REPORT
TO
IION. A. V. BROWN, POSTMAIASTER GENERAL,
ON THE
OPENING AND PRESENT CONDITION
OF THE
UNITED STATES OVERLAND MAIL ROUTE BETWEEN SAN ANTONIO, TEXAS,
AND SAN DIEGO, CALIFORNIA,
BY
J. C. WOOD, SUPERINTENDENT.
WASHINGTON CITY, D. C., March -, 1858.
SiR: In compliance with your request, I beg leave to submit the
following report, showing the present condition of the mail stage line
running semi-monthly between San Antonio, Texas, and San Diego,
California, containing also extracts from the journal of my trip over
the line and back.
I have here grouped together observations, made from time to time,
along the road, of the soil, climate, distances, deserts, mountains,
supplies of wood, water, and grass, arable land, pasturage, and general character of the road we stage over. I have endeavored to avoid
inserting anything except what I learned from the experiences of my
trip; but the statements of the distances and altitudes are from government surveys, as I had neither time to measure the road nor to
ascertain its altitudes.
Extracts from my journal.
June 12, 1857.-The late James E. Birch entered into a contract
with your department for the transmission of a semi-monthly mail to
and from San Antonio, Texas, and San Diego, California. I had
been laboring in connexion with Mir. Birch during the period in which
the great overland mail letting was pending, and, in compliance with
the understanding between us, I took charge of the execution of this
contract.
June 15.-To-day I despatched a man from New York, with instructionrs to proceed at once to San Antonio, Texas, and there to purchase
a suitable outfit with which to take the first mail, namely, that of
July 9th, through to San Diego.  That he might be able to transport
Va,
. 8s 
2
the mail through in proper shape, and in schedule time if possible,
I wrote a full authority for him to act in ally emergency which might
arise on the road, and also gave him the cash necessary to carry out
these instructions. Never having travelled the road, I was of course
unable to give specific directions to the first conductor, but depended,
in a great degree, on his discretion.
June 20.-By the mail steamer to California to-day I forwarded
full instructions to Mr. R. E. Doyle, of San Francisco, accompanied by
an authority from Mr. Birch to him, in virtue of which he was to take
the management of that portion of the mail line running west of
Tucson. I instructed Mr. Doyle to start the first mail, if possible, on
the-24th of July, from San Diego.
[I subsequently learned, and insert the facts here to make my report
more connected, that these instructions reached Mr. Doyle on the 13th
of July; the steamer for San Diego would sail on the 18th, thus
leaving him only five days for making his preparations. Mr. Doyle
agreed to take an interest, and to advance the money needed to commence service on the Pacific end of the line. The purchase and shipment of the necessary saddles, bridles, blankets, rations, arms, &c.,
as well as the selection of the first conductors and guard, was a work
requiring more than five days. The first outfit, all but the animals,
was shipped to San Diego on the 18th; the L'steamer arrived there on
her usual time, namely, July 21st, leaving three days only in which
to purchase the required animals. The difficulty in finding suitable
mules proved greater than was anticipated, and the outfit, though
nearly complete, could not be made ready to leave at 6 a. m. of the
-24th, according to contract. The first mail for San Antonio left San
Diego on the 9th of August; relays of animals having previously
been sent forward to Fort Yinma.]
,June 23.-From the 12th, the date of the signing of the contract,
up to this date, I had been engaged in the necessary preliminary preparations for my journey to San Diego; also in making such pur,chases as I deemed indispensably necessary to be made in New York.
:My purchases in New York were limited, in comparison with the re,quirements of the line.  I hardly knew myself what I wanted; there-fore' determined to make the bulk of my purchases in San Antonio,
where I hoped to get some reliable information as to my new duties.
Today Mr. Birch gave me my authority to act for him, which
authority was made out in the form of a comnmon letter, addressed
'by, him to me, instead of a power of attorney.  His purpose was to
convey to me the most unlimited powers.  I enclose a copy of this
document.
NEw YORK, J'zne 23, 1857.
'DEAR SIR: I have taken a contract with the Postmaster General- to
carry tte United States mail between San Diego and San Antonio
twice a month for four years, a copy of which contract you have been
furnished with. I wish you to take charge, for me, of the fulfilment
-of this contract, and of any additions that may be made to it, as my
general agent for the purpose.   After  making  all preliminary
arrangements which you deem proper, I desire you to proceed to the 
3
line of the route, put it into operation, and perform the service. You
are authorized by me to make all the contracts, and do all things you
may deem necessary or proper for the purpose, having the same
authority in the premises that I would myself if present. To carry
out the above, I hand you certificates of deposit
Ten of $1,000 each............................... $10,000
Forty of $200 each................................ 8,000
Cash.................................................. 800
Advanced James Mason........................ 1,200
20,000 00
;
To be distributed on my account.
JAMES E. BIRCH.
Mr. I. C. WOODS.
June 24.-I left this morning for San Antonio, via Chicago, Cairo,
and New Orleans. The only assistant I took with me was a young
gentleman of liberal education, who was acquainted with English,
French, and Spanish, as well as the German, his native language. I
have since found that it is an indispensible requisite to the economical
management of our line that all mail conductors and agents should
speak the Spanish language; we make a point of this now in selecting men for our service.
July 5.-Having been detained on the way by business and railroad
accidents, I only reached New Orleans the night before last, missing
the mail connexion to Indianola.  To-dav I received a telegraphic communication from Mr. Birch, informing me that he would leave New
York that day per steamer for California. It had been agreed between
us that we were to meet in San Diego as soon as I could reach there.
[In the course of my journal I shall refer again to this appointment,
though I deem it proper to mention here that I never saw Mr. Birch
after we parted on the 23d June. He was lost in the Central America
September 11th, three days after I reached the Pacific.]
July 7. We were due in Indianola this morning at daylight, but
unfortunately grounded in a fog on a sand bar at the entrance of the
bay, which lost us the connexion with the coach for San Antonio.
This delay prevented my attending in person to despatching the mail
of the 9th from San Antonio, as I had much desired to do.
July 11.-Reached San Antonio to-day at 4 p. m.
July 13, Monday. As my letter of authority will show, Mr. Birch
gave me eighteen thousand eight hundred dollars in hand. After
deducting the cost of some purchases of arms and clothing made in
New York, I have, on reaching San Antonio, about seventeen thousand seven hundred dollars. With this money I commenced operations at once. To-day I hired a corral and office, also commenced
making arrangements for men, in all of which I was very kindly
assisted by Mr. G. H. Giddings.
July 16.-Busily engaged in purchasing mules and the necessary
articles to fit out the mail trains. To-day I hired Captain Henry
00
00
00
00 
Skillman as a conductor to take the mail of the 24th through to the
Pimos villages, with which country he is very familiar. After this
first trip through he is to run regularly on the Arizona section. Captain Skillman is, I believe, well known to your department as the
first contractor for the mail between San Antonio and Santa Fe.
July 19.-To-day I despatch an extra train with stores for the
road, and under instructions to go as far as Fort Lancaster, three
hundred miles from here, and then to return. By this train I sent
relays to be used by the up mail of the 24th, which is to be under
charge of Captain Skillman. Nine mules were to be left at Fort
Clarke, and eighteen at Fort Lancaster.
[This train was attacked and captured of Devil's river by the Indians. I have referred to it more particularly in the course of my
journal.]
July 22.-M3r. Giddings' mail in from E1 Paso; they met our mail
of July 9 getting along safely, though slowly.
July 24.-Punctual to the hour named in the contract, 6 a. m., I
this morning despatched the mail coach from the Plaza with the
through mail to San Diego. The postmaster made up mails also for
all the intermediate military posts on our route, although supplying
them was not at first contemplated in the contract. Desiring to
manifest, from the first, a spirit of accommodation to all parties, we
were happy to take charge of anything the postmaster chose to send.
This mail was the second through mail which had left San Antonio,
being at the same time the first that had been sent forward in a
coach. This outfit consisted of  One coach and harness.
Six men, well armed with rifles, and a Colt's pistol to each.
Four saddles and accoutrements.
Ropes, hopples, shoeing tools, shoes and nails.
Cooking utensils, and numerous minor articles.
Provisions for thirty days, calculated to last to the Pimos villages
and back to E1 Paso.
Thirty-six mules; of these, twenty-seven had been sent forward on
the road as relays.
Also six hundred dollars in cash to purchase supplies on the route.
[It was twenty-one of these mules which were captured on Devil's
river by the Indians; see journal of June 19 and August 2.]
[To insure this mail getting through in schedule time, if possible,
I gave Capt. Skillman authority to act for the line in any emergencies
which might arise. The reputation which he enjoyed in San Antonio
fully warranted me in entrusting this pioneer coach to him, and I
subsequently found him every way qualified for the service he had
undertaken, as some interesting incidents connected with his trip will
prove hereafter.]
[I will here add a brief sketch of the manner in which I had
planned to send the mail through to San Diego.  In my instructions
of June 20 to Mr. R. E. Doyle, I had requested him to make all his
arrangements to send the mails from San Diego as far east as the
Pimos villages. In my plan of operation, taking San Antonio as the
starting point, I would work westwardly, while with his plan of opera
4 
5
tion, with San Diego as the basis, he would work eastwardly, I proposed to make the connexions between the two systems at the Pimos
villages.  I calculated that Captain Skillman would reach these Pimos
villages about the 17th of August, (he reached there August 20;)
furthermore, that he could meet there the mail of August 9 fromn San
Diego, and then he would return to El Paso in time to make the
through connexion there with the mail train from San Antonio, which
train I undertook to have in waiting. Owing to circumstances entirely
beyond my control, and likely to arise only in a pioneer trip, the mail
from San Diego failed to make the connexion at the Pimos villages by
thirty-six hours. It was a part of the plan that Captain Skillman
should purchase a complete new outfit of mules at El Paso, which he
was unable to do.
At Cook's Wells he overtook the mail of July 9 from San Antonio,
waiting for an escort. The two trains proceeded together under charge
of Captain Skillman as far as the Pimos villages, at which point the
conductor of the mail of July 9 pushed on to San Diego with both
mails, reaching his destination at 11 a. m. August 30. I have found
no reason, as yet, to alter the system of mail connexion referred to in
this note, though the place where we now join the eastern and western
management is at Tucson, Arizona Territory. One hundred miles
west of the Pimos villages each carrier now delivers the mails, and retraces the road with the return mail.]
July 29.-Since my arrival in San Antonio, I had made every possible exertion to procure mules adapted to the purpose of staging. I
drove about the country myself, and sent agents to purchase wherever
we heard of any good mules for sale. As yet, the right kind come in
slowly.
[There was another view which I took of my position as superintendent of the line, and one which governed me throughout in all my
exertions. It was this:
An understanding existed between.r. Birch and myself, that your
department desired to have the new mail service commence at once,
and to have it pushed, if possible, to an early and vigorous success.
It had been from the first determined to spare neither money nor labor, if
either, or both combined, could by any possibility produce the desired result. I had determined to go myself over the road and back
again, in as short a period of time as was consistent with the proper
discharge of my duties as superintendent. I had planned to leave San
Antonio on the 1st of August for El Paso, with a train consisting of
coaches, mules, rations, arms, men and general equipment, to be placed
on that portion of our road situated in Arizona Territory, between
E1 Paso and the Pimos villages.
I had further planned to reach El Paso in season to purchase the
necessary mules with which to carry forward, in person, the mail for
San Diego of 9th August. This mail I estimated would overtake me
on the 21st or 22d at the last named place.]
July 29. —After examining the subject thoroughly for several days
past, I saw but one way in which to bring about the results I had in
view within the time required. This was to purchase or hire the
entire stock of mules and coaches used on the San Antonio and Santa 
6
Fe line, owned and run by G. H. Giddings, of San Antonio. Mr.
Giddings had treated me with every possible consideration, and
during the time I had been in San Antonio had rendered me as much
assistance as though he had had a personal interest in the success of
the enterprise. On the 26th I opened to him the matter of this purchase which I desired to make, and to-day made a conditional purchase of all the mules, coaches, and other property used on his mail
route. The bringing of this property under my superintendence, in
conjunction with the stock I had already purchased, would enable me
to perform our mail service of twice a month, and also Mr. Giddings'
contract of once a month, with less stock than if the two lines had
been run separately.
One of the most advantageous features of this arrangement with
Mr. Giddings was his agreement to go to El Paso with the mail
of August 9, there to remain as agent of this line during my necessary
absence in California.
July 31.-This morning I despatched the train of coaches, men,
and supplies, referred to July 29. I shall take this train with me,
and distribute it along the road wherever it is needed, principally to
the west of El Paso.
This train, the fourth that had gone from San Antonio, and the
third one I had sent off, consisted of three coaches and harness; seventeen men well armed with rifles, and a Colt's pistol to each; thirtyeight mules; about four thousand pounds weight of rations, and
equipments for the upper end of the line; ten saddles and accoutrements; also all the smaller articles usually sent forward in one of our
mail trains.
August 1.-Up to this date my personal luggage had not reached
me from the coast, partly owing to my haste in leaving San Antonio,
and partly to its not having been sent forward from Lavacca as speedily
as it might have been after I had left it. Up to this date I have only
seen my baggage once since leaving it at Lavacca the 9th of last July.
It met me at El Paso, where I was compelled to leave it for want of
room in my coach. To-day I left in the Santa Fe6 mail coach to overtake the train I sent out yesterday. We would travel together for
several hundred miles.
Before I left San Antonio I completed the outfit for the up mail of
August 9, in which mail Mr. Giddings was to come to El Paso, and
the arrival of which I was to await there before proceeding westward
on my journey.
The conductor of our train was compelled to remain all night in
Castroville.  This detention was in consequence of the herder having
got intoxicated, and permitted six of our mules to stray. It was not
prudent to go on and leave them behind in this condition, so we
remained, in the hope of finding them in the morning by daylight.
Castroville is a very pretty town picturesquely situated on the west
bank of the Medina river.
We found our road thus far to be an excellent one, though dusty at
this time. The country through which we passed was parched and
the grass dry, yielding but little nutriment to animals. It must be
taken into consideration that southwestern Texas has had a partial 
7
drought for three successive seasons; this last year was the worst of
all. Corn in San Antonio, and in the surrounding country, is now
brought from New Orleans and from Mexico. We pay two dollars
per bushel for all we consume. In seasons of good crops corn sells in
and about San Antonio at fifty cents per bushel. Made 25 miles
to-day.
[When I came back over this road in January the whole country
was full of water; the river was barely passable, the roads were
muddy and tedious all the way from Fort Clarke to San Antonio, and
the prospects of a crop were excellent.]
August 2.-Left Castroville at 4 a. m.; an hour afterwards we found
five of our six missing mules grazing quietly by the road side unguarded. I thought at the time that this losing of mules was very
strange, but I have since found it quite a feature in our business, and
one that it is impossible to prevent. Animals are left behind because
the mail cannot be detained waiting for broken down mules to recruit,
or to find strayed stock. About 8 a. m. I met Captain Wallace, whom
I had despatched from San Antonio on the 19th in charge of the train
with relays for Captain Skillman. (See journal of that day and July
24.) All that now returned of a fine outfit was the conductor and
one man on borrowed mules. A drizzling rain was falling, the two
discomfitted mail men were wrapped in sombre looking blankets.
One of them had his arm in a sling from a wound received in the
fight, and indeed their whole appearance was well calculated to give'
their narrative of the loss a gloomy coloring to any one not familiar
with Indian depredations.
The particulars of this disaster, as I gathered them from the two men,
were as follows: The train was getting along finely on its way to Fort
Lancaster, being at the time of the attack eighteen miles north of
Forti Hudson.  The Indians appeared suddenly on all sides of them
from the chapparal, and commenced firing at the mules in the coach,
the loose mules being a few hundred yards ahead   The frightened
animals ran into a mezguer, turned short round, and broke the pole.
As this accident prevented his keeping up with the mulada ahead, the
conductor, who was driving at the time, jumped from the box, called
to a young man by the name of Clifford to follow him, and went to
the assistance of the men driving the herd. Clifford was either surrounded by Indians, or wounded so that he was unable to get away
from the coach, and died fighting hand to hand with the Indians.
The conductor got the mulada turned off from the road for the purpose
of making a detour to escape his pursuers; but the chase was so hot,
and one saddle mule having to be double mounted, they were compelled to betake themselves to running and leave the mules and property to their fate.
We lost coach and harness, twenty-one mules, provision and equipment, one hundred dollars in money, and one box of personal property
valued at some hundreds of dollars, belonging to a sergeant's wife at
Fort Lancaster.
The Indians were supposed to be Camanches.
At Fort Hudson the conductor found a scouting party, of the second
cavalry, from Fort Clarke. They had been on the Rio Grande, ex 
8
amining well known Indian trails which lead into Mexico. Captain
Whiting, the officer in command of this scouting party, immediately
started on the trail of the Indians who had captured our train. A
party of infantry was kindly sent out by Lieutenant Fink, commanding at Fort Hudson, for the purpose of burying young Clifford and
of bringing in the broken coach, if worth preservation.
Captain Whiting overtook the Indians and recaptured nearly all
our mules, though many of them we found were ruined for stage purposes.
The accident was rather a disagreeable one to come upon us, in the
outset of our enterprise. It seemed to place a number of great obstacles in my way. I hardly knew how to prevent its being repeated,
or whether such attacks were to be of common occurrence. I knew not
where to look for mules to replace those stolen, as good stage animals
were not plenty in or about San Antonio. That which seemed another
risk presented itself in the fact that Captain Skillman was only a few
days behind Wallace's train; this naturally suggested the thought
that perhaps the Indians would remain concealed among the cations
of Devil's river until he came along, and cut him off. On the other
hand there seemed a chance that they would let a mail party like his
pass unmolested, preferring to try us because we had a large mulada,
and presented a temptation worth fighting for. However, I consoled
myself with this fact that I had left a good outfit in San Antonio for
the mail of August 9, and that furthermore I had then with me a
strong party of men, sufficient, in my opinion, to guard the relays and
property under my charge. I had time to consider as to my course
before passing Fort Clarke. Commending my discomfited conductor
to a surgeon at once, and promising to send such instructions from
Fort Clarke as were rendered necessary by his loss, we went on our
way.
Our route to-day has been over an excellent road passing through
a country adapted to grazing, or capable of being cultivated to advantage, in seasons when rain enough falls to insure a crop. We camped
at midnight five miles this side of "Uvalde."   Made a distance of 58
miles to-day.
August 3.-Left our camp at 5 a. m. During the morning we
passed a government train under charge of Captain John E. Pope,
topographical engineers. Captain Pope is en route for the Llano
Estacado, near the 32d parallel of latitude, to experiment as to the
practicability of procuring water there by means of artesian wells.
[When I returned over this portion of our road in January, I found
that Captain Pope was at his camp near the mouth of Delaware creek.
I consider it an excellent thing for this section of country that our
government should undertake to establish or disprove the opinions
expressed by many scientific men upon, the question of obtaining
water by means of artesian wells in the Llano Estacado of Texas,
and on the high table lands of Arizona and New Mexico.  I refer to
this matter again in treating of the present watering places on our
route, and in presenting my ideas of the proper method of securing
an adequate supply of water at intermediate points.] 
9
We cooked our breakfast this morning under the trees just outside
of the tower of Uvalde. We have tin plates, tin cups, knives and
forks, iron spoons, a gunny bag as a table cloth, and one seat in the
shape of a water keg among eight of us. Camped for the night at 8
p. m. Made 42 miles to-day.
August 4.-Left camp at 3 a. m.  Reached Fort Clarke at 5 a. m.
Left Fort Clarke at 1 p. m.
I wrote to Mr. Birch to-day, informing him of my progress up to
this point, calling his attention particularly to the attack on Captain
Wallace, which resulted in the loss of that complete outfit.  I further
advised him of having drawn on him at 90 days' date for the sum of
five thousand dollars, payable at the Bank of Manhattan Company,
New York, at which I knew he kept his account. I requested Mr.
Birch to remit this money at once from California to the cashier
of the bank, as our agent at San Antonio would need money to purchase new stock with which to replace those stolen by the Indians;
this letter I addressed to Sacramento, the city which would be his
headquarters during his stay in California.
[Desiring to make this draft the basis of a further credit for our
agent in San Antonio, I enclosed it to the firm there who had agreed
to make advances to the line. I requested them to continue such advances according to promise, and further desired them to collect this
draft of $5,000, passing the same to the credit of the line on open
account. In consequence of Mr. Birch's death this draft was not paid
at maturity, but returned protested to Texas, and is supposed to have
been in the mail on board the steamer Opelousas, which was lost in
the Gulf.]
Before leaving San Antonio I procured an order, which General
Twiggs gave me very cheerfully, requesting the commanders of the
military posts in his division to give me an escort for the mail whenever I asked it. I did not deem it necessary at this time to ask for
one, as I had with me twenty well armed men. Under any circumstances, however, when we were required to make mail speed, this
order for an escort would prove useless, inasmuch as by its terms I
was required to furnish transportation to the soldiers.  We could not
do it and make mail time. To escort a train of supplies for us, at any
time, such an order would prove very acceptable, when the speed is
about one-half that of the mail.
In this same order of General Twiggs, of which I regret not having
a copy, he gave us permission to place our mules in the government
herd, and also to keep an hostler with them at each of the military
posts.
Camped for the night, at 1021 p. m.; made 42 miles to-day. August
5. Left camp at 4.40.
Leaving Fort Clarke may be properly described as leaving the
settlements for the Indian country. This fact in connexion with the
recent accident to our train made us all now doubly cautious on our
day and night guards.
At noon to-day we saw Indian signs around a water hole; these
signs consisted of pony tracks, unshod hoofs, and moccasin prints;
, I
,    4,,..,. "
- --    -- - -                                  —,-  - - -- - l-.1 - 
10
they were presumed by our most most expert frontier men to be only
a few hours old. Camped for the night at 8 p. m.
Made 41 miles to-day.
August 6.-Left camp at 4 a. m.
[After this day I did not note the precise hour of leaving camp in
the morning, or of camping at night, because the jolting, or some
other cause, had put my own watch out of order. Our hours, however, were much the same as they have been stated until passing
the Tucson, west of which a large portion of the work was night
service.-See Journal, Sept. 1st to 18th.]
In carrying the mail we do not drive all the time from our morning
start to the night camp. We stop four times during the day; twice
for our two meals of breakfast and dinner; breakfast after the morning drive, dinner about 4 o'clock. We also stop once for a nooning,
and once about sunset to graze the mules, at which hour they seem to
feed best.
We stopped half an hour to-day at Camp Hudson, situated at the
second crossing of the San Pedro, or the Devil's river; here I found
the remnant of our coach, with the pole and ten spokes broken, the
bars gone, the top all stripped, a bullet hole through the body from a
gun, carbine, or some piece carrying a heavy ball, and fired by the
Indians. Made 42 miles to-day.
August 7.-To-day we crossed the Llano Estacado at the narrowest
part. By my schedule of distances you will perceive it is only thirty
miles from Howard Springs to Live Oak creek, and only a portion of
the distance can be properly called the staked plain; in fact this is
about its southern termination.  Uamped about midnight.  Made
52 miles to-day.
August 8.-Our morning drive brought us about breakfast time just
outside the lines at Fort Lancaster. I learned that Captain Skillman
had purchased a pair of mules here, and gone on in good condition.
We have had a fine road, with abundance of good grazing, all the
way from Fort Clarke to this post. Now that we have been a number
of days on our journey, we find that many of our mules are becoming
foot sore or tired; these are such as are new to the service, and they
become, by the time the night drive is over, very much fatigued.
Mules, with us, have to go through a period of hardening and a process
of acclimation before they become adapted to the purposes of prairie
staging. The speed at which we trot them, their hard work, the
drinking of different kinds of water at different stopping places, all try
the constitution of the animal, while even eating corn, which we feed
to them at all times, whether on the road or at stations, is something
to be learned. On the journey up from San Antonio to El Paso we
change the limestone water of the coast for the water impregnated
variously with vegetable matter, alkali, or sulphur. This change is
found to affect men as well as all descriptions of stock, and mules
often times give out when hard driven immediately after drinking
either the waters of the Pecos or those of any of the watering places
between that river and Fort Davis. Coming down the road from El
Paso to San Antonio, reversing the course of this change, the water is
not found to have the same effect. Took in a supply of corn, for which
11   4':
.:,,. I 
ll
we paid $2 50 per bushel.  Made 28 miles, camping on the Pecos at
8p. m.
August 9.-To-day we passed a freshly made grave which, marked
a spot which had recently been the scene of a battle between a party
of soldiers and the Indians. I gathered the following particulars:
The soldiers, under a sergeant, were escorting a mail which, previously
to the letting of our contract, had been once a month transported by
the quartermaster's department to and from Fort Davis and Fort
Clarke. While the soldiers were at dinner, a few Indians came into
their camp, under the protection of a white flag, asking for something
to eat. As it turned out from their subsequent attack, this visit was
.a ruse to ascertain the strength of the party, as well as to form an
idea of their vigilance. The soldiers treated them well, gave them
some trifles, and the Indians partook of their hospitality. At parting
they shook hands and went off on the road ahead, leaving the soldiers
without the slightest suspicion of any danger. A few hundred
yards from their camping place, as the wagon was descending a short
steep hill into a gully which runs from the mountains to the Pecos,
the soldiers were attacked by the Indians, and the sergeant was mortally wounded at the first fire. They retreated, fighting as well as
they were able, while four of them carried the wounded sergeant; but
an overwhelming number of the Indians pressed upon them so closely
that, at his earnest request to save themselves and drop him, as he
would only embarrass their efforts, they left the sergeant the prey of
the Indians and gathered around the wagon. They were finally compelled to abandon the property, with the result, usual in such cases,
of not being followed by the Indians, who only wanted the plunder.
The soldiers came into Fort Lancaster, distant about forty miles.
The policy which requires government officers to respect a white
flag in the hands of Indians has led to a number of massacres on the
road. The policy of the mail-men is, never, under any circumstances, to allow them near us, and much less to risk the danger of
having them actually in camp. They have repeatedly tried the ruse
of endeavoring to approach under the protection of a piece of dirty
cotton cloth tied to a spear, but we send a ball over their heads so soon
as they come within rifle range, after which warning they keep aloof.
Made 44 miles to-day.
August 10.-Made  45 miles  to-day,  without anything  having
happened of particular interest.
August 11. —Camped to-night a few miles east of Fort Davis, pre ferring to arrive there at breakfast to morrow morning. Our mules
were suffering yesterday and to-day from the effects of drinking the
sulphur waters, which mineral impregnates nearly all the springs and
creeks from the Pecos to Fort Davis.   \WVe are now rapidly ascending
the table land of western Texas, where copious rains have been falling
for some time. The grass is abundant and excellent in quality, but
rather young for working mules that are compelled to make speed.
The grass, combined with the sulphur water, compelled us for a day
or two to be cautious not to overwork our stock. We avoid trouble by
shortening our drives.
We made only 34 miles to-day. 
12
August 12.-At 3 a. m. this morning, accompanied by two men, I
took the mail on to Fort Davis in my own light carriage, drawn by
four mules, leaving the three heavy coaches and stock to come on at
their leisure. Fort Davis is about 4,500 feet above the ocean; and
before getting so far on my road even as this post, I had found the
coaches, of which we had purchased eleven for the line, so heavy as
to be unfit for the service. [The continual ascent of the roads, together
with the weight the mules were compeIled to haul, had fatigued them
so much that I deemed it necessary to change them, if possible. To
borrow some government mules for the trip to El Paso seemed to be
an excellent plan, if I could procure such a privilege. I would then
leave those I had here to be used as relays for the next up mail. From
the information I had obtained, I had not the least doubt but that
I could purchase plenty of mules in E1 Paso to use in stocking the
upper portion of our road. I made application to Colonel Sewall,
the commanding officer at this post, who, upon reflection, decided to
loan me the mules I wanted. I made an arrangement which I considered a very favorable one, and it certainly was a great advantage
at the time, but it afterwards proved a prolific source of trouble to me.
To sustain my application for mules, I represented to Colonel Sewall
my exact position; that I was the superintendent of the road and also
sole agent for the contractor; that I was engaged in stocking and putting in running order this pioneer mail. I further took the liberty of
stating how great an interest your department felt in the enterprise.
I proposed to leave my forty-two mules at the fort, and that he should
loan me thirty-six of theirs to take our coaches to E1 Paso. I stated
to him my plan of purchasing on the Rio Grande all the mules I
needed, and that I would return his at once with the first down mail.
To this arrangement he assented, sending a corporal and two men
with me to take charge of the mules.
I may as well mention here that, on reaching E1 Paso; I found myself in a position where, in consequence of inability to purchase mules,
I had either to stop the mail until I could collect them in the towns
up and down the valley and over the river, or else to take some of
these Fort Davis mules further on my journey.  Believing myself
justified, under the circumstances, in deviating my promise as to the
time of returning the mules, I took fourteen of them with me to Tucson; the balance, twenty-two in number, I returned at once to Fort
Davis by the corporal. Of these fourteen so taken, seven were returned to Fort Davis during the period of my stay on the Pacific,
while the other seven were replaced from our own herd, by virtue of an agreement which allowed Colonel Sewell to take such of
ours as he wanted, to replace any of his mules which might be missing. Colonel Sewall was so indignant at my not sending back the
whole number of his mules at once, that he wrote to all the posts
along our line, requesting them to refuse me any favor, alleging, as
his reason, my bad faith to him.  He further desired the officers to continue such refusal until the mule transaction should be settled to his
satisfaction. This request gave the line considerable trouble at Fort
Fillmore, during my absence. On my return to Fort Davis I was unable to appease Colonel Sewell, though I explained to him the whole
O' 
13
transaction, as I have endeavored to do here. He refused to order the
quartermaster to withdraw his offensive letter to the posts on the line,
although this was the point I particularly urged for his consideration, as injurious to our interests. I feel now, as I did at the time of
taking the mules-which I did not do without reflection-that the
circumstances justified my course; that the interest of the overland
mail to the government was above the value even of the whole number
of mules borrowed, and that, under these circumstances, I should
have been forgiven for not keeping my promise.]
4ugug8st 13.-Left Fort Davis at 5.40 a. m. Early this morning I
met the mail from Santa Fe, and, in accordance with the agreement
between Mr. Giddings and myself to incorporate our two stocks, so as
to perform the tri-monthly service, I sent back a portion of my own
party, with orders to return as far as Fort Clarke. One great advantage of this additional force to the party going down was the greater
protection the mail would receive in passing through that portion of
the Indian country so recently the scene of depredations.
Made 29 miles to-day.
August 14.-Our government mules, fresh and corn-fed, took us
along at a much more rapid pace than we have been in the habit of
travelling during the course of the past week.
We made 60 miles to-day.
August 15.-Our second drive to-day was for a mile or more, through
a long and narrow canon, with the mountains bordering the Rio
Grande on the east. This canon led us into the valley of the river,
at a point one hundred miles below where our road leaves it in going
westward. After crossing the valley, and making a camp on the
banks of the river, our road to-day turns abruptly northward. We
encountered a terrible thunder storm at noon, it being the first heavy
rain we have had on the road.  August is one of the rainy months
throughout this portion of the Rio Grande valley and Sonora; we
may, therefore, expect many such storms before reaching the coast
range of mountains which form the climatic boundary between California and Arizona. After a thorough drenching, we started at two
o'clock, in a bright sunny afternoon, and drove slowly up the Rio
Grande. Through this particular portion of the valley the rainy
season is an advantage to the otherwise sandy road. Along here, animals which are fatigued from a tedious or rapid journey through
Texas must be well treated or they give out.  Fifty miles above here,
in the neighborhood of San Eleazario, and, indeed, at all the Spanish
towns along the river, the road is made much worse by the rains.
The corn and wheat fields are all cultivated by irrigation, and the
irrigating ditches, called acequias, liable to be overflowed from the
rain, cross the roads in many places. Camped to-night on a slough
of the river.
Made 40 miles to-day.
A4ugust 16.-The road proving so very muddy in some places andcl
heavy from sand in others, besides finding it was growing more and
more muddy as we proceeded, I took my light four-mule carriage,
with a change of animals, left all our heavy coaches and baggage, and
started on with the mails. We reached the Tresidio of San Elearan 
14
at 7 p. m. to-day; there we changed our mail, and then pushed on,
after dark, for Socorro, where the conductor, with his train, was waiting to take the mail through to Santa Fe. Our drive from San Elearan to Socorro was at a slow walk through mud and water all the way,
caused by the recent rains overflowing the ditches. Many portions of
the surrounding country were covered with water like a lake.
Made 43 miles to-day.
August 17.-Rained all night, showering during the moring.  I
went nineteen miles to-day, to Franklin, El Paso. The Santa F6
mail went on to its destination. The quartermaster at Fort Bliss
very kindly gave me the use of his blacksmith shop in which to repair
one of my wagons, by which timely aid I was enabled to place it in a
pretty decent condition for service. Looked about me for mules to
complete my outfit for the Pimos villages, but much to my disappointment could find none suited to our service. Mules are scarce at El
Paso.
August 18.-Another rainy day, with occasional sunshine.  Found
an abundance of very excellent fruit at El Paso: pears, peaches, and
particularly grapes. The heavy train came in to-day.
.August 19.-A beautiful day; I find some difficulty in purchasing
the required corn for my mules. Last year the corn crop of this valley
was a partial failure, in consequence of which the corn at present in
use here is brought from Chihuahua; I pay equal to about $2 50
per bushel. I find it impossible to purchase mules and get them here
in season to be of use for the next mail going west, due here on the
21st or 22d. To insure that the next mail shall go forward with
despatch, I deemed it best to-day to send the train up the river with
directions to proceed as far as Fort Fillmore, 50 miles above El Paso,
there to await the coming mail.  Our mules need shoeing, and some
other preparations are required for the journey.  I have bought all
the mules I could find, and lastly borrowed fourteen from the herd
of government mules which I brought from Fort Davis. The others
I returned in charge of the coporal who came up with me, (see journal,
August 2.) I purchased to-day a pair of large Missouri mules, and
at once sent my small wagon and nine mules down to the Presido, 25
miles below El Paso, with directions to receive the up mail there, and
bring it with all speed to Fort Fillmore; this I planned to save time.
A4ugust 20.-Was engaged all day in preparing the way, as far as
possible, to have the business of the line run smoothly during my
absence, I stored my two heavy coaches to wait the chances of the future.
A4ugust 21. —Early this afternoon an express came in from Captain
Holliday, who was en route to Fort Fillmore, for the purposes stated
under date of August 19. He wrote me that his wagon had broken
down, with the further prospect of being scarcely able to reach the
post with it. I immediately purchased a private carriage, the only
one in E1 Paso any way suited to our purpose. By the kindness of
Colonel Reeves, commanding Fort Bliss, who loaned me a team, I was
enabled to despatch the carriage for Fort Fillmore this evening. I
had no mules at Franklin with which to send it up. At 10 p. m. the
mail and Mr. Giddings came in from San Antonio, having left there
August 9, the contract day. Our coach arrived here with a broken 
15
pole which is by no means a small obstacle in this remote country,
particularly when the accident chances to happen after dark and
no other carriage is to be obtained, while the mail must go on. By
splicing we made it answer our present purpose, though consuming
nearly all night in preparations.
August 22.-Left El Paso at three o'clock, a. m., and found the
roads heavy all the way along the river. Succeeded in reaching Fort
Fillmore at six o'clock, p. m., after a day's work of forty-two miles.
I found the train encamped ready for departure, only waiting my
arrival with the mail. We examined the Rio Grande to-night, preparatory to crossing; found the river not fordable, and also found
there would be too much risk in attempting to ferry over in the
night; thus we are unwillingly compelled to remain encamped on
the east bank until to-morrow morning. Another source of trouble
was my carriages; I found that neither of those I now had were fit
to go on the road. Those we had originally purchased, two of which
I brought up with me, were too heavy for the mules, while the two I
now had were not strong enough to carry the required loads. In this
dilemma I despatched two men to Las Cruces, six miles above Fort
Fillmore, giving them orders to purchase at any fair price, if suited
to our purpose, a second-hand carriage which we heard was' there for
sale. My messengers returned about two o'clock in the morning with
an old ambulance, which answered a good purpose all the way to San
Diego. By setting the axletrees of one of my other carriages I
thought to secure two, which would answer a temporary purpose.
Made 44 miles to day.
August 23.-We commenced crossing the river at about sunrise.
Our method was this: we placed all our baggage and mails in skiffs,
and ferrying them over in the first place, then swam our mules, and
lastly the carriages were crossed, by placing the wheels of one side of
the carriage on one skiff, and those of the other side in another skiff,
and poling them along; on reaching the other side we pulled the
carriage up the steep bank by man power.
At the town of Mesilla, which is situated some four miles from the
ferry, I had to purchase yet another carriage in place of one of mine,
the axeltrees of which proved entirely too light. This made four carriages I had purchased since arriving in the Rio Grande valley, before
getting two which were even temporarily fit for carrying the mail.
We finally got away from Mesilla at 11 o'clock, a. m. In consequence of the muddy state of the roads across the valley, which was
here one continuous cornfield for some half dozen miles, we made very
slow progress. The Mlesa, so called, rises very abruptly after you
cross the valley, and we pass to the left of this Mesa through some one
of its numerous canons or gorges. The only road accessible at this
time to wagons was so dimly defined that we missed our way and consumed all of the afternoon in trying to get to the top of the Mesa, and
ended in being compelled to return to the village of I Pechacio,"
where we passed the night. Made 8 miles to-day.
.August 24. —Left Pechacio village at daylight, this time with another
guide; reached the top of the Mesa through a canon and road some 
16
three miles long.  We are now crossing the jornada of 65 miles, be tween La Mesilla and Cook's wells. We found the road somewhat
muddy, the result of the recent rains. We had a fearful thunder
storm at noon to-day, and in about half an hour every one was wet
through to the skin; afterwards the sun came out warm and pleasant
and dried us to a cheerful temperature again. To-day our conductor,
Captain Holliday, who is an experienced voyageur on the plains, discovered a natural tank in the rocks. He was first attracted to it by
noticing a pair of doves which flew over his head and alighted there.
[This tank held enough to water all of our mules, and on my return
trip in November, I learned that the same conductor had found water
enough for his mules every trip during the intermediate period. I
state this incident as one illustrative of the probable chances of finding
places adapted to natural tanks. Doves and a species of small sparrow are said to be sure signs of water.]
Camped at 82 p. m., making 48 miles to-day.
August 25.-Started at daylight this morning, and breakfasted at
Cook's spring, in a drizzling rain, which lasted at intervals all day.
This spring is at the foot of the eastern slope of the Sierra Madre
mountains. By examining the table of distances, it will be noticed
that the Rio Mimbres is eighteen miles westward from Cook's spring.
We breakfasted at Cook's spring, and dined several miles west of the
M~imbres. This speed made over the mountains will, I think, convey
a good idea of what must be the nature of our roads through the Sierra
Madre. Passed the Rio Mimbres just before dinner; we had to be very
cautious in crossing, else the force of the current would have upset our
carriages; the stream was so much of a flood that we had to have one
of the men plunge into the water and hold up the lead mules by a rope
fastened to their heads. The force of the current and depth of water took
them off their feet for a distance of a few yards. A few weeks later, one
of our mail trains going west was camped two days on the eastern camp
of the Mimbres, unable to cross. We stopped at Cow spring for a couple
of hours, about sunset, to graze our animals; camped for the night at
the mouth of a caion leading up to the Burre mountains; camped at
10 o'clock 30 minutes, making fifty-five miles to-day.
Atugust 26.-Started at daylight. About 8 o'clock this morning,
coming down through one of the many canons leading from the Burre
mountains, we found the mail coach which Captain Skillman had taken
from San Antonio standing in our road. My first thought was, that
another train had been cut off by the Indians, but an examination
soon showed the nature of the accident; one of the hind wheels had
evidently crushed down, and the two forward ones were gone. The
wagon stood propped up carefully in the middle of the road. We
concluded that Capt. Skillman had gone on with his two forward wheels,
making what travellers term a "cache" among the surrounding rocks
of all his spare articles. This we afterwards found to be the case. We
stopped here only about as long as it takes to write the fact, then rolled
away over the plaza on our journey. About sunset, we had a small
sample of what might be suffered for want of water, if men were ignorantof the road. We hadbrought water from where we breakfasted to
answer for our dinner uses, but the day had been very-warm, and all of
us had drunk very freely, until our canteens had become low. We were 
17
deceived by some wagon tracks into turning off from the main road,
losing considerable time in finding our way back again, both men and
mules being very thirsty. We found water in wagon ruts and holes
in the ground. Down went men on the ground, mules and men both
drinking in the same manner from the same holes. More accurate in formation as to distances, and the consequent preparation we now
make for any portion of our journey, where we know there is a long
stretch without water, does away with any danger from thirst, so far
as the men and passengers are concerned; the mules sometimes have
to go all day without water.  Camped at 11 o'clock.
Made 43 miles today.
Augi.st 27.-Off at 5.30 a. m.  Crossed the Saur river this morning; found it quite a stream, and the land swampy on both sides, with
plenty of water at the crossing. I had a splendid shot at a fine flock of
wild ducks.  At 4 p. m. we camped for dinner in the Chiracahui
mountains at what is termed Apache Spring. Here we met the train
of Paymaster Major Brice, en route for Fort Bliss.   He had been
paying off the trooops at Fort Buchanan.
Showery this afternoon. About noon we saw the tracks of Captain
Skillman's two wheels; he was returning eastward; he took a different road from the one we came. I regretted missing him. This pass
through the Chiracahui mountains is the most tedious of any we have
on our road through Arizona, though this is only slow by comparison
with the pass through the Sierra Madre. Though slow, the road is
excellent, excepting for a short distance and the climbing of a number of steep hills.
From the Rio Saur to Dos Cabesas Spring is thirty-two miles.- We
made this in seven hours driving time. We breakfasted at the Saur;
made two camps in the distance, making our last drive for the day
after we had passed Dos Cabesas spring. Camped at 12 o'clock, midnight. Made 47 miles to-day.
August 28.-Harnessed at 5.45 a. m. To-day we left the main
travelled road, now in use by the troops, and by trains of supplies
en route to Fort Buchanan.   This road turns southward before
coming to the San Pedro river, crossing that stream higher up than
we do. The main road is in nearly a due west course till we reach
the river; then we turn northward six miles before coming to the
ford. This cult-off is not so well defined as the road we had been
travelling.  Our route lies through Tucson, to which place there has
been but little direct trade; and as this was only the second mail coach
which has come over the road, we found the way by no means very
clearly marked out. We did not deem it prudent to cross the San
Pedro river to-night, as the recent rains had swollen it to a much
higher point than usual. Camped for the night on the eastern
branch of the San Pedro at 11.15 p. m.  Made 42 miles to-day.
August 29.-Crossed the San Pedro as soon as it was light
enoughl to see. About 10 o'clock this morning, as we were making
our second drive for the day, I saw a party approaching us mounted
on mules. Rode forward to meet them. They proved to be the mail
party from San Diego, who left there 9th August with an outfit of
2 
18
saddle mules and pack animals.  Our agent had reached San Diego
with men and supplies on the 21st of July, in ample time to have
started the mail of the 24th, if he could have procured animals.-(See
Journal of June 20.) This mail had been twenty days in coming
from San Diego to our place of meeting, forty miles east of Tucson.
Our mail had been twenty days coming twice the distance. I had sent
positive orders in my letters, per steamer of 20th June, to San Francisco, that the mail should be started in a coach, if possible, but that at
all events it was only to be sent as far east as the Pimos villages.
(See Journal of July 24.) Mr. Birch had deemed it best in San
Francisco to alter this plan, and ordered complete outfits to be sent
from San Diego, to go through to San Antonio. I ordered this mail
party back, to return with me to Tucson, as nothing was to be gained
by their continuing on.  At 8 o'clock I mounted my mule, and went
on to Tucson with two men. We reached there at 2 o'clock in the
morning. My purpose in hastening on in advance of the train was
to lose no time, but to purchase mules at once, with which to proceed
to San Diego with the through mail. I wished also, if possible, to
buy some description of vehicle, in which to send the mail back to
El Paso. Train camped in a drizzling rain at 11 o'clock.
Made 49 miles to-day.
Ai4gust 30.-Commenced operations at daylight.  I found here Mr.
Tivey, formerly of Texas, a surveyor from California, who was en
,route for Santa Fe. He had with him a wagon which would suit our
purpose, also a dozen of good mules; he had been waiting some weeks
for company. I made an arrangement with this gentleman by which
he loaned the mail party his outfit, and agreed to accompany them to
La Mesilla. This he did, partly for the consideration of protection,
but principally from public spirit and a desire to see the new mail
line go into operation at once; besides, having been an extensive
traveller himself in new countries, he had a good idea of the obstacles
to be overcome in our early organization. The wagon and mules
belonging to Mr. Tivey, added to those mules I had brought on which
were in condition to return, made a respectable outfit to use in sending the mail back to El Paso. I made up another outfit for myself
by taking the inferior of the two carriages I had brought,from
La Mesilla, purchasing seven mules and selecting five more from
among those belonging to the San Diego party, whom I had turned
back. To aid me in taking the mail through to its destination, a
distance of 469 miles, I took two Americans and a Mexican, making
four of us in the party, as we should soon be beyond the point where
the Apaches are in the practice of roaming, and, therefore, so strong
a party as came from La Mesilla to Tucson would be unnecessary.
For the first time since coming on to the road I took command of the
mail party.  To make the needed connexion here between the eastern
and western divisions of our road, I made two arragements of mail
parties.  I detailed two men to come on slowly to the Pimosillages,
with instructions to await there the next mail from San Ant6nio. On
receiving the mail they were to push on with all speeId for Yuma,
180 miles from Pimos, where I would leave further instructions.
I took with me two other men, whom I also proposed leaving at the 
19
Pimos under instruction to return to Tucson with the next mail
going east, which mail would have left San Diego August 24.
At Tucson they were to deliver the mail to the present train, which
would wait as long as possible. Got away about noon, and in the
night met with a disagreeable accident: the perch of our carriage
broke. We spliced it with mezquit branches and ropes, but, in the
first gully we went through, we broke down again even worse than
before. This second accident happened at 2 o'clock in the morning;
our carriage was a complete wreck, but in any view of the case it was
apparently best to camp until daylight; we could then see whether
the damages could be repaired or the carriage would have to be abandoned. Camped about 3 o'clock in the morning. Made 36 miles since
leaving Tucson.
August 31.-At daylight we commenced repairing damages.  I
found that by taking out one of the standards to the top of the carriage, and wrapping that and a piece of broken whiffle tree tightly
with raw hides soaked soft in water, the coach promised well for a
temporary purpose with a light weight. To lighten us I left on the
road our agent for the Pimos station whom I had with me, also the
two men who were to return to Tucson with the mail. I then proceeded on my journey towards San Diego. Camped about 12 o'clock
on the banks of the Gila river. Made 40 miles to-day.
September 1.-Offat daylight this morning; reached the first village of the Pimos about sunrise, and there I bought the corn necessary for our mules, a little wheat for same purpose, and a few beans,
also a pair of chickens. (Wheat should be fed sparingly, and soaked
before using.)  Our barter consisted of cotton cloth and a few bells,
both of which I purchased in Tucson. Camped for breakfast at the
Maricopa wells, which we have since selected as the site for our station; remained at the wells until 3 p. im. waiting for our agent to
come up whom I yesterday left behind on the road. Finally he came
along, and we prepared for a start. While camping at the wells I
was witness to the largest Indian battle of the times. The Yuma Indians, aided by the Mojaves and Tonto Apaches as their allies, attacked.
the Maricopas just before daylight this morning.   The Maricopas
and Pimos are allied strongly together. The former being comparatively few in numbers, are rather under the protection of the
more numerous Pimos. The Maricopas are the more western of the
two tribes, and as the Yumas approached from down the river, their
villages were consequently the first attacked. Some warriors and their
families were killed, and their huts fired before the presence of the
Yumas was known. We saw the huts blazing and thought they were
signal fires. Besides warriors on foot, every Indian that could get a
horse was in the fight, many of them going a half dozen miles to reach
the battle ground. One aged chief, whose wife had been killed by
the Yumas, rode furiously up t6 our camp, foaming at the mouth,
and begged of us in good Spanish to aid them against the Yumas; of
course we declined. When the battle was over he refused to speak or
understand a word of Spanish.
The principal fight was along the bank of the Gila, not half a mile
from our camp. One hundred and four Yumas left their villages at 
20
the junction of the Gila and Colorado, led on by a young and amb i
tious chief, whose new dignity required some striking act to dazzle his
people. He and ninety-three of his warriors were killed within an half
hour, on the side of a hill in plain view from the spot where I was
reclining under a tree.
At this place the river makes what is termed " the big bend" of the
Gila; the road lies nearly due east and west, while the river makes a
horse shoe, probably four times as long as the distance from the Maricopa to Tazotal, at which place the road touches the river again. By
the schedule of distances you will perceive it is forty miles from Maricopa to Tazotal.
We started from Maricopa Wells at 3 p. m. and drove all night,
reaching Tazotal for our breakfast camp a little after sunrise.
Made 69 miles to-day.
September 2.-After breakfast this morning we made a drive of ten
miles, and then lay by to avoid travelling during the hottest part of
the day. The four of us take turns in sleeping and herding mules.
Fed our animals on the Mesquit beans, of which there is a great
abundance along the Gila river. Started from camp at 3 o'clock p.
3a; about sunset met the mail party of August 24, from San Diego,
equipped in the same excellent manner for the service as the party of
August 9.  The train I had come on with from El Paso, together
with the addition made by Mr. Tivey, was waiting at Tucson for this
mail; to expedite its progress, I had brought two men to the Maricopa
station to take it back to Tucson, (see journal of August 30,) but I
had also left orders with these men not to wait any longer than sunset
to-night, as the conductor and train must return to La Mesilla at
once to be in time to bring westward, from E1 Paso to Tucson, the
mail of September 9, from San Antonio.  In view of these orders,
together with the certainty of not being able to make the connexion at Tucson, I turned this party back to Fort Yuma.  I gave
instructions to the conductor of this mail to equip himself and two
men for a light service of three days' duration, and to be in readiness
to take the next mail, namely, that of September 9, from San Diego,
and carry it with all possible speed to 3Iaricopa station, at which place
the carriage, or an escort for Tucson, would thereafter be waiting to
receive it.  We drove until 10 p. m., then camped on the banks of the
Gila- waiting for the moon to rise before attempting to cross. Moon
rose nearly full, and at about 12 o'clock we crossed and recrossed the
Gila, leaving ourselves on the southern bank from which we started.
Drove until about three o'clock in the morning.
Made 40 miles to-day.
September 3.-Started at daylight.  Camped about four hours at
noon to rest ourselves and animals. Started at four o'clock and drove
till dark.  Started again at ten o'clock, p. m., and drove till.o
o'clock in the morning. 
Made 56 miles to-day..
September 4.-Off at daylight; we should have made a good morning drive, but our carriage stuck in a mud hole, and we had to
lighten it by stripping and wading in; even then we hauled it
out with difficulty. It had been raining on the Gila during the 
21
past few weeks, and the road in many places is gullied, while mud
holes are common, and I noticed considerable standing water.  We
reached Colorado city, opposite Fort Yuma, at 11 o'clock p. m., here
we changed a few of our mules, took the mail for San Diego from the
quartermaster, and repaired our coach with additions of leather and
raw hide. These operations consumed the balance of the night, and
it was daylight when we hitched up for a start.
Made 49 miles to-day.
September 5.-Crossed the Colorado about sunrise over an excellent
ferry, then drove to Cook's Wells to breakfast, 20 miles. We remained
encamped at Cook's Wells to rest ourselves and animals till nearly sunset, and then started to cross what is considered the worst portion
of the Colorado desert, namely, a distance of twenty-two miles through
heavy sand from Cook's Wells to Alamo Mucho. This journey consumed the night. We reached the Alamo Mucho wells at daylight.
Made 42 miles to-day.
September 6.-To-day we pushed all day long to get over the desert,
and reached Indian Wells about sunset, twenty-two miles from Alamo
Mucho; our road was much better than that of last night. Here we expected to find water for ourselves and stock, but an encampment of
Yuma Indians had used it nearly all up, and we could only procure
enough for our own dinner; none was to be had for the mules, so we
tried to console them with a feed of corn.  The want of water left us
no resource but to push on for Carissa creek, thirty-two miles more.
We travelled all night and reached Carissa creek about sunrise in the
morning. This portion of the road is by no means a bad one.
Made 52 miles to-day.
September 7.-We found our fourteen animals were now very much
fatigued. They have had no sleep from Fort Yuma to Carissa, while
many of them have come with me all the way from Tucson in less
than eight days; they had had no water for twenty-four hours that
is, from Alamo Mucho to this place, Carissa; here they filled themselves at once with the medicated waters of the creek, and thus destroyed their appetites, so that they would not eat a proper quantity
of hay or grain.  At 9 o'clock, when we left, they were very tired,
sleepy, and unwilling to go. Under these circumstances, I decided to
select the best animals from among our tmulada, and push on over the
coast range of mountains to San Diego with the mail, taking only one
man with me; the coach would come the longer road, by way of San
Ysabel. I put this decision in execution about 9 o'clock in the morning, and reached Vallecita at 2 p. m., where we procured something to
eat, but could get none of the Indians to guide us over the mountains,
as I had confidently calculated upon being able to do. There was no
resource left us but to push on alone; so, taking minute directions
where to find the best trail, we recommenced our journey, expecting
to climb the mountains in time to reach Lassator's ranch, in one of
the valleys, by or before sunset. Our tired animals proved unequal
to the required speed, so that after climbing the steep mule-path
which led up the mountain for several miles, we camped on our trail,
in the middle of a splendid table-land covered with pine trees, situated
near the top of the mountains
The moon came up about 11 o'clock, giving enough light for us to keep 
the trail; once we chased a star for a mile, thinking it was a light in,t
hut; finally reaching the ranch without accident, or much detention
on the way, at 2 o'clock in the morning. Tried to procure horses at
once to proceed on to San Diego, but the animals were all turned out
in the valley grazing and could not be had before morning. We
reluctantly went to bed, and, once in the hay-stack, we slept soundly
till daylight.
Made 36 miles to-day.
September 8.-At 9 o'clock a. m. we left Lassator's ranch with fresh
animals, this time mounted on horses. After a toilsome day's journey down the mountains, we reached San Diego at 10 o'clock p. m.,
bringing the first through mail which had reached here in schedule
time. I had come myself from San Antonio to San Diego in thirtyeight days.
September 9.-This morning I despatched the mail from San Diego
in charge of two men, with directions to deliver it at Fort Yuma to
the party I had left there, who would in turn carry it to the Pimos
villages at Maricopa station, or at Tucson, where a coach would be in
readiness to carry it on to La Mesilla, at whliich last place a second coach
would carry it to the Presidio of San Eleazario. Each of these parties
going east, after delivering their mail, were under instructions to wait
and bring back a return mail over that portion of the road allotted to
them. [These were the arrangements I had made en route, and up to
this date they have insured the prompt delivery of the mails at each
end of our line.]
When Mr. Birch and myself parted in New York, on the 23d of
June, we made an arrangement to meet in San Diego as soon as I
could get there; I would then have travelled across the continent,
and thus be able to report understandingly about the route, with estimates of expenditures made up to that time, obligations incurred, and
promises given. Together we could then estimate for the future, and
Mr. Birch was to give me, in San Diego, all the money I needed in retracing my steps to San Antonio, at which latter place he would again meet
me on my return. With this understanding, I had promised all along
the line, to whomsoever should aid us, that I would return from California with the coin to pay up all obligations.  3r. Giddings also
made use of this promise for me during my absence. Under my understanding of this agreement, I was not only very much surprised
but embarrassed, on reaching San Diego, to hear of Mr. Birch's departure from San Francisco per mail steamer of August 20. Neither
did I find here any advices as to his movements; furthermore, the
coast steamer had left for San Francisco on the 6th, two days before
my arrival, and would not be here to leave again until the 21st. Thus
I was compelled to entire inaction towards placing the Pacific end of
our line in good condition until I could send to San Francisco for
coaches, harness, provisions, general equipment, and money. My
time, from the 9th to the 21st, appeared to be nearly or quite useless
to the line, except in scouring the country for mules, which proved to
be not particularly plenty in that section of California.
[Had not Mr. Birch been lost in the Central America September 11,
no trouble would have arisen from his not having met me according
to agreement. He could have explained everything satisfactorily,
22 
23
and shown, in my opinion, that he had otherwise planned well for
the maintenance of our credit.]
September 13.-To-day I despatched a party of our men with a
wagon and saddle mules, under instructions to examine very care-fully the mountain passes eastward of San Diego, that we might find,
if possible, a better and shorter route for a road than the present circuitous one by way San Ysabel. The county surveyor very kindly
accompanied our party, giving us the benefit of his experience; so
also did one of the county supervisors, thus showing the great interest
which the citizens of San Diego felt in the success of an overland
mail. [Our party returned on the 18th, reporting having found a
trail which, in their opinion, could be made an excellent road with &
moderate outlay of labor.]
September 21.-To-day I despatched a messenger to San Francisco
by the steamer, with instructions to make, as far as possible, all
needful purchases of supplies for the western end of the line, and to
bring them to San Diego by return steamer.  I leave at the earliest
possible moment to retrace my steps over the road, as I had promised
to be back about October.
September 24.-I contracted to-day for hay and straw to supply
stations we had made on the desert, at Yallecita and Carissa creeks.
September 29.-To-day I despatched a train, consisting of a coach
and wagon, destined for our mail station at Maricopa wells; they
were loaded with rations for the men who remain there permanently
October 4.-Despatched a relay of ten mules over the mountains to
meet and accompany the train of September 29.
October 6.-Steamer arrived from San Francisco this morning,
having on board for us all the supplies our agent had been able to
obtain. Commenced at once preparing for my return trip.
October 17.-To-day I despatched two coaches with complete outfits
of animals and other necessaries. One of the coaches is to run between Carissa creek and Fort Yuma; the other is to run between
Fort Yuma and Maricopa wells. I despatched these coaches to-day
in order to have them at their stations in readiness to take through
any passengers for Arizona or San Antonio which might come from
San Francisco by steamer of the 18th. We had advertised in the
California papers that we were ready for passengers as follows:
Ofce of the San Antonio and San Diego Mail Line.-This line is
now ready to ticket passengers through from San Francisco to New
Orleans, via San Diego, Fort Yuma, Tucson, Mlesilla, Fort Filmore,
E1 Paso, and San Antonio, as well as to all intermediate stations.
Also to Santa F6 and Albuquerque, (New Mexico.) For rates of passage, and further information, apply at the office of the company,
IKearny street, (opposite Plaza.)
C. McLAUGHLIN, AgeAto
R. E. DOYLE,
Superintendent Western Division.
October 22. This morning I despatched two more coaches and fourteen animals heavily laden with every description of supplies for the
line. They go round to Carissa creek by the road, while I shall
take the shorter mountain trail to-morrow. 
24
October 23. Left San Diego on horseback this morning, accompanied
by Mr. Doyle and one of my through passengers, of whom I had
several.
October 25. Passed the day in the mountains at our corral, branding
a mulada of seventy-five animals, which I had purchased for the line.
October 27.-Reached Carissa creek, the place of rendezvous, early
this afternoon, with our mulada; found the coaches waiting. My
party now consisted of twelve men, with three coaches, seventy-two
animals, and everything necessary for our stage purposes. Our progress to Fort Yuma was slow. We left Carissa creek the 28th October
and reached the fort November 2d; the delay arose from the fact that
fifty-nine of our animals strayed away, detaining us two days in finding them in the desert.
November 5.-To-day the mail came in from the east, bringing to
me the melancholy news of Mr. Birch's death. This intelligence very
naturally alarmed the parties at Colorado city, who had been furnishing our men with supplies. Feeling myself perfectly sure that Mr.
Birch's death would have no influence in disarranging the affairs of
the line, I assured the parties of my determination to continue, as I
had planned, to San Antonio, and to see that the business was properly
cared for. Mr. Doyle, who had accompanied me thus far from San
Diego, joined with me in assuring our creditors here that we would
both continue in as vigorous a superintendence as ever of the interests
of the mail.
The Steamer General Jesup came up the river to-day with a cargo for
the quartermaster at the post. This steamer is one of two boats owned
by Johnson & Co., who are the government contractors for transporting all supplies from the mouth of the river to Fort Yuma. This boat
would be a credit to her owners and builders by comparison with
steamboats anywhere.
November 7.-Left Fort Yuma  to-day; had with me two of the
coaches with which I originally started, loaded with supplies; I had
also seventy-nine of the mules. Left coach and relays at the fort.
November 9.-To-day we left Peterman's station, (on the bank of the
Gila,) consisting of a log house and excellent corral, built since I
passed here. Peterman told me he had built this station, which he
intended making his permanent residence, in order to obtain the business of the mail line. I purchased of him several tons of mezquit
beans, besides contracting for a supply of hay.
The soil in this neighborhood is excellent. Already this enterprising
pioneerhascontractedwith apartyof Mexicans to builda main irrigating
ditch from the Gila, with branches sufficient to enable him to cultivate
several hundred acres of land. The Mexicans are now at work. I
made such arrangements for him, by writing to an agent at Fort Yuma,
as would secure the necessary barley for seed, making at same time a
conditional purchase of all his crop. Hie felt confident of gathering
a good harvest the present season.  Peterman originally came up here
from Fort Yuma to execute a contract for several tons of mezquit
beans, made with the parties who are contractors for hauling the ore
of the Arizona Copper Mining Company to Fort Yuma. From the
fort this copper ore is carried by steamer to the mouth of the Colorado
river; thence by sailing vessel to San Francisco. 
25
Had conversations with two other men to-day, who said they were
half determined to open stations on the Gila for our accommodation;
they anticipated also the chance of selling supplies to emigrants, and
trading for cattle.
November 11.-Came this morning to the ford where the road usually
crosses the Gila. One of our men stripped and swam across the river.
I could see plainly that the current was too swift and the volume of
water too great to justify the risk of attempting to cross our coaches
without unloading them. We preferred making a long detour over
the hills rather than attempt fording. The bottom of the river at
these fords is a sort of quicksand, likely to prove troublesome when
the river is swollen by rains, as it is now.
November 12.-Came to the other ford of the Gila at Oatman flat,
but preferred not to attempt to cross.
November 13.-To-day we were on the jornada between Tezotal
and Maricopo station; found plenty of water, the rains having been
recent and very heavy.
November 14.-Reached our station at the Maricopa Wells to-night,
after getting bogged in the mud and having to send to the station for
assistance. No one could see the road, for the night was very dark.
The sagacious instinct of my mule here did me good service. Giving
her the reins, she took me through mud holes, around pools of water,
on the road direct to the station, where she remembered having been
fed with corn a few weeks before.
At the station to-night we numbered so large a party that many of
us had to sleep out of doors; what with mail men waiting to go to
Tucson, mail men waiting to return to Fort Yuma, Maricopa agent,
our herdsman, three passengers for Tucson, seven through passengers,
cook, and one or two travellers who always make our station their
stopping place, added to my own party, and all of us particularly well
armed, we felt ourselves to be rather formidable enemies to the
Apaches.
November l1.-Quite a change has taken place since my passing
here on the 1st of September. At that time I left two men, with two
mules and accoutrements, a few rations, a little cotton cloth, and a
few beads for barter, also a little money. Now I found a comfortable
house built by putting upright poles in the ground, thatching them with
tules, and covering the sides with the same. The agent had also put
up a decent brush corral in which to keep our animals safe at night,
for we are liable here to inroads from the Tonte Apaches.
Had a conference to-day with the Indians, who had been for a number of weeks around our post enquiring anxiously for my coming.
They now squatted to have a smoke and get some presents.  They informed me through an interpreter, who spoke very decent Spanish,
that all the grass and the water and the land around us belonged to
their tribe; that I must pay them for protecting as well as for feeding
all of the many mules they saw grazing about there daily which they
found it convenient to consider as mine personally. I had promised
them, when going west, that on my way back we would have this talk,
and as far as possible prepared myself fbr them at San Diego. I gave
such of them special presents as had particularly aided our agents
during my absence. I fed the principal, gave all the warriors plugs 
26
of tobacco, beads, and cotton cloth, and presented the head chief and
interpreter with suitable presents of shirts and fancy colored handkerchiefs. About sunset, finding that the talking, smoking, and feeding was over, and realizing the certainty-of procuring no more presents
to-day, the Indians shook hands with us and went off.  Such of them
as had horses rode them bare back, but the bulk of the warriors were
footmen.
November 16.-Left the Maricopa station, on our way to Tucson,
with three coaches, forty-nine animals, and twelve men. To-day met
the mail of October 24 fi-om San Antonio.
November 17. Reached Tucson at 11I p. m. Found train from La
3Iesilla waiting for the mail.
November 19.-Started from Tucson with three coaches, forty-six
animals, and sixteen men, including our passengers. I also had in
charge the mail of November 9 from San Diego, for which I had
waited at our Maricopa station. I was now retracing my steps to La
Mesilla, through the same country I had passed over in August, and,
with a few unimportant variations, by nearly the same road.  Then
it was the rainy season, with showers almost every day; now it was
the commencement of winter, with occasional northers. On both trips
I found the gramma grass excellent in quality and abundant in quantity. There is plenty of water for our purposes, with wood enough
for cooking, and comfortable sleeping on the ground in our blankets.
November 24.-I met Mr. Hutton at Ojo La Vaca; he is engineer
of the E1 Paso and Fort Yuma wagon road expedition, and was examining the country very carefully to select the best line for a road,
and was progressing finely.
November 25.-Met the mail coach going west with the mail of November 9, from San Antonio; also passed to-day the working party of
Colonel Leach's expedition, who were building a road up the canion
from the valley of the Rio Grande to the top of the Mesa.
NVovember 26.-Reached Mesilla at 10 a. m., and immediately despatched the mail for San Diego by a messenger in waiting to carry it
to Buchanan, one hundred miles below the Mesilla, where the train
was waiting to carry it on to San Antonio. AVe have stocked this
one hundred miles along the Rio Grande valley chiefly with horses;
when we have a light mail we can express it through. I remained
in the valley of the Rio Grande, passing to and fro in the course of
business, from November 26 until December 24.
During my absence in California, Mr. Giddings had done every
thing possible for the line; I must say he could not have done more
if he had been an owner. Furthermore, I am satisfied that few men
could have done so well for us. At his agency in E1 Paso he came
in contact with the mail men, who were running from San Antonio to
that place, and did much to place things in order which had been
neglected at San Antonio.  On leaving Mr. Giddings I had promised
him, upon the faith of the understanding that Mr. Birch was to meet
me at San Diego, that I would bring back with me the cash necessary
to pay up all claims against the line; but, as before explained, Mr.
Birch did not meet me, I could not reach the supplies of money required, and was consequently compelled to return to the Rio Grande
empty handed, relying on selling my drafts to cancel large amounts 
27
due to creditors in the valley. When I crossed the Rio Grande
going west, on the 23d of August, I had twenty-four mule and two
poor carriages; fourteen of these twenty-four animals belonged to
Fort Davis.-(See journal, August 12.)  When I recrossed the same
river, November 27, coming east, I had left behind me quite a different state of things.
The mail line had now nearly or quite two hundred head of mules
west of the Rio Grande, stationed at San Diego, Carissa creek, Fort
Yuma, Peterman's, Maricopa wells, Tucson, and La Mesilla.  At
each of these places agencies or stations had been established, with
abundant supplies of grain everywhere. We feed corn to all our working mules. I had made contracts for hay wherever the grass was
likely to be short the coming winter. We had thirty-five mail carriers and agents along this part of the line; all well-armed bordermen, carefully selected for their familiarity with this kind of service.
We had seven coaches on the road, and three more building in San
Diego, so that we could already take passengers through from ocean
to ocean in stage coaches. I felt that I had carried out in spirit the
agreement with your department to place a creditable service on the
line, besides having complied with the letter of the contract in carrying the mail.
I was met here in the valley by unexpected difficulties, which should
not have been thrown in the way of the line.
The following advertisement was put in the San Antonio papers
and came to El Paso about the time of my arrival:
Whereas Julia A. B. Birch, of Swansea, in the county of Bristol
and Commonwealth of Massachusetts, administratrix of the estate of
James E. Birch, of the town and Commonwealth aforesaid, has sold,
assigned, transferred, conveyed, and set over unto Oltes H. Kelton,
of Charleston, South Carolina, for a good and sufficient consideration,
all the stock of the mail lines and post routes from San Antonio,
Texas, to San Diego, California, and from El Paso to Santa Fe, in
Texas, so far as the said James E. Birch, deceased, has any interest
in the same; and whereas the said Oltes H. Kelton has appointed the
undersigned his agent and attorney, by power of attorney duly acknowledged, to take charge of and superintend his entire interest in
said routes, as his sole agent: sow, this is to notify all whom it may
concern, that all contracts and acts made by any person otherwise
than those that I may appoint, touching the interest of said routes,
ABNER BARROWS.
[Mr. Giddings also received a letter from Mr. Barrows, stating that
Mr. Kelton had appointed him as sole agent in Texas, at the same
time requesting Mr. G. to continue in charge of the line at El Paso,
sending the mail forward to California as he had been doing under my
superintendence. This was an awkward dilemma. It seemed clear
to myself and friends that if I gave up my situation of superintendent
the line must stop. If I once discarded the charge, the property
would be seized by the creditors. Wages were due to the men, and
accounts had been made with merchants for advances of every kind. 
28
A line through remote settlements must have a good credit. In this
aspect of things, having received no letters from Mrs. Birch nor any
of her friends, and no revocation of my authority having reached me,
I applied to Simeon Hart, esq., of E1 Paso, to advance me the necessary funds to carry on the line until I could reach New York. I exhibited to Mr. Hart my original authority from Mr. Birch, together
with all the subsequent facts since his death, so far as I knew them.
I consider that we are indebted to Mr. Hart for the present existence
of the line. He went in person to the different merchants whom we
owed for advances, recommended them to take my drafts on New
York, stating that he had examined the matter and was perfectly satisfied. Mr. Hart himself did more: he loaned the line ten thousand
dollars, which enabled me to not only pay up the more pressing claims
of the mens' wages, but all the outstanding obligations of the line,
excepting the drafts before referred to on New York, and the
amount due to Mr. Giddings. When I turned my back on the Rio
Grande valley, the credit of the line stood well.  I felt satisfied that I
had done right; I am now more than satisfied.]
El Paso, December 24.- The mail of December 9 came in from San
Diego at 10 a. m.
Presido, San Eleazario, December 25.-Mail from San Antonio came
in at I a. m. I reached our lower station on the Rio Gran(le, a new
place which we have named Birchville, at 8 p. m.; I was en route for
San Antonio.  Here I found that the up mail of December 9 had been
caught in a snow storm west of Fort Davis. Five mules had been
chilled so they were unable to go on with the train. The conductor
was compelled to leave the coach and nearly all the mules at Fort
Davis, coming on to Birchville with six mules only, bringing the
letter mail. He was most fortunate in being able to borrow a buggy
for this purpose. The conductor who brought up this mail of December 9 should have returned at once to San Antonio with the down
mail; but as he was unable to do so for the reason which I have stated,
I carried out an intention which I had formed at E1 Paso, and determined to take the mail through to San Antonio under my own charge.
I had a coach and twenty-two mules, and four passengers. To perform the actual labor of this trip, I had two clerks of mine now
out of employ by my discharge. Mr. Giddings accompanied me, with
two hired men.
December 26.-Birchville, at 10 a. m., weather very pleasant.
December 27.-In our second drive this morning we ascended the
caion leading from the valley of the Rio Grande to the high table
lands of this portion of western Texas. We found a change of
climate apparent at once.  The whole of our journey, from the summit of this pass till we reached Devil's river, in the course of which
we had descended from this table land, was cold and uncomfortable,
though by no means to the extent of any personal suffering; I
may except very cold fingers, while driving, before sunrise.
December 29.-To-day we reached Fort Davis.  The officers' quarters, with good oak wood fires, looked more comfortable than our
camping on ground; but, for fear of catching cold by the change,
I preferred to continue sleeping out of doors.-(See journal of August
12 for my interview with Col. Sewall.) 
29
December 30.-Met an extra of ours going up to Birchville-coach,
mules, and complete outfit to take their place in the line. Gave orders
for the conductor to take the newspaper mail from Fort Davis, which
had been left behind by the last up mail in consequence of the snow
at Birchville.  He would meet another coach and,end it forward to
E1 Paso.
January 3.-We reached Fort Lancaster at 7 a. m., changed our
mail, and started again at 11 a. m. It commenced snowing as we left
Fort Lancaster, and continued to snow so rapidly that I deemed it
prudent to stop about 3 o'clock p. m.  We halted in a canon 9 miles
from the fort, on the edge of the Llano Estacado. It was not safe to
attempt to cross this bleak plain in the face of a snow storm, with the
road obliterated by the snows. We might have lost our way, or our
mules might have perished from being chilled through by standing
exposed, after heating themselves in the exertion of hauling the coach.
I therefore made a halt and camped for the night. We then drove the
mules into a canon, where they would be partially sheltered from the
wind and storm by bushes, made a fire, cooked our dinner, set the
guard, and then went to bed, with the snow falling at intervals all
night long.
January 4.-A fine morning, with the sun bright and pleasant,
the ground covered with snow to the depth of several inches, rendering it almost impossible to roll our coach to-day. The snow would
have clung to the hoofs of our mules and to the tire of our coach so
as to render our progress very slow. Under these circumstances I
deemed it best to send the mail forward on mules in charge of one of
the two hired men, accompanied by a passenger equally familiar with
the road, who very kindly volunteered to accompany the mail and
rider. They each took a riding mule, also a third mule packed with
the mail, provisions, and a few small articles. These animals they
were to change at Fort Clarke, with yet another change, if possible,
at Dhannis.  (They made the trip to San Antonio in good order and
in time, delivering the mail at 6 a. m. the morning of the 9th.) This
morning, after the mail was gone, I sent our mules back to Fort Lancaster with directions to have them well fed with grain, returning
them to our camp by night with an additional supply of grain and
provisions if the snow melted so that we could proceed. In the course
of the afternoon, the weather looking threatening, I sent one of my
clerks, who volunteered to go on foot, to the quartermaster with a
request that he would send out a team of mules and haul us back to
the fort; this request he promptly acceded to, and we reached there
about 10 o'clock at night. Having despatched the mail, there was
now no cause for our immediate haste; I, therefore, determined to
recruit my animals at Fort Lancaster before continuing our journey.
With this view I remained there for three days.
January 7.-This morning we left Fort Lancaster the second time.
We had for company a party under escort to Fort Hudson. This
evening we met the mail coach which left San Antonio December 24.
It had been detained several days by high water in the Medina river
at Castroville, being afterwards caught in the same snow storm that
had delayed our coach; like us they were compelled to lie by and wait
a day or two for the snow to disappear. As they had but com 
30
menced their journey to Birchville, they could not send their mail
forward on pack animals as we did. Again, as the up mail contains
newspapers it is much heavier than the down mail.
Nothing of special interest occurred on the road to San Antonio
differing from the usual routine which I have sketched from day to
day. I staid at Fort Hudson and at Fort Clarke long enough to attend
to the business of the line at each of those posts. I did this in the
absence of any one to take my place, though I was yet in doubt as to
my own position.
Janutary 17.-Reached San Antonio to night.
January 18.-Received to-day a revocation of my authority from
S3Irs. Birch, the revocation dated the 26th of last October; I ceased at
once to act for the line and prepared to come north, giving the new
local agent every information the limited time permitted.
January 19.-I left for Washington.
The question is frequently asked as to whether we have a well defined road all the way from San Antonio to San Diego. To this I
answer that it is as plain a road as any stage route over which a mail
is carried in coaches for your department.  An emigrant would find
it as impossible to miss his way when once on our road either going
to or returning from California, as he would if traveling in a country
where guide posts marked every cross-road.
An examination of my table of distances will show four military
posts between San Antonio and Birchville; from Birchville to La
Mesilla we have a settled country all the way; from La Mesilla to
Tucson, we have not at present any military posts, but I am informed
that the War Department contemplate placing two forts in this portion of Arizona, immediately on the completion of the Fort Yuma
and El Paso wagon road. In the whole distance of 460 miles from
Tucson to San Diego, one hundred and fifteen miles is the longest
distance at present between any of our mail stations.
An emigrant passing over our route will meet or be overtaken by a
mail party four times every month, while from our mail conductors
he can always obtain the reliable information as to road, wood, water,
grass, camping places, with directions where to find safe valleys in
which to feed his stock for a few weeks, and transmit messages, letters,
or any desired intelligence from friends before or behind him. I lhave
received many expressions of satisfaction from emigrants I met on
the road, and, also, from others in California, who,  last season, on
the trip, realized, in a small way, the advantages of the mail, in
these respects to overland emigration.
When camping, after a drive of about ten miles, we unharness in
the middle of the road, and from one end of our route to the other,
from San Antonio to San Diego, the road can almost be measured by
the ashes of our camp fires.
From Fort Hudson, in Texas, to Tazotal, on the Gila, a distance of
1,200 miles, nearly the whole of our route is over an elevated, dry
country. When but a small amount of labor was requisite at first to
make a road suited to staging, only a portion of this has ever had any
labor bestowed on it beyond that of passing trains. From San Antonio to El Paso, a distance of 651 miles, the road was opened in the
year 1849, by a government train of several hundred wagons, en
'k 
31
route to E1 Paso; since that time, the continual passage of government and freighting trains, as also of the Santa Fe and San Antonio
mail coaches, had beaten down an excellent road, before the labors of
the E1 Paso and Fort Yuma wagon road expedition commenced.
That portion of our route situated between E1 Paso and the Pimos
villages has never had even a government train to open it. Col. Leach's
labors will be of great service in straitening it, finding new watering
places, enlarging others, and in constructing tanks, if the appropriation will admit of such an expenditure. A consultation of the items
of my own journey, where I have put down each day's advance, will
tend to show the excellent condition of our roads, for we used a coach
all the waty from San Antonio to San Diego, sometimes drawn by six,
never by less than four mules.
There are a number of formidable looking ranges of mountains
upon all the maps, running across Arizona, north and south, which
look to be barriers almost impassable without a great expenditure
of time and money.  Our road we found to be through, rather than
over, these mountains;  although they appeared formidable at a
distance, yet, on approaching, they generally proved to be isolated
buttes, with our road winding around them by easy grades through
the valleys, or else passing over some low span or saddle, no way impeding staging. These passes in the mountains seemed to be formed
by nature on purpose for a road.   The speed our coaches are making
through these mountain ranges is the best evidence of their easy and
expeditious passage.   By my journal of August 25, it will be
noticed that the speed we made from Cook's spring, through the Sierra
Madre mountains to and beyond the Mimbres river, was 21 miles in
five hours; through all the other mountain passes we made much the
same rate of speed.
Having formed my ideas of mountains and mountain roads from a
pretty extensive experience among the Sierra Nevada of California,
I was very forcibly struck by the tact of not meeting a regular chain of
mountains all the way from San Antonio until I reached the coast
range of California, eighty miles from San Diego. I wish to call particular attention to the distinction between ranges of mountains like
the Alleghanies and Sierra Nevada, and the system of isolated buttes
scattered over portions of our line and around which we pass by
valley roads well adapted to speed. The mountains south of the
Gila, and its immediate neighborhood, do not interfere with our road;
they come up close to the river in many places, but leave an ample
passage way for our road around the bases. These mountains are mostly
what the Mexicans term Mesas; high hills, fiat on their tops.  It appears as if the plain had formerly been level with the tops of the
hills, some hundreds of feet higher than it is now. This same appearance of Mesas is found along the Pecos.
On the 15th of November, looking northward from our station at
the Maricopa Wells, I could plainly see that the high mountains to the
north of the Gila, standing in a bold relief against the sky, were cov ered at their summits with a cap of snow, glistening in the pleasant
sun of the valley, where we were. Abundance of rain had fallen
throughout the Gila valley this season, but no cold weather had come 
32
as yet; we naturally concluded that the rain of the valley was snow
on the tops of the mountains. In the day time we found it so pleasant
that bathing was our constant practice, though the nights were cool
and damp from heavy dews. I am informed that all or most of these
valleys north of the Gila have a rich soil, capable, of sus taining a large population. I trust, on some future trip, to be able to
explore them, as they are situated within what is likely to become
a portion of the new Territory of Arizona, through the whole length
of which our line passes. It was among some of the valleys to which
I refer, that John R. Bartlett, esq., found evidences of a race of men
long since extinct, who must have been superior to the present Indians
of the country.
At present we have no good road directly over the coast range of
mountains from Lassator's ranch to Vallecito on the desert, but the
enterprise of the people of San Diego will secure us one at an early
day. When I came over the mountains on my way east, there was a
large working party of Indians, under Mr. Lassator, diligently using
the means which had been subscribed in the county for a road over
the mountains.
Wood, water, and grass, are the emigrants necessities in crossing
our continent. Over our route we have enough of these for all purposes of staging or emigration. Through the country over which we
pass, though there is enough water for emigration and staging, yet
there is but one river not usually fordable; I refer to the Colorado of
the West. This is a great deal in its favor as a stage road. If it
were a heavy timbered country, it would not be likely to be so well
grassed, as it would be sure to have large rivers troublesome to cross,
and need an immense labor cutting down timber to open a road. As to
grass, it is wonderfully provided all the way to our Maricopa station.
Wood is generally scarce on our route. From San Antonio to
San Felipe creek, a distance of one hundred and fifty miles, there is
an abundance of wooded country; post oaks and mezquit flats are
quite numerous. Along Devil's river, for a distance of twenty miles,
there is plenty of wood.
At Forts Lancaster and Davis, oak wood is hauled from a distance
of seven miles to supply the military posts. Along the Rio Grande
universally the fuel is the root of the mezquit tree, a sort of underground forest; it burns with as hot a fire as hickory wood, and makes
superior charcoal.  Cotton-wood is used along the Rio Grande valley,
being the fuel used in some places. We found wood scarce all the
way from the Rio Grande to the Maricopas; from thence to Fort Yuma
along the Gila abundant;  then it is scarce over the desert; at
thewatering places, however, enough can be found in spots not remote
from the wells; once among the San Diego mountains there is wood
enough. Over these portions of our road where we find no wood at
the springs or watering holes, and for want of time cannot wander off
among the mountain gulches to look for it, we secure enough for all
purposes of cooking from the great abundance of roots generally found
just cropping out of the ground; these make an excellent fire.
An examination of my table of distances will show no want of water
along the route; all my measurements are to and from well known 
watering places.   From San Antonio our road is extremely well
watered until we reach the head of the San Pedro or Devil's river, a
distance of 218 miles; going west thence, we have a jornada of fortyfour miles; thence another of thirty miles, between permanent roads,
on to the Pecos.  In the rainy season there are plenty of places in this
distance where the water stands in natural tanks in the rocks, or in
canons.  This stretch of forty-fout miles is the longest we have on the
road between permanent water stations; it forms however no great
obstacle to staging.  We haul water for ourselves in kegs, and the
mules, having to go about twelve to sixteen hours without it, do not
suffer in consequence. We have no scarcity of water in Arizona for
our present purposes.-(See schedule of distances.) Our watering
places on the desert west of Fort Yuma are by no means far apart,
but the supply is limited at all times. It will be a matter of absolute
necessity to enlarge them before the overland emigration of this spring
reaches the desert. The improvement of those now used, as well as
the digging of others, will be very easily accomplished.
I am of opinion that the chances of procuring water by boring
artesian wells on the elevated table lands, over which our road runs,
may be considered as very limited. At any rate, as a practical mode
of procuring water for us, it will not do. Supposing Captain Pope
should demonstrate the feasibility of boring these artesian wells, even
then private individuals cannot afford to make them, neither can they
wait for government to do so. We should be compelled, in staging
across the continent at a rate of speed necessitating the erection of
stations, to adopt the old Mexican method of building tanks wherever
the  natural formation of the country admits of it which it does in
numerous places along our road.
As for grass, the country through which our road runs is unequalled
as a grazing country, in the opinion of practiced men acquainted with
the subject. I have heard farmers pronounce the gramma and mezquit.
grass nearly equal to clover. There is a peculiarity of the grass of
this section which adapts it most admirably to our purpose; when appearing dried up and dead, it contains life and nutriment; an examination will show this on plucking it. When the rains come, instead
of our having to wait wholly for new grass to spring up, we find the
old dried grass renewing its life, becoming green again, until in a few
days the country is covered with an excellent crop of grass, as good
as if it had been growing many weeks.
Many of the finest ranches or grazing farms in the State of Sonora
were once located in what is now called Arizona; the buildings are at
present deserted; the inhabitants have fled from the Apaches, who
stole their cattle, as far as possible destroyed.the buildings, and murdered or carried into captivity the inhabitants.
The' section of the country along the Gila river is commonly pronounced by emigrants the worst portion of the whole southern road
across our continent; but even along this river, though it is not
superabundantly supplied with grazing lands, no one need let their
animals suffer for the want of food. Travellers must take some care
in examining to the right and left of the road. To those who have
just been passing over the finest grazing lands in the world, where a
3
;3 3 
34
range of a few hundred yards w6outld suffice for their teams anywhere
along the road, the Gila naturally seems a desert. As a fair illustration of the grazing in Arizona, I would state that an overheated
horse or mule will actually founder on the rich gramma grass as he
would on clover. On nearly all the hills found along the Gila river
spots of gramma and quinta or bunch grass are scattered in places.
Young willows also grow along the river banks, which are good food
for animals. A weed much liked by them and very nutritious is
found in many places along the b)ottoms. Mules are also fond of the
fallen leaves of the mezquit tree. By crossing the river and making
a little exploration, spots of good grazing can be found on the north
side of the Gila. Lastly, there is in the season an abundant supply
of excellent food for animals in the mezquit beans which are found on
our road along the Gila, from Tezotal to Fort Yuma. These beans
fall from the tree as soon as ripe; animals will [leave their corn to
eat them, as I have proved.
The Indians make a kind of flour from these beans by roasting and
then pounding them;  they contain a large portion of saccharine
matter, so much so that the Pimos manufacture from them a species
of syrup.   They commence  falling in August;  we found a great
many under the trees in November  after the emigration had passed
down the river.                      7
On my return trip fronim San Diego I brought my mnules into our
3Maricopa station in a much better condition than when I left Fort
Yuma with them. My practice was this: while one of my two teams
of mules was working in the coaches for a couple of hours at a walk,
I would have the other team under charge of an experienced man,
either ahead or behind the coaches, eating their fill of grass, beans,
or whatever they could find. At the end of two hours we would
change teams, giving the other set-of mules their chance for loitering
behind to eat.
Sometimes emigrants who are going to California pasture their
cattle on the bottom lands of the Colorado river for a few weeks before
attempting to cross the desert; others again put on at once, in order
to reach as soon as possible the excellent grazing on the coast range.
We keep a mulada at Fort Yuma for our changes, which we send out
every day to feed in the river bottom, under charge of a Mlexican
herder, bringing them in at night for safebty.
In crossing the Colorado desert of ninety-five miles from Fort Yuma
to Carissa there is but little for animals to eat. In some few places
arroyos make up to the northward, containing mezquit trees full of
beans, but these are limited in number, while they are not situated at
the watering places.
In the mountains near Carissa, or at Vallecito, good grazing commences again. I am assured by men familiar with this section of
country that good hay can be cut on the mountain sides, a few miles
south of the present desert, and hauled on to the line of our road at a
fair price. Mezquit beans can also be procured sufficiently near the
road to be sold to travellers at reasonable rates. One advantage of our 
35
road is, that any emigrant who may be en route to California can now
leave his stock in Arizona to recruit, while he takes passage for San
Diego or along the road to explore for himself the country over which
he intends to pass.
The country we stage over is a grazing and mineral country, rather
than an agricultural one, though I found no lack of grain along the
road. In seasons of rain an abundance of grain is raised all the way
from San Antonio to Fort Clarke; from there to Birchville there are
no settlements, and the grain has to be hauled from either end to the
military posts between these two points; along the Rio Grande
the whole country is capable of cultivation. Wheat, corn, beans,
pumpkins, and onions of very superior flavor are all raised in great
abundance by the Spanish population.
Flour of an excellent quality is made at a m;ll on the Rio Grande,
a couple of miles above El Paso; it is owned and managed by Simeon
Hart, esq., who is the contractor for supplying with flour all the forts
in that section of the country.
In many places along the Rio Grande our road lies through cornfields miles in length. At Tucson we found no difficulty in purchasing corn and barley for our mules; flour from wheat grown
in the Santa Cruz valley, and ground at Tucson by the Mexicans;
also beans and onions.
At Maricopa station we bought, of the Indians, flour, beans, peas,
green and dried pumpkins, chickens, eggs, corn, and wheat. At Fort
Yuma everything has to be imported. There is a considerable importation there of flour, pinola, pounded parched corn, jerked beef, and
sugar, called pinoche, all of which comes on pack animals from Sonora;
no doubt a large trade will spring up from this when Colorado City
becomes of consequence. Nearly everything is now brought from
San Francisco by way of the Gulf of California and steamer up the
Colorado river.
Arizona ought to be supplied through Guyamas, a Mexican port
on the Gulf of California.
Ours is emphatically a stage road. If it were a rich agricultural
country all the way from San Antonio to San Diego, it would be impossible for a stage line to cross it in schedule time until some remote
day, when the whole distance shall have been settled, and towns built
at convenient distances, with good roads connecting them. Our present
road would be called a superior one in any State for thirteen hundred
miles of its length, and a fair road the remainder of the distance, save
twenty-two miles of sand in the Colorado desert, from Cook's Wells
to Alamo Mucho.
In the valley of the Rio Grande I had an application from an old
mountain man, who wanted a situation as guide. This man had
trapped beaver in all the principal streams falling into the Gila
and Colorado rivers. He said the trappers pronounced our present
route across Arizona a good one at all seasons of the year.
I had a good opportunity of knowing the nature of the climate wit
have to contend with. Leaving San Antonio in August, and go ee
directly through, I passed over the road in the hottest months gof hn
year. Then, leaving San Diego October 23, and spending nearly
three months returning, I experienced the winter weather over the 
36
same country.  It was very warm in San Antonio in July; but when
we had once commenced ascending to the table lands of Texas, the
heat became comparatively moderated, with nights particularly pleasant. In going down the Gila, where we were descending toward the
level of the sea, the heat was very great, so much so that, for comfort, and having a full moon, we travelled by night and lay by during
the middle of the day. In my experience of the heat on the Gila,
which looks so formidable, as marked by the thermometer, I suffered
much less with that instrument indicating a hundred and over
than I have suffered in the Atlantic States with the thermometer at
85 or 90. The air was pure and clear, the heat produced a copious
perspiration, and gave no feeling of oppression in breathing.
In my plans for returning across the continent, the recollection of
the hot days along the Gila, or on the Colorado desert, never present
themselves to me as any serious inconvenience. The heat does not
oppress animals any more than it does men. Our mail carriers, who
regularly cross the desert, frequently complain of the blinding influence of the sun reflected in their eyes from the bright sands; I never
heard any of them complain of unpleasant effects from the heat, and
we have a number of men employed who have traversed this-desert for
several years past. In returning to San Antonio, through Arizona and
Texas, I experienced the northers a number of times, having been
delayed once by snow; but none of our party ever suffered anything
more than the natural annoyances incidental to wet feet and damp
blankets. I make here some few extracts from my journal about the
cold I experienced on our route:
December 5.-At El Paso have had a week of cold weather, with an
occasional strong north wind during the time. Ice formed in a pond 100
feet across in the rear of the house; ice also made in the acequias, but
the river was barely skimmed over once very early in the morning.
Only once in a great many years, in El Paso, has the ice been thick
enough to put up a few tons in an ice house.
December 9.-The mail coach came into El Paso from Tucson, and
the conductor reported a norther, accompanied by sniOW, in the Mimbres. It fell on them the same day we had a norther at El Paso, the
5th, as above; the snow melted as it fell, so that by making a longer
morning drive than common he reached the shelter of the trees at the
Mimbres; none of his mules were chilled by being exposed without
blankets, after unharnessing. The same conductor reports a snow
squall on the previous trip, without any detention in either case to
the mail, and without the snow lying on the ground at all; it melted
as it fell both times.
A letter per this mail from our train going west reports the
weather cold enough in the night to freeze water in the canteens, but
no one suffering from cold by sleeping on the ground. During the
day it was bright and warm, forming a pleasant contrast to the night.
At El Paso, December 9, we received advices of the northern wagon
road expedition having returned fbr the winter. I consulted Colonel
Leach, superintendent of the El Paso and Fort Yuma wagon road as
to his movements; he assured me he had no intention of going into
winter quarters, but, on the contrary, should continue on the road 
37
through the winter months; in fact, he deemed them the best suited
to his purposes of shortening and improving the road.
The surgeon of Fort Lancaster, who keeps a meteorological journal,
said they had not as much snow in that part of Texas during the
whole of the past six years taken together as had fallen during the
present winter. The snow which fell on the 3d had so far disappeared
from the ground as to allow the animals to graze sufficiently, but I
waited in order to accompany a detachment of mounted infantry going
on a scout as far as Fort Hudson.
January 6.-The snow had entirely disappeared.
January 7.-We  camped to-night on the Llano Estacado, about
half way across it; there was not a particle of snow on the ground.
We found one advantage from the snow, it had melted and run into a
natural stone tank, giving us abundance of water for ourselves and
stock; it will last some weeks.  An expense of a few hundred dollars
in building up the sides of the tank would make it capable of holding
several millions of gallons of water.
The Llano Estacado is here very narrow; we cross the extreme
southern portion of it immediately south of us. Not a mile distant, I
saw the caions and broken gulches running eastward to the Devil's
river, and westward to the Pecos.
I never had a case of sickness among either men or passengers
during my whole trip, excepting a little annoyance from an over in dulgence in fruit in the valley of the Rio Grande. The salubrious
air must be conducive to health. Such is the purity and clearness of
the atmosphere that the stars shine at night with a brilliancy un known in this section of the country; cloudy days or nights are an
exception, and the stars at night actually give light enough to enable
us on our night drives, of which we have a considerable number, to
find the road. It can be seen, for some distance ahead of the mules,
very plainly.
Clitmatic boundary on the west.
October 24.-The coast range of mountains, which approaches the
sea in San Diego county, is the climatic boundary between California
and Arizona.  Our stock is kept at Lassator's, 48 miles, nearly due
west, from San Diego, in a beautiful valley among the mountains;
in San Diego they have a charming climate the year round, while
among the mountains snow falls occasionally during the winter,
which in the valley below turns to rain, The snow remains on the
ground but a day or two. In California there is no rain from March
until October, but showers occasionally fall in these valleys during
the summer months, when it is the rainy season in Sonora.
The exploring party I sent over the mountain on the 15th of September were rained on all one night. We saw clouds to the westward,
but not one drop of rain feel upon us.
By reference to my journal it will be noticed that rain fell on us at
intervals all the way from the opening of the Rio Grande valley
until I came near to Fort Yuma. While the coast along the Pacific
was, in September and October, parched with a drought, compelling
—,-I 6 
38
rancheros to send their cattle into the mountains; our contractor was
cutting hay to send over to our station on the desert.  Lassator's is
twelve miles from the top of the coast range, which we there descend
by a mule path for several miles on our way to Vallecito, though a
good road can be made with a moderate amount of money. After
crossing the desert, emigrants usually give their stock a run of the
excellent grazing valleys in these mountains, before proceeding further
on their journey.
It is hardly possible for me to do more than sketch a few of the
changes which our road has produced in the country through which
we pass.
The War Department uses the facilities offered by our line for a
regular semi-monthly correspondence with seven military posts.
Persons interested in mining pursuits are now looking with great
interest towards the silver and copper mines of Arizona. Our mail
not only carries the correspondence which takes the money to the
mining parties, but regularly bring reports of their success, while
passengers are, all the while, taking our line to Arizona; our stations
afford stopping places, and our agents information to all who prefer
their own mode of conveyance; such travellers are numerous.
The newly appointed consul for Guyamas takes our stage as far as
Tucson, starting from San Antonio, Texas.
Our line is already forming the basis of a new State, rich in minerals, half way between Texas and California.
Very respectfully
I. C. WOODS,
Sugerinteendent S  A. & S. D. Mail Line
Hon. A. V. BraOWN,
Postmaster General. 
39
Accompanying this please find the measurements from point to point
on the whole road from San Antonio to San Diego, with names of the
watering places.
Table of distances, and fron one watering-place to another from starting
point.
From San Antonio to) Leon river..........................
From Leon to Castroville, "Medina" river.............
From Castroville to Dharris "Saco" river...............
From Dharris to Ranchero creek............................
From Ranchero creek to Sabinal creek....................
From Sabinal creek to Camanche creek...................
From Camanche creek to Rio Frio.........................
From Rio Frio to Head of Leona "Uvalde "............
From Uvalde to Nueces.......................................
From Nueces to Turkey creek..............................
From Turkey creek to Elm creek...........................
From Elm creek to Las Moras river, Fort Clarke......
123.34
From Fort Clarke to Piedra Pinto......................... 
From Piedra Pinto to Maverick creek.....................
From Meverinck creek to San Felip     e......................
-From San Felipe to first crossing of San Pedro or
Devil's river...................................................
'From First Crossing to Painted Caves....................
From Painted Caves to California Spring................
From California Spring to Willow Spring..............
From Willow Spring to Fort Hudson, or second cross  ing of San Pedro or Devil's river..................
75.35
From Fort Hudson to Head of San Pedro or Devil's
river............................................................ 19.50
From Head of river to Howard Springs..................  44
From Howard Springs to Live Oak creek.......... 30.44
From Live Oak creek to Fort Lancaster.................. 3
4.2 9
6
32.26
16.26
8.58
19.40
8.88
11
32
18.86
From Fort Lancaster to Pecos...............................
From Pecos Crossing to Pecos Spring............ 
From Pecos Spring to Leaving of Pecos..................
From Leaving of Pecos to Arroyo Escondido.........
From Arroyo Escondido to Escondido Spring...........
From Escondido Spring to Camanche Spring...........
From Camanche Spring to Leon Hole......................
From Leon Hole to Hackberry pond.......................
From Hackberry pond to Limpia creek..................
From Limpia creek to Fort Davis........................ 8
-a   157.53
From Fort Davis to Point of Rocks.........................
From Point of Rocks to Barree Springs.............4
From Barree Springs to Deadman's Hole................
6.53
18
25.28
8.38
3.94
5
8.46
6.08
9.04
10.27
1.0'. 2 3
7.13
7
8.86
12.61
10.22
12.54
15.73
2
16.39
96.94
10
8.42
13.58
I,
..::I -. 
40
From Deadmnan's Hole to Van Horn's Wells........... 32.83
From Van Horn's Wells to Eagle Springs.............. 19.74
From Eagle Springs to first camp on Rio Grande...... 31.42
From first camp on Rio Grande to Birchville............35
From Birchville to San Eleazario.......................... 24.80
From San Eleazario to Socorro..............................  5.45
From Socorro to Is]etta........................................  3.10
From Isletta to El Paso...................................... 14.14
From El Paso to Cottonwood................................ 22
From Cottonwood to Fort Fillmore........................ 22
From Fort Fillmore to La Mesilla......................... 6
From La MIesilla to Cook's Spring.......................... 65
From Cook's Spring to Rio Mimbres...................... 18
From Rio Mimbres to Ojo La Vaca........................ 17
From Ojo La Vaca to Ojo de Ynez........................ 10
From Ojo de Ynez to Peloncilla...................... 34
From Peloncilla to Rio Saur or San Domingo........... 18
From Rio Saur to Apache Springs.....................  23
From Apache Springs to Dos Cabesas Springs..........  9
From Dos Cabesas Springs to Dragon Springs........ 26
From Dragon Springs to mouth of Quercos canon.....18
From mouth of Quercos canon to San Pedro crossing   6
From San Pedro to Cienega.................................. 20
From Cienega to Cienega creek............................. 13
From Cienega creek to Mission San Xavier...............20
From Mission to Tucson.................................. 8
47.49
50
From Tucson to Pico Chico mountain......................
From Pico Chico to first camp on Gila....................
From first camp on Gila to Maricopa Wells..............
99
From Maricopa Wells to Tezotal, across Jornada.....
From Tezotal to Ten-mile camp...........................
From Ten-mile camp to Murderer's grave...............
From Murderer's grave to Oatman's Flat, 1st cross  ing of Gila...................................................
From Oatman's Flat to 2d crossing of Gila............
From 2d crossing of Gila to Peterman's station.......
From Peterman's station to Antelope Peak............
From Antelope Peak to Little Corral....................
From Little Coral to Fort Yuma..........................
190
From Fort Yuma to Pilot Knob...........................
From Pilot Knob to Cook's Wells........................
From Cook's Wells to Alamo Mucho...............94.
From Alamo Mucho to Indian Wells....................
From Indian Wells to Carissa creek......................
95.12
150.99
305
5
35
29
40
10
8
15
25
1 32
20
24
16
7
13
21.94
20.94
32.24
,.... 11,. I
.,, - I 
41
From Carissa creek to Vallecito........................... 
From Vallecito to Lassator's ranch.......................
From Lassator's ranch to Julian's ranch................
From Julian's ranch to Williams' ranch...............
From Williams' ranch to Ames' ranch..................
From Ames' ranch to Mission San Diego...............
From Mission to San Diego................................
18
18
7
7
14
16
5
Becapitulation.
123.34
75.35
96.94
157.53
150.99
47.49
651.64
50
305
99
190
95.12
85
1,475.76
El Paso to La Mesilla.................................
La Mesilla to Tucson...................................................
Tucson to M~aricopa........... 
Tucson to Maricopa........................................
Maricopa to Fort Yuma................................................
Fort Yuma to Carissa...............................9.1
Carissa to San Diego...................................................
Itinerary of my own journey across the continent.
August 1.-From San Antonio to Castroville................ 25
2.-From Castroville to 9 miles east of Uvalde... 46
3. —From camp to 11 miles west of Turkey creek 40
4.-From camp to near San Felipe creek..........40
5.-From camp to 10 miles east of Fort Hudson.. 35
6.-From camp to 10 miles west of San Pedro... 44
7.-From camp to 6 miles east of Live Oak creek 53
8.-From camp to 6 miles above Pecos spring.... 28
9.-From camp to Escondido creek, 8 miles east
of the spring.................................... 44
10.-From camp to 10 miles west of................. 46
11.-From camp to Lympia creek.....................33 
12.-From camp to Fort Davis........................19
13.-From Fort Davis to 7 miles west of Dead
Man's Hole.........................................42
14.-From camp to 8 miles west of Eagle Springs 51
15.-From camp to 10 miles south of Birchville... 49
16.-From camp to Socorro.............................40
17.-From Socorro to Franklin, El Paso............17
18,19, 20 21.-In E1 Paso.
22.-From E1 Paso to Fort Fillmore................44
23.-From Fort Fillmore to Picacho village, 6
miles west of Mesilla............................ 12
4
85
San A
Fort C
Fort
Fort L
Fort D
Birchv
miles.
CC
CC
c c
I c c
c c
9 c
c c
c c
CC,
CC
If 4
c c
c c
c c
c c
4 c
c c
c 
42
Aug.  24.-From  Picacho village to 9 miles east of
Cook's Spring....................... 50 miles.
25.-From camp to mouth of Burro Mount canon,
near Ojo de Ynez.................................55   "
26.-From camp to 9 miles east of River Saur..... 43
27.-From camp to 9 miles west of Dos Cabesas
Spring..........................................50   "
28.-From camp to ford of San Pedro river.........40 
29.-From camp to Mission San Xavier.............53'
30.-From Mission San Xavier to 30 miles west
of Tucson........................................... 38 
31.-From camp to 1-mile camp on Gila............ 40
Sept.   1.-From camp to Tezotal............................. 69
2,-From Tezotal to second crossing of Gila.... 58
3.-From second crossing to Antelope Peak..  52   "
4.-From Antelope Peak to Fort Yuma...........40   "
5.-From Fort Yuma to Alamo Mucho............42   "
6.-From Alamo Mucho to Carissa creek.........53
7. From Carissa creek to Lassator's...............36
8.-From Lassator's to San Diego...................49   c
1,476 miles.
Making the trip personally from San Antonio to San Diego in
thirty-eight days.
[From the San Antonio Herald.]
A few notes and distances from San Antonio to San Diego.
The following information in relation to the distances from this
place to San Diego, has been obtained from the superintendent of the
S. A. & S. D. Mail Stage Company, who has passed over the route
and back, and the statements as to distances and the nature of the
route may be implicitly relied on:
1. The distance from San Antonio to El Paso is 652 miles, and the
character of the route is so well known to most of our readers that
we deem it unnecessary to enter into any description of it. Grass and
water are considered sufficiently abundant. The road passes by a
number of the military posts, and though Indians are occasionally met
with, they have seldom made any hostile demonstrations, and have
never, but once, made an attack upon the train.
2. From El Paso to Messilla Valley in the Gadsden Purchase, the
route running up the east bank of the Rio Grande to Fort Fillmore,
(N. M.) where it crosses the river into the Messilla Valley, the distance is 50 miles.
3. From Messilla Valley to Tucson the distance is 305 miles. This
portion of the route is remarkably fine travelling, with good grass
and water. The streams on this section are the Mimbres and San
Pedro, both fordable, and usually crossed with but little trouble.
The Apache Indians are met with occasionally on this route, yet the
I 
43
mail party which here consists of eight men, has never been attacked
in making some thirty-two trips over the route.
4. From Tucson to Maricopa Wells, (Pimos Villages,) is 99 miles.
On this portion of the route the mail is carried by two men. Very
few Indians are seen, and they are harmless. The Maricopa Wells
are at the further end of a beautiful and fertile valley, occupied by the
Pimos Indians, who raise corn and other grain in considerable quantities.-(See Journal.) On this portion of the route, and indeed,
throughout the entire distance from San Antonio to San Diego, the
road is well defined, and is a finely beaten level track, withjust enough
gravel for the most part to make it pleasant travelling.
5. From Maricopa Wells down the river Gila to Fort Yuma is
190 miles. On this portion of the route the grass, though not abundant, is yet sufficient for the maintainance of trains anld herds.-(See
Journal.) Few Indians on the route, and they not dangerous. The
mail train between these points consists of three men. Fort Yuma is
situated on the west bank of the Great Colorado of the West, and just
opposite the junction of the Gila with that stream. There is a splendid large ferry-boat on the Colorado here, sufficient to cross a six-horse
stage. The river is about as large as the Ohio at Wheeling. This
portion of the road is travelled considerably by Californians who carry on
mining operations in the Gadsden Purchase. It is the opinion of all
who have seen that region that it possesses the finest silver mines in
the world, together with fine quantities of gold on the streams'north
of the Gila. These mines are now little known and but slightly valued, because of the proximity of the Indians, and their remoteness
from mining facilities.
6. From Fort Yuma to Carissa creek is 95 miles. This section
embraces the "great bugbear" known as the "' Great Colorado Desert." Between the two points there are three watering places on the
direct route, whilst there are others that may be reached by a slight
deflection. The mail party here consists of two men.
7. From Carissa creek to San Diego is 85 miles, its whole extent.
This is by a new route, and at present not open to wagons its whole
extent, but which, by a little work in the mountain passes, can be
made an excellent road. The mail is now carried over this new route.
The old route, over which the stages have to pass, is 125 miles. Over
this section the mail is carried by a single person. 
I