36THI CONGRESS, I  HOUSE OF REPRESENTATIVES. I Ex. Doc.
2d Session.                                         No. 44.
MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT BENTON TO FORT WALLAWALLA.
LETTER
FROM
THE SECRETARY OF WAR,
TRANSMITTING
The report of Lieutenant Mullan, in charge.of the construction of the
military road from Fort Benton to Fort Walla- Walla.
JANUARY 25, 1861. —Referred to the Committee on Naval Affairs, and ordered to be printed.
WAR DEPARTMENT, January 23, 1861.
SIR: I have the honor to transmit herewith a communication from
the officer in charge of the Office of Explorations and Surveys, accompanied by a copy of the paper called for in the resolution of the House
of Representatives of the 18th ultimo, by which the Secretary of War
is requested " to communicate to the House the reports of Lieutenant
John Mullan, United States army, of his operations in charge of the
wagon.road from Fort Benton to the Walla-Walla."
Very respectfully, your obedient servant,
J. HOLT, Secretary of War.
Hon. WILLIAM PENNINGTON,
Speaker of the House of Representatives.
WAR DEPARTMENT, OFFICE EXPLORATIONS AND SURVEYS,
Washington, Jamnuary 22, 1861.
SIR: I have the honor to submit herewith the reports of Lieutenant
John Mullan, United States army, upon his operations in charge of
the construction of the military road from Fort Benton to Fort WallaWalla, called for by a resolution of the House of Representatives of
December 18, 1860. The reports are numbered from I to XVI[; the
sub-reports, from assistants, are marked from A to T.
Very respectfiully, your obedient servant,
A. A. HUMPHREYS,
Captain Top'l Engineers, in charge.
Hon. J. HOLT, Secretary of War.




Transportation
2   Library      MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
I.
CAMP ON SNAKE RIVER, W. T.,
Opposite mouth of Toukanon, July 3, 1859.
SIR: I have delayed until the present date and place to give you
the details concerning my movements, in order that I might be enabled to let you know that we were well underway.
Arriving at the Dalles- on May 10, I organized by 25th, moving
into a temporary camp on the Five and Ten Miles creek, where we
remained until J une 8, when I took up a line of March for Fort WallaWalla, reaching that point on the 22d instant, where I tarried for a
few days for repairs, &c.
Here my escort joined me, it having gone forward, via the Columbia
river, to Fort Walla-Walla. This escort is composed of 100 men, 3d
artillery, under Lieutenant White, commanding, Lieutenants Howard
and Lyon.
We moved from Walla&Walla on the morning of the 25th of June.
I would state that on our way to Walla-Walla from the Dalles my
party worked and improved the road from day to day, facilitating thus
not only our own progress, but so materially improved the road-which,
in consequence of high water, had become much damaged at many
points —that future travel in the interior must reap its benefits. From
Fort Walla northward, both on account of wood, water, andfgrass,
and the general character of the country, I was led to locate the road
to the mouth of the Toukanon, (Fort Taylor of last year,) 3 miles
east of the mouth of the Pelouse. Private interests have been at work
to induce me to locate more to the west, in order that ferries, &c.,
now established on the river, might be availed of, but looking!to an
eastern connexion and the favorable character of the country, and
excellent wood, grass, and water; and at short intervals this location
has every advantage, whereas the one by the Pelouse crossing involves
a 26 miles' march without water or wood.
Moving, then, on the 25th for the mouth of the Toukanon, our work
began. We crossed the dry creek, repairing here a bridge and establishing a camp; marked it by a post buried three feet in the ground,
and marked this M. R., (military road,) 9 miles.
Moving still northward across the Touchet, improving and working the road from point to point, we encamped upon its banks for two
days, and threw over it a strong, substantial bridge, built of the only
timber at hand, viz: the cottonwood. This stream is difficult at high
water. But selecting a suitable spot we constructed a bridge with
three spans that is five feet above the high water mark. Moving still
northward, we worked the road along the Reed creek, encamping at
its head.
Moving still northward with an advanced working party, we improved
and worked the road along the Toukanon to its mouth, crossing it
three miles from its mouth. The distance then from old Fort WallaWalla to this point is 78- miles, and from the new fort 49 miles,
reaching this point on the 28th ultimo. I have been much delayed and
annoyed at this point in crossing the Snake river. The river is fright



BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                 3
fully swollen in consequence of the great freshet of this year; and it
has been with the most extreme difficulty that we to-day effected the
crossing of our last load. The animals feared taking the water, and
had to swim by being led across, involving much time, labor, and risk;
but to-day I am happy to state we completed the crossing, involving
five days. We move at daybreak in the morning still northward for
the Pelouse; 14 miles from its mouth hence I will follow it for, say,
eight or ten miles, when I think the valley of the Schmokah creek
will afford me the best location; my probable course will then be up
its valley to a convenient and suitable point to turn northeasterly for
the Pyramid Butte, whence my line will be for the southern edge of
the Cceur d'Alene lake, whence, or earlier, I will again write you,
giving you the results of our progress and our then next section of
our line.
My advanced party has been ahead for the last three days working a
section of five miles of our line hence to the Pelouse. It is now
finished, and will offer no difficulty to our progress for the present.
This involved some difficulty owing to the want of water, but by
packing the water to the working parties all has gone well.
I regret to report the loss of one of Lieutenant White's men by
drowning while crossing the Snake river. He had been above the
camp for wood, which he floated down the stream in the form of a
raft; being upon which, the current, which is at the rate of five
or six miles per hour, carried him so far below that, jumping off it, it
was impossible to save him.
With the exception of the loss of some of our animals by drowning,
all else has gone well.
While organizing at the Dalles, in order that my party should be
employed as industriously as possible, and in order that an equivalent might be returned by the different members of the party, I sent
small parties as follows:
A party under Mr. Kollecki to Fort Walla-Walla, with all the
astronomical instruments, chronometers, &c., where they remained a
month; established an observatory by the assistance of Captain Kirkham, who has uniformly co-operated with me.
Here they had excellent weather, and, putting up their transit, have
obtained not less than from three to four hundred sets of data, the
exact determinations of this point.
Thus is fixed a good initial point. The different sets for longitude
are not yet worked up, and only for latitude approximately; but as
leisure is afforded, they will be put under way and completed in the
field if possible. In addition to gaining this desideratum, much
attention was given to the meteorology of the place, the different mountain peaks measured, and much topographical information gained.
I express my thanks to Mr. Kollecki and Mr. Weisner, under whose
general charge this has been done.
A small party under Mr. Conway R. Howard moved from the Dalles,
taking the trail via the Columbia river, and have been very successful
in running a line of level to old Walla-Walla  But on reaching that
point, in adjusting their level one of the screws became broken, and it
has involved sending it to the Dalles for repairs, thus making a delay




4                MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
of some ten days. This party has done much work; made a map of
the line of the river and also along the river, and has furnished the
detailed data of cost of locating a rail or tramway along the Columbia.
They will continue their work to the mouth of the Snake river, thence
to the mouth of the Pelouse, when, their work ending, they will join
the main working party in advance.
I regret to report the sickness of Mr. Howard, however, and his
necessity to return to Fort Walla-Walla, where he is now under the
medical care of Dr. McParlin at the post. A swelling in his limbs,
due from cold, doubtless, has induced his present indisposition. The
charge of the party devolved upon Mr. De Lacey, the civil engineer
lately in the employ of Lieutenant Mendell, and who now has charge
of the party. Connected with this party is a Mr. George H. Smitt,
who joined me at the Dalles with a letter of appointment in my
expedition from the Secretary of War, bearing date of April 8, 1859,
employed as civil engineer.
The movement of the command under Major Lugenbeel for Fort
Colville was availed of, and Mr. Engle, at the Major's request, moved
with him, making an excellent map. of the line from this point to
Fort C(olville, which connects with our work of last year.
Mr. Sohon, who was with me last year, and who is again in my
employ, moved from the Dalles, and has gone forward in advance to
examine the road towards the head of the Pelouse, reported by the
Indians as practicable for a wagon road thence to the Bitter Root
valley. He moved with one man and an Indian, and reached a point
two hundred miles eastward; but the Indians have not only thrown
every obstacle in his way, but his life has become much endangered.
I received an express from him last night, giving the detail of his
progress; and an express goes to him to-morrow morning, with instructions to rejoin my party, which takes up its line of march for the
Cceur d'Alene Mission.
From representations made by parties I was led to suppose that a
shorter and more practicable route lay by the upper waters of the
Pelouse eastward, and determined to investigate it, and Mr. Sohon
started with instructions to this effect. Found one hundred and
seventy-five miles good, when the mountains became rugged and
difficult, thick timber and underbrush, and the route generally unfavorable. The disposition of the Indians, too, is of that character
as will not do to trust, especially with small parties.
Under these circumstances, the location will still be via the Coeur
d'Alene Mission. The Indians are still ill-disposed towards the location of the road through their lands; and though they may commit
no overt act or attack, still I believe they will do all they can to
annoy us by running off animals; and every vigilance shall be given,
so that we are not taken unawares. Of course, with the party
scattered along the line, the temptation to them is great. It they
commit any overt act, and do not make the most ample amends, we
shall give them a good thrashing, which, I find, is the best lesson to
teach them. Be assured that our progress shall not again be disturbed by them, iftit can be avoided.




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                 5
Our work again commenced from Fort Dalles, with a view of correcting any errors that might have been committed last year, which
has been continued to this point.
Mr. Engle, with one man, left this point yesterday to go up the
Snake river to the mouth of the Clearwater, and thence northward to
Tatuna, but will rejoin me at the Pyramid Butte. An accurate survey of this river I deem now to be of the utmost importance, in view
of the complete success by steam navigation up the Columbia and
Snake river to points already demanded, and as far as demanded by
the demands of trade and travel. I am sanguine then steamers can
ascend the Snake river to the mouth of the Clearwater. They have
already ascended it to this point.
I have thus given you a general exhibit of what has been done
since our arrival, and can state that by to-morrow morning we shall
be well under way for the mountains.
I have been compelled to organize a larger party than at first contemplated, but I do not deem that I have one man too many. The
work to be done is heavy, and the means must be proportionate.
I shall, however, towards the autumn, materially diminish my
force, sending a part home via the Missouri, and a part via Fort
Walla-Walla to the settlements. But I deemed, as the heaviest work
would be within the first three months, that true economy dictated
the supplying a larger force during that time.
My accounts for the quarter ending 30th June will be ready in a
few days, and be sent to the department. As the expenses were incurred only towards the end of the quarter, only the quarterly papers
are forwarded. I wrote twice to say that, as the appropriation of
$100,000 was now available, that I would respectfully request that
$60,000 of the amount be placed to my credit in New York, and
$40,000 in San Francisco; and, supposing that my requests would be
acceded to, I have been compelled, in organizing my party for purchases, &c., to draw on New York, thinking that by the time my
drafts reached the east, which would be by the 1st of July, that you
would have placed to my credit the necessary amount as asked for;
and should this not have been done, of course my drafts have been
protested. Again, unless it has been already done, would I ask that
sixty thousand dollars ($60,000) be placed to my credit in New York,
and the balance, $40,000, in San Francisco. This is absolutely
necessary for my operations.
The escort, with its employes, now number about one hundred and
forty men; my party, all told, some ninety men —a total of two hundred and thirty men-a force sufficiently strong to repel any attack of
Indians. Rumors have reached us to the effect that the Blackfeet
intend opposing our progress through their country. I give it for
what it is worth; but shall abide our time to report the details.
Be assured, captain, that unless some untoward circumstances intervene to prevent, we shall be across the Bitter Root mountains by
the middle of October.
The Indians, thus far, are all friendly, and I fear nothing from
them.
Trusting that my course, thus far, will meet with the approbation




6                MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
of the department, and requesting that all communications may be
directed to Fort Walla-Walla, Washington Territory, I am, most
truly, your obedient servant,
JOHN MULLAN,'Lieutenant United States Army,
In charge of Military Road from Walla- JValla to Fort Benton.
Captain A. A. HUMPHREYS,
U. S. Top. Engineers, in charge of Ofice Exp. and Surveys.
II.
FORT WALLA-WALLA AND FORT BENTON MILITARY ROAD EXPEDITION.
CAMP ON ST. JOSEPI's RIVER,
July 31, 1859.
SIR: My communication of 3d of July gave you the results of our
progress and general movements up to Snake river, which stream:having crossed we moved forward on the morning of the 4th, our
road having been completed lor some fourteen miles to the Pelouse.
~here it became necessary to keep a small exploring party in advance,
selecting and choosing the best line of location. From the general
topographical character of the country, we saw that our line must lay
up the valley of the Pelouse to its highest practicable point, or follow
the line of some of its northern tributaries. Mr. Sohon, who had
examined the valley of Schmokah, found it practicable, with water in
pools, but it required that the work should follow along side hills,
involving much work; and, fearing that these pools of water did not
last throughout the whole season, I preferred following the valleys of
running streams, and hence followed along the main Pelouse to the
mouth of the Mocahlissiah. Here, finding that the Pelouse bent too
far northward, and the Mocahlissiah lending its position to the proposed line of our road, I determined to examine it. Sending forward
Air. Kollecki with two men, he followed it for sixty miles, to and
beyond the Pyramid Butte. He found it practicable for a wagon road
for some twenty or thirty miles; but from that distance eastward the
stream flowed through a rocky canion, rendering its line unfavorable
and impracticable. He ascended the Pyramid Butte, from which he
had a fine view of the country for many miles in all directions, when
it became evident that our best if not only line was to follow the high
table land that lay between the valley of the Mocahlissiah and its
more northern tributaries. His trip resulted in the location of the
Pyramid Butte, a general knowledge of the topography of the country,
and the fact that any line by the Mocahlissiah, by many called the
main Pelouse, was impracticable.  From the point where we first
struck the Pelouse to the mouth of the Mocahlissiah, a distance of
nineteen miles, involved much work, at one point rock blasting for
three days. We reached the mouth of the Mocahlissiah on the 10th
of July. Here, encamping in good grass, and among the first pine




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                 7
timber met with on the road, we started our exploring party in advance, having determined to follow a line as direct as possible for the
southern edge of the Coeur d'Alene lake, governed, of course, by
camping ground along the route.
Mr. Sohon and a friendry Indian who had joined us, moving northward, found towards the headwaters of the Oray-tay-ouse, a beautiful
table land, which afforded us, with work, an excellent location. Continuing thence along the proposed line, we crossed to Teto-Teto-usupe, the Aqua-ayo-nepe, the Tril-Tril-po-vetz-sin, the Nedlyhuald
creeks, and reached our heaviest work in the timber on the evening
of 16th July. Along this line we had much work, but with a fatigue
party from our escort of twenty-one men we were enabled to proceed,
making good time. Having now (16th July) reached the timber, our
severe work commenced; and it became necessary to select the most
favorable camp for grazing our animals, and so arranging the command that our work should progress, and at the same time protection
be given our different parties in camp and at work. We selected a
small valley at the edge of the timber, some six miles west of the
mouth of St. Joseph's river, where we remained in camp until the
23d of July. During this time the command made the road through
the six miles of timber to the edge of a spur making down between
the outlets of the Pound lake and the mouth of the St. Joseph's river.
This spur involved some heavy work in rock. They also built a
strong, substantial bridge of pine over the outlet of Pound lake, sixty
feet broad, with one pier and two heavy abutments, and some three
feet above the highest water mark. Our road thence, for two miles,
lay along the left bank of the St. Joseph's river, through a strip of
cottonwood, which was cleared and made practicable by the fatigue
party, under general charge of Mr. Sohon, my guide and interpreter.
Finding here good grass, and a generally favorable location, we
moved the whole command over, where we encamped on the 24th
July, (Sunday.)
Moving forward with a small advanced party, I found the best
point for crossing the river would be to follow the valley on its left
bank for three miles still further to the east, over a fine prairie bottom, and directly opposite to the spur of the divide that would lead
us to the Cceur d'Alene river. To this point our command moved
in the afternoon of the 24th of July, and from which point I now
write you. Here the St. Joseph's is two hundred and forty feet broad
and thirty-seven feet deep; its usual depth being thirty-five, and
with no current. Finding the timber not as convenient as desired,
and all other contingencies considered, I determined that here, and
also for the Coeur d'Alene river, the same size as this, that a large
fiatboat would not only be the best, but, indeed, the most suitable,
for one or other purposes; and I regarded that any delay here involved would be of no loss to whatsoever command or party would be
here passing. For the valley of the St. Joseph's is the best grassed
(it and the Cceur d'Alene being of the same character) valley that we
found in the Coeur d'Alene mountains, and any party moving eastward or westward would halt here to avail themselves of its fine
grazing, and, in case of high freshets, would be less liable to be carried




8               M;ILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
away and destroyed than any bridge erected. Besides, a bridge of
a proper character would involve nearly a whole season over these
two streams. Having concluded, therefore, that a large flat on this
sluggish stream was best suited to our purposes, I set the men to work
in the timber with whip-saws, and, after three days' work, have procured timber and plank enough for a boat forty-two feet long and
twelve feet broad, which will be completed to-morrow, when we shall
begin the crossing of the St. Joseph's. The men are also now engaged
in getting out the timber and planks for the boat for the Coeur d' Alene
river. As soon as the command shall have crossed the stream, I shall
send the boat already completed around by the Coeur d'Alene lake to
the Coeur d'Alene river, and thence to the point of crossing, and the
one now in progress of construction will be left here.
Finding fine pitch pine in the mountains, we were enabled to burn
pitch enough for our boats. While this has been done, I move with
a small party in advance to explore the best line to the Coeur d'Alene
river, as the line followed by the Indian trail leads over impassable
spurs that would, if practicable at all, involve a season's labor. This
exploration involved four days in the timber and thick underbrush.
Finding a practicable location that led through a wooded caton
for fbur miles, I moved a working party of twenty men to Coeur
d'Alene river, to work from the mouth of a ravine southward, and
have a party of thirty men working from the head of the cation, or
ravine, northward; and I trust by 3d August that the whole line will
be opened, and by the morning of the 4th or 5th of August I shall
move the whole command over to the valley of the Cceur d'Alene
river; and, if all things should favor me, I am now in hopes of
reaching the Cceur d'Alene Mission by 8th of August at farthest,
from which point I shall again write you.
From the time we first struck the timber to the Coeur d'Alene Mission, the work has been more severe than I had any idea of, but it
has not as yet discouraged us, but nerved us to the greater exertion;
and I trust that the work ahead will not be so severe as to prevent us
reaching the Bitter Root in good season.
Here the fallen timber in the Coeur d'Alene mountains has been
lying for years, piled up at such heights that the Indians, to avoid
it, have made the most tortuous trail imaginable, up and down hill,
in order to avoid which, or rather to cut which, we have much hard
and tedious work, rendering our progress slow; but when once made,
our route will be an excellent one. We are now 199 miles from old
Fort Walla-Walla and 169 from the new fort; and I regard the route
followed as one of the best lines that the country affords, with good
grass, wood, and water along the whole line, affording camping
ground at short intervals. We have marked the route by mile-posts
along the whole line, each branded " M. R., - miles." With regard to these I will speak hereafter. The miles thereon marked is
the distance from Walla-Walla.
While the road has been worked, and our camp made for many days
at a time at one place, favorable opportunities have occurred for
reconnoitring and mapping the country for many miles around.
These have been all availed of, and, since I last wrote you, the fol



BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                 9
lowing side work has been done. Mr. Engle, when I last wrote you,
was absent examining the Snake river to the mouth of the Clearwater
or Red Wolf's crossing. From this point we moved northward to
Tatuna Hill, connected with Mr. Sohon's work, and joined my party
at the mouth of the Schmokah creek. Mr. Kollecki fixed the position
of Pyramid Butte, and then mapped the valley of the Mocahlissiah, and
since, availing ourselves of the barge of the Jesuit priests from the Mission, he, with a small party, went around the Coeur d'Alene lake, making an excellent map of it, and yesterday joined my party at this point.
He found the lake embosomed in a rugged bend of mountains, some
seventy miles around, and, in places, one hundred feet deep, and in
other places could find no bottom. There is no low land around the
lake whatever. Nothing but high, rugged, pine-clad mountains girt
it on every side. He, with Mr. Weisner, will go to-morrow by water
with the barge to the Coeur d'Alene Mission, to there put up their
transit and prepare for the approaching culminations they will be
enabled to observe there for once a month, as our progress eastward
from that point must be slow and tedious. We are now some ten
miles below the forks of the St. Joseph's, and, in order to ascertain
the true character of the country near its headwaters, I have directed
Mr. Engle and Mr. Sohon to proceed early to-morrow morning,
exploring both forks, and to join me on the Coeur d'Alene river. The
party under Mr. Howard has not yet joined me, but I expect them
every day. When I last heard from Mr. Howard (July 11) he was
still sick in bed at Fort Walla-Walla, with a swelling in his groin.
The accident to our level has been repaired and the party resumed
work, and by this time must have finished, and will soon join me. It
has taken them longer than anticipated, but their accidents have been
unavoidable. This will give you, therefore, a general exhibit of all
the work done, or now in progress up to date, with the exception of
Mr. Sohon's examination from the Tatuna Hill north and eastward.
As I informed you in my last communication, thinking that the
road spoken of by the Indians, if practicable, would be our best line
for the Bitter Root valley, I moved Mr. Sohon forward to its examination. He reached the camas plains of the Coeur d'Alene on the 19th of
June. Here he was to obtain a guide. Instead of finding the Indian
true to his word, he was absent afar in the mountains. Another Indian, pretending to know somewhat of the route, proposed to guide him.
Taking this man as a guide, he led him over mountains impracticable
for a wagon road to the south fork of the St. Joseph's. Here the
country became more favorable, but the Indian here meeting his brother
and others of his tribe, became reluctant to lead him further, and indeed went so far as to discuss and plan mischief to Mr. Sohon, but
who, fortunately understanding somewhat of their language, discovered
the plot laid for his life, and with a creditable policy extricated himself from their plans. Having learned the imminent danger to which
he was exposed, with two men I hastened an express to him to rejoin
me, which he did at the mouth of the Mocahlissiah. His trip developed one fact, that a route in that direction is impracticable and
out of the question, and I have since learned was only spoken of by
the Indians in order that we should follow it, and thus expend the




10               MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
season in doing nothing. The Coeur d'Alene Indians, though whipped
last year by Colonel Wright, are still treacherous and faithless; it is only
by the most watchful and rigid course that we are not led into difficulty
with them. I have enjoined upon the men from time to time the
most rigid prudence, and nothing shall be left undone that will go to
promote the most friendly relations with this and other neighboring
tribes. The Indians have all been restless since we have been in the
country, but are now becoming more tranquil. I avail myself' of every
occasion to impress them with the advantages that must accrue to them
on the opening of our road, and, indeed, many of them begin to see
and appreciate them, while others say that it is " an immense wedge
that we are planting in their midst, that must rend them and their
country asunder."
The relations with the Indians have given me much anxiety, and be
assured I have left and shall leave nothing undone that shall create
any but the most friendly relations with them. But under the most
favorable circumstances there are always to be found some mauvais
sujets among them. This has been evinced in the recent acts of
depredations of the Pelouse, which the enclosed communication to
General Harney, headquarters, and marked No. 1, will give you full
details. The enclosed paper, marked No. 2, will also show you how
guarded we have to be regarding the Nez Perces and their movements.
Thus far, however, all things have moved on as well as we could have
anticipated; and should no untoward accident befall us, we shall yet
successfully accomplished all for which we started.
Hoping to reach the Coeur d'Alene Mission by the 8th of August,
we shall have the best part of three months, August, September, and
October, for work in the Coeur d'Alene and Bitter Root mountains.
This should, unless our work should prove too severe, bring us to the
mouth of the St Regis Borgia river, and possibly to the Bitter Root
river, some eighty miles from the main Bitter Root valley. In case
I find that I cannot reach the valley with my train, I regard it much
better that I should return to winter at Walla-Walla, sending a small
party to the Bitter Root. By the middle of September I shall, however,
be the better prepared to arrange my programme for the winter.
Under any circumstances, captain, our appropriation should be renewed, and the remainder of the appropriation asked for by the honorable Secretary of War should be asked for in his annual estimate;
and I therefore urge it upon the department, at this early day, in
order that as much time as possible should be given to the subject in
the early days of the next Congress.
My party thus far have been in good health.
Trusting that my course thus far has met with the approval of the
department, and requesting that all communications be addressed to
me at Fort Walla-Walla,
I am, sir, with respect, your obedient servant,
JOHN MULLAN,
1st Lieut. 2d Artillery, CYom'g Military Road, tdc.
Captain A. A. HUMPRREYS;
U. S. Top Engineers, Com'g Office Exp. Surveys.




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                1 l
III.
CAMP AT CCEUR D'ALENE MISSION,
August 16, 1859.
SIR: My last communication to the department was from my camp
on the St. Joseph's river, July 31. At that time we were engaged in
building flatboats for the St. Joseph's and Coeur d'Alene rivers. On
the morning of the 1st of August a fiat, 42 by 12 feet, was finished,
when the escort and supply train of' Lieutenant White crossed to the
right bank, and on the morning of the 2d of August I completed the
crossing with my whole party. The boat for the Cceur d'Alene river
was completed on the evening of the fourth and rowed by the men,
via the lake, to the Cceur d'Alene river, and established at the crossing of that stream. The valley of the St. Joseph's, being somewhat
wet and marshy, compelled us to build a corduroy for 400 yards across
it, which, too, was completed by the evening of the 4th of' August.
The route thence to the Cceur d'Alene river, a distance of eleven
miles, which had been explored and worked with the parties referred
to in my last communication, was also completed on the morning of
the 5th of August, affording us an excellent road. This had occupied
fifty men for seven days in rock, earth, and timber, but we left behind
us a road that we passed over with single teams with facility. Our
advance working parties therefore, on the evening of the 5th of August, with the main body and escort, encamped on the left bank of the
Coceur d'Alene river. Having some days previous sent a small exploring party in advance, I found that my best, location would lay along
the left bank of the Coeur d' Alene for nine miles and then cross.
This was rendered necessary by the high rocky spurs coming to the
water's edge; rock, mostly a hard limestone and slate. Selecting there
a good grazing camp, our parties were again set to work, and completed the road to the crossing of the Cceur d'Alene by the evening of
the 10th of August. This work consisted in labor through open timber, one mile of grading, and building one large and three small
bridges over small creeks emptying into the Coeur d'Alene. The road
being completed, we effected the crossing of the Cceur d'Alene in safety
by the night of the 10th of August, and encamped on a small prairie
on its right bank. The road from this point to the Mission being explored by the time that the work in the rear was finished, I found that
we would be here delayed for some days, as the work in timber and
along the scarps of the spurs or hills was somewhat severe. This
road was commenced on the moining of the 11th and completed today, which I regard as the finest piece of road yet constructed. Here
I had my whole working force, laborers and teamsters and a detachment of 20 men from the escort. The road thence being open through
to the Mission, our command moved from our camp at the crossing, or
a point two miles to the east of the crossing, and reached here at noon
to-day. Our total distance from old Fort Walla-Walla landing to
this point is 228 miles, and from the new fort 1981 miles.
In my last communication I had hoped and expected to reach the
Mission by the 8th, but often we would begin the work along side




12               MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
hills and spurs, which on the surface appeared simply earth work, but
soon we entered bed rock, which rendered our work of blasting And
picking slow and tedious; but under all the circumstances of the difficulties of the route, I regard that we have reached this point of our
line in good season, and possible for this latitude in midsummer. I am
still sanguine as to our reaching the Bitter Root, unless some untoward
circumstance, not to be foreseen, should retard our progress. On our
line from the crossing of the Cceur d'Alene to this point we constructed three substantial bridges over several creeks that make from
the spurs to the north of the river. Since last writing you Mr. Kollecki and Mr..Weisner, with the Mission barge, started from St. Joseph's river with their instruments, and established an observatory at
the Coeur d'Al1ne Mission, where they have been collecting and are
still collecting data for the determination of its position. We have
with great accuracy the moon culminations, beginning on the 4th instant, and sets at meridian and night for latitude. Thus far two of my
chronometers work excellently, the remainder are somewhat indifferent. Our barometrical observations, which have been made from the
Dalles to this point almost hourly, are carried on at the observatory
with great care. We have been enabled to bring our barometers thus
far without accident or injury.
I find our latitude here differs but a few seconds from what we found
it by our observation of last year, and the approximate longitude, as
thus far determined, will throw the Mission a little to the west of that
heretofore given it. Our observations, however, are, as yet, worked
only approximately. Since last writing you, the party of Mr. Howard,
lately in charge of Mr. De Lacey, has joined me and been put to work
on the road. They completed their survey July 31, running their
line of levels to the mouth of the Pelouse for 191 miles, the longest
lines of levels yet run on the coast. Their route, as before stated,
was from the Dalles, up the Columbia, on its left bank, via old Fort
Walla-Walla, to the mouth of the Snake river; thence up the Snake,
crossing it at its mouth, along the right bank, to the mouth of the
Pelouse. Owing to the severe character of the work along the Snake
river, heavy and precipitous basaltic rock, Captain De Lacey found the
more practicable line to cross the river and keep along its right bank.
The general grade along his line of the Columbia will be thirty
feet, and more severe along the Snake, reaching at the maximum, at
some points, of sixty feet per mile. This spirit level line has been
run with much care, and reflects credit upon the party of surveyors, and will yet furnish the material to be worked up at the proper time, and turned to a practicable account. Already is it contemplated to construct a railway over the line that we surveyed from the
Dalles to the mouth of the Des Chutes, over which the whole trade
into the interior of Oregon and Washington will be transported.
Mr. Howard, who, at the date of my last communication, was an invalid at Fort Walla-Walla, joined me on the 14th instant, very weak
and feeble, and is now quite unwell and under treatment. He is
affected with a swelling in his groin, which now completely unfits
him for the field. With two other exceptions of my workmen, and
one or two soldiers, the command is in good health. The Indians,




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                13
thus far, are friendly, and we continue to exercise, by night and by
day, the strictest vigilance in our movements among and our intercourse with them. From this date, until our road shall be completed
across the divide of the Coeur d'Alene mountains, my plan of operations shall be as follows: A party of twenty-three men will go to-day,
with a pack train, eleven miles distant to a point of timber, and work
towards the Mission; a party of forty mpen, with three wagons, will
start this evening, cross the Coeur d'Alene at the Mission, where it is
fordable, and push the work forward to join the party in advance, and
I trust, by the 21st instant, to reach a prairie eleven miles east of the
3Mission. As additional supplies for our escort will start from WallaWalla, and be placed in depot at this point, to be here by the 15th
proximo, I have deemed the following the most judicious plan of
work:
To go in advance myself from this point, with all the working parties,
and push the road vigorously forward towards the waters of the Bitter
Root, striking the headwaters of the St. Francis Borgia; to leave
behind here in depot, until the road to the divide shall be completed,
Lieutenant White, with his escort, in command of all the wagons and
depot. He thus forms an entrepot between us and the lower country,
and, in command of the Mission valley, he holds and guards the key
to the mountain pass, as there is nothing ahead to fear. Besides, here
our large band of stock and work animals can find rich and abundant
grazing; and when the road iscompleted beyond the Oceur d'Alene
divide, a distance of about fifty miles, they can rejoin us in five days.
This, then, will be our plan; and when you next hear from me I
hope to be well on in the heart of the mountains. The weather,
during the day, is pleasant and well suited for work; the nights are
cold, the thermometer falling as low as 32~, with ice I —inch thick.
Thus far our camp grounds have been good and grazing excellent,
our animals, except those severely worked, being in good condition.
I use the oxen in the woods, removing logs and timber, but generally
they are in good condition. I shall send Mr. Sohon in advance tomorrow, to go as far as the Bitter Root valley, exploring and mapping
in great detail all the points of the line, so that we shall know the
points of greatest difficulty, and thus be enabled to arrange to the
best advantage our smaller working parties. I have a detachment of
twenty-one men every day, from the escort, on fatigue service-this
party under the charge of the civil engineer.
The Indians and others, in times past, have told me much regarding a practicable and easy route that would lead to the Clark's Fork,
at Thompson's prairie. In order to have this route examined aund
mapped, and thus add to our topographical knowledge of the mountain section, I shall send Mr. Engle to-morrow, with some friendly
Indians as guides, over the route, and crossing the Clark's Fork river,
go as far as the Flathead lake, and, returning via the mouth of the
Bitter Root river, by the St. Francis de Borgia valley, join me on the
line of work. Mr. Kollecki and Mr. Weisner will still remain, until
the work is completed ahead, at their observatory at the Mission, with
Lieutenant White's escort. I will also send, as soon as the water
falls sufficiently low, either Mr. Howard or Mr. De Lacey, via the




14               MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
river and lake, to the upper falls on the Spokan river, to examine in
detail and map the same, and, provided with the necessary tools, see
if the barrier of rocks that now constitute the obstruction to the free
passage of the waters of the Coeur d'Alene lake, and which I referred
to in my topographical memoir of last year, cannot be removed. Could
this be practicable, it would prevent the overflow of the St. Joseph's
and Coeur d'Alene rivers, keep their valleys dry, and be the means of
reclaiming thousands of acres of the richest agricultural land along the
western water-shed of the Caeur d'Alene mountains, and will be worth
all the trouble that the labor will cost in making the examination.
Mr. De Lacey will, I think, however, accompany Mr. Sohon, in exploring in advance, so that this last work will probably devolve upon
Mr. Howard on his recovery from his present ill health. You were
informed in my last letter that Mr. Engle and Mr. Sohon were absent
on an examination up the forks ot the St. Joseph's river. They examined both forks, some twenty miles above where I made the crossing
of the river, and found the valley of each fork to this distance to retain the general characteristics of the main valley, where the high
pine-clad spurs closed in on both sides, rendering the valley an almost
mountain defile, the width of the stream itself. This examination
shows the St. Joseph's to be the larger and longer of the feeders
of the Coeur d'Alene lake, having its sources near the headwaters
of the Pelouse, far in the eastern spurs of the Bitter Root mountains.
This examination of this river has thus supplied us a topographical
desideratum much desired.
You have thus an exhibit of what has been done since 31st July,
and our general plan of work and movements until my next communication, which will be about 1st proximo, when I hope to be near the
headwaters of the Coeur d'Alene river. Since last writing you, the
Indians have given no additional signs of malevolence, or a feeling
that would materially interfere with or retard our progress. An express from the settlements yesterday brought me the communication
of the department, stating that $30,000 would be placed to my credit
in New York, and $20,000 in San Francisco. My accounts for quarter
ending 30th June, supposing the whole appropriation to be subject to
my draft, would leave some seventy-one thousand dollars on deposit.
My monthly expenses are now a little over $5,000 per month, and I
owe Mr. Chouteau for 24.000 rations sent from St. Louis, 27th May,
to Fort Benton, and freight on same, amounting in all to some $10,000,
which I will pay as soon as the deposits are made. I owe also to
quartermaster's department some $2,000, which covers all the indebtedness of the expedition up to date, except the monthly pay of
men. The monthly account bor July will go by this express, and
show you the state of affairs up to August 1. The remainder of the
appropriation, therefore, I would respectfully ask to be placed to my
credit with the assistant treasurer in New York, as my men will be
discharged on the Missouri, and it will be more convenient to have the
money in New York than in San Francisco.
Although my monthly expenses are greater than originally, roughly
estimated, they are not a dollar too much for our work, though it may
be for the appropriation, but I have reasoned thus: should we reach




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                 15
the Bitter Root in good season, we shall reach Fort Benton in early
summer, where I can disband a large part of my force and send them,
via the Missouri, to St. Louis, and thus what is expended now, saved
then. Besides, I am in hopes that the remainder of our appropriation will be asked for, and 1 can only entertain the hope that the department, understanding in detail, and appreciating the difficulties
and severity of our work, and the cost of transporting provisions and
material of construction over'so long and distant line in a perfect wilderness, will at this early day take the -subject under its special notice, and submit to the approaching Congress the estimate made by
the honorable Secretary of' War last year, and which was indorsed by
the Military Committee in the Senate. Besides, I shall suggest, and
if the views I now entertain are carried out as I could well wish, I
will then recommend to the department that when I shall have completed the road to the Missouri, which I hope will be in midsummer
of 1860, that I should retrace my steps over the route to the Columbia,
repairing and otherwise improving the route as circumstances in the
interval shall determine. On my reaching the Bitter Root valley I
shall then lay before the department certain views and plans of operation that the results of our expedition have developed.
Thus far all moves well with us, and I can only hope that the same
good fortune and success that has attended our movements to this
point will continue to the end of our expedition.
Trusting that my course and plan of operation thus far have met
with the approval of the department,
I am, captain, with respect, your obedient servant,
JOHN MULLAN,
1st Lieutenant 2d Artillery, in charge of road.
Captain A. A. HUMPHREYS,
United States Topographical Engineers,
In charge of the Ofice of Explorations and Surveys.
IV.
CAMP ON C(UR D'ALENE RIVER,
21 miles east of Mission, September 4, 1859.
Sil: My last communication to you, dated at the Coeur d'Alene Mission, 16th August, gave you up to that date our progress and general
movements.
In accordance with the programme then given, I moved all the
working parties forward in four sections, working the road from the
Mission up the valley of the Coeur d'Alene towards the summit of
the mountains, or divide separating the waters of the Coeur d'Alene
from those of the Bitter Root, leaving behind me my wagon train with
the escort under Lieutenant White, to guard our rear and keep open
the communication between Fort Walla-Walla and the Mission, and
at the same time to give the necessary protection to our train.
Each of these parties moves with a pack train, which is necessary
in order to take advantage of the sparse grazing, and at the same time




16               MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
to expedite our general movements.  As soon as the route was opened
from the Mission to some eight miles eastward, we struck an open
wooded country, which afforded sufficient grazing for two weeks for our
large band of animals. Lieutenant White, in general charge, therefore,
established here a depot camp. The grazing having become nearly
exhausted, he will move to-morrow to a point ten miles east of the
Mission, where he will find sufficient grass for our train until I can
open the road to the foot of the mountains, where again we strike a
large prairie that will afford us grazing, say, for ten days or two weeks.
Having, therefore, in my judgment, deemed the plan proposed the
best under the circumstances, the parties have moved forward, working
the road through the timber, and last night (Saturday, 3d) reached
with the rear party our camp, twenty-one miles east of the Mission.
There are two parties still in advance, and by the 10th of September
I hope to reach the prairie near the foot of the western water-shed of
the mountains, and by the 20th September to reach the summit of
the mountains, and probably by the 15th October to strike the Bitter
Root river.
The work thus far has been heavy, and hence tedious. The timber
is large and dense, but I can report that we have left behind us as
excellent a route as any mountain region can boast of. The work has
consisted of clearing of timber, grading and bridging. It would be
almost difficult to say how much bridging is required, but suffice it
to say that every point has been bridged or corduroyed that required
it. My rear party moves with four wagons and our forge, and they
have thus tar passed over the route without difficulty or accident.
The general direction of this valley is as represented by the last
maps of Governor Stevens, but the spurs make down upon the river,
overlapping each other, rendering the stream itself very tortuous, and
hence to be frequently crossed. All the crossings are now fordable,
and are always fordable from 1st June. Owing to the number and
character of these, I have deemed it, with my present time and appropriation, a matter of complete impossibility to stop to bridge them
now. Already up to this point we have made fourteen fords, each
involving a bridge of heavy structure, that would require not less than
two weeks to each, or seven months' bridging alone. For all practical purposes, as this route will and can only be travelled when the
grass is in season, our present system is the best. From the Bitter
Root river to Fort Benton, as we shall have, say, December, January,
February, and March, I shall be enabled to get out bridge materials
for each of the crossings of the streams, so that it can be travelled in
high as well as low stages of water. But at present it is essential
that we open the road through the heavy timber, cross the mountains, and reach a wintering cantonment in the Bitter Root valley or
its vicinity. What I would propose would then be that, pushing on
with my party to Fort Benton, say, in early summer, I will there
await the arrival of the steamer from St. Louis; and in case we have
our appropriation renewed, I can have sent me from St. Louis another
party of workmen, hired at reduced wages, and, returning over the
route, render it of a more permanent character. To build a line of
six hundred miles of road, at an average of $200 per mile, in a coun



BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                  17
try where the lowest price of labor is $50 per month, and transportation at the rate of from $200 to $300 per ton, is less than roads have
ever yet been constructed; and the difficulties and length of the route,
and the manner of overcoming them, have been so often and in such
detail set before the department in my previous reports that it would
hardly seem necessary to call attention to them again.
But in view of the great length of time required for my communication to reach Washington and a reply to be had, I would again
earn, stly recommend to the department that our appropriation be
continued, say, $100,000, in order that we may creditably complete a
work now in successful progress, and the results of which are to redound at an early day to the best interests of the country. My
monthly expenses are now near $6,000.  I owe to Messrs. Chouteau
& Co. over $10,000 for stores and transportation to Fort Benton, and
my employes, up to 31st August, over $15,000, making, say, $25,000,
and balance on hand August 31, say, $68,000 of appropriation, leaving,
say, $43,000, and at the rate of $6i,000 per month in seven months, or
from 1st September to 31st March, or in April, our appropriation
nearly exhausted, at which time I shall have to discharge all my employes at Fort Benton, and send them in boats, via the Missouri, to
St. Louis or the settlements.  In view of these things, therefore, I
trust the appropriation will not only be asked for, but at such an
early day that we may continue our work in the field.
An express reached me on the 18th of August from Fort Benton,
giving me the gratifying intelligence of' the safe arrival at that point
of the staunch little steamer Chippewa, having on board some 24,000
rations for my party, and such articles for my road as I needed; all
safely delivered by steamer direct from St. Louis to Fort Benton.
This, therefore, is a complete sulccess, and practically proves that which
we have so often advocated. With the success in steam navigation
had on the waters of the Columbia duiing the present year, (for
steamer Colonel Wright has navigated up to mouth of the Ton eation
at the point where our road crosses the Snake river,) and with steamers
to Fort Benton, it needs no special proof to show what bearing our
present labors are having in connecting these two heads of navigation
on the two great arteries of the country. Already is the result of our
labors being appreciated, for travel is already had over our line, and
much more contemplated. When opened, the route can be made byv
troops with easy marches in sixty days; and as soon as we shall have
reached the Bitter Root, I will be enabled then to lay before the department, with confidence in their final success, certain movements
that can be carried out, demanded by the military necessity of the,
service, and that can be effected with a saving of 50 per cent. to the
Treasury Department of the amount that it would cost by any other
route.
Mr. Chouteau will, in all probability, put another steamer on the
river early next season, and I hope to reach Fort Benton at an early
day to meet any party on her arrival.
Since I last wrote vou, I sent Mr. Kollecki to examine the country
from the Mission to Fort Colville, where a large post has been recently
established, with which a wagon road is had to Walla-Walla. This
H. Ex. Doc. 44    2




18               MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
I deemed of importance, not only in a topographical light, but with
a view of collecting data and information that would enable us to
judge of the practicable connexion by a wagon route for military purposes to that point. I will report the results of his exploration in my
next letter. I am confident, however, that a good wagon road line
can be had, and when the military necessity arises for connecting this
point by our road with points east, we shall be possessed of all the
information requisite.
Mr. tohon and Mr. Engle (are still absent, the former selecting tlhe
best line of' location for our road hence to the Bitter Root, and the
latter exploring and mapping a new route recently discovered by the
Indians from the Coeur d'Alene Mission to the Clark's Fork, at Thompson's prairie.  I had an express fromn Mr. Sohon from the summit of
the Coeur d'Alene mountains, up to which point he had furnished me
with sketches of the route on a large scale bor our working parties of
the whole route fromn the Mission to the summit.
Both Mr. Engle and Mr Sohon have with them a party of' friendly
Indians as guides and employes. From the results of their labors I
expect much. We shall lose no opportunity to collect all available
data that will go to form a complete and correct map of' this region.
As I informed you in my last communication, my observatory was
established at the Cceur d'Ale1ne Mission by the 3d of August, at which
point we have had daily and continuous observations made up to date.
To-day I shall send instructions back to Mr. Weisner and Mr. Kollecki
who have had charge of the observatory, and direct them to discontinue
their observations at that point and establish their observatory at the
foot of the Coeur d'Alene mountains, with a view of fixing accurately
the position of' the pass across the Cceur d'Alene mountains. This
point well determined, and the juncture of the St. Francis Borgia
with the Bitter Root, will be excellent intermediate points betaeen
the Mission and the Bitter Root valley.
Be assured that we shall leave nothing undone that shall be necessary to mark and determine every point that will be necessary to retfer
to at any time in the future. The region of country through which
we have passed from the Mission eastward is a dense fobrest of' fir, pine,
hemlock, large cedar, spruce, and alder, and near the margin of the
river cottonwood. The valley has a general width of from -{ to one
mile, with spurs, however, often coming down close to the water's
edge, and within 300 yards of' each other. The general grade of the
valley is, say, 25 feet to the mile. In most places the geological formation is of limestone; in many places, however, we have struck large
veins of' quartz between huge beds of slate. The slate formation is
after the limestone more trequently met with, and from time to time
large beds of granite. The indications of' gold are frequent, though
only in one case have we found scale gold. The color and black sand
is frequently met with, and I avail myself of every opportunity to have
the country prospected and explored, as I have in the expedition many
old California miners.
The Indians thus far are quiet, and I shall endeavor by a just and
prudent course to retain their friendship. They have quietly settled
down regarding our road, and now, instead of regarding it as a cause




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                  19
for dissatisfaction, rather look upon it as an especial advantage, and
make use of it instead of their Indian trails.
We allow no trading whatsoever with the Indians, unless it be done
with an interpreter, and have, in a word, taken every precaution to
avoid either a difficulty or a conflict with them. They are now at
the many points in the country collecting roots, fish, and berries, and
cease to be alarmed at our continued presence in their country.
T'he Jesuit fathers now, I think, use their influence in behalf of our
movements; but truly, I am led to believe that much of the hostility
and opposition heretofore had on the part of the Indians against our
road has originated in the feeling of lukewarmness, if' not opposition,
direct on the part of the fathers to our work and to our road. I am
loth to come to this judgment and conclusion, and it is with regret
and reluctance that I make it, for personally, the fathers have been
kind to me and attentive to my every want.  But there are evidences
so strong that in my official capacity I have been led to observe them,
and hence report them; and though it may seem strange, yet I confidently believe that the conflict with our troops that led to Steptoe's
disaster can be traced to causes that had their commencement in that
feeling which has taught all missionaries to keep the Indians aloof
from contact with the white man. The charge of inciting the Indians
to an open conflict would be serious in itself against any white man,
or band of white men, but still there are evidences enough to lead me
to suppose that had the missionaries not been in the country, we
should not have been compelled to record a reverse to our arms, and
a disaster that in itself has rendered the Indians bold, saucy, and impudent. Since I have been in the country I have toid them all what
their punishment shall be in case they destroy any of our boats,
bridges, or improvements, and which truiy I shall carry out if the
occasion arises, which I am happy to say that thus far it has not:
namely, that I shall hang every man who, forgetful of his promises
made to Colonel Wright last summer on the conclusion or the war,
shall dare to depredate upon our road.  I hope to write the department again between this and 20th instant. I received per last express
a letter from the department informing me that a deposit of $30,000
would be placed to my credit in New York, and $20,000 in San Francisco. By the summary statement rendered August 31, which, with
other papers, is herewith enclosed, a balance of some $18,000 is due
the United States, which, with $50,000 yet to be placed from the
appropriation, will be $68,000.  My liabilities up to date are $25,000,
leaving $43,000. I would, therefore, request that the remainder of
the appropriation, $50,000, be placed to my credit with assistant
treasurer in New Yolk city, to meet contingencies as they arise.
Trusting that my plans of operation and general movements thus
far have been approved by the department, I am, sir, with respect,
your obedient servant,
JOHN MULLAN, 1st Lieut. 2d Art.,
Charye of Military Roadfrom Fort Walla- IFalla to Fort Benton.
Captain A. A. HUMPHREYS,
U. S. Top. Engs., charge of Qfce of Exp. and Surveys.




20               MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
V.
MILITARY ROAD EXPEDITION,
Camp on north fork of Ceeur d'Alene river,
30 miles east of Mission, Sept. 19, 1859.
SIR: My communication of 4th September, from camp 20 miles east
of Mission, informed you of my progress and general movements up
to date; since then, though our progress has been slow, our work has
been great. From that date to the present, the work has been in
large and heavy timber-cedar, hemlock, white pine, and fir principally; and in places, much and heavy grading in order to secure the best
location. The timber has been heavy to cut, and equally so to clear.
On the 12th instant we reached the forks of the river and the forks of
the road, and finding the best location across the mountains by the
northern fork, our work since then has been along it. We made sixteen fords or crossings on the main stream, and up to date have made
eleven on the north fork-in all twenty-seven crossings. You will
form probably a better idea of the character of the river and the formation of the mountain spurs from this than any other description I
might be enabled to give you. As we enter mountains, as we anticipated, the work becomes heavier, and the spurs of the mountains overlapping each other turns or drives the river from bank to bank, rendering it exceedingly tortuous. There is no alternative left but to
cross the river, or have heavy rock cutting along points of spurs; the
latter consumes more means than is at our disposal, and the former
hence has to be done —the river forded and not bridged-for the cost
of time for twenty-seven heavy bridges would run us far into the
winter. Therefore you will readily see that the views contained in
my last report are the only ones that can be practically carried out.
From this to the mountains I shall have not less than fourteen more
crossings; on the St. Francis Borgia not less than forty-six; each
of these. in order to render the route in a travelling condition in the
stages of' high water, involves a bridge-some small, many largeand hence it needs no reference on my part to set before the department the time and cost requisite to construct them. It will be well
if, with our present appropriation, we can open the route to the Missouri through the timber and mountains, and render it practicable for
either an emigration or military purpose at seasons of low water.
But if these bridges are built, it can be travelled at all seasons, and
hence my original plan and the plan indorsed long since by Governor
Stevens, who is equally conversant with the character and the difficulties as myself. My plan, then, is, and which again I suggest
and with respect submit to the department for its consideration and a
claim thereon, and hence recommendation to Congress, that the route
be opened to the Missouri, where, being already provided with the
tools, material, and means of transportation, which we have now
abundantly on hand, and with a party of workmen hired at reduced
wages and brought from St. Louis, we can retrace the road and put it
in a complete and practicable condition. I trust, therefore, the department, appreciating what has been done, and the importance of the




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                 21
road in a military point of view at the present time, when our difficulties on the North Pacific are of a character that might well arrest
our attention, will, by its action and favorable indorsement, bring to
a successful end a work now in successful progress.
Since last writing you both Mr. Engle and Mr. Sohon have returned
from their successful explorations. The former reports in detail the
character of the line, and represents everything as favorable on the
proposed line of location as we could desire, and no difficulties so great
but what I trust our zeal and industry may be found equal to cope
with. Mr. Engle's trip has definitely settled the character of the
new route hence to the Clark's Fork. He passed over the divide
separating the waters of the Spokane from those of the Clark's Fork,
and found the route difficult and uninviting and impracticable, either
for a wagon or rail route. His exploration developed the country at
the head of the north branch of the north fork of the Coeur d'Alene
river, and has added materially to our topographical knowledge of the
region between the two streams above referred to; returned via mouth
of BitterRoot and St. Francis de Borgia and across divide along the
southern fork of Coeur d'Alene, and secured in detail certain topographical material much needed in that section. Mr. Sohon examined
in his trip both banks of the Bitter Root; found we would cross it three
times in order to secure the best location and avoid difficult work; unfortunately they both represent the whole country burned and the
grass destroyed. I am somewhat anxious regarding the welfare of
our stock, but trust the September rain will cause the grass to spring
up. I regret to state too, that the weather has recently been unfavorable for our progress-several rainy days in succession; but to day the
clouds have broken, and we trust the bright sun may be the harbinger
of future good weather that will materially add to our progress. Mr.
Kollecki has also returned from his trip to the Colville wagon road,
and made in great detail maps and cross sections of the falls at outlet
of Coeur d'Alene lake, made with the view to ascertain if a removal
of the fall would not materially change the volume of Ihe water in
the river and lake. This was referred to in my topographical memoir
submitted to the department in February last, which please see. He
confirms my views as then given, and finds that the overflow of the
fertile valleys of the Coeur d'Alene and St. Joseph can be prevented.
This 1 regard an important consideration in the future settlement of
this country, and will be the-means of reclaiming thousands of acres
of most excellent agricultural land. I had intended to apply the services of Mr. Howard to this special work, but I regret to report his
continued sickness, and his inability to perform any service whatever
since the middle of June last; and I find my force so completely occupied that I have not a single man to spare for the work, but the material collected will at the proper time be arranged and laid before the
department for the action of those who may yet retrace our steps, provided it be not yet accomplished by ourselves; for we are anxious and
willing to do each and everything in connexion with our movements
that need add to the development and the knowledge and information of the region in which we are laboring. Mr. Kollecki is now in
charge of a party en route, mapping in great detail the line of our




22                MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
route from the Mission to the mountains. M.r. Weisner is with this
party observing for time and latitude, and at the same time running
a barometrical line to compare with a line of spirit levels that is
being run by Mr. Johnson. As the principal difficulties of the whole
route from Fort Walla-Walla to Fort Benton have always been regarded by Governor Stevens and myself as lying between Cceur
d'AlSne Mission and the Bitter Root river, I am desirous of laying before the department in detail and with accuracy, an excellent map
and a complete line of barometrical and spirit levels through the pass
over this route. This line I shall continue to Fort Benton. Our level
line from Fort Dalles to the mouth of Pelouse, one hundred and
ninety-two miles, was run very satisfactorily, and I only regret that
the number of my barometers was such that I could not spare one to
run in connexion with the line, and then ascertain the exact reliance
to be placed on our barometers, and at the same time lend our aid in
adding more data to barometrical science. We shall however avail
ourselves of the opportunity that the present occasion affords us, and
collect all data that can be made of' availability hereafter. I find in
Mr. Weisner a gentleman of marked talent and ability. His labors
in the astronomical department are untiring and satisfactory. In addition to securing material for the latitude and longitude of' each
point requisite, he finds ample time to devote to many points that add
to the knowledge of the scientific world. While our observatory was
established at the Mission be more particularly devoted himself to observations on the spots of the sun, the results of which will, at the
proper time, be laid before the department.  Regarding Mr. Kollecki's
trip to the Colville wagon road, I would state he found the route practicable, but at heavy cost from the Mission to the Coeur d'Alene lake,
provided the north bank of the Spokane be followed.  But from my
knowledge of' the country and the character of the Spokane, as shown
by his trip, I am led to suppose that the south bank for a certain distance will be found more practicable, and by crossing at a point
known as "Antoine Plants," that a good line can be secured. Mr.
En gle is now at leisure for this trip, and to-morrow I shall send him forward to its examination and trust to lay the results of his trip before
the department in my next communication, which will be about the
fifth ot October. From our slow progress during the two weeks past
we shall fall far short of the times of arrival at certain points of' the
route in advance, referred to in my last communication. But without
referring to any special dates, for there are so many contingencies
daily arising that render our calculation very uncertain, the department may be assured that our road shall be pushed fobrward with all
the energy, zeal, and industry that our party is possessed of. I would
here simply state that though yesterday was Sunday, our men were
diligently at work on the road in order that we might avail ourselves
of every pleasant day before crossing to the summit of Coeur d'Alene
mountains.  A supply train for the escort reached Coeur d'Alene Mission without accident or difficulty on the 15th instant under Major
Grier, making the trip from Walla-Walla in thirteen days. The department will, I trust, appreciate our labors on that part of the road
alone when they remember it cost our party fifty-one days to open it.




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                 23
The Indians still remain quiet; the health of our party is generally
good; two men, Rease and Dickinson, have been discharged on account of ill health; some accidents have befallen our men, that I
trust time 2nd care will remedy; two men cut with axes, one man accidently shot in the knee, and one injured by a falling tree; Mr. Howard still in bed from swelled groin. The remainder of the men are
at work each day. Four men, Barstow, Lyne, Brennan and Irons,
were discharged on the 16th instant, as they did not come up to the
standard and requisites for laboring tmen on this expedition. I sent
them back to Walla-Walla with Major Grier's train, provisioning
them up to the first of October. These are the only men I intend discharginjg for the present, as my force is the smallest possible to accomplish the work intrusted to me. My route hence from this point will
be up the valley of the north fork following generally the river to an
open prairie, five miles from the summit of the mountains, which is
now eight miles distant, and if we reach the eastern base of the mountains by the 5th or 10th of October, I shall rest satisfied, for then we
shall be secure from snow in the mountains. I shall write the department again by the 5th of October, at which time I will forward returns for the month of September and for the third quarter.  I have
this day forward to P. Chouteau & Co. a draft for ten thousand six hundred and eighty-five dollars and twenty-five cents ($10,685,25) for
stores and transportation to Fort Benton, and have directed them to
forward one copy of the voucher to you and the other to myself for
the reason that they will be included in the third quarter, and I send
them the vouchers by this mail for their signature. Since the time
occupied fobr a return will be too great, and as winter is approaching,
we may be imuch delayed in receiving our communications, &c. The
vouchers will be retained till my accounts for the third quarter are received at your office, when they will be included in the same, as will
be hereafter referred to.
Trusting that my course and plans of operation will meet with the
approval of the department,
JOHN MULLAN,
ist Lieutenant 2d Artillery, in charge of Military Road.
Captain A. A. HUMPIIREYS,
U. S. lbp. Engineers, in charge of Ofice of Exp. and Surveys.
VI.
MILITARY ROAD EXPEDITION To FORT BENTON,
Camp at foot of divide of Cceur d'Alene Mlountain.s,
October 4, 1859.
SIR: My last communication, dated September 19, gave you a general journal of our movements and purposes, since which date we have
continued through the same character of country and wqrk up to date.
We reached our camp at the foot of the divide on the night of the
28th September, and all our force is now working vigorously up the




24                MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
western slope of the divide of the mountains. After a long and
careful examination of the range and its different gaps and depressions, we have found a pass, which, probably, is the lowest in the
Coeur d'Alene range, and which, in honor of Mr. Sohon, who made
the first topographical map of it in our expedition, I have termed
"Sohon's Pass."  It is a low (comparatively) saddle between the
high mountain peaks, and within one-half a mile of what is called
by Governor Stevens " Coeur d'Alene Pass."  The eastern slope of
this divide is most beautiful for our parposes; does not involve one
foot of grading, is slightly timbered, and, probably, our wagons may
descend it with wheels unlocked. Our road over it is entirely on the
western slope. It will be by our road about one and a half miles
from base to summit, and as the slope is too steep, will involve two
curves along the spur, which will cost heavy work in grading; and
as all the timber on the slope is heavy and hard, the tedious and more
difficult work will be the grubbing out the large stumps, the roots of
which, at times, would seem to run over the whole mountain side.
This will occupy us till the 12th instant, and I hope by the 15th instant
that our advanced working parties will be encamped on the St. Francis
Borgia. From that point to the Bitter Root, about thirty miles, I
shall push onward with all the speed and vigor possible; for I am
well aware that the season is far advanced, and the weather, in the
shape of ever incessant rains for two weeks, has been much against
us, and though it did not suspend the work, it has retarded its general progress. As soon as the work over the divide is completed, I
shall begin to move my train of wagons over, now some twenty-eight
miles to our west, and in consequence of scarcity of grass in the mountains, shall be compelled to drive my stock to the Bitter Root river.
Sparse grazing may be found west of the divide, but I fear keeping
my stock west of the range too long, for the weather already is becoming very cold, and our stock, principally mules and horses, have
had much service for the last five months, and many of my oxen are
reduced in flesh. All these circumstances, therefore, prompt me to
keep them east of the range, and as soon as the road to the Bitter
Root river shall be opened, my wagon train will follow. This, then,
as you will see, will bring us into the main Bitter Root valley not before the middle of December, at which time our stock will need much
rest and good grazing; and I can only entertain the hope that the
winter may be both late and mild. I have, since the commencement
of the work, pushed forward with all the energy and will at our disposal; and you will, I trust, readily appreciate best the character and
amount of our labor from the time and force employed upon it. Every
teamster, cook, laborer-in fact, my every man is daily, with pick,
shovel, and axe, on the road, and thirty-three enlisted men on fatigue
duty in addition. You will also see how impossible it was to give the
secretary, in advance of our detailed work, any statement regarding
programme and force employed, as the principal difficulties lay between Walla-Walla and Bitter Root valley; and as the latter point
is the only ore where we can safely winter, you will, I trust, appreciate my plan by pushing on this section of the work with the largest
force possible. But this will involve our appropriation being totally




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                 25
expended in spring, or very early summer, and I can only entertain
the hope that the department will take those steps as will continue
our appropriation. We are now 267 miles from our initial point,
Fort Walla-Walla, and as we progress the length and difficulty of
our communications are increased. Up to the present time my mail
through the Indian country has been carried twice a month, (there
being no mail route,) by two of our men. From 1st November I
shall make the attempt to establish winter express once a month.
For this purpose, I propose establishing small depots of oats for forage
at Walla-Walla, at Snake river, at Cceur d'Alene Mission, at divide
at mouth of St. Francis de Borgia, and Bitter Root; and, with fresh
horses, hope to be in communication with the department once a month.
If this is not done we shall be cut off fbr six months from all communication, and I regard the interests of our work such that, I feel warranted in pursuing the plan indicated, both at the risk of expense,
difficulty, and danger. My levelling party is behind only 12 miles.
They find easy grades from the Mission, commencing with 12 and
ending, at the latest dates, with 25 feet to the mile. I am confident
that our late results, and the detailed topography along the northern
slope of the mountains along left bank of the Cceur d'Alene river,
will develop such a line as to show not only easy grades in our ap
proach to the mountains for a railroad line, but on entering the pass,
will involve a tunnel of not more than one-half mile  The detailed
level and topographical line will, however, show it beyond cavil or
doubt, and I regard the matter a discovery worthy of special note in
the railroad question. Mr. Engle, whom I sent forward on the Colville line, has not yet returned. I look for him daily, and will report
the results of his labors in my next communication.
I will establish an observatory on the summit of the pass on Thursday the 5th instant, where, with our transit, we will observe the
moon culminations for the coming lunation, and I am sanguine to
believe that with clear weather we shall be enabled to obtain good
results. Our barometric line still continues to be run with our line
of spirit levels.  Our observations for time and latitude continue
every day with the levelling party under Mr. Kollecki. This, then,
will give you a general idea of our work now in progress or contemplated; and this plan will continue till reaching main Bitter Root river,
where circumstances or contingencies of the moment may suggest a
different one. The Indians are still quiet and molest us not. The
major portion of the escort, however, is in my rear, with the wagon
train, 28 miles. Our advance working parties are all still moving
with small pack trains, which materially adds to the progress of our
work. The wagon forge and a small depot of supplies in wagons,
however, still brings up the rear day by day. The forge is in daily
use, making and repairing tools and the general outfit of the train.
I stated in my last report that supplies forwarded to Fort Benton
would be taken up on the third quarter, but as the papers were made
mostly out, they will not appear till the fourth quarter. I have
already, however, forwarded to Messrs Chouteau a check for over
$10,000, which will be the summary statement for October. I had
intended sending a pack train to Fort Benton for supplies there in




26               MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
depot, but I find that I cannot spare a single man from my work, (the
teamsters and packers are all laborers on the road;) and I have
effected such arrangements with Lieutenant White as will not necessitate sending a train forward before reaching Bitter Root valley. I
trust, too, in this the department will appreciate my plan when I
shall show that the cost in transportation by the two methods or
routes, if applied, will be as one to two. 1 shall write the department
again 1st November; party is in general good health; Mr. Howard
is still unable to do any duty about room; man shot is recovering;
the men cut with axes and hurt by falling tree recovering; all other
men daily on road.
Trusting that the department will still find our determination and
energy in our work in the end, as it has in the beginning, and that
my general plan will meet its indorsement, 1 am, sir, with esteem,
your obedient servant,
JOHN MULLAN,
First Lieut. 2d Artillery, in charge of Military Road.
Captain A. A. HUMPHREYS,
U. S. Tbp. Engineers, in charge of Office of Exp. and Surveys.
VII.
CAMP AT FOOT OF BITTER ROOT MOUNTAINS,
October 26, 1859.
SIR: An Indian en route to Walla-Walla enables me to drop simply
a line. Our road across to Bitter Root mountains is completed, after
a laborious and severe work. But it speaks for itself. The road is
now opened to a point five miles east of the range, and all our wagons,
stores, and stock are east of the range. I shall push vigorously
forward to the Bitter Root river, which I find I cannot reach before
20th November; and cannot reach Bitter Root valley before 15th December or 1st January. I truly regret that so late a season should
find us hard at work with the road to the Bitter Root still incomplete;
but I trust the department will appreciate the character of our labor
when they learn that on the mountains alone I had one hundred and
ten men at work in order to get over in time, and our work cost us
twenty days at times in drenching rains. Our last train of wagons
crossed the divide to-day with no snow, but the nights are cold, and I
regret to report the loss of most of my horses and a number of
oxen and beef cattle. The horses were Indian horses, and being
much used in the summer for various purposes had very sore backs,
an(l during the cold nights with scanty food they could not stand the
cold but died by the wayside. This has grown out of the peculiar
nature of our work, where they have been kept in the mountains on
sparse grazing for near three months.  We have had four weeks incessant rain, which rendered ollr road very wet and muddy, and when
moving our trains from the depot camp we experience(l great difficulty
and delays. SMy depot while the road is being worked is now about




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                  27
five miles east of the divide, and will there continue till we reach
Bitter Root river, when it will move down. When my teamsters are
with my train, that much effective force is taken off the road. I have
every man possible on the road, including between thirty and forty
soldiers. If anything, my force is rather too small than too large
for the work to be done, and, as I before informed the department,
my appropriation will be expended by April or May next, and I can
only hope the department will press urgently the matter before Congress, and not leave me in the mountains with my hands tied. I
would ask again, in case it be not already done, that the remainder of
the road appropriation be placed, as I urgently requested, with the
assistant treasurer in New York to meet my drafts.  I have had
already one check returned protested, and will hereafter draw on
New York and trust the department will there place sums to cover
my drafts. The department may rely that all shall be done that shall
insure ourfinal success. But midwinter will, I fear, still find us west
of the Bitter Root valley. I will write again from Bitter Root river.
Truly, your obedient servant,
JOHN MULLAN,
1st Lieut. 2d Artillery, in charge of road.
Captain A. A. HUMPHREYS,
U. S. Top. Eng'rs, charge Office Explorations and Surveys.
CAMP ON ST. FRANCIS BORGIA RIVER,
November 14, 1859.
SIR: I have the honor to report the arrival of my expedition with
the train of wagons, &c., at a point on this river 20 miles from the Bitter Root. The road is completed to a point within ten miles of the
Bitte Root. On October 20 the train crossed the Bitter Root range
without snow or difficulty, and by 1st November reached a point 51 miles
east of divide; on 1st November it began snowing, and continued a
perfect snow storm till 5th; with an interval of a day it resumed
with great fury, and attained with our rear camp a depth of 18 inches.
Our work still continued ahead, and on the 8th it turned suddenly
cold, thermometer below zero, grazing covered up, and little or no
browsing for the animals.
Here it beceam necessary to drive all the animals to the Bitter Root
river, where they are at present, though I have lost, unfortunately, a
great number, part from straying, most broken down, want of grass,
and cold weather.
I await a change of weather. If it should change for the better in
ten days, I shall try to reach the crossing of the Bitter Ro-,t river, but
the probabilities are against me, and hence I may drive all the
animals left to Bitter Root valley for winter, and try to resume work
by 1st April, and reach Fort Benton by August.
I shall try to avoid a deficiency by working with a reduced force.
But the department will see from the last summary statement rendered
what the condition of things would be, and hence I shall push on the




28               MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
work to completion, relying fully upon a favorable action by the
present Congress. Appreciating as I do, therefore, our own condition,
and the ultimate success of our labors, I shall push forward with all
the energy possible the work to a successful completion, whether it
involves a deficiency or not. As soon as circumstances shall have
matured my plans I shall despatch an express on snow shoes to WallaWalla, at which time the department shall be informed in detail
regarding our final condition-knowing the following facts to exist:
I have an abundance of stores for my party until we can resume
work; the snow now is eighteen inches deep, the river crossings
frozen mostly, the ground frozen and difficult to work our animals on
the Bitter Root river, and all that are left will go to the Bitter Root
valley to winter.  Mr. Engle has returned from Colville, and has
found a good wagon road connexion to that point. He started on the
8th instant for Fort Benton with a small advance party, and will
return January 1, 1860.
The department may rest assured that all things will be so arranged
that the best interests of the department and the ends in view be
attained. The probability is, we shall winter on the St. Francis
Borgia 10 miles from the Bitter Root.
I am, truly, your obedient servant,
JOHN MULLAN,
2d Artillery U. S. Army, charge Military Road.
Captain A. A. HUMPIIREYS,
Charge of Office of Explorations and Surveys.
IX.
MILITARY ROAD EXPEDITION,
Cantonment Jordan, St. Regis Borgia River, W. T.,
January 3, 1860.
SIR: My last communication to the department was dated on
St. Regis Borgia river, November 14, 1859, since which time circumstances have determined our condition for the winter.  When the
last express left our camp the depth of the snow was such as to cover
up all the grass and browsing from our animals, compelling me to
drive them to the Bitter Root river. Being still on the St. Regis Borgia,
and above some sixteen of its crossings, I feared that should I remain
at the point where the snow had caught me, in the opening of
spring, when work might be resumed, the freshet might be so
great that the beginning of effective work would be pushed far into
June. In order, therefore, not to be caught by this contingency, I
set the men to work and constructed twenty hand sleds, carrying 600
pounds each, and though the river was opened to within ten miles of
the Bitter Root, there was much yet to be done on it. We therefore
completed it properly below atl the crossings of the St. Regis Borgia.
My animals, on the completion of the road, being still on the Bitter Root,
I made the attempt to get them up and move down my train to a point




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                 29
below all the crossings, where I could safely winter my party. In
this I succeeded for my civil party, but my animals were not able to
move down the train of the escort. I lost some animals in the attempt; the remainder I started for the Bitter Root river, where I organized a small but efficient party under one of my wagon-masters,
Mr. Calwell, and sent the whole band to the Bitter Root valley to winter. The ice had already formed in the Bitter Root river, and some of
the animals crossed on it, and while crossing, the ice broke up, and I
came near losing my entire band; with the exception of one or two
being drowned, they crossed in salety, and started for the Bitter Root
valley on the 9th of December. As soon as this was done, foot bridges
were constructed over the sixteen crossings of the liver, and the sleds
were set to work to move the whole escort train also to the point that
I had now selected for our wintering point, for it was now evident
that there was no possibility of making the road any longer to advantage. The men had worked amid snow and cold till it was out of
the question to work any longer, and on the 5th of December, with
reluctance, I suspended work on the road.  The work of sledding
now began, and we have succeeded in moving down the whole escort
train a distance of eighteen miles with hand-sleds, in all some fifty
tons of freight, and are now m,)ving down the wagons, and by 12th
of January my two entire trains will be at the point where I now
write you. Having selected a point on the left bank of' the St. Regis
Borgia, and about 10 miles from its mouth, where the mountain formation rendered the spot sheltered, and where timber and water were
convenient, I set the men to work building first a storehouse for my
subsistence and other property, and then erected an office, in which I
am now working up all the material collected during the last eight
months. The weather has now become cold, and on the 5th of December the thermometer was 420 below zero. Having completed the
storehouse and office, I set the men erecting log cabins, and to our
winter home I have given the name of " Cantonment Jordan."  lJy
the 1st of Jat;uary my buildings were completed, when I told all the
men who were thus thrown out of' employment by the suspension of
the d,. k. that their pay would come out of the renewed appropriation, which I fully rely upon during the present Congress. Some
five in number were not willing to trust to the contingency, and preterred encountering the dangers of' the snow to Walla-Walla, whence
I have discharged them and paid them off. We are now some sixty
miles east of the Coeur d'Alene Mission, and I am sanguine to believe
that our worst work is over. I have much under-estimated both the
amount and character of the work to be done on the road, and though
I feel somewhat disappointed in my own person that I did not reach
the Bitter Root river, still the amount of work left behind us sufficiently
attests what has been done within the last six months.
I shall resume work in the earliest days of spring, by the 1st of
April at furthest. I have had examinations made of the line of location to the crossing of the Bitter Root, and from the best data, I estimate that it will cost us one month's labor to reach it by the 1st of
May. In November last I sent Mr. Sohon, my guide and interpreter,
to examine a new line from the crossing of the Bitter Root to the Hell



30               MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
Gate, which had been described to me by Indians and others, and
which would involve only one crossing of the Bitter Root. The line
examined in August last involved three crossings. Mr. Sohon had
with him a Flathead guide, and spent several days in its examination,
but the ground was then covered with snow to the depth of fifteen
inches, rendering it out of the question to pronounce definitely on the
line of location, but the probabilities aie that this will be the line of
the road, and which at most may involve two months of work; we
shall have then three months' work to the Hell-Gate defile, and I shall
endeavor to complete the remainder from Hell-Gate to Fort Benton in
another month, reaching the latter point by the 1st of August, provided I am not detained by high water on the Hell-Gate river; and
provided further, that contingencies which I cannot now foresee
shall not occur in the interval.
Every man, therefore, whose services I can possibly do without
while the work is temporarily suspended, will be paid out of the renewed
appropriation, so that I shall be enabled to complete the road with the
remainder. I have preferred doing this to lalllng back upon WallaWalla and not be able to resume my work in June or July next,
whereas now work of a necessary character (office work) is going on,
and the men on hand to begin work in the spring.
But I trust, captain, the earnest requests contained in my former
communication have met with at least a consideration; and that an
estimate has been already submitted by the department to Congress of
the amount necessary to complete the road. By reference to all the
roads made in this region over that line, you will find the average per
mile has varied from $400 per mile, as a minimum on the Steilacvomt
and Monticello road, to $1,000 per mile, as a maximum on the Salem and
Astoria road; and when the department will consider the length of
the line over which subsistence and other stores have to he transported,
and the character of the mountain work, they will not hesitate
to urge with earnestness a renewal of my appropriation.s But the
department may rely on one thing: as I was sent out to build and
construct the road, it shall be constructed.
The following work is now going on, all of which is necessary for
the accomplishment of our special objects. The office work is being
pushed ahead with all the vigor possible; and I send by this mail
copies and tracing ot those parts which, being partially completed,
may prove of the most value for present reference-the  work
on the different lines examined during the past summer being made
on a scale one inch to a mile, and all details put down ready for a
completion of our general map. A small party is now at the crossing
of the Bitter Root river whip-sawing lumber for the building of boats
for the crossing of this river in the spring. At the same point I have
established my observatory, which will continue during the winter;
we have already two months' transit observations at the same point,
and shall be enabled to determine the points of' our line with accuracy.
A party is in the Bitter Root valley with my wagon-master, in personal
charge of my animals.
Mr. Engle, who started for Fort Benton with a small patty to map
the line thence in order that I might arrange for the spring work,




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA                   31
has not yet returned. He has been absent since 8th of November.
1 had hoped that he would have been here before starting my express,
and I can only suppose that he feared trusting himself back, and must
be in the Bitter Root valley. If' he should return before spring, you
will be informed in my next express.
I sent an express to Walla-Walla on the 14th of November, and
on 20th of same month sent an additional expressman to the Cceur
d'Alene Mission to await there the arrival of the mail and to assist
them across the mountain. My expressman, Toohill, tarried at the
Mission until the 27th of December and learned nothing from WallaWalla; and the fears entertained were that the expressman and a
number of other men who were discharged from the (scort were
overtaken by a snow storm on the plains, and the men snd mails both
lost. I trust that this will not prove to be the case, but such is the
impression, as written me by the Jesuit fathers now at the Coeur
d'Alene Mission. My expressman, remaining at the Mission until the
27th of December, started for my camp with the Cceur d'Alene
Indians on snow shoes. They reached my camp on the 2d of January,
in five days, a distance of sixty miles. They report the snow on the
divide of the Bitter Root as five feet, and most of the crossings of
the Coeur d'Alene frozen over, and also many crossings of' the St.
Regis Borgia. Since they crossed the mountains the snow has again
fallen with us a foot, making the depth on the summit of the mountains
about six feet.
Though the weather has been generally uniform, still we have some
days of severe weather.  On the 5th of December the thermometer
fell as low as 42~ fahrenheit below zero, freezing the mercury, and
possibly a spirit thermometer would have shown a lower temperature.
The rear guard of my escort was left eighteen miles behind us to
guard certain stores until they can be transported below; and while
there one of' the men going out to hunt got lost in the woods and
mountains, and remained out tour days and nights without food or
blankets; he became frosted by the cold and became almost deranged,
but some instinct led him towards the camp, which he reached crawling
on the ground; he was immediately placed under treatment, but his
feet were so badly frozen that they became worse day by day; finally,
mortification taking place, there was nothing leit but to amputate
his limb'; to save his life and body the physcian cut offt one leg, an(l
the probability is that he will lose the other, if not his life. January
7, both legs have been amputated.  Mlany cases of' frost bite have
occurred where men were much exposed, but also yielded readily to
medical treatment. Many of' the cases arose because the men were
not well provided with boots, a contingency that I foresaw when starting,
and which I tried to meet by purchasing from the clothing department
100 pairs of boots, which I issued to the men, but the wear and tear
in the woods and the constant walking to and fro in all weather was
such as to take up the whole supply.
The men otherwise are generally healthy, and, though our prospects day by day are snow-clad and dreary mountains, are all cheerful,
and long for the opening of' spring. In order that the department
may tully understand in detail the condition of things and the abso



32                MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
lute necessity of.a continuation of our appropriation, I have deemed
it best to send Mr. W. W. Johnson as a special messenger to the
department, who has been with the expedition since we started for
the settlements, and who, as a civil engineer, has done some good
service with us, and the only man who could make the trip on snow
shoes into Walla-Walla.  I have instructed Mr. Johnson to return
via St. Louis and the Missouri river, and meet me at Fort Benton.
There are several instruments that I shall need, and a list of which I
herewith enclose, and request that they be ordered from Green's, in
New York, and be carefully forwarded to St. Louis to meet me at
Fort Benton. The command is now to make a more thorough
examination of the heights on my return to Walla-Walla in the
autumn of 1860. I shall not be enabled to send another express to
Walla- Walla before the middle of March, and this cannot reach Washington before the 1st of June, and I could not get a reply before the
1st of' August, at which time I shall be at Fort Benton. Therefore,
I will submit to the department my plan of operation in the opening
of the spring, to be modified as contingencies shall arise; and I also
submit certain recommendations, which I now earnestly urge before
the department, relying fully upon the fact that they can be necessarily cairied out. I shall proceed, myself, with a small party, to
Fort Benton, on the 15th of February or 1st of March, locating the
road as may be best, and at the same time bring over a portion of my
supplies, now there, for my party. I shall push the work with vigor
till the 1st of June, whea I may send forward a number of men whose
services I can best spare, to Fort Benton, to take passage on the
steamer. I shall push on the road with the remainder, reaching there
by the 1st, or some time in August. I have already at Fort Benton
a ninety-foot keel-boat, which I shall use in sending my party down
the Missouri.
When reaching Fort Benton I shall send down the renlainder of
the men, together with a number of the escort, whose times of enlistments will have expired, or near expiration, as an escort to those
men as far as Fort Leavenworth. These will be under an officer of
the escort. This will not only be necessary, but in the end more
economical than to discharge them on the Pacific. If the department
does not carry out the military movement I have recommended, then
I shall endeavor to dispose of as much of my outfit as possible to the
Indian department. The animals can be driven back; but it would
not pay to take the wagons back empty, and hence I shall leave them
at Fort Benton rather than pay the hire and subsistence of teamsters
to take them back. I shall then return with the escort and a very
small party back to Walla-Walla, on which trip we can correct many
locations made, as well as adding new facts to the topographical
knowledge of the country, and at the same time have a sufficient force
to repair the road.
But that which my mind has dwelt much upon, and which I submit
to the department for a special consideration, is the following, and
regarding the decision of which I ask to be informed at the earliest
dates, in order that I may provide for all contingencies that the movement must necessarily call forth.




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                   33
We shall reach Fort Benton with our road, say in August, with a
large and empty train, which has cost much. We shall then be compelled either to take this train back empty to Walla-Walla, hiring
teamsters for the purpose, or abandon it at Fort Benton. Strict
economy, and a desire to see the route practically opened by a new
line for military operations, therefore, prompt me to recommend to
the department as follows: That a detachment of three hundred recruits, or the number that may be needed to fill up the regiments now
in the department of Oregon, be sent, under tile charge of a juldicious
officer, from St. Louis to Fort Benton, in the American Fur Company's
steamer, in April or XIay, to meet our train at the same point, in or
about the time of our arrival. Let them start with four months' supplies from St. Louis-sixty days to be used up the Missouri to Fort
Benton. and sixty days on the march to Walla Walla.  Making use
of our empty transportations at Fort Benton, we can immediately return to Walla-Walla in safety and security.  I would therefbre respectfully ask that, if these recruits are sent, they be turned over
to my command at Fort Benton by the officer in command, and I will
guarantee to guide and take them to Walla-Walla in security and
with success, from which point they can be distributed by the department commander as the requirements of the service may at the time
demand. On the score of economy alone I will submit to the department the following figures for its consideration and comparison:
300 recruits from New York city to the Columbia river, at
the prices now paid, as obtained from books of Quartermaster
General's office, Washington, $200 cach....................... $60,000
Passage of 300 recruits from St. Louis to Fort Benton, at $30
each, (price agreed to by Mr. C. P. Chouteau, of St. Lo'iis)   9,000
Cost of transporting 36,000 rations, weighing, say, 108,000
pounds, at the maximum cost prices per pound, 10 cents..  10.800
Purchases of horses, &c., say..........................1........   1,200
Hire for forty teamsters for two months, at $50 per month..   4,000
25,000
Contingencies and rates of teamsters...........................  5,000
30,000
Saving in cost alone of $30,000, to say nothing of the additional
efficiency of the men, the effect upon the Indian mind, and the want
of the experiment of testing the value of a new line via the Columbia
and Missouri rivers, with a land portage of only 600 miles. During
the coming summer this can be more successfully carried out than at
any other time, for we have at hand the land transportation ready at
Fort Benton, and thus have the advantage of comparison of a line
within the limits of our territory by water, mostly with one made
with all the discomforts to troops, especially via the Panama routej,
through foreign territory.
This will not be to initiate a new movement, but simply a new,
method or route by which to transport recruits that must be sent out
H. Ex. Doec. 44       3




34                MILITARY ROAD FROM FOR1
by some route to fill up the regiments now in the department of
Oregon.
I am sanguine to believe that if these men start under a discreet and
efficient officer, and well clad, and with good shoes, and the number
of rations as recommended, they can make the trip in security
and safety; and I trust the department will pardon my asking that
the command be turned over to me at Fort Benton. Being only guided
in this from the fact that my long connexion with the route, and having
successfully opened it, and my present knowledge of the details along
the line are of such a nature to constitute a sufficient argument for the
request, and feeling a special interest in the success of my recommendation. I can carry out the movement without being trammelled by one
who is not familiar with the route and the general line of operations
between these two points. I trust, therefore, the department will give
the matter their special consideration; and whatever the decision may
be, I trust to be informed of it at the earliest day.
The Indians on this route are still friendly, and at present we have
no special fears for the future. I send by this mail, together with the
maps completed, certain reports of the engineers along the line relative
to such railroad statistics as have been made out thus far. A special
examination and study was given the line of the Columbia by its south
bank, (or left,) by Mr. Howard and Mr. Delany, and their reports I
submit herewith, together with the line of the road as constructed along
the Coeur d'Alene section, and from the Mission to " Cantonment Jordan," together with such of the country at and near the divide of the
Bitter Root mountains, and at Sohon's Pass, as we could complete before the mail left. You will observe also, from the accompanying profile of the road from the Mission to this point, the great difference of
level between the valleys of the St. Regis Borgia and that of the Cceur
d'Alene; and from the accompanying map it would seem that the
best tunnel line for the railroad might be by " Sohon's Pass" direct,
but this will involve heavy grades on both sides of the mountains for
several miles when the grades become easier and more unifobrm. But
I deem a more thorough examination of this special locality needful,
as I am sanguine to believe that we shall for the railroad line yet
discover a better pass. —(Side map, or line marked A B.) But taking
this as it is with a two-mile tunnel, we shall obtain 80 or 90 feet
grades, and steeper grades by adopting a shorter or a mile tunnel.
The question, then, for our present data will be to use either steep
grades and short tunnel, or more moderate grades and long tunnel,
or make a more thorough examination with a view of lessening both;
and the last idea is absolutely necessary in advance of any location.
That the directions on an east and west line of the two valleys is
remarkably favorable for a railroad location needs no augument. There
will be, as might be well anticipated, severe work both of grades and
curves, but none so great that will not yield to the skill of the practical engineer.
The line, or so much of it as lies along the Columbia from the
Dalles to the mouth of the Pelouse, is entered into with much detail,
and the basis upon which rests its peculiar practicability is given at
length. So far as the railroad is concerned, there is a break between




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                  35
the mouth of the Pelouse and the Caeur d'Alene lake, because the
line of the wagon road cannot, in the nature of the country, be the
railroad line.: My own views of the line would be to carry it up the
valley of the Pelouse to the Oray-tay-ouse, and thence take it northward to the Spokane, thence along its right bank to the Ccoeur d'Alene
lake.  We made use of steamer navigation on the lake (water fiftyfive feet deep) and river (water thirty-seven feet deep) up to the point
marked " Ten Mile Prairie," ten miles east of the Mission. There
the mountain line begins. From a detailed and special examination,
made mile by mile, we found that the nature of the ground was such
as easily to admit of a line of moderate grades and moderate curves,
with possibly short tunnels, through the ends of the spurs. The
difference of level between the valley of the two rivers here form the
principal problem of difficulties, and yet this is not so great but that
it will readily yield to the skill of location. I have had the St. Regis
Borgia examined to its mouth, and though it proved too expensive for
a wagon road, it is still the line of location for the railroad.
I will not here enter into more details regarding the line in our
advance. Suffice it to say that we have run the level line for sixty
miles east of the Mission, and fbund, both by barometer and level, the
height of divide5,100feetabovethe seaand 2,804 feetabove the Mission.
The map has been made in curves deduced from the level, aneroid, and
barometer. This is hardly the place to enter into detail regarding
all the data that form the basis of the conclusions of practicability,
but I content myself with the indorsement of the reports now being
prepared by the engineers of the route, who have had experience on
the Blue Ridge and Baltimore and Ohio railroads, and in the Alleghany mountains, to say that they regard the line eminently practicable, and as yet have met with no difficulty as great as those imet on
the latter-named road. I will therefore prefer to prepare and arrange
all the details to send the department for their own consideration. I
send also, by this mail, an itinerary of the wagon road roulte from
Walla-Walla to Fort Benton, as prepared for traveling; that from
Walla-Walla to this point being from our actual line of travel, and
the remainder being from our former surveys over the same line. The
snow with us at present is three feet deep, though the weather is mild
and pleasant. The Indians tell me that winter usually breaks up the
last of February, in which case we shall endeavor toYresume work in
March.
We have received no mail since the mail of the 20th of September,
and shall be compelled to resort to snow-shoes till winter is over. I
made provision for oats, &c., to be prepared in case I could use horses,
but this is impracticable. But we shall be enabled to determine with
accuracy the depths of snow and the intensity of cold along the line
in midwinter.
On the return of our express men I shall endeavor to send another
in April. When the cold weather set in I was compelled to kill the
most of my beeves to save them, and shall, I think, with economy
and a proper administration, be all safe on the question of supplies.
In a word, the department may rely, though our condition is not
such as I could well wish it, still it could be worse.




36                MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
As Mr. Johnson goes to Walla-Wqlla on snow-shoes with the
expressmnen, and will from there push on with all speed to San Francisco, and thence to Washington, he will be enabled to give the department in detail all that I might write, and give, indeed, all the details
regarding the actual condition of things up to date.
Regarding such instruments and other things, (a list of which I also
enclose,) they could all be turned over to the care of Mr. Johnson, to
be by him delivered to me at Fort Benton.
I am, sir, with esteem, your obedient servant,
JOHN MULLAN,
First Lieut. 2d Artillery, in charge of Military Road.
Capt. A. A. HUMPHREYS, U. 8. Top. Eng'rs,
In charge ofj' Ofice of Explorations and Surveys.
X.
MILITARY ROAD EXPEDITION, CANTONMENT JORDAN,
Bitter Root.Mountains, W. T., January 17, 1860.
SIR: Since my communication of the 5th instant nothing has transpired of note, except the arrival of our express from the Bitter Root
valley on the 15th, and one from Walla-Walla by three Indians on the
16th, the latter coming via Clark's Fork, with horses as tar as the
crossing of the Bitter Root river. They were a month on the way.
They report two feet of snow, the greatest depth met at any point.
The expressman from Fort Owen notified me of Mr. Engle's safe
arrival in that valley, fears having been there entertained of his loss
and that of his party. I enclose his letter, which is all the infobrmation I have from him. I daily expect him at my camp; when he arrives, I shall direct him to make his detailed map and report. His
letter shows that the condition of his animals rendered it necessary to
incur expenses not contemplated. With our present reduced means,
I regret to have to report additional expenses.
Our two expressmen, Toohill and Young, are each receiving $100
per month for winter service on snow-shoes, and these three Indians
with letters will cost me about $180. Thus do contingencies arise
that it is difficult to foresee, and these have to be met, or to be cut off
from mails all winter; and I regard the interest of our position too
great to let either risk, danger, or expense be considered, when it is
necessary to send intelligence to the settlements, the nearest being
two hundred and eighty-eight miles.
We are still pushing on the office-work, and hope by the opening
of spring that we shall haveevery thing worked up, and be ready for
new material that shall enable us to compile a complete map of this
region.
The snow with us is still twenty inches deep, but I shall have the
men on the road as soon as the ground will enable us to work it; at
present it is frozen.
As I informed the department, I shall go to the Bitter Root valley,
between the 15th February and 1st March, to prepare a pack-train to
go to Fort Benton for my supplies and to prepare for the location of




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                37
the road for spring's work. Mr. Johnson will have reached the department ere this with my several letters.
Intelligence from Fort Benton and Colville, equally distant, both
go to show that the unprecedentedly early winter set in with marked
severity, and, as the Indians to-day tell me, by two weeks earlier than.
they have ever known it.
I am, sir, very respectfully, your obedient servant,
JOHN MULLAN,
First Lieut. 2d Artillery, in charge of Military Rload.
Captain A. A. HUMPRREYS, U. S. Top. En g'rs,
In charge of Office of Explorations and Surveys.
XI.
FORT OWEN,
Bitter Root Valley, W. 17, March 10, 1860.
SIR: My last communication to the department, of 17th of January,
gave you all information up to that date. Mr. Engle was then engaged in preparing our maps and sub-reports. By the 20th of February all the maps were completed, and, with the exception of Mr.
Engle's, all reports finished, copies of which are herewith enclosed.
Copies of my instructions to chiefs of parties on the various sections
of the road are herewith also enclosed, and which will show in detail:
my programme of spring and summer work. My expressmen reached
my camp on February 19, on snow-shoes, bringing dates up to 20th
December, 1859, from the department, the latest that I have yet received or can receive before 15th May next. The report of the expressman on the depth of snow, cold, and condition of the road in
midwinter is also enclosed.
The winter, after 10th of January, was comparatively mild and
pleasant; and though I put the men at work on the road, carrying
supplies from the Cantonment to the Bitter Root crossing by hand, a
distance of fifteen miles, I shall not be able to work that section of the
road till late in April on account of snow, depth being three feet.
When the boats are constructed, I shall work with ease up the Bitter
Root till the time the grass along the river shall be sufficiently high
and nutritious for the grazing of animals to move the working parties.
The winter was most marked in its character; it began early, precipitately and severe, and, though long, ended mildly and moderately,
continuing from 2d November to 20th February. It has proved most
disastrous to our animals, which, being thin and reduced when winter
set in, were not in a condition to reach the Bitter Root valley in safety
through the snow and cold, when grass and browsing were covered up.
The grass had been all burnt by the Indians along the Bitter Root
river when we reached the Bitter Root crossing, and to reach the main
Bitter Root valley, with the low range of thermometer. forty-two degrees and snow two feet deep, was a physical impossibility; and I can
only regret that the contingency was of a character that human effort




a38               MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
could not foresee, meet, or remedy, and hence I have lost many animals-how many I cannot state definitely, as I yet entertain the hope
of finding some that may possibly have survived. I have, however,
enough left (that succeeded in getting through to the valley) to move
imy train, as I have thirty-seven oxen and twelve mules and nine
horses left, including those of' Mr. Engle's purchase. As my train
will be light, it shall be small, and we shall work the road with rigid
economy. The escort was signally unfortunate with its animals; but
it will have animals to move by May or June, when the road is opened,
as I send an express to Salt Lake merely to have certain animals (mules)
transferred to our service. At Salt Lake, only fifteen days' journey,
the quartermaster's department is selling mules for from $15 to $50,
and here they are worth $150; and hence economy and other considerations have dictated my course in sending to General Johnson an
express asking that fifty mules be turned over to the escort, if he has
them to spare. I trust, however, captain, that none of the foregoing
circumstances will militate against any movement of troops contemplated from St. Louis to Walla-Walla via Fort Benton this season.
For I can meet all contingencies of such a movement if it takes place;
and the only modification that I make to any former recommendation
will be that the quartermaster's department, in case the mnvement lakes
place, be directed to send with the troops to Fort Benton one hundred
and fifty (first-class) pack-saddles, with blankets, lash ropes, lash
straps, and packing rigging entire and complete. Supplied with this,
I can forward to Walla-Walla any number of men under three hundred safely, successfully, economically, and expeditiously.  If the
department is, then, disposed to act in the matter, it has all the data
necessary upon which to base a conclusion.
I left Cantonment Jordan February 26, and reached this point March
5, in order to carry out the object referred to in the accompanying
letter to Lieutenant White. I shall return by the 20th instant. Mr.
Engle, not being able to reach my camp during the winter, wintered
at Fort Owen. He has completed his reports and his map to Fort
Benton, and is now engaged in his map for crossing of Snake river,
as far as the line was surveyed by him. I shall organize here a packtrain for my supplies at Fort Benton, which will leave in April.
I send a tracing of the map of the line, as completed this winter,
by Mr. Kollecki, which has been very carefully mapped, and upon
which the approximate railroad line is located. To this I invite your
careful and scrutinizing attention, as I believe it is a practicable solution of the Bitter Root mountain tunnel and the location of the road
over the section of chiefest difficulty. Mr. Howard has given it much
study and attention, and the map and report accompanying it will
explain themselves.
My plan of summer's work is set forth in accompanying letters,
which will enable us to map in accurate detail a line that I can
but regard of marked value at this time.
The Indians are far from being quiet, and though we may have no
difficulty whatever, the elements of trouble are evident. The Blackfeet are in open war. How things may turn I cannot say, but we are




BENTON TO FORT WALLA.-WALLA.               39
prepared, I trust, for all emergencies, and prudence shall guide all
our movements.
Since passing over the Bitter Root river section of the line I can see
that seven years ago we much underestimated the work, and even now
I shall not give even probable estimates of progress. I can only say
that I hope to reach Hell-Gate in August, and Fort Benton in September, and such disposition of the party shall be then made as shall be
considered the most judicious. It is also probable that we shall take
the line of' "Brown's Cut-off," as shown on the map sent in January
last. I trust ere this that the recommendation of the department
has been indorsed by Congress, and that our renewed appropriation
has passed; and, the department knowing the condition of thing i, by
midsummer I would respectfully ask that an amount not less than
$25,000 (twenty-five thouuand dollars) of the new appropriation be
placed to my credit in New York, and that I be informed of the same
at the earliest day. I would also ask that the department forward me,
via St. Louis, by the American Fur Company's boat, another level for
our mountain work.
In case the troops come out, I shall be at Fort Benton in person to
meet them, and can direct all details, &c.
I shall write the department again in April, via Walla-Walla.
I am, sir, respectfully, your obedient servant,
JOHN MULLAN,
First Lieutenant 2d Artillery, in charge of Military Road.
Captain A. A. HUMPHREYS, U. S. T0op. Engineers,
In charge of Office of Explorations and Surveys.
XII.
FORT OWEN,
Bitter Root Valley, W. T., March 11, 1.860.
SrR: I have the honor to state that I have here secured the services
of the friendly Flathead Indians, wh, leave here on the 15th instant
with Mr. Sohon for Fort Benton, with a pack-train of eighty-five
horses, for supplies now at Fort Benton. They will rejoin me by the
last of April. In addition to the economy and expedition of this
arrangement, much good is anticipated from it, in arranging the unsettled condition of affairs with the Blackfeet Indians, with whom
disturbances have again commenced. I write to the Indian agent,
Colonel Vaughn, at Fort Benton, to send the chief " Little Dog" and
some of the principal men to meet me on a visit, in order that I may
assure their tribe that we come as friends, and in order to guarantee
our safe conduct while working the road through their country. Unfortunately for the country, there are numerous ill-disposed whites
and half-breeds among them, who, by a studied course of evil design,
are daily instilling into their minds things well calculated to
produce the most pernicious results. The Indians hence are much
exercised, and being in open war with the Pend d'Oreille Indians, are
disposed to be troublesome. I shall, however, by a judicious course,




40                MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
assure them of our good intentions, and am sanguine to believe that
the many conflicting elements may be so governed that much good
may yet accrue from our mission.
The Indian affairs in this quarter are not in the condition that I
would well wish them, and I fear, unless measures, speedy and remedia', are taken, that we shall have much trouble ere long in this region.
The Blackfeet are, I believe, if not meddled with, a good people, and
might be made better; but the evil elements are so directed that it is
evident that it is only a question of time that they shall be included
with other miserable and treacherous tribes. But I hope for the best.
I would state that during the past winter, when the snow had overtaken us, many of the settlers of this valley came forward with their
animals to our relief, and though their services were small, their privations were many, and in midwinter.
I have told them all that I will allow them a fair compensation for
the services of themselves and their animals, but that I can only pay
them out of the renewed appropriation. I shall make a statement of
the same on my accounts for the month of March. I return to the
cantonment on the 15th of March, having completed satisfactorily the
objects of my mission to this point. Trusting that the department,
appreciating the contingencies of our past condition and the possible
events of the future, will be disposed to indorse my views and recommendations,
I remain, truly, your obedient servant,
JOHN MULLAN,
First Lieutenant 2d Artillery, in charge of Military Road.
Captain A. A. IIUMPHREYS, U. S Top. Engineers,
Itl charge of Qlice of Elxplorations and Surveys.
XIII.
CANTONMENT JORDAN,
Bitter Boot Miountains, W. T., April 3, 1860.
SIR: My last communication to the department was of the 10th and
11th of March, dated at Fort Owen, Bitter Root valley. Having
completed there the objects of my trip, I returned to this point on the
28th of March. Mr. Sohon, my guide and interpreter, left Hell-Gate
on the 16th of March, with a pack-train of eighty-ive horses and
seventeen Flathead Indians, to bring me eleven thousand rations from
Fort Benton fromn the stores there, sent in the summer of 1859 from
St. Louis. I anticipate his return by the 16th of this month. I also
visited the Pend d'Oreille Indians to talk with them and assure them
of our friendly intentions. I also sent letters by Mr. Sohon to Colonel
Vaughn, the Indian agent at Fort Benton, requesting him to send
me a delegation of three or nine Blackfeet chiefs, in order that they
may see the true objects of our visit, and in order that we may pave
the way for a successful passage while working the road through




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                 41
their country. These objects gained, we shall, I trust, have no difficulty in regard to our relations with the Indians.
On returning to the crossing of the Bitter Root river I found the
ferry established, six boats constructed for the movement of our parties while working the road along the Bitter Root river, (forage not
being in sufficient abundance for our animals,) and the road constructed
and completed for ten miles eastward from the crossing of the Bitter
Root. The banks of the river graded at the ferry and ford half a mile
below, and the road cut by Mr. l)e Lacy's party for three miles westward from the ferry towards the cantonment, when the snow, still
eighteen inches deep, prevented the party from working further.
Finding that Mr. De Lacy's party could not work this section of the
road, on account of snow, I moved them to a point ten miles up the
Bitter Root, where I shall have work for two or three weeks, and
where I have now eighty-five men at work with picks and shovels.
At this point a bald prairie spur makes down to the river's edge, and
there is no way of passing it, except at the cost of heavy grading.
This once completed, we shall, I trust, have the road completed ior
twenty-five miles up the Bitter Root by the 1st of May. Reaching
the end of that distance I think I shall leave the immediate line of
the Bitter Root river and take the line of' "Brown's C(Jut-off," as laid
down on the map sent to the department in January last. I endeavored to examine this in detail on my return from the Bitter Root
valley, but the depth of the snow precluded the possibility of a satisfactory examination. I am sanguine to believe, however, it will prove
to be our best approach to the Hell-Gate defile. As soon as I despatch
the express for Walla-Walla, I shall go in advance (about the 7th of
April,) and, with the guide I have hired for the purpose, make a special
examination of the line, and my next letter to the department will
contain a detailed map and report on the same. The work ahead is
progressing satisfactorily, and the men, after a long, dreary, and cold
winter, are as anxious as I am to reach the Missouri. On account of the
snow, eighteen inches to two feet deep still, I am unable to work the
section of the road from this point to the Bitter Root ferry; but by
the last of April I hope to have the men on the road. At this point
the timber is so exceedingly dense that the light of the sun cannot
penetrate it to thaw the snow; whereas along the Bitter Root, where
the timber is open, and with a southern exposure, the snow has already
left the ground. Were it not for the dense, thick timber in this valley,
the snow would be off the ground by the 1st of April, but owing to
the thickly shaded forest it cannot be off till 1st of May. Thus has
the dense timber proved our most serious difficulty to contend with,
both winter and summer, while in the Bitter Root mountains. From
here to the ferry there are ten miles of heavy timber-work and grading
to be done, involving the crossing of a mountain spur 1,200 feet high,
where the continuous grading from base to base will be one mile,
mountain sloping at an angle of 50~. From the character of the
work I have estimated that the parties in advance will open the line to
the Hell-Gate defile by the same time that we can open the line hence
to the Bitter Root ferry. Should I reach Hell-Gate by the 1st of August I shall rest satisfied. This will give me to the 15th of September




42                MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
to work the road to Fort Benton, which will be ample for our purposes,
both for those who return to Walla-Walla and those who will descend
the Missouri.
I have moved our observatory, under charge of Mr. Weisner, from
the Bitter Root crossing to the Hell Gate defile, at the entrance,
where it will be established for one or two lunations, and I shall then
move it to the summit of the Rocky mountains, at the head of either
the Little or Big Blackfoot Pass, where, remaining one or two lunations, I shall move it to Fort Benton, in order to get there a good
series of observations, including the eclipse of 17th of July next.
We have five months' transit observations at the Bitter Root ferry,
and the work thus far has been very satisfactory. Our transit, which
is one that Lieutenant Jones had on the Colorado expedition, and our
chronometer, are all in good order and work well.
I found the party under Mr. Kollecki progressing rapidly with their
survey from the Bitter Root ferry eastward, and every detail of a
topographical character is noted down.
Mr. Conway R. Howard, civil engineer, accompanied me to Fort
Owen, intending to go with Mr. Sohon to Fort Benton to examine the
heads of the Little and Big Blackfoot passes for wagon and railroad practicability; but on reaching Fort Owen his old complaint of' a swelled
groin attacked him, and he was unable either to go or to return with
me, and I was compelled to leave him at Fort Owen.
Mr. Engle, not having completed his map of his summer's fieldwork, was also left there, and the cook, Crirarre, to cook for them.
My wagonmaster, Mr. Caldwell, accompanied Mr. Sohon to Fort
Benton to assist in bringing supplies over.
My animals are at the Hell-Gate ronde, in good grass, under charge
of Van Dorn, my principal herder at the cantonment.
Everything is ready for our movement eastward as soon as the road
shall be opened, the wagons, tools, &c., being put in complete order
during the winter. The men, with the exception of' four soldiers
sick in the hospital, are healthy. I regret very much to report that
the scurvy made its appearance among the soldiers on the 10th of
March, but by a timely supply of fresh succulent vegetables, purchased from the Pend d'Oreille Mission, the disease was abated, and
all traces have disappeared. The most remarkable phase of the
malady, however, was, that while some twenty cases occurred among
the soldiers, not one occurred among the citizens. The reason of this
was plain, when the department learns that the kind and quality of
the rations given the men were exactly the same, except in the case
of the desiccated vegetable. I issued to the citizens double the quantity of desiccated vegetables that Lieutenant White, the commander
of the escort, issued to the soldiers, the amount allowed the latter
being that laid down and issued according to the regulations of 1857.
The bean, rice, and vegetable ration form a unit. I issued half beans
and half vegetables to form the unit. The regulations say halt
beans, quarter rice, quarter vegetables for the soldier; but fobr the
citizen, who works harder, longer, and more than the soldier, the
allowance was modified to suit our special case, the unit still remaining the same. I enclose the report of the physician in this special




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                  43
case, as I deem it one worthy to be brought to the special attention
of the War Department. The desiccated vegetable has been but recently introduced into our service, and its true virtues as an antiscorbutic have not possibly been so rapidly tested as in our present
case, which proves that it is an antiscorbutic, provided the quantity
be great enough. Our men have been so situated that they could not
procure, at any place or cost, fresh vegetables, which case rarely occurs but with the army at the present day; but the snow and cold,
acting as secondary provocating causes, doubtless led to it. I would
therefore, based upon the experience of the past winter, recommend
that where any portion of the army is situated as we have been dur.ing
the late severe winter the amount of desiccated vegetables be increased, if not doubled. It would be well to ascertain the facts in the
case of the army at Fort Bridger, in 1857, provided the desiccated
vegetable was used there. But the winter there was not as long or
as severe as with us, and the men generally were not as much exposed. When the scurvy attacked Dr. Kane's expedition in the
Arctic regions, it occurred on the opening of spring, when, though
he was provided with antiscorbutic, his men were exposed to severe
cold and hardship.
1 am glad to report that this dreaded malady has disappeared, and
the men cheerful and strong. For the timely procuring the fresh
vegetables-the surest, if not the only remedy-I am under obligations
to the Jesuit fathers of the Pend d'Oreille Mission, who let me have
them at the expense of depriving themselves.
I also enclose the several reports of Mr. Engle on his several trips
of reconnoissance during the past summer, which, being written at
Fort Owen, I had not an opportunity to forward them at an earlier
date. They are full as to detail, and show in a truthful manner the
leading characteristics of the routes examined. Taking our main
line of travel and work as the basis of operations, these several reconnoissances show the side work, and, with the topographical notes now
being worked up, will, I trust, put the map of the country in a somewhat full and reliable light. I have sent Mr. De Lacy, with a small
party, to make a survey and report upon the Bitter Root river from
the ferry to its junction with the Clark's Fork, and up the Clark's
Fork to the Jocko river, and to the Pend d'Oreille Mission, when,
connecting the latter with the Hell-Gate defile, it will enable us to
map the country in a satisfactory manner. This line has never been correctly mapped. Governor Stevens sent Mr. Lander to examine and
report upon it, but he left no reliable data of his work; and hence, in
order to show not only this water course from source to mouth in its
true line, we shall also map the country between the Clark's Fork and
the Bitter Root. Mr. De Lacy starts to-day. Lieutenant Howard, of
the army, is in military charge of the soldiers in advance, and from
his co-operation I look forward to the best results during the coming
summer.
Our wagons, property, &c., under charge of a portion of the escort,
and commanded by an officer of the escort, will remain at this point
until such a time as the road shall be opened hence to the Hell Gate,
when we shall take up our line of march eastward; and I can only




44                MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
hope that three month hence the department shall be informed that
we shall have left another hundred miles behind us.
Any recommendation or suggestion regarding a movement of
troops, or regarding our appropriation coming now too late to be of
any avail or effect, I refrain from making them, but still am sanguine
to believe that Congress will be disposed to so act that our special
wants may be provided for.
To abandon the work when work is most required, and at its
maximum, might be in accordance with the possible action of Congress, but certainly not in accordance with my ambition and desire to
see the route practically and successfully opened, nor can it be in
accordance with the spirit that explored, projected, planned, and has,
thus far, constructed it. And though the non-action of Congress may
have the effect to lay my plan of progressing (even without means)
open to censure, still I feel that public necessity anl public economy
dictate that our work should be pushed on to completion with the
force now working it.
My express will return by Ist of May, bringing dates from the department to 5th March. I shall immediately despatch it on return
to Walla-Walla, reaching there 16th May, bringing dates to 5th
April. As soon as the high water permits, I shall have monthly expresses to Walla-Walla, and shall keep the department informed of
our progress and movements.
The snow at the cantonment is now eleven inches deep, but in the
timber hence to the crossing of the Bitter Root river, where the road
is to be located, the snow is still eighteen inches to two feet deep.
My mail will still reach me via Walla-Walla.
I am, sir, respectfully, your obedient servant,
JOHN MULLAN,
First Lieutenant 2d Artillery, in charge of Military Road.
Captain A. A. HUMPHREYS, U. S. Top Engineers,
In charge of Office Explorations and Sturveys, War Department.
XIV.
MILITARY ROAD EXPEDITION, ETC.,
Forty miles east of Bitter Root Ferry,
Camp in Bitter Root River, W. T., June 6, 1860.
SIR: My last communication to the department was under date of
April 3, 1860, at Cantonment Jordan. Having completed all my
arrangements at the last-mentioned point, I joined the advanced working parties, then working a spur of the mountains about ten miles
east of the crossing. This was tile first difficult point met with, and
upon which with a force of eighty men we were engaged about two
weeks, cutting for three-fourths of a mile a road along the spur of the
mountains, in places the grading being fourteen feet deep  a portion
of this was difficult on account of rock, which required blasting.
From this point to a point marked " Brown's Cut-off," which was




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                   45
marked on the map sent the department last winter, 25 miles east of
the ferry, our road lay over timber plateaus, the work consisting in
timl~er cutting and clearing and the grading of hills and the points of
spurs of' the mountains that made down from the river. From the
Bitter Root ferry to the first most difficult point the wo, k consisted in
cutting through open limber, and grading at points where the road
passes from one plateau to another; the formation along the Bitter
Root on both banks being a series of plateaus of different levels. By
the 201h of April the road was opened from the ferry to " Brown's
Cut-off," 25 miles. From  that point onward to Hell-Gate I was still
undecided relative to the location of the road, as I wrote to the department three routes presented themselves fbr examination: one
following the right bank of the Bitter Root; a second involving two
additional crossings of the Bitter Root, in order to avoid these difficult and rocky mountain spurs; and the third by "Brown's Cut-off."
This last I have heard much of from Indiens and others, and Irom all
the representations made of it I could only conclude that it was eminently practicable for our purposes. On the 20th of April, therefore,
with a small party, I started to explore and examine it; the first section of some eight miles up and near the "Nemote creek" (see
sketch) I found very good; for the end of this distance, however, we
entered a mountain gorge or narrow defile, where our progress was
impeded by rocks and fallen timber, which, however, proved not the
least of our difficulties. After clambering over this exceedingly difficult region for three days we encamped at the foot of the divide of the
mountains, with snow-covered mountains in view from every point.
On the fourth day we started to make the passage of the mountains,
when within two miles of the summit our progress was stopped by
three feet of snow, rendering it with the dense timber impossible fbr
us to travel either on fbot or on horseback. I had enough information, however, to convince me of its entire impracticability, and sick
at heart and fatigued with our exertions we were compelled to retrace
our steps back to the Bitter Root. I saw that, even had the topographical features of this section been at all favorable, the great
depth of snow would at all times form an insuperable objection to the
location of any road by that route. I had, therefore, but two other
locations to choose between. The one to follow the right bank of the
Bitter Root with all its excessive and difficult work in rock, earth, and
timber, to grade a road of five miles in length on the mountain side,
or avoid this by a shorter and easier line, but involving two additional
crossings of the river; neither of which crossings could be well suited
to safe fbrries, owing to the rapid water and high, rocky, almost precipitous banks. Truly the matter was not of easy solution.  On the
one hand. the great length of time (apparently) to work th. road, our
scanty means, the putting in jeopardy the opening of the remainder
of the line this season to Fort Benton, the probable necessity of the
line being needed fbr travel this season, the question of supplies, &c.;
while on the other, the disadvantages in our position, the difficulties
of additional ferries, the greater inconvenience to the travelling public, the increased taxes of tolls, the liability to have the ferries destroyed by Indians or swept away by freshets, and the delays to travel




46               MILITARY ROAD FORM FORT
naturally incident to frequent river crossings. These and many other
minor elements all tend to render my mind uncertain relative to the
most judicious course to pursue. The engineers of the party were in
favor of additional ferries, saying "that five months would be required
to work the five miles around the mountains," fearing from the exterior appearance of the mountains we should have solid rock nearly
the whole distance, thus compelling us to use the slow and tedious
process of blasting. By the first day of May the road was completed
to the western foot of this mountain, a distance of 36 miles east of
the ferry. With all the facts before me relative to the location, I
determined to avoid the crossings and to keep the road on the right
bank, and on the first day of May we began work on the western side
of the mountains with a force of 65 men —this being the greatest force that I could spare for this section of the line, for on the
same day I despatched 25 men to the Bitter Root ferry, under Captain
W. W. Delany, to open the line from the crossing westward to the
mountains towards the cantonment; this, owing to snow, we could not
work at an earlier date, and hence we left it untouched until such a
time as the advanced spring should cause the snow to disappear.. On
the 20th of April Lieutenant White, 3d artillery, with a force of 32
men, began work also from the cantonment to the mountains eastward to connect with Captain Delany. This line, 15 miles in length,
led through some of the most dense timber we have had in the line,
and involved a mile and a quarter of grading over the spur of the
mountains on the two sides. Rainy weather was much against them;
but I am gratified to inform the department that by the last of May
the work was completed, and that our trains of wagons have already
passed over it. On the 1st of June all the escort wagons made the
passage of the Bitter Root ferry in safety, and on the 4th day of June
my wagons started, and the whole train is now encamped at the
Bitter Root ferry, 70 miles from Hell-Gate.
We therefore abandoned our winter home on the 4th of June,
where the fetters of winter and our difficult work ahead of us had
bound us for six long dreary months. The advantages of our being
enabled to get below all the crossings of the St. Regis Borgia to find
a place for winter are more marked now than ever; for all the mountain streams are now torrents and swimming, rendering it impossible
without suitable bridges to cross them. But being below all the crossings our work hence to Hell-Gate will not be interfered with on account of high water, and I trust by the time we reach the Hell-Gate
all the streams will be fordable. Early in April I sent Captain Delany, with two men, down the Bitter Root in a boat, and thence up the
Clark's Fork to the mouth of the Jocko, and thence to the Pend
d'Oreille Mission, in order to explore in detail that particular section
hitherto unexplored, and report upon its adaptability fobr wagon and
railroad purposes and its general characteristics. We made two trips
and returned safely by last of April.
His report is herewith enclosed.  I also enclose the last of M.r.
Engle's reports, which, together with the map of the line now com'piled,
gives much topographical information hitherto not given in as accurate and detailed a manner as has often been desirable. When I last




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                  47
wrote the department, Mr. Sohon was absent with a band of Flathead
Indians, in order to bring me stores from Fort Benton. He returned
the middle of April all safely without any loss.
The delegation of Blackfeet Indians, under the principal chief
" TLittle Dog," accompanied him in order to be assured of the true
objects of our mission. They were well received, treated kindly, and,
receiving a few presents, returned much pleased to their people.
Certain malicious white men had, by false reports, spread quite a panic
among them, and they had augured anything but favorable objects in
our approach to their country. I am confident that by a prudent and
judicious course with them our passage will be fraught with neither
delay nor difficulty.
Knowing:that on our arrival at the Hell-Gate ronde our principal difficulty will be at an end, and the road hence to Fort Benton
easy of construction; and having wagons and many articles that we
should not need on the road, and which in the course of time will be
more available at that point than elsewhere, 1 directed a storehouse,
corral, and depot to be established at a central and notable place in the
1iell-Gate ronde, and which I have called "Camp Humphreys,"
where such things as we do not now need will be left under lock and key,
and where the presence of the settlers living in the valley will be a
sufficient protection to guard them for the present. Our observatory,
under Mr. Weisner, was established at Hell Gate until 10th of May,
where we succeeded in collecting six weeks' good observations. These
were left there; tried other fixed points where it would be desirable to
collect observations, the divide of the Rocky mountains and Fort
Benton.
But being desirous of observing the eclipse of 17th July, it was
thought best to move the instruments on the 10th May to Fort Benton at once to observe there till 1st of July, and then return and observe the eclipse and take other observations tor the month of July
from the summit of the mountains. At that time the atmosphere
will be clear and free from haze. At present in the mountains it is hazy
and difficult to observe; whereas at Fort Benton the sky and atmophere are clear, enabling us to make good use of the time. Mr.
Weisner arrived safely at Fort Benton the 20th of May. He crossed
the mountains by "Lewis & Clark's Pass."  I had thought that if,
with a moderate expenditure of time and means, I could construct the
road along the Big Blackfoot valley, it would be not only more
direct, but shorten the route some fifty miles. I have never been over
the Big Blackfoot myself, and I have been unable to gather from
Governor Stevens's report the amount of work that would be required
to construct a road. It is true, an itinerary is therein given by Lieutenant Donaldson, but I am assured, with all respect to his memory,
that it is far from being reliable, and does not probably include onefourth of the actual work. Witha view of ascertaining the exact character of' the line, I directed Mr. Sohon to accompany Mr. Weisner as
far as the summit of the mountains, and to thoroughly explore the
line with the passes at its head, Lewis & Clark's and Cadotte's, and
a third between these two. This examination proves the line-except
at great cost and time-unsuited to our present work. For 20 miles




48               MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
from the mouth of the Big Blackfoot the rocky spurs and canion-like
formation of the valley prevent any line except at great cost. This
examination of' the line, however, will add much topographical infobination to our present knowledge, which, together with an examination to be made in July by Mr. Kollecki and Mr. C. R. Howard,
civil engineer, will clear up our doubts regarding heights, grades,
and difficulties regarding the wagon road and railroad location.
In December last I had the section of the St. Regis Borgia cafion
from its mouth to Cantonment Jordan examined. It proved impracticable for wagon road purposes, but the trip was made under marked
difficultits. Three and four feet of snow and dense timber rendered
the exploration exceedingly difficult for the explorers, and they suffered much, one of the men being frosted by the exposure. The
topography of the country, however, indicated it as the railroad line;
and in order to satisfy ourselves regarding it, and thus make known
this unexplored link of twelve or fifteen miles, I directed Mr. Kollecki and Mr. Howard to explore and survey it. They started 25th
May; but having gone up it some three miles, the freshet compelled
them to return. They started from its mouth upward. They then
went up to the cantonment to try with a small wagon boat to descend
the St. Regis Borgia. They started on 29th May; but before they
got far the impetuous current and the difficult character of the
stream, rendered so by fallen trees, snags, &c., precluded the possibility of its thorough exploration.  We have information enough,
however, to convince us that it is the railroad location. The survey
of the wagon road and the adjacent country keep pace with our progress, and every detail is collected with much care, which will enable
us to show in truthful light the character of the line. The level line
is still being run, and the facts thus far collected prove most markedly
the erroneous judgments, opinions, and reports heretofore made of
this section by Colonel TV. F. Lander in 1853. The data will, at the
proper time, be in the possession of' the department. In order that I
might, from positive information, know something of the character of
the spring freshets, I directed the man-one of our own men —in
charge of the ferry at the Bitter Root crossing to construct a water
gauge, which has been done, and upon which we have recorded the
daily rise since the freshet began, and up to date. The Bitter Root
has risen eiyht feet, and, so far as the observations of our party go,
there are no signs of a greater rise than teu feet. The river reaches
its maximum rise by the 10th or 15th June, and then falls rapidly.
When it is known therefore that the banks of the Bitter Root are
from twenty to forty feet high, the danger of freshets to the wagon
or railroad line is either a chimera or a false assertion.
During the winter our expressmen measured the depth of the snow
on their several trips in every winter month, and from these we can
construct an accurate snow profile from here to Fort Walla-Walla,
and thus from actual measurement say how deep exactly the snow was
at any given point.
This has never before been done on any line; and from the fact that
both Colonel Lander and Mr. Beall were compelled or rather did
suspend work on their lines, respectively, early in autumn, to be re



BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                 49
sumed only late in the summer, is sufficient proof to my mind that
no winter reports can be made by these men; for if it had been practicable to winter on their lines, why was it not done?
In connexion with our present operations, I thought when the expedition should have concluded its field labor, that, in discharging
my men, I should cause one party to return east by way of Fort
Laramie, and thus explore a direct line from  Hell-Gate to Fort
Laramie. But the loss of animals, scanty means, and the danger of
doing it with a small party, have been sufficient to deter me from
attempting it at present, and especially now, since I learn that Capt.
Reynolds is about to do the same thing.
I am sanguine to believe that he will find from Fort Laramie an
excellent line to connect with our line either at the Deer Lodnge or at
the head of the "Little Blackfoot" river. I reported to Governor
Stevens regarding this line in 1854, and should then Ihave made it
had not my special instructions precluded it. Several times since I
have referred to it in conversations with Governor Stevens, Lieutenant
Warren, and others; and I also learned of Colonel Ferris, Indian
agent at Fort Laramie, that he had been over much of the line, and
represents it as eminently practicable for wagon road purposes. In
the Bitter Root valley are living many half-breeds and Indians, several Shawnees and Delawares, and they all assure me that an easy line
can be had, and that they are willing to go with any party sufficiently
strong to oppose either the Sioux or Crows in case of difficulties, and
guide them through it. I know not by what line Captain Reynolds
will travel, but should 1 learn of his whereabouts, I shall despatch
two trusty Delaware Indians to him to assist in his expedition and to
guide him safely. I feel much interest in the exploration of this line,
and for the great saving of distance and excellent country through
which the line will pass, am confident that it will become the emigrant route to the north Pacific; and in case of a central railroad line
along the Platte, Fort Laramie becomes at once the best and proper
point of deflection for the north Pacific, provided the link from Fort
Laramie to the HIell-Gate proves practicable.
The valleys of " Beaver Head," " Deer Lodge," Hell-Gate, and
"Bitter Root " are large and arable, and must at once become centres
of population. Indeed, even now they would be such, did not the
fears of the Blackfeet, Crows, Sioux, and Snakes render it a physical
impossibility.
Mr. Sohon has returned from the Big Blackfoot exploration. He
found five feet of snow on the summit, which, together with the cafonlike formation at many points, and in others on account of its rocky
character, renders it, with our present time and means, out of the
question for the wagon road location; and hence I regard that our
original line, via the Hell-Gate and Little Blackfoot, will be, even at
the expense of distance, the best line to follow. This line, as you
know, too, is free from snow in winter, and at all times can be travelled, and, looking towards the connexion with Fort Laramie, the
Hell-Gate line is preferable.
Regarding the work now in progress, I would state that, up to date,
three of the five miles of earth and rock grading is completed, and, in
H. Ex. Doc. 44- 4




MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
a itiw to two miles of earth and rock grading, we have fourteen
1es j-Work to the Hell-Gate. I find that, we have much blasting,
and $ikesent I have four sets of drills going every day; the rock
bei,4',"ard, flinty limestone, this has been inevitable. I have at
~reri  one hundred and twelve men on the road, and we are pushing
tlXr$h with our greatest exertions to reach Fort Benton early in
August next.
The freshet is high this year, and in places gives us much trouble;
streams will be fordable, however, early in July.
I have the honor to be, respectfully, your obedient servant,
JOHN MULLAN,
First Licut. 2d Artillery, in charge of Military Road, &c.
Captain A. A. HUMPHREYS, U. S. Top. Engineers,
in charge of Office of Explorations and Surveys.
XV.
MILITARY ROAD EXPEDITION,
Camp at Fort Benton, Nebraska Territory, August 2, 1860.
SIR: I have the honor to report the arrival of my expedition at this
point yesterday, the road of 633 miles from Fort Walla-1W4alla to Fort
Benton being opened. I submit the following summary of my operations since the date of my last communication with the department.
By constant and unceasing labor we were enabled to complete the
grading and rock blasting around the mountain on the Bitter Root
river, referred to in detail in my last report, and on the 20th of June
our wagons with our working parties moved over it as far as the Chilmo-e-pah creek, which we were obliged to bridge as the water was
deep and impassable for wagons. This was a heavy structure, being
148 feet in length, with four heavy cribs in the centre; it occupied ten
days' work of forty men, and is durable and commodious. Hence to
the crossing of the Skah o-tay creek, the road passes for a quarter of
a mile over bottom land; then rises to an open timbered plateau, along
which it continues for two and a half miles, and then passes through
somewhat dense timber for a quarter of a mile to the crossing of the
Skah-o-tay. A distance of two miles will be saved by constructing a
bridge across this creek at its mouth; but as this would have caused
at least a week's delay, we located the road up to the crossing about
two miles above its mouth. From this ford the road ascends a hill of
four hundred feet in height, and then taking successive open timbered
plateaus, crosses the Kul-ko-lau creek, and comes into the western end
of the Hell-Gate ronde, a large prairie basin, some twenty miles in
length by ten in width. This we regard as the termination of our
heavy work. We called our camp here Camp Humphreys, 336 miles
from Walla-Walla. Our wagons, with the working party, reached
this point on the 23d of June.
I deemed it most prudent to make here a depot of baggage and
other property not actually needed for our field duties, and also held




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                  51'
an auction for the disposal of such articles as were salable,:'with- a
view to disbanding my party and settling everything at Fort Benton;
according to instructions received. I transferred to the Indian- department such property as was no longer needed, repaired the train, and
on the 28th of June resumed our march up the Hell-Gate valley.
On the 2d of July we reached the crossing of the Big Blackfoot, a
distance of twenty-two miles from Camp Humphreys. We were
obliged to do some three hundred yards of grading in the last five
miles before reaching the crossings, the road leaving the level prairie
and passing over the foot slopes of the mountains. The water being
very high, we were obliged to ferry our wagons over, which was accomplished with only one accident; the boat upset, emptying one of the
wagons into the river, which gave us some difficulty befbre we could
get it out. Here we had a depot of supplies for our onward movement, a number of men were discharged, and we moved from here on
the 3d to the crossing of the Hell-Gate, five miles. An express was
sent to Major Blake with a reply to his communication of the 15th of
June, received 2d of July. The road to the crossing is over a fine
level, open timbered plateau; not much work required.  We had to
ferry the first crossing of the Hell-Gate, which occupied the entire
day of the fourth of July; five more crossings were made in the next
twenty-three miles, the valley being narrow (quarter of a mile in'width) and the river tortuous in its course. These fords were, at this
time, deep; indeed, at the fourth crossing, the oxen of one of the wagons
became unmanageable, turned down stream, and the result was the
drowning of an ox and a detention of three hours. These fords can
be avoided by side hill excavation, part in rock, which time would not
allow us to perform. The amount of work required on this portion of
the road to render it practicable at all seasons will be one month's
work of fifty men.
We were detained two days to cut a graded road over the butte at
the Beaver Dam creek, to avoid two impracticable crossings of the
river. We continued up the valley of the river, making nine crossings in fbrty one miles-in all, fourteen crossings. The distance from
the mouth of the Big Blackfoot is sixty-four miles; from this point
the valley of the Hell-Gate becomes wider, the timber becomes scattering and thin upon the mountains, and bunch grass covers the
valley and hill-sides. After passing mile-post 400, the valley of the
river is about a half mile in width, and the mountain slopes become
less abrupt; the road now leaves the river and crosses over rolling foothills, and through intervening bottoms for eleven miles, to Flint creek;
thence twelve miles to Benetzi's creek, it passes over nearly level bottom
sand. After leaving Benetzi's creek we made three crossings of the
Hell-Gate and two of the Little Blackfoot. These crossings can be
avoided by grading and rock blasting, requiring ten days' work of
thirty men. From this point the road passes for twenty-one miles
over rolling hills by the Deer Lodge prairie, and crosses a high hill
(elevation 1,000 feet) to the Little Blackfoot. This portion of the
road will be relocated to avoid ascents and descents, and materially
improved and shortened. To take the line via the Little Blackfoot
valley will require five days' work of fifty men. We were obliged to




52                MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
make a crossing and recrossing of the stream, which can be avoided by
a half day's work of fifty men. The present location of the line
hence up to the foot of the divide will require shifting up on to the
foot-hills to avoid soft ground; this would require two days' work of
fifty men.
On the 18th of July we made the crossing of the Rocky mountains
at Mullan's Pass, distance from Walla-Walla 469.8 miles. The ascent is easy, the descent to the east is steeper, but will not require to
double teams. The road was cut for a third of a mile through timber, thence with light grading and clearing along the Big Prickly
Pear creek to Fir creek, (476 miles,) where we were obliged to do some
two hours' work —chopping, clearing and grading. The road passes
hence over rolling prairie for 20.2 miles to the Small Prickly Pear
creek. In this distance we crossed six small streams, each of which
required a small amount of grading to allow the passage of our
wagons; we also did some 300 yards of earth excavation, which, however, delayed the train but little.
We remained three and a half days in the Small Prickly Pear region, being stopped by severe work on the Medicine Rock mountain.
As thorough an exploration as we could give the country at this time
showed that the only practicable line lay over the mountain, and accordingly we were obliged to do considerable work, principally in earth
excavation. After crossing this mountain, the country in advance
was still broken and knobby, the river flowing through an impracticable canion. We followed the trail for ten and a half miles, when the
valley becoming wider it was followed down for four and eight-tenths
miles, making twenty crossings-the trail being very rocky, and requiring four to six days' work to make it passable by the high water
trail. On the 25th of July we reached the last crossing of the
Prickly Pear, and also the last point where work of any account will
be required.
In reference to the region of the Medicine Rock mountain, I would
state that it is truly the most difficult between Hell-Gate and Fort
Benton, and compares unfavorably with any section of the same length
on the entire road. The ascents and descents are many and great;
and though three (lays were occupied in exploration, the location was
not satisfactory. It is believed that a better location will be found by
turning to the north, some of the spurs making down to the Prickly
Pear cafion. The ground is rocky and broken, rendering excavation
difficult. The line as worked was thought best at the time. What
is needed is a more thorough examination and additional work. Fifty
men for ten or twelve days could be profitably employed on this
section.
The road from the Little Prickly Pear creek to the Dearborn river
passes for sixteen miles over rolling prairie covered with fine grass.
Water is found at a point seven miles from the Prickly Pear.
The Dearborn river is about 120 feet in width. It is always fordable, with the exception of about two weeks in the spring. From the
Dearborn to Sun river, 32.5 miles, the road is over nearly level
prairie, passing by Bird-tail Rock, a prominent landmark, at the base




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                  53
of which is a good camp for grass and water, but no wood. Distance
from the Dearborn, 16.5 miles.
On reaching Sun river, the question arose about the route thence to
Fort Benton, the usual line travelled being by the lake and spring,
and a point called the Big Coulee, on the Missouri, 112 miles above
the fort; thence down the river to Fort Benton. This involves a
march from the spring to the Missouri of 22 miles without water.
Wood is very scarce, and the supply of water even is precarious. It
was, therefore, determined to explore four lines from Sun river in to
Fort Benton. Mr. Sohon, with a small party, was sent via the Mission across to the Teton river, with a view of ascertaining the feasibility of a detour from a point near the Bird-tail Rock, striking the
Sun river at the Mission, about 10 miles above our crossing; thence
passing to the Teton, and thence down to a point nearly opposite Fort
Benton, where the line would cross to the Missouri. I proceeded with
asecond party across to the Teton by a line leaving the Sun river
about a mile below the road crossing, while the main train in two
parties travelled the usual routes to Fort Benton. One by the route
already indicated, via the lake, spring, and coulee, while the other
proceeded direct from the spring to the fort.
The parties all met at the terminus of the road on the 1st instant;
and on comparison of notes, it is thought that the line from the crossing of Sun river, at the Agency farm, via the Teton, is the best for
wagon trains, especially when drawn by oxen, there being only one
camp without wood, and one march of 18 miles without water. The
supply of water on this line is always abundant and the grass good;
the distance, however, is increased 18 miles, but this is counterbalanced by the advantages of short marches and a good supply of water.
In order to determine the question of the practicability of the line
of the Big Blackfoot, Mr. Howard and Mr. Kollecki were sent over it
with a small party to make a detailed survey of it, and report upon
the amount of work required for a wagon road location, &c. The
report has not yet been prepared; as soon as received, it will be forwarded to the department. I can only state, as the result of this survey, that this line presents so much work as to be impracticable for
a wagon road except at heavy cost. Mr. Howard will prepare the
profile and report at Washington, concerning which I will address
you a letter.
On my arrival here I turned over to Major Blake all of my wagon
transportation. I now propose to return over the line of the road, according to instructions received from the department under date of
May 30. I retain one assistant and a force of about 25 men. We
shall move with a pack-train in advance of Major Blake's command,
and shall change the location of the road already mentioned in this
and my previous reports so far as practicable, and shall spend the remainder of the season in working those points most necessary for continuous communication at all seasons. From our examinations of the
Bitter Root river, it will be impossible for us to construct a bridge over
it this season. It is 440 feet wide from bank to bank, has an exceedingly rapid current, with a rise of eleven feet in the freshet. The
driftwood floating down it in the spring rise would sweep away any




54               MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
structure unless built with stone piers, for which I will forward a detailed estimate; but it would be safe to say that a structure suited to
this river crossing would cost not less than $25,000, or one-fourth of
our present means for the entire route. An examination will be
made of a line from the Cceur d'Alene Mission westward to the north
of the Coeur d'Al]ne lake; thence along the Spokane, crossing it+ and
connecting with the present line of the road at the Camas prairie or
Nedlhwaldk creek, with a view of avoiding the flats of the Ceaur
d'Alene and St. Joseph's rivers, which are impassable for wagons before late in July or early in August. Here a radical change of
location will be needed, and a new section of 25 miles from the head
of the Spokane to the Mission will have to be worked to get the most
favorable permanent location.
As soon as we reach winter quarters I shall prepare and forward a
complete and detailed report and estimates for the line of the road,
with bridges, &c., complete, where they cannot be avoided.
I am, sir, respectfully, your obedient servant,
JOHN MULLAN,
First Lieut., 2d Art., charge qf Mil. Road Expedition.
Captain A. A. HUMPrIREYS, U. S. Top. Eng'rs,
In charge of QOfice of Explorations and Surveys.
XVI.
MILITARY ROAD EXPEDITION,
Camp at Fort Walla-Walla, W. T., October 12, 1860.
SIR: I have the honor to report the arrival of my expedition at this
point on the 8th instant, and at the same time lay before the department a general summary of my operations since leaving Fort Benton.
My report to the department of August 3 gave an account of my
work to that date. Having completed all the details of my reorganization at Fort Benton, and having turned over to Major Blake all the
transportation that was available for his purposes, and having seen
that the party to descend the Missouri were properly provided for their
trip, I left Fort Benton, on my return to Fort Walla-Walla, on the
5th day of August, to carry out, as far as practicable, the instructions
of the department of June 3.
As I informed the department from Fort Benton, the permanent
location of the wagon road between Fort Benton and Sun river would
be via the Teton river, on account of the advantages of wood and
water; but the increase of distance can be saved during the summer
and autumn months by taking the route of the Missouri river and
lake. As Major Blake decided to take the latter route, I put my train
in motion over it in his advance, with a view of gaining time to repair
the road, and do such other work as was needed for his movement.
The coulee route referred to in my former report can be improved
by work, and will yet make a good road, by heading certain coulees
and ravines and working a new descent to the Missouri river, throwing




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                 55
the camping ground about three miles above the present point, known
as the Big Coulee. We came by the coul6e route, and on the morning
of the 5th of August moved over a very excellent prairie road to the
lake, distant thirty-five miles from Fort Benton. Fuel has to be
carried to this point; water is good and sufficiently abundant for all
purposes. During the spring and winter seasons the ground around
the lake is wet and boggy. On the 7th we reached Sun river; no
work required, and at night encamped on its right bank, at the
Blackfoot agency farm. Distance from Fort Benton, fifty-nine miles.
Here we tarried on the 8th to fit up trains, &c., and moved forward
on the morning of the 9th, camping at Bird-tail Rock, distance seventeen miles. l'he repairs of grading dry gulches, throwing out loose
stones, &c., occupied the working parties during the march.
It had been represented to me that a better route to the Sun river
might be found by taking a direct line from Bird-tail Rock to the
Blackfoot Mission, crossing Sun river at the latter point. On this
day I examined this line by going up Sun river ten miles, to the
Mission, and thence over the line to the Bird-tail Rock. I found the
ground rough and broken, involving many and severe changes of
grade, and the line not to compare with the one selected as the route
of location.
On the morning of the 10th August, moved sixteen miles, to the
Dearborn river. Total, ninety-two from Fort Benton. The work
consisted in grading dry gulches and ravines. The ground is generally rolling, with few changes of grade, and road good. No wood
between Bird-tail Rock and Dearborn river. There is an abundance
of water on Beaver creek, seven miles east of Dearborn river. This
is a running stream at high water, and has a gravelly bottom; water
in pools at this season of the year. The country here becomes rolling
and broken in all directions. The Dearborn river itself flows through
a deep gulch in the prairie, and below, where we crossed it, enters a
rocky caflon, and in eight or ten miles more empties into the Missouri.
Cottonwood timber is abundant on the Dearborn, and the soil along
its bottom is good.
August 11.-Left the Dearborn, and gained, in three-fourths of a
mile, the high rolling prairie ground. The work consisted in grading
dry ravines and gulches. Road generally good, involving changes of
grade, but none so difficult as to require doubling teams. Camped
on the Small Prickly Pear creek, distant one hundred and eight miles
from Fort Benton.
August 12.-Moved up valley of Small Prickly Pear creek, making
eighteen crossings of the same. These might be avoided by work in
excavation, partly in rock, for a distance of three miles. Some of the
crossings can be bridged; pine and cottonwood at hand.  It will,
however, be cheaper another season to work the road so as to avoid
the creek crossings. It is difficult to say how much time this will
involve —probably not more than five days' work of forty men; for
though the rock is decomposed on the surface, it is hard and solid in
the interior, and might require the slow and tedious process of
blasting. It would be best, at any cost, to work the high water line,
On the night of the 12th encamped at the foot of the Medicine Rock




56               MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
mountain, where it was necessary to remain on the 13th to do some
additional work over the mountain.
I was so unwell at this point, being obliged to be carried in a wagon,
that the supervision of the work of repair devolved upon Mr. W. WV.
Johnson. The work here consisted in improving the grade up the
mountain, which is steep, and must be changed another season, even
at great cost. After gaining the steep ascent, the road is good until
the descent to the Small Prickly Pear creek is made, when the road
is again steep, in order to make the final descent of the most western
spur of the mountain. Much work in grading was here done, both
on the 13th and on the 14th, when we made the passage of the mountain and encamped at its western base on the Small Prickly Pear
creek.
Morning of 15th August moved one mile and a half up a low bottom,
and, with a good road over rolling ground, in two miles more reached
Soft Bed creek; in two more crossed Willow creek, and at the end of
twelve miles reached Silver creek, where we encamped. The bed of
the creek being miry, we constructed a bridge of thirty-five feet long
and fifteen wide. Graded the banks of ravines and dry gulches during
the march. On the 16th August moved over rolling prairie, crossed
Fir creek in four miles, and thence to the Large Prickly Pear creek,
which we reached in two and a half miles more. Here we made a new
crossing, and after following up its valley bottom for a mile, recrossed,
and taking rolling side hills, along which the road is cut for two miles
in light earth excavation, followed up the creek to its head, and in a
mile and a half more reached the summit of the divide of the Rocky
mountains. Descended and encamped at its western base, two miles
from the summit. Placed mile-post, 149 to Benton, 469 to WallaWalla, on the summit. At another season it would be well to avoid
both crossings of the Prickley Pear creek by side-hill excavation,
which will occupy twenty-five men two or three days. The ascent
and descent of the Rocky mountain divide are good, and do not require
double teaming.
We performed some additional work along the headwaters of the
Large P'rickly Pear creek and Little Blackfoot, and avoided some six
crossings of the latter. The road was stony in places, and very sidling.
To place this portion of the road in good order occupied the whole of
the 17th, and on the 18th of August we moved down the valley of the
north fork of the Little Blackfoot. Threw a bridge thirty feet long
and fifteen feet wide over a slough of the stream, and then continued
down its valley, grading a few points which were neglected when we
first passed over it. In six and three-quarters miles, reached the
Little Blackfoot proper. Crossed this stream three times in the next
tour miles, the road being over level prairie bottoms. We then left
the Little Blackfoot, and travelling over easily rolling prairie, camped
on Livingston's creek. Made 18.9 miles.
Sunday, August 19.-Left Livingston's creek, and in a half mile
gained high rolling prairie ground. Passed a good camp-ground two
miles west of Livingston's creek, and in a mile and a half more
reached the summit of the rolling prairie and beginning of descent to
the Deer Lodge valley. Descended fifteen hundred feet in the next




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                  5 7
four miles, when we reached the prairie bottom. Crossed the Deer
Lodge creek four miles above the mouth of the Little Blackfoot, and
camped. Light grading, where the ground was sidling, occupied the
working party during the march. This crossing is ninety feet wide,
with good banks and gravel bottom. Cottonwood timber lines the
banks of the stream, there being no pine within five miles. The land
of this valley is excellent; wheat and vegetables grow well. A small
settlement is already made, and we can look forward to a dense population in this valley at an early day.
Having sent a party in advance on the 18th to explore a new line
to Benetzi's creek, to avoid the crossings of the Little Blackfoot and
the Hell-Gate rivers, I determined to take this line. Leaving the Deer
Lodge on the 20th, we moved up the level valley of a small creek for
3.3 miles, when we ascended over roiling hills, crossed a ridge about
400 feet high, and in 3.7 miles further reached Rock creek; the only
work being in grading a few gullies which were too steep for the passage of wagons. The valley and bottom of this stream are strewn
with boulders, the worst of which were'removed for the road. It
would be well to bridge this creek, which is 30 feet wide; good rock
for abutments is at hand, and timber sufficient for purposes of construction. After leaving this creek we proceeded over rolling prairie,
crossing a ridge about 250 feet in height, and in a mile and a half
crossed the valley of a smallcreek, which affords a beautiful campground and an excellent place for stock. Crossed this creek, and
still following easy coulees and gently-rolling ground, with but little
or no work reached Benetzi's creek, at our old camp-ground of 12th
July. The soil is of good quality throughout, and many fine farm
sites exist all along the valleys of the streams, while the hills afford
excellent ranges for stock. On Benetzi's creek building timber is
found on the hills about three miles distant, and fuel on the borders
of the stream. This line, via Rock creek, to the Deer's Lodge, involves more changes of grade than that via the Little Blackfoot, but
it is best for the permanent location of the road, avoiding, as it does,
the frequent crossings of the Little Blackfoot and Hell-Gate rivers.
Distance to-day, 151 miles.
Left Benetzi's creek on the 21st of August, and in a half mile
reached the Hell-Gate valley proper; we passed rapidly down the
valley over level ground; crossed Flint creek and camped on a small
tributary of the Hell-Gate after having made 22 miles. The work
of repairs on this portion was very light.
August 22.-Continued down the valley of the Hell-Gate, stopping for a few minutes at a small creek near the 400th mile-post to
fix the crossings; hence the road is good to what is termed the "four
crossing spur," where much work was done while we were here in
July last. Here the road is good and permanent. At the west base
of this the first crossing of the Hell-Gate is made, which cannot
be avoided. The ford, which is now good, is not practicable before
the beginning of July. The banks are four feet high, and firm for
bridging. The structure will be 100 feet long, with a small bridge of
30 feet across a slough. Cribs will be required; good timber is at
hand. The second crossing is a quarter of a mile below, and re



58               MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
quired a few minutes' work to improve it. I examined the side hills
with a view of making a high water road, avoiding this and the next
crossing. It will require 5,000 feet of heavy grading, part in rock,
and 130 feet of corduroying to avoid marshy ground. This line, in
passing westward, would, for 50 yards, then take side hills for 500
feet to gain high ground; then follows an Indian trail over sidling
ground to the head of a ravine till making the final descent into the
valley. The total length of grading will be 4,000 feet, transverse slope
350, and probably will require 30 feet of corduroying, the material for
which is at hand.
The line then would follow down the level bottom to sixth and
seventh crossings. The fords here are good, and can be avoided by
5,000 feet of heavy grading, part in rock. It is a question whether
to take the side-hill grading or bridge these two crossings, there being a point where the line may not be permanent after the grading
is done. This will require especial examination.
Made eighteen miles, and camped at the seventh crossing of the
Hell-Gate.
Moved forward on the 23d, and in three-fourths of a mile reached
the Beaver Dam Butte. Here we worked an hour widening the portion of the road already graded; thence the line passes for 31 miles over
a level flat to the eighth crossing with slight grading at points.
To avoid the eighth and ninth crossings will involve heavy work;
the trail follows for two miles over steep side hills, and, in my
judgment, will be practicable only at excessive cost. At many points
it passes over bed rock, and for long stretches continues over very
difficult ground. I examined it in person, and also the crossings of
the Hell-Gate. Eighth crossing would require a bridge of 100 feet
over the main stream, and a short bridge of 40 feet over a slough,
with probably some slight corduroying over a bottom now dry but
wet in the spring. From the eighth crossing the road follows good
ground till it reaches the south fork of the Hell-Gate; here it
passes over water-worn stones, and crosses the south fork in two
branches. Above the forks a span of' 75 feet can be had with good
banks, rock for ballasting and timber convenient. The road thence
for a quarter of a mile passes over good ground till reaching the next
crossing. The ford is at a gravelly island where the stream is divided into two branches of 130 feet each. A bridge here of 200 feet
in length will be required with heavy crib-work. Good banks can
be had, and all material is convenient. The road then reaches milepost 378, and for eight miles continues mostly through open pine
timber, giving a good, firm, broad road. It crosses two small creeks
with gravelly bottoms, when it reaches the tenth crossing. Here
graded 40 feet from a higher to a lower plateau. Both the tenth
and eleventh crossings are bad during the freshet. The high-water
trail continues for a quarter of a mile on the level flat, and then
takes the side hills, which it follows for two and a quarter miles
over very difficult ground, following the curves and re-enterings of
the spurs, which in many places are rocky.  It will be best to do
this grading.  The bridge crossings are decidedly objectionable.
The water is deep and swift, and a constant changing of channel




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                 59
takes place.  These are the last crossings of the Hell-Gate.
Thence for five miles the road is good to the Big Blackfoot. This
stream, although fordable at low water, is difficult during the freshet.
A bridge site can be had 150 feet above the crossing. The bridge
will be 125 feet long, and will require heavy crib-work, well ballasted,
to withstand the swift current in spring. The banks are very favorable and all material convenient.
From this crossing to Camp Humphreys, 25 miles, the road is
good, being over a level prairie with only a few miles of gently-rolling ground intervening.
Remained at Camp Humphreys till the morning of the 27th, reorganizing the train, &c., &c., when we moved down the valley of the
Bitter Root river to the Ska-o-tay creek. Here we changed the location
of the road to avoid the detour made in passing up this spring.
Graded steep side hill, which occupied a party of 50 men two-thirds
of the day, saving a distance of a mile and a half. Next season
a bridge of 40 feet in length, with 30 feet of corduroying on one side
and forty feet on the other, should be built so as to make this the
permanent line.
On the 28th the camp was sent forward to the "Rocky Point"
region; completed the grading, &c., of the Ska-o-tay, and then proceeded on to camp. The bridge across the slough, built this spring,
was in good order, and the road dry. The road through the "Rocky
Points," at the eastern side of which we encamped, is very difficult, and will require much additional work to be declared in good
order. There is one steep ascent of 150 feet, which it might be advantageous to avo d by building a bridge 200 feet in length, with
heavy trestle-work from 45 to 50 feet in height. Fifteen cubic yards
of blasting will be required, and the structure will have to be well
secured to be permanent.
August 29.-Moved the train through the "Rocky Points" and
made the passage of the " Big Mountain," encamping at its western
base. On the next day moved to the forks of the Nemote creek; here
two bridges —one 35 feet and the other 40 feet in length-were constructed. The soil of the valley is excellent; pine and cottonwood
timber are abundant, and the climate in winter is mild. This would
be an excellent point for farms on the main line of travel.
August 31. —Moved over " Brown's Cut-off;" repaired and improved
the road, and in two miles reached the Bitter Root river. A month's
work of 50 men would here save at least two miles distance, by keeping the line along the river. This involved too much work for our
party to commence it this season. At present double teaming is necessary in crossing "Brown's Cut-off."  At the commencement of
Brown's Cut-off we found the rock that had been left this spring
blasted out and the road improved, but still steep. The line might,
with advantage, be thrown above, to avoid heavy grades.  Road
thence fobr a mile is good; here we reach a small creek. Three days'
additional work of 30 men will be required to make the road good.
Hence for a mile road passes through open pine timber to another
creek, where a half day's work of 30 men will materially improve




60               MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
and shorten the line. Camped at Brown's prairie, 322 miles to Fort
Benton, 296 to Fort Walla-Walla.
September 1.-Moved in a heavy rain-storm down the Bitter Root,
work consisting in throwing out rock, making slight changes of location, and light grading at descents from plateaus, at ravines, &c.
Grades are good until reaching the "Ten-mile Point," where the
road will be improved by heavy side-hill grading.  Made camp at
the Seven-mile prairie.  From  this point to Hell-Gate, with the
changes referred to, occupying the work of 40 men for six weeks,
the road will at all times be in a good condition, needing only the
slightest repairs incident upon all roads.
September 2, (Sunday.) -Having finished the grading of a rocky
spur, moved down the Bitter Root, and in a mile and a half changed
the location of a steep plateau, carried the line over a saddle; cut out
considerable timber, and did some 500 yards of light grading. The
line had been carried over the rolling hills, giving quite a rugged
and difficult line, but by passing along the foot slopes of the ridges
quite a good road was had. Did not reach camp until 4 p. m. Party
moved forward, crossed the ferry, and camped on the left bank. The
mile-post here is marked 273k. The descents from the plateaus to
the water's edge were graded and improved. The river is now fordable one-fourth of a mile below the ferry; but as the ford is over a
gravel ridge extending across the river, it may be difficult for teams
to cross it. It would always be best to ferry the stream. The rope
is not yet stretched across, but a good site for the same can be had.
From the Bitter Root crossing to Hell-Gate, throughout the line,
there is an abundance of wood, water, and grass, and good campgrounds.
September 3.-Left the Bitter Root ferry, and, with 16 axemen and
14 with picks and shovels, began work in the timber of the Bitter
Root mountains. For 31 miles work consisted in trimming stumps
and throwing out loose rocks; at the end of this distance found the
road muddy and bad, requiring a corduroy bridge of 30 feet, which
was built. From this point for two miles the road is good, whence
to the foot of the mountain towards Cantonment Jordan the stumps
require trimming, which will take a day's work of 30 men. Road
over the mountain requires double teaming. It was not worked as
located and marked out originally, and needs changing to improve
grades. This, with work in other places, will occupy 30 men a week.
It will be seen from the foregoing that the work was pushed on westward of the Bitter Root crossing, at which point the instructions of
the department contemplated the construction of a bridge. This, as
I informed the department in August last, is a work involving more
time and labor than could possibly be put upon it at this season; and
my own judgment is that, even when constructed, the advantages of
it will not counterbalance the contingencies and accidents to which it
must be subjected from freshets, fires, and Indian depredations. The
span is 440 feet; the mean depth of water at the bridge site is 5 feet;
the rise of the river is 11 feet, and no settlers within 60 miles. It
would be safe to say that the cost will not be far from $20,000, or
one-fifth of our last appropriation. A ferry has already been estab



BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                 61
lished at this crossing, which acted admirably for the passage of both
Major Blake's train and our own. I have a large cable to stretch
across the river during the next season, which will render the crossing easy and rapid, and which, under the peculiar condition of things
in the country, will meet all the wants of travel. This will enable
the means that might be expended upon this bridge to be devoted lo
other sections of the line where work is much more imperative.
Still continuing the work through the Bitter Root mountains, we
crossed a stream 40 feet wide on the morning of the 4th September,
which will require a bridge another season. Thence the road for two
miles is good; following a plateau, slight repairs, such as trimming
stumps, removing fallen timber, &c., were done. At the end of this
distance the road rises to a high plateau, at which point the road is
miry at high water. This will, in a measure, be avoided by hugging
the spurs closely and grading into the side hills. Hence to the cantonment the line is good, with slight repairs of knolls and trimming
stumps.
From the cantonment to the first crossing of the St. Regis Borgia
the line follows good, firm ground, passing over easy plateaus, through
small timber. Upon a detailed examination, found that the first and
second crossings could be avoided by throwing the line nearer the foot
slopes of the mountains on the left bank, tbllowing high plateaus,
bridging two streams 30 feet etch, and cutting through timber for
one mile, which brings us to the third and fourth crossings, which
are very good fords at low water, but impassable in high water.
These two crossings will be avoided by a week's work of;0 men in
side-hill excavation, partly in rock. Road thence to next, or fifth
and sixth, crossings, distance three miles, is good; slight repairs
were needed in the way of trimming stumps, removing ftllen trees,
and grading at a few points, the line being over plateaus covered with
small open timber. To avoid the fifth and sixth crossings will require severe work in solid limestone rock for 400 feet, or bridges of
100 feet each.  The excavation would be preferable.  From  this
point to the seventh crossing (two miles) the ground is generally
good, with the exception of two or three small pieces of muddy
ground, which will require corduroying for, say, 50 feet each.
This brings us to the 253d mile-post. The six crossings referred
to are the widest and most difficult on the St. Regis Borgia river,
and by all means should be avoided by side excavation in preference
to bridging. Through this section the grass is good on the small
prairies and in the open timber, particularly at the first, second, fifth,
and seventh crossings, and also on the side slopes of the mountains.
The soil is gravelly.
September 5.-Continued the march and worked the banks of the
stream at the crossings, removed fallen timber, &c. The seventh and
eighth crossings will be avoided by 800 feet of heavy side-hill grading,
slope 40~; perhaps some of this may be in rock. From the eighth to
the ninth crossing is 300 yards, and 400 yards more to the tenth. The
ninth and tenth crossings may be avoided by 600 feet of side-hill
grading of the same character as previously noted. From the tenth
crossing the road is good for 150 yards, when it rises to a plateau




62               MILITARY ROAD FROM 1:ORT
which it follows for 400 yards, when it descends to the eleventh
crossing with grading, which must be bridged. The span is 110 feet,
and the banks are good. Continued for one-third of a mile, and made
the twelfth crossing. The bridge here would be 100 feet long; the
left bank is sufficiently good; the right bank will require an abutment. The general rise of the water at all these crossings is between
three and four feet. Line hence for 80 yards passes through a willow
thicket which needs to be corduroyed. In a few hundred yards made
thirteenth crossing, which will require a bridge of 100 feet; the banks
are good.  Thence for a half mile continued on right bank; road
good. Did much work of clearing, trimming stumps, and grading.
Made only two and a half miles, and did not quite complete the road
up to camp; built two small bridges and had the road completed up
to this point, the 250k mile-post, on the morning of the 6th.
This section of the road last year was worked under the marked
disadvantages of snow and frozen ground. The fourteenth crossing
needs a bridge of 150 feet, in two spans of 65 feet each. The line
between the crossings is generally good, but a few slight changes of
location may improve it.  Thus, though frequent crossings of the
stream are now made, only four bridges will be required. When this
and the side-hill work is done, 20 miles of the road west of the Bitter
Root river will be in excellent condition.
September 6.-Moved forward, and in three-fourths of a mile made
the seventeenth crossing, which is 120 feet wide; the banks are good;
bridge required. Road thence in 300 yards makes the eighteenth
crossing, which will require a bridge of 110 feet. Road follows left
bank for 300 yards and makes the nineteenth crossing; banks are good;
a bridge here of 110 feet cannot be avoided.  In 150 yards, road
reaches a large branch, which it crosses just above its mouth, and then
makes the twentieth crossing, which will require a bridge of 95 feet
span. Graded side hills for 100 feet, and in a quarter of a mile made
the twenty-second crossing. The ground here needs to be examined
in much detail to determine the amount of excavation required to avoid
the upper crossings; twelve crossings may be avoided by heavy side.
hill grading and 24 bridges.
Encamped at the thirty-sixth crossing on the right bank, and
marked mile-post 244. This point is what is known as the Five-mile
prairie.
Mloved on the morning of the 7th, and in 600 feet made the thirtyseventh crossing; and in a half-mile more reached the thirty-eighth,
which was altered; the road is good. From here to the next crossing
is a half mile; good bridge sites at both points; spans 80 feet each.
Continued on the left bank for a half mile, and reached a difficult
point, where we were obliged to build a corduroy bridge of 60 feet
over marshy ground; and reached, in a quarter of a mile further,
several crossings where the stream crosses and recrosses the valley,
near the foot of the mountain. These are all difficult, and will be
avoided another season by either heavy grading, part in rock, or by a
long heavy bridge, in order to gain a high plateau. The road next
makes the second crossing from the foot of the mountain, after which
it continues for three miles over high plateaus. Another season's grad



BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                63
ing will be needed, and the stumps will have to be re-trimmed. Reached
eastern base of the Coeur d'Alene imountains, and made the passage
with one upset; road generally good.
On the western descent of the mountain some springs have broken
out into the road, rendering it miry; the location will be improved
by throwing the line some 50 feet to the north, into the side hill,
making a good, dry road. We found but few land slips on the road
where it was graded along the mountain side last season.   It
will need repairing another season. The plateau at the foot of the
divide, and the road generally on this side of the mountain, need working. The second curve of the road along the mountain side needs
changing, and a general overhauling of the whole line should be
made before the line can be considered as completed for travel.
We worked twelve continuous hours without even a lunch, and
camped at night on the second small creek from the foot of the divide.
September 8.-Started at an early hour, and in 300 yards reached a
large creek coming from the north; changed the crossing here, and
in a quarter of a mile more reached a point where the river had
broken through its banks and taken the road-bed fbr its channel.
Fifty yards of heavy side-hill grading will avoid this point-say, two
days' work of 50 men. The line, for a quarter of a mile beyond this
point, is sidling, and will require grading another season; thence to
Long Prairie the road is good; stumps will require trimming. The
question had been with us, at one time, whether to take the road via
"Johnson's Cut-off," so as to avoid all the upper crossings of the Coeur
d'Alene, or bridge these crossings.  I made especial examination of
both routes, and found the bridge work, if made strong and secure,
would be by far the best, giving an easy and nearly level road.
Road for a half mile from Long Prairie passes over good ground,
through dense, but not large timber, to the first crossing, which will
require a bridge of 25 feet span. The banks are good; timber at
hand. In 100 yards made next crossing, which will need a bridge of
30 feet span; the banks are low. In 100 yards made third crossing;
bridge required of 30 feet; banks are 4 feet and 24 feet high, respectively. In 200 yards reached fourth crossing; bridge 35 feet span;
timber here is not very convenient; good rock for ballasting.  100
yards to the fifth crossing; bridge required of 30 feet; banks are
good; rock at hand. In 100 yards made sixth crossing; 35 feet span;
good timber, and rock convenient. The seventh crossing was bridged
last season; the structure is in good order. In 200 yards made eighth
crossing; bridge of 25 feet required, and in 100 yards more made the
ninth. These two might be avoided by side-hill work, it' not, will
require a bridge of 40 feet across the latter; banks are good. In 200
yards, through cedar timber, made tenth crossing; bridge of 35 feet
required; banks are good. 100 yards further made eleventh crossing;
bridge needed of 30 feet span. 80 yards hence to twelfth crossing,
which will need a bridge of 30 feet; banks good; rock convenient for
ballasting. This brings us to Johnson's Cut-off, where we encamped.
Marked mile-post 229. The road between the crossings above noted
is good, and needs but the trimming of stumps and repairs at mud
holes to be at all times good. Excellent grazing is to be had on the
side hills and up the ravine at this point, which expands into a basin




64                MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
some 300 yards in diameter and half a mile in length, enclosed by
mountains from 1,500 to 3,000 feet in height.  This would be a good
point for trains to encamp, and recruit stock if necessary. Animals
can also be driven by the trail over the hills to this place from Long
Prairie, which is only a mile distant from the head of " Johnson's
Cut-off."
Morning of the 9th, repaired a bridge over a slough at the 13th
crossing, 80 feet in length. This is the quicksand crossing referred
to in previous reports. This crossing will require a bridge of 40 feet
in length; the banks are not high. The road from Johnson's Ctt-off
to the forks of the Cceur d'Alne river (5 miles) involves fourteen
crossings of the stream. The work of another season in this distance
-will be repairs of corduroying and mud holes, in addition to the
bridging, which in detail are as follows: The fourteenth and fifteenth
crossings are bad, requiring bridges of 30 feet each, with 30 feet of
additional corduroying. The sixteenth crossing will require a bridge
of 50 leet span diagonally across the stream; timber which has been
killed by fire is at hand for the purposes of construction; rock also
for ballasting.  Seventeenth crossing, bridge 25 feet long; banks
good.  Eighteenth crossing, bridge 30 feet.  Nineteenth crossing,
bridge 35 feet. Twentieth crossing, a clump of large cedars on the
right bank; span 30 feet; cedar timber for structure. Here a change
of location from a lower to a higher plateau will be needed. The
twenty-first and twenty-second crossings might be avoided by heavy
excavation 200 yards in length; but as nearly all the side hills have
a slope of from 30~ to 400 and show outcropping rock, it will not be
found always practicable to take the line by theni; hence the absolute
necessity of bridging all the crossings, with the few exceptions noted.
The twenty-third crossing has a span of 30 feet, and needs corduroying
on both banks. The twenty-fourth crossing needs a bridge of 30 feet.
Here we enter large cedars, where the bottoms are wet and will need
repairing at all tirnes. Twenty-fifth crossing has a span of 30 teet.
Twenty-sixth crossing, bridge of 30 feet   Here examination is
required to avoid a cedar swamp and muddy ground. Twenty-s.eventh
crossing has low banks which can be spanned by a 30-feet bridge;
timber is not convenient, unless cedar is used. Twenty-eighth crossing, 30-feet bridge; banks good; timber convenient.  From the forks
of the river at the 224th mile-post to Mud Prairie, 15 miles, the work
of another season will consist in bridging streams, removing such
timber as may fall during the winter and spring, and repairing muddy
places. We moved, September 10, to within four miles of Mud Prairie,
doing much work in repairing and grading the banks at the crossings.
The road was, however, in generally good order, except at a point of
side hill within one mile of Mud Prairie, to which latter point we
moved on the morning of the 11th. As the road here was considerably out of repair I deemed it best to remain over in camp at the Mud
Prairie on the 12th to repair it.
Taking up the line at Mud Prairie, and going eastward to mile-post
224, at the forks of the Coeur d'Alene river, the line and bridging are
as follows: In one mile reach the second crossing of the river above
the Mission, which will require an 80-feet bridge; from 100 to 300




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                    65
feet of corduroying may also be necessary. Thence, for three miles,
pass over good ground, through timber of medium  growth, and
reach the third crossing, where work to be hereafter referred to was
done, and which involves a bridge of 90 feet in length.  In 200 yards
more reach the fourth crossing, which will require a bridge of 50 feet
span; road needs repairing, holes to be filled up; changed the site of
the abutments on the left bank; rise of water here is about three feet;
left bank here is three feet above water level, right bank two and a
half; ballasting rock is not convenient, unless gravel is used from a
bar close by. In a quarter of a mile the fifth crossing is reached; span
50 feet; right bank is four feet high, left bank from two and a half to
three and a half feet.  The road on the left bank will have to be
changed somewhat to suit the bridge crossing; ground is low and flat
and corduroying may be necessary.  Sixth crossing has good banks;
span is 45 feet; gravel is convenient for ballasting. Seventh crossing
has low banks; 50 feet span required; cedar timber is abundant, of
large size. Eighth crossing will need a bridge of' 80 feet; a centre crib
will be necessary; the left ba!,k is low and marshy for 30 feet, the
right bank is high.  This crossing should be avoided, if possible. I
examined the ground in person, but found that the line would pass
through cedar swamps and is almost impracticable.  Ninth crossing
will involve a bridge of 50 feet; right bank is four feet and left bank
two and a half feet ab,)ve water level; cedar and pine fobr bridge. The
ground was also examined with a view of avoiding the 10th crossing,
but found the work impracticable, except at great cost.  A bridge of
50 feet will be required here; the right bank is four feet high, left
bank two feet. Eleventh crossing will require a bridge of 50 feet,
with 50 feet of corduroying on the left bank; a small creek, before
reaching the 10th crossing, will have to be bridged als6.  In half a
mile more a branch from the south is reached; span is 90 feet, with
intermediate supports required. Twelfth crossing will require a span
of 50 feet; left bank four feet, right bank two and a halt feet high;
rise of water three feet. Between the south branch and twelfth crossings 100 feet of corduroying will be necessary.  Thirteenth crossing
has two branches, which require bridges of 50 feet each; main banks
three feet high, intermediate banks one and a half feet high. From
the thirteenth to the fourteenth crossing, a distance of four miles, the
road is ex, ellent, passing through small prairie openings and medium
timber; but few repairs will ever be required at this point. Fourteenth
crossing will require a bridge of 50 feet; left bank three and a half
feet high, and right bank two and a half feet high; rise of water two
feet; good timber on right bank.  In one mile more the fifteenth
crossing is made, 40 feet wide; banks good.  Sixteenth crossing will
require a bridge of 40 feet span; right bank is five feet high, left
bank two and a half feet high.  The road between the fifteenth and
sixteenth crossings will need corduroying in places another season.
Here we enter another section of cedar bottoms, which is wet and miry
in the spring and summer. Much additional work will be here needed
to make the road what it should be. From this point onward I examined the side hills on the right bank with the view of avoiding the
first crossing of the North Fork and the several small branches into
H. Ex. Doc. 44    5




66                MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
which the stream divides itself about the point of junction with the
South Fork, and which are bad and difficult during the spring. I
found the spurs rocky and precipitous indeed, rendering the exploration so difficult that I had to wade down the bed of the stream in
order to get along at all. It is out of the question to take these side
hills as the line of location, except at greater cost than we would feel
warranted in expending upon this section of the line. The crossings,
both of the main branch and the smaller ones into which it divides
itself, will have to be bridged and the ground corduroyed wherever
required. This done, the line will be good; at present it forms one
of the most difficult sections of the line.  The bridges across the
three small branches will be 25, 30, and 40 feet each, respectively.
The South Fork will require a bridge of 30 feet, at mile post 224-394;
a half mile above is the first crossing of the North Fork, where a
bridge of 70 feet will be required. The banks at these streams are
low; timber, as usual, is abundant; no rock will be required for ballasting; rise of water is about two feet.
Thus it will be seen, therefore, that the principal work both along
the St. Regis Borgia and Cceur d'Alene rivers will be in bridging
the streams, and the natural repairs incident upon the first opening
of any road. This, indeed, forms the principal difficulty upon the
whole line. Special study was given to this line along these rivers,
and the foregoing forms about as approximate an estimate of the true
amount of work as we could gather. As this will be again referred
to in a report of estimates of labor, &c., to be done next season, I
will pass on and resume the itinerary of operations on our route from
Fort Benton.
However, before leaving this subject, I would remark that it is exceedingly difficult to determine the rise of water in these two streams,
except at three points upon the Cceur d'Alene river, one mile below
" Johnson's Cut-off," where the highest high-water mark is four feet
above the present or low-wa er stage; the second some five miles above
" Mud Prairie," where the highest rise was about three and a quarter
feet; and the third at the crossing above the Mission, where the rise
is seven feet. The banks do not appear to be ever overflowed except
where only a foot or so above the water, and then for only a few yards
back from the stream.  On the St. Regis Borgia the water has a rise
of about three feet, but no positive reliable flood mark was seen.
Having completed the repairs of the road at the foot of the spur
above Mud Prairie, before referred to, we moved forward to the first
crossings of the Cocur d'Alene river. The work consisted in building a bridge across a slough in Mud prairie, 25 and 15 feet, corduroying 50 feet near seven-mile Prairie Saddle, and did 50 feet of side hill
excavation, brusbed the road from point to point where the ground was
muddy, besides other light repairs.  Camped on the 13th at the first
crossing of the river on the left bank.  Grass on this section is excellent, and the road, with a few repairs at another season, will be good.
It had been my intention on reaching this crossing to select a bridge
site, and should the work not prove too severe, endeavor to build the
pier and abutments this season. This crossing is the deepest and the
last to be fordable of all the crossings, and either a ferry or bridge is




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                 67
needed for travel earlier than July. The best site for the bridge would
be about one hundred yards below the present ford. The banks are
10 feet high, and the width of' the stream is 148 feet. The water is
five feet deep, and rises seven feet. By extending the structure some
40 feet each side of the river high ground will be secured. Timber
is near at hand. Without the aid of blocks and strong tackle I found
it not feasible to begin such a heavy structure as this would involve;
and as, in my own mind, the time at our disposal was to be conqpimed
either in bridging this crossing or the third, and finding here the
water not switt, so that our flatboat could be used to advantage, I
deemed it better to construct a heavy pier and abutments at the third
crossing. Having determined upon this, I sent Lieutenant Lyon forward with the larger portion of the expedition to repair the road
onward to Walla-Walla, and with twenty-five men remained behind
to complete the work. We were occupied ten days at this point, or
till the 24th of September. The width of the stream was 96 feet. We
constructed a triangular pier 24 by 21 by 13 feet, and seven feet above
the present stage of' water. The abutments were 18 fBet wide, and
about six feet high above water level. The depth of the stream was
18 inches, and its rise about three feet. The spans are 40 feet each.
Both the pier and abutments were filled with rock quarried from the
mountain sides near by, and will remain secure either against freshet
or drift. Having completed this much of the bridge, the stringers
not being thrown over for want of blocks and tackle, we resumed our
march towards Fort Walla-Walla, encamping on the 24th at the
Mission. Having placed in store at this point such property as was
not needed fbr our present purposes, but which would be available
another season, we continued our march along the right bank of' the
Coeur d'Alne bfor nine miles to the ferry. Road was good. Crossed
and moved down left bank to the mouth of the ravine leading to the
St. Joseph's. Road good, grass excellent. The advantages of this
valley, as referred to in previous reports, cannot be over estimated, and
are such as will attract at no distant day a hardy population to its
cultivation.
On the 25th moved over to the St. Joseph's river, crossed and encamped on the left bank. Road also good, excepting the steep places,
which will be improved by work. The grazing and soil in this valley
are excellent.
On the 26th moved on, crossed the St. Joseph's bridge, which was
left in good repair by Lieutenant Lyon, and after travelling eighteen
miles encamped at the springs west of the Lochultz. The road was
good; grass was, however, burnt; timber at hand for fuel.
Special examination was given the water marks along the St. Joseph's. Near the bridge the signs of water are such that the rise of
water must be not less than eight feet, or from two to three feet above
the banks, indicating that the entire lower portion of the valley becomes a lake at high water. I am convinced that it will be impracticable to make a high water road by following the present location via
the southern shore of the Cctur d'Alene lake and valleys of the St.
Joseph and Coeur d'Alene. We passed over this route in July without difficulty; but all things since go to show that a change of loca



68               MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
tion must be made in order to have a road capable of being travelled
at all seasons. The present route will always be practicable during
low water, and is admirably adapted to all the wants of travel, and as
an emigrant route, supplying the wants of grass, water, and fuel, will
not be surpassed. During the spring and freshet seasons the line from
the high prairie region to the west of the lake to the Mission cannot
be travelled. This section cannot be changed and thrown to the north
of the Coeur d'Alene lake. This was feared last year, but then it
was Sot intended to make the road by this route, but in obedience to
instructions from the department the line was carried as located.
With the view of ascertaining the amount of work required for,the high water road, I despatched Mr. Johnson, on the 14th September, with an Indian guide, to explore the line from the mission to the
outlet of the Coeur d'Alene lake.  His report, which is being prepared, and which will be forwarded by the next mail, would show
that no less than two months' work of fifty men will be required on
this section of twenty-eight miles, to make it practicable for wagon
road purposes. The line passes for half this distance through a densely
timbered region, and for the remainder through open pines. The
changes of grade are frequent, and in some places severe, except at
great cost. The general line is that travelled by Colonel Wright, in
1858, and which is given in the memoir submitted to the department
in the winter ot' that year.  This will have to be the line of the road.
From the outlet of the Cceur d'Alene lake the road passes through an
open timbered level country to a good crossing of the Spokane river
at Antoine Plantes. From this point Mr. Johnson followed what is
known as Mix's road, which, passing over good ground, comes into
our road thirty-five miles southwest of the Spokane at the Sil-sil powvet-sin. Thence onward, it follows good level and dry ground, passing between the two lines travelled by Colonel Wright, in 1858, on
his passage into and from the Spokane country. This line avoids all
the crossings of the Pelouse and its tributaries, skirts the Pelouse at
its great bend, fourteen miles from Snake river, and strikes the Snake
river at the mouth of the Pelouse. On it there is an abundance of
water in the spring, is well grassed throughout, and, in connexion
with our present road, to be travelled during low water, is sufficiently
supplied with fuel. It subserves, therefore, many advantages, and
forms a beautiful connecting link with our line onward to the Mission
and beyond. I will again refer to this in my report of estimates of
labor, &c., which will be prepared as soon as I complete the present
report.
September 28. —Moved westward; road is good, following, easily,
rolling prairie ground and level bottoms and flats for eleven miles,
when we encamped upon the Ned-l-huad-lk creek, 138 miles from
Walla-Walla. Grass was burnt, but found sufficient for our animals.
September 29.-Continued westward for 17 miles, over good and
easy ground, to the Sil-sil-pow-vet-sin, where we marked 121 miles.
The whole line being repaired by Lieutenant Lyon, little was left for
us to do. As a detailed description of this portion of the road has
been given in previous reports to the department, I simply give an
itinerary of our marches.




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                  69
September 30.-Moved forward to the Tcho tcho u-seeT, nine miles,
or 112 from Walla-Walla, and camped. Road and camp ground both
good. No water in this interval.
October 1.-Moved on to the O-ray-tay-ouse, 96 miles from WallaWalla. Road good.
October 2.-Left the O-ray-tay-ouse, and, with a good, nearly level
road, reached the Mo-cah-lis-sia in 13 miles, and in one more the
Peloune, which we crossed and encamped on its right bank, 80 miles
from Walla-Walla. Grass here not burnt.
October 3 -Moved down the Pelouse, crossing it three times at
good fords, and encamped on its left bank; grass and wood scarce,
but road good. Our original line follows the high rolling ground to
the Snake river, opposite the mouth of the Tukafion, but with the
change of location to be made, as before referred to, we determined to
follow the general direction of the Pelouse as far as practicable, and
cross Snake river at the mouth of the former.
October 4.- Moved down the Pelouse, crossed the stream three times
in five miles, reached the Colville road, and in 12 miles more reached
Snake river, crossed and encamped on the left bank. The road to
this point is generally good, and, with few repairs, at another season
will be an excellent line.
Moved on the old road on the morning of the 5th to the Touchet,
where we found the main port on of the expedition encamped, engaged in bridging the stream. As the bridge was not completed, determined to remain until all was finished except the flooring. Bridge
110 feet by 16 feet, with two cribs six feet high; four stringers with
65 feet of corduroy on right bank. This occupied us till the morning
of the 8th. As there was nothing hut cotton-wood at hand for a covering, concluded to haul out pine plank from Walla-Walla for the
purpose. Moved in to Walla-Walla on the s4th; discharged such of
the employes as were no longer needed, and began to prepare for our
winter's abode.
The line fiom Walla-Walla to Snake river, via the'roukafion, is
preferable on account of wood and water, and, indeed, the crossing of
the Snake here is equally as good as that at the mouth of the Pelouse,
but when it is remembered that, on account of the rapids and rocks
which obstruct the Snake river just above the mouth of the Pelouse,
steamers can ascend to the latter point much later than to the mouth
of the Toukafion, and this line forming the present travelled road to
Colville and northward, avoids the crossings of the Pelouse, which,
being swollen in high water, are difficult, and also from the entire
absence of timber fit for purposes of construction, can be bridged only
at great cost, it would seem to be judicious to take the line direct to
the mouth of the Pelouse. The disadvantage of a twenty-seven mile
march, without water, from the Touchet, is objectionable, and to
trains very serious. There is a spring on the road, seven miles from
the Touchet, which, by improving, may supply water to trains. I
shall attempt this either during the winter or spring, by preparing
tanks, &c. The road needs to be otherwise worked and improved.
From the Touchet to Walla-Walla the road is good.
The foregoing will give a general account of our work and opera



70                MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
tions since leaving Fort Benton, and points out the character of work
yet to be done to make the line permanent. Detailed notes of amounts
and character of future work have been made, which will form the
basis of my report ot estimates of work, which I will prepare and
submit to the department by next mail.
I cannot conclude this report without referring to the successful
passage of Major Blake's command over our road. His views will be
doubtless submitted in a report to the department.  For myself, I
feel gratified in seeing the changes that a year has already wrought
at points of the line. A settlement of seven houses when we started
has grown to seventy on our return to Walla-Walla.  Farms have
been opened along the line, and, with the improvements that we propose putting on the road, I am sanguine t) see ere many years a continuous line of settlements from the Columbia to the Missouri.
I am, sir, truly and respectfully, your obedient servant,
JOHN MULLAN,
1st Lieut. 2d Artillery,
in charge of Military Road Expedition.
Captain A. A. HUMPHREYS,
United States Togographical Engineers,
in charge of Office of Explorations and Surveys.
XVII.
MILITARY ROAD EXPEDITION,
Camp at Fort Walla- Walla, W. T., October 25, 18C,0.
SIR: I have the honor to submit to the department the following
estimate of time, labor, and expense yet needed to be applied to the
construction of the military road from Fort Walla-Walla to Fort
Benton, and at the same time a plan of operations for i he next season,
which, formed from all the data and facts before me, has seemed to be
judicious and economical, and which I am sanguine to believe can be
successfully and fully carried out.
As the department will gather from the report submitted October 12,
1860, it has been found impracticable to carry the line to the south of
the Coeur d'Alene lake, so as to make a good road for travel in spring
and during the Ireshets; and hence this section of the line must be
thrown further northward around the northern rim of the lake. This
involves then a direct connexion of the head of the Spokane and the
mouth of the Pelouse.
Such being the inevitable necessity for a high-water road, the line
following from Fort Walla-Walla to the mouth of the Pelouse will
be the line we travelled on our return from Fort Benton, and which
is described in my last report.
Crossing Snake river, it will follow the general direction of the
Pelouse to Cur creek, which it crosses at its mouth, and thence
avoiding all the crossings of the Pelouse; and its tributaries will pass
over an easily rolling prairie and plateau region till it strikes our old




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                        71
road at the crossing of the Cil-sep-po-vest.sin creek, which will not
require a bridge; thence on to the Nedlwhnalk, which it crosses
seventeen miles below our present road-crossing; thence in thirtythree miles it reaches and crosses the Spokane, either at Antoine
Plant's or where Colonel Wright crossed it in 1858; thence via the
Spokane and northern edge of the Coeur d'Alene lake to the Mission.
Mr Johnson's detailed report, submitted herewith, explains the whole
line and the exact character and amount of' work to be done.
I p)lopose, therefore, to start from  Fort Walla-Walla by the 1st of
April, reaching the Spokane by the middle of April, from  which
time to the  st of July, the earliest date at which any work.of bridging
along the Coeur d'Alene will be practicable, we will be %ngaged in
making the high-water road from the Spokane to the mission, and
which I am sanguine to believe will be ample time, unless some unforseen contingencies arise.
The following is the minimum force for the accomplishment of this
work; and the figures stated are the figures now ruling at this point,
except for mechanics, which I fear is too low, though obtained last
year at that figure; and it is fobr this reason that I have retained as
laborer and carpenter Hugh McEnen, who has been' out with me for
eighteen months, and who is willing to go at the same figure next
season; and being an invaluable man on the road, he is with me
herding, &c., till spring shall enable us to organize:
2 engineers in charge of parties, at $125 per month.......   $250 00
1 physician, at $125 per month...................................    125 00
1 wagon master, at $100 per month...........................    100 00
1 clerk and commissary in charge of property, at $125 per
month........................................    125 00
1 blacksmith, at $75 per month..................................  75 00
2 carpenters, at $75 per month....................................    150 00
12 teamsters, at $50 per month...............................  600 00
4 cooks, at $50 per month..........................................  200 00
35 laborers, at $50 per month...............................  1,750 00
Hire of extra duty men............................................    500 00
Making a monthly expense of...........................  4,000 00
All of which service can be employed at this point at the date of
organization.
The amount on hand at the end of October, after paying out all outstanding indebtedness will be, say........................... $5,637 50
Accruing from sales of property, say...........................  9,362 50
Amount yet to be deposited of the appropriation............  7),000 00
To which, add value of rations on hand, say.................   2,500 00
Total.......................................................... 87,500 00
Probable expense from November 1 to April 1, pay and
rations of employes, fuel, &c., say...........................   2,500 00
Leaving on 1st of April, available for road..................    85,00  00




72                MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
With this amount, I think it safe to say that, by exercising a rigid
economy and adhering to the figures below given, we shall be enabled
to outfit our expedition and occupy the field fifteen continuous months,
or from the 1st of April to the 1st of July, at which time we shall
reach and connect with the American Fur (Company's steamer at
Fort Benton.  My party disbanded and its discharged members guaranteed a safe and,leasant return to the Atlantic settlements
The approximate estimate of' time and labor would be therefore as
follows:
15 months' service, at $1,000 per month................... $60,000 00
3,000 rations, at 35 cents..................   10,500 00
6 wagons and rigging complete..........................   2,000 00
60 yoke of oxen, at $ 120......................................    7,200 00
70 yokes and cows, $500; chains, &c., $300..........     800 -00
Tools, consisting of axes, picks, shovels, blasting, carpenters' and blacksmiths' tools, nails, spikes, and iron
crowbars, &c., say.........................................    2,000 00
Camp equipage, cooking utensils, &c.....................  500 00
Expresses, ferriage ot Snake river, transportation.......  1,500 00
Contingent and incidental expenses......................  500 00
Total for fifteen months................................  85,000 00
In this estimate I have allowed only for those things which will be
absolutely necessary next season, and though the itemn of contingency
be small, I am sanguine to think we can work within the limits as
given. I have given the subject of our next seasons' movements much
study, and believe that the work can be placed in a condition satisfactory both to myself' and to those who will use it, by adhering to
the views herein contained.
Starting then with our expedition on the 1st of April, with eight
month's supplies, we shall reach the eastern base of the Bitter Root
mountains by the 1st of May, where our heaviest work begins.  From
this point our heavy trains can return to the mouth of the Pelouse
and bring up our remaining seven month's supplies, getting back by
Ist of June.
By the 1st of July our work and the supplies for the entire period
will be at the Coeur d'Alene Mission.  Here our bridge work begins,
and from this point to the Bitter Root river we shall have not less
than eighty bridges, as shown by my report of' October 12, 1860, in
addition to the side-hill work to avoid other crossings.
Dividing my working force into four parties, I have estimated to
be able to bridge each crossing in six days, or with my entire force
four bridges in six days, and ailowing for bad weather and moving
camps, say 16 bridges a month, or a period of five months for the 80
bridges, or until the 1st of December. This can be done, however,
together with the repairs of the road along the line as now worked.
This period will then bring us to the Bitter Root river, and to the
commencement of winter.
During this interval, the road being already opened in our advance,




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                  73
we can occupy our trains in moving forward our supplies to the HellGate Ronde. At the end of our Bitter Root mountain work our animals will be much reduced when they can have the genial climate and
fine grasses of the Bitter Root valley for the winter.
Our main canmp then, in December, can be established at the crossing of tihe Big Blackfoot river, which requires, as before reported, a
structure requiring much time and labor.  From this point I can distribute my working parties along the several crossings of the HellGate, referred to in much detail in my last report, and thus continue
the work of bridging, occupying January, February, March, and
April, and, after allowing fbr the contingencies of snow and unpleasant
weather, I believe this will be sufficient time for all the bridge work,
giving us Mlay and June fbr the side-hill excavations and other work
to Fort Benton.
Thus it will be seen that every month of the period will be occupied
by our parties in the field; but if we are compelled to move forward
and work the road in the Bitter Root range until snow drives us
backward, not one-half the amount of work can be done as we could
accomplish in moving forward and wintering our stock in the Bitter
Root.  My own conviction, then, is to occupy the field for 15 months
continuously, and reach Fort Benton 1st of July, 1862, discharge the
greater portion of my party, and with the remainder and my escort
return over the road for repairs, &c., to Fort Walla-Walla, and thus
put in complete order the entire line opened during the seasons previously.
The supplies for my parties on reaching Fort Benton, needed for
those returning and those descending the river, can be forwarded to
Fort Benton in the spring of' 1862, and which will reach there about
the date of our arrival.
I have in the foregoing endeavored to lay before the department all
the details of the work along the line; and the method which, after
studying the ground for the last two years, has appeared to me to be
the most judicious and economical to pursue in accomplishing it. And
I have placed the estimates low and at figures now ranging in the
country.
With the outfit stated, I feel warranted in guaranteeing the final
success of our work.
I would desire the department therefore to early consider my views
and plans so that I may be notified at the earliest dates.
It is highly important that I should be apprised of the action of the
department at the earliest day practicable, in order to prepare for my
outfit for an early start in the spring, as it is essential that I should
leave this point by the 1st of April.
Our mail facilities to Fort Walla-Walla are much interrupted
during the winter, having but one monthly mail. I would desire
therefore that all my mail communications be sent to me at Fort Vancouver, Washington Territory, at which point I may meet them in
person. I trust to hear from the department by January or February.
I would at the same time request that $30,000 (thirty thousand
dollars) of the appropriation be placed to my credit with the assistant
treasurer in New York city, and that I be informed of the same by the




74                MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
same mail. in order to prepare my outfit and organize my expedition
in time to take the field by the 1st of April next.
I am, sir, very respectfully, your obedient servant,
JOHN MULLAN,
First Lieut. 2d artillery, in charge of Military Road Exp.
Captain A. A. HUMPHREYS,
United States Top. Engineers, in charge
Ofice Explorations and Surveys, War Department.
A.
WAR DEPARTMENT, Office Explorations and Surveys,
Washington, D. C., March 15, 1859.
SIR: An appropriation of $100,000 having been made for continuing
the construction of the military road from Fort Walla-Walla to Fort
Benton, the Secretary of War dire, ts that your former plan of operations for opening that route be modified to suit the more permanent
character of road contemplated by the department in recommending
to Congress an appropriation for its construction.
In conducting this operation, your attention will first be directed
to making those parts of the route where the greatest difficulties and
most numerous obstructions exist practicable for the passage ot wagons
at all seasons of the year.
Immediately upon the receipt of this communication you will report
the nature and extent of the outfit necessary for the purpose of building
the road, and its probable cost; the number of assistants and others
whom you deem it necessary to employ, with their rates of compensation; and the expense of organizing and maintaining the expedition
in the field during sixteen months. Upon this plan being approved
by the department, you will, with your assistants and such employes
as it may be found advisable to engage here, proceed to Fort Dalles,
Oregon, via New York, where you will have collected and prepared
as soon as practicable the tools, materials, and outfit requisite for the
work, and employ such mechanics, laborers, and other persons as may
be necessary for the service.
You will locate the road from Fort Walla-Walla to Fort Benton,
as laid down in previous instructions.
The commanding officer of the department of Oregon will be directed
to detail one hundred (100) picked enlisted men of the infantry or
artillery, including a number of mechanics, with three subalterns,
and order them to report to you for duty either at Fort Dalles or Fort
Walla-Walla, as he may find best for the interests of the public
service.
The officers of the quartermaster's, subsistence, ordnance, and
medical departments serving in the department of Oregon will be
instructed to furnish the expedition, upon your requisition, transportation, quartermaster's stores, arms, ammunition, &c., provisions,




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                  75
medicines, and medical stores, the articles for the use of the civil
employes being paid for by you out of the appropriation for the road.
So far as it can be done consistently with the proper protection of
the work, you will cause working parties to be detailed from the
enlisted men of your command to aid in the construction of the road,
who, while so employed, will receive the extra pay allowed by paragraph 883, Army Regulations.
You will make such reconnaissances as may be nocessary for the
proper location of the road, as also the usual surveys over the routes
pursued by the expedition, and, so far as it can be done without
interfering with or adding to the expense of the accomplishment of
the special object for which the appropriation was made, every
opportunity will be availed of to gain information respecting the
region over which your movements will extend.
Such expenditures for books, smanll instruments, and repairs of
instruments as you may find necessary for your purposes you are
authorized to make.
Upon the completion of the work you will return by such route as
the condition of the party may render necessary or desirable, discharge
your employees, dispose of your outfit at the most favorable and
convenient point, and repair to Washington with such assistants as
may be required to complete your office work.
Very respectfully, your obedient servant,
A. A. HUMPHREYS,
Captain Topographical Engineers, in charge.
Lieutenant JOHN MULLAN,
2d Artillery U. S. Army, Washington, D. C.
B.
Rep(irt of survey of the wagon road from Fort Walla-Walla to Fort
Colville, made June, 1859.
CAMP ON PELOUSE RIVER, W. T., July 7, 1859.
SIR: After receiving your instructions to accompany Brevet Major
P. Lugenbeel's command to Fort Colville, for the purpose of making
a survey and map of the wagon road and i he country en route, I left
the Dalles on the 16th of May, 1859, and joined the command, which
consisted of two companies of the 9th infantry, United States army,
at Mud Springs, on the same evening, from which point we started
on the 18th and travelled over the usual route to Fort Walla-Walla,
meeting with no other difficulties except those occasioned by the high
water, which made ferrying and fording the different streams and
creeks more laborious than it would have proved. at a later season.
We reached Fort Walla-Walla on the 27th of May, and, after all the
necessary arrangements were completed, we left on the 1st of June.
Captain Kirkham, of the quartermaster's department, who was instructed to carry stores to Fort Colville, had started in advance of




76                MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
MIajor Lugenbeel's command with 32 six-mule teams and this train,
keeping all the way in front of our party, benefitted us very much, as
we had only to follow their tracks, saving us the trouble and delay
to look out for the best location for the wagon road, and enabling us,
besides, to avoid bad portions by making little detours. The road
from the Dalles to Snake river having been surveyed and reported on
by you previously, according to your instructions, I commenced my
work only at the north side of Snake river. Laboring under the
impression that you had also, in 1858, taken the direction towards
the mouth of Pelouse river, I neglected to run a compass line over
the country between the Touchet and Snake river, but having travelled
twice over that section of' the country, I am satisfied that I can give
a correct description of it. I submit to you this report in journal
form, as it will give me an opportunity to go more into the derail of
each day's travel.
June 1.-Left Fort Walla-Walla early in the morning, and making
a detour towards the west, on account of' a wet place which made
the usual route almost impracticable for heavy loaded wagons, we
struck Dry creek at the usual crossing place  Following from there
the well marked road we reached the Touchet river, and fording it
without difficulty, encamped on its north shore, having made 21.4
miles. I have to mention that my odometer measurement differs from
yours by 0.7 mile, originating in the westerly detour we were obliged
to make.
June 2. —Started at 5 a. m., and followed, for four miles, a good
level route on the north side of Reed Creek valley. There, turning
short to the north, the road led through a winding and gradually
ascending valley, with a dry water run. Two miles from the mouth
of this valley we discovered a small spring in a little side ravine, containing little, but very cool water. The road then turning to the
northeast led through a narrow and rather rocky canion, still ascending. At some points this caigon would widen a little more and close
up again at others, alternating in this manner for fbur miles, when a
high prairie ridge, which has to be surmounted, closes it up. The
ascent and descent of this ridge are not easy, but very practicable for
any kind of vehicle, and the top of it, which we followed for two
miles, winding about, according to its formation, offers a magnificent
solid road. The valley leading towards Snake river affords also a
good road, and bears in a general line about north by east, and
extends for twelve miles. The final descent to Snake river is accomplished by winding around the several bluff points, and is by no
means an easy one for wagons. Distance travelled 26 miles. The
want of water and of shade is keenly felt on this long and tedious
stretch, and renders it hard on men and animals. At Snake river we
found two ferry boats, one of' them belonging to the government and
the other one to a private company; the latter one will be transformed
into a flying ferry, and in this form will be of great use to the travelling community. The width of Snake river at the present high water
is about 350 yards, and the current exceedingly rapid and strong. By
a combination of adversities we succeeded in getting everything across
only on the evening of the 6th, and took up our line of march.




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                   77
June 7.-At 51 a. m. The ascent to the table land extending
towards the Pelouse river is exceedingly difficult, the bluffs being
from 900 to 1,100 feet high, very steep, and consisting, at those places
where the rock does not outcrop from the surface, of a sandy soil. The
river bluffs, which the road ascends. forms four terraces, of which the
first one is about 500 feet, the second 700, the third 900, and the last
1,100 feet above the river. After reaching the fourth plateau the
road gains almost level but sandy grounds, and keeping along the
easterly base of a steep prairie ridge, strikes, in four and one-half
miles, a ravine, which has a gently declining slope. In four miles
we reached the mouth of the ravine, and saw before us the deep canon
through which the Pelouse river forces its way. The almost perpendicular bluffs, which hem the river forbid any attempts to gain the
valley of the Pelouse, and the pedrigal character of the plateau
forces the road to make a detour of two and a half' miles before the
upper river bottom can be gained. I learned by information that
the Pelouse river, from the point where it enters the cainon, winds
tortuously from rock side to rock side, forming now and then rapids
and falls, which preclude any attempt of ascending its waters in boats
or canoes. The highest fall is six miles above its mouth; the water
presses there through rock cliffs not exceeding ten feet in width, and
tbrming a cascade of over one hundred feet, reaches the bottom  in a
pond-like rock excavation. One mile below our night's camp is another fall about forty feet high and immediately at the camp a third
one of fifteen to twenty feet. The width of the Peloulse river where
we struck it is 200 feet, with gravelly bed and low banks, affording,
at low water, easy fording places. Made to-day 12.5 miles.
June 8.-Started at 53 a. m. After crossing a little prairie ridge
we reached, in five and eight-tenths miles from last night's camp, the
top of a divide, (700 feet high,) which afforded a very good road,
notwithstanding the deep, sandy portions of it.  A rather steep
descent of 300 feet brought us to a small ravine, with very rocky
bottom, and following it for three and six-tenths miles, we struck the
valley of " Cow or Cheranon creek."  Ascending this valley for two
and seven-tenths miles, we crossed the creek, which is, at the crossing place, thirty feet wide, and went to camp, having made eleven and
fbur-tenths miles. Cow creek contains a small volume of water,
which runs in a very irregular bed with respect to its width. The
creek is scantily lined with brushwood intermixed only now and then
with a grove of white thorn and cotton-wood trees. The road through
the valley is much obstructed by little ravines and rocky elevations
with steep ascents and descents, but a little work expended on this
portion of the wagon road would render it perfectly easy. The bluffs
enclosing the valley are rocky and bare of timber; they vary very
much in height and slope, and appear to become steeper and more
rugged the nearer they approach the Pelouse river valley.
June 9.-After ascending the easterly bluff, (400 feet,) which was
only effected by doubling teams, and even then with great exertions
to the animals, we reached a level plateau bordered to the south by a
prairie ridge of 300 feet in height.  Following this plateau in a
northeasterly direction for two and a half miles, the road gains by an




78               MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
abrupt slope a second plateau, elevated 50 feet over the first one.
Passing between two prairie ridges, which gradually sloped between
Cow creek, we reached in four and a half miles a basaltic broken up
country, which extends for many miles in an easterly direction; but
at the point where we crossed it, it has only a width of half a mile.
Passing again between some isolated prairie ridges of a few hundred
feet altitude, we struck, after three and a half miles, another basaltic
bed, which extended to our camping ground, and was only occasionally
interrupted by dry alkaline lakes which offered a firm and level road.
Four and a half miles before reaching camp we passed a fresh water
pond thickly covered with weeds and reeds, and surrounded by marshy
ground. This pond and a little water-pool close by are the only
watering places on this long and tiresome stretch. Coming to a creek
which is said to run into " Big lake," but which, in my opinion, sinks
into the ground or forms a blanch of Cow creek, Major Lugenbeel
turned off from Captain Kirkharn's tracks and went up the creek,
selecting his camping ground at a half mile distance; made twenty
and three-tenths miles. Captain Kirkham, as we had learned, had
taken his road through " the canon," and with hard work and much
labor succeeded in getting his wagons through, though not without
injury to them. This cafnon is a narrow and winding valley of about
two miles extent, filled with pedrigal rocks, which encumbered the
passage of' wagons considerably. Major Lugenbeel accepted, therefore, the offer of an old Spokane chief, " Big Star," to guide his train
a different and better route. The creek we camped on has sufficient
water in holes, and is bordered with brush at the camping ground;
but further below we saw big trees; grass is good, but not over abundant. I had to-day twice an opportunity to see Pyramid peak, and
took bearings to it.
June 10. —Resumed our march at 51 a. m., and travelled for three
and a halt miles through level ravines, interrupted by two low
divides. From the tops of the second divide we saw the " Big lake"
before us with its pine-clad hills at the northeasterly end. A gentle
slope of two miles brought us to the water's edge, and also to Captain
Kirkham's ioad. The lake is surrounded by low hills; some of them
are rocky and precipitous; others again are of gentle grade; both
shores of the lake are entirely destitute of timber, and at few spots
only brushwood can be found. Weeds and water plants cover the
surface on both shores for about one hundred feet, and fbrm a fresh,
green garland round the quiet, glistening water sheet  Travelling
along the easterly shore for two miles we reached a point where, by
a succession of' rocky points, which extended far into the water, our
road turned off from the shore, leading through little ravines and
coulees which connected prettily with each other. Striking after
one and a half mile the lake again, we reached again after threequarters of a mile the northeasterly end of it, and turning short to
the east we passed a luxuriant cotton-wood grove, and following up a
wide bottom, which affords a good road in dry seasons, we crossed a
little, marshy water-run, and camped near a spring which sends its
icy waters to the lake; made thirteen miles. The lake bears the
name of " Big lake" in all the Indian languages; it has a length of




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                  79
six miles and a width varying from one-half to three-quarters of a
mile. The water is not fresh, and has a swampy taste; but it may
be that the plants and reeds on the shores may account for that.  One
rocky island, three quarters of a mile in length, is situated one mile
from its southerly end. I took to-day one more bearing to Pyramid
peak.
June 11.-Started 5.24 a. m.  After ascending the small hill
bordering our camping ground to the north, the road led for four
and three-quarters miles over rolling prairie ground in the form of a
valley, enclosed by distinct, though low, hill ridges; striking then a
marshy bottom which contains a little water-run, now and then enlarging to a pond, we followed it upwards for two and a quarter miles,
and passing over a low divide, which is partially covered with pine
timber, struck in one apd a half mile Rock creek. This creek is fifteen feet wide, has a rocky bed, and is bordered by a luxuriant growth
of large timber. The'whole appearance ot it denotes it as a mountain
stream of some length. Lake Nechnichen, some sixteen miles northwest of the crossing point, receives its waters. In six and three-quarter miles, which were travelled over a gently undulating ground,
enclosed by isolated prairie ridges, we entered an open pine-timbered
forest, which is filled with innumerable little ponds and cut up by pedrigal rocks cropping out from the ground in great abundance. We
passed over this kind of ground for three miles, and then striking the
Spokane prairie went to camp on the head spring of Willow creek,
having made twenty-two and four-tenth miles.  Willow creek flows
into Spokane river about four miles above the old Spokane house  Its
borders are well lined with cotton-wood, and the hills around are covered with scattered pines. After the spring freshet the creek sinks,
rising only at intervals to the surface. The valley of Willow creek is
well marked to the east by disconnected ridges, which are bare near
the head spring; but those nearer to the Spokane river are well timbered and of greater altitude. The most prominent peak is called
Shkolsum or Bark mountain, and constitutes a good landmark. I
saw plenty of snow yet on its tops, and to judge from that circumstance it must have a considerable elevation.
June 12.-Started at 5.40 a. m. Traversing a gentle prairie ridge
we struck in three miles Muddy creek, a tributary of Willow creek.
A marshy and timberless depression in the prairie forms a valley for
this small water-run, and which requires a corduroy to allow wagons
to pass. Five and a quarter miles further over ground of the same
rolling character we reached a spring, and descended in one mile from
there to the "Grand Coulee" by a very steep grade. The soil, which
up to Muddy creek has shown no indication of great fertility, becomes,
from that last mentioned point onward, very productive; high and
rich grass intermixed with flowers covers the hills, and groves of
luxuriant trees are dotted all over the country. The " Grand Coulee"
contains a rapid flowing creek of six to eight feet in width, which runs
into Spokane river, and its side slopes are densely timbered to the
water's edge. The ascent from the coulee is also very steep, but the pull
is short. The next four miles of the road, which brought us to the brink
of the highest terrace of the Spokane river valley, led across an undula



80                MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
ting prairie country, frequently intercepted by strips of pine timber,
which formed a communication with the large track of timber land
lying to the east. The descent from the high plateau to the lower
one is accomplished by following a long spur which strikes an intermediate gentle slope, which enabled us to gain the lower plateau by a
curve. Following the foot line of the plateau slope, through open timber in a southwesterly direction for a mile and a quarter, we struck a
sandy ravine, which brought us by a gentle grade in a mile and threequarters to the water's edge of Spokane river, at a point where a private company has established a ferry. Having made eighteen miles
we encamped on the left bank of the river where preparations were
made for the crossing.
June 13, at 12j p. m.-Everything having been ferried over we
resumed the march. Ascending the river for two miles over rocky
ground covered with open timber, we reached a point where the road
leads up a narrow rocky ravine, in changing its course to a northerly
direction. This bad place and the detour which it involves could
have been avoided if the attempt had been made to ascend the plateau
by the ravine which the trail follows, which would shorten the distance to " Walker's prairie" by four miles. The road which we followed gains the plateau by the aforesaid rocky ravine at the foot slope
of a well marked rocky mountain, which forms the abrupt termination of a ridge bordering Walker's prairie to the east; keeping along
that ridge we passed for six and a half miles on almost level ground
through open timber, diversified occasionally by small prairies. Emerging on Walker's prairie we encamped on " Chimakane creek," having
made nine and seven-tenths miles. This creek, which runs in a deeply
cut bed, overflows Walker's prairie during the spring freshets to a
considerable extent, and renders it swampy in many places. The
prairie, which has a length of five miles, varies in width from a half
to one mile, and is enclosed on both sides by high and well-timbered
mountain ridges. Chimakane creek, which runs along the westerly
edge of the prairie, is said to head in a pond which also bforms the head
waters of Mill creek, flowing in an opposite direction. The mouth of
Chimakane creek, which empties into Spokane river, is seven miles
below the ferry. Brushwood and trees of small size line its shores,
furnishing sufficient wood for cooking purposes.
June 14.-Start at 5.36 a. m. After ascending the prairie for three
miles the road enters the open pine timber, and gaining in two and a
half miles an elevation of one hundred and twenty-five teet, we passed
the mouth of a small valley, where the trail leading from the Cceur
d'Alene country descends friom the mountain to the Colville valley.
After making a steep descent we struck, in one mile from the beforementioned valley, the bottom through which Mill creek winds its way,
and following it down close to the creek bed we ascended the plateau
again in a mile and a quarter, and following its course over a gently
undulating surface for three and a half miles crossed a clear mountain creek of ten feet in width, named " Clearwater." The next seven
and three-fourth miles lead over a hilly country formed by the foot
slopes of the easterly ridges, involving some steep grades. At a few
places I noticed the rock cropping out from the ground, but only iso



BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                 81
lated huge boulders, allowing ample room to the wagons to wind their
way along. Mill creek has been hidden from view since we crossed
" Clearwater creek," but the direction of the valley is distinguishable
by the bold ridges which mark its westerly limit. A steep descent
brought us to a plateau running along Chal-mon-ets creek, but the
heavy timber on it forced the road for three-fourths of a mile along
the side hill before the regular crossing point could be gained. At
this point the creek is twenty feet wide and two feet deep, but with
the exception of this spot it is only an insignificant water run, which
takes its origin in a lake about one mile above our camp.
The country has now assumed perfectly the appearance and character
of the great mountain section lying to the east, and the suddenness
of the change after a long journey over the mountainous plains makes
the country appear to greater advantage than it really deserves. The
soil of the hills and mountains is stony, and too sterile to produce
even grass. The valley of the main creek is wet and swampy, and so
much cut up by the winding streamlet that only patches of a few acres
form a connected whole. Made to-day nineteen miles.
June 15.-Started at 5.36 a. m. After crossing the higher valley
bottom, which is covered with open pine timber, we commenced a very
gradual ascent to the opposite hill ridge, and passing in two and a half
miles a small pond which lies in a hollow of the slope, we reached in one
mile more a high hill, where I had a fine view of the westerly mountain
ranges, which overtop each other in a terrace-like formation. The highest of these ridges is bare, but the lower ones are richly covered with
pine timber. A large opening in the main ridge indicates that a large
tributary of Mill creek, with a considerable valley, heads close up to
the Columbia River valley, which itself cannot be at a greater distance
than 15 miles. The highest point of the westerly ridges I estimated
at 3,200 feet, and of the easterly ones at 2,800 feet. The elevation of
the road at this point over Mill Creek valley is about 800 feet, which,
with the exception of one point about one mile and a quarter to the north, is
the highest altitude we gained. This latter spot is 200 feet higher, and
from there the gradual descent to the valley is effected in five and a half
miles, in which distance fobur little creeksarecrossed,which are separated
by low spurs. In gaining the valley the road skirted the open prairie,
and we were compelled to keep along the foot slopes on account of the
marshy character of the soil, involving thereby a detour of one and a
half mile, and the crossing of two little muddy creeks, which sink as soon
as they gain the open valley. A large valley opening towards the north,
with well-marked, high rocky bluffs, indicates the course of a largearm of
Mill creek. At the point where this stream has to be crossed we overtook the train of Captain Kirkham, which was delayed by the difficulty
of the crossing, which is swimming and 20 yards wide. We went
to camp, having made 11 miles.
June 16.-Having effected the crossing towards noon, we again took
up the line of march, and reached, after crossing another creek, the
first settlement of Colville valley, which of late has been abandoned
on account of difficulty in raising crops. Passing then over a fine
prairie, where a farm has been established, the road follows close to
the creek bed for one mile and a quarter through open timber, over
HE. Ex. Doc. 44    6




82                MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
gently undulating ground, and then takes to a steep side hill, which
closes in towards the creek, and has an extent of one mile and a
quarter; after which distance the road gains again the valley plateau,
and continuing on it for two and a half miles, surmounting only a few
low spurs which run oullt from the main ridge, we went to camp onehalf mile above a place called "Point of Rocks," having made 9.8
miles.
This " Point of Rocks " is a mountain slope fobrmed by sliding rock
of half a mile in length, the base of which is bordered by the swampy
prairie bottom, which forced the command to work a practicable road
over the slide itself. This place is the only difficult point on the
whole route from Snake river, and during the day season even that
can be avoided. I notice one farm fon each side of the creek, immediately beyond this place, and I am told that from here on the valley
becomes more and more fit for cultivation. At this point the valley
bottom is quite narrow, and not exceeding half a mile wide.
Jrune 17. —The road ahead being practicable by I p. m., we started
at 2 15 p. m. Travelling through open timber, atter first passing
round the first farm beyond the Point of Rocks, for three and threequarter miles, and crossing in that distance five little mountain creeks,
we debouched on a large open prairie of one mile and three-quarters
in length. Several Indian tarlns are located here, and at its northerly
end a number iof log houses, belonging to Indians of the Colville tribe,
are erected. We went to camp on a little creek, having made 6.8
miles. The mountain ridges enclosing the valley have a height
of 800 to 1,000 feet, and are well covered with pine timber; their
slopes are steep and in some places rocky.
June 18.-Started at 6 25 a. m. After crossing " Little Pend d'
Oreille creek," which has a width of 15 yards and a depth of one foot and
a half, the road leads for two and a quarter miles through op.en pine timber, crosses then a small but deeply cut creek, which required bridging,
we passed between two small rocky cones, and reached in four and a
quarter miles a place where Major Lugenbeel determined to establish a
temporary depot. This latter section of the road is located along the
foot hills of the main ridge, which now recedes very far. These hills
are low, timberless, and covered with luxuriant grass, affording excellent pasturage, which makes them invaluable to the settlers of this
valley. Mill Creek bottom widens considerably from the point where
the road passed between the rocks, and gives ample room to farms on
both sides of' the creek. A quick ride, in company of Mr. McDonald,
of the Hudson's Bay Company, brought me to Fort Colville, where I
was kindly received by Mr. Blinkinshop, at the time in charge of the
trading post. Returning the same evening to Major Lugenbeel's
camp by the upper or wagon road, I took my leave, arid towards night
joined Captain Kirkham's train, which camped on the " Little Pend
d'Oreille creek." Captain Kirkham, who had granted my request to
return with his train, determined to travel as fast as possible with the
view to meet you at Fort Walla-Walla, and accordingly he left his main
train behind, pushing on with only two wagons, and a few dragoons
of the escort. By travelling fast, and often during night time to avoid
the heat of the day, we succeeded in reaching Snake river at 3 a. m. of




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                  83
the 23d. Captain Kirkham left for Walla-Walla the same morning,
but owing to the weakness of my horse I could only start towards
evening. On the morning of June. 24 I met your camp on Dry
creek, and obtaining leave to go to Fort Walla-Walla, I only rejoined
your camp on Touchet river June 25. Spokane river is the largest
stream crossed by the road; is 1].44.8 miles from Fort Walla-Walla;
from there to the temporary camp of Major Lugenbeel it is 62.7 miles,
making the whole distance 207.5 miles, as measured by my odometer.
In accordance with Major Lugenbeel's request, I furnished him with
a map of the road, -upon which the main topographical features were
marked, camping grounds stated, and distance given.
Very respectfully, your obedient servant,
P. M. ENGLE.
Lieut: JOHN MULLAN, U. S. A., commanding Fort
Walla- Walla and Fort Benton dMilitary Road Expedition.
CAMP ON THE BITTER RooT, June 8, 1860.
Official copy for Office of Explorations and Surveys, War Department.                              JOHN MULLAN,
1st Lieut. 2d Artillery, charge of Military Road.
C.
Report of reconnoissance of Pelouse river from last crossing of military road to crossing of Spokane trail, thence to Pyramid Peak and
back, via a small tributary of Pelouse, made July 7-9, 1859.
SIR: In obedience to your order to examine the Palouse river and
the adjacent country regarding its adaptability for the construction of
a wagon road, I left the main camp near the Smokle creek on the
morning of July 7, 1859, accompanied by Mr. Spangler and Donald
McKay, our interpreter.
Over the first nine and one-half miles, to the mouth of the Oraytayoase, we passed rapidly, as this portion of the country was known
to you by personal observation, and commenced our investigation beyond it. Having crossed the Pelouse about one-half mile above the
junction of the Oraytayoase, at the same place where the military
road crosses it for the last time, we lound that 300 yards further up
the stream the edges of the table lands bordering the valley of the
river approached either bank very clhsely, forming a rocky defile onehalf mile in length, sparsely timbered, even impassable for horses.
We therefore left the river and ascended on a tolerably easy grade to
the top of the table land on the right bank, which attains a height of
about 350 feet. As far as we could see the country presented a high,
slightly undulating prairie, destitute of timber, with here and there
an isolated long, narrow ridge, from 100 to 250 feet above the general
level. The principal depression therein, the valley of the Pelouse,
was very distinctly marked by its rocky bluffs and scattered groves. of




84                MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
timber. For a short distance we kept on level ground, thence descended on a pretty steep grade again into the valley of the river,
character of which remained almost uniform for the whole distance
we had an opportunity of examining it. It is one-fourth mile wide,
much winding, its main direction E.NE. The river flows through it
in a serpentine course, firet touching one side and then the other.
The banks on the outer side of these bends form invariably a more or
less precipitous bluff of basaltic rock, from 200 to 400 feet high, according to the elevation of' the table land itself, and are covered with
scattered pines. The banks on the inner side are generally plateau,
from ten to thirty feet above the surface of the water.. The current
at and near these bends is swift, the depth of the water from two to
three feet, the bottom big boulders. Above and below them the current is hardly perceptible and the water very deep. We found a
trail, and followed it along the right bank of the river for seven and
three-tenth miles, alternately passing steep side hills and level plateaus,
to a point where it crosses and leaves the river, keeping in the valley
of a small creek. We nooned in a little grove of tall pines, very
conveniently situated near this crossing for the benefit of travellers.
While our horses were enjoying the luxuriant bunch grass on the side
hill, we feasted on service berries, wild currants, and gooseberries,
which grow there and in many other places along the river in the
greatest abundance. After a short rest Mr. Spangler and myself proceeded along the river. Donald McKay kept on the trail to find out
its direction. In about four miles from this place we came to a considerable benl of the river, and saw in a northwardly direction the
mouth of an immense canion, with perpendicular basaltic walls 600 to
700 feet in height. A mile further we passed its entrance, and concluded, by the appearance of the country, that at some former period
the river must have flown through it. At present it contains but
little water, the bottom being marshy but in a few places, which were
indicated by the growth of low bushes. Above this bend the topographical features of' the valley slightly vary. The rocky bluffs become much higher-400 to 500 feet —and are of much greater extentone mile or more long. The plateaus opposite are much narrower,
and finally form only the lower portions of a gradual slope from the
top of the table land to the river. The bottom land intervening
widens, is extremely fertile, covered with tall grass, cottonwood
groves, and wild currant bushes. Late in the evening Donald McKay joined us, bringing the intelligence that the Indian trail followed
up an easy valley, near and almost parallel to the Pelouse) but much
more direct. Three miles from the entrance of the basaltic canion, or
fifteen and one-half miles from the starting point of the examination,
we encamped for the night in a rich bottom. So far existed no material difficulty to the construction of a wagon road. Immediately beyond our camp, though, was a rocky bluff, some 400 feet long, which
could not be avoided on account of the marshy ground on the opposite
side of the river. At daybreak, July 8, we continued still along the
right bank as the easiest of the two. In three and one-half miles
crossed a small creek coming from the northward. Half a mile further on we were compelled to cross over to the left bank on account




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                  85
of the rocky bluff on the right bank being impassable. Beyond this
point we had to cross at every bend, the valley in general became
very difficult, and altogether impracticable for a wagon road. The
rocky bluffs abrupt-f-rom  500 to 600 feet high-the bottoms either
swampy or timbered, and the crossings deep, with very large boulders.
In the same degree as the physical obstacles increased, the scenery
became more beautiful and somewhat diversified at every bend of the
valley.  Once I tried to proceed on the top of the table land, but soon
convinced myself that the innumerable ravines intersecting it in a
short time would have broken down our horses and impeded our progress much more than the crossings.
So I again descended into the valley, repeatedly crossing the river,
riding through fertile bottom lands, some one- half or even three-fourths
of a square mile in extent, and occasionally climbing along rocky bluffs
until I struck the eastern Spokane trail, which crosses the river at a
point nearly fourteen miles distant from our camp of the previous night.
We took a short rest to avoid the greatest heat of the day, and to give
our horses an opportunity tar grazing. Some Spokane Indians whom
we found there encamped; behaved very friendly towards us, but
could give no information in regard:to the character of the country
ahead of us. By all appearances, though, it seemed reasonable to suppose that the current of the river further up was rapid throughout,
and the valley nearly approaching a cafion with but very small patches
of bottom land. To reach the Pyramid Peak in the shortest time, we
left the river entirely and ascended the steep face of the table land on
the northern or right bank. For three and a third miles we rode on
the trail in a northwardly direction, in a gradually ascending valley,
formed by low prairie ridges. Gaining the top of a cross ridge at the
end of that distance, we got a view of the Pyramid peak; as the trail
did not tend towards it, we struck across the rolling prairie in a straight
line for it. In seven miles we reached a bottom near the foot of the
peak, wherein we found a series of cool springs, greatly to the delight
of ourselves and animals. The sun was but a few degrees above the
western horizon; we were much fatigued by the long march, and
therefore rather disposed to delay the ascent until morning; but the
delicious coolness of' the atmosphere, succeeding almost instantaneously
the heat of the day, inspired us with new energy, and we climbed up
the steep slope of this rocky cone, that stretches its crown more than
one thousand feet above its dingy neighbors. From the top we had
a view of the whole country for eighty miles around us. The outlines of all objects were for a short while very clearly defined by the
last rays of the setting sun. The Blue mountains, the high table
land stretching from  new Fort Walla-Walla to the Columbia and
beyond it, the mountains around the Coeur d'Alene Mission and lake,
and the Bitter Root mountains, were distinctly visible. Still the information regarding the particular object I was sent out for was by no
means satisfatitory. I merely convinced myself that the topography
of the country, as developed by Mr. Sohon on various expeditions,
was correct. The Pelouse, as tar as I could see, followed an east and
west course. The spurs of the Bitter Root mountain from which it proceeds were gently sloping, and densely wooded; pine timber in scat



86                MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
tered groves reached from them to within four or five miles of the foot
of the Pyramid Peak. The whole country enclosed by the abovementioned mountain systems is rolling prairie, very much resembling
a stormy sea. We encamped halt way between the summit and the
foot. The water we carried from the springs below, and collected
dry fire-wood on the northern slope, which is covered with small
brushes. The night was extremely pleasant, certainly much warmer
than one might have expected. On the morning of July 9 we ascended once more, for the double purpose of taking some necessary
compass bearings and enjoying the sunrise, which, beyond doubt,
offers one of'the most interesting spectacles. These objects accomplished, we retraced our steps to the Pelouse river, crossed it, kept
on the Spokane trail, which, ascending the opposite table land, leads
towards the south, and in three and a half miles struck an extensive
and very rich bottom, the same which Donald McKay had examined'
for some four or five miles on the first day of our trip. WVe Iollowed
it down in as rapid a gait as our horses could endure; at intervals of:
from six to seven miles we found good springs, and small groves of
cottonwood. Within five miles from the Pelouse the springs became
more frequent, and finally formed a small running creek, which
emptied into the Pelouse at the crossing of the trail, at the place
where we nooned on July 7. There could be no route more desirable for a wagon road than this bottom offers, and as I have stated
before that no material difficulties exist between-it and the last crossing of the Pelouse near the mouth of the Oraytayoase, I would consider it as favorable a location for the military toad as could be found
in this region. This opinion, of course, holds good only as far as I
went myself. Beyond the Spokane trail the bottom continues; whether
it contains sufficient water, or whether the connexion with the valley
of the Pelouse is easy, I cannot decide upon, although I suppose the
difficulties would not be great. To avoid the rocky bluffs of the
Pelouse valley below the junction of this bottom, we crossed over the
table land, which would be a much better location for a wagon road.
Towards evening we reached the last crossing of the Pelouse, where
we found the whole command encamped.
I am, respectfully, your obedient servant,
THEODORE KOLLECKI,
Topographer.
Lieut. JOHN MULLAN, U. S. A.,
In charge of Fort Walla- Walla and Fort Benton Military Road.
Respectfully submitted to Captain A. A. Humphreys, United States
topographical engineers, in charge of Office of Explorations and
Surveys.
JOHN MULLAN,
1st Lieutenant 2d Artillery, Charge of Military Road.
CANTONMENT JORDAN, Fbruary 10, 1860.




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                  87
D.
CEUR D'ALENE MISSION, W. T., August 16, 1859.
CAPTAIN: I have the honor to report the arrival on this day of my
party at this place. No accident worthy of note has occurred since
the date of my last report, the 31st ultimo. Our camp at the time
of my last writing was on the left bank of the St. Joseph's river,
and at the place of crossing that stream.  We crossed the St. Joseph's
on the 1st and 2d instant. On the 5th we marched to the Cceur
d'Alene river, about 11 miles. This distance contains some of' the
worst road yet passed.  Our route extends up the Coeur d'Alene
river along its left bank fbr about 11, miles.  The total distance
made since the date of my last report is about 29 miles. The greater
part of the route since reaching the St. Joseph's river lies along the
river valleys, and is subject to annual overflow. Some places were
laid with corduroy before attempting to pass wagons over them,
while many others showed by their softness that the waters had but
recently left them. The road would be utterly impracticable for
wagons during the time of high water, but for p.arties moving westward this would probably be no objection, as before they could pass
the mountain snows the water would have subsided. The road has
required much labor in its construction-cutting in side hills, and
tnrough forests, removing fallen trees, making bridges and corduroys.
For a road of its class it may be fairly called a good one thus far.
The St. Joseph's river as far as has been seen, and also the Coeur
d'Alene up to this point, are narrow, (the former about 160 the latter
200 feet broad,) with scarcely perceptible current, and from 20 to 30
feet deep  They may properly be called arms of the Coeur d'Alene
lake, so far as the above description may apply to them. Above the
Mission the Cceur d'Alene river assumes entirely a different character;
it has a rapid current, and is easily forded. My observation has discovered nothing to induce me to change my opinion, as given in my
last report, in regard to the dispoition of the Indians, nor anything
to add in regard to them.
Lieutenant Lyon, acting assistant quartermaster, will forward by
this express requisitions for cavalry boots. I have been led to ask for
these, inasmuch as it is reduced now to an absolute certainty that we
shall be exposed to snow during the march from this to Bitter Root
river. Captain Kirkham, assistant quartermaster, has been requested
to furnish the requisite number from Walla-Walla, in case those destined for us should not reach there in time. The health of the party
continues good.
I am, very respectfully, your obedient servant,
J. L. WHITE,
lst Lieutenant 3d Artillery, Commanding Escort, dac.
Captain A. PLEASONTON,
Acting Assistant Adjutant General,
Eleadquarters Department of Oregon,
Fort Vancouver, W. T.




88               MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
P. S.-August 17.-I open this to enclose a map, furnished, with
Lieutenant Mullan's permission, by Mr. Engle. The red lines represent those surveyed by Lieutenant Mullan's party this year.
J. L. WHITE.
HEADQUARTERS DEPARTMENT OF OREGON,
Fort Vancouver, W. T., August 31, 1859.
Official.
A. PLEASONTON,
Captain 2d Dragoons, A. Assistant Adjutant General.
The following indorsement is upon the original:
HEADQUARTERS DEPARTMENT OF OREGON,
Fort Vancouver, September 1, 1859.
This report is respectfully submitted for the information of the
general-in-chief, concerning the progress of the Fort Walla-Walla
and Fort Benton wagon road expedition.
The Coeur d'Alene Mission is about 200 miles from Fort WallaWalla. This expedition has been furnished everything that has been
required for it, by the staff department of this command. Supplies
are now en route for the Cceur d'Alene Mission to maintain the
party through the winter.
WM. S. HARNEY,
Brigadier General, Commanding.
HEADQUARTERS OF THE ARMY, October 22, 1859.
Respectfully forwarded by direction of the general-in-chief.
H. L. SCOTT,
Lieutenant Colonel and Adjutant General.
Received at the Adjutant General's office October 24, 1859.
E.
CANTONMENT JORDAN, ST. REGIS BORGrA RiVER,
Bitter Root Mountains, W. T., January 2, 18C0.
SIR: I have the honor to present the following report of my operations in the field during the months of September, October, November,
and December, 1859, while engaged in running a line of levels over
the wagon road from the Ceur d'Alene Mission to Cantonment Jordan.
In obedience to your verbal instructions of September 14, I proceeded
to the Coeur d'Alene Mission and commenced the level survey of the
road on the 17th of the same month.
The water level of the springs at thbe western base of the Mission
hill was chosen as the commencement point of the line, as it is the
lowest point in the vicinity, and is also but a few inches above the level




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                   89
of the water in the Cceur d'Alene river at the Mission. The Cceur
d'Alene river, which at the first crossing, one mile above the Mission,
has a width of eighty feet, a current of a mile and a half an hour, and
a mean depth of two feet, attains just below the, Mission an average
width of two hundred feet and a depth of at least fifteen feet, with a
current that is so slow as to be imperceptible. This character is preserved from the Mission to the outlet of the river in the Coeur d'Alene
lake, a distance of twenty-one miles in an air line, and twenty-seven
by the windings of the river; for which distance the river, which here
in fact is only an arm of the lake, is unquestionably navigable, and
has but little if any fall. Six hundred feet north of the commencement point is a level plain, which extends to the northward threefourths of a mile, to the base of the range of hills, which rise to a
height of five hundred feet and form the northern boundary of the
Mission valley, which has a length of three miles. This plain is
covered with a fine growth of grass, which affords an abundance of
pasturage for the bands of horses and cattle belonging to the missionaries and Indians. In the spring and autumn, however, it is mostly
wet and marshy. Its eastern end is bounded by a high projecting
spur of basaltic rock, which extends thence to the river, a distance of
eight-tenths of a mile, and is the only rock of that formation which
has been seen along the line of the road from the Mission to Cantonment Jordan.  The hill on which the Mission stands, and along the
base of which the wagon road passes, is eighty-two feet high, and presents a singular appearance, rising conically shaped out of a level
plain, without being in any way connected with the mountain ranges
on either side of the valley. Upon its summit are the buildings of the
Mission, which consist of a large church and two houses for the dwellings of the priests and lay brothers, around which are scattered various
tenements, lodges, &c, comprising the Indian village. At the northwest corner of the portico of the church building is placed bench
mark No. 1, height above the commencement point, eighty-eight and
twenty-nine hundredths feet. At the eastern base of the Mission hill
is a gully thirteen feet deep and seventy-five feet wide, which drains
the hills to the north and east, but which is dry during the summer
months. At station three is the western fence of the enclosure known
as the Mission field, which is used by the fathers as a farm, and extends to the east as far as the first crossing, and is bounded on the
north by the basaltic spur befbre noticed and on the south by the
river, having an extent of nine tenths of a mile in length by twotenths wide. The first crossing of the river is made just below the
point where the river leaves the spur, and being narrowed by a gravelly point which becomes an island at high water, runs swiftly over a
gravelly bed, with an average depth of two feet and a width at the
point of crossing of eighty feet. Should this ford be deepened, it is
quite probable that the length of navigation on the river can be
extended to near the Ten-mile Prairie. The general character of the
banks of the Coeur d'Alene river at its crossings is very favorable for
the purpose of bridging, being of a gravelly formation and perpendicular to the water's edge, and also not subject to overflow. The bed
of the river throughout is also gravelly. A very good point for




90                 MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
bridging the first crossing is just below the ford. The banka are
eleven feet above the water level, and would be connected by a bridge
of one hundred feet in length. The distance from the starting point
to the first crossing is one and two-tenths mile.  From  the first
crossing to the Ten-mile Prairie the road passes over three saddles,
known as " the Four-mile Prairie Saddle," height one hundred and
ninety-three feet; "the Seven-mile Prairie Saddle," lieight two
hundred and sixty-three feet; and "the Ten-m;le Prairie Saddle,"
height three hundred and seven feet above the base line. These saddles are portions of' the long spurs extending from the ridges of
mountains on the south to the river on the north, causing a large bend
in the river, which otherwise runs in a remarkably direct line from
its source in the mountains to the Mission. Both the first and second
saddles are not at the lowest points in their respective spurs. The
heavy growth of timber at these points effectually cut off the view of
the surrounding country, and the want of time (lid not admit of their
further examination. There are points of the spurs which are at
least fifty feet lower than these saddles respectively.  Between the
first crossing and the Four-mile Prairie the road runs over a prairie
for three-tenths of a mile, whence to the prairie it passes through a
forest composed of cedar, hemlock, and balsam timber, varying from
four inches to three feet in diameter. The Four-mile Prairie, four
miles from the Mission, has an average width of two hundred and
fifty feet, and is three-quarters of a mile long, bordered on the north
by the river and on the south by a forest of large timber of the species
before noted. The same character of growth covers the second saddle,
and terminates at its eastern base.  A large tributary of the river
comes in from the north, it is supposed, nearly opposite to the
eastern end of the Four-mile Prairie. This tributary is represented
by Father Joset at. the Mission as being the main fork of the river.
He states that the Indians ascend it for some distance in their
canoes. A glimpse of its valley has only as yet been obtained.
The Seven-mile Prairie is a stretch of nearly a mile and a half,
sparsely covered with grass and open timber. Its soil is gravelly.
This prairie extends some distance back into the country to the
south, and is the mouth of' a large ravine which runs southwardly
into the mountains.  The many small gullies which run across
it are evidently beds of streams in spring when the snows melt,
although  in summer perfectly dry.  The hills which form  the
eastern boundary of this prairie rise in a peculiar manner from
its surface. Instead of a curved line, as usual, joining the two
plains of the side hills and the prairie, the place where they meet is
a sharp and clearly-defined angle. This prairie is evidently the bed
of a lake which has filled up the valley of this mountain ravine by
its gravelly debris. The Ten-mile Prairie Saddle intervenes between
the eastern end of this prairie and the Ten-mile or Mud Prairie. This
saddle is the lowest point of its spur making down from the ridge on
the south, and, like the others, is timbered irom base to summit with
a similar growth. The Ten-mile Prairie is about a mile in length,
and from a quarter to three-eighths wide. It is wet and miry in spring
from the melting snows, and in autumn from the rains; but at the.




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                   91time when passed over by our train was good and solid. A special
survey is required from this to the Mission, in order to decide upon a
definite location for a railroad line; but the wagon line is the shortest
and most direct route either to the Mission or lake. Distance from
the Mission to this prairie is nine miles; height of west end of prairie
above the commencement part, eighty-three leet. From the Ten-mile
Prairie to the second crossing the road passes through a forest of pine,
hemlock, &c., and through a few small gravelly prairies, covered with
grass and brush; the timber is generally small, being about fifty feet
in height, and from six to twelve inches in diameter. The river at
the second crossing has a width of seventy feet, and a mean depth of
two feet. Its banks are gently sloping on the south and perpendicular and gravelly on the north; height above the river, six feet. One
hundred feet below the crossing the river runs at the base of a spur,
which last rises to a height of one hundred and fifty feet, an angle of
inclination of forty degrees. Outcropping limestone rock here makes
its appearance. From station sixty-four to station sixty-eight the
road runs at the base of a steep, rocky ridge, (slope thirty degrees.)
The ground to the south towards the river in: this distance is marshy
and covered with a luxuriant growth of long meadow grass. Further
examination may show a better location for the wagon road on the
left bank.  From station sixty-eight to station seventy-two the road
is through a forest of cedar, hemlock, and pine, from two to three
feet in diameter, after which it passes into a prairie with open timber,
which extends to within two hundred feet of the third crossing. The
water level of the third crossing is one hundred and eighty-seven feet
above the base line; its width is sixty-six feet, and mean depth two
feet. From this crossing eastward the valley becomes narrow and
the river exceedingly tortuous, flowing alternately at the base of the
ridges that bound the valley on both sides, which rise up, with a
slope of from thirty-five to seventy-five degrees, to a height of from
three hundred to six hundred feet, where they slope off more gently
to the tops of the high mountain ridges.  For the heights and distances ot the crossings, and different points along the line from here
to the summit, I would refer to the subjoined table of heights and
distances. From the third to the eleventh crossing, and from station
one hundred and fifty-nine to the divide of the Cceur d'Alene mountains, the timber in the valley is of a heavier growth, and is more
continuous than before; cedars from three to six feet in diameter
frequently occur. The pine becomes abundant, attaining a growth
of from two to four feet in diameter, and from one hundred and fifty
to two hundred feet high.  The hills and spurs of the mountain
ridges are also covered with the pine, hemlock, and fir, which decrease
in size in proportion to the elevation, until at the tops of the high
ridges they are mere dwarfs, and the tops of the highest peaks are,
entirely bald. Many of these peaks bordering the valley have a
height of from five to seven thousand feet above the level of the sea,
the height of the range generally being from fifteen hundred to three
thousand feet above the level of the sea, the height of the range
generally being from fifteen hundred to three thousand feet above
the level of the valley. A series of small prairies connected by,
strips of small pine timber begins near the eleventh crossing, and




92                MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
continues as far as station one Lundred and fifty-nine, a distance
of four and a half miles, only interrupted by two belts of timber,
which together do not exceed a mile and a half in length.  At
the seventeenth crossing is, probably, the confluence of the north
and south forks of the river.  The south fork is again crossed
just above its junction with the other branch. Height six hundred and twenty-five feet; distance from  the Mission twenty-four
and five-tenths miles. The first crossing of the north fork is one and
one-tenth further to the eastward. Between this and the second
crossing three small tributaries come in from the north, the valley
of the stream becomes very narrow, and the ridges close up, forming
a deep and narrow gorge, which at its mouth has a width of two
hundred feet. This continues up to the ninth crossing, whence, to
the twenty-seventh, a distance of two and seven-tenths miles, the river
runs between the spurs which come down close, having only the
width of the stream between them, with a narrow margin for the
location of the wagon road. The character of the road as it runs
over the small spurs and plateaus is indicated by the profile. The
southern side of this ravine presents an almost unbroken wall, which
slopes up from thirty to sixty degrees, with ledges of rock outcropping in many places.
The northern side, which is also steep, is intersected with four deep
and narrow ravines, which extend to the summit of the mountain
range, a distance of about two miles. The last or most eastern of
these ravines, called "Johnson's Cut-off," will afford good grazing
for emigrants and others passing over the line, grass being found in
its bottom about a mile above its mouth, and also on the hills on both
sides. From the twenty-seventh crossing the road rises up to a plateau, and passes over the Long Prairie Saddle, to avoid the Long
Prairie, which is a marshy meadow, about one hundred and fifteen
acres in area. One third of this area is covered with grass, and the
remainder with clumps of bushes and strips of small timber  This
prairie is wet in early spring. The Long Prairie Saddle is twelve
hundred and nineteen feet above the base line, and its distance from
the Mission is thirty-one and three-quarter miles. After descending
from this saddle to station tbur hundred and six, the road is located
upon the foot slope of the ridges, which have a plateau like formation, and rise at an average rate of one hundred and eighteen and a
halt feet to the mile, in the direction ot the road, until a summit is
reached at station four hundred and forty-eight; thence it descends to
the river bottom, and reaches the foot of the divide of the Cceur
d'Alene mountains at the twenty-eighth crossing of the northern fork
of the river. Distance from the Mission thirty-five miles and thirtyeight hundredths.'Height fourteen hundred and fifty-two feet, or an
average fall of forty-one and four hundredths feet per mile. The average width of the river is forty-four feet. The highest high-water
mark seen was only three feet above its usual level. The average rise
of the Coeur d'Alene river for the first ten miles is ten feet per mile,
for the next fifteen miles thirty-five feet per mile, and for the remaining ten and thirty-eight hundredths miles is seventy-nine and seventysix hundredths feet per mile. The summit of the divide of the Coeur
d'Alene mountains at Sohon's Pass is four thousand nine hundred and




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                  93
thirty-two feet above the level of the sea, two thousand eight hundred
and four and ninety-two hundredths feet above the base line, and
thirteen hundred and fifty-three feet above the last crossing of the
north fork, which last height is attained in an air-line distance of
one and five hundredths of a mile. Its summit is gained by the
wagon road by means of two long bends or curves, which are graded
on and into the side of the mountain, the distance by the wagou road
being one and seventy-two hundredths miles. The rock lies generally
some four feet under the surface of the ground, but at the place known
as the " Point of' Rocks" blue limestone rock outcrops. From this
place up to the summit the road runs on the natural surface of the
ground. The descent of three hundred and ninety-two feet from the
summit to the first crossing of the St. Regis Borgia river is made in
a distance of seven-tenths of a mile, in a nearly direct line, over the
natural surface of the mountain.
The divide of these mountains has had as careful an examination
as the time at our disposal would allow, with a view to obtain as
much correct information as possible for determining the best location
and probable length of a tunnel for the passage of a railroad line.
There are two passes to the north and east of Sohon's Pass. The first,
two miles to the north, is higher than Sohon's Pass, and also wider
from base to base. The second is some ten miles distant, at the north
fork of the Cceur d'Alene. These require a special examination of
their approaches to enable us to say anything definite in regard to
them. At least a month should be spent in this region, so interesting
to the topographer and the artist, to obtain at least an approximately
correct sketch of the outlines of these passes and their approaches.
Two miles to the south of Sohon's Pass the ridge of the mountains
dividing the waters Iof the St. Regis Borgia from one of the small
tributaries of the north fork of the Coeur d'Alene, which empties itself
into that stream a mile or so above Long Prairie, becomes very narrow, sloping on the east at an angle of forty-five degrees, and to the
west is nearly perpendicular for fifteen hundred feet. A tunnel could
be made at this point of not more than one thousand feet in length,
but its approach would involve such steep grades and heavy embankments across deep ravines as to be impracticable. The eastern base
of the mountain in the valley of the St. Regis Borgia at this place, as
determined by an observation with the aneroid barometer, is higher
than the summit of Sohon's Pass It is therefore evident that to pierce
the divide of these mountains either Sohon's Pass must be taken as the
tunnelling point or a more favorable line be found through the mountain ranges to the north and east. The St. Regis Borgia river has its
rise in a small bowl-like lake five hundred feet in diameter, carved by
the hand of nature out of the steep rocky walls of one of the spurs of
Stevens's Peak. After leaving this spring it tumbles down three
hundred feet in a quarter of a mile through a narrow rocky channel,
after which it flows through a valley a tenth of a mile in average
width to the first crossing. The distance from the source to this point
is about two miles, and the entire fall is twelve hundred and fifty feet.
From the first to the second crossing, a distance of two and a half
miles, the road passes over the foot slopes of the ridges on the right
bank of the river, which have a general transverse slope of one in ten.




94                MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
The descent from the first' to the second crossing is five hundred and
fbrty-nine feet. From the third to the sixth crossing, a distance of
five-tenths of a mile, the valley is about one hundred feet wide, having only a narrow strip of ground between the river and the foot of
the spurs. The rock is seen outcropping in many places, having a
slope towards the river of from 40~ to 700. From the sixth to the
seventh crossing, one and fifteen hundredths miles, the road passes
for eight hundred feet at the base of the ridge on the left bank, whence
for the remaining distance it passes over a plateau from sixty to one
hundred and fifty wide, and tour feet above the river bottom. Between the seventh and eighth crossings is a small prairie, five hundred feet long and two hundred and fifty feet wide, called the "Fivemile Prairie." The distance from the summit to the eighth crossing
is five and sixty-five hundredths miles.  From the eighth to the thirty-second crossing, eight and three-tenths miles, the valley is generally narrower, being from one hundred to two hundred feet wide.
Wherever a prairie occurs the ridges and spurs recede and the valley
becomes from two to six hundred feet in width. The principal prairies in this distance lie between the eighth and ninth, the ninth and
tenth, and the thirtieth and thirty-first crossings.  The valley between
the last-mentioned crossings has a width of from five hundred to one
thousand feet. The thirty-second crossing is at the entrance to the
cainon of the St. Regis Borgia. which extends to the thirty-eighth
crossing, a distance of one and a half mile. This cafnon, so called, is
merely a narrow and deep ravine or gorge, through which the river
flows. The spurs which close up the valley have a slope of from 350
to 450, and are covered with a growth of small timber; outcropping
ledges of rock were only observed opposite to station seven hundred
and ninety. The road is located on small plateaus at the base of the
spurs for the most of the distance.  From the fortieth to the forty-first
crossing the road passes over rolling prairie ground, with belts of open
timber. Here is the mouth of a large ravine, which comes in from the
range of mountains on the north; the valley becomes wider and the
river flows near the hills at the southern side of the valley. The
stretches between the fobrty-second and forty-third and forty-fourth
and forty-fifth crossings, are also the debouches of similar ravines.
On these prairies will be found an abundant supply of grass during
the spring and surnmer, although at the time of the survey, November 20 to 25, all these prairies were covered with snow to a depth
of one and four-tenths feet  The forty-first and forty-second crossings, and also the lorty-third and forty-fourth crossings, are made in
order to avoid two rocky spurs which run down to the water's edge
at an angle of 35~. Here the blue limestone outcrops and presents a
regularly stratified appearance; the thickness of the strata is from
one to four feet, and dips from east to west at an angle of about 450~.
The strata forming the spur between the forty-third and forty-fourth
crossings has a dip of 60~, and the rock is of a whiter hue, more resembling marble. The forty-fifth and forty-sixth crossings are made
to avoid a swampy fiat occasioned by a stream coming from the north,
which sinks into the ground instead of emptying directly into the
river. From the forty-sixth or last crossing to Cantonment Jor



BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                    95
dan, a distance of one and ninety-six hundredths miles, we pass over
a series of plateaus and rolling ground with prairies and belts of
small timber. The character of the valley of the St. Regis Borgia
is quite different from that of the Coeur d'Alene, rising in steps or
plateaus of' four or five feet each, instead of being a narrow bottom
three or four feet above the water level. The timber both in the valley and on the sides of spurs and mountains is more open and smaller
than the same character of growth on the western slope of the mountains. The pine is generally about fifty feet in height and from one
to six inches in diameter, although occasionally trees are found much
larger, the hemlock and fir predominating, while the cottonwood is
seen lining the immediate banks of the river,  Wherever the prairies
already spoken of appear, the pines are smaller and evidently of a
later growth, and the other timber becomes more open and scattering.
The river itself has a more rapid descent than the Coeur d'Alene, as
is shown by the following table, the average width being about thirtyeight feet:
Distance, in  Descent, in Average demiles.    feet.     scent per
mile.
From the 1st to the 2d crossing_        2. 50      549       219. 60
From the 2d to the 9th crossing.-.     3 57       312        87.40
From the 9th to tie 26th crossing-      4. 48      282        62. 94
From the 26th to the 46th crossing -    9. 05      354        39. 12
Total- _, —---------             19. 60     1,497 -
The descent of the wagon road from the forty-sixth crossing of the
St. Regis Borgia to Cantonment Jordan, a distance of one and ninetysix hundredths miles, is forty-five feet.  The height of Cantonment
Jordan above the base line at the Mission is eight hundred and seventy-one feet, and its distance from the Mission is fifty-nine and onethird miles, and from old Fort Walla-Walla, the initial point proper
of the road, two hundred and eighty-eight miles. Height above the
sea, two thousand nine hundred and ninety eight feet
I am, sir, very respectfully, your obedient servant,
W. W. JOHNSON.
Lieut. JOHN MULLAN, U. S. A.,
In charge Fort Walla- Walla and Fort Benton Wagon Road Exp'n.
Respectfully submitted to Captain A. A. Humphreys, United States
topographical engineers, in charge Office Explorations and Surveys.
JOHN MULLAN,
Lieut. U. S. Army, in charge Military Wagon Road.




96                MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
Place.                 Height in feet Distance from the
above base.  Cmur dAlne
Mission.
Mission hill -82.
1st crossing Coeur d'A16ne river  - -  -10                1..13
Four-mile Prairie Saddle. —----------- ------------------  119  3. 25
Four-mile Prairie     -      -     -40                    4. 00
Seven-mile Prairie Saddle ---------------------- - --------  263  5. 60
Seven-mile Prairie ------      -     -138                 6. 50
Ten-mile Prairie Saddle --------------------------------  307  7. 65
Ten-mile Prairie ---          -     -83                   9. 00
2d crossing Coeur d'Aline river.  - - -112                10. 65
72d station  — 153                                        11.90
3d crossing &nr d'Alne river -..- -             188      13. 27
4th ------—.do......... — -     -              193      13.45
5th ------— do ---------------------------- - -----------  199  13.65
6th ------— do  -       -                       206       14. 15
7th ------— do ----------------- -. —--------------------  212  14. 30
8th ------— do ---------------------------- - -----------  217  14.55
9th........do........................................  224  14. 80
10th -----— do  -       -                       242       15. 52
l1th -----— do -------------------------- - - -257        16.25
12th -......do ---------------------------- - -----------  293  17.38
13th -----— do       - - -311   18.00
Station 159 --- - -     -438                              20. 80
14th crossing Cceur d'Aline river  - - -488               22. 10
15th -----— do................... — -.. 521  22.93
16th....(lo. — - -                            566   23. 90
17th crossing and tributaries, station 204.. —--  584  24. 20
South Fork........................... — -... 606  24.50
North Fork, 1st crossing  -    -     -625                 25. 05
Small stream       - - -637  25. 25
2d crossing North Fork   -     -     -645                 25. 50
3d -........do       - - -653  25.65
4th ------— do       - - -675   26.00
5th ------— do ---------- - -     -707                    26.53
6th ------— do.............. — - -             717       26.75
7th ------—.do -----------—...............- - ---------  720  26.80
8th ------— do       - - -756   27.37
9th- —.-.. do       - - -826   28.40
10th -----— do.      -      -     -838                    28.55
11th-.....do         - - -854  28.75
12th -----— do       - - -862   28.85
13th -----— do       - - -868   28.97
14th.......do       - - -871   29.03
15th -----— do      - - -892   29.25
16th -----— do........................ — -.. 907  29.50
17th -..do-                   -       --    915   29.60
18th -----— do      - - -936   29.85
19th -----— do.......................... — -.. 948  30.05
20th -----— do       - - -956   30.20
21st -----— do... —             - -            968       30.32
22d........do -    -      -     --            1,007      30.55
23d --- ---— do -----------------------------------------  1,010  30.60
24th -----— do      -      -      -            1,023      30.75
25th -----— do           -     -      -1,028              30.80
26th -----— do      -      -     -             1,042      31.02
27th -----— do. —        -     -             1,045      31.05
Long Prairie Saddle   -     -     -1, 219                 31.75
Station 406   --                               1,167      32.35
Station 48         - - -1,507   35.15
28th crossing North Fork....... — - -         1,452      35.35




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                             97
TABLE-Continued.
~~~~~Place.  ~Height in feet Distance from the
above base.   Coeur d'Alene
Mission.
Point of Rocks —----------- - — 2,669                         36.80
SummitofSohonsPass —---------     -             2,804         37.10
st crossing St. Regis Borgia iver - - - -       2,413         37.80
Small stream —--------------------- - —.             2,136          38.95
2d crossing St. Regis Borgia river - - - -      1,864         40.30
3d —--— o —--------—...- do.......-   ---   -       1,833          40.55
4th —----— do —---------- -- - -    — 1,822                   40.65
5th —----— do —-------------- - - — 1,805                    40.75
6th - do-... -.  -------------------                  1,799         40.80
Small stream —--------- -----— 1,783                          41.00
7th crossing St. Regis Borgia river - -1,670                  42.00
8th —----— do —----—.................-               1,611          42.78
9th —----— do —-----------------------                1,553         43.90
lo0th —---— do —------------— 1,538                           44.20
1th —---— do —---------------                   1,489         44.60
12th —---— do —--------------— 1,470                          44.93
13th —---— do —-----------------------                1,446         45.20
14th —---— do —-------------— 1,435                           45.45
15th —---— do —-------------— 1,420                           45.85
16th —---— do —--------------                   1,411         46.05
7th —---— do —---------------— 1,397                          46.55
th crossing St. Regis Borgia river; st stream   - -1,390             46. 6)
Do —-- -do.-2d stream -.- _                      1,387          46.65
Do —-- -do. —stream-...d 1,389     46.70.19th crossing St. Regis Borgia river- - -1,380                     46.85
20th ------- do ----------------------------------------        1,372         46.98
21st —-— do —--------------------                               1,363         47.10
22d —-— do —--------------------                                1,354         47.20
23d —-— do —--------------------                                1,345         47.30
24th —-— do —--------------------                               1,330         47.45
25th —-— do —--------------------                               1,298         47.90
26th --— do. —--------------------                              1,269         48.40
27th —-— do —--------------------                               1,244         48.80
Small creek —----------------------                             1, 248        48. 90
28th crossing St. Regis Borgia river -----------    -           1,232         49. 10
29th —-— do —--------------------                               1,215         49.47
30th —-— do —--------------------                               1,207         49.65
31st —-— do —--------------------                               1,174        150. 45
32d. —-— do —--------------------                               1,152         51. 10
33d......do    --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- 1,148  51. 15
34th- d —-(o. —-------------------                              1,136         51.30
35th —-— do —--------------------                               1,132         51.40
36th —-— do —--------------------                               1,125         51.80
37tti —-— do —-------------------                               1,100         52.35
38th —-— do —--------------------                               1,093         52.55
39th —-— do —--------------------                               1,080         52.85
40th —-— de ---------------------                               1,074         53.YIS
Stream ------------------------                                 1, 054        54. 30
Small creek —----------------------                             1,012         55.10
Do ----------- -------------                               1,011          55. 15
41st crossing St. Regis Borgia river —----- ------                978         55. 30
42d ------..do —--------------------                             975         55.40
43d. —--— do —--------------------                                945         56.25
44th —-— do —--------------------                                 940         56.50
45th —-— do —-------------------                                  922         57.20
46th —-— do. —--------------------                                916         57.40
Cantonment Jordan -------------------                             881         59.33
H. Ex. Doe. 44 —T




98                 MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
F.
CANTONMENT JORDAN, ST. REGI BORGIA RIVER,
Bitter Root Mountains January 3, 1860.
December 27.-SIR: I have the honor to state that I left the Mission
at eleven o'clock a. m., in company with two Indians, on our way to
Cantonment Jordan, with about twelve pounds weight to the man,
and camped on Mud or Ten-mile Prairie. The snow at this point is
two feet and five inches in depth. Travelling on snowshoes.
December 28.-Left Mud Prairie at six o'clock a. m, and camped
at Cedar Swamp. Good travelling. Snow same as the day before.
Distance 251 miles from Mission.
December 29.-Got under way at seven o'clock a. m. Good travelling. Snow three feet in depth, with a ard crust. Camped at Long
Prairie; distance from Mission 32 miles.
December 30.-Left camp at six o'clock a..; crossed the divide,
and camped at the Log House, six miles east ofthe summit.
From the Cceur d'Alene river to the summit the depth of snow is
four feet and seven inches; from the summit to St. Francis Borgia
river the snow is five feet deep; from this point to the Log House it is
four feet and six inches.
December 31.-Got under way at seven o'clock a. m. Good travelling. The road had been opened by Lieutenant Lyon's men, who
were sledding their wagons to camp. Snow two to three feet deep on
an average. iNone ot' the crossings between the Mission and the
divide are as yet frozen. Total distance traveiled sixty miles on
snow-shoes.
IJam your obedient servant,
P. TOOHILL.
Lient. JOHN MULLAN)
Charge of' Military Road.
CANTON9MENT JORDAN,
St. Regis Borgia River, January 4, 1860.
SIR: The above report of my expressman, P. Toohill, of his trip'from the Cceur d'Ale'ne Mission to our winter camp, made in December, gives the exact depths of snow along the line in the month of
December, 1859-, and may, with other data, serve to form some definite
conclusion regarding the actual depth of snow on this route during
the winter season.
I shall have a report, also, on the depth in January, February, and
March, made and submitted to you.
I am, sir, respectfully, your obedient servant,
JOHN MULLAN,
1st Lieutenant 2d.Artillery, charge of Military Road.
Capt. A. A. HUYMPHREYS,
United States flopogra~phical Engineer&.




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                  99:
Reort on the practicability of a railroad along Columbia river, from
the Dalles to Umatilla river. 1859. C. P. Howard, (,. E.
CANTONMENT JORDAN,
Bitter Root Mountains, January 5, 1860.
SIR: In accordance with your letter of instructions, I left the Dalles
on May 16, 1859, for the purpose of examining into the practicability
of a railroad line, along the Columbia and Snake rivers, from the
Dalles t the mouth of the Pelouse river.
Before entering into details, it would be, perhaps, better to say
something of the general character of the route, and more especially
of the question of grades, which in most lines of railway is the subject
of chieest difficulty. A glance at the accompanying profile, together
with the following considerations, will show that if, under any circumstances a railroad is practicable along the Columbia and Snake
rivers the problem of grades is of easy solution. A large portion of
the line is on the broad flats between the bluffs and the river, where
there is no engineering difficulty to be surmounted. A considerable
part also-and such sections will be examined in greatest detail-lies
along the face of steep rock bluffs, with the river laving their base,
and where, by a variation of a few hundred feet to the right or left,
the line can be elevated or depressed the greater part of the distance;
here it is sufficiently evident that the question is not one of grades.
Still another port on is on rolling plateau which sometimes continue
for miles, with very gentle ascents and descents, and then break off
suddenly, with sheer precipices of' from fifty to one hundred feet in
height, compdlling the engrineer to take the steep side hills beyond;
and these sections are the only ones on which any difficulty from,
grades can be apprehended. Further investigation will show that
even here the difficulty is not great.
To afford a cheap line of railway from the Dalles to the Umatilla
river-beyond which point I will not enter into detailed report, from.
being incapacitated for field-work by sickness during the remainder of
the exploration-the amount of curvature must of necessity be considerable, but much less than those unacquainted with the peculiar
features of the country might suppose. In almost all cases where large*
ravines occar the bluffs recede from the river, and broad fiats intervene; and where the precipitous rock cliffs come down to the water, a.
straight line can often pass along their face for half a mile without
leaving the surface more than a few feet. There are many points,.
along the line where a large amount of rock cutting and embankment
would be necessary, and probably in several places short tunnels.
would be required; but the average cost of the line would not be great
if curves, of one thousand feet radius as a minimum, should be adopted,
where the nature of the ground requires them.
Regarding the means and manner of operation during the exploration, the instruments used were a compass, spirit-level, and odometer;
the latter attached to a small wheel, fitted with axle and shafts, and
rolled along the line as surveyed. Mr. Sohon was compass-man and
topographer from the Dalles to Mud Spring; thence Mr. Johnson took his




100                MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
place to a point some ten miles west of John Day's river, and the
remainder of the line was surveyed by Mr. De Lacy. The level was
used by myself until we had nearly reached the Umatilla, where
sickness forced me to leave the party, Mr. Johnson taking my place
as leveller, and the charge of the party devolving on Mr. De Lacy,
who completed the special exploration. The map of the line was
made by Mr. Sohon so far as he surveyed it, and the rest by Mr.
De Lacy; the profile by myself. In the following report, as in that of
Mr. De Lacey, the stations referred to are taken from the level-book,
and are identical on map and profile.
The high-water mark, as given on the profile, was obtained from
actual observation of the greatest height of water of the Columbia river
in 1859, when, I am assured, it was higer than at any previous time
in the knowledge of the white residents of the vicinity; and it may
safely be predicated that a line of railway, located a few feet above
this mark as given, would be safe from any encroachment from the
Columbia.
It is necessary to state that whilst the profile was made entirely
from the level notes, the level line as run was not, in many instances,
exactly over the ground which was chosen as the best line of location;
but being limited in time, as well as means, during the survey, and
there having been no previous examination of the ground,    was
forced to content myself with merely noting in the field book the
variation between the line as run and that afterwards selected. The
field-book, therefore, will frequently show the data used in this report
Were the profile does not.
The initial station of the survey was taken at a point on the WallaWalla, road, two miles east of Fort Dalles, and a benicl-mark made
on the root of a small oak tree near this station was taken at one hundred feet above the base line.
From station 4 to Five-mile creek, distance two miles, the line rises
45 feet to the point selected as the best bridge crossing. About one
mile of embankment six feet high, and a quarter of a mile of rock
cutting five feet deep, necessary. Small culvert, six feet span, necessary at Three-mile creek. Length of' bridge across Five-mile creek
140 feet; good natural rock abutments at about the same level, and
50 feet above water.
From Five-mile creek to 27, distance one and a half mile, the
fall is five feet. Between these points the ground is much rougher;
about three-quarters of a mile of rock cutting 8 feet deep, and half a
mile embankment 10 feet high, necessary.
From 27 to 32, distance one mile, line rises 10 feet. Work here is
mostly-in sandy earth. About half a mile of earth cut 15 feet deep,
and half a mile embankment 15 feet high, will be required.
From 32 to 40, distance three miles, rise 10 feet. Between these
points the quantity of' work necessary is estimated as about equal to
seven-eighths of a mile of rock cut 10 feet deep, and half a mile of
embankment 30 feet high.
From 40 to 43 the section is much more difficult than any yet considered. These points are on the same level, and their distance apart
is one and three-eighths of a mile. Between them will be necessary




ENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                  101
half a mile of embankment 20 feet high, which extends for some 800
feet across a shallow corner of the river; then a tunnel of quarter of a
mile, about; and thence to station 43 the line passes for some 600
lfeet over another and much deeper corner of the river, where a
bridge will probably be required. The exact depth of the river at
this point could not be ascertained; but at high water it must be at
least 20 feet, and the current, for a part of this distance, is quite
rapid.
From 43 to 53, distance two and a quarter miles, rise 77 feet, grade
34 feet per mile, there will be necessary one mile of embankment 10
feet high. Between 44 and 53 the cliff makes a sharp bend, requiring
a curve of 2,000 feet radius, and angular deflection of 80~.
From 53 to 54 distance 0.44 mile, line level; rock cut averaging
10 feet for the whole distance. This is an elevated plateau which
breaks off suddenly at 54, with a fall of some 70 feet.
Between 54 and 55 is another difficult section. The line leaves 54,
passing along a very steep side hill for about a quarter of a mile, then
curves for some 300, with radius of 1,000 feet, and passes, on a straight
line, through a rock bluff with a tunnel of about 1,000 feet; then,
with a curve of larger radius, and some 90~ of curvature, it keeps the
rising ground behind the Des Chutes village, and passes on a straight
line across the Des Chutes river to station 55. For the first 1.40
mile the fall is 42 feet, grade 30 feet per mile; thence the line crosses
the river on a level and 15 fet above high-water mark, to station 55.
Length of bridge across Des Chutes river, 480. Good abutment and
pier foundations. Whole length of embankment at both ends of
bridge, 900 feet; height, 15 feet. The whole distance from 54 to 55,
on this location, is 1.85 mile; but, by a mistake in the odometer
readings, which was not discovered until after the profile was finished,
the distance, as it appears on the profile, is 0.67 mile too short.
This will be noticed on the profile as well.
From 55 to 61, distance about one and a half mile, rise 7 feet;
work about equal to'earth cut six feet deep the whole distance. From
61 to 62, distance rather more than one mile, fall 16 feet, the grade
line scarcely leaves the surface more than a foot either way. Material
all sandy earth.
From 62 to Mud Spring, distance two miles, rise 34 feet, one mile
embankment 10 feet high, and quarter mile earth cut six feet deep,
necessary. A culvert of six feet span required at Mud Spring.
From Mud Spring to 79 the profile of the selected line of' location
is entirely different from the level line as run. Between Mud Spring
and 74, distance two and a quarter miles, fall 34 feet. Thie line'fo r
the first mile is along the slope of very precipitous rocky bluffs; work
for this distance, probably half a mile of rock cut 20 feet deep. For
the remaining one and a quarter mile the work is very light and
nearly all in earth.
Between 74 and 79, distance seven miles, rise 68 feet. The line
here lies mostly along the level or gently rolling river fiats, where'
both excavation and embankment would be slight, and the material
nearly all earth. For a distance of 2,000 feet back of 78, however,
the line is near the base and along the surface of nearly perpendic~ular




102                 MILITARY ROAD FROM  FORT
rock bluffs rising from the river. Here work would be required
equivalent to rock cutting some 50 feet deep; but even should a tunnel of 2,000 feet be required, it would be much preferable to the heavy
grades of the line as run and indicated on the profile.  About threequarters of a mile back of 79 is a ravine where a culvert of 12 feet
span would be required; also two small ones of four feet span between
76 an(l 78.
Between 79 and 82, distance one mile, is John Day's river. The
line falls 16 feet in the first half mile, crossing the river on a level,
which continues to 82. Length of bridge required, 450 feet. Foundation for east abutment solid; both west abutment and pier foundations
would probably require piling. Embankment on west side, for quarter of a mile, averaging 20 feet in height; on east very little needed.
From 82 to 90, distance three and a quarter miles, line continues
level. No engineering difficulty between these points. 1,000 feet
of rock cutting 20 feet deep, and quarter of a mile of embankment
20 feet high, would be about equivalent to the work needed. Culvert
of four feet span between 86 and 88.
From 90 to 92, distance two miles, fall 20 feet.  1,000 feet of rock
cutting six feet deep required; no embankment; one culvert of five
feet span.
Between 92 and 95, distance two niles, rise 60 feet, there are two
very pricipitous rock bluffs of 100 and 80 feet in height, respectively.
The line passes about 15 feet above the base and along the fce of the
first for some 1,500 feet. Here trestle-work would probably be most
economical. The second is about two-thirds of a mile back of 95, and
by cutting through this for 300 feet, with average depth of 15i feet,
the line would pass with very little more work up to 98.
Between 95 and 108, distance a little less than five miles, fall 37
feet, three-quarters of' a mile, of rock cutting 10 feet deep, half mile
earth cutting 20 feet deep, and one mile embankment averaging 20
feet in height, will be necessary.
Froni 108 to 120., distance iour and a quarter miles, fall 7feet;
about three-quarters of a mile earth cut 10 feet deep, and three quarters of a mile embankment 8 feet high.
From 120 to 121, distance two miles, fall 12 feet, a very special
survey is needed. The line passes across a shallow corner of the river
for some 800 feet, and about one mile is along the face of very tortuous, broken, rocky bluffs, 60 leet high.
From 121 to 126, distance one and a quarter mile, rise 20 feet, half
a mile earth cut 10 feet deep, and halt a mile embankment 10 feet
high, necessary.
From 126 to 138, distance three and three-quarter miles; grade
line level; earth cut one and a half mile, 6 feet in depth; embankment almost nothing.From 138 to 175, distance 11 miles; the fall here is 17 feet in the
first four miles; then the line rises 33 feet in the next six miles,
crossing Willow creek on a level and 13 feet above its banks, to 175 
for the first 91 miles the grade line does not leave the surface at any
point more than 10 feet, and for this distance two miles embankment
averaging eight feet in height, and one mile earth cut 10 feet deep, is




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                  103
about the amount of work required. About one mile back of Willow
creek the line passes along a rocky hill-side, and from this point to the
creek one-half mile of rock cut 10 feet deep, and one-quarter mile
embankment 15 feet high, is necessary. Length of bridge across
Willow creek 330 feet; abutment foundations solid; pier foundation
will probably require piling one-quarter mile embankment averaging
six feet in height between Willow creek and station 175.
From 175 to 196 distance is 4- miles, fall 15 feet. In the first
half mile there is required one-quarter mile rock cut eight feet deep;
thence up to 196 the grade line does not anywhere vary more than 10
feet from the ground. For this distance, one mile earth cut six feet
deep, and one-half mile embankment six feet high, is necessary.
From 196 to 211, distance 2 miles, rise 32 feet; embankment
averain  15 feet hih for one mile.
From 211 to 215, distance half mile, rise 11 feet; excavation and
embankment almost nothing.
From 215 to 222 distance 2 miles, half mile of rock cut eight feet
deep. The fall between these stations is 26 feet.
From 222 to 257, distance 6 miles, rise 35 feet.  There is necessary
half a mile embankment 31 feet high, two miles embankment eight
feet high, and thme-quarters of a mile earth cutting 10 feet deep.
Between 257 and 258, distance 8- miles, the fall is seven feet. The
line here runs straiht across a bend of the river on a low, gently
rolling flat. There is nowhere cut or bank of more than 20 feet, and
the material is all sandy earth. Over this section the level did not
follow the selected line of' location.
From 258 to 273, distance l1 mile, rise 37 feet; about half a mile
embankment 10 feet high necessary.
Between 273 and 325, in the Umatilla river; the distance here is
four miles, and the line level; halif a mile embankment 20 feet high,
and quarter of' a mile earth cut five feet deep, necessary. Length of
bridge across the Umatilla 340'{eet. Solid foundation for abutment
and most probably for piers; the banks down to the water's edge
being, remarkably firm.
The section of the line from the Dalles to the Des Chutes river, a
distance of 13 miles, presents tar more of engineering difficulty than
any portion of the same length up to the Umatilla. For most of this
distance the bluffs are generally very precipitous and near to the river;
the peculiar basaltic formation, in some places, rendering anything
approaching to an exact railroad location almost impossible, except
from a very detailed survey; whilst in others the position for a railroad is so strongly marked that a very approximate location can be
made without an instrument; it is on connecting these last-mentioned,
portions with easy grades and great economy that the whole real
difficulty lies. Between the Dalles and the Des Chutes river, the
ground which, of the whole distance to the ljmatillah, may be considered.as most unfavorable for a railroad, amounts to nearly eight
miles; requiring in this distance probably 2,200 feet of tunnelling,
and 1,000 feet of bridging; whilst for the remaining 80 miles the
sections presenting like difficulties amount to only 44 miles. With
the exception of these 141 miles, the estimate of' the work required is




104               MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
quite approximate, most of the line being on broad sandy flats or
gently sloping side hills.
The rock is all basaltic, but, being much seamed and broken, is
generally favorable for blasting. It is also well suited for rubble-stone
masonry and ballasting, for which purposes material in abundance
can be obtained from the debris at the base of the cliffs, which at
some points has its natural slope for some 100 feet of vertical height.
Clean, sharp sand of the finest quality for building purposes is in
abundance at many points.
There is no timber along the line; a few small willows, at long
intervals near the margin of the river being the only wood; pine
timber, however, can be obtained on the Yakima, 12 miles from the
Columbia,  nd also at the mouths of the Spokane and Pisquouse
rivers, which may be rafted down the main Columbia. Pines and
cedars are also found along the Clearwater, which can be brought
down the Snake and Columbia rivers.
I am, sir, most respectfully, your obedient servant,
C. R. HOWARD,
Engineer of Military Wagon Road Expedition.
Lieutenant JNO. MULLAN, U. S. 4A.,
Commanding Military Wagon Road Expedition
From  Walla- Walla to Fort  enton.
H.
CANTONMENT JORDAN,
Bitter Boot Mountains, January 5, 1860.
SIR: In consequence of the illness of Mr. Howard, who was obliged
to ietire from the field, I was placed by you in charge of his party,
and continued the survey of the Columbia and Snake rivers from the
muouth of the Umatilla river to the mouth of the Pelouse.
The work was completed on the 31st of July, after which the party
took up the line of march for your camp, which we reached on the 7th
of August, on the Coeur d' Ale'ne river. During these operations the.personnel of the party remained the same as when left by Mr. Howard.
The level was run by Mr. Johnjson. and the topography of the line
was taken by myself. The instruments used were odometer, engineer's level, and prismatic compass.
Previous to entering, on the details of the survey, which I shall give
as far as the time now at my disposal will admit, I would remark
that on the portion surveyed by me, as on that previously surveyed
by Mr. Howard, the question of grades, often so difficult a problem to
solve may be said not to exist; that is, they are so light as to cause
no difficulty whatever. It is simply a question of curves and construction; or, in other words, to put in curves which will require the
minimum amount of construction. This will be peculiarly the case
at some of the points of basaltic rock which occur on Snake river,
most of which project in the form of ledges, which can be easily taken
advantage of for the road-bed.




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                1 C 5
The   e of the river was followed throughout.  No attempt was
made at an absolute railroad location, but the best was done that the
time and means at our disposal would permit. The profile and map
will show the character of the country, and the information gained
will serve to guide future engineers to the most difficult points for
more detailed examination.
The stations referred to in this report are the level stations marked
on the profile, and commence at No. 325 on the right bank of the
Umatilla river. At this point the line is distant about half a mile
from the Columbia, but reaches it again in a mile and a half with a
descending grade of six feet per mile, pasn vrasndy earthen
~r mile, passing over a sandy earthen
flat, and then takes along the river for three miles more to station
363, on top of a rock ledge and along a gentle sand slope, which admits of a grade of 10 feet per mile. At 363 the line takes a steep,
rocky side hill, with occasional perpendicular ledges, for three and a
half miles along the promontory called the "Monumental Rocks" to
station 387, where they cease. The grade in this distance will not
exceed five feet per mile, but will probably require, say 1,000, yards
of rock cut ten feet deep. The rest will be earth excavation, and
curves will be from two to three miles radius. There is one large
ravine 300 feet wide throuh which flows a small spring branch.
This will require embankment, and a culvert of six feet span.
From station 38 to station 447, distance 5.4 miles, the ground
falls 10 feet, passing over a rolling, sandy country, where there would
be about one mile of embankment six feet high, and the retaining distance cut; average depth, three feet.
From station 447 to station 496, distance 4.18 miles, the ground
rises 15 feet, and will require very little work, except in the last
mile, where there will be about 3,400 feet, of embankment three feet
deep, and 800 feet rock cut 30 feet deep through a rocky point jutting
into the river. The level line between these stations did not follow
the selected line of location.
From station 496 for about two miles the grade will be very light,
almost nothing. There will be 200 fe'et rock cut eight feet deep, and
about 3,000 fleet of embankment; average height, five feet. A better
location could, however, be probably found by throwing the line nearer
to the foot of the hills. Thence to the Walla-Walla river station 576,
a distance of three miles, the country is rocky and broken. Points of
rock jut into the river, and ledges of rock oc'nur cut up by ravines.
The line will pass at the foot of these, with a very light grade. There
will be about one-third of the distance embankment 10 feet high and
two-thirds rock cut. A special and detailed examination will be required in order to locate the line or make an estimate of the amount
of work.
On the left bank of the Walla-Walla au embankment of 1,500 feet
long and 10 feet high would be required, and a similar one on the
right bank for a mile. A bridge, croseing about 100 yards above the
mouth of the river, of 5500 feet in length, would be required. Both
banks are of sand, there being no rock immediately on them, but that
material can be obtained in abundance from the neighboring cliffs.
The river is very rapid, and fordable in low water.




106. MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
From  station 576 to station 587, or between Walla-Walla an
Snake rivers, a distance of 10% miles, the whole country is a sandy
flat, almost level. There are but two elevations on it, neither of which
is over 20 feet in height, and both can be avoided, as well as two or
three gullies which occur, by throwing the line frther from the river
towards the low range of sand-hills which border it at the general
distance of three-fourths of a mile.
On each bank of Snake river an embankment of about 2,400 feet in
length and 10 feet in height will be required. A draw-bridge of
1,500 feet will span the river at a point about a quarter of a mile above
its mouth. The river is about 16 feet deep at this point in high water.
Curves of 1,500 feet radius will probably be necessary to approach
the bridge on either side, particularly on the right bank, when a range
of hills about 100 feet high, following down the Columbia, come close
on the bank of Snake river about one-half a mile above its mouth.
This river was crossed by the survey at this point, and the right bank
is the one always spoken of below.
From station 589 to station 598, (right bank of Snake river,) distance four miles, the line runs along the foot slopes of a range of sand
and gravel hills, having the same general grade as the river, or not
more than four feet per mile. There will be two embankments with
drains across the mouths of ravines, one of 300 feet length and three
feet depth, and another of 600 feet and same depth. Just beyond this
station is a rocky point, which will require 352 feet of cut of 35 feet
depth. For the next mile to station 601 -the line runs on a flat, following the natural surface of the ground, and crossing a slough which
will require a bridge of 75 feet length.
From station 601 to station 632, distance nine miles,, the line, with
the exception of about one-half mile when it runs on a flat, takes the
sides of gravelly hills with slopes varying from 200 to 450; no grade
in this distance will exceed 10 feet- per mile.
The mouths of several ravines are passed; three of 50 feet wide and
three feet deep; one of 30 feet wide and 10 feet deep; and one large
one of 500 feet embankment, 25 feet deep, with culvert of six feet span.
None have water in them except in the spring. The rock cutting
between these stations will not exceed 40 linear yards. All the rest
will be earth excavation. Along this portion of the line the river
makes a very large bend northward.
From station 632 to station 635, distance one mile and three-eighths,
the line runs fbr one-half a mile along the steep side of a hioh rolling
plateau, with a ledge of rock next the river, until a slough comes in
which makes a large bend towards the west and cuts off a large gravel
island.
Beyond the slough is a high rolling flat, extending for a mile to the
foot of what is called "1Anchor canton," where the river is enclosed
on either side by perpendicular ledges of basaltic rock rising directly
from the water. The cafion extends from about 646 to about a quarter
of a mile beyond station 663, where there is a deep ravine and where
it ends.
There are two distinct ledges of rock continuing, all the way to this




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                107
ravine; te lower one occasionally interrupted and narrow, and from
30 to 50 feet above the water.
These ledes are remarkably straight. All of this section, from
station 632 to 646, will need a very special and detailed examination
to ascertain the best and most economical location. The most obvious
would seem to be to cross t   above-mentioned island, which would
require two bridges of about 300 feet in length, and embankment of
about 1,500 feet in length and 30 feet in height, taking advantage of
the rolling flat, beyond whi  is much higher than the island, to
obtain the requisite grade, (which in no case would exceed 30 feet per
mile,) and thus pass the caon on the upper or lower ledge as may be
found most advisable. There will be about two and one-quarter miles
of heavy excavation and embankment, and about the same amount of
rock cutting 20 feet deep. Just beyond station 663 is a ravine about
500 feet broad, which will have to be passed, and a point of rock requiring a cut of 200 feet long, 40 feet deep. From this point to station
721, distance seven and one-half miles, the line will run generally on
the sides of gravel hills with slopes of from 20~ to 40~, with about a
mile of rolling plateau. There will be some seven or eight large
ravines requiring embanments of friom 100 to 400 feet in length and
an average depth of 10 feet, with culverts, and nutmerous small gullies
only requiring drains. There will be about 4,000 feet of rock cut with
an average depth of six feet and about 500 feet of retaining wall.
Grades very light, not more than 10 feet per mile.
From station 721 to station 738, distance two miles, will require a
deta.led examination to determine the best location. About one-half a
mile consists of a rolling plateau cut up by ravines on top, with two rock
ledges at the base and part (one and a half mile) of a bluff, the face of
which is composed of alternate broken ledges of rock and steep earthen
slopes. The line on the profile gives the levels on top where the instrument was enabled to run, above which again are other perpendicular
ledges or cliffs over 200 feet high. A line can be obtained along the
faoe of this bluff by taking advantage of the ledges of rock, and the
use of retaining walls.
It is impossible to give any definite idea of the amount of work, but
most of it will be rook cutting. A tunnel would not be needed, and
the grade would not exceed 20 feet.
From station 738 to station 742, distance one and three-quarters
mile, the line runs generally along side hills with slopes of from 200
to 300, where the grade will be light. In this distance there are four
ravines, embankments from 60 to 200 feet in length and average depth
of 25 feet.  Culverts four feet span. 
From station 742 to the Pine Tree rapids, distance three and onequarter miles, the river is bordered by steep hills cut up by ravines.
The lower portion of these hills consists of broken ledges of basaltic
rock, points of which jut into the river, anLd have elevations of from
30 to 75 feet above the river. There are five ravines which will require
bridges or embankments of from 100 to 350 feet, and two which are
900 teet broad. There are rock ledges on both sides of all these ravines.
The grades would be light, but at least one-half of the work would be
in rock cutting, the remainder earth excavation and embankment.




108                MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
From Pine Tree rapids to station 757, distance three miles, the line
would run along a broken rocky ledge with   descendiggradeof 20
feet per mile. This last section will have about 2,000 yards of rock
cutting 10 feet deep. The rest being earth excavation on side slope
of one and one-half to one. Three ravines are to be passed, 275, 300,
and 350 feet broad, on the line. Th section will require a very
particular examination, being probably the most difficult on the whole
river. From station 757 to station 758, distance one and one-quarter
mile, the line of location selected does not follow the line exhibited
on the profile, but takes the bank of the river with an ascending gade
of 15 feet. Two large ravines will be passed requiring culverts of 10
feet span. From station 778 to statioa 783, distance two miles, the
line has a descending grade of 10 feet per mile, and presents no difficulty as it follows the curve of the river bank on side slopes of earth,
varying from 15~ to 45~, and intersected by only two ravines of any
size, requiring culverts of 10 feet span
From station 783 to station 797, distance 2 miles, the line can be
located either according to the line shown on the profile or on either
side of it, as may seem on minute examination the best line to approach
a basaltic cliff which juts out into the river. There is no difficulty
whatever on any of these lines, and no rock cutting.
At station 797 the cliff commences and continues for about a mile.
There are three ledges of rock running parallel to the water but not
continuous. Curves of 1,500 feet radius would be required at station
799, and the line can run around the face of the cliff on the lower
ledge. There will be rock cutting for a mile with an average depth
of 15 feet. This point will require a very particular examination.
The grade will not exceed 10 feet per mile. Within the next half
mile to station 799 there are three large ravines which will require
embankments of from 200 to 300 feet in length and 20 feet in depthculverts of 10 feet span. In the above-mentioned cliff the first ledge
rises about 50 feet above the water, has an average breadth of 30 feet,
and would be the best location for the road.
From station 799 to station 822, distance 4 miles1 the line runs on
the side slopes of hills, varying from 100 to 300. The grade will not
exceed 6 feet per mile, and the section presents no difficulty whatever.
The mouths of' 17 ravines are crossed, the largest being 150 feet wide
and 10 feet deep, the smallest 30 feet wide and 8 feet deep.  No rock
cutting in this section.
From station 822 to station 825, distance 5j miles, the line runs
partly at the foot of' basaltic cliffs and partly at the foot of steep earth
slopes crowned with basaltic rock. There is a regular beach of rock
boulders along, the whole of this distance, and the level line was run
on this below high-water mark. An embanikment with retainingowall
can be easily made at the foot of these cliffs, the total amount of which
would be I~ mile and 15 feet high, besides which there would be
about 600 feet of rock cutting 5 feet deep. There are four ravines to be
passed requiring embankments of from 100 to 400 feet in length and
12 feet higTh. The rest will be side-hill excavation.
From station 825 to station 836, distance 41 miles, the line for 3
miles runs along gentle side slopes; for 11 mile the side hills are at




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                109
an angle of 450, and covered in one or two places with loose rock, where
retaining walls are necessary. The grades can be thrown above or
below, as may be found best. There are three large ravines requiring
embankments offrom 100 to 150 feet and 10 feet deep.  There will
be about 200 yards retaining wall.
From station 833 to station 836, distance 13 mile, the line, as shown
on the profile, was run directly across the band-hills to the mouth of
the Pelouse river, but would not be the selected line of location.
Should the line go up the Pelouse to gain the table land it would be
thrown on the side hill above; or should it pass the mouth of that
stream it would keep below on the river bank, where it would run on
gentle side slopes. The grades and amount of work would, of course, be
widely different on the two lines. Neither, however, would present
any difficulty.
Bench-marks were established at the "Monumental Rocks," at old
Fort Walla-Walla, near the mouth of that stream, and in two places,
one near and the other at the mouth of the Pelouse. All were cut in
the solid rock and the height above the base line on the last one.
It will be seen by the above report that the survey made by me
divides itself naturally into three sections. The 1st, from the Umatilla
(station 35) to the Walla-Walla river; 2d, from the Walla-Walla to
the mouth of Snake river; 3d, from the mouth of Snake river to the
mouth of the Pelouse.
In the 1st section distance 22 miles, there are 6a miles of difficult
work, rock cutting generally, and requiring a special examination to
determine the best line of loci~tion. The rest is either side-hill cutting
or embankment in sandy earth, and presents no difficulty whatever.
There will be 550 feet of bridging.
In the 2d section, distance 10J miles, there is no difficulty whatever.
The line will pass over a sand fiat, the excavation and embankment
will not exceed i 0 feet in depth at any point where there is no rock,
and no structures required except a draw-bridge of I1,500 feet across
snake river.
The 3d section, distance 5 91 miles, presents much greater difficulties
than the others, in consequence of the basaltic cliffs and broken ledges
of' rock which occur at the several points mentioned in the above
report. None, however, involve greater difficulties than have already
been overcome on railroads in the eastern States, and all of these
places can be passed without tunnels and with easy grades. There
will be 151 miles of' the-above distance which will be nearly all rock
cutting along these cliffs, and which will require a particular instiunmental examination to determine the best grade with which to approach
them, and the best location to pass with the least work. Of the
remaining distance 39 miles will be in side-hill excavation with
occasional rock cutting. The location of the line will be very easy;
and the character of the ground will admit of very li'ght grades, the
highest not exceeding 30 feet per mile. Embankment will be chiefly
across ravines, of which there is a large number, and perhaps three miles
across flats, with an average depth of 15 feet, depending on the location
of the road,
The amount of curvature will be very great in consequence of the




110 Io        MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
tortuous course of the river. The least radius will be a thousand
feet; and very flat curves can be employed with great effect in passing
the basaltic cliffs to diminish the amount of work.
Basalt was the only rock found on the Columbia and Snake rivers
in the limits of the survey. It is full of seams, much of it columnar
basalt, and will, I think, be easy to blast. It is excellent for rubblestone masonry and ballasting, and can be obtained in the greatest
profusion, as well as the finest quality of sand. There are remarkably
few springs above the level of the river; and the soil is generally
sandy, but has abundance of excellent grass both on the river and
the hills.
With the exception of a few willows of small size, there is no timber
on the Columbia and Snake rivers up to the mouth of the Pelouse.
Wood for railroad purposes can be procured, as is well known, from
the Upper Columbia, the Yakima, and the Clearwater, and rafted down;
and it may not be irrelevant to remark that the location of the line
directly on the banks of two large and navigable streams will afford
unequalled facilities for the transportation of the men, their tools,
provisions, and the iron for the road.
The right bank of Snake river was the one surveyed, as it was
reported to offer the least obstacles to a railroad location.  The left
bank seemed to be more difficult, looking, at it across the river; but it
is almost needless to say that no final location could be properly made
until both sides had been instrumentally examined.
I am, sir,'with much respect, your obedient servant,    I
W. W. DE LACY, Civil Engineer.
Lieutenant JOHN MULLAN,
U. S. Army, Commanding ltfilitary Waqon Road
Expedition from, Walla- fI'alla to Fort Benton.




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.
I.
FORT OWEN,
Bitter Root Valley, W. T., January 8, 1860.
DEAR SIR: Agreeably to your instructions of November 5, 1859,
to make a reconnoissance eastward from the St. Regis Borgia river to
Fort Benton, in order to ascertain in detail the character of te line
for the proper location of the military wagon road, and in order to
arrange the working parties for spring's operations, and at the sae
time collect data regarding the climatology of the main range of the
Rocky  mountains in midwinter, I left your camp  on  Wolf's
prairie, on the St. Regis Borgia river, with Major John Owen,
ndian  agent to  the  Flathead  nation, November 7, 1859, and
reached Fort Owen, after seven days' march, on the ]13th, estimatin  the distance  at 132.5  miles.   The wea'her  becomin
very cold, and the snow falling continually, we had in that short
journey many little difficulties to overcome, which delayed us considerably, and thereby impressing nme with the idea that a reconnissance
under such circumstances would bring but poor results; I therefore
addressed you November 14th a note, in which I informed you of the
disadvantages under which I had to undertake the work, mentioning
at the same time that I would remain at Fort Owen until I received
further instruction from you; A sudden change in the weather induced
me, however, to determine to start, but the difficulty to find a person
who knew the wagon road trail delayed me until the 22d of November, at which date I left Fort Owen, accompanied by. E. Irvine,
esq., two.'Laboring men with six riding and four pack animals. I
made that day twenty miles against a strong cold north wind, and
camped on the Bitter Root river November 23; two of the riding animals, belonging to Mr. Irvine and myself, had strayed during the
night. I made a ltate start, 9 a. m. Mr. Irvine turned the two
missing animals, in case they should be found, over to Mr. Jacobs, to
go down to your camp; at 11 a. m. I crossed the upper Hell-Gate
crossing, at which place the river is divided by an island. The stream
was heavily floating with ice, and the crossing rendered difficult by a
strong ice cover extending from. both shores some twenty feet into the
river. The day was cold, and a strong wind blew from and through
the cai'ion. In three-fourths of a mile we came to Rattlesnake creek,
which is one-fourth of a mile from the mouth of the caiion, and found
much difficulty in crossing it on account of ice; from here the ground
rises very gradually for one and one-half mile, at the end of which
a steep descent of some sixty feet to the lower plateau would require
some work; if the road through it kept near the river, which will occasion a little detour, this place can be avoided. The ground being
gravelly and loose, any earth-work in the lower portion of' the defile
would be easy, and quickly accomplished. We passed over said lower
plateau for one-half mile, and came then to a steep ascent, (,sixty or
eighty feet,) which cannot be avoided. There is a kind of ridge running towards the river, with an almost level top of forty yards in
width at the foot of' its westerly side, which has a steep slope of sixty
feet. The road crosses a small creek; the ascent on the other side is




112                MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
about twenty-five feet, then three-fourths of a mile level ground, then
crosses White Thorn creek with almost undistinguishable banks, then
one mile level ground about thirty feet above the surface of the water,
thence to the crossing of the Bigr Blackfoot river twenty yards above
its mouth.  No difficulty for wagons t get in and out of the river.
Depth of water, two feet in the channel. Between this river and the
first Hell-Gate crossing, which is five and one-fourth miles distant the
road leads through open timber and level ground. Two creeks have
to be crossed, the second one with miry bottom; after making the river
crossing, which is a good one, the character of the country is in every
respect favorable for wagons. The ground is level, firm, and is covered
with open timber for two miles.  I then reached the second crossing
the river here forms many arms, which overflow at times the enclosed
islands, and renders them in places miry. Then for three-fourths of
a mile through open timber to a little creek one-fourth mile from
there, reached a prairie one and three-fourth mie in length and onehalf mile in width, at the end of which I crossed a little creek and
went to camp, made twenty-three miles, snow on the ground about
two inches deep; great many icy places on the road to-day, where the
snow has melted and frozen again. AlittlesnowfallstoWardsevening.
November 24. —It snowed during the nightand westarted at 9
a. m. in quite a heavy snow-storm.  After three miles travelling
through open timber, came to a prairie three miles long, at the end of
which we crossed the river (third crossing) which forms an island,
and one and one-tenth mile further, crossed Rocky creek at a point
where it also forms an island. This creek is rapid, large, and two
feet deep, with big boulders in its bed; then three and one-half miles
open timber, then three-fourths of a mile over a piece of ground which
cannot be called either prairie or timber land, the trees standing at
such a distance from each other that the road can be laid straight over
it, thence to the fourth crossing,; thence three-fourths of a mile through
open timber, with a good deal of underbrush, thence across a prairie
three and one. half miles long to a creek which ruins along Beaver-tail
Point. This is a tolerably high and steep hill, which will require some
work to make it practicable for heavy wagons; the hill forms a single
spur of one-half mile in width, terminating at the river in a perpendicular bluff. The present wagon road makes here two crossings of the,
river to avoid this place, (fifth and sixth crossings.) Then one and onefourth mile over prairie bottom to the river crossing (fifth) by the
trail and (seventh) for the present wagon ro'ad. This crossing might
be avoided by keeping the road on the right bank, but it would require
some earth-work arid the bridging of a little creek which runs in a
steep ravine. This creek has been named Gold creek, as Colonel
Lander is said to have found gold specimens in it. One-fourth mile
from the fifth crossing (by trail) a bad slough has to be crossed; then
one and one-fourth mile over prairie bottom to the sixth crossing,
(eighth by present wagon road;) then one-fourth niile over prairie to
Little creek; then one-fourth mile, over prairie to the seventh crossing, (ninth by present wagoii road;) then one-fifth mile through open
timber to the eighth crossing, (tenth by present wagon road;) thence
the trail takes over a side hill, about 250 yards from the last crossing.




BENTON TO FORT WALL&-WALLA.                 113
The wagon road keeps in the bottom, and makes the eleventh crossing
a little below, where the low  water trail crosses, the wagon road
would make the twelfth crossing. After going for one half mile
trough open pine timber, and then go over a fine prairie one-fourth
mile in length to the thirteenth crossing. Instead of following the
low water trail, which forks here, one part making the river crossing,
the other winding around the rocky bluff which springs out into the
river I took to the high water trail, which led me high up on the
ill side. This trail turns, after striking the above mentioned prairie,
over a little swelling of the bottom, to the river crossing; thence onevalf mile through the bottom, which is cut up by a miry slough, towards the hill bluff, which has a steep slope. At this point the wagon
road will keep a little to the south, or right of the trail, to gain the
saddle of the projecting ridge. This place will require some earthwork that cannot be avoided, and has offered a great deal of difficulty
to all the waons which have come yet from Fort Benton. Reaching
the opposite foot of this hill, which is one-fourth mile from base to
base, the road gains in three-fourths mile, going over prairie ground,
a slough which is said to be very bad in summer time. Then strikes
over a prairie three miles long, called " Cold prairie," to a ridge running in the same direction as the first one. This spur, which is not
so high as the previous one, can be avoided by the wagon road by
keeping close to its foot around the point. This, though, will involve
a detour of three-fourths mile, and I think, with little work, the
ascent of it can be made by taking advantage of a little ravine which
runs up the hill side close to the trail. After reaching the top of the
hill a very gradual descent of one-half mile over prairie ground
bringys tlw trail to a little creek; then three-fourths mile over prairie
to an old river bed, or to a lower river bottom; then one-half mile
along this bottom to camp; made 27 miles. Snow two and one-half
inches deep. It snows a little towards evening.
November 25.-Snowing all night, and still continued this morning.
Started at 10 a. in., our horses having strayed. Cold day. Went over
the prairie bottom for three-qu'mrters of' a inile; then the trail takes
to the hills, and crosses in one-half mile a small creek. The wag-on
road can avoid this hill by keeping around it, and striking the trail
again a -out one-half' mile beyond the creek crossing. Then for one
and three-quarter mile over rolling prairie ground to two little
creeks, which run close to each other, separated only by a small
elevation; both of these creeks have miryr bottoms; the Hell-Gate
river being separated by a bare ridge from the road, and is completely hidden from  view.  Then for one-half mile over rolling
prairie to another creek, taking  immlediately after crossing it, to
a considerable prairie ridge coming, from the south, and tbrmning
a connexion with the hill range, gwhich separates the road from
the Hell-Gate bottom; some grading will be required here, but it is
light work. Following that ridge for two and a halt'miles in an easterly direction, with its ups and downs-all of which will require some
side-hill cutting-we reached a small creek; then over a small gently
sloping hill to a small spring branch —from creek to creek about
eighty yards; then take to the oppoksi e hill, where also some grading
will be found necessary, and in one-fifth mile reach a second spring.
H. Ex. Doc. 44-~8




114                MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
Ascending the next hill, requiring also side-ill cutting, the Flint
Creek valley lays before us, whence I commenced the gradual descent,
and reached it after four and three-quarter miles' travelling. Flint
creek has little wood on it, but still good camping places may be found
above the crossing place. The creek is two and a half feet deep, but
the banks not high. After crossing Flint creek, in one-tenth mile
we crossed a small branch of it; then for one-quarter mile through
the valley bottom; thence three-quarters of a mile over rolling prairie
hills, forming the river bluff of Hell-Gate river to the valley itself.
The descent from these prairie bluffs, at the place where the trail
strikes it, is rather steep, and requires cutting; but I am confident
that by a little examination a better place could be found. Following up the Hell-Gate bottom for one and a half miles I camped on a
creek; after crossing it, the trail bends about according to the shape
of the creek, which makes an elbow towards the north. In two and
three-quarter miles cross a second creek, and then follow up the valley
for three and one-fourth miles, winding part of the way around the
swampy bottom of the river. This portion of the valley is cut by a
great many ditches, all of which are filled up with drifted snow
often to the depth of four feet; the snow at a level in the valley is
five inches deep. The trail is unbroken, and our animals have had
hard work to keep up a good marching trot. After crossing a hill
spur of three-quarters of a mile in width, with gentle slopes on both
sides, I took up the bottom again for two and a quarter miles, and
then went to camp; made twenty-two and a half miles.  The da
has been clear but cold. The prairie bluffs are almost bare of snow,
which has been deposited by the wind in the valley. I am confident
that the wagon road can he located in such a manner as to Pun. almost
straight, as the valley, which is one and three-quarters of a mile wide,
and the -river bed,'though winding much, keeps well to its centre,
without touching the bluffs.
November- 26.-Started at 81 a. m. Two mules have strayed off.
Cold morning; snowed heavily. Travelled one mile through a bottom; then crossed "IHumbug creek," which has a fine valley running
up towards the pine-clad mountains; crossing this valley, reached,
after three-eighths of a mile, the fourteenth crossing of the THe'I-Gate
river; this crossing we made in the ice. All the former crossings
and those of the Big Blackfoot are rocky.
Flint and Humbug creeks have offered us more or less difficulty, as
the shores were frozen on both sides, requiring a leap from the ice
into the water and out again on the icy shore, which always endangered our animals, the ice being bare of snow. Hell-Gate river here
is a bold, rapid stream, from eighty to one hundred yards wide, with
a channel of two feet in depth. After making the crossing I travelled for two hundred yards over a prairie bottom; then crossed a
small timbered point; then took to a little side hill, which will require some side-hill cutting. The present wagon road makes at this
point two crossings, being not more -than one hundred and twenty
yards apart. The trail, after leaving this side hill, will require more
work, being rocky and longer than the first one mentioned. At this
place the wagon road makes two more crossings of' the river; then




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                115
one-quarter of a mile over prairie, up the bottom, to a place where
the road winds for one hundred and eighty yards around the side hills,
to avoid the crossing of a miry slough formed by a spring; around
those ills, which are a little sideling, very little work will make this
a good road. Then for one and a quarter mile over level prairie, up
a bottom; then cross a creek  then follow up a prairie bottom for
one-third mile; then cross a coulee, which wagons can avoid by keeping to the left of the trail; then go up the bottom for three-quarters
of a mile; then cross a little hill spur, which may possibly require
grading; then for two hundred yards over prairie bottom to a creek;
then up a level prairie bottom for two and a quarter miles; then the
river takes a short turn to the south, and there also the trail forksone passing up Deer Lodge valley. The wagon road here leaves the
river, and crossing the valley takes to a gently sloping side hill, and
after one and a quarter mile strikes the Little Blackfoot river about
one and a half mile above its junction with the Deer Lodge creek.
From the top of said hill the junction of these waters can be seen, and
also the lower portion of the big valley. None or very little work
will be required to bring heavy wagons up to the top of the hill without
doubling teams; but it may be that some winding about in the descent
would be necessary, as some deep hollows cut up the easterly slope.
From the foot of the hill one-half mile through the bottom of the
Little Blackfoot valley we camped, having made eight and a half
miles.
Mr. John Grant has settled near the junction of the two branches
of the Hell-Gate river, and built two log-houses. It snowed since 4
a. in., and for some time pretty heavily; at 11 a. m. it cleared off.
The snow here is not so deep as below; it measures, on a level,, three
inches. 
November- 2T.-Very cold morning. Started at 9.45 a. m. Had much
delay in finding the animals; one mile up a prairie bottom; then oneeighth of a mile over a side hill, which will'require cutting; then oneeighth of a mile up a bottom, partly through brushwood; then winding for a quarter of a mile around the river bluffs, where work will.
be necessary; but in keeping the road along the right bank six crossings of the river would be avoided. Gaining the hill-slope the road,
strikes in half a mile a creek, and crosses in half a mile fuirther a
second one, the intermediate space being slightly undulating ground.
After ascending a gently sloping hill, I followed its rolling surface
for two and a quarter miles and began then the very steep descent.
Here a careful examination of the ground would have to be made to
find the best location for the wagon road. This descent of about 3500
feet offers one of the greatest difficulties on the whole route. Of the
two ravines to the right and left of the trail, one or the other may be
adapted to the purpose, if not, considerable work, similar to the
descent to the St. Joseph's river, will be found' necessary.  After
reaching the foot of the hill the road runs up the river bottom for
three-quarters of a mile and crosses at that distance the Little Blackfoot at a point where it forms a timbered island a quarter of a mile in
width; both crossings are good and with gravelly bottoms; depth of
water about one foot and three-quarters and width of from 15 to 20




116                MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
feet. The opposite hill, which the road has to cross, is called the
mountain, and said to be more formidable than the divide of the Rocky
mountains. From the fbot to the top of the hill the distance is one
eighth of a mile, and I am confident that by two turns, which will
involve some side-hill cutting, a good and easy grade can be attained.
The present road does not ascend the hill at the place where the trail
is located, but keeps for a mile further up the valley, which forms
here a kind of cafion, and then ascends the hill by taking advantage
of a coulee, which runs up to the top of the mountain, with little
work. It is said that a good road can be made there, but it will
make four river crossings necessary.
From the top of the hill, for three-quarters of a mile, over gently
rolling ridges, to a timbered point of one-tenth of a mile in width
a quarter of a mile further, over ground of the same character, I
gained the topmost ridge; then commenced the very graual descent,
over an undulating surface, towards the Little Blackfoot River valley,
which I gained in two and a quarter miles. At the foot of the last
slope crossed Irvine's creek, which has miry shores. At this point
the wagon road could, after crossing, follow down the bottom of that
creek, then cross the Little Blacktfoot river and strike over an apparently easily graded hill towards the north fork of the Little Blackfoot
river. This road, though it is said to bea bad one in its present condition, is worth examining, as it would save four or five miles in
distance.
The present wagon road takes in a quarter of a mile after crossing
the botturm of Irvine's creek to a gradually ascending hill spur, the
surface being covered with stones, which it follows for one mile and a
half, requiring no work at all to bring, wagons over; then cross
Buffalo-head creek; then following up the level bottouf of the Little
Blackfoot for one mile and a'halt; reach a slough, and in one mile
further a second one, which must be very bad in spring and summer.
In three-quarters of a mile, still following up the valley, I crossed
the Little Blackfoot river at Belknap's camp, after passing a plateau
which is elevated about six feet over the level of the valley. Ascending the almost level valley on the right bank of the river, I reached,
in three and a half miles, a kind of terrace or high. bottom, 250 feet
in length and terminated by the prairie bluff, coming in close to the
river and forcing the present wagon road to make two crossings; with
little work the road, though, can be kept on the right bank. Passing
this side hill the ground is level for a quarter of a mile, and then
another side hill closes in, which will require some work for 85 to 90
yards. At this point two more crossings are made by the wagon road.
in, order to avoid a small rocky ridge which springs out into the
valley the road turns to the northeast, and passing the saddle of the
ridge, crowned by a few pine trees, strikes, in three-eighths of a mile
fromt the turning point, the north fork of the Little Blackfoot river.
The forking point is about half a mile below; here, again, the present
wagon, road crosses the river twice to avoid two side hills, which in
the space of half a mile runs in towards the river. I think, though,
that the little work that would be necessary to keep the road on the
xight bank would not justify the crossing of the river, which seems to




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                 117
have miry shores. Came to camp after having made 19 miles. The
day has been very cold, and towards evening a chilling northeast
wind makes the cold still more severe. Snow varies in depth from
two to four inches.
November 28.-Started at 9.20 a. m. Cold, but clear, morning. Up
the valley for 200 yards, then turn a sharp side hill, and immediately afterwards ascend a very sideling hill. From the place where
the sharp point comes down to the easterly foot of the second hill,
three-quarters of a mile distance; then up the valley, which becomes
very narrow for one and three quarters of a mile; the trail winding
for the last three-quarters of a mile around the side hill. The wagon
road, though, as the ground appears to me now, can keep lower down,
thereby avoiding work. At the end of that distance, a bad rocky
point has to be passed, and I think the wagon road could cross here,
with advantage to its location, and keep for three-quarters of a mile
on its left bank. First turning, at a distance of one eighth of a mile,
a gently sloping hill spur, and the crossing, a half mile farther up,
a small tributary of the Little Blackfoot, where the road could recross
to the right bank, is a fine prairie, at a place where the valley widens
considerably. The trail, which runs along the right bank, crosses a
half mile from the last rocky hill, spur, or creek, which runs in a
valley leading north to a spot where the Little Blackfoot valley is
strongly bending to the east. Should the road be kept on the right
bank of the river, the work is loose rock. Around the point where I
propose to make the crossing would extend from 50 to 60 feet; from
there, for two and three-quarters miles, no earth work would be necessary, only a corduroy of 35 feet over a wet place formed by a spring
coming from a hill spur. Two hundred and sixty yards from there,
another wet place, originating in the same manner, can be avoided
by keeping closer to the creek, where the ground appears to be dry.
I think it necessary that this portion of the road should be carefully
examined, because the valley is said to be miry in the extreme during
spring and summer, and probably it will be inevitable to cut the road
here high up on the side hill. From the last-mentioned wet place,
a haltf mile up the valley bottom, requires no work at all; here the
road must cross the creek and keep on its left bank all the way up, as
a long hill spur, which would require a quarter of a mile earth work,
runs close on to the creek, one mile and a quarter from where I propose the wagon road to run. The trail crosses the creek also, taking
to the valley toward the divide, leaving the Little Blackfoot valley,
which extends to the north, up the hills to the left. Following the
eastern valley for an eighth of a mile, I came to a ravine of an eighth
of a mile in length, which, though narrow, will offer no difficulty to
the location of the road, crossing the little water-run which empties
at the last-mentioned crossing of the Little Blackfoot. I went for
three quarters of a mile over a level plain, which is situated just at
the foot of the divide; then for three-eighths of a mile to the top of
the divide, where I found the snow from four to five inches deep. On
the westerly slope, in some places, the snow has a depth of from six
to eight inches; the easterly slope was covered with only from two to




118                MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
three inches. A strong northeast wind struck us as soon as we gained
the above-mentioned plain, lulling only towards sunset.
The natural surface of the ground, though open timbered, will
probably require no work, though in places the grade is oewat
steep. At the foot of the divide, a quarter of a mile from the top, I
struck the headquarters of Big Prickly Pear creek; one mile and
three-quarters further, a little branch of running water, coming from
the north, crosses the road. Just before reaching this creek a little
side-hill cutting will have to be done, and also on the other side of it
are points where the hills come close to the creek; the valley widens
considerably and affords good camping places. On the east side of
Stormy creek the ground is level for three-eighths of a mile; then a
side-hill cut of 20 yards will bring the road again in an almost level
plain for three-quarters of a mile; at the end of which the wagon
road leaves the Indian trail, which leads down the Big Prickly Pear,
and takes to the west over a small side hill covered with pedrigal rock,
and in a half mile crosses a dry water-run. An eighth of a mile further a second one is crossed; taking then a half mile over a gently
sloping hill, covered with pedrigal rock of large size, a thin waterrun is crossed; ascending from there a gently sloping hill, covered
with a few red cedars. I gained, in a half mile from the last dry
water run, the narrow valley of Fir creek, a tributary to the Big
Prickly Pear creek; a few steep places in the descent will offer no
difficulty for wagons. The ascent on the other side of Fir creek is
very steep, but a ravine, running to the right of the trail, will facilitate the location of the wagon road; an eighth of a mile is the distance from the creek to the top of the hill, which slopes very gradually.
On the opposite side, for a quarter of a mile, towards a dry pond,
which extends to the next hill, of easy ascent and descent. The latter
one terminated by a dry water-run; distance from the spot where I
struck the dry pond to the dry water-run is three-quarters of a mile.
The next p rairie hill is tolerably high and of a grade so steep that
doubling teams will be necessary for heavily laden wagons. At this
ascent, if possible, the road should be located at another point, as the
present trail is cut up by many narrow but deep coule's. Ascending
a hill one quarter of a mile long, from the top of which is a fine view
of the Upper Missouri valley, the gate of the mountains and of a small
portion of' the Rocky mountains, Heart mountain, can be distinctly
seen, and also the direction of the wagon road for ten or eleven miles,
to a point where it crosses Soft Bed creek. After crossing a dry waterrun we passed over some rolling ground and descended to Silver creek,
one of the tributaries to the Big Prickly Pear creek; thence to camp.
Distance from top of last'hill to camp four miles and a half. Made,
to-day, nineteen miles and three-quarters. Our animals are getting
weak; the want of sufficient nourishment commences to tell on them.
The day, which commenced cold and cloudy, became clear as soon as
the wind sprang up, and towards evening it became quite mild.
November 29.-Started at 91 a. mn. Our horses had wandered. far off
during the night in search of grass. Mild, cloudy morning. For
five miles and three-quarters passed over undulating, firm prairie
ground, to a small creek with miry shores, bordered by small willows,




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                 119
whence its name of Willow creek; thence two miles and a quarter
over very gently downward-sloping prairie, part of which is covered
with brushwood, to Soft Bed creek, a branch of Small Prickly Pear
creek. After crossing it, I went up its valley in an easterly direction
for two miles, at the end of which a little side branch will have to be
crossed. For the last half mile the side hills close in so narrowly to
the creek bed that in some places hill-cutting will be found necessary,
but the distances where work is required are short and the ground not
difficult. For one-fourth of a mile further the character of the ground.
remains the same as described; then, by turning a little more to the
north the road gains the hill-side, and gradually ascending reaches
in two miles the top of a little divide. The road before coming to the
last ascent, the trail to its right taking advantage of a small ravine,
which facilitates the ascent considerably. The valley on the other
side is quite narrow, and remains so for half a mile, until a point is
reached where the creek will have to be crossed and immediately
recrossed. A little work now and then in this distance will be necessary at points where the side hills are too sloping. At this place the
valley widens considerably, and a good camping place for a large train
can be had. I suppose, though, that the valley must be wet, as the
trail keeps on the westerly side hills and recrosses the creek only
three-quarters of a mile below where the valley bends to the north.
In fifty yards the trail recrosses again, and remains on the west side
of the creek all the way down to the Little Prickly Pear creek. In
two miles and a half more it passes along in an easy slope, which is
occasionally cut up by small ravines, but offering no difficulties to the
wagon road. Little Prickly Pear creek, which runs at the place where
I struck it in a large valley, is twelve feet wide and one foot and a
half deep. The banks of the creek in this plain are lined with
willows, but higher up and lower down large trees will be found.
The creek, coming from the Rocky mountain chain, cuts through a
narrow caton to join the broad bottom, and forces its way after three
miles through a rocky mountain range, forming a narrow gorge.
After crossing the creek, we proceeded in a northerly direction
towards Medicine rock. The day had become very warm, and we had
hoped to have been able to reach Mullan creek before dark, but after
riding for one mile a sudden northwesterly gale forced us to seek
shelter in the willows of the creek just crossed. In less than half a
minute our horses were covered with white frost, and the air was filled
with an icy, foggy substance, which after some time gave way to a
heavy snowfall. Recrossing Little Prickly Pear creek, we found a
tolerably good camp in the willows. We made, to-day, fourteen
miles headway, but travelled sixteen miles.
November 30.-Remained in camp to-day;. The gale has not abated
in the least, and the snow still falls in abundance.
December 1.-The night has been cold and stormy. At 9 a. m. the
sun broke through the clouds, and I started at 11 a. m. It was very
cold, and the snow was five inches deep; and the road leading to
Medicine rock strikes in three-fourths of a mile a little creek, and
following it up for half a mile strikes the foot of the hill range. Here
the trail battles a very steep ascent, which the wagon road can make




120                MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
more gradually in keeping to a ravine runnin  to the left of the trail.
Reaching the top of the first hill, a good road with easy grades leads
towards Medicine rock, and from there descends to a small creek called
Medicine Rock creek. The descent will requiresome side-hill work
in places where the slope is too steep. From the foot of the bill to
the creek is two miles. The next three miles of the road, which
brought us to Mullan's creek, will require work in different laces, as
the trail keeps along the side hills.'Two hollows, the first one pretty
deep, will have to be passed, and a few trees to be cut, to bring wagons
through with four or five yoke of oxen. The ascent on the other side
of the creek is steep, but short, and then the character of the ground
for two miles further remains the same as described. At the end of
that distance the road leads towards Prickly Pear Creek valley, thence
over a bare hill, the descent of which will offer no difficulty except in
one point, which, for the present, is made passable by a couple of logs
stretched from side to side of a low rocky precipice, to give in that
narrow passage the required breadth to the road. Reachin  the
valley, I crossed a creek coming from the west half a mile distant from
the bending point of the trail on top of the  ill, then half a mile
through the bottom of the valley, keeping close to the ill-side, through
which, in connexion with the vegetation of the valley matters, we
believe that it is of a miry character. Taking again to the side ills,
I reached in two miles the head of what is called Prickly Pear can,
and went to camp. The last portion of the road will also require
some side hill work, which in some places may prove more difficult,
as the ground is rocky. Made, to-day, III miles.
December 2.-The wind blew a perfect gale last night. The morning is very cold, and our animals appear much reduced. The snow
in the valley is four inches deep and covered with a hard crust, which
makes pawing for the grass by the animals difficult. At the head of
the cation through which the road passes a small creek, coming from
the north, empties into Prickly Pear creek. By information I learned
that by following up this creek a good road can be obtained, avoiding
thereby all the crossings which are inevitable by following down the
Little Prickly Pear. In taking this direction a little detour might,
be made, but it is said that no obstacle of any moment would be in
ihe way. Started at 9.22 a. m. At the entrance of the cafion, where
the first crossing will have to be made, after having crossed the creek
alluded to at its mouth, we found that the usually travelled road here
has been made impracticable by beavers. Finding a good place to
cross, we followed down the cafion for eight and a half miles, making
seven crossings, all of which were greatly obstructed by ice. The
intermediate ground is partly covered with pine timber and partly
with brushwood of different heights. After the seventh crossing the
cation becomes wider and forms a valley, affording ample room for
camping places, with good grass on the low side hills for the animals.
In half a mile from the sevc nth crossing I reached the eighth, which
is situated at the foot of the northerly hill bluff. All the crossings
are shallow with firm giavelly bottoms, and the banks offer no difficulty. After ascending the low bluff, which will be easily rendered
practicable for wagons, the road leads over prairie ridges with -easy




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                121
slopes, to a small creek two and a half miles distant, which empties
into the Missouri river a few hundred yards below the Little Prickly
Pear creek. From the crossing point the road follows the creek for
three miles, for which distance no work will be necessary, except at
one point, where the side hills close in narrowly. At the end of this
distance a low but steep ridge is ascended by the trail. Before reaching this point the wagon road must cross the creek and follow it for
tree-eits of a mile higher up, then recross the creek and surmount
the ridge, the second ill spur, which is the largest, but is of easy
grade, offering no difficulty in its slope. The descent on the other
side, which terminates at a dry creek three-fourths of a mile distant
from the one I just left, is in some places steep, but not sideling.
The next ridge, measuring from base to base three fourths of a mile,
is not so high as the previous one, nor is it as steep. After crossing
a dry branch I reached, in two and three-fourths miles, travelling
over undulating ground which would require no work, another dry
water-run. At this point the above-mentioned road, which leaves the
one here described at the head of the cafion, would again fall in with
the present wagon road. In three miles further I struck the Dearborn
Rver valley; the ground is undulating prairie for this last distance,
andocharacteristic can be mentioned regarding it.  Half a mile from
the Dearborn valley a small creek will have to be crossed. A high and
well-timbered ridge to the eastward indicates the Missouri River valley,
and a curiously formed hill range. To the north of the Dearborn are
good landmarks for the traveller who cannot form his course by the uniformly undulating plateau. The road will have to keep up the Dearborn River valley for one-half mile, to come opposite to the crossing
point. The valley itself is richly timbered, but cut up by a great
many sloughs'and ditches, which run in every direction. Dearhorn
river is a shallow stream of from fifty to sixty feet in width, with a
gravelly bottom and swift current. The wind has been blowing hard
and cold all day from the southwest, and is still increasing in force
made seventeen miles; snow five inches deep.
December 3.-It has been a windy night; our tent was blown
down, and I was fearful that some of the shallow-rooted bottom trees
would be blown on top ofius. This morning it isquite mild. Started
at lj a. m. to make Sun river in good time. The ground is generally
undulating- from the north bank of the valley to the crossing of Beaver
creek, which is five miles distant. The road first follows up a dry
creek, crossing and recrossing it several times, and then leads over a
wave-formed plain, which now and then is cut up by long, dry ho]lows. After crossing Beaver creek- the trail commences the ascent of
th~e divide of the Dearborn and Sun river waters; and, it I understand
aright, the present wagon road keeps to the left, making a detour of
four and five-tenths miles, avoiding thereby the steepest portion of
this rocky divide. Just as we commenced the ascent an icy northwest gale sprang up, driving before it a storm of small crystals, which
made it almost impossible to keep the eyes open. The wind continually increasing in force, we became doubtful whether our animals
would be able to carry us to Sun river, and were obliged, after having
made two and a half miles more, and nearly gained the summit of the




122                MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
divide, to turn back and seek refuge in a small ravine, where we found
just wood enough to build a fire and stow away our baggage. Made
seven and five-tenths of a mile. The storm continues with fearful
severity; it is extremely cold, and the snow falls heavily. We have
an idea that we may be caught here by a long lasting snow storm,
which is anything but pleasant, as wood is scarce, provisions nearly
exhausted, and our animals are in a distressed state.
December 4.-The weather has not moderated in the least, and I
judge the thermometer must be at about 40 below zero. It still
snows, but not so heavily as yesterday. We are undecided whether
to push on to Sun river or go back to the Dearborn. To retrace our
steps seemed the most sensible in our present condition, as we would
have the wind in our backs, and in a short ride could reach shelter
and food in a large Pend d'Oreille camp, which we left at the Dearborn river; but then the snow might fall to such a depth that we
would be cut off from  Fort Benton.  At 10 a. m. we decided to try
to reach Sun River farm, and at 11 a. m. started for that point. It is
terrible weather, and we can distinguish nothing at a distance of one
hundred yards.  After a ride of three and a half hours we reached
Sun River farm, which was twenty-three and one-tenth miles distant
from our last night's camp. We were all more or less frost-bitten,
and have suffered extremely. Colonel Vaughan, Indian agent to the
Blackfoot nation, received us very kindly, and with his well-known
hospitality offered us the accommodations of the agency for any length
of time that we might wish. The weather continuing very cold, and
our animals requiring some rest after our last march, we remained at
the farm during the 5th and 6th, and left on the 7th of December.
The cold being too severe to take notes on our march, I did so (for
this portion of the road) on my return; but will give the description
of it here, in order to keep the same travelling direction in mentioning the different objects -of the road.
From the crossing of Beaver creek to the top of the divide, which
forms a narrow rocky gap, the distance is three-quarters of a mile. It
is not one gradual slope, but the ascent is formed by a succession of
hills of different grades and heights', which will occasion some work in a
few places if the road should be located in that direction. Hitherto
it has been thought a matter of imposibility to follow with vehicles
of any description the Indian trail, but in coming back from Fort
Benton I brought over it a two-wheel cart, and found but little difficulty. The descent on the other side is gradual, and is practicable
for wagons in its present state. Bird-tail Rock creek, a little stream
which heads near the divide, is followed down by the trail for one and
a quarter mile, and then at a point where it turns short to the west
the trail takes for two and half miles over prairie hills, until it strikes
the creek again, and also the present wagon road, which gains the
creek about one and a half mile below the above-mentioned turning
point, and follows its valley downwards, crossing and recrossing the
creek, which is made necessary by the closing in of the small side
hills, the trail comes in three miles opposite to Bird-tail creek, a
prominent peak of the mountain chain running- between the trail and
the Missouri river. Following for three milles more the valley of the




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                123
creek, I reached a low rocky bluff, through which the creek had forced
its way. Here a little side-hill work will be necessary, and also on
some places above. Inthree and a quarter miles over an almost level
plain the road crosses Crown-butte creek, about two miles below the
mouth of Bird-tail Rock creek, and gains in one and three-quarter
mile a small rocky ridge, which is easy in its ascent; the descent is
sidelin, and encumbered by big boulders, which will have to be
removed. The Big Knee, Crown, and Square buttes, which have been
in view for some miles back, are now fully exposed to view. A kind
of saddle ridge, which connects the Big Knee and Crown butte, with
a gentle slope, will have to be ascended. The road leaving those two
prominent points almost at an equal distance to its right and left,
takes then to the descent, which is very gradual. The direction which
I followed brought me opposite to the agency; but I think the wagon
road must keep closer to the Big Knee, and strike Sun river about
three miles below the far, to gain a point where the crossing towards
Teton river can be accomplished without distressing the teams. Sun
river, which I crossed at a point where it forms an island, was frozen
over. A luxuriant growth of cotton-wood lines both sides of the
stream at this place, and extends far upwards. Distance between the
last-mentioned little ridge and Sun River farm is eighteen miles. By
information, I learned at Sun river that the distance to Fort Benton
by shortest route was estimated at forty-five miles. At nineteen miles
from the farm the road strikes a shallow pond, and seven miles further
is a small spring. Both of those places, though, are destitute of
timber. In summer the pond often dries entirely up, and, at all
events, the water becomes unfit for drinking and cooking purposes;
besides that, in both places it is strongly mixed with alkali. In the
strength of those statements, I resolved to try and find a wagon road
leading to camping places where wood and good water could be found,
and concluded to strike the Missouri river somewhere below the Great
Falls. The interpreter of Mr. Dawson beping at the time at the farm,
I accepted his offer to guide us to the fort.
December 7.-Started at 10.15 a. m.; mild weather. Followed
down the Sumi River valley for about 12 miles, and then struck across
an insignificant prairie ridge towards the Missouri river. Before I
left the valley, which we did at a point about three miles above the
mouth of Suin river, I crossed a deep ravine, with running water, ten
miles from the farm. After 18 miles we arrived at the edge of the
prairie plateau, and had to accomplish the descent towards the Missouri river by following the winding of a co ulee ridge, gaining the
coulee bottom itself, which quickly enlarges to a narrow valley, with
a few cotton-wood trees. We reached in one mile the river itself.
We intended to follow down the Missouri for one and one-fourth miles
further and camp on a small prairie opposite the mouth of Heighwood.
creek, but the river ice was blocked up over the trail, and we were
forced to remain where we were, having made 31 miles.
Trhe Missouri river is so poorly timbered between the mouth of Sun
river and Fort Benton that if even a road could be found in that direc-.
tion the greatest inconvenience for want of wood would ensue, even
for small parties. During the nigrht a furious gale forced us to secure




124                MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
our blankets and baggage with logs and rocks, and even then those
precautions proved to be insufficient.
December 8.-Started at 9 a. m. Our guide advises us to head the
coulees, and we therefore started back to gain a ridge about five
miles to the northwest. The day is clear and warm. After a ride of
28 miles, during which we only crossed the Grane, and then the eight
mile coulee, we arrived, after descending near Discovery butte into
the Missouri River valley, at Fort Benton, and were most kindly
received. There was scarcely any snow here, but the river is frozen
solid, which is a fortunate circumstance, as we can drive our animals
across. who would starve on this side.
The necessity to give rest to my animals, and some delay in my
preparations for the return trip, induced me to remain seven days at
Fort Benton, during which time I received from M. Clark, esq., of
Fort Campbell, a small howitzer belonging to the government, which
I intended to bring over the mountain, and to measure the road by
its wheel.
December 15. —Mr. Dawson having fitted out a party to accompany
me to the Bitter Root valley, I started at 12 a. m. towards the Teton
river, via Sun River agency. Colonel Vaughan, who arrived at Fort
Benton on the 13th, directed his returning wagon to keep also with us.
The odometer was fastened to the cannon wheel, which measured
nine feet ten inches in circumference.  After ascendin  the Missouri
river bluff, which has an easy grade, we followed a well-beaten wagon
trail towards Teton river, over almost level ground, and struck said
river in four miles. Before descending into the valley the road forks,
one keeping along, its righit bank on the bluff, the other descending
into the valley and following it up. Our guide for this portion of the
road having, been kept back at Fort Benton, we took to the valley,
which afterwards turned out to be the longest and most troublesome
road of' the two, on account of the furrow-like frozeii surface of the
river. In three and one-tenth miles we made five river crossings,
which delayed us considerably, as we had to throw earth on the ice
to give our animals a foothold. No other difficulty for wag0ons was
experienced. Made to- day seven and seven-tenths miles, and camped
on Teton river. About two inches of snow on the ground, but the
grass has been mostly burnt off, and partly eaten off by Indian horses.
December 16.-Started at 11 a. m. Our animals had gone towards
the Missouri river bottom, and it took us a longr time to find them.
We made six crossings to-day, accomplishi.ng it bygreat labor. After
following the valley for six miles we took to the north bluff, which
offered an easy ascent. The top of the bluff forms a large plain, and
the river, which makes a wide bend towards the south, disappears out
of view. In the distance the Teton buttes can be seen, the trail
taking a straight shoot, towards the westerly end of' the river bend,
heads all the coule'es, offering thereby an almost level road. In five
and one-half miles we struck the river again and descended its valley,
and camped in one and one-half mile further on the bank of the
Teton.
Baptiste Champaigne, our guide, who joined us this morning, in



BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                125
formed me that one-fourth of a mile below, and opposite the spot where
we struck the river valley again, the straight road from Fort Benton
descended also to the valley, and that the distance to that place was
estimated by Governor Stevens to be ten miles. Where that road
strikes the valley the river will have to be crossed for the first time,
gainigthus nine and two-tenth miles in distance.  Wood is plentiful the valley large, and covered with good grass. A rain storm
passed over us towards evening, changing by nightfall into snow.
The snow kept up all night, we having made to-day 13 miles.
December 17.-It is still snowing. We started at 11 a. m. To-day
I attached the cannon to one of the wagons. The road follows up the
valley for three miles, where no other obstacle is offered' but a little
creek running in a hollow, which can be made practicable in a few
minutes' work A second ditch at the place where the road leads
towards the bluff the same amount of work will be needed. The ascent itself, formed by a gentle slope, requires a little side-hill cutting
for a distance o twenty feet, to make the road practicable for heavy
wagons. The road on top of the bluff requires no work at all, being
almost as level as a table. In eight and a half miles I gained the
descent to the river, which will require a little side-hill cutting for a
distance o twenty-five feet. A half mile further I camped, having made twelve miles. The day has been very cold; the snow kept
faling heavily, and the wind blowing strong from the north. Snow
four inches deep.
December 18.-Started at 10 a. m. Clear and cold morning. At
the start our wagons were obliged to make the river crossings to avoid
a side hill of thirty feet in length, requiring but little work to make
it passable for wagons. In three-quarters of a mile from camp I came
to the last Teton crossing, which was frozen over like the rest. The
river is about twenty yards wide, and appears to have a gravelly bottom. The banks at the crossing will require but little work. The
trail, keeping now altogether on the north side of the Teton river,
reaches in seven miles the ascent to the low prairie plateau, and here
the wagon road could with advantage strike in a southwesterly course
towards Sun river. If that course should be adopted, Mud creek, a
tributary to the Teton river, with ample wood and water, would afford
good camping places. This creek, which in its easterly branch reaches
high up towards the divide of the Sun and Teton river waters, would
enable trains to shorten the long journey between those two rivers
considerably, indicating at the same time the direction which will
have to be followed to strike the place where the two rivers come
closest to each other. Here two large prairie buttes on the top of the
divide would serve as good landmarks, and, leaving the most easterly
one of the two to the west, the right course could not now be missed.
Sun river, at this place, about twenty-eight miles from the Teton,
would be reached at a spot where a creek empties into it about four
and a half miles below the Indian agency. It it is said that no coulees intercept the direct course of' the above-described road, and that
the ground is favorable in every respect. Sun river could be crossed
at the point where it is struck, and followed up to the farm and crossed.
Trains reaching here would be obliged to take in wood, because the




126               MILITARY ROAD FROM  FORT
rest of the timber to be found would only be on Dearborn river,
which is thirty and two-tenths miles distant from the farm. The
whole distance from Sun river to Fort Benton would by the above
mentioned route amount to fifty-seven and three-quarters miles, being
thirteen miles further than by the prairie lake; but good water, plenty
of wood, and convenient camping places would besecured to the road.
Unfortunately for us, our guide took us to the westerly branch of
Muddy creek, which we struck in two and a half miles from the ascent
to the prairie plateau. Made ten and a quarter miles, found sufficient
wood and water and good grazing.
December 19.-Started at 10 a. mn., and took our course southward,
to pass between the two high buttes which crown the dividing prairie
ridge. A gradual ascent brought us in three hours to that place, and,
finding that the distance to Sun river was considerable, we pushed on
with the pack train, Mr. Irvine remaining with the wagons. After
crossing three deep coulees, we arrived, 5 p.., at Sun River farm
having marched at a brisk gait for the last sixteen miles. A cold
and strong wind set in early in the afternoon. Made thirty-two and
nine-tenths miles. Mr. Irvine having left the wagons, on account of
darkness, at the first coulee, arrived with the animals at 8 p. m.
December 20.-Animals started out for the wagons in a heavy snow
storm, but returned after an unsuccessful march.
December 21.-Sent a man over to the Teton mission to obtain a
cart, as the peculiar construction of the cain does not allow of its
being carried any further without the risk of injury to our mules. A
renewed attempt is made to bring the wagons in; they were found,
but plundered by some Indians.
December 22.-The cart camue in, and we caught up all the animals
to make an early start. Mr. Dawson and my party number eight men,
with thirty-nine animals altogether.
December 23.-Some animals that had run off during the night delayed our start until 11 a. in., the day being clear and warm. Sun
river is still frozen over. At noon a west wind sprang up, augmenting hourly in strength. Made thirteen and two-tenth~s miles to-day,
and camped on Bird-tail Rock creek. Snow twenty inches deep.
December 24 —Started at 10 a. m; clear and warm, but a strong
southeast wind blowing almost a gale; snow is getting deeper and
deeper the nearer we come to the little divide, on the northeasterly
side of which we found it -five or six inches on a level, with drifts of.many feet in depth; on the south side eight or nine inches of snow,
and still increasing towards Dearborn river, at which stream we encamped, having made 18 miles
December 25.-Started at 9 a. in; cloudy and warm. The snow is
increasing in depth at every mile we make, and at Little Prickly.Pear we find it from 12 to 15 inches on a level. The drifts are almost
impassable for a vehicle, and our animals are getting very tired.  I
am obliged to cache the cart at the south side of the lowest Prickly
Pear crossing, where I camped; made 141i miles.
December 26. -Started at 10 a. in; our animals had poor feed last.night; cloudy and warm morning; clear towards noon. The crossings in the cation are partly frozen, makin g them difficult; snow from,




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                127
16 to 20 inches deep. No trail is broken and our animals have hard
work. On the top of Medicine river divide we found 26 inches of
snow, and camped on Little Piickly Pear creek, one and a half miles
higer up than I did on my eastward trip; made 15-A miles.
December 2.-Started at 10 a. m; clear and cold morning.  The
snow is badly drifted and has, on a level, a depth of 26 inches; we
are travelling very slow. Found a very comfortable camp on Soft Bed
creek; made 11 miles.
December 28.-Started at 10 a. m; cloudy and cold day; we have
been threatened all day long with a snow storm, but it cleared off
towards evening, turning, though, very cold. The depth of the snow
to-day is fast decreasing. At our camping place, on Big Prickly Pear
creek, we found oly three inches; made 1315 miles.
December 29.-Reained in camp, which is about 2i miles from
the top of the divide; a heavy wind storm with driving snow prevailed until noon; when the snow stopped falling one of the men
went out to examine the condition of the road and reports little snow
on both sides of the divide, but a deep snow-bed on its top, with a
heavy crust, strong enough to bear a man.
December 30.-Started at 10.15 a. m; wind storm with snow; the
snow towards the divide is 15 inches deep; on the divide a drift of 80
yards in length, and five or six eet deep; the crust will bear a man,
but our horses sunk through, and have hard work. On the west side
of the divide I found only six inches of snow, with occasional drifts
of the same depth down the cafion of the north fork of the Blackfoot
river; near the junction ofthe north and south fork we struck a wellbeaten trail, leading towards the low Hell-Gate pass, which is a very
fortunate circumstance and relieves our animals considerably; we
camped on the highest Blackfoot crossing, known as Belknap's camp 
made 15k1- miles. The Blackfoot is frozen across at this place, but
higher up the ice broken by the falling of the water.
December 31.-Started at 10.30 a. in; clear and cold day. The
snow is from, six to eight inches deep; the beaten trail helps us along
beautifully. Found both the lower Blackfoot crossings frozen over at
camp; the snow is from four to five inches deep; made 14 —D- miles,
and camped one mile above John Grant's cabin.
January II, 1860.-Remained in camp to give a rest to the animals;
warm and cloudy day.
January 2.-Started at 9.15 a. m; cloudy and warm. Found the
Hell-Gate river crossing frozen over; three miles lower down I recrossed the river, and kept on its right bank for 10 miles, and joined
the party only at Adam.'s corral; camped on Flint creek, having
made 20{ miles. Flint creek had partly overflowed its valley, covering, it with a sheet of' ice; snow from four to five inches deep.
January 3.-Started at 10 a. m.; cloudy and very warm day; the
trail in some places entirely covered over with snow, and at other
points it is drifted to a considerable depth; made the 12th crossing
on the ice, and avoiding the 10th and 1 1th by passing the rtcky point
at the water's edge; found the 9th crossing only partly frozen over, and
too deep -to ford; and it bigtoo late to take to the_. high water trail,
camped at the river bank in 13 inches of snow; we made 19 miles.




12~8        MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
Towards evening a wet snow commenced to fall; we feared that it
miht turn to rain. Heavy snow drifts forced us to make a detour.
January 4, 9.15 a. m.-Clear and cold; the water has fallen
during the night, and we made the ninth crossing after having
removed the ice; eighth crossing frozen over, but the ice covered by
fifteen inches of water; all the rest of the crossings, with the exception
of the two lower ones, we found frozen over, but found in following
the beaten trail that most of the regular crossing points  ad been
avoided, and even the road for some tinme located over the high water
trail  At 11{ a. in. it began to snow heavily and continued so until
evening.
The Big Blackfoot river was crossed on the ice, but higher up and
near the foot of the plateau, and encamped on White Thorn creek,
having ade 23%-~ miles.  It ceased snowing at 8 p. mn., but recomenced at 10 p. in., and fell to the depth of 6 inches.
January 5 -Started at 10.15 a. m; it had been snowing all night,
and we started in a snow storm. I received last night by the Pend
d'Oreille chiet; Alexander, the first information that you and your
party were obliged to build winter quarters on the St. Regis Borgia
river. The trail is much blinded, and it still continues to snow
eavil.. crossed Hell Gate river for the last time, at the right of
the n and above Rattlesnake creek, on the ice.  It cleared off for
a while at 12j p. in., but soon recommenced to snow. We found the
lowest Bitter Root crossing open for six feet on the easterly side
made 10 miles, and encamped on the Lo-Lo's fork.
January 6.-Started at 9 a. in.; it had been snowing all night, and
it blows now strongly from the south with a heavy snow storm. The
trail is entirely filled up by wind and new snow. The upper Bitter
Root crossing we found open; we reached Fort Owen at 1U p. in.,
having made 16 miles. My animals were all in poor condition, and
the depth of snow in the valley promised but a scanty chance for food
for them, but I trust that after a week's rest I shall be able to start
with some of them -for your camp. With regard to my trip I am
sorry to say that I have not been able to carry out fully your
instructions.
The intense cold prevented me from running a compass line, and
the depth of the snow obliged me to abandon the wagons in order to
save my animals. Your later orders, to examine the road via "ILewis
and Clark's Pass" and the Big Blackfoot river, I only received on my
return to this place. By intorination from several persons, I have
learned that as yet the unexplored roads lead towards the headwaters
of the Big Blackfoot river, and both could be made practicable for
wagons with but little work. The first one leaves the Hell-Gate river
one and a half miles above the mouth of' the Big Blackfoot river,
strikes over towards the camas prairie, and keeping along its edge
gains the Big Black foot valley at a point below Lander's Fork. This
road, which is certainly the shortest, must avoid all the Hell-Gate
crossings, and, as it is stated, offers only one difficulty, consisti'ng'in
the first ascent after leaving Hlell-Gate river. The second road leaves
the Hell-Gate valley at Flint creek; the ascent of the,bordering
ridge would require some work, but it is by far not as steep as the one




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                129
by the lower road; and then, as my informant assures me, that only
a little side-hill work in a few places and an occasional cutting of a
few trees would render the road practicable for a wagon road.
I am, sir, very respectfully, your obedient servant,
P. M. ENGLE,
Topographical Engineers.
J.
CANTONMENT JORDAN,
Bitter Boot  ountains, W. T., February 15, 1860.
Si: I ave the honor to submit the following report of my journey,
undertaken pursuant to your verbal instructions of Maylast, to examine
a route for a military wagon road across the Bitter Root mountains, from
the Smakole prairie, on an east line, to the Hell-Gate defile. Furnished
with such information of the route as given by certain Coeur d'Aleine
Indians, and as described by the missionary, the Rev. Father Joset,
and with the hope and view of obtaining their assistance, I started
from the Dalles without delay.
On the 3d of June I left the Des Chutes Landing, on the steamer
Colonel Wright, and landed at old Fort Walla-Walla on the 5th,
and reached the new fort on the 6th, where I found Mr. Kollecki in
charge of the astronomical observatory, and who informed'me that
he had already despatched an Indian expressman to the Coeur d'Ale"ne
mission for the necessary guides for my trip.
While at Walla-Walla I endeavored to secure the services of some
Nez Perc&' Indians to accompany me to the Hell-Gate, but when I
mentioned to them the particular route that I desired to examine, they
represented to me that the whole region was an immense bed of rugged
mountains, and over which they never heard of any person having
travelled, and therefore they declined to join my party.
While at Walla-Walla the Rev. Father Joset arrived, together with.Agustine, a Cceur d'Ale'ne Indian, who had been sent for as one of
my guides.
This man declared that the contemplated trip could not be undertaken yet, because the streams were too high and, the s9nows in the
mountains too deep, and that it would be impossible to pass over the
more difficult regions before some time in August. I insisted upon
starting immediately for the examination, when Father Joset informed
me that the other two guides who were necessary for the full examination of the route had not yet been obtained, and that it was, indeed,
doubtful whether they could be obtained. It evidently seems that the
route in question, from the accounts of all, had not been a travelled
H. Ex. Doc. 44 —9




130               MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
one, and that no one knew the route continuously from the waters of
the Snake river to those of the Bitter Root.
It would seem, however, that these three were three Indians who
knew the three sections of the route. These were Ko-ne-moo-say,
Koahlis, and Agustine. The latter knew the more difficult mountain
sections and the higher ridges. He told me that he had discovered
this section while hunting, and that he came in view of the Bitter
Root valley about twenty-five miles below the Hell-Gate defile, but that
he did not descend into the valley.
Father Joset told me that the other two guides were absent for
reasons that I might account for.
Agustine was apparently uneasy and displeased, first, because he
disliked to show the country of his people, faring that they would
lose it; nor was he at all anxious to undergo the ftigues and difficulties of the trip; but when he found that the absence of the other two
guides was sufficient to deter me from travelling, he mustered his best
will for the undertaking.
He desired to go and take leave of his family, promising to meet
me at the camas plains of the Cceur d'Ales, on the 20th of June,
when he would join me and guide me from there to some of the higher
peaks of the Bitter Root mountains, in the country of his tribe, from
which, though probably covered with snow, I could have an extensive
view over the mountains and the countr generally, and sa     then
you can see all and satisfy yourself."
As there was a probability of finding the other two guides at this
same camas prairie, I decided to         go, with the understand- 
ing that he would meet me on the 20th of June.
While the reconnaissance from the Smakole prairie was thus retarded,on account of my Indian guides, I determined to explore the line from
the point where the military road crosses Snake river to the Smakolde.prairie. The map of this exploration has been compiled in the office
this winter. In order that you may know the character of the country
in detail, I make the following extracts from my itinerary, which were
made in the field at the time:
June 14.-I ferried Snake river, and encamped at the mouth of
the Pelouse; grass and wood scarce. My party consisted of Toohill,
Frank Hall, a half-beeand Slougharehy, the Pelouse chief.
June 15 was cloudy and windy. We crossed the Pelouse three
miles above its mouth, and ascended a high and steep bluff to the
-table land; and from the point where your wagon road joins this trail
we travelled, magnetic, north 24' east, and encamped on the Pelouse
river, at the point where Colonel Wright encamped when holding a
council with the Pelouse, in September, 1858. Our march was eighteen
mifles; grass and wood in abundance.
June 16.-At 8 o'clock a. m. the weather was clear, with a temperature of 66' Fahr. We travelled up the Pelouse, on the left bank,
for seven miles, when we struck the Smokel creek, and followed it.
It flows through a valley of easy grade, and bounded on either side
by high, rolling prairie, and in a generally east and west direction.
-The valley at its mouth is somewhat narrow, but in a quarter of a
mile it widens, and in five miles it runs out into the general level of




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                131
the country. In eight miles from the river it is closed in again by
slopes one hundred and six hundred feet high. The soil in the first
ten miles is somewhat gravelly. Further up it is somewhat richer,
and in fifteen miles it bears the camas and other roots upon which
the Indians subsist. In the first ten miles there is little or no wood,
but higher up the cotton-wood, aspen, birch, and brushwood fringe
the banks, more or less.
At the mouth of the creek the water is some eight feet wide and
six inches deep, and supplied mostly by a small tributary coming in
from the south. But the creek is dry in many places, and hence, at
times, water might be scarce, though there are many springs that
might be improved. Grass is good along the whole route and, indeed, the road is good, requiring but little grading along the valley
of the Pelouse for wagons to pass. This day we travelled twenty
miles up the creek, twenty-seven miles from last camp, and encamped
on the creek.
June 17 -Thermometer 52~ at 5 a. m. Continued to follow up the
valley of the Smokel creek. The valley is dotted with pines, and in
many places it is cut up by narrow sloughs, now dry, but they would
interpose no serious obstruction in the construction of a wagon rcad.
In twenty miles our road joined a heavy trail coming in from the
southwest, where it leaves the valley of the Smokel creek, and leading
over a rolling prairie region in eight miles it reaches a good spring
of water, which is about two hundred feet to the north of the trail, on
a side hill. In three miles more it reaches the bottom of the Smokel,
which we ascended for two miles, and encamped at a spring near a
bunch of thorn-berry bushes, distance from last camp 34o-; miles.
The creek winds through a flat which is a quarter to one mile wide,
and which in early summer, being under water, produces the camas.
June 18.-We followed up the Smokel prairie for seven miles, and
encamped on the creek of the same name, and at the point where it
joins to the northwest foot of the Tathunah hills. These hills are
from twelve hundred to fourteen hundred feet high, and some three
miles long. The top of the southern portion is sparsely timbered
with pine; there is a ravine near at hand which is also timbered, and
where a spring of water offers a good camping ground. The country
to the south and west of the Tathunah is a rolling prairie, extending
as far as the eye can reach. On the north and two miles distant is
a mountain ridge covered with pine. The intermediate region is low
and diversified by small spurs and prairie bottoms, which last connect with the Smokel prairie, and it is through this gate that the
road would pass on approaching the Bitter Root mountains from the
west.
Towards the east the country for twelve miles is an undulating
prairie, with scattering pines, when the westward foot slopes of the
Bitter Root mountains are reached. These rise to the east and northeast in lofty peaks and spurs, and covered with dense pine forests,
while in the southeast they rise in masses of broken fiats and free
from timber. I ascended the northern peak of the Tathunah to obtain
a view of the distant ridges, but found them obscured by the haze of
the atmosphere.




132               MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
June 19.-I despatched Slougharehy, the Pelouse chief, on an express to your camp, forwarding by him a map of the line travelled
and examined up to date, whence I proceeded to the camas prairie
in search of the Coeur d'Alene guides. Leaving the Tatunah hills,
we passed over a rolling prairie country in the general direction of
north 30~ west, magnetic, for five miles, when we crossed a ridge five
hundred feet high, and steep; in eight miles from Tatunah we crossed
a small creek called Ki-ah-ne-mah; four miles more we ascended a
ridge nine hundred feet high, and in 1 mile descended to the valley
of the Pelouse river proper- here called the Mocalishia. The valley
is here three-tenths of a mile wide, and timbered with the pine. The
river is thirty feet wide, two feet deep, with sandy bottom; its general
course is west; at the distance of seven miles further we encamped on
a creek where the water stood in pools, here the grass was good and
wood abundant.
The weather was exceedingly warm during the day, severe upon
our animals, that were not in the best condition; our march this day
was nineteen miles.
June 20.-We started at sunrise, it was clear and pleasant, thermometer being, at 50~. The road continued over rolling prairie,
when in 42 miles it crossed the Tugossomen creek; in two miles further
another small creek; thence ascending, in 1 mile a ridge of six  undred feet descends, and in four miles reaches the Medenhauld or camas prairie of the Coeur d'Alenes; distance from last camp ten miles.
The prairie is about one mile wide, and bordered by mountain spurs
covered with pine forests. On a fat elevation, on the left bank of the
Medenhauld creek, was the camp of the Cociur d'Ale'ne Indians. It
was at this time they were digging roots; bands of horses were grazing
in the bottom and along the creeks.
This, then, was the appointed place and time for meeting the guides
who were to conaduct me in my exploration across the Bitter Root
mountains. The guide Agustine was here, who, with other Coeur
d'Ale'ne Indians, came out to meet me, and. who pointed me to a
spring nigh at hand; I encamped.
During the day the chiefs and principal men, who had been my old
friends,visited me in camp and exchanged news. I soon learned that
the services of my guides had not been obtained. One, Kah-lis, was
absent., and Koo-na-moo-ney, who was present, was in a doubtful,mood, and told me, as an excuse, that twe could not gonow, as all the
guides were not present. They were evidently excited regarding the
construction of the military wagon road, and inquired anxiously as to
its probable location. Koo-ne-moo-ney said he thought we should
take the Smakold prairie routes, but when asked to go as guide he
refused. I saw then, from the mood of the Indians, that their services
could not willingly be secured, and their disposition was to retard my
movements, obstruct my passage through their country, and to have
me consume a large portion of the summer in fruitless efforts at an
examination. Without guides, without information, and in a region
known only by its difficulties, and with Indians in their present mood,
it seemed a useless effort for me to attempt to make a direct exploration
of this special route that you sent me to explore and report upon. I




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                133
dislikd, however, after all my labor and expense of time and means,
to leave the mountains without gaining some approximately correct
information that would form the basis of your operation, or subserve
the purposes of future explorers. I determined therefore, as Agustine
was the more willing of the three to accompany me into the mountains,
that I would avail myself of the opportunity, and to attempt to ascend
some of the higher ridges of the Bitter Root range, and thus obtain a
glimpse or view of the country, and then arrive at some definite conclusion regarding its topographical character and formation. Therefore, on the 21st of June, I left the camas plain with feelings of some
anxiety, though determined to do the best with the means and aid at
my disposal.
Before leaving camp, however, the old Ceeur d'Alene chief, Skahhah-le-me, called to see me, and said that his people had held a council
the niht previous, and, passing around the pipe, had remained up
late arguing the question whether Agustine should be permitted to
accompany me or not to the upper country. The majority prevailed
in my favor, though Koo-ne-moo-ney was against it. Agustine was
present and heard the conversation, and appeared indignant at the
idea that the Indians should interfere with him. Hle started willingly,
though lamenting the difficulties that we should meet with in ascending the ridges, where we would have to clime for days over steep side
hills, where   e ground was obstructed by dense forests and fallen
timber, and even now covered with snow.
Starting out we travelled up the open prairie valley for three and
a half miles thence through open timber for three miles, where we
crossed a low spur and descended to a creek, which we crossed and encamped on its right bank. There was good grass in the open timber.
June 22.-Started at sunrise, weather clear, thermometer 420,
(Fahr.;) our route lay through open timber, and in five and a half
miles along a side hill, and following up the right bank of a small
creek, a tributary to the Nedenhauld, and in one mile more we crossed
it at the junction of two branches; thence over a ridge covered with
dense forests, fallen timber, and brushwood, and in two and a half
miles from our camp we reached a camoas prairie, 2 miles long, and
one-hal{ of a mile wide, closed in by mountain spurs, densely timbered.
We followed a small creek which joins in this prairie a second
creek, that rises from. the south, and which together form a stream 20
feet wide. We passed along the main creek, through a uarrow valley on a good road for four miles, when we crossed it, then the trail
leads over a low ridge one mile, and to the north of a ravine that leads
into the valley of the south fork of the St. Joseph's river; we crossed
the St. Joseph's and encamped on its right bank; distance travelled,
25 miles.
The river here is eighty feet wide and two feet deep, with a gravelly
bottom and swift current. The valley is three-tenths of a mile wide.and densely timbered; our animals had sufficient grazing along the
edge of the river and at places where the timber was less dense.
June 23 -We moved up the south fork of the St. Joseph's, eastward, crossing three creeks and making six crossings of the main
river, and encamped on a camas prairie five-tenths by two-tenths




134               MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
of a mile in area. This prairie is alon the river and at the foot of
the high ridge for which we were travelling.
June 24.-We rested in camp, for our animals were now weary and
fatigued, and we thought it best to halt and prepare for our task in
ascending the ridge. All had gone well up to this point, but here
our evil genius seems to have attended us in the person of Damass,
the brother of my guide Agustine, who   we met hunting in the
mountains. After a series of endeavors and intrigues on the part of
Damass, he succeeded in changing the mood of his brother, Agustine,
who then determined not to accompany me further. He came to me
and said as follows:
"Let us have a better understanding. I told you at Walla-Walla
that there was no road through this section to the Flathead country;
the mountains are too difficult. Those high ridges yonder, (pointing
to some high spurs of the Bitter Root rage,) are small compared to
those over which we shall be compelled to pass, and there are many
of them. The road passes over high and steep mountains and down
in steep ravines and carions. If all the Americans would work here
a thousand years they could never make a road. I think the Pend
d'Oreille route is the best fbr you. There you do not pass over difficult mountains. It was Koo-ne-moo-say who told you that a wagon
road could be had here, and he says this because he owns land along
the Pend d'Oreille route, and he fears that if the soldiers make a road
along that route he will lose his land. I am sorry to see Father
Josef and yourself determined to take this route. Those who have
told you that a road could be ad here have deceived you and
made you lose time in exploring. I say, again, that it all the Americans would spend a thousand years here, they could not make a road."
This conversation with my guide showed me that he was determined
to go no further) and that all endeavor would be now useless. My
animals were jaded, provisions scanty, and even in this extremity I
should have tried to continue the exploration further, had I not perceived that these men were planning mischief against me, and laying
for me a trap; for they now desired to detain me until other Indians
should join them, for they daily expected others from the main body.
You have, then, my reasons for returning, and though I did it reluctantly, it was my safest alternative to preserve my small party from
the hands ofrmen whom I now could trust no longer.
I returned to the Smakold prairie, where I found encamped the
Nez Perces and some other tribes, who were here digging camas.
They met me in a friendly manner, but could give rue -no information
relative to the proposed road; but they all regarded it as a matter of
impossibility to discover a wagon road south of the one that you had
originally proposed following, viz: the Coceur d'Ale'ne Mission and
St. Regis Borgia river.
Among the Indians whom I here met was "1Three Feathers,
whom I had often met in the mountains before. We gathered in his
lodge to exchange news, &c. It was herelImet the old chiefYah-mohmoh. The old man, not knowing myexact object int tisregion, began
speaking very freely regarding the mountains. He said: "when
youn~g, he hunted in this region and found plenty of game. Water and




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALL. A.            135
grass were abundant and travelling good." I then asked for a guide,
to show me the section he spoke of, and for the hire of a few horses.
Three Feathers refused.     Wait, you will get plenty of horses."  I
left the lode and invited them to come and see me in the evening.
They did so, and dined with me, when, bringing up the subject of the
road, I was only surprised to find that their opinions now were just
the opposite to what they ad expressed in the morning. The old
an made an energetic speech, and declared his friendship for the
whites, &c., but described the mountains as formidable, the forests
and underbrush impenetrable, and the streams dangerous, if not impassable, and implored me not to think of exploring the route; that
if I did I would perish, and men would say that the Indians had
killed me. He thought the route by the Coear d'Alene Mission the
best. The consequence of all this was, that I could obtain neither
horses or guides. Never have I seen Indians more impertinent, or
unwilling to do service of any character. I could not even secure the
services of one of them to bear you an express. I desired Agustine to
return with me, but his brother Damass told him that you would hang
him. Thus you will readily see the circumstances amid which I found
myself, and the peculiar trying difficulties of my position. I then
determined to despatch Frank Hall with an express to you, mounted
on my best horse, and abide your further instructions;  and as you are
well aware, with all the difficulties around us, I was still willing to
undertake the exploration of the line embraced from the Tathunah to
the Hell-Gate defile, which you thought might be practicable. I satisfled myself of one thing: the extreme aversion that the Indians have
against any wagon road passing through their country; and I have
no doubt but that it affords a constant theme for conversation and
discussion among them.
I remained in camp at the Tathunah hills until the 3d of July,
awaiting the retnrn of Frank Hall, when I started. for your main
camp, where I arrived and reported to you on July Ith.
I am, sir, respectfully, your obedient servant,
G. SOHOX,
Guide and Interpreter, Military Road Expedition&.
Lieut. JOHN MULLAN, U. S. A.,
Commanding Ali. Road Exp'n from Walla- Walla to Ft. Bent on.
Respectfully referred to Capt. A. A. Humphreys, U. S. Engineers.
JOHN MULLAN,
1st Lieut. 2d.Artillery, commanding Al. Road.
CANTONMENT JORDAN,?
Bitter Boot Mfountains, W. T., February 19, 1860.




136                MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
K.
CANTONMENT JORDAN, W. T.,
February 20, 1860.
SIR: In obedience to your instructions I have the honor to submit
the following report of my trip as expressman from Fort   allaWalla
to Cantonment Jordan.
February 5.-Left Fcrt Walla-Walla at 5 a. m. and made the
Touchet river at 4 p. m., when we camped for the night.
February 6.-Started at 7 a. mi., made Snake river at 4 p..
crossed; four men and five horses pushed on. Camped on the Pelouse,
two miles from its mouth. Here I found a roan horse which gave
out with me on my October trip. The Indians not giving proper
account of said horse I will take him to the Mission.
February 7.-Started at 5 a. m.; made good time, and camped on
a camas prairie, (at the mouth of a ravine.) No snow, except on
the north side of the hills.
February 8.-Started at 7 a. m.; made the Pelouse river at 4 p..;
crossed and camped.  (Horses nearly swimming.)
February 9.-Started at 8 a. m.; good travelling, and reached
Camas creek and camped. Here we foundi"Idianhorses,"which
the Indians will drive in advance in the morning, with a view to
break the trail through the snow, as far as St. Joseph's river.
February 10.-Started at 7 a. m.; slow travelling, snow two feet
five inches; camped at Long Prairie 9 miles east of St, Joseph's
river.
February 11.-Started at 5 a. in.; reached the St. Joseph's at 21
p. in.; camped; made arrangements to leave four of our horses and
hire four horses in place of them; hired four horses, at $3 each, to
take us to the Caeur d'Ale'nc Mission.
February 12.-Started at 8 a. in.; crossed the St. Joseph's river
on the ice at mile post 166, one mile above the bridge; struck across
the lake over to the Coeur d'Alehne river, which we struck one mile
below the point where the military wagon road Eist strikes it; crossed
on the ice and travelled upon the north side. Camped at the ferry on
the Coeur d'Ale'ne.
February 13.-Started. at 8-g a. n.; reached the Coeur d'Al'ne Mission at 21 p. m.; made preparations to start next morning. Rev.
Father Josette furnished 12 lbs. of flour and four loaves of bread.
February 14-Started. at 11 a. in.; made Mud prairie at 4 p. mn.
and camped at the crossing. Snow two feet nine inches deep. Number of fallen trees, this day, across the road is 46.
February 15.-Started at daybreak; travelled rapidly on the crust
of the snow; snow shoes sank in but little; camped at 223 mile post.
Number of fallen trees across the road to-day are 57; snow, 3 feet.
February 16.-Started at 5a a. in.; slow travelling; reached the
foot of the divide at 4-1 p. in.; camped; snow six feet deep. None of
the crossings are frozen. Number of fallen trees across the road this
day are 55.
February 17.-Started at S a. in. and made the summit of Sohion's




BENON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                 137
Pass at 6 a..; seven feet four inches of snow on the summit of the
mountain; pushed on to the log-house and camped. Snow here 8
feet deep; snow shoes sank in 13 inches. Number of trees across the
road to-day seven.
February 18.-Started at 5 am.; dark; bad travelling on account
of the melting snow. Arrived at Cantonment Jordan at 3 p. m.
Total number of trees across the road fromn the Mission to Cantonment Jordan are 165, of which 158 were on the road along the Cceur
d'Ale river. But little snow before reaching the mountains; snow
increasing gradually to the highest section of the mountains. The
maximum depth on the summit of the mountains, as measured, being
seven feet four inches.
I am, sir, respectfully, your obedient servant,
P. E. TONIIILL.
Lieut. JOHN MULLAN.
CANTONMENT JORDAN, BITTER ROOT MOUNTAINS, W. T.,
February 21, 1860.
Respectfully submitted to Office Ex. and Surveys, War Department.
JOHN MULLAN,
1st Lieutenant 2d Artillery, in charge of Military Road.
FORT OWEN, BITTER ROOT VALLEY,
Washington Territory, March 7, 1860.
SIR: According to your instructions to examine the valley of'Snake
river upwards from Fort Taylor to "Red Wolf's crossing," I left
your camp, at the mouth of the Tuckanon creek, on the morning of
July 1, 18509, with one man and three horses. The Indian trail leading to the Wolf's, on Al-pah-hah crossing, follows the north bank of
Snake river, which, offering less difficulties for horses, I crossed the
river at your camp and took the above-mentioned trail, following it
upwards to the place of my destination. Snake river valley, as far as
I ascended it, is entirely destitute of timber, and the enclosing bluiffs
are also naked, and only covered with bunch grass, giving it quite a
mountain aspect. The valley itself gains gradually more the character of a cailon, and the bluffs become in the same degree more rocky
and perpendicular, and affor'ds more difficulty to the location of the
trail. At the top of the bluffs the surfiace gains the form Of long
rolling, plateaus, cut up by steep ravines, which extend backward
from the river from four to six miles, many of which, in spring, contain running water heading in the plateaus. These tributaries to
Snake river are not very large, but are of great importance to the
Indians, who by this means irrigate their fields, which they have
established at every little point where the valley extends and the soil
promises to yield a crop. The Indians are so anx~ous to profit by




138                 MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
every piece of ground fit for cultivation, that islands, and even portions of islands, are used for this purpose. Besides wheat and corn,
they raise vegetables of different kinds and gain sufficient crops to
encourage them in their labors. The soil generally does not appear
to be rich in the valley, but gravelly and sandy; but the plateaus on
both sides produce fine grass, offering magnificent pasture grounds.
The cultivated ground, amounting to from three to four hundred acres,
is distributed into seven farms, of greater or less extent, the lower
two of which belong to the Pelouse Indians, and the remainder to
members of the Nez Perces tribe.  The river flowing between  Red
Wolf's crossing" and Fort Taylor is a semi-circle, convexed towards
the north, bends little in itself, but, whre it does, forms sharp curves,
occasioned by projecting rocks springing out from the bluffs. The
average width of the stream is three hundred and fifty yards at the
stage of water in July; and I noticed only one place, about thirteen
and a half miles above Fort Taylor, where, for a mile and a half, it
reaches a width of five hundred yards. The current of the water is
very rapid, but I am unable to give its velocity; I think, though,
that it is about the same as observed by Mr. Weisner at Fort Taylor.
No obstruction of any consequence exists to its navigation for the
whole distance of sixty-five and a half miles, and te only rapid which
extends from bank to bank-situated about four and a half miles above
Fort Taylor-is far more insignificant than all those below the mouth
of the Pelouse river. At four other points, all situated above the
just mentioned place, the river forms small rapids, extending partly
across the stream, leaving a large space of water unobstructed for
shipping purposes.  Snake river, in comparison with other large
streams on this side of the Rocky mountains, forms but few islands;
the only one of any extent on the portion of it seen by. me is twentyfive and a half miles above Fort Taylor, and just below the first Pelouse farm. This is an island of one mile in length and half a mile
in width, covered with luxuriant grass, used by the Indians for pasture ground when the side hill grass has been dried up by the summer's heat. The main channel of the river passes the southerly shore
of' the island, which, in fact, is only divided from the main land by
an arm of water not exceeding twenty-five yards in width; besides
this largrest island, I counted thirteen others, all of which, but one,
are above the lower Pelouse farm. The depth of Snake river must be
great, and at all stages of water above fording. Its bed is gravelly
and in some portions rocky. Below Alamot6' creek, which is thirtynine and a half miles above Fort Taylor, five small creeks empty into
Snake river f rom the north and two from the south; six miles above
Alamot6' creek, where the upper Pelouse farm is established, the
second large creek, named "1Awanwi, empties into Snake river just
above the first Nez Perce's farm. From the west bank of the Awanwi
creek the Nez Perce's race ground. extends along Snake river for one
mile and three-quarters. This is a level but gravelly tract of land,
with a soil too barren to produce even sage brush. From Awanwi to
Skalaisson's creek the distance is fifteen miles, in which interval four
more small creeks empty from the north side into Snake river. Skalaisson's creek, running in the ravine which the trail from the "1Red




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                139
Wolf's crossing" towards the north follows, heads four and a half
miles from its mouth, which last is about two and a half miles below
the mouth of the Al-pah-hah creek. At Al-pah-hah creek a tribe of
Nez Percs, under their chief, Timothy, have a permanent village,
with houses constructed of buffalo skins and mats, supported by a
light frame-work. I was friendly received by Timothy's son, Edward,
ferried over and treated to salmon, which fish we caught in great
numbers in the waters of Snake river. Opposite the mouth of Al-pahhah creek is a high, rugged, and timberless mountain, called "Tailuts  which overtowers all others.  This mountain, standing in the
course of Snake river has forced that stream out of its way, causing
it to make two abrupt turns to get around its base. At the mouth of
Al-pah-hah creek is a spring, known to the Indians as Al-pah-hah
spring, which is said to contain some healing power. Snake river
being, as aboe stated, entirely destitute of timber, the Indians living
along its shore have to depend entirely for fuel upon driftwood, which,
at every freshet, is deposited in great quantities by the water along
the river shores, and then carefully gathered by the Indians. The
valley of Snake river is so cafion-like that it would be very difficult to
construct a wagon road in it, for that reason alone; but then the absence of timber would almost make it an impossibility for railroad
purposes. These difficulties would be increased by the sudden sharp
curves, which would involve long rocky excavations, or the construction of bridges across the wide and rapid stream. Wagons proceeding
to the upper Nez Percs country will find, though, an easy road along
the north plateau, if they will keep far enough from the bluff's edge
to head the ravines; water and grass are plentiful, and also wood in
patches.  Leaving "1Red Wolf's crossing" without being able to
procure a guide, on the morning of July 4, I resolved to follow the
plateau road towards the Pelouse river, even without assistance,
rather than return with my tender-footed. animals over the rocky
river trail By information, I had learned of a trail leading in that
direction, and concluded to hunt for it and return by it to your camp.
The trail in question gained the plateau by the Skalaisson' s ravine,
which is four and a half miles long. The trail in the ravine is bad in
places, but, compared with the generality of mountain trails, is a
good one. In four and three-quarter miles I gained the top of a
small prairie ridge, and in one mile and three-tenths further I stiuck
abroad trail forking towards the west, which I thought was the one
spoken of by the Indians  After following it for nine and one-fifth
miles, and passing four fine springcs and a trail leading from the river
towards the north, the trail I was travelling gave out, when I concluded to turn and follow the trail which I crossed three and two-fifths
miles back, in search of Mr. Sohon, whom I knew to be encamped at
Tathunah hill. It was 21 p. m. when I lost the trail, and I had to
travel fast in order to reach Mr. Sohon's camp before night, as my
provisions were almost exhausted, having started with only two small
loaves of bread and a few pounds of boiled meat, which last was spoiled
by the heat on the first day out from your camp. In ten and a half
miles I crossed a prairie ridge four hundred feet high; and six and a
quarter miles further I struck a small grove, which I recognized as a




140               MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
camping place of Mr. Sohon, on Sma-kol creek as indicated on his
sketch, of which I had a tracing with me. Still pushing on, I crossed,
in three miles and seven-tenths, Sma-kol creek, after having passed
acamas prairie. From the crossing I went over a small prairie ridge
and camped, after a ride of forty-one miles, on a creek which contained
bad-tasting water in holes.  No bush or sae brush was to be seen
to which our animals could be tied, and we ad to turn them loose.
Mosquitoes and gnats were innumerable, and kept our horses moving
all night long, so that they had disappeared the next morning far out
of sight, and were only found after a search ofmany hours. Knwg
now where I was, I determined to take Mr. Soon's road along Smakol creek, and try to reach your camp that night, without hunting up
the camp of Mr. Sohon, who might have moved from Tathunah ill.
Following down Sma-kol creek on its right bank for five and five-tens
miles to the crossing point, I struck, in halt' a mile more, the trail
travelled by Mr. Sohon, and reached, in eleven miles and three-fifths,
Smokle Creek valley, which I followed down for ten and five-tents
miles. At this spot I found an Indian lodge, and obtained, for a few
rounds of ammunition, some tea and salmon. Resuming our march
on the afternoon of July 7, we camped on the Smokle creek, after
having descended it for fourteen miles and seven-tenths; the day
was very hot, and my horses quite fatigued, having made forty-two
miles. The next morning I started at daylight, and joined your camp
on the Pelouse river at 10 a. m., after a march of nineteen miles.
The valley of Smokle creek having been described in Mr. Sohon's
report, I think it unnecessary to rer to it here.
Very respectfully, your obedient servant,
P. M. ENGLE,
Topographical Engineers.
Lieut. JOHN MULLAN, U. S. A.,
Gom'g Fort W~ata- Walla and Fort Benton Mul. Road Expedition.
M.
Report of a reconnaissance of the country between In-chaty-kahn camp
and the lower portion of Spokane prairie, and of the portion of Spokane river between the (Jceur d'Alene trail and the Colville wagon
road ferry.
FORT OWEN, Bitter Boot Valley, W. T., M1arch 8, 1860.
SIR: Receiving your instructions of September 19, 1859, respecting an examination of' the country between some point westward of
Power lake and the Spokane prairie, with the view to the location of
a wagon road, I was delayed until the 24th of' September by continued rain storms at the main camp of the party on the Ten-mile
prairie on Coeur d'Ale~ne river, at which date I started with one man,
two ridingP and two pack animals, and camped on Coeur d'Ale'ne river
six and five-tenths miles west of the Mission. I had to remain there
the next day, my animals having strayed off, being found only late




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                141
in the evening. On September 26th I reached St. Joseph's river
crossing; at evening it began to rain, and continued to do so for the
ight and next day, obliging me to remain in camp. On September
28th I crossed the St. Joseph's river, and followed the wagon road
towards In-caty-kahn, at which place I camped.  The Coeur d'Alene
Indians, who were encamped along the St. Joseph's river, annoyed
me considerably, in stopping me repeatedly with the view of obtaining
some presents. September 29th commenced with rain. I started
early, and followed the In-chaty-kahn Creek valley downwards for six
and three-fourts miles on its right bank; there crossed the creuk,
and kept the left bank for one and a half mile, at which point I made
two crossings but a few yards apart from each other. The direction of
the valley to this point is. 86 W.  No obstruction of any description
would offer itselfto the location of a wagon road. The low prairie hills
which, for the first one and a half mile, closely hug the creek, recede
after that distance, and leave a valley bottom of one-half mile in
width. The creek, lined with brushwood, contained water only in
holes; but the winding bed is cut deeply, showing in different places
the sin of a strong water current in high-water season. Large, open
pine timber covered the low hills, which produce fine bunch grass.
The above-mentioned first crossing of the creek cannot be avoided, as
the creek makes a bend towards the north and keeps close to the hills,
from which its waters have washed off the foot-slopes, transforming
them into a perpendicular cut of ten feet in height. The two following crossings can be easily turned, occasioning only a detour of eighty
to one hundred yards. In one and a quarter mile lower down, the
road would enter the open timber, and one-half mile from there a
crossing to the right bank would be necessary at the same point where
the trail crosses, and then follow that bank for one and three quarters
of a mile to a place where the trail leaves the In-chaty-kahn valley,
and takes a more northwesterly direction. At the place where the
road leaves the valley, a small ridge of one and a half miles in width,
with easy ascent and descent, lying between two parallel running
tributaries of the In-chaty-kahn creek, has to be crossed. Here a
little timber cutting will be found necessary, principally on the descent. In-chaty-kahn creek, a tributary of Lahtoo, creek, is nine or
ten feet wide, and has at the point selected for crossing a gravelly bed,
which at the present season is scarcely covered with water. From the
foot of the above-mentioned little ridge the road would lead for three
and a half' miles over undulating ground, covered with open pine
timber, to a third tributary of the In chaty-kahn; and in two and a
half miles further, over a. country of the same description, would strike
a fourth one, which runs in quite a broad bottom; part of' which is
miry, and would require some corduroy work. Three-eighths of a mile
from this point the trail forks; the wagon road would follow the north
fork to save an angle made by the left hand trail, which strikes the
five tributaries of In-chaty-kahn creek one and three-tenths of a mile
below the crossing point of the upper trail. From the forking point
the trail strikes the said tributary in two miles, and the lower one in
one and nine-tenthis of a mile. I followed the lower trail to reach
camp as soon as possible, as it had been raining all day, and we were




142                MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
drenched and cold. This little water-run affords good camping places,
with plenty of water, wood, and grass. The valley is from one hundred and eighty to two hundred yards wide, enclosed by low hills
covered with pine timber; the creek itself being lined with willow
and cotton-wood. Made 22 miles to-day.
September 30.-Ascending the valley for one and one-tenth of a
mile, I struck the point of the upper trail, and one-quarter of a mile
from there left the valley, ascending an easy divide of 250 to 300 feet,
the top of which I gained in one mile. The descent is as gradual as
the ascent, but somewhat more densely timbered; but by removing a
few trees any wagon could be brought down to the creek, which flows
one and one-quarter of a mile from the top of the divide in a narrow
valley. At this point the road has to descend the creek in keeping
on its left bank to a place where the pine timber disappeared, there
it will ascend the low and gently sloping side hill, and strike, following almost an air line, in five and four-tenths mies, the Spokane river,
opposite the termination of the bluff running behind Antoine Plant's
farm. From this point the road can follow the Spokane river onits
left bank until within five miles of the place, where it leaves the river
altogether, and striking over the mountains pass towards the Fort
Walla-Walla and Colville wagon road.
No obstruction of any moment will be found to bring wagons over,
even in the present natural state of the ground, whereas, on the right
bank, same considerable work will be unavoidable. Mr. Kollecki
having already reported to you regarding this latter section of the
country over which the road would have to go, 1 think it unnecessary
to do so again. The Spokane river, which I crossed at Antoine Plant's
house in a boat, I found to be eight feet deep in the channel, and big
boulders in its bed. My animal having strayed off, I remained the
next day at the farm, and started only Oc-tober 2 for Colville depot.
I camped that night at the Spikane fishery, near the mouth of the
little Spokane river, a distance of 20 miles-having taken the most
certain route to gain that point.
October 3.-I started early, but, having mistaken the trail, I
travelled for about 10 miles in the direction of Pend d'Oreille lake,
and only then finding that I was wrong, I had to retrace my steps;
but, making a short cut, I gained before evening the Spokane river,
about 10 miles below my last night's camp, and, in three marches,
arrived at the Colville depot, where I was kindly received by the
officers of the post. On October 12, I made a survey of the wagon
road from the Colville depot to the Hudson's Bay Company's Fort.
This road leads through "1Pinkneyville," and then along Morigean's
creek passes the saw-mill, two and a half'miles distant from the depot,
and following the creek, which winds around a high mountain, gains,
in six miles and seven-tenths from the depot, the junction of the lower
or low water road, which runs for some distance through Mill Creek
valley, and becomes practicable for wagons only late in the season.
From the point of junction, the distance to the Hudson's Bay Fort is
seven miles and five-tenths, making a total distance of fourteen miles
and two-tenths, from place to place, by the upper road. This wagon
road is a natural one, and I doubt whether any work has been done




BETON T  FORT WALLA-WALLA.                143
on it, with the exception of corduroy bridges, which were constructed
during the summer of 1859. At Colville I was hospitably received by
the gentleman in charge, Mr. McDonald. In returning, the next
day, I extended my sketch a little by going to the old Colville Mission, and to the Kettle Falls of the Columbia river, and then following the wagon road to the grist-mill, which is located on Mill creek,
about a mile and a half above its mouth, at the forking of the lower
and upper roads. I took the bottom road, and, having run a compass line over the whole distance, I found the lower road two miles
and one-tenth shorter than the upper one. At the Colville depot I
learned that Commissioner Campbell, of the northwest boundary survey, with party was shortly expected, and that there was a possibility
that he might go down the Columbia river. I therefore determined
to await his arrival, knowing that you were anxious and intended to
have that important stream surveyed from Fort Colville to Fort WallaWalla. Mr. Campbell, who arrived on the 16th, found that the preparation of the boat would occasion a long delay, and preferred, for
that reason, to make the trip by land. Having obtained permission
from Mr. Campbell to travel with his company, I started with him
)and Mr. Warren on the 20th of October. In three marches we reached
the lower end of Walker's prairie, where Mr. Campbell was unfortunately delayed for a day, by the straying off of his team mules. I
pushed on and camped on the Spokane river, three miles above the
frry. I took advantage of m  presence in this part of the country
to run a compass line from the ferry to the place where the lower
Cocur d'Al.ne trail to Colville leaves the Spokane river-knowing that
this section had never been surveyed. I found the distance bet~ween
the two points seven miles and three-tenths; of' which - miles are
rendered difficult by the closing in of the side hills; but just above
the ferry a company has commenced to build a bridge, which was not
completed at the time I passed. The day was so foggy and rainy that
I hardly could see across the river, which runs in quite a narrow valley walled in by steep, rocky hills; open pine timber covers the valley to the very edge of the water, which has a swift current over a
rocky bed. Having made 26 miles, I camped on a small creek, three
miles west of Antoine Plant's house; at this latter place, which I.reached on the morning, of' October 25, 1 took an Indian to guide
me to the Cocur d'Ale'ne Mission, where I arrived on the evening of
October 28. Reverend Father Garroli kindly offered me the accommodation of the Mission, and supplied me the next morning with oats,
which I needed for my weak animals-knowing that I would find no
grass between the Mission and your camp, whichi I was informed by
the reverend father had been pushed to the east side of the'' divide,'
making two more camps on this portion of the road. I joined your
party, October 30, on the "1Five-mile prairie," on the St. Regis Borgia river.
Very respectfully, your obedient servant,
P. M. ENGLE,
Lieutenant JOIIN MULLAN,TogrpiaEnnem
U. S. Army, Commanding M1ilitary Road Ex~pedition.




144                MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
N.
Report of a reconnaissance from the Cur d'Alne river to Thompson's
prairie, on Clark's Fork; thence to the St.  natius Mission; thence
along the left bank of Clark's Fork to Horse Plain; thence across the
mountain to the Bitter Root river; thence up the St. Regis Borgia
river, and over the high divide to the ten mile prairie on the Cceur
d'Alene river.
FORT OWEN, B      RoOT VALLEY,
Washington Territory, March 9, 1860.
SIR: Having received, on the 18th  f August 1859, your instrutions regarding an exploration of a road across the Bitter Root montains towards T'hompson's prairie on the Clark's Fork of the Columbia,
which had been described by different persons as probably practicable
for wagons, I left your camp at the Cour d'Alne Mission on the
same evening, accompanied by two Coeur d'Alne Indians, with three
riding and two pack animals. At the four mile prairie of the Cour
d'Alene river, whe e your working parties, under Messrs. Williamson
and Spengler, were encamped, I joined the party of Mr. Sohon, who
started for an exploration of the country towards the Bitter Root
valley, and kept company with his party until the morning of August 21, when I parted with him, leavingthe Ceur d'Alne river
trail about twenty-five miles east of the Mission, and, following my
Indian guide, we took a northerly direction, ascending a tolerably
steep ravine, with running water, and enclosed by high, thicklytimbered ridyres. The little creek, which is crossed and recrossed
many times by the scarcely visible trail, heads three miles from the
place where 1 left the Coeur d'Ale'ne river trail, and one mile to the
northwest from. the point where my present trail leaves it, which
ascends a very steep ridge densely covered with pine trees. In a mile
and three-quarters 1 gained the summit of the ridge, which has an
elevation ot 1,500 feet above the Coeur d'AJe'ne river. To the right
of the trail runs a narrow ravine connected by a low saddle with
another running down the north slope of the ridge; those two ravines
could be used tor the location of the road; but the removal of rocks,
and of the fallen and standing timber to the mouth of the narrow ravine,
would occasion considerable labor. At the top of the ridge I saw two
valleys betore me divided by a high ridge, both of which contain running water, which joins at the termination of the ridge. In four miles
and a half' over a very dangerous trail along, the steep mountain
slopes, I gained the first creek, which the trail follows upwards; after
crossing the creek, which is ten feet wide, I took the opposite mountain; commencing here the ascent, all signs of a trail disappearing,
we had frequently to use the hatchet to open a way for the animals,
and finally had to cut the entire road, the young timber being so dense
that not even a man could have passed through. In this laborious
wanner I pushed on until late in the evening, having made but two
miles and'a half since I crossed the last mentioned creek, but gained
an altitude of about 2,500 feet. I camped on the mountain slope in




BENON TO FORT WALA-WALLA.                   14)
a large patch of huckleberries, which proved to be quite an acceptable
substitute for water; I was forced to tie up my animals to have them
at baud early in the morning.
August 22.-Started at 5.10 a. m. Ascended 700 feet higher, using
the hatchet aain for a half mile, then followed along the slope of the
ridge about 500 feet below the backbone of it. Rock slides, fallen
timber and slippery grass made this an exceedingly difficult road.
In a mile and a half we found a little spring on the hill-side, and my
Indians proposed to camp, to which I gladly acceded. It appeared to
me that the Indian whom you had employed as guide was a little uncertain about the way to proceed. We had only travelled over the trail
once in winter time on snow-shoes, and the different appearance of the
ground, with its difficulties exposed, evidently puzzled him. Not
understanding the language, I could only converse by signs with
him, but I easily comprehended that he wanted me to stop to give
him time to examine the character of the ground ahead. I furthermore understood that we had to follow the crest of a high, rugged
ridge, the southerly slope of which is one rock slide from top to bottom,
which lies before me a distance of about six miles. How to bring my
animals over was not quite clear. Alexis, the guide, left camp as soon
as I  ad cooked breakfast, and Nicholas, the second Indian, collected
the animals which at the risk of their lives, were clambering along
the rocks to collect their scanty food.  The country is filled with
smoke and no extensive distant view could be gained, but I could
discover in the chasm below me the only place where the wagon road
could be located; the fallen timber and rocks are piled above each
other to a considerable height, and the creek boils over and through
them. The opposite ridge is well timbered, steep, and about 3,800
to 4,000 feet high, and closes in so narrowly with the ridge forming
my road that no valley bottom at all is left. Towards evening clouds
gathered over us, and it began to rain at -nightfall. Alexis returned
towards supper-time, and gave me to understand that the road ah~ad
is bad.
August 23.-I remained in camp, as it is still raining. I had to
alter the cruppers of my pack-saddles, which injured my mules, and,
had to make some alterations in the rigging generally. In the after-,
noon a heavy thunder-storm passed over a portion of the mountain
bedC but burst against the highest ridges, and the heavy clouds disappeared almost in the same direction where they come. Alexis starts
out again to make a further examination. It cleared off at noon, but
the atmosphere is still filled with smoke and haze.
August 21.-Started at 6.47 a. m. The day is warm and clear, but
the atmosphere is still filled with smoke. In two miles and threequarters I gained the top of the ridge, ascending gradually, findingthe same obstructions in the road as heretofore; keeping along the
very backbone of the mountain, which at places is not wider than two,
or three feet, I reached in five miles and three-quarters more the
highest point, which is a granite rock formation of about 3,500,
feet high, with a perpendicular rock bluff to the north, and a rock
slide of 600 grade to the south. On the north slope hard packed,
snow, from two to four feet in depth, fills up the ravines and covers
H. Ex. Doc. 44-~10




146                MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
the ground in many places where it has been drifted up during the
winter. Four ponds, the largest one at the foot of the highest rock,
gave a pleasant relief to the monotonous scenery; a dense pine forest
covers all the northerly ridges which extend towards Clark's Fork,
forming one immense mountain bed, only the outlines of which can
be seen indistinctly through the smoke. To the south the main ridge,
which gets steeper and steeper, approaches more and more, though not
so rugged as the one I am on. It is much more heavily timbered,
however. The next three miles we passed over the worst road I ever
travelled in my life; the ridge runs out to a rocky crest, which gives
not more than from one to two feet footing; sharp rocks, intermixed
with loose stones packed upon each other, made every step insecure,
and we had to proceed with great care. For two-thirds ofthe distance
the north slope forms a perpendicular rock wall of 1,100 to 1,500 feet
elevation. With hard labor we built a kind of a road for the animals
by removing the biggest rocks and by steadying the loose stones in
the most narrow places. The descent to the low divide is steep, but
no rock slides are in the way, and we gained it in three-quarters of a
mile, and encamped on the head spring of the creek which waters the
valley. We made only 12 miles to-day, but spent 10 hours on the
road; the animals are much exhausted, and so am I; we found good
grass at the divide, which itself forms a low saddle connecting the two
high ridges.
August 25.-Started at 6.39 a. m. We had to gain the top of the
ridge again, as it was found impossible to follow the valley which is
rendered impassable by fallen timber and rocks. In one and threequarters of a mile we reached the summit a-gain, advancing and ascending gradually, and discovered from, there that the low hill forming the
divide has a width of only one-half of a mile, and that the two head
springs, sending their wvaters in opposite directions, are situated at the
foot of'said hill. The road on the ridge is much the same as yesterday,
and at one point it was so bad that the lndian guide proposed to try
the'valley once more; we therefore descended, but before reaching the
bottom we saw that it was impossible to get along in it, and had to
retrace our steps; two of my horses rolled down part of the mountain
at the point where we tried to descend, and one of them got hurt badly.
I observed two large ponds on the north side of the ridge, and also
again an abundance of more. The timber on the ridge we followed
is increasing, and the fallen timber augments my difficulties in getting
along; three and three-quarters iniles from. the point where I gained
the top of the ridge I commenced the deep de-scent formed by a long
spur running towardls the creek bed, which I reached in four and a
half miles. In some places the slope was so steep that the animals
had to slide, bearing down by their weight the small pine trees and
bushes which thickly covered the ground. The creek at the foot of
the ridge is 25 feet wide, carries a large quantity of water, and runs
in a rocky bed, which is closely hugged by the mountains on both
sides; at the point wher e I struck and crossed the creek a densely -
timbered flat borders it on the east side,'and over this my way led for
four and a halt miles. Eavin gmade 14 miles I went to camp, as it
was getting late, and my animals appeared to be much fatigued.




BENTON TO FOIT WALLA-WALLA.                147
August 26.-Made a late start, my animals having strayed off during
the night.  The road to-day leads along the creek, sometimes taking
the side hills but for the main part keeping in the bottom, which is
much encumbered by brushwood and fallen timber. I have forgotten
to mention that in striking the creek I also struck a small trail, which
was so blind that even my Indians lost it frequently during the day.
Shortly after leaving camp I crossed a small tributary to the main
creek coming from the south, and one mile lower down a'second one
from the north; three and three-quarters miles still lower a large
spring branch, heading in the creek valley itself, forms a bad slough
of one-quarter ofa mile in width; the foot slopes of the enclosing high
ridges leave room to the valley, and the creek winding from side to
side forces the trail often over the little spurs. I could not form a
~~good estimatte of the altitude of the main ridge on account of the dense
smoke which allowed only occasional glimpses of their tops, but I
should jude that they were at least 2,500 feet high. I had hoped
to reach Clark's Fork to-day, but a heavy thunder-storm which overtook us forced me to go t camp at 31 p. m., having made 16 miles;
an extensive fire was raging on the Clark's Fork, and has extended
high up on the creek that I was following. All the grass is burnt,
and my animals are badly off for food. At night the mountains presented a magnificent picture-te rain and wind had driven off the
smoke and ire lines extending high up on the mountain slopes,
reaching, in some places, to the very tops of the ridges, and in others
spreading with surprising rapidity over the fire-furnishing surface,
gave a most fscinating aspect to the landscape.
August 27.-Starting at 61 a. in., I passed in half a mile a large
tributary coming from the northwest. The main creek itself; now a
considerable stream, with an exceedingly rapid current, sends its boiling water over huge rocks, which gives the bed the appearance of an
unbroken rapid. In one and three-quarters mile below camp I crossed
the creek with great difficulty. The water's depth was three and a
halt feet, and thle bottom consisted of one smooth bed covered with a
slippery moss which the transparency of the water permitted to be
seen most plainly. The high ridges which fall back indicate the
approach to a large valley, and also the suddenly changed course of
the creek which so far has tollowed a northeasterly direction, and now
suddenly changed towards the northwest. After crossing the creek
I travelled for one and a half mile over a high, rolling ground well
timbered with pine, which has much suffered, though, from the late
-fires. I ciossed then a small creek which empties two miles below
my crossing point into the large creek which I just left. In one and
a half mile further I struck the shores of' Clark's Fork, after having
woundl my way through a bed of rocky cones which have a height of'
from 40 to 50 feet; one-quarter of a mile above the place where 1
struck the Clark's Fork its current is obstructed by, a large rapid,
which must be called a waterfall of eight feet. The opposite shore
was pointed out to me at Thompson's Prairie. Jn one and one-quarter
of a mile more I found a suitable camping place with some grass along
the water's edge. The opposite shore is in full blaze, and the wind
blowing from the west drives the flames, unfortunately, in the direction




148                MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
which I have to follow. Several deer are forced to swim the river in
order to escape the fire, which extends to the water's edge.
August 28. —Remained in camp.  We collected material to build a
raft, and before noon we had constructed a kind of floating structure,
very fragile indeed, but my Indians think it is more than strong
enough to do its duty. The fire is still raging on the opposite shore,
but has extended more towards the north.
August 29,-In two trips I landed everything safely on the right
bank of Clark's Fork; and after having swam the animals, I took up
a line of march along the shore of the river which has a width of two
hundred yards. In three miles I reached a small but rapid running
creek, which I crossed at its mouth. On the left bank of the river is
a high, almost perpendicular rock connected with the high river ridge,
which gradually has neared the river shores by a well-timbered slope
of 1,500 feet elevation. The right shore forms a large plain, which,
from the water's edge to the bluff, must have an extent of three or
four miles; but I could not make an estimation of its width, as everything is enveloped in smoke. In one and three-fourths miles from
the creek crossing the rocky bluffs of the right bank close into the
river and render the trail difficult for three-fourths of a mile. The
road is then easy for four miles, and is only now and then obstructed
by thick brushwood; at the end of that distance I crossed a small
creek, and two miles higher up I struck a point, which will be well
remembered by all who have ever passed it, called the  Bad Rock."
It is formed by a rock point running out to the very water's edge,
terminating there in a perpendicular bluff. The Indian trail, which,
in its present location, offers undeniably great difficulties to the
animals, winds high up on the bluff side, and regains in the same
serpentine manner the bottom, about three hundred yards above the
place where it left it. I am confident that, with comparatively little
work, a good wagon road could be made; but it would certainly
require blasting for a distance of one hundred and fifty to two hundred yards. In three and three-fourths miles, which were made over
an almost level road, with the exception of the last three-fourths of a
mile, where the trail passed a few insignificant, low, rocky spurs, I
gained a little creek, where I camped, having made sixteen miles.
Augu~st 30.-Started at 6.50 a. m. In one and a half mile from
camp the low foot-hills of the high river bluffs close into the river at
a point where I noticed another river rapid, and which renders the
road somnewhat rocky for one mile, but offering no serious obstacle.
The opposite mountain ridge has been getting lower and lower, and
has finally dwindled down to a low hill range. The high bluffs of the
right bank recede and give place to a large, extensive fiat, which only
in some places is covered with open pine forest. Having reached the
Kootenay trail, I left the river, and, shaping my course more northeastwardly, I gained the Indian road leading to the camas prairie.
This portion of the country having been often described in former
reports, I confine myself to the recapitulation of the main ground
features. Little or no difficulty will be found to bring the wagons
over this portion of the route until the ravine is reached which leads
downwards to the camas prairie; there heavy grading for one mile




'BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.               149
wi be necessary, as the hill-sides are steep and the soil is intermixed
with rock. Having ascended the steep river bluff one hundred and
fifty feet high, I reached in one and three-fourths mile the top of
low-timbered plateaus which run along a valley bordered to the northwest by a ridge of 1,100 to 1,500 feet of altitude. The plateau is
covered with weeds, sending its waters through the above-mentioned
ravine towards the camas prairie, where it sinks into the ground.
The plateau itself runs along the foot slopes of the ridge, which
gradually increases in height, and finally gains an altitude of 1,200
feet, terminating at the lake, from which point the trail leads over
foot-hills for two and three-fourths miles, and then takes, after crossing the creek, to the north slope of the ravine. Of the different trails
which lead over the camas prairie, I chose the one which runs along
its southwesterly border, which is marked by a timbered ridge of
nabout 1,200 feet. In hal a mile from the mouth of the ravine I
crossed the creek, and then travelled for six and a quarter miles, over
almost level ground, to the top of a small prairie elevation. In one
and three-fourths mile further I crossed a creek running in a valley,
with easy ascent and descent, and two miles further I gained the
valley of Clark's Fork by a gradual and easy descent. At this place
I found a well-beaten trail which led to the river crossing; we tried
the ford, but found it too deep, and I concluded to ascend the Flathead
river to its intersection with the Jocko river, and effect a crossing
there. Having made twenty-four and eight-tenths miles, I went to
camp a quarter of a mile above the place where I struck the river.
My Indians seem to be uncertain in which direction to proceed; but
having a map along, I soon convinced them by signs that we had to
ascend the valley in view to gain the St. Ignatius Mission.
August 31.-Started at 6.53 a. m. One-fourth mile above camp I
crossed a creek which runs in a narrow ravine and heads about three
miles to the north on the camas prairie. One mile and a quarter
above that creek the river widens to double its extent, an d is split up
by a great many islands of different size, and well covered with brushwood. Here my Indians tried again to cross, assuring me that the
road was much better on the opposite side; but the depth of the
water forced us to turn back, and taking up our road again, we had to
mount a high river bluff with a steep and rocky descent. Then
skirting along the water's edge I gained, at five miles and threequarters from my last night's camping place, a fine bottom of~ three
miles in length, again hemmed in by the river bluffs. For a mile and
a half the trail gains a plateau, which, after rounding a projecting
rock, strikes the river at the usual fording place, two miles above the
mouth of' the Jocko river, in three miles. Here I crossed with much
difficulty, and not without drenching my packs. Instead of ascending
the valley of the Jocko river, as my Indians intended to do, I ascended
the Clark's Fork for one and a quarter mile further, and then followed "IPlum creek," knowing that it was the shortest route to reach
the Mission. At the entrance of "IMission creek " into "I Plum
creek " I struck a large lodge trail, which brought me to the place
of my destination. I was most kindly received by Reverend Fathers
Minetrey and Louis, and hospitably invited to stay as long as I de



150               MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
sired. I made to-day twenty-one miles and a half. My animals are
very tired, and two of the horses I shall be obliged to trade off.
September 3.-Reverend Father Con giato arrived from Fort Benton,
and left.
September 5.-I left the Mission in company with Reverend
Fathers Congiato and Minetrey, who intended to visit the Ceur
d'Alene Mission. In four miles and a half I struck the Jocko river,
and after crossing it, followed down Clark's Fork on its left bankfor
16.4 miles, and camped, having made 20.9 miles. The road along
the river, with the exception of one point where a mountain closes in
for one fourth of a mile, is a very good one. The ground is level, firm,
and not rocky. The small creeks, with gravelly bottom and fine
grass along their shores, afford good camping grounds.
September 6.-Started at 6.44 on the trail. After passing the
crossing point opposite the place where the road leading towards the
camas prairie ascends the bluff, it becomes more and more indistinct,
as it is very seldom travelled by Indians. Many rocky and swampy
places make the road a difficult one; and a bad rock spur, perpendicular foot slope, which is washed by the river waters, forces the
trail over a high and stone-covered mountain which is almost as bad
as the " Bad Rock" above Thompson's prairie.  In two places
where no ascent to the ridge can be gained, and the river runs close
to the bluffs, the trail leads along the river bed with a depth of water
from two and ahalftothree feet. Thirteenmilesbelowthecamasprairie
trail crossing I struck the Bitter Root river, which appears to flow
through a narrow valley enclosed by high mountains. I effected a
crossing at the junction of the two rivers without any difficulty, and
followed down Clark's Foik seven miles and a quarter further 
which portion of the road is good, and only made disagreeable to
travel by the dense brushwood. I camped on the shores of the river
and on the upper end of the "1Horse Plain," having made 20.9 miles.
September 7.-Started at 7.27 a. in., and took a straight, magnetic,
southerly course, to gain the top of the mountain ridge which forms
the divide of the waters of Clark's Fork, the Bitter Root, and the St.
Regis Borgia rivers. The ascent and descent are in some places very
steep, and rendered difficult by fallen timber; but the trail is well
marked and broad. The distance from river to river I estimated at
ten miles and a half, and the height of the ridge at 1,500 feet. As.
cending the Bitter Root river valley for eight miles, in which I met
with no difficulty on the road, I went to camp, having made eighteen
and a half miles. I observed two small rapids in the Bitter Root
river, and counted two creeks which both empty on the left bank.
September 8.-One mile above camp I left the river at the crossing
point, and striking over the little divide towards the St. Regis Borgia, I camped on this l atter stream, after a march of twenty -six miles.
September 9.-I ascended the river valley to the foot of the big divide and camped there, having made -fifteen miles. It has been raining
all day, and we expect to find snow on the top of the divide.
September 10.-I crossed to-day the divide, and, as predicted by the
Indians, found the top covered with snow. From base to base of the
mountain I estimated the distance twenty-four miles. Descending the
UCeur d'Ale'ne river for six miles, I camped on a small prairie, and




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                 151
had the honor to report myself at your camp on September 1-.
Knowing that a more careful survey would be made at a later period,
when the wagon road would have been located and constructed over
the country, I deferred running a compass line from the place where
the wagon road will cross the Bitter Root river westward to your camp.
Most respectfully, your obedient servant,
P. M. ENGLE, Topographical Engineer.
LieutenantJOHN MULLAN, U. S. A.,
In charge Fort Walla- Walla and Fort Benton Military Road.
O.
FORT OWEN,
Bitter Root Valley, W. T., M.arch 16, 1860.
Si   Having received on the 29th of July your instructions to examine, in company with Mr. Kollecki, the two forks of the St. Joseph's
river, from the point where the military road crosses the same, we
proceeded on that day to carry out your orders, and On that date
reached the forks of the main river, where we found a camp of Ceur
d'Ane Indians.  Finding it impossible to travel along the forks on
horseback, we made an arrangement with the Indians to take us in
bark canoes to the foot of the high mountain, which we saw at a distance of about sixteen miles, but the price which they demanded for
_their services appeared to us too exorbitant, and we returned to your_ 
camp at the crossing of the St. Joseph's river for further instructions.
Receiving your sanction to our plan to ascend the river in canoes, Mr.
Sohon (whom you had detailed instead of Mr. Kollecki) and myself
started July 30 for the Indian camp. Finding three bark canoes in
readiness for us, we started, and, after ascending the north fork of the
St. Joseph's river for eight and one-fourth miles, we reached a little
creek called "1Junemassequilam," running around the foot slopes of
the mountains, which we intended to ascend the next morning. As
this was the nearest point to the peak to bti gained by water, we
landed, encamped, and prepared for the morrow's journey. The character of the river is the same as observed by you at the military wagon
road crossing, the water being deep, with scarcely any current. The
banks are low, but steep. The river winds its way through a narrow
valley, touching alternately each side of the high mountain spurs,
forming in places small prairies, some of which contain lakes, or are
cut up by little creeks bordered by berry bushes. The Cceur d'Ale'ne
Indians consider this portion of the country the richest berry region
in the mountains, and visit it regularly towards the end of July and.
the commencement of August.
July 31.-Mr. Sohon, myself, and one Indian ascended to-day the
mountain, but before reaching, the summit we were convinced that we
would have~no distant view, and therefore retraced our steps. At one
p. m. the smoke of the burning timber enveloped the whole country,
and our Indian guide assured us that we would have no view until
after a heavy rain. In returning the Indian set fire to the woods




152               MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
1imself, and informed us that he did it with the view to destroy a
certain kind of long moss, which is a parasite to the pine trees in this
region, and which the deer feed on in winter season. By burning this
moss the deer are obliged to descend into the valleys for food, and
thus they have a chance to kill them. We remained during the night
at Junemassequilam creek, and returned August 1 in canoes to the
Indian camp, and from there on horseback to your main camp on the
St. Joseph's river.
Very respectfully, your obedient servant,
P. M. ENGLE,
Topographical Engineers.
Lieutenant JOHN MULLAN, U. S. A.,
In charge Military Road from Fort Walla- Walla to  ort Benton.
P.
Report of expressman carrying mail across Bitter Root mountains for
military road expedition in April and May, 1860.
April 7, 1860.-Started at an early hour from Cantonment Jordan,
and travelled as far as the fourth crossing of the St. Regis Borgia
river, about four miles from camp, where we were obliged to put on
our snow-shoes for the first time. Snow four feet two inches; bad
travelling. River low at present, but had evidently been high, as it
displaced nearly all the foot bridges.  Waded eleven crossings to-day
camped at the twenty-third crossing. Snowing all day; evening
clear.
April 8.-Started at 6 a. m.; travelled very slow; snow light and
dry; snow-shoes sank in eleven inches. Reached the summit of the
mountain at 1 p. m. Snow on the divide seven feet. From this
point to the Cceur d'Ahe'ne river the snow kept gradually growing
thinn~er. Reached the Coeur d'Ale"ne river at 3 p. m. and camped;
crossings much better to-day.
A,.pril 9. -Started at sunrise. Travelling much better to-day; crossings much worse  waded seven crossings to the south fork.  Here we
took to the side hills, but could not travel to advantage, as at some
points the bluffs were nearly perpendicular, and had to take the wagon
road again and commence wading. Reached a small prairie (five
miles from Mud Prairie) at sundown and camped.
April I10.-Started at sunrise; reached Mud Prairie at 9 a. in.; hung
our snow-shoes on the willows, the snow having disappeared entirely,
and pushed on for the last crossing, which we reached at 12; were
ferried over by an Indian to whom I paid a shirt. Arrived at the
Mission at 12j p. in., made arrangement to start in the morning;
after mature reflection we have come to the conclusion to hire a canoe
here to take us as far as the St. Joseph's river. Our horses were on said
river, and by sending after them would detain us at least three days.
The Indians would not let us have a canoe as we did not have cash to
pay them for the use of it.
In the morning Rev. Father Gazzoli concluded to let us take his
boat. We went to work and hewed at some oars after a fashion, and




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                153
got everything ready to start at 12 m. The father furnished thirty
pounds of flour, fr which I was to leave an order at McClenchy's for
the same amount, for one of the fathers from Portland.
April 11.-Started from the Mission at 12 m., reached the ferry on
the Cceur d'Amne river at 3 p.., where we found a large encampment of Indians; they said to us that it was impossible for us to go
throuh with a boat as the river was not open.  Placing little or no
confidence in their statement, I pushed on down the river and reached
a small prairie at 9 p.., ad camped on the left bank about two
miles from the lake.
April 12.- Started at 6 a..; soon made the lake and pulled across
some four miles; was obliged to put to shore, as the ice was not yet
broken; made our boat secure and were forced to shoulder our packs
aain. Two Indians from the Mission, who travelled with us, assisted
us in packing our things, one of those Indians that had charge of our
horses on the St. Josephs river.  We struck nearly a straight line
across to the ferry; were lucky in finding our horses ere reaching the
St. Joseph's; caught up four; leaving two in charge of the same Indian,
pushe  on to the ferry, which point we reached at sundown; crossed,
moved down three miles, and camped.
April 13.-Started at sunrise and soon reached the bridge, which
looks firm as yet, and appears to be capable to resist the pressure of
high water unless molested by the Indians, who are numerous here at
present; pushed on on the wagon road; good travelling; made Col.
Steptoe's council ground at 3 p. m.; continued on thirteen miles
further, where we found an excellent camp, and camped at sundown.
Distance travelled 41 miles.
A4pril 14-Started. at 6 a. in.; good travelling; road hard and dry;
reached Pelouse creek at 12 in.; rested the animals; pushed on to the
south branch, which we reached at 4 p. m. This had swollen considerably; crossed and moved on to the first crossing of the main
stream; was successful in finding a good ford 500 yards above the
wagon road; crossed and camped. Distance travelled 40 miles.
April 15.-Started at 7 a. *i.; struck~ a small Indian trail, which we
followed down on the north side of the Pelouse; good travelling, but
somewhat rocky. Struck the Colville wagon road at 11 a. in., which
we followed to Snake river; crossed two men and four horses, and
camped at 5 p. m..April 16.-Started at 5 a. in.; pushed on rapidly, determined to
make Walla-Walla if possible; reached the Touchet at 12 in.; rested
our horses one hour, and then pushed on; made Walla-Walla at sundown; delivered the mail at the quartermaster's office to Captain Kirkham; turned in four horses, saddles and bridles..April 17.-Drew fifteen days' rations, commencing on the 20th of
April, 1860, and ending on the 4th of May, 1860.
April 18.-Started out to the Touchette to the quartermaster's herd;
received four horses, and returned on the 19th; arrived in the garrison
at 1 p. in.; the balance of the day was passed in preparing to start in
the morning. Captain Kirkham gave us two pack-saddles.
April 20.-Received of the qwirtermaster a portion of the mail, and
went over to town, where Mr. Charles N. Mullan had the balance of it




154               MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
put up for us.  Started from town at 1   a..; reached the Touchet
at 31 p. m., and camped. This river had fallen three feet two inches
since the 16th.
April 21. —Started at 7 a. m.; reached the ferry on Snake river at
3J p m.; crossed two men and four horses; pushed on, on the Colville
wagon road, and camped at sundown on the Pelose, about nine miles
from Snake river.
April 22.-Started at 6 a. m.; travelled very slow, horses sarcely
went out of a walk; the ground was literally covered with rock;
camped at sundown at the upper end of a lake, (suppose it to be the
8pokane.)
April 23.-Started at 7 a. m.; at one we left the wagon road and
took a straight line for the fishery on Spokane river; travelled until
sundown; camped sixteen miles from the fishery.
April 24.-Started at 6 a. m.; reached Spokane river at 12.; found
one family here, packing up to leave for the camas ground; got
ferried across by one of the Indians; swam our horses; paid the
Indians six plugs of tobacco rather than to travel sixty miles further,
which we would have had to do, had we not crossed here. Here also we
discovered that Lieutenant Harker and Dr. Hammond with a party of
soldiers, had passed a few days previous on their way to the Clark's
Fork to establish a supply depot there for the north boundary commissioners. We pushed on twelve miles, and camped.
April 25.-Started at 51 a. m.; reached Antoine Plantes at 9 a..;
stopped and rested our horses. Antoine had gone to Colville with
Mr. Ogden a few days previous; we were also informed that Major
Owen passed yesterday, taking Spokane Garry as his guide. Travelling on we camped at sundown; excellent grass for our animals.
April 26.-Started at 7 a in.; reached Clark's Fork at 4 p. m. Here
Lieutenant Harker and his party are encamped; he said to me that
he had a wagon road cut from Spokane prairie to his camp on the
Clark's Fork, and said he expected a party to join him in a few days
from Walla-Walla; they were to travel on the Fort Walla-Walla and
Fort B~enton military wagon road as far as mile-post 150, thence to
the Spokane river, and soon as they would join him he would start
and cut a high water trail from Clark's Fork to Coutanie lake. The
lieutenant having no conveniences here by which we could cross, we
were necessarily compelled to hire an Indian and his canoe; he crossed
us in four trips. Paid him nine plugs of tobacco. Camped on the north
bank.
April 27.-Started at 6 a. in.; pushed on along the lake; at 5 p. m.
came to a large stream; here we met two men from Hell-Gate who
had just crossed; they said that their horses had to swim in crossing.
We took our packs off and carried them in front of us on our riding
horses; got all our things over dry; packed up again and moved on
three miles, and camped.
April 28.-Started at 7 a. in.; travelled very slowly; the trail somewhat rocky; no grass for our animals; moved on until dark, and
camped on the bank of the river.
April 29.-Started at sunrise; travelling Until noon1, same as yes



BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.               165
terday; from that time until night the trail began to improve, as also
the grass. Camped at sundown.
April 30.-Started at 61 a. m.; reached Vermillion creek at 11
a. m.; pushed on seven miles further and camped. Rained all night.
May 1.-Started at sunrise; reached Thompson's prairie at 101
a. m., and the crossing of Thompson's river at 11 a. m.; pushed on
to that well-known point called "Bad Rock," which we reached at
4 p m. Camped.
JMay 2.-Started at 7 a. nm.; passed that rocky point all right;
moved on at a tolerably quick gate; made Horse Plains at 10 a. m.
No Indians here at present. Moved to the upper end of the prairie to
look for wood enough to build us a raft, as it is our only hope now.
At the upper end, however, we were successful in finding driftwood
enough to build us a concern on which to cross, securing it well with
rope; piled all our things on board; pushed her in; went across,
but considerably down stream; got all our things across in good
order. Camped; excellent grass for our horses; swam the horses.
May 3.-Started at sunrise, and followed a small Indian trail, which
led over a very steep mountain and down to the Bitter Root river.
Some deep patches of snow on the north side of this mountain yet.
Reached Bitter Root river at 11I a. mn.; moved up the river to the
ferry, which point we reached at 4 p. m., and camped.
May 4.-Started at 8 a. m.; reached Cantonment Jordan at 3J
p. m.; delivered the mail; turned in to Lieutenant Lyon four horses,
two riding-saddles, two pack-saddles, all complete.
P. E. TOOHILL,
Expressman to Military Road Expedition.
SIR: I have forwarded, from time to time, reports of the expressman
carrying the mail, (for, as you may know, there is no mail-route in
this vicinity,) in order that the department, as well as myself, should
be truthfully informned of the condition of the road at all seasons of
the year, winter as well as summer, during seasons of freshets as
during seasons of fording. These have enabled and aided me in
forming not only correct views regarding the road, but have also
pointed out the contingencies to which it is liable, and the improvements yet needed before it can become a permanent line of travel.
I have had these reports made, also, in order that we should lose no
opportunity in collecting any and every information regarding the
route and the road, and in order that we may be enabled to speak
from well-founded data, and not, as heretofore, on this, as on many
other routes and lines, upon guesswork, conjecture, and surmise.
I am, sir, truly and respectfully, your obedient servant,
JOHN MULLAN,
First Lieut., in charge of Military Road Expedition.
Captain A. A. HUMPHREYS,
U. S. Top. Eng'rs, in charge of Office Exp. and Surveys,
War Department.




156                MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
Q.
CAMP ON TOUCHET RIVER, W. T., September 26, 1860.
SIR: Having been charged by you with the duty of exmining the
valley of the Hell-Gate river and the approaches to Mullan's Pass
of the Rocky mountains, together with the succeeding part of the line
from thence to Fort Benton, all along the line of the wagon roadas
to their practicability for a railroad line, I beg leave to present the
following as the results of my observations
From  Brown's, at the commencement of the   ell-Gate road, to
Observatory creek, a distance of eighteen miles, there is no difficulty
in locating a road, as the ground is of a very easy character, being a
gently rolling plateau elevated ten or twelve feet above the Bitter
Root and Hell-Gate rivers. Above this, again, there is another plateau
about one hundred feet high at the foot of the mountains, a point of
which (over which the wagon road passes,) projects out close to the
junction of the two rivers.
This plateau was thought at first to present a shorter and more
favorable line, but subsequent examinations proved it to be cut up by
deep ravines, and to have a very irregular surface, so that very high
grades and deep cuts and fills would be necessary for the whole distance. The lower plateau, next to the water, is intersected by three
small creeks, which would require bridges of from thirty to fifty feet.
Grades would not exceed twenty-five feet, except at the abovementioned projecting point, where a grade of fifty feet would be
necessary on either side. From thence to Observatory creek (four
miles) there would be a descending grade of twenty feet per mile. At
the creek an embankment of ten feet high on either side, and five
hundred feet in length altogether, with a bridge fifty feet in length,
would be necessary. From Observatory creek to the Big, Blackfoot
river, distance, seven miles, the line-would run on a plateau for about
one mile and a half, to a point where it breaks off, and the low river
bottom commences, which lasts for over half a mile. At the end of
this flat is a clay bluff one hundred feet high and five hundred feet
long, with a slope of 450 abutting directly on the river. It ends at a
small creek, the left bank of which is a plateau fifty feet high, which
extends to the Big Blackfoot river. An embankment with a grade
of fifty feet would be necessary across the flat, and a cut throug h the
bluff and twenty feet culvert across the creek, with one hundred and
fifty feet embankment. This would reach the plateau on the opposite
side, and from thence to the Bigl Blackfoot the grades and work would
be very light, as the surface of' the plateau is very regular. There is
a small creek to cross on the plateau. On the left bank of the river
there is also a plateau corresponding nearly in height to that on the
right bank. The best point for a bridge is not far from the foot of
the hills, and about half a mile up the river from its mouth, where
the plateaus are nearly of the same height and come down directly to
the river. The bridge would be about one hundred yards long and
elevated about forty feet above high-water mark. The Big Blackfoot




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA                 157
as a very swift current, with large boulders of rock in its bed. It
rises in  ih water about five to seven feet.
From the nature of the ground, passing from one large stream to
another with a projecting plateau between, and from the sinuous
course of the Hell-Gate afterentering the defile nearObservatory creek,
it is inevitable that there should be in the above distance a large
amount of curvature. Short tangents, however, can be obtained, and
none of the curves would be less than half a mile radius.
Within the next twenty-eight miles after leaving the Big Blackfoot
the waon road crosses the Hell-Gate river eleven times, besides several
sloughs and one large strea  called the South Branch, and, six miles
before the last crossing, passes over the neck of a spur projecting into
ithe river from the riht bank, called the "Beaver Dam."  All of the
crossings except the ast one are avoided in high water by trails which
pass a g the side hill, always on the right bank.  In high water
lthe banks of the river are not more than from two to fuur feet above
the water. Between each of the crossings there is a fiat, of which
those on the right bank are generally the longest and most elevated,
some of them having plateaus of from ten to twenty feet high. The
best location for a railroad, in my opinion, would be along these hillsides, where the trails are, so as to avoid the numerous crossings and
sloughs. About one-third would be in rock cutting and loose rock,
when retainingalls would be necessary.  The whole distance to be
thus worked would be about eight miles. Some projecting points
would require to be cut through, making short tunnels of from fifty
to two hundred feet. These would be culverts and embankments over
some three or four small creeks. Some of the work, particularly on
the first and last of the trails, would be very heavy, but occur at
points where there are several crossings and sloughs. These hill-sides
are well formed to admit curves, -none of which would be sharp, and
the general grade would not exceed forty feet. A tunnel of about
three hundred yards would be necessary through the spur called the
Beaver Dam.
It should be remarked here that up to the last crossing the left bank
of the stream is very rocky and precipitous, and much less favorable
in every respect than the right bank, particularly at the crossings.
Beyond the last crossing the right bank becomes very unfavorable,
the hill-sides being very rocky and precipitous for several miles.
About half a mile above a spur projects out from the left bank, which
forms a rocky and narrow cai'ion, through which the river passes for
about half a mile. Beyond this the left bank is flat and very favorable
for the -next ten miles. The line would pass the river at the last
crossing with a bridge of about 80 yards length, and a tunnel would
be required of about 700 yard-s through the spur. This would give a
much straighter line than going round by the river, and would be
very little more work, if any. The fiat beyond this on the left bank
is generally broad, with only one or two points where grades exceeding
40 feet would be required, and bridges over a few small sloughs and
creeks, not exceeding six in number nor over 80 feet in length. The
excavation and embankment would be very light, and many straight
lines could be obtained; no curves short of' one-half mile radius.




158                MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
Eleven miles above the spur the bluffs, on both sides, come down
close to the river forming a canon, which extends up the river for some
four or five miles. The left bank is very rocky and steep next the
river, whilst the right bank is much more favorable with but few
rocky points. The best location would be to cross the stream below
the entrance of the cainon bridge, 70 yards long, and keep entirely on
the right bank. At the upper end the valley opens out, and there
are flats on both sides. For the next 30 miles the line would still
continue on the right bank, as it would be straighter and less work
than on the left, besides avoiding another crossing of the river and
bridging Flint and Benetzi's creeks. The latter part of the distance
would be undulating, and there would be about one and a half mile
of deep grading, but not much rock. Grades not higher anywhere
than 50 feet, and curves of smaller radius than quarter of a mile; a
few small creeks would need bridging, not exceeding 40 feet in length.
At the end of this portion of the line, and nearly at the junction of
the Little Blackfoot and Deer Lodge rivers, (which frmthe Hell-Gate,)
there is a projecting mountain spur on the right bank. This is very
rocky, particularly upon the river, and is lowest where the wagon road
crosses. It is about half a mile across. It might be overcome by grades
of 60 feet for about three miles on either side, but on account of the
ground beyond it would perhaps be better to tunnel it.
Beyond this the line would follow the course of the Little Blackfoot
river. This stream is not more than 20 yards wide at any place. Its
banks are generally low, and its course very winding. About two
miles above the junction is the entrance of a caiion, through which
the river runs for at least 10 miles. There are three points where it
is very narrow with rocks on either side; between these, howeve r, the
cafion widens out considerably, and there are flats on either side of
the creek. At the upper end the creek runs between perpendicular
walls of' rock for at least a mile. The last location, considering the
irregular formation of the cainon and to avoid many sharp curves,
would be to locate the line entirely in the valley, crossing the stream
as often as may be necessary. Of these crossings, I think there would
be about eight. By this means short tangents could be obtained, and
there would be no curves of less than quarter of a mile radius. The
grades would not exceed 40 feet per mile. Beyond the ca~iion the
valley of the river opens out, and presents no difficulty as far as the
forks of the stream. The line would take the left bank for about six
miles, crossing at'a favorable point where the banks are high, and
would then'take the right bank for five miles to the forks of the
stream, which are two in number, the northern and southern branches.
In this distance the work generally would~be light.
The northern branch is 0the one which would be taken by the line,
~CMullan's Pass" being at the head of it. The distance to it from.
the forks is about seven miles. The stream is very small, not being
more than 15 feet wide at its mouth; the upper part of the valley is
wider than the lower portion, and the whole forms a very easy and.
gradual approach to the pass, which is very low and easy of passage
on both sides. From the forks to the divide there would be a general
grade of' not more than 60 feet to the mile, most of which would be




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                159
side-ill excavation without much rock, for which the right bank is
the most favorable, and probably about three-quarters of a mile of
embankment with an average height of 15 feet. There would be
three crossings of the stream, and the line would be a very straight
one.
~~~Th~~de tunnel through the divide would not exceed a mile in length,
with a descending grade of 70 feet to the opposite side, where the Big
Prickly Pear, a branch of the Missouri, heads. The valley of this
stream is narrow, but without sharp bends; the hills are of limestone,
and would not be difficult to work. The left bank is the most favorable.  The le would follow down on this side for about nine miles
to Silver creek, a branch coming in from the north. There would be
one caion in this distance, where the work would be very heavy for
about three-quarters of a mile. From the divide the general grade
would be about 80 fet for about three miles, and then about 60 feet.
The direction east, or as far as Silver creek, where it turns to the
northeast. The line would then proceed up Silver creek to the head
of one of its branches over to the waters of Little Prickly Pear creek.
These are all in thesame valley, and the divide between them is very
low. This valley is, however, surrounded by high rocky hills. This
portion othe line would be easy to work, with but little rock, and no
grade higher than 50 feet. From the point where the line strikes the
main branch of the Little Prickly Pear it would follow this stream
down to the point where the wagon road leaves it within a mile and
a alfofthe Missouri, a distance of 19 or 20 miles.  This section would
be the most difficult and expensive portion of the line, as the creek
runs mostly through a succession of narrow and winding caiiions with
precipitous rock on both sides. The stream itself is very crooked, and
would require a very large number of bridges, (average length, 40
feet,) and very sharp curves, as well as embankments in places to
raise the line above the level of high water. The grade would be a
descending one of' about 45 feet until within about tour miles of the
wagon road, where it would take the left hand side hill in order to
reach the level of the high rolling ground which extends for 16 miles
between the Little Prickly Pear and Dearborn rivers.
This section is elevated about 200 feet in its'highest part above the
level of the two rivers, and is intersected by some five or six ravines
running down to the Missouri river, making a very rough and broken
country. The line would cross these ravines, and the work would be
very heavy, with high grades. There would, however, be no sharp
curves, and but little rock cutting At the Dearborn river there would
be an embankment or trestle-works 60 feet high for about one-eighth
of a mile, and bridge 120 feet long, to the left bank, which is the edge
of a plateau. From thence the line would cross by a gentle ravine to
the valley of Beaver creek, acros,-,s which there would be an embankment 15 feet high for one-quarter of a mile with bridge 50 feet across
the creek, and take the lett bank of the creek and its northeast branch
to ts'head, and cross over to Bird-tail Rock creek, down which it
would follow to near its junction with Crown Butte creek. The line
would then follow down this latter creek some three miles, in order
to avoid a rocky spur, and would then cross it and pass to the left of




160               MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
the butte known as the Big Knee to Sun river; the distance from the
Dearborn would be 33 miles. The work would be nearly all in gravelly
earth, except, perhaps, in crossing the divide from Beaver creek to
Bird-tail Rock creek, when rock would probably be found.   he line
would be crooked, but the work would be generally light, and the
maximum grade not exceed 50 feet per mile. The approach to Sun
river is very good, and about two or three miles above the present
Indian agency the bridge over the river would be about 200 feet long.
From Sun river to Fort Benton there extends a hih rolling plateau.
At Sun river where the road crosses it is about 100 feet hih and it
afterwards rises by steps to the height of probably 500 feet. It is
entirely destitute of timber, and has but little water. The line by
which I passed over it would not be the railroad line, and I had no
time to make any side explorations, as I was attending to the odometer
line during the day, and also made the greater portion of the march
by night. As far as I went down Sun river (eight miles) there exists
no difficulty in the way of a railroad.
Material for the construction of a railroad can be found generally
close at hand all along the line of the road, more particularly on the
Hell-Gate river, and near the pass on both sides. There is an abundance of pine timber on the surrounding mountains, and stone of
suitable quality lor masonry, and which could be easily dressed.
There is abundance of limestone at the divide, the main ridge of which
seems to be. entirely composed of it.
I have endeavored in the above report to represent the difficulties
and amount of work on the various parts of the line as well as I am
able to judge of them by observation, unassisted by instruments. The
grades and amount; of work wherever specified are spoken of in the
maximum.
In conclusion, I would remark that whilst I regard the line of
Hell-Gate, by "IMullan's Pass" as eminently practicable and easy for
railroad purposes, notwithstanding a few difficult points, it would
require a much more extended exploration and survey to determine
the best line of location on the Missouri side. The line along the
Missouri river would require to be examined, in order to find if possible an easier location than that by Little Prickly Pear creek. I had
an opportunity of examining a portion of this line, from the mouth
of the Little Prickly Pear to the mouth of Dearborn river, and found
it much more favorable as regards grades and curves and generally
in the character of ground, except near the mouth of Dearborn river,
where for about three miles it was very rocky.
I ama, sir, with much respect, your obedient servant,
W. W. DE LACY,
Lieut. JOHN MULLAN, U. S. -A.,I                 Chief Eyngineer.
In charge of Military Road Expedition.




BENTON TO FOr WALLA-WALLA                   16 1
R.
CAMP AT NEW FORT WALLA-WALLA,
October 12, 1860.
SiR: The following report of an exploration for a line for a wagon
road from  the Ceur d'Alne Mission, via the outlet of the Coeur
d'Alne lake, to Antoine Plante's on the Coeur d'Alene prairie, at the
crossing of the Spokane river, and a reconnaissance thence, via what
is known as Mix's road to Snake river, is respectfully submitted for
your consideration.
In obedience to your verbal instructions of the 13th of September,
I left the Mission on the morning of the 14th and proceeded as far as
the Wolf's Lodge prairie, which is the first camp ground from the
Mission on the line of the Spokane trail. The Wolf's Lodge is a
prairie a half mile in length and a quarter mile ill width, with a fine
clear stream fifteen feet wide and two deep, flowing through the eastern and northern portion of it. This stream is lined with willows,
the prairie is covered with excellent grass, and is enclosed by open
pine timer.  Its distance from  the MIssion by the trail is about 18
miles. Here I camped, and on the morning of the 15th of September started with Bazil, my Indian guide, to examine on foot the line
from the prairie to the Mission.
As it is impracticable to follow the line of the trail, leading, as it
does, over high steep hills, rocky in many places, covered with fallen
timber, and also making ascents and descents so steep as to endanger
even a rider, the only way therefore in which a road can be had is to
follow the lines of the water-courses in the valleys below the trail, and
work such places in side-hill excavation as are rendered. otherwise impassable for a wagon road.
After leaving the trail, at the east end of the Wolf's Lodge, where
it first takes the side hill, we passed through pine and fir timber for
a hundred yards. when we entered a small prairie, 200 feet in diameter,
after passing which there are no more prairie openings. We followed
near the foot of the hills to the north, and fbr the first mile and a
quarter passed through pine and fir of the size usually seen in the
wooded country on the mountains near the Mission, the trees being
from 80 to 115( feet in height and from 8 to 20 inches in diameter.
There is an old Indian trail for part of this distance. We then
turned to the northward, crossed a dry. water-run and ascended along
the backbone of' a spur for a quarter of a mile to a saddle of about
200 feet in height. The ground was strewn with fallen timber, which
covered the ground in every direction, rendering our progress slow
and laborious. In 900 feet more made the descent from this saddle,
which is somewhat steep on the east, but will not require doubling
teams. After reaching the foot of this saddle, which I will designate
as No. 1, the,, line for the next mile and a half turns more to the
north and follows up the narrow valley of a small stream, crossing
from time to time as may be necessary. The bed of this stream is of
hard gravel; one thousand feet of light side-hill grading will have to
be dune to pass through a narrow defile made by the passage of this
II. Ex. Doc. 44    l11




162                MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
stream through a spur of' the mountain from the southwest, and for a
quarter of a mile more granite boulders of from one to two feet in diameter will have to be removed in order to allow the easy passage
of wagons.  The line strikes the trail aout a mile east ofsaddle No.
1, and follows its general course for half a mile, when it leaves it to
the north and ascends an open ravine, narrow at the bottom and very
much obstructed with fallen timber, which brings us to saddle No. 2,
by a good ascent of a quarter of a mile in length and 200 feet high.
The descent to the east here is steep and will have to be modified by
grading, unless a natural descent be found on the spurs leading to the
south.  A  valley is reached in the bottom of a stee  ravine, along
which the road will pass, and in a mile and a half ascend to a third
saddle, which will be reached by a long and not very steep ascent of
three hundred feet in height.
This distance of five and a half miles is difficult. The ground is
covered with fallen timber, which is crossed and tumbled in every direction, rendering progress exceedingly difficult. The ascentsand descents to these three saddles are steep, not sufficiently so, however, as
to require double teaming. rt will not be possible to find any other
practicable line than the one explored, as the mountain ridges extend
in a direction parallel with the course travelled, and rise to a height
of trom one to two thousand feet. Between the first and second saddles there are two or three streams, which come from this range, and
are crossed near their mouths by the line of the road location. The
ground is hard and solid, being composed ofn gravel and vegetable
mould, and the streams are never of.sufficient size to render them impassable, and in the f'all are inearly dry.
Descending from the third saddle by a very good slope to the valley,
200 feet below, we reach that portion of the line which is most difficult and will cost much labor in the process of construction. In the
first mile, 1,400 feet in length will have to be graded with the cross
section. This bring O'to the first caiion, where the stream flowing f'roml
saddle No. 3 enters-a canlon which is from 25 to 50 feet in width,
walled with perpendicular rock some 20 to 30 feet in height. Here,
for one mile, the road wilt have to be cut in earth and rock excavation
along the side of a spur, with a transverse slope of' 400; advantage
can be taken of the formation of the ground so as to avoid any very
severe work except for short distances. After passing this we can
again descend to the valley of the stream, follow on its left bank for
200 yards, when we cross a small tributary from the north and come
to the second caflon, similar in its character to the -first; the stream
winds through it with a narrow alder bottom, alternately forming the
banks as the creek turns from side to side in its descent. This cai'ion
is two and a half' miles in length, and will be avoided by side-hill excavation for that distance. The work on this section will be severe,
and if' the rock proves to be hard when reached may have to be
worked out by blasting. It outcrops in many places, especially on
the points of spurs, and has a transverse slope from 20' to 30'.
After passing the second caiion the ravine opens out by the receding
of the mountain spurs, and a cedar swamp begins, which continues
for three and a halt' miles. The spring can only determine whether




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                 163
git is best to locate the road throuh this, which has heretofore proved
to be objectionable ground. At the time when I passed over it, it
was good and dry. The huge cedars, from three to eight feet in
diameter, towered above, and their interlaced branches hardly admitted
Lthe sun's rays. If this is found hard in spring, but little work
will be required to pass through, as the trees grow sufficiently wide
apart to allow the passage of a wagon conveniently. We crossed two
large dry water-courses, with gravel bottoms, which were four feet
below the level of the surrounding ground. A more detailed examination may show that a line may be had by keeping around the foot
of the spurs, and doing occasional grading at points where required,
thereb avoiding this long stretch of ground, which is soft and miry.
After leaving this cedar swanp we struck good pine timber, and
clambered over and between fallen trees for a quarter of a mile, when
we reached a spur with a stream at its base. Here a crossing may be
made, but it would be best to grade three hundred feet around it, and
then continue for nearly a mile over the same kind of ground to a
second spur, around the base of which the line would be graded for
one thousand feet.  Here the line leaves its general southeast course
and deflects towards the east for a short distance, when it again
resumes its general direction. At the point of this spur we leave the
main valley of the creek and follow up a small tributary, to shorten
distance. I will here note a small cone, about fifty feet high, which
forms a landmark, and round the western base of which the line
passes.  In a mile we ascended by an easy grale to a low saddle or
ridge, and then descended as easily to the east, and after passing over
good ground for a mile and three-quarters reached the open prairie,
one and a half mile from the Mission.
I regret that I could not make this examination as thoroughly as
I desired. My guide, the Indian Bazil, had recently broken his
collar-bone, and the fracture was not even dressed, so that he was
unable to cary our blankets and provision on his back. This work,
devolved, therefore., upon myself;, in addition to my other duties; and
it was not possible for me, thus encumbered, to examine in person the
country in the vicinity of the line. The only place requiring further
examination is the distance around the Cedar swamp of three and a
half miles, at the base of the spurs.
I estimate that eighteen days' work of fifty men will be, required to
cut and clear the road from the Mission prairie to the Wolf's Lodge;
and for the gradirnq, if the rock proves compact in the side-hill work
referred to, a month, or even six weeks, would not be too large an
allowance for the time which fifty maen would occupy in working it.
There are at least four and a quarter miles of grading required to
avoid the two caflons of the creek and the other points noted in the
foreg~oingr. The distance estimated by the line travelled is seventeent
miles.
Having finished this portion of the exploration I returned to the
Wolf's Lodge, and on the 21st proceeded to examine the line to the
outlet of the Cceur d'Ale'ne lake. For the first two miles and threequarters the line would follow the general direction of the trail, by
taking advantage of the ravines to the south in gamining the ascent of




164                 MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
three hundred feet to a saddle. This ascent is made in the first mile
and three-quarters. A good descent can be found from this saddle to
the valley of a small creek in a mile more, although it will have two
or three steep grades in that distance.  After crossing this stream
which flows through a valley of nearly a quarter of a mile in width,
the trail winds up the steep side of a mountain, which is nearly  ve
hundred feet high, and impracticable at that point as an ascent for a
road. Alter gaining this elevation the ground is nearly level for the
next three and a quarter miles, with the exception of three ravines,
which are crossed by the trail. The first of these occurs a mile and
three quarters west of the creek, and is brad and level; width three
hundred feet. This will be subsequently refrred to as the third
ravine.  The other two occur in one-half and three-quarter mile
further on; are steep and narrow, coming to a line at the bottom,
fifty feet below the general surface ofthe ground, presenting a serious
obstacle to the passage of a road, without resorting to heavy bridging
and trestle work. The descent to the lake's shore is made by a sharp
pitch of four hundred and fifty feet.
Having heard of Antoine Plante as a man who, from is long
residence in this neighborhood, was well acquainted with it, I deemed
it best to proceed to his place and secure his services as guide, so as
to be able to find and examine a line of which the Indians have spoken,
leading direct from the Wolf's Lodge to the lake, and giving good
ascents and descents, in place of the steep pitches which occur on the
line of the trail. Accordingly, I proceeded to the outlet of the Ceur
d'Al.ne lake-distant four miles from the foot of the mountain-and
then followed down the Spokane river, on the line of the trail, for
six miles, when we encamped and remained a day to examine the
Little Falls of the Spokane, concerning which a report and sketch is
herewith submitted.
Having finished this examination, I started on the 23d, and in two
miles left the open pine timber through which I had travelled since
leaving the Wolt's Lodge, and entered upon the Cieur d' Alhne prairie,
which stretched a level plain as far as the eye could reach to the
northeast, towards the Pend d'Oreille. This prairie is bounded by
isolated ranges of mountains, which, with their spurs timbered fromt
base to summ~it, form apleasing, contrast to the prairie covered with
its dry and browned grass. The Spokane river flows through and
near the southern end of the,jw~airie in a channel some thirty feet
below the general level of the country. The soil is gravelly and not
suited for tiirming purposes until you cross the Spokane, after which,
as I am informed by Antoine Plante, the soil is fertile. After travelling nine miles across the prairie, we reached the foot of the mountains
on the west, along which we proceeded for three miles, when we
arrived at Antoine Plante's.
On the 24th I started back with Antoine to complete the examination of the line from. the lake to the Wolf's Lodge. We followed
the trail as far as the mouth -of the Ccour d'Ale'ne lake, (head of the
Spokane river,) and then -struck to the east through the open timber
for four miles, until we were stopped by a lake a mile in length and
half a mile wide, whose existence was not before knowvn. This lake




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                165
is enclosed on its northern, southern, and eastern sides by high, steeplysloping, rocky mountain spurs, which forbid the passage of a road on
any other line than that in the vicinity of the trail. Having satisfied
ourselves of this, we followed down the western side of this lake, and
in a quarter of a mile reached the shore of the Coeur d'Alene lake,
where we encamped, and on the morning of the 25th proceeded to
examine a ravine which leaves the trail to the south, and affords an
ascent, somewhat steep in places, of a mile and a half in length to
the summit of the last mountain over which the trail passes before
reaching the lake. The ascent in this distance is not far from 1,000
feet, and will afford a road without any very heavy work-one, however, which will require double teaming to make the ascent. The
descent on the east to the third ravine is good, but to improve it may
require 300 feet of light side-hill excavation in earth. The ascent of
fifty feet to the plateau east of this ravine can be made by side-hill
grading for 350 feet, if a natural one cannot be found on further examination. A couple of hundred yards from the top of this plateau we
again left the trail and struck the head of a ravine, down which we
followed for a mile and a half to the valley of the creek, entirely
avoiding the steep grade previously referred to. This ravine is caionlike in many places, its bottom is covered with a growth of generally
small fir trees, and is somewhat obstructed with fallen timber. It is
only wide enough to allow the comfortable passage of a wagon in
many places, say fifteen to twety feet wide. This is the only ravine
which can be taken advantage of to make the descent, and, if not
used, side-hill excavation, part in rock, must be resorted to foar at least
a mile, to make a practicable grade. The ravine debouches a few
yards from. the trail to the north. After crossing the creek the ground
is less difficult, and the only obstacles are those previously noted.
Antoine Plante informed me that the snow disappeared from these
mountains in May, there bein g perhaps a little left in deep ravines
protected from the sun; its average depth during mid-winter is stated
not to exceed two feet. On the Occur d'Ale~ne prairie there is but
little or no snow, the Indians always resorting to it as a common wintering ground for their horses and cattle.
The line thus explored from the lake to the third ravine is objectionable on account of its steep grades, which can only be obviated by a
mile and a third of heavy grading along the face of the mountain
forming the eastern shore of the lake., to the third ravine., where it can
be located for the remainder of the distance to the Wolf's Lodge by
following the line of the trail as before indicated. As there will be
but little cutting to be done through this open timbered region, I consider a month's work of' fifty men as abundant for making a wagon
road from the head of the Spokane to the Wolf' s Lodge, and a more
careful examination may show a line which can be rendered practicable in one-half the time.
We returned to Antoine Plante's and rested a day, before resuming
our march upon the line known as Mix's road, towards Snake river.
My guide, Antoine Plante, is a man over fifty years of age. He is
a half-breed, his father being, a Canadian and his mother a Gros
Ventre.  He has resided for thirty years on this side of the Rocky




166                MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
mountains, has travelled all over the country up to the headwaters of
the Columbia, in the British possessions, and down even into California. He has resided upon the Coeur d'Ale prairie for sixteen years,
and has a wife and several children. His old house having beeburned
in Colonel Wright's campaign, in 1858, he has erected a new one out
of hewn timber dovetailed together, with a verandah and steps in front,
and window sashes neatly painted and glazed. He has a fine enclosure of about fifteen acres, which has evidently yielded a good crop.
A small house was filled to the eaveswith sheaves of wheat, bunches
of corn with full and yellow ears were drying out in the sun, potatoes, turnips, beets, onions, &c., were peeping from out the ground,
and the fat animals around and within the enclosure showed the evidences of good living. He has every preparation made for enclosing
ten acres more, which he intends to sow in wheat this fall.
Just below his house is the ferry of the Spokane, where he has
built a ferry boat capable of carrying a loaded waon and its cattle.
The river here is one hundred and twenty-five feet wide, and about
eight feet deep. It is, however, fordable six miles above.
We crossed the river on the morning of the 27th September and
resumed our march. Travelled for five miles over level prairie, and
then entered open timber, which continued for one mile and a half,
when we entered a prairie skirting around the spurs of the mountain
range, forming the western boundary of the Ceur d'Alne lake; in
two miles and a half more reached a small stream, which sinks just
above the crossing of the road. Here is a good camp round, with
sufficient water for stock, and cotton-wood for fuel. Continued for
one mile and a half over good level ground, when the road makes a
detour to the left, passes down a ravine, then turns to the right, and
continues for a mile on a level plateau, when it, descends one hundred
feet to the Camnas Prairie creek, on the Ned-l-hwad-lk-distance twelve
miles from the crossing of the Spokane. Road crosses this stream,
which is now twenty feet wide, and five to twelve inches deep, but at
high water its width' is fifty feet; followed up its left bank throug h
pine and fir timber for a quarter of a mile, when the road makes a
steep ascent of ninety feet, which requires double teaming, (needs
grading to improve it.) Road thence takes an easy plateau through
strips of 8mall Pines and open timber, and rises gently towards the
west. Five miles from the Ned-l-hwad-lk reached a series of marshy
prairies, which are the headwaters of the Ciel-ciel-pow-vet-sin. The
road winds around over good ground, avoiding marshy places, passing
through strips; of small pines for the next six miles, when it goes over
slightly rolling prairie, and in nine miles more joins the military
road one mile east of its crossing of the Ciel-ciel-pow-vet-sin. In this
distance of twenty-one miles, between the Camnas Prairie and Ciel-cielpow-vet-sin creeks, there is no water duritig the autumn, but there is
every indication of an abundance at intervals of every few miles in
the marshy bottoms, which occur frequently along the road. Timber
is to be had everywhere.
Leaving the military road some two miles west of the Ciel-ciel-powvet-siu, we turned more to the west, following a succession of alkaline
bottoms, which evidently have. water in them in spring and early




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                167
summer. Infive miles passed a landmark, consisting of a tall pine,
with a long green cone at its top. Called this the mistletoe pine. After
passing this tree, followed a basaltic basin with alkaline bottoms for
three miles to the Three Buttes, between which the road passes.
These buttes form prominent landmarks, and from them westward we
see no more   e timber. After travelling a mile and a half from the
Three Buttes, descended to a valley where a road to a camp ground
turns off to the west. Ascended to a plateau in a mile and threequarte, and travelled along at the base of a prairie plateau seventyfive feet high. Passed some water amongst some cotton-wood bushes
in two miles and three-quarters more. The tracks of wagons and
remnants of camp fires indicate this as an old camp ground. Seventeen miles from the Ciel-ciel-pow-vet-sin is a good camp ground. A
spring flows from out the base of the upper plateau, yielding sufficient
water for stock. Wood consists of willows, but the supply would be
exhausted in a few seasons. A mile below this point I noticed an old
wagon road leading to the north, and passing into the pedrigal
region, which we see extending for some eight or ten miles to the
westward of the road.
Seven miles from the spring last mentioned we passed another old
camping ground, and in seven miles and one-quarter more reached
the Aspen camp of Colonel Wright, on his way up the Spokane, in
in August, 1858. The entire line thus far is remarkably level, and
affords an excellent road. No work will be required between this
point and the Ciel-ciel-pow-vet-sin. In this distance of thirty-one
miles, the only camping ground at present available for wagon trains
is the spring fourteen miles northeast of the Aspen camp, giving a
distance of' seventeen miles thence to the Ciel-ciel-pow-vet-sin. In
spring and summer there is, doubtless, water at the other points
noted as old camp grounds.
Leaving the Aspen camp in seven iniles, reached a spring, and in
an eighth more a secondgvn  abundant water for animals, with
willows and cotton-wood for fuel. Six miles further are two springs,
which, it' cleared out, would afford sufficient water for camping purposes. In two miles further reached a valley an eighth of a mile
wide, which has a small water-course (now dry) passing down it.
Followed this for four miles, where it debouches into the valley of
Cow creek. Here we entered the travelled road leading from Walla.
Walla to Colville. From the Aspen camip to Cow creek, 19.8 miles
by odometre measurement, the roal follows a series of alkaline bottoms and the valley last referred to, p)assing over good ground. The
crossings of tne dry water-course in the valley only will require a few
hours work.
The Colville road, going towards Snake river, follows down the
valley of Cow creek for about two miles, when it ascends to the upper
plateau three hundred feet, and then continues along a valley for five
miles, when it ascends a steep hilt five hundred feet high; continues
two miles over a ridge, and in two more reaches the Pelouse, which
is a general camping ground at this point, although-wood is scarce,
and in the latter part of summer and lall the grass becomes eaten off




168                MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
for miles around. By driving across the river an abundance of grass
is found close at hand
From this point to Snake river, twelve miles, the road ascends to a
plateau three hundred feet high, and then continues until within a
mile and a half of Snake river, when it descends by a couple of steep
pitches through sandy ground to the river banks. This distance of
twenty-three miles between Snake river and Cow creek is the worst
portion of the road, but is continually travelled by the teams supplying Colville, Harney depot, and the northwest boundary commission.
Snake river at the crossing is four hundred yards wide, and the
flying ferry, iunning on a three-inch wire rope, serves as a very
secure and speedy communication from bank to bank.
Having thus terminated my reconnaissance, the above report is
respectfully submitted by your obedient servant,
W. W. JOHNSON,. E., &c.
Lieutenant JOHN MULLAN, U. S. A.,
In charge of Fort Walla- Walla and Fort Bentoni. Road Ex.
Respectfully submitted to Captain A. A. Hmphreys, United States
topographical engineers, War Department.
JOHN MULLAN,
First Lieut. 2d Artillery, in charge of  ilitary Road Exp.
CAMP AT FORT WALLA-WALLA, W. T., October 26, 1860.
S.
CAMP AT NEW FORT WALLA-WALLA,
October 20, 1860.
SIR: I have the honor to present the following report of an examination of the Little Falls of' the Spokane, made by me on the 22d of
September last, in connexion with a reconnaissance from. the Cceur
d'Aie'ne Mission, via Antoine Plante's to Snake river, in compliance
to your instructions oft'te 13th ultimo.
The Spokane, river flows from the Cceur d'Ale'ne lake, and is a
stream of fr omn 150 to 250 feet in width. Its present level is about
15 feet below its banks, and the water is shallow. It is fordable at
the -first -rapids, which are some four miles below th e lake, whence to
the Little Falls, a distance of four miles more, the stream flows over a
succession of' light gravelly rapids, from one to three-quarters of a
mile apart. At the Little Falls, eight miles below the lake, the river
has forced its way through a mass of granite rock 90 feet in height
and 900 feet long. The channel through. this rock being about 60
feet wide, passing straight in its course, with perpendicular walls on
each side. The left bank, at the falls, is a wall of from. 80 to 90 feet
high above thq water, while thc right is perpendicular for about 15
feet, when it breaks off and rises less precipitously to a height of from.
30 to 40 feet above water level. The stream enters this channel, or




BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                169
caonby a fissure F, (see accompanying sketch,) about eight feet
wide between the rock island E and the projecting rock G. A small
stream forces its way through an opening blocked up by the boulders
1  2 3 4.  These streams unite below  the island E.  The basin
above the falls is about 140 feet wide and from 25 to 30 feet deep,
forming a reservoir, which discharges itself through the fissure F, the
orifice being 8 feet wide by 10 deep. This empties into a narrow
rocky channel, which is about 15 feet below the level of the basin
above. The water rushes in foam through this channel, which is
about 30 feet wide, and in 100 feet falls some 15 or 20 feet more over
large boulders. The stream thence is confined in the canon of 60 feet
width, and flows through it with a more gentle current for about
600feet, when it debouches into a basin about 200 feet in diameter,
whence it flows over a succession of light gravelly rapids, as before,
towards the Columbia.
~~~~~~Th~e ordinary rise of water above the falls is 15 feet, but the highest
flod-mark is some 25 feet above the present level.  At high water
the rocks H and I, forming the caion of the river, become islands;
for the water, after rising 8 feet, flows around on either side, having
a channel 150 feet wide, now dry, on the left bank, at the southern
foot of the granite rock I, and on the right bank a channel of 50 to
the north of the rock H.  The general cross section will show the
appearance of the stream at high water.
If the rock island E, which is 60 feet long and 15 feet in height,
with a mean width of 10 feet, the boulders 1, 2, 3, 4, and the low
rock G, (see section A B,) be removed, the river would have as free a
channel at low water as it now has after having risen five feet; and
the conclusion is, that the water being thus allowed to pass off rapidly
when -it first rises, and the channel increasing in dimensions with the
rise of the river, sufficient clearance will be had to prevent the great
rise to which the river and lake are now subject, and relieve the, valu.able and extensive lands bordering the lower Cceur d'Ale~ne and St.
Joseph's rivers from that overflow which at present renders them
impassable and Unfit for agricultural or other purposes until late in,
the summer. The amount of land so reclaimed would be about fifty
square miles, or an area of 32,000 acres, all of which is well adaptedboth by soil and climate to all the purposes of cultivation.
It is estimated that an appropriation of $5,000 would be sufficient to
defray all the expenses of the work.
The above is respectfully submitted for your consideration by yourobedient servant,
W. W. JOHNSON, 0. E., &c.
Lieutenant JOHN MULLAN, U. S. A.,
In charge o] Fort J1'alla- Walla and Fort Benton Mil. Road Exp.




170                MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT
The foregoing throws additional light upon the subject of the
removal of the higher Spokane, with a view of improving the line of
the military road via the valleys of the St. Joseph's and Cceur
d'Alene, to which I have several times called the attention of the
department, being sanguine in the belief that not only will the road
be much improved, but a valuable tract of 32,000 acres of beautiful
soil thus reclaimed. if it be within the legitimate province of the department to take any action in the matter, I trust the subject may be
brought before Congress in connexion with our present operations.
JOHN MULLAN,
1st Lieutenant 2d Artillery.
CAMP AT WALLA-WALLA, W. T., October 31, 1860.
T.
The following is a statement of the character and amount of' work
performed on the military road from Fort Walla-Walla to Fort Benton,
under direction of Lieutenant John Mullan, U. S. A., during the
summer and fall of 1859.
From Fort Wal]a-Walla to Snake river, at the mouth of the Tkanon, distance forty-nine miles, the road passes over the natural
surface of the ground. Soil is clayey. High rolling hills occur on
the line of the road, and their summits are gained by easy ascents.
Two streams occur in this distance which will require bridging, viz:
the Dry and Touchet creeks. Length of bridges required, seventy-five
feet each.
Snake river is crossed by a ferry-boat. Width of stream, is a quarter
of a mile. The ascent from Snake river to the high plateau table
land is steep, but cannot be avoided. It is easily overcome by doubling
teamis.
From Snake river to the St. Joseph's river, near its entrance to the
Ccur d'Ale'ne lake, a distance of one hundred and nineteen and fivetenths miles, the road passes for sixty-three miles over soil of the same
character as before mentioned, through a gently rolling prairie region,
bordered by high plateaus. The remainder of this (listance, fifty-six
and five-tenths miles, is through open pine timber, with gravelly soil.
The road, on nearing the St. Joseph's, was cut through timber for some
six miles, and was graded, for a hundred feet, through limestone rock.
The descent to the valley of the St. Joseph's is made along the
backbone of a spur of the mountain range, and a substantial bridge,
sixty feet long, was thrown across a slough or branch of' the river.
A flatboat, capable of transporting a loaded wagon and four yoke of
cattle, was built, and remains at the crossing of' this river for the use
of the subseqnent trains. A low, level flat exists for about six miles
along the St. Joseph's river, across which wagons cannot pass until
towards the middle of'July.  Means for obviating this will be hereafter pointed out. From the St. Joseph's to the Cceur d'Ale'ne river,
distance ten and eight-tenths miles, the road lies over a gravelly rolling
plateau, covered with open timber, through which the road was cut




ENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA.                 171
and cleared, to obtain the most direct line. The rise to this plateau
is easy, and the descent to the valley of the Cceur d'Alene river was
accomplished by side-hill grading, some ten thousand cubic yards of
excavation being done at this point. The flats bordering the Coeur
d'Alne river are followed up for ten miles, and are subject to the same
overflow as those of the St. Joseph's. This is caused by the backing
up of the Cour d'Alne lake, its outlet, the Spokane river, being too
small to admit of the rapid passage of the large body of water created
by the melting snows of the mountains, which, from a very large extent of country, are drained into the lake by these two rivers. It is
deemed practicable to enlarge this opening at the falls of the Spokane
river by blasting, so that the waters of the lake and rivers will be
lowered some three feet, and a very beneficial result will also ensue to
the Indian tribes, by allowing the salmon to enter these waters and
add to the stores oftheir now scanty and precarious subsistence. The
amount of work required for this purpose cannot now be stated, but
it is deemed to be practicable at no very great outlay.
From the first crossing of the Cceur d'Alene river, nine miles below
the Mission to the camp of party, fifty-eight miles east of the Mission,
the road has been constructed through a heavily-timbered region up
the valley of the Ceur d'Alne river, across the divide of the Cceur
d'Alne mountains, and down the valley of the St. Regis Borgia river,
to within thirteen miles of the Bitter Root river. The soil is gravelly.
Nearly'One hundred crossings have been made of both rivers, which
must be bridged in order to render the road passable at all seasons of
the year. High water lasts from. the beginning of May to the middle
or end of June, during which time travel is suspended. All of these
crossings can be bridged without difficulty. The banks are high, and
timber is abundant as well as convenient. The average length of
these bridges will be fifty feet each. The bridge over the Bitter Root
river, which is indispensable, will be two hundred and fifty feet long,
and should be constructed at an early day. A flatboat is already
provided for this crossing. The amount of excavation done on the
divide of the Ccur d'Ale'ne mountains was about forty thousand cubic
yards, and the entire amount done on the road during the season is
about sixty thousand cubic yards. There are some two miles of road
to be relocated and altered, whereby two crossings of the river will be
avoided and a better road made.
The width of the road as cut and cleared through timber is from
fifteen to twenty feet, and its length constructed this season, from
Fort Walla-Walla to Cantonment Jordan, is two hundred and fiftyeight miles.
Respectfully submitted.
W. WV. JOHNSON, C. L-.,
Fort Walla- Walla and Fort Benton Mil. Wagon Road Exp.