return to England he found the
condition of the Friends as suffering as ever, and determined to
found a free and happy home for them in the new world. In
1681 he obtained a tract of land on the western bank of the
Delaware river, in payment of a claim against the government
for sixteen thousand pounds, left him by his father. The king
gave to this territory the name of Pennsylvania, "the woody
land of Penn."
Within the domain granted to Penn were some Swede and
Dutch settlements. These he had no desire to remove. He sent




THE MIDDLE STATES.                 25
them a copy of his grant, and a message informing them that he
had no intention of usurping their rights, but intended they
should be governed by their own laws.
The year before Penn was able to join his colony, he sent out
a number of emigrants with instructions for building a city.
He did not wish it to be a crowded city with the pure air and
light of heaven shut out, but to each house there was to be a
large garden attached, so that it might be a "I faire greene country towne."
In November of the year 1682, Penn, with a hundred settlers,
sailed for the new world in the ship Welcome. During the long
voyage of nine weeks thirty of his companions died of small pox.
He was warmly welcomed on his arrival by the Friends who had
preceded him.  He sailed up the Delaware, on the banks of
which he determined to found his city. The ground was purchased from the Swedes. The city thus commenced was called
Philadelphia, or city of Brotherly Love.
Soon after this Penn made his famous treaty with the Indians.
They met under a large elm tree in what is now called Kensington. This tree was preserved until 1810 when it was blown down
during a severe storm. A monument, which has since been
erected, marks the place where it stood. Here, beside the Delaware, Penn met the chieftains.  The old warriors took their
seats on the ground in the form of a half moon, while the
younger ones arranged themselves behind in a similar form.
Their new governor, who had inspired their confidence by means
of a few presents, occupied the central space before them.  "We
meet," said he, "on the broad pathway of good faith and good
will. I will not call you children, for parents sometimes chide
their children too severely; nor brothers only, for brothers
differ. The friendship between me and you I will not compare
to a chain, for that the rains might rust or the falling tree might
break. We are the same as if one man's body were divided into
two parts. We are one flesh and one blood."
The Indians trusted him and presented him with a belt of
wampum as an emblem of friendship.  " We will live," said they,
"with William Penn and his children so long as the sun and




26                COLONIAL HISTORY OF
moon shall endure." This treaty of peace between the English
Quaker and the red man of the forest was never violated.
While other white settlements suffered severely from Indian wars,
" not a drop of Quaker blood was ever shed by an Indian."
The government of Pennsylvania was republican. An assembly, composed of six members from each county, was organized.
All sects were tolerated. Every freeman could vote and hold
office, who believed in God and abstained from work on the Sabbath. This peaceful colony grew and prospered. In 1683 Philadelphia consisted of four cottages, but in two years the houses
numbered six hundred. It grew more in three years than New
York did in fifty.
DELAWARE.
In 1631 the Dutch planted a feeble settlement near the present
site of Lewiston, but difficulties with the natives had excited
savage vengeance, and they exterminated the Dutch colony.
Gustavus Adolphus, the monarch of Sweden, determined to
plant a colony in America, which should be an asylum for persecuted Christians.  He died before his plans were carried out.
When his daughter, Christiana, succeeded to the throne, the
minister, Oxenstiern, accomplished the noble purpose which her
father had formed. A church and fort were built on the site of
Wilmington. The place was called Christiana, in honor of their
young queen. Their territory was named New Sweden. The
jealousy of the Dutch was aroused, and they resolved to expel
or subdue the Swedes. For a few years Delaware was in the
possession of the Dutch, although the inhabitants were Swedes.




THE SOUTHERN STATES.                27
CHAPTER IV.
THE SOUTHERN STATES.
MARYLAND.
In England, during the reign of King James, the Puritans
were subjected to very severe penalties on account of their religious belief. But, although the king persecuted the Puritans for
non-conformity with the rites and views of the English church,
he, on the other hand, oppressed the Roman Catholics still more
severely; and the Puritans also, as they became more numerous
and increased in influence, raised a fierce outcry against the
Romanists, persecuting them as far as they were able, even while
they were themselves suffering persecution at the hands of King
James and the supporters of the English church. The Roman
Catholics, being thus oppressed on both sides, turned, in their
distress, to America, which was, even at that early day, an asylum for the oppressed.
George Calvert, one of the most influential of the Roman
Catholics, was a leading member of the London company, and
he also held the office of Secretary of State at the time of the
embarkation of the Pilgrims for America. For his services to
his country and sovereign, he was, in 1621, created an Irish peer,
with the title of Lord Baltimore.
In 1628, Lord Baltimore went to Virginia with the view of
establishing a Roman Catholic colony there, but he found the
Virginians hostile to the cause, opposing it as violently as the
king himself. He then went beyond the Potomac, where he
found a beautiful country which was as yet unoccupied. He
went back to England and applied for a charter to establish a
colony there. The charter was granted by Charles I. (who had
ascended the throne in 1625,) after the death of Lord Baltimore,
to his son Cecil, who had inherited his title and property. The
province was called Maryland, in honor of the Catholic queen,
Henrietta Maria.
The first company of emigrants, with Leonard Calvert, brother
of Cecil, as their governor, arrived in March, 1634. They




28                 COLONIAL HISTORY OF
sailed up the Chesapeake and purchased a village of the Indians,
which they named St. Mary. By their honesty in paying for
their land, they secured the friendship of the Indians, and being
well supplied with the necessaries of life, the colony prospered.
Some time previous to the establishment of this colony, William Clayborne had obtained a license from the king to traffic
with the Indians, and he, in company with others, had established trading stations at different points along the Chesapeake.
Clayborne and his followers denied the authority of Lord Baltimore, and collected on the eastern border of Maryland, resolved
to sustain their claims at all hazards. Their obstinacy caused
some trouble, but Baltimore sent a force against them, which,
after a severe skirmish, succeeded in making the insurgents
prisoners. Clayborne's property was confiscated, and he was
sent to England to answer to a charge of treason.
The first legislative assembly in Maryland was held at St.
Mary in 1635. At this time every freeman was entitled to a
voice in the enactment of laws, and it was not until 1639 that
a representative government was established.  At first each
county chose as many representatives as it pleased, while the
proprietor appointed others, but afterwards the counties were
confined to four each, and the city of Annapolis was allowed two.
Although the Indians were at first amicably disposed towards
the Maryland colony, they afterwards became jealous of their
increasing power and began to harass them in many ways.
The whites at last determined to endure their encroachments no
longer, and declared war against them. This war lasted from
1642 to 1645, when peace was again restored. But now disturbances came in another direction. During this same year,
William Clayborne, having been acquitted of the charge of treason in England, returned to Maryland determined on revenge.
He infused a spirit of rebellion into some of the colonists, and
his party became so powerful that the governor was obliged to
flee into Virginia, where he remained a year and a half before
the rebellion was quelled, and he was permitted to resume his
office.




THE SOUTHERN STATES.                 29
The colony went on from this time with but little disturbance
until 1654, when Cromwell became Protector of England. By
this time the Protestants were greater in numbers and influence
than the Romanists in Maryland, and, instigated by Clayborne
they forgot the generosity or Baltimore in allowing them religious freedom, and passed a law withdrawing the protection of the
laws of Maryland from the Catholics.
At this the Catholics raised the standard of rebellion. A civil
war was begun which lasted, with occasional interruptions, until
1691, when an end was put to the disturbances by King William
III. who made Maryland a royal province, thus depriving Lord
Baltimore of his rights as proprietor. Maryland continued to
be a royal province until 1716, when the rights of Lord Baltimore were again recognized, and the colony was restored to an
heir who had embraced the Protestant religion. The original
form of representative government was now again established,
and Maryland grew and prospered under wise governors until
the beginning of the revolutionary war.
VIRGINIA.
In 1584, after an unsuccessful attempt by Sir Humphrey Gilbert, an English nobleman, to explore the coast of America from
St. Johns, Newfoundland, southward, his step-brother, Sir Walter Raleigh, obtained a patent from Queen Elizabeth which
granted to him all lands which he might discover in America,
between the Delaware and Santee rivers. He sent out two men,
named Arthur Barlow and Philip Amidas, to explore the American coast. After taking possession of the country in the name
of Queen Elizabeth, they, in a few weeks, returned to England
with the most animated statements concerning the country.
Upon hearing their glowing descriptions, the queen pronounced
this one of the most illustrious events of her reign, and in remembrance of her unmarried state, she gave to the newly discovered
region the name of Virginia.
Some time after this a strife ensued between England and
France respecting the possession of the new territory, which did
not end until 1604. The English then claimed a tract of country




30                COLONIAL HISTORY OF
extending from Halifax, Nova Scotia, on the north, to Cape
Fear, North Carolina, on the south. A district, extending from
the mouth of the Potomac river to Cape Fear, was granted to
an association of merchants and noblemen, a majority of whom
were residents of London. This association was called the London company.
The first company of emigrants to Virginia under the auspices
of the London company, left England in December, 1606, in
three vessels, commanded by Captain Christopher Newport.
The colonists numbered one hundred and five, but in all that
number there were but "twelve laborers and a few mechanics."
The remainder of them were dissolute and indolent men, not at
all fitted for an undertaking such as that in which they had
embarked.
These men left England with no charter permitting them to
govern themselves, but they were, on the contrary, to be governed by a council of seven from the company in England. In
lesser affairs they were to be ruled by a subordinate council
chosen from their number by the council at home. The colonists were not to know until they reached their destination who
composed this subordinate council, for their names and instructions were placed in a sealed box which they were commanded
not to open until they reached Virginia. Thus, when, on board
the vessels, any disputes arose between the colonists, there was
no one who could check the disturbance and re-establish concord.
Upon arriving at the American coast, the vessels were driven
by a storm into Chesapeake Bay. They gave to the two capes,
at the entrance of the bay, the names of Charles and Henry, in
honor of the sons of King James. They soon entered the James
river, which they named in honor of the king, and about fifty
miles up the river they landed on the 23d of May, 1607, and
commenced the settlement which they called Jamestown.
According to the instructions contained in the sealed box
which the colonists brought to America with them, Edward Maria
Wingfield was their first governor. The colonists began to suffer from want in a few weeks, as some of their provisions had
been spoiled while they were on their way, and the rest had been




THE SOUTHERN STATES.                 31
consumed. They had not planted any grain upon their arrival,.and as the Indian tribes adjoining their settlement showed signs
of hostility, they were in a very deplorable condition. In addition to the famine and hostility of the Indians, the extreme
dampness of the climate, together with the insufferable warmth,
carried away a great many of them, so that at the close of the
summer but one half of their number were living.
At this time they discovered that their governor was living
bountifully on some private stores, and also making preparations
to leave the colony and flee to the West Indies. They immediately deposed him, and chose Ratcliffe as his successor. Ratcliffe, however, proving inefficient, the settlers looked to Captain
John Smith, who was, in reality, the ablest man among them,
but whom they had before treated unkindly on account of -envy.
Smith assumed the reins of government, and soon, by his indomitable energy, restored order in the colony, and compelled
the Indians to supply them with food. The autumn also brought
plentiful supplies of wild game, so that the colony again began
to prosper.
Smith, taking advantage of the prosperous condition of the
colony, started out with a few companions on a tour of exploration. He ascended the Chickahominy river fifty miles, then,leaving the boat, he, with two of his companions plunged into
the forest. They were soon surrounded by a band of Indians;
who slew his companions and made him a captive. They exhibited him in several of their settlements, and then took him
before Powhatan, the chief of their tribe. Here, a council of
warriors condemned him to death. In accordance with this
decision, he was led out to execution, his arms were pinioned
and his head was laid upon the stone. The clubs of the Indians
were raised to strike, when Pocahontas, the loved and only child
of Powhatan, threw herself upon the prisoner and entreated her
father not to slay him. The chief granted her prayer, and, by
this circumstance, the Indians were changed from enemies to
friends, as they believed him to be under the protection of some
powerful Manitou or guardian angel.




32                COLONIAL HISTORY OF
They immediately made a treaty with him, and sent a guard
of twelve men to escort him back to Jamestown in safety.
Upon Smith's return he found every thing in disorder in the
colony. The colonists were an improvident and lazy set of men,
and their number was increased early in 1608. At this time,
Captain Newport, who had returned to England shortly after the
arrival of the first company of immigrants at Jamestown, arrived
with one hundred and twenty men. These men were as idle and
dissolute as those who had preceded them. Soon after their
arrival some glittering particles were discovered in the earth
near Jamestown which were mistaken for gold, and, in spite of
Smith's remonstrances, the colonists bestowed all their labor
upon it, and indulged in dreams of wealth. Smith soon became
disgusted with them, and, with a few men, went on another tour
of exploration. They sailed up the Chesapeake bay and Potomac river in an open boat. They also traveled through the
forests, and made treaties with several Indian tribes. They
traveled three thousand miles in three months, and on their
return Smith constructed a very accurate map of the country.
When Smith returned from his second trip he was made president of the council at Jamestown. He did all in his power to
turn the attention of the settlers from seeking gold to agriculture. He met with success in a degree, but the colonists were
none of them accustomed to such labor, and he found it a hard
task to keep them from idleness. He wrote to the Supreme
Council in England, entreating them to " send but thirty carpenters, husbandmen, gardeners, fishermen, blacksmiths, masons,
and diggers of trees' roots, rather than a thousand" of such as
were then there. They were obliged to depend upon the Indians
for a greater portion of their food.
In June, 1609, the London company obtained a new charter,
giving them more extended advantages. By it, the Supreme
Council in England was furnished with the right to fill any
vacancies which might occur in its own body, and also to choose
a governor for Virginia. This governor was to be vested with
absolute power, having at his disposal the property and even the
lives of the colonists.




THE SOUTHERN STATES.                833
Under the new charter the Supreme Council appointed Lord
Delaware governor of Virginia for life. Not being able to go
immediately to Virginia, he sent Captain Christopher Newport,
Sir George Somers, and Sir Thomas Gates, authorizing them to
govern the colony until his arrival. They left England on the
12th of June, 1609, with nine ships and over five hundred
emigrants.
When they had come near to the coast, the fleet was scattered
by a hurricane, and the vessel which contained the three commissioners was wrecked on the Bermuda islands. The majority
of the emigrants, however, reached Jamestown in safety.
The new settlers were as dissolute and improvident as the
others, and caused Smith considerable trouble. He, however,
ruled the settlement until the close of the year, when, having
met with a severe accident, he was obliged to return to England
for surgical attendance.
As soon as the colonists were freed from the control of Smith,
they returned to their old habits of idleness. Their supply of'food being soon consumed, they were in a deplorable condition,
and as Smith was the only man whom the Indians respected,
they would not supply the settlers any longer. On the contrary,
soon after his departure they began to evince signs of hostility,
and, reading their own fate in the growth and increasing power
of the whites, they formed a plan for exterminating them. This
plan, however, was defeated by Pocahontas, who remained
friendly to the English, and revealed it to them.
In June, 1610, one year from the time of their departure
from England, the commissioners, who had fitted up a vessel on
the island where they were wrecked, arrived at Jamestown.
But, instead of being met and welcomed by a flourishing colony,
as they had expected, they were received by a few starving
creatures; for, of the five hundred left by Smith six months
before, only sixty were now living. They immediately resolved
to leave the town where they had suffered so much, and, had it
not been for the interference of Sir Thomas Gates, they would
have set fire to the settlement. They left the settlement in four
3




34                COLONIAL HISTORY OF
little vessels, and a more wretched or dejected company than
those who floated down the James river on the 17th of June,
1610, could not well be imagined. On the following morning,
when they had nearly reached the mouth of the river, their sorrow was turned into joy on meeting their new governor, Lord
Delaware, who was coming with more immigrants and an abundant supply of provisions. They immediately returned to Jamestown, and that night the air was resonant with songs of praise to
the Giver of all good.
Under the wise administration of Lord Delaware, the colony
prospered, but he was obliged, on account of ill health, to return
to England in March of the following year. Sir Thomas Gates
was then appointed governor of Virginia, and he arrived during
the month of September following, with six ships, three hundred
immigrants, one hundred kine, and an abundant supply of provisions. The settlers greeted him gladly, and under his government the little colony flourished greatly.
Another charter was granted to the London company in 1612.
By it the power of the king over the council and colony was
abrogated, and the Supreme Council in England was also abolished. The whole company, as a body, made laws and elected
officers for the colony. The settlers were contented, although
they had no voice in the government. They acquiesced in all
the measures taken and decisions made by the company, and
there were about a thousand English settlers in Virginia at the
beginning of the year 1613.
Ever since the departure of Smith the Indians had been hostile to the colonists in Virginia. During the fore part of the
year 1613, Pocahontas, who was dearly loved by her father, was
kidnapped by a scouting party from the white settlement and
taken to Jamestown. This party stole her, hoping that Powhatan would pay a large ransom for her release, or at least consent to a treaty of peace; but, on the contrary, he was exasperated, and made immediate preparations for war. This threatened
evil was, however, averted by Pocahontas and a young Englishman by the name of John Rolfe, between whom a mutual attachment had sprung up. Pocahontas was educated in the language




THE SOUTHERN STATES.                 35
and religion of the English, and in April, 1613, she received the
rite of baptism, and was joined in marriage to young Rolfe.
Powhatan gave his consent to this union, and from that time
until his death he was a friend to the English.
The colony now began to prosper, and in 1619 a great many
people came from England and settled in Virginia. In this year
also, the people first held a representative assembly. By the
intercession of George Yeardley, who was then governor, they
were granted a share in the enactment of laws for the colony.
On the 28th of June, in this year, they held the first representative assembly at Jamestown. Virginia was divided into eleven
boroughs, from each of which two representatives were chosen.
These representatives were called burgesses, and the assembly
consisted of them together with the governor and his council.
After two years they obtained from the London company a
written constitution, and at about the same time one hundred
and fifty young women came over "to become wives to the:
planters," so that now the settlers regarded this as their permanent abode, and set to work in earnest.
Powhatan continued to be the friend of the English until his
death, when his brother, Opechancanough, became chief of the
tribes. Opechancanough was hostile to the whites, and in 1622,
soon after he became chief, he set on foot a plot to annihilate
the white settlements. On the first of April, the settlements
farthest from Jamestown, were attacked, and great numbers of
the inhabitants slain. Jamestown and the settlements bordering
upon it, being warned by Chanco, a friendly Indian, were saved,
and those inhabitants of the towns which were attacked, who
were not massacred, fled to Jamestown.  The colony which
numbered eighty settlements was reduced to eight within a few
days.
When the English were collected at Jamestown, they made
preparations for war. This war, which commenced immediately,
lasted, with occasional interruptions, until 1646, when, Opechancanough having died in captivity, the Indians gave up their lands
and left the country.




36                 COLONIAL HISTORY OF
The London company having become very much increased in
numbers and influence, King James I. regarded their growing
power as hostile and injurious to his own, and so he sought to
dissolve the company. In this he succeeded. He took away
their charter and made Virginia, a royal province.  He appointed
George Yeardley governor, and twelve councilors to assist him
in the administration of the government. Both this monarch
and his son Charles I., who succeeded to the throne upon the
death of his father, April 6th, 1625, were very selfish, and ruled
the Virginia colony more for their own benefit than for that of
the settlers.
After Charles I. was beheaded, and during the time that Oliver Cromwell ruled England as Protector, the Virginia planters
were allowed to govern themselves, and the colony prospered
remarkably, but at the death of Cromwell, in 1658, his son, to
whom he had left the government, not having the ability to rule
as his father had done, soon resigned his office, and the next year
after that, the line of Stuart kings was continued in the person
of Charles II, the son of Charles I. At his accession a powerful aristocracy arose in Virginia, formed by the rich planters.
This party, who were more numerous than the republicans,
attempted to deprive them of any part in the government. In
addition to this, King Charles II. made very tyrannical and
rigorous laws regarding their commercial transactions. These
laws required them to ship all goods to and from England in
English vessels; they also forbade them to trade with any European power except England, and their traffic among themselves
was either excessively taxed or altogether forbidden.
In the year 1675, the Susquehannah Indians, a tribe of southern Pennsylvania, invaded their northern border, and committed
many fearful ravages. Upon the refusal of Governor Berkeley
to give the people arms with which to protect themselves, they
resolved to arm themselves without his authority, and at the
earnest solicitation of his countrymen, Nathaniel Bacon, a young
republican, placed himself at their head. He was, at first, declared a traitor by the governor, but, as he was supported by a
body of five hundred resolute patriots, Berkeley was compelled




THE SOUTHERN STATES.                 37
to listen to the popular demand, and allow him a commission.
The republican assembly immediately confirmed this action of
the governor, and gave Bacon command over a thousand men.
Bacon advanced against the Indians without delay, but he had
no sooner left Jamestown than Governor Berkeley again declared
him guilty of treason, and with an army equal to that of Bacon
took possession of the settlement. When Bacon heard of this
action, he marched against Berkeley and compelled him to evacuate Jamestown. He marched into the town, confiscated the
property of Berkeley's followers, and proclaimed himself governor. Soon afterward, however, he heard of the arrival of a
large body of troops which had been sent from England to suppress the insurrection, and, as he was not able to hold the town
against the united forces, he set it on fire. The whole town,
with the exception of the old church tower, was destroyed.
Jamestown was burned on the evening of September 30th,
1676, and Bacon marched to the York river, where he conceived
a plan to expel the governor's forces from the colony; but before
it was carried into execution, he died from the effects of a disease contracted in the swamps about Jamestown. There being.
no one of sufficient ability to lead his party after his death, they
were soon overpowered, and many of them were executed.
Berkeley ruled the colony tyrannically for a year, when he was
recalled, and another governor was sent from England.
During the rest of the reign of Charles II. and that of his
brother James II., the Virginians were very much oppressed by
the tyranny of governors appointed over them, but from the
revolution of 1688, which deposed James II., and enthroned
William and Mary, to the beginning of the French and Indian
war, the whole colony of Virginia thrived remarkably.
THE FRENCH AND INDIAN WAR.
Almost at the commencement of the 18th century, the French
began to intrude upon the territory of the English. They
already possessed Louisiana and Canada, and continued to form
settlements west of Pennsylvania and Virginia. The English
endured their encroachments, until, in 1753, the French devised




88                COLONIAL HISTORY OF
a scheme for constructing a line of forts from Canada to Louisiana, passing through the English colonies of Pennsylvania and
Virginia. Upon this the governor of Virginia sent a letter of
remonstrance to the commander of the French. George Washington, who was then but twenty-one years of age, was chosen
as the messenger. There was much danger connected with the
mission, and the route was an exceedingly difficult one, but a
better man to undertake it, than Washington, notwithstanding
his youth, could not have been chosen.
On the 31st of October, 1758, Washington, accompanied by
three or four attendants, started upon his perilous mission.
After enduring many hardships and privations, he, at last,
reached the headquarters of the French commander. He delivered his message, and after four days received a written reply.
He then returned to Virginia, where he arrived after an absence
of eleven weeks.
The answer of the French commander had been a refusal to
relinquish the claim of the French to the territory where they
had settled; so the English made immediate preparations for war.
Upon attempting to build a fort at the point where the Ohio,
Alleghany, and Monongahela rivers meet, they were driven away
by a party of French soldiers, who finished the fort, and gave
it the name of Du Quesne.
In May, 1754, Washington surprised an advanced party of
the French at the Great Meadows, and gained a complete victory. The French commander was slain, and only fifteen of the
fifty under his command escaped. On account of a lack of men,
however, the English were obliged to withdraw their forces, so
that the French again occupied the Ohio valley.
In February, 1755, General Edward Braddock was sent from
England to take command of the provincial troops. He was
entirely unaccustomed to Indian warfare, and drilled his army
according to European tactics, notwithstanding Washington,
who had consented to attend him as aid-de-camp, repeatedly
attempted to advise him to act differently. He haughtily refused




THE SOUTHERN STATES.                39
to act upon the advice of Washington, believing that a lack of
bravery on the part of the colonists was the only cause of their
defeats.
After a long delay, Braddock commenced his march. When
near Fort Du Quesne, on the 9th of July, they were surprised
by a quick discharge of bullets and arrows from the adjoining
thickets. The English army was thrown into confusion, and, not
knowing where to fire, expended their ammunition by firing into
the air. General Braddock, after having three horses shot under
him, was mortally wounded. Washington, although fired at many
times, was not touched, so that the Indians regarded him with a
superstitious dread.
At the time of the expedition of Braddock against Fort Du
Quesne, two others were sent out. One of them was against
Niagara and Kingston, under Governor Shirley, and the other
against Crown Point, under General William Johnson, both of
which, though not as calamitous as that of Braddock, failed to
accomplish the end in view.
This war continued, each side alternately gaining advantages,
until 1760, when the French were subdued. Articles of peace,
however, were not signed until February 10th, 1763.
THE CAROLINAS.
Numerous attempts were made during the sixteenth century
to establish settlements in the region called, by the English,
South Virginia; the first of which was by the Huguenots, or
French Protestants, who had fled from persecution in their own
land. They gave to the country the name of Carolina, in honor
of the King of France, Charles IX., which name it still retains.
This attempt at settlement proved unsuccessful, as did also those
made by several expeditions afterwards fitted out by Sir Walter
Raleigh, and sent from England. The first permanent settlements in that region were formed by dissatisfied and adventurous
colonists from the other American settlements and Barbadoes.
In the year 1663 Charles II., King of England, granted this
territory to eight noblemen, and the same country which, in




40                COLONIAL HISTORY OF
1562, was named Carolina, in honor of the French king, now,
one hundred years afterward, received the same name in honor
of the King of England.
The Barbadoes planters came to Carolina in 1665, and established a colony with Sir John Yeamans as governor. In honor
of Lord Clarendon, Prime Minister of England, and one of the
proprietors, this colony was called the Clarendon County Colony.
This colony was established in the northern part of Carolina,
and soon became known entirely as North Carolina.
In January, 1670, three vessels bearing emigrants, under the
command of Joseph West and William Sayle, were sent out
from England by the proprietors, for the purpose of establishing
another colony. After settling in two or three places, which
they afterwards abandoned, they finally founded a settlement
on the site of the present city of Charleston, in the year 1682.
As soon as permanent settlements had been founded in the
Carolinas, the proprietors conceived the plan of drawing up a
grand constitution for this country, which they confidently hoped
would far outstrip any government in Europe. They appointed
Lord Ashley Cooper, Earl of Shaftesbury, one of the proprietors, and John Locke, one of the most distinguished philosophers
of that time, to frame the instrument. It was finished in March,
1669, and was highly commended in Europe, but when taken to
Carolina and tested, it was found to be exceedingly unpractical.
The people would not receive it, but preferred laws of their own
making. After a long endeavor to render the grand scheme
practical in its workings, the proprietors gave up the attempt
and permitted the people to rule in their own way. Representative government was first established in 1672, in the southern
part of Carolina.  This was called, in honor of Sir George
Carteret, one of the proprietors, the Carteret County Colony,
but it soon after received the name of South Carolina.
For a period of five or six years, beginning with the year
1680, great numbers of immigrants came and settled in the
Carolinas, comprising the persecuted, as well as the adventurous
from England, Scotland, and Ireland, the Huguenots from France,




THE SOUTHERN STATES.                 41
and many of the Dutch from New York. The colonists were
industrious, and in both North and South Carolina many soon
became wealthy.  The contest between the proprietors and
people lasted for twenty years, but the first legislative assembly
was convened in 1688. After that, during the remainder of the
seventeenth century, both the Carolinas prospered remarkably.
At the beginning of the seventeenth century, on account of a
war existing between England and Spain, the Spanish colony at
St. Augustine, Florida, disturbed the Carolina settlements.  The
neighboring tribes of Indians also at times showed signs of
hostility, but the colonists held both their Spanish and Indian
foes in check, and were not long disturbed by them. In the year
1715, a powerful Indian confederacy was formed against the
whites. This confederacy numbered about six thousand men,
and, headed by the Yamassees and Tuscaroras, and instigated
by the Spaniards, they made many fearful ravages in the Carolinas. Energetic and wise measures were immediately taken by
Governor Craven; the colonies were placed under martial law,
the white inhabitants and slaves were armed, and a strong force
went out against the Indians, who were soon overpowered, and
fled, part of the tribes to the south, and part to the north.
The people of the Carolinas were heavily taxed by the proprietors, who also refused to aid them against their enemies, and
in 1719 the people of South Carolina called a convention and
sent a petition to the king to make South Carolina a royal province. The petition was granted, the colony was purchased by
the king, who appointed a governor, and allowed the people to
choose their own representatives. Ten years later North Carolina was also sold to the king.
By this arrangement, the people of neither colony derived
much benefit. The royal governors appointed over them were
generally weak, selfish, and tyrannical, as they had proved in
Virginia, Maryland and other colonies, and from this time until
the beginning of the Revolutionary War, North and South Carolina, in common with other American colonies under royal rule,
were involved in contentions with their governors concerning
their rights and privileges.




42                COLONIAL HISTORY OF
GEORGIA.
At the time that the Carolinas became royal provinces, the
whole country between the Savannah and Altamaha rivers was
uninhabited except by Indian tribes.  At this time also, the
cruel laws against debtors were in full force in England, and
men of all classes who were unable to pay their debts were
thrown into prison.
Moved with pity for these unfortunate men, a band of philanthropists, at the head of whom was General James Edward
Oglethorpe, conceived the plan of establishing on the free soil
of America an asylum for those who were oppressed on account
of their poverty, and persecuted for their religious belief. This
plan was approved by Parliament, and sanctioned by the king,
and all who were in prison for debt were released on condition
that they would accompany the expedition.  A charter was
granted to Oglethorpe and his associates, "in trust for the poor,"
in the year 1732, to found a colony in the region between the
Savannah and Altamaha rivers, which was called Georgia, in
honor of King George II.
General Oglethorpe, with the first band of emigrants, numbering one hundred and twenty, sailed from England in November, 1732, and touched at Charleston in the following January.
From there he went to Port Royal, when, after landing the
greater portion of the settlers, he ascended the Savannah river
as far as Yamacraw bluff, where he laid the foundation of the
city of Savannah.
Treaties of peace were immediately made with the Indians of
the country, who appeared friendly, and sold their lands to the
new comers at a price satisfactory to both parties. Many immigrants came from different parts of Europe, on account of the
religious freedom in Georgia. A colony was founded by a pious
sect from Austria, called the Moravians, who had fled from
Roman Catholic persecution in their native country. They gave
the name of Ebenezer to their settlement, and lived happily in
the enjoyment of religious liberty.




THE SOUTHERN STATES.                43
Governor Oglethorpe went back to England, and when he
returned, in 1736, he brought with him about three hundred
new settlers, among whom were one hundred and fifty Scotch
Highlanders, who were well versed in military tactics. These
Highlanders built a town on the Altamaha river, to which they
gave the name of Darien. John Wesley-the founder of the
denomination known as the Methodists-and his brother Charles
also came with Oglethorpe, as missionaries in Georgia and among
the Indians. Their labors were not crowned with very great
success, and they returned to England in 1738. The distinguished preacher, George Whitfield, who was then only twentythree years of age, came to Georgia at that time. He met with
greater success than Wesley had done, and his eloquence was so
great that vast multitudes were attracted to hear him preach
wherever he went. He founded an orphan asylum at Savannah,
which was supported by contributions received by him at various
places in England and America where he preached. During his
lifetime it was of great benefit to the colony, and flourished
under his powerful influence. At his death, however, which
occurred at Newburyport, Massachusetts in 1770, being deprived
of its sole support, it became extinct.
During the year 1739, England being at war with Spain, the
Spanish settlers of St. Augustine made several attacks upon the
Georgian settlements. Governor Oglethorpe had been expecting this, and had established a firm friendship with the neighboring  Indian tribes.  In  1740, having been appointed
commander-in-chief, he went with an army of over two thousand
men, consisting of English soldiers, Scotch Highlanders and
friendly Indians, to attack St. Augustine.  In this attack,
however, he was unsuccessful, on account of sickness among his
troops, caused by the oppressive heat of the climate and impurity of the atmosphere, and he was obliged to return to
Savannah.
After Oglethorpe's departure, the Spaniards determined again
to attack the Georgian settlements. They accordingly fitted
out a fleet of thirty-six vessels, and in 1742 landed above the
town of St. Simon's with three thousand men. Oglethorpe, by




44                THE SOUTHERN STATES.
a stratagem, decoyed them into a swamp where his men lay in
ambush. The Spaniards were surprised and completely routed.
They immediately retreated to their ships, and returned to St.
Augustine.
General Oglethorpe left Georgia in 1743, never again to
return, and went to England. He had been dearly loved by the
colonists, and his departure was greatly lamented.  During
Oglethorpe's stay in Georgia he had firmly prohibited the introduction of slavery in the colony; but soon after his departure,
slaves were brought there and employed on the plantations.
The charter which had been obtained by Oglethorpe and his
colleagues was granted to them for twenty-one years.  The
colony had proved extremely unprofitable to the trustees, and at;
the end of the term of years named in the charter they willingly
gave up the instrument, and Georgia was from that time until
the beginning of the war of independence, a royal province.




CHAPTER V.
CAUSES OF THE REVOLUTION.
An act for taxing the American colonies was passed in the
English parliament March 22d, 1765. Heavy expenses had
been incurred by the English government for the protection of
the colonies during the French and Indian war; and these, it
was claimed, should be repaid by the colonists. The Americans
would have been willing to have contributed their share, if they
had been allowed to send representatives to the English parliament; but as they were not, they maintained that England had
no right to tax them without their consent.
By the provisions of the Stamp Act, a tax was imposed on
all paper used in business transactions. No deed, bond, note,
agreement, receipt, lease or contract was valid, without a stamp
costing from three pence to six pounds. Every newspaper was
also required to be stamped, and for every advertisement they
contained a duty of two shillings was imposed.
When the news of the Stamp Act reached America it caused
great excitement and indignation among the people.
Patrick Henry was the youngest member of the legislature of
Virginia. After waiting in vain for some of the older members
to oppose it, he tore a fly leaf from an old law book, and drew
up five resolutions, declaring that the sole right and power to
levy taxes was vested in the General Assembly, and to vest that
power in any other assembly was to destroy British, as well as
American freedom. He spoke eloquently in favor of his resolutions; " and in the midst of an impassioned harangue, exclaimed," "Caesar had his Brutus, Charles I. his Cromwell, and
George III."-" Treason! treason!" was shouted from  every
part of the house —" may profit by their example. If this be
treason, make the most of it."
The act was to go into operation on the 1st of November, and
the excitement increased as the day approached. In Boston,




46             CAUSES OF THE REVOLUTION.
handbills were posted up, warning those who should use or distribute stamped paper to take care of their lives and property.
The day was ushered in by the tolling of bells; flags were hung
at half mast, and every sign of a funeral solemnity was displayed. In New York, ten boxes of stamps were destroyed by
the people. The business men of both these places resolved to
import nothing from England until the act was repealed. Domestic manufactures were commenced in almost every family.
Homespun clothes were worn by the wealthiest as well as the
middling classes.
In Boston, "a paper was issued, bearing for its device, a
snake, on the head of which were the letters N. E. [New England], while the body was divided into several pieces, marked
with the initials of the other colonies. The motto, join or die,
explained its meaning. In New Hampshire, on the morning of
the eventful day, the bells tolled, and the people assembled as
for a funeral procession. A coffin, bearing the name of Liberty
was borne to a grave on the shoulders of eight persons, to the
sound of minute guns. A funeral oration was pronounced, and
the coffin was lowered into the grave. Suddenly signs of life
appeared. It was raised to the surface, and now bore the inscription, Liberty revived. Enthusiastic shouts from the multitude, and the triumphant sounds of drums and trumpets greeted
the resurrection."
The obnoxious Stamp Act was repealed in March, 1766; but
the parliament still maintained the right to tax the colonies.
Among other harsh measures resorted to by Great Britain
was the Mutiny Act, obliging the colonies to find quarters and
supplies for soldiers that were sent to keep them in order.
These troops were stationed at New York and Boston. The
people were exasperated against the troops, and finally blood
was shed in the streets of Boston.
A rope-maker got into difficulty with a soldier and struck him.
Out of this grew an affray between several soldiers and ropemakers. A few evenings after this, about seven hundred citizens assembled for the purpose of attacking the troops. The




CAUSES OF THE REVOLUTION.              47
soldiers fired upon the citizens, and killed three and dangerously
wounded several others. Then several thousand of the exasperated citizens collected, and a terrible scene of blood would have
occurred, had not the governor assured the people that justice
should be vindicated. Captain Preston and his men were tried
for murder. Through the influence of John Adams and Josiah
Quincy, Preston and all his men were acquitted, except two,
who were found guilty of manslaughter.
Parliament still claimed the right to tax the colonies, and a
duty was laid on glass, lead, tea, etc. In 1770, all the taxes,
excepting the one on tea, were removed.
In 1773, several ships, laden with tea, entered the American
ports, but the people determined not to receive it. In Boston,
a party of men, disguised as Indians, marched to the wharf
where the ships were anchored, and threw three hundred and
forty-two chests of tea into the sea. The same feeling existed
in New York, Philadelphia, and  Charleston.   Ships that
entered these ports were obliged to return to England without
landing their cargoes.
The conduct of Boston produced a powerful sensation in the
British Parliament, and harsh measures were now adopted
toward this offending town. Parliament, by enactments, ordered
the port of Boston to be closed against all commercial transactions, and the general court, the custom house, and other public
offices should be removed to Salem.
This Act was called the Boston Port Bill.  All the American
colonies sympathized with the Bostonians. The merchants of
Salem offered their port to those of Boston. Rice and money
were sent them by the people of Georgia; five hundred and
twenty-five bushels of wheat were sent from New York; and
sympathizers in London presented one hundred and fifty thousand dollars for the poor of Boston.
In 1774 a Congress, composed of delegates from the thirteen
colonies, met at Philadelphia. It was composed of the wisest
and best men the colonies afforded. Among them were Washington, Patrick Henry and John Adams. Their meeting was




48             CAUSES OF THE REVOLUTION.
opened with prayer by the Rev. Mr. Duche, an Episcopalian
clergyman. Mr. Adams says, "he prayed fervently and in
language sublime and beautiful, for Congress, for the province
of Massachusetts Bay, and especially the town of Boston."
This Congress, which was convened the 5th of September,
remained in session until the 26th of October, when they adjourned to meet again the 10th of May, 1775. But before the
second Congress assembled the people had armed themselves to
protect their rights and establish their freedom.




CHAPTER VI.
THE WAR OF INDEPENDENCE.
1775.
This war, generally known as the Revolutionary War, commenced with the skirmishes of Lexington and Concord, April
19th, 1775. Feeling that war was inevitable, hundreds of brave
men armed themselves. Their leaders were Greene, Stark, Putnam, and others who had learned war in the contests with the
French and Indians.
On the night of the 10th of May, an expedition from Connecticut, commanded by Colonel Ethan Allen, reached Ticonderoga,
a strongly fortified place on Lake Champlain. Just as day was
breaking on the morning of the 11th, they marched upon the
fortress. The sentinel, too much frightened to give the alarm,
retreated, and the Americans captured the fortress without striking a blow. Allen entered the commander's quarters, and awaking
him, ordered him to surrender instantly. Seeing resistance was
useless, he obeyed, and the fort, with its muskets, guns and
ammunition, fell into the hands of the Americans.
Crown Point was also taken a short time after Ticonderoga.
June 17th, 1775, the battle of Bunker's Hill was fought.
The Americans fought with great bravery and drove the British
back as long as their ammunition held out, when they were
obliged to give up their fort. Many were lost on both sides.
Among those who were lost on the American side was Mr.
Warren, whose death was deeply felt by his countrymen. The
colonists were encouraged by the result of this battle, and the
enemy was convinced that the Americans were not so feeble as
they imagined.
In the midst of these excitements the second Continental Congress convened at Philadelphia, and George Washington was
4




50             THE WAR OF INDEPENDENCE.
appointed comrmander-in-chief of the army. He refused all pay,
except enough to defray his expenses. The army numbered
fourteen thousand, and there were but nine cartridges to each
soldier.
December 31st, 1775, General Arnold and General Montgomery attacked the city of Quebec from different quarters.
Montgomery was shot; the British surrounded them and the
division was forced to surrender. Arnold commanded the troops
that effected a retreat, and entrenched himself on the opposite
side of the river, a few miles below the town. With the unfortunate attack on Quebec the first year of the war closed.
1776.
A heavy cannonade was opened upon Boston from the American batteries, on the 2d of March. General Howe, who had
succeeded General Gage, being alarmed for the safety of the city,
resolved to evacuate it, which he did on the 17th of March, and
embarked for Halifax.
On the 20th, Washington, at the head of his troops, marched
into the city with drums beating and banners waving, greeted
on every side with demonstrations of joy by the people. But
they were shocked when they beheld the ruined condition of
their beautiful town. Old South Church had been converted
into a riding school; Faneuil Hall had been used for a theatre;
wood had become so scarce that the pews of churches, the counters of stores, and even valuable libraries, had been used for fuel.
As soon as Washington had placed Boston in a state of security, he repaired to New York. Before attempting New York,
Parker and Clinton were sent by the British to attack Charleston. General Lee and Colonel Moultrie had erected a fort on
Sullivan's Island; the engagement commenced on the 28th of
June. The British were repulsed, and sailed for New York.
The slaughter of the British was frightful; the number of killed
and wounded amounted to two hundred and twenty-five; of the
Americans, only two were killed, and twenty-two wounded.
About this time, the people recommended Congress to declare
the colonies absolved from allegiance to the crown, and Richard




THE WAR OF INDEPENDENCE.               51
Henry Lee, Benjamin Franklin, Roger Sherman and Robert
Livingston, were appointed a committee to draw up a Declaration of Independence. Thomas Jefferson, the youngest member
of the committee, was chosen chairman, and to him was assigned
the task of preparing the important document.  After being
discussed several days, and slightly amended, it was adopted by
Congress at two o'clock on the 4th of July, 1776. This act of
Congress did much to animate the hearts and support the people
during the disastrous military campaign that followed.
In July the British fleet left Halifax, and entering New York
harbor, the troops landed on Staten Island, where in a few days,
they were joined by Parker and Clinton from the south.
In August, the British and Hessians landed on Long Island
and attacked the American division posted at Brooklyn. The
Americans were defeated, and during the night effected a retreat
to New York, carrying with them every thing but their heavy
cannon.  Leaving the city in the hands of the British, the
Americans continued their march to Harlem, where a skirmish
occurred in which they were partially victorious. They then
retreated to White Plains, where they encountered the British
and were defeated.
Washington now made preparation for the defense of Philadelphia.  He had been pursued by the enemy, under Lord
Cornwallis, as far as the Delaware, but they were unable to cross.
it for want of boats, and awaited the freezing of the river. Congress had departed, and there were many loyalists in the town;:
this led them to think the city could be easily taken. Cornwallis returned to headquarters at New York, and his troops;
were scattered in small divisions through New Jersey.
Washington determined to attack a body of Hessians stationed
at Trenton.  Christmas night was chosen for his enterprise.
Knowing that they would pass the day in sports and drinking,
he resolved to take advantage of their condition. The surprise
was complete. Colonel Rahl, while trying to rally his panicstricken soldiers, fell mortally wounded, and the Hessians surrendered to the Americans.




52             THE WAR OF INDEPENDENCE.
1777.
The first battle of this year was fought at Princeton.
On new year's day Washington was at Trenton. Cornwallis
arrived about sunset and attempted to cross the river, but was
repulsed, and awaited the approach of day. The British army
being fresh and strong, the Americans feared the result of the
next day's encounter, and determined to leave their post during
the night and attack the British at Princeton.  Their camp
fires were left burning to deceive the enemy on the opposite
side of the river.  At Princeton the British were surprised and
defeated. Cornwallis, on awaking at Trenton, -found the American camp fires still burning, but not a soldier, tent or cannon
was to be seen.  Hie made a hasty march to Princeton, but did
not arrive in time to prevent the victory Washington had gained.
On the 11th of September the British crossed the Brandywine, attacked and defeated the Americans, who retreated to
Chester, and then to Philadelphia, hoping to save that city; but
in this they were disappointed, and on the 26th of September it
passed into the hands of the British.
Hearing that the enemy's force at Germantown was somewhat
weakened, an attack upon it was planned.  They succeeded at
first in driving the British from their post, and for a time victory
seemed secure; but some of the divisions failed to move to the
attack as ordered, and the Americans were obliged to retreat
with a considerable loss.
A British army under General Carleton, consisting of seven
thousand men, was stationed in Canada. Carleton was succeeded
in command by Burgoyne, who took possession of Fort Edward,
and, being greatly in want of military stores, dispatched Colonel
Baum, with a large force, to seize some that the Americans had
deposited at Bennington. The approach of Burgoyne on the
western frontier had caused a large force to be collected in New
Hampshire, under the command of Major Stark.  This detachment reached Bennington just in time to encounter Colonel
Baum's force. In the severe battle that was fought the Americans were victorious. Baum, seven hundred prisoners and large
quantities of arms and ammunition were captured.




THE WAR OF INDEPENDENCE.               53
The battle of Stillwater, fought on the 19th of September,
in which the Americans were victorious, was one of the severest
battles of the war.
The next encounter took place on the 7th of October, in
which the British lost more than four hundred men, and the
Americans were again victorious.  The situation of Burgoyne
was now desperate. The British held a council of war, in which
it was agreed that a surrender of Burgoyne and his troops
should be made to General Gates, and on the 17th of October
the ceremony of surrender took place.
1778.
After the surrender of Burgoyne, a treaty was made between
the Americans and the French, on February 6th, 1778, by which
the latter nation recognized the independence of the former,
and decided to help her fight for it.
A French fleet being expected in the Delaware, the British
general determined to evacuate Philadelphia and proceed to
New York. His movements being discovered by Washington,
he sent a division of his army, under General Lee, to pursue
them and give them battle.  He overtook them at Monmouth
Court-house, but, being alarmed at the sudden attack of the
British, ordered a retreat. But Washington arrived just as the
retreat commenced; he reprimanded Lee, and inspired the
soldiers with courage and led them against the foe. During the
night Clinton retreated towards New York, and the Americans
were masters of the field.
1779.
The British, wearied of their unsuccessful attempts to conquer the New England and Middle States, now turned their
attention to the south, where they knew the American forces
were weakest. Here they met with better success. Their first
conquest was Savannah; then followed Sunbury and Augusta.
In fact, at the beginning of 1779 nearly all Georgia was in
their possession. The royal governor was restored, and a royal
province once more existed in the colonies.  These victories




54             THE WAR OF INDEPENDENCE.
encouraged the British, who now demanded the surrender of
Charleston. Governor Rutledge and General Lincoln animated
the people and soldiers to great exertions for the defense of the
city, and the enemy retreated without attacking the place.
Active operations in the south were suspended until the autumn
of this year.
But in the north the ravages of war were carried on. Portsmouth and Norfolk, in Virginia, Norfolk, Fairfield, New Haven
and other villages on Long Island Sound, were burned. The
next important victory was the capture of Stony Point. The
Americans entered the fort by means of the countersign, which
they obtained from a negro who was in the habit of selling fruit
in the garrison. After a short resistance, Colonel Johnson and
his garrison surrendered prisoners of war. The following report
was sent to the commander-in-chief:
"The fort and garrison, with Colonel Johnson, are ours; our
officers and men behaved like men who are determined to be
free."
The Americans were unable to retain Stony Point, as the
British sent large reinforcements up the river.  They, however,
removed the cannon and military stores and destroyed the fort.
The Americans, aided by Count D'Estaing, attacked the city
of Savannah, but they were unsuccessful, and the close of the
year found Georgia still under a royal governor.
1780.
In May, of 1780, the city of Charleston passed into the
hands of the British. After the surrender of General Lincoln,
he was succeeded by General Gates, who advanced through the
Carolinas and encountered the British at Camden, where a battle
was fought and the Americans again defeated with great loss.
The British, elated by their success, now pushed towards the
north, hoping to drive the enemy from Carolina. They advanced
as far as Charlotte, when, hearing that Major'Ferguson had been
killed, and his eleven hundred troops made prisoners, Cornwallis
returned and took up his quarters at Winnsboro, South Carolina.




THE WAR OF INDEPENDENCE.               55
Although Charleston and Camden were in possession of the
British, the Americans were cheered by the brilliant exploits of
Marion, Sumpter and Lee. Marion so many times and in such
rapid succession cut off detachments of Cornwallis' army, that
Tarleton gave him the name of Swamp Fox.
Benedict Arnold was a bold soldier, but a bad and unprincipled man. He had married a tory lady, and lived in such an
extravagant style as to awaken the suspicions of the Pennsylvania Legislature. A court-martial was appointed to try him.
He was convicted of procuring public money by fraudulent
means, and sentenced to be reprimanded by the commander-inchief. This duty was performed by Washington with the utmost
delicacy, but Arnold felt the disgrace, and, his bad passions
being fully aroused, he agreed to place West Point in the hands
of the British for fifty thousand dollars and a brigadier's commission in their army. Communications between the two armies
were carried on through Adjutant General Major Andre. Andre
was arrested and suffered death as a spy. Arnold escaped in
safety to the British lines.
Another year now drew to a close, and England had expended
vast treasures and much blood in endeavoring to subjugate the
colonies, without success.
1781.
The first battle in the campaign of this year was fought at
Cowpens. Victory was decided in favor of the Americans, and
the British were obliged to retreat, leaving behind them three
hundred killed or wounded, and over five hundred of their troops
prisoners.
General Greene gave battle to the British on the 15th of
March, at Guilford Court-house. After an engagement lasting
two hours, the Americans were obliged to retreat, but the enemy
had suffered too much to pursue them. Numerous encounters
between the two armies took place during the summer. Greene
was defeated at Camden, but other Generals had at the close of
the season succeeded in driving the British into the south-east




56.            THE WAR OF INDEPENDENCE.
corner of the state. In the battle of Eutaw springs in September, the Americans were victorious. The British now abandoned
all their posts, and retreated to Charleston. The last battle of
the Revolution occurred at Yorktown.  The allied armies,French and American-after compelling the British to abandon
their outworks, commenced a siege on the 28th of September.
On the 9th of October they opened a heavy cannonade on the
British works; red hot balls were hurled among the English
shipping, causing several vessels to be burned. Cornwallis, perceiving that all would be lost unless he could escape, attempted
to cross York river, but a sudden storm arose and dispersed the
boats, and they were compelled to put back, and the project was
abandoned. Hope now failed, and Cornwallis, on the 19th of
October, surrendered the posts at Yorktown and Gloucester, and
almost seven thousand soldiers and his shipping and seamen, to
General Washington and De Grasse. The terms of surrender
were the same as those the British had required of General
Lincoln at Charleston.
Negotiations for peace were commenced in the spring of 1782.
Before the close of the year the Southern cities were given up,
but New York remained in the hands of the British until fall of
the following year. The treaty of peace was signed September
3d, 1783, by commissioners who met at Paris. On the eighth
anniversary of the first battle of the Revolution, a cessation of
hostilities was proclaimed, and on the 3d of November following,
the army was disbanded. During the Revolution many naval
battles were also fought. The most important occurred off the
coast of England in 1779. During the course of the war the
Americans captured eight hundred and three vessels, with merchandise, amounting to about eleven millions of dollars.
The darkest period of American history succeeded the Revolution. A debt of forty millions of dollars had been contracted,
and Congress had no means of paying it. The articles of confederation formed a sufficient constitution of government during
the war, but were not adapted to the public wants of an independent sovereignty.




THE WAR OF INDEPENDENCE.                57
In May, of the year 1787, a convention assembled at the
state house in Philadelphia. All the states were represented
except Rhode Island. George Washington was chosen to preside, and, after long deliberation, the articles of confederation
were cast aside, and the national constitution, under which we now
live, was formed. After it had been signed by each member of
the convention, it was submitted to Congress, September 28th,
and that body sent copies of it to the several legislatures, that
it might be approved of by the people of each individual state.
Eleven of the states ratified it within a year, and it was adopted
the 4th of March, 1789.
George Washington, by the unanimous voice of the people,
became their first president, and John Adams was chosen vice
president.




CHAPTER VII.
THE ADMINISTRATIONS.
WASHINGTON S ADMINISTRATION-1789-1797.
On the 14th of April, Washington received an official announcement of his election as president of the United States,
under the new constitution. The ceremony of inauguration took
place at New York on the 13th of April. The oath of office
was administered by Chancellor Livingston.
At this time the condition of the country was a very trying
one.  The Spanish authorities had prohibited the Americans
from navigating the Mississippi; our ships in the Mediterranean
sea were attacked by pirates of the Barbary states, and many
an American citizen was condemned to slavery or an Algerine
dungeon; and no treaty of commerce had been made with England, nor had they sent a minister to our country. And in addition to these, the French endeavored to solicit the Americans to
aid them in their revolution.
Three executive departments were created. Mr. Jefferson
was secretary of state; Mr. Hamilton of the treasury, and General Knox secretary of war. These officers comprised the president's cabinet. The first difficulty to be encountered was the
payment of the public debt.
In 1791, on the recommendation of Hamilton, a United States
bank and national mint was established at Philadelphia.
Vermont was claimed by New York and New Hampshire until
1791, when it became independent, and was admitted into the
Union, the first addition to the thirteen original states.
Great opposition was made to the mode of raising money by
taxation. In western Pennsylvania it met with so much resistance that Congress was obliged to send troops to put down the
rebellion.




THE ADMINISTRATIONS.                59
The hostility of the Indians on the frontier was a constant
source of trouble. Three armies were, at different times, sent to
subdue them. A treaty of peace was made after the war had
continued five years, and our western country was left unmolested by Indian hostility for many years.
In 1795, negotiations were entered into with the Barbary
powers, which protected our commerce, and by a treaty with
Spain, the same year, its claims upon our western territory were
abandoned, and the navigation of the Mississippi was thrown
open to us. The year 1795 witnessed the treaties with England,
Spain, Algiers, and the Indians.
In 1797, Washington's second term of office closed, and he
refused to be re-elected.
ADAMS' ADMINISTRATION-1797-1801.
John Adams was the second president, and Thomas Jefferson
vice president. Adams adopted the national cabinet council, left
by Washington, as his own.
The recent treaty with England very nearly brought on a
war between France and America. The government of France
refused to receive the American embassadors. Preparations for
war were made, and General Washington was summoned to take
command of the armies. Hostilities commenced, and a vessel of
each nation was captured, but the army was not summoned to the
field. Three envoys were appointed to proceed to France and
negotiate for peace, but Napoleon Bonaparte had overthrown
the government, and had the control of affairs in his own hands.
He promptly received the United States embassadors, and entered into a treaty with their nation. On the return of the
ministers the United States army was disbanded.
Washington died at his home, in Mount Vernon, on the 14th
of December, 1799, in the sixty-eighth year of his age. The
national grief was sincere; the spirit of party was hushed, and
the nation mourned at the grave of the man who was " first in
war, first in peace, and first in the hearts of his countrymen."




60                THE ADMINISTRATIONS.
During the summer of 1800, the seat of government was removed from Philadelphia. Thomas Jefferson was inaugurated
in the capitol at Washington.
JEFFERSON'S ADMINISTRATION-1801-1809.
Mr. Jefferson was inaugurated March 4th, 1801. The oath
of office was administered by Chief Justice Marshall.
In 1803, Louisiana having been ceded to France, our government purchased it of Napoleon Bonaparte for fifteen millions of
dollars. Out of it two territories were formed, called the territory of New Orleans and the district of Louisiana.
The treaty with Algiers, in 1795, had provided that the United States should pay a sum of money annually for the protection of her commerce in the Mediterranean Sea, but the insolence
of the piratical powers became so unendurable that the government determined to cease paying tribute to them. The Bashaw
then declared war, and our little navy, under Commodore Preble, was sent to the Mediterranean to humble the pirates. He
succeeded in bringing the Emperor of Morocco to terms, and
appeared before Tripoli with his squadron. One of his vessels —
the Philadelphia-grounded in the harbor of Tripoli; she was
captured and her crew made slaves.
In February, of 1804, after the capture of the Philadelphia,
Lieutenant Decatur boarded her, killed the guard, set her on
fire, and escaped without losing a man.
Through the aid of the brother of the governor of Tripoli,
peace was secured the following year. For ten years longer,
however, our commerce suffered in the Mediterranean from the
pirates. In 1815, the final treaty of peace was made, the Barbary powers compelled to pay for the injury they had done, and
to give up all claim to tribute from the United States.
The whole of Jefferson's second term was one of anxiety and
trial. In 1805, and the two following years, the American commerce suffered much from British aggressions. The United
States had maintained a strict neutrality in the wars that were
convulsing Europe, but the belligerents, in their anxiety to do




THE ADMINISTRATIONS.                  61
each other damage, adopted measures destructive to American
commerce.  The British and French governments issued orders
forbidding the ships of neutrals to enter the ports of their respective enemies, and the American commerce dwindled to a domestic coast trade.
MADISON'S ADMINISTRATION-1809-1817.
Jefferson was succeeded, March 4th, 1809, by James Madison.
The difficulties with Great Britain first engaged his attention.
Hopes of more friendly relations between France and England
were entertained, but they proved false.
During the year 1811, the Shawnee Indians, through the
agency of the British, threatened hostility against the western
settlements.  General Harrison was sent against them, and defeated them in the battle of Tippecanoe, in the north-west part
of Indiana.  This act of hostility, on the part of Great Britain,
together with aggressions on the commerce of the United States,
led Congress, on the 18th of June, 1812, to declare war with
Great Britain.
General Dearborn was appointed commander-in-chief of the
American forces.  The first event of this war was disastrous to
the Americans.  General Hull was ordered to invade Canada,
but was obliged to retreat to Detroit, which place he surrendered to the British without attempting to defend it. In the
following year Commodore Perry repaired this loss. On the 10th
of September he defeated and captured the British fleet on
Lake Erie.  This victory gave them command of the lake, and
enabled them to recover Detroit. During the battle at Detroit,
the fierce Indian chief, Tecumseh, was killed. Early in this
year Toronto was captured by the Americans. On the 3d of
July, 1814, Fort Erie was captured. On the 4th, the British
were defeated at the battle of Chippewa, and on the 25th the
Americans were again victorious at Lundy's Lane. These victories drove the British from the Niagara frontier.
The American navy consisted of twenty ships, that of the
English one thousand and sixty.  In August, 1812, the Constitution captured the British Guerriere, and on the 29th of




62                THE ADMINISTRATIONS.
December, of the same year, compelled the frigate Java to surrender.  Commodore Decatur, commanding the United States,
captured the Macedonian.
The ravages of war were felt along the Atlantic coast during
the year 1813. Several towns were plundered and burned;
large numbers of negroes were seized and sold in the West Indies,
and General Ross entered Washington city and burned the capitol and president's house, and very nearly succeeded in making
the president and his cabinet prisoners. The battle of New
Orleans, in which the Americans were victorious, closed the war.
Commissioners met in Belgium, and a treaty of peace was
made, the terms of which were satisfactory to both parties.
MONROE S ADMINISTRATION-1817-1825.
On the 4th of March, 1817, James Monroe was inaugurated
at Congress Hall. During the first year of Monroe's administration a portion of the Mississippi territory was admitted into
the union as a state.
About this time a difficulty arose with the Seminole Indians,
outlaws from the Creek nation, and negroes who had fled from
their masters. Massacres became so frequent that the inhabitants were obliged to flee from their homes for security. General
Jackson marched into Florida and soon defeated and dispersed
them.
In 1818, the Indians ceded to the government of the United
States all their lands west of the Tennessee river, in the states
of Kentucky and Tennessee. Alabama was admitted into the
union as a state, and the territory of Arkansas separated from
Missouri territory. During the year 1819, the Floridas were
ceded to the United States by Spain, and became a territory in
1821, and General Jackson was appointed governor. Maine
was admitted in March, 1820, and Missouri in August, 1821.
During the remainder of Monroe's administration, little of
general importance occurred, aside from the rapid progress of
the country. In the autumn of 1824, four candidates for the
presidency, representing the different sections of the union, were




THE ADMINISTRATIONS.                63
nominated. The choice being devolved upon the house of representatives, John Quincy Adams was chosen president.
ADAMS' ADMINISTRATION -1825-1829.
John Q. Adams became President March 4th, 1825. He
renewed a proposition which Monroe had made, to purchase the
land the Indians held east of the Mississippi.  Some of the
tribes were unwilling to do this; but in February all the territory in Georgia, except a thousand acres, was ceded to the
United States.
Internal improvement and domestic manufactures were the
principal subjects that engrossed the president's attention.
During Adams' administration more than five millions of dollars
had been distributed among the surviving revolutionary soldiers,
the national debt had been greatly diminished, and five millions
of dollars were in the treasury.
JACKSON'S ADMINISTRATION -1829-1837.
During this administration two Indian wars occurred. In
1832, Black Hawk, a powerful chief of the Sac Indians, together
with the Fox and Winnebago tribes, waged war on the Illinois
frontier. General Atkinson was sent against them, and, after
a few skirmishes, Black Hawk was captured and taken to Washington, and the Indians were driven beyond the Mississippi.
Towards the close of 1835 another Indian war, of a more
serious nature, arose. The Seminole Indians, led on by their
principal chief, Osceola, commenced a distressing warfare on the
frontier settlements of Florida. This war lasted seven years.
On one occasion Major Dode was surrounded by Indians, and
his command, consisting of one hundred men, were cruelly massacred; four escaped alive, but afterwards died of their wounds.
A treaty of peace was not concluded until Osceola died in prison,
at Fort Moultrie, in 1842.
Jackson was possessed of strong passions, an iron will and an
uncorrupt heart.' He entered upon the duties of his office,




64                THE ADMINISTRATIONS.
determined to guide the ship of state according to his conception of the constitution. The people were divided into two distinct classes. By one he was thoroughly loved, and by the
other intensely hated. His energetic administration gave general satisfaction, and he was re-elected.  He vetoed a bill passed
by Congress to renew the charter of the United States bank, in
1836. In 1833, he went so far as to direct the secretary of the
treasury to withdraw the government funds, and deposit them
in certain state banks. The secretary refused to do this, and
was dismissed from office. In October, 1833, the act was accomplished. Intense excitement prevailed throughout the country;
numerous failures followed; the president was censured by a
resolution of the senate, but, being supported by the house of
representatives, he persevered, and finally triumphed.  The state
banks enlarged their operations, and commercial prosperity
revived.
Arkansas was admitted into the Union in June, 1836, and
Michigan, in January following.
VAN BUREN S ADMINISTRATION-1837-1841.
Van Buren was inaugurated March 4th, 1837. The great
apparent prosperity during the last year of Jackson's administration, was succeeded by a revulsion in monetary affairs. The
mercantile failures in New York alone, amounted to more than
a hundred millions of dollars. In New Orleans failures to the.
amount of twenty-seven millions occurred within two days.
In 1837, a portion of the Canadas rose in rebellion against the
British, and determined to secure their independence. Individuals and companies from the United States joined these rebels.
This displeased Great Britain, and it became necessary for the
president to issue a proclamation preventing further aggressive
movements. About this time the dispute concerning the boundary between the state of Maine and the British possessions was
renewed, and the peaceful relations between Great Britain and
the United States were endangered. General Scott was sent to
the frontier, and harmony between the two countries was restored.




THE ADMINISTRATIONS.                65
HARRISON S AND TYLER'S ADMINISTRATION-1841-1845.
William Henry Harrison, who succeeded Yan Buren, was
inaugurated March 4th, 1841. His cabinet counselors were
wisely chosen.  Daniel Webster was appointed secretary of
state. The only official act of importance performed by Harrison, was the issuing of a proclamation calling an extra session
of congress to legislate upon important matters connected with
the revenue and finances of the country. He died the 4th of
April, just one month after his inauguration.
On the 6th of April the oath of office was administered to
John Tyler. The extra session of congress, called by president
Harrison, occupied itself with the financial interests of the country. A general bankrupt law was enacted, which freed those
who had failed from their obligations, and enabled them to recommence business. The sub-treasury act was repealed. The
chief object sought to be obtained during this session was the
establishment of a national bank. Two bills providing for such
an institution passed both houses, but were vetoed by the president, who was severely censured by the party who had elected
him. His cabinet all resigned, except Mr. Webster, who retained his seat on account of public interests which would have
suffered by his withdrawal at this time.
The second year of Mr. Tyler's administration was signalized
by the return of the United States exploring expedition. This
expedition had been sent, four years before, by the United
States navy to explore the southern ocean. It was commanded
by Charles Wilkes.  He made many important discoveries;
among which was the Antarctic continent, along which he coasted
for a distance of seventeen hundred miles.
During this administration, difficulties in Rhode Island originated in attempts to abandon the old charter granted by Charles
II., under which the government had been administered one
hundred and eighty years, and adopt a state constitution of government. The disputes which arose concerning the manner in
which their government should be altered, assumed a serious
aspect. The state was on the verge of civil war, and national
5




66                THE ADMINISTRATIONS.
troops were sent to restore quiet and order. A free constitution was framed, and went into operation in May, 1843.
Florida was admitted into the union in 1845, and Iowa in 1846.
Towards the close of Tyler's administration the country was
much agitated concerning the admission of the republic of Texas
as a state of the union. By the north it was strongly opposed,
because it would increase the political strength of slavery, and
lead to a war with Mexico.
POLK'S ADMINISTRATION-1845-1849.
James K. Polk entered the presidential mansion, as its occupant, March 4th, 1845. May 29th, 1844, the news of his nomination was transmitted from Baltimore to Washington by the
m7agnetic telegraph, "'being the first dispatch ever so communicated. "
On the 4th of July, 1845, Texas became one of the United
States. Its admission into the union, as had been predicted,
caused a war between Mexico and the United States. Although
the independence of the state of Texas had been acknowledged
by the United States, England and France, a portion of its territory was claimed by Mexico. American vessels were plundered
in the Gulf of Mexico, and the property of American merchants
confiscated to the amount of six millions of dollars.  These
aggressions continued, and the president ordered General Zachary
Taylor, with his troops, to the Rio Grande. The boundary
between Texas and Mexico was still unsettled. The territory
between the Rio Grande and the Nueces was claimed by both
parties.
While war was gathering in the south-west, difficulties arose
between the governments of the United States and Great Britain,
concerning the boundary between the two countries on the northwest, which was finally settled by a treaty of peace in June,
1846, the boundary being fixed at forty-nine degrees north
latitude.
Hostilities commenced on the part of the Mexicans on the
26th of April, 1846, when a reconnoitering party, under Captain Thornton, was killed or captured by the Mexicans.




THE ADMINISTRATIONS.                67
Taylor's army, consisting of fifteen hundred men, was called
"the Army of Occupation."  On the 8th of May, as he was
advancing to Fort Brown, he encountered six thousand Mexicans, under General Arista. In the severe conflict which ensued,
the Mexicans were defeated, with a loss of nearly five hundred
in killed and wounded. The Americans lost fifty-three. The
next day a shorter, but bloodier battle occurred between the
same armies at Resaca de la Palma. The Mexicans were again
defeated, with a loss of one thousand, while the Americans lost
but one hundred and ten. Congress declared that war had
begun, and Taylor was ordered to invade Mexico, advancing
from Matamoras towards Monterey. His first division was commanded by General Worth. They encountered and defeated
two armies, raised to oppose them, one at Monterey, on the 24th
of September, under General Ampudia, and another at Buena
Vista, February 23d, under Santa Anna.
Santa Anna approached Buena Vista with twenty thousand
men, and ordered General Taylor, with his five thousand troops,
to surrender, which he politely refused to do, and made ready
for an encounter he felt would be the most trying in which he
had yet engaged. The Mexicans commenced the battle at sunrise on the 23d. This bloody conflict lasted until night, when
the Mexicans withdrew, leaving their dead and wounded behind
them. The Mexicans lost two thousand, and the Americans two
hundred and sixty-seven.
On the 29th of March, 1847, General Scott compelled the city
of Vera Cruz and the castle of San Juan d' Ulloa to surrender.
He defeated the enemy in the great battle of Cerro Gordo, and
entering the valley of Mexico, he won the victories of Contreras,
Churubusco, Molino del Rey, Chapultepec, and on the 14th of
September, entered the capital in triumph, and planted the
American flag on the national palace.
In August of 1846, General Kearney, commander of the
army of the west, had taken possession of New Mexico, and
started for California to aid Colonel Fremont and Commodores
Sloat and Stockton, in the conquest of that country.




68                THE ADMINISTRATIONS.
The Americans being every where victorious, the Mexican
congress sued for peace. On the 2d of February, 1848, a treaty
of peace was signed at Guadalupe Hidalgo. Including this peace,
Mexico ceded to the United States New Mexico and California,
for the sum of fifteen millions of dollars.
Wisconsin was admitted into the union in May, 1848.
General Taylor's brilliant victories in Mexico rendered him
so popular that he was nominated for president of the United
States.  He was elected by a large majority, with Millard Fill-,more as vice president.
TAYLOR'S AND FILLMORE'S ADMINISTRATION-1849-1853.
The 4th of March occurring on Sunday, the oath of office was
administered on the 5th. The first object which claimed the
attention of the new president was California.  After the discovery of gold, its population increased so rapidly, that in 1849
the people took measures for its admission into the union. A
constitution was adopted which prohibited slavery. Intense excitement existed throughout the whole country. Part of the
state was south of the dividing line established by the Missouri
compromise, and senators from the south declared the prohibition of slavery there would cause a dissolution of the union.
In the midst of this excitement the senate was deprived of one
of its most effective orators, by the death of John C. Calhoun.
He died at Washington, on the 31st of March, 1850.  On the
9th of July following, the country, a second time, suffered bereavement, in the loss of its chief magistrate. The disease,
which terminated his life, was similar to the cholera. He was
succeeded by Vice President Fillmore. The former cabinet resigned, and Daniel Webster was appointed secretary of state.
The first important measure adopted by Mr. Fillmore was the
Compromise act. After the requirements of the act had been
thoroughly discussed in congress, Mr. Fillmore gladly affixed his
signature to the bill, and California was admitted into the union
as a free state.
During this administration the territory of Washington was
formed out of the northern part of Oregon.




THE ADMINISTRATIONS.                 69
PIERCE S ADMINISTRATION-1853-1857.
Franklin Pierce, the fourteenth president of the United States,
was inaugurated March 4th, 1853.
The most exciting question that arose during Pierce's term
related to the organization of a vast region in the interior of the
continent into two territories, to be called respectively Nebraska
and Kansas. The slavery agitation was revived again in all its
strength. The bill for organizing these territorial governments
passed both houses, and after receiving the signature of the
president, became a law.' The question of slavery or frieedom
was left to its occupants to decide, when they should seek admission into the union as states.
BUCHANAN S ADMINISTRATION —18$57-1861.
March 4th, 1857, Franklin Pierce was succeeded by James
Buchanan, the democratic candidate.  The two great political
parties, into which the people were divided, were the whigs and
democrats.  But after the Missouri compromise was repealed a
new party was formed, styled republican. It was composed
chiefly of those who had formerly belonged to the whig party.
The republicans were opposed to the extension of slavery into
free territory; and yet maintained that Congress had no right
to interfere with it in the slave states. The country was violently
agitated by the slavery question throughout Buchanan's term.
The excitement reached its highest pitch in October, 1859, when
John Brown, with fifteen white and five colored men, seized the
arsenal at Harper's Ferry, with the view of establishing the
freedom of the slaves by force of arms. Federal troops were
sent to suppress the insurrection. Thirteen of the invaders were
killed. Brown and the remainder were captured, tried, convicted of treason, and were executed December 2d, under the
laws of Virginia. The southern leaders attempted to implicate
the people of the north in this mad enterprise, and the bitterness of feeling existing between them was greatly increased.
During the close of Buchanan's administration, preparations
were made for the rebellion which soon followed. Cobb, Thompson, and Floyd, members of his cabinet, took an active part in




70                THE ADMINISTRATIONS.
the secession of the slave states. Floyd, the secretary of war,
sent United States arms and munitions of war to the southern
states.
LINCOLN'S ADMINISTRATION.
On the 4th of March, 1861, Chief Justice Taney administered the oath of office to Abraham Lincoln, the president elect
of the United States. The leaders of the democratic party in
the south claimed that Mr. Lincoln was the representative of the
so-called " abolitionists," who now expected, through him, to
abolish the institution of slavery from the United States. They,
therefore, made his election a pretext for attempting to dissolve
the union, and establish a southern confederacy with slavery as
its corner stone.
At the time agreed upon, the politicians in the several states
met in convention, and, without consulting the people, passed
the ordinance of secession from the United States.  South Carolina took the lead on the 20th of December, 1860, in a convention at Charleston, and her action was imitated by the following
states, in order, namely: Mississippi, Florida, Alabama, Georgia, Louisiana, Texas, Virginia, Arkansas, North Carolina and
Tennessee. On the 4th of February a convention assembled at
Montgomery, Alabama, and established a "' southern confederacy," with the title of Confederate States of America.  Jefferson Davis, of Mississippi, was chosen president, and Alexander
H. Stephens, of Georgia, vice president of the "confederacy."
The conspirators immediately raised an army to sustain their
revolt, and seized all forts, arsenals, ships, arms, and other government property which they could lay hold of.
It had been the intention of the conspirators from the first to
take possession of Forts Sumter and Moultrie, in Charleston
harbor, especially Sumter, as it was the stronger. (See view
No. 3133.) Major Robert Anderson, who was stationed at that
point, suspected their design, and removed his garrison from
Fort Moultrie to Sumter. At this, the rebels were enraged,
and immediately determined to bombard the fort. They cut off
all communication between the garrison and its friends, and




THE ADMINISTRATIONS.                 71
demanded the surrender of the fort to the authorities of the state.
On the refusal of Anderson to surrender, General P. G. T.
Beauregard, who had raised a large army, prepared to seize the
fort. On the 12th of April, 1861, the fort was assaulted, and
its interior fired. Anderson held out as long as he was able,
but his supplies having become exhausted, "he evacuated the
fort on the 14th, carrying with him the garrison flag."
It was while the preparations for the attack upon Fort Sumter were going on that president Lincoln was inaugurated. He
declared his intention to execute the laws of the country and
protect the property of its citizens. As soon as tidings of the
assault upon Sumter reached Washington, the president issued
a call for seventy-five thousand men, to serve for three months
in quelling the rebellion, and in less than twenty days nearly two
hundred thousand had volunteered, and about forty millions of
dollars had been subscribed by the loyal people of the north for
the purpose of carrying on the war. Then a contest was begun,
which, "in numbers engaged, territorial extent of operations,
and destructive engines used," is unparalleled in the history of
the world.




CHAPTER VIII.
THE CIVIL WAR.
1861.
The condition of the national army at the commencement of
the war was extremely unfavorable. It consisted of only sixteen
thousand men, the greater part of whom were on the western
border, holding the Indians in check, and at least one-half of
the entire land force of the United States was surrendered by
General Twiggs to the "authorities of Texas," one of the revolted states.  The naval force consisted of but ninety vessels,
bearing twenty-four hundred guns and but seven thousand men.
These, however, at the beginning of the war were all in foreign
waters, with the exception of one steamship bearing twenty-five
guns, and a small relief ship of two guns. John B. Floyd, the
former secretary of war, had caused most of the arms to be
taken from the forts in the northern states to those in the slave
states. From this, it will be seen, that almost every instrument
which might have been employed for the protection of the government, had been put away from its control by the conspirators.
From the beginning, the conspirators had determined to gain
possession of the capital, and it was now-in great danger of
being seiz-ed. As a movement preparatory to the seizure of
Washington, the navy yard at Gosport, and the arsenal and
armory at Harper's Ferry were attacked by the insurgents.
Not being able to hold them, the commander of the national
forces set fire to them, and evacuated Harper's Ferry on the
18th, and Gosport on the 21st of April. On the 19th of the
same month, the sixth Massachusetts regiment passed through
Baltimore on its way to Washington, and was attacked by a mob
of ten thousand men. Two of its number were killed, and
one mortally wounded. This was the first blood shed in the




THE CIVIL WAR.                   73
great conflict. A monument to the memory of the two who fell
as the first victims of the rebellion, was erected in Lowell, Massachusetts. (See view No. 6617.)
On account of the entensive preparations which the conspirators had made, and the increasing strength of the conspiracy,
the president issued a call for over sixty-four thousand additional troops for the army and eighteen thousand for the navy
" to serve during the war."
Baltimore was seized by a detachment from the United States
forces under General Benjamin F. Butler, and troops after that
passed through the city without molestation. The city of Washington was occupied by a large body of national troops under
General Winfield Scott, and no more trouble was anticipated
from the rebels in that quarter. Up to the time that congress
assembled, July 4th, there had been, besides the three months
troops, two hundred and thirty thousand men enlisted, and on
the 10th congress appropriated five hundred millions of dollars
for defraying the expenses of the war, and authorized the president to call for five hundred thousand more men. On the 20th
of the same month, the seat of the confederate government was
removed from Montgomery to Richmond, Virginia.
On the 24th of May occurred the first entrance by loyal troops
into a rebellious state. Alexandria and Arlington Heights, in
Virginia, were seized by United States forces. The first commander who entered Alexandria was Colonel E. E. Ellsworth,
at the head of his gallant New York Fire Zouaves. He was shot
on the same day by the proprietor of the " Marshall House,"
in that city. (See views No. 2294 and No. 2295.)
The seat of war was soon extended as far west as Missouri,
but that state was rescued from the hands of the conspirators
by the energetic Captain Nathaniel Lyon, aided by his troops
and the loyal citizens.  The first battle after the declaration of
war by the United States government, was fought on the 3d of
June at Philippi, Barbour county, Virginia. A body of national forces, commanded by Colonel B. F. Kelley, assaulted and
defeated a detachment of seventeen hundred confederate soldiers.
General Butler, who was in command at Fortress Monroe,




74                   THE CIVIL WAR.
learned that batteries had been planted on the creek at Big
Bethel by Colonel Magruder, a confederate officer, and he, on
the night of the 10th, sent Brigadier General Pierce, with two
columns from Fortress Monroe and Newport News, to seize
them. The two detachments, when they met, fired upon each
other, each supposing the other to be a hostile force. In this
disaster, the first officer of the regular army who fell a victim
to the rebellion, was killed. This was Lieutenant John T. Greble,
an artillery officer.
The next day Colonel Lewis Wallace, with his Indiana Zouaves, scattered a force of five hundred rebel troops at Romney,
Hampshire county, Virginia, and drove the confederate force,
which was stationed at Harper's Ferry, to Winchester. At
about this time a considerable force, commanded by General
George B. McClellan, entered West Virginia from the Ohio.
A detachment from this army, under Colonel W. S. Rosecrans,
defeated a body of three thousand confederate troops at Rich
Mountain, on the 11th of July.
At the time these military operations were being carried on,
the loyal people of Western Virginia were excited over the ordinance of secession which had lately been passed at Richmond.
They refused their consent to that action, and representatives
from thirty-nine counties assembled in convention at Wheeling,
on the 11th of June.  On the 17th they declared their independence of the government of the state of Virginia, and on
the 20th the commonwealth of West Virginia was established,
with Frank H. Pierpont as Governor.
In July, a movement was set on foot for the capture of Richmond, the confederate capital, and on the 18th of this month,
General Irwin McDowell, with about fifty thousand men, comprising the army around Washington, advanced from Fairfax
Court-house, Virginia, for the purpose of attacking the confederates at Manassas Junction. It had been the design, if successful
at Manassas, to advance against Richmond, and take possession
of that city. The same day on which they left Fairfax Courthouse, they came upon a body of confederate troops at Blackburn's Ford, near Centreville, where a sharp skirmish occurred.




THE CIVIL WAR.                    75
No advantage was gained by either side, and at Bull Run, on
the 21st, the contest was renewed. (See views No. 2328 and
2329.)  At this time a very severe battle was fought.  The rebel
forces were under the command of Beauregard and other able
generals. At first the federal forces were triumphant; but just
as the confederates were about to retreat, General Joseph E.
Johnston arrived with reinforcements. The confederates were
then rallied, and the federal forces were completely routed, and
fled toward Washington. The national loss at this battle was
over three thousand men. On the 22d, General McClellan
was invested with the command of the forces in the vicinity of
Washington, called " The Army of the Potomac;" and on the
31st, General Scott having resigned his position on account of
his failing health, General McClellan received the appointment
of general-in-chief of the armies of the union.
During the time that these military movements were in progress
in Virginia, the war was progressing in the west. A severe
contest occurred near Carthage, in Missouri, on the 5th of July.
The union forces were led by Colonel Franz Sigel, and the rebels
by the governor of Missouri, C. F. Jackson.  Although the
forces under Jackson far outnumbered those of Sigel, the latter
conducted his retreat so ably that not one union soldier fell into
the hands of the enemy; and, as the confederate loss was almost
four times that of the national, it was, substantially, a union
victory.  On the 2d of August, an indecisive fight took place at
Day Spring, between the nationals, under General Lyon, and
the confederates, under General Ben McCulloch, which was
renewed on the 10th at Wilson's Creek, near Springfield. McCulloch's force in this battle was about twenty-two thousand
strong, while that of Lyon, with the exception of a small
column under Sigel, consisted of only five thousand. General
Lyon was killed at nine o'clock in the morning. The victory,
which was very indecisive, was claimed by the rebels, although
their loss was more than double that of the federals.
During the summer of 1861 a large navy had been created,
and in the latter part of August an expedition was fitted out at
Fortress Monroe against Forts Hatteras and Clark, at the




76                   THE CIVIL WAR.
entrance of Pamlico Sound. This expedition, the military force
of which was under General Butler, and the naval under Commodore Stringham, proved remarkably successful.  A great
many prisoners were taken, besides several vessels, heavy cannon,
and one thousand stand of small arms.
When the conspirators received tidings of the action of the
people of West Virginia, they resolved to compel them to submit to secession. Accordingly, three bodies of troops were sent
against them, commanded respectively by Colonel Robert E.
Lee, ex-Governor Henry A. Wise, and John B. Floyd, the
former secretary of war. The latter was met at Carnifex Ferry,
in West Virginia, by a federal force under General Rosecrans,
and, in a severe engagement of three days' duration, the rebels
were defeated. At about this time, also, the union troops at
Lexington, in Missouri, under Colonel James A. Mulligan, were
attacked by a confederate force under General Sterling Price.
The rebels gained possession of the town and held it until the
16th of October, when it was recaptured by a body of federal
cavalry led by Major Frank J. White.
On the 31st of October, a body of national troops, under
General Charles P. Stone, was defeated at Ball's Bluff, in Virginia, by a vastly superior confederate force under General
Evans, and on the 7th of November, one week later, another
victory was gained by the rebels at Belmont, Missouri.  Their
forces, under the command of General Cheatham, were attacked
by General Ulysses S. Grant, at the head of a body of union
troops, and they were at first compelled to abandon their position, but, having received re-enforcements from Columbus, Kentucky, they rallied and drove the federal troops to their boats.
On the same day, however, Forts Beauregard and Walker,
guarding the Port Royal entrance, on the coast of South Carolina, were captured by a union naval force under Rear-Admiral
Samuel F. Dupont.  "This was a very important victory, for
it led to the permanent occupation, by government troops, of the
Sea Islands along the South Carolina coasts, between Charleston
and Savannah, so famous for the production of fine cotton."'




THE CIVIL WAR.                   77
This was the last important movement during this year, but the
hostile feeling which existed at the time of the bombardment of
Fort Sumter was now as strong as ever, and both armies made
extensive preparations for a vigorous campaign the coming season.
1862.
Hostilities were commenced this year by another joint military
and naval expedition from Fortress Monroe, under the command
of General Ambrose E. Burnside and Commodore L. M. Goldsborough. The expedition set out from Hampton Roads on the
11th of January, and proceeded southward as far as Hatteras
Inlet, whence it turned and went back to Roanoke Island, in
Albemarle Sound, which it took, after a sharp contest, on the
8th of February, together with over three thousand stand of
arms, and a large number of prisoners.
While this expedition was in progress, on the 19th of January a severe battle was fought at Mill Spring, in the eastern
part of Kentucky, between union forces, commanded by General
George H. Thomas and General Schoepf, and confederates under Generals George B. Crittenden and F. R. Zollicoffer. In
this battle the federal troops gained a decisive victory.  The
rebel General Zollicbffer was shot by Colonel S. S. Fry, of the
4th Kentucky regiment.
Soon after this battle several other important victories were
successively won by the national forces. The first of these was
the capture of Fort Henry, on the Tennessee river, on the 6th
of February, by land troops, under General Grant, and a naval
force commanded by Commodore Andrew H. Foote. Grant,
then, with about fifteen thousand of his troops advanced to Fort
Donelson, on the Cumberland river, which was held by a large
garrison under the command of Generals John B. Floyd, Simon
B. Buckner, and Gideon J. Pillow. Being here joined by other
troops, which increased his force to about forty thousand strong,
Grant laid siege to the fort. After sustaining the siege for three
days, General Buckner, on the 16th of February, surrendered
the fort, together with over thirteen thousand men and valuable
spoils. Generals Floyd and Pillow deserted Buckner when they




78                  THE CIVIL WAR.
saw that the fort must be surrendered; but the latter, more
honorable than they, remained, and suffered himself to be made
a prisoner with his soldiers.
On the 5th of March, a battle was commenced at Pea Ridge,
in western Arkansas, between federal troops under Generals
Samuel R. Curtis, Franz Sigel, and Jeff. C. Davis, and confederates under Generals Earl Van Dorn, Sterling Price, and Ben
McCulloch, in which, after a three days' contest, the union forces
were victorious. The noted Texan, General Ben McCulloch,
was killed in this battle. On the day this battle closed, " a new
kind of vessel, called a'ram,' and named Virginia (late Merrimac), produced great havoc and consternation in Hampton
Roads."  This vessel was plated with iron, and had been constructed by the confederates at Norfolk. On the same night,
however, a "floating battery," lately invented by Captain J.
Ericsson, a native of Sweden, made its appearance in Hampton
Roads. Like the lMerrimac, it was constructed chiefly of iron.
It was named the Monitor, and was commanded by Lieutenant
John H. Worden. The next day it went out against the Merrimac, and, after a severe engagement, the " Rebel Apollyon"
was so badly disabled that it retreated to Norfolk, leaving the
little Monitor in command of Hampton Roads.
At the beginning of this year, there were four armies in the
field, viz: The Army of the Potomac, the army at Fortress
Monroe, the army of Western Virginia, and the army in Kentucky. An order had been issued by President Lincoln on the
27th of January, for all the armies to move upon the enemy on
the 22d of February. We have seen that this order had been
obeyed by the armies at Fortress Monroe, and in Kentucky.
The Army of the Potomac, also, under General McClellan,
advanced to Manassas, and the confederate force stationed there,
being less than one-fourth the number of the federal force,
retreated to Richmond; and, as was afterward known, the
national army might have advanced and taken possession of
Richmond without being very strongly resisted; but General
McClellan had formed a plan of advance different from that
originally fixed upon, and on this account the army was delayed




THE CIVIL WAR.                   79
until the 3d of April. On that day, General McClellan, at the
head of the Army of the Potomac, left Fortress Monroe on an
expedition against Richmond.  One month later, May 4th,
Yorktown, which was occupied by a rebel force under General
Magruder, and which McClellan was preparing to besiege, was
evacuated by the garrison stationed there, who fled toward Richmond. The federal troops immediately entered the town, and on
the 5th a force was sent in pursuit of the fugitives. They were
overtaken on the same day at Williamsburg, and in a severe
engagement which ensued, the union troops were victorious.
On the 9th, General John E. Wool, who was then in command
at Fortress Monroe, advanced with a body of troops against
Norfolk. The rebels at that place made no attempt to defend
it, but fled to Richmond, after having utterly destroyed the
famous ram Merrimac, leaving behind them about two hundred
cannon. On the 25th, a force of about four thousand men,
under General Nathaniel P. Banks, was defeated at Winchester,
in the Shenandoah valley, by a confederate force of fifteen
thousand, but made good their retreat. A great part of the
Potomac army crossed the Chickahominy river on the 22d, and
on the 29th captured Hanover Court-house from the rebels.
A severe engagement took place at Fair Oaks on the 31st of
May and 1st of June, between the rebels under General Joseph
E. Johnston, and a portion of the army of the Potomac, under
General Silas Casey. The rebel force was more than double
that of the nationals, but no advantage was gained by either
side, while each sustained a fearful loss. The army of the Potomac changed its position in about three weeks from this time,
which led to a succession of battles during the last week of June,
the most important of which were the battles of Mechanicsville,
June 25th; Gaines' Mill, June 27; Peach Orchard Station, and
Savage's Station, June 29; Glendale,^or White Oak Swamp,
June 30, and Malvern Hill, July 1.
While these movements were in progress in Virginia, the other
branches of the army were not idle. On the 14th of March,
the expedition from Fortress Monroe, known as "Burnside's
expedition," captured Newbern, in North Carolina, and Grant




80                  THE CIVIL WAR.
was following up his victories at Forts Henry and Donelson, by
advancing further into the confederate territory, so that at the
beginning of April, he had ascended the Tennessee river almost
to the southern boundary of the state. On the 6th of the month,
his army was attacked before daylight by a strong rebel force
under General A. Sydney Johnston.  This engagement took
place at Shiloh, near Pittsburgh Landing. The union troops
were scattered, and General Benjamin M. Prentiss, together
with twenty-five hundred men, was taken prisoner. During the
night, however, strong re-enforcements arrived under General
Don Carlos Buell, and, on the morning of the 7th, General
Grant renewed the contest, and, after a very severely fought
battle, gained a complete victory. On the same day, Island No.
10, a strongly fortified island in the Mississippi river, together
with the surrounding batteries on the shore, was surrendered to
Commodore Foote, after a twenty-three days' bombardment.
Four days after this, the national army gained control over
the entrance to Savannah river, by the surrender of Fort Pulaski,
at its mouth, to General David Hunter, and on the same day
Huntsville, in Alabama, was captured by a federal force under
General Ormsby M. Mitchel.  On the 18th, General C. C.
Augur captured Fredericksburg, in Virginia, and on the 28th,
New Orleans, the most important and populous city of the confederacy, next to Baltimore, was taken by a naval force under
Commodores David G. Farragut and David D. Porter, and a
military force under General Butler.
Eight days after the capture of New Orleans, a naval force,
commanded by Colonel Charles Ellet, after a hard fought battle,
overpowered the confederates at Memphis, Tennessee, and the
city was surrendered to the nationals. Colonel Ellet was mortally wounded, but Commodore Davis immediately assumed command, and took possession of the city.
The troops commanded by General John C. Fremont, Nathaniel P. Banks, and Irwin McDowell, were united into one force,
called the Army of Virginia, on the 25th of June, and General
John Pope was invested with the command. This army was




THE CIVIL WAR.                   81
comparatively idle during the greater part of the month of July,
but in the latter part of this month the rebels advanced from
Richmond with the intention of making an attempt to seize
Washington. General Pope, with great difficulty, held them in
check until the 22d of August, when McClellan came to his
assistance. General McClellan was placed in command of all
the forces around Washington on the 1st of September.
On the 14th, a severe engagement occurred at South Mountain, in Maryland, in which each army was commanded by its
General-in-Chief, George B. McClellan, on the national side,
and Robert E. Lee on the side of the confederates. The union
forces won the day, but the heroic General Jesse L. Reno was
among the slain. On the following day, Harper's Ferry, in
Virginia, together with over eleven thousand men, two hundred
wagons, seventy cannon, and thirteen thousand small arms, was
surrendered to the confederates, under General Thomas J.
(" Stonewall ") Jackson. (See views of Harper's Ferry.)
Two days after the surrender of Harper's Ferry, Generals
McClellan and Lee, each with a force of about one hundred
thousand men, met at Antietam Creek, in Maryland, and, in a
severe engagement, lasting from daylight till dark, the union
forces were victorious. The rebels lost about twenty thousand
men. The union General J. K. F. Mansfield was killed, and
Generals I. P. Rodman and Israel B. Richardson were mortally
wounded.  General Lee retreated toward Richmond, but McClellan made no attempt to pursue him, and the army of the
Potomac remained in Maryland until the 27th of October, when
General Burnside, with a portion of it, entered Virginia. The
rest of the army followed on the 31st, led by McClellan, who
was, on the 5th of November, superseded by General Burnside.
In August, Middle Kentucky was ravaged by bands of guerrillas, who were fighting for the confederate cause. The most
famous leader of these depredators was John Morgan, who, at
the head of a large band, committed many ravages. At about
the same time, the state of Kentucky was invaded by rebel troops
led by General E. Kirby Smith, who, on the 29th of August,
6




82                  THE CIVIL WAR.
defeated a federal force of infantry and cavalry, commanded by
Generals Manson and Cruft, near Richmond, in Kentucky, and
then advanced toward Cincinnati.  General Wallace, who was
in command of northern Kentucky, was so well prepared to
receive the rebels when they approached, that they beat a hasty
retreat. A confederate force, under General [Braxton Bragg,
also invaded Kentucky with the intention of seizing the city of
Louisville.  That place, however, was well defended by General
Buell, and the attempt to capture it was given up. On the 8th
of October, Bragg was met and defeated near Perryville, in
Kentucky, by a federal force under the command of Generals
A. D. McCook, Lovell H. Rousseau, and Philip 1II. Sheridan,
and he soon after left the state.
Nothing of importance was done by the army of the Tennessee, after the battle of Shiloh, except the expulsion of the rebels
from Corinth on the 26th of May, by a body of troops under
General Henry W. HIalleck, until October. On the 3d and 4th
of this month, the confederate Generals Van Dorn and Price
carried on an engagement with the force at Corinth. They
compelled the federal force to flee into the town the first day,
but, on the second day, after a severely contested battle, they
were badly worsted, and fled, leaving behind them fourteen flags,
and several stands of arms.
After Burnside had been placed in command of the army of
the Potomac, he advanced toward Fredericksburg, on the Rappahannock. He halted opposite the city on the 17th of November, where the army lay encamped for almost a month. On the
13th of December, a portion of the army, led by Generals Joseph
Hooker, Edwin V. Sumner, and William B. Franklin, attacked
the rebel force at Fredericksburg, but they were defeated with
the loss of about eight thousand men. The army remained inactive from that time until near the end of April, 1863.
During the year 1862, Pensacola, in Florida, had been captured by national forces, and several victories had been won by
the national arms in Texas and on the lower Mississippi. The
last important engagements of the year were an unsuccessful




THE CIVIL WAR.                    83
attempt, by union troops, under General William T. Sherman,
to gain possession of Vicksburg, in Mississippi, on the 27th of
December, and a severely fought battle at Murfrieesboro, in Tennessee, between federal troops under General William S. Rosecrans, and confederates, commanded by General Bragg.  This
battle, which continued from the 29th of December, 1862, until
the 4th of January, 1863, was won by the union troops, but
with the loss of almost twelve thousand men.
While these contests on land and water were going on, the
government at Washington "was devising and executing measures
for the suppression of the great insurrection.  Congress made
ample provisions for money and men; the latter by draft, if not
otherwise obtained. Believing that a heavy blow at slavery had
become a military necessity, it authorized the president to proclaim the emancipation of the slaves. He did not do so immediately; but, by proclamation, September 22d, 1862, he assured
the confederates that, unless they should lay down their arms
within a hundred days, he should issue an edict which would
proclaim the freedom of all bondmen in territory wherein rebellion existed."
1863.
As the confederates did not heed the warning of President
Lincoln, September 22d, 1862, he, on the 1st of January, 1863,
issued the famous Emancipation Proclamation, which proclaimed
liberty to all slaves in those states which were in rebellion against
the government.
The last session of the thirty-seventh congress closed on the
4th of March. " It had placed the entire resources of the country in the hands of the president, and adopted measures for the
increase and efficiency of the army." All the national forces
were ordered to their posts, and, in the early part of May, the
president ordered a draft of three hundred thousand men. This
measure met with considerable opposition; and, in New York
city, on the day when the draft was commenced, a fearful riot
broke out among the laboring classes and rebel sympathizers,
which was not quelled until the end of three days. " The draft




84                   THE CIVIL WAR.
was enforced in twelve states," and " the government, sustained
by every right-minded citizen, went steadily on in its duty."
After the emancipation proclamation had been issued, thousands
of slaves came within the lines of the union army, and, at the
close of the year, sixty thousand colored troops were in the
service of the government.
On the 25th of January, General Burnside was relieved of
the command of the army of the Potomac, and General Hooker
appointed in his place. Near the close of April, General Hooker
crossed the Rappahannock, and, on the 2d, 3d and 4th of May,
he encountered a large rebel force, under General Lee, at
Chancellorsville.  This was a severe contest, in which neither
party gained any advantage.  Both sides sustained a heavy
loss, and among the rebel slain was the famous " Stonewall"
Jackson.
On the 28th of June, HIlooker was superseded by General
George G. Meade.  General Lee had advanced from Virginia,
through Maryland, into Pennsylvania, during the month of
June, and his presence in the latter state produced great terror
among the inhabitants. At length, on the 1st of July, he was
met at Gettysburg, in Adams county, by General Meade. (See
views Nos. 2384,'5,'6 and'7, and 2394,'5 and'6.) The first
engagement, on the morning of the 1st, was commanded, on the
federal side, by General John F. Reynolds, and on the side of
the confederates, by General D. H. Hill.  General Reynolds
was slain (see view No. 2392).  The battle raged, with interruptions, until the evening of the 3d, when the national forces
gained a complete victory. They captured three cannon, fortyone banners, over twenty-eight thousand small arms, and nearly
fourteen thousand prisoners.
The confederates, followed by the army of the Potomac, retreated into Virginia beyond the Rappahannock. Both armies
lay quiet until the 5th of October, when Lee again moved
northward, and destroyed the railroad between the Rapidan river
and Manassas Junction. Several skirmishes took place between
that time and the early part of November, when Meade drove




THE CIVIL WAR.                     85
the rebel force back across the Rappahannock, and there encamped. Nothing more of importance was done by these armies
until the next year.
During the year 1863, the union troops in North Carolina,
under General J. G. Foster, after a series of engagements,
gained possession of a11 of eastern North Carolina north of the
Neuse river.  The Department of the Gulf, also, under General
Banks, with headquarters at New (rleanls, was active during
this year.  In a vigorous raid between New Orleans and Alexandria, on the Red river, Banks captured twenty-two cannon
and two thousand prisoners, besides considerable public property
and several steamboats.  In conmpany with Admiral Farragut,
he captured Port 1H-udson, on the Mississippi, on the 8th of July.
General Banks reports his captures during this campaign to be
over ten thousand men 1"seventy-three guns, six thousand small
arms, beside three gunboats, eight other steamboats, and cotton,
cattle, &c., to an immernse value."  I-e also sent out a successful
expedition to Texas.
Admiral Dupont, on the 7th of April, attempted the capture
of Fort Sumter, but was unsuccessful, because he was not aided
by any land forces.  General Quincy A. Gillmore was sent to
his assistance, and, "' on the 23d of August, after a terrible
bombardment for seven days, Fort Sumter was reduced, it was
reported, to a'shapeless and harmless mass of ruins.'"  (See
views of Fort Sumter.)
After Sherman's unsuccessful attack on Vicksburg, in December, 1862, he went with General John A. McClernand, who,
with the assistance of Admiral Porter, in January, 1863, took
possession of Arkansas Post, on the Arkansas river, together
with " five thousand prisoners, seventeen guns, three thousand
small arms, besides large quantities of munitions and commissary
stores."
General Grant, who was now at the head of the Army of the
Mississippi, began to lay plans for the capture of Vicksburg, a
post considered impregnable by the confederates. After several
unsuccessful attempts to pass around the city, he, on the 14th
of April, crossed the Mississippi and gained two battles near




86                   THE CIVIL WAR.
Port Gibson, south of Vicksburg, whence he advanced to the
rear of the city.  He laid siege to the city on the 19th of May.
At first he had some trouble in retaining his position, for General
Joseph E. Johnston was in his rear with a large force.  He
persevered, however, in the assault upon Vicksburg, and, on
the 4th of July, General John C. Pemberton, the officer in
command, surrendered the city to General Grant, and a force
was sent, under General Sherman, to hold Johnston in check.
General Grant gives, as the result of this campaign,'"the
defeat of the enemy in five battles outside of Vicksburg; the
occupation of Jackson, the capital of the state of Mississippi,
and the capture of Vicksburg and its garrisons and munitions
of war; a loss to the enemy of thirty-seven thousand prisoners,
among whom were fifteen general officers; at least ten thousand
killed and wounded, and among the killed Generals Tracy,
Tilghman and Green, and hundreds, perhaps thousands of stragglers, who can never be collected and reorganized.  Arms and
munitions of war for an army of sixty thousand men have fallen
into our hands; besides a large amount of other public property,
consisting of railroads, locomotives, cars, steamboats, cotton,
&c.; and much was destroyed to prevent our capturing it."
This was the most brilliant and memorable campaign of the
war, and "the heaviest single blow ever given to the muscular
resources of the rebellion."
This victory, coming, as it did, on the day after that of Meade,
at Gettysburg, caused great rejoicing throughout the country.
After his victory at Murfreesboro, Tennessee (January 4),
General Rosecrans remained quiet until the 25th of June. At
that time, however, he again advanced against Bragg, compelling him to retire as far as Chattanooga,. on the Tennessee river,
in the southern part of the state. Rosecrans moved on, took
possession of Chattanooga, and, on the 19th of September, encountered the forces under Bragg, and re-enforcements from
Lee, under General James Longstreet, in the Chickamauga valley.  Rosecrans was compelled to retire to Chattanooga, where
he remained until Grant arrived with additional forces. That




THE CIVIL WAR.                   87
commander, on the 19th of October, left General J. B. McPherson in command at Vicksburg, and went himself to take command
of the army of the Cumberland, at Chattanooga. I-e restored
communication with that place, and, being re-enforced by Sherman in November, he, on the 23d, commenced the memorable
battle of Lookout Mountain and Chattanooga. (See views of
Lookout Mountain). A force under General Hooker gained
possession of Lbokout Mountain, and, on the 25th, the battle
terminated in favor of the national army.  Bragg fled into
Georgia, and Longstreet went to Knoxville, in East Tennessee.
Here, on the 29th, he attacked a union force under General
Burnside, but, Sherman arriving with re-enforcements from
Grant's army, Longstreet fled back tothe army under General
Lee, in Virginia.
During this year, the states of Missouri and Arkansas passed
into the hands of the national force in that department, and, on
the 26th of July, General John Morgan, the noted guerrilla,
surrendered a large force under his command, to General Shackleford, in Morgan county, Ohio. The navy had also been at
work. The rebel ram Atlanta was captured by the WVeehawken,
of Dupont's fleet, under Captain John Rodgers, off the coast of
Georgia, on the 17th of June. Farragut and Porter had also
won several victories on the Mississippi river and its tributaries.
At the close of this year, therefore, the people of the loyal north
had great cause for rejoicing, and the prospects for the speedy
success of the armies of the republic were greater than ever before.
1864.
On the 1st of February, of this year, President Lincoln again
ordered a draft for three hundred thousand men; and, on the
15th of March, he issued a call for two hundred thousand more
volunteers for the army and navy. Preparations were made at
the beginning of the year for another attempt to gain possession
of Richmond.
On the 16th of January, fifteen miles of the track of the Virginia and Tennessee railroad, west of Lynchburg, were destroyed




88                  THE CIVIL WAR.
by a band of Union cavalry from the army of the Potomac,
under General W. W. Averill.
On the 3d of February, General Sherman left Vicksburg on
an invasion eastward. He was gone twenty-four days, and his
expedition was exceedingly successful. An invading force, under
General Truman Seymour, left Port Royal, in South Carolina,
on the 5th, and succeeded in making its way to Olustee, where,
on the 20th, it was defeated by a large confederate force, and
was compelled to fall back to Jacksonville.  On the 13th of
March, General A. J. Smith, from the army at Vicksburg,
together with the fleet of Admiral Porter, captured Fort De
Russey, on the Red river.  Then, in conjunction with General
Banks, they gained two victories-one at Cane river, on the
26th of March, and one at Pleasant Hill on the 9th of April.
At this time, General Steele, in command at Arkansas, in
endeavoring to join the Red river expedition, was attacked, and
lost two hundred wagons and two thousand men. On the 24th
of March, the rebel cavalry leader, General N. B. Forrest, captured Union City, in Tennessee, and on the 25th he plundered
Paducah, in Kentucky.  On the 12th of April he took possession of Fort Pillow, in western Tennessee, on the Mississippi
river, where he instituted a general massacre upon colored troops
stationed there.
The armies of the east and west made preparations for a great
campaign at the beginning of the year. The army of the Potomac, under General Meade, and the three armies of the west,
united under General Sherman, were all eager to meet the foe.
On account of his valuable services to the government, General
Grant, on the 9th of March, received a commission as Lieutenant-General, and was appointed General-in-Chief of the national
forces. He took command of the army of the Potomac, with
his headquarters in the field, and, on the 3d of May, sent an
order to General Sherman to advance against the rebels in Georgia, while he, with the Potomac army, should move upon Richmond. He crossed the Rapidan and encountered the army of
Lee in the " Wilderness," near Chancellorsville, on the 5th of




THE CIVIL WAR.                   89
May. The number of men engaged in this battle is estimated
at two hundred and fifty thousand men. After a severe contest
of three days, the confederate army retreated toward Richmond.
Grant followed Lee so closely that, in the early part of June,
the latter was close upon the outskirts of that city. A force
from Fortress Monroe, under General Butler, fortified itself on
the Appomattox river, and kept back Beauregard, who was
coming up from the Carolinas to the assistance of Lee. Grant
soon gained a position near Petersburg, and Lee went south of
the Appomattox for the purpose of defendin  Petersburg.
Grant commenced a siege immediately, and destroyed the railway connections between Lee's position and Richmond at the
close of July, so that the safety of both the army and city were
imperiled. He gained several victories over Lee's army during
the months of July and August. On the 18th of August, he
seized the Weldon railway, the principal line of communication
between Lee and the southern part of the confederacy. Several
attempts were made by the rebels to recapture it, but in vain.
Grant, after having demolished it for a distance of twelve miles,
intrenched himself near by, and kept the army of Lee in continual terror. (See views of Atlanta, Georgia.)
After receiving Grant's order to march, Sherman, with his
vast army, left Chattanooga, and moved toward Atlanta, in
Georgia. He fought three heavy battles near there with the
confederate force, under General John B. Hood (who had superseded Johnson), and utterly defeated them each time. In the
second battle, July 22d, General McPherson was killed.  Sherman sent out detachments of cavalry to cut off the railway communications with the city, and closely besieged it until the 2d of
September, when Hood abandoned the place, and Sherman
entered in triumph.
While these operations were in progress in the United States,
a powerful rebel privateer, called the Alabama, under the command of Captain Raphael Semmes, was producing great havoc
among American merchantmen in foreign waters. She carefully
avoided all vessels sent against her by the government, until
finally, on the 15th of June, the French government ordered.




.90                  THE CIVIL WAR.
her to leave their waters, and, in doing so, she encountered a
national vessel named the KIearsarge, commanded by Captain
John Winslow. The Alabama was sunk, but her commander
escaped in an English vessel.
In the early part of July, an invading force, under General
Jubal A. Early, left Lee's army for the purpose of seizing supplies.  General Lewis Wallace, with a force numbering about
one-third that of Early, met the latter at the Moonocacy river.
He kept the confederates from Baltimore and Washington, but
was compelled by superior numbers to fall back, and Early
carried off a large amount of booty. On the 30th of the same
month, another force ascended through Maryland, into Pennsylvania, as far as the village of Chambersburg, which they set on
fire. (See views Nos. 2018, 2019, and 2020.) They immediately returned, after gathering supplies in the Shenandoah valley, closely pursued by a force from Grant's army, under General Sheridan.
On the 5th of August, a fleet under Admiral Farragut, and a
co-operating land force under General Gordon Granger, entered
Mobile. On the Sth, Fort Gaines, and on the 23d, Fort Morgan
were surrendered to Farragut. Both these forts were strong
posts at the entrance of Mobile Bay, and were well garrisoned.
In view of this and other victories, the president, on -the 3d of
September, issued a proclamation recommending the next Sunday, September 11th, as a day of thanksgiving and prayer.
In the beginning of November, General Sherman sent General
George H. Thomas, with a considerable force, to Tennessee,
against Hood, and, on the 14th, he himself left Atlanta on a
march to the sea. He captured Milledgeville, the capital of the
state of Georgia, on the 29th, and continued his advance toward
Savannah, taking possession of that city on the 21st of December. General Hood coming up toward Nashville, he was met
at Franklin by a portion of Thomas' army, under General Schofield, on the 30th of November. Schofield was driven back to
Nashville, but, on the 15th of December, General Thomas advanced against Hood, and compelled him to flee into Alabama,
after suffering great losses.




THE CIVIL WAR.                    91
On the 8th of November, Abraham  Lincoln was re-elected
president of the United States, and Andrew Johnson, of Tennessee, vice president, by the republican party.  The democratic
candidate was General George B. McClellan.
1865.
After the capture of Savannah by General Sherman, he was
joined by the army in South Carolina, under General Foster.
He moved northward to Columbia, the capital of South Carolina, which he captured on the 17th of February.  Thence he
advanced to Goldsboro, in North Carolina, where, on the 22d of
March, he was joined by General Schofield, from Newbern, and
General Terry, who had captured Wilmington, on the Cape Fear
river, on the 15th of January, assisted by a naval force under
Admiral Porter.  This united force held Johnston in check at
Raleigh, the capital of the state.
General Sheridan held command of the Shenandoah valley,
and, in the early part of March, he attacked General Early at
Charlottesville, and gained a great victory. He then destroyed
the railway communication between Richmond and Lynchburg,
and, at about the middle of March, he, with General Edward O.
C. Ord, and the army of the James, joined General Grant before
Richmond. (See views of Richmond, Virginia.)
Lee now endeavored to escape from Richmond, and go to join
Johnston, in North Carolina, but, in this he was foiled by Grant,
who would not allow him to leave Richmond. After several
severely fought battles, in which Lee suffered a loss of over twenty
thousand men, he was, at length, obliged to sign terms of capitulation. On the 9th of April, the main army of the confederates
was surrendered by their general-in-chief to General Grant,
and they were paroled as prisoners of war. This was " the
death blow to the rebellion."  The "president," Jefferson Davis,
and the other ring-leaders of the conspiracy fled, and, on the
26th, General Johnston surrendered to General Sherman "on the
terms accorded to Lee." The inferior forces were speedily dispersed, and the war was substantially ended in May.




CHAPTER IX.
THE CLOSE OF THE NV1Rt.
JOHNSON S ADMINISTRATION.
President Lincoln went down to the front on the 24th of
March, 18657 and, at the time of the fall of Richmond, he was
at Grant's headquarters in City Point, Virginia.  The next day,
April 4th,.he went to Richmond, and held a levee in the deserted mansion of the late confederate " president."
On the 14th of April, four years after the evacuation of Fort
Sumter, General Anderson, together with a great many officers,
soldiers and civilians, celebrated this anniversary by raising over
the ruins the old flag which Anderson carried away with him at
the time of the evacuation.  (See views Nos. 3137 to 8146,.inclusive.)
At this time the whole land was filled with rejoicing concerning the surrender of Lee, and the probable speedy surrender of
Johnston, but, on the morning of the 15th of April, the joy was
turned into sorrow by the announcement that, on the previous
evening, the president had been stricken down by the hand of an
assassin. President Lincoln and General Grant had been invited to visit Ford's theatre on that evening, and it had been publicly announced that they would be present.  General Grant, on
that day, was suddenly called out of the city, but the president,
not willing to disappoint the public, went, with his wife and two
others. During the progress of the play, John Wilkes Booth, an
actor of some note, came into the box from behind, shot the
president, and, jumping on the stage, escaped through the back
door of the theatre. At the same time, Secretary Seward, who
was lying ill at his residence, was severely wounded by a man
who had entered the house ostensibly for the purpose of delivering a message from Mr. Seward's attending physician. A plot




THE CLOSE OF THE WAR.                 93
had been concocted to murder the president, vice president,
General Grant, the cabinet officers, and other distinguished persons, and the leaders of the " confederacy" were suspected of
forming it, in the hope that'" in the midst of the confusion that
might ensue, their wicked cause might gain an advantage."
The plan, however, was unsuccessful. The president was the
only one killed. Secretary Seward recovered, and the men
appointed to assassinate the other intended victims, failed to
carry out their part of the plot.
Andrew Johnson was inaugurated president at ten o'clock on
the 15th of April, and " the government went steadily on in its
course."  The remains of the martyred president were taken,
by the way of the most important cities of the United States, to
his former residence, Springfield, Illinois.  Large crowds of
people accompanied the funeral procession in every city through
which it passed. In Philadelphia the body was seen by one
hundred and twenty thousand citizens, and in New York, both
to and from the City Hall, where the body was exhibited, the
mournful cortege was attended by an immense concourse. (See
views of the " funeral of President Lincoln, New York city.")
On the 26th of April, the day of the surrender of Johnston,
Booth and one of his accomplices, David C. Harrold, were found
in a barn near Port Royal, Virginia. Upon their refusal to
surrender themselves, the barn was set on fire. At this, Harrold
came out and gave himself up, but Booth, still refusing, was
shot by a sergeant named Corbett.
On the 10th of May, the fugitive president of the " Confederate States" was captured by a portion of the fourth Michigan
cavalry, under Colonel B. D. Pritchard. They surprised his
party in their camp near Irwinsville, Georgia, and, while Davis
was attempting to escape in the disguise of a woman, he was
made a prisoner. He was taken to Washington to await his
trial on a charge of treason.
On the 7th of July, Harrold, and some others convicted of
complicity in the assassination conspiracy, were hung, and other
accomplices punished by banishment or imprisonment.




94               THE CLOSE OF THE WAR.
On the 29th of May, 1866, the nation was again thrown into
mournillg by the intelligence that the veteran General Scott had
died at West Point, New York, at the advanced age of eighty
years.
On the 22d of February, 1866, President Johnson made a
speech to a crowd that had assembled in front of his house, in
which he placed himself in opposition to the party who had
elected him, and, from that time until the close of his administration, attempted to enforce a policy odious to the great mass
of the loyal people of the north, and in direct opposition to the
legislation of congress.  From the date of his speech until the
adjournment of the thirty-ninth congress, March, 1867, out of
fifteen bills which had passed both houses of congress, ten were
vetoed by the president, six of which were passed over his head;
one was a pocket veto, and four became laws without his
signature.
On the 6th of May, 1867, Jefferson Davis was admitted to
bail in the sum of one hundred thousand dollars.  His bail bond
was signed by Horace Greeley, Augustus Schell, J. Minor
Botts, and several leading Richmond secessionists.
After two unsuccessful attempts, by members of the fortieth
congress, to impeach the president for " high crimes and misdemeanors," one in June and the other in December, 1867, articles
of impeachment were finally drawn up in March, 1868. The
trial closed on the 6th of May.  The members of the senate
constituted the jury. A vote of two-thirds of the members was
required to convict the president, and he was acquitted by a
vote of nineteen to thirty-five; so he continued the occupant of
the presidential chair until the close of his term.
On the 3d of November, General Ulysses S. Grant was elected
president of the United States, and Schuyler Colfax, of Indiana,
the speaker of the house of representatives, vice president. On
the 4th of March, 1869, Chief Justice Salmon P. Chase administered the oath of office to President Grant.
Now, with this battle-scarred chieftain at the helm of the ship
of state, let us hope that the great work of reconstraction,




THE CLOSE OF THE WAR.                95
which has been so successfully commenced, may be speedily
completed; that the whole nation, from the lakes to the gulf, and
from ocean to ocean, may be united in advancing the best interests of the government; and that our common country, by the
blessing of Almighty God, may henceforth, as heretofore, be an
asylum for the oppressed and persecuted of all lands, and continue, in all future time, to hold her proud position at the head
of the nations of the earth.




CHAPTER X.
THE NORTH AMERICAN INDIANS.
The term Indian, as applied to the various nations and tribes
that inhabited the western continent at the time of its discovery
by the Spaniards, originated in the mistaken idea that the newly-found continent formed a part of Asia. By some ethnologists
the American Indians are classed as a distinct variety of the
human race, and are as peculiar to the American continent as
its fauna and flora. Their history, previous to the settlements
made among them by the Europeans, is involved in obscurity.
But the supposition that they are not the descendants of Adam
and Eve is erroneous, as it is contrary to the Bible.
Other ethnologists refer their origin to the great Mongolian
family, who have found their way from Asia across Behring's
Strait. This Strait is only thirty-six miles wide, and during
severe winter seasons it is frozen over, forming an easy mode of
communication between the two continents; or the passage
across may have been made in boats which have been driven
over by storms.
According to some historians, the Indians owe their origin to
the " lost tribes of Israel," who, we are told, "took counsel to
go forth into a farther country, where never mankind dwelt."
These tribes, it is thought by some, crossed over into America,
and are the progenitors of the Indian race.  This theory is,
however, unsupported by acknowledged facts.
The era of their existence as a distinct nation probably dates
back to a short time subsequent to the dispersion at Babel, which
gave to each branch of the human family its language and individuality. At this time mankind penetrated beyond the Plains
of Shinar, and gradually spread over Northern Asia, where, by
adventure or accident, they reached the new continent.




THE NORTH AMERICAN INDIANS.               97
After the confusion of tongues, a large body of shepherds,
driving their flocks before them, moved to Egypt, made a conquest of the country, founded an empire under the name of the
Shepherd Kings, built large cities, and constructed the massive
pyramids on which their history is recorded in hieroglyphics.
Their tyranny became unendurable, and the Egyptians drove
them from their land. These defeated shepherds, it is thought
by some, crossed into America in the manner before described,
and it is probable they are the progenitors of the Indians who
inhabited Mexico. The mounds and ancient works, the ruins of
which still remain; also the manner of interring their dead, corresponding with the Egyptians, confirm this opinion.
The character and language of the various tribes that peopled
our country, differed so materially from Mexican Indians, that
it is highly probable that they were descendants from a later
body of Asiatic adventurers than the latter.
The first settlers were somewhat advanced in civilization and
the mechanical arts. Remains of some of their structures are
still to be seen in various parts of our country.  They were
probably driven from their settlements further to the south by
less civilized tribes, until the whole continent was peopled.
The traditions of the Indians do but little to lift the veil of
mystery that shrouds their origin.  They entertain the idea that
they are an insulated race, distinct from other people, and had
their origin in the ground. Hence their name, Aborigines.
According to one tradition, they climbed from the interior to
the surface of the globe, by means of the roots of a large vine.
By another account, their ancestors, after living under ground
for ages, discovered the light of day through an aperture of a
cavern, and by almost superhuman efforts, emerged from their
subterranean prison. By another tradition, their fathers crossed
a tract of water to reach their present habitation.
The Indian tribes are classified in reference to their dialects,
into eight distinct families, of which the Algonquins is the
largest. This name was given them by the French. They
7




98            THE NORTHI AMERICAN INDIANS.
occupied a great portion of the United 8tates east of the Mississippi and north of North Carolina and Tennessee. It was
composed of several powerful tribes, and the number of its warriors exceeded those of all the other tribes together.
The Huron Iroquois tribes occupied the territory of Canada
south of the Ottawa river, and portions of the states of New
York, Ohio, and Pennsylvania.  To this family belonged the
Five Nations.  They were joined by the Tuscaroras, making a.
confederacy known as the Six Nations.  The English obtained
their frien'dslhip and assistance during the French war.  Chiefs
from each of these nations met the colonial representatives at a
congress assembled at Albany, where a plan of an American
union was presented by Benjamin Franklin.  Hiendric, the Mohawk warrior, urged its acceptance.  "We thank you," he said,
"' for brightening the covenant chain. We will take this belt to
Onondaga, where our council fire always burns, and keep it so
securely that neither the thunderbolt nor the lightning  shall
break it.  Strengthen yourselves, and bring as many as you
can into this covenant chain."
The Dakotahs, or Sioux, were a large family west of the Mississippi; hence but little was known about them by the early
settlers.
The Catawbas were a powerful family, inhabiting the interior
of South Carolina, but were vanquished and nearly exterminated
by the Iroquois. They assisted the people of South Carolina in
their wars with the Cherokees and other hostile tribes; also
aided them during the revolution.  When the civil war broke
out in 18617 the survivors of this nation, numbering less than
one hundred souls, occupied a small village on the Catawba river.
The Catavbas were joined on the west by the Cherokees, who
occupied the territory of the Blue Ridge and Alleghanies, one
of the most delightful places in the United States.  They had
long and bloody wars with the Five Nations.  They aided the
British during the revolution, and for a number of years thereafter the frontier of the Carolinas suffered from their ravages.
A treaty was made with them in 1791, and no more trouble




TFIE NORTH AMERICAN INDIANS.             99
ensued. In 1812, they assisted the United States in subjugating the Creeks, under their fierce chief, Tecumseh.  They rapidly advanced in civilization, and schools and a printing press
were established, but they were obliged to seek a new home in
the wilderness.  They now constitute the largest, most civilized,
and prosperous of the Indian tribes, notwithstanding the injuries they suffered during the late civil war. They now number
about fifteen thousand souls.
The Uchees, a remnant of a once powerful tribe, were the
sixth of the Indian families. But little of their history is known.
They never occupied any other region than the northern part of
Georgia.  They boasted that they were the descendants of the
most ancient inhabitants of the region in which they were found.
Their language differed from the other families in being more
harsh and guttural.
The Natchez occupied territory on the east bank of the Mississippi, in the vicinity of the city which bears their name.
Their early history is not known, but from a tradition which
they retained of having seen "warriors of fire" where they
formerly lived, which no doubt refers to Cortes' soldiers, we
may infer that they were connected with the Mexican Indians.
The Natchez were jealous of the French, whom they considered
as intruders, and determined to drive them from their country.
They were unsuccessful, and were nearly exterminated by their
enemy. Those who survived joined the Creek confederacy, and
their original language has become extinct.
The Mobilian family was composed of a group of tribes.
Their territory extended over the region between the Atlantic
and the Mississippi, bounded on the north by the Ohio river,
and on the south by the Gulf of Mexico.  The most powerful
and important tribe of this family was the Creeks.  Though
strong and warlike, considerable attention was given to agriculture, and, when not engaged in war, they assisted the women in
cultivating the soil. They were a source of great annoyance to
the white settlers on the Georgia frontier, and during the revolution they assisted the British. The Seminole3, a part of the
Creek confederacy, caused much trouble in Florida. They were




100          THE NORTH AMERICAN INDIANS.
finally subjugated in 1842, after which the greater portion of
the tribe moved beyond the Mississippi.  The Choctaws and
Chickasaws are also members of the Mobilian family. The
Choctaws, when first discovered by the Europeans, were engaged in agricultural pursuits, were possessed of quiet habits,
and never engaged in war, except for their defense. The brave
Chickasaws were the early friends of the English. They aided
the English during the revolution, but since that time have been
friendly with the United States.
Light is often shed upon the history of a people by a study of
their language. A great variety of dialects were used by the
Indians, bearing a general resemblance to each other, but sufficient difference was discovered to group them into eight families.
Their language possesses a wild grandeur, and much less irregularity than cultivated tongues. The simple child of nature,
unacquainted with art, science, commerce, and mechanical industry, had need of but few words; yet, as an intelligent being,
governed by passions and affections, he required some mode of
expressing his thoughts and feelings, and we find him in all parts
of the continent possessing a language suited to his condition.
None of the Indian languages were written, but an ingenious
Cherokee seeing the books used by missionaries, and learning
that the characters which they contained represented the sounds
used by them in speaking, without any knowledge of other languages, succeeded in making an alphabet for his own language,
consisting of eighty-five characters, representing syllables, of
which there are but eighty-five in their language.  The Cherokee words are short, and it requires but little study to enable
one to read and write it with ease.
The Indians, though unable to write, like the Egyptians and
other ancient nations, conveyed their thoughts by pictures or
hieroglyphics, by which means they communicated with each
other. The Mexicans, at the time of Cortes' invasion, informed
their king of the arrival of the Spaniards and their ships, by
pieces of white linen, on which were painted objects resembling
vessels and men in Spanish garb.




THE NORTH AMERICAN INDIANS.               101
Hieroglyphics have been found on rocks and trees in different
parts of our country.  These, with their oral traditions, are all
they possess of their past history. Figures abound in the Indian language, often rendering it sublime.'" Many Indian chiefs
were as distinguished for their eloquence as for their courage.
Their delivery was animated, dignified and forcible; their gesticulation graceful and natural.  Some of their speeches have
scarcely been surpassed by the greatest efforts of civilized
orators."
The relics of the Aborigines may be considered under two
classes. Those of recent origin, such as rude weapons and ornaments, and those of ancient origin, among which are ruins of
fortifications, fire places, weapons, utensils and ornaments of
copper, brass and silver, walls of cities, sculptured columns, and
catacombs containing mummies. In the Illinois salt works were
found the remains of a well and drain, also ashes and fragments
of pottery, and in other salt-springs have been found vessels
suitable for evaporating water. From discoveries made in the
copper mines of Lake Superior, it is probable they have been
worked before. In Ohio, a silver cup was discovered in a mound
which had been partially undermined by a stream. Isinglass
mirrors have been discovered many feet below the surface.
The number of mounds erected in North America is variously
estimated at from five to ten thousand.  These are most numerous in Mexico and Central America.  They also abound in ruins
and remains of cities, temples, pyramids, and sculptured columns
which equal in grandeur and magnificence those of the old world.
(See views of Central America.)
The Mexicans and Peruvians were the only two of the many
nations that peopled this continent at the time it was first explored by the Spaniards, who had attained to any high degree
of civilization.
The Indians are characterized by a red or copper color, a
square head with a low, broad forehead, full face and prominent
cheek bones, their eyes dark and expressive, their hair black,
coarse, and straight; their forms erect and well proportioned,
and their powers of endurance remarkable.




102           THE NORTH AMERICAN INDIANS.
The men were employed in war, hunting and fishing. When
engaged in the chase or war, the ground, without shelter, formed
their bed; they had no protection except the fires they kindled
to prevent attacks from wild beasts. The women bore all the
burdens during journeys.  They built the huts or wigwams in
which they lived, planted and gathered their crops, and dressed
skins for clothing.  Manual labor was considered beneath a
warrior; hence all menial labor was performed by the women.
Their wigwams were made of poles, covered with skins, mats,
or bark of trees. They were constructed with little labor, and
abandoned when a change of residence was desired.  They were
generally found grouped together in villages.  (See Indian
views.)
For a great portion of the year they subsisted on game, fish,
and roots.  When these resources failed they resorted to maize
or Indian corn.  Their money consisted of little tubes, made of
common clam shells; they were fastened upon belts and called
wampum.
A reguular union between husband and wife was universal
among all the tribes.  The men had a right to as many wives as
they could support.  The marriage tie generally lasted till death,
but by some, wives were taklen anld dismissed at pleasure.  The
Indian warrior compelled his wife, or squaw, to do all the drudgery, and often treated her with cruelty.  For his children he
entertained a stronger affection.
Education among the Indians consisted chiefly in such training as would, enable them  to endure hardships, hunger and
fatigue; they also practiced athletic exercises.  The Indian boy,
at the age of eight years, was required to do without food and
drink for half a day.  When he was twelve his face was blackened, and he was required to fast a whole day at a time.  At
eighteen his face vas blackened for the last time; he was taken
into the woods and remained there without food as long as life
could be so supported.  tIe was then taken home, praised for
his endurance, and henceforth considered himself a man.
Indian wars were usually carried on by small parties; they
could not act in large bodies with much success, from a want of




THE NORTH AMERICAN INDIANS.               103
discipline. Their object was to surprise the enemy, and kill as
many as possible. Their honors were counted by the number of
scalps they obtained. They depended for food on the game they
might secure in the forest.  Their weapons were bows and
arrows, tomahawks of stone, and scalping-knives of bone, until
the arrival of the Europeans, when they were made of iron.
A captive was taken to the village of his conquerors, where
he was obliged to'" run the gauntlet" between two lines of the
savages, who beat him as he passed.  He then was adopted into
the tribe or burned at the stake.
Each tribe, among the Indians, had its chief or sachem, who
generally excelled the rest of his tribe in cunning, bravery or
eloquence. They had no laws, and during peace the chiefs exercised no authority.  if a wrong was perpetllated, its punishment
was left to the party who suffered it, and not to the tribe.
Different modes of burial prevailed in diff-rent tribes.  Some
bodies were buried in a sitting posture, some were laid on the
ground, and a little house, covered with bark, erected over them.
By some tribes bodies were deposited in rude coffins and placed
on a high scaffold.  By others they were placted oil the boughs
of trees, where they remained until, from  ldecomposition, the
bones fell to the ground.  The dead were buried with their bows
and arrows, tomahawks, saddles, food and tobacco.  Sometimes
a favorite horse and dog were killed and interred svith their
master; in fact, every thing they value in life is buried with
them, so as to be ready for use on entering the spirit land.  (See
views of Indian graves.)
The Indians of the present day preserve these customs.  The
funeral service consists of a prayer to the Great Spirit, of which
the following is an example:  o I"We are sorry to part with our
brother, who was a daring brave and a good Indian, and whose
lodge contained many scalps of his enemies.  But we have
yielded to Thy will, and we commit him to Thy care.  We have
outfitted him as Thou seest, for his journey; and now we desire
Thee to lead him to the fair land beyond the setting sun, where
game is always plentiful, and bad Indians and white men never
come."




104          THE NORTH AMERICAN INDIANS.
The Indians believed in a God or " Great Spirit " whom they
worshiped, and to whom they prayed for courage and success in
war. It was a general belief among the different tribes that the
Deity possesses a human form. With their general idea of the
Deity and the creation various traditions were blended. According to the tradition of the Chippewas, a man was created and
placed on the earth during the summer season. He subsisted
on berries until winter, when he supported life by hunting.
Finding it difficult to walk through deep snow, he attempted to
make a snow-shoe. He succeeded, without difficulty, in making
the frame, but being unable to weave in the web, he abandoned
it. Every evening, on returning from hunting, he perceived that
the work was progressing. This he attributed to a bird which
he captured by strategem, and it immediately changed into a
beautiful woman.
The Indians believe in the existence of good and evil spirits;
the former of whom endow certain persons with superior power.
These were called medicine men. If in case of disease a cure
was effected by one of them, he was thought to have gained a
victory over the evil spirit, and if unsuccessful it was through no
fault of the medicine man, and the blame was attached to the
evil spirit.
They imagined that the soul when freed from the body passed
over a dark river, into which the wicked were precipitated, where
they remained forever struggling among the waves, or were
borne to a place of torment. The good crossed in safety, and
hastened to the happy hunting grounds which abounded in the
choicest game.
A want of foresight is peculiar to the Indian race. This
deficiency in their character has been the cause of much distress.
They provide but little food at a time, and consequently when
no game is to be obtained they suffer greatly from want of food.
Among other prominent traits of character are caution and fortitude.  When among friends or enemies every word and action
is looked upon with suspicion, and, when undergoing the most
excruciating tortures at the hand of an enemy, their sufferings
are betrayed by neither sigh nor groan.




THE NORTH AMERICAN INDIANS.             105
The Indians inhabiting the Indian territory at the present
time number about one hundred and fifty thousand. The United
States purchased the lands they occupied, and gives them others
within the new territory which the government has assigned
them, transports them, furnishes agricultural implements, plows
and fences a portion of their fields, erects school-houses and supports teachers in them the year through. (See views of government school.)
A form of government in each tribe has been established similar to the state governments.
The Choctaws inhabit the southern part of the territory, and
are engaged in the cultivation of corn, flax, hemp, tobacco, and
cotton.  Their government is divided into four departments;
legislative, executive, judicial and military.
The Chickasaws have amassed considerable wealth from the
sale of their lands east of the Mississippi, to the United States.
They have a fund of ten thousand dollars annually applied to
education.
The Cherokees take the lead in civilization.  Their form of
government is similar to the Choctaws. They work the lead
mines, manufacture salt, and are also engaged in agriculture.
The Creeks, among which are about sixteen hundred Seminoles, are less advanced in civilization, and their form of government less perfect than the other tribes.
The emigrating tribes are the Senecas, Shawnees, Pottawatomies, Iowas, Weas, Piankashaws, Peorias, Kaskaskias, Ottawas,
Delawares, Kickapoos, Wyandots, Sacs and Foxes, all of which
are more or less civilized, and receive annuities from the government.
The native tribes residing in the Indian territory are the Pawnees, Sioux, Quapaws, Kansas, Otoes, Omahoes and Ponsars,
all of which are in a degraded condition. They receive annuties from the United States. (See views of Sioux and Pawnees.)
The Camanches are a warlike tribe, living south of the Great
Platte.  They follow the buffalo north in summer, and in winter
return with them to the plains of Texas.
North of the Great Platte are fifteen or twenty small tribes.




106           THE NORTH AMERICAN INDIANS.
In the vicinity of the Rocky Mountains are Shoshonees or
Snakes, Arapahoes, Crows and Blackfeet, the last two of which
are very warlike tribes. The Blackfeet stole a blanket, infected
with small pox, from the American Fur company, which caused
the disease to spread all through their tribe, and they were
reduced in number about two-thirds.
Such is the brief history of the Aboriginal nations that inhabited our country, and annihilation seems to be their destiny.
"The great garden of the western world needed tillers, and
white men came. They have thoroughly changed the condition
of the land and the people.  The light of civilization has revealed, and industry developed, vast treasures in the soil, while,
before its radiance, the Aboriginals are rapidly melting like snow
in the sunbeams. A few generations will pass, and no representatives of the North American Indians will remain upon the
earth."




CHAPTER XI.
DECLARATION OF INDEPENDENCE.
A DECLARATION BY THE REPRESENTATIVES OF TIHE UNITED
STATES OF AMERICA, IN CONGRESS ASSEMBLED.
When, in the course of human events, it becomes necessary
for one people to dissolve the political bands which have connected them with another, and to assume, among the powers of
the earth, the separate and equal station to which the laws of
nature and of nature's God entitle them, a decent respect to
the opinions of mankind requires that they should declare the
causes which impel them to the separation.
We hold these truths to be self-evident-that all men are
created equal; that they are endowed by their Creator with
certain inalienable rights; that among these are life, liberty and
the pursuit of happiness. That, to secure these rights, governments are instituted among men, deriving their just powers
from the consent of the governed; that, whenever any form of
government becomes destructive of these ends, it is the right of
the people to alter or abolish it, anid to institute a new government, laying its foundations on such principles, and organizing
its powers in such form, as to them shall seem most likely to
effect their safety and happiness. Prudence, indeed, will dictate
that governments long established should not be changed for
light and transient causes; and, accordingly, all experience hath
shown that mankind are more disposed to suffer, while evils are
sufferable, than to right themselves by abolishing the forms to
which they are accustomed. ]But when a long train of abuses
and usurpations, pursuing invariably the same object, evinces a
design to reduce them under absolute despotism, it is their right,
it is their duty, to throw off such government, and to provide
new guards for their future security. Such has been the patient




108          DECLARATION OF INDEPENDENCE.
sufferance of these colonies, and such is now the necessity which
constrains them to alter their former systems of government.
The history of the present king of Great Britain, is a history
of repeated injuries and usurpations, all having in direct object
the establishment of an absolute tyranny over these states.  To
prove this, let facts be submitted to a candid world.
He has refused his assent to laws the most wholesome and
necessary for the public good.
He has forbidden his governors to pass laws of immediate
and pressing importance, unless suspended in their operations
till his assent should be obtained; and, when so suspended, he
has utterly neglected to attend to them.
He has refused to pass other laws for the accommodation of
large districts of people, unless those people would relinquish
the right of representation in the legislature-a right inestimable to them, and formidable to tyrants only.
He has called together legislative bodies at places unusual,
uncomfortable, and distant from the repository of their public
records, for the sole purpose of fatiguing them into compliance
with his measures.
He has dissolved representative houses repeatedly, for opposing, with manly firmness, his invasions on the rights of the
people.
He has refused, for a long time after such dissolutions, to
cause others to be elected, whereby the legislative powers, incapable of annihilation, have returned to the people at large for
their exercise; the state remaining, in the meantime, exposed to
all the dangers of invasions from without, and convulsions
within.
He has endeavored to prevent the population of these states;
for that purpose obstructing the laws for the naturalization of
foreigners; refilsing to pass others to encourage their migration
hither, and raising the conditions of new appropriations of
lands.
IHe has obstructed the administration of justice, by refusing
his assent to laws for establishing judiciary powers.




DECLARATION OF INDEPENDENCE.            109
He has made judges dependent on his will alone for the tenure of their offices, and the amount and payment of their
salaries.
He has erected a multitude of new offices, and sent hither
swarms of officers to harass our people and eat out their substance.
He has kept among us in times of peace, standing armies,
without the consent of our legislatures.
He has affected to render the military independent of, and
superior to, the civil power.
He has combined with others to subject us to a jurisdiction
foreign to our constitutions, and unacknowledged by our laws;
giving his assent to their acts of pretended legislation;
For quartering large bodies of armed troops among us;
For protecting them, by a mock trial, from punishment for
any murders which they should commit on the inhabitants of
these states;
For cutting off our trade with all parts of the world;
For imposing taxes on us without our consent;
For depriving us, in many cases, of the benefits of trial by
jury;
For transporting us beyond seas, to be tried for pretended
offenses;
For abolishing the free system of English laws in a neighboring province, establishing therein an arbitrary government, and
enlarging its boundaries, so as to render it at once an example
and fit instrument for introducing the same absolute rule into
these colonies;
For taking away our charters, abolishing our most valuable
laws, and altering, fundamentally, the forms of our governments;
For suspending our own legislatures, and declaring themselves
invested with power to legislate for us in all cases whatsoever.
He has abdicated government here, by declaring us out of his
protection, and waging war against us.
He has plundered our seas, ravaged our coasts, burned our
towns, and destroyed the lives of our people.




110          DECLARATION OF INDEPENDENCE.
He is at this time transporting large armies of foreign mercenaries, to complete the works of death, desolation, and tyranny,
already begun with circumstances of cruelty and perfidy scarcely
paralleled in the most barbarous ages, and totally unworthy the
head of a civilized nation.
He has constrained our fellow-citizens, taken captive on the
high seas, to bear arms against their country, to become the
executioners of their friends and brethren, or to fall themselves
by their hands.
He has excited domestic insurrection among us, and has endeavored to bring on the inhabitants of our frontiers, the merciless
Indian savages, whose known rule of warfare is an undistinguished destruction of all ages, sexes, and conditions.
In every stage of these oppressions we have petitioned for
redress in the most humble terms; our repeated petitions have
been answered only by repeated injury. A prince whose character is thus marked by every act which may define a tyrant, is
unfit to be the ruler of a free people.
Nor have we been wanting in our attentions to our British
brethren. We have warned them, from time to time, of attempts
by their legislature to extend an unwarrantable jurisdiction over
us. We have reminded them of the circumstances of our emigration and settlement here.  We have appealed to their native
justice and magnanimity, and we have conjured them by the
ties of our common kindred, to disavow these usurpations, which
would inevitably interrupt our connections and correspondence.
They, too, have been deaf to the voice of justice and of consanguinity. We must, therefore, acquiesce in the necessity
which compels our separation, and hold them as we hold the
rest of mankind-enemies in war-in peace, friends.
We, therefore, the representatives of the United States of
America, in general congress assembled, appealing to the Supreme Judge of the world for the rectitude of our intentions,
do, in the name and by the authority of the good people of
these colonies, solemnly publish and declare that these united
colonies are, and of right ought to be, free and independent




DECLARATION OF INDEPENDENCE.             111
states; that they are absolved from all allegiance to the British
crown, and that all political connection between them and the
state of Great Britain is, and ouglht to be, totally dissolved; and
that, as free and independent states, they have full power to
levy war, conclude peace, contract alliances, establish commerce,
and do all other acts and things which independent states may
of right do. And for the support of this Declaration, with a
firm reliance on the protection of Divine Providence, we mutually pledge to each other our lives, our fortunes, and our sacred
honor.




CHAPTER XII.
CONSTITUTION OF THE UNITED STATES.
We, the People of the United States, in order to form a more
perfect Union, establish justice, insure domestic tranquillity,
provide for the common defence, promote the general welfare,
and secure the blessings of liberty to ourselves and our posterity, do ordain and establish this Constitution for the United
States of America.
ARTICLE I.
SECTION 1. All the legislative powers herein granted shall
be vested in a congress of the United States, which shall consist
of a senate and house of representatives.
SEC. 2. The house of representatives shall be composed of
members chosen every second year by the people of the several
states, and the electors in each state shall have the qualifications requisite for electors of the most numerous branch of the
state legislature.
No person shall be a representative who shall not have attained to the age of twenty-five years, and been seven years a
citizen of the United States, and who shall not, when elected, be
an inhabitant of that state in which he shall be chosen.
Representatives and direct taxes shall be apportioned among
the several states which may be included within this union, according to their respective numbers, which shall be determined
by adding to the whole number of free persons, including those
bound to service for a term of years, and excluding Indians not
taxed, three-fifths of all other persons. The actual enumeration
shall be made within three years after the first meeting of the
congress of the United States, and within every subsequent term
of ten years, in such manner as they shall by law direct. The




CONSTITUTION.                    113
number of representatives shall not exceed one for every thirty
thousand, but each state shall have at least one representative;
and until such enumeration shall be made, the state of New
Hampshire shall be entitled to choose three, Massachusetts eight,
Rhode Island and Providence plantations one, Connecticut five,
New York six, New Jersey four, Pennsylvania eight, Delaware
one, Maryland six, Virginia ten, North Carolina five, South
Carolina five, and Georgia three.
When vacancies happen in the representation from any state,
the executive authority thereof shall issue writs of election to
fill such vacancies.
The house of representatives shall choose their speaker and
other officers; and shall have the sole power of impeachment.
SEC. 3. The senate of the United States shall be composed
of two senators from each state, chosen by the legislature thereof,
for six years; and each senator shall have one vote.
Immediately after they shall be assembled in consequence of
the first election, they shall be divided as equally as may be into
three classes.  The seats of the senators of the first class shall
be vacated at the expiration of the second year, of the second
class at the expiration of the fourth year, and of the third class
at the expiration of the sixth year, so that one-third may be
chosen every second year; and if vacancies happen by resignation, or otherwise, during the recess of the legislature of any
state, the executive thereof may make temporary appointments
until the next meeting of the legislature, which shall then fill
such vacancies.
No person shall be a senator who shall not have attained to
the age of thirty years, and been nine years a citizen of the
United States, and who shall not, when elected, be an inhabitant
of that state for which he shall be chosen.
The vice president of the United States shall be president of
the Senate, but shall have no vote, unless they be equally divided.
The senate shall choose their other officers, and also a president pro tempore, in the absence of the vice president, or when
he shall exercise the office of president of the United States.
8




114                CONSTITUTION OF THE
The senate shall have the sole power to try all impeachments.
When sitting for that purpose, they shall be on oath or affirmation. When the president of the United States is tried, the
chief justice shall preside; and no person shall be convicted
without the concurrence of two-thirds of the members present.
Judgment in cases of impeachment shall not extend further
than to removal from office, and disqualification to hold and enjoy any office of honor, trust or profit under the United States;
but the party convicted shall nevertheless be liable and subject
to indictment, trial, judgment and punishment, according to law.
SEC. 4. The times, places and manner of holding elections
for senators and representatives, shall be prescribed in each state
by the legislature thereof; but the congress may at any time by
law make or alter such regulations, except as the places of choosing senators.
The congress shall assemble at least once in every year, and
such meeting shall be on the first Monday in December, unless
they shall by law appoint a different day.
SEc. 5. Each house shall be the judge of the elections, returns, and qualifications of its own members, and a majority of
each shall constitute a quorum to do business; but a smaller
number may adjourn from day to day, and may be authorized
to compel the attendance of absent members, in such manner
and under such penalties as each house may provide.
Each house may determine the rules of its proceedings, punish its members for disorderly behavior, and, with the concurrence of two-thirds, expel a member.
Each house shall keep a journal of its proceedings, and from
time to time publish the same, excepting such parts as may in
their judgment require secrecy; and the yeas and nays of the
members of either house on any question shall, at the desire
of one-fifth of those present, be entered on the journal.
Neither house, during the session of congress, shall, without
the consent of the other, adjourn for more than three days, nor
to any other place than that in which the two houses shall be
sitting.




UNITED STATES.                    115
SEC. 6. The senators and representatives shall receive a
compensation for their services, to be ascertained by law and
paid out of the treasury of the United States. They shall in all
cases, except treason, felony, and breach of the peace, be priviliged from arrest during their attendance at the sessions of their
respective houses, and in going to and returning from the same;
and for any speech or debate in either house, they shall not be
questioned in any other place.
No senator or representative shall, during the time for which
he was elected, be appointed to any civil office under the authority of the United States, which shall have been created, or the
emoluments whereof shall have been increased during such
time; and no person holding any office under the United States
shall be a member of either house during his continuance in office.
SEC. 7. All bills for raising revenue shall originate in the
house of representatives; but the senate may propose or concur with amendments as on other bills.
Every bill which shall have passed the house of representatives and the senate, shall, before it becomes a law, be presented
to the president of the United States.  If he approve, he shall
sign it; but if not, he shall return it, with his objections, to that
house in which it shall have originated, who shall enter the
objections at large on their journal, and proceed to reconsider
it. If, after such reconsideration, two-thirds of that house shall
agree to pass the bill, it shall be sent, together with the objections, to the other house, by which it shall likewise be reconsidered, and if approved by two-thirds of that house, it shall
become a law.  But in all such cases the votes of both houses
shall be determined by yeas and nays, and the names of the
persons voting for and against the bill shall be entered on the
journal of each house respectively.  If any bill shall not be
returned by the president within ten days (Sundays excepted)
after it shall have been presented to him, the same shall be a
law, in like manner as if he had signed it, unless the congress,
by their adjournment, prevent its return, in which case it shall
not be a law.




116               CONSTITUTION OF THE
Every order, resolution, or vote to which the concurrence of
the senate and house of representatives may be necessary (except on a question of adjournment) shall be presented to the
president of the United States; and before the same shall take
effect, shall be approved by him; or, being disapproved by him,
shall be repassed by two-thirds of the senate and house of representatives, according to the rules and limitations prescribed in
the case of a bill.
SEC. 8. The congress shall have powerTo lay and collect taxes, duties, imposts and excises, to pay
the debts and provide for the common defense and general welfare of the United States; but all duties, imposts and excises
shall be uniform throughout the United States;
To borrow money on the credit of the United States;
To regulate commerce with foreign nations, and among the
several states, and with the Indian tribes;
To establish an uniform rule of naturalization, and uniform
laws on the subject of bankruptcies throughout the United States;
To coin money, regulate the value thereof and of foreign coin,
and fix the standard of weights and measures;
To provide for the punishment of counterfeiting the securities
and current coin of the United States;
To establish post offices and post roads;
To promote the progress of science and useful arts, by securing for limited times to authors and inventors the exclusive right
to their respective writings and discoveries;
To constitute tribunals inferior to the supreme court;
To define and punish piracies and felonies committed on the
high seas, and offenses against the law of nations;
To declare war, grant letters of marque and reprisal, and make
rules concerning captures on land and water;
To raise and support armies; but no appropriation of money
to that use shall be for a longer term than two years;
To provide and maintain a navy;
To make rules for the government and regulation of the land
and naval forces;




UNITED STATES.                    117
To provide for calling forth the militia to execute the laws of
the union, suppress insurrections and repel invasions;
To provide for organizing, arming, and disciplining the militia,
and for governing such part of them as may be employed in the
service of the United States, reserving to the states respectively
the appointment of the officers, and the authority of training
the militia according to the discipline prescribed by congress;
To exercise exclusive legislation, in all cases whatsoever, over
such district (not exceeding ten miles square) as may, by cession
of particular states, and the acceptance of congress, become the
seat of the government of the United States, and to exercise
like authority over all places purchased by the consent of the
legislature of the state in which the same shall be, for the erection of forts, magazines, arsenals, dock yards, and other needful
buildings; and
To make all laws which shall be necessary and proper for carrying into execution the foregoing powers, and all other powers
vested by this constitution in the government of the United
States, or in any department or officer thereof.
SEC. 9. The migration or importation of such persons as any
of the states now existing shall think proper to admit, shall not
be prohibited by the congress prior to the year one thousand
eight hundred and eight, but a tax or duty may be imposed on
such importation, not exceeding ten dollars for each person.
The privilege of the writ of habeas corpus shall not be suspended, unless when, in cases of rebellion or invasion, the public safety may require it.
No bill of attainder or ex post facto law shall be passed.
No capitation, or other direct tax, shall be laid, unless in proportion to the census or enumeration hereinbefore directed to
be taken.
No tax or duty shall be laid on articles exported from any
state.
No preference shall be given by any regulation of commerce
or revenue to the ports of one state over those of another; nor
shall vessels bound to or from one state, be obliged to enter,
clear, or pay duties in another.




118               CONSTITUTION OF THE
No money shall be drawn from the treasury but in consequence
of appropriations made by law; and a regular statement and
account of the receipts and expenditures of all public money
shall be published from time to time.
No title of nobility shall be granted by the United States;
And no person holding any office of profit or trust under them
shall, without the consent of the congress, accept of any present,
emolument, office, or title, of any kind whatever, from any king,
prince, or foreign state.
SEC. 10. No state shall enter into any treaty, alliance, or
confederation; grant letters of marque or reprisal; coin money;
emit bills of credit; make anything but gold and silver coin a
tender in payment of debts; pass any bill of attainder, ex post
facto law, or law impairing the obligation of contracts, or grant
any title of nobility.
No state shall, without the consent of the congress, lay any
imposts or duties on imports or exports, except what may be absolutely necessary for executing its inspection laws; and the net
produce of all duties and imposts, laid by any state on imports
or exports, shall be for the use of the treasury of the United
States; and all such laws shall be subject to the revision and
control of the congress.
No state shall, without the consent of congress, lay any duty
of tonnage, keep troops, or ships of war in time of peace, enter
into any agreement or compact with another state, or with a
foreign power, or engage in war, unless actually invaded, or in
such imminent danger as will not admit of delay.
ARTICLE II.
SECTION 1. The executive power shall be vested in a president of the United States of America.  He shall hold his office
during the term of four years, and, together with the vice-president, chosen for the same term, be elected as follows:
Each state shall appoint, in such manner as the legislature
thereof may direct, a number of electors, equal to the whole
number of senators and representatives to which the state may




UNITED STATES.                    119
be entitled in the congress; but no senator or representative, or
person holding an office of trust or profit under the United States,
shall he appointed an elector.
[The electors shall meet in their respective states, and vote by
ballot for two persons, of whom one, at least, shall not be an inhabitant of the same state with themselves.  And they shall
make a list of all the persons voted for, and of the number of
votes for each; which list they shall sign and certify, and transmit sealed to the seat of the government of the United States,
directed to the president of the senate. The president of the
senate shall, in the presence of the senate and house of representatives, open all the certificates, and the votes shall then be
counted. The person having the greatest number of votes shall
be the president, if such number be a majority of the whole
number of electors appointed; and if there be more than one
who have such majority and have an equal number of votes,
then the house of representatives shall immediately choose by
ballot one of them for president; and if no person have a majority, then from the five highest on the list the said house shall
in like manner choose the president. But in choosing the president, the votes shall be taken by states, the representation from
each state having one vote; a quorum for this purpose shall
consist of a member or members from two-thirds of the states,
and a majority of all the states shall be necessary to a choice.
In every case, after the choice of the president, the person
having the greatest number of votes of the electors shall be the
vice-president. But if there should remain two or more who
have equal votes, the senate shall choose from them by ballot
the vice-president].*
The congress may determine the time of choosing the electors,
and the day on which they shall give their votes; which day
shall be the same throughout the United States.
No person except a natural born citizen, or a citizen of the
United States, at the time of the adoption of this Constitution,
shall be eligible to the office of president; neither shall any
* This clause is annulled. See amendments, article XI.L




120                CONSTITUTION OF THE
person be eligible to that office who shall not have attained to
the age of thirty-five years, and been fourteen years a resident
within the United States.
In case of the removal of the president from office, or of his
death, resignation, or inability to discharge the powers and
duties of the said office, the same shall devolve on the vice-president, and the congress may by law provide for the case of removal, death, resignation, or inability, both of the president and
vice-president, declaring what officer shall then act as president,
and such officer shall act accordingly, until the disability be
removed, or a president shall be elected.
The president shall, at stated times, receive for his services a
compensation, which shall neither be increased nor diminished.
during the period for which he shall have been elected, and he
shall not receive within that period any other emolument from
the United States, or any of them.
Before he enters on the execution of his office, he shall take
the following oath or affirmation:-" I do solemnly swear (or
affirm) that I will faithfully execute the office of president of the
United States, and will, to the best of my ability, preserve, protect and defend the constitution of the United States."
SEC. 2. The president shall be commander-in-chief of the
army and navy of the United States, and of the militia of the
several states, when called into the actual service of the United
States; he may require the opinion, in writing, of the principal
officer in each of the executive departments, upon any subject
relating to the duties of their respective offices, and he shall
have power to grant reprieves and pardons for offenses against
the United States, except in cases of impeachment.
He shall have power, by and with the advice and consent of
the senate, to make treaties, provided two-thirds of the senators
present concur; and he shall nominate, and, by and with the
advice and consent of the senate, shall appoint ambassadors,
other public ministers and consuls, judges of the supreme court;
and all other officers of the United States, whose appointments
are not herein otherwise provided for, and which shall be established by law; but the congress may by law vest the appointment




UNITED STATES.                   121
of such inferior officers as they think proper, in the president
alone, in the courts of law, or in the heads of departments.
The president shall have power to fill up all vacancies that
may happen during the recess of the senate, by granting commissions, which shall expire at the end of their next session.
SEC. 3. He shall from time to time give to the congress
information of the state of the Union, and recommend to their
consideration such measures as he shall judge necessary and
expedient; he may, on extraordinary occasions, convene both
houses, or either of them, and, in case of disagreement between
them, with respect to the time of adjournment, he may adjourn
them to such time as he shall think proper; he shall receive ambassadors and other public ministers; he shall take care that
the laws be faithfully executed, and shall commission all the
officers of the United States.
SEC. 4. The president, vice-president and all civil officers of
the United States, shall be removed from office on impeachment
for, and conviction of, treason, bribery, or other high crimes and
misdemeanors.
ARTICLE III.
SECTION 1. The judicial power of the United States shall be
vested in one supreme court, and in such inferior courts as the
congress may from time to time ordain and establish.  The
judges, both of the supreme and inferior courts, shall hold their
offices during good behavior, and shall, at stated times, receive
for their services, a compensation, which shall not be diminished
during their continuance in office.
SEC. 2. The judicial power shall extend to all cases, in law
and equity, arising under this Constitution, the laws of the
United States, and treaties made, or which shall be made, under
their authority; —to all cases affecting amnbassadors, other public
ministers, and consuls; —to all cases of admiralty and maritime
jurisdiction;-to controversies to which the United States shall
be a party;-to controversies between two or more states;-between a state and citizens of another state; —between citizens




122                CONSTITUTION OF THE
of different states;-between citizens of the same state claiming lands under grants of different states, and between a state,
or the citizens thereof, and foreign states, citizens or subjects.
In all cases affecting ambassadors, other public ministers and
consuls, and those in which a state shall be party, the supreme
court shall have original jurisdiction.  In all the other cases
before mentioned, the supreme court shall have appellate jurisdiction, both as to law and fact, with such exceptions and under
such regulations as the congress shall make.
The trial of all crimes, except in cases of impeachment, shall
be by jury; and such trial shall be held in the state where the
said crimes shall have been committed; but when not committed
within any state, the trial shall be at such place or places as the
congress may by law have directed.
SEc. 3. Treason against the United States shall consist only
in levying war against them, or in adhering to their enemies,
giving them aid and comfort.
No person shall be convicted of treason unless on the testimony of two witnesses to the same overt act, or on confession
in open court.
The congress shall have power to declare the punishment of
treason, but no attainder of treason shall work corruption of
blood, or forfeiture except during the life of the person attainted.
ARTICLE IV.
SECTION 1. Full faith and credit shall be given in each state
to the public acts, records, and judicial proceedings of every
other state.  And the congress may by general laws prescribe
the manner in which such acts, records and proceedings shall be
proved, and the effect thereof.
SEC. 2. The citizens of each state shall be entitled to all privileges and immunities of citizens'of the several states.
A person charged in any state with treason, felony, or other
crime, who shall flee from justice, and be found in another state,
shall, on demand of the executive authority of the state from
which he fled, be delivered up, to be removed to the state having
jurisdiction of the crime.




UNITED STATES.                    123
No person held to service or labor in one state, under the
laws thereof, escaping into another, shall, in consequence of any
law or regulation therein, be discharged from such service or
labor, but shall be delivered up on claim of the party to whom
such service or labor may be due.
SEC. 3. New states may be admitted by the congress into
this union; but no new state shall be formed or erected within
the jurisdiction of any other state; nor any state be formed by
the junction of two or more states, or parts of states, without
the consent of the legislatures of the states concerned, as well
as of the congress.
The congress shall have power to dispose of and make all
needful rules and regulations respecting the territory or other
property belonging to the United States; and nothing in this
constitution shall be so construed as to prejudice any claims of
the United States, or of any particular state.
SEC. 4. The United States shall guarantee to every state in
this union a republican form of government, and shall protect
each of them against invasion; and, on application of the legislature, or of the executive (when the legislature can not be
convened,) against domestic violence.
ARTICLE V.
The congress, whenever two-thirds of both houses shall deem
it necessary, shall propose amendments to this constitution, or,
on the application of the legislatures of two-thirds of the several states, shall call a convention for proposing amendments,
which, in either case, shall be valid to all intents and purposes,
as part of this constitution, when ratified by the legislatures of
three-fourths of the several states, or by conventions in threefourths thereof, as the one or the other mode of ratification may
be proposed by the congress; Provided, that no amendment
which may be made prior to the year one thousand eight hundred and eight, shall in any manner affect the first and fourth
clauses in the ninth section of the first article; and that no state,
without its consent, shall be deprived of its equal suffrage in the
senate.




124                   CONSTITUTION.
ARTICLE VI.
All debts contracted and engagements entered into before the
adoption of this constitution, shall be as valid against the United
States, under this constitution, as under the confederation.
This constitution and the laws of the United States, which
shall be made in pursuance thereof; and all treaties made, or
which shall be made, under the authority of the United States,
shall be the supreme law of the land; and the judges in every
state shall be bound thereby, any thing in the constitution or
laws of any state to the contrary notwithstanding.
The senators and representatives before mentioned, and the
members of the several state legislatures, and all executive and
judicial officers, both of the United States and of the several
states, shall be bound by oath or affirmation to support this
constitution; but no religious test shall ever be required as a
qualification to any office or public trust under the United States.
ARTICLE VII.
The ratification of the conventions of nine states shall be
sufficient for the establishment of this constitution between the
states so ratifying the same.
Done in convention, by the unanimous consent of the states
present, the seventeenth day of September, in the year of our
Lord one thousand seven hundred and eighty-seven, and of the
independence of the United States of America the twelfth. In
witness whereof, we have hereunto subscribed our names.
GEORGE WASHINGTON,
President and Deputy from  Virginia.
New Hampshire.
JOHN LANGDON,                NICHOLAS GILMAN.
Jlassachusetts.
NATHANIEL GORHIAM,           RUFUS KING.
Connecticut.
WILLIAM SAMUEL JOHNSON,      ROGER SHERMAN.
New  York.
ALEXANDER HAMILTON.
New Jersey.
WILLIAM LIVINGSTON,          DAVID BREARLEY,
WILLIAM PATTERSON,           JONATHAN DAYTON.




AMENDMENTS.                      125
Pennsylvania.
BENJAMIN FRANKLIN,           THOMAS MIFFLIN,
ROBERT MORRIS,               GEORGE CLYMER,
THOMAS FITZSIMONS,           JARED INGERSOLL,
JAMES WILSON,                GOUVERNEUR MORRIS.
Delaware.
GEORGE READ,                 GUNNING BEDFORD, JR.,
JOHN DICKINSON,              RICHARD BASSETT,
JACOB BROOM.
Maryland.
JAMES M'HENRY,               DANIEL OF ST. THOMAS JENIFER,
DANIEL CARROLL.
Virginia.
JOHN BLAIR,                  JAMES MADISON, JR.
North Carolina.
WILLIAM BLOUNT,              RICHARD DOBBS SPAIGHT,
HUGH WILLIAMSON.
South Carolina.
JOHN RUTLEDGE,               CHARLES COTESWORTH PINCKNEY,
CHARLES PINCKNEY,            PIERCE BUTLER.
Georgia.
WILLIAM FEW,                 ABRAHAM BALDWIN.
Attest:           WILLIAM  JACKSON, Secretary.
AMENDMENTS
To the Constitution of the United States, ratified according to
the Provisions of the Fifth Article of the foregoing Constitution.
ARTICLE I.
Congress shall make no law respecting an establishment of
religion, or prohibiting the free exercise thereof; or abridging
the freedom of speech, or of the press; or the right of the people peaceably to assemble, and to petition the government for
redress of grievances.
ARTICLE II.
A well-regulated militia, being necessary to the security of a
free state, the right of the people to keep and bear arms, shall
not be infringed.




126                   CONSTITUTIONAL
ARTICLE III.
No soldier shall, in time of peace be quartered in any house,
without the consent of the owner, nor in time of war, but in a
manner to be prescribed by law.
ARTICLE IV.
The right of the people to be secure in their persons, houses,
papers, and effects, against unreasonable searches and seizures,
shall not be violated, and no warrants shall issue, but upon
probable cause, supported by oath or affirmation, and particularly describing the place to be searched, and the persons or
things to be seized.
ARTICLE V.
No person shall be held to answer for a capital, or otherwise
infamous crime, unless on a presentment or indictment of a grand
jury, except in cases arising in the land or naval forces, or in
the militia, when in actual service in time of war and public
danger; nor shall any person be subject for the same offense to
be twice put in jeopardy of life or limb; nor shall be compelled
in any criminal case to be a witness against himself, nor to be
deprived of life, liberty, or property, without due process of
law; nor shall private property be taken for public use, without
just compensation.
ARTICLE VI.
In all criminal prosecutions, the accused shall enjoy the right
to a speedy and public trial, by an impartial jury of the state
and district wherein the crime shall have been committed, which
district shall have been previously ascertained by law, and to be
informed of the nature and cause of the accusation; to be confronted with the witnesses against him; to have compulsory
process for obtaining witnesses in his favor, and to have the
assistance of counsel for his defense.
ARTICLE VII.
In suits at common law, where the value in controversy shall
exceed twenty dollars, the right of trial by jury shall be




AMENDMENTS.                      127
preserved, and no fact tried by a jury shall be otherwise re-examined in any court of the United States, than according to the
rules of common law.
ARTICLE VIII.
Excessive bail shall not be required, nor excessive fines imposed, nor cruel and unusual punishments inflicted.
ARTICLE IX.
The enumeration in the constitution, of certain rights, shall
not be construed to deny or disparage others retained by the
people.
ARTICLE X.
The powers not delegated to the United States by the constitution, nor prohibited by it to the states, are reserved to the
states respectively, or to the people.
ARTICLE XI.
The judicial power of the United States shall not be construed
to extend to any suit in law or equity, commenced or prosecuted
against one of the United States by citizens of another state, or
by citizens or subjects of any foreign state.
ARTICLE XII.
The electors shall meet in their respective states, and vote by
ballot for president and vice-president, one of whom, at least,
shall not be an inhabitant of the same state with themselves;
they shall name in their ballots theIerson voted for as president, and in distinct ballots the person voted for as vice-president, and they shall make distinct lists of all persons voted for
as president, and of all persons voted for as vice-president, and
of the number of votes for each, which lists they shall sign and
certify, and transmit sealed to the seat of the government of the
United States, directed to the president of the senate; the
president of the senate shall, in the presence of the senate and
house of representatives, open all the certificates, and the votes
shall then be counted; —the person having the greatest number
of votes for president, shall be the president, if such number be
a majority of the whole number of electors appointed; and if




128                  CONSTITUTIONAL
no person have such majority, then from the persons having the
highest numbers not exceeding three on the list of those voted
for as president, the house of representatives shall choose immediately, by ballot, the president. But in choosing the president,
the votes shall be taken by states, the representation from each,state having one vote; a quorum for this purpose shall consist
of a member or members from two-thirds of the states, and a
majority of all the states shall be necessary to a choice. And
if the house of representatives shall not choose a president
whenever the right of choice shall devolve upon them, before the
fourth day of March next following, then the vice-president
shall act as president, as in the case of the death or other constitutional disability of the president. The person having the
greatest number of votes as vice-president, shall be the vicepresident, if such number be a majority of the whole number of
electors appointed, and if no person have a majority, then from
the two highest numbers on the list, the senate shall choose the
vice-president; a quorum for the purpose shall consist of twothirds of the whole number of senators, and a majority of the
whole number shall be necessary to a choice. But no person
constitutionally ineligible to the office of president shall be eligible to that of vice-president of the United States.
ARTICLE XIII.
SECTION 1. Neither slavery nor involuntary servitude, except
as a punishment for crime whereof the party shall have been
duly convicted, shall exist within the United States, or any place
subject to their jurisdiction.
SEC. 2. Congress shall have power to enforce the article by
appropriate legislation.
ARTICLE XIV.
SECTION 1. All persons born or naturalized in the United
States and subject to the jurisdiction thereof, are citizens of the
United States and of the state wherein they reside. No state
shall make or enforce any law which shall abridge the privileges
or immunities of citizens of the United States; nor shall any




AMENDMENTS.                     129
state deprive any person of life, liberty, or property, without
due process of law, nor deny to any person within its jurisdiction the equal protection of the laws.
SEC. 2. Representatives shall be apportioned among the
several states according to their respective numbers, counting
the whole number of persons in each state, excluding Indians
not taxed. But when the right to vote at any election for the
choice of electors for president and vice president of the United
States, representatives in congress, the executive and judicial
officers of a state, or the members of the legislature thereof, is
denied to any of the male inhabitants of such state, being twentyone years of age and citizens of the United States, or in any
way abridged, except for participation in rebellion or other
crime, the basis of representation therein shall be reduced in proportion which the number of such male citizens shall bear to the
whole number of male citizens twenty-one years of age in such
state.
SEC. 3. No person shall be a senator or representative in
congress, or elector of president and vice president, or hold any
office, civil or military, under the United States or under any
state, who, having previously taken an oath, as a member of
congress, or as an officer of the United States, or as a member
of any state legislature, or as an executive or judicial officer of
any state, to support the constitution of the United States, shall
have engaged in insurrection or rebellion against the same, or
given aid and comfort to the enemies thereof. But congress
may, by a vote of two-thirds of each house, remove such disability.
SEC. 4. The validity of the public debt of the United States
authorized by law, including debts incurred for payment of pensions and bounties for services in suppressing insurrection and
rebellion, shall not be questioned. But neither the United
States nor any state shall assume or pay any debt or obligation
incurred in aid of insurrection or rebellion against the United
States, or any claim for the loss or emancipation of any slave;
but all such debts, obligations or claims shall be held illegal and
void.
9




130                    AMENDMENTS.
SEC. 5. The congress shall have power to enforce, by appropriate legislation, the provisions of this article.
ARTICLE XV.
SECTION. 1. The right of the citizens of the United States
to vote shall not be denied or abridged by the United States or
by any state on account of race, color, or previous condition of
servitude.
SEC. 2. The Congress shall have power to enforce this article by appropriate legislation.
Twenty-one states have now (November 1st, 1869,) given
their sanction to the fifteenth amendment.  Seven more are
required to make it a part of the constitution of the United
States.




CHAPTER XIII.
THE EMANCIPATION PROCLAMATIONS
OF SEPTEMBER, 1862, AND JANUARY, 1863.
"On the 22nd of September, 1862, Mr. Lincoln issued one
of the two most important proclamations ever penned by a president of the United States: that which announced to the negroes
held as slaves in the rebellious states that on and after the first
day of the new year, they should be forever released from bondage. This great document, which was read with joy by the loyal
residents of the north, and which was a source of such infinite
happiness to the unfortunate class of beings who were to be
more particularly affected by its provisions, was as follows:
"I, Abraham  Lincoln, president of the United States of
America, and commander-in-chief of the army and navy thereof,
do hereby proclaim and declare, that hereafter, as heretofore,
the war will be prosecuted for the object of practically restoring
the constitutional relation between the United States and the
people thereof in those states in which that relation is, or may
be, suspended or disturbed; that it is my purpose upon the next
meeting of congress to again recommend the adoption of a practical measure tending pecuniary aid to the free acceptance or
rejection of all the slave states, so-called, the people whereof
may not then be in rebellion against the United States, and
which states may then have voluntarily adopted, or thereafter
may voluntarily adopt, the immediate or gradual abolishment of
slavery within their respective limits, and that the effort to colonize persons of African descent, with their consent, upon the
continent or elsewhere, with the previously obtained consent of
the government existing there, will be continued; that on the
first day of January, in the year of our Lord one thousand eight
hundred and- sixty-three, all persons held as slaves within any
state, or any designated part of a state, the people whereof'




132                    EMANCIPATION
shall then be in rebellion against the United States, shall be
then, thenceforward and forever, free, and the executive government of the United States, including the military and naval
authority thereof, will recognize and maintain the freedom of
such persons, and will do no act or acts to repress such persons,
or any of them, in any efforts they may make for their actual
-freedom; that the executive will, on the first day of January
aforesaid, by proclamation, designate the states and parts of
states, if any, in which the people thereof respectively shall then
be in rebellion against the United States; and the fact that any
state, or the people thereof, shall on that day be in good faith
represented in the congress of the United States by members
chosen thereto, at elections wherein a majority of the qualified
voters of such state shall have participated, shall, in the absence
of strong countervailing testimony, be deemed conclusive evidence that such state and the people thereof have not been in
rebellion against the United States.
" That attention is hereby called to an act of congress entitled'An act to make an additional article of war,' approved
March 13, 1862, and which act is in the words and figures following:
"' Be it enacted by the Senate and Hcouse of Representatives
of the United Sftates of America, in Congress assembled, That
hereafter the following shall be promulgated as an additional
article of war for the government of the army of the United
States, and shall be observed and obeyed as such.
"' ARTICLE -. All officers or persons of the military or naval
service of the United States, are prohibited from employing any
of the forces under their respective commands for the purpose
of returning fugitives from  service or labor, who may have
escaped from any persons to whom such service or labor is
claimed to be due, and any officer who shall be found guilty by
a court martial of violating this article, shall be dismissed from
the service.
"' SEC. 2.  And be it further enacted, That this act shall take
effect from and after its passage.'




PROCLAMATIONS.                   133
"Also to the ninth and tenth sections of an act entitled,'An
act to suppress insurrection, to punish treason and rebellion, to
seize and confiscate property of rebels, and for other purposes,
approved July 17, 1862, and which sections are in Ihe words
and figures following:
"' SEC. 9. And be it further enacted, That all slaves of persons who shall hereafter be engaged in rebellion against the government of the United States, or who shall in any way give aid
or comfort thereto, escaping from such persons and taking refuge
within the lines of the army; and all slaves captured from such
persons or deserted by them, and coming under the control of
the government of the United States, and all slaves of such persons found on (or being within) any place occupied by rebel
forces and afterwards occupied by the forces of the United States,
shall be deemed captives of war, and shall be forever free of
their servitude and not again held as slaves.
"' SEC. 10. And be it further enacted, That no slave escaping into any state, territory, or the district of Columbia, from
any of the states, shall be delivered up, or in any way impeded
or hindered of his liberty, except for crime, or some offense
against the laws, unless the person claiming said fugitive shall
first make oath that the person to whom the labor or service of
such fugitive is alleged to be due, is his lawful owner, and. has
not been in arms against the United States in the present rebellion, nor in any way given aid and comfort thereto; and no
person engaged in the military or naval service of the United
States shall, under any pretence whatever, assume to decide on
the validity of the claim of any person to the service or labor of
any other person, or surrender up any such person to the claimant, on pain of being dismissed from the service.'
"And I do hereby enjoin upon, and order all persons engaged
in the military and naval service of the United States to observe,
obey and enforce within their respective spheres of service the
act and sections above recited.
" And the executive will in due time recommend that all citizens of the United States who shall have remained loyal thereto




134                   EMANCIPATION
throughout the rebellion, shall (upon the restoration of the con-,stitutional relation between the United States and their respective States and people, if the relation shall have been suspended
or disturbed) be compensated for all losses by acts of the United
States, including the loss of slaves.
"1In witness whereof, I have hereunto set my hand and caused
the seal of the United States to be affixed.
"Done at the city of Washington, this twenty-second day of
September, in the year of our Lord one thousand eight hundred
and sixty-two, and of the independence of the United States
the eighty-seventh.
"By the President:       "ABRAHAM  LINCOLN.
"'WM. H. SEWARD, Secretary of State."
" Such a bold movement was necessarily distasteful to the
traitors, and while the southern journals pronounced it to be a
bid for the slaves to rise in insurrection, a bid which none but
a barbarian would devise, it was denounced in the Richmond
congress, and a resolution was there offered, exhorting the people to slay every union soldier and raider found within their
borders, and offering a reward to every negro, who would, after
the first of January, 1863, kill a unionist.
"The other important proclamation was issued on the first of
January, 1863, and was worded as follows:' Whereas, on the twenty-second day of September, in the
year of our Lord one thousand eight hundred and sixty-two, a
proclamation was issued by the president of the United States,
containing among other things the following, to wit:
" That on the first day of January, in the year of our Lord
one thousand eight hundred and sixty-three, all persons held as
slaves within any state, or designated part of a state, the people
whereof shall then be in rebellion against the United States,
shall be then, thenceforth and forever free, and the executive
government of the United States, including the military and
naval authorities thereof, will recognize and maintain the freedom of such persons, and will do no act or acts to repress such




PROCLAMATIONS.                   135
persons, or any of them, in any efforts they may make for their
actual freedom.
" That the executive will, on the first day of January aforesaid, by proclamation, designate the states and parts of states,
if any, in which the people therein respectively shall then be in
rebellion against the United States, and the fact that any state,
or the people thereof, shall on that day be in good faith represented in the congress of the United States by members chosen
thereto, at elections wherein a majority of the qualified voters
of such states shall have participated, shall, in the absence of
strong countervailing testimony, be deemed conclusive evidence
that such state and the people thereof are not then in rebellion
against the United States.'" Now, therefore, I, Abraham Lincoln, president of the United
States, by virtue of the power in me vested as commander-inchief of the army and navy of the United States in time of
actual armed rebellion against the authority and government
of the United States, and as a fit and necessary war measure
for suppressing said rebellion, do, on this first day of January,
in the year of our Lord one thousand eight hundred and sixtythree, and in accordance with my purpose so to do, publicly
proclaimed for the full period of one hundred days from the
day of the first above-mentioned order, and designate, as the
states and parts of states wherein the people thereof respectively are this day in rebellion against the United States, the
following to-wit:  Arkansas, Texas, Louisiana, except the parishes of St. Bernard, Plaquemines, Jefferson, St. John, St.
Charles, St. James, Ascension, Assumption, Terre Bonne, La
fourche, St. Mary, St. Martin and Orleans, including the city of
New Orleans.  Mississippi, Alabama, Florida, Georgia, South
Carolina, North Carolina, and Virginia, except the forty-eight
counties designated as West Virginia, and also the counties of
Berkeley, Accomac, Northampton, Elizabeth City, York, Princess Ann, and Norfolk, including the cities of Norfolk and
Portsmouth, and which excepted parts are, for the present, left
precisely as if this proclamation were not issued.




136                  PROCLAMATIONS.
" And by virtue of the power and for the purpose aforesaid, I
do order and declare that all persons held as slaves within said
designated states, and parts of states are, and henceforward shall
be free; and that the executive government of the United
States, including the military and naval authorities thereof, will
recognize and maintain the freedom of said persons.'And I hereby enjoin upon the people so declared to be free,
to abstain from all violence, unless in necessary self-defense,
and I recommend to them, that in all cases, when allowed, they
labor faithfully for reasonable wages.
" And I further declare and make known that such persons of
suitable condition will be received into the armed service of the
United States to garrison forts, positions, stations, and other
places, and to man vessels of all sorts in said service.
"And upon this, sincerely believed to be an act of justice,
warranted by the constitution, upon military necessity, I invoke
the considerate judgment of mankind and the gracious favor of
Almighty God.
" In witness whereof, I have hereunto set my hand and caused
the seal of the United States to be affixed.
"Done at the city of Washington, this first day of
January, in the year of our Lord one thousand eight
[L. S.] hundred and sixty-three, and of the Independence of
the United States of America the eighty-seventh.
"By the President:       "ABRAHAM  LINCOLN.
"WILLIAM H-. SEWARD, Secretary of State."




GEOGRAPHICAL HISTOR
OF THE
UNITED STATES.








CHAPTER I.
NEW ENGLAND STATES.
MAINE.
Maine, the most eastern of the United States, and by far the
largest of the New England States, lies between latitude 420
57' and 470 32' N., and longitude 660 52' and 710 6' W. It
is bounded on the north by Canada East; on the south by the
Atlantic Ocean; on the east by New Brunswick and Passamaquoddy Bay; and on the west by New Hampshire and Canada
East. Its greatest length from north to south is 303 miles;
from  east to west, 212 miles; area, 31,766 square miles, or
20,330,240 acres. In 1860, only about one-eighth of this vast
territory, or about 2,704,133 acres, was under cultivation.
Maine, as a general thing, is hilly and mountainous, and has
its culminating point at Mount Katahdin, at an altitude of
5,385 feet. A broken range of mountains, supposed to be a
continuation of the White Mountains of New Hampshire, extends across the state in a north-easterly direction, and terminates
with Mars tlill, in Aroostook county, about one mile from the
eastern boundary of the state.  This mountain chain forms the
water-shed between the basin of the St. Johns river and the
Atlantic ocean.  Extensive quarries of granite, of the finest
quality, are found upon the coast; and in the interior are metamorphic rocks and minerals. The coast line is very irregular,
being indented with numerous bays, which receive some of the
largest rivers of New England.  Passamaquoddy, the largest
bay, is at the south-eastern extremity of the state. It is fifteen
miles long, and ten miles wide, and is entered by three passages.
The other principal indentations are Englishman's, Frenchman's,
Penobscot and Casco bays. The principal rivers are Penobscot,
Kennebec, Androscoggin and Saco. The Penobscot is the largest, and is formed by the junction of the Seboois river with the




140               NEW ENGLAND STATES.
West Branch.  The extreme length of the river is above 300
miles, and it has a course, after its junction with the Seboois, of
135 miles. The western branch rises in the extreme western
part of the state, at the foot of the Green mountains, and in
its course drains the Chesuncook and Bamedumpok lakes. At
Bangor, 58 miles from the mouth of the river, vessels of the
largest size are received. The source of the Kennebec river is
Moosehead lake, which is about 1,000 feet above the level of the
sea. It has a length of 160 miles, and receives the waters of
the Dead and Sebasticook rivers. The Androscoggin river originates in Coos county, New Hampshire, in Umbagog lake, and,
after a very irregular course of about 150 miles, enters the Kennebec, about 20 miles above the mouth of the latter river. The
Saco river rises among the White mountains, in the southern
part of Coos county, New Hampshire, and, after flowing in a
south-easterly direction, through Maine, enters the Atlantic in
York county. The St. John river separates Maine from Canada East, and the St. Croix partially separates the same state
from New Brunswick.
No other state in the union contains so great a number of
beautiful lakes, as Maine. Of these, Moosehead, in a wild and
picturesque region, lying between the counties of Somerset and
Piscataquis, is the largest. It is 35 miles long and 10 miles
broad. There is a steamboat upon the lake, used to convey
lumber to the Kennebec river. The water is deep, and abounds
with fish, among which trout are conspicuous.  Chesumcook
lake, 26 miles long and four miles broad, is merely an expansion
of the Penobscot river. Schoodic lakes are two beautiful sheets
of water in Washington county, drained by an affluent of the
St. Croix river.
On the south-eastern coast of the state are a number of
islands, of which the principal are Fox islands, and Grand Menan and Mount Desert Islands.  The latter, in Frenchman's
bay, is 15 miles long and 11 miles broad. The inhabitants,
numbering more than 200, are chiefly engaged in shipping and
fisheries.




NEW ENGLAND STATES.                 141
Maine has extensive forests of pine, spruce, hemlock, and
maple, and it is estimated that one-third of the ships of America
are built in this state.  The white and red oak abound in the
vicinity of the coast; and in the districts at the headwaters of
the Kennebec and Penobscot, are found the pine and spruce.
Butternut and white walnut are scarce, but maple, birch and
ash grow in abundance.  The mineral productions of Maine are
not very extensive. Considerable iron is found upon the Aroostook river, and small quantities of copper and lead are found in
the vicinity of Dexter and Lubec. Large quantities of slate
are found between the Kennebec and St. Johns rivers.
The climate of Maine is extremely regular, the temperature
ranging from 30~ below zero to 1000 above. The soil in the
mountainous regions, and in districts bordering upon the southli
eastern coast, is poor, and wholly unadapted to cultivation.
The most fertile portions of the country comprise the basin of
the St. John's river, and the territory lying between the Kennebec and Penobscot rivers. The staple products are corn, rye,
barley, buckwheat, beans, potatoes, oats and hay. Wheat is
produced, though in limited quantities. Hops and flax are also
cultivated, and large quantities of maple sugar are manufactured.
No other state in the union has as great a number of good
harbors, or affords such natural advantages for commerce, as
Maine. The length of the coast, in a direct line, is 278 miles.
Considering the irregularity of the coast, and following the same
in all its windings, the former length is increased three times.
The most of the rivers flowing into the Atlantic are safe for the
largest vessels, from ten to fifty miles from the ocean. Lumber,
which is produced by means of these rivers, is the chief export.
The lumber produced in 1860 was valued at $6,598,565. In
1863 the exports amounted to $7,016,342; imports $3,911,468.
The increase of exports of the latter year over 1862 was over
$1,500,000.
AUGUSTA
Is the capital, and Portland and Bangor the largest cities of
the state. Augusta is the seat of justice of Kennebec county,




142                NEW ENGLAND STATES.
and is sixty miles north-east of Portland, on both sides of the
Kennebec, about forty-five miles from the mouth of that river.
The business portion of the city lies under an elevation, which
rises a short distance from the river.  On the summit of this
elevation are a number of hotels, and a large portion of the city
residences.  The state house, in the southern portion of the
city, is an imposing building, of light granite construction, in
front of which is a spacious park, containing ornamental trees
and flowers, and intersected with gravel walks.  Augusta contains twelve churches, ten hotels, six banks, several public
schools, and a female academy.  A dam, five hundred and ninety feet long, has been constructed across the river, in the northern limits of the city, which greatly improves the navigation
above, and affords immense hydraulic power to the manufactories and foundries below.  A passenger and railroad bridge
span the river, about one-fourth of a mile apart, the former
being five hundred and the latter nine hundred feet long. The
Portland and Kennebec railroad passes through Augusta, and
terminates at Waterville.  Population in 1860, 7,609.
PORTLAND,
The capital of Cumberland county, is on the eastern side of
Casco bay, one hundred and five miles north-east of Boston,
two hundred and ninety-two miles south-east of Montreal, and
three hundred and seventeen miles in the same direction from
Quebec.  It is the largest city of Maine, and is the southern
terminus of the Atlantic and St. Lawrence railroad.  Its site is
a hilly peninsula, about three miles long, and averaging threefourths of a mile in breadth.  The harbor, nearly surrounded
by land, is one of the finest in the world, being of sufficient
depth to receive the largest vessels, and guarded at its principal
entrance by several strong fortresses.  Portland is finely laid off,
and contains a large number of handsome buildings, generally
constructed of brick.  Congress street, extending from Munjoy's to Bramhill's, the former on the eastern, and the latter on
the western side of the peninsula, is the principal thoroughfare
of the city.




NEW ENGLAND STATES.                 143
The most prominent public building of the city is the city hall,
erected in 1859.  The building, of dark sandstone construction,
is surmounted by a lofty dome. The other principal buildings
are the custom house, mechanics' hall, a natural history building,
mercantile association and Maine charitable mechanics' association buildings, and a large number of churches. Portland is
rich in commerce and manufactures.  Her exports for the year
1864 amounted to $3,824,591; imports $3,018,063. The city
is extensively engaged in ship building, and contains manufactories of locomotives, railway carriages, &c. Portland has an
abundant supply of pure water, and is lighted with gas. Population in 1860, 26,342.
BANGOR,
The capital of Penobscot county, is sixty-six miles north-east
of Augusta, and one hundred and twenty-six miles in the same
direction from Portland.  It is on the right bank of the Perobscot, and on both sides of the Kenduskeig, which enters the
former river about sixty miles from the ocean. A bridge, one
thousand three hundred and twenty feet long, extends to Brewer,
on the opposite bank of the river, and a short distance below is
the Portland harbor, five hundred yards long, and deep enough,
at high water, to receive the largest ships.  The city has a
pleasant location, commanding a fine view of the river and surrounding country.  Bangor has a large number of hotels, colleges, and churches.  A first class hotel, called the Bangor
house, is probably inferior to none in the state.  The city contains four large foundries, four steam furniture manufactories,
a large number of steam sawing and planing mills, fifteen banks,
twelve churches, and a theological seminary. Bangor has railway communications with Old Town, and cities on the Penobscot
and Kennebec railroad. Population in-1860, 16,407.
Main has six hundred miles of railroad, sixty-nine banks, and
four thousand five hundred public schools. The latter are supported by money arising from the sale of public lands, and a tax
of one-half of one per cent. on the capital of banks. The state
also contains three colleges, twelve hundred churches, and forty



144               NEW ENGLAND STATES.
nine periodical publications. The government consists of a governor, senate, and house of representatives. Excepting criminals and paupers, persons have the right of suffrage after residing
in the country three months. Maine sends six members to congress, and is entitled to eight electoral votes for president.
NEW HAMPSHIRE.
New Hampshire, one of the original thirteen United States,
and next to Maine, the largest of the New England states, lies
between latitude 42~ 41' and 450 11' N., and longitude 700 40'
and 72~ 28' W. It is bounded on the north by Canada East,
on the south by Massachusetts, on the east by Maine and the
Atlantic ocean, and on the west by Vermont and Canada East.
Its greatest length from north to south is one hundred and seventy-six miles; width, forty-five miles; area, nine thousand two
hundred and eighty square miles, or five million nine hundred
and thirty-nine thousand two hundred acres. New Hampshire
is often called the " Granite State," on account of the abundance of that mineral. From the magnificent scenery of the
White mountains, it is also styled the "Switzerland of America."
With the exception of a small district in the south-eastern
portion of the state, the country is hilly and mountainous. The
White mountains extend nearly across the state from north to
south. They commence near the head waters of the Aroostook
river, in Maine, and reach their culminating in Coos county,
New Hampshire. The base of the mountains is a broad platteau, from sixteen to eighteen hundred feet high. The White
mountains are more admired by travelers, and attract a larger
number of tourists than any other natural objects in the United
States, excepting Niagara.  The lofty mountains, wild valleys,
beautiful lakes, grand cascades and torrents, alike contribute
beauty and grandeur to this delightful region. Twenty bold
peaks, with deep, narrow gorges, rise abruptly to the hight of
five thousand feet. Mount Washington, the highest summit, and
culminating point of New England, is eighty-five miles north of
Concord, in Coos county, and has an altitude of six thousand




NEW ENGLAND STATES.                 145
two hundred and eighty-five feet. The sides, which are remarkably steep, are covered for about three-fourths of the distance
from the base to the summit, with a thick growth of trees. The
upper part has a conical form, and is frequently enveloped in
mist and fog. Mount Adams, next in hight to Mount Washington, is in the same county, and has an altitude of five thousand
seven hundred and fifty-nine feet. Mount Jefferson, directly
north of Mount Washington, between the latter peak and Mount
Adams, has an altitude of five thousand six hundred and fiftyseven feet. Mount Lafayette is a peak of the Franconia range,
in Grafton county, seventy-five miles north-west of Concord.
Right, five thousand five hundred feet. Immediately across the
valley is Profile or Cannon mountain, which is covered with
dense forests, till you arrive in the vicinity of the summit. This
peak, though exceeded in hight by the surrounding mountains,
is none the less interesting. At the foot of this mountain, near
the Franconia notch, is the Profile house, a favorite resort of
tourists.
Other elevations of importance are Mount Madison, five thousand four hundred and fifteen feet high, Mount Monroe, five
thousand three hundred and forty-nine feet high, and Mount
Franklin four thousand eight hundred and fifty feet high.  (See
views of White mountains.) The principal elevations, independent of the main chain, are the Kearsarge mountains, in Merrimac county, two thousand four hundred and sixty-eight feet
high, and the Blue hills, in the south-eastern portion of the state,
one thousand one hundred and fifty-one feet high. The upper
portions of the former consist of bare granite rock.
The most important rivers of New Hampshire are the Connecticut and Merrimac.  The Connecticut has its source in a small
sheet of water, a few miles north of Connecticut lake. The
Merrimac river, formed by the confluence of the Pemigewasset
and Winnipiseogee rivers, flows first in a southerly, and, after
entering Massachusetts, in a north-easterly direction, and reaches
the Atlantic near Newburyport. Winnipiseogee, the principal
lake in the state, is drained by the river of the same name. This
large and beautiful sheet of water, lying between Carroll and
10




146               NEW ENGLAND STATES.
Belknap counties, is twenty-five miles long and ten miles wide.
Its multitude of islands, and irregular form, in connection with
the romantic beauty of the surrounding scenery, render it one of
the most pleasing places in the state. Its waters are very deep
and pure, and it is thought by some to rival Loch Lomond in
beauty.
The forest trees of New Hampshire are various.  On the
mountain slopes are vast forests of pine, which sometimes grow
over two hundred feet high. The other principal trees are the
oak, maple, spruce, beech and hemlock. The climate of New
Hampshire resembles that of Maine, the summers being short,
and the winters long and severe.
Though there are some fertile districts, the state, as a general
thing, is not adapted to agricultural pursuits. In 1860 there
were two hundred and thirty-eight thousand nine hundred and
sixty-six bushels of wheat, and one million four hundred and
fourteen thousand six hundred and twenty-eight bushels of corn
produced.
Concord is the capital.  Manchester and Portsmouth are the
principal towns.
CONCORD,
The capital of New Hampshire, and seat of justice of Merrimac county, is on the western bank of the Merrimac river, fiftynine miles north-west of Boston. The ground on which the city
is built is slightly elevated, and comprises a, district two miles
long, and three-fourths of a mile broad. Main street, the principMl thoroughfare, extends through the entire length of the city
from north to south, and contains the business houses, hotels,
churches, etc.  State street contains a Methodist general biblical
institute, and a huge state prison of granite construction.  The
state house is a hewn granite edifice, one hundred and twentysix feet long, forty-nine feet wide, and two stories high, standing
in the center of a common, finely ornamented with maple and
elm trees.  The falls in the Merrimac at Concord afford valuable water power to the foundries, mills, etc. The city contains nine churches, four newspaper offices, eight banks, and a
state lunatic asylum.  Population in 1860, 10,896.




NEW ENGLAND STATES.                 147
MANCHESTER,
A town of Iillsborough county, and chief city of New Hampshire, is on the eastern bank of the Merrimac river, eighteen
miles south-east of Concord, and fifty-nine miles north-west of
Boston. The city is finely laid off on an elevated plain ninetyfive feet above the river. The principal street is a mile and a
half long, and one hundred feet broad, and divides the city into
two nearly equal parts. The western portion of the city is
chiefly built of wood, and contains a number of handsome villas
and residences. The eastern portion, or the part bordering on
the river, is built almost wholly of brick, and contains the business establishments, hotels, etc. The most important buildings
are the town house, the different churches and public schools,
and the athenaeum.  The latter, established in 1844, has a free
reading room, and a library of thirty-five hundred volumes.
" The system of public instruction comprises a high school, two
grammar schools, an intermediate, six middle, and twelve primary schools, besides others not classed." The city is furnished
with gas by a company established in 1851, having a capital,
at the present time, amounting to about one hundred thousand
dollars.
Near Manchester the Merrimac has a descent of fifty feet,
called Amoskeag Falls, which, in connection with a dam a short
distance below, affords sufficient hydraulic power to run several
hundred thousand spindles.
The most important corporations of Manchester are the
Amoskeag manufacturing company, and the Stark mills, the
former employing twenty-five hundred persons, both male and
female, and producing daily sixty-five thousand yards of tickings,
drillings, sheetings, and pantaloon stuffs, and the latter twelve
hundred persons, and manufacturing daily thirty thousand yards
of sheetings, seventeen thousand yards of drilling, and upwards of
five thousand seamless bags.
The city contains twelve churches, ten newspaper publications,
five insurance companies, and four banks with a capital exceeding five hundred thousand dollars.  Population, 20,10T7.




148               NEW ENGLAND STATES.
PORTSMOUTH,
A city and semi-capital of Rockingham county, is on the southern bank of the Piscataqua river, three miles from its mouth,
and fifty-five miles north-east of Boston.  The site of the city is
a slightly elevated peninsula, formed by the Piscataqua river.
It is connected by bridges with Grand island and Kittery, directly opposite in Maine.  Prominent among the public buildings
are the state arsenal and athenaeum, the finest structures in the
city. The latter has a library of ten thousand choice volumes.
On an island facing the city is a United States navy yard, containing  "three immense ship houses, and a floating balance
dock, constructed at a cost of about eight hundred thousand
dollars."
Portsmouth is the only port of entry in the state.  The harbor,
having an average depth of about fifty-five feet, lies between the
city and the sea, and is large enough to accommodate upwards
of two thousand vessels. The city contains nine churches, four
newspaper publications, five banks, a large number of manufactories, and an excellent system of public schools. Population
in 1860, 9,335.
New Hampshire has forty-four cotton, sixty-one woollen, and
twenty-nine iron factories; a large number of paper mills, fiftyone banks, seven hundred churches, thirty-eight newspaper publications, and numerous and well conducted free schools. Population of the state in 1860, 326,073, of which 325,579 were
white, and 494 colored.
In New Hampshire the governor, senate, and house of representatives are elected annually.  The senate is composed of
twelve and the house of representatives of two hundred and
eighty-six members. The governor receives a salary of one
thousand dollars per annum.
VERMONT.
Vermont, one of the United States, and the first state admitted after the adoption of the federal constitution, lies between
latitude 42~ 44' and 450 N., and longitude 71~ 33t and 730 25t




NEW ENGLAND STATES.                 149
W. It is one hundred and fifty miles long, and from forty to
eighty-five miles wide, including an area of ten thousand two
hundred and twelve square miles, or six millions five hundred
and thirty-five thousand six hundred and eighty acres. It is
bounded on the north by Canada East, on the south by Massachusetts, on the east by the Connecticut river, which separates
Vermont from New Hampshire, and on the west by Lake Champlain and New York.
The surface of the country is hilly and mountainous. The
Green mountains traverse the entire length of the state from
north to south. In the southern part of the state they form a
single chain, but at Northfield, twelve miles south of Montpelier,
a range branches off in a north-easterly direction, and forms the
boundary line between Canada East and the states of Maine
and New Hampshire.  The highest peak is Mount Mansfield,
twenty-two miles north of Montpelier, having an altitude of four
thousand three hundred and fifty-nine feet.  The other peaks
range from a hight of two thousand to five thousand feet, and
are all covered with vegetation, and cultivated to their summits.
The principal rivers of Vermont are the Missisque, Lamoille,
Winooski, Otter, and Passumpsic.  The Missisque and Lamoille
rise among the mountains in Orleans county, and, after a course
of seventy-five and seventy miles, enter Lake Champlain, the
former in Missisque, and the latter in Chittenden county.  The
Winooski river rises in Washington county, and flows into Lake
Champlain, five miles west of Burlington.  At Winooski village,
near Burlington, the river has a fall of twenty feet. Lake Champlain separates Vermont from New York, for over one hundred
miles. Its entire. length is one hundred and thirty-five miles,
and it has a width varying from one to twelve miles. Its outline is very irregular, and its surface is diversified by numerous
beautiful islands. Its depth varies from fifty to three hundred
feet. Its waters are discharged into the St. Lawrence through
the Richelieu river. Vessels of the largest size navigate the
lake with perfect safety.  It is connected with the Hudson river
by the Champlain canal, thus establishing uninterrupted water




150               NEW ENGLAND STATES.
communication with the principal cities of New York. The lake
abounds with trout, salmon, pike, and other fish.
The Vermont side of the lake is extremely fertile, but on the
opposite shore the country is wild, rocky, and desolate.
Vermont shares Lake Memphremagog with Canada East.
This lake is about thirty miles long, and has a width varying
from one to five miles. About eight miles of its length is in
Orleans county, Vermont; the remainder is in Canada. Its
waters are discharged through Magog outlet, into the St. Francis river, and from thence into St. Peter's lake, an expansion of
the St. Lawrence river.
Vermont, though subject to severe weather, is one of the
healthiest states in the union.  The temperature ranges from
seventeen degrees below to ninety-two degrees above zero. The
country suffers from frost as early as the first of September,
though the weather does not become severe till December.
The best quality of iron ore is found along the western base
of the Green mountains, and considerable quantities of lead,
zinc and copper are found in different parts of the state. At
Rutland are rich quarries of statuary marble.  Small quantities
of gold have also been discovered. A lump weighing ten and a
half ounces was discovered in Newfane, in 1826. At the towns
of Bridgewater, Stowe, and Plymouth this precious ore is found.
The soil of Vermont is a rich marl, and produces Indian corn,
oats, wheat, rye, potatoes, and hops in great abundance.  The
mountainous district is covered with a heavy grass, affording
excellent pasturage for cattle. Among the forest trees are found
the hemlock, fir, spruce, oak, beech, sugar-maple, pine, hickory,
elm, butternut, birch, cedar, and basswood. Vermont has a
valuable lumber trade, and is extensively engaged in the manufacture of maple sugar. In 1860, there were two millions eight
hundred and twenty-three thousand one hundred and fifty-seven
acres of land under cultivation.
In manufactures, Vermont holds only a secondary rank among
the United States. The number of manufacturing establishments in the state in 1850, engaged in mining and the mechanical arts, numbered fourteen hundred and eighty-nine.




NEW ENGLAND STATES.                 151
The commerce of Vermont is carried on by means of Lake
Champlain. Her imports for the year 1862, amounted to two
millions five hundred and sixty-seven thousand eight hundred
and ninety-two dollars; exports, seven hundred and thirty-six
thousand six hundred and sixty-three dollars.
The state contains five hundred and fifty-six miles of railroad,
fifty woollen mills, ten cotton mills, five hundred and ninety-six
churches, one hundred and eighteen academies and high schools,
two thousand nine hundred and thirty-seven district free schools,
and thirty-six weekly and six daily newspapers.
Montpelier is the capital, and Burlington is the largest city.
MONTPELIER,
The capital, is the seat of justice of Washington county, on
the right bank of the Onion river, two hundred miles north-west
of Boston, on the Boston and St. Lawrence railroad.
The most important building is the state house, a rich granite,
edifice one hundred and fifty feet long, one hundred feet wide,
and surmounted by a dome, the top of which is one hundred feet
above the ground. Montpelier contains six churches, five newspaper offices, three banks, an academy, and several other schools.
Population in 1860, 2,411.
BURLINGTON,
The metropolis of Vermont, and seat of justice of Chittenden
county, is on Burlington bay, forty miles north-east of Montpelier. At the mouth of the bay, on Juniper island, is a light
house, erected by the United States government, and a breakwater to protect shipping. Burlington has excellent water communication by means of Lake Champlain, and is on railroad
lines leading to important cities of New England and Canada.
The Vermont university is located in the eastern suburbs of the
the town, on an elevation, two hundred and eighty-one feet above
the level of the sea. This institution, consisting of four buildings, was founded in 1791. The city has four newspapers offices,
four banks, several churches, and seven thousand three hundred
and seventy-five tons of shipping. In 1860 the inhabitants
numbered 7,713.




152               NEW ENGLAND STATES.
ST. JOHNSBURY,
An important town and capital of Caledonia county, Vermont, is thirty-six miles north-east of Montpelier, and fifty miles
east of Burlington. It is on the western bank of the Passumpsic river, which affords abundant water power for the mills and
manufactories in the town. It contains forty stores, and a manufactory for Fairbanks' scales. It has also four foundries with
machine shops, two banks, and a number of churches. Population 3,500. (See views of St. Johnsbury.)
St. Johnsbury Centre is two miles north of St. Johnsbury, on
the Passumpsic river, and Passumpsic river railroad. It contains
four churches, two carriage manufactories, and three mills.
Population 750. (See views of St. Johnsbury Centre.)
Waterford is a township of Caledonia county, about forty-five
miles north of Montpelier, intersected by the Connecticut river
and the Passumpsic river railroad. The surface is very uneven,
and is traversed by ridges of hills and cliffs.  (See views of
Waterford.)
The population of Vermont has a steady, though not rapid
increase. In 1790 the inhabitants numbered only eighty-five
thousand four hundred and sixteen. In 1860 the state had a
population of three hundred and fifteen thousand and ninetyeight, of which three hundred and fourteen thousand three hundred and eighty-nine were white, and seven hundred and nine
colored.  The government of the state is administered by a governor, lieutenant governor, senate and house of representatives.
The senate consists of thirty and the house of representatives of
two hundred and thirty members.  Vermont sends three members to the national house of representatives, and is entitled to
five electoral votes for president.
MASSACHUSETTS.
Massachusetts, one of the thirteen original United States, lies
between latitude 41~ 15' and 420 53' N., and longitude 690 56'
and 730 32' W. It is bounded on the north by Vermont and
New Hampshire; on the south by Connecticut, Rhode Island,,




NEW ENGLAND STATES.                153
Buzzard's Bay and Vineyard Sound; on the east by Cape Cod
Bay, Massachusetts Bay, and the Atlantic Ocean; and on the
west by New York. Its length from east to west is one hundred
and sixty miles; from north to south, forty-seven to one hundred and ten miles; area, seven thousand eight hundred square
miles, or four millions nine hundred and ninety-two thousand
acres.
In the western part of the state are the Green mountains,
and, scattered over the country, are solitary peaks, sometimes
attaining a great hight. Mounts Tom and Holyoke, on opposite sides of the Connecticut river, in lHampden county, are
isolated peaks, having respective hights of twelve hundred and
fourteen and nine hundred and thirty feet. Mount Wachusett,
in Worcester county, two thousand and eighteen feet high,
commands a brilliant prospect.  Saddle mountain, the culminating point of the state, is in Berkshire county, and has an altitude
of three thousand eight hundred feet. The north-eastern portion of the state is hilly, and the south-eastern low and sandy.
The western part of the state is remarkable for the variety
and beauty of its scenery. Berkshire county, in particular, deserves the attention of all lovers of the picturesque. It has an
area of one thousand square miles, and lies east of the Green
mountains, occupying the entire length of the state from north
to south. The surface is very uneven, and in some parts mountainous. Saddle mountain, in the northern, and Bald Peak, in
the southern part of the county, are the principal elevations.
Monument mountain, in the township of Stockbridge, has a bold
and rocky summit, and a perpendicular ascent of over two hundred feet, from  the valley below.  (See views of Monument
mountain.) A deep ravine, of great wildness, in the same township, called the Ice Glen, contains ice during the whole year.
(See views of the Ice Glen.) Among the other remarkable
natural objects of Berkshire county, may be mentioned the Falls
of the Housatonic, near Dalton; a rock in Marlborough, weighing nearly fifty tons, and so accurately balanced that it will
move, when slightly pressed; Hanging mountain, rising perpendicularly three hundred feet above the Farmington river; and




154               NEW ENGLAND STATES.
the Natural Bridge, on Hudson's brook, in North Adams. (See
views of Natural Bridge.)  At this point, a fissure, fifty feet
deep and five hundred feet long, has been worn through solid
rock, forming a bridge forty-seven feet above the water.
The principal rivers of the state, are the Connecticut, Merrimac and Housatonic.  The Merrimac has a course of forty
miles, in the state, and on its banks are the cities of Lowell,
Lawrence, Andover and Newburyport.  The falls and rapids of
both this river and the Connecticut, render navigation difficult,
but afford immense water-power for the manufacturing cities
through which they pass.
The soil and climate of Massachusetts are unfavorable for
agriculture. The south-eastern portion of the state is low and
sandy, and salt marshes abound near the coast. The western
half is the most productive, and in the Connecticut and Housatonic valleys there are extremely fertile districts. The staple
productions are, Indian corn, oats, potatoes, rye, buckwheat,
barley, fruits, hay, and maple sugar. In 1860, Massachusetts
produced one hundred and nineteen thousand seven hundred and
eighty-three bushels of wheat, two millions one hundred and fiftyseven thousand and sixty-three bushels of corn, three millions
two hundred and thirty-three thousand one hundred and ninetyeight pounds of tobacco, and three hundred and seventy-seven
thousand two hundred and sixty-seven pounds of wool.
In proportion to her size, Massachusetts holds the first rank
in the union as a manufacturing state.  According to the manufacturing statistics of 1860, there were eight thousand one
hundred and seventy-six establishments in the state, employing
a capital of one hundred and thirty-three millions of dollars.  The
value of her manufactures for the same year amounted to two
hundred and sixty-six millions of dollars. There are also in the
state one hundred and fifty woollen mills, three hundred cotton
mills, thirteen carpet mills, and many iron foundries and nail
factories.  The manufacture of boots and shoes alone amounts
to fifty millions of dollars a year.
In commercial importance, Massachusetts is second only to
New York.  Her principal exports are her manufactures, rocks




NEW ENGLAND STATES.                155
and ice. She is largely engaged in fisheries, which give employment to over thirty thousand persons. Boston exports an average of one hundred thousand tons of ice yearly. Granite and
iron are the most important mineral products. Mines of lead
were worked as early as 1765, at Northampton. Coal is found
in limited quantities in the vicinity of Mansfield.
Boston is the capital, and largest city of the state. Other
important cities are Lowell, Cambridge, Roxbury, Charlestown
and Worcester.
BOSTON,
The capital, is one of the oldest towns in the union, and, next
to New York, is the most important commercial city in the
United States. It is the capital of Suffolk county, and is situated at the western extremity of Massachusetts bay, four hundred and sixty-four miles northeast of Washington, and about
one-half of that distance from New York. The city is divided
into three parts, viz: Boston Proper, or Old Boston, East Boston and South Boston. A very hilly and uneven peninsula, of
five hundred acres, forms the site of Boston Proper, which is
connected with Roxbury by a narrow isthmus, about a mile and
a quarter long. This isthmus was formerly, during rainy weather, flooded with water, but it has recently been improved, and is
now traversed by several good roads. Boston is also connected
with the surrounding cities by a number of bridges, of which
the Charles river bridge, connecting the city with Charlestown;
Old Cambridge bridge, two thousand seven hundred and fiftyeight feet long, crossing the Charles river to Cambridge road;
South Boston bridge, one thousand five hundred and fifty feet
long, leading to South Boston; and Canal bridge, connecting
Boston with Letchmere Point, now Cambridge, are the most
important. South Boston is on the southern side of the harbor,
between Boston Proper and Fort Independence. East Boston,
the terminus of the Grand Junction Railroad, occupies about
six hundred and sixty acres of the western portion of Noddle's
Island.
Originally, the streets of Boston were narrow and crooked;
but much has recently been done to improve them. The most




156               NEW ENGLAND STATES.
important streets are Tremont and Washington. Some of the
fashionable promenades are bordered with beautiful elms, some
of which are over a century old. The Boston Common, an inclosure of fifty acres, in the western part of Old Boston, near
the Charles river, is one of the finest public parks in America.
It was formerly called " Tower's Field," and was used as a town
cow-pasture. In the center of the common is a pond, from
which spouts a large fountain, from fifty to sixty feet high. The
grounds are surrounded by an elegant and costly iron fence,
three hundred and sixty rods in length. Between the common
and the river is a botanic garden, covering twenty-five acres of
ground.
The state-house was built in 1798, and holds a conspicuous
place among the public buildings of the city. The building is
one hundred and seventy feet long, sixty-five feet wide, and is
surmounted by a dome thirty feet high, and one hundred and
twenty feet above the ground. On the entrance floor is a statue
of Washington, by Chaucer.  Faneuil Hall, the "1 Cradle of
Liberty," as it is called, is an object of much interest, as being
the place where the orators, in the days of Hancock and Adams,
roused the people to resistance against British oppression.
The Quincy Market, erected at a cost of one hullndred and
fifty thousand dollars, is five hundred feet long, fifty feet wide,
two stories high, and surmounted by a lofty dome. The City
Hall, erected in 1864 and 1865, is one of the handsomest buildings in the United States. It is constructed of granite, which
was brought from  Concord, New Hampshire, and cost the city
nearly six hundred thousand dollars. The Merchant's Exchange,
on State street, is two hundred and fifty feet long, seventy-five
feet broad, and cost one hundred and seventy-five thousand dollars.  "The front is composed of Quincy granite, with four
pilasters, each a single stone forty-five feet high, and weighing
about fifty-five tons."  In the Music Hall, on Winter street, is
the "Great Organ," the richest and most powerful instrument
of the kind ever constructed.  It was built at Ludwigslust,
Germany, and cost sixty thousand dollars. It is sixty feet high,




NEW ENGLAND STATES.                157
forty-eight feet wide, twenty-four feet deep, has eighty-nine stops,
and about six thousand pipes.
Prominent among the Boston hotels, is the Tremont house, a
first-class hotel on Tremont street. The Winthrop house is also
a fine hotel, on Tremont street.  The other principal hotels are
the Revere house, on Bowdoin square; the American house, on
Hanover street; and the Parker house.
Boston contains, also, a large number of libraries, the most
noted of which are the Boston Athenaeum, containing sixty
thousand volumes; the Massachusetts Historical Society, having
twelve thousand volumes; the American Academy of Arts and
Sciences, having fifteen thousand volumes; the Mercantile Library Association, thirteen thousand five hundred volumes; and
the State Library, having ten thousand volumes. The Public
Library building, erected in 1858, at a cost of three hundred
and sixty-three thousand six hundred and thirty-three dollars,
is directly opposite the Common, on Boylston street, and contains ninety-five thousand volumes.
Boston supports an immense foreign and domestic commerce.
Of the three thousand and eleven vessels that entered the port
of Boston during the year ending June 30, 1863, eight hundred
and thirty-six were American, and two thousand one hundred
and seventy-five foreign. Boston receives an abundant supply
of fresh water from Lake Cochituate, twenty miles west of the
city. The water is received in an immense reservoir in Brookline, by means of a brick water-pipe, from whence it is conveyed
to different reservoirs throughout the city. Boston contains one
hundred churches, and the same number of periodical publications.  Population, in 1860, one hundred and seventy-seven
thousand eight hundred and forty. (See views of Boston.)
LOWELL,
A city of Massachusetts, and, next to Boston, the largest in
the state, is at the junction of the Concord with the Merrimac
river, thirty miles north-west of Boston, and eight miles south
from the dividing line between New Hampshire and the state in




158               NEW ENGLAND STATES.
which it is situated. Five railroads, establishing an uninterrupted line of communication with cities on the sea coast, and
in the interior, have their terminus at Lowell. The city is regularly laid off, and contains three handsome public parks, or
commons as they are more commonly called. The streets are
very direct, and intersect each other at right angles.
The principal public buildings are the court house and county
jail, the former erected in 1851, at a cost of one hundred thousand dollars, the latter in 1855-56, at a cost of one hundred
and fifty thousand dollars.  Other noted edifices are Mechanics'
building, Huntington hall, and Wentworth's, Carlton, and Appleton blocks. The chief libraries of the city are the Merchants'
association and city library, the former containing nine thousand
and the latter twelve hundred volumes.
At Lowell the Merrimac river has a perpendicular pitch of
thirty-three feet, called the Pawtucket falls, which affords immense water power to this great manufacturing town.  Thirteen
manufacturing companies in Lowell, in 1864, had in their possession fifty-four mills, and employed a capital of thirteen millions eight hundred and fifty thousand dollars. Lowell has
thirty-two churches, forty-five primary, eight grammar, and one
high school, several private schools, seven banks, two insurance
companies, five newspaper offices, extensive manufactories of
of cotton and woollen goods, carpets, prints, etc., consuming
twenty-five millions pounds of cotton per annum; eleven machine
shops, six carriage manufactories, four lumber dealing firms,
four sash, door, and blind factories, and three paper mills.
"The sixth Massachusetts regiment, principally from Lowell,
was the first to enter the field in response to the call of President Lincoln, April 15th, 1861, for seventy-five thousand volunteers. The regiment left Lowell on the 16th; on the 19th was
attacked by a mob in Baltimore, and two of its members-Ladd
and Whitney-both of Lowell, were killed.  A monument to
these first martyrs of the great American rebellion, has been
erected in a public square in the heart of the city."  The population of Lowell has been greatly increased by foreign emigration. Population in 1860, 36,827.




NEW ENGLAND STATES.                 159
CAMBRIDGE,
An important city and semi-capital of Middlesex county, is on
the northern bank of the Charles river, three miles north-east of
Boston, with which city it is connected by water communication,
and by the old Cambridge and canal bridges.  Cambridge is
finely laid off, the streets being broad, and shaded with lofty and
majestic elms, some of which are nearly one hundred years old.
Cambridge is one of the oldest towns in the union, and is the
seat of Harvard university. (See views of university.) This
institution, founded in 1648, is the most interesting object connected with the town.  It was named in honor of Rev. John
Harvard, who bequeathed to it a legacy of seven hundred
and eighty-one pounds. Its present fund exceeds one million
dollars.  A law and theological school, and a medical college,
are connected with the university, and there is also a department for those wishing to enter upon a scientific course, independent of other branches.  Of the twenty-one buildings,
belonging to the university, twenty are in Cambridge, and one
in Grove street, Boston.  Cambridge contains twenty churches,
six banks, several hotels, the county buildings, post office, and a
large number of manufactories. Population, 26,060.
ROXBURY,
Is an important town of Massachusetts, in Norfolk county,
three miles south-west of Boston, on the Boston and Providence
railroad. It is connected with Boston by several stage roads
crossing the "Boston Neck."  The site of the city presents
every variety of surface, from the lofty hill, down to districts
nearly level with the sea. From the summit of many of these
hills, a good view can be obtained of the city of Boston, and
much of the surrounding scenery. Roxbury might justly be regarded as a suburb of Boston, being closely connected in wealth
and interest with that city. Many of the Boston business men
have beautiful residences in Roxbury.  Roxbury has manufactories of fire and steam engines, steam boilers, carpetings, fringe,
tassels, leather, etc. Population, 25,137.




160               NEW ENGLAND STATES.
CHARLESTOWN,
A city of Middlesex county,.is on the northern side of the
Charles river, directly opposite Boston. The peninsula on which
the city is built, formed by the confluence of the Mystic with
the Charles river, is, like most of the country in the vicinity,
rugged and hilly. Charlestown is connected with Boston and
Cambridge by the Prison Point bridge, which strikes the centre
of canal bridge, which connects the two former cities. The city
is finely built, having wide and shady streets, and many elegant
edifices. Main, Bunker Hill, and Medford, running north and
south, are the principal streets. The city contains four banks,
a huge state prison, with accommodations for five hundred convicts, and a United States navy yard, occupying eighty acres,
at the foot of Bunker Hill.  The dry dock, built at a cost of
six hundred and seventy thousand dollars, is at the upper end
of the yard. It is three hundred and forty-one feet long, eighty
feet wide, thirty feet deep, and constructed of granite.
" The chief object of interest, however, to persons visiting
Charlestown, is the Bunker Hill monument, erected in commemoration of the first great battle fought between the British and
Americans. It stands on Breed's Hill, usually called Bunker
Hill, near the spot where the brave Warren fell. Its foundations, which are fifty feet above the level of the sea, are enclosed
twelve feet under ground.  The corner stone was laid by Marquis de Lafayette, June 17th, 1825.  The fifteenth anniversary of
the battle, June 17th, 1843, the completion of the monument
was celebrated, in the presence of the president of the United
States, many of the members of his cabinet, and a vast concourse
of citizens. It consists of a plain granite shaft, two hundred
and twenty feet high, thirty-one feet square at the base, and
fifteen feet at the top. Within is a winding stairway, by which
it is ascended to a chamber immediately under the apex, eleven
feet in diameter, containing four windows, which afford a magnificent panoramic view of the surrounding country. In this
chamber are two of the four cannon which constituted the whole
train of field artillery possessed by the Americans at the commencement of the war, in April, 1775. These two pieces are




NEW ENGLAND STATES.                  161
named respectively Hancock and Adams." (See views of Bunker Hill.)
Mystic lake, five miles from the city, supplies Charlestown with
a stream of pure, fresh water. Population in 1860, 25,063.
WORCESTER
Is the seat of justice of Worcester county, forty-five miles
south-west of Boston.  It is on the northern bank of the Blackstone river, partially environed with beautiful hills, and is intersected by six important railways. Main street is the chief business thoroughfare, and contains the court house, churches, and
all the important public buildings of the city. The American
antiquarian society building is eighty feet long, fifty feet wide,
contains thirty-five thousand volumes, and "plaster casts of
Michael Angelo's celebrated statues of Christ and Moses."
Worcester contains eighteen churches, seven banks, five newspaper offices, six insurance companies, an excellent system of
schools, and a large number of rolling and woollen mills, foundries, etc. Population in 1860, 24,960.
In 1860 the population of Massachusetts was one million two
hundred and thirty-one thousand and sixty-six, of whom one
million two hundred and twenty-one thousand four hundred and
sixty-four were white, and nine thousand six hundred and two
were colored. The state contains one hundred and seventy-six
banks, sixteen hundred miles of railroad divided between fiftyone companies, sixteen hundred and thirty-six churches, twentytwo daily papers, two hundred and eighty-two periodical publications, four thousand four hundred and forty-four public schools,
seven hundred and fifty academies, four normal schools, five
colleges, and three lunatic asylums.
The governor of Massachusetts receives a salary of two thousand five hundred dollars per annum. The senate is composed
of forty and the house of representatives of three hundred and
fifty-six members.  Massachusetts is represented by eleven
members in the national house of representatives, and is entitled
to thirteen electoral votes for president.
11




162               NEW ENGLAND STATES.
CONNECTICUT.
Connecticut, one of the thirteen original United States, lies
between latitude 410 and 42~ 3' N., and longitude 71~ 55' and
730 50' W. It is bounded on the north by Massachusetts, on
the south by Long Island sound, on the east by Rhode Island,
and on the west by New York. It greatest length from north
to south is sixty-eight miles, from east to west about ninety-three
miles, including an area of four thousand six hundred and seventy-four square miles, or two millions nine hundred and ninetyone thousand three hundred and sixty acres.
The surface of Connecticut is greatly diversified by mountains
and hills. The Green mountains, which extend nearly across
the state, reach no great hight, and would more properly be
denominated hills. Many subordinate ridges are found between
the Connecticut and Housatonic, and east of the former river are
elevations supposed to be a part of the White mountain chain.
On either side of the Connecticut, near its mouth, are walls of
trap rock, through which the river, at some early period, has
worn for itself a channel.
The principal rivers of Connecticut are the Housatonic, Connecticut, and Thames.  The Housatonic rises in Berkshire
county, Massachusetts, and, after a southerly course of one
hundred and fifty miles, enters Long Island sound, fifteen miles
below Derby.  The river has a fall of one thousand feet from
its source to its mouth, which, though derogatory to navigation,
affords valuable water power to the numerous manufacturing
towns upon its banks.  The most beautiful descent of the river,
occurs between Falls village and Canaan, thirty-seven miles
north-east of New Haven.  (See views of the Housatonic.)  The
Connecticut river is safe for large vessels as far north as Middletown, and the Housatonic as far as Derby. The Thames traverses
the eastern portion of the state, and is navigable as far as Norwich, fourteen miles from its mouth.
In regard to climate, Connecticut ranks among the foremost
of the United States.  Her winters, like all of the New England
states, are generally severe, but her springs are earlier, and




NEW ENGLAND STATES.                 163
summers, owing to her proximity to the sea, less subject to intense heat. The soil, especially in the valleys of the Connecticut, Housatonic, and Thames, is exceedingly fertile. The beautiful valley of the Connecticut, called by the Indians "the
pleasant country," contains some of the oldest towns of the
United States. The western half of the state is devoted to
agriculture, the eastern chiefly to grazing and pasturage. The
staple productions are butter, cheese, wool, maize, oats, barley,
wheat, flax, hemp, and tobacco. Principal minerals, marble,
freestone, and iron.
The commerce and manufactures of Connecticut, though not
very large, are important. The value of the exports of the year
ending June 30th, 1861, amounted to four hundred and twentyone thousand three hundred and twenty dollars; imports, seven
hundred and fifty-three thousand three hundred and nine dollars.
According to the manufacturing statistics of the same year, the
capital invested amounted to forty-five millions seven hundred
and seventy thousand dollars; amount of the annual product,
eighty-three millions.
The capitals of the state are Hartford and New Haven.
Other important cities are Middletown, New London, and
Norwich.
NEW HAVEN,
A city and capital of a county of the same name, and semicapital of the state of Connecticut, is at the head of New Haven
bay, a branch of Long Island sound, seventy-six miles northeast of New York, and one hundred miles south-west of Boston.
The city is on a level and undulating plain, sloping gently
back from the sea. The scenery which surrounds New Haven
is in the highest degree picturesque and beautiful. On every
side, except where it is bordered by the sea, the city is surrounded by lofty, hills, two of which, one upon either side of the
town, have a perpendicular ascent of nearly four hundred feet,
and are called from their position, east and west rocks.  Chapel
street, the fashionable promenade of the city, extends in a northwesterly direction from Mill river, through the entire length
of the city.




164               NEW ENGLAND STATES.
In New Haven a neatness and regularity is observable, which
is rarely found in other cities. The city covers from six to seven
square miles, and is regularly laid off, the streets running in
parallel directions, and crossing each other at right angles.
Beautiful elms, lining the streets, and ornamenting public squares
and parks, are scattered throughout the city. From the great
abundance of these trees, New Haven is appropriately styled
the " City of Elms." In Temple street they are so numerous
and large that the rays of the sun seldom penetrate through the
mass of foliage to the walk beneath.  A succession of beautiful
residences on Hill House avenue are almost entirely hid from
view by the profusion of foliage and flowers. A public square
of sixteen acres, called the " Green," is one of the finest parks
in the United States.  Wooster and York are the other principal
squares, the former containing five acres, and lying in the eastern
part of the city.
New Haven is the seat of Yale college, which is, undoubtedly,
the greatest institution of its kind in the union. It was founded
in 1700, by ten farmers, who each donated a number of books
for its support; and named in honor of Eiihu Yale, who at his
death, left to the institution a large sum of money.  A whole
block, immediately east of the public green, is occupied by the
college and its buildings.  On the eastern side of the square are
five brick buildings, each four stories high, and containing study
rooms and sleeping apartments.  In the same row are the chapel,
observatory, and lyceum.  Farther back is the Trumbull gallery, containing a choice collection of historical paintings.  Near
the western  end of the square is the library building, a handsome gothic structure one hundred and fifty feet long.
"' Among the principal public edifices may be mentioned the
state house, standing in the western section of the green.  It is
a large stuccoed building, modeled after the Parthenon, and
contains, besides the legislative halls, apartments for the supreme,
superior, and county courts."
"The new railroad depot, recently erected on Chapel street,
near State street, is a fine brick structure, with towers."  The




NEW ENGLAND STATES.                 165
other principal buildings are St. Paul's chapel and Trinity
church, both handsome stone buildings.
The harbor of New Haven is very shallow, rendering a near
approach to land both difficult and dangerous. To meet this
difficulty, a wharf has been built in the bay, which extends
nearly three thousand five hundred feet from the shore.  The
city has four newspaper offices, five banks, with an aggregate
capital of two millions of dollars, and a savings institution,
having eight hundred and thirty-five thousand one hundred and
twelve dollars on deposit. Population in 1860, 39,268. (See
views of New Haven.)
HARTFORD,
Semi-capital, and, next to New Haven, the largest city of
Connecticut, is in Hartford county, on the western bank of the
Connecticut river, about one hundred and twenty-four miles
south-west of Boston, and thirty-six miles north-east of New
Haven. The city covers about two thousand acres of very uneven ground, which is intersected by upwards of seven hundred
streets and alleys. Main street, two miles long, and containing
the most important business buildings, extends through the entire
length of the city from north to south, dividing it in two nearly
equal parts. State street, extending from Main street to the
river, contains a large number of wholesale establishments.
Brick and freestone are the chief building materials. The
court house, erected in 1792, is one of the finest buildings in the
city. This structure, of the Doric order, is one hundred and
fourteen feet long, seventy-six feet wide, fifty-four feet high, and
is surmounted by a lofty dome. Trinity college, in a richly
ornamented inclosure, one mile south of the state house, is one
of the finest educational establishments in the state.  Wadsworth athenaeum, devoted to science, literature, and the arts,
and having a library of five thousand volumes, is a turreted
gothic building of granite construction, "A gallery of paintings, and other rooms devoted to the fine arts occupy the central
portion of the building."  The American asylum for deaf and
dumb, founded in 1820, is a four story building, one hundred




166              NEW ENGLAND STATES.
and thirty feet long, and fifty feet wide, attended by about two
hundred and thirty pupils. Hartford contains twelve banks,
twenty-four churches, seven newspaper offices, and seventeen
fire and life insurance companies. Population, 29,152.
MIDDLETOWN,'
An important city of Connecticut, and semi-capital of Middlesex county, is twenty-four miles north-east of New Haven, at
the head of ship navigation on the Connecticut, and on the Air
Line railway extending from New York to Boston. It is pleasantly situated on the slope of a hill, on the western bank of the
river. Main street, the principal thoroughfare, comprises the
business portion of the town. The principal buildings are the
custom house, court house, and the Wesleyan university, the
latter occupying an eminence, and commanding an extensive
view of the valley of the Connecticut.
Middletown has a fine harbor, and enjoys important water
communications with cities on the river. The city contains four
banks, two savings institutions, and manufactories of hardware,
guns, leather, etc. Population in 1860, 5,182.
NEW LONDON,
An important city of Connecticut, and semi-capital of New
London county, is on the western bank of the Thames river,
about three miles from Long Island sound. The ground on
which the city is built was formerly covered with huge granite
rocks, in consequence of which the city was laid off with little
regard to regularity. Much has been done of late, however, to
overcome the original inequalities of the surface. In the western
suburbs of the city is a lofty hill, from the summit of which a
varied and extensive view can be obtained.
Prominent among the public buildings are the custom house,
an elegant granite structure, and court house.
New London is extensively engaged in commerce and fisheries,
and is also rich in manufactures. The harbor is three miles
long, and thirty feet deep, and is encircled on nearly every side
by lofty hills, and defended by two strong fortresses, only one




NEW ENGLAND STATES.                167
of which, however, is garrisoned. The receipts from the whale
fishery for the year 1852, were one million three hundred and
forty-nine thousand eight hundred and seventy-two dollars.
New London has ten churches, four newspaper offices, sixteen
public schools, five banks, with a capital of six hundred thousand
dollars, and a savings institution with seven hundred and six
thousand one hundred and forty-four dollars on deposit. Population in 1860, 10,115.
NORWICH,
Beautifully situated at the head of the Thames river, is the
semi-capital of New London county, and, next to New Haven
and Hartford, is the largest city in Connecticut.
The Yantic and Shetucket rivers, which here unite to form
the Thames, have each falls and rapids which afford immense
hydraulic power to the foundries, mills, etc., of this manufacturing city. The southern portion of the city occupies the slope of
a large hill, but to the north it stretches over an elevated and
extensive plain.  Norwich contains the county buildings, an
excellent high school, and a large number of elegant and costly
private residences. About three hundred and fifty men are employed by the Norwich arms company in the manufacture of
government fire-arms.
Norwich forms communications with cities on the seaboard,
and in the interior by means of the Norwich and Worcester and
the New London northern railroads. The city contains seventeen churches, three newspaper offices, four insurance companies,
forty public schools, seven banks, three savings banks, and about
one hundred manufactories of cotton and woollen goods, paper,
machinery, etc. Population in 1860, 14,048.
NORWALK,
Is a city of Fairfield county, on both sides of the Norwalk
river, on the route of the New York and New Haven railroad,
forty-five miles north-east of New York, and thirty-one miles
south-west of New Haven.
Norwalk is noted for the manufacture of felt cloth, of which
two companies make over five hundred thousand yards per




168               NEW ENGLAND STATES.
annum.  The city contains nine churches, five banks, three
union school houses, one of which ranks among the finest educational establishments in the state, and two newspaper offices.
The Danbury and Norwalk and New York and New Haven
railroads form a junction at Norwalk, by means of which an
unbroken line of railway communication is established with all
important cities in the state. Vessels drawing six feet of water
ascend the river from Long Island sound as far as Norwalk.
Population in 1860, 7,582. (See views of Norwalk.)
In 1790 the population of Connecticut was two hundred and
thirty-eight thousand one hundred and forty-one; in 1860, four
hundred and sixty thousand one hundred and forty-seven. This
small increase is, doubtless, owing to the fact that a large portion of the population are yearly emigrating to other states.
Connecticut has seven hundred and sixty miles of railroad in
use. The state contains eight hundred and two churches, five
colleges, eighteen hundred and ten public schools, and one hundred and ninety-five academies. The governor and lieutenant
governor are elected by universal suffrage, the former receiving
eleven hundred dollars and the latter three hundred dollars per
annum. The senate is composed of twenty-one and the house
of representatives of two hundred and fifteen members.  Connecticut is represented by four members in the national house of
representatives, and is entitled to six electoral votes for president.
RHODE ISLAND.
Rhode Island, the smallest of the United States, and the last
of the thirteen original states, lies between latitude 41~ 18' and
420 N., and longitude 710 8' and 710 52' W. It is bounded
on the north and north-east by Massachusetts, on the south and
south-east by the Atlantic ocean and the Narragansett bay, on
the east by Massachusetts, and on the west by Connecticut. It
is forty-seven miles long, and thirty-seven miles broad, and includes an area of thirteen hundred and six square miles, or eight
hundred and thirty-five thousand eight hundred and forty acres.
Though the general character of the country is hilly and
rugged, there are level districts bordering upon the Atlantic




NEW ENGLAND STATES.                 169
ocean and Narragansett bay. The most important elevations
are the Woonsocket hills in the northern, Mount Hope in the
western, and Hopkin's hill in the central part of the state.
The principal rivers are the Blackstone and Patuxet, the
former rising in Massachusetts, and crossing the north-eastern
portion of Rhode Island, and both entering the Narragansett
bay. The other rivers of the state, though small, are rapid, and
afford valuable water powers. The Narragansett bay is a beautiful sheet of water, thirty miles long and twelve broad, and
containing numerous picturesque islands.  Block island, ten
miles from the coast, is eight miles long, and from two to five
miles broad.
The climate of Rhode Island resembles that of Connecticut.
The soil of the state is not very fertile, more attention being
given to grazing than to tilling.  Some of the adjoining islands,
however, are extremely productive. The chief productions are
wheat, Indian corn, rye, oats, potatoes, buckwheat, beans, wool,
butter, honey, wine, and flax.
Rhode Island is extensively engaged in manufactures. According to the manufacturing statistics of the year ending June
30, 1861, the capital invested amounted to twenty-three millions
of dollars; value of the annual product, forty-seven millions five
hundred thousand dollars. The commerce of Rhode Island is
chiefly confined to the neighboring states. Ier exports for the
year 1861 amounted to two hundred and fifty-five thousand two
hundred and ninety-seven dollars; imports, five hundred and
forty-three thousand six hundred and fifty-two dollars.
Providence and Newport are the capitals and largest cities in
the state. Other important towns are Southfield and Warwick.
PROVIDENCE,
The largest city and semi-capital of Rhode Island, and seat of
justice of Providence county, is situated on both sides of an arm
of the Narragansett bay, called Providence river, one hundred
and seventy-five miles north-east of New York, and forty-three
miles south-west of Boston. The ground on which the city is
built is very uneven, and rises on the eastern side, in a single




170               NEW ENGLAND STATES.
instance, to a hight of two hundred and four feet. The greatest
elevation on the western side is seventy-eight feet. In consequence of the irregularity of the surface, the city was laid off
with little regard to beauty or neatness. Much has recently
been done, however, to overcome the original defects, though
the city is not, as yet, a pattern of beauty or elegance. Several
bridges connect East and West Providence, one of which is over
one hundred and forty feet wide.
Prominent among the public buildings is the Arcada, on the
western side of the river, fronting on Broad street. This structure, two hundred and twenty-five feet long, eighty feet wide,
and three stories high, is built of granite, and in richness and
elegance surpasses every building in the city. " What Cheer "
is the name applied to a beautiful freestone edifice in Market
square. The other principal buildings are the custom house,
erected at a cost of two hundred and fifty thousand dollars, state
house, a fine brick structure, and the market house on Market
square, containing city government offices.  The principal
churches are Grace and First Congregational, gothic edifices of
granite construction.
Providence contains the Butler hospital for the insane, which
is located on the right bank of the Seekonk river. It was established in 1844, and called the Rhode Island hospital, but in 1851
it received its present name from Cyrus Butler, Esq., who contributed forty thousand dollars to aid in the support of the institution. The Dexter asylum for the poor, one hundred and
seventy feet long, and three stories high, is on the eastern bank
of the river, in an enclosure of forty acres.  The wall that encloses the building is ten feet high, and was constructed at a cost
of twenty thousand dollars.
On an eminence on the same side of the river is the Brown
university, established first at Warren, and removed to Providence in 1770.  The Athenaeuim, a costly stone structure,
founded in 1836, contains a free reading room, and a carefully
selected library of twenty-seven thousand six hundred and ninety-five volumes. Near the centre of the city is a circular park
or promenade, eighty feet wide, enclosing a delightful sheet of




NEW ENGLAND STATES.                171
water about one mile in circumference, which constitutes the
head waters of Narragansett bay.
Providence formerly carried on a large foreign trade, but her
commerce at the present time is chiefly domestic. The city contains fifty-two churches, ten newspaper offices, twenty-seven
school buildings, forty-five banks, four steam fire engines, two
manufactories of wood screws, two musket manufactories, and
one hundred stationary steam engines, worked by three hundred
and ten steam boilers. Population of the city in 1865, 55,000.
NEWPORT,
Semi-capital of Rhode Island, and seat of justice of Newport
county, is on the western end of a large island of the same name
as the state to which it belongs, in the Narragansett bay, twentyeight miles south-east of Providence.
Newport has one of the finest harbors in the union, and, up to
the time of the revolutionary war, was second to none of the
New England cities in commercial wealth. During that war her
population was reduced more than one-half, and she has since
never been able to regain her former standing. The site of the
city is a beautiful rounded elevation, overlooking the harbor and
bay, and commanding a varied and extensive prospect.
The most important public buildings are the state house, an
imposing brick edifice, surmounted by a cupola, market house,
and custom house. Among the churches may be mentioned the
Synagogue and Friends' meeting house. The Redwood library,
established in 1788, contains fifteen thousand volumes, and an
apartment devoted to the fine arts.
Newport is a fashionable watering place, and during the summer months is much frequented by tourists, and made the home
of wealthy gentlemen, who have established beautiful country
seats in the vicinity. For those in quest of sea air and change
of scenery, Newport presents unrivaled attractions.  A large
number of elegant and fashionable hotels have been erected for
the accommodation of visitors.  Of these the Bellevue house and
Ocean house are the most important.  The city contains fifteen
churches, two newspaper publications, an academy, an excellent




172               NEW ENGLAND STATES.
system of public schools, ten banks, and manufactories of carriages, clocks, calicoes, muslins, etc. Population in 1860, 10,508.
In 1860, Rhode Island had one hundred and seventy-four
thousand six hundred and twenty inhabitants, of which one hundred and seventy thousand six hundred and sixty-eight were
white, and three thousand nine hundred and fifty-two colored.
Rhode Island has fifty miles of railroad, three hundred and ten
churches, one college, four hundred and twenty-six public schools,
fifty-eight academies, three hundred and two libraries, and
twenty-six newspaper publications.
The governor receives for his services one thousand dollars,
and the lieutenant governor three hundred dollars per annum.
The senate consists of thirty-one and the house of representatives
of seventy-two members. In November, 1862, the state contained twenty-one savings banks, in which was deposited nine
millions five hundred and sixty thousand four hundred and fortyone dollars.




CHAPTER II.
THE MIDDLE STATES.
NEW YORK.
New York, the largest of the Middle States, and the most
important and populous of the United States, is bounded on the
north by Canada; on the south by Pennsylvania and New Jersey; on the east by Vermont, Massachusetts and Connecticut;
on the south-east by Long Island Sound; and on the west by
Canada, Pennsylvania and Lake Erie. Lakes Erie and Ontario, and the St. Lawrence and Niagara rivers, separate the state
from Canada; Lake Champlain, from Vermont; and the Delaware river, from Pennsylvania. It lies between latitude 40~ 30'
and 450 N., and longitude 72~ and 790 55' W. Greatest length
of the state from north to south, three hundred and eight miles;
from east to west, including Long Island, three hundred and
thirty-five miles; area, forty-seven thousand square miles, or
thirty million and eight hundred thousand acres.
The eastern portion of the state is rugged and mountainous.
The Highlands, formed by the Schooley mountains, the eastern
ridge of the Alleghanies, are from five hundred to one thousand
five hundred feet high. These elevations are continued across
the south-eastern portion of the state, by the Taconic mountains, which take the name of Green mountains, in Massachusetts and Connecticut.  The Adirondacks, the most important
group, are in the north-eastern part of the state, and border upon
Lake Champlain. Mount Marcy ha;.s an altitude of five thousand four hundred and sixty-seven feet, and is the culminating
point of the state. Mount Anthony, in the wild region of Lake
Champlain, is five thousand feet high. The Catskill mountains
extend from Catskill, on the Hudson, to Utica, on a branch of
the Mohawk. These mountains abound with wild glens and
beautiful water-falls, and are one of the greatest resorts for




174                THE MIDDLE STATES.
tourists in the state.  They attain their greatest elevation at
Roundtop, at an altitude of three thousand eight hundred and
four feet. The Catskill Mountain House is found at an elevation of two thousand two hundred and seventy-six feet, and
commands an extensive prospect. In the Kauterskill Gorge,
three miles south of the hotel, is the Kauterskill Fall, which is
precipitated one hundred and eighty feet, into a chasm of great
wildness. The Bastion Fall has a descent of eighty-five feet.
The scenery among the Catskills is grand and imposing. An
unbroken view of from fifty to seventy miles is obtained from
the piazza of the Mountain House. Directly at their base is
the beautiful valley of the Hudson, and away in the distance, in
the state of Massachusetts, the Green mountains are perceptible.
(See views of Catskill mountains.) In the western and southern
parts of the state, though there are no mountain ranges, the
country, as a general thing, is rugged and hilly.
The principal rivers of the state are the Hudson, and its
principal branch, the Mohawk, the Genesee, and the sources of
the Delaware and Susquehanna.  The Hudson river has its source
in the mountainous district, in the northern part of the state,
and enters New York bay in latitude 40~ 42' N., and longitude
740 1' 30" W. The headstreams of this river are found at an
altitude of four thousand feet, and are the outlets of numerous
mountain lakes. At Glens Falls, the river has a perpendicular
descent of fifty feet. It is affected by the tide as far as the
mouth of the Mohawk, one hundred and fifty miles from New
York. Its width, at this point, varies from three hundred to
seven hundred yards; and between Harverstraw and its mouth
it is often five miles broad. Its entire length, from its source to
its mouth, is three hundred miles. Justice can hardly be done
to the beauty and grandeur of the scenery of this river. The
Hudson highlands, originating in the Schooley mountains, commence about twenty miles from New York, and extend in an
unbroken mass along the bank of the river for fifty-five miles.
They frequently rise fifteen hundred feet above the Hudson, in
perpendicular ascent, but the average hight is not so great.
On the south, the highlands are known as palisades, which




THE MIDDLE STATES.                 175
consist of a vast wall of trap-rock, rising to the hight of from
three hundred to  five hundred feet.  Many of the hights
are crowned with the ruins of fortifications, which were erected
during the revolutionary war, to prevent British ships from
ascending the river. At Newburg, on the left bank of the
river, sixty-one miles from New York, was the headquarters of
Washington during a critical period of the war.  Mount Taurus,
an elevation among the Highlands, on the left bank of the river,
is forty miles north of New York.  Breakneck Hill is an eminence in Putnam county, on the eastern bank of the Hudson,
at the northern entrance of the Highlands. It is one thousand
one hundred and eighty-seven feet high, and terminates in the
promontory of St. Anthony's Nose. Polypus Island, a short
distance north, is an elevated body of land, of oval formation,
near the middle of the river. Its principal tributaries are the
Walkill, entering near Kingston, and the Mohawk flowing into
it near Troy. In 1820, there were only twenty-two sailing vessels on the river. The total number plying on its waters at the
present time, is supposed to exceed eight hundred.  The Hudson river steamboats are among the finest and fastest in the
world, being frequently over four hundred feet long, and furnished with great luxury.  The first successful experiment in
steamboat navigation, was made on the Hudson by Robert
Fulton, in 1807. The Hudson river was discovered by Henry
Hudson, an English navigator, in the service of the Dutch East
India company. It was at first called North river, to distinguish
it from the Delaware, which was then called South river, but
it has subsequently received the name of its discoverer.  (See
views of the Hudson.)
The Mohawk river rises between Lewis and Oneida, counties; receives the West Canada creek, its principal affluent, fourteen miles east of Utica, and enters the Hudson after a course
of one hundred and sixty-five miles. On West Canada creek,
fifteen miles north-east of Rome, are Trenton falls, which
descend three hundred and twelve feet in six cascades.  These
falls occur in a narrow and deep ravine, about two miles long,
with perpendicular walls of limestone on either side, frequently




176                 THE MIDDLE STATES.
rising to the hight of one hundred and ninety feet. They are
less remarkable for the volume of water, than for the wildness
and variety of the surrounding scenery. The highest fall has
a descent of one hundred feet. (See views of Trenton falls.)
At Little falls, the Mohawk has a descent of forty-five feet
in three-quarters of a mile, forming the celebrated Mill-dam
falls, which affords valuable water power to the village. At
Cohoes, about two miles from its confluence with the Hudson,
the river has a perpendicular descent of seventy feet. From
Rome to its mouth, the river is followed by the Hudson and
Erie canal. Rome, Utica, and Little Falls, are the chief towns
on its banks.  (See views on the Mohawk river.)
The Genesee river has its source in the northern part of the
state of Pennsylvania, and, after a northerly course of one hundred and sixty miles, reaches lake Ontario a short distance north
of Rochester. Near the source of the river are three falls, sixty,
ninety, and one hundred and ten feet high; and near its mouth
there are falls one hundred feet high. At Rochester the river
has a perpendicular pitch of ninety-seven feet, giving immense
water power to the factories and mills of that city.  (See views
of Genesee falls.)
The chief branches of the Susquehanna in New York, are
the Chemung and Chenango; of the Delaware, Oquago and
Popachton.  The Ramapo river rises near Newburg in Orange
county, and flows in a south and south-east direction, through
Bergen and Passaic counties, New Jersey, and discharges its
waters into the Atlantic ocean, through the Pompton and Passaic
rivers. This river is more remarkable for the beauty and variety
of its scenery, than for any manufacturing or commercial worth.
It passes through one of the wildest and most picturesque valleys
in the state. Near its source a range of hills branches off from
the highlands, and follows the river for a considerable distance.
Along the Erie railway, which intersects the valley, are a number of beautiful villages, the principal of which, Ramapo and
Greenwood, have rolling mills and furnaces.




THE MIDDLE STATES.                177
NIAGARA RIVER AND FALLS.
The Niagara and St. Lawrence rivers form a portion of the
boundary between New York and Canada. In the former occur
the world renowned falls and rapids. The river takes its rise in
the eastern extremity of Lake Erie, and, after flowing about
thirty-four miles, empties into Lake Ontario. It is from half a
mile to three miles broad.  It is deep, its sides level and its
course smooth until it reaches the rapids which extend three
miles immediately above the falls, the last half mile of which
surges and foams with terrific fury.
The cataract of Niagara is not the highest in the world, but
it is remarkable for forcing over the precipice a greater amount
of water than any other. The highest waterfall in the world is
the Yosemite, being over two thousand feet in hight. The falls
of Niagara have a descent of only about one hundred and seventy feet, "but the immense body of water that rushes in an almost
undivided mass down this distance produces upon the beholder
the most intense wonder, and furnishes one of the most sublime
objects to be found in the world. Such is the mighty scale on
which this cataract is constructed that the beholder does not, at
first sight, comprehend its full grandeur, but by degrees it seems
to increase in size; its awful front appears to rise higher, its
prodigious volume to expand, and its whole aspect to assume a
more fearful and sublime physiognomy."
The falls are twenty-three miles from Lake Erie. The river
is here divided by an island containing about seventy-five acres,
called Goat island, the extremity of which is perpendicular and
in a line with the precipice over which the water is precipitated.
In consequence of a bend in the river the greater volume of
water is sent down on the Canada side. On this side is therefore the greater cataract, which, from its form, has been named
Horse Shoe fall, but it no longer bears that name appropriately,
as the precipice has been, by the dropping and wearing away of
the rock, changed from a circular to a triangular form. On the
Canada side of of Goat island stands Terrapin tower, from the
12




178.               THE MIDDLE STATES.
top of which is afforded a commanding view of the falls and river
below. The falls next the United States, and to the left of Goat
island, are called the American falls.
The process of wearing away goes on gradually. Six hundred and seventy thousand tons of water are precipitated over
the falls into the gulf every minute. The upper layer of rock
is hard, but the strata beneath are soft and easily worn away by
the continued action of the water, and then the weight of water
causes large pieces of the crust to break off from time to time.
The rate of retrocession has been estimated to average from one
foot to one yard per year. The present rate is probably not
equal to what it was when the falls were near Lake Ontario, nor
what it will be as they approach Lake Erie, the rock in these
places being softer. Geologists think there is abundant proof
that the river between the falls and Queenstown flows in a different channel than it did formerly. Three miles below the falls
the contiguity of the bank is broken by a ravine filled with sand
and gravel. This being filled up when the continent was submerged, the river was obliged to seek a new route, and has worn
away this gorge seven miles long and one hundred and fifty feet
deep. Some geologists have thought the erosion was made by
other agencies than the river, but the work which is constantly
going on there from year to year proves that it has only required time to complete this excavation. It has been supposed,
that should the falls ever recede to Lake Erie, a terrible inundation of the region eastward would be the result. But De La
Beache has proved satisfactorily, that the only effect would be a
gradual draining of Lake Erie, with a slight increase of Niagara
river.
The hight of the Horse Shoe fall is not so great as that of the
American, yet it surpasses the latter in beauty. The concussion
of air caused by this immense cataract is so great that the windows of a hotel, about three hundred yards distant from the
falls, are constantly in a tremulous motion. In cold weather the
spray freezes on the surrounding buildings, covering them with
sheets of ice. On the trees it is accumulated in such masses as
to bend them to the ground, and from the margin of the rocks




THE MIDDLE STATES.                179
are suspended huge clusters of icicles, sometimes one hundred
feet in length, and massive ice mounds are also found which add
much to the grandeur of the scene.
The street between the Cataract and International hotels leads
to the iron bridge over the rapids to Goat island. The bridge is:
three hundred and sixty feet long, having four arches of ninety
feet span. It is twenty-seven feet wide, has a double carriage
way and two foot paths. To the left of Goat island is the Centre fall, which, in contrast with American fall, when seen at a
distance, seems like a mere ribbon of water, while its real breadth
is two hundred and forty feet. Knowing the actual, and observing the apparent width of this fall, serves to give the spectator
a more correct idea of the great size of the whole cataract. This
fall, situated at the right of the American, may be seen in the
views of the American fall from the Canada side.
The Suspension bridge is two miles below the falls, and at the
head of the rapids. Between the bridge and the falls the water
is perfectly calm and smooth. Below the bridge are two rapids,
caused by the narrowing of the bed of the river and the rocks at
the bottom. These rapids run at the rate of twenty-five miles
per hour, with breakers rising from ten to twenty feet. The
Suspension bridge is constructed of wire, and is considered by
some as great a curiosity as the falls themselves. It is eight
hundred feet long, twenty-four wide and about two hundred and
fifty above the river, and is supported by four cable wires nine
and a fourth inches in diameter. These cable wires are composed
of small wire twisted together. The force of the current under
the bridge is so great that a piece of lead, weighing two hundred
pounds, dropped from the bridge, was carried down stream the
length of the rope without sinking. At the extremity of the
first rapids is the whirlpool, caused by an abrupt turn in the
river. The rapids below the whirlpool are about one half mile
in extent.
Table Rock, on the Canada side, formerly afforded a good
view of the fall. It derived its name from its projecting over
the river in the form of a table.  The rock has now fallen. A




180                THE MIDDLE STATES.
number of people were standing upon it just a few minutes before
it fell into the abyss below. Near this point is a staircase which
must be descended in order to pass under Horse Shoe fall to
Termination rock. One writer, who visited this rock, vowed
never again to encounter the blinding, hissing spray, the deafening roar of the falling waters, and the dread possibilities of a
second visit to that indescribable, awe-inspiring, terribly magnificent, infernal region.
Lewiston, a flourishing village at the head of navigation on
the Niagara, is about half way between the falls and Lake Ontario, and about five miles from the Suspension bridge. About
one mile above Lewiston, on the American side, the bluffs diverge
off from the river and terminate in what is called Lewiston mountain, the top of which affords a grand and imposing view overlooking the village of Lewiston and the valley and river below
to its junction with Lake Ontario. (See views of Niagara.)
New York abounds with beautiful lakes, among which may
be mentioned Cayuga, Oneida, Seneca, Chautauqua, Lake George,
and Long Lake. The former three are drained by the Oswego
river, which empties into lake Ontario. Cayuga lake is forty
miles long, and from one to four miles broad. The water is very
deep, and is seldom frozen. A steamboat plies from the northern
end of the lake, to Ithaca, at the southern.  Oneida lake, eighteen miles long, and from three to six miles wide, passes into
the Oswego, through Oneida river. Its waters abound with fish,
among which trout, salmon, salmon trout, pike and bass, are
conspicuous. Seneca lake is a beautiful sheet of water, forty
miles long, and from three to five miles wide, lying between
Tompkins and Seneca counties on the east, and Steuben and
Yates on the west.  Chautauqua lake is a beautiful expanse of
water in Chautauqua county, eighteen miles long, and from one
to three miles broad, and drained by a branch of the Alleghany
river. Its name is derived from an Indian phrase, signifying a
"foggy place."
Lake George, also called Horicon, is a beautiful expanse of
water, between Warren and Washington counties, remarkable




THE MIDDLE STATES.                18i
for the transparency of its waters, and the grandeur of the surrounding scenery. It is thirty-four miles long, and from one to
three and a half miles wide. It is four hundred feet deep in
some places, and contains over three hundred picturesque islands. Few places in the United States can boast of more beautiful natural scenery than that which surrounds Lake George.
The Narrows, or narrowest portion of the lake, commence
thirteen miles from the south-western shore, and are continued
from six to eight miles. One mile farther north is an island of
about twenty acres, called, from its position, Twelve Mile island.
At the entrance of the Narrows, on the western bank of the lake,
commence the Black mountains, which reach their greatest hight
at an altitude of twenty-two hundred feet. Rogers' Slide, an
immense rock, two hundred feet high, received its name from the
daring exploit of Major Rogers, who, during the French and
Indian war, being closely pursued by the Indians, slid down the
steep declivity, and reached the ice below without injury. In
the vicinity of the lake is the monument erected to the memory
of Colonel Ephraim Williams, who fell in the French war, on
the 8th of September, 1755. On the battle ground, near the
monument, is a collection of water called Bloody Pond. (See
views of Lake George.)
Fort Ticonderoga, near the mouth of the lake, is one hundred
feet above the water level. It is surrounded by water upon
three sides, and upon a greater portion of the fourth by a deep
morass. The ruins of this fort are yet quite picturesque. (See
views of Fort Ticonderoga.)
Several important islands are found off the coast of New York,
the principal of which are Long, Staten, and Manhattan islands.
Long Island, separated from New York by a strait half a mile
wide, is one hundred and fifteen miles long and fifteen miles
broad. The soil is exceedingly rich, and extensively cultivated.
The Long Island railroad extends through the centre of the
island from Brooklyn to Greenport. Staten Island, in New
York bay, is fifteen miles long and from three to eight miles
broad, and constitutes the county of Richmond. Richmond hill
is a term applied to a beautiful elevation in the northern portion




182                THE MIDDLE STATES.
of the island, which has an elevation of over three hundred feet.
Manhattan Island is fifteen miles long and from one to three
miles wide, and is the site of New York city.
New York presents a great variety of climate. The severity
of the winters and the intense heat of the summers is greatly
modified in the western and south-eastern, portions of the state
by the vicinity to the lakes and the sea coast. In the north the
winters are long and severe, and the summers, though short, are
excessively hot. New York, as a general thing, is very fertile.
Among the mountains and hills there are sterile districts, but on
-the plains in the western portion of the state, and in the river
valleys, the soil is exceedingly rich, and in every way adapted
to agriculture.  The chief products are oats, Irish potatoes,
grass seeds, fruits, hay, hops, maple sugar, butter, cheese, honey,
Indian corn, wheat, barley, beans, flax, buckwheat, sweet potatoes, and tobacco.  According to the agricultural statistics of
1860, the amount of wheat produced in that year was eight millions six hundred and eighty-one thousand and one hundred
bushels; amount of corn, twenty millions sixty-one thousand and
forty-eight bushels; amount of wool, nine millions four hundred
and fifty-four thousand four hundred and seventy-three pounds.
The principal forest trees are oak, pine, tamarack, spruce, hemlock, larch, walnut, fir, chestnut, beech, butternut, elm, ash, and
sugar maple.
The manufactures of New York are very important.  According to the census of 1860, the state contained twenty-two thousand six hundred and twenty-four manufacturing establishments,
with a capital of one hundred and seventy-five millions four hundred and forty-nine thousand two hundred and six dollars, and
an annual income of three hundred.and seventy-nine millions six
hundred and twenty-three thousand five hundred and sixty dollars.  In commercial wealth New York takes the lead among all
the United States.  According to the commercial statistics of
the year ending June 30, 1861, her exports amounted to one
hundred and fifty-eight millions six hundred and six thousand
five hundred and eighteen dollars; imports, two hundred and




THE MIDDLE STATES.                183
thirty-seven millions four hundred and two thousand seven hundred and twenty-six dollars.
Albany is the capital of th6 state, and New York is the chief
city. The other principal cities are Brooklyn, Buffalo, Rochester, Troy, Syracuse, Utica, Oswego, Kingston, Newburg, and
Elmira.
ALBANY,
The capital of the state, and seat of justice of Albany county,
is finely situated on the western bank of the Hudson, one hundred and forty-five miles north of New York, and one hundred
and sixty-four miles north-west of Boston. The site of the city,
from being low and level on the shore, becomes rugged and uneven as you advance from the river. State street, running from
the capitol to the river, is the most important promenade in the
city. Broadway, intersecting the former thoroughfare at right
angles, contains the greater portion of the business buildings.
The most important public buildings are the capitol, city hall,
and state hall. The former is an imposing stone edifice with
marble columns, one hundred and fifteen feet long, ninety feet
wide, and fifty feet high, surmounted by a lofty dome, supporting a wooden statue of the goddess Thiemis, " with a sword in
her right hand and a balance in her left." The city hall, surmounted by an elegant dome, and state hall, are beautiful marble
buildings, on the eastern side of the capitol grounds. Connected
with the capitol is the state library, a substantial brick edifice,
containing upwards of seventy-five thousand volumes. The other
important libraries are the Young Men's association, containing
ten thousand, and the Albany institute having six thousand
volumes.
The educational establishments of Albany are a credit to the
city. The most important of these are the university, founded
in 1852, and the Albany academy, situated on the eastern side
of the capitol grounds, and attended by over four hundred pupils.
The state normal school, founded in 1844, has a library of one
thousand volumes.




184                THE MIDDLE STATES.
Albany is one of the greatest lumber markets in the world.
In 1863, the value of the lumber received in the city amounted
to seven millions of dollars.
Albany is the centre of a large number of railroads, by means
of which an uninterrupted line of communication is established
with all important cities in the state. The city contains fiftyseven churches, seventeen newspaper offices, an excellent system
of public schools, belonging to which are libraries containing in
all eight thousand volumes, and fifteen banks. Population in
1860, 62,367.
NEW YORK,
The great metropolis of the United States, and, in connection
with the surrounding cities, which might properly be regarded
as suburbs, the third city in importance in the civilized world,
is situated on Manhattan island, in latitude 400 42' 43" N., and
longitude 740 3"f W. Its site is formed by the confluence of
the East with the Hudson river, and is separated from the mainland by the Harlem river and Spuyten Duyvel creek. The city
also comprises several adjacent islands, containing fortifications
and public institutions. The most densely populated portion of
the city occupies about four miles of the southern part of the
island.
In the New York harbor are twelve forts, mounting fifteen
hundred guns.  The Narrows, at the entrance of the bay, are
one mile wide, and are defended by Fort Lafayette, in the water,
two hundred yards from the shore, and Fort Hamilton, on Long
Island.
The city of New York is very compactly built, and is regularly laid off into one hundred and forty-one thousand four hundred and eighty-six lots. Broadway, the principal street, is four
miles long and five rods wide. It commences at the Battery, in
the south-western portion of the island, and extends, in a northeasterly direction, to Grace church, where it bends to the northwest, and passes through the newer portions of the city. Of the
many streets which cross Broadway at right angles, Chatham
street is the most important.




THE MIDDLE STATES.                  185
Fifth avenue, the most fashionable promenade of the city, is
lined with massive hotels, stores, and public buildings, many of
which are built of marble, and contains, also, elegant private
residences and imposing churches. Rialto and Lombard streets
contain insurance and brokers' offices and banking houses, and
is the great financial district of the United States. Wall street,
running east from Broadway, is lined with a compact mass of
buildings, of marble, granite and sand-stone construction, and
contains the merchants' exchange and the old custom house.
One of the most prominent features of New York, is Central
Park, in the northern portion of the city. It is laid out in the
finest style of landscape gardening, and has cost the city over
fifteen millions of dollars. The park is from one to two miles
long, and nearly three-fourths of a mile wide. It formerly covered an area of about seven hundred and fifty acres, but a small
portion of this space is now occupied by the city. For a traveler visiting New York, a more pleasing and attractive spot
could not be found, than this park. Its uneven surface, over
which are scattered masses of rock; its broad and handsome
carriage roads, and winding gravel walks; its labyrinth of ornamental trees, and profusion of flowers, all add to the beauty of
the place, and unite to render it one of the most pleasing and
delightful retreats in existence. Superior architectural and engineering faculty have been employed in the construction of
various buildings, bridges, etc. Scattered over the grounds are
artificial sheets of water, containing beautiful fountains, and
crossed by rustic bridges. During the winter, the park is a
favorite resort for a multitude of skaters, of both sexes. A
substantial stone wall, six feet high, has recently been built
around the park. (See views of Central Park.)
The City Hall Park is a triangular enclosure of eleven acres,.
beautifully adorned with shade trees, and containing the city
hall and other public buildings. Castle Garden, near the Battery, was formerly used as a place of public exhibitions, concerts
and fairs.
Prominent among the public buildings, is the city hall, two
hundred and sixteen feet long, one hundred and five feet wide,




186                THE MIDDLE STATES.
and sixty-five feet high. The sides and south front are of marble, and the north front is of red sand-stone. Annual art exhibitions are given by the National Academy of Design, a handsome
edifice on the corner of Fourth avenue and Twenty-third street.
The United States Treasury, formerly the custom-house, is on the
corner of Wall and Nassau streets, and occupies the site of the
old federal hall, from the street gallery of which Washington
delivered his first inaugural address, and received the oath of
office, which was administered by Chancellor Livingston. The
building is two hundred feet long, ninety feet wide, and eighty
feet high. At each end is a portico, supported by eight immense
pillars. Edwin Booth's theatre is a handsome marble building,
recently erected on Twenty-third street, between Fifth and Sixth
avenues. The Bible house is a six story brick building, two
hundred and thirty-two feet long, and seventy-seven feet wide,
on the corner of Eighth street and Fourth avenue. The city
hospital is an immense building, of grey-stone construction, on
Broadway, one hundred and twenty-four feet long, fifty feet
wide, and three stories high, with accommodations for two hundred patients.
New York contains numerous academies and schools, of both
public and private character. The New York University, founded in 1831, is a beautiful white marble edifice, built in gothic
style, on Washington square. It is a four story building, one
hundred and eighty feet long, and one hundred feet wide. Connected with the institution are apartments, devoted to law and
medicine. The General Theological Seminary, established in
1817, comprises two stone buildings, each one hundred and ten
by fifty feet, situated on West Twentieth street. The Free
Academy is a handsome gothic brick structure, founded in 1848,
and located on the corner of East Twenty-third street and Lexington avenue. The entire cost of the building exceeded one
hundred and fifty-two thousand dollars.   Columbia College,
known as King's College before the revolution, and the oldest
school in the city, was founded in 1754. Rutger's Female Institute is a fine structure, on the corner of Fifth avenue and




THE MIDDLE STATES.                187
Forty-second street, established in 1838. The New York Academy of Music, or Opera House, on the corner of Fourteenth
street and Irving place, contains seats for four thousand seven
hundred persons. The Cooper Institute, directly opposite the
Bible house, is a present to the city from Mr. Peter Cooper, who
appropriated nearly three hundred thousand dollars for its establishment. It is one hundred and ninety-three feet long, one
hundred and forty-three feet wide, five stories high, and has a
free reading room, picture gallery, art schools, etc.
The largest library in the city is the Astor, founded by John
Jacob Astor, who, at his death, bequeathed four hundred thousand dollars for that purpose. The Mercantile library, founded
in 1820, and recently removed to the Astor place, contains sixty
thousand volumes, and a large reading room. One of the largest
and most imposing buildings in New York is Stewart's store, an
elegant white marble building, occupying a whole block, and
being 152 feet on Broadway. Distributed throughout the building are nearly two thousand panes of' glass, fifteen of which, in
the lower story, fronting on Broadway, are eleven by seven feet.
In the evening, the various departments of the store are lighted
up by four hundred gas-burners.
New York contains a large number of elegant and fashionable
hotels. The most important of these are the Fifth avenue,
Hoffman house, Astor house, St. James, and La Farge house.
The former two are opposite Madison square, six stories high,
and constructed of pure white marble. The Astor house is a
substantial building on Broadway, two hundred and one feet
long, one hundred and eighty-five feet wide, and six stories high.
It is built of Quincy granite, and contains three hundred and
twenty-six chambers.
In 1865, New York had three hundred and eleven churches,
of which Trinity, Grace, Calvary, Holy Communion, and St.
Paul's were the most conspicuous. Trinity church, built of red
sandstone, is on the corner of Broadway and Wall street. It is
gothic style, one hundred and eighty-nine feet long, eighty-four
feet wide, and has the highest spire in the United States. The
tower contains a rich chime of bells, and, including the spire, is




188                THE MIDDLE STATES.
two hundred and sixty-four feet high. Near where Broadway
bends to the north-west, stands Grace church, a handsome white
marble edifice, with a tower and spire, surmounted by a cross.
St. Paul's church is a handsome structure, immediately to the
right of the Astor house, on Broadway, having a lofty spire
rising from the rear end of the building.
Union square, on the corner of Broadway and Fourteenth
street, is an oval inclosure, containing a life-like and imposing
equestrian statue of Washington. The Worth monument, erected
in honor of General Worth, an able officer of the Mexican war,
who died in Texas, in May, 1849, is in Madison square, a truncated triangular space, directly opposite the Hoffman house.
The streets of New York are traversed by twenty-four lines
of omnibuses and horse railways, five of which carried in one
year over thirty-two millions of passengers.
A river of pure soft water is received in the city by the
Croton aqueduct. This water is conveyed from the Croton
river, forty miles distant, through sixteen tunnels, and received
in reservoirs of sufficient magnitude to hold conjointly, one
billion and two hundred millions of gallons. New York employs
sixteen hundred police, with salaries varying from eight hundred
to five thousand dollars annually. A volunteer fire department
of four thousand two hundred and twenty-seven members, mans
fifty steam and hand engines, fifty-six hose carts, and seventeen
hooks and ladder trucks.
New York is extensively engaged in both foreign and domestic
commerce. Her matchless harbor is formed by the upper bay,
which, with its two arms, nearly surrounds the city. New York
is connected with Canada and the great lakes, by the Hudson
river and the Erie Canal; with the New England states, by
Long Island Sound; has easy access to the Atlantic ocean, by
which it carries on a trade with nearly every maritime nation on
the earth. Elegant steamboats of great magnitude and speed,
form connections with the most important cities in the world.
The harbor is literally crowded with masts, bearing aloft flags
of every maritime nation on the globe. New York has twentyfive ship-yards and manufactories of steam engines, machinery,




THE MIDDLE STATES.                 189
clothing, carriages and pianoforte factories, and contains twelve
large book-publishing establishments. In 1790, the population
of New York was 23,831; in 1860, 813,669.  (See views of
New York.)
BROOKLYN.
Brooklyn, a city at the western end of Long Island, and the
capitol of King's county, is, next to New York and Philadelphia,
the largest city in the United States.  It is separated from
New York by the East river, and is connected with that city
by numerous steam ferries, which cross every few minutes during
the day, and every half-hour during the night.
Brooklyn is regularly laid off, the streets being about sixty feet
wide, and crossing each other at right angles. Fulton, the most
important exception of the general directness of the streets, is
the principal thoroughfare of the city. The rapid growth of
Brooklyn is owing partially to the healthiness of the climate,
but chiefly to its proximity to the great metropolis. The most
beautiful private residences are erected by wealthy gentlemen,
and business men of New York.
The principal public buildings are the city hall, court-house,
and academy of music. The city hall, occupying a triangular
space on Fulton street, is a three story white marble edifice,
one hundred and sixty-two feet long, by one hundred and two
feet wide, and surmounted by a dome seventy-five feet high.
The court-house, built in Corinthian style, also on Fulton street,
was erected at a cost of five hundred and forty thousand dollars.
Brooklyn contains one hundred and twenty-one churches, the
finest of which are the Holy Trinity, Church of the Puritans,
Grace church, Church of the Restoration, and Plymouth church.
The Church of the HIoly Trinity is a gothic brown stone structure
which cost nearly one hundred and fifty thousand dollars. The
Church of the Puritans, Grace church, and Church of the
Restoration, are also built in gothic style, the former of graystone, and the latter of brown-stone.
In the south-eastern portion of the city, on the southern side
of Wallabout bay, is the national navy-yard, covering forty




190                THE MIDDLE STATES.
acres of ground, and enclosed by a high stone wall. Within
the yard are two ship-houses, where are built torpedo boats, war
sloops, and other vessels useful in naval warfare. The navyyard also contains workshops, officers' quarters, and a vast
amount of military stores. (See views of Brooklyn navy-yard.)
Brooklyn has several flourishing banks, various literary institutions, and numerous seminaries of education-an ample share,
in short, of all that characterizes a wealthy, populous, and
intelligent community.  Population in 1865, 350,000.  (See
views of Brooklyn.)
GREENWOOD CEMETERY.
One of the most attractive features of Brooklyn, is Greenwood Cemetery, three miles south-east of Fulton ferry, on
Gowanus hights. In beauty of location and adornments of art,
Greenwood has no rival. A more beautiful spot for the great
necropolis of New York, could not have been easily selected.
From its verdant and breezy hills, a glowing and extensive prospect of the surrounding country is gained. A good view is
obtained of Long Island, Staten Island, the matchless harbor of
New York, beyond which rise the lofty edifices, domes and
church spires of the metropolis. The grounds, beautifully laid
off, are traversed by broad and handsome carriage-ways and
multitudes of avenues, shady lanes, and winding gravel walks,
leading to artificial lakes and ponds. The avenues are variously
denominated, Alder, Aspen, Baltic, Bayside, Birch, Central,
Cypress, Dale, Edgewood, Elm, etc. The length of the various
avenues, taken conjointly, and excluding the numerous footpaths, is sixteen miles. Among the hills, valleys, ridges, and
waters, occur the following characteristic and beautiful names:
Alpine Hill, Arbor Water, Battle Hill, Bayside Dell, Cedar
Dell, Cherry Hill, Crescent Water, Evergreen Ridge, Maple
Ridge, Fountain Hill, Ocean Bluff, Grassy Hill, Edge Hill, etc.
Greenwood Cemetery has been a chartered institution for
about thirty-one years. John Hanna, who died in September,
1840, was the first person interred in its limits. In 1844,




THE MIDDLE STATES.                191
DeWitt Clinton, once governor of New York, and whose autograph is carved in the soil of that state, from the Hudson river
to Lake Erie, was buried in Greenwood. The first bronze casting America ever produced, stands upon his tomb in Bayside
Dell. (See view.)  The figure is an imposing representation
of the statesman, and is the work of the same skillful hand that
produced the equestrian statue of Washington in Union Square.
Other noted men, who repose in Greenwood, are James K. Paulding, author of Dutchman's tFireside, and other works of prose
and poetry, which will keep his name forever fresh in the memory of the people; Dr. Samuel L. Mitchell, a distinguished
United States senator; Dr. Valentine Mott, the celebrated surgeon; and James Kent, the celebrated chancellor and writer of
the well-known commentaries on American law. An Alabamian
named Dixon H. Lewis, after a ramble in Greenwood, expressed
his desire to be buried there. He was styled the " stout member" at congress, and actually required two seats in the halls of
that house for his accommodation. Generals O. M. Mitchell
and George C. Strong, of the union, and General Garnet, of
the rebel army, are among the noted soldiers that repose in
Greenwood. In the poets' corner, are the remains of "Poor
McDonald Clarke," a poetical writer of eccentric fancies, who
flourished about forty years ago. The neat obelisk, which marks
his grave, is surrounded by a circular iron railing. A fine likeness of Clarke is sculptured on the face of the monument, and
below is the epitaph, written by himself:  "Sacred to the memory of Poor McDonald Clarke."  The monument adjoining
Clarke's, was erected to the memory of Dohum-mee, a young
Indian princess of the Sac tribe, who died while in New York,
whither she had come with a delegation of Sacs and Iowas. A
plain white monument marks her grave, on which the modest
legend, "Mrs. Eliza Gilbert, died January 17, 1861," would
fail to stimulate curiosity, or awaken interest.
Among the costly monuments of Greenwood, the one erected
to the memory of Charlotte Canda, is really the most important.
(See view.)  Her death occurred on the evening of her seventeenth birthday, and was occasioned by a fall from her




192                THE MIDDLE STATES.
carriage, as she was returning from a party. The fortune which
the bereaved father had intended as her dowry, was expended
on her tomb. Under the spire-flanked arch, is a picture of the
young girl, as she was dressed on the evening of the accident.
An oblong space in front of the statue, is surmounted by a balustrade, which forms an ornate porch to the monument. A
monumental slab, in the middle of this space, has at its head an
urn, with books and instruments of music and drawing. Upon
the esplanade fronting the statue, are two guardian angels gazing
upon her.
Another handsome monument is the one recently erected by
James Brown, in memory of several members of his family who
perished on board the ill-fated vessel, the Arctic. It is constructed of Italian marble and Aberdeen granite, is forty-six feet
high, and has four columns, surmounted with gables, upon which
are crockets, wrought in imitation of white lilies and twining ivy.
Upon the different sides of the monument are inscribed appropriate texts of scripture, and upon the groining of the arches
are four angels looking down on the sinking steamer, which is
most admirably represented in marble. Groups of coral, seaweed, and shells, are carved on the moulding of the pedestal, and
the entire monument, standing at the top of " the Tower," near
Landscape.avenue, is delicately designed and executed.
The Pilot's monument, which stands on Battle hill, is a lofty
and slender shaft, erected to the memory of a gallant seaman.
The Firemen's monument, on Summit avenue, is a pyramidal
marble column, surmounted by a well executed figure of a fireman. The Sea Captain's monument, and monument of Henry
Ruggles, and the tombs of Niblo, W. W. Grosbeck, and many
others, also attract general attention.
A chapel, for the purpose of conducting the funeral services
of foreigners and strangers, has been established in the cemetery.
After turning a certain corner of the city, the procession is
observable, when the tolling of the chapel bell announces its
approach.




THE MIDDLE STATES.                 193
BUFFALO,
The third city in importance of New York, and seat of justice
of Erie county, is at the eastern end of Lake Erie, at the point
where it merges into the Niagara river, covering about the same
space on the river as on the lake. It is three hundred miles
west of Albany, four hundred miles north-west of New York, and
five hundred and thirty-eight miles north-east of Chicago, and is
the terminus of the New York and Erie and New York Central
railroads, and the Hudson and Erie canal.  The site of the city,
bordering on the lake and river, is low and level, but before
reaching the western suburbs the ground rises to a hight of sixty
feet.  Niagara street, the most important thoroughfare, is four
miles long, and extends nearly across the city from north to
south. In the western section of the city the streets are bordered with magnificent shade trees, frequently of great magnitude, and contain many elegant and costly private residences.
Among the finest buildings may be mentioned the city hall, four
large markets, two court houses, and the city penitentiary.
The literary and educational institutions of Buffalo are important.  The Germans' Young Men's association, contains a free
reading room, and a library of over two thousand volumes. In
the Young Men's association buildings, costing about one hundred and forty thousand dollars, is a well selected library of
twelve thousand volumes.  The Buffalo female academy, on Delaware street, is one of the finest institutions of the kind in the
state.
Buffalo is extensively engaged in commerce. The total trade
for the year 1863, amounted to two hundred and fifty-six millions two hundred and fourteen thousand six hundred and fourteen dollars. The city has seventy churches, eighteen newspaper publications, a school for colored children, twenty-five
district schools, one high school, nine banks, seventy-five insurance offices, twenty iron manufactories, extensively engaged in
the manufacture of steam boilers and engines, nails, car-axles,
anchors, etc., and a rolling mill, in which are nine heating and
sixteen puddling furnaces.
13




194                 THE MIDDLE STATES.
The entire length of the streets in Buffalo is two hundred and
ninety-six miles, fifty-three miles of which were paved at a cost
of one million five hundred and forty-one thousand six hundred
and ninety-three dollars. Population in 1860, 81,131.
ROCHESTER,
One of the most important cities of New York, and seat of
justice of Monroe county, is on the Genesee river, about seven
miles from the point where that stream pours its waters into
Lake Ontario.  It is on the route of the New York Central
railroad and Erie canal, the latter of which crosses the Genesee,
at this place, by a freestone aqueduct of nine arches, each fifty
feet span, and constructed at a cost of six hundred thousand
dollars.  The city is two hundred and thirty miles west by north
of Albany, and sixty-eight miles north-east of Buffalo.  It occupies a plain of about five thousand five hundred acres, which is
intersected by well paved streets from sixty to eighty feet wide.
Marble, stone, and brick are the chief building materials.
The most important public buildings are the Arcade, city hall,
and court house, the two latter of which were constructed at a
cost of about seventy-five thousand dollars each.  Among the
libraries may be mentioned the Rochester athenseum, having
twelve thousand, and the free library ten thousand volumes.
The Rochester university is a brown stone edifice, completed in
1859.' The building cost two hundred thousand dollars, and is
attended by upwards of one hundred and seventy-five students.
The chief hotels are Bracket, Waverly, National, and Congress
Hall.
The Genesee river, at Rochester, has a descent, in between
two and three miles, of two hundred and twenty-six feet, thus
establishing that immense hydraulic power to which the city owes
its manufacturing prosperity.  Rochester has manufactories of
flour, paper, cotton, woollen, machinery, locomotives, etc. The
city has forty-five churches, fifteen newspaper offices, three collegiate institutes, a free academy, two commercial colleges, eighteen public schools, several ladies' seminaries, two orphan asylums, an industrial school, an insane asylum, and a city hospital.




THE MIDDLE STATES.                 195
It contains, also, twenty-two mills, which produce, on an average,
seven thousand three hundred and twenty barrels of flour per
day. The Rochester gas company has twenty-nine miles of
gas pipe distributed over the city in various directions, which
keeps in lighting order upwards of one thousand public lamps.
Population in 1865, 60,000. (See views at Rochester.)
TROY,
A city of New York, and seat of justice of Rensselaer county,
is at the head of steamboat navigation on the Hudson, on both
sides of the river, one hundred and fifty-one miles above New
York.  The site of the city is a fertile and undulating plain,
about three and one half miles long and one and one half miles
wide. Mounts Olympus and Ida, the former in the northern
and the latter in the southern suburbs of East Troy, are the only
important elevations in the city. River street, the most important thoroughfare, is lined with massive warehouses and fine
hotels, and follows the course of the river through nearly the
entire length of the city.
Prominent among the public buildings is the court house, a
fine marble building of the Doric order. Among the schools
may be mentioned the Troy female seminary, academy, and the
Renssalaer institute, the former attended by from two hundred
and seventy to three hundred pupils, and all containing valuable
libraries. The most important churches are St. John's, of brown
sandstone, St. Paul's, of blue limestone, and the Presbyterian of
brick, stuccoed in imitation of granite. Among the hotels, the
Troy house, Mansion house, Washington hall, Charles house,
and Union hall, are the most important.
The commerce of Troy is important. Large steamboats ascend
the river as far as this city, where they receive cargoes brought
hither by the Hudson and Erie and the Champlain canals. Troy
is connected with Philadelphia by a line of propellers and barges,
and with Boston by a line of sailing packets. The city contains
thirty churches, eight newspaper publications, fifteen banks, a




196                THE MIIDDLE STATES.
large number of flour and paper mills, and cotton, -woollen, and
leather factories, and malleable iron works. Population in 1860,
39,235.
SYRACUSE,
A thriving city of New York, aid seat of justice of Onondaga
county, eighty miles west of Albany, and thirty-five miles southeast of Oswego, is at the extreme southern end of a small lake
bearing the same name as the county in which it is situated. It
is the terminus of the Syracuse and Oswego, and Syracuse and
Binghampton railroads, and is on the route of the New York
Central railroad.  The ground on which the city is built is generally level, and is intersected by broad, and, with but few exceptions, regular streets.  The chief building materials are brick
and stone.
The most important buildings are the hotels and churches.
Among the former may be mentioned the Syracuse house, Voorhees house, and Globe hotel.  There are twenty-three churches,
nineteen of which are Protestant, and four Roman Catholic.
The city contains two public halls of sufficient capacity to accommodate upwards of six thousand persons. It has also twelve large
public schools, twelve newspaper offices, and ten banks.
Syracuse has the greatest salt works in the United States.
The springs from which the salt is produced are owned by the
state.  Those engaged in its manufacture receive a lease from
the state government, by which they are bound to pay a duty of
one cent on every bushel produced, and to use the water for no
other than saline purposes.  The tax, formerly twelve and a half
cents per bushel, was afterward reduced to six, and finally to the
present rate.  Syracuse has a number of flour mills and manufactories of machinery, steam engines, and leather.  Population
in 1865, 33,000.
UTICA,
A finely built and prosperous city of Oneida county, on the
New York Central railroad, and on both sides of the Mohawk
river and the Erie canal, ninety-five miles west of Albany, and




TIHE MIDDLE STATES.                 197
three hun:dred and eighty-three minles north by east of Washington. It is connected with the St. Lawrence river by the Black
river railroad, and with Binghalmpton by the Chenango canal.
The ground on which the city is built is the site of old Fort
Schuyler, and is level with a single exception on the northern
side of the river.
Genesee street, the principal thoroughfare, contains the city
hall, a handsome Milwaukee brick building, other public buildings, and a large number of mercantile houses. The principal
hotels are the National house, Central house, and Bragg's hotel.
The city contains twenty-six churches, two fine academies, and
two public libraries. Utica is the seat of the state lunatic asylum, occupying a number of stone buildings in the western part
of the city. Of the five hundred and fourteen patients in this
institution in 1863, two hundred and sixty-two were males, and
two hundred and fifty-two females. The city, also, contains
eight newspaper publications, besides a number of periodicals,
and is extensively engaged in the manufacture of railway carriages, and organs.  Population in 1860, 22,529.
OSWEGO,
An important city of New York, and semi-capital of Oswego
county, is on the south-eastern shore of Lake Ontario, and is
the most important city of the United States on that body. The
city is on both sides of the Oswego river, which here enters the
lake. It is thirty-five miles north-east of Syracuse, and one
hundred and seventy miles west by north of Albany, and is the
northern terminus of the Syracuse and Oswego railroad. The
city is divided into two nearly equal parts by the river, which is
crossed by several substantial bridges.
Oswego is beautifully laid off, in a rich and fertile district,
and is intersected by streets frequently one hundred feet wide,
and crossing each other at right angles. The principal buildings are the city hall, custom house, and court house. The city
contains ten churches, two public libraries, five newspaper publications, a fine system of free schools, and five banks.




198                THE MIDDLE STATES.
The commerce of Oswego is rapidly increasing. The harbor,
formed by the mouth of the river, is one of the finest in the state.
A pier one thousand two hundred and fifty-nine feet long has
been built on the western bank of the river, and one two hundred feet long on the eastern, and other improvements made at
the expense of the United States government. Population of
the city in 1860, 16,816.
KINGSTON
Is a city and seat of justice of Ulster county, situated on the
western bank of the Hudson river, at the terminus of the Delaware and Hudson canal, fifty-five miles south of Albany, and
ninety miles north of New York. The city is connected with
Albany and New York by steamboats, and with the Hudson
river railroad by a steam ferry. It contains eight churches,
four banks, four newspaper offices, an excellent academy, and
has a large commerce in coal, stone, ice, lime, and cement. Population in 1860, 7,000.
NEWBURG,
A finely built city and semi-capital of Orange county, is beautifully situated among the highlands, on the western bank of the
Hudson river, eighty-four miles south of Albany, and sixty-one
miles north of New York. The ground on which the city is
built has a continual rise as it recedes from the river, and in
the outskirts of the city is three hundred feet high. Fishkill,
directly opposite Newburg, is connected with the latter city by
a steam ferry. By means of a branch railroad to Chester, railway communication is established between Newburg and all important cities on the Erie railway.  Newburg has a large number of elegant villas, and beautiful parks and gardens. It contains a number of foundries, tanneries, plaster mills, and manufactories of cotton, wool, machinery, etc. Large quantities of
grain, flour, and products of the dairy are exported.
Newburg contains a court house, twenty-three churches, four
newspaper offices, six banks, and numerous schools and academies.  Railway carriages and steam  engines are extensively
manufactured. It has forty-one thousand tons of shipping, and
carries on a large lumber trade. Population in 1860, 15,196.




THE MIDDLE STATES.                 199
YONKERS
Is a beautiful town on the eastern bank of the Hudson river,
seventeen miles north of New York.  The Hudson river railroad
passes through the town, which has also a number of steamboats,
establishing water communication with New York. It has ten
churches, several banks, four newspaper offices, and a number of
manufactories, mills, and foundries. It also contains male and
female schools, and academies.
Yonkers is a favorite summer resort for wealthy citizens of
New York and Brooklyn, who have established in and around the
town a number of splendid residences. Population in 1860,
11,848.  (See views of Yonkers.)
WEST POINT.
West Point, the seat of the United States Military Academy,
is on the western bank of the Hudson river, in Cornwall township, Orange county, fifty-two miles north of New York. The
site of the academy is an elevated and nearly circular plain,
from one hundred and seventy to one hundred and ninety feet
high, and about one mile in circuit. This national military seat
was established in 1802, by forty cadet artillerists and ten engineers, and is supported by the government. The tuition is free
-each pupil connected with the institution, however, being
obliged to serve the government eight years. The president is
allowed to send ten cadets to the academy, and each member of
congress, one; the latter from the districts which they represent.
No person under sixteen or above twenty-one years of age, is
allowed to enter. In 1808, six years after the academy was
founded, the school numbered one hundred and fifty-six; in
1812, two hundred and fifty, the latter being the largest number allowed in the academy at one time.  The course of study
embraces four years:  (1) Mathematics, engineering, fencing,
and bayonet exercises; (2) French, mathematics, fencing, tactics of infantry, cavalry and artillery; (3) natural philosophy,
chemistry, drawing and riding; (4) military and civil engineering, mineralogy, geology, chemistry, law, literature, practical
military engineering, tactics.




200                THE MIDDLE STATES.
West Point is picturesquely situated among the HTighlands,
on the summits of which are ruins of forts, where occurred many
important battles between the Americans and British, during
the revolutionary war. On one of these elevations, six hundred
feet high, is old Fort Putnam, " surrounded on three sides by
deep ravines and steep descents." Fortresses in the vicinity of
West Point were captured by the British in 1777, but abandoned after the surrender of Burgoyne. Stronger forts were
then constructed by the Americans, which the traitor, Arnold,
bargained to betray-a plot foiled by the arrest of Major Andre.
(See views at West Point.)
ELMIRA
Is a city of Chemung county, on the northern side of the Chemung river, on the route of the Erie railroad, two hundred and
seventy-seven miles west by north of New York. It is connected by railroad with Philadelphia, Baltimore and Harrisburg, on
the south, and is the southern terminus of the Rochester and
Elmira railroad, which connects the Erie with the northern tier
of the Central railroad. It is on the route of the Erie railroad,
which crosses the Chemung at this place, and is connected with
Seneca lake by the Chemung canal. The city contains a courthouse, a fine ladies' college, fifteen churches, four newspaper
publications, five hotels, six banks, a piano manufactory, and a
number of boot manufactories. Population, in 1865, 14,000.
(See views at Elmira.)
LITTLE FALLS,
A thriving town of Herkimer county, is picturesquely situated
in a narrow and romantic valley, on both sides of the Mohawk
river, seventy-five miles north-west of Albany, and two hundred
and fifty miles in the same direction from New York. The falls
of the Mohawk at this place afford abundant water-power to
the foundries and mills on its banks. "~ The Erie canal here
passes, by a deep cut in the solid rock, through a picturesque
defile, two miles in extent." (See views of Erie canal.) The
elevations on either side of the canal frequently reach a great
hight, and greatly resemble the Palisades of the Hudson. A




THE MIDDLE STATES.                  201
mass of rugged rock, in the outskirts of the town, is called Profile Rock. (See view of Profile Rock.) The town has eight
churches, two banks, and four newspaper offices. Population,
5,989.
SARATOGA SPRINGS
Is a fashionable watering place and summer resort in Saratoga county, in the eastern part of New York, thirty-eight miles
north of Albany, and one hundred and sixty-seven miles in the
same direction from New York. " Saratoga owes its celebrity
to its mineral springs, the surrounding scenery possessing few,
if any, extraordinary attractions." A single street, lined with
massive hotels, stores and elegant private residences, constitutes
the chief portion of the town. There are about twenty-three
springs, variously impregnated with iron, iodine, soda, magnesia,
etc., and all highly charged with carbonic acid.  Empire and
Iodine springs have been but recently discovered. Congress,
the most important of the springs at the present time, was discovered as early as 1792. The waters of High Rock spring,
discharged through a conical limestone rock, about five feet high,
are " strongly charged with carbonic acid gas."  These waters
are prescribed in cases of chronic dyspepsia, diseases of the
liver, etc.  Saratoga Springs is annually visited by from thirty
thousand to forty thousand pleasure-seekers and invalids, who
receive accommodations at a number of large and fashionable
hotels. Congress Hall, in the centre of a finely ornamented
enclosure, has a commodious piazza, across the entire front of
the building. Union Hall, though equaling the others in splendor and elegance, is in a more retired spot. There are also in
the town several concert halls and opera houses, much frequented by the fashionable circle. Population of the town in 1860,
7,496. (See views of Saratoga Springs.)
OWEGO.
Owego is a finely built and prosperous town of Tioga county,
New York, at the confluence of the Owego creek with the north
branch of the Susquehanna river. The Owego creek is crossed
at this place by the New York and Erie railway, about two




202                THE MIDDLE STATES.
hundred and forty miles from New York. The Cayuga and
Susquehanna railroad connects Owego with Ithaca. The town
contains eight churches, three newspaper offices, a large number
of stores, three banks, male and female academies, and numerous flour, plaster, cotton and woolen mills. Owego is extensively
engaged in the lumber trade. Incorporated as a town in 1827;
population, 5,000.  (See views of Owego.)
STAPLETON HIGHTS,
A thriving town of Richmond county, New York, picturesquely situated among the hights, on the north-eastern side of Staten
Island. It is seven miles south-west of New York, and five
miles in the same direction from Brooklyn. It contains several
churches, and some elegant private residences. It is, also, the
seat of a Seamen's Retreat, an immense three story building,
two hundred feet long, and fifty feet wide, erected at a cost of
one hundred thousand dollars. (See view of Stapleton Hights.)
PORT JERVIS,
A thriving town of Orange county, New York, on the Hudson
and Delaware canal and the Erie railroad, ninety-eight miles
north-west of New York. It has five churches, two banks, and
one engine house. Port Jervis is in a wild and picturesque region, surrounded by lofty elevations, the principal of which,
Kittatinny mountain, changes the course of the Delaware from
a south-westerly to a south-easterly direction.  Population,
about 4,000.  (See views at Port Jervis.)
In 1860, New York had two thousand seven hundred and one
miles of railroad, constructed at a cost of one hundred and
thirty-one millions three hundred and twenty thousand five hundred and forty-two dollars. The Hudson and Erie canal, commenced in 1817, and completed in 1825, is three hundred and
sixty-four miles long, and cost the state about seven millions of
dollars. In regard to education, New York holds a prominent
position among the United States. In 1860, the state contained
seventeen colleges, attended by two thousand nine hundred and
seventy students. The Normal School, at Albany, is attended




- THE MIDDLE STATES.                203
by about two hundred and seventy-five students annually. The
People's College, at Havana, Schuyler county, has property
valued at one hundred thousand dollars, and is attended by forty-five students. At Ithaca, is the Cornell University, named
in honor of Hon. E. Cornell, who donated five hundred thousand dollars to found the school, and the increase of a million
acres of land for its support. (See views of Cornell University.)
In 1860, New York contained three millions eight hundred
and eighty thousand seven hundred and thirty-five inhabitants,
of whom three millions eight hundred and thirty-one thousand
five hundred and ninety were white, forty-nine thousand and
four colored, and one hundred and forty-one Indians. There
are in the state five thousand and seventy-seven churches, eleven
thousand six hundred and twenty-one public schools, one thousand five hundred and twenty private schools, two hundred and
eight academies, seventeen colleges, and five hundred and fiftynine newspaper publications. The governor of New York receives four thousand dollars per annum for his services. The
senate consists of thirty-two, and the house of representatives
of one hundred and twenty-eight, members. New York sends
thirty one members to the national house of representatives, and
is entitled to thirty-three electoral votes for president.
NEW JERSEY.
New Jersey, one of the middle states, and one of the thirteen
original United States, lies between latitude 38~ 55' and 410
21' N., and longitude 730 58' and 750 29' W. It is bounded
on the north by New York, on the south and south-east by the
Delaware bay and river, on the east by New York, separated by
the Hudson river, and the Atlantic ocean, and on the west by
Pennsylvania and Delaware. Its greatest length is one hundred and sixty-seven miles; greatest breadth, ninety-six miles;
area, eight thousand three hundred and twenty square miles,
or five millions three hundred and twenty-four thousand eight
hundred acres.
New Jersey, as a general thing, is low and sandy. The northeastern portion of the state is traversed by a number of ridges,




204                 THE MIDDLE STATES.
variously known as Blue, Schooley's, Romapo, and Second
mountains. One of the grandest features of New Jersey scenery
is the Palisades, a wall of trap-rock rising abruptly from the
Hudson, to the hight of five hundred feet. One of the southern elevations of this ridge, is Bergen Hill, three miles west
of New York, in Hudson county.  (See views of Bergen Hill.)
The Nevisink Hills, rising four hundred and fifty feet above an
inlet of Raritan bay, are crowned with a light house, and commands an extensive and enchanting prospect.
The principal rivers, beside the Hudson and Delaware, are
the Raritan, Hackensack and Passaic rivers.  The Raritan,
formed by the confluence of the north and south branches, in
Somerset county, pours into the Raritan bay, after a course of
thirty-three miles, about one-half of which distance is navigable
for steamboats.  The Hackensack, rising in Rockland county,
New York, and emptying into Newark bay, New Jersey, is navigable for sloops for fifteen miles from its mouth. The Passaic
river rises in Morris county, and, after a north-easterly course
of one hundred miles, enters Newark bay, thirteen miles from
Paterson. The scenery near the mouth of the river is highly
picturesque. At Paterson, the river has a perpendicular pitch
of fifty feet, and a total descent of seventy-two feet. During
certain seasons of the year, the volume of water precipitated is
small; but the falls have at all times a wild and romantic aspect.
(See views of Passaic Falls.) In Warren county, there is a
beautiful mountain lake, about two miles in circuit, and found
at an elevation of one thousand four hundred feet.
The climate of New Jersey is mild, the soil north of the pine
plains fertile, and the country healthy, with the exception of the
malarious river bottoms. The northern part of the state is
adapted to both tilling and pasturage. The staple productions
are wheat, maize, oats, Irish and sweet potatoes, apples, peaches,
plums, etc. The state has about twenty-four thousand farms,
which produced in 1860, one million seven hundred and sixtythree thousand one hundred and twenty-eight bushels of wheat;
nine millions seven hundred and twenty-three thousand three




THE MIDDLE STATES.                 205
hundred and thirty-six bushels of corn, four millions five hundred and thirty-nine thousand one hundred and thirty-two bushels of oats, one hundred and forty-nine thousand four hundred
and eighty-five pounds of tobacco, three hundred and forty-nine
thousand two hundred and fifty pounds of wool, and five hundred
and eight thousand seven hundred and twenty-six tons of hay.
Trenton is the capital.  Other important cities are Newark,
Jersey City, Paterson, Camden, Elizabeth, New Brunswick,
and Hoboken.
TRENTON,
The capital of the state, and seat of justice of Mercer county,
is on the eastern bank of the Delaware river, fifty-seven miles
south-west of New York, and thirty miles north-east of Philadelphia. It is regularly laid off on somewhat uneven ground,
and is intersected by, with few exceptions, straight streets, intersecting each other at right angles. Four railroads radiate
from  the city, and the Delaware and Raritan canal passes
through the town.
Main street, the chief thoroughfare, contains the greater portion of the business buildings.  State street crosses Main street
at right angles, and contains the capitol, a handsome stone
structure one hundred feet long and sixty feet wide, and many
of the finest residences. Besides the capitol, the court house, a
brick building, with a Grecian portico, penitentiary and state
lunatic asylum are the principal buildings. Two bridges cross
the Delaware at this place, one about a mile below and the other
within the limits of the city. The latter is eleven hundred feet
long.  Trenton contains twenty churches, three banks, four
paper mills, two rolling mills, and two Wire factories.  Population in 1860, 17,228.
NEWARIK,
The largest city of New Jersey, and seat of justice of Essex
county, is on the right bank of the Passaic river, twelve miles
east by south of New York, on the New Jersey railroad.  The
site of the city is level, with the exception of an elevation extending entirely across the western suburbs of the city. Broad




206                THE MIDDLE STATES.
street, the principal thoroughfare, is two miles long, one hundred and thirty-two feet wide, and borders upon three fine public
parks, shaded by beautiful elms.
The most important public buildings are the court house, a
rich brown stone structure, in the Egyptian style, on the corner
of Market and High streets, the custom house and post office,
occupying an immense stone building, erected at a cost of one
hundred and fifty thousand dollars, and the city hall. There
are many elegant churches in the city, of which the Methodist,
on Market street, the First Baptist, on Academy street, and the
Catholic, on Washington, High, Warren, and Lafayette streets,
are the most important.  Newark contains seventy-five churches,
five banks, forty public schools, nine newspaper publications,
and five hundred and forty-seven manufacturing establishments,
producing annually twenty-five millions of dollars.  Population
iin 1860, 71,941.
JERSEY CITY,
Next to Newark, the largest city in New Jersey, is the seat
of justice of Hudson county, on the western bank of the Hudson river, directly opposite New York.  Five railroads, viz:
Union, New Jersey, Morris and Essex, Easton, and Northern,
radiate from the city, establishing an unrivaled line of communication with every section of the state. The Morris canal, for
coal transport, extends from Jersey City to Easton, in Pennsylvania.
Jersey City is regularly laid off, with fine, broad streets,
lighted with gas. There are about twenty churches in the city,
one of the finest of which formerly stood in Wall street, New
York, but was removed and built up stone by stone, on its present site. Large and powerful steamboats, lighted with gas, ply
between New York and Jersey City, night and day.  The city
receives a supply of water from the Passaic river, seven miles
distant, by means of water works, constructed at a cost of about
six hundred thousand dollars. The distributing reservoir is on
Bergen Hill, two miles from the city. The city has several
seminaries, a high'school, two newspaper offices, two banks, and




THE MIDDLE STATES.                 207
a number of manufactories of machinery, locomotives, glass,
crucibles, etc. Population in 1860, 29,226.  (See views of
Jersey City.)
PATERSON,
A city and seat of justice of Passaic county, New Jersey, is on
the southern bank of the Passaic river, seventeen miles northwest of New York. It is on the line of the Union railroad,
which connects it with New York city, and, also, with Goshen,
on the Erie railway.  The city is finely built, and is intersected
by broad and well paved streets, generally direct, and lighted
with gas. A short distance above Paterson, the Passaic river
has a fall of seventy-two feet, affording a valuable hydraulic
power, which has been greatly improved by the construction of
a dam and several canals. The city contains fifteen churches,
two newspaper offices, one bank, a number of large hotels, an
academy, twenty cotton mills, a number of manufactories of
locomotives, machinery, carriages, paper, etc., and an establishment manufacturing five thousand and five hundred pounds of
silk monthly.  Population in 1860, 19,506.  (See views of
Paterson.)
CAMDEN,
A  city of New Jersey, and capitol of Camden county, is
directly opposite Philadelphia, on the eastern bank of the Delaware river, thirty-two miles south-west of Trenton, and eightyseven miles from New York.  The city is finely laid off on an
undulating plain, and contains a large number of elegant public
buildings, and handsome private residences.  It is connected
with Philadelphia by steam ferries, and is the terminus of the
Cape May, West Jersey, and Milville railroads. The city contains fifteen churches, three newspaper publications, a court
house, an insurance office, two saw-mills, two iron foundries, and
several ship yards. Population in 1865, 18,000.
ELIZABETH,
A city and seat of justice of Union county, New Jersey, is
fifteen miles south-west of New York, at the junction of the




208                THE MIDDLE STATES.
Central with the New Jersey railroad.  The city was formerly
known as Elizabethtown, and was the capital of the state. It is
finely laid off, with broad and regular streets, on a plain considerably elevated above the sea. It contains twenty churches,
two banks, an insurance office, three newspaper offices, a fine
system of schools, and a large number of manufactories.  Population in 1865, 13,500.
NEW BRUNSWICK,
A city and seat of justice of Middlesex county, New Jersey,
is on the right bank of the Raritan river, thirty miles south-west
of New York. It is on the line of the New Jersey railroad,
which crosses the Raritan at this place, and is the eastern terminus of the Delaware and Raritan canal, a channel seventyfive feet wide and seven feet deep, extending to Bordentown.
Rutger's college, a dark red free-stone structure, founded in
1770, is one of the finest buildings in the city. New Brunswick
contains fifteen churches, several female academies, a theological
seminary, five newspaper offices, and three banks. Population
in 1865, 13,500.
HOBOKEN,
A city, and port of entry of Hudson county, is on the western
bank of the Hudson river, one and one-half miles north of Jersey City, and opposite New York, with which it is connected by
steam ferries. It has beautiful pleasure grounds, called " Elysian Fields," is a great summer resort, and is rapidly becoming
an important town. It contains twelve churches, three newspaper publications, three banks, and twenty hotels.  Two lines
of European steamboats depart from this port. Population in
1865, 12,500.  (See views of Hoboken.)
In 1860, New Jersey contained six hundred and seventy-two
thousand and thirty five inhabitants, of whom six hundred and
forty-six thousand six hundred and ninety-nine were white, twenty-five thousand three hundred and eighteen free colored, and
eighteen slaves. The state contains one thousand one hundred
and twenty-three churches, two hundred and fifty-one academies,




THE MIDDLE STATES.                209
one thousand four hundred and ninety-six public schools, about
one hundred public libraries, containing four hundred and thirty-three thousand three hundred and twenty-one volumes; one
hundred newspaper publications, twenty-one cotton and fortyone woollen factories, one hundred and nineteen iron foundries,
with extensive manufactories of machinery, locomotives, carriages, glass, boots, etc. The governor of the state receives one
thousand eight hundred dollars per annum for his services. The
senate consists of twenty, and the house of representatives of
sixty, members. New Jersey sends five members to the national
house of representatives, and is entitled to seven electoral votes
for president.
PENNSYLVANIA.
Pennsylvania, one of the thirteen original, and, next to New
York, the most populous of the United States, lies between latitude 990 43' and 42~ 15' N., and longitude 740 75' and 80~
37' W. It is bounded on the north by New York and Lake
Erie; on the south by Delaware, Maryland and West Virginia; on the north-east by New York; on the east by New
Jersey; and on the west by Ohio and West Virginia. It is
three hundred and ten miles long, and one hundred and sixty
miles wide, including an area of forty-six thousand square miles,
or twenty-nine millions four hundred and forty thousand acres.
The Alleghany mountain range passes entirely across the
state from north to south, forming the water-shed between the
basin of the Ohio and the rivers which flow into the Atlantic
ocean. The Blue mountains, the eastern ridge of the Alleghanies, extend first in a north-easterly direction, about one-third
of the distance across the state, when they bend to the eastnorth-east, and enter New Jersey.  The Delaware river here
bursts through a deep and narrow gorge two miles long, and is
walled in by almost perpendicular precipices, one thousand six
hundred feet high, forming the Delaware Water Gap, one of
the most remarkable curiosities in the state. (See views of Delaware Water Gap.) Chestnut ridge, the most western range of
14




210               THE MIDDLE STATES.
the Alleghanies, and Laurel ridge, reach no great hight, but are
well defined mountain chains. The Broad mountains extend
from the center of Carbon county, through Schuylkill into Dauphin county. Broad Top mountain, a peak of the Alleghanies,
lies between Bedford and Huntington counties. This mountain
contains rich beds of coal, from three to eight feet thick.  On
the summit of the mountain, is the Broad Top Mountain House,
a delightful summer retreat in the heart of the coal region.
(See views among the Alleghanies.)
The principal rivers, besides the Delaware, which forms the
eastern boundary, are the Susquehanna and its branches, the
Schuylkill and Lehigh, in the eastern part of the state, and Alleghany and Monongahela in the western part. The Susquehanna, formed by the confluence of the west with the north
branch, one mile above Sunbury, has a course of one hundred
and fifty miles, and empties into the northern extremity of Chesapeake bay. It contains a large number of picturesque islands,
and is obstructed by rapids, which, at high water, render navigation difficult. The northern branch of the river originates in
Otsego lake, in Otsego county, New York, and has a winding
course of two hundred and fifty miles. The western branch
originates in Cambria county, Pennsylvania, and has a course
of two hundred miles. The Juniata river, formed by the confluence of the Little Juniata with the Frankstown branch, is
one hundred and fifty miles long, and empties into the Susquehanna, twelve miles above Harrisburg.  The Little Juniata rises
in Blair county, and is thirty miles long. The scenery along
the banks of the Juniata is in the highest degree grand and
beautiful. The mountains, on either side of the river, frequently
rise to the hight of one thousand five hundred feet. (See views
on the Juniata.)  The Schuylkill river, signifying "hidden
creek," rises among the highlands in Schuyler county, and pours
into the Delaware, five miles below Philadelphia, after a course
of one hundred and twenty miles. The Lehigh river, originating in the lowlands of Luzerne and Pike counties, flows through
a picturesque and beautiful region, and enters the Delaware at
Easton, after a course of ninety miles. The Lackawaxen river,




THE MIDDLE STATES.                 211
rising in Wayne county, passes through one of the wildest and
most picturesque regions in the state.  It drains the Wallenpaupack creek, and enters the Delaware in Pike county.  The Wallenpaupack river, in a narrow, deep, and rocky channel, has a
beautiful descent in falls and cascades, which deserves the attention of all lovers of the picturesque.  (See views of Wallenpaupack falls.) The Alleghany river rises in Potter county, Pennsylvania, flows north through Cattaraugus county, New York,
and bending south, again enters Pennsylvania, and unites with
the Monongahela, at Pittsburgh, forming the Ohio.  The Monongahela river is formed by the junction of the West Fork and
Tygart's Valley rivers, in Marion county, West Virginia, and
has a length from this point of one hundred and fifty miles.
The iron and coal mines of Pennsylvania far surpass those of
any other state.   The great anthracite and semi-anthracite
deposits of coal are east of the Alleghanies; and west are the
great beds of bituminous coal, which largely supply the Mississippi valley.  In the latter districts are large deposits of petroleum. In the vicinity of Philadelphia are extensive quarries of
fine white marble.
The climate of the state is mild, and the soil fertile.  The
staple productions are wheat, Indian corn, rye, oats, buckwheat,
potatoes, hemp, flax, tobacco, hay, fruits, etc. In 1860, Pennsylvania produced thirteen millions forty-five thousand two hundred and thirty-one bushels of wheat, twenty-eight millions one
hundred and ninety-six thousand eight hundred and twenty-one
bushels of corn, twenty-seven millions three hundred and eightyseven thousand one hundred and forty-seven bushels of oats, and
three millions one hundred and eighty-one thousand five hundred
and eighty-six pounds of tobacco. According to the manufacturing statistics of 1860, the amount of capital invested was one
hundred and eighty-nine millions of dollars; value of raw material used, one hundred and forty-five millions and three hundred thousand dollars; value of the annual product, two hundred
and eighty-five millions and five hundred thousand dollars.
Harrisburg, the sixth city in size in the state, is the capital,
and Philadelphia is the largest city.  Pittsburg, Alleghany




212                THE MIDDLE STATES.
city, Reading, and Lancaster city are the other most important
towns.
HARRISBURG,
Capital of Pennsylvania, and also of Dauphin county, is
pleasantly situated on the west bank of the Susquehanna river,
one hundred and ten miles north of Washington. The capitol,
occupying an elevation in the center of the city, and containing
a valuable library, and the court-house, are the principal public
buildings.  The city has eighteen churches, six newspaper publications, ten public schools, a male and female seminary, four
banks, and a county prison.  Population, in 1865, about 20,000.
PHILADELPHIA,
The chief city of Pennsylvania, and, next to New York, the
most populous in the United States, is on a peninsula formed
by the confluence of the Schuylkill with the Delaware river, one
hundred and thirty-six miles north-east of Washington, and
eighty-seven miles south-west of New York.  The ground on
which the city is built, though generally level, is slightly elevated
towards the north.  The original plan of its founder, William
Penn, though at the time followed to an extent, has, by succeeding generations, been wholly disregarded.  The ten chief streets
of the city extend from river to river, and are intersected at
right angles by upwards of twenty-five others. The streets vary
from fifty to one hundred and twenty-feet in width.  The city
is divided into four nearly equal parts, by Broad street, running
north and south, and Market street, extending across the peninsula from east to west. At the intersection of the latter streets
is a fine public park, divided by these thoroughfares into four
sections. Each quarter of the city also contains a fine park.
The city is between five and six miles on the Delaware, two
and one half miles on the Schuylkill, and covers an area of ten
square miles. The narrowest portion of the peninsula is two
miles wide, and it is here that the most compact and business
portion of the city is found.  Chestnut street, containing the
custom house and United States mint, Third street and Market
street are the chief business thoroughfares.




THE MIDDLE STATES.                 213
Among the public buildings, the state house, a plaiu brick
edifice, in Independence square, on Chestnut street, demands
universal attention. It was in the east wing of' this building
that congress convened and issued the declaration of independence, July 4th, 1776 —a circumstance, which, connected as it
is with the birth of our nation, has rendered it a national object
of respect and interest. The east and west wings are connected
by corridors, and the whole is surmounted by a dome, containing a town clock and an alarm bell. The custom house is a fine
edifice of the Doric order, one hundred and sixty feet long,
eighty-seven feet wide, and constructed at a cost of five hundred
thousand dollars. The United States mint, on Chestnut street,
is two hundred and twenty feet long, one hundred and twenty
feet wide, and cost two hundred thousand dollars. The merchants' exchange is a rich marble edifice, one hundred and fourteen feet long, ninety-five feet wide, and containing, besides the
great hall of the exchange, insurance and other offices. The
Girard college buildings, constructed of white marble, surpass in
beauty of architecture all other structures in the city.  The
entire cost of the buildings, including the grounds, was upwards
of two millions of dollars, which sum was left the city by Stephen
Girard, a Philadelphia merchant.
Philadelphia has a large number of excellent hotels. Of these,
the Continental house, American house, and Washington house,
on Chestnut street, Union house on Arch, and Merchants' house
on Fourth street are the most important.
The Pennsylvania hospital, established in 1752, occupies a
square at the intersection of Pine, Eighth, Spruce and Ninth,
streets. There are several buildings in this square belonging to
the institution, one of which, the chief structure, is two hundred
and eighty-two feet long, and all are constructed of brick. There
are in the city fifteen military hospitals, with accommodations
for upwards of fourteen thousand patients.
Among the principal libraries are the Philadelphia library,
and American philosophical society, founded by Benjamin Franklin, the former containing eighty thousand, and the latter twenty
thousand volumes.




214                THE MIDDLE STATES.
Among the churches, the Catholic cathedral of St. Peter and
St. Paul, greatly surpasses in architectural beauty all others in
the city. This imposing edifice, constructed of red sandstone,
is in Logan square, fronting on Eighteenth street. In front are
four Corinthian columns, sixty feet high, with a tower at each
angle of one hundred and ten degrees, the whole surmounted by
a dome, the apex of which is two hundred and ten feet above
the ground. The other important churches are Christ's church,
St. Mark's church, a red sandstone structure, one hundred and
fifty feet long, ninety feet wide, and crowned with a lofty tower
and spire, Church of the Holy Trinity, Church of Calvary, and
Baptist church.
Among the educational establishments of the city may be
mentioned the Academy of the Episcopal church, Philadelphia
academy, and Theological seminary, the latter two of which are
Catholic institutions.  There are also a girls' and a boys' high
school, the former of which, on Sargeant street, is under the
direction of a male principal and nine female assistants.  The
latter, established in 1837, is on Broad street, and has an average attendance of four hundred and seventy students. This
building has a fine observatory, in which is a powerful telescope.
Connected with the institution are fourteen professors, on sala-ries of one thousand two hundred dollars each.
Philadelphia is supplied with water by the Fairmount water
works, located on the Schuylkill river, two miles north-east of
the state house.  By means of a dam across the river, eight
wheels are turned, which work as many pumps. The water is
received in four large reservoirs, on anl eminence near the river,
and from thence is conveyed through pipes to other reservoirs
in different parts of the city.
The city has three hundred and sixty-five churches, fifty periodicals, forty weekly and twelve daily publications, sixty grammar schools, three hundred schools of lower grade, twenty-five
banks, eight savings banks, five theatres, and a state penitentiary.  It has manufactories of iron, machinery, cotton and




THE MIDDLE STATES.                 215
woollen goods, boots, shoes, furniture, etc., amounting annually
to one hundred and seventy-five millions of dollars.  Population
in 1860, 565,531.  (See views of Philadelphia.)
PITTSBURG,
An important city of Pennsylvania, and seat of justice of
Alleghany county, is at the confluence of the Alleghany and
Monongahela rivers, which here unite to form the Ohio, five
hundred and thirty-seven miles west of Philadelphia. Though
there are considerable elevations along the rivers and in the
western suburbs, the general character of the site of the city is
level. When the town was laid off, the streets were made to
follow the general direction of the rivers; consequently the
cross-streets meet obliquely, a few blocks from the Monongahela.
The numerous factories and foundries of the city, send forth
columns of smoke, which fill the air for miles around, cover
the buildings with soot, and give the city a dreary aspect.
From this fact, Pittsburg has been appropriately styled the
Birmingham of America.  Directly across the Alleghany river,
on the north, is Alleghany city, and on the opposite side of the
Monongahela, is Birmingham, both of which cities might justly
be regarded as extensions of Pittsburg.
Among the public buildings, the court house, on the summit
of an elevation in the western part of the city, holds a conspicuous place. This building, constructed of stone, in the Doric
order, is one hundred and sixty-five feet long, one hundred feet
wide, and surmounted by a dome, which rises one hundred and
forty-eight feet above the ground. The custom house, recently
erected on the corner of Smithfield and Fifth streets, is a freestone structure of the Grecian order, constructed at a cost of one
hundred and fifteen thousand dollars. Among the other important buildings may be mentioned the Monongahela house, one of
the finest hotels in the United States, the Catholic cathedral, an
imposing brick edifice, on the corner of Grant and Fifth streets,
surmounted by a lofty spire, and the Episcopal church of St.
Peter, on Grant street, directly opposite the court house.




216                THE MIDDLE STATES.
Pittsburg is situated among the richest deposits of iron and
bituminous coal in the United States. Sixty-five companies in
the city produce yearly one million six hundred thousand tons
of coal. There are in the city sixteen foundries, twenty-four
iron and steel manufactories, several rolling mills, six cotton
mills, and numerous manufactories of steam engines, boilers,
nails, files, etc. Population in 1860, 49,220.
ALLEGHANY,
A city of Pennsylvania, is on the Alleghany river, directly
opposite Pittsburg, with which it is closely connected in commercial and social interest.  Three fine bridges, and a suspension aqueduct, extend across the river between the two cities.
Among the important buildings, may be mentioned the western
penitentiary of Pennsylvania, a large stone building, constructed
in the ancient Norman style, on Ohio street, the western Pennsylvania hospital, an imposing brick edifice in the eastern part
of the city, and the house of industry, on Washington street.
Alleghany has fifteen churches, two theological seminaries, a
fine system of public schools, three national banks, one hundred
and twenty manufactories, and a large number of foundries.
READING,
An important city of Pennsylvania, and seat of justice of
Berks county, is on the east bank of the Schuylkill river,
fifty-two miles north-east of Philadelphia. The city is handsomely laid off on an undulating plain, and is intersected by wide
and regular streets.
Prominent among the public buildings is the court-house, having a commanding situation, and adorned with a sandstone
portico. Among the churches, the Episcopal church, a beautiful sandstone edifice, surmounted by a steeple two hundred feet
high, and the Germans' Lutheran church, are the most important. Reading is on the Philadelphia, Reading, and Pottsville
railroad, and is the terminus of the Lebanon Valley railroad.
The city has twenty-three churches, eight newspaper offices,
several public libraries, an academy, four banks, two rolling




THE MIDDLE STATES.                 217
mills, two flouring mills, a cotton mill, steam forges, and several
foundries. It is also extensively engaged in the manufacture of
machinery, steam engines, etc. Population in 1860, 23,162.
LANCASTER,
A finely built and important city of Pennsylvania, and seat
of justice of Lancaster county, is seventy miles west of Philadelphia, on the Pennsylvania Central railroad.  The city is
regularly laid off, and is crossed by broad, and with few exceptions, direct streets. Wood and brick are the chief materials
used in building.
The most important public buildings are the court house and
county prison, both recently erected, the former in the Grecian
style, and each costing in the vicinity of one hundred and twenty-five thousand dollars. The city contains a fine college, fifteen
churches, ten newspaper publications, two public libraries, four
banks, and manufactories of threshing machines, locomotives,
carriages, rifles, axes, etc. Population in 1860, 17,603.
In 1860, Pennsylvania had two millions nine hundred and six
thousand one hundred and fifteen inhabitants, of whom two millions eight hundred and forty-nine thousand two hundred and
sixty-six were white, and fifty-six thousand eight hundred and
forty-nine were colored. The state contains twenty-six colleges,
twenty state academies, three hundred and thirty-five public
schools, four thousand churches, about four hundred libraries,
eight schools of medicine, and three hundred and ten periodical
publications. The governor of Pennsylvania is elected for three
years, and receives a salary of three thousand dollars per annum.
The senate consists of thirty-three and the house of representatives of one hundred members. In 1862 there was in the state
ninety-four banks, with an aggregate capital of twenty-five millions nine hundred and seventeen thousand six hundred and
fifty dollars.
DELAWARE.
Delaware, one of the thirteen original states, the smallest of
the middle, and, next to Rhode Island. the smallest of the United States, lies between latitude 380 28t and 390 50' north, and




218                THE MIDDLE STATES.
longitude 750 and 750 45' west.  The eastern shore of the state
is washed by the Atlantic ocean and the Delaware river and bay,
the latter of which separates Delaware from New Jersey.  Pennsylvania bounds the state on the north, and Maryland on the
south and west. Length of the state, ninety-six miles; greatest breadth, thirty-seven miles; area, two thousand one hundred
and twenty square miles, or one million three hundred and fiftysix thousand acres.
The surface of Delaware, as a general thing, is level, no elevations being found of sufficient altitude to be called mountains.
The northern portion of the state is traversed by ranges of hills,
and in the western part is a marshy elevation, partaking of the
nature of a table land. The southern and central portions are
low and level. The soil in this section is poor, consisting of a
mixture of sand and clay. The most fertile districts occur in
the north, and on the Delaware river and bay.  The chief productions are Indian corn, wheat, rye, barley, buckwheat, hemp,
flax, hops, honey, butter, etc.
Besides the Delaware, the most important rivers are Brandywine and Christiana, flowing into the Delaware river, Indian
river, flowing into the Atlantic ocean, and Nanticoke and Choptank, flowing into the Chesapeake bay. The Delaware river
rises in New York, on the western slope of the Catskills, and,
after a course of three hundred miles, enters Delaware bay, an
arm of the Atlantic.  The river is navigable for large vessels
as far as Philadelphia, and for steamboats to the head of tidewater, at Trenton.
Delaware has six hundred and fifteen manufacturing establishments, employing a capital of five millions three hundred
sixty thousand dollars, and having an annual income of nine
millions nine hundred and twenty thousand dollars. The commerce of Delaware is small, the trade of her cities being monopolized by the more important ones of Philadelphia and Baltimore.
The chief exports are flour, grain, fruits, lumber, and sand.
Besides Dover, the capital, and Wilmington, the largest city,
the places of any importance are Milford, Newcastle, and
Smyrna.




THE MIDDLE STATES.                 219
DOVER,
The capital of the state, and also of Kent county, is on the
Jones river and Delaware railroad, fifty miles north of Wilmington. It has a fine state house, four churches, and three large
hotels. Population, 1,289.
WILMINGTON,
Chief city of Delaware, is in Newcastle county, on the Christiana creek, twenty-eight miles south-West of Philadelphia. It
contains a custom house, twenty-three churches, a Catholic college, a fine library, four private and nine public schools, seven
banks, six large machine shops, and a number of iron foundries,
rolling and saw mills, and cotton factories. Population in 1860,
21,256.
MILFORD
Is a thriving town of Kent county, on the Mispillion creek,
twenty-one miles south-east of Dover. It contains five churches,
an academy, two banks, a newspaper office, a public library, and
a ship yard. Population, 1,763.
NEWCASTLE
Is a city and seat of justice of Newcastle county, on the
Delaware river, five miles south of Wilmington. It has eight
churches, a court house, a public library, a bank, and manufactories of locomotives, machinery, etc. Population, 1,902.
SMYRNA
Is a thriving town of Kent county, thirty-six miles south of
Wilmington, containing manufactories of carriages, a newspaper
office and bank, five churches and three hotels.  Population,
2,153.
In 1860, Delaware had one hundred and twelve thousand two
hundred and sixteen inhabitants, of whom ninety thousand five
hundred and eighty-nine were white, nineteen thousand eight
hundred and twenty-nine free colored, and one thousand seven
hundred and ninety-eight slaves. Delaware has two hundred
and twenty churches, one college, two hundred and fifty-six public




220                THE MIDDLE STATES.
schools, forty academies, and one hundred and fourteen libraries, containing eighty-eight thousand four hundred and seventy
volumes. The governor of Delaware is elected for four years,
on a salary of one thousand three hundred and thirty-three dollars, and is not allowed to be re-elected. The senate consists of
nine, and the house of representatives of twenty-one, members.
Delaware sends one member to the national house of representatives, and is entitled to three electoral votes for president.




CHAPTER III.
THE SOUTHERN STATES.
MARYLAND.
Maryland is one of the thirteen original states, and the most
northern of the southern states of which it is the smallest. It
lies between latitude 38~ and 390 44' N., and between longitude
750 10' and 790 39' W. It is bounded on the north by Pennsylvania, on the east by Delaware and the Atlantic ocean, and
on the south and west by Virginia.
The outline of Maryland is very irregular. Its northern
boundary has an extent of one hundred and ninety miles, but
on the west side it contracts until its southern boundary is
scarcely half that extent.  The coast line of this state, including
that of Chesapeake bay, is four hundred and eleven miles, without which it is only thirty-three miles.
The eastern portion of this state is level and the soil sandy.
The mountainous portion is in the north-west part of the state,
between the Potomac river and the Pennsylvania line. This
section is crossed by several ridges of the Alleghanies. The
coal, copper and iron mines of Maryland are productive.
The Chesapeake bay extends into the state about one hundred
and twenty miles, varying in width from seven to ten miles. It
divides the state into two parts, known as the eastern and western shore. A number of navigable rivers empty into this bay,
the most important of which is the Potomac, being navigable for
large vessels as far as Alexandria. The others are the Susquehanna, Potoxent, Patapsco, Elk, Chester, Chopotank, Nanticoke, and Pocomoke, all of which are navigable for small vessels.
The falls of the Potomac are about fourteen miles above Georgetown; the perpendicular hight is not very great, being only about
forty feet, but the beauty of the scene is hightened by the perpendicular cliffs on the Virginia side.




222               THE SOUTHERN STATES.
The staple productions are tobacco, wheat, and Indian cornl
The forests are composed of a great variety of trees.
Maryland has a great amount of capital employed in various
manufactures, producing forty-one millions seven hundred and
thirty-five thousand one hundred and sixty dollars' worth of
goods annually. It is the sixth state in the United States in
commercial importance, being connected with Pennsylvania
and southern New York by the Susquehanna river; with the
west by Ohio and Baltimore railroad and the Ohio and Chesapeake canal, and the north-east by the Delaware and Ohio canal.
Maryland possesses great facilities for internal as well as foreign commerce.
The chief cities are Baltimore, Cumberland, Fredric City and
Annapolis.
BALTIMORE,
The largest city of Maryland, has a population of two hundred
and twelve thousand four hundred and eighteen. It is situated
on the Patapsco river, about twelve miles from Chesapeake bay.
The site of Baltimore is probably more picturesque than any
other city in the union. It covers a number of eminences which
furnish a pleasing variety for the tourist. From Washington
monument, which is situated on a hill, a most beautiful panorama is spread out before the beholder. Baltimore has been
called, from the number of its monuments, the " Monumental
City." The most imposing of these is the Washington monument, which has a base fifty feet square and twenty feet high,
supporting a column one hundred and seventy-six and a half
feet in hight, crowned by a statue of Washington sixteen feet
high.  The summit of the monument is three hundred and
twelve feet above the level of the harbor. It is constructed of
white marble, and cost two hundred thousand dollars. Battle
monument is also a beautiful structure of white marble; the
base is square and finely ornamented; on it rests a facial column
eighteen feet high, on the bands of which are inscribed the names
of those who were killed while defending the city from the attack




THE SOUTHERN STATES.                223
of the British in 1814. This column is surmounted by the Goddess of Liberty, seven and a half feet high.  The Merchants'
shot tower, the highest in the world, having an elevation of two
hundred and forty-six feet, is also an object of interest to tourists.  The Baltimore court house is a handsome structure two
stories high, sixty-five feet wide and one hundred and forty-five
feet long, constructed at a cost of one hundred and fifty thousand
dollars. The United States court house is a handsome edifice
built of granite. The Roman Catholic cathedral, a massive
granite structure, is the most imposing church edifice in Baltimore. The total number of churches in the city is one hundred
and sixty-one.
Among the literary and educational institutions, are the University of Maryland, Logola college, Baltimore college, and the
Theological school. The athenaeum has a library of nineteen
thousand volumes. The Baltimore library has fifteen thousand
volumes.  The Maryland historical society has a collection of
one thousand volumes, and in the gallery belonging to this
society, are annually held exhibitions of painting and sculpture.
There are about twenty-five newspaper publications, of which
eight are dailies. The benevolent institutions of Baltimore, are
the Maryland hospital for the insane, Mount Hope institution,
the Church Home and Infirmary, five orphan asylums, and an
alms-house.  The state penitentiary, with the jail, occupies one
square.  There are eighty-two public schools, including the
primaries, with an attendance of fifteen thousand six hundred and
sixty-one scholars. Baltimore supports a great number of hotels,
of which the city hotel, and Eutah house, are first-class.
Druid hill park encloses five hundred and forty-eight acres of
land, situated just beyond the northern limits of the city. In
Patterson's park are thirty-six acres, embracing the earthworks
thrown up for the defense of the city during the war of 1812.
Baltimore ranks among the first cities of the United States in
commercial importance.
CUMBERLAND,
The county seat of Alleghany county, is situated on the
Potomac river, and on the Ohio and Baltimore railroads, and




224               THE SOUTHERN STATES.
about one hundred and eighty miles from Baltimore. It has a
population of 8,478. It contains the county buildings, three
banks, three printing offices, and a savings institution.
FREDRIC CITY,
Shire town of Fredric county, in wealth, population and commercial importance, takes the third rank in the state. It has a
population of 8,142. It contains a handsome court-house, six
tanneries, three banks, a college, an academy, two printing
offices and eleven churches.
ANNAPOLIS,
The capital of Maryland, has a population of about 5,000.
It is situated on the Severns river, about two miles from Chesapeake bay. In Annapolis are six churches, a bank, markethouse, a fine state house, and two printing offices, from which
are issued three newspapers.
The governor of Maryland holds his office four years, and
has a salary of three thousand and six hundred dollars, with the
use of a furnished house. The house of representatives consists of seventy-four members, and the senate of twenty-two.
These, with the governor, are elected by the people.
DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA.
In 1790, Maryland and Virginia ceded one hundred square
miles, situated on both sides of the Potomac river, to the United
States.  This tract was called the District of Columnbia.  It was
designed for the site of the capital of the Republic, and, accordingly, a city was laid out and public buildings erected. The
name of the city thus founded was Washington, and in 1800,
the seat of government was removed thereto from Philadelphia.
During the war of 1812, the British entered the city, burned
the capitol, together with the library of congress, and the presidential mansion.  These were rebuilt on the Maryland side of
the Potomac, and the portion of the District on the Virginia
side was retroceded to that state.




THE SOUTHERN STATES.                225
The District of Columbia is under the government of the
United States congress, in which it has no representative, and is
allowed no vote for the president.  Georgetown and Washington
are the only cities in the district.  They are about two miles
apart, and are separated by Rock creek.
GEORGETOWN
Is beautifully situated on a range of hills, the most elevated
of which are called the Hights. (See views of Georgetown.)
These eminences, which are occupied by handsome villas, command a view of Washington, the Potomac, Oak Hill cemetery,
and an almost illimitable expanse of country. The Alexandria
branch of the Ohio and Chesapeake canal is carried across the
Potomac at Georgetown, by means of an enormous aqueduct
one thousand four hundred and forty-six feet long and thirty-six
feet above ordinary water level.
Georgetown is chiefly distinguished for its refined society and
great literary advantages.  The most important institution is
the college, under the control of the Catholics, connected with
which is a female academy, under management of the nuns,
and a botanical garden. A United States hospital for soldiers
is erected here. Georgetown being the only port in the District
of Columbia, is important as a commercial town. It is situated
at the head of navigation upon the Potomac, about one hundred
and twenty-five miles from its mouth. Its trade in flour is supplied by fifty mills. It is one of the greatest markets in the
United States for shad and herring, of which vast quantities are
caught in the Potomac and brought here for barreling.
WASHINGTON,
The political metropolis of the United States, is located
between the Potomac and a tributary call East Branch.  The
Potomac, at Washington, is about a mile in width, and of sufficient depth for the largest ships.
The principal edifices are the Capitol, White house, Treasury
building, Patent office, Post office, and Smithsonian institute.
The first of these, in point of interest and architectural merit, is
15




226               THE SOUTHERN STATES.
the Capitol, containing the supreme court room and halls of the
national legislature. This building comprises the centre capitol
and extensions. The corner stone of the centre building was
laid by Washington in 1792. The extension was commenced by
President Fillmore in 1851. The center capitol, built of freestone, painted white, is three hundred and fifty-two feet long by
one hundred and twenty-one deep.  The extensions, of pure
white marble, are each two hundred and thirty-eight by one
hundred and forty feet, connected by corridors forty-four feet
long. The whole building is seven hundred and thirty-seven
feet long, and covers three and a half acres of ground. (See
views of the Capitol.) In the centre of the building is a rotunda
ninety-six feet in diameter, surmounted by a dome of iron, on
which rests Crawford's bronze statue of Liberty.  The western
front commands the finest view to be had in Washington, overlooking all the principal public buildings, and the central and
western portions of the city. Groups of statuary by Persico
and Greenough are on the eastern central portico. On the right
of the entrance to the rotunda are placed the statues of War and
Civilization; on the left of the entrance are the statues of Peace,
and Columbus and the Indian girl. In the rotunda is a statue
of Lincoln, and many historical paintings, among which are the
baptism of Pocahontas, the landing of Columbus, the surrender
of Cornwallis, General Washington resigning his commission at
Annapolis, the surrender of Burgoyne, the embarkation of the
Pilgrims, and others. In the dome of the capitol is an allegorical painting by Brumide. (See view of painting.) South of
the rotunda is the old hall of representatives, now used for statuary, and as a passage way to the new hall. Above the south
door is placed a statue of Liberty, supported by an eagle with
spread wings. Over the north entrance is a statue regarded as
one of the gems of the capitol. It is a figure representing History recording the events of the nation. The senate chamber is
in the northern and the house of representatives in the southern
extension of the capitol. They are both constructed of iron,
ornamented alike, and differ only in size. The ceiling of the
senators' retiring room is of Italian and the sides of gold veined




THE SOUTHERN STATES.                 22'
Tennessee marble. This room is more costly and beautifully
ornamented than the others.  (See views of retiring room0
The grounds around the capitol comprise about twenty-five acres,
but they are soon to be increased to fifty acres. East of the
capitol is a statue of Washington, by Greenough.  (See view of
statue.) In front of the capitol, between Maryland and Pennsylvania avenues, a botanical garden is being laid out, in which
is a large collection of plants, secured by the South Sea and
Japanese exploring expeditions.
The Presidential Mansion or White House, built of yellow
free-stone, painted white, is about one and a half miles from the
capitol, having been placed at this distance on Washington's
suggestion, that the executive and legislative departments ought
to be far enough apart to insure separate hours of business for
each. It is two stories high, and has a front of one hundred
and seventy feet by eighty-six deep. (See views of White Houses)
In the north lawn is a statue of Jefferson, and in Lafayette
square, across Pennsylvania avenue, is an equestrian statue of
Jackson, by Clark Mills, and in the circle near Georgetown is a
statue of Washington by the same artist. (See views of statuary.i)
The Treasury building, an immense edifice six hundred feet
long and two hundred feet wide, is devoted to the state and treasury departments. (See views of Treasury building.) In this
edifice are about five hundred rooms, in one of which is an immense printing and engraving establishment.
West of the president's house are the Navy and War departments and Pension office. They are large, plain brick buildings.
The Postoffice, one of the finest structures in the city, is situated
north of Pennsylvania avenue, about half way between the capitol and the president's house. It is built of white marble, two
hundred and four feet long and one hundred and two feet wide,
and contains upwards of two hundred rooms.
The Patent office occupies a whole square, and in structure,
extent and elegance is not surpassed by any other building in
the city except the capitol. (See views of Patent office.) Here
may be found models of every invention or machine that has
been patented.




228                THE SOUTHERN STATES.
A colossal monument to Washington has been commenced in
the proposed new park, between the president's house and the
capitol, to be erected by contributions of the people, the plan of
which is an obelisk of white marble, at the base fifty-five feet'square, diminishing to twenty-five feet square at the hight of
five hundred feet.  This stands on a pedestal seventeen feet high
which is to be used as a receptacle for relics.  A block of native'wood or stone is furnished by each state, which is to be inserted
at each landing of the inside staircase.  East of the monument,
and about half way between that and the capitol, situated on an
eminence in the new park now being laid out, stands the Smithsonian institute.  (See views of Smithsonian institute.)  This
~imposing edifice, four hundred and fifty feet long and one hundred and forty feet deep, is built of red sandstone in the Norman
style.  James Smithson, an Englishman, left to the United.States five hundred and fifteen thousand one hundred and ninetysix dollars, " to found at Washington an establishment for the
increase and diffusion of knowledge among men."  With a part,of this fund and the accumnulated interest the Smithsonian insti4tute was founded.  In this building'are a museum for objects of
natural history, and a gallery for painting and statuary.  It has a
library of forty thousand volumes, and one of the best supplied
labratories in the United States.  Works on ethnology and the
antiquities have been published by this institution.  The officers
are the President, Vice President, Chief Justice of the United
States, members of the cabinet, Commissioners of the Patent
office, the Mayor of Washington, and a board of Regents, who.elect a secretary, chancellor and executive committee.
One of the most creditable institutions of the United States
as the National Observatory, lying in latitude 380 53' 39" N.,
and longitude 770 2' 48"/ W. from  Greenwich.  It is itself a
meridian, and longitude is often reckoned from this city.  The
observatory occupies a commanding site on the Potomac, southwest of the white house.  Astronomical observations are constantly made here, and chronometers for the use of the navy are
tested.  The largest telescope is a fourteen feet reflector, there
are also a number of smaller ones.




THE SOUTHERN STATES.                229
The Arsenal is on Greenleaf point, at the junction of the east
branch with the Potomac. The navy-yard, on the east branch,
covering about twenty acres, enclosed by a wall, is about midway between the arsenal and capitol. This yard, one of the
most extensive in the union, employs four hundred hands in
the manufacture of anchors, boilers, steam engines, chain cables,
in foundries, etc.
The government asylum for the insane of the District of Columbia, the army and the navy is situated on the opposite side
of the east branch from the navy.  About one mile east of the
capitol is the congressional burying ground, where have been
deposited some of the most eminent men of the nation.
VIRGINIA.
Virginia, one of the original states of the American confederacy, lies between latitude 360 30', and 40~ 38' N., and between
longitude 750 10' and 830 30t W. It is bounded on the north!
by Ohio, Pennsylvania and Maryland; on the east by Maryland and the Atlantic ocean; on the south by North Carolina
and Tennessee, and on the west by Kentucky and Ohio.
The state was settled in 1607, and being the first of the English colonies, was styled the " Ancient Dominion." The outline is irregular, the surface varied, and the state probably
embraces a greater extent of mountainous territory than any
other east of the Rocky mountains. White top, its highest
elevation, is six thousand feet above the level of the sea.  The
principal productions are tobacco, wheat and corn. The inhabitants of Virginia were the first civilized people that were extensively engaged in raising tobacco.
Virginia possesses facilities, which, if properly improved,
would render it one of the first manufacturing states in the
union, but like the rest of the southern states, less attention is
paid to the manufactures, than to agriculture.
The level and coast regions are hot, and subject to droughts
during the summer. The mountainous part of the state has a
salubrious temperature, with warm days and cool nights.




230               THE SOUTHERN STATES.
Virginia abounds in picturesque scenery.  The most noted
places are the Mineral Springs, Wyer's and Madison's caves,
the Chimneys, the Natural bridge, Natural tunnel, Buffalo knob,
and Hawk's nest.  The Natural bridge spans a chasm ninety
feet broad. The upper is two hundred and forty, and the under
side two hundred feet above the water.  The roads leading to
the bridge, are, during wet weather, often impassable, and when
best, the difficulties encountered in reaching the bridge are so
great that they have been compared to purgatory. The bridge
is in the form of an arch, through which, flows Creek river.
Thirty feet from the bottom, and directly under the arch, are
carved the letters G. W. These are the initials of George
Washington, who, when a boy, scaled the rocks to this hight,
and left his name indelibly traced on its surface.  (See views of
Natural bridge.)  The Hawk's nest is a perpendicular cliff, one
thousand feet above New river, on which it is situated. Through
the Natural tunnel, passes a stream under an arch seventy feet
in elevation, covered with a bed of earth twice that thickness.
RICHMOND,
The largest city and capital of the state, is situated on the
James river.  It has a population of 37,910.  The city is built
on several eminences, two of which are Richmond and Shokoe
hills, separated by Shokoe creek.  Main street is the principal
business part of the city. The capitol is on Shokoe hill. Its
size and elevated position. render it the most conspicuous object
in the city. The public square, in the center of which the
capitol stands, embraces about eight acres.  In it is a marble
statue of Washington, around the center base of which are the
statues of Patrick Henry, Thomas Jefferson, and Mason.  The
city hall, at an angle of Capitol square, is a handsome and
costly building, constructed in the Doric style. The penitentiary has a front three hundred feet by one hundred and ten
deep.  It stands in the suburbs of the city, near the river.
Richmond contains a court-house and jail, a new custom-house,
two market-houses, a theater, a masonic hall, an orphan asylum,
three banks, and about thirty churches. The public press issues




THE SOUTHERN STATES.               231
seventeen papers and periodicals, several of which are dailies.
Among the educational institutions, are Richmond college, St.
Vincent's college, Sydney college, the Virginia historical and
philosophical society, and the medical department of Hamden.
The city was founded in 1742, and became the capital of the
state in 1780. During the rebellion it was the capital of the
southern confederacy, and was taken by General Grant, of the
union army, on the 2d of April, 1865, after a long siege. (See
views of Richmond.)
NORFOLK,
Next to Richmond, the most populous city of Virginia, is
situated on the north bank of Elizabeth river. It is one of the
most important commercial and naval stations in the United
States. The city hall, a structure eighty by sixty feet, has a
granite front, and a cupola one hundred and ten feet high.
Other conspicuous buildings, are the Norfolk military academy,
the Mechanics' and Ashard halls. Norfolk has three banks, two
reading rooms, nine seminaries, an orphan asylum, a hospital,
fourteen churches, one of which has a steeple two hundred feet
high, and several printing offices. The town was laid out in
1705, burned by the British in 1776, and incorporated as a city
in 1845.
PETERSBURG,
A flourishing town of Virginia, is on the south bank of the
Appomattox river. It has a population of eighteen thousand
two hundred and sixty-six. The city is well built, and contains
three banks, one woollen and several cotton factories, eight
churches, and has three newspaper publications. It was taken
by the union army in April, 1865.
ALEXANDRIA,
The county seat of Alexandria county, is pleasantly located
on the west bank of the Potomac river. It has a court house,
three banks, several excellent schools, two printing offices, and
twelve churches. It is connected with Georgetown by means of
a canal, and with Washington and Gordonsville by railroad.




232               THE SOUTHERN STATES.
MOUNT VERNON
Is about eight miles below Alexandria, on the Potomac. It
is noted for being the residence and burial place of George Washington. (See views of Mount Vernon.)
WEST  VIRGINIA.
West Virginia was admitted into the union as a state in 1862.
It comprises about a third of the old state of Virginia.  It lies
between the Alleghany mountains and the Ohio and Big Sandy
rivers. This state was separated from Virginia during the war
of secession. Its climate, soil and productions resemble those
of Kentucky and Ohio. Coal, iron, salt and petroleum exist in
large quantities.
WHEELING,
The capital of West Virginia, is on the Ohio river, and on
both sides of Wheeling creek.  The site of the city is about six
hundred and thirty feet above the level of the sea. In population, manufactures and trade, it is the chief city of the state.
Wheeling has a population of 22,500, and contains a handsome court house, custom house, four banks, three academies,
nineteen churches, and publishes four or five newspapers. The
river is here crossed by a beautiful suspension bridge, measuring in length one thousand and ten feet. The towers are sixty
feet above the abutments, and one hundred and fifty-three feet
above low water mark. The bridge is supported by four cable
wires, each eight inches in diameter, and one thousand three hundred and eighty feet long. This bridge was constructed at a
cost of two hundred and ten thousand dollars.
Inexhaustible beds of coal are found in the immediate vicinity of Wheeling, furnishing fuel at a small expense to its numerous manufactories.
The other principal places of West Virgini-i are Charlestown,
Parkersburg, Point Pleasant, and Harper's Ferry.




THE SOUTHERN STATES.                233
CHARLESTOWN,
A handsome post village and county seat of Kanawha county, situated on the Kanawlha river, is noted for its salt works.
Its population numbers one thousand five hundred and twenty.
Twice each year the district court of the United States is held
at this place. The river at Charlestown is three hundred yards
wide, and navigable for steamers at all seasons of the year.
PARKERSBUJRG,
The shire town of Wood county, is neatly built and pleasantly
situated on the Ohio, at the mouth of the Little Kanawha. It
has a population of six hundred, and contains a court house,
four or five churches, a printing office, two national banks, and
several steam mills. In the vicinity of Parkersburg, wells of
coal oil abound.
POINT PLEASANT,
The seat of justice of Mason county, has a population of five
hundred and nineteen, a court house, and several stores.
HARPER'S FERRY
Is at the junction of the Potomac and Shenandoah rivers,
where the united waters break through the Blue Ridge. The
scenery in this vicinity is beautiful and picturesque. Thomas
Jefferson thought the "passage through the Blue Ridge one of
the most stupendous scenes in nature, and well worth a voyage
across the Atlantic to witness." The original name of this
place was the Shenandoah Falls. (See views of Harper's Ferry.)
NORTH CAROLINA.
North Carolina, one of the thirteen original states, lies between latitude 330 53' and 360 33' N., and between longitude
750 25' and 840 30' W. It is bounded on the north by Virginia, on the east by the Atlantic ocean, on the south by the
Atlantic ocean and South Carolina, and on the west by Tennessee. The east and south-east portions of the state are marshy,




234               THE SOUTHERN STATES.
level and sandy, and abound in numerous shallow lakes, particularly between the Albemarle and Pamlico sounds. The level
region extends about sixty miles from the coast. The center is
hilly, and the western part mountainous. Through this part of
the state pass several ridges of the Alleghany system, the highest peaks of which are, Clingman's peak, six thousand nine
hundred and forty-one feet; Grandmother mountain, two thousand five hundred feet; Grandfather mountain, five thousand
seven hundred and eighty-eight feet; Roan mountain, six thousand two hundred and seventy feet; and Mt. Mitchell, the most
elevated peak east of the Rocky mountains, six thousand seven
hundred and thirty-two feet above the level of the sea.
The principal minerals of North Carolina are gold, -copper,
iron, and coal. The state is traversed by a number of rivers,
but the rapids and floating sand-bars of which prevent their
being navigable for large vessels. The most important productions are' cotton, rice, tobacco, wheat and corn.  The chief
exports are lumber and naval stores.
Attempts were made by Sir Walter Raleigh to settle North
Carolina in 1585, but they were unsuccessful. The first permanent settlements were on the banks of the Roanoke and Chowara.  These were attacked, in 1711, by the Tuscaroras, Creeks,
and other Indians, who massacred one hundred and twelve settlers. The united forces of the Carolinas killed three hundred
savages, and completely routed them.
North Carolina was the first to propose a separation from
Great Britain, and took an active part in the revolution.
WILMINGTON,
The commercial metropolis and principal city of the state, is
situated on the Cape Fear river. It has a population of nine
thousand five hundred and fifty-two. Its business and population have greatly increased since the completion of the Wilmington and Raleigh railroad. The city has been recently connected with Manchester, in South Carolina.  Communications with
Charleston and Fayetteville, are kept up by means of steamboats. In 1819 a great portion of the city was consumed by




THE SOUTHERN STATES.               235
fire. Wilmington was captured from the rebels in February,
1865, by the union army and navy. Many steam engines are
employed in the manufactories, among which are saw, planing
and rice mills, and distilleries. The city contains three banks,
and publishes three newspapers.
FAYETTEVILLE,
The county seat of Cumberland county, is situated at the
head of natural navigation, on the Cape Fear river. The town
is symmetrically laid out, with streets one hundred feet wide.
It has a population of four thousand seven hundred and ninety.
The arsenal of construction at Fayetteville is a large establishment, embracing about fifty acres. Beside the county buildings,
there are in this place three banks, and three printing offices.
The city was captured by the federal troops in March, 1865.
BEAUFORT,
A port of entry, and shire town of Carteret county, has a
population of one thousand six hundred and ten. It is situated
on the Newport river, near its mouth; it is accessible by steamers, and has the finest harbor in the state, the entrance to which
is defended by Fort Macon.  Beaufort contains the county
buildings, a number of seminaries, and one or two churches.
NEWBERN,
At the confluence of the Neuse and Trent, was formerly the
capital of the state. The river at this point, is about a mile
wide, and navigable for steamers for about eight months of the
year. It is the capital of Craven county, and contains the
county buildings, a number of churches, a theater, two banks,
and several printing offices.
RALEIGH,
The capital of the state, occupying an elevated and healthy
situation, has a population of four thousand seven hundred and
eighty. The capitol, in the center of union square, which occupies the center of the city, is one of the most handsome statehouses in the union. It is one hundred and sixty-six feet long,




236               THE SOUTHERN STATES.
ninety-six feet wide, and cost upwards of five hundred thousand
dollars. It is a granite structure, surmounted by a dome. and
surrounded by massive pillars of the same material as the building. In the city is an institution for the deaf and dumb, an
insane asylum, a court house, two banks, several churches, a
market house and two newspaper publications.
SOUTH CAROLINA.
South Carolina, one of the original states of the American
confederacy, lies between latitude 320 and 350 10' N., and
between longitude 780 35' and 83~ 30' W. It is bounded on
the north by North Carolina, on the east by the Atlantic ocean,
on the south by the Atlantic ocean and Georgia, and on the west
by Georgia.
This state is next to Maryland, the smallest of the Southern
states, but in proportion to its size one of the most populous and
wealthy. It is often called the Palmetto state on account of the
abundance of Palmetto trees growing within its borders.
The principal minerals are gold, iron and lead. The chief
rivers are the Santee, formed by the confluence of the Wateree
and Cogairee, the Great Pedee and Little Pedee.  Table mountain, one of the most interesting objects in the state, has a perpendicular elevation of eleven hundred feet above the surrounding' country, and is a noted summer resort. At the foot of the
mountain is a hotel.  Caesar's Head derives its name from its
resembling the human head in shape. Glenn's and Limestone
springs are watering places of considerable note.  The climate
and productions of South Carolina resemble those of southern
Europe. There is more rice raised in this than any other state
in the union. Large quantities of cotton are raised on the
islands bordering on the coast of this state.
CHARLESTON,
The largest and principal city of South Carolina, has a population of forty thousand five hundred and twenty-two. The
ground on which it is built lies between the Ashley and Cooper
rivers,.'The city is symmetrically built, is about two miles in




THE SOUTHERN STATES.                 237
length and one and a half in breadth.  The harbor of Charleston is defended by Forts Pinckney, Johnson, Moultrie and Sumnter. The light house in this harbor is one hundred and twentyfive and a half feet high. The foundation of the city was laid
in 1672, and was incorporated as a city in 1783.
Among the educational and literary institutions of the city are
the state medical college, Charleston college, the literary and
philosophical society, the apprentices' association, the mercantile library association, the city library, a high school, and
several common schools. The city contains an orphan asylum,
an almshouse, several first class hotels, thirty churches, a theatre, two banks, and several insurance offices.
Charleston is a great commercial city. The principal exports
are cotton and rice. It exports more rice than any other city
in the union, and the exportation of cotton is rivaled only by
Mobile and New Orleans.
COLUMBIA,
The capital of South Carolina, is situated at the head of navigation on the Congaree river.  It streets are one hundred feet
wide and bordered with ornamental trees.
The South Carolina college is a brick structure three stories
high and two hundred and fifteen feet long.  The capitol has
a front one hundred and seventy feet by sixty deep.  The city
contains, besides these, a court house, insane asylum, three
banks, a market house, a number of churches, a theological
school, several seminaries and printing offices.
GEORGETOWN,
A port of entry, is finely located on the west coast of Wingan
bay.  A short distance above the site of the town is the confluence of the Great Pedee, Black, and Waccamau rivers, the
united waters of which render the position advantageous for
trade.  It has a population of one thousand seven hundred and
twenty, and contains several churches and seminaries, a court
house, a bank, and publishes two newspapers.




238               THE SOUTHERN STATES.
CAMDEN,
A flourishing town of south Carolina, situated at the head of
navigation on the Wateree river, has a population of one thousand six hundred and twenty-one. It is surrounded by a fertile
district, in which large quantities of cotton, corn and peaches
are grown. In the town are an academy, library, bank, an arsenal and cotton factory.
GEORGIA.
Georgia, one of the thirteen original states, extends between
latitude 300 21' 39" and 350 N., and between longitude 810 and
85~ 53' 38" W. It is bounded on the north by Tennessee and
North Carolina, on the east by South Carolina and the Atlantic
ocean, on the south by Florida, and on the west by Alabama.
Every variety of surface is represented in this state; alluvial
lands, swamps, undulating, rough, hilly and mountainous territory. The principal rivers are, Savannah, by which the state
is separated from South Carolina; Chattahoochee, forming part
of the boundary between Georgia and Alabama; and the Altamaha, formed by the confluence of the Oconee and Ocmulgee.
Owing to the great diversity of soil and climate, the productions
are of a great variety, embracing all those common to New
England, Middle and Western states. The principal minerals
are gold, silver, copper, iron, lead, marble and precious stones.
Among the objects of interest to those who appreciate the beautiful and picturesque in nature, may be mentioned the falls of
Tallulah, the stream in which they occur passing through cliffs
from two to three hundred feet high, the Toccaso, Amicolah,
Towaligo, Eastateah and Stochoa falls, Nicojack, Willson's and
Nix's caves, Track Rock, and Pilot mountains.
SAVANNAH,
The largest and most important commercial city of Georgia,
is situated on the south-west bank of the Savannah river.  The
city is laid out regularly, the streets wide, unpaved, and shaded
with India trees. At every alternate corner there is a public
square, usually in a circular or ellipse form. In these squares,




THE SOUTHERN STATES.               239
also, are India trees growing. Broad and Bay streets have a
carriage way on each side, and a grassy promenade in the
middle.
The principal public buildings are Oglethorpe and St. Andrew's halls, the court house, jail, state arsenal, artillery armory,
theatre, lyceum, city exchange, Chatham academy and custom
house. Savannah has sixteen churches, a Hebrew synagogue,
a historical society, several reading rooms, numerous private
schools, a library of six thousand volumes, five banks, an orphan
asylum, hospital, infirmary, a seamen's friend society, a Hibernian society, a free school, and publishes five daily newspapers.
(See views of Savannah.)
AUGUSTA,
A flourishing city of Georgia and county seat of Richmond
county, at the head of navigation on Savannah river, has a population of twelve thousand four hundred and ninety-three.
Among the important buildings are Richmond academy, a
medical college, the city hall, a hospital, arsenal, six banks, five
newspaper offices and fourteen churches. A bridge crossing the
river at this point connects Augusta with Hamburg, South
Carolina.
COLUMBUS,
A handsome city of Georgia and capital of Muscogee county,
is on the east bank of the Chattahoochee river. The city is laid
out in oblong blocks, in each of which there are eight square
lots. The city extends a mile and a half along the river with a
breadth of half a mile. It has a population of nine thousand
six hundred and twenty one, a court house, an orphan asylum,
several churches, excellent schools, and about one hundred and
fifty stores.
MILLEDGEVILLE,
The capital of Georgia, situated on the Oconee river, has a
population of two thousand four hundred and eighty. The city
contains a fine gothic state house, a penitentiary, a state arsenal,
a bank, an academy, five churches, and publishes five newspapers.




240               THE SOUTHERN STATES.
ATLANTA
Is about seven miles from the Chattahoochee river, on a line
of railroad leading from Savannah to Chattanooga and Nashville, Tennessee. It was laid out in 1845, since which time it
has increased in population and wealth until it is now one of the
most important cities in northern Georgia, and has a population
of nine thousand five hundred and fifty four.  It was recaptured
from the rebels in September, 1864, by General Sherman.
FLORIDA.
Florida, the most southern state in the union, extends between
latitude 250 and 31~ N., and between longitude 80~ and 87~
44' W. It is bounded on the north by Georgia and Alabama,
on the east and south by the Atlantic ocean, and on the west by
the Gulf of Mexico and Alabama.
The surface is generally level, no portion being more than
three hundred feet above the level of the sea.  The southern
part, called the everglades, is covered with water. This tract is
about one hundred and sixty miles long, by sixty broad. This
state has a greater extent of seacoast than any other in the
union. The principal rivers are the Appalachicola, Suwanee,
and St. Johns. About twelve miles from Tallahassee, a beautiful
lake is formed by a spring bursting from a vast depth.  The
lake is remarkably transparent, and the water nearly as cold as
ice during the hottest weather. Some of these springs in which
the state abounds, have sufficient force to turn a mill.
PENSACOLA,
The county seat of Escambia county, is situated on the Pensacola bay. The harbor of Pensacola is one of the safest in the
Gulf of Mexico, and is strongly fortified. It has a population
of two thousand eight hundred and seventy-six, and contains a
market-house, custom-house, several churches, three newspaper
offices, a United States naval station, and a marine hospital.
KEY WEST,
On Key West island, is the most populous city in the state.
It was first settled in 1822. It now has a population of two




THE SOUTHERN STATES.                241
thousand eight hundred and thirty-two. Its harbor is defended
by Fort Taylor. It has no regular communication with the
main land, except by steamers which enter its harbor once a
week from Charleston and Savannah. About thirty thousand
bushels of salt are made annually by solar evaporation.
ST. AUGUSTINE,
County seat of St. John's county, is situated in the eastern
part of the state, on the Atlantic ocean. It is one of the largest
places in the state and is the oldest city in the union. It was
founded in 1565 by the Spaniards, and is built on a plain only a
few feet above the level of the sea. The streets are narrow,
most of the houses two stories, the upper of which projects over
the street. The harbor is defended by Fort Marion, which is
more than a hundred years old. It was erected by the Spaniards, and formerly called the Castle of St. Marcus.
The climate is mild, and the date-palm, the orange, olive and
lemon thrive in this locality. In the town are about five hundred dwellings, one thousand nine hundred and fourteen inhabitants, a United States land office, court house, a newspaper office,
three Protestant churches, and a Roman Catholic cathedral, the
oldest in America, supposed to be three hundred years old.
(See views of St. Augustine.)
ALABAMA.
Alabama extends between latitude 300 10" and 350 N., and
between longitude 85~ and 880 30' west. It is bounded on the
north by Tennessee, on the east by Georgia, on the south by
Florida and the Gulf of Mexico, and on the west by Mississippi.
The Alleghany mountains terminate in the northern part of
this state. The centre is rough and hilly. The region along
the coast is level. The principal minerals are coal, iron, lead,
marble and limestone. The most important rivers are the Mobile, Alabama, Tombigbee and Tennessee, all of which are navigable for steamboats to some extent.
The climate and productions of Alabama closely resemble
those of the tropical regions. It is one of the leading cotton
16




242               THE SOUTHERN STATES.
growing states. The other principal productions are corn, sweet
potatoes, rice and lumber.  The state formerly belonged to
Georgia, and with it was included in the Mississippi territory.  It
was admitted into the union as a state in 1819.
MOBILE,
The largest and most populous city of Alabama, is situated
on Mobile river, just above its entrance into the bay of the same
name. Mobile is second only to New Orleans in the exportation of cotton. It exports, besides the productions of Alabama,
a large portion of those of Mississippi.  The streets of the city
are wide and ornamented with shade trees.  Mobile contains
Spring Hill college, a marine hospital, two orphan asylums, a
theatre and several newspaper offices, banks, churches and academies.  A custom house is being constructed at a cost of three
hundred thousand dollars. It has a population of twenty-nine
thousand two hundred and fifty-eight.
MONTGOMERY,
A flourishing city and capital of Alabama, is situated on the
Alabama river. It possesses greater facilities for communication with the surrounding country than any other city of the
southern states. The waters of the Alabama never freeze, and
are navigable for large steamboats all seasons of the year. The
capital was removed from Tuscaloosa to this place in 1847. The
city has a population of eight thousand eight hundred and fortythree, and contains beside the state buildings a bank and several
newspaper offices.
TUSCALOOSA,
A flourishing town, situated on the Black Warrior river, was
formerly the capital of Alabama. It is one of the principal
towns of the state, and is noted for its active trade and literary
institutions.  It contains the state university, the buildings of
which are pleasantly located about a half a mile from the river,
and cost about one hundred and fifty thousand dollars, the
state lunatic asylum, United States land office, a number of
churches and newspaper offices, and several academies.  It has
a population of three thousand nine hundred and eighty-nine.




THE SOUTHERN STATES.                243
HUNSTVILLE,
A beautiful and thriving town, county seat of Madison county,
Alabama, is on the Memphis and Charleston railroad.  The court
house, a handsome brick building, cost upwards of forty-five
thousand dollars. The town has a population of three. thousand
six hundred and eighty-four, and contains a bank, United States
land office, several churches, two female seminaries, one of which
cost twenty thousand dollars, and publishes three newspapers.
MISSISSIPPI.
Mississippi, the ninth in order of the southern states, extends
between latitude 300 20' and 350 N., and between longitude
88~ 12' and 91~ 40' W. It is bounded on the north by Tennessee, on the east by Alabama, on the south by the Gulf of Mexico
and Louisiana, and on the west by Louisiana and Arkansas.
To this state belong a number of islands in the gulf, the principal of which are Ship, Deer and Horn islands. Though there
are eighty-eight miles of sea coast, the state affords no good
harbors.  The eastern and central parts of the state are elevated
table lands, descending toward the Mississippi river. The northern and southern portions are undulating and rolling. The
principal rivers are the Mississippi, which forms the boundary
between this state and Arkansas and a part of Louisiana, the
Pearl, Black, Yazoo, and the Pascagoula.  The chief productions are cotton, Indian corn, rice, sweet potatoes, sugar, peaches,
figs and oranges.
Mississippi was admitted into the union as a state in 1817,
from which it seceded in 1861, and joined the confederate states.
The principal cities are Natchez, Vicksburg, Jackson and
Columbus.
NATCHEZ,
The largest and most important city of the state, is built on a
bluff a hundred and fifty feet high which forms the bank of the
river. The city derived its name from a noted tribe of Indians
who peopled this part of the country. Natchez has thirteen
thousand five hundred and fifty-three inhabitants, and elegant




244               THE SOUTHERN STATES.
mansions, to some of which are attached orange groves. The
city contains eight churches, a court house, jail, United States
marine hospital, orphan asylum, masonic hall, two daily papers,
numerous seminaries and flourishing public schools.  It was
settled by the French in 1716, and burned by the Indians in 1729.
JACKSON,
A thriving town and capital of Mississippi, is situated on the
Pearl river. The town is built upon a plain, and symmetrically
laid out. It has a population of three thousand one hundred
and ninety-nine, and contains the state lunatic asylum, a United
States land office, several churches, the executive mansion and
a fine state house, constructed at la cost of more than half a
million of dollars.
VICKSBURG,
The capital of Warren county, is located on the Mississippi
river, and is of more commercial importance than any other city
between Natchez and Memphis. There are four thousand five
hundred and ninety-one inhabitants.  It contains the county
buildings, several academies and five churches. It was captured
from the rebels by General Grant, after a long and obstinate
defense, on the 4th of July, 1863.
COLUMBUS,
A flourishing post-town and county seat of Lowndes county,
is on the Tombigbee river. It has a population of three thousand three hundred and eight. It contains the county buildings,
a United States land office, newspaper office and several churches.
LOUISIANA.
Louisiana, one of the southern states, extends between latitude 290 and 330 N., and between longitude 88~ 50' and 940
20' W. It is bounded on the north by Arkansas, on the east by
Mississippi, on the south by the Gulf of Mexico, and on the west
by Texas. A large part of the state is below high water level,
and is protected from inundations by dykes, called levees.




THE SOUTHERN STATES.                245
The staple productions are cotton and sugar cane, and of the
latter Louisiana produces about nine-tenths of the whole amount
raised in the union. Tobacco, rice, oranges, figs, peaches and
bananas are also raised in large quantities.
The natural advantages for internal commerce which this state
possesses are not rivaled by any other state or country on the
globe. Steamers run from the Gulf of Mexico to the falls of St.
Anthony on the Mississippi, to the foot of the Rocky mountains
on the Missouri, and to the eastward on the Ohio, Cumberland,
and Tennessee, carrying to her the production of fourteen states.
The principal rivers are the Mississippi, Red, and Washita.
The Mississippi, the largest river of North America and the
longest in the world, takes its rise in the northern part of Minnesota, in Itasca lake, flows in a south-easterly course and
empties into the Gulf of Mexico. It is two thousand nine hundred and eighty-six miles in length. It is navigable for large
steamers to the falls of St. Anthony, a distance of two thousand
two hundred miles. This river separates Iowa, Missouri, Arkansas, and a part of Minnesota and Louisiana on the west from
Illinois, Kentucky, Tennessee, and the greater part of Wisconsin and Mississippi on the east. The delta of the Mississippi has
formed most of the lower part of Louisiana, and has advanced
s everal leagues since the city of New Orleans has been built.
The delta is a hundred and fifty miles wide, and contains an area
of fourteen thousand square miles.
The chief cities are New Orleans, Baton Rouge, and Natchitoches.
NEW ORLEANS,
The great commercial metropolis of the south-west, is called
the Crescent city from its location on a bend of the Mississippi.
It exports more cotton than any other city in the world, and not
only the productions of Louisiana, but a considerable part of
those of the Mississippi valley. The population of the city numbers one hundred and sixty-eight thousand eight hundred and
twenty-three. The public buildings of New Orleans are among
the best and most extensive in the United States. The United




246               THE SOUTHERN STATES.
States custom house is exceeded in size by no building in the
United States except the national capitol.  The United States
branch mint is a massive structure two hundred and eighty-two
feet long and one hundred and eight feet wide and three stories
high. The Municipal hall is an elegant structure in the Grecian
style of architecture.  Among other remarkable public buildings
are the Odd Fellows' hall, Merchants' exchange, the Charity
hospital, United States naval hospital, a Medical college, and
numerous schools.  The city also contains about forty churches
and three Jewish synagogues.
On account of the marshy nature of the soil on which the city
is built, there are no cellars under the houses, and no excavations for the interment of the dead can be made, and they are
deposited in tombs or ovens above ground.
New Orleans was settled in 1717 by the French, and named
in honor of the Duke of Orleans, regent of France during the
minority of Louis XV.
BATON ROUGE,
The capital of Louisiana, is situated on the Mississippi, about
one hundred and thirty miles above New Orleans. The site of
the city is a bluff elevated about twenty-five feet above high
water mark, and one of the healthiest towns in the southern
portion of the Mississippi valley. Baton Rouge became the capital of the state in 1847, since which time the population and
value of property has increased and business become more active.
The population of the city numbers five thousand four hundred
and twenty-eight.
TEXAS.
Texas, the largest state in the union, and the most southwestern of the southern states, formerly belonged to Mexico.
It extends between latitude 250 50' and 360 30' N., and between
longitude 930 30' and 107~ W.  It is bounded on the north by
Kansas and the Indian territory, oil the east by Arkansas and
Louisiana. on the south by the Gulf of Mexico and lMexico, and
on the west by Mexico and New Mexico.




THE SOUTHERN STATES.                247
This state embraces every variety of surface, mountains, valleys, hills, plains, table lands and deserts. Only about one half
of the state is settled. The western part is occupied by the Indians, and large herds of buffalo and wild horses roam over the
unsettled regions.  Texas abounds in minerals, and being so
near the rich silver mines of Mexico and New Mexico'may yet,
possibly, yield rich supplies of this metal.
The staple productions are cotton, corn, sugar, tobacco and
rice. Oranges, lemons, and other tropical fruits are grown with
much success in this state.  Camels were at one time introduced
into this state for the purpose of traveling across the desert
between Texas and the Pacific ocean.
The towns of Texas are not large. Austin is the capital and
Galveston and Houston are the most important towns.  San
Antonio is the oldest in the state.
AUSTIN,
The capital of Texas and county seat of Travis county, is
situated on the Colorado river. It has a population of three
thousand four hundred and ninety-six, and contains besides the
county and state buildings, several stores and printing offices.
It became the capital in 1844.
GALVESTON,
The most populous and principal commercial town of Texas
and capital of Galveston county, is pleasantly located on an
island of the same name. It has the best harbor in the state,
and one of the best on the Gulf of Mexico, carries on an active
trade and contains a town hall, several large hotels, eight
churches, a fine market house, and publishes several newspapers.
It has a population of seven thousand three hundred and seven,
and was first settled in 1837.
HOUSTON,
Shire town of Harris county, situated on Buffalo bayou, has a
population of four thousand eight hundred and forty-five. It is
the second town in commercial importance in the state, and the
principal shipping port for an extensive and very fertile section




248              THE SOUTHERN STATES.
of country. The city was at one time the capital of Texas. It
contains a machine shop, an iron foundry, a hat factory and
several newspaper offices.
SAN ANTONIO,
A flourishing post town of Bexar county, on the San Antonio
river, has a population of eight thousand two hundred and thirtyfive. It is a wealthy town, and contains many elegant residences,
a United States arsenal, several churches and seminaries, and
publishes two newspapers.
In this town is the Alamo fortress, renowned in the history of
the state, where a band of Texans defended themselves for two
weeks against a Mexican force of four thousand strong.




CHAPTER IV.
THE WESTERN STATES.
OHIO.
The first white settlement in Ohio was made April 7th, 1788,
by a company from New England. In 1781 a territorial government was established over this region, called the territory
north-west of the Ohio river, from which, in 1802, the present
state of Ohio was separated.
The surface of the state, though not mountainous, is elevated
in some places ten thousand feet above the level of the sea, and
in other portions from six hundred to eight hundred feet. The
northern part of the state is drained by Lake Erie, the southern
by the Ohio river. The tributaries of the Ohio are much larger
than those of Lake Erie. The Ohio river forms the entire
southern boundary of the state, giving it access to the commerce
of the great Mississippi valley. Its principal tributaries in Ohio
are the Muskingum, Scioto, and Miami. These rivers vary in
length from one hundred and ten to two hundred miles. The
chief rivers of the northern slope are the Maumee, the Sandusky,
Huron and Cuyahoga. Lake Erie forms the northern and northeastern boundary of the state for about one hundred and fifty
miles. At the west end of the lake are the Maumee and Sandusky bays, besides several small islands belonging to the state.
Large stones, called boulders, are found on the plains of Ohio,
and of several of the western states. These boulders are sometimes very large; they differ in character from the rocks of the
surrounding country, and have evidently been brought from a
distance. They appear to have been transported from their
original resting place by the icebergs of an early sea, and dropped
at random as the ice melted.




250                THE WESTERN STATES.
At Bryan, in Williams county, there is a natural fountain,
supposed to proceed from a subterranean lake.  The supply is
never affected by droughts or rain, and small fish are sometimes
thrown up.  The celebrated white sulphur fountain is situated
on the. Scioto, eighteen miles above ColuLmbus.  It rises from
the bed of the Scioto through solid rock.  It was first discovered
in 1820, while boring for salt water.  The operators had pierced
a hole about two and one half inches in diameter, through about
ninety feet of solid rock, when the auger suddenly fell two feet,
and there gushed up with great force a stream of strong white
sulphur water. The water, which is pure, is supposed to be
forced up by its own gas. It leaves on the ground, near the
spring, a heavy white deposit.
" The source of Cold creek is a beautiful and curious flooding
spring, rising from a level prairie at the village of Castalia.
This spring is about two hundred feet in diameter, and sixty feet
deep. The water is so pure that the smallest particle can be
seen at the bottom, and when the sun is in the meridian, all the
objects at the bottom, logs, stumps, etc., reflect the hues of the
rainbow, forming a view of great beauty. The constituents of
the water are lime, soda, magnesia, and iron, and it petrifies all
objects, such as grass, stumps, bushes, moss, etc., with which it
comes in contact. The stream courses about three miles through
the prairie, and empties into Lake Erie. The water is very cold,
but never freezes, and at its point of entrance into the lake,
prevents the formation of ice. Upon it are the well known Castalia and Cold creek mills, the water wheels of which are imperishable from decay, in consequence of their being incrusted by
petrifaction."
The climate in the southern part of the state is mild. The
summers are warm and regular, but subject at times to severe
drought. In the northern part of the state the winters are
probably as severe as in the same latitude on the Atlantic coast.
In agricultural products Ohio stands among the first.  The
soil is fertile, especially on the river bottoms. Coal is abundant;
it is found in twenty counties in the state.




THE WESTERN STATES.                 251
COLUMBUS,
The capital of Ohio, is situated on the east bank of the Scioto
river, ninety miles from its mouth. The surrounding country is
rich and populous. The site of Columbus is level; the streets
are wide and laid out with great neatness and regularity. It
has many elegant'public buildings, among which are a new state
house, the Ohio lunatic asylum, the institution for the blind, the
asylum for the deaf and dumb, and the Ohio penitentiary. The
city was laid out in 1812, and incorporated in 1816. Its population in 1860 numbered eighteen thousand five hundred and
fifty-four.  The other important places are Cincinnati, Cleveland, Dayton, Toledo, Zanesville, Sandusky, Chillicothe, Hamilton, and Springfield.
CINCINNATI,
Called the Queen of the West, is the largest city in the state.
It is situated on the right bank of the Ohio river, one hundred
and twenty miles south-west of Columbus. It is situated near
the eastern extremity of a valley, about three miles in diameter,
surrounded by beautiful hills, some of which rise about four
hundred feet above the river. A lovely view of the city and
valley is obtained from the summit of these hills.
Cincinnati is remarkable for its rapid growth. It was first
settled in 1788. It seems to have been originally laid out with
great regularity.  A large proportion of the entire valley is
already built up, and the central and business portion is compactly and finely built with large warehouses, stores and handsome
dwellings; but the outer portion is but partially built up, the
streets being irregular and the houses scattered.  The streets are
wide, with sidewalks paved with brick and stone, and many of
them lined with shade trees. The city contains one hundred
and five churches, five colleges, three of which are medical,
eighteen common schools, two intermediate, and three high
schools. The charity institutions of the city are highly respectable. Under its control and support, are a house of refuge, an
infirmary, a dispensary, and a lunatic asylum. Its population
in 1864, was about one hundred and eighty-six thousand.




252               THE WESTERN STATES.
CLEVELAND
Is situated on the southern shore of Lake Erie, at the mouth
of the Cuyahoga river, one hundred and thirty miles north-east
of Columbus, and two hundred and fifty-five miles from Cincinnati. It is one of the most beautiful towns in the union. Nearly all of the city is situated on a gravelly plain, elevated about
one hundred feet above the lake, of which it has a most commanding prospect. A public square of about ten acres occupies
the center of the town.  The court-house and one or two
churches front on this square. In the center stands the statue
of Commodore Perry, the hero of the battle of Lake Erie. It
is the largest marble statue in the United States, and was erected by the citizens at a cost of eight thousand dollars.
The public schools of Cleveland rank among the first in the
country.  It has twenty primary schools, twenty secondary,
twenty-three intermediate, nine grammar, and two high schools.
The high schools are handsome edifices of stone and brick. The
course of study prescribed fits the graduate to enter college
without further preparation.
Cleveland was settled in 1796, and incorporated in 1836. In
1860 the population was forty-three thousand four hundred and
seventeen.  Since 1862, the population has rapidly increased,
and in 1865, it was not less than sixty thousand.
DAYTON
Is situated on the east bank of the great Miami river, at the
mouth of Mad river, sixty-seven miles west of Columbus, and
fifty-two miles from Cincinnati.  The town is laid out with
streets one hundred feet wide, crossing each other at right angles.
The public buildings are fine, and the city also contains many
elegant private residences. The court-house, which cost the city
one hundred and -seventy thousand dollars, is one of the finest
in the western states. The abundant water power which Dayton
possesses, is one of the chief elements of its prosperity. It is
extensively engaged in manufactures. In 1866 its population
was about thirty thousand.




THE WESTERN STATES.                 253
TOLEDO
Is situated at the western extremity of Lake Erie, on an elevated plain on the left bank of the Maumee river, about four
miles from its mouth, one hundred and thirty-four miles northwest of Columbus, and one hundred and twelve miles west of
Cleveland. At this point the river expands into a broad and
beautiful harbor, affording accommodations for the largest vessels
and steamers. The city stretches along the river for more than
a mile, and has two points at which business centres, called the
upper and lower landing. It was originally two distinct settlements. At these two points the stores, warehouses and dwellings are thickly crowded together,. but between them it is rather
thinly settled. It was incorporated as a city in 1836. The
population in 1865 was between eighteen and twenty thousand.
ZANESVILLE
Is situated on the east bank, in a bend of the Muskingum
river, about sixty-five miles above its mouth, and fifty-four miles
east of Columbus. " The river seems once to have run nearly
in a right line, from which, however, it has gradually diverged
to the westward, forming a horse-shoe curve, and depositing,
through successive centuries, an alluvium of gravel, sand, etc.,
of great depth, on which Zanesville now stands." In sweeping
around this curve, through the space of about one and threefourths miles, the river falls eight or ten feet, and, by the aid of
a dam, a fall of between sixteen and seventeen feet is obtained,
thus furnishing very extensive water-power. Steamboats ascend
from the Ohio to this point, and several of them make regular
passages between Zanesville and Cincinnati. The plan of the
town is regular, the streets are wide and adorned by many fine
buildings. The city contains fourteen churches, and a number
of well organized public schools. It was laid out in 1799. The
seat of state government was removed from Chillicothe to this
place in 1810, and about two years later transferred to Columbus. In 1860, the population was nine thousand two hundred
and twenty-nine.




254                THE WESTERN STATES.
SANDUSKY
Is situated on Sandusky bay, about one hundred and five
miles from Columbus, and sixty from Cleveland.  The bay is
about twenty miles long and five or six miles wide, with an average depth of twelve feet, forming an excellent harbor, large
enough to admit with safety vessels of all sizes, during the severest storms.  The situation of the city is pleasant, rising
gradually from the bay, and commanding a fine view of the
harbor, thronged with steamboats and other vessels, taking in
and discharging cargoes. The city is built upon an inexhaustible bed of the finest limestone, which is not only used for
building purposes, but forms an important article of export.
Sandusky contains many elegant churches, dwellings and warehouses. It was laid out in 1817, under the name of Portland.
In 1865, it had about fourteen thousand inhabitants.
CHILLICOTHE
Is situated on the west bank of the Scioto, forty-five miles
south of Columbus, and ninety-three miles from Cincinnati.
The site of the city is remarkably beautiful, on a plain elevated
about thirty feet above the river. The Scioto winds gracefully
around the north of this plain, and Paint creek flows on the
south.  It is enclosed by verdant and cultivated hills, which
attain an altitude of about five hundred feet, forming the background of a landscape which can scarcely be surpassed in the
western states. The plan of the town is regular; the streets
are wide, and adorned by many handsome buildings. It was
founded in 1796. In 1860 the population was seven thousand
six hundred and twenty-six.
HAMILTON
Is situated on both sides of the Miami, twenty-two miles north
of Cincinnati, and ninety miles south-west of Columbus. It is
neatly built, and has an elegant public square, on which stand
the county buildings. It was incorporated in 1853. Previous
to that time it included only the portion on the east side of the
river, that on the west being called Rossville. The population
is about seven thousand nine hundred and twenty-three.




THE WESTERN STATES.                255
SPRINGFIELD
Is situated at the confluence of Mad river with Lagonda
creek, forty-three miles west of Columbus, and eighty-four miles
north-east of Cincinnati.  It is considered, by many, the most
beautiful town in Ohio. It is surrounded by a handsome and
fertile country, and is noted for the morality and intelligence of
its inhabitants.
INDIANA.
Indiana was settled by the French in the early part of the
eighteenth century. Like other French settlements its population did not increase very rapidly until the arrival of the Americans.  The settlements remained without much accession to
their numbers for some time after the close of the American
revolution. In 1800, that portion of the United States which
now comprises the states of Indiana and Illinois became a territorial government, and in 1816 Indiana became an independent
member of the confederacy. In 1811 the American settlements
were attacked by the Shawnee tribe, who committed great depredations. The Indians, it is said, were incited by the British, who
furnished them with arms.  General Harrison was sent against
them, and routed them completely at Tippecanoe, but with the
loss of two hundred of his own men.
Indiana has no mountains or great elevations, but portions
south of the White river are somewhat hilly and rugged. Nearly
all of the streams empty into the Ohio, showing a general inclination of the surface in that direction.  Most of the rivers have
rich alluvial bottoms of a few miles in width.  The northern
part of the state is heavily timbered. Bordering on Lake Michigan are some sand hills about two hundred feet in hight, behind
which is a region covered with pine.
The climate of Indiana is somewhat milder than on the Atlantic coast, but subject to sudden changes. The soil is generally
good, and much of it, especially on the river bottoms, very fertile. The country between the rivers is somewhat elevated, and
the soil, though good, is not quite as fertile as on the river
bottoms.




256               THE WESTERN STATES.
Indiana has no foreign commerce, but Lake Michigan, bordering on the north-western part of the state for about forty
miles, opens to it the trade of the great lakes, while the Ohio,
which forms the entire southern boundary of the state, gives it
access to the commerce of the Ohio and Mississippi valleys.
Wyandotte cave, in Crawford county, is said to rival in extent
and interest the celebrated Mammoth cave of Kentucky. In the
year 1850, new chambers and galleries were discovered, abounding in stalactites and other calcareous concretions of great size
and splendor. Previous to that time it had only been explored
for about three miles. Epsom Salts cave is also quite celebrated.
It is situated in the side of a hill four hundred feet high. The
earth of the floor yields epsom salts, nitre, aluminous earth, and
gypsum.
INDIANAPOLIS,
The largest city, and capital of the state, is situated on the
west fork of White river, near the center of the state, one hundred and nine miles north-west of Cincinnati. When this place
was selected for the capital of Indiana in 1820, the whole country
for forty miles in every direction, was covered with a dense forest.
In 1825, the seat of government was permanently established
at this place. It is a regularly built and beautiful city, with a
handsome state-house, court-house, jail, and state asylums for the
blind, deaf and dumb, and insane. The lunatic hospital was
established in 1848, and, in 1862 had two hundred and ninetyeight patients.
New Albany, Evansville, Fort Wayne, Lafayette, Terre
iaute, Madison, Richmond, Laporte, Jeffersonville and Logansport, are also important places.
NEW ALBANY
Is situated on the right bank of the Ohio river, five miles
below Louisville, and one hundred and thirty-six miles below
Cincinnati.  It is actively engaged in commerce. More steamboats are built at this place than any other town on the Ohio
river. In the year 1864, twenty-six steamboats were launched.




THE WESTERN STATES.                 257
The city is remarkable for its rapid growth. It was laid out
in 1813. It now has eighteen churches, a collegiate institute,
a Presbyterian theological seminary, four banks, and five large
public school houses. Its population in 1865 numbered about
eighteen thousand.
EVANSVILLE
Is situated on a high bank on the Ohio river, about two hundred miles below Louisville. The course of the river is here so
winding that Evansville is not far from the center of the county.
It is the principal shipping port for the grain and pork of southwestern Indiana. The navigation of the Ohio is seldom obstructed
either by drought or ice below this place.
Evansville contains about thirty churches, a fine court house,
five banks, one theatre, and four public halls. Its population
numbers about eleven thousand five hundred.
FORT WAYNE
Is situated at the confluence of the St. Joseph's and St. Mary's
rivers, which form the Maumee, and on the Wabash and Erie
canal, one hundred and twelve miles north-east of Indianapolis.
It is a town of rapid growth, and one of the most important in
the state. The surrounding region is highly productive, and a
large portion of the land is under cultivation.  The site of the
town is that of the old Twightwee village of the Miami tribe.
Fort Wayne was erected by order of General Wayne, in 1794,
and continued to be a military post until 1819. Its present
population is about twenty thousand.
LAFAYETTE
Is pleasantly situated on a gradually rising ground on the left
bank of the Wabash river, sixty-six miles north-west of Indianapolis. Its situation affords a delightful view of the river and
of the neighboring hills. It is a place of active trade, and one of
the principal grain markets in the state. It contains a large and
handsome court house which cost twenty thousand dollars, thirteen churches, some of which are large and handsome buildings,
four banks, two of which are national, two academies and four
17




258                THE WESTERN STATES.
public schools, one of which is a fine structure, having recently
been completed at a cost of about twenty thousand dollars. Its
population in 1860 numbered nine thousand three hundred and
eighty-seven.
TERRE HAUTE
Is situated on the east bank of the Wabash river, seventythree miles south-west of Indianapolis. The situation of the city
is remarkably beautiful.  The bank upon which the town is
built is elevated about sixty feet above the river. The streets
of the city are wide and bordered with numerous shade trees.
The opposite banks of the river are connected by a fine bridge,
over which the national road passes. Fort Harrison prairie, on
the west border of which the town stands, is very fertile, and
noted for its beautiful landscapes.  The city contains a fine
court house, a town hall, three banks, a large academy, and
about twelve churches; also the State Normal school, which is
one of the finest architectural structures in the state. Its population numbers about ten thousand six hundred.
MADISON
Is situated on the Ohio river, in a valley about three miles in
length, which is enclosed on the north by steep and rugged hills
about four hundred feet high. It is actively engaged in steamboat trade. The navigation of the river below this place is
usually open all winter. The city is handsomely laid out and
well built.  It contains a fine court house, three public halls,
thirteen churches, a United States hospital, four banks, and
three large public schools. In 1865 its population was about
fourteen thousand.
RICHMOND
Is pleasantly situated on the east fork of Whitewater river.
More labor is employed in this place in the manufacture of cotton, wool, paper, flour, and iron than in any other city in the
state.  The Indiana yearly meeting of the society of Friends is,




THE WESTERN STATES.                 259
held at this place. The surrounding country is the most populous and highly cultivated in the state. Its population in 1860
was about six thousand six hundred.
LAPORTE
Is situated on the border of a beautiful and highly cultivated
prairie of the same name, twelve miles from Lake Michigan.  It
is a place of active trade.  It contains the Indiana medical college, an academy and a bank. Its population in 1860 was about
five thousand, but in consequence of its rapid growth, the census
of 1870 will most likely nearly double that number.
JEFFERSONVILLE
Is situated on the Ohio river, nearly opposite Louisville.' The situation is elevated, and commands a delightful view of
the city of Louisville, of the broad and winding river with
its verdant islands, and a range of hills a few miles distant."
It contains eight churches, one bank, three United States hospitals, and one of the state prisons of Indiana.
LOGANSPORT
Is situated on the Wabash river and canal, at the mouth of
Eel river, seventy miles north-west of Indianapolis. The city is
actively engaged in trade. It has valuable water power which
is employed in manufactures to some extent. The city was laid
out in 1827. It now contains eight churches, two academies,
one bank, and a court house built of hewn stone, one of the finest
in the state. The population numbers about five thousand.
ILLINOIS.
In 1673, Marquette, a French traveler, visited Illinois, and
in the latter part of the seventeenth century, settlements
were made by the French at Cahokia and Kaskaskia.  These,
however, like other French colonies, did not increase rapidly.
In 1800, in connection with Indiana, it formed a part of a separate territory, called Indiana.  In 1809, the present state was
organized as the territory of Illinois, and in 1818 it was admitted into the union.  Since that time its population has increased




260                 THE WESTERN STATES.
very rapidly. According to the census of 1860, it numbered
one million seven hundred and eleven thousand seven hundred
and fifty-three.
The state is generally level, having few hills, and no mountains. There are elevated bluffs on the Mississippi and Illinois
rivers, also a small tract of hilly country in the southern part
of the state. The lowest portion is about three hundred and
forty feet, and the highest only eight hundred feet above the
Gulf of Mexico.  A large portion of the state consists of prairie
land.
The scenery of Illinois presents few bold and striking features, yet it is not entirely without attractions. The prairies
are not generally fiat, but gracefully undulating, and covered
with waving grass, and a profusion of lovely wild flowers. For
quiet landscape beauty they are unsurpassed, and a person unaccustomed to prairie land, perhaps might find no object of natural
scenery as interesting as these.   Along the rivers are bluffs
which, in rugged grandeur, almost rival mountain scenery. The
most remarkable of these are on the Mississippi river, and are
from one hundred to four hundred feet high. One of these,
called Fountain Bluff, is of an oval shape, six miles in circuit,
and three hundred feet high. The top of this bluff is full of
sink-holes, or depressions in the surface of the ground. There
are two eminences on the Illinois river, one of which is called
Starved Rock, the other, Lover's Leap.   Perhaps'Thirsty
Roc'k' would be a more appropriate name for the former.  It
received its name from a band of Illinois Indians having taken
refuge here, who, being surrounded by the Pottawatomies, all
died, not of starvation, but of thirst.  It is a perpendicular mass
of limestone, situated about eight miles below Ottawa, and oine
hundred and fifty feet above the river.  Lover's Leap, consisting
of a ledge of precipitous rocks, is situated some distance above
Starved Rock.  In HIardin county, on the Ohio river, there is
a cave, the entrance to which is but a little above the bed of
the river.  This cave slopes gradually from  its entrance for
about one hundred and eighty feet, when a second entrance leads
to another cave, the dimensions of which are not known.  This




THE WESTERN STATES.                  261
cave was, in 1797, the abode of a band of robbers, who were
the terror of Ohio boatmen.  Since that time several bands of
robbers have taken refuge in this cave.
A large portion of the great lead region is in the limits of
Illinois. The coal-fields of Illinois are estimated to occupy an
area of about forty-four thousand square miles.  Bituminous
coal is found in almost every county, and a bed of anthracite
coal is reported to have been discovered in Jackson county.
Copper, lime, zinc, marble, free-stone, gypsum, and quartz crystals are also found.  The state contains several medicinal
springs, one of which, in Jefferson county, is much resorted to.
Lake Michigan forms the north-eastern boundary of the state
for about sixty miles, and adds greatly to its commercial importance. The Mississippi forms the entire western boundary, and
the Ohio the southern, thus giving it access to the commerce of
these great valleys.  The Wabash forms its eastern boundary
for about three hundred miles. The other principal rivers are
the Illinois, Rock, Sangamon? and Iaskaskia.  The Illinois is
formed by the union of the Des Plaines and Kankakee rivers.
It has a very sluggish current, and in times of freshets the
waters of the Mississippi back up into it for about seventy
miles. It is navigable at all times for about two hundred and
eighty-six miles, and at high water, for some distance farther.
Rock river is about three hundred and twenty miles in length.
The current is obstructed by rapids in several places, but at a
moderate expense it might be made navigable.  Already the
subject has been much agitated, and probably at no distant day,
the improvement of the river will begin.  It flows through an
extensive plain noted  for its fertility and beautiful scenery.
The Sangamon is about two hundred miles in length.  It is navigable for small steamboats at high rater.  The Kaskaskia, a
fine, navigable stream, is about three hundlred miles in length.
The climate of Illinois is somewhat milder tlhan that of the
Atlantic states in the same latitude.  Its great length gives it
considerable variation in climate. Its agricultural capabilities
are unsurpassed by any state in the union.  In some of the




262                THE WESTERN STATES.
river bottoms the soil is twenty-five feet deep, and the upland
prairies are nearly, if not quite, as fertile.
On the formation of the state constitution, one section in each
township was appropriated to the support of common schools,
and subsequently an additional income of three per cent. on the
proceeds from the sale of the public lands within the state. In
the year 1853, the school fund yielded an income of two hundred and ninety-nine thousand and forty-seven dollars.
Illinois has a state lunatic asylum at Jacksonville, a state penitentiary at Joliet, and a deaf and dumb asylum at Jacksonville.
SPRINGFIELD,
The capital, is situated three miles south of the Sangamon
river. The streets are wide and straight. A new state house
has been erected. Besides this, the town contains a court-house,
four banks, a state arsenal, thirteen churches, and several academies. Springfield will ever be memorable as having been the
residence of Abraham Lincoln, late president of the United
States. (See view.)
The other important places are Chicago, Peoria, Quincy,
Galena, Belleville, Alton, Rockford, Bloomington, Ottawa, Aurora, Lincoln, Rock Island and Galesburg.
CHICAGO,
The largest city, and the most important commercial center
of the north-western states, is situated in the north-eastern part
of the state, on Lake Michigan. The city is built on the lake
shore, and along the banks of the Chicago river and its two
branches, its limits extending westward for about five miles.
The city has, within the last thirty-five years, risen from a
small military post or fur station, till now it is the great metropolis of the northwestern states, and the largest interior city of
the United States. In 1833, the site of the city, together with
the land which now forms the states of Illinois and Wisconsin,
was purchased from the Indians.  Walking in the imposing




THE WESTERN STATES.                  263
streets of the Chicago of to-day, it is difficult to realize that
thirty-five years have not elapsed since the red men were dispossessed of the very site on which the city now stands.
The prairie on that part of the shore of Lake Michigan
appears to the eye fiat as the lake itself, and its average hight
above the lake is not more than six feet.  The entire business
portion of the city has, during the last ten years, been raised
from six to eight feet above its former level. This greatly facilitates drainage, besides rendering it possible to have dry cellars
for store houses. The grading and filling up, and raising the
buildings to the new grade, cost the city upwards of a million of
dollars.
The river was originally but a small creek, that emptied into
the lake; the inlet was twenty feet deep, but the mouth was
obstructed by a sand-bar, and it only admitted vessels of thirty
or forty tons.  In 1833, the United States spent thirty thousand dollars in improving the harbor, and in 1834 a freshet
swept away the bar at the mouth of the river, making it accessible to the largest ships that sail the lakes.  At the present time,
over nine hundred vessels, carrying in all, upwards of two hundred thousand tons, and employing about ten thousand sailors,
ply between Chicago and the other lake ports. In the winter,
after navigation is closed, four hundred vessels may be counted
in the harbor, frozen up safely in the ice. Vessels can ascend
the river a distance of five or six miles on the south branch, and
from four to five on the north branch. Along the river and its
branches, are immense warehouses, some of which are capable
of storing one million five hundred thousand bushels of grain.
Miles of timber yards extend along one of the forks, and the
harbor is choked by arriving and departing vessels.  (See views
of Chicago river.) The people of Chicago have had a long and
severe struggle with their river, and they have not yet made a
complete conquest of it. The river and its two forks so divide
the town, that it is impossible to go far in any direction without
crossing one of them. In old times, the Indians carried people
over in their canoes.  In course of time, the canoes expanded
into commodious row boats; next floating bridges were tried;




264                THE WESTERN STATES.
afterwards draw-bridges came into use, seventeen of which now
span the river. These draw-bridges are rather in the way at
present.  Unfavorable winds sometimes detain vessels on the
lake, until three hundred of them are waiting to enter. When
the wind changes, the whole fleet comes streaming in, each towed
by a puffing and snorting little tug-boat.   Occasionally the
bridges can be closed for a few moments, and then there is a
tremendous rush to cross the river.  These are exceptional
cases, and some days the bridges are seldom opened; but as it is,
they are a great inconvenience; however, this will soon be a thing
of the past.  Already one tunnel has been constructed (see
view No. 40,) at a cost of two hundred thousand dollars, and
in a short time these seventeen maddening draw-bridges will
have been superseded by seventeen tunnels.
The streets of Chicago are regular, and nearly all of them
eighty feet wide. The city is laid out in rectangular blocks.
(See views from the dome of city hall.) The principal streets
are now paved with Nicholson pavement, or wooden blocks, which
are found to be more durable than stone pavement.
The business portion of the city was formerly built mostly of
brick, but this is now almost entirely superseded by "' Athens
marble."  An inexhaustible quarry of this stone was discovered
by some workmen while digging a canal at Athens. a point about
fourteen miles south-west of the city. It is soft, and of a light
cream color. At first it was regarded as useless, but it was
afterwards found to harden on exposure to the air, and it is now
recognized as the very best and most elegant building material
in the country. It possesses the virtue of being easily worked
when first quarried, but is hard in the finished wall.  The general
use of this light colored stone gives to the principal streets of
Chicago a cheerful, light and airy appearanee. (See street views
of Chicago.)
The principal public buildings are the city hall, built of stone
brought from Lockport, New York, (see view,) and chamber of
commerce, built of Athens stone. (See views.) This is an elegant, spacious apartment, decorated with fine fresco paintings by
resident Italian artists. It is ninety-three feet in width, one




THE WESTERN STATES.                 265
hundred and eighty feet long and one hundred feet high. It
cost the city about four hundred thousand dollars. Among the
elegant church edifices are the First and Second Presbyterian,
the latter of which is built of a dark oily stone, dug out of the
prairie immediately west of the city; Trinity, St. James, Church
of the Redeemer, Methodist, First Unitarian, Church of the
Holy Name, Church of the Holy Family, Unity, and New England. (See views.)
Tremont and Sherman houses are among the first class hotels.
(See views.) Among the other prominent buildings are Potter
Palmer's building, Crosby's opera house and the custom house.
(See views.)  The city contains three large book stores, the
shelves of which are crowded with the best literature. (See
views.)
"' Along the lake, south of the river, extend the beautiful avenues which change insensibly into those streets of cottages and
gardens which have given to Chicago the name of the'Garden
City.'"  (See avenue views.)  " This is a pleasant umbrageous
quarter where glimpses are caught of the blue lake that stretches
away to the east for sixty miles."
There are seventeen public schools and a high school in Chicago, which are among the very best in the United States. The
buildings are large, handsome and convenient.  (See views.)
The attendance at the high school ranges from seven hundred to
two thousand. The university, under the auspices of the Baptist denomination, is situated just in the outskirts of the city, in
Cottage Grove. (See views.)
The city is provided with water from the lake, but that near
the shore is impure on account of the large amount of filth which
runs out of the river.  A tunnel has recently been constructed
extending under the bed of the lake two miles from the shore,
(See views,) so that the city is supplied with pure lake wrater.
" The work is really something to be proud of, not for its nmagnitude, but for the simplicity, originality, and boldness of the
idea."  The tunnel is five feet in diameter, and cut thirty-five
feet below the bed of the lake. A shaft is sunk on the shore




266                THE WESTERN STATES.
eighty-seven feet deep, and an iron one nine feet in diameter in
the lake at the extreme end of the tunnel. Around this shaft
there is an immense crib built of heavy timber.  (See views.)
Chicago is the great commercial metropolis of the north-west.
It is the largest interior grain market in the world, the greatest
lumber market in the United States, second only to New York
as a beef and cattle market, and as a beef and pork packing
point it stands first in the United States. It is the center of a
railroad system which includes about five thousand miles of track.
Its railroad depots are immense in extent and admirably constructed.  (See views.)  The great Union Central depot has
under cover three quarters of a mile of track. Three trains can
start from it at the same moment without the least danger of
interference, and no passenger is obliged to cross a track in
changing cars.
No city in the United States has increased in population so
rapidly as Chicago. In 1830 there resided in Chicago four
white families. In 1881 there were twelve. In 1837, when the
first census was taken, the entire population numbered four
thousand one hundred and seventy. In 1865 it was estimated
at one hundred and seventy-five thousand.
PEORIA
Is situated on the west bank of the Illinois river, seventy
miles north of Springfield.  The river here expands into a
broad and deep lake, which adds greatly to the scenery of the
town.  A draw-bridge connects the city with the opposite shore
of the river.  The town is situated on rising ground, while back
of it extends one of the most beautiful rolling prairies in the
state.  Near the center of the city a public square has been
reserved. The schools and churches are prosperous, and the
society good.  The population in 1860 was fourteen thousand
and forty-five.
QUINCY
Is situated on the Mississippi river, one hundred and seventyfive miles above St. Louis.  The country in the vicinity is a rich




THE WESTERN STATES.                  267
and rolling prairie, and one of the best cultivated in the state.
The city is quite extensively engaged in commerce, by means of
steamboats on the Mississippi river. It has a large public
square, a good court-house, twenty-four churches, ten public
halls, two national banks, an armory, and four United States
hospitals.  Its population in 1860 numbered sixteen thousand
six hundred and seventy-two.
GALENA
Is situated on the Fevre river, six miles from its entrance to
the Mississippi river, and four hundred and fifty miles above St.
Louis. The Fevre river is navigable by steamboats, which make
regular passages to St. Louis, St. Paul, and other ports on the
Mississippi river. The river is more properly an arm of the
Mississippi, setting up between lofty bluffs, and winding around
their base with picturesque effect.  The streets are built one
above another, and communicate by means of steps.  Galena
owes its growth and importance mainly to the rich mines of lead
with which it is surrounded in all directions. Its population in
1860 was eight thousand one hundred and ninety-six.
BELLEVILLE
Is situated fourteen miles south-east from  St. Louis.  It is
actively engaged in trade and manufactures, and growing very
rapidly. Its population in 1864 numbered ten thousand.
ALTON
Is situated on the Mississippi river, three miles above the
mouth of the Missouri, and twenty-one miles above St. Louis.
Alton is one of the oldest towns in the state.  It is the seat of
the diocese of the Roman Catholic church for Southern Illinois.
The state penitentiary was formerly located at this place, but
has since been removed to Joliet.
ROCKFORD
Is beautifully situated on both sides of Rock river. It is a
flourishing city, the center of an active business, and contains
seventeen churches, seven public schools, a female seminary, and
three newspaper offices. Its water power is one of the finest in




268               THE WESTERN STATES.
the west, and its manufactures amount in value to about four
millions of dollars per annum. Its growth since 1836 has been
very rapid.  Population at the present time, about twelve
thousand. (See views of Rockford.)
BLOOMINGTON
Is situated on the Illinois Central railroad, one hundred and
twenty-six miles south-west of Chicago.  The State Normal
University is situated two miles north of the city. It is an imposing building, said to have cost two hundred thousand dollars.
It is attended by about five hundred students.
OTTAWA
Is situated on both sides of the Illinois river, just below the
mouth of Fox river, eighty-four miles south-west of Chicago.
The Fox river, at this point, has a fall of about twenty-nine
feet, producing a city water-power which is said to be unsurpassed by any in the state.  In 1865 the population numbered
about ten thousand.
AURORA
Is a flourishing city situated on the Fox river, forty miles
south-west of Chicago.  Population in 1864, eight thousand
seven hundred and fifty.
LINCOLN
Is a flourishing town, situated on Salt creek, twenty-eight
miles north-east of Springfield. This place, the origin of which
is quite recent, was named in honor of Abraham Lincoln. Its
population is about five thousand seven hundred.
ROCK ISLAND
Is situated o:n the Mississippi river, two miles above the mouth
of Rock river, and one hundred and eighty-two miles south-west
of Chicago. The place derives its name from an island three
miles in length, the southern extremity of which is nearly opposite the town. This island is partly covered with woods, and
affords an agreeable retreat in the heat of the summer.  It
presents a perpendicular front of limestone twenty or thirty feet




THE WESTERN STATES.                 269
high. Rock Island is remarkable for its flourishing manufactures. A bridge across the river connects it with Davenport,
Iowa. Its population in 1865 numbered about seven thousand
five hundred.
GALESBURG
Is situated on the Chicago, Burlington and Quincy railroad,
one hundred and sixty-five miles south-west of Chicago. It is
situated in a rich farming district, and has an active business.
Population in 1865, about seven thousand.
KENTUCKY.
This state formed a part of Virginia until 1792. It was first
explored by Daniel Boone in 1769. The early settlers were
much annoyed by the Indians, who made frequent incursions
and attacks upon their villages. Their bloody contests with
these savage foes gave rise to the name of Kentucky, which
means "'the dark and bloody ground."
The Cumberland mountains form the south-eastern boundary
of the state.  A range of hills runs nearly parallel with the Ohio
river. West of the Cumberland river the surface is generally
level; the rest of the state is undulating and hilly. Kentucky
contains much that is picturesque in her natural scenery, and
many wild and striking objects.  The Mammoth cave is situated
about one hundred miles south-west of Louisville, in Edmondson
county, in the valley of Green river. The entrance to this cave
is in a ravine, two hundred feet above Green river, and one hundred below the table land above.  The cave abounds in interesting objects, such as streams, mounds, stalactites, stalagmites,
etc.  The stalactites and stalagmites are some of them  very
large; one of them, called the Temple, occupies an area of two
acres, and is covered by a single dome of solid rock, one hundred
and twenty feet high. Echo river, five miles from the entrance,
is the deepest and widest of the rivers, being about ten feet deep
and a quarter of a mile in width.  The water is very transparent, the sand and pebbles on the bottom being as plainly visible




270                THE WESTERN STATES.
as if seen in air. The surface of the river is nearly upon a level
with that of Green river, and it is supposed that it empties into
Green river as they usually rise and fall together. Near the
shore of the river the roof of the cave descends within a few feet
of the surface of the water, and appears like an arch sprung from
one side of the cave to the other. About half way across the
river the cavern expands into immense proportions. Here is the
remarkable echo which gives its name to the river. Sounds are
repeated millions of times, receding at each successive echo,
until they die away in the most distant chambers with a strain
of melody resembling that of a wind-harp.
A few miles farther on is Cleveland's Cabinet.  This is an
arch about twenty feet high, and twenty wide, incrusted with a
thick coating of frost, through which protrude in all directions,
buds, vine-tendrils, sun flowers, cactus leaves, etc., fashioned
from a material the most delicate, and all of pearly whiteness.
Thirteen miles from the entrance, is Serenna's bower, a small
and deep grotto, guarded by an aperture difficult of entrance.
The bottom, roof, and sides, of this bower are covered with
stalactite formations. In the side, about three feet from the
floor, is a basin of pure water, around the edge of which the
most curiously shaped pillars form, as it were, a fence for its
protection. Among the other remarkable objects of the cave,
are the Devil's Arm Chair, the Elephant's Head, the Lover's
Leap, the Gothic Chapel, the Cinder Pile, and the Bottomless
Pit.  (See views of Mammoth Cave.)  There are a number of
smaller caves in the state, which in almost any other place,
would be considered remarkable. There are also a great many
sink-holes or depressions in the surface of the ground. These
are sometimes three hundred feet in circumference, and from
sixty to seventy feet deep. They are shaped like an inverted
cone.  Frequently the sound of running water can be detected
beneath them, and in one or two cases openings have been made
revealing  subterraneous streams.  A number of streams of
considerable size disappear for some distance, and afterwards
rise again to the surface. In Breckenridge county, there is a
stream called Sinking creek, which, a few miles from its source,




THE WESTERN STATES.                  271
sinks beneath the surface, and does not re-appear again for several miles.  In Christian county, in the midst of romantic
scenery, is a natural bridge, thirty feet high and sixty feet in
span. There are numerous mounds or fortifications in the state,
erected, it is supposed, by a race who occupied the country at
some period antecedent to the Indians.
The climate of Kentucky is milder than the same latitude on
the Atlantic coast, but subject to sudden changes. The soil is
very fertile; there is but a small portion of the state which is
not capable of cultivation.
The state is actively engaged in commerce. The Ohio forms
its entire northern boundary, and the Mississippi its western,
giving it access to the commerce of these great valleys. The
other important rivers are the Cumberland, Tennessee, Licking,
Kentucky, Salt, and Green rivers. The Cumberland rises in the
south-eastern part of the state, in the Cumberland mountains.
Its whole length is six hundred miles, three hundred and fifty of
which passes through Kentucky.  It is navigable for large
steamboats as far as Nashville, Tennessee, about two hundred
miles from its mouth, and small boats ascend about three hundred miles further.  The Tennessee river crosses the western
part of the state, and enters the Ohio river about forty-eight
miles from its mouth. The navigation of the river is unobstructed as far as Florence, at the foot of Muscle Shoals.  Here it is
obstructed by rapids, but above the rapids it is navigable for
some distance, making, in all, about five hundred miles of navigable water. Licking river rises in the Cumberland mountains,
pursues a north-westerly direction, and empties into the Ohio,
opposite Cincinnati. It is about two hundred miles in length,
and navigable for small steamboats for about fifty miles from
its mouth. Kentucky river is formed by the union of three
small rivers. The length of the main stream is about two hundred miles.  Steamboats ascend as far as Frankfort, and flatboats ascend about one hundred miles further.  Salt river is
formed from the union of two small rivers.  It derives its name
from the number of salt springs which abound near it. The
main stream flows in a north-westerly direction, and empties into




272               THE WESTERN STATES.
the Ohio twenty-two miles below Louisville. Green river rises
in the east central part of the state. During its course it traverses the cavernous limestone formation and passes by Mammoth
cave.  It is about three hundred miles in length.  The lower
part of the river is navigable for steamboats at all seasons of
the year, and during high water, small steamboats have ascended for about two hundred miles from its mouth.
FRANKFORT,
The capital of Kentucky, is beautifully situated on the right
bank of Kentucky river, sixty miles from its mouth and fiftythree miles east of Louisville. The city stands on an elevated
plain, commanding a delightful view of the picturesque scenery
for which the Kentucky river is so remarkable. The town is
regularly laid out and generally well built. It contains a handsome state house, built of Kentucky marble, quarried in the
vicinity. The governor's house, a state penitentiary, a court
house, six churches, one academy, and two banking houses.
The population is about three thousand seven hundred. The
other important places are Louisville, Covington, Newport and
Lexington.
LOUISVILLE
Is situated on the Ohio river, one hundred and thirty miles
below Cincinnati, and fifty-three miles west of Frankfort.  The
city stands upon a plain elevated about seventy feet above low
water, and commanding a delightful view of the Ohio river and
of the rapids immediately below. The city is well built and regularly laid out. Parallel to the river are eight handsome streets,
about two miles in length, which are intersected at right angles
by more than thirty different streets.
The principal public buildings are the city hall, court house,
medical institute and the university. Besides these the city has
a marine asylum, two orphan asylums, forty churches, two synagogues, a prison, four banks, and four large public school
houses. In 1860 the population numbered sixty-eight thousand
and thirty-three.




THE WESTERN STATES.                 273
COVINGTON
Is situated on the Ohio river, opposite Cincinnati, and just
below the mouth of Licking river. It may be considered as a
suburb of Cincinnati, and is laid out according to the same plan.
The city contains ten churches, three banks, a large city hall,
two female academies and the western theological college, which
is under the direction of the Baptists. In 1860 the population
was sixteen thousand four hundred and seventy-one.
NEWPORT
Is situated on the Ohio river, opposite from Cincinnati, and
just above the mouth of Licking river, which separates it from
Covington. It owes its rapid growth to its proximity to Cincinnati and its beautiful situation. It contains twelve churches
and one bank. Its population is about ten thousand.
LEXINGTON
Is situated twenty-five miles south-east of Frankfort, and ninety-four miles east of Louisville.  It was formerly the capital of
Kentucky. The situation is delightful, and its general appearance is surpassed by few inland towns. The city contains a
university, a state lunatic asylum, a court house, two banks, a
public library, several academies, a museum, an orphan asylum
and twelve churches. A monument is contemplated, to be erected
to the memory of Henry Clay, who resided at Ashland, a mile
and a half from the city. Lexington was founded in 1776,
while the news of the battle of that name was fresh in the minds
of its founders. In 1860 its population was nine thousand five
hundred and twenty-one.
TENNESSEE.
The country now constituting the state of Tennessee, was
originally comprised within the state of North Carolina. It
was ceded to the general government in 1784, but the grant was
afterwards revoked.  At that time hostilities had been commenced by the Indians; they were without a government of
their own, and unprotected by the troops of North Carolina.
18




274               THE WESTERN STATES.
A large proportion of her people determined to form an independent state government, which would enable them to legally
assemble a military force for defense.  The new state was
organized under the name of Frankland, in 1786. This gave
rise to considerable trouble, and the state was finally ceded to
the United States government, and formed a part of the Southwestern Territory until 1796, when it was admitted into the
union.
The state is commonly divided, into three sections, East, West
and Middle Tennessee. East Tennessee includes that part east
of the Cumberland mountains; Middle Tennessee that part
between the Cumberland mountains and the Tennessee river;
and West Tennessee, that portion west of the Tennessee river.
East Tennessee is mountainous, Middle Tennessee is hilly, and
West Tennessee is level or gently undulating. The Alleghany
mountains form the entire eastern boundary of the state.  The
Cumberland mountains enter it from Kentucky and cross it in a
south-westerly direction, into Alabama.  There are a number
of caves in these mountains, some of them several miles in extent. In one of these, four hundred feet below the surface,
there was found a stream large enough to turn a mill. Another,
on the top of one of the mountains, has a perpendicular descent,
and its depth has never yet been ascertained. The climate of
Tennessee is mild, the winters are not severe, and the summers
are free from the intense heat of the Gulf States. The soil,
especially in the valleys, is fertile.  Some of the mountain land
is not adapted to cultivation, but is favorable to grazing.
The Mississippi river forms the western boundary of the state.
The other important rivers are the Cumberland, which flows for
about one hundred and fifty miles through Tennessee; the Tennessee river, which crosses the state twice; the Clinch, about two
hundred miles in length, and navigable for about half that distance, and the Holston, which is about two hundred miles in
length, and navigable as far as Knoxville at all seasons of the
year; besides these, there are several smaller streams, each more
or less navigable for small boats during high water.




THE WESTERN STATES.                 275
NASHVILLE,
The capital, is situated on the left bank of the Cumberland
river, two hundred miles from its mouth, and two hundred and
thirty miles north-east of Memphis. It is one of the wealthiest
and most populous cities of Tennessee.  The city is pleasantly
situated, regularly laid out, and well built. It contains many
elegant private buildings. The public buildings are also among
the best in the United States. The capitol is estimated to have
cost one million dollars. It is built of fine limestone, quarried
in the vicinity, and very nearly resembles marble. It is one of
the handsomest and most costly structures in America. A large
lunatic asylum has recently been erected.  Besides these, the
city contains a state penitentiary, a university, several female
seminaries, three banks and fourteen churches. A wire suspension bridge has recently been built across the Cumberland river,
at a cost of one hundred thousand dollars. In 1860, the population was sixteen thousand nine hundred and eighty-eight. (See
views of Nashville.)
The other important places are Memphis, Knoxville, Murfreesboro and Jackson.
MEMPHIS
Is beautifully situated on the Mississippi river, just below the
mouth of Wolf river, and two hundred and nine miles southwest of Nashville. It is situated on a bluff about seventy feet
high, and presents a very fine appearance from the river. It is
rapidly increasing in population, and is full of life and commercial activity. It is the most populous and important city between
St. Louis and New Orleans. The river is navigable for the
largest ships from this point to its mouth. The city contains
twenty-three public schools, eleven churches, one academy, four
banks, and a telegraph office.  In 1865 the population was
about forty thousand.
KNOXVILLE
Is beautifully situated on the right bank of the Holston river,
one hundred and eighty-five miles east of Nashville. The situation is elevated and commands a delightful view of the river,




276                THE WESTERN STATES.
which is navigable at all seasons of the year from this point
downwards.  The city contains an asylum  for the deaf and
dumb, a university, five churches, three banks, and several academies.  The city was laid out in 1794.  In 1860 its population
was about six thousand.
MURFREESBORO
Is situated in a beautiful plain, thirty miles south-east of
Nashville. It contains a university, founded by the Baptists, a
female institute, also under the direction of the Baptists, one
bank, and five churches.  It was formerly the capital of Tennessee. ~ The population is about two thousand nine hundred.
JACKSON
Is situated on the Forked Deer river, one hundred and fifty
miles south-west of Nashville.  It is situated in the midst of a
fertile region, and is actively engaged in trade.  It contains a
bank, two or three churches, and a flourishing college. Its
population is about two thousand four hundred.
ARKANSAS.
Arkansas was settled by the French as early as 1685, and
formed a part of the great tract purchased from France in 1803,
under the name of Louisiana. It made little progress until after
its formation into a territory of the United States in 1819.  In
1836 it became a member of the American union.
Throughout its entire length it occupies the right bank of the
Mississippi, which separates it from the states of Tennessee and
Mississippi, and renders it accessible to the sea from many points.
Its area is about fifty-two thousand one hundred and ninetyeight square miles, being about two hundred and forty miles in
length from north to south, and two hundred and twenty-four in
breadth from east to west.
The eastern part of Arkansas, for about one hundred miles
back from the Mississippi, is covered with marshes, swamps and,
lagoons, occasionally interspersed with elevations, some of which




THE WESTERN STATES.                  277
are thirty miles or more in circuit, which, when the rivers overflow their banks, form temporary islands.  In 1854, out of the
equivalent thirty-three millions four hundred and six thousand
seven hundred and twenty acres, only eight hundred and fiftyseven thousand one hundred and seventy-nine were cultivated,
very little more than one-fourth of the whole, or one-seventh of
the lands liable to taxation, as being allotted and occupied; but
since the bill passed by congress giving to. the southern and
western states all the overflowed swamp lands within their respective limits, the state of Arkansas has constructed along its
entire eastern boundary levees of great strength, by means of
which extensive tracts that have hitherto been entirely worthless, have been converted into cultivable land of extraordinary
fertility.
In climate and productions, Arkansas occupies, as it were, an
intermediate position between the states of the west and those
of the south.  The state is divided into two unequal parts by
the Ozark mountains, of which the northern has the climate and
productions of the northern states, while the southern portion
resembles that of the southern states.  The northern region is
well adapted to grazing. It produces, also, an abundance of ekcellent wheat, and, perhaps, the finest apples in the world.  This
section of the country is hilly, or rolling, and is interspersed with
prairie, and abounds with fine springs of excellent water. The
tops of the hills and mountains are often flat or rolling, and
covered with a good soil and a heavy growth of timber.  Indian
corn, cotton, and live stock form the staple products of the state.
On the bottom lands is generally found a heavy growth of cotton-wood, ash, cypress, and gum. The hickory and different
kinds of oak flourish in the mountainous or hilly portions. From
the central part of the state southward to the Red river, pine is
found in great abundance. Beech is also found in considerable
abundance on the St. Francis river.'Besides these are found
the black walnut, cherry, red cedar, dogwood, maple, poplar,
sassafras and black locust. Immense quantities of these different kinds of timber are sent down the Mississippi to New Orleans.




278                THE WESTERN STATES.
Probably no state in the union is penetrated by so many navigable rivers as Arkansas. These rivers can only be ascended
by vessels of any size, for about nine months in the year, owing
to the long continued droughts which prevail in the hot season.
The Arkansas is the principal river that passes wholly through
the state. It enters the western border of the state from the
Indian territory at Fort Smith, and sweeping almost directly
through the middle of the state, after receiving a number of
small tributaries, discharges its waters into the Mississippi.  It
is from three-eighths to half a mile wide through the last six hundred miles of its course, and navigable for about eight hundred
miles from its mouth. The north-eastern part of the state is
drained by the White river and the St. Francis with their affuents. They have their sources in the Missouri and their outlet
in the Mississippi.  The White river is navigable for about five
hundred miles, the St. Francis for three hundred miles.  Besides
these there are the Red river, running through the south-western
angle of the state, the Washita and its numerous affluents,
having an aggregate of six hundred and thirty-five miles of navigable water, and the little Missouri.  The state has no foreign
commerce, though it has considerable boating trade with New
Orleans, engaged in the export of its productions.
The mineral resources of the state are very extensive.  The
principal minerals are coal, iron, lead, zinc, manganese, gypsum,
and salt.  There is a celebrated quarry of oil stone near the Hot
Springs, superior to any thing else of the kind known in the
world. There are a great many varieties exhibiting all degrees
of fineness. The quantity is said to be inexhaustible. There
is in Pike county, on the Little Missouri river, a mountain of
alabaster of the finest quality, and white as the driven snow.
Gold is said to have been discovered in White county.  Arkansas has more gypsum than all the other states put together,
while it is equally well supplied with marble and salt.
The celebrated Hot Springs are situated in a county of the
same name, about sixty miles south-west of Little Rock.  More
than one hundred of these springs issue, at different elevations,
from a point or ridge of land forming a steep bank from one




TIIE WESTERN STATES.                 279
hundred and fifty to two hundred feet high, projecting over Hot
Spring creek, an affluent of the Washita. This creek is warm
enough to bathe in, even in the coldest weather.  A considerable
portion of the bank consists of calcareous deposits, formed from
the water as it is exposed to the air. Near the top of the bank
there is a fine cold spring, so near the warm springs, that a person can put one hand into cold, and the other into hot water at
the same time. These springs are a great resort for invalids,
their waters boinig considered particularly beneficial to persons suffering from rheumatism.  Their temperature varies from  one
hundred and thirty-five to one hundred and sixty degrees.
LITTLE ROCK,
The capital of Arkansas, is situated on the right or southern
bark of the Arkansas river, on a rocky promontory, or bluff,
about fifty feet high, commanding a delightful and extensive
view of the surrounding country.  In ascending the river, there
appears on the south bank, rising out of the water, a bald,
igneous slate rock, which, at low water, is about twenty-five feet
above the surface, but at high water is almost hidden from view.
This gave to the place the name of Little Rock. Two miles
above this point, there is another rocky bluff about two hundred
feet high, which is called Big Rock. The town contains a state
house, United States arsenal, state penitentiary, and six handsome churches. The population in 1860, was three thousand
seven hundred and twenty-seven.
The other important places are Camden, Fort Smith, and
Pine Bluff.
CAMDEN
Is situated on a high range of hills on the right bank of the
Washita river, one hundred and ten miles south-west of Little
Rock. Its growth has been very rapid. A few years ago, the
land on which the city now stands was covered with a dense
forest, and many of the trees are still standing in the streets.
The city has great advantages for trade, being at the head of
navigation for large steamers.  It was settled in 1842, and in




280                THE WESTERN STATES.
1860 the population numbered two thousand two hundred and
nineteen.
FORT SMITH
Is situated at the western boundary of the state, on the right
bank of the Arkansas river, one hundred and sixty-three miles
north-west of Little Rock. It is a military post of the United
States, and is extensively engaged in trade with the Indians.
Its population is about one thousand and five hundred.
PINE BLUFF
Is situated on the right bank of the Arkansas river, fortyeight miles south-east of Little Rock.  It is situated in a rich
cotton planting region, and ships twenty thousand bales of cotton
annually. It has about one thousand three hundred inhabitants.
MISSOURI.
The early settlers of Missouri were French.  The first settlement was made in the year 1719, near the site of the present
capital. It was purchased by the United States as a part of the
territory of Louisiana, in 1803. In 1812, when Louisiana was
admitted into the union, the remainder of the territory was named
Missouri.  In 1821 the territory applied to congress for admission into the union. A bill was introduced admitting it as a
state, but prohibiting slavery. This passed the house, but was:
arrested in the senate. After a stormy debate the question was
settled by a compromise.  A  bill passed for the admission of
Missouri without any restriction as to slavery, but prohibiting it
throughout the United States north of latitude thirty-six degrees
thirty minutes.
North of the Missouri river the surface is mostly level.  South
of this river it is varied, presenting mountains, marshes, and
prairie lands. The climate is variable. The winters are cold
and the summers very warm, but the air is dry and pure. The
soil, especially on the river bottoms, is fertile. In the southeastern part of the state there is considerable marsh land, which,
with a proper system of drainage, would probably become the
most fertile part of the state.  The principal productions of




THE WESTERN STATES.                  281
the state are Indian corn, wheat, oats, tobacco, and wool.
The Mississippi river forms its eastern boundary, and the Missouri crosses it from west to east, thus giving it access to the
commerce of the two largest rivers of the United States.
The Missouri river rises in the Rocky mountains. It is three
thousand and ninety-six miles in length. Throughout the greater
part of its course the current is very rapid, and the navigation
is somewhat difficult. Steamboats, however, meet with but little
difficulty in ascending for about two thousand five hundred and
seventy-five miles from its mouth. It forms the north-western
boundary of the state of Missouri for about two hundred miles,
then crosses it in a south-easterly direction.  On its southern
shore there are a number of bluffs from one hundred to three
hundred feet in hight. Its principal tributaries within the state
are the Chariton, Grand, Osage, and Gasconade.  The Chariton is navigable for about fifty miles from its mouth, the Grand
for only a short distance, the Osage in high water for about two
hundred, and the Gasconade for about sixty miles.
JEFFERSON CITY,
The capital of Missouri, is beautifully situated on the right
bank of the Missouri river, one hundred and fifty-five miles west
of St. Louis. The situation is elevated, and commands a fine
view of the river and of the bluffs on the opposite shore. In
1865 the population was about three thousand five hundred.
The other important towns are St. Louis, St. Joseph, Hannibal, Kansas City, and Lexington.
ST. LOUIS,
The largest city, is situated on the right bank of the Mississippi, about twenty miles below the mouth of the Missouri.
The thickly settled portion extends for about two and one half
miles, but the whole extent is about seven miles along the river
and three miles back. The natural commercial advantages of
the city are very great. It is situated midway between the Atlantic and Pacific, in the center of the finest agricultural region
in the world, on the largest river of the United States, and




282                THE WESTERN STATES.
almost at the very point where the Missouri, Ohio, and Illinois
rivers converge. The city is regularly laid out and well built.
The streets are wide, and with few exceptions intercept each
other at right angles. It contains many elegant public buildings. The new court house, built of Genevieve limestone, occupies an entire square. It cost the city about half a million of
dollars. The United States arsenal is a large and handsome
building, surrounded by handsomely ornamented grounds.
Among the finest churches are St. George, the Catholic cathedral, and the Church of the Messiah. In the tower of the cathedral there is a chime of bells, the heaviest of which weighs two
thousand six hundred pounds.  The site of St. Louis was
selected in 1764. In 1822 it was chartered as a city. In 1860
its population was one hundred and sixty thousand seven hundred and seventy-three.
ST. JOSEPH
Is situated on the left bank of the Missouri, four hundred and
ninety-six miles, by water, from St. Louis. The town was laid
out in 1843. The population in 1865 was abouit fifteen thousand.
HANNIBAL
Is situated on the Mississippi river, one hundred and fiftythree miles above St. Louis. It is a flourishing city, neatly laid
out andbwell built.  In 1865 thli population was about eight
thousand.
KANSAS CITY
Is situated on the right bank of the Missouri river, just below
the mouth of the Kansas. It contains a court house, eleven
churches and three banks. In 1864 the population was about
five thousand four hundred.
LEXINGTON
Is situated on the right bank of the Missouri, one hundred
and twenty miles west of Jefferson City. In 1860 the population was four thousand one hundred and twenty-two.




THE WESTERN STATES.                  283
IOWA.
Iowa formed, originally, part of the Louisiana purchase; afterwards it became a part of Missouri, then of Wisconsin, and lastly
of Iowa Territory. It was organized as a state, with governor
and legislature, in 1846.
The surface of Iowa is undulating and beautiful, with alternate forests and prairies. There is nothing within its limits
which approaches a mountain in elevation; but bold bluffs, with
picturesque ravines, line the rivers. A plateau, which enters
the northern part of the state from Minnesota, is the highest
elevation.  Table Mound, a conical elevation with a flat summit,
three or four miles from Dubuque, is about five hundred feet
high.
There are said to be some swamps in the north-western portion of the state. On Turkey river, in the northern part, there
are numerous sinks, or circular depressions in the surface of the
ground, some of them from ten to twenty feet across.  On the
same stream, within ten or fifteen miles of its mouth, are small
mounds, from three to six feet high, and sometimes ten or twelve
in a row. In Jackson county, there is a cave, several rods in
extent, from which flows a stream  large enough to turn a mill.
The state may be described as a rolling prairie, crossed by
rivers whose banks are skirted with wood.  The Mississippi and
Missouri form  its eastern and western boundary.  The other
important rivers are the Des Moines, Iowa, Red Cedar, and
their branches.  The Des Moines, the most important of these,
has its sources in Minnesota, and, traversing the entire state of
Iowa, forms, near its mouth, a small portion of the south-eastern
boundary. It is thought that it can be made navigable for
steamboats as fai as Fort Des Moines, a distance of about two
hundred miles, and the state government has recently undertaken
the work. Small steamboats can ascend the Iowa river three
months in the year, for about eighty miles from its mouth, as far
as Iowa City.  The Red Cedar is about three hundred miles in
length, and passes almost entirely across the state, furnishing
important water-power.




284               THE WESTERN STATES.
Iowa has not much direct foreign commerce, but trades extensively with the Atlantic and Gulf towns, and with the interior.
The soil is exceedingly fertile and the climate healthful. The
summers are warm, but the winters are quite severe. The rivers
are frozen over from two to three months, on an average, each
winter. Iowa, except along the rivers, is not well timbered.
Between the belts of timber bordering on the streams, there are
often prairies of from fifteen to twenty miles in extent, without
as much as a shrub or tree to break the monotony of their
surface.
DES MOINES,
The capital of the state, is situated at the junction of the
Des Moines and Raccoon rivers, one hundred and seventy-five
miles west of Davenport.
The other principal towns are Dubuque, Davenport, Keokuk,
Burlington and Iowa City.
DUBUQUE
Is situated on the right bank of the Mississippi, about four
hundred and fifty miles above St. Louis. Part of the city is
built on a terrace, which extends along the bank of the river
for several miles; the remainder is built upon a bluff, which
rises about two hundred feet higher.
DAVENPORT
Is situated on the Mississippi, about three hundred and thirty
miles above St. Louis.  Next to Dubuque and Burlington it is
the largest city of Iowa, and it is rapidly increasing in size. A
handsome draw-bridge connects it with the city of Rock Island,
on the opposite side of the river.
KEOKUK
Is situated on the Mississippi, two hundred and five miles
above St. Louis.  It stands on a basis of fine limestone, which
affords an excellent material for building.




THE WESTERN STATES.                285
BURLINGTON
Is situated on the Mississippi river, about two hundred and
fifty miles above St. Louis. It was at one time the capital of
Iowa, and it continues to grow rapidly, notwithstanding the
removal of the seat of government.  At the present time its
population is not equaled by any city in the state except Dubuque, which is about the same.
IOWA CITY
Was also at one time the capital of Iowa. It is situated on
the Iowa river, about eighty miles from its mouth. The river
at this point has excellent water-power, which is partially improved.
MICHIGAN.
The first settlements in Michigan were made by the French
in the latter part of the seventeenth century, at Detroit and
Mackinaw. In 1763, together with the other French possessions
in North America, it passed into the hands of Great Britain.
On the breaking out of the American revolution, it came into
the hands of the United States.  It was admitted into the union
in 1837.
The state is divided by Lakes Michigan and Huron, into two
irregular peninsulas. The northern peninsula is a wild and
rough region of mountains and forests, and containing about
two-fifths of the area of the state.  The southern is a level,
rich, fertile country of prairies and oak openings, and watered
by numerous rivers.. There is a striking contrast between the
two peninsulas, the lower being level and fertile, while the
upper is picturesque, rugged and sterile in soil. The climate is
mild in the southern, and cold and bleak in the northern regions.
The southern portion produces wheat, maize, butter, and cheese,
in great abundance. The northern part is rich in minerals.
Along the shores of Lake Superior are probably some of the
richest copper mines in the world. A mass of copper weighing
one hundred and fifty tons was uncovered in one of the mines




286                THE WESTERN STATES.
in 1854.  Silver is also found in considerable quantities in connection with the copper. In some instances the ore has yielded
as high as fifty per cent. of silver. Iron also abounds along the
shores of the same lake. (See views of the iron mines of Lake
Superior.) Large quantities of this mineral are shipped from
the town of Marquette, which owes its prosperity to the iron
mines worked in the vicinity.  Extensive ore docks are built
along the shore of the bay.  (See views of the bay of Marquette.)
Michigan is most favorably situated for internal trade, and
trade with British America.  It has a lake coast of over one
thousand miles. The coast is indented by a number of bays,
furnishing valuable harbors. The rivers are small and rapid in
their course, obstructed by frequent waterfalls, which oppose
navigation, but furnish valuable water power. The St. Joseph,
Kalamazoo, Grand and Muskegon, are navigable for vessels of
light draft from forty to fifty miles.
The towns of Michigan are remarkable for their rapid growth.
LANSING,
The capital, is situated on Grand river, one hundred and ten
miles north-west of Detroit.  When it was selected for the seat
of government in 1847, it was surrounded by an almost unbroken wilderness. It now contains a large and handsome state
house, twelve churches, two banks, a female college, an academy,
and a reform school. In 1860, the population was three thousand and seventy-four. The other important places are Detroit,
Grand Rapids, Adrian, Kalamazoo, Ann Arbor, Jackson and
Monroe.
DETROIT,
The largest city, is situated on the west bank of Detroit river,
eighteen miles from the head of Lake Erie. The city covers an
area of about ten miles, and stretches along the bank of the
river for about three miles. The city is regularly laid out, the
streets are wide, well paved, and ornamented with forest trees.
The city is supplied with pure lake water which is raised from
the river by steam power. The position of Detroit on the great




THE WESTERN STATES.                 287
chain of lakes, gives it great commercial advantages. Several
lines of large steamers are actively engaged in the copper and
iron trade. In 1805, Detroit was entirely destroyed by fire.
The city was then built up on an entirely different plan. It was
the capital of the state from the admission of Michigan into the
union in 1836, until 1850. The city contains a number of large
and handsome public buildings, and many elegant private residences. In 1865, the population was about sixty thousand.
GRAND RAPIDS
Is situated on Grand river, forty miles from its mouth. The
city takes its name from the rapids of the river at that place.
It is beautifully situated on both banks of the river, in an elevated position, commanding a fine view of the river and surrounding country. It is actively engaged in commerce and manufactures.  The city was laid out in 1833, and incorporated in 1850.
It now contains twelve churches, two banks, and several seminaries. The population is about eight thousand one hundred.
ADRIAN
Is situated on a branch of the Raisin river, seventy miles
south-west of Detroit.  It is actively engaged in commerce, and is
rapidly increasing in population. It has a number of large
public buildings, and several places of worship. The population
it about six thousand two hundred.
KALAMAZOO
Is situated on the left bank of Kalamazoo river, one hundred
and forty miles west of Detroit. It is actively engaged in trade.
The Michigan asylum for the insane is located here. It also
contains a United States land office, nine churches, and three
banks.  In 1860 the population was six thousand and seventy.
ANN ARBOR
Is situated on the Huron river, thirty-eight miles west of
Detroit. It contains a university, three colleges, eight churches,
three banks, and a large union school.  In 1864, the population was about eight thousand nine hundred.




288                THE WESTERN STATES.
JACKSON
Is situated on Grand river, seventy-six miles west of Detroit.
It contains the county buildings, five churches, one seminary
and the state penitentiary.  In 1860 the population was four
thousand nine hundred and seventy-nine.
MONROE
Is pleasantly situated on both sides of the Raisin river, two
miles from its entrance into Lake Erie and forty miles southwest of Detroit. The place was settled in 1776, but has mostly
been built since 1835. The population in 1860 was three thousand eight hundred and ninety-two.
WISCONSIN.
Wisconsin was settled in the latter part of the seventeenth
century. For some time the population did not increase very
rapidly, but within the last few years the rich soil, valuable
minerals, and beautiful scenery of the state have attracted a
large number of emigrants. It was admitted into the union in
1848.
The surface of Wisconsin is elevated, though it has no mountains. The climate is severe, the winters long, but almost entirely free from those sudden changes which occur in some of
the states further south.  The soil is fertile, and generally
adapted to farming and grazing, especially in the southern part
of the state.  The mineral resources of the state are not yet
fully developed. Considerable quantities of copper, iron and
lead are found.  The lead is frequently intermingled with copper, zinc, and silver.
The principal rivers of the state flow in a south-westerly direction, and empty into the Mississippi, which traverses the southwestern border of the state for about two hundred miles. The
other important rivers are the Wisconsin and the Chippewa.
The Wisconsin rises in the northern part of the state, flows in a
south-westerly direction, and empties into the Mississippi. It is
about two hundred miles in length, and navigable for about one




THE WESTERN STATES.                 289
hundred and eighty miles of this distance. The Chippewa rises
in the northern part of the state, flows in a south-westerly direction a distance of about two hundred miles, and discharges its
waters into the Mississippi.  The courses of the rivers are rapid,
furnishing valuable water power, but unfavorable to navigation.
They abound in rapids and falls. On the Wisconsin occur the
St. Croix, Chippewa, and Big Bull falls. On the banks of this
river are Pentenwell peak, and Pulpit rock. The former is an
oval mass of rock, nine hundred feet long, three hundred feet
wide, and elevated about two hundred feet above the surrounding country. The latter (see view,) is about one hundred feet
in hight. One side has a perpendicular descent, and the other
descends by a succession of terraces. About fifty miles below
St. Anthony's falls the Mississippi river expands into a lake,
some five miles in width and twenty-five miles in length. This
is called Lake Pepin, which means " the Lake of Tears." This
lake is noted for its beautiful scenery. On the east side is a
bold rock over four hundred feet high called Maiden rock. (See
view.)
This rock derived its name from an occurrence which took
place about fifty years ago. An Indian girl, of the Wapasha tribe, became very much attached to a young hunter. Her
parents, however, determined that she should marry a young
warrior who had signalized himself in battle against the Chippewas. Rather than submit to this, she ascended this rock, and,
with a loud voice commenced upbraiding her parents for their
cruel conduct.  They promised to relinquish all compulsory
measures, but, regardless of their entreaties, she threw herself
from the rock, and fell a lifeless corpse at their feet.
In the northern part of the state are a number of small lakes,
remarkable for their beautiful scenery. Scattered throughout
the state are mounds or earth works, which are evidently the
work of a race who occupied the country previous to the people found by the Europeans on their arrival here. The cities of
Wisconsin are growing rapidly, and new ones are constantly
springing up.                                   19




290               THE WESTERN STATES.
MADISON,
The capital, is pleasantly situated in the center of a broad
valley, on an isthmus between Lakes Mendota and Monona.
The situation is remarkably beautiful, and it is much frequented
by pleasure seekers as a summer resort. Since its origin the
place has steadily and rapidly increased in population. When
it was selected in 1836 for the seat of government, it contained
but one house, and that was built of logs. It now contains a
handsome capitol, a university, twelve churches, four banks and
eighty stores. In 1865 the population was about ten thousand.
The other important places are Milwaukee, Racine, and
Janesville.
MILWAUKEE,
The largest city, is situated on the western shore of Lake
Michigan, at the mouth of Milwaukee river, seventy-five miles
east of Madison. It is pleasantly situated on both sides of the
river, and the general appearance of the place is very pleasing,
on account of the large number of buildings made from the brick
manufactured at that place. These bricks are of a light cream
color. Large quantities of them are shipped to other parts of
the United States. Milwaukee is remarkable for its rapid growth.
The extensive water power of the Milwaukee river is an important element in the prosperity of the place. The town was settled in 1835, and incorporated as a city in 1846. It contains
forty-three churches, eleven public schools, one female college,
several academies, eight banks, three orphan asylums and two
hospitals. In 1863 the population was about sixty-five thousand.
RACINE
Is beautifully situated on an elevated plain on the western
shore of Lake Michigan, at the mouth of Root river, twenty-five
miles south-east of Milwaukee. The city is regularly laid out,
with wide streets, and contains a number of handsome public
buildings and elegant private residences. Racine contains sixteen churches, one college, six public schools and two banks.
It was settled in 1835, and incorporated in 1848. In 1865 the
population was about ten thousand.




THE WESTERN STATES.                 291
JANESVILLE
Is pleasantly situated on both sides of Rock river. It was
settled in 1836, and incorporated in 1853. It contains a court
house, nine churches, two banks, a high school, a female seminary, and the state institution for the blind. In 1860 the population' was seven thousand seven hundred and three.
MINNESOTA.
Minnesota was first visited by white men in the year 1654.
The first permanent settlement was made in 1811. The present
state formed a part of the original Louisiana territory as purchased from France in 1803.  It became a territory in 1847,
and was admitted into the union in 1853.
The surface of the state is generally uniform. It contains no
mountains, but is the most elevated tract of land between the
Gulf of Mexico and Hudson's bay.  There are a few elevations above the general average, called mounds; but, with these
exceptions, the surface is marked only by ravines running from
the general level down to the beds of the streams. It is neither
mountainous, hilly, or level, but a beautiful arrangement of upland and lowland plains. The climate is severe but remarkably
uniform, sudden changes rarely occurring, so that there is far
less suffering from cold than in the changeable weather of the
winters further south.
The soil on the river bottoms is very fertile. In the northern
part of the state the country is generally covered with drift, interspersed with marshes, too wet for cultivation. The climate is
well adapted to the culture of wheat, barley, oats, and potatoes.
Indian corn thrives as well as in northern New York or New
England.  Wild rice, strawberries, currants, plums, cranberries and grapes are found in great abundance.
Minnesota is one of the best watered states in the union. It
abounds in beautiful lakes of almost every size. The largest of
these lakes, with the exception of Lake Superior, are the Lake
of the Woods, Rainy Lake, Red Lake, Lake Cass, Leech Lake,
and Mille Lac, or Spirit Lake. Lake Pepin and White Bear




292                THE WESTERN STATES.
lake (see views,) are noted for their beautiful scenery. - The
rivers of Minnesota abound in falls and rapids, which obstruct
navigation, but afford valuable water power. St. Anthony Falls,
on the Mississippi, have a perpendicular descent of sixteen and
one half feet.  These falls are celebrated, not so much for their
hight, as for the wild and romantic scenery in the vicinity.
(See views of the Falls of St. Anthony.)  Near the Falls of St.
Anthony is the beautiful cascade of Minnehaha.  This is one of
the small perfect works of nature, possessing all the greater
charm, because it is not grand and overpowering, but simply
beautiful. It has a perpendicular descent of about forty-five
feet. As seen from beneath there is but a small portion of the
sky visible, against which the fall seems projected, as though the
waters were falling from some summer cloud. The precipice
below the verge arches over, leaving a space wide enough for a
foot path between it and the falls.  (See views of Minnehaha.)
The principal rivers are the Mississippi, Minnesota, Red river
of the North, St. Louis, and St. Croix. The scenery along the
Mississippi is very beautiful.  Near the confluence of the Mississippi and St. Peter's rivers there is an elevation two hundred
and sixty-two feet in hight, called Pilot Knob, and another at
Red Wing, three hundred feet in hight, called Barn Bluff.
(See views.) Two or three miles above St. Paul there is an excavation in the white sand stone called Fountain cave.  This
opens by an arched passage into a chamber one hundred and
fifty feet long and twenty wide, along the center of which runs
a small stream. (See views of Fountain cave.) The scenery at
St. Cloud and Fort Snelling is remarkably beautiful. (See
views.) About thirty miles from the mouth of the St. Croix
river there are some rapids which have a descent of about fifty
feet in about three hundred yards. About half a mile below the
rapids the river has forced its way through a perpendicular wall
of trap rock, through which it rushes with great velocity. This
pass is called the Dalles of the St. Croix.  (See views.)
ST. PAUL,
The capital of the state, is situated on a bluff seventy or eighty
feet high, on the left bank of the Mississippi river, eight miles




THE WESTERN STATES.                   293
below the Falls of St. Anthony.  It is a place of active business,
and is growing very rapidly.  It was settled in 1840.  The population in 1860 was ten thousand four hundred.
The other important places are St. Anthony, Minneapolis,
Stillwater, Winona, and Hastings.
CALIFORNIA.
California was discovered in 1548, by Cabrillo, a Spanish
navigator. In 1758, Sir Francis Drake visited its northern
coast, and named the country New Albion.  The original settlements in California were mission establishments, founded by
Catholic priests for the conversion of the natives.  The policy
of these priests, who held absolute sway in California until 1833,
was to discourage emigration.  In the year 1840 the number
of free whites and half breed inhabitants lnumbered less than six
thousand.  The emigration from  the United States first commenced in 1838; this so increased from year to year that in
1846, Colonel Fremont had but little difficulty in calling to his
aid some five hundred fighting men.
Geographically considered, the position of California is one of
the best in the world, lying, as it does, on the Pacific, fronting
Asia.  It is about seven hundred and fity miles long with an
average breadth of about two hundred miles, giving an area of
one hundred and fifty thousand square miles.  Its great length,
together with its diversity of surface, gives it a greater variation
of climate and productions than any other state in the union.
The Colorado desert lies in the south-eastern part of the state,
and is seventy miles wide by one hundred and forty long.  It is
a low, barren, dry, cheerless region.  Part of it is seventy feet
below the level of the sea, and, in times of very high water, the
Colorado river frequently overflows its banks, and a large stream
runs down into this basin and mnakes a aLake.  North of the Colorado desert lies the l~ohave basii, which has no outlet.  All
its streams terminate in salt lakes, most of which dry up in summer.  All these lakes are so strong with alkaline salts that no
fish can live in the water, and one of them  is so strong that it
scalds the human cuticle.. Most of the basin is four thousand




294                THE WESTERN STATES.
feet above the level of the sea, but one portion, called Death
valley, is three hundred and seventy-five feet below.
Sierra Nevada stretches along the coast, at the general distance of one hundred and fifty miles from it. This great mountain wall receives the warm winds, charged with vapor, which
sweep across the Pacific ocean, precipitates their accumulated
moisture in fertilizing rains and snows upon its western flank,
and leaves cold and dry winds to pass on to the east. The
region east of the mountains is comparatively barren and cold.
West of the Sierra Nevada is the inhabitable part of California.  North and south, this region extends through about ten
degrees of latitude, from Oregon to the peninsula of California.
East and west it averages, in the middle part, one hundred and
fifty, and in the northern part, two hundred miles, giving an
area of about one hundred thousand square miles.  Side ranges,
parallel to the Sierra and the coast, make the structure of the
rest of California, and break it into a surface of valleys and
mountains-the valleys a few hundred, and the mountains two
or three thousand feet above the sea.
The climate of California is mild. Snow never falls except
in mountain regions. About one-third of all the land is susceptible of cultivation, and the soil is generally fertile, though not
equal to the Mississippi valley.  Where rain is abundant large
crops are produced. Barley is cultivated to a greater extent
than in any other state in the union. Fruit trees grow rapidly,
and commence to bear when very young.  The climate is peculiarly favorable for the cultivation of the grape. The vineyards
of the state cover upwards of ten thousand acres.  A single
bunch of grapes has been known to weigh seventeen pounds.
The vegetables are remarkable for their great size. At one of
the agricultural fairs there was exhibited a cabbage weighing fiftythree pounds, a squash two hundred and sixty pounds, an onion
forty-seven pounds, a turnip twenty-six pounds, a watermelon
sixty-five pounds, a carrot ten pounds, and a beet one hundred
and eighteen pounds, five feet long by one foot in diameter.
There are dense forests on the Sierra Nevada and on the coast
north of the Golden Gate.  The forests of the low land of the




THE WESTERN STATES.                295
Sacramento, the coast mountains south of thirty-seven degrees,
the Colorado desert, and the Mohave basin are limited to some
scattering groves of oak in the valleys and along the borders of
the streams, and of red wood on the ridges and in the gorges of
the hills, sometimes extending into the plains. The largest trees
in the state are the Sequoia Gigantea or mammoth trees.  These
trees are found in the Sierra Nevada at an elevation of four
thousand feet. Already twenty groves have been discovered in
California. The Mariposa is the largest and finest, though the
Calaveras, fifty miles to the northward, is better known. This
grove contains ten trees thirty feet in diameter, eighty-two
between fifteen and thirty, and a number of smaller ones. Nearly
all of them are over two hundred and fifty feet high, and several
of them three hundred. One of them was cut down by boring
with augers and sawing the spaces between. The work employed
five men for twenty-five days. When fully cut off the tree stubbornly continued to stand, only yielding at last to a mammoth
wedge and a powerful battering-ram.  Of the trees in the Mariposa grove, two hundred are more than twelve feet in diameter,
fifty more than sixteen feet and six more than thirty- feet. The
largest, called the " Prostrate Monarch," is now lying upon the
ground, leafless and branchless. It is believed to have fallen
fully one hundred and fifty years ago. Part of the trunk has
been consumed by fire, though enough of it remains to show that
with the bark on it must have been at least forty feet in diameter. The largest of the trees are between three and four hundred feet high. The tops of many of the large trees have been
broken off, leaving their average hight about two hundred and
fifty feet. In one of the trees, there is a cavity about half the
thickness of the trunk, which is large enough to admit fifteen
persons on horseback, without crowding in the least. Through
another, lying on the ground, a cavity has been burned, large
enough to permit a man to ride through its entire length. The
largest standing tree is the Grizzly Grant. If it was cut off
smoothly, fifty horses could easily stand upon the stump. If
the trunk were hollowed to a shell, it would hold more freight
than a man-of-war or a first class ocean steamer two hundred




296               THE WESTERN STATES.
and fifty feet long. (See views of mammoth trees in Mariposa
and Calaveras groves.) The redwood pines which are scattered
among these trees would elsewhere be considered kings of the
forests, but among these hoary giants they dwarf into small
shrubs. They are scattered over an area of about twelve hundred and eighty acres. Many of them are two hundred feet
in hight.
The chief mineral is gold, and California is the chief gold producing country in the world. On the 19th of January, 1848,
the gold mines of the Sierra Nevada were discovered by an
American gentleman, James N. Marshall, and in about three
months upwards of four thousand people were working them.
Further explorations showed that these deposits of gold extended
over a vast extent of country. The discovery of gold at once
changed the character of California. Its people, before engaged
in cultivating small patches of ground, and guarding their herds
of cattle and horses, flocked to the mines. The laborers left
their work, the tradesmen their shops, the soldiers deserted from
the forts, and the sailors ran away from their ships. The mines
astonished the world by the vast amount of their production.
Information of the discovery spread rapidly, and in fifteen
months after their discovery one hundred thousand people had
started for the new El Dorado. Lower California was forgotten;
the only California before the eyes of the world was the new
land of gold, which thus usurped the name which once belonged
exclusively to the peninsula.
The principal gold region of California is about five hundred
miles long, and from forty to fifty miles broad, following the
line of the Sierra Nevada. (See views of California mining.)
There are numerous streams which have their sources in the
springs of the Sierra, and receive the waters from its melting
snows and that which falls in rain during the wet season.  These
rivers in forming their channels, or breaking their way through
the hills, have come in contact with the quartz containing the
gold veins, and by constant attrition cut the gold into fine flakes
and dust, and it is found among the sand and gravel of their
beds at those places where the swiftness of the current reduces




THE WESTERN STATES.                  297
it, in the dry season, to the narrowest possible limits, and where
a wide margin is consequently left on each side, over which the
water rushes during the wet season with great force. (See
views of Yuba river.)
Perhaps no state in the union is as remarkable for the combination of loveliness with sublimity, as California. Its natural
scenery is unsurpassed by thai of any other part of th6 world.
The Geysers, in Lake county, a cluster of hot, steaming springs,
and Lake Tahoe, or Bigler, near the summit of the Sierra Nevada, are fashionable watering places.  The rivers have frequently cut for themselves beds, or canons, in the solid rock,
narrow and deep, with the banks rising perpendicularly on either
side.  (See views of canons.)  Lieutenant Ives' statements
respecting the gorges upon the Colorado river are almost incredible, and are certainly without a parallel.  At the head of
navigation the deep and narrow current of the river flows between
massive walls of rock, which rise sheer from the water for over
a thousand feet, seeming almost to meet in the dizzy hight above.
The sun rarely penetrates the depths of this " Black Canon,"
which is about twenty-five miles in length. Incomparably the
grandest feature of California is the Yosemite valley. Unless
the unexplored Himalayas hide some rival, there is no spot, the
wide world over, of such varied beauty and measureless grandeur.  The valley is from  eight to ten miles long, and a little
more than a mile wide, with steep, rocky sides, in some places
four thousand feet high.  Through this valley runs the Merced
river. This river is about forty yards wide. Its waters are almost
perfectly transparent. In the valley are five great cascades, the
highest of which is the Yosemite. This is the loftiest waterfall
in the world. It leaps one thousand six hundred feet at one
fall, then it has four hundred and thirty-four feet of rapids and
a second fall of six hundred feet, making in all a clescent of two
thousand six hundred and thirty-four feet.  Next to the Yosemite is Bridal Veil fall, which is nine hundred and forty feet
in hight.  It is unbroken and much narrower than the Yosemite. Before reaching the end of its long descent it is completely transformed to spray. Its name is peculiarly fitting.  It




298                THE WESTERN STATES.
indeed looks like a veil of white lace, and, softened as it is by a
delicate mist, notwithstanding its great hight, it strikes the beholder not so much with a feeling of awe, as with admiration of
its own beauty.  Nevada Fall is six hundred feet in hight. Its
waters are always white as a snow drift.  Its volume is much
greater, still it is not lacking in the misty softness, which forms
the principal beauty of BridalVeil. South Fork Fall, six hundred feet high, is very difficult of access, and is seldom visited by
travelers. Vernal Fall is on the middle or main fork of Vernal river. In spring each fall has twenty times as much water
as in summer, and they are much more impressive and beautiful
than later in the season. The view from the top of Vernal Fall
is particularly impressive.  In the distance, across the gorge,
snow-streaked mountains loom up before the eye, while beneath
is the valley, shut in by measureless inclosing walls, and fringed
with groves of pines and spreading oaks.
The rock mountains are the principal feature of the Yosemite.
Their dimensions are so vast as almost to exceed comprehension.
South Dome is really a semi-dome.  It is four thousand nine
hundred and sixty-seven feet in hight. When we speak of a
rock thirty feet in hight, it conveys some definite impression,
but to tell of one four thousand feet high, only bewilders the
mind. North Dome is three thousand seven hundred and twenty-nine feet in hight.  Both these rocks are covered with vegetation.  Hardy cedars, apparently growing out of the solid
rock, have braved for a thousand years the war of elements.
One large rock is named in honor of Thomas Starr King.  The
grandest of all the rocks is Tutoconuula. This rock is three
thousand and twenty-nine feet in hight, with a smooth, seamless
wall, entirely destitute of vegetation. Its surface is so smooth
that it is impossible for a vine to fasten its tendrils upon its
polished, weather-beaten wall.  Mirror Lake is on the north
fork of Merced river. The water is very transparent, reflecting
the objects above so perfectly as almost to resemble an inverted
dome of blue sky, dotted with mountains, rocks and trees. The
United States authorities have taken measures to preserve the
Yosemite valley and the Mariposa groves, as pleasure grounds




THE WESTERN STATES.                299
for the people of the United States. They are set apart from
the general public domain as a national park, and are under the
care of a commissioner appointed by the governor of California,
for their preservation and protection.
SACRAMENTO CITY
Is the capital of the state. It is situated on the left bank of
Sacramento river, one hundred and twenty miles north-east of
San Francisco. The river is navigable for steamers for some
distance above the place, at all seasons of the year, giving it
great commercial advantages. It was founded in 1849, and in
1865 the population was about eighteen thousand. (See views
of Sacramento.)
SAN FRANCISCO,
The principal city, is situated on San Francisco bay, six miles
south of the Golden Gate. It is regularly laid out, and contains many handsome buildings.  There are within the city
forty-six churches, twenty banks, a custom-house, a branch mint,
a marine hospital, a number of public schools, a state normal
school, and seventy-five private schools, besides a number of
benevolent institutions. It is actively engaged in commerce, for
which it has great natural advantages. The population is rapidly
increasing; in 1865 it was about ninety thousand. (See views
of San Francisco, harbor and bay.)
OREGON.
Oregon was first visited by the whites in 1775. From this
time until 1804 the coast was occasionally visited by fur traders.
In the year 1792, Captain Robert Gray, of the ship Columbia,
of Boston, discovered and entered the Columbia river. In 1808
the Missouri fur company established a trading post on Lewis
river, a branch of the Columbia, which was the first white settlement in the state. Emigration from the United States did
not begin to any great extent until 1839. It was organized as
a territory in 1848, and admitted into the union in 1859.




300                THE WESTERN STATES.
The state is divided into three natural sections; the lower or
that portion next the ocean, the middle, or that part which lies
between the Cascade range and the Blue mountains, and the
upper, or that portion which lies between the Blue and Rocky
mountains.
Oregon has a milder climate than that of the same latitude on
the Atlantic coast. The climate of the coast region is mild
throughout the year, neither experiencing the extreme cold of
winter or the heat of summer. In the middle region the summers are drier and the winters colder than in the lower region,
but free from sudden changes from heat to cold. The upper
country is variable and colder than either of the others. The
soil in the upper region is sterile and unfitted for agricultural
operations. The central portion affords in many places excellent pasturage, though it is not in many places susceptible of
cultivation, but that of the coast region is unsurpassed in fertility. Indian corn, wheat, barley, oats and turnips are the principal productions.
The principal river is the Columbia, which is the largest river
on the Pacific slope of the continent. Its length, including that
of its longest affluent, is about one thousand two hundred miles.
It is navigable as far as the Cascades. Above this point the
navigation is obstructed. The scenery along the river is remarkably beautiful. At the point where it breaks through the Cascade range, the channel narrows to one hundred and fifty yards.
The river rushes through the narrow opening with great violence,
and descends forty feet in two miles. At the dalles the channel
again narrows for half a mile to one hundred yards, and descends
fifty feet in two miles.
SALEM,
The capital of the state, is situated on the east bank of the
Willamette river, fifty miles above Oregon City.  The river is
navigable to this point during high water for about nine months
of the year. The city is growing rapidly. In 1865 the population was about two thousand five hundred. The other important towns are Portland, Oregon City, Salem, Albany, Corvallis, and Eugene City.




THE WESTERN STATES.                 301
KANSAS.
This state was purchased from France in 1803, under what
is called the Louisiana purchase. It was organized as a separate territory in 1854, and admitted into the union in 1861.
The surface of the state is gently undulating with no mountains or other high elevations. The climate is mild; the winters
are very short. The days in summer are quite warm, but are
always succeeded by cool and pleasant evenings. The soil is
very fertile, equal to if not surpassing that of any other state
in the union. The principal productions are corn, wheat, rye,
oats, tobacco, buckwheat, potatoes, cotton and hemp.  The
principal rivers are the Missouri, which forms the north-eastern
boundary of the state for some distance, the Kansas and Arkansas. The Kansas is formed by the union of the Republican and
Smoky Hill Forks.  The length of the main branch is about
one hundred and twenty miles. The navigation is obstructed
by sand-bars. The Arkansas flows through the south-eastern
part of the state for some distance.  The navigation is obstructed
by rapids. The principal tributaries from the state, are the
Walnut, Neosho, Verdigris, and Little Arkansas.
TOPEKA,
The capital, is pleasantly situated on the southern bank of
the Kansas river, about fifty miles south-west of Leavenworth.
It is regularly laid out, with wide streets, and is being rapidly
and neatly built up. The population is about seven hundred
and fifty.
The other important places are Leavenworth, Atchison and
Lawrence.
LEAVENWORTH,
The largest city, is beautifully situated on the right bank of
the Missouri, in the midst of a fine agricultural region. Steamboats navigate the river from this place to St. Louis. The city
contains sixteen churches, seven banks, four academies, seven
public schools, and one medical college. The population is rapidly increasing. In 1855, it numbered about one thousand, and
in 1865, it was nearly eighteen thousand.




302                THE WESTERN STATES.
ATCHISON
Is situated on the right bank of the Missouri river, about
twenty-five miles above Leavenworth. In 1865, the population
was about three thousand five hundred.
LAWRENCE
Is situated on the right bank of the Kansas river.  The city
was founded in 1854. In 1863, the town was burned by the
rebels under Quantrell, and about one hundred and fifty of the
inhabitants killed. It has since been rapidly rebuilt. The population is now about one thousand six hundred.
NEBRASKA.
Nebraska originally formed a part of the Louisiana purchase.
It became a separate territory in 1854. In 1861 its limits were
greatly reduced by the formation of the territory of Dakota.
It was admitted into the union in 1867.
The surface of the state, from the Missouri westward, is a
rolling prairie, but little diversified in its aspect, except by the
intersection of its streams. The soil for about one hundred
miles west of the Missouri river resembles that of Iowa and Missouri. In the western part of the state is an extensive tract
known as "' bad lands." This consists of a rolling prairie, so
largely intermixed with sand as to be almost unfit for ordinary
agricultural purposes. The prairies, however, are covered with
rich grass, which affords excellent pasturage. The principal
productions of the state are corn, wheat, oats, hay, butter, and
potatoes.
The climate is milder than that of the eastern states in the
same latitude. The summers are very warm, but are generally
relieved by cool winds from the prairies.
The principal rivers are the Missouri, Niobrara, and Nebraska.
The Missouri forms its entire eastern boundary. The Niobrara
crosses the north-western part of the state and empties into the




THE WESTERN STATES.                303
Missouri. The Nebraska is formed by the union of the North
and South fork. Its length, including North fork is about one
thousand two hundred miles.
OMAHA,
The capital, is pleasantly situated on the west bank of the
Missouri, opposite Council Bluffs. The city contains a court
house, ten churches, a female seminary and a number of other
schools.  The name of Omaha was derived from a tribe of Indians. It is a thriving town, and growing rapidly. In 1860
the population was about one thousand eight hundred, and in
1865 about four thousand five hundred.  (See views of Omaha.)
The other important places are Nebraska City and Brownsville.
The population of Nebraska City is about one thousand nine
hundred.  That of Brownsville, in 1860, was four hundred and
twenty-five.
NEVADA.
Nevada was formerly comprised in the territory of Utah. It
was organized as a territory in 1861, and admitted into the
union in 1864.
The surface of Nevada consists of a succession of mountain
ranges, with intervening valleys, and sandy plains. The soil is
generally sterile, and a large portion of it is not capable of
supporting a population. The climate is dry, and in many
respects resembles that of Utah. It is rich is mineral resources.
In Story'county there are some silver mines said to be the richest in the world. Gold, silver, copper, lead, and iron, are also
abundant.
It has no large streams. The only ones deserving of notice,
are Humboldt, Walker, and Carson rivers. The lakes are small,
and many of them have no outlet. Pyramid lake in the western
part of the state, is inclosed by precipitous rocks which rise to
a great hight. It derives its name from a rock shaped like a
pyramid, about six hundred feet in hight.




304              THE WESTERN STATES.
CARSON CITY,
The capital, is situated at the eastern base of the Sierra
Nevada, about four miles west of Carson river. In 1864, the
silver mines at this place yielded upwards of one million dollars.
In 1865, the population was about two thousand five hundred.
The other important places are Nevada City and Gold Hill.
The population of Nevada City is about three thousand six
hundred. That of Gold Hill in 1860, was six hundred and
thirty-eight.




CHAPTER V.
TERRITORIES.
The territories of the United States are ten in number, viz:
Washington, Idaho, Montana, Dakota, Wyoming, Utah, Colorado, Arizona, New Mexico, and Indian territory; the greater
number of which are traversed by the Rocky mountain system,
commencing in New Mexico, extending in a north-west direction
across the North American continent, and terminating near the
mouth of the Mackenzie river. The name Rocky mountains is,
however, applied to only that part of the system within the
United States. To this system belong the Sierra Madre, Wasutch, Bitter Root, Black Hills, and others. The great breadth
of the base, and the gentle acclivity render the Rocky mountains more easily traversed than any others of the same altitude.
The Union Pacific railroad crosses them at Bear mountain summit, eight thousand seven hundred and ninety feet above the
level of the sea.
WASHINGTON
Is bounded on the north by British America, on the east by
Idaho, on the south by Oregon, and on the west by the Pacific
ocean. This territory was separated from Oregon by an act of
Congress in 1853. A large portion of the surface is mountainous, and abounds in romantic scenery. Washington has a great
coal trade, and gold has been found on the Columbia river, and
on the east side of the Cascade mountains. The eastern and
central portions are peopled by various Indian tribes. The white
inhabitants live west of the Cascade range. Olympia, the capital, is on Shute's river, at its entrance into Puget sound. Steilacoom is one of the most important places.
20




306                   TERRITORIES.
IDAHO
Was organized in 1863. It is bounded on the north by British America and Montana, on the east by Montana and Wyoming, on the south by Utah and Nevada, and on the west by
Oregon and Washington.
The surface is rugged and mountainous; the scenery picturesque and grand. In this territory is Fremont's peak, the
highest of the Rocky mountains in the United States, having
an altitude of thirteen thousand five hundred and ten feet.
Gold and silver, the chief minerals, are found in large quantities, and mining is actively engaged in.
Boise City, on the Boise or Big Wood river, is the capital.
MONTANA
Formed a part of Idaho until 1864, when it was organized as
a territory. It is bounded on the north by British America, on
the east by Dakota, on the south by Wyoming and Idaho, and
on the west by Idaho.
The surface is rugged, mountainous, and in some places shows
signs of volcanic action. Silver and iron exist in large quantities, and gold has been found to some extent.
The Missouri river has its source in Montana. In the northeastern part of this territory is Fort Union, on the proposed northern railroad route to the Pacific. Montana was organized as a
territory in 1863.
The principal towns are Virginia City, the capital, Bannock
City, Laburge City, Gallatin City, and Nevada.
DAKOTA,
The largest territory, was organized in 1861. It is bounded
on the north by British America, on the east by Minnesota and
Iowa, on the south by Nebraska, and on the west by Montana
and Wyoming.
This territory presents every variety of surface, elevated table
lands, rugged hills, plains, and sand hills. The Missouri river




TERRITORIES.                   307
traverses nearly the entire length of this territory.  On it are
built several United States forts, among which are Forts Berthold, Clark, Sully, and others.
Yanktown is the capital, and Pembina the oldest city. (See
views in Dakota.)
WYOMING,
The latest organized territory, is bounded on the north by
Montana, on the east by Dakota and Nebraska, on the south
by Colorado and Utah, and on the west by Utah, Idaho and
Montana.
Through the central part of this territory passes a ridge of
the Rocky mountains. In the south-eastern part occur the Black
hills, the principal of which are Laramie peak and Mount Pisgah.
South-west of this range of hills, and between them and the
Rocky mountains, are the Laramie plains, on which are found
huge red sandstone rocks. This territory formerly belonged to
Dakota, from which it has recently been separated.
UTAH
Is bounded on the north by Idaho and Wyoming, on the east
by Wyoming and Colorado, on the south by Arizona, and on
the west by Nevada.
It was originally a part of California territory, ceded to the
United States by Mexico in 1848. It became a separate territory in 1850. The general surface is mountainous, and the
most barren and sterile region in the United States. Some of
the villages are six thousand feet above the level of the sea.
The climate in summer is hot and in winter mild, but subject to
sudden changes. Great Salt Lake, in this territory, is the most
remarkable body of water in the United States. This lake is
in the northern part of the territory, about four thousand two
hundred feet above the level of the sea, and so bitterly salt that
no live animal can exist in it. It has no visible outlet, but four




308                   TERRITORIES.
rivers empty into it, one of which is the river Jordan, connecting it with Utah Lake. The water of Salt Lake is so buoyant
that one finds difficulty in wading in it, floats with ease, and
would be in no danger of drowning, except by strangling.
Three gallons of water produce one gallon of pure salt; and,
during hot weather, the shores of the lake are covered with a
thick incrustation of salt, caused by solar evaporation.  The
lake is one hundred and twenty miles long and forty miles broad.
Utah Lake is about thirty miles from Great Salt Lake. It is
a clear, fresh body of water, twenty miles wide and thirty-five
miles long.
SALT LAKE CITY,
The capital of Utah, is about twenty miles from Great Salt
Lake, and is situated near the Jordan river. The city was laid
out by the Mormons in 1847, contains about twenty thousand
inhabitants, and publishes three daily and one weekly papers.
Camp Douglas, a garrisoned post of the United States army,
restrains the despotic power of the Mormon church, affords
shelter to all those who abandon that faith, and sends them to
the states under military escort. Brigham Young, the president
of the Mormon church, is popular among the " saints," and
rules them with ease. His dwellings, the Lion House and the
Bee-hive House, are in the heart of the city, surrounded by a
wall eleven feet high, built of bowlders laid in mortar. In the
city are four public squares, in one of which a magnificent temple is being erected. (See views of Salt Lake City.)
COLORADO,
Organized in 1861, is bounded on the north by Wyoming and
Nebraska, on the east by Nebraska and Kansas, on the south
by Indian Territory and New Mexico, and on the west by Utah.
The general surface is mountainous.  Within this territory
are some of the highest peaks of the Rocky mountains, the
most noted of which are Long's Peak and Pike's Peak.  The




TERRITORIES.                   309
latter has an altitude of eleven thousand four hundred and ninety-seven feet. It was at this peak that gold was first discovered
in Colorado.
The principal rivers are Arkansas, south fork of the Platte,
Yampa, Bear, Bunkara and Gunnison. Big Thompson creek
is in the northern part of the territory.
DENVER,
The capital, the most populous and principal commercial city
of Colorado, is pleasantly located at the foot of the mountains,
on the south fork of the Platte. Among the public buildings
are the Colorado seminary, costing twenty thousand dollars;
five churches, one of which cost twenty-four thousand dollars;
a Catholic academy, and a United States branch mint, costing
seventy-five thousand dollars.
ARIZONA
Is bounded on the north by Utah, on the east by New Mexico, on the south by Mexico, and on the west by California and
Nevada.
It formerly belonged to New Mexico, and was made a separate
territory in 1863.  Its general surface is mountainous, and
great portions are supposed to be of volcanic origin. This territory abounds in extensive treeless plains, or prairies.
Arizona is rich in gold and silver mines, which are found in
almost every part of the territory.  The capital is Prescott.
The chief towns are Tucson and Tubac.
NEW MEXICO
Is bounded on the north by Colorado, on the east by Indian
Territory and Texas, on the south by Texas and Mexico, and
on the west by Arizona.
This territory is, for the most part, an elevated table-land,
traversed by several mountain ranges. The greater portion of
the inhabitants are Indians. It is probable that this territory
abounds in precious metals, but the mines have not yet been
worked very extensively, and the future may reveal vast treasures of gold, silver and other metals.




310                   TERRITORIES.
SANTA FE,
The capital, has a population of four thousand six hundred
and thirty-eight.  The other principal settlements are Albuquerque and Socorre.
INDIAN TERRITORY.
This territory is bounded on the north by Colorado and Kansas, on the east by Missouri and Arkansas, on the south by
Texas, and on the west by Texas and New Mexico.
This territory was set apart by the United States as a permanent home for the Indians. The soil is fertile, productive, and
well adapted to grazing. Some of the tribes which people this
territory are advanced in civilization.  Others are indolent,
degraded, and are rapidly diminishing under the influence of
intemperance.
Tahlequah, a Cherokee town, is the principal place of this
territory.
The Union Pacific railroad is now completed, forming an easy
mode of communication between the states and territories, and
there is a prospect that they will now be more rapidly settled.
The railroad passes through Nebraska, Wyoming, Utah, Nevada,
touches Colorado, and terminates at Sacramento, California.
RUSSIAN AMERICA
Was-purchased by the United States in 1867. Its area is
nearly ten times as great as that of Pennsylvania. It is bounded
on the north by the Arctic ocean, on the east by British America, on the south by the Pacific ocean, and on the west by Behring's sea, Behring's strait, and Arctic ocean.
The inhabitants are chiefly Esquimaux, living in huts partly
under ground. They are a filthy and degraded race. There
are, beside these, about six thousand Russians engaged in trapping and fishing.
South of the peninsula of Alaska the coast is mountainous,
abounding in precipitous cliffs, descending abruptly to the sea.




TERRITORIES.                   311
North of this peninsula it is low and marshy. Along the coast
are groups of volcanic islands, between which and the main land
is a remarkable interior channel, safe for navigation at all times.
The climate is not as cold as it is in the same latitude on the
eastern coasts of the American and Asiatic continents. Sitka,
or New Archangel, the principal settlement, is on Baranoff
island.




CHAPTER VI.
GEOGRAPHICAL HISTORY OF BRITISH AMERICA.
British America comprises Canada East, Canada West, New
Brunswick, Nova Scotia, Cape Breton, Prince Edward's Island,
Newfoundland, North-west Territory, and Hudson's Bay Territory.
The surface is generally level.  The Alleghany mountain
system extends into Canada, and terminates in low hills on the
Gulf of St. Lawrence. A chain of hills called the Wotchish
mountains, separates the basin of the St. Lawrence from that
of Hudson's Bay. With these exceptions, it has few elevations
of any considerable hight.
The climate is subject to great extremes. The summers are
very warm, and the winters long and cold. The heat of summer, and the cold of winter is much greater than in the same
latitude in Europe. In that portion bordering on the great lakes,
the winters are not so cold and the heat of summer is less
intense.
The Province of Canada is heavily timbered. In the southeastern portion of this province, the soil is very fertile, and
produces large crops of wheat and other grains; but near the
mouth of the St. Lawrence, the climate is too severe and the
soil too poor to admit cultivation.
The principal rivers are the St. Lawrence and Ottawa. The
St. Lawrence, one of the largest rivers of North America, forms
the outlet to the great lakes. It is about seven hundred and
fifty miles in length, and navigable as far as Montreal for vessels
of six hundred tons.  Above this point, the navigation is
obstructed by rapids. The Ottawa, with a volume of water
almost equal to the St. Lawrence, enters this river about forty




BRITISH AMERICA.                  313
miles west of Montreal.  It is about eight hundred miles in
length. Its navigation is obstructed by rapids and cataracts.
It abounds in beautiful scenery, and its banks are covered with
valuable timber.
Canada shares with New York in the grand and beautiful
scenery of Niagara Falls. The basin of the St. Lawrence is
famous for the grandeur of its natural scenery. Besides Niagara, it contains the Falls of Montmorenci, seven miles from
Quebec, with a perpendicular descent of two hundred and forty
feet; the Falls of Chaudiere, ten miles from Quebec, rushing
and foaming over a wild chasm one hundred and twenty-five feet
in perpendicular descent; the Carrillon Falls of the Ottawa, a
series of rapids twelve miles in length, and the romantic scenery
of the Saguenay river. The banks of this river, varying in hight
from five hundred to one thousand five hundred feet, are in many
places perpendicular, while in other places they absolutely overhang the river. The water is very deep. Near its mouth a line
of three thousand feet failed to reach the bottom. In other
places, its depths varies from one hundred to one thousand feet.
The principal towns of British America are Montreal, Quebec,
Toronto, Halifax, St. Johns, Hamilton, Ottawa, and Kingston.
MONTREAL
Was formerly the capital of Canada East. It is situated on
the island of Montreal, in the St. Lawrence river, at the mouth
of the Ottawa. The city occupies a tract of land about two
miles wide, between the river and a beautiful elevation called
Royal Mount.  It possesses a fine harbor and is extensively
engaged in commerce. It contains a number of elegant churches,
the finest of which is the Roman Catholic Cathedral, one of the
handsomest gothic buildings in North America, and capable of
seating from ten to twelve thousand persons, a town hall, a
French college, a university, a Roman Catholic theological
school, and several classical and scientific academies.  The city
was founded in 1640. In 1861, the population wras about ninety thousand.  (See views of Montreal.)




314            GEOGRAPHICAL HISTORY OF
QUEBEC
Is situated on the left bank of the St. Lawrence river one
hundred and eighty miles above Montreal. The city is beautifully situated at the extremity of a narrow table land which
forms the bank of the St. Lawrence for about eight miles. The
city is actively engaged in commerce. Manufactures are not
carried on to any great extent. It contains a large number of
elegant public and private buildings. The population in 1861
was about fifty-one thousand.  (See views of Quebec.)
TORONTO,
Formerly the capital of Canada West, is situated on a beautiful bay on the north-western shore of Lake Ontario, about
three hundred and ninety miles south-west of Montreal. It is
one of the most flourishing cities of British America. The
harbor, formed by the bay, on which the town is situated, is
beautiful and commodious.  The city contains many elegant
public buildings. The Government and Parliament houses are
very plain and unpretending, and have long been in use, but
they are soon to be superseded by new buildings. The city was
founded in 1794. The population in 1861 was about fortyfour thousand eight hundred.
HALIFAX,
The capital of Nova Scotia, is situated on a deep inlet of the
sea on the southern shore of that peninsula. It is actively
engaged in commerce with various parts of North America,
West Indies and Europe. The population is about thirty thousand.
ST. JOHNS,
The capital of Newfoundland, and the most eastern seaport of
North America, is situated on a peninsula which projects from
the eastern coast of the island of Newfoundland. The shortest
distance between any two seaports of Europe and America is
from this point to Galway, Ireland, being one thousand six hundred and sixty-five miles. The town is situated on an elevation,
and consists principally of one street about a mile in length.
The population is about twenty-five thousand.




BRITISH AMERICA.                315
HAMILTON
Is situated at the head of Burlington bay, at the western extremity of Lake Ontario. In the rear of the city is a mountain
rising to a considerable hight, and affording a delightful view of
the city and surrounding country. The city was laid out in
1813. The population in 1861 was about nineteen thousand.
OTTAWA,
One of the most flourishing towns of Canada West, is situated
on the right bank of the Ottawa river. It has recently been
selected as the capital of Canada. The necessary public buildings were completed in 1867, and the seat of government removed
to this place. The population in 1861 was about fourteen thousand six hundred.
KINGSTON
Is situated on the St. Lawrence river, at the foot of Lake
Ontario, about two hundred miles south-west of Montreal. It is
a flourishing city and growing rapidly. The population in 1861
was about thirteen thousand seven hundred.




CHAPTER VII.
GEOGRAPHICAL HISTORY OF MEXICO.
Mexico, of the grand divisions of North America the fourth
in size, and second in population, lies between latitude 15~ 58'
and 330 5' N., and longitude 86~ 43' and 117~ 5' W. This
territory is bounded on the north-east and north by the United
States-Texas, New Mexico, Arizona and California,-and 6n
the east-south-east by Guatemala, a province of Central America.  On the east the outline forms a semi-circle, which is washed
by the Gulf of Mexico; and on the west, south and south-west
is the Pacific Ocean.  The general outline of the country is very
irregular. The greatest length from north-west to south-est
is one thousand nine hundred miles; greatest width on a parallel of latitude is nine hundred and sixty miles; area, six hundred and sixty-eight thousand square miles. The most important indentation in the coast line is the Gulf of California, about
six hundred miles long and one hundred miles wide, and lying
between the peninsula of California, and Sonora and Sinaloa.
The interior of Mexico consists of a vast table-land, rising
from five thousand to nine thousand feet above the sea.  The
chief divisions of this great Mexican plateau are the Chihuahua
and Anahuac table-lands, the former from four thousand to six
thousand, and the latter from five thousand to nine thousand
feet in hight.  The table-land of Chihuahua is north of the
twenty-fourth parallel, and is a, bleak, barren and desolate region. Directly the reverse is the Anahuac plateau, a healthy,
rich and fertile tract, where flourishes vegetation peculiar to the
temperate zone.  The Sierra Madre mountain chain, a continuation of the Rocky mountains, crosses the plateau from north
to south.  The loftiest summits of the mountains of Mexico
occur in a chain which extends across the southern portion of




MEXICO.                      317
the table-lands from east to west. Here are the Smoking Mountain, or volcano of Popocatapetl, seventeen thousand seven hundred and seventeen feet high; Iztaccihuatl, the White Lady,
fifteen thousand seven hundred and five feet high; the peak of
Orizaba, seventeen thousand three hundred and eighty feet high;
Coffre de Perote, thirteen thousand four hundred feet high, and
the volcano of Tuxtla, five thousand one hundred and eighteen
feet high. About one hundred and seventy-five miles west of
the White Lady, is the far-famed volcano of Jurullo, which rose,
in September, 1789, from a level plain to the hight of four thousand two hundred and sixty-five feet.
The descents among the valleys of the Mexican plateau are
so gradual, that carriages can travel over it without much difficulty. On the contrary, the approach from the sea is steep and
precipitous, especially on the eastern side, where the summit can
be reached only by two roads. Between the base of the tableland and the Gulf of Mexico, is a considerable interval of low
and sandy land.
The rivers of Mexico are generally small, and are frequently
obstructed by rapids. The largest of these is the Rio Grande
del Norte, marking a portion of the boundary between Mexico
and the United States. It has a course of one thousand eight
hundred miles, and is navigable for small vessels to Matamoras,
forty miles from the Gulf of Mexico, which it enters.  The Rio
de Tampico, formed by the confluence of the Tula and Panuco,
enters the Gulf of Mexico after a course of four hundred miles.
The other rivers worthy of note are Rio Grande de Santiago
and Tecapan, entering the Pacific, the Sinaloa, entering the
Gulf of California, and the Conchas, Sabinas and Salinas, affluents of the Rio Grande. The Rio Grande de Santiago, originating in Guanajuato, drains Lake Chapala, and, after a course
of seven hundred miles, enters the Pacific near San Blas. Near
Guadalaxara the river has sixty falls in the space of three miles.
Mexico, like all other countries within the tropics, containing
high and low lands, exhibits a great variety of climate. The
rainy season generally continues from May till October, and the




318              GEOGRAPHICAL HISTORY
dry from October till May. From the Gulf of Mexico to the
summit of the table land will be found three climatic districts,
viz.: the hot, swampy, and pestilential lowlands, the temperate
regions, found between the hights of two and five thousand feet,
and cold and desolate regions above. Vegetation varies with
the climate, the lowlands yielding forests of oak, pine, mahogany,
ebony, and palm, anid the cooler regions wheat, barley, Indian
corn, cotton, tobacco, sugar-cane, fruits and spices.
The wild animals of Mexico are numerous. The jungles of
the lowlands are made the retreat of the cougar, or American
lion, ocelot, jaguarundi, tiger-cat, and the more formidable
jaguar, or American tiger. The American buffalo, known in
Mexico as Cibolo, in mid-winter, sweep in immense herds over
the lower districts from the plains of the north-west. The most
ferocious of the species of grizzly bear inhabits the northern
mountain districts. The tapir, wolf, American lynx, stag, deer,
sloth, armadillo, and weasel, are also peculiar to Mexico.
Various species of the monkey are found, and the cochineal insect is reared with great success. The forests swarm with countless varieties of the feathered family, as the parrot, hummingbird, and various species of wild game birds.
The mineral wealth of Mexico, particularly in gold and silver,
is very great. The mines are, however, but imperfectly worked,
and are not as productive as in former times. The chief deposits of gold occur north of the twenty-fourth parallel, on the
west side of the Sierra Madre. Silver, variously mixed with
sulphur, antimony and arsenic, is found in beds from twenty-five
to one hundred and fifty feet thick in the state of Guanajuato.
The annual product of gold and silver at the beginning of the
present century, amounted to about fifteen millions of dollars, of
which by far the greater portion was yielded by the silver.
Mexico has also mines of iron, copper, lead, zinc, and other
useful metals, which, however, have been but little worked.
The chief manufactures of Mexico are sugar, aloes, wine,
earthenware, silk, paper, and glass. In the city of Mexico are
fifty mills engaged in the manufacture of olive oil, and also manufactories of silk, producing forty thousand pounds annually.




OF MEXICO.                     319
The coast on the Gulf of Mexico is flat and sandy, and is
therefore deficient in good harbors. On the contrary the Pacific
shore is more bold, and abounds with excellent havens. Notwithstanding the unrivaled advantages which the country has
for trade, being washed by the Atlantic on one hand and the
Pacific on the other, and being rich in vegetable and mineral
productions, the commerce of Mexico is extremely limited. Her
commercial standing has been on the retrograde ever since her
independence of Spain was recognized. The chief exports are
gold, silver, cattle, hides, and cochineal.
The capital, and largest city of Mexico, is a city of the same
name. The other most important cities are La Puebla, Guadalaxara, Guanajuato, Queretaro, Merida, Morelia, Zacatecas,
Monterey, and Vera Cruz.
MEXICO,
The capital, is in the valley of Tenochititlan, on a table land
seven thousand four hundred and thirty feet above the sea, and
is environed on all sides by lofty mountain peaks. The city is on
a plateau, covering an area of seventeen hundred square miles,
and embracing in its extent five beautiful lakes. At the time of
the conquest by Cortez, the city occupied three islands in Lake
Tezcuco, and was approached by four large causeways, which
met in the heart of the city. In the center of the city is a fine
square of thirty or forty acres, known as Plaza Mayor, and
contains besides the cathedral, the National Palace and town
house. The chief streets converge towards this square, and are
broad, well-paved, and lighted with gas.
The cathedral is an imposing building, occupying the site of
the great teocalli, or temple of the Aztec god Mixitli.  This
structure, occupying an entire side of the Plaza Mayor, is five
hundred feet long, four hundred and twenty feet wide, and has
in front two towers, supported by immense pillars. The choir
is of finely carved wood, and the high altaris adorned with gold
and silver candle-sticks and crosses.  On another side of the
Plaza Mayor, is the palatial residence, formerly of the viceroys,
and at the present time, of the president. The other buildings




320               GEOGRAPHICAL HISTORY
of interest are the university, directly opposite the National
Palace, containing the National Museum, the Church of San
Domingo, a beautiful structure surmounted with a dome and
lofty spire, and the convents of St. Augustine and St. Francisco, elegant structures, adorned with a large number of domes
and cupolas. In the Plaza Mayor, is the kellenda, a circular
stone, on which are carved hieroglyphics, by which the Aztecs
used to represent months of the year; and in the court-yard of
the university is a colossal equestrian statue of Charles IV.
The other objects worthy of notice, are the magnificent aqueducts, which supply the city with water; the Alameda, a fine
public park of twelve acres, a great resort for the people on
occasions of festivity, and the Paseos, two fine promenades, the
one in'the eastern, and the other in the western section of the
city. Mexico has fifteen churches, fifty monasteries and convents, a large number of charitable institutions, a theatre, and
a circus, a circular enclosure called the Plaza de Toros, capacious enough to accommodate three thousand five hundred persons, where are celebrated bull-fights and other public amusements.
Mexico is the great focus of the internal trade of the republic.
The chief manufactures are carriages, leather, gold-lace, and
cigars, which, in connection with gold and silver, are the chief
articles of export.  Population in 1860, two hundred and five
thousand.
LA PUEBLA,
Called from the beauty of its location, the "' city of angels,"
is a finely built city, and capital of the state of the same name,
seventy-six miles south-east of Mexico.  The streets are well
paved. The city is built chiefly of stone, and has three colleges,
and manufactories of glass, soap, earthenwares, etc. Population in 1860, seventy-one thousand.
GUADALAXARA,
An important city of Mexico, and capital of the state of Jalisco, is on the southern bank of the Rio Grande de Santiago,
two hundred and seventy miles north-west of Mexico.




OF MEXICO.                    321
The most interesting building in the city is the cathedral, an
imposing edifice in the Plaza Mayor. This building does not
hold its former architectural rank, as both its towers were destroyed, and other injuries sustained, during the earthquake
of 1818. The Alameda, or public walk, is a fine promenade,
beautifully adorned with trees and flowers. The city has manufactories of iron, earthenware, leather and cloth. Population
in 1860, sixty-three thousand.
GUANAJUATO,
A city of Mexico, and capital of a state of its own name, is
in a narrow mountain defile, one hundred and sixty miles northwest of Mexico. The city is formed by a cluster of villages,
and is extensively engaged in mining. It has seven fine churches,
numerous chapels and convents, and a large public granary.
Population, fifty thousand.
QUERETARO,
Capital of a state of the same name, is a manufacturing town,
one hundred and ten miles north-west of Mexico. The city has
a monastery, in the center of finely ornamented grounds, a large
convent, and manufactories of cloth. It is supplied with water
by an aqueduct ten miles long. Population, twenty-nine thousand eight hundred.
MERIDA
Is an important city in the north-western part of Yucatan, of
which it is the capital. It is twenty-five miles from Sisal, its
port, and has a considerable trade. The finest building is the
cathedral, an imposing structure, in the central square.  This
square also contains the government house and Bishop's palace.
The city has a university and thirteen churches. Population,
forty thousand.
The inhabitants of Mexico, consisting of whites, Indians,
negroes and mixed races, number eight millions two hundred and
eighteen thousand.
21




322                     HISTORY
HISTORY OF MEXICO.
Mexico was discovered by Francisco Hernandez Cordova, in
1517. At the time of the discovery, a large portion of the
country was peopled by the Aztecs, a race of Indians farther
advanced in civilization than the majority of American Indian
tribes. The ruins of temples and cities still attest their skill in
architecture. They cultivated the land, introduced Indian corn
and cotton, built immense monuments and pyramids, and constructed bridges, aqueducts and roads.  In 1518, Grijalva
commanded a second expedition to Mexico, and on his return
confirmed the glowing accounts of Cordova. The description
of mines of gold and silver, and of treasures in cities, awakened
the deepest cupidity of the Spaniards, and in 1518, Velasques,
then governor of Cuba, dispatched Cortez, a Spanish adventurer, with an armed force, to Mexico, with instructions to conquer
the people and possess himself of their wealth. Cortez landed
at San Juan d'Ulloa, and marched, without opposition, to the
city of Mexico. Two years of incessant and terrible war followed, till finally, by strategem, and the aid of the adjacent hostile
tribes, the Spaniards succeeded in subduing the natives, overthrowing their empire, and adding the vast country of Montezuma to the Spanish American possessions. Mexico remained
firm in her allegiance to Spain till the period immediately succeeding the French revolution, when the country began to assume
a revolutionary aspect. This feeling was greatly intensified by
the clergy, who favored the movement, and did much to disseminate the growing spirit of discontent. The first revolt was
made in 1810, under the leadership of Hidalgo, a country priest.
Hidalgo was defeated, and quiet was for a time restored. In
1820, however, the rebellious spirit broke forth anew, and, after
a number of severe battles, the independence of the country
was acknowledged, and Mexico was proclaimed a constitutional
monarchy, with Don Augustin Iturbide as king, under the title
of Augustin I. Ever since this period Mexico has been harassed by jealous and covetous nations from without, and torn
by internal dissensions from within. Within the last forty years,
there have been no less than seventy revolutions, or different




OF MEXICO.                    323
governments, in Mexico. Iturbide was deposed, the constitutional government abolished, and a republican form of government
established, in part resembling that of the United States. The
first president, General Guadalupe Victoria, was elected in 1825.
In 1835, Texas revolted, and became independent of Mexico,
and ten years after, in 1845, became one of the United States.
In 1845, difficulties arose between Mexico and the United States,
concerning the boundary between the two countries, which occasioned a long and bloody war. (See United States.) After the
close of the war, Mexico was under the direction first, of Santa
Anna, and afterwards of Herrera. In 1852, the latter was
deposed, and General Cevallos was, for a, time, at the head of
affairs. He, also, failed to satisfy the people, and was succeeded by a number of others, till 1859, when Benito Juarez was
elected. His claims were contested by General Miramon, who
was at the head of the priestly, or conservative party, and the
country was plunged into a civil war.
Measures taken at this time by the Mexican authorities,
adverse to the interests of several foreign nations, brought into
the Mexican gulf a combined fleet of English, French, and
Spanish, for the purpose of obtaining redress for the acts offensive to them. An armistice was agreed upon, a treaty negotiated, which was ratified by all the contending powers, except
France, who, after the departure of the English and Spanish
fleets, declared war against president Juarez.  They obtained
possession of Puebla, gained other advantages, and finally, in
June, 1863, entered the capital. The feelings of the mass of
the people, owing to the horrors of the civil war then raging,
were in sympathy with the French; consequently the invaders
were greeted with joyful demonstrations on their arrival at the
city of Mexico. A provisional government was organized under
the protection of the French troops, which met on the tenth of
July, and voted almost unanimously to establish an imperial government, and to invite Archduke Maximilian, brother of the
emperor of Austria, and son-in-law of King Leopold of Belgium,
to accept the throne. This movement did not meet with the
approval of the United States, and France could not deem it




324                      MEXICO.
her duty to incur war with that power, in her efforts to rescue
Mexico from barbarism. The French troops were withdrawn,
and Maximilian was left to his own slender resources to establish
the empire. In encountering the opposition of the moral and
physical powers of the United States, and with Juarez concentrating his strengthened forces around him, his success became
hopeless. He repulsed the latter in several hard fought battles,
but was finally, by treachery and overwhelming numbers, defeated, taken prisoner, and, with his two chief generals, Miramon,
(the former rival of Juarez) and Mejia, executed.




CHAPTER VIII.
GEOGRAPHICAL HISTORY OF CENTRAL AMERICA
Central America is the name applied to a narrow and irregular country between seven and eighteen degrees north latitude.
It is bounded on the north-west, north, and north-east by Chiapas, Tabasco and Yucatan, provinces of Mexico, Bay of Honduras and Caribbean sea, and on the south-west by the Pacific
ocean. At the Isthmus of Panama, its narrowest portion, it is
only twenty miles from the Caribbean sea, on the east, to the
Pacific ocean, on the west. Greatest length of the country eight
hundred and seventy-five miles; greatest width, four hundred
miles; area, two hundred thousand square miles.
In surface, Central America bears a general resemblance to
Mexico. The table-lands decrease in hight as you advance
south, where the surface is varied by a range of low hills, and
at the Isthmus of Panama by a series of limestone elevations.
Bordering on the south-western edge of the table-land is a line
of volcanoes, which form in part the great volcanic chain on the
Pacific coast of America. The culminating point of Central
America is Volcan de Agua, having an altitude of fifteen thousand feet.
The chief river on the Pacific coast is the Lempa, rising in
the north-western part of the country, forming the boundary
between San Salvador and Honduras, and finally crossing the former state and entering an arm of the Pacific. On the Atlantic
coast is the San Juan, draining Lake Nicaragua, Bluefield,
Cape, and Patook rivers. The San Juan river has a course of
one hundred miles, and forms a part of the overland route of
one of the lines of California steamers. The chief lake, Nicaragua, found at an elevation of one hundred and twenty-five feet
above the sea, is ninety miles long and thirty miles wide, is interspersed by a large number of islands, and, in some places, is
two hundred and fifty feet deep. Lake Atitlan, in the north of




326               GEOGRAPHICAL HISTORY
Central America, is twenty-five miles long by ten miles wide, is
environed by lofty mountains, and is above eighteen hundred
feet deep.  The other important lakes are Managua, the waters
of which flow into Lake Nicaragua, and Petens, in the northern
part of Guatemala.
In climate and productions, Central America greatly resembles Mexico. The dry season lasts from October to May, and
the rainy season from May to October. The thermometer rises
as high as eighty-six degrees in March, but generally averages
about seventy-eight degrees at mid-day. The low lands yield
Indian corn, potatoes, sugar-cane, tobacco, and cocoa, while the
more elevated regions are rich in the products of the temperate
zone.
Central America comprises the five states of Guatemala, Honduras, San Salvador, Nicaragua, and Costa Rica. New Guatemala, the capital of the state of Guatemala, is the largest city.
Other important towns are Comayagua, San Salvador, Leon,
and San Jose.
NEW GUATEMALA
Is one hundred and six miles north-west of San Salvador, on
a large and fertile plain, five thousand feet above the level of
the sea. The great square contains the chief shops of the city,
the cathedral, an archbishop's palace, a vice-regal palace, and
government offices. The city is extensively engaged in manufactures, has sixty churches, five newspaper publications, a
university, several other schools, a bull-ring, and a theatre. In
the center of the city is a fine public fountain. Population
sixty thousand.
LEON,
An important town of Central America, and capital of the
state of Nicaragua, is built on the site of an old Indian town, on
a rich and spacious plain between Lake Managua and the Pacific ocean. It contains the cathedral, an Episcopal palace, a
number of churches, a college, and extensive manufactories of
leather and cutlery. Population thirty-five thousand.




OF CENTRAL AMERICA.                327
SAN JOSE,
A town of Central America, capital of Costa Rica, is fifteen
miles west of Matina, and about equi-distant from the Caribbean sea and Pacific ocean.'" It has grown up since the independence of this region was established, and has no buildings of
note, but it has succeeded to the importance and commercial
activity of Cartago, the former capital of the state." Population thirty thousand.
The population of Central America is estimated at about two
millions one hundred and sixty-two thousand, and consists of
whites and creoles, mestizoes, or the descendants of whites and
Indians, and natives.
Central America was first discovered by Columbus in 1502,
and in 1523 was visited by Pedro Alvarado, who was sent by
Cortez to conquer the country. The country remained subject
to Spain till 1823, when it threw off the yoke and became a
federal republic.




CHAPTER IX.
GEOGRAPHICAL HISTORY OF THE WEST INDIES.
The West Indies form three divisions: the Greater Antilles,
the Lesser Antilles, and the Bahamas.  The Greater Antilles
consist of Cuba, Hayti, Jamaica, and Porto Rico. The Lesser
Antilles consist of a chain of islands which extend from Porto
Rico to South America. The Bahamas are low islands of coral
formation.
Most of these islands are in possession of European nations.
Cuba and Porto Rico belong to Spain; Jamaica, the Bahamas,
and most of the Lesser Antilles to Great Britain, and the remaining islands, with the exception of Hayti, which is independent, are owned by France, Denmark, Holland, Sweden, and
Venezuela.
CUBA,
The largest and richest of the islands, is the most important
colonial possession of Spain. The island was discovered by
Columbus during his first voyage in 1492. He gave it the name
of Juana, which was afterwards changed to Fernandina, and again
to Santiago, but it is now called by its Indian name, Cuba. As
early as 1511 a permanent settlement was made by the Spaniards, who, since that time, have retained possession of the
island.
The city of Havana was taken possession of by the British in
1762, but was restored the following year. In 1851, Lopez, at
the head of a band of United States adventurers, invaded Cuba.
His men were all either slain or taken prisoners. Lopez, with
six of his companions, was garroted, and fifty of the prisoners
shot. The island is now undergoing a revolutionary movement.
The Cubans are endeavoring to throw off the dominion of Spain




THE WEST INDIES.                  329
and become an independent republic. The greater part of the
island is now held by the Cubans, who will probably, ere long,
succeed in establishing their independence.
The surface of the island is generally level. The only elevations of any importance are the Copper mountains, which extend
from one extremity of the island to the other, reaching their
culminating point at the eastern end at an altitude of about seven
thousand feet. Reefs of rocky formation, and marshy tracts
of country are found among the low lands of the coast. These
reefs penetrate into the sea between two and three miles, rendering navigation difficult and dangerous. The coast is generally
but little above the water level, and is subject to floods and inundations. There are some localities, however, where the sea is
deep to the water's edge, and in these places are found some of
the finest natural harbors in existence.  The rivers are not large,
and are navigable only for small boats.
The climate is tropical. Snow never falls, even on the highest
mountains. Vegetation is very luxuriant.  The principal productions are sugar, coffee, tobacco, cotton, cocoa, and indigo.
Havana was formerly the capital of the island, but since the
breaking out of the revolution the Cuban congress has met at
Guaimaro.  This town is situated on a plain, and surrounded by
a net work of seven small crooked rivers. The surrounding district is much of it covered with a dense wood, relieved only by
the course of the various rivers. The wisdom of the Cubans in
selecting Guaimaro as a capital, and fortifying it, is apparent.
It would be a difficult battle field for the Spaniards. They
would have fearful odds to encounter in plunging into a plain
upon which grow dense woods, and through which half a dozen
rivers wind and turn, so that none but a resident of the locality
would know upon which side he was standing.
HAVANA,
The former capital, and the principal city of the island, is
situated at the head of a beautiful bay on the north-western
shore of the island. The harbor is entered by a channel one




330               GEOGRAPHICAL HISTORY
half mile long, and so narrow that only one ship can enter it at
the same time. It is deep enough to receive vessels of the largest
size. At the mouth of the channel are two strong castles, Punta
on the west and Moro on the east. A light is fixed upon the
latter, one hundred and forty-four feet high, which can be seen
at a great distance.
Viewed from a distance, the city presents a picturesque and
imposing appearance, but on a closer inspection it is found to
possess but few attractions. The streets are narrow, ill-paved,
and dirty, and are lined with massive stone buildings, with barred
windows, which give the whole town a dreary and gloomy aspect.
The city, however, is not entirely destitute of beauty, for, besides
a number of handsome public buildings, it contains several parks
and public squares, and a great many fountains. The Plaza de
Armas is a beautiful enclosure, containing paved walks, fountains, and flowers, and is the site of the palaces of the governor,
and the residences of the nobility.
Havana is a bishop's See, and has a handsome display of religious establishments. The bishop's garden is one of the most
delightful retreats of the city.  Shady walks, lined with flowers
and plants and ornamental trees, among which the cocoanut and
palm are conspicuous, are found in large numbers throughout
the grounds.
The city contains a number of large churches, richly oramented with gold and silver lamps and images. A large cathedral
contains the ashes of Columbus, which were brought from San
Domingo in 1796.  The population of the city, including its
suburbs, is about one hundred and forty thousand. (See views
of Havana.)
HAYTI,
The second in size of the West Indies, is a rich and beautiful
island. The coast is irregular, being indented by numerous
gulfs and bays, and presenting corresponding projections. The
island was discovered by Columbus, during his first voyage. In
1773 the western part of the island was ceded to France. In




OF THE WEST INDIES.                 331
1821 a revolution broke out, and the inhabitants succeeded in
establishing for themselves first an empire, then an independent
republic.
The island is crossed by three mountain chains, between which
are extensive plains and savannas.  The vegetation, like all
tropical countries, is very luxuriant. Majestic trees and the
richest flowering plants clothe the mountains and adorn the valleys, forming some of the richest natural scenery on the globe.
The usual tropical fruits and vegetables, such as oranges, pine
apples, melons, grapes, plantains, bananas, yams, etc., are
abundant.
There are several lakes in the south-western part of the island.
The principal rivers rise in the central mountain chain. Their
navigation is obstructed by sand-bars.
The population of the island is estimated at about nine hundred and forty-three thousand.
JAMAICA
Is a beautiful and fertile island.  It has a coast line of about
five hundred miles, and is indented by a number of excellent
harbors. The general appearance of the island is very beautiful. It is traversed in all directions by lofty mountains, covered
with stately forests and intersected by vales, exhibiting the most
romantic scenery. The principal rivers are the Minho, Black,
and Cobre.
The commerce of the island is not in a very flourishing condition. The productions and exports have fallen off considerably during the last two or three years.
The population of the island is estimated at about three hundred and seventy-eight thousand.
PORTO RICO,
The fourth in size of the West Indies, is about ninety miles
in length, and thirty-six in width. The coast is indented by
numerous bays and gulfs, deep enough for vessels of considerable burden, but, owing to the tremendous ground seas, only




332                 THE WEST INDIES.
three of them are safe for vessels the year round. The climate
is mild. The inhabitants are principally engaged in agricultural
pursuits. The principal productions are sugar, molasses, coffee,
cotton and tobacco.
The population numbers about five hundred thousand.




CHAPTER X.
GEOGRAPHICAL HISTORY OF SOUTH AMERICA.
South America is a great peninsula, stretching from the Isthmus of Panama, in latitude 120 30' N., to latitude 55~ 59' S.,
and terminating in the bold and rocky promontory of Cape
Horn. From the latter point, passing north over the rocky
wastes of Patagonia, the grassy plains and extensive forests of
the La Plata and Amazon, and crossing the lofty mountains of
the Parina system, Point Gallinas, the northern extremity of
this division, is reached after a journey of over four thousand
eight hundred miles. Its greatest breadth from east to west, is
three thousand two hundred and thirty miles, and it contains
over six hundred and fifty thousand square miles.
In South America there are three great mountain systems,
viz.: Andean, the system of the Parina, and the Brazilian
system.  The Andean system extends, in a grand unbroken
range, from the Isthmus of Panama, to the Straits of Magellan,
a distance of four thousand five hundred miles. They run nearly parallel with the Pacific coast, and below 23~ south latitude,
consist of but a single chain.  North of this point, several
ranges run in parallel directions. The Andean mountains are
inferior in hight only to the Himalaya range of Asia; and
reach their culminating point with Sorata, twenty-four thousand
eight hundred and twelve feet above the sea. The Parina range,
also called the Highlands of Guiana, having a length of nine
hundred miles, comprises several parallel ranges, and separates
the basins of the Orinoco and Rionegro rivers. They extend
over a tract of country about three hundred and fifty miles wide,
and have an average elevation of four thousand feet, though
many of the peaks rise to a much greater hight. The Duida
has an altitude of eight thousand five hundred feet, and the
Maravaca towers still higher, being ten thousand five hundred




334               GEOGRAPHICAL HISTORY
feet high. The Brazilian mountains extend along the southeastern coast of Brazil, a distance of over two thousand miles.
They have an average elevation of three thousand five hundred
feet, and are found at a distance of from twenty to eighty miles
from the shore.  The culminating point of this range is mount
Itamba, reaching an altitude of five thousand nine hundred and
sixty feet. The Andes rise almost perpendicularly from the
Pacific coast, but towards the interior the descent is more
gradual.
Among the mountain peaks of South America, may be mentioned the Sahama, twenty-three thousand and fourteen, Aconcagua, twenty-three thousand, Tupungato, twenty-two thousand
four hundred and fifty, Gualateiri, twenty-two thousand, and
Chimborazo, twenty-one thousand and sixty-five feet high.
Among the volcanoes, Cotopaxi, Pichincha and Tunguragua, in
Equador, Aconcagua, in Chili, and Gualateiri and Arequipa, in
Peru, are the most important. Cotopaxi is an active volcano
on the eastern slope of the Andes, in latitude 41' south, and
longitude 780 42' west. It has an altitude of eighteen thousand
eight hundred and eighty-seven feet above the level of the sea,
and rises nine thousand eight hundred feet above the table-land
of Quito.  The upper four thousand feet forms a perfect cone,
which, except in the immediate vicinity of the crater, is covered
with snow throughout the year. The lava and stones, ejected
from this volcano, cover an area around its base of sixty square
miles. Flames have been known to issue from Cotopaxi three
thousand feet above the crater; and the roaring caused by its
eruptions can be heard at a distance of two hundred miles.
During an eruption in 1743, the flames forced several new vents
near the summit. The last great eruption occurred in 1803.
(See views of Cotopaxi.)
The volcano of Pichincha is situated eleven miles north-west
of Quito. The summit of the volcano, found at an altitude of
fifteen thousand nine hundred and twenty-four feet, is covered
with ice and snow throughout the year. The most remarkable
feature of Pichincha is its crater, which is three miles in circumference and one and one-fourth miles deep. Prior to the




OF SOUTH AMERICA.                 335
Spanish invasion, Pichincha was an active volcano, since which
time it has been silent. (See views of Pichincha.) The Tunguragua volcano has a hight of sixteen thousand four hundred
and twenty-four feet. Its greatest eruption occurred on the
23d of April, 1773, when an immense flood of lava was ejected
from the volcano, which lies in hardened masses at its base.
(See views of Tunguragua.)
Among the objects of interest in connection with the surface
of South America, may be mentioned an immense rock, or
bowlder, in the province of Antioquia, United States of Columbia, called El Penol. It covers six acres of ground, and rises
four hundred and sixty-four feet above the level of the surrounding country. (See view.)
With the exception of the Brazilian mountains and tableland, and the Parina range, the section of country east of the
Andes is one vast plain. The northern division of this plain is
the Llanos of the Orinoco, a vast tract, almost as level as the
ocean. During the rainy season this territory is covered with
rich grass, but with the return of the dry season life and vegetation cease. The rich mould is crumbled into sand, and the
surface becomes filled with large rents and cracks.  The Selvas,
or forest plains of the Amazon, extend from the mouth of that
river to the region of the periodical inundation.  The great
moisture and heat of this region greatly promote the luxuriance
of the vegetable kingdom.  "Behold," says Guyot, " under the
same parallel, where Africa presents only parched table-lands,
those boundless virgin forests of the basin of the Amazon, those
selvas, almost unbroken, over a length of over fifteen hundred
miles, forming the most gigantic wilderness of this kind that
exists on any continent. And what vigor, what luxuriance of
vegetation! The palm trees, with their slender forms, boldly
uplift their heads one hundred and fifty or two hundred feet
above the ground, and domineer over all other trees of these
wilds, by their hight, by their number, and by the majesty of
their foliage. Climbing plants, woody-stemmed twining lianos,
infinitely varied, surround them with their flexible branches,
display their own flowers upon the foliage, and combine them in




336               GEOGRAPHICAL HISTORY
a solid mass of vegetation, impenetrable to man, which the axe
alone can break through with success."
The Pampas of the La Plata, or plains of Buenos Ayres,
are rich districts north of Patagonia, covered with a luxuriant
growth of grass, which affords abundant pasturage for the herds
of horses and cattle which exist in this region. A large tract
of marsh country, a short distance north-west, abounds with
lakes, and rich grassy meadows again appear above the headwaters of the Paraguay river. During the dry season, these
plains, the same as the Lianos, become destitute of vegetation.
The deserts of Patagonia extend from the Atlantic to the base
of the Andes, and cover an area of one hundred thousand square
miles. They occupy nearly all the territory south of the Rio
Negro, and are frequently diversified by huge bowlders and
rocky hights.
The chief rivers of South America are the Orinoco, Amazon,
and La Plata. The Orinoco rises among the mountains in the
southern part of Venezuela, flows first north and then east, and
after a course of sixteen hundred miles, enters the Atlantic
through several mouths. It drains an area of two hundred and
seventy-two thousand square miles.  There are rapids in the
Orinoco, below its junction with the Guaviare, called the Altures,
and thirty-six miles below they again appear, and are called
Maypures.  The mighty Amazon, rising among the Andes, receives the waters of the Rio Negro, Coqueta, Coary, Jurua,
Purus, Madeira, Tapajos, Xingu, and Tocantius, and pours a
volume of water into the ocean with such force that it remains
unmixed with the waters of the sea for a distance of two hundred
and fifty miles from the shore. It has a course of four thousand
miles, and enters the ocean through several mouths, at which
point it is, including the islands, two hundred and fifty miles
wide. The La Plata river, formed by the confluence of the Salado with the Parana, enters the Atlantic with such force that
its current is perceptible at a distance of one hundred and seventy-five miles from the shore. The river at Montevideo is fiftythree miles wide, and gradually expands, till at the mouth it has
a width of one hundred and seventy miles.




OF SOUTH AMERICA.                 337
The wild animals of South America are numerous, though
not as ferocious as those of Asia and Africa.  The jaguar,
puma, ocelot, and tiger-cat are the most formidable.  The
ant-eater, sloth, armadillo, deer, antelope, ape, monkey, etc., are
peculiar to the tropical regions of South America. Among the
birds, the condor of the Andes, is conspicuous. There are also
numbers of parrots, humming birds, toucans, macaws, and birds
of prey, such as the eagle, vulture, falcons, etc.
South America has, for the most part, a tropical climate. In
no section, however, of this country, do we find that intense
heat, which its geographical position would lead us to expect.
The prevalence of the trade-winds, the position of high mountains, and other physical causes, give the country a more uniform
temperature, than it otherwise would enjoy. In passing south
from the lowlands near the equator, or advancing up the mountain slopes, the heat of the torrid zone, is gradually succeeded
by the more pleasing climate of the temperate zone. In Patagonia, the cold becomes severe; and snow falls almost daily, at
the Strait of Magellan.
No other country can boast of a greater luxuriance, or variety of vegetation, than South America. On the slopes of the
Andes and Cordilleras, is a vast amount of fertile land, which
with proper attention would make a great agricultural district.
In Ecuador, this region has three divisions, Ambato, Quito, and
Cuenca, which includes the larger portion of the cultivated lands
of the state. (See views in the valley of Ambato.)
In South America the forest trees are more various, and reach
a greater size than those of the old world. The most important
are the palm, cocoanut, balsam, passion-flower tree, and oak.
Sugar-cane, wheat, barley, Indian corn, and potatoes are produced at elevations of from five thousand to ten thousand feet.
Among the fruits produced may be mentioned mangabas, pomegranates, oranges, limes, cocoa-nuts, banannas, pine-apples, mangoes, mammoons, and jambas.
The countries embraced within the limits of South America
are nine republics, viz: Venezuela, United States of Columbia,
22




338              GEOGRAPHICAL HISTORY
Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Chili, Argentine Confederation, Urugray, and Paraguay; the empire of Brazil, the colonies of
British, French, and Dutch Guana, and the unsettled district of
Patagonia.
The chief towns of South America are Rio Janeiro and Bahia
of Brazil, Buenos Ayres of the Argentine confederation, and
Lima of Peru.
QUITO
Is a city situated among the Andes of Ecuador, on the Quito
table-land, nine thousand five hundred and forty-three feet above
the sea. The city contains a number of fine squares, one of
which contains the town-hall, cathedral, palaces of the president
and archbishop of the republic, and a fine bronze fountain. The
university, orphan asylum, large hospital, work-house, and
churches and convents comprise the other important buildings.
Near the church of San Francisco is a fine public fountain,
which supplies a large number of the people with water. (See
views.)
The scenery which surrounds Quito is picturesque in the
highest degree. " From the terrace of the government palace,"
says Humboldt, "' there is one of the most enchanting prospects
the human eye ever witnessed, or nature ever exhibited. Looking to the south, and glancing to the north, eleven mountains,
covered with perpetual snow, present themselves, their bases
apparently resting upon the verdant hills which surround the
city." Quito was made a city in 1541, by Charles V. of Spain.
Population seventy-six thousand. (See views of Quito.)
AMBATO
Is a town of Ecuador, one hundred miles south-east of Quito,
on the northern slope of Chimborazo, eight thousand eight hundred and fifty-nine feet above the sea. It was destroyed by an
eruption of Cotopaxi in 1698, but was rebuilt, and soon became
more flourishing than before. It has some good buildings, and
carries on an active trade in grain, sugar and cochineal, the
products of the surrounding country. Population, fifteen thousand. (See views of Ambato.)




OF SOUTH AMERICA.                 339
IBARA
Is an important town of Ecuador, fifty miles north-east of
Quito, at the foot of the volcano of Imbabura. It is in a fertile
region, well built, and has about fifteen thousand inhabitants.
(See views at Ibara.)
MARAYCABO,
Is a city and port of entry of Venezuela, and capital of a
province of its own name, on the western side of the entrance
from Maraycabo Gulf into Maraycabo Lake. It has several
monasteries and convents, and a large and handsome parish
church. The harbor is obstructed by a bar, on which there is
only eight feet of water at ebb tide.  Population, eighteen
thousand. (See views of Maraycabo.)
Within sight of Maraycabo is the town of Los Haticos, the
streets of which are finely shaded with magnificent palms and
cocoa-nut trees. (See views at Los Haticos.)
South America was discovered by Christopher Columbus, who
landed at the mouth of the Orinoco river in 1498. All the
country, except Brazil and Guana, was claimed by Spain, and
remained subject to that power till the beginning of the present
century, when the different provinces threw off the Spanish yoke,
and established themselves as independent republics. Brazil was
claimed by Portugal, and remained in her possession till 1822,.
when a peaceful separation was effected. Guana is divided
between the British, French, and Dutch.








FOREIGN OBJECTS
I  t  S TF
INTERES T.








CHAPTER I.
]BRITISH ISLES.
The British islands are west of Europe, and comprise England,
Scotland, Ireland, Wales, and many adjacent islands.
England, the seat of government of Great Britain, is situated
south of Scotland, and east of Wales. The surface is generally
level or undulating, the climate moist and mild, and the soil fertile and productive.
LONDON,
The capital of the empire, and the largest city in the world,
is situated on both sides of the Thames, in England. It had,
according to the census of 1865, a population of three millions
and fifteen thousand. It is the first city in commercial importance, and covers an area of one hundred and twenty-two square
miles.
In the beginning of cold weather the city is sometimes enveloped in fogs so dense, that it is necessary, in the business part
of the city, that the buildings should be lighted, and vehicles
are unable to pass through the streets. The thick atmosphere
and the cloud of smoke constantly hovering over the city, renders it difficult to view the whole metropolis from any one point.
But from a number of positions views of portions of the great
mass of buildings may be obtained, the magnificent dome of St.
Paul's cathedral forming a conspicuous object in nearly every
one. This church, in point of architecture, is the greatest ornament of the city. Its foundation was laid on Lodgate Hill in
1675. It is five hundred and ten feet long and two hundred
and fifty wide, exclusive of the porticos. The building is surmounted by a massive and handsome dome, on the top of which
is a lantern with a ball and cross, the hight of which is four hundred and four feet above the ground. The west front has a
beautiful double portico of coupled columns and two clock towers,




344                  BRITISH ISLES.
over which rises the cupola. This magnificent edifice is built of
Portland stone, and was constructed at a cost of seven hundred
and forty-seven thousand nine hundred and fifty-four pounds.
Westminster Abby, next to St. Paul's, the finest church edifice
in London, was erected during the reign of Henry III. and Edward I. The beautiful chapel on the east end was built under
the auspices of Henry VII., and is known as his chapel. This
edifice is three hundred and sixty feet long and one hundred and
ninety-five feet wide. In this building have been crowned all
the kings and queens of England, from Edward, the Confessor,
to Queen Victoria, and here a number of them have been interred.
London Tower occupies an area of twelve acres. It rises
amidst an assemblage of ancient walls, battlements, and turrets.
The central and most ancient part of the existing structure,
known as the White tower, was erected in 1078, during the
reign of William, the conqueror.
The House of Parliament is a vast and magnificent structure,
containing the House of Lords, the House of Commons and various offices and apartments connected with parliamentary business.
This massive edifice, covering about eight acres of ground, is
situated between the river Thames and Westminster Abbey. The
House of Lords is decorated with carved oak panelling, gilding,
fresco paintings, and richly stained glass windows. This apartment is ninety-seven feet long, forty-five wide, and forty-five high.
The House of Commons is somewhat smaller, and not so handsomely decorated.
St. James' palace was erected by Henry VIII.  It is an irregular brick building, and has nothing striking in its appearance
externally. In this palace royal levees are held. It has also
drawing rooms, and is much resorted to during the fashionable
season.
Buckingham palace, opposite St. James' park, was erected by
George IV. The east front, in the Italian style, is higher than
the rest of the building, and adds much to its beauty. The
palace has a gallery one hundred and sixty feet long, in which
are fine pictures. The Queen resides here during the greater
part of the spring and summer months.




BRITISH ISLES.                  345
One of the greatest architectural ornaments of London is
Whitehall, or the Banqueting house. Kensington palace, the
birth-place of Queen Victoria, is a plain brick building situated
in Kensington garden.
The Mansion house, constructed at a cost of seventy-one thousand pounds, is situated in the east end of the Boultry. It was
built between the years 1739 and 1753, and is the residence of
the Lord Mayor.
The British museum, on Russel street, is a large and imposing edifice, founded in 1753. It has an Ionic front, with sculptured ornaments, and contains Assyrian, Greek, Egyptian, and
other antiquities, and also a large collection of sculptures, coins,
minerals, books, manuscripts, stuffed animals, and a library of
four hundred and sixty thousand volumes, to which the public
have access three days of the week.
London university was founded in 1837 for the exclusive purpose of conferring degrees, the candidates for which are furnished
by University college, and King's college. The course of education embraces history, science, medicine, jurisprudence, and
the classical languages.
The great world's exhibition, originated by Prince Albert and
held in a magnificent crystal palace, erected in Hyde Park, was
first opened in 1851. This palace was nearly a half mile in
length, the center forty-eight, and the sides twenty-four feet in
hight.  The whole structure which cost 347,937 pounds, has
since been removed and re-erected at Sydenham, on a still more
magnificent scale. (See views of London.)
The limits of London, as defined by a parliamentary act for
parliamentary purposes, are within a circle, the center of which
is the Post office, the radius being three miles.  The actual
area of this great metropolis greatly exceeds this, embracing
the city of Westminster, the parliamentary boroughs of Tinsbury, Southwork, Lambeth, Marglebone, Tower Hamlets, and
the towns of  Greenwich, Dalwich, Clapham, Kensington,
Hampstead and others.




346                   BRITISH ISLES.
GREENWICH,
Located on the right bank of the Thames, is about five miles
south-east of London bridge. The older streets are narrow and
irregular, but those recently laid out are wide, and numerous
handsome houses have been built. The most interesting institution of Greenwich is the magnificent Naval hospital, a home for
the superanuated seamen. It is one of the finest structures in
England, and was erected in 1694 by the munificence of William
and Mary. (See views of Hospital.)
On an eminence in Greenwich park, is the observatory, founded in 1674 by Charles II. From this meridian, longitude is
reckoned in all British charts. The park was first enclosed by
the Duke of Gloucester.  It embraces about two hundred acres,
a part of which is covered by a forest in which are numerous
herds of deer, forming a great place of resort for the Londoners.
LIVERPOOL,
The second city in population, and the principal seaport of
England, is about two hundred and ten miles from London.
The city is about five miles in length, and nearly three in width.
The principal public buildings are the town hall, exchange and
revenue buildings, and St. George's hall. The latter, in which
are the Assize Courts, is in the center of the city. This sumptuous building is five hundred feet in length, and is constructed
in the Corinthian style. The most remarkable feature of Liverpool is the number and magnificence of its docks, covering an
area of more than four hundred acres. (See views of Liverpool.)
CAMBRIDGE,
A parliamentary borough and seat of Cambridge university,
is about fifty miles from London. The University of Cambridge,
founded in the seventh century, now consists of thirteen colleges
and four halls, viz.: St. Peter's, Caius, Corpus Christi, King's,
Queen's, Jesus Christ's, St. John's, Magdalene, Trinity, Emmanuel, Sidney Sussex, Downing colleges, and Clare, Pembroke,
Trinity, and Catharine halls.  Some of these buildings are the




BRITISH ISLES.                   347
most magnificent in the kingdom. A student of this university
is called a Cantab. (See views of Cambridge.)
OXFORD,
County seat of Oxford county, is about fifty-five miles from
London. On High street, the principal thoroughfare of the
city, are the university colleges, nineteen in number, and the
five halls connected  with the university; also Magdalene,
Queen's, and All Souls' colleges and University church. (See
views of Oxford.)
DARTMOUTH,
A seaport town of Devon county, England, is most picturesquely built on a succession of terraces on the west side of the
estuary of the Dart, the entrance to which is defended by a castle
and strong batteries. (See views of Dartmouth.)
WARWICK,
A parliamentary borough, is situated on the right bank of the
Avon. The principal object of interest in this town, is Warwick
castle. The credit of founding this castle is bestowed on Ethelfieda, daughter of Alfred the Great. It is probably the most
magnificent feudal fortress in England.  (See views of Warwick castle.)
About two miles north of Warwick, is Guy's Cliff, containing
the hermitage of Sir Guy, Earl of Warwick. During the reign
of Henry VI, a chapel was here built by Beauchamp, Earl of
Warwick, and contains a colossal statue of Sir Guy. (See views
of Guy's Cliff.)
WINDSOR
Is a parish of Berks county. It is situated on the right bank
of the Thames. The river is here crossed by an iron bridge,
connecting Windsor with Eaton, the seat of Eaton college,
founded by Henry VI., in 1446. (See views of Eaton college.)
The town is built principally upon one street, winding around




348                   BRITISH ISLES.
the south and west sides of Windsor castle. It is well built, and
contains some handsome private buildings. (See views of Windsor castle.)
Among the principal cathedrals of England, outside of London, are the Exeter, Wells, Petersborough, Durham, and Ely
cathedrals. The Exeter cathedral, a noble edifice of great antiquity, is four hundred and eight feet long, and one hundred
and thirty in hight. Its west facade is one of the most beautiful in the kingdom. Wells' cathedral dates from the time of
Henry III. The interior is beautifully ornamented. The central tower of the building is one hundred and seventy-eight feet
in hight. Petersborough cathedral was founded by Peada, in
635. The building is four hundred and seventy-one feet long.
The front consists of three pointed arches, each eighty feet high,
surmounted by spires and pinnacles. Durham cathedral was
founded in 1093. Its greatest length and breadth are five hundred and seven feet, and two hundred feet respectively, and the
hight of the central tower is two hundred and fourteen feet.
Ely cathedral was built between the reigns of William Rufus
and Edward III. It is a singular and magnificent edifice in the
Norman, Saxon, and Gothic styles, and contains many interesting monuments. (See views of the different cathedrals.)
SCOTLAND.
This division of Great Britain is north of England, from
which it is partly separated by the Chevoit hills. The Grampian mountains divide the surface of Scotland into the lowlands
and highlands, the latter lying north and the former south of
this range. The general surface, particularly in the northern
part, is in striking contrast with that of England, possessing
few of the valleys for which the latter is so remarkable. Many
of the mountains belonging to theGrampian range, have a
rounded form, terminating in fantastic peaks, among which are
Ben Nevis, Ben Lomond, Ben Macdhue, and Ben Venue. A
noted pass of this range is the Killiecrankie. The river Garro
here flows for a distance of two miles, through a narrow, rocky




BRITISH ISLES.                    349
and precipitous defile, along which a road has been cut. Another system, with their general level much lower, and their summits much more lofty than the Grampian range, lies to the north
and west of lakes of Glenmore.  The most elevated of these
summits are Ben Wyvis, Ben Moore, Ben Clibbrick, Bendearge,
and Morren. The lakes of Scotland are in the glens of the
highlands, and are noted for their varied and picturesque scenery, and also for being much longer than wide.  The most
remarkable are Loch Lomond, Loch Ketrine, Lock Tummel,
Lock Achray, Loch Rannoch, and Loch Tay. To Scotland,
belong all the islands that line its coast. On the east side they
are small and few in number, on the north are the groups of
Orkneys and Shetlands, and on the west side is a series of
groups called the Hebrides. Staffa, a much celebrated island
belonging to the latter group, is composed of conglomerated trap.
On this island are a number of caves resembling architectural
designs.  Of these, Fingal's Cave is the most remarkable.  The
entrance is formed by columnar ranges, supporting a magnificent and lofty arch.  The entrance is thirty-three feet
wide, and sixty feet high, and the length of the cave is two hundred and twenty-seven feet. The cave is composed of complicated ranges of gigantic columns. The floor is the sea, from
which is reflected on the pendent roof, whitened with calcareous stalagmites, many colored lights. Of the other caves
on the island, the most noteworthy is the Clam Shell Cave,
deriving its name from the peculiar curve of the basaltic columns,
giving it the appearance of pecten-shell.  (See views.)
EDINBURGH,
The capital of Scotland, is situated on a picturesque cluster
of hills, about one and a half miles from the Frith of Forth, in
the county of Mid Lothian.  Owing to the recent growth of
the city, it is at present nearly connected with the town of
Leith.
The Abbey of Holyrood was founded in the twelfth century,
by David I., a pious Scottish king, who endowed the clergyman




350                  BRITISH ISLES.
of this parish with power to found a burgh in a westerly direction up the slope, toward Edinburgh; and thus was built Canongate, a suburb now united to the city. A royal palace sprung
up about this time, which became a favorite place of resort for
Scottish kings and nobles. This edifice and the Holyrood palace were among the earliest buildings of Edinburgh. The Royal
or Edinburgh Castle was undoubtedly the first erection in the
city. Edinburgh being a fortified town, in 1436 the capital was
removed to this place from Perth. After this event, while sursurrounding cities sunk into obscurity, Edinburgh greatly
increased in size and population. The city being walled, the
houses were necessarily built high, consisting of a number of
stories, each floor serving the purpose of a dwelling. The design
of the buildings resembles those of Paris.  One of the finest
features of Edinburgh are the Public Gardens, which are laid
out in the valley between the old town and the new. Of the
public monuments in the city, the one erected in honor of Sir
Walter Scott is the most remarkable.  It was designed by
George M. Kemp, is two hundred feet high, and is in the form of
an elaborate gothic cross.
The chief educational establishments of the city are the High
School, New Academy, University, and Medical Schools. Some
of the buildings of interest in Edinburgh are the Castle, in
which are shown the ancient regalia of Scotland; the extensive
Library of the Faculty of Advocates; the Royal Institute,
which contains the apartments of the Royal Society; the Museum of the Society of the Scottish Antiquaries; the general
Register House, where the whole of the rights and pecuniary
obligations connected with hereditable property are registered,
and state documents preserved; the Parliament House, used by
the Scottish parliament previous to the union with England;
the University buildings; the National Gallery of Art; and the
Palace and Abbey of Holyrood. (See views in Edinburgh.)
GLASGOW,
The principal commercial city of Scotland, situated on both
sides of the Clyde, is, after London, one of the largest and most




BRITISH ISLES.                   351
important cities of the British empire. By far the greater portion of the city is built on the northern bank of the river. Three
handsome stone bridges span the river at this place, two of which
are of solid granite, and are greatly admired for their light and
graceful architecture. There are also two suspension bridges for
the accommodation of foot passengers. The city has a somewhat smoky appearance, owing to its numerous workshops, factories, etc.  It is about three miles in length and eight in
circumference. The houses are built of freestone, and in much
the same style as those of Edinburgh.
Glasgow has three parks, viz: Green, containing one hundred
and forty acres, and occupying the level next to the Clyde;
Queen's park, beautifully situated on rising ground; and Kelvingrove, embracing forty acres, sloping toward Kelvin river. The
city of Glasgow originated with the cathedral and university,
both of which are in the north-east part of the city. The site
of the cathedral is an eminence on the bank of a ravine traversed
by the Molendinar.  This edifice was founded during the reign
of David I. A lofty tower rises from the center two hundred
and twenty-five feet in hight. The Necropolis, opposite the
cathedral, is a handsome cemetery studded with monuments, and
tastefully decorated with trees and shrubs.  Several of the
banks, many of the churches, and the royal exchange, in Green
street, are excellent specimens of architecture. An obelisk, one
hundred and forty-four feet high, is situated in the park, or
green as it is generally called. This park embraces one hundred and forty acres, and is used by the inhabitants as a place
of recreation. The botanic garden covers an area of forty acres,
and every summer, during the fair holidays, it is thrown open,
and visitors admitted. (See views in Glasgow.)
Glen Urquhart is a parish of Scotland.  It contains the remains of an ancient castle and Druidic antiquities.  Blair Athole
is an extensive parish, in which are the mountains of Benygloe
and Bendeare, the pass of Killiecrankie and Blair Athole castle,
seat of the Duke of Athole.  (See views of Glen Urquhart,
Blair Athole, and Benygloe.)




352                   BRITISH ISLES.
BALMORAL CASTLE
Is in a picturesque dell in Bracmar, the south-western district of
Aberdeenshire.  This castle is the residence of Queen Victoria.
It is located on an elevation sloping back from the river Dee,
and commands a magnificent prospect on every side. Craigangowan rises in the background, and the castle, which is built of
granite, when viewed at a distance, presents a strong and imposing appearance, looking as though it had been hewn out of
one vast rock of that material. The old castle not being sufficiently commodious, Prince Albert erected a new one at his own
expense in the Scottish balmoral style of architecture. The
castle, which consists of two separate blocks of buildings, is
united by wings, and surmounted by a massive tower thirty-five
feet square, rising to the hight of eighty feet, and surmounted
by a turret twenty feet high. Prince Albert has recently made
great improvements upon the edifice and the property surrounding it. The estate, at present, includes Birkhall, the seat of
Prince Albert, Knock castle ruins, Loch Muich, and dark Lochnagar, about seven miles south-west of Balmoral castle, and
contains ten thousand acres in addition to thirty thousand acres
of hill ground which has been converted into a deer forest.
Among other residences of the nobility are Inverary castle,
west of the town of Inverary, the seat of the Duke of Argyle,
Taymouth castle, the seat of the Marquis of Breadelbane, on
the right bank of the Tay, in Perth county, Drummond, the
seat of Lord Willoughby, and Abbotsford, the celebrated seat
of Sir Walter Scott, in Roxburg county, on the Tweed. (See
views of castles.
IRELAND,
The most western of the islands of Great Britain, is in the
shape of a rhomboid. The surface is very irregular, no part of
the island being more than fifty miles from the coast.  The
climate is moist and mild, and the atmosphere is seldom clear or
free from fog. The mountainous regions are along the shore, and
instead of being in continuous ranges, are in isolated masses.
A considerable distance on the shore of Ireland is distinguished




BRITISH ISLES.                    353
for its basaltic cliffs and caves, the most remarkable of which is
the Giant's Causeway, which projects into the sea from the base
of a stratified rock, about four hundred feet in hight, seven
hundred in length, and three hundred and fifty in breadth. It
is separated into three divisions by whinstone dykes. The name
of this stupendous formation is derived from a popular legend,
ascribing the work to some giants, who were endeavoring to
construct a bridge across the sea to Scotland.
In the interior of the island are a vast number of lakes, some
of which are so near together as to form a continued series.
The lakes of Killarney are celebrated for their romantic scenery. Few countries of the same extent are traversed by as
many rivers as Ireland.  In some of them  are waterfalls of
great beauty, and the valleys through which they flow are noted
for the magnificence of their scenery. (See views of natural
scenery.)
DUBLIN,
The capital and largest city of Ireland, is situated on the
Liffey, in the eastern part of the island. In the ancient part
of the city occur Christ's Church and St. Patrick's Cathedral.
This division of the town is not well built, and is irregular and
filthy. In the east quarter is Sackville street, one of the finest
thoroughfares in Europe. On this street are the Rotunda, Postoffice, and the Nelson Pillar; also, Rutland, Mountjoy, and
Marlborough squares.  In the southern part of the city is
the Dublin Castle, situated on an eminence, and containing
an arsenal, an armory, the viceregal chapel, and various government offices. The principal church edifices are St. George
Frindloter, twenty-nine Protestant and nine Roman Catholic
parochial churches. (See views of Dublin.)
BELFAST,
A port and parliamentary borough of Ireland, is the principal
commercial city, and the seat of the linen manufacture. The
houses are of brick, and well built; the streets are spacious, well
lighted, and macadamized. Among the educational institutions
23




354                  BRITISH ISLES.
are Queen's College, an edifice of brick and stone; the Presbyterian College; the Royal Academical Institution, founded in
1810; the Belfast Academy, and other national and private
schools. The chief public buildings are the custom-house, commercial buildings, hotels, offices, reading and music halls, and
the new house of correction. (See views of Belfast.)
YOUGHAL
Is a seaport town of Munster county, situated on the west side
of the Blackwater.  The town was formerly enclosed by walls,
the ruins of which still remain. It contains a court house, custom house, hospital, barracks, and also the former residence of
Sir Walter Raleigh.  The culture of the potato in Ireland was
first introduced at this place by Sir Walter Raleigh.
WALES.
Wales, a part of the British empire, joins England on the west.
The surface is rugged and mountainous, particularly in the
northern part. Snowden, the culminating point of South Britain,
rises to the hight of three thousand five hundred and seventy
feet. Among the chief cities are Merthyr Tydvil, the largest
town, noted for its iron works, Swansea, the principal seat of
the copper trade, and much resorted to for sea-bathing, and
Conway, the seat of the Conway castle, founded by Edward I.
It is in a good state of preservation, and one of the greatest
feudal fortresses in the kingdom. (See views of Wales.)
THE ISLE OF WIGHT
Is south of England, in the English channel. It has an area
of one hundred and thirty-six square miles. The center is much
more elevated than the margin, the highest elevation being eight
hundred and thirty feet above the sea. Newport is the capital.
The principal towns are Yarmouth, Ryde, Ventnor, and Cowes.
Near the latter is the Osborn house, a favorite summer residence
of Queen Victoria. (See views of the Osborn house.)




CHAPTER II.
FR ANCE.
This is one of the most populous and influential empires on
the globe. It is situated in the south-western part of Europe,
and covers an area of about ninety-seven thousand square miles.
It includes under its dominion, a large number of small islands
and colonies in various parts of the world.  The population,
including that of its possessions, is forty-one millions sixty-three
thousand three hundred and forty-nine.
The surface of the country is somewhat broken by mountain
ranges, though it contains only a few lofty summits. The principal ranges are the Pyrenes, on the south, separating it from
Spain, and the Alps, on the south-east, separating it from Italy.
Both these ranges are celebrated for their beautiful scenery. At
their base and along their sides, are beautiful villages, sometimes
occupying an elevation of several thousand feet. Luz and St.
Sauveur in the Pyrenes, are celebrated for their mineral springs.
(See views.) Mount Blanc, the culminating point of the Alps,
and the highest mountain of Europe, is situated in the province
of Savoy, which was ceded to France in 1860. The mountain
is about fifteen thousand eight hundred feet in hight. It is situated at the dividing line between France, Switzerland and Italy.
The limit of the snow line is about eight thousand feet above
the level of the sea.  It forms the terminus of the Grurain
Alps, one of the divisions of the western Alps. Thirty-four
glaciers are found in this range, occupying an area of about
ninety-five square miles. The largest of these is the Mer de
Glace, or " sea of ice." The lower part of this glacier is called
the Glacier des Bois.  These glaciers extend north-east into
Switzerland. It is thought that the whole extent covered by
these fields of ice, in the different Alpine ranges, is not less
than one thousand five hundred square miles, and averaging




356                       FRANCE.
about one hundred feet in depth. The valley of the Chamouni,
lying at the base of Mount Blanc, is remarkable for its beautiful scenery. The glaciers which descend into it are the grandest
of the Alps.  The valley contains three villages, Chamouni,
lying at the foot of Mont Blanc, Argentine, and Ouches. (See
views.)
The rivers of France are rapid in their course, and of but
little value for navigable purposes.
PARIS,
The capital and principal city, is situated upon two islands
formed by the river Seine, about one hundred and ten miles from
its mouth. It is surrounded by a range of hills, the highest of
which attains an elevation of about two hundred feet. Recently
a line of fortifications has been built, enclosing the city and a
large portion of the suburbs. The city proper is enclosed by an
interior wall.  Between this wall and the fortifications are what
is called the outer Boulevards, making nearly the circuit of the
town. The inner Boulevards, just within the interior wall, are
a finely planted thoroughfare, bounded on either side by a double
row of trees.  These are a fashionable resort, and usually present a scene of gaiety and splendor.
The streets in the newer part of the town are regular, wide,
and well paved, but in the older portions they are irregular, cutting each other at all kinds of angles, and in many places so
narrow that carriages find difficulty in passing.
There are within the city several magnificent triumphal arches.
The Arc de l'Etoile, surpasses anything of the kind ever erected,
either in ancient or modern times. It is one hundred and sixtytwo feet high by one hundred and forty-seven feet long and
seventy feet broad. In the Place du Carrousel is another beautiful arch, designed after that of Septimius Severus, at Rome.
This arch is forty-five feet high by sixty feet long and twenty
feet broad. The top is crowned by a triumphal car drawn by
four bronze horses.




FRANCE.                      357
The public buildings of Paris equal, if not surpass, those of
any other city on the globe. Among the many elegant churches,
that of Notre Dame is the most celebrated.  It is situated on
the site formerly occupied by a Pagan temple, and afterwards
by a Christian basilica. The present building, which was erected
between the twelfth and fifteenth century, ranks among the
noblest specimens of Gothic architecture. It is built in the
shape of a cruciform, with an octagonal east and west end, surmounted by two towers and a new central spire, remarkable for
its delicate tracery.
Among the most celebrated palaces are the Tuileries, the
Palais Royal, and the Louvre. The Tuileries, situated on the
right bank of the Seine, have continued for centuries to be the
chief Parisian residence of the sovereigns.  The Palais Royal is
situated not far from the Tuileries.  It is surrounded by beautiful gardens, and much resorted to by the people of Paris. The
Louvre, situated east of the Tuileries, has ceased to be a state
residence, and is now occupied as the great national repository
of works of art.
A large sandy plain, near the Quai d' Orsay, in which reviews
and other military displays are held, is called the Champ de
Mars. Not far from it is the Ecole Militaire, which was founded
in 1752, and is now used as a military training school for infantry and cavalry.
The year 1867 witnessed, in Paris, a grand display of the
products of different nations, called the Paris Exposition.  The
grounds, situated on the Champ de Mars, cover an area of thirty-seven acres. The building is oval in form, and consists of
twelve circles around a common center, having an open central
garden. This exhibition was visited by the principal monarchs
of the world, and vast multitudes of people from all nations.
(See views of Paris and Paris Exposition.)
LYONS,
The second city of France, is situated at the junction of two
large rivers, the Saone, flowing from the north, and the Rhone,




358                     FRANCE.
flowing from the east. The city extends to the opposite banks
of both rivers, communication being maintained by a large number of handsome and commodious bridges. The streets, in a
large portion of the city, are narrow and irregular, and lined
with ungainly buildings, crowded together in the smallest possible space. Some portions of the town, however, are well built
with stately mansions, wide streets, and finely planted walks.
The public buildings are more remarkable for their antiquity,
than for the style of their architecture. Among the most interesting are the Cathedral, the Church of Notre Dame, the
Church of St. Irenveus, the Palais de Justice, and the Abbey of
Ainay.
As a manufacturing town it holds the first rank. Its silk
manufactures are perhaps the most important in the world. It
is admirably situated for commerce, and extensively engaged in
trade. The population in 1862 was three hundred and eighteen
thousand eight hundred and three. (See views of Lyons.)
VERSAILLES,
Situated ten miles south-west of Paris, is remarkable for the
elegance and regularity of its construction.  It is considered
one of the handsomest towns in Europe. It contains a number
of handsome public buildings, the most remarkable of which
are the Palace of Versailles, the Church of St. Louis, the Prefecture, and the Chancery.  The palace, built by Lous XIV., is
now used as a historical museum. From 1672 to 1790 it was
the residence of the kings of France.  Connected with the
palace are a chapel, a theatre, an orangery, large flower gardens, and a park, ornamented with numerous statues and fountains. The opening of the museum in 1837 did much to increase
the prosperity of the city. In 1852 the population was thirtyfive thousand three hundred and sixty-seven.  (See views of
Versailles.)




CHAPTER III.
SWITZERLAND.
Switzerland is a republic of central Europe, lying between
latitude 450 50' and 470 50' N., and longitude 6~ and 10~ 25'
E. It is bounded on the north by Baden, on the south by Italy,
Piedmont, and Savoy, on the north-east by Wurtemburg and
Bavaria, on the east by Tyrol, and on the west by France.
Greatest length of Switzerland from east to west, two hundred
and sixteen miles, from north to south, one hundred and forty
miles, area, fifteen thousand two hundred and sixty-one square
miles.
The scenery of Switzerland is on the grandest scale. The
inhabitants of level districts, accustomed only to the prairies or
wooded plains which surround them, can form but a faint idea of
the grandeur, the singularly beautiful natural scenery of the alpine
regions of Switzerland. Nature has an infinite variety of aspects among the Alps. Beautiful lakes are embosomed among
the mountains, the peaks of which tower far above the limits of
perpetual snow; the naked rock is covered with hardened masses
of glacier; immense glaciers glisten on the mountain sides; vast
quantities of ice and snow are hurled into immeasurable abysses,
and wild and picturesque valleys form the course of impetuous
streams and mountain torrents.
Switzerland is the most mountainous country of Europe. The
Jura mountains comprise several parallel ranges, which lie on
the north-western side of the republic. The Alps, crossing the
southern part of the country on the Italian frontier, cover over
one half of the country.
One of the most striking physical features of Switzerland are
glaciers, which are found here in greater numbers than in any
other country.  They exist in all latitudes, varying in hight




360                   SWITZERLAND.
according to the temperature of the country in which they are
found, but those of the Alps have been more clearly and satisfactorily investigated than of any other region.  They cover
an area of fifteen hundred square miles, and are frequently
from fifteen to twenty miles long, and three miles broad.  "In
elevated mountain valleys, glaciers are formed by the fall of
snow, which is increased in amount by immense quantities precipitated from the adjacent mountain peaks. This mass is subject to alternate freezing and thawing, until, in the progress of
centuries, the valley becomes filled with a, body of ice constituting the glacial formation." Glaciers have a gradual downward
motion, and are often found below the snow limit. The Lower
Grindelwald is five hundred, and the Aar fifteen hundred feet
below the snow line. They present the appearance of a frozen
torrent, frequently traversed by deep rents called crevasses.
The most important rivers of Switzerland owe their origin to
glaciers. The Rhone issues from the Rhone glacier on the west
side of Mount St. Gothard, between the mountains of Furka
and Grimsel, and the Hinter Rhine from the Rheinwald glacier.
Switzerland is divided into twenty-two cantons or states.
BERN
Is one of the three leading states of the Swiss confederation,
and celebrated above all others for the beauty and variety of its
scenery. It has some of the loftiest peaks of the Alps, and contains the romantic valleys of the Lauterbrunnen, Grindelwald,
Simmenthal, Gasternthal, and Kanderthal.  In the Lauterbrunnen valley is the White Lutschine, celebrated for its picturesque
beauty, and so confined, that, in winter, the sun does not appear
till noon. In this valley, also, is the Staubbach fall, one of the
highest and most beautiful in Europe.  It occurs in a small
stream of the same name, an affluent of the White Lutschine.
The amount of water precipitated is small, and the whole, in its
descent, is dashed noiselessly, by the mere resistance of the
opposing air, into spray, and ere long into a fine mist-like rain.
The hight of the fall is about eight hundred and sixty feet.'" It




SWITZERLAND.                    361
is neither mist nor water," says Byron, " but a something between both; its immense hight gives it a wave or curve-a
spreading here, or condensation there-wonderful and indescribable." Seen from the front, the Staubbach often presents the
appearance of a white semi-transparent lace veil, flitting to and
fro over the face of the rock, and contracting itself now and
then into folds and undulations, as of drapery. (See views of
the Staubbach.) From this fall, through the narrow valley of
the Lutschine, is offered a distant vista gleam of the stainless
Jungfrau, which towers far above the limits of perpetual snow,
having an altitude of thirteen thousand seven hundred and twenty
feet.  The Jungfrau signifies the "Maiden," or the "Virgin
mountain," and undoubtedly obtained its name from the purity
and dazzling brightness of the snow and ice with which it is
perpetually covered. This mountain is steep and precipitous,
and it is but recently that travelers have succeeded in reaching
its summit. (See views of the Jungfrau.)
Three miles north-east of the Jungfrau, is the Mouch, one of
the loftiest of the Alpine peaks of Switzerland, having an altitude of thirteen thousand and forty-four feet. (See views of the
Mouch.)
Two miles from Lake Thun the White Lutschine is joined by
the Black Lutschine. The road up the valley of the latter stream
leads to the valley of the Grindelwald and the Magic peak of
the Wetterhorn. The valley of Grindelwald is surrounded on
all sides by lofty and imposing mountain peaks, and is one of
the most fertile and picturesque Alpine districts in Switzerland.
It covers about fifty square miles, being about four miles wide
and twelve miles long. Two immense glaciers branch off from
the mass of snow and ice which clothe the Bernese Oberland,
and furnish the principal inducement to tourists to visit the valley. (See views of the Grindelwald glaciers.)
On the right of the Grindelwald valley is the Wetterhorn,
signifying "Peak of Tempest," one of the grandest and most
picturesque mountains of Switzerland. It belongs to the group
of the Bernese Oberland, and reaches an altitude, according to
various authorities, of from twelve thousand two hundred to




362                   SWITZERLAND.
fourteen thousand one hundred and five feet. The summit is
clothed with ice and snow, and is reached by a precipitous and
irregular foot-path. (See views of the Wetterhorn.)
The Simmenthal valley is watered by the Simmen river, which
has a course of thirty-five miles, and joins the Kander near
where the latter empties into Lake Thun. In the Simmenthal
valley the river flows through a deep, narrow, and romantic
gorge, and has a number of beautiful falls and cascades. (See
views of falls in the gorge of Simmen.) In this valley, also, is
found the Peak of Amertenhorn, unsurpassed by few mountains
of Switzerland in hight and grandeur. (See views.)
The Gastern, or Gasternthal valley, on the southern frontier
of the state of Bern, is drained by a small stream called the
Kander, which has a number of beautiful falls and cascades.
This valley has scarcely a rival in savage grandeur, having for
its background the great Tschingel glacier, which is between the
peaks of the Schlithorn and Sackhorn, both of which attain an
elevation of nine thousand feet. (See views in the Gasternthal
valley.) A foot-path extends from this valley over the Hochweyden Alps and Lotschen glacier, to the valley of Lotschen,
canton of Valais. The valley of Kanderthal is also drained by
the Kander river, and contains the peaks of Doldenhorn, Eschinensee, Birrenstock and Fissistock. (See views.)
Bern contains the lakes of Neufchatel, Bienne, Thun, and
Brienz, all of which are celebrated for the wildness and grandeur of their scenery.
The soil in the valleys of Bern is exceedingly rich, and the
mountains are covered with majestic forests of pine. The canton has mines of iron, copper, lead, and marble.
BEnRN,
The capital, is finely built on a peninsula in the river Aar,
which is here crossed by two substantial stone bridges. It has
a large and imposing cathedral, an observatory, a museum of
natural history, an arsenal, a public library, a mint, and manufactories of fire-arms, hats, paper, and leather. Population,
twenty-nine thousand and sixteen.




SWITZERLAND.                    363
INTERLAKEN
Is a village on the Aar, canton of Bern, consisting of a number of white-washed lodging-houses, and containing a subscription reading-room and library. It is a great summer resort.
(See view.)
GRISONS,
Next to Bern the largest canton of Switzerland, is in the
eastern part of that republic, and covers an area of two thousand nine hundred and seventy-five square miles.  Population in
1860, ninety-one thousand one hundred and seventy-seven.
The canton is divided into three great valley-districts, the
most important of which is the valley of the Rhine, occupying
nearly the whole of the western portion of the canton. The
valley or mountain pass of Albula extends across Mount Albula
from the valley of Bergun to the Upper Engadine, and from
the basin of the Rhine to that of the Inn. (See views in the
valley of Albula.) The most remarkable feature, however, in
connection with the surface of the Grisons, is the gorge of
Viamala, a deep mountain defile, four miles long, between Chur
and the Splugen. It is walled in by rocky precipices, sixteen
hundred feet high, which nearly overarch the gorge, frequently
approaching, at the top, within ten yards of each other, while
far below, in the depths of the chasm, the Hinter Rhine darts
like an arrow in its onward course. The walls run nearly parallel to each other, each indentation on one side corresponding
to the projection on the other. The lower portion of this gorge
was long deemed inaccessible, and had received the name of the
Lost Gulf; but a difficult and precipitous road has recently been
constructed about four hundred feet above the river, by means
of blasting and cutting. The road is protected by a canopy of
rocky projections and wooden roofing, from the rocks and stones
which are hurled from the hights above. It winds from one
side of the gorge to the other by means of three bridges, built
about four hundred feet above the stream. Yet, so narrow is
the chasm, that, during the flood of 1834, the river rose and




364                   SWITZERLAND.
washed away the upper bridge, and reached within a few feet of
the others. (See views of the Viamala.)
There are two hundred and forty glaciers in the Grisons, one
of which, Rheinwald, forms the source of the Hinter Rhine. In
the valleys of the Grisons are a number of villages, more noted
for their beautiful situations and grandeur of the scenery which
surrounds them, than for size and wealth. Among these may
be mentioned Schiersch, Grusch, Malix, Rhazuns, and Alvaschein.  The village of Fideris is in the Landquart valley, twelve
miles north-east of Chur. Klosters is on the Landquart, four
miles north-east of Fideris. (See views.)
GLARUS
Is a canton of Switzerland, between St. Gall, the Grisons,
Schwytz, and Uri, containing an area of two hundred and eighty
square miles. The chief river, Linth, having a course of twentyfive miles, and its affluents, enter Lake Wallenstatt. It flows
through a picturesque country, and on its banks is Glarus, the
capital of the canton, in the rear of which rises Glarnisch, a
steep and precipitous mountain, the peak of which is eight thousand nine hundred and twenty-five feet above the level of the
sea. (See views.) The culminating point of this canton, and
also of East Switzerland, is Mount Dodi, having an altitude
of eleven thousand eight hundred and eighty-seven feet. The
chief town is
GLARUS,
The capital, on the Linth, at the foot of Mount Glarnisch,
containing a hospital, free school, public library and readingroom, and manufactories of muslins, cottons, woolen cloths, etc.
Population of the city, four thousand and eighty-two.  (See
views.)
Population of the canton, thirty-three thousand three hundred
and sixty-three.
VALAIS
Is a canton in the south-eastern part of Switzerland, bounded
on the north by Vand and Bern, and on the south by Italy.




SWITZERLAND.                    365
Area, about two thousand and sixteen square miles; population
in 1860, ninety thousand seven hundred and ninety-two. It
forms a single long and deep valley, between the Bernese and
Pennine Alps, two of the loftiest mountain chains of Europe,
and is drained by the Rhone, which originates in the glacier of
Gallenstock, (see view) and enters Lake Geneva. This valley
has been described as an immense trough, seventy miles in length,
one and one-half miles in depth, and two miles wide at the bottom. The higher elevations are covered with the greatest of
Swiss glaciers, and the whole canton is exposed to impetuous
torrents and destructive avalanches.  In the north are the
Goimsel and Gemmi, and in the south the Great St. Bernard
and Simplon passes.
Two important peaks of this canton are Mont Rosa, having
an altitude of fifteen thousand two hundred and eight feet,
and Mount Cervin, having an altitude of fourteen thousand
seven hundred and seventy-one feet. The former is inferior in
hight only to Mount Blanc, of the Pennine Alps, from which it
is fifty miles distant. (See view of Mont Rosa.)
The cultivated portion of Valais comprises a strip of land
from one-half to three-fourths of a mile wide, on each side of
the Rhone.  Considerable quantities of corn are here produced.
A railroad ascends this valley as far as Sion. The chief towns
are Sion, the capital, Martigny, and Vispach.
The other cantons of Switzerland, not yet described, are
Aargau, Appenzell, Basel, Freyburg, Geneva, Lucerne, Neufchatel, St. Gall, Schaffhausen, Swytz, Soleure, Ticino, Thurgau, Unterwalden, Uri, Vaud, Zug, and Zurich.  The best cultivated are Basel, Aargau, Thurgan, Vaud, and Geneva.  The
chief productions are spelt, wheat, rye, barley, Turkish corn,
oats, and tobacco.
The chief cities are Geneva, Bern, Basel, Lausanne, Zurich,
St. Gall, Lucerne, Freyburg, Neufchatel, Schaffhausen, Soleure,
Lugano, Aarau, Glarus, and Appenzell.




366                   SWITZERLAND.
GENEVA,
The most populous city of Switzerland, and capital of a canton of its own name, occupies the slope of two hills, at the western end of Lake Geneva, where that body discharges the Blue
Rhone. The city is built on both sides of the river, which is
crossed by several bridges. The lower portion of the city is the
chief district of trade, and is irregularly and poorly built. The
upper portion, however, the seat of the aristocracy, contains a
large number of elegant hotels and private residences and villas.
The most important public buildings are the cathedral, town
house, casino, penitentiary, and Musee Rath, a tasty building
named after its founder.  The cathedral is a Gothic edifice,
flanked by three massive towers, and occupying a commanding:
situation on the highest ground in the city. Among the educational establishments may be mentioned the Calvin college and
academy.  Geneva has a museum of natural history, a botanic
garden, and is extensively engaged in the manufacture of watches,
and jewelry. It is surrounded on three sides by walls, and is
entered by three gates. Population twenty-nine thousand one
hundred and eight. (See views of Geneva.)
ST. GALL,
A city and capital of a canton of the same name, is eighteen
miles south-east of Constance, in a mountain valley, two thou —
sand one hundred and fifty feet above sea-level. The environs
of the city are beautiful, and contain many fine walks and promenades. It contains a cathedral, monastery, town house, post
office, three churches, a public square, a number of fountains,
and manufactories of linen, cotton, fine muslins, etc. Population in 1860, fourteen thousand five hundred and thirty-two.
(See views of St. Gall.)
APPENZELL,
An important city of Switzerland, and capital of Inner Rhodes,
in the canton of Appenzell, is six miles south of St. Gall. It
has a number of churches, a council house, an arsenal, baths,
and manufactories of linen. Population two thousand nine hundred and ten, chiefly Roman Catholics.. (See view of Appenzell.),




CHAPTER IV.
AUSTRIA, PRUSSIA, GERMANY, AND RUSSIA.
AUSTRIA.
Austria, next to Russia, is the largest province of Europe.
The inhabitants are of different races, speaking as many different languages. The general surface is mountainous, abounding
in beautiful and romantic scenery. The plains are not extensive, occupying less than one-fifth of the surface. The principal
valleys are found in Tyrol, Solsburg, Styria, and Illyria. The
loftiest mountains are in Tyrol, Styria, and Illyria.
VIENNA,
The capital and largest city of Austria, is situated on a
branch of the Danube, about two miles from the main stream.
It consists of the city proper and upwards of thirty suburbs. The
most important of the church edifices, are the Cathedral of St.
Stephen, a massive gothic structure three hundred and fifty feet
long, by two hundred and thirty-five deep, ninety feet high, and
built of hewn limestone; and the court parish church, founded by
Frederick the Fair, in 1330. It contains a beautiful monument
to the Archduchess, Christina, and in the chapel the hearts of
the imperial family are preserved. Among the palaces and government edifices are the imperial palace, the palaces of Archduke
Charles, Belvedere, one built by Prince Eugene, and those of
Count Schonborn, Prince Auersperg, etc. The chief government buildings are the national bank, mint, town house, and the
Imperial and Civil arsenals, in both of which are collections of
ancient armor. The monuments of the city are not numerous.
The finest are an equestrian and colossal statue of Joseph II.,
one of the late Emperor Francis I., the monument and statue
to the Virgin, and the marble statue of Theseus. (See views in
Vienna.)




368                     AUSTRIA.
LINZ,
A city of upper Austria, is fortified by a circle of thirty-two
forts, nine on the north side of the Danube, and twenty-three
on the south side. The city is well built, and has three suburbs,
larger than the city proper. The river is here crossed by a
wooden bridge two hundred and eighty yards in length. The
city contains several fine churches, a bank, theater, custom
house, and an old castle. (See views of Linz.)
TYROL,
A division of Austria, occupies the south-western portion of
that province. It is for the most part a mountainous region, being
crossed by three ranges of the Alps, the center range dividing
it into two parts. The summits of many of these mountains are
covered with perpetual snow, and glaciers to the number of
eighty, covering an area of one hundred and seventy square
miles, descend into the valleys. The scenery of Tyrol is second
only to Switzerland. The principal rivers are the Danube, Po,
and Rhine.  These rivers are fed by numerous streams and torrents from the glaciers and regions of perpetual snow. Brenaver, one of the culminating points of the mountains of Tyrol,
has an elevation of six thousand seven hundred and eighty-eight
feet above the sea. The road between Insprick and Brexen
crosses this mountain at an elevation of four thousand six hundred and fifty feet. (See views among the mountains of Tyrol.)
SALTZBURG,
A city of Tyrol, has a picturesque site at the base of two
precipitous hights.  The scenery around this city is scarcely
surpassed by the finest and most romantic parts of Switzerland.
The greater part of the town is built on the. left bank of the
Salza. In this part of the city is a lofty hight, crowned by
a magnificent ancient castle. The principal squares are Resideng and the Damplatz. Between these is an Italian Cathedral,
adjoining to which is the Archbishop's palace. In the same
vicinity is the collegiate church of St. Peter, and a cemetery
distinguished for its remarkable ancient tombs. The castle has




PRUSSIA.                      369
been sometime used for barracks. In one of the towers is preserved a part of the torturing apparatus employed on the protestants, who were here cruelly persecuted, and some of whom
suffered martyrdom. (See views of Saltzburg.)
BORMIO,
A town of Tyrol, Austria, is about twenty-nine miles from
the Adda, on which occur the ancient and celebrated salt baths
called Bagni di Bormio. (See views of Baths.)
PRUSSIA.
The kingdom of Prussia ranks as a leading power of Europe.
By its late victories over Austria, it has added to its territory,
Hanover, Holstein, Hesse-Cassel, Nassau, and several other
divisions. The surface is generally level, the mountains occuring only in the south and south-western parts of the country.
The soil is fertile and productive. Prussia lies in the basins of
the North and Baltic seas, and is drained by large rivers, the
most celebrated of which is the Rhine. Along this river the
scenery is mountainous and picturesque. The inhabitants are
mostly Germans, and are well educated and intelligent people.
All children are obliged by law to attend school until they are
fourteen years old.
BERLIN,
The capital, is, next to Vienna, the largest city of Central
Europe, and is remarkable for the regularity of its streets, the
size and beauty of its buildings, and for its institutions of science
and art.  It is finely located on both sides of the Spree, is
about ten miles in circumference, and comprises the city proper,
Cologne, Lewsenstadt, Friedrichstadt, Friedrichswerder, Neustadt, Friedrich Wilhelmstadt, and the suburbs of. Stralhau,
Spandau and Konigstadt, Oranienburg and Potsdam. Forty
bridges cross the Spree and its branches at this'place. The city
is enclosed by a wall sixteen feet high. One of the gates through
which the city is entered, is one of the most splendid in Europe.
24




370                      PRUSSIA.
Among the numerous public buildings are the royal palace and
castle, the palaces of the princes, the museum, arsenal, opera
house, and university. (See views in Berlin.)
COLOGNE,
A city of Prussia, situated on the Rhine, is one of the most
populous in the kingdom. It is connected with Deutz, on the
opposite side of the river, by a handsome double bridge. The
cathedral is the greatest object of interest in the town, and is
the best specimen of Gothic monuments in Europe. It was
begun in 1248, is five hundred and eleven feet in length, and two
hundred and thirty-one in breadth. The roof is supported by one
hundred columns, the center four of which are thirty feet in circumference. The cost of the completion of this structure is
estimated at seven hundred and fifty thousand pounds. This
part of the work was commenced in 1842. The city contains
eight chapels, a synagogue and twenty-seven churches. (See
views in Cologne.)
COBLENTZ,
A fortified city of Prussia, is situated on the Rhine, about
fifty miles from Cologne. The Rhine is here crossed by a bridge
of boats. The city is well and regularly built, and contains a
noble palace and several fine churches, the residences of several
families of the nobility, valuable collections of coins, minerals
and antiquities, and a town library. (See views in Coblentz.)
BACHARACH,
A walled town, is on the left bank of the Rhine, about twentythree miles from Coblentz. (See views.)
ANDERNACH
Is a town of Prussia, on the Rhine, about ten miles from
Coblentz. It has become distinguished for the production of
millstones and cement. (See views.)




GERMANY.                      371
GERMANY.
Germany comprises Bavaria, Saxony, Baden, Wurtemberg, a
number of smaller states, three free cities, and a part of Prussia
and Austria. The inhabitants are an industrious and intelligent
people. The free cities are Hamburg, Bremen, and Lubeck.
Many of the smaller towns are noted for remarkable historical
events, and others for their magnificent palaces, churches and
universities.
HAMBURG,
A commercial city of Germany, is situated on the river Elbe.
Within the city is a lake called the Inner Alster.  This is a
favorite place of resort for the inhabitants, and during some
seasons of the year the lake is covered with pleasure boats.
The canal and branches of the Alster river pass through the
city. In many places the buildings come to the waters edge,
and communications between the buildings are carried on by
means of boats. (See views of Hamburg.)
LIMBURG,
An ancient town of Germany, on the Lahn, has a hospital, a
Roman Catholic seminary, and a palace. (See views.)
WEILBURG,
On the Lahn, contains a castle and manufactories of paper.
The river is crossed by an iron bridge.  (See views.)
NEUBURG
Contains a theatre, museum, barracks, a church, a castle,
remains of ancient fortifications, and a royal institute. The river
Danube is here crossed by two bridges. (See views.)
CANNSTATT
Is in a beautiful and fertile valley of Wurtemburg.  Near the
town are a number of mineral springs.  It contains the royal
seats of Bellevue and Rosenstein. (See views.)




372                      RUSSIA.
NENHAUS
Contains a handsome palace of Count Czernin, and a Jesuit
college. (See views.)
BADEN BADEN,
A celebrated watering place, and summer resort for visitors
from all parts of Europe, is in Germany, in the valley of
Schwarzwald. Over the principal spring, a pump-house has
been erected, from which water is conveyed by numerous pipes
to different hotels for the accommodation of visitors. (See views.)
RUSSIA.
Russia is the largest empire in the world, embracing European
Russia, Siberia and Trans-caucasian Russia. Russian America
also belonged to this empire until 1867, when it was purchased
by the United States government. The surface is for the most
part, very level, the only mountainous section being north of the
Caucasus mountains. The government is an absolute monarchy.
The people are divided into four classes-the nobles, clergy,
merchants, and the recently emancipated serfs.
ST. PETERSBURG,
The capital, is situated on the river Neva, near its mouth.
It is the largest and most populous city of the empire, and in
the splendor of its public buildings, is surpassed by few cities.
The most distinguished of the ecclesiastical edifices is the cathedral of our Lady of Kezan. It is in the form of a Greek cross,
and cost upwards of twenty millions of dollars. The Winter
palace, probably the most magnificent in the world, is seven
hundred feet square, and during the residence of the emperor
within it, is inhabited by six thousand people. The city was
founded by Peter the Great, in 1703.  The little cottage in
which he lived, is in the city in a remarkable state of preservation.
MOSCOW,
Formerly the capital, and at present a famous city of Russia,
is about four hundred miles from St. Petersburg. The site of




RUSSIA.                      373
the city is on undulating ground. On the highest eminence, near
the center of the city, stands the Kremlin, which is of a triangular shape, surrounded by a wall sixty feet high, and nearly a
mile in circuit. Among the buildings of the Kremlin is the
famous Ivan Veliki, rising without ornament to the hight of two
hundred and nine feet, surmounted by a gilded dome, on which
is a cross. This tower consists of a number of stories, in each
of which is suspended a massive bell, one of which weighs sixtyfour tons. Another bell, weighing about one hundred and ninety tons, is on a pedestal of granite in the bottom of the tower.
The tower in which it was first suspended was burnt, and the
bell in falling was broken. Its hight is upwards of twenty-one
feet, its circumference twenty-two and a half feet, and its least
thickness three inches.  (See views in Moscow.)




CHAPTER V.
ITALY AND PAPAL STATES.
ITALY,
Formerly the center of the Roman Empire, comprises a number of islands in the Mediterranean sea, and a large peninsula,
between the latter body and the Adriatic sea. It lies between
latitude 470 and including Sicily, 36~ 41' 30" north, and longitude 6~ 35' and 18~ 35' east. Its greatest length from north
to south, is six hundred miles; from east to west, three hundred
miles; area, one hundred and seventeen thousand nine hundred
and fourteen square miles.
The Alps separate Italy from France, Switzerland, and Austria, and send ramifications over the northern part of the country. The Apennine mountain range winds through the entire
length of the peninsula from  north to south.  The valleys
between the mountains are extremely fertile, and well adapted
to cultivation. The Apennines contribute beauty and grandeur
to central Italy, which in the southern districts assumes a wilder
aspect.  In the vicinity of Mount Vesuvius and the city of
Naples, the scenery approaches almost a savage grandeur.  This
volcanic peak rises out of a fertile and luxuriant plain, three
thousand nine hundred and forty-eight feet above the sea. The
crater is fifteen hundred feet in diameter, and five hundred feet
deep. Around the base of Vesuvius are immense fields of hardened lava and scorise, which have been ejected from the volcano.
Its first recorded eruption occurred in A. D. 63, and in 79 the
cities of Herculaneum, Pompeii, and Stabike, were buried in lava
and ashes, which were emitted from this volcano. The site of
Herculaneum was discovered in 1713, but though extensively
excavated, only a small portion of the ancient theater is visible.
Pompeii, not having been buried in lava, but ashes, is much




ITALY.                       375
more easily excavated than Herculaneum, and a large number
of statues, urns, etc., here found, have been deposited in the
museum at Naples. After being buried nearly eighteen hundred years, these cities are gradually being removed of their
covering, and are found to be in a remarkable state of preservation. (See views of Herculaneum, Pompeii, and Vesuvius.)
Sicily is crossed by a mountain chain from east to west, known
first as Neptunian, and afterwards as Madonian mountains.
This chain so greatly resembles the Appenines, and the physical
character of the Strait of Messina is such as to give strength to
the assertion that Sicily formerly constituted a part of the mainland, from which it has been separated by some terrible convulsion of nature. The prevalence of earthquakes, and the frequency of volcanic eruptions, are facts that further support this
theory. Etna, Stromboli, and Lipari, are still subject to terrible eruptions. The former is an isolated peak, forming a perfect cone, which has a circumference at its base of eighty-seven
miles, and is one of the greatest curiosities of the world. It
has an altitude of ten thousand eight hundred and seventy-four
feet.  It is nearly encircled, except on the east, where it is bordered by the sea, by the Alcantara and Giaretta rivers. There
are about sixty recorded eruptions of Etna, the most remarkable of which are those of the years 1669, 1792, 1811, 1819,
and 1832.  Numerous new vents were formed near the summit
in 1832, from which issued sheets of flame, and immense quantities of ashes and cinders.  In 1669, one of these burning
streams of molten matter overtopped the ramparts of Catania,
sixty feet in hight, and fell in a fiery cascade into the city, a
part of which it destroyed. It however, ultimately cooled, and
the solid lava may still be seen curling over the top of the rampart, like a cascade in the act of falling. (See view.) In the
northern part of Italy are the great plains of Lombardy, which
are drained by the river Po.
The rivers of Italy, owing chiefly to the narrowness of the
country, are generally small, sometimes obstructed with rapids,
and navigable only for small boats. The Po is much the largest,
and rises in Mount Piso.  Among the others may be mentioned




376                      ITALY.
Adige, Brenta, Piave, Tagliamento, Aterno, Saugro, Metauro,
Ofanto, Arno, and Tiber. The chief lakes are Como, Garda,
Maggiore, Lugano, Iseo, and a part of Geneva. The Como
lake might properly be regarded as an expansion of the Adda
river, which enters it at the foot of the Rhetian Alps, and flows
from it at Lecco. It is environed on the south by mountains
from one thousand to thirteen hundred feet in hight, and is
separated into its two branches of Como and Lecco by a peninsular projection known as Bellagio. It is thirty-five miles long,
and three miles wide, and is surrounded by the richest of Italian
scenery. The water abounds with fish, and the lake is exposed
to sudden storms, which greatly impede water communication.
On the shore are a number of villas, among which may be mentioned Villa Lenno, on the supposed site of Pliny's villa, and
Villa d' Este, once the residence of Caroline, Queen of England.
(See views of Como.)
The climate of Italy is varied. In the north flourishes vegetation peculiar to the temperate zone, while in the south it
reaches the richness and luxuriance of that in tropical countries.
The singular clearness of the atmosphere sets off the landscape
beauties of Italy with brilliant effect, giving a brightness of color,
and distinctness of outline rarely known in other countries.
The lakes in the basin of the river Po, and the lagoons and
marshes of Venice are frequently frozen in winter, but the climate of Calabria, Sicily, and the adjacent islands, is such as to
promote the vegetation of the tropical zone. Silk is extensively
manufactured in the northern provinces, and sugar-cane flourishes in Sicily. Corn is produced in large quantities, as is also
cotton, hemp, flax, oil, rice, olives, wine, and fruits.
Florence is the capital of Italy, and Naples, Milan, Turin,
Venice, Geneva, Leghorn, and Verona are the most important
towns.
FLORENCE
Is an important city and capital of Italy, in the division of
Tuscany, chiefly on the northern bank of the Arno river. The
river is here spanned by four bridges, the finest of which,rPonte




ITALY.                      377
del la Santa Trinita, remarkable for its light and graceful architecture, is constructed of marble, has three'arches, and is adorned
with statues. The general appearance of Florence is neat and
prepossessing. The streets, though narrow, are clean, and are
lined with public and private edifices of every description and
style.  There are a great many noble and elegant palaces,
among which the Pitti palace, the former residence of Luca Pitti,
and now of the grand duke, holds a conspicuous place. (See
view.) The most important building of Florence is the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Flore, an imposing structure, surmounted by a dome, the largest in the world. The walls are of brick,
and are incrusted with marble. Among the other buildings may
be mentioned the church of Santa Croce, containing the ashes
of Michael Angelo, Galileo, and other celebrated men, the church
of St. John, now used as a city baptistery, the Biblioteca Marucelliana, Magliabecchian, and Laurentian libraries, the latter of
which occupies a long and lofty gallery, with windows of stained
glass. Florence is surrounded by a wall, four and one-fourth
miles in circuit, and is entered by seven gates. Population in
1862, one hundred and fourteen thousand three hundred and
sixty-three.
NAPLES,
Formerly the capital of the state of Naples, and at present
capital of Napoli, is the most populous city of Italy. It is near
the north-eastern extremity of the Bay of Naples, at the base of
Mount Vesuvius, one hundred and eighteen miles south-east of
Rome. Opposite Vesuvius, on the east, rises the peak of Pausilippo, and in the background recede the ramifications of the
Apennines.  The city itself has scarcely a rival in beauty of
location and grandeur of surrounding scenery. The streets are
paved with blocks of hardened lava, and, with,but few exceptions, are straight and clean. The most important building is
a fine Gothic cathedral, occupying the site of a Temple of Apollo,
and containing relics of St. Januarius. The royal palace is an
immense building, three stories high, each of which is composed
of a different order of architecture. Its original design has not
been carried out, but it is richly furnished, and adorned with




378                      ITALY.
paintings, statues, etc. (See views.) The other buildings worthy
of note are the Palace of Capo di Monte, the Palazzo Degli
Studij Publici, a building of the seventeenth century, the churchs
Dei Santi Apostoli, St. Martin, St. Philip de Neri, Del Parto,
and San Severoe, and royal library.  The chief manufactures
are silk, lace, gloves, carriages, soap, violins and other musical
instruments, hats, woollen, linen, etc. Population, four hundred and eighteen thousand nine hundred and sixty-eight.
TURIN,
One of the most important cities of Italy, and capital of Piedmont, is on a rich plain among the Alps, on the right bank of
the river Po, at the mouth of the Dora Susina, eighty miles
south-west of Milan. The most important building is the cathedral, the interior of which is richly ornamented with frescoes and
paintings, and containing the remarkable chapel of Santo Sudario. Among the other ecclesiastical buildings may be mentioned
the churches of San Filippo Neri, Santa Christina, Corpus
Christi, Sant'Andrea, and San Rocco. Turin has a university,
an Episcopal seminary, a royal military academy, and two colleges. Population in 1862, one hundred and eighty thousand
five hundred and twenty.
MILAN,
Third city in size in Italy, is on a fertile plain, between the
basins of the Ticino and Adda, eighty miles north-east of Turin,
and one hundred and seventy-five miles west of Venice. The
city is encircled by a wall, and is entered through eleven gates.
The buildings are generally of brick, and frequently have elegant exteriors.
The chief object of interest, however, of Milan, is the cathedral, a massive structure, which ranks in size and beauty of
architecture among the finest buildings of the world. It is in a
square in the heart of the city, called Piazza del Duomo, and is
four hundred and ninety feet long, two hundred and ninetyeight feet wide, and three hundred and fifty-five feet high to the
apex of the dome, above which rises an obelisk spire. Around




ITALY.                    379
the roof and sides of the building are four thousand six hundred
niches, of which four thousand are occupied by statues. The
interior is as gorgeous as the exterior, almost overcoming the
beholder, who gazes in rapt wonder at the splendor and magnificence of the countless objects which surround him. The floor
is formed of marble of various colors, the arches of the naves are
supported by fifty immense pillars, the walls are adorned with
the work of the most renowned painters, and the windows with
groups of figures of a size probably unequaled in the world.
(See views of Milan cathedral.) Other important buildings are
the churches of Sant' Ambrogio, Sant' Eustorgio, and Santa
Maria della Passione.  Milan has a royal academy of arts and
sciences, a normal school, a military and geographical institute,
and a military, orphan, and several foundling asylums. Population in 1862, one hundred and ninety-six thousand three hundred and eighty.
VENICE,
A city of Italy, and semi-capital of the Lombardo-Venetian
kingdom, is situated in the lagoons of Venice, a swampy district
resembling a vast lake, which is separated from the Adriatic by
a narrow strip of land, and connected with the main land by a
bridge of two hundred and twenty-two arches, and two miles
long. Venice was formerly the greatest commercial city in the
world. Its site is formed by eighty small islands, separated by
one hundred and fifty canals, and united by three hundred and
sixty bridges. The most important buildings are the Palazzo di
San Marco, and the church of San Marco.  The latter may
justly be regarded as one of the grandest and most interesting
buildings in Christendom. It is of the Byzantine style, partly
of Gothic and partly of the Italian order, and is constructed in
the form of a Greek cross. It is flanked by five domes, the central one being ninety feet high, and the others each eighty feet.
The main front has five hundred columns of black, white, and
veined marble, and terminates in pointed arches supporting
crosses, pinacles, and spires.  " Over the portal of this magnificent temple were replaced, in 1815, the four celebrated bronze




380                     ITALY.
horses which were found at Corinth, and successively adorned
Athens, Rome, Constantinople, Venice, and Paris." Among
the other buildings may be mentioned the churches of Santa
Maria Gloriosa dei Frari, La Madonna dell'Orto, San Francisco, Santa Maria della Salute, and San Giovannie Paolo.
Venice has a lyceum, marine college, normal high school, and
an academy and school of the fine arts. Population one hundred and eighteen thousand one hundred and seventy-two.
VERONA
Is a city of Italy, government of Venice, on the Adige,
twenty miles east of Venice. The city was founded by the Romans in the fourth century before the Christian era, and has still
relics of Roman architecture. The most important of these antiquities is the celebrated ampitheatre, the most perfect of its
kind, and the only one in which public exhibitions are still held.
(See view.)  The principal buildings are the churches of St.
Zeno, St. Anastasia, and St. George. The city has a botanic
garden, a philharmonic academy, two valuable libraries, and
manufactures of cottons and woollens, and an extensive trade in
silk and rural produce. Population fifty-nine thousand one hundred and sixty-nine.
POZZUOLI,
Is an important town of Naples, seven miles south-west of the
city of Naples. Population eight thousand four hundred. Its
environs were formerly crowded with villas of wealthy Romans,
and contain the ruins of an amphitheatre. (See view.)
CAPUA
Is a fortified city of Italy, twenty miles north of Naples. It
was built by the Lombards in 855, out of the ruins of ancient
Capua, the remains of which, about two miles east, include a
gate, and the ruins of a large amphitheatre. The only important building in the town is the cathedral. Population eight thousand one hundred. (See view.)




PAPAL STATES.                  381
PAPAL STATES.
The territory belonging to the Papal States formerly occupied
Central Italy, stretching from the Mediterranean to the Adriatic,
and from Naples to the river Po. It has recently been greatly
reduced by the incursions of Italy, and, at present, comprises
only the states of Roma et Comarca, Velletri, Viterbo, Civita
Vecchia, and Frosinone.
The country, though generally rugged and hilly, has few
mountains. The Pontine Marshes is the name of a swampy
tract of land, twenty-five miles long, which lie along the Mediterranean sea, between Cisterna and Terracina.  During the
time of the Romans, these marshes were intersected by a number of canals, which rendered a considerable portion of them
dry; but they have recently been neglected, and allowed to
return to their former condition. The Appian Way, formed by
the Romans, is the present road from Rome to Naples.
The chief river, the Tiber, originating in the Tuscan Apennines, has a course of one hundred and eighty-five miles, and
enters the Mediterranean through two mouths, seventeen miles
below Rome. In the spring, the river, generally sluggish, is
rapid, and brings down with it a yellowish mud, which caused
it to be called "Yellow Tiber."  It is three hundred feet wide
at Rome.
The Papal States enjoy one of the finest climates in the world.
The intense heat of summer is greatly mitigated by refreshing
sea-breezes, which originate in the Mediterranean. The soil is
rich, and is generally well cultivated.
ANCIENT ROME.
This city was the capital of ancient Italy, and was built on
the left bank of the Tiber. It was founded by Romulus, and
laid out in the form of a square. The city became rapidly
extended under the direction of the early Roman Kings, who
founded buildings still famous in history, and embellished the




382                    PAPAL STATES.
city with works of utility and art. In the reign of Servius
Tullius, the city had covered the famous seven hills-Palatine,
Capitoline, Quirinal, Caelian, Aventine, Viminal, and Esquilline.
The city being laid in ashes by the Gauls in 390, B. C., was
hastily rebuilt, with little regard to regularity or beauty. After
the wars with Carthage, numerous buildings of great architectural pretentions were planned and executed, while the narrow
and filthy streets were left unmolested. In the reign of Nero
the city was burned a second time, to gratify, it is said by
various authorities, the curiosity of the reigning prince. Be
that as it may, it is certain that when Rome revived from her
ashes, she presented an entirely different aspect than before.
The city was entirely remodeled, the hight of the houses being
restricted, and the streets widened and straightened. In the
reign of Vespasian, the city was thirteen miles in circumference,
and had a population of over two millions. The wall built by
Romulus enclosed merely the Palatine, and was pierced by three
gates. That of Servius Tullius was not continuous, but consisted of fortifications drawn across the intervening valleys, and
was pierced by thirty-seven gates. The walls of Aurelian, with
the exception of the portions beyond the Tiber, are the same as
those that surround the modern city.
The principal public place in the city was the Forum, an
oblong open space, where were held the assemblies of the people.
It was surrounded with arched porticos, within which were spacious halls, where courts of justice might sit on private affairs.
The Campus Martius, or Field of Mars, was a large plain without the city, where was practiced the use of arms, athletic exercises, and sports. It was adorned with statues of famous men,
and triumphal arches, columns and porticos, and other magnificent structures.' One of the most interesting buildings of
Ancient Rome is the Flavian Amphitheatre, or Colliseum, commenced by Vespasian, and completed by his son Titus. It is
probably the largest structure of its kind, and is fortunately,
also, the best preserved. It is of an elliptical form, is six hundred and twenty feet long, five hundred and thirteen feet broad,
and was capacious enough to seat eighty-seven thousand persons.




PAPAL STATES.                   383
Five thousand beasts were slain in the arena, on the occasion of
the dedication, and the games and sports of the amphitheatre
lasted one hundred days.  " The exterior is about one hundred
and sixty feet in hight, and consists of three rows of columns,
doric, ionic and corinthian, and, above all, a row of corinthian
pilasters." (See views of Amphitheatre.)
The celebrated Via Sacra was the chief street of the city,
remains of which can still be seen in the Forum of Modern
Rome.  According to various authorities, the city contained
four hundred temples, of which the Feretrian Jupiter was the
oldest, having been founded by Romulus, and restored by Augustus. There was, also, a number of elegant palaces, the most
noted of which was the Palatium, formerly the residence of the
orator Hortensus, and afterward the seat of the imperial family.
Two palaces, exceeding the latter in beauty, were built by Nero,
one of which covered the whole of Palatine Hill and a portion
of Esquilline, and was burned down during the great fire.
MODERN ROME
Occupies a sandy plain on both sides of the Tiber, and is
divided by that stream into two unequal parts. The wall enclosing the city is twelve miles in circuit, and is pierced by
sixteen gates. About one-half of the section enclosed is occupied by pleasure grounds, gardens, and vineyards, which lie
south of the capitol. The most densely populated, as well as
the business part, is on the site of the ancient Field of Mars.
A street about one mile long, called the Corso, extends from
Piazza del Popolo, the northern entrance, through the heart of
the city, to the Plazza di Venezia, at the foot of the capitol.
The houses on the Corso are regular and substantial, and consist of elegant churches and palaces, the Ghigi, Borghese and
Ruspoli being found among the latter.
By far the finest building of Rome, and the most stupendous
ever constructed, is the Cathedral, or Church of St. Peters,
which is on the right bank of the Tiber, between the Vatican
and Janiculum. The building is erected in the form of a Greek
cross, and is approached through a richly ornamented piazza.




384                  PAPAL STATES.
On either side of the latter, the buildings are hid from view by
a magnificent colonnade, forming two semi-circular porticos of
two hundred and eighty-four columns. On the entablement of
the columns are one hundred and ninety-two statues of saints,
each eleven feet high. The dome, rising four hundred and fiftyeight feet above the ground, is supported by four immense piers,
and may justly be regarded as the most astonishing and perfect
work of architecture ever submitted to the gaze of an admiring
world. Within the cathedral everything is gorgeous beyond
description. The walls are six hundred and seven feet long, and
four hundred and fifty-eight feet wide. The Baldacchino, a
splendid bronze canopy, under the dome, and immediately over
the high altar, is one hundred and twenty feet above the floor.
The interior of the dome is adorned with magnificent mosaic
paintings. This truly wonderful building was produced by the
genius of Bramante, Raphael, and Michael Angelo, and cost,
with all of its embellishments, from sixty to' eighty millions of
dollars. (See views of St. Peter's.)
Among other ecclesiastical structures of Rome, may be mentioned the Santa Crose, richer in relics of ancient days, than in
architecture. It is supposed to possess a portion of the cross of
our Savior, and has mixed with its foundation earth brought
from Jerusalem. St. John Lateran, regarded as mother church
of the " Eternal City," occupies an isolated spot near the south
wall, and is the place where the popes were formerly crowned.
Among the other churches may be numbered Santa Maria Maggiore, Santa Agnese, St. Agostino, St. Antonio Abate, San
Bonosa, and Santa Maria sopra Minerva.'Among the many palaces of Rome the Vatican, occupying a
hill of the same name, in point of architecture and matter of
history, is the most deserving of attention. It is regarded by
various writers, as having been founded in the reign of Constantine, and is at present the seat of the Romish Popes. They first
took possession of it in 1377, and from that period continued to
embellish it till the time of the Pontificate of Alexander VI. It
was by him renovated on a grander scale, and finished in nearly
its present style. It covers a large square, and consists of an




PAPAL STATES.                   385
irregular pile of buildings, the entire mass being one thousand
one hundred and fifty-one feet long, and seven hundred and sixtyseven feet wide. This great building has twenty courts, and
four thousand four hundred and twenty-two apartments. (See
views of the Vatican.)
The other palaces deserving notice are the Piazza del Campidoglio, on the summit of the capitol, in the piazza of which is a
bronze equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius Antonius; the Capitoline museum; and the Conservatori.
Among the educational establishments of Rome, the university
is the most important. The school was founded by Leo X.; has
forty-two professors, and is attended by one thousand students.
There is also a Roman college, under the direction of the Jesuits,
and twenty other colleges, three of which are English, Irish, and
Scotch institutions.
Rome has numerous hospitals and charitable institutions, and
is well supplied with theatres, museums, and enclosures for horse
races and other public amusements. The manufactures are of
little importance, consisting of woollen, silk fabrics, hats, gloves,
etc. Population in 1863, two hundred and one thousand one
hundred and sixty-one, including foreigners and strangers.




CHAPTER VI.
CHINA AND JAPAN.
China is a vast empire of Asia, stretching from 18~ 20' to
540 north latitude, and from 72~ to 134~ west longitude. Its
greatest length from north to south is one thousand four hundred and seventy-four miles; from east to west, one thousand
three hundred and fifty-five miles; area, four million seven hundred thousand square miles.
The outline of the country is very irregular. On the north
of China is Asiatic Russia, from which it is nearly separated by
the Altai mountain range and the Amoor river; on the south
and south-west is Hindoostan,-separated by the Himalaya
mountains —Birmah, and Tonquin; on the south-east and east
are the China, Yellow, and Japan Seas; and on the west is
Turkestan.
China is one of the most mountainous regions on the globe.
All of the great mountain chains of Asia either intersect or
bound the country. Owing to the rigid exclusion of foreigners,
and the natural and artificial barriers which guard the frontier,
the interior of China has been but imperfectly explored. The
Himalaya mountains, the loftiest range in the world, lie in the
south-western part of the empire, on the northern frontier of
Hindoostan, and attain their greatest elevation with Mount Everest, the culminating point of the globe, at an altitude of twenty-nine thousand one hundred feet. The Himalaya mountains
are continued to the sea by the Nanling range, which forms the
water-shed between the Yang tse Kiang and Hong Kiang rivers.
The Kuen Lun and Peling mountains constitute a grand chain
extending through the central part of southern China. North
of this chain branches off an irregular range called the Khin
Gau mountains, which terminate in Siberia, at the northern extremity of the Channel of Tartary. The Altai mountains, after




CHINA AND JAPAN.                  387
forming a portion of the boundary line between Russia and
China, branch off in a north-easterly direction through the
former empire, and extend to the north-eastern extremity of
Siberia.
The Great Wall of China, perhaps the greatest monument of
human industry and skill in existence, forms a barrier between
Mongolia and China for about fifteen hundred miles. It was
begun in 214 B. C., and completed in 204 B. C., and employed
in its construction several millions of men at one time. Its
design was to protect the country from the incursions of the
Tartars from the north. It is twenty feet high, and is carried
in a single instance over a mountain having an altitude of one
mile. It is about twenty feet thick, and throughout its whole
extent supports towers at regular intervals from each other,
which were occupied by the archers and soldiers. " It has been
estimated that the materials employed in this immense fortification would be sufficient for constructing a wall six feet high and
two feet thick, twice around the world."
South of the Altai are the Thian Shan mountains, between
which and the Kuen Lun range is the Great Desert of Gobi.
It covers an area of about five hundred thousand square miles,
and is covered with shingly gravel and fields of drifting sand.
In the central part it is two thousand four hundred feet high;
and at the great wall it has a hight of five thousand eight hundred feet; average height four thousand feet. The table land
of Thibet, having an average elevation of eleven thousand feet,
lies between the Kuen Lun and Himalaya ranges, and is traversed in every direction by the ramifications of these mountains.
The qhief rivers of China are the Yang tse Kiang and Hoang
Ho. The former rises on the southern slope of the Kuen Lun
mountains, and has a course of about two thousand seven hundred miles; the latter, rising among the Peling mountains, has
a course of two thousand miles, and both enter the Yellow Sea.
The Chinese belong to the Mongolian, or yellow race. They
are generally low in stature, have black hair, thick lips, flat




388                 CHINA AND JAPAN.
nose, expanded at the nostrils, and are generally of a dark complexion.  The smallness of the hands and feet of the males,
reaches almost a deformity with the females.  The good qualities of a portion of the population, who are not debased by
foreign intercourse, are counterbalanced by the immorality and
vice of the majority of the people, who practice lying, deceit,
treachery, and nameless abominations. Population of the empire, four hundred and seventy-seven millions.
The chief cities are Pekin, Canton, Soo-chow, Hang-Chow,
Fuh-Chow, Amoy, and Shanghai.
CANTON,
The great emporium city of China, is on the left bank of the
Canton river, seventy miles from the sea.  It is very irregularly built, the streets being narrow and crooked, and averaging about eight feet in width.  Canton has upwards of one
hundred and twenty temples, fourteen high schools, and thirty
colleges.  Manufacturing is also extensively carried on.  The
poorer portions of the people live in mud huts, which line
the canal, and one apartment is often crowded with from fifteen to twenty persons.  The wealthy class reside in elegant
and richly furnished houses. No wheeled carriages are used in
the streets of Canton. The nobles and officers are borne by
their attendants in sedan chairs, often taking up the whole of
the walk, to the great annoyance of the foot passengers.  The
city is surrounded by a wall about seven miles in circuit, and is
entered through twelve gates. Population, one million. (See
views of Canton.)
MACAO
Is a city on the island of Macao, at the entrance of the Canton river, having a population of forty thousand.  The harbor
forms a semi-circle, around which is built the town, consisting
chiefly of an intermingling of European and Chinese residences.
The harbor is defended by six forts. The principal buildings
are a number of Chinese temples, the church of St. Joseph and
college of St. Joseph, a royal grammar school, and a female
orphan asylum.  (See views of Macao.)




CHINA AND JAPAN.                  389
THE EMPIRE OF JAPAN.
The several islands which comprise this empire are east of
Asia, and have an area of one hundred and sixty thousand
square miles. The surface is uneven and broken, rising in places
to mountains of considerable elevation.  The highest peak is
about twelve thousand feet high. It was formerly a burning
volcano, but now is a snow-capped mountain.
YEDDO,
The seat of the military emperor, and capital of the empire,
has a population of two millions. It is surrounded by a trench,
and contains a fortified castle, large temples and numerous public
buildings.
MIAKO,
The ecclesiastical capital, is situated on a plain surrounded
by mountains. It contains a strong citadel, a number of temples, in one of which is suspended the largest bell in the world.
It is eighteen feet high, and weighs about one thousand tons.
The population of the city is about five hundred thousand.
SIMONOSEKI
Is a small town and harbor of Japan, on the strait of Kioo
Sioo, on Niphon Island. The site of the town is a plain partially surrounded by mountains.  (See views of Somonoseki.)
NAGASAKI,
A foreign settlement, principal seaport, and commercial city
of Japan, stands on a hill-side, and is regularly built. The
harbor is about one mile in width and seven in length. Before
the treaty which was recently concluded between the Japanese
and the United States, this was the only port open to foreign
commerce. The chief edifices in the town are the palaces of the
nobility, the arsenal, theatres, and numerous temples, which are
enclosed in gardens, forming a place of public resort for the
people.




CHAPTER VII.
HISTORICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE SKETCH
OF
PALESTINE AND ADJACENT COUNTRIES.
The name Palestine or Palestina was at first applied to a
small tract of country on the south-eastern shore of the Mediterranean sea. It received this name from the Philistines who
settled it. The whole country inhabited by the Jews, God's
chosen people, soon became known by this name, and, at the
present time, it is called Palestine almost exclusively. This
country, in ancient times, was also designated by a variety of
other names, among which are the following:  Canaan, so called
from the fourth son of Ham, because it was first settled by descendants from his eleven sons; 1Holy Land, because it was
inhabited by the Jews, who were the chosen people of God, and
because it was the scene of the deeds, sufferings, and final
triumph of the Savior; Land of God, because, under the Mosaic
dispensation, God was considered as the Supreme Ruler of the
land; Land of Promise, because God promised to Abraham
that it should be peopled and owned by his posterity; Land of
Israel, because the Israelites, descendants of Jacob or Israel,
inhabited it; and Land of Judah or Judea, because the tribe of
Judah was the largest of the Israelitish tribes.
Palestine is bounded on the "' north by Syria, east by Syria
and Arabia Deserta, south by Arabia Petraea, and west by the
Mediterranean sea."  When first occupied by the twelve tribes
of Israel, the country was divided between them by lot. Onehalf of the tribe of Manasseh, and the tribes of Gad and Reuben,
settled on the east of the river Jordan; the remaining nine
tribes and the half tribe of Manasseh settled between Jordan and
the Mediterranean sea. In the time of Christ, the country was




PALESTINE AND ADJACENT COUNTRIES.          391
divided into provinces. Judea occupied the southern part of
Palestine east of the Jordan, and included the tribes of Judah,
Simeon, Benjamin, and Dan; the name of Samaria was applied
to the central part of the country, including the tribe of Ephraim
and the half tribe of Manasseh; the province north of Samaria,
including the tribes of Issachar, Zebulon, Asher, and Naphtali,
was called Galilee; and the province of Perea was west of the
Jordan. The country is about one hundred and eighty miles in
length, and in width ranges from forty to ninety miles, being
widest at the south.
In the time of Christ, Palestine belonged to the Roman empire. It was taken from them in the seventh century by the
Mohammedans, who held it until 1099. From that time until
1291, the Crusaders were in possession of the country; from
1291 until 1517, the Egyptians; and since that time the Turkish government has held- it.
The land is fertile and productive. Fig, pomegranate, olive,
sycamore, palm, and oleander trees abound.  The land is now
the same as it was in the time of the prophets and apostles, but
almost barren on account of neglect. The natural physical condition of the country is the same. "' The hills still stand round
about Jerusalem as they stood in the days of David and of Solomon. The dew falls in Hermon; the cedars grow in Lebanon,
and Kishon,'that ancient river,' (Judges, v:21,) still draws its
stream from Tabor as in the times of old."  "' The Sea of Galilee still presents the same natural accompaniments; the fig tree
springs up by the wayside (See views of Fig trees); the sycamore spreads its branches, and the vines and olives still climb
the sides of the mountains. The desolation which covered the
cities of the plain is not less striking at the present hour than
when Moses, with an inspired pen, recorded the judgment of
God. The swellings of the Jordan are not less regular in their
rise than when the Hebrews first approached its banks; and he
who goes down from Jerusalem to Jericho, still incurs the greatest hazard of falling among thieves.  There is, in fact, in the
scenery and manners of this ancient land a perpetuity that




392                  PALESTINE AND
accords well with the everlasting import of its historical records,
and which enables us to identify, with the utmost readiness, the
local imagery of every great transaction."
MOUNTAINS.
Palestine is a very mountainous country. Its principal mountains are Lebanon, Hermon, Tabor, Carmel, Little Hermon,
Gilboa, Ebal and Gerizin, Mountains of Ephraim, Mountains
of Judah and Mountains of Jerusalem.
LEBANON.
The mountains of Lebanon are north of Palestine, in Syria.
They consist of two principal ranges running parallel with the
coast. The range nearer the sea is called Lebanon, the other
Anti-Lebanon. They are divided by an extensive valley called
Coele-Syria, or "the valley of Lebanon." The tops of the mountains are perpetually covered with snow, and, either on account
of this, or from the fact that the limestone of which they are
composed is white, they have received the name of Lebanon,
which, in Hebrew, means the " White Mountains."  As the snow
is not in very large quantities, however, it is probably the white
limestone which has given the name to the mountain. (See view
No. 94.) These mountains are famous in sacred history for their
lofty cedars.  (See views of Cedars of Lebanon.)  The celebrated temple of Solomon on Mount Moriah in Jerusalem was
built chiefly of cedar of Lebanon. There are not at present
many cedars found in Lebanon except in a space about three
quarters of a mile in circumference at the base of one mountain.
HERMON.
This mountain forms the southern extremity of the anti-Lebanon range. It is also called Sion, Shenir, Sirion, and Baalhermon. It is about ten thousand feet above the level of the
sea. The "' tower of Lebanon, which looketh toward Damascus," mentioned in Canticles vii:4, is supposed by some commentators to refer to Hermon, as it is the most lofty and
imposing peak of the range. (See views of Mount Hermon.)




ADJACENT COUNTRIES.                 393
TABOR.
Mount Tabor is situated in the north-eastern extremity of the
plain of Esdraelon, about six miles south-east of Nazareth, and
fifty north-east of Jerusalem. In shape, it resembles a cone.
It is about one thousand feet high, and may be ascended by an
ancient path to the summit. The mountain is formed of limestone, and its sides are very nearly covered with trees and
bushes.  By some, this mountain is supposed to be the one upon
which the Savior was transfigured; but this supposition has been
proven groundless by very good evidence.
CARMEL.
This mountain, the highest peak of a range of the same name,
is much renowned in Jewish history.  The range of mountains
extends from the plain of Esdrselon to the coast of the Mediterranean, south of the bay of Acre, a distance of five or six
miles. The mountain, in shape resembling a flattened cone, is
from fifteen hundred to two thousand feet above the level of the
Mediterranean sea.  (See view of Mount Carmel, No. 90.)  Its
soil in the time of the prophets was exceedingly fertile and productive, from which fact it derived its name Carmel, which
signifies " a fruitful field," or " The Garden of God."  It has
now, in accordance with the prediction of the-prophet (Amos
i:2), lost a great deal of its former productiveness.  This mountain is famous in Biblical history as being the place where Elijah
in the presence of the king and people of Israel, confounded
the four hundred and fifty prophets of Baal, and proved that
theLord was God.  (1 KIings, xviii:17-41.)  During the eighteenth century, Mount Carmel was the resort of many christian
devotees, and an order of monks called Carmelites, established
a convent there. This convent was destroyed in 1799, after the
retreat of the French army, by the Arabs, who used it during
the siege of Acre, as a hospital for their sick and wounded
soldiers.  (See view of the convent, No. 23.)
LITTLE!HERMON
Is a short range of mountains in the southern part of Galilee,
in the tribe of Issachar, about eight miles south of Mount
Tabor, and five miles north of Gilboa.




394                 PALESTINE AND
GILBOA.
Mount Gilboa is situated in the south-eastern part of Galilee,
in the tribe of Issachar. This mountain is famous as the scene
of the battle between the armies of Saul and the Philistines,
where occurred the death of Jonathan, and the suicide of Saul,
as recorded in the last chapter of 1 Samuel. The lamentation
of David after this event (2 Samuel, i:19-27) is one of his most
touching productions.
MOUNTS EBAL AND GERIZIM
Are in Samaria, in the tribe of Ephraim, one on the northeast, and the other on the south-east of the city of Shechem.
From these mountains the blessings and curses of the law were
declared to the Israelites. (Deuteronomy xxvii, 11-26; Joshua
viii:30-35.) In accordance with the command of Moses (Deuteronomy xxvii:4-6,) the children of Israel built an altar upon
Mount Ebal, "the mountain of curses," after their entrance
into the promised land. The Samaritans believed that this altar
should have been built on Gerizim, and they afterwards erected
a temple on this mountain, where they worshipped. It was to
this mountain that the woman of Samaria referred in her conversation with the Savior, recorded in the beginning of the
fourth chapter of John.
MOUNTAINS OF EPHRAIM.
This is the general name applied to the mountains in the tribe
of Ephraim in the southern part of Samaria; and those in Judea,
including the tribes of Judah, Simeon, Benjamin, and Dan, are
called the Mountains of Judah.
MOUNTAINS OF JERUSALEM.
The mountains of Jerusalem  are Bezetha on the north,
Bezetha, Moriah and Ophel on the east, Zion on the south, and
Zion and Acra on the west. Without the city are Mount Olivet
on the east, Mount of Corruption on the south-east, and the
Hill of Evil Counsel on the south.




ADJACENT COUNTRIES.                395
SEAS.
DEAD SEA.
The seas of Palistine are the Dead Sea, Sea of Galilee, and
Waters of Merom. The Dead sea is situated in the southern
part of Palestine, between Judah on the west, and Reuben and
the kingdom of the Moabites on the east. In the Bible it is
called the Salt sea, (Genesis xiv:3, numbers xxxiv:3-12; Deuteronomy iii:17; Joshua iii:16, xii:3, xv:2-5, xviii:19); Sea of
the Plain (Deuteronomy iii:17, iv:49; Joshua iii:16, xii:3, II
Kings, xiv:25); the Sea (Ezekiel xlvii:8); East sea (Ezekiel xlvii:
18, Joel ii:20); in the Talmud it is called the Sea of Sodom.
Josephus calls it the Asphaltic Lake; the Greeks call it
Asphaltites, and the Arabs Sea of Lot. The name Dead Sea
was not used until about the second century after Christ. This
sea is the receptacle of the rivers Jordan, Kidron and Arnon,
besides several smaller streams. It is about forty miles long
and from four to ten wide. Its depth ranges from thirteen to
thirteen hundred feet. The water of the Dead Sea is extremely
nauseating and sluggish. A gallon of this water weighs over
twelve pounds, or over two pounds more than pure water. Some
have advanced the theory that this sea did not exist until the
destruction of Sodom and Gomorah, and that they were at that
time submerged. This supposition is based solely upon Genesis
xiv:3, which makes the vale of Siddim identical with the Salt
sea. v As the waters of the Jordan were always discharged in
the same place, believers in this theory suppose that there before
existed a subterranean lake which received the waters of which
the Dead Sea is now the receptacle.  Others contradict this
theory on the ground that Genesis xiv:3 is the only passage in
the whole Bible which at all gives countenance to this belief;
that the cities of Sodom and Gomorrah, lying, as they did, in
the " Plain of the Jordan," must have been north, or at least
on the northern extremity of the sea; and, which is a still
stronger proof of the fallacy of this belief, that it is in direct
opposition to the description of the manner of the destruction
of these cities as given in Genesis xix:24.




396                   PALESTINE AND
SEA OF GALILEE.
The Sea of Galilee is situated between Zebulon and Naphtali
on the west, and the half tribe of Manasseh on the east.  It is
called in the Bible, Sea of Chinereth (numbers xxxiv:11, Deuteronomy iii:17, Joshua xiii:27); Chineroth (Joshua xi:2, xii:3);
Sea of Galilee (Matthew iv:18, xv:29, Mark i:16, vii:31, John
vi:1); Lake of Gennesaret (Luke v:1); Sea of Tiberias (John
vi:l, xxi:1). The sea is about fifteen miles long, and from six
to eight wide. There are in this lake several kinds of fish; and
it is famous from the fact that the first four of Christ's disciples,
Peter, Andrew, James and John, were fishermen on this lake,
(Matthew iv:18-22, Mark i:16-20, Luke v:1-11), and that it
was the scene of several interesting incidents in the life of our
Savior. The river Jordan passes through this lake on its course
to the Dead sea.  (See view of Sea of Galilee, No. 24.)
WATERS OF MEROM.
This is a small, triangular shaped lake in the northern part of
Palestine, in the territory of the tribe of Naphtali. Josephus
calls it Lake Samochonitis, and it is now called Huleh.  It is
celebrated as being the scene of a battle during the conquest of
Palestine between the Israelites under Joshua, and Jabin, king
of Hazor, Jobab, king of Madon, and divers other kings. (Joshua, xi:1-9.)
RIVERS.
JORDAN.
This river, the most important and celebrated of the rivers of
the Bible, has two sources. One of these is a fountain south-west
of Mount Hermon, near a place called HIasbeiya, whence the
river, between that place and the waters of Merom, is called the
Hasbany.   The principal source of the Jordan, however, is
among the mountains of Naphtali, near Caesarea Philippi.  (See
view of the source of the Jordan, No. 93.) These two branches
unite in the waters of Merom.  The river then flows in a southerly direction, passing in a direct current by itself through the




ADJACENT COUNTRIES.                 397
Sea of Galilee, and discharges its waters into the Dead sea. It
is a remarkably tortuous stream.  From its most remote source
to its mouth it will not measure more than one hundred and fifteen to one hundred and twenty miles in a straight line, but the
river is in reality more than twice that length. The current of
the river is very rapid. Its average breadth is about ninety
feet, but at its mouth it is said to be over five hundred and thirty
feet wide. The Jordan was the scene of many interesting transactions, both in the times of the prophets and in the time of
Christ, the most important of which were the overflowing of
its banks at the time of the dividing of the waters of the Dead
sea, in order that the Israelites might pass over (Joshua, iii:1417); the waters divided by Elijah and Elisha (II. Kings ii:814); Naaman, the Syrian captain, cured of the leprosy (II.
Kings, v:1-14); and the baptism of Christ (Matthew, iii:13-17;
Mark, i:9-11; Luke, iii:21-22; John, i:32-34).
OTHER RIVERS.
Abana and Phlarpar, rivers of Damascus, a city of Syria, rise
among the mountains of Anti-Lebanon, and flow, Pharpar
through the city of Damascus, and Abana in the immediate
vicinity.  They are lost among the marshes to the east of Damascus. These rivers are mentioned but once in the Bible (II.
Kings, v:12). Abana is also called Amana, and some have supposed the expression in Solomon's Song, iv:8, to refer to this
river. Belus is a small river which rises among the mountains
in the territory of the tribe of Asher, and empties into the Bay
of Acre, a short distance below the city.
Besor, meaning'" cold," is the name of a brook passed over
by David when he was in pursuit of the Amalekites (I. Samuel,
xxx:9-10-21). It rises among the mountains of Judah in the
tribe of Simeon, and flows through the land of the Philistines,
emptying into the Mediterranean at the little town of Anthedon,
about five miles south-west of Gaza.
" That ancient river, the river Kishon," rises in the territory
of the tribe of Issachar, and flows through the beautiful plain of
Esdrselon, entering the Bay of Acre near the base of Mount




398                  PALESTINE AND
Carmel. Its other names are the river before Jokneam (Joshua,
xix:11), and the waters of Megiddo (Judges, v:19). This river
is famous as the scene of the overthrow and defeat of the hosts
of Jabin, king of Canaan, under Sisera, by Deborah and Barak
(Judges, iv:1-16), and the destruction of the four hundred and
fifty prophets of Baal (I. Kings, xviii:40).
The river Kanah is in Samaria, and flows into the Mediterranean sea. In the division of Palestine into tribes, this river
formed the boundary between Ephraim and Manasseh (Joshua,
xvi:8, and xvii:9).
The river Leontes rises among the mountains of Anti-Lebanon,
a few miles above the town of Baalbek, and flows through the
valley of Lebanon or Coele-Syria, emptying into the Mediterranean sea a short distance above Tyre.
The rivers Hieromax and Jabbok are branches of the Jordan
on the east; the former flowing from Bashan through the half
tribe of Manasseh and the northern portion of Gad, and discharging its waters into the Jordan at a point about eight miles south of
the Sea of Galilee, and the latter flowing from the country of the
Ammonites, across the central part of Gad, and entering the Jordan about four miles north-west of the town of Succoth.
Arnon and Zered are rivers emptying into the Dead sea on
the east. The river Arnon formed the boundary between the
country of the Moabites and Reuben (Deuteronomy, iii:8-12-16,
iv:48; Joshua, xii:1-2, xiii:9-16; Judges, xi:13-18-26), and
Zered (Deuteronomy, ii:13-14), called also Zared (Numbers,
xxi:12) and " the brook of the wilderness" (Isaiah, xv:7) was
the boundary between Moab and Edom.
The brook Kedron runs through the valley of Jehoshaphat
which separates Jerusalem from the Mount of Olives, and
empties into the Dead sea. The name Kedron does not appear
in the Bible. It is called Kidron (II. Samuel, xv:23; II.
Kings, xxiii:6), and Cedron (John, xviii:1). The brook Cherith
flows through Jerico eastward, and empties into the Jordan. It
was near this brook that Elijah was fed by the ravens when he
was hiding from the presence of King Ahab (I. Kings, xvii:2-6).




ADJACENT COUNTRIES.                 399
CITIES.
JERUSALEM,
The capital, and principal city of Palestine, is situated in the
south-western part of the land of the tribe of Benjamin, in
Judea. (See views of Jerusalem;) This city, the most sacred
of all cities, received, in the Bible, a variety of names, viz:
Salem (Genesis, xiv:18; Psalm, lxxvi:2; Hebrews, vii:1-2);
The Jebusite (Joshua, xv:8); Jebusi (Joshua, xviii:28); Jebus
(Judges, xix:10-11); City of the Jebusites (Judges, xix:11);
Stronghold of Zion (II. Samuel, v:7); City of David (II. Samuel, v:7-9, vi:10-12-16; I. Kings, ii:10, viii:1); Zion (I. Kings,
viii:1; Psalm, xlviii:12, lxxxvii:2-5; Isaiah, xxxiii:20, lx:14);
C(ity of God (Psalm, xlvi:4, xlviii:1-8, lxxxvii:3); City of the
Lord (Psalm, xlviii:8; Isaiah, lx:14); City of the Great King
(Psalm, xlviii:2; Matthew, v:35). Herodotus called it Kadytus,
and Homer gave it the name of Solyma. The modern Arabian
name is El-Khuds, signifying " the holy."
Jerusalem is situated in latitude 31~ 46' 35"1 N., and longitude 350 18' 30" E. from Greenwich, thirty miles from the
Mediterranean, thirty-five southeast of Joppa, six north of Bethlehem, eighteen north of Hebron, twenty from the Jordan, fifteen
south-west of Jericho, and thirty-six south of Samaria. It is
built upon several hills, Bezetha on the north, Moriah and Ophel
on the east, Zion on the south, and Zion and Acra on the west.
In the time of Christ, the wall extended between Acra and Bezetha on the north, Calvary being just outside the city, between
these hills. After the death of Christ, king Agrippa built a
wall, which was the same as the former on the east, west and
south, but on the north it included Calvary and Bezetha in the
city. The modern wall is wider at the north than that built by
Agrippa. It extends, on the north, across Bezetha, cutting off
its northern part, and on the south, across Mount Zion, leaving
the southern portion of this mountain outside of the wall.
In the wall are four principal gates, which are always open
from morning until sunset. They are as follows: On the east
side of the city, near the pool of Bethesda, is St. Stephen's gate,
which is also called the Sheep gate, and the Gate of the Viryin




400                  PALESTINE AND
Mary; on the south side is Zion gate, called likewise the Gate
of David; between Mounts Bezetha and Calvary, on the west
side, is the Damascus gate; and near the bend on the west side is
the Joppa gate (see view No. 86).  This gate is also called the
Pilgrim's gate, Gate of Bethlehem, and Bab el Khaleel, meaning " the gate of the beloved,' i. e., Abraham.  Two smaller
gates, which are opened occasionally, are, one a little west of
Mount Moriah, on the south side, which Maundrell calls the
_Duny gate, and the other, going out from Bezetha, on the west
side, to which the same writer gives the name of Herod's gate.
Another gate, which Maundrell calls the Golden gate, is on the
east side of Mount Moriah.  It was used as a gate at the time
the Christians were in possession of the city, but it is now completely walled up. (See view No. 18.) There are several other
gates mentioned in the scriptures, among which are the following:  G'ate Sur (II ings, xi:6); Gate of or behind the Gluard
(II Kings, xi:6,19); Horse gate (II Kings, xi:16, II Chronicles, xxiii:15, Nehemiah, iii:28, Jeremiah, xxxi:40); Corner
gate (II Kings, xiv:13, II Chronicles, xxv:23, xxvi:9, Nehemiah, iii:35, Jeremiah, xxxi:38, Zechariah, xiv:10); Gate of
_Ephraim (II Kings, xiv:13, II Chronicles, xxv:23, Nehemiah,
viii:16, xii:39); Gate of Joshua (II Kings, xxiii:8); Gate between the two walls (II Kings, xxv:4, Jeremiah, xxxix,4): Gate
of foundation (II Chronicles, xxxiii:5); High gate (II Kings,
xv:35, II Chronicles, xxiii:20, xxvii:3); Valley gate (II Chronicles, xxvi:9, Nehemiah, ii:13, iii:13); Gate Shallecheth (I
Chronicles, xxvi:16); Fish gate (II Chronicles, xxxiii:14, Nehemiah, iii:3, xii:39, Zephaniah, i:10); _Fountain gate (Nehemiah, ii:14, iii:15, xii:37); Old gate (Nehemiah, iii:6, xii:39);
Water gate (Nehemiah, iii:26, viii:1-3-16, xii:37); East gate
(Nehemiah, iii:29, Jeremiah, xix:2); Gate Miphkad (Nehemiah,
iii:31) Prison gate (Nehemiah, xii:39); Gate of Benjamin (Jeremiah xx:2, xxxvii:13, Zechariah, xiv:10); First gate (Zechariah, xiv:10). Josephus mentions Essenes' gate and the gate
Gennath.
There are one Catholic and twelve Greek convents on Mount
Calvary.  The Greeks have another near Zion gate.  The




ADJACENT COUNTRIES.                401
Armenians have two in the city, three on Mount Zion, and one
outside of Zion gate, where the house of Caiaphas, in which
our Savior was tried and denied by Peter, is supposed to have
stood. There are also a Syrian convent and an English church
(see view No. 16) on Mount Zion, a Coptic convent on Calvary,
a Dervise convent on Mount Moriah, and a Latin convent on
Acra. (See view No. 13.) The Jews have a number of synagogues, the principal of which is the church of the Holy Sepulchre, on Calvary.  (See view No. 12.)  "This is an edifice
distinguished for its size and massiveness. It forms altogether
a block one hundred and sixty feet long, and one hundred
wide; and includes what are called the chapel of the crucifixion, the church of the sepulchre, seven small chapels, a monastery and cloisters.  The traditions with which the various
apartments are associated are scarcely worthy to be preserved,
and yet the votaries of superstition have contrived to group and
connect them in such a manner as to excite strong and probably
salutary emotions in the mind of the reflecting visitor."  On
Mount Moriah, in the eastern part of the city, on the site of
Solomon's temple (I Kings, vi), stands the mosque of Omar.
This mosque is walled in on all sides, and none but Mussulmen
are permitted to enter its sacred precincts on pain'of death. It
is a very large building, and there are strong proofs that it
is built on the same foundation on which the temple of Solomon stood.  (See views of the'mosque of Omar.)  On the
south of Mount Moriah the Mohammedans have another large
and beautiful mosque, which they call the mosque of Aksa. (See
views of the mosque of Aksa.)
On the east side of the city, in the street leading up from the
gate of St. Stephen, commences the Via Dolorosa, or "grievous
way."  This is the path in which tradition says our Savior
walked from the house of Pontius Pilate, the governor, to the
place of crucifixion. (See view No. 14.) Without the city are
several places of interest. The valley of Gihon is memorable
as the place of the anointing of Solomon as king (I Kings, i:
33-38-45); and the fountain cf Gihon is mentioned as having
its course turned by king Hezekiah (II Chronicles, xxxii:38).
26




402                  PALESTINE AND
(See view No. 85.)  The valley of Hinnom, which is a continuation of Gihon, is immediately below Jerusalem, and joins Jehoshaphat south-east of the city. In this valley, at one time, the
most abominable idolatries were practiced (II Chronicles xxxiii:
6). It is also called Topheth (II Kings, xxiii:10), from toph,
(a drum), because that instrument was often used to drown the
cries of victims. The valley of Hinnom is situated at the foot
of Mount Zion, along the western branch of the brook Kedron
(see view No. 82). On the slope of a lofty mountain opposite
to Mount Ophel, at the foot of which runs the brook Kedron,
is situated the village of Siloam, to the south-west of Jerusalem.
(See view No. 10.)  South-east of Jerusalem, at the foot of
Mount Zion, is the pool of Siloam, memorable as the pool in
which the blind man washed and received sight (John, ix:7).
(See view No. 11.) The garden of Gethsemane, where our Savior agonized before his crucifixion, is east of Jerusalem, on the
western slope of Mount Olivet (see view No. 9). Mount Olivet,
celebrated as the mountain from which Christ made his public
entry into Jerusalem, and also from which He ascended into
heaven, is west of Jerusalem.  (See views Nos. 9 and 81.)
South of Jerusalem, across the western branch of the brook
Kedron, is Aceldama or " the field of blood," which was bought
with the money paid to Judas Iscariot for betraying his Master
(Matthew, xxvii:7). (See view No. 83.)
BAALBEK.
This is an ancient city of Syria, the origin of which is not
known. It is situated in the valley of Lebanon, on the river
Leontes, a short distance below its source. It is supposed to
have been built by the Phoenicians at a very ancient date, and
afterwards greatly enlarged and beautified by the Romans.
The ruins of this ancient city are supposed to exceed in extent
even those of Rome. (See views Nos. 35 to 45 inclusive.) This
is probably the same as Baalgad, mentioned in Joshua, xi:17.
DAMASCUS.
This city, the oldest in the world, and capital of Syria, is situated on the Pharpar river, in a plain covered with olive, chestnut,




ADJACENT COUNTRIES.                403
and fig trees, apricots and vines.  No Christian is permitted to enter within the walls of the city. It is at the present
time under the government of the Mohammedans. A mosque
in that city, which is a very old building, is supposed to be the
longest structure in the world which is used as a place of worship.
(See view No. 30.) This place is memorable as the residence
of Naaman, the leper, and captain of the hosts of Syria, whom
Elisha healed of leprosy, (II. Kings, v.,) and for the conversion
of the Apostle Paul, (Acts, ix:1-18). (See views of Damascus.)
RUKHLEH
Is an ancient city north of Mount Hermon, at the foot of the
Anti-Lebanon range. The town is now in ruins. (See view
No. 29.)
TYRE AND SIDON
Are ancient cities of Phoenicia, on the coast of the Mediterranean, the former about one hundred and ten, and the latter
about one hundred and thirty miles north-west of Jerusalem.
The Hebrew name of Tyre was Tsor or Tsur.  The modern
name is Sur.  Sidon was also called Zidon several times in
scripture, and was the subject of several remarkable prophecies.
(Isaiah, xxiii:4-18; Jeremiah, xxv:17-38; Ezekiel, xxviii:2124.) It is now called " Saida." In the division of Canaan by
lot to the twelve tribes, Tyre and Sidon were in the territory
assigned to the tribe of Asher (Joshua, xix:28-29), but the
Israelites never succeeded in wholly expelling the native inhabitants, who were to them a source of great annoyance. These
cities are now in Phoenicia. They "are supposed to have been
built over a thousand years before the Christian era. The
ancient inhabitants lived in a style of great luxuriance, which
caused the prophet to utter maledictions against the cities (Isaiah, xxiii). Their crimes were, however, in some degree palliated on account of their non-enlightenment when Christ " upbraided the cities wherein most of his mighty works were done,
because they repented not." (Matthew, xi:21-22; Luke, x:1314.) These cities were formerly very beautiful, but they are
now in ruins. (See views of Tyre.)




404                   PALESTINE AND
CAPERNAUM
Was situated on the western coast of the Sea of Galilee.  In
this city Christ performed some of his most wonderful works,
and delivered some of his most pointed discourses. Notwithstanding Capernaum  was so highly favored by the Savior's
instructions and presence, it was a wicked and ungrateful city,
and was the subject of some of the Lord's most fearful denunciations.  The prediction of its downfall, contained in Matthew
xi:23-24, and Luke x:15, was long ago fulfilled, and now even
the site it occupied is uncertain, although it was once the metropolis of all Galilee, and a city of great renown. Dr. Robinson
believes it to be the same as "K1aln Minyeh" on the northwestern shore of the Sea of Galilee; but Dr. Thomson thinks
it is " Tell Hum," three miles above "Kaln Minyeh," on the
same shore, and nearly ninety miles from Jerusalem.  (See view
No. 26.)
BETHSAIDA.
The town of Bethsaida was situated on the western shore of
the l'iver Jordan, and near the Sea of Galilee.  There is at the
present day scarcely any trace of the town, it being entirely
destroyed.  It is celebrated in sacred history as being the birthplace of Philip, Andrew, and Peter, who were among the first
followers of Christ, and who were all subsequently chosen
Apostles, (John i:44.)  (See view No. 24.)
CHORAZIN.
This town, which is somewhere in Galilee, was once a city of
some note, and was included in the curse (Matthew xi:21-22,
Luke x:13-14) because it would not repent. Its exact location
is not now known, but it is supposed to be identical with
"Khorazy," two miles above " Tell Hum," and ninety-two from
Jerusalem.
CAESSREA PHILIPPI.
This town was situated in the north-eastern part of Galilee,
near iMount Hermon, about one hundred and ten miles from
Jerusalem.  The town is now in ruins.  (See view No. 92.)
Near this place is the principal source of the river Jordan.
"Philip, the tetrarch, son of Herod, contributed largely to its




ADJACENT COUNTRIES.                 405
prosperity, and gave it the name of Cesarea, in honor of Tiberius Cnesar."  It is called Caesarea of Philip, or Cesarea Philippi, to distinguish it from
CESAREA OF PALESTINE.
This town is in Samaria, on the coast of the Mediterranean
sea, about sixty miles north-west of Jerusalem. It was-built by
Herod the great, about twenty years before Christ.  It was
called C(esarea in honor of Augustus C-esar. This place was at
one time the principal city of Palestine, and it was here that
Paul made his celebrated defense before King Agrippa (Acts
xxiii:33, xxvi:30.) In Coesarea was the residence of Cornelius,
the centurion (Acts x:l,) and also of Philip the evangelist (Acts
xxi:8.)
NT AZARETH.
This town is situated from fifty to seventy miles north of Jerusalem, and six miles north-west of Mount Tabor. It is described
by a modern traveler as " situated upon the declivity of a hill,
the vale of which spreads out before it resembling a circular
basin, encompassed by mountains."  The streets are narrow and
steep; the average estimate of the population is about three thousand; and the houses, of which there are about two hundred and
fifty, are all flat-roofed.  About five hundred of the inhabitants
are Turks, and the remainder are nominal Christians.  This
town is celebrated in scripture as being the place where the
parents of Jesus dwelt after their return from their flight into
Egypt.  (Matthew, ii:23.)  (See view No. 89.)
SAMARIA.
The province of Samaria received its name from the city of
the same name.  This city is situated about forty miles north of
Jerusalem, and six miles north-west of the ancient city of Shechem. It was built about the year 925 B. C., by Omri, king
of Israel, as the capital of the kingdom of Israel, and named in
honor of Shemer, from whom the land on which it was built was
purchased (I. Kings, xvi:24). The Hebrew name of the city
was Shomeron. The position of the city was extremely beautiful, and it was strongly fortified. It withstood an unsuccessful




406                  PALESTINE AND
siege by Benhadad, king of Syria, who was assisted by thirtytwo other kings (I. Kings, xx:1-21); but was finally taken
by Shalmaneser, king of Assyria, during the reign of Hosea
(II. Kings, xvii:1-6), after a siege of three years.  The
Romans called the city Sebaste. It is now but a small village, and is called by the Arabs Sebustiyeh, a corruption of
Sebaste.' Some architectural remains it has, partly of Christian construction or adaptation, as the ruined church of St.
John the Baptist " (see view No. 88), and "partly, perhaps,
traces of Idumaean magnificence.  St. Jerome, whose acquaintance with Palestine imparts a sort of probability to the tradition
which prevailed so strongly in later days, asserts that Sebaste,
which he invariably identifies with Samaria, was the place in
which St. John the Baptist was imprisoned and suffered death.
He also makes it the burial place of the prophets Elisha and
Obadiah."
SHECHEM
Was one of the most ancient cities of Palestine. It was also
called Sichem (Genesis xii:6), Sychar (John iv:5), and Sychem
(Acts vii:16).  The Romans called it Nea2olis or Nablous, -and
it is still known by the latter name.  Mount Ebal is north
and Gerizim  south of the city.  In the modern town two
long streets run parallel with the valley. The view of the city
from the surrounding hights is said to be exceedingly beautiful,
situated as it is in a delightful and fertile valley. There are in
the town six Mohammedan mosques, a church of the Greek
Christians, and a Samaritan synagogue, in which service is held
every Saturday, which is the Samaritan sabbath. It has a population of eight or ten thousand, all Mohammedans, with the
exception of twelve or fifteen Jews, from fifty to one hundred
Greek Christians, and about forty Samaritans.  (See view
No. 87.)
SHILOH
Was a city of Samaria in the land of the tribe of Ephraim,
about twenty-two miles north of Jerusalem, and twelve miles
south-east of Shechem.  Its modern name is Seilun.  It is celebrated in Scripture as being the residence of Eli, where Samuel




ADJACENT COUNTRIES.                407
was taken by his mother (I. Samuel, i:24-25), and where he
began to prophesy (iii:20-21). It was also the residence of the
prophet Ahijah (I. Kings, xiv:2).  The ruinous condition of
Shiloh was proverbial in the times of the prophets (Jeremiah,
vii:14, xxvi:6-9). It is now wholly in ruins. (See view No. 22.)
JOPPA
Was and is yet the principal seaport of Palestine, though its
harbor is a poor one, ships being obliged to anchor about a mile
from the city. It is called Japho in Joshua xix:46, and is now
known as Jaffa or Yaffa. It is situated in the tribe of Dan,
about thirty-five miles north-west of Jerusalem, and about the
same distance south-west of Shechem. Joppa was the residence
of Dorcas, a woman "1 full of good works" (Acts, ix:36), and,
also, of Simon, the tanner, with whom Peter lodged, and where
he had his celebrated vision (Acts x:6-9-16).
JERICHO
Is one of the oldest cities of Palestine. It is situated in the
tribe of Benjamin, about sixteen miles north-east of Jerusalem.
Its modern name is Riha.  There are a great many palm trees
in the vicinity; and in Deuteronomy, xxxiv:3, it is called the
city of palm trees. When the Israelites crossed into Palestine,
they went immediately to Jericho.  The city was compassed
seven days; the walls fell on the seventh at the shouting of the
people, and by the command of God the city was completely
destroyed and all the inhabitants slain, except Rahab and her
family, and the very ground on which the city stood was cursed
(Joshua, vi).  It was at the fountain of Jericho, near this
place, that Elisha effected a miraculous change in the unwholesome waters (II. Kings, ii:19-22).  (See view No. 7.)  Jericho
was also the residence of Zaccheus, the publican. (Luke xix:
1-10.)
BETHANY
Was a village on the south-eastern side of the Mount of Olives,
two miles from Jerusalem. It was the scene of many interesting events in the life of Christ, among which are the cursing of
the fig tree (Matthew, xxi:18-22, Mark, xi:12-14-20-23); the
anointing of His feet (Matthew, xxvi:6-13, Mark, xiv:3-9, Luke,




408                   PALESTINE AND
vii:36-50, John, xii:3-8); and the raising of Lazarus (John, xi:
1-44). The village is now in ruins. (See view No. 79.)
BETHLEHEM.
This village, celebrated in sacred history as the birth-place of
David (Luke, ii:4-11), and of Christ (Matthew, ii:l, Luke, ii:46, John, vii:42), is about six miles south-west of Jerusalem. It
was so small a place that it was generally omitted in the lists of
the cities of Judah.  Travelers speak of it as being reduced
to a miserable state, from  the ravages of war.  When Mr.
Whiting, an American missionary, was there, in 1834, "it
had just suffered severely from some tyrannical measures of the
government; and he passed over the ruins of houses and fields
that had just then been demolished, and parks of olive and fig
trees which had been cut down by order of the pasha, to punish
their proprietors for an alleged rebellion and flight."  (See view
No. 78.)
HEBRON.
This town is situated about twenty miles south of Jerusalem.
It was, also, called Kirjath-Arba (Genesis, xxiii:2, Joshua, xiv:15,
Judges, i:10); C(ity of Arba (Joshua, xv:13); Jlamre (Genesis,
xxiii:16, xxv:9, xlix:30, i:13). The Arabs now call it "_E1-_Kzaleel, which signifies' the friend,' or' the beloved,' from the remarkable title given to Abraham, namely,'the friend of God.' "
Here Abraham lived (Genesis, xiii:18), and here was his family
burial-place, the cave of Machpelah (Genesis, xxiii:19-20, xxv:
9-10, xlix:29-32, i:13). After the conquest of Canaan, Hebron
was in the territory assigned to Caleb (Joshua, xiv:13-14), and
it was afterwards one of the cities of refuge (Joshua, xx:7, xxi:
13).  The cave of Machpelah is now covered by a mosque, which
is the most prominent object in the town.  (See view No. 77.)
It is supposed by some that Hebron was the residence of Zacharias and Elizabeth, at the time of the birth of John the Baptist. " About a mile from the town, up the valley, is one of the
largest oak trees in Palestine.  This, say some, is the very tree
beneath which Abraham pitched his tent, and it still bears the
name of the patriarch."




ADJACENT COUNTRIES.                 409
SINAI.
Sinai, the scene of the Israelite wanderings in the desert, is
situated between the Gulfs of Suez and Akabuh.  The surface
is generally mountainous and rocky. Nearly in the centre of
this peninsula is a wedge of granite, rising upwards of eight
thousand feet in hight.  Mount ioreb forms the north end of
the ridge. Mount Sinai, one of the peaks, is generally identified with Jebel-Moosa, or " Mount of Moses," the supposed site
of the burning bush, though many conjecture that Mount Horeb
was the original Sinai, celebrated in holy writ. The culminating point of this cluster of mountains is Mount St. Catharine.
Wady Mukatteb, or the Written Valley, is celebrated for the
inscriptions which line the rocks.  These are thought to be the
work of christian hands, probably of some passing pilgrims.
On the north-east side is the fortified convent of Sinai, now
tenanted by about twenty Greek monks. (See views of Sinai.)
GREECE.
In ancient times this country was in advance of all others in
freedom, literature, art, philosophy, and of civilization generally.
Its early history is involved in obscurity. The only approach
to it is through the marvelous legends of gods and heroes, but
how much truth may underlie these stories it is difficult to say.
In the fifteenth century it was conquered by the Turks, but in
1821 the inhabitants revolted, and the country is now independent.  It is situated in the southern part of Europe, and covers
an area about half the size of Scotland.
The surface of Greece is generally mountainous, more so
than any other country of Europe, except Switzerland and parts
of Scotland.  The province of Arcadia almost rivals Switzerland in the rugged grandeur of its mountain scenery.  The
mountains are more remarkable for the abruptness of their rise
than for their great elevation, though some of the peaks rise to
a great hight. Olympus is nine thousand seven hundred feet
in hight, and is covered with perpetual snow.
The rivers of Greece are small, and nlone of them navigable;
but it has an extensive coast-line, with numerous bays extending
far up in the land, affording important commercial advantages.




410                   PALESTINE AND
ATHENS,
The capital of Attica, and the chief city of Greece, is situated about three miles from the coast, in the central plain of
Attica, surrounded by hills on all sides except towards the sea.
The plain is broken by a number of hills, of moderate hight,
several of which, with their intervening valleys, are partially
occupied by the city, while the highest, rising abruptly for about
one hundred and fifty feet, forms the Acropolis, or citadel, on
which most of the noblest monuments are placed. This is an isolated rocky hight, with a flat summit of about one thousand feet
long from east to west, by five hundred feet broad from north
to south.
Immediately west of the Acropolis is a second hill, of irregular form, called the Areopagus, or Mars' Hill.  (See view No.
99.)  According to tradition, it is called Mars' Hill on account
of this god being brought to trial before the assembled gods by
Neptune, for the murder of his son.  It was the place of meeting of the Council of Areopagus, the most ancient and venerable of all the Athenian courts, enjoying a high reputation
not only in Athens, but throughout all Greece.  To the Christian it possesses a peculiar interest as the spot from which
St. Paul delivered his eloquent address to the people of Athens.
The city of Athens is crowded in every direction with temples, alters, and other sacred buildings. The Acropolis is covered
with temples of gods and heroes. The Propylaca, standing at
the top of a flight of marble steps, seventy feet broad, serves as
an entrance to the works within.  It is constructed entirely of
Pentelic marble, and forms one of the master pieces of Athenian
art. (See view No. 48.)
In the highest part of the Acropolis, and near the center,
stands the Parthenon, adorned by the most exquisite sculptures,
and forming the most perfect production of Grecian architecture.
(See view No. 102.) North of the Parthenon and close to the
northern wall of the Acropolis stands a magnificent building
called the Erechtheum.  (See view No. 100.)  In front of the
sacred area which Athens dedicated to her tutelary divinity,
stands a temple called the Wingless Victory.  On the marble




ADJACENT COUNTRIES.                411
balustrade, which encircles the edifice, are pictured a troop of
personified Victories. (See view No. 51.) Pausanias informs
us that the Athenians gave no wings to victory because they
would prevent her flying away from them. In many of these
buildings female figures called Caryatides are used in the place
of columns. (See view No. 49.)  Occupying the slope at the
south-eastern extremity of the Acropolis is the theatre of Bacchus. This is excavated out of solid rock, with rows of seats
extending one above the other. (See views Nos. 53, 54 and 55).
EGYPT.
The early history of Egypt is involved in obscurity.  History
throws but little light on the building of its ancient cities, and the
construction of the magnificent monuments which still continue
to be the wonder and admiration of the world. At the present
time, it is principally under the French government. It is situated in the north-eastern part of Africa, embracing the northern division of the Nile, and extending from the Mediterranean
to the cataract of the Syene.
Scattered throughout Egypt are a number of remarkable
works of art, among which are the Pyramids, Lake Moeris, an
immense artificial reservoir, the Great Sphinx at Gizeh, a colossal
form hewn out of the solid rock, one hundred and seventy-two
feet long, by fifty-six feet high; the Labyrinth, an enormous
structure of marble, built underground, and the Catacombs,
subterraneous galleries of great extent, appropriated to the
reception of the dead.
The Pyramids are one of the wonders, both of the ancient
and modern world.  They are solid mounds raised over the
chambers containing the remains of the kings who flourished
from the fourth to the twelfth dynasty.  One of the first acts of
an Egyptian monarch, was to prepare his tomb. For this purpose a rectangular chamber was first excavated in the solid rock.
Over this chamber, a cubical mass of masonry of square blocks
was then placed, leaving the orifice of the shaft open. Additions to this mass continued to be made during the life of the
monarch. At his death the outer surface was smoothed off, and
the entrance carefully filled up to prevent ingress to the




412        PALESTINE AND ADJACENT COUNTRIES.
sepulchral chamber. In the construction of the largest of these
pyramids, one hundred thousand men are said to have been
employed for upwards of thirty years, (See views of the Pyramids.)
The only river of Egypt is the Nile. It is about half a mile
in width, and receives no tributaries for the last one thousand
five hundred miles of its course. It yearly overflows its banks,
furnishing, in a country where rain seldom or never falls, valuable irrigation to the soil.  The scenery along the river in upper
Egypt is wild and romantic, but in the lower part of its course,
it is monotonous and uninteresting.  Herodotus describes it as
having seven mouths, but at the present day only two of them
continue to flow in an uninterrupted course to the sea.  West of
the Nile, is the fertile valley of Fagoon.  From  this valley a
road leads west to the oasis of El Dukhel.  Other roads from
Girgesh, Esneh and Ezion Geber, offer communication with the
fertile spots which characterize the regions west of this river.
The usual manner of traveling is by means of camels and dromedaries. (See view No. 5.)
CAIRO,
The capital, is situated on the right bank of the Nile, about
five miles above the commencement of its delta.  Its streets are
narrow, dark, irregular, and unpaved. It covers an area of
about three square miles, and is surrounded by a low wall. The
most remarkable buildings are the minarets and mosques. It
has two elegant and high minarets. Under the rule of the
Mameluke kings, the celebrated mosque, on account of its great
size and the thickness of its walls, was frequently seized and
made use of as a fortress.
Among the objects of interest, situated in the environs of the
city, are the tombs of the Caliphs. These are magnificent
and imposing buildings, forming beautiful specimens of Arabian
architecture. (See view No. 96.) On the south, outside the
walls, are the celebrated tombs of the Mamelukes.  (See view
No. 60.)  The public gardens, which consist of groves of orange,
citron, palms, and vines, are considered very beautiful. The
population of the city is estimated at about two hundred and
fifty thousand.  (See view of Cairo.)




CATALOGUTE OF VIEWS.
MISCELLANEOUS.
NO. VIEW.                                                  NO. PAGE.
224  The Tomb of Washington (Mount Vernon),          -         232
1414  Mount Vernon, the Residence of George Washington,..   232
667  1339 669 668 The Genesee Falls, at Rochester,-            176
702  Loch Lomond. The Ferry (Scotch),                          349
1775  1776 Saloon of the Steamer St. John, on the Hudson, -.... 175
1875  1283, 1873, 1874 Fort La Fayette, New York Harbor, -.. 184
1410  1411 1412 1413 Harvard College, Cambridge, Mass., -       159
4115  Upper Saloon of the North River Steamer Dean Richmond,_  175
4571  Group of Officers on board the Italian Man-of-War, N. Y.
Harbor,                                                 188
4579  Wall Street Ferry, New York Harbor,                       188
4584  Castle Garden, New York,                                  185
4596  Funeral of President Lincoln, N. Y. City, 7th Regiment passing in view,-. -_..... 93
5268  Residence of President Brigham Young and Daniel H. Wells,
Salt Lake City, Utah Territory, -........               308
5269  Section of Roof of the New Tabernacle, Salt Lake City, -...  308
5432  View on Stapleton Hights, Staten Island, -,   202
5438  5437 Interior view of Fort Lafayette, showing the spot
where Kennedy was executed, -- 184
5899  5900 Saloon of the Steamer "Drew," Central Park, ------  185
5974  5902 The Sound Steamer "Bristol," on the Hudson, -----  175
5973 5974 Cohoes Falls, N. Y.,,. — -                           176
6708  6709 The Cornell University at Ithica, N. Y.,             203
5978  5977 Looking across the Hudson, Jersey City in the distance,  206
5979  Looking across the Hudson, Hoboken in the distance, -.... 206
6087  Upper Saloon of the Steamer Providence, (on the Hudson,).   175
6609  6610 Natural Bridge, in Virginia-,                      230
6617  Monument and Attendant Statue of Victory, Lowell, Miass.,  158
6289  Washington Monument, Union Square, N. Y.,. -188
450  444 440 432 429 Fourth of July in and about New York, - -    184
816  Georgetown, from  Camp Cameron.  A  view of exquisite
beauty,                                                 225
944  View of Harper's Ferry, showing the ruin wrought by war,    72
1263  1264 Flag Ship of the Russian fleet in New York Harbor,    188
2166  2167 Harper's Ferry and the Shenandoah Valley from Maryland Heights,                                        81
2018  2020 Views at Chambersburg,                                90
VIEWS IN AND ABOUT SARATOGA SPRINGS.
3996  View from the front of the United States Hotel, looking down
Broadway,                                               201
4051  Front of the Union Hotel, looking down Broadway, -..., 201
4057  Group of Actors on the Stage of Leland's Opera House, - - -    201
4058 Entrance to Congress Hall, -                                201
4067  4066 Congress Spring,.-.............................. 201




414                   CATALOGUE OF VIEWS.
NO. VIEW.                                                   NO. PAGE.
4075  4074 Columbia Spring,. s-.......................... 201
4078  Reservoir in Congress Spring Park, -.                       201
4079  Entrance to the Washington Spring, -                        201
4081 4080 Washington Spring, -201
4084 4083 Saratoga Spring,_ -.                                    201
4088 4087 Empire Spring,. -                                       201
4092 4091 High Rock Spring, -... —.                               201
4100 Congress Street and Park, -.......... 201
INSTANTANEOUS VIEWS, NEW YORK.
308  Broadway, from the balcony of St. Germain's, looking north,
showing the Worth Monument and the spires of the Collegiate Church and the Tabernacle,.. -   -188
904  905, Omnibuses starting from South Ferry, N. Y., --------  188
900  Bird's eye view of New York City, from Shot Tower, -----   184
3696  The junction of Chatham and Center streets, from Printing
House Square,.........-      -. 184
2950  2952, 2956, the Funeral of President Lincoln, New York,
April 25th, 1865,... -  -93
5078  5079, 5080, Broadway, from  the corner of Broome street,
looking up,................ —-.... 184
5337  Looking north from the corner of Fulton street, showing
Broadway and City Hall Park, - -----------------------   184
5093  Broadway-Burst of Sunshine after a'Shower, - -184
5095  Broadway on a Rainy Day-        —, -    -................. 184
2121  Looking up the East River from the Roosevelt St. Ferry,.._   184
MAJESTY AND BEAUTY OF NIAGARA.
639  The American Fall, from the Canada side, near the Museum,   177
644  The American Fall, from the Museum grounds, Canada side,   177
868  The Scenery of the Niagara,. -                   -         177
1943  The Suspension Bridge, from Canada side,-       -.         179
1949  The Suspension Bridge, from the Monteagle House, -------    179
1951  The Rapids, looking towards the Three Sisters,- -           177
1952  Horse Shoe Fall, from the Canada side,     --  ----         177
1967  1968, View from Lewiston Mountain, looking towards Lake
Ontario, -180
1969  View looking down the river from Terrapin Tower, —----    177
1973  Gate and Carriage Way, Suspension Bridge,..179
1974 Table Rock, Canada side,         -        -179
1976  Sectional view of Suspension Bridge, -       -              179
1985  The Clifton House, from the Museum grounds, Canada side,   179
1982  1987, The American Fall, from the Museum grounds, -----   177
2977  The Falls from Point View, American side, -       -         177
2980  Terrapin Tower and Horse Shoe Fall, from  Goat Island, ---    177
$007  Bridge to Goat Island, -............................       179
3729  The Suspension Bridge, Niagara Falls, -                     179
3732  Table Rock and Clifton House,                              179
3736  Table Rock and Horse Shoe Fall,      -..            179
5392  From  Point View, American side,                            177
5798  The Horse Shoe Fall, from the Custom House,  -- --          177
5801 Horse Shoe Fall,           -          -- 177
6010  The Falls from Victoria Island,                             177
6043  Cataract House, from Goat Island Bridge,-      -      -    179




CATALOGUE OF VIEWS.                      415
NO. VIEW.                                                 NO. PAGE.
6047  General View of the Suspension Bridge, Canada side, —--    179
6056 American Fall, from the Hog's Back, showing the heavy ice
mounds,. 178
6070  Snow and Sunshine on Luna Island Bridge —   178
6011 The Falls, from Victoria Island, -                        177
6018  The American Fall, from below,. -----------              177
1387  The Suspension Bridge, Niagara,                          179
BEAUTIES OF THE HUDSON.
343 354 West Point from Fort Putnam,..-.............,.  199
349  A View from Fort Putnam, —----   199
356  Mount Taurus from Stony Point,                           175
423  View from Cold Spring, looking north, (West Point,)-     199
359  367 West Point. View from the Cemetery,                  199
519  From West Point looking north,                           199.377 Sugar Loaf and Anthony's Nose, from Garrison's,    _ -   175
380  Mount Taurus from Cold Spring,                           175
392  West Point from Cold Spring, —--   199
1344  Above Cold Spring, Breakneck on the right,               175
4121  Along Shore View. Storm King in the distance,            174
4125  4126 Beach below Moodna, looking south,                  174
4127  From the mouth of the Moodna, looking south,-            174
4150  View from a spur of the Storm King, Breakneck Hill in the
distance,                         --         --        175
4152  View at Cornwall, Polypus Island in the distance, -- --   175
4156  Fishkill Landing, with Newburg and Snake Hill in the distance, ---------------— 175
4172  Howland's Mansion, Fishkill,                             198
4173  4174 4175 Landscape view from Howland's Mansion, Fishkill. Newburg in the distance, —                       198
4183  Washington's Headquarters at Newburg, N. Y.,              175
5374  View from Breakneck looking north. Polypus Island in the
distance,.                                      175
5579  The Fisherman's Hut. Storm King and Breakneck in the
distance,            -  - -------------------. ----  175
5583  Bird's-eye View of Cornwall, from Round Top, -            174
5581  Road on Round Top overlooking the Hudson, — ----    174
343  354 West Point from Fort Putnam,                         199
5952  Bird's-eye View of Yonkers, from the Palisades,-         174
5955  Looking down the River from the Palisades. Fort Washingington in the distance,                                174
5963  5962 Profile View of the Palisades,                      174
5964  The Palisades above Fort Lee, -                    --    174
GLENS OF THE CATSKILLS.
394  The Kauterskill Fall from the Staircase,                 173
396  The Kauterskill Fall from the Bluff,   -   -173
400  Kauterskill Falls from below the second Fall,.      173
405  Terrace Cascade in the Kauterskill Gorge, -  -           173
406  407 The, Bastion Fall,,                       --    173
409  410 View from the top of Kauterskill Falls, - -173
415.1340 Catskill Mountain House, from North Mountain,-      173
1589  Catskill Mountain House, near view, -..             173
4199  The five Cascades below Haines' Fall,   -   -            173




416                   CATALOGUE OF VIEWS.
NO. VIEW.                                                   NO. PAGE.
4207  4208 View from the top of Haines' Fall. South Mountain in
the. distance,.-............ 173
4213  42145. View from the top of the Kauterskill Fall looking down
the Glen,.-.-                                           173
4215  The Bastion Fall, Kauterskill Glen, near the Laurel House,.  173
5757  4217 The Kauterskill Fall, near the Laurel House, -------   173
VIEWS IN  WASHINGTON CITY, AND DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA.
226: The United States Treasury Building at Washington,..... 227
226  Interior view. Retiring room of the United States Senate,.. 126:1309  South front of the White House,    -       -127
1315  The Navy and War Department,_.            -                 127
1316 The Post Office, - -                 -                       227
1323  The Smithsonian Institute, -. —--------- -------------     228
1325  Smithsonian Institute Grounds-Capitol in the distance,__    228
1326  Lafayette Square; Jackson's Statue in the distance,        227
1333  Washington Monument,................ —---------- —.   228
1991  Clark Mills' Equestrian Statue of Washington, - -227
2732  The President's House, Washington,   -       -227
2733  President's Summer House, Washington, -------- ---------  227
2743  Picturesque view  of Georgetown, the Potomac, and the
Chesapeake Canal, from rear of the observatory, -------   225
2747  View of the Potomac and the Washington Monument, ----   228
2981  Pennsylvania Avenue, looking north from Metropolitan Hotel  227
2982  Statue of Civilization, byGreenough, —-    226
2986  White House; front view, -  -226
2987  The Treasury Buildings; east front,..    227
6453  6452, The Post Office from S. E. and S. W., —              227
6455 The War Department,   -                -                    227
6456 The Navy Department,  --              -                     227
6457 East Capitol Square,   -               -227
6459  Walk in the East Capitol Square,. —----------------.-.   227
6461  6462, Marble Statue of Washington (by Greenough) in East
Capitol Square, -                 -                      227
6464; West Capitol Grounds or Park,    -         -               227
465  View in the United States Botanical Garden, west side of the
Capitol,........... ------. —----.. -       227
6466  The Capitol from the Botanical Gardens,                    227
6467  The United States Capitol from Maryland avenue, (distant
view),            ----        ----- ---       ---       227
6470  The Capitol from  East Capitol Square; Marble Statue of
Washington in the foreground,....... —-..        227
6471  6472, The Capitol from East Capitol Square, -  - -225
6473  6474, 6475, East front of the Capitol from north-east, - - -    225
6479  East front of the Capitol from south-east,   --..    225
6484  Western entrance to the U. S. Capitol,   -    -            226
6485  6486, Eastern portico of the Capitol, -- -    -226
6490  6491, Statue of Columbus and Indian Girl, (by Persico),.-_   226
6492  6493, 6494, Statue of Civilization, (by Greenough), --------   226
6595  9496, Statue of A. Lincoln, in the Rotunda of the Capitol,.. 226
6497  6498, Statue of Ceres, or Peace, (by Persico), - -     226
6499  Statue of Mars, or War, (by Persico),                      226
6500  Brumidi's Allegorical Painting in the dome of the Capitol,    226
6501  West or Middle Room, Congressional Library of the Capitol,  226




CATALOGUE OF VIEWS.                       417
NO. VIEW.                                                  NO. PAGE.
6'502  North Room, Congressional Library of the Capitol, -------   226
6503  Bronze Statue of Jackson, in Lafayette Square, (by Clark
Mills),-, -------------------------— 227
6504  Statue of Jefferson, in the lawn, Executive Mansion grounds,  227
6506  6607, 6508, South Front of White House, fountain in foreground, --         ------—, -  227
6509  The Executive Mansion, south front,     -    -             227
6511  The President's House, south front,. - -227
6513  The President's House, north front, -------------------    2276516  President's House, from eastern carriage entrance, --------  227
6519  6520, The White House, from Treasury buildings,. —-----   227
6524  6526, The U. S. Treasury, from the south-west,             227
6530  U. S. Patent Office, east front, --    -                   227
6631  U. S. Patent Office, south front, -                        227
6533  Model Room, U. S. Patent Office,                           227
6534  - Blue Corridor, U. S. Patent Office,                      226
PUBLIC BUILDINGS IN NEW YORK CITY AND BROOKLYN.
1284  Plymouth Church, Brooklyn, Rev. Henry Ward Beecher,.    189
1285  Christ Church, Brooklyn, E. D., Rev. Mr. Patridge,. -- 189
912  N. Y. Academy of Music, cor. 14th street and Irving Place,.  187
1656  Church of the Puritans, Rev. Dr. Cheever,  -    -189
1587 Fifth Avenue Hotel, New York,   -           -187
1588  Church of the Holy Trinity, Brooklyn, Rev. Dr. Littlejohn,.   189
2245  Fifth avenue and 37th street, looking north, - -           185
3699 City Hall, from Broadway,   -             -                 185
3704  Rutger's Institute, corner of 5th avenue and 42d street, - -  186
3950  View of City Hall from Broadway, -         -185
4624  Hoffman House, Broadway and 24th street,                   187
4402 Cooper Institute, -        -          -187
4615  Free Academy, East 23d street and Lexington avenue, ----   186
4793  New York University from Washington Parade Ground, - -. 186
4997  The St. Nicholas Hotel from corner of Broome street, 
5082  U. S. Treasury, corner of Wall and Nassau streets, -------   186
5084  Trinity Church,_..                                         187
5090  Entrance to City Hospital, view from Broadway, ---- -----   186
5089  City Hospital, view from south side,        -------         186
5092  City Hospital, view from north side,. —.        186
5308  Mercantile Library Association  Building, (Clinton Hall,)
Astor Place,... —.                  187
5310 Fifth Avenue Hotel,    -               -187
5172  The Broadway Bridge, including St. Paul's Church and the
Astor House, ---                 --   188
5808  Broadway and City Hall Square from Fulton street,. —--     185
6294 National Academy of Design,   -            -186
6598 6599 City Hall,.-.....................-  185
6601  Looking down Wall street from Trinity spire, ------------   185
6602  Looking across the Hudson, from Trinity spire, - --        184
6603  Up Broadway, from Trinity spire,      -     -.             184
6828  A. T. Stewart's Retail Store,   -        -187
BROOKLYN NAVY YARD.
6717  Looking down from the entrance, ---                        189
6721 Shot and Shell Pyramids,-                                   189
27




418                  CATALOGUE OF VIEWS.
NO. VIEW.'                                                NO. PAGE.
6722  Pyramids of Shot,.-. —-------------------—. —--         189
6723  Shell Pyramids, ----------   ---------------   189
6725  The Torpedo Boat, Midge,...                    189
WEST POINT VIEWS.
4279  View of West Point from the Cemetery,-. —-------- ----   199
4283  Arsenal and portion of Sea View Battery, W. P. M. A., -    199
4285  Sea View Battery, —---------------------- --.-   199
5769  North-east corner of Cadet Barracks, looking north-west
over plains, -                                         199
5775  Plain of West Point from area of Cadet Barracks, looking
north, ----— 199
West Point from R. R. Tunnel at Garrisons, --—.. —- -- --   199
VIEWS ON THE SOUTHERN TIER OF THE ERIE RAILROAD.
670  At Elmira-View on the Chemung, looking up the river,..-   200
671  Owego, and Valley of the Susquehanna,                    201
760  Owego, from Evergreen Cemetery, looking south, -         201
701  Bird's-eye view of Owego from the north, Susquehanna river
in the distance, —............ -. 201
657  View at Lackawaxen, looking down the Delaware river, -—.   210
754  View of Port Jervis, from the east,                       202
753 View near Port Jervis, -            -                      202
755  764, View from the Deep Cut, near Port Jervis,   -        202
744  Down the Neversink, near Port Jervis,                    202
5602  Owego, view from Evergreen Cemetery,.....          201
WHITE MOUNTAIN VIEWS, N. H.
4403  Summit of Mount Lafayette from  the top of Canon Mountain, -                                                145
4409  4410, Profile or Canon Mountain,...-145
4412  Silver Forest on Canon Mountain, -                        145
4413 Summit of Canon Mountain, -145
4427  Echo Lake from  the Boat House, showing the summit of
Mount Lafayette,.-............._.... 145
4430  4429, Echo Lake from the outlet, showing the Notch, -.... 145
4447  South-east side of Canon Mountain,                  -     145
4449  The Franconia Notch, from the Profile House,-,         145
4453  4787, 4454, East side of Canon Mountain, -..              145
HILLS AND DALES OF NEW ENGLAND.
454  In the Gold Miner's Glen, Plymouth, Vt.-                  150
577  The Passumpsic at St. Johnsbury, Vt.  The village in the
distance.-...............- 152
596  Looking north from Ox Bow Cliff, Waterford, Vt., -------  152
599  View across the Passumpsic at St. Johnsbury, Vt., -------  152
772  The Crossings; View of Village of St. Johnsbury Center, Vt.,  152
761  Village of St. Johnsbury Centre, Vt.,-                    152
122  221, Prof. Wise inflating his Balloon, Ganymede at St. Johnsbury, Vt.,.-..........................-.             152
VALLEY OF THE RAMAPO, ERIE RAILWAY.
6244  Hotel and Turner's Station, Erie Railroad,                176
6249  The old Albany Post Road, below Turner's Station, looking
east, - ----------------— a —                          176




CATALOGUE OF VIEWS.                         419
NO. VIEW.                                                     NO. PAGE.
6250 Valley of the Ramapo, below Turner's Station, looking up
the clove towards Newburg,       -176
6256  The Valley at Greenwood, Erie Railroad, -        -176
6259  At Greenwood,  --------------— 176
6263  Bridge over the Ramapo, at Greenwood,   -        -176
6265  The everlasting Hills,-                                       176
6266  The Valley below Greenwood Station,.                        176
6270  Erie Railroad at Southfield in the Ramapo valley, ---------   176
6276  The Dam and Terrace House at the Village of Ramapo, --        176
6278  At the Village of Ramapo,-.. —---------------------   176
6279  View of Southfield from the Church,                           176
6280  The Dam at Ramapo, ----------------                           176
6281 The Windings of the Ramapo,              -         --    176
6283  Quiet on the Ramapo,                                          176
6251  Valley of the Ramapo between Turner's and Greenwood
Station,      --------------------- ------                 176
6260  Greenwood Furnace in the Ramapo valley,.       176
6275  Terrace House, Torn Mountain in the distance,- -              176
GREENWOOD CEMETERY VIEWS.
948  Tomb of W. W. Grosbeck, Dale avenue, Crescent Water
foreground, -.. —-----------------------------             192
1487 The Fountain, on Fountain Hill, -                              190
1592 Monument of Henry Ruggles,.-.- - -192
2185  2186 2187 Monument of Miss Charlotte Canda, Battle ave.,.   191
2189  New Entrance to Greenwood Cemetery,                           190
5290  2191 The Sea Captain's Monument, on Vista Hill,       - -------    192
2192 Monument of De Witt Clinton, -                            -  190
2197  Crescent Lake,                 ---- ---------------   190
5271  View on Willow avenue. New Gateway in the distance, - -    190
5278  Crescent Water, Dale avenue, —--                              190
5279  Sylvan Water,          ----------                      190
5280  Niblo's Tomb, Dale avenue,                  -  192
5282 Monuments on Ocean Hill,. -                                   190
6842  From Vine Dell looking towards Ocean Hill, -190
PASSAIC FALLS, PATTERSON, NEW  JERSEY.
2132  2131 2130 Bird's-eye view of Patterson, -                     204
2138  2140 2136 2134 Passaic Falls, (different views,)..204
CENTRAL PARK VIEWS.
1065  From the Bell Tower, looking south,  The Terrace and Mall
in the distance, -                                         185
1066  From Bell Towser, looking south-east,            -— 185
1068  From the Summer House, north-west of 6th ave. entrance,_   185
1075  The Mall, looking north,           ---------— 185
1078  Grounds east of the Mall, now temporarily occupied by the
animals for the Zoological collection, —                   185
1079  From the Casino, looking north-east, —       --------        185
1081  The Valley.  Harlem Plains in the distance,                  185
1096  Transverse Road No. 2, south of Old Reservoir,...    185
1102  The Cave, -                        ---------------- ---       185
1108  A Music Day on the Park,         --------          ----      185
1113 1111 Swans on the Lake,-. D.. 185




420                   CATALOGUE OF VIEWS.
NO. VIEW.                                                   NO. PAGE.
1121  The Lake, with the Bow Bridge in the distance, ---          185
1124  Bronze Group of Eagles and Alpine Goats, west of the Mall,  185
1137  The Music Pavilion, -      -- -------               ----   185
1138  From Walk near Artist' Gate, 6th avenue and 59th street entrance, looking east. Old Arsenal in the distance, -----    185
1162 Lake and Bow Bridge, -                                       185
1887  1888 Rustic Bridge near West Drive,                         185
3712  3705 Instantaneous View of the Lake from the Terrace, ---   185
3716  3714 Rustic Bridge, near the 8th avenue, - - - --- - ---    185
3725  3726 3727 The Music Stand,                                  185
4503 5350 The Terrace,            - - -185
4804  4798 Skating Scene in Central Park       - - -,             185
4406  4407 View in the Ramble, -        -       --— 185
5911  5912 The Camel and his Rider,              -    -185
5914  The Fountain on the Mall,                                   185
5917  The Fountain. The Esplanade of the Terrace, the Lake and   185
Ramble in the distance, -185
6204  Ornamental Water west of the Conservatory,                  185
6208  The Casino and Statue of " Auld Lang Syne,"                 185
6233  6217 6231 The Fountain on the Mall,                         185
CALIFORNIA  VIEWS.
i The Yo-Semite Valley, -297
3  2 The Yo-Semite Fall, 2500 feet high,.-.                   297
4  The Bridal Veil, 937 feet high, near view,                  297
5  Fall on the South Fork, 600 feet high,                      298
6  Nevada Fall, with South Dome and Valley,                    298
9  8 Nevada Fall, 600 feet in hight,.         -                298
13 The Big Tree in Mariposa Grove, -                            298
14  Vernal Fall, 600 feet in hight,-..................... 298
21  19 17 Scene in a Canon,                                     297
23 The South Dome, 4967 feet high, -                            298
26  Tu-to-con-u-u-ta, 3039 feet high, -                         298
28 The North Dome, 3729 feet high, -                            298
22 The Domes, -298
29  The South Dome from the South Fork,                        298
35 View on the Merced River, -.................. 298
33  From the top of Vernal Fall, looking west, -               298
39  Group of Big Trees in Mariposa Grove,.-................. 295
45  52 Panoramic View of San Francisco taken from the corner
of Sacramento and Taylor streets,. -299
40  Group of Big Trees in Mariposa Grove,-............. 295
42  78 The Heads; entrance to the Bay of San Francisco. Golden Gate in the distance, -299
60 South Park, San Francisco, -                -               299
67  View of Sacramento, ---                       -            299
VIEWS IN CUBA.
15  164, Cocoanut trees in the Bishop's garden, Havana, ------  330
18  The large Cactus, in the Bishop's garden, Havana,.   330
19  The avenue of Royal Palms, in the Bishop's garden, Havana,   330
20  An Instantaneous View. The Harbor of Havana,                329
22  An Instantaneous View. The steamer DeSoto leaving the
harbor of Havana,                                        329




CATALOGUE OF VIEWS.                       421
NO. VIEW.                                                   NO. PAGE.
24  134, Pan. view of Havana, from Tacon Prison, looking W.,  329
25 26, 27, Bird's-eye view of the Harbor and City of Havana,
from the Castle Cabana. —-------------          --    329
31 32, The Moro Castle and the entrance to the Harbor of Havana, from the Cabana,-. —----------- ---  ---------   330
39  A street view from the Dominica.  A company of Spanish
troops returning from Mass, --— 329
44 An Instantaneous view of the Dashing Spray, Harbor of
Havana, with Moro Castle in the background,              330
53  A panoramic view of the Church of San Domingo, Havana,   330
60  Front view of the Cathedral where the remains of Columbus
are deposited, —------------    330
71  Plantation view. Avenue in Orange Grove, ---               330
88  160, View of the Castello Atares, where the fifty Fillibusters were executed,                                      328
148  Bird's-eye view of the Harbor and City of Havana, from the
Castle Cabana, — -----                     -------       329
VIEWS IN EL ECUADOR.  (THE ANDES.)
1197  Street in Riobamba, with  "Chimborazo, the Monarch of
Andes," in the distance,        ----------— 334
1203  View upon the volcanic deposit of lava thrown from the crater of Tunguragua during an eruption, April 23, 1773,__.  335
1211  Ambato. This town is 8,540 feet above the sea, and has a
climate that produces strawberries and peaches all the year,  338
1212  Peach Orchards of Ambato, looking up the valley, -....... 337
1213  View looking across the Valley of Ambato,-                 337
1217  Volcano of Cotopaxi, from its base. Hight, 18,860 ft. above
the sea, ----------   - --------------. —------   334
1218  Cotopaxi, from near Lake Tacunga,          ---    -   334
1220  Bird's-eye view of Quito, the capital of the Republic, from
the top of Panacillo, a hill rising 700 feet above the city,
upon the south, --------                    ---------    338
1221  Bird's-eye view of Quito, looking east by north from Panacillo,.. —. —------—.                       338
1222  View of Qtiito, with Panacillo in the background,_ ----    338
1233  Government building, with the volcano of Pichincha in the
background, -      --------------—. 334
1235  Street and Fountain in Quito (Santa Barbara), -             338
1237  San Diego, Quito, with the Pantheon in the distance, looking
down from the top of Panacillo —--—,                    338
1239  Water Carriers at the Fountain of San Francisco, Quito,.. -    338
1242  Ibarra, the capital of Imbabura, the most northerly Province
of Ecuador,.-.                                          339
1243 Market in Ibarra, -...                                      339
1247  Mounted for ascending Pichincha, with the volcano in the
distance,      --------- ----- ----------------   334
1248  View within the crater of Pichincha, looking down from the
head of a ravine 1,050 feet below the top, and 1,410 feet
above the bottom; the entire depth 2,460 feet, —         334
1249  Looking down the valley from out the crater of Pichincha,_   334
1250  View within the crater of Pichincha, looking down from
the side of the great eastern wall,.. —---------    334
1255  Bird's-eye view of Quito,-           --------------         338




422                   CATALOGUE OF VIEWS.
NO. VIEW.                                                   NO. PAGE.
1260 Public Square in Quito,-8......... 338
VIEWS IN VENEZUELA.
2269  Decidedly Tropical; a street shaded by Cocoas and Palms in
Los Haticos,                       - -339
2270  A Cocoanut Grove in Los Haticos,    -       -339
2259  2260, 2261, 2264, 2271, Views in Maracaibo,.339
1917  Banana Plant (New Granada), ------------ ---------—..   -   337
1922  El Penol, a rock in Antioquia, (New Granada,) --            335
GLIMPSES OF THE GREAT WEST. MINNESOTA.
325  Falls of Minnehaha, in the merry spring time,- -,   292
334  Bridge over the Mississippi at St. Paul, 1,794 feet long, main
span 240 feet, top of bridge 113 feet above the water, - - -    292
925  926, 932, Fort Snelling, on the Mississippi,  - -292
927  931, The Falls of St. Anthony, on the Mississippi,. —,.... 292
929  930, The Falls of Minnehaha, Minnesota,  -      -292
11  14, 15, 16, Falls of Minnehaha,-                           292
30  Barn Bluff, at Red Wing, Minnesota, -        -             292
36  37, View at White Bear Lake,           --                  291
153  155, View in the Dalles of St. Croix, —.....   292
159  160, Views at Fountain Cave, St. Paul,     -   -           292
166  St. Anthony Falls, from Minneapolis,                -      292
VIEWS ON THE PENNSYLVANIA CENTRAL RAILROAD.
489 The Cresson Mountain House, situated on one of the highest
peaks of the Alleghanies,............- 210
525  Broad Top Mountain House, on the top of Broad Top Mountain, -.210
490  View from  near the summit of the Alleghanies, with iron
furnaces in  the  foreground, ---------------------------  209
492  East Slope of the Alleghanies, near the summit, - -209
510  On the Juniata, east of Tyrone City,-..... -- 210
513  516, 519, 522, 523, 524, Scenes on the Juniata,.-        210
DELAWARE WATER GAP.
2227  View from near the Kittatinny House, looking north,_ -... 209
2228  View from the River Bank, looking north towards the Gap,  209
SCENES IN CHINA.
9  Mandarin in Sedan Chair, and attendants,-                   388
14  Rev. C. F. Preston and friends on the parade ground, Canton, showing N. E. Gate of the city wall in distance, - - -    388
16  View on the parade ground, Canton, China,                   388
22  View in Macao, showing Fort on the hill,. --    -          388
25 26, Macao, China,.           - -388
10  Entrance to the Temple occupied by General Crawford, Canton, China, -..... 388
VIEWS OF NEW  HAVEN, CONNECTICUT.
3774  New Haven, Chapel Street, from Depot Tower,                 163
3776  New Haven, East Rock and Railroad, from Depot Tower, -_   163
3777  New Haven, looking towards Fair Haven, from Dep. Tower,  163
3778  New Haven, St. Paul's Church and Harbor, from Dep. Tower,  165
3779  New Haven, Harbor and Long Wharf, from Depot Tower,.. 165




CATALOGUE OF VIEWS.                         423
NO. VIEW.                                                     NO. PAGE.
3780 New Haven Harbor, looking towards Savin Rock, from Depot
Tower, -                                                   165
3782 3783, Temple Street, New Haven -                               164
TRENTON FALLS.
2032  High Fall, from store on west side, --------------------    175
2033  High Fall, from below,.    --      -----    --         175
2035  Lower Fall, near view-,                                       175
2036  Lower Fall, distant view,.-. —--                ------       175
VIEWS ABOUT LAKE GEORGE, N. Y.
6416  View from the Hotel Lawn, looking down the Lake ----          180
6420  Col. William's Monument, near Bloody Pond  -      -181
6434  View of'Lake George from the South. - -----          ---     180
6442  The Pavilion Hotel from  old Fort Ty, Vermont, and Lake
Champlain in the distance,              -                  181
6446  6445, General view of old Fort Ty, (Ticonderoga) from  the
South  — 181
6450  Parade Ground inside of Fort Ticonderoga, from the East       181
6447  Ruins of old Fort Ticonderoga, from the East  - -181
6451  Battle Field at Ticonderoga. —------ ----------. —-—.    181
6444  Looking north from old Fort Ty —---- -----                    181
THE VALLEY OF THE HOUSATONIC.
6310  6309 On the Housatonic River at Falls Village, Conn.,         162
6311  6312 6313 The Falls of the Housatonic at Falls Village, Conn.,  162
6337  Monument Mountain from the Ice Glen, Stockbridge, Mass.,  153
6338  On the Summit of Monument Mountain, Stockbridge, Mass.,  153
6340  6339 From the Summit ofMonument Mountain, looking north,   153
6343  6342 From the Summit of Monument Mountain, looking south,   153
6361  6360 The Natural Bridge, North Adams, Mass.,-                 154
VIEWS ABOUT BERGEN HILL.
5992  5991 Looking east from the Brow of the Hill. Hoboken in
the foreground and New York in the distance,.      204
5993  Looking south from the Brow of the Hill. Jersey City in
the distance,_.. —. 206
VIEWS IN JAPAN.
32  Foreign settlement at Nagasaki, Japan, taken from Decimra,    389
5529  550 Simonoseki,..........................,. —---  389'VIEWS IN WAYNE COUNTY, PENN.
5865  5864 Lower Falls of the Wallenpaupack, from  Cromwell's
Ledge,. —---------------------                   211
5867  5866 Lower Falls of the Wallenpaupack, from  Cromwell's
Ledge,. --------                              --------   211
5872  5871 Middle Falls of the Wallenpaupack, from  Hemlock
Ledge, ----------— 211
5876  The Delaware and Hudson Canal at the Narrows on the
Lackawaxen, -.                                             210
SCENERY AT LITTLE FALLS, ON THE MOHAWK, N. Y.
6619  Little Falls, from Lover's Rock,                             200
6620  Little Falls from Lover's Leap,              -.. 200




424                   CATALOGUE OF VIEWS.
NO. VIEW.                                                    NO. PAGE.
6622  Little Falls, Lover's Rock, looking north-west,              200
6634  6641, Locks and Dry Dock, Erie Canal, ----                   200
6636  6637, Falls and Bridge on the Mohawk river,s                 176
6638  6639, Profile Rocks, east and west sides, ---                200
6642  Little Falls, looking west,-                 ---- ----   200
6643  Little Falls, looking east,                                 200
VIEWS IN MONTREAL AND QUEBEC.
21227 Victoria Square, Montreal,             —...                313
20980 Beaver Hall, from Victoria Square, Montreal, ------          313
16710 View looking west across the city, from tower of French
Church, Montreal,. ——.. —-----------    313
16762 Court House, Montreal,-  -  313
21275 Great St. James Street, Montreal,.-........... 313
20851 Notre Dame Street, looking east, Montreal,                   313
16828 Wharves at Montreal, with steamers and bridge in distance,   313
17326 Marine Hospital, Quebec,-                     ---            314
MAMMOTH CAVE VIEWS, KENTUCKY.
5 Mouth of the Cave, -.                                        269
17  Deserted Chamber, Guide entering, equipped for the long
route, -...'269
18  Gorin's Dome. This is sixty feet wide and two hundred feet
high, the sides beautifully fluted is if by the hands of
skillful artists, -                                       269
19  Bridge of Sighs, over the far-famed " Bottomless Pit,". —    269
23  Wild Hall, surpassing in wierd gloom Dore's conception of
the inferno,                                              269
24  Snowball Arcade. A  regular arched way, the ceiling of
which is covered with white gypsum, resembling snow, -    269
25  Grand Crossing, showing two avenues, one passing over the
other,                                                    269
SCOTCH AND CONTINENTAL VIEWS.
984  Power's Court, Waterfall, County of Wicklow, (Ireland,) —    353
1009  General View of Paris, taken from the Pantheon, (France,)_  356
1393  Church of Notre Dame, (France,) —---                         357
1402  Champ de Mars, Ecole Militaire, (France,) — -   357
1579  St. George's Hall, Liverpool, (England,)-       ---------   346
1629  Panorama of Lyons, (France,)                 ---------       357
1631  General View of the Mer de Glace, Savoy, (France,) ------   355
1649  Osborn House, (Isle of Wight,)                               354
1739  Giant's Causeway, (Ireland,) —----   353
1797  Panoramic view of the Cathedral of Cologne, (Prussia,)       370
1805  Church of St. Peter and Obelisk at Rome,                     383
1834  New Houses of Parliament, London, (England,) —---            344
1902  Ice Glaciers, (Switzerland,)                                 359
1903   "            "   "                                          359
1904   "           "    "-. —--------                     359
2006  Ice Glaciers (Switzerland), —                                359
2010  Ice Glaciers, Switzerland, -- ----— 259
3959  Fingal's Cave, Staffa, (Scotland),                          349
3961  The mouth of the Clam Shell Cave, Staffa, ----------        349
3963  Windsor Castle. The Garden Terrace, (England), ------    347




CATALOGUE OF VIEWS.                       425
NO. VIEW.                                                  NO. PAGE.
3964  Windsor Castle. The Garden Terrace, (England). —----    347
3967  Balmoral Castle, from the south-west, (Scotland),. —--—. —   352
3968  Sir Walter Scott's Monument, Edinburg, (Scotland), ------  350
3974  In the Pass of Killie Crankie, (Scotland,)       ---      351
3975  Loch Katrine. The Boat House, (Scotland,).        ---   349
3981  Drummond Castle. The Garden from the Terrace, -------   352
4235  Windsor Castle. The Norman Gate, (England,) ---------  347
4236  Taymouth Castle, from the Fort, (Scotland,)    -. -352
4250  Fingal's Cave, Staffa, (Scotland,)        -     -          349
4355  Durham Cathedral. The Galilee and Lady Chapel, (Eng.,)    348
4461  Rue Rivoli, showing a portion of the Palace of Tuilleries,
(France,)     -— 357
4484  General View of Rome from the Cupola of St. Peter's, ------  383
4485  The Vatican, Rome, (Papal States,) ----                    384
4486  General View of the Vatican, Rome, (Papal States,) ------   348
4499  Abbotsford. The Garden Front, (Scotland,) —          ---   352
4500  Windsor Castle. The Round Tower, (England,) ------         347
4505  Roof of Henry's VII. Chapel, Westminster, (England,)       344
4700  Canton of Valois. Superior Glacier of Rhone, (Switzerland,)  365
4701  Balmoral Castle from the north-west, (Scotland,)          352
4702  Warwick Castle. The Cedar Drawing Room, (England,).-_   347
4715  Road to the Obsides of the Cathedral of Cologne, (Prussia,)_   370
4730  North Wales. Conway Castle,  -       -----    354
4739  Myrite Grove, Youghal, County of Cork, built in 1656;
formerly the residence of Sir Walter Raleigh, (Ireland,)-.  354
4741  The Presbyterian College, Belfast, (Ireland,) —     ---   354
4742  The Custom House, Belfast, (Ireland,)       - -----        354
4746  The Rotunda, Dublin, (Ireland,)     -     -    -353
4747  Frindloter Church, Dublin, (Ireland,) -----------------   353
4750  Birkhall, the Highland residence of the Prince of Wales,
(Scotland,)                                             352
4825  Grand Crevasses on the Mer de Glace, Savoy, (France,) - -    355
4827  Grotto of Ice. Glacier of the Bossons, Savoy, (France,) - -    355
4830  View of the Wetterhorn at Grindelwald, (Switzerland,).- -     361
4836  Staubbach Falls. Valley of Lauterbrunnen, (Switzerland,)   360
4866  Bridge of Milan in the Via Mala, (Switzerland,)  --        363
4873  View in the Valley of the Linth, (Switzerland,)  ---       364
4885  The Elysian Fields and the Triumphal Arch, Paris, ------   356
4889  Entrance to the Arsenal, Vienna, (Austria,)  --------      367
4891  The Belvedere Facade, Vienna, (Austria,)-    ------        367
4902  The Port of Naples, (Italy,) —      ----------------       377
4903  Entrance to the Royal Palace, Naples, (Italy,).. -        377
4919  Grand Eruption of Mount Eitna, near Catane, (Italy,) ----   375
4920  Panorama of St. Sauveur, taken from Solferino, (France,) - -    355
4931  Panorama of Luz, taken from Solferino, (France,) -------   355
4944  View on the Canal, Hamburg, (Germany,)        -- -         371
4953  The Royal Institute, Edinburg, from the south-west, (Scotland,)            -----------                           350
4955  Crystal Palace, Sydenham, (England,)  __ —-----------      345
4956    "      "                     "                           345
4958    "       "        "      The Byzantine Court, (Eng.,)    345
4961    "       "            "     "    "       "      " -    345
4962  Parliament House. General View of (London, England,)-.-  344
4968 House of Lords, London, -         - - -                     344
28




426                  CATALOGUE OF VIEWS.
NO. VIEW.                                                 NO. PAGE.
4969  Wells Cathedral; the west front, (England,)               348
4970  Exeter Cathedral from the south-east, (England,)          348
4971  Well's Cathedral from the south-east, (England,) —        348
4978  Colonnade of Formi, Circle, Pompeii, (Italy,)- -          374
4979  Cathedral of Milan, (Italy,)...                      378
4980  Panorama of Venice, side of St. Marks, (Italy,). —-- -------   379
4981  Hotel of the Queen of England, on the Lake of Como (It.),  376
4983  Buckingham Palace, London (England),                      344
4987  Panoramic view of the Lake of Como (Italy), ----- --------  376
4988  Crystal Palace, Sydenham. The Fine Art Court, --------  345
5008  Balmoral Castle, from the south-east (England), -----     352
5010  Inverary Castle, seat of the Duke of Argyle (Scotland),... 352
5012  Greenwich Hospital (England),            _                346
5031  Place of the Royal Palace, Paris (France)  357
5035  General view of the Amphitheatre of Santa Maria Maggiore,
(Italy), —..-              - - -  - -      - -        380
5037  The Arena at Verona (Italy) -- --       -                 380
5038  Interior of the Royal Palace, Naples (Italy),             377
5039  View of Naples, taken from the Ghiatamono (Italy), ------  377
5041  St. Peter's, Rome (Papal States),.  -      -383
5051  Library of the Vatican, Rome (Papal States),          384
5060  Boulevard of Sebastopol (France),    -     -356
5061  Gallery of Statues, Museum of the Vatican, - -384
5064  Ball Room, Buckingham Palace, London,  -      -344
5068  The Pitti Palace, Florence, (Italy),  -- --            377
5069  Ceremony of the Benediction, Easter day, Rome, (Pap. St.),  383
5070  The Parlor, Buckingham Palace, London, (England), -.-.. 344
5108  The Papal Benediction at Rome, - - - -.-                  383
5202  Reception Parlor, Windsor Castle, (England),              347
5206  Interior of the Library of the Vatican, Rome,. --         384
5209  Interior of the Library of the Vatican, Rome,- -         384
5218  Door to St. Denis, Boulevard Montmorenci, —_............ 356
5219  Instantaneous view. Boulevard of the Emperor, Paris, -.-  356
5232  Sculptured Columns in Central America,  -     -.     101
5233  Sculptured Columns in Central America,-       -_.. 101
5238  View in the interior of the Glacier of Grindelwald, --------  361
5241  Mount Blanc, and Panorama of Chamounix, -      -355
5355  The Bell of Ivan-Velilsan, Kremlin, Moscow, - -373
5357  View of the Kremlin, Moscow, (Russia,)   -   -373
5358 Coliseum, Rome,   -                 -                   382
5381  St. Paul's London,                                        343
5489  Museum of Louvre, Hall of Apollyon,   -     -             357
5491  The Royal Chateau, Berlin, (Prussia,)                     370
5496  Osborn House, Isle of Wight, (English Channel,)..........    354
5610  Interior of the Cavern of Ice, Grindelwald, (Switzerlanid,)__>  361
5620  Loch Archray and Ben Venue, (Scotland,)                   348
5622  Balmoral Castle, from the south-east, (Scotland,)         352
5627  Loch Katrine, from above the Trossach's Pier, (Scotland,)    349
5628  Holyrood Palace, Edinburgh, from  the Queen's Park, (Scotland,). —---------                                     350
5654  Instantaneous View of the Boulevard of Sebastopol, Paris,    356
5656  View taken from the Tower of Ivan-Velik, Moscow, (Russia,)  373
5726 Temple of Venus, Pompeii, (Italy,) -        -              374
5728  Tomb of Nevalois and Diomede, Pompeii, (Italy,) --        374




CATALOGUE OF VIEWS.                      427
NO. VIEW.                                                  NO. PAGE.
5729  General View of Naples, (Italy,) -377
5732  Valley of Lauterbrunnen. The Staubbach view of the route,
(Switzlerland,)                  ------ ------          360
5737 Versailles, (Park,)    -             -258
5741  Drumnadrochit, Glen Urquhart, (Scotland,)     - ---       351
5950  The Basin of Latone, Versailles, (France,)-   -     -    358
6656  St. Paul's, London, (England,) —---------                 343
6657  The Tower of London, (England,)..    343
SWISS AND AUSTRIAN  VIEWS.
294  View from Berg to Cannstatt, in Wurtemburg, (Germany,)    371
324  View of the Chateau of Neuburg, on the Danube, Bavaria,
(Germany,).- - -------  371
366  Neuhaus, on the Danube, (Germany,) —   372
371  The Bridge of the City of Linz, on the Danube, (Austria,) —  368
502  Cascade in the Gorge of the Simmen, and the Peaks of the
Amertenhorn, Canton Berne, (Switzerland,).              362
505  First fall in the Gorge of the Simmen, (Switzerland,) ------   362
523  View of the Kander at Bunderbach, with the summits of the
Birrenstock, Doldenhorn and Fissistock, Canton of Bern,
(Switzerland),         -          --- 362
542  Cottage near the Eschinensee, Berne, (Switzerland), —-,.. 362
543  The Doldenhern, view taken from the Eschinensee, Canton
Berne, (Switzerland)      -         -,62
546  Fragments of Rock, and Cascade of the Kander, in the Gorge
of the Gastern, (Switzerland),      -     -362
547  Bridge over the Kander in the Gorge of Gastern, (Switz.),    362
555  Gorge near Gastern, and view of the Schlithorn, (Switz.),.   362
596  Panorama of Appenzall, taken from the east, the Himmelburg in the distance, (Switzerland),                    366
656  Railway Station and Post Office at St. Gall,- -           366
657 Public Square in St. Gall,                                 366
682  View of the Prattigau at Grusch, (Switzerland),           364
683  View of the Prattigau from Schiersch, (Switzerland), ------  364
686  Baths of Fideris, in the Prattigau, (Switzerland), ---------   364
702  View at the Klosters, looking towards the Selveretta, (Sw'd)   364
715  Village of Malix, near Chur, in the Prattigau, (Switz.), -.. 364
723  Ruins of the Castle of Belfort, in the Valley of the Albula,
Canton Grisons, (Switzerland),    -     -363
737  Source of the Rhine at Albula, near Weissenstein, Grisons,
(Switzerland), —-                                       63
746  Alvaschein in the Grisons, (Switzerland), ---  -364
747  Gorge of the Albula, near Alvaschein, (Switzerland), -----  363
752  The Schyn-Pass, valley of the Albula, (Switzerland),. —.__   363
798  Chateau of Rhazuns, valley of Domlescho, (Switzerland), -    364
813  Gorge near the second bridge of Via Mala, Canton Grisons,
(Switzerland), -                -                      363
815  An old Bridge in the Gorge of Rofla, Via Mala, (Switz.), - - -    363
1120  Monument of the Virgin, at Vienna, (Austria),-            367
1121  Statue of the Emperor Joseph II., at Vienna, (Austria),... 367
PARIS AND PARIS EXPOSITION.
43  Instantaneous view of Paris, Boulevard of Sebastopol, France,  356
159  Triumphal Arch from the Trone, Paris, —---       --      356




428                   CATALOGUE OF VIEWS.
NO. VIEW.                                                   NO. PAGE.
6095  The French Park. Paris Exposition, -          -357
6118  Gallery of Machinery. French Section,                      357
6122  Crystal.  French Section,.................. —.   357
6147  Gallery of Machinery. English Section, -       -            357
6152  Crystal.  Austrian Section,       -     -     -             357
6157  Gallery of Machinery. Portuguese Section,                  357
6161  Gallery of Workmanship. Russian Section, -      -357
6168  The Egyptian Park. Paris Exposition, -....   357
6181  Gallery'of Workmanship. Italian Section,       -     -     357
6186  Saloon of Awards. Paris Exposition,   -       -357
6199  Panoramic view of the Building. Paris Exposition,.         357
VIEWS IN CALIFORNIA.
429  Black Point and Golden Gate, from  Telegraph Hill, San
Francisco,                                               299
430  The Presidio and Golden Gate, from Russian Hill, San Francisco,       ---------------------     ----              299
690  Swift's Station, Carson and Lake Bigler Road, eastern summit of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, -- —.               294
798  Hydraulic Mining, Timbucto Diggings, Yuba county, -----   296
803  Hydraulic Mining, the Pipe and Tank,    - - -296
875  The Sentinels; hight 315 feet; Mammoth Grove, Calaveras
County,...   ---------                                  295
878  Section of the original Big Tree; diameter 30 feet; Calaveras County,                                --       -    295
882  Big Tree Hercules, from a point 250 feet from the base, Calaveras County,    -— 295
887  Big Tree, Abraham Lincoln; hight, 281 feet, circumference,
44 feet,       -- ------------- ---                      295
907  Abraham  Lincoln, near view, 281 feet high, 44 feet in circumference, Calaveras County Big Tree Grove, -------     295
1107  The Three Brothers, 4,000 feet high, Yosemite Valley, Mariposa County,      ------            — 297
1109  The Three Brothers, reflected in the Merced river, Yosemite
Valley, Mariposa County,                                 298
1111  The Yosemite Fall, 2,634 feet high, Yosemite Valley, Mariposa County,            - - -..  297
1113  View down the Yosemite Valley, Cathedral Rocks in the distance, Mariposa County          - —,                    297
1114  The North Dome, 3,725 feet high, Royal Arch, and Washington Tower, Yosemite Valley, Mariposa County,             298
1118  Mirror Lake and Reflections, Yosemite Valley, Mariposa Co.,  298
1119  The Vernal Fall, 350 feet high,  "     "       "      "    298
1124  The South Dome, from the little "      "       "      "    298
1225  Mount Starr King, 5,600 f. high, "     "       "      "    298
1020  Placer Mining. The Flume and Boulders, Columbia, Toulumne County, —. -----—............ —------     --  296
1023  Placer Mines. The Boulder Range, Knapp's Ranch, Columbia, Toulumne County,-              -                    296
VIEWS ABOUT LAKE SUPERIOR AND VICINITY.
266  Bay of Marquette, Lake Superior,_..-......... 286
265  Ore Docks, Bay of Marquette, Lake Superior,                286
270  The Superior Iron Mine, Main Working,                      286




CATALOGUE OF VIEWS.                         429
NO. VIEW.                                                     NO. PAGE.
272 View in the Jackson Iron Mine, -              I                286
276  Ore Train and Vein in the Jackson Mine,                       286
CROSSING THE PLAINS TO MONTANA.
238  On the Plains, D. T.,..... —-    ---—. 306
239  Camp near Bonehill, crossing of James river, D. T.,........ 306
240. Camp on the Sand Hills, D. T.,   -          -306
242  241, Bluffs near Fort Berthold, — 307
245 Camp at White Bear Den, D. T.,   -            -306
248  247, Indian Teepees, or Wigwams,                  -           102
253  Trading Post, N. W. Fur Co., Fort Union, Montana,         -  306
VIEWS IN THE CITY OF CHICAGO.
143  37, 42, University of Chicago,       - -            --        265
47  City Hall, Chicago, Ill.,                   -264
49  Sherman House and Wood's Museum from Lasalle street, -_    265
50  Great Union Central Depot, south end,. -- --                266
75  52, Sherman House, corner of Clark and Randolph streets,    265
30  74, Michigan Southern Railroad Depot,..266
32  97, Chicago Waterworks,    — 265
43  100, Potter Palmer's Marble Store,..            -----   265
120  The Crib of the Chicago Lake Tunnel,   -        -266
121  Interior Section of the Chicago Lake Tunnel,  -   -          265
47  123, Lake street, from Illinois Central Depot,               264
132  263 Panorama of Chicago river from Randolph street, -----    263
188  Chicago river from Rush street bridge,.             263
189  Crosby's Opera House, Washington street,                     265
45  7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1, View from the Dome of City Hall, ----   262
36  Shipping, from Wells street bridge,    -      -              263
46  River Tunnel, Washington street.  (West,)                    264
58  Wabash avenue, south from Jackson street,  -      -265
59  Wabash avenue, north from Peck court, - -------------   265
61  Wabash avenue, south from Eldridge court,          -         265
71  Chicago river, north from Randolph street, —                  263
74  Interior of the Chamber of Commerce, -----------------   264
VIEWS ON THE LINE OF THE PACIFIC RAILROAD AND
ROCKY MOUNTAINS.
228  Union Pacific Railroad Works and Depot at Omaha,. —-   303
231 View of Omaha from Capitol Hill,   -          -303
288  Carmichael's Camp in the Black Hills, U. P. Railroad, ----   307
289  Mount Pisgah, Summit of Black Hills, --------- ----      -   307
291  Red Sandstone Rock, Laramie Plains, —-                        307
293   "       "       "       "      "          — 307
299  View of the Mountains near Big Thompson creek, --------   309
300  Hayden's Valley, near Big Thompson creek,               --   309
301  View of Canon and Long's Peak,    -          -       ---     308
302  View of Canon near Long's Peak --------—, -  -—.           308
303  View of the Mountains near Long's Peak,-         -.      308
304  Bears' Cathedral, near the Big Thompson, -..      -    309
308  Group of Indian Chiefs, Pawnee Tribe,.......- -...  105
310  Group of Indians and Mud Lodge in Pawnee Tribe, -------   105
311  Indian domestic life in the Pawnee Village,     -     -       105
312  Government School for Indians, Pawnee Reservation,. —-.     105




430                  CATALOGUE OF VIEWS.
NO. VIEW.                                                 NO. PAGE.
814 Indian Graves on the Pawnee Reservation,. —---- --------  103
315  Group of Ogalallah Sioux, at North Platte,   -     -.   105
VIEWS IN WISCONSIN.
31  Maiden Rock, Lake Pepin, Wisconsin side,  -   -289
24  Pulpit Rock, Wisconsin, --------------- - —.-    -      289
VIEWS IN ILLINOIS.
130  Abraham Lincoln's residence, Springfield, Ills., - -     262
View of the New State House,    "      "                 262
Panoramic View of Springfield, from Dome of State House,.. 262
The State Normal School, near Bloomington, Ills., - -.-... 268
Panoramic View of Rockford, Ills., from the east, looking west,  267
Panoramic View of Rockford, Ills., from top of Female Seminary,.. —----------—.   267
View of Public School, East Rockford, Ills.,             267
"' "    "    "    West   "        "                    267
("  "    "    "    South    "     "         ~-   -     267
View of the Seminary, Rockford,. - -.                    267
View on the Fair Grounds, Rockford,.             267
View in Floral Hall, County Fair, Rockford, -            267
VIEWS IN THE SOUTHERN STATES.
2294  2295, Marshall House, Alexandria, scene of Col. Ellsworth's
Assassination, -                                       73
2328  Bull Run Battlefield, Virginia,                           75
2329  Soldier's Graves, Bull Run Battlefield, Virginia, - --    75
2384  Position of the center of the Army at Gettysburg, - -....  84
2385  2386, Woods on the left wing, Battle of Gettysburg,      84
2387  Breastworks on the left wing, Battle of Gettysburg, ------   84
2392  Wheatfield where Gen. Reynolds was killed,                84
2394  2395, Gen. R. E. Lee's Headquarters, Gettysburg, ---------   84
2396  Gen. Meade's Headquarters, Gettysburg,..   84
2653  Knoxville R. R. Depot at Chattanooga; Lookout Mountain
in the distance. Group of Conscripts in the foreground,   84
2655  View of Lookout Mountain from the R. R. Depot, Chattanooga,                                            -    87
2659  2660, View from the top of Lookout Mountain, looking down
the Chattanooga Valley, ------------------              87
3047  View of Fort Sumter from the Bar, S. C., ---- -           85
3049  View of Fort Sumter, showing a mingled mass of debris,
shot and shell, and bursted guns,                       85
3053  View of Fort Sumter on the Parapet, overlooking the Harbor
and distant shore,                                      85
3135  3138, View from the Parapet of Fort Sumter, S. C., with
Charleston in the distance; taken April 14th, 1865, on the
occasion of the raising the old flag by Gen. Anderson, -_    92
3139  Interior of Fort Sumter, Charleston Harbor, S. C., April 14,
1865, pending the ceremony of raising the old flag, -.... 92
3140  Interior of Fort Sumter, Charleston IHarbor, S. C., April 14,
1865, Henry Ward Beecher delivering the oration on the
occasion of raising the old flag,-                  92
3149  View in the Arsenal Grounds, near the Petersburg Railroad
Bridge, Richmond, Va., showing shot, shell, and canister,
scattered around, -              -.. 91




CATALOGUE OF VIEWS.                     431
NO. VIEW.                                                NO. PAGE.
3171 3173, Panoramic view of Richmond, Va., from Libby Hill,
looking west; in the distance, Pontoon Bridge and Belle
Island, the place where so many union prisoners were confined,. —--------------- -----   -. -----— 230
3253 Panoramic view of Richmond, Va., from Gamble Hill, looking east. Lynchburg Canal and ruins of City Armory in
the foreground; in the distance, Church Hill,         230
3372 3373, Pontoon Bridge on the James river, Richmond, Va.;
in the middle ground are large Woolen Factories, -------   230
3540  Gen. Sherman's Headquarters, Savannah, Georgia,........ 90
3547  Gen. Sherman's Wagon Train, near Savannah, Georgia, - - -    90
3647  3648, 3649, The place where Maj. Gen. J. B. McPherson was
killed, Atlanta, Ga,, —--------------------             89
3661  3662, Pulpit Rock, Lookout Mountain, the place where Jeff.
Davis addressed the Confederate Armies, Tenn., -------    87
3663  Fortifications and Bombproofs, Atlanta, Ga.,             89
3666  View in the City of Atlanta, Ga.,                       240
3410  Quarter Deck and Starboard Battery of U. S. Ship Pawnee,
the Fighting Ship of U. S. Navy, taken at Charleston Harbor, S. C., -                                         237
3168  Washington Monument in the Capitol Grounds, Richmond,
Va. The statues around the center base, are those of
Patrick Henry, Thomas Jefferson, and Mason,. —---.-. 230
ALPINE CLUB.
67 Mont Rosa, taken from the Gorner Gratt, Switzerland,     365
77  Panorama of Interlaken, with Jungfrau in the distance,_-    363
89  The Wetterhorn in the Valley of Grindelwald, Switzerland,  361
90  View of the Wetterhorn, Grindelwald, Switzerland,-...... 361
103  Staubbach Fall, Valley of Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland,_-__   360
172  Panorama of Glarus and Glarnish Mountain, Switzerland,-  364
210  Mount Blanc, and panorama of Chamounix, France, -...2__ 355
215  View on the Mer de Glace, Chamouuix, Savoy, France,. -   355
216  Grand Pyramids on the Mer de Glace, Savoy, France, ------  355
221  The summit of Mount Blanc, and view of Servoz, France,     355
228  The Mer de Glace, Chamounix, Savoy, France, -.......... 355
274  The Jungfrau, taken in the Wengern Alps, Switzerland,   361
275  Hotel of the Jungfrau, Wengern Alps, Switzerland,. -.... 361
276  The Monch, view in the Wengern Alps, Switzerland, --—.  361
277  The Monch, and the Eiger, Wengern Alps, Switzerland, - - -   361
278  The Jungfrau, view on the Route of Murren, Switzerland,_.  361
299  General view of the Superior Glacier of Grindelwald, Switz.,  301
302  Interior of an Ice Cavern, Glacier of Grindelwald, Switz.,    361
ENGLISH AND SCOTCH VIEWS.
St. Paul's, South-west, England, -..... ---    343
The Tower of London, England, ----                      344
10  Loch Katrine, the path by the Loch, Scotland, ------- -.  349
13  Balmoral Castle, from the south-east, Scotland,         352
14  Balmoral Castle, from the river, Scotland,. —----    352
16  Clamshell Cave, Staffa, Scotland, -                     349
17  Fingal's Cave, Staffa, Scotland,                        349
19  The Thames. Eton College, England,                      347
43  Glasgow Bridge, Scotland,. -----------             351




432                   CATALOGUE OF VIEWS.
NO. VIEW.                                                   NO. PAGE.
45  Glasgow. View on the Clyde, Scotland, ---                   350
59  Loch Archray and Ben Venue, Scotland,-8.                  349
70  Guy's Cliff, from Mill Meadow, England,                    347
103  Abbotsford, from the river, Scotland,.- - - -352
111  Edinburgh Castle, from Princess street, Scotland, --------   350
114  Sir Walter Scott's Monument, Edinburgh, Scotland, ------   350
131  Ely Cathedral; view from the Park, England,.      348
132  Balmoral Castle, from the south-west, Scotland, - -        352
134  Balmoral Castle, from the north-west, Scotland, - -        352
145  Fingal's Cave, Staffa, Scotland,   -       -349
201  The city of Oxford, from the top of Magdalen Tower, Eng.,  347
440  Balmoral Castle, from the south-east, Scotland,             352
443  Windsor Castle-the Garden Terrace, England,. — 347
445  Windsor Castle-the North Terrace, England,                  347
471  In the Pass of Killiecrankie, looking towards Ben-y-gloe,
Scotland,                     -351
478  Blair Athole, from Tulloch Hill, Scotland,  -  -           351
480  Bridge of Tilt, looking towards Ben-y-gloe, Scotland, -----   351
485  Taymouth Castle, from the Fort, Scotland, - - -            352
490  Peterborough Cathedral, from the south-east, England, -.. 348
496  Drummond Castle, from the Garden, Scotland, - -348
497  Drummond Castle, from the Garden, Scotland, ----------    348
508  Loch Zummel-the Queen's View, Scotland,.... ——, ----    348
530  Abbotsford-the Garden Front, Scotland, - -,                352
668  View from above Tarbot, Loch Lomlond, Scotland, --------  349
730  Ben Nevis, from above Banavie, Scotland,  -    -           348
763  The Necropolis, Glasgow, Scotland,            -------      351
769  The Queen's View-Pass of Killiecrankie, Scotland, -        351
773  Faskally House, Pass of Killiecrankie, Scotland,         351
812  Glasgow-in the West End Park, Scotland,       --           351
829 Luss-Loch Lomond, Scotland,. ----                        349
837  Ben Lomond, from Luss,...       348
842  Ben Lomond, from near Tarbot, Scotland,-       -           348
869  Ellen's Isle, Loch Katrine, Scotland,...-   -           349
872  Loch Katrine, from the Goblin's Cave, Scotland,.   349
1931  Dartmouth, from Hill above Warfleet, England,               347
19  St. John's College, Cambridge, new buildings, from  the
south-east, England,......... ——.                   346
PRUSSIA AND GERMANY.
46  View of Bacharach and Durhin, Prussia, —                   370
77  Abside of the Cathedral of Limburg on the Lahn, Germany,   370
80  View of the Bridge and the Chateau of Welburg, on the Lahn,
Germany,   - -.                                          371
325  Baden Baden. View onthe Oosbach, Germany,. —-. —... 372
ITALY AND PAPAL STATES.
754  Interior of the Amphitheatre at Pozzuoli, Italy,   -       8380
825  Excavations of Herculaneum in 1828. Mosaic Branch, Italy,   374
1094  Entrance to the Cathedral of Milan, Italy, —            378
1531  General view of Naples, Italy, —                           377
1546  Observatory of Vesuvius, near Naples, Italy,- -            374
1578  Garden of the Vatican, and Cupola of St. Peter's, Italy,._    384




CATALOGUE OF VITEWS.                       433
NO. VIEW.                                                    NO. PAGE.
VIEWS OF PALESTINE AND ADJACENT COUNTRIES.
1  Sinai. Wady Mukatteb.  The Written Va;lley.  A  good
specimen of the mysterious " Sinaitic " Writing,_... —-..  409
2  6, S'inai. Wady l'iran.  Paran.  Wild Palms and Arab
Figure, --          --                                    409
3  Sinai. The Plain of the Assembl, ge fri-om the Convent,.... 404
4  Sinai. Convent of Sinai.  The Abbott and Monks, ---         409
5  15, Travelers on Dromedaries, near Ezion Geber, —-          412
6  Hebron. A Group of Natives,...- - -409
7  The Fountain of Jericho. Ain Sultan healed by Elisha,_...    407
8  22, Jerusalem from Mount Zion, with Mlosque of Omar, etc.,
showing much of the modern City,. —---------- - ------   399
9  Jerusalem. The Garlden of Gethnsematneand MounltofOlives,  402
10  25, Jerusalem. The Village of' Siloam, and Valley of the
iCedron,........- -..................... 402
11  Jerusalem.  The Pool of Siloamn,._______.._____-_______   402
12      "       Facade of Church of the Hloly Sepulchre, -----  401
13      "       L itin Monks,..402
14  27, "       Via Dolorosa,...............401
16      "       The English Church, -            -,.-...., 401
17  32, "       The Mosque of Aksa, ------------  -             401
18  32, "       The Golden Gate,..                           400
19  33, "'he Mosque of Omar; the Site of Solomon's
Temple, - - - -   -- -401
20  33, Jerusalem.  View of the Court of the CMosque of Omar;
specinmen of Saracenic Architecture,......           401
22 Shiloh (Seilun,).-..  - - -. 407
23  43, Mount Carmel. The Convent.     --        -    -          393
24  Site of Bethsaida.  Sea of Galilee, --------- --....  396
25  Sea of Galilee. Bethsaida.  The Castor Oil Plant,-.          396
26  Site of Capernaum.  Tell Hum.  Ruins of Synagogue, Cornice,   Capitals,   etc.,..........................-.    404
29  Rukhleh. Huge Med;allion Face, supposed to be of Baal,.    403
30  Damascus, with Ancient Great Mosque,-...... - -   403
31  Damascus. A view from a House'lop,   -        -402
35    Baalbek.    The  Great Columns,..........................  402
36  Baalbek. View of the Great Colurnis and Temple of Jupiter,  402
37  Baalbek.  Ornamental Door and Niche on the south side of  402
the Great Court,.. —-..                   402
38  Baalbek.  General view of the Temple of Jupiter, -          402
39     ""                                "4         -------- -    402
40    "                             "    "    "  Fallen mass
of Ceiling of the Perystyle, --  -     -                  402
41  69, Baalbek. Temple of Jupiter.  The Great Portal with
Slipped Key Stone, measuring 42 by 21 feet,....      402
42  70, Baalbek. Temple of Jupiter.  Calpitals, etc.,-          402
43         "        "    "4    "     Columns, Capitals, etc.,-  402
44  71,   "......''''             402
45  72,   "       The Circular Temnple,                         402
46  75, Cedars of Letanon. Near View, Old and Young Trees,    392
47        T"'T'he largest of the Cedars,_ ---— _                392
48  Athens. The Propylse,. -------- --- --  --             410
49  84 "    The Caryalides,. -     — 411
29




434                   CATALOGUE OF VIEWS.
NO. VIEW.                                                    NO. PAGE.
50  Athens.  Sculptured Heads, etc., in the Acropolis..-..... 410
51      "    Sculptures of the Wingless Victory,..        410
53  91, "    Theatre of Bacchus,.. —---..   - - -             411
54             " "    "    "    State Chair,                    411
55      "       "    "    "        "    "      ~                411
56  Egypt. The Great Pyramid and Excavated Temple, -------  411
57     "    The Second Pyramid and Sphinx,.....   411
58   "  Step Pyramid of Sakhara,...- -         411
59     "    Pyramid of Dashoor,-.-........ —. —----------  411
60     "    Cairo. Tombs of the Mamelukes, showing the Citadel,.. —                                          -   _'............. 412
63  109, Egypt, Cairo. Mosque of Mohammed Ali,.     412
64  110,  "'                    "              "                412
65         "      "       "  of Sultan Kassan. The Fountain,   412
66  112, Egypt, Old Cairo. Mosque of Sultan Amer,. -------  412
67  Egypt, Old Cairo.  Ruined Mosque in the Desert,. -------  412
68    "    "    "  Street view from Mosque of Sultan Hassan,  412
69  Egypt, Cairo. Street view, from road to Citadel,            412
72  1, Sinai. The Valley of the Cave,. -    --------------      409
73      "    The Wilderness of Paran,.. 409
74   "  Wild Palms,    --—.                                     391
75  8,  "    Mount Horeb,............. —------------           409
76  1),"    The supposed Site of the Burning Bush,......   409
77  Hebron, with Mosque covering the Cave of Machpelah,         408
78  17, Bethlehem, from the Church of the Nativity,             408
79  Bethany, -... --                         -.           407
80  22, Jerusalem, froml the Mount of Olives,.. - - --         402
81  28,    "      from the Walls, looking east,-.              402
82         "      The Valley of HIinnom,                        402
83    "  Aceldama,  -— 402
84         "   The Mosque of Omar,                I ---         401
85  34,    "      The Fountain of Gihon,                        401
86  35,    "      The Joppa Gate,                               400
87  Shechem. Nablous, between Ebal and Gerizim,  -...           406
88  39, Samaria. Ruins of the Church of St. John, - -           406'
89  40, Nazareth, from the west,           --       -----       405
90  Mount Carmel,..                                            393
92  Cmesarea Philippi, Roman Ruins,.-...... —...       404
93  Cemsarea Philippi, principal source of the Jordan, --------  396
96  106, Egypt, Cairo, Tombs of the Caliphs, - -                412
97  Egypt, Cairo, Bedouin and Dromedary,           - -          412
98  Egypt, Cairo, Arab Tombs,                               -   411
99  77, Athens and Mars' I-lill,.         --       ------       410
100  Athens, and the Erectheum,                ---               410
102  81, Athens, the Parthenon,.-...........- - -- -  410
23  Jerusalem, Pool of Hezekiah, --------------- -----------   401
33      "     View from near Mount Zion, Mosque of Omar,.-   399
97  Egypt. The Great Pyramid and Sphinx, ----                   411
102  Egypt. Cario. From the Citadel, with Mosque of Sultan
Hassan,                       - -412
94  Athens.  The Morldern City from the Acropilis, ------------   410
105  Egypt.  Cairo. Tombs of the Mamelukes,                      412
61  Baalbek.  A general view of the Temples, and the range of
the Lebanon,    ---. 402




CATALOGUE OF VIEWS.                         435
NO. VIEW.                                                     NO. PAGE.
SCENERY AT ITHACA AND VICINITY, N. Y.
6923  Ithaca Fall, 160 feet high and 150 feet broad, from the north
bank, Fall creek,.-........... a   180
6924  Ithaca Fall, 160 feet high and 150 feet broad, Fall creek,    180
SCENERY AT PORTAGE AND VICINITY, N. Y.
6988  View from High Bank, Middle. Horse Shoe Falls and Bridge
in the distance,.. —------—........                  176
6990  High Bank, (380 feet,) Genesee river, below Middle Falls,     176
6991  View of High Bank, (380 feet,) Genesee river, below Middle
Falls, ------—. —--------—.................. d   176
6992  Middle Falls, Genesee river.  Bridge in the distance, ------   176
6994  The Genesee Falls, 96 feet high, Rochester, N. Y.,. —----    176
6995   "                                                 -"  "  - "  -    176
6996   "      "      "     "' "                               -"'  176
6999  The Lower Genesee Falls, below Rochester,   --- --            176
7000   "    "        "      "    "       "    --       -      -    176
VIEWS IN BALTIMORE AND VICINITY, MD.
7027 Catholic Cathedral,    -               -223
7032  Delaware Row, Franklin Square,-                               222
7042 Bay View Asylum,_ — --  223
7044  Baltimore from Federal Hill, looking north-east,.            222
7045      i"     "      "    "      "' 6    north,                  222
7046  Baltimore Harbor from Federal Hill, looking south-east,....   222
7048 Battle Monument, --                        -------   -. 222
7049  "   "   - -. - -    -— 222
7050  Washington Monument,          -------          ----..   222
7051  ti"                     -                                     222
7054  The Grand Promenade, Druid Hill Park, -     -- --             223
7055  Mansion House, south view, Druid Hill Park, -      -223
7056  Mansion House and Fountain, Druid Hill Park, —.         --    223
7058  Woodbury, from Prospect Hill, Druid Hill Park,.._.. ----   223
7059  The Music Stand, Druid Hill Park, ---- ---- --------      -   223
7063  Looking towards the Lake, Druid Hill Park,                    223




LIST OF I{EADING$S
PAGE.
3Miscellaneous,................. ------------  413
Views at Saratoga,                                                     413
Instantaneous Views, New York,_                                        414
The Majesty and Beauty of Niagara,                          -----   414
Glens of the Catskills,..                      415
Beauties of the I-udson.                                     -        415
Views in Washington City and District of Col timbia,.               41 6
Public Buildings in New York City and Brocklyn —,_... — ----  417
Brooklyn Navy Yard,         ---                                        417
West Point Views,.......................... —      -..... 418
Views on the Southern Tier on the route of the Eric Railioad...    418
White xMountain Views,  N.. -..         -----      418
Hills and Dales of New England, —--------------—. — -                 418
Valley of the Ramnapo, Erie Railroad,.. 0                            418
Greenwood Cemetery views, -................ —-                     -  419
Passaic Falls, Pattcrson, New Jersey,..           --------    419
Central Park Views,.                                                  419
California Views,..                                         420
Views in Cuba,. -        -         -..................... --   --  420
Views in El Ecuador,.. -    -.. 421
Views  in  Venez uela,... —-- ---- --------------- ---    ----- --    422
Glimpses of the Great West.  Minnesota,..        422
Views on the line of the Pennsylvania Central Railroad,. -.-..... 422
Delaware Water Gap,.        -. ----        422
Scenes in China —,..422
Views in New Haven, Connecticut,. — -.....                            422
Trenton Falls, New Jersey, -..... —-----—. —...                       423
Views about Lake George --------------—,      -------------           423
The Valley of the Housatonic,...   423'Views about Bergen Hill,                                  - -         423
Views in Japan,.-....                                                 423
Views in Wat-yne County, Pennyslvania, -          -------    -----    423
Scenery at Little Falls, on the VMohawk, __..                       423
Views in lMontreal and Quebec,.-              -                     424
Mammoth Cave Views, Kentucky,..          -..       -.......................  424
Scotch and Continental Views,          _.... —.          424
Swiss and Austrian Views,.-.... ---- --                      427
Paris and Paris Exposition,. —                                        427
Views in CaliforniL —..                                               428
Views about Lake Superior,. —.   428
Crossing the Plains to Montana,    -              --                   429
Views in the City of Chicago,.                       429
Views on the line of the Pacific Railroad and Rocky Mountains,_      __ 429
Views in Wisconsin,.-. - - -.           - - -            480
Views in Illinois,.                                                    430
Views in the Southern States-,......_ —----  430
Alpine Club, --------- ----                                            431
English and Scotch, —--                                                431
Prussia and Germany, —..,________  432
Italy and the Papal States,                                            432
Views of Palestine and Adjacent Countries, _       ----                433
Scenery at Ithaca -ntd vicinity, N. ~Y.,... 435
Scenery at Portage and vicinity, N. Y.,        - - - -                 435
Views in Baltimore and vicinity, Md., -..-..     435