H '1 Ii 3. A A Jn)~r 0,7 f C 4AJJ IS 9~ LUN1VEIk-1TY ovMICHIGAN] I f i. P11 EXPERIENCES OF A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU, AND ON THE ISLAND OF OAHU 1881 PALl, i88o EXPERIENCES OF A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU, AND ON THE ISLAND OF OAHU 1881 BY L. VERNON BRIGGS AUTHOR OF "The History of Shipbuilding on North River, Massachusetts" "Around Cape Horn to Honolulu on the Bark 'Amy Turner' 1880" 1926 DAVID D. NICKERSON COMPANY BOSTON Copyright, 9z26 BY L. VERNON BRIGGS All rights reserved PRINTED BY C. H. SIMONDS CO. BOSTON, MASS., U. S. A. e icateb TO ALL THE FRIENDS WHO WERE SO KIND TO ME WHEN AS A BOY I VISITED HONOLULU AND ESPECIALLY TO HATTIE M. DAMON WITHOUT WHOSE DEVOTED CARE MY CAREER WOULD THERE HAVE ENDED CONTENTS CHAPTER I PAGE ARRIVAL IN HONOLULU-LIFE IN HONOLULU IN I88 — QUEEN'S HOSPITAL-BECOMES DR. MCGREW'S ASSISTANT-APPOINTED DEPUTY VACCINATING OFFICER FOR THE ISLAND OF OAHU-OUTBREAK OF SMALLPOX -TALKS WITH DR. N. B. EMERSON-KING KALAKAUA-KAWAIAHAO CHURCH-LETTER FROM MARSHAL W. C. PARKE...... CHAPTER II MRS. H. A. P. CARTER-START ON VACCINATING TRIPKAHAWAI, THE CONSTABLE-CHARLES DWIGHT, GUIDE AND INTERPRETER-RIDE DOWN THE PALI — WAIMANALO-MR. JOHN CUMMINS —FRIGHTENED NATIVES —FRACTIOUS HORSE-KAILUA-KAN EOH EHEEIA-LA PLACE AND THE ROMAN CATHOLIC CHURCH-MR. ROSE —MR. MCKEAGUE-AAHUIMANU-KAHALUU-WAIKANE-HAKIPUU.. 27 CHAPTER III KUALOA-GEORGE CARTER-KAAAWA-NATIVE COOKING -KAHANA, A BEAUTIFUL BAY —HAUULA, AN EXCELLENT BATHING BEACH-PUNALUU-KALUANUISHARKS —LAIE MALOO-LAIE WAI-MORMON SETTLEMENTS-MR. CLOUGH-KAHUKU-ANCIENT LEGEND-KUKUI TREES-WAIALEE-WAIMEA-A NATIVE BIRTH —KAWAILOA-EMERSON'S ENTERPRISE RANCH-WAIALUA. 44 vii viii CONTENTS CHAPTER IV PAGE NARROW ESCAPE ROUNDING KAENA POINT-MAKUAHIKILLOO-NAKEAU -KAMAILE-WAIANAE — MR. JULIUS RICHARDSON - NANAKULI - EWA - THE HULA-KALUA-HONOULIULI RANCH-WILD CATTLE —HOGS —HORSES-WAI KELE-WAIPIO —WIAWA -MANAUA-WAIAU-WAI MALU —KALAUOA-AIEA — HALAWA —MOANALUA-KAI IHI-FINISH HORSEBACK RIDE OF 150 MILES-VACCINATED 802 PERSONS IN EIGHT DAYS...... 57 CHAPTER V SECOND VACCINATION TRIP-DESCENT OF PALI AT NIGHT -A GRUESOME FIND-UNHAPPY SOUTH SEA ISLANDERS-UNSANITARY QUARTERS OF THE GILBERT ISLANDERS-MULE TAKES FRENCH LEAVE —LIFE IN DANGER —A WEIRD EXPERIENCE-BEAUTIFUL SHELLS -CRAMPS FROM EATING COCOANUTS AND THEIR MILK -END OF SECOND TRIP-APPOINTED GOVERNMENT PHYSICIAN TO DISTRICT OF KONA, HAWAII-MR. JOSEPH 0. CARTER-VACCINATED OVER I000 PERSONS TO DATE, JANUARY 24-LETTERS FROM HON. H. A. P. CARTER-SCORPION —HON. S. M. DAMON-TAKEN SUDDENLY ILL AT MR. DAMON'S HOUSE... 68 CHAPTER VI SERIOUS ILLNESS AND RECOVERY-WONDERFUL CARE AND DEVOTION BY THE DAMONS-NATIVE DRESS AND HABITS-SMALLPOX A SERIOUS MENACE-FATHER DAMON-HABITS OF WHITE MAN FATAL TO MANY NATIVES-SERIOUSLY ILL AGAIN-FRIENDS SHOW HAWAIIAN HOSPITALITY AND DEVOTION DURING ILLNESS-LETTERS HOME-SHIPS IN PORT-CASUALTIES TO AMERICAN VESSELS-HORSEBACK RIDING AGAINWAIKIKI-SURF RIDING-DIAMOND HEAD-CHASED BY A BULL-A SAD ACCIDENT-LETTERS FROM HOME (C CONTENTS ix CHAPTER VII PAGE DR. MCGREW'S ASSISTANT AGAIN-THE ROYAL FAMILYPRINCESS RUTH TAKEN ILL IN CHURCH-UNUSUAL TREATMENT-PREPARING TO LEAVE THESE BEAUTIFUL ISLANDS-LAST RIDE BEFORE LEAVING-SAIL FOR SAN FRANCISCO ON SS. CITY OF SYDNEY-KALUA APPEARS AT HOUR OF SAILING-STORMY WEATHER-ARRIVAL SAN FRANCISCO WITH MANY HONOLULU FRIENDS-MILLS SEMINARY, BROOKLYN-MOTHER AND SISTER ARRIVE AND JOIN PARTY CONSISTING OF MRS. DAMON, MRS. H. A. P. CARTER AND OTHERS AT GRAND HOTEL-SAN RAFAEL-RESULTS OF VACCINATING ON OAHU....... 126 CHAPTER VIII KALUA.......... 15 CHAPTER IX GUEST OF HAWAIIAN MINISTER PLENIPOTENTIARY, WASHINGTON, D. C.-JOHN W. LOGAN, JR.-PRESIDENT ARTHUR-INAUGURATION PRESIDENT CLEVELAND-GENERALS SLOCUM, ORDWAY, TERRY, SHERIDAN, HANCOCK-LINCOLN'S INAUGURATIONPRESIDENT CLEVELAND'S MESSAGE —FIREWORKS — INAUGURAL BALL.......184 CHAPTER X MEMORIES-LILIUOKALANI-PRINCESS RUTH KEELIKOLANI-QUEEN EMMA-FATHER DAMON-HON. SAMUEL M. DAMON-FIRST RAILROAD IN OAHU-HON. H. A. P. CARTER-DR. JOHN S. McGREW-HON. JAMES M. COMLEY-MISS CHARLOTTE A. CARTER. 192 x CONTENTS ADDENDA PAG2 RECORDS OF VACCINATIONS KEPT DURING TRIPS AROUND ISLAND OF OAHU, JANUARY 3 TO 21, I88i, BY L. VERNON BRIGGS, DEPUTY VACCINATION OFFICER. 225 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS PAGE PALI, I880....... Frontispiece RESIDENCE OF DR. JNO. S. MCGREw, HONOLULU, H. I., I881, WITH HIS OFFICE ON THE LEFT, WHERE DR. BRIGGS ASSISTED....... 2 QUEEN'S HOSPITAL, HONOLULU, 1880.... 9 AVENUE AT QUEEN'S HOSPITAL, I88o.... 9 MAP OF THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS (text)....II HONOLULU FROM THE REEF, I880, AND THE EXTINCT CRATER, PUNCHBOWL...... 14 LETTER FROM N. B. EMERSON, M.D. (text)...17 DAVID KALAKAUA, i880, KING OF HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 22 LETTER OF MARSHAL PARKE TO THE POLICE OF OAHU. 25 VIEW FROM THE TOP OF THE PALI, I88I, KANEOHE IN THE DISTANCE........ 30 LETTER OF INTRODUCTION (text)..... 35 WATAMANALO FROM THE NORTH, I88I.... 36 NATIVE GRASS HOUSE....... 44 OAHU (text). 53 JUDGE H. A. WIDEMANN AND HIS DAUGHTER, MINNA, 1881......... WAIAMANALO FROM THE EAST, 1881 CERTIFICATE OF VACCINATION WAIANAE, 188.... A PROCLAMATION BY N. B. EMERSON, M.D. (text) HON. H. A. P. CARTER, I880. LETTER TO DR. WINEBERG. LETTER TO THE HON. W. F. MARTIN HAWAIIAN WOMEN RIDERS. THE RESIDENCE OF THE HON. SAMUEL M. DA] 58 68 * 7 79 8I 84 86 88 96 MON, NUUANU AVENUE, HONOLULU, I88I; MRS. DAMON, MAY AND DOUGLAS.. xi 99 xii LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS PAGE MRS. JOSEPH 0. CARTER..... 104 MR. JOSEPH 0. CARTER..... 104 THE "MORNING STAR....... 107 NUUANU AVENUE, 1880....... 9 DIAMOND HEAD, OAHU, 1880... 119 L. VERNON BRIGGS, APRIL 19, I88I... 121 LLOYD BRIGGS, ESQ........ 124 PERMIT SIGNED BY E. R. HENDRY. 132 HONOLULU HARBOR, I88I..... 134 MRS. S. M. DAMON, I88I...... 147 HON. S. M. DAMON, I88I...... 147 KALUA, 1884. I54 KALUA'S GRAVE, HANOVER, MASSACHUSETTS... 78 MR. AND MRS. W. H. LEWERS AND TIEIR CIIL.DREN, WILLIAM H. AND HATTIE..... 82 ORDER OF FUNERAL PROCESSION (text)... 201-02 QUEEN EMMA KALELEONALANI, 88.... 204 DR. JNO. S. MCGREW, 1880...... 2I6 THEATRE PROGRAM, ROYAL HAWAIIAN THEATRE, 1880. 220 CHAPTER I ARRIVAL IN HONOLUIU -LIFE IN HONOLULU IN I88o — QUEEN'S HOSPITAL —BECOMES DR. MCGREW'S ASSISTANT —APPOINTED DEPUTY VACCINATING OFFICER FOR THE ISLAND OF OAHU —UTBREAK OF SMALLPOXTALKS WITH DR. N. B. EMERSON-KING KALAKAUA -KAWAIAHAO CHURCH-LETTER FROM MARSHAL W. C. PARKE IN my book "A Voyage Around Cape Horn in the Amy Turner," I have told of the circumstances which led to my trip to the Hawaiian Islands in 1880, and have described the voyage and my first impressions of Honolulu and its hospitable inhabitants. To sum up: I had been obliged to give up my studies in Boston at the age of 16, on account of serious hemorrhages from the lungs, probably brought on by overwork, and had been ordered for a long sea-voyage, a not unusual prescription in such cases in those days. The trip around the Horn was an adventurous and stormy one, but in spite of this my health was better on my arrival in Honolulu than it had been when I left home. My good friend Captain Newell of the bark "Amy Turner" was well known and liked in Honolulu, and through his introductions and those I had from my father's business acquaintances, I had, by the end of the first month of my stay, made many 1 2 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU friends among the families then prominent in the Islands. My previous book tells something of these delightful people, and the present volume takes up my journal and letters where I then left off, on Christmas day, i880, less than a month after my arrival. December 25.-This Christmas morning, after having lain awake the best part of the night listening to the soft notes of the sweet native songs sung by Oli boys and Oli girls, I awoke with a toothache, so I sought out the principal dentist here, Dr. J. M. Whitney, whose office is in Brewer's Block, on the corner of Hotel and Fort Streets. At about ten o'clock, while I was sitting in the dentist's chair and Dr. Whitney was at work on my teeth, Dr. Nathaniel B. Emerson appeared and asked me if I could qualify before the Board of Health to act as a vaccinating officer and later as Government Physician in the Islands. I told him that I should have to consult Dr. McGrew at whose office I am now working daily, and that I would send him my answer in the afternoon. As soon as I left the dentist's, I went to Dr. McGrew's. He assured me that, judging from my work as his assistant as well as from my progress in the study of medicine before I left Boston, which I had been continuing with him, I should be able, with very little further preparation, to pass the examination of the Board of Health. He suggested that I come to him for three nights next week to prepare for the examination, and to this kind proposal I readily agreed. RESIDENCE OF DR. JNO. S. MCGREW, HONOLULU, H. I., I881, WITH HIS OFFICE ON THE LEFT, WHERE DR. BRIGGS ASSISTED SMALLPOX, 1853 3 It is no wonder that the Government feels obliged to do everything in its power to stem the tide of smallpox which is spreading in the Islands, for the history of the Sandwich Islands shows clearly that no worse enemy has ever been known here. The first recorded case of smallpox is said to have arrived off the port of Honolulu in February, 1853, in the ship "Charles Mallory," and the crew were brought ashore and quarantined, according to the ideas of quarantine then prevailing, in a house at Kapiolani Park. Dr. Hoffman watched them and attended the sick man, who was placed in a large grass house on the Reef, which is cut off from the mainland at high tide, near the present quarantine station. But no one was willing to nurse the poor creature, so he was alone for the greater part of his illness, except that a member of the Board of Health visited him each morning and prepared his food. He recovered and sailed with his vessel, and the house and its contents were immediately burned. No new cases appeared in Honolulu until, to the surprise of everyone, on the I3th of May, two native women living on Mauna Kea Street were found to be ill with the dread disease. It was supposed that these women had contracted smallpox from washing clothing sent ashore from an infected ship. No one could be found to pick them up and carry them in a wagon to the hospital which had been fitted up on Queen Street, so the Marshal, Hon. William C. Parke, had to perform this dangerous task himself. By the 3rd of June cases were reported from every part of Honolulu. 4 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU There had been little vaccination among the natives, and they died like sheep. The first month there were 412 cases, and during July and August the disease raged with terrible violence over the entire island. Mr. G. W. Bates, writing the following year of his experiences at this time, says that on returning to the little village of Kawaihae after an absence, he found the place almost desolated by smallpox. Out of a population of about 50, 23 had "gone to the graves of their fathers." The report of the Commissioners of Public Health for the week ending July 22, 1853, says: "The number of new cases of smallpox which have been reported during the past week for the Island of Oahu is 626, deaths reported, 216; from other islands, new cases 40, deaths 19. Total number of cases reported to date, 2342; total number of deaths reported, 8o8." For the week ending July 28, "in Oahu, 480 new cases. Deaths reported in the same time, 219. The total number of burials under the direction of the Commissioners, by the police and others, in Honolulu and vicinity, since June 26, is 663." Up to September 9, dating from June 26, there were 5049 cases on Oahu; total deaths, i805. Anderson, in his "'History of the Sandwich Islands Mission," says: "Mr. Bishop, who encountered every risk to save his people from the smallpox which invaded the Islands in 1853, reports the deaths at Ewa of 1200 out of a population of 2800. Nearly one half of the 8oo church members were victims of the pestilence. From morn to night the SMALLPOX, 1853 5 missionary visited the sick and dying, lying helpless on the ground, destitute of every comfort. It was difficult to find persons to bury the dead, except a few who would undertake the task for a large reward. The body was rolled, in its cloths and mats, without ceremony, into a grave that was dug near by; and for three months no funerals, no mourners, no one near the place except the grave-diggers. Many of them contracted the disease." The Board of Health at that time permitted vessels to leave Honolulu and carry the disease to other islands. Public meetings were held and the removal of the Ministers of Finance and Public Instruction were demanded. Few even of those who had recovered from the disease, would assist in the burial of the dead, until the Government fined or imprisoned every recovered person who refused to assist. Six men, who had taken part in a riot the year before and were prisoners in the Fort, were given their liberty on condition that they would help bury the dead. The helpers were so few that it was often midnight before the daily toll of 40 or 50 bodies were buried. Owing to the difficulty of fumigating the grass houses, the Fire Department were instructed to burn them down when infected. As the Whaling Fleet, numbering from 2000 to 3000 men, was due in the fall, every measure was taken to purify the town. There being no way of obtaining bovine virus, vaccination, which was made obligatory, was accomplished by using the virus from pustules of the smallpox patient. This resulted in the spread of leprosy and syphilis. 6 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU With this history still in their minds, it is no wonder that it is difficult to obtain the consent of the natives to vaccination, even thirty years afterwards. For this reason, I understand I am to have officers of the law with me to round up the people for vaccination. December 26.-Sunuday. This morning I went to a children's entertainment at the Bethel Church; I heard Father Damon speak and the children sing carols. The church was built in 1833, and Father Damon has been Chaplain since 1842. It still seems strange to me here, but so beautiful! The houses are one story high-seldom two storieswith roofs that reach over the sides of the street. There are dogs everywhere-a wretched sight!-no good ones, some horribly crippled. The natives lie about, a great many of them with garlands of the most brilliant flowers around their hats, hanging loosely from their necks or wound about their ankles; some with scarcely any clothing on, others with overalls or simple frocks, or with pieces of leather or cloth around their waists. The native women-all I have seenwear the same bright calico, two pieces sewed together, with holes cut in the sides through which they pass their arms; and they hold their dresses 'way up when they walk! These are the people you see about the streets; there are also more cultivated natives who dress and talk like white people and who are much slenderer and more delicately formed than the common people.-But there are no "common" people here EXPENSE OF LIVING 7 in the sense in which we use the phrase at home. The people of this sunny clime have a natural love of beauty; they are chivalrous and gentle in their manner and always hospitable to the stranger. Walking along in the lower part of the town, all one hears is "Wike wike," "Kaka" "Nau kolika" and other soft, musical sounds of their language. Their manner of greeting when they meet is to press the ends of their noses together, or to rub noses.-It is even claimed that the flatness of the nose is caused by this salutation! After church I went to a birthday dinner party at Mr. Robert Lewers', given in honor of his daughter Hattie's eleventh birthday; and I met there a Mr. Mudge, of Hancock Street, Boston. December 7..-The bark "John C. Spreckles" arrived today, 30 days from San Francisco, and I got letters from home dated November 15. I answered them immediately, for the barkentine "Jane Falkland" is about to sail. I lunched at Marshal Parke's, and then called on Miss Thurston, from Newburyport, whom I met several days ago. A word about the expense of living.-There are so many wild cattle in these islands, especially on Hawaii, that meat is only 2 cents a pound. That, with rice and the many fruits and vegetables raised here, are the only cheap foods. Even sugar, which is grown on the Islands, is 15 cents a pound. Clothing is very expensive; boots and shoes are $1o a pair. Good board, without room, can be had on Hawaii, I am told, 8 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU for $5 a week, but the lowest in Honolulu is $io a week. All sorts of money are used here, including English sovereigns, French francs, Italian lire and Russian rubles in gold; besides, in silver, French and Belgian francs, Italian lire, Mexican, Chilian and Peruvian dollars. But the most commonly used and acceptable money is that of the United States. There is very little Hawaiian money in circulation. December 28.-Young Mr. Bishop called today, and I made a professional call upon Mr. Anton George's daughter. I lunched at Marshal Parke's, and in the evening made two calls-on Mrs. Joshua Dickson and on Dr. Hutchinson. The latter has promised to show me Queen's Hospital. The ocean is very rough outside the reef and the Inter-Island Steamer can not leave her wharf today. The northeast trade winds are constant 250 days out of the year, but the great mountain ridge which forms the backbone of Oahu effectually shelters Honolulu, except at one point where the deep cleft in the ridge, known as the Pali, acts as a funnel. This great gap is situated just above the city at the head of the Nuuanu Valley, and through it refreshing breezes sweep down the valley and into the town. The upper part of this valley receives the rain from the north, and amid its delightful greenery are situated picturesque groups of native houses, thatched and walled with grass. QUEEN 'S HOSPITAL HONOLUJLU, i88o AVENUE AT QUEEN 'S HOSPITAL, x88o QUEEN'S HOSPITAL 9 December 29. —After my work at Dr. McGrew's this morning I went for a long horseback ride, and then Dr. Hutchinson took me to visit Queen's Hospital, of all the institutions in Honolulu the one to be most commended. It was opened as a free hospital in 1859, by public subscription, headed by the King and Queen. A few months later, in 1860, it moved into its present building, which was erected through the efforts of Kamehameha IV and named in honor of his consort, the present Queen Emma. Dr. William Hillebrand was its first superintendent. It is the only general hospital in Honolulu. The stone building is situated at the foot of Punch Bowl Hill and is approached by an avenue of the most magnificent royal palm trees I have ever seen. There are 90 beds in the hospital and there are 8 trained nurses, who are paid $40 a month each. The patients receive every comfort and attention; natives are taken care of free and others pay according to their means. There are now 80 patients in the hospital, of whom 52 are Hawaiians and 28 foreigners; 22 are paying patients. At the dispensary connected with the hospital there were 2702 calls in the last quarter, of which I Io were from new patients. I am assisting Dr. McGrew with his operations, and he explains his cases very carefully to me. I help with his practice and am always at his office during office hours. One of the patients with whose treatment I am assisting Dr. McGrew is Mrs. Sanford B. Dole, formerly Anna Prentiss Cate, who was born in 10 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU Castine, Maine, in 1841. [Later Mrs. Dole held the position of "First Lady of Hawaii" for I i years, her husband being the first President of the Republic.] Dr. McGrew is the physician and surgeon in Honolulu, as prominent here as Dr. Bowditch is in his specialty at home. It is a great privilege to have the opportunity to work with him. December 3o.-The steamer arrived today with letters from home. The whole city seems like a circus when a steamer comes in. The band turns out, all the expresses and other vehicles rush to the wharves, the native boys make ready to dive for coins, and when any prominent residents are returning flags fly from the stores and houses. At the wharves all is pandemonium, increased by the chatter of the natives. I vaccinated three persons at Dr. McGrew's office this morning and took a long horseback ride with the doctor afterwards, and I had both lunch and dinner with him, as I frequently do nowadays. We have been having a long rainy spell. The streets of Honolulu are dusty in dry weather, but become very sloppy and muddy after one day's rain. They are not well built and do not shed the water, so that after several days' rain they are a sea of mud. In November the rainfall was 9.38 inches, and it has been raining much of the time since my arrival, so the streets are perfect rivers. Carriage stands are licensed in different parts of the city; there are no street cars or other mode of con 11 12 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU veyance except by horseback. Most of the teaming is done by drays, of which about 50o have licenses. They and the expresses and carriages, of which there are about 200, are mostly driven by natives. Fort Street is the main business street and King Street the next in importance, both leading away from the water and intersected by narrow, crooked cross streets. Cricket is the favorite game here and most of the prominent firms are represented on the cricket elevens. There are trotting races every Saturday afternoon at Kapiolani Park. Among the favorite horses are "Little Giant," "Dolly Varden" and "Pumpkin Seed." There are no beggars and no public paupers, except the insane, on Oahu. The convicts and Reform School boys contribute to their own support by their labor. For the last few days I have not been feeling quite so well as usual, probably on account of the wet weather and the extra work. I have been working late nights with Dr. McGrew, preparing for my examination by the Board of Health. For three nights after Christmas we worked until two in the morning and once until four, but now the examination, an oral one, before Dr. Emerson and the Board of Health, is over, and I think that I have passed. December 3j.-Today I vaccinated, as usual every day, in Dr. McGrew's office; and later, while again in the dentist's chair, I received my appointment from the Hawaiian Government as Deputy Vaccinating RECENT SMALLPOX EPIDEMIC 13 Officer for the Island of Oahu, at $4 a day and expenses. This will, of course, change all my plans. I am to take a guide, an interpreter and a constable and vaccinate all the persons on the Island of Oahu not previously vaccinated. When this work is done, if I am to have a second appointment, I shall try for the district of South Kona, Hawaii. I can vaccinate loo persons in four hours, easily, and the rest of the day I shall have to myself. Section 311 of the Civil Code provides that the father or mother of every child shall, within eight days after its birth, or in the event of their death whoever has charge of the child, take such child to the vaccinating officer for the purpose of being vaccinated, and again in eight days for the purpose of ascertaining by inspection the result of such operation. If successful, the vaccinating officer shall present a certificate to the person in charge of the child stating that it has been successfully vaccinated. A fine of $5 is imposed for failure to do this. Last fall there was an epidemic of smallpox in San Francisco and, fearing that it might be brought to the Islands, as early as October 4th the President of the Board of Health called attention to the subject of vaccination, which had been neglected for some years; and in view of the danger of propagating leprous or syphilitic disease, it was determined to rely on bovine virus, which was accordingly ordered from the United States. A newspaper issued the day after I arrived, Dec. 3, I880, stated that in San Francisco there were 14 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU eight cases of smallpox in the Baldwin and six in the Palace Hotel, brought there by Chinese servants. On December i, i88o, Dr. N. B. Emerson was appointed Vaccinating Officer for the Island of Oahu. On the 4th, a man was taken from the steamer "Australia" (which vessel had brought the news of the epidemic in San Francisco) to Queen's Hospital, found to have smallpox and removed to the Smallpox Hospital on the Reef. On the ioth, a man named White, who had been a steerage passenger on the "Australia," was found in the street with the disease. San Francisco was then declared an infected port, and all persons arriving from there were quarantined. On December 20, the German steamer "Cassandra" arrived, 23 days from Canton, and reported a clean bill of health. She was permitted to land 641 passengers, but during the night of December 22, a Chinaman having smallpox was secretly landed from this vessel; he was discovered by the police on the premises of Aswan, on Nuuanu Street, on Christmas night, and was at once sent to the Smallpox Hospital and the vessel quarantined for 16 days. with 39o people still aboard her. The Smallpox Hospital is situated on a reef across the Harbor. The road to it leads for about half a mile over a rough coral reef which is under water at high tide. The first building is an old one, and in it is the convalescent ward, in charge of Miss Crowninberg, a bright and intelligent young woman. The sick wards are in separate cottages, numbering from HONOLULU FROM THE REEF, i88o, AND THE EXTINCT CRATER, PUNCHBOWL SMALLPOX EPIDEMIC 15 I to 9. The buildings are clean and kept in good order. The natives prefer to lie on the floor, but cots are provided for foreigners. The bodies of those who die are buried on the reef, which has on its surface about 3'2 feet of sand. Perforations are made in the bottoms of the boxes which serve for coffins, and the animalculae from the coral reef soon consume all but the bones, which they leave clean and white. The disease is now spreading rapidly through the Island of Oahu, and has extended to ports in other islands, so strenuous measures are necessary. Any cases that I discover on my trip, either of smallpox or leprosy, I am to send back here to be segregated and treated. I sent some time ago to Codman & Shurtleff of Boston for my animal virus, propagated at their own stables from the lymph of the "Beaugency stock," imported by themselves especially for this purpose. ]t is sent in strong, air-tight, sealed packages. I use a point for each person, first employing a scarifying vaccinator of polished steel with several nickel-plated points, when I am where it is possible to have it properly cleansed after each vaccination. When this is not possible, I use only the ivory point on which the vaccine comes, to avoid all risk of spreading other diseases. I sent for these points for my own use at Lr. McGrew's office, before I received my appointment. I am now 17 years of age. The appointment reads as follows: 16 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU Honolulu, Dec. 31, I88o. Mr. L. V. Briggs Sir: I am authorized by His Ex. the Minister of the Interior to appoint you as a deputy vaccinating officer on the Island of Oahu. You will be allowed your expenses and four dollars ($4.00oo) per day while actually engaged in the service of the Board of Health. You will please keep an accurate account of your expenses, and a record of the name, sex, age, date and residence of all whom you may vaccinate. You will only vaccinate those who have not previously been vaccinated. You will proceed first to Waimanalo in Koolaupoko to the plantation of Mr. John Cummings' to whom you have a letter of introduction, where you will proceed to vaccinate all who may present themselves who are not previously vaccinated. Thence to Kaneohe where no doubt Mr. Rose Supt of Mr. Harris's plantation will doubtless be glad to receive you. Thence on to some convenient station and so on till you reach Waialua. Inquire for the chief men, as you go along and make arrangements from day to day in advance as to where you will make your head quarters the next day. The constable, Kahawau who will accompany you, will be able to give you all desired information about places, people etc. See that he sends a messenger or messengers out each day to make public by proclamation etc. your location for the day etc. Arrange your time if possible, so that you will be at the same place again in just eight days from the time of the first visit, for the purpose of inspecting and recording the result of the previous vaccination and revaccinating if necessary, and give notice to each person vaccinated to meet you at such place on the 8th day from the time of vaccination. LETTER ROM N. B. EMERSON, M.D. 17 64C r-~UN:-~lL -- 3 ~y d~~ G — f3LC oP4.~ ~~'~I-FS-~a i~ 4rId~~~~U -~(~7~~/z~u~~~~ ~~~~,e~~~R~uR;/"-i-~ """""""""""""""( 7c- //bI~d-r "-s ~~ '~~L~ 4_-Z~ ~~ft 18 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU 4^c tO At^-^ jOt^ / ae^Z^ -. 1(AyjH v As #,, cAiAf* <y /' As7-, 4 -^^^^^7 i a ED Abed 2ie ef ~c,c, -. L1crrFC Fc /-he y _ /1u~ L~~AAGCI B 4~ ^^r~^0 ^^6d ^ ^S9cz^^^ ~t~vUt ^^C^aat~ ^^^^^y ^, ^-t u^o r/uL^ ^r ^^c y^ ^ LETTER FlROM N. B. EMERSON, M.D. 19 ~-v-~t-.~~ a. 4~ Z ~~b~~~ z~k, ~ c~~~iYie v4t 20 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU The district of Waialua will be vaccinated by S. N. Emerson, Esq. Confer with him and assist if necessary. Passinng Waialua you will vaccinate in the district of Waianae, and that completed in Ewa. Thence you will return to Honolulu and report. You will issue to each person successfully vaccinated a certificate as will be hereafter described. N. B. EMERSON, M. D. Vaccinating Officer for Island of Oahu. Approved H. A. P. CARTER. Pres. Bd of Health. DR. N. B. EMERSON2 21 I have enjoyed my talks with Dr. Emerson very much. He fought in our Civil War and is a great admirer of General Grant. He considers the General a very great man; and he says that though Grant had not the courtly presence of Washington nor the commanding physique of Scott, his strong character was plainly marked in his countenance and the attitude of his body showed much force. He had great endurance and could always recuperate, when tired, by sleeping, often under circumstances where sleep would have been impossible for most men, and his pulse was an even beat not easily disturbed. When Dr. Emerson knew him best, at 42 years of age, Grant had an erect figure, was five feet nine inches in height and weighed i6o pounds. His chief characteristic was stubbornness in carrying out his purpose. His ancestry was Scotch and the clan whose name he bore were proud to claim him as one of them. Their war cry is "Stand fast!" Dr. Emerson is much interested in the study of leprosy and in other scientific work, and is an authority on the flora and fausza of the Islands. He studied for three years at the Harvard Medical School and for three years at the College of Physicians and Surgeons in New York, and had another three years practicing in Bellevue Hospital. I was introduced today to the Ex-Minister of Finance. Father gave me letters of introduction, which he thought might be helpful, to one Mr. Shipley and Mr. T. C. Severance, whom he knew-perhaps served 22 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU with them in the Portsmouth, N. H., Navy Yard when he was engineer there. When I arrived, however, Mr. Severance had left the Islands for California and Mr. Shipley had died in Honolulu about December i. The King, David Kalakaua, has been absent from Oahu except for about two days of the time I have been here. He is 50 years old and was elected King in 1874, the family of Kamehamehas having become extinct in the male line with Kamehameha V. Although reigning, Kalakaua has not yet been crowned, but great preparations are already being made for his coronation, which is to take place after he has made a trip around the world. My first introduction to King Kalakaua was on January 5, 1875, when I was i I years old. My father, sister and I were then presented to him at a reception he held in the gallery of the Boston & Providence R.R. station in Park Sq., Boston. I am fortunate in having so many kind friends who invite me to their homes. The restaurants are few and the meals very poor though inexpensive, varying in price from 25 cents to 50 cents. The principal hotel, established in 1872 by the Government, is the Royal Hawaiian Hotel, of which Allan Herbert is proprietor. Its charges are $3 a day or $1 7.50 a week; but one does not fare so well here as at one of the good private boarding houses, some of which are exceedingly well-kept, at $3 a week for room and $8 for board. The hotel is not popular, with its Chinese servants, rather close rooms, insufficient lighting and poor food, and the mosquitoes are particularly bad there. The natives DAVID KALAKAUA, 1880, KING OF HAWXAIIAN ISLANDS COFFEE PLANTATION 23 claim that the first mosquitoes were brought from New England by the first missionary ships in the early '30's, but they are certainly larger, sing louder and have a more venomous sting than any I have ever seen at home. Nowhere in the world is the coffee so delicious as it is here. It is apparently not indigenous. Old residents tell me that the first coffee plantation was laid out in the Manoa Valley, prior to I827, side by side with the first sugar plantation, by John Wilkinson, a practical gardener whom General Boki brought from England and who settled on land owned by his patron. The first coffee plants are said to have been brought to the Islands from Rio Janeiro, by Lord Byron, in the "Blonde." This evening being New Year's Eve, I was again serenaded by the Oli Boys, who sang delightfully their native songs: "Lei Lehua," "Aina Hau," "A/hi Wela," "Malanaianu," "Pili Aoao" and, as usual, "4Aloha Oe." January i.-I dined today with Mr. Joseph 0. Carter. He and Mr. H. A. P. Carter, Minister of the Interior, are brothers. Among Mr. Joseph 0. Carter's many other offices (see "Amy Turner," page 136), he is Japanese Consul here. January 2.-I went to the Bethel Church this Sunday morning and in the evening I took Miss Jennie Robertson to the Fort Street Church. The following 24 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU churches are holding services here: the Seamen's Bethel, Rev. Samuel C. Damon, Chaplain; the Fort Street Church, Rev. W. Frear, Pastor; St. Andrew's Cathedral (Church of England), Rt. Rev. the Bishop of Honolulu, services in both English and Hawaiian; Kawaiahao Church, on King Street, above the Palace, Rev. H. H. Parker, Pastor, all services in Hawaiian; Kaumakapili Church, Rev. M. Kuaea, Pastor; Beretania Church, near Nuuanu Avenue, all services in Hawaiian; and the Roman Catholic Church on Fort Street, Rt. Rev. Bishop Maigret. Kawaiahao Church was founded by the Rev. Mr. Bingham, who was also its chief architect. Its foundations were laid in I839 and it was many years in building. It was built of coral stone, hewn into large cubical blocks, which were carried from the reefs on the backs of natives. It covers an area of 144 by 78 feet. The expenses were defrayed by contributions from the chiefs and other natives, and the labor was almost entirely performed by natives. This church is built on the spot where the missionaries preached their first sermons and where, later, their first grass church was erected. Within a year after their arrival on the little brig "Thaddeus," which sailed from Boston on October 23, I8I9, a frame house, built in Boston, was brought around the Horn in sections, in the hold of a ship, to house them. Next to this house they put up a one-story, coral-walled building, which sheltered a diminutive printing press, brought in the same ship, and on this press, the first 64 aV.6 lot.t. p e 0h 101 LETTER OF MARSHAL PARKE TO THE POLICE OF OAHU I LETTER FROM MARSHAL W. C. PARKE 25 ever set up in this part of the world, were printed the first missionary tracts and, later, the first magazine and newspaper in the Hawaiian Islands, the whole broad Pacific, or in our own country west of the Missouri River. Afterward this press was sent to Portland, Oregon, and printed the first paper on the Pacific Coast. The first Romish mission was established in the year 1827 by the Rev. John A. Bachelot, a Jesuit, who was appointed Apostolic Prefect by Pope Leo XII. The interest of the natives was much excited by the new religion, and they found the Popish doctrines of the veneration of holy relics, the use of images, fasts and feasts strikingly like their previous idolatry. Kaahumanu, the Queen, is quoted as saying, "Their worship is like that we have forsaken." I have finished my arrangements with Dr. Emerson and am busy preparing to start on my vaccination trip. Marshal Parke has given me a letter written in the Hawaiian language (see illustration page 25) which, being translated, reads as follows: Marshal's Office, Jan. I, I881. To all the Police of the Island of Oahu. Greeting to all: The bearer of this document, Mr. Briggs, has been appointed by the Government to circuit the Island of Oahu and vaccinate the whole population. Therefore you are ordered to send out notifications. With thanks, W. C. PARKE, Marshal. 26 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU No one is allowed to practice medicine in these islands without a license or commission from the Government. Natives practicing their own cults, as well as the Chinese, are frequently fined $50 and costs, or are sent to jail. In my case, my appointment takes the place of a commission. CHAPTER II MRS. H. A. P. CARTER-START ON VACCINATING TRIPKAHAWAI, THE CONSTABLE —CHARLES DWIGHT, GUIDE AND INTERPRETER-RIDE DOWN THE PALI-WAIMANALO —MR. JOHN CUMMINS-FRIGHTENED NATIVESFRACTIOUS HORSE-KAILUA-KANEOHE-HEEIA-LA PLACE AND THE ROMAN CATHOLIC CHURCH-MR. ROSE-MR. MCKEAGUE-AAHUIMANU-KAHALUUWAIKANE-HAKIPUU January 3.-Frightful weather today. Before starting out on my vaccination trip this morning I received the following very kind letter from Mrs. H. A. P. Carter, who had promised to lend me a horse for my expedition: Honolulu, Jan. 2, I881. Dear Friend Mr. Briggs, When you said the other evening that you would have to pay $2 a day for a horse, I supposed it was from your own pocket, and would gladly save you the expense by lending you "Babi Acre." Georgie has had him shod this morning, but says you think he is too small. He is perfectly able for the journey, and it is one we have tried him with very often. Still, if you do not want him, it is all I have to offer. "Pilot" is old and weak, and is only fit for short rides-and he does not belong to me; "Spot" is altogether too fractious; only the most expert can ride him and he would make you a great deal of trouble, beside the liability to an accident; and your 27 28 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU friends would feel that we were responsible for giving you so unmanageable a horse. Hoping that you will have a satisfactory trip and enjoy the lovely scenery, I remain, Your true friend, AUGUSTA CARTER. At io o'clock this morning, against a driving rain and heavy northeast gale, I set out on horseback for Waimanalo, clad in a rubber coat and with a roll of my belongings attached to the saddle behind me, accompanied by Charles Dwight, a very bright, active young half-caste, about 28 years of age, who is to act as interpreter. The constable, Kahawai, was detained by Dr. Emerson at the last moment, as it was found that there was not enough vaccine virus available to vaccinate more than Ioo persons and Dr. Emerson dispatched the constable to some point where he knew there was a supply, with instructions to overtake us this evening at Waimanalo. Kahawai is one of the old-time natives, dark brown, with deep furrows in his face and a picturesque shock of black hair, strikingly streaked with white. He is of short stature, rather stout and at least 60 years of age. He can speak no English. He is to gather together all the people on the plantations and in the villages for examination, and I am to vaccinate those who have not previously been vaccinated or who, in my opinion, are not protected from smallpox. I am also to ascertain if there are any secreted cases of smallpox and to have any such cases properly attended or sent back to Hono RIDE TO THE PALI 29 lulu, and I am to look out for and report any possible cases of leprosy. I have with me Marshal Parke's letter and also my appointment certificate from Dr. Emerson, as well as letters of introduction to the owners of the principal plantations. Mr. H. A. P. Carter and other friends warned me as we were starting out that it would be impossible to get through the Pali on account of the storm; but as both Dwight and I were well mounted and had on our rubber coats and leggings, we decided to try it. We set off at a full canter, the usual speed for riding here, and soon left the town behind us. After crossing several bridges and passing patches of taro (arum esculentum) we went by a house, once the residence of the agent of the Hudson Bay Company, near which was a pretty fall of water. Beyond this the trail grew rougher and the valley contracted as we rode on. The ride to the Pali was weird and grand. Nuuanu Valley was a river, and from the mountains on either side beautiful cascades fell over the cliffs from heights of from IO to 75 feet. The natives' grass huts looked as if they were very poor protection from such a rain, but most of them are as dry inside as the best built houses in Honolulu. The country was one carpet of green, dotted with bright flowers and, here and there, a clump of guava bushes or coffee trees, lime trees, alligator pear trees, orange trees, or some of the many other fruit trees of the Islands. As we ascended the valley, the greenery of ferns and shrubbery became ever more luxuriant. 30 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU At 12 o'clock, after a difficult ride, with the wind driving in our faces, we reached the Pali, a distance of six miles, and found ourselves on the brow of the precipice at the head of the valley. Looking from the Pali to the north, we saw below us a great expanse of fertile lands, dotted with plantations, beyond which we could see the turbulent ocean. We found the pass at the head of the Pali apparently impassable, as Mr. Carter had warned us, and therefore we turned our horses and rode back to a protected little green spot, where we dismounted and let them have a short rest while we refreshed ourselves. Ellis records that at the time of his visit to the Pali in 1822 two rude and shapeless stone idols guarded the Pass on either side. They were called akua no ka pari, gods of the precipice, and were covered with white native cloth; every passer-by laid an offering of flowers, cloth or green boughs at their feet. One can well appreciate their desire to propitiate these gods, for many were the casualties at this point of the trail. After a short rest, we cinched up our horses more tightly and again attempted the Pass, this time successfully. The ride down the Pali was both difficult and dangerous, owing to the narrowness and steepness of the circuitous path and the slippery stones with which it is paved-large, flat, very smooth stones, laid almost vertically in the steepest places. We trusted our surefooted horses rather than ourselves. Sometimes they put their forefeet together and seemed to slide along VIEW FROM THE TOP OF THE PAl I, 188i, KANELOHE IN THE DISTANCE XIE~W FROM PAI3I 31 for five or six feet before coming to a place where they could find foothold to take the next step. At times my horse seemed almost standing on his head. From points of vantage we could see bleached human bones lying at the foot of the precipice, and we thought of the great battle which took place here less than Ioo years ago when Kamekamelha the Great defeated the old Chief, Kalanikupule. The Conqueror, after subduing the other islands, landed at Waikiki in 1795 with a great force, in many hundreds of canoes lashed together in warlike array. He marched inland to the Nuuanu Valley where he was met by Kalanikupule, and a fierce battle ensued; the Chief refused to yield and he and his forces were driven back over the Pali or precipice. All these years their bones have lain there whitening in the sun. Today the rain clouds were driven into our faces with terrific force by the wind sweeping through the narrow gorge but between the gusts we caught occasional glimpses of these bones. After reaching the foot of the pass we made a little better time. We came to a place where the trail forked. The path to the left led to Kaneohe, and we continued down on the right, past the old residence of Mr. John Cummins, where, as manager of a cattle ranch he spent 30 years of his life. Half a mile further on we came to the mill of the Waimanalo Plantation, of which Mr. Cummins is now manager, about 13 miles from Honolulu. We arrived here at a quarter before two o'clock and, securing the services of a native constable, I ordered him to collect all the 32 A MEDICAI STUDENT IN HONOLULU people at a cottage next Mr. Cummins' present residence. In the meantime, I had a chance to see the mill. The natives were chopping cane on a sort of traveling floor. This cane is fed to rollers which crush the stalks so thoroughly nothing is left but fiber, which is called "trash." The pale green, frothing juice passes through a strainer into a pan, where it is constantly skimmed before being put through another strainer. From this second strainer it runs into boilers, where it is given its first boiling. Then it passes into large tanks where it cools and is then drawn into a vacuum pan and afterwards into another large boiler, from whence it flows into a mixer. The juice has now become dark, grainy and very adhesive. It is thoroughly stirred here by a set of revolving wooden pins or spokes, and is then drawn into the centrifugals, where it is rapidly revolved. The sugar that is left is a pale amber and is put from the centrifugals into bags. About i i tons of sugar are made daily in this mill. The plantation of the Waimanalo Sugar Company includes 20oo acres of cane, with nine miles of portable track over which cars are pushed by natives. The exports of sugar from these Islands last year were 63T2 million pounds, or not quite 32,000 tons. From the mill I went to the cottage where the people were now gathered, and there before nightfall I examined 75 persons and vaccinated 30. Most of these were South Sea Islanders, or Lelewas, as the native Hawaiians call them, who are employed in the mill. CUMMINS PLANTATION 33 Some of them were most horribly mutilated as a result of fights in their native land; several had heavy scars, from two to six inches long, completely covering their whole bodies; one old woman, particularly, about 60 years of age, I found it almost impossible to vaccinate because of the difficulty of finding an unscarred place on either arm. After my work was done I was invited by Mr. Cummins to his house to spend the night. I was sitting in a little front room, somewhat sparsely furnished, talking with him, when Dr. Emerson arrived, accompanied by Kahawai, bringing a fresh supply of vaccine. Dr. Emerson was also invited to spend the night, and we had an early supper with Mr. Cummins. After supper we sat about and I enjoyed listening to Hawaiian legends told by Mr. Cummins and Dr. Emerson, until about 8 o'clock, when, being fatigued by our journey, we asked to be excused and were shown our quarters for the night. A door was opened and by dim candlelight we saw a wide bed, or h/ikie, built along the side of the room; it consisted of many mats laid one on top of the other and its width was nearly the length of the room. In it were at least ten or twelve children of both sexes and various ages, who were aroused by our coming. By the light of our dim candle we could see some of them sleepily raising their heads from their pillows and rubbing their eyes to look at the strangers. There was still room for two or three more in the bed, but Dr. Emerson preferred to sleep on the only lounge there was in the living room; so I settled myself in a 34 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU vacant space at the end of the capacious bed and soon fell into a sound sleep. About i i o'clock we were awakened by the noise of pounding on the front door. As the noise continued, Dr. Emerson and I arose and went in search of Mr. Cummins; but much to our surprise we found we were alone in the house, except for the children. We opened the front door, but the person who had been knocking had gone to the back door where he continued knocking, so we went to the back door only to find that he had returned to the front. After doing this several times, Dr. Emerson partly dressed and went out into the front yard, where he waited until the visitor came around again. The man had undoubtedly been drinking heavily, but he managed to make Dr. Emerson understand that "John's" father-the natives call everyone by the first name —had been run over in Honolulu and was seriously ill. Dr. Emerson told him that "John" (Mr. Cummins) must be in one of the cottages, where the man afterwards found him and then went back to Honolulu in the night. How he ever got back in that terrible storm I hardly know, as it was one of the darkest nights I ever saw, raining and blowing a gale. It would have been a difficult task for even a sober man to cross the pass, but for a man in his condition it would seem impossible. Again retiring, we slept undisturbed for the rest of the night. January 4.-I arose at 7 o'clock, and while I was partaking of a bountiful breakfast of bacon, potatoes, LETTER OF INTRODUCTION 35 I6 AA/-. / i - F-7 ara ~gv4 j7~ ~ '4 I I ", / I7 m1 47~cz4~( CT - 36 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU bread and coffee, Kahawai and the local constable were rounding up those whom I had not examined or vaccinated yesterday afternoon. I commenced vaccinating soon after breakfast. It was pitiful to see how frightened some of the ignorant people were, especially the Lelewas, who had been examining the arms of their companions vaccinated yesterday. They hid in the cane fields only to be brought out, trembling with fear, and vaccinated. Nor did this fear seem to leave them after vaccination, for they could not be made to understand what it was all about, and they looked at each other and then at their arms in complete amazement. Eight of the most powerful of the men ran to the beach a mile away and swam out to sea to escape being vaccinated. I sent some natives after them but they were unable to reach them. After vaccinating 25 more laborers at Waimanalo and waiting in vain for those who had escaped to be brought back, we proceeded to Kailua, leaving word that I would vaccinate the eight escaped Lelewas when we returned. On leaving Waimanalo, my horse, which had evidently become homesick, insisted upon returning to Honolulu. Taking his bit between his teeth, he started across the fields in the direction of home, and with all my strength I could not turn him; I did manage to make him swerve a little, but could not get him back to the road. He kept running toward Honolulu across a field until we came to a fence, which I thought he was going to take; but to my surprise, just as he reached the fence, he planted his forefeet I WAIAMANALO FROTN THE NORTH, i88i I A BUCKING HORSE 37 well in front of him and came to a sudden stop, with the result that I was thrown forward on his neck, and on account of his bucking and other antics, I was only able to hold on by swinging around underneath, with my legs and hands crossed over his mane. After dashing about in this way for some little time, we again came to the fence, which I grabbed and, swinging off, held the fence with one hand and the bridle with the other until I got the animal under control and, fortunately having a curb bit, was able to change the reins to the lower ring of the curb and had him under control the rest of the day. The ride to Kailua was through deep gulches and over a trail very muddy from the rains of yesterday and the day before, but the scenery was beautiful. The poor horses sunk almost to their knees in the mud some parts of the way, and mine once slipped and fell completely on his side, but I jumped and escaped a broken leg or some worse injury. We arrived at Kailua at Io A.M. It is a very small settlement, and Kahawai had already gathered the natives in and around the schoolhouse, which only seats about 25 persons. I had the children seated at their desks, and sent Kahawai on to prepare the way for me at Kaneohe. I vaccinated 30 natives here, most of them children, and the squalling that pro, ceeded from that schoolhouse on my departure at 10.30 was certainly a caution. The road to Kaneohe, through a narrow but fertile ravine, was extremely bad; it took us an hour to make 38 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU the four miles. When traveling in this country, it is a comfort to be assured that there are no snakes on any of the Islands! Recently some crates of snakes were imported from India for the purpose of killing the rats, which do a great deal of damage to the sugarcane on the plantations. When they arrived in port, the authorities had them examined and found them most venomous, and consequently they were not allowed to be removed from the ship. When next she sailed she took them out to sea and dropped them overboard somewhere in the middle of the ocean. Perhaps the Hawaiian climate would have agreed with them no better than with the late Dr. Heilbrand's importation of frogs, which he brought here in the interests of the gardener and farmer to eat the insects. They were turned loose in the taro patches in the Nuuanu Valley. The people walked out from the town to hear them croaking, but after a few weeks they were silent, and were never again heard. Dwight pointed out to me long, narrow depressions on some of the hills to be seen from our path, where old Hawaiians used to play one of their favorite games of chance. This game was called holua (meaning "sliding down hill"). A trench was dug from the top of the hill to the bottom and out onto the adjoining plain, and in this trench grass was allowed to grow. In playing the game, a huge sledge of sticks and matting was laid upon two long, narrow runners, perhaps 16 feet in length, polished smoothly and set at such an angle that they were about two inches apart in front KANEOHE 39 and five inches behind. Placing his sled at the top of the sloping hill, the player threw himself upon it, and with great skill kept his balance as it sped swiftly down the incline. The angle of the slope, sometimes as much as 45 degrees, was so great that it was a most dangerous game, often resulting in death. On their skill in this sport it was not unusual for the players to stake the very last articles of their clothing and even the bones of their arms and legs to be converted, after their death, into fish-hooks and arrowheads. Kaneohe is pleasantly situated. Directly around the settlement and all the way up the lofty precipice there are grassy knolls, running brooks and green meadows of great fertility, alternating for a distance of ten or fifteen miles. There is good evidence that the entire district was once a volcanic crater. It is hemmed in on all sides, except to the seaward, by lofty basaltic and lava precipices. It was 11.30 when we arrived at Kaneohe. Kahawai and the constable who assisted him at Kaneohe had gathered the people together in three groups; some were on a hill just above the Harris sugar plantation, where I examined them and vaccinated those who needed it; a few were in front of one of the stores, but most of them were in the courthouse. Altogether I vaccinated 58 Hawaiians and Chinese children in Kaneohe, and Dr. Emerson and I lunched with Mr. Rose, who is manager of Harris' plantation and who received us very kindly. Sugarcane seems to have been indigenous to the 40 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU Hawaiian Islands. Captain Cook speaks of finding it here "of large size and good quality," and at least since 1835 plantations of sugarcane have been cultivated. There are now 70 plantations on the Islands, eight of which are on Oahu. These are the Kaneohe and the Heeia Plantations at Kaneohe, the Kaalaea Plantation, the Laie Plantation, the Niu Plantation in the District of Waialae, the Waialua Plantation, the Waianae Sugar Company and the Waimanalo Sugar Company. After we had lunched with Mr. Rose, Dr. Emerson, being satisfied that I was competent to continue the work alone, left me and returned to Honolulu; and I proceeded to Heeia, where I arrived io minutes before 3. Kahawai had gathered the children and adults at the native Catholic school, situated within a very pretty enclosure near the Catholic church. The priest seemed to have perfect control over the children and the discipline was better than in any other native school that I have visited. I vaccinated 43. Much opposition developed to the spread of Roman Catholicism in the Hawaiian Islands after its peaceful introduction by the Jesuits in 1827, but force was used in I839 by La Place, acting under the authority of the French Cabinet. He demanded, under the batteries of his frigate, that the Roman Catholic faith have "ample scope and verge" here, and he required the Hawaiian King to place on board his frigate $20,000 as a guarantee that the Jesuit priests should in future be undisturbed in propagating their faith MCKEAGUE'S PLANTATION 41 although France was at that time endeavoring to suppress this particular order at home. La Place also demanded that French brandies be admitted into all Hawaiian ports, with a duty of only five cents a gallon. The King had no alternative; he must submit or Honolulu would be leveled to the ground and things even more distasteful to him than Roman Catholicism and brandy would follow. I next rode on to McKeague's plantation, where we arrived a little after 4. The constables had gathered the entire population back of Mr. McKeague's house. I examined them all and vaccinated, on Mr. McKeague's back porch, 62 persons. By the time I had finished darkness was setting in and I decided to accept his invitation to spend the night with him. After supper we passed a very pleasant evening, with card playing and music, and retired at i i o'clock. January 5.-This morning we rose before 6 and, after an early breakfast, started for Aahuimanu. We had not gone far before we met Charley Peterson on his way to Honolulu, and I sent a note back by him to Mr. J. O. Carter. We also met many natives riding or walking. It is a common occurrence to pass an entire family of perhaps five or six persons on two horses. Aahuimanu is noted as a grazing center. We arrived there, at Mr. Waite's rice plantation, at 8 o'clock, and I vaccinated 31 of the group gathered for my examination. They were mostly South Sea Islanders and some of them were very much frightened, in spite of 42 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU my efforts to assure them that no harm was being done them. From here I rode to the Chinese rice plantation near Kahaluu where, in spite of a hard resistance, I succeeded in vaccinating eight persons. The Chinese children objected to being vaccinated and the parents would use no authority, insisting that in each case the child should decide. They have their own methods of vaccination, usually by blowing a powdered vaccine scab through the nose, and it was only by the show of authority and some fighting that I was able to vaccinate even eight of them. This plantation is located to the east of Kahaluu, at which place Kahawai had divided the people into two groups; one in the outskirts included quite a number of Portuguese, who also resisted, but I vaccinated eight of them. At Kahaluu proper my constable collected about Ioo persons, of whom I vaccinated 37. On account of the violence of these people, Kahawai remained with me until I had finished vaccinating, and we left Kahaluu together at about I2 o'clock; later I sent him on to Waiahole, with instructions not to wait for me there but to proceed to Waikane, where I expected to overtake him. He was to get the people together at the house of a prominent native in Waikane. Word had evidently gone ahead of us, and the people at Waikane made it most difficult for Kahawai to collect them and keep them together until I arrived, so I had to wait what seemed a very long time after I got to Waikane for the complete rounding up of the HAKIPUU 43 populace. Of those I examined there I vaccinated 26, and left at about 2.20 P.M. At 4 o'clock I arrived at Hakipuu after a delightful ride, most of the way along the seashore. Fish ponds are fenced in and the country on this side of the island is well watered. At Hakipuu I vaccinated 11 persons in a little schoolhouse situated on a hill. CHAPTER III KUALOA —GEORGE CARTER-KAAAWA-NATIVE COOKING -KAHANA, A BEAUTIFUL BAY-HAUULA, AN EXCELLENT BATHING BEACH-PUNALUU-KALUANUISHARKS —LAIE MALOO —LAIE WAI-MORMON SETTLEMENTS-MR. CLOUGH-KAHUKU-ANCIENT LEGEND ---KUKUI TREES —WAIALEE —WAI MEA-A NATIVE BIRTH —KAWAILOA-EMERSON'S ENTERPRISE RANCH-WAIALUA WE next proceeded to Kualoa, a distance of about a mile. Just before reaching there I came upon George Carter, who was out shooting. The location of Kualoa is interesting; in front rolls the wide Pacific and on each side are the mountains of the Koolauloa Range. In these mountains are many wild goats. The plains of Kualoa contain thousands of acres where, tradition says, there was once a large population. The few houses are located at the base of a high wall of mountains and the main house is reached through a grove of magnificent algaroba trees. I vaccinated seven persons in a native grass house, and I then went on to Kaaawa where, in another grass house, I vaccinated seven more. These grass houses, at a distance, often look like haystacks, until you see the children coming out from underneath them, followed by their parents. Many of them are especially clean and neat, though some are 44 NATIVE GRASS HOUSE NATIVE DIET 45 infested with millions of fleas. I have found no other vermin in those in which I have slept, though there are scorpions and centipedes in these islands, said to have been introduced from some Spanish vessel, and I am told it is not unusual to find one of these creatures in one's bedroom. The scorpions are much more virulent than the centipedes. There are seldom any chairs or other furniture in the native house, mats being used to sit on-usually cross-legged-and also to sleep on. Cooking is done outside on stones or in earth ovens; and the utensils, of which there are very few, are generally left on the stones. The ovens are made in various ways, but the most usual is a hole lined with stone, in which a fire is made; after the stones are sufficiently heated the embers are removed. Fresh taro or ti leaves are used to line the oven, and after the meat, fish or taro has been placed within, more leaves are used to cover it. Earth is then heaped on top and it is left until sufficient time has elapsed to cook the food. This process is called luau. Chicken and taro compose almost the sole articles of diet, with milk from the cocoanuts. To the stranger or guest a luau is often given, at which fruit and roast pig are sometimes added to the usual fare, with fish, if near the shore. Their pigs they roast whole over the hot stones, surrounded by taro and sunk in the concave ovens a foot deep and covered with ti leaves to a depth of six inches. Hot stones are put in the belly of the pig, and more on top of the ti leaves. A guide to act as interpreter is necessary in such a 46 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU trip as mine, for in places like this only the native language is spoken. The ride this afternoon from Kaaawa to Kahana was most delightful, part way along a sandy beach from which rose perpendicular cliffs a thousand feet or more high, with great caves hollowed out of their sides. The scenery was more beautiful than any I have yet encountered, or so it seemed to me-though some places brought back to my mind early impressions of Brant Rock or Duxbury beaches in Massachusetts. About four miles beyond Kaaawa there was pointed out to me, on the top of the mountain, the colossal Hawaiian Lion, a natural formation of rock which, I am told, suggests the lion in Trafalgar Square, London. Kahana is a Mormon settlement, situated in a low valley, surrounded by an almost semicircular mountain ridge, with foliage distinctly tropical, the valley widening as it approaches the sea. Mile after mile the road continues to wind along the bases of high, precipitous rocks, sometimes close to the sea. Approaching Kahana, there is a little stream from the mountains that flows into Kahana Bay, the water of which is quite shallow. As darkness was approaching, I was riding at a fast pace, and I thought my horse would gallop right through it. Instead, he surprised me by taking a long leap and clearing it. I left the saddle and if it had not been for the reins I should have slipped over his tail to the ground. As it was, I was well back on his haunches for some distance, but I finally recovered my seat. KAHANA BAY 47 Our difficulties were increasing for at Kahana I found that Kahawai had been unable to collect all the people, and we were not warmly received, but I managed to vaccinate about a dozen. Although night had overtaken us and it was now quite dark, we could not find an acceptable place to sleep, so we pushed on about three miles further, through several native villages, to Mr. Lane's plantation at Hauula, where we were met with a very cordial welcome and were given a pretty "high time." Mr. Lane himself was in Honolulu, but we were received by his native Hawaiian son and his employees. They prepared a very good supper of poi, taro and something they called tea, but they had no butter, eggs nor bread; evidently they live almost entirely on taro prepared in different ways. They gave me a very good place to bunk in a grass house, and Kahawai slept in a nearby native hut. January 6.-I arose at 6 o'clock this morning, as being determined to do a good job, I had dispatched Kahawai back to Kahana Bay, with instructions to get what assistance was necessary from the native constables, under the authority of the Marshal of the Hawaiian Islands, to gather the people together. He left between 4 and 5 o'clock in the morning and, after having had my breakfast, I followed at 7.30, retracing the path which we followed last night in the dark. I soon arrived at the shore of Kahana Bay, certainly the most beautifully situated and one of the most delightful spots on the island, sheltered on all sides but 48 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU the ocean side by mountains and tropical vegetation. I vaccinated 33 more persons at Kahana which, with the 1i vaccinated last night, makes 44; and I then resumed my trip around the island, pushing on to Punaluu, where I vaccinated 31 persons in a building used as a schoolhouse, and from there to Kaluanui, where I vaccinated eight persons in a grass hut. These are the two villages we passed in the dark last evening in search of quarters for the night. We then returned to Hauula, where I vaccinated eight of the group gathered there for examination in a grass house. Hauula has an excellent beach for bathing, if it were not for the sharks. There is a saying that a shark never touches a native, and there is no record of such an attack, as I understand, on Oahu; but I read in a paper not long ago that when the schooner "Pohoiki" was capsized about three miles off Napuuapele, Hawaii, Captain Paahao, a native, his wife and young son were lost. The Captain's body was drawn into the schooner's boat by two of the crew, but the sharks had bitten off both his legs at the thighs; as soon as it was seen that he could not live, he was again thrown into the sea, at his own request, and was drowned. Two others of the crew were badly mangled, one losing his left arm near the shoulder and the other bitten in the abdomen. The fate of two more sailors was never known. From Hauula I rode on 2X2 miles to Laie Maloo where I vaccinated I5 in a native house, and then to Laie Wai, where I arrived at i o'clock. This is a very MORMON SETTLEMENT 49 pretty spot, a Mormon settlement, with a church and a schoolhouse and snug cottages with cultivated land about them. Some white Mormons from Salt Lake City came here years ago and converted many natives. The natives complain that the Mormons took their land unfairly and forced their religion upon them; but be that as it may, it is a most flourishing settlement. There are three white families here and I was hospitably received and very kindly treated at the house of the principal Mormon, Mr. Clough, with whom I took dinner. It seemed good to be once more surrounded by white people-although they were Mormons-with whom I could talk freely and eat the food to which I have been accustomed at home. Still, the natives are almost invariably hospitable and give me the best they have; a chicken is usually slain in my honor and a whole house, consisting of one room furnished with plenty of mats, is set aside for me, the usual occupants going elsewhere to sleep. These people are gentle and courteous with a civilization and customs of their own -far removed indeed from our early ideas of the "heathen." The natives here were not altogether pleased when I stopped with Mr. Clough rather than with them. They seem more intelligent than those in the little settlements which I have recently visited, and they did not object to being vaccinated. I vaccinated 58 at Mr. Clough's house. The next stop, Kahuku, I reached after a ride of 7~2 miles over a most beautiful, level, grassy plain, be 50 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOILULU tween the sea and the Koolauloa Mountains. Here and there we came across large tracts of ground which were scattered with the bones of animals that had died in the great drought and famine a few years ago. My guide called my attention to a high point of land protruding from the mountains into the plain, which they call Kalaehipa, and to several caves and the remains of a battlefield. Many are the traditions or legends concerning the extraordinary terraqueous formations in the open plains and in the mountains. One of these, two or three miles from Kahuku, is an inland sea; adjoining is an invisible subterranean cave, over the mouth of which nature has thrown a portcullis of rock, which is cracked, so that anyone on the inside can look out over the surface of this miniature sea, and no one but a good diver can enter the cave. Tradition says that in ancient days a woman was pursued by a number of warriors; coming to the cave, she dived under the rock which obstructs its mouth, rising to the surface of the water within the cave, where she could look out and laugh at her pursuers who were unable to follow her. At another place I was shown a hole called Lau-i-kawai, about which a great many legends are told; one is the story of a native who fell in and came out white. We also saw a large cave in which the lava, in cooling, had formed two shapes somewhat resembling men, which were worshipped in the old days as gods. Beside the arch at the entrance of this cave stands a lone cocoanut palm, giving a dignity and solemnity to the spot. KAHUKU 51 Along the mountain sides and in the gulches grows every variety of grass and forest trees on these islands, including the orange, bread-fruit and ohia-both red and white-and above them, on the mountain sides, the koa and kukui, peculiar to this country. The kukui, or candlenut tree, which is especially abundant in the mountains, has many uses. It furnishes a gum, which the Kanakas use in preparing their tapa, or native cloth, and this cloth is itself made from the bark of the tree; the inner bark produces a permanent, dark red dye; but the nuts are the most valuable part. They are heart-shaped and about the size of a walnut; beside being used as food, they are sometimes burned to a charcoal, which the natives pulverize and use in tattooing their skins and in painting their canoes, surf-boards and musical instruments. These nuts also take a high polish and are worn by the natives for ornaments, as we wear jewels, and sometimes they are carved most beautifully. They serve their most useful purpose as lights; in some of the places where I have stopped they were the only lights used. As they contain a great deal of oil they burn for a long time. Here at Kahuku is one of Mr. Campbell's stockbreeding ranches, a fine tract of plain and mountain land measuring about 20,000 acres and 12 miles in length. It is the largest ranch I have seen and pastures many horses as well as 3000 head of cattle. As we approached Kahuku, we saw the ranch house and surrounding buildings, well-covered with vines, on a 52 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLUIU slightly elevated slope in the center of a great plain, with the blue Pacific on one side and a wall of mountains on the other. We were hospitably received by Mr. Buchanan, the manager; I found him and his wife very pleasant, and they invited me to have supper with them and spend the night. We had supper at 5 and then they placed at my disposal a whole cottage, nicely furnished, to which I was glad to retire at 10.30. January 7.-I rose at about 7 this morning and vaccinated 14 stragglers before leaving Kahuku. At 9 I left for Waialee, a small group of grass huts about a mile and a half from Kahuku, where there are beautiful groves of cocoanut trees. Here I vaccinated six persons and then continued on my way over a good hard trail along the coast to the small settlement in the beautiful sequestered dell of Waimea. Here I vaccinated i9 persons and afterwards I attended the birth of a native child in a grass hut. During her labor the mother held a rope suspended from the bamboo poles above her in the center of the hut; the hut was crowded with natives, and many were peering in at the door. As her pains came, the woman pulled herself up by the rope, and the onlookers chanted some words which I did not understand. When a child is born the natives present watch to see what it first appears to look at when it opens its eyes, for it is the custom to name a child for the person or object which first comes to its vision. In this case it apparently MAP OF OAHIU 53.Ld Q I a Iit r 3 0 r U 0 f. a I. w -1; a a i 1) 0 Ta, 54 A MEDICAL STUDENT INN HONOLULU looked at a woman working in the room, and the watchers shouted "Hana!" After leaving Waimea we came to a swollen stream which our horses had great difficulty in fording, both on account of its depth and of the quicksand. It was raining hard and the river rising rapidly, but we finally got over safely and soon reached Kawailoa Ranch, which is well-stocked. The ranch house is situated within a stone's throw of the ocean. The whole ride from Kahuku to Kawailoa is over almost uniformly level land, averaging perhaps two miles wide from the base of the mountains to the seashore. The sea waves break upon miles and miles of silent shore; a few grass huts clustered here and there are the only signs of human habitation in one of the most beautiful belts of country in Oahu. We then proceeded to Waialua, our route leading over a beautiful level road of greenest grass, with herds of fine cattle feeding on the plains. One comes within full view of the village when six or seven miles distant. It is situated at the base of the Konahuanui Range, on its western slope, and the scenery is bold, beautiful and varied. The rugged slopes of the Kaala Range rise at a short distance, with Mt. Kaala, the highest point in Oahu, towering to a height of 4060 feet. During this rainy season many cascades may be seen falling from the sides of these mountains, and the district is well watered by five streams. The view from Waialua, especially toward the ocean, is unsurpassed. The harbor here is very poor, but it has WAIALUA 55 a shore that is only equalled by Waikiki for surf-riding, a favorite sport among the natives. The waves, with their foamy crests, mount to great heights-in heavy gales to 30 feet or more-rising at a distance from shore and travelling with great rapidity until they finally break up on the beach. The cane fields in the vicinity of Waialua add a feature of rich beauty and luxuriance to the landscape. The sugar mill stands out in bold relief, with a grove of trees in front. The Enterprise Ranch belongs to the Emersons, and some good specimens of horses and cattle may be seen here. This is a mission station, founded by the late Rev. John S. Emerson, in 1832. He was born in Chester, N. H., in i8oo; was educated at Dartmouth College and Andover Theological Seminary, and died here in i867. Mrs. Emerson and her son are the resident missionaries. Mrs. Emerson was at home and received me most kindly. The site of the house is well-chosen, in the midst of a cocoanut grove, where the ground is fertile; and a perennial spring flows just below, furnishing power for a hydraulic ram, which throws the water into the house yard. In the garden are tamarinds, bananas, dates and cocoanuts. From the house one may see other cocoanut groves and many acres of cactus. Governor Dominis, husband of the Heiress Apparent, also has a house here. I had dinner with Mrs. Emerson, and she put up a lunch for us to eat on our way. As her son is to vac 56 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU cinate the District of Waialua, including the hands on the Waialua Plantation, where the operations of milling sugar cane I found very interesting, I left some vaccine here and started at 2.15 P.M. for Makua, in Waianae District. CHAPTER IV NARROW ESCAPE ROUNDING KAENA POINT-MAKUAHIKIIOLO — NAKEA —KAMAILE — WAIANAE — MR. JUG Ius RICHARDSON-NAN-AULI —EWA —THE HULA -KALUA —HONoLULII RANCI —WILD CATTLE— HOGS —HORSES —WAIKELE -WAIPIO-WVIAWAMAANAUA-WAIAU — WAIMALU —KALAUOA-AIEAIALAWA —MOANALUA-KAIIHI -FINISH HORSEBACK RIDE OF 150 MILES-VACCINATED 802 PERSONS IN EIGHT DAYS THE road to Makua was very difficult and often dangerous; the hills are cut by numerous ravines and markcd by water courses. We alternately ascended steep hills and descended into valleys with few houses. As we rounded Kaena Point, where the road was cut out of a precipice, we had to hug the sheer wall; far below the waves were dashing on rocks and surging into the caverns beneath us. From our horses' backs we could see only the water, hundreds of feet below. While we were rounding this dangerous point darkness overtook us; it had been raining hard all day and a stiff wind was blowing in our faces. We came to a place where the narrow trail was completely washed away and our horses had to leap, landing on the other side on a path no more than three feet wide. We rode in single file, Dwight first and Kahawai behind At the 57 58 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU second of these washouts, rather wider than the first, Dwight and I made the leap safely, but Kahawai, who was riding a shaggy old white horse, did not; his horse reached the other side only with his fore feet. Kahawai managed to scramble over his horse's head and gained the path at the same instant that the poor beast, unable to hold on, fell into the abyss to the ocean so far below that we did not even hear the splash! After his narrow escape, Kahawai mounted behind Dwight, and we thus rode to Makua, which we reached between 7 and 8 P.M., having ridden over 40 miles today. January 8.-This morning I vaccinated 17 persons in a native house, and rode on to Hikilolo. We are now going through the Districts of Waianae and Ewa. I vaccinated seven at Hikilolo, four at Nakeau and seven at Kamaile, all small villages between Makua and Waianae. Arriving at Waianae, I found Kahawai had rounded up a large group of native laborers from Wiedemann's Plantation, who kept me busy for the greater part of the day. Mr. Julius Richardson, manager of this plantation, was born in Rochester, Vermont, in I837. He sailed from Boston for Honolulu in the clipper ship "Phantom," where he arrived July 13, I859. After I had vaccinated 86 at Waianae, I determined to ride on 25 miles to Mr. Campbell's ranch at Honouliuli for the night. Stopping on the way at a JUDGE~ H. A. WIDEMANN AND HIS DAUGHTER MINNA, i88ii THE HvULA HULA 59 grass house at Nanakuli to vaccinate one native, we arrived at Ewa about 4 P.M. I tethered my horse and arranged to stay for the night in a native wooden house, which was built on stilts so that one had to go up an outside flight of stairs to enter it. Underneath the house and running around the poles on which it rested were hogs, chickens and dogs. One of the chickens was soon caught, dressed and roasted in a stone oven in the earth for my supper. Kahawai, who had arranged for me to vaccinate at Ewa tomorrow morning, was very anxious that this afternoon and evening I should see the natives practicing a hula, or native dance, which has been in progress here for some time. With Kahawai and some other natives, I went through a banana grove at the rear of the house, following the sound of tom-toms and ukeleles and the low chanting of mzeles, or native songs-rhythmic recitations of their traditions. In an open space in the midst of the grove were the hula girls dancing to this music, clad only in short circular aprons of dried grass, which hung from grass ropes around their waists. The last King, Kamehameha V, countenanced the hula, but the present King, Kalakaua, is looked upon as the patron saint of the dance, and this almost continuous hula is in preparation for the great hula, to be performed in celebration of the King's return, when he comes back from his trip around the world. He has not yet been crowned, and the greatest hula of all will be in honor of that event. 60 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU Hula performers are divided into two classes, the olapa (agile ones) and the lho'o-paa (steadfast ones). The role of olapa is assigned to young men and women who can best illustrate in their persons the grace and beauty of the human form. The role of the ho'o-paa is given to men and women of greater maturity, but I did not see their dance. In the olapa only young virgins are allowed to take part, and in the final dance before the King or to celebrate any great event one or two men also dance, and at the end of several days each man may choose the girl by whom he is most attracted, and running off with her into the seclusion of a grove, they consummate a marriage, according to the native custom which has prevailed for ages. Such preparatory dances as the one I saw today extend sometimes for two months, going on continuously day and night in relays, before the dancers are allowed to take part in a real consummating hula. The men with whom the girls practiced today were allowed to dance only for a short time; most of the time the girls danced by themselves. Without strict rules and a firm hand to hold in check the excitable dancers of both sexes, it would often be impossible to keep order during these kulas. The rules and discipline of the halau, or school of the hula, are very strict. There are many taboos, certain articles of food, like sugar cane, are forbidden, and contact with a corpse is not permitted. Personal cleanliness is demanded and sexual morality insisted upon; the dancer's whole being is devoted to the pur THE HULA HULA 61 suit of the art. They are given time to trim their hair, nails and beards and to anoint and groom themselves carefully. The place where they dance must always be kept freshly strewn with dried grasses. After a service of worship and song, each novice sits down at a ceremonial feast, and the carver selects for him the most typical parts of the roast pig, such as the snout, ear tips, tail and portions of the vital organs, especially the brain. The costume is much the same for both sexes: anklets of whales' teeth, bone, shell-work, dogs' teeth, fiber, etc. I n addition to the grass apron, they wear leis or garlands on their heads and necks and sometimes on their wrists. They dance to the music of various primitive instruments; beside the ukelele, the ukeke, the nose flute, the singing-splinter-not unlike a Jew's harp, made by holding a reed of thin bamboo against a slit cut in a larger piece of bamboo-the ili-ili-consisting of two pebbles held in the hands and struck together like castanets-and the pulai, which is a strip from the green leaf of the ti plant, an inch wide and six inches long, rolled up, pressed and blown, when it emits a reedlike tone. Drums are made of gourds and of wood or hollow logs stretched with the skins of sharks or with tapa cloth. When I returned to the hut this evening I found a young boy there who had arranged my sleeping quarters and was finishing the preparation of my meal, which he served himself. I have not seen him before, but I think he is some relation of Kahawai's. He says 62 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU his name is Kalua and seems to enjoy doing anything in his power to make me comfortable. January 9.-This has been a very busy day. I rose early and the boy Kalua got me a delicious breakfast, after which I vaccinated I3 people in a native house and then went on to Waikele and vaccinated 13 more also in a native house. Ewa has a spacious and deep harbor, which is rendered almost useless by a coral reef. I took a ride over the Honouliuli Ranch which is quite romantic. The soil is a deep, reddish loam, up to the highest peaks, and the country is well-grassed. Springs of water abound. The ilima, which grows in endless quantities on the plains of this ranch, is considered excellent for feeding cattle; beside it grows the indigo plant, whose young shoots are also good fodder, of which the cattle are fond. Beneath these grows the manieizie grass, and Spanish clover and native grasses grow in the open; so there is abundant pasturage of various kinds here. As I rode, to the left were towering mountains and gaping gorges; ahead, undulating plains, and to the right, creeks and indentations from the sea. A wide valley of fertile land extends between the Nuuanu Range and the W\aianae Mountains and thence to the coast of Waialua. There are many wild goats in this valley, which are left more or less undisturbed because they kill the growth of mimosa bushes, which would otherwise overrun the country and destroy the pas WXVsI ln HORSKES 63 turage for cattle. These wild goats were found on the islands by the earliest navigators. Royalty alone hunted them in the early days, one person sometimes taking several hundred in a day. They chased them on horseback. Clinging by his legs around the belly of the horse, the rider swung his body over one side, while the horse was going at full speed, reached down and grabbed the goats by the hind legs, one after another, breaking the legs by a sudden expert movement, and leaving the victims to be dispatched by attendants who followed close behind. Early in the century the Islands contained thousands of wild hogs and dogs. The first horses seen here were brought from Boston in i803 and later importations were made from California. They have increased, and there are today many wild horses on the island of Hawaii. Somewhere among the mountains on that island there is a beautiful wild white horse, for whose capture large sums of money have been offered by Mr. Samuel Parker, a native rancher; but so far it has eluded all attempts to catch it. Efforts have been made to corral it, as other wild horses and cattle are corralled, by building a palisade of stakes covered with bushes, starting wide at the head of a valley and contracting to a V-shape, the cattle being driven down from the mountains and herded into these corrals. Here, too, horses and cattle have escaped to the woods and become wild, so that now herds of them are said to run wild in the mountains, and the wild bulls lead many of the domestic cattle to the mountains, 64 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU thereby doing damage to the stock farms. After being corralled, the horses are lassoed by the head and one foreleg and brought to the ground, and a native rider is lashed to the back of each. The horse is then released and runs until nearly exhausted, when the rider, who has a sort of bridle in his hands, reaches over, puts it on and masters the horse. The bridle is without a bit and is put on around the nose. Another method is to bind the horses down on their knees until, from perspiration and weakness, they become exhausted and are then manageable. Either of these processes often ruins what is a fine animal when first caught. In these same valleys, back of the Honouliuli Plantation, there are patches leased to the Chinese, where fields of rice supplant both the mimosa and other growths, including disused taro beds, and turn a wild pasture into a plantation of great value. Old taro patches abound in the valleys and along the margins of the streams and in many places where the smallpox has carried off all the inhabitants it grows wild. There are 28 varieties of taro and it grows, like rice, in shallow reservoirs. The plants are set in little clumps or long rows, and when planting the native stands up to his knees in water and puddled clay. The leaves alone appear above the water; they are broad and thick and may be cooked and eaten as a vegetable. The roots are o or 15 inches long; they are boiled and eaten like a sweet potato, or mashed to a pulp and kneaded with the hands like dough; mixed to a paste with water or HONOULIULI RANCH 65 milk, this dough is called poi, which may be of several thicknesses. Poi is the national dish and staple food; it has been estimated that 40 square feet of taro will support a person for a year. The best poi is made from pink taro. Years ago, when this variety was scarce, it was taboo to the populace and was reserved for royalty only. Honouliuli Ranch was originally owned by a high chiefess, Kekanonohi. She devised it to her husband, Haalea. On his death it went to his second wife, who sold it to Mr. J. H. Coney, from whom Mr. Campbell bought it in 1877 for $95,000. 32,300 head of branded cattle were driven off this ranch when the transfer was made and, after giving the ranch a rest, Mr. Campbell restocked it, and from him Honolulu now gets most of its supply of meat. Cattle intended for the slaughter-house are brought here to fatten and about six head are slaughtered every day to supply the Honolulu market with beef, and are forwarded by the steamer "Kapiolani." There are on the ranch at least 5000 head of Durhams, Herefords, Jerseys, Ayrshires and Holsteins, besides horses and mules. Mr. Campbell has 42,000 acres here, of which io,ooo are adapted to agriculture. This southern coast of the Island of Oahu is very deeply indented and seems to be more thickly settled than the northern coast. At one place in my ride I passed through a beautiful grove of Kukui trees, beyond Mr. Cummins' ranch and plantations. After leaving Waikele, I vaccinated eleven in Waipio, nine 66 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU at Wiawa, eight at Manana, one at Waiau, three at Waimalu, four at Kalauoa, one at Aiea and two here at Halawa, Kahawai's home, where I am spending the night. All these vaccinations were done in native houses, the stops being close together, and although I have had an extremely busy day, I have covered very few miles. It is comparatively open country on this side of the island, which makes it less wildly picturesque than the other side of the island, but the travelling is easier here. January io.-This morning I rode to the village of Moanalua where a large group of natives were gathered together for examination in a native house. Of these I vaccinated 46 and then went inland to the native village of Kalihi, my last stop, where I vaccinated seven. This afternoon I returned to Honolulu, tired but content, having been eight days making the 150 miles on horseback, examining many hundreds of persons and vaccinating 802 whom I found to need vaccination. These included whites, Sandwich Islanders, Chinamen, South Sea Islanders, Tahaitans, Portuguese, etc.; but of course the majority were native Hawaiians. It is good to get back here and to look forward to a night or two in a real bed with sheets, and a day of rest, before I start on my second trip, which is necessary in order to ascertain what proportion of those vaccinated have taken, to revaccinate those whose vaccination has not taken, and RETURN TO HONOLULU 67 to vaccinate any whom I missed on my first tour. I think I shall be able to reach each stopping place exactly ten days after my first visit. January ii.-I made my report today to Dr. Emerson and have been busy with preparations for my second tour. It has been good to get my mail. A letter from Sarah Russell, written from Hanover, Massachusetts, tells me that the "Solitaire," which I think we spoke off Peru, reported us safely around the Horn. That seems a long time ago, but it will still be some time before I can get answers to the letters I wrote home after reaching Honolulu. CHAPTER V SECOND VACCINATION TRIP-DESCENT OF PALI AT NIGHT -A GRUESOME FIND-UNHAPPY SOUTH SEA ISLANDERS-UNSANITARY QUARTERS OF THE GILBERT ISLANDERS-MULE TAKES FRENCH LEAVE-LIFE IN DANGER -A WEIRD EXPERIENCE-BEAUTIFUL SHELLSCRAMPS FROM EATING COCOANUTS AND THEIR MILK -END OF SECOND TRIP-APPOINTED GOVERNMENT PHYSICIAN TO DISTRICT OF KONA, HAWAII-MR. JOSEPH O. CARTER-VACCINATED OVER I000 PERSONS TO DATE, JANUARY 24-LETTERS FROM HON. H. A. P. CARTER-SCORPION-HON. S. M. DAMON-TAKEN SUDDENLY ILL AT MR. DAMON'S HOUSE. THE account in my journal of my second trip around the Island of Oahu is less detailed than the description of the first trip, when all was new to me. The second trip covered the same ground and was made in the same time. I started out again, with my faithful escort, late in the afternoon of Wednesday, January 12. It was dark when we reached the Pali, and the descent was even more dangerous than before for, added to the fact that the stones were slippery, I had to trust entirely to the surefootedness and sense of direction of my animal. We arrived at Waimanalo late in the evening, after everyone was asleep, and had some difficulty in arous68 WAIA ~MANALO FROM THE EAST, i 88 I LEPERS 69 ing the occupants of Mr. Cummins' house to give us shelter for the night. Finally someone appeared, clad in a night-shirt, with a nightcap on his head and a candle in his hand. He let me in and permitted me to sleep in the living room, on the same couch that Dr. Emerson had occupied on our first visit. My men found quarters in some of the other houses on the plantation and, although we were hungry, it was so late that we went immediately to bed without supper. I began my work early in the morning, and found that 41 out of my 55 vaccinations had taken. I revaccinated those requiring it and made io new vaccinations. To each one whose vaccination had been successful I gave a certificate of vaccination. These certificates were made up like a check book, with little stubs for my records of the cases. From Waimanalo I went to Kailua, where I made i6 new vaccinations. The weather was fine and I enjoyed revisiting this beautiful valley, surrounded by mountains of lava, with very green grass growing part way up their sides. Before we reached Kaneohe, one of the natives told Kahawai that there were some lepers in a house some distance from our path, at the foot of one of the mountains. Galloping off with my constable in the direction indicated, I soon came upon a lonely hut of grass, and within we found two bodies in an advanced state of decomposition; it was impossible to state what had been the cause of their death. We could not get anyone to bury them, and it seemed necessary to remove them before burning down the 70 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU grass house. I finally got some natives to dig a hole some 20 or 30 feet from the entrance of the hut, and then Kahawai threw a lasso over the body of first one and then the other, and drew them out through the opening which served for a doorway and into the hole. The grave was then covered and a match applied to the grass house soon destroyed all trace of the abode and the disease, which was probably leprosy. Although I was prepared to carry out the instructions given me in regard to the detection of leprosy and sending lepers back to be segregated, this was as near as I came to finding any such cases. At Kaneohe I found i6 more persons to vaccinate, and then I had time to go on to Heeia and do my work there and return to Mr. Rose's for the night. At Heeia, beside revaccinating eight, I made 15 new vaccinations. That day a number of Lelewas had arrived from the South Sea Islands-contract laborers for Mr. Rose's plantation. I was invited by the manager to go to the place where these laborers were being examined, men and women, most of them, I should judge, under 30 years of age. They were stripped and given a thorough physical examination, and then assigned to different forms of employment on the plantation, according to the judgment of those who examined them. The examination of these poor Lelewas was not an altogether pleasant experience, so I soon returned to Mr. Rose's house, where Mrs. Rose entertained me with a game of cards and interesting stories of her life on the plantation. i:?-P_>i/LA040^,HO/K, ^P L4A4LA U[0 A 0 1. 'Ke hoike nei kei wa 0 pono ia o{.j. 8r Ino" a o Mak ae ki.......................... f / ''. --- -.....*..-...-. y....... / lt.le 0..- _z..4u...- I o Hii. 188/, e lice me Ice leanaivai fCivila............ CERTIFICATE OF VACCINATION. (SEE TRANSLATION ON OPPOSITE PAGE) N 'I I N7ame of the Child, Kuea. Name of the Mother Kaahanui. L. V.B. ~ertificat~ of Uaccination This is to certify that I have successfully vaccinated Kuea, child of Kaahanui, this the 12th Day of January, A. D., 1881, according to the law. I_ 72 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU Many of these Lelewas are from the Gilbert Islands. They are obtained through contract with agents who supply the number desired, and contracts are usually for three years. How these Islanders are persuaded or forced to come I have not been able to learn, but I do know that many of them seem to be unwilling laborers. Recently a native lawyer at Lahaina, Maui, told the South Sea Islanders on Turton's Plantation that they could not be compelled to work if they did not wish to do so; they immediately refused to work, and much diplomacy and considerable coercion had to be employed to compel them to fill out the time of the contract which had been made by the agent who brought them there. Most of these South Sea Islanders are exceedingly ignorant-the depth of their ignorance is difficult to conceive even after one has lived among them for some time. When they make their contracts with the Board of Immigration in the South Seas, probably not one in fifty has a correct idea of the value and amount of the services to be required of him nor of his destination, and most of them would return to their homes at once if they could. As a race, the Gilbert Islanders have never been trained to long or severe labor. Here they have nine hours of hard work daily before the plantation bell rings, and they are housed in long wooden buildings or shacks, in quarters so close that bronchitis and tuberculosis develop frequently, and deaths from these diseases claim many of them. In some plantations I saw SOUTH SEA ISLANDERS 73 whole families sleeping in the same room and in others unmarried men and unmarried women occupying the same room, a most inexcusable crowding. There is also much sickness among them owing to the change of climate and of diet and to the strain of their work. They complain that rice gives them pain in the stomach, and prefer green or ripe cocoanuts, fresh or dried fish and boiled taro. In their native islands their life is more leisurely. W\hen harvesting their crops they often rest on the road or stop for a smoke, and in carrying their loads they have an opportunity to rest at the end of the journey before going back for another load. Sprightliness is not a characteristic of the race; they are slow in all their movements. The canoe builders sit at their work, as do also the sewers of thatch for their houses; the women sit at home all day, braiding mats, tending their babies or twisting cocoanut fiber. It is no wonder that after they arrive at these plantations and are subject to hard labor they often break down. They are sensitive and very bitterly resent rough words or harsh treatment, and the managers of many of the plantations have already learned that gentleness and forbearance encourage them to make their best efforts at manual labor. For my second trip Charles Dwight had secured for me a mule, valued at something over $300, which had been imported from the States. It was an excellent animal, large, well-groomed and intelligent, and served me very well until I got to Kaneohe. Here 7 A MAIE)ICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU I tethered her in the front yard of Mr. Rose's house and put up the two top bars of the fence where we entered. Imagine my surprise on going out at 7 the next morning to get my mule to find that there was no mule! She had broken the rope which held her and had crawled under the two upper rails of the fence, in her struggles to do so digging a hole a foot deep. She had evidently escaped to the mountains, for a search by the natives in the neighborhood was unsuccessful in locating her. Mr. Rose lent me a beautiful, spirited black stallion with which to continue my journey, a powerful horse and a wonderful runner, and it was fortunate for me that he did so. When I arrived at Kahana on the afternoon of the I5th, I noticed considerable discontent among the Portuguese whose children I had vaccinated; but I finished my work there, vaccinating three new cases and revaccinating I I, and rode on by way of Punaluu and Hauula. There we were overtaken by an excited native, who told Kahawai that two or three of the indignant Portuguese had armed themselves with rifles and were pursuing us, determined to shoot me on sight because I had vaccinated their children without their consent. Kahawai, who had lost his old white horse on the previous trip, had now a new mount, a young mustang which could run like a deer. Being unarmed, we urged our two good horses to their utmost speed, and darkness coming on, we soon struck off from the main trail and made for a native house, belonging to friends of Kahawai, up in the mountains of Koo LIFE IN DANGER 75 lauloa. This proved to be a rather large grass house, with two or three rooms separated by mats hung from the top. Kahawai, in his excited way, explained the situation to the inmates, and said that the angry men would probably follow us, although it was already so dark that we hoped that they would not be able to see our tracks. It was then about 9 o'clock. Kahawai said that he would look after himself and, taking my horse, he disappeared. My hosts hastily strung a grass mat across the narrow end of one of the rooms, lighted a kukui lamp and, putting a few mats on the floor, urged me to make myself comfortable there. They then prepared a dish consisting of lamb and bananas, cooked together, which they brought me and which I ate with my fingers; I was very tired and hungry, and a more savory dish I had not tasted for a long time! About i o'clock one of the natives rushed in and told us that IKahawai, who had evidently been on the watch down the path leading up the side of the mountain, said that a party of armed Portuguese were approaching on horseback. The people of the house told me to put out my light and said that they would take care that I was not discovered. Soon I heard the Portuguese approaching and dismounting. They came into the house and looked about, but as the mat which was hung up to screen off my end of the room was not different from those at the sides, they did not suspect that there was any space behind it. Being satisfied that I was not in 76 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU the house, they searched the premises without and then returned. At that time I could understand very little of the native language, but I could easily make out that my hosts were urging the intruders to have some rest and refreshment and assuring them that I must have doubled on my trail and gone back to Honolulu. The Portuguese said that they had lost all trace of me at the point on the trail where the path branched off which led up to the house, and that I could not have gone beyond that place; they had searched the trail in both directions for two or three hours, but as no one had told them of seeing me return they thought I must have left the path and be hidden in a native house or somewhere in the mountains. I was watching through the cracks in the matting. The main room of the house, with its thatched roof, matted sides and earth floor, was dimly lighted by two candles stuck in bottles, and my pursuers, tall, thin men, were sitting about crosslegged on the mats with their rifles beside them, in animated discussion. My host prepared something for them to eat and also a drink made of awa root. They partook of the food, after which he plied them well with the awa decoction. Finally, at about 4 o'clock in the morning, the continuous chatter ceased and, one by one, they stretched themselves out and dropped off to sleep. After they had been quiet for nearly an hour, my host and Kahawai crept in behind the matting and told me that my horse was ready and that I had better ESCAPE 77 leave before the other guests awoke. Kahawai and 1 stole from the house as quietly as possible, mounted our horses and rode rapidly to Laie, whence we sent back a sheriff with some native police, using the letter which I had from Marshal Parke as authority, to deal with these indignant and rather dangerous Portuguese; and we continued on our way. As I did not have occasion to revisit that part of the island, I do not know what the outcome was; but the manner of the native police, who seemed to feel that their mission was important, indicated that they meant to exercise all the authority that they had to mete out justice. Probably the Portuguese were arrested and confined for a time; at any rate they did not trouble us again. The loss of the mule caused me much anxiety, as I felt it would cost me the first money that I had earned in the Islands; for of course I should have felt obliged to pay what she cost, $300, if she had not been found. Fortunately for me, she was brought in by a native about three weeks after my return to Honolulu. He had found her quietly grazing in the grass land at the foot of the Pali. I made five new vaccinations at Aahuimanu, nine at Hakaluu, three at Waikau and one at Hakepuu, making altogether 84 new vaccinations in the District of Koolaupoko; but the greater part of my work was in examining and certifying those already vaccinated and in revaccinating. In the District of Koolauloa there were 14 new vaccinations, Kaawa three, Kahana three, Punaluu one, Hauula one, Laie Wai 4 and Waialee two. 78 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU I now got a very different impression of the country about Waimea, where we had encountered especially bad weather on my first trip and had such difficulty in fording the little river swollen by the torrents. This time I stopped and picked up a pocket-full of shells on the bank of the stream to send home to my sister. This is the only place on the island where this particular variety of shells can be found. They are small, transparent, serrated shells, about half an inch in diameter, some with a brownish tinge or tiny brown spots and others white. They make very pretty leis, and I knew that my sister Velma would like to sew them on a piece of black velvet for a necklace. As before I passed through the beautiful District of Waialua without vaccinating, as that was Mr. Emerson's territory. I arrived at the Emerson's charming home at Waialua at dusk. Mrs. Emerson again received me most hospitably and, learning that I had never tasted the cocoanut when it was entirely in the milk or liquid form, before the substance of the cocoanut had formed inside, insisted that I should partake of this green fruit. She called a little native boy who, like most of the other children in this part of the island, wore nothing but a waistband, and told him to get me a cocoanut. It seemed to me that he chose the tallest tree to show his prowess; taking a rope made of cocoanut fiber, he threw it around the tree and around his body; tying a knot at the back, he leaned hard against this and, bracing his feet against the tree, he rapidly ascended to the top, pushing the rope up ahead WAIANAE, I 8r WAIANAE 79 of him and all the time keeping it taut by pressing his feet against the tree and leaning on the rope. He threw down two or three cocoanuts and then descended swiftly in a similar manner. The milk from the cocoanut was indeed delicious, and I partook freely of it-but soon regretted my eagerness. About i i o'clock cramps took me and kept me awake for most of the night. However, I was able to leave in the morning, after a light breakfast, though in a weakened condition. I felt as though I had been through a long illness, and determined never again to indulge to excess in strange fruits. On the evening of the i6th I arrived at Waianae, where I vaccinated two that night and io the next morning, besides making the necessary revaccinations. Once each week, a circuit of the Island is made and mail is delivered outside of Honolulu. At Koolau the following letter overtook me and gave me much satisfaction: Honolulu, Jan. 14, I88i. Mr. Briggs, Dear Sir: Yours of this date is received. I am much pleased at your gratifying success. The proportion of those who have taken is good. I wish you to be as thorough as possible in this circuit and to make as clean a sweep of it as possible. Of course, if people will not come and are remote and inaccessible, in deep valleys, etc., you can not help it and are not expected, as a rule, to go for single cases. Still, you must take all reasonable time and do the job thoroughly. 80 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU I am sorry you lost your horse ---Hope you will recover him. Perhaps you had better, in future, couple him to your servant's horse or stake him out. I think on the whole you had better inspect those you vaccinated in the District of Honolulu,. e.. beginning at Moanalua and this side of that place. Let me hear from you again as soon as yolu? i;l.e lpportunity. Yours, etc., L. V. Briggs, N. B. I XEMERSON. Koolau, Oahu. I take up my journal again: January 17.-I am spending the night at Mr. Richardson's sugar plantation at Waianae. Mr. Richardson, like many in these islands, has led an adventurous life; this evening he told me of some of his early experiences. For a time he was manager of a rice plantation at Koolau and, after two years there. he was sent to Jarvis Island as superintendent for a guano company. Several vessels were sent out to his party with provisions, but they never reached their destination and he and his companions were in dire straits. Mr. Richardson says that, while they fortunately had plenty of water, the provisions got so low that their only food was the eggs of the gulls and an occasional bird which could be enticed near enough to kill. Three of the four natives whom he took with him died of starvation. At last Dr. Judd, who was the agent of the company, sent out a vessel which reached them and Mr. Richardson was brought back, but in such a A PROCLAMATATON B~Y N. B. EMERSON, M.D. 81 FWIWIa iIti inhanaka;- pau, rna ka~ hora unmi, 10, o) ke Lakaltiaka o La Poakahi o Leia Piule ae, oja La I'A "14 o tanuari, e hapai hon ana ia i La o lima ma La Hale, Pi-al I14Mole Pope ma Waikiki-kai. Xolaila, e help, pan mal itian naioi a1okahi i hala ae nei,ec loaa al ko iakou palapgala ho.okutu, a mte na iena o Waikiki i o ohk ia mainmua. A. ma. ka 'hrta uunmikuinaI-na~u,4i~, o ke awakea oia la no, e hoomtakaf i:?tHt aLa ka hiu I'at " La Ilaleluule Iloolepope ma Kamoiliiifi Nolatila,et helile pans mnAi ilatila na Lanaka i o ole, ia, mai Punahon, IManoa, Pabol,. litikiki-uka a waeina, me Waialae a me Ni..; a mnalailk e Ioaa I La o pono ia o La. lima me La uku 'le ioi na Leiki me sia Lanaka a. pa i o tile ia, mamua. JE makaala oukon mia ktanuakz, at e hecle p.-tu mai; pela. e pa. kele 'i Latanal- Iuku, Lat mat p~uupuuliilii. N. B, EMERSON., M. D., Ilonoliulu.. 1lian I 1SI. -Luna 0 no Oakw. 82 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU weakened condition that he had to be carried ashore from the vessel. On the 18th I rode 25 miles over lava beds and plains to Ewa, where I spent the night at Mr. Campbell's ranch. His house is on the western lagoon of Pearl Harbor. I went through the Ewa District on the 19th. My journal continues: January 20.-I stopped tonight at the house of my policeman, or maichi, Kahawai, and tonight concluded my second tour around the Island of Oahu, having ridden, in both trips, over 300 miles on horseback. My new vaccinations in the Districts of Ewa and Waianae have been as follows: Waianae 12, Honouliuli two, Waipio one, Waiawa five, Manana one, Waimano four, Waiau one, Halawa one-making altogether 27 new vaccinations in these districts. Mr. Joseph O. Carter has kindly invited me to visit him, and I am now stopping at his house in Honolulu, and very glad to be back here again with my kind friends. January 21.-I went out to Moanalua and Kalihi and examined and vaccinated all day. There were seven new vaccinations at Moanalua and four at Kalihi, and a great many to examine and revaccinate. I have done altogether 134 new vaccinations on my second trip. January 22.-Spent the day at the Government Offices, settling my bills, receiving my pay and rendering J. O. CARTER, ESQ. 83 my report, and I have been appointed Government Physician to the District of Kona, Hawaii, where I hope soon to be ordered. This evening I called on Miss Robertson, the W. C. Parkes and the P. C. Joneses. It is delightful to be with the Carters, who are most kind and hospitable and I am again enjoying Mr. J. O. Carter's tales of the old ships and early days in the Islands.* On account of his important positions, not only with Brewer & Co., but as business agent and trustee for private estates and for members of the Royal Family, Mr. Carter is a very busy man. The value of Mr. Joseph O. Carter's service to the people of Hawaii, both rich and poor, can not be stated too strongly. It was he who suppressed the uprising at the time of the accession of Kalakaua. Mrs. Carter is a charming hostess and she also has had many interesting experiences here. She was educated with the Princess Lydia Liliuokalani (Mrs. Dominis) who acts as regent during the King's absence, whom she describes as a charming and gracious lady, for whom she has great respect and with whom she is on intimate terms. January 23, Sunzday.-I attended services at the Bethel Church in the morning, dined at Robert Lewers' and called on the S. M. Damons and the H. A. P. Carters in the afternoon. Mr. H. A. P. Carter is the younger brother of Mr. Joseph O. Carter with whom I am staying. He and his wife dispense large-hearted S: See pages 135 and 136 "Amy Turner." 84 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU hospitality in their beautiful island home. The place is called "Sweet Home," and is surrounded by beautiful tropical shrubbery. He is a genial host at whose table formality can not exist and he has a wonderful memory and graphic powers of description; yet he can turn from the most serious state affairs to become the children's gleeful playfellow. The Carters were sons of Captain Samuel Carter, who was engaged in the Northeast Trade; his family resided in Honolulu while he pursued his voyages to the west coast of North America. He was an officer on the same vessel with Richard Henry Dana and is referred to in Dana's "Two Years Before the Mast." H. A. P. Carter was sent to Boston to attend school when he was a very small boy. In I850 he went to California to seek his fortune during the gold fever and later returned to Honolulu and entered the employ of C. Brewer & Co., of which firm he is still a Director. I had a long talk with Mr. Carter about my new appointment as Government Physician to the District of Kona, Hawaii, and he has promised to give me letters of introduction to prominent people there. My proposed tour on the Island of Hawaii, as planned by the Government, is first to Waiakea, which is 200 miles from Honolulu, to vaccinate there, then to go over Mt. Kilauea, circling the great crater, and to vaccinate the people of the following towns: first in the District of Kau, Kapapaka, Kaalaala, Hokukana, Honuapo, Kailaikii, Waiohinu, Kaulanamauna; and then in the District of Kona, Honokua, Kealia, Kealakekua, Kaawaloa, Kailua. HON. I - L:: * r * * *:::::::: R:,::::;::: I: D 0 OH X:::::: 0:::: A:: X in: 0::: X: \: t X:: S UD1)EN ILLNESS 85 January 24.-Went to Waikiki Kai and Waikiki Uka and vaccinated 80 persons, which makes over Iooo persons whom I have vaccinated in the last three weeks on these islands, in addition to those whom I have revaccinated and the thousands that I have examined. In spite of my fatigue this morning, I greatly enjoyed my ride. There are many summer residences of Honolulu people in Waikiki, and a very beautiful bathing beach, the best in the world for surf riding, which is very popular here. I hope soon to have time to come back and watch this perilous sport. Today there was too much work to do and I was very tired, as I have had little chance to rest. A great deal of my trip has been in the rain, riding on a wet saddle; and although I had a rubber coat, it was little protection against the driving winds and rain when I was on horseback. I often had to sleep in my wet clothes on mats in native houses, where it was damp at all times as the sun seldom reached the interiors even in good weather. We are having the most remarkable sudden change in the weather that has ever been recorded in these Islands. The thermometer has fallen from 8i to 56 degrees in 14 hours. People who have never before known a cold day, experiencing this great change, have been taken suddenly ill. As I myself am almost acclimated and am consequently more sensitive to cold, I have also been affected by this unusual weather. This, on top of my three weeks' trip, which to say the least was pretty strenuous, brought on a bad hemorrhage late this evening. 86 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU I have been feeling very well until this change in the weather-which some of the learned men here lay to a second outbreak of the volcano in Hawaii which threatens the town of Hilo. I have been looking so well until now that people have looked almost crosseyed when I have told them that I came here for my health, and they have said, "Why, there isn't anything the matter with you, is there?"-and they will not believe me when I tell them that I am only 17 years old. Immediately after my hemorrhage I began to take full doses of fluid extract of ergot, for I want to arrest the thing as soon as possible, so that I can go on with my work, as I have my commission to go to Hawaii. Smallpox has not yet reached there and the Government hopes to prevent the spread of the disease on that island by immediate vaccination. Mr. Carter has sent me the following letters of introduction: On His Majesty's Service Department of Interior, Honolulu, January 24, I88i. Dr. Vineberg, Dear Sir: This will be handed to you by Mr. L. V. Briggs, a medical student who has been employed by the Board of Health in vaccinating on this Island and who has succeeded quite Nwell. IHe goes up to vaccinate in the Kona District and may desire to consult you, in which case please give him any assistance that you can, and oblige, Yours very truly, Dr. H. N. Vineberg, H. A. P. CARTER. Kona. A~-IV P" Zr APPOINTMENT IN GOVERNMENT SERVICE 87 On His Majesty's Service Department of Interior, January 24, i88i. Hon. W. F. Martin, Waiohinu, Dear Sir: This will be handed you by L. V. Briggs, who goes up to vaccinate the people of Kona. Please kakua him in every way. He will want someone to go with him who understands some English. Very truly yours, H. A. P. CARTER. January 25.-I am feeling pretty lame today, but Dr. Emerson has examined me, and thinks that I shall be able to go to Hawaii and that I shall have no more trouble after I get there. I slept last night at the P. C. Joneses' and have been busy all day getting ready for my trip. January 26.-The steamer "Zelandia" arrived today with mail from home, including two letters from my sister, but I have not yet had answers to my first letters home. These, I expect, are on one of the three barks from San Francisco which are lying outside, waiting for the wind to change so that they can come in. I feel quite ill today, presumably from overdoses of ergot, but bleeding has stopped. I am still staying at the Joneses'. January 27.-I have again engaged rooms at Mrs. Bishop's. I dined at Mrs. Lewers', and on returning 88 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU to my room this evening I found a scorpion on the straw matting which covers the floor. When I pushed it with my foot it brought its tail up over the back of its neck and stung itself-then straightened out dead! I did not know before that the scorpion commits suicide when cornered or badly frightened. This is the first one that I have encountered, though I have met with several centipedes. January 28.-I dined at the S. M. Damons'. Mr. Samuel M. Damon is a son of Father Damon of the Bethel Church. He was born in Honolulu on March 13, 1845, and is descended from John Damon, of Reading, England, who settled in Reading, Mass., in 1632. He was educated in Punahau Academy and is a member of the banking firm of Charles R. Bishop & Company, Hawaii's oldest financial institution. He has two children, Eddie and May. Mr. Damon is a sound business man, with high ideals, and is a very good friend, and Mrs. Damon is most kind. January 29.-It has rained very hard for the last few days, but I am picking up lively and feel better. I have been busy writing letters home to go by the "Zelandia." This is the Chinese New Year's, a holiday in the Chinese part of the town It is their custom to give presents on this day as we do at Christmas, and there is hardly a white family in town but has received gifts of ducks, nuts, preserves or firecrackers.-Firecrackers have been going off all day and all night. 0100 ~WA~v~r ~rr rn o e-n ILL AGAIN 89 January 30, Sunday.-I had noon dinner at Mr. Robert Lewers' and this evening I dined at the S. M. Damons'. The dinner was interrupted by my having a severe hemorrhage, and Mrs. Damon insisted upon my remaining here for the night and going immediately to bed. CHAPTER VI SERIOUS ILLNESS AND RECOVERY -WONDERFUL CARE AND DEVOTION BY THE DAMONS-NATIVE DRESS AND HABITS -SMALLPOX A SERIOUS MENACE-FATHER DAMONHABITS OF WHITE MAN FATAL TO MANY NATIVESSERIOUSLY ILL AGAIN —FRIENDS SHOW HAWAIIAN HOSPITALITY AND DEVOTION DURING ILLNESS-LETTERS HOME-SHIPS IN PORT-CASUALTIES TO AMERICAN VESSELS-HORSEBACK RIDING AGAIN —AIKIKISURF RIDING-DIAMOND HEAD —CHASED BY A BULL -A SAD ACCIDENT-LETTERS FROM HOME MY journal was interrupted here for many days, for I was very ill. Hemorrhage followed hemorrhage, until I could not raise my arms in bed without bringing on another. Dr. McGrew was in constant attendance and did everything known to medical science of that day to restore me to health. Mr. and Mrs. Damon were kindness itself. For nearly a week she hardly left me night or day. She nursed me most tenderly and when I began to get a little stronger either she or Mr. Damon lozi-lomzied me night and morning. Lomi-lomi is the Hawaiian form of massage. As I have seen it practiced by the natives, it is much more vigorous than the gentle form given to me by the 90 RECOVERY FROM ILLNESS 91 Damons. It is usually a compound of pinching, pounding and squeezing and the moi-noi, or Hawaiian nurse, finds out the most painful muscles and laughs at your groans while she administers a doubly severe pounding, which in the end is said to relieve any pains or soreness you may have. I had not realized before that I had so many kind friends in Honolulu; they were constantly sending flowers and delicacies and calling to inquire after me. I gained strength very slowly and for a week had my chest packed in ice and was unable to speak aloud or to see any visitors; but as soon as I could give attention to anything I was interested in having my letters read to me as well as items from the newspapers, some of which I preserved instead of writing in my journal. A letter from H. H. Cluff, from Laie, Oahu, dated February 3, reads: "According to your request, though somewhat late, I report the progress of the vaccination in this vicinity. So far as I have learned there are only a few cases but what took." The long-expected letters from home came during my illness and gave me great pleasure. The weather must have continued very bad, for one of the items in the Honolulu paper of February 3, which Mrs. Judd read me some days later, said that the barks "Kalakaua" and "Lizzie Marshall" had been able to sail on that day after waiting five days to get out of the harbor on account of head winds and heavy swells, as 92 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOJLULU the one tug-boat could only tow out vessels in a fair wind. I was interested also in an account in the same paper of the annual parade of the Honolulu Fire Department-streets full of blue and red jackets; the engine and hose carts decorated with flowers and flags and the steam engine of China Company No. 5 almost concealed with flags and streamers-followed by a somewhat riotous celebration at the Headquarters of the Fire Department. But I was very, very ill on the day when these things happened and was not told of them until later. It was a great satisfaction to me to learn, as I lay there quite immobile, that my work in vaccinating the natives had been successful. On February 7 I was told that, although the smallpox had now broken out freely in Honolulu, in the rest of the island where I had vaccinated there were no cases. The epidemic in Honolulu was now very serious. According to the paper already quoted, I4 days after the first smallpox case was discovered in Kukui Lane cases were reported from various parts of the city. These included "George ILucas, Jr., foreigner; a young woman named Lilia, half-white; Victor, a band boy; two cases in Smith Lane; two cases in Queen Emma's residence, and some eight or ten others." In one of the sick wards of the Smallpox Hospital, a separate cottage, "Kaiwai, the policeman, is waiting on his little boy of about five years old. The boy is apparently dying and the father is begging the Deputies to allow his wife to come to take a last leave of her child. In the other cottages are Nahuina, the well LETTERS DURING ILLNESS 93 known policeman, Mr. Herring, the tailor, Mr. Gibbs from the telephone office and many others.... There are i20 patients in the wards. Out of the 247 patients, who have already been here, 64 have died and many are now dying." I had, of course. been obliged to give up all idea of going to vaccinate in Hawaii, and I learned that a physician had been sent to Kona in my place, though I was told that they still wanted me when I was able to go, as I had had a larger percentage of "takes" than anyone else. During these weeks when I was so seriously ill, I was determined that my family should know nothing of my illness, and I should have been much distressed had I known that any of my friends in Honolulu were writing to them, as of course they did, in spite of my urgent requests to the contrary. Until my second hemorrhage I had firmly believed that I should be able to go on with my work, and that my friends at home were still of this opinion is shown by the following letter written to my father by our dear friend Dr. Bowditch: Feb. 6, I88I. Lloyd Briggs, Esq., My dear Sir, You did me a great favor when you allowed me to see the letter from your son. Let him follow out the path "Providentially" opened to him and study medicine with the Doctor he mentions, and after two or three years let him spend a year or two in Europe, and his object will be gained. I should advise his practicing, after his return 94 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU from Europe, in the country, rather than in the sea-shore towns. Yours very truly, H. I. BOWDITCH. P.S.-Please excuse this abominable stylographic pen. It goes again tolerably after an hour's work upon it. On February 9 I managed to write a short letter to my mother, in which I tried to conceal my condition, though I was still very ill. In it I said nothing of my health, but took her to task for writing too sympathetically of my "suffering" on my voyage: During those stormy days off the Horn, when we knew not where we were, I enjoyed myself, laughing, joking and whistling when the danger was at its height, until the Captain said he believed I was a Jonah. He seemed so sober and apparently suffered so much with fear that we should all be lost that I thought I ought to be the one to cheer the rest up-especially as I felt full of the "Old Harry." I have been boarding at Mrs. Bishop's but have been visiting the P. C. Joneses for a few days, and have urgent invitations to visit the Dillinghams and Father Damon and several others. Just now I am visiting Samuel M. Damon, the banker,-a very fine family and a pretty place. He is the son of Father Damon, the Missionary, and they want me to stop with them a long time. I can not go to Kona, Hawaii, at present, as no one is allowed to leave Oahu for the other Islands, on account of the smallpox. The "Meifoo" sails tomorrow and will take this letter. The entries in my journal were interrupted for more than two weeks, but were filled in later with Mrs. DRIVES WITH MRS. DAMON 95 Damon's memoranda of my condition each day and with lists of visitors and of presents of flowers and delicacies of all sorts. Mrs Judd, the wife of the ChiefJustice, lived next to the Damons and came often to see me when I was well enough to have visitors, and every day she sent me jellies and flowers. The names of Mrs. H. A. P. Carter, Mrs. Lewers, the J. 0. Carters, Miss Bernice Parke, Miss Nellie Fuller, Miss Jennings, Miss Hattie Lewers, Miss Robertson, Ada Jones and Lottie Carter occur frequently on these lists of kind friends. On February 14 I was allowed to sit up for the first time and two days later I was carried downstairs and placed in a low barouche, and taken for a short drive with Mrs. Damon. The rains had ceased and the weather was beautiful and these little drives with Mrs. Damon were of almost daily occurrence for some time. I wrote home to my father on the 13th and to my sister on the i7th, telling them about everything except my illness, hoping to save them much unnecessary anxiety. I was now able to read and to talk with my friends, as well as to write more in detail in my journal. February 20.-I enjoy my daily drives with Mrs. Damon. It is good to be about again and everything looks new to me. Today I was struck by the picturesqueness of the women's dress, and when I asked Mrs. Damon how to describe it, she said one might call it "a yoked night-dress, made of calico of brilliant colors." The natives call these garments holuku, and 96 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU a great many white women wear them for morning wrappers. As we drive along I can see numbers of these native women riding in groups of ten or fifteen, sitting astride of high-peaked saddles, bareheaded and barefooted, with leis of the bright yellow blossoms of the ohia around their heads and necks. They wear bright-colored riding habits (or pari) made of a single strip of calico or other material, a yard wide and eight yards long, wound about their bodies and legs and tucked in around the waist in such a way as to let the two ends stream out behind them. In the older days, when the natives sometimes went around with only a hat and a pair of boots on, or with their legs through the sleeves of a shirt; or when a man was seen wearing a chemise and a pair of woman's drawers and a woman with a stove-pipe hat and a bosom shirt upside down, as we are told in the missionaries' narratives, their picturesqueness was lost; but now the novelty of these garments of civilization has passed. Some natives have learned to wear them gracefully while others are returning to their own picturesque dress. I n the old days the women always chose their husbands, but more recently the whites have taught the men their mistake; so now the men do some of the choosing, though they still do most of the cooking and some of the other domestic work. The ktakakas (men) are generally well-formed, as are also the wahiiie (women), but the latter are often so fat that their handsome figures are entirely disguised. The high HAWAIIAN WOMEN RIDERS AWA ROOT 97 est compliment a native can pay to a woman is to greet her with the salutation, "Momona mnaikai," which means "fat and good." This compliment is often paid even to very thin women. Both men and women, but the women especially, have a peculiar gait; when they walk they move all over with a kind of alternate swinging shoulder and hip motion. There is very little drunkenness here. No one is allowed to sell or give liquor to a native, and the only substitute they have is a nauseous decoction of awa root, a species of pepper plant, which is prepared thus: A group of young native girls sit together, crosslegged, upon mats, with a calabash in the center of the group. They chew the awa root between their strong white teeth until it is reduced to a pulp. When it reaches the proper consistency, they spit the juice into the calabash, and after a sufficient quantity of this has been produced water is added and the mass well stirred. After this has fermented, the liquor is poured off and drunk by the natives. This seems to be permitted or, if prohibited, it is made in spite of prohibitions. Its effects are powerful; it makes the natives foolish and very happy for a long time. They sing and then sleep; when the effects of the drink begin to wear off it is only necessary for them to bathe in the sea or to lie in any water and the intoxication of the awa juice returns and lasts nearly as long as at first. This is strange, but true, for I have seen them drink it and have seen the results. This liquor is also used 98 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU as a medicine to prevent cutaneous eruptions and to cure corpulency, I am told; and I should think that, as I have seen it made, it might at least be counted upon to destroy anyone's appetite! February 2I.-Smallpox is again apparently on the increase. Three days ago there were as many as 67 cases and today 22 new cases are reported, all in Honolulu. February 26.-The last few days have been uneventful, excepting for my drives, my callers and the flowers, fruits and other delicacies which my friends send. Nellie Fuller and Jennie Robertson are daily callers and sometimes read to me. Little Sadie Carter, Mrs. Dillingham, Mr. Coney and Della Bishop have also called. Mr. Coney has two very beautiful little daughters, with wonderful olive complexions and symmetrically perfect teeth. Today Dr. McGrew felt it safe to subject me to a careful examination, and he tells me that the middle lobe of my right lung is hardening or thickening and that my heart is somewhat affected. He gave me aconite and digitalis for my heart, cod-liver oil and phosphate of lime internally for my lungs, and he painted my chest with croton oil, which immediately made many vesicles. Otherwise he pronounced me in good condition! March 2.-Mr. Ferneau. a Boston artist, called today. THE RESIDENCE OF THE HON. SAMUEL M. DAEON, NUUANU AVENUE, HONOLULU, I88I MRS. DiAMON, MAY AND DOUGLAS LETTER TO FATHER 99 March 3.-I have received five letters from Father and numerous papers and valentines from home people. Today I have been writing home for more vaccine points. (Extract from a letter to amy Father under this date.) Mr. Damon has given me a home during my stay in Honolulu which I have accepted. I am glad to hear that you are busy, but don't overdo! It will only shorten your days, and I want you to live to be 99 like Grandfather Thomas, and in as good health as you are now. Mr. Joseph Carter of Brewer & Company has taken upon himself the responsibility of the firm in looking after me. When I had that hemorrhage a month ago, I had Dr. McGrew, who has treated me ever since, and is now giving me medicine to strengthen and fatten me. Mr. Carter, who has studied homeopathy, is giving me some of his medicine, which I take because he has been so kind. Honolulu has only one Dr. McGrew. He is one of the best men and, I believe, one of the richest men here, reputed to be worth $200,000 or more.... The view from my window while I am writing is beautiful. As I look at Mt. Tantalus, the rain is pouring on its peak and half way down and the sun shining brightly below. Trade winds come sweeping through Nuuanu Valley. A wide patch of grass stretches from my window and in it stands a big mango tree loaded with fruit and, in front of that, two orange trees. A large horseback party is just riding by and now and then a Parkav, or Chinaman, goes by heavily loaded with baskets on the ends of a long stick which rests across his shoulders. In the yard below my window and adjoining yards are numerous palm and monkey-pod trees, etc. 100 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU March 4.-The number of cases of smallpox continues to grow and I myself have been revaccinated. Mrs. Judd continues to send me some delicacy every day. It has rained for nearly a week and I am keeping pretty quiet. Mrs. Damon is devotion itself. She has hardly left my side since I have been ill, and Mrs. Judd and Nellie Fuller call daily to relieve her for a short time. March ro.-I was allowed to spend the morning at Mr. Joseph 0. Carter's and also to make a call on Mr. and Mrs. Frank Judd. March 12.-I called on Mrs. Bonner today and a Mr. and Mrs. Weston of Boston came with their son to tea at the Damons', also Mr. and Miss Burnham of Philadelphia. Mrs. Damon took me to lunch at her father-in-law's. Father Damon is a very interesting character, with great social powers and personal attraction, though he is often abrupt and impetuous in his manner. He is much beloved and is an impressive figure when walking in the streets of Honolulu. He is celebrated not only for his missionary work for the seamen, but for his deep interest in evangelical work for the Chinese here; and besides these he has many other interests. He has travelled widely in America, in Europe and in the Far East, as well as in Micronesia, and is a man of extensive reading and true culture, being especially interested in the works of Goethe and Confucius. His wife, who was a Miss Julia Sherman Mills, of Tor REV. SAMUEL C. DAMON 101 ringford, Connecticut, is a great social power in the Island. The Rev. Samuel Chenery Damon was born in Holden, Massachusetts, on February 15, 1815, the son of a prosperous merchant and manufacturer. He was graduated from Amherst College in 1836, and was a student at Princeton and at Andover Theological Seminary from 1838 to 1841. After his marriage, on October 6, 1841, he embarked with his wife for Honolulu. He arrived on March 19, 1842, and at once became Chaplain of the Bethel Union Church, built in 1833, which was at that time the only place of public worship for English-speaking people on the Island of Oahu. On January i, 1843, he commenced the publication of "The Friend," the oldest existing newspaper of the Pacific. It is very interesting to listen to Father Damon's tales of the early days here. Up to date, the mortality among the smallpox patients is 97 deaths out of 270, or over one-third of the patients taken to the Quarantine Hospital. i new cases were reported yesterday. Today Mr. H. A. P. Carter, as Minister of Interior, published an edict that no person shall depart from the Island of Oahu without written permission from the Board of Health, and warning the populace against carrying any person sick with smallpox from one point to another without proper authority. It is certainly important that the authorities should take every precaution, for history shows that the popu 102 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU lation of the Islands has fallen off most alarmingly in the last century. In an account of a visit to the Hawaiian Islands in I796, 1797 and 1798, which is given in a book published in Edinborough in i 8oo, the population of the Islands at that time is computed to have been 400,000, of which 60,200 were inhabitants of Oahu. The author speaks of a leprous disorder to which these people were liable. If this computation of the population is correct there must have been a terrible dying off of the natives after the advent of the white man. I do not know what the present population is, but the last census, taken in 1878, estimates the entire population of the Islands at 57,985, of whom 44,000 were native, 3400 half castes, 5900oo Chinese, 1200 Americans, 800 British, 400 Portuguese, 200 Germans and 8i French. The population of the Island of Oahu is given at 20,236, a falling off of over two-thirds of the number estimated at the beginning of the century; and the decrease in the other islands is seen to have been even greater. Many reasons have been given for the depopulation of the Islands. Diseases brought by foreigners were probably one of the main causes; the ravages of leprosy and of smallpox were terrific, but even these might have been resisted if the natives had been permitted to lead their normal lives. Instead of this, civilization has clothed them and shut them in houses, and their bodies, which in the old days became hardy from exposure and strengthened by breathing fresh air, were thus made delicate and susceptible to atmospheric SERIOUSLY ILL AGAIN 103 changes. Without clothes they were able to stand the frequent rains, but with wet clothing and wet shoes on bodies not used to exposure they succumbed to the "civilized" diseases. Their early grass houses were well-ventilated but with the advent of the mosquito, about 1830, they were often closed, or the inmates slept with their heads beneath the bedclothes to avoid these insects, so that the air became poisoned and their lungs suffered. I n 1848 about one-fourth of the natives died of measles and soon afterwards about 3000 of smallpox. I have already described the epidemic of 1853. By this time I think the white man is learning to make more effective the remedies for the diseases which he has introduced into these otherwise happy islands. Dr. Emerson is very busy. Today he went to the Pauoa Valley to investigate a murder by a Chinaman, and also to Waianae to attend Captain Rose, who was suffering from injuries inflicted by a Chinaman on his sugar plantation, who struck him with a hoe and broke his arm and several ribs. On March 14 I was taken seriously ill again, as a result of an attack of cholera morbus. For a week I had a very high temperature and part of the time I was delirious. Dr. McGrew called several times daily and found it necessary to give me large doses of morphine and other opiates to keep me quiet. In spite of their loyalty to me, my friends must have felt that my condition was too serious for them longer to take the responsibility of leaving my family in ignorance of my illness. The day after this last attack, 104 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU Mr. Joseph 0. Carter wrote my father without my knowledge: Honolulu, H. I. March I5, I88I. Lloyd Briggs, Esq., 82 Devonshire St., Boston,. Mass. Dear Sir: My excuse for addressing you is the esteem in which I hold your son. My friend Captain Newell introduced him to me and spoke so highly of him that I invited him to make my house his headquarters while he was here. My family have enjoyed his society and he has shown himself grateful for the privileges he has enjoyed. He has probably written you of an attack of bleeding with which he was taken while in my house and of his recovery. Soon after, he was taken with another attack while he was visiting my near neighbors, Mr. and Mrs. S. M. Damon, and has remained with them ever since. I regret to say that his last attack kept him confined to his bed for some ten days and left him quite weak, but as he gained strength so fast we felt encouraged and believed that he would soon be about again. At midnight of the I3th he was taken with an attack of nausea, which developed by morning so seriously that Dr. McGrew was sent for. Last evening I went over to see him twice and as he seemed no better I asked Mrs. Damon to call me unless he felt relieved. At half past one this morning Mrs. Damon called me and I went over and remained with him until half past four, when I left him comparatively comfortable. The nausea had been upon him all day and I have been with him again. He is now under the influence of morphia. Dr. McGrew does not fear any serious result from the attack, but as I felt that you ought to know the dear boy's condition I ques MRS, JOSEPH O. CARTER MR. JOSEPH 0. CARTER LETTER OF JOS. 0. CARTER 105 tioned Dr. McGrew, and it is his opinion that as soon as Vernon can travel he ought to start towards home. He arrived here in the beginning of a winter that has proved to be a very wet one and most trying to one in his condition. I am afraid he undertook too much in his tour as vaccinating officer around this island. He is certainly one of the most manly, independent, thoroughly good youths I ever made the acquaintance of. I only hope my sons may be as good and true. He has so far endeared himself to the Damons that they are doing all for him which the most loving, anxious parent could ask. I suggested this evening to Mrs. Damon that it was only right that some neighbor should take her place by his bedside for the night, but she replied, "I do not intend to leave him until he is relieved." She said, however, that she would call me in case of need. I told V. some days ago, before this attack, that I thought I ought to write to you, and he begged of me not to, saying that he would write all. He told me that his mother was of a very nervous temperament and any bad news would make her sick and cast the whole household down. But I write fronm a sense of duty-I have known what it is to have children abroad, one so ill that it was feared we should never see her again, but God dealt mercifully with us. I know the value of a good, friendly letter in such a season of trial, and so write. Vernon says that I remind him of you, and he has made it a practice to come to mne for advice as a good son should to a father. You will of course use judgment whether to communicate the whole of this story to his dear Mother and Sister. My heart goes out to you, for I know well the anxiety and suspense you will suffer. I do not intend to say to Vernon what the Doctor has told me, and think it best that you should advise him to come home on the strength of what he writes to you. In this way he will not 106 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU become alarmed. You might suggest that he leave here in May for San Francisco and then, upon his arrival, you might say to him to come home. I had to go over to S. F. to bring my child home, and well do I remember her joy on meeting me. If you could meet V. in San Francisco, it would be a good thing to do. You might then take advice as to whether a trip to Southern California would be of value to him. You will understand that I am only offering suggestions which may or may not be of value to you. Let me say to you to be of good cheer and thus hold the mother and sister up. I pray that you may be as mercifully dealt with as we have been-Our daughter is an invalid, but we have her with us to care for lovingly, and thus we are comforted. So may it be with you. From your letters which V. has read to me, I know that you lean upon our Father in Heaven-Bear hard upon His arm and He will sustain you. I remain, with much sympathy, Very truly yours, J. 0. CARTER. I sat up for the first time on March 2 i st, and again my friends rallied around me, bringing flowers and delicacies. I was greatly in need of their sympathy, for in my weakened condition it was hard to bear the sad news which reached me from home of the death of my dear friend, John B. McGarry, and that my sister's health was failing so that the family were very anxious about her. My journal says: March 2I.-... Of all the men on earth except my father I loved him the best.... I have decided that, as my own health will not permit me to continue K2 BRIGANTINE "MORNING STAR" 107 in my chosen profession here, I shall arrange to go to California as soon as possible and meet Velma and bring her to the Islands, hoping by that time to be able to resume my work as Government Physician, as I am assured this position will be held open for me. March 23.-I drove out today for the first time since my last illness, going to see Nellie Fuller off on the bark "Lady Lamson" for San Francisco. I shall miss her, as she has been most devoted and kind. The "Morning Star" is now in port. She arrived yesterday from a nine months' cruise among the Micronesian Islands. She sailed from Honolulu on June 21, i880, and has visited most of the islands of the Gilbert group, also the Caroline and Marshall Islands. She landed some missionaries in the Gilbert Islands, and there found the brig "Hazard." Captain Bray, of the "Morning Star," gave an interesting sketch of her cruise yesterday at the Fort Street Church, but I was not able to attend. March 24.-Mrs. Damon drove me out to Punahau this morning and this afternoon Mr. Ferneaux called on me. I have been writing Father about future plans. Honolulu, H. I., March 25, i88i. My dear Father, I have written by the "Zelandia" to you, the "Hesperian" to Mother and the "Lady Lamson" to Velma, all of which vessels sailed on the 23rd; and now I am writing to you 108 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU again by the "W. H. Meyer," which is expected to sail tomorrow. After Hattie's death, you know Velma and I went to the White Mountains, and you know what a lot of good it did her. You will also remember that she lost most of the gain she had made when she came back to Hanover-partly because it was so lonely for her there. In my mind there is only one objection to her joining me in California, and that is her leaving you and Mother, but I believe you will get along all right, as you are busy. If God so ordains it that I can not do anything at present, what can I do but feel resigned! If I could go to the other islands and occupy my mind, I would gladly do it, but to stay in Honolulu in its present unhealthy condition, with yellow flags flying in every direction and smallpox patients being carted through the streets in open express wagons-often two or three in a wagon-to the hospital on the Reef, is not pleasant. It is not because I am afraid of smallpox that I speak in this way, but because I am not allowed, on account of my health, to do anything about it; and general business is prostrated, schools closed and no one allowed to enter or leave Honolulu. The city is accessible in four ways: by water and by three mountain passes, none of the three being as wide as Washington Street (Boston). A posse is stationed at each pass, and the Harbor is guarded. To crown all, the plague is not on the decrease, but rather on the increase at present. The Chinamen in the quarantine-nearly Iooo-are getting rebellious. Yesterday they refused to let the authorities take two of their number who had broken out with smallpox, and the Royal Militia were ordered out to quiet them. I give these facts, and I could state many more to show you that this city is not a good place to live in at present. There is plenty for me to do, and I have offers of several positions-and good ones-if Dr. McGrew would allow me LETTER TO FATHER 109 to take them; I am sure I could return here any time during the next five or ten years to a good position. Should I grow decidedly worse in California, the Islands will still remain; if I grow perfectly well and wish to return, the Islands will still be here; in either case, whether I am worse or better, my home in the Sandwich Islands will still remain. And should we all travel together, we will have plenty of homes here. The principal families are all very cordial. "Mfake my house your home," "Come and live with us," they say, and they mean it. This will always be a port of refuge for all of us, should anything happen to you; if you should lose what you have, we need have no thought of the future if we can get to these Islands. I am still at Mr. Samuel Damon's. Both he and his wife have devoted themselves to making me well, and Mrs. Damon has nursed me like a baby. When I told them that I thought I had better go to California, Mr. Damon said that he had been intending to send his wife and children to San Francisco for two months, and that they would not now get off until I went, in May. I think I ought to stay in San Francisco as long as Mrs. Damon is to be there. In addition to the many other things which they have done for me, either Mr. or Mrs. Damon has lomti-loimied me almost every night during the many weeks that I have been with them; and although I am doing nicely now-I am feeling first-rate-yet they continue their attentions. I have only been out three evenings after dark for over six weeks, and I go to bed by nine every night. I have not decided whether I shall go to San Francisco by sailing vessel or by steamer. I will write more about my plans after arriving in San Francisco. Don't, for the world, ever take it into your head to sell our Hanover home, for it is dear to me. Ever your loving son, VERNON. 110 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU Two days later I wrote again: Honolulu, March 27, I88I. My dear Father, I have sent letters to Mother and Velma by different sailing vessels, and this goes by the steamer "City of New York," which has just arrived two weeks behind time. I am now recovered from my attack of cholera nworbus, and am gaining very fast. I requested Dr. McGrew to write you of my condition, which I suppose he has done. I thought you would feel much better to hear about me from the physician himself. Please write me what the Doctor really says to you! After consulting Brewer & Company and others, I have decided to go to California. Dr. McGrew is in two minds: first, he wants me to give this climate a fair trial by remaining two months longer; second, he thinks that the trip to the coast and the change to California would perhaps do me good. So I have decided to stay here nearly two months from the time he first told me his opinion, starting about May io or I5, and arriving in San Francisco between May 20 and 30. I suppose it would be more satisfactory to you if I should state my reasons: Mr. Joseph Carter advises strongly in favor of my going; Honolulu is quarantined and no one allowed to leave, excepting to go to the coast, on account of the unhealthy condition of the Island. When I wrote before that I had better remain, I did not mean in Honolulu; I intended to go to some other island. But now, on account of the smallpox, no one is allowed to go to the other islands from here. The rainy season commenced a few weeks ago in earnest. Then, I am having so many good offers of positions that it frets me to refuse them all and do nothing to occupy my mind. General business is fearfully dull, and some of the business men downtown say they are thinking LETTER TO FATHER III of shutting up shop and helping the physicians on the smallpox. The Chinamen are in a fearful stew; they think the Government is going to take them off on an island where the waves will come and wash them into the sea. In consequence of this and many other ideas they have, they are making a great deal of disturbance. About 1700 of them defied the town night before last, and Governor Dominis ordered out the militia, who fired a couple of volleys into them, after which they dispersed. Another very strong reason for my going to California is my hope of meeting my little sister Velma. My plan is to arrive in San Francisco about May 20, and telegraph you of my arrival. By that time you will have decided whether or not you will let her come —of course you will. So you will then telegraph me on what train you are going to send her. I want her in San Francisco, so don't write me to wait until I get to Los Angeles!... I know it will be hard for you and Mother to part with Velma even for a time, but if you go as far as New York with her, and then you and Mother stay in New York or go to \Washington for your vacation, I think you could stand it. I don't think it best for Mother to go back to Hanover until July I, and then only for a short time. If you are strongly opposed to my leaving, let me know; but I think my plans will turn out well, for I have considered everything. Write immediately to Honolulu on receiving this. With much love to you all, VERNON. March/ 27.-The steamer "City of New York" arrived this morning from Australia, being two weeks behind on account of having broken her crank-pin. She left for San Francisco this afternoon, and I went 112 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU with the Damons to see some friends off, including Mrs. Bonner and her children, Mr. and Mrs. Weston, Mr. and Miss Burnham and Miss Annie Parke. March 29.-Dr. McGrew gave me today a tumor and an aneurism for study, and he has told me I may use his library. I am assisting him again. I make all his tinctures and he usually takes me with him when he is going to operate and often just for a drive when he is making his rounds. April i.-The brigantine "North Star," the American barkentine "Eureka," the missionary brigantine "Morning Star," the barks "Kalakaua," "D. C. Mur, ray" and "Lady Lamson" are in port. Many whaling captains or shipmasters still visit this port, and during the last month Captains Manter, Campbell, Owens, George Smith and Wing have been seen in town. Father Damon says that it is not many years since one could see a fleet of 200 vessels, mostly whalers, riding at anchor in Honolulu Harbor. The old whaling bark "Morning Star" (not the well-known missionary brigantine of that name, which is now in the harbor), which alone took more than $i,ooo,ooo worth of sperm oil and bone into New Bedford, was a regular visitor. In the early days, when shore leave was given to the crews of whalers in port, the population of Honolulu was increased by over night visits from a motley company of men, whose only idea of pleasure was drinking, dancing and singing with the lower elements of YjARLY SHIPWRECKS 13 the native women. Certain locations in and about Honolulu were considered more dangerous than others, even by the sailors, and they dubbed these points "Cape Horn," "Icy Cape," C"Cape of Good Hope," "Japan Sea," etc. After the whaling fleet had sailed away, there was stagnation in town for some time. Honolulu has long been a port of refuge to vessels in distress, and I have been interested in looking up a list of casualties to American ships, and have made the following notes of those whose crews were brought to Honolulu: In September, i859, the crew of the American ship "Mastiff," which was wrecked at sea, were brought to this port by the British ship "Achilles." The next year the U.S.S. "Levant" left Honolulu, never to be heard from afterwards. In May, i862, the American brig "Mary Capen" put into Honolulu for repairs, and in September of the same year the American ship "Leonidas" also put in for repairs. (This was probably the same ship "Leonidas" which was built on the North River, at Hanover, Massachusetts, in i8o,6, and sold to New Bedford for a whaler.) The American barkentine "Jenny Ford" was lost in January i864, while trading with Honolulu, as was also the American ship "Arno," and the American ship "Buena Vista" put into Honolulu about that time for repairs. In 1865 the American ship "Monsoon" was lost off Howland's Island, where many of our vessels have perished, and her crew was brought to Honolulu. The following year the schooner "Forward," of New London, was lost at sea, and in i867 the Americail whale bark "Andrews" was lost in Cumberland Inlet, and the American ship "Othello" arrived in port leaking badly. In i869 the American bark "J. W. 114 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU Seaver," the ship "Lorenzo" and the bark "Almena" put into Honolulu in distress, and the American whale bark "Eagle" was lost on Sea Horse Island and the "Morning Star" was lost on Howland's Island. In 1870 the American bark "Sterling" put into Honolulu in distress, as did the brig "Curlew" and the brig "Francisco" the following year, when also the American steamer "Nevada" collided with the bark "A. H. Badger'; and later the whaling brig "Byzantium" was lost in the Weynton Passage, and the American brig "Shelehoff" was dismasted in a cyclone. On October 23, 1871, news was brought of the loss of most of the Whaling Fleet which yearly found their way into Honolulu to replenish their stores and give their sailors shore leave. 33 of the Arctic Fleet of whalers out of 40 were abandoned in the ice; amlong them were the "Massachusetts," the "Comet," the "Florida," the "Reindeer," the "Seneca," the "Fannie," the "Mary," the "MAinerva" and the "William Rotch." In I873 the American ship "Coringa" and the ship "Marianne Nottebohm" put into port in Honolulu for repairs; the American ship "Syren" brought in the crew of the wrecked British ship "Gallatin" and the American ship "Gatherer" reported the loss of the British bark "Jessie Scot." In May 1879, the American barkentine "Joseph Perkins" was wrecked off Kahului Harbor. There are now many vessels registered in Honolulu, deep sea sailers, as well as coasting vessels. April 3, Sunday.-I have not been to church for about two months, because of illness. The bark "Edward May," sister ship of the "Amy Turner," arrived yesterday, 122 days from Boston. SHIPPING NEWS 115 I do not feel well, am having a great deal of pleurisy, but try to ride each day. I have been making syrups, tinctures and spirits all day for Dr. McGrew. April 4.-It interests me to read the shipping news in my many leisure hours: The whaling bark "Abram Barker" sailed from here today on a cruise. The whaling bark "J. A. Howland" has taken oo00 barrels of sperm and 200 barrels of whale oil, according to a letter from her commander, Captain Handy, who is naturally proud of his success. Captain Gifford, of the bark "A. A. Tucker," reports having taken 40 barrels of sperm oil since leaving Teneriffe. Captain Smith, of the "Lucretia," reports off Guago with 2200 barrels of sperm oil. The bark "James Allen," Captain Lake, sailed from Chili on a cruise home, having taken only four small right whales, making 400 barrels of oil. The bark "Grace May," Captain Ray, in 10 months, has taken 850 barrels of oil, while the bark "Josephine," Captain Long, has 135 barrels at the end of five months. The steam whaler "Mary Ellen" has been sold to the United States Governmlent and will cruise in search of the "Jeanette." The bark "Edward May," Captain Johnson,* is lying at the wharf unloading. She sailed from Boston Nov. 30, I880, and reports that her crew were employed shovelling snow from the deck and breaking ice from the rigging the first two days out; she was I2 days rounding Cape Horn. April 5.-I rode horseback today to Waikiki, on the beautiful blooded mare which Mr. Cummins loaned me * Capt. Chas. A. Johnson is living in Stratham, N. H.-Aug. 1926 -aged 94, hale and hearty after spending 57 years of his life on the ocean. 116 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU and which Mr. Damon keeps for me in his stable, and I greatly enjoyed the ride. When I got there I sat on the wide bathing beach and watched the surf-riders at their perilous sport. The native rider uses a long, narrow board, about i8 inches wide and eight feet long, slightly hollowed in the center and rounded at the ends. This board is usually made from the wood of the erethrina, stained black and preserved with great care. After being used, it is placed in the sun till perfectly dry; then it is rubbed over with cocoanut oil, and sometimes wrapped in a cloth, and suspended in some part of the owner's dwelling. The biri-biri, another wood from which some of the boards are made, is light and easily grown; a stick of it stuck in the ground soon takes root and blossoms with a blaze of scarlet. Surf-riding is spoken of by the earliest visitors to these islands. The native takes to it as a duck to water, but for the untrained it is dangerous and often fatal. The place chosen for this sport is generally where the rocks are Io to 20 feet under water and extend to a distance from the shore, as the surf breaks more easily over these. Each native takes his board and, pushing it before him, swims a quarter of a mile or more out to sea. He does not attempt to go over the waves which roll toward him, but dives under the water and lets the billows pass over his head. When he reaches the point outside of the rocks where the waves first break, each rider adjusts himself on the end of his board, standing upright without any support whatever and, watching for the approach of the SURF RIDING 117 largest wave, he so balances himself as to ride in on its crest in the midst of spray and foam until within a yard or two of the shore, where the observer might expect him to be dashed to pieces-but he slides off his board, grasps it in the middle, and dives under the waves again. The greatest skill is necessary in order to keep on the crest of the wave; if he loses his balance and falls backward or forward, the plank will be thrown up and strike his head with such force as to stun or even to kill him.-He might almost as well be killed outright as be stunned in IO to 20 feet of water. Waikiki Bay is where Captain Vancouver anchored. It lies to the west of the southern promontory of the island, which is called by the white people Diamond Head. Kamehameha I formerly had his residence at Waikiki, and his navy was hauled up on the shore around the Bay. Archibald Campbell, writing in 1808, says: "I counted more than 30 vessels. They are kept with the utmost care, having sheds built over them, their spars laid alongside and their rigging and cables preserved in stores. They are chiefly sloops and schooners under 40 tons burden, and have all been built by his own (native) carpenters, under the direction of an Englishman named Boyd. He (Kamehameha) possesses one ship of about 200 tons called the 'Ladybird,' an American vessel, which arrived in leaky condition from California, and which he purchased from the captain. She was laid up at Hanaroora (Honolulu) alongside of a wharf built for the purpose. Her captain, who was also a pilot, was named James Hairbottle." 1 18 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU At Waikiki I also watched the natives catching sharks off the beach. The shark comes to shallow water to sleep, heading toward the shore with an outgoing tide. While he is asleep, a native dives with a rope, usually made of cocoanut fiber, and slipping a noose over the shark's tail and bringing it up the back to the fins, he swims ashore with the other end of the rope, which he hands to a group of his companions, who pull taut the noose and land the shark on the beach. Diamond Head, or Lea/i, juts into the sea beyond the beautiful beach of Waikiki. It is a prominent feature on the southern coast of Oahu, although the highest point is only 762 feet. It is an extinct volcano, circular in shape, and said to have been named for sparkling gems formerly found there and supposed to be diamonds; but this is simply a tradition. Probably it was called Diamond Head from its shape. April 8.-I rode to Moanalua today and was chased by a wild bull on my way home, which frightened my horse so that he became unmanageable and dashed into Honolulu and through the center of the town, where the bit broke and I was powerless either to restrain or to guide him. Ahead of me there suddenly appeared a man, making his way as quickly as he could to the middle of the street and waving his hands in a most foolhardy manner. In a moment, in spite of my efforts, my horse struck him and laid him low. We were near the wharves, and this tragedy, together with the NUUANU` AVENUE, i88o DIAMOND HEAD, OAHTT,i880 SERIOUS ACCIDENT 119 fact that I saw that my horse was headed for the water, stirred me to a desperate effort to get the reins around his nose. In this I was successful, and by pulling with all my might, I so turned his head that he was guided into the back of a low dray, and the sudden impact threw me off. The driver grabbed the horse, and leaving him in this man's charge, I ran back to the man who had been knocked down, and found that he was already being put into an express wagon, in which I accompanied him to the hospital. He was very drunk, which is probably why he was so foolhardy. At the hospital he was found to have a broken leg. It appears he is well known about town as a man who is drunk most of the time, begging or doing a little work to get enough money to keep him in liquor-a worthless individual who has been a nuisance for many years. I assumed the expense incident to his care and treatment at the hospital, and when I left he was comfortably in bed, with his leg set, partaking of a bowl of soup. A few days ago, while riding in the extinct crater of Diamond Head, with Emma Whitny I think it was, we were chased across the crater and out of it by a wild boar. April 7.-Rode horseback up the Nuuanu Valley to the Pali. April 8.-I spent today, when not busy with Dr. McGrew, on board the bark "Edward May," with Captain Johnson and his wife. 120 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU April o1.-I spent today with Billy Austin at Kalihi. Nuuanu Valley, Honolulu, April ii, I88i. My dear, dear Papa, I received letters from home and many Easter cards. For the last two weeks I have been back at Dr. McGrew's, making tinctures and syrups for him and helping him generally. I take a horseback ride every day on a beautiful large horse. I think it would be better for me to be nearer home. You see, when I am getting on nicely and picking up fast-seem to be getting along well-all of a sudden and without any imprudence on my part, I have another pull-back. I want to have Velma with me, both for her sake and for mine. I think you understand me perfectly; that is why I have laid plans as I have. I think I understand the art of travelling very well.. I have just had another offer, which I might accept if I were well enough, to go as physician and surgeon on the steam whaler "Belvidere" on a cruise to the Arctic Ocean. Dr. McGrew told me that nothing would please him more than to have me go, if I were only a little stronger. The offer came through him, and he considered it for a few days, then told me no, on account of my health. I weigh 13552 pounds. You must not worry about me. Take good care of yourself. Your devoted son, VERNON. April 12.-The town is full of Australians, as the steamship "Zelandia" is in. I went on board her. I am sending home by Miss Cora Wade who sails on her, a birthday present for father, a box containing a native canoe, with outriggers, such as you see around L. VERNON BRIGGS, APRIL 19, I88i PICTURE TAKEN 121 these islands. It is made of sandalwood grown here, and is carved by an old native. I am also sending cotton pods, pictures, shells, feathers, etc., in which I know the family will be interested. April I5, Good Friday.-Mrs. Damon and I went to the Bethel Church, where a service of prayer was held for the Hawaiian natives now being visited by a plague. Smallpox does not seem to decrease, but remains about the same. I lunched with Willy Allen. [Col. IW. F. Allen, Collector of the Port of Honolulu.] April I7, Easter Sunday.-Mrs. Damon took me to the Fort Street Church this evening. The U. S. Man-of-War "Wachusett," in search of the "City of New York," arrived off Honolulu today, evidently having missed that steamer on the way from San Francisco. April 19.-Had my picture taken today, but I don't like the proofs very well. I have letters from home by the ship "Discovery," which arrived yesterday, and presents of a black-and-white necktie and a watchchain from my dear father. I went to see the "Edward May" off today, and sent by her answers to my letters. The Damons have been so kind! I plan to buy them a handsome present when I get to San Francisco. April 24, Sunday.-I went to Dr. McGrew's to dinner, and called on Mrs. Jennings and Miss Jennings 122 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU and on Mr. and Mrs. Henry MacFarland; and I rode horseback to Moanalua, where I visited Princess Ruth's place and went to see Mr. S. Kaai. There have been, up to date, nearly 700 cases of smallpox and over 226 deaths. I am vaccinating about five or six members of the Honolulu families daily, usually at Dr. McGrew's office. I did not at this time know of Mr. Joseph 0. Carter's letter to my father nor that Mr. Damon had also written to him during my illness. The following letter from my father, which was given to me by Mr. Carter's daughter after his death, speaks for itself as to Father's feelings. His letters to me in all this time had been most affectionate, and trusting to a degree seldom shown by a parent to a boy of my age. Boston, April 20, i881. To Joseph Carter, Esq., Honolulu, H. I. MAy very dear friend:(For such you certainly are.) I shall thank you from the bottom of my heart for what I have to thank no other person on that most hospitable island-that is, doing just what my dear, sick boy did not want you to do. I do not wonder he says you remind him of his father, as no one could write such a letter who had not felt the same keen anguish that has weighted me down for the last three years. My first-born darling daughter lived in me, and has left me; and now, while my grief is just as fresh as the day she died, how can I lose my beautiful, good, pure and only boy! What a comfort to know that he is so kindly cared for and watched over! He could not have more done for him if he were at home-only it would be home. I know you LLOYD BRIGGS, ESQ. 123 all do everything freely and cheerfully, but you know he can not help feeling under obligations. God will reward you-We never can repay you for all the great kindness you have shown him. We think he is almost perfect, but we do not expect everyone else to have the same opinion, for we are prejudiced in his favor. I am not, however, surprised that he is liked, for he has always made strong friends wherever he has been. Again thanking you with all my heart for letting me know just how he is, and not blaming him for begging you not to write, and hoping you will continue to advise him and look after him for our sakes, I remain, Most truly yours, LLOYD BRIGGS. Father wrote me on March 3, i88i, having received my own account of my illness and Dr. McGrew's letter to him: AMy very dear, dear boy, Your very welcome letter, dated February I3, was received last night, and we read it and reread it with feelings of pleasure and pain. We did hope you would not have another hemorrhage, but you are in the Lord's hands and we will trust in Him. We are very thankful for the encouraging words of Dr. McGrew, and if he feels that by keeping you longer in Honolulu he can, wvith the aid of the climate, heal the place in your lungs, don't hesitate for one moment to (lo everything to accomplish that. We will sacrifice everything else. You are there, and if he thinks he can cure you, be sure to follow his advice-unless your good sense assures you that you had better pursue some other course. We are very, very glad that you had the courage to refuse such a tempting offer, which offer is truly wonderful 124 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU for a boy of 17 years old. It is something remarkable, and the esteem in which you are held there seems to be purely on your own merits. I can but be proud of such a boy, and well I know how it cut you to refuse such a chance. But you went there for your health. If such chances open to you without seeking when you are a mere boy, you will do well enough when you have gained your health and are a few years older. Go to God in all your trials and all your disappointments and all sorrows, and if you have faith in His promises you will find comfort. I am glad to believe that you do. We all want to see you and to have you nearer, but we want you to get well above all things. Don't use any of your money for your living; draw on me for everything you want. No draft from you has reached me yet. We have had fearful weather all over the U. S., with snow as far south as South Carolina. Mother and Velma will write the news. May God bless and keep you! Take care of yourself in every way, and don't overdo. We are all well. With love, from LLOYD BRIGGS. I do not find Mr. Carter's reply to my father's letter. Father must have written to Mr. Damon about the same time, and Mr. Damon's reply was as follows: Honolulu, April 26, i88i. L. Briggs, Esq., Notary, Boston, Mass. Dear Sir: I have much pleasure in owning receipt of your favor by last steamer, and next to having the pleasure of meeting you on her arrival was the receipt of your letter. LLOYD BRIGGS, ESQ. I HON. S. M. DAMON 125 To myself you are under no obligations, for Mrs. Damon, Mr. Carter and some of your son's friends have done all that has been done for him. The only thing that you might possibly lay to my charge is providing Vernon with a horse, which in this country does not go far, as the more horses a person owns the poorer he is. At one time we all felt very much alarmed about Vernon's situation and earnestly wished you or some of your family were here. The weather was not very pleasant and everything seemed against him. With fair weather and the attention of the many friends he has won here, he has continued to mend very rapidly and now takes a long ride almost every day, and he very seldom coughs and never raises blood to my knowledge. I feel the danger of his leaving a warm climate like the Islands' and facing the cold winds of California. He knows his own plans best, however, and as we wish everyone to have their own way I have not discouraged him in any way. Mrs. Damon will go to the coast-I think in the same steamer with your son-and will take with her all the family except her father and myself. Whenever you can find time to take a run to this freeand-easy country, drop me a line and I will be on hand to meet you. With kind regards to Mrs. Briggs and your daughter, 1 am, Yours truly, S. MI. DAMON. CHAPTER VII DR. MCGREW'S ASSISTANT AGAIN-THE ROYAL FAMILYPRINCESS RUTH TAKEN ILL IN CHURCH-UNUSUAL TREATMENT-PREPARING TO LEAVE THESE BEAUTIFUL ISLANDS-LAST RIDE BEFORE LEAVING-SAIL FOR SAN FRANCISCO ON SS. CITY OF SYDNEY —KALUA APPEARS AT HOUR OF SAILING-STORMY WEATHER —ARRIVAL SAN FRANCISCO WITH MANY HONOLULU FRIENDSMILLS SEMINARY, BROOKLYN-MOTHER AND SISTER ARRIVE AND JOIN PARTY CONSISTING OF MRS. DAMON, MRS. H. A. P. CARTER AND OTHERS AT GRAND HOTEL -SAN RAFAEL-RESULTS OF VACCINATING ON OAHU April 29.-I have been vaccinating daily at Dr. McGrew's. On the 26th I vaccinated six persons, on the 27th five persons, on the 28th four persons, etc. Dr. McGrew and I visited the U. S. Man-of-War "Pensacola," Admiral Stevens. I called on Miss Nettie Andrews. April 30-I took my horse and joined a riding party with the Misses Nettie and Emma Andrews, Miss Lillie Baldwin and Messrs. Cone and Oats, to the Paley place, where we got some oranges and coffee sticks. It is fearfully hot! I heard today that George C. Gilman, one of my chums in Boston, had shipped before the mast on the whaler "William H. Grozier," of Provincetown. 126 KING KALAKAUA 127 May 7.-Today I visited again the old derelict whom my horse knocked down when he ran away. I have seen him every few days, but not until today did I ask for the bill for his expenses at the hospital. I found that it amounted to less than $Soo, partly because, after his leg was in a splint and he could get about on crutches, he was able to do many little helpful things about the hospital. They have now asked him to become an orderly and remain there permanently. He cleans the floors, the cuspidors, etc., relieving the nurses of much of the rougher part of their labor. I have kept him well supplied with tobacco, which he uses mainly for chewing; and after his enforced rest this has proved such a substitute for liquor that he never asks for drink and seems contented and happy; he says that the accident was the best thing that ever happened to him and appears to be entirely cured of his alcoholism. May 8.-I have been busy all this week preparing to leave the Islands and meet my mother and sister in California. I am disappointed not to have seen the King, who has been absent from Oahu except for about two days of the time that I have been here. He is a man of many friends, who say that he is "very much a king" and that "no one thinks of presuming with him." He is about 50 years old and was elected King in 1874, the family of Kamehamehas having become extinct in the male line with Kamehameha V. 128 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLIUILU Kamehameha I, born in 1737, known as Kamehameha the Great and as the Conqueror, ruled from 1782 to 1819. He was succeeded by four other monarchs of the same name, Kamehamehas II, III, IV and V. Lunalilo was then made King, but ruled for only a short year, and was succeeded by the present King. David Kalakaua, although reigning, has not yet been crowned. Great preparations are already being made for the coronation, which is to take place after he has returned from his trip around the world. At the time of his accession to the throne there was a serious uprising on the part of the followers of the dowager Queen Emma, widow of Kamehameha IV, who felt that she should succeed to the throne. An angry mob thronged the streets, demanding that she be made Queen, but they were finally quieted, largely through the calmness and presence of mind of Mr. J. O. Carter, who was then a comparatively young man, but respected and beloved by all. With great dignity he assumed the leadership and dominated the mob, compelling them to retire and allow the ceremonies to proceed. Although Kalakaua was legally elected by the Nobles of the Kingdom and the Representatives of the Hawaiian people-and by an overwhelming majority-there is still much feeling of hostility to him by the partizans of his rival, Queen Emma. His consort, Queen Kapiolani, is said to be of nobler blood than her husband; her grandfather was the last King of Kauai. She does not speak English and goes but little into society. PRINCESS LIKILIKI 129 The King's eldest sister, the Princess Lydia Kamekaeha (Liliuokalani), acts as sole regent during his absence. She visited Boston in 1876 and her husband is an American, Mr. John Owen Dominis. Mr. Dominis has been made Governor of Oahu and Maui; he has a good income and little to do. A much younger sister, the Princess Likiliki, Mrs. Archibald Scott Cleghorn, lives at Waikiki, and her daughter, the Princess Victoria Kaiulani, now about five or six years old, is Heiress Presumptive. She has an English governess and is to be sent to England to be educated. Both Mrs. Dominis and Mrs. Cleghorn also had an English education. Although they live in European style, being full-blooded natives themselves they have no end of native followers, including a number of hula-hula dancers. The last representatives of the Kamehameha line are the Dowager Queen Emma, the Princess Ruth and the Princess Bernice Pauahi (Mrs. Bishop). They are in receipt of a permanent grant from the Treasury of $25,000 a year. Queen Emma is now 45 years old. She is part-white. Her grandfather was John Young, an Englishman, who was taken prisoner by Kamehameha I, the Napoleon of Hawaii, when he landed on the Island in 1790. Young later came into favor and is said to have organized the King's army. He was naturalized and given great honors for his services to the King and married a native of high rank. They had two daughters, one of whom, Fanny, married a native Hawaiian prince named Naea, and these 130 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU were the parents of Queen Emma. When her father died she was adopted by her aunt's husband, Dr. Rooke, and afterwards became the consort of Kamehameha IV. She now lives in a fine residence, surrounded by beautiful gardens, at the corner of Hotel and Nuuanu Streets. Her Majesty is a gracious and accomplished lady; she has been twice in England and has received much attention and many presents from Queen Victoria. She dresses beautifully and would pass at any American watering place as a handsome brunette. She lives and entertains generally like a European, but occasionally gives receptions in the native style. Her sister-in-law, the Princess Ruth Keelikolani, sister of Kamehameha IV, is a stout native chiefess, who never indulges in European customs, habits or society. When she entertains in her enormous house and grounds, it is always a luatua, to which hundreds are invited; and there is no end of poi and pig. Then the Royal Band plays, the hula-hula girls make merry and everyone eats and drinks, dances, sings and talks and eats again, in true native style, while Ruth looks contented and happy and sees that the pig and poi are frequently replenished and that the hula-hula girls keep busy and do not lack refreshments. Princess Ruth was once Governor of Hawaii and is the richest native of her time. The Princess Bernice Pauahi, wife of Mr. Charles R. Bishop, the leading banker, is much occupied with benevolent work, especially for erring women. Many PRINCESS RUTH 131 is the now respectable and happy family in Honolulu whose parents would never have been married and whose mother would have been neglected and left to a life of shame but for her influence. This is particularly true of the half-whites, in whom she is especially interested. My kind host, the Honorable S. M. Damon, is her most valued adviser. His influence is seen in the arrangement of her house and grounds, as well as in the management of her financial and charitable affairs. This morning I went to the Kawaiahao Church with Mrs. Dominis, the Princess Regent while Kalakaua is away. In the middle of the service the Princess Ruth, whose pew was much nearer the front than that of Mrs. Dominis, arose and, walking to the rear of the church, lay down on her back in the middle of the aisle and, calling a boy about eight years old, she told him in "native" to lomi-lomi her abdomen with his feet. She is enormous, weighing something over 300 pounds. (She was obliged to have a barouche made so that it required but the raising of her foot four or five inches to walk into it and be seated.) The boy stepped upon her abdomen and trotted around on it, kneading it with his feet, until she was apparently relieved from whatever pain she had been suffering. She then directed him to dismount and arose and returned to her pew, where she sat quietly during the rest of the service, which had not been interrupted by this incident. 132 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU May 9.-The steamer "City of Sydney" arrived today from Australia, en route for San Francisco. I got my "permission"-a sort of passport, allowing me to leave the port. Mrs. Damon and her daughter May are to travel with me as far as San Francisco. We sail tomorrow morning. May io.-I rose early this morning, determined to have a last ride on my beautiful mare and a last look at the Island where so much has happened in the five months since I arrived on the "Amy Turner" and where I have made so many kind friends. My ride ended at the wharf, where my luggage had already been sent to the steamer "City of Sydney." Before I could dismount, a little native boy Io or 11 years old ran up to me and begged me to take him with me. At first I could not remember where I had seen him before, but finally recognized him as the boy who had cooked my supper when I was at Ewa and who had served me so nicely when I spent the night there on my first trip around the Island. Of course I could not grant his request, and when I told him it was impossible, he buried his face between my leg and the horse, as I sat in the saddle, and sobbed piteously. I hated to disappoint him, for he had evidently had perfect faith that his plea would be granted, but what could I do with him if I did take him? I do not even know his people nor where he comes from. All I really know of him is that during the latter part of my vaccination trip he was devoted to me and that he N...... Nt LEAVING HONOLULU 133 seemed to have some relationship to Kahawai, the policeman who accompanied me. Whether this was a blood relationship or merely a friendly interest I never knew, but Kahawai behaved in a fatherly manner toward him, and I thought little about his being with us except to look upon him as a most friendly and unusually bright little boy who seemed to be always wanting to do something for me. A feeling of sadness came over me as I left him standing on the wharf and smiling through his tears; but I had to smile too, and wave to all the good friends who had come to see me sail, with kind wishes for my welfare and happiness. It is a beautiful, clear day. We sailed out of the Harbor at i i.50, and the strains of sweet music from the Hawaiian Band followed us until we had passed out of hearing, so that my last memory of beautiful Honolulu is of "Aloha Oe." The "City of Sydney" is a screw steamer of 3009 tons, and has engines of 400 horse power. Captain Dearborn is Commander and Dr. Soule the ship's physician. The steamer is so crowded that I have got to sleep on the table in a place called the "social hall"; there was only one available stateroom, which was given to Mrs. H. A. P. Carter. At first the Captain said he would take no passengers, but after consulting with Dr. McGrew and others he consented to take cabin passengers but no steerage. There are about 360 people aboard and they have to sleep wherever they can find room. Dr. McGrew continued his kindness to 134 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU me to the last moment, and gave me a letter to the purser. May II.-A beautiful day, but we have a swell which has made all the other passengers seasick. Even I was a little seasick last night but now I am feeling fine. May I2.-278 miles. Another fine day. There are several French counts on board; also a circus, with a menagerie and two dwarfs, called Baron Littlefinger and Count Rosebud. May I3.-277 miles and still pleasant. Just before we left Honolulu, two Java mina-birds, somewhat smaller than robins, flew to the rigging, where they are still living, coming down occasionally for crumbs. May 14.-262 miles. Squally, with light winds which are N.E. and N.E. by E. I had my first hemorrhage from the lungs one year ago today-For me, what an eventful year! May 15.-235 miles. Stormy weather, with a heavy breeze and a high sea. May i6.-The sea is mounting very high and it is very rough. People are rolling about in all directions. It is impossible to sleep on the table or side seats, so the officers have had some mattresses put on the floor of the "social hall," where many of us are sleeping. 229 miles today and at noon we were in Latitude 34~ 19', HONOLULU HARBOR, I881 IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN 135 Longitude 132 28'. The sea is so heavy that fears are entertained that the propeller will break. May I7.-247 miles today and still very rough. At 10.30 this evening we were making 3,I/2 knots. I have been given a berth in the stateroom of an Australian, but Mrs. Damon, her children and the other Honolulu passengers, about 30 in number, are still sleeping on sofas and seats attached to the sides of the ship-when the weather allows them to do so. The steamer rolls and rolls and it is laughable to see the passengers tipped up and rolled about. May 18, Wednesday.-Foggy. 290 miles. Birds called divers are quite plenty about the ship, and this morning at about 11.30 we passed the Ferralone Islands. At noon we took a pilot and entered the Golden Gate of this golden country. This evening we are lying in San Francisco Bay, awaiting the decision of the Board of Health as to whether or not we shall be quarantined. We have no smallpox aboard but, as we come from an infected port, they want to hold us six days. I shall at least have to sleep on board tonight. May I9.-I came ashore this morning and took rooms at the Grand Hotel on Montgomery Street, San Francisco. I soon learned that "Aunt" Sophia Stetson-who is really my mother's cousin, wife of Alpheus M. Stetson of Boston-was stopping at the Palace Hotel, just across the street, and I called 136 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU promptly upon her. The two hotels are joined by a bridge. Mrs. Damon and her family are here as my guests, and Mrs. H. A. P. Carter, Mrs. Kinney and Miss Dickson, all of Honolulu, are stopping here, as well as Mr. Weston and Mr. T. C. Severance of Boston. Mr. Severance is one of the people to whom Father gave me a letter of introduction when I went to Honolulu, but I missed him there. Tomorrow I go to see Mr. Oliver Eldridge, another friend of my father's, who is head of a shipping firm. May 23.-I telegraphed home on my arrival and have just received word that Mother and Velma started from Boston at 6 o'clock tonight. I expect to go to Mills Seminary with Mrs. Damon tomorrow, to remain until they arrive. I see a great deal of Aunt Sophia, who is very kind, and I have also met Mr. Bowker of Scituate, who knows Father, Andrew Welch and James T. Cross of Welch & Company, Mr. T. C. Severance and his wife and two sons, and Mr. and Mrs. Samuel Henry Kent. I am arranging to go to San Rafael with Mother and Velma after they get here. Today, for the first time, I drew on Father at Wells, Fargo & Company, $50. Mrs. Damon and her family of five are to be my guests until tomorrow, when they go to Mills Seminary. May 24.-(From a letter to Father.) Mrs. Damon is taking the very best care of me. Yesterday, although she went to Mills Seminary, at Brooklyn, be MILLS SEMINARY 137 fore I was up, she returned in time to give me a good lomi and rubbing-That shows how much she thinks of me. I do not know how I could get along without her. Take good care of Gyp [the dog], my only son! I suppose he is staying at the Cudworths' (Hanover). I weighed 131 when I left the Islands; now I weigh 134; when I left Boston I weighed only 127. As I40 is the most I have ever weighed, and that when I was quite young, I think I am doing pretty well. May 25.-With the Damons, I came to Mills Seminary, Brooklyn, Alameda County, for a few days, and tonight we attended a concert given by the pupils. May 26.-Attended the Commencement exercises at the Seminary. The flowers were beautiful and the program interesting. Miss Mary C. Kinney, of Honolulu, is one of the graduates. She read an essay on "Ideals." May 28.-I have been here at Mills Seminary since Wednesday, as guest of Mr. and Mrs. Mills, and with the Damons. Mr. and Mrs. Mills are very kind and give me all the cream I can drink and plenty of eggs. I should like to stay some time, but I do not think I could bring my family here. More beautiful grounds than those by which we are surrounded one seldom sees. The only place at home with which I can compare it is the Hunnewells' at Wellesley. I see by tonight's paper that "Mrs. Lloyd Briggs and Miss Briggs passed Omaha" the day before yesterday and will arrive in San Francisco at II.35 on Monday. I think Mrs. Damon and I will go to San Pablo to meet 138 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU them. If I had not got passage on the "City of Sydney," I do not know when I should have been able to leave Honolulu, as the Steamship Company have decided not to take any more passengers from the Hawaiian Islands at present. May 29, Sunday.-I returned today with Mrs. Damon to San Francisco. May 30.-Went to San Pablo and met my dear Mother and Velma, after a separation of nearly II months, and brought them here to the Grand Hotel. Mr. Samuel H. Kent called this evening. He is a cousin of my mother's who came out here during the gold fever in 1849. He is very tall-a good specimen of the men of the Kent family, though the women are very small. He is the head of the Masonic Fraternity in San Francisco and is a master builder. One of his most recent constructions was the Normal School at Los Angeles. From Mother to Father. San Francisco, Monday night, May 30, i88r. My own dear Husband: I am safe in San Francisco, at the Grand Hotel. We are all right. Vernon met us at the ferry before we came to the city. He does not look sick, but is far from well. I met Mrs. Damon as soon as I got here. She seems a very pleasant lady and to love Vernon as her own brotherSays not to leave Vernon again until he is well. She and Mrs. Carter, the Hawaiian Minister of Interior's wife, and MRS. LLOYD BRIGGS 139 their daughters, called this evening, and said that they had adopted Vernon for their own. They told me he lay from Sunday until Friday not able to speak aloud, a part of the time out of his head from weakness, and could not raise his hand without a fresh hemorrhage. The only nourishment he had was by injections of brandy and beef-tea in the intestines. Mrs. Carter told me that when she asked Dr. McGrew what he thought of the case, he would say, "The dear boy! His parents will never see him again." For over a week there did not seem any chance for him. They say he lay so long at death's door, they do not think he could live through another such attack. I think you would like to know how I find him. He has quite a cough, but I think he looks nicely and seems very happy to have us here. Velma is like another girl-so happy to be with him! I think I never saw such love between sister and brother.... LIZZIE BRIGGS. June i.-We all went to Woodward's Gardens and saw the animals fed-sea-lions, seals, bears, camels, lions, tigers, etc. Father has sent me a very kind letter he received from Dr. Bowditch: Boston, May II, I88I. Lloyd Briggs, Esq., My dear Sir: I can not tell you how much I appreciate your kindness in allowing me to see the letters. The dear youth has indeed had a hard time! But what friends he has made and what a sensible doctor he has found! I wish I could learn from him the exact condition of the lungs on auscultation. Meanwhile, let me put a little comfort and hope into the hearts of yourself and your family by telling you that I gain 140 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU hope from Dr. McGrew's letter. I have known many cases where, after repeated and severe hemorrhages, the patients have fully recovered. My own father, before his marriage, was reduced so low by bleeding as to be thought dying of phthisis. My advice would be to follow the counsel of the kind friend and doctor. Let him return to the Islands to live there, unless he be too ill to be moved either way from San Francisco. By no means let him come to New England. His chances would be lessened more than three quarters. I wish that you would give my warmest sympathy to your wife and family, and tell them to keep a strong hope. All way yet be well. If you write to Dr. McGrew, present my respects, and say that I should be most pleased to hear from him, and that when the youth was here there was no rale, even on cough, and only a little less loud murmur of respiration under the right clavicle, and a slight Bellows murmur there such as I have at times noticed when disease of the lung has seemed to cause some obstruction of the local circulation on full breath. I remain, Very cordially yours, HENRY I. BOWDITCH. A postcard received two days later from Dr. Bowditch, acknowledging a letter which Father had sent for him to read, says "Don't give up, and let me know how things are going. I predict good news by next mails." June 2.-We all went to Mills Seminary for the day. Mother fell down a long flight of stairs, and the Rev. Cyrus T. Mills, the Principal, stood at the head MIss VELMA BRIGGS 141 of the stairs, terribly frightened. She was badly bruised, but no bones were broken. Mr. Mills was President of the college in Honolulu for two years, I86o0-86i. He then established this Seminary, near Oakland, and some years ago he and Mrs. Mills placed their institution under the care of trustees. It is the leading school of its kind on the Pacific Coast, and young women from the rest of the States and from Hawaii enjoy its generous advantages. [Mr. Mills died April 22, I884.] June 3.-Mrs. Damon and I went to the Baldwin Theater tonight, where we saw a musical comedy, "Fun on the Bristol." June 4.-Velma and I saw some Honolulu friends off on the "City of Sydney," which is now making the return trip to Honolulu and Australia. Front Velma to Father. San Francisco, June 4, I88I.... We had a lovely trip across the continent, and such beautiful scenery! For hours we rode along the shores of Lake Erie and, when crossing the Mississippi, we saw the sun set on the river. It was perfectly beautiful! A great raft of logs was floating down the river, and it all looked so calm and peaceful that I should have liked to stay there a long time and think. And then we came to the vast prairies about which we have read and heard so much. \Ve saw thousands of cattle in herds and hundreds and hundreds of horses, sheep and pigs. The herders on their fast horses looked fierce enough to frighten one. One of them raced with the train and we 142 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU won the race-The train was going about as fast as our Hanover Branch-no faster. At many places we saw Indians; bucks and squaws on horses, many of the latter with papooses tied to their backs. When we reached the mountains I felt better and I have felt better ever since. Captain Dahlgren was on the train, and every time we stopped long enough he would take me by the arm and walk up and down the platform and make me eat and put on wraps. He said that if he had his way he would make me work in his mines, ride horseback, etc. The scenery crossing the Rocky Mountains was grand, but in places the road seemed dangerous. We are really getting on first rate here. Vernon seems to be in good spirits and has actually been singing some nigger songs, which seems more like himself. Mrs. Damon has of course been here most of the time. She gave Vernon a good lomi last night and another this morning. June 5.-Velma has not been well of late. I think malaria is her chief trouble. Today we called on Dr. Hubbard, an old Confederate Army surgeon who, both for Velma's malaria and for my chest condition, instructed me to get a quart of whiskey and a pint of fresh grated horseradish root, mix them together and shake them and take a swallow of the mixture once an hour through the day. We are both taking this remedy. The horseradish sweetens the whiskey and it is not unpleasant. June 6.-Today we left the Damons in San Francisco and we three came to Tamalpias House, San Rafael. We first took a short sail across the Bay of San Quentin, then we boarded the cars of the North SAN RAFAEL, CAL. 143 ern Pacific Coast Railroad and reached San Rafael in about an hour after leaving San Francisco. This picturesque village is situated in the southeastern part of Marin County, in a beautiful valley of the same name. It is bounded on the south by Sausalito, on the west by Bolinas, on the north by Notavo and on the east by San Pablo Bay. After engaging our rooms at the Tamalpias Hotel, we took a drive. One's first impression of this town is of thrift, and it does not change. We drove out along Petaluma Avenue, which leads through Magnolia Valley. It was enchanting. The roads are in very good condition and this beautiful valley is clothed with a variety of bright wild flowers, mingled with those of more modest hue, copses of shrubbery on the outskirts of the town, the flowering madrona, the evergreens, the wide-spreading laurel and the fast-growing alfalfa (a kind of grass, five crops of which are cut in one year from the same land). Magnolia Valley is mostly the property of William T. Coleman, a commission merchant of San Francisco, and he has expended large sums of money in improving what nature had already made beautiful. With that purpose in view he has felled large tracts of timber, in order to adapt the fertile soil to the plow, and he has planted an extensive nursery, containing many valuable and beautiful trees, of which none excel the fine evergreen exotic, the eucalyptus, or Australian gum tree, which attains a growth of over 30 feet in five years. There are many other ornamental trees in the nursery, which 144 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU occupies 2 acres and is designed to be reserved as a public park when it shall have fulfilled its present purposes. June 7.-Many trees of rare species such as those we saw yesterday we found duplicated in the grounds of Mr. Stillwell, who lives in San Rafael proper, and who received us very cordially, entertaining us in true California style nearly all day. June 8.-From the veranda of the Tamalpias Hotel we have an unobstructed view of Mt. Tamalpias, lifting its ambitious head above its neighbors, and reaching an altitude of 2700 feet. The rocks upon the summit of Tamalpias are so disposed that they resemble the upturned face of a huge giant, reclining upon his back. Nor do you have to strain your imagination to see it perfectly. He is the monarch of the mountain which constitutes the outer molding of the framework of the valley. Backed by this framework on the west, San Rafael Valley, which is a mile wide and four miles in length, opens to the east on San Pablo Bay, while its northern and southern boundaries are formed by extensions of the Coast Range. There is a variety of game which they say furnishes very good hunting, deer being quite plenty. Horseback riding and camping in the valleys are the favorite amusements. We called today on Mrs. George Josslyn of Boston. San Rafael was first settled in 1817 by Jesuit mis P1 ICNIC OF SONS OF EMERALD ISLE 145 sionaries. The present Catholic Church stands on the site of the old mission church and remains of the old garden and orchard are still to be seen. The population now numbers about 3000. The climate is equable but not stimulating, the elevation being only 50 feet; one can live almost constantly out of doors. San Rafael has been compared to Mentone, in the south of France, during the winter months; but more days may be spent in the open air here, they say, than in Mentone. June 9.-In spite of the pleasant surroundings and mild climate of San Rafael, neither Velma nor I have been well here; so feeling that it does not agree with us we are returning to San Francisco today, and again taking rooms at the Grand Hotel. June rr.-We called on Mr. Foster and Nellie Fuller in Oakland and this evening we dined with Mr. and Mrs. Kent, at their home, 725 Bush Street. Later we saw an eclipse of the moon. June 12, Sunday.-This morning I went with Velma and Mrs. Damon to hear the Rev. Mr. Scudder at the Howard Street Presbyterian Church. In the afternoon we went to Golden Gate Park and then to the 29th Annual Picnic of the Sons of the Emerald Isle Benevolent Association at Scheutzen Park, Alameda. It was a unique affair! The program was mostly races: a race for professionals, with a barrel of 3X porter as prize; a race for men over 40, prize 1l46 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU half a ton of coal; for men from 30 to 40, prize a 50 pound sack of flour; men from 25 to 30, prize 5 barrels of coke; boys from I5 to 20, prize i California lamb; boys from 8 to io, prize I California ham; fat women's race, prize a box of soap; race for married ladies, a pair of balmoral gaiters and a bottle of cologne; girls from 12 to i5, a lady's parasol; girls from 8 to 12, lady's sack cloak and a sack of onions; fat men's race, a mammoth ham and a box of porter; for members over 40, half a ton of coal and 3 bales of hay; hop, step and jump race, a barrel of beer; officers of all societies, a silver goblet and a case of wine! June I4.-Under the advice of Drs. Sawyer and Hubbard, Mother, Velma and I have made arrangements to go to Napa, about 70 miles north of San Francisco, to avoid the cold winds that spring up here every afternoon, necessitating one's wearing an overcoat. The doctors think these sudden changes keep Velma and me from making the progress that we should make, although we are both somewhat better than when we arrived. So we leave tomorrow for Napa City, Napa County, California. Some day I hope to write a book telling of my experiences in California from the time we went to Napa City. This book concerns more particularly the life in Honolulu and the people there in i88o-i88i. The following letter from Mr. Damon to my mother which came not long after we left San Francisco shows more MRS. S. M. DAMON, 88i HON. S. M. DAMON, I88I,, HON. S. M. DAMON 147 clearly than any words of mine the warmth of their hospitality: Honolulu, July 3, I88i. My dear Mrs. Briggs: Though I have never had the pleasure of meeting you personally, I feel from my wife's letters and your good husband's warm letters, that I will not be trespassing on you by introducing myself and writing of what has long been on my mind. It would afford me much pleasure if you could so time your travels as to make the Islands a visit. The quarantine regulations will be removed in a few days and you will have no inconvenience in travelling to any quarter of the group. When your son was here it was in the rainy season and a real bright warm day did not often occur. We have been having of late some real Sandwich Island weather, mild, equable and warm enough during the middle of the day to be pleasant, and there would be no pressing necessity to move about out of doors. The thermometer stands from 80~ to 84~, and as Velma (or perhaps she will say "Miss Briggs, if you please") is not strong, she can have a settee out on the veranda or under the trees when it is too warm to stay indoors. I should like to play host, for once, while my good wife is away, and if we did not always have iced champagne, I could vary the tonic and give you Jersey milk-Vernon will tell you of my farming proclivities and though, like Horace Greeley, I can not milk a cow, I have a man that can. Now if these inducements are not sufficient, let me know what are needed and your future host will look them up. Remember me most kindly to Vernon and Velma, and if you are writing Mr. Briggs, tell him I am coming some fine 148 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU day to Boston, on purpose to see the man who writes such noble letters. Trusting that this Hawaiian introduction will not frighten you away from Honolulu, I am, dear Madam, Yours respectfully, S. M. DAMON. It was a great satisfaction to me after my long illness, to know that my work in vaccinating the people of Oahu had been successful. Among other letters on the subject which I valued highly, I still have the following from Mrs. Damon's father, the Rev. Dwight Baldwin: Honolulu, July 19, I88i. My dear friend, I was very glad to receive your letter as I have been anxious to hear about your health; but you do not speak about that particularly, which I hope means that you are enjoying better health. Mrs. Damon and Lizzie first reported you as gone to San Rafael, but soon you returned. You speak of your pleasure in meeting your dear mother and sister. I rejoice with you that they are with you at the Napa Soda Springs -and at the prospect, too, of our having so great and minute a history of California and its counties! In political matters you speak of Conklin's freaks, but long before this time you have heard of the dreadful work of the assassin. We expect to hear that Garfield is no more, Arthur is President and Conklin is, perhaps, Prime Minister! He may rejoice in the exercise of power almost supreme-It is his nature to do so. I remember no mail which has brought us such sad news, except the one that told us that Lincoln was shot. REV. DWI(;HT BALDWIN 149 Even the native Hawaiians were shocked at that as I have never seen them before. But let me turn again to our little nation in the midst of the Pacific-You have lived here long enough to become interested in our affairs. If you forget all other things, you will not forget your toilsome travels over the north part of Oahu. For your satisfaction, let me tell you that, with two or three exceptions of smallpox patients who have escaped from Honolulu, the disease has not spread into the districts which you vaccinated; but in Honolulu we read the weekly reports of cases until we were heartily sick of them-always hoping that they were decreasing and often disappointed in their sudden increase. When our hopes were greatest, they were often dashed at once by the discovery of a: great number of sick and dying ones under a native doctor. At length, about I8 days had intervened with no new cases, and on July i2 the quarantine ended. The inter-island steamers and vessels had sailed without passengers for four monthsthen they took lots of passengers. The "Iwalani" landed passengers at Maui and the west side of Hawaii, when off the south end of Hawaii a case appeared. The steamer returned at once to our harbor and yesterday he died; and now the yellow flag is again on our shores. I will write no more on this subject, only to remind you of your kindness in writing to your father to send me a lot of bovine for my son Henry at Makawao, Maui. It may be gratifying to you to know that the whole speculation was a good one. In 19 days from the time the package had left Boston Henry had received it. Mr. Carter's bovine, which had been sent to the doctors of their region, took in only a few cases of the many vaccinated. Almost every one took of those vaccinated with the Boston virus. We have now, July 20, two yellow flags flying on shore. Secreting cases of smallpox is a great evil. Hilo lava flow is fearful. One flow, pointing two miles 150 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU east of the town, is near the sea; another making directly for the town and Bay. Your affectionate friend, DWIGHT BALDWIN. On October 22 of the same year he wrote me another kind letter in which he said: "You refer to my remarks upon the vaccination of your district: I see no reason whatever to alter a single word which I wrote on the subject-that the vaccination of north Oahu was very thorough and effectual. You know that one case of smallpox was carried directly into the district from Honolulu while you were here, but the disease did not spread." CHAPTER VIII KALUA ABOUT the middle of September the following year (I882), soon after my return home from my two years' absence in the Hawaiian Islands and in California, I was sitting in my father's office in Boston one morning, when I received a message from his cousin, John R. Briggs, who was living in Cazenove Street, saying that the night before there had appeared at his door a young boy with straight black hair and a skin much like that of an Indian, asking in broken English for "Kauka Brigiana." After some time they made out that he was trying to find a Dr. Briggs who had arrived at Honolulu in the bark "Amy Turner." Knowing that I had been in the Islands, my cousin decided that I must be the one for whom the boy was seeking, so he sent for me to come and see him. On arriving at their house, I recognized Kalua, and his joy at finding me seemed to have no bounds. With the aid of his broken English and my own meager knowledge of his language, I soon learned his story. After I had left Honolulu, he had determined to follow me. He knew that I had come to the Islands in the bark "Amy Turner," and for months and months he watched the harbor for her return. He believed 151 152 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU that he would find me if he could get aboard her, and when she put in at Honolulu on her next trip he stowed away under a boat which was lashed to the deck upsidedown, with crates of onions stored beneath it. These affected his eyes and made him very uncomfortable, and without other food they proved but poor diet, so that after three days at sea he made his presence known by appearing on deck. He said that Captain Newell was at first angry, but soon took him as cabin boy and they got on famously for the rest of the trip, which was first to China, then to Manila and around the Cape of Good Hope to New York, whence he had somehow found his way to Boston. He did not impart the object of his trip to Captain Newell but when he got to Boston he inquired for me of a policeman, who vainly looked in directories for the name "Brigiana"! The boy must have made himself understood at last for, after visiting a number of Briggses, he finally came to the house where my cousin lived. He was about I4 years old at this time and still a little boy. Kalua imparted to me his desire to go home with me immediately. He said he wished me to arrange for his education so that he might go back to the Sandwich Islands and be King! I could not take him to Hanover at that time, however, for my dear mother was very ill; but he had comfortable quarters with Charlie Newell, the Captain's nephew who was a shipmate, until I could decide what it would be best to do with this unexpected responsibility. KALUA IN HANOVER 153 I had much sympathy with the boy's desire to be educated, and I immediately consulted Mr. Lawrence Bond, the Hawaiian Consul in Boston, as to what could be done with my young charge; but I could not get his consent to Kalua's plan. He was decidedly of the opinion that, as the boy had run away from the Islands, he should be returned by the same ship upon which he had come. A few days after Kalua's appearance in Boston I had a telegram from Captain Newell, inviting me to join him in New York and sail home in the "Amy Turner." I went on immediately, and had a stormy return voyage with him.* I did not get back until October 2 and found Kalua impatiently awaiting me. It was a sad blow to him to be told that after he had waited so many months in the Islands and taken this long and adventurous trip he was to be sent back to Honolulu; but there was no other way as the Consul's decision seemed to be final. By this time my mother was in better health, and I took Kalua home to Hanover with me for a visit, until it was time for him to join the "Amy Turner" for the return voyage. Captain Newell had readily agreed to take him back as cabin boy, but living in the forecastle. While he remained with us he was very happy and devoted. Every morning when I awoke I could hear his sweet voice very softly singing some Hawaiian air; it sounded a long way off, but when I opened my door there was Kalua lying at the threshold, ready to greet * See "Amy Turner," Chap. VIII. 154 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLUIU me with a lei made by braiding together the stems of wild flowers. He rose early every morning to gather them, and never failed to have his lei ready when I awoke. He was my companion day after day, and always busy and cheerful. When not serving me personally, he occupied himself cleaning my guns or found other helpful tasks to take up his time. I did everything I could do to arrange for him to continue with me, but the Consul was very firm in his decision that the boy should be returned, both on account of the immigration laws and also because he feared that the boy's family in the Islands might later make trouble by demanding his return, though Kalua claimed to have no relation nearer than an uncle. It was amusing to hear him. try to speak English, many words of which he had picked up from the sailors. My uncle, the Rev. William T. Briggs, Minister of the Congregational Church at East Douglas, Massachusetts, was visiting us at the time, and it was interesting to listen to his conversations with Kalua about conditions in the Sandwich Islands. Kalua informed my uncle that the Chinese were now doing all the work there which the natives had formerly done, and that the natives were idling their time away. When mv uncle asked why the Kanakas allowed the Chinese to come in, Kalua answered, "Oh, native, he damn fool. He let Chinaman come in and work one cent a day when native get one dollar." We all liked to hear Kalua sing and on several occasions invited the neighbors in to hear him. Kalua KALUA, i884 KALUA SAILS 155 was proud of this accomplishment and on these occasions he refused to eat any supper that his voice might be clear. On October 14 I took him back to the ship, as Captain Newell was getting ready to sail and had need of his services; but I was staying with friends in Boston and continued to see him frequently for the next few days; he enjoyed going about with me to see my friends who were very kind to him. On the 17th, I spent the whole day on board the "Amy Turner" with Captain Newell and Kalua. The "Amy" sailed on the g9th and I went down the Harbor aboard of her; but there was a very strong wind dead east, so that the Captain anchored in Nantasket Roads, and there I took leave of him and of poor Kalua, thinking I should perhaps never see the boy again. The next day the "Amy Turner" got off, and I had no word from Kalua for more than a year; I thought of him as back in Honolulu with his people, taking up his old life, perhaps, and forgetting his ambition to be King But little did I appreciate the strength of the boy's purpose. When the "Amy Turner" sailed into Boston Harbor on December 30, 1883, Kalua was once more aboard her. A second time he had stowed away, taken a long voyage with Captain Newell and come to Boston, eager to find me and persuade me to keep him with me and superintend his education. He was somewhat larger and stronger than when I had last seen him, and had become accustomed to his life in the fore 156 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU castle; but he was still a boy, and the same reasons existed for returning him to his native land as in the previous year. We were living in a hotel in Boston that winter and I was working hard in my father's office. He was notary for some 30 or more banks in Boston, and we often worked all day and until i or 12 o'clock at night, in busy seasons, making out legal papers; so that it was impossible for me to take charge of the boy, even had be been permitted to stay. Captain Newell understood this, and again willingly agreed to take him as cabin boy on his next voyage, which was to be around the world, and to leave him in Honolulu when he reached that port. He had need of such a handy boy, for his sister, Miss Lizzie Newell, was to accompany him on this voyage; and he was also carrying a passenger, John L. Graham, son of Mr. Graham of Hartley and Graham of New York. I visited the "Amy Turner" frequently while she was in port, both alone and with friends who were interested in going over the vessel and talking with Kalua, who was stopping in Boston with Captain Newell's nephew, Charles Newell, who was Mate of the vessel for several years following my trip. Captain Newell and his sister came to dinner with us and brought Albert Hess, a young boy whom they had adopted as a member of their family. The vessel remained in port preparing for her long cruise until February 21, 1884. When the time came for her to sail I went aboard with Kalua and remained KALUA AT SEA 157 as long as possible. We sailed down the Harbor at 9 A.M., and out to sea for 30 miles, and I returned at 4 in the afternoon on the tug "Winch," Captain Rich. Captain Newell's uncle and a party of 25 friends, who had come to see MIiss Newell off, were with me. Young Albert Hess remained on board, as well as Mr. Graham. My journal for Thursday, February 28, I884, contains this item: "B'k 'Amy Turner,' Newell, spoken today, Lat. 38~ 17' North, Long. 49~ 30' West." I heard nothing of Kalua until a letter came to me, dated July 28, 1884, written in the Pacific Ocean by Miss Newell and mailed at Hong Kong after the bark had arrived at Honolulu and sailed again. It seems that Kalua had landed with the others in Honolulu, and he appeared to enjoy being on or near the ship while she was in port there; but it was not until she had been several days at sea on her way to Hong Kong that they found the boy had stowed away for the third time in spite of the Captain's precautions. When questioned by the Captain, he said that he was so "homesick" that he could not stay in Honolulu and meant to come back to me. His voyage can best be described by Miss Newell's letter to me and one which Albert Hess wrote for Kalua, also addressed to me. I had sent a letter addressed to him at Honolulu, and Miss Newell said that he was much pleased to hear from me, but was unable to write himself. She said 158 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU that she had found him "an exceptionally fine boynot very quick, probably owing to his shyness." She continued: The bark made a very good passage to Honolulu, Ii6 days. We ran into a gale two days out from Boston, when we hove to. The water poured over the "Amy" in fine style, smashing one boat all to pieces and breaking another. Off the River Platte, another week of head winds and squalls with thunder and lightning, when the "Amy" plunged, jumped and tossed to my titter disgust. Fine weather followed, so we went through the Straits of Le Maire Sunday, April 27. It was an exciting day, for it is a bad place to be caught in and we did not know but that the wind would leave us at any mnoment. \Ve sailed within a mile of the land, where the snow-covered mountains rose boldly from the shores. We made the Islands on Sunday, June 15, and Captain McIntyre came off Monday morning, but said he could not take us in that day, as the tug "Pele" was broken down and the trades were too strong to sail in. So Captain Newell, Albert Hess and I were rowed in from nearly off Diamond Head in the pilot boat. In Honolulu it was dinner and lunch nearly every day among old schoolmates and friends. W\e left Honolulu with Chinamen on board for Hong Kong, the region of typhoons, coral and earthquakes. Our hold, instead of a quiet, well-stored, immovable cargo of inanimate objects, is filled with moving, restless human beings. Fore and aft bunks are being made, and bags, baskets, boxes and all sorts of bundles fill every space. 314 of the brown-colored, smooth-faced Celestials, with loose clothes, pigtails around their heads, are returning to their native land. There has never been such an exodus from the Islands before. Miss LIZZIE NEWELL 159 The engine condenses salt water into fresh for cooking and cleaning, and we have made over 5000 gallons so far. It throbs continually, and the carpenter, who is the best man aboard, is kept busy. A fireplace has been made in front of the carpenter's shop, and in the center hangs a large caldron in which rice is cooked by steam, and on each side are pots for soup and tea. We had quite a lot of livestock when we left I-Ionolulu, pigs, sheep and ducks, but the last pig was killed today. Such a gabbling as there is all the time, and especially at mealtime, when they swarm the main deck (not allowed on the poop)! Their rations are served in baskets and pans, and they squat on the deck, the forecastle and way forward, all ages and sizes-good-looking and evil, intelligent and stupid, fat and lean-with their little blue bowls which hold the rice; and with their chop-sticks they poke the rice into their mouths in marvellous quantities without spilling a grain. Very gently they pick up from the pan bits of dried fish or pork or unknown substances and, with their mouths all full, a stillness pervades. Our passenger, Mr. Graham, thinks it all nothing but disgusting. I see nothing disgusting-only a different manner of eating from our own. Five women are in the crovwd.. As far as I know, the only letter that I ever received from Kalua was the one which he dictated to Albert Hess on this same voyage: "Amy Turner," Pacific Ocean, August i, 1884. Dear Vernon, Kalua wanted me to write you for him. He has told me what to say: 160 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU "You would have heard from me in Honolulu, but Charlie was too busy to write. We had a good passage of 115 days, a gale off the coast the second day out. One night the sailors were going to hoist the fore-top gallant sail, and the Second Mate was letting the brace go, when the sea came over and washed him off his feet, and he just caught a rope in time to save himsef. The boat on the main hatch was broken so by the sea washing over her that it could not be mended, and the cook used it for fire-wood. We went through the Straits of Le Maire April 27; saw Cape Horn next day. One week we had bad winds, but the rest of the way we were sailing quite fast. "In Honolulu I went swimming. It reminded me of the time I went swimming with you and I said the water was like molasses. I wish I was with you. The nights that you used to tell me to be sure and get up early in the morning and have breakfast and get ready to go into the woods shooting birds-You know I liked that. You remember the day that you was going to shoot a squirrel, thinking that it was a bird? "There are 314 Chinamen, five women and three little children on board. In a day they use 120 gallons of condensed water for boiling rice, 36 gallons of spring water for boiling tea. Carpenter condenses about 250 gallons a day on an average. "Today we saw Luzon, one of the Philippine Islands. "Give my love to all. I will get some little things if I have time. This is all that I can think of to write. Aloha nui! Your friend, KALUA." By Albert Hess. The "Amy Turner" returned to Boston on February 6, i885, and Miss Newell wrote an interesting ac KAIUTA IN BOSTON 161 count of the voyage, and invited my sister and me to her home to hear it read on April 7. Again Kalua was on board and visited me at Number 12 Joy Street, where I was then residing with my family. I remember very little of this visit. Probably Kalua had given up all hope of remaining in Boston for the time being, and was content with his position on board the "Amy Turner." I find the following letter from my cousin, the daughter of John Briggs, at whose house Kalua had first appeared. Feb. 23, i885. Dear Vernon, We shall rely on seeing you and Kalua tomorrow at 6.30 r.ai. June Blair and one or two other boys will be here to see the lion and his keeper. Hastily yours, ELIZABETH. Kalua sailed again that spring with the "Amy Turner." In the spring of I887 I went south for my health with my mother, and returned by way of Washington and New York, stopping for several days in the latter city to visit friends. On April 21, while I was still in South Carolina, my sister, who was visiting the John Briggses in Boston, wrote me a letter, of which the following is an extract: "Who do you suppose came to John Briggs' to tea last night but Kalua! He left 'Amy Turner' and Captain Newell in New York on their arrival. He came on with 162 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU Charlie Newell, and is stopping at the Sailors' Home on North Bennet Street. "He brought Mr. Briggs a bone cane from St. Helena and June Blair the sword of the swordfish, but he did not have them with him last night. I told him you would be here next week." When I returned to Boston on the afternoon of April 26, I immediately looked up Kalua and he and I had supper and spent the evening together at the home of my cousin John Briggs; and I met him there again the following evening. Again he begged to be allowed to remain with me and go to school. He was now I7 years old, tall, strong and manly, and his ambition to be a leader of his people had grown no less as the years went by. Charlie Newell, who had been Mate on the "Amy Turner" in the three voyages she made around the world when Keoni ("John") Kalua or "Snip," as they called him, was with them, has written me some of his reminiscences of his sprightly young companion. On the first voyage they left Boston on October 2I, 1882, and arrived in Honolulu March 20, I883-I51 days. From there they sailed to Hong Kong, thence to I loilo, and from there around the Cape of Good Hope to New York. They were I4 months and nine days in making the voyage. On the second voyage to the same ports, they were i i months and i days; and on the third voyage, to the same ports except that they went to Cebu instead of to Iloilo, they were 13 months and Io days. ANECDOTES OF KALUA 163 "My last trip on the 'Amy Turner,' " he says, "was fromn New York, in June or July of '86, to Singapore, Chittagong, and back to New York." This was Kalua's final trip. "We arrived in New York in April, i887. After we were paid off, Snip and I came to my home in Boston and he stayed with me for a week. He was very fond of checkers, and when we were home after my second voyage he used to play checkers with my grandfather by the hour. When I told Snip about Grandfather's death he was very much affected." Mr. Newell tells several anecdotes of Kalua: "Just before the 'Amy Turner' sailed from Boston in October I882, a friend of mine who had false teeth came on board to see me. When Snip looked at him, he was scared and horrified to see the upper set of teeth drop. He turned and ran away, and afterwards he said to me, 'Your friend no good. He is coming apart.' "When the sailors swore, Snip picked up the words very quickly but when he was told what they meant he would never repeat them. 'Chips' (Charley Arpe, the carpenter) had Snip in charge, but being very active, he was here, there and everywhere on the ship. He had a large pet rooster on board which he called 'Red Head' and we also had a big tom cat. When the cat was asleep, Snip would pick up his pet and drop it on the cat, saying, 'Give it to him, Red Head!' and when one or the other ran away, Snip would sit on the main hatch and have a good laugh. "One time when we were painting ship, Snip said. 'W\hen you see any roaches on the port forecastle, paint them, so that later when you see a roach without a painted back you will know it doesn't belong to the port watch.' "Snip was great for teasing a fairly good-sized monkey that we got in Iloilo; the monkey always kept his eyes on 164 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU Snip, expecting trouble; it would run aloft, and on the way would grab a green banana from the bunch on the mainstay and sit on the mainyard and watch its chance to throw the banana at Snip, and then scamper away with Snip after it. Of course the boy could not keep up with the monkey, but when the monk started to go from a yard-arm to the mizzentopmast on a brace, Snip would get hold of the brace and shake it, just to see Mr. Monk go round and round. He would laugh and say, 'I fix you, you imp!' "Just after we arrived in Honolulu in March, I883, the Mate called Snip and said to him, 'See this white button? I am going aft to the taffrail and you jump from the jibboom-and don't you come up without the button!' The boy said, 'I savee.' When the mate threw the button, the boy jumped; he was down some time, but when he came up he had the button and, showing it to the Mate, said, 'Look, see!'" Mr. Newell also tells of Kalua's fastidiousness about his clothes, and he describes the boy's astonishment when first offered ice-cream: "He called the waiter and asked him to put it on the stove and make it warmer." When I again presented Kalua's case to the Consul, Mr. Bond withdrew his former objection to allowing him to remain in this country-and certainly the boy's determination deserved to be rewarded! I sent him to my home in Hanover on May 5, and made arrangements for him to begin school immediately. Finding that in the little public school in Hanover he would have to enter a class with boys much younger and smaller than he, I applied to Mr. Wallace KALUA AT SCHOOL 165 Brett, Principal of the Hanover Academy, a private endowed preparatory school. There were about 50 pupils in this school, and I felt that here Kalua might receive the special personal instruction which he needed to help him to progress, much more rapidly than he could at the public school. Mr. Brett at first hesitated to accept Kalua, believing that the boys would call him "Kanaka" and "Cannibal," and otherwise tease him and make his life miserable. But I felt that he had the mental equipment to compete with any of them as soon as he had the opportunity to do so. Hawaiian boys had done well in other schools; I had learned only recently that Kawananakoa, who was a student at St. Matthew's Hall, San Mateo, California, had received marks in punctuality Ioo, military conduct ioo, French 99, elocution 97, music 90, and in eight other studies an average of 85 per cent; and that other Hawaiian boys, Keliiahonui and Kaliananaole, had each had an average of not less than 85 per cent in all their subjects excepting geography, which was 84. An historic instance of the Hawaiian's desire for betterment and capacity to learn is that of Obookiah, a native who was born on the Island of Hawaii in 1792. When he was IO or I2 years of age, both his parents were slain before his eyes in a native war, and he was taken prisoner by the man who killed them but afterwards released to the care of an uncle, from whom he later ran away and boarded a ship upon which he made a voyage to China and the northwest coast of Amer 166 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLIULU ica. He finally arrived in New Haven, Connecticut, in the fall of I809. Here he was taken into the family of Captain Brinthal, on whose vessel he had sailed, and for the first time was given the name of Henry. He often visited the colleges in that place and one evening several students found him weeping at their college door. On being asked the cause of his grief, he replied that "nobody gave him learning." Obtaining the consent of Captain Brinthal, these young men agreed to supervise his education, and he was taken into the family of the Rev. Dr. Timothy Dwight, President of Yale College. Later he lived with the Rev. Mr. Mills at Torringford and James Morris, Esq., at Litchfield. He studied English grammar, geography, arithmetic, etc., and also became acquainted with the various branches of husbandry. He manifested a taste for the Hebrew language and translated portions of the Bible into his own language. At 21 years of age he was in the care of the North Consociation of Litchfield County under the instruction of a Mr. Harvey who wrote appreciatively of his progress. Early in 1818, Obookiah was taken with a disease diagnosed as "typhus fever," and died on the 17th of February at Cornwall, Connecticut, while he was a member of the Foreign Mission School there. The Rev. Lyman Beecher, Pastor of the church at Litchfield, delivered the sermon at Obookiah's funeral. I was sure that Kalua could do as well as any other Hawaiian boy; so I persuaded Mr. Brett, much against his judgment, to take him at least for a trial. At first KALUA'S LOVE OF MUSIC 167 the boy was left much to himself, and his first week at school was a trying one, for most of Mr. Brett's predictions came true. But Kalua showed unusual perseverance and tact, and at the end of five weeks he was the most popular boy in the Academy, having made remarkable progress in his studies and leading in athletics. At the end of a month he had been chosen Captain of the baseball team. My own business and social engagements kept me in Boston on week-days until nearly the first of June, but lKalua was already quite at home with my parents and sister, and I went to Hanover often and kept in close touch with him and with his work at the school. The "Amy Turner" remained in port for some time and on May i i I took Captain Newell out to dinner and we had a good talk about Kalua and his future, in which Captain Newell was much interested. Kalua's love for music was unbounded; he could sing almost any tune that he had ever heard and repeat the words of the songs. When he could not pronounce the English words, he had the natural gift, after listening to a verse, of translating it into excellent meter in his own language. I have a few verses to illustrate this, which I took down from his own mouth. For instance, to the tune of "Marching through Georgia," hie sang: Hulo, hulo! eiae kiuipile - Hulo, hulo! e pou na pi lo ne Mai na pu ou kaa, hoo i ke ka i - La ha pe mi i ou. 168 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU To the tune "Shoo fly!" he sang a mixture of words in both languages something like this: Mai kai no o hi lo O ka pa ma lo o - Ka pe wa a kou e Ka u lu a ohe hua 0 lu na too fly no fodder me! - Too fly no fodder me, too fly no fodder me!I feel, I feel, I feel, I feel like mornin' starI feel, I feel, I feel, I feel like mornin' star - etc. Aia, hop Company G! The following song is reminiscent of his voyage with the Chinamen: Ching, ching, ching, kawa lawa, La wa lo, ching, ching! Ching ka wa la, wa la wa lo Chinaman wa lo good! La pai e la pai mai e poi mai ko - I never see Chinaman eat a rat "A Kiss by Moonlight," in his words, sounded as follows: Kaua kileeemini nei Holae menei holae, Namanu mei nei, Aloha oe kue ipu. [I have given them as I took them down at the time from ear.] He would often take his accordeon, jewsharp or KALUA IN HANOVER 169 harmonica and go out under an apple tree at some distance from the house, where he thought he would be out of hearing, and play his native tunes or improvise others. It was delightful to hear the sweet strains of music in the stillness of the early evening, after the day's work was done. In spite of the boys' teasing the first few days they did not make him feel that he was their inferior, but he could not be made to walk beside any of us, always coming a short distance behind, probably because he thought it more polite to follow. We accepted him as one of us; and he never lost his ambition to be a leader of his people. He was proud to be sent to escort my sister, who was not supposed to walk alone through a certain wood-path on her way to visit a neighbor. On one of these occasions soon after he first arrived in this country she was somewhat startled to notice that Kalua had drawn a large hunting knife, which he always carried in his hip pocket. Being large and of a dark race, he presented to her in this position a decidedly alarming appearance, but she summoned up courage to ask him what he was doing with the weapon. The boy responded, "For kill Indians!" On Thursday, June 2, 1887, Kalua informed me that he had left his sea-chest in the basement of the Seaman's Bethel, at Number 8 Bennet Street, corner of Hanover Street, Boston, where he had stopped on several occasions. When he came to stay with us he thought that he should never care for it again, but it 170 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU contained certain things which he had decided he would like to keep and others which he wanted to give away to the sailors. So he asked me for enough money to go to Boston and to buy a trunk, into which he intended to put the things he wanted to save and bring back to Hanover. He expected to stay until Saturday when I arranged to meet him at my father's office. He appeared on that day and told me that he had bought a trunk for $2 and partly filled it, but he asked permission to stay at the Bethel over Sunday, promising to return to Hanover on Monday. On Monday, June 6, I was again at my father's office expecting Kalua, when a man came breathlessly into the room. He hurriedly introduced himself as George H. Newell, one of the trustees of the Bethel. He told me that a Hawaiian had been shot in the basement of the Bethel and that my card had been found on his person. Mr. Newell recognized Kalua for his nephew had sailed with the boy for more than four years and he had come immediately for me. I went out with him and we took a "herdic" at the door, in which we hurried to the Bethel. I found poor Kalua lying face downward in a pool of blood; he was still warm and I thought I saw him move. Turning him over I found that he had been shot in the breast, probably through the heart, and was quite dead. Not knowing that he had owned a revolver, I looked for the weapon with which he had been shot, but could not find it. On questioning those present, I learned that the last person seen with him was one Olson, a KALUA SHOT 171 Swede, who had hurriedly left the building, after notifying the inmates that a sailor had accidentally shot himself in the basement. My first thought was that Olson must have shot the boy. Going through Kalua's pockets, I found a small sum of money and his purse and trinkets undisturbed; and knowing that Kalua was not the sort of boy to get into quarrels, I concluded at once that Olson had shot him by accident. The police, who had arrived at about the same time as I, began to search for a weapon in every conceivable nook and corner of the building and even in the catch-basin outside of the building at the corner of the street. I was on the spot shortly after i i and learned that a noise had been heard at 10.45 which the woman in the house thought was a shot. This frightened domestic rushed upstairs and informed the Superintendent of the Bethel, Mr. Johnson, who investigated, in company with Mr. Newell, and found Kalua's body. He at once sent for Dr. Millerick, while he himself went for a police officer, as he believed that there had been foul play, and Mr. Newell fetched me. There were some 32-caliber cartridges lying about on the floor and others were found in a pipe leading from the water-closet in the basement. These last the doctor said he might have picked up from the floor and thrown into the closet. No one knew where Olson had gone. Feeling that, for the moment, there was nothing more for me to do at the Bethel, I hastened to Police Station i on Han 172 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU over Street, and told Captain Dawson that I felt sure that Olson had shot Kalua and that I believed that, being a sailor, he would try to escape by shipping on some departing vessel; and I urged him to cover every wharf where vessels were sailing in the next 24 hours. Captain Dawson immediately dispatched Sergeant Simonds and Patrolmen Saxton, Rideout, Pears, Fessenden and Harrington to cover the water front. In about two hours Patrolmen Saxton and Harrington appeared at Station No. I with Elmer Olson, whom they had found on a Gloucester fishing schooner just about to sail. When questioned by the Captain, Olson claimed that Kalua had been trying with his knife to pick a cartridge out of a revolver which he had taken from his trunk, and that the cartridge had exploded as he was holding the revolver against his breast. He denied any knowledge of the whereabouts of the pistol, and another search was made by the police, who rummaged the trunks and boxes of both Kalua and Olson and every other possible place of concealment, but failed to reveal any weapon. Olson did not assist them in their search. The Bethel was a most respectable and worthy institution, supported by philanthropic people of the city. Kalua had never been known to quarrel with any one and his relations with the inmates of the house had been most pleasant. On the afternoon of the previous day he and the Swede had spent some time together in the kitchen and both had appeared in an KALUA'S COMPANION 1r73 amiable mood. On this Monday morning, Henry Williams, who was in charge of the place, was busy preparing for the annual meeting of the Directors, and Mr. Newell had arrived early to attend the meeting. Superintendent Williams said that he had seen Kalua with a pistol in his possession at 8 o'clock on Sunday morning; he had evidently had one packed away with the other things in his sea-chest. Medical Examiner Harris claimed that, had the cartridge exploded as Olson described it, there would have been powder marks on Kalua's hand, and no such marks were visible. There was also a pool of blood at some distance from the body for which Olson's story did not account. Olson was in appearance a mild, blue-eyed Swede, smooth-faced with a fair skin, plump and well developed. He was greatly agitated when he was telling his story of the affair, and was led, pale and trembling, to a cell in Station No. i, where he seemed very ill at ease and passed a sleepless night. The police continued their search for the revolver and even took the furnace to pieces and dug up the cess-pool of the house, but no revolver could be found. Kalua's body was necessarily taken to the Morgue, on North Grove Street, where an autopsy was held on the following day and a 32-caliber bullet was found which had passed through his heart; it bore unmistakable marks of having been fired from a pistol, the rifling of the barrel of the weapon being clearly discernible. The autopsy showed that his brain was 174 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU unusually large and well-developed, and that he had been in perfect health, every organ being normal. Again the police renewed their search for the revolver, taking plumbers and carpenters, ripping up floors, opening drainpipes and sinks, but without success. The police and others connected with the case felt that, had Kalua died by his own hand, the revolver would have been near him. Olson stuck to his story of the exploding cartridge and denied all knowledge of what had become of the revolver. On June 2 I he was taken to court and arraigned before Judge Hardy; he waived examination and was committed to jail to await action of the Grand Jury. On June 22 he came before Judge Parmenter and was remanded back to jail again. Letters of sympathy poured in upon me, for Kalua had made many friends in his short stay with us. I took charge of the body after the autopsy, and on the afternoon of June io I took it to West Hanover by train and drove from there to the receiving tomb at Center Hanover, where a solemn service was held by the Rev. Dr. Brooks, pastor of the Episcopal Church at Hanover which Kalua faithfully attended. Among others there were present my father, my sister Velma, Mr. and Mrs. John Briggs, Miss Lizzie Newell and her ward, Albert Hess, Miss Lillie Sylvester, Mr. Horace Tower, our good friend Mr. Edward Church, Cashier of the Boylston National Bank, and Mr. Brett, Principal of the Academy which Kalua had attended. All had known Kalua and had become fond KALUA'S FUNERAL 175 of him, and there were many of the beautiful flowers which he so dearly loved. An account of the funeral appeared in a local paper, the "North River Pioneer," on June 17, 1887: "The funeral services of young Kalua, who was shot at Boston on Monday of last week were held at Center Hanover Cemetery on Friday, at 7 P.M., where his body had been taken to be deposited in the town tomb, pending its final disposition. Dr. William H. Brooks conducted the services in the Episcopal form in a very impressive manner, reading a portion of the Church Burial Service in the presence of a few friends of the young man who had come to such an untimely end. "Kalua was a protege of the Briggses of this village and had commenced his education under their patronage at Hanover Academy. He was a native of the Sandwich Islands and left that place as a stowaway on board the bark 'Amy Turner,' Captain Newell, some four or five years ago, and he has made a number of voyages around the world with Captain Newell since, entering the port of Honolulu twice in that time. The grief of young Briggs at the loss of his favorite is heartfelt and is shared by the rest of the family, who had come to look upon him as one thrown on their care and protection. "In personal appearance Kalua was dark, with prominent features, a very high forehead; and a look of unmistakable intelligence pervaded every lineament. His natural musical talent was of high order, and he played the wild airs of his native land on the harmonica and accordeon with a subdued sweetness which caused his hearers to listen with amazement at the unconscious but refined strains. "Judging from his first appearance among us, Kalua could not have been over I6 years old at the time of his tragic death." 176 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU After the funeral, Mr. and Mrs. John R. Briggs, Miss Newell and Albert Hess spent the night at our house. The next day Charlotte and Oliver Carter, who had been staying in Boston, came to spend the day with me and I photographed Kalua's tomb, with the profusion of flowers in front of it, that they might have the picture to take back to Honolulu with them. I chose Kalua's final resting place near our own family plot in the quiet little cemetery at Hanover Center, and I never fail when I go there to leave a few flowers in memory of the gentle young Hawaiian boy who loved to twine leis for me. The people in our little town of Hanover were much stirred by Kalua's untimely death, for many of them had become fond of my young friend and had learned to appreciate his sweet, sunny nature and to admire his persistence and pluck. In the meantime I had been trying to solve the mystery of the shooting and was even persuaded by Dr. Richard Hodgson, the President of the Psychical Research Society, of which I was then a member, to consult the famous medium, Mrs. Piper, who was "controlled" by a "Dr. Phinuit." She was then giving regular seances under the observation of members of the Society. When he learned of the mystery surrounding Kalua's death, Mr. Hodgson asked me to bring something that the boy had worn at the time he was shot to a seance to be held at the house of Mrs. Thomas S. Perry. I attended this seance, at which there were present, among others, Mr. J. Templeman KALUA 177 Coolidge and his wife, who was a daughter of Francis Parkman the historian, Mr. and Mrs. William Tudor, Mr. and Mrs. T. S. Perry and Mr. Hodgson himself. I remember that when a silk handkerchief which Kalua had worn tied about his neck was passed to Mrs. Piper she asked for a paper and pencil and began writing "Kalua," "Aloha," "lei," etc.-quite a number of Hawaiian words. The result of the sitting was that she told us that the revolver was hidden in the cellar of the Bethel-she said that she could see it buried in the ground underneath the stairs leading up from the cellar. Several of us repaired at once to the Bethel after the seance and employed a man to dig, only to find that the floor of the cellar where the stairs went up was boarded over. We removed several floors, as it had evidently been the custom when making repairs in the Bethel to nail a new floor over a worn or decayed one from time to time; finally, reaching the ground and digging patiently where the medium had indicated, we found some pieces of broken china and an old corn-cob pipe, partly decayed, but no pistol. Later, when we ourselves had learned where the revolver had been hidden, Mrs. Piper was able to visualize the place. Mr. Hodgson wrote me some years later to ask me to verify his notes of the seance: 36 Great Ormond Street, Jan. 17, I888. Dear Mr. Briggs, I suppose it was you who asked, "Is this you, Kalua?" at your sitting with Mrs. Piper? 178 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU Were the words Ici and Kawai written and attempt at aloha given before any mention of these words by the sitters? And was Tawai (Kawai) pronounced without having been mentioned first by sitters? This is implied, but not specifically stated. Kindly answer at once. Yours sincerely, R. HODGSON. 36 Great Ormond Street, Jan. 17, I888. Dear Mr. Briggs, Re your sitting with Mrs. Piper, am I right in remembering that in "the hot box where the pepples are," pepples -pebbles = coals? Did Kalua, living, so call the coals? -and the furnace the hot box? Kindly reply at once. With kindest regards, Yours sincerely, R. HODGSON. Also I understand that you were present at one sitting only and that Mr. Perry and Mrs. Tudor were also present. Anyone else? During the time that Olson was in the police station and in jail I had been given free access to him by the District Attorney. I employed Pinkerton detectives and a lawyer, Melvin 0. Adams, all of whom worked on the case until it was taken up by the Grand Jury on July 6. Before the Grand Jury met, I had become convinced by my frequent interviews with Olson-and I spent hours with him-that Kalua had been accidentally I KALUA'S GRAVE, HANOVER MASSACHUSETTS KALUA'S DEATH 179 shot by Olson while examining, "fooling with," or working on the pistol. Olson would not admit this. He repeated his story that, while he and Kalua were together in the basement of the Seamen's Bethel, Kalua was engaged in cleaning and loading his revolver. He held it in his hand and was picking at the cartridges when suddenly from the muzzle which was turned toward his breast, there was an explosion and Kalua dropped to the floor. Olson said that he did not disturb the body and denied any further knowledge of the case; but finally, on July 8, while he was in the Charles Street Jail, he confessed to me what he had done with the revolver. He said that after the boy had fallen he had been so frightened by the thought that he would be accused of having killed the boy that he took the revolver and, after putting one cartridge into the water-closet out of harm's way, he had reached into the furnace and thrown the revolver into the damper at the bottom of the pipe which led to the cold air shaft. After he had told me this story a second time, I reported it to the police, and went to the Bethel again with Sergeant Simonds and Patrolmen Saxton and Green, accompanied by a tinsmith. Together we dissected the furnace and, reaching my arm at full length between the pipes at the back, I found the weapon, a five-barrelled revolver, of the pattern known as "Defender." Four of the chambers contained shells; the fifth was empty. The course of the bullet as shown in the autopsy tended to confirm Olson's story, Kalua being left-handed. 180 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU While we were at the Bethel I again asked Mrs. Johnson, the housekeeper, who had heard the pistol shot, to tell me of the events of the day of the shooting, exactly as she remembered them. She recounted the same story that she had told me previously and had repeated at the inquest. To the Pinkerton men she had expressed some doubt as to whether it had been a revolver shot which she had heard; she said that if it had been a revolver, it would have made a different and louder report. She had never known Kalua to drink, she said, but she had known Olson to do so, though not lately. Hulda Kulberg, her sister, said that Olson came upstairs ten minutes after she had heard the fall. I did not feel that a murder had been committed, but rather that an accident had taken place-whether or not Olson had told the truth; and now that he had got so far in his confession it seemed useless to force him to acknowledge that he had shot Kalua, even accidentally, as nothing could be gained by it. Therefore it was arranged with the District Attorney that, in presenting the case to the Grand Jury, the charge of murder should not be pressed, on condition that Olson would sign an agreement to report his whereabouts once in three months to the District Attorney's office. and that he should account fully for his time. As I felt that his month in prison and his mental torture had been quite sufficient punishment for whatever hand he might have had in Kalua's death, I agreed to this; and on July 9 the Grand Jury met and found no bill against Emil Olson. KALUA'S EFFECTS 181 Lawrence Bond, the Hawaiian Consul, gave me written authority to claim Kalua's effects and look after any affairs of his, as follows: His Hawaiian Majesty's Consulate, Boston, August 6, I887. This is to certify that L. Vernon Briggs, Esq., of Boston, has full authority on my behalf, as Hawaiian Consul, to claim, demand, receive and receipt for any moneys or other effects now in the hands or possession of any person, which belonged to John Kalua, Deceased, at the time of his death. LAWRENCE BOND, Hawaiian Consul. In a later letter Mr. Bond wrote: "I thank you most heartily for your unremitting efforts to secure the ends of justice in this most mysterious affair." I endeavored to locate Kalua's family in the Sandwich Islands but failed to learn anything more about him. He had once told me that his father was a carpenter in Kahuku and that his mother's name was Hana. My memory of Kalua is very distinct, especially as to his keen intelligence, his dignified bearing, his correct deportment and his scrupulous care of his dress and person. These characteristics are the more remarkable in view of the surroundings in which he must have been brought up, of his companionship with sailors on shipboard for so many voyages and of his youth. He was reticent, not only in regard to his 182 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU past life but also as to his future plans, excepting his expressed desire for an education that he might go home and be a power for good in the Islands. His bearing suggested the possibility that royal blood might flow in his veins, so his ambition never seemed ridiculous. This is brought out very clearly in a recent letter from my cousin, Miss Elizabeth Briggs, to whom I wrote asking for any data she might have of Kalua, with which to refresh my memory.-Miss Briggs is the daughter of John R. Briggs, at whose home the young stranger was so hospitably received. The Bancroft, 509 West 121st Street, February I8, 1926. My dear Vernon, You ask for facts, and the question suggests dates. These, I am sorry to say, I can not give; perhaps you have them. Kalua came on three different occasions. During his second visit to Boston you brought him to us. Either then or later he took supper with us and met some young people, among them Arthur Nash and June Blair, who had been especially invited to meet him and enjoy his vivid little descriptions of incidents of the voyage. Again, when the "Amy Turner" was in port, he appeared at our door unexpectedly in the darkness of evening, seeking a welcome after hours of searching, not having remembered our address. He had walked the city in many directions, looking for an environment that would seem familiar, and his pleasure at success and our welcome beamed brightly on his face. He had brought little gifts MR. AND MRS. W. H. LEWFRS AND THEIR CHILDREN, WILLIAM H. AND HATTIE KAIUA'S FRIENDS 183 a cane for my father, some little remembrance for June Blair, who had given him a drawing outfit, something for Arthur and for me. The last occasion was that spring morning, when he called to tell us about his classes at the Hanover Academy. He was then going to the sailors' boarding house to pack his chest, expecting to meet you in the late afternoon for the return to Hanover. (My memory may be at fault here. Perhaps he called the afternoon before he was killed. Of this I am sure, his death followed very soon after our last meeting. ) He gave to us and our friends the impression of a young prince. There was a simple dignity and elegance in word and bearing. When we expressed admiration of his good English, acquired on shipboard in the motley companionship of a crew of all nations, he replied, "When the Captain speaks, I listen." The most fastidious care of person and dress was always apparent, winning my mother's expert commendation. Now and then an unconscious touch of lordliness was manifest; when, on his second trip to Boston, we asked him how he managed to get about so quickly, he explained, "I take a cab." The last time he came to us, the joy over the opportunity for education under the care of the guardian he adored seemed to glow through his whole being; he expected to climb to the heights. Like Homer's heroes, he always had something of the grand style; the mean ending in store for him seemed unjustly tragic.. CHAPTER IX GUEST OF HAWAIIAN MINISTER PLENIPOTENTIARY, WASHINGTON, D. C.-JOHN W. LOGAN, JR.-PRESIDENT ARTHURI-NAUGURATIONW PRESIDENT CLEVELAND — GENERALS SLOCUM, ORDWAY, TERRY, SHERIDAN, HANCOCK-LINCOLN'S INAUGURATION-PRESIDENT CLEVELAND'S MESSAGE -FIREWORKS - INAUGURAL BALL ON February 9, 1883, Henry Alpheus Pierce Carter was appointed by King Kalakaua Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary to the United States, and for more than seven years he served his country in that capacity. One of the most picturesque experiences I shared with my Hawaiian friends after my return from the Islands was a visit to Washington at the time of the inauguration of President Cleveland. In February, I885, Mr. Carter wrote, inviting me to be his guest at the inauguration. I gladly accepted, and I left Boston several days beforehand in company with Bessie Otis, the wife of my cousin Theodore Otis, who was also on her way to Washington. We stopped in New York, and I visited Mr. James Smith, an old resident of Hanover and a friend of our family, who had become a man of wealth and then lived at 47 West 39th Street, and I dined with Bessie's brother, Dr. William 184 WASHINGTON, D. C. 185 J. Morton. Their father was the discoverer of ether, in whose honor a monument has been erected in the Public Gardens in Boston. It was well we started early for travelling was difficult as railways could not begin to accommodate the crowds on their way to Washington to see the inauguration. We took a night train on the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad-and my journal takes up the tale: March 2.-At 7 A.M. we found ourselves in Washington and I drove immediately to the Annex of the Hamilton Hotel, where Mr. Carter and his family are staying, and joined them at breakfast. On coming downstairs I was introduced to a Mr. and Mrs. Pratt and their two sons, first cousins of the President-Elect, and to a Mr. Hobbs from Boston and his daughter. I also met a number of my old friends-May Severance from San Francisco, Mr. and Mrs. Samuel Parker of Honolulu, Agnes and Belle Carter and Miss Nellie Judd. It was a bright spring morning and at io o'clock General Logan's son, John A. Logan, Jr., who is also a guest here, took us to a band concert and dance at the Marine Barracks, where I met more friends, Ethel Sperry from San Francisco, Jessie Keeler from Sacramento, Captain Ritchie and others. Mr. Logan and I also visited the War Department, with which his father is closely connected. At noon Belle and I returned to the hotel and after luncheon her father took us to the Capitol where we first visited the Diplomatic Gallery, after which he 186 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU showed us through the entire building and we saw the Supreme Court in session, with Chief Justice Waite in his antiquated costume. We were constantly meeting men of prominence and rank to some of whom Mr. Carter presented me. After a short visit to the Botanical Gardens we returned to the hotel where we spent a very pleasant evening. March 3.-Another bright and beautiful day. Belle Carter, Edith and I went to the White House, where we met President Arthur and were shown through the different rooms and allowed to pluck flowers and ferns in the private conservatory. I n the afternoon Belle and I made calls on the Pattersons, General Townsend and Mrs. J. Mott Smith, and I did more sightseeing-the National Museum, etc. In the evening Mr. Carter got up a wonderful oyster supper and Jack Logan was one of the guests. March 4, Inauguration Day. - This morning dawned bright and clear with bracing air. There was a stir and bustle about the city at an early hour; then came the tread of soldiery and the marching of civic organizations, with numerous bands of music. As the day advanced the sun grew hot. Decorations were to be seen everywhere. Stands had been built all along the line of march on Pennsylvania Avenue from the White House to the Capitol, and the seats soon began to fill up with great crowds. The windows of the houses were full of observers, who withdrew from time to time to well-spread tables within. INAUGURATION PRESIDENT CLEVELANDI 187 The President-Elect was at the Arlington Hotel. Early in the morning Senators Hawley, Sherman and Ransom had joined the President at the White House. At 9 o'clock we saw a large open barouche, upholstered with crimson satin and drawn by four spirited white horses appear before the White House gates. (This equipage I learned was hired fromn Nailor's Livery Stable and the horses are known as "Nailor's Arabian Steeds"!) A liveried coachman, wearing a huge fur cape, was on the box, and a footman similarly attired sat by his side. The heavy iron gate swung back to permit the turnout to enter, but unfortunately it struck one of the leaders in the head and knocked him down, and the other leader was also carried to the earth. They were both soon on their feet again, however, and the carriage drew up under the porte-cochere of the White House and waited. This equipage was so magnificent we thought it was for the President, but at half past nine Senator Hawley emerged and, taking his seat on the crimson cushions he was quickly driven to Willard's Hotel to call for Vice-President Elect Hendricks. We had been expecting that President Arthur would call for President-Elect Cleveland, but subsequent events showed that the program had been changed. Shortly after Senator Hawley's departure Mr. Arthur's four spanking bays, with banged tails, came dashing to the gates, drawing a large open barouche lined with white and black fur robes and driven by the veteran driver of the White House, Albert Hawkins, 188 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU in the familiar livery. Arriving at the door, the footman jumped from the box and assisted Senators Sherman and Ransom into the carriage, and they were driven to the Arlington to escort Mr. Cleveland to the White House. Soon the Vice-President Elect arrived and then the President's carriage returned with Mr. Cleveland himself. He was evidently in a happy frame of mind, for his genial face was wreathed in smiles. Promptly at 10.30 the President and the PresidentElect entered the President's carriage, which was driven to the place assigned to it in the line of march. The Vice-President-Elect and Senator Hawley followed in the crimson-lined barouche. As the carriages left the White House grounds, there was the wildest enthusiasm; men shouted, women screamed and there was a frenzied waving of handkerchiefs, parasols and hats. In the line of march the United States regular troops came first, and General Henry W. Slocum, the Chief Marshal, preceded the President's carriage with General Albert Ordway, his Chief of Staff. I drove to the Capitol with Mr. Carter. Pennsylvania Avenue was a sea of upturned faces, and the applause was deafening. As the Presidential party neared the Capitol, the mounted police had to push back the almost impenetrable mass of people-at first without any apparent result, but after five or six efforts, shouting and flourishing their clubs, they finally succeeded in breaking a way through the crowd. INAUGURATION OF PRESIDENT CLEVELAND 189 The steps of the Capitol were held by another crowd, who claimed that the Capitol belonged to the people and that nobody had a right to exclude them; but way was finally made. As the procession was forming to enter the Senate Chamber where the ceremony was to take place, Chief Justice Waite joined the Presidential party with the Sergeant-at-arms of the Senate. "There must be i 5o,ooo people in the crowd in front of us," said the Chief-Justice; "What do you think, Hawley?" Senator Hawley answered, "I should say there are 200,ooo-I never saw anything like it!" Mr. Arthur remarked to Mr. Cleveland upon the perfection of the arrangements for the comfort of those present, and recalled that when Lincoln was inaugurated he could find no place to put his hat and someone had to hold it for him while he delivered his inaugural. The Presidential party entered the Senate Chamber at about i o'clock and took their seats. Here were seen the faces of George Bancroft, Mr. Evarts, Senators Garland, Lamar, Gorman and Bayard; also Paine of Ohio, Frye and Colquitt. I had the privilege of sitting in the Diplomatic Gallery with Mr. Carter's party, and had an excellent view of the ceremonies. Mr. Cleveland's sisters, Miss Cleveland and Mrs. Hoyt, were in the President's Gallery. While the people were being seated, there was an outburst of applause, which we learned was caused by the announcement of the Grant Retirement Bill and the re 190 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU ception of the President's message nominating General Grant to the newly created vacancy. A picturesque feature was the arrival of the Diplomatic Corps of over fifty members in their uniforms, varying from the silken robes and mandarin caps of the Chinese to the formal dress and brilliant display of orders of the Europeans. Senator Sherman was sitting fourth from the President, and General Terry, General Sheridan and General W. S. Hancock sat facing him. The crowd behind the Presidential party, consisting of Senators, Members of Congress, etc., and their families, extending from the platform from which the President delivered his address back to the walls of the Capitol, must have numbered over 2000 persons. Chief Justice Waite administered the oath of office on a well-worn, gilt-edged, morocco-covered Bible, which had been given to Mr. Cleveland by his mother when he left home as a young man. After he had returned to the White House, President Cleveland reviewed the procession of over 25,000 men from a stand which had been erected for the purpose on the grounds in front of the White House. My journal continues: This evening I took Lily Sylvester (a neighbor of ours in Hanover, Massachusetts) to the fireworks, from 7.30 to 9, in the White Lot, as it is called, to the south of the White House. It was a magnificent display. There were 30 numbers on the program; flights of 00ooo, 2000 and a final glorious burst of 5000 rockets; INAUGURATION PRESIDENT CLEVELAND 191 and set pieces, including a fine picture of Jefferson, a monster cataract called "The Falls of Niagara," and the largest set piece ever fired in America, showing the National Capitol, with portraits of Cleveland and Hendricks, flanked by emblems of Industry and Commerce, with the motto "Peace and Prosperity." After the fireworks I took Bessie Otis to the Inaugural Ball which ended at 4 A.M. March 5.-Sight-seeing today, and in the evening to a euchre party given by Mr. and Mrs. Rathbone to a Mr. and Mrs. Milliken from Chicago. There were 41 tables and I enjoyed the play until I.30 in the morning when supper was served. March 6.-In the early afternoon I visited A. Hancock's saloon where there is a unique collection of historical souvenirs, including the bullet Mason fired, the rubbers worn by President Lincoln when shot, etc.! Later I called upon a number of friends, including Mr. Loring, Chief Engineer of the Navy, and went to a reception at the White House given by President Cleveland, to whom I was presented. I am leaving Washington tonight. March/ 9.-Back in Boston, after another pleasant visit in New York, just in time to see the "Amy Turner" sail again. CHAPTER X M EMORIES-LILIUOKALANI-PRINCESS RUTH KEELIKOLANI-QUEEN EMMA-FATHER DAMON —HON. SAMUEL M. DAMON-FIRST RAILROAD IN OAHU-HON. H. A. P. CARTER-DR. JOHN S. MCGREW —HON. JAMES M. COMLEY —MISS CHIARLOTTE A. CARTER Mv visit to Honolulu made a very deep impression upon my life. I was at an impressionable age, and during my long convalescence I had time to form intimacies, some of which have lasted all these years. My reunion with the Carters in Washington was only one of many pleasant meetings with these good friends. My journals of the 8o's and 9o's make frequent mention of visits of delightful people from Honolulu to Boston and to my home in Hanover, Massachusetts. I open these journals as they come to hand and find items like September 12, I883.-Took tea and spent the night at Miss Newell's. Met the Carters there.... Sepember 13, I883.-Called on the Ht. A. P. Carters at the Hotel Bellevue and took the children to the theater.. May 17, 1884.-Mr. and Mrs. Lewers and two children came out to spend Sunday (Hanover). After tea took Mrs. Lewers to drive.. September i, 1884.-Miss Bernice Parke and her brother 192 MEMORIES 193 came for a visit. We drove to the Daniel Webster place in Marshfield and ate lunch there.... April 5, I885.-Hessie Dickson and Will Lewers came to dinner and in the evening joined our family for service at King's Chapel. Afterwards we young people took a long walk.... April 7, i885.-In the evening Velma and I went to Miss Lizzie Newell's to hear her read a paper on her voyage with the Captain.... April 14, I885.-Went to the Bijou Theater with Mr. Sam Parker and the Coney girls.. June 27, I885.-Charlie and Agnes Carter and Nellie Judd came to spend the day... July I, i885.-Edward C. Damon (Eddie) of Honolulu spent the night with us in Hanover.... Septemtber 6, 1885.-I saw Charlie Carter off for Ann Arbor and Belle for Toledo, and later I saw Mrs. Damon off for Honolulu. She has made three nice calls on me. October r3, I885.-Belle Carter is again in town and I took her to the Park Theater to see Maggie Mitchell as "Mag the Midget." Quite a party from the Hawaiian Islands are stopping at the Bellevue. I met there today General Armstrong, Rev. Mr. Street and Mrs. Street, Mrs. A. F. Judd and General Hartwell. October 17, r885.-I saw the Hon. H. A. P. Carter and his daughters Belle and Cordie off for Washington this morning.. October 24, I885.-Willie C. Parke and his sister Annie H. Parke came to Hanover to make us a visit.. December 24, i885.-Willie Lewers of Honolulu came to Hanover to spend Christmas with us... May I, I887.-Took Captain Newell to dine.. -and so on for many years. 194 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU The names of Charlotte, May, Sadie and Oliver Carter, the children of Joseph 0. Carter, occur frequently in these diaries; Miss Bernice Parke and her brother Will were our guests on several occasions, as were Eddie Damon and the Lewerses, Mr. and Mrs. H. A. P. Carter with Belle, Agnes and Charlie, Mrs. A. F. Judd, Mrs. Dickson and her daughters Katie and Hessie, and the two beautiful Coney girls, who came to Boston first with their cousin, Mr. Sam Parker and later in the suite of the Royal family. Hawaiian people often brought their children to this country to be educated and these young people frequently stayed with us on their way to and from boarding schools. Some of them lived in Boston and went to day schools; Will Lewers and Oliver Carter visited us frequently while they were students at the Chauncy Hall School. The, former afterwards studied in Paris and went on the stage. I enjoyed renewing my friendship with Captain Newell whenever he was in port and missed him when he gave up his ship and went to Scotland to live and educate his children, after his wife's death. I saw Captain Johnson of the "Edward May" in Boston on several occasions and took my friends to visit his ship. Among the happiest memories of the times following my trip to the Hawaiian Islands are of the reunions with my more intimate friends from Honolulu. I was naturally interested in the Hawaiian Royal Family, some members of which I had come to know while in Honolulu. King Kalakaua had returned MEMORIES 195 from his trip around the world in November, I88I, some months after I came away, and he and Kapiolani had been crowned with great rejoicing on February 12, 1882. In addition to other native ceremonies there was much dancing of hulas on this occasion, and the HAWAIIAN GAZETTE of the day speaks of these Coronation Hulas as "the monstrous incarnation of benighted phallic worship." As there were various rumors connected with the death of Princess Likelike (Mrs. Cleghorn), I wrote to Mrs. H. A. P. Carter for information, and received the following reply: Washington, D. C., April 17, I887. My dear Vernon, I have received your letter from Tarboro, N. C. In regard to your question about the death of Likelike, we feel that there was no truth in the article written for the New York Herald. She had been sick a long time, which sickness sapped her strength. She wanted to live, and Mr. Macintosh, her pastor, held satisfactory interviews with her to the last. It may be said truly that as she was born after the Hawaiians had been taught and interested in Christianity, there was no reason for believing that she had any lingering superstitions, as the older natives may have. The lava flow continued with great force after her death -In fact the finest display came after. We have had charming visits from Mr. and Mrs. P. C. Jones, Mr. Oscar White and Mr. Charles M. Cook, all of Honolulu. My sister Nellie went home with the Joneses; they must have landed yesterday. Charlie's address is the same. He has had to work very 196 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU hard this year; he graduates in June and is in a hurry to start in business. We have no plans for the summer yet. It is still very delightful in Washington, warm and bright. Give my aloha to your mother and sister. Yours truly, S. A. CARTER. In the spring of 1887 I made the following entries in my journal: Sunday, May 8.-Queen Kapiolani and suite and Mrs. Dominis arrived in Boston this morning. May io.-I called on Queen Kapiolani, General Dominis and his wife, the Princess Liliuokalani, at the Parker House, iI to I. May I2.-Took my sister and Addie Hersey to a reception to Queen Kapiolani and Princess Liliuokalani at Mechanics' Building. May i3.-Oliver Carter and I called on Queen Kapiolani and the Princess Mrs. Dominis this morning. May 14.-Oliver and I spent the morning with the royal party and went at I o'clock to see them off on the Boston & Providence Railroad.-A very pleasant time. This royal visit was a very impressive one. The city of Boston surpassed itself in the way of entertainment, spending $i8,ooo on the royal guests. 12,000 persons attended the reception in Mechanics' Hall, where the Queen graciously hung a garland around the neck of Mayor Hugh O'Brien! Kalakaua died suddenly on January 20, I891, at the Palace Hotel, San Francisco, and his remains were taken back to Honolulu on the U. S. War Vessel LILIUOKALANI 197 "Charleston," Admiral Brown. On February 28 the Princess Liliuokalani was proclaimed Queen. As all the world knows, she was deposed in I893. She was a sweet and gracious lady with the welfare of her people at heart, and she had many devoted adherents. Most of my friends in Honolulu were her loyal followers. When she ascended the throne she sent for Joseph O. Carter and asked him to form a cabinet. He refused this honor, and she then offered him any position he might desire in the government, either at home or abroad; but Mr. Carter was interested then and always in matters which he felt to be of greater importance than personal honors and aggrandizement. In the end he simply accepted, at the Queen's request, the position of Privy Councillor. Liliuokalani was not always a wise ruler. It was unfortunate that in the troublous times at the end of her reign she did not take the advice of experienced and disinterested men like Mr. Carter who had her welfare and that of her people at heart, but depended more upon some of her less enlightened advisors. She made another visit to Boston in i896, three years after the change of government, and stopped for a time with Mrs. William Lee, on Beacon Street, Brookline. I saw a great deal of her during this visit and I still have a letter from Mrs. Lee, dated January 9, I896, which shows that Liliuokalani still kept her royal title: "At the request of Her Majesty, I write to inform you that she leaves town today for a short trip and, upon her return, will be pleased to see you again." 198 A AIEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU Liliuokalani lived to see many changes in her beloved Islands. She died on November i, 1917, aged 79. She was the last of the Hawaiian monarchs and her funeral ceremonies were celebrated with all the pomp of the old days, and ancient customs were rerived. These ancient funeral rites were practiced in the Hawaiian Islands until very recently-if, indeed, they are not still in vogue. When anyone died it was customary among the natives for the relatives of the deceased to utter loud cries and wails incessantly for several days in succession. In their notes the wordor sound- Auwe was uttered, with a long-protracted drawing out of the last syllable which was indescribably doleful. To wake in the dead of night, as I did on several occasions, and listen to the solemn "Auwee-e-e" was indeed a dismal experience. To augment their emotions, they hired professional wailers-a heathenish custom, which among the more civilized took the form of paid quartets of singers who appeared at funerals and stirred up the emotions of the mourners. On the death of monarchs wails were heard over hills and valleys from the whole people. The rites at royal funerals were very elaborate. I have kept data of several of these in connection with members of the Hawaiian royalty whom I met. The funerals of Princess Ruth and Queen Emma were particularly picturesque. Princess Ruth Keelikolani died at Kailua, Hawaii, in the same house where her Grandfather, Kameha PRINCESS RUTHT KEELIKOLANI 199 meha I died in i820, in peaceful slumber, on the morning of May 24, i883. Before she died she composed a poem, called in her language "A-A," a lament or farewell in which she took leave of the great mountains of her favorite Isles, the waves of the ocean, the beach, the familiar places, the houses and the friends. Queen Emma and Mrs. Bishop were at her bedside when she passed away. Her remains, embalmed and placed in a leaden coffin, were brought to Honolulu, where a funeral ceremony took place on June 17. "The funeral cortege," says the account in the Hawaiian newspaper, "was 27 minutes in passing a given point. 800 persons on foot and 28 carriages passed in the procession. -. The Poola Society, 100 strong, drew the funeral carriage." For order of the procession see pages 201-202. I have preserved a fuller description of the funeral of Queen Emma Kaleleonalani, who died on April 25, i885. On May 9 her remains were removed from her late residence on Nuuanu Street to the Kawaiahao Church, at 8 o'clock in the evening. There were wails which had continued from the time of her death until the time set for the funeral! Flashing torches and somber Kahili plumes on their long staffs surrounded the coffin. For two weeks she had lain in state in her own house, where nothing had been touched since her death. When her remains were carried down the long slope which extended from the veranda to the hearse, kahili bearers flanked each side with their dark plumes, while two white kahilis marked the spot 200 A MEDICAL ST JUDENT IN HOXNOLULU where the coffin passed into the outer air. At the entrance were soldiers on guard; on the veranda were grouped officers in uniform, ministers of the government and wailing women sounding the melancholy "Auwe!" The dreary wail was started by half a dozen within and taken up by hundreds of voices without; and from time to time, as the wail died out in the distance, the younger voices would sing some soft melody. As the casket reached the hearse the women of the household sent forth wail after wail-that hopeless wail only heard at such times-which was reechoed by thousands of throats on the way to the church. The effect of the light of the torches upon the kahzlis held above the hearse was very weird. These flashing torches sent forth a brilliant crimson light, then a gleam of white followed by a ray of yellow; then all was dark again and then the flashes reappeared. The catafalque was drawn by the Poola Society, ioo strong. At the church the military escort was dismissed. Words fail to describe the gorgeousness, the barbaric magnificence, of the display within! The long galleries were hung with heavy folds of black; the supporting columns were twined with black and white; on either side of the main aisle were ranged the Royal kahilis, with their black feathers of the oo, gorgeous plumes of the peacock, scarlet feathers of the parrot, quaint feathers of the bo'sun bird. The brilliancy of the flashing colors fairly took ones breath away; it was magnificent! I IL3L LRl)q-~l~II - — C51 I ORDER OF PROCESSION -FORTLH E UTNERA- IL — OFHer late Royal Highness Ruth Keelikolani. Undertaker, Marshal of the Kingdom, Mechanic's Benefit Union, Honolulu Fire Department, Attending Physicians, Konohiki of Lands of Her late Royal Highness, His Excellency the Governor of Oahu and Maui and Staff, Band, Marines from U. S. S. Hartford, Mamalahoa, King's Own, Prince's Own, King's Guard, Servants of Her late Royal Highness, The Clergy of the Roman Catholic Church, His Lordship the Right Reverend Bishop of Olba, Vicar-Apostolic of the Hawaiian Islands, The Clergy of the Anglican Church in Hawaii, His Lordship the Right Reverend Bishop of Honolulu, Protestant Clergy, Officiating Clergyman, Ahahui Opiopio Puuwai Lokahi, Ahahui Poola, a==<t rv rr rJq w > T; r m In' - t-t a3 1 8^ ^ y I) MFA ' I 201 Carriage of the Honorable Mrs. B. P. Bishop, Carriage of Her Majesty the Queen Dowager, Carriage of Her Majesty the Queen, His Majesty's Staff, Carriage of Her Royal Highness the Princess Liliuokalani, Carriage of Her Royal Highness the Princess Likelike, Carriage of Her Royal Highness Princess Pomaikelani, Carriage of Her Royal Highness Princess Kekaulike, Carriage of Her late Royal Highness, The Chancellor, His Majesty's Ministers. Diplomatic Corps, Nobles, Judges of the Supreme Court, Privy Councillors, Consular Corps, Captain and Officers of U. S. S. Hart-ford, Circuit Judges, Clerks of Government Departments, Collector-General of Customs, Custom-house Officers and Officers of the Customs, Sheriffs of the different Islands, Members of the Bar, Foreign Residents, Hawaiian Population Generally. Hawaiian Cavalry, Police Force, a,3 The Procession will form at 2 o'clock P. M., SUNDAY the 17th instant on Emma street. Those who are to precede the Catafalque, will form between Beretania street and Emma Square, and those who are to follow on Emma street iauaka of the residence of the late Royal Highness. The Procession will start at 3 o'clock P. M. precisely, and will proceed through Beretania street to Nuuanu street to the Royal Mausoleum. The Procession will be under the direction of the Governor of Oahu and Maui. KAAKOPUA HALE, June I, I883. I 202 QUEEN EMMA 203 Some of the bright red, yellow, gray and black plumes were sent by His Majesty the King. Many of them had names, as for instance two large yellow-andblack kahilis were called Malulani and Laiku; these were of great value and had been given to the late Queen when she was a child. The golden feathers in these were taken from underneath the wings of the oo bird, only one feather being found under each wing; they were priceless. The handle of one of the peacockplumed kahilis was made of human bones and was called Kaneoneo. A large and ancient kahili made of black feathers was named Lupahira. The most ancient of all was made of kapa cloth in the shape of two round balls, and its name was Pulola. On the following day, Sunday, it rained copiously, and the old natives felt assured that the skies were weeping for their dead Queen. It is said that never for years had there been such a downpour. The singing of meles and the wailing of the mourners had been kept up through the night. The rain fell for 24 hours, a fall of io inches, which made sad havoc with the streets and bridges and was so severe as to cause a postponement of the royal funeral. For a week the Queen's body lay in the church but was finally laid to rest beside that of her husband, Kamehameha IV, on Sunday, May 17. During the two weeks that the remains were lying at the house and the week at the church relays of six natives, who were relieved every two hours, stood on either side of the coffin, waving black kahilis. Around their necks were collars made 204 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU of human hair, from each of which was suspended a hook of ivory, inherited by them from chiefs of high rank. In the funeral cavalcade there were 65 large ka/zilis and an equal number of smaller ones surrounding the catafalque, their gorgeous colors and rich plumage outrivalling the most ornate display of modern pomp. Another royal lady who left a strong impression upon my mind was the Honorable Bernice Pauahi Bishop, the last of the Kamehamehas. She died in Honolulu on October I6, 1884, and her great faith in the industry and intelligence of her people is shown in her will, by which she left the greater part of her immense fortune for the benefit of her own race; in part for the founding of two schools, one for boys and one for girls, to be called the Kamehameha Schools, for the education of all Protestant Hawaiians of pure or partaboriginal blood; and in part to be devoted to the support of orphans and others in indigent circumstances. Sbhe provided that the schools should have both industrial and agricultural branches. Her funeral was very impressive and conducted with much native pomp and ceremony. The casket was a most elaborate piece of workmanship made entirely from two native light and dark woods, koa and kou, so highly polished as to resemble marble, the immovable handles being finely carved and so beautifully joined as to seem part of the whole wood. All these years I have corresponded with several friends in Honolulu, but especially with Mrs. S. M. QUEEN EMMA RALELEONALANI, i88i FATHER DAMON 205 Damon. Nothing can ever dim my memory of her as I knew her so many years ago and of her great kindness to me when I lay so ill, a stranger, in her beautiful home. Her letters have kept me in touch with the family doings. Her father-in-law, the Rev. Samuel Chenery Damon, the "Father" Damon of the Bethel Church, resigned his pastorate in 1883, at the age of 70. Mrs. Damon wrote me a year afterwards, on October 30, i884: "He felt at the age of 70 that he should resign and a younger man be called to fill his place. Measures were taken to secure a new pastor, and a month ago we gave welcome, in a public reception, to the new pastor and his wife." Father Damon died in Honolulu on Saturday, February 7, I885. His funeral took place the following day in the church where he had preached so long. Among other prominent persons who were present and paid their last tribute of respect to one who had been with them for so many years were King Kalakaua, Governor and Mrs. Dominis, and other government officials and the Trustees of Oahu College, as well as a host of friends. Many of the poorer people among the mourners at his funeral were deeply affected, for Father Damon had been a friend to all about him in their joys and sorrows. His wife survived him for five years; she died in August, I890, at the age of 64. Mrs. Damon's letter from which I have already quoted continues: 206 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU "We had a delightful visit from Captain Newell and his sister. They were with us one evening at dinner, and on several other occasions we met them, and we were down to see their ship sail, bound for China. I did not have the opportunity to make you some guava jelly, but shelled and packed a bucket of tamarinds, which Sam and I carried to the 'Amy Turner' and placed in the care of Captain Newell. "Captain Newell's future prospects are pleasing. He showed us the face of a bright, interesting-looking young lady, and I hope some day we may have a better acquaintance with her." She added items in regard to her children, saying that Eddie was i i years old in October of that year and May 7. These two children had been my intimate companions during my long convalescence in their hospitable home. They called me "Uncle Vernon." Some years after my return home I sent Eddie a knife for Christmas. When it arrived the wrappings had been broken and the address lost; there was nothing to identify it but a card inscribed "From Uncle Vernon." But this was sufficient. The postmaster advertised it, asking what little boy had an "Uncle Vernon," and Eddie claimed the knife immediately. Again Mrs. Damon wrote: Nuuanu Valley, January 17, I888. My dear Vernon, The San Francisco mail closes soon and my letters are not written; but I can not fail to send you a line, thanking you, dear Vernon, for the many Christmas remembrances HoN. SAMUEL M. DAMON 207 sent. "Uncle Vernon" is a household word with us and the children, as well as the older members of the family, have only to see the writing on a package to know the kind sender.... I trust you will sometime come back to the Islands. It is seven years since you were here. In that time many changes have taken place; new houses have been built and many strangers have come in. But still I think most of your old friends are here and would be glad to welcome you to these shores. Love to the dear ones of your family! Ever sincerely your friend, HATTIE M. DAMON. Mr. Damon was a sound business man with very high ideals. He was always a very good friend to me. I have preserved but two of his letters; the first is a very short one, referring to the money which I had earned in Honolulu and had not used, and which I had left with him for investment. It is dated from Honolulu -- March 15, I887. Dear Vernon, Your money in invested at 9% in bonds and mortgages of the Paukaa Plantation, and I am reinvesting the accrued interest. Sincerely your friend, S. M. DAMON. King Kalakaua had appointed Mr. Damon Member of his Privy Council in i884, and he was Minister of Finance in 1889 and I890. In the last year of his official service under Kalakaua he wrote me: 208 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU Honolulu, Hawaiian Is., April 5, 1890. My dear Vernon, In June the Government will issue the biennial reports of all departments, and I shall take pleasure in sending copies to you. My "school-book education" was very limited, but my travels and mercantile experience have given me something of an academic course; but education so complex and varied has never been my portion as the collegiate course of twelve months' service in the Government. It is hard raps and fault-finding here, I can assure you, and it ought to make me contented when I retire to private life. Just now I am undergoing a mild form of castigation for appointing Charles Carter on the Board of Tax Appeals, because his father owns stock in a corporation which in turn owns stock in a corporation under appeal. There were two other officers on the Board, and the decision was unanimous. At home we are moving along finely and once more, after ten months' absence, Hattie is again at the dinner table. The little boy is doing well and, from the disturbance he has caused, will make either a politician or a LL.D. some day. By the way, Eddie must be going east to some academy to fit him for college, and I would like to know your opinion of Andover and the date that Academy opens for the coming school year. With kindest regards, I remain, Yours truly, S. M. DAMON. On the eve of his retirement from his position as Minister of Finance under Kalakaua, November 24, i89o, the Honorable S. M. Damon was conferred the HION. SAMUEL M. DAMON,209 Grand Cross of the Royal Order of Kalakaua by His Majesty the King, in the Throne Room of Iolani Palace, in recognition of the many services rendered to his sovereign, the State and the allies of the Kingdom, and of the ability shown in his administration as Minister of Finance. Later, for several years, Mr. Damon was Minister of the Interior. After the overthrow of the monarchy, in I893, he was Vice-President of the Provisional Government. He retired from public life in June, i90oo With his whole fortune he had backed the new government, and as Minister of Finance, had organized its finances. Mrs. Damon wrote me of the exciting events of the change of government in 1893 and the various uprisings which followed. So much has been published on the subject of Hawaiian politics that I will not go into it at length, but will merely quote one more of Mrs. Damon's interesting letters: Nuuanu Valley, February 6, I895. My dear Vernon, In the midst of the quiet and apparent peace after the holidays had passed- and so delightfully!-I had seated nlyself to writing letters in acknowledgement of remembrances from friends across the sea, when suddenly and without warning an uprising against the Government was upon us. And now I am at a loss to know what letters I did write. By the last steamer I sent you a few papers, knowing your interest in all that pertains to the welfare of Hawaii nei. It is a long chapter in history to recount all that has 210 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU occurred since the night of January 6, and after the excitement of the month we feel more or less wearied. The excitements have not ended. Today Liliuokalani is on trial. She was without doubt the real instigator of the disturbance, and several have strongly urged her, in defense of her own people to plead guilty; but she pleads not guilty and denies all knowledge of or plans for a rebellion. There are strong evidences to be brought forward which will, however, convict her. As I can, I will forward you the papers which give correct accounts. It was simply wonderful that Sunday night when the alarm was first given how quickly men sprang, as it were, into existence! In two hours I500 men stood under arms and every street was guarded. It was Halt! below us, opposite us and Halt! above us-no one allowed to go by without a pass; and for three nights few closed their eyes. Had the rebels gone into the town, as they planned, the consequences would have been frightful; men, women and children, all would have suffered alike. It was a merciful and kind Providence that spared us-God led us in a wonderful way. When the clouds have hung darkest and destruction threatened, a way has opened and difficulties have vanished. Trusting that the new year has opened brightly for you. and that each member of your family is well, and with kind love for all, in which the family unite with me, Sincerely your friend, HATTIE M. DAMON. Many sorrows have visited Mrs. Damon in the years that have passed. I was much concerned in i898 when I learned that her son Henry had been injured while out shooting near the Pali with Judge Fuller and the two Judd boys. He had climbed a tree with his fowling-piece which being accidentally HON. SAMUEL M. DAMON 211 discharged, the solid mass of shot entered his thigh and some of it passed through into his breast. It was a very serious wound and he narrowly escaped death. S. Edward Damon, the little "Eddie" of my journals, was the oldest son. He visited us in Hanover on several occasions and I was very fond of him. He was married in i899 and lived to be over 30 years of age. I n 1904 he was stabbed by a Porto Rican laborer whom he had caught stealing a lantern, and he died almost immediately. He was a graduate of Oahu College, Yale University and the School of Chartered Accountants of Glasgow. When he died he was Director of the Hilo Railroad Company, President of Whitney & Marsh Company, Trustee of Oahu County, President of the Honolulu Golf Club and Treasurer and Manager of the Home for I ncurables; and he was gradually assuming the duties of his father in the banking house of Bishop and Company. Justice was not slow in following up the crime of his murder. Mr. Samuel M. Damon lived for many years after his retirement from public life. He died on July i, 1924, three months before his 79th birthday, in his beautiful home at Moanalua, overlooking the gardens of which he had been so fond. (He had inherited from Mrs. Bishop this beautiful tract of land at Moanalua, containing many lagoons.) For years he had been an invalid and his devoted wife had given up all other interests that she might minister to him during his failing health. Surviving him were his wife, his daughter Mary and his sons Henry F. and Doug 212 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU las, and five grandchildren. Mr. Damon, in addition to the Hawaiian honors which I have already cited, had been decorated with the Order of the Golden Treasure, Japan; Knight of the Order of Christ, Portugal, and Victoria Jubilee Medal. He had also been decorated by the French Government in 1889 and with the Grand Cross, R. O. K., i890. He had many interests and was a member of the Societe des Beaux Arts, Paris, and the Royal Society of Arts, London. Mrs. Damon's father, the Rev. Dwight Baldwin, M.D., was a member of the household when I was resident with the Damons, and many were the evenings he entertained me with stories of his early life as a missionary. But his kindness did not stop there. He was always interested in what the other fellow was doing and drew from me the history of my early life and present interests. I found him a sympathetic friend and a wise councillor. He was well over 80 when I knew him and he lived to pass his 87th year. He died at his daughter's home on January 3, i886, having retained his physical and mental vigor to a remarkable degree. When I was in Honolulu Dr. Baldwin was the sole survivor of the third reinforcement to the American Mission to the Hawaiian Islands, arriving in I831. He was born in Durham, Connecticut, in 1798, graduated from Yale College in 182i and taught at Kingston, Catskill and Durham, New York, before completing his professional education. He graduated from Auburn Theological Seminary in 1829 and re FIRST RAILROAD IN OAHU 213 ceived his diploma from the Harvard Medical School in I830. He sailed from New Bedford December 28, 1830, in the ship "New England." He was a physician as well as a preacher and for some years he was the only missionary physician for all the families on the Islands of Maui and Molokai and his services and skill were called into requisition at all hours of the day and night. When the smallpox ravaged the Islands in 1853 so successful was he that, although io,ooo Hawaiians died of this terrible disease, only 250 of these were on the Island of Maui where he was working. He was especially interested in the study of the ill effects of tobacco and liquor and began publishing tracts urging the diminution or suppression of the liquor traffic as early as I837. I found Dr. Baldwin deeply interested in my work of vaccination which he followed minutely, as he had kept up his interest in the prevention and cure of smallpox ever since his terrible experience in the great epidemic. We kept up a pleasant correspondence for some time and I have already quoted one of his letters, and for many years his granddaughter, Miss Lillian C. Baldwin, wrote me breezy letters full of the local news which interested me. In one of these she describes her first ride in what was very nearly the first train of cars in the Sandwich I slands: "I was seated on a trunk with a big umbrella over my head. The trunk was on top of a pile of lumber laid on two tramway cars; behind me were half-a-dozen coal cars, 214 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU and before us as many cars piled with baggage of various sorts, and roosting all over this were 50 or 60 Kanakas and Chinamen. The 'palace car,' which was just ahead of the engine, was filled with natives. It consisted of an open car with a bench on each side." Next to the Damons, my most intimate friends in the Hawaiian Islands were the Carters. The hospitable home of the Joseph 0. Carters was at all times open to me when I was in Honolulu and I was as welcome there as at the Damons'. The H. A. P. Carters were also most kind in entertaining me. These brothers each rendered distinguished service to the Hawaiian Government, but in very different ways. On account of the importance of his duties as trustee for various estates and for members of the Royal family, Mr. Joseph 0. Carter was tied down in Honolulu, and consequently was less well known abroad than his younger brother. I am told that many honors were offered him which he was unable to accept on account of these confining duties, and many of these honors fell to his brother, whose larger income and greater leisure gave him opportunity to represent his country in other lands and to do justice to such titles as were showered upon him. I have said much of Mr. Joseph 0. Carter in this book and in my book on the "Amy Turner," and I am still in touch with members of his family. The "little Sadie Carter" of my journal is Mrs. William H. Babbitt. She is now living in Cambridge, Massachusetts, while her son is in college and also to be near her HON. H. A. P. CARTER 215 daughter, who has recently been married. Charlotte and Oliver are still in Honolulu, the latter a member of the firm of Bishop & Company, and Mary (May) Carter and her sister Rachel live in San Francisco. As I have stated elsewhere, Mr. J. O. Carter lived until i909, but his brother, H. A. P. Carter, died many years earlier, on November i, I90I, at the Everett House in New York City, while he was still Hawaiian Minister to this country. He had always taken a deep interest in the political affairs of Hawaii, and perhaps it was happier for him that he did not live to see the overthrow of the monarchy which he had so faithfully served. He had represented his country at the courts of England, Germany and Portugal as Minister Plenipotentiary, and had served his government more than eight years as Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary to the United States. Of his children, Charlie was killed in the Hawaiian revolution; Belle is Mrs. Frederick Crehore; Agnes is Mrs. John Gait; the oldest son, George, is now living in Honolulu. I shall never forget the hospitality and kindnesses of Dr. John S. McGrew and his wife, nor the joy it gave me to have their children, Tarn and Kate, run to me and jump up in my arms whenever I came on the porch of their house and they were there. When Dr. McGrew died his loss was felt by all classes, for he administered to the high and the lowly. No one was too poor to receive his attentions. He never refused his skill to anyone in need of it. His wife's 216 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU death was also keenly felt by the poor, as well as by society, of which she was a prominent member. Dr. John S. McGrew was born in Lancaster, Ohio, Dec. 23, 1825. While in his infancy his parents moved to Cincinnati, where his father was one of the founders of the "Cincinnati Inquirer," destined to become one of the most influential papers in the United States. After a public school education he entered Oxford College at the age of fifteen and after graduating therefrom took the four years course from the Ohio Medical College. He volunteered at the outbreak of the Civil War. He was first appointed surgeon to the 83rd Ohio, from which he was detailed as chief surgeon of the division, and later on examination before the New York examining board was promoted to staff surgeon of the U. S. -volunteers. He served under Generals McClellan and Sherman with distinction, being awarded the rank of lieutenant colonel. Once by his quick wit in answering a rebel -raider chief he saved a Union major general from capture. Dr. McGrew also served on the staff of General Grant. Dr. McGrew's settling in Honolulu came about in a peculiar manner. A man owing him quite a sum of money left the U. S. and the doctor started in pursuit of him determined he would confront the debtor if he had to go to the uttermost parts of the world. He overhauled him in Honolulu, succeeded in obtaining a settlement, part of which was his acquisition of the homestead in the heart of the town, DR. JNO. S. MCGREW, I88o AD, I I A, I\ DR. JOHN S. MCGREW 217 where the Young Hotel now stands, which for many years thereafter was a haven of hospitality for U. S. naval officers visiting Honolulu, as well as the frequent scene of local social entertainments. Many distinguished men and women were entertained by Doctor and Mt'rs. McGrew during their visits here. The preliminary meetings for arranging celebrations of the Fourth of July were often held in the beautiful lanai overlooking the patriotic doctor's beautiful grounds. There were few homes in Honolulu which rivaled the doctor's in tropical beauty unspoiled by excessive artificiality. He was in charge of the marine hospital, where the University Club now stands, for a number of years. From his arrival in i866, he rapidly gained a large practice and long before his retirement several years ago was the acknowledged dean of the profession. He died Oct. 17, i9ii, following a fractured hip on the 9th. From a Detroit paper at the time of Mrs. McGrew's death I quote: "In the death of Mrs. J. S. McGrew there passed away one of the belles of early Detroit. Mrs. McGrew was a daughter of Reynold Gillet. She came of old Connecticut stock, her ancestors having come to this country in i632 (on her Father's side a descendant of an old French Huguenot family who left after the revocation of the edict of Nantes —on her Mother's, Charlotte Mack, a descendant of the Earl of Montague of Londonderry, I reland, whose daughter came to Lyme, Conn., and some of the family went to Londonderry, New Hampshire, then on to Ontario). She died in Honolulu, June i8, 1912." 218 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU The daughter, Kate McGrew, married Dr. Charles B. Cooper, and they and their children now live in Honolulu. The son, J. Tarn McGrew, is married and resides in Paris. During the World War, when I was stationed at Commercy, near St. Mihiel, France, as Chief Consultant at that Hospital Center, I was billeted in a French officer's house which had been deserted, and when I took possession the ducks and hens were using the chairs and beds to roost on at night. My orderly had just got it fairly clean when one day a large touring car stopped at the front gate. In it I noticed a French General, and a handsome younger officer beside him-the latter, in full uniform, got out, came into the house and stood before me. We looked at each other a few moments, and then embraced, for each recognized the other. He was Tarn McGrew. The officer whom he was with and on whose staff he was, was General Gouraud. Tarn had heard I was in the vicinity and had sought me out. It was a happy reunion after more than forty years, and since then our families have had several pleasant meetings in Paris. General James M. Comley was the American Minister in Honolulu during my residence there. I have already referred to him in my "Around Cape Horn to Honolulu in the Bark 'Amy Turner.'" I spent several pleasant evenings with him and found him a most interesting man. Before my arrival, in I880, an adventurer named Moreno planned to capture the Islands, but was thwarted by the firmness of General HON. JAMES M. COMLEY 219 Comley, as representative of the United States Government, and our government upheld his course. General Comley had been a brave soldier during the Civil War, and had won the stars of a Brigadier General, not by politics, but by meritorious service in the field. He was much beloved by the American residents in the Islands; but he left Honolulu in i882 to return to his home in Ohio. He was an intimate friend of ExPresident Hayes, and gave me letters to President Hayes which resulted in a pleasant correspondence with the Ex-President upon subjects in which I was interested. In his letters to me, President Hayes always spoke most warmly of General Comley. Another prominent character, whom I met in Honolulu but whom I did not mention in my journal, was Claus Spreckles. He divided his time between the Islands and San Francisco where, in I872, he was already a successful sugar refiner. He first turned his attention to the Sandwich Islands in i875, being led to do so by his desire to control a raw sugar market adequate to the extension of his growing trade and the capacity of his sugar refinery. He began by assisting the struggling plantations that were then in existence (before the Sugar Treaty with the United States) and afterwards he became a planter, and his investments were extensive. Kalakaua was always in need of funds, and a favorable loan by Mr. Spreckles soon enlisted the friendship of the King and he secured large tracts of land on Maui for a nominal sum. George Augustus Sala said at the time "One can scarcely be 220 A MEDICAL STUDENT IN HONOLULU in Honolulu, keeping one's eyes and ears tolerably wide open, without coming to a full knowledge of the fact that the Hawaiian Kingdom is socially and commercially 'bossed' by the United States of America and the State of California in particular." After the Sugar Treaty was made, its effect was soon felt in the Islands; property quadrupled in value; struggling sugar planters who had been assisted by Mr. Spreckles grew rich, and laborers' pay increased from $8 to $20 a month-and Mr. Spreckles was benefited more than anyone, directly and indirectly! An interest in the Hawaiian Islands takes one far and wide over the world and I must bring these reminiscences to a close, as I think I may fitly do by quoting one more letter. In I919, desiring to know what had become of some of my old friends in Honolulu, I wrote to Miss Charlotte Carter, daughter of the late Joseph 0. Carter. I had been so much at their home when I was in the Islands that she knew my friends there and being still a resident of Honolulu, had been in touch with them ever since. Her letter in answer to my inquiry follows. (It was written before Mr. Damon's death, and I have already given some later news of others to whom she refers.) Honolulu, H. I., September 14, I9I9. My dear Vernon, It is pleasant to renew old friendships, and so I will do my best in response to your request to bring you up to date with some of your Honolulu friends. Ar XI, 7 S Stage MaDageer qw, Z di'm JON ;t,, ,f* 11 , MMM; M - I Q.- I -,.11. V a, I T, ir I f I -4',' a 11 I - - t, v t1,-,, I I L I I V i: 1. I-i t "A, I,, I I;, I i i " 'i,- I j -I ". - -1 II,4 f-,;, 1, t, I A" 11 I, 'i, w is I-20 Mi, i Ad` illm - It I -1 - Pi, I! 1-, v klj -w-, lt 44,, 4,yfa ""-k 4, 7'r.?oV "-W -,; U t i 7v,-, NO& g* I"rg WI I 71.4' ; I 4 ia v I- - 'I - C", f, 'I'll I I wl., - rf - nl ll- V-'Ir a -AI ,, ftV Artm, it ag M m -."Os " — gg i -20,, -7 `!, 77,14 " J,- 520, W, Z v aR, 11W, WU oll lill.", gk L,* g u M4 iff lop I 2 Eric,, (T lit, 01-.1 -; L t, I 11 -V I.,,4t, ` i 41, 41 Al twk at 2 lk or 410 O"a;s U A I'me A, 4 7 '9 4* r; #0 I " Pt 4, I I Al wee Al, W-T WI All N m -sow, atI u I 0;11 o a moa'N' 71 14 r c? et I o G em, f J P ri n t tnv Ottc4e, Hvnv'9,rloA Miss CHARLOTTE A. CARTER 221 Mr. and Mrs. Damon are living in the new house on their Moanalua estate. Ned's son, Renny, is at school in the east, returning to Honolulu for the summer holidays. This year on his return it was to find that his elder sister, Esme, had died a few days before. Henry Damon married his brother Ned's widow, and they also live at Moanalua. Lizzie Renjes (nee Coney) finally made her way back to Honolulu at the end of the War. Aunt Kate and Uncle Robert (Lewers) are well and enjoying a country home built out at Wahiawa, the pineapple country. Harriet's boy, Robert, is in the Honolulu Military Academy, but the daughter, Catherine, attends a California school. Willie Lewers has some years since given up the stage and is living with his father and mother. He recently drilled the boys of the H. M. A. in "The Merchant of Venice," in which my nephew, Howard Babbitt, played a part. Howard's sister Elizabeth is booked for an eastern college next year. Their father is much of the time in Manila, looking after sugar plantation interests. Mary Carter, my sister, is in San Francisco, and Oliver and Gussie in the old home in the Nuuanu Valley. Cushman died of tuberculosis a year ago, in the Sierra Madre Mountains of California, where he went in the spring of I916 in search of health. For a time the mountain air seemed to be working marvels in his case. With aloha to you all, CHARLOTTE A. CARTER. ADDENDA ADDENDA RECORDS OF VACCINATIONS KEPT DURING TRIPS AROUND ISLAND OF OAHU, JANUARY 3 To 21, 188 1, By L. VERNON BRIGGS, DEPUTY VACCINATION OFFICER. 63 IN WAIMANALO AT CUMMINGS Di~ te 1881 Jan. 3 '4 4' '4 4' '4 Sex ~ Name IAge TResidence Parent M F F.F M M F M M II M M F F F M M F M F M M F M F F F F J. Cummins Kini Pali Loke Moke Kalua Laa Kapuahi Poni Iokepa Napahuelua. Kamauna Pui Pe Kamaka. Maholowaa Kale Kaliko Kepaa Kapahu Kaloaaole Maka Kaulukou Naki Honuahau Paahao Ana Kealoha 52 20 18 6 3 2 10 11 37 25 20 20 28 30 7 2 7 7 9 19 7 7 14 1 1 Waimanalo it 4 1 1 ( 4 4 I I I I ts 4 C I ( 9 I t i I & I i 4 A 4 4 4 4 4 d I I 4 9 4 A C ( 4 i I A A & 4 & I I 9 I White Naua Kahaleua Kawiki Pilipo Nawawae Kahaina Waialiale Napaliueli Kamauna Pui Pe Kanaka Waholowae Paikea Kaliko Kepaa Kaulile Palu Maka Paana Mahala Kaoulihui Nakoo 225 226 ADDENDA Da te Sex Name - Age)I Residence f Parent 1881 Jan. 4 id id it is 4 6 I 19 i: I A i S S 4 4 1 i: I i: I f S a S 4 4 I 4 i & 4 S 4 1 S 4 A I 4 I a 4 F M F M F F F M F M M F M M F M F F F F F F F F F F F M F F F F F F F Pahuulaula James Basil Tima Pakaiti Makolo Taluko Pokulu Tautao, Tiakia Tom Tuatua Titouta Taputa Tikuai Teouli R. P. Jose Flora May Maria Abby Hattie Maria Tike Clara Gurney Tolen Tipea Tauia Kuca Pahu Toranti Kanalule Tewaki Teouy Tiuteu Mokalo 40 63 7 8 7 6 8 8 33 41 3 30 8 8 22 27 1 6 3 2 24 18 15 4 16 38 42 5 6 25 Waimanalo 4 S 4 6 4 4 4 4 4 6 S 4 9 S S 4 4 A 4 S A A i 4 I A I 4 I 9 I 6 4 i 4 S 4 It I 4 4 4 4 4 4 1 4 S i i I 4 4 S a I # 4. I A A I 4 d A I 4 A Pahuulaula White Lelewa Spaniard Cummings R. P. Jose S. S. Islander White S. S. Islander Koaho Muhominui S. S. Islander 22 IN KAILUA, SCHOOLHOUSE Jan. 4 M Kekauikana 4 Kailua Luukia it F Waianuenue 5 "i Keoni de F Kulia 6 " Opai is F Mailo, 13 as Luukia F Malia 12 "6 Kaoni 44 F Kaaihue 6 adI do F Haae 7 " ADDENDA27 227 Date I Sx Name Age IResidence I Parent 1881 Jan. 4 di 44 44 id id id ad 41 &I 64 4 4 A A 4 4 i 4 F F F F M M F F M M M F F M F Lilia Kalei Malaea Kalei Ku Kalua Heneliaku Ana Hinai Kaijo Kake Ekekela Meliana Kahiaa Laukia 6 8 7 8 10 12 5 5 13 9 2 11 5 4 2 Kailua 9 4 4i i6 44 4A 4I 9 i 4 I i I 6 A 4 9 6 4 Hikaulini Eiihawaa Kealohi Kaananu Kekapu Mahoe i' Kipikina Mawelu ILaulani 63 IN KANEOHE, COURT HOUSE Jan. 4 of 4 4 d I 4 a 4 4 64 It 4 i d Ot 4 It 6 6 0 i 8 6 4 4 9 I a 4 d 4 4 4 I 4 4 4 i i a 4 A 4 4 4 F M M M M F M M F F M M M M IF M F M F F F M F Kulia Kekeni Loke Palaki Awa Akui Aona Keoni Moke Kahuwo Kalekone Halalo Malia Lifia Kawelo Akawai Kamiela Anina Awe Moke Hooni Albert W. Kealoakele Kahapalua Haliaka Kuakahalei Hahaka 5 3 5 11 8 6 3 2 4 6 6 14 6 5 4 7 1 5 8 5 12 8 13 5 9 Kaneohe it 4 4 4 It 4 a 4 4 S A & 4 4 I 4 A 4 4 1 9 i f 4 6 4 4 A 4 A A I I i d d 4 A 4 1 4 A 6 I a 4 ( 6 4 4 I Paki Kaue Mi Aleu Paahau Nua Maule Pihoihoi Lelewa Opunui Keola Kaihuou Kealulaina Makaea Kaue IKekuni Kahula Kaailua Pita Alo Kaihuiai I I 228 AlDDENDA Da te -Sex Name Age Residence Parent 1881 Jan. 4 F Annie 6 Kaneohe Makaiko It F Lokulia 4 "Malia is M Kahapo 3 " Kelou 44 M Addic 5 "Deniat 44 F Hanopeu 9 is M Kaimi 1 14 F Punikala 1I Punikala 44 M Kahueldlfi 5 " Pahu Ad M Kahakuihaj 4 " Kunula is M S. Watson 2 " Watson as M I. Watson 8 14 M B. Watson 9 " F Naai 8 " Papa F Keauiokalani 7 " Muliwae M Kakalia 2 " Kanunae F Enalaina 3 " Alapai F Ester 14 " Kanana M Kamela 5 " Kipi M Niakala 8 6 M Kikuwi 12 " Laia M Edmand 1 " Alapae F Kikaha 6 " Wongfat F Kuipo 4 9 F Malaea, 2 " Kahoukai M Kewaliko 7 " Kahao F Kiniakua 4 " Kaluni " F Keo Fay Silver F Meliana. 2 I M Moke 1I Kolonu F Manaole 5 " Napehi F Kuliana 6 " Kahaunui M Nakeu 1I Haleuu M Kaahanui 9 F Apola M Makala. 8 " Keawe ___F Anna 6 " Oliva 44 IN CATHOLIC SCHOOL IN HEETA Jan. 4 M Paul 6 Heeia Kea Is M Keahi 6 Al Kahahua Id M Kaaihue 6 " Kauluilhai Ss M John 12 "9 Kaikau _____ M Kanoho 11 is Kanoho AD ---DENDA 229 Date sex Name Age I Residence Parent 1881 Jan. 4 44 di Is is id i 4 4 i I 9 4 4 6 I I 4 i 9 9 I 4 4 i I 4 i i A d A 9 I i I 4 4 9 9 4 4 1 4 9 4 I i 4 4 i I i 4 4 4 4 I I 4 I 9 4 4 a 4 4 4 4 t I d M M M M M M.M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M F F F F F F F F F M F F F F F M Pahau Ku Hamaiku Kiko Peni Kahikikolo Kopi Monona Charley Mahua Kahanooi Ahoi Naki Kapanana Kahaka Hapauni Keoho Pomaika Tomeo Kaikalu Mahiai Kaui Keoni Kahinu Ukina Rose. Lilia Walanika Kalanaakini Ana Kalawa I Kalani Kaluu Kahulupuni Lilia Koi Hanaloa Ujiama 10 12 7 12 10 12 6 15 12 15 13 7 6 13i 12 12, 8 5 4 5 11 10 7 7 8 10 14 1 1 3 6 7 6 Heeia 49 $I 4 4 4 I I i 4 i 4 I 9 9 I I I 4 I I I i 4 i 4 4 9 9 4 1 4 4 I 4 I I 9 4 6 9 9 4 4 i 4 I 9 4 9 9 4 4 i I i 4 I I 9 4 I I I 4 I 6 i ( I 9 I d 9 I Pahau Umiuni Awa Kiko Ikaia Kaai Nakeau Mohokule Silver M~ahua Holonulae Atongua NAki Holowala Konai Wakiaho Keoho 4' Silver Kekai Kaolala Laki Kaoo Kahuwa Kahile Silver John Kepio Silver Kaluwaniau Holowale Kaluwaniau Meloa Kahana Moeloa Kea~hi Unini Kuamoo 76 IN HEEIA, McKEAGUE'S PLANTATION Jan. 4 F Kalaau 1 Heeia Awa A M Kapunale 3 is Kale id F Uiliana 5 "i Kuamoo 230 ADDENDA Da te Sex Name A,5 Residence Parent 1881 Jan. 4 F Akaneki 5 Heeia Puiaiki F Luika 3 " Kealii " F Luka 5 " F Akaka 6 " Mainene " F Poepoe 5 " Touna F TIakalau 9 " Lanau M Wili 10 " Puaiki F Kaonako 40 " Lelewa F Lao 13 d F Tinaneta 1 "s Tewenako F Laokapo 39 A" Lelewa M Takileiki 41 a '' F Tate 30 idi F Tewenako 20 A A M Oniman 1I Tona F Tona 25 i M Baba 50 it F Litikila 30 A AA M Tuo 30 " Tilo F Tikiamelu 20 is. F Unaka 20 "4 4 As M Tukiapa 25 " Tukiapa 94 F Tauati 30 " Tauati is F Tauake 50 " Tauake F Tepukea 50 " Tepukea F Temele 43 Temelo F Kakiana 42 " Kakiana F Kapupe 30 " Kapupe F Tamane 28 " Tarmane F Takuku 38 " Taruru M Teoni 26 " Teani 46 M Taawawa 12 " Tauana di M Keoki 21 " Keoki is M Kakalia 6 " Tapaloa 61 M Tenou 30 " Tenoa M Tepau 30 A Tepau M Tinoa 25 is Tinoa F Tapulena 30 "d Tapulena St M Tekake 40 "4 Tekake M Tawa 45 " Tawa M Naoi 15s Naoi M Piakala 18 " Piakali A M Kaitelaki 38 " Kaitelaki " M Aietela 28 " Aietela A__DDENDA 231 Date ISex I Name _____Age _Residence IJ - Parent 1881 Jan. 4 M Taua 30 Heeia Taua M Tealirnan 42 "s Tealiman it F Holoia 20 di Holoia di M Tenali 25 "s Tenali di M Tapulua 28 " Irapulua M Huihihula 7 " Hinaualo M Tito 15 4 M Nokula 16 A " M Monaela 22 "s " M Mataualo 26 "6 M Takalo 18 M Lipialo 20 M Tapokao 23 M Tenakonou 25 M Teuaki 35 M Tikale 40 " Lelevwa F Kunikui 24 i A: M Nalike 29 " do F Ualie 14 " is M Takintakoka 30 " di M Lakunoua 30 " 40Take a " M Tapupa 23 A" F Tailoamuhokui 31 is F Tauna 50 is F Taweki 60 F Talulu 40 " F ~Tauake 50 " F I Lamane 25 " 31 IN AAHUIMANU,) WAITE'S PLANTATION Jan. 5 F Fatuo- 6 Aahuimanu Kilauea is F Mele 25 "Popo is F Popo 28 " M Tom 29 M Palokea 30 M Tanaelipa 26 "S. S. Islander or Lelewa M Tuhao 25 " M Leliana 26 " A: M Tewalui 15 " AA M Tewkopotu 18 " is M Tapui 19 " 232 ADDENDA Date Sex Name Agel Residence Parent Dat re n 1881 Jan. 5 i( '4 it 4s A....#. _6 M M F F F M M M F M F F M F F F F M F F Towinu Johny Polomauea Tanakau Maneku Tuekoi Kilauea Kuelia Kaliua Elaki Kopule Tekota Johny Tea Tikobene Tilanoluki Tibaipule Tukiki Teme Paita 21 20 22 21 25 28 30 6 22 18 10 35 6 35 15 28 28 10 18 23 Aahuimanu i( 4 II i( (... Lelewa (4 d' is As is a' 4 A4 44 4 44 64 4( S. S. Islander...~ ~s.. 8 IN KAHALUU, CHINESE PLANTATION Jan. 5 M James 1 Kahaluu R. C. F Alice1.. Stewart F Kitty1 "1 J. Stewart ' M David 4. M M Albert 2 I" T. Lloyd M James 7 F May 8. d 37 IN KAHALULU, SCHOOLHOUSE Jan. 5 F Kahaliniku 1 Kahalulu Kaui. F Pookupu 4 " Haole F Kanakaole 5 " Kia M Kuailani 10.. F Leleauna 11 "i " F Kamalu11.. Haole M Mailokini 6 t Akana " M Hoomana 9. M Kalei 3 F Kutakila 8. Keaonui F Haonui 7. Maalea F Paahana 4. Uilanake,, ADDENDA 233 Date ISex I Name 1AgeTI Residence I Parent 1881 Jan. 5 it it 44 44 14 4I A A A1 41 9I II 44 A4 44 I4 II II AI 46 S6 4 6 4 S 4 I I I F F F F F M F M F F F M M M M F F F M Kekela Kahele Amamalia Kamnaka Pohue Kalaehuo Kaaoaolo Oliwa Kohale Kainiola Amalu Kahea Kanalu John Haleakala Ailaau IKala Kalaupua Akatiela Peke Hakoilani Wahinehole Malie Kalahiki Keo _ 1 7 10 12 3 9 5 8 9 9 1 3 5 2 3 4 1 5 4 4 Kahalulu di Is is is is is is 44 4 A 9 9 4 4 di A I I i II 4 A 4 6 4 A 4 9 I S 4 A I I 1 4 a 4 I Ujianake John S. Akani Nakeulao Kalaihuo Manueo Kahiane Haupeo Ailana Kahianei Ujiame Kealohi John Hukao Kainuai Nalipui Kaai Marnua Kanipae Lualii Kenoi Kanakau I 26 IN WAIKANE, NATIVE HOUSE Jan. is it di S S it it St di 4 6 S 1 4 S 4 I A S i S 4 4 4 6 5 F F M M F M F F M F M M F M F Kepani Palae Kaupe, Kailaa Kahaliluau Maiholani Hana Pilahi Leialoha Haliaka Kalani Iwa Kakalia James Cullen Ann Cullen Sylvester Kuke 12 8 6 5 10 10 4 11 7 8 1 4 3 5 3 2 4 Waikane it is is is is 4 6 Its is 96 61 14 it is is 41. As Kealiikuha Hulei Kaluki Kailua Kaili Puka, Luukea Kaleimamah u Pilahi Papau Kawika Kanea Cullen Mary Aikue 234 ADDENWDA Date Sex Name Age Residence Parent 1881 Jan. 5 F Emily 4 Waikane Aikue A F Kaona 5 " Aaikue is F Hanaiui 12 it Haole de M Kamaka 5 As Kaohaoahi IC F Nawahine 7 di Kaukiokua M Kaopua 5 SC Kaiuikuamnoo M Lui 8 "4 Kaluaikai M Mania 8 "e Haaheo M Ailaina, 3 is Kaiwikuamoo 19 IN KUALOA, NATIVE HOUSE AND HAKIPUU, SCHOOLHOUSE Jan. 5 it 96 Is is di is 66 44 44 S 4 6 I S S S S S I I I A I A I S S M M IM IM F M M M M M F F M M M M M F F Nakaieka Kealoha Kane Kua Apikaila, Tekena Tema Lelipu Keoni Keoni Tekatu Ikaika Kahanu Naiwieha Kalehu Kalani Elia Kawahi Waha 2 3 4 3 5 24 28 25 8 9 25 6 7 7 5 4 5 2 5 Hakipuu di 4 A 4 9 di 4 9 6 6 4 I & I I I I 4 Kualoa 9 4 4 4 4 6 4 & 6 6 9 9 d I Mui Loane Mui Aikuo S. S. Islander Kale Kaai S. S. Islander Kaaiahua Haaloa Kuewa MU01o Kewa, Laumania Keaka Haalou IN DISTRICT OF KOOLAUPOKO 329 examined; 220 taken; 109 revaccinated; 82 new vaccinations. 7 IN KAAAWA, NATIVE HOUSE Jan. 5 F Koiahi 1 Kaaawa Hianola, id F Malaea 5 IMalolo 64 F Malie 6 1 44 F Lilia 11 i 44 M Kawika 61 Keau is F Liikapeka 5 jNakulihulu M Kahanui 7 __ __ _ __1___id ____ ADDENDA 235 12 IN KAHANA CHURCH, MORMON Date Sex Name Age Residence Parent 1881 Jan. 5 F Kaahami 8 Kahana Pokaatu di M Kuopa 9 Is Apilki to F Lahela 8 " Kahae At F Ane 12 it F Helukaina 2 it F Keoki 4 " Okakuu F Ulia 8 " Ninano M Kululani 3 F Kolika 4 " Kila F Malie 6 " Hau F Kauhane 13 " Kila Jan. 6 F Hale 6 " Ohule 33 IN KAHANA, MORMON CHURCH Jan. 6 F Emily 3 Kahana Kolanaoa 44 M Kaluna 4 it Makai id F Keomano 4 " Pauokola M Keoki 4 " Oliwao M Pohelani 7 " Kekaloa M Keokalani 7 " Kekiolani M Hahoekala 6 " Kelowana M Alanatai 3 " Amukoi M Emalia 4 It Keokanui M Keoki 7 As Mokamau F Koma 3 is Palaile F Kealohi 6 6 F Kuhna 8 F Koeleele 10 " F Kamaha 4~ " Kahimoe M Kamano 3 ' Kahuala M Poi 4 " Poi M Kawika 4 " Lehao F Kaowaka 3 " Kauoaniau M Kamela 5 4" Nuhi F Naone 12 di Poi M Aukai 7 "4 Mahae F Haliaka 6 "4 Makani F Kulia 10 " Auhau F Kalehua 2 " Keoni M Hawe 6 '11 Ohule M Kahina 5 "4 Oliwa M Wahineauawa 1 1 id Keoni 236 A1DD)ENDA Da te ~Sex Name Age Residence Parent 1881 Jan. 6 M Kamnuela 11 Kahana Mahoe F Aiakiana. 2 1," Amnuhao M Hookano 12 di Nahoi M Nakanui 1I Ulianu " F Ana 6 " Paulo '31 IN PUNALUU IN SCHOOLHOUSE Jan. 6 0i 4 i i I I I A 4 i i 4 9 A I A A 4 I 4 A A I I I 6 I 6: I I i & A I I 4 6 i I i i 6 t Jan. 5 6 S I I IF F M M M M F M M M M F F F F IF M F M M M F F M Lahapa Nalie Kawika Kanai Puhi Nalakiali Naiwi Ukeke Laliiloa Kawika Kuilai Kaawehau Kaanana, Hohe Kaehukona Malie Kauohilo Lipine Penake Loane Wile Kaahanui Nalie Luukia Kamnuela Akihung lasang Hunathini Muone Miuaau Tiwoho Z2 3 4 8 5 3 3 8 11 7 2 8 8! 8 4 9 2 10 1 2 11 5 5 3 5 2 1 3 1 Punaluu 44 4' 4' 4i 4 4 44 448 44I 44& 4'i 448 4'I Kealuhilue Aalona Nahuka Nakalu Elia Kupukinu Kauka Hoomana, Nahalo Kaapae Nahalo Hale Keaonui Kaehukana Kaimahu Kukona Nahalo Nakikoa Kapai Aalona Kau Kaaea Aaalou Kauka Apai Apana Aiano Akuiko I 8 IN KALUANUI IN NATIVE HOUSE Jan. 6 M Tokepa 2 Nakao Kawohiko is M Kealoha 8 As I Keawekane is F Kulia 12 "9 Kauohilo F Hoopii 5 " Kalona___ ADDENDA 237 1881 Jan. 6 M Kalapa 7 Nakao Kaholaha " M Ioane 6 " Pamawaho F Makalika 5 F Nalie 2 8 IN HAUULA IN NATIVE HOUSE Jan. 6 F Kuleka 1 - Hauula Kaanauna " F Kawai 10 " Haole " F Ana 9 " Makanui " F Wahinelili 8 F Loika 2 " Maluae " M Hua 3. F Neki 6 " Albart __ F Palola 3 " Mele 15 IN LAIE MALOO IN NATIVE HOUSE Jan. 6 F Ane 8 Laie Maloo Waikolua " M Kiipau 3 " Kupau " F Kikilia 2 " Kahue " F Hamalalau 1 " Kaui " F Ana 1 " Kanana " M Hookano 5 " Palule F Kahaulilio 2 " Waa " M Pahumoa 2 " Makeaina " F Meleana 4 F Peahi 8. " F Kamakapu 6. M Moke 3 " Kupuahilani M Aikaula 6 Holokai F Paakai 5 " Nahinelua F Kaupena2 " 58 IN LAIE WAI, AT MR. CLOUGH'S HOUSE Jan. 6 M Henry Roye 1 Laie Wai J. H. Dean F Helen Cora 2 " W. Alexander M Arthur C. 2 " Carl Anderson M W. P. Alexander 29 " H. M. Alexander F Lucy 3 " J. H. Dean M Oiakia 5 " Kahile " M Kahili 6 " Marian " M okepa 8 " Kakuku F Kuhananu 7 Kailiolona F Kealuineola 4 Kii M Kinohou 3 Kahunu 238 A.XD-DENDA Da te Sx Name Age I Residence iParent 1881 Jan. 6 F Keo 4 Laie Wai Kaiu " F Kalani 2 isi " F Peke 5 "6 Makaaiu F Malaea 4 "4 Keani F Moeikuahuoe 3 "4 Waipua, F Kealiiolono 5 is Kii F Hookano 3 "4 Karnanoha M Kimono 1 I Kahua F Kalei 3 "4 Nehemia F Naoni 7 "4 Kealukuli F Kaluna. 4 "9 Pakaka, F Makalike 3 id Mahu M Kamuela 11 is Kakauoha F Kalaiku 5 Is Makanui M Aumakuu, 9 "9 Kaio M Naihe 11 di Mokaulu M Kenoa, 4 di Kealukuo, F Iwa 3 Is Alapaki M Keoki 7 id Kawoha, M Molina 2 id Kekawoha M Kailikea 2 "9 Naukaaho M Kepa 2 "9 Kahawai F Laea 4 "Kalili F Manu 7 " Mukaala, M Ane 1I Apua, M Keakua 5 " Puahao M Kuakaha 5 " Kalili F Lucy 1 " Kamuel M Likeke 11 "Kalili F Kapu 12 " Kawaipua F Kaloi 8 " Hawele M Amaka 13 " Kaio M Lekonao 12 "Kalili F Hama 4 " Powoo F Pahukoa 11 "Luukia, F Lahela 6 " Kakino M Kaihe 9 " Kaihe F Kauhapa 9 1 M Kome 3 " Luukia F Keololani 7 "Nainoa M Kainapau 8 " Keawe M Kamauha 5 4 F Namane 3 " Keamauhili F Ana it Haaheo ADDENDA 239 Date Sex Name Age Residence Parent 1881 Jan. 6 M Makuiki 5 Laie Wai Makuiki F Halty 3.. i M Waa 5 " Kaihe 14 IN KAHUKU, BUCHANAN'S HOUSE Jan. 7 F Irame 3 Kahuku Buchanan M Eleakale 8 "( Ululani " M Kuno 7 " Kale A M Pikai 2 " Ululani M Kawika 7 " Kamauo F Leiahoha 3 " Kaina. M Kale!1 " Kamauana F Lauikawai 1 " Kekapa F Kaelule 2 " Kamanana M Noke 8 " Kealikui M Kaina 6 " Kaina M Ana 11 " A F Kaaunoa 9 ( Lokai F Kamaku 7 " Kiwi 6 IN WAIALEE IN NATIVE HOUSE Jan. 7 F Wahinelili 10 Waialee Kanakoa " M Kauanui 9 " Kealuhauale F Laula 6 i" Kawali 1 F Luukia 2." Kealuhauole M Pelokane 4 " Aana M Kaniela 12 " Pahu 19 IN WAIMEA IN NATIVE HOUSE Jan. 7 M Kiaaima 8 Waimea John M Kualii 6 " Nakaiewalu F Kapeka 7 " Kanaloa M Kanaloa 6 "( Kanaloanui M Maiau 10 " Kahale Pauole F Kealaula 8 "( Maiolaloa M Pauhiwa 2 "( Kowaloa M Apokalani 2 " Apokalaui F Lukapeka 1... M Kahakuepa 5 " Malo M Naauao 5 " Lalahili ( M Tokia 8 " Naukana M Malao 7 "( Halepauale F Nune 6. F Hana 11 " Naukana 240 ADDENDA Date Sex Name Age Residence Parent 1881 Jan. 7 F Koonohiula 3 Waimea Halepaueli. F Kauki 2 is Lemanui F Kawao 2 " I F Narua 4 " Manuel Seustel IN DISTRICT OF KOOLAULOA 160 vaccinated; 68 taken; 92 revaccinated; 14 new vaccinations. EWA & WAIANAE 17 IN MAKUA IN NATIVE HOUSE Jan. 8 41 41 4I i4 I4 4I 4..........a..I M M M M M M M F F F F M F M F F M Kaia Maui Kamoku Nonohiwa Kuhia Kane Kanoho Hilahila Hawea Kahakuloi Lilia Namea Lulia Keiwihakulani Malaea Maleawa Kauahi 6 4 6 6 5 5 7 4 7 11 2 1 1 11 1 2 11 Makua 11 1( it it It i1.1.1 A4 I4 I4 44............ Kealoha Kamakea Keakua Namea Keahua Ulili Kamakea Namea Kealoha Halov ilu Kamakea I-elanihi Naiwi Nailieha Naiwi Kawala 7 IN HIKILOLO IN NATIVE HOUSE Jan. 8 F Maunalei 7 Hikilolo Pekelo M Pekelo 6.. " F Lahalaha 10 1 Pauli M Koopua 6. M Kalawaia 9. 1 F Kalakapu 4 1 Keoni. F Kuki 13 " Lauao Kaaea 4 IN NAKEAU IN NATIVE HOUSE Jan. 8 F Punanalua 7 Nakeau Ipo. M Kaipo 5 4 Kamalii. M Kaehuokalui 1 ( Kauahi. F Kekahuna 5 " Ipo AD)DENDA 241 7 IN KAMAILE IN NATIVE HOUSE Date Sex Name Age Residence Parent 1881 Jan. 8 M Pule 4 Kamaile Keuloho F Hanai 3 " Hopu " F Kanani 6 " Pahu M Makalu 4 " Kauahi F Keola 10 " Puahiohio M Napahuelua 13 " Kamaka M Kamaka 50 " Koo 88 IN WAIANAE IN POST OFFICE Jan. 8 M Teaua 60 Waianae S. S. Islander M Talua 50 M Teulelemoo 30... MTugegekoo 35. M Keola 45 M Tekapu 30 " M Timbanuti 30. F Tewao 30 M Richardson White " F Tania 20 S. S. Islander " F Nittike 30. " F Netowit 25. F Leolo 30 F Popo 30 F Fepa 25 F Moetila 23. M Telikai 38. M Tepulailuo 48. M Tikinyo opo 5. F Litata 20 F Temalaki 28. F Lilana 22. M Kawai 6 ( ( F Keliti 25. F Tekaiko 28. F Tete 30 F Tauia 8 F Tenalaki 6. M Tiale 28. M Naolo 38 M Waiawa 36 " M Tito 32 ( M Tilaialua 28. 242 ADDENDA Date 1881 Jan. 8 &I 44 di is id id 46 is is 49 it is 4 It I 6 A 4 9 19 6 A I 4 4 4 S a I S 4 11 A S I I A S 4 4 4 4 S a 4 6 I A 4 I I 4 A 4 A I A I 6 S I A Sex Name Age I Residence Parent M M M M M M M MI M F M M M M M F F F F F F F M M M F M F M M F M M M Kahoolailui Kuniela Kaoliko Por-naikui Kaimiola Kekahuna Kaniela Opilopio Atamu Alana. Pale Lapaku Aheakalaa, Kui Kahehiki Kaupo Kalanimania Kawahine Kanani Aukake Uepa Kaliko Ujiama, Kalawaia Kahuakai Manaole Ninanino Laa, Kalanikahua Mikeliela Akona Luka Kailieha Napualala, Tinabisli Tikibaoa Tinlupikoa Kaheli Annie Ester Lidie Kapela Ielaitakoe Aalona 6 8 12 6 5 41 40 43 5 3 3 6 12 6 30 2 4 6 8 16 12 10 7 6 8 5 4 6 3 1 5 6 1 28 30 32 7 12 11 2 28 7 8 11 Waianae id 49 AI I1 44 AI 4I A4 IA 4I 41 4I AI 4 I 6 I A A AA IA A4 4I II 44 44 I 4 4 6 46 II 9I aI 4I I 4 4 I 9A A4 46 aI I6 40 4 6 a S A 8 Maluneo Kekahuna Lakopo Naoho Damela Kawaaiwi Taahee Pekelo Kaui Naoho Kooliko Noa Keau Poe Leleo Kaiji Poe Keoki Kaapinu Kaupuki Pukatu Kahea. Pukatu Asee Kalieha S. S. Islander Muno E. B Apedreu Kahuu Aalona ADDENDA 243 Date Sex Name Age Residence Parent 1881 Jan. 8 F Nohoanu 9 Waianae Aalona. F Mele 6 " Puholua. F Taraba 6 " S. S. Islander " F Kuaua 7 " M Tentaikoe ( S. S. Islander " M Johnnie 4 ( Manuel " F Julia 2... " F Ivie 4 ( Mr. Richardson M. M George 1... " M Apela 6 ( Ohao.. M Ili 5 " John Kupua 1 IN NANAKULI IN NATIVE HOUSE Jan. 8 F Kealiiolono Nanakuli Keoholaena 13 IN HONOULIULI IN NATIVE HOUSE Jan. 9 M Kalani 9 Honouliuli Kapahau M Opiopio 8 Luakaha F Kekela 4 " Kalau F Luika 1 " Kapahuu " M Kawahahunui 5 " Kaehuakalani " M Kaehuokalani 3 I " F Lepeka5 " Makai " Kaapuni 12 " Kahakai M Hinaa 7 " M Peko 10 Makai M Pepe 11 ( Keoni M Kuailiahi 1 " Kahakai "_ M Nama 11 " Makai 13 IN WAIKELE IN NATIVE HOUSE Jan. 9 M Paikamakoni 6 Waikele Leleanua F Kilikina 4 " Kaili F Alapai 15 Kapieuu F Lokina 4.. F Lilia 2 Kekaina M Halauaola 13 " Kuni F Mele 4 Leleauna M Iokua 9 " Lahela F Akiu 1 Akiao ' F Pilahi 6 " Keoni Kaaiahua. M Manoanoa 7 Keoni F Kauila 1 Hopu M Kuhia 9., 244 ADDENDA 11 IN WAIPIO IN NATIVE HOUSE Date Sex Name Age Residence Parent 1881 Jan. 9 F Kealakaa 2 Waipio Kanahele M Kaui 12 " Kauhaahaa " F Kanuha 2 " Napeewalu M Keawe 5 " Kamuela " F Kalua 7 " Aneane " F Pohukaina 5 " Makaula " M Mokapu 5 " Kiwaha F Keluia 3 " Kahikimoa " M aka 2 " Mahi F Ema 9 M Naheana 12 9 IN WAIAWI IN NATIVE HOUSE Jan. 9 M Kaleimano 3 Waiawi Hoomana " M Oapea 3 " Kaonohi. F Lakana 11 " Apa F Ester 1 " Kimokeo M Samuel 8.. M Wiluana 5. " F Carray1." Ioane M Kahakumaka 4 Ulelu M Uilama 3 __ Keoki 8 IN MANANA IN NATIVE HOUSE Jan. 9 F Kahili Kapuoloni 12 Manana J. H. Kaanaana F Pekelo 5 " Pika " F Malie2 " Anton Manuel M John 4 " M Henry 2 F Amoe 8 " Akana M Charley 1 " Keone M Keoki 1I Ane 1 IN WAIAU IN NATIVE HOUSE Jan.9 F Kalama 2 Waiau Mokuahi 3 IN WAIMALU IN NATIVE HOUSE Jan. 9 F Simoe 6 Waimalu Akina " M Lokoi 2 Asau M Inkui 4... ADDENDA 245 4 IN KALAUAO IN NATIVE HOUSE Date Sex Name Age Residence Parent 1881 Jan. 9 F Lieley 5 Kalauao Akeoni F Aowa 2 j i M Okelo 2 " John Willoms M Willie 6 __ Chapman 1 IN AIEA IN NATIVE HOUSE Jan. 9 F Hoomana 2 Aiea Akina 2 IN HALAWA IN NATIVE HOUSE Jan.9 M Kahele 7 Halawa Napuelua M Naea 6.i.. 151 vaccinated; 59 taken; 92 revaccinated; 27 new vaccinations. 47 IN MOANALUA IN NATIVE HOUSE Jan. 10 F Kalia 5 Moanalua Kanewahine M Kewiki 7 Kahawaii F Ulika 5 Pau F Kaleiakanioku 2 Kahoohuli F Malie 1 Pau F Maka 3 Puahi ( M Akoni 3 Kanakaole M Kamakahonu 2 Heihei M Hailania 6 Ainoa M Kalaoa 3 Polapola M Lewi 3 Kahoohaili F Lili 2 Kamuau M Heihei 5 Heihei F Kakolika 6 Kainapau "F Naluahi 11 Kanapaole F Peka 4 Konikauai M Keuminanuao 2. Pomaikai " F Keopuhia 6 Kekipi M Ki 8 Kumekua F Wailua 7 Peni F Kamaka 5 Kamekua F Anakoma 6 Kanakaole M Kaili 9 Kamehua M Ioane 6 Nuoli F Hana 12 Hoohuli F Haliaka 1 Pau 246 AkXD"DENDA Date ISexI Name Age I Residence Parent 1881. Jan. 10 1 f 4 & 9 4 d d I A 4 4 ( I A I 4 4 4 & It I I t I 1 4 M F M F M F F F M F M F F F M F F F F M M Kilinahe Komoku Kamoho Nohoanu,Kainapau Ilihi Kane Hookano Alaina Keinoa Kookoo loana Kaaianuku Kalake Pilipi Leealohe Liikapeka Kawaa Kainiiola Piipiilani Aneki 5 6 7 9 2 8 6 4 4 6 8 3 4 8 11 2 6 1 4 5 Moanalua 4 i i I 4 4 4 4 4 4 i I 4 6 4 6 4 8 4 4 4 i I A 4 4 4 A A 1 4 6 4 i 4 i a 4 4 4 Puahe Nohoma Pahi Kainapau Keoni Kekipi Kaiwa Keo Polapola Palaka Paakaula Kaluah ine Palaka Paakaula Palaka Moke Kiko Piipiilani 7 IN KALIHI IN NATIVE HOUSE Jan.10 M Kaw4iapo 6 Kalihi Walu "4 F Poipea 4 K healukakaole F hula 6 " Iiiowa F Kahikina 3 " Kinaeou M Kealaula 1 " Iliona F Kukana 5 Moolihua M Keo 2 ooiua ADDENDA 247 To His Excellency, President of the Board of Health. Agreeable to your instructions, I started on Monday last, the 3rd instant to make a tour of the Island of Oahu, for the purpose of vaccinating those persons who were not protected from Small Pox, and I now have the honot to report that I have vaccinated as follows: In the District of Koolaupoko:Males under 15 years of age................ 135 Females under 15 years of age....................... 124 Males over 15 years of age.......................... 51 Females over 15 years of age....................... 45 355 In the District of Koolauloa:Males under 15 years of age.................... 99 Females under 15 years of age..................... 109 Males over 15 years of age.......................... 1 209 In the District of Ewa and Waianae:Males under 15 years of age........................ 78 Females under 15 years of age....................... 69 Males over 15 years of age...................... 23 Females over 15 years of age....................... 14 184 In the District of Honolulu:Males under 15 years of age........................ 22 Females under 15 years of age...................... 31 53 Altogether I have vaccinated 801 persons of which about 24 were white and 160 were South Sea Islanders and a few Chinese children. In accordance with further instructions, I shall start again tomorrow to go over the same route, in order to ascertain what proportion of those vaccinated have taken and to revaccinate if necessary. I remain very respectfully yours, L. VERNON BRIGGS, Deputy Vaccinating Officer for the Island of Oahu. Honolulu, Jan. 11, 1881. 248 ADDENDA SECOND TRIP 82 IN DISTRICT OF KOOLAUPOKO Date I Sex I Name ~e I Residence I Parent 1881 J - - Jan. 12 M Kuewa 5 Wairnanalo Kaahanui It F Loke 1I Kane M Tabana 45 " S. S. Islander M Tabu 39 M Loige 40 M Tekapu 3 5 M Tebob 30 M Kaniwoa 28 M Tilua 25 M Ueeia 3 5 Jan.13 M Kaaukai 2 Kailua Kaula F Elena 4 " Enia F Honipaoa 5 " Wahinelili:1 F Kawai I " Halaulani F Kaliko 5 " Kaula M Naopala 6 " Kaoni M Puuku 6 " Kealoha M Manuela 4 " Halaulaui M David I " Wahinelili F Kalua 2 " Ake M Punikanjilj 9 " Naholoaa M Kealoha 20 " Kalili F Keia Is " Palau M Keanoano 1I a Haiauau M Houpo I " Ale M Kekuku 4 " Keala F Kalakuahau 2 Kaneohe Kamai M Kalakoa 7 " Apiki " M Palo 5 " Karnai " F Mahinu 6 " Emily " M Hinawali 2 aid, M Kamauna 2 " Haliaka M Kamaunu 5 " Kapuhili M Kane 6 " F Hamea, 3 " Kekulu M Naihe 1I Kaailau M Joseph 11I Silver F Maikoni 7 aa Kauahine ADDENDA 249 Date I e Name j~eIResidence L Parent 1881 Jan.13 4 4 A A i a I 9 S S 4 I 4 4 419 4 4 i 4 4 4 4 S 4 I 4 I a I S I I & S 6 4 f S S S I 8 4 i i jan.14 di 94 Is di a 6, A I I I jan.15 i i I 4 4 S I i A 4 4 S 4 6 4 i i I — F F M F F F F F M F M F M M F M F M F M F F M F F M M F M M M M M F F Hahaka Amer Kohukaiahini Halaaniani Kalua Pakekepa Hana Kelakela Kawaihoa Naai Keo Ualeka John Kualaau Nakapepa Kamaka Kalekia Uakakehua Kaleilehua Kaonohi Peuea Take Tongeu, Tewua Tekulena Uainaua Tamaiana Malaea Puhihale William Charley Paul Lui Haliaka Hanale Nehemia Hoino Kupuna Kaili Kekuewa Lichbato Meahali Kini Poe Hoopii I I i I 2 18 1 15 5 4 5 5 8 7 9 i2 12 6 10 5 25 41 28 50 140 30 28 6 5 14 11 6 6 34 10 1 3 5 I 3 I Kaneohe Heeia, Aahuimanu, Kahaluu. Maikane Hakeputi I Emalia. Silver Watson Loke Halaamani Kalua Keawe Kaauanoi Kelonuiki Kuliwai Keawe Parry Manu, Ane Keai Kaukaiole Kaukala, Pihanui Keonimana miana S. S. Islander Kuouli Manu. Rogers Sass Schoi Cowedt Luika Anae Pahukoa Lelewa Anie Uua Kini Keowa 250 ADDENDA 14 IN DISTRICT OF KOOLAULOA Date ISex Name Age IResidence Parent 1881 Jan. 15 6 4 I 6 4 S I S I S I S S S Jan. 16 1 I I 6 I A I I I S M M M M M F M M M M F F F M IKaukanii Kahopuaiki Hoolulu Kaili Auana Eliaka Kumauna Haleinele Kepiliano Kamuela Pono Lilia Kaha Kalua 8 6 4 11 6! 7 1 3 8 Kaaawa Kahana Punaluu Hauula Lau Wai Waialee Hookawo Peleia Pilahi Pua Kaaia Nele Kaaiahua Kaaikaula Napoe Wahiue Kaaelani 27 IN EWA & WAIANAE jan. 17 4 I jan. 18 19 is 44 I A St A I I I 4 6 I S Jan. 19 I A 6 4 1 9 a A I I I I I S I 9 S 9 I 9 I 9 I I M F F M M M M F M M F F F F F M M M M F M M F F M Temouo Teaaela Apikaela Kapela Keaweaheulu Naueiki Kama Loki Palea Kahalewai Kamealani Meaai Uele Kaili Kaulahiwa Hanale Kaniela Pakalau Kalua Ualia Poina Kalikiano Luukia Ualiekamalu Lui 25 25 23 2 6 4 8 7 7 8 7 4 5 4 10 8 7 9 7 6 3 1 6 5 1 Waianae Ho ot ul W I s i Waaw '5 Ma an W I m a n S. S. Islander Moanawainea Keawe Lahapa Keawe Maihui Napio Napela Pauelua Kamaka Malu Kahau Okunui Lepeka Laa Lepeka Lokea Luika Hana Ane Maunakapu ADDENDA 251 Date Sex Name Age Residence Parent 1881 Jan.19 F Aho 1 Waiau Akoa M Uikaele 4 Halawa Mele 11 IN HONOLULU DISTRICT Jan.21 M Pelepo 4 Moanalua Hamele M Kalaki 6.. F Menamena 4 " Opi F Malia 1 " Kalia F- Kiele 3 " Tuawa F Ikopoko 8 " Tatau M Joe 6 " Paniolu M Takaha 16 Kalihi Kima F Keo 3 " Kaapipi F Wainekomei 8 d" Kumiku." F Malia 6 I" Kaapipi 134 new vaccinations; oldest native vaccinated, 50 years; oldest South Sea Islander vaccinated, 60 years; oldest white vaccinated, 63 years. REPORT OF VACCINATIONS DURING SECOND TRIP AROUND OAHU 19 in Waiamea; 14 in Kahuku; 7 in Hikilolo; 7 in Kamaile; 1 in Nanakuli; 13 in Honouliuli; 13 in Waikele; 11 in Waipio; 9 in Waiawa; 8 in Manana; 1 in Waiau; 3 in Waimalu; 4 in Kalauao; 1 in Aiea; 2 in Halawa; 46 in Moanalua; 7 in Kalihi; 6 in Waialu; 17 in Makua; 4 in Nakiau; 86 in Waianae. Total-1010 vaccinations on Island of Oahu, Jany. 21, 1881. Hawaiian Gov. Interior Dept. To L. V. B., Dr. 18 days services $4 a day as Deputy Vaccinating Officer & expenses for self, constable "Kaahawai", Interpreter "Chas. Dwight" & $2 a day for horse...................................... $389.00 Approved H. A. P. Carter Minister of Int. I THE UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN DATE DUE I I I I. ll —'j, UIES yOF MCIA 3 9015 01414 0B 'VDO# NOT REMOV MUTILATE CARD I