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FRO  I2SPEC




EL D WT YO  EY LE
SEEN WFITH YOUNG EYES.
Tu.W I T TA Ii ME n,
No. 2 BIBLE HOUSE.
18'71.




Euewred according to Act of Congress, in the year 1871,
BY THOM AS WHITTAKER,
In tLhe office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington.
S'. T'ORLAND STEREOTYPE FOUNDRY, 
biWUTOLK CO., N. X.




TO
I   J. ID.
THIS RECORD OF SMUTUALM EXPJERIENCE
IN FOREIGN LANDS
IS AFFECTIONATELY INSCRIBED
BY
HER MOTHER.








PREFACE.
HE following pages were originally written that
friends at home might share in the pleasure
enjoyed by a party visiting Europe. They were
designed, also, to keep the incidents and impressions of that visit alive in the memory of one
member of the party, whose young eyes for the
first time looked upon the strange scenes, and
the wonders of nature and art, which everywhere
abound in the old world.
They are simply a jotting down of ordinary
events and sight-seeings, and if the "couleur de
rose" seems to pervade everything, it is because
nothing occurred to mar our pleasure, and it was
difficult to prevent that hue from becoming the
predominant one.




6                 PREFACE.
To those who have been abroad, it is always
pleasant to learn the experience of others, and
thus recall their own enjoyment; while for those
who are anticipating a tour in foreign lands, it is
hoped this book may contain some useful suggestions.
C. C. J. D.




THE OLD WORLD
SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.
STEAMER RUtssA, Bay of New York, |
April 22, 18-,
W  E are almost "son the wing."  So I commence at once to fulfil my promise of
keeping a faithful record. The day is bright and
warm, and the sea so smooth and calm that it
seems to beckon us onward. Our steamer, too,
is all we can desire; and among the ninety-five
passengers there are many who will not fail to
add to the enjoyment of the voyage. As I sit
writing in the saloon, the genial face of Mr.
Charles Dickens peeps in, and I am rejoiced to
see amongst us that large-hearted man, whose
writings have given so much pleasure, and been
the solace of many a weary heart.
The saloon is fragrant with the flowers which




8               THE OLD WORLD
have been sent as loving farewells to -many on
board, and thus a delicious odor of the shore
mingles with the fresh air of the sea.  One of
Mr. Dickens' baskets is very magnificent, being
about three feet long, and filled with the most
gorgeous flowers, exquisitely arranged.  In the
centre  is the word "Farewell," composed of
small white flowers, upon a scarlet ground, while
beneath are the initials, "C. D."  But the cluster
of pure Easter lilies sent to us by our kind friend,
Mrs. A., are lovelier and fairer than all, for with
these
c" The altar's lawn,
At morning's dawn,
We deck at Easter-tideTo tell of Him
Who liveth, though He died!"
Thursday, April 23.
A pleasant morning and a fair wind.  Had a
good opportunity to arrange our state-rooms,
which are funny little places enough, with their
small round port-holes for windows, their narrow
shelves for beds, and a rack fastened firmly above
the washing slab, containing bottles and tumblers;
this firm  fastening  suggesting the uncomfortable idea of rolling seas, and dismal weather.




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.           9
The ship is most admirably arranged and
appointed, in every respect-the service p7rompt
and efficient-the table bountifully su1pliied, and
everything seems done to secure the safety and
comfort of the passenigers. At twelve o'clock
we had made two hundred and sixty-four miles,
having left at half-past three yesterday. The
day has been charming in every respect, and
most of the passengers were on deck.  In the
evening we assembled in the saloon, where there
was some reading, some talking, some playing of
whist, and much drinking of brandy.
Friday, April 24.
"Alack, for me
When I was at sea!"
Said Southey. A remark which I fully appreciated this morning, when the sky was overcast,
and the sea so rough that nearly all the passengers kept their state-rooms, and I could hardly
lift my head. But the afternoon again found me
on deck, enjoying the fresh breeze, and walking
up and down the whole length of the ship, which
was now plunging from side to side, in a somewhat frantic manner. How glorious it all was,
and how I wondered that any one could help
enjoying it!




10            THE OLD WORLD
I never tired of watching the great green
waves, with their snowy tops, rolling so far away,
and seeming to break against the sky. I find
our state-room, which looked so small at first,
has grown pretty large, now that everything is
nicely stowed away. It really seems to have
"expanded into something quite bulky, and
almost boasts a bay-window to view the sea
from," as our friend Mr. Boz wrote some years
ago. So easy is it to adapt oneself to circumstances.
Sunday, April 26.
This bright, pleasant morning found us crossing
the Banks, and the sea was so calm that nearly
all the passengers were able to assemble in the
cabin for Divine service. Prayers were read by
the surgeon of the ship, and all present joined in
the service, attentively, if not devoutly. It did
not seem a mere form, but a proper recognition
of our dependence upon God. Many of the
sailors were present, looking very nice in their
blue uniforms, and listening with attentive
interest. No singing was attempted, it being a
hazardous experiment at such a time.
In the afternoon the wind commenced rising,
and increased till midnight, by which time it




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.         11
blew a perfect gale. The sea became very rough,
and the ship rolled and pitched at a fearful rate.
I can enjoy almost anything, I think, but found
nothing specially pleasant during this uproarious
night. Fortunately, the wind was favorable, and
we made good progress.
April 27.
Had a pleasant conversation to-day with Mr.
Dickens, who has been suffering much from his
lame foot. He says, playfully, that he has "read
himself off his legs," but speaks warmly of his
" delightful" visit to our own beloved land, and
of the great changes and improvements since his
former visit. When I congratulated him that he
had not encountered one of our terrible railroad'accidents, he replied, "I don't pretend to deny
that I had somefears, for ever since the accident
in England where I had so narrow an escape,
I have been extremely nervous." It is that
terribly destructive accident on the South-eastern
railway to which he alludes in "Our Mutual
Friend," closing with this paragraph:
"I remember with devout thankfulness that I
can never be nearer parting company with my
readers forever than I was then, until there shall
be written against my life the two words with




12            THE OLD WORLD
which I have this day closed this book-THE
END."
Mr. Dickens told us that Gadshill, twenty
miles from London, where he now resides, was
associated with his boyhood,.and for that reason
he was strongly attached to the spot. That he
has won the hearts of the people about him, is
evident from  the account " Hans Christian
Anderson " gives of his charming visit there, and
the affectionate regard with which his neighbors
of the poorer class spoke of him.
I was much struck with Mr. Dickens' devout
manner during the religious services yesterday,
and the earnestness of his responses in the
beautiful liturgy of the Church of England.
Surely, one who has made so many hearts
better and brighter, must indeed feel the veneration for the life and lessons of our Saviour,
which he does not hesitate to avow.
Friday, May 1.
A beautiful morning, and all on deck watching
for the light-houses and cliffs on the Irish coast.
Every one seemed very happy in the thought
that the voyage was so nearly over, and that
beautiful England was close at hand.
My own feelings were, as Artemus Ward used




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.          13
to say, "very much mnixed."  The whole voyage
had been so thoroughly enjoyable that I had
several times exclaimed, "liow can any one say
that it is disagreeable to be at sea? I think it
perfectly splendid, as school-girls say." iMy few
hours of suffering were as nothing compared to
my constant pleasure in watching the movements
of the ship, the agility of the sailors, and the
ocean itself, so wonderful and grand.  Then,
too, our pleasant fellow-travellers; with whoom I
had read, and talked, and walked, and with whom
I would gladly have been compelled to remain
much longer.
Eight days and a few hours, seemed quite too
short a passage from New York to Liverpool,
and
"I
Regained my freedom with a sigh;"
being an exception, I fancy, to most voyagers.
Eight o'clock, and a bright moonlit evening,
found us at anchor in the Mersey, two miles
below our destination; and what a scene of
confusion presented itself!  Waiters bringing up
bags and baskets-ladies arranging cloaks and
shawls-gentlemen pointing out their trunks to
the Custom-house officers, who had come on




14             THE OLD WORLD
board-said officers asking questions, and looking
wise, but passing the baggage very rapidly. As
fast as an article was passed, and received the
label, it was marked for the hotel to which the
owner was going. This Babel continued for two
mortal hours, but at last we were all on board
the passenger tender, and as we steamed away,
three rousing cheers were given for the grand
old ship, three for the captain, and three for the
officers.
When we drove up to the hotel, and the landlady came out with the bright ribbons on her
cap, and a face beaming with smiles, a capital
specimen of an English landlady, my heart perfectly bounded with delight. When I gave her
my Easter lilies, still fresh and beautiful, telling
her I had brought her some flowers from
America, her face was brighter still. Then the
blazing coal fire-the throwing aside of ship
clothing-the delightful feeling that the floor
beneath you was secure, and would not suddenly
become either the ceiling or the side of the
room-how pleasant it all was; and I am afraid
I almost forgot to be sorry that I had left the
beloved ship!




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.          15
Liverpool, May 4.
The morning after our arrival here found us
so fresh and well, that we felt equal to almost
anything; so after our letters to the bankers
were delivered, we went to the Museum, a fine
large structure, with a collection of natural
history, statuary, paintings, and an excellent
library.  The Museum  is entirely free — the
princely gift of Sir William Brown. We visited
the reading-room about twelve o'clock, and found
a hundred or more persons seated and reading.
What a glorious thing it is to have money, and a
disposition with it, to bestow it so nobly!
In the afternoon we had a lovely drive of
eighteen miles about the suburbs of Liverpool.
The trees are in full leaf, fruit trees in blossom,
hedges very luxuriant, and the country looked
like a garden. We passed some exquisite residences and grounds; among them, Childwell
Abbey, an old country place of the Marquis of
Salisbury-a quaint pile of buildings, with some
grand old trees on the lawn, in front. The
whole drive was enchanting, and we shall not
soon forget this first glimpse of "'Merrie England."
On our return, there was a muster of the




16            THE OLD WORLD
Liverpool volunteers-many thousands of them
-and as they marched past our hotel, we had a
very good opportunity of admiring their scarlet
uniforms, which looked very brilliant in the
light of the setting sun. After they had passed,
a performance of Punch and Judy took place
under our window, which amused us very much.
It is really astonishing how much they can make
those puppets do, and how like human beings in
miniature they look and act, as they go through
their various parts-sometimes fighting, and
sometimes having the jolliest tilme imaginable.
A little dog was one of the performers for us,
and he looked very oddly, with a broad muslin
ruff around his neck, and acted his part with a
comic gravity which was perfectly irresistible.
On Sunday we went to St. Bride's Church,
with some kind friends. I felt that we were
in a foreign land, when I saw the sexton sailing
up and down the aisles in a long black gown,
something like a clergyman's, only made of
some worsted material. There are also some
peculiarities in the service.  Both creeds are
repeated, although at different times.  The
clergyman gives out the number of the hymn,
and the organist immediately commences playing




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.          17
the tune which is to be sung, very simply,
during the time the congregation are finding
their places. Then the clergyman again gives
the number, reads the first two lines, and the
singing begins at once. There is also a short
prayer-not a silent one, after' the clergyman
goes into the pulpit, and just before he gives out
his test.
Sunday  afternoon we visited the Blue-Coat
Hospital, which interested us very much. We
were shown all over it, and admired the exquisite
neatness evident everywhere we went. I do not
think, however, that the arrangements were very
much superior to many of our own charitable
institutions, except the bathing facilities, which
were admirable. They have a large tank in
which the children can be taught to swim, and
the water can be let on to the depth of four or
five feet, and drawn off at pleasure. The institution accommodates and supports two hundred and fifty boys and one hundred girls, all of
whom  are dressed in the costume of the establishment, and look oddly enough.
The boys leave at fourteen years of age, and
the girls at sixteen. The former wear an entire
suit of very dark blue cloth, with a long tailed
2




18            THE OLD WORLD
coat rounded in front like a quaker's. On their
necks they wear a white cravat, without any
collar, and clergymen's bands. It makes them
look like a collection of Lilliputian clergymen;
and the garb itself has a tendency to give a
serious expression to their faces, which one does
not often see in young boys. The girls wear
dark blue gowns which reach their ankles, and
round white capes made of thick muslin. They
all marched into the chapel, to the solemn music
of the organ, and took their places very systematically. The exercises were conducted by
the children themselves, and consisted of singing,
prayers, catechism, and recitation of portions of
Scripture. The prayers were read-the hymns
given out, and the questions of the catechism
asked by boys selected for the purpose; and it
was really astonishing to hear their long answers
without a single mistake. A great manynoble
men and women have beenl educated at this
institution, who, but for its sheltering care,
would have had no one to teach them the right
way.
In the evening we went to St. Mary's Church
for the Blind, where they had a full choral
service; the blind being the singers. They sang




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.         19
beautifully, and it was very touching to hear
their sweet voices, so full of thanksgiving, and
remember that those sightless eyes had never
seen the exquisite works of their Heavenly
Eather's hand.
We feel that we have made much of Liverpool,
which is not generally considered very interesting.
London.
Our journey here by way of the North-western
railway was thoroughly pleasant, and the country
beautiful in the extreme. The fruit trees were
one mass of blossoms, and white cowslips, violets
and other flowers covered the meadows. Every
foot of ground seemed cultivated, while the
hawthorn hedges which everywhere line the
road, and separate the fields, and the multiplicity
of trees, add greatly to the beauty of the scenery.
We passed through many districts abounding
in maenufacturing  establishments, with  their
tall chimneys emitting volumes of smoke. While
at Rugby, we thought of the noble Doctor
Arnold, who has made that place so famous, and
of Tom Brown, who has so gracefully recorded
his school-days there. We are now in pleasant
quarters in the west end of London, and are
living as comfortably and quietly as if we were




20            THE OLD WORLD
in our own house, Our waiter looks so ministerial- in his white cravat, and serves us with an
air of such thorough " respectability," that if it
were necessary to address a note to him, I should
be quite tempted to commence it in -the prescribed clerical way, "Reverend Sir."
The annual "May meetings" in Exeter HEall
are an institution of London, and we were much
interested, the day after our arrival, in attending
the anniversary of the British and Foreign Bible
Society, to which two American clergymen were
delegates. Lord Shaftsbury was in the chair.
The Bishops of London and Carlisle spoke very
earnestly, and we were glad to hear our dear
friend, Dr. F. loudly applauded when he said
emphatically, "There is power enough in Protestant truth any time, and anywhere, to conquer
Romanism. I am  sure I cannot mistake the
sentiment of every true Britain, as I know I do
not mistake the sentiment of every true American,
when I say, an open field, a fair fight, and God
help the right!" Lord  Shaftsbury's earnest
words about America, and the strong desire that
there should never be anything but peace between
his land and ours, seemed to express the wish
of the entire audience.




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.         21
We have had a pleasant evening with Mrs.
Ranyard, who has been so useful among the
poor in London, and whose books "s The i issing
Link," and "The Book and its Story," have
given so much information and pleasure. From
a little work which she gave us, called " London,
and Ten Years Work in it," we learn how wonderful has been the success of the Bible women
in teaching the poor and degraded the best and
most useful kind of knowledge, the way to help
themselves.
As we passed through a part of the famous
St. Giles, on our way to Mrs. P.'s, we saw, even
yet, an amount of squalid poverty which was
sickening. The contrast between it and the
splendor and display at the Queen's drawingroom the next day, was very striking.
There were superb equipages, gay liveries,
footmen and coachmen, generally four on a
carriage, with bo.uquets large enough for breastplates; beautiful women sparkling with diamonds,
and everything else that wealth and rank can
give. The Prince of Wales was attended by a
troop of horsemen, the band playing "' God save
the King," and his coachmen and footmen fairly
gleamted with gold lace. He bowed very plea



22            THE OLD WORLD
santly to the crowd, and looks like an amiable
young man, whatever he may be in reality. In
the midst of all this elegance, we were much
surprised at the freedom of a well-dressed man,
who walked past the carriages of my Lord This,
and my Lady That, exclaiming at the top of his
voice, "All this comes out of our pockets. 0,
yes, we pay for all this." Although he uttered
this many times, no notice was taken of it by the
host of policemen who were standing about, to
keep order, and he was allowed to pass unmolested.
The people are quite'delighted that the Queen
is again appearing in public, and crowds were
assembled to see her on her way to lay the
foundation stone of a new hospital, the day
following the drawing-room reception. She was
in an open barouche, with the Princess Christian
by her side, and the pretty little Princess 3Beatrice,
with her long golden hair floating in crimps
over her shoulders, seated in front of her.
Prince Leopold made a very handsome Scotch
laddie in his Tartan dress. The Queen, in her
simple black bonnet, bowed constantly to the
right and left, but the expression of her face
was decidedly sad, and there was no smile.




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.          23
After the royal procession had passed, we went
to Mortlake, a few miles from London, where we
had been invited to lunch with  a charming
family, whose names are associated with the best
and noblest of the land. Near their pleasant
place are the grounds formerly belonging to
Sir William  Temple, where Dean Swift passed
so much of his early life. After luncheon an
excursion was made to Hampton Court, by way
of Bushy Park. We walked a mile through an
avenue of horse-chestnut trees, which were one
mass of white blossoms, and the effect was very
beautiful.
The grounds at Hampton Court are kept in
such exquisite order, and the Palace itself so
curious and quaint in its architecture, that it
could not fail to interest us extremely.  The
building occupies eight acres of ground, and in
order to see it, and its beautiful lawns and
gardens, one must walk several miles.  The
situation is very lovely, being upon the banks of
the Thames, and so elevated that the view of
the Surrey Hills, and the surrounding country,
is very fine. The river itself,
"At every winding, as the waters run,
Presents a mirror to the shining sun."




24            THE OLD WORLD
It is not surprising that Henry the Eighth
should have  asked  the  ambitious Cardinal
Wolsey, who designed the magnificent structure
for himself, what were his "intentions in building a palace that far surpassed any of the royal
palaces of England?" There was more tact than
truth in his reply, that he was only trying to
form a residence worthy of so great a monarch.
Whether this great monarch (great in talent,
and great in wickedness) desired the gift, or not,
it became his, and was afterwards associated
with royalty, for many years, and in many ways.
The good "boy-king," Edward the Sixth, was
born at Hampton Court, and in sixteen hundred
and twenty-five, Charles the First and Queen
Henrietta retreated there to avoid the plague
then raging in London. Less than twenty years
after, their majesties again fled there for refuge
from a calamity still more fatal-a calamity
which ended in bringing King Charles to the
scaffold.
The splendid Gothic Hall designed by Wolsey,
and finished by Henry the Eighth, is very magnificent. It is more than a hundred feet long,
and sixty high, the roof being most elaborately
carved and decorated with the arms and badges




BEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.          25
of Henry the Eighth. It was used as a theatre
during the reign of Elizabeth, and tradition says
that some of the plays of Shakspeare were first
acted here. We went through long suites of
rooms, once the scenes of magnificent banquets
and grand Christmas festivals, where we saw
hundreds of historical pictures, and portraits of
various kings, queens, and persons of highest
rank. The sweet face of Mrs. Delaney, the pet
of good Queen Charlotte, and the beloved of all
who knew her, interested us very much. There
is no end to the portraits of George the Third
and his numerous offspring, and one wonders
that they had patience to sit so frequently for
their effigies.  It must have furnished our
countryman, Benjamin West, the favorite painter
of his majesty, an abundance of employment.
Hampton Court has not for a long time been
occupied as a royal residence, and there are
several suites of apartments in which private
families are allowed to reside, by special permission. Through the kindness of the present
Queen, it was first thrown open to the public,
and the humblest as well as the proudest of her
subjects, can now enjoy its various treasures.




26            THE OLD WORLD
We have been several times to Westminster
Abbey, and it is impossible to describe the almost
overpowering emotions with which one sees this
pile, so vast and grand, and so full of historical
associations. It becomes more and more wonderful on each succeeding visit. We entered at
the "Poets' Corner," where are simple monuments
to "rare Ben Johnson," Spenser, MJilton, Gray,
Dryden, Chaucer, Goldsmith, Addison, Sheridan
&c. As I found myself by a simple slab in the
pavement, with the words, "David Garrick,"
carved upon it, I involuntarilylooked up to a little
gallery where, some years ago, a group of weeping friends stood (Hannah 3ore among them,) to
watch the last sad rites to the most wonderful
actor of that or any other age. The whole
scene seemed so vivid as I stood there, but all
who witnessed it have long since passed away.
It was with feelings of both awe and reverence
that we went from one monument to another,
and read names, and saw deeds recorded with
many of which we had been long familiar.
The guide who conducts parties through the
chapels (of which there are nine) becomes very
tiresome with his sing-song manner, and parrotlike way of giving information. One longs to




SBEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.        27
get rid of him, and linger for hours, instead of
being hurried on in such a summary manner.
In Hernry the Seventh's chapel, which has an
exquisite carved stone ceiling, and  is very
beautiful architecturally, the monument of Mary
Queen of Scots is seen; a recumbent statue with
a face very lovely, although of stone. Her cousin
Elizabeth, in the royal robes and immense ruff in
which she delighted, is in another aisle of the
same chapel.  The tomb of Henry the Seventh
himself, said by Lord Bacon to be "one of the
stateliest and daintiest in Europe," is in the centre
of the chapel. There are effigies in solid brass
of Henry and Elizabeth his queen, lying side by
side, on a block of black marble.! The tomb is
placed on a pedestal of black marblT, five feet
high, and beautifully adorned with brass -ornaments. The remains of Edward the Sixth are
deposited at the head of this tomb.
In St. Edward's chapel, the uncomfortable
looking coronation chair is kept, which has been
used from the days of Edward Second to Queen
Victoria. Underneath it is the rough sandstone
on which all the old kings of Scotland were
crowned. The chair is covered with crimson
velvet on coronation days, and it is hoped,




28            THE OLD WORLD
slightly cushioned, or the old adage would
become true, "Uneasy rests the head that wears
a crown."
As we wandered about among the many grand
and costly monuments, and came at last to the
simple flagstones with the letters W. P., and
C. J. F. carved upon them, we thought of the
enthusiasm of the eccentric John Randolph, who
exclaimed on seeing them, "Here lie, side by
side, the remains of the two great rivals, William
Pitt, and Charles James Fox, whose memory so
completely lives in history.  No marble monuments are necessary to mark the spot where their,
bodies repose. There is more simple grandeur
in those few letters than in all the surrounding
monuments, sir!"
We were very fortunate in having tickets to
an evening service in Westminster Abbey, which
was brilliantly lighted for the occasion-an
unusual circumstance. The Archbishop of York
preached in behalf of the Church Missionary
Society, and the service was choral, closing with
the Hallelujah Chorus of Handel, which was
performed magnificently, and sounded grander
than ever in that grand old pile, which is also the
last resting-place of the glorious musician himself.




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.          29
We went one day to Westminster Hall, once
a banqueting hall, and the scene of mirth and
revelry for centuries. It is a Gothic apartment,
and the largest room in the world unsupported
by pillars. The roof is of wood with flying
arches, and curious carving. Charles the First
was tried and condemned in this hall. Warren
Hastings was also tried, and fortunately acquitted here, and at a still later day, it was the
scene of George the Fourth's coronation banquet.
We were shown through the House of Commons
and House of Lords by a very well-dressed,
gentlemanly looking man, to whom we hesitated
about offering a shilling, but he took it with
wonderful ease, and did not seem in the least
embarrassed. In fact, it is quite surprising to
meet with so many people who are ready to
receive a fee, from  a penny upward. One need
not shrink from offering it under any circumstances.
In the HE-ouse of Lords, the Lord Chancellor
was holding court, surrounded by lawyers in
their large curly wigs, which nearly extinguished
them. Everything was done in the most quiet,
orderly manner possible. Sir Roundell Palmer,
the former attorney-general, made an argument,




30            THE OLD WORLD
which was listened to very eagerly by the blackgowned, big wigs, present, as well as by those of
us who were only allowed a peep at the dignitaries from a quiet corner.
The new  Houses of Parliament are very
magnificent and beautiful, the style being richly
decorated Gothic. They are divided into numerous apartments, courts, passages and halls.
Some of the latter are immense, and adorned
with statuary, and busts of eminent statesmen.
The House of Lords is perfectly gorgeous in gilt
mouldings, stained glass windows, paintings,
velvet, and everything else essential to comfort
and grandeur. The letters V. R. occur so frequently that a gifted countrywoman of ours once
suggested that it must mean "very ridiculous."
The House of Commons is more simple, but
very elegant, notwithstanding, and one could not
but feel that so much show and display were
quite unnecessary to grave legislation.
No one can come to London without paying a
visit to Madame Toussaud's wax-works, and we
were extremely amused with this "calm  and
classical" collection, so full of the "unchanging
air of coldness and gentility," which Mrs. Jarley
so much admired. It becomes very confusing at




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.         31
last, particularly when one turns about to make
an humble apology for stumbling against a lady
in the crowd, and discovers that the lady is
"looking intensely nowhere, and staring with
extraordinary  earnestness at nothing," and is
really only a "figger."
A gentleman of our party who is full of humor,
but generally looks very grave and wise, seated
himself in the centre of a long lounge, to rest,
while we went to see Napoleon's travelling
carriage, his son's crib, and some other relics;
to say nothing of the dreadful guillotine.
VWhile sitting there, a young girl came up to
our dignified friend, and surveyed him from top
to toe, evidently admiring the grave old gentleman very much, and wondering why he was not
labelled like the rest; when he suddenly gave
her a look brimming over with fun, and she
scampered off half frightened out of her wits.
We were very much amused with an amiablelooking old gentleman, with spectacles on his
nose, who was watching a group of royal personages, and occupied the best seat in front of
them, in order to do so. IHe turned his head
from  side to side, occasionally, as if he were
quite bent upon seeing everything, and we were




32             THE OLD WORLD
beginning to think it was time he had resigned
his place to some one else, when a closer inspection showed us that his powers of locomotion were of a very limited kind.  The feeling
after one first discovers that the individual near
you, instead of being flesh and blood, is only a
sham, is very peculiar.
St. Paul's Cathedral, situated as it is, in the
very heart of London, and in its most crowded
neighborhood, is blackened with coal smoke, and
looks like anything but white marble, of which it
is built. It is a massive pile, and when one is
underneath the dome, its real grandeur impresses
itself very forcibly. The choir, with its rich oak
carvings of festoons of flowers, scrolls, fruits and
figures, is very beautiful. Christopher Wren,
the famous architect, laid the corner stone
himself in sixteen hundred and seventy-five, and
lived to see his son deposit the highest stone
upon the cupola, thirty-five years after.  His
remains are beneath a plain slab in the crypt,
but a Latin inscription in the choir above, says,
"Beneath, lies Sir Christopher Wren, the builder
of this church, who lived upwards of ninety years,
not for himself, but for the public good. Reader,
seekest thou his monument? Look around!"




-C — -- E
am~~~~~~~~~~~~~-~                                                     rST.~~~, PAL'SCAHDRL








SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.         33
It is an interesting fact that the first statue
erected in St Paul's, was that of the great lexicographer, IDr. Johnson. There are a great
many monuments to the memory of distinguished
men-among them, John Howard the philanthropist, who is represented trampling on fetters
and chains, with a key in one hand, and a scroll
in the other, inscribed, "Plea for the Improvement of Prisons." One cannot but look with
reverence on even the sculptured form of a man
so truly benevolent and good. England's two
greatest heroes are lying in the crypt of the
cathedral. Lord Nelson is placed immediately
under the centre of the dome, in a black marble
sarcophagus, having on it a coronet and cushion.
It has a granite foundation, and only the simple
inscription, "Horatio, Viscount Nelson."  In a
chamber near by, is the superb tomb of the
Duke of Wellington, made from  one block of
porphyry, highly  polished, which  weighed
originally more than seventy tons.  It has a
foundation of red granite, about four feet high,
and at each corner is sculptured the head of a
sleeping lion, also in granite. At the four corners
of the vault are gas jets, rising through red
granite shafts. The immense funeral car, drawn,
3




- 34          THE OLD WORLD
at that time, by twelve horses, and wrought
from cannon captured in different battles under
the "Iron Duke," is in another chamber. It is
covered with black velvet, fringed with silver,
and six wooden horses, looking as much like
life as a painted horse can, and wearing the
sombre trappings used at the funeral, are attached to the car.
Certainly, England has not been wanting in
any honor that could be conferred upon the
conqueror of Napoleon, both in life and death.
Our visit to Sydenham Palace, which occurred
on a lovely day, was made very interesting
through the kindness of the family of the distinguished naturalist, Mr. Waterhouse Hawkins,
who has placed so many of the remarkable
restored animals about the beautiful grounds.
There are thirty, or more, of these creatures,
once inhabitants of England and Ireland, but
now extinct. Some of them are enormous, and
one can but rejoice that they belong to the
6things that were."
The Palace is a marvellous structure, and
contains a little of everything. One can walk for
hours through its floors and galleries, examining




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.         35
the wonderful collections of treasures brought
from all parts of the world. There are copies
of many of the most celebrated works of artcourts arranged to represent different nations,
and adorned with statuary-such as the Egyptian
court-the Grecian-the Grecian-the Roman-the Pompeian,
&c. Then there are models of ships, bridges,
and machinery, and specimens of the animal and
mineral productions of all countries.
In the tropical gardens, there are exquisite
flowers and shrubs, and even trees, growing.
Indeed, flowers and fountains meet you everywhere, and the whole light airy structure seems
like fairy-land. The situation is commanding,
and the grounds beautifully arranged with a
profusion of statues, grottoes and fountains.
We were present at a grand concert given by
the Handel Society, underneath the great central
dome of the building, and the music sounded
magnificently there.
The next evening we heard music of quite
another character at the Baptist Tabernacle
church in  Southwark, which, although  less
artistic, was none the less impressive. There
the whole congregation seemed to sing as one




36             "JHE OLD WORLD
voice, the pastor setting them the example by
singing with all his might and main himself.
It was really grand. Mr. Spurgeon's church is
in the midst of a densely populated portion of
the city. The interior of the building is oval in
shape, and thlere are double galleries running
around the whole church. It is well lighted and
ventilated.
The congregation was immense, filling every
part of the enormous structure. As each person
entered, a small envelope was given him, or her,
with a request printed upon it that contributions
be placed in it, and deposited in boxes at the
doors, for the benefit of the college which is
preparing young men for the ministry. In this
way, two hundred dollars, sometimes more, are
collected every Sunday, mostly in pennies. The
church seats about five thousand, and besides
those who were seated, hundreds stood during
the entire service.
Through the politeness of one of the officials,
we were very kindly placed in excellent seats in
the first gallery, very near to, and almost on a
level with the pulpit. Precisely at half-past six,
Mr. Spurgeon entered, and took his seat on a
small platform, projecting  from  the  second




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.          37
gallery. He is short, rather stout, and young in
his appearance. There is nothing to indicate the
wonderful power he has as a preacher.
The services commenced with a short prayer;,
which was somewhat characteristic. He asked
that our thoughts might not be " gadding about"
during the service, and implored blessings on
"Mary and Sarah, and Willie and Thomas, and
the little baby whose voice we had just heard."
After the prayer, a hymn was given out, verse
by verse-then followed the reading and expounding of a portion of Scripture-then a
long prayer, and singing again. The sermon
was upon the verses of Balaam's prophecy, in
which the Saviour is set forth under the figure
of a star. He made seven heads. First, the
star represented dominion.  Second, shining.
Third, guidance.  Fourth, constancy.  Fifth,
influence.  Sixth, wonder. Seventh, glory. It
was a plain, earnest, practical presentation of the
offices of Christ, which a child could have understood. The vast audience listened with breathless attention, throughout, and we all felt
interested and edified. It could not have been
called a scholarly or finished sermon, but Christ
was faithfully and fully preached.




38            THE OLD WORLD
With a good delivery, fresh and practical
thoughts, and with homely, yet pertinent illustrations, he is enabled to keep the attention
of his hearers to the end. His exhortations and
applications are interspersed throughout the
whole discourse, and not left to the close. The concluding service was a hymn, and a short prayer,
with benediction. The whole service was something to be seen and remembered, as among the
most remarkable things of this wonderful metropolis, and we cannot soon forget it.
We spent a pleasant day at Hampstead, where
our lovely friend Mrs. N. resides, in B  Lodge,
a charming spot, with a pretty garden and lawn.
I made my debut upon a donkey, while there,
as there were scores of these creatures upon the
heath,
" All saddled and bridled and ready for fight,"
which their various owners urged upon us in
the most hospitable manner. Having long been
desirous of trying one of these shaggy, long,
eared beasts, I selected a particularly amiablelooking animal, and mounted-but alas I
"Iknowed a donkey, wot wouldn't go,"
at least, not in the right direction, for although




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.         39
the owner punched him with a stick, and screamed
in his great ears loud enough to deafen him, he
persisted in trying both sides of the road at
once, and made such desperate aim for the
ditches, that like many another debutante, I was
seized with "stage fright," and retreated in the
most ignominious manner. The views from the
highest point of Hampstead Heath quite repaid
us for our long walk, and I did not regret parting with my gay deceiver. As we were returning
through the lanes, and quaint old streets, we
passed a plain brick house, covered with ivy,
standing on the brow of a hill, overlooking the
town. There was a look of elegance and refinement about it which we felt ought to belong to
the residence of the author of the "Schonberg
Cotta Family," whose home it is.
Our next expedition was to the Zoological
Gardens of lRegents Park, which are wonderfully
perfect in their arrangements. The animals are
not cramped up in miserable little cages, where
they keep walking up and down, looking very
fierce and forlorn. On the contrary, many of
them have a beautiful little cottage to live in,
surrounded- by a high, open fence; and then




40            THE OLD WORLD
they have pools of clear, pure water, in which
they bathe, and they really seem so comfortable and happy, that it is a pleasure to look at
them.
The gardens are so'beautifully laid out, that
we were not surprised to see many happy families
there, consisting of fathers and mothers, children
and nurses, who. evidently had come for the
entire day, with capacious lunch-baskets. It is
pleasant to see so many of the lovely parks and
gardens here, free to all, and very delightful to
see how numerous are those green spots in this
great city.
It is "the season " in London just now;
Parliament being in session, and all the fashionable world congregating here, so that everything
is in its best and most attractive dress. We
never tire of the beautiful parks, which in the
afternoon are thronged with elegant equipages,
ladies on horseback galloping up and down
Rotton Row, and pedestrians enjoying the gay
scene. The pretty children on ponies scarcely
larger than a Newfoundland dog, led by a groom,
and with a nurse walking at their side, we always
watched with peculiar pleasure. One day, how



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.         41
ever, our delight in these scenes received a shock
from which it was difficult to recover, when we
saw the horse of a young gentleman become
perfectly unmanageable and rush madly along
the bridle path, while its rider made the most
desperate efforts to keep the saddle. When we
saw him at last dashed to the ground, and his
poor lifeless body extended on the grass shortly
afterwards, we felt that a ride in Rotton Row
was dearly paid for in this case.
Kensington Gardens, at the western extremity
of Hyde Park, are nearly a mile square, and are
very beautiful. There are glorious old trees in
the grounds, and in some places it was like being
in a vast forest, far away from the "busy haunts
of men." We seated ourselves on some iron
chairs, near a pretty lake, in front of Kensington Palace, to enjoy the scene and partake of a
little lunch, when a very young gentleman with
a police decoration on his cap, came to demand
a fee for the chairs, which in the innocence of
our hearts, we thought some benevolent person
had placed there "pro bono publico." While we
willingly paid the demand, we were again struck
with the many ways of obtaining money. A boy
will chase a cab for a mile, to open the door for




42             THE OLD WORLD
you, and feel liberally rewarded for his polite
attention if you give him a penny.  Probably
these little jobs are all he has to depend upon.
Kensington Palace is a very unpretending brick
building, but interesting from having been the
abode of royalty for two centuries.
More than thirty years ago, a young girl of
eighteen, who then resided there with  her
mother, was awakened in the night and told that
the Archbishop of Canterbury desired an interview; her uncle William the Fourth having
just died. She hastily attired herself and met
the venerable prelate. He informed her of her
accession to the throne, and in deep agitation,
her first words were, "I ask your prayers in my
behalf."  Tihy knelt down together, and thus
the young sovereign inaugurated her reign. How
well she has fulfilled the trust reposed in her, up
to the present hour, we all know, for certainly
no Queen has better deserved the devotion of
her' loving subjects, than the excellent Queen
Victoria.
We are about to leave England for a season,
and we do so with much regret, for
" O, England! full of years, yet passing fair,
I drink thy beauty with a child's delight."




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.         43
Paris, May 19.
The dreaded Channel has been passed, and like
many another "uncertain evil," it has proved
only imaginary. We were two hours crossing
from Dover to Calais, and scarcely a ripple could
be seen on the surface of the water. The trip
was really most charming, and we all felt that
the Channel had been undeservedly abused. We
could not but wonder, however, what travellers
were expected to do, in case of the storms which
are so frequent on that sea, when the accommodations of the steamer were so very limited.
How such boats on such a thoroughfare can be
tolerated, is certainly most remarkable.  At
Calais our luggage was seized upon by men in
blue blouses, who rushed up two pairs of high
steps, which were covered with a green slippery
slime; for the tide was low, and the dock, which
ought to have been underneath the water, was
now standing out in bold relief. On reaching
the top, we were ushered into a bedlam, known
generally as a custom-house, where we fully
realized the sage remark of Thomas Hood, that
"even the children in France speak French."
The custom-house officers were very polite, and
believed us when we answered "rien," without




44            THE OLD WORLD
investigating very closely. So we were soon on
our way again, and were rather glad to know
that the country about Calais was marshy and
bleak, for we were almost immediately enveloped
in such a cloud of dust, that it was impossible
to see anything. Such dust I think I never
encountered before, and we were not sorry when
at the end of six hours we found ourselves in
bright, cheerful Paris, at the most comfortable
Hotel de L'Athenee. Our stay will not be long
just now, but we have indulged in a bit of gayety
in the shape of a visit to the Cirque de l'imperatrice, where we saw wonderful riding, beautiful
horses, and a building of vast dimensions, most
tastefully arranged. The French clowns, even
when they do not say anything, are so exquisitely funny in their actions, that one cannot help
being amused, and we laughed very heartily at
their various antics.
The Hotel des Invalides interested us extremely,
and we were glad to see the hundreds of old and
infirm soldiers there so kindly cared for.  A few
are still left who fought under the first Napoleon, and who remember him  with affectionate reverence. We were shown the kitchen,




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.         45
dining-hall, and library, and were allowed to
enter the old church, which in Napoleon's day
was adorned with nearly three thousand flags.
Underneath the Dome des Invalides is the superb tomb of Napoleon, in a circular excavation
many feet deep.  The floor is composed of
laurels formed in mosaic, from  the centre of
which rises the reddish brown granite sarcophagus, which is surrounded by twelve colossal figures, emblematic of victory. At the entrance of
the vault are the words from Napoleon's will, in
which he asks that his ashes may repose upon
the borders of the Seine, in the midst of the
French people whom he has so much loved. We
could not but be glad that his last wish was
gratified.
The famous Bois de Boulogne has been enchanting in this bright weather, and we enjoyed
its miles of lovely drives exceedingly. We found
it thronged with carriages of every description,
and all the elegance of Paris seemed to be in
them. The beautiful cascades and lakes are so
like nature, that one can scarcely believe they
have been arranged by the hand of art, and that
the rocks are not real rocks, formed by a higher




46            TrHE OLD WORTLD
power than man. The Vacherie, with its fifty
handsome cows, delighted us very much. It is
surrounded by beautiful grounds, and there are
tables at which persons can sit and partake of
the innocent luxury of fresh milk. It was
served in small white china bowls, and the pretty
picturesque costume of the young waiting maids,
and their pleasant manners, added greatly to
the charm. Many occupants of the carriages
ordered the milk to be brought to them  there,
and enjoyed it at their leisure without alighting.
We dined with some friends at the Cafe de- Madrid, and were the victims of our cunning cocher,
who took us in the most circuitous direction possible, and several times lost his way in order to
prolong the expedition. The Cafe was about ten
minutes' drive from the Vacherie, and we were an
hour and a half reaching it. However, the place
proved so agreeable, and we enjoyed the meeting
with dear friends so much, that'we soon forgot
the slight annoyance. Our excellent dinner was
served to us in a lovely shaded bower, in the
nicest manner possible, and as the garcon who
attended us had lived a few years in our "land of
steady habits," he took particular pleasure in bestowing upon us his society and patronage. We




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.         47
asked him if he intended returning to Connecticut, and were not surprised that he said "no"
very emphatically; for a pleasure-loving ZFrenchman must find our busy, working land very dull.
Paris has quite reminded us of home, in the
building which we see going on in all directions,
and in the tearing down of many places already
built. The throngs in the streets are incessant,
and we have looked with wonder at the dexterity
with which men on velocipedes have managed to
rush by vehicle after vehicle, and shape their
course between and among them, without in any
way interfering with their speed, or endangering
themselves.
Genoa, May 22.
We are thus far on our way to the "Eternal
City," having left Paris on the morning of the
nineteenth. The country was most interesting
during the entire day, being through Burgundy,
with its beautiful vineyards, and rows upon rows
of poplar-trees, with an occasional sprinkling of
the morus multicaulis.
At Dijon, the conductor announced that we
should remain twenty-eight minutes, and as
we were informed that there was an excellent
table d'hote at the station, we decided to try




48             THE OLD WORLD
it. IWe were shown into a large pleasant room,
with neat muslin curtains at the eight windows.
The table-cloth was as white as snow, and the
napkins, ditto. W$e had seven different courses,
with changes of plates at each course. Soup,
roast beef with potatoes, lamb  and  spinach,
pickled fish, asparagus, roast chicken and salad,
pudding, followed by coffee, cheese, and fruit.
Everything was beautifully served, without bustle
or confusion; and of course there was a profusion of Burgundy wine, there being three bottles
placed before each plate. There were also at intervals in the centre of the table, circular shelves in
pyramidal form, which were filled with bottles.
All this was furnished for a little more than four
francs each person. Shall we ever see the time
in our own land when a meal can be eaten so
comfortably at a railway station?
Six o'clock the next morning found us very
near Marseilles, crossing a dreary fiat, composed
of stones and high grass, with a decidedly saltish
atmosphere prevailing. We were glad to refresh
ourselves at a comfortable hotel, after our night in
the cars, and afterwards we drove about the city.
From a bare, rocky hill, called Notre Dame de la
Garde, from the curious chapel on the summit, we




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SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.           49
had a fine view of Marseilles itself, which is
spread over a gradually sloping basin, and surrounded by hills covered with vineyards, and
olive gardens, among the. bleak-looking rocks.
On the other side, the beautiful blue Al~editerranean stretches far off in the distance.  The
chapel of "La bonne Mere," is in so elevated
a situation, that the ascent to it cannot be made
without much panting and many pauses, but it
is a great resort. An image of the Virgin, carved
in olive wood, and of great antiquity, is held
in the highest veneration throughout the Mediterranean by sailors and fishermen and their
families, who bestow offerings of all kinds to propitiate her favor. -  t every convenient place in the
ascent, we found women stationed with candles,
medals, and rosaries, which they urged us to buy,
and which we respectfully declined doing. Our
stay in Marseilles was rather brief, but quite satisfactory, and we had a charming expedition to
Nice on the same day, by the railway which skirts
along the sea-shore. The scenery much of the
time was very grand, and we passed Toulon with
its strongly fortified harbor, Cannes, and other
favorite winter watering-places.
At Cannes, Lord Brougham, full of years and
4




0              BETHE OLD WORLD
honors, had died a short time before at his pretty
villa, named Louise Eleonore. Nice, with its
surrounding mountains to shut out the cold
winds from the glorious sea at the south, must be
a delicious winter climate. The temperature is
soft and mild, and flowers are in blossom  all the
year round in the open air-while there are
orange trees in every stage, from the blossom to
the mature fruit. The town is almost deserted
now, and it was with difficulty that we found a
hotel prepared to take us in. The "Hotel de
France" at length opened its hospitable doors,
and we found it pleasantly situated and well
kept. The next morning we drove to the old
chateau, a very high point which is reached by a
road, en zigzag, and fr.om which we had a glorious
view of the city, the Mediterranean, and the
spurs of the Alps in the distance.
We are in the midst of tropical fruits and flowers, and constantly see the most brilliant geraneums growing wild in great profusion. The
single scarlet poppy seems to be the weed of the
country, and we see millions of them in the fields,
and by the roadside, making everything look very
gay. When we left Nice, I carried in my hand a
branch containing seven oranges, which I had




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.          51
picked in the garden of the hotel. Our sail of
eight hours, from Nice to Genoa, was delightful.
The sea was perfectly calm, and we kept near the
shore, thus having a good view of the mountains,
the various towns, and the marvellous Cornice
road, which follows the indentations of the shore,
now ascending, and then descending high mountains, and then appearing again along the beach.
We have spent a part of two days in wandering about Genoa, which is well called "La Superba" from its commanding position upon the
Bay, and the magnificence of its palaces and
churches. The streets in nearly all parts of the
town, however, are very narrow, and as there are
no sidewalks, the middle of the street is as
much used by pedestrians as any other part. The
long white scarf which the women arrange so
gracefully about their heads, and which falls in
light folds over their necks and arms, is very
picturesque, and gives a softness to the plainest
face.
From  the church of Sante Maria di Carrignano, we had a perfect view of the city with its
superb situation; and the church itself, a fine
building of black and white marble, is one of
great interest. It was built at a great expense




52             THE OLD WORLD
by the Saulis family, who also erected a grand
bridge over a dry chasm, in order to make the
church accessible. It has some very fine pictures
and statuary, among them a martydom by Carlo
Maratti, which is very striking.
In one of the public squares stands the beautiful monument erected to the memory of Columbus, whom the Genoese are proud to claim as
their son. Columbus stands tall and erect, with
an earnest expression of face, his hand resting
upon an anchor, while a fimale figure, representing America, is kneeling and looking up at him.
The base of the monument bears this inscription:
A
CHRISTOFERO COLOMBO.
LA PATRIA.
An ancient house near by is pointed out as one
in which Columbus once lived. We drove out to
the famous Pallavicini villa, which is about five
miles from the city. Everything that taste and
wealth combined can do, has been done to mnake
this place mosL charming. There are fountains,
cascades, summer-houses, grottos, statues, exquisite flowers, and rare trees. In one of the grottos
we entered a boat, and were rowed through nar



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.           53
row passages, formed of stalactites, and on coming
out again at another side, we found ourselves surrounded by banks of flowers, and floating on a beautiful little lake. There is a constant succession of
surprises about the grounds, and when one enters
an attractive summer-house, and receives a jet of
water, fine as spray, from an unseen source, the
surprise is decidedly startling.  The whole scene
was exquisite, and one felt like lingering there a
longer time than the guide was disposed to give.
Our drive back to Genoa, over a dusty road, was
not a pleasant exchange for this Paradise.
Florence, NMay 28.
The morning after our departure from  Genoa
found us in Leghorn, where we landed from the
steamer in a small boat, and were received by the
dreadful clatter of an Italian crowd, who insisted
on seizing every parcel, ourselves included, and bestowed attentions upon us which we would gladly
have dispensed with. Fortunately the customhouse officers manifested less interest in us and
our possessions, and let us off very easily.
We made ourselves quite at home at the " Victory and Washington Hotel," names we are accustomed to associate together, and after breakfast sallied forth in search of whatever might




54            THE OLD WORLD
interest us in in this bustling seaport town.
The principal result of our expedition was the
purchase of a Leghorn hat, which we bought in
the usual dishonest Italian way, by offering the
man just half the sum he asked for it. As it was
all it was worth, we were not surprised that he
should have taken it, but we did not admire the
principle of the thing very much.
We were not disposed to linger long in Leghorn, and were soon on our way to Pisa, where
the Leaning Tower, the Cathedral, the Baptistry, and the Campo Santo, form a splendid group
of buildings. The Leaning Tower certainly does
lean fearfully, and it will probably always remain
a point in dispute, whether the inclination was
intentional or not, as it has now been six centuries in this position. At the top of the tower are
the bells, to contain which it was erected. They
vary in size, but are all large and heavy, and are
always rung at funerals.
The Cathedral is very old and grand, and
among its wonderful contents, we looked with
much interest at the large antique bronze lamp,
suspended from the ceiling, which first suggested
to Galileo the theory of the pendulum, nearly
three hundred years ago. The high altar of the




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.          55
Cathedral is very large, and elaborately ornamented, and there are some very fine paintings
of. Andrea del Sarto.
The Baptistry is very beautiful, being almost
entirely of marble; but there is a look of desolation about it when one first enters, as the space is
wide and high, and only broken by the font and
pulpit. The latter is exquisitely carved, and
supported by seven columns, composed of different marbles, which rest upon  the crouching
figures of animals. There is a very remarkable
echo in the Baptistry, and the really musical
voice of our guide was repeated again and again
in the most sonorous manner, as he sang in loud
tones to call out the response.
The Campo Santo is composed of cloisters,
lined with  curious old frescoes, and within
these cloisters is the sacred earth brought from
Jerusalem in twelve hundred and twenty-eight.
Most of the tombs are very curious and old,
many of them very elaborately sculptured and
adorned with statuary. There are some modern
tombs amlong them, for burials take place here
still, occasionally; and among the recent monuments we saw one to Count Cavour, the great
statesman and benefactor of Italy.




56            THE OLD WORLD
We drove past the Palazzo Lanfranchini, prettily situated on the Arno, in which Lord Byron
lived some time, and where he wrote some of his
most famous and most wicked poems. The railway from Pisa was through a most charming, cultivated country, which becomes more and more
beautiful the nearer it approaches Florence.
Now, as I write, I hear the rushing of the waters
of the Arno, in front of the hotel, and although
truth compels me to say that the river looks decidedly muddy and yellow at this season of the
year, yet it is the Arno, and we are in Firenze la
Bella! What treasures have we already laid up
in the way of paintings and sculpture! How
impossible ever to forget them, and yet how iinpossible to describe them.
The first look at the Pitti Palace suggests a
prison, so abundant are the iron bars, and so
rough the walls. One can hardly imagine the
feelings of the dying Medici, who replied to the
priest, when he was describing to him the heavenly joys upon which he was about to enter:
"But I am content with the Pitti Palace."
When once within, however, it is not difficult to
understand his entire satisfaction.  We were
shown through the elegant private apartments of




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.         57
King Victor Emanuel, looking  out upon the
Boboli gardens, which are a profusion of terraces,
and adorned with flowers, statuary, and fountains,
an exquisite picture in themselves. Then the pictures within!  What a feeling of possession it
gives one to see the Madonna della Seggiola of
Raphael, the Virgin and Child of Murillo, the
Bella Donna and Magdalen of Titian, and hundreds of others, of which one has heard, and
seen in prints so many, many times. We wandered for hours, drinking in all these pleasures
with a delight that never wearied.
From the Pitti Palace we went to the Uffizi
Gallery by means of a long corridor, or covered
bridge, which takes one over the Arno, and is
hung the greater part of the way with tapestry.
With very little delay, we sought the "Tribune,"
in the centre of which stands the far-famed
YVenus de Medici, beautiful in form and extremely
graceful, but without the soul in her face which
one would like to see.  Near her, hang the
Madonna del Cordellino, La Fornarini, and St.
John Preaching in the Desert, by Raphael, and a
Madonna and Child by Andrea del Sarto. Each
one a gem, of which one could never tire.
The device of Florence, a rose in a field of




58             THE OLD WORLD
lilies, seeims a very appropriate one, situated as
she is in a theatre of verdant hills, covered with
vines and olives, and dotted with villas. There
is a constant fascination about life here, and one
cannot but feel that ample provision is made for
harmless enjoyments-enjoyments which cultivate and refine. Pictures, statues, music, flowers,
seem  a part of the place itself. The drive to
the Cascine is a never-failing source of attraction,
and for two or three hours of an afternoon,
all Florence can be seen, walking or driving
along the banks of the Arno, underneath the
magnificent trees, or stopping near the Grand
Duke's farm-house to listen to the band. This
is the great gathering point, and carriages draw
up side by side, for the inmates to converseflower-girls in picturesque costume, dash rashly in
among the horses, to offer you their fragrant bouquets-ladies on horseback, attended by officers
in full uniform, add to the beauty of the scene,
while children with their nurses are made happy
by a ramble in the woods, or by the river-side.
A gayer scene it is scarcely possible to imagine.
Even the coachmen, it is said, partake of this
elegance, and in case of any disturbance among
themselves, classically call upon Venus or Bac



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.         59
chus, or swear "by the aspect of Minerva!"
This I cannot vouch for, not having been the
witness of any such contention.
It is pleasant to know that in the midst of all
this gayety, so much is being done to instruct
and elevate, by means of religious teaching and
literature.  The orphan  asylum  and public
schools, under the care of an Italian Protestant,
are very successful; while the Bible, and various
religious works published by the Italian Evangelical Publication Society, are circulated with a
freedom which a few years ago would have been
deemed impossible.
We have enjoyed meeting Mr. Powers, the
sculptor, of whom all Americans are proud, and
it was a great pleasure to be conducted about
his studio by him. We regarded the long apron
and closely-fitting linen cap, as becoming articles
of dress on him, and his fine eyes glowed with
feeling as he spoke of his native land.  The
Greek Slave, long so familiar to us, looked more
beautiful than ever, by the side of her master,
and we saw many exquisite busts and statuesamong them the busts of our countrymen Edward
Everett, Robert C. Winthrop, and Doctor Bel



60            THE OLD WORLD
lows-all of which were wonderfully like the
originals.
I could not but think, as I stood there, of the
little Kentucky boy, the son of a United States
Senator, who on his return from  Louisville,
where he had been to see the Greek Slave, fell:from the cars between Frankfort and Lexington,
and his arm was so terribly crushed that it had
to be amputated. When his weeping mother
went to his bedside, shortly after the operation
was over, and said to him, "My poor boy, your
visit to Louisville has been a dear one to you."
"Ah, mother," replied the little fellow, with a
look and tone of animation, "but I saw the Greek
Slave." It is not strange that Mr. Powers should
have been touched by such a tribute to his
genius, and he expressed a strong desire to know
the fate of the heroic boy. It is more than
thirty years since Mr. Powers has seen his native
country, yet he is enthusiastically American, and
has honored us abroad, not only by his works,
but in his pure, spotless life —a life quiet and
unostentatious, but full of love and charity to all.
We visited the house in which Michael Angelo
lived and died —it is quaint and old-fashioned,




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.            61
but the  apartments are  quite  spacious and
elegant.  They are kept very nearly as they
were in the days of the wonderfully gifted artist,
and many of his sketches hang upon the walls,
with other works of art-among them portraits
of Dante, Petrarch, and other celebrated men of
Tuscany. In a little cabinet where he used to
write, are preserved his sword and cane, and a
pair of slippers which he wore more than three
hundred years ago. W~e felt as if the genius of
the place must be near, on seeing these things of
every-day use.
A house not less interesting to us was one with
a marble slab inserted in the wall, telling the
passers-by that here lived and. wrote Elizabeth
Barrett Browning-the Casa Guidi which she
has immortalized in her grand poem. We afterwards went to the beautiful cemetery, where a
sculptured sarcophagus, with only the letters
E. B. B. inscribed upon it, shows the last restingplace of this truly great and noble woman. How
touching seemed her own lines, as we stood there:
And, friends!-dear friends!-when it shall be
That this low breath has gone from me,
And round my bier ye come to weep,
Let one, most loving of you all,
Say "Not a tear must o'er her fall,' He giveth his beloved sleep!'"




62            THE OLD WO7RLD
The Cathedral, with the dome which Michael
Angelo so much admired, and the Baptistry with
its wonderful bronze doors, are objects of great
interest. So, too, is the Santa Croce, with its
many monuments to illustrious dead-among
them Michael Angelo, Dante, and Galileo. The
Medicean Chapel at the San Lorenzo is gorgeous
in beautiful marbles, exquisite mosaics and precious stones, the lofty walls being entirely covered
with them. The Grand Dukes of Tuscany are
glorified in this chapel, their remains lying in the
crypt below, while their armorial bearings adorn
the walls above, and statuary and cenotaphs denote their rank and wealth. Some of the statues
are by Michael Angelo. One, of the Duke of Urbino, in a sitting posture, is very grand. He was
the father of Catherine de Medici, who afterwards became the queen of Henry the Second of
France, and rendered herself infamous by her
persecution of the Huguenots.
Rome.
A lovely moonlight evening found us on our
way here, and the night passed so very rapidly.that there seemed only a few moments between
the announcement of the names of the different
towns we passed through. The beautiful, cloud



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.         63
less early morning found us in a country so enchanting that we were glad to unclose our weary
eyes and gaze with delight, even after a night of
little sleep. The scenery was varied, and comnprised every variety of natural beauty-sometimes mountainous, with rugged rocks, then cultivated plains, green slopes, and sheltered valleys.
Everywhere we saw a profusion of grape-vines
growing in festoons between trees; a graceful
arrangement which we had not observed before.
We journeyed on through this enchanted land
until nearly ten o'clock, when the dome of St.
Peter's burst upon our view, and in a few moments more we were in Rome. Rome,
"The city that so long
Reigned absolute, the mistress of the world."
When we alighted from the cars a ruin met
our gaze at once-some magnificent fragments of
the baths of Diocletian; and we felt this to be a
proper introduction to the grand old city,
although it was rather a sad reminder of past
greatness. We drove at once to the Hotel de
Londres, on the Piazza di Spagua, where rooms
awaited us, with balconied windows looking out
upon the square, and within sound of the quaintlooking fountain near by. It was so pleasant to




64            THE OLD WORLD
sit there and rest, and realize that we were in
Rome, that for some hours we were very quiet.
A charming afternoon, however, tempted us to
drive to St. Peter's, where we found no words in
which to express our admiration and astonishment. The semi-circular colonnades, so familiar
to us in pictures, seemed more remarkable still,
when we saw that they were supported by four
rows of columns, with sufficient room between
the inner rows for the passage of two carriages
abreast.  The fountains, too, as we heard the
plashing of the gracefully-falling water, added
not a little to the beauty of the entrance to this
majestic temple. The interior so completely bewilders one with its splendor and magnificence,
that it is impossible for a long time to take it in,
or comprehend its magnitude. Marbles, mosaics,
pictures, gilding and brilliant colors abound, and
one must look again and again before one can
appreciate its treasures, or the gigantic scale on
which everything is arranged. The bronze canopy,-in itself large enough for a small church,which covers the high altar, stands beneath the
stupendous dome, and underneath the high altar
is said to be the grave of St. Peter himself. This
altar is only used on solemn occasions, and then




~_=T_A___________________
_____     l____________ __
1___~   ~ —— fT~l ~ —,..~... —l~ _   ll l __ll_____/__
ST. PETIER~'S,








SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.          65
the Pope officiates. Near by is the celebrated
bronze statue of St. Peter, sitting in a chair, with
the right foot extended, which has been so often
and so lovingly. kissed by the faithful that several
of the toes have lost their shape. We noticed
that some particularly neat persons wiped it off
with a clean pocket handkerchief before kissing,
while we strongly suspected that most of the devotees did not possess that necessary article; St.
Peter's being open to all ranks and conditions.
Soon after our return to the hotel, two funeral
processions passed through the Piazza in front of
our windows, consisting of long files of monks in
white robes, bearing tapers. Their chanting, which
sounded like the most dismal wailing, was anything but exhilarating, and we were not sorry
when the doleful psalmody ceased, and the procession disappeared.
Sunday being Whitsunday, we went early to
the Sistine Chapel, in the prescribed black dresses
and vails, without which no women are admitted,
so that we all looked as if we had suddenly gone
into mourning. After passing the Swiss Guard,
in their curious costumes, composed of red, yellow and black stripes, with white plumes and
broad ruffles, we took our places at the entrance,
5




66            THE OLD WORLD
among many others, dressed, like ourselves, in
sable garments.
When the doors were opened there was a rush
for the best seats, and much pushing and scrambling, quite in the style of a theatrical entertainment. A lively conversation was kept up on all
sides, not only until the service commenced, but
long after; and we were quite amused with a
young English girl who had recently become
converted to the Roman Catholic faith, who
gossipped and dropped upon her knees, all in
one breath.
The ceremonies were very imposing, and the
music, at times, very grand. The cardinals, in
their red hats, and long scarlet silk gowns,
entered one by one. Their trains were tied in a
knot until they were in the chapel, when two
attendants untied and spread them out several
yards upon the floor, in a sadly wrinkled state.
We were struck with the remarkably fine faces
of many of the cardinals —among them Cardinals
Antonelli and Bonaparte-the latter resembling
the pictures of the first Napoleon very much.
The Pope wore his triple crown, studded with
jewels, and was one mass of gold, rich lace, and
all kinds of "man millinery."  He spoke very




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.          67
distinctly-his strong ringing voice resounding
through the chapel with great clearness. Two
handsome little Italian boys of eight or ten years
of age, superbly dressed in matroon-colored velvet, and who are the Pope's pages, interested us
very much with their bright faces and sparkling
eyes, and we could not but wonder what the future
had in store for them.
When the service was over, a very motley
procession wended its way down the staircases
and in the colonnade, composed of the Swiss
Guard, ladies in black veils, cardinals in bright
robes, and priests in every variety of sacerdotal
garment. At the foot of the staircase, the
superb carriages of the cardinals drove- up, with
a coachman in full livery upon the box, and
three footmen standing up behind, bedecked
with velvet and gold embroidery, making a
most showy appearance as they dashed rapidly
along.
We have made very pleasant visits to solne of
the studios, and found most of the artists still in
Rome, although it is getting late in the season.
Mr. Mozier has some exquisite statues-among
them the 11 Penseroso of Milton, full of dignity




68            THE OLD WORLD
and grace; Rebecca at the Well, and the Prodigal
Son, which is very expressive and beautiful. A
lovely little statue called "Spring," representing
a young girl plucking a flower, proved a temptation to one of our party, and he became the
fortunate possessor of the fair young creature.
Tn the studio of the poet-painter, Mr. Buchanan
Read, we were much interested in a picture called
"Sheridan's Ride," which was intended to illustrate his well-known poem. The General's eager,
earnest face, full of fire and courage, and the
unflinching spirit of his superb horse, are very
finely expressed, and the whole painting is lifelike and animated.
We found many things in Miss Hosmer's
studio to admire —the queenly Zenobia, and the
laughing Puck, among them.  The statue of
Thomas H. Benton, made for the city of St.
Louis, is very dignified and grand, although some
one has said of it, that the " ideal Benton hangs
his head, which the real Benton never did."
Miss Hosmer's apartments looked so thoroughly
charming, that we were not surprised at the
fascination this land of art and song has for her.
Mr. Terry had a lovely Marguerite on the easel,
and there were also some other gems in his




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.         69
studio, in the way of portraits and historical
paintings. In Mr. Rhinehart's studio we found
much to delight us, but we were particularly
charmed with his Hero-the Hero of Leander.
Mr. Charles Francis Adams, our accomplished
minister to England, stood quite spell-bound
before this exquisitely graceful statue for some
time, and we could not but admire his taste.
After enjoying so many specimens of modern
art, we paid a visit to the Vatican, where the
galleries are so amazing as to defy all description. New splendors open upon you continually,
and its treasures are so numerous that no imagination can conceive their wonderful variety.
Many of them  are world-famous, but it would
take a life-time fully to appreciate them all. The
Apollo Belvidere standing so exaltant in his
triumphant beauty, and the Laocoon so impressive in his dying agony, one can never forget.
Equally impossible would it be to forget the
Transfiguration, and Madonna di Foligno  of
Raphael, the Communion of St. Jerome by
Domenichino, and many others, which once seen,
are forever impressed on the memory.
We have been driving much about Rome, and
everywhere we find it intensely interesting.




70            THE OLD WORLD
Some of the streets may be dirty and gloomy,
but there ias      something to make one forget
that they are so, and they are never commonplace. Whichever way you turn a fountain is
sure to be playing, for water is as abundant as
the light of day itself, and these fountains are
in themselves constant objects of pleasure. The
ruins of IRome must be seen to be fully comprehended. The Forum with its broken columns;
the temples, baths, palaces, and remains of old
aqueducts — the Colosseum, vast and grand,
which now at the end of eighteen centuries is
defying the touch of time. Great care, however,
is taken to preserve it as it is, and in many
places, new bricks have been inserted to prop
the crumbling walls. The arches are very fine,
and as one wanders under them, and through
the corridors, the deserted look, the intense
silence, the drooping vines and grass upon the
walls, and the evident disuse, are very striking.
It is difficult to feel that those three galleries
used to be filled with more than a hundred
thousand spectators, who assembled to witness
and applaud scenes of cruelty which one shrinks
to think of. Our second visit to the Colosseum
was by moonlight, when it looked grander than




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.         71
ever, in the strong lights and shadows; and as
we wandered through some of the dark passages
by the light of torches, we almost expected to
meet some of the shadowy forms of those who
once filled those long, long vacated seats.
The immense size of the structure is better
appreciated when one ascends to the very top,
although it is difficult even then to believe (as
has been computed) that " three hundred houses,
twenty feet wide, and forty feet deep, with alleys
between, could stand on the ground covered by
the ruins of the great amphitheatre."
They are still making excavations in Rome,
and disclosing wonderful antiquities which have
been hidden from human eyes for centuries; and
we were astonished at many of the new discoveries in the Baths of Caracalla, and Palace of
the Cesars, both of which are vast heaps of
irregular ruins.  Arches, courts, columns half
burned, and sometimes entire, meet the eye,
covered with shrubs and flowers and grass-for
nature seems to rejoice in making decay beautiful. Rooms with mosaic pavements have recently
been revealed, the figures of the pavements retaining their forms and colors perfectly, while
marble columns and statuary have been brought




72            THE OLD WORLD
to light unbroken. We were very much amused
with the jealous care with which the excavations
are guarded. One of our party. picked up a
rough piece of porphyry from a heap of rubbish,
as a little memento, and was immediately accosted
by a soldier in uniform, who appeared so suddenly, that he seemed to rise up out of the
gTound. Trifling as the pillage was, it was
necessary to place it again where it was found,
and afterwards, wherever we went, we saw that
as watchful eyes were upon us, as if we were
expected to run off with the entire ruins.
It was rather refreshing to find something not
in ruins, and we enjoyed very much our drive to
the Borghese and Pamfili Doria villas, which are
beautiful reminders of the old aristocratic life
of Rome. Their present owners, however, are
very glad to take the fees which are constantly
brought by the throngs of visitors to these
charming places. The grounds. of the Villa
Borghese are several miles in circumference, and
beautifully diversified. There are avenues of
grand old trees, and a profusion of fountains and
ancient statues. The interior of the villa is rich
in marbles, mosaics, statues and pictures, the
most famous modern statue being that of Pauline




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.          73
Borghese, the sister of Napoleon, represented as
the Venus Victrix. She is reclining on a couch,
and the position is most graceful, and her face
very beautiful. It was for this statue that
Pauline Bonaparte sat to Canova, with so little
drapery about her, that a lady troubled with
some scruples on the score of delicacy, asked her
if the exposure was not excessively disagreeable.
""Not at all," was the reply, "the room  was
thoroughly warmed."
Villa Pamfili Doria was once called Bel Respiro
on account of its climate, and its charming
variety of scenery. The drive through the
grounds is very extensive and beautiful. They
are laid out in gardens, terraces and plantations,
with fantastic fountains and cascades.  The
views from many points are very fine and extensive, and it is an interesting fact that nearly
twenty years ago, the republican troops of
Garibaldi occupied these grounds, and for many
weeks maintained their position against the
whole power of the French army. Several distinguished men on both sides fell here, during
the struggles between the contending armies.
The villa itself is full of gems, and looked tho



74            THE OLD WORLD
roughly comfortable and inhabitable, with its
suites of charming rooms.
A touching memento met our eyes from one of
the windows, in the shape of a cluster of dark
green laurel bushes planted upon a sloping lawn,
which were arranged in the form of letters, and
spelt M-A-R-I-E, being in memoriam. The grass
is kept closely cut, and the laurels trimmed, so
*that the letters are perfect in form, and the
contrast of the dark green laurel with the light
green turf, is beautiful.
On our drive home from this lovely spot, we
saw two of the " Noble Guard" approaching on
horseback, and knew that they were the forerunners of the Pope.  So our carriage was
driven up to the side of the street, and the
masculine portion of its occupants alighted, and
with hat in hand, awaited the arrival of his
Holiness. It is expected that all in his way shall
kneel, and we were surrounded by crowds who
dropped upon the hard pavement with pious
zeal; but he waved his hands as benignly over us,
as over them. He may have suspected us of
being heretics, and thought we needed his blessing all the more. His face is kind and benevolent, and on the principle that "the blessing of




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.          75
an old man can do one no harm," we were not
sorry to receive the Papal Benediction.
We have not tried to do many of the churches,
of which there are just as many as there are
days in the year, but we have visited St. John
Lateran, with its beautiful Corsini and Torlonia
chapels. In the former is an exquisite picture
in mosaic of Guido's portrait of St. Andrea
Corsini, and in the vault beneath, a beautiful
group  by -Bernini,  representing  the Virgin
supporting the dead Christ. The expression of
maternal sorrow is most touching and wonderful,
while the holy serenity into which the face of
our Lord has subsided after its hours of agony,
is very affecting. It seemed a fitting illustration
of the words of the blind preacher —" Socrates
died like a philosopher, but Jesus Christ like a
GOD."
Under a fine portico at one side of the Basilica, are the famous Scala Santa, said to have
belonged to Pilate's house, and the identical
stairs which Christ descended when he left the
judgment-seat.  There are twenty-eight steps,
and they are ascended by penitents on their
knees, who say a short prayer at every step, and
reverently kiss every place marked by a cross,




76             THE OLD WORLD
showing where our Saviour's blood has fallen. So
constant has been this ascent during many years,
that it has been necessary to cover the marble
with boards, which are occasionally renewed.
One can hardly believe that in this enlightened
age such things are practised by all classes; but
richly dressed ladies and gentlemen are often
seen side by side with the most squalid beggarsall crawling up together, and kissing the same
ghastly crucifix at the top. It was here that
grand old Martin Luther was toiling up on his
knees, when the words "the just shall live by
faith," came so suddenly into his mind; and from
that time his belief in the doctrine of justification
by faith became so decided.
The Basilica of St. Paul, without the walls, is
very magnificent, abounding in mosaics, porphyry, lapis lazuli and malachite. Four exquisite
columns of alabaster support the canopy over the
high altar, underneath which are said to lie the
remains of St. Paul. The original church, which
stood on this site many centuries, was burnt
more than forty years ago, and princes and
sovereigns have contributed to the erection of
this gorgeous edifice.
In St. Pietro in Vincoli we saw the wonderful




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.          77
colossal statue of Moses, by Michael Angelo,
originally intended for the Basilica of St. Peters.
It is very grand and noble, but does not seem
placed in a position to show its remarkable
power.
The church of the Capuccini contains the
famous Archangel Michael, by Guido, called by
some the Catholic Apollo, and said by Smollett
to have "the airs of a French dancing-master."
He is crushing Lucifer, his adversary, beneath
his feet, and has, it cannot be denied, the look of
"tripping on the light fantastic toe," —but the
figure is both beautiful and graceful, and the
face full of sweetness and power. We went
underneath the church to see the four vaulted
chambers which constitute the cemetery of the
convent, and contain the bones of many thousand
monks; but when we saw the hideous array of
bones and skulls which decorate the walls, and
several skeletons standing erect, wearing the
brown cloth robes of the order, we were glad to
retreat as rapidly as possible. Everything is
done to make these bones ornamental, but one
cannot admire very much bouquets and garlands made of shoulder-blades and arms-neither does a lamp formed of a skull, and fast



78            THE OLD WORLD
ened to the ceiling by a chain of small bones,
seem either desirable or elegant.
One day, in driving through the tomb-lined
Appian way, we descended into the Catacombs
of St. Sebastian, so long the hiding-places of the
early persecuted Christians.  It is impossible
to visit these subterranean dwellings, without
wondering how existence could have been borne
there, even for a day; they are such extremely
dismal, melancholy places, and the air so thoroughly chilling. Each of us carried a taper,
which struggled for life in the heavy air, and
only made the darkness more visible. We were
conducted through  long  labyrinths, passage
opening  on passage, and now and then we
entered small chapels with vaulted roofs. Everywhere there were sepulchres hollowed out of the
soft rock, and the way was gloomy and dark.
We all kept very near our guide, and I fully
appreciated the thoughtfulness of #a party who
took the precaution to scatter small slips of
paper from the entrance to the farthest point,
that they might find their way back, in case the
guide was seized with a fit of apoplexy! I do
not remember ever to have rejoiced in the
glorious sunlight more thoroughly, than when




TSE   CATACOMBS.11   Sl
THE CATACOMBS.








SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.            79
we emerged from those dreary abodes of the
living and the dead.
The Protestant Cemetery is very pleasantly
situated; and were there no other graves there
than those of Shelley and Keats, it would be an
object of great interest. The solemn pyramidal
tomb of Caius Cestius, seems to watch over the
place, which is kept in  beautiful order, and
contains much precious dust, as many English
and Americans are now lying there.
The "heart of hearts" of Shelley, which the
fire on the shores of the Gulf of Spezzia could
not consume, lies underneath a plain marble
slab, in a lovely part of the grounds, while his
friend, John Keats, is placed in an adjoining
cemetery with the inscription he desired, engraved
on his tombstone: "Here lies one whose name
was writ in water."
"'Tis writ, as thou hast said,
Upon the cold, gray marble there,
Each word of that wild, bitter prayer,
On which thy spirit fled!
But, oh, that injured name is known'Far as the birds of fame have flown.' "
One could not but linger tenderly by the last
resting-places of men of such loving, noble hearts,




80             THE OLD WORLD
and brilliant intellects, whose brief lives terminated so sadly.
The Aurora of Guido, which Byron says,' I alone
Is worth a trip to IRome,"
is in a summer-house of the iRospigliosi Palace,
and is approached through a garden fragrant
with flowers. The picture is a fresco on the
ceiling, and the coloring exquisitely soft and
bright, while the radiant face of Apollo, and the
eager steps and smiling faces of the graceful
female figures representing the hours, are most
charming. The beautiful horses, too, seem  to
exult in the scene, and plunge forward as if eager
to drink in the glories of the new creation, while
the flowers scattered by Aurora, look as if freshly
plucked from  the garden without. The picture
is so attractive, that most fortunately, mirrors
have been placed beneath it in such a position
that we could see the reflection with untiring
eyes, and without aching necks. The constant
looking up we found so wearisome as to be at
last unendurable.
Guido's famous portrait of Beatrice Cenci, in
the Barbarini Palace, is familiar to every one
through the copies which are scattered far and




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.          81
wide, and it was interesting beyond description
to look upon the lovely original. The beautiful
eyes, swollen with weeping, and the look of
hopeless misery in the face, appeal so touchingly
to one's sympathy, that they haunt one long
afterwards. Then the loose drapery, the streaming hair, and negligence of dress, only add to
the pathos of the picture, while the fuill living
look of the eyes is almost startling at the first
glance. All her grand heroism seems crushed
out of her, and she looks now, when so near her
execution, like a gentle, tender woman, needing
the support and consolation which one wouild
fain give, if it were possible.
At the Capitol, we were much impressed with
the Dying Gladiator, so grand and proud in his
mortal anguish. One feels like gazing in total
and earnest silence upon such a death pang as
rends his brow. It is a comforting reflection, in
looking upon this most touching and tragical
representation, that marble men cannot suffer,
for although he," Consents to death, but conquers agony,"
it becomes at length painfully sad. It was a
relief to turn away and look, in the same hall,
upon the beautiful Antinous, so full of life and
6




82             THE OLD WORLD
strength, and such a perfect model of youthful,
graceful manhood.  The Venus of the Capitol,
too, claimed our attention, but I fear we did not
appreciate her merits fully, for we felt very little
enthusiasm for her cold, senseless beauty.
Our stay in Rome is so brief that we do not
have many hours unoccupied of the first days of
summer which greet us here.  The weather is
warm, but in no wise uncomfortable, and we are
willing to spare ourselves unavailing regrets in
the future, by seeing all that we can now, leaving
to more favored ones the pleasure of a more
thorough investigation.
" Early in life, when hope seems prophecy,
And strong desire can sometimes mould a fate,
My dream was of thy shores, 0 Italy!"
Now, how many of its "unnumbered beauties"
are becoming mine!
Naples, June 11.
Our last expedition in Rome was to the beautiful fountain of Trevi, where by the light of a
full moon, we drank to our return. Ah, how
glorious was that brilliant moonlit night, and
how  earnestly we hoped that this enchanted
water might be a spell to bring us back, at some
future time. Nous verrons!




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.          83
Our journey here was through as beautiful
a country as eye ever rested upon. Albano
was to the left of us-on either side, there
were mountains, with the valley between highly
cultivated.  The  inhabitants live mostly in
villages clustered upon the sides of the mountains, and for many miles before reaching Naples,
the country is entirely occupied as vegetable
gardens. About ten miles from the city we came
in sight of M1Voun i  Vesuvius, with a cloud of
smoke wreathing its top; and soon we were at
the railway station, beset by a crowd of yelling
Neapolitans, all eager to do something, or get
something, for we have long ago discovered that
beggary is one of the prominent features of Italy.
Everywhere, we are surrounded by beggars; and
they make their appearance in the most startling
and repulsive manner and at the most unexpected
times. On this occasion the little bright-eyed,
dirty boys amused us very much, and it was
difficult to resist their appeals for "maccaroni,"
made with such laughing faces, and frolicking
somersets and gestures.
We were soon established in most sumptuous
quarters, having nearly the whole Hotel Washington to ourselves-our rooms looking out




84             THE OLD WORLD
upon the beautiful bay, with Yesuvius in full
view from the windows, and lovely Capri in fiont
of us. Our tea was served on a balcony overhanging the water, near a pretty garden, and it
is difficult to imagine anything more thoroughly
enchanting. In the evening we spent an hour
at the Villa Reale, a pleasant promenade skirting
the shore, planted with trees, and adorned with
statuary.  There was music, talking, walking,
eating ices, and although but an ordinary occasion, it seemed quite like a fete. People in this
delicious climate live out of doors, and make the
most of everything in the way of pleasure.
Sunday was a national festival, and consequently, very unlike a day of quiet and rest.
The parading of the military, martial-music,
crowded streets, the national salute morning
and evening, created a great deal of noise and
confusion generally.  WVe heard a very earnest
sermon at the Scotch Church in the morning,
or we should hardly have recognized the day as
Sunday. In the evening, ~Vesuvius blazed up
like a vast furnace, and we felt as we saw the
various flashes, what vast reservoirs of fire and
flame were within, and what havoc might be the
result of their outpouring. There was also an




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SEEN WITH: YOUNG EYES.         85
illumination of the city, in honor of the festival,
and many of the buildings looked very beautiful.  The curious stalls at the sides of the
streets, with oysters, and various unpalatablelooking eatables, were a great feature of the
scene. The persons having charge of these
delicacies were excessively dirty, and excessively
noisy. We were not sorry to get out of the way
of their importunities to buy, and hurried home,
satisfied that an Italian crowd is an undesirable
one to mingle with.
On Monday we drove through the Grotto of
Pausilippo, above the entrance of which is the
Tomb- of Virgil. The grotto is about half a mile
in length, and anything but inviting to eye or
nose; being badly lighted, narrow  and dirty.
We found a charming country beyond, however,
and followed the sea as far as Pozzuoli, where we
were immediately attacked by ragged urchins,
and filthy beggars, who surrounded and followed
the carriage, offering their services as guides,
and thrusting bits of stones, old coins, and dried
sea horses in our faces. Annoying as it was, we
could not but pity the poor wretches, and make
some slight purchases. Everywhere we went,
there seemed to be vagabonds waiting for their




86            THE OLD WORLD
prey, and ready to dart out upon us, and we
found it unsafe to admire a pretty child on her
mother's lap, for we were immediately implored
to give her something. "Datemi qualche cosa,"
is on every one's lips.
The ruins of a temple here dedicated to Jupiter
Serapis, are very remarkable, although many of
its beautiful columns and statues have been
removed. The very stone,,. too, on which St.
Paul landed, is shown, and we looked at it rather
doubtingly, while we could not but pity any one,
who either then, or now, had occasion to land in
this vile, dirty place. But the drive along the
shore was beautiful, and the country one of unequalled interest. We pursued our way to Baie,
where Cicero, Horace, Pliny and Virgil once
lived; passing Lake Avernus and Lake Lucrine.
Near the former Lake is the Sybil's Cave, immortalized by Virgil. Visitors enter it clinging
to the back of an uncleanly guide, who carries a
torch, and plunges through dirty water, two or
three feet deep. When once within, they see
"two small chambers, two bathing tubs, a flight
of stone steps leading up to a closed door  a
few stucco figures very much begrimed with the
smoke of torches, black walls, and blacker




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.          87
water!" Only one of our party was sufficiently
classical to visit this charming spot, and we
suspected that he was considerably disgusted,
although, like all sight-seers who are taken in, he
was unwilling to acknowledge it.
We preferred driving the fourteen miles from
Naples to Pompeii instead of taking the cars,
and passed through Portici, Annunziata, and
Torre del Greco, all composed of long streets,
swarming with people, carts and donkeys. The
poor little oppressed, over-loaded donkeys, are a
constant tax upon our sympathy. They are so
brutally treated that I am often tempted to
appeal to their hard-hearted masters for mercy,
even with the probability of drawing down upon
myself the sarcasm used under similar circumstances: "I did not know that my donkey had
relations about here!"
On all sides during this drive, we discovered
proofs of the devastating power of the volcano,
while at the same time the soil is so fertile, that
cultivation showed itself in the midst of the
cinders and lava, everywhere to be seen. Pompeii
itself, in all its lonely desolation, is very attractive,
and one cannot visit it without inexpressible
emotion. Yet, with a hot sun shining on the




88            THE OLD WORLD
pavement, and not a tree to be seen, we found it
extremely fatiguing to wander through its untenanted dwellings, and quiet streets.  The
houses are so small, that it is very evident the
great enjoyment was in public life. The forum,
the baths, the theatre, are all on a grand scale,
and capable of accommodating great numbers.
The ancient inhabitants undoubtedly lived mostly
in the open air, as their descendants do. Their
houses all have a central court, beautifully paved
with mosaic, with a fountain in the centre.
Around this, the family and guests could gather
to gossip or rest. Some of these fountains were
very beautiful, and adorned with statuary and
mosaics. The rooms too, looking out upon the
court, are often decorated with exquisite taste,
the paintings upon the walls being wonderfully
brilliant in color. The subjects are mostly mythological.
The streets are so narrow that one can almost
jump across them, and there are ruts still
visible, made by the wheels of carts. Now and
then, high stepping stones are seen for the use
of pedestrians, in crossing. Some of the houses
must have been very extensive and luxuriousthose of Diomed and Sallust were particularly




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.           89
so. In the wine cellar of the former were found
the skeletons of eighteen adults and two children,
who had fled there for refuge when the sudden
calamity came upon them. The impressions of
their bodies are still distinctly seen upon the
walls, and one can imagine the agony and despair
of these hopeless, helpless beings.
"The palace is empty; the merchant's gold
Is uncounted upon his floor;
The aifrighted bridegroom hath turned and fled,
And the priest hath left his prayer unsaid,
And the mourner stays not to bury his dead
In that all-tremendous hour."
The Street of the Tombs in Pompeii is very
much as it was originally, and the Tombs are
nearly entire. Some of them are very beautiful,
and they all show the reverence with which the
ancients regarded the ashes of their ancestors.
Intercourse with the dead was maintained by
keeping their monuments and images in sight,
and thus cheerfulness, not gloom, was associated
with the idea of death. In a small museum, we
saw the four bodies which have been found in
recent excavations. Cinders had hardened around
the bodies during their decay, thus forming a
mould-liquid plaster was poured in, and thus
the perfect forms obtained. One figure is that




90            THE OLD WORLD
of a young woman, with her hand partly over
her face, as if shutting out some fearful sight.
There are two other women and a man thus
strangely brought to the light of day, after so
many centuries of darkness and decay. The
museum contains some household remains and
other relics, but the most valuable curiosities are
in the extensive museum at Naples, where whole
rooms are paved with mosaics brought from
Pompeii, and decorated with frescoes, statues
and bronzes, from the same source. There are
also vases and jars containing figs, corn, and
nuts, and whole loaves of bread still bearing the
baker's mark. Rich jewels, too, are seen-rings,
necklaces, head ornaments, armlets and anklets.
After our long walk we were glad to rest for a
time in the museum at Pompeii, after which we
sought refuge in a dirty little inn near by, where
we enjoyed our luncheon with some very tame
doves, which flocked about our feet picking up
crumbs, and walked past us in the most friendly
manner possible.  Our drive to Castellamare
and from thence to Sorrento, the same afternoon,
was charming. The road, after leaving Castellamare, wound along the bank for miles, with a
constant succession of varied views.  On the




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.          91
right lay the radiant sea, deeply, beautifully blue,
while the water at the base of the rocks beneath
us assumed the colors of the emerald, or reflected other hues, according to the influence of
light and shade, rock and depth. Capri and
Ischia lying against the pale azure sky, looked in
their vapory atmosphere like beautiful visions.
On the left were shattered mountains, projecting
crags, cultivated valleys-while orange, lemon
and olive trees greeted us on every side. We
passed from one scene of enchantment to another,
until we reached the Tramontano Hotel at
Sorrento, which we entered through a luxuriant
garden filled with oranges, lemons, roses and
myrtles. On the other side it overhangs a tall
cliff, against which the waves are eternally dashing,
Seated in our pleasant rooms, their balconies
high above the sea, with the balmy air, the
glorious moonlight, the pure sky, and all the
other bright surroundings, was like a dream of
perfect bliss. The next morning was so fine, and
the sea so smooth, that we were tempted to take
a boat, with four stout oarsmen, for Capri and
the Blue Grotto. The trip of twelve miles, we
were told, could be accomplished in two hours,
and our return much shortened, should the wind




92            THE OLD WORLD
prove favorable. So we started early and gayly
in a large, well-cushioned boat, with a striped
awning-our neat-looking rowers beguiling the
way with their pleasant Italian songs. The two
hours soon passed, and we found ourselves near
the rock-bound coast of Capri, while a small
boat, looking at first like a mere speck, came
dancing towards us, to bear us into the famous
Blue Grotto. A hideous old man, and an equally
hideous boy, took two of us at a time in the
frail-looking bark, and after stooping very low, a
wave sent us scratching through the small
aperture which leads into the wonderful cavern,
where the water that drips sparkling from the
oars is intensely blue, and the lovely color prevails everywhere.  The fascinating old man
insisted on diving for our benefit, promising for
five francs to come out of the water looking
wondrously radiant. But we were more than
satisfied with his present appearance, and declined, much to his disgust. Our sail home was
short, and most agreeable, and after yielding to
some temptations in the way of the beautiful
Sorrento wood-work-looking upon the house in
which the great Italian poet, Tasso, was born,
and taking a short time for rest and refreshment,




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.          93
we left for Naples. Most reluctantly we left, for
surely the wide earth does not contain a more
lovely, bewitching spot than Sorrento.
With the sea caressing her feet, olive-clad
hills protecting her on one side-flowers and
fruits thrown profusely in her  lap - balmy
breezes, and bright skies her constant attendants
— she sits in beauty, fairest of the fair.
We returned to Castellamare, by the same
road over which we had driven before, and were
not sorry to feed our eyes again on the same
divine prospect.
Our pleasant rooms at -the hotel, in Naples,
looking upon Sorrento, which we had so recently
left, seemed now to possess a new charm, as we
gazed across the glorious bay upon what we
might well call the "pride and darling of this
delicious shore."
Milan.
The old proverb, "See Naples and then die,"
occurred to me, as we stepped on board one of
the frail-looking Italian steamers at Naples, and
were about trusting ourselves to the tender
mercies of the treacherous Mediterranean. But
the Cristofero Colombo proved worthy of its
great namesake, and was both well-ordered and




94            THE OLD WORLD
appointed; and although it danced the sailor's
hornpipe, and floundered about generally more
than was quite comfortable, we had a safe and
tolerably pleasant voyage. The morning after
leaving Naples found us passing the Island of
Elba, and we all looked with interest upon a
scene so associated with Napoleon's first exile.
Nor did we forget that the last words of the
noble, heroic Josephine were, "Isle of ElbaNapoleon."
We were not long in reaching Leghorn, and
were much surprised to see a gang of Italian
banditti collecting upon the deck, chained together in couples. They had been our fellowpassengers, and were on the point of landing to
expiate their crimes-how or when, we could not
learn. Some of them looked as if it might be
mere child's play to cut off the ears or nose of a
captive, as is frequently done by them, while
others were quite crest-fallen. One of the party
enjoyed the unenviable reputation of having
committed several murders, while all were, more
or less, desperadoes. As they went clanking over
the sides of the vessel, strongly guarded, we were
glad that we had never found ourselves




SEEN -WITH YOUNG EYES.        95
"In an ill-starred hour
Beset, and in a Bandit's power."
As we did not remember our former visit to
Leghorn with much pleasure, we decided to
remain quietly on the steamer, during our day in
the harbor. We found it sufficiently amusing to
watch the various crafts about us, and to hear
the reports of those who trusted themselves with
the brigands on shore.  Another night at sea,
and we were in Genoa, which seemed quite like
home, as we went again to the Croix di Malta
and received the welcome of the friendly landlord. Part of the day sufficed for us here, and
late in the afternoon we entered one of the ten
gates of Milan, and drove to the Hotel Cavour,
pleasantly situated near a public garden. Our
windows look out upon a square, in the centre of
which is a beautiful monument to that great
man, Count Cavour, to whom Italy owes so much.
It is pleasant to see the obligation to him so
universally recognized, for in honoring him, Italy
honors herself. This monument consists of a
bronze statue standing on a marble pedestal,
with no other inscription than CAvOUR, which a
graceful female figure, representing Fame, has




THE OLD WORLD
just written, and is still holding the pen upon
the last letter.
Milan is so bright, clean and cheerful, and has
such a decided look of prosperity about it, that
we have enjoyed our sojourn here very much.
The Cathedral cannot but astonish and delight
with its wondrous beauty. The marble of wvhich
it is built has become mellowed by time, but is
none the less effective because its dazzling whiteness has disappeared; while the thousands of
statues of endless variety of sculpture, everywhere
to be seen, render it most elaborately- beautiful
The stained glass windows, some of which are
very old, are very rich in coloring, and the pavement, composed of red, blue, and white mosaics,
is extremely trasteful. Wherever one stands in
this noble edifice, that particular portion forms a
separate study, and the lofty arches and clusters
of pillars render it most majestic and grand.
We were present at one of the Corpus Christi
ceremonies at twilight, when a long procession
of priests with lighted torches passed through the
different aisles, chanting their service.   The
effect was very picturesque, and seemed more
like an act in some drama, than a real representation. In order fully to appreciate this most




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SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.          97
magnificent structure, one must ascend to the
roof, where its prodigality of adornments, forest
of exquisitely carved pinnacles, each one s-rmounted by a statue, fill one with amazement.
Our guide pointed a telescope to many very
beautiful statues by Canova, which are nearly out
of sight. The view from the roof is very fine on
a clear day, comprising the plains of Lombardy,
the Apennines, and the Alps, but we were not
fortunate enough to see it in its perfection. The
near view was very distinct, but mists veiled the
mountains, and rendered them  very obscure.
We were very glad to find a pretty little chapel
in Milan erected for the use of Protestants. The
service was delightful to us, and we heard a very
impressive sermon on the Love of the Brethren
as an indispensable characteristic of a true
Christian. The congregation was not large, but
we enjoyed with grateful hearts the privilege of
again joining in our beautiful Liturgy with those
whose language and belief were our own.
We went to the church of Santa Maria delle
Grazia, in order to see in the refectory of the
old convent, the famous Last Supper of Leonardi
di Yinci. Engravings give one a very good idea
of the picture, but the original has been so
7




98             THE OLD WORLD
disfigured by time, neglect and dampness, and
the colors are so faded, that it is difficult to form
any idea of its former beauty. It is a remarkable fact that the head  of Christ has been
preserved more perfectly than any of the others,
and the face retains much of its heavenly sweetness. Di Vinci was sixteen years painting this
celebrated picture, and  acknowledged  himself
unable to express his conceptions of the character
of our Saviour. But his success has been considered far beyond that of any other artist who
has attempted the same subject. It is a sad
thought that in a few years the picture must
entirely disappear-indeed, it is remarkable that
it now exists, when one remembers that when
Napoleon turned the monastery into barracks,
this room was used as a stable, and that the
picture was painted more than three centuries
ago.
We have found the shops in Milan very attractive, and the beautiful new  glass-covered
arcade, so bright and cheerfuil, that there is a
constant temptation to go there and sit by the
tables in front of the Cafes, to enjoy our ices,
and watch the passers by. The women look very
handsome with their long black veils thrown




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.           99
carelessly over their heads, and worn in th
place of a bonnet. Everywhere we see photographs of Prince Hunmbert and the Princess
iMarguerite, whose marriage has given so much
satisfaction to their loving subjects. In all the
jewellers' shops we notice ornaments of all kinds
and descriptions made to resemble the pretty
flower, the Marguerite.  It has become the
favorite decoration for both rich and poor, while
the fair young bride herself is seldom seen without it.
Bellagio, Lakce Como.
Our flight here was quite sudden, as one of
our party was too ill to remain long, "in populous cities pent." So we took the cars for Como,
the approach to which is exceedingly picturesque
and mountainous. The town itself has lost much
of its former importance, and looks like anything
but the rival of Milan, which it once was. The
situation, however, is lovely, and it boasts the
ruins of an old castle of feudal times, which
stands on a pinnacle overhanging the town. The
scenery on the lake is beautiful in the extreme,
and endless in its variety-so beautiful that it is
impossible to imagine or describe its charms.
The margin is studded with villas, while many of




LOO           THE OLD WORLD
the hills are terraced, and myrtles, olive and fig
trees give variety to the foliage. When we
reached the Hotel Grand Bretagne on the border
of the lake at'Bellagio, we were thoroughly
enchanted. It was delicious to sit by the shore
and enjoy the glorious view, until a late hour in
the evening. Our morning was spent on the top
of the great cathedral at Milan-one of the most
marvellous works of man.  The evening was
spent amidst God's great temples, whose towers
and turrets are the mountains, and whose pinnacles pierce the skies; whose ceilings are the
canopy of Heaven, lighted up by myriads of
stars. How grand and sublime the thoughts
inspired in such a sanctuary!
The next morning we wandered up a hill overhanging Bellagio, to visit the grounds of the
Villa Serbelloni, which is on a promontory that
divides the lake into- two branches. The views
in all directions are very fine, and the gardens
embellished with every species of flowering
shrub.
From various points, both branches of the lake
can be seen, with the Alps in the distance, which
looked rose-colored in the morning light. Late
in the afternoon we took a small, gayly-painted




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.          101
boat, and were rowed over the lake to the Villa
Carlotta, which is owned by the Prince of SaxeMeinengen. We landed on marble steps which
are built into the lake, and ascended two other
flights, with vines covering the balustrades, and
fountains at every landing-place that
"gushed forth
In the midst of roses."
One double flight of steps was completely
covered with a luxuriant passion vine, which was
one mass of flowers. We entered a magnificent
vestibule, where are some beautiful bas reliefs of
Thorwalsden, representing the triumph of Alexander. They were made for the arch at Milan,
but afterwards bought for this lovely villa. There
were many statues by Canova, among them the
original plaster cast of his Magdalen. All the
rooms contained pictures and statuary, and each
window looked out upon more lovely pictures
than those within. The grounds are exquisitely
beautiful, with glorious views up and down the
lake, and the whole scene was so like the one
described by Claude Melnotte to his Pauline, that
we could not but think he meant that very spot,
although most other villas probably suggest the
same oft-quoted lines,




102             THE OLD WORLD
" A palace lifting to eternal summer
Its marble walls, from out a glossy bower
Of coolest foliage, musical with birds,
Whose songs should syllable thy name!"
To make this description still more like a
charming reality, as we were walking through
the enchanted bowers, a nightingale commenced
pouring forth strain after strain of most joyous
melody. We stood entranced for some time,
listening to his delicious notes, which made the
whole air vocal. As we floated back to our hotel
with the glow of the setting sun upon the surrounding mountains, we felt that the half had
not been told of this enchanting lake —doubly
enchanting at this twilight hour.
Venice.
The next morning we had a three hours' row
to Lecco, enjoying the exquisite views that met
us at every step of the way, and then we took
our last look at the lovelylake, and were soon on
our way to Venice.  The whole country seemed
a succession of gardens, vineyards, and fields of
grain, and Lago di Garda, with its beautiful
surroundings, was in sight for some distance.
This lake, which vies with Como in beauty, is
nearly  enclosed by the Alps, which  form  a
mountain wall around  it, and  so  sofen its




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SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.          103
climate that the most delicate grapes and fruits
ripen upon its shores.
The approach to Venice was so sudden that we
could hardly believe we were actually in the
wonderful city which seems to belong neither to
the sea nor to the land.  Yet when we were
seated in the funereal-looking gondola, with its
black cushions and blacker covering, we felt how
unlike the departure fromn any other railway
station it was. As we glided along, we saw many
evidences of former magnificence, in the palaces
lining the canals, and soon approached one with
a decided air of antique grandeur clinging to it.
This proved to be our hotel, and it seemed odd
enough to row up to the very vestibule, while a
carpeted plank was thrust into the boat, on
which we walked into the house. The ancient
adornments, and evident look of fallen greatness
were very striking in the various apartments,
while the carved chairs and cabinets and chests,
were enough to drive an antiquary wild. One
could not but thinuk of the fair Ginevra, and
the "old oak chest" in which she had sprung' Flattering with joy, the happiest of the happy,"
and which closed upon her forever.
Our hotel is but a short distance from the




104            THIE OLD WORLD
noble square of St. Marks, where we can walk at
our leisure, when we are tired of floating in a
gondola, which we hire as we would a carriage
elsewhere. In this warm, sunny weather, they
are covered with a striped awning, sometimes in
gay colors, which is a vast improvement on the
sombre look which law has compelled the gondolas
to wear.
We have floated under the Rialto, with its
one beautiful stone arch, where formerly the
princely merchants met to transact business.
But its original greatness is gone, and the shops
are small and mean and dirty.  Undoubtedly
Shylocks are to be found there still. We have
floated, too, beneath the Bridge of Sighs, with'a palace and a prison on each hand," for we
see the outside of things here, more than anything
else, and gliding along in this quiet way, is a
constant delight. Certainly, never was anything
more remarkable than the canals of Venicesome broad, lined with magnificent old palaces;
and others so narrow, with lofty houses on each
side, that a ray of sunshine can seldom reach
them-while the sound of wheels and horses'
hoofs is unknown. We were rowed oit to the
Island of San Lazaro to see the convent founded




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.         105
by an Armenian who bought the island long ago
for the benefit of his countrymen.
Lord Byron spent much time in study here,
where pupils are educated for various professions.
We were conducted about by a handsome young
priest, in the long, flowing black robes of the
order. He showed us the chapels, libraries,
cloisters and printing-office-also the place in
the library where Lord Byron studied; his
portrait, with the turn-down collar, and his
autograph in English  and Armenian.  The
autograph of poor Maximilian and his brokenhearted Carlotta, were also there. In the refectory there is a small pulpit where one of the
young monks reads aloud while the others are at
their meals. A cruel custom which we felt had
better be dispensed with, and a little pleasant,
cheerful conversation allowed in its stead.
There is a fine garden attached to the convent,
and a wonderful Artesian well, surmounted by a
bronze cow and calf; and near by, some real
cows, splendid looking creatures, whose milk is
sold in Venice. We were quite charmed with
everything, and felt that those were fortunate
students who found a residence on that lovely
island.  Our return to Venice was by sunset,




106             THE OLD WORLD
and we enjoyed the. luxurious indolence which
only a gondola can give-'its soft cushions and
gliding  motion putting  one into a delicious
state of dreamy repose. In the evening we went
to the square of St. Marks, where there is
always music in fine weather, and where throngs
assemble to enjoy it. All nations are represented
in the various groups seated around the little'ables, partaking of ices, and the scene is very gay
and picturesque. In the midst of it all, the
demands of the venders of small wares for the
sale of their articles, is incessant.  You are
offered bracelets, nets and necklaces of shell
work; shoes, slippers, and miniature gondolasg
made of every conceivable material, and these.
things are persistently thrust upon you, wherever
you may be.
It is difficult to believe there, that the splendor
and wealth of Venice belong to the past, for the
square itself is surrounded by objects still magnificent and perfect. The church of St. Mark, so
rich and oriental in its magnificence, the palace
of the Doges, the tall Campanile, the clock tower,
the arcades with their gay shops and cafes, the
old palaces, and the two granite columns-one
surmounted by the winged lion of St. Mark, and




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.          107
the other by the statue of a saint —all formn as
picture of wonderful beauty; a picture so unlike
anything else we have seen that we seem suddenly
to have been transported to a different clime.
Every day at two o'clock pigeons are fed in
the square, and these pigeons are so decidedly
the proteges of the city, that any person found
ill-treating them is arrested. It is believed by
some, that they fly around the city three times
every day in honor of the Trinity, and that their
presence is a protection from an incursion of the
sea. We saw them fed one day, and the moment
the clock struck two, although scarcely any were
seen a moment before, there was an imimediate
flutter of wings from  all directions, and the
pavement in front of the window from which the
food was thrown was covered with a flock of the
active little creatures. They all looked plump
and well fed, and carried themselves as if quite
conscious of their importance and safety.
The churches of Venice are among the finest
in the world; and that of St. Mark, rich as it is
in marbles and mosaics, is also rich in historical
associations, being linked with the history of
Venice for many centuries. In a chapel which is
kept securely locked, we saw some of the treasures




108            THE OLD WORLD
of St.!Mark-among them a lock of the Virgin
Mary's hair, the stones with which Stephen was
stoned to death, a piece of the true cross, and a
small scrap of the robe of Jesus. In the baptistry
we were shown the altar-table, formed of a large
granite slab, left in its natural state, brought
from  Mount Tabor, upon which our Saviour
performed the miracle of the loaves and fishes.
The stone on which John the Baptist was beheaded is also in the baptistry. In the church
of Santa Maria Gloriosa di Frari, we found monuments to Titian and Canova-both of them beautiful and elaborate - the latter having been
partially copied from a design by Canova himself,
for the Archduchess Christine, at Vienna.  The
church of Santa Maria delle, Salute, was erected
as a grateful thanksgiving by the inhabitants of
Venice, after the disappearance of the plague,
more than two hundred years ago. It is beautifully situated on the grand canal, and contains
some glorious pictures. Titian's Descent of the
Holy Ghost, and St. Mark with four other Evangelists, impressed us very much. Tintoretto's
Marriage of Cana, and some Madonnas of Sassofenato, are also there, and are very beautiful.
We have wandered through the Doge's Palace




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SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.         109
with its Giant Stairs and great gorgeous halls
and chambers, the ceilings of which are elaborately covered with pictures by Tintoretto, Titian,
and Paul Veronese. From all this magnificence
we descended into the dark dismal dungeons
beneath, where in cells not more than six or
seven feet square, with a few inches of grating,
opening into a dingy gallery, the prisoners of
state spent years of agony and despair. One
could not but look at them with horror, and as
we stood upon the Bridge of Sighs, with its
grated windows looking out upon a narrow
canal, we thought of the many who had passed
over there, leaving all hope behind, and shuddered.
We were glad to escape from  these scenes of
suffering, and enjoyed very much wandering over
the Pisani Palace, belonging to an old aristocratic Venetian family. The long suite of rooms
through which we passed looked so thoroughly
comfortable, elegant and inhabitable, that it was
charming to look upon them, and imagine pleasant family gatherings there.  Many of the
rooms were hung with rich satin damask, and
the furniture covered with the same material,
while handsome paintings, statuary, and various
objects of value, decorated the room. In one




110            THE OLD WORLD
bed-room we saw a superb counterpane of old
VTenetian lace over the blue satin covering of the
bed. Some of the sofa pillows were also covered
with this elegant lace, and we could not but
think how much sorme fine ladies would have
coveted this rare article thus lavishly thrown
about.
Our last expedition in Venice was to the top
of the Campanile, where we had a magnificent
view of the Adriatic, the distant mountains, and
Vfenice itself, securely seated on its seventy-two
islands.
Verona, June 21.:We preferred spending Sunday in this quaint
old town to remaining in Venice, which, with all
its attractions, we found very warm. So we
came here in a flash, by the cars, and drove into
the old home of the 1iontAgues and Capulets, in
a shower of rain which beat down upon us
unmercifully. But we could see, even then, as
we drove through streets of famous old palaces,
and high houses with carved stone balconies,
that it was a beautiful old town, and that its
situation on the River Adige was most delightful.
After resting and refreshing ourselves at the
Hotel, "Tower of London," the sun camne out




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.         111
most gloriously, and we drove through curious old
streets to the Amphitheatre, which is extremely
imposing, and but little smaller than the Colosseum at oome. In eleven hundred and eightyfour it was damaged by an earthquake, but is,
notwithstanding, in wonderful preservation, and
a most remarkable monument of the ancient
Romans. Every one, when here, thinks of Juliet
and her sad fate, and looks poetically upon the
gloomy and dilapidated house of the Capulets,
where poor Juliet talked to her lover from  a
balcony overlooking the garden. The house is
now used as an inn for Vetturini-the court-yard
is full of old carts and wine casks, and all the
charms of the place seem to have departed with
the "sweet saint" herself.
From  the house, we drove to the tomb of
Juliet, which we found at the end of a dreary
garden, in a building looking much like a carpenter's shop. The custodian unlocked the door
and we saw an open stone trough of rough
Verona marble, with a stone pillow within it, and
a hole at the foot for the admittance of air. It
is a remarkable fact that it should be necessary
to protect this monument carefully, in order that
travellers may not carry it away, piecemeal. I




112            THE OLD WORLD
am  afraid our guide thought us decidedly incredulous, when we gave him his fee, and went
half laughing and half scolding back through
the mud to our carriage.
There are some beautiful churches in Verona.
In that of St. Zenone, belonging to the twelfth
century, there is a statue of St. Zeno, an African
Bishop of Verona in three hundred and sixtytwo, which is of jet black marble, and the effect
is very strange. The church has some wonderful
sculptures upon the bronze doors, and carvings
in stone upon the front, which are very quaint
and curious. Near the chapel of Santa Maria
Antica in the heart of the city, are some most
remarkable old tombs of the Scaliger family,
which have stood in all their graceful beauty five
hundred years.  They are protected by a light
iron railing, and the monuments are very high
and very elaborate, the tallest one being surmounted by an equestrian statue. It has been
said that these magnificent sepulclhres are of
such "' grace and opulence, that unless a language
be invented full of lance-headed characters, and
Gothic vagaries of arch and finial, flower and
fruit, bird and beast, they can never be described."  So I shall not make the attempt. As




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.         113
there was no English service on Sunday, we went
to the cathedral, where we heard very fine music,
and feasted our eyes on Titian's Assumption of
the Virgin —a sermon in itself.
Munich, June 25.
We left Verona at a very early hour  on
Monday, for Innsbruck, by rail. After spending
weeks in a climate which we began to find somewhat exhausting, it was with a feeling of exultation that we found ourselves among the mountains,
almost immediately after leaving Verona, and in
the midst of the surpassingly grand and impressive scenery of the Tyrol.
The railroad over the Brenner Pass is a
stupendous work, and is most creditable to those
who projected and executed it. Were it not that
it is so admirably managed, one could not but
feel a sense of danger as the train, like a thing of
life, winds its way around the mountains. The
towering cliffs above, and the deep chasms beneath, inspire not only feelings of awe, but at
times, terror. It was difficult, at first, to look
out and see what was above and beneath, without a shudder; and had not our confidence in
the care and skill of those who had charge been
well assured, the expedition would have been
8




114            THE OLD WORLD
almost painful. As it was, we all enjoyed the
excitement, and when about thirty miles before
reaching Innsbruck, we were greeted with a view
of the snow-capped summits of the Tyrolese
Alps, we could not find words enough to express
our intense delight. We sprang from one side
of the car to the other, unwilling to lose any
of the glorious views that met our eyes, as we
were whirled rapidly along.
Innsbruck is most charmingly situated on the
River Inn, in the middle'of a valley whose sides
are formed by mountains covered with snow, and
which seem so near that it has been said "the
wolves prowling about the mountain-tops, look
downi into the streets."  However, we saw no
wolves, and soon after reaching there found our.
selves at the most comfortable Hotel de Autriche,
situated in a wide street, lined with shops, many
of which were beneath arcades, with dwellings
above. Having ordered a carriage, a low vehicle
containing two seats soon made its appearance,
with a horse fastened by the head, and without
traces, to one side of a huge tongue projecting
from the centre of the wagon. We thought, at
first, that the other animal had become disabled,
and that one horse was expected to do double




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.        115
duty on this occasion, but we soon learned that
this was the style Tyrolian. So we seated ourselves right merrily, and the horse started off at
a brisk pace. But the way that playful animal
managed to fly around in all directions, and still
remained attached to the carriage, was most
mysterious. Our drive was delightful, taking us
by the triumphal arch erected in honor of the visit
of Maria Theresa, and the golden roof over a bay
window upon which one of the counts of Tyrol
foolishly spent thirty thousand ducats in order to
prove that his purse was not empty. We entered
the Cathedral, in the centre of which is the splendid tomb of Maximilian I., consisting of a bronze
figure of the Emperor in a kneeling posture
upon a high marble sarcophagus, surrounded by
twenty-eight immensely tall bronze figures, representing distinguished personages, male and
female, mostly of the house of Austria. The
whole effect is very imposing, but we looked
with far greater interest upon the less pretentious monument of Andreas Hofer, who died a
martyr to his devotion to Tyrol. The monument
is surmounted by a fine statue of Hofer, dressed
in his native costume, with his rifle slung on his
shoulder, and an unfolded banner in one hand.




116            THE OLD WORLD
It is not strange that Napoleon should have
feared the noble, brave, fearless spirit who could
write, after being condemned to death by his
cruel order, " lt has been the divine will that I
should exchange here in Mantua, temporary existence for eternal life; but God be thanked for
his divine mercy, it appears as easy to me as if I
were to be led out to something else."
It is pleasant to see so many of the pretty, picturesque costumes of the Tyrol still retained,
and the men look very handsome in their embroidered waistcoats, and high-crowned, green
felt hats, decorated with feathers. The women
wear black felt hats, with a gold cord and tassel,
and bodice waists. They all look sunburnt and
brown frofi exposure in the fields, where they
work with the men, yet they have a look of contentment; and we have nowhere seen so many
wayside shrines, showing the devotional character of the people. Some of the figures of
Christ on the cross are most revolting; yet these
simple-minded people look upon them with reverence and awe, and never pass them without a
prayer. When we were on the point of leaving
our pleasant quarters at Innsbruck, our smiling
landlord gave each of his lady guests, with his




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.        117
parting bow, a lovely collection of pressed Alpine
flowers, tastefully arranged, "as a little souvenir," he said, a graceful courtesy which we all
fully appreciated.
Our trip to Munich was very pleasant during
the early part of the day, but it became uncomfortably warm in the afternoon, and when we
reached Kuffstein,,. where our passports and luggage were to be examined, we longed for something better in which to rest than the dirty
apartments at the railway station, which were
filled with men smoking and drinking beer. We
thoroughly realized at this place, that we were,
indeed, in the land of beer, for the foaming
glasses of this favorite Bavarian beverage greeted
us.on every side. Right glad were we when we
reached Munich, and we found ourselves driving
through the wide streets of a town which looked
new enough not to be continental. And very
new it is, in many respects, owing to the taste of
King Ludwig, whose great desire it was to
beautify as much as possible, and to imitate in
his own capital, whatever pleased him in other
lands.
Munich lies low on the river Iser, and is not
picturesque or commanding in position, but is a




1l8            THE OLD WORLD
very pleasant town, and wonderfully rich in
works of art. Its public library is one of the
largest in the world, and while in the Glyptothek and lPinacothek are seen most interesting
statues and pictures by the old masters, there
are modern painters and sculptors residing here
whose works are unrivalled. We have found so
much to enjoy here that we would gladly linger
a long time; but beautiful Tyrol has given us an
irresistible longing for Switzerland, with its glorious mountains and fertile valleys. So we have
rushed through the galleries, and looked hastily
at the four exquisite peasant pictures by Murillo; the one room  glowing with  Rubens'
brilliant tints; the gems of TWouvermans, Tenjers,
aud Vandyke. In the gallery of sculpture there
are many valuable antiquities. The Barberini
Faun, so called from the family to which it once
belonged, is considered one of the most remarkable of its many wonders. It was discovered in a
ditch of the Castle of St. Angelo, in Rome, and
supposed to have been thrown down upon the
Goths, who attacked the castle in 537. The figure is a colossal sleeping Satyr, reclining on a rock,
and the look of perfect repose and deep slumber
are most admirably expressed. The new Pinaco



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.          119
thek contains many excellent works by modern
painters, and we were particularly charmed with
some of Verboeckhoven's landscapes, the animals
in which seemed ready to walk out of the canvas, they were so life-like.
In the National Museum, we went through
long suites of rooms, with elaborate frescoes on
the walls, representing scenes in the history of
Bavaria. There is a very rich collection of curiosities here, mostly of German origin, composed
almost entirely of antique articles of various
kinds-old silver, china, curious jewelry, quaint
cabinets and chairs, and many other things long,
long out of use. In the palaces of the king, we
found much to interest us. The old palace which
Gustavus Adolphus admired so much that he
wished he could remove it to Stockholm  on
wheels, was finished more than two hundred
years ago by Maximilian I. It is a curious specimen of the style of architectur.e of that day, and
incloses four court-yards; in one of which is a
handsome bronze fountain, ornamented with
statues, representing Ceres, Juno, Vulcan, and
Neptune, the four elements. The fountain was
designed by the famous Peter Vischer of Nuremburg. We passed through long suites of rooms




120            THE OLD WORLD
hung with faded damask and velvet, and family
portraits, until we reached the luxurious apartments of Charles VII. One cabinet was hlmg
with pictures in enamel, many of which were
very beautiful. Napoleon once occupied these
rooms, and in his bed-room  are coverings and
curtains of a bed worked with gold, which cost
eight hundred thousand florins, and it is said
forty persons were steadily employed fifteen
years in embroidering them. In the new palace,
which was finished only thirty years ago, Tmany
decorations and frescoes are after the style of
Pompeii, and the floors are of various kinds of
wood, exquisitely inlaid in patterns, each apartment differing from  the others.  The throne
room, which is immense, contains twelve statues
in gilt bronze, ten feet high, of the Princes of the
House of Bavaria. These statues stand between
columns of Corinthian marble, and all the decorations of the room are extremely rich, white
and gold being the predominant colors. There
are two rooms which are devoted to portraits of
beautiful women who have lived, or still live, in
Munich. They were painted by order of King
Ludwig, and are thirty-six in number. Some are
very beautiful, and Lola Montez, the most won



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.         121
derful beauty of them all, once occupied a very
prominent place among them, but has been removed by the present king. How strange her
career! Followed by popular applause wherever
she went, she was at one time at the summit of
worldly prosperity. Her fascinations over the
king of Bavaria were so great that he created
her Baroness of Rosenthal, and Countess of
Landsfelt —gave her large estates with feudal
rights over a population of two thousand persons. A few years later, she was compelled to
escape in the disguise of a peasant from Munich,
and in a few years more died an humble penitent
in New York. How touching these lines from
her journal: " With what gratitude ought I to
give thanks to Him who did not forsake me, even
when walling in utter darkness and death. Oh,
how long, long was He telling me that I should
come to Him. I was indeed'weary and heavy
laden.' What has the world ever given to me?
(and I have known all that the world has to give
-all.) Nothing but shadows, leaving a wound
on the healt, hard to heal-a dark discontent.
Now I can more calmly look back on the stormy
passages of my life, an eventful life, indeed, and see
onward and upward, a haven of rest to the soul."




122            THE OLD WORLD
We have become somewhat initiated in the mysteries of bronze, at the great foundry which
sends most remarkable specimens of skill all
over the world. It was most interesting to trace
the process from its commencement to the final
completion, and we were glad to see many admirable figures which are one day to be in our
own land; among them a beautiful fountain with
fifteen figures, which will be a delight to the citizens of Cincinnati, when finished. From  the
foundry we drove to the famous colossal statue
of the Protectress of Bavaria, which is sixty-one
feet high, and stands upon a pedestal twentyeight feet high. She has a lion by her side, and
in her right hand holds a sword for protection.
Her left, which is raised, holds a chaplet to
crown Merit. The figure is admirably proportioned, and it is difficult, at first, to realize its
immense size; but when one ascends it, and finds
that the head will hold twelve persons, and furnish them seats besides, its vastness becomes very
perceptible.
The Bavarian Hall of Fame stands on a slope
a short distance back of the statue, and is a
Doric portico composed of three sides, in which
busts of many distinguished  Bavarians have




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.         123
already been placed, and there are pedestals for
many more.
We looked with much interest at the monument in St. Michael's Church to the memory of
Eugene Beauharnois, Duke of Leuchtenburg,
whose wife was a sister of the King of Bavaria.
This son of the noble Empress Josephine
stands in front of the closed door of the tomb,
with his crown and arms lying at his feet. The
attitude is simple, and full of dignity; his left
hand is pressed upon his heart, and with his
right he holds a laurel crown. Two genii, with
sad and disconsolate faces, representing Love
and Life, stand on one side, while the muse of
History is seated on the other, inscribing the
virtues and exploits of the hero. The monument
is by Thorwalsden, and is very beautiful and expressive.
We have visited some of the studios, and have
been delighted with many of the beautiful pictures which we found. Millnor's landscapes were
superb, and it was pleasant to look upon Kaulbach, whose drawings are so marvellous, and to
receive the cordial greeting which he always
gives Americans.  He was painting a lovely
group of children for a favored countryman.




124            THE OLD WORLD
We had a delightful drive through the English
garden, which is laid out with groves and shrubberies, pretty walks, graceful bridges and temples
-a most charming spot. A branch of the Iser
runs through the garden, sometimes a strong
but gentle stream, and then a torrent deep and
rapid, foaming and leaping along, and making
one realize that it is indeed the "Iser rolling
rapidly," of the poet Campbell.
We made a short visit to the curious cemetery
which is open to Protestants and Catholics alike,
and looked for a few moments into the large
room with glass doors and windows, in which,
by law, bodies are placed immediately after
death. It was touching to see the rich and poor
lying side by side, and the efforts made to decorate them, and give a look of life, when life was
gone forever. One beautiful little child was
lying underneath an arbor of green vines,'with a
profusion of flowers scattered about her, and as
she lay gracefully on her side, apparently asleep
after her play, it was difficult to believe that
those eyes would never open again. A string is
placed in the hand of each silent sleeper, to
which is attached a bell, which rings at the
slightest motion. A wise precaution to prevent




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.         125
premature interment; and in one or two instances
of suspended animation, the bell has  been
sounded. In case of an epidemic, when early interment is deemed necessary, a house of this
kind must be invaluable; and it is strange that
other cities do not consider it desirable to have
such a safeguard. The grounds of the cemetery
are prettily laid out, and well kept, and everything seemed to denote a desire to bring all the
cheerfulness possible to this last resting-place of
the loved and lost.
Zurich, June 28.
We are at last in Switzerland, having come to
Zurich by way of Augsburg and Lake Constance. -
The first hundred miles of our way was through
an exceedingly fiat country; but as we approached Lindau it became more hilly, and
everything assumed a Swiss appearance, perceptible in the houses and costumes of the people,
as well as in the scenery. At Lindau, a strongly
fortified town, we took a steamer on Lake Constance, and bade a final adieu to Bavaria, which
was represented at the harbor by a monstrous
stone lion in a sitting posture, with a not very
almiable expression of countenance. We found
the scenery on Lake Constance pretty and pic



126            THE OLD WORLD
turesque, but without wildness or grandeur.
From Romanshorn, where we took the train, our
journey was through a well-cultivated country,
everything indicating a thrifty, prosperous people.
We drove to the Baur au Lac Hotel, and
found it charmingly situated. The views of the
green hills surrounding it, on which villages and
villas sparkled in the sun, and the more distant
snow-capped mountains, were very fine.  In
front of the house, a beautiful garden, cool and
shady, borders on the lake. We felt that after
the last fatiguing days, we had, indeed, found a
haven of delicious rest. So we have quietly enjoyed the lovely lake, and have only ventured
out, now and then, to take a peep about us. We
looked into the heavy and massive, but plain and
unadorned cathedral, in which the bold and fearless Zuingle denounced the errors of the Church
of Rome. In the Arsenal we also saw the sword,
helmet, and coat of mail, in which, when it was
necessary, he could fight with other weapons
than his tongue in defence of Protestantism.
We also saw at the same place the cross-bow
with which William Tell shot the apple from his
son's head; but we looked at it with only a
small amount of faith.




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.         127
Zurich boasts of being the birth-place- of many
famous men, among them, Lavater the physiognomist, Pestalozzi, the teacher, and the two
Gesners, one a celebrated naturalist, and the
other a poet-painter.  We have greatly enjoyed
our little strolls about the curious old town~ and
they would have been still more enjoyable and
comfortable, had the pavements been composed of anything but small, sharp-pointed
stones. But there are few sidewalks, and we
were obliged to hobble on as we best could.
Why such stones were selected, we could not
divine.
We have not in a long time passed so quiet
a Sunday, and the pretty English Chapel was
quite thronged with worshippers.  The streets
seemed deserted as we made our way to it, and
it was with difficulty that we could find any one
to direct us. Late in the afternoon we sat at the
foot of the garden, enjoying the beauty of the
scene-the lake so blue and sparkling, the shores
richly wooded, and looking brilliantly green by
the light of the setting sun. Suddenly, the snowy
peaks of the Alps became tinged with a rosy
light, which seemed to throw an illumination
over the whole, and the effect was gloriously




128            THE OLD WORLD
beautiful. We lingered until "'twas gone, and
all was gray," feeling as if we had taken a peep
into another world than ours.
Iuecerne, June 30.
A delightful ride of two hours by railroad
brought us here, passing through a beautiful
country, and by the margin of Lake Zug. Our
rooms at the Schweizerhof look out upon this
loveliest of Swiss lakes, while Mount Pilatus
rises high and imposing on one side, and the
Righi, with its rich and grassy slopes, keeps
watch on the other. We could not rest here
long without a visit to the famous sculptured
lion, dedicated to the memory of the officers and
soldiers of the Swiss guards, about eight hundred in all, who were killed in defending the
Tuilleries, and poor Louis XVI., and Marie Antoinette, in 1792. It is all the more remarkable
as a work of art, from  the fact that it is cut out
of the face of a solid sandstone rock. The dying
lion is represented lying in a grotto, a spear in
his side, and his paw grasping the fleur de lis of
France. It is wonderfully touching and impressive, and worthy the great genius of Thorwalsden,
who designed it. One can scarcely believe, in
looking at it, that it is twenty-eight feet long,




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SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.        129
and eighteen feet high, yet such is the fact.
The surroundings of the monument are extremely
pretty, there being at the base of the rock a
pool of pure water, creeping vines hanging from
the top, while the pool is surrounded by maples,
pines, and other forest trees.
We had a delightful expedition to Fluelen, at
the head of Lake Lucerne, and were quite enchanted with the beautiful scenery. The lake is
shaped somewhat like an irregular star, and as
we proceeded, new scenes continually burst upon
us. When we seemed to have reached an impassable barrier, a sudden turn, where the mountains and rocks came to the water's edge, would
reveal some new picture of exquisite beauty, and
wherever we turned, snow-capped mountains
were visible. We looked with much interest at
Tell's Chapel, erected on the spot where the gallant Swiss leaped from Gesler's boat when he
was conveying him to prison. The Chapel is
almost hidden by trees, and most romantically
situated. On Sunday after Ascension-day, mass
is performed there, a patriotic sermon preached,
and the lake is gay with richly-decorated boats
and flying banners. It is said to be eight hundred feet deep near the chapel. On reaching
9




130            THE OLD WORLD
Fluelen, we found the steamboat remained long
enough to admit of our driving to Altorf, the
scene of Tell's exploit with the apple. So we
soon found ourselves looking about the curious
old town, which is in the smallest and poorest
canton of Switzerland, surrounded by grand
mountains which towered high, high above us,
and seemed to pierce the clouds. We found the
colossal statue in plaster, erected in honor of
William Tell, occupying the place from which the
archer aimed at the apple on his son's head.
About one hundred and fifty paces is the spot
where the son stood, awaiting in agonizing suspense the arrow of his father-an arrow which
brought about such great results. As we returned,
Lucerne looked beautifully, rising gradually from
the lake, its.picturesque watch-towers, quaint
old bridges, long walls enclosing the town, and
Pilatus and Righi glowing in the evening sun.
"Interlachern! How peacefully by the margin
of the swift rushing Aar thou liest on the broad
lap of those romantic meadows, all overshadowed
by the wide arms of giant trees! Only the round
towers of thine ancient cloister rise above their
summits; the round towers themselves but a
child's playthings under the great church towers




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SEEN WITH YOUNG EYMS.         131
of the mountains. Close beside thee are lakes
which the flowing band of the river ties together.
Before thee opens the magnificent valley of Lauterbrunnen, where the cloud-hooded Monck and
pale Virgin stand like St. Francis and his bride
of snow; and around thee are fields, and orchards, and hamlets green, from  which  the
church-bells answer each other at evening. The
evening sun was setting when I first beheld thee.
The sun of life will set ere I forget thee!"
How constantly has this beautiful description
of Longfellow occurred to us during the last fortnight! At Lucerne we joined a party of dear
friends, and our journey here by carriages was
most charming. The first part of the way we
passed by the margin of one of the arms of Lake
Lnucerne-then came Alpnach Lake, a little gem
of beauty —then Lake Lungrn, and Lake Brienz,
surrounded by lofty wooded mountains and rocks.
Over the Brunig Pass, the scenery was very
grand. Bald peaks and snow-clad pyramids
formed a background-cascades leaped hundreds
of feet from precipices, while the fertile valley of
Meiringen, far, far below us, with the houses
looking like mere dots in the distance, presented
a picture of beauty not easily surpassed. From




132            THE OLD WORLD
one carriage to the other we continually interchanged expressions of delight, and the words of
the Psalmist constantly occurred to me: "lMy
cup runneth over." When we reached Interlachen
we found ourselves quite exhausted, and were
glad to rest at the Hotel Belvidere, which we
have found all we can desire.
Directly before us lies the beautiful and
majestic J-ungfrau, more than twelve thousand
feet high, covered with snow, while all about
are other lofty mountains, their fresh green
verdure, and rocky palisades contrasting most
beautifully with the pure white garment of the
lovely "young woman."  Like a very modest
damsel, she keeps her veil of mist over her face
much of the time, so that when she chooses to
lift it her beauty is all the more startling. When
she stands forth glittering in the sunlight she
seems almost unearthly in her dazzling brightness. Our stay at Interlachen has been diversified
by various excursions, while the magnificent
scenery by which it is surrounded, makes it a
most desirable resting-place when we are disposed for quiet. The Fourth of July was, indeed,
a day of rest and quiet, but we were somewhat
startled in the evening to hear an explosion of




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.         133
fire-crackers on the lawn in front of the house.
Some enthusiastic American had been unable to
restrain his "gunpowder patriotism," and had
thus given vent to his enthusiasm  under the
shadow of the Jungfrau.
The shops here are more tempting than we
have found them at any other place in Switzerland.  The display of wood-carvings is quite
wonderful, and the onyx, amethyst, and crystal
ornaments, really bewildering. One longs for a
full purse, under such temptations as are set
before us. We drove, one day, past the castle of
Iunspunnen, the reputed residence of Lord
Byron's Manfred, through the beautiful valley of
Lauterbrunnen, which derives its name, nothing
but fountains, from  the number of streamlets
which precipitate themselves from the cliffs into
the valley below. One of the highest waterfalls
in Europe, the Staubbach, or dust stream, comes
dancing down a height of more than eight'hundred feet, and seems indeed " a heaven-born
waterfall," for as one looks up at it, it appears to
le-ap from the sky. The body of water is never
very great, and by the time it reaches the bottom
of the cliff it becomes spray, and is scattered by
the breeze. When the sun falls full upon it,




134             THE OLD WORLD
" It veils the rock
In rainbow hues,"
and the effect is very beautiful.  At Lauterbrunnen we took horses, and ascended the Murren by
a bridle path, and the views the greater part of
the way were most glorious-almost fearfully
grand, at times.  We were surrounded by an
amphitheatre  of  snow-clad  mountains  and
glaciers, and rugged precipices.  The Eiger, the
Monck, the Jungfrau, the Wetterhom, and other
mountain peaks, all being in view-with eight or
ten glaciers.  During our ascent, we heard the
roar, like thunder, of distant avalanches.
"All in a mtoment, crash on crash,
From precipice, to precipice,
An avalanche's ruins dash
Down to the nethermost abyss,
Invisible; the ear alone
Pursues the uproar till it dies;
Echo to echo, groan for groan
From deep to deep replies."
The noise is all the more startling from  the
intense silence which generally prevails in these
high mountain regions, and one could not but
think of the  desolation  and  ruin  such vast
bodies of snow and ice might occasion should
there be houses or villages in its course. At
Mlurren we looked with sad interest at the spot




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.         135
near us on the mountain, where the lovely young
English bride was struck by lightning a few years
ago. A cross to her memory has been erected
there since, and a memorial chapel in her English
home, where her sad fate was so deeply and
lovingly lamented. The descent of the mountain seemed so much more formidable than the
going up, that we abandoned our horses and
went scampering down on foot-a feat from
which some of us did not soon recover, not being
accustomed to such mountaineer exploits. The
next day we went to Grindelwald, which is
celebrated for the grand mountains surrounding
it, and the two glaciers which descend directly
into the valley, in the midst of vegetation. These
glaciers are bordered by fir trees, which form a
beautiful contrast to the frozen peaks of ice so
near them.  We entered a cavern cut into the
glacier through the solid ice for many feet, and
admired the exquisite blue of the cold material
very much, but we found the atmosphere too
chilly to remain long. Had we known that it
was, even then, preparing to fall in, as it did, not
long after, we should probably have retreated
still more precipitately. At Grindelwald several
of our party ascended the Faulhorn, from which




136            THE OLD WORLD
some of the finest views in Switzerland are
obtained, provided the weather is clear, which it
seldom is. From the hasty journal of one of their
number, I make a few extracts:
" All things being ready, we started off on our
well-trained horses, and with our experienced and
faithful guides, to make the ascent. It was a pleasant afternoon, and for two hours or more our path
was through meadows and pastures, filled with
an almost infinite variety of flowers of every hue
and color. Nothing could be more beautiful. It
was like a fairy-land, and kept us in a constant
state of excitement. As we ascended higher and
higher, the flowers began to disappear, and it was
not long before we were in a region of perfect
desolation-nothing but rocks and snow.  We
began to make free use of our shawls and overcoats, and yet we could not protect ourselves
from the piercing cold. Our horses had to pick
their way through the deep drifts of snow, as
they could, and the dear, good creatures did
behave splendidly. They were as careful as it
was possible for a human being to be. Indeed,
at times, when we were in despair, they seemed
to feel their responsibility, and by dint of extraordinary efforts carried us safely through. At




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.        137
length, after some five or six hours of hard
climbing, we reached the summit of the mountain, nearly nine thousand feet high!
"In all the valleys the sunlight had disappeared;
but where we were, the sunshine continued for
nearly an hour longer. Though bitterly cold, we
stood, and gazed, and wondered, at the glorious
views which presented themselves in every direction. We spent the night in a kind of house which
has been erected there. I cannot say we had many
luxuries, but we managed to get through the
night comfortably. I found myself too high up
in the world to sleep, and so amused myself by
looking out of the window to see what the
prospect was. In due time, the moon arose, and
the mists having disappeared, there was a fine
view of the mountains. At half-past three o'clock
we were called to see the sun rise. And what a
sight! Not a speck of cloud or mist rested on
the mountains. By slow degrees the sun came
up, and as its rays lighted up one peak after
another, the beauty and splendor of the scene
became indescribable. There we stood and gazed,
in silent wonder, upon this marvellous display of
the great Creator's power and glory. The whole
Oberland range, as well as innumerable other




138            THE OLD WORLD
peaks, were in full view. It was a.sight for a
life time. I could only exclaimn,'Glory, Glory
Hallelujah.'  Nobody who has not experienced
it, can have the least idea of the feelings which
such a sight awakens. I don't think any of us
will ever forget that visit. I am sure I shall not.
It seemed as though I was never so near God
before.
"After breakfast we commenced our descent.
Our guides led the horses, and we raced and
chased each other over the snow at a great rate;
it was nearly as hard as the rocks themselves.
In a few hours we were down again among the
flowers and green grass, and were glad enough to
get off all our extra clothing, for we found it very
warm. The whole distance to the top of the
Great Scheideck we had a full view of the mountains. There we took the usual route to the
REteichenbach Falls, opposite Meiringen, feeling
that we had seen what we never had conceived
of, in the way of the awful grandeur and glory of
mountain scenery. In some of the very narrow
passes we found men with long wooden horns,
called Alpine horns.  These they would blow
with all their might. The sound produced
was loud and rather pleasant, but- the echoes




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.         139
were truly beautiful. At first they were full and
near, but by degrees they became fainter and
fainter, and all the time receded, until they died
away and were finally lost in the far-off distance.
It seemed like something unearthly, and made
one think of the notes of the celestial world. I
was always glad to hear the sound of the Alpine
horn. But sometimes, instead of a horn, these
men would have a small cannon which they
would fire off, making a most fearful and deafening roar.  Immediately it seemed as though
the mountains on both sides were filled with
cannons, great and small, all blazing away at
each other. From top to bottom, there was
nothing but bang, whang, and roar! The effect
of it all was, the ladies screeched, the dogs
barked, the gentlemen laughed, the mules stuck
up their ears, and the men politely asked for
some money to pay them for their trouble. The
people here are just like the people everywhere
else; whatever they do, they do for money, and
the traveller had better always have his pocket
full of change. When making our way out of
one of these passes we became very much interested in the conduct of a little dog. He had
been with us since we left Grindelwald, and




140            THE OLD WORLD
every one had become very much attached to
him; for he was a beautiful creature and as
bright and lively as he could be.
"Our party was a large one, and strung along
Indian file for a long distance. All of a sudden
the dog became very nervous and went rushing
about at a great rate. At one time, he dashed
ahead, and then back he would come as hard
as he could run. He seemed fearfully anxious,
as though some great mischief were about to
happen. We went on wondering what it all
could mean, but soon the mystery was solved.
We were approaching a place where they were
accustomed to fire one of these cannons. The
dog had been there before, and the noise of the
cannon had scared him nearly out of his wits.
True, he was a great deal more scared than hurt;
yet like the rest of the world, he thought he was
hurt, and that was enough. He remembered all
about it and was exceedingly fidgety. But he
behaved beautifully. Instead of running away,
as we should have done, he didn't leave us for a
moment. When we came to the cannon, for
some reason it wasn't fired off; but the dog
thought it would be, and he was unceasing in
his efforts to hurry us past the place. He ran




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.         141
ahead, gave short, sharp  barks, nipped the
horse's heels, flew about the guides, and made a
fuss generally. As soon as those in front were
fairly by, he took the next, and so on to the last.
I happened to be in the rear, and such an excitement as he was in, I never saw before. He
did' everything in his power to hasten me on.
After some of his prodigious efforts, he would
look me full in the face, as much as to say'Old man, why don't you hurry?  Don't you
know there will soon be a great noise, and you
will be hurt?  Do come on.' Well, I did go on,
and was soon past the cannon, and as the dog
thought, out of all danger.  Immediately, he
became calm and trotted along in his usual way.
I could not but think that this little dog had set
us a noble example, and taught us a most useful
lesson.  If we should be as devoted to our
friends, and every good work, as he was to us,
how much good we should do!"
Geneva, July 20.
It dawned upon us one day that we could not
remain in lovely Interlacken forever, so we took
our last look at the peerless Jungfrau and went
to Berne by way of beautiful Lake Thun, which
is wild and picturesque part of the way, with




142            THE OLD WORLD
views of distant snow-clad mountains, and near
Thun, adorned with pretty villas and cheerful
gardens., The ruins of an old castle with ivy
covered walls, added not a little to the charm of
the landscape.
We found Berne a most curious, quaint old
place, very unlike anything else we have seen,
and very pleasantly situated on the River Aar,
which surrounds it on three sides. Most of the
houses project over the sidewalks, forming an
arcade in which are shops of various kinds.
Everywhere one sees bears, either in wood, or
stone, or iron, to commemorate the exploit of
the founder of the town, who killed a huge bear
which attacked him  when he had commenced
erecting the walls. Since then, the bear has
been painted on their flags and stamped on their
coins, and the town itself has been called Berne,
which in the old German, means bear. Live
bears are kept at the public expense in large pits
surrounded by strong iron railings, and here
crowds assemble to give them bread and fruit,
and watch their gambols.
We were very much amused with two young
bears wvhich had all the antics of two playful
kittens, without their grace; tumbling about,




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.         143
standing erect, with their h]uge paws extendedclimbing poles and falling on their backs with a
force which seemed sufficient to crush them.
Then rising and rushing into each other's arms
again, and again tumbling over at full length.
The whole scene was all the more ludicrous because the creatures had all tile air of showing off
for the pleasure of the spectators. The bridge
over which we passed to the bears' den is a
splendid structure of solid stone, with three
irhmense arches. As we stood upon it, we discovered that one of the streets of the town was
beneath us, and the bridge much higher than the
tops of the houses.
We found much to interest us in the museum,
which contains choice specimens of the natural
productions of Switzerland in the way of birds,
rare minerals, and stuffed animals. The hero
among the latter, is the famous St. Gothard dog
Barry, which is said to have saved the lives of
forty human beings, by his sagacity and strength.
He looked very life-like, standing with bottle and
collar about his neck, as if about to start on his
mission of mercy, and we felt that he deserved
all the fame he has received. The cathedral at
Berne was finished more than four hundred




144            THE OLD WORLD
years ago, and is a fine Gothic building, with a
curious carving over the principal door, representing the Last Judgment, with figures of the
wise and foolish virgins on each side. The choir
contains some curious stained-glass windows, in
some of which are caricatures of the Romish
priesthood. There are also richly carved stalls,
heraldic  emblems, and  a monument to the
founder of Berne, Berthold Von  Zahringen.
There are numerous fountains in Berne adorned
with statues, and we found one in our rambles
which was enough to strike terror in any juvenile
heart. A huge Ogre is represented devouring a
child, while several others are waiting their doom,
stuck in his pocket and girdle. A troop of
armed bears stands beneath, so that the escape
of the little innocents is impossible. Altogether,
the effect was decidedly impressive, and we wondered if the Bernese mammas were in the habit
of teaching valuable lessons to their children by
means of this monster.
Near the Ogre fountain stands the clock tower,
where at three minutes before every hour a
wooden cock crows twice and flaps his wings. A
minute later a procession of bears walks around
the seated figure of an old man with a beard, who




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.         145
turns an hour glass, and counts the hours by
raising his sceptre and opening his mouth. In
the mean time, a grotesque figure strikes the
hour on a bell with a hammer, the bear at the
right of the figure bows his head, and the cock
finishes the performance with a third crow. All
the figures are mere puppets, and the whole
thing is very absurd, although displaying much
skill. We visited with great interest the beautiful Federal Council Hall, a large building in
palatial style, where the assembly hold their
sessions. We were shown the different chambers
and committee rooms, and were much delighted
with the elegant simplicity prevailing everywhere.
The debates are'in the German, French and
Italian languages, and often the discussions are
quite as animated if not so stormy, as in our own
House of Representatives. From the balcony in
the rear of the building, we had a lovely view of
Berne and its surroundings, the river Aar which
flows at the bottom of a deep gully below, and
the Bernese Alps in the distance.
After a night's rest in Berne, we made an early
morning investigation of the curious booths
which had sprung up in the night, in the principal street-it being market day-and we were
10




146            TEHE OLD WORLD
quite amused with the collection of articles,
mostly for household purposes, thus brought
together.  The women in their white linen
sleeves, embroidered bodices, silver chains and
ornaments, looked very picturesque.  An hour's
ride in the cars brought us in sight of the ancient
watch-towers, battlements and winding-walls of
Freyburg, which is romantically situated on
the river Saarine. The remarkable suspension
bridges, one of them nearly three hundred feet
above the rocky ravine below-the other at nearly
the same height, and both almost a thousand
feet in length, are objects of great beauty. They
look so light, graceful and fragile, that at first it
seems as if a breeze might blow them over; but
when one looks at the wires, and chains, and the
rocks to which they are fastened, their wonderful
strength becomes manifest. The views up and
down the river, of the valley and the town itself,
were beautiful as we walked over the bridges,
which, hanging as they do in the air, trembled
with the lightest weight. We remained in Freyburg a few hours in order to hear one of the
finest organs in Europe, which at certain times
in the day an organist is allowed to play upon
for the gratification of travellers. Its tones are




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.         147
rich and full, and at times the muscl seemed
almost unearthly in its delicious sweetness.
rhen at last the imitation of a storm commenced,
and the wind howled and the thunder rolled,
seeming to shake the old church, which had stood
for centuries, to its very foundations, we were all
filled with silent awe, and sat breathless with
amazement and wonder. The hour passed in
that quaint old church of St. Nicholas, with its
curious carved stalls, stone floors and most
wonderfHl organ, will not soon be forgotten.
With the notes still ringing in our ears, we left
for Geneva, and just before reaching Lausanne,
obtained our first glimpse of "clear, placid
Leman" with its surrounding mountains, and
pretty villages on the bank of the lake. These
lovely views greeted us at intervals for many
miles, and at length we found ourselves at a
pleasant hotel close by the exquisitely blue
waters of the IRhone at Geneva, our windows
looking out upon Mount Blanc, the "monarch of
mountains," in the distance.
We have found this beautifully situated town
most attractive, and the drives in the neighborhood very pleasant. There are so many narrow
shady lanes, hedges, grand old trees, and villas




148            THE OLD WORLD
looking like English country houses, that we
seemed almost to have been taken across the
Channel again. We drove to Ferney, five miles
from Geneva, which was for twenty years the
residence of Voltaire. His chateau is beautifully
situated, in full view of the lake and of Mont
Blanc; and there is a long, lovely walk in the
garden, formed by vines and trees growing over
arches, so thickly covered, that the prospect can
be seen only through gaps cut at regular intervals in the form of windows. In this secluded,
and yet beautiful spot, Voltaire used to walk up
and down, and dictate to his secretary. Two
rooms in the chateau are left by the present
proprietor as they were originally. They contain
pictures, a couch, and a curious monument of
earthenware, looking very much like a German
stove, is placed on one side of the vestibule. The
monument was designed to hold the heart of
Voltaire, and bears this  inscription: "Mes
manes sont consoles puisque mon coeur est au
milieu de vous." At the entrance to the grounds
there is a small dilapidated stone church with
the original inscription, "Deo erexit Voltaire."
The building looks now very much as if it were
used as a place of deposit for hay and stubble.




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.         149
Ferney improved very much during Voltaire's
residence there. He collected industrious colonists, introduced useful manufactures, and was
quite the "patriarch" of the town. He drove
out every day in a gilt coach drawn by four
horses, and was always addressed by the people
as " Monseigneur." It has been said of him by a
French author that "there is not, in the literature
of any country, either in verse or in prose, an
author who has written on so many opposite
kinds of subjects, and has so constantly displayed
a superiority in them  all." How unfortunate
that his influence was not always for the best!
Voltaire used to say, in reference to this smallest
canton in Switzerland, "When I shake my wig, I
powder all the republic;" yet the whole world has
felt the power of Geneva. From  John Calvin
the reformer, who hurled defiance at the Church
of Rome, and denounced everything in the way
of extravagance and dissipation, emanated the
doctrines of our own Pilgrim Fathers. He may
have been rigorous and severe, but he has made
the whole world think. During his administration, John Knox was exiled from  Great Britain,
while "Bloody Mary" was on the throne, and
resided in Geneva some years. What consulta



150            THE OLD WORLD
tions these most remarkable men must have held
together, and how little they suspected that
remote posterity would feel their power!
The public library, founded by Calvin, contains
over forty thousand volumes, and many valuable
manuscripts and letters-among them  a letter
addressed by Calvin to Lady Jane Grey, while
she was a prisoner in the Tower of London.
There are forty-four volumes of his manuscript
sermons, and twelve volumes of letters addressed
to him. There are letters also of Jean Jaques
Rousseau, which are quite different in their
character.  The situation of Geneva, at the
southern extremity of Lake Geneva, and on both
banks of the Rhone, is very beautiful; while the
tall, handsome houses, of modern date, give a
look of enterprise and thrift to the town. It is
still divided into an upper and lower town, and
the rank and condition of the inhabitants are
perpetuated in these two divisions; the aristocracy residing in the upper town and occupying
handsome mansions, while workmen and poorer
shopkeepers remain in the lower town.  It is
rather amusing, however, that the industrial
classes have the burgher aristocracy very much
in their power, for in case of feuds, which some



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.        151
times occur, they bring their exalted neighbors
to reason, by cutting off their supply of waterthe hydraulic machine, which furnishes water to
the upper town, being in their quarter. As there
are over three thousand persons employed in the
manufacture of watches alone, while other
articles of ornamental jewelry require many more,
the number of workmen is, of course, very large.
It was quite a study to look upon the various
and beautiful designs of the ornaments, and see
the artistic skill displayed in their arrangement.
We never tire of walking upon the handsome
long bridges which connect the two parts of the
town, with the pretty Rousseau Island in the
centre. The swans which swim gracefully about
the island, are an attractive feature of the scene,
while the intensely blue color of the waters of
the swift rushing Rhone, is a constant theme of
wonder and admiration. It is curious to see the
hosts of washerwomen who occupy boats fastened
to the bank of the river. These boats are about
a hundred feet long, and extend for nearly a
mile. They are generally filled with women, who
stand side by side, rubbing the clothes with their
strong arms, and keeping up a chatter which is
quite deafening.




152             THE OLD WORLD
We made an excursion of a few days to
Chamouny, from Geneva, and the drive there of
ten  hours was very  delightful.'  We passed
through several pleasant little towns, and the
whole distance is diversified with the most
interesting sights. Sometimes we were on the
borders of the plunging Arve, beneath grand
Alpine precipices-then  there were frightful
chasms, and beautiful waterfalls. One of these,
called the Arpenaz, reminded us of the Staubbach,
and is one of the highest waterfalls in Savoy.
The stream is so small that it is broken into
spray long before it reaches its first descent, yet
it is extremely graceful, and after being nearly
dispersed, it again collects, rushes across the road
beneath a bridge, and flows into the Arve. The
effect of the lost waterfall again assuming form, is
very curious and beautiful. The rock of brown
limestone from which it falls is very remarkable,
its stratification forming a vast curve, which is
very perceptible as the face of the rock is uncovered. It looks like an amphitheatre of mason
work.
The valley becomes wider, after leaving the
fall of Arpenaz, and some rich and fertile fields
are seen at the base of lofty peaks, above the




v-\ —~   ~ ~~ —--    T-i-u —- -~ —--    ----— 1
alil'i  ~"
C,'             \\     \_                       _     _     _     _     _     _        _
E_                                               _      _      _       _
CHAMOUNY.








SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.          153
village of St. Martin. We drove into a bustling
inn-yard there, but could not rest until we had
looked for the magnificent view of Mont Blanc
from the graceful one-arched bridge over the
Arve. The mountain, although  twelve miles
distant in a straight line, seems very near, the
intervening space being annihilated by its vast
dimensions.  So we were told, for alas! for us, a
sudden shower came on, and no mountain was
visible to our longing eyes. So we consoled
ourselves as we best could, with some of the
delicious sponge cake and d'Asti wine, for which
the inn is deservedly famous. Fortunately the
storm was of short duration, and the rest of the
way to the beautiful valley of Chamouny, we had
views that were grand beyond all description, of
the loftiest mountain in Europe, with its attendant
throng of ridges of aiguilles, and glaciers filling
the intervals. As this is a route much frequented
by strangers, we found ourselves at all times and
places beset by beggars, who made a speculation of their deformities, or insisted on selling
mineral specimens, or dealt in echoes by firing
a small cannon wherever its reverberations could
be heard several times. It is not always agreeable to have one's view of a charming prospect




154             THE OLD WORLD
intercepted by a goitre, and we considered these
poor wretches a great nuisance. Late in the
afternoon, we found ourselves beneath the shadow
of MIont Blanc, and a glorious sunset illuminating the whole range, left us nothing to desire.
The next morning we walked upon the "Mer
de Glace," which fully realized the beautiful description of Coleridge, and seemed, indeed, like' torrents that heard a mighty voice
And stopped at once, amid their maddest plunge."
The beautiful blue color of the ice, and its great
purity, can only be seen by looking down into
the crevices, which are so frightfully deep that
one cannot but shudder at the thought of a misstep in climbing over their icy billows.
It is said that an Alpine hunter, some years
ago, in passing over the Mer de Glace, lost his
hold and slipped into one of these fearful crevices.
By catching himself in his swift descent against
the points of rocks and projecting ice, his fall was
so broken that he reached the bottom  alive.
But what a prison was he in! On either hand,
the icy walls rose up to heaven, above which he
saw only a strip of blue sky. A little stream of
water at his feet, formed by the slowly melting




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.          155
glacier, suggested to him the idea that in following it, he might find some outlet. He picked
his way, in terror, down, down the mountain
side, till his course was stopped by an immense
cliff that rose up before him, while the river
rolled darkly below.  There was no time for
delay. Death was before him in either case, and
pausing only an instant, he plunged into the
stream. One minute of breathless suspense-a
sense of darkness, coldness, and swift gliding
motion, and then a light began to glimmer on
the waters. The next instant he was amid
the green fields, and the flowers, and the summer sunshine of the Vale of Chamouny. As we
looked at the source of the Arveiron, rushing
from beneath a lofty arch of ice at the foot of
this glacier, we could not but think of this fortunate escape-so different from the fate of most
Alpine climbers who have the misfortune to
make a false step in slippery places.
The scenery where the Arveiron begins to
"Crave ceaselessly" is very grand. The deep
blackness of the vault of ice contrasted with the
beautiful blue where the light is transmitted
through the ice, is very striking.  Enormous
rocks are piled up which have been brought




156            THE OLD WORLD
down by the glacier from the mountains above,
and are deposited in the bed of the river. Sometimes it is very dangerous to venture too near,
lest one should be crushed by the falling stones.
Yet every year there are accidents resulting
from careless exposure of life, and a too eager
desire to penetrate forbidden places. The foolhardiness seems all the more strange, when there
is so much to be safely seen, which will give one
memories that will be a life-long delight.
Vevay, July 31.
We have spent nearly a fortnight in this
picturesque spot, with its swelling hills and vineclad slopes in the background, and beautiful
Lake Leman with its snow-crowned mountains
lying before us. The Grand Hotel, so thoroughly
comfortable and elegant, has been indeed a
"haven of rest" to us, and the quiet days passed
here, looking out upon most beautiful, and at
the same time most sublime scenes, cannot soon
be forgotten.
Our enjoyment of the "holy quiet of Nature"
has been perfect, and day after day have we sat
by the lake shore, drinking in the exquisite beauty
of the scene. ~We were shocked and saddened




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.        157
one day, however, when we saw a sail-boat
capsize just before us, in which was a young
Greek gentleman, who had won all hearts by his
kindly manners, and who had just parted with
his friends, in gay spirits, for a short sail upon
the lake.  Before help could be obtained, he
sank, and we were forcibly reminded that "in
the midst of life, we are in death."  It seemed
the work of seconds only, and the groups gathered upon the lawn, grew silent and sad, and
only spoke in whispers, where so short a time before, all was gayety and merriment. Our hearts
ached for the mother in her far away Greek
home, who thus lost her only child, and whose
husband some years before had been drowned in
the Adriatic.
One pleasant day we took the steamer to Yilleneuve, at the head of the lake, and on our return
stopped at the renowned castle of Chillon, which
stands firmly upon an isolated rock within a
stone's throw of the shore, and yet is surrounded
by deep water. It is approached by a wooden
bridge, which is firm now, but was formerly a
drawbridge, thus making the castle inaccessible.
Its gray walls have stood firmly more than six
hundred years, and during that time, what scenes




158            THE OLD WORLD
have been transacted within these walls! Its
crypts once served as a place of confinement for
persecuted Christians, and afterwards for prisoners of state. On a block of marble in one of
the dungeons, tradition says two thousand Jews
were beheaded, partly on account of their religion,
and that the nobles might secure their gold.
Near this place is a deep arch in the wall which
once contained an image of the Virgin, before
which the condemned were allowed to pray before
they were hung upon a huge beam near by. Then
there was the Chambre des Oubliettes, where in
lawless times, prisoners of state were dragged
without trial, and made to kneel upon a trap
door, before the image which Catholics so much
revere and love. While thus asking for mercy,
the trap door fell at a given signal, and the poor
wretch was dashed in pieces, far, far below. One
could not but shrink and shudder in looking
into the fearful abyss. But the place of deepest
interest was the dungeon in which the Swiss
patriot Bonnivard was kept for six years chained
to one of the low pillars which support the roofone of the "seven columns massy and gray" of
which Lord Byron speaks, and in which he has
inscribed his name in large letters. Several of the




SEEN WITH YOUNGa EYES.           159
colhmns have iron rings in them, and near the
one to which Bonnivard was fastened, and where
the length of the chain only allowed him  to walk
a few feet,
"'twas trod
Until his very steps have left a trace
Worn, as if the cold pavement were a sod."
The dungeon is on a level with the lake, and
the rippling of the water is distinctly heard,
while through the narrow loop-holes which admitted the light, we could see
" the small green isle
Which in his very face did smile,"
with its three tall trees. After the Genevese
were released from the Savoyard yoke, the castle
was besieged by seven thousand Bernese, and the
prison doors opened. The words "Bonnivard,
thou art free," must have sounded like music in
ears so long unaccustomed to any voice but that
of his jailor. Those six years had made Geneva
protestant and independent, and Bonnivard was
rewarded for his years of misery and suffering, in
the affection and trust bestowed upon him during
the rest of his life. In sixteen hundred and
forty-three, a little more than one hundred years
after this event, there was inscribed over the
governor's entrance, the words, "May God bless




160            THE OLD WORLD
all who come in and go out." A pious wish, which
a few centuries before would hardly have been
allowed. But as the castle is now used only as a
magazine for military stores, its scenes of cruelty
are over.
The state chambers of the Duke and Duchess
of Savoy were shown us, and were very curious
specimens of the taste of those times. The
wooden ceilings are very much carved, and there
are some attempts at ornament upon the walls
and windows. A very large audience-chamber,
with an immense fireplace, has the various coats
of arms of different Swiss cantons painted upon
the wall; each governor, while the Bernese had
control, having added his own arms, name and
inscription. It was pleasant to see that all had
not been desolation and misery within these
walls, and as we approached the bridge to leave,
we were most happy to accept the invitation of
an old soldier into his tidy apartment which he
seemed proud to show us, while he enlarged upon
his comfort as custodian there. Chillon, with its
round towers, massive walls, moat and drawbridge, and charming situation, is a most picturesque and beautiful specimen of one of the
castles of feudal times. As we walked slowly




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.        161
away, we turned again and again to gaze upon a
scene so full of beauty and interest.
In the church of St. Martin's at Vevay, which is
beautifully situated in the midst of trees and
vineyards, the remains of the regicides Ludlow
and Broughton are buried. The latter read the
sentence of death to Charles I., and both died in
exile. As we looked at the lovely prospect from
the eminence on which the church stands, our
thoughts wandered across the ocean to the New
England town where we had so often stood by
the graves of Whalley and Goffe, who were also
exiled at the same time and endured such privations in our own land. We could not but feel
that they were more fortunate who sought a
home by the borders of Lake Leman.
Basle, August 3.
We are now on the brink of the Rhine, which
rushes past our hotel with great force and power,
and is here a magnificent stream. We were
welcomed to our "HlIotel des Trois Rois " by the
gilded effigies which decorate the front, and have
found Basle a clean, thriving towi, full of haxdsome residences and pleasant streets.  The
Cathedral is a curious edifice placed in a conmmanding situation, and painted red. It is deco11




162            THE OLD WORLD
rated with quaint carvings and statues-among
them St. George and the Dragon are very prominent. On one side of the church are extensive
and picturesque cloisters, whichn are a succession
of halls and open spaces, and still serve for burial
places, as they have done for centuries. Many
reformers are buried here, and as the cloisters
extend to the verge of the hill overlooking the
river, it is supposed to have been the favorite
resort of Erasmus, who died here in fifteen hundred and tihirty-six, and whose tombstone is in
the cathedral. Basle has acquired a high reputation in the religious, literary and artistic world;
for while it has been regarded as the stronghold of Methodism in Switzerland, its University
is very flourishing, and the collection of paintings
by Holbein in the Museum are evidences of the
power of the great master who made this town
his home. We were much interested in our visit
to the Mission House, the object of which is to
educate missionaries for the promulgation of the
Gospel among the heathen. Every facility is
given to the student to acquire the desired knowledge, andwe found the Museum full of curiosities
which had been sent from various lands by those
who had been educated there, and were now




SEEN WITH YOONG EYES.         163
laboring for their Master in the missionary field.
Just forty years ago, the society of Basle projected their mission to Africa, and sent four
missionaries to Akropong. Now, that community,
including converted natives, consists of more
than ten thousand members. The children of
missionaries are kindly cared for, and educated
by the society at Basle, and we saw more than
one hundred and fifty of these little creatures playing about the grounds of the institution, looking
well and happy. It seemed strange enough to
find upon the wall at the head of one little bed,
the photographs of faces well known to us, and
to learn that the little son of an American missionary to Africa was enjoying the benefits of
this pleasant home, his father having been sent
under the auspices of the Basle society.
The laws formerly were very strict with reference to Sunday, but they have been much
modified.  All are not compelled to dress in
black to go to church, as was once the law, and
every variety of costume is seen. The enormous
bow of black ribbon which the peasant women
wear on the top of their heads looks very strange,
but is not ungraceful, although, as a means of protection to the face, it amounts to very little.




164            THE OLD WORLD
Strasburg.
The beautiful open-work spire of the noble
cathedral announced our approach to this town
long before we could see anything else, and it
seeled to penetrate the very clouds. A nearer
view did not dispel the illusion, we found, and
when we remembered that the spire, so delicate
and elaborate in its workmanship, was finished
more than fifty years before America was discovered, we could not but wonder at the skill
which had made the light, airy, graceful structure
so durable. The interior too, with its rich sculptures and gorgeous stained glass, is very beautiful, the circular window being forty-eight feet
across, and exquisite in coloring. The famous
clock, which is a marvel of skill, and was invented
three hundred years ago, attracts strangers
always, and we were fortunate in being in the
cathedral at the hour of twelve, when the images
and puppets were set in motion, and the cock
gave its triumphant crow.  Besides this, the
clock calculates eclipses, teaches the sun and
moon their courses, and does many other things,
equally wise and learned.
From the cathedral, we drove to the church of
St. Thomas, which contains the monument to




ll l 62!t,,~,ih!,f111
STRASBUR ()CK.
--— ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
STRASBUR(-  (' I[,(  ('Is.








SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.          165
Marshal Saxe, erected to his memory by Louis
XV. The figure of the hero himself, represented
as calmly descending into his grave, is very noble,
and a very beautiful female figure, representing
France, who is endeavoring to detain him, and
stay the approach of death, is most touching in
its tenderness of expression. There are, in the
same church, some curious relics of the past, in
the shape of two bodies, said to be those of the
Count of Nassau and his daughter, who died
more than a century ago. They are kept in
glass coffins, and are in a wonderful state of
preservation, although by no means beautiJful.
The gay brocade silk dress, and wreath of faded
artificial flowers, on the poor shrunken head of
the young lady, seemed a mockery; and the
spectacle was rather disgusting, although very
curious as representing the costume of that day.
Our visit to the establishment for the training
of deaconesses was very interesting, and we
found everything in beautiful order, and the
sisterhood apparently very happy in the works
of mercy and charity to which they consecrate
themselves. The institution was founded twentysix years ago, and during that time, thousands
have received their tender care and ministration,




166             THE OLD WORLD
which they bestow without reward-and as their
report says, "to prove their gratitude to Him
who has saved them."
The town is full of nice shops, and but for the
vile odors which saluted us everywhere we went,
we should have enjoyed peeping into them; but
the pleasure of walking about the streets was
much lessened by the sufferings to which one's
nasal organs were exposed. So we retreated to
our hotel, and being in the region
",Where the ducks fly about with the true pheasant taint,
And the geese a'e all born with the liver complaint,"
we of course tasted a "pate de foie gras," for
which the place is so famous; and as there are
thirty-eight large breweries worked by steam in
the town, we also had most excellent opportunities of indulging in an unlimited amount of beer.
The inducements to partake of that beverage
were certainly very great, from the fact that a
tavern near by bore the following inscription;
"Strong beer and wine of the first quality.
Customers drinking more than twelve glasses,
will be sent home in a cab, free of charge, in case
they are unable to walk."
Baden-Baden, August 4.
We are now in this fashionable German water



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.          167
ing-place, so charmingly  situated among the
hills forming  the Black  Forest range. The
valley here is very narrow, and the town with its
fine trees, shrubbery, and: pretty gardens, is all
one pleasure ground. Indeed pleasure seems the
main end and object of life here, for one encounters very few invalids, and all is elegance and
display.  Princes, blacklegs, and gayly-dressed
ladies are equally numerous, and the place is
adapted to all tastes. There are balls, concerts,
and gaming-tables, for those who like them, and
for those who prefer quiet, there are shady walks,
dark woods, and deep valleys, where the solitude
is complete. There are thirteen springs in the
town, all of which are hot, and the temperature
never varies at any season of the year. It is
used mostly for bathing, but a few invalids
resort to the handsome temple which serves as
pump-room, and drink the waters very early in
the morning. We found one trial of its qualities
quite enough.
The Kursaal, which is the celebrated gambling
establishment, is the great point of attraction
here. The whole edifice is splendid in gilding,
upholstery, and immense chandeliers. It offers
all its accommodations to visitors, free of charge,




168            THE OLD WORLD
and throughout the season there is a concert of
instrumental music every evening.  There are
free reading-rooms, attractive refreshment-rooms,
and a magnificent room for concerts and balls.
Here are the roulette tables, at which two persons preside with great solemnity, to mark the
game, while- groups of anxious gamblers are
seated around-men and women, old and young.
It was painful to watch the eagerness of some of
the players, although there was less excitement
than we were prepared to expect, and everything
was done quietly and silently. As those who
stake the money have really nothing to do with
the process by means of which it changes hands,
it is, of course, all sheer chance. Yet, stupid as
it is, people sit there by the hour, losing at one
moment, and winning at the next, until they
have perhaps lost everything, or have won all
they desire, for the present. So it goes on, day
after day-so it has done for many years, and
despair, ruin and suicide, have been the results very often.- Fortunately the players do
not play against each other, but against the ban/c,
so that there are less quarrels than there would
be, if it were more like private gambling. Still,
the misery caused here has been immense, and it




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.          169
is a blessed thing that it is all to be done away
with before long, by order of the Prussian government.
We took a delightful drive of two miles through
an avenue of shady oaks to Lichtenthal, which is
pleasantly situated near a beatutiful valley, and
afterwards ascended the hill above the town, on
the summit of which are the picturesque ruins of
the old castle. It was the earliest residence of
the ancestors of the house of Baden, and so situated as to afford complete security from  the
attacks of foes. From the galleries around its
battlements, the views are very extensive and
beautiful, comprising the Black Forest, with its
dense woods, enclosing verdant valleys-the
town of Baden at your feet-villages, convents
and church spires in the distance, while on the
other side, the path of the Rhine may be traced
far away. All this, seen in the light of the setting sun, made a picture long to be remembered.
-Heidelberg.
We came in sight of the most magnificent
ruin in Continental Europe, in a little more than
three hours from Baden; and as the castle is on
the brow of a high hill which towers directly behind the city, it is almost constantly in view.




170            THE OLD WORLD
It is, indeed, one of the wonders of the world,
for while it has been repeatedly captured and
dismantled, twice struck by lightning, and in
sixteen hundred and eighty-nine blown up by
the French, it still stands gloriously beautiful in
its decay. The walls, in some parts, are seventeen feet thick, and the cunning hand of Art was
busy for many centuries, rAising and adorning
them. Over the windows and doorways and
chimneys, are exquisite sculptures, while the
outer walls are richly ornamented with statues.
Many of them are entire and beautiful, but others
have been sadly maimed, and present a very
grotesque appea rance, with noses sliced off, and
arms and legs wanting.
The most magnificent portions of the castle
were built for the English Princess Elizabeth,
daughter of James I. and granddaughter of Mary
Queen of Scots, the wife of the Elector, Frederic
V., afterwards king of Bohemia. Her married life
commenced most brilliantly here, and one cannot
but look sadly upon the beautiful palace, garden
terrace and triumphal arch, erected in her honor,
when one thinks of the misery of her later years.
But she would be a queen, and when her husband hesitated to accept the crown of Bohemia,




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.          171
she exclaimed: "Let me rather eat dry bread at
a king's table, than feast at the board of an
Elector i"  So her desire was fulfilled, more
literally than she wished or expected, for she and
her children lived to eat dry bread, and were
dependent on charity for the necessaries of life.
There is an endless variety to the ruins of the
castle, and the architecture of different ages
strikes the eye in wandering about. There are
towers, large and small, fantastic gables, a moat
and drawbridge, and a curious old chapel. The
ruins are all the more impressive from  the
ivy which covers them-the large stalks of which
show its great age; while in many parts large
trees are growing from  the top of the walls.
The Rent Tower, which was blown up by. the
French, but was too strongly built to be demolished, has a grove of linden trees on its summit.
The Heidelberg Tun, which holds nearly three
hundred thousand bottles of wine, is among the
curiosities of the castle, and the funny image of
the old man that used to keep it, is shown in the
same cellar. The Tun is shaped like a hogshead
laid lengthwise, and over the top is a floor, where
in former times, when it was filled, it was customary to dance around the bunghole. It has




172            THE OLD WORLD
remained empty a hundred years, however, so
that the voice of merriment has long ceased in
that cellar, although the Tun is kept in repair.
The view from the garden terrace is beautiful
and extensive, comprising the romantic town
crowded in between the mountain and the rushing stream of the Neckar, which is seen, for a
long distance, winding through  fertile vales.
The spot where the students fight their absurd
duels, on the opposite side of the river, was
pointed out to us, and we afterwards met many
of these youths, with their faces gashed and
scarred and plastered up. They wear little caps
of different colors, about as large as a saucer, and
much that shape, to denote the corps, or societies,
of which they are members, and are frequently
accompanied by an immense dog. Their duels
are seldom dangerous to life or limb, and the
aim is always to disfigure the face by sword cuts,
and not to injure seriously. As there are generally about seven hundred students in Heidelberg,
these cuttings and slashings are very common,
and one scarcely stirs out without meeting some
one who is enjoying a fresh wound. Heidelberg
does not contain very much to interest transient
visitors, but the church which has been for cen



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.         173
turies occupied by Romanists and Protestants, is
very curious-a thick partition wall running between the nave and the choir, the former belonging to the Lutherans, the latter to the Catholics.
There is also a most elaborately carved stone
house, black with age, very quaint in its appearance, which was erected in fifteen hundred and
ninety-two, by a French Protestant who narrowly
escaped the massacre of St. Bartholomew. His
gratitude is expressed in several devout inscriptions in Latin on various parts of the building.
We drove out to the Wolfs Brunnen, so named
from a spring which rises there, and from a tradition that Jetta, an enchantress, who resided
there, was torn to pieces by a wolf. The place is
famous for its trout, which are kept in a pool,
and fed with other fish caught in the river. It is
a great place of resort, but we were by no means
fascinated with its attractions, for it seemed
damp, dark and gloomy, while the dead fish
floating on the top of the pool gave us a distaste
for the gorged trout beneath the water, on which
parties come there to dine. We found the Swiss
Cottage far above, on the mountain, much more
attractive, with its beautiful views up and down
the valley, and  the wonderful castle beneath




174            THE OLD WORLD
us, its red ivy-covered walls gleaming in the setting sun.
Frankfort.
Our stay in this pleasant town, with its numerous white houses, so different from  most
continental cities, has been very brief, but we
have driven through its broad, cheerful streets,
and into the narrow dark lanes of the Jews'
quarter, where the curious wooden buildings
have gables overhanging their basement stories,
out of the windows of which opposite neighbors
might almost shake hands. In this odd place,
the famous Rothschild family lived for many
years, and here the venerable mother preferred
remaining all her life, when she might have occupied a palace near by.
We have thoroughly enjoyed the great art
glory of Frankfort, the Ariadne of Dannecker, of
which it has been said that "travellers on the
road to Italy praise it, and all on their way
home criticise it."  The ease and grace of the
attitude, the position of the head, and the exquisite beauty of the form are most charming,
and it seemed to us faultless. One could not but
think of the poor little boy whose scrawls with
chalk and charcoal, on the marble of the stone



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.        175
cutter who lived next door to him, were the
occasion of constant beatings from his father.
But blows and lockings-up could not quench the
genius of Dannecker. Neither could poverty
and loneliness, home-sickness and heart-sickness
among the ruins and relics of Rome. When very
old, after receiving all worldly honors, Canova
paid him a visit, and was so struck by his childlike simplicty, pure, unworldly nature, genuine
goodness and happy temperament, that he called
him "The Blessed."
Hamburg.
-We are again in the midst of the gayety and
gambling of a much frequented watering-place.
The Kursaal, with its pleasure-grounds and
music, is very attractive, while the virtues of the
medicinal springs attract many who need the
benefit of their healing waters. One difference
between this place and Baden-Baden seems
to be, that here gambling goes on through the
entire year, except Sundays, and fete days, making
three thousand six hundred play-hours in a year.
It is impossible to imagine the amount won and
lost during that time. Disgusted as we were
with gambling, we found ourselves watching the
games with interest; and we saw one young man




176           THE OLD WORLD
win a large pile of gold, and by degrees lose
every particle of it; when he left the table with
a countenance perfectly unmoved, although his
eagerness to win had been almost painful. One
of the markers of the game, a solemn-looking
individual, kept uttering the words, " Le jeu est
fait, rien ne vas plus," with such deep tones, and
in such a monotonous manner, that it reminded
me of poor little Paul Dombey at Dr. Blimber's
school, when the clock continually repeated the
doctor's question, "How-do-you-do, my-littlefriend?"
Hamnburg is beautifully situated, with pleasant
walks and drives all about its neighborhood; and
while many bodily cures are undoubtedly effected
here, it is equally certain that many fortunes
take wings across the green cloth, and are
swallowed up in the capacious jaws of the
bank.
Cologne, August 10.
A lovely day found us on the majestic Rhine,
which with its ruined castles standing like silent
sentinels on its heights, its vineyards, crags and
mountains, presented a constantly changing
picture, a "blending of all beauties," which we
enjoyed extremely. The fortress of Ehrenbret



SEEN WITU YOIUNG EYES.         177
stein opposite Coblentz, with which it is connected
by a bridge of boats, is a massive and command-.
ing structure, and seems perfectly invulnerable. It
is almost entirely hewn out of the natural rock,
and its resources are wonderful, it being capable
of holding a garrison of fourteen thousand men,
and the magazines are large enough to contain
provisions for eight thousand men for ten years.
It is, indeed, a stupendous fortification, towering
majestically above everything else, and may well
be called a " tower of victory."
The picturesque castle of Stolzenfels, which
stands very high upon a jutting rock overlooking
the Rhine, also justifies its name, " Proud Rock,"
by its commanding position, and truly regal
appearance. With its ivy-covered battlements,
turrets and towers, it is said to be the most
irmposing of all the castles on the Rhine. It was
here that Queen Victoria and Prince Albert paid
a visit some years ago to the King of Prussia.
Shortly after passing it, we met a steamboat
profusely decorated with British and Prussian
flags, on which was the Prince of Wales, bound
for the same charming place, to visit his sister,
the Princess of Prussia. We reached Cologne
late in the evening, after a day of constant and
12




178            THE OLD WORLD
eager devotion to the beauties of the Rhine,
which we thought almost equal to our own noble
Hudson-but not quite. The captain of the
steamboat, a young man of much intelligence,
consoled us when we mentioned our lack of
ruins, by saying, "_Ah, but you do not need
them!" He was right.
After a night's rest, we were prepared to visit
the grand and beautiful Cologne  Cathedral,
which was commenced six hundred years ago,
and is not yet finished. WTorkmen are employed
to arrest the decay which has been going on for
centuries, and others are adding their skill to the
already exquisite workmanship evident everywhere. Yet it seems almost a hopeless task ever
to finish the structure, although there is now a
general interest felt in its completion all over
Europe. Its gray buttresses are draped with
verdure, vines a;nd briars everywhere feed on its
decay, ivy and moss overrun its walls in many
places, while swallows and other birds build
their nests amid the sculpture of its arches.
But this decay is less evident within, as there
are magnificent painted windows of modern date,
and the vast pillars and arches are very imposing.
The choir is very beautiful, with its rich painted




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.        179
windows of the fourteenth century, tapestries
after designs by Rubens, frescoes, pillars, chapels and statues of the Apostles in colored and
golden robes. Behind the high altar is the
shrine of the three kings of Cologne-the wise
men led by the star of Bethlehem to the manger
where the infant Saviour lay. Through  an
opening in the shrine, the three skulls are seen,
crowned with golden crowns; their names, Gaspar, Melchior, and Balthazar, being written in
rubies. They  are most curious and ghastly
relics, but are looked upon with entire faith by
devout Catholics.
Santa Maria in Capitolio, which occupies the
site of the capitol of the Roman city, is one of
the oldest churches in Cologne. It dates from
the year one thousand, and is placed upon the
same spot on which a church was founded in the
year seven hundred. We descended into the
ancient crypt, which was once used as a place of
worship, the walls of which are still covered with
old paintings, and everything in p.erfect repair.
Cologne abounds in historical associations, and
has much to interest in the way of pictures and
antiquities. The Town Hall is a noble old building, having been erected in different centuries,




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and combining the Gothic and Italian styles.
We felt, in walking about, that whatever might
have been the state of Cologne in the days of
Coleridge, it hardly deserved the reputation he
has given it by the well-known lines:
" The river Rhine, it is well known,
Doth wash your city of Cologne;
But tell me, nymphs, what power divine
Shall henceforth wash the river Rhine?"
Certainly, the river lRhine can wash it now,
and not need much cleansing. Perhaps the
reputation for vile odors may have been an
advantage to the various manufacturers of Eau
de Cologne, of which there are twenty and more
who claim to be the veritable successor of the
inventor, Jean Maria Farina himself. Of one of
these unmistakable personages we made a purchase, which quite satisfied us, although we were
by no means sure that his was the genuine article, after all. One cannot buy of all the competitors, however, and must exercise much faith.
Brussells.
Our journey of several hours to the gay little
capital of Belgium, was warm and uncomfortable,
and the drive from the railway station to the
pleasant Hotel de Bellevue, in the Place Royale,




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.          181
seemed interminable. We found ourselves near
a park, rich in grand old trees, and adorned
with statuary. The house itself had been made
famous in the revolution of eighteen hundred
and thirty, by being in the midst of the combat
between the Dutch troops and Belgian insurgents. It was riddled with shot, and for a long
time, many of the cannon balls were allowed to
remain imbedded in the walls; but it is a peacefnl, quiet place, now, and thoroughly comfortable. In the centre of the square in front of the
hotel is a spirited horse, in bronze, which looks
ready to leap from his pedestal, with his rider,
Godfrey of Bouillon. One could not but think of
the different scenes that square must have presented after the battle of Waterloo, when the
poor wounded soldiers were carried by hundreds
through it. The city now is so bright, gay and
cheerful, so like a Paris in miniature, that it is
difficult to associate such scenes of misery with it.
When we visited the lace manufactory, however, for which Brussells is so famous, we felt
that we were in a scene of misery in one sense,
although the fabric shown us was so exquisitely
beautiful. Brussells lace loses much  of its
beauty when one learns that those who spin the




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thread are obliged to work in close, dark rooms,
into which the light is admitted through a small
aperture, thus requiring such careful attention as
to make the effort very painful. Those who
make the lace are all rendered near-sighted by
the nature of the labor, and frequently lose their
sight entirely. Most of the poor creatures whom
we saw at work, looked sad and dispirited, and
we did not wonder, when we saw them straining
their eyes over the delicate meshes. They sometimes work steadily for days, on a single flower
or leaf; and the lace is kept unsoiled by being
constantly covered, except at the point on which
they are immediately engaged. It was a striking
commentary on the business that a box was
placed in the workroom, for the contribution of
visitors towards the support of those who had
become blind, or disabled by the work; and it
was something of a relief to our consciences, to
bestow our mite, after making a purchase.
The Cathedral of St. Gudule is a very handsome Gothic edifice, with splendid painted glass
windows, and statues of the twelve apostles
placed against the pillars in the nave. There
are also some monuments to the Dukes of Brabant, one of them being a lion in bronze. The




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.         183
pulpit is a masterpiece of wood carving, by Verbruggen; and the more we examined its minuteness and perfection of finish, the more remarkable
it seemed. " It represents a globe supported on
the tree of knowledge of good and evil..At the
base of the tree, Adam and Eve are being driven
out of Paradise by an angel, who wields the
sword of flame; while Death, as a sheeted skeleton, glides around with his dart, from the other
side. The tree is teeming with delicious-looking
fruit, and perched on the branches are many
birds and animals.  At the side of Adam are
the ostrich and the eagle, while, in rather satirical vicinity to Eve, appear the ape, the peacock
and the parrot. Above the canopy stands the
Virgin, bearing the infant Saviour in her arms,
and assisting to thrust the extremity of the cross
into the serpent's head."  The pulpit is certainly
a sermon in itself, and it is doubtful if more
eloquent ones are often preached from it.
We found much to admire in the way of paintings, in the old Palace of the Prince of Orange,
and looked with great interest upon the grand
Hotel de Ville, situated in a grand old square.
It was finished in fourteen hundred and fortytwo, and is said to be the most splendid munici



184           THE OLD WORLD
pal palace in the Netherlands. The abdication
of Charles V. took place here, and in the marketplace in front, the Counts Egmont and Horn
were beheaded by order of the cruel Alva, in
fifteen hundred and sixty-eight. From the windows of an old Gothic house in front of the
square, Alva is said to have looked down on the
execution. The beautiful tower of Gothic openwork, upon the Hotel de Ville, is surmounted by
a copper figure of St. Michael, which is seventeen
feet high, but seems no larger than an ordinary
weathercock. The view from the spire is very
extensive, and the colossal lion which marks the
centre of the battle-field of Waterloo is easily
seen from it. The house, too, which Lord Byron
has made so memorable, where the Duchess of
Gordon gave the grand ball on the eve of that
wonderful battle, is still standing-but the
"beauty and the chivalry " of that occasion have
long since passed away.
Paris, September 3.
We have spent three charming weeks in this
most charming city, and. begin to feel that we
have seen a little of Paris-but only a little, compared with what remains to be seen. We have
wandered through the immense palace of the




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.         185
Louvre, with its seven miles of pictures-its
sculptures, relics, models, costumes of all times
and lands, and personal memorials of nearly all
the French monarchs. Among the latter, a
valuable cabinet, belonging to Marie Antoinette,
and the veritable gray coat and three-cornered
hat which one so frequently sees in the portraits
of Napoleon I. One feels almost oppressed by
the vastness and richness of the collection.
At Versailles, we literally skcated through the
galleries, the floors being so highly polished as
to render the effort of walking almost painful.
We found much to interest us in the portraits of
distinguished characters of France, and laughed
heartily over the caricatures of our own Washington, and other American celebrities, which
were hanging in state in one of the rooms.
The collection of battle-pieces by Horace
Vernet, Paul de la Roche, and numerous others,
is something wonderful, and would require
weeks to examine. Among the sculptures, the
admirable statue of Joan of Arc, by the Princess
Marie of Orleans, the daughter of Louis Philippe,
seemed a remarkable specimen of artistic skillremarkable, at least, for royal hands.
We found the gardens and park, with their




186            THE OLD WORLD
numerous fountains, statues, and vases, most
enchanting; and it was pleasant to see everywhere the merry groups who were enjoying it
all to their hearts' content.
The Grand Trianon, which is a handsome
villa erected by Louis XIV. for Madame de
Maintenon, contains some sumptuous apartments;
while the Petite Trianon is simple, but tasteful,
and infinitely more interesting from its having
been the favorite resort of Marie Antoinette.
The windows open upon a beautiful garden, and
one could imagine what a charming retreat it
must have been from the ceremonious life of
royalty. We found it a striking contrast a few
days after, to visit the low, brick-paved apartment
of the Conciergerie, where for seventy-six days,
after her husband had been beheaded, and her
children torn away from her, she was tortured
by misery, grief and humiliation. From this
gloomy apartment she went to the guillotine,
and we looked with sad interest upon the abode
of such wretchedness. UJpon a little altar in the
room, is the small bronze crucifix which she
used, and there are three pictures upon the wall,
representing some of the closing scenes in her
life-otherwise the room is empty and desolate.




SEEi WITH YOUNG EES.          187
One could almost imagine the noble woman, in
her simple white dress, wallking through the low
door for the last time, with the majestic step
which never faltered, presenting to the morning
air her head turned gray by sorrow. One shuddered to think of the noble, refined woman,
placed upon a common cart, her hands tied
behind her, while the vulgar mob leered and
jeered, followed her to the place of execution,
and taunted her in her agonies; even stopping
the cart in front of her palace, that she might be
still farther agonized at seeing her former home,
now so desolate.
Near the Conciergerie is the building occupied
by the Prefecture de Police, and from this point
emanates all the threads of the visible and invisible n et-work of police authority. Public
security is so admirably provided for in Paris
that we were not sorry to see this building,
although we found a discouraging amount of
circumlocution necessary, in order to reach the
Prefect, through whose permission alone we
were allowed to visit the Conciergerie.
We met hosts of policemen, both in uniform
and in citizens' dress, in our amusing wanderings
up-stairs and down-stairs, to find the Prefect's




188            THE OLD WORLD
chamber, and were almost afraid of being arrested for vagrants before our efforts were crowned
with success.
We made a short visit to the Palais de Justice,
and saw the judges and advocates in their black
robes, pacing up and down the long, lofty hall,
through which most of the courts are entered.
The Sainte Chapelle, near by, was originally the
palace chapel, and erected in twelve hundred
and forty-five, for the reception of sacred relics.
The interior consists of two chapels, an upper
and a lower - the former having been  destened for the accommodation of the court, the
latter for the attendants. The Chapel is a very
beautiful Gothic edifice, and in the upper chapel
are clusters of columns, rich decorations, and
gorgeous stained-glass windows of ancient date,
which are placed so near together that the sides
and ends seem entirely of glass. The effect is
very rich and elegant.
We were very much delighted with the Jardin
des Plantes, where all classes of objects belonging
to Natural History are represented. The gardens are tastefully laid out, and an endless variety of living plants, animals and birds, are to be
found there, while in the buildings that surround




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.         189
the garden are immense cabinets of botany,
mineralogy, zoology, and comparative anatomy.
There are free lectures given by different professors on all subjects connected with the kingdom of nature, in a large amphitheatre, which is
capable of containing twelve thousand persons.
In the early part of this century, Humboldt
presented four thousand five hundred tropical
plants, which he had brought from Americathree thousand of which belonged to species
hitherto unknown. We rested some time beneath
a magnificent cedar of Lebanon, which was
planted there in seventeen hundred and thirtyfive, while the celebrated Buffon was director of
the gardens. Our drive through the beautiful
Bois de Vincennes, which  was formerly  an
ancient forest, and as early as twelve hundred a
favorite hunting-ground of the French monarchs,
was charming. It has been quite recently laid
out as a Park, in the same style as the Bois de
Bologne, and will, one day, rival it in beauty.
The chateau of Vincennes is very picturesque
and: interesting, from the many historical associations connected with it -for hundreds of years,
and the long list of illustrious persons confined
within its walls. It is now used as an armory,




190           THE OLD WORLD
and contains weapons for the equipment of one
hundred and twenty thousand men. The wonderful collection of curiosities in the Hotel Cluny,
astonished and delighted us, as well as the
quaint building itself. The curiosities exceed
three thousand in number, and are of endless
variety. There are carvings, ecclesiastical decorations and vestments, furniture, tapestry, weapons, carved ivory, stained glass, pictures, etc.
One room is called "La Chambre de la Reine
Blanche," because Mary, sister of Henry VIII.
of England, and widow of Louis XII., once
occupied it, and wore white mourning according
to the custom of the Queens of England. It
contains now a variety of musical instruments of
olden times-among them the earliest style of
piano, a little thing on slender legs, very different
from the grand and massive ones now in use.
Through the back court one enters the lofty,
vaulted hall, which constitutes the only remnant
of the old Roman baths. It seems a strange
thing to find there, and with the curiosities it
contains, is the only specimen of the old Roman
period existing in Paris.
We have been fortunate in being in Paris
during the fete in honor of the birthday of




PLACE DE LA CONCORDE.








SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.         191
Napoleon I., which occurs on the fifteenth of
August. The illumination, decorations, and fireworks were very grand and imposing, and the
military display very fine. The Emperor rode
up and down the ranks reviewing the troops,
followed by the Prince Imperial, who touched
his cap gracefully to the thousands of people
who stood to the right and left, looking on.
There did not seem to be much enthusiasm,
however, and we only heard "Vive l'Emperor,"
now and then. One could not but look with
deep interest on the pretty little boy, and wonder what the future had in store for him. We
afterwards saw the Empress, and were sorry to
notice a care-worn expression on her still beautiful face; but her life must necessarily be one of
great anxiety, and of late, the health of her only
child has been an added sorrow to her loving
heart. He looked very robust, however. The
scene in the Place de la Concorde, in the
evening, was magnificent.  The place itself,
with the beautiful trees of the Tuilleries on one
side, the Champs Elysees opposite, the two
fountains, the obelisk of Luxor, the groups and
single statues, all were brilliantly illuminated.
The entire length of the Champs Elysees to the




192           THE OLD WORLD
Arc de Triomphe was a scene of enchantmentrows of lamps on each side making the whole
distance as light as noon-day, and showing the
outline of the arch with entire distinctness.
From the Tuilleries garden to the Arc de Triomphe there was a dense crowd of people —men,
women and children-and it is difficult to
imagine a more animated, or more beautiful
scene. The fete finished with some gorgeous
fire-works, which seemed to illuminate the whole
heavens. Notwithstanding the immense crowd,
everything passed off very quietly and harmoniously, and the Police had little to do but look on.
We have seen more of our own Protestant
churches in Paris than any others, but the M/adeleine and Notre Dame claimed our notice, and
the former seemed to us very unchurchlike,
although very magnificent.  It is wholly of
marble, without and within, and its form is that
of a Grecian Temple, it having been designed by
Napoleon I. as a " Temple of Glory." Afterwards
the distinction of the edifice was altered by
Louis XVIII. who proposed to convert it into an
expiatory church to the memory of Louis XVI.,
Louis XVII., Marie Antionette, and Madame
Elizabeth. The restored Bourbon dynasty made




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.          193
it a church, and it was completed under Louis
Philippe, with an inscription on the front which
dedicated it "to the Almighty God, through the
invocation of St. Mary Magdalene."  The Corinthian colonnadel by which it is surrounded,
with its magnificent cornice and colossal figures
of saints between the columns, all make it very
grand. There are no windows, but the light
enters through four sky-lights which surmount
cupolas, very gorgeously gilded. This, however,
prevents many of the pictures and statues from
being seen to the best advantage, as the light is
insufficient. All the chapels are decorated with
statues of their different patron saints, and
pictures representing scenes from the life of Mary
Magdalene. The Chapelle des Mariages contains
a group in marble' representing the nuptials of
the Virgin; and the Chapelle des Fonts, or baptisrmal chapel, is adorned with a group representing Christ and John the Baptist in the Jordan.
The interior is a spacious hall, richly decorated
and gilded, and very beautiful, but does not
suggest a temple of worship.
lNotre Dame is a fine Gothic structure of a ecry
different character. It stands on an island in the
Seine, and is surrounded by sheds and workshops,
13




194            THE OLD WORLD
which do not add to its beauty, but its three
arched portals, with their exquisite sculptures, are
v-ery fine. The three rose windows of ancient
stained glass are considered the most beautiful
in Europe; but the effect of the interior has been
sadly injured by the recent painting of the various
chapels, in genuine wall-paper patterns. This
church will always be interesting from the associations connected with it-Napoleon I. having
been married here to Josephine, and the present
Emperor to the present Empress.  On the
occasion of the baptism of the Prince Imperial,
the ceiling was decorated with golden stars on a
blue ground. This, however, has been removed,
although the present taste is very questionable.
We have, of course, indulged in the "round of
shopping" which seems to be considered essential
to a thorough understanding of Paris, and while
we have found the shops abundantly supplied
with the most elegant articles, we have not found
" All manner of things that a woman can put
On the crown of her head, or the sole of her foot,"
so very cheap. Certain things in the way of
finery may be cheaper, but anything substantially elegant, is costly. Still, there is no doubt
that the same thing would be more expensive il




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SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.        195
our own land; so that when one is in Paris, it is
better to take advantage of that fact.  Then
there is an air about anything made by a Parisian
modiste, which it is difficult for any one else to
acquire, for the French seem to have a magic
power in matters of dress.
Newport, Isle of Wight, Sept. 7.
There could not well be a greater change than
from  gay, bustling Paris to this quiet old
town. Our journey here was most agreeably
varied by a short visit to Rouen and Havre. In
the former place, we went first to the Cathedral,
a splendid monument of Gothic architecture,
containing many fine sculptures and monuments;
among them the tomb of Richard Coeur de Lion,
whose heart is buried in the Cathedral, he having
bequeathed it to the city of Rouen, on account of
the great love he bore the Normans.
The church of St. Ouen is much superior to
the Cathedral in point of size and architectural
beauty, although having less historic monuments.
The central tower is very elegant, being nearly
three hundred feet high, and of most graceful
proportions, while the interior is a " perfect
pattern of airy gracefulness." We were delighted
with our drive through the quaint streets of




196            THE OLD WORLD
Ilouen, with its most curious old gateways and
elaborately carved dwellings. The Place de la
Pucelle, took us back to the thirtieth of July,
fourteen hundred and thirty-one, when Joan of
Are, the glorious shepherd girl that had delivered
France, was burned at the stake. A monument
is erected to her rjaemory, to mark the place
where she suffered. And here that young girl of
twenty was burned for heresy, with a soldier's
staff broken, and formed into a rough cross,
clasped to her breast; while her meek and saintly
demeanor won from her enemies, that till now
had believed her a witch, tears of rapturous
admiration. And when the smoke was rising
upwards in volumes, and she saw that the one
friend that would not forsake her, a Dominican
monk, who was -praying at her side, was in
danger, she thought only of him, bidding him
with her last breath to care for his own preservation, but to leave her to God.
It is not strange that the executioner knelt at
every shrine for pardon for his share in. this
awful tragedy! Now, it is said that the Bishop
of Orleans: seriously intends to demand of the
Pope, to canonize the heroic girl. How strange
that a Church which in one century burns a




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.          197
woman at the stake as an instrument of the foul
fiend, can, in another, proclaim that she was a
saint; and that pious Catholics must tell their
beads before her statue to the supplication,
"Saint Joan of Are.! pray for us!"
The fact that Havre was a seaport town,
seemed to reveal itself everywhere we went; and
we found the collections of shells and corals in
the shops very attractive. It seemed to us that
every shop was a depository for various articles
pertaining to the sea.  Few things, however,
interested us so much as the wonderful aquarium
in the gardens of the Exposition, which is most
admirably managed, and contains a great variety
of fish and beautiful sea plants.  The light
coming from above, upon the large glass tanks
containing them, added very much to the effect,
and we wandered about among these " wonders
of the deep " for a long time with great delight.
Our voyage from HIavre to Southampton was
made in one of the elegant and commodious
steamers with which travellers are accommodated
in crossing the channel! The spacious saloon
was hardly large enough to  "swing a cat " in;
and although like Mr. Dick in David Copperfield, I could say, "I don't want to swing a eat, I




198            THE OLD WORLD
never do swing a cat; therefore, what does that
signify to me " yet I found it did signify, so I
resigned my right in the crowded cabin, and
very thankfully took a position on deck for
the night. With a glorious full moon, and
the sea without a ripple, the night passed
most comfortably, and we were all prepared to
sing again the praises of the Channel, over which
we had passed twice with such entire comfort.
We remained in Southampton only long enough
to walk from one steamer to another, and after
a pleasant sail of an hour, found ourselves at
Cowes on the Isle of Wight, from which place to
Newport was only a short expedition by rail.
The Isle of Wight has been called a miniature
England, and it certainly seems to have the exquisite finish which only a master hand can give. The
afternoon of our arrival, we drove to Carisbrook
Castle, in which Charles I. was imprisoned during the troublous times of Cromwell and the
Commonwealth.  The window from  which he
attempted to escape is still shown; and one
could not look from it, and think of his sad fate,
without a feeling of sorrowful sympathy. The
castle is most charmingly situated, commanding
views in all directions, of hills, dales, woods and




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.       199
gentlemen's villas. We wandered about the walls,
looking through the openings, and climbing to
the top of the keep, where we sat for a long time
enjoying the beauty of the scene. Below us was
the old tournament ground, and it required but
a little imagination to bring before us the gay
cavaliers, and bright-eyed ladies, who once graced
that spot. The famous well of the Castle, which
is two hundred and ten feet deep, and twelve
wide, is very remarkable, and the trained donkey
which draws the water stepped upon the wheel
and kept it in motion until the bucket was raised,
quite as if he considered it a matter of course.
The immense depth of the well is all the more
wonderful when one considers that there are
only twenty-five feet of masonry, and the rest is
cut from the solid rock. When a pin is dropped
into the well, the sound produced when it strikes
the water is distinctly heard; and a candle let
down, was almost lost to sight from the great
distance it travelled before reaching the water.
Donkeys are quite an institution here, and we
saw one meek-looking animal browsing quietly
about, enjoying a green old age, which had
worked faithfully at the windlass more than forty
years.




200            THE OLD WORLD
On our return from the castle, we visited some
curious Roman remains near Newport, which
were discovered nine years ago. It has been
supposed that a Roman villa once stood upon
the spot, and some of the mosaic pavement is
very perfect and entire. The woman in charge
of the place amused us very much with her description of the various rooms originally there,
going about with all the air of having resided
there in the old Roman days, and pointing out
each different apartment by saying " This were the
kitchen-this were the court-yard," &c.
We have spent one day driving about the
island and visiting the scene of Legh Richmond's
labors-a day long to be remembered. On our
way to Brading we went to one of the extensive
chalk-pits for which the island is so famous, and
it seemed strange to stand upon the brink of a
precipice formed entirely of the soft, pure material.
The bright sun upon it made it quite unpleasantly dazzling to the eye. Shortly after, we
ascended a hill and sat down on the ground near
the triangular stone pyramid where Legh Richmond so often sat, when his mind was "filled
with any interesting subject for meditation." It
was pleasant to look upon the same glorious




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.           201
Scenes which had charmed him so often, and we
found, indeed, a "complete circle of interesting
objects," comprising every variety of beautiful and
magnificent views.  Hills covered with  corn,
grass, wood, heath or fern —a river running
through fruitful valleys-villages, churches, country-seats, farm-houses and cottages, were scattered in every direction, while far off appeared
the ocean glittering in the sunlight. We spent
some time on  this favorite "mount for contemplation," and then drove to the old church
in Brading where Legh Richmond so faithfully
labored. The church is an antique structure of
the seventh century, and the parsonage formerly
stood at the end of the church-yard, but has
been taken down. The trees under which he
used to assemble his little group, are still standing, and we could imagine them dispersed in the
church-yard, learning the verses he desired.
"Little Jane, the young  cottager," is buried
near the church, and the stone is still to be seen
with the epitaph she learned, which so much
impressed her.  Few churches are visited with
rmore interest than  this simple, unpretending
structure, which brings travellers from all parts
of the world -Legh Richmond's tracts having




202             TEr  OLD WORLD
been translated into nearly every European language.
We drove to Sandown, a pretty bathing-place
on the sea, and were quite amused in watching
the small houses drawn out into the water by a,
single horse, into which ladies entered on the
shore, handsomely bedecked, and soon appeared
at the rear of the house, plunging into the waves,
and looking very much like escaped lunatics.
From  Sandown we drove to the beautiftil
village of Shanklin, and walked through Shanklin Chine, a curious opening in the cliff, through
which a stream of water runs, the steep descending sides being covered with trees, bushes,
wild-flowers and ferns, while occasionally bold
masses of rocks appear. It is the wildest, prettiest place imaginable, with views of the ocean,
now and then, which were magnificent. At the
upper extremity of this great fissure, some picturesque cottages, covered with ivy, are placed,
and near one, a pretty rustic fountain asked us
to partake of its cooling water, by an inscription
rudely printed upon it:
0, traveller, stay thy weary feet;
Drink of this fountain, cool and sweet;
It flows for rich and poor the same.




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.            203
Then go thy way, remembering still
The wayside well beneath the hill,
The cup of water in his name.'
Such an invitation was irresistible, and we
found the pure element most refreshing after our
long tramp.
OuLr drive to Heal Common, the former home
of the Dairyman's Daughter, added another
pleasure to our pleasant day. The cottage stands
as it did in the days of the Walbridge family, but
they have long since passed away. The house
still wears the old aspect of neatness, and the
little dairy,with its stone floor, bright rows of
tins, and fresh pats of butter, looked very inviting, but the little, low chamber, where Elizabeth
Walbridge's weary hours of suffering were made
bright and peaceful by her Christian faith, was
more interesting than all.  One could almost
imagine the pale face lying upon that pillow, and
the feeble voice uttering her last words —" All is
well, well, well."
We went to the old church of Arreton, with its
dial on the wall, where she was buried on the
thirtieth of May, eighteen hundred and one. It
is a curious specimen of olden time, with tablets
inserted in the walls, and upon the pillars, while




204              THE OLD WORLD
the chtlrchyard in which it stands is filled with
crumbling tombstones and quaint epitaphs.  One
individual, who had left a yearly sum to the poor,
is thus commemorated on one of the church
tablets ~
" Loe here under this tombe incoutcht
Is William Serle by name;
Who for his deeds of charitie
Deserveth worthy fame.
A man within this Parish borne,
And in the house called Stone
A glasse for to behold a work
Hath left to every one;
For that unto the people pore
Of Arreton he gave
An hundred powndes in redie coyne
He willed that they shoold have
To be employed in fittest sorte
As man coold best invent
For yearly relief to the pore,
That was his good intent;
Thus did this man, a batcheler,
Of years full fifty-nyne,
And doeinge good to many a one,
Soe did he spend his tyme,
Until the days he did decease,
The first of Februarey,
And in the yeare of One Thousand
Five hundred neyntie-five."
We have been made very comfortable at the
Bugle Hotel in Newport, and are quite willing
to sound its praise in loud and earnest tones.




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.         205
Indeed, there are few days that better deserve a
"white stone," than those we have passed on the
lovely Isle of Wight.
London, September 11.
We find London comparatively quiet and deserted at this unfashionable season, and it seems
to have lost many of its charms since we left,
last May. But we have found much to interest
us, nevertheless, and our visit to the National
Museuam at South Kensington was a source of
great pleasure, not only for the immense collections in the way of botany, models, drawings,
china, etc., but the numerous fine paintings to be
seen there. The buildings are on the most extensive scale, and admirably arranged; and it
was a great pleasure to look upon the originals
of so many pictures long familiar to us in engravings. The gallery is rich in paintings by
Hogarth, Sir Joshua Reynolds, Copley, Sir
Benjamin  West, Turner, and  Landseer. It
abounds in portraits of distinguished personages,
and we stood for a long time before those of
John Philip Kemble and Mrs. Siddons, by Sir
Thomas Lawrence. The former is superbly
dressed as Hamlet, while the latter wears the
short waist of the day, with her arms bare to the




206            THE OLD WORLD
shoulders —the beautiful arms, on which it is
said that Sir Thomas Lawrence employed sixty
hours. The famous Cartoons of Raphael, which
were originally made for designs in tapestry for
the Vatican, and are described as "not excelled
in beauty and completeness by any paintings in
existence," are now  at Kensington, after a
sojourn of many years at Hampton Court. One
only wonders that they should be in such a perfect state of preservation, after so long a time,
and so many changes. We paid a pleasant visit
to Christ's Hospital, or the Blue-Coat School,
one day; and while we could not but appreciate
the noble charity which thus educates and maintains sometimes twelve hundred boys at once,
we felt sorry for the poor fellows in the cruelly
grotesque apparel prescribed for them, at the
founding of the school, more than three hundred
years ago. A long blue cloth coat, reaching
nearly to their heels, an orange-colored short petticoat, a red leather belt, yellow stockings, and
white bands, may have been considered the thing
centuries ago, but now it looks strangely enough.
The funny little woollen cap belonging to this
costume, is about the circumference of a small
saucer, has a tassel on the top, and no rim, fits




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.         207
the head quite snugly, and is carried in the
pocicet. We constantly met the boys in various
parts of the city, and they were always bareheaded; and we were told that even in winter
they preferred the covering which nature has
given their heads, to the prescribed caps. They
find the long blue coat very much in their way
sometimes, and we were quite amused with their
ingenuity in tucking it up under their belts when
at play, thus making an odd-looking short jacket
of it. Everything in the hospital is in beautiful
order and thoroughly comfortable.
Numerous portraits of Edward VI., the young
boy-king who founded the institution, embellish
the walls, and we walked about thinking of
Charles Lamb, and other men of world-wide
fame, who had made these corridors ring with
their merry laughter.
On the last day of our stay in London we made
a pilgrimage to the Tower, one of the most remarkable places there, it having been at different
times, a strong fortress, a splendid palace, a
secure prison, and associated with the history of
the past, for centuries. The first part was built
by William the Conqueror, in ten hundred and
seventy-six, as a safe place of retreat for himself




208            THE OLD WORLD
and his followers in case of a revolt against him
by the citizens of London. The Tower is now
a confused cluster of buildings, each having its
own history. It is manned by a considerable
body of troops, and contains the principal supply
of arms for the army and navy. It was wonderful to see the artistic skill with which these arms
are arranged on the walls and ceilings of large
halls, the glittering weapons being formed in
every design imaginable. In one long gallery,
there are wooden horses in full plate armor, as
large as life, on which are seated figures of
knights and nobles, also in full armor, as if ready
for battle. In many instances the squire, similarly encased, stands at his master's side. The
effect on first entering this hall, with all these
knights arranged as if in battle array, and armed
to the teeth, is quite startling. Then there are
suits of steel and chain armor that once belonged
to English kings, and specimens of antique and
foreign weapons. In one apartment are thumbscrews, racks, instruments of torture, and the
block and axe used for the execution of the two
wives of Henry VIII. and Lady Jane Grey. We
thought of the golden canopy drawn by many
horses covered with white damask, under which




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.        209
poor Anne Boleyn was seated when taken to the
Tower in grand procession, a beautiful young
bride, courted and caressed. In less than four
years, that fair young head lay upon the bloody
block before -us. We found much to make us
shudder in the Tower, and much to make us rejoice that those days of tyranny were over. We
were shown the room which for many centuries
was used for state prisoners, with inscriptions still
remaining upon its walls, made by its various
heart-broken inmates-the tower in which the
Princess Elizabeth was imprisoned, and the
octagonal room in which Sir Walter Raleigh was
confined for twelve years, with his bed-room excavated in the prison wall, which is here seventeen feet thick. Here he wrote his " History of
the World," and from here he went to the block,
saying, " It matters not how a man's head lies, so
that his heart is right."  The man in the crowd
seems to have spoken the truth, who said, when
Raleigh's head fell from his shoulders, "We
have not such another head to cut off."
Of course, among the wonders of the Tower, we
peeped at the Crown Jewels, after being locked
in the room before we were allowed to do so.
They are placed in a large glass case in the centre
14




210            THE OLD WORLD
of the room, and an iron railing prevents any.
person from coming too near them. They can be
seen, however, without any difficulty, and the
display was very fine, comprising some of the
crowns worn by the kings and queens of past
generations, and that of the present queen, which
is composed of purple velvet, enclosed by hoops
of silver, and studded with diamonds, rubies and
sapphires. As it weighs a pound and threequarters, it is not strange that the queen seldom
wears it.
The famous gKo-ih-noor, or mountain - oflight diamond, is also in the case, with many
other gems and articles of value-among them,
the silver gilt baptismal font, in which some of
the royal babies have been baptized.  We have
taken great pleasure in seeking out the spots so
interesting to an Americhn, associated with the
great and good who have passed away, with
whose names we are so familiar. The old
churches, too, are full of interest to us, and we
feel that London has a dignity peculiarly its own,
It is not so gay as the continental cities we have
just left, but is solid, substantial, and elegant,
and the more one sees of it, the more one admires it.




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.          211
Leamington, September 14.
We tarried a few hours at Oxford on our way
here, and although we had not time to visit the
twenty colleges and five halls, which constitute
the University, we were able to see the most
famous of them all, Christ College, which owes
its origin to Cardinal Wolsey. In the chapel,
which is also the cathedral church of the bishopric of Oxford, are some ancient and curious monuments, and the church itself is a most quaint
specimen of a past age. The dining-hall, said
to be the finest in the kingdom, is decorated
with an extensive collection of portraits, and the
library is very -rich in manuscripts, prints and
coins. Everything looked old and quaint, but it
was so well kept, and in such perfect order, that
it was a great pleasure to roam about through
the different courts and corridors, and over the
green lawns. We drove to the Theatre, where
degrees are conferred —an immense building with
galleries, which was designed by Sir Christopher
Wren.
It is here that the students make merry on
"commemoration day," and take such liberties
with the dignitaries assembled there-last year
saying to Mr. Tennyson when he walked in,




212            THE OLD WORLD
dressed somewhat carelessly, "Did your mother
call you early, Mr. Tennyson?" Degrees are
conferred here; and many, like Robert Southey,
have been " Ell ell deed," after being called
"many laudatory names ending in issimus."
The view of Oxford and its surroundings, from
the top of the theatre, quite repaid us for the
ascent, and we afterwards drove to the rivers Isis
and Churwell, on which Oxford is situated, and
saw the gayly-painted crafts which make the
boat races there so famous. The Martyrs' Memorial also interested us very much, standing as
it does upon the spot where Cranmer, Ridley and
Latimer met their fate with such wonderful
serenity-the former holding the hand which had
unwillingly signed a recantation of his principles,
over the flames, saying, "Oh, this unworthy hand
-this unworthy hand!".The monument was
erected by public subscription in eighteen hundred and forty-one, and there are statues of the
martyrs standing in niches upon it. The inscription says that "they yielded their bodies to be
burned, rejoicing that to them it was given, not
only to believe in Christ, but also to suffer for
his sake."
We have been most comfortably situated at the




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.         213
Regent's Hotel in Leamington, and have found
the drives in this lovely WVarwickshire very delightful. Hearing that the Earl of Warwick was
expected the night of our arrival, and that it
would be impossible to gain an entrance into the
castle during his residence there, we drove to it
almost immediately. The grand old castle, situated on a rock washed by the river Avon, is very
magnificent, and we strolled through its long
suites of apartments adorned with valuable paintings, rich furniture, vases, statues, and all sorts
of beautiful and costly things, not knowing which
to admire' most, the wonderful collection within,
or the glorious views seen without, from each
window. The grand entrance hall, which is sixtytwo feet long, and forty wide, has a floor of
polished marble, and a ceiling of beautifully
carved oak. It is hung with shining suits of
armor, great branching horns of deer, and has a
deep, wide chimney, where we could fancy the
Yule log burning at gay Christmas gatherings,
while the wassail cup passed merrily round. We
lingered under the magnificent oaks and cedars
in the grounds, saw the beautiful antique vase
found near Hadrian's villa at Tivoli, which holds
one hundred and sixty-eight gallons-and again




-214   -       TE OLD WORLD
passed through the long, wide passage cut in the
rock, lined with ivy and flowers, through which
we entered the grounds of the castle. Here we
saw, in the porter's lodge, the armor of Guy of
Warwick, the gigantic man who carried a sword
seven feet long, and weighing twenty pounds,
and wore helmet, shield and breast-plate, to
match. His porridge-pot, which holds one hundred and two gallons, and from  which it is
said he was accustomed to take his food, is filled
with punch on grand occasions, and distributed
to the tenantry.
We left the castle carrying in our minds pictures of beauty not soon forgotten.  Among
the paintings upon the walls, the grand portrait
of Charles I. by Vandyke, which hangs by itself at
the end of a narrow hall, impressed us most.
From Warwick we drove to Kenilworth, once a,
lordly structure, and now a beautiful and pieturesque ruin. We wandered among its yet
unlevelled walls and towers covered with ivy,
and thought of the visit of Queen Bess in fifteen
hundred and seventy-five, when she entered in
grand procession, escorted by her favorite Earl
of Leicester, and followed by her brilliant court.
During the seventeen days of'her visit, what a




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.          215
scene of revelry must that castle have beeneach day having its special sports. Hunting,
dancing, bear-baiting, Italian tumblers, donkeyracing, tilting, &c., to say nothing of eating and
drinking, were constantly going on. Now these
magnificent fetes are over, and solemn-looking
rooks are the principal dwellers here. "Where
princes feasted and heroes fought; all is now
desolate," yet very lovely in its desolation.
Our drive to Stratford on Avon was over a
pleasant road, and we found it a pretty country
town, quiet and sunny, with many new, inode'rnlooking buildings in it which denote a present
prosperity, while there are still a large number
of quaint, moss-grown houses, which seem  to
belong to the far away past.'It took us, indeed,
far into the past, to tread the very pavements
once trodden by Shakspeare, and to walk across
the fields over which he had so often walked, in
his early manhood, to visit his beloved Anne
Hathaway. The old walls and dilapidated roof
of the cottage still remain, and we stood in the
immense fire-place and sat upon a worm-eaten
settle on which we were told the lovers used to
sit. But there are few things in the cottage connected either with the poet or his wife, although




216            THE OLD WORLD
it is now occupied by a lineal descendant of the
Hathaways. We were glad that the walk to
Shottery was by a simple foot-path, and that we
were compelled occasionally to cross a stile, for
it all seemed to harmonize with one's poetic
memories of Shakspeare. We could imagine the
boy of eighteen, running merrily over the very
path we were treading to "tell his love" to the
fair one, who, after all, did not make him very
happy. The old, unpretending house, with its
three rooms, the front one having been a butcher's
shop, where Shakspeare was born, is still kept as
it was, with the exception of some necessary
repairs. A narrow flight of winding, wooden
stairs, leads into a low chamber, with one window
looking out upon the quiet street, in which the
greatest of all poets first saw the light of Heaven.
The room is small and simple, yet the humble
and great of all nations have there met to do
homage to genius. Its walls, and the albums
kept there, bear the names of the noblest in rank
and talent that the world has seen.
For a century and a half after the poet's death,
the house remained the property of private individuals; but it is now owned by the nation, and
the garden and grounds in the rear have been




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.         217
made very attractive with trees, shrubs and
flowers.
From the first home of Shakspeare we walked
through the quiet streets to the picturesque old
church on the banks of the Avon, where he was
laid to his rest. The entrance is through a beautiful avenue of lime trees, the branches forming
an arch overhead, and the church contains many
gorgeous monuments, but the simple bust over a
doorway in the chancel representing the poet
writing upon a cushion, is more attractive than
all. It is painted to resemble life —the eyes being
a light hazel, the hair and beard auburn, the
doublet scarlet, and the gown, without sleeves,
black. His death in sixteen hundred and sixteen,
and his age, fifty-three, are inscribed beneath the
bust, while over the rough free-stone slab in the
chancel, which covers his dust, are the famous
lines which have kept the spot sacred from intrusion so long.'We lingered a long time at this
" pilgrim shrine," and then returned to the Red
Horse Inn, which has been immortalized by our
own countryman. We were shown into a parlor,
over the door of which, "Washington Irving's
parlor" was painted in large letters, and an iron
poker was brought us, carefully treasured up




218            THE OLD WORLD
in a crimson velvet bag, on which was engraved
" Geoffrey Crayon "-it being the one which he
used when there. It was pleasant to find our
great prose writer remembered in the home of
the great poet.
On our return to Leamington we drove by
Charlecote Hall, which is about four miles from
Stratford, and the scene of Shakspeare's trial for
poaching. The house is a quaint old building in
the Elizabethan style, and the parks filled with
grand old trees, under which we saw immense
herds of deers, showing that a taste for these
pretty, graceful creastures still exists in the Lucy
family. We also drove through the beautiful
grounds of Stoneleigh Abbey, the country seat of
Lord Leigh, charmingly situated on a slopinig
bank of the Avon, where we saw some ivy-mantled remains of the old abbey which was founded
in eleven hundred and fifty-four.
Leamington, although one of the most fashionable watering-places in England, is delightfully
quiet, and it is difficult to believe that it is a
place of great resort. It is pleasantly situated on
the river Leam,. and the streets wide, clean and
handsomely built up. The beautiful grounds of
the Jephson gardens, the noble gift of the benevo



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.         219
lent Dr. Jephson himself, are very attractive,
being very spacious, and laid out with great
taste. There are terraces, walks winding by the
river, and miniature lake-a shadowy grove, open
spaces for croquet and archery-flowers, summerhouses and rustic arbors-swans on the lake, a
band of music in summer, and skating in the winter. Truly, as Mr. Hawthorn says, "Leamington
seems always to be in flower, and serves as a home
for the homeless all the year round."  We did
not find many persons in the pump-room in the
morning, and when we had tasted the beverage we
were not surprised.
Birmingham.
We have remained long enough in this smoky
city to become somewhat initiated in the process
of manufacturing some of the articles for which
the town is famous. The beautiful papier mache
manufacture, which commences with a coarse
piece of paper, and by putting several thicknesses
together and polishing, rubbing and painting,
becomes an exquisite piece of furniture, interested
us very much. Then we saw the electroplating,
which speedily turns a common-looking article
into something so like gold and silver, that it is
impossible to detect the difference. Afterwards




220            THE OLD WORLD
we went to the wonderful steel-pen manufactory
of Joseph Gillott, and were astonished beyond
measure to see how many hands a steel pen went
through before it was finished, and how large
and extensive Mr. Gillott's factories are. He
gives employment to many hundred persons, and
we were glad to see the workmen in pleasant,
well-ventilated, and well-lighted rooms.
Peacock Inn, Derbyshire.
We are at the most perfect specimen of an old
English inn that can be imagined; the favorite
resort, as it may well be, of artists and anglers,
and all who enjoy the picturesque and beautiful.
The house itself, with its gabled roof, clustering
chimneys, ivy-clad porch, and vine of brilliant
berries, entirely covering the front, deserves the
name of " pride of the village "-while its situation
in a pretty garden, with a stream  of water
pattering over the pebbles at the foot, and an
arched stone bridge near, is charming.  The
historic associations of olden time are manifest
as one approaches the doorway, over which is
the carved figure of an expanded peacock, the
crest of the Manners' family. Below it are the
mysterious letters




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.         221
IOHNSTE
VENSON
1653.
which probably means that one John Stevenson
was once the fortunate proprietor of this establishment.
Mr. Longfellow, who was here a few days ago,
was very loth to leave this lovely spot, and we
can fully appreciate his regret. It is a place to
tarry in for weeks —not days. The scenery is
charmingly picturesque, and we have greatly enjoyed our drives to Haddon Hall and Chatsworth;
the former place taking us back to the old feudal times, and the latter showing the magnificence
of the present.  Haddon Hall is a complete
picture of an ancient baronial residence, beautifully situated on an eminence on the east side of
the river Wye, and as its ivy-clad towers rise
majestically above the wood-crowned hills, the
effect is very grand and imposing. For a century
and a half, it has been occupied only by those
who have the care of it, but it is kept in perfect
repair, and is wholly unaltered since the days
when it was a constant scene of hospitality and
revelry. The kitchen is immense, having two fireplaces, each large enough to roast an ox whole,




222            THE' OLD WORLD
while there are double ranges of dressers, and
irons for a multitude of spits. Large chopping
blocks, and a massive wooden table hollowed out
into basins for kneading-troughs, show that the
seven score of servants formerly employed here
were kept busy. The banqueting hall has a
music gallery over the entrance, and at the
opposite end of the room is the raised floor or
dais, where the master of the house sat with his
more distinguished guests, above the salt, which
always occupied the centre of the board. Persons
of inferior degree were stationed below the salt,
thus denoting their rank. We were shown an
iron handcuff, still chained to the wall, in which
it was customary to lock the wrist of any guest
who refused to take his portion of liquor. By
this contrivance the hand was fastened very high
above the head, and while in that position a
quantity of cold water was poured down the
sleeve of the unfortunate victim. Pleasant way
that of making a man convivial! There is still
another dining-room, which was fitted up, when
it became less customary for the lord of the mansion to dine with his dependents. This was built
in fifteen hundred and forty-five, and over the
fire-place is a panel with the motto underneath




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.        223
"Drede God and honour the Kyng." We were
shown numerous rooms in this most interesting
place, and all the principal ones were hung with
loose arras, much of which remains. The doors
were concealed behind the hangings, but there
were great iron hooks by which the tapestry
could be held back, to avoid the necessity of
lifting it up every time, when passing in and out.
In one of the bed-chambers is preserved the
once magnificent state bed, on which royal personages have often slept —George IV. having
been the last occupant. The bed is richly decorated with green velvet, lined with white satin, and
the now tattered canopy and hangings are said to
have been embroidered in the reign of Henry VI.
by Eleanor, the wife of Sir Robert Manners.
The chapel is a most curious relic, showing distinctly by its architecture, that it was erected at
different periods, and that personal comfort
connected with religious worship, was unthought
of in those days.  The chapel contains some
painted glass more than four centuries old, and
on one window is an inscription in black-letter
characters, suggesting a prayer for the souls of
Richard Vernon and Benedicita his wife, by whom
it was erected in fourteen hundred and twenty



224:          THE OLD WORLD
seven. As we left this' most remarkable of all
the ancient houses in the kingdom, we saw, in
one of the gardens belonging to the establishment, some very curious specimens of an art now
almost out of use-the peculiar training and
clipping of trees and shrubs to represent various
figures. There was one clump of shrubbery cut
to resemble a peacock, which was very perfect —
the bill, crest and tail being complete.
From Haddon Hall we drove to Chatsworth,
the "Palace of the Peak," which forms a striking contrast to the sombre aspect of the old
baronial mansion we had just left, it being one
of the "stately homes of England" of comparatively modern date, and in perfect repair. We
drove a long distance through the park, with its
glorious old trees, and herds of deer, until we
reached the porter's lodge, with its three wrought
iron, richly gilt gates. There we entered the
court which leads to the great hall, a spacious
and noble apartment, with a mosaic floor of
black and white marble, and columns of beautiful Derbyshire spar. Over the fire-place is a
tablet with the inscription, "These well-loved
ancestral halls, founded in the year of English
freedom, 1688, William Spencer, Duke of Devon



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.          225
shire, inherited in 1811, and perfected in the
year of sorrow, 1840."  The "year of sorrow" refers to the death of his wife.
We were conducted through apartments, with
carved wainscoting, splendidly painted ceilings,
inlaid oaken floors, exquisite statues, magnificent
vases, long galleries of paintings and sculptures,
until we were quite overpowered with the combination of genius, taste and skill.
Afterwards we walked about the grounds near
tho house, which are laid out with surpassing
taste in every variety of landscape gardening.
Immense rocks have been brought from  a considerable distance, to make a formation of grotto
work, having all the appearance of nature. Then
there are fountains, artificial ponds, cascades, and
a remarkable weeping willow, presenting all the
appearance, in copper, of a living tree, which,
on touching a spring, sends forth a shower of
water from sprigs, leaves and roots. It is said
that Queen Victoria (then Princess), after a visit
to the Duke of Devonshire in eighteen hundred
and thirty-two, when asked what she admired
most at Chatsworth, replied, "the  squirting
tree!" We found the oak planted at that time
by her youthful hands tall and thriving, and the
15




226          - THE OLD WORLD
American chestnut which her illustrious mother,
the Duchess of Kent placed in the ground on the
same occasion, also in vigorous condition.
The conservatory, which has a passage in the
centre large enough to drive a carriage through,
and is covered by seventy-six thousand square
feet of glass, contains the most rare and beautiful plants to be found, and an aquarium where
water plants are raised in perfection. But with
all the splendors within, and beauties without,
the Duke of Devonshire only resides in this
charming place a few weeks every year, having
so many other residences which claim his attention. Truly, an "embarras des richesses."  Nothing can be imagined more beautiful than the
park, which is nine miles in circumference, and
diversified with hill and dale.
Yorkc, September 17.
We reached this ancient city late last evening,
and rose very early this morning to walk about
the old walls, which have stood so firmly for
centuries, and are still in a very perfect state.
They are three miles in circumference, and have
a delightful promenade on the top, which commands a beautiful prospect not only of the sur



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.        227
rounding country, but the Minster, and Clifford's Tower, which was the old keep of the
castle.
We felt quite like "pilgrims and strangers,"
as we took our early morning stroll, with the
city so quiet beneath us —the "hum of multitudes astir," not having yet commenced. Fortunately, we found a verger who kindly admitted
us into the magnificent cathedral, and we greatly
enjoyed the early morning light upon it, and
the sun shedding its rising beams upon the
gorgeous stained glass east window of the Lady
chapel, which has been called the "wonder of
the world, both for masonry and glazing." We
wandered about among the gigantic columns,
and through the transept, nave, and beautiful
choir, trying to comprehend the grandeur of
this wondrous structure, but its magnificence
was quite bewildering. So many hundred years
have been spent in beautifying and perfecting it,
that nothing seems wanting now.
Some of the old monuments are very peculiar.
One of them is to the memory of Archbishop
de Grey, who died in twelve hundred and fiftyfive, and consists. of a canopy, supported by black
marble columns eight feet high. On a flat tomb




228            THE OLD WORLD
under the canopy, is an effigy of the Archbishop
in his pontifical robes.
But the splendors and beauties of this remarkable cathedral are endless, and we regretted that
we could not go again and again, to enjoy, and
wonder, and worship.
The ruins of St. Mary's Abbey, which was
formerly a powerful monastic institution, founded in the time of William the Conqueror, are
extremely pretty, although comparatively small.
It was surrendered to Henry VIII. in fifteen
hundred and forty, during the reformation, and
there were then fifty monks in the establishment,
enjoying its beauty and luxury.
Melrose, Scotland.
This pleasant village, picturesquely situated,
as it is, on the Tweed, and at the base of the
Eildon Hills, would have a charm  in itself, b.ut
the elegant and graceful remains of its Abbey, so
famous in romance and poetry, add greatly to
its interest.
We are at the George Hotel, where an excellent portrait of Washington greeted us, as we
entered the dining-room, and made us feel quite
at home, at once.
We soon sought the beautiful ruins which have




I I       ~        "........................'
MADELEINE.-[See Page 192. 1








SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.           229
brought us here, and can, in some measure, imagine the ancient magnificence of this celebrated
monastery, as it retains so much of its architectural splendor and sculptured beauty now, from
the fact that the red sandstone of which it was
built, has resisted the weather for- ages —the
minute ornaments are as entire as when newly
wrought. When one remembers that it dates
back as far as eleven hundred and thirty-six, and
was destroyed in the sixteenth century, it seems
indeed, wonderfully preserved.
We wandered about, enjoying the beautiful
views at every point-the  glorious windows,
carvings, and tracery, and regretted that for us
there was no "pale moonlight" in which to see
it in still greater perfection. Still, we did not
find that
" the gay beams of lightsome day
Gild, but to flout, the ruins gray."
We have made a deeply interesting visit to
Abbotsford; driving through a pleasant, picturesque country, all of which seemed associated
with the "great magician."  On our way there,
from Melrose, we made a little detour, and drove
through the grounds of Chiefswood, where Mr.
and WMrs. Lockhart once resided, and where Shi




230            TIlE OLD WORLD
Walter Scott so frequently took refuge, when he
desired quiet. The prattling brook, and shady
lane, by' which the grounds are entered, recalled
him, and his visits to the cheerful home of his
beloved daughter, and we could imagine him
seated on that porch, with his darling grandchild, John Hugh Lockhart at his knee. " Huntley Burn," too, where his friends, the Fergussons,
used to welcome him, was near at hand, and we'looked with deep interest upon the place where
had once resided those whom he so tenderly
loved. "A happier circle, (says Lockhart,) never
met-but now  those bright eyes are forever
closed in dust-those gay voices forever silent,"
We found Abbotsford lying low on the banks
of the Tweed, and hidden  from  the road by
trees. The house is a picturesque and curious
structure, and  the effect is very  striking,
although it is by no means so spacious as the
pictures represent. The entrance hall is tastefully
hung with armor, antlers, weapons, and many
interesting relics —among them, the keys of
the old Tolbooth prison in Edinburgh.
Then, in other rooms, there are picturessome very rare and valuable-one of them, a
head of Mary Queen of Scots, after her execution,




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.         231
is an original, and Sir Walter Scott would never
suffer a copy to  be taken. There is also a
grotesque picture of Queen Elizabeth in fancy
costume, which is anything but flattering.  The
family portraits interested us more than anything else, and we were shown several of the
poet, taken at different times, those of his early
boyhood looking wonderfully like those taken in
his manhood.
There are portraits of Lady Scott and Mrs.
Lockhart-a lovely picture of Miss Anne Scott,
a bright-eyed brunette; and a full length likeness of the last Sir Walter-a tall, handsome
young man in uniform. There is also a curious
portrait of Sir Walter's great grandfather, who
allowed his fill beard to grow after the execution
of Charles I.
The library contains several thousand volumes,
carefully protected by an iron grating. In this
room is the bust of Scott by Chantrey, full of life
and expression. There are also a number of
ebony chairs presented to Sir Walter by George
IV. The room adjoining was his private room,
or study, with the chair remaining in the position in which he sat, and the desk at which he
wrote. -The walls of the room are lined with




232            THE OLD WORLD
books, with a small gallery running around the
whole, and a private staircase by which he came
from his bed, or dressing-room, at pleasure.
When he told the Duchess of St. Albans that he
could come into his room by this private way,
and work and write as much as he pleased
"without any one's being the wiser for it," she
replied, "that is impossible "-a compliment
both graceful and true.
In a glass case are preserved the clothes Sir
Walter last wore - the broad-skirted blue coat
with large buttons, the trowsers of shepherd's
plaid, the heavy shoes, the broad-brimmed white
hat, and stout walking-stick, all looked so much
as if they were to be worn again, and made his
presence seem so recent, that one involuntarily
spoke low, and glanced towards the door at
which he used to enter.
The drawing-room is a lovely apartment, with
a large bay window looking out upon the Tweed,
and the hills opposite. Here, surrounded by his
children, his great heart ceased to beat on the
twenty-first of September, eighteen hundred and
thirty-two. A short time before, he had asked
to be wheeled about his rooms, and this was
done for an hour or more, while he said again




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.         233
and again, "I have seen much, but nothing like
my ain house." Then was read to him from
the "one book" to which he desired to listen,
"Let not your heart be troubled. In my Father's house are many mansions-I go to prepare
a place for you." So with those sweet words of
comfort in his ear, and " God bless you all," upon
his lips, he breathed his last.
"It was a beautiful day," says Lockhart,-" so
warm that every window was wide open, and so
perfectly still, that the sound of all others most
delicious to his ear, the gentle ripple of the
Tweed over its pebbles, was distinctly audible, as
we knelt around his bed, and his eldest son
kissed, and closed his eyes."
As we stood, in silence, by that open window,
with the Tweed still rippling over its pebbly bed,
it seemed hardly possible that thirty-six years had
passed away since that most touching scene
occurred, on that very spot.
From Abbotsford, we drove to Dryburgh
Abbey, the picturesque and ivy-grown ruin,
where, in the burial-ground of his ancestors, the
Haliburtons, Sir Walter is buried. It lies off the
public road, in the midst of noble trees-among
them some grand old yews-one of which is said




231            THE OLD WORLD
to be of the same age as the Abbey, which dates
back to eleven hundred and fifty.  Columns,
arches and windows still remain to show that the
structure must once have been of great size and
architectural beauty, while the ivy creeping all
over the walls, and covering them with a thick
matting of shining foliage, or hanging in graceful
festoons, only makes the ruin still more beautiful.
Beneath one of the arches of St. Mary's aisle,
enclosed by an iron railing, lie the remains of
Sir Walter Scott. A simple granite slab, raised
two feet from the ground, with his name and the
date of his death, is placed over his grave. On
each side, are the tombs of his wife and son, the
late Sir Walter, and at his feet lie the remains of
John Gibson Lockhart.  It is a calm, lovely
spot-silent and solemn-and seems a fitting
burial-place for one whose genius has given such
life to all these memorials of departed centuries,
and who, in the midst of his glory, suffered and
sorrowed so deeply.
There is no bridge over the Tweed near the
Abbey, and we were rowed over in a skiff, which
is the only mode of crossing the river. The man
told us that there had been nearly eleven thousand visitors to Dryburgh during the summer.




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.         235
Edinburgh, September 22
Our stay of several days in this strangely
picturesque and weird-looking town, has been
somewhat marred by almost constant rain, or
genuine Scotch mist, which has made all the distant views quite indistinct. Yet there have been
times, when Arthur's Seat and the Salisbury Crags
lave stood out in all their beauty and grandeur,
while the quaint old town itself is full of interest,
even in a drizzling rain.
Certainly, never was there a more curious
place than "Auld IReekie," with its old and new
town, separated by a broad and deep ravine.
The old city still has its narrow streets, intersected by closes and wynds, (that is, lanes and
alleys,) and tumble down houses from six to ten
stories high, in which the population is so immense, that the houses overflow into the streets
and sidewalks, making it a matter of skill to get
safely through the crowd, sometimes.
The new town wears a very different aspect;
having wide streets, handsome shops, elegant
mansions, fashionable hotels, public squares,
monuments and statues. In front of our Hotel
is the beautiful Gothic monument erected to the
memory of Sir Walter Scott, which is two hun



236              THE OLD WORLD
dred feet high, and contains the noble statue of
the poet by Chantrey, represented in a sitting
posture, draped in a plaid, with his faithful dog
at his feet; while in various niches are sculptured impersonations of the characters portrayed
in his writings.  One could not but think of the
sonnet of one of our own poets, in looking upon
the beautiful structure.
"'Tis said that'mid the Alps and Pyrenees,
And other lofty mountains, and in groves,
And hidden places where the bandit roves,
Uptowering piles of stones the traveller sees
That mark the spot where some have fallen and died:
For them these shapless monuments are reared,
And, though to none who passes by endeared,
Each from his journeyings will turn aside
To cast his mite upon the!ising moles,
And guard the memory of the lost unknown:
In this a deep, strong sentiment is shownA kindred for the dead in living souls.
If such, oh, world-renowned, thy grave could be,
An Alp would rise, a monument to thee!"
The royal castle on the brow of a precipice is
a confused pile of buildings of different ages, and
dates so far back that its origin is clouded in
obscurity, but it is full of historical and romantic interest. The plain, sombre apartments in
the most ancient part of the castle were occupied by Queen Mary; and in a small dressing



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.         237
room, James YI., in whom the crowns of England
and Scotland were united, was born. Over the
door there is a curious inscription in black
letter, commemorating the event, and invoking
blessings on the child.
One shudders in looking out of the little window, upon the precipice beneath, where, when
only eight days old, the future monarch was let
down in a basket, to be -conveyed to a place of
greater safety, by friends who were waiting at
the foot of the rocks. We looked at the regalia
with great interest, from the fact that the crown,
sceptre, and sword of state, were for a long time
hidden in an old oak chest, and that they were
connected with great historical events for years.
In themselves, they are of comrparatively little
value.
From the ramparts of the castle, we had a
superb view of the town and its surroundings,
and saw the gigantic piece of artillery, called
Mons Meg-a cannon cast in the early part of
fifteen hundred, and named after the man who
cast it, and his wife, Meg. In sixteen hundred
and eighty-two, it burst, when firing a salute for
the Duke of York, and has not been used since.
Holyrood Palace, although neither grand nor




258            THE OLD WORLD
beautiful in itself, has so many historical and
deeply tragic associations connected with it, that
it is impossible not to feel awed when within its
walls. We made a hasty visit to the picture
gallery, which contains portraits of royal and
eminent Scotch personages, but the paintings are
extremely poor, and not considered genuine.
Then we entered the apartments of the unfortunate Queen, which are preserved as they were
when occupied by her, with the very same tapestry, hangings, and much of the same furniture.
The bed, with its velvet canopy, tattered and
time-worn, with a piece of one of the blankets,
about a foot square upon it, stands as it did
when her lovely limbs reposed upon it. The
mirror too, which had so often given back the
reflection of her beautiful face, hangs upon the
wall, and her work-table, and some articles of
her toilette are still there. The little room in
which the queen sat at supper with David Rizzio,
on the night of his murder, adjoins the sleeping
apartment, and a private staircase leads to it,
from the chapel below, up which the assassins
came and made those fifty-six wounds, which
forever stained the floor of the ante-chamber
where Rizzio lay all night. In the little supper



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.       239
room, is a glass altar-piece, a painting of the
Virgin Mary, which has a huge crack in the
centre, said to have been made by the fist of
John Knox, when remonstrating very earnestly
with the Queen on the error of her ways.
The ruins of the chapel of Holyrood Abbey,
show  that it must have been a magnificent
edifice; but it has a dreary look now, and is only
used as a burial-place for illustrious personssome of the former kings of Scotland having been
buried there. In the roofless choir, the altar
stood, before which the beautiful Mary and Lord
Darnley were united in an unfortunate marriage.
We greatly enjoyed a drive to Calton Hill one
day, from which we had charming views of the
entire town, country, frith and sea. There is an
observatory on its summit, and monuments to
Nelson, Playfair and Dugald Stewart. Near it
are seen the monuments of Hurme and Burns.
Afterwards we drove through the curious streets
to the quaint old house of John Knox, and to the
house in Castle Street where Sir Walter Scott
lived several years before he built Abbotsford.
In the Greyfriars churchyard we found many
very interesting monuments, and some odd
epitaphs in memory of the Covenanters.




240            THE OLD WORLD
Edinburgh abounds in charitable institutions,
and we visited with pleasure, the " Trades Maiden
Hospital," where the daughters of worthy. tradespeople are educated and cared for. We found
it delightfully situated in the midst of pretty
grounds, with a matron whose sweet voice and
charming Scotch accent were quite fascinating.
Everything seemed to be sensibly, kindly and
pleasantly arranged for the inmates, who are
here thoroughly prepared to fill various positions
in life.
We have had the pleasure of hearing the Rev.
Horatius Bonar preach. The sermon was rather
fragmentary, but a clear presentation of the doctrine of the personality, divinity and offices of
the 1Holy Spirit. His manner is very peculiar,
at first slow and drawling, and afterwards quite
animated. He rests his body upon the cushion
of the pulpit, and very seldom  stands upright.
It was pleasant to look upon  the author of
those beautiful "Hymns of Faith and Hope," and
afterwards to meet him at his own hospitable
board, where we also met the mother of the
sainted Mary Lundie Duncan.
The churches are well filled here, and the congregations most attentive; young and old, Bible




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.         241
in hand, always turning to the texts quoted by
the preacher during his sermon. All join in the
singing, and if the music is not artistic, it is at
least more like worship, than if performed by a
hired quartette. On Sunday evening we heard
some street preaching which gathered a large and
well-behaved crowd, many of whom remained
standing a long time to listen.
Stirling.
On our way to this town, so delightfully situated on the River Forth, we passed Linlithgow
Palace, an ancient ruin placed upon an eminence
near the lake where Mary Queen of Scots was
born on the seventh of December, fifteen hundred and forty-two.
Stirling Castle is grandly situated on the brow
of a precipitous rock. The view from the walls is
most extensive and magnificent, comprising the
highland mountains Ben Lomond, Ben Ledi, and
numerous other Bens, in one direction; while
nearer, is a richly cultivated country, with the
rivers Forth, Frith and Allan forming the most
beautiful curves, and visible for miles, winding
among woods and hills. On one of these latter is
a fine monument to Sir William Wallace, two
hundred and fifty feet high. The once bloody
16




242           THE OLD WORLD
battle-fields of Falkirk, Cambiuskenneth and
Bannockburn are in full view, and the castle of
Edinburgh is seen on the horizon, far away. To
add to our enjoyment, the noble Forty-second
regiment, which  gained  such renown in the
Crimea, came out to drill soon after we entered
the castle grounds, and the bagpipes, warlike
music, and wonderful evolutions of these splendid-looking men in their Highland costume, made
the whole scene most enchanlting.
We were mluch favored in being escorted about
the castle by a soldier belonging to the Fortysecond regiment, who, although a young man,
had been ten ten years in India, and two or three
in the Crimea.  He wore many badges, showing in what battles he had fought, but that which
had the highest value in his estimation, was the
one which the government had given him for
bravery. While walking about, we saw several
soldiers undergoing punishment for desertion.
The punishment consisted in picking up and
carrying cannon-balls from one point to another,
about ten feet. They had done this for an hour
at a time, at brief intervals, for many days. We
quite agreed with our pleasant guide, that it was
a senseless kind of punishment, and it would be




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.          243
much better to make them  do something useful.
MYary Qaeen of Scots was crowned at Stirling,
and Jaines VI. was educated here. Indeed, the
castle is connected with the history of Scotla-nd
for many centuries. We were shown the tower
room where James II. assassinated William, Earl
of Douglas, on account of his defiance of his
authority.
"The tower within whose circuit dread
A Douglas, by his sovereign bled."
An incident occurred while we were in this
room, which amused us very much. Among the
visitors was a well-dressed gentleman, whom the
woman who has charge of the room took to be
Lord Napier of Magdala, for some reason or
other. So the good old soul was wonderfully
elated by the idea that she was receiving the hero
of Abyssinia. In the mean time, the gentleman
walked about with his wife, in the most unpretending manner possible, while the woman's face
beamed with smiles, courtesying to the very
ground  whenever she was addressed, and continually using the words " my lady" and " your
ladyship," when addressed by the lady. She also
informed them  that she had had the honor of




244            THE OLD WORLD
receiving the Queen, and the Prince of Wales.
Of course, our own humble party were quite
thrown in the shade, and for a few moments we
all thought we were in the presence of the great
warrior. We were soon undeceived, however, and
left the place wondering how the beaming woman
would feel when she heard that she had dispensed all those fascinating smiles upon plain
Mr. S, of London!
On leaving the castle we visited the old Greyfriars churchyard, where are monuments to some
of the lReformers, and a beautiful group in marble
under a glass case, of the Virgin Martyr of the
ocean wave, Margaret Wilson of Glenvarnock,
and her sister Agnes, who preferred drowning, to
renouncing their faith.  An angel stands over
them in a protecting attitude, while the faces of
the young martyrs, are most saint-like in expression, and full of holy faith.
Glasgow.
Our journey here has been delightful, and we
feel that too much praise cannot be bestowed
upon the weather, which is generally not agreeable at this season. Clear bright sunshine has
been our portion, and we have greatly enjoyed
our elevation on the top of a stage coach many




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.         245
miles of our way. From Callender we came to
the castellated Hotel in the Trossachs, with the
unpronounceable name of Ardcheanachrochan,
which means "the eminence at the end of the
knoll."
Loch Achray lies in quiet beauty in front of
the house, and at the back is Ben Aan with its
magnificent peak of bare rock. The drive all the
way from  Callender, was full of interest and
beauty, and Roderick Dhu and James Fitz-James
seemed real characters to us, as we followed their
footsteps. We spent the night in this enchanting spot, and were put to sleep by the humming
noise of a bagpipe beneath our window, which
sounded much like a huge mosquito. If it be
true, as Sir Walter Scott has said, that "C Highlanders reach the highest point of happiness
when twenty-four bagpipe players are assembled
together in a small room, all playing at the same
time different tunes," we were thankful to have
been spared such a musical treat. We found one
quite sufficient.
The next morning we drove through the
magnificent defile of the Trossachs to Loch
Katrine, which burst upon us in exquisite loveliness-" fair Ellen's " isle,




2416          THE OLD WORLD
"' Where for retreat in dangerous hour
Some chief had framed a rustic bower,"
being in full view. We took a pleasant little
steamer at the lake, and soon found ourselves
gazing upon island, shore, and mountains "that
like giants stand-" a combination of sylvan
beauty and alpine grandeur. Loch ]Katrine is
of a serpentine form, encircled by lofty mountains, and is ten miles in length. The immense
quaantities of fern upon the hills, in the yellow
and brown  coloring of autumn, gave a very
peculiar effect, while the lake itself, as we looked
upon it from the deck of the steamboat, appeared
almost black, so dark is the color of the water.
We seemed to be, indeed, in the midst of an
enchanted land; and the hour spent upon that
lovely lake was one of pure and perfect delight.
"So wondrous wild, the whole might seem
The scenery of a fairy dream."
At Stronachlachar Pier, near the west end of
the lake, we were met by two coaches, prepared
to convey passengers over the Highlands, and a
scrambling for seats commenced which was both
annoying and amusing. As we could only ascend
to the top of the coach by means of a long ladder,
the one who by dint of pushing others back,




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.         247
succeeded in mounting first, of course secured a
seat. There being room enough for all, however,
no necessity existed for such a rudeness, and we
were quite surprised to see it, and glad that our
own countrymen were not the uncourteous ones
on this occasion. At length we were all comnfortably seated on the dizzy height, and drove five
miles over a rugged road with glorious views all
the way, to Inversnaid.
In a lonely spot, not far from the road, Rob
Roy once resided, and near at hand is the hut,
where it is said his wife, Helen MacGregor, first
saw the light.  We also passed the ruins of
Inversnaid Fort, which was erected by government in seventeen hundred and thirteen, to
check the MacGregors, and which was at one
time the quarters of General Wolfe, of Quebec
memory. We remained long enough at Inversnaid to wander about the pretty little rivulet
and cascade, which Wordsworth has immortalized in his "Highland Girl," and then took the
steamer on Loch Lomond, "the lake full of
islands."  This is called "the pride of Scottish
Lakes," and filled as it is with beautiful islands,
of every form  and outline, lofty mountains
stretching away in the distance at the north,




248           THE OLD WORLD
grand Ben Lomond towering above them all; and
at the south, all fertility and loveliness —it is,
indeed, gloriously beautiful and sublime.
There are many charming villas in full view,
soule of them  situated on promontories, which
jut out into the lake. Among them, is iRossdow,
the splendid residence of Sir James Colquhoun;
a lovely spot.
At Balloch, we took the cars for Glasgow,
passing the grand old Castle of Dumbarton,
securely seated upon a rocky eminence.
We are now at a pleasant hotel on George's
Square, which is spacious and prettily laid out,
with a noble column in it, surmounted by a statue
of Sir Walter Scott robed in a shepherd's plaid.
There are also fine monuments to Sir John
Moore and James Watts, standing in the square.
Glasgow, for a manufacturing town, is quite
handsome, and we have been much interested in
the immense amount of shipping to be seen here
at the mouth of the Clyde. They are also enlarging and beautifying the town very much,
and it exhibits present thrift and prosperity,
very strikingly.
Kelvin Grove park is a charming spot, with
many elegant residences overlooking it, and is a




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.         249
great place of resort; "Let us haste to Kelvin
Grove, bonnie lassie, 0," being evidently sung
with good effect, to the fair maidens of Glasgow.
The Cathedral is a striking relic of antiquity,
commandingly situated, with a massive grandeur
about it, but it is rather gloomy than otherwise.
The crypts beneath are very extensive and
graceful, and were intended as a place of interment for the dignitaries of the Cathedral.
An old churchyard called the Necropolis, rises
in terraces back of the Cathedral, and in it are
some very beautiful monuments, among which,
one erected to the memory of John Knox is
most conspicuous. The cemetery, with its flowers, shrubbery, trees and gravel walks, looks
more like a pleasure-ground, than a restingplace for the dead.
We have been struck here, as we were in
Edinburgh, with the number of barefooted and
ragged women, whom we meet in the streets.
None but very well-dressed women seem  to
wear shoes and stockings at all, although the
weather is now decidedly chilly.
Glasgow abounds in religious, charitable, and
philanthropic institutions, and we were much
interested in the " Night Asylum for the House



250            TEHE OLD WORLD
less," which was instituted thirty years ago for
the benefit of the miserable beings who are
without friends or shelter. All are admitted
who apply, supper is provided for all, and breakfast for the women and children, as well as for
such of the men as appear to be most in want.
Often the applicants are quite respectable, but
out of employment from no fault of their own,
and this house affords them  a temporary shelter. That it is needed, is shown from the fact
that during the past year thirty-six thousand
three hundred and forty-nine persons have been
received and cared for. Some of the lodgings
are not very luxurious, as they consist of a
wooden pillow upon a hard floor, with a coarse
mat to wrap around the sleeper. The floor is
divided  into  compartments, by a low board,
which denotes the space each one is to occupy,
and several men share the same room, which is
thoroughly scrubbed every day. The women
are rather better cared for, and everything is
very neat and well arranged. They generally
have more applications on Saturday nights than
at other times, and there is a spacious chapel
connected with the institution, in which they
all assermble on Sunday morning, for service.




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.         251Ayr, September 28.
We are again at one of the  "pilgrim  shrines"
which it is impossible to visit withlout deep
emotion.
We find Ayr a pleasant flourishing town, with
its "twa brigs," immortalized by Burns, still
Standing, one of which was said to have been
built in the twelfth century, and is a quaintlooking structure. There is little in the town
associated with  Burns, so we drove at once
to Alloway, where stands the "s clay bigging"
with its thatched roof, in which the poet was
born. There are only two apartments in the
house, both on the ground floor —one a kitchen,
and the other a sitting-room. Both have very
small windows, and very low ceilings. The kitchen has a recess for a bed, and here RIobert
Bnurns first opened his eyes upon a world which
gave him little pleasure, but which remembers
him now, with sympathy and tenderness. Near
the cottage  stands "Alloway's auld haunted
kirk," with the walls well preserved, and no roof
-a picturesque edifice, from one of the windows
of which Tam O'Shanter peeped at the witches.
The wood-work has all been taken away to form
snuff-boxes, and other memorials, and it has also




252           THE OLD WORLD
been necessary to replace the tombstone of
Burns' father-the old one having been carried
off in fragments.
From the kirk we went to the monument,
which stands on a bank of the river Doon, and
is of fine white freestone. In a circular apartment, on the ground floor, are some relics of the
poet —a most touching one being the Bible in
two volumes, which Burns gave to his Highland
3Mary at their betrothal; with his name, and
masons' mark, in both volumes. The original
copy of the familiar song, "'Scots wha hae wi
Wallace bled," in the hand-writing of the poet,
with his interlineations and corrections, hangs
upon the walls in a frame. A song, of which he
modestly writes, when enclosing it to a friend"I think it has some merit."
On leaving the monument, we sat and strolled
on the lovely banks of Bonnie Doon —stood upon
the "auld brig "-quoted snatches of songs and
poems, and everything seemed to belong to
Burns, and to be a part of his life and spirit. It
was a great delight to appropriate the lines of
Halleck" I've stood beside the cottage bed,
Where the bard-peasant first drew breath;




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.            253
A straw-thatched roof above his head,
A straw-wrought couch beneath.
And I have stood beside the pile,
His monument-that tells to Heaven
The homage of earth's proudest isle,
To that bard-peasant given!"
Windermere.
The queen of the English lakes lies in graceful
beauty in full view from our hotel, and while
it can hardly challenge admiration on the score
of grandeur, it is a charming picture of quiet
loveliness, upon which we are never weary of
gazing. Although the largest of the cluster of
lakes, it is only eleven miles in length, and one
in breadth.  Its margin is occupied by gentle
eminences, which are cultivated wherever the
trees have been cleared away, and villas and
cottages gleaming amid the woods are visible
in every direction, giving a cheerful character to
the scene. It is not strange that poets should
have sought this spot, and revelled in its beauties.
Near our hotel, are the grounds of Professor
Wilson, who spent much of his palmiest timo
here, and those must indeed have been glorious
days, when Sir Walter Scott, Canning, Lockhart,
Wordsworth, Southey and Coleridge met here,




25~            Ti'TlHE OLD WORLD
to enjoy with him "brilliant cavalcades through
the woods in the mornings, and delicious boatings on the lake by moonlight."
We have taken a charming drive to Keswick,
passing Rydal, Grasmere, Thirlmere and Derwentwater lakes, with their surroundings of'mountains, fir-crested rocks, and fertile valleys.
The whole way seemed classic ground, so associated is that entire region with the bright spirits
who have dwelt there.
We visited Fox Howe, the favorite home of
the noble Dr. Arnold, where he, every year,
sought recreation and repose, from the cares of
Rugby: the knoll where Harriet Martineau is
resting after a busy and useful life, in an ivycovered cottage, with a pretty lawn, and glorious
views: Doves Nest, where Mirs. IH-emans found
peace and happiness for a time; thus writing to
a friend-" I am so delighted with this spot that
I scarcely know how I shall leave it. The situation is one of the deepest retirement; but the
bright lake before me, with all its fairy barks
and sails, glancing like'things of life' over its
blue waters, prevents the solitude from  being
overshadowed by anything like sadness."
Knab Cottage, where De Quincy once lived,




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.          255
and Hartley Coleridge died, is charmingly situated near Rydal Lake, although so near the
road, that there is but little shrubbery in front
of it, in which it differs from most of the cottages in this neighborhood. PTydal Miount is
now unoccupied, but we stood in the porch with
the word " salve," upon its mosaic pavement, and
thought of the noble poet of nature, who had so
often stood there to welcome his guests, but who
had been carried thence, never to return. Froil
the little lawn in front of the cottage, we looked
upon the view in which he delighted: Rydal
Water at the foot of the hill, Windermere, the
valley of the Rothay, and rugged Loughrigg.
Then we walked upon the two little terraces,
the favorite composing ground of the poet, and
sat upon his favorite rustic seat, thinking of the
charm he had given to all this scenery by his
writings, and of his pure, loving nature. In the
corner of Grasmere churchyard, we found his
last resting-place, with the stream within hearing, whose song was so dear to him in life. He
is surrounded by his fanily, and poor Hartley
Coleridge lies near.
Nothing could be more simple than the headstones at the graves of the Wordsworth family,




256              TET  OLD WORLD
and we were greatly touched by an inscription on
a little stone, near that of the poet:
"Here lieth the body of Thomas, the son of William
and Mary Wordsworth. He died on the Ist of December,
1812.
"Six months to six years added, he remained
Upon this sinful earth, by sin unstained.
0, blessed Lord, whose mercy then removed
A child whom every eye that looked on loved,
Support us, teach us calmly to resign
What we possessed, and now is wholly thine."
We found Keswick a manufacturing town with
a magnificent array of mountains about it, and
cheerful, pleasant streets. Linsey-woolsey stuffs,
edge-tools and pencils are made here, and the
odor of cedar attracted us to the manufactory
of the latter, where we saw the process of making' them.
Greta Hall stands on an eminence directly
opposite the-factory, and it was difficult to fix
one's mind on cedar and plumbago, with the
home of Southey so near.  It is charmingly situated on the banks of the river Greta, surrounded
by scenery whiclr combines both beauty and
grandeur, and  here the poet-laureate  passed
many "golden days " in his happy home circle,
with views from  his windows which  were of
themselves a recreation to his mind, and a feast




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.          257
to the eye. How bright and cheerful he once
made that home, his letters plainly show, and it
is sad to think of the shadow which at last -fell
upon that "boy's heart," which, as he wrote to
a friend, "is as great a blessing in carrying one
through the world, as to have a child's spirit
will be in fitting us for the next."
In the Crosthwaite church, we saw the beautiful recumbent statue of Southey, and in the
pleasant churchyard, with grand old Skiddaw in
full view, his quiet grave. Near him, sleeps his
beloved Edith, and the darling boy of ten, whose
endearing  qualities, singularly  beautiful and
gentle disposition, and wonderful aptitude for
study, were such a source of heartfelt delight to
his fond father-so much so, that on the day of
his death, he says, in a letter communicating the
sad intelligence, "You are far from  knowing
how large a portion of my hopes and happiness
will be laid in the grave with Herbert. For
years it has been my daily prayer that I might
be spared this affliction."  Yet, long before,
he had shown on whom he relied, in a letter to
the same friend: "I have a deep conviction that
whatever affliction I have ever endured, or yet
have to endure, is dispensed to me in mercy and
17




258            THE OLD WORLD
in love."  The old sexton, as he took us to this
peaceful resting-place, in that quiet churchyard,
delighted, in telling us of Southey's goodness,
and of the noble little boy whom he remembered
so well.
Liverpool, Oct. 8.
After an absence of five months, we find ourselves again beneath the pleasant roof which
sheltered us when we had just commenced our
wanderings. Now, with  grateful hearts, we
accept the same kind shelter, feeling how tenderly we have been cared for, both on the sea
and on the land. Our stay here has been diversified by a charming visit to Chester, the quaint
old town, which was a Roman military station
in the days of Julius Csesar. The wall which
entirely surrounds the city, and is broad enough
for a promenade, has been standing nearly a
thousand years, and from  it delightful views
may be obtained in all directions.
The houses are so quaint and peculiar, that
one can hardly believe the town is really in England. The sidewalks are formed by the basements of the houses, and are roofed by their
second stories. The covered ways, thus formed,
are lined with shops of every description, and




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.         259
above are the dwelling-houses.  In many instances, the upper story projects over the next
lower, so that the occupants of the fourtb floor,
on opposite sides of the Street, are brought very
near together. Then there are narrow lanes and
alleys-queer, antique houses, with small diamond-shaped panes in the sashes. Every house,
nearly, looking as if it had a history, and had
stood for centuries.
The Cathedral is a venerable structure, with
crumbling walls, and huge ancient trees, growing where some of the cloisters of the adjacent
abbey stood. It contains many ancient monuments, rudely sculptured; mosaic altar-pieces,
painted glass, and is altogether a most curious
and interesting specimen of past ages.
From Chester, we went to the lovely Vale of
Llangollen, stopping long enough at Ruabon to
walk to Wynnstay Park, the beautiful residence
of Sir Watkin Williams Wynn, with  a noble
avenue of elms, three quarters of a mile long,
leading to the house. The Vale of Llangollen,
with the river Dee flowing through it, has long
been celebrated for its beauty, and as we walked
from the cars to the Hand Hotel, we felt that
this must be, indeed, "the sweetest and quietest




260            THE OLD WORLD
spot on earth " —one in which our willing souls
would gladly stay for weeks, not days. But that
was impossible; so, during our brief sojourn we
drank in all that we could, and remember with
great delight our hurried visit to this charming
vale. The beautiful and picturesque remains of
Yale Crucis Abbey, which was founded in twelve
hundred, interested us very much. They are
covered with ivy, and shaded with lofty ash
trees, and there  are some grim  forms of
knights sculptured in gray stone, lying upon th.e
floor, which have been there for centuries, and
are very curious. It was evidently a large and
imposing structure at one time, and is lovely in
its decay.
We drove to Plas Newydd the pretty little
cottage, with antique sculptures over the door,
where the ladies of Llangollen, Lady Eleanor
Butler and Miss Sarah Ponsonby, two women of
wealth and high station, devoted their lives to
each other for nearly threescore years; and for
a quarter of a century, never spent twenty-four
hours at a time out of their happy valley. The
situation of the house is very fine, and in the
days of those elegant and cultivated ladies, the
place must have been beautiful.' Here, too, they




SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES.          261
were sought by the first characters of the age,
both as to rank and talents, whom they entertained with generous hospitality, while declaring
that neither the long summer's day, nor winter's
night, ever inspired a wish to return to the
world they had forsaken. A faithful servant
lived with them thirty years, and now, beneath
a triangular tomb, in the shadow  of the old
church, with the river Dee running merrily by,
the ladies and their devoted friend rest together,
side by side. The two friends were only separated by death a little more than two years;
Lady Eleanor Butler dying on the second of
June, eighteen hundred and twenty-nine, aged
ninety years, and Sarah Ponsonby, December
ninth, eighteen hundred and thirty-one, aged
seventy-six. Mary Carryl died in eighteen
hundred and nine, and the inscription to her
memory ends with the lines',Reared by two friends, who will her loss bemoan,
Till with her ashes, here shall rest their own."
On Saturday, the tenth of October, we embarked at Liverpool, on the noble steamship
Russia again, for our homeward voyage. We
reached Queenstown early on the morning of the




262            THrE OLD WOnLD
eleventh, and reimained there several hours. It
was a lovely day, and the harbor and surrounding
country appeared very attractive. The confusion was so great that all religious service was
omitted. This surprised us, as the English habit
is very fixed in such matters.
Irish women made their appearance on deck,
with apples, laces, and bog-wood ornaments to
sell, and drove a brisk trade. It reminded us of
what we had so often seen on the continent, but
were not quite prepared to see in Great Britain.
Our passage home was enlivened by  hard
winds and an uneasy sea most of the way, but
our splendid steamer weathered every gale, and
on Wednesday, October twenty-first, we landed
in New York. As we drove up Fifth Avenue,
after a journey of just six months, which we
shall always remember with the deepest gratitude, one of our party exclaimed enthusiastically,
"We have not seen so beautiful a street as this,
anywhere!"  To which there was no dissenting
voice, and we all felt glad and proud to say,
" This is my own —my native land."