t 
EtACIENDA OF TIIE MOWRY SILVER MINES 
ARIZONA AND SONORA:
GEOGRAPHY, HISTORY, AND RESOURCES
OF TIIE
SILVER REGION OF NORTH AMERICA.
BY
SYLVESTER MOWRY,
OF ARIZONA,
GRADUATE OF THE U. S. MILITARY ACADEMY AT WEST POINT, LATF
LIEUTENANT THIRD ARTILLERY, U. S. A., CORRESPONDING
MEMIBER OF THE AMERICAN INSTITUTE, LATE
U. S. BOUNDARY  COIMMISSIONER,
ETC., ETC., ETC.
Etrbf  Ebtfoa. 3Rcbffie' anl mutates.
NEW YORK:
HARPER & BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS,
FRANKTLIN  SQUARE.
I 8 6 4.
TI-lE 
Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year one thousand
eight hundred and sixty-four, by    -
HARPER & BROTHERS,
In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the Southern District
of New York.
I        -, I
,i I    i,I \};9.
?'.
i     E,   
TO THOSE LIVING,
AND THE
[emorp of tlose Stab,
KILLED BY THE APACHE INDIANS IN THE STRUGGLE TO REDEEM
ARIZONA FROM, BARBARISM, WIIO HAVE BEEN FOR
YEARS MY FAST FRIENDS THROUGH
GOOD AND EVIL REPORT,
CT~e wages are iffertfonate-!v ]De'catel;  
PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION.*
SLINCE the delivery of the following address, more
than four years ago, I have made several journeys in
Sonora and Arizona, and have resided about a year at
my place, the " Mowry Silver Mines," in Arizona.
In reading over the proof-sheets of this new edition,
I find nothing to alter or correct in essential fact. The
telegraph has just brought the intelligence of the Territorial organization of Arizona by the U.S. Congress,
and the appointment of the governor, judges, and other
officials. It is somewhat gratifying to me to know
that gentlemen who, four years since, denied the necessity of this measure, and opposed it by vote and influence most virulently on political grounds, have seen
the error of their ways. By reproducing my arguments and authorities, and even my words verbatim et
literatim, they have paid a tribute to truth the more
valuable that it comes from an unexpected source.
As I had then and have now an ambition for Arizona
far beyond private or personal views, I thank these
gentlemen heartily, and make them welcome to "all
the thunder" and all the political honors they have
stolen from me.
The limits of an evening address necessarily precluded details, and obliged me to confine myself to
general and prominent characteristics.  The Appendix
* Published in 1863 by Roman and Company, San Francisco. 
Preface to the Second Edition.
to this edition supplies this deficiency, and will, I trust,
be found sufficiently full to make the -work valuable
for permanent use and future reference.
I claim for the following pages but one merit-accuracy of statement and an entire absence of exaggeration. No pains have been spared in verifying, from
every valuable source, the facts presented, and I challenge the closest criticism on this point. The route
laid down for the railroad from E1 Paso to Guaymas
is only intended to indicate the general direction. It
is made to run through the Gaudalupe Pass, because
we know from actual survey that this Pass is practicable. I am informed, however, that a more southerly
pass through the Sierra Madre- exists, which would
much shorten the distance from E1 Paso to Arizpe.
General C. P. Stone informed me three years since that
he was convinced of the existence of this pass.
The great opportunities now existing for permanent
and richly paying investments in Sonora and Arizona
can not be too highly estimated.  Every facility is offered by the government for the development of the
mines by foreign capitalists. The old prejudice against
Americans is fast disappearing under the influence of
contact and mutual interest. The owners of valuable
mines are ready and willing to associate themselves
with respectable Americans on liberal terms. The
character of the men at this moment engaging in mining in Sonora and Arizona is aL sure guarantee of honest and efficient management-a certain assurance of
large returns.
In answer to many questions respecting the present
governor of Sonora-Senor Don Ygnacio PesqueiraI am glad to have the opportunity of saying that dur
viii 
Preface to the Second Edition.
ing several years of intercourse with him, more or less
intimate, I have found him honorable, liberal, and especially desirous of forwarding, in every legitimate
manner, the wishes and views of Americans whose enterprise had led them to Sonora. He said recently, in
conversation with several gentlemen, "I care nothing
for the political views of Americans who come here in
good faith to assist us in developing the mineral wealth
of the state. They shall have from me all the assistance that my own influence and the government can
afford." I am sure I am doing only an act of justice
in acknowledging many kindnesses from this gentleman, whom I am proud to call my friend.
Being neither "a prophet, nor the son of a prophet,"
I have carefully avoided political speculations in reference to Sonora. Thick-coming and unforeseen events
would be almost certain to "write down an ass" the
man who is bold enough to predict nowadays. One
thing, however, is sure-Sonora has taken a step in an
advancing career which will not be impeded.  Capital
and intelligence have again gained a footing in this
beautiful and wealthy state, and her course will be
rapid to prosperity and power.
The organization of Arizona, with the establishment
of courts, and the presence of a large military force,
will restore order, guarantee capital and labor, and
subdue or exterminate the hostile Apaches.
I beg to make my sincere acknowledgments to the
gentlemen who have favored me with notes, and espe cially to Don Juan A. Robinson, of Sonora, and Mr. J.
A. Peck, of San Francisco, for valuable manuscript
notes of mining localities in Sonora, which I have not
visited.                                    S. M.
A2
ix 
I 
C O N T E N T S.
CHAPTER I.
ADDRESS BEFORE THE AMERICAN GEOGRAPHICAL AND STATISTICAL
SOCIETY, NEW YORK, FEBRUARY 3, 1S59.
ARIZONA: Origin of the Name.-Boundaries.-Outlet.-The Gadsden
Purchase. —Early Settlements.-Mormons.-Mines.-Soil and Pro  ductions.-Indian Depredations.-The Valley of the Rio Grande.
-The Rivers Mimbres, Suanco, San Pedro, and Santa Cruz.-Tuc  son.-Tubac.-The Sonoita Valley.-Silver Region.-Desert Re  gion.-Arizona Copper Mine.-Valleys of the Colorado and Gila.  The Pimos.-The Apaches.-Other Indians.-Climate.-Cultiva  tion.-Population.-New Mexico and Arizona.-Importance of the
Organization of Arizona.-Copper and Silver Ores.-The Heintzel  man Mine.-Other Mines.-The Gold Region.-SONORA: Bound  aries, Government, and Population.-Origin of the Name.-Char  acter of the People.-Soil.-Mines.-The Real del Carmen.-Sier  ra del Oregano. - Ancient Population. - Traditions. - Silver and
Gold.-Climate and Productions.-Rivers and Towns.-Guaymas
and its Commerce.-Hermosillo. —Future of Sonora.-Pacific Rail  road...................................................................... Page 15
CHAPTER II.
CONDITION OF ARIZONA FROMI 1859 TO 1864.
Rapid Advance of Arizona.-Reverses,-Withdrawal of the Overland
Mail.-Ravages of the Apaches.-Mining Discoveries.-TlThe Heint  zelman and other Mines.-The Military Position.-The Mowry Sil  ver Mines.-Arrest of the Proprietor.-His Release.-The Mines
worked on Government Account.-The Apaches, and how to deal
with tlihem.-General Carleton.-Arizona in 1864.-Progress of the
Mines.-The Mowry Mines.-Mr. Kiistel's Report.-The Bounda  ries and Organization of the Territory.................................. 55
CHAPTER III.
THE MINES OF ARIZONA.  REPORT OF F. BIERTU, METALLURGIST AND
MINING ENGINEER, WRITTEN IN FEBRUARY, S1861.
The Mowry (formerly called the Patagonia) Silver Mines.-The Lodes
and Ores.-Shafts and Tunnels.-Owners.-Management.-Eagle
r,-   ., 
Contents.
Mines.-Empire or Montezuma Mine.-Santa Rita Mining Company.-Mariposa Mining Company.-Sonora Exploring and Mining
Company.-Cahuabi Mining Company.-Arizona Copper Mining
Company.-Sopori Land and Mining Company.-Arizona Land
and Mining Company.-Colorado River Copper Mines.-Stevenson
Mining Company.-Harris Mine.-St. Augustin Mining Company.
-Coal Mines.-Auriferous Quartz............................... Page 73
CHAPTER IV.
THE COLORADO RIVER MINES IN 1864.
Mining on the Colorado.-The River and its Navigation.-The differ ent Mining Districts on the Colorado. -Freight and Passage. Quality of the Orcs.-Mode of Working.-Furnaces and Fuel... 85
CHIAPTER V.
SONORA FRO.I 1859 TO 186S4.
Improvements since 1859. —The Southern Pacific Railroad.-The
Overland Mail.-Guaymas.-Labor in Sonora.-Great Mining Ha ciendas.-The Mining Districts, Alamos, San Xavier, Las Bronces,
Los Cedros.-Price of Labor. -The Jecker Contract for the Survey
of Sonora.-Captain Stone's Scientific Commission.-Its Failure. WVhat it accomplished.-Extracts from Captain Stone's Letters. WVhat the Contract granted.-Present Condition of Sonora....... 92
CHAPTER VI.
THE MINES OF LA CANANEA AND LA CIENREGUITA, SONORA.
La Cananea: Early Working of the Mines.-Don Ygnacio Perez.  The Sierra of La Cananea.-Condition of the Mines in 1860. Their Situation.-The different Mines.-The Orcs.-Chamunquc.
-Access to the Mines.-Assays of Ores.-La Cieneyguita: Situation
of the Mines.-Early Working.-Their Abandonment. -Titles. Location.-The Mines.-The Hacienda. -Fuel, Water, Building
Materials, Wages, Provisions, etc. -Resume. -Assays of the Ores
of La Cieneguita.......................................................... 103
CHAPTER VII.
THE SIERRA MADRER OF NEW MEXICO.
Mineral Wealth of Northern Mexico.-The Sierra Madre.-Mining
under the Spanish Dominion.-Ancient and Modern Mines.-Pres  ent Modes of Mining.-The Miners.-Gambussinos.-Their Mode
of Working.-Causes of the Decay in Mining.-Habits of the Min
xii 
ers.-Borascas and Bonanzas.-Expulsion of the Spaniards.-Withdrawal of Military Forces.-Ravages of the Indians.-Lack of Machinery.-Various Causes for the Abandonment of Mincs.-Necessity for Foreign Capital and Energy.-Inducements for its Investmient.-Political Relations of Sonoraand Chihuahua.-The Apaches.
-Special Advantages of Chihuahua, Sonora, and Sinaloa.-Value
and Distribution of the Ores.-Means of acquiring the Right to
Mines.-Hints to Capitalists...................................... Page 125
CHAPTER VIII.
THE MINES OF JESUS MARIA AND SAN JOSE.
Condition of Mining in Mexico. -WVealth of the old Spanish Miners.
-The Faults of their Successors.-A European Superintendent of
the Jesus Maria Mines.-M. Augustus Remuley.-Abandonment of
the Mines.-Recent Movements.-Present Prospects.-The Mines
near Jesus Maria and Josed.-Nuestra Sefiora del Rayo.-Santa Mar  garita.-San Jose del Rosario.-Candelaria.-San Rafael. -Haci  enda Quintana.-General Notes....................................... 140
CHAPTER IX.
MINERALOGICAL SKETCH OF ARIZONA.
Limits of Arizona.-Topography.-Geological Structure.-Character
of the Vegetation.-The Plains.-The Table-lands.-Rivers, Fount  ains, and Wells.-Arable and grazing Land.-Part of the great
Mineral Region.-The Heintzelman Mine.-Character of the Ores.
-Their Order of Deposit.-Processes of Reduction.-Defects in the
Processes.-Wages and other Expenses.-Results, actual and pros  pective. -The Plain of Arivaca.- Santa Rita Mines. - Cahuabi
Mines.-The San Pedro Mines.-Lead Mines.-The Mowry Silver
Mines.-Various Mines and Ores.-Plancha de la Plata.-General
Conclusions.................................................................. 158
CHAPTER X.
CORRESPONDENCE.
S. Mowry to J. R. Bartlett, Esq.-From J. R. Bartlett, Esq.-From
John C. Hays, Esq.-From Hon. Joseph Lane.-From John Nu  gent, Esq.-From Hon. Miguel A. Otero.-From S. W. Inge, Esq.  From Major C. E. Bennett.-From Sam. F. Butterworth, Esq... 176
Contents.
xiii 
Contents.
CHAPTER XI.
THE GOVERNMENT AND THE MINES.
The Mines of the West: shall the Government seize them?-The
Mining States: how shall they be Taxed?.......................... 200
CHAPTER XII.
THE SOUTHERN RAILROAD ROUTE TO THE PAcIFIC.
Jefferson Davis on the Route of the 32d Parallel: All Routes present
Obstacles; this the fewest.-Lieutenant Parke's Surveys. -Dis tances. -The Office Examination.-The Jornado.- Water and
Timber.-Distances and Elevations.-Mr. A. H. Campbell's Report.
-Temperature.-Opinions of Marcy and Emory.-Table of Com parative Lengths and Costs.-General Considerations.-National
Importance of a Pacific Railroad.
CHAPTER XIII.
THE SILVER MINES OF ARIZONA.
The San Antonio Mine.-Aspect of the Region.-The Mowry Mines.
-Scene at the Hacienda.-Pay-day.-Labor and Laborers.-His tory of the Mines.-Lieutenant Mowry.-Yield of the Mines.  Country and Climate.-Santa Rita Mines.-The Hacienda. —The
Salero Mines.-The Ores.-Grazing.-The Sopori Ranch.-The
Country and the Mines.-Prospects.-The Heintzelman Mine. The Country.-Past and Present of the Mines.-The Ores.-Mex ican Thieves. - The Arivaca Mines. - The Country. - Arizona
Mining Company.-Surrounding Mining Region.-The Cahuabia
District. - The Mines. - The Bahia Mines. - General Conclu sions.......................................................................... 232
POSTSCRIPT.
WVARD ON THE SILVER MINES OF NORTHERN MEXICO.
Projects for Mining.-The Mines of Arizpe.-Richness of Ores.  The Balls of Silver.-Old Spanish Decree.-Criaderos de Plata.  Speculations and Prospects.............................................. 249
xiv 
ARIZONA AND SONORA.
CHAPTER. I.
ADDRESS BEFORE THE AMERICAN GEOGRAPHICAL AND STATISTICAL
SOCIETY, NEW YORK, FEBRUARY 3, 1859.
ARIZONA: Origin of the Name.-Boundaries.-Outlet.-The Gadsden
Purchase.-Early Settlements.-Mormons.-Mines.-Soil and Pro  ductions.-Indian Depredations.-The Valley of the Rio Grande.
-The Rivers Mimbres, Suanco, San Pedro, and Santa Cruz.-Tuc  son.-Tubac.-The Sonoita Valley.-Silver Region.-Desert Re  gion.-Arizona Copper Mine.-Valleys of the Colorado and Gila.  The Pimos.-The Apaches.-Other Indians.-Climate.-Cultiva  tion.-Population.-New Mexico and Arizona.-Importance of the
Organization of Arizona.-Copper and Silver Ores.-The Heintzel  man Mine.-Other Mines.-The Gold Region.-SONORA: Bound  aries, Government, and Population.-Origin of the Name.-Char  acter of the People.-Soil -Mines.-The Real del Carmen.-Sier  ra del Oregano. - Ancient Population. - Traditions. - Silver and
Gold.-Climate and Productions.-Rivers and Towns.-Guaymas
and its Commerce.-Hermosillo.-Future of Sonora.-Pacific Rail  road.
THE name ARIZONA is undoubtedly derived from the
Aztec.  In the original it is Arizuma, and the change is
a corruption into the present word, which is accepted as
Spanish. We have no decided information as to its meaning, but the impression among those who have been curious enough to investigate is, that it signifies "silver-bearing." This impression gains strength from the fact that
the Arizona mountains are very rich in silver, and that a
tradition of a silver mine, called La Arizona, of incredible 
Arizo)na ancd Sonora.
richness, still exists among the Mexican people near the
frontier of our newly-acquired Territory. The proposed
Territory of Arizona is bounded on the north by the par allel of latitude 33~ 40'; on the east by Texas; on the
south by Texas and the Mexican States of Chihuahua and
Sonora; and on the west by the Colorado River, which
separates it from California. This great region is about
seven hundred miles long, with an average width of about
one hundred and forty miles, and contains nearly 100,000
square miles. It is twice as large as New York; embraces within its borders three of the largest rivers on the
continent west of the Mississippi, viz., the Rio Grande,
the Gila, and the Colorado of the West.*
The Colorado is the only navigable stream, and by its
waters and those of the Gulf of California, Arizona is
placed in easy communication with San Francisco and the
Pacific coast. The natural outlet for the productions of
Arizona must be through a port on the Gulf of California,
and the acquisition of California necessitates the possession of Sonora. That portion of Arizona now occupied,
and to which public attention is now attracted in so remarkable a degree, has been better known heretofore as
the "Gadsden Purchase."  It was acquired by purchase
from Mexico during the mission of General Gadsden, at a
cost of ten millions of dollars. In the original treaty, as negotiated by General Gadsden, a more southerly boundary
than the one adopted by the Senate of the United States
in confirming the treaty was conceded by Santa Anna.
The line at present is irregular in its course, and cuts
off from our Territory the head of the Santa Cruz River
and valley, the Sonoita valley, the San Bernardino valley,
the whole course of the Colorado River from a point
twenty miles below the mouth of the Gila River, and,
worse than all, the control of the head of the Gulf of Cali         * For boundaries as adopted, see Chapter II.
16 
Address before the Geographical Society, 1859. 17
fornia, and the rich and extensive valley of Lake Guzman,
besides a large and extremely valuable silver region, well
known both to Mexicans and Americans-the Planchas
de la Plata. General Gadsden's line included nearly all
the territory south of the Gila River to the thirty-first
parallel of latitude-all the advantages above mentioned
and gave us the mouth of the Colorado River.
The Gadsden Purchase is attached by act of Congress
to the Territory of New Mexico. At the time of its acquisition there was scarcely any population, except a few
scattering Mexicans in the Mesilla valley, and at the old
town of Tucson, in the centre of the Territory. The
Apache Indian, superior in strength to the Mexican, had
gradually extirpated every trace of civilization, and roamed uninterrupted and unmolested, sole possessor of what
was once a thriving and populous Spanish province.
In the possession of the writer of these notes is a map
drawn in 1757, over one hundred years ago, presented
by the Society of Jesuits to the King of Spain. The
original of this map is now in the archives of the Mexi can government. It was copied, with the notes relating
to the Territory and Sonora, Chihuahua and Sinaloa, by
Captain C. P. Stone, late of the United States Army.
The map bears the inscription, "Ccrte levee par la So ciete des Je'suites dedige  au 2Roi (d'-spayne e) 1757."
The copy of the map and the accompanying notes are
certified as accurate by the officer of the Mexican gov ernment in charge of the archives.
My information, therefore, upon the early history of
this comparatively unknown domain, is accurate and reli able. As early as 1687, a Jesuit missionary from the
province of Sonora, which, in its southern portion, bore
already the impress of Spanish civilization, descended the
valley of the Santa Cruz River to the Gila. Passing down
the Gila to its mouth, after exploring the country, he re 
Arizona and Soniorca.
traced his steps, penetrated the country north of the Gila
River for some distance, and ascended the Salinas or Salt
River, and other northern branches of the Gila.  The ex plorations of this energetic priest did not stop here.  Pro ceeding east, he explored the valley of the San Pedro and
its branches, thence along the Gila to the Mimbres, and
probably to the Rio Grande and the Mesilla valley.  Fill ed with the enthusiasm of his sect, he procured authority
from the head of the order in Mexico, and established
missions and settlements at every available point.
The reports of the immense mineral wealth of the new
country, made by the Jesuits, induced a rapid settlement.
There are laid down on the map before me more than
forty towns and villages. MIany of these were of consid erable size.  There were a few  north of the Gila, and
several on the lower Gila, near the Colorado. The Santa
Cruz and its tributary valleys teemed with an agricultural and mining population. Thousands of enterprising
Spaniards cultivated the rich valley of the San Pedro,
and scattered settlements flourished at every suitable
stream and spring at the foot of the mountains toward
the Rio Grande. The notes before me say:
"All these settlements and missions were founded in
fertile valleys, and by streams and springs, which produced luxuriant crops of wheat, corn, and beans, and in
many parts grapes and other foreign fruits were cultivated."
In the western part of the territory were the missions
of St. Pierre, St. Paul, St. Matthias, St. Simond, St. Francisco, Merci, the ranches of Eau Cheri, Eau de la Lube, and
others; on the Santa Cruz the missions of San Xavier del
Bac, Santiago, San Cayetano, and San Philipe; the towns
of Tucson, Tubac, Regis, San Agusta, and many others.
San Xavier del Bac is still in existence. It is a mission
church of great size and beauty, magnificently ornamented
18 
Address before the Geographical Society, 1859. 19
within; forty thousand dollars in solid silver served to
adorn the altar.  Upon the San Pedro River were the
missions of St. Mark, San Salvadore, San Pantaleon, Santa
Cruz, and the towns of Quiduria, Rosario, Eugenia, Victoria, and San Fernando-the latter at the mouth-with
many more. To the east some small settlements were
found on the Valle del Saux, on the Mimbres, at the copper mines north of the Mimbres, and to the south the
immense grazing and stock-raising establishment of San
Bernardino, where since have been raised hundreds of
thousands of cattle and horses. The Indians in the vicinity of the missions were reduced first to obedience by the
Jesuits, and then to slavery by the Spaniards.
The notes referred to above contain the names and lo calities of more than a hundred silver and gold mines,
which were worked with great success by the Spaniards.
The survey of the Jesuit priest about 1687 was repeated
in 1710, with renewed discoveries, and consequent acces sion of population. From this time up to 1757 the con quest and settlement of the country was prosecuted with
vigor, both by the Jesuits' Society and the Spanish gov ernment.
The missions and settlements were repeatedly destroy ed by the Apaches, and the priests and settlers massacred
or driven off. As often were they re-established. The
Indians at length, thoroughly aroused by the cruelties of
the Spaniards, by whom they were deprived of their lib erty, forced to labor in the silver mines with inadequate
food, and barbarously treated, finally rose, joined with
tribes who had never been subdued, and gradually drove
out or massacred their oppressors. A superior civiliza  tion disappeared before their devastating career, and to  day there is scarcely a trace of it left, except scarcely vis  ible ruins, evidences every where of extensive and hastily  deserted mining operations, and the tradition of the coun 
Arizona dnd Sonora.
try. The mission of San Xavier del Bac, and the old
towns of Tucson and Tubac, are the most prominent of
these remains.
From 1757 down to 1820, the Spaniards and Mexicans
continued to work many valuable mines near Barbacora,
and the notes in my possession speak of many silver
mines, most of which contained a percentage of gold.
"The San Pedro gold mine in 1748 was worked with ex traordinary success." Among the mines anciently work ed, as laid down in the authorities heretofore referred to,
were the Dolores, San Antonio, Casa Gordo, Cabrisa, San
Juan Bautista, Santa Anna (which was worked to the
depth of one hundred and twenty yards), Rosario, Cata
de Agua, Guadaloupe, Connilla, Prieta, Santa Catarina,
Guzopa, Hurstano, Arpa, Descuhidara, Nascosare, Arguage, Churinabibi, Iuacal, Pinal, and a great number of
others, which it would only be tedious to mention.
Every exploration within the past few years has confirmed the statements of the ancient records. The testimony of living Mexicans and the tradition of the country
all tend to the same end. Colonel A.B. Grey, Colonel
Emory, Lieutenant Michler, Lieutenant Parke, the HIon.
John R. Bartlett, late of the United States Boundary
Commission, all agree in the statement that the Territory
has immense resources in silver and copper. Colonel
Emory says in his report:
"On account of the gold mania in California, I kept the
search for gold and other precious metals as much out of
view as possible, scarcely allowing it to be a matter of
conversation, much less of actual search. Yet enough
was ascertained to convince us that the whole region was
teeming with the precious metals. We every where saw
the remains of mining operations, conducted by the Spaniards, and more recently by the M/exicans."
The report enumerates at considerable length the va
20 - 
A((dress before the Geographical Society, 1859.   21
rious localities examined by Colonel Emory's party and
others, of which there could be no doubt. The Hon.
John R. Bartlett says of the Salinas, one of the northern
branches of the Gila, that it alone will supply food for a
great state. It must be recollected in this connection
that the great mineral wealth of Arizona will call for, and
amply repay for, the redemption and expensive cultivation of all the available lands, and that irrigation prodcluces immensely greater crops than the other method of
planting.. Throughout the whole of Utah irrigation has
been resorted to with the greatest success. The soil in
Utahl, in no place that the writer saw it, could in any way
be compared to that of the bottom lands of Arizona.
Captain Whipple, in his valuable report of exploration for
the Pacific Railroad, published by order of Congress,
crossed the upper part of the region alluded to, and which
is watered by the Rio Verde. and Salinas.  He fully sustains me in my remarks on those rich valleys:
" We are in the pleasantest region we have seen since
we left the Choctaw country. Here are clear rivulets,
with fertile valleys and forest trees. The wide belt of
country that borders the Black Forest, and probably extends along the Rio Verde to the Salinas and Gila, bears
every indication of being able to support a large agricultural and pastoral population. The valley of the Rio
Verde is magnificently wooded with firs and oaks, affording excellent timber. Ancient ruins are said by trappers
to be scattered over its whole length to the confluence
with the Salinas. We therefore seem to have skirted
the boundary of a country once populous, and worthy of
becoming so again. Besides the advantages already enumerated, the mountains in this vicinity bear indications
of mineral wealth."-Vol. iii., p. 93.
The notes above referred to, in the possession of the
writer, speak of great farming and grazing establishments 
Arizona and Sonora.
scattered over the whole face of the Territory, between
1610 and 1800, which produced abundant crops of cereals,
fruits, and grapes. These statements are confirmed by
the testimony of Major Emory and his report, where he
enumerates several of the most extensive; by Grey, Bartlett, Parke, and Colonel Bonneville.  Many of the ranches,
deserted by the Mexicans on account of the Apache Indians, have upon themn large, well-built adobe houses,
which must have cost the builders thousands of dollars.
Many of these have been occupied under squatter titles
by emigrants within the last few years. Of others only
the ruins remain, having been destroyed by the depredations of the Indians, or by the heavy rains of succeeding
years.
The country east of the Rio Grande is a great plain,
broken only by the Sacramento and Guadalupe Mountains. Except in the towns on the river there is no population. The MIescalero Apaches have until lately made
settlements unsafe.  The establishment of Fort Stanton,
and the activity of the United States troops, have, however, reduced this once formidable tribe in number and spirit, so that an early settlement of the fine country in the
vicinity of the Sacramento Mountains may be expected.
I have not visited this portion of the Territory, but from
persons in whom I have perfect confidence I learn that
there is a large and valuable district, offering great inducements to, stock-raisers; a number of bold, clear streams,
alive with trout and other fish; a good proportion of
arable land, and an inexhaustible supply of oak, pine, hackberry, and other timber. In the Organ Mountains, opposite the Mesilla valley, there are silver mines of great value. One of these, the old Stevenson Mine, now known
as the Fort Fillmore Mine, has been purchased by New
York capitalists, and preparations are making to develop
its undoubted wealth.
22 
Address before the Geographical Society, 1859.  23
The Rio Grande valley, including the well-known Mesilla, contains a large extent of unoccupied arable land,
with plenty of water for irrigation.  Until lately, the protection afforded by United States troops has enabled the
people to cultivate in safety, and during the last year
nearly one hundred thousand bushels of grain were raised
in the valley, besides a large number of cattle and horses.
It is worthy of remark, that the settlements here, although
mostly Mexican, have been made since the United States
acquired the Territory, and that the lands are held under
American title. The population is quiet, well behaved,
and thoroughly American in feeling. It is estimated, and
I believe correctly, that at least 50,000 people can be settled on the Rio Grande within the Arizona boundaries,
and there are many attractions for the farmer and stockraiser. West of the Rio Grande the country is a succession of mesas or table-lands, ascending gently for nearly
ninety miles to the Sierra Madre, and thence westward
for five hundred miles, gradually descending until they
reach the Gulf of California. This extensive plateau
south of the Gila is broken by two well-defined ranges of
mountains, the Chir-aca-hui and Santa Rita, and by a number of isolated peaks, which assume something the form
of a sugar-loaf, and are called by the Mexicans Picachos
and Peloncillos.
The sun never shone on a finer grazing country than
upon the three hundred miles west of the Rio Grande.
The traveler has before him throughout the entire distance a sea of grass, whose nutritious qualities have no
equal, and the stock-raiser in January sees his cattle in
better condition than our Eastern farmer his stall-fed ox.
Ninety miles west of the Rio Grande is the Mimbres River and valley. Passing over the dividing ridge of the
Sierra Madre, with so gentle an ascent and descent as to
make it almost imperceptible, you descend into a wide 
Arizona and Sonora.
and beautiful valley, which at no distant day will support
a large population. The banks of the river are covered
with a fine growth of cottonwood, and above the usual
crossing for emigrants wild grapes and berries are found
in great profusion. The Santa Rita del Cobre copper
mine, of ancient fame, and a little to'the northwest of the
MiAimbres, has lately been reopened by a capitalist, who
has already begun to reap the reward of his enterprise.
One hundred and thirty thousand pounds of this copper
were sold a few months since to the Chihuahua mint for
thirty-five cents per pound. A quantity has been sent to
London and to New York to be experimented on.* It is
claimed that the superior malleability and ductility of this
copper must make the demand for it very great. The
limbres River sinks before reaching the line of Mexico.
Some statements, which I have never been able to authenticate, make it flow in very rainy seasons into Lake Guzman. The Suanco, or Valle de Saux, is the next valley on
the line of the emigrant road. The waters of this stream
are very limited and intermittent. As it approaches the
Gila the valley becomes better, but it will never be available for extensive agriculture. The San Pedro River
and valley, two hundred and fifty miles west of the Rio
Grande, is par excellence the agricultural district south
of the Gila. The valley is wide, very rich soil, and is
considerably over one hundred miles in length. Owing
to the depredations of the Apaches, no settlements have
yet been made in this valley. There is, near the junction
of the San Pedro with the Gila, and at the mouth of the
Arivypa, a most beautiful and fertile region. A fine
growth of ash covers the valley. The Santa Rita MIountnins, which separate the San Pedro and Santa Cruz, contain inexhaustible supplies of pine and oak, besides untold
millions of the precious metals. A military post of four
* See-Appendix for later results.
24 
Address before the Geographical Society, 1859.   25
companies at the mouth of the Arivypa would open this
entire country to settlement.
Still following the emigrant and mail road fifty miles,
brings us to the old Mexican town of Tucson and the valley of the Santa Cruz. Like most of the streams, the
Santa Cruz is intermittent, sinking and rising at irregular
intervals. A portion of this valley is covered with a
heavy growth of cottonwood. The mountains in the vicinity contain pine and oak, and the extensive tracts of
grazing lands south to the Mexican line are covered
thickly with the mesquit   the best fuel in the world.
The town of Tucson now contains about a thousand inhabitants. It once had three thousand; but the Indians, who
desolated the whole of the Territory, had driven away all
but about two hundred at the time of the Gadsden Purchase. Nine miles from Tucson, as you go up the valley
of the Santa Cruz, is the old mission church of San Xavier, to which I have alluded elsewhere. It is still surrounded by a Papago Indian village; a few tame Apaches
and a few whites also live under the shadow of its towers. Incredible as the statement may seem, the church
of San Xavier, with its elaborate fagade, its dome and
spires, would to-day be an ornament to the architecture
of this great metropolis. No better evidence is needed
of the resources and former prosperity of Arizona than is
to be found in the now deserted missions of San Xavier
and Tumacacori.
The town of Tubac, fifty miles southeast of Tucson,
which now boasts a population of several hundred, was entirely deserted up to 1855, when it was reoccupied in part
by the Sonora Exploring and Mining Company. They
claim the town, and have given permission to a number
of emigrants to occupy the old houses and build new
ones. Over what was once the towers of the barracks
of the Mexican troops now floats a banner bearing the
B 
Arizona and Sonora.
arms of peace, a hammer and pick, the insignia of the
company; and in the rooms beneath, which once echoed
to the tread of the successful Apache fighter, are now sold
the calicoes and cotton goods of Lowell, and all manner
of Yankee notions.  The great Ileintzelman Mine, the
mines of Arivaca, Sopori, and Santa Rita, are within a
circle of twenty miles from Tubac. Three miles from
Tubac is the mission of Tumacacori. Its venerable walls
now shelter political exiles from Sonora and a few enterprising Germans, and its rich lands are cultivated by the
American squatter. Twelve miles farther up the Santa
Cruz is the ranch of Calabazas, claimed as the property
of the Gandara family, of Sonora. The extensive buildings are occupied by American families, and the blacksmith's forge is installed in a room once dedicated to
more delicate uses.
The Sonoita valley, which opens into the Santa Cruz
near Calabazas, is the only one in any degree protected
by the United States troops.  It is about fifty miles long,
in no place exceeding a mile in width, and generally much
narrower.  When I passed up it to Fort Buchanan, the
whole valley was golden with grain. In one field there
were one hundred and fifty acres of corn. I counted
upon four stalks eighteen full-grown ears, and the average height of the stalks was fifteen feet. When it is
borne in mind that this land was but just turned, the corn
planted and neither hoed nor suckered, I am sure it will
be conceded that there is some agricultural land of value
in Arizona. On several of the farms two crops were
raised last year, wheat and corn, wheat and beans, and
other vegetables. The farmer during the past year found
a ready market for his produce, his purchasers being the
troops and the Overland Mail Company. This valley is
almost entirely taken up by an intelligent and adventur-'
ous American population; and here is almost the only
26 
Address before the Geographical Society, 1859.  27
place in Arizona where you find that greatest of all blessings on the frontier-American women.
The Santa Cruz and San Pedro approach each other
near the Mexican line; and by way of Santa Cruz- a
Mexican town at the head of the valley in Sonora-you
can pass from one to the other with ease. The whole region between the Rio Grande and the Santa Cruz is
broken with conical-shaped hills and mountains, called by
the Mexicans peloncillos. At the foot of these hills are
found springs, which afforded water to the immense herds
of cattle and horses which once covered the country;
and at many of these springs are found the ruins of buildings occupied by the herders. The hills are covered to
the top with the gramma, and other nutritious grasses.
Twenty miles east of the Sonoita valley, and just north
of the town of Santa Cruz, is one of the richest silver regions of Arizona.  The Wachupe Mountain is believed to
be inexhaustible in silver. The San Antonio and Patagonia* mines, lately opened, promise a rich yield to their
owners. One of these is of especial value, yielding, besides a large percentage of silver, 53 per cent. of lead,
which is purchased readily by the surrounding mining
companies to be used in reducing their ores.  The once
celebrated Compadre mines, lately rediscovered, are in
this vicinity. The present fortunate proprietors found
them after a long and painful search. The shafts were
found carefully concealed, partially filled with rubbish;
and thirteen furnaces in tolerable preservation prove how
extensively the mines were once worked by the Spaniards.
Here, as in the whole of Arizona, the work of prospecting
and exploring has but just begun. The ores of this dis trict are principally argentiferous galena.
West of the Santa Cruz, and south of the valley of the
Gila to the Colorado River, the Territory is generally an
* The Patagonia is now known as the "Mowry Silver Mines." 
q
Arizona and Sonora.
irreclaimable desert.  Its mountains abound in the pre —
cious metals, and a sufficiency of water for mining operations can be usually obtained without exorbitant expense.
The celebrated Ajo copper mine, now known as the Arizona copper mine, is in this district. Mr. Edward E. Dunbar, whose facile pen has lately presented to the public,
through the columns of the -Daily Times, some lifelike
sketches of this portion of Arizona, was formerly the director of this mine, and the first, I believe, to demonstrate
the fact that water could be obtained. I take much
pleasure in bearing testimony to the conscientious regard
for truth which characterizes Mr. Dunbar's statements;
and although I am forced to differ with him in some of
his conclusions, his knowledge of the country, gained by
a long and painful experience, entitle his opinion to much
respect. The Arizona Mine will one day prove of immense value; like the rest of the mining companies, it
needs the outlet on the Gulf of California.
The valley of the Colorado is fertile, and will produce
all the tropical fruits as well as the cereals. The Indians,
favored by the annual overflow, raise abundant crops of
wheat, corn, pumpkins, melons, and beans.  The remains
of extensive irrigating canals show that at some day
long past a large agricultural population lived here. The
extreme heat of the climate in the summer months will
prevent white labor from agricultural pursuits to any
great extent. Rice, sugar, and cotton are best adapted
to the soil of the Colorado bottom. There is in places
along the bank a fine growth of cottonwood, and the
whole valley abounds with the mesquit. This is the only
portion of the Territory where the heat is excessive.
The valley of the Gila River, whose waters, flowing
from east to west, divide the Territory nearly in the centre, four hundred miles long, can in most places be brought
under cultivation to a greater or less extent. Since the
28 
Address before the Geographical Society, 1859.  29
discovery of gold, a number of farms have been opened,
and hundreds of acres of rich land put under cultivation.
The Gila empties into the Colorado one hundred and
twenty-five miles above the head of the Gulf of California. It is well to observe here that the difference in soil
in different latitudes has not'been sufficiently appreciated.
The same soil which, under the climate of Oregon, is barren and worthless, becomes, under the more genial sun of
Arizona, firuitful, and, when irrigated, produces the same
extraordinary crops as are found in California. The land
cultivated by the Pimos on the Gila seems inexhaustible.
Year after year they cultivate the same crops on the same
land, with nothing but water to enrich it, and there is no
sign of failure.
The valley known as La Florida, near the mountain of
the same name, in latitude 109~, is worthy of especial
mention, as having at its head the ruins of a once flourishing town. A large population will again occupy it at
no distant day. But little is known of the country north
of the Gila; it is very mountainous, but contains several
valleys of considerable size, nearly all of which bear the
impress of an ancient and superior civilization. The principal northern tributaries of the Gila are the Salado, the
Tuberoso, the San Carlos, and the San Francisco (sometimes called the Alamos). The Salado, according to my
informant, Marcial, an Apache chief, has six small branches, four flowing from the east, two from the west. The
Salado is the largest of all these streams, and has its source
about latitude 34~, in the Sierra Blanca Mountains. On
all these streams the Apache Indian cultivates crops, principally of corn. The band known as the Coyetero, Pinal,
or Sierra Blanca, cultivate most, although they have had
the least intercourse with the whites.
The Indians of Arizona are best classed as "friendly"
and "hostile.'" The friendly Indians are the Pimos, Mar 
Arizona and Sonora.
icopas, Papagos, and Yumas, with a few scattering, miserable tame Apaches. The Pimos and Maricopas occupy a
beauitiful and fertile tract on the Gila, one hundred and
eighty miles from its junction with the Colorado. They
are a brave and hospitable race: they live in villages, and
cultivate the arts of peace. Their regular fields, wellmade irrigating ditches, and beautiful crops of cotton,
wheat, corn, pumpkins, melons, and beans, have not only
gladdened the eye, but also given timely assistance to the
thousands of emigrants who have traversed Arizona on
their way to the Pacific.  The costume of the Pimos is
extremely simple, only covering their loins, and a small
straw hat, except in the case of the chiefs, who wear a
sort of pantaloon of coarse cotton cloth. The Pimos and
Apaches wage hereditary and fierce war, in which the Pimos are generally the victors. So high were their services valued by the Mexican government as a barrier to the
incursions of the Gila Apaches, that whenever they visited the Mexican towns, the authorities treated them with
marked hospitality and kindness, making them presents
of value, to be paid for by the public treasury. Much as
we pride ourselves upon our superior government, no
measures* have been taken to continue our friendly relations with the Pimos; and to our shame be it said, it is
only to the forbearance of these Indians that we owe the
safety of the life of a single American citizen in Central
or Western Arizona, or the carriage of the mails overland
to the Pacific. The Maricopas live near the Pimos, and
by contiguity and intermarriage have become similar in
their customs. The Papagos resemble, but are inferior to
the Pimos, do not cultivate so much, and live in scattered
villages in the central and western parts of the Territory.
The Apache-tribe of fatal memory for Sonora and all
* The United States government have since, under urgent pressure
of the writer, made some small appropriations for the Pimos Indians.
30 
Address before the Geogrcphical Society, 1859. 3Al
Northern Mexico, are best classified under their modern
names: the MIescaleros, east of the Rio Grande; the Mimbres, Mogollones, Chiracahuis, Coyeteros or Pinaleros, Sierra Blanca, and the Tontos. In the order I have mentioned them, west from the Rio Grande, all of these have
their homes north of the Gila, except the Chiracahuis.
Velasco says these tribes have no fixed residence, no
common society, no positive antecedents; they are best
compared to the prairie wolf, sneaking, cowardly, revengeful, quick to assassinate the weak, and to fly from or yield
to the strong.. It is impossible for one who has not seen
Northern Mexico to imagine the desolation they have
made in a country where Nature has done so much. The
name Infelix Sonora-most unhappy- given by all the old
writers, is most painfully true: firom the Gila, in latitude
32~ 30', to Guaymas, in latitude 28~, their' ravages are
every where visible.  Horrible as is the statement, more
than one fourth of the Apaches of to-day are Mlexican
captives or their descendants. Not only ranches, and villages, and towns, but whole districts, have been depopulated, and the work is still going on.  In small parties,
and by different mountain passes, they descend into Sonora, surprise and attack a train of travelers or a town,
massacre the men, and carry off the women, with such
booty as they can hastily seize, to their haunts on the
Gila.
I have obtained from MIarcial, a leading Apache chief,
and still a Mexican, much valuable information respecting
these Indians. He had been carried off while a child, and
had become, like his captors, savage. Velasco* says:
" Without hesitation, it must be admitted that under no
good treatment does the Apache yield his barbarism, his
perfidy, or his atrocity; notwithstanding the many treaties of peace made with the Pueblos, and the constant
* Noticias y Estadisticas del Estado de Sonora.  Jose F. Velasco. 
Arizona and Sonora.
campaigns against them, upon the first opportunity they
break faith, and become worse than before. Though it is
incontrovertible that the Apaches are the most ferocious
tribe on our border, yet the same may be said even of
those who, from the time of the conquest, belong among
us; they call themselves pacific, yet have never, generally
speaking, had sympathy with the whites; they have not
adopted our manners and customs, nor have we existing
between us that confidence which inspires a same race,
when they profess the same principles of social ties; in
fact, during the whole period ofptime that they have been
subordinates of our government, they have followed a
system of contradiction and opposition against it as far
as they were able. The unequivocal proof of this truth
have been the frequent assaults that they have made upon
us under the pretext of foolish stories with which they
were misled, and sometimes without any cause at all."
The whole number of Apache warriors does not exceed
two thousand. I have investigated this subject with
probably more care than any other person, and am satisfied the number is rather under than over the truth. Being cowardly, they are afraid of Americans, and do not
murder.* Their depredations in our territory are mostly
confined-to stealing cattle, horses, and mules. Arizona
will have no peace, and her great wealth as a pastoral region must remain undeveloped, until the War Department sends a strong force, and reduces them by fear of
absolute submission. They must be fed by the government, or exterminated. They know no alternative but
to steal or starve; and Northern Mexico has been their
prey for too many years for them to learn the arts of
peace.
The Navajoes are included by Velasco among the
* Since this address was delivered, information has been received
of the murder of several Americans by the Apaches.
32 
Address before the Geographical Society, 1859.  33
Apaches. They live in New Mexico along the 34th parallel of north latitude. The Yumas, the remains of a once
powerful tribe, live on the Colorado, near the Gila; they
are quiet; sufficiently agricultural to subsist. A few
years will leave them only their name.
The climate of Arizona, except on the Lower Gila and
the Colorado, is delicious; never extremely hot, with cool
summer nights, it offers great attractions to those who
desire more genial skies than those of the North. Snow
never lies in the winter - seldom falls; frost is rare,
though the nights are often cold, seldom freezing. The
season for cultivating is long, fruits blooming in February
and March. Cotton, cor, wheat, barley, tobacco, melons,
grapes, peaches, and all the vegetables, yield profuse crops
throughout the Territory. The grape of the Rio Grande
valley has no superior, and wine of good quality is manufactured from it. The rainy season in Arizona is from
June to September inclusive.
Professor Henry has, I believe, "demonstrated" that no
rain falls in Arizona or Sonora. I have not seen his paper, but understand it is a beautiful theory. It is much
to be regretted, for his sake, although not for the country,
that the facts are against it. Cultivation in Arizona is
by irrigation. It is believed, by those who are capable
of judging, that, with subsoil plowing, good crops can be
obtained without irrigation, and the results of one year
are quoted in support of the theory.  It will take a series
of years to prove it satisfactorily to the farmer. The
yield throughout Arizona is two crops from the same 
land each year.
The population of Arizona to-day [1858] exceeds ten
thousand souls, exclusive of Indians; two thirds of it is
established on the Rio Grande, in the towns of Mesilla,
Las Cruces, La Mesa, Don Ana, Amoles, Santo Tomas,
Santa Barbara, Pichacho, and the surrounding ranches,
B2 
Arizona angd Sonora.
including the floating population of the Gila gold mines.
The American population of the Territory is not far from
two thousand.  This is vastly increasing, and the ensuing
spring will see it vastly increased. The gold discoveries,
the Overland Mail, which runs throughout the entire
length of Arizona, the large amount of capital invested in
the silver mines, together with the increasing movement
westward of our people, will add largely to the already
vigorous and enterprising population of the new Territory.  It must be added that there is no law or protection firom the government: every man redresses his
wrongs with the pistol or knife, or submits in silence.
The Gadsdeni Purchase was not originally an integral
part of Mexico: it was acquired years aftel- the treaty of
Guadaloupe Hidalgo, and was only attached to the Territory of New Mexico as a temporary expedient.  It
must also be remembered that the Gadsden Purchase,
with that portion of New Mexico which it is proposed to
include within the limits of the Territory of Arizona, is
separated from New Mexico proper by natural boundaries; that it derives no benefit from the present connection; and that any opposition to the desired legislation
arises firom the Mexican population, which fears the influence of a large American emigration. Moreover, that
New Mexico contains upward of 200,000 square miles, and
that its organic act provides for its partition; showing
clearly that Congress anticipated at no remote day the
settlement of the country by an American population, and
its erection into several territories and states. The only
effect of the present connection of Arizona with New
Mexico is to crush out the voice and sentiment of the
American people in the Territory; and years of emigration under present auspices would not serve to counterbalance or equal the influence of the 60,000 Mexican residents of New Mexico. New Mexico has never encour
84 
Address before the Geographical Society, 1,859.  35
aged American population. She is thoroughly Mexican
in sentiment, and desires to remain so.
As a matter of state policy, the organization of Arizona
is of the first importance. Situated between New MIexico and Sonora, it is possible now to make it a thoroughly
American state, which will constantly exert its influence
in both directions to nationalize the other two.  New
3Iexico is at present thoroughly Mexican in its character
and vote.  Sonora, if wie acquire it at- once, will be the
same. By separating Arizona firom it, and encouraging
an American  emigration, it will become  the "leaven
which shall leaven the whole lump." By allowing it to
remain attached to New Mexico, or by attaching it to
Sonora when acquired, the American influence will be
swallowed up in the great preponderance of the Mexican
vote. The Apache Indian is preparing Sonora for the
rule of a higher civilization than the Mexican. In the
past half century the Mexican element has disappeared
firom what is now called Arizona, before the devastating
career of the Apache. It is every day retreating farther
south, leaving to us (when it is ripe for our possession)
the territory without the population.
The American population is mostly concentrated in the
centre of the Territory, in and near the Santa Cruz valley,
and on the lower Gila, at the gold mines. The Overland
Mail Company, by the establishment -of their stations at
intervals rarely exceeding twenty miles, have much facilitatedcl intercourse and travel; and the emigration of this
year will cluster around these stations, pouring a line of
villages across the continent-in the language of the President, "a chain of American citizens which will never be
broken." The establishment of the Overland Mail is not
only one of the great triumphs of the age, but it is anl element 6f civilization which none appreciates but the front iersman. 
Arizona and Sonora.
The ores of copper found in Arizona and Sonora are
usually the sulphurets, principally gray.  The ores of silver are argentiferous galena, native silver, auriferous sulphuret of silver, black sulphuret of silver, sulphate of silver, sulphate of iron combined. The gangue is usually
quartz or feldspar. I have before me many notes descriptive of various mineral localities, even to minuteness,
but the limits of this address will not permit especial
mention of them.
The development of the mineral wealth of Arizona has
but just commenced, yet enough has been done to give a
brilliant promise for the future. The Sonora Company,
under the direction of Charles I). Poston, Esq., and more
lately under that of Major Heintzelman, of the army, have
expended a large capital in opening and prospecting their
rich possessions.  The Heintzelman Mine-so called after
the president of the company-bids fair to become more
famous than any of the great mines of old Mexico. From
a late letter it is claimed that the ores thus far smelted
yield the astonishing average of $950 per ton. I saw this
mine in September of last year. About two hundred
tons of the ore had already been extracted, and the yield
from one small furnace was about one thousand ounces
per week. At a cost of $30,000 the company have
brought from San Francisco and erected amalgamating
works, from which they expect to obtain $3000 per daya million a year. This mine has the most extraordinary
reputation throughout Sonora. I found, in traveling
through the state, that almost every shopkeeper knew
the value of the ore. It was obtained from the miners,
who had stolen, and sold or exchanged it for goods. The
Sopori* Mine, which has only been worked in a small
way, promises also a rich yield.  I have cut with a penknife native silver from ore taken from the Sopori.
* See Appendix.
36 
Address before the Geographical Society, 1859. 37
San Antonio and Patagonia have been already mentioned, as well as the Compadre Mines. Many others are
known to exist, and their owners are only waiting for the
protection of a Territorial government to commence work.
Others are deterred by want of capital.  Several hundred
thousand dollars have already been invested in mines in
Arizona, and several companies are now forming. It is
my profound belief that the most colossal fortunes this
country has ever known will be made from the mines
of Arizona and Sonora. The Santa Rita copper mine,
near the Mimbres, has already been mentioned, as has the
Arizona. On the Colorado, forty miles above the mouth
of the Gila, on navigable waters, a copper mine is being
efficiently worked. It promises to be inexhaustible, and,
from its advantageous position, must be immensely valuable. The ore contains a percentage of gold. Silver has
also been found on the Colorado, also gold quartz. On
the Gila copper is abundant. In fact, the Territory of
Arizona seems inexhaustible in minerals. Iron, copper,
silver, and gold are found in hundreds of localities. A
plumbago mine was discovered during the past year.
Quicksilver is the only metal of which no mention has
yet been made. I do not know of any in the Territory,
though its existence is probable.
Of the great extent of the gold region of Arizona there
can be no doubt. The late discovery of placers, or surface diggings, on the Gila, has long been anticipated.
Emory, in 1849, expressed his belief in its existence.
Many an emigrant, on his way to California, has found
"the color.'  Senator Gwin informs me that he heard
of gold on the Gila from emigrants at San Diego in 1849.
All the frontiersmen and trappers unite in saying that
coarse gold is found in the streams north of the Gila.
Marcial, the Apache chief before mentioned, told me the
fane.  That gold in quartz veins exists in many parts 
Arizona and Sonora.
of the Territory, we know, not only fiom ancient record
and tradition, but from actual observation and experiment.  A vein has been opened, and, as soon as it is safe,
will be worked, in the Apache Pass, four hundred miles
east ofthe present placers. Almost every silver and copper vein yet opened shows, by close analysis, a trace of
gold. In the Sopori Mine it has gone as high as three
per cent.  At the Santa  Rita del Cobre, the Mexican
miners, after their day's labor is over ill the mine, work
the placers in the vicinity, making sure but small wages.
Tradition tells us that many years since the ores of this
mine were so rich in gold as to pay transportation to the
city of Mexico on mule-back.  A gold placer is believed
to exist near a Papago village south of Tucson. The evidence of rich gold placers in northern Sonora is indisputable.  Work in them has nearly or quite ceased on account of the Apaches, but the record of their past yield
is enormous.
The facts in reference to the present condition of the
Gila gold mines in Arizona are simply these: At a point
on the Gila River, about twenty miles from its junction
with the Colorado, and in a succession of sand hills, gold
was discovered in September, 1858. The emigrants who
were still on their way stopped, and, the news reaching
California, others came in. I visited the gold mines early
in November, and found about one hundred men and several families. A town called Gila City had already been
laid out, and temporary houses of brush and adobe were
in the course of erection. I examined carefully for myself, and found that several men could afford to pay laborers three dollars per day and their board to work for
them. I saw more than twenty dollars washed out of
eight shovelfuls of dirt, and this in the rudest manner,
and by an unpracticed hand.  I saw several men whom
I knew well would not have been there had they not been
38 
Address before the Geographical Society, 1859. 39
doing well, who told me they had made from $30 to $125
per day each. I purchased about'$300 in gold dust out
of a lot of more than $2000. A portion of this dust is
here, if ally one is curious enough to wish to see it. Several hundred men have come into the mines since I left
Arizona. My letters gave me no reason to suppose the
mines have given out or shown any signs of failure.*
The country at this point is not inviting, and there are
always at any gold diggings men who do not and will
not work, and who, if they can not make a living by gambling, or feeding on some one else, depreciate the couintry. Gold digging is the hardest of all work, and very
precarious in the'richest mines.  A man who is earning
a comfortable subsistence at home should hesitate long
about giving it up for gold hunting. The old discoveries
of gold on the Spanish trail from Utah to California in
1850, the later one in Kansas, at Pike's Peak, and in Arizona, together with the well-known placers of Sonora,
establish conclusively the fact of the existence of gold
throughout a great belt of the continent from north to
south. I am indebted to the Iton. George Bancroft for
a copy of a curious and rare letter, which is not out of
place to mention here. It is dated at Madrid in 1769,
and is addressed to the Duke de Choiseul, minister of
foreign affairs for France, by the French embassador to
the court of Spain. He says:
(Extract'.)
" Madrid, 6 Fevrier, 1769.
"M. Galvbs qui a passe6 dans les Californies, a aussi
mande' qu'elles abondent en mines d'or et d'argent, et que
ces provinces que l'Espagne ne connaissait, pour ainsi
* The promise of gold placers has been fully realized on the Colorado and north of the Gila, although the point of first discovery has been
worked out, or rather deserted for richer districts in 1863 and 1864. 
dire, que de nom, pourront, dans la suite, produire une
augmentation de revenue, fort consid6rable.
"(Signe6),                  OssUN."
Arizona and Sonora.
(Translation.)
" Madrid, Feb. 6th, 1769.
"M. Galves, who has traveled in the Californias, has
also stated that they abound in mines of gold and silver,
and that these provinces that Spain has known, so to
speak, only by name, will be able in the future to produce
a very considerable augmentation of revenue.
"(Signed),                   OSSUN."
The conclusions to be drawn from the facts I have thus
hastily set forth are these: That while Arizona can not
be called an agricultural state, she has a sufficiency of arable land to support a large population; that as a grazing
and pastural region she has unsurpassed advantages; but
her great wealth is found in her inexhaustible mineral
resources. There can be no doubt that if Arizona today did not contain a single acre of arable land, her gold
and silver, her copper, and iron, and lead, would some
day make her one of the wealthiest of the states of the
Union.
Sonora, of which Western Arizona once formed a part,
is so closely connected in interest with Arizona that a
brief mention of her resources and condition is necessary
to my subject.
Sonora is bounded on the north by Arizona, on the east
by the Sierra Madre range of mountains, which separate
it from Chihuahua, on the south by the River Fuerte,
which separates it from Sinaloa, and on the west by the
Gulf of California and the Colorado River, which separate it from Lower California. Its capital is now Hermo
40 
Address before the Geographical Society, 1859. 41
sillo, was formerly Ures,* and, more anciently, Arizpe.
This state is at present virtually independent. The government is vested in a governor, elected by the people,
and a Legislature, consisting of but one house. Some
years past the property owners looked forward to annexation to the United States as an inevitable event.  The
civil war has put an end to these ideas, and peace having
been established at home, Sonora looks to herself, with
the incidental help given by foreign capital and emigration, for her regeneration and future greatness. That
this reliance is well founded, the vast improvement in the
past year is a sure indication.
In the preliminary advertisement to Las Xoticias Estadisticcas de Sonora, by Don Jos6 F. Velasco, a work
from which I have freely quoted, the author says:
"It is necessary to say, without equivocation, that if
there be any state among those which compose the Republic of Mexico of which it is difficult to present exact
statistics, that state is undoubtedly Sonora. Populated
by an indigenous people, disseminated over the whole
state, without laws or politics, and mingled with the nation of which it forms a part, it is very difficult to ascertain its numbers from its chiefs. It is for this reason
that I have been only able to give approximately the
number of inhabitants. I have only undertaken a work
that at least approximates toward the truth, limiting myself to certain notices which may give light to other
writers on the same subject."
The state of Sonora, thus called by its earliest people
of whom we have any knowledge, derives its name, according to the best authorities, from Sonot, an Opata Indian word, which means Senora, or Madam.  The Conquistadores were treated with great hospitality by the
Opata Indians while visiting their rancherias or villages.
* The capital is again fixed at Ures.
I 
Arizoina and Sonora.
As a mark of friendship, the Indians strove to imitate the
Spanish pronunciation Senora, instead of using their own
word Senot, firom which arose the corrupted word Sonora.  Sonora has been divided, by various writers, into
Upper and Lower Sonora-into Pimeria Alta and Pimerla Baja; and still farther into the subdivisions of Arizpe,
Cieneguilla, and Hiorcasitas in the north, with Hostimuri,
Alamos, and the Pueblas of the Mayo and Yaqui in the
south.  The state formerly included Sinaloa, from which
it was separated in 1830. It is said to be a part of the
plan of the present governor, Pesqueira, to again unite
these states as the basis of a new confederacy.*
The people of Sonora are generally docile, and, making
allowance for the bad system of government and the
great misery in which they are found, are obedient to the
constituted authorities: in fact, this remarkable docility
amounts to weakness of character, and which ambitious
revolutionary chiefs have taken advantage of to forward
their own views. For many years there has been much
suffering from revolutions and Indian depredations, and
without hope, until now, for the better, it is not surprising that the Sonoranese lost his energy of character. He
gambled to divert himself and pass away time, and, without hope for the future, he allowed things to take their
course - a perfect fatalist.  Some become desperate, and
take unlawful measures to better thieir condition. It is
an unquestionable fact that the association with Americans, regular labor and assured employment, dependent
upon good behavior, is fast regenerating the Sonoranese.
The miners and farm laborers show great ambition to
emulate the work of an American, and to prove that they
can do as much in the same time. It only requires a
skillful hand and a good government to make the shift
* Not confirmed. A close alliance, however, exists between the
governments of the two states.
42 
Address before the Geographical Society, 1859. 43
less Sonoranese of the present day a useful member of
society.  Comparatively few educated men are found in
Sonora-a common education consisting of reading and,,
writing, and I believe that in the whole population it does
not exceed ten per cent. more, particularly in the frontier
towns. A leading trait in their character is hospitality,
and "let the morrow take care of itself" is a common
expression in their mouths.  He will share his last mouthful, and considers it a matter of course for the stranger
to take his place at his board.  The women are kindhearted, obedient to their husbands, who rule them generally with a rod of iron.  "Strong-minded" women are
not known, and usually peace reigns in their homes.
Sonora, for the most part, is mountainous, watered by
several small rivers, abundant in mineral wealth; in fact,
is considered to be one of the richest states of the MAexican dominion. There is a sufficiency of agricultural
land to maintain a large population; but the true richness of Sonora consists in its mines of silver and gold,
and the great facilities for raising stock. The mines at
present are but little worked, owing to the Apaches and
revolutions; but, laboring under all these disadvantages,
she is still able to export annually several millions of dollars in silver bars and gold dust, large quantities of stock
to California and the Territory of Arizona; also flour to
the adjoining state of Sinaloa.
The most famous mines and mining districts (minerals)
are those of Alamos, situated in the district of that name,
and property of the Almadas, Gomez y Urreas; mine of
Subiate, near HIermosillo, property of the Monteverdes;
"mineral" of San Xavier, San Marcial, St. Teresa de Jesus,
property of Ynigo, Cubillas & Co.; the famous mine or
mineral of Babacanora, at present worked by a French
company; mine of Baramachi, the richest mine discover ed within the last two years, having yielded $1000 to the 
Arizona and Sonora.
nine hundred weight of ore and very abundant in ore at present the yield is not so great; mine of Corral Viejo,
gold, silver, and lead; La Cananea, silver, copper, and
lead; La Guachuca; las Planchas de Plata.*
On the opposite side of the mountain of Babacanora,
at the distance of about a league and a half, is found the
Real del Carmen, celebrated for its great mine of that
name, and which has been worked to a great extent. It
still yields a good profit to the " Gambussino," a sort of
mining filibuster, who works regardless of the future of the
mine. Ores are still found which yield from ten to twen ty marcs to the carga. The ores are native silver, aurif erous silver, gangue, quartz. This mine was worked in
the first years of the Spanish conquest of Mexico by IHer nan Cortez, in later years by a company of Spaniards,
who found a chart and description of the mines in the archives of Mexico. It is remembered by the oldest inhabitant of Sinoquipe that native silver, six inches wide, was
cut out of the vein and melted in the refining furnace
without more treatment than a lead bath. This company,
owing to the changes which took place in the Mexican
territory, stopped work, carrying off with them several
trains of mules loaded with silver; the mine then partly
filled with water, and the gambussinos, who have been
and are the cause of the destruction of so many good
mines, commenced operations, cutting out the upper pillars and supports, and in a short time the mine fell in,
leaving treasure to an enormous amount buried in the
ruins; in later days shafts have been sunk on the same
lode, worked, and ores rich in silver have been encountered, paying from fifteen to twenty marcs to the nine cwt.
In the rubbish which was thrown out of the old mine, a
comfortable subsistence is gained by washing in bateas * See a subsequent chapter for a full description of several Sonora
mines.
44
i 
Address before the Geographical Society, 1859. 45
quantities of grain silver being found which, refined in
the furnace, yield from twenty-fiye to thirty per cent.
pure metal. This, and several other mines of Sonora,
have been abandoned, not from the ores having failed or
depreciated in value, but from the want of energy in the
Mexican race. The mines in the hands of the Spaniards
yielded enormous profits to the miner; they were men
of indomitable enterprise, who employed capital, science,
and spared no expense to succeed in their adventures;
whereas the Mexican is poor, without energy, and too
lazy to trust or help himself. Formerly, Sonora the rich
was a proverb; now, Sonora the poor is a stubborn fact
-but not from the want of the elements of richness.
These once developed, she will once more become Sonora
the rich, and may be great.
"In the Real of Babacanora," writes John Denton Hall,
Esq., to whom I make grateful acknowledgments for many
of the facts connected with Sonora, " a miner is enchant ed, and his hopes raised by seeing the beautiful formation
which the whole district presents, more particularly that
portion which comprises the' Sierra del Oregano,' which,
viewed from the houses, presents a magnificent spectacle.
My poor pen can not do it justice, so I shall content my self in stating a few facts concerning it which came to
my knowledge: Veins of ore rich in silver are known to
exist, from the fact of ore being found in several parts of
the mountain. Many capitals have been invested and
lost in speculations utterly worthless; whereas a small
one, invested in making a good search and prospect of this
mountain, would not be lost. This statement I make aft er many years mining experience; myself and many oth  er miners who know the mountain will stake our credit
on many tons of precious metal being hid in its interior.
The formation clay state-the richest in Sonora-the fact
of rich ore having been found on its sides and ravines, 
Arizona and Sonoria.
and the number of rich mines in the vicinity, all lead me
to suppose such to be the case.  The mines on mines of
E1 Oregano must wait until some adventurous miner will
expend a thousand or two to enrich himself with mil lions.
"MIention has been made of an ancient population.
On making particular inquiries respecting them, I find
that they are common in all parts of the Sonora River,
and even on the River Gila. The River Sonora, from its
length, quantity of water, and abundance of cultivable
land, is peculiarly adapted to maintain a large population.
Many of the ruins are of great extent, covering whole table-lands, proving that in former times Sonora was much
more thickly peopled than at present.  Undoubtedly some
regularity was observed in laying out these towns. In
one I found what appeared to have been a fort; by its
position it was well calculated for defense.  Unfortunately, no documents exist from which dates could be taken,
the archives, and all belonging to the mission, having been
destroyed at the time the Jesuits were expelled. It is a
known fact here, and I believe in many other countries,
that the order of Jesuits have done more toward civilization among the Indians than any other religious order in
existence. It is undoubtedly the case in Sonora; the
ruins they have left behind them prove that they were
equal to the task they undertook; and among the old
people their kindness and wisdom are still remembered
and talked of.    *    *    *    *    *
"The tradition is current here, and in all parts of the
Opata nation, that the great Montezuma was the chief of
their tribe, and a great warrior. After subjecting the
other tribes to his rule, he determined on building himself
a city to live in on the River Gila-in Casas Blancas.  lHe
commenced operations: not liking the situation, or being
somewhat disturbed in his work by the Apaches' the
46 
Address before the Geographical Society, 1859.  47
only tribe which had not submitted to his rule, joined to
the bad omens observed by the priests - he determined
to travel in search of a good location, favored by his gods.
At the time of commencing his new journey, an eagle
was observed to be hovering over the camp; orders were
given to observe the bird's flight, and its resting-place
ascertained; his commands were obeyed implicitly, and
the ea,gle was found in the Lake of Mexico, perched on
an op)al, with a rattlesnake in its beak.  Hiere Montezuma
founded thie city of AMexico, which would have remained
in his possession up to the present date if Hernan Cortez
and his gallant adventurers had not disturbed his calculations in a most important manner. Such is the tradition,
and it is considered heresy among the Opatas not to believe it. Eagle, snake, and opal is the escutcheon of Mexico. Snake alone would be more appropriate.
"Humboldt mentions in his travels having seen the 
ruins of Casa Blanca, on the River Gila. Another tradition is current also of Montezuma having told the conquerors of Mexico that it would be an easy matter for
them to subject to their rule the whole of the Indian
tribes, but the Apaches never.  We shall see what Uncle
Sam can do with them in a short time."
The yield of the silver mines of Mexico, as compared
by Ward and Humboldt from the actual official returns
to the government, from the conquest to 1803, amounts
to the enormous sum of $2,027,855,000, or more than
TWO BILLIONS of dollars!  Again, Ward says: "I am
aware that many of the statements in this and the pre ceding books respecting the mineral riches of the north
of New Spain (Sonora, including the Gadsden Purchase,
Chihuahua, and Durango) will be thought exaggerated.
They are not so. They will be confirmed by every fu ture report; and in after years, the public, familiarized
with facts which are only questioned because they are 
Arizona and Sonora.
new, will wonder at its present incredulity, and regret
the loss of advantages which may not always be within
its reach."
Gold dust has been found in abundance in the placers
of San Francisco la Cienga, Las Llanos, Ouisabaquita, St.
Perfecto; and Soni is famous for its gold mines, also Co cuspera and Baba Seco; in the district of the Pueblo of
Cucurpe gold is found in abundance; during the rainy
season in Baquachi, district of Arizpe, it is also found in
quantities which pay well. In a word, Sonora, considered in a mineral point of view, equals, if not surpasses, the
richest country in the known world, and only requires
capital, peace, and a liberal government. The new Territory of Arizona, which formerly belonged to this state,
is considered by the Sonoranese to be the richest portion
of their country.
The climate is good. The rainy season sets in in June,
and lasts till the beginning of September; from this month
until March occasional showers fall.  The cold is never
severe, the weather being very similar to that in California in the same months. From March until the rain sets
in in June is considered the dry season. The heats are
never oppressive-less so than in California. Two crops
are raised from off the same land in the year, and which
for abundance can not be surpassed in any countrywheat, maize, beans, peas, etc., being the general grain
that is cultivated. Sugar-cane is planted in great quantities in HIermosillo, San Miguel, Ures, Rayon, Oposura,
Saguaripa, Huepaca, and the Rio Yaqui. A coarse kind
of sugar is made called panocha, which yields to the cultivator an excellent return for his labor, generally selling
at $25 the cargo of three hundred weight. In all parts
of the state most excellent tobacco is raised. Cotton is
sown by the Indians on the Rio Yaqui, and the grub (cotton worm) is hardly known in the crops. The average
48 
Address before the Geographical Society, 1859.  49
price of wheat is eight dollars the cargo of three hundred
weight, beans and peas six dollars.
The state is divided into nine districts, each being governed by a prefect, who is appointed by the governor, and
is responsible for the good conduct of his district. The
port of Guaymas at present is the only port of entry.*
It is a small, but, in the business part, a well-built town,
containing about six thousand inhabitants. The harbor
of Guaymas is the best on the Pacific coast. Four miles
long, with an inner and outer bay, it will admit ships of
the heaviest tonnage, and the commerce of the world
could be transacted at this port.  The entrance is protected by a long island, which makes it doubly secure.t'
The principal rivers of Sonora are the Fuerte, the Yaqui, the Mayo, and the Sonora. The Yaqui enters the
Gulf of California eighteen miles below Guaymas. It has
a dangerous bar, but it is believed to be navigable for
light-draft steamers to Buena Vista,n eighty miles from
* Libertad, in latitude 29~ 53' N., has recently been opened.
t The following letter is from the head of the well-known mercantile house of Juan A. Robinson, of Guaymas, Sonora, San Francisco,
and other points. It is proper to say that the actual export is nearer
five millions than three, a large amount of bullion being exported
yearly without going through the custom-house. The trade of Mazatlan is nearer twelve millions than nine.
- Guaymas, October 12, 1858.
"DEAR Sm,-In reply to your inquiries regarding the trade of this
port, I would observe, the merchandise principally consumed is from
England direct, and occasionally from the United States, including
goods from the European continent and the East Indies. The amount
of imports may be calculated at about three millions per annum of foreign goods, besides a considerable amount of the different manufactures
of this republic. Returns are made in gold and silver bullion. And,
lastly, wheat and hides [the exports of the former] may be calculated
at three millions per annum, and say half a million of the other articles, including copper. Our trade is evidently on the increase. Regarding Mazatlan, from personal observation I should judge that the
business done there is about three times more than that of this port,
their exports being in coined silver and gold, Brazil wood and hides,
principally. I remain, dear sir, in haste, your obedient servant,
"JUAN A. ROBINSON.
" Hon. Sylvester Mowry, Delegate from Arizona."
t Doubtful.-S. M.
C 
Arizona and Sonora.
its mouth. The Sonora River flows through the Arizpe
valley, which is called the garden of Sonora. It is almost
wholly in the hands of the Apaches. The desolation of
the depopulated towns and ranches is melancholy beyond
description. The valleys of the Yaqui, Mayo, and Fuerte are the best sugar-lands in the world.
Ures is a small city of about seven thousand inhabitants, and is situated about sixty leagues from Guaymas.
HIermosillo is the largest city, containing from fourteen
to fifteen thousand inhabitants. It is the centre of commerce.  It is one hundred and ten miles north of Guaymas.* The next in size and importance is Real de Alamos, situated on the frontiers of Sinaloa: it contains from
five to six thousand inhabitants; it is the centre of a large
mining district, as its name implies-Real meaning town
or city of mines. Oposura, Saguaripa, Rayon, St. Miguel,
and Arispe, the ancient capital of Sonora, are large towns,
with populations of from four to five thousand each. The
entire population of Sonora does not exceed one hundred
and thirty-five thousand, comprising Mexicans (jente cde
razon), Opatas, Yaquis, Mayos, Taumales, and Papagos:
this population, instead of increasing, is decreasing-the
Apaches, revolutions, and emigrations to California and
Arizona producing this effect; and in a few years, if some
change does not take place, Sonora will become depopulated. Mr. Hall, the firiend to whom I am indebted for
many of these notes, says:
"After so many years' residence among them, I naturally feel an interest in their welfare, firmly believing that
the grain of gold in their character among so much dross
is worthy of seeking out, and will repay the finders. The
* A mint has been established at Hermosillo, which is in successful
operation, having all the modern mechanical appliances for coining
gold, silver, and copper. The right to coin is a monopoly in the hands
of capitalists. The present superintendent is Mr. Symonds, an English
subject, assisted by Mr. Bowring and Mr. Monteverde.
50 
Address before the Geographical Society, 1859. 51
United States could do it, and would to God it should be
so; and I and many others will be found ready to cooperate in any just an4 honest mode of bringing round a
mutual good understanding...... But one conclusion
can be drawn of the State of Sonora, and that is, in order
to redeem to the Sonoranese his character, life, and fortune, it is necessary to subject or utterly annihilate the
savage Apache, who has served as the destroying angel
to this fine country. It is the most sure and ready way
to gain the eternal gratitude and friendship of the people, and annexation of one of the richest countries in
the known world, which will also serve as another connecting link of the great chain of commerce with the Indies."
Velasco says, in concluding his review of Sonora and
the Sonoranese:
"In truth this is a most sorrowful scene; it horrors
one to consider the state of prostration which we are
now in, by the continued bad feeling of party, which
keeps us savage in civil war, and all the while forgetting
our own interests. For parties to harass each other mutually; for brother to slaughter brother to satisfy revenge, etc., in a moment, are formed enthusiastic masses;
but the same does not happen when the common enemy
is to be punished, who are now with gigantic strides de stroying the country. Until the Sonoranese shall know
that as long as they do not bury in the fold of their coun try, and each one give a brotherly embrace in good faith,
we shall continue to be the plaything of passions the
most strong and savage."
Having had considerable practical experience on the
plains, four journeys overland across the continent in the
past four years,* I was desirous of stating a few facts,
showing the comparative merits of the different routes
* Since doubled. 
Arizona and Sonora.
for a Pacific railroad. The limits of this address will notpermit, and I therefore turn from the subject, with the
prediction that the route known as the Southern, along
the 32d parallel, is the only one that will be built in this
generation.* Every exploration has shown it to be not
only the most practicable, but probably the only practicable route. The advocates of this route point to the
significant fact that the mail from San Antonio to San
Diego has never once failed in eighteen months of operation, winter or summer.  The Great Overland Mail makes
its best time on the 32d parallel, and that portion of the
route denounced as the worst, from El Paso west, has
proved itself the best. Thirteen hundred miles by stage
in December or January in less than eight days. Is there
any other route on the continent where this can be accomplished? Not on the Salt Lake route. It is wholly
impracticable. Not on the Albuquerque route, else Lieutenant Beale would not go into winter quarters. On the
32d parallel no winter quarters are necessary. It is useless to attempt to evade this question of climate on so extended a route. In addition, the 32d parallel is by far
the most level, and has the most water at all seasons of
the year. (See Lieutenant Parke's Report.) The first
terminus of the Pacific railroad will be Guaymas, on the
Gulf of California.  From El Paso to Guaymas the distance is only about four hundred miles-at most four
hundred and fifty. It will run across the Guzman valley
through the Guadalupe or some more southern pass to
Arizpe, thence to Ures, thence to HIermosillo, thence to
Guaymas. It can be built most, if not all the way, for
$10,000 per mile, and put in running condition. It would
pay to-day between Hermosillo and Guaymas in freight
alone. It will traverse a rich agricultural and mining
country, and can connect with San Francisco and all the
* See Speech of Jefferson Davis in a subsequent chapter.
52 
Address before the Geographical Society,,1859.  53
Pacific by steamers. A branch from Arizona down the
valley of the San Ignacio would give Arizona the outlet
she so much desires for her productions. It connects
with the Texas road at E1 Paso, and, notwithstanding all
the predictions to the contrary, the Texas road will be
built. Should it be deemed desirable to extend at once
to the Pacific, a steam ferry across the Gulf of California,
and short railroad across Lower California to a roadstead
on the Pacific, accomplishes the desired end. If these
views were elaborated, they could be supported by an
array of evidence not to be overthrown.
In a report made to the Viceroy of Spain during the
early settlement of the province of Arizona and Sonora
is found the following words: "A scientific exploration
of Sonora, with reference to mineralogy, along with the
introduction of families, will lead to a discovery of gold
and silver so marvelous, that the result will be such as
has never yet been seen in the world." The Spanish race
have but just touched these treasures. It remains for
the American people to make good the prediction. With
the organization of Arizona and the acquisition of Sonora,
a new impetus will be given to the Pacific. The Mexican
population will recede before the energy of American career. At Guaymas a city will go up which shall have no
parallel in the magic of her increase except San Francisco.  The auri sacra fames is as strong to-day as in the
days of old. Allured by the story of the new E1 Dorado which is just opening, tens of thousands of emigrants
will hurry thither. Our empire on the Pacific is just
founded. Its growth in the future will equal that of the
past, if the United States seizes the golden opportunity
now offering. The wealthiest and most delightful of
countries will be redeemed from the barbarism into which
it is so fast falling. An immense market will be opened
for northern productions; commerce will again be stim
10 
Arizona ancd Sonora.
ulated as it was by California; and the predictions of
Humboldt, that the balance between gold and silver
would one day be restored, will be made good from the
treasures of Arizona and Sonora.
U
54 
Conzdition of Arizon'a from 1859 to 1864.
CHAPTER II.
CONDITION OF ARIZONA FROM 1859 TO 1864.
Rapid Advance of Arizona.-Reverses.-Withdrawal of the Overland
Mail.-Ravages of the Apaches.-Mining Discoveries.-The Heint zelman and other Mines.- The Military Position.-The Mowry Sil  ver Miies.-Arrest of the Proprietor. —His Release.-The Mines
worked on Government Account.-The Apaches, and how to deal
with them.-General Garleton.-Arizona in 1864.-Progress of the
Mines.-The Mowry Mines.-Mr. Kiistel's Report.-The Bounda  ries and Organization of the Territory.
TnE history of Arizona since 1859 has two aspectsone of great and steady improvement, the other of calamity and decline. The first was the natural result of the
development of the great natural resources of the Territory; the second of fortuitous circumstances, and the
shameful abandonment and neglect of the country by the
administration at Washington. The uninterrupted success of the Great Overland Mail brought in its train a
constantly increasing immigration. The valleys of the
Santa Cruz, Sonoita, San Pedro, and Mimbres were rapidly filling up with farmers, while on the Gila many thousand dollars were expended in taking out acequias, and
redeeming the rich bottom lands at available points.
The Federal Government promised protection, and did, in
fact, establish new military posts to protect the infant
settlement. These posts, however, were poorly garrisoned. The troops were mostly infantry-almost useless to
pursue or punish the Apaches. The small cavalry force
in the Territory, although most ably handled by Captain
R. S. Ewell, First Dragoons, United States Army  (since
MIajor General Ewell of the Confederate Army), was en
55 
Arizona and Sonora.
tirely unable to make a campaign with decisive results
against the Indians. In spite of this serious drawback
new mines were opened, capital obtained in the East for
their development; the farmers flourished and built per manent improvements, and each year showed a decided
advance upon the last.
The change came suddenly and without warning. The
Overland Mail was withdrawn, then the troops, and the
settlements in the valleys above-named succumbed almost
at once to the attacks of the Apaches. Many lives were
lost; property of all description was abandoned; crops to
an enormous amount were Ieft standing in the fields,
never to be gathered. Never was desolation so sudden,
so complete. In my late journey from Tucson to Guaymas, I passed over one hundred and fifty miles of beautiful country, studded with ranches and farms, where at
every step were found comfortable houses, out-buildings,
fences, and tilled fields utterly abandoned and tenantless.
The mining interest suffered at the same time.  Partly
through the cowardice of agents and superintendents,
partly through the fault of Eastern directors, the various
silver mines in Central Arizona were temporarily abandoned, and I was left with a handful of men who were
willing to share my fortune, and, if Fate so willed it, be
the last Americans in the Territory to fall by the lance
or arrow of the Apache. We not only survived, but we
built up a great work in the heart of the country; thoroughly demonstrated the great value of the mines; and,
what is more and better, proved conclusively that the
Apaches are no obstacle to working in the Territory,
compared to the great result to be accomplished. It is
sufficient proof of this that I did not lose two hours'
work in ten months on account of the Indians. Some
valuable lives were lost, but it was by recklessly disregarding my repeated injunctions and directions.
56 
Condition of Arizona-from 1859 to 1864.
The Territory has been occupied by Confederate troops,
but in small force, except on the Rio Grande. After
their retreat before the forces of General Canby - not
General Carleton, as is falsely stated-Arizona was occupied, and remained in the possession of the California Volunteers.
The gold fields on the Gila River, alluded to as a new
discovery in my address, proved limited in extent; and
although worked mostly by Mexicans for several years
with a large yield of gold, were deserted about a year
ago for the more attractive placers of the Colorado. It
is said that an enterprise is on foot, under the auspices of
well-known business men, to bring water from the Gila
on to this ground by steam power. The result can
scarcely fail to richly reward the authors of the enterprise [1863]. 
At various points along the Colorado, on both sides of
the river, gold has been found capriciously disseminated,
some spots yielding enormously, others nothing. Chimney Peak, eighteen miles from Fort Yuma, was in November and December a favorite locality. La Paz, about
one hundred and eighty miles above Fort Yuma, was
previously a great attraction, and is since. At this point
quite a village had grown up when I visited it in November, 1862. The population was then about eight
hundred, and increasing. No distinct or well-defined
ledges had then been discovered, but the most beautiful
specimens of gold quartz, silver, copper, silver-lead, and
silver and copper I ever saw, had been found, all of which,
upon assay, gave astonishing results. I am informed
since that extensive ledges have been discovered and are
being prospected in this district. Copper has also been
found below La Paz, at different points on and near the
river. Salt has been found near the Colorado in such
large deposits as to guarantee a supply of this very nec                          C2
57 
Arizona and Sonora.
essary aid to the reduction of the refractory silver ores.
Adventurous "prospectors" have penetrated the country
lying between the Gila and Colorado, beyond the Desert
belt, and, making a temporary peace with the Tonto
Apaches, have found on the head waters of the Salinas
and San Francisco Rivers and their small tributaries
good gold prospects, and an abundance of water for
sluicing. All these parties, from whom I have notes of
their explorations, confirm the reports made to me several years since by Weaver, the old "mountain man," and
by Apache and Pimo chiefs, of the existence of rich valleys, heavy timber, and fine pasture-lands north of the
Gila. The country north of La Paz, near the Colorado
on both sides, is at present attracting much attention,
and great discoveries are daily. reported. The navigation of the Colorado by steamers to the vicinity of these
mines must make them very valuable at no distant day.
The mines in Central Arizona, in the Santa Cruz and
Santa Rita Mountains, and near the Sonora line, have been
fully prospected, and no doubt now exists in the minds
of the well-informed of their great value. The Heintzelman Mine, now owned, I believe, almost entirely by
the heirs of Colonel Samuel Colt, is not at present worked, owing, I believe, to the death of Colonel Colt. There
is no doubt of the richness of this mine. It was fully
proved under the management of Mr. Ktistel. Magnificent machinery for the Freyburg barrel-process, with engines of eighty horse power, were sent out from New
York three years since, the whole manufactured under
the personal supervision of Colonel Colt, whose mechanical genius has rarely been surpassed. Jealousy on the
part of Western stockholders, and an insane fear that
Colt would "freeze" them all out, delayed the erection
of this machinery; bad management at the mine, and
other causes, impeded progress until the troops were
58 
Condition of Arizona from 1859 to 11864.
withdrawn from the country, and the last manager for
the company, Mlr. C. D. Poston, turning over his right to
Colt, left for the East. The present superintendent, Colonel F. T. Lally, has, he informs me, opened a new shaft,
in which he has struck very rich metal; but, as above
stated, work is now suspended. During the temporary
abandonment of this mine, the Mexican "gambussinos"
carried away immense quantities of rich metal; and the
village of Saric -just over the Mexican line, where the
ore was reduced-flourished and grew rich upon the folly of the Eastern managers.
The Sopori and Arizona Land and Mining Companies,
who own a vast tract of mineral, grazing, and arable land
in the Santa Cruz valley and vicinity, have also suspend ed operations. Their stolck is held in good hands, and
will be good property.  They intend, I am informed, to
recommence operations at an early day.  Some of the
heaviest Eastern capitalists are the principal owners of
these stocks.
The Santa Rita Company own some valuable mines
north of the town of Tubac. They suspended operations
at a time when success was just in their reach, partly, I
believe, from bad management, and partly from the with drawal of the troops.  They will, I presume, recommence,
now that a large military force occupies the Territory.*
* The separation of Arizona firom the Military Department of California is a great mistake. Under any circumstances, if economy and
time are consulted, army supplies must be drawn from California.
The military posts called Fort M'Lane and Fort Breckenridge were
established by the War Department upon the recommendation of the
writer, while Western Arizona was placed under the control of General Clarke, United States Army, then commanding the Pacific Department. General Clarke did me the honor to consult me on several occasions, and at his request I selected a site for a new military post near
the mouth of the Salinas, a few miles from the Pimos villages. This
post must some day be established. The views of General Clarke
were similar to my own in reference to supplying Arizona from California.
59 
Arizona and Sonora.
Many mines -the San Pedro, San Antonio, Buenavista,
Empire, and others in Central Arizona-have been opened, but want of capital and the condition of the country
have retarded their development.
They will, before long, become permanent and valuable
investments. Near the Mexican line, south of Tucson,
the Cahuabi and Fresnal Mines are being successfully    a
worked by Sefilor Padrez and other Mexicans. The patio  /
process is adopted with good results. A large amount
of silver is taken out monthly. There is a rich field here
for California capital, which must inevitably find its way
there before many months. All the mines above mentioned, except the San Antonio, are of the so-called hard
ores-sulphurets of silver with copper combined.
If a sound judgment prevails at Washington (which may be rationally doubted), Arizona will be again restored to the command of General Wright, in whom the troops, as well as the people, recognize a
true-hearted gentleman and intelligent soldier - qualities they have
failed to discover in the individual now exercising command over the
Territory.
It should be said that the reports of travelers by the Southern Overland Mail, that Arizona is a desert, should be taken cram grano sales.
Almost any man unaccustomed to such a journey, worn out with fatigue and want of sleep, would imagine himself in Hell even if passing
through Paradise.  It would be about as fair to judge California from
San Bernardino and San Diego counties, as to judge Arizona from
the country west of Tucson. The letters from the California Column,
published in several of the California newspapers, are mostly written
to inflate some balloon reputation that will get a'woful collapse some
day, or to accomplish some private end (for example, the shameful attack upon General Canby, a most able, patriotic soldier and gentleman). They are certainly not intended to enlighten the public.
There is no necessity to assert what is deliberately false about the
country'in order to compliment the march of the California Volunteers to New Mexico. The march was as good a one as could have
been made under so inefficient a general. The men are entitled to
great credit, as much for their patient endurance of uncalled-for, unmilitary, and arduous labors, as for their march.
Under a competent commander, the march could have been made
in better time, and with far greater ease to the men. Under one who
had any regard for the truth, the commander-in-chief and the public
would have had the facts in connection with it, and not a romance
which is worthy a place in a new edition of Munchausen.-S. M.,
1863.
60 
Condition of Arizona from 1859 to 1864.
In the Santa Cruz Mountains, about eighty miles east
of Tucson, is an immense deposit of silver-lead ores, argentiferous galena, of extraordinary richness. The sulphurets of lead and silver, mingled with the carbonates,
give results previously unheard of by mineralogists.
The only portion of this district yet largely developed
is the "Mowry Silver Mines," the property of the writer.
The main shaft of these mines has been sunk to the
depth of more than two hundred feet, with galleries and
auxiliary shafts a thousand feet more. Prospecting
shafts have been sunk at various places, and tunnels
opened along the lead, on the property of the writer
(twenty-six hundred feet in extent), in all of which paying ores have been "struck" at from ten to one hundred
feet from the surface. About $200,000 has been expended in the purchase of these mines, erection of reduction
works, houses for laborers, and every thing necessary
for an extensive and permanent establishment, including
steam-engine and mill.  Under exceedingly adverse circumstances, in a country abandoned except by my own
people, the mines were thoroughly opened, and a large
quantity of ore reduced.  It was my intention to have
used only the reverberatory* process for the reduction
of my ores, but, on account of the long continuance of the
rainy season of 1861, I was forced to begin with the Ornos Castellafios (the common upright German or Mexican blast furnace), exceedingly simple in construction,
and requiring but little skill or science to work. Several
months' experience with these furnaces has convinced
me of the great waste in silver resulting from their use,
although the working proved remunerative beyond my
expectation. I am satisfied that the loss in silver is,
* Later experience has proved conclusively that an improved blastfurnace is the best for reducing ores similar to those of the Mowry
Mines. The reverberatory furnaces proved a failure. 1864.
61 
Arizona and Sonora.
under the best circumstances, at least twenty-five per
cent., and generally more, owing to careless attendance
and the inability to regulate the heat or the blast. The
fault was in the construction of the furnaces, not in the
principle. There are twelve of these furnaces at the reduction works, six of which are run alternate weeks.
The yield is of course lead and silver, which is shipped
to Europe in bars weighing about seventy pounds each.
These bars sell in England at from $200 per ton upward,
giving a clear profit over all expenses-mining, smelting,
freight, insurance, and commissions- of over $100 per
ton. A portion of these bars are refined at the mines in
the English cupel furnace (the Mexican vaso), to supply
silver for the payment of current expenses. The silver
is moulded into bars, from $2 up to $300, and is a ready
and convenient circulating medium in a country whei'e
coin exists only in the memory of some individual who
has been in California. Twenty-five tons of the Mowry
ores were sent to Europe as specimens in 1862. The
result was an offer of ~50 sterling ($250) per ton for the
ore as it ran, properly cleaned. The results to be obtained from these ores treated by the improved furnace
are much greater than by the present method.
In June, 1862, the proprietor of the Mowry Silver
Mines was seized by a large armed force, under the orders of General J. H. Carleton, while in the legitimate
pursuit of his business, and retained as a political prisoner for nearly six months. This seizure was made upon a
false, ridiculous, and malicious charge. After nearly six
months' close imprisonment the writer was discharged,
"there being no evidence" (in the opinion of the court
which tried his case), "either oral or documnentary,
aycgainst him;" a charming commentary upon the constitutional guarantee to every citizen of "life, property, and
the pursuit of happiness." The mines were placed in the
62
i 
Condition of Arizonafrom 1859 to 1864.
hands of a dishonest and imcompetent man as government receiver, who did much damage, caused great loss,
and finally, on being obliged to give up his place, made
away with nearly all the goods, wood, coal, arms, and
stores at the mines. No improvements were made during this person's administration, and the property now
being held by the Federal Government, under pretense of
the -Confiscation Act,  none can  be  made  by  the owner
until his property is restored to his possession. This
will undoubtedly be done as soon as the authorities at
Washington can be heard from, as the seizure was illegal,
and dictated by personal hostility on the part of General
Carleton.*
* The following is an extract from the Journal of the Senate of the
United States, June 13, 1864:
"The President pro tearipore presented a message firom the Secretary of War, covering a report of the Adjutant General, in reply to
the resolution of the Senate of May 20, 1864, relating to the seizure
of the silver mine of Sylvester Mowry, in Arizona, by order of General Carleton, commander in New Mexico, and asking by what authority the mine is now worked, and what disposition is made of the proceeds.
"The Adjutant General relates the fact of the arrest of Mr. Mowry,
under order of General Carleton, on the 8th of June, 1862, on a charge
of treasonable complicities with the rebels, and in view of a circular issued by Brigadier General Wright, commanding the Department of
the Pacific, declaring all property of enemies of the United States subject to confiscation. The property of Mowry was also seized, and a
board of investigation appointed by General Carleton reported it as
their opinion that he had given aid and comfort to the enemy, and
that there was sufficient reason to restrain him of his liberty, and
bring him to trial before a military commission. Mowry was then
confined, July 2d, in Fort Yuma, California, awaiting trial; but on
November 4, 1862, was unconditionally released, under orders from
our War Department, Judge Turner directing the commander of the
fort to investigate the cause, and retain or release the prisoner as
might appear right. There being no evidence before the board, he
was released accordingly. Since then Mowry has issued notice to the
United States -District Attorney for New Mexico and to the United
States Marshal, alleging illegal seizure of his property, and, on the
12th of December, 1863, filed in the Fourth Judicial District of California a complaint against General Carleton and the officers who acted
under his orders in the seizure. It is inferred, therefore, that the property has passed from the military to the civil authority; and as to by
what authority the mine is being worked, or what disposition is made
63 
Arizona and Sonora.
The yield of the mines with the present furnaces, when
all are in operation, is about 84500 per week of silver,
refined at the mines. The refuse from the refining fulrnaces, litharge, is sold in Sonora, to be used as a flux at
such mines as the Bronces, Cruzecitas, Mina Prieta, and
others containing refractory ores. It is correctly estimated that the sale of the litharge will pay all the expenses of the mines. As soon as the property is restored
by the government to its rightful owner, a number of
improved blast furnaces will be erected, and the mines
will be made to pay at once $2000 per day.  The supply
of ore is immense, easily mined and brought to the surface, daily growing more abundant and richer.  I have
been thus specific in the description of these mines to
give a clear idea to those who seek investment in mines
of the great value of the Santa Cruz district of Arizona.
A new mine, called the "Olive," has been discovered,
and opened to a considerable depth near the Mowry
Mines. It is of the same character, and probably the
same lead as that of the Mowry Mines. It is owned by
the discoverers, three of my workmen. A controlling
interest has been or will be purchased by capitalists here,
and by Captain C. E. Mowry. La Esperanza, five and a
half miles from the Mowry Mines, almost on the Sonora
line, has been opened sufficiently to demonstrate the existence of an extensive lead. There are nine veins cropping out on the surface, which can be tunneled a thousand feet below the cropping. The ores are argentiferous galena, very rich in silver and lead. It is in all respects as valuable a mine as could be desired. It is owned by a company organized here, of "solid men," and
will be immediately worked on a large scale.
of the proceeds, there are no documents on file in the department affording information. The report was ordered to lie upon the table
and be printed."
64
1 
Condition of Arizona from 1859 to 1864.
The experience gained by the works of the Mowry
Mines will enable the Esperanza and other similar ores
to be treated at much less expense, and give large dividends at an early day. It is some consolation to me
that my mistakes, costly as they have been, will be of incalculable benefit to those who are now investing their
capital in Arizona.  Some one had to be the pioneer, and
it was perhaps appropriate that it should fall to my lot,
as I was the first to introduce Arizona as a candidate
for the honors of a new state. The advantage these
mines of lead and silver possess over the more refractory
ores containing copper and sulphurets is the great ease
of reduction.  Fire is the only requisite.  They contain
their own flux. No expensive machinery, quicksilver or
salt, or other foreign flux, is needed, and the lead will pay
all the expense of working, reducing, and shipping, giving the silver clear in the English or San Francisco market, if shipped in the form of lead and silver bars. If refined at the mines, the litharge (greta in Mexican mining
phrase) will pay all expenses above stated. The demand
for litharge is increasing, and there will always be a good
market for it, on account of the working of new mines
in Arizona and Sonora. The Pattinson process of sepa rating lead and silver is cheap and economical of both
metals, but at present will not pay as well as the method
now in use.
In connection with this subject, it is proper to say that
the immense advantage Sonora and Arizona have over
California or Nevada for the development of mineral
wealth is the low price of labor-fifty cents to one dollar
per day, paid in great part in merchandise at large prof its. Transportation is also much less. Those interested
will do well to.inquire particularly into these points, as
well as into the character of the mines.  Both Arizona
and Sonora will bear the most searching scrutiny, and
65 
Arizona and Sonora.
will reward the inquirer. It is as well to say here that
capital in large sums is needed for the successful prosecution of silver mining. This is a condition precedent
which must be fully accepted, but with less capital than
any where else greater results can be obtained in the
countries in question.
In Eastern Arizona, near the head waters of the Mimbres River, gold has been discovered in placers and
quartz.  A town called Pino Alto has been built up, and
at one time over a thousand people worked in the vicinity. With the withdrawal of the troops this district suffered, but still many remained. The late establishment
of a strong military post at this point will assist greatly
in its development. The copper mines of ancient fame in
the Mimbres have fully sustained their old reputation.
Smelting works have been erected, new mines opened,
and the copper in pigs shipped in wagons to Lavaca,
Texas, thence to New York.  The copper sold at higher
rates than the Lake Superior, and paid a handsome profit
to the owners, notwithstanding the great distance it was
transported. These mines, as they have been in the past,
will continue to be a source of large revenue to the proprietors.
The mines in the Organ Mountains, near the  Rio
Grande, are not in operation. The Stevenson, Ilarris,
and others are certainly good mines, and will be made
profitable. In other chapters I give some mining notes,
written by competent persons from actual observation.
The presence of two thousand troops in Arizona, whose
number is soon to be doubled, and the orders lately given,
will prove the death-warrant of the Apaches.  It has
been already stated that their bravest and most dangerous band has been severely punished, with the loss of
their principal chief and many men.  The subordinate
officers of the California Column are eager for the fray,
66
k 
Condition of Arizona from 1859 to 1864.
and are the men worthy of all praise for endurance and
the qualities which make good Indian fighters. I anticipate for Arizona a steady and prosperous career.
The Apaches-these "devils," as they are well called
by the Mexicans-have grown more daring and ferocious
in the past few years.  Emboldened by the shameful nieglect of the general government, they stopped and robbed
the mails, killed travelers, and at last attacked ranchos.
Coining into possession of fire-arms, they grew monthly
bolder, until at length, in 1861, gaining a doubtful victory
over about sixty U. S. troops, commanded by a young,
inexperienced lieutenant, they declared and have since
maintained open war.  The Federal Government has been
begged, entreated, prayed, to do something, but it has
never done it until now.  I think I never saw so many
astonished and angry faces as I did when reading President Lincoln's last annual message to a crowd in Tucson
in January last.  When I finished that portion which refers to the Indian atrocities in Dacotah and Minnesota"What!" said every one, "not one word about Arizona
or the Apaches?  Why, we have lost ten lives where they
have lost one-thousands of dollars where they have lost
hundreds."
The utter neglect by the government of this Territory
is a crime which has brought its own punishment, but we
have had it to bear. General Carleton, now commanding
in Arizona, has a large force at his disposal, and he promises to "clean out" the Apaches root and branch.  He
can do it with the means at his disposal. If he does not,
no punishment is too severe for him. Few commanders
have so good an opportunity to become public benefactors. He has begun badly, and wasted much valuable
time, but he can bravely redeem it.*
* I am sorry to say that General Carleton has gone from bad to worse.
The Apaches have not been subdued, but have committed their worst
outrages under Carleton's weak and cowardly policy.-S. M., 1864.
67 
Arizona and Sonora.
My own success is ample proof that the Apaches are
not a serious obstacle to the working of mines in Arizona.
The danger to be apprehended is on the roads, and this
can be avoided by ordinary caution. In fact, almost every
disaster has been caused by recklessness or utter carelessness in taking precautions dictated by common sense.
Governor Pesqueira, of Sonora, has offered a bounty of
$100 per scalp for Apaches, and a proportionate sum for
animals retaken from them. This should be imitated by
the authorities of Arizona. The Pimos and Papago Indians would be most valuable auxiliaries in the pursuit and
massacre of these' " human wolves." They lately killed
about sixty Apaches and took several prisoners in a single
campaign. The children of the Apaches, when taken
young, make good servants, and are sold by the Pimos in
the Territory and in Sonora.
There is only one way to wage war against the Apaches.
A steady, persistent campaign must be made, following
them to their haunts-hunting them to the " fastnesses of
the mountains." They must be surrounded, starved into
coming in, surprised or inveigled-by white flags, or any
other method, human or divine-and then put to death.
If these ideas shock any weak-minded individual who
thinks himself a philanthropist, I can only say that I pity
without respecting his mistaken sympathy. A man might
as well have sympathy for a rattlesnake or a tiger.
The foregoing paragraphs, with the exception of a few
notes, which are dated, appeared in the second edition of
this work, published in 1863. I append some notices of
the condition of Arizona subsequent to the date of that
edition:
The eastern portion of Arizona, bordering on the Colorado River and thence to the country north of the Pimos
villages on the Gila River, has within the past year re
68 
Condition of Arizona fron?m 1859 to 1864.
ceived large accessions of population. Gold in quantity
is found on the Salinas, the Verde, and other tributaries
of the Gila; and the silver and copper mines of the Colorado region are developing with unparalleled richness.
In Southern Arizona work has been commenced anew
on the Heintzelman Mine, with results which promise to
fulfill all that has been claimed for this noted mine.  The
Santa Rita mines are also again in operation, with abundant capital. The Mowry Silver Mines have produced
about their average amount of silver; and, with the improved furnaces soon to be erected, will largely increase
the yield.
The following is the Report, sent by telegraph, of Guido Kiistel, Metallui'gist and Mining Engineer, upon the
Mowry Silver Mines:
"San Francisco, April 20, 1864.
" The lode, which is over fourteen feet wide, runs east
and west, between limestone and granite-like porphyry.
It consists of sulphurets and carbonates of lead in manganese, often pure, containing iron, frequently in large
chambers. Its great advantage is the presence of iron,
manganese, lime, and lead, so that the necessary fluxes
are in the ore in abundance. The greatest depth worked
is 180 feet. There are four galleries.
"The present style of furnaces and system of purification are more like waste than rational working. Nevertheless, these furnaces paid all expenses, with 120 men
employed.
"The present expense of working six tons per day is
fifteen dollars per ton. There are many thousand tons
of rock out in front of the main shaft, half of which is fit
for melting after very simple concentration.
"Wood is abundant.  Live oak costs one dollar and
seventy-five cents a cord.
"With furnaces four feet square and ten feet high, and
69 
Arizonca and Sonora.
with proper treatment, more silver at less expense could
be extracted. The best ore produces $350, the poorest
$50 per ton.  But, even reckoning mining and reduction
at $20 per ton, facts and calculations show that the nett
profits of one day's work of twenty tons will be $1280."
The Esperanza Mine has been sufficiently opened to demonstrate its great value, and the San Antonio is at work
in a moderate way, giving full promise of proving a mine
of the first class.
The mining interest of this section suffered a great loss
in the death of Mr. J. B. Mills and Mr. Edwin Stevens,
my two most valued assistants, killed by the Apaches.
The imbecile and cowardly policy of the commanding
general of the department* has caused the diminution of
our people, and a delay in again settling the valleys and
opening new mines.
Great credit is due to Francis Hinton, of Arizona City,
Henry Grinnell, Richard Halstead, and J. F. Yaeger, for
their persistent exploration of the Gila and Colorado regions for the precious metals. They deserve to reap a
rich reward.
The Act establishing the Territory of Arizona was approved by the President on the 24th of February, 1863.
Section 1 describes the boundaries as follows: "All that
portion of the present Territory of New Mexico, situated
west of a line running due south from the point where
the southwest corner of the Territory of Colorado joins
the northern boundary of the Territory of New Mexico,
to the southern boundary-line of said Territory of New
* Brigadier General James H. Carleton, United States Volunteers.
It is understood that Arizona is taken from his command and restored
to the department of the Pacific, It has been a matter of great surprise that such a man should so long have been retained. Under the
new commander it is hoped protection will be given, and this portion
of Arizona keep pace with the Colorado region.
7G 
Condition of Arizona from 1859 to 1864.
Mexico be, and the same is hereby erected into a temporary government by the name of the Territory of Arizona."  This section also provides that Congress may at
any time divide the Territory or change the boundaries.
The second section makes provision for the appointment
of Territorial officers, and extends to Arizona all the laws
and enactments of the Territory of New Mexico not inconsistent with the provisions of this act, until they shall
be repealed or amended by future legislation. Section 3
enacts "that there shall neither be slavery nor involuntary servitude in the said Territory otherwise than in
the punishment of crimes, whereof the parties shall have
been duly convicted; and all acts, either of Congress or
of the Territory of New Mexico, establishing, regulating,
or in any way recognizing the relation of master and
slave in said Territory, are hereby repealed."
The Territory thus organized contains a little more
than 120,000 square miles, commencing at a point where
the 109th degree of longitude intersects the 27th degree
of north latitude; thence south on said degree of longitude to the boundary4-line between the United States and
old Mexico; thence west on the said boundary-line to the
boundary-line of southeastern California; thence north on
said boundary-line to the 37th degree of north latitude;
thence east on said parallel of north latitude to the place
of beginning.
The white population of the Territory is roughly estimated at 20,000, but the number is rapidly increasing.
The number of Indians is estimated at from 45,000 to
58,000. About half of these may be set down as friendly to the whites, the other half hostile.
The capital has been located, at least temporarily, at
Fort Whipple.
The following are the officers' of the Territory: Governo, JouN N. GOODWIN, of Maine; Secretary, RICHARD C.
71
I 
Arizona and Sonora.
M'CORMICK, of New York; Chief Justices, WILLIAM T.
HOWELL, of Michigan, and JOSEPH P. ALLYN, of Connecticut; District Attorney, ALMON GAGE, of New York;
Surveyor General, LEVI BASHFORD, of Wisconsin; Marshal, MILTON B. DUFFIELD, of California; Superintendent
osf Indian Affairs, CHARLES D. POSTON, of Kentucky.
72 
. Biertu on the Xines of Arizona.
CHAPTER III.
THE MINES OF ARIZONA. REPORT OF F. BIERTU, METALLURGIST
AND MINING ENGINEER, WRITTEN IN FEBRUARY, 1861.
The Mowry (formerly called the Patagonia) Silver Mines.-The Lodes
and Ores.-Shafts and Tunnels.-Owners.-Management.-Eagle
Mines.-Empire or Montezuma Mine.-Santa Rita Mining Com pany.-Mariposa Mining Company.-Sonora Exploring and Mining
Company.-Cahuabi Mining Company.-Arizona Copper Mining
Company.-Sopori Land and Mining Company.-Arizona Land
and Mining Company.-Colorado River Copper Mines.-Stevenson
Mining Company.-Harris Mine.-St. Augustin Mining Company.
-Coal Mines.-Auriferous Quartz.
PATAGONIA, NOW O310WRY SILVER MINES.
MY visit to the Patagonia Mine, now called Mowry
Silver Mines, has lasted four days-the time necessary to
give it a full examination in all its parts, and to make a
careful assay of its ores. But why was it called the Patagonia Mine?  Is it because it is situated in a desert inhabited only by Indians? Such were the questions I put
to myself while traveling, and which I thought might be
answered affirmatively. Great was my surprise, however, when, instead of finding, as I expected, barren mountains as at Washoe and Mono, I gazed on beautiful landscapes and a country covered with trees of different kinds,
with fertile lands perfectly watered. True it is that the
nearest neighbors, the Apaches, are far from being even
equal to the Patagonians; but this, it seemed to me,
could not'be a reason for giving to such a beautiful spot,
which in spring must be covered with flowers, so savage a name. Mr. Mowry was perfectly right to alter it.
This property, containing about'five hundred acres of
D
73 
Arizona and Sonora.
land, is situated ten miles from parallel 32~ 20' north latitude, which forms the limit between Arizona and Mexico, twenty miles from Fort Buchanan, fourteen from the
town of Santa Cruz, in Sonora, and at an elevation of
6160 feet from the level of the sea; and a good road,
280 miles-in length, and which, with a little repair, might
be made excellent, places it in direct communication with
Guaymas. By this route, freight from San Francisco to
the mine does not go beyond five cents* per pound. The
mine is situated on the last hills forming the eastern slope
of the Sierra de Santa Cruz, and is bounded on the northeast by extensive plains covered by the mesquit and oak
trees, which reach the line of Sonora, whose elevated
mountains rise in the horizon. Between these plains and
the mine is to be seen the Sierra Espuela, called also Wachuka Mountains.
The road leading to the mine from Fort Buchanan
crosses a range of hills and mountains completely covered with oak, pine, sycamore, poplar, willow, and hazlenut.
The land and the hills around the mine are covered with
green oak, cedar, pine, and manzanitas. The whole country abounds with rabbits, quails, and wild turkeys. It is
not a rare occurrence to meet droves of deer and antelopes numbering from twenty-five to thirty. The amateur of more intense excitement may also indulge in bear
and Apache hunting.
About a mile firom the mine, and near a little village
called Commission, of some fifteen houses, intended for
the peons and laborers of the mines, there is a creek, called Commission Creek, which is on the property itself,
whose waters never dry up, and which are more than
sufficient to run one or several mills. The buildings for
residences, and those for stores and furnaces, are half way
* Since reduced to less than four cents. Return freight from the
mines is about two cents.
74 
F. Biertu on the Mines of Arizona.
between the mine and the small village.  Near by there
is a spring of excellent water, which also never dries up.
There are other springs lost in the hills, and which may
easily be turned to some purposes.
The Lodes and Ores.-The principal lode of the Patagonia Mine is composed principally of argentiferous galena, and runs south 85~ E.  Its thickness, which increases
as it dips in the earth-now eighty-three feet in depth-is
of about three feet.* Three small veins, excessively rich,
cross each other in the main vein, all running in different
directions. The size of these small veins varies firom ten
to nineteen inches. Other veins, whose outcroppings are
visible on the top of the hill, and which run in a parallel
direction at a great distance, will, according to all probabilities, be met with as the working of the mine proceeds.
No prospects have as yet been undertaken to ascertain
the nature of these veins. The galena of the principal
vein contains a small quantity of copper and arsenic. It
seemed to me that I detected appearances of zinc, but I
had no means to ascertain the fact. An -assay of the different ores has given results varying from $80 to $706 in
silver per ton, and up to sixty-two per cent. of lead.
Their reduction is of the utmost facility.
The Shafts and T?Gznels.-Unfortunately,f all the operations perfected up to this day are, I might say, useless.
The labor expended on shafts and tunnels has been conducted so carelessly-the different stratas of earth have
been subjected to so little investigation, that while, on
one hand, unnecessary expenses and labor have been incurred, on the other, a quantity of ore, sufficient probably
* Much increased in width and richness at the great depth of over
two hundred feet. The vein often spreads out into chambers of pure
ore of great size, no gangue appearing between the side walls.  Two 
peons have taken out ten tons of rich ore in one day's work.   i< 
+ All this has since been corrected, and the mine worked under the
able direction of a skillful mining engineer, Mr. George Habermann.
75 
Arizona and Sonora.
to pay for the whole expenses of the establishment, has
been thrown aside as worthless. Ores which I have
picked up on the creek, being assayed, have given the
best results that I have obtained.
But the actual owners of the mines are not the ones
who ought to complain of the bad direction of the works,
for, according to my idea, it is principally this bad management which has enabled them to purchase the whole
mine at a comparatively low price. However, it will be
easy to remedy the evil, either by beginning new works
in a more suitable locality, or by modifying those already
existing. The quality of the mine is such as to cover, in
X short space of time, all the expenses which may be incurred in a rational manner.
The discovery of the Patagonia Mine dates only from
the fall of 1858, but it would appear that its existence was
suspected long ago, for the first parcels'of ore gathered
by the Mexicans were taken, at the time of the late discovery; from shafts which had been sunk many years ago,
and which had been abandoned.
The Owvners.-The first owners were Colonel J. W.
Douglass, Captain R. S. Ewell, Lieutenants J. N. Moore,'
Mr. Randal, Mr. Lord, and Mr. Doss - all belonging to
the United States Army excepting the last named individual and Colonel Douglass. These parties started some
preliminary works- sunk shafts, extracted a certain quantity of ore, and built up several furnaces for smelting.
But, being short of capital for a regular system of reduction on a large scale, two of the principal shareholders,
Messrs. Lord and Doss, who had charge of the whole
mine, sold their interest during the year 1858-9 to Mr.
E. Brevoort, who thereupon became superintendent of the
mine and principal owner.
The administration of Mr. Brevoort was not a happy
one. The mine, which, as I have before stated, had been
76
I 
F. Biertu on the Mines of Arizona.
badly opened and badly worked, being turned into inexperienced hands, fared much worse. A certain quantity of
ore was extracted, but, whether the proceeds were expended in useless operations, or for any other purposes, they
were not sufficient to cover the costs incurred. These
failures gave rise to disagreements between the owners,
which could not be settled except by the sale of their
whole interest, which Captain Ewell and his partners
made to Mr. Brevoort this last-named gentleman turning
the interest immediately over to Mr. IH. T. Titus. But
these negotiations did not put a stop to the difficulties,
which were renewed on account of the payment of the
purchase-money. Consequently, the sale of the whole
was resolved upon, and the conveyance took place in the
spring of 1860, in favor of Lieutenant Mowry, all the-interested parties joining in the deed.  The price of the
mine, including the lands surrounding it, all the works
and establishment standing at the time, fixed at $25,000,
was paid in cash by the new owner, who some time after
sold one fifth to a wealthy capitalist in the East.  Henc'four fifths of the Patagonia Mine are now held by Mr.
Mowry, who has given his name to it. In the hands of
the last-named gentleman, and under the direction of Mr.
Charles Mowry, his brother, the works will be started
with unusual activity. Already preparations have been
made to carry on works of a considerable extent, so that
next summer the mine will be in full operation.
The M/anagemnent of the Mine.-The old furnaces having been badly constructed, and being out of use, they
will be replaced by others containing all the later improvements, either for smelting or refining. A steam-engine of
fifteen to twenty horse power will be put up for the trituration of the ores, for the working of the pumps, and to
run a saw-mill. The waters of the creek will be gathered
in large reservoirs, twelve feet in depth, constructed by
77 
Arizona and Sonora.
means of thick embankments. Buildings will be put up
for the accommodation of the superintendent of the mine
and the reducing establishment, and for the engineer and
other employ6s. A laboratory for assays will also be annexed to the works. The ores will be carried from the
mine to the reducing establishment by a railroad, for the
building of which Mr. R. Jones, Jr., has already taken
the preliminary steps. Finally, for the accommodation
of laborers, numbering from seventy to eighty, and of the
inhabitants on the frontiers of Sonora, a large store will
be opened for the sale of all sorts of provisions and merchandise. The expenses to be incurred this year to put
in operation the different projects in view will exceed the
sum of $60,000.
Such is the history of the mine, which I intended to relate to you with details, because within a short space of
time it is called upon to rank among mines of the first
class. Even now, in the neighborhood, by the abundance
and richness of its ores, the facilities for extraction and
reduction, and the conveniences of the locality, it is considered one of the best in Arizona. Its importance would
be greatly increased if a project in which rich capitalists
of the East are actively engaged is put in execution, which
is to build a railroad between Guaymas and E1 Paso, in
Texas, which would connect with the Pacific Railroad.
This road, following the ridge of the Sierra de Santa Cruz,
would run at a distance of only ten miles from Mr. Mowry's mine.
The mine which I have just described is not the only
one to be found in that part of Arizona. The Santa Cruz
Sierra, already renowned since the days of the Jesuits,
who had opened in that locality the Compadre and French
lines, has lately given evidences of new richness. Besides the two which I have just named, the Boundary,
Empire, Eagle, and St. Louis Mining Companies form a
part of tire Sierra.
78 
F. Biertu on the Mines of Arizona.
OTHER MINES.
The Eagle Mine.-This mine is situated to the east of
the MIowry Miine, and its vein, composed of argentiferous
galena, exactly similar to the Mowry MIine, is, it is stated,
its continuation.
The San Pedro Mine.-This mine is situated on the
east side of the San Pedro River, about twenty-five miles
from the Overland Mail road, and half a mile from the
river.
Empire or Montezuma Mine.-I have mentioned above
this mine as forming a part of the Santa Cruz Sierra. It
is half way between the Mowry Mine andcl the town of
Santa Cruz. The ores are composed of lead and silver.
The first owners were Th. Gardner and Hopkins, who, it
seems, sold their interest out to New York companies.
Santa -Rita Mining Comoan,ay.-The Sierra de la Santa Rita, as that of the Santa Cruz, incloses rich deposits
of precious ores. The Cazada, Florida, and Salero Mines
are united in one company, under the above title. The
last one was known a long while ago, and was worked
by the Jesuits. In that one, also, the argentiferous galena dominates. Shortly furnaces will be put up for smelting and reducing; they will be erected on the very
mountains of Santa Rita, which are to the east of Tubac,
at the distance of about ten miles. The superintendent
of the mine is Mr. IH. C. Grosvenor, and Mr. Pompelly is
the engineer. The capital is $1,000,000. These mines
were opened in 1856.
Mariposa Mining Company.-This company is working a copper mine, situated forty miles from Fort Breckenridge, at the junction of the San Pedro and Arrivaypa
Rivers, and from three to four miles south of the Gila.
The road known as the Leach Wagon Road, near by,
renders the transportation of the ores and provisions
79 
Arizona and Sonora.
quite easy.  It is under the direction of Mr. A. B. Gray,
ex-surveyor of the United States, attached to the commission of the Mexican frontiers, and engineer-in-chief of the
Pacific Railroad. Mr. Hopkins is the engineer of the
mines; the house of Soulter, of New York, is the principal owner.
Sonora.xploring and Xizning Comnpany.-This mine,
situated at about thirty miles from Tubac, in the Cerro
Colorado, is one of the principal mines, if not the richest
in the Territory. The company is working the vein
known as the Heintzelman Mine, rich in argentiferous
coppers, and also several other veins on the Rancho Arivaco. The actual and imperfect system of reduction is
by means of amalgamating barrels.  Steam-engines of
forty horse power, with a new process of amalgamation
and refining, will soon be introduced. One of the principal shareholders, Mr. Charles D. Poston, is the director,
and at the same time lessee of the mine for the term of
ten years. This company was incorporated in Cincinnati, Ohio, with a capital of $2,000,000, divided into - 20,000
shares. The sum already expended for the working of
this mine is estimated at $230,000 either in ready cash or
from the proceeds of the mine.
Cahuabi Xining Cornpany.-The mine going by that
name is near meridian 112 and 32 north latitude, in a region inhabited by the Papagos Indians. The argentiferous copper ores are treated according to the Mexican
amalgamatory process known as the patio. I have seen
specimens from this mine in the hands of Mr. Herman
Ehrenberg, president of the company, of extreme richness. The mine was opened since 1859.
Arizona Copper 21zininzg Cornpany.-The bad administration and the difficulties of transportation have been
the main causes why this mine, so rich, and which created
so much excitement in California two or three years ago,
80 
F. Biertu on the MVines of Arizona.
has not given any good results. Its oxides and copper
sulphurets are excessively rich, the extraction exceeding]y easy, and the veins are numerous. Works at this
present moment are suspended. This mine is situated
120 miles southeast from Fort Yuma. It was opened in
1855, and the company was incorporated in San Francisco.
Sopori Land and Mining Company.-The mine of Sopori, opened many years ago, had in Mexico an extensive
reputation. The ores extracted were exceedingly rich
in gold and silver, but the works were so badly carried
on that the vein is lost, and not even any exterior traces
of its position is left. A few arastras in bad condition
are all that is left of the operations there. The mine
forms a part of the Sopori Rancho, of an area of 21,000
acres, situated west of the MIal Pais Sierra, and south of
the Canao Rancho, which are both considered as the best
ranches of Arizona. The Sopori Company is incorporated in Providence, R. I., with a capital of $1,000,000.
Governor Jackson is the president; Lieutenant Mowry,
one of the principal shareholders, is, at the same time,
one of the trustees.
Arizona Land and  glaining Company.-This mine is
situated north of the Rancho of Sopori. This company
owns a large tract of land, of thirty-two leagues square,
on which is situated the old silver mine of San Xavier,
which was worked during the time of the Jesuits, and
which appears exceedingly rich; other veins, equally rich,
are to be found in the centre of the property, on the Sierra Tinaja. The company was incorporated in Provi dence, R. I., with a capital of $2,000,000. The Honorable S. G. Arnold is the president. The treasurer is Mr.
Alfred Anthony, President of the Jackson Bank of Prov idence. Colonel Colt, Lieutenant Mowry, and other rich
capitalists of the East, are the actual owners. Mr. Mow                          D 2
81 
Arizow-a anal So~zora.
ry ls the holder of more than one half of the stock of the
company. N. Richmond Jones, Jr., is the engineer-inchief of this mine, as also of the Sopori Mine.
Colorado River Copper XMine.-About three years ago
a Mr. Halstead, well known on the Colorado districts as
an indefatigable prospector, discovered this mine on the
shiores of the river, at about forty miles from Fort Yuma.
Having been examined and tested by experts firom New
York, they found it to be very extensive and very rich.
Several tons sent to San Francisco last year were also admitted to be of uncommon richness. Consequently, laborers were engaged in Sonora, and preparations made to
work the mine on an extensive scale. Difficulties, however, eventually arose which prevented the completion of
the works. The mine is owned by Messrs. Wilcox, Johnson, and Hartshorn, owners of the steamer navigating the
Colorado, by Mr. Hooper, principal merchant at Fort
Yuma, and by Lieutenant Mowry.
Stevenson XMining Company.- This mine has been
worked during several years by Mr. Stevenson, according
to the Mexican process, and yielded him from $40,000 to
$50,000. Afterward Mr. Stevenson sold his mine to Major Sprague, of the U.S. Army, who organized a company
in New York, to which belong General Clarke, Doctor
Mills, Mr. Russell, ofthe Pony Express and Missouri bonds
notoriety, and several other persons.  The mine appears
to be very rich in silver and lead, but it has been wretchedly administered. The Stevenson Mine is situated on
the Rio Grande, not far from Mesilla.
Harris Mine.-The mine belonging to this company
was discovered several years ago. It was recently purchased by Lieutenant Mowry of Judge Hoppin, Mr. Cuniff,
and Mr. Bull. This mine is also on the Rio Grande, six
miles from the Stevenson Mine. The ore is composed of
lead and silver.
82 
F. Biertu on the Mines of Arizona.
-St. Augustin Mining Company.-This mine is also
situated on the Rio Grande, and the ores are like the
above.
Several other silver veins, supposed to be very rich,
have been discovered on the same river, but have not yet
been worked. All these mines of the Rio Grande are to
be found in the hills at the foot of the Organ Mountains.
Besides silver, copper, and lead mines, coal mines are also
to be found near the Rio Grande in the Organ Mountains,
in Arizona Territory. There are also mines of plumbago
in the Sierra Rita, and some of iron in different localities.
Traces of quicksilver have been found in the Heintzelman Mine, belonging to the Sonora Company, but they
own particularly rich gold placers and veins of auriferous
quartz. The new district of Pino Alto, whose placer diggings were discovered in May last, and which have yielded fine results in gold of a fine quality, is also rich in
quartz veins.
One of the main ones is the one known by the name of
Jackson Quartz Vein, owned by G. A. Oury, of Tucson,
P. T. Herbert, and others. The vein was discovered in
July, 1860, by J. J. Jackson, on Bear Creek, about thirty
miles from the Overland Mail station, onohe Mimbres River, and twenty-five miles from the Gila River. The vein
is two feet in thickness, and promises to become excessively rich. Specimens taken from a depth of ten feet,
and which were handed to me by MIr. Oury, have yielded
more than $600 of pure gold to the ton. The persons
who have visited the Pino Alto District speak of it as a
section of country'exceedingly healthy, well wooded, bnt
quite barren in the summer months. A population of 800
to 1000 souls inhabit already the district and the town
bearing its name. An express, connecting with that of
Wells, Fargo & Co., runs between that town and Mesilla.
Another mine of auriferous quartz, which is stated to
83 
Arizona and Sonora.
be quite rich, was lately discovered ninety miles from
Fort Yuma, on the Colorado.  The owners are Messrs.
Halstead and Yaeger, residents of Fort Yuma.
On  the Mimbres River, ninety miles from the Rio
Grande, are to be found the renowned mines of Santa
Rita del Cobre, worked by Mexicans many years ago,
and well known for their richness. These mines and the
Hanover Copper Mines, situated in the same locality,
were profitably worked a long time ago. The copper,
worked into bars, is sent to New York by way of Port
Lavaca, in Texas. Two new towns, Mowry City and
Burchville, are also built on the Mimbres River.
Auriferous deposits of some importance are also to be
found on the shores of the Gila, not only at its source,
but all along its course. When we passed by Gila City
three weeks ago, nothing was spoken of but the discovery of rich deposits of gold on the river. It was stated
that Mexicans were gathering from ten to fifteen dollars
per day. Besides, at the junction of the Gila and the
Colorado, about 300 Mexicans are constantly at work,
and obtain excellent pay. The greater part of this gold
is forwarded by Mr. Hooper, of Fort Yuma.
The particulars I have just given you, although already
quite lengthy, are far from containing all that might be
stated in regard to the mineral wealth of that Territory;
but I must stop here, as I only intend to give you statements entirely correct.
[To the foregoing I add, that the reports of the eminent metallurgist, Guido Kiistel, who has lately visited
Southern Arizona on a scientific tour, show conclusively
that it is one of the richest silver regions in the known
world. His examination of different mines was thorough, and his opinions are founded upon facts. No one
is more capable of giving sound opinions upon mines and
mining.-S. M., 1864.]
84 
Tlte Colorado River Mignes in 1864.
CHAPTER IV.
TIIE COLORADO RIVER MINES IN 1864.
Mining on the Colorado.-The River and its Navigation.-The differ ent Mining Districts on the Colorado. -Freight and Passage. Quality of the Ores.-Mode of Working.-Furnaces and Fuel.
THE following extracts from the Alta California, published during the month of April, 1864, present a summary of the condition and prospects of the mining region
of the Colorado. It says:
In consequence of movements in San Francisco to secure the full and cheap navigation of the Colorado River, mining operations throughout that section are being
pushed with energy. Many tunnels and inclines are being run, and shafts sunk. Assays of different ores indicate values per ton of $85, $170, $70, and $30.  One mill
is already at work, crushing chiefly gold ores, and arrangements are in progress for the erection of a first-class mill,
with the necessary machinery for working silver ores,
near the mouth of the river. Large piles of rich ore have
been taken out of the various tunnels and shafts, of which
there are nine mentioned in the report before us. Extensive discoveries of salt, free from impurities, have been
made. It is found in veins similar to the mineral veins,
underlying at an angle of 45 degrees, and varying in
width from eighteen inches to three feet.  Discoveries
of coal are also reported. Several mining districts are
organized-the San Francisco, Williams's Fork, La Paz,
etc. The mines on the extreme lower river are chiefly
valuable for copper; farther up, silver and gold predom
85 
Arizona and Sonora.
iiate. The San Francisco Xining Press, from the columns of which we condense the above, closes its article
thus:
"The river, which is now attracting a large share of
attention, is destined to become one of the most important rivers on the Pacific coast. Its topography and general characteristics are certainly most remarkable. Taking its rise, as we have already said, in the Pike's Peak
mining region, it constitutes simply a mountain stream
until it reaches the vicinity of Black Canion, about eighty
miles above E1 Dorado Canion. From this point to its
mouth, a distance of a little over 600 miles, this river is
navigable for river steamers of a small draught; and for
500 miles of this distance the entire country is rich in
minerals- gold, silver, and copper-down  to its very
banks, and to an unknown and unexplored distance into
the interior. All kinds of miners' supplies will soon be
delivered along this river, via the Gulf of California, for
a price not greater than that now charged for the delivery of goods at Nevada City or Placerville.  Freight has
already been delivered at La Paz for three cents per
pound."
The Alta California then furnishes the following detailed description of the mining districts upon the Colorado, and the modes of working in use there:
The mining districts on the banks of the Lower Colorado continue to preserve their attractions for a considerable number of miners who have been in them for several years. They have as yet produced little bullion, but
they promise to increase in importance, and to furnish no
small portion of the gold, silver, and copper crop of this
coast.
The Colorado River empties into the Gulf of Califor
86 
The Golorado River Mines in 1864.
nia in latitude 31~ 40,' and for ninety-five miles above
that point the river runs through a low plain. At Fort
Yuma, as we ascend the river, the mineral region commences. The various districts are as follows:
I. Yuma or Pichaco District, on the western side of
the river, near Fort Yuma. There may be 100 miners,
mostly Mexicans, engaged in dry washing for placer gold.
There are some rich lodes of silver and copper, and a few
veins of auriferous quartz.
II. Castle Dome -)istrict, on the eastern side of the
Colorado, between that stream and the Gila. There may
be 100 miners here engaged in silver mining. The ores
are rich, but they are from eighteen to thirty-five miles
from the river. Some furnaces are now building for
smelting the ores. The chief town is Castle Dome City,
which has four or five houses, and is thirty miles above
Fort Yuma, by the river.
III. Eureka District, on the eastern side of the Colorado, twenty-five miles, by land, above Fort Yuma, is twenty-eight miles long on the river bank, and twelve miles
wide. There are 100 miners there, of whom a majority
are Mexicans. The mines are silver, lead, and copper,
and very near the river. The country or bed rock is
granite and slate; the silver veins are in pink and white
quartz; the lodes are from two to ten feet thick. The
chief town is Williamsport, which contains  one stone
house and many tents, and is forty-five miles, by the riv er, above Fort Yuma.
IV.  eaver District, on the eastern side of the river,
ninety miles above Fort Yuma. The mines are copper,
silver, and gold. The principal town is Olive City, which
has twenty houses, and is 150 miles, by the river, above
Fort Yuma. The ledges which are now being worked
are situated at from six to fifteen miles of the steam-boat
landing at Olive City. Among these are the Great Cen
87
; 
Arizona and Sonora.
tral, Colorado, Blue Ledge, American Pioneer, Weaver,
Henry Barnard, and others.
V. La Paz District, on the eastern bank of the Colo rado, 100 miles above Fort Yuma. It contains 500 min ers, who are engaged in silver, copper, and lead veins, and
in gold placers. There are some Mexican smelting fur naces at La Paz, the chief town of the district, and ore is
regularly shipped to San Francisco. La Paz City has
150 houses, and is 155 miles, by the river, from Fort
Yumrna.
VI. Chemahueva -District, on the western side of the
river, opposite La Paz.
VII. El -Dorado Ganon District, on the western side
of the river, 250 miles, by land, above Fort Yuma, contains a population of about 300 miners, and has some rich
silver and copper lodes.
There are several other districts along the river, but
some of them are almost unknown save to a few prospectors, who are wandering about in them. The Walker Placer Mines, on the foot-hills of the San Francisco
Mountains, are 150 miles east of La Paz. The diggings
are good there, but the Indians are troublesome. Persons bound for those mines, from California, usually go
through La Paz.
Freight for the Colorado mines, from San Francisco,
goes by sailing vessels, in a voyage of three or four weeks
ordinarily, to the mouth of the Colorado, at a cost of $20
per ton. There are four steam-boats on the Colorado
River; and they charge $25 per ton to Williamsport,
and $75 to La Paz, from the mouth. The stream is about
350 yards wide, and the channel averages five feet deep,
but it has a swift current, and a bed of quicksand, which
is constantly shifting. In the dry season, the steamers
have much difficulty above Williamsport in ascending
the rapid stream, in which no experience can enable a
88 
The Colorado River Mines in 1864.
pilot to know where the channel will be to-morrow, however familiar he may be with it to-day. The steamers
take six days in low water in going from the mouth up
to La Paz.  It is thought the price of freight will fall, in
consequence of competition and opposition. Flour at La
Paz is worth $9 per 100 pounds.
There is not a good silver mill in the whole Colorado
county, and not one mine is opened so that a large amount
of ore could be supplied at a short time, but the vein
stone is known to be good. The Apache Chief and the
Providencia Mines, in the La Paz District, and the Carmel,
in the Eureka District, among others, have shipped ores
to this city. The Arizona Company, in the Eureka District, has sent down sacks to hold 500 tons of their ore,
rich argentiferous galena, which is to be shipped. The
MIargarita, River, N'orma, Enterprise, Rockford, Gray Eagle, Cache Knob, Cocomongo, and Rosario, of the same
district, have smelted rich ores in Mexican furnaces. The
ores of the two last-named mines yielded seventy ounces
of silver to the ton.
The silver ores of the Colorado Valley, or nearly all of
them, contain large quantities of either copper or lead,
both of them unfitted for amalgamation. No attempt has
yet been made to reduce the cupriferous ores; those are
either neglected or shipped to Europe. The chief attention of the miners is turned, therefore, to the argentiferous
galena. That found in the Cache Knob and Arizona
Mines contains sixty per cent. of lead and sixty to 100
ounces of silver to the ton. This and similar ores are
reduced by smelting, which is managed by Mexicans in
the rudest manner.
The rock is crushed, not with stamps or arastras, but
between two flat stones, the upper one being worked by
hand. Some of the workmen stop when there are no
pieces of ore larger than a hazel-nut, and others will not
89 
Arizona and Sonora.
have a piece larger than a pea; very few insist on reducing the ore to a fine flour, as is done in good silver mills.
The finer the ore, the quicker the smelting, and the more
thorough the separation of the metal.
The furnace is built of stone and adobes, ten feet long,
four feet wide, and eight feet high. The inside is lined
with clay mixed with bone-dust, this being the best material to be had there for resisting the action of the fire.
The bellows is worked by hand. It is made of canvas,
and has two horizontal chambers, each about as wide and
half as long as a barrel. These two chambers or bellows
are put on a level with a man's breast; and the workman
pulls out the board end of one bellows, while he pushes in
the board end of the other. Each chamber has its own
pipe, but the two unite, and thus, by the alternate movements of the arms, a constant stream of air is kept up.
The fuel used in smelting is charcoal, made of mesquit, which gives a fire of intense heat.  Twenty-five or
thirty pounds of ore are put in at intervals of ten or fifteen minutes, and at the end of an hour and a half or
two hours they tap the furnace, let out the metal, clean
out the slag, and commence anew. The metal which has
run out, called aplanczcha, weighs from 125 to 150 pounds,
and contains only about one half of one per cent. of silver
to ninety-five per cent. of lead, with a few other base substances.
After all the ore on hand is smelted, refining commences. Two or three planchas are put into the furnace
and melted, and kept at a high heat. The lead turns to
-litharge, which is raked off, and, as the molten metal decreases in quantity, more planchas are added, until the
lead has all been converted into litharge, and the silver
remains pure enough to be sent to the market. The litharge is worth seven cents per pound, and brings nearly
as much as the silver.
90
w 
The Colorado River Mines in 1864.
There are numerous furnaces of this kind in the Colorado region, nearly all of them worked by Mexicans.
It is plain that, if ore will pay for such working, there
must be silver in it. The Mexicans offer to pulverize,
smelt, and refine for $40 per ton. Some Frenchmen at
Olive City have a better class furnace, and rumor says
they are doing well. The Americans are anxious to get
stamps and good furnaces. The Recorder of the Eureka
District, MIr. Spann, is now in this city for the purpose
of getting fire-brick for furnaces, for the clay and bonedust will not last long in a heat hot enough to smelt silver.
The Colorado valley may not be equal to Paradise for
a home, but it is rich in silver, and silver mines are not
generally found in the most fertile valleys and the most
genial climes. There are probably no silver mines in the
world so near the level of the sea as those at Eureka.
91 
Arizona and Sonora.
CHAPTER V.
SONORA FROM 1859 TO 1864.
Improvements since 1859. -The Southern Pacific Railroad. -The
Overland Mail —Guaymas.-Labor in Sonora.-Great Mining Ha ciendas.-The Mining Districts, Alamos, San Xavier, Las Bronces,
Los Cedros.-Price of Labor.-The Jecker Contract for the Survey
of Sonora.-Captain Stone's Scientific Commission.-Its Failure. What it accomplished.-Extracts from Captain Stone's Letters. What the Contract granted.-Present Condition of Sonora.
ThHE prospects of Sonora have much improved since
1859. The constitutional power of the state has been
boldly asserted, and maintained with courage and ability
by Governor Pesqueira; the disturbances caused by the
Yaqui Indians suppressed with a firm hand, revolutions
nipped in the bud, and profound peace maintained for a
long time past. A new port, La Libertad, on the Gulf
of California, above Guaymas, has been opened, giving an
immediate outlet to the valuable district of Altar and
northeastern Sonora, and to Arizona. A liberal grant
has been made by the Legislature of Sonora to an Eastern company, ably represented by General Angel Trias,
for the right of way of a railroad from Guaymas to E1
Paso, to connect with the Southern Pacific Railroad.
This road, which would now have been in an advanced
state had it not been for the civil war in the United
States, must some day be built. The extension of the
Opelousas Railroad from New Orleans, with the Memphis branch to San Antonio, Texas, and E1 Paso, then to
Guaymas, will surely be built before any other road,
when wise counsel shall take the place of the madness
of the hour, and peace again shed her benignant smile
92 
Sonora from 1859 to 1864.
over our unhappy country. European capital, with the
valuable grants in aid of constructing the road, was secured to a sufficient amount to insure its rapid completion. The calculations on which this foreign aid was
procured remain valid, and the development of Sonora
and Arizona will increase their value. The great valley
of the Mississippi will be placed in easy communication
with the Pacific-a communication most devoutly to be
wished. An immense item - never yet noted, I believe,
in the trade of such a road -will be the freight of unnumbered tons of ores, not sufficiently rich to bear the
present costly transportation. As a friend, who is more
poetical than pious, remarked to me, "God never intended these ores, worth ten or twenty dollars a ton, to remain useless forever." I see no reason to change, in any
degree, my opinion of the great superiority of the south ern route along the 32d parallel for the Overland MIail
and Pacific Railroad.
A temporary and partial success during the very mild
winter of 1862 and'63, of the Northern Overland Mail,
is no decided proof in its favor. " One swallow does not
make summer." The advantage of climate - and vastly
less cost-is indisputably with the southern route. I
have therefore reproduced, in a subsequent chapter, an
extract from the speech of Senator Davis, and my own
brief remarks. I stand by them, and am willing to risk
what little of reputation I may have on their accuracy.
A considerable amount of Eastern capital has been in vested in city lots in Guaymas, and landed property near
this magnificent port. The founderies of this city (San
Francisco) are turning out engines, mills, and costly ma  ohinery for the several mines owned in part here.  The
steam-ship line established between San Francisco and
Guaymas is not only a permanent institution, but the com  munication will soon be greatly facilitated by the addi
93
I
i 
Arizona and Sonora.
tion of another steamer to the route. The last steamer
went full to her guards with freight and passengers, and
this is but the beginning. I am drawing no fancy pic ture. The reader can inquire for himself. I repeat, with
a sincere conviction of their truth, the words of Ward in
his able work on Mexico: "I am aware that many of the
statements in this and the preceding books, respecting
the mineral riches of the north of New Spain (Sonora,
Arizona, Chihuahua, and Durango), will be thought ex aggerated.  They are not so.  They zwill be confirmed by
every future report; and in after years, the public, familiarized with facts - which are guestioned only because
they are gewt-wciill wonder at its present in?credulity  and
regret the loss of advantages which may not always be
within its reach."
I submit the descriptions contained in the following
chapters of various mines in Sonora to the attentive consideration of the public. Detailed notices of La Cananea,
Cieneguita, and others, are given, not to show that they
are the only good mines, but as types of different classes
of mines which are found in the state.
The question of labor is one which commends itself to
the attention of the capitalist: cheap, and, under proper management, efficient and permanent. My own experience has taught me that the lower class of Mexicans,
with the Opata and Yaqui Indians, are docile, faithful,
good servants, capable of strong attachment when firmly
and kindly treated.  They have been "peons" (servants)
for generations. They will always remain so, as it is
their natural condition. The master, if he consults his
own interest, and is a proper person to carry on extensive
works, is (in their own language) their "arno y patron'"
-" guide, philosopher, and friend." They depend upon
him, and serve him willingly and well.
I can fairly assert that, although having large pecunia
94 
Sonora fromn 1859 to 1864.
ry interests in both Arizona and Sonora, I have not exaggerated the advantages or palliated the drawbacks to the
investment of capital and personal enterprise in these
states. They are part of the Pacific Empire, in which I
claim a citizenship of more than ten years. In these
pages I have had but one desire: to state things as they
are, and, in the spirit of an honorable ambition, to connect my name, in a permanent and useful way, with her
magnificent progress to a place among the powers of the
world. 
To appreciate what wonderful internal resources Sonora has, one should visit the Hacienda de ]a Alameta, fifteen miles from HIermosillo, owned by Don Manuel Yfigo, or of La Labor, owned by the Astizarans. A few
weeks since, with a member of the Yfiigo family, I went
over the Alameta. There are miles of wheat, corn, and
sugar-cane.  An immense field is being cleared for cotton. Some specimens of the cotton, of good, fine staple,
growing wild, were exhibited. A flour-mill of the best
description, with abundance of water power; sugar mill
and works; a manufactory of blankets, the wool for which,
and the dye-stuffs, are grown on the place; a wagon
manufactory is also carried on for the sole use of the ha cienda; tobacco also is produced, of excellent quality;
oranges, lemons, pomegranates, and other tropical fruits,
of delicious flavor, are grown in abundance. These places
are simply principalities, where a man has all the prod ucts of the earth under tribute and at hand. The large
cotton mill near La Labor, at San Miguel, has been offer ed to San Francisco capitalists on liberal terms. The cot ton can be raised at its very door. Indigo, Brazil wood,
cochineal, and other dye-stuffs, grow spontaneously in the
Yaqui and Mayo valleys; also coffee of the best quality.
The following are some of the principal mining dis tricts of the State of Sonora:
95
6 
Arizona and Sonora.
Alamos is situated some 240 miles southeast firom the
port of Guaymas. This district is particularly rich in
silver leads. The principal or most noted mines are Nuestra Sefiora de VP-.vanero, in the small Redl of Promontorio, five miles north, which has been owned and worked by the family of Almadas for the last century. The
present owner, Don Jos6 MI. Almada, is now working a
deposit of black ores, which he found at a depth of 600
feet, with surprising results. His reduction works are
situated at Los Mercedes, about two miles to the east of
Alamos. The mines of Dios Padre, Santo Domingo, Libertad Cotera, and many others, are in the immediate vicinity of Promontorio.  The Real of Minas Nuevas, about
two miles east of Alamos, contains many rich mines;
among them San Jos6 Uvalama, Discobredora, Rosario
de Talpa, Sambono, and others. The Rosario de Talpa
and the Sambono are now successfully worked by Juan
A. Robinson, of Guaymas, and T. Robinson Bours, of
Stockton. The district of Alamos contributes very largely to the export of silver from Sonora.
San Xavier is distant about 140 miles from the port
of Guaymas in a northeast direction, and about the same
distance southeast from the city of Hermosillo, approachable from both points by an excellent wagon road. This
is one of the oldest and richest mineral districts of Sonora. There are many mines situated within a radius of
about three miles, viz., Las Bronces, Las Cruzecitas, Las
Afucsenios, Las Cumbres, La Division, La Naguila, Las
Animos, La Sierra, and many others. The most important are Las Bronces, worked by Don Mateas Alsua, who
has erected extensive reduction works, having stamps,
barrel furnaces, etc.; his ores are treated by the Freyburo 
process, yielding about $1000 per day.  Mr. Alsua is alsd
working the Naquila.
Las Bronces is situated about 200 yards lower down
96 
Sonora from 1859 to 1864.
than Las Cruzecitas. The latter, which now belongs to
the Las Cruzecitas Mining Company of this city, has been
extensively developed; ten tons can be raised daily, and,
when farther elaborated, will yield much greater quantities. The vein, which is particularly well defined, increases in width and richness as it descends; and now,
at a depth of 145 feet, the vein is nine feet wide. The
ore of the pilares is very rich, while that from the mine
averages over $150 per ton all through. The petanque
(the miner's name for rich sulphurets of silver) extracted from the lower excavations assays over 83000 per
ton of 2000 pounds. The company will erect reduction
works at the mines, and think to be in operation about
the 1st of October next. The company is managed by
persons of wealth and high responsibility.  About fifteen
miles fron San Xavier is San Antonio de la Huerta, at
which place is located La Mina Prieta Musidora and other
valuable mines. In the district of Saquaripa are many
valuable mines of both gold and silver; the famous Mulatas Mine has yielded millions of fine gold, and the Cieneguita Mines, worked by Mr. Robinson, of Guaymas, are
in that vicinity.
Los Cedros, belonging to Don Jose' Santos Terminel,
is situated in the district of Barroyaca, near the small
town of Tesopaco, forty-five leagues from Guaymas in
the direction of Alamos. This is a very rich mine, and
has been extensively worked. It is surrounded by rich
and arable lands. A permanent stream of water flows in
the vicinity of the mine.
The State of Sonora is particularly favored for mining
operations, having plenty of fuel, pasture, and water, labor
being abundant and cheap; common laborers, "peons,"
to be had at from thirty-seven and one half cents per
day, and furnace-tenders at from fifty to seventy-five
cents.
97
E 
Arizona and Sonora.
I proceed to give a brief history of the Jecker contract
for the survey of the State of Sonora.
In the year 1857, Messrs. Juan Bautista Jecker & Co.,
Don Antonio Escandon, and Don Manuel Payno, of the
city of Mexico, on the one part, and J. B. G. Isham, of
San Francisco, California, on the other, entered into a
contract for the survey of the public lands of Sonora.
The contract was based upon a grant to the house of J.
B. Jecker & Co. by the general government of Mexico,
the terms of which were an absolute transfer of one third
of all the public lands (terrenos baldios), with the right
of purchasing any portion of the two thirds remaining to
the general government for cash, in preference to any
person offering the same sum.  The condition of this
grant being an accurate survey, with maps, of the public
lands, with the most exact description possible of the climate, productions, and advantages for commerce and
agriculture. The time allowed for this survey was three
years.
By a series of deeds, this contract became vested in the
hands of Jecker & Co., J. B. G. Isharn, S. W. Inge, J. Mora
MIoss, Wm. AI. Lent, and James E. Calhoun. A scientific
commission was organized under the command of Captain
(now General) Charles P. Stone. Perhaps never before
was so excellent an organization for a similar purpose,
consisting of so many accomplished men in each department. Vessels were purchased for the survey of the coast.
The head-quarters of the commission were fixed at Guaymas, and the survey carried on for a long time with a vigor and accuracy which promised an early and successful
completion of the work, thus securing to the contractors a property whose value can hardly be estimated in
ordinary figures.
Difficulties sprang up between the state government
and Captain Stone, which at first delayed, then entirely
98 
Sonora from 1859 to 1864.
paralyzed the work, and, finally, the scientific commission
was expelled from Sonora by the government of the state.
It is no province of mine to enter into the merits of this
difficulty. There are two radically different versions: On
the one hand, Captain Stone being charged with violating
the laws of the state, and fomenting revolution; on the
other, it is claimed that the state government's action was
illegal and uncalled for. The commission proceeded to
Arizona and built a little village, where it remained idle
for months.  Captain Stone appealed to the U.S. government for protection, and demanded to be reinstated in his
rights in Sonora. The U. S. government did not sustain
him. Negotiations with eminent capitalists for more
funds in New York, all completed, were broken up by the
continued opposition of the government of Sonora, and
other causes, and the work has not been renewed.
The regular protests and legal steps were taken to secure the rights of the owners of the contract, and a very
able opinion from Caleb Cushing as to the validity of the
contract, and its binding character on the Federal Government of Mexico, was obtained.  This opinion was answered at length by Mr. Monteverde, Secretary of State for
Sonora, in a paper which is claimed by his friends and the
opponents of the Jecker contract to be able and conclusive.
About $250,000 was expended in the survey as far as
it had progressed, and a much smaller sum would have
completed the entire work. It should be added that this
contract in no way invalidates private titles to lands or
vested rights.  It includes the "terrenos baldios"-that
is to say, "all the property of the Federal Government,
waste lands, the old presidios, the Jesuit and Franciscan
Missions, the lands of barbarous tribes of Indians, enemies of the white race, who have never submitted to the
laws; and, lastly, the lands occupied by private individ
99 
Arizona and Sonora.
uals to which they have no legal title, comformable to
Mexican laws."
From the letters appended, it will be seen how much
had been accomplished. I was in Sonora in 1858, and
saw a considerable portion of the work, and since many
of the maps. They do great credit to Stone, Jasper and
Robert Whiting, engineers, and to the other gentlemen
of the survey. It is hardly necessary to add that the owners of the Jecker contract fully believe in its validity, and
in their ultimately receiving the benefits of it.* They are
men of capital and enterprise. They undertook and carried on the work in good faith, and in a manner commensurate with its magnitude and the great return they were
to receive. The benefit to a state of such a survey can
not be overestimated, and it is doubtful if it would have
been undertaken, except under a liberal contract, for many
years.
Extracts fiom Correspondence of Captain Stone, Chief of Commission.
Guaymas, May 19, 185S.
The engineers on board have carried their work on Pinacati Bay
about thirty-six miles, which will bring in between seven and eight
hundred thousand acres more of public lands. They have also surveyed George's Island.
For the past ten days I have had a party at work on a large rancho
about four miles from town, which extends six and seven leagues on
the coast. This survey enables us to stretch up the coast and take in
some public land in that direction.
June 11. Specimens of minerals and dye-woods are constantly
brought me, and I can now, on my own knowledge, declare Sonora
to be the richest in natural productions of the states of Mexico which
I have seen, and those nearly all.
July 11. I have ready two more detail maps, embracing about
400,000 acres, and there will be a third nearly ready containing
375,000 more.
* It is stated that Mr. Jecker has been recognized as a French citizen, and will receive the protection of the Emperor Napoleon in asserting his rights in Mexico.
100 
Sonorafronm 185 9 to 1864.
July 31. You may be confident that, once settled, the lands of the
Yaqui Valley will exceed those of Texas in her best parts. Three
crops can be grown there each year, and the soil is inexhaustible. Had
I half a million, I would venture it, knowing what I do, on this enterprise. I send you detail maps Nos. 2, 4, and 5.
Aug. 15. I send you detail map No. 8. Before this letter reaches
you I shall have notes for mapping the whole of that portion of the
coast south of Guaymas, one hundred miles of coast near Tiburon,
and a large body of lands adjoining that coast. These surveys will
embrace many hundred square miles of the most valuable lands in the
state, and nearly all public lands.
I assure you that, with a little patience, this contract must turn out
many millions. If I am mot crippled for the want of funds, I shall
have the entire coast for a depth of thirty to forty miles; the entire
north line for an equal depth; the entire southern line, and a part of
the eastern, accomplished before the end of winter; but if funds fail, I
shall be forced to abandon the grandest and richest enterprise which
has been undertaken in this country by private individuals.*
The action taken by the governor diminishes our labors immensely,
for now I am not obliged to measure separately the private lands, but
work as best I can, and your rights under the contract are " conserved,
although the limits may remain pendent through the action of what ever civil or military authority or tribunal of justice."
I have just dispatched a new set of maps, furnished for the use of
the judge who, during these troublous times, is to hold his sittings in
Mazatlan, and on the approval, the titles to all surveyed will be issued
immediately.
You will thus soon find yourself the owner of some millions of acres
not taxable.
Survey of Sonora, Office of Chief of Commissionu,
Guaymas, Nov. 25, 1858.
Col. S. W. Inge, Washington, D.C.:
At Mr. Moss's request, I have had constructed, and herewith inclose
to you,. a map, showing the amount of work done.  It shows all that
we can now send in, but not near all that we have partial notes of.
Slight reconnoissances will enable us to use a great number of notes
which we have on hand, but which require connecting explanations.
I beg you also to see immediately Doctor Thomas Antisell, the geologist appointed for the commission; he is now in the Patent Office.
* The foregoing letter was written before Messrs. Inge and Moss advanced the money named in their contract with Mr. Calhloun.
101 
Arizona and Sonora.
Please furnish him with three thousand dollars-two thousand on account of pay, and one thousand with which to purchase instruments,
etc.-and dispatch him here by the Overland Mail. His services will
be of immense value, both before and immediately after annexation.
The lands surveyed in the Yaqui, Mayo, and Fuerte River valleys
are rich beyond estimate, and immense bodies of them are public land.
Dr. Antisell will be invaluable in getting possession of mines, selecting those of value, and rejecting those not worth the trouble and expense. You have the foundation of one hundred great companies in
your contract-great land companies and great mining companies.
Do not lose one moment in communicating with me after you receive this, and please send me authority to draw on New York and on
San Francisco, for, if I must carry out the" ntire contract under the
estimate, I must have funds so as to not be obliged to contract the
operations.
You can not, so far away, conceive even the value you have. Do
not allow the matter to fall through by delay, which will be as bad as
abandonment.
I shall write you by every possible opportunity, and send maps as
fast as they can be constructed. I have a beautiful chart of this port
and neighborhood, but can not get it copied in time to send now.
Captain Davis has commissioned Mr. Whiting (one of our engineers)
as his clerk, and made him bearer of dispatches to Fort Buchanan,
whence they will be forwarded by the commandant.
I remain, dear sir, yours very truly,
CHARLES P. STONE, Chief of Commission.
The development of the mining interest of Sonora by
American capital has largely increased during the yeairs
1863 and 1864. lMIany new mines have been opened, and
the prospects of nearly all are good. Among the most
prominent mines opened lately are Las Cruzecitas, Corral Viejo, and E1 Refiigio, the latter on the border of
Chihuahua. Trade with San Francisco has largely increased, and is increasing.
102 
Mlines of La Cananea and Cieneguita, Sonora. 103
CHAPTER VI.
THE MINES OF LA CANANEA AND LA CIENEGUITA, SONORA.*
La Cananea: Early Working of the Mines.-Don Ygnacio Perez. The Sierra of La Cananea.-Condition of the Mines in 1860.
Their Situation.-The different Mines.-The Ores.-Chamunque.
-Access to the Mines.-Assays of Orcs.-La Cieneguita: Situation
of the Mines.-Early Working.-Their Abandonment. -Titles.  Location.-The Mines.-The Hacienda. -Fuel, Water, Building
Materials, Wages, Provisions, etc.- Resume. -Assays of the Ores
of La Cieneguita.
LA CANANEA.-When or by whom the mnines of the
Cananea were first opened is lost with the missing mining records of the State of Sonora. Long periods of revolution, which checker the annals of that unhappy province, have cause( the dispersion and destruction of the
archives, and have even extinguished the faint and flickering torch of tradition.
Seventy years ago or more they were worked on a
large scale, and with great energy, by the house of Guea,
of Chihuahua, but when that house went down in the
disturbances which marked the advent of the century,
the mining enterprise was abandoned, and remained in
abeyance till the epoch in which Don Ygnacio Perez reestablished their exploitation. On the death of the elder
Perez, his son, the second Don Ygnacio, continued the
works but a short period, when, either from pecuniary
embarrassment or Indian troubles, he stopped all operations on the Cananea, devoting himself exclusively to the
care of his numerous and extensive haciendas.
Subsequently to the great rising of the Apaches de
* Reports of ROBERT L. D'AUMAILE, Mining Engineer and Assayer
for the State of Sonora.
W. 
Arizona and Sonora.
Paz in 1831, Don Ygnacio Perez recommenced operations
in the district under the superintendence of his brother
Don Francisco, and ultimately under that of John P.
Brodie, who erected new reduction works, and continued
in charge till their final abandonment, owing to the failure of the proprietor, and renewed Indian difficulties in
1837. Don Ygnacio Perez retired to Mexico, where he
died about three years since in deep poverty, leaving his
affairs in inextricable confusion. His widow, a daughter
of General Urrea, remains in Mexico; his son, Francisco,
resides in Ures. Two surviving brothers, Felipe and
Francisco, reside in Arizpe and Ures respectively. None
of these have any legitimate claim on the mines of La
Cananea.
The Sierra of La Cananea is situated about twelve
leagues southwest of the presidio of Santa Cruz; about
eighteen southeast of that of San Pedro; probably thirtyfive miles southerly from Fort Buchanan, and not far
fiom the American line. The mines (worked) are seven
in number, of which the principal are El Ronquillo, La
Chivatera, San Rafael, Santo Domingo, La Mina de Cobre
Pobre, and La Mina de Plomo de Arvallo. In addition
to these are La Mariquilla (of white copper), El Tajo (the
ancient mine), and others; in fact, the whole region is
strongly mineralized and of most prepossessing exterior.
The Hacienda de Beneficio of Perez & Arvallo is on El
Ritto, a permanent stream at the foot of the mountains,
about a mile or a mile and a half from the mines. The
greater portion of the road is excellent, and the remainder can be readily made so.
The Governor of Sonora* being strongly impressed
with the extent and value of the mineral deposits of the
* La Cananea is the property of Don Ygnacio Pesqueira, present
governor of Sonora. It is said a large capital is to be invested in this
mine by foreigners.
I
104 
MXines of La Cananea and Cieneguita, Sonora. 105
Cananea, at his request I undertook its exploration, and
in the middle of March of the present year, under escort
of Don Santiago Garcia, Prefect of Arizpe, visited the locality. We found the old hacienda a mass of ruins, overgrown with rank vegetation, but the new one erected by
Mr. Brodie in such a state of disrepair that an expenditure of half its cost would probably suffice to restore it
to its pristine condition. All the machinery had been
destroyed by the natives in order to steal the metalwork, and most of the roofs had fallen.
The situation is pleasant-  on the borders of a vast
plain, covered with wild horses, which stretches away to
the San Pedro; and much arable, with any quantity of
grazing land, lies immediately around the site. Half a
mile or so up the valley brings us to the mine of El Ronquillo, called also, from its refractory ores, La MIaletiosa,
with its ancient hacienda. This mine was the property
of Arvallo, and in dispute with Perez, who never worked
it, being driven off by the Apaches. Government could
not supply me a guide, and all the information I could
obtain on this and the other mines has been drawn from
various, scattered, and irregular sources, and should not
receive entire credence.  I consulted all the existing
books of the enterprise in Arizpe, but they threw no light
on any thing except the most obvious of all, San Rafael.
El Ronquillo has a thickness of three and a half or four
feet of very rich ore, worked to a depth of eighty feet.
It has several mouths,is full of water to the brim-which
water comes fiom copious springs in the lower workings,
and a ravine which passes across the vein-and, from its
situation upon the gentle slope of a hill, which gradually
merges into the plain beneath, can not be drained by a
tunnel, but recourse must be had to steam machinery.
No ore of this mine was found in the debris or the haci en(la; but I ordered search made in all the slag-heaps,
I" 
I 
Arizona and Sonora.
and the lead extracted, of which the assay is annexed,
shows that the ore was extremely rich.
Passing up the ravine, we crossed in the path more
than one outcrop of copper ore, into which a pick had
never been struck, but which, on assay, yielded a fair percentage of copper, and a quarter of a mile above reached
the mine of La Chivatera. La Chivatera is situated on a
steep declivity, admirably adapted to tunnel-drainage,
and is half full of water. It bears every external evidence of being a powerful vein, but I am assured by Mr.
Brodie that it is really an irregular deposit.  The ores
are various, of copper, silver, and lead, those of copper
prevailing. The teneros are full of good ore, and at their
feet flows a permanent stream, unfit for use from mineral
impregnation, but well placed to wash the rubbish. In
fact, the ore thrown away in the teneros, lying in the haciendas, and metal wasted in the slags, would form a respectable fortune for a manl in Europe.
Three hundred yards higher up lies a great open cellar,
for I can compare it to nothing else, with a small pile of
refuse lying at one side: this is the mine, or Tajo of San
Rafael. Judging from the small amount of earth visible,
and the statements of the old administrador, it is nearly
a solid mass of ore. You have ore on all sides in the
level, so that it is impossible to tell where the vein is.
This ore is ductile and most easily reducible-it flows
like water in the furnace. The supply is apparently inexhaustible.
Farther up the glen is the Mina de Plomo de Arvallo,
of the same character as San Rafael. The ores of these
mines appear to consist principally of oxide and sulphate
of lead, although vast masses of galena are found, and are
so soft that a single barretero can throw down many
tons a day, while the cost of extraction is nothing. The
holes appear of trivial dimensions, and yet they have
106
I 
2liiies of'La Cananea and Cieneguita, Sonora. 107
been worked from time immemorial, and the litharge, or
jugas, from San Rafael have supplied all Northern Sonora with that necessary article, and they have ever formed an article of export to Jesus Maria and other great
mining towns of Central Chihuahua.
Continuing our course and passing some false veins,
we reach the mine of Cobre Pobre. The ore of this
mine is boundless in extent, but of inferior quality, and I
paid it but little attention. Near this point is the great
vein of La AIariquilla, which I could not find for want
of data, and of course did not visit. I had been assured
that it was in the Sierra of la Mariquilla, four leagues to
the northward (and it seems there is some mine there),
and that the discoverer was dead and the site nearly
forgotten. This mine, from its great alleged dimensions
and the richness of the ores, had great interest for me,
especially as the cause of its abandonment was the fact
of its producing white copper. I had hoped that it might
be a counterpart of the "paktong" of China, or the white
copper of Hildburghausen, the prototype of German sil ver; but the accounts were so obscure, conflicting, and
contradictory that I could make nothing of it.
Felipe Perez, sent by his father when a boy to learn
book-keeping at the hacienda, recollects distinctly being
shown it once by his father, who remarked, incidentally,
that it was a magnificent vein, but useless, as it yielded
nothing but white copper. He places it in the Sierra of
the Mariquilla, but his organ of locality is so bad that he
loses himself in his own garden. Francisco Perez, who
received $1000 a month from his brother to respoblar
(literally to repopulate) the Real, asserts, on the contrary,
that there never was any mine of white copper, but that
this designation was applied to the grayish alloy of cop  per, lead, and silver extracted from the "arenillas" of La
Chivatera. Brodie, in turn, confirms Felipe's statement, 
professes to know the vein well, and says that he smelted
into one pig a number of small ingots left in the hacienda
by the elder Perez and dispatched it to Hermosillo, where
it was examined by Gandara, old Monteverde, and the
other experienced miners, who pronounced it silver, but
professed themselves unable to purify it. A similar occurrence fell under my notice in Mulatos. Brodie describes it as having the qualities of copper when smelted,
cooling brittle, with a coarse grain, and the color and
other properties of impure silver.
E1 Tajo, the most ancient mine, is a huge rent in the
earth like the Panys Mine in Anglesey, but the ores
changed at the depth of thirty feet, suddenly, into pyrites. It is probable, from analogy, that these pyrites are
argentiferous. Immense masses of a black rock were
abandoned by the ancient miners in the walls under the
supposition, probably, that they were black slate, it appearing to me that they resembled a semi-stratified silicate of the dclinoxide of copper.  I carried away a fragment, whose analysis verified my conjecture. Other
mines of argentiferous galena, varying from twelve to
3200 ounces per ton, are alleged to exist near the Ojo de
Agua de Arvallo; but, having seen them, and entertaining very little hopes of seeing the latter, I forbear dilatinig on their alleged extent and productiveness.
Of all these mines, the only one which needs steam
power for its drainage is E1 Ronquillo, and the oaks
(former growth), though they have not recuperated perfectly since the days of the old metal-seekers, are yet so
abundant as to afford an ample supply of fuel for that
purpose and the uses of the reduction works. Besides
the oaks, there are vast and most accessible forests of
charmnzitque, a species of pitch pine of great strength and
durability, excellently adapted for machinery and building materials.
Arizona a2zd Sonora.
108 
Mines of La Cananea and Cieneguita, Sonora. 109
To convey an idea of the strength of this chamunque,
I may mention that one of the legs of my portable cot,
made of the best quality of ash, having yielded to the
strain and broken, I replaced it by a piece of chamunque
from the ruins, of much less area, and, despite twentythree years of exposure to the inclemency of the weather,
the substitute answered perfectly, being stronger, in fact,
than when first hewn.
The mines are accessible by a good wagon-road via
Santa Cruz from Fort Buchanan, Tubac, la Piedra Parada, and Guaymas, and are surrounded by the great (depopulated) haciendas of San Bernardino, E1 Ojo de Agua
de Arvallo, another Ojo de Agua, Cuitahasa, el Agua Escondida, Las Animas, and Bacanuche. Another road,
called a wagon-road, passes by Bacuachi, Arizpe, Ures,
and Hiermosillo to Guaymas. Its position is romantic
and delightful; pasture exists green in Bacanuche all the
year round, and of most nutritious quality. Cultivable
land of considerable extent is found in the same hacienda, which is the natural feeder of the Real. The mines
themselves are said by Felipe Perez to be on public land
-a narrow strip or sobrante between three ranchos.  All
the necessaries of a great establishment -building material and fluxes-abound in excess. Building stone, granite, fine marble, tepustete arenillas, jugos, and ayudas,
are plentiful, and during my search for the lost mines of
Las Lamas and Espiritu Santo on the road to Bacanuche,
I found a vast deposit of most refractory furnace sandstone, the first I have seen in Sonora.
The water is good and the locality healthful, and its
proximity to the American military stations of Fort Buchanan and Arrivaypa would render feasible a project of
united action against the Apaches, who operate at a disadvantage in the wide plain that stretches away to San
Guaycheque and the San Pedro. 
Arizona and Sonora.
Assays were made in Arizpe from the 24th to the 29th
of March, 1860, of ores from the Cananea and metal from
the scoria of the smelting furnaces, the latter to determine the richness of the ores formerly reduced, and to dispel a universal vulgar error extant in Arizona and Sonora to the effect that the copper of La Cananea and Santa
Rita de Cobre contained from 0.80 to $1 o00 of gold per
Spanish lb.  The following were the results
Assay No. 785..500 grammes lead from slags of San Rafael.
Silver-.092 per cent. =3 marcos, 5 oz. 7 adarmes por tonelada
de 2000 lbs.
Gold-traces.
Assay No. 786..500 gms. lead from slags of E1 Ronquillo.
Silver-I1 per cent.=2 m. por quintal=40 m. por ton.
Gold-i1 oz. 3 ad. por ton.
Assay No. 787. 2000 gms. copper from slags from old hacienda.
Silver-.075 per cent. =24 oz. por ton.
Gold-traces. Not determined.
Assay No. 788. 2000 gms. copper from new hacienda.
Silver-.11 per cent.=41 oz. 12 ad. por ton.
Gold-too insignificant to determine.
Adulterants-lead, carbon, iron, sulphur.
Assay No. 789. Ores of Baranucle.
Assay No. 791..205 gms. pure galena (ayudas), Ronquillo.
Lead-83 per cent.
Silver-i1 per cent.=32 oz. por ton.
Gold-slight traces.
Assay No. 792..100 gms. (false ore) metal de todo brosa, Ronquillo.
Silver-1.25 per cent.=40 oz.
Gold-large quantity.
Assay No. 794..100 gms. copper ore, La Chivatera.
Silver-.037 per cent. =12 oz. por ton.
Assay No. 795..100 gms. same ore.
Copper-32.5 per cent.
Lead-20 per cent. (by calculation).
Assay No. 796..100 gms. copper ore firom untouched outcrop.
Silver-none found.
Copper-32 per cent.
Assay No. 797..100 gms. yellow ore of La Plomosa.
Silver-.165 per cent. =521 oz. por ton.
Gold-traces.
Lead-estimated in 60 per cent. Very fusible and docile.
Assay No. 798.. 100 gms. metal negro de San Rafael.
Silver-.20 per cent.=64 oz. por ton.
Gold-good ley.
Lead-not determined, but muy reseco.
Assay No. 799.. 100 gms. ore of La Escalera.
110 
fflines of La Cananea and Cieneguita, Sonora. 111
Silver-.08 per cent.=25 oz. 10 ad. por ton.
Gold-good percentage.
Assay No. 800..100 gms. dinoxide copper ore of Cumpas.
Copper-80 per cent.
Silver-none.
ROnERT L. D'AUMAILE,
Ensayador Oficial del Estado de Sonora.
Arizpe, 29 de Mayo de 1860.
LA CIENEGUITA.-Having concluded the explorations
which I was commissioned to make in relation to the
mines and Real of the Cieneguita, I hereby embody, as
succinctly as possible, a general resum6e of the results of
my labors.
The Real of the Cieneguita embraces in itself and its dependencies the mines known as La Chipiona, La Colorada,
La Cagona, La Prieta, and the vein of copper in Matarachi, La IDescomulgada and Los Tajos, La Viruela and E1
Realito, San Rafael, Ostiminuris, Yerba Buena, and E1 Potrero. All these mines, with the exception of E1 Potrero,
which is at some leagues distance, are found within a radiuts of three miles from the central point, and the great
Veta Madre, or principal vein, appears to be that of La
Chipiona.
The origin of the Real is shrouded in the mnists of antiquity. Tradition even fails to indicate the period when,
or the person by whom the mines were originally worked;
but the general belief, based upon ancient maps and landmarks, identifies it with the long-lost Real of Tayapa, famous in the early Spanish annals. The district surround ing it constituted the mining province of San Yldefonso
de Ostimulis; but of the actual state of the mines at that
period the sole evidence remaining is tradition, and the
information which may be gleaned from an inspection of
the excavations made and the ruins left by the former
possessors. The testimony of the oldest and most relia ble inhabitants, resident near the spot from infancy, is
unanimous to the fact that in the early part of the pres 
Arizona and Sonora.
ent century the Real remained in the same condition, under the same circumstances of abandonment and decay,
and that the uniform tradition of the country assigned to
them, even then, a high and unknown antiquity.
Subsequently they were repopulated by Rafael Valenzuela, who worked two of them with great success, and
were again abandoned on the general uprising of the
Opatas.
The only modern veins opened were those of San Jose6
del Pinar, now exhausted, and Yerba Buena, whose mouths
are closed by the falling in of the pit framing.
The abundance of ores of the Chipiona, Colorada, etc.,
was generally known and recognized, as also their richness; but, owing to their belonging to the class termed
in the technology of the country rebelde (i.e., refractory
or hard ores, sulphurets, etc.), the native miners have been
unable to extract the silver.
Tites.-The mines, except those of E1 Potrero, La Prieta, and the copper vein in MIatarachi, are on the rancho
of La Yglesia, a fine grazing estate of eighteen square
miles in extent, belonging to and in the occupancy of Dol
Jose6 Yreneo Monge. The title is said to be perfect aind
undisputed-a Spanish grant of Carlos III.  It is wooded
and watered, and contains sufficient arable land.
The rancho of Matarachi, which bounds it on the westward, is a beautiful pine forest, with some excellent cultivable land, contains nine square miles, well watered, and
is likewise a Spanish grant of the last century. It contains the vein of La Prieta and the outcrop of copper.
The title to these deposits is a " denouncement," as discoverer, of four pertenencias-twenty-four Mexican feet
in length, with an appropriate width, depending on the
inclination of the vein. The mines of Los Tajos, La Descomulgada, and E1 Realito, each four pertenencias as respoblador (i.e., repopulator). E1 Potrero and La Viru
112 
.Mines of La Cananea and Cieneguita, Sonora. 113
ela, one each. La Chipiona and La Colorada, possession
given by the Piefect of Sahuaripa on the 13th of September-1800 feet in length, with 600 on La Plomosa, and
1350 in width, including all the present workings in the
three mines. The sites called El Potrero, La Amargosa,
La Cieneguita, and Yerba Buena, denounced as " haciendas de beneficio"-positions for reduction works.
Location.-The Real of the Cieneguita is situated in a
pretty little dell, embosomed among lofty wooded mountains, almost at the foot of the Sierra de San Ygnacio, and
partly embraced by the unbroken ranges of the great
Sierra MIadre. Owing to the impossiblity of procuring
the requisite instruments, I was unable to determine the
latitude and longitude. It is distant, by the road, fourteen leagues southeast of Sahuaripa, three leagues southeast of Tarachi, and four leagues west of Mulatos, little
more than half that amount. The Real contains perhaps
twenty acres of cultivable ground, admirably adapted for
gardens, and is supplied by springs and a never-failing
brook of excellent water which traverses its centre.
The climate is mild, delightful, and probably whole some; but in winter the snow is said to fall occasionally
two feet in depth, and ice to form in the creek as many
inches in thickness.  The stalwart frames and robust
health of the octogenarian proprietor of La Yglesia and
his lady might be envied by many a tobacco-chewing
American of thirty-five.  The road which leads to the Ci eneguita and Mulatos from Sahuaripa is mountainous in
the extreme-from Aribechi to the Real, a distance of ten
leagues, it is nearly all mountain, except the plain of Los
Cazadores in the rancho of Agua Blanca and the valley
of the Rio de Ostimuris, upon which the road runs from
San Francisco to Tarachi. A considerable portion of the
Real is covered by foundations of houses and ruins of
smelting-works, or immense piles of scoria and rubbish, 
Arizonca and Sonora.
proving inc(Ttestably to the practiced eye the vast extent
of the mining operations formerly carried on in the Real.*
The -Lines.-Leaving the Real, the road runs up the
brook northwest, and about three hundred yards distant
fiom the hacienda is a working of trifling depth in the
bank of the stream, now filled with earth, called -La
Cargona. All that is known of it is that the metal is
said to be plombiferous, the vein (metallic portion) one
foot in width, and the ore to pay sixteen ounces to the
hundred weight. AMr. Ortiz has never examined it, on
account of the influx of water from the rivulet adjoining.
Two miles distant, in the same direction, lies the hill
which contains the veins of La Chipiona, La Colorada, La
Plomosa, and another, fallen in, whose very name has perished. The veins have been opened in many parts by the
Spaniards, who, according to their almost invariable custom, contented themselves with sinking shafts for the extraction of the superior decomposed ores, abandoning the
mine on reaching the sulphuirets, from ignorance of the
process for the extraction of the silver.  In these sulphurets, and below the old galleries, are situated the present
workings.
-La Colorada, on the north side of the spur, is a portion of the Veta Madre (or main vein), and the workings
are firm and perfectly dry. The part explored by Mr.
Ortiz is about fifty feet in length and forty-five feet in
depth.  This is exclusive of another twenty-feet shaft
eighty feet farther down the mountain, where the ores
are uncovered to the same width, and are said to be identical in quality, but which, from oversight, I neglected to
* The vast extent of the ancient works in the mines of Northern
Mexico and Arizona, taken with the fact of the undoubted richness and
abundance of ores at present, give a guarantee of permanency for these
mines which those of California and Nevada Territory can not yet claim.
This is a material point, well worthy the careful attention of capitalists
seeking mining investments.-S. M.
114 
Mines of La Cananea and Cieneguita, Sonora. 115
examine. The vein in the lower planes (leyels) is about
eighteen inches wide, in parts thirty, running north-northwest and south-southeast, with an inclination to the southeast of about 15~-an excellent course and dip in Mexican
mines. The ore from this, as well as all other accessible
mines, was blasted from the seams in my presence and
under my direction, and the assays are made of the general average of the ores in the vein, without much care being, taken in removing the adhering vein-stone. The assay of this portion is marked in the table of assays 690.
La C]tipiona is also upon the Veta Madre, the vein having the same direction and dip as in La Colorada. The
shafts are two in number, some thirty feet asunder, and
about the same number of feet in depth. They are now
partly full of water from the heavy rains and suspension
of labor, the miners being engaged at present in their
planting-grounds.  The vein has a width, in the lowest
accessible part, of twenty to thirty-six inches, exclusive
of the vein walls, and is said to carry the same depthji and
quality of metal down.
The ores are of a class somewhat different from and
more difficult of reduction than those of the Colorada,
being "bronces apetancados" (bisulphurets of iron, with a
compound sulphuret of silver, iron, lead, and copper), and
are said to give in the German process 160 ounces per ton
of 2000 lbs., and contain alloy of gold. The ores of La
Colorada give, by the same process, 212 to 320 ounces
per ton, according to Mr. Ortiz. Assays marked 69i-2-3.
Not half the superficial excavations of the ancient miners upon this vein have been cleaned out, and the fafling
in of their clabores can be traced all the way across the
crest of the hill-say 250 yards-up to the mouth of La
Colorada. Above the main vein is a cross vein of four to
six inches, cutting it nearly at right angles. Its ore is
said to yield 318 ounces of silver per ton. The assay will 
Arizona and Sonora.
be found marked No. 693; but it is believed that this ore
was somehow confounded in the transportation with that
of the lower shaft of the main vein (No. 692).
Nine hundred feet distant, in a straight line, in a spur
of the same Cerro, is the adit of La Plornosa.  The upper
workings, being badly planned, have recently fallen in from
the pressure of the rubbish in old drifts, and the miners
have driven a level in the solid rock one hundred and fifty
feet farther down, which has advanced fifty feet, but has
not yet struck the ore. They are argentiferous galenas,
with a matrix of stratitic "calishe," said to yield eighteen
per cent. of lead, and ninety-six ounces of silver per ton.
I assayed one of the isolated masses taken at random from
the excavations of the drift, which gave a higher percentage. The assay'is marked 694. Both this vein and La
Chipiona run across the valley and strike the opposite
mountain. The yawning mouths of the old mining
shafts are visible all the way across in many different
points.
All these points are dry, except from the infiltration of
surface water from the workings and rain flowing into
the uncovered shafts, and even if worked to a great depth
are capable of being drained with comparative ease by
means of a tunnel, as the Chipiona debouches upon an abrupt descent of many hundred feet. The walls are firm,
the vein regular, and presenting every indication of permanence. There is more ore stripped and in view in La
Colorada and La Chipiona than that lying in the patios.
A quarter of a mile southwest of the Yerba Buena are
the mines of Los Tajos. The hill-side is covered with
the buried workings of the ancients, and the superior
portion of the vein is in a very precarious condition.
-Ir. Ortiz has driven a tunnel in below, to avoid the cost
and trouble of removing the rubbish. Having mislaid
my notes on the vein, I am unable to speak with precis
116 
Mines ofI.La Cananea and Cieneguita, Sonora. 117
ion, but it is something like half a yard in width, with a
very heterogeneous medley of ores.
It runs completely through the mountain, as very considerable works are visible on the opposite side, but
whether "en metales" or not is not known.  The ores
are contracted to be delivered, clean, in the patios at $4
per 300 lbs., and are said to yield sixty ounces of silver
per ton; but they are loaded with titaniferous and zinciferous minerals. Assay of such ores as were accessible
marked 695.
La  Descormulada is situated about a league westnorthwest of the Yerba Buena.  Its matrix is a very
hard silicious rock, which crumbles with great rapidity
under the combined influence of air and moisture. The
recent rains had filtered through the old workings into
the drift made by MIr. Ortiz, and brought down a portion
of the ceiling, so that access was impossible, and I can
give no description of it. The vein is said to be wide,
and the superficial ores so easily worked that contracts
were made to deliver it, dressed, in the mine mouth, at
$1 per 300 lbs. It is said to give 130 ounces to the ton,
and to be of easy reduction.
La Yerba Buena is a modern mine-said to have been
very rich- whose mouths have fallen in, a few hundred
yards firom the Yerba Buena, on the road to the Descomulgada. Nothing more is known concerning it.
Los Ostimuris, on the road to Yerba Buena, about half
way from the Cieneguita, has two open mouths, and is
full of water, the drifts running under the brook.  Mr.
Monge says it was abandoned, with abundant ores, on
the outbreak of the Opatas, and, as the shafts were shallow, the vein wide, and the ores yielding four hundred
and fifty ounces per ton, he entered into a contract with
a skillful miner, and put up wims and machinery for
drainage. His partner died just as they were approach 
Arizona and Sonora.
ing completion, the Apaches drove off the animals, and,
being entirely ignorant of mining, he abandoned the enterprise.
la Prieta, on the rancho of Mataraehi, about two
leagues east of the Cieneguita, has a width of from four
to six feet -the opening is merely a trial-pit, which the
rains had filled with earth and stones, so that it is impossible to give any opinion concerning it. The ores of the
outcrop are a melange of different sulphurets& heavily
charged with copper. It is probable that a much shorter, better, and less circuitous route than that which leads
past the Real of the Cieneguita can be cut through the
woods direct to Buena Vista. Assay of ore (which can
not be regarded as a fair sample) marked No. 696. They
are said to yield sixty ounces to the ton. The copper
vein, also a trial hole, is situated on the crest of the hill
directly above.
El Potrero, eight leagues distant, I did not visit. It
is said to be an immense "clavo," of volcanic origin, and
unknown extent, at the intersection of two veins.  The
ore is without alloy of silver; but, containing much oxide
of lead and spar, it forms an excellent flux for the ores
of La Prieta and Los Tajos. The cost of carriage is the
only expense.
La Viruela, east half a mile from the site of La Amargosa, is a lofty hill, from which large quantities of gold
have been extracted; but the whole hill (summit) has
fallen in, and all attempts to establish workings to reach
the ores beneath, without removing the superincumbent
debris, have resulted in failure.
La Amargosa, and the rivulet which runs beneath E1
Realito, are constantly washed for gold. The gambussinos told me that they realized about six reals per diem.
Hacienda de Beneficio.-The existing hacienda consists of two small patios and lavadero of masonry (part
118 
Mines of L  Cananea and Cieneguita, Sonora. 119
of the ancient works), three tahonas or arrastras, two
vasos de fundicion, one melting furnace and one reverberatory, with the requisite sheds, three barrels mounted on
the German plan, a worthless battery of three stamps (a
la'iejicana), and the proprietor's residence.  These are
situated in a group in the centre of the valley. There
are other buildings and inclosures not connected with
the hacienda.
The water of the creek is not sufficiently abundant for
machinery, and an examination was made of La Amargosa, one fourth of a mile east, which, by a moderate expenditure in ditch and tunnel, might be diverted from its
course and brought through the Real. This stream is
permanent, and furnishes a considerable volume of water,
with a natural fall of 100 feet, within a space of 100
yards, in its own valley.  As my measuring instruments
were lost in crossing the Rio Grande, these estimates
must be considered in the light of guesses, though I am
convinced that they are close approximations to the truth.
The connection of these two streams has been advocated
by a German engineer, but, in my opinion, on very untenable grounds; as, in addition to the expense, all the advantages which this sudden fall presents for the erection
of a reaction water-wheel would, from the conformation
of the ground, be almost entirely lost.
In La Amar,qosa are the ruins of a dam, race, and reservoir of masonry, two tahonas de agua, houses, etc., a
standing memorial of miscalculation and bad engineering. Around the base of the hill which contains the
Chipiona, and not over 400 yards distant, flows a stream
capable of giving motion to two large wheels, but which
is said to afford water in times of drought only four
months in the year. I consequently paid no more atten tion to it.
The next point examined was Yerba Buena, from two 
Arizonza and Sonora.
to three and a half miles southeast from the Real, four to
four and a half from La Chipiona, and about one fourth
from Los Tajos. The river is the Arroyo de los Ostimuros-water permanent ten months, and sufficient to turn
the wheels during the remainder of the year. An excellent natural foundation for a dam, of solid rock, exists
here at a waterfall, the distance between the abutments
being only twenty-four feet, and no leakage of any kind
being possible. The natural abutments are about twenty-five feet high.
Water sufficient for saw-mill, flouring-mill, and hacienda de beneficio of considerable extent. By my measurement, rudely taken, a race and flume of 1250 feet would,
with a six-foot dam, give a fall of full sixty feet-ample
for all practical purposes.  A  natural tail-race, which
needs but little deepening, is found at this point.
Situation good and pleasant, with plenty of garden
land, building stone, arrastra stone, oaks, pines, some ash
and juniper. Here are the remains of a long line of
sheds, which were once the smelting works of Los Tajos,
those of La Descomulgada and Yerba Buena being farther down the creek. This location, though somewhat
distant from the principal mines, is favorable in every
other respect. The road to the Cieneguita is rocky and
bad, but a good one of regular descent, in soft earth, is
said to exist on the outer side of the ravine.
Fitel, Water, Pasturage, etc.-The subject of water has
been fully discussed under the head of Hacienda de Beneficio. Wood is abundant to excess. The mountains and
valleys are covered with a plentiful, often heavy growth
of oaks (live oak, holm oak, and other species), white and
pitch pine, etc., while juniper and ash are found in the
water-courses in quantities sufficient for purposes of construction.
Pasturage of excellent quality is found every where,
120 
Mines ofLa Cananea and Cieneguita, Sonora. 121
as the forests are free from underwood (from the frequent bush fires), and animals are said to fatten all the
year round.
I may add that Mr. Ortiz undertakes to procure from
the proprietor of La Yglesia a free and gratuitous concession in perpetuity of the right to take, use, and enjoy all
the wood, pasturage, and water power which may be
needed for mining and reduction of metals, and all other
purposes incidentally connected therewith.
Lim)e, Stone, Clay, and  Building Materials.- Limestone is found in various parts; it has been sought for,
and is not known to be abundant. Stone of a very refractory character, for furnaces, falls in the same category,
as it is not known to exist nearer than Sahuaripa. Clays
abound, those of a talcose nature especially, but none
known to be fireproof.  Fire-clay is said to be met with
near Mulatos, and Don Jose6 Maria Lopez, who is certainly competent to judge, assures me that there is a large
bed of superior quality building stones, and timber is inexhaustible.
Labor, Wages, Provisions, Carriage, etc.- All the laborers employed in the mines unite the profession of
ranchero or farmer with that of miner; but I am assured
by competent authority that any amount of skilled labor,
if required, can be drawn, without the slightest difficulty,
from Mulatos, Jesus Maria, La Trinidad, Tarachi, and
Valle.
The wages are, for tentateros,* barreteros, arrieros,
peons,- etc. (miners and general mining laborers), four
reals per diem; azogueros, afinadclores (not required in
the German process), $1.
* Tentateros, those who pack out the ore, in sacks made of hide, on
their backs. Barreteros, those who use the bar in the mines. Azogue.
ros, the amalgamators in the patio process. Afinadores, refiners by the
cupel or "vaso."-flour reals is fifty cents.-Fanega, 175 lbs.-Ley,
the amount of precious metal in ores.
F 
122               Arizona antd Sonora.
Wood, at present (but can be supplied much cheaper),
one real the carga of eighty billets; charcoal, two reals
the hundred weight. Salt, $8 to $10 the carga of 300
lbs.; maize and wheat  (selling price), $6 the fanega.
Wheat and Indian corn can be purchased in the Tierra
Fria at four reals the fanega (of Vizcaia), and contracts
can be made for its delivery at the Real (in quantity) at
an advance of about 500 per cent. on cost price, say
$3 50 to $3 75 per fanega (of Sonora).
Freig,ht from Guaymas, $80 to $90 per ton; from Sahuaripa, $3 per carga (300 lbs.); cattle, $10 to $15; hides,
$1 each; mules and horses, dear; powder of the country,
$7 per arroba (of 25 lbs.); tallow, $7 per arroba.
.Resume.-In recapitulation of what I have said before,
my opinion is that the mines, alluding particularly to the
Veta MIadra of La Chipiona, are of excellent quality, the
ores of good ley and abundant, and of facile extraction.
I have found, in conversation with old and experienced
mine-masters in different parts of the country, that the
richness of the silver of the "bronces," "prietos 6 quemazones," and " metales espejuelosas"-pyrites, blendes,
and mixed sulphurets of Cieneguita-has been generally
known to those conversant with mining affairs, but that
their known " rebeldia," the impossibility of extracting
the precious metals by the antiquated and inefficient processes of the country, has rendered their reduction a hopeless task. This difficulty is completely obviated by the
use of the German process of chlorinization with sal marina and subsequent amalgamation-a process for which
they are peculiarly adapted. It is to be observed that
two items of expense in most of the mining districts
of the republic -jugos and mnagistral (" fluxes") - are
not incurred here, the ores yielding a surplus of these essentials for sale in less favored quarters. The mines are
in the solid rock, with firm walls, without slips or out 
Mines of La Cananea and Cieneguita, Sonora. 123
throws, and all expense of timbering galleries and shafts
will be spared the mine-owners; but the ores are hard,
and require blasts for their extraction.
I would recommend sinking two shafts of one hundred
varas in the workings of La Colorada and La Chipiona
(should the ores, which is probable, extend so far), to
thoroughly test the vein, running a drift from the pit bottoms to connect, and then working the vein from below
upward, before the expense of creating a very large hacienda be incurred.
Labor, except of skilled artisans, is abundant and cheap
in the immediate vicinity. Wood and water power for
every needful purpose abound, but the distance of the
most eligible site of the latter can not be less than four
miles from the Chipiona.
Pasture and tillage-ground is afforded to any required
extent by the ranchos of La Yglesia and Matarachi. In
fine, if the ores continue, as they give every promise of
doing, the amount of silver extracted will depend entirely upon the extent of the operations, and the energy, skill,
and economy of the management.*
* Since the visit of Mr. D'Aumaile we have received samples of
ores of the " Descomulgada," which the proprietors have lately been
working: the vein is wide, the ores easily extracted, and the ley flattering. The " Ostimuros" mine is at present full of water, but can be
cleared at a small expense; the reports of its richness are very flattering. From what I have learned from Mr. D'Aumaile, the proprietors,
and others, the sites for forming " haciendas de beneficio" are numerous, and the water power which can be brought into action will move
more machinery, applied judiciously, than will be needed for working
the mines. Timber for the erection of the works is abundant, as also
copper ore, which metal can be used with greater economy than imported iron for castings that may be required. At a comparatively
small expense, excellent roads can be formed from each of the mines
to the hacienda, as well as to the adjoining towns. As stated at the
commencement of this, these mines can only be worked with success
upon a large scale, for many reasons-at least $200,000 is required. 
Arizona and Sonora.
Assays of Ores of the Cieneguita, September and October, 1859.
No. 690. La Colorada, 172 oz. silver per ton of 2000 lbs.
Gold, trace.
691. La Chipiona   (upper shaft), 224 oz. silver per ton.
692.  "     "        (lower shaft),318 "    "
693.  "    "          (cross vein), 190"    "       "
694. La Plomosa (from new adit), 108"    "          "
696. LaPrieta                        30"    "       "
721.  "   c        (bell-metal ore), 21.54 per cent. copper.
697. La Chipiona (bronces),        160 oz. per ton.
Assays of ores brought by Sr. Ortiz-Nos. 835-842:
Assay No. 835. Ore rejected in the "terreros" as worthless, Bronces
ochavados.
Silver-3 per cent. =12 marcos=96 oz. per Spanish ton of
2000 lbs.
Gold-much stronger standard than in 836.
Assay No. 836. Average of ore now taken from La Colorada.
Silver-5 per cent. =20 marcos (160 oz.) per ton.
Gold-as in 841.
Assay No. 837. Ore of superior quality (Petanqucs hechos), La Colo         rada.
Silver-65 per cent. =26 mar. (208 oz.) per ton.
Gold-heavy ley not determined.
Assay No. 838. Decomposed superficial ore, La Descomulgada.
Lead-20.4 per cent.- 408 lbs. per ton.
Silver-.3686 per cent. =14 m. 6 oz. 12- adarmes (118 1-11 oz.)
per ton.
Gold-.335 oz., or;1 oz. in each marco of silver.
Assay No. 839. Ore of El Potrero-qualitative analysis.
Silver-very small ley; gold not sought; lead, antimony, cop         per.
Assay No. 841. Assay for gold of plata de fuego. La Colorada.
Gold-1.5025 oz. per quintal=3 mar. 7 oz. 3 och. (31+ oz.)
per ton.
Assay No. 842. Assay for gold of plata de fuego.  La Descomulgada.
Gold-2 oz. 15 gr. per quintal=5 mar. 5 och. (40t oz.) per ton.
ROBERT L. D'AUMAILE, Assayer.
124 
The Sierra Madre of xew  Mexico.
CHAPTER VII.
THE SIERRA MADRE OF NEW MEXICO.*
Mineral Wealth of Northern Mexico.-The Sierra Madre.-Mining
under the Spanish Dominion.-Ancient and Modern Mines.-Pres ent Modes of Mining.-The Miners.-Gambussinos.-Their Mode
of Working.-Causes of the Decay in Mining.-Habits of the Min  ers.-Borascas and Bonanzas.-Expulsion ofthe Spaniards.-With  drawal of Military Forces.-Ravages of the Indians.-Lack of Ma  chinery.-Various Causes for the Abandonment of Mines.-Necessi ty for Foreign Capital and Energy.-Inducements for its Invest minent.-Political Relations of Sonora and Chihuahua.-The Apaches.
-Special Advantages of Chihuahua, Sonora, and Sinaloa.-Value
and Distribution of the Ores.-Means of acquiring the Right to
Mines.-Hints to Capitalists.
THE object of this present chapter is to give a short
description of the mineral resources of Northern Mexico,
its past and present state of mining, the cause of its decay, and its future prospects. If it prove of service to
those Californians who take an interest in the mines of
that part of the world, the writer, for many years engaged in mining pursuits there, will be amply repaid for'
his trouble.
Mexico is well known as a rich mineral country, having contributed a large share to the circulating medium
of the world's commerce, and, so far from its mineral
wealth being exhausted, it may be considered as almost
virgin yet. The matrix of all this wealth is to be found
in the Mexican Cordilleras and their branches, which run
more or less parallel with the Pacific coast.
* For this and the following chapter I am indebted to A. W. C.
BRAWNS, Esq., an English gentleman resident in Sonora, a most intelligent and reliable authority, to whom I return my thanks for these
notes.-S. M.
125 
Arizona and Sonora.
That part of the Cordilleras which is of more immediate interest, and which forms, as it were, the natural
boundary between the states of Chihuahua and Durango
on the west, and of Sonora and Sinaloa on the east, is called the Sierra Xadre, or "Mother Mountains," branches
of which diverge into the four mentioned states in all directions, being, however, of more alpine a character only
in those states which border on the Pacific Ocean. These
Mother Mountains and their principal branches are, indeed, most prolific in all the precious minerals; so much
so, that it may be safely asserted there is hardly a village
district or grazing estate in these mountain regions but
can show some vein of gold, silver, lead, or copper, while
many of the rivers and creeks of the glens and valleys
contain placer gold in more or less abundance. But it
must not be inferred from this that all these veins are being worked, or that the country has been fully explored,
for nothing would be farther from the truth; probably not
one fourth of the existing metallic wealth is known, while
but a moiety of it has been or is being developed.
During the Spanish reign mining was far more extensively prosecuted than since the independence of Mexico,
which is testified by numberless old abandoned mines,
here called antiguas, or ancient, and by the diminished
annual production of gold, silver, and copper.  Under the
Spanish government, which did its utmost to foster this
important branch of industry, the miners had many privileges and great advantages; they had peace and security; mineral aviadores, or providers of goods and provisions, which they obtained on credit; government commissaries, who furnished them with quicksilver at low
rates; abundance of good labor at merely nominal wages;
and any amount of cheap cattle, horses, and mules. This
enabled them to successfully work with a small capital
many mines, which under the present circumstances would
126 
The Sierra Xadre of Xew Mexeico.
prove but losing investments to small capitalists. Although the Spaniards prosecuted their mining operations
more extensively, and with greater industry, perseverance,
and success, it is not evident that they possessed a greater amount of mineralogical knowledge than the Mexicans
of the present day. Indeed, numerous ancient surface excavations of veins, without any shafts and drifts, still show
that many of the former dedicated themselves only to
that easy mode of surface working which most readily
furnished them payable ores, and abandoned the veins for
new ones as soon as the raising of the ores became more
difficult, or the latter diminished in their intrinsic value.
Nevertheless, many of the best preserved mines, which
date from that time, will favorably compare with those
of modern development.
At the present time, when mining has reached its lowest ebb in Northern Mexico, there are but few mines which
create special comment; hence the erroneous opinion of
many travelers, who pay flying visits to that part of the
world, that the mines of Alamos, Cedros, San Xavier, San
Antonio de la Huerta, and Babicanora, in the State of
Sonora; those of Rosario, in Sinaloa, and those of Guadalupe Calvo, Cerro Cahui, Batopilas, Vasaparas, and Palmarejo, in the State of Chihuahua, are the only ones of
merit. Without detracting from the value of these really
good mines, it may be safely asserted that there are many
hundreds of veins worked in a quiet, unostentatious, and
often shiftless manner, which lose nothing by comparison,
while a good many far excel them in the intrinsic value
of their ores.  But, generally, the mines of this part of
MIexico are worked in a manner which, though it may
satisfy their unambitious owners, can never fairly develop
their inherent wealth, and which often causes their total
abandonment. There is but little capital invested in most
of these enterprises, little or no expeditious and labor-sav
127 
Arizona and Sonora.
ing machinery used, and but a small number of operatives
employed; consequently, no equable and grand results
can be expected. As a general rule, metallic veins do not
contain in all their parts the same intrinsic value of ore:
in different stretches there will be poor, fair, good, and
exceedingly rich ores; it follows, then, that in working a
vein only in a few isolated spots-as is necessarily the
case where the want of capital prevents the occupation
of many operatives, and the subsequent opening of many
shafts and drifts-the miner takes his chance of luck; he
is generally content if he manages to pay his way along
while the ores are poor; to lay by a little for the day
when a "horse" or cut makes its appearance in the vein,
confident that sooner or later he may strike a rich stretch
of ore, and rise in a few weeks or months to be a man of
more or less fortune. These stretches of very rich ore
are at uncertain distances, and of more or less extent,
sometimes lasting for weeks, months, and even years.
When a mine is worked on a large scale, the enterprise
is less exposed to extremes; for from the many different
parts of the vein there is constantly ore of all classes
raised, and the poor, good, and rich ores furnish in the
aggregate a certain average, and insure an equable and
constantly profitable return.  Most of the Mexican mines,
if worked on a large scale, would yield revenues that
would make a bank director's mouth'water.
In speaking of mines, a word of miners is not amiss:
There is a numerous body of poor Mexican miners, the
"gambussinos," who, though originally a very deserving
class of people, have done much harm to the mining interest, and, although their ill-directed industry has contributed momentarily to augment the productiveness of mining, and, indeed, has solely sustained many mining towns,
they have nevertheless proved themselves a bane to the
country. (Those petty miners who dedicate themselves
128 
Tie Sierra Xadre of Vew _![exico.
to the working of "placers" are not included in this denunciation of gambussinos, albeit they bear the same appellation.)
In former times, before the devastating incursions of
the Apache Indians, the gambussinos occupied themselves
in prospecting and discovering mineral veins, which they
generally sold to persons of capital; they also personally
raised and reduced ore in sufficient quantity for their independent subsistence; and as they were a numerous
body, the small portions of gold and silver annually produced by each individual formed quite a large aggregate.
But when the hostilities of the Apaches rendered it unsafe for single individuals to traverse the country in all
directions, many of them betook themselves in bodies to
work in such mines as had been abandoned by their former owners. This would have been of great benefit if
they had formed an association under the direction of
one or more of their number, instead of which they only
congregated together for the sake of mutual protection,
while each individual did as he pleased. Working without order and foresight, and without those salutary
checks on their operations which were interposed by the
mining inspectors in former times, they break out ore
only where most handy and rich; and, to save time and
labor, they throw the poor ores and rubbish into those
shafts and drifts that are of no immediate interest to
them, and thus render them soon impassable. When the
ores turn poor in the unobstructed shafts, they, perhaps,
regret to have cut off the access to those in other parts
of the vein; but as it is too troublesome and costly to
reopen them, they commence to diminish the size of the
ore-pillars, and frequently extract some of them altogether. The vein walls, losing their required support, begin
to crack, and Nature generally settles the business with a
great crash. Never mind, there are other abandoned
F2
129 
Arizoza andl Sonora.
minies at hand, to which they betake themselves, to play
the same game over again, with generally the same results; so that, when a mine has once been fairly squatted
upon by these would-be miners, it is sure to be more or
less spoiled, and requires often a large expenditure of labor and capital to reopen.
A good deal of the decay of the mining interest is to
be attributed to the miners personally. Many persons
engaged in mining enterprises without the requisite
knowledge and capital to insure success, very often involved themselves in debts, which as often they were
unable to pay; their failure created distrust, and caused
all that credit, which formerly was given by the merchants most liberally, gradually to disappear, much to
the detriment of the mining industry of the country.
Until experience had taught them better, the majority
of Mexican miners, servants as well as masters, were of
the most spendthrift, gambling disposition. Almost all
the Spaniards who worked mines in Mexico were so successful, and realized fortunes so easily and rapidly, that
most of their Mexican successors thought their fortunes
assured by merely being the owners of mines, altogether
forgetting that it was also indispensable to personally
look after their business, and to practice prudence and
economy. Their lavish, gambling mode of life, their negligence and laziness, no mine in the world was  rich
enough to sustain; consequently, when a borasca* made
its appearance, as it will in every mine once in a while,
they not only found themselves without the means of indulging farther in vice and extravagance, but not unfirequently without the requisite funds to enable them to
pierce through the poor ores and dead rock in order to
* Borasca is a temporary failure of the vein or of rich metal. It is
the antithesis of bonanza, which signifies a rich and extensive deposit
of metal in the vein.
130 
The Sierra Madre of Neio Mexico.
strike the rich ores again. Credit, under such circumstances, they could not obtain, for who would trust a
gambling spendthrift? consequently, they were obliged
to sell or abandon mines that had produced hundreds of
thousands, and even millions. Their successors no sooner struck a bonanza than, either from incelination or seduced by others, they commenced to enjoy life in pretty
much the same manner, which, with but few exceptions,
ended ill like results. "Like master, like man:" the
overseers and servants, finding the business left entirely
in their own hands, soon began to think that a few
pounds of ore-every day more or less-wsould make no
difference and never be missed; and, being excellent
judges of ofe, they always selected the very richest for
themselves -ore so rich that a few pounds of it often
enabled them to imitate their master's carousing and
gambling on a small scale.  Is it to be wondered at that,
under such circumstances, the pursuit of mining should
have decayed gradually?
However, gambussinos and miners are not alone to
blame; for many are the causes of the decay of mining
in Northern Mexico, and they all emanate more or less
directly from the overthrow of the Spanish domination.
The first suicidal act of the Mexican government was the
expulsion of the Spanish from the country, which gave a
fatal blow to the mining interest by abstracting from it
almost all the capital and well-directed industry which,
until then, had sustained it in splendor, and caused the
suspension and abandonment of many mining operations
The establishment of the republican form of government
did not prove a panacea for all the evils the Mexicans
were suffering from, and led to continual revolutions;
the governmnent, always more or less in need of the military forces to quell rebellions in the capital and the principal cities of the interior of the republic, which are the
131
0 
Arizona and Sonora.
hotbeds of revolutions, was compelled to greatly reduce,
and finally, from the empty state of the treasury, altogether withdraw the troops from the northern frontier
states, where, until then, they had afforded protection
against the daily increasing hostilities of the Apaches.
In consequence, all the more immediately exposed mines,
hamlets, and ranches in the states of Chihuahua and Sonora were gradually abandoned, as few of them employed a sufficient number of people to afford a self-sustaining
protection. Prior to this, however, many mines had already been abandoned in Sonora, in consequence of the
uprising of the Opata and Yaqui Indians, who were living in the eastern and southern part of the state, which
caused a sanguinary struggle of some duration. Many
mines were also deserted in consequence of the rebellions
of the Papago and Seri Indians; and although all these
half-civilized tribes were re-subjugated, many mines remained in an abandoned state, or were squatted upon by
gambussinos.
A great many mines, although not situated so near to
the habitats of the savages as to render a residence insecure to life, are in districts devoid of arable lands and
deficient in water power: the reduction of their ores by
the amalgamation process, the principal manipulations of
which were effected by horse or mule power, required a
constant supply of well-conditioned animals; but when
it became impossible to securely keep these in the natural pastures of the country, and their maintenance in stables proved too costly on account of the difficulties of
transit and the consequent high price of provender, many
of these mines were gradually abandoned by their owners, to whom the application of steam power was either
unknown, or, for want of capital, impossible.
Many mines, again, have been abandoned when the
first stretch of poor ore, or a cut in the vein, appeared,
132 
TLte Sierra adre of Xew  fexico.
owing to the want of perseverance and means, or the ignorance and apathy of their owners; while others were
left on account of the abundance of inherent water, for
the extraction of which the here known applications of
windlasses, wims, and drain-tunnels were either found
insufficient or inapplicable. Others, again, were deserted
on account of suffocation, and a great number because
the ores were too rebellious to yield to the simple modes
of reduction known to their ignorant owners. Not unfirequently the owners, before abandoning their mines,
would break out the ore pillars, thereby rendering the
reopening of them by others more difficult and expensive.
All these outward pressures have necessarily operated
most injuriously on the mining interest of the country,
which, in spite of the immense natural mineral wealth of
the country, has been decaying. To look for an improvement of this state of things to the Mexicans alone seems
hopeless indeed. They possess their virtues, but a want
of enterprise, of mutual confidence and spirit of association, of industry and perseverance, which characterizes
them, is not likely to lift them out of their present despondency, and to effect the regeneration of their superb
country.
A foreign element is now required to revive mining in
that part of Mexico, and to restore it to its pristine splendor and productiveness. Several enterprises, undertaken
of late by foreigners, invite imitation, and give cheering
hopes that mining will once more become the mainstay
of the country. Such mines as the Sierra Madre presents m9ust and will be worked as soon as they become
known abroad. It was but recently stated by Sir Rod erick Murchison, the eminent geologist (communicating
to the Royal Geographical Society the results of the trav els of Charles Savin, Esq., who, accompanied by an assay
133 
Arizona and Sonora.
er and practical Cornish miner, had lately visited the Sierra Madre), "that, qwith foreign capital and perseverance,
almost all the mgin6es and veins of that part of Mexico
oZoteld( yield good results;" and the dividends that several
foreign companies have been lately paying incontestably
show that, with proper management, mining investments
in that country are not only safe, but highly remunerative.  Since the discovery of the Washoe silver mines, a
great spirit of enterprise has been manifested by Californians to make investments of this class; but as they can
not all be accommodated near home, it is most proper to
direct them to Northern Mexico, than which no coluntry
can hold out greater indlucements. The field for mining
enterprises here is immense; for, not to mention the infinitude of undeveloped veins, the mines, with but few
exceptions, may be considered as virgin yet; for works
to the depth of 100 yards or so are but surface works,
and offer for centuries yet to come profitable employment to people that may be counted by millions. But it
must not be inferred that Northern Mexico is an immnnecliate field for poor miners, although the day is probably
not far distant when even such may find it to their advantage to transplant themselves to that country.
"To work a mine requires another mine," is an old
Spanish saying, which, like most proverbs, contains a
truth; and although there are many mines in Northern
Mexico which, worked even on a moderate scale, may
and do pay well enough, yet, to insure equable and constantly profitable returns, it can not be repeated too often, necessitates the investment of large capitals. The inducements to mining enterprises in that country, it has
been said already, are very great, and can not fail to attract foreign capital when they become more known,
and when the objection generally raised, "the unsettled
state of political affairs," is properly understood.
134 
The Sierra Madre of Vew Mexico.
The frequent revolutions, changes of government, and
civil wars, which have characterized the Mexican republic
for the last forty years, have made themselves felt in the
frontier states of Chihuahua and Sonora disastrously only
in so far as they caused these states to be left without
sufficient military protection against the hostile Apaches,
otherwise they have not suffered from the "legerdemains"
of the ambitious political and military chiefs who so fiequently usurped the supreme power of the republic.  In
fact, these two states are virtually almost independent
firom Mexico, and their inhabitants trouble themselves
very little about what is going on in the centre of the republic.
The State of Chihuahua has also been singularly exempt from state rebellions and intestine wars; and although there have been "pronunciamentos" which caused
sudden changes in her government, still the people always had the good sense to steer clear of such revolutions as would cause stagnation of trade and lead to
bloodshed.  In the sanguinary war which has aflicted
Mexico during the last five years, and which has struck
at the root of all revolutions to render them difficult for
the future, Chihuahua has escaped almost entirely. Of
late years the Chihuahuenses have done much toward
the progress of their very fine state; and if there be any
body of Mexicans who show themselves superior to fate,
and may, without much foreign help, rebuild their fallen
fortunes, they are surely in the State of Chihuahua, although the general poverty of the people may render it
a very slow process.  It has already been said that this
state, with the rest of Northern Mexico, has suffered
greatly firom the devastations of the Apaches; and although the agricultural and bucolic interests suffered
most, and the great number of magnificent grazing es tates have been more or less ruined, the people have of
135 
Arizona anid Sonora.
late years persecuted the savages so perseveringly and
successfully that the latter have withdrawn, and confined
their marauding expeditions to Sonora, Arizona, and New
Mexico. It is now very rarely indeed that Apache dep redations are heard of in Chihuahua, and consequently
many deserted hamlets and estates have been and are
being reoccupied.
The State of Sonora has suffered more, having had sev eral intestine wars, occasional rebellions of the half-civil ized Indian tribes that inhabit it, and being still overrun
by the Apaches. The greater part of the Sierra Madre
portion of Sonora has, however, by means of its natural
inaccessible character, been exempt from the hostilities
of the Apaches, and has also escaped from the direct results of civil wars. As the Indians have always been
worsted in Sonora, and the people, Creoles as well as aboriginals, are heartily sick and tired of revolutions, it is to
be hoped, and indeed most probable, that in future the
energies of the people will be directed into more productive channels, and that the present reign of peace will be
durable, and conducive to the prosperity of this naturally
rich state.
The inducements to mining enterprises, which are applicable to all parts of Chihuahua, Sonora, and Sinaloa,
are, good mines, liberal mining laws, cheap labor, and a
fine, salubrious climate; to which may be added the favorable disposition of the governors of these states, who
are anxious to attract foreign capitalists to their country,
and will concede to such as many privileges as can reasonably be looked for. The good sense of the different
state governments, political parties, and even half-civilized Indian tribes, in drawing a distinction between natives and foreigners, and not troubling the latter while
they keep aloof from the political quarrels of the former,
is most praiseworthy, and affords a greater security than
136 
The Sierra Xadre of Xewo Mexico.
the best written laws alone could guarantee to foreign
residents. In all other respects the inducements differ
with the nature of the respective veins and their localities. While those mines and veins which are situated
in the lower branches of the Mother Mountains, and isolated mountain ranges of Sonora, are in general nearer to
shipping ports, easier of access, and frequently admit of
wagon transportation, and while most of them are nearer
to the agricultural districts, and can obtain the necessaries
of life more readily and much cheaper, they are generally
entirely deficient in water power and suitable timber for
building purposes and machinery, and, with the exception of those of Alamos, more or less exposed to the depredations and hostilities of the Apaches. Those mines
of Sonora and Chihuahua which are situated in the Sierra Madre have the inestimable advantages of abundance
of water and frequent possible application of water power, any amount of pine and oak timber, pasture in abundance the year round, and natural defenses that in themselves have proved a barrier against revolutionary bands,
and in most parts, also, against the incursions of the
Apaches; but they admit no transportation except on
mule-back, and are more distant fron the salt mines and
agricultural districts than those of the lowlands. Some
parts of the Mother Mountains of Chihuahua, however,
are close to an extensive agricultural district, where produce may be obtained for next to nothing. As regards
the agricultural and pastoral resources of the here men tioned states, they are quite sufficient for the demand
that can ever be made upon them, for they admit of great
extension, if such should become necessary in the course
of time.
The value of the auriferous ores of that section of Mex ico varies as much as in the quartz mines of California,
while the capricious dissemination of gold through its
137 
Arizonta anc Sonora.
gangue renders the working of quartz in the former
country as precarious as in the latter. But veins of silver ore are not capricious, and may be worked for centuries with a sure prospect of a constant yield. In regard
to the richness and value of the argentiferous ores, they
differ, of course, in different veins. It has been asserted,
however, by most intelligent and practical foreign miners,
personally well acquainted with Washoe and Northern
Mexico, " that, as a general rue, the mines and veins of
thae latter greatly sturpass those of the former, and, taking
every thing else into consideration, the inducements  are
nmuch in favor of the Sierra Madre of Mexico."  There
is an indefinite quantity of mines, the ores of which pay
from $50 to $300 per ton; and this asserted estimate is
not based on those worthless tests, "assays of isolated
pieces of rock," but founded on the known proceeds
which the reduced ores of the mines have yielded for
years. In rich stretches of the vein, and when the latter
is in "bonanza," the ores of many mines have frequently
yielded thousands of dollars per ton.
There still remains to consider the acquisition of mines
and veins, on which a word of advice may not be amiss.
In a country like Northern Mexico, groaning under the
weight of its metallic wealth, and abounding in mines
more or less developed, there would appear to be no difficulty about their acquisition. But to secure a valuable
mine, and at the same time to make a good investment,
requires more than the mere possession of a long purse:
it requires experience in mining matters, and necessitates
an intimate acquaintance with the country and the character of the people.
As it is desirable that in the investments of foreign
capital there should be no error committed at the outset,
than which nothing would retard the progress of this
new mining field more, all persons new to the country
138 
The Sierrca i(at(re of -Yeto -kIexico.
had better leave all abandoned mines alone, unless directed to them by persons long resident in the country,
whose character and veracity are undoubted, and who,
after the investigation of all the facts, current accounts,
and traditions, have full confidence in some abandoned
mine or other. There are, undoubtedly, many abandoned
mines that are well worthy of attention and outlay of
capital; but strangers are not likely to know at once
which of the many deserted mines it will be prudent to
meddle with.  Under the present state of things, the
safest investments for new-comers will be those mines
that have bonc fl(le owners; for, as long as a mine can
be advantageously worked, according  to the custom of
the country, it is hardly ever abandoned altogether.
But it must not be imagined that such mines can be obtained for a mere trifle; for their owners are fully alive to
the value of their possessions, and as they are already in
a more or less independent position, and always in expectation of a sudden fortune, they are not anxious to
sell, unless induced by a fair offer. There any many native miners of small means willing to cede part of their
mines on condition that a certain amount of capital be
invested to promote extensive and more profitable operations; but, unless the owners of mines be foreigners, it
is not advisable to enter into such arrangements. Far
better to give a long price for the absolute ownership of
a mine at once.
If foreign capitalists desire to make investments in
Mexican mines, it is necessary that they are liberally inclined; if so, there are undoubtedly proper persons to
be found who will help them to good abandoned mines,
and many owners will be found willing to sell their
mines.  Moneyed Californians may  soon find out that
there are mines in Northern Mexico which will well re pay the reposed trust, and content any reasonable man.
139 
Arizona and Sonora.
CHAPTER VIII.
THE MINES OF JESUS MARIA AND SAN JOSE.*
Condition of Mining in Mexico. -Wealth of the old Spanish Miners.
-The Faults of their Successors.-A European Superintendent of
the Jesus Maria Mines.-M. Augustus Remuley.-Abandonment of
the Mines.-Recent Movements.-Present Prospects.-The Mines
near Jesus Maria and Jose.-Nuestra Senora del Rayo.-Santa Mar garita.-San Jose del Rosario.-Candelaria.-San Rafael.-Haci enda Quintana.-General Notes.
As you are personally acquainted with the mining district of "Jesus Maria," you will be able to give much
valuable information on that head; and, besides, I think
that the mining region of the "Sierra Madre" is sufficiently famed to be known in the United States and in
Europe. Yet, what must strike persons not personally
acquainted with Mexico most, and requires explanation,
is the fact that there are so many good mines in an abandoned state, and that many of those that are known to
be of inherent richness and steadily worked, do so seldom enrich their owners. You and I, and many hundred
others of foreign residents in this country, know the reason of this; but persons abroad can hardly imagine that
in a country like this, famed for its mineral wealth, there
should be so little theoretical and practical knowledge
of mining-of labor-saving machinery-of practical application of scientific inventions-that, in short, every thing
should be managed in pretty much the same style as a
century ago.  Want of enterprise, or of capital in enterprising men; want of mutual confidence and considera * Notes on the Mineral of Jesus Maria y Jose, etc., by A. W. C.
BRAwNS, Esq.
140 
The Mines of Jesus Maria and San Jose.
tion; want of security in many localities on one hand,
and an almost total want of industry and perseverance,
of prudence, forethought, and economy on the other, are
among the principal reasons of the decay into which this
most important pursuit has fallen of late.
The many millions of gold and silver yearly exported
from this republic attest the abundance and richness of
the Mexican mines; yet this product, as you well know,
is as nothing to what they might produce under a different state of things. Almost all the old Spaniards who
worked mines in this country after the discovery of its
mineral wealth realized fortunes so rapidly and easily
that their successors thought their fortunes assured by
merely being the owners of mines, altogether forgetting
that it was also indispensable to personally look after
their business, and to practice economy and prudence.
Their riotous mode of life, their laziness and negligence,
no mine in the world was rich enough to sustain, and,
consequently, when a " borasca" made its appearance, as
it will in every mine once in a while, they not only found
themselves without the means of indulging in farther
luxury and extravagance, but also without the necessary
funds to pierce through the "poor ores" and dead rock
in order to strike the "rich ores" again. Credit under
such circumstances they could not obtain - for who
would trust a gambling spendthrift?-consequently, were
obliged to sell or abandon mines that had produced millions.  Their successors, no sooner did they strike a "bo nanza" than, either by inclination or seduced by others,
they commenced to enjoy life in pretty much the same
manner, which, with very few exceptions, ended in like
results. "Like master, like man;" the overseers and
servants, finding the business left entirely in their own
hands, soon began to think that a few pounds of ore ev ery day, more or less, made no difference to their masters,
141 
Arizona and ASon,2ora.
and would never be missed; and, being excellent judges
of ore, they always selected the very richest for themselves-ore so rich that a few pounds of it often enabled
them to imitate their mnaster's gambling and carousing
on a small scale. Yet this working of mines, and living
in great profusion and pleasurable excitement, in the
hope of a speedy fortune, was too good to be monopolized by Mexicans alone.
The fame of the rich mines had spread to Europe, and
induced men of capital to come out or to send representatives. The example of one foreigner, whose name it
would be cruel to mention, wiill exemplify the case of
many of his class who sunk fortunes in this manner.  Ile
had been sent out by a joint stock company to inspect
the mines and veins of "Jesus M1aria," and to invest a
considerable capital in some of them, with a view of realizing fifty per cent. per annum on it. Furnished with
plenty of introductory letters, he no sooner made his appearance at this mining town than its elite, rejoiced to see
a new face, overwhelmed him with profuse hospitalities,
shortening the nights, and many of the days too, with
the excitement of gambling and all sorts of debauchery.
Pleased and gratified by this warm reception in a strange
land, he deemed himself in honor bound to show his appreciation by a return of similar hospitalities; and thus
dinners, balls, picnics, shooting and fishing parties, with
bands of music hired for the nonce at a couple of hundred
dollars, and Champagne at fifty dollars a basket, not to
mention the other questionable inventions for killing time,
was the order of the day for six months in succession.
Being far removed from Europe, it took a long time to
correspond; but at last answers arrived from home to
letters which he had dispatched after his arrival (and
which had been filled with glowing accounts of the wealth
of the "Jesus Maria mines" and their owners), express
142 
S'he -Ylites of Jesees 1l(lria a)cnd Scan Jose.       143
ing the hope of soon hearing the result of his investments.
Brought to his senses, and overcomne with shame at having squandered nearly half of the capital intrusted to his
care, he bethought himself of some profitable investment,
and of eschewing his riotous friends. Having purchased
a good but neglected mine, which required the construction of a drain-tunnel, and other expensive works, to be reopened, he went to work in earnest, and soon expended
the remaining capital in the prosecution of these works,
without, however, completing them. After he had duly
notified his constituents at home that, in order to complete the commenced works and to work the mine, another large sum would have to be remitted to him, he was
startled with the orders of the shareholders to abandon
an enterprise that, from the large outlays already made
without any tangible results and proofs, promised to be a
most unprofitable investment. Disgusted, he left for parts
unknown, a victim to the reckless life in a Mexican mining town; and since that time foreign capitalists have
been shy of Jesus Maria mining investments.  Yet, had
he strictly attended to his business, and invested the subscribed capital entirely in the enterprise, there is no doubt
that good results would have crowned the undertaking.
It is but just to give another example attesting the richness of a " Jesus Maria" mine-that of MIr. Augustin Remuley, a poor French gentleman, who, in order to better
his fortune, had been induced to accept the situation of
administrador of the mine of "Santa Juliana," with an
annual salary of $480, his board and lodging, and three
per cent. of the net profits of the mine.  He realized in
one year $37,000 of his own, while the fortunate owners
of this celebrated mine shortly after became bankrupt,
with a deficit of nearly half a million of dollars, likewise
victims of extravagance and gambling.
Is it to be wondered at that, under such a regime', the 
Arizona and Sonora.
pursuit of mining should gradually have fallen into decay
and general disrepute, and that this most important branch
of industry should have been languishing of late years for
want of capital, of credit, and of confidence in it, when
the apathy and demoralization of the people have had the
tendency to cause a general retrogression and gradual
impoverishment of the whole country? For the last few
years the mines of "Jesus Maria," like many of those of
other localities, have either been wholly abandoned, or
been worked by gambussinos alone, which latter people
soon render a mine unworkable, and cause its total abandonment. A foreign element is now required to revive
mining in this country, and to restore it to its former pristine splendor and productiveness. Several enterprises,
undertaken of late by foreigners, give cheering hopes, and
invite imitation, that mining will soon be restored, and
become again the mainstay of the country. Since the discovery of the silver mines at Washoe, Nevada Territory,
United States, the American capitalists have become better acquainted with the profitableness of mining investments, and a very great spirit of mining enterprise is now
manifested by Californians to make investments in this
country. Purchases of mines have been effected in this
and the neighboring state of Sinaloa at very high figures,
and other conditional purchases have been made by speculators, while each vessel of late arrived from San Francisco has brought its mining prospectors in great force,
so that the regeneration of this section of the country
seems to be near at hand.
I have been thus prolix on this head, because I think it
necessary to the object you have in view to show the real
causes of the many disastrous results of mining investments in this country, and to disabuse the public mind
abroad of the too often predisposed unfavorable opinion
of the Mexican mines.  It was but recently stated by Sir
144 
The Mines of Jesus Maria and San Jose.
Roderick Murchison, the eminent president of the Royal
Geographical Society, communicating to the R. G. Society
the results of the travels of Mr. Charles Savin, F.R.G.S.
(who, accompanied by an assayer and practical Cornish
miner, had visited the Sierra Madre in Sinaloa and Chihuahua), "that, with British capital and perseverance, almost all the mines and veins of this part of the world
would yield good returns;" and the dividends that several foreign companies in this republic have of late been
paying incontestably show that, with proper management,
investments in the mines of this country are not only safe,
but also highly remunerative. And it should also be
borne in mind that the mines, with but few exceptions,
may be said to be virgin yet; for works to the depth of a
hundred yards or so are but surface works, and offer, for
centuries yet to come, profitable employment to people
that may be counted by millions.
I now proceed to give a detailed description of the different mines, and the ore-reducing establishment, owned
by Messrs. Gutierrez, Andreo, and Brawns, in the immediate neighborhood of the mining town of Jesus Maria
and Jos6, in the State of Chihuahua, Republic of Mexico.*
I. 2Vtestra Senora (lel Rayo.-This mine was discovered shortly after the discovery of the mine of "Jesus
Maria," from which the mining town obtained its name,
in the year 1823, and is situated in the western range of
mountains of the Creek (arroyo) of Jesus Maria, at a distance of about half a mile from the town. The " Rayo"
was discovered at the same time as the celebrated "Santa
Juliana" Mine, from which it is about 500 varas distant.
Its first owners were Messrs. Thomas Suza and Thomas
Rivera, who worked it successfully, with good results in
* These notes are introduced as the most extended and accurate in
reference to the Sicrra Madre mines, the characteristic being the same
in Sonora and Chihuahua.-S. M.
G
145 
Arizona acnd Sonora.
gold and silver, according to the accounts of trustworthy
persons still living at Jesus Maria, and abandoned it on
the discovery of the "bonanza" (extremely rich ores) in
the "Santa Juliana" Mine, of which they were part owners. This happened in the year 1826. Afterward Messrs.
Siqueiros Brothers worked the mine, but abandoned it
Later on account of suffocation, caused by their having
worked the shafts and drifts in a very narrow and disorderly style. For about twenty-five years the "Rayo"
remained abandoned, being only occasionally worked by
"gambussinos."  These are poor, petty miners, who work
without license and without order; break out ore here
and there, wherever most handy and easy, and, to save
labor and time (they doing all the work personally), generally throw the offal ores and dead rock in the shafts and
drifts not occupied by them; so that, when a mine once
is squatted upon by these petty miners, it is sure soon to
be rendered unfit for working, requiring a large expenditure of labor and money to reopen it. In consequence,
they soon brought the mine into an unworkable state, and
were compelled to abandon it.
In the year 1850, IMr. J. C. Henriquez, knowing the
mine to have been left in good ores, "denounced" it with
a view to its restoration and possession, and at the present moment (month of May, 1861) the entire mine is
cleaned and restored. In this undertaking over $5000
have been expended. Since, the mine has been purchased
by AIr. Ramon Andreu; he is occupying twenty miners
per day, although there is room and occasion to occupy
from 140 to 150 operatives with ease and profit.
The extent of possession of the "Rayo" Mine is 700
varas; the lowest depth as yet reached about seventy
varas vertically, the vein having an inclination of from
15~ to 20~, and running firom east to west. The works
of the mine are as follows: above there is a drift-shaft
146 
The iines of Jesus Maria and San Jose.   147
(tajo) forty varas deep, twenty-five varas long, and five
varas wide in firm walls, whence two shafts have been
sunk, each fifteen varas deep, six varas long, and three
and a half varas wide, leaving a pillar fourteen by fifteen
varas between. From thence two other shafts of the
same dimensions have been sunk, one of which is at present eleven, and the other ten varas deep. The intention
is firom thence to run a large drift, in order to give more
room for operatives to be employed. The vein, in all its
parts, in the sides of the drifts and shafts, presents ores
of the same class as the accompanying samples. In order to ventilate the mine, it has been necessary to lessen
the size of the pillars and to widen the walls, in the doing of which a new vein of auriferous and argentiferous
quartz has been met with, of which the sample, marked
"El Rayo," is a fair specimen. This vein is of a width
of two inches, and about half a vara from the other upper
vein, so that all the different veins can be worked together in one and the same shaft. Samlple No. 1, marked
" Nstra. Sra. del Rayo," is from this upper vein, and likewise two inches thick; No. 2 is from the middle vein,
and nine inches thick; No. 3 is from the lower vein,
which is from seven to ten inches in thickness. As already said, the uppermost one is divided by dead rock
half a vara thick from No. 1, and the dead rock between
No. 1 and 2 and between No. 2 and 3 is from four to five
inches thick. These four distinct veins are running parallel to each other. It is the general opinion of practical
miners that these different veins at a greater depth will
unite into one solid body or vein of from sixteen to eighteen inches in thickness. The ley of the ores of No. 1, 2,
and 3, according to the last operations made in this last
month of May in the common Mexico mode of "beneficio" (reduction), was twenty-four ounces of auriferous
silver per mule-load of 300 lbs.=160 ounces per ton of 
Arizona and sonora.
2000 lbs. The intrinsic value of the silver of the Rayo
Mine, according to the statement of the government assayer of the district Rayon, was 11 d. gr. 2 silver, 100 gr.
gold, realizing $11 per marc at Jesus Maria prices. The
ore, sample marked "E1 Rayo," discovered in widening
the walls, when first discovered at the end of last year,
contained more silver than gold, yielding at the rate of
$1500 silver and $100 gold per carga of 300 lbs.; afterward it changed more into gold, like the sample marked
"E1 Rayo," of which fourteen pounds produced $800 in
gold, which is at the rate of more than $100,000 per ton
of 2000 lbs.  Later it changed again into its former state,
as when first met with, in which it is at the present moment. All the indications are that the present is its normal state, and that more or less rich pockets of gold will
be found at uncertain distances. The different ores of
the Rayo Mine are docile in their reduction, undergoing
the common Spanish amalgamation process. The Rayo
Mine offers many advantages: being near the top of a
mountain range, from 300 to 400 varas high above the
creek, there is no probability of its working being interfered with by water until the level of the creek has been
reached, which will necessarily take many years; while
in case of suffocation, or for an easier mode of extracting
the ores, tunnels could with facility be run into the
mountain at a cost of from $5000 to $6000.  The entrance of the mine being on an almost perpendicular side
of the mountain, slides could easily be erected-timber
being abundant, and at three miles' distance from it-so
that the ore and dead rock would be placed at the foot
of the mountain, alongside of the creek, whence it is hardly half a mile to the hacienda "Quintana."
II. Santa Margarita.-This mine is situated at the
Rosario, about three miles distant from Jesus Maria, and
was formerly worked by Messrs. Gutierrez, Guerenfa & Co.
148 
TlIe Mines of esus Maria agd San Jose.   149
The vein is steep, slanting from one half to one vara wide,
its gangue being lime-spath, with virgin gold of 960 nm.
ley per ton.  The accompanying sample ores are fair
average ore. The vein runs from east to west, 2~ inclined north, and the extent of its possession is eight
hundred varas. The mine is at present full of water, on
account of the works having been suspended during the
last two years, but can be drained with a "malacate"
(large windlass and buckets moved by horse power) in
about a week, as has been done on several previous occasions, when the working of the mine had been temporarily suspended. Once drained, and working only in daytime, the water which collects during the night is extracted in the morning in the course of an hour or two.
There are three shafts, the deepest seventy-one varas
deep, a connection drift of fifteen varas between two of
them, and another drift fifty varas long; besides these, an
interior drain drift has been commenced, which lacks but
from fifteen to twenty varas to reach the surface. This
drift is following the course of the vein.   The mine
drained and in its present state, without commencing the
construction of any new shafts and drifts, there is room
to employ at once sixteen miners.  The best class ore extracted during the week has always paid the current expenses, and frequently more; thus the second class ore
and the " brosa" (common ore) may be said to constitute
the profit. The common ore (brosa) has always paid
half an ounce per load of 300 lbs.=-$72 per ton of 2000
lbs.; the second class ore up to three mares per arroba
of 25 lbs.-=$25,960 per ton; and the best ore up to eight
mares per 25 lbs. arroba-$71,680 per ton of 2000 lbs.,
according to the prices obtained for this gold at Jesus
Maria, where it sells at from $12 to $14 per ounce, though
worth more.
The working of "Santa Margarita" has several times 
'Arizona and Sonora.
been suspended and recommenced; it was last suspended
two years ago. The only cause of these suspensions has
been the thieving propensity of the mining population of
this country, and the great difficulty of obtaining trust worthy people to oversee the operatives and servants;
this cause, which is the most serious drawback to the
successful working of very rich veins in this country by
small capitalists, would, however, prove no hinderance to
a company of large means, that can afford to import men
as overseers from abroad, or that, by working on a large
scale, can afford to offer such salaries to their employcs
as would induce young Mexicans of good and respectable
character and connections to accept such employ.
The improvements belonging to the "Santa Margarita"'
Mine consist of one stone building of two rooms and veranda, in order, and close to the entrance of the mine, and
a "malacate" (large horse windlass), which, together with
its roof and foundation wall, requires some repairs if its
use should be continued, though it would be better to substitute a force-pump and steam-engine for the extraction
of the ores and water, as the latter, at a greater depth,
will undoubtedly increase, the works of the mine being
already below the level of the water of the adjoining
brook. An outlay of firom $4000 to $5000 would place
this mine in working condition, if the malacate use should
be continued; with force-pump and engine a much larger
capital would be required. At a distance of about half a
mile from this mine there is a creek that has sufficient
water to drive machinery by means of a turbine, if it
should be desirable to reduce the ores near to the mine,
instead of taking them on mule-back (the only practicable
mnode of transportation) to Jesus Maria, a distance of
three miles. Water, wood, timber, and grass are plentiful
and close to the mine; the adjoining and surrounding
lands belong to the state, and are open to denouncement,
consequently can be easily and chea)ly obtained
150 
The lMines of Jesus Maria and San Jose.
III. San Jose del -Rosario.-This gold mine is adjoining the Santa Margarita Mine, and by many supposed to
be the same vein. The vein is almost perpendicular, and
from half to one vara wide.  There are several shafts and
drifts, the deepest about sixty varas deep, but these are
mostly filled up with rubbish, offal ore, dead rock, and rain
water. It has two drain tunnels, and admits of the formation of others, the construction of one of which would
not exceed the sum of $6000 expenses. The best and second class ore pays a similar ley as that of" Santa Margarita," while the broza (common and inferior cley) pays from
three to four dollars per load of 300 lbs., and the "polvillos" (heavy residue of the ground and washed ore) pays
six ounces "zaroche," at $6 the ounce, to the twenty-five
pound arroba.  (Zaroche is the Mexican name for gold of
low color, containing silver.) In the deepest shaft silverbearing ore has already been met with, an indication that
this ore, like most of the auriferous ores of this region,
will change into silver when a greater depth has been
reached. The proceeds of this mine obtained by the first.
owners were so great, that once one load of three hundred
pounds realized $10,000.
The mine, discovered in the beginning of this century,
was first worked by Messrs. Zuza and Lumbier; and it is
but just to mention that the heaviest capital of the State
of Chihuahua, which is that of MZr. Jose Cordero, son-inlaw of the late MIr. Zuza, and which amounts to several
millions, owes its origin to this mine.  Later, the mine
has been worked by Mr. Ferdinand Altario. The principal reasons of its having been abandoned were the diminution of the ley; the depth of the mine, which, although
not considerable, proved an impediment to men deficient in all knowledge of useful and scientific contrivances, and far removed from all necessary resources; but
principally the discovery of the neighboring "Santa Mar
151 
Arizona and Sonora.
garita" vein with its magnificent ores, and the discovery
of the "bonanza" (extremely rich ores) in the " Santa Juliana" Mine in 1824 and 1825. Since that time the mine
has been occasionally worked by gambussinos, who, according to their lazy and negligent way of working, soon
filled up the mine with dead rock, which they were too
indolent to carry out. The mine, it is asserted by all who
know it, is still in good ore, and can be drained and
cleaned with a malacate in the course of a month or two,
employing from ten to twelve men; once free and clean,
it will admit of a good number of miners being advantageously employed. The extent of possession of San Jose
del Rosario is 800 varas. There are no improvements
belonging to the mine; otherwise it possesses the same
local advantages as the Santa Margarita Mine.  No samples.
IV. Canclelaria.-This mine is situated about one and
a half or two miles from the town of Jesus M,aria; the
vein is almost perpendicular, and from one to one and a
half feet wide. The deepest shaft is about ninety varas.
The vein has been steadily and gradually increasing, a sure
indication of its present character. The ore is very hard,
but docile in the amalgamation process. The lowest yield
has never been less than $48 in gold and silver per load
of 300 lbs.=$320 per ton of 2000 lbs., though it is generally much more, some ore having assayed as high as $3243
per ton of 2000 lbs.  The gold of this mine sells at Jesus
Maria at $10 the ounce. The samples of ore marked
"Candelaria, Jesus MIaria," are good class ore; the others,
Nos. 4 and 5, common ore (broza).  In the bottom of the
mine there is a drift in ore twenty varas long, where
tWenty-five miners can easily work at one and the same
time, thus allowing seventy-five miners to be employed
during the twenty-four hours, without opening new shafts
and drifts.
152 
The liy2es of esus Maria and Sat Jose.
Candelaria was last worked by Mr. J. Quintana, who
suspended the working of it some years ago while erecting machinery for the reduction of ores. In this he expended his capital, and when ready to recommence operations in the mine, he found that the gambussinos, having
undermined the foundation walls of the malacate in order
to get at the offal ore of the "terrero," had destroyed the
strength and safety of it, and that it consequently was risking the lives of servants and animals to make use of it
without rebuilding it. Indeed, shortly after the whole
concern came down firom the effects of a rain-storm. Being without the necessary resources to defiray its reconstruction, and unwilling to involve himself in debt, the
mining operations of Candelaria remained suspended, and
as Mr. Quintana very shortly after died, the mine was
abandoned, and has remained in that state for the last few
years, for the want of men of enterprise and capital. The
mine, being on the top of a mountain range some four
hundred varas high above the creek, has but little inherent water as yet, but is full of rain water; it admits of
drain tunnels being made, which may cost from $6000 to
$10,000, and requires the reconstruction of a foundation
wall for a malacte, which, together with the clearing of
the mine, would probably cost some $5000. The possession contains some eight hundred varas.
V. San _Rafael.-This mine is distant three quarters
of a mile from the town of Jesus Maria, and was worked
first after its discovery by Messrs. Andrew Reducich and
Joseph Lopez until the year 1839, when the working was
suspended in consequence of the death of the former.
Some years later the mine passed into the possession of
Messrs. R. Jaquez, I. Parada, and E. Vidal, who worked
it until 1861, when Mr. Ramon Andren rented the mine
for two years; the latter stopped working it on account
of some difficulties he had with the owners. The vein is
G2
153 
Arizona and So)zora.
nearly perpendicular, running from south to north, with
an inclination of from 15~ to 20~ east, and is about one and
a half feet wide on the average. In the bottom of the
lowest shaft, which is about fifty-five to sixty varas deep,
two drifts have been commenced; in one of them the vein
is scattered, but in the other compact, with very fair indications of its changing into a large vein. Since Mr.
Andreu abandoned the working of the mine, the gambussinos have destroyed and filled up with rubbish the shafts
from the main entrance to a depth of from twenty to
twenty-five varas, where there is the first drift, whence
two other shafts of from thirty to thirty-five varas depth,
with their respective drifts, have not been touched by the
"gambussinos," on account of having filled with rain
water shortly after the suspension of the work by Mr.
Andreu.
From the entrance of the mine to within five varas of
the lowest depth as yet reached, the vein has been more
or less scattered, not having any decided compactness;
but in the last shaft, sunk from the bottom drift, the vein
has become compact. There are no sample ores extant,
and can not be obtained without first cleaning the mine;
but the gold is soft, and docile in the amalgamation process; the lowest ley has never been less than one mare per
load of 300 lbs.; the "polvillos" paying from two to three
mares silver per 25 lbs. arroba, consequently the lowest
ley has never been less than $110 per ton of 2000 lbs. at
the price of silver at Jesus Maria, and this silver, being
auriferous, there realized $16 per mare.  The mine "San
Rafael" has always paid a profit; it can be drained of the
rain water in the Mexican fashion, with common handpumps; but if a malacate should be used the shafts would
require straightening, as the mine has been worked in the
"patio y patillo" fashion.  The mine is on the top of the
western range of mountains, some four hundred varas
154 
]'lie fiiieg of Jess [ffaia and San Jose.    155
high, and admits the construction of drain tunnels, which
would have to be somewhere about one hundred and fifty
varas in length, and such tunnel ill all probability, nay,
certainly, would cross other veins running in the same direction, and which, where worked, have given very good
results. The extent of possession of " San Rafael" is likewise eight hundred varas.
VI. ffeaciencla Quinztana.-This establishment for the
reduction and amalgamation of ores is situated in the
centre of the mining town Jesus M1aria, and consists of
three stamps and eight arrastras, all the machinery of
which is moved by an overshot wheel thirty-three feet in
diameter, and reduces three and a half tons of ore per
twenty-four hours. It contains all the required adjuncts,
is in good order and ill daily use, and is fed by the creek
of Jesus Maria, which generally has water enough for
the use of machinery in the different establishments ttn
months in the year, and in many years all the year round.
GeneralN otes.-The mining town of Jesus Maria, situated in the Sierra Madre, at a distance of about 250 miles
firom the ports of Agiabampo and Guaymas, on the Gulf
of California, and about 200 miles fiom the city of Chi huahua, has never been affected by the several revolu tions which have occurred in the states of Chihuahua and
Sonora, and which in the former state are of a rather in nocent nature; nor is this region exposed to the depre dations of the Camanche and Apache Indians, who infest
other parts of the two mentioned states; it offers, there fore, by its favored situation in the heart of lofty mount ain ranges, security to mining enterprise. The neighbor hood of Jesus Maria is famous for the abundance and
richness of its metallic veins.  Most of them, although
they have been more or less worked, may be said to be
virgin yet, hardly having been worked to a greater depth
than 1 00 varas at most. The only exception to this is the 
Arizona and Sonora.
mine of Santa Juliana, which has been worked to a depth
of 400 varas, and been abandoned on account of its abundance of water. Almost all the ores of this region, al though in most of them silver forms the principal ingre dient, are more or less auriferous, so that its silver commands a higher market value than usual. The ores are
likewise docile in their reduction, and undergo the amalgamation process.
The town of Jesus Maria is some 5000 feet above the
sea, and enjoys a temperate, delightful, and healthy climate; its population is estimated at 3000. Being not far
removed-fifty to a hundred miles-from the different
agricultural villages of the district of Concepcion, provisions are much cheaper in this than in most other mining
towns, and owing to the abundance of mines formerly extensively worked, there is a numerous body of operatives
to facilitate the undertaking of extensive enterprises.
Timber and fuel are abundant, and at no great distance
from town-the former mostly pine and oak; the creek of
Jesus Mlaria having sufficient water for the use of machinery ten months in the year, and often the whole year
round, although all the available spots for the application
of water power in the immediate neighborhood are already
private property, and built up with haciendas. Sonme of
these, however, could be purchased at reasonable prices,
as, for instance, the haciendas "Guadalupe" and "Carmen," both together having nine stamps and twenty arrastras, formerly belonging to Messrs. Lopez and Valois.
Common miners earn $1 per task, working overseers
from $10 to $12 per week, and all other servants four
reals - two shillings sterling per day - payable half in
goods, half in money. Salt is generally worth $12 per
fanega of 300 lbs.; quicksilver from $45 to $50 per flask
of 75 lbs.; maize, $1 75 to 82 25 the fanega of 220 lbs.;
wheat, $3 the fanega; beeves, from $10 to $20 per head,
156 
Tlye Minzes of Jesus fl[aria and San Jose.        157
averaging from 350 to 500 lbs. gross weight; grass fodder, 50 cts. per load of 225 lbs. Freight firom Agiabampo to Jesus MIaria, $12 to $14 per mule-load of 300 lbs.
There is an " oficina de quintar" (metal stamp and assay
office) established by government at Jesus Maria, where
gold and silver receives the stamp of currency.  Although
for the last years no mine has been regularly worked, in
this stamp and assay office have been monthly stamped
above $11,500 for the last three years, the produce of the
work of " gambussinos;" and when it is taken into consideration that at least one third of the gold and silver
of the country never receives the stamp, an annual production of $150,000 to $200,000 by petty miners alone
should go far to prove the richness of the neglected mines
of this district or town of Jesus Maria; for if the worst
mining style, or no style at all, can produce such a result,
what may not well-directed energy and capital effect in
this yet virgin field? 
Arizona and( Sonora.
CHAPTER IX.
MINERALOGICAL SKETCH OF ARIZONA.*
Limits of Arizona.-Topography.-Geological Structure.-Character
of the Vegctation.-The Plains.-The Table-lands.-Rivers, Fount ains, and Wclls.-Arable and grazing Land.-Part of the great
Mineral Region.-The Hecintzelman Mine.-Character of the Ores.
-Their Order of Deposit.-Processes of Reduction.-Defects in the
Processes.-Wages and other Expcnses.-Results, actual and pros pective. -The Plain of Arivaca.- Santa Rita Mines.- Cahuabi
Mincs.-The San Pedro Mines.-Lead Mines.-The Mowry Silver
Mines.-Various Mines and Ores.-Plancha de la Plata.-General
Conclusions.
ARIZONA proper, or the Gadsden Purchase, is that part
of our frontier which has the Rio Grande and the Coloradlo Rivers for its eastern and western, and the Gila
River and Mexican boundary-line for its northern and
southern limits. It thus extends over both slopes of the
Sierra Madre, which here loses its continuous character,
giving rise to almost unconnected mountain groups. It
is also traversed from N.W. to S.E. by granitic sierras
seldom over seventy to ninety miles in length, and distant
from each other from twenty to forty miles. This configuration gives rise to a most remarkable occurrence of
parallelism.
The intervals between these ranges are plains, having
a gradual descent from the sierras on either side. In the
western part of the Territory, where but little rain falls,
* Miner-alogical Sicetch of the Silver Mines of Arizona, read before
the California Academy of Natural Sciences, August 5, 1861, by R.
PUMPELLY, Esq., Metallurgist and Mining Engineer, Graduate of the
Mining College at Freiberg, etc., etc. Published in the Proceedings
of the Academy, vol. ii., 1862.
158 
Mineralogical Sketch of Arizona.
water-courses are very rare, and the surface of these tracts
is almost unbroken; but in the central portion, near the
larger mountains, they present the appearance of extensive valleys, and are cut up by river beds and frequent
tributary calions. These plains are all connected, and
form members of the immense quaternary deposits, extending from the Gulf of California eastward.
The quaternary formation is stratified, and composed
of both rounded and angular rocks, with pebbles and
sand, the detritus of the neighboring mountains and the
underlying formations.  A  gradual and regular descent
of the surface of the whole quaternary area toward the
Gulf of California and the Colorado River is perceptible,
showing that there has been a gradual elevation extending over a large area, and probably during a long lapse
of time. That this upheaval is of very recent date is
proven by the presence of existing species of marine
shells scattered over the surface.
As I have already said, the majority of the mountain
ranges are granitic, but we find in many places, and especially those where the parallelism is disturbed, extensive representations of other formations.  Usually, outcroppings of gneiss, micaceous, talcose, and clay slates are
observable, underlying the quaternary at the base of the
granitic ranges. In many places the plains consist entirely of the detritus of these rocks, showing that they extend from mountain to mountain. Toward the Gulf of
,California these slates are accompanied by metamorphic
limestone, and often appear forming independent ridges,
or inclined against the higher granite hills. They form
the gold region of Sonora, and are probably of the same
age as the similar formations of California, of which, indeed, they seemn to be the continuation. We find them
rising out of the desert, at intervals, firom Sonora to the
Gila River and the Colorado, and again underlying the
159 
Arizona and Sonora.
tertiary on the western skirt of the Colorado desert, and
at various points in Southern California.
Near the coast, and traversed by the boundary-line, is
a very interesting volcanic formation. The country is
studded over with volcanic cones, some containing craters; immense streams of lava cross the desert, or cover,
as with a mantle, high granite hills.
The next formation of importance is that of the stratified conglomerates. These occur in strata of very variable thickness and texture, but all are composed for the
most part of fragments of quartziferous porphyry, cemented by a feldspathic mass, also quartziferous. This
formation is traversed by intrusive dikes of a porphyry
of a similar character to many of the fragments inclosed
in the conglomerates.
There is also a great variety of porphyries,both quartziferous and free from quartz, and these are the rocks
which for the most part stand in the closest connection
with the veins of the country. Many of these porphyries
appear to be the result of metamorphic action in sedimentary rocks, but others have every characteristic of an
eruptive origin.
Lastly, dikes of a trachytic porphyry and of a cellular
black rock, usually in connection with a reddish wacke
and a sandstone, are observable at various points through
the country.
Climatic influences have given the country a marked
and peculiar character of vegetation. Toward the coast
the plains are barren and arid deserts, and the traveler
may ride hundreds of miles without seeing other plants
than dry and thorny cacti and scattered bushes of greasewood.  The granite mountains bordering these deserts
are even more barren. Not a tree, nor even a cactus,
can be seen on their sides. They tower high above the
plains, great masses of white, reflecting the rays of the
160 
Mineralogical Sketch of Arizona.
sun with dazzling brilliancy. The only water to be found
over an area of many thousand miles is at a few points in
the mountains, where the rains have collected in natural
tanks sufficient to last for a few months. During the
rainy season, which often nearly fails, shallow pools are
formed in slight depressions on the surface, but a few
days' sun is sufficient to exhaust these sources.
Farther from the coast the plains begin to show more
vegetation; gradually appear the palo verde, the mesquit, and a greater variety of cacti, and on the hills scattered saguaras (Cereus gigcta,teus); until, in the eastern
portion of the Papagoria, the country is more thickly covered with a low growth of mesquit and palo verde brush,
above which looms a perfect forest of the columnar s,guara.
East of the Baboquiveri range the character of the
country changes; the plains are cut in the direction of
the longer axis by deep valleys, receiving tributary calons from the mountains on either side, and all that remains to show their original character are the cut-up
m)esas or table-lands, lying between the river and the sierras.  These mesas retain, indeed, much of the desert
appearance, but they are clothed with bunch and gramma grass, and scattered mesquit bushes.  l1any of the
valleys have an extensive growth of mesquit, and along
the river beds in the neighborhood of hidden or running
water grow large cottonwood trees, and in some places
fine ash timber. On the hill-sides, above the level of the
mesas, are scattered the live oak of the country, the trees
varying from twelve to twenty-five feet in height, giving
the country the appearance of an old orchard. As we
ascend the mountains, the oaks are mingled with the cedar, until, at an elevation of about 6000 feet above the
level of the sea, the pine region commences.
Owing to the peculiar structure of the river beds,
161 
Ai-'izo),ta  Ct})ict i5O~bOt)(t.
which run through loose quaternary deposits, the water
falling during the rainy season soon sinks out of sight
and follows its course underground, appearing only where
the underlying older formations rise, or where the valley
is crossed by a dike, in either case natural dams being
formed.  These occurrences are sometimes of sufficient
extent to form running streams for several miles, although
usually either only a spring is formed, or more fiequently
water is obtained by digging.
These valleys of Central Arizona, as well as the mesas
and hill-sides, are covered with an abundant growth of
different grasses, forming extensive tracts of grazing
country. There are not many localities suitable for cultivation, these being confined to such places as have running water for a considerable distance, which can be conducted in canals for irrigation.
Arizona forms a link in the great chain of mining regions that stretches along the western side of the continent.  Though but a small portion of the country has
been explored, yet between the Rio Grande and the Colorado numerous districts of great mineral wealth have
been discovered, and on some of them more or less labor
expended. The Mexicans have, at various times since
the middle of the last century, commenced workings on
a great number of veins, but, owing to the continued inroads of the Apaches, but little was accomplished by
them.
After the conclusion of the Gadsden treaty, Messrs.
Poston and Ehrenberg, with a small party, entered the
country, and, after prospecting a large number of localities, found the Heintzelman vein. The results of an examination of this proved so satisfactory, that considerable
attention was drawn toward that part of New Mexico.
Joint-stock companies, with little ready capital and immense expectations, were formed. Speculators bought in
162 
Mineralogical SketcI of Arizonia.
stock for ten per cent. of its nominal value, and sold out
at from fifty per cent. to ninety per cent. to tradesmen
and widows, too poor to meet assessments when means
for working were absolutely necessary.  Men were put
in charge who had never seen a mine, and usually with
no professional assistance.  The results of enterprises conducted in a similar manner are well known.  Between
the absence of available funds on the one hand, and of
protection to life and property on the other, enterprise
was already beginning to stagnate, when the withdrawal
of the troops made the abandonment of the country absolutely necessary.
The most important of the mines already known and
worked is the Heintzelman, or Cerro Colorado, belonging
to the Sonora Mining Company. It is situated west of
Tubac, about twenty-four miles by road. The vein runs
north and south, has a nearly vertical dip, and is inclosed
in a brown porphyry, free from quartz, and containing illdefined crystals of feldspar. The thickness of the lode is
firom twelve to twenty inches. A vertical main shaft has
been commenced, with the expectation of intersecting the
vein at a depth of 200 feet, but it is only completed to
about 120 feet. This shaft communicates by cross-cuts,
at 60 and 100 feet, with two galleries.
The ore is separated by hand into two classes, rendered
necessary by the difference in their chemical character
and in their richness in silver. The first class consists of
the more massive and richer ore, composed of Stromeyerite, tetrahedrite, blende, and galena, with native silver;
the gangue is quartz, with some barytes, and the carbonates of magnesia and lime. The blende and galena are so
predominant-in this class as to render the ore unfit for
amalgamation, while the percentage of silver in the Stromeyerite is too great to allow of its being treated profitably in the barrels.  This class represents about ten per
163 
Arizona and Sonora.
cent. of the entire amount of ore, and the average of its
yield of silver, calculated on the entire amount smelted,
is nearly $1000 to the ton of 2000 pounds, while the
amount contained is about fifteen per cent. more.
The second class contains the same minerals as the first,
but they are more intimately associated with the gangue,
which in this class forms the bulk of the ore.  The blende
and galena have a moderate percentage of silver (thirty
to fifty ounces), while the tetrahedrite (Fahlerz, or gray
copper ore) varies from one to one and a half per cent.,
and the Stromeyerite is said to rise as high as twventy-six
per cent. Chlorobrominide of silver and native copper
have occurred, and native silver in small flakes is frequent. Two varieties of quartz are found, one in the
ordinary glassy form, often comby; and an opaque white
variety, very brittle, and associated with the richer minerals. Crystallized specimens are very rare, and of the
copper silver glance none have been observed.
I have observed the following welLdefined paragenetic
successions occurring in cavities:
a. ], quartz; 2, brown spar; 3, scalenohedral calcite.
b. 1, brown spar; 2, barytes; 3, scalenohedral calcite.
c. l, quartz; 2, galena; 3, quartz.
d. ], quartz; 2, blende; 3, calcite.
e. 1, quartz; 2, blende; 3, rhombohedral calcite; 4, native silver;
5, scalenohedral calcite.
f. 1, quartz; 2, brown spar; 3, barytes; 4, native silver.
From this it will appear that the general succession in
age is, 1st, quartz; 2d, brown spar; 3d, blende, barytes;
4th, calcite; 5th, native silver; 6th, scalenohedral calcite.
From this list the relative ages of blende and barytes do
not appear.
Galena, blende, and tetrahledrite are usually closely associated with each other in this ore, while the argentiferous sulphuret of copper is entirely independent of them,
but is, at times, mixed with erubescite.  Native silver oc
164 
Mineralogical Sketch of Arizona.
curs in the common filigree form in cavities in the argentiferous copper glance, and is often observable ill minute
specks on the tarnished surface of blende and tetrahedrite.
The reduction works are on the Arivaca ranch, eight
miles distant from the mine, and connected with it by an
excellent road. The process used is the European barrel
amalgamation for argentiferous copper ores, and was introduced by Mr. Kustel, a German metallurgist, about
three years since. The extent of the works is very small,
permitting of the treatment of about one and a half tons
a day. Six dry stamps, a steam arrastra, one reverberatory roasting furnace, four barrels, a retort, and one refining furnace, together with a ten-horse power engine,
constitute the works.
The second class ore, after being coarse stamped, is removed to the arrastra, which is capable of grinding one
ton per day to the necessary fineness. The resulting
slime, after drying, is pounded and sifted. Five hundred
pounds of the ore, after being mixed with firom eight to
ten per cent. of salt, are subjected to the chloridizing
roasting for about four hours. About one half hour before withdrawing the charge, two per cent. of unburnt
limestone is added to reduce the bichloride of copper to
protochloride. In this manner, six roastings are made in
twenty-four hours.  The barrels are charged with 1000
pounds of the roasted ore, 100 pounds metallic copper in
metallic balls, and 144 pounds of water. After revolving
two hours, to effect the partial reduction of salts injurious
to the mercury by the copper, 500 pounds of quicksilver
are added.
After revolving twenty-four hours in all, including the
second watering to collect the disseminated globules of
quicksilver, the whole is withdrawn, and the amalgam
separated and retorted. The resulting silver is simply
melted in a small reverberatory refining furnace, with the
165 
Arizona and Sonora.
addition of a little borax, and cast in bars of different
sizes, having a fineness of 0.990 to 0.998. In the absence
of coin, these are used as a circulating medium, and find
their way to Sonora, and ultimately to England.
The defects of this process, as applied at Arivaca, are
very great, and are attributable in part to the character
of the ores and absence of some facilities. The roasting
is performed too hurriedly, and the roving character of the
Mexicans renders it very difficult to make them good
workmen at the furnace, where so delicate a process, re quiring long practice, is to be well executed. The per centage of sulphur in the ore subjected to this operation
is so very low, that the decomposition of the salt must be
imperfect, causing inordinate loss of this material, which
is very expensive. Owing to the small amount of lime
added during the roasting there can not but be an unnecessarily large loss of quicksilver. The loss of silver is
said to be from twenty to thirty per cent., which destroys
the main advantage of the European barrel process over
the cheaper Mexican amalgamation; but, by more carefully meeting the requirements of the method, this loss
could probably be reduced to at least ten per cent. These
works were erected for temporary use, and, consequently,
the amount of manual labor is more than double that
which is necessary.
The workmen at the furnace receive one dollar per
day of twelve hours; Mexican laborers twelve to fifteen
dollars per month, and to each man a ration of sixteen
pounds of flour per week. American laborers are paid
from thirty to seventy dollars per month and boarded.
The cost of salt which is brought from near the coast, is
four cents per pound; of copper, twenty-five cents per
pound; and wood, from four to six dollars per cord, delivered at the furnace. The price of quicksilver is one
dollar per pound.
166 
Xineralogical Sketch of Arizona.
The first-class ore was formerly smelted at the mine in
Castilian furnaces, with the addition of an ore of sulphide
and carbonate of lead, litharge, and iron ore. The loss
of silver was from fifteen to twenty per cent., and the
cost of extracting that metal about sixty dollars per ton
of ore. The yield, as before stated, was nearly $1000 to
the ton.
From the results obtained in 1859 on 160 tons of amalgamated ore, it appears that about $24,000 worth of silver was produced. The loss of quicksilver equaled one
pound (=one dollar) for every forty dollars of silver extracted. The consumption of copper was 1480 pounds;
of salt, 32,000 pounds; and of wood, 300 cords. The production of silver at the Heintzelman Mine is estimated at
over $100,000 (not including large amounts of ore stolen
and worked in Sonora); but, had it been well and regularly worked, and provided with reduction works of sufficient capacity, it might have produced over $1,000,000
in the same time.
This is the first experiment made in the United States
in applying the barrel process to the treatment of argentiferous copper ores, and it is not surprising that, in submitting to it ores of the peculiar character which these
possess, and especially when we consider the absence of
necessary facilities, we should find in it important defectst
many of which are remediable.
No experiments have been made in working this ore
by the patio or Spanish-American amalgamation process,
so that it is not known to what extent the rejection of
the present method would prove advantageous; but the
results obtained at Arivaca show conclusively that, by
remedying the defects within the limits of possibility, and
by proper substitution of mechanical for manual labor,
the European method can be used with profit in Arizona
for ores of this class, and containing about $150 to the
*. **. *. *
167 
Arizona and Sonora.
ton. The same may be said of the ores of many other
mines which are free firom lead, and in which tetrahedrite
or copper glance is the principal silver bearer.
Near Arivaca there are said to be twenty-five openings
on veins worked formerly for gold and silver. The valley of this ranch is a large plain. The soil rests on clay
slate, which is also, in part, covered by a slight deposit
of the usual quaternary. The hills bounding the valley
on the north and south are of quartziferous porphyry,
This is a fine-grained rock, with pink crystals of orthoclase and quartz crystallized in double pyramids.  The
northern line of contact between the clay slate and porphyry is marked by a bold vein of quartz running east
and west. In this are several openings, made previous to
the Apache war. The ore which I observed was galena,
and its altered products disseminated in quartz. It is
said to contain gold. Several quartz veins traversing the
porphyry have been worked for gold, as have also the
beds of the arroyos in the neighborhood. Arivaca has
too little wood for extensive operations. When the
Heintzelman Mine is again worked, the reduction should
be effected at Tubac, where the erection of large works
would be an incentive to the opening of many of the
mines in that neighborhood.
Santa -Rita.-The mines of the Santa Rita are situated
in and around a beautiful valley, about ten miles east of
Tubac, and among the foot-hills of the Santa Rita Mountains. The valley and the hills to the north are of a metamorphic quartziferous porphyry, while the hills to the
east consist of a feldspathic rock. It is in these two formations that the veins occur. The hills to the south
are formed in part by the porphyry conglomerates already mentioned, and in part by a remarkable feldspathic
porphyry. This last rock has a compact light gray
it *.....
168 
i2ineralogical Sketch of Arizona.
ground, bearing numerous crystals of a white triclinic
feldspar and small prisms of hornblende, but entirely free
from quartz. It is apparently older than the conglomerates. In it no veins have been discovered.
The veins in the feldspathic rock are very numerous,
and have, with few exceptions, a nearly east and west
course. Their dip is nearly vertical, and they vary from
ten to twenty-five inches in thickness. The gangue is
almost entirely quartz, and the ore generally argentiferous gray copper and galena. When this last mineral is
unaccompanied by the tetrahedrite, its yield is rarely over
0.1 per cent. of silver, but when occurring in proximity
to that mineral it contains often from 0.5 to 0.75 per
cent.
The gray copper ores vary from light steel-gray to
tarnished black, and contain from one to over two per
cent. of silver.  This mineral,,-vhen associated with galena in decomposing, is replaced by a porous vitreous substance of yellowish-green color, and consisting principally
of antimoniate of lead, containing from one to two per
cent. of silver. The "crystal vein" is of a massive ore of
galena, with about twenty per cent. of zinc blende and
copper pyrites. The gangue is quartz, but no tetrahedrite was observed. This galena is very poor in silver,
containing from 0.1 to 0.2 per cent. only. Thus to the
presence of tetrahedrite is apparently due the silver of
these ores.  In this vicinity are several veins of gossan, or
oxide of iron, the cappings of deposits of ore, and themselves containing a moderate percentage, about 0.1 per
cent., of silver.
The wall rock of these veins is a crystalline granular
rock, and has a slightly bluish tint on its fresh fracture,
while its weathered surface is discolored by oxyd of iron
proceeding from the alteration of the little hornblende
contained in the rock. It also has a little mica and dis                          H
169 
Arizona and Sonora.
seminated particles of magnetic iron. It thus approaches
in composition to a dioritic rock.
The veins which occur in the metamorphic porphyry
have, so far as opened upon, shown a different character
from the above. The porphyry itself has a compact gray
ground, impregnated with carbonate of lime, and bearing
numerous crystals of opaque, white, triclinic feldspar,
grains of quartz and dark gray mica in six-sided plates.
It contains also specks of magnetic iron.
Veins in this rock are of quartz, often comby, containing a black tetrahedrite, with from four to eight per cent.
of silver, and are in places impregnated with galena in
small cubes, which contain 0.5 per cent. of silver. The
gangue is discolored by the blue and green carbonates of
copper and black manganese, with films-of the sulphuret
of silver and of native silver.  Experiments made on various quantities of these ores in the patio, with the use of
salt and mercury, without roasting or magistral, have
given an average yield of fifty per cent. of silver, and
comparison with correct assays shows that from eighty
to eighty-five per cent. of the silver contained can be extracted by the simple action of salt and mercury. This
fact would seem to show that the silver of this tetrahedrite is contained as mechanically mixed sulphuret. Some
of the veins in this porphyry have been thrown out of
position by a large dike of granite.
These mines have been but little worked, although
three attempts have been made   twice by the Mexicans
and recently by the Santa Rita Company, but in each
case the Apaches have forced an abandonment.  The
ores reduced by the last company were divided by hand
separation into two classes. The first, containing tetrahedrite in quartz and brown spar, had an average yield
of 176 ounces of silver to the ton. The second class, a
quartzy lead ore with little tetrahedrite, averaged eightyone ounces to the ton.
170 
Xiineralogical SketchI of Arizona.
Cahuabi Jlines.-Westward of the Baboquiveri range,
on the outskirts of the desert, in a country clothed with
only bushy mesquit and cacti, and almost destitute of
water, there exists a region which, from the character of
its veins, appears to contain greater mineral wealth than
any other part of Arizona yet explored. It is situated in
the centre of a large plain, forming part of the Papagoria,
and about eighty miles by trail northwest of Tubac.
The veins which I observed occur in a quartziferous
porphyry and ill an amygdaloid rock. This latter has a
brown compact base, containing numerous acicular crystals of triclinic feldspar, and calcareous spar in impregnations and small threads.  Cavities, some filled with
quartz and others with Delessite, are frequent.  In this
formation is the Cahuabi vein.  It is from twelve to fifteen inches thick, and consists of quartz and heavy spar,
containing argentiferous copper glance, galena and black
tetrahedrite. The ore of this vein is said to average from
$150 to $200 per ton.
The 5Ictjo vein, about three miles from the Cahuabi, occurs in the same rock, and is about two feet in thickness.
The gangue is barytes and quartz. The ore consists of
copper glance, galena, and tetrahedrite, with some blende.
With the copper glance is associated copper pyrites.
This vein contains also considerable metallic gold. The
ore is said to vary from $150 to $170 per ton.
Four miles west of the Tajo is a vein which traverses
a quartziferous porphyry of the same character as that
which bears the gold quartz veins of Arivaca. The
gangue is quartz, and contains black tetrahedrite and
some vitreous copper.
A great number of veins of quartz and barytes occur
in these two formations, the latter seeming to prefer the
amygdaloid rock. One vein of barytes, containing a
"bonanza" of sulphuret of silver, was found and worked
171 
Arizona (atg( Soezora.
by the Mexicans, and several specimens of heavy spar associated with silver glance fi'om various localities were
shown me.
The San Pedro Mines.-These are about thirty-five
miles east of Fort Buchanan, and were opened by a St.
Louis Company. The ores that I have seen from this locality are tetrahedrite and massive copper glance, containing copper pyrites, with quartz and barytes for
gangue firom the San Pedro vein, and galena, with iron
pyrites, from the St. Paul Mine. These veins were being opened and promising well when the company abandoned them on the account of the assassination of the
employes by the peons.  The San Pedro River near these
mines is said to be capable of furnishing sufficient water
power for extensive reduction works.
From a study of the fissure silver veins of Central Arizona it would appear, firstly, that they have in common
quartz, galena, and tetrahedrite; secondly, that there is a
close connection between barytes and copper glance, more
or less argentiferous, in their occurrence in a vein; and,
thirdly, that the proportion of silver in the galena is largely increased when this mineral is associated with tetrahedrite. A large number of assays made on the gray copper ores of different mines showed a range of from one to
eight and a half per cent. of silver.  In many, if not all
the richer varieties examined, a large percentage was undoubtedly contained as mechanically mixed sulphuret of
silver.
In the Santa Cruz Mountains, south of Fort Buchanan,
is a series of lead mines, several of which were excavated
by Mexicans several years since.  They appear to follow
the line of contact between an argillaceous limestone, in
which corals have been found, and a probably metamorphic porphyry.  In places the deposits arc of considerable
1 72 
Mineratlogical Sketch of Arizonia.
extent, often many yards in thickness, but, apparently,
very irregularly developed. Near the surface the galena
is often entirely changed into carbonate of lead associated
with porous quartz.
At the Patagonia 2f[ine* the ore consists of galena sufficiently altered, at the present depth of working, to render its reduction extremely simple. The average yield
of silver from this ore has been, thus far, about $80 per
ton.
There is another class of contact veins bearing both
lead and copper ores. To this class belongs the deposit
near San Xavier, on the Santa Cruz. The ore is galena,
with copper pyrites and tile ore, associated with oxyd of
iron and quartz, the whole interstratified with metamorphic limestone. The galena examined contained 0.20 per
cent., the copper pyrites 0.25 per cent., and the tile ore
0.10 per cent. silver.
Near Caborca, in Northwestern Sonora, are deposits of
a somewhat similar character. The strata of metamorphic limestone are almost vertical, and near their contact
with granite become highly impregnated with lime garnets. Along the line of contact between the two formations, the presence of copper ores is indicated by frequent
occurrence of green and blue carbonates and impure red
oxyd. These indications often lead to the discovery of
limited deposits containing a few hundred tons of copper.
One of these, worked in 1861, yielded firom 250 to 300
tons of twenty-five per cent. ore.  There was no vein;
the ore, which was accompanied by calcareous spar, being
gradually replaced at the bottom of the deposit by the
limestone of the formation.  The ore is copper glance, tile
ore, or impure red oxyd, and some copper pyrites. Accompanying these deposits, and also where no copper ore
is visible, the line of contact is occupied by masses of
* Now the MAlowrv Silver Mines.
I 1.3 
Arizoi-eaact Soznora.
magnetic iron. Where the same limestone comes in contact with diorite, the former contains large crystals of
magnetic iron and spinel.
Planchas cle la Plcta. - In Sonora, just south of the
line, and near the meridian of Tubac, are thie Planchas de
la Plata Mines, still celebrated throughout the republic.
According to the best Miexican and Jesuit authorities,
large masses of native silver were discovered there in
1769.  Pieces of great size were obtained (one is said to
have weighed 3600 pounds), and the workings were being
prosecuted with vigor and success, when the Spanish government declared the deposit to be a crica(lero, and, as
such, to belong to the crown. The place was therefore
abandoned, and every attempt made at regular working
since the Revolution has been frustrated by the Apaches.
The most singular feature connected with the discovery
is that no vein, from which these masses could have come,
was found.  The deposit seems to have been a regular
placer. The silver occurred in pieces of every size down
to small grains.  Several rich veins were opened in the
neighboring mountains, but were also abandoned from
absence of protection.  The only specimens that I have
seen from this locality were apparently a partially decomposed quartziferous porphyry, from the wall rock of the
Mina Colorada, and were impregnated with grains of silver glance.
Generact Uoozclusons.-Before the working of mines in
Arizona can become regular and profitable, many changes
will be necessary. The Apaches must either be exterminated or reduced to complete submission, and this can
only be accomplished by a long series of campaigns. A
port is also necessary, without which all supplies and maclineryv lhave to be transported over deserts firom the Gulf
174 
31ineralogical Sketch of Arizona.
of Mexico or the Colorado River. Guaymas, 350 miles,
and Port Lobos, 150 miles from Tubac, are the natural
entrances to the country, and, so long as these remain in
the hands of a treacherous and capricious government, no
enterprise can flourish either in Arizona or Sonora. Farther, the present unnatural boundary-line will always be
a source of trouble, affording a shelter to the robbers and
assassins of both countries.
The substitution of white for peoni labor would probably be a failure, owing to the debilitating influence which
the climate exerts on Northerners.  The Mexican labor
is good when properly superintended; but, to render it
advantageous, the recognition of the traditionary custom
of peonage is necessary. A thorough code of mining
laws is also much to be desired; for, however well the
plan of permitting miners to make their own regulations
may be thought to work in gold districts, it will never
place silver mining on a solid basis, but can not, on the
contrary, act otherwise than prejudicially to the interests
of both miners and the state.
There is but little doubt that, after a few years of proper development, Arizona might become an important
source of silver, although its veins do not possess the
great thickness of many of the mines of Mexico, although
the average richness of the ore is greater and more concentrated.  Still, it can not be expected to produce the
brilliant results obtained in Central Mexico.
175 
Ar}izo2ta and SonorC.
CHAPTER X.
CORRESPONDENCE.*
S. Mowry to J. R. Bartlett, Esq.-From J. R. Bartlett, Esq.-From
John C. Hays, Esq.-From Hon. Joseph Lane.-From John Nu  gent, Esq.-From Hon. Miguel A. Otero.-From S. W. Inge, Esq.
-From Major C. E. Bennett.-From Sam. F. Butterworth, Esq.
S. JIowry to J. R. Bartlett, Easy.
Washington, September 20, 1857.
MY DEAR SIR,-The general impression which has in
some way become diffused that the new Territory ofArizona is a worthless and barren country is so wide from
the truth, and is calculated to retard in so great a degree
the early development of this valuable region, that any
reliable information respecting its mineral and agricultural resources will be read by the public with great interest.
The recent large emigration into the new Territory,
the fabulous stories which each California mail brings us
of discoveries in silver and copper, the establishment of
the Overland M3ail route to California throughout its entire length, the petition of its inhabitants for government
protection, and the probability of its erection into a sep
* The following letters from eminent persons, some of them of national reputation, are only a portion of those in my possession, extending over a period of seven years. They are given as additional and
unanswerable testimony to the truth of the statements contained in the
preceding pages.  The concluding letter, from SAM. F. BUTTERWORTH,
Esq., President of the Quicksilver Mining Company, and late Superintendent of the United States Assay Office at New York, was received
after this edition was prepared for the press. The high character of
the writer, and his intimate acquaintance with the subject, gives especial weight to his opinion.-S. M.
176 
Correspondence.
arate Territory by the next Congress, all operate to make
Arizona a prominent subject of public inquiry. Few persons know better than yourself its resources, both agricultural and mineral. Perhaps no one can furnish such
accurate and decided information, especially of that vast
agricultural region north of the Gila, which once sustained a mighty population.
Your official connection with the Gadsden Purchase as
United States Commissioner invests any statement from
you in this connection with emphatic authority. I am
sure you will at once interest the public, and greatly
serve the people of Arizona, by allowing your views, already known to your firiends, to be published.
Very respectfully, your friend and servant,
SYLVESTEPR -oOWRY.
Hon. John 1l. Bartlett, late United( States Commissioner.
-Fro?z J. ]..Bartlett, Esq.
Provideince, October 31, 1857.
I)DEAR SiR,-I have received your letter of the 20th
ultimo, asking of me certain information relative to the
mineral wealth and agricultural resources of the new
Territory of Arizona, which is now attracting public attention, with a desire that I will furnish such facts as
came under my notice relative to this region while acting
as United States Commnissioner in the survey of the MIexican boundary.
"The general impression," which, you observe, "has
become diffused, that this Territory is a worthless and
barren country," is not correct.  A large portion of California may be called barren-indeed, the gold-bearing region is in a great measure so -but no one would call it
a "worthless" counttry.  Its hills, its elevated lands, and
many of its plains, being destitute of water-courses and
H 2
177 
A1r  -izon  a ced Sofoor(C.
springs, are of little value for agricultural purposes, while
for grazing they are valuable. There are, besides, large
districts in California, strictly deserts, which are barren
and worthless.  Again, the valleys along the rivers and
water-courses, as well as those lying between ranges of
mountain, and deriving sustenance therefirom, are exceed ingly rich, and surpass in fertility any agricultural dis tricts of the Atlantic States.  The same rule will apply to
the region in question, which is included in the so-called
Territory of Arizona.
In replying to your queries, I will extend my observa tions to the territory embraced in the "Gadsdenl Pur chase," so culled, as well as to the district which bounds
that territory on the north, particularly the valley of the
Gila, and of its principal confluent, the River Salinas, as
you make mention of this.
The vast region in question, like California, presents
three distinct features in its surface, without speaking of
the mountainous district; first, dry plains; second, elevated plateaus or table-lands; and, third, agricultural v'alleys or bottom lands.
Of the districts embraced in the first division, one
lies south of the Gila, between the head waters of the
Gulf of California and the valley of the Santa Cruz; the
other west of the Rio Grande, at intervals between that
and the San Pedro valley. The table-lands lie in the latter district, as well as between the San Pedro and Santa
Cruz Rivers.  The valleys where there are arable lands
are the Rio Grande, the Alimbres, and inl the Burro
Miountains, E1 Saux, San Pedro, Calabazas, Santa Cruz,
and the Gila.  The Rio Grande, San Pedro, and Santa
Cruz are the larger; the others, though small, could be
rendered highly productive, and would be brought into
use in settling the Territory.  In speaking of arable lands,
it is necessary to remark that artificial irrigation is neces
178 
179
sary for all agriculture throughout New Mexico, much
of Texas, and the whole of Northern Mexico. The yield
in this case is vastly greater than is produced in countries
where the sole dependence is upon the rains.
The dry plains are generally level, with a hard surface,
and are admirably adapted for the purposes of a wagon
road or railway. Experience has shown, too, that, with
artesian wells, water may be obtained. By mere digging
I found it in many places where certain indications well
known to experienced eyes may always detect its existence. Whether these arid spots can ever be rendered
available for agricultural purposes I will not pretend to
say. My opinion is that they can not.
The table-lands are covered with a short and lutxuriant grass, upon which immense herds of cattle have been
and may still be raised. Formerly herds of forty thousandcl existed in Chihuahua, which then included the eastern portion of Arizona. On the haciendas where there
were no ponds or streams the cattle obtained their water
from the " pozos," or simple wells, and the " niorias," or
draw-wells, where the water was drawn up by a wheel
worked by mules. These peculiar wells are found
throughout Chihuahua, Durango, and other states, and
furnish a sufficient supply of water for haciendas with
large droves of cattle. I met with many of these wells
far from any streams.
In the northern parts of Chihuahua, or Arizona, the
cattle herds have long since disappeared, owing to the
incursions of the Apaches and Camanches; and I may
make the same remark with regard to that portion of the
Territory of Arizona which formerly belonged to Sonora.
The great herds have disappeared, and the haciendas are
every where in ruin.
In the grazing district I ought also to include many
of the mountain valleys and ravines, as well as the lesser
C07-i-esl-)o)t,cle)tce. 
Arizona and Sonorca.
hills, where gramma grass (crontlosittu) is found in abundance, and which is greedily eaten by horses, mules, sheep,
and horned cattle. This grass is very nutritious, and
even when dry and parched by the intense heat of summer is eagerly sought after by animals.
The great plateau west of the RPio Grande, where
grass exists, and which may embrace two thirds or more
of the elevated region, consists of an undulating prairie,
with here and there a conical-shaped hill. No considerable or continuous range of mountains is met with until a
spur of the Sierra Burro is reached, which is about twelve
miles west of Ojo de Vaca.  Cooke's Spring, Ojo de
Vaca, and Pachetehlt are depressions in the plain where
springs bearing these names are found, and which are
well known to those who have traversed this region. In
the Burro Mountains is a fine spring called by us "Ojo
de Inez," with several pools of water in the valley adjacent. Besides these, our surveying parties discovered
other springs and pools of water near the hills, as well as
in depressions on the plain, which, if opened, would furnish a good supply.  Then we have also the large body
of water west of the E1 Paso, known as Lake Guzman,
and the River Mlimbres.
The Mimbres rises in the Rocky Mountains, and, after
coursing through the plateau, discharges itself, when full,
into Lake Guzman.  It seldom reaches that lake, however, its waters being absorbed or lost in the plain. Its
sources have never been traced, but, as far as known, it
must flow about one hundred and thirty miles when full.
I found it dry thirty miles south of an encampment at the
Copper Mines (Fort Webster) in July.  The Mimbres is
but a small stream, and hardly deserves the name of a
river; hence its cultivable valley is narrow, nowhere ex-.
ceeding a mile after entering the open plain.
I followed the stream two miles below where we first
180 
v
Corresponde~ce.
struck it and where we encamped.  Here there was a
thick growth of large cottonwoods; and, although the
bottom was much contracted in width, it was thickly
wooded and forest-like.  Taking a small armed party with
me then for protection, I followed the river up for about
five miles where it entered the hills, and a little beyond
the Rocky Mountains. I noticed all along the valley great
quantities of wild roses, hops, and the Missouri currant,
ill some places growving so rank and entangled that we
w-ere unable to work our way through.  The remains of
old Indian encampments and wigwams, with fragments
of pottery scattered around, showed that it was a place
of resort for the Indians.
In the mountains, where the MIimbres receives constant
accessions of water from lesser rivulets and springs, there
are wvider valleys.  It runs about eight miles east of the
Copper Mines; and here, on account of the excellent grazing, the abundance of wood and water, we grazed our animals.  There is no cultivated ground at the Copper
Miines beyond a couple of acres; and, although there are
excellent garrison buildings here, the place was abandonedl soon after the boundary commission left it, 1851, and
Fort Webster established on the Mimbres, which affordedl superior advantages.  In all this region there is an
abundance of pine and other timber trees.  Game, too,
abounds, consisting of grizzly, brown, and black bears,
deer, rabbits, turkeys, partridges, quails, etc., while in the
waters of the Mimbres we took excellent fish.
Santa Rita del Cobre, or the Copper Mines, was for
about forty years an active mining town. The workings
commenced in 1804, and, proving very profitable, a population of six hundred souls gathered around them. The
hills near by furnish grazing for the animals, but for agricultural productions the population depended upon the
richly cultivated districts in the valleys of the San MIigu,el
181 
a
Arizona and Sonora.
and Casas Grandes, to the southward. A considerable
trade was also carried on with the firontier towns in Sonora.  The return trains took back copper or ore, much
of which, owing to its superior quality, was sent to the
city of Mexico, where it was used for coinage. I was told
in Chihuahua that the gold found in this ore paid the
cost of transportation.
I have little doubt that the region about the Copper
Mines abounds in mineral wealth.  Gold was found four
miles from our camp, and some of our men, after leaving
the commission, sunk a shaft there. They found gold, but,
being ignorant of the means of washing it, and not knowving the indications of its existence elsewhere, their project
was abandoned.  Several fine specimens of lead and silver
ore, procured near by, were also shown me; but the Apache chiefs told me they knew where both gold and silver
were to be found in abundance some twenty miles distant
in the mountains.  They had specimens of gold, and offered to conduct me to the spot where they obtained it; but
I did not think it safe to trust myself with these treacherous people, although I was on the most friendly terms
with them, and excused myself from accompanying them
by saying that my object was not to get gold, as they believed, but to survey the boundary. The Mexicans have
many traditions of the existence of silver ore in these
mountains; and I have no doubt a careful exploration by
a skillful geologist would be the means of making known
a very rich mining region. General Conde6, when with
me at the Copper  uines, assured me that he had knowledge of valuable silver ore in the adjacent mountains.
On leaving this encampment in August, 1851, we journeyed south, stopping at the springs of Pachetehfi and
Ojo de Vaca. The whole plateau was then covered with
verdure, owing to copious rains. At the latter spring I
presume there is always water, as I found it there at my
182 
Correspondence.
several visits in MIay, June, and August. There are here
a few acres where grass is always found. It is a watering-place for all passing trains, and has long been resorted
to by the Indians.
From this point we pursued a course nearly west, entering the broad district which had never been penetrated
before by any white muan in modern times (as far as I
know), and where we had doubts whether water could be
found. At twelve miles distance we entered a canion or
defile of the Burro MIountains, which we followed up for
six miles, to Ojo de Inez. This defile wvas thickly wooded
with scrub oaks, and led to a grassy meadow, three hundred yards wide, in which were many fine springs and pools
of water. We traced a small spring running through this
valley for several miles, and I have reason to think that
it extends to the Gila.  IHere would be a good point for
a station on a wvagon road, as I suggested in my "'Personal Narrative," vol. i., p. 363.  There is plenty of meadow-land, water, and wood; and, though in a secluded spot,
is accessible for loaded wagons.
The next valley with water is that known as " E1 Cienega del Saux," i. e., Willow Marsh, though now called
the Valley de Saux. This lies east of the Chiracahui range
of mountains, and a corresponding range about twenty
miles distant.  This space is without trees.  The marsh
is a basin where the wvaters are collected from the adjacent
slopes.  We encamped on its margin, where there were
many pools of water, but of the extent of ground thus
covered I was unable, from the flatness of the ground, to
form any opinion. There can be no doubt that much of
this valley can be brought under cultivation, and that it
must become the site of one of the principal stations on
the great wagon road now constructing.  The old Spanish
maps exhibit a stream called the" Suanco," emptying into
the Gila, which appears to run through this valley. Many
I 8 ol 
Arizonca arc)d So)zora.
villages and ranches are marked upon the map along this
river, whence it may be inferred that there is an agricultural valley here. In crossing the Saux valley I noticed
an arroyo or dry bed of a stream, which, during and after
the rainy season, may be filled with water.
In the Chiracahui Mountains we found water in abundance.  So copious indeed was the supply (although but
the basin of a spring), that after all our animals, about
one hundred and fifty in number, had drank of it, we
could perceive no diminution.  The mountain pass was
well wooded, with plenty of grass.  The exact position
of our encampment here was latitude 32~ 08' 43", longitude 109~ 24' 33".
Between these mountains and the San Pedro is an undulating plain, intersected by a mountain range near the
river, with brackish water in some parts. Portions of
this bear a short grass, but there is no wood except in
the mountain defile through which we passed, and but a
scanty supply there.
The San Pedro valley is next reached, and lying some
ten or twelve feet below the bottom land, unmarked by
trees, the river is not observed until at its very margin.
It was here about thirty feet wide and two and a half
deep.  Its depth varies with the rainy and dry seasons.
Its valley is from a quarter of a mile to a mile in width,
and in some places I was told it was still wider. This
valley formerly sustained a considerable population, scattered about in haciendas and ranches, and engaged in
rearing cattle. I noticed the ruins of haciendas which
for years had been abandoned, and also saw herds of wild
cattle roaming through the mesquit chapparal of the valley. A few days after we met with a large party of
Mexicans, under Don Ilarian Garcia, engaged in hunting
wild cattle, in order to obtain a supply of beef for the
army, for which beef he had the contract.  From him I
184 
Correspondence.
learned that the valley was much broader farther south,
and that thousands of cattle grazed there.
I am not aware that much of this valley has been under cultivation by artificial irrigation, as we did not meet
with the usual traces of irrigating canals, which, when
once dug, never disappear entirely. Yet such irrigation
may have been employed in parts of the valley that I did
not examine.
A pretty little stream, which I learned from the Mexican hunters referred to, called the Babacanora, entered
the San Pedro about twenty-five miles above where we
first encamped. WVe also encamped at this stream, near
a ruined hacienda, where there were remains of an orchard of fruit-trees. The valley of the Babacanora is
wide, and was covered with luxuriant grass; indeed, it
was a much more attractive and apparently richer spot
than the valley of the San Pedro. Its broad fiats or bottoms resembled those of the Mohawk River, and it was
in these, near the confluent with the latter stream, that
the Mexicans were hunting the wild cattle.
Leaving the valley of the San Pedro we came upon a
rolling country or prairie, here and there covered with a
short grass, upon which we encountered small herds of
mustangs.  This grass was eagerly eaten by our animals.
On these plains we found many depressions with pools
of water. One of these depressions led to a small running stream, coursiing through a level bottom, which we
traced for about fifteen miles. This was studded for a
portion of the distance with large oaks and sycamores,
and resembled a highly cultivated English park; yet soli tude reigned around, and there was no evidence that it
had ever been inhabited by white men. Farther on, near
where the stream forced its way through the mountains
known as the Sierra Santa PRita, we found the ruins of a
hacienda, with a tract of rich bottom land near. On this
185 
Arizona and Sonora.
bottom there were cottonwood trees of immense size.
The stream, which is here about twenty feet wide, empties into the Santa Cruz near the hacienda of Calabaza.
The whole district lying between the valley of the San
Pedro and the Santa Cruz may strictly be called a grazing country. It is well watered by the streams mentioned and by the many small pools. As we approached the
lofty Sierra de Santa Rita we crossed several arroyos
lined with trees, showing that after the rainy season there
is a great abundance of water here.
We now approach the Santa Cruz River and its valley,
unquestionably the finest agricultural district in the whole
of the Gadsden Purchase, after leaving the bottom lands
of the Rio Grande. It is also the best wooded of any
portion of the Territory, and in other respects presents
many advantages for settlers; indeed, this valley, with
its adjacent districts, where there are several rich and
highly cultivated haciendas and miissions, -must become
the granary for the future State of Arizona.
The Santa Cruz River rises in a broad valley, or rather
plain, north of the town of the same name.  We struck
it at the base of a mountain range, where an open country, studded with oaks, lay before us.  Passing these was
an open plain covered with luxuriant grass, without a
tree or shrub; crossing which, after being contracted
between low ranges of hills, we reached Santa Cruz.
This is an old town and presidio, and falls about ten
miles south of our line.  Flowing south nine miles to San
Lorenzo, a deserted rancho, it soon after takes a northerly course, winding its wvay through a beautiful valley,
until it is lost in the desert plain or sailds, some ten or
fifteen miles north of Tucson. Its entire length in a direct line, without reckoning its sinuosities, is about a
hundred miles.  Its width varies from 20 to 100 feet, and
during very dry seasons portions of it disappear.
186 
Correspondence.
This valley was traversed by the earliest Spanish explorers in 1535, seduced by the flattering accounts of Cabega de Vaca. Marco de Niza and Coronado led their
adventurers through it in search of the famed cities of
Cibola, north of the Gila; and before the year 1600, its
richness having been made known, it was soon after occupied as missionary ground. Remains of several of
these missions still exist. The mission church of San
Xavier del Bac, erected during the last century, is the
finest edifice of the kind in Sonora. Tumacacori, a few
miles south of Tubac, was the most extensive mission in
this part of the country. The extensive buildings, irrigating canals, and broad cultivated domain here at once
attest its advantages.
The towns and settlements in the Santa Cruz valley
are Santa Cruz and San Lorenzo (south of our line), Calabazas, Tumacacori, Tubac, Sopori, the mission of San
Xavier, and Tucson.  Santa Cruz, Tubac, and Tucson
w-ere presidios.  With the exception of Santa Cruz and
Tucson, this entire valley was abandoned to the savage
Apaches at the time of my first visit in 1851, and the
population of these was greatly diminished; indeed, but
for the military the Indians would have had entire possession of it.  At Calabazas a small stream enters, upon
which are fine bottom lands.  At Sopori is another extensive hacienda, with a broad domain and finle bottom
lands.  Between Tubac and San Xavier is the finest timbered district in the country; it extends firoln the river
to the base of the mountains, and is apparently several
miles in width.  The timber is wholly mesquit, of a larger
size than I noticed any where in the Territory, except
in the valley of the Colorado. This timber must be of
incalculable value both for railroad and mining purposes.
For building purposes it is too hard and crooked.  Besides, the cottonwood is found on the margin of all
187
I 
Arizona and Sonora.
streams; it is of rapid growth, and well adapted for
building.
Tucson, the most northern presidio in Mexico, once
contained three thousand inhabitants. In 1851 it had
dwindled down to less than five hundred, and I understand now contains between one and two thousand. The
valley here is wide and rich.  The large and picturesque
haciendas, and the wide-spread system of irrigation which
every where marks the plain, sufficiently attest its susceptibility for cultivation. Between Tucson and the Gila is
an arid desert ninety miles across, about midway on
which is a well-known picacho, at the base of which water is often found in pools, and where, by sinking wells,
it might be had at all times.
With regard to the lands bordering on the River Gila,
but a portion are susceptible of cultivation by the usual
means adopted in that region, irrigation. Its valley is
wooded generally with cottonwood trees, while bordering on this are "openings" of mesquit.  The best portion
of the Gila valley is occupied by the two tribes of Indians
known as the Pimos and the Coco Maricopas. This is
a tract lying 180 miles from its mouth, between the point
where the road from Tucson strikes the Gila and the
mouth of the Salinas. The arable lands occupied and
cultivated by the Indians referred to extend from sixteen
to twenty miles along the river, and are from three to
four miles in width.  Irrigating canals or "acequias"
conduct the water of the Gila over all this cultivated district.  The Indians raise wheat, corn, millet, beans, pumpkins, and melons in great abundance.  Their wheat and
corn they grind into flour, from which they make a palatable bread. They also raise a superior quality of cot-'
ton, firom which they spin and weave their own garments; an art not acquired from the Spaniards, but
which was found among them more than three hundred
188 
189
years ago, when the Spaniards first penetrated this country.
But the arable lands of the Gila at this point are not
limited to the district occupied by the Pimos and Coco
Maricopas; they extend far up that stream until it enters the mountains.  I traced it up beyond the celebrated "Casas Grandes," and found the bottom land intersected in all directions by old irrigating canals of
greater or less size; ruins of ancient edifices,vast mounds
and tumuli, with long lines of earth-works; while the
whole district was strewn with the fragments of pottery,
and "metates," or stone corn-grinders, all of which went
to show that a large and industrious population, familiar
with agriculture and the arts of the semi - civilized Indians, formerly dwelt here.
Yout refer particularly to a district north of and immediately contiguous to the Gila which was examined by
me. This tract is, par excellenzce, the finest agricultural
district in our lately-acquired territories lying in the same
latitude, between Eastern Texas and the Pacific, for the
great extent and richness of the soil, the abundance and
excellence of the water, the cottonwood timber for building purposes, the fine quarries of stone in the adjacent
hills, andl for the facility with which it may be approachedl froom every quarter.
The district in question lies at the junction, and in a
measure forms the delta of the Salinas and Gila Rivers.
It lies but a little above the bed of the river, and might
be, in consequence, easily irrigated. The arable bottom
land is from two to four miles in width, and is overgrown
with mesquit, while on the river's margin grow large
cottonwoods. The river we found to be from eighty to
120 feet wide, firom two to four feet deep, and both rapid
and clear.  In these respects it differs from the Gila, which
is sluggish and muddy for the 200 miles I followed its 
Arizona and Sonora.
banks. About forty miles from the mouth of the river
we came to extensive remains of an ancient race. tiere
the table-land approached to within a mile of the river,
and along its margin was an ancient canal from twenty
to twenty-five feet wide and about four deep, which
seemed to extend a long distance toward the mountains.
From this were lateral canals or ditches, intersecting the
bottom in all directions for irrigating it. The table-land
was covered with mounds and the ruins of ancient edifices, while fragments of pottery, stone axes, and corngrinders were scattered over it for miles, showing that
it once sustained a large population. I learned from Mr.
Leroux, the famous guide who accompanied me on this
occasion, that much more extensive ruins were to be
seen farther up the river, and particularly in the valley
of the Rio Verde, which were built of stone. I speak of
these to show the extent of the agricultural population
that was formerly supported here, as well as to furnish
an argument to sustain me in the opinion that this is one
of the most desirable positions for a permanent agricultural settlement, with a military post, of any between the
Rio Grande and the Colorado.
The Gila is not a navigable stream, but after its rise
fiat-bottomed boats loaded with merchandise might easily pass up as far as the Salinas, and perhaps to the Pimo
v'illages.
The next point of interest is the valley of the Colorado
of the Wrest.
The Colorado is the largest stream between the Mississippi and the Pacific. It has many large tributaries,
most of them, like itself, bordered with wide alluvial bottoms, and all well wooded; the angle, forming the delta
of the Colorado and Gila Rivers, is entirely covered with
a forest, and is often overflowed. The former stream
where it receives the Gila is about 500 yards wide, and
190 
Correslponclence.
after passing a rocky cafion is much diminished; yet it
varies much, according to the floods, both in depth and
width. When our surveying party crossed the Colorado
in January, 1852, they found the water (then at its lowest
point) to be four feet deep at the shallowest place where
it was forded.  Six months later I found it thirteen feet
higher at Fort Yuma, with an actual velocity of five and
a quarter miles an hour, as ascertained by experiment.
The bottom lands of the Colorado at Fort Yuma, and
at the Algodones, a few miles below, are exceedingly rich,
are well wooded, and bear the marks of a former cultivation, irrigating canals being seen in all directions, even
in the densest part of the forest.  Nowhere have I seen
bottom lands which could more easily be irrigated, o wing
to the little elevation of the banks above the stream.
Having, now spoken of the agricultural districts of Arizona, and specified the arable and the grazing lands, I will
speak of its mineral resources. In doing this I must neco
essarily be brief, for the reason that its mineral wealth, being below the surface, was not apparent to me or my party.
From the Mexicans of intelligence living in Sonora I
learned that the Saukita Mountains, lying east of the Santa
Cruz valley, abounded in silver. Some of these mines
had formerly been worked.  West of this valley, in the
arid region, which has but few inhabitants, are both silver
and copper mines.  The copper mine "Del Ajo," and the
"Santa Teresa and Sopori" silver mines, are among the
most celebrated.
MIany others, scarcely opened, including gold, silver,
and copper, are known to exist, but which have been
abandoned or were never worked for the want of means
and of protection against the Indians. The want of these
has led to the abandonment of valuable mines throughout
the States of Chihuahua and Sonora; indeed, I was told
by old residents in these states that "hundreds" of mines
191
0 
A1-izo)ta and Soniora.
had thus been abandoned, a portion only having been
worked to any extent.
On the old Spanish maps of the district in question
there are many towns laid down in places near mountains
where there are neither grazing or arable lands, and which
could only have been supported by mining.  In reaching
those portions of the states mentioned where the population is sufficiently numerous to protect themselves, we
find silver mines of great richness; but even these are but
imperfectly worked, for the want of means and proper
machinery.  Several of these mines I entered myself, and
saw a great variety of specimens of ore from others. Of
gold, copper, cinnabar, and lead, I also saw many fine
specimens taken from the mountains in the vicinity, all of
which tended to convince me that these mountains do
really abound in these metals. A careful geological survey is necessary in order to make known the mineral resources of this country. Should this be done, I do not
hesitate to express my belief that such will be the results
that a large population will at once occupy it. The territory, as a whole, is not an agricultural one; nevertheless,
there is quite sufficient arable or agricultural land to sustain any mining population which may ever be fixed here.
It should be mentioned, too, that the finest grain region
in Chihuahua is the valley of the Casas Grande, or San
Miguel River, which is just south of our boundary, and
that Sonora, on the opposite of the Sierra Madre, is a fine
grain country.
With the hope that these crude remarks, hastily drawn
up, may aid you in making known the agricultural and
mineral advantages of the Territory which you have been
recently elected to represent in the Congress of the United States, I am, dear sir, your most obedient servant,
JOHN R. BARTLETT.
Lieut. S. Mowry, Delegate to Congress 
from the Territory of Arizona. 
192 
Correspondence.
From Joohn C. trays, Esq.
Washington, D.C., February 16, 1858.
MY DEAR SIR,-In answer to your note asking my
opinion of the resources of Arizona (Gadsden Purchase),
I take pleasure in saying in writing what I have already
said in conversation - that I have traveled through the
Territory from the Rio Grande to Fort Yuma, and that
I consider it one of the finest grazing countries I have
ever seen. The beautiful valleys of the streams which
run into the Gila are fertile, and will sustain a very large
population. I consider Arizona, especially in view of its
great mineral wealth, a most desirable country for emigrants in search of a new home, and confidently look
forward to its becoming, at an early day, a populous and
wealthy state. Very truly your friend,
JoUNS C. HAYS.
To Sylvester Mowry, Delegate from Arizona,
Fromt.Hont. Joseph.Laze.
Washington, March 21, 1858.
DEAR SIR,-In regard to the resources of Arizona,
agricultural and otherwise, I have to say that I traveled
over that country in the months of November and December, 1848, by the Rio Mimbres; the old, deserted
ranches of San Bernardino and San Pedro to the settlements of Santa Cruz, Tucson, to the Pimo villages; found
the climate mild, grazing good, and many rich, beautiful,
fertile valleys, capable of producing corn, wheat, rye, oats,
and vegetables sufficient to subsist a large population.
In short, I may say that I regard Arizona as an important portion of our country- rich in gold, silver, copper.
and other valuable minerals, and decidedly the best grazing country on this continent, capable of subsisting mil
I
193 
Arizona ancd Sonora.
lions of cattle without the aid of man.  Over the route
that I traveled there are no serious obstacles to a good
wagon road; the country is rolling, but not mountainous, over which you could travel without much difficulty
in a buggy at all seasons of the year.  MIany streams of
pure water are found, though in places good water is
scarce.
Very respectfully, your obedient servant,
JOsEPH LANE.
Lieut. Sylvester Mowry, Washington, D. C.
From Joh,n Nttgent, Esq.
Washington, January 29, 1859.
SIR, -I cheerfully give, in compliance with your request, mny views (in brief) regarding the population, soil,
climate, capabilities, and advantages of Arizona.
Of its present population I know nothing. My information on the other points is derived from travel of some
two and a half months through the Territory firom east
to west.
I have no hesitation in saying that it has very remarkable advantages of climate, and more than ordinary capabilities of soil. Some portions of it are an irreclaimable
and utterly valueless desert; but the greater part consists
of fine pasture-land abounding in the rich gramma and
other nutritious grasses, and no inconsiderable portion
has the very finest soil, of teeming productiveness, and of
limitless agricultural availability. It is not a thickly
wooded country, but on most of the streams there is
large timber and of different varieties.  Many of the valleys are of exceeding beauty and fertility, and west of
the San Pedro there is some of the finest cotton-growing
country in the world. The Pimos and Maricopas, even
194 
Correspondence.
with their rude culture, already raise cotton of excellent
quality.
Of its mineral wealth, except in copper, I know but little. That it contains some of the richest and most extensive copper mines on the continent I have myself
proved by personal observation.
On the whole, I doubt if there be any portion of the
domain of the United States east of the Colorado River
that presents greater inducements for settlement to emigrants from the old states than does the Territory of
Arizona. From what I have seen of it, I am not aware
of any material cause why it should not become in time
a thriving and prosperous commonwealth.
I have the honor to be your obedient servant,
JoHN NUGENT.
Hon. Sylvester Mowry.
From Hon. 2giguel A. Otero.
House of Representatives, Jan. 29, 1859.
DEAR Sin,-In compliance with your request on yesterday to furnish you in writing what, in my opinion, was
two years ago the population of that portion south of the
Territory of New Mexico bordering upon the Rio Grande,
and now within the limits of the proposed Territory of
Arizona, and also what I believe may now be the population embraced within that region of country, excluding
the western part of that Territory, I take pleasure in stating to you that the number of people residing in what is
generally known as the Mesilla Valley, on both sides of
the Rio Grande, could not have been less than 7000
people at that time, when I canvassed that portion of
New Mexico for Congress two years ago. I had a good
opportunity of judging of the amount of population in
it at that time. The vote cast there was about 1000;
195 
Arizona and Sonora.
but I am free to say that that is no criterion by which to
estimate or judge of the amount of population living
there, because there were no more than one half of the
voters who were able to vote in consequence of the rainy
weather at that time. Many, too, were challenged on
the ground that they were foreigners, and did not vote.
If the weather had permitted it, and a full vote have
been cast, it could not have been less than 1500 or 1700
votes.
I learn farther that since that time much immigration
has gone into the country, and I have no doubt that
there are now at least 2000 votes in the Mesilla Valley,
and about 8000 inhabitants.
As to the population on the western portion of the
proposed Territory, I had no opportunity to learn. It is
my belief, however, that the population west of the Mesilla Valley can not be less than 2000 inhabitants, making,
therefore, the whole population of the Territory about
10,000 or 11,000 inhabitants. It may be even greater
than this, when we take into consideration not only the
unsettled condition of the Mexican states bordering on
that Territory, the establishment of the Overland Mail
through it, both of which considerations must naturally
conduce to the increase of population, but also the discoveries of gold diggings in the Gila River. These facts,
doubtless, have contributed much to the settlement of
the country.
Such, sir, is briefly my judgment with regard to the
population of the Territory of Arizona. You know that
I have no reason to overestimate the number of inhabitants there; and what I state is no more than an impartial statement of fact, which you are at liberty to make
such use of as you may best think.
Truly yours, etc.           MIGUEL A. OTERO.
Sylvester Mowry, Esq.
196 
Correspondence.
From S. T. 7inge, Esq/.
San Francisco, Cal., February 22d, 1863.
MY DEAR Sin,-I have received your letter stating
your intention to republish simultaneously here and New
York your lecture upon'Arizona and Sonora, and asking
me to give you my impressions of Sonora formed during
a recent visit to that state. The republication of your
lecture in view of the general attention now being directed to the countries bordering upon the Gulf of California
will be opportune, and I regret my inability to add any
thing of value to the information it will embody.
.Iy exploration of Sonora was limited to the territory
lying between Guaymas and the rich mineral district of
-San Xavier. The section of Sonora included between the
lines of 27~ and 30~ north latitude presents a remarkable
combination of advantages. The climate is every where
salubrious, from the Gulf to the Sierra Madre, and so mild
and genial that the fruits of the tropics ripen in the month
of January in the foot-hills of the mountains 120 miles
from the Gulf.
The surface is generally level, diversified here and there
by isolated mountains, conical or table-topped, which give
grandeur to the landscape without occupying much of the
arable area. The soil is of great depth and richness, re sembling in many localities the lands of the Caney and
Brazos in Texas, but happily exempt from the malaria of
the latter. The sugar-cane and other valuable staples of
the tropics, and of the states bordering on the Gulf of
Mexico, may be successfully cultivated. As in Alabama,
the cereals will mature into a golden harvest separated
only by a hedge or a highway from the snowy fleece of
the cotton-plant. The mineral wealth of this state is tra ditional, and my examination of the district of San Xavier
has confirmed the truth of tradition. In this respect
1 97, 
Arizona and Sonora.
Sonora is entitled to precedence of all the states of
Mexico.
Having these natural elements of wealth and greatness,
with a sea-port unsurpassed in conveience and security,
I anticipate for Sonora the same rapid and wonderful development that has been realized in California.
Very respectfully yours,        S. W. ING,E.
Hon. Sylvester Mowry, San Francisco.
From2 Xajor C. E. Bennett, U. S. A.
San Francisco, Feb, 20th, 1863.
DEAR Sin, - In compliance with your request, I take
pleasure in stating that I resided in Arizona several
months. During the past year I traveled from California
to the Rio Grande and back, via Tucson.
Some portions of Arizona are valueless tracts of land,
but the greater part of the country lying between Tucson
and the Rio Grande is thejfiest pasture-land in America.
With water, which I have no doubt can be obtained in
ample quantities by Artesian boring, there are large portions that would become valuable agricultural districts.
The valleys of the Rio Grande, Gila, San Pedro, Santa
Cruz, and Mimbres Rivers will sustain a large population;
and I am informed that the valleys north of the Gila River
are rich, and heavily timbered. I constantly heard of
great mineral wealth, but firom my connection with the
army had no personal experience in the mines. The road
to the Rio Grande from.Tucson is the finest natural road
in the world.*
I am, sir, very respectfully, your obedient servant,
C. E. BENNETT, Major 1st Cav. C. V., U. S. A.
Hon. Sylvester Mowry.
* General P. St. George Cooke, U. S. A., said the same thing to me,
in Washington, some years ago -S. M.
198 
Correspondence.
DFon  Sam. F.    Butterworth, Esq.
New York City, May 25, 1864.
SIB,-Since reading your work upon Arizona and Sonora, I have made an extended journey into those regions
to examine certain mines, accompanied by three accomplished metallurgists and mining engineers  I take great
pleasure in saying that I find your work accurate and reliable, and in reference to the mineral and agricultural resources of those portions of Arizona and Sonora visited
by me, that your statements are confirmed not only by
my own observations, but also by the written opinions
of the eminent scientific gentlemen who accompanied me.
I have the honor to be your friend and servant,
SAM[. F. BUTTERWORTH.
Hon. Sylvester Mowry, of Arizona, etc., etc.
199 
Arizona and Sonora.
CHIAPTER XI.
THE GOVERNMENT AND THE MINES.
The Mines of the West: shall the Government seize them?-The
Mining States: how shall they be Taxed?
THE following letters, originally published in the New
York World of April 25, and the Hferald of May 4, 1864,
were received with so much favor, that I gladly acceded
to numerous requests to publish them in pamphlet form,
and have reproduced them in this volume. My own ex perience and knowledge of the subject convince me that
they contain the essence and the truth, and are exhaust ive of the subject; but I should be more than ungrateful
if I failed to acknowledge the warm terms of commenda tion which I have received from friends known, and oth ers heretofore unknown, including many names distin guished for sense, patriotism, ability, and high station.
To have in the least degree made clear the rights of
%the miner and the duty of the legislator would be gratifying, and I am glad to know that these letters have done
some good. Senator Conness, in a very able letter to the
Secretary of the Treasury, has taken ground in favor of a
tax at the mint, or public assay offices, on all bullion, either silver or gold, assayed, coupled with a law prohibiting the exportation of unstamped bullion. The objection
made to this is, that it is a tax upon the gross proceeds
of the mines. It is only just to Senator Conness to say
that he made this suggestion, knowing that some tax
would be laid by Congress, and he thinks this the least
onerous. His views, that any taxation that discriminates
against the miners is unjust, are fully in accord with my
own.
200 
T]te Governmnent and the Miazes.
It is much to be regretted that senators and representatives refuse obstinately to understand this question.
To those who persist in saying that these letters contain
a threat of secessions, I can only repeat, it is no more a
threat than it would be to say to a blind man on a pier,
"If you walk twenty steps you will fall into the sea."
Those who can not, or will not, distinguish between a
threat and friendly advice, will get no sympathy when
they come to grief.
THE MINES OF THE WEST: SHALL THE GOVERNMENT
SEIZE THEM?
To the Editor of the TWorld:
A resolution has been introduced in the House of Repsentatives authorizing the President of the United States
to take possession of the mines of Colorado and Arizona.
'Various other propositions have been made, all looking
to the best mode of devising a revenue from the mineral
lands for the support of the general government. It is
deemed, in view of these facts, eminently proper to submit to Congress andl the country some facts and arguments upon these great questions, so important to the
people of the firontier, so vital to the country, and so lamentably misunderstood by the public men of the old
states.
Why does not the resolution include the State of California and the Territories of Nevada, Idaho, and New
Mexico?  In all these the precious metals are mined to a
great extent on public lands. If the President is to take
possession, in the name of the United States, of a mine in
Arizona or Colorado, it follows by inevitable logic that
he must do so throughout all the public lands.
But what is a mine? It is not simply a portion of
public lands where there is an outcrop of gold, or silver,
or copper-bearing rock. A mine is a developed property,
I2
201 
Arizoza and Sonora.
where capital and labor have produced a certain result,
and which only has value according to the amount of labor and capital employed in demonstrating its extent
and capacity of production.  This necessitates the erection of extensive buildings, the purchase of costly machinery, sinking shafts, running tunnels and galleries, the expenditure of more or less money, often resulting in irretrievable loss, sometimes in great gain. Is it proposed,
in "taking possession of the mines," to take possession
also of the machinery, the houses, the mills, and the furnaces erected by individuals or companies at vast expense?
For example, the Gould and Curry, Ophir, and Mexican
mines in Nevada are undoubtedly on public lands.  The
proprietors of these mines have expended several millions
of dollars in permanent improvements, in the shape of
steam-engines, mills, furnaces, and roads. In opening
and bringing to the surface their ores they have expended nearly as much more. To-day they are deriving a
large income from the mines, upon which they pay the
usual income tax.
In Arizona, at the Mowry Silver Mines- individual
property-more than $300,000 in gold has been expended in improvements, $50,000 of which went to defend the
place against Indians when the government withdrew
wholly its protection from Arizona.  At the Heintzelman
Mine probably a similar sum has been expended.  At the
San Antonio Mine a large amount. On Colorado River,
in Arizona, at the newly-discovered silver and copper
mines, a very large sum. In the Territory of Colorado,
where the exclusive interest is in mining, as in Nevada,
and every branch of industry dependent on it, millions
have been expended in like improvements. Is it proposed, in taking possession of the mines, to take possession also of their improvements? They are all that make
202 
The Governinent and the Xinees.
the mines valuable.  Without them you can not get a
dollar of the metals so indispensable to the country now.
Does any sane man suppose it could be accomplished if
attempted; or, if successful, expect any other result than
the total annihilation of the only hope of redemption for
our redundant and increasing currency, viz., the production of the precious metals?
If the argument is good that the President, in the name
of the United States, may take possession of the "mines"
(i.e., the property of the miners-furnaces, mills, engines,
and houses), why not take possession of all the farms occupied by our frontier farmers on unsurveyed lands, who
produce grain and beef for the miners' supply, with the
houses and grist-mills, and horses and cattle which they
feed on the public domain? If the miners are trespassers, so are the farmers-more so, in fact, for the farmers
only exist because the miners find the money to pay for
their produce.
The logical sequence of this is indisputable, and the
passage of such a law as contemplated, if it could be enforced, would at once put an end to our extending civilization; and the great American desert, which has been
made, in spite of governmental negligence and worse, to
" blossom as the rose," would return to its pristine worthlessness.
Leaving out of the question the State of California,
where the miners' code, established in each mining district, is most wisely adopted by the Legislature and the
courts as a part of the public law, precisely as usage has
established the lex mercatoria; and where all the gold,
and silver, and copper has been produced by individual
enterprise or associated capital - look at Colorado and
Nevada. Two great and growing states have grown up
in a period wonderfully brief by the discovery and development of the mines.  Hostile tribes have been subdued,
203 
Arizonia and Soznora.
cities built, civilization extended, the Pacific drawn toward the Atlantic in a friendly and eternal grasp, every
branch of industry stimulated, an immense sum in actual
and transferable wealth added tp the commerce of the
world-how? By the action of the government? Stinmulated by the government?  A:ssisted by the government?  Xo; in spite of the government-without help,
without interference, except for the wvorse-by individual enterprise, and the marvelous,'indomitable energy of
the people. Something by associated capital; vastly more
by the strong arms and never-failing hearts of the imen of
all parts of the world.
Suppose these people had.Nvaited for the government
to survey these lands, and point out and lease these mines,
would Nevada or Colorado be known to-day?  And do
sensible men propose znoqo to take the proceeds of all this
labor and intelligence, and say to the miners, "You are
trespassers on the public domain?" Does any sane man
suppose there is power enough in this government, or
any other under the sun, to do it?
The incidental revenue derived already by the country
from the mines in operation is vastly more than could be
obtained from any sale of the public mineral lands that
could be devised, and the vast addition to the material
wealth of the world, and the exhibit of our material resources, every day increasing, show conclusively the wisdom of non-interference with a policy so eminently beneficial.
An inventor of some useful machine is invested by the
government with an exclusive right to his invention for
fourteen years-often this time is extended. He is protected by laws in his rights, and any one infringing upon
them is punished. In what does the inventor differ firom
the miner? The miner goes into the desert or the wilderness. At the risk of life and health, he discovers and
204 
The Governmnen2t and the Mines.
develops a mine. He adds, as does the inventor, to the
material wealth of the world; or more often he dies
alone, neglected, forgotten, his bones are gnawed by the
wolves, his fate unknown to his nearest friends, and his
memory a blank. The inventor is rewarded and protected, and his fame is at least dear to his kin. Is it proposed to take fiom the rarely successful miner the property he has created, brand him as a trespasser and a criminal, and, in the name of the government, which has never helped him and his peculiar business, say to him, "Your
labor, your brains, your courage, your property, belongs
to the United States; go look for more, and then we will
take that also?"
There is a case pertinent and on hand of the power of
the government to seize a mine.
In July, 1863., the President of the United States directed the United States Marshal for the Northern District of California to take possession of the New Almaden
Quicksilver 1fine.  General Wright, commanding the Department of the Pacific, was ordered to furnish troops to
enforce the seizure. The marshal and the troops proceeded on their errand, and found the mine fortified
against attack.  Did they seize the mine?  By no means.
The excitement throughout the state was intense.  The
present governor, F. F. Low, leading bankers, merchants,
and capitalists, telegraphed to Washington, "For God's
sake, withdraw the order to seize the New Almaden, or
there will be a revolution in the state." Did the miners telegraph to Washington?  No.  They armed themselves, and informed the superintendent of the Almaden
mines by telegraph that they were coming to his assisttance by hundreds and thousands, and the President of
the United States, with a rare discretion, not only recalled the order, but disavowed it, or his organ disavowed
it for him, saying it had been obtained by fraud, and
205
f 
Arizona and Sonora.
and the possessors remained in quiet possession of their
mine.
No stronger case in support of my argument can be adduced. The New Almaden mines were possessed by foreigners. They had often charged what the miners thought
exorbitant prices for quicksilver.  So far from there being
any sympathy for them, there was rather an antipathy
against them, and yet the state rallied as one man against
their being forcibly dispossessed of their mining property
by order of the President of the United States, in full
view of the cct that the Supreme Court had decided that
they had no title. Can not Congress draw wisdom from
this fact?
The United States once tried the plan of working mines,
and all the world knows how it succeeded. Let the issue
of the government scheme for working the Galena lead
mines be a warning against another attempt.  The danger and loss then was small. To-day both would be fatal.
How is the government to distinguish between mines
on public lands and those upon the old French and Mexican grants? No title is recognized in these old grants
until it is affirmed by the United States, and a patent issued. Chief Justice Field, of the Supreme Court of California, in his decision of the Mariposa (Fremont) case, full
of learning-and so sound in its law that it commands the
assent of every good lawyer and the concurrence of all
miners-declares that the minerals belong to the owner
of the grant. If to-day the government seizes a miine
upon lands which prove a year hence to be upon a Mexican grant, reclamation will surely follow. The trespasser
then becomes the government. Is it worth while taking
such a risk?
In 1859, I asked the HIon. Jacob Thompson, then Secretary of the Interior, the question, "If a man locates one
hundred and sixty acres of land, and finds a mine on it,
206 
The Governmnent and the Mines.
and works it successfully, and afterward Congress should
pass a law segregating the mineral lands, can his quarter
section be taken from him under such law, even if the
land taken up was unsurveyed?"  Mr. Thompson replied,
"ULndoubtedly not. The taking away from the miner the
land would be giving an ex post facto action of the law,
and the government would have lost its right to reclaim
by its own laches."  The Hon. John Cochrane, then M.
C., now Attorney General for the State of New York, was
present, and w-as appealed to by the Secretary for his
opinion.  Mr. Cochrane said, "The Secretary's opinion
was undoubtedly good law."  I asked Mr. Thompson for
his opinion as expressed in writing. He declined to give
it on the ground of inexpediency, and because it was only
a supposititious case. I presume IMr. Cochrane will remember, if he tries, this conversation.
A power like this proposed, if it could be made available, would give to the President an amount of patronage
fearful to contemplate. Every mine now in operation
would be placed in the hands of some favorite or political
aspirant. The proceeds of the rpine would go into the
capacious pockets of the innumerable tribe of leeches who
daily deplete the public treasury, and the government
would derive no revenue at all fromnt its apparent proprietorship.  A case clearly in point, which I ask pardon for
introducing, as it is my property of which I amn about to
speak.
Nearly two years ago, the Mowry Silver Miines in Arizona were seized by a brigadier general, whose name shall
not disgrace this letter, and a marshal of the United States,
in the name of the United States. The mines were then
producing about $700 per day; in a few weeks they would
have been producing $1500 per day, and by the close of
the year 1861 double that sum.
By a nice little arrangement between the brigadier gen
207 
Arizona a)pd Sonora.
eral and the marshal aforesaid, the mines were leased to
a third party in the name of the government for $100 per
month.  Net result to the government: $100 per month,
paid by the mine, and charged by the marshal for traveling expenses.  Result to the brigadier general and marshal: several thousand dollars per month. The worst of
the matter is to come. No improvements have been made
at the mines to increase their product; and instead of their
producing, as they can and ought, $5000 per day, they
produce no more than they did two years ago; and this
will always be the case if the government attempts to
work the mines on its own account.
Any such legislation as this proposed at once puts an
end to "prospecting," and the farther development of the
vast undiscovered mineral wealth of the country. Men
are not going to work, to have the profits of their labor
taken from them by hostile legislation.  Does the government intend to "prospect" on its own account? Where
is the authority to build miils and furnaces, and houses to
work the mines? And if the authority is found, where
is the government to get the money to do it?
The truth of the matter lies in a nutshell. No power
on earth can enforce any legislation which proposes to
take possession of the mines, and the sooner this is understood the better. The people of California, Colorado, Nevada, Idaho, and Arizona will rise en nmasse against it.
Therefore, let Congress be warned in time. The hold of
the Union on the Pacific empire is purely one of feeling
and sentiment.  Touch our mining tenure with a rough
hand, and you turn the warmest feeling of the strongest
Union man, the most earnest Democrat, and the most devoted Republican, into hate and undying enmity. We
have, through much suffering, out of your waste of worthless public domain, made thriving commonwealths.  Every part of the country is benefited by our labor, and, in
208 
The Government and the Migies.
our own way, we daily add to this store-more to the
country than to ourselves. For our part, in Arizona, neglected and oppressed by the government for years, nine
out of ten of us massacred by the Indians-what we have
made our own, gained by passing through the "very
shadow of death," is worth more than money can purchase.
Now that our property is safe and productive, and of great
value, we do not propose to surrender it, nor to be called
trespassers, nor to have it taken from us by legislation,
nor any thing but an overwhelming force.  I believe I
speak the sentiments of every man who owns or works a
foot of mining ground any where in the limits of the United States; and upon this point I beg the doubting to converse with any miner they know. Let any public man
question my distinguished friend, Mr. Justice Field, of the
Supreme Court, as to his opinion of such legislation as is
proposed upon the people of California.
The only rational way to treat this subject is to devise
an equitable mode of taxation, at the same time giving to
actual possessors of mines on public lands undisputed tenure.  The old Spanish mining ordinances-the collective
wisdom of three centuries-gave to the mining interest
every protection that could be devised; free importation
of machinery, quicksilver, all the aids to developing the
mines, gave undisputed and rigidly protected tenure to
the discoverer and purchaser of mines, enforced their laborers, and demanded, in return for government aid, a
fixed royalty, or tax, payable at the stamp (assay) offices
in each district established for that purpose.
In the infancy (magnificent thought it is) of our mineral development no better precedent can be followed than
the wisdom of the Spanish law.  Give the miners titles to
their mines, and impose a fair tax. It will be paid readily and honestly. If it is made onerous it will impede the
opening of new mines, and thus "kill the goose with the
golden egg."
209 
Arizona and Sonora.
While it is a great mistake to suppose all miners successful or all mines rich, it is an indubitable fact that mining is henceforth to be one of the great legitimate branches of industry in the country, inferior to none, constantly
growing, and the only hope of salvation to the country
from bankruptcy-the sole hope of paying even the interest on our public debt, as pledged, in gold. Let Congress
touch this matter delicately. Any legislation which proposes to take away from actual bonzafide possessors their
mines can have but one of two results-a forcible stoppage
of the production of the precious metals by a seizure of
the mines by an army larger than that now in the field,
or a rising of the people of the frontier that no army can
put down.  Is it wise to try the experiment?
Your obedient servant,
SYLVESTER MOWRY.
New York, April 24th.
THE MINING STATES: HOW SHALL THEY BE TAXED?
To the Eclitor of the New York fera'l:
In your issue of Tuesday last, you say, "Mr. Sylvester
Mowry has published a long letter, stating that the mining states would rebel, secede, and smash and nullify every thing, if Congress attempted to take possession of
what belongs to the government in those regions."
The -Herald has never treated any thing I have written in reference to Arizona or the Pacific slope unfairly,
and I am sure it does not intend to misrepresent my letter to the Forld.  But it appears to me quite clear that,
in your remarks quoted above, you beg the question at
issue: Do the mines that have been occupied and worked for years, without prohibition, and with the implied
assent of the government, and upon which costly irn —
210 
T/he Government and the Mines.
provements have been made, belong to the government?
The question is not, Shall the government seize its own?
but, Shall it take the property of the miners?
There can be no doubt of the right and powel of the
government to segregate the unoccupied mineral lands,
to appoint agents and scientific experts to examine and
select them, and to fix a price per acre or per foot. It is
purely a question of expediency; it would be, beyond
question, a most foolish thing to do. Any man of sense,
vwho examines the subject, can see this at a glance, if he
looks at what has been done without government inlterference by individual enterprise, and counts up the vast
addition to the productive power and wealth of the country derived from the mines now in operation. It is
equally clear that the government has neither the right
nor the power to seize the mines now held and worked
by actual possessors, and, I think, until some one shows
the contrary, that my letter to the World shows this conclusively.  At least every man, whether practical miner
or capitalist, who owns mining shares, agrees with me;
and neither in numbers nor means are we to be despised,
if it is to be made a question of force.
When did the government ever get more than the
price fixed by law for unsurveyed public lands, which had
been settled on, improved, and made worth thousands of
dollars per acre, instead of the entering price $1 25,
when they were surveyed and sold?
The sales of Leavenworth City, and other valuable
points in Kansas, are a good illustration.  In the_veiy
teeth of a large force of the regular army, these lands
were bid off by a combination of settlers at the government price, $1 25 per acre.  Any man who attempted to
bid over this price was then and there killed. That was
only "a tempest in a teapot;" but it is worth while remembering.  The House of Representative, has done
211 
Arizona and Sonzora.
wisely in laying on the table the very extraordinary
proposition of one of its members, authorizing the President to take possession of the mines of Colorado and
Arizona. I congratulate the Hon. Mr. Washburne upon
his very sensible remarks, "that the President could only
do it by use of military power, and that might produce
civil war;" and I am glad to find so eminent a Republican, and therefore government authority, so entirely in accord with the views of the miners.
There have been three propositions of decisive legislation upon the subject of the mines introduced in Congress-two in the House, and one in the Senate.  They
can only be characterized in their order of introduction,
bad, worse, worst.  Neither of the distinguished senators from California or Oregon, or the members of Congress from California or the mining territories, except
the unfortunate member from Colorado, have attempted
to touch this subject. Why? Because they knew its
difficulties, and, knowing them, are content to "let well
enough,alone."  It is a great pity that members or senators from the old states should not imitate their wise example. The product of their brains, and their knowledge
of the subject, thus far made public, afford a new reading
of an old line, "Fools rush in where wise men fear to
tread."
The Hercalcl, in the editorial of Sunday, May 1st, admits that mining is not always the successful business it
is generally represented to be, and that its profits are not
so great as generally imagined. Does it not follow from
this admission that all onerous taxation would be not
only unjust, but also unwise?
There are numerous mines in operation to-day which
produce large sums monthly, every dollar of which goes
to the further development of the mines, to the purchase
and erection of expensive machinery, and, in addition,'
212 
The Government and the 2intes.
large assessments are called for from the stockholders.
This is absolutely necessary for the success of the mines.
Generally stockholders are poor, interest is fabulously
high- from three to ten per cent. per month in mining
districts on mining stocks not paying dividends. If a
tax is laid on the gross proceeds of the mines, is it not at
once apparent that you impede, if not absolutely stop,
the further development of non-paying mines? One of
the most famous of the Nevada mines, the Mexican, owned in whole or in part by Duncan, Sherman & Co., had
its net income stopped for months, in a single day, by a
" slide." Had the owners been poor men, and the gross
proceeds been onerously taxed, the mine would have
stopped altogether, and so much have been taken from
the actual wealth of the country. This illustration applies with tenfold force to the mines ownedl and worked
by poor men, struggling along, paying enormous interest
-working like beavers, and living like beggars-on what,
after all, may, and too often does, prove a delusive hope.
It is proposed to tax such men and such property. It
amounts simply to taxing a man for what he has not got;
and, worse than that, to put to death all "prospecting,"
and to stop at once every mine that did not yield an
enormous profit.  The argument that the products of the
mines should pay an extra tax, because the mines are on
public lands, applies with equal force to the grain, the
beef, and every product of the settler on public lands.
Ill fact, if it is right to discriminate, the discrimination
should be against the farmei or the grazier, as his work
is light, and his capital nothing compared with that of
the miner, while his profits are more certain. Such a
policy is certainly unjust. It is, beyond question, unwise.
Hardly was my letter to the World telegraphed to
California, with the news that Congress proposed a tax
213 
Arizona and Sonora.
of five per cent. on the gross yield of the mines, before
the wires sent back a loud remonstrance from all parts
of the state. The telegram to the Associated Press says,
"Considerable excitement prevailed over the state in
consequence of the proposition to tax mining produce
five per cent. The policy is thought to be wrong, and
the tax excessive."
A dispatch to Duncan, Sherman & Co., from their San
Francisco correspondents (Alsop & Co.), which has been
kindly placed at my disposal, says:
"San Francisco, April 30, 1864.
" Do all in your power to prevent the passage of the
law taxing the gross proceeds of mines. It will be ruinous to California."
Again, the general dispatch of May 2d, says:
"Best mining stocks have depreciated five per cent.,
owing to the proposition to tax mines. Great feeling is
manifested on the subject. Nothing has been heard from
the interior yet."
Do you propose to fan this flame of discontent into
a fire you can not quench? Is it prudent or politic to
interfere with a system which has worked so well for
nearly half a generation? Is the senator from Michigan
wise enough to devise a scheme which will reduce to a
system in Washington all the mining laws of all the mining districts in California and the mining territories?
Does he, or any other public man, understand the subject
so well that he can, at one stroke of his pen, "wipe out"
a system which has worked so well, and which forms an
integral part of the jurisprudence of California, Nevada,
Colorado, and Oregon, and under which vested rights of
years' standing have been established?
For many years the manufacturers of cotton goods and
214 
The Government and the Maines.
of iron were protected by a high tariff. To-day the cod
fisheries are protected and rewarded with bounties. Is
it now proposed, in the very death-agony of the republic,
to strike a fatal blow, by unjust and suicidal taxation, at
the very greatest hope of the country, viz., the protection
of the precious metals?
The wisest thing that the present Congress can do —
the only thing it can do of service to the government and
justice to the miner-is to impose a fair tax on the net
proceeds of the mines. A system of mining laws can not
be made in a day, if it is expected to be useful or to be
enforced.  The man who devises a code of mining laws
which shall do equal justice to the rightful claims of the
government and to the just claims of the miner -which'
provides a fair revenue and yet secures the title to the
actual possessor of the mines, will approve himself a
statesman indeed, and will deserve well of his country.
His fame will rest upon a secure foundation, and "will
endure, not for twenty, years but for twenty centuries."
Nothing in my letter to the World, nor in this, can
fairly be construed as a threat.  It is no more a threat
than it would be to say to a blind man on a pier, totally
ignorant of his position, "If you walk twenty steps forward you will fall into the sea." I have made a simple
statement of facts, supported by what we (the miners,
not the speculators nor "bubble" blowers) conceive to
be sound argument, founded on right, equity, and justice.
If these facts can be denied, or these arguments controverted, let some one undertake it. The importance of
the subject can hardly be overestimated. Mr. Caleb
Cushing, in a letter addressed to me a short time since,
says:
"Porter, in his'Progress of the Nation,' shows how
the augmented demand for British coal and iron, by reason of the introduction of steam as a motive power, and
215 
Arizona and Sonora.
that of railroads, saved Great Britain from bankruptcy
during the generation next following the close of her protracted struggle with Napoleon and France. I look to
our mineral resources, not of iron and coal only, but of
gold, silver, mercury, copper, lead, zinc, as the most probable means of our salvation in the years next after the
conclusion of the present unhappy civil war."
There can not be a thinking man in this country who
does not believe that this opinion is sound. All that we
(the miners) desire is, that common sense shall prevail,
as much for the benefit of the government as for our own
interests. Your obedient servant,
SYLVESTER MOWRY.
- New York, May 2,1864.
216 
The Southern Railroad Route to the PaCiic.  217
CIIAPTER XII.
THE SOUTHERN RAILROAD ROUTE TO THE PACIFIC.*
Jefferson Davis on the Route of the 32d Parallel: All Routes present
Obstacles; this the fewest.-Lieutenant Parke's Surveys. -Dis  tances.-The Office Examination.-The Jornado.- Water and
Timber.-Distances and Elevations.-Mr. A. H. Campbell's Report.
-Temperature.-Opinions of Marcy and Emory.-Table of Com  parative Lengths and Costs.-General Considerations.-National
Importance of a Pacific Railroad.
I WILL now proceed to the consideration of the only
remaining line, the route of the thirty-second parallel. I
hope I am not expected to make it quite smooth, or
find water at convenient distances, cultivable land, and
timber continuously along the route. I know of no such
route across our Territories. I wish I did. If there
were a route where it was thus made easy to build a rail
* The following summary of the advantages of the Southern Route
along the 32d parallel (which traverses Arizona) is from the conclusive speech of the Hon. Jefferson Davis in the Senate of the United
States, delivered in January, 1859. This extract formed the appendix to the first edition of this work. It is reproduced here, as no later
investigations invalidate the statements then made. The political
events which have taken place since the delivery of this speech in no
wise alter the physical facts here so clearly set forth. No one could
deal more fully and intelligibly with the great subject of a railroad
communication across the continent than has Mr. Davis; and I have
no comment to make upon his complete vindication of the Southern
Route, except to say that the officers of the army who made these explorations are men who understand their duty, and have no object to
subserve except to gain an honorable reputation by the fidelity and
thoroughness of their reports. I am able, from personal observation,
to bear testimony to the signal ability with which these duties have
been discharged. It is understood that Lieutenant J. C. Ives, Topographical Engineer, who assisted Captain Whipple in his survey of
the 35th parallel route, called the Albuquerque, and who has since
been over both this and the 32d parallel, gives the most decided preference to the Southern Route.-S. M. 
Arizona and Sonora.
road, we might'feel a more happy security for the future.
It would bring in its train not only the construction of
such a work, but that continuous population which is
needful to bind the two parts of the country together.
Knowing no such line, I believe it is a Herculean task to
construct the road, attempt it where you will. Go on
what parallel of latitude you may, all you can do is to
take the least of most serious obstacles. I reached the
conclusion that the difficulties were least on the thirtysecond parallel; not that they were light. This conclusion was based upon the information possessed at that
time. Subsequent explorations have materially improved
the location upon the route, as I shall proceed to show,
first describing the section from the Rio Grande to the
Pimos villages. The office examinatioh says:
" After ascending from the bottom lands of the Rio Grande, in traversing the region examined by Lieutenant Parke between these two
rivers, from Doioa Ana to the Pimos villages, one appears to be traveling on a great plain, interrupted irregularly and confusedly by bare,
rugged, abrupt, isolated mountain masses, or short ranges, seemingly,
though not in reality, without system. Winding around these isolated
or lost mountains, or using a few passes through them, a railroad may
be constructed with easy grades. Except through the mountain passes, the surface is so smooth as to require but little preparation to recerve the superstructure of a railroad; and even in the two most difficult of the passes (where, in one case, deep cutting or a tunnel at the
summit, near the surface, in rock, with heavy side-cuttings and high
embankments for short distances, and in the other a short cut of sixty
feet - probably through rock- are proposed by Lieutenant Parke to
attain grades of forty-six feet and ninety feet per mile, or less by increasing distance) the natural slope of the ground may be used for a
railroad for temporary purposes, and until the road itself can reduce
the cost of materials and supplies to the lowest rates."
The re-survey by Lieutenant Parke shows that these
two most difficult passes may be avoided. In relation to
the supply of water upon this part of the route, the report
of the secretary says:
218 
The Southern Railroad Route to the Pacific.   219
I The great difficulty experienced in crossing this district is in the
long distances over which no water is found at certain seasons. The
survey by Lieutenant Parke was made during the dryest season of the
year, and, irrespective of the springs found at intermediate points, the
whole distance between the two rivers Rio Grande and Gila may be
divided into five spaces, varying from eighty to fifty-three miles in
length, at the termination of which large permanent supplies of water
are found at the most unfavorable season of the year."
These spaces and points are:
From the Rio Grande to the Rio Mimbres.........................71 miles.
From the Rio Mimbres to the stream of the Valle del Saux...72 "
From the Valle del Saux to the San Pedro....................... 80
From the San Pedro to Tucson......................................53
From Tucson to the Gila..............................................79
Intermediate between these streams  are permanent
springs, and the new survey has improved the location
in this respect. In his last report Lieutenant Parke
states:
"The supply of water upon the plateau is limited.  Along and near
the proposed line it is found at the following localities, and from these
the working-parties can be supplied: at Neide's Spring, at the southwest corner of the basaltic hills, east of Cooke's Springs; Rio Mimbres; Agua Fria; Ojo de la Vaca; Ojo de Inez; Valle del Saux; in
the Puerto del Dado; Croton Springs; at the Playa de los Pimos;
Castro Spring, near the railroad pass under Mount Graham; Pheasant Creek; Antelope and Dove Springs, at the base of the Calitro
Mlountains; and at Bear Springs, at the head of the Aravaypa. The
distance in direct lines from one of these localities to another are as
follows:
From the Rio Grande to Neide's Spring...........................40 miles.
From Neide's Spring to Cooke's Spring...........................12
From Cooke's Spring to the Rio Mimbres........................21
From Rio Mimbres to Agua Fria....................................15 "
From Agua Fria to Ojo de la Vaca................................. 6
From Ojo de la Vaca to Ojo de Inez............................... 12
From Ojo de Inez to Valle del Saux...............................40
From Valle del Saux to Puerto del Dado.........................23
From Puerto del Dado to Castro Spring..........................30 "
From Puerto del Dado to Croton Springs.........................30  
1Ari,ona and Sonora.
From Castro Spring to Croton Springs.............................18 miles.
From Croton Springs to Pheasant Creek...........................12   c
From Pheasant Creek to Antelope Spring......................... 3   "
From Antelope Spring to Dove Spring............................ 2  "
From Dove Spring to Bear Spring..................................16 "
"On the San Pedro route, water is abundant and convenient at
Chameleon Spring and Prospect Creek, and in the entire valley of the
Rio San Pedro. Besides these permanent supplies, water is found,
after the rains, on the playas and in depressions in the drains."
It has been argued, and I think successfully, that if the
road were built, it might be worked from one supply of
water to another; but that has never satisfied my mind
in relation to the difficulty which presents itself in building the road. Without tanks or wells, I do not see how
the road is to be built, how working parties are to be
sustained, with the distances which are found upon every
route which has been surveyed. The facilities for making such artificial reservoirs upon this part of the  32d
parallel route are thus favorably described by Lieutenant
Parke:
"For the working parties in the construction of the road, during
the dry season, water can be obtained from the several above-mentioned permanent sources of supply; but this will involve, of necessity,
much haulage, the maximum distance being twenty-three miles. But
I am clearly of the opinion that water can be obtained at other points
along and near the line of construction by sinking common wells.
These playa formations are particularly favorable. Being basinshaped, they receive and retain the drainage from the surrounding
country, giving us natural reservoirs,* which require only to be tapped
to give a constant and plentiful supply.".
I will now proceed to describe the section west of the
Pimos villages. The office examination states:
"We have now reached the Gila, seven miles above the Pimos villages, the elevation above the sea being 1365 feet. From this point to
its junction with the Colorado, the valley of the river is highly favora
* New discoveries of springs have been made since Parke's report,
and will continue to be as the country is opened.-S. M.
220 
The Southern Railroad-Route to the Pacific.  221
ble to the construction of a railroad. There will be no necessity for
embankments against freshets, but trifling occasional cutting anid fill
ing; and, in those instances where the hills close in upon the river,
there is ample space for the road without heavy cutting. The elevation at the mouth of the river being 108 feet, and the distance between
the two points 223 miles, we have a general slope of five and six tenths
feet per mile, which, from the favorable character of the ground, may
be assumed as the grade of the road.
"Water and fuel for working parties are sufficient, though no grass.
Logs may be driven down the Gila from the Moyogan Mountains at
its source, from the-Pinal Lleno, and down the San Francisco and Salinas Rivers, from the pine forests on the former, and the mountains at
the source of the latter.
"But it may be found more economical to receive all the supplies of
lumber needed for the western portion of the road either from the San
Bernardino Mountains and Pass, or from the harbor of San Pedro or
Diego, or, should it be found desirable to establish one, from the depot
near the mouth of the Gila."
Senators will perceive that I am here explaining the
basis on which I formed the opinion which governs my
vote in this case. I have no controversy with any body.
I do not expect to satisfy gentlemen that their routes are
not as good as they wish them; but I am dealing with
the facts as they are contained in the reports, to justify
me in the opinion which I have officially expressed, and
on which I am now acting in my proposition to grant a
given sum to make a railroad. I have not encountered
all this labor in a mere spirit of controversy.
"The most favorable point for crossing the Colorado is at the junction of the Gila, where the river is narrowest, 650 feet wide, and has
bluffs on both banks.
"The direction that the road should take across the desert interven ing between it and the foot of the Coast Range depends, in part, upon
the position of the pass by which it crosses this mountain chain.
There are two passes known and explored: Warner's,the more south erly of the two, will require five miles of excavation in granite and
mica slate for the full width of the road, the grades varying from 130
to 190 feet per mile.
"The distances from the mouth of the Gila, over the desert, to the 
Arizona and Sonora.
entrance of this pass, is eighty miles; thence to San Diego is 150 miles.
The San Gorgonio or San Bernardino Pass, on the contrary, is remarkably favorable. It is an open valley, from two to five miles wide, the
surface smooth and unbroken, affording in its form and inclination every facility and no obstruction to the building of a railroad."
This plain, eighty miles in width, has been treated as a
desertjornado, although there are springs and wells upon
it; and the water of the Colorado, sometimes overflowing
or rising in the middle of the plain, forms what is called
New River. The plain is certainly deficient in water; but
it is evidently a delta formation, and not a desert in the
sense of being unproductive because of its constituent elements. It is all of alluvial formation, clearly once belonging to the Colorado, and habitually overflowed by it; but
the deposit on the banks of the stream having enough
moisture and tenacity to catch the sand driven upon it by
prevailing winds, at last became a natural levee or barrier
sufficient to restrain the floods, and long drought rendered the alluvial plain west of the river entirely sterile.
Thus, I am informed, it is now along the Rio Grande.
When the cultivation of a field is abandoned, left for but
a few years without irrigation, sterility ensues; but it can
be restored to fertility by again supplying it with moisture.
The supply of timber upon this whole route is deficient.
The points where it may be obtained are thus stated in
the office-examination:
"Let us assume the most unfavorable case for supplies of ties and
lumber over that portion of the route between the eastern limit of the
Llano Estacado and the summit of the San Gorgonio Pass, 1052 miles
-that is, that they must be brought from either end of the road, say 300
miles from the eastern limit of the Llano Estacado, and from the port
of San Pedro on the Pacific, 100 miles from the summit of the San
Gorgonio Pass, making the points of supply 1400 miles apart: the
greatest distance to which they must be transported from each end is,
therefore, 700 miles by the road, the point of junction of supplies from
the east and west being about 110 miles west of the Rio Grande.  Lumber can undoubtedly be procured in the Red River district for $30 per
222 
The Southern Railroad Route to the Pacific.  223
1000 feet. The additional cost for transportation to the Llano, 300
miles by the railroad, at three cents per ton per mile (double the usual
cost on eastern railroads), is $13.2, and its cost there $43-2 per 1000
feet; the cost per 1000 feet for 450 miles additional transportation is
$20, and hence the cost per 1000 feet at this extreme point will be $632'.
The mean cost over these 400 or 450 miles from the eastern limit of the
Llano Estacado will be $52.2 per 1000 feet. From Fulton to the Llano
it is unnecessary to estimate its cost.
"Lumber may be delivered at San Pedro or San Diego from Oregon
for $30 per 1000 feet. Abundance of it can be got out from the San
Bernardino and other mountains near the line of the road at that cost,
and it may be assumed, therefore, to be supplied at San Pedro or San
Diego at that price, and at a mean cost over the road (the road supplying itself, as it must do, sections of 40 or 50 miles being built at a
time) of $46 per 1000 feet.
"The worst case having been discussed, it remains to be said that
good ties and lumber can be obtained from the Guadalupe and Hueco
Mountains, from the head waters of the Rio Mimbres, from the Pinal
Lleno, Salinas River, and head waters of the San Francisco, and from
the San Bernardino Mountains* of the Sierra Nevada or Coast Range,
which sources of supply may be found to materially obviate the necessity of transporting lumber from the two ends of the road."
In fine, it may be said that the route of the 32d parallel
from the 1Iississippi River to the Pacific Ocean is the
shortest of those explored, its length being from 100 to
400 miles less than the shortest of the other routes; it is
likewise the shortest route to San Francisco, being 100
miles shorter than any other. The vast uncultivable belt
through which all the routes must pass is crossed by the
route of the 32d parallel where the width is least, its
length through this regionl being 200 miles shorter than
any other line. The mountain region on this route has
the least elevation, and the table-lands preponderate to a
greater degree than on the other routes.
It is the most economical route; the estimated cost to
* And from the Santa Cruz and Santa Rita Mountains in Arizona,
near the line of the road, a section of Arizona never examined by Lieutenant Parke.-S. M. 
Arizona and,Sonora.
the Pacific being from eighteen to twenty million dollars less than that of any other, and to San Francisco
$10,000,000 less; the cheapness of the construction being
due to the great extent of plains and table-lands, where
the road-bed preparation required is slight.
The mountain passes are open, and their natural slopes
admit of temporary use without costly preparation. The
winters are so mild that no difficulties, impediments, or
dangers from snow and ice are to be apprehended, and
this admits of the use of steep grades, and greatly facilitates construction.
On all the routes unusual means must be resorted to
for supplies of water at the distances common on railroads. The intervals between the large permanent supplies on the route of the 32d parallel are not too great for
the working of a railroad, but additional supplies, at shorter distances, may be collected by tanks or wells.
In the uncultivable belt that separates the Mississippi
valley from the Pacific slope, occasional areas of arable
soil are to be found. The route of the 32d parallel is
neither less favorably situated in this respect, nor in mineral wealth, than those in other latitudes, nor is the supply of building materials and timber materially less on
this route than on the others, excepting an interior portion of the route near the 49th parallel.
In confirmation of the opinion expressed in the secretary's report upon the comparative advantages of the 35th
and 32d parallel routes, I wish to refer to the testimony
of a civil engineer who has traveled over both, and looked
at them with a view to the construction of a railroadMr. Albert H. Campbell.  He was first connected with
Captain Whipple's party for exploring the route near the
35th parallel; subsequently with that of Lieutenant Parke
when re-examining the route near the 32d parallel. I intend to read from a letter which I find addressed by him
224 
The Southern Railroad Route to.the Pacigfc.   225
to the Hon. Guy M. Bryan, of Texas, in relation to the
Pacific railroad, published in 1858. On the first page he
sets forth his total indifference as to which of the two
routes may be selected, and the absence of any pecuniary
motive to influence him in one way or the other. He says:
"I have no pecuniary or landed interest in the E1 Paso route, and
consequently have no motive for my preference, except an honest conviction, derived from personal observation, that it is emphatically the
most practicable, cheapest, and shortest route between the Mississippi
River and the Pacific Ocean; and the country through which it passes, as a whole, will compare favorably with any other route in agricultural and pastoral resources, and in mineral wealth, and that it is
the only route that can be successfully worked during the entire year."
"It is practicable to construct a railroad along the Albuquerque
route, as reported by Captain Whipple; but I maintain, and am willing to leave it to the decision of the ablest impartial railroad engineer
in the country, that it can not be done without an immense outlay of
treasure in preparing a road-bed, and exceeding by at least twenty-five
per cent. the cost of constructing a road of equal length over the 32d
parallel."
Of the climate he says:
" In regard to the climate of winter on the Albuquerque route, I am
satisfied that it will be found too cold to work a railroad successfully
for at least three, if not four months of the year. The recorded experience of six winters at Fort Defiance, only twenty miles in latitude
north of Campbell's Pass, and about the same elevation-as I observed
when I went to that post in November, 1853, through Campbell's Pass,
though the Army Meteorological Register, page 641, put it down (or
rather up) to' 7200 (?) feet' above the level of the sea-must be taken
as conclusive of the fact of its being at times extremely cold.
"At Albuquerque, according to the meteorological report of the
medical department of the United States Army, the maximum and
minimum temperatures respectively were, for the winter months of
1849 and 1850-in December, 53~, 5~; January, 49~, 12~ below zero;
February, 57~, 17~.  For 1850 and 1851-in December, 52~, 5~ below
zero; January, 57~, 8~; February, 59~, 7~. For 1852 and 1853-in
December, 650, 21~; January, 65~, 19~; February, 66~, 130. For
1853 and 1854-in December, 66~, 20~; January, 630, 5~0; February,
670, 15~; and in December, 1854, 580, 190.
K2 
Arizona and Sonora.
"At Fort Defiance, about twenty miles north of Campbell's Pass in
latitude, and from 300 to 500 feet higher, the maximum and minimum
temperatures respectively were, for the month of December, 1851, 62~,
4~; 18 inches snow.   For 1852 and 1853-in December, 50~, 2~;
January, 55~, 7~; February, 56~, 6~. For 1853 and 1854-in December, 57~, 60; January, 49~, 20~ below zero; February, 54~, 2~.
For 1854 and 1855-December, 65~, 10~; January, 59~, 17~ below
zero; February, 61~, 13~. For 1855 and 1856-December, 56~, 250
below zero; January, 54~, 8~ below zero; February, 51~, 3~ below zero.
A great error has been committed in supposing that
because the 35th parallel route is in a southern latitude,
it must be in a warm country. Temperature depends as
much upon elevation as upon latitude; and fertility results, not from'the constituent elements of the soil alone,
but from the meteorological conditions of the atmosphere
also. Here is an elevation of 7000 feet above the sea, and
a country of extreme aridity. The air from the ocean
deposits the moisture it possessed in passing over the
mountain  ranges before it reaches this plain.   Over it
broods  a forbidding sterility, and across it the wvinter
wvinds sweep withl  a degree of cold scarcely less intense
than that found in any portion of our country. At the
close of this table the writer says:
"The table above will give a fair idea of the climate of the country.
The winter of 1855 and 1856 was more severe than any one known for
many years.  The wintry weather commenced on the 1st of November,
1855, and has continued up to the present time (March 14,1856).  The
Rio Grande, at Albuquerque, was frozen over, and with ice sufficiently
strong to bear a horse and carreta. Those Indians who live habitually
to the north of Fort Defiance were obliged to abandon that portion of
the country and move south, with their flocks and herds, in quest of
grazing, on account of the depth of snow, which, in the mountains, at
whose base the fort is situated, was over two feet in depth in March,
1856. "-Correspondence of J. Leatherman, Assistant Surgeon United
States Army; Smithsonian Report, 1855, page 287.
Speaking of the immense exposure encountered on this
elevated plain in winter, Mr. Campbell says:
"The imagination can readily picture the terrible calamity which
would inevitably befall a train-load of passengers en route for the Pa
226 
TlIe Southern Railroad Route to the Pacific.  227
cific if an accident of a similar kind should stop their progress midway
upon one of those desolate artemisia districts between the Ojo de Gallo
and the Little Colorado, and between the valley of the Big Sandy Fork
and the sink of the Mohave, where no human habitation can ever exist
between the permanent water stations."
lIe treats of the supply of water in the same manner
as the authors of the official reports. He notices the fact
that Captain MIarcy, having traveled over the 35th, and
then over the 32d parallel route, testified in favor of the
latter as an emigrant route.  Citing the opinion of Major
Emory as to the route on the 32d parallel, he says:
"In an allusion to the subject of the railroad (on page 51, first volume of Mexican Boundary Reports), he [Major Emory] emphatically
declares, of the advantages gained by the last, or Gadsden treaty, that
it'has secured what the surveys made under the orders of the War
Department demonstrate to be the most feasible, if not the only practicable route for a railway to the Pacific.'"
The comparison instituted in the office, when the fieldwork of the various explorations was reported, was to fulfill the requirements of Congress, to find the most practical and economical route for a railroad from the Mississippi River to the Pacific Ocean, I am not engaged now
in the investigation of that exact question, the problem
being merely that of crossing the Territories; but as the
practicability of effecting a connection between the Mississippi and Pacific may control in any action of Congress, a table has been prepared which presents in a condensed form the distances and the comparative cost of
each route from the Mississippi River to the Pacific Ocean.
Whether this estimated cost be too high or too low, it is
not for that purpose needful to inquire.  The object was
to approach as nearly as possible to accuracy of comparison, not to give an absolute statement of the cost. This
is all that has ever been claimed for the office estimates of
the cost; and this is the reason why the estimates of chiefs
of parties have been modified, so as to bring them to the
,nine comparative scale.  I submit the table to the Senate: 
228              Arizona and Sonora.
Table showing the Lengths, comparative Costs, etc., of the
several Routes explored for a Railroad from the Mis   sissippi to the Pacic.
m~~~ o
~     o
ROUTEs.             P           2  VP         ~
~P,                   
Route near forty-seventh and
forty-ninth parallels, from
St. Paul to Seattle........
Route near forty-seventhi and
forty-ninth parallels, from
St. Paul to Vancouver....
Route near forty-first and for ty- second parallels, from
Rock Island, via South Pass
to Benicia................
Route near thirty-eiglith and
thirty-ninth parallels, from
St. Louis, via Coo-chee-to  pa and Tah-ee-chay-pah
Passes to San Francisco...
Route near thirty-eighth and
thirty-ninth parallels, from
St. Louis, via Coo-chee-to  pa and Madeleine Passes to
Benicia..................
Route near thirty-fifth paral  lel, from Memphis to San
Francisco................
Route near thirty-second par  allel, from Memphis to San
Pedro...................
Route near thirty-second par  allel, from Gaines's Land  ing to San Francisco by
Coast route..............
Route near thirty-second par  allel, from Gaines's Land  ing to San Pedro.........
Route near thirty-second par  allel, from Gaines's Land  ing to San Diego.........
lu The  ascnt adidego cents..68 between Rock   000 Islan      1159 Coni5l  r  o  nw,7
* The ascents and descents between Rock Island and Council Bluffs are not known,
and therefore not included in this sum.
t The ascents and descents between St. Louis and Westport are not known, and
therefore not included in this sum.
t The ascents and descents between Memphis and Fort Smith are not known, and
therefore not included in this sum.
~ The ascents and descents between Gaines's Landing and Fulton are not known,
and therefore not included in this sum.
F..t
6,044
6,044
Mil..
1955
isoo
F.t
18,654
1T,645
135,ST1,000
125,781,000
535
ST4
1490
1490
1400
8,313
2209
,120- 122,TTO,000 899
2325 49,985
pl.eticable. 865
1460
032
2535
2366
2000
56,514t
48,521t
43,862t
Imp'cticable.
113,009,000
99,000,000
915
.916
690
984
558
1620
1450
1400
10,032
T,550
T,550
2lT4
lT48
38,200~
30,181~
94,000,000
72,000,000
1190
1190
5,71T
5,717
168
3,454
72,000,000 524
1159
5,71T 
The Southlemn Railroad Route to the Pacic.  229
In volume seven of the Railroad Reports, a table will
be found with which this very generally corresponds, the
difference being that some of the surveys having commenced at anterior points - one, for instance, at Council
Bluffs, and another at Fort Smith -the estimates of the
reports are made from those points. Here they have
been extended to the Mississippi River. The table in
volume seven is also here modified by the supposition
that the reported practicability of the Cceur d'Alene Pass
is correct, and thus the total sum estimated for the route
near to the 49th parallel has been reduced. No additions
have been made for those difficulties which, in addressing
the Senate, I have stated had come to my knowledge
since the preparation of my report, because information
not derived from instrumental survey is not accepted as
the basis of estimate.
I have only to add that, looking to the grant of land
and of money with which Texas has endowed her railroad
company, and to the interest which would be brought
to bear for the extension of the Texas road to the Rio
Grande by a company formed to build a road from the
Rio Grande to the Colorado, I believe the sum of money
and the grant of land contained in my substitute, although
the smallest proposed by any one, will secure the con struction of the road across that intermediate territory,
will insure the extension of the road of Texas to the Rio
Grande; and that, having reached the Colorado, Califor nia will charter a company to extend it to San Diego, to
San Pedro, or to San Francisco. Most probably a com pany, if incorporated to build a railroad from Fort Yuma
to San Francisco, would first connect with the ocean at
San Pedro, and thus command a more prompt return for
their investment in the road than if they awaited its final
completion to San Francisco.
I have endeavored, during the progress of this debate, 
Arizona and Sonora.
to ascertain how much of the land in the valley of the
Santa Clara and the Salinas might inure to the benefit of
a company undertaking to build a road. It is all known
to be of the highest fertility, and blessed with a climate
not inferior to any within the limits of the United States.
If it is possible for the company to obtain near to that
line even one half of the amount of land proposed to be
granted, I rely upon the accuracy of Lieutenant Parke's
estimates to establish the fact that the road might be
built there for the land grant alone. Whenever California shall charter a company to build this road within her
own limits, and that company shall ask Congress for a
grant to construct it, I can not doubt that the interest of
the United States will warrant Congress in making such
a grant. Thus is reached the conclusion that the Texas
road will be drawn on to make a junction with the road
built in the Territory, and that the latter, when built to
the Colorado, will certainly be extended to the Pacific.
The eastern terminus of the Texas road wvill be available
to all the roads which ramify throughout the United
States, and be connected, in a very short time, with every
important point from St.Paul to Galveston.
If the facts which have been thus imperfectly grouped
and presented to the Senate sustain the conclusion that
this result is to be attained by so small a sum of money,
it may reasonably be claimed that all who desire the construction of a road across thie Territory, with complete
connections throughout the states, are bound to sustain
the proposition which I have submitted.
My position is, that the completion of this great work
is necessary to the due execution of the functions of the
general government; that it will not be achieved by private capital alone, therefore that we should strike off every shackle which impedes its execution - should abandon the right to collect duty on the iron employed; give
230 
Tyle Southern Railroad Route to the Pac~c.  231
the whole limit of the United States from which to select
a route; extend every aid we can constitutionally afford,
and to insure the construction of the road somewhere, be
it where it may, so that it is on the soil of the United
States. If, by haggling over petty sectional controversies-if, by sticking in the dark, and destroying the energy of the Constitution, politicians shall defeat the efforts
which have been made from session to session - shall
prostrate the last hope for this road across the continent,
and, thus unprepared, should we become involved in a
war with the great maritime powers of Europe, they may,
when it is too late to avert the disasters which hlav* been
so often foretold, have cause to pray for the mountains
to fall upon and cover them from public indignation-to
them may attach the blame, on us all may press the
shame and the sorrow of having lost to the country a
territory worth innumerable treasure, of having forfeited
that the value of which can not be measured by moneythe prestige of stability, progress, and invincibility, and
the right to inscribe on our national shield, EQUAL TO
TIlE PROTECTION OF A CONTINENT-WIDE REPUBLIC. 
Arizo,ta and Sonora.
CHAPTER XIII.
THE SILVER MINES OF ARIZONA.*
The San Antonio Mine.-Aspect of the Region.-The Mowry Mines.
-Scene at the Hacienda.-Pay-day.-Labor and Laborers.-His tory of the Mines.-Lieutenant Mowry.-Yield of the Mines. Country and Climate.-Santa Rita Mines.-The Hacienda.-The
Salero Mines.-The Ores.-Grazing.-The Sopori Ranch.-The
Country and the Mines.-Prospects.-The Heintzelman Mine. The Country.-Past and Present of the Mines.-The Ores.-Mex ican Thieves. - The Arivaca Mines. - The Country. - Arizona
Mining Company.-Surrounding Mining Region.-The Cahuabia
District.- The Mines.-The Bahia Mines.-General Conclusion.
THE  SAN  ANTONIO  MINE.-A  pleasant drive of two
hours through the beautiful valley of the Santa Cruz
brought us to the hacienda of the San Antonio Mining
Company, now under the charge of Mr.Yerbes, an intelligent American, who received us with great kindness
and hospitality. The buildings of the hacienda do not
admit of very sumptuous accommodation, but here, at
least, we found, for the first time since leaving Tucson, a
living nucleus of American civilization: houses with fireplaces, and fires in them; rude attempts at beds and ta  * Mr. J. Ross Browne, the famous traveler, has just returned from
an extended trip in Arizona, of which he is to furnish an account
through the pages of Harper's Magazine. Learning that he was to
give an account of the silver mining region, I requested the publishers to insert such portions of this as bore directly upon this topic, as a
supplementary chapter of my work. They kindly consented to do
this, in advance of its appearance in the Magazine. I may add that
I have not seen the account of Mr. Browne, and have no means of
knowing how far his views coincide with my own. But it can not
fail to be of interest to the readers of my work to compare with my
own the views and impressions of a man who looks at the country
from a stand-point so wholly different.-S. M., San Francisco, August,
1864.
232 
J. Ross Browne on Arizona Mines.
bles; and a people who furnished us with wood free of
charge, and offered us from their scanty stores of provisions whatever we needed. A mill, with smelting furnaces and a small engine, had just been erected for reducing the ores, and would be put in operation as soon
as the necessary facilities for working the mine could be
obtained.
The San Antonio Mine is situated about six miles
from the reduction works, in a spur of the Santa Cruz
Mountains. The ore is rich in argentiferous galena and
lead, easily managed, and will doubtless yield profitable
results. It is questionable if the silver lodes in this vicinity will produce so large a proportion of rich ores to
the ton as those of the Santa Rita and Cerro Colorado
Mountains; but it has been well demonstrated that they
are deep, boldly defined, and reliable, and will, if properly worked, amply recompense the labor and capital invested in them. The magnificent grazing lands of the
valleys into which the spurs of the mountains run; the
abundant supply of fine oak timber on the foot-hills; the
facilities for procuring provisions from Sonora, and easy
access, by good roads, to the ports of the Gulf, afford
them peculiar advantages, which would be greatly enhanced if we possessed the small strip of territory extending as far south as Libertad. No traveler passing
through this region can fail to be struck with the sagacity of the Mexican commissioners in running the boundary-line.
THE  MOWRY  SILVER MINES. - Approaching these
mines we found indications of life and industry. Cords
of wood lay piled up on the wayside; the sound of the
axe reverberated from hill to hill; the smoke of many
charcoal pits filled the air; and teamsters, with heavilyloaded wagons, were working their way over the rugged
trails and by-paths. Gradually the road became better
233 
Arizona and Sonora.
defined, and the clearings more extensive, till we came
to the brow of a hill overlooking the hacienda.
A more picturesque or cheering view I had rarely seen.
Down in the valley of several hundred acres, almost
embosomed in trees, stand the reduction works, store houses, and peon quarters. Smoke rose in curling clouds
from the main chimney, which stands like an obelisk in
the centre of the mill, and sulphurous vapors whirled up
fromn the long row of smelting furnaces in the rear.  The
busy hum of the steam-engine and fly-wheels fell with a
lively effect on the ear; the broad, smooth plaza in front
of the works was dotted with wagons and teams discharging their freight of wood and ore; and under the
shade of the surrounding trees, amid the picturesque little huts of the peons, groups of women and children,
clothed in the loose variegated costume of the country,
gave a pleasing domestic interest to the scene. It was
the last of the month, and consequently pay-day-a very
welcome and important day all over the world, but especially in this isolated region, where pay-days are scarce.
Such an event within fifteen miles of Santa Cruz rises to
the dignity of a grand public institution. The citizens
of Santa Cruz, who are not proverbial for energy, seem
to be inspired with new life on occasions of this kind,
and never fail to visit the mines in large numbers for the
purpose of participating in the general rejoicing. For
two or three days the whole hacienda presents a lively
and characteristic scene. Work is out of the question,
so far as the peons are concerned.  Under the shade of
every tree sits a group of thriftless vagabonds, conspicuous for their dirty skins and many-colored serapas, shuffling the inevitable pack of cards or casting their fortune
of greasy "hobes" upon the capricious hazards of monte.
The earnings of the month are soon disposed of.  The
women and children are left dependent upon new ad
234 
Jf. Ross Browne on Arizona Mines.
vances from the store-houses; the workmen are stupefied
with mescal and many nights of debauch; and when all
is over, the fandango at an end, and the monte tables
packed up, every miner bankrupt, and no more goods or
money to be had, the posse of sharpers from the border
lines of Sonora take their leave.
UTnder the existing system of labor in Southern Arizona, the silver mines call never be developed to their full
capacity, or profitably worked. The Santa Rita, Cerro
Colorado, and Cabuabia Mines have been tried in this
way, and the result has been invariably unfortunate.
Many valuable lives have been sacrificed, and vast
amounts of property lost by the treachery, dishonesty,
and incapacity of this class of workmen.  It may be justly contended that this is the cheapest, and, in fact, the
only labor hitherto to be obtained. Indeed, $15 a month,
payable mostly in goods at high prices, can not be considered an extravagant rate of wages for men who have
had more or less experience in the working of mines.
But that must be determined by the result. There will
be no difficulty in procuring reliable white labor as soon
as there is any security for life and property. The climate of Arizona is far more genial than that of Nevada,
where white labor is abundant. Men can be found to
work wherever they receive an adequate compensation
for their services. I do not believe it would be plracticable wholly or at once to dispense with Mexican labor.
It can always, to some extent, be made available for the
lower grades of mining operations.  Under the prepon derance of a higher and more intelligent class of labor, it
may become both convenient and profitable.
The Mowry Mine (formerly known as the Patagonia
Mine) was prqbably known to the Mexicans, and worked
by them many years ago.  The Americans first discov ered it in 1858.  In 1860 it became the property of Syl
235 
Arizona and Sonora.
vester Mowry, Esq. It is situated within ten miles of
the boundaryline between Sonora and Arizona, is 6160
feet above the level of the sea, and is distant 280 miles
from Guyamas, on the Gulf of California.
It is not my purpose, in these casual sketches, to write
a report on the condition and prospects of each silver
or gold mine in the Territory of Arizona, even if I pos sessed the requisite knowledge of mining operations.  I
can only say, therefore, in reference to the Mowry Mine,
that the lode appears to be large, bold, and well defined,
and the ore of fair average richness. It is composed of
argentiferous galena, impregnated with arsenic, and is
easily reduced by smelting. Three distinct veins are
perceptible, which cross each other in the principal lode.
The ore which was in process of reduction at the time
of my visit yielded, as I was informed, about $40 to the
ton. It was not the richest, nor could it be considered
a fair average. Mr. Kuistel, the distinguished metallurgist, author of the "Processes of Silver and Gold Extraction," etc., visited the mine about a month prior to my
arrival, and made a thorough examination of its ores and
resources. From a report* made by him, it would appear that some of the ores average $350 to the ton. If
the mines were properly worked, he estimates that a general average of $50 to $70 to the ton might be obtained,
and he mentions among the advantages in fluxing the
presence of iron ore, manganese, and lime. The result
of one day's working he found to be as follows: Produce of twenty tons in silver, $1200; in lead, $480; total,
$1680: expenses of reduction, mining, etc., $400; profit,
$1280. This result is highly encouraging; but the probability is, a more perfect and extensive system of operations would greatly enhance the nett prpceeds of the
mine.
* See ante, p. 69.
236' 
JL Ross Browne on Arizona Mines.
At the time of our visit this property was in the hands
of the deputy marshal of New Mexico, who held it on
behalf of the United States. Mr. Mowry, it appears, had
been arrested and imprisoned by order of General J. H.
Carleton, and the mine seized under the Confiscation Act.
Of the merits of the difficulty I have no knowledge. It
appears, however, that Mr. Mowry was discharged by the
court which tried his case. His property, I believe, has
since been restored to him by order of the government.
This gentleman's career in Arizona has been singularly adventurous and varied. In 1855 he was an officer of
the Federal army at Fort Yuma.  An expedition which
he made into the wilds of Arizona inspired him with a
high opinion of its great mineral resources and a most
enthusiastic estimate of its future destiny. He resigned
his position in the army, and spent several years in exploring the country, and attempting to procure a recognition of its claims by government. At one period he
was elected a delegate to Congress, and visited Washington for the purpose of procuring a territorial organization, but his object was defeated by sectional dissensions in that body. Mr. Mowry is well known throughout the United States. His name is inseparably connected with that of Arizona.  It is a part of himself.  He
once declared, in a moment of passion, when his term of
residence was questioned, that "he was born there!"
Certainly no man has done more for the new territory
than he, and no man loves it better. The climate of the
Patagonia is unsurpassed-I might almost say unequaled.
How such a paradise ever came to be christened after
the chilly, fog-smitten land where "giants grow  and
storms do blow," I am unable to conjecture. No wonder Mr. Mowry prefers his own name, which, if not so
euphonious, is at least less suggestive of howling winds
and fishy natives.
237 
Arizona and Sonora.
After passing through the canion of the San Lazaro,
we entered a valley which opens out into a magnificent
grazing range, extending nearly twenty miles to the foothills of the Pinitos 3fountains. Groves of cottonwood
of gigantic size fringe the stream at intervals of every
few miles. - The grass is wonderfully luxuriant, covering
the valley and hill-sides, as far as the eye can reach, with
a rich gold-colored carpeting. The slopes of the hills
and mountains are beautifully adorned with groves of
oak, ash, hackberry, and various kinds of shrubbery,
through the foliage of which the bright yellow grass glistens like a patch-work of gold; and far in the distance
this glowing continuation of colors is outlined by the
purple peaks of innumerable sierras, shivered by some
tremendous convulsion of the earth into the wildest and
most fantastic forms. Such sunrises and sunsets-such
marvelous richness of coloring-such magic lights and
shades I have never seen equaled in Europe-not even in
Italy or the islands of the Grecian Archipelago.
SANTA RITA MINES.-A small party of us resolved to
visit the mines of the Santa Rita District. For this expedition we provided ourselves with a pack-mnule for our
provisions, and carried our own blankets on horseback.
Crossing the Santa Cruz at the foot of the milpas, opposite the town of Tubac, we followed an arroyo for about
four miles, when we ascended the right bank and entered a dry, elevated plain, called in this country a mesa, or
table, stretching almost as far as we could see north and
south, and bounded on the east by the mountains of Santa Rita, and on the west by the Santa Cruz valley and
the mountains of Atacosa. It was a matter of surprise
to most of us how luxuriant the grass was on this.nesa,
and what an inexhaustible support it affords for innumerable herds of cattle. No water, however, is to be
found nearer than the Santa Cruz River and the canions
of the Santa Rita Moutntains.
238 
J. Ross Browne on Arizona X[in,es.
We found the beautiful hacienda of the Santa Rita
Company now solitary and desolate. The houses have
gone to ruin, and only a few adobe walls, furnaces, and
the frame-work of the mill remain to mark the spot formerly so full of life and enterprise. It was sad to stand
among these ruins and think how hard a fate had been
the reward of nearly all the enterprising men who had
built up this little community.  A few years ago these
houses, now empty and crumbling down in dusty fragments, were replete with busy life; the reduction works
were in full blast, and every heart thrilled with the
brightest anticipations of the future.
Mir. Poston, who had done more, perhaps, than any
other man to develop the resources of this vast mineral
region, had some depressing reflections as he gazed upon
this scene of ruin.*  Hie had suffered too miuch, however,
in Arizona, and seen too many reverses of fortune to
waste much time in retrospection. The future was still
bright and promising. It would not be long before
these tenements would be again inhabited, and the
sounds of life and industry again enliven the place.
With the necessary protection now promised, the company is prepared to re-establish the works.  An experienced manager, AIr. Wrightman, who has had long experience in this region, is now on the way out, and probably not more than a few months will elapse before the
mines and hacienda will be occupied by a large working
force.
At the istance of a few hundred yards from the ha cienda is a silver lead, situated strangely enough in the
valley, close by the bed of the creek, upon which some
explorations have been made. An assay of the ore,
made in 1861, yielded $400 to the ton. Water is fur
* I am glad to learn that my friend Poston has recently been elected delegate to Congress from Arizona.-J. R. B.
239 
Arizona and Sonora.
nished by the mine itself, which is not considered a disadvantage in this country, where that element is the
great desideratum.
THE SALERO MINE.-A mile beyond we reached the
foot of the Salero Mountain, near which, in a pleasant
little valley, stand the ruins of the peon houses, once occupied by the operators on the Salero Mine. The surrounding hills are clothed with a rich growth of grass,
and there is an abundance of oak timber scattered over
these hills and the adjacent mountains to supply the requisite fuel for the reduction works for many years. Water is found in an adjacent canion a few hundred yards
fitom the quarters, but not in sufficient quantities for
stock. There would be no difficulty, however, in increasing the quantity by digging.
The Salero, which is the principal mine in this region,
is situated in the side of a conical mountain of the same
name, rising immediately from this little valley, and presenting some very striking mineral phenomena. The
shaft is seen about a third of the way up its face, and is
approached by a wagon-road, which cuts and leaves exposed a number of veins running into the mountain in
nearly the same direction, and all bearing more or less
indications of silver.
During the afternoon and on the following day we visited at least fifteen or twenty distinct mines, all partially opened and well tested, forming what might be termed
a perfect network of silver - bearing ledges. Among
these were the Salero, Bustillo, Crystal,'Eicarnacion,
Cazador, and Fuller, each one of which has yielded, under a very imperfect system of working, at the rate of
from four to fourteen hundred dollars to the ton. This,
of course, was from selected ores. The average would
probably not fall short of two hundred dollars, though
sufficient work has not yet been done upon which to
240 
J. Ross Browne on Arizona Mines.
base a reliable calculation. The assays and experiments
of such men as Kuiistel, Pompelly, Booth, Garnett, Main-,
zer, Blake, Dr. Jackson, of Boston, and others, demonstrate, at least, that there is a great abundance of rich
ores in the Santa Rita District.
As a grazing country for cattle and sheep, the valleys
and foot-hills of the Santa Rita can not be surpassed.
Grass of every variety known in Arizona covers the
ground all the year, and there is practically no winter
for live - stock. The climate is so mild, even in the
months of January and February, that it is a positive
luxury to sleep in the open air. Wood can be obtained
in limited quantities in the neighborhood; and when that
is exhausted, the valley of the Santa Cruz, only twelve
miles distant, furnishes an inexhaustible supply. The
mines abound in ores easy of reduction by smelting, and
they are so situated that access to all of them by good
roads can be had at a small expense. The transit to
Tucson and Guayrnas is over the best natural roads in
the world, but will require military protection for some
time to come.
THE SOPORI RANCH, although at present uninhabited,
possesses advantages as a mining and grazing region
which have long since given it a reputation in Sonora.
Embracing over twenty square leagues of mountain and
valley, it comprises within its boundaries some of the
best silver and copper leads and cattle - ranges in the
country. During the greater part of the year it is well
watered; but there are times when water is scarce, except in the vicinity of the head-quarters, where the supply is never-failing. By means of acequias, a considerable extent of bottom-land, of a very productive quality,
h    a    s alread y  b een cultivated. The usual cereal crops
thrive  well       here, and     esculents are especially fine. Wood
o      f       many valuable varieties, such as oak, ash, walnut, cot                            L
241 
Arizona and iSotn ora.
tonwood, willow, and mesquit, grows in the ravines and
along the margin of the creek. Lying twelve miles south
of Tubac, bordering on the mission lands of San Xavier
del Bac to the north, and distant but forty-five miles
from Tucson, on the highway to the Cerro Colorado,
Arivaca, and Sonora, it possesses great advantages of
location, and a climate unrivaled for its salubrity.
I spent the afternoon rambling over the hills, making
sketches of the scenery, which, at this season of the year,
is Italian in its atmospheric coloring. Indeed, that land
which possesses the "fatal gift of beauty" is fairly outrivaled by the Sopori.
The principal mine, which I also visited, is about two
miles from the head-quarters. As yet the lode has been
but little explored. A shaft has been sunk, from which
some very rich ore has been taken, portions of it in small
particles of pure silver.
I do not believe, however, from my own casual observation, that the mother vein has yet been struck. The
average of ores taken out, and upon which experiments
have been made, demonstrates a yield of $150 to the ton,
and this by the rudest process of smelting. Selected
specimens have yielded $700 to the ton. Still, the vein
does not appear to me sufficiently defined at the point
now reached to warrant the belief that large results can
be expected without farther exploration. Mr. Bartlett,
I believe, has taken a great interest in the development
of this region, and has organized a company at Providence, Rhode Island, for the working of the mines on an
extensive scale.
The whole country bears strong indications of rich
mineral-.deposits. The Mexicans, for many years past,
have worked some gold placers in the ravines of the
neighboring mountains; and we saw the remains of arastras where they had formerly ground and smelted silver
242 
J. -Ross Browne on Arizona Misses.
ores. All this district of country needs development.
With capital, energy, and patience, it must eventually become one of the most valuable mining districts in the
Territory. 
THE HEINTZELMAN MINE.-An early start enabled us
to reach, by noon, the Heintzelman Mine, or, as it is more
commonly called, thie " Cerro Colorado." This celebrated mine belongs to a company of New York capitalists,
known as the "Arizona Mining Company." The distance by the road from Tubac is as follows: To Revanton, 8 miles; Sopori, 5; Cerro Colorado, 11: total, 24
miles. A much shorter road could be made across the
foot-hills of the Atacosa range of mountains, but the work
would be attended by considerable expense. From Sopori, the road now used is the public highway to Altar,
Saric, and other points in Sonora, and will probably form
a branch of the projected route to Port Libertad, on the
Gulf 6f California. It runs through a broad open valley,
abounding in groves of walnut, oak, ash, and mesquit,
fringing the bed of a creek which is usually dry at this
season. Numerous arroyas, extending down from the
gulches of the neighboring mountains, in which the sands
are drifted by the floods of former years, show that the
country is not always so destitute of water as it is at
present. The valley extends nearly all the way up from
the Sopori to the foot-hills of the Cerro Colorado. It is
covered with a luxuriant growth of grass, and is one of
the finest grazing regions for cattle and sheep I have
seen in the Territory. Sufficient water for stock can be
had any where along the bed of the creek by digging a
few feet. On the north side there is a rise of several
hundred feet to the level of a mesa, which extends as far
as the eye can reach toward San Xavier del Bac. This
plateau is dry and rocky, but produces fine gramma grass,
and furnishes an inexhaustible range for sheep. To the
243 
i4Arizona cand $onzo2c.
southward lie the rolling hills that join the Atacosa
Mountains.  These are also covered with grass, and dotted with palo-verde, mesquit, and cactus. Deer is abundant in this region, having been but little disturbed during the past few years. We killed two as we traveled
along the road, and saw many more. Wild turkeys, rabbits, quails, and other game also abound in great numbers, so that we had no difficulty in keeping the camp
well supplied.
I was surprised, on our arrival at the mine, to see
the amount of work which had been done at this place.
The head-quarters lie on a rise of ground about a mile
distant from the foot of the Cerro Colorado, and present,
at the first view, the appearance of a Mexican village
built around the nucleus of a fort.
Scarcely three years ago the hacienda of the Cerro
Colorado presented probably the most striking scene of
life and energy in the territory.  About a hundred and
twenty peons were ill the employ of the company; the
works were in active operation; vast piles of ore were
cast up daily from the bowels of the earth; wagons were
receiving and discharging freights; the puff and whistle
of the steam-engine resounded over the hills; herds of
cattle, horses, mules, and other stock ranged over the
valleys. At the time of our visit it was silent and desolate-a picture of utter abandonment. The adobe houses
were fast falling into ruin; the engines were no longer
at work; the rich piles of ore lying in front of the shafts
had been sacked and robbed by marauding Mexicans;
nothing was to be seen but wreck and ruin, and the few
solitary graves on a neighboring hill, which tell the story
of violence and sacrifice by which the pathway to civilization has been marked in Arizona.
We took up our quarters within the walled fortifications which mark the entrance to the mine.  The works
244 
J. -Ross Browne on Arizona Xines.
are well protected by a tower in one corner of the
square, commanding the plaza and various buildings andstore-houses, as also the shafts of the mine, which open
along the ledge for a distance of several hundred yards.
We found the steam-engine still standing within the inclosure, but rusty and partially imbedded in the ground.
Remains of arastras and "whins," with various massive
beams scattered about, showed to some extent the large
amount of labor expended upon these works.
The entrance to the mine is close by the tower. The
shaft has been sunk to a depth of a hundred and forty
feet, and has been for some time partially filled with water. Poston and myself descended by the ladders as far
as we could. About sixty feet of water stopped us firom
going any farther. I was surprised at the completeness
and durability of the work-the more so, knowing with
what difficulty every part of it had been accomplished.
Of the quality of the ores in this mine I am not prepared to express any opinion of my own. The best
practical evidence I saw of their value was that the
Mexicans had been plundering the different shafts which
were accessible just prior to our arrival; and, judging
fiom their rude system of reduction, I scarcely think
they would waste time in stealing ore of little value and
transporting it across the border line through an Apache
country. It is well known that the town of Saric, in
Sonora, has been built upon the proceeds of ore stolen
from the Heintzelman Mine. I saw scattered about the
premises piles of ore which had just been broken up,
ready for packing away; and the fresh tracks of muletrains and wagon-wheels, on the well-beaten road to Saric, showed how profitable this sort of enterprise must
be to the Sonoranians.
THE ARIVAcA MINEiS.-Seven miles from the Cerro
Colorado we reached the Arivaca ranch, long celebrated
245 
Arizona ancd Sonora.
for its rich mines and fine pastures. This ranch, called
by the Mexicans La Aribac, comprises within its boundaries 17,000 acres of agricultural land, 25 silvermines, fornerly workedzby the Mexicans, and numerous gold, copper, and lead. mines, as yet undeveloped. It contains a
large amount of rich meadow-land, bordering on a neverfailing stream; is well wooded with oak, walnut, ash, cottonwood, and mesquit, and is capable of sustaining a population of five or six thousand souls.  The range for cattle and sheep is almost without limit, extending over a
belt of grazing country as far south as the Arizuma
Mountains, west to the great peak of the Baboquivori,
and north and east into the heart of the neighboring
mountains. This goes far beyond the boundaries of the
ranch; but in Arizona, as in California, the possession of
water is tantamount to the possession of the whole surrounding country. The title is held by the Arizona
Mining Company, and is derived from Thomas and Ignacio Ortez, who perfected it as early as 1802.  It was surveyed by Lieutenant A. B. Gray, of the Boundary Commission, in 1859.  Up to the abandonment of the Territory in 1861, it was in a progressive state of improvement under the auspices of the company's agent. The
reduction works of the Heintzelman Mine were situated
on this ranch for the convenience of wood, water, and
pasturage, and were projected on a costly and extensive
scale. Little now remains of them save the ruins of the
mill and furnaces, the adobe store-houses and offices, and
a dilapidated corral.
We camped in the old mill, and spent a couple of days
very pleasantly in visiting the mines and exploring the
gulches of the neighboring mountains. Game was abundant. Some of our escort who were good shots brought
in several fat deei, and we lived in sumptuous style during our stay.
246 
J. Ross BBrowne on Arizona Mines.
A couple of miles below the head-quarters is situated
another mining establishment belonging to the same
company, and designed for the use of certain mines in
the same vicinity, one of which we visited, and found to
present very favorable indications of lead and silver ore.
Several buildings, in a fair state of preservation, comprise what is left of the hacienda; also a double corral
for horses and cattle.
THE CAHUABIA DISTRICT.-Crossing the desert of the
Papagoria, we made an exploration of the Cahuabia District. The principal mines in this district are owned by
the Cahuabia Mining Company. From the Report of
MIr. Mainzer, a very able practical engineer, it would appear that the silver lodes are among the richest in Arizona; but I can readily believe this to be the case from
my own observation.  I have seen nothing in Washoe
or elsewhere that presents more favorable indications.
Mr. Jaeger, our Fort Yuma friend "Don  Diego," of
whose history I gave a brief sketch in my first paper,
owns the "Pecacho," a very rich lead, upon which coinsiderable work has been done. A few Mexicans were
engaged in getting out the ores at the time of our arrival. This mine was leased to a Mexican during the
past two years, who, by the rudest system of working,
managed to get about forty thousand dollars out of it,
over and above expenses.
WVe visited the Bahia, a silver lode of extraordinary
richness belonging to the Cahuabia Mining Company.
From some Mexicans who were helping themselves to
the ore, we learned that it yielded an average of $300 to
$350 to the ton, and occasionally they struck it in nearly
a pure state. There are also very fine copper mines in
the vicinity. Mr. Hill d'Amit, who was a member of
our party on the trip to Sonora, is largely interested in
one of these, and considers it one of the best copper leads
247 
Arizona and Sonora.
in the country-quite equal to the celebrated Maricopa
lead on the Gila. Difficulty of transportation is the
great drawback to copper mining in this part of Arizona. I am satisfied, from my own observation, and from
the concurrent testimony of others, that the Cahuabia is
a mineral region of more than ordinary richness. It
abounds in almost all the precious metals, but is as yet
scarcely known beyond Tucson. No finier field for cxploration and enterprise exists south of the Gila.
lfy impressions of Arizona may be summed up in a
few words. I believe it to be a territory wonderfully
rich in minerals, but subject to greater drawbacks than
any other of our territorial possessions. It will be many
years before its mineral resources can be fairly developed. Emigration must be encouraged by increased military protection; capital must be expended without the
hope of immediate and extraordinary returns; civil law
must be established on a firm basis, and facilities of
communication be fostered by legislation of Congress.
248 
Ward on the Silver Mines of Xorthern Mexico. 249
POSTSCRIPT.*
WARD ON THE SILVER MINES OF NORTHERN MEXICO.
Projects for Mining.-The Mines of Arizpe.-Richness of Ores. The Balls of Silver.-Old Spanish Decree.-Criaderos de Plata.  Speculations and Prospects.
SOME Americans have endeavored to establish a company for Batopilas, but have not, I believe, as yet succeeded in raising a sufficient capital. A Mexican company for working some of the mines of Sonora was likewise proposed in the capital very lately, but failed, I believe, in consequence of a want of confidence in the persons who wished to promote its formation.
A similar enterprise will shortly be attempted in England by an English gentleman (Colonel Bourne) who
has been long a resident in Mexico, in conjunction with
MIr. Escalante, the representative of the State of Sonora
in the Senate.  They have taken up contracts for the
mines of Arizpe (about 36~ north latitude), in a situation
possessing great local advantages-a fertile country, the
vicinity of two large rivers, and a communication by water with the Pacific. The mines themselves were formerly celebrated for their riches, and the capital required to bring them again into activity is very small.
The specimens which I have seen of the ores extracted firom them almost induce one to adopt the theory
that the proportion of silver contained in the ores in  * While on my way from San Francisco to visit my mines in Arizona, my attention was drawn to the following passages in'WARD'S
Mexico," published some years ago, which throw some light upon the
early history of mining in Sonora and Arizona.-S. M., Guaymas
Mexico, August 7, 1864. 
Arizona and Sonora.
creases as you advance toward the north-a theory very
generally believed at present in Mexico, and certainly
confirmed by the superiority of the northern ores to
those of the richest districts in the south. The idea
probably originated in the discovery of the famous bolas
ce plata (balls of silver) of Arizona, in the beginning
of the last century, which was, and probably still is, believed in Europe to be one of those fables with which
mining countries always abound.
But the attention of the present government of M-exico having been drawn to the subject, a search was made
in the vice-regal archives, by order of the President, for
the correspondence which was known to have taken
place respecting it in. the year 1736.
This correspondence I have seen; and I have ill my
possession a certified copy of a decree of Philip the
Fifth, dated Aranjuez, May 28th, 1741, the object of
which was to terminate a prosecution instituted by the
royal fiscal against the discoverers of Arizona for having defrauded the treasury of the duties payable upon
the masses of pure silver found there.
The decree states the weight of the balls, sheets, and
other pieces of silver discovered (bolas, planchas, y otras
piezas de plata) to have amounted to 165 arrobas, 8 lbs.
-in all, 4033 lbs.; and mentions particularly one mass of
pure silver weighing 108 arrobas (2700 lbs.), and another of eleven arrobas, upon which duties had been actually paid by a Don Domingo Asmendi, and which, as
a great natural curiosity (como cosa especial), the king
states ought to have been sent to Madrid.
The decree ends by declaring the District of Arizona
to be royal property, as a "criadero de plata" (a place
where, by some natural process, silver was created)-an
idea to which the flexibility of the metal, when first extracted, seemed, in those times, to give some color of
250 
rWard on the Silver Xi7nees of Northerit Mexico. 251
probability-and by directing it to be worked upon the
royal account. This put a stop to the enterprises of in-'
dividuals; the district was deserted; an attempt to send
a colony there failed; and, in a few years, the very name
of Arizona was forgotten.
I am far from supposing that the whole of the facts
recorded in this decree can be taken as correct, although
the authenticity of the decree is unquestionable. But
what one can not adopt without confirmation ought not
to be rejected without inquiry; and I see enough, at
least, in these records of Arizona to warrant the supposition (confirmed as it is by the facts and appearances
mentioned in the preceding pages) that the hitherto unexplored regions in the north of Mexico contain mineral treasures which, as discoveries proceed, are likely to
make the future produce of the country infinitely exceed
the amount that has been hitherto drawn fronm the comparatively poorer districts of the south.
In how far these discoveries must be influenced by the
progress of population, and in what degree the discover ies themselves may be expected to influence that prog ress, remains as a subject of inquiry for the fourth and
last section of this book, in which I shall endeavor to
point out the connection between the mines and the ag riculture and commerce of Mexico, as the best mode of
illustrating the effect likely to be produced by their pros perity upon a country the general interests of which they
so effectually promote. - Vol. i., pages 458-461.
THE END,
I ,I