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BRAZIL AND LA PLATA:
THE
PERSONAL RECORD OF A CRUISE.
BY
C.rS.STEWART, A. 3I., U. S. N.,
AUTHOR OF
"A  RESIDENCE  AT THE SANDWICH  ISLANDS,"' VISIT  TO  THE SOUTH SEAS,
"SKETCHES IN GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND, ETO., ETC.
"Sail forth into the sea, 0 ship I
Through wind and wave right onward steer!
The moistened eye, the trembling lip,
Are not the signs of doubt and fear.Sail forth, nor fear to breast the sea!
Our hearts, our hopes, are all with thee!"
LONGFELLOW.
NEW YOIRK:
G. P. PUTNAM & CO., 321 BROADWAY.
1856.




Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1856,
By G. P. PUTNA[M  & CO.,
In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the Sonthe(rn
District of New York.
JouN F. TRow,
Printer and Stereotyper, 377 & 379 Broadway,
Corl'er of XTsite street.




TO
M Y -DAUGHTERS,
THIS VOLUME
DRAVWN FROM 3MANUSCRIPTS ADDRESSED TO THEM,
IS AFFECTIONATELY
uscrU1dr.








PREFACE.
Two inducements have led to the publication of the
following volume: one, the favor with which similar
works from my pen have been received; the other, the
belief that a book of fact, for light reading, would be welcome to many, amid the floods of fiction of the present
day.
It was with no purpose of making a book, that the
record from which the volume is drawn was kept; on the
contrary, the chief difficulty I have found, in fitting it for
the press, has arisen, from its being so strictly personal
and private. To remodel the manuscript so as to change
its character in these respects, would have been a labor
which I was unwilling to undertake; and to select from it
such matter as might be at once suitable for publication,
and acceptable to the general reader, without affecting the
connection and unity of the whole, has proved a task not
easily acomplished.  In attempting it, I may have erred
in judgment by putting into print, in some instances,




Vi                    PREFACE.
what might better have been omitted; and again perhaps,
in others by omitting what would have been welcomed by
the reader.
Besides such matter as was essential in giving an outline of the cruise of the Congress, and such observation
of the places visited by her, as would be expected in a
work of the kind, I have thought it proper to retain of that
which related specifically to the ship, sufficient to convey a
general idea of life on board a man-of-war; and also, of
that which referred to myself in my office, enough to
throw light upon the position, duties, and influence of a
chaplain in the naval service.
Should the volume meet with any degree of acceptance from the public in general, I shall be grateful; and
should its circulation be limited to the decks of a mnan-ofwar, or to the forecastle of a merchant-ship, the object in
its publication will not be entirely lost.
C. S.S.
RIVERSIDE, 1856.




CONTENTS.
CHIAPTER I.
PAGE
Departure from Cape Ihenry-Sacrifices in Naval Life-Evening Prayers-First Casualty-Sabbath at Sea-Scene in the Gulf Stream —Aly Ship and Shipmates-The
Crew,....1
CHAPTER II.
Great Caycos-Case of Punishment-The Cat-o'-nine Tails-M-oral Effects of the Lash
-Evening on board a Man-of-War-Scenes off IIavana-Entrance into Port,. 13
CHIAPTER III.
The Prisoners of Contoy-Excitement at Havana-The Captain General and Chief of
Police —isits of Ceremony-Drive on Shore-The ~olante —Pseco and Champs
de Anars-Evening Promenade —Yisit to RIegla by Night-The Captive Filibusters
-Destiny of Cuba,... 26
CHAPTER IV.
Gulf of Florida-The Wreckers-Incidents in the Sick DBay-Maury's Wind and Current Charts-The Doldrums-Crossing the Line-Neptune Aboard-Dreams of
Home-Impedimtents to Piety on board a Man-of-War-Giving up Grog,.. 42
CHAPTER V.
Cape Frio-Coast Scene-Bay of Rio-Reminiscence of the Past-City of Rio-Yellow Fever-Equipages —Drive to Botafogo-A Tropical Home,.... 5
CIHAPTER VI.
First Impressions at Rio-M-ixture of Races-Senate Chamber-Imperial Legislature
-F orm  of Government-Council of State —Miinistry —lNobility-The Court in
State-The Emperor and Empress,..70




iii
Vl1                              CONTENTS.
CHAPTER VII.
PAGE
Cemetery of Gamboa-Governor Kent-Tomb of the lIon. William Tudor-Island
and Fortress of Villegagnon-Discovery of Brazil —Huguenot Colonists-Treachery of Villegagnon-Progress in Civilization-State of the Empire-Its Dangers
and Safeguards,.. 80
CHAPTER ~III.
Praya Grande and Praya San Domingo —Bay of St. Francis Xavier-Passage to the
Plata-Montevideo - Sea-Birds —Cape Pigeon —Albatross-Booby —Stormy  Petrel-D olphin —Nautilus-Portugues3 3Man-of-War,                             90
CIIAPTER IX.
Rio de Janeiro-The City Palace-Scenes at Court-M-ode of Presentation-Character of the Emperor and Empress-Their IHabits of Life-Suppressiosn of Slave
Trade-Illness of a Sailor-boy-First Death on board the Congress,.. 104
CIIAPTER X.
All Souls' Day-Church and Convent of San Antonio-Commemoration of the Dead
-Manner of preserving the Bones of the Dead-Ascent of the Corcovado-Panoramic View-Sources of the Aqueduct-Its Construction and History —Descent of
the Hill of Santa Theresa,..117
CIIAPTER XI.
Prisons and Prison Discipline —Ball on Ship-board-F-te at the American Ambassador's-Western Suburbs of Rio-Country Seat of AMr.  -- B13ritish Flag-Ship
-Admiral and Mr. PRcynolds-Garden of Don Juan M-   -Madame T-M-. 128
CHAPTER XII.
Weather at Rio-Meteorological Chang-es —Mountain Walks-Shops and Shopping
-IRestrictions upon Females by Custom —Slaves at Auction —Birthday of Don
Pedro II.-Nrational Hymn and Air —A Yankee Captain's Opinion of Court State
-The Emperor afloat,.                                                     143
CHAPTER XIII.
Weddling  at the American Consulate-Marriage at the Orphan Asylum-Foundling
HIospital-Foreign Conmmerce-Arrivals in Port-U. S. Sloop St. Mary-Captain
Ma-grmder-Botaniical Garden —Storm from the Corcovado —Fte at the Chapel
Santa Lucia-Churches on Christumas Eve —Twelfth Night Party-Youthful Piety
in Military Life,.                                                        154
CHAPTER XIV.
Montevideo-Its Political Condition-First Impressions on Shore-Mr. H-  and
Family-British Church and Services,.. 6C




CONTENTS.                                       ix
CHAPTER XV.
PAGE
Buenos Ayres-M-fode of Landing-RLeception of Commodore McKeever —Evenin-g
Drive —Negro oWasherwomen-Carts of the Pampas-W-,ashington's Birthday —
Mr. Harris, American Chargs  d'Affaires-Quinta of IPalermo —Dona Ianunellta de
Rosas-Pleasure Grounds-Interview with Rosas —His Appearance and Conversation,. 173
CHAPTER XVI.
The Argentine Confederation-Early Life of Rosas-A Type of the People-Life in
the Pampas-Police of Buenos Ayres-Description of the City-Visit to the
Conde de Bessi-Nuncio from the Pope,.                     188
CHAPTER XVII.
M'ontevideo-Store-ship  Southampton —Dr. C-, Fleet Surgeon -The Poor of
Montevideo —French Troops-Dress of the Guacho —Mr. and Madamrne L-   -
lirs. Z-   -Pamperos at Montevideo-Dliseases of the Climate —Marriage of Dr.
K —  of the St. Louis —Funeral of Mrs. S —P — rotestant Burial-Ground,. 198
CHAPTER XVIII.
Island of St. Catherine-Scenery at Santa Cruz-Captain Cathcart acting ConsulCity of Desterro-Its Public Square-Market Place-HIotel-Civility of the Inhabitants-Manufactures of Flowers in Feathers and Shells-Dinner-Waiter and
Waitress —Walks at Santa Cruz —An Unexpected Recognition-Dangerous Walking Ground,.                                   209
CHAPTER XIX.
Return to Rio de Janeiro —Wrinter Weather there-The Larangeiras or Orange Valley —VWalk alonsg the Aqueduct-Festivals of the Romish Church-Corpus Christi
and St. John's Days —Marriages at the Orphan Asylum-I-Hospital of the  iiseracordia-NMagnificence e of the New Building-Country Seat of Mr. Ml-  -Scenes
at a Wedding-Lieu t. R-  -Smuggled Liquor and the Consequence-A Reproof
to Despondency,..220
CHAPTER XX.
Political State of Miontevideo —Defection of Urquiza-Address of Rosas —Retreat of
Oribe-Visit to the Mount-Pacification at MTontevideo-Termination of the Siege
-Scenes in the Streets and Suburbs,..                                           23
CHAPTER XXI.
Visit to Urquiza —Iis Encampment at Pantanoso-AMarque6 of Commander-in-Chief
-Travelling Carriage and Baggage  Wagon —Adjutant on lDuty-Reception-Personal Appearance of Urquiza-IIis Pet Mastiff —Professed Purposes of the Liberator-Itis past Ihistory and Domestic Relations —The Cerrito and its FortressTown of Restoracion-A Gilpin-like Ride-Guacho Soldiers in Camup-Their Dress,
Pastime and Subsistence —Mode of Slaunghtering  Cattle —Proclaation by Urcquiza, 249




X                                CONTENTS.
CHIAPTER XXII.
PAGE
Return to Brazil —Assault of a Runner on board the Congress-Captain lMcIntoshlIis Transfer to the Falmouth-Departure for the United States —.Making Daylight
-Ship's Library-Sailors as Readers-Street Calls in Rio-Civility and Patience of
the People-Disinclination to  locomotion —Oulnibuses-Mules and Omsnibus
Drivers,..                               266
CHAPTER XXIII.
San Aliexo-Mr. and Mrs. M —  -Steam Paclket-Passengers-Image Venders-San
Antonio-Superstition of the People-Experience in Miracles-Admiral T-  -
— Luncheon-Negro Valet-Piedade —An American Wagon -White 1Mules-Turnpike-Character of the Scenery-Town of Majo-Private Road of Mr. H —   -
Cottonl Factory and American House-Sabbath at San Aliexo —Romish ClergyPeak Valley anid River —Rain in the Mounotains-Sudden Rise in the StreamsMandioca IMill-Difficulties encountered by Mr..275
CHAPTER XXIV.
Christmas-Marriage of Miss i  — Negroes in the Holidays —Scene of Revelry in
the Lara.neiras-AAmnsing Street Scene-Custom-I-ouse Regulations-Characteristic want of Confidence-Security of Property and Person-Criminal Prosecutions-Forms in Court —Manner of taking the Oath —Public executions —Return
to Montevideo-State of Affairs in the Plata-Invasion of Buenos Ayres by Urquiza-Tragic Fate of Missionaries in Terra del Fuego,...291
CIIHAPTER XXV.
Overthrow of Rosas-Dona Manuelita at Palermo-Her Escape at Night in Disguise
on board an English Man-of-War-Pillage in Buenos Ayres-First'Checked by the
Marines of the Congress and Jamestown-Summary Punishment of the Maranders —Urquiza at Palermno-General Terero —Visit to the Wounded in the IIospital-Suburbs of the City —English Burial-Ground-Governmenit House built by
Rosas,.........                                                       0T
CHAPTER XXVI.
Battle field of Monte Caseros-Scenes on the Way-Santos Lugares-Anecdotes of
the Confict-Triumphhal Entry of the Allied Armies into Buenos Ayres-Te
De um at the Cathedral and Thanksegivings Sermon,..3.22
CIIAPTER XXVII.
Hespitality in Buenos Ayres-Recturn to Montevideo-Public Rejoicings-Admirals
Lepredour and Grenfell-Deep-Sea Soundings-Sea. Scene-Walks at DesterroPraya Compreda —A Yankee Cobbler-Ride to San Pedro d'Alcantara-Indoor
Scenes-Our I-Host and lis IHousemaid-Preparatioius for the Night-Chapel aind
Cemetery-Mountain Scenery-Morning Visit to a German Famnily-A Feat of
Agility —Luncheon —Milk and Mandioca-Departure from  San Pedro-Ride by
Night,.             33




CONTENTS.                                  Xi
CHAPTER XXVIII.
PAGE
Desterro —Mr. Wells-Funereal of a Child-Evening Walk —A Novena-Singular
Usage-Auction at the Church —fock Emperor-Evening Ride —Mountain View
-Habits in Rural Life-Indians-Venomous Snahkes-Antidote for the Poison of
Snakes —Whit-Sunday-Coronation of the Mock Emperor-President of St. Catherine-Preaching by the Vicar-Appointment and Support of the Clergy-Pastime
at Santa Cruz-Impoverished Germans-Estate of Las Palmas-Senor de L-   -
Antonio de L-   -Coup d'Etat by Urquiza-Rev. Mr. and Mrs. Lore-Protestant Churches-Rural Scenes-Native Cows-IIon. Mr. Schenck-Rev. Mr. and
Mrs. Fletcher,.............. 359
CHAPTER XXIX.
Ascent of the Sierra of the Organ Mountains —Frieschal —La Barriera —Mules and Muleteers-Mountain Wood in Flower-Boa Vista —II-   Iall-Arrival at Constantia
-Mr. Heath-His Estate-Slaves and their Treatment-Mdorning and Evening
Benedictions-Mountain Route to Petropolis-Woodland Scenery-MonkeysIsolated Peaks-Valley of Piabanha-Mule Riding-Petropolis-German Protestant Church,..    401
CHAPTER XXX.
Buenos Ayres in 1853 —Revolution and Civil War —Mode of Conducting it-Savage
Atrocities of the Outside Party-Failure of all Mediations in effecting a Pacification-Final Departure of Commodore McKeever and Suite-Homeward Bound,. 418
POSTSCRIPT..                              425








BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
CHAPTER I.
U. S. SIIP CONGRESS, CAPES OF VIRGINIA.
June 8th, 1850.-The time for my promised record has
arrived: the Congress is at sea.  This afternoon, with light and
baffling wincls, in a most lazy and listless manner she gained a
distance of ten miles outside of Cape Henry, where, a breeze
springing up sufficiently fresh to insure an offing before nightfall,
the pilot took his leave for the land and we filled away upon the
sea.
The Sth of June thus becomes for a second time an anniversary with me.  Twenty years ago to-day, amid the bright beauty
of a summer's afternoon, I entered the bay of New York from a
voyage of the world.  But, in what wide contrast were the feelings of that hour with those of this in which I now write! Then,
the sunshine of the soul, beaming from face to face and reflected
from eye to eye, outrivalled the brightness of the joyous scene
around.  We were safely at home, after a long and adventurous
absence, and within reach of the salutations and embraces of
1




2                 BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
those we most loved. Now, there is sunshine neither without nor
within: without, a thick and gloomy haze obscures its smiles,
and within, the sadness of separation for years from  home and
country, with all the uncertainty of its issues, entirely beclouds
them. There is nothing joyous to us in the " glad sea: " it does
not dance in our eyes as it was wont, or as we have, at times at
least, imagined it to do.
Little do they who may envy the lot of an officer in the navy
-in its opportunities of varied travel, the knowledge it affords
of men and things, and observation of nature in her most impressive forms-know at what a sacrifice of the affections, in their
choicest exercise, and by what a penalty of wearisome duty, in
irksome routine, the privileges of the position are bought.  A
sacrifice and a penalty which, when the novelty of travel and' The magic charm of foreign land"
are passed, and the enthusiasm of youth is chastened by the experiences of maturer years, are felt with a keenness which, to be
justly appreciated, must be personally known.  The long conviction of this has been impressed afresh upon my mind by. an
incident of the passing hour.  Mr. B —-- a gentleman of wealth
and distinguished social position in one of our principal cities,
has for some days past been a guest of thie ward-room  mess, as
the close friend of a fellow officer.  He chose to accompany us
to the open sea, and risk the discomfort of a night on board the
pilot boat in a return to the shore, rather than take leave at an
earlier moment.  While the little craft was still hovering around
us, waiting the signal to approach and take off its master and his
passenger, the officer referred to, in momentary expectation of
this second leavetaking of home, as it were, in parting from one
who was going directly to his family, approaching me, exclaimed,
in a spirit of half desperation-" Oh [ Mr. S-, if I were in circumstances to live on shore with my family independently of my
profession, I would go straight over the sides of the ship into




EVENING PRAYER.                       3
that boat, and throw my commission to the winds.  When I think
of my wife and children, I feel as if I would dig and grub —do
any thing for an honest living-rather than thus for three years
leave them for a drudgery so distasteful to me as life on board
a man-of-war in time of peace, with scarce an object but to
get through an irksome duty."  Such must be the feelings, in a
greater or less degree, of every sea-officer who has reached the
meridian of life; and such would be my own, were there not connected with my office and its duties, issues, in hope at least,
sufficient to outbalance all earthly considerations.
Jeune 10th.-Little worthy of record, even in a journal for
home, can be anticipated in a passage to Cuba; yet an incident
has already occurred, which I would not pass over without notice.
When 3MIr. B —--- and the pilot left us on Saturday, the shades
of a sombre evening were settling around us, and, as is customary
on.board a man-of-war in ordinary cruising, we reefed topsails for
the night.  This done, as the lighthouse fires began to gleam
over the dark waters, from  Cape H-Ienry at one point and from
Cape Charles at another, all hands were called to our first evening
prayer on the quarter-deck.  The deep twilight and the gloomy
sky made the service the more impressive.  Few on board, even
among the officers, knew of the intention of Captain McIntosh
with the sanction of Commodore McKeever, to have daily evening
worship. One or two of those who did, had never witnessed such
an observance on board ship, and doubted its expediency.  But
the impression made by it was at once effective and conclusive on
the minds of those even who had most doubted. This they
readily admitted to others as well as to myself: and while saying
that it was the first time they had ever been present at such a
service in the navy, added a hope that it would never be discontinued on board the Congress.
I was cheered by this frank avowal from those whose judgment I prized, and whose high-toned character carries with it
predominating influence among their associates.  Long experience
warrants me in regarding this appointment as a most importa:int




4                 BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
auxiliary in the work of a chaplaincy, and an efficient promoter
of discipline and good order on board a man-of-war. It is
honorable to the principles and moral perceptions of those who
framed the existing laws of the navy, that the second article in
the code enjoins a daily service of worship on board every ship
having a chaplain; and it is to be regretted that an injunction
so salutary, in the moral economy of a crew, and in its general
tendency, should in so few instances have been carried into effect.'The evening worship of the Cotter's fireside-where,
"Kineeling down to Heaven's Eternal King,
The saint, the father, and the husband prays,"
presents a picture which might well call forth the inspiration of
the poet.  In every grade of life, the social altar, encircled in the
sincerity and simplicity of the Gospel, is in like manner an ele.
vating and a touching sight. But if impressive in the comparative
security of the shore, far from the fitful changes and dangers of
the sea, how much more so when exhibited in the floating dwellicis of those whose " home is on the deep."  If He, who alone
"commands the winds and the waves, and they obey " —He, who
" rides upon the whirlwind and directs the storm," is the receiver
of our thanksgiving and the only hearer of prayer, who sooner
than the sailor should be found in supplication, or who be more
frequent, or more fervent than he in praise?
Whatever may be the ultimate results in individual cases of
such a service, few persons have for a first time witnessed it,
without bearing testimony to its impressiveness on the eye,
whatever may have been the influence felt upon the heart. But,
it is not without cause, that I ever look for something more
from it.  The man-of-wars-man with all his recklessness, and,
too often, degrading vices, has, in many cases, moral sensibilities
and affections which bring him, where the means of grace are
enjoyed, within the pale of hope; and I have never yet been
long on board a ship where, to the preaching of the Gospel on




FIRST CASUALTY.                     5
the Sabbath, there has been added this daily evening prayer,
without hearing from  some troubled spirit the inquiry, "What
shall I do to be saved? " followed, not unfrequently, by the
resolution of the repenting prodigal, " I will arise and go to my
Father, and will say to him, Father, I have sinned against Heaven
and in thy sight, and am no more worthy to be called thy son."
The excitement incident to our departure and the tedium of
a listless day, with little progress till we were at sea, disposed all
on board not on watch, to retire early; and for the most part such
were soundly asleep, myself among the number, when suddenly
aroused at midnight by the cry, "a A man overboard!"  There
was little wind and not much sea; but the darkness was Egyptian;
the rain poured in torrents; and while the booming thunder of an
approaching gust rolled heavily over the deep, occasional flashes
of vivid lightning added double intensity, in the intervals, to the
blackness around.  The rescue of the perishing man seemed
hopeless.  Supposing him of course to be one of the crewperhaps the most active and gallant of their number, who had
lost his foothold in some effort of duty in preparation for the
coining squall-I felt disheartened by so sad a casualty at the
very outset of our cruise. I thought of our evening prayer, and
of the deep feeling with which, in its brief worship, we had supplicated the defences of the Almighty, and in confiding trust
committed ourselves to his protecting care.  Had the Lord not
had respect to our offering-had the Almighty not regarded our
prayer?
In the midst of thoughts such as these, it was a relief, though
a melancholy one indeed, to learn that the wretch overboard was
not any of the fine fellows whose physical aspect and general
bearing had already won from me, in my position, a deep interest,
but a poor drunkard, who had been brought on board in a state
of delirium tremens, from the receiving ship, the day we left
Norfolk; and who had at once been consigned, in care of the
surgeons, to the sick-bay.  In a pa.roxysm  of madness, he had
now rushed from his keepers below to the gun-deck; and, knock



6                BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
ing down with a billet of wood caLught up at the galley, one in
pursuit, had plunged headforemost through an open bridle-port,
to be seen and heard of no more.
The life-buoys were cut away, the ship put about, boats
lowered and sent off, at the risk of life both to officers and men,
in the pitchy darkness and rapidly approaching squall: blue lights
were burned, and repeated shouts through a trumpet made, in
hope of some response, but all in vain, in rescuing him from his
doom. After the first plunge, nothing was seen or heard from
him.  A  miserable madman from strong drink, the accompaniments of his end on earth-the midnight gloom, the angry lightning, the muttering thunder, and the moaning wind, were befitting
the fate of an immortal spirit "unanointed —unannealed," thus
passing into the eternal world.  I-e was an old man-of-wars-man,
and, three years ago, in a similar condition and near the same
place, jumped overboard from a frigate the first night from port,
and was with great difficulty saved.  How faithful the admonition, "He that being often reproved hardeneth his neck, shall
suddenly be destroyed, and that without remedy.-"
Yesterday, the Sabbath, was a bright and beautiful day, with
favoring winds and a smooth sea. The quarter-deck, screened
from the sun by awnings, was our chapel; the capstan, spread
with the stripes and stars of an ensign, our reading desk and
pulpit; and the band, with sacred music, both our organ and
choir. IMy sermon, suggested by the incident *of the preceding
night, was an exposition of the evils, physical, moral and spiritual, of intemperance, and the frightful condition of such as
become its hopeless victims.  The fatal proofs of the truths advanced, in the bodily and mental state of him who had just perished before our eyes as it were, caused the most fixed attention
to be given to what was said, both by the officers and men.
I was happy to be told by the captain, immediately after the
service, that it had been officially reported to him the day before,
that more than three hundred of the crew, or two thirds of the
whole number of foremast hands, did not draw the ration of rum




SCENE IN THE GULF STREAM.                    7
furnished them by the government: this of their own voluntary
choice, no persuasion having yet been used on board to influence
any one on the subject.  An encouraging fact certainly, at the
offset, in this essential point in the morals of the sailor, and one
that ought to be suggestive to our national legislators of the
duty of strilking at once from the list of naval allowances, a
poison tending to the destruction of both body and soul. The
day was a happy one to me, in the retirement of my own little
room, as well as in the public discharge of my duties.  A long
and kind letter from an officer, in answer to a note with which I
had returned one given to me to read, was so encouraging to me
in my office, and so full of promise spiritually for himself, as
deeply to affect me.  I could but regard it as a token of grace
frome  Him in whose hands are all hearts, and as an intimation of
the good that may be accomplished on board, even in the most
influential quarters.
Our worship, at sunset, was commenced, after an air of sacred
music from  the band, by the reading of Addison's beautiful
hymn"How are thy servants blest, 0 Lord!
How sure is their defence i
Eternal Wisdom is their guide,
Their help, Omnipotence."
To-day we are crossing the gulf stream under a fresh breeze
amounting almost to a gale: a " smoky southwester" with a short
and high sea, into which the frigate plunges deeply, taking in
large quantities of water forward. This rushing aft, as the ship
rises, makes the gun as well as the spar-deck wet and uncomfortable.  The wardroom, with all the stern and air-ports closed,
is dark and stifling in its atmosphere, and every thing on board
partakes largely of the disagreeable at sea.  The motion is so
great that nothing can be left by itself; and, at breakfast, each of
us secured, as best he could, the very indifferent fare that came
in his way. bread like so much lead; biscuits which, bagged and




8                 BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
netted, mlight have passed inspection as grape-shot; rancid butter;
addled eggs; and execrable stuff under the names of tea and
coffee! As I cast my eyes over the mess-table and its surroundings, in the gloomy twilight falling from the hatchway above, and
upon a disconsolate-looking and silent set of companions, I could
not avoid contrasting the whole, involuntarily, with a breakfast room
in my mind, on shore, in the fresh beauty of a morning in June —
with a brightly gleaming lawn in front; the mingled bloom of the
rose and the honeysuckle at the windows; the cheerful family
group; and the varied fare fresh from the garden, the farm-house,
and the dairy —and sigh at the difference in the pictures.  Such
a day as this, on shipboard in the gulf stream, with its discomfort
in almost every form, would be enough to make a landsman content, for the rest of his life, with the blessings of the shore.
Apropos of our steward.  We have been sadly imposed on
by the professed qualifications of this important functionary.
Claiming to be perfect in all, we find he knows nothing of any of
his appropriate duties.  The day we left Norfolk he gave a characteristic proof of his fitness for the office.  It was at dinner,
our guest Mr. B-.  being of the number.  Among the courses
was a salad dressed by our' maitre d'hote.  Mr. B —-— was
first served with it.  I was the next to take from the dish, and
in doing so, happening to look towards the visitor, was struck
by a very peculiar expression of the eye and countenance as he
tasted it —a blending of surprise, comical inquiry, and effort at
self-command, while the fork was very quietly returned to his
plate, as if he were done with it. Suspecting the salad to be
the origin of all this, and hastily testing the point by a mouthful,
I found to my utter disgust, that, in obedience to the direction of
the caterer to use plenty of oil in the dressing, he had, in ignorance of any other, dashed the whole most copiously with the
vilest lamp oil! The effect upon the palate can be more readily
imagined than described.
June 12th. —A breeze from the north-east, which set in last
night, promises to prove a regular trade-wind, and we are running




MY SHIP AND SHIPMATES.
rapidly before it on our course. You may easily follow our track,
by marking, on a map, a pretty straight line from the mouth of
the Chesapeake to the channel of the sea, between the Islands of St.
Domingo and Porto Rico.  It is our intention to pass between
these, by what is named on the charts of the West Indies, the
Ml~ona Passage, and then lay a course by the south side of Cuba
to Havana.  Should it be asked why we go, seemingly, so much
out of our way and so far round; I answer, that for a large ship,
it is not only the safest, but, in point of time, the shortest route.
The strong and adverse current of the gulf stream, and the intricate and hazardous navigation of the Florida channel, are the
objections to the direct course along the coast.  The weather is
now fine —in strong contrast with that last described; and, at
night, we have a splendid moon, enticing to constant visits in
thought and affection to Riverside.  Beautiful as moonlight is at
sea, I must confess to a preference, in the enjoyment of it in the
month of June, for the south-west corner of a verandah on the
banks of the Hudson.
I have, thus far, been giving my time chiefly to visits through
my floating parish —from the quarters of the Commodore to those
of " Jenmly Ducks,"' amnd " Jack of the dust," as the feeder of the
pigs and poultry, and the sweeper of the Purser's store-rooms, in
shipboard nomenclature, are respectively styled.  Almost every
day, since coming on board, I have discovered here and there a
shipmate of some former cruise; and perceive hourly evidence of
having through these —in part at least-already gained the marked
good will of the crew.  I am  quite at home in all my walks
amlong them; and have every reason to be more than satisfied —
to be truly thankful —in myn official relation with them.
The Congress, a fifty-gun ship, is one of the finest vessels
of her class.   She is a model of strength and symmetry in
hull and spars, and of imposing and effective equipment in her
batteries and armament: never failing to attract the notice of
all who have an eye to appreciate a chef d'oeuvre in naval archi1



10                RRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
tecture.  She is, too, a swift messenger over the waters, as well
as a tower of strength and beauty on the sea.
The intellectual and moral tastes of many of my immediate
associates and equals in naval rank, are such as not only to
make them  agreeable companions, but also to give to our mess
in general, by their example and influence, a high-toned and
elevated character; and I regard it a providence of special kindness that, in those chief in authority and executive power, I find
cordial friends personally, and firm  supporters in my duty officially. Their views, too, and their purposes, in regard to discipline and naval reform, harmonize with my own, in the persuasion that kindness is the surest key to the hnman heart; and that, in
government, the law of love is more effectual than the rule of fear.
I felt this particularly, in a long conversation with the commodore
this mlorning, during a walk on the quarter-deck, and at breakfast
with him afterwards.  On this point I like his views much; and
augur great good from them, in the support they will lead him to
extend, officially, to the executive officer of the ship, in carrying
out a system of internal rule based upon the principle of kindness
and good will, of the practical well-working of which he i,
entirely persuaded.
The crew, physcically, are a fine set of men: healthful,
athletic and young, the average age of the four hundred foremast hands scarcely exceeding twenty-five years.  This general
youthfulness of the ship's company encourages mne to hope much
from  them as subjects of moral culture.  They are more likely,
than seamen of a more advanced age, to have had the benefit of
a religious training in the Sabbath schools now so universally established in most sections of our country; and, thus, be more
susceptible to moral impressions and persuasion, should they not
have already felt the influence of the general improvement in the
character of sailors which, confessedly, has taken place within
the last ten or fifteen years.  Still, at best, a man-of-war is a
sterile and roclky field for spiritual labor.  There is ever on board
a large ship of the kind, a greater or less number of reckless




CHARACTER OF THE CREW.                    11
and desperately wicked men: some who have been convicts and
the inmates of state prisons and penitentiaries, and more who,
long under the surveillance of the police, and pressed by close pursuit, have sought refuge at the rendezvous and receiving ship, from
the merited penalties of the law. Of these last we are certain
of having quite a company, composed pretty equally of' Southwark killers,''Schuylkill rangers,'' Baltimore rowdies,'' Bowery
boys,' and'Five Pointers.' The whole number of both these
classes, however, does not amount to more than fifty; the hundreds of others on board are either honest-hearted and true sailors,
or inexperienced and raw landsmen:' good men,' according to the
ethics of the sea.  The " baser sort," though comparatively so
few in number, are ever first in gaining prominence and notoriety
on board, by bringing themselves, through a manifestation of their
evil propensities, in contact with the discipline of the ship, while
the true sailor and old man-of-wars-man, in the quiet discharge of
their duty remain for a time unappreciated, and perhaps personally unknown.
To an inexperienced eye, a man-of-war with her crew of five
hundred, seems only like a bee-hive full of confusion and uproar,
while, in truth, there is throughout in every department perfect
organization and order.  Every individual has his class, his
number, and his station; the duty of each in his place is clearly
defined; and whatever is to be done is accomplished with much
of the regularity of a machine operating through the same
number of wheels.  To the samre eye there would appear no
signs of caste or grades of distinction, moral or social, in the
general mass:. there would be only so many hundred sailors,
seemingly alike in all respects.  Little would be dreamed of the
extremes, not only of moral character, existing among them, but
of social distinction also-from the exclusives of the "' upper ten,"
priding themselves on moving only in the first circles, through
three or four marked sets to the canaille, utterly below recognition
or social intercourse.  There is a marked difference, too, among
miiany, in the outer man.  Though the dress of all is uniform  in




12                 BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
color and general material, still there is often the widest difference in the quality, fitting, and make of the entire wardrobe; and,
while one is so careless and slovenly in his attire, as to require the
daily inspection of an officer, others are perfect sea-dandies, as fastidiously neat and clean in person, as the whole series of brushes
known to the toilette-table can make them; and as fond of being
assured of this, by repeated inspections and last glances in the
miniature mirrors carried in their hats, or about their persons, as a
beau of the first water on shore, before a Psyche in preparation
for the ball or opera.
After the public worship of the last Sabbath, Mr. T ——, the
first lieutenant, who has had long experience in Sabbath schools,
both as a teacher and superintendent, aided me in the formation
of one among the twenty-four boys on board, from ten to fifteen
years of age  each of us taking charge of a class of twelve.
The value of a voluntary agency of this kind, from an officer of
commanding influence, can scarcely be over-estimated.  My next
attempt, as a means of good, will be the establishment of Bible
classes among the men.  If successful in this, I am  happy to
know that others of the officers stand ready to assist me in the
like manner.
It is an interesting fact, and one strikingly illustrative of the
improved and elevated tone of morals in the navy, that of the
fourteen gentlemen constituting the wardroom mess, five are professedly religious men of consistent and exemplary character.




CHAPTER II.
AT SEA.
June 19th.-Two days ago, at noon, land was descried from
the mast-head.  We were approaching the Bahama Islands, not
in the direction of the Mona Passage, but in that of the Caycos,
more to the west, the wind having headed us off from our first
course. During the previous night, we had passed over a point
on the ocean, memorable in its historic interest, where, on the
very eve of joyful triumph, the illustrious discoverer of the
western world suffered the severest trial of his daring voyage. It
was here that the discouragement and fears of his followers in
their frail barks, approached desperation and open mutiny; and
confident hope had well nigh ended in disappointment, and triumphant success in failure.  It was impossible to traverse the
same waters, without recalling vividly to mind the scene of trial
and conflict which they had witnessed more than three hundred
and fifty years before, and sympathizing afresh with the great
navigator in his distress; or to hear the cry, "land ho!  without recurring in thought to the devout exultations of his heart,
when, in the watches of the night, the interrupted glimmerings of
a distant light peered upon eyes eagerly searching its gloom, dispelling for ever the fears of his companions, and crowning his
adventurous enterprise with imperishable honor.
The land descried aloft, soon became visible from the deck.
It was the great Caycos, the most eastern of the Bahamas, a




14                BRAZIL AND LA PLATA,
low, flat island of sand, surrounded by extensive shoals. There
was little to interest in its appearance; a mere tufting of bushes
on the water, along the line of the horizon, of which we soon
lost sight.  The next morning, and for the rest of the day, the
west end of St. Domingo was in view, furnishing in its turn
abundant subjects for musing in the tragic scenes of- the revolt
of 1791. Before nightfall the eastern extremity of Cuba was also
in sight.  Both are lofty and mountainous, but less picturesque
in general outline than the islands of the South Seas. The sail
of the afternoon and evening was delightful, —the perfection of
its kind.  The trade-wind was fresh and balmy, and so steady,
that the lofty mass of canvas we spread to it was as motionless
as if it were a fixture on the sea; while the ocean, of the most
beautiful tint of marine blue, was every where gemmed with
white-caps of the brilliancy of so much snow.
JPune 20th. —Hiitherto the duty of the ship has been carried on
admirably under a kind and humane discipline. The lash, formerly
in such constant requisition on board a man-of-war, in bringing a
new crew under ready control, has neither been heard nor seen.
A  fight, however, which came off a day or two since, between
two of the marines, led to a kind of drumhead court-martial,
yesterday, and to the punishment of the parties this morning,
with the cat-o'-nine-tails. It is the first instance with us of such
a revolting spectacle, and I most devoutly hope it may be the
last.  I amn sure it will, unless there be those on board so incorrigible and so determined to subject themselves to it, that no
other mode of discipline will meet their case.  Before we left
port, Captain McIntosh, in an excellent address, after the first
reading in public of the " articles of war," assured the crew with
deep feeling, that nothing could give him greater pleasure than to
return to the United States and have it in his power to report to
the Navy Department that a lash had never been given on board
the Congress during the cruise. He reiterated the same sentiment
this morning to the ship's company, mustered to witness the punishment, with the fresh avowal of his utter unwillingness to resort




CASE OF PUNISHMENT.                     15
to so degrading a mode of chastisement: adding " that the existing law, however, made the duty imperative upon him as an ultimate means of enforcing his command, and protecting his ship
from insubordination and misrule; and that it should be remembered by all, whenever the necessity was forced on him of administering this punishment, that it would only be through the deliberate purpose and choice of any one subjecting himself to it."
The cat-o'-nine-tails, as a mode of punishment, is a relic of
barbarism disgraceful to the age in which we live, and antagonistic to its entire spirit. The wonder is, not that men-of-wars men
are scarce, and recruits for the navy few, but that, with such a
barbarous punishment legalized, an American sailor can be found
willing to place himself in a position in which he can, by any contingency, be exposed to the disgrace of its infliction.
In place of attempting a description of the spectacle, as just
witnessed by us, I will substitute one, which happens to be before
me, of a similar scene, from the pen of an officer in the British
Navy. It is more graphic than any I could furnish, and as truthful to the reality, in its leading features, as can well be pictured.
It is drawn from his early experience as a midcshipman.  " I had
not been many days on bocard," he says, " before I heard a hollow
sound reverberating round the frigate's decks, and which seemed
to bring a shade of gloom over the faces of all around me.
Again the words were repeated, " All hands, Ahoy! "  I eagerly
inquired the meaning of this mystery, and was answered by a lad
about sixteen years of age,'It is all hands to punishmient, my
boy; you are going to see a man flogged.'
"The idea of a mnan being flogged at all, under any possible
circumstances, had never before entered my brain.  I had as yet
no notions that such a degree of barbarity could exist; I had
indeed known that boys were floggedl, but how they could horse a
man was to me a mystery.  My reflections were broken in upon
by observing all my messmates busily engaged in putting on their
cocked-hats and side-arms.  And as this was the first time I had
sported my new dirkl, I felt very strange and mingled sensations,




16               RRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
as I stepped forth on the quarter-deck.  The marines were drawn
up on the larboard side of the deck, with their bayonets fixed,
and their officers with their swords drawn, and resting against
their shoulders.  On the main deck the seamen had all assembled
in a dense crowd around the hatchway, and the said hatchway
was ornamented with several gratings fixed up on one end, evidently for some purpose which I had never yet seen accomplished.
The officers in their full uniforms, with swords, and cocked hats,
were pacing the decks: but all was still and solemn silence. At
length the captain came forth from his cabin, the marines carrying arms at his first appearance on the quarter-deck. The first
lieutenant, taking off his hat, approached him, and reported that'all was ready.'
" As the captain came up to the gangway, he removed his
hat; which was followed by all the men and officers b-ecoming
uncovered. Then, taking a printed copy of the articles of war,
he read aloud a few lines, which denounced the judgment of a
court-martial on any person who should be guilty of some particular offence, the nature of which I did not understand.  This
done, he ordered Edward Williams to strip; adding,' You have
been guilty of neglect of duty, sir, in not laying in off the foretopsail yard when the first lieutenant ordered you; and I will give
you a d —d good flogging.' By this time the poor fellow had
taken off his jacket and shirt, which was thrown over his
shoulders by the master-at-arms, while two quartermasters lashed
the poor fellow's elbows to the gratings, so that he could not stir
beyond an inch or two either way. It was in vain that he begged.
and besought the captain and first lieutenant to forgive him;
protesting that he did not hear himself called, in consequence of
having a bad cold, which rendered him almost deaf. His en~treaties were unheeded; and at the words,'Boatswain's mate,
give him a dozen,' a tall, strong fellow came forward with a cato'-nine-tails, and, having taken off his own jacket, and carefully
measured his distance, so as to be able to strike with the full
swing of his arm, he flung the tails of the cat around his head,




THE CAT-O -NINE TAILS.                 17
and with all the energy of his body brought them down upon the
fair, white, plump back of poor Williams. A sudden jerk of the poor
fellow almost tore away the gratings from their position; he gave
a scream of agony, and again begged the captain, for the sake of
Jesus Christ, to let him off. I was horror-struck on seeing nine
large welts, as big as my fingers, raised on his back, spreading
from his shoulder-blades nearly to his loins; but my feelings
were doomed to be still more harrowed.  For as soon as the tall
boatswain's mate had completed the task of running his fingers
through the cords to clear them and prevent the chance of a
single lash being spared the wretched sufferer, he again flung
them around his head to repeat the blow. Another slashing
sound upon the naked flesh, another shriek and struggle to get
free succeeded, —and then another and another, till the complement of twelve agonizing lashes was completed.  The back was,
by this time, nearly covered with deep red gashes; the skin
roughed up and curled in many parts, as it does when a violent
blow causes an extensive abrasion.  The poor man looked up
with an imploring eye toward the first lieutenant, and groaned
out,' Indeed, sir, as I hope to be saved, I did not hear you call
me.' The only reply was on the part of the captain, who gave
the word,'another boatswain's mate!'Oh, God, sir, have
mercy on me i' was again the cry of the poor man:'Boatswain's mate, go on; and mind that you do your duty!' the
only answer.
"The effect of one hundred and eight cuts upon his bare
back had rendered it a fearful sight, but when these had been
repeated with all the vigor of a fresh and untired arm, the poor
fellow exhibited a sad spectacle indeed.  The dark red of the
wounds had assumed a livid purple, the flesh stood up in mangled
ridges, and the blood trickled here and there like the breaking
out of an old wound. The pipes of the boatswain and his mates
now sounded, and they called' all hands up anchor!' The gratings were'quickly removed, and of all the human beings who had
witnessed the cruel torture on the body of poor Edward Wil



18                BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
liams, not one seemed in the slightest degree affected. All was
bustle and activity and apparent merriment as they went to work
in obedience to the call."
In this account there is no exaggeration: no exaggeration of
the usual manner of inflicting such punishment; no exaggeration
of the trivialty of the alleged offence; no exaggeration of the
earnest asseveration of innocence; no exaggeration of. the hardening effect of the scene upon the spectators. I have known men
to be thus flogged for acts or omissions equally if not more trivial
-not only singly, but, in one instance at least, a dozen at a time,
and that, too, where it was known that one only of the number
was really in fault.  Because some one of a quarter watch in
the top did a careless and lubberly thing, in the estimation of
an officer, though doubtless, from the circumstances of the case,
accidentally, and none of his topmates would give up his name,
the whole watch were ordered on deck, and, in succession, received a dozen lashes each.
The entire experience of the writer of the above account, as
to this punishment, corroborates fully the opinion I have formed
from my own observation as to its effects-that in all its bearings
it has a tendency to demoralize and harden rather than to
reform.  Ie proceeds to state that the captain under whose command the case of flogging described occurred, changed ships not
long afterwards with one who abominated the system of corporal
punishment; and adds, "For four years I served under his
orders, and witnessed no more of the inhuman practice.  The
men were allowed to go on shore frequently sixty and seventy at
a time, and in all respects were treated so kindly that but one
case of desertion occurred during all that period. The captain
made it a point to visit the whole crew when at dinner, to
see, himself, that they had every thing they required to make
them  comfortable.  This he did every day; and the sick were
always fed from his own table.  The result of this was that our
ship was the smartest frigate on the station, and fought one of
the most glorious actions which ever graced the annals of the
British Navv."




MORAL EFFECTS OF THE LASH.                  19
His experience in the matter did not end here.  IHe thus proceeds: "' I joined another ship, the captain of which was wont to
say,' I never forgive a first offence-for if there was no first offence
there could be no second.' Profane swearing and drunkenness,
he never by any accident forgave.  The result was a flogging
match every Monday morning, and very frequently once or twice
in the week besides. The crew grew worse and worse from this
treatment, till, at length, there was scarcely a sober seaman or
marine on board the ship, though her complement was about six
hundred men and boys.  The more drunken they became the
more he flogged them; but thile crime and punishment seemed to
react on each other, and the ship became at last so very notorious
for the cat that lie was jested upon it by his fellow captains, and
the men deserted at every opportunity."
I believe the experience, thus presented, of these two ships, to
be a fair exposition of the general and direct tendency of the
two systems.  Revolting as punishment with the' colt' and' cat'
ever has been to me, and often as my blood has been made to
boil in witnessing it, a want of practical knowledge in the case led
me, for a time, reluctantly to acquiesce in the opinion universally
held, so far as I could discover, by those most experienced in
naval rule, that it was indispensable as a means of discipline on
board a man-of-war.  But the teachings of my nature, that this
is an error, have been corroborated by long observation; and
had no previous conviction of this been fastened on my mind, the
success of the executive officer of the Congress in devising and
substituting more humanizing modes of punishment for transgressions of law and delinquencies in duty, would have gone far
in persuading me to it.  I doubt not that should the law of the
lash be abrogated by our national legislature to-morrow," and the
change be met by the enactment of a wise and philanthropic code
of naval rule, the discipline and efficiency of the service would
be more perfect than ever before.
* Flogging was abolished, both in the navy and mercantile marine, a few
months after the above was written.




20                BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
June 24th."The twilight is sad and cloudy,
The wind blows wild and free,
And like the wings of sea-birds
Flash the white caps of the sea."
So sings Longfellow, and such is the imagery around us from
the passing of a heavy squall.  The rushing wind and the
dampness brought with it, from the approaching rain, are welcome and most refreshing, after two or three days and nights on
the south side of Cuba, sultry almost to suffocation.  Whether
correct in our recollections or not, all hands agree that, in no part
of the world in which we have been, either on land or at sea,
have we before suffered so much from the intensity of the heat.
Notwithstanding, I was never in the enjoyment of more vigorous
health or in more elastic spirits.
In the afternoon of my last date, we had a distant view of a
part of the island of Jamaica, as well as of San Domingo and
Cuba: a sail, too, was in sight, and the smoke of a steamer
marked on the horizon —all taking much'from the solitariness of
our position.  The next morning we were slowly advancing westward, along the lofty, but mist covered and cloud obscured
mountain range of the Sierra de Cobra, beneath a point in which
lie the port and city of St. Jago de Cuba.  At sunset the same
evening we were directly abreast Cape de Cruz, in full view of the
coast, but at too great a distance to make out the distinctive
features of the landscape, even with the best glasses.  We are
now off the Isle of Pines, framed in the annals of the Buccaneers
of the olden time, and a haunt of pirates in our own day.
Light and baffling winds, with alternate calms, have made our
progress slow.  The tedium of the time has been relieved in part
by a first interchange of dinner parties between the wardroom
mess and the commodore and captain.  The kindest feeling exists
amnong the officers of all grades on board, and these reunions,
where the formality of official intercourse gives place for the time




EVENING SCENES ON BOARD.                 21
to the free interchange of thought and feeling, and of sympathy
in intellect and taste, are salutary in their influences on both
mind and heart.  The Sabbath is the day usually chosen on board
a man-of-war for these courtesies; but it has been unanimously
decided, by our mess, that the entertainments. given in the wardroom shall be on a week day.
During the continuance of moonlight in the evening and
early part of the night, the enjoyment of it on deck in quiet
musings, after the heat of the day, seemed the prevailing mood of
the ship's company.  The band in whole or in part, at times,
added music to the sympathies which were sending our thoughts
and affections homeward by the way of the moon. But now tlat
she is on the wane, and reserves her beams for the later watches
of the night, the sailors cheer themselves in the darkness, by
singing on the spar-deck, grouped in their respective limits from
the fife-rail to the forecastle.  Last evening, even the quarterdeck was invaded, under the sanction of an officer, by a party
of negro minstrels: not such mock performers as are heard on
shore under the name, but of the genuine type, consisting of the
servants of the wardroom. For half an hour or more they sang,
in practised harmony and with effect, many of the more sentimental and popular of the negro melodies; while forward and in the
gangways there was echoed forth, in varied song, the feats of
warrior knights and the love of ladies fair.  Others of the crew
were, at the same time, listening in groups between the guns along
the entire deck, to a rehearsal by their shipmates of tragic stories
of shipwreck, piracy and murder; to recitations from  tragedies
and comedies; to close arguments on various topics —navigation and seamanship, politics, morals and religion —and, at one
point, to a lecture on history, of which I overheard enough to
learn the subject to be the life and achievements of the brave
Wallace, dilated upon in the broad dialect of the " land o'
cakes I'
Light-heartedness and contentment seem every where to pre



22               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
vail, and all manifest by their conduct, as well as by word, that
they feel themselves to be on board a favored ship.
Had I time for the record, you would be amused by many
things I hourly hear and see, in my walks of leisure.  To-day,
while on the quarter-deck after the men's dinner, I overheard one
of the messenger boys, who had just come from this meal, say to
a companion, " I tell you what, Jim, I couldn't eat much of that
dinner: old mahogany and hard tack, is what I call pretty tough
eating.  To-morrow too is bean day, and I wouldn't give a penny
for a bushel of them." A sprightly young sailor who completed
an apprenticeship in the service, happening to pass at the time,
stopped for a moment, and with an assumed air of indignant reproof, exclaimed, "Why, you ungrateful young cub! —you growling at Uncle Sam's grub? why you ought to be down upon your
knees thanking God that you have so good an uncle to give you
any thing 1 "
Just afterwards, I fell into conversation with an old salt who
had been with me, in the Delaware line-of-battle ship, in 1833.
After mutual inquiries of various officers and men who were
shipmates with us then; what had become of this one and
what of that-he said, in all honesty of heart, and with a most
lugubrious expression of face, " And there was Lieut. M
too: they tell me, sir, h7e stepped out entirely, the other day at
the Hospital! "-meaning that he had died there. I never
heard the expression in such a connection before, and could not
avoid being struck, not only with its oddity, but also with its force.
June 29th/.-Just at nightfall, on my last date, we doubled
Cape Antonio, the extreme westerly point of Cuba, at a distance
of ten or twelve miles. It is long and low, covered with dark
woods, and, in general aspect, not unlike the coasts of Long
Island and New Jersey, as seen from the sea. As soon as our
course was turned northward for Havana, the regular wind
became adverse to us, and the next morning we were in the
Florida Channel, far from the land and a hundred miles and more
from our port. The tediousness of a dead beat to windward was




SCENES OFF HAVANA.                     23
relieved, however, by the greater freshness and elasticity of the
air, in comparison with that on the south side of Cuba.  For two
or three evenings, here, the sunsets were among the most gorgeous
i recollect.  The whole western hemisphere, filled with fantastic
and richly colored clouds, glowed with a brilliancy and glare of
crimson light, as if the entire sea beneath were one vast bed of
volcanic fire.
After two days we again made the land, with fine views during
the afternoon, of two lofty ranges of mountains in the interior
of the island-the Sierra del Rosario and the Sierra de los
Organos or Organ mountains; but it was not till last night that
we reached the parallel of Havana. At 10 o'clock the Moro light,
at the entrance of the port, was descried, some fifteen miles distant.  Its brilliant flashings, through the darkness of an unsettled sky, came cheerily upon the sight over the troubled water,
in the assurance they gave of our true position, amid the changing
currents and hazardous navigation of these straits.
Before daybreak this morning we fell in with and spoke the
sloop-of-war Germantown, Captain Lowndes, cruising off the
harbor. I was early on deck. The morning was fresh and
beautiful, but the shores less bold and striking than I had anticipated; and the mountains in view were more remote. Still the
landscape was pleasing in its verdure, though neither varied nor
picturesque in its outline.  Having been lying to for the night,
we were still eight or ten miles from the entrance of the harbor;
but the Moro Castle and city were in distinct view-the former,
surmounted by its pharos towering loftily on a precipitous cliff
of rock on the left of the entrance, and the latter stretching
beneath it to the right, in a long line of whiteness on a level with
the sea.
The scene increased momentarily in interest.  A fresh tradewind, creating a sea which, in the brightness of the sun, tossed
up jets of diamonds on every side, hurried us rapidly forward,
under topsails and topgallant-sails only: the Germantown, a
beautiful craft, followed closely in our wake, fluttering over the




24                BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
water with the lightness and buoyancy of a bird.  There were
besides some eight or ten square-rigged merchant vessels in sight,
under various degrees of sail —some entering and others leaving
port. While in the midst of these, the Germantown and Congress
interchanged salutes, with pretty effect on the general picture.
The wind had now increased to a half gale; a pilot had
boarded us, and we bore away with a rush for the Moro, which
immediately overhangs the entrance to the port. This is narrow
— very narrow; seemingly a mere creek, a few ships' length only
in width. It runs at right angles with the line of coast along which
we were flying.  This made it necessary in entering, to haul
suddenly, from a free course, closely on the wind.  We did so, at
the speed of a race-horse, almost grazing the surf-lashed rocks
over which tower the frowning battlements of the Moro, and
within biscuit throw, as it were, of the batteries of the Punta on
the opposite side —the pilot, momentarily alternating the exclamation "Hard a port! " " Hard a starboard! " " Steadysteady! "  kept the men at the helm  on the full spring in
shifting the wheel from side to side; while at the same time the
yards were filled with the crew reducing sail to bare poles, as if
by magic, under the trumpet orders of the first lieutenant.  I
thought it one of the most exciting moments, and one of the most
beautiful sights, in the navigation of so large a ship, I had ever
witnessed.
In less time than is required thus to state it, we were transferred from the tossings of a rough sea, to the glassy surface of
an apparent river.  The scene on either hand was picturesque and
animated. On one side, were the terraced heights adjoining the
Moro, grim with the defences of war, relieved here and there by
sentries and groups of soldiers, lounging about the batteries; and,
on the other, level with the water, a range of stone quays, lined
with  shipping  and coasting craft, and covered with sailors,
boatmen, negro porters, and stevedores.   Beyond rose the
buildings of the city, painted in every variety of light and gay
colors, and overtopped by the time-stained domes and towers of




ENTRANCE INTO PORT.                    25
the churches and other public structures. The aspect of the
whole was so entirely transatlantic, that I could scarce resist the
illusion that I was again in old Spain, and that it was'! fair Cadiz"
I saw stretched before me.  The gallantry of our entrance had
attracted the gaze of the thousands crowding the quay in its
whole length, and murmurs of admiration were every where
heard at the beauty of our frigate, and the dashing style in which
she glided rapidly along under the headway brought in by her
from the sea.
At the end of half a mile, the straight and narrow inlet expands into a round basin, five or six miles in circumference. Near
the centre of this we dropped anchor: having the city and its
defences towards the sea on one side of us, and green hills tufted
with palm-trees and dotted with cottages and country seats on
the other. The harbor is a gem of beauty, capable of containing
the navies of half the world.  Five Spanish men-of-war, including a ship-of-the-line, are moored within pistol shot of us, and the
Germantown immediately at our stern. The dropping of the
anchor was followed by salutes from our batteries of twenty-one
guns to the flag of Spain, seventeen to that of the Spanish admiral, in command, and nine in honor of Mr. Campbell, the
American consul, who soon boarded the Congress.
2




CHAPTER III.
HAANLA.
July lst. —The object of a visit by the Congress to Cuba,
before proceeding to her station on the coast of Brazil, is
to bring to a close the negotiations which have been for some
time pending with the authorities here, in reference to our filibustering compatriots, the prisoners of Contoy.
The report made by Captain Lowndes of the Germantown,
on boarding us in the offing, and by Mr. C!ampbell afterwards,
of the state of public feeling in reference to these, and to the
citizens of the United States in general, led us to apprehend
there would be great difficulty in securing an amicable arrangement of the point at issue-the disposition to be made of the
prisoners. The excitement and indignation of the Spanish population of the city, on the subject of the attempted invasion, had
been great; and manifested especially, within a few clays, against
lMr. Campbell, for sentiments on the subject, exposed in a correspondence between him and the Secretary of State, recently
called for by Congress, printed in the newspapers in the United
States, and republished here. At one time the consulate was
believed to be in great danger of violence from the mob; and
the excitement is still far from being allayed. In view of this
representation we apprehended a long delay. The first interview,
however, between Commodore McKeever and the captain-general, the Conde d'Alcoy, relieved us from all fear of this. Every
disposition was manifested to receive favorably the mission of the




CHIEF OF POLICE, AND CAPTAIN-GENERAL.            27
Congress; and the belief is that the special matter of negotia.
tion will be speedily adjusted.
The commodore and suite were received, at the vice-regal
palace, in the most frank and cordial manner, and the personal
relations of the treating parties placed, at once, on a friendly
footing. The governor-general treated lightly the fear that had
been suggested, of violence to the consulate, avowing that all
property and life in the city and island were in the keeping of
the government; and that safety in both was more sure tonone,
than to the representatives and citizens of the United States.
Summoning the chief of police at once to his presence, the following dialogue in substance took place between them. " Have
you heard, sir, of an apprehended attack by the populace upon
the American consulate? " "No, sir."  " Do you believe, sir,
that any such danger exists? "  " No, sir."  " Could a project
of the kind be in agitation without your knowledge? ". "No,
sir." " See to it, sir," added the count, with an intonation of voice
not to be mistaken, as he dismissed the functionary, " that
nothing of the kind takes place!"
The truth is, the warmth of sympathy felt by some of our
fellow-citizens for the would-be revolutionists within Cuba and the
marauding filibusters without, backed by visions of national and
it may be personal aggrandizement, through annexation, lead
them to magnify every grievance imaginary or real, and to fan
into a flame each spark of ill will elicited by the collisions that
occur, in the hope of embroiling our government with the crown
of Spain; and, through conflict and conquest, of making sure
to us this choicest gem left in her colonial tiara.
That the Cubans are most fearfully oppressed by the viceregal rulers here, and that the government under which they suffer
is the most rigorous military despotism in the civilized world, no
one with the slightest knowledge of the condition of the island can
doubt. The simple fact that twenty-four millions of dollars are
annually wrung, by various forms of taxation, from a white population of little more than six hundred thousand, proves it, with



28                BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
out an enumeration of the different unjust monopolies, the prohibitory imposts upon the first necessaries of life, the depreciating
levies on all the products of labor, and the vampire presence of
a foreign soldiery, sufficient to furnish a constant sentinel, it is
said, to every four white men in the country; or, a reference to the
fact that there are no common schools —no liberty of the press,
no liberty of speech, and scarce the liberty of thought.  Still,
sad as the truth of such a condition is, it does not justify piratical invasion from without, or agitating and revolutionizing influence on our part within.
The probability is. that the stay of the Congress will be very
brief; and that, consequently, my personal knowledge of Havana
and the Habaneros will be limited to a hasty glance, through such
loop-holes of observation as I may accidentally light upon.
The beauty of the panorama from the anchorage is so varied
and so striking, that in the enjoyment of it, I have been satisfied thus far without a visit to the shore, though this is the third
day, including the Sabbath, since our arrival.  While examining
closely with a glass again and again, every feature of the open
country to the east and south, I could but indulge in many a reminiscence of tropical life at the Sandwich Islands and South
Seas, awakened by the plumed palm and broad-leafed banana,
the brightly gleaming hill sides and velvet-like slopes characteristic of the scenery.  On the opposite sides of the harbor, the
city and its fortresses,-its private dwellings and public buildings,
its towers and domes and embattled walls,-are open to like inspection through the same medium, a sea-telescope of surpassing
excellence.
While in the midst of these observations this morning,
screened from the mid-day sun by the well-spread awnings of the
poop-deck, my attention was drawn to a movement near at hand
on board, occasioned by a succession of visits of ceremony from
the " powers that be " in this viceroyal dependency, to our commander-in-chief and our captain.  I am told, whether correctly
or not, that the same policy which of yore prevented Ferdinand




VISITS OF CEREMONY.                   29
and Isabella from keeping faith with Columbus, in his appointment as viceroy of the New World with undivided power, is
still adhered to by the Spanish throne. The supreme authority,
in place of being vested in one representative of the crown, is
distributed among three-one at the head of the civil affairs,
another chief in those that are military, and a third supreme in
the control of the marine. Each is in his own department independent of the other, and keeps check on his compeers in any
assumption of undue authority. The captain-general, however,
has precedence in matters of ceremony, and is the nominal head
of the government.  He does not visit vessels of war, and the
courtesy on his part is expressed through an aide-de-camp. The
visitor in his stead on this occasion, was the Conde Villeneuva,
a fine-looking young man, in a richly embroidered dress of blue
and silver, but without military decorations. He had scarcely
been ushered on the deck, with the usual ceremony, when a
barge, still more stately in the number of its oarsmen and the
dimensions of its banner of " blood and gold," than that by
which he had arrived, was reported by the quarter-master. This
bore the Intendante, or Military Chief, who crossed the gangway
in full costume, with a magnificent star on the breast and three or
four crosses and badges of knighthood at the button holes. Neither name nor title was announced with sufficient distinctness to
be heard, and in view of the number and brilliancy of his decorations, I felt authorized in giving him precedence of the count,
by at least one grade- in the peerage, and set him down for a
marquis: especially as the state in which the next dignitary
approached would lead to the supposition that he could be nothing less than a duke-a grandee of the first rank.  He came in
a superb sixteen-oared. barge of the purest white, picked out in
gold. He was a most stately old gentleman, portly in person,
fresh in complexion for a Spaniard, and of the most courtier-like
and finished manners. Three magnificently jewelled stars decorated his left breast, with the crosses of twice as many orders
pendant beneath, and over all the broad ribbon and insignia of




30               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
the Golden Fleece. It was the Commandant-general of Marine,
or Naval Chieftain. These visits of mere ceremony were brief,
referring in conversation to the most common-place topics, followed by a departure in the order of arrival.
The weather since we have been here has been like that of the
finest days in June on the Hudson: the sun very hot, the sky
glowingly bright, the breeze fresh and seemingly pure, with heavy
showers occasionally in the afternoons. In the evenings and at
night the scene from  shipboard is striking and impressive.
Long lines of brilliant gas-lights, marking the walls of the city
abreast of us, with the gleamings of others from fortress and
tower reflected by the glassy waters of the bay in streams of
gold, and a glorious canopy of sparkling stars above, compensate
in a degree for the absence of the moon; while a fine military
band stationed on the ramparts nearly opposite us discourses eloquently, till nine o'clock, the compositions of the masters in
opera.
July 8th. —My first visit on shore was in company with my
messmate F —-, after the heat of the day had begun to pass.
The low quiays of a yellowish stone which face the water, are
thickly lined with the smaller craft, engaged in the commerce of
the port. We made our way along these for some distance,
through an atmosphere redolent of tar and pitch and cordagecoffee and tobacco,-amid soldiers and sailors and throngs of
brawny negroes, more than half naked and reeking with perspiration, in the labor of loading and unloading cargoes.  On
turning into a narrow street leading into the city, we soon discovered, that the buildings which from our moorings meet the
eye so strikingly in their gay tintings of sky-blue, pea-green,
peach-blossom, lemon and straw colors, with their melrdings, cornices and balustrades of the purest white, are thick:- interspersed with others, dingy, shabby, decayed and dirty: barn-i;?:c
stable-like and prison-like.  To an untravelled visitor from the
Northern States, this last characteristic would be the first peculiarity in the aspect of the houses to attract his attention. Every




DRIVE IN VOLANTE.                    31
man's dwelling here is literally his castle, the defences of which
give to its exterior, on the ground floor especially, the appearance
of a jail at home. The heavy doors opening on the street, are
of the most massive make, and bossed and studded with iron so as
to be bullet-proof, while the lower windows are universally guarded from top to bottom by strong bars and network of the same
material.  The general style of building is the Spanish-Morescan,
many of the dwellings being only one story in height. The
streets are straight and regular, but very narrow, scarcely admitting two vehicles to pass each other, while the sidewalks, as termed
by us, are on a level with the way for carriages, and a foot or
eighteen inches only in width.
A  short walk from the point at which we left the quay,
brought us upon a small but pretty and artistic square, called the
Plaza de Armas. It is enclosed with a handsome iron railing, is
regularly laid out in walks, bordered with gay flowers and
shrubbery overhung by the silvery trunks and long pendant'kranches of the palm-tree, and ornamented in the centre with a
folntain and statue of Ferdinand VII. of Spain.  Its southern side is faced in its whole length by the palace of the governorgeneral, a spacious and handsome quadrangular structure of stone,
stuccoed and painted sky-blue, with pilasters, cornice and balustrade around its flat roof, of white.
Our chief object in going on shore was the enjoyment of a
drive outside the walls. The vicinity of the Plaza furnished us
with the opportunity of a choice of equipage for the purpose. Lines
and groups of vehicles were standing along its sides and at the corners. An omnibus of American fashion and manufacture was seen
on its route, and a carriage of modern style passing here and
there, but those on the stand-were exclusively the common vehicle
of the city and country, the volante-a two-wheeled clumsy-looking machine of by-gone times drawn on ordinary occasions by
one horse. The body is larger than that of an American gig or
chaise, hung very low like an old-fashioned phaeton, and so
delicately poised on springs of great elasticity as to sway about,




32                BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
under the slightest impulse, with a most buoyant and luxurious
motion.
I find even a pen-and-ink sketch so much more satisfactory
than verbal description, in conveying just ideas of novelties such
as this, that I am more than half disposed to attempt one here,
at the double hazard of defacing my paper and bringing in contempt my skill in the arts. I will try it. The experiment is not
quite so successful and effective as I could wish it to be, but it
will answer the purpose.  Do not think it, however, defective in
the proportions exhibited, either in regard to man and beast, or
to the distance of both from  the body of the carriage.  The
wheels in their size and height, in comparison with the top of the
volante, the length of the shafts, and the bulk of the black calesero, or postillion, in contrast with that of the little pony he
bestrides, are all true to the reality, rather underdrawn than
exaggerated. You must not suppose either that the little horse
is without a tail: for though not very distinctly visible in'the
sketch, the tail is there; neatly plaited and closely twisted round
the hip, like the braid of a lady's hair around her ear, and made
fast by a gay ribbon to the postillion's saddle.
The colors of these carriages, in body, shafts and wheels, are
more varied than those of the rainbow: scarlet, yellow, blue,
green-in endless tintings, contrasting showily with mountings
of silver or silver-gilt, in greater or less profusion and massiveness, according to the rank or riches of the owner.  The harness
to our eyes appears complicated and heavy. It also is ornamented more or less elaborately with silver or gilt platings. As to
the postillion, picture to yourself the most perfect personification
of Congo blackness you ever saw, in the form of a stout muscular
negro, with features and heels to match; put him in a very shortwaisted jacket-scarlet, blue, yellow  or parti-colored, and gay
with worsted lace for livery, and into very high riding boots, large
enough for Goliath, and with the sketch, you will have a tolerable
idea of the equipage in which Fa-  and I set off from the Caf6




PASEO AND CHAMPS DE MATRS.                 33
Dominica, not far from the Plaza de Armas, for a drive in the
suburbs.
At the end of a half mile, it may be, through the narrow
streets, with shops and counting-rooms and dwellings on either
side, widely open and within reaching distance by the hand, we
came to the principal gateway in the western walls, leading directly
upon the Paseo de Isabella II., the fashionable promenade and
drive without the walls: the Hyde Park and Champs Elysee of
the Habaneros. This extends the whole length of the western side
of the city, and is garden-like and beautiful in its trees, shrubbery
and flowers. Two broad carriage ways run from end to end with
four or more gravelled walks between them; a fountain ornaments
either extremity, and in the centre is a statuette of Isabella II.,
erected shortly after her succession when a child: the more welcome from associations of purity and innocence, which an image
of her majesty in later years would be little calculated to suggest.
A range of stately buildings on the west, faces and overlooks
this point of aristocratic and fashionable reunion: an opera house
and palatial caf6 with other imposing structures, giving quite a
metropolitan air to the scene.  The first two mentioned bear the
name of Tacon, in honor of the captain-general of that name,
during whose rule they were built, and whose administration a,
few years ago, was distinguished by such signal reforms in the
police of the city, and the entire suppression of the cut-throat
outrages before so common.  The enlarged views, public spirit,
energy and determination which characterized his measures,
stamped his name indelibly on the city; and to these is the population indebted, not only for the effectual suppression of crime,
but for much also of the ornamental architecture which it boasts.
South of the Paseo is the Champ de Mars, an extensive
parade ground, lined with spacious barracks and other governmental buildings. Passing these we drove three or four miles
over a broad and well-kept macadamized avenue, filled with
animated life in every form, and lined with suburban residences
luxuriant in the richness and beauty of tropical growth in tree,
2*




34                BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
shrub and flower: all in such wide contrast with scenes witnessed
in a drive of like length in the suburbs of a city with us, as
to excite the wonder, why more of our citizens of wealth and
leisure do not take the short trip to Havana in the winter, to be
amused and instructed by its novelties, and charmed by the
blandness of its climate and the splendor of its vegetable life.
Although the soil in this section of the island is of an inferior
quality to that of most other regions, there are evidences on every
hand of the richness and beauty which have secured to Cuba the
proud and winning title of 1" Queen of the Antilles," and make
her the choicest colonial possession left to Spain.
From the heat of the climate, the construction of the houses,
in general, is such as to make them little more than so many open
pavilions, from which as you drive by, you unavoidably catch not
only the
"Manners living as they rise,"
but many, if not all, the habits of life of the inmates. The eye
penetrates at a glance, as it were, the entire domestic economy
of the household.  The dwellings are, for the most part, one
story only in height, with a tower or mirador at one end or
corner, for a " look-out." Externally they seem all door and
window. These are very wide, and extend from the ceiling to the
floor, on a level with the street. Thrown widely open in the
cool of the day, the interior becomes fully exposed: furniture
and inmates-the whole family group in full dress or dishabille
as the case may be-a scene on the stage of life, as open to inspection as one from a drama on the boards of a theatre. This is
as true of the dwellings of the rich as of the poor. In seeing
the whole diagram of the interior thus exposed without any
appearance of bed or bedroom, the wonder in my mind was where
the people could sleep? On expressing some curiosity on this
point, I was told that in many cases, the beds of the family consist of mats or mattresses, spread at night on the floor, or in cots




EVENING PROMENADE.                    35
in the reception-rooms, while in most houses an inner court is
encircled by small sleeping and dressing-rooms.
Many of the residences of the gentry and moneyed aristocracy
in the suburbs are luxurious and princely; exhibiting long suites
of spacious and elegantly furnished apartments, with floors of
polished marble and the oriental luxury of jetting fountains and
clustering flowers, endless in the variety of their tint and perfume. The gardens attached to some of these are laid out with
taste, and kept in the nicest order, filled with an exuberance of
choice plants known to us at the North only in the dwarfish and
stunted growth of the conservatory. Indeed, many which are
cherished exotics with us, are here seen in rank profusion in the
hedges and by the roadside, like the thorn and the thistle of our
ruder climate.
By the time of our return, the hour for the drive and promenade of the citizens had arrived; and, as we approached the
Paseo, we were met and passed by great numbers of equipages
of varied style. Some were altogether American and European
in their appointments; but most were the native volante in
greater or less elegance and richness-some with one horse only,
and others with two. When two are used, the second is placed
abreast of the one in the shafts and ridden by the calesero.
Each carriage contained from one to three females, in full dress
as if at a party-low necks and very short sleeves: to which
may be added, very fat figures and very dark skins. Bonnets
are not worn of course with this costume, nor indeed with any
other. The coiffure at, this season is of ribbons, gauzes, laces and
other zephyr-like materials, with flowers and jewelry; but, in the
winter, I am told, these give place to head-dresses of velvet and
satin, with ostrich plumes, pearls and diamonds. As the volantes
pass and repass along the carriage drive, salutations are exchanged
between the ladies in the vehicles with each other, and with
acquaintances and friends among the gentlemen on foot or on
horseback, by the eyes, the fan and hat, more than with the
voice; but, so far as I observed, the ladies did not alight as is




36               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
the custom in Europe in many places of the kind, to join in the
promenade on foot, or form groups for conversation. At nightfall there is a return to the city, where, for an hour or two, the
ladies amuse themselves in driving from  shop to shop, to have
such articles as they ask for brought to their carriages for inspection, or, proceeding to the Plaza de Armas,-again join their
associates of the beau monde in display and flirtation by lamplight or moonlight as the case may be, while a regimental band in
front of the governmental palace gives a free concert of ilstrumental music till nine o'clock. The evening on this occasion was
delightful, and we prolonged our stay and observations till that hour.
So well pleased was F — as well as I with this first peep
on shore, that we repeated the visit two days after, driving as far
as the Bishop's garden, the principal attraction of the kind in
the neighborhood of the city. Since then there has been much
heavy rain. The trade wind' at the same time ceased, causing a
closeness of atmosphere that has been very oppressive, and made
me more than content to remain for the most part quietly on
board ship: I say for the most part, for I went once into the
city, on a solitary pilgrimage to the tomb of the good and great,
and ever to be honored, discoverer of the New World.  As you
know, his remains were removed at intervals of time of various
length, from  Valladolid where he died, to Seville, and from
Seville to St. Domingo, the resting-place designated for them in
his will.  On the cession of that island to France in 1796, they
were brought to Cuba, and deposited with great ceremony in the
cathedral of Havana. A  medallion likeness in marble, with a
short inscription on a mural tablet, marks the spot in the chancel near the high altar where they have found, as it is to be hoped,
a lasting sepulchre.  No American can stand near them  unmoved: or without a recurrence in thought to the sublime vision
of an unknown world, which so long filled the mind, and amid
endless discouragements and disappointments sustained the hopes
and energies of the adventurous navigator, till it issued in a
glorious reality; or without deep sympathy in the vicissi



VISIT TO REGLA,                     37
tudes and trials of his after life, and the neglect and injustice
which brought his gray hairs with sorrow to the tomb.  Near by
are exhibited-I was about to say the ignominious, but I recall
the  epithet —the ennobled fetters with which  an ungrateful
monarch permitted a jealous rival and enemy to manacle his
limbs.
On another occasion I left the ship after night, for a row
across the harbor with Lieut. T —  in his gig.  It had been
our intention to pass the evening in the city, in a visit to some
families of his acquaintance to whom he wished to introduce me,
but the heat and dampness of a debilitating and sickening atmosphere during the day, determined us to postpone this till the
return of a more invigorating and elastic air. Our row was from
the anchorage of the men-of-war through that of the merchant
ships, at another point in the harbor, to a landing near the town of
Regla opposite the city; a place of no enviable notoriety, in times
past, as a kind of city of refuge through the indulgent winkings
of government officials, first for the pirates who once infested
these regions, and more recently for dealers in the slave trade.
Here also is one of the principal amphitheatres for the exhibition _of the favorite national amusement, the bull fight.  The
special object of the trip, on the part of my companion, had some
reference to the disposition of the slush of the Congress, if you
can comprehend the import of so elegant a term in a ship's economy: mine partly the pleasure of his company, and partly to
inquire the state of the sick in a private hospital for cases of
yellow fever, and to learn the practicability of visiting any
American seamen, who.might be suffering there from this pest of
Havana, already beginning its annual ravages.
The night was very dark for a tropical region, and the most
striking imagery discernible, as we threaded our way amidst the
shipping, was the black masses of spars and rigging pencilled
against the sky above us; the long line of brilliant lights marking the walls of the city reflected in streams of fire on the
glassy water; and the alternate dim  glimmlerings and blinding




38               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
flashes of the revolving pharos, surmounting the lofty tower of the
Moro.
Jzely 10th.-Bright weather has returned, and with it the
regular trade wind from the sea. We rejoice in this, not only
from the greater comfort it insures, but also from the promise it
holds out of continued health in our ship's company. The
change induced Lieut. T —  and myself to make our contemplated visit on shore last evening. For a couple of hours before
nightfall, we drove in a volante a circuit of some miles through
the environs, amid scenes and scenery of unceasing novelty and
endless variety, embracing the attractive and beautiful; the
grotesque and ludicrous; elegance and magnificence, filth, nakedness and degradation, strangely commingled.  Here, a splendid
equipage as perfect in its appointments as any to be met in New
York or London; there, a vehicle as rude and clumsy as if belonging to the birthday of invention.  Here a cabalero admirably
mounted, riding a blooded horse with all the stately solemnity of
a grandee of the first order; there, a negro or montero, in rags
and half nakedness urging onward, at a most sorry pace, as
broken down a skeleton of a pony or jackass as ever contrived
to put one foot before another.  Here a squad of well-equipped
soldiers; there a gang of manacled and ruffian-looking galleyslaves-thus without end, exciting alternate admiration and disgust, smiles and pity. Before commencing the visits of the
evening, we took a bird's-eye view of the fashionable movements
in the Paseo, from the upper balconies of the Caf6 Tacon which
overlook it, and of the magnificent panorama of the city, the surrounding country, and the sea, commanded from the leads of its
flat roof, and then proceeded to meet an engagement at the consulate for tea.
July 11th.-It has been known for two or three days past,
that the object of our visit was well nigh accomplished, and that
the prisoners of Contoy were to be delivered to the keeping of
our flag, on the condition of their immediate transportation to
the United States. The U. S. steamer Vixen came into port




THE CAPTIVE FILIBUSTERS.                 39
yesterday, bringing Commodore Morris as an additional agent of
our government in the negotiation of this matter, but too late for
the object of his mission, the work being already done.
At twelve o'clock this morning, the prisoners were brought
on board the Congress in the boats of the Spanish ship-of-the-line
near us. They are some forty-two or three in number, appearing
a sorry-looking set of adventurers indeed, as they crossed the
ship's sides to be mustered in the gangways, and turned over to
our charge by the Spanish officer bringing them. Most of them
are young —many mere boys-and a majority evidently scapegraces, including a few wild-looking, muscular and wiry Western
men, tall Kentuckians and Mississippi black-legs.  They have
been well fed and well taken care of, it is said; but they all
looked pale, and some seemed nervously agitated.  This is to be
attributed, it is probable, to the uncertainty till the very moment,
of the result of the sudden summons they had received from
their keepers to prepare for some event of which they were kept
ignorant, and which they had more reason to fear might be
death under the fire of a platoon of soldiers, than liberty
beneath the flag of their country. During their captivity they
had been denied all intercourse with others, and had no means
of learning their probable fate.  At times, the most intelligent among them had been subject to threats of immediate
execution, seemingly in the hope of extorting some confession
differing from the general attestation, that they had been entrapped into the expedition, under a contract of being conveyed
to the isthmus, on their way to California, and on discovering
the imposition had refused to take part in the attempted invasion.
The most cheering hopes that had reached them were derived
from the salutes, in honor of the 4th of July. They inferred
from these the presence of American men-of-war of heavy metal,
and that their case was neither forgotten nor neglected by the
American government. I well recollect thinking and feeling,
at the time, that the repeated thunder of the heavy batteries of
the Congress, from sunrise to sunset on that day, re-echoed by all




40               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
the men-of-war in port, must have brought them  hope with
no uncertain sound, whether it reached their ears in the hold
of the guard-ship or the dungeons of the Moro castle: for even
the place of their confinement was withheld from us. At three
o'clock this afternoon, the whole number was transferred to the
sloop-of-war Albany, for passage to Pensacola.  She is to sail
to-morrow morning at daybreak, and it is announced that the
Congress will leave the harbor in company with her, and proceed
to her destination on the coast of Brazil.
Great credit is due to Commodore MIcKeever for the speedy
adjustment of this difficulty.  His'courteousness and amenity at
once made smooth the way to negotiation. He is a man of peacefulness and good will, more disposed to pour the oil of kindness
on troubled waters than to cast in any new element of agitation,
and to his firmness and gentleness combined, are to be attributed
the early and desirable result attained.
Thus terminates this filibustering invasion of Cuba. But is
it the end? The enterprise, as projected and fitted out, was most
ill-judged and piratical. But is it true that its origin and means
of equipment were entirely from abroad? Is there no deep
sympathy with such an adventure among the Creole inhabitants
of the island themselves? Is the spirit of patriotism and of
liberty here dead? Are there no groanings beneath the galling
chains of a cruel and grinding despotism? No sense of degradation, no purpose to be free, among the intelligent and aspiring
of the native population?  It is impossible that there should
not be. The prosperity and the glory of the unfettered nation
immediately facing them are too near, and too brilliant, not to be
reflected eventually in attractive splendor, through every valley,
and over every mountain top of this gem  of the seas.  An
atmosphere of freedom so near, must impart something of its
elasticity and its power even to the depressing vapors of such a
despotism. The Cuban in his summer visits of business or of
pleasure to the United States, inhales and carries it back with
him, and the American in his winter sojourn here, insensibly bears




DESTINY OF CUBA.                    41
it wherever he goes. The breath of liberty has been, and will
continue to be inspired by the natives of the island; and unless
the mother country, with timely wisdom, changes her colonial
policy and ameliorates her iron rule, restlessness, agitation and
revolt, must be the issue, and Cuba become independent in selfrule, or free by voluntary annexation to the nation to which,
geographically at least, she rightfully belongs.




CHAPTER IV.
GULF OF FLORIDA.
July 12th.-True to the announcement last night, all hands
were called to weigh anchor at daybreak this morning; and, by
sunrise, under the double impulse of a light land breeze, and the
oars of a long line of man-of-war boats having the Congress in tow,
we made our way, through the narrow entrance of the port, to
the open sea.
Many merchant ships also were taking their departure.  The
shrill calls of the bugle from barrack and fortress; the unfurling
of signal and banner from mast-head, battlement and tower;
strains of military music from different points; the lively movement in all directions of boats and small craft on the water; and
the rising hum of active life from the city, gave exciting animation
to the picture, while the purple hues of the morning and its
balmy breath, added a fresh charm to the whole.
After enjoying the scene till we were outside the harbor, I
went below, intending to return to the deck in time for a farewell
view, not only of the island, but of the Moro castle and city also.
So rapid was our course, however, from a strong current, as well
as a fresh breeze, that, on reaching the poop for this purpose,
"the blue above and the blue below" were alone to be seen; and
undisguised satisfaction was every where manifested that, not only
the sickly, though beautiful port, but the entire island had been
left out of sight behind us.




GULF OF FLORIDA.                     43
The first object that met my eyes this evening, at the close of
our accustomed worship on deck, was the silver crescent of a
new moon beautifully defined in the empurpled sky; and, I interpreted the mild and benignant beamings sent down upon us, from
its young course, as an omen of good in our voyage across the
wide sea.
July 22d, N. Lat. 37~0, W. Long. 590. —We made our way
gently and pleasantly through the Straits of Florida: sighting,
during successive nights, on either sides of the channel, while
making long stretches against a head wind, the lights of Key
West and Sand Key, Carysfort Reef, and Gun Key.  These
numerous beacons speak the perilous navigation of the region.
It is peculiarly the empire of the wreckers, whose lives are spent
in constant search along the reefs, which for two hundred miles
here edge the coast, for the vessels which in great numbers are
yearly cast upon theni by storms, or the treacherous currents of a
calm. The value of the commerce which annually passes through
the Gulf of Florida is estimated at four hundred millions of
dollars, of which not less than half a million, each year, is lost by
shipwreck, notwithstanding the vigilance and prompt exertion of
the amphibious and heroic race, whose business is the rescue of
the lives and property here endangered.
For three days after regaining a latitude which admitted of
plain sailing, we had boisterous weather and a wild sea, but
an unclouded sky. The elastic and invigorating atmosphere attending it, was most welcome after the heats of Cuba. At such
times the ocean, in its ever-varying forms of beauty and changing
shades of prismatic light in the sunshine, often outrivals in attractiveness the still life of a wide-spread landscape on shore.
There is, too, a voice of music breathing over it; for, not less
truthfully than poetically, has it been said of the ocean, there is
"In its sleep a melody,
And in its march a psalm."
Now, however, in place of the
"Restless, seething, stormy sea,"




44                BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
we have on every side an illimitable plainlof the deepest blue,
with scarce a perception of those giant heavings from  beneath,
which ever, in a greater or less degree, tell of an unfathomable
abyss of waters. Over this we are hurried, without a consciousness of motion, at the rate of ten miles the hour, by a breeze as
balmy, if not as fragrant, as the zephyrs of " Araby the blest."'
Add to these surroundings, the moon, at night, riding the heavens
above in sublime tranquillity, and you will not be surprised, if, at
times at least, I am ready with the poet to exclaim"Oh! what pleasant visions haunt me,
As I gaze upon the sea,
All the old romantic legendsAll my dreams come back to me!"
July 29th. —Happily I am not unfitted for mental occupation;
by being on shipboard, as is the case with many, and, with the
prospect of a voyage of fifty or sixty days, I have set myself
closely to work. The early part of the day I give to the graver
studies of my profession, and the later to lighter reading; visits
to the sick, when there are such; exercise on deck with some
fellow-officer; and such " walks of usefulness " as I can light
upon among the crew, in different parts of the ship in the evening,
fill up the intervals of leisure till bed-time.
One of our young officers, Midshipman L, has the misfortune to be incapacitated for duty, by a nervous affection of the
eyes and head, the consequence of three separate attacks of fever
in the Gulf of Mexico.  The surgeons interdict to him  all use
of the eyes; and, to relieve the ennui into which he is thus
thrown, I have invited him to my room for an hour or two every
day, that by my reading aloud he may have the benefit of such
works as I am running over; travels and biography —Maxwell's
Russia, Irving's Mahomet, and the excellent books of Miss
McIntosh, the accomplished sister of the captain of the Congress,
interspersed with those of a more serious character, such as Angell James' "Young Man from Home" and Pike's "Persuasives




INCIDENTS IN THE SICK-BAY.                 45
to Early Piety"-have thus far occupied these hours. The touches
of deep feeling frequently met in the writings of Miss McIntosh,
in her lifelike and instructive delineations of character, have been
the means of bringing into exercise sympathies, the involuntary
betrayal of which to each other, has led to quite an intimate
friendship, considering the disparity of our years.
For a week after leaving port, we had every reason to hope
that it had been with entire impunity, in regard to health, that
we had been exposed to the burning sun, and, at this season of
the year, pestilential air of Havana.  But on the eighth clay, just
as we were congratulating ourselves on the certainty of our escape
from all infection, a light fever made its appearance among both
officers and men. Some dozen in -number were brought down
by it.  It was the yellow  fever, but of so modified a type, that,
in a few days, all were convalescent and no new cases occurred.
Sickness, whether of a serious nature or not, presents an
opportunity of approach, and often gives access to the confidence
which I am careful to improve. I was much interested, a day or
two ago, in an interview with a fine-looking young man of the
crew, under the influence of the prevailing epidemic.  He had
evidently been familiar with better associations than those of a
man-of-war; and, I soon learned from him that he was the prodigal son of a pious mother, by whom he had been carefully trained
and cherished, and was a child of many prayers. The first glance
of his eye, as I approached his cot, told me by the starting tears
-not from alarm, for no danger was apprehended in his case, but
from remembrances of the past-that he was in a state of mind
to open his heart to me; and, in the admissions and confessions
of a long conversation, I became deeply interested in the penitence and purposes of future well-doing which he avowed.
In a hammock near by I found a middle-aged Scotchman, of
intelligent and respectable appearance, who was equally open to
religious conversation.  He told me he had been long deeply
sensible of his guilt and misery as a sinner, and greatly troubled
in mind and conscience; that a conflict -had been going on in his




46               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
soul, as if a good and an evil spirit were ever in contest there for the
mastery over him: but that the good at last had gained the -triumph, and he was " at peace with the Father, through the Son
and Spirit, and feared no evil-not death itself."
August 7th, N. Lat. 120, W. Long. 380.-Delicious seems the
only epithet descriptive of the atmosphere we are now breathing,
and " delicious-delicious! " is the stereotyped exclamation of
every one, as he mounts to the deck from below and drinks in the
pure ether, as if it were the very elixir of life. The morning is
in all respects lovely.  The heavens have a look of infinity.  A
snow-white cloud alone floats here and there in them; and, as,
rushing over the blue sea, before the fresh trade-wind, we dash
the foam widely from  our prow, unnumbered flying fish spring
into the air, and skim the surface of the water before and around
us, like so many birds of silver gleaming brightly in the sun.
August 28th, N. lat. 30 30r, W. Long. 250.-The region,
through which we have been mlaking our way, for the last ten
days, is known among seamen by the very unsentimental name
of the " doldrums."  The origin of the epithet it might be difficult to trace. It is an equatorial belt, characterized by light
weather and head-winds; by alternate calms and squalls, clouds
and rain.  Hence every thing on board and without, is, and has
been, in as wide contrast as possible with that of my last date.
The whole ship is saturated, both on deck and below, with rain,
and the washings of the sea through the ports and hawser-holes.
The air on deck is close and oppressive, and below stifling and
musty, and the tossings and pitchings and rolling of the ship
any thing but agreeable to the fastidious stomachs of many
on board-especially to my friend T ——, who, though familiar for more than twenty years with  the caprices of the
deep, is in a most annoying state of discomfort at every return of rough weather. The progress made on our course is
small, averaging not more than twenty-five or thirty miles in the
twenty-four hours, though we sail by tacks in that period, from
a hundred to a hundred and fifty. We are navigating by Lieut.




MAURY'S CHARTS.                      47
Maury's wind and current charts, and notwithstanding the seeming
tedium of our progress, in beating against what he denominates
the south-west monsoons of these latitudes, are satisfactorily
demonstrating the truth of his theory and the correctness of his
sailing directions in conformity with it.
It is now some six or eight years since this distinguished
young officer, whose attainments in abstruse and practical science
have reflected such high honor not only on his profession but on his
country, conceived the idea of collecting as many of the log-books
of navigators as could be secured, with a view of collating them,
and of projecting upon charts, to aid in the better navigation of the
sea, the general experience in winds and currents, at all periods
of the year, in the different regions of the ocean. He at the same
time urged upon the masters of ships, the importance of adding
to the usual subject-matter of their logs, the temperature of the
water, the set of currents, and the depth of the bed of the ocean
when it was practicable to obtain soundings. As an incentive to
the trouble of thus keeping a log, and of furnishing an abstract of it
to the National Observatory at Washington, the promise was given
that each shipmaster complying with the suggestion, should receive gratuitously from the government, a copy of the charts and
sailing directions which might be the result.
Not fully alive to the object or aware of its great importance,
the response was slow and imperfect. In the course of a few
years, however, sufficient data were secured; and the first practical
result was the shortening by ten days of the voyage to the
equator, and consequently to Rio de Janeiro.  From the earliest
times this passage, from North America, had been made by running obliquely across the Atlantic to the longitude of the Cape
de Verde Islands, before venturing to strike the north-east tradewind. A traditionary report and belief in the existence of
strong adverse currents along the South American coast, and
the fear of not being able to double Cape St. Roque, should the
equator not be crossed far to the East, led to this. It required no
little moral courage and determination in one of a class prover



48                BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
bially wedded to custom and subject to superstition, to venture
the trial of the new route.  Such an one was found, however, and
the result was most satisfactory. The opinion is now firmly
entertained by many of the most experienced navigators, that by
following the direction of the wind and current charts, the length
of the voyage is diminished one fifth.  This is an immense saving
of time in a commercial point of view. Doubtless the patient perseverance of the accomplished astronomer, in this new field of discovery, with the aids which are now rapidly placed in his possession, will lead to similar results on all the grand routes of
navigation over every ocean, and place the commercial world in
indebtedness to his genius for savings in time, and consequently
in money, of incalculable amounts.
Last night, from nine till ten o'clock, we enjoyed a beautiful
spectacle, in a halo around the moon of colors as vivid as those
of an ordinary rainbow, and in concentric circles most clearly
defined. The moon, near the full, retained her face of silver in
the midst of a field of gold, shadowing towards the outer edge
into a delicate amber and then into the deepest maroon.  A belt
of the purest blue intervened, when the encircling colors were
repeated in fainter hues; apparently, though not philosophically, a
reflection of the first. The phenomenon was so striking, and so
singularly beautiful, that Lieut R -, the officer of the deck at
the time-one ever alive to the poetic and impressive in nature,
as well as to the scientific and practical in his profession-dispatched a messenger hurriedly for me.  The commodore and
captain were also summoned, and soon, with most of the other
officers, joined us on the poop, while the whole crew, from different parts of the ship, shared in the admiration excited by the
scene. It is the first exhibition of any thing unusual in sky or
sea that has thus far marked our passage. A humid atmosphere
and a thin fleecy scud were its accompaniments.
August 23d.-In the course of the night of the 22d inst. we
took the south-east trade-wind, three degrees north of the equator,
and at once bade adieu to the doldrums.  We crossed the line at




CROSSING THE LINE.                   49
high noon, yesterday, on the parallel of 280 30' W. long. without
any very perceptible' jolt;' and are rushing on our course at the
rate of ten miles the hour.
Just in the edge of the evening, after hammocks had been piped
down, the ship was hailed loudly from the bows, and it was reported
to the officer of the deck, that "' Neptune was alongside and requested permission to come on board."  This was granted, and very
unexpectedly to me this monarch of the seas, his queen and suite
made their appearance on deck. They were soon enthroned on
the forecastle, with an immense bathing tub filled with salt water
in front of them, in readiness for the presentation of those of the
crew who had never before been in this section of their watery
dominions. The sun being long set, and the moon, for the time,
obscured, I could not make out very well the costume of their
majesties further than to judge it to be of the latest marine
fashion.  The most conspicuous article in that of Neptune was
a full bottomed wig of white manilla grass, closely curled, like
that of a lord chancellor on the woolsack, but covering not only
his head face and shoulders, but his entire figure, giving him the
aspect in general of a polar bear with the head and mane of a
lion. He bore himself with imperial dignity, while Madame
Amphitrite, of very sturdy and Dutch-like make, sat meekly by
his side, in a fashionably made dress of coarse canvas, or sacking,
with a shepherdess hat of the same material, hair in long ringlets'I  l'Anglaise,' cheeks highly rouged, low neck and short sleeves,
with bare arms which bore a very suspicious resemblance, in
muscle and color, to those of one of our most brawny forecastle
men.
The commodore, with whom I was walking on the poop-deck,
being informed of the presence of the distinguished company,
made his way to the forecastle, claiming courteously from the
monarch the privilege of the entree, from having crossed the equator already some dozen of times.  This Neptune most graciously
conceded, with the flattering remark that he " recollected his
countenance perfectly, and was very glad to see him."  The
3




-50              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
interview, like most others on state occasions, was brief, concluding on the commodore's part by his saying, " he presumed the
presentations of the evening would be numerous," Neptune replying " yes," that he had "never seen so many green-horns on
board one ship in his life! "  A call of the names of candidates
for the honor was now begun, and the gentlemen of the court,
disguised in dress and with blackened faces, began to drag from
every hiding place many an unwilling, but vainly resisting subject, who had never before entered the southern hemisphere.
Forced into the presence with good-nature and laughter, by overpowering numbers, and blindfolded and seated on the edge of the
tub, the victim  was hailed by Neptune with stentorian voice
through an immense paste-board trumpet, in the questions-;" What is your name? " " Where are you from? " "' Were you
ever in these parts before? " While in the act of answering
each of these respectively, a coarse brush dipped in a mixture of
tar, slush, and lampblack was hastily passed over the mouth of
the respondent. The court barber was then called to do his duty
in shaving the gentleman with No. 5, No. 9, or No. 15, referring to the qualities of the razor; this being determined by
the degree of submissiveness and good-nature, or the surliness
and resistance of the subject in hand.  The lathering brush
was something of the form  and softness of a broom  of split
hickory, the lather the composition before described, and the
razors, two or three feet in length, of different degrees of edge,
from the smoothness of straight wood to the roughness of a jagged
piece of iron hoop. When an order for dressing the hair was
added, in penalty of special refractoriness and ill-humor, the
brush used was formed of long wooden pegs fixed in a board with
a handle, like a hatchel for dressing flax; the pomatum, tar; to
which, in extreme cases, was added a powdering of flour in the
style of "'76," the whole winding up with a sudden souse, backwards, heels over head into the tub of salt water.  The presentation thus completed, the new courtier, half drowned, and dripping




NEPTUNE ABOARD.                      51
like a water god, was left at liberty to free himself at leisure
from the tar and lampblack, and dry himself as best he could.
The case of all others, in which the least sympathy was
elicited, was that of a young landsman, who, after long impunity,
had been detected some time before as a thief-supplying his own
wardrobe very freely from the clothes-bags of his shipmates. The
answer to the usual question, "who is this? " when he was brought
forward, " Jackson the thief!" was received with a general shout
of applause, and the following dialogue ensued.  " What is your
name? "  "Jackson."  "Yes, sir; and the sooner you slip yourself out of one so illustrious the better."  " Where are you
from? "  " 0 -."  " And a disgrace you are to so respectable a place. Were you ever in my dominions before?"  " No."
" I knew it: and take care you are never found in them again;
or, if you are, look out how you fill your bag with other men's
clothes for an outfit! " " Barber, do your duty: give him No. 15,
and see that you dress his hair in the first style! "
The striking of eight bells and the calling of the first night
watch brought the rough sport to an end. I have not time tonight to moralize on the subject or to speculate upon the propriety of the indulgence. By whose authority it was sanctioned
I do not know.  Many of the officers regarded it I believe with
disapprobation, as a species of saturnalia unsuited to the rigid
discipline of a man-of-war, and liable to be abused, while others
defended it on the ground of old usage among sailors, and as an
amusing relief to the tedium  of a long voyage.  By a little
management I succeeded in screening from observation, till all
hands were called to duty, two or three youngsters who were
anxious to escape the annoying process.
August 25th.-Sailing in the latitudes of the south-east
trade-winds is the very perfection of life at sea. The waters, as
smooth and level as a prairie, are of the deepest tint of blue, with
the addition in certain declinations of the sun, of a dash of rose
color, imparting to the whole, for a time, the appearance of a
plain of velvet of the true Tyrian purple. Though moving with




52               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
great rapidity, through a wide and deep furrow of sparkling foam
cast up by our bows, the sails of our frigate, fully set from the
deck to the royal-mast-heads fore and aft, sleep by the hour,
without the slightest apparent motion, as if, in place of canvas
spread to the breeze, they were a like quantity of chiselled
marble.  Then, at night, such a moon! with the southern cross
in marked beauty inviting to the sublimest meditations. The
Magellan clouds, too, are in sight: small spots of fleecy whiteness in
the sky, similar in general aspect to the nebulae of the milky
way. Indeed, with the mercury by Farenheit at 66~0 the whole
Southern hemisphere is in brilliant exhibition, many of the
most conspicuous stars flashing on the eye, not only with the
brightness, but apparently with the varying tints of the diamond.
The smoothness of the sea and steadiness of the wind have
afforded a good opportunity for exercise at the batteries, and in
the various evolutions incident to an engagement in battle. The
station of a chaplain, in action, is with the surgeons in the cockpit in attendance upon the wounded and dying; or, at his option
perhaps, on the quarter-deck, in taking notes of the conflict. In
these sham engagements, at least, I prefer the deck: and have
stood with the commodore and captain, while broadside after
broadside has been fired, till the whole ship has been enveloped
in smoke, and I found myself at the end as well powdered as a
miller, though not in such whiteness.  An evening or two since
trial was made in throwing shell with the Paixhan guns.  The
explosion took place eight seconds after the discharge, with
beautifutl effect. The tendency of all these exhibitions, though
only as an exercise, is ever to make me regard with fresh horror
and abhorrence the entire system of war-its principles, spirit,
implements and cruel results.
August 30th.-The prevailing thoughts and feelings of my
mind and heart this morning, traceable to visions of the night,
may be best expressed, perhaps, by the familiar quotation



DREAMS OF HOME.                      53
"Who has not felt how sadly sweet
The dream of home-the dream of home
Steals o'er the heart too soon-too fleet,
I When far o'er sea, or land we roam!
Sunlight more soft may o'er us fall,
To greener shores our bark may come,
But far more bright, more dear than all,
That dream of home-that dream of home!"
Little as I may have confessed it, " Riverside! "-" Riverside!"
is the constant echoing of my heart, and my home is ever in
bright vision before me.  I breakfast with you every morning,
sit by moonlight with you in the verandah every evening: walk
with you every day to "Prospect Rock "-to " Gortlee "-to the
upper fields beneath the mountain, and drive with you, if at no
other time, at least every Sunday to your little church, along the
magnificent terrace of the river-road.
I say, I breakfast with you every morning.  Did you know
exactly the state of the larder and store-room of our mess, you
would wonder that I do not include all my meals in the avowal.
For some time past, on each successive day, the giving out of
article after article for our table, has been reported, till nothing
now remains but salt beef, so hard as fully to justify the sailor's
cognomen of " Uncle Sam's Mahogany," and salt pork as rusty
as the beef is hard.  No potatoes or other vegetables, no butter
better than rancid lard, and no bread fit to be eaten except the
ship's " hard tack," are left.  Dried beans and peas we have, but
both filled with weevil, which the cook has devised no means of
separating, before being served, from the article itself. The consequence is, that when they come to us in the form of soup, the
floating insects drowned and overdone, are the most conspicuous
part of the mess, and when baked, give to the dish the appearance of being already well peppered. I can join very cheerfully
in a jest over such untempting fare, and think of home; but
cannot, like some of my messmates, persuade myself into the
illusion that the little black insects speckling our board are only




54               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
a rich condiment to give zest to the repast, and with them partake of it con gusto.
Yesterday our last turkey, after having given flavor to a tureen of watery soup, was served as a boiled dish. As we were
about taking our seats at the table, a suggestion, made either seriously or in mischief, that the poor bird had not waited for the
cook to bring its head to the block, but had died unexpectedly
of its own accord, put a participation of either soup or meat, on
my part, out of the question; and led, by the time the report
had made the circuit of the table, to a kind of impromptu Court
of Inquiry in the case.  The steward was at once summoned by
the head of the mess, who, fond of a joke, and knowing that the
fat and shining negro, now honored with this office, like many
of the more imitative and aspiring of his race, was somewhat
grandiloquent in his language, put to him the question-" Steward, are you quite sure that the old fellow under this cover was
entirely vigorous when he was taken from the coop? "   "No i
sir, he wasn't wigorous at all! he was perfectly good!"  "Why,
steward, what do you suppose I mean by vigorous? "  "I don't
know, sir, but I suppose from the way you ask me, something
bad."  " Well, steward, I do not wish to be too particular in
this investigation, but just tell me this much, could the old fellow really stand on his legs when he was killed? "  "Sartain,
sir, he could."  "Then, gentlemen," says IMr. —, addressing
himself to the mess, " I go for the turkey," and lifting the cover
disclosed to view a mere skeleton in a shrivelled bag of skin,
with scarce an ounce of flesh on the whole carcass.
You must not infer, either from the feelings expressed at the
beginning of this date, or from the dietetic disclosure into which
I have been incidentally betrayed, that I am otherwise than
entirely content and happy: as much so as I well can be in this
world of imperfection and sin. This is attributable, however,
chiefly if not solely to the conviction in mind and heart, that
I am at the post of duty



IMPEDIMENTS TO PIETY.                     55
"The shepherd of a wandering flock
That has the ocean for its woldThat has the vessel for its fold;"
and am, as I trust, in a spirit cheerfully and faithfully to meet
its responsibilities.  Whether to any high result or visible effect,
it is not in the power of man to say. The sufficiency for this is
of God alone. I am thankful that I feel no discouragement in
the use of the means for moral reformation and spiritual grace
in those around me. Nothing but personal experience could persuade one of the almost insurmountable obstacles that exist, on
board a man-of-war, to the conversion of any of the crew, and
to a life of godliness in one of their number, or make him credit
without close observation, the number and the power of
".The secret currents that here flow
With such resistless under-tow,
And lift and drift with terrible force
The will from its moorings and its course.'
Nothing less than a miracle, humanly speaking, could achieve
such a result; but, as the conversion of any soul, and a life of
godliness in any heart, anywhere, are miracles of grace, I do not
allow myself to despair of such results ultimately through the
word and Spirit of God, whether I ever know them or not.  So
firmly is hand joined in hand among the crew, against every thing
savoring of a profession of or pretension to personal religion,
that it would require no ordinary degree of moral courage, in
any one —whatever might be his secret convictions, feelings or
purposes-to disclose or avow it. Many cheerfully give countenance, both by their words and conduct to good morals in others;
but all seem tacitly at least to say " thus far only shalt thou go."
Though it is by no means unusual to see one and another in different parts of the ship reading a Bible or a Testament either
alone or aloud to others; though tracts, and religious papers, and
books, are eagerly accepted and seriously read, still, to get the




56               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
name of a' Bible-man' by joining a class for reading under the
chaplain, or of a psalm-singing and praying man, from  being
known to practise such devotion, is as much dreaded as would be
a scurrilous reproach. From this feeling it is, that I have thus
far attempted in vain to establish Bible-classes or secure a meeting for moral and religious instruction, beyond the public worship
of the Sabbath and our daily evening prayer: and from the same
fear of man it is that one or two spiritually-minded members of
a church, whom I have discovered among the ship's company, are
unwilling to have their true character and profession known.
The purpose of those chief in authority, to abandon as far as
practicable, in the discipline of the ship, the iron rule, and in
place of the " cats" and the " colt," the kick and the curse, to
substitute a treatment less degrading to man and more befitting
him as a moral agent and an intelligent being, has been carried
out.  Thus far the experiment has been successful; and we have
a cheerful, obedient, active and efficient crew.  We are also demonstrating the fact by experience, that a crew can be content and
happy without having served to them the ration of grog furnished
by government. Knowing that two thirds of all the evil and misery to which sailors, as a class, are subject both at sea and on
shore, arises from the use of strong drink, I, early after the commencement of our cruise, made efforts by private argument as
well as by public addresses, to demonstrate the magnitude of the
evils arising from intemperance, and to persuade all to follow the
example of those who had stopped drawing rum. In securing
so desirable an object, I have had the warm support of those in
authority, whose opinion and influence would be likely to have
most effect.  Commodore MceKeever and Captain McIntosh have
both given me their aid; and the former has twice publicly
addressed the ship's company on the subject. The consequence is,
we shall enter port without the name of an individual on the
grog list; with the universal admission that the ship's company,
to say the least, are as content and happy without the rum as
they were with it, and certainly more quiet and orderly.




GIVING  IP GROG.                    57
In the course of my canvass on the subject, I had, not only,
many interesting, but many amusing conversations and arguments
with various individuals. Before yielding, there was a great
struggle in the minds of some half a dozen old topers-old menof-wars-men, perfect sea-dogs, who, for half a century have drunk
their grog as regularly as the roll of the drum announcing its
readiness was heard, and felt that they could not live without it.
I really pitied some of these old fellows, in the mental struggle
they'suffered, between conscience and a desire to follow the advice of those they honor, and the continued craving of an appetite strengthened by the habit of a whole life. I fell in with two
of these one day immediately after one of the addresses of the
Commodore. They were looking most doleful-as a true sailor
seldom does look except in some great moral extremity. Suspecting the cause, I opened a conversation in which one of them
met my persuasions by saying, with a most appealing look,
" Why, Mr. S ——, I haven't been without my grog every day
for fifty years. Why, sir, I should die without it. I was
brought up on it; my father kept a public house, and I sucked
the tumblers, sir, from the time I was a baby! "  But the old
man soon joined the rest of his shipmates in the resolution to
banish the grog tub. He has now gone a long time without his
rum; and, in place of dying from the want of it, as he said he
should, came up to me yesterday, looking hale and hearty, and
with a bright smile and sparkling eye, said, "Mr. S ——,  I
wouldn't have believed it-but, it's true.  I don't miss my
grog at all. You told me I would live through it, if I did knock
it off. And so I have, and I feel ten times better without it
than I ever did with it! "




CIHAPTER V.
RIo DE JANEIRO.
Sept. 4th.-Land was descried at ten o'clock, on the morning
of the 1st inst., and before noon we had Cape Frio in full view,
twenty miles distant.  Isolated from  other highlands of the
coast, it stands out boldly and loftily in the ocean; and, after
being once seen, is not easily to be mistaken in its outline. We
were rushing onward, before a fresh trade-wind beneath a brilliant
sky, at the rate of eleven miles the hour; and at twelve o'clock,
hauling closely round the Cape to the westward, opened a lofty
and picturesque mountain coast on our right.
The speed at which we were sailing was in itself sufficient
to produce great exhilaration. Add to this, the beauty of the
sportive sea-leaping, foaming, and sparkling around us; the
varied and noble outlines of the shore; the objects of increasing
interest coming hourly in view, with the assurance of an early
termination of our passage, and you can readily imagine that
by nightfall, the continued excitement became almost painful.
As darkness began to gather round us, the faint outlines of the
famed Sugar Loaf marking the entrance to the harbor of Rio,
were discernible; and the first gleamings of the light on Rasa
Island, some seven miles seaward from it, came cheerily upon the
eye. The wind still continued fresh, and we had the prospect of
entering the port at night; but, just as we were attempting to do
so by heading into the channel, the breeze died suddenly away,




COAST SCENE.                      59
and we dropped anchor on what is called the "rolling ground."
The appropriateness of this name was fully demonstrated to us
before morning, by a depth of rolling on the part of our good
ship in a dead calm, which we had not before experienced in the
heaviest weather at sea.
As for myself, I was more than content to pass a restless
night from this cause, rather than lose the opportunity of entering the harbor by daylight. I was anxious to test the fidelity
of the impressions received twenty years ago from the same
scenery; and to determine how far the magnificent picture, still
lingering in my memory, was justified by the reality, or how far
it was to be attributed to the enthusiasm  of younger years and
the freshness of less experienced travel.  The early light of the
morning quickly determined the point.  I was hurried to the
deck by a message from Lieut. R-    already there; and do not
recollect ever to have been impressed with higher admiration by
any picture in still life, than by the group of mountains and the
coast scene, meeting my eyes on the left, as I ascended the poop.
The wildness and sublimity of outline of the Pao d'Assucar, Duos
HIermanos, Gavia and Corcovado, and their fantastic combinations,
from the point at which we viewed them, can scarce be rivalled,
while the richness and beauty of coloring thrown over and
around the whole in purple and gold, rose color and ethereal
blue, were all that the varied and glowing tints of the rising day
ever impart. No fancy sketch of fairy land could surpass this
scene, and we stood gazing upon it as if fascinated by the work of
a master hand.
The pyramidal hills on the eastern side of the channel are
less lofty and less wild than these, but impressive in their massiveness, and beautiful in the verdure of various growth clinging
to their steep sides and mantling their summits.  Together they
form a portal to Rio worthy, not only the city, but the vast and
magnificent empire of which it is the metropolis.
There was full leisure for the enjoyment of the scene, for the
sea-breeze did not set in, with sufficient strength to enable us to




60               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
get under way, till after mid-day. In the mean time I secured
a drawing, while a thorough ship-cleaning was going on, both inside and out.  This was so satisfactorily accomplished by four
hundred busy hands, before the breeze would allow of taking our
anchor, that, with the crew freshly dressed in a uniform of white
and new summer hats, we looked, on taking our position among
the men-of-war at anchor, more like a ship on a gala-day in port,
than one just arrived from sea.
The width of the entrance is a mile, though the loftiness of
the granite shafts by which it is formed, gives the impression of
its being much narrower. The Sugar Loaf on the left-the naked
peak of a mountain of rock whose broad base lies far below in
the great deep-rises, with a slight leaning westward, to an elevation of twelve hundred and ninety-two feet according to the
measurement of Captain Beechy.  The corresponding mass on
the eastern side, less isolated and more rounded, is six or
seven hundred only. At the base of this, upon a tongue of rock
projecting into the channel, is the strong and massively built fortress of Santa Cruz, against whose Cyclopean foundations the
swell from the open sea beats heavily. Its white walls and
embattled parapets, pharos lantern and telegraph fixtures, with the
imperial flag of green and gold flaunting in the breeze, are the
first features of civilization meeting the eye: all else along the
coast looks as primitive and untamed as on the day it was first
discovered.
From the point at which we were at anchor, little within the
harbor could be seen: a small fortified islet or two, the tall
masts of the shipping at the man-of-war anchorage, distant five
miles, and the faint outlines of the Organ mountains in the far
north.  But on passing the Sugar Loaf and fort the bay opens,
and the extent and magnificence of its leading features are
rapidly disclosed. The mountain group, which so impressed us
in the morning and seemed to belong exclusively to the outside, is
found to constitute in new aspects and relative positions, the
grand outline of the western side within.




BAY OF RIO.                       61
To these aspects of nature there was soon added the charm of
art. Long lines of imposing edifices edge the shores; white
cottages and villas sprinkle the hill-sides and crest the mountain
ridges; while church steeples and convent towers and the thickened masses of building in the city gradually rise to view..As our ship moved gently onward the effect was like the unfolding of a panoramic picture. First came the land-locked bay
of Botafogo, backed and overhung by the lofty peaks of the Hermanos and Gavia —its circular shores and sweeping sand-beach
being embellished with a palace-like hospital and numerous
suburban residences of the aristocratic and wealthy.  Then the
green and picturesque valley of the Larangeiras, with cottages
hanging like birds' nests on its hill-sides, beneath the wooded cliffs
and naked summit of the Corcovado; followed quickly by the
bay of Flamengo, the Gloria hill, the hills of Santa Theresa and
San Antonio crowned by their convents, Castle hill with its
Capuchin monastery and old bastions, the hill of San Bento,
and the entire city overtopped by the mountainous range and
bell-shaped peak of Tejuca.
While these objects on the left successively absorb the attention, on the right a precipitous range of granite hills, extending
two or three miles northward from the fortress of Santa Cruz,
falls sheer into the water like the Highlands of the Hudson.  It
terminates in a bold promontory which divides a deep, circular
inlet, called the bay of St. Francis Xavier, from the chief harbor,
and which from some points of view is strikingly in the form of a
colossal lion couchant, with the head settled backward in stateliness upon the shoulders.  At the further distance of a mile a
picturesque cliff-bound little islet-evidently once a part of the
adjoining mainland —marks the northern entrance to this inner
bay.  Surmounted by a white chapel facing the sea, dedicated to
6" our Lady of good voyages," the special patroness of the sailor,
it is a conspicuous and interesting feature in the topography, the
first and the last upon which the ignorant and superstitious among
voyagers and seafaring men, have long been accustomed to fix




62               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
their eyes on entering and on leaving port. Beyond this, upon a
widely sweeping beach, stretch the populous rural suburbs of
Praya Domingo and Praya Grande, immediately facing the city.
These terminate in a lofty rounded hill, partly under cultivation
and partly in wood, which cuts off all further view northward,
except clusters of islands on the distant waters, and the far-off
mountains rising six thousand feet against the sky. The whole
was seen by us under the strong lights and shades of the afternoon, as with a light sea-breeze we floated gently up and dropped
anchor abreast the city, midway from either shore. A cluster of
men-of-war were moored inside of us, from whose mast-heads
floated the national flags of England, Portugal and Brazil, but
none bearing the stripes and stars of the United States.
Towards night the coloring thrown over mountains and valleys, city and bay, was most gorgeous. A light haze, like that of
Indian summer at home, characterized the atmosphere; through
this the sun shone in fiery redness, empurpling the mountains,
gilding dome and steeple and convent tower, and spreading a
crimson glow over the entire bay. I have been thus minute in
the description of the panorama surrounding us, because these
winding shores and curving beaches, these verdant hills and
towering mountains, are for many months in two or three successive years, to be the objects of hourly observation and the
haunts of my daily rambles. The Sugar Loaf and the Corcovado,
the Gavia and the Peak of Tejuca, Gloria hill, Botafogo, Praya
Grande and the Organ mountains, will become in my colnmunications to you, familiar as household words.
Admiration of the natural scenery was not the only feeling
of which I was conscious, in advancing up the harbor. Remembrances of the past caime unbidden to my mind and heart. With
the first opening view of the Praya Flamengo, I was quick in
my search with a glass among its mansions, for the dwelling which
during my former visit had been to me a happy home. It was
easily distinguished in its unchanged exterior. But where was




REMINISCENCE OF THE PAST.                 63
the brilliant and accomplished diplomatist, whose genial spirit
and polished mind gave such charm to its hospitalities? Long a
tenant of the tomb! and I could not but recall the fact, that, with
him, every one whose accquaintance I had here made-an acquaintanceship which, in some instances, from after intercourse, ripened
into mature friendship-was also in the world of spirits: Tudor,
Otway, Inglefield and Walsh, all gone. A generation had wellnigh passed away; and all was changed. A new Emperor was on
the throne-a new Bishop over the see: there was no one to meet,
and no one to look upon, whom I had ever seen before.
It was the predominance of feelings such as these that led, in
my first visit on shore, to a solitary pilgrimage to the former
Embassy, to look once more upon its familiar portal-now in possession of strangers,-and on my return at eventide through the
embowered pathways of the Gloria hill, to think what a dream is
life, and how vain as an abiding good, the highest attainments and
most honored positions gained by man on earth.
September 6th. —Rio de Janeiro, if not built like Rome on
seven hills, can boast an equal number around the bases of which
her streets and dwellings closely cluster. The bright verdure of
these —in tufted groves and shrubbery and in gleaming turf-as
they rise abruptly here and there, from one to two hundred feet
above the red-tiled penthouse roofs of the dwellings and the sombre turret and towers of church and convent, adds greatly to the
beauty of the city, whether seen from shipboard, or in vistas at
the end of the streets, on shore. One of the most conspicuous and
lofty is Castle hill, so called from being surmounted at one of its
angles, by the ramparts and dismantled batteries of a small fort,
erected by the first colonists.  It is also called by foreigners,
Signal hill-from being the telegraphic station to which the movements of all shipping in the offing is made known, by signals
from other stations at the entrance of the harbor and along the
coast. Besides the ruin of the ancient fortress and the fixtures
of the telegraph, it is conspicuously marked by the double-pinnacled church of a former Capuchin monastery, and by the old




64               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
college of the Jesuits, both now converted to the use of the
public-the one as a military hospital, and the other a medical
school. The hill juts so closely on the bay as to interrupt, for a
half a mile, the line of the city along the water, and to leave
room only for a single street. This is not built upon, but being
open to the sea-breeze and commanding a fine water view, is much
frequented as a drive and promenade in the afternoon and evening. Inland from Castle' hill, and separated from it by what
was once a deep glen, but now a densely inhabited part of the
city, rises the hill of San Antonio, so called from being the possession of a brotherhood of that name, whose convent stands in massive dimensions on its brow. These hills occupy the centre of
the city, while that of San Bento; also crowned by a stately convent; that known as the Bishop's hill, from being surmounted by
the Episcopal palace; and the hill of Lavradio, are on its northern
side. The hills of Santa Theresa and Gloria, thus named-the
one from  a nunnery, and the other from  a church dedicated
to our Lady of Glory, are on the south. All originally rose
from and encircled a marsh, the site of the present metropolis.
Till within the last half century, the whole city then containing
only some thirty thousand inhabitants, lay between Castle hill
and the hill of San Bento, a distance of less than a half mile as
a water front, in a parallelogram of rectangular streets extending
about as far inland.  This section is still regular; but in most
others since built, the streets follow the curvature of the hills at
their bases, and straggle from these, in every direction, up the
ravines intervening between the spurs running from the mountains
to the plain. The streets in general are narrow, and roughly
paved with cobble-stones: the sidewalks being comfortable for
two persons only abreast. The population is now about 200,000
-including the suburbs which are very extensive, and reach south
some five miles and nearly the same distance west; while Praya
Domingo and Praya Grande, on the opposite side of the bay, form
quite a town in themselves.
The general climate of Brazil from its great equality has been




THE YELLOW  FEVER.                     65
regarded as one of the most salubrious and healthful of the tropical
regions of the world.  Before the Congress left the United
States, however, it was known that within the last year the yellow fever had made its appearance along the seaboard, and had
raged with great mortality in the principal cities-; especially in
Pernambuco, Bahia, and Rio de Janeiro.  We were uncertain
what the state of health might be on our arrival; and were thankful to learn, by the first boat boarding us, that the epidemic
had ceased, after frightful ravages among natives and foreigners,
both afloat and on shore. The business of the port was almost
suspended by its virulence for six or eight months; the citizens
in great numbers having fled to the country, while the shipping put
to sea.  The general health is now good, public confidence is
restored, and the inhabitants have returned to their shops and
dwellings.
The origin of the pestilence is a mooted point here, among medical men of the most distinguished talent and experience.  Some
contend that it was imported from Africa by slave ships;
others that it was introduced at Pernambuco in a ship from blew
Orleans; and others again believe it to be of domestic generation, connected with atmospherical phenomena, thus far inscrutable to the observations of man. This last opinion is supported by changes of a meteorological character universally acknowledged: one the interruption, amounting almost to an entire
cessation, of thunder-storms in the afternoons, formerly of such
regular daily occurrence, that appointments for business or
pleasure were made in reference to them, as to taking place
" before " or " after the shower."  It is a fact also attested by
medical men, that of late years, marked modifications for the
worse have been observed in the types of fever prevalent, till
their -malignancy reached the climax just experienced. There
was, too, at the commencement and during the continuation of the
pestilence, a stagnation and want of elasticity in the atmosphere,
from the cessation to a great degree of the fresh and regular
winds from the sea, very perceptible and very oppressive: all




66               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
confirmatory of the belief that the sickness was atmospheric and
indigenous.  History and tradition are also brought to support
this supposition; nearly a century ago, a similar pestilence is said
to have prevailed in Rio, with the same devastating effect; and
records of the years 1666, 1686, and 1694, bear testimony to
visitations of a like kind.  There is reason therefore to hope that
the scourge will disappear as it has done before, and not become
annual and endemic as in the West Indies.
The weather now is as delightful as can be imagined, with a
clearness and brilliancy of atmosphere like that on the Hudson
in the month of June, throwing an enchantment around the
scenery of the bay perfectly irresistible.
September 10th.  The first two or three days after our arrival
were marked chiefly by an interchange of visits of ceremony,
between the officers chief in command of the foreign squadrons
near us and our ship; accompanied by a succession of salutes
deafening to the ears, filling the pure atmosphere of the heavens
with smoke and sulphur, and awakening in tones of thunder the
ten thousand echoes of the adjoining mountains. In no harbor
in the world, perhaps, is more powder wasted in the course of a
year than in this. There seems ever to be among the Brazilians
some new occasion for a salute. On the day of our arrival, in
the course of a half hour the Congress alone fired eighty
heavily charged thirty-four pounders: all of which were answered
in the same space of time, gun for gun.  Two of the intervening
clays since have been fete days on shore, calling for three separate
salutes —morning, noon, and night-of twenty-one guns from all
the forts and Brazilian men-of-war in the harbor, and at mid-day
a general one of the same number, from all the flag-ships of the
foreign squadrons. A commutation for the powder thus annually
wasted, would be a princely income for any one securing it.
These observances of etiquette afloat well through with,
Commodore McKeever invited me yesterday morning to join
him, Captain McIntosh and Lieut T —-, in visits on shore to
the American Ambassador, and others of our countrymen in offi



EQUIPAGES.                       67
cial positions, and to Mr. HII, a leading English merchant, who,
had called on board the Congress early after our arrival.  In
1829, and till within a year or two past, the principal landing
was in the centre of the city upon an inclined plane of solid
masonry, descending into the water so as to be accessible by
boats at any state of the tide; this conducted to a fine mole of
granite, parapetted with stone, and forming one side of the
palace square. Against the flush wall of this mole the water rose
high, carrying off into the current, in its reflow, the offensive
matter, which in want of sewers is cast along the shores of the
city at night. An extension of the square on the bay is now in
progress, however, by the driving of piles and filling in with
earth and rubbish; and the landing is at a temporary stairs and
platform of wood, at an adjoining point, in the midst of outpourings
of filth disgusting to the senses, and making impressions on the
stranger most unfavorable as to the purity and civilization of the
imperial city.  A carriage had been ordered for us here, and in
its style and appointments we had evidence, at once, of the improvement in equipages which has been made since my last visit.
Then, the old-fashioned Portugese Calesa, or chaise, and a clumsy
close-carriage on leathern braces, of a similar style and date, were
universally in use. I do not recollect to have seen vehicles of
any other kind, except the imperial carriages and those of the
British Ambassador. Now, although the Calesa is still frequently met, and occasionally its con-frere in antiquity, the low
open four-wheeled carriage of the fashion and finish of those
most modern in New York, London and Paris, and equal to them
in all their appointments, is in general use. Besides many livery
stables at which these may be found, stands of them occupy the
Palace Square and other public points at all hours of the day.
Twenty years ago, mules only were driven, except in  the
instances above mentioned; but, now, fine showy horses are as
often seen in the turn-out.  The carriage we entered was drawn
by a pair of spirited, sleek, long-tailed blacks.  The coachman in
a livery of sky-blue and silver, made aware, by the broad pennant




68               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
of the many-oared barge in which we came on shore, and by the
lace and epaulettes of my companions, of the rank of some of the
party, clashed off with a flourish of whip and a prancing of his
beasts that won the admiration of the bystanders.  He kept
for the whole morning a Jehu speed characteristic of the manner
of driving here; and significant, it would seem, by its accelerated
rapidity, of the degree of rank of those it hurries along, from the
Emperor down.
The route we took, is one of the finest the city and its environs afford, leading three or four miles southward, immediately
along the bay, by a continuous street bearing different names
in different sections, to Botafogo, the most beautiful of the suburbs.  The green and palm-tufted hills overhanging the way
inland; the luxuriant little valleys receding, here and there,
from  it, and terminating in wild and inaccessible ravines; the
flower gardens and shrubberies, encircling the better residences,
with beauty in endless forms, and the perfume of everlasting
spring; the gay coloring, novel, and in some instances fantastic
architecture of the houses; the vases and statuary and statuettes
around and surmounting them; and the stately and ornamental
gateways, opening into fine avenues of old trees terminating in
embowered perspective at inviting residences remote from the
road, with magnificent views at one point and another of the
mountains on the one side and of the bay on the other, made
the drive both in going and returning inspiriting and delightful.
Botafogo itself is a gem of beauty: a seeming lake, three or
four miles in circumference. The one half is as untamed and
wild as granite-bound shores bristling into mountains can make
it; the other, a semicircular beach of white sand overhung with
trees, and lined by a succession of fine residences. From the
curving street on which these stand others run westward, forming
a village-like settlement.  On one of them we found the mansion
of Mr. HI, a spacious establishment with an air of aristocratic
elegance approaching magnificence. Besides the lofty entrance
hall and stately drawing-room into which we were ushered, there




A TROPICAL HOME.                    69
were glimpses through different vistas of a fine library, a music
room, dining hall and billiard room of proportionate dimensions
and appropriate appointments. Situated immediately beneath the
pyramidal shaft of the Corcovado, with a view of other mountain
peaks, the waters of Botafogo at near access on one side, and
those of the ocean not far distant on the other, and bloom and
blossom  on every hand-the rustling banana around and the
plumed palm above —the whole presented a tempting picture of a
home in the tropics.
It was late in the afternoon before we again reached the city.
On inquiring the charge for the carriage for the four hours we
had it in use, I was rather surprised, notwithstanding the large
number " eight thousand," that met the ear in answer, that the
whole was only four Spanish dollars, the thousand being reis, a
nominal term  in the currency of the country, one thousand of
which constitute a mille-reis, a silver coin of the size and about
the value of an American half dollar.




CHAPTER VI.
RIO DIE JANEIRO.
September 12th.-On returning from the drive of Monday, I
did not accompany the party to the ship, but gave the remainder
of the afternoon to a stroll in the city. Its two principal and
most attractive streets are the Rua Direita and Rua Ouvidor. The
first runs north and south, parallel with the water, forming in its
course the western side of the Palace Square; the other is at
right angles with this, running east and west from a point near
the square.  A central section of the Direita is quite wide, and
beside the palace contains the imperial chapel adjoining it, the
Church of the Carmelites, used as a Cathedral, and that of the
HIoly Cross: in it also are the Custom House and Exchange, the
Post Office and Commercial Reading-rooms, and the offices of
the principal brokers and money-changers.  It is in fact the
Lombard-street and the Wall-street of Rio; while the Ouvidor, a mile in length, filled from end to end with shops of
all kinds-fancy goods and millinery, prints and pictures, jewelry,
articles of vertu and bijouterie-is its Bond-street and its
Broadway.
The Rua Ouvidor terminates in a small open square, having
on one side the fine facade of the church of St. Francisco de Paulo,
and on another a more modern and well built structure, in Grecian architecture, used as a military school. A short street leads
from this into a larger square diagonal to it, called the Roscio, in




FIRST IMPRESSIONS IN RIO.                 71
which is the Opera House; and a quarter of a mile further west
lies the grand square of the Campo D'Acclamacao, so named from
the proclamation in it of the independence of Brazil in 1822.
My walk extended to this. It is a rectangular common of large
extent, but partially built upon, and is distinguished by some fine
public edifices. On the side next the city are the Treasury, the
Museum and the Courts of Justice; on that opposite, the Senate
Chamber of the Imperial Legislature; and on a third, a long line
of Barracks. Roads and foot-paths cross it irregularly in various directions; but, ungraded and unplanted, it offers little
attraction to the eye, being covered with coarse grass and weeds,
mud-puddles and rubbish. Though thus neglected and shabby
in itself, the views from it of the encircling hills and more distant mountains are full of freshness and beauty.
The Senate Chamber, a large square building of stone, is
without architectural beauty or ornament. Originally the private residence of a governor of Bahia, when in the metropolis,
it was sold by him to the government for its present uses. In it,
in 1829, I witnessed the opening of the Imperial Legislature by
Don Pedro I.; and learning incidentally this morning when on
shore, that the same body was to be prorogued to-day by the
present Emperor,- I turned my steps again in that direction:
partly for the accomplishment of my purpose of a walk, and partly for such observation as I might secure as an outside spectator.
It was too late to seek a ticket of admission to the house, at the
Embassy or elsewhere, and the Brazilian who gave me information of the ceremony, thought I could not without one gain admittance to the interior, in the ordinary morning dress I wore.
There would, however, it was probable, be a gathering of the
populace to the scene; and with an opportunity of the study
this might afford, I was content. It is the remark of a biographer of the brothers Humboldt, I think, that, " however fertile
nature may be, man is always its most interesting and its most
important feature; " and, after the almost exclusive observation
of inanimate objects, from their surpassing magnificenc; for a week




BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
and more, I felt doubly inclined to avail myself of the chance
of scrutinizing my fellows in new aspects of life.
The first impression made on an intelligent stranger on landing at Rio would, probably, arise from the numbers, evident difference in condition, the variety of employments, dress and undress, almost to nakedness, of the negro and slave population.
Such figures, such groupings, such costumes, as are exhibited by
these on every side, it would be difficult to picture or describe:
the rapid lope and monotonous grunt of the coffee-bag carriers,
their naked bodies reeking with oily sweat; the jingling and
drumming of the tin rattles or gourds borne by the leaders of
gangs, transporting on their heads all manner of articles —chairs,
tables, sofas and bedsteads, the entire furniture of a household;
the dull recitative, followed by the loud chorus, with which they
move along; the laborious cry of others, tugging and hauling
and pushing over the rough pavements heavily laden trucks and
carts, an overload for an equal number of mules or horses, all
crowd on the observation.  Others, both male and female, more
favored in their occupation, are seen as pedlers, carrying in the
same manner, trunks and boxes of tin, containing various merchandise; glass cases filled with fancy articles and jewelry;
trays with cakes and confectionery; and baskets with fruit,
flowers and birds. And yet again others of the same color and
race, more fortunate still, in being free-the street-vender, the
mechanic, the tradesman, the soldier; the merchant with the
dress and manner of a gentleman; the officer in uniform and the
priest in his frock; all by their contrasts filling the mind with
speculation and opening channels for thought.
An impression which would follow this first one, in quick succession, would be derived from the fearfully mongrel aspect of
much of the population, claiming to be white.  Mulattoes, qluadroons, and demi-quadroons, and every other degree of tinted
complexion and crisped hair, met, at every turn, indicate an almost unlimited extent of mixed blood.  This cannot fail to be
revolting, at least to a visitor from the Northern States of our




MIXTURE OF RACES.                    73
country; especially as exhibited in the female portion of the
lower orders of the community, as they hang over the under half
of the doors of their houses, gazing up and down the street, or
lean —black, white, and gray, three and four together, in the
closest juxtaposition from their latticed windows.
A striking exhibition of this incongruous mingling of races
and mixture of blood, was presented in the first object upon which
my eye fell, on entering the Campo D'Acclamacao on my way
to the Senate Chamber. A squadron of dragoons in a scarlet
uniform, had just been placed in line on one side of the square.
A mounted band in Hussar dress of the same color was in attendance.  I took a station for a moment near this.  It was
composed of sixteen performers; and in the number included
every shade of complexion, from the blackest ebony of Africa,
through demi, quarter, and demi-quarter blood to the purely
swarthy Portuguese and Brazilian, and the clear red and white
of the Saxon, with blue eyes and flaxen hair.  Such, in a greater
or less degree, is the mixture seen in every sphere of common
life-domestic, social, civil and military; and scarce less frequently than elsewhere, in the vestibule of the palace and at the
altars of the church.
With the exception of this body of horse-guards and its band,
there was but little indication in the square of the approaching
spectacle.  Two or three hundred idlers only, in addition to the
ordinary movements on the common, were seen loitering about.
Those who had begun to assemble, however, were in clean and
holiday garb.  The Senate Hall, which last evening looked
deserted and shabby enough in its exterior, appeared now in gala
dress. All the lofty windows above and below, were decorated
on the outside with hangings of crimson silk; and the doors,
thrown wide open, were screened by'draperies of green cloth,
embroidered in the centre with the imperial arms in colors.  A
body-guard of Halberdiers, in liveries of green and gold, stood in
groups about the entrance-their lofty spears, surmounted with
glittering battle-axes, being at rest; near at hand.
4




'74              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
Numbers of well-dressed citizens began to arrive and enter the
building by a side door. Perceiving among them one and another
in costumes not differing much from my own, I made bold to follow,
leaving it for the door-keepers to question my right of admission.
I knew not where I might be led, and after a long ascent by a
dark, circular staircase, very unexpectedly found myself in an
open gallery in the middle front of the hall, in a line with the
diplomatic tribune on one side, and that appropriated to the
Empress and her ladies on such occasions, on the other. All the
best places in this gallery were already filled.  As I was looking
about for a choice in such as remained unoccupied, a Brazilian
gentleman, recognizing me as a stranger, though there was nothing
in my dress to indicate either my nation or profession, immediately
approached and insisted on relinquishing to me his seat. It was
in vain that I objected to dispossessing him, till, overcome by his
courteous manners and unyielding purpose of civility, I bowed
my way into it. The point of view was one of the best in the
house, being immediately in front of the throne and the chairs
at its foot, for the ministers and chief officers of the household.
Besides the whole interior, it commanded also, through a large
open window, the avenue, by which the imperial cortege would
make its approach in state from San Christovao, the country
palace, three or four miles west of the city.
The Chamber has been remodelled since 1829.  Instead of
being oblong as then, it is now semicircular, like the Senate
Chamber at Washington. The canopy and hangings of the throne
and the draperies of the windows, are of velvet and silk in green
and gold, the national colors.
The members of both Houses began soon to enter; many in
magnificent attire-naval and military uniforms stiff with embroideries of gold, various court-dresses and priestly robes-and
many in a full dress of black alone, with an abundance of glittering stars and crosses, and the broad ribbons of different orders.
In the number were many men of mark, not only in name and
title, but in talent and popular influence. There was no friend




IMPERIAL LEGISLATURE.                   75
near me, however, as on the former occasion, to point them out
individually; and I had only the unsatisfactory assurance, fromn
the circumstances of the case, of seeing before me not only the
ministers of state and other officers of the government, but the
leading politicians and ecclesiastics of the empire.  Among them
were many heads and countenances indicative of talent and unmistakable intellect, with a refinement and dignity of bearing
that gave a most favorable impression of the whole as a legislative body.
You are aware that the government of Brazil is a constitutional monarchy, similar in its limitations and general organization
to that of Great Britain.  A Council of State consisting of three
members holding office for life, corresponds to the Privy Council
of Her Majesty.  The ministry, composed of the heads of six departments-those of the Empire, Justice, Foreign Affairs, Marine,
Wtar, and Finance-is appointed by the Emperor.  The Legislature consists of two chambers, the Senate and  the  House
of Deputies, and is elected by the different cities and provinces.
The Senators, titled and untitled, the proportion of each being
limited by law, are fifty-four in number, and like the C(ounsellors
of State hold office for life. The deputies amount to more than
one hundred and serve for a limited time. Titles, of which there
are a considerable number, of the various grades of Marquis,
Count, Viscount and Baron, besides those of different orders
of knighthood, are not hereditary, and there is no right of primLogeniture in the descent of property.
The Legislature in its two branches, like the Parliament of
England and the Congress of the United States, has cognizance
of the entire business of the empire.  Its discussions and debates
on every subject, are as free as those of the two bodies named,
and, I am told, are often marked with distinguished ability, varied
learning and accomplishment, and true parliamentary eloquence.
The temperament of the Brazilians is impulsive, and often leads
to displays of impassioned oratory, on points eliciting the sectional
jealousies of the Senators and Deputies.  With an empire as




76               RRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
widely spread as our own, and the centralization of the entire
revenue at Rio, occasions often occur in which this feeling in
regard to appropriations and other legislative measures is manifested.  In times past, the ground of the strongest and warmest
partisanship, was found in the early rivalry between the old
Portuguese population and the native Brazilians, from the absorption by the former of the chief offices and emoluments of the country when a colony, and the patronage and favoritism extended bythe crown to those who accompanied and followed John VI., in the
transfer of the court from Lisbon in 1808. This cause of party
irritation is now, however, rapidly disappearing. The native party
with its purely native policy and views is entirely predominant,
and can never again lose its power and influence.
A flourish of trumpets and a general bustle outside soon
intimated the approach of the Emperor; and, through the open
window before mentioned, I had a view of the procession of state.
A company of lancers in rapid movement cleared the way.
These were followed by a detachment of horse guards, in a
uniform of white and gold with scarlet plumes, accompanied by
a mounted band playing the national air; then came six coachesand-six-each flanked and followed by its guard of honor-containing the great officers of the household.  The state carriage of
the Empress and her ladies, drawn by eight iron grays, next made
its appearance; after which came the imperial state coach with a
like number of horses; a long cavalcade of troops completing the
cortege. Each pair of horses had its postillion, and each carriage
its coachman and three footmen. All were in state liveries
of green, stiff with  lace and embroideries in silver.  The
postillions wore jockey caps fitting closely to the head, with lace
and embroideries to correspond with the livery, and the coachmen
and footmen, old-fashioned cocked hats broadly laced and fringed
with white ostrich feathers.  The postillions, mostly handsome
young lads, and the coachmen and footmen wore powder, and thle
head of each carriage-horse was surmounted by three ostrich
feathers arranged like the Prince of Wales' plunme.  The panels




THE EMPEROR.                       77
and top of the Emperor's carriage were of crimson velvet; but
all other parts, the wheels included, of the heaviest carving, richly
gilt; —the pattern and style of the whole reminding me of the
state coaches of his great ancestor, Emanuel of Portugal, in the
palmiest days of his reign, which I recollect to have had pointed
out to me, as matters of antiquity, in the Royal MIews at Lisbon.
A procession of courtiers now appeared, in an upper corridor,
open to view from the gallery, and, by a double line, formed a
passage way for the Empress and ladies in waiting, to the
tribune appropriated to her.  This was screened in front by
curtains.  As Ier Majesty entered these were drawn, and all in
the gallery rising and bowing, remained standing.  In the mean
time the hall below became deserted, the senators and deputies
having left it to escort the Emperor from the robing room.  They
returned in procession in a few moments, with His Majesty at the
head in full coronation attire, wearing the crown and bearing the
sceptre or gilded staff of state. While he mounted the steps of
the throne the members filed off on either side to their respective
places. Bowing to them, as he turned to face the assembly, the
Emperor bade them be seated, and rested himself on his chair of
state.  A secretary then presented him  with a sheet of letter
paper in a portfolio, from which he read an address some five
minutes in length.  At its close, rising and again bowing, he descended and passed through the centre of the hall as he had
entered, followed in procession by the entire body.
Don Pedro II., whom I saw as a child of three years, beside
his father at a presentation on my former visit in Rio, is now a
tall and stalwart young man of twenty-five, standing among
those around him, like Saul in Israel, " higher than any of the
people from  his shoulders and upward."   He is finely and
massively built, with great breadth of shoulders and fulness of
chest.  His German descent, through his mother, the Archduchess Leopoldina of Austria, is strikingly manifest in his light
hair, blue eyes and fair complexion. There is nothing either in
the features or expression of his face to remind one that, on his




78                BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
father's side, he is a direct representative of the united blood of
Braganza and Castile.  His countenance, in repose, is heavy and
inexpressive, and in the reading of his speech exhibited little
flexibility.  A fixed and, seemingly, determined indifference was
all that could be inferred from his enunciations and intonations.
I could not detect the slightest emotion of any kind or perceive
a ray of feeling in his eye, as he went mechanically through it.
How far this might be attributed to the subject matter, I am
unable to say; it was in Portuguese, which I do not understand,
and I have not yet seen a report of it in French in the daily
journals.  Still he is known to be a man of mind and character;
has been most carefully and thoroughly educated; is extensively
read; scientific in his studies and pursuits; and of exemplary
correctness in his moral principles and character.
The Empress Dona Theresa is a Bourbon of Naples, a younger
sister of the present King of the two Sicilies, and, of course, of
Christina, Queen Dowager of Spain.  She is apparently some
four or five years the senior of her lord. In person she is short
and stout, full in face, with well-defined features, and great amiability and benevolence of expression.  Her walk and general
mien, however, are not particularly marked with the high bearing
and finished air, which give such grace and such prestige of regal
birth and training to some of her compeers in rank, whom I have
seen in Europe.  She was in court costume-an under dress of
white satin heavily embroidered with gold, with a profusion of
rich lace falling deeply over the corsage and forming its sleeves.
These were looped with bands of diamonds magnificent in size
and lustre. The train was of green velvet with embroideries
in gold, corresponding with those of the skirt. Her head-dress,
with the hair worn in long ringlets in front, was a wreath of
diamonds and emeralds, in the shape of flowers, rising into the
form of a coronet over the forehead, and from  which a white
ostrich feather fell on one side gracefully to the shoulder. A
broad sash, the combined ribbons of different orders-scarlet,
purple, and green-crossed the bust from the right shoulder to




THE EMPRESS.                      79
the waist, above which a mass of emeralds and diamonds of the
first water sparkled on her bosom. The ladies in waiting were
also in dresses of green and gold of corresponding character.
By the time the gallery was sufficiently cleared to allow of
a comfortable descent, the procession was formed for a return, in
the same order in which it had arrived.  The Empress was
entering her carriage at a canopied doorway, as I gained the open
air. Some amusing incident had just occurred, and in taking her
seat she indulged in quite a laugh with her companions.  This
entirely confirmed the impression of her good looks and amiability. Ten years of apparent age were at once thrown off, and
both vivacity of mind and sweetness of manner indicated by it.
A pleasant break upon the frigidity of imperial etiquette, having
the effect of a burst of sunshine on a cloudy day, over a landscape whose chief beauty till then had been in shade.
A lowering morning by this time began to settle into a heavy
rain; and a heavy rain here is a rain indeed. It soon poured in
torrents; and it seemed a pity, in an economical point of view, at
least, as the long display moved off for a ride of three miles to
San Christovao, that so much gilding and embroidery, so much lace
and velvet, and so many fine feathers should be exposed to the
peltings of the storm.




CHAPTE R   VII.
RIO DE JANEIRZO.
Septemtber 16th. —There is no seaman's chaplain or other
American clergyman, at present at Rio; and the religious services
of the Sabbath on board the Congress, since our arrival, have
been attended by many of our compatriots, both ladies and gentlemen, residents here, including the Ambassador and Consul and
their families.  Occasions occur not unfrequently both in the
shipping and on shore, calling for the special services of a Protestant minister of the Gospel.  This has been the case within
the passing week.  The commander of an American schooner
spoken by us the day we crossed the line, but which did not
arrive till ten days after the Congress, died suddenly of apoplexy
the morning he entered port.  The schooner was put in quarantine, immediately, by the health officer; and it was with great
difficulty permission was obtained from the authorities for the
burial of the body on shore.  Mr. Kent, the consul, formerly
Governor of the State of Maine, solicited my attendance officially
at the interment.  This took place at the Protestant cemetery
at Gamboa, a northern suburb of the city, situated on a broad
indenture on the western side of the bay.  Here the body had
been carried by water.  Gov. IKent took me in a calesa by land.
The drive is through a mean and unattractive part of the city,
by a winding course from  street to street, between the hill of
San Bento and that surmounted by the Bishop's Palace.




CEMETERY OF GAMBOA.                     81
This burial-ground was purchased by the foreign residents
of Rio twenty-five or thirty years ago.   It was then, ancd
still is, comparatively, a secluded and rural spot, upon a hill-side
overhung and crowned with trees, and commanding a beautiful
view northward of the upper bay and its many islands; of the
rich valleys to the west; and of the Organ Mountains sweeping
majestically round in the distance.  It is enclosed with high
and substantial walls of stone, and is entered by an ornamental
gateway of iron.  From this a winding avenue of trees marks
the ascent to a neat little chapel on a terrace near the centre of
the ground.  Here such religious services as may be desired, or
can be secured, before committing the dead to the grave, are
usually observed.
The morning was wet and gloomy, according well with the
object of our visit, and the peculiar circumstances in which the
burial was to take place.  A funeral more sad in its desolateness
could scarcely be: that of a stranger, in a strange land, unwept and unattended by any one who had ever seen, or ever
heard of him  when living.  The consul, the undertaker, the
grave-digger and I, as chaplain, being the only persons brought
to the spot either by duty or humanity. The officers and crew
of the schooner were in quarantine, and, from some omission or
mistake in the arrangements, no representative from other American vessels in port was present.
The kindness of Gov. Kent, in giving his personal attendance, was at a sacrifice of feeling which could not fail to elicit
my sympathy, though a stranger to him till within a few days
past.  It is but a very brief period, scarcely a month, since he
committed to the newly-made grave near which we were standing,
an only son of great promise just verging into manhood: one of
the last of the victims of the late epidemic. The associations
of the passing scene could not but revive in painful freshness a
sorrow that has not yet lost its keenness.
The rain, and the wetness in every pathway, prevented all
observation, except a general glance around, or any lingering




82                 BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
among the memorials of those who rest here, far from  the sepulchres of their fathers.  It had been my purpose, before being
called thus by duty to the spot, early to visit in it the tomb of my
friend Tudor.  This was the only one I now sought, to stand a
moment beside it in remembrance of the dead, and, in thoughts
of the living, who most loved him, but who may never be permitted to look upon his grave.  It is marked by a plain white
obelisk of Italian marble, bearing the following simple inscription:
(Ossa
GULIELMI TUDOR
Rerump: Feld: Americe Sept:
Legati.
Natus Bostonim A. D. MDCCLXXIX.
Mortuus est
Rio Janiero A. D. MDCCCXXX.
Multis ille bonis
flebilis Occidit.
September 18th.-The objects, at Rio, of historic interest to
the stranger, or suggestive to him  of thoughts of the past, are
few.  There is, however, at least one entitled in these respects
to a passing notice from  a Protestant.  It is a small island,
situated a short distance seaward from our anchorage, beneath the
green heights of Castle Hill, a half mile from  the shore.  Its
entire area is occupied by a fortress, whose white ramparts, demiturreted angles, and floating banner, form conspicuous objects in
coming up the harbor. My eye never consciously rests upon it
without recurrence to a fact in the early history of Rio, inseparably associated with the name which both island and fortress now
bear-that of Villegagnon. However imposing and aristocratic
in sound, it is synonymous in its application here, with treachery,
and not less surreptitious-to compare small things with greatas regards the name of the noble old Huguenot Coligny, first
given to them, than that of Americus, borne by half the globe,
instead of one in honor of the true finder of the western world.




DISCOVERY OF BRAZIL.                  83
Brazil was first discovered by Vincente Pinzon, one of the
companions of Columbus in his first voyage, on the 26th of January, 1499. The land descried by him was Cape St. Augustine
in the vicinity of the present city of Pernambuco.  Ile took possession of the country in the name of the crown of Castile, whose
flag he bore, and, coasting northward to the mouth of the Amazon, returned to Spain without forming a settlement. About
the same period Pedro (abral was fitting out a large fleet in the
Tagus, to be conducted to India by the newly known route of
the Cape of Good Hope. Fearful of the calms in the Atlantic
off the coast of Africa, in pursuing the voyage, he ran so far to
the west as to make, on the 25th of April, 1506, the same shores
Pinzon had, some degrees further to the south.  Entering a fine
bay, in imitation of Columbus, he erected a wooden cross on the
shore, before which he and his followers prostrated themselves,
and high mass being performed, possession of the country was
taken in the name of his sovereign Emanuel of Portugal.  He
gave to the bay the name of Porto Seguro, since changed in honor
of him to Cabralia, and to the country that of the Terra de Vera
Cruz-the Land of the Holy Cross. This appellation, however,
was soon lost in that of Brazil, from the abundance of the wood of
that name found in it and the high value placed upon the article
in Europe: a result pathetically deplored by a pious Jesuit, in
the lamentation that " the cupidity of man by unworthy traffic,
should change the wood of the cross, red with the real blood of
Christ, for that of another wood which resembled it only in
color. "
The harbor of Rio de Janeiro was not discovered till 1516.
De Solis, in search of a western passage to the Pacific, looked
into it, in that year, as he coasted his way to the Rio de la Plata,
where he lost his life. He gave to it no name, however, and it
remained unvisited again till De Sousa entered it in 1531. Under
the impression that it was the outlet of a great river, this navigator called it Rio de Janeiro, the day on which he made the supposed discovery being the first of the new year.  It did not,




84                BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
however, particularly attract the notice of the Portuguese, and
still remained unoccupied by them.
In the mean time adventurers and traders from France made
their way to this part of the New World, and secured the good
will and friendship of the natives.  Among them was Villegagnon,
a knight of Malta, who had seen service in the east, was an officer
of distinction in the French navy, and had commanded the vessel
which carried Mary Queen of Scots and her retinue from France
on her return to her kingdom.  His visit to Brazil inspired him
with the ambition of establishing a colony at Rio. Desirous of
the favor and aid of the crown in this project, and believing the
influence of Coligny with the king the surest means of accomplishing this end, to win his confidence and co-operation he professed a
deep interest in the condition of the Protestants of France, and
avowed the purpose of making the proposed colony a refuge to
them, from the persecutions to which they were subject at home.
The king was led by his friendship for Coligny, to regard the proposition with such favor as to grant to Vilegagnon two vessels for
the expedition, while the admiral interested himself in securing a
number of respectable Protestants to accompany it as colonists.
On arriving at Rio in 1555, Villegagnon first took possession
of the small island Lage near the mouth of the harbor; but
soon finding this too much exposed to the sea, removed to one
larger near the site of the present city, to which, with the fort
erected upon it, he gave the name of Coligny.  The vessels
were sent back to France for reinforcements.  Great interest in
the enterprise had in the mean time been excited among the
Protestants there.  Two clergymen and fourteen students of theology had been selected in Geneva to secure the spiritual good
of the colony) and were received, preparatory to their embarkation, at the chateau of Coligny near Chatillon, with great attention.  Large numbers of respectable emigrants joined them, and
sanguine hopes were entertained that the principles of the reformation would be surely implanted in the New World.
Early after the arrival of this reinforcement, Villegagnon,




HIUGUENOT COLONISTS.                    85
believing himself sure of the support of the crown in the further
prosecution of his object, under the pretence of having returned
to his old faith, commenced so bitter a persecution of the Protestants, that, in place of the peaceful enjoyment of freedom of
conscience for which they had been led so far from their native
land, they found themselves in a worse condition in this respect
than they were at home. They were driven, at length, to the
determination of returning to France.  The only vessel, however,
granted to them for the purpose was so old and so ill found for
the voyage, that five of the number, after going on board, refused
to venture their lives in her. Of these, three were afterwards
put to death by Villegagnon, and the others, flying for- refuge to
the Portuguese settlements, were constrained to apostatize to save
their lives.  The company who embarked reached France only
after having suffered all but death from  starvation.  At the time
of their return, ten thousand of their brethren were in readiness,
under the auspices of Colighiy, to embark for the new colony. The
report brought by them of the treachery of him who was to have
been their leader at once changed their purpose; and the project
of a Protestant colony in'France Antarctique,' as the region had
already been styled, was abandoned. Thus it was that the religious and civil destiny of one of the richest sections of the New
World was changed for centuries now past, and, it may be, for
centuries yet to come.
With the remembrance of this failure in establishing the
Reformed religion here, and of the direct cause which led to it,
I often find myself speculating, as to the possible and probable results which would have followed the successful establishment of Protestantism  during  the three hundred years
which have intervened. With the wealth and power and increasing prosperity of the United States before us as the fruits,
at the end of two hundred years, of the colonization of a few
feeble bands of Protestants on the comparatively bleak and barren
shore of the Northern Continent, there is no presumption in the
belief that, had a people of similar faith, similar mlorals, similar




86               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
habits of industry and enterprise, gained an abiding footing in
so genial a climate and on so exuberant a soil, long ago, the
still unexplored and impenetrable wildernesses of the interior
would have bloomed and blossomed in civilization as the rose, and
Brazil from the sea-coast to the Andes become one of the gardens
of the world. But the germ which might have led to this was
crushed by the bad faith and malice of Villegagnon; and, as
I look on the spot which, by bearing his name, in the eyes
of a Protestant at least perpetuates his reproach, the two or
three solitary palms which lift their tufted heads above the embattled walls, and furnish the only evidence of vegetation on the
island, seem, instead of plumed warriors in the midst of their
defences, like sentinels of grief mourning the blighted hopes of
the long past.
The conduct of Villegagnon soon met its just recompense.
The course he pursued towards the Huguenots led to the early and
utter failure of his enterprise.  Had he been true to his followers
of the Reformed faith, the colony, in place of being weakened by
the return of any to France, would have been so strengthened and
established by the ten thousand prepared to join them, that the
Portuguese would never have been able to dislodge and supplant
them.  Needing reinforcements, Villegagnon proceeded himself
to France to secure more settlers and the further aid of the government.  Every thing there was adverse to his object.  He had
forfeited the favor of Coligny, and put an effectual end to the
emigration of Protestants to Brazil.  The king was too much
occupied with the civil war existing to give heed to him. While
thus delayed the Portuguese fitted out a strong expedition under
Merm de Sa from Bahia.  This was successful.  The French were
driven to their ships, and the Portuguese, possessing themselves
of the island on which they had been established, gained such
foothold as never afterwards to be displaced. This occurred on
the 20th of Jan. 1560, St. Sebastian's day, under the patronage
of which saint the expedition had been placed: and in whose
hornor the city afterwards built on the mainland, received the




PROGRESS IN CIVILIZATION.                 87
name of St. Sebastian.  This is now, however, entirely supplanted by that of Rio de Janeiro.
In 1676 the city had become so populous as to be made the
see of a Bishop, and the palace now crowning the brow of the
Bishop's Hill was built.  At that time, and for more than a
hundred years afterwards, Bahia was the seat of chief authority
in the captaincies of Brazil; but in 1763, so greatly had the
wealth and influence of Rio increased, from the discovery of the
gold and diamond mines, whose products were poured into her
bosom as a market, that the residence of the Viceroy was transferred from Bahia and became permanently fixed here.
It was not, however, till the arrival of the royal family of Portugal, in their flight from Lisbon before the French army in 1808,
that the prosperity and true progress of Rio, and Brazil in general, may be said to have commenced. Till then, the whole country
had been subject to the restrictive and depressing influences of
the policy adopted by the mother country, in the government of her
colonies: all foreign trade interdicted, heavy import and export
duties imposed on the commerce with Portugal herself, grasping
monopolies claimed by the crown at home, and extortionate perquisites exacted by its representatives on the ground. There were
no press, no newspapers, no books, no schools.  The whole country
was in a state of darkness and ignorance beyond that of the
MSiddle Ages; and Rio an unenlightened, unrefined, and demoralized provincial town.  But with the Prince Regent of Portugal,
the Queen mother, the court) and more than twenty thousand
followers, European manners and customs, and the habits and
usages of modern civilized life were introduced.  Commerce was
opened to all nations; and the press, literature and the arts estab.
lished.  The changes effected in Rio were almost miraculous; and
so constant and so rapid have been the improvements to the present
time, that she now presents to the visitor, in many of her leading
features, an aspect becoming the metropolis of a great Empire.
The progress of enlightened government, enlarged liberty and
extended comm-nerce, has been commensurate with the advances in




88                BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
civilization, intellectual culture and the refinements of life.  The
measure of throwing the ports open to all nations, so wise and so
essential, at once adopted and proclaimed by the Prince Regent —
afterwards John VI.-in 1808, was followed by him in 1815 by
the no less important step of elevating the colony in its united
provinces to a distinct kingdom, on an equality in its rights and"'
privileges with those of Portugal and Algarves, under the one
crown.
In 1822, Brazil became an independent empire under Don
Pedro I. with a constitution which guaranteed to her a representative legislature, and the largest liberty compatible with the
immunities of the limited monarchy by which she is still governed.
This political progress was not made without obstacles and
threatened anarchy and disaster.  The return to Portugal of
John VI. in 1821, was followed in 1831, by the abdication of Don
Pedro I. in favor of his son, a child four years of age; and partisan conflicts, during the regency which followed, made necessary
the sudden termination, in 1840, of the minority of Don Pedro
II., at the age of 14, in violation of an article of the constitution
fixing the majority of an heir to the throne at eighteen.  Since
then, however, general tranquillity and progressive prosperity have
prevailed.  After years of deficiency in the revenue there is now
a surplus; the receipts of the imperial treasury for the last year
being seventeen millions and a half of dollars, and the expenditures little more than fifteen millions.  The national debt is sixty
millions, but with increasing exports and an enlarging commerce
this may soon be liquidated; and the finances of the country be
placed in unfettered condition.  The revenue is derived from
duties on exports as well as imports; those on exports being applicable alike to the internal commerce of the empire between
province, and province, and to that with foreign countries.  The
export duty on coffee, transferred from one province to another,
is telln per cent. On shipments of the same article for foreign
ports, there is: an additional duty of two per cent. Every product-rice, sugar, cotton, farina —is thus taxed. The export dclty




DANGERS AND SAFEGUARDS.                    89
on mandioca, the staff of life of the country, is regulated by the
market value of the article, and not by fixed per centage.
There is no direct tax on landed property, but, in lieu of it,
a levy of ten per cent. on every transfer of real estate. There
is also an annual tax on slaves throughout the empire at the
rate of two milreis a head.
The greatest danger to which the empire seems exposed, arises
from  the vastness of its extent, and the obstacles which have
hitherto existed to a ready intercourse, between its different sections and the central power at Rio de Janeiro.  But steam
navigation already established along its coast, and soon to be
introduced on its northern rivers, with projected railroads and
telegraphic routes, promises to overcome this difficulty; andl, as in
the United States, so to facilitate communication, and so closely
and firmly to bind the different provinces in a whole, as to secure
the perpetuity and integrity of the empire.




CHAPTEIR  VIII.
AT SEA.
September 23d." The sea again! the swift, bright sea! "and, at the rate of twelve miles the hour,
"Away, away upon the rushing tide
We hurry faster than the foam we ride,
Dashing afar the waves, which round us cling,
With strength like that which lifts the eagle's wing,
Where the stars dazzle and the angels sing.
We scatter the spray,
And break through the billows,
As the wind makes way
Through the leaves of willows!"
We had expected to meet at Rio de Janeiro, the frigate
Brandywine, the ship the Congress came to relieve; but instead,
Commodore McKeever found orders awaiting him there to proceed to Montevideo.  In obedience to these we got under way,
early on the 17th inst.; but, after dropping down the bay a couple
of miles, the land breeze failed us and we again came to anchor.
For three successive days, we pmade a like attempt to get to sea,
but to no purpose; and, on the morning of the 21st, employed a
steam  tug to tow us out.  The British Admiral had previously
proffered the use of a small steamer, in attendance upon his flag;




PRAYA GRANDE.                      91
and now sent her, to aid the little tow-boat in stemming with her
stately burden, the tide just beginning to set in. When well outside we took a smacking breeze; and, though scarce two days at
sea, have run five hundred miles-nearly half the distance to
Montevideo.
There was no special reason for regret at the delay in getting
off. The position we occupied while detained was the finest possible for the study of the imagery amidst which we lay. But for
some accidental cause of the kind, we should not have had an
opportunity of enjoying it, and I availed myself of the chance to
secure a panoramic drawing, embracing points of beauty not
commanded from the customary anchorage of men-of-war.  During the detention, Captain McIntosh took me with him in two
or three excursions upon the water in his gig, followed by walks
on shore of interest and novelty. One of these was to Praya
Grande, opposite Rio; and another to the bay of St. Francis
Xavier, called by the English Five-fathom  Bay, on the same
side of the water, but nearer the sea.
The formation of the land on the eastern side of the harbor
is less bold and, lofty than that on which the city lies. The
mountains are more distant, and the spurs from them come down
in rounded hills, interspersed with valleys and broad interval lands.
Praya Grande and Praya San Domingo form one gently curving
beach on this shore, some three miles in length, extending northward from the fragmentary islet-on the bluff crest of which is
perched the little chapel of Boa Viagem-to a beautifully
rounded promontory jutting far westward into the bay. They
are contiguous parishes, seemingly but one settlement, and are
rural and village like. The green banks along the water side are
overhung with trees, and the houses every where interspersed
with large gardens and ornamented enclosures.  The population
of the two places amounts to about three thousand. The residences, for the most part, are well built, and many of them tasteful in architecture, and fanciful in their embellishment.  In comparison with the city opposite, the whole district is pure and




92               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
cleanly; and, in place of the villanous smells too often met there,
abounds with the mingled fragrance of the orange, cape jessamine, heliotrope, and unnumbered other blossoms-constituting
a sweetness more fresh and grateful than the choicest' mille fleurs'
of the perfumist. Wild roses, multiflora, and clustering flowers of
varied hues, mantle the tops and fringe the sides of the hedges
of myrtle and mimosa, aloes and cacti which border the roads,
while many of the pleasure gardens, of which we had glimpses
through the iron railings and open gateways, are adorned with
plants and shrubs of novel forms and gorgeous bloom, amidst fountains of greater or less beauty.
We made our way into the open country, meeting, at one
or two points, features in the scenery quite homelike: one-a
meadow of coarse grass edged by a copse and thickets interspersed with single trees; and another, a large field on a hill-side
having the earth freshly turned up, like newly ploughed ground
with us, over which noble mango trees, with their thickly set
leaves, and rounded tops, were scattered like oaks in an English
park.  On every hand there was a great variety of growth in
shrub and tree, and it was with no slight degree of pleasure that
I recognized among others, as old friends at the Sandwich
Islands, not only the cocoa-nut, palm  and banana, but also the
bread-fruit, the tamarind, and aluerites trilobca-or candle tree.
Not knowing how far the road we were following might lead,
before it would again conduct towards the water, we were about
to retrace our steps the same way, when, a question accidentally put
to a negro passing, led to a return under his guidance over a hill, by
a wild and romantic bridle-path. This was so overhung by densely
interwoven growth, that the glare of midday soon became twilight to us, and the heat of a burning sun tempered to the coolness of a grotto. At many points of the entire walk, the views
of the bay and city in the distance, and of the mountains overhanging them  were of unsurpassed beauty. Indeed, there was
no end to the forms of loveliness by which we were surrounded, and
to the associations in memory and affection brought to my mind




BAY OF FRANCIS XAVIER.                  93
by them.  With the expectation of spending many a tedious
month of our long exile on the adjoining waters, it was a delight
to know that walks of such freshness and beauty are so near and
so accessible.
The row to the bay of St. Francis Xavier was made the succeeding afternoon. A bold and strongly defined promontory of
granite, separates this sheet from the waters of the general harbor,
and makes it so land-locked as to give to it the aspect of a
secluded lake.  Till we had doubled this, I had no idea of the.
depth to which the bay sweeps seaward behind the promontory,
or of the feeling of remoteness from civilized life which its general features at once impart.  The wild mountains, with a rude
hut clinging here and there to their uncultivated sides; the
primitive look of the lowly cottages of fishermen stretched along
a distant beach; and the canoes drawn up on the sands, or resting
lightly upon the water, again transported me to the South Seas,
and I felt as if at the Marquesan or Society Islands, rather than
within a half a dozen miles of the metropolis of a magnificent
empire. Just so untamed, just so Indian-like, I ant told, were
the entire surroundings of the bay of Rio, till within the last
thirty or forty years.
The eastern side of this inlet is formed by a long curving
beach of sand, called the Praya Carahy.  It fronts an extensive
plain of low alluvial ground through which, at either end, two
streams from the mountains make their way. Landing at the mouth
of the most southern of these, with orders for the boat to meet
us at that to the north, we walked upon the sands the intervening distance, in alternate admiration of the scenery inland, on the
one side, and the sportings of a heavy surf on the other.  This
illumined by the rays of the declining sun, rose high in emerald
masses, till, cresting into ten thousand diamonds, it thundered on
the beach and came rushing to our feet in sheets of foam.
September 27fh.-The fresh wind mentioned in my last date
brought us, the next evening, on soundings off the Rio de la
Plata.  A change then suddenly occurred with every indication




94               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
of heavy weather.  The mercury in the barometer fell low; and
during the night there was heavy rain, with a good deal of thunder and lightning, while meteors, called by seamen, compesant —
a corruption of corpo santo or holy body-flitted about the yardarms and mast-heads of the ship. All these were forerunners of
weather more like a gale than any thing experienced since leaving Norfolk: indeed, a regular pampero, a storm of wind so called
from the pampas or boundless plains between the Rio la, Plata
and Patagonia, over which the cold south and south-west winds
from the polar regions sweep, corresponding in force and temperature to our fiercest north-west winds at home.  The storm was
not of long continuance, and yesterday afternoon we made the
land near Cape St. MIary, the northern entrance to the river.
WVe lay off shore for the night, and sighting the land again this
morning, soon after made the little islet of Lobos, a chief landmark in entering the Plata from the north, seventy miles from
Montevideo.  It derives its namue from the multitude of seal frequenting it.  Many of these were seen, as we approached, basking on the rocky shores and swimming about in the water. A
strong and offensive odor was also very perceptible. The island
is a governmental possession of the Republic of Uruguay, but
leased for a long term  of years to a gentleman of Montevideo,
and yields a handsome income in skins and oil.
The river is here one hundred and twenty miles wide. Its
northern shore only, of course, is visible. This is low and sandy,
marked here and there by a green hillock. With a glass, great
numbers of horses, in vast droves as if wild, could be seen grazing in the distance; also the church towers of Maldonado, the
town next in size in the Republic to Montevideo.  From all we
can learn, it is in such decay and depopulation at present, that
the euphony of its name is its chief attraction.
Midway.between the island of Lobos and Montevideo are the
highlands of Monte Negro.  The next landmark is the isle of
Flores, surmounted by a light-house, fifteen miles distant from the




MONTEVIDEO.                        95
anchorage.  This light we are in momentary expectation of
making.
rontevideo, October lst. - On the night of the 29th ult.,
after having run a sufficient distance beyond the light of Flores
to bring us abreast of Montevideo, we dropped anchor without
having caught sight of any shipping in the roadstead, or discovering any signs of the town.  On the lifting of a dense fog the
next morning, the first objects discernible were the men-of-war of
a French squadron about five miles in shore of us. Shortly
after, the Mount —a conical hill situated on the western side of a
circular indenture in the river, constituting the harbor-which
gives name to the place, was disclosed; and lastly, the town itself
on a point opposite, distant from it a mile or more, in a direct
line across the water. The whole landscape is as different as possible from that at Rio de Janeiro.  It is low and level, without
rock or tree: a soft verdure covered the shore and gleamed in
the sun, like so much velvet, as it came peering on the eye
through the fog bank.
The Mount is an isolated hill rising gradually and regularly
on all sides, at an angle of 450~, to a height of 480 or 90 feet.
It is crowned by a small rectangular fortress, above which the
lantern of a pharos rises some twenty or thirty feet.  Being in
possession of a besieging force, no light is shown from it, that
additional embarrassment may be placed on the commerce of the
port.  Midway between the Mount on the west and the town on
the east, a smaller hill rises two or three miles inland, in like
manner in regular lines from the plain. This too is crowned
by a little fort, which, like the other, is in possession of the
besieging party.  It is called the " Cerrito," or little hill, in
contradistinction to the other, known as the " Cerro,"' or hill par
excellence.  The town is situated on a peninsula of tufa rock, a
half mile in length by a quarter in width, rising gently from the
water on three sides to an elevation of eighty or a hundred feet,
much in the shape of a tortoise's back.  From a distance it presents a mass of compactly built, white, fiat-topped houses, one




96                BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
and two stories high, of Spanish aspect, with multitudes of
small, square turrets or miradors overtopping them, from the midst
of which, on the central height, rise the lofty roofs, dome and
double towers of a cathedral.
It was in vain we searched among the shipping of the outer
roads, where alone there is sufficient depth of water for a frigate,
for the broad pennant of Commodore Storer.  The sloop-of-war
St. Louis, however, was recognized in the inner harbor. On
communicating with her, we learned that the Brandywine had
sailed for Rio de Janeiro ten days ago, again leaving orders for
the Congress to follow.  Our trip has thus been for naught.
We sail again for Brazil, with the first fair wind, and I shall
defer all observation in the city to the more favorable opportunities of an after visit.
The general view around us is more homelike than any thing
seen by us since leaving the United States. The growth is no
longer tropical.  The sky, the temperature of the air, the tinting
of the clouds at sunrise and sunset are all those of the Northern
States.  Yesterday, the Sabbath, was altogether like a fine,
bright, fresh and transparent day in October on the Hudson;
though, while October there is the gradual freshening of autumn
into winter, here it is the softening of spring into summer.  The
mercury in Fahrenheit has not yet fallen below 500; still the
change from the heat of Rio was felt so sensibly, on reaching the
latitude of the river, that flannels, cloth clothes, and overcoats
were found comfortable, if not absolutely necessary. The region
of the La Plata is famed for the transparency of its atmosphere
in fine weather.  To this probably is to be attributedcl, in part at
least, the great beauty of the sunsets at this place.  We have
been delighted by two already gazed on; the one remarkable for
the exquisite delicacy of its tints in blue and gold, amber, pink
and pearl, and the other, equally soft and beautiful at first, but
afterwards gorgeous to sublimity, from  the reflections in crimson
and gold of a canopy of fleecy clouds spread widely over the
heavens.




SEA-BIRDS.                      97
AT SEA.
October 12th. —We made an attempt to leave Montevideo
on the 2d inst., but succeeded in making a small change only
in our anchorage.  At the end of three days, we had scarcely
passed the island of Flores, fifteen miles from the city, though
we had weighed anchor not less than three times each day in the
hope of taking a final departure.  The difficulty was caused by
a succession of calms, thick fogs, head winds and adverse tides
characteristic of the season here.  It was not till the 6th that
we again passed Lobos and were fairly outside.
Since clearing Cape St. Mary, we have been experiencing all
the vicissitudes of the sea: first in a long stretch, off our course,
far to the south-east, close hauled upon a head wind; and, since
the 9th inst., when this changed in our favor, in a rapid but boisterous run of more than half the distance to Rio de Janeiro.
While thus careering on our way, in addition to the ever-varying
rush and roar-the cresting, breaking and foaming of the billows
behind and around us, we have found an interesting relaxation on
deck in watching the sportings and unwearied movements of
unnumbered sea-birds, following closely in the broad and troubled
wake of our ship, in pursuit of the fragments of food thrown
overboard from the different messes at all hours of the day. It is
not often that so rich a windfall as the waste of such a ship falls
to their lot. To this fact they seem fully alive, and were indefatigable in making the best of their good fortune. Amidst
flocks of beautiful Cape pigeons, outrivalling in numbers the
crows of Crum Elbow ~ in an autumnal evening, were to be seen
the gigantic albatross, sweeping round on wide-expanded and
motionless wing; the' sea-mew and man-of-war bird, black as
ravens; the booby, and any quantity of the stormy petrel, treading the water more confidently and more securely than did the
unbelieving Peter.
* A well known point on the Hudson River, overhung by precipitous cliffs,
a favorite resort of crows.
5




98               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
The Cape pigeon-Procellaria Capensis-is beautiful on the
wing or as seen tossing gracefully on the water. Its size is that
of a large dove. Its breast is snow-white, with back, wings and
tail of slate color, thickly set with oval spots of white, having
much the effect on the eye of a tasteful dress in second mourning.
Several were taken with hook and line, baited with pork, and
one by the mere entanglement of its wings in a line. They are
not so pretty or symmetrically formed, on close inspection as at a
distance; and in place of the gentleness of the dove, which they
at first so much resemble, are as snappish and resentful in spirit
against their captors as the most carnivorous of their species.
The albatross-Diomedia ]ixulans —is white, with wings
and back varying in different birds from black to a light brown.
It is an ugly-looking bird, about the size of a domestic goose,
with large head and great goggle eyes.  The wings are very
long-from eleven to fourteen feet from tip to tip. This interferes much with the facility of rising when seated on the water.
It is only with evident effort and an awkward floundering that
they mount again after having alighted; but then, it is a wonder
to observe the ease and rapidity of their flight, and their ability,
with seemingly motionless wing, to sweep in wide circuit round
and round the ship, and still keep up with her in her swiftest
career; and this day after day, without apparent exhaustion or
fatigue, though sailing at the rate of two hundred miles and more
in the twenty-four hours. The fiercer the winds and the more
tumultuous the towering and thundering of the waves, the more
joyous are their sportings, and the more triumphant their mastery
of the elements.
The booby — Sula Bassana-is somewhat like the albatross in general appearance, but less clumsy, smaller, more angular in outline and pinion, and less majestic in flight. The manof-war bird-Fregata Pelicana —is less adventurous in its wanderings over the sea. Its form is more that of the eagle-hence
one of its names, Tachypetes Aqz4ilas-with long feathers on
the wings and tail, and its color a jetty black. It owes its English




STORMY PETREL.                     99
name to a supposition of the ignorant, that in returning to the
land it heralds the approach of a ship; but, only from the fact
that, like the ship it seeks the shelter of the port on the approach
of a storm, and makes an earlier and surer arrival.
The most constant in its companionship with us, in every latitude and in all states of the weather, is the little petrel-Thelassadromcc Pelagica —a small swallow-tailed bird, about the size,
with much of the appearance, of the common house martin.
Wilson in his ornithology gives a graphic description of these
birds as seen in a gale, "coursing over the waves, down the
declivities and up the ascents of the foaming surge, that threatens to bury them, as it bursts over their heads; sweeping again
through the hollow trough of the sea, as in a sheltered valley,
arid again mounting with the rising billow, skimming just above
its surface, occasionally dipping their feet in the water and throwing it up with additional force: sometimes leaping, with their
legs parallel on the surface of the roughest wave, for yards in
succession; meanwhile continually coursing from side to side of
the ship's wake, making excursions far and wide to the right and
to the left-now a great way ahead, now shooting far astern and
returning again as if the vessel was stationary, though often running at the rate of ten knots the hour."
The most singular faculty of these birds, however, is that of
standing, and of running on the face of the water, with the greatest apparent facility. When any greasy matter is thrown overboard they instantly collect around it with greedy and clamorous
chatterings; and, facing to the windward, with their long wings
expanded and their little webbed feet pattering the water, eagerly
seize the booty. It is the lightness of their bodies and the force
of the wind against their wings that enable them so readily to do
this. In calm weather they perform  the same manoeuvre, by
keeping their wings just so much in action as to prevent their
feet from sinking below the surface.  According to Buffon, it is
this habit which has given to the whole genus the name they bear,
from the walking on the water of the Apostle Peter.  It is amrs



100              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
ing, and partly vexatious, to see a clumsy albatross or great booby
come swooping down among them, while they are thus collected
around their food, and, flapping them away with its monstrous
wings, at one mouthful rob them of a whole meal. Greasy substances.are their choicest food, and their little bodies become a
mass of oil: so much so, that dried and strung on a skewer, they
are burned on some of the islands of the Atlantic as a substitute
for candles.
The boisterousness of the weather has made the frequent
reduction of sail necessary-at times, almost to bare poles.  This
has afforded a more than ordinary opportunity of witnessing the
exposure and daring intrepidity required from the sailor in the
discharge of his duty. The taking in of sail and the reefing of
topsails in so large a ship, by a crew of four hundred men, emulous of excelling in skill and expertness, is an exciting scene
even in a moderate breeze.  When this occurs amidst the
rushing winds and howling storm, with such masses of heavy
canvas as compose our sails, flapping seemingly in unmanageable force, and snapping like thunder in the gale, it is frightful to
look aloft.  While the masts are bending to the wind and
the ship careening in the water, you see the yards covered with
hundreds of the crew with no guard from destruction in the giddy
height, but the habit of keeping their feet firmly on the footropes, while their hands and arms are occupied in overcoming the
fearful thrashings of the sails, and in gathering in the canvas and
binding it down with the reef-points.  Some of them  on the
upper spars, like birds in the topmost branches of a tree, sweep
to and fro over the roaring gulf below; and, occasionally a
man or boy is beheld clinging to a slender spar or single sheet at
the very mast-head, two hundred feet from the deck, disentangling a halliard or conductor-causing one's nerves to shake
under the apprehension of seeing him hurled, in some pitch or
roll of the frigate, far overboard into the raging sea, or dashed to
death at your feet on deck.




DYING DOLPHIN.                   101
October 16th. —The mountains and islets around the harbor
of Rio are in full view, and I will close this section of my record.
In doing this, I must follow the subject matter of my last datethe birds of the sea —by a word on some of its fishes.  In
a calm yesterday we were surrounded by a great number of
dolphin-Cyrophcena hipppuris-certainly, as seen moving in its
blue waters, the most beautiful of the inhabitants of the deep.
When full grown, it is from two to three feet in length, elegant
and symmetrical in shape, and brilliant in colors: the prevailing
hue being mazarine blue, or Ponlpadour, shading from the back
to the under parts into emerald and gold, with fins and tail of
green running rapidly into a bright yellow.  Its motions are easy
and graceful, and were watched, in great numbers, under the advantages of a smooth sea and brilliant sun. Dolphin are so
common in all tropical latitudes, and so frequently seen, that I
might not have thought of taking note of them in this instance,
but for an assertion respecting them recently met in a book on
natural history, which, emanating from a fellow of Oxford, ought
to be of good authority. After stating the fact that the shape of
this fish, as given in heraldic and classic representations, is entirely
poetical and untrue, the author-Wood-adds: " indeed almost
the whole history of the dolphin is imaginary-very poetical, but
very untrue.  The red and blue of the heraldic lion are not less
fabulous than the changing colors of the dying dolphin, so dear
to poetry. Alas! our unpoetical dolphin, when we have harpooned him and brought him to the deck is only black and white,
and all the change that he makes is that the black becomes
brown in time, and the white gray." This assertion I know, from
personal observation in company with many witnesses, to be an
error. In the first voyage I ever made, I had an opportunity of
observing and admiring the varying and beautiful colors of the
dolphin while dying; and now, fully proved to myself the truthfulness of the record of it then made. Mr. G ——, secretary to
our commander-in-chief, caught one with a hook and line, and




102               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
quickly drew him  over the stern on deck.  I happened to be
present, and, though the dying throes even of a soulless fish can
scarcely be looked on without sympathy, the effect on its coloring
could not be watched without admiration.  The first change
which took place, after the fish reached the deck, was of the whole
surface into a bright yellow or gold, spotted, like the speckled
trout, with deep blue; then the whole became blue again, the
spots of a deeper hue still remaining distinctly marked; a third
change was into a pure and spotless silver, over which prismatic
colors, like those in an opal under a shifting light, passed rapidly
and tremulously for a few moments, when the beautiful dolphin
became brown and gray like any other dead fish.
It is possible that, when struck with a harpoon, the violence
of the shock may be such as to produce death so suddenly that
these changes have passed away, before the fish can be drawn on
board, as their duration is but momentary.  Either this is the
truth, or Mr. Wood is not authority in the case.  You may still
believe therefore that
"The dolphin,'mid expiring throes,
More exquisite in beauty grows,
As fades the strength of life:
And tintings bright of sapphire blue,
And rainbow lights of every hue
More exquisite each moment shew,
As fainter grows the strife."
Portuguese men-of-war —Physalia physalis —have also been
floating past us.  These are moluscae with long feelers, and furnished with an air-bag which they have the power of inflating at
pleasure when moving on the surface.  This is provided with
apertures at either end, by which they can expel the air, or take
in sail, as a seaman would say, when they wish to sink. This air
bag, when inflated, is of an oval shape, and of the tenuity almost
of a soap-bubble, and exhibits like it, though in stronger shades,
many of the hues of the prism. The beauty discoverable in many




PORTUGUESE MAN-OF-WAR.                     103
of these animals is said by naturalists to equal any thing in organic nature.
A  passage in Montgomery's Pelican Island applied to the
convoluted nautilus, which rises and floats on the surface of the
water, but spreads no sail, is perhaps more truthfully descriptive
of this man-of-war:
"Light as a flake of foam upon the wind,
Keel upwards, from the deep emerged a shell,
Shaped like the moon ere half her horn is filled;
Fraught with young life, it righted as it rose,
And moved at will along the yielding water.
The native pilot of this little bark,
Put out a tier of oars on either side;
Spread to the wafting breeze a two-fold sail,
And mounted up, and glided down the billow
In happy freedom, pleased to feel the air,
And wander in the luxury of light."
Should you be disposed to think that such commonplace
observations indicate the tedium and imonotony of sea lifethe paucity of its resources for occupation and amusement-and
are not worth the time required for the record, I must take
shelter from the reproach in the example of a voyager no less
illustrious than Humboldt, who, at the end of forty years, confesses to the delight still afforded by reminiscences of such pastime
on the sea. True, we may not, like him, mingle our admiration
with thoughts of deep philosophy, or make our observations subservient to generalizations in science; still, we can take equal
delight in the varied phenomena of the sea, and, in humble adoration, thus " look through nature up to nature's God," and rejoice
in the infinitude and perfection of his manifold works.




CHAPTER IX.
RIo DE JANEIRO.
October 20th.-On entering the harbor on the 16th inst. the
lofty masts of the Brandywine were soon descried through a mist
and vapor which, to a great degree, enshrouded the general
scenery. Hauling down our broad pennant of blue, while yet
three or four miles distant, that of Commodore Storer was
saluted by us, and one of red was run up to the masthead of the
Congress.  To this only Commodore McKeever is entitled in the
presence of a superior in colmmand.  The Brandywine at once
returned the salute, and, soon afterward, greeted our arrival with
"' Hail Columbia " from a band, as, passing alongside of her, we
dropt anchor under her stern.
The early return of the Congress was quite a surprise, the Brandywine herself having but just arrived. We had made the trip
down and back again in the same number of days-eighteenwhich had been occupied by her in the one passage. Though a
surprise, it was, however, a greater joy to her officers and crew.
They are more than three years from home, and have long been
waiting a relief. Moreover, Commodore Storer had given the
assurance, before we were sighted, that they should be under way,
homeward-bound, the next day but one after the Congress should
arrive. True to his word, his anchors were up with the early
dawn of the 18th inst. The departure, with its associations, was




CITY PALACE.                     105
quite an exciting scene. The mist and fog of the two preceding
days had disappeared, and the whole panorama of city and bay
was in the perfection of its beauty in light, shades, and coloring.
As with the first rays of the sun the frigate swung from her
moorings, the Congress gave a salute. With the first echoings of
this, her rigging was filled by the crew, clustered together like
bees in a swarm, sending forth three cheers for the homewardbound, with a feeling and will that swept every chord of the
heart.  Then came " Hail Columbia " from our band: the whole
quickly followed by the salute, the cheers, and the music of
"' Home, sweet home," from  the Brandywine.  By this time
she was completely enveloped in a broad and lofty pyramid of
convoluting and pearly smoke, beautifully illumined by the sun.
I thought it a good time to bid her adieu, while thus lost to
sight in a glory of her own creation, and descending to my state.
room, left her to make her way out of the harbor as she best
could.
The 19th inst. was a court-day at the palace. Commodore
McKeever availed himself of it for a presentation to the Emperor
and Empress, as the new commander-in-chief of the United States
Naval Force on this station.  I made one of his suite; and left
the ship at noon for the ceremony, with a party of ten, including
Lieutenant McKeever of the U. S. army, a son of the commodore,
who, on furlough for six months after service in Florida, came to
Brazil in the Congress on a visit to a brother connected with a
principal mercantile house in ]Rio.
The palace fronts immediately upon the chief landing-place,
a few hundred yards only from the water.  It is an old building,
originally the viceregal residence, appropriated to the court of
Portugal on its immigration in 1808. It is of stone, stuccoed
and painted yellow, in part two and in part three stories in
height, and without architectural pretension. The front, occupied
on the ground floor by a vestibule leading to the grand staircase,
is scarce a hundred feet in width; but the building, enclosing a
small quadrangle in the centre, runs back along the public square,
5,..




106               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
about five or six hundred feet to the Rue Direita.  Over this
a gallery-thrown from  the second story-communicates with
a still older range of structures on that street, at right angles with the other, extending also some five or six hundred
feet to the royal library and imperial chapel, both appendages of
the palace..,- The rooms of state and the throne-room occupy the
whole length of the second floor, on the side overlooking the
square; and the imperial apartments and private rooms the whole
of that on the other side of the quadrangle.  The only use made
of the palace is for receptions, at levees and drawing-rooms, and
the giving occasionally of a state-bali: the family seldom if ever
lodge in town.  Having, in September, twice witnessed the arrival of the Emperor and Empress in state, from their residence
at Boa Vista, I lost nothing of the usual spectacle on court-days,
by not being on shore in time for this, on the present occasion.
In both instances I happened to be crossing the square, when the
approach of the cortege was signalled by a call, from bugle and
drum, for the guard and bands in attendance to turn out for the
reception.  The degree of state and the splendor of equipage
vary on different occasions.  Sometimes mules only are driven;
sometimes horses only-sometimes both attached to different
carriages.  The general display, at all times of ceremony, is much
the same as that described at the prorogation of the legislature,
a month ago.  As the cavalcade approaches, the halberdiers with
their battle-axes at rest, form, in single lines, on either side of
the principal entrance, through the vestibule to the foot of the
grand staircase. No objection was made to my taking a position,
almost in a line with these, and within touching distance of their
majesties as they passed. On the drawing up of the carriages
at the entrance, the great officers of the household and ministers
of the empire descending from the waiting-rooms, form a line on
either side, within those of the guard, from the carriage door to
the staircase.  Immediately on the alighting, a kissing of hands
by these is commenced.  The Emperor, a step or two in advance
of the Empress, presents his right hand for this purpose, first on




SCENES AT COURT.                    107
one side and then on the other, the Empress following in the
same manner with a constant short and quick bow of the head, and
an expression of great kindness and benignancy. Both occasionally extend a hand beyond the courtiers to individuals among the
halberdiers on the qui vive for the honor. As they thus pass,
the grandees of the court close in after them, and the ladies and
gentlemen in attendance, and in procession, mount the broad staircase.
This guard of halberdiers is not of hireling soldiery, but of
volunteers of respectability from the middle ranks of life in the
city; and the indulgence accorded by them of so near an approach
of spectators as was allowed me, affords an opportunity for many
a poor subject to place a petition in the hands of the Emperor or
Empress, without the intervention of an official or courtier.  I
was pleased with the readiness and condescension with which two
or three were received by the Emperor, from women of the
humblest class in evident distress, and were placed in the crown
of his chapeau, while kisses, tears, and thanks were showered on
his hand.
On entering the palace we were received by Mr. Tod, the
American ambassador, in the diplomatic saloon-the richest of
the apartments excepting the throne-room.  The imperial party
were in the chapel at mass.  Mr. Tod proposed to conduct us
there, by the corridor over the Rua Direita, and we followed him
in that direction, through a long succession of rooms, till met by
several of the foreign ministers returning with the report, that
the diplomatic tribune in the chapel was undergoing some repairs,
and was closed. We therefore retraced our steps to await the
close of the religious service.  This was not long; and Don Pedro
and Donna Theresa, followed by some twenty or thirty attendants,
soon made their appearance on their way through the long suite
of rooms to the audience chamber. The court dress of the ladies
here, as in Russia, is a uniform: a white brocade embroidered in
gold, train of green velvet with corresponding embroideries, and
head-dress of ostrich plumes and diamonds.  This is a sensible




108              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
regulation promotive of economy, by an avoidance of the rivalry
in expense and display, among the ladies, though at a sacrifice of
the picturesque, from variety in taste and elegance in such a
spectacle. Among the ladies in attendance was one more than
eighty years of age, a venerable condessa, who accompanied the
royal family from Portugal in 1808, and has been a leader of the
fashion in the court circles, through the change of four dynasties,
to the present time.
The Emperor led the suite a little in advance of the Empress.
He is in stature truly a splendid specimen of humanity.  The
maturity of his countenance, as well as figure, leads to a supposition of his being full ten years older than he really is. An imperturbable gravity and unbending dignity contribute to this impression.
The diplomatic corps and our party fell into line on one side
of the room, and saluted the Emperor and Empress as they passed
by a bow, receiving a stately return from each, accompanied by
a very decided look of scrutiny at such as were perceived to be
strangers.  A  long range of apartments was to be passed
through, before reaching the throne-room, and it was some
minutes before a chamberlain announced to Mr. Tod-the senior
ambassador in residence, and thus entitled to lead the diplomatic
procession-that their majesties were on the throne.
The intervening rooms were thronged with Brazilians, representing in strong force the church, the army, the navy and
judiciary, with many in civil life, in distinctive uniforms and
varied court dress; but I missed in the throng much of the picturesque variety noticed in 1829. There were now no barefooted
friars nor mendicant monks-no Augustines in white, nor Franciscans in gray, with corded belts and dangling cross and rosary.
It was manifest that, at court at least, the monkish days are past:
the high dignitaries of the church in purple and scarlet, in satins
and lace, were the only representatives of the religious orders.
The state apartments in general appeared naked and unattractive compared with the recollections of 1829.  The best paintings




PRESENTATION.                   109
have been removed; one or two only worthy of attention remain.
One, the martyrdom of St. Sebastian, is impressive, and the work
of a master in the art.  There are also some good battle-pieces
illustrative of Portuguese history, in the olden times.  The two
largest pictures represent respectively the coronation of Don
Pedro I., and the marriage of the present Emperor and Empress.
They are coarse and inartistic in execution, but valuable from the
number of portraits they contain, the principal figures introduced
being from sittings to the painter of the personages delineated.
The throne-room  is a large and magnificent apartment, the
predominating colors in the finish and furniture being green and
gold. The lofty, vaulted ceiling, among other embellishments in
fresco, presents medallion portraits, real or fictitious, of all the
sovereigns of the House of Braganza, from the establishment of
the kingdom of Portugal to the present time.
The occasion of the court was the anniversary of the marriage
of their majesties, and the address of congratulation, from  the
diplomatic corps, devolved on Mr. Tod. Entering the room with
a bow, —followed by those to be presented by him-he advanced
midway from the door to the throne, where making another bow,
he took his station, with our party grouped around.  He concluded his speech of felicitation by adding, that "s Commodore
MicKeever, on assuming the command in chief of the U. S. Naval
Force on this station, availed himself —with the officers of his ship
-of the opportunity for a presentation to their majesties.  The
Emperor's reply in Portuguese was brief, and of course courteous.
Immediately on its close, a band in the vestibule struck up the national air: and filing off before the throne, we each in succession
bowed respectively to the Emperor and Empress, and moving backward in a semicircular sweep from the door by which we had entered, bowed ourselves, through another corresponding to it, from
the presence to an ante-room. Being in clerical robes, I might
perhaps have claimed the privilege of a straightforward exit. It
is said that, owing to the fall backwards, in the royal presence, of
a bishop-legate from  Rome —a hundred and more years ago



110               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
from treading on the tail of his gown, in retreating from the
throne at a levee in Lisbon, a permit was issued excusing, thereafter, all clergy in robes from the established etiquette.  Not
having ascertained however whether the privilege had been transmitted to the court of Brazil, I thought it most safe to conform to the general usage, though at the risk, in accomplishing
a distance of forty or more feet in the manner of a crab, of suffering a disaster similar to that of the bishop.
The rest of the foreign ministers and their suite followed us
rapidly.  After these came the hundreds of Brazilians, according
to their rank and precedence, each kneeling on a step of the
throne and kissing the extended- hand of their sovereigns: a
ceremony which, between wedding-days and birth-days, saints'
days and days of independence occurs, on an average, at least
once a month during the whole year.
This bow before the throne will doubtless be the nearest
approach to personal intercourse with their majesties that I shall
enjoy; and I may, at once, in connection with it, give such intelligence, in regard to them, as I have derived from those having
the best opportunities for correct information on the subject.
Their personal appearance I have before described.  The power
vested in the Emperor by the constitution is very limited:
almost nominal indeed, with less influence through the right of
appointments and political patronage in general, than is possessed
by the President of the United States. So carefully restricted
and so jealously guarded are the prerogatives of the throne, that
the abuse of them, by despotic rule or usurpation, would be impracticable. The hereditary descent of the crown is the strongest
monarchical feature in the government: and it is to this alone,
doubtless, that Brazil is indebted for an exemption from  the
anarchy and bloodshed which have proved so destructive to the
advance of liberty and civilization, in all sections of South
America.  While it places an effectual check upon the reckless
ambition of selfish politicians and patriots, falsely so called, it
forms a point of permanency around which the wise and good




IMPERIAL FAMILY.                    111
may rally, in the support and in the defence of true liberty. It
is not impossible that the constitutional restrictions resting on
the Emperor, and an accompanying feeling of irresponsibility, may
cause, in some degree, the seeming nonchalance which marks his
air and deportment in public, and also induce to some extent, at
least, to the quietude and seclusion of his ordinary life.  From
all I learn, nothing can be more simple and domestic than the
habits of himself and family. The library, and its cabinets, the
pleasure-grounds and gardens of San Christovao, chiefly occupy their leisure-time, and are principal sources of their happiness.
Prudent and high-minded as a ruler, cultivated and accomplished as a scholar, benevolent as a man, and pure and irreproachable as a husband and father, the Emperor is justly
regarded with honor and affection by his people; while the
Empress, no less exemplary in all the relations of life, through
her amiability and kindness of heart shares largely with him in
general popularity and good will.
The annual stipend of the Emperor is four hundred thousand
dollars, and the allowance to the Empress fifty thousand.  The
civil list is small, the ladies and gentlemen of the household
being few in number.  They live with prudence and economy;
seldom entertain except by an occasional ball at the palace in
town. With the lessons on the vicissitudes of empire and the
instability of thrones, so frequently given in these modern times,
it is wise in them thus to husband their resources, and to familiarize themselves of choice with habits of life which, by possibility, may yet become those of necessity.  They have already
been afflicted by the loss of two or three children; one, the Prince
Imperial and heir to the crown.  Though two young princesses
are left to them, this may have had a chastening effect on their
hopes in life, by placing the succession in a female, and thus
rendering the perpetuity of their dynasty less certain, than if
there were a male heir to the empire.
It must not be inferred from what I have stated of the out



112              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
ward bearing of the Emperor, or of his habits in private life, that
he takes no interest in the policy of the government or active
part in its executive administration. While content under the
constitutional restrictions of his power, and with the prerogatives
accorded to the throne, he holds his position and exercises his influence firmly and with a noble regard to what he believes to be
the highest interest of the nation; and gives the strength of a
mind, endowed with more than ordinary natural gifts, to the
promotion of measures calculated to advance the honor, dignity
and prosperity of the empire. This has been strikingly manifested
recently, in successful efforts to persuade those around him of
paramount influence in the various provinces, of the evil and
reproach of a continued connivance-in disregard of national faith
given by treaty —at the slave trade, and of the ultimate inevitable disadvantage and disaster to the country of a more extended slave population.  So zealously and so wisely has he
urged his views of public policy on this point-though in the face
of long-established national prejudice as to the necessity of slave
labor —that the legislature, sustained in the measure by their constituents, have pronounced the slave trade piracy, and enacted
rigorous penal laws against it.  This has been accomplished
by demonstrating to the agriculturists of the empire, the
economy and advantages of free labor, through colonization from
Europe, over that of slaves, and by enactments for the encouragement of immigration from abroad,  This is a most important and most desirable step forward in national good, and is
sufficient alone to mark the reign of the young monarch with
true and enduring honor.
October 22d.-Night before last, while walking the poop-deck,
just before our usual evening worship, I met, engaged in some
momentary duty there, a young man named Ramsey, whose frank
and open-hearted face, bright smile, and confiding look and manner
towards me had long ago attracted my notice, and led to more
familiar intercourse with him than with most others of the crew.
Stout in figure, and strong and muscular'n limb, he might have




CASE OF ILLNESS.                   113
been selected as a personification of health and buoyant youth.
In various conversations I had learned something of his history:
the place of residence, circumstances, and position in life of his
parents and family. He had been religiously trained, was a teetotaler in principle and practice from the example of his father,
and, so far as I could learn, free from the open vices which too
often degrade the sailor.
In addition to the prepossession in his favor, from an attractive
exterior, and from the promptness and activity with which he
was observed to discharge his duty, he had early won the praise
and good will of all on board, both officers and men, by saving,
at the risk of his own life, that of a small boy, who fell overboard
from the Congress when at anchor in the stream at Norfolk.
The boy could not swim, and a strong tide was carrying him rapidly
away when Ramsey jumped after him and succeeded in sustaining him half-drowned, till both were rescued by a boat.
A few evenings ago I had observed that one of his eyes was
inflamed and swollen from a cold, and, now, in reference to this,
asked him if he were well again.  " Oh, yes, sir-all rightnever better in my life," was his reply, as with his accustomed
bright smile he passed down to the quarter-deck, where his shipmates were assembling for prayers.
My usual time for exercise on shore is in the afternoon, but
yesterday, being engaged to the Commodore at a dinner given by
him to the British admiral and family, I took the morning for a
walk. On coming on board ship at three o'clock, Dr. Williamson,
the fleet surgeon, mentioned to me that one of the crew had been
taken ill with symptoms of the cholera. It was but a moment
after hearing the name-Ramsey-in answer to the question who
it was? before I was beside his cot on the berthdeck.  He had
been relieved from cramp and pain, by the treatment adopted; the
pulse which had intermitted was restored, and he supposed to be
altogether better. It was not yet twenty hours since I had met
him seemingly in the fullest health; but how altered now, and
how utterly prostrate! He looked rather than spoke his gladness




114              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
at seeing me, and listened to my conversation with interest
and satisfaction.  It was evident that he was still under great
physical oppression, and though endeavoring, occasionally, to rally
his spirits, was dejected and sad-his eyes filling with tears as he
pressed again and again the hand I had given to him at first,
and which he continued to retain in his own as I remained by his
side for a couple of hours, attempting to soothe him by words of
consolation and by whispered prayer.
The sympathies which had been awakened by this unexpected
scene forbade any enjoyment of the party in the cabin, and at
the earliest moment practicable I excused myself from the table
and returned to the poor fellow, not to leave him  again till he
should be out of danger. He was much in the state in which I
had left him: had, if any thing, a stronger pulse and more natural
state of the general surface. I again conversed tenderly with
him and encouraged him  to look in penitence and faith to Him
from whom alone help cometh in time of trouble.  I never witnessed greater submission and patience, and the tones of his voice
and whole manner were as gentle as a lamb. In seeming apology
for the irresistible depression he felt, though he considered himself to be relieved and better, he said to me with a look and accent
I cannot soon forget —" Oh! Mr. S-, I was never sick
before, and it makes me too down-hearted-too down-hearted! "
Poor fellow! who under the same circumstances would not have
been down-hearted-stricken down, in an hour as it were, from
the very fulness of health and strength, and in the bloom and
buoyancy of early manhood, to the feebleness of the merest infant,
and to the very borders of the grave!
The surgeons had told me that every thing in his case depended upon the fidelity of those in attendance upon him to the
directions given; and that there should be no failure here, I at
once took the place of nurse in administering the prescriptions,
and gave myself entirely to him. As the night wore away I
could not discover the change for the better I wished, though I
was not conscious of any for the worse. Dr. Howell, the assistant




FIRST DEATH ON BOARD.                  115
surgeon, who visited him every two hours, encouraged me to continued vigilance and hope.  One, among other injunctions from
the surgeons, was on no account to give any water to the patient,
and only occasionally a mouthful of a tea prepared for the
purpose. But he longed for water, and at one time well-nigh
overcame my purpose of rigid obedience to the orders given.  He
had been almost covered with cataplasms, and had on him besides
two or three large blisters; and the tenderness of his entreaty
in gentle Scotch dialect, after having been once refused-as he
looked up with pleading eyes and said, " Oh!  MIr. S, one
wee drop, for I am  all on fire! " touched my very heart. Poor
fellow! from the best of motives and in the hope of soon seeing
him better I reasoned with him and persuaded him to submission:
but now lament it. The indulgence would have given him temporary comfort and could have done him no harm: for in a short
time afterwards a return of cramps threw him into convulsions,
and I saw that the stroke of death had been given. Unwilling
unavailingly to watch the rapid changes which betokened too
surely the flight of the soul, with the hand which so often during
the day and the night by its warm pressure had given assurance
of the comfort imparted by my presence still clasping mine, I
kneeled by his cot, now surrounded by the surgeons and many of
his messmates, and in tears and in strong though silent supplication plead with Him  who alone is mighty to save, to spare the
immortal spirit of the dying man from the sorrows of the second
death. I do not recollect ever to have been sensible of a nearer
access by faith to the only Hearer of prayer, and never saw more
clearly how it is possible for Him, in the sovereignty and boundless riches of his grace, in the eleventh hour even to have " mercy
on whom he will have mercy."  At four o'clock this morning,
he gently breathed his last without a struggle or a groan.
Such is the first of death's doings among us, and such was the
last on earth of this poor sailor boy.  I am  devoutly thank..
ful that though he died in a foreign land far from his home,
I have it in my power to assure those who most loved him, that




116               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
while all was done that the highest professional skill could devise
to save him, but in vain, he did not die uncomforted, unprayed
for or unwept.
His funeral took place this afternoon. Captain McIntosh,
with the Christian kindness of heart characteristic of him, led the
procession in his gig-the flag of the Congress, as well as those
of the boats leaving the ship, being at half mast. The body was
buried in the beautiful cemetery of Gamboa,
" where palm and cypress wave
On high, o'er many a stranger's grave,
To canopy the dead; nor wanting there
Flowers to the turf, nor fragrance to the air."




CHAPTER X.
RIO DE JANEIRO.
November 2d. —This is " All Souls day," an anniversary of
the church of Rome in commemoration of the dead, when masses
are specially said for the repose of their souls; or, as an Irish
servant, in explaining its character to me, says, " the day when all
the dead stand round waiting for our prayers."  It is one on
which here, as in other Catholic countries, the living also visit the
tombs of their departed friends. As the observance is universal,
and all the churches are open, we thought it a good opportunity,
not only for viewing the interior of the principal edifices themselves, but also for observations of the people; and a party left
tho ship for this purpose early after breakfast.
The number of churches in the city amounts to forty-five or
fifty. Scarce a half dozen of them, however, are worthy of
notice either for their external architecture or internal decorations
in sculpture and paintings, especially to those familiar with the
treasures, in these respects, of the churches of Italy, Spain, and
other European countries.  The imperial chapel and a church
adjoining it, formerly belonging to the barefooted Carmelites,
and now a cathedral; the church of the Candelaria, so named
from its being the chief place for the consecration of candles on
Candlemas Day; and that of San Francisco de Paulo at the head
of the Rua de Ouvidor, are the principal.




118              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
Having been told that the Emperor and Empress would attend
mass at the church of San Antonio, where the remains of their
infant children are deposited, we made our way first there.  This
church is attached to the convent of that name, and forms one end
of the extensive and imposing establishment which so conspicuously crowns, with its lofty and massive walls, and terraced
gardens and shrubberies, the hill to which it gives name in the
centre of the city. The broad platform in front of the church
and convent, paved and parapetted with stone, commands magnificent views of the city and bay; as does the entire front of the
convent. This is three stories in height, with a tier of balconied
windows running the whole length of each. Within, each story
opens upon a cloistered quadrangle; while the church with two
or three smaller chapels, various vesting rooms, sacristies and
corridors form  another end of the pile.  Every part of the
building on this occasion was open to inspection. The floors of
the corridors surrounding the quadrangle, and those of the
churches and chapels are formed of loose planks, six feet in length
and of the width of a grave; each being fitted with a mortised
hole at one end, that it may be the more readily lifted for the
deposit beneath of body after body of the dead: so that none walk
here without literally
"Marking with each step a tomb."
That which first arrested the eye on entering was the range, on
either side through the church, chapels and corridors, of miniature
cabinets, urns and sarcophagi of ebony and other valuable wood,
containing the bones of the dead thus preserved, after having
been freed from  the flesh by the action of quicklime.  These
receptacles are of various sizes, forms and degrees of elaborate
workmanship.  Each bears a plate of silver or gold with an inscription, and is furnished with a door which gives access to
the ghastly memorials. They were arranged —some on rich tables
and platforms and others on the pavement and floor-with more




ALL SOULS DAY.                     119
or less display of ornament: lighted wax candles in massive
candlesticks of silver, interspersed in some instances with other
pieces of silver plate, were clustered around them, and the whole
garlanded and festooned with wreaths of the purple globe amaranthus and other flowers of the tribe " immortelle."  Each
cabinet, or urn, was in charge of a well-dressed negro servant or
other humble domestic of the family to whom  the relics appertained. I was forcibly reminded by the scene of the custom of
the Sandwich Islanders, in their heathen state, of preserving the
bones of the dead in a similar manner.  It was this usage, and
the care and veneration with which the relics of their monarchs and
chiefs were guarded, that enabled Rihoriho-Kamehameha IIto restore to England, on his visit to that country in 1825, the
skeleton of Captain Cook.  After his assassination the principal
bones of his body were prepared according to their custom, and
placed with those of their race of kings.
The principal church and the adjoining chapels were decorated
profusely with artificial flowers, and with hangings of silk and
velvet, and of gold and silver tissue; the high altars, shrines,
tribunes, and organ-lofts of all were one blaze of wax lights. One
of the chapels is covered throughout with elaborate carvings
in wood trebly gilt.  In the centre of this a lofty catafalque was
erected, surmounted by a colossal sarcophagus covered with a
superb pall.  A mass was in progress as we entered; after which
a procession of monks headed by a party of ecclesiastics-each
bearing a wax candle of the size and length of a stout walking
stick, and all vociferating a chant —marched slowly fi-om chapel
to chapel, and from shrine to shrine, through the corridors lined
with the memorials of the departed, stopping at various points to
scatter incense and utter prayers for the dead.  Every spot was
thronged with spectators; but I could detect no feeling of devotion, no sensibility in the affections, no solemnity in any one. The
only object of the assemblage seemed to be to witness a show, and
to examine with the curiosity observable at a fair, or the exhibition of an institute, the varied ornamental display.  Three




120               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
fourths of the crowd were negroes, male and female. Here and
there, in two or three instances, I recognized a party of ladies in
full dress in black with mantillas of lace, but a majority of the
Brazilians and Portuguese present was evidently of the lower
orders. We afterwards entered the churches of San Francisco de
Paulo, the Candelaria and the Carmelites, where the bishop of
Rio was officiating, but without witnessing any thing essentially
different from what we had already seen.
All observation of the day confirms me in the impression
before received, that a great change has taken place, since 1829, in
the respect paid by the people to the superstitious ceremonies of
the religion of the country. There is now little in the general
aspect of things in the streets, even on days of religious festivals,
to remind one of being in a Romish city.  A  monk or even
ecclesiastic is scarce ever met, and whenever I have entered a
church during service, a few  poor negroes, sick persons, and
beggars have constituted the principal part of the assemblage.
Novermber 4th.-I have just accomplished quite a pedestrian
feat, in the ascent of the Corcovado. After two days of such
rain as the tropics only often witness, the weather this morning
was as fine as possible, the atmosphere clear and transparent, very
like the most brilliant days of June in the Northern States, when the
wind is from the north-west. Lieutenant I —     Mr. G —-- (secretary of Commodore McKeever), Prof. Le Froy of the British flag
ship, and I, were induced by it to attempt the excursion, though it
was not in our power to set off before two o'clock in the afternoon
-a late hour for the accomplishment of a walk of nine miles, to
the top-of a mountain, two thousand three hundred and six feet
high, according to the measurement of Beechy, and two thousand
three hundred and thirty-nine, by that of (Captains King and
Fitzroy.
The Corcovado is one of the lofty shafts of granite which, in
a greater or less degree of isolation, are characteristic of the
geological formation in this region. Its relative position to the
range of mountains of which it forms so conspicuous a part, and




ASCENT OF THE CORCOVADO.                  121
the height to which it towers above it, can best be compared,
perhaps, to a colossal buttress standing against a massive building,
with a pinnacled top rising high above the adjoining roof. As
looked up to, from its eastern base in a green valley by the seaside, it appears, as it there really is, an utterly inaccessible mass
of perpendicular rock. On the west, however, it is so joined to
an angle of the general range for two thirds of its height, as to
be comparatively easy of ascent. The first half of the distance
from the city may be made by either of two ways: the one,
through the valley of the Larangeiras, and the other, by the spur
of mountain along which the aqueduct descends into the heart of
the town, near the nunnery of Santa Theresa.  We chose this
last.  At the outset, the ascent is a sharp pitch, but after gaining
a height of one or two hundred feet, is so gradual for four miles
as scarcely to be perceptible.  The way leads along the flattened
ridge of the hill by a bridle path immediately beside the aqueduct, the refreshing sound of whose waters, as they murmur and
rumble in their covered channel, is a pleasant accompaniment to
the sea-breeze sweeping by. It is overhung by embowering trees
which, while they form a screen against the sun overhead, are
too lofty to. interfere by their branches with a full view of the
prospects on either hand. These, for the whole distance, surpass in
beauty and variety any of a similar nature I recollect ever to have
met. As we gradually gained terrace after terrace of the spur, the
pictures opening immediately beneath us in the ravines on the right
-up which the suburbs straggle in tasteful dwellings and blooming gardens; in the broad and bright valley of Engenho Velho beyond, thickly sprinkled with the country residences of the wealthy,
and adorned by the imperial palace; in the city itself-the upper
bay and its islands; the Organ Mountains and whole panorama,
are beyond the powers of description. At the end of two and a
half or three miles, the aqueduct, sinking to a level with the
surface of the ground, crosses the ridge which it has thus far been
following, and leaving the course of this, runs along the face of
the mountain at an elevation of a thousand feet.  The pathway
6




122              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
follows it, and I can compare the suddenness in the change of the
prospect to nothing that will give a better idea of it, than a new
combination in a kaleidoscope, by a turn of the instrument. Itis entire. By a single step, as it were, in place of the above
pictures, which are at once lost sight of, you have the southern
sections of the city —Gloria Hill, Flamengo, Catt6e, Larangieras
anrd Botafogo, the lower bay with its moving imagery, the Sugar
Loaf and its companion at the entrance of the harbor, the islets in
the offing and along the coast, and the boundless sea. The walk
for a mile here, with this picture beneath you on one side, and
the beautifully wooded mountain cliffs above, on the other, is a
terraced avenue worthy of fairy land itself.  Of it Dr. Walsh
justly remarks-" Without exaggeration, it may be said, that there
is not in the world so noble and beautiful a combination of nature
and art, as the prospect it presents."
Five miles from the city, near a natural reservoir in a ledge
of granite where the aqueduct originally commenced, the direct
pathway to the summit leaves the water-course and strikes steeply
up the mountain. Here it is stony and rough, and was now wet
from the recent rain. The angle of elevation, equal to that of
an ordinary staircase, made the ascent fatiguing: but it is
adorned at points by noble specimens of the primeval growth of
the forest, reminding me of the finest of the old elms occasionally
left standing by the pioneer settlers in Western New York, as I
recollect to have been impressed by them  thirty years ago. A
mile and a half through this wood brought us to a clearing of
some extent, with a rancho or cottage, formerly a place of refreshment for those making the ascent.  It has been purchased
recently by the Emperor, and the land is designed by him for a
plantation of foreign pines and other evergreens, which he is
introducing. It lies in a dip or notch between the general chain
of mountains and the peak of the Corcovado; and the cottage, in
full view from the city and harbor, forms a picturesque object
from the anchorage of the Congress, though seemingly, in its airy
height, but a bird's nest clinging to the wooded cliffs.




PANORAMIC VIEW.                     123
Here the ascent of the Corcovado proper commences-the
distance to the summit about two miles. The way is steep and
wearisome, especially after so forced a march over the preceding
part, as we had made; but we pressed on, notwithstanding the
heat and fatigue, cheered by the exhortation and promise of the
poet"Let thy foot
Fail not from weariness, for on the top
The beauty and the majesty of earth
Spread wide beneath, shall make thee to forget
The steep and toilsome way. There thy expanding heart
Shall feel a kindred with that loftier world,
To which thou art translated, and partake
The enlargement of thy vision."
In less than three hours from the city, the bare peak rose
directly before us —a pinnacled platform of rock scarcely twenty
feet square, separated from the general mass by a broad and deep
fissure, over which a rude wooden bridge is thrown. As the peak
has been known to be frequently struck by lightning, it is supposed
that this chasm  was originally caused by a thunderbolt.  A
rail, supported by iron posts soldered into the solid granite, furnishes a guard on three sides to the precipices descending perpendicularly from them.
The panorama commanded by it, embracing as it does all the
imagery that combines in securing to Rio de Janeiro its worldwide celebrity for wonderful beauty, could not fail-under the
advantages of the brilliant atmosphere, bright sunshine and
lengthened shadows in which we gazed on it —to meet our expectations. The entire city and its suburbs lay at our feet; and, like
a map, the bay-near a hundred miles in circuit-its many
picturesque headlands and islands and the Organ Mountains and
chain along the coast, the peak of Tejuca, the Sugar Loaf reduced
to insignificant dimensions, the Gavia, the outer islets and the
illimitable sea! The silence one is disposed to keep, in view of
such a scene from such a point, best expresses perhaps the kind




124                BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
of admiration felt.  Had Bryant in an inspiration of his genius
stood with us, he might possibly have given utterance to a description more sublime but to none more graphic or minutely
true to the scene, than one already recorded by his pen"Steep is the western side, shaggy and wild,
With mossy trees, and pinnacles of flint,
And many a hanging crag. But to the East,
Sheer to the vale, go down the bare old cliffsHuge pillars, that in middle heaven up bear
Their weather-beaten capitals, here dark
With moss, the growth of centuries, and there
Of chalky Whiteness, where the thunder bolt
Has splintered them. It is a fearful thing
To stand upon the beetling verge, and see
Where storm and lightning, from that huge gray wall,
Have tumbled down vast blocks, and at the base
Dashed them in fragments, and to lay thine ear
O'er the dizzy depth, and hear the sound
Of winds that struggle with the woods below,
Come up with ocean murmurs."
There is danger, in the impressiveness of a scene of such
mingled beauty and sublimity, of forgetting the risk of taking
cold, even in the finest weather —after the unavoidable heat and
temporary exhaustion of the ascent-from the reduced temperature
of the elevation, and the freshness of the sea-breeze sweeping over
and around the rock in strong eddies.  But reminded of this by
a sense of chilliness, and aware of the lateness of the day, at the
end of a half hour-grateful for the favorable auspices under
which we had enjoyed the view-we gave a farewell gaze and
turned our faces for the descent.
I omitted to state that, before reaching the plantation of
the Emperor in the dip of the mountains, we had again fallen
upon the line of the aqueduct.  At this point it passes to the
southern side of the range, which here makes an angle in that
direction; and Mr. Lefroy, familiar in his walks with all the




SOURCES OF THE AQUEDUCT.                125
region, proposed that before descending we should follow it
at least a short distance: with the assurance that we would
find  it equal, in picturesque  wildness and beauty, to any
thing we had yet seen.  Though already pretty well fagged,
and a walk of seven miles yet to be made in reaching the city,
we readily assented; and most amply indeed were we rewarded.
The scenery on every hand —above, beneath and around us, in
the strong contrasts of bright sunshine and deep shade, was like
pictures of fancy, with a variety and richness of foliage to be
found only in the tropics.  The aqueduct and path beside it,
scarped on the very face of the precipitous mountain, wind round
the head of a deep glen, at an elevation of two thousand feet
above the valleys beneath and the surf of the ocean; and command uninterrupted views, far and wide, over land and sea, of
indescribable beauty and grandeur.  Parasitical plants and running vines add to the rich drapery of the woods overhead and
beneath the feet, and hang in long pendants from the rocks and
in festoons from tree to tree, while, here and there, the tree ferna novelty to me till now-rises rankly to a height of twenty and
thirty feet: throwing out its closely feathered leaves in an
umbrella-shaped top, proportionate in size to the height of the
stem.
Tempted from point to point, by one new object of admiration
or another, we were led two miles amid this luxury of beauty
before aware of it, almost to the very sources of the work. At
one point, from the impossibility of securing space in the face of
the precipice for stone work, the water is led along in small
wooden troughs, and the footpath, constructed of planks supported
by strong bolts of iron fastened into the rock, is suspended in
the air, with a frightful depth beneath. There is no particular spring or fountain head, from which there is a supply of
water, but from the beginning of the aqueduct, the smallest
streamlet that trickles down the mountain summit is carefully
collected by side troughs, and the drippings of every crevice,
as well as the gushings of more abundant springs, fully secured.




126              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
This aqueduct is a magnificent work for the period at which
it was constructed —a hundred and thirty years ago. It is of
solid granite with a semicircular bottom for the water-course,
and is four feet in width and the same in height; at places
entirely above, and at others partially beneath the ground.  It
is capped with granite in the form of a roof, is furnished with
ventilators protected by iron gratings at regular intervals, and is
accessible for the use of the water at different points, by doors
under lock and key.  The honor of having projected and accomplished so important a work is due to Albuquerque, captaingeneral of the province at the period —1719-23. A record of
this is made on a tablet on the front of the fountain of the Carioca,
near the convent of San Antonio, above which is the reservoir in
which the work terminates. The inscription is of a rudeness
of outline and execution characteristic of the art of writing in
Brazil a century ago; and undecipherable, except by an antiquarian like Dr. Walsh, familiar, from his favorite studies, with
the abbreviations and readings without a division into syllables
and words, of olden times.
The following is the translation of this inscription as given by
Dr. Walsh. " In the reign of the high and powerful king Don
John the Fifth, Ayres de Saldanha and Albuquerque, being
governor and captain-general of this place, by his directions this
work was made, which was begun in the year 1719 and completed
in the year 172.3."
The most magnificent and costly section of the aqueduct —
and one which the now well-known principle in hydraulics, that
water will rise to the level of its head, shows to have been useless
both in labor and expense —is a lofty arcade, a conspicuous ornament of the city, by which the aqueduct is carried across a deep
valley from the hill of Santa Theresa to that of San Antonio
opposite. It consists of two ranges of arches one above the
other, the lower six hundred and the upper eight hundred and
forty feet in length, and forty feet in height. Next to the Roman
remains of the Pont du Garde in Languedoc, the aqueduct




DESCENT FROM THE CORCOVADO.               127
across the Alcantara at Lisbon, and the High Bridge at Harlem,
it is the finest structure of the kind I have seen.
It was near sundown before we reluctantly turned our backs
upon the surprising beauty which still enticed us forward. By a
forced march we accomplished the stony and staircase descent
through the woods, while there was yet sufficient daylight to make
good our footsteps over the rough and slippery way. Safely at
this point, though the night soon gathered around us, we had no
difficulty in keeping the path under the brilliant starlight of the
evening, and reached the city at eight o'clock, having accomplished
the trip of twenty-two miles in six hours.




CHAPTElR XI.
RIO DE JANEIRO.
November 9th. —Saturday more than any other is a day
trying to my spirits. It is that which I appropriate to special
preparation for my professional duties on the Sabbath; and with
it, the hardness and seeming barrenness of my field of labor is,
unavoidably, brought painfully to view. The moral condition
of our ship is equal, probably, if not in advance of that of menof-war in general, in our own or any other service; and the discipline and general order on board good. Indeed, we regard ourselves, and are regarded by others around us, in'these respects as
a peculiarly favored and a happy ship. But mere external propriety of conduct does not satisfy mly expectation, or meet my
hopes. I look for evidences of higher results, from the preaching
of the Gospel and other means of religious influence established
among us, but look in vain; and instead, especially when in port,
find daily discouragements which would lead a spirit, less elastic
than my own, utterly to despair of being instrumental in any
spiritual good.
During the last fortnight, the crew in successive detachments
have been on shore, on a general liberty of forty-eight hours.
The drunkenness and debauchery of many, incident to this,
unavoidably obtruded on my notice in a greater or less degree,
have filled my heart with sadness, and my lips-at the end of a




PRISONS AND PRISON DISCIPLINE.             129
ministry of six months-with the desponding language of the
prophet, " Who hath believed our report? and to whom hath the
arm of the Lord been revealed? "  This has not escaped the
observation of the men themselves, and yesterday, one of them as
spokesman of a group with whom I fell into conversation, said to
me-" We are afraid, Mr. S -, that you will become so
disgusted with our wickedness that you will leave the ship, and
give us np to the devil altogether: but we hope not." To do
this would be to act the part of a coward and a traitor; and
knowing in whom alone is the sufficiency for these things, I must
still labor-bear and forbear-preach with fidelity and love, pray
without fainting, and hope against hope.
The privileges of the shore over, all were settling down into
customary contentment and quietude when, by some means last
evening, a large quantity of strong drink was successfully smuggled
into the ship. There is ever in a man-of-war a greater or less
degree of unmitigated rascality which, on such occasions, does
not fail to manifest itself, giving the executive of the ship an
abundance of trouble, and bringing reproach upon the better portions of the crew. The consequence of the successful strategy was
a good deal of disorder last night among'" the baser sort " of the
ship's company, and a nervous headache and a heartache this
morning to me.
One result of the liberty on shore, was the incarceration for
drunkenness and riotous conduct, of a half dozen or more of our
men, in the calabouqa or common jail of the city. An early
intimation of the dilemma in which these were placed reached
me, with an appeal for aid in procuring their release. A visit to
them for this purpose, gave me the opportunity of a personal
inspection of the prison. While confessing and lamenting the
folly which had brought them  there, they complained most
grievously, as well they might, of the horrible place. It is time
indeed for some Howard to arise in Brazil; and I rejoice to learn
that the state of her prisons and the subject of prison discipline,
or rather the fact of an utter want of all discipline, is attracting
IA*




130               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
the attention of some of her philanthropists and statesmen.  Our
fellows, at the end of two or three days, were almost starved. No
food is served to the prisoners by authority.  They are entirely
dependent on their own resources, the kindness of any friends
they may happen to have, or the supplies furnished gratuitously
by some of the brotherhoods of benevolence in the city.  I found
those from the Congress-chargeable only with having broken the
peace in a drunken brawl-in a filthy room of horrible smells,
crowded with eighty or a hundred felons, black, white and colored
of every hue. Among these' were robbers, and murderers, and
criminals of the most desperate character: without classification
in age or crime-beardless boys, arrested for the most trifling
and venial offences, being placed side by side with gray-headed
veterans in vice.. Our men had stripped themselves more than
half naked, that their clothes might furnish no ambush for the
vermin with which the place was filled; and  gave pitiful
accounts of the nights they had spent, in stifling heat, amid clouds
of mosquitoes and other insects, with no beds but the rough
plank of the floors, open in large crevices to the effluvia from the
common cesspool of the whole prison immediately beneath.  A
civil and intelligent young man of their number told me that,
till "' this spree," he had not tasted strong drink for two years
past; and had been well punished, for the indulgence, by a week
in this frightful and disgusting hole. Giving them the means of
relief from immediate hungeir, I promised to do what I could for
their liberation; and the youngster referred to, the last-from
some mistake in his name —to gain a release, has just come thankfully on board.
November 12th. —A ball on board the Congress and a soiree at
the American Embassy have afforded, within the week past, our
first opportunities of mingling in the society of Rio. It required
but a short tinme to transform the quarter-deck of the frigate
from a grim battery into a brilliant ball-room. The guns having
been run out of sight on the forecastle, the awnings screened by
the flags of all nations, in flutings overhead and in festoons at




BALL ON SHIPBOARD.                   131
the sides, and the decks artistically chalked in colors, the interior
soon presented the aspect of a spacious and gay saloon. In this,
at different points, muskets arranged in thick clusters with a candle
in each muzzle, formed glittering and becoming candelabra; and
pistols and bayonets similarly arrayed and mounted, made brackets
for lights along the sides and chandeliers above, while a graceful amenity was thrown over these implements of death, by wreaths
of evergreen intermingled with bouquets of flowers rich in color
and perfume.  The poop-deck overlooking this dancing room, was
transformed by similar decorations into a lofty, tented pavilion,
from which those not disposed to join in the amusement below,
might view the spectacle and enjoy each other's society in conversation.
The ship was illuminated outside, by lines of lights running
up each mast and by lanterns suspended from the yard-arms.
While the company were assembling, rockets were sent up, to add
to the brilliancy, and blue lights burned on the arrival of the
most distinguished of the guests. Thus the effect without, in
approaching in the dark, was scarce less striking and beautiful
than the coup d'oeil within, on crossing the gangway. The only
interest I took in the preparations was in having the draperies,
which separated these brilliant apartments from the forward deck,
so arranged as to allow the crew-who would be kept from their
hammocks till a late hour by the entertainment-to be spectators
of the scene. This indulgence was readily accorded; and,
during the whole evening, our hardy tars in a uniform dress of
white and blue, clustered in thick rows from the mainmast forward, formed by no means the least striking feature in the
spectacle. Indeed, their fine physical aspect and becoming deportment attracted much observation; and elicited the most
complimentary remarks upon them, as a body of men, from the
most distinguished strangers on board.
The company on this occasion consisted principally of resident
foreigners, diplomatists, and their families, and the officers of the
national ships in port. There were few native Brazilians among




132              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
them. Under the impression that the entertainment given by
Mr. and Mrs. Tod would embrace the higher circles of the native
society, I joined the party from the ship attending it. The mansion occupied by the Legation is at Praya Flamengo, where I was
so much at home in 1829. It is spacious and lofty, with a stately
suite of reception-rooms on the second floor, which command
fine views of the bay and its chief features near the sea. It was
illuminated in front, and brilliantly lighted and tastefully decorated
with flowers within. According to Brazilian custom on occasions
of fete, the tesselated pavement of thle vestibule and hall, and
the marble staircase leading to the reception-rooms, were strewn
with the fresh leaves of the mango tree and various aromatic
plants which, under the pressure of the feet, send forth a grateful
perfume. A garden in the rear, filled with myrtle and orange
trees, and gay with the blossoms of the pomegranate and oleander, was also illuminated, and seen opening in  perspective
from  the hall, with pretty effect.  The company was large;
exhibiting a good deal of dress among the ladies, in the latest modes
of Paris, and some fine diamonds. There was, too, a sprinkling of
title and nobility, and a little beauty, but nothing more distinctively Brazilian, or characteristic of nationality, than in the party
on board the Congress.
At an early hour after the civilities of the reception, and a general interchange of salutations, dancing was commenced and continued to be the chief amusement of the evening.  There was nothing in the scene with which I could sympathize, and I withdrew
from the crowded and heated rooms to the terraced-walk fronting
the beach. Here, a land breeze, deliciously fresh and fragrant,
came fanning down the mountain's side; and I passed two hours
and more in the enjoyment of it, in a promenade back and forth
of a quarter of a mile, beneath a gloriously lighted sky, while
every thing was hushed to a midnight repose, except the sounds
of the distant music of the dance, and the rush, and roar, and
the thunder at my feet of the foaming surf.
On returning to the house I met Mr. Tod in the lower rooms,




WESTERN  SUBURBS OF RIO.                 133
the supper-room being about to be thrown open. The banquet
was profuse and luxurious. A chief novelty among its delicacies,
at either end of the principal table, was the choicest fish of the
adjoining seas —the garoupa.  It is very large, and, on the
present occasion, was baked whole and served cold.  From the
general demand for it, especially among the ladies, I should have
judged the dish to be in high estimation, without the assurance
of the fact.  It is a rarity, and its market price very high.  Sums,
I am told, are sometimes given for it which I dare not venture
to state, without further inquiry, lest either my veracity or
credulity, or both, might be put in question.
November 15th. —Yesterday afternoon I accompanied Captain
McIntosh, Lieut. P —-- of the British flag ship, and Lieut. T —
of the Congress, in a drive of five miles to the country residence of Mr. R —, an English gentleman, a partner in one of
the wealthiest -mercantile houses in Rio.  An invitation to an
evening party had been received from Mrs. R —-—, a few days
before, and the call we now made was in acknowledgment of the
civility. The direction of the drive was westward, through the
rich and broad valley which extends seven or eight miles from
the city, to the foot of the mountains of Tejuca.  High walls of
brick and stone, or lofty hedges equally impenetrable to the eye,
cut off the view of the pleasure gardens and grounds surrounding
the residences in the suburbs, from  those seated in the low
carriages at present in fashion, and I chose a more elevated seat
beside the coachman-though at the risk, in a black dress and
white cravat, of being taken for a servant out of livery-rather
than forego the advantage of this better point for observation;
especially as there was no inconvenience from the sun, the afternoon being overcast and gray, such as do not often occur here
without rain. But for this position I should have lost much of
the enjoyment of the drive.
Half the distance is a continued suburb of the city; and the
remainder a succession of cottages, villas, and mansions in a
greater or less degree of proximity-the residences of the aristo



134               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
cratic and wealthy, both natives and foreigners. A predominating
fancy with these seems to be the exhibition of showy entrances
and gateways, little in keeping in their stateliness, in many
instances, with the inferior style and dimensions of the dwellings
themselves.  Some of these last, however, are quite palatial. One
of this kind was pointed out, as an evidence of the talent for
business, and the prosperous fortunes of a colored man.  The
gardens and grounds on every side are luxuriant in the display
of flowers, shrubbery and trees, and often tastefully embellished
with vases, casts, statuary and fountains of graceful and classic
model. The rapidity of vegetation in weeds and grass, as well as
in more valuable growth is such, however, as to make perfect
neatness and good keeping in the grounds difficult.  One great
defect in them, which cannot fail to arrest the eye unaccustomed to it, is the entire absence of the close sod and velvet turf,
which give such smoothness and softness to lawns and pleasure
grounds in the United States and in England.  The burning sun
of this latitude kills the roots of such growth, and there is no
close set grass here. All that is native is coarse, tufted, and
straggling. The site of the city was originally a marsh, and this
interval land, between the bay and the mountains, is low and wet.
The soil, a stiff clay, causes the roads in rainy weather soon to be
so cut up as to become almost impassable, and in dry, to be both
rough and dusty.
The residence of MIr. R —-, crowning a gently swelling hill
in the midst of a lovely valley, rises conspicuously to the view
while yet a mile from it.  It is an old Brazilian house of unpretending and cottage-like aspect, soon to give place to a new building: but looked rural and attractive, and commands a splendid
panorama.  Here the gateway is of a simplicity corresponding
with that of the house. It opens, at the distance of a quarter
of a mile from this, into an avenue of young mango trees, winding
gradually up the ascent and bordered on either side by a hedge
of the double scarlet hibiscus, whose polished leaves of green
were studded with bright flowers.




COUNTRY SEAT OF MR. Ri-.                 135
A long and lofty saloon, so well furnished with windows as
to be readily converted almost into an open pavilion, occupies
the whole front of the house. A flight of stone steps at either
end ascends from the carriage drive to this. A similar apartment
in the rear forms the dining-room; while between these, and
lighted only through them, is the drawing-room. In a colder
climate an apartment thus situated would, in the day time, be
dark and gloomy; but here, where for a great part of the year a
glaring and glowing sun pours down upon every thing, it forms a
welcome retreat into which the light comes only in subdued and
grateful shade.
We had made the acquaintance of Mrs. and Miss R —- at
the entertaimnents mentioned under my last date; and, on being
ushered into the saloon were received by them in a most frank
and courteous manner.  Mrs. R —-, though a native Brazilian,
has been much in England, and Miss R —- has but lately completed her education there. Both are of pleasing address and
most gentle and amiable. After a half hour in conversation a
walk in the grounds was proposed, the freshness of the evening
with a land breeze from the mountains having set in. WVe had
already discovered the views in every direction to be lovely:
embracing the rich valley through which we had driven, the
mountains bordering it on one side and the fantastic peaks in
which they terminate at its head behind; with cottages and
country houses scattered thickly around, and the imperial palace
of San Christovao encircled with plantations in full view.
Glimpses of the city were caught in the far distance in front;
and, with a glass, the tapering masts of the Congress, surmounted
by her broad pennant, rising high above the tallest of its towers
and steeples.
From the end of the saloon opposite to that at which we had
entered, an embowered grapery leads to a stream at the foot of
the hill, overhung with trees and beautifully fringed with the
lofty and graceful bamboo. Along the green banks of this, the
gardens, filled with the greatest variety of shrub and flower,




136              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
spread widely among fruit-bearing and ornamental trees, including a succession of orange groves.  Through these we sauntered
with great delight, tasting of the various fruits; examining, in
the fine display of the botanical kingdom around, things old
and new; resting upon a rustic seat here and there; and finally
becoming grouped in a picturesque bower of living bamboo, whose
thickly clustered stems at the sides and feathery tops interlaced
overhead effectually exclude the sun, and secure, even at midday, a retreat of refreshing coolness.  Among entire novelties to
us were the Jaca or jack'fruit-artocarpus lindicus-or East
India bread fruit, and the Brazilian plum.
We were here joined by Mr. R —-- and his sons, by Lieut.
F —--  of our ship, and Mr. Lawrence McKeever, a son of the
commodore, an attache of an American partner of the house in
which iMr. R —- is the English principal.  Mr. RII    to the reputation of an able and successful merchant adds that of a wellread man, thoroughly furnished with intelligence in regard to all
subjects of local and general interest in Brazil. His conversation is thus both interesting and instructive.
As twilight began to gather round us, we returned to the
house, and were summoned to a tea-table in the dining-hall well
spread as in the olden times at home, not only with every delicacy
appropriate to the repast, but with such substantial dishes, also,
as those who had been riding and driving and walking, since an
early dinner, might be disposed to welcome. There was an air
of genuine hospitality in the well-covered length of the board,
which carried me back to the tables of our friends of Massena
and of the Lakelands in former days, telling that like theirs it
was no unaccustomed thing thus to be drawn out to its full length
by the presence of some eight or ten unexpected guests, in addition to a large family circle.  With a number of well-trained and
neatly-dressed negro servants in attendance, the whole scene was
more like that of an ordinary exhibition of American hospitality,
as I recollect it in boyhood, even in the Northern States, than any
thing I have for a long time witnessed. It was half past nine




BRITISH FLAG-SEIP.                  137
o'clock before we took leave; yet, such is the Jehu style of driving
that we were not only at the landing in the city, where the
captain's gig was in waiting for us, but safely on board ship by
ten.
The rainy season is not so strongly marked at Rio as in many
tropical regions, though at this period of the year more rain falls
than at any other. To-day it poured in torrents from the early
morning, while an impenetrable fog has been rushing from the
sea, before a driving wind. The worst of this state of things, to
some of us on board the Congress, was an engagement of several
days' standing to a dinner with Admiral Reynolds, the English
commander-in-chief on this station.  We looked in vain as the
appointed hour approached, for any abatement in the wind and
rain, or the arrival of a messenger to say we would not be expected; and, at a quarter to six, the barge was called away and
Commodore McKeever, Captain McIntosh and I, with such
protection as our boat cloaks could give, were in the midst of the
storm pulling for the flag ship.  Fortunately the distance was
scarcely more than a quarter of a mile.  We escaped getting wet,
and in the shelter and elegant appointments of the admiral's
cabins soon forgot the discomfort of the pull on board.
The want of a higher grade of rank in the navy of the United
States than that of post captain, while in the British service and
that of other nations there is not only that of admiral, but six
degrees of advancement in that rank, often leads to embarrassment
and an unpleasant state of feeling between those bearing other
flags and our commanders-in-chief. The preposterous expectation
and, in many instances, pertinacious claim of equality in rank
and reciprocity in official honors, where there is confessedly an
inferiority of commission, and in contravention of the established
rules of military etiquette, not unfrequently limit the intercourse
between American commodores and European admirals to the
cold formalities of an official visit.  Where this is the case, the
association of the officers of the respective squadrons is, in a
greater or less degree, of the same character. Happily for myself




138              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
I have never been placed in this position. On the contrary, in
all the ships to which I have been attached, the most friendly
relations have been established with English ships of war, on the
same station.  Such is the case with the Congress and the Southampton. By mutual courtesy and good will, the official and
social intercourse of the two commanders-in-chief was on our
arrival at once placed on a desirable footing. The consequence is,
that the officers of the respective ships are left to an unembarrassed association. This has proved cordial, and many in both
ships visit each other with the intimacy and informality of congenial neighbors on shore.
SMrs. Reynolds accompanied the admiral from England and
lives on board ship. She is a person of intelligent and cultivated
mind and of frank and pleasing address; and the birds and
flowers, the drawings and cabinets in natural history which, in
addition to a choice library, adorn the apartments of the Southampton, at once bespeak the presence and taste of an accomplished
woman. In addition to the military family of the admiral, which
consists of the captain of the ship, the flag-lieutenant and the
secretary who are regularly at his table, we had the company
of two or three other officers, including the Rev. Mr. P —,
the chaplain. Besides this gentleman, I was happy to meet in
the party others whom I found to be enlightened and spiritual
Christians, as well as agreeable and well-bred men. It is unnecessary to say that the entertainment was sumptuous: served
in plate, with all the appointments of the table in the elegant
keeping of English aristocratic life. The summons to the dining
cabin was by music from a fine band; and with the removal of
the cloth and her majesty's health, we had 1" God save the Queen,"
followed by," Hail Columbia " and a succession of passages from
the choicest operas. Our reception was the more cordial, perhaps,
from the badness of the weather; and the whole evening marked
with such free interchange of thought and feeling that it seemed
a family party at home.  The effect to me of such an impression in
this far off land, has been an irresistible fit of the " mal du pays."




GARDEN OF DON JUAN    ----—.             139
November 20th.-The Praya San Domingo and Praya Grande
on the eastern side of the bay, continue to be favorite resorts with
us, especially when Captain McIntosh is leader of the party.
He holds in abhorrence the filth of the city side. The interest
of our visits has been much increased by the acquaintance
accidentally formed with a Portuguese family, shortly after the
return of the Congress from the Plata. In a stroll we were
taking there, we passed a plantation, the extent and thriftiness
of which had before attracted our notice. The principal gateway
now stood open, exhibiting, in long vista, an avenue of young
palms, whose interlacing branches completely over-arched the walk
beneath.  A  group of slaves were at work just within; and
coupling our admiration with a question as to the privilege of entering, we had scarcely received an affirmative reply, before the proprietor, Don Juan M, made his appearance from a wilderness of
luxuriant growth on one side, courteously bidding us welcome, and
becoming himself our guide. There is nothing artistic or particularly tasteful in the manner in which the grounds are laid
out; but they are in high cultivation, and the variety and exuberance of the growth, and the novelty to us of many of its forms,
made them  very attractive.  Fruits, flowers, and vegetablesshrubs, plants, and trees are so closely intermingled, as to shut
out all view, except in each immediate path, or at the intersecting
angles of the larger alleys. In other places endless beds, so
arranged as to be easily irrigated, are filled with every kind of
vegetable in the greatest profusion; while above wave the broad
leaves of the banana and plantain, the feathery palm, and the
closely set, and pinnated foliage of the mango.  Many of the
paths are bordered with coffee trees, now in full bloom.  These are
allowed to grow to a height of ten or fifteen feet, and are in the
form of a bush.  The blossoms, of the purest white, appear in
general effect like those of the double jessamine.  They cluster
thickly over the branches, and contrast beautifully with the dark
green of the polished leaves. Among the exotics are the cinna



140              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
mon, clove, and nutmeg, and the climbing vine of the black
pepper.
In the course of our ramble we came upon the wash-house of
the establishment-an open, tile-covered lodge or verandah, supported by pillars of brick, and furnished with a wide and deep
tank or reservoir of water, troughs, tubs and slabs of stone for
the various operations of the laundry.  Three or four negresses
were engaged in the appropriate work of the place, with their
children at play around. Near one of the mothers, in a fiat
basket on the ground, lay, kicking and crowing as if ready to
spring out of its skin, an entirely naked and shining little negro,
six or eight months of age —one of the brightest and cleanest
looking little rogues I ever saw. It was black as the purest
ebony, and in a perfection of form  fitting it for the model of a
cupid, or infant Apollo, or Adonis. It looked so healthy, and so
wholesome, and so perfectly pure, as to be provocative almost of a
kiss; and one of our party-who, in strong remembrance of his
own little ones at home, has a perfect passion for every child he
meets, whether black or white-was so delighted that I thought
he would scarcely rest satisfied in his caressing, short of such an
evidence of admiration.
At the end of a half hour we came again into the principal
avenue, leading from the gate to the base of a steep hill, or rather
cliff, overhanging the gardens, from the brow of which the dwelling of Don Juan looks down as upon a map. Detained already,
it appeared, from an appointment of business by his attentions
to us, he here apologized for the necessity of taking leave, but
begged us to continue our walk up the hill, from which we would
have a magnificent view; and called a negro lad to guide us.
We willingly complied, and advanced by a winding path up the
steep. Among the growth not before noticed, we here observed
the peach, apple, and pomegranate, interspersed with grove after
grove of orange trees, heavily laden with golden fruit.  The
house is a long, tile-roofed cottage of one story, surrounded by
broad piazzas, opening upon flagged terraces.  The pointed top




MADAME MI.                    141
of the hill has been cut down to a platform, sufficient only in
extent for the area of the dwelling, with a shrubbery and flower
garden on one side, and a dovecote and quarters for the housenegroes on the other. The whole is perched upon the angular
point of a precipitous promontory overlooking the bay of St.
Francis Xavier, from which a heavy surf rolls beneath, breaking,
in part, amid a cluster of fantastic and columnar rocks, and in
part upon a white sand beach. To reach the best point for a
panoramic view at the end of the flower garden, we were conducted through the reception rooms, in the centre of the cottage,
furnished with some showy articles of French manufacture-a
piano, sofa, vases of painted china. The landscape and water
view at every point are superb-especially on the garden front,
with the wild surf beneath, and the islet of Boa Viageim for
a foreground-its fantastic  cliffs of strongly  colored  earths
draped with bright verdure, and crowned by its picturesque little
chapel.  The varied movements of sail in the lower harbor; the
bright gleatnings of the city along the shores of Flamengo and
Botafogo; with the Sugar-loaf and adjoining hills, and the Gavia
and Corcovado in sublime groupings in the distance, formed
together a picture of unrivalled beauty. The coloring, and
effective shades of a sunset of crimson and gold, exhibited the
whole with gorgeous effect; and we stood fascinated by it, till the
gathering twilight hastened us to our boat..Commodore 3MeKeever and Mr. G~  accompanied us in a
second visit which we were invited by Don Juan to make, a few
evenings afterwards. We were welcomed with the cordiality of
old friends, and after a walk through the grounds, were conducted
to the house, introduced to Madame M-, and served with
coffee, sweetmeats and liqueurs.  We soon discovered the mistress
of the establishment to be of the order of women, so graphically
described by the wise man-" she seeketh wool and flax, and
worketh willingly with her hands.  She looketh well to the ways
of her household, and eateth not the bread of idleness. Her
children arise and call her blessed, her husband also, and he




142              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
praiseth her." Through the open windows of the verandah, as
we entered, we saw her busily engaged, amid a group of female
slaves, old and young, in the cutting and fitting of garments which
they were sewing; and learned from her husband that her agency,
as well as supervision, was thus exercised in the whole economy
of the establishment. In dress, she was in the dishabille common
among the females, and males too, in this climate, at least till a
late hour of the day; a loose wrapper with a colored silk pockethandkerchief over the head. On the summons of Don Juan, she
joined us without apology in regard to her toilette; and after the
refreshments were served, while we were enjoying the view at the
point of the promontory, gathered and arranged for each of us a
choice and beautiful bouquet.
In acknowledgment of the kindness of thus throwing open
their grounds and house to us, an invitation was given for a visit
to the Congress. This was readily accepted, and they have since
passed a morning on board. It was their first visit to a man-ofwar, and they professed to take more interest in it, and to feel
themselves more highly honored from its bearing the stripes and
stars of the United States, than they could under any other flag.
We scarcely recognized the Dona at first, under the aspect of
a visitor. In place of the Portuguese neglige, in which we were
received by her at home, she now appeared in the latest style
of Parisian promenade costume: with silks and laces and expensive embroideries, in a correctness of taste and good-keeping,
that proved her by no means unaccustomed to the elegancies of
the toilette. Don Juan is a man of intelligence and of much
practical good sense and observation. Among many things on
board, which attracted his attention, aside from the equipment
and peculiar character of our ship in military appointment, was
a small homceopathic medicine chest in the captain's cabin. He
is a warm advocate of this system, and a practitioner of it in his
own family; and he informed us that in forty cases of fever,
among his slaves, during the late epidemic, he allowed of no other
treatment, and did not lose a single patient, though many negroes
around him died of the pestilence under allopathic practice.




CHAPTER XII.
RIo DE JANEIRO.
November 26th.-The heat of the mornings on shore is becoming so intense as to make walking oppressive. Till the setting in of the sea-breeze about mid-day, the ship is altogether
more desirable than any other place accessible to us. Moored
in the direct line of the winds from the sea, her decks with awnings spread fore and aft, form a delightful lounging-place; one
never without attractions, in the constant movements on the bay,
and the varying and beautiful effects produced upon its imagery,
by hourly atmospheric changes. This you can readily understand
from daily experience at Riverside. Like the verandah there,
the poop of the Congress here commands a wide-spread panorama
of water, mountain, and valley, ever varying in its aspects of lights
and shade, sunshine and clouds, tints and coloring, and tempting
one to give too much time to mere admiration of the changing
picture.
When the atmosphere is peculiarly brilliant, the mountains
stand out with a nearness and strength of light that exposes to
clear view the chisellings of their minutest features.  With a
good glass, every rock and tree, and almost every shrub, of the
nearer ranges is then brought, seemingly, within touch; while the
sublime chain, forty and fifty miles distant in the north, exhibits,
through the same medium, not only the fantastic spikes and fin



144               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
gers from which it derives its name, but the minuter formations
of the wooded sides also, furrowed by water-courses, and streaked
here and there with the silver line of a cataract in a deep glen.
Then again, the whole stand, with undistinguishable features, like
massive walls of purple and blue, the upper profile only of their
jagged outlines being marked boldly against the sky.
In the morning, the whole bay is smooth and glassy as a lake.
one vast mirror, along whose edges are repictured in strong and
unbroken reflection, mountain and city, church-tower, fortress, and
convent, in minute fidelity, while all the men-of-war, and the
little craft floating by with useless sails, lie in duplicate around.
The sun glares hotly-not a breath of air is stirring, and every
one is oppressed. But watching seaward, the topsails of the
inward-bound in the far offing are seen, by and by, to be gently
filling with a breeze; presently,' cats-paw' after  ecats-paw' comes
creeping through the channel and up the bay; till soon, in place of
a glaring and oppressive calm, its surface is dancing with' whitecaps;' the lateen sail boats, careening to the wind and dashing
the spray from their bows, rush past and around us like " playful
things of life; " the inward-bound with wide-spread wings come
hastening to the anchorage; every one drinks in with delight
the welcome draught; and for the rest of the day, new aspects
and new life are imparted to every thing and every body. At
times, this sea-breeze is supplanted by a half gale from the, same
direction, causing so much of a swell as to raise breakers between
us and the landing, and partially to interrupt communication
with the shore. This was the case a day or two since, when the
surf rolled along nearly the whole length of the city. The
change in the temperature too, is frequently so great as to lead
to the substitution of cloth clothing for that of light summer
wear, and to the buttoning closely of the coat to avoid a sense
of chilliness.
Towards evening the sea-breeze ordinarily dies away; and, by
sunset, a glassy surface again reflects the gorgeous coloring which
now mantles the mountains, and gilds with brightness the pronmi




METEOROLOGICAL CHANGES.                 145
nent architecture of the city.  As the short twilight settles into
darkness, regular lines of brilliant lamps gleam for miles along
the shores on either side of the bay, and up the ridges and over
the tops of the hills in the city; the bright radiance of unnumbered stars falls from above; and the land-breeze, gently fanning
down the mountain sides, brings with it the freshness and fragrance of their woods and flowers.
Often a thunder-storm of thick blackness, with forked lightning, is seen raging among the mountain peaks without approaching
nearer; and oftener still, magnificently culminating summer clouds,
heaped pile upon pile above them, exhibit a play of electric light,
of a beauty and splendor sufficient for the pastime of the evening. We had a remarkable display of this kind a night or two
ago; the flashes were more vivid and more incessant than I
recollect ever before to have witnessed.  Masses of black clouds,
towering to the zenith on every side, made the night exceedingly
dark.  In the momentary intervals between the flashes there was
a darkness that might almost be felt —utterly impenetrable even
at the shortest distance-and making inexpressibly grand and
beautiful the more than mid-day brightness which instantly followed, disclosing to microscopic view every object far and near.
From the cause named at the beginning of this date-the heat
of the mornings-my visits on shore, for the long walk which you
know to be an essential daily enjoyment to me, are chiefly in the later
hours of the afternoon and evening.  As the last regular boat of
the ship leaves the shore punctually at sunset, this necessity of
choosing so late a period of the day would subject me to the
inconvenience of coming off in a shore boat, and the disgust of
breathing the atmosphere by which the vicinity of the common
landing is nightly polluted, were it not for the social arrangements
of the Commodore.  Intimacy with the Ambassador and his
family, and other American friends in the same neighborhood,
leads him with Mr. Go    to pass most of his evenings at the
Praya Flamuengo.  His barge awaits him regularly, at nine o'clock,
at a sheltered and pleasant landing near the Gloria Hill.  A seat
7




METEOROLOGICAL  CHANGES.                145
nent architecture of the city. As the short twilight settles "iito
darkness, regular lines of brilliant lamps gleam for miles along
the shores on either side of the bay, and up the ridges and over
the tops of the hills in the city; the bright radiance of unnumbered stars falls from above; and the land-breeze, gently fanning
down the mountain sides, brings with it the freshness and fragrance of their woods and flowers.
Often a thunder-storm of thick blackness, with forked lightning, is seen raging among the mountain peaks without approaching
nearer; and oftener still, magnificently culminating summer clouds,
heaped pile upon pile above them, exhibit a play of electric light,
of a beauty and splendor sufficient for the pastime of the evening.'We had a remarkable display of this kind a night or two
ago; the flashes were more vivid and more incessant than I
recollect ever before to have witnessed.  Masses of black clouds,
towering to the zenith on every side, made the night exceedingly
dark.  In the momentary intervals between the flashes there was
a darkness that might almost be felt —utterly impenetrable even
at the shortest distance-and making inexpressibly grand and
beautiful the more than mid-day brightness which instantly followed, disclosing to microscopic view every object far and near.
From the cause named at the beginning of this date-the heat
of the mornings-my visits on shore, for the long walk which you
know to be an essential daily enjoyment to me, are chiefly in the later
hours of the afternoon and evening. As the last regular boat of
the ship leaves the shore punctually at sunset, this necessity of
choosing so late a period of the day would subject me to the
inconvenience of coming off in a shore boat, and the disgust of
breathing the atmosphere by which the vicinity of the common
landing is nightly polluted, were it not for the social arrangements
of the Commodore.  Intimacy with the Ambassador and his
family, and other American friends in the same neighborhood,
leads him with Mr. G —   to pass most of his evenings at the
Praya Flaluengo.  His barge awaits him regularly, at nine o'clock,
at a sheltered and pleasant landing near the Gloria Hill. A seat
7




A14               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
itghis is always in reserve for me; and, whether visiting with him
or not, I am sure of a passage in good season to the ship.  I am
thus left at liberty to range the hills and valleys at my pleasure
towards the close of day, and to take my fill of such delights as
nature, in her exuberance and ever-varying beauty in ten thousand forms, here affords. A chief drawback to the pleasure is
the want of a companion in my rambles. Such of my messmates
as have a round of ship's duty in their order, find sufficient exercise in pacing the decks in its discharge, and are often too much
fatigued to start in search of the picturesque; others, though at
leisure, less inured to fatigue than I am, think the beauty of the
upland haunts I most frequent, scarcely worth the effort required
at all points, in the first sharp ascent of a half mile, by which
only they are attained. Hence my evening strolls of this kind
are solitary: still" My steps are not alone
In these bright walks; the sweet southwest, at play,
Flies, rustling, where the tropic leaves are strown
Along the winding way.
And far in heaven the while,
The sun that sends the gale to wander here,
Pours out on the fair earth the quiet smileThat sweetens all the year."
The row, at night, of two miles and more to the ship is of
itself a pleasure: sometimes beneath a bright moon, with the palmtopped trees and convent towers of Santa Theresa on our left,
marked in silver against the sky; sometimes amid a darkness which
leaves nothing for our guide but the signal lanterns for the Commodore, at the peak of the far-off Congress; and sometimes
again, amid a display of phosphorescence in the water, sufficient
to excite both admiration and surprise.  The regular dip of the
oars, then, creates splendid coruscations: streams of apparent fire
run from the uplifted blades, while the barge, under the impulse
of fourteen stalwart oarsmen, rushes on through a wide trough
seemingly of molten silver.




SHOPS AND SHOPPING.                   147
But I am forgetting the object for which I opened my journal
-to say, that in despite of the heat, I have spent two mornings,
within the past week, in a stroll along the shaded side of the Rua,
Ouvidor, in company with the Commodore, Captain and Mr.
G', on a visit of curiosity to the various shops with which it
is lined. The show windows of these rival those of Broadway,
in the display of rich fancy goods of English, French, and German
manufacture, and of jewelry, articles of vertu, drawings, engravings, and bijouterie. Among the jewellers' shops which we entered
was one, having for its sign the imperial arms and crown in rich
gilding-thus indicating the special patronage of their majesties
and the court.  The person in attendance received us most politely, and, though we at once apprised him that our object was not
to purchase, exhibited his choicest caskets, from those valued at
a few hundred dollars to those at as many tens of thousands. Most
of the contents were native diamonds and other precious stones
tastefully arranged and artistically set. The workmen here are
celebrated for skill in this respect, and for the delicacy and finish
of their filagree in silver, and chasings in gold.  Rio is also celebrated for the manufacture of artificial flowers from  feathers.
Those most valued are of the choicest and rarest humming birds.
The changing tints of some of these are more rich and varied
than those of the opal. Such are much prized and are expensive.
The counterpart of a set recently ordered by the Princess de
Joinville was as costly as so much jewelry.  The manufactories
are in large shops open entirely in front to the street, and, the
artisans being chiefly young girls, are favorite resorts and lounging places of shoppers and idlers.
It must not be inferred that in thus spending a morning in
shopping, we were encroaching on the prerogatives of the ladies of
Brazil. The usage of the country denies them this pastime. Portuguese and Spanish views of the liberty of outdoor locomotion to
be allowed to females-traceable to the Moorish estimate of their
trust worthiness and virtue-prohibit to them here in a great degree
the privileges of the street. In the early morning they maybe seen,




148               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
dressed in black, and attended by a servant or child, walking to
and from  church; and on the Sabbath, likewise, in long family
procession, in performance of a like duty; but, to take a promenade as such, for pleasure or display, or to pass from shop to shop
looking at fine goods by the hour, without finding the article
sought, or any thing to suit the fancy, would be regarded as an
indecorum, and an unmistakable mark of vulgar boldness. Native prejudice on this point, has doubtless been modified by the
example of numerous foreign residents and visitors; still, when
a lady is met in the streets in promenade, it may be safely inferred that she is not a Brazilian: if wearing a bonnet, it may be
deemed certain.
Aside from the light thrown upon the general estimate of
female virtue, by this prohibition, from usage, there are habits of
ihdecency among the people, witnessed even in the most public
thoroughfares, sufficient to justify it, so long as the nuisance is
permitted; moreover, a lady in walking is subjected to an impudent stare and look of libertinism  from  shopkeepers, and
clerks, and passers-by, which is in itself an insult, without the
addition of the remarks of levity which at times may be heard.
There has been an advance in civilization of late in this respect;
still, effrontery enough is left in connection with it to offend the
delicacy of a woman in walking, and to excite the indignation of
any male friend accompanying her.
The native female of the better classes is, therefore, still to be
regarded as a kind of house prisoner; she may stand against or
lean over the railing of an upper balcony by the hour-as is
much the custom-gazing in listless silence upon whatever is
taking place in the street; but a promenade below, with the chance
of a flirtation, is denied her.
How then, you will ask, is the shopping of the ladies for fine
dresses and fine feathers accomplished? I answer, either by husbands and fathers, who I am told are well versed by experience
in the business, or by a running to and from shop to drawing-room
of boys and porters with pattern-books and pieces. A lady from




SLAVES AT AUCTION.                  149
the country will drive to the house of some friend, or secure a
hired room, and, sending forth a servant, will put the errand-boys
of half the shops in the city, in motion for the day.
On one of these mornings, we entered. a common auction-room
for a moment, and accidentally stumbled on the humiliating and
reproachful sight of a sale of men and women by a fellow man.
Not the sale, as till within a few years past might here have been the
case, of newly imported captives from Africa, but of natives of
Rio, thus passing under the hammer from owner to owner like
any article of merchandise. They were eight or ten in number of
both sexes, varying in age from boyhood and girlhood to years of
maturity and middle life. They stood meekly and submissively,
though evidently anxious and sad, under the interrogations and
examinations of the bidders, and a rehearsal and laudation by the
auctioneer of their different available working qualities and dispositions: their health, strength and power of endurance.  All,
in their turn were made to mount an elevated platform, to display
their limbs almost to nakedness, and exhibit their muscular powers
by various gymnastics, like a horse his movements and action,
before the bidders at Tattersall's.
They were rapidly knocked down at prices varying from two
hundred to a thousand and more milreis: that is, from one to five
hundred and more dollars. As we turned away, the indignation
of one of our party found vent in the exclamation: " Such a
spectacle is a disgrace to human nature. It makes one sick at
heart, and ready to fear that in the retributive justice of the
Almighty the time may come, when the blacks here will put up
the whites for sale in the same manner! " And why not? Why
should the blood boil at the mere suggestion of the thought in
the one case, and yet flow coolly and tranquilly on, in view of the
other?
Happily Brazil has been aroused, through the influence of
her Emperor and the wisest of her statesmen and legislators, to
earnestness in that suppression of the traffic in slaves to which she
has so long stood pledged by treaty. It is no longer in name




150              RRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
only that the trade is a piracy. The landing of a cargo any
where in the Empire subjects it to forfeiture.  A high premium
is given to an informer in a case of smuggling of the kind, and.
the law cuts off all recovery of payment for the proceeds of a
sale that may have been effected. The consequence is, that the
millionnaires of Rio, whose coffers have been filled to repletion
with the price of blood, finding the government in earnest in the
execution of the laws, are forsaking their gilded palaces heresome of them among the most luxurious and ornate residences of
the city —for homes where they may pursue their nefarious business with less reproach to reputation, and less liability to the penalty of the laws. It is said that there are residents here, entitled
by birth and citizenship to stand beneath the protecting folds of
the stripes and stars of our country, who till now have been
active agents in, and have shared largely in the emoluments of
this wicked outrage on the rights of man.
iDecember 10th.-The 2d inst. was the Emperor's birth-day, a
chief gala among the anniversaries of Rio.  His Majesty then
completed his twenty-fifth year.  The day was fine, and the celebration consisted of a grand military procession of regular troops
and national guards through the palace square; a Te Deum in
the imperial chapel, at which the Emperor and Empress assisted,
as the phraseology is; a review of the troops by their Majesties
from a balcony of the palace; a levee for hand-kissing afterwards, for such as are entitled to the entree; and at night a visit
of the Court in state, to the opera. The whole accompanied by
the firing, morning, noon and night, afloat and on shore, of
unnumbered cannon.
I was in Captain McIntosh's party in going on shore. He
has a horror of crowds, which to me afford some of the best opportunities of judging of the character of a people, and after seeing
him comfortably seated in a balcony commanding the square,
Lieut. T — and I sallied forth "among the horses," as he expressed it, to be in closer proximity to the populace.
The Brazilians are manifestly an orderly, civil, good-natured,




BIRTHDAY OF PEDRO II.                 151
timid, and temperate people; contrasting favorably in their manners, language, indulgences and general deportment, on similar occasions, with the masses in large cities, in the United States. I saw
nothing rude or coarse in any one, nothing offensive or insulting:
no profanity, no intoxication, no quarelling, no call for the interference of the police.
In the course of the morning, among various other experiences,
we elbowed his Majesty and the ministers of the household, the
metropolitan and his chapter of the priesthood, and the great
officers of state in the Imperial chapel; scrutinized the Empress
and her ladies in their tribune; listened to the effective music of
the Te Deum, performed by the chief singers of the opera company; witnessed the return of the court in procession from the
chapel to the throne room; and gained a point of observation for
the review, so near Don Pedro and Dona Theresa as to have been
able readily to have carried on a conversation with them, had it
been according to rule.
The regular army of Brazil consists of some twenty thousand
troops. Very few of these are at present here. The great mass
of. those under arms on the present occasion, amounting to some
five thousand, was of municipal guards, corresponding to the
volunteer companies of New York. They were in neat and
handsome uniforms, are well appointed, and well drilled; but are
small and light in figure, without an appearance of much physical force, and most motley in complexion and the mixture of blood.
An abundant supply of fine bands was in attendance. Negroes
and mulattoes predominated in these, testifying to the gift of
musical taste in the race here, as with us in the United States.
There was a partial illumination in the evening, but to no
striking effect, except in the streets leading from the palace to the
opera-house. The progress of the court in state through these
was a showy spectacle.  The glaring flambeaux of liveried outriders, preceding and flanking the open carriages, themselves
brilliantly lighted, and the illuminated houses, exhibited the
diamonds of the Empress and her attendants to great advantage.




152               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
The left breast of the Emperor's coat, too, flashed with the
brilliants of the many orders with which it was decorated.  The
vivas of the multitudes were tolerably loyal, and the spirited
strains of the national air, caught, as the cortege approached,
from band to band, stationed at various points on the route, quite
spirit-stirring. The music of this air is a composition of Don
Pedro I., who was a master in the science.  It is one of the most
animated, spirit-moving national airs I know-equal almost in
this respect to the Marseillaise.  The words of the anthem to
which it is set are said to be also froml the pen of his late Majesty;
and, in the native language, are scarce less incitive than the tune,
to emotions of patriotism and valorIA podeis, filhos da patria,
Ver contente a mai gentil,
Ia raiou a liberdade,
No horizonte do Brazil.
Brava gente Braziliera
Longe vai temor servil!
Ou ficar a patria livre,
Onu mourer pelo Brazil.
I could not be otherwise than amused by an incident, characteristic of the too widely spread spirit of my countrymen,
which came under my observation just after reaching the shore.
The court were alighting at the palace, on their arrival in state
fiom San Christovao: the turn-out, in equipages and their appointments, the same as described at the prorogation of the legislature
in September.  The hurried rush across the square of the mounted
guard in advance; the flourish of trumpets and striking up of the
bands; the glitter of postillions and coachmen in livery, stiff with
lacings of silver; the tossings of the plumed heads of the long
lines of richly caparisoned horses; and the ceremonies of the
vestibule, in the salutations and kissing of hands at alighting,
were just occurring, as a rough specimen of our compatriots, in
the character of a Yankee sea-captain happened by.  IHe stood




THE EMPEROR AFLOAT.                  153
near me for a moment gazing at the pageant, evidently with less
of admiration than of contempt, and, as he passed on with a
significant " Humph I " I heard him add in half soliloquy-" I tell
you what, there is a little too much nonsense here; it is time
this people were annexed! "
To-day the weather has been wet and stormy. Notwithstanding, a Brazilian naval officer came on board the Congress
before breakfast, to say that the Emperor would be afloat in an
excursion on the bay. It is customary on such occasions for the
national vessels in the harbor to fire a royal salute.  That
they may be in readiness for this, on the appearance of the imperial standard, the official notice mentioned is given..The
Brazilian men-of-war man their yards also, and nine cheers are
given for their sovereign as he passes. At 11 o'clock the firing
was commenced by the Brazilian flag-ship; and, on going on deck
I found myself surrounded by a blaze from guns on every quarter.
At the same time, a procession of state barges was seen moving
from the naval arsenal near the convent of San Bento, to a steamer
not far from us. The barge of his Majesty, of white and green,
was magnificently gilded, and furnished with a standing canopy
of green and gold over the stern sheets, surmounted by the imperial crown. A naval officer in epaulets and chapeau acted as
coxswain, the boat being handsomely pulled by twenty-four finelooking oarsmen in a uniform of white.  The object of the excursion was a visit in the steamer to a foundry and steam-engine
manufactory at Praya Grande, on the opposite side of the bay;
where, in proof of the rapid advancement of the empire in
scientific works and national power, native talent and enterprise
is successfully competing with foreign skill, in the construction and
equipment of men-of-war and other steamers.




CHAPTER   XIII.
RIo DE JANEIRO.
December ISth.-On the morning of the 17th inst. I was called
to officiate at a marriage on shore. The ceremony took place at
the American Consulate, where a dejeuner a Za fourchette was
given to the party by Gov. and Mrs. Kent.  The groom, a native
Brazilian, a young physician, had attended a course of medical
and surgical lectures in New York.  He became there a member
of the Protestant Episcopal church; and was altogether so much
interested in our institutions, as to file, in the proper office, an
intention of becoming a naturalized citizen of the United States.
These circumstances led him to desire a marriage ceremonyin the
Protestant form, under the American flag, though, the bride being
a iRomanist, they had already been united by the rites of her
church.
While on shore on this occasion, I came near being a spectator, accidentally, of a more interesting scene of the kind.  In
passing the foundling hospital, which fronts an open, irregular
space not far from the ordinary landing, beneath Castle Hill, I
perceived the grated windows of the second and third stories to
be filled with females of different ages, from childhood to maturity,
in holiday dress, evidently awaiting the occupancy and departure
of a couple of private carriages, drawn up before the principal
entrance. Stepping into the open vestibule of the building —in




MARRIAGE AT THE ORPHAN ASYLUM.               155
one corner of which is the roda, or turning-box, for the deposit of
the infants clandestinely left-I rightly conjectured from the
white gloves, waistcoats, and breast-knots of two or three young
men present, that the occasion was one of marriage, and learned
that the ceremony had just taken place in the chapel of the
hospital. This, which opened from the vestibule, was, however,
now  empty. An aged female of dignified  appearance, in a
monastic dress of white, was walking back and forth in a small
corridor behind a grated door. She appeared to be waiting to
unlock this. Almost immediately the bride and groom, in the
significant garb of the newly wedded, were seen to approach from
the interior. They were both quite young.  An elderly lady,
evidently of distinction, attired in purple velvet with a display
of rich laces, jewelry and ostrich plumes, accompanied them, and
was herself followed by a dignified and well-dressed gentleman,
who appeared to be her husband. A crowd of the inmates of
the institution quickly filled the entire corridor behind.  The
bride was in tears, as she hurriedly gave a farewell embrace to
one and another of the youthful companions crowding around her,
and, on coming to the aged female at the door, dropped on her
knees, and covered her hands with kisses and tears. The groonm
hurried her from this scene to the first carriage, and drove off
rapidly, followed by the second containing the fine folks, probably
the god-mother and godlfather, or the patron and patroness of the
bride.  The whole explained to me a usage, in connection with this
establishment, of which I had heard. A recolhiemento, or female
orphan asylum is an appendage of the foundling hospital, many
of its eteves being selected from the inmates of the latter.  In
addition to the nurture and education of the orphans, care is
taken to provide for their settlement in life, with the bestowment
of a marriage portion, varying from one to two hundred dollars.
That an opportunity may be afforded for young men of respectable
character to make choice of a wife from the inmates, the establishment is open to visitors one day in every year-that of the anniversary of St. Elizabeth, the patroness of the asylum.  Before a




156              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA,
union is sanctioned, however, satisfactory testimonials of good
character in the applicant for marriage must be furnished, and
guaranties of ability to support a wife be given.  Such was the
origin of the marriage which had just taken place.  The dress
and lady-like bearing of the bride, the respectable appearance and
manners of the groom, the rich attire, equipages, and evident
position in life of those under whose patronage they appeared, all
indicated, in this case, something in her lot above the destiny
of common orphanage.
While the establishment of a home for the friendless young
is one of the most self-commending of charities, the philanthropy
which provides an asylum for the secret reception of foundlings
is no longer questionable, in the judgment of the wisely benevolent and truly good. It is but to foster vice, and to encourage
the unnatural and depraved in the abandonment of their offspring.
This is well known here, and readily admitted to be the effect.
The number yearly left in the roda, or turning-box, of this
hospital, amounts, I aml told, by those best informed, to five and
six hundred-white, black and mongrel of every degree.  More
than half of these soon perish from  diseases seated upon them
before being abandoned; from  the impossibility of securing
natural nourishment for the feeble; and from the various ills to
which early infancy under the most favored auspices is subject.
December 20th.-O0ne source of agreeable excitement with
us, is the daily anticipation and frequent arrival of sailing vessels
and steamers, governmental and mercantile, from  the United
States and various parts of the world. The number of vessels
entering the port of Rio annually, besides those engaged in the
coasting trade, which are very numerous, averages about eight
hundred: importing cargoes to the amount of some two hundred
thousand tons. Of course, scarcely a day. passes without the
entry of two or three foreign vessels in the regular trade,
besides such as merely touch for repairs or refreshment.
It is a remarkable fact-especially in view of the achievements
in navigation, of the Portuguese of old, and the boldness and




FOR:IGN COMMERCE.                     157
enterprise with which for centuries they sustained their part in
the commerce of the world- that their descendants here should
have yielded that of the empire, which is foreign, entirely to the
vessels of other nations. It is extremely rare for a Brazilian ship
to cross the Atlantic, or double Cape HIorn, or the Cape of Good
I-lope; and I learn, from Gov. Kent, that not a single vessel of the
country has cleared for the United States, since he has been consul
here.  Their trading vessels, though small, are generally well
built, strong, and well modelled; and are navigated with care and
safety along the extended coasts of the continent, from the Plata
to the Amazon.  But, as the consul remarks, "the native navigators seem afraid to compete on the high seas, with the vessels of
this age of hurry and locomotion-with the reckless driving of
the' Flying Clouds' and'White Squalls,' the' Sea Witches,'
and other wild birds of the ocean, and yield, without a struggle,
the enterprises in foreign commerce to the hardy northmen-the
unwearied and ever-present Yankee, and the pushing and exacting
Englishman."  The truth is, as he adds, the Brazilian is not by
nature a trader or experimenter.  He thinks it sufficient for him
to raise coffee and get it to a market': he lacks the energy, the industry-the earnest, long-continued, unwearied effort which leads one
willingly to sacrifice present ease, comfort, and quiet, to the prospect of future gain, and which makes the successful merchant. " Go
ahead," "strive, " struggle," " compete" —are words not belonging to his vocabulary. He shrugs his shoulders at the very mention
of them —not in contempt, but in despair; and prefers sitting in
his easy chair, or lolling out of the window, to the tussle of life
common with us, of which the very thought would throw  him
into a perspiration. " Let the negroes work," is his motto; " and
let what they cannot do remain undone."  The Yankee character,
as exhibited here within the year or two past, in the rush by of
the thousands of emigrants on their way to California, struck the
people with astonishment.  They weire looked upon as most reckless and dcaring adventurers, who, born in snow-drifts and cradled
in ice, had a hardihood and enterprise it was in vain to attempt




158               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
to rival.  But I am  forgetting the subject with which I coml
menced.
The telegra.phic station on Castle Hill, to and from which the
appearance of all sail in the offing is reported, is in full view from
our moorings  The quarter-masters of the Congress are furnished
with explanations of the various flags used, and the combinations
by which the nation, character, and position of the sail in sight
are made known. Few moments of the day pass without a turn
of the glass in that direction. The distinguishing flag for an
American vessel is a long, pointed pennant of white and deep
blue in closely-arranged perpendicular stripes, giving to it the
appearance, as it flutters in the wind, of being ring-streaked. With
a Yankee fondness for sobriquets having a political or national
import, Jack has dubbed this pennant "' the coon's tail," from  a
fancied resemblance to the well-known emblem of the party of
which the great statesman of Kentucky was so long an illustrious
leader; and,'the coon's tail is up I " or " there goes the coon's
tail! " is the regular announcement of an American ship in the
offing.
Among uncounted merchant vessels which have thus been
reported since our return from  the Plata, there have also been
the frigate Raritan, storeship Relief, and sloops-of-war Saratoga
and St. Mary of the navy.  The St. Mary was especially welcome from the number of officers attached to her, closely associated in friendship with several on board the Congress.  Captain
Magruder, her commander, is of this number; and is justly held
in high estimation. The intercourse on his part with our ship
has been most intimate.  After an interchange of civilities by
various parties on board both vessels, Captain McIntosh and I
took dinner informally with him to-day, with the purpose of a
drive afterwards to the 1Botanic Gardens. These lie six or eight
miles south-west from the city, on the sea-shore, beneath the range
of mountains, of which the' Corcovado and the Gavia are such
conspicuous points. For three miles the way is the same described
in a visit to Botafogo.  The remainder does not differ materially




BOTANICAL GARDEN.                   159
from it, except that the suburbs of the place change gradually,
by the greater distances intervening between the villas and
country houses which adorn the sides of the road, into a thinlyoccupied and open country.  At the distance of five miles, the
interval between the mountains and the sea is taken up chiefly by
a lake or lagoon called Rodrigo de Freitas.  A short drive hence
over a sandy plain brought us to the gates of the garden.  This
was originally a pleasure-ground of the royal family in the time
of John VI., and was appropriated by him to its present use,
on the accidental arrival in 1809 of various cases of exotics from
the Isle of France, in a vessel which brought to Rio a company
of Portuguese prisoners. The collection was afterwards augmented,
at the order of the king, by additions from Cayenne, then under
his rule; and eventually by the importation of the tea-plant from
China, with a company of Chinese laborers skilled in its cultivation and in the preparation of the leaf for use. The attempt proved
a failure; not so much from a want of adaptation in the soil and
climate, or from the quality of the tea produced, as from the
expense above the cost of the imported article.  Both here, and
at Santa Cruz-an imperial estate fifty miles west of Rio, where
also a plantation was formed-the culture has been abandoned; a
few plats of stunted, Inildewed, and neglected bushes only are
left as a botanical curiosity.
The gardens cover some fifty acres of ground —an alluvial
fiat of rich soil, and constitute a nursery from which plants of the
cinnamon, nutmeg, clove, camphor, allspice, and tea, originally introduced here, have been widely dispersed through the empire.
Specimens of all these were examined by us.
The cinnamon and camphor trees are of the laurel family —
the laurus cinnamonum  and laurus campnphora;-the nutmeg,
clove, and allspice, of the myrtle. The cinnamon grows to a
height of fifteen or twenty feet.  The stem  and branches are
of a light green; the leaves, of the shape of the laurel, are also
light green, and are pliant and tender. When they first bud forth]
they are of a light red, and gradually become green as they




160              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
advance in growth.  The blossoms are white.  There is no perceptible fragrance, either in the stem or leaf, till bruised or broken,
but both when bitten have the cinnamon flavor.  The clove is the
flower-bud of the caryophylius aromaticus.  The tree was in
blossom and the bud very strong in its peculiar taste. Specimens
of all these in branch, blossom, and fruit, were readily furnished
by a negro in attendance, who expected a trifling gratuity in
return.
Long avenues of the Sumatra nut-vernicia nontana —furnish abundant shade, and yield great quantities of nuts. The
mulberry tree is also introduced for the purpose of shade.  The
bread-fruit-artocarpus incisa-so familiar to me in the South
Seas, was also conspicuous in the beauty of its strongly-marked,
shining, and digitated foliage, and its ponderous fruit of light
green.
The whole garden, though a national property, for the good
keeping of which an annual appropriation is made by the imperial
legislature, appeared in a neglected state.  There is nothing
strikingly tasteful or artistic in the arrangement or embellishment of the ground.  At the western end, a mountain stream
comes brawling down a rocky channel, and on reaching the
level, meanders lazily eastward, between banks beautifully fringed
with bamboo, and overhung by the dense foliage of loftier growth.
Where this mountain stream  enters, there is an attempt, on
a small scale, at landscape gardening. A little basin of water
with projecting points, and an islet or two, overhung by willows,
represents a miniature lake; and near by, on an artificial and
terraced mound, is a chapel-like summer house, formed of the
flat cedar or arbor vitae, so planted and so trained as to be perfectly architectural in its outline, and to appear to be an old ruin
overrun with living green. That, however, which more than any
other ornamental feature of the place attracted our notice, was an
avenue of royal palms, a quarter of a mile and more in length,
leading in a straight line from the principal gate, and crossed at
right angles, midway of the distance, by another corresponding




STORM  FROM  THE CORCOVADO.                161
with it. The trees are at perfectly regular distances from each
other; are all of one size, and, either by nature or by artificial
training, rise from uniformly shaped swelling bases, into perpendicular shafts, forty or fifty feet in height. The silver-gray
trunks, marked in their whole length by rings, showing the
growth of each year, terminate in plumed capitals of true Corinthian magnificence. The effect of the perspective is very beautiful: strikingly like that which we would imagine a colonnade of
equal length in Egyptian or Asiatic architecture to be.
As a botanical garden, the place is unworthy the name, and
useless as such to the cause of science.  The realization of one
here, such as John VI. projected, would be exceedingly interesting and important. There is no empire in the world in which a
botanical garden on a magnificent scale could be more readily
established, or whose native vegetable kingdom is so rich, and so
full of novelties to the scientific world.
When we left the city the weather was magnificent; the
atmosphere clear and pure, elastic and bracing, and the lights
and shades on the scenery in perfection.  But ere we were aware
of it, an entire change occurred.  The Corcovado towers in gigantic altitude over the garden, and, ahlmost without warning,
a violent storm came rushing down its precipices, bearing with it
masses of cloud of impenetrable blackness, surcharged with torrents of rain, which were poured upon us with unabating fury
during the entire drive back to the city.  Notwithstanding the
individual discomfort incident to such showers, they are welcomed with joy by the people in general, as indications of continued health. Previous to the epidemic of the last year, they were
almost as regular in their return as the afternoon itself. But
during the pestilence they intermitted almost entirely. The regularity of the sea breeze also was greatly interrupted; and lightning and thunder for the most part ceased. Believing that these
meteorological changes were connected in some way with the infection existing in the atmosphere, a return of the showers of old
is regarded as an indication of the accustomed salubrity of the air.




162               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
December 27th. —The little chapel of Santa Lucia fronts the
bay at the southern end of the promenade beneath Castle Hill.
This saint is a kind of deputy-patroness of seafaring men, under
Our Lady of Good Voyages, whose shrine crowns so conspicuously
the little islet of Bonviagem. In my usual walk two or three evenings ago, I accidentally fell upon an anniversary fete here; the
birthday of her saintship.  The chapel is the parish church of the
neighborhood, and I could scarcely have believed, without the ocular proof, th'at within hearing of the hum of the busy metropolis
a gathering of people so entirely rustic and village-like, could
have been brought together.  Great preparation for the celebration had been made. Long avenues of young palm-trees, twenty
or thirty feet in height, and from which brilliant lamps were suspended, were planted beside the road along the water; alternating
with these, were lofty flag-staffs, from which varied colored banners and streamers floated in the breeze. Frameworks with complicated pyrotechnic preparations were placed thickly around, as
in the parks and squares of New York on the Fourth of July.
Indeed, the whole aspect of things-the crowds of people in holiday dress, the many venders of refreshments in fruit and confectionery, cakes, orangeade and orgeat, the talk and the laugh, and
the general hilarity-was that of a general muster, or other similar holiday, in the United States.  The little chapel was in a
flutter of flags and gay hangings without, and within, gaudy in
the profusion of gilt paper and tinsel, and coarse artificial flowers.
It was, too, one blaze of light from a pyramid of wax candles on
the high altar.
An animated sale of engravings of Santa Lucia was going
on. These were in different degrees of artistic execution, and on
various qualities of paper to suit the taste and finances of the
purchasers.  MIen, women, and children, black and white, master
and mistress, freeman and slave, crowded with equal earnestness
around the priest, seated behind a counter for the sale, all seeming alike delighted to secure the consecrated likeness, as, deposit



CHURCHES ON CHRISTMAS EVE.                 163
ing their money, one after another were servit.fwith it, and then
struggled back through the throng.
A service of music took place at eight o'clock; and as this
hour approached, the little church became crowded to suffocation.
The females were admitted to a portion of the nave, nearest the
chancel, separated from the rest of the area by a rail.  They sat
in full dress on the carpeted pavement, as closely crowded as possible, while the men outside of this separating line stood as
thickly packed. The music, both instrumental and vocal, was
that of a regular opera, and delightfully performed. The festivities continued till midnight: and, as we returned by boat to the
ship at a later hour than usual, rockets in constant succession
were seen rushing to the sky, and bursting in glittering coruscations of colored lights; balls of fire were flying through the air;
Chinese crackers every where exploding; and fiery serpents hissing along the ground.  But there was no intoxication, no quarrelling, no rudeness; in their stead, general civility, decorum,
and light-heartedness.
On Christmas eve, I visited the cathedral on the Palace
Square, and the church of San Francisco de Paulo in the square
of the IRoscio. The former was first open. It was of course
richly ornamented with tapestries of brocade and velvet, and
hangings of cloth of silver and gold, and was brilliantly illuminated with wax lights, amid a profusion of artificial flowers.  The
chancel was filled with the dignitaries of the church, in striking
costumes of scarlet and purple silk, with any quantity of the richest lace in the form of capes and togas.  The Bishop, wearing a
mitre studded with jewels of immense size, and holding a massive
gilded crosier, was seated on his throne on one side of the high
altar: presenting, with the encircling groups of Dean and Chapter and officiating priests, a scene of hierarchical stateliness and
splendor, befitting the palmiest days of papal supremacy.  The
music here is always of the first order: it was on this occasion,
as usual, altogether operatic in style and execution.
The church of St. Francis is much more spacious than this




164               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
of the Carmelites& — The interior is unbroken by galleries or colonnade,.v i;d bie coup-d'ceil, on entering, was now brilliant and
effective.  A ball-room for a civic fhte could not have been decorated with more taste and richness, or with greater regard to
effect on the eye.  Lines of closely-arranged lights marked the
general architecture of the whole interior; while, midway between the pavement and loftily-arched ceilings, beautiful clusters in brackets, gave a dazzling brilliancy to the walls. The
display upon and above the high altar was magnificent.  The
music was fine; and the throng greater than at the cathedral,
more mixed in its character, and full of levity.  A third of the
nave was appropriated exclusively to females.  The various personal attractions and deportment of these, seated closely together
in full evening dress, seemed chiefly to occupy the attention of
the men; while innuendo, badinage, and loose remarks upon them
were freely passed in whispers by one and another.  The place
seemed little like one of devotion, and any other than a house of
God.
January 8th.-WVe are once more at sea.  The weather for
the last few days, though magnificent in clearness and brilliancy,
has been too excessively hot for us to remain longer with comfort
at Rio. A rumor, too, of the reappearance of the epidemic of the
last year, was becoming prevalent, and the region of the Plata
was deemed in every respect most desirable for the ship. At
this season of the year, light winds and calms are characteristic
of the weather at sea, in the latitudes between Rio de Janeiro and
the Rio La Plata: it is probable, therefore, that our passage of
ten days or a fortnight thither, will be destitute of any thing
worthy of record.
The cordiality which I mentioned as existing between the officers of the Congress and those of the British flag-ship, Southampton, continued to the last. A banquet, surpassing in its appointments any thing upon so large a scale that I recollect to have witnessed on board ship, was given some time since by the officers
of her gun-room  to those of the Congress —embracing as guests,




TWELFTH-NIGHT PARTY.                  165
the commanders-in-chief and captains of both vessels; and night
before last, Admiral and Mrs. Reynolds gave a farewell dinner to
Commodore McKeever, Captain McIntosh, and one or two others
from our ship. It was Twelfth-night, the last of the Christmas
holidays; but it was in vain that I attempted to bring into exercise
any associations of the season, in connection with my thoughts of
home. While suffering here more than midsummer heat, it is
difficult to reconcile even the imagination to a picture of festivities on the same occasion, with the accompaniments of howling
winds and drifting snows-a frozen river in front of you, and a
leafless grove behind.
This farewell entertainment was even more genial in its sympathies than any of those previously enjoyed. The company
embraced a number of intelligent and spiritually-minded Christians.  A seat between two of these fell to me, and I was most
agreeably and profitably entertained.  It is ever a delight to me
to find intelligent piety openly professed and consistently maintained by a young officer, especially where an elevated position
in social life, as well as the military profession, exposes the individual to peculiar temptations from the world. Such is the case
with young W —, and such that of his chosen companions.  He
lent me, a few days since, a memoir of a young friend, an officer in the army, printed like that of your early companion, MC —-, for private circulation only. Like hers, it is a portraiture
from life of gifted and devoted youthful piety.  Lieut. St. J —
the subject of it, went to India on duty, in the war of Afghanistan.
The cholera broke out in his regiment when on march there.
Fearless of consequences, and trustful in faith and Christian hope,
he gave himself up at once to unremitted, personal attendance
upon the sick and dying soldiers.  Though but a youth of twentytwo, the parting breath of many of these was spent in blessings
upon him, as a minister of consolation and spiritual grace to
them, till seized at last himself, he was carried off at the end of
six hours, with the triumphant exclamation on his lips, " All's
well! "




CHAPTE R XIV.
MONTEVIDEO.
January 30th, 1851.-Our passage "down," as the phrase is,
was devoid of incident. We arrived on the night of the 20th
inst., and are at anchor in the outer roadstead.  In October, I
described the general aspect of the mount, the city, and the surrounding country from this; and reminded you of the existence
of a civil war, and the close siege of the city, for eight years
past, by Oribe, a citizen of Montevideo, and formerly President of
the Republic of which it is the capital. The right to this office,
though once resigned and abandoned by him, he still claims; and
to enforce it, invaded the State with an army of Argentines, furnished by Rosas, Governor of Buenos Ayres, and minister of
foreign affairs for the Argentine States. With this he would
have gained possession of the town long ago, had it not been for
the armed intervention, in 1845, of England and France; and the
continued guardianship of the place by the latter, with a scquadron, in the roadstead, and a body of fifteen hundred or two
thousand troops on shore.
The principal European powers, rejecting the pretensions of
Oribe, acknowledge the constituted authorities of the inside, or
city party only, as the government of the Republic. The policy
of the United  States being a strict neutrality, Commodore
McKeever pays a like respect to both; and, under an escort fur



CONDITION OF MONTEVIDEO.                167
nished by Oribe, has paid an official visit to him at his camp
outside of the lines, as well as one to the President within, at the
government house in the city.
WThen here in October, an armistice had existed for some
time, in connection with the negotiations then pending between
the belligerent parties and Admiral Le Predour. commander-inchief of the French force. We had not heard of its termination:
but a movement of the troops on shore at daylight, the morning
after our arrival, attracted the notice of those on board on watch,
and led to the supposition that an engagement was about to take
place. A messenger from my ever mindful friend R1-, the
officer of the deck at the time, summoned me to witness it; and
for an hour, with other officers of the ship, I gazed through a glass
upon what seemed a spirited conflict, between the outside and
inside forces. WVe learned afterwards, however, that it was only
a sham battle between different parties of the French troops,
and the 3Iontevidean soldiery, composed of a foreign legion of
Basques and Italians, and a native regiment of negroes.  So far
as the effect upon the eye, and, under our misapprehension, upon
the heart was concerned, there was, in the manceuvres of the
battle field-the rapid charge, the roar of cannon, the sharp
rattle of musketry, and the flying through the air and the bursting of shells-much of the reality of an actual engagement.
Poor Montevideo, for nearly a half century past, has been
singularly ill-fated, even for a South American city.  The greater
part of that period, it has been the victim of calamitous wars,
either foreign or civil. In 1807, while yet a colonial dependency
of Spain, it was besieged, bombarded, and carried by storm  by
the English, under Sir Samuel Achmuty.  After the inglorious
defeat of Gen. Whithead at Buenos Ayres in 1808, and the
consequent expulsion of- the British from the Plata, as a colonial
city faithful to the crown of Spain it was besieged from 1810
to 1814, and eventually made to capitulate to the troops of the
then revolted and republican province of Buen6s Ayres.  Shortly
afterwards, the republican forces being withdrawn, it fell into the




168               BRAZIL AND -LA PLATA.
hands of the bandit Artigas, a native chieftain, so lawless and
marauding in his rule at home, and in his depredations on the
adjoining frontiers of Brazil, as to give just cause for invasion by
the Portuguese of that kingdom, who gained possession of the
city in 1817.
This occupation of the place led to a warfare of more than
ten years, between the royalists of Brazil, and the republicans of
Buenos Ayres, the chief disasters of which centred in Montevideo; till, in 1829, through the intervention of England, a peace
was effected, by the withdrawal, by both parties, of all claim to
the territory in dispute-known then by the name of the Banda
Oriental-on condition that it should constitute an independent
Republic, to be called Uruguay, after the great river which forms
the western boundary between it and the Argentine States.
From  that period till the year 1842, the territory enjoyed
peace.  Under a constitutional government, with a president,
ministry, judiciary, and legislature of two houses, both city and
country had  great prosperity.  The population of the  city
increased rapidly from fifteen to fifty thousand, and that of the
state to two hundred and fifty thousand. The exports in a few
years amounted to six millions of dollars, and the imports to five
millions.  Fortunes were readily accumulated; fine buildings in
great numbers were erected within the city; and beautiful
country houses, with tasteful and luxurious surroundings, spread
over the environs without.  Poverty and want were unknown, and
the evil days seemed entirely past.  But the civil war, into which
the republic was plunged by Oribe, soon produced a sad change.
The invading Argentines speedily devastated the entire country,
and by the wanton destruction of vast herds of horses and
cattle-the chief sources of its wealth and commerce in hides,
jerked beef, and tallow —and the plunder of their estancias or
farms, paralyzed the enterprise of the inhabitants, and forced
them to emigrate; while the close siege of the town, intercepting
all supplies for support and all means of commerce, at once
sapped the sources of its prosperity, and drove the citizens by tens




FIRST IMPRESSIONS.                 169
of thousands elsewhere for maintenance and life.  The result
upon the wealth and population of the port may be readily
imagined. I do not recollect ever before to have been so deeply
impressed with the desolateness of any place as on first landing
here, and on taking a stroll through its streets, and the limited
suburbs within the lines of defence. The mole, once alive with
busy commerce, was as deserted and silent as a churchyard; and
excepting at Pompeii, I never wandered through streets which
seemed to be more truly those of a city of the dead.
This impression, however, I afterwards discovered to be in
some degree deceptive, owing, partly, to the hour of the day;
that for the universal siesta. Scarcely an individual was to be
seen anywhere. With screened windows and closed doors, the
inhabitants, young and old, rich and poor, were yielding themselves to the insinuating influences of the dolce far niente, or to
the more oblivious indulgences of sound sleep. It is now midsummer here; the day was hot, for this latitude, and every thing
in a state of Spanish repose customary in such weather, after an
early dinner.  The dilapidation and decay on every side, the
manifest poverty, and the seemingly utter desertion of dwelling
after dwelling, through whole streets, were so saddening and
oppressive, that, for the time, I felt that I would never wish to
visit the shore again. As to the suburbs without the walls, excavated Pompeii itself is scarcely more a region of ruin and
desolation.
An hour at the American consulate afterwards-where our
party received the most frank and hospitable welcome from Mr.
and Mrs. Hamilton and family; an application there within
fifteen minutes, for my official services from a stranger in the
marriage ceremony —showing that bad as the state of things in
Montevideo is, the voice of the bride and of the bridegroom is
still to be heard in her streets-with other assurances of a better
state in general than I had been led to infer, changed in some
degree the current of my sympathies. Still, however deceptive
the first impressions on landing may have been, there is too much
8




170              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
reality in the wretchedness to- which hundreds and thousands of
the inhabitants are reduced, to allow them  to be at once dispelled.
The city is finely situated upon a peninsula of granite, which,
in its form, has been compared, not inaptly, to the shape of a
tortoise's back: an area a half mile square descending gradually
on three sides, from a central height of a hundred feet or more,
to the level of the surrounding water. This, though only a river, is
seemingly a sea; for, a hundred miles in width, it presents a horizon on the south as boundless as the ocean.  Like most towns of
Spanish origin, the streets are rectangular, with an open square or
plaza in the centre, on which stand the principal church and the
cabilda, or town hall and prison.  It is well built. Many of the
private residences are spacious, and the principal public buildings,
the cathedral, and an unfinished hospital, are rather imposing in
their architecture.  From  long disuse the streets are in many
places tufted with grass, and in others, the pavements are so torn
up and broken as to be impassable with wheels.
One redeeming fact, in regard to the general want of interest
in the place, has very unexpectedly presented itself to me personally, in an invitation from the standing committee of the
British Episcopal Church, to officiate for them in public worship
on the Sabbath. This I have already done, and shall continue
to do whenever the Congress shall be in the Plata. The English
government, with commendable interest for the spiritual good of
its subjects abroad, makes a liberal provision, under certain conditions, for the maintenance of the ministry and its ordinances
where they may be. Its chief embassies in foreign lands are
furnished with regular chaplains; and, wherever British subjects
abroad contribute to a fund for the ministrations of the Gospel
among them, the same amount, to a specified limit-four hundred
pounds is the maximum, I believe —is allowed by act of parliament
for the same object.
Eight or ten years ago, Samuel Lafone, Esq., a principal
English merchant here, and a chief capitalist and landed propri



BRITISH CHURCH.                     171
etor in the Uruguay, secured from the authorities the prfiilege
of erecting a chapel for Protestant worship.  The site  of an
elevated circular bastion, overlooking the rocky shorec  of the
river, on the south side of the town, was chosen for the Plurpose,
and purchased by him. Upon this, at a cost of forty-fivy or fifty
thousand dollars, he erected a fine edifice in Grecian arc.. itecture.
It is of brick, stuccoed, and painted in imitation o-F/Portland
stone, and is ornamented in the front by a well proportioned pediment, supported by four lofty Doric columns, and altogether is
one of the nmost conspicuous architectural ornaments of the city.
The interior is spacious and lofty, the wood-workl-the pews,
chancel-railing, the reading desk, pulpit, and organ-l(,ft-being of
solid mahogany, and is capable of accommodating aa audience of
several hundreds.  When completed, Mr. Lafone irade an unconditional gift of it to the British community resident here. These
joined by the few Americans engaged in commerces, raised a fund
sufficient, with the governmental gratuity, for;he comfortable
support of a rector. The Rev. Mr. Armstrung officiated for
several years in that capacity, and till ill healt[b obliged him and
his family, not long since, to seek a different climate. The Rev.
Mr. Lenhart of the Methodist Church, my predecessor as chaplain of the American squadron on this station, was invited by the
standing committee to occupy the pulpit thus left vacant: and
now, with equal ecclesiastic liberality, on the, part of the committee and church, I am invested with a like temporary rectorship.
It is customary to have but one service oil the Sabbath. This
takes place at one o'clock, the earliest hour practicable for me to
be on shore, after the discharge of my off ial duties on board
the Congress.
The interruptions to commerce, and the disasters attending
the long siege, have reduced the Protestant residents of Montevideo comparatively to a mere handful, and the usual audience
composed of English, Scotch and American worshippers, male and
female, numbers only from  sixty to eighty persons.  Still it is a




172'              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
privile e to minister in holy things, even to so small an assemblage, 4ith'none to hurt or make afraid' amidst a people once
wholly {~iven to superstition and bigotry, and to witness a depth
of inter est and solemnity of devotion characteristic of spiritual
Christia ity. I have already been called to officiate at two
marriag& m and have twice administered the ordinance of baptism.
Thus, tho gh a Presbyterian of the' straightest sect,' I feel it not
only a privilege and happiness, but a duty, under the circumstances, to follow the prescribed ritual of the English prayer-book
in worship, and-in surplice and bands-to pray statedly, not only
" for all in authority," but specifically, for " the most gracious
Lady the Queen Victoria, His Royal Highness Prince Albert,
Albert, Prince of Wales, and all the royal family."




CHAPTER XV.
BBUENos AYRES.
February 2st. —I am unexpectedly in Buenos Ayres, having
accompanied Commodore McKeever in an official visit to General
Rosas, the sagacious but unscrupulous despot of the Argentine
Confederation.
The distance from Montevideo is about a hundred miles due
west. The intervening navigation is rendered intricate by sand
banks and shoals, and the general shallowness of the river; and,
for the last forty miles, isj impracticable for a frigate. In making
the trip, therefore, the broad pennant of the Congress was transferred to the sloop-of-war St. Louis, on board which the commodore and his party became, for the passage, the guests of her commander, Captain Cock. The U. S. Brig Bainbridge, Lieut. ManRing, accompanied the flag.
We left Montevideo on the evening of the 18th inst.  The run
is usually made in a night, but the wind being light, the current
strong, and the St. Louis not in sailing trim, we did not reach the
outer roadstead here till the morning of the 20th. The passage
was pleasant. Though it is midsummer, the temperature is cool
and bracing, with clear skies and a brilliant atmosphere, remarkable for the magnificence of its coloring along the horizon, at
sunrise and sunset. There is, too, a full moon at present; and
though the river from mid-channel is often seemingly shoreless,




174               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
and its waters of the veritable mud-puddle hue, the scene from
the deck of the St. Louis, both by night and by day, was not
without attractions: especially in the companionship of the Bainbridge.  This is a beautiful little craft; and was as buoyant and
graceful on the waters as a bird in the air, as with greatly
reduced sail, to avoid passing us by her superior speed, she at
times fell far behind, and then again, with newly spread wings,
rushed forward closely in our wake. Various other sail were in
sight, at greater or less distances, some ascending and some descending the river, with no little display of nautical evolution,
in making the best of their way.
Early yesterday morning, Buenos Ayres was in sight, at a
distance of ten or twelve miles; gleaming showily in the sun,
from the whiteness of the general architecture, and the number
of its lofty and finely proportioned domes and church towers. It
is situated on a bluff, which extends along the river a couple
of miles, and rises at the highest point eighty or a hundred feet
above its level. At the distance, however, from which we first saw
the city, this formation of the shore was scarcely perceptible: it
seemed to be resting, like Venice, upon the water, while a tufting
of tree-tops, in long stretches on either.. side, showed the general
flatness of the surrounding country. The river is here twentyfive miles wide, and its northern shores, equally low as the southern, are not ordinarily visible. But for the smoothness of the
water, and its muddy hue, we might have thought ourselves still
upon the open sea.
A first surprise is the very great distance from the city-five,
six, and nine miles-at which vessels of moderate tonnage even,
are obliged, in the midst of such an expanse of waters, to come
to anchor. A long shoal stretches out thus far in front of the
city, preventing nearer approach, except by vessels of light draught.
When the water is high, such can cross the shoal, and, at other
times, find a channel by a circuitous route to an inner roadstead,
where there is anchorage for vessels of different draught, respectively, one, two, and three miles from the landing. In the outer road



LANDING AT BUENOS AYRES.                  175
stead, for a distance of miles, tall masts rose above the waters
like steeples on a populous plain, while quite a fleet of small
vessels was lying three miles within.  The St. Louis came
to, six miles or more from the city; and, after an exchange of
salutes with the flag of Buenos Ayres, and those of France and
Sardinia, borne by ships-of-war of these respective nations near
us, we left her in a procession of small boats.
The formation of the shore in front of the city, and for a
considerable distance above and below it, is a flat tufa rock whic4
extends irregularly, far out upon the sands. Its surface is fretted
and broken, and, when the water is low, boats cannot approach
the landing nearer than from a quarter to a half mile.  At such
times the intermediate distance is made in strongly-constructed,
high-wheeled carts, drawn by two horses, one of which is mounted
by a wild-looking postilion. These carts, like hacks at home, are
in attendance in great numbers, for the transportation of passengers and freight from the boats to the shore; and often present a
scene of strife and rivalry in the water, between the drivers,
similar to those witnessed in the rush of carriages, the brandishing of whips, and the exercise of lungs at a pier in New York,
on the arrival of a steamer. It seemed now to be high water,
and we were apprehensive that we should miss this novel mode
of debarkation, and thus lose, for the time, a spectacle characteristic of the place. Our fears were unfounded, however; for
soon, a cocked hat of portentous dimensions, with other insignia
of official and military dignity in the wearer-himself of no
ordinary dimensions in height or rotundity-was seen rising
above the water. It was that of Don Pedro Ximenes, the captain
of the port, who had been deputized by his imperious master to
receive the commodore; and was patiently waiting in a cart, far
out in the stream, the approach of the barge.  Mr. Graham of
Ohio, the American Consul, was also in attendance.  The floor
of the clumsy, high-sided vehicle, was scarcely above the surface
of the water, as we rowed' handsomely' alongside its open back,
and stepping aboard, were transferred from the protecting shadow




176              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
of the broad pennant, to that of Don Pedro's cocked hat. In
this novel reception-room, the ceremonies of an official introduction took place; and we were soon plunging and tumbling through
the splashing waters-a wheel on either side rolling, first up and
then down, over the rough tufa bottom-with an artistic lashing
of whip and vociferation by the postilion, till, backed up, according to custom, in coal-cart style, we were dumped on an inclined.
plane descending ten or twelve feet from the Alemeda, or public
walk in front of the city, to the water.
A large crowd had gathered to witness the arrival —foreign
merchants and native citizens, soldiers, sailors, porters, peons and
boatmen. In the number, were many in the demi-savage dress
of gauchos —the peasants of the country. This is- picturesque
and showy; and, with many other things which met the sight,
gave promise of a more novel field for observation than we had
yet lighted on. A glaring red coach, something of the dimension
and style of those employed by hotels in New York, in conveying
guests to and from the steamboats and railroad stations, was in
waiting, by order of the government, and quickly conveyed the
commodore to the Hotel de Provence, in an adjoining street.
Roohs had been secured for us there, and a hospitable welcome
was extended to the party, including Captain Cock, to the messtable of a private club, consisting of Mr. Harris of Virginia,
American charge d'affaires to the Argentine Confederation; Mr.
Graham, American Consul, Count Frolich, Swedish Consul-general; and two or three American gentlemen, connected here
with the principal mercantile houses engaged in the South American trade.
Every thing in the general aspect of the city is Spanish:
with the addition to the universal whitewash on all that is stone
of an equally universal display of red on all that is wood or iron.
This color of blood has been for twenty years the prescribed
signs of adhesion to the remarkable man who maintains here an
undisputed reign of terror: hence the red waistcoats, red hatbands, red breast-knots, universally seen —the red doors, red




EVENING DRIVE.                    177
window-frames, red bases to the houses, red lamp-posts, red carts,
red railings, and red fixtures on every thing.
The place is subject, at all seasons of the year, to occasional
high winds of two or three days' continuance.  Then the tumultuous seas which roll over the shallow bed of the river cut off all
communication between the shipping and the shore; and the city
and its suburbs are filled with driving dust. Weather of this
character set in yesterday, shortly after we landed, and has kept
us housed much of the time since, principally at the reading
rooms of a club, where we were introduced, and where we found
files of the American and European papers, and the latest
magazines.
This evening, notwithstanding the wind, Mr. D-.  of New
York, one of the mess at the Provence, took me a drive in his
tilbury.  Our route was westward, along the course of the river,
in the direction of Palermo de San Benito, the quinta, or country
seat of Rosas. Policy-by such demonstration of courtly attention to the supreme chief-as well as pleasure, leads all who drive
or ride, to take that direction; and as we descended from the
heights of the town, through the Alemeda fronting the river, to
the road along its banks, the whirl of carriages and gigs, and the
prancing and galloping of gay riders on horseback, was quite
metropolitan.  The speed of all was very much that of Gilpinthe females being mounted in the in-door costume of short
dresses, bare arms, bare necks and bare heads: with the exception, in some cases, of the partial covering of a silk handkerchief
on the head, tied under the chin. I saw none in the hat and habit
worn in England and America, though doubtless in a city where
foreign fashions are so extensively introduced, these have been
adopted, to some extent at least, by the higher classes.
On gaining the level of the beach, the road passes over a flat
and marshy common, without any enclosure of fence or hedge on
either side. Here, by the river's side on the right, was presented,
for a mile and more, a striking spectacle, in hundreds after hundreds —I had almost said thousands of negro washerwomen, in



178               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
describable in their costulmes-scrubbing, beating, slapping, rinsing,
and bleaching ten thousand articles of clothing.  It is a natural
laundry, to which the soiled linen of the whole city is brought
for cleansing.  The soft rock of the shores is filled with holes,
some natural and others artificial, which, on every flow of the
tide, are filled with fresh water. These are converted into
wash-tubs, and, after being used, are left to be emptied of the
suds by the next flood, and to be refilled with clean water by its
ebb.  Each washerwoman has her own little reservoir of this
kind, to which she gains the exclusive right, by the payment of a
small fee to the government. The wind was blowing a half gale,
lashing the river into foam, and dashing the spray far on the
shore; while clouds of dust on the land were driven before it,
like drifting snow in a winter's storm  at home.  When on our
way back the whole company, spread along the banks for a mile
or more, were preparing to return to the city; and such a Babel,
in the varied intonations and chatter, the laugh and the wrangle,
the shout and the jeer, I scarcely recollect to have heard; while the
oddity of the packages and bundles, the trays and baskets, borne
on their heads, the endless form and color of the rags and tatters
they wore-their old hats and old shoes, presented a scene grotesque beyond description.
Another novel scene was vast numbers of the lofty, cumbrous,
reed-sided and hide-roofed carts of the pampas, arranged in a
kind of camp on either side of the road. They are "the ships
of the desert " here, by which the whole produce of the interior,
for hundreds of miles, is brought to the market, and by which
the returns of foreign import are carried to the remotest
districts of the Confederation. They constitute the only habitations and homes of their owners and their families: bear
with them all the household furniture and worldly goods of
these; and, in addition, often have lashed to their tops or under
their axles the trunk and branches of a tree, for wood with
which to prepare, whenever a halt is made, the indispensable
mat6, or native tea.  Their wheels are from six to eight feet




CARTS OF THE PAMPAS.                  179
in diameter, and their covered tops rise fifteen feet from  the
ground. They are long and narrow, of most heavy and clumsy
construction, with tongues of rough-hewn timber, each in itself a
load for a beast. They are drawn by oxen, attached by ropes of
hide, in any number of pairs requisite for the draught.  As means
of transportation, they correspond well in their massive clumsiness
and ponderous weight with the elephant of India, or the burdenbearing camel of Egypt and Turkey: and as they move in long
lines over pampas of almost unlimited extent, form a feature not
less striking, and not less in harmony with the surrounding scene,
than the caravan in the deserts of Arabia, or the elephant on the
plains of Bengal.
February 24th.-On Washington's birthday, the 22d inst.,
Mr. Harris, the American charge6 d'affaires, gave a banquet to
Commodore McKeever, and others of his fellow countrymen,
visitors and residents in the city.  The evening of the same day
had been appointed for the reception of the commodore by "the
governor," as Rosas is here styled. A government-house, covering the area of half a square, in the centre of the city, has recently
been completed by the chieftain.  It encloses quadrangle after
quadrangle of spacious and elegantly furnished apartments, but is
visited only occasionally by him for a few brief hours, at uncertain
times.  His chosen, and, indeed, only residence, properly so
called, is the palatial quinta, or country-house of Palermo de
San Benito, situated in the midst of an extensive domain, on the
banks of the Plata, three or four miles west of the city. I most
readily accepted an invitation to be of the party, glad to avail
myself of the opportunity for- a sight of the tiger in his den.
Pardon the figure, but I have heard so much of his bloody ferocity
in subduing the people to his abject rule, that no other will so
well express my sense of his nature, and of the mysterious and
guarded retirement of his present life: an unchained monster,
in the security of a well-protected lair. The prospect of the
interview revived in fresh force all I had ever heard and read
of his atrocious deeds; and- the anticipation of being in his




180               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.,
presence, was not without the superstitious feeling of being exposed by it to the hazard of the " evil eye."  There was no certainty, however, notwithstanding the appointment, that an interview
with him would take place.  He is so arbitrary and so capricious
in his imperious rule, as to pay little regard to the ordinary
civilities of life; and makes not only his own ministers and people
abide his whims and pleasure, but diplomatic agents and foreign
ambassadors also, are often obliged to dance attendance by the
hour in his ante-rooms, without an audience, if such be his will.
In the exercise of this despotic habit, however, one redeeming,
and-socially, if not diplomatically-compensating indulgence
is ever granted to such persons: the presence and smiles, the
spirited conversation and the winning grace and manner of his
accomplished daughter, the Doiia Manuelita de Rosas.  Of a reception by her we were sure.
We set off at a sufficiently early hour to allow time for a view
of the grounds of Palermo before nightfall; and followed the
same route I had taken with Mr. D —-.  At the distance of a
mile from the city, after having crossed the common along the
beach, we entered a broad and straight macadamized avenue,
scientifically constructed, and in fine order.  It is enclosed on
either side by a neat iron railing, and is bordered with plantations
of willow, and furnished with handsome lamp-posts and lamps for
the night.  It is a public road, constructed by Rosas: commencing at Palermo and to be extended to the city, and is still
in progress.  At the end of a mile and a half, a similar, but
more beautiful avenue branches from this, and forms the private
entrance to the domain, leading directly in front of the palace-like
domicil of the Dictator. It is a half mile in length, is lined with
orange trees in addition to the willows; and, besides these, is
separated from the public road which runs parallel with it, by a
broad and deep canal of brick-work.  This private road is formed
of sea-shell, and is as white and hard as so much marble.  All
dust is kept down by the sprinkling of water; while the sward on
either side, clipt with the care of an English lawn, through the




QUINTA OF PALERMO.                    181
same means is ever in living freshness. The orange trees are
nurtured with great care, and are frequently washed with brush
and soap-suds, leaf by leaf, by persons in charge of them. As
we passed, numerous peons, in the gay and picturesque dress of
the country, were seen engaged in this process on a kind of step
ladder, by which access was had to every part of each tree.
Equal care is taken of them  in the winter season, by enclosing
each in a temporary house, to guard against the effect of frost.
A nearer approach brought us to a cantonment of soldiers, consisting of a village of regularly disposed brick huts, of uniform
construction.  A park of artillery was near by, and clusters
of soldiers in scarlet ponchos and petticoat-like chirepas were
grouped on every side.  These multiplied'in number to the very
doors of the villa.
The first impression, as we drove rapidly through this imagery, was striking and peculiar: the picture, in its still life, was
one of high civilization and princely expenditure not anticipated;
but one, strongly marked in all that gave animation to it, with
evidences of a demi-savage state.  But for these-the Indian-like
costume, the dark and wild countenances, and the savage knives
seen sticking in the belts of the soldiers and peons —one might
almost have believed himself on the shores of the Zuyder Zee:
so dead is the level of the ground; while the broad and deep
canals of finished workmanship, the artificial lakelets, aquatic
plants and water-fowl, the gay parterres and embanked terraces,
presented imagery answering well to a scene in Holland.  Every
thing, too, was in straight lines; roads, canals, plantations, and
the villa itself.  This is a parallelogram, having a rectangular
pavilion projecting from each angle.  It stands on one corner of
two intersecting avenues, presenting a fapade of two hundred and
sixty feet front and rear, by one of two hundred and fifty on
either side. It is one story in height, and the architecture throughout uniform. A wide corridor, supported by heavy arches, runs
around the whole.  All the apartments open by doors and French
windows upon this, as well as upon a quadrangular court within.




182               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
The roof is flat, and is surrounded by an iron balustrade, ornamented
at regular and short intervals by a kind of demi-turret, having the
effect of a like number of chimneys, a purpose to which many of them
are, in fact, appropriated. The preparations for the reception, in
a guard of honor, to present arms as the commodore should alight,
were not at the principal front, but at the farthest angle of the
most western pavilion, on the garden front. We thus passed
two sides of the structure before being set down. We were then
conducted through a spacious saloon of state, to the corridor or
arcade on the east end of the building, again through the length
of this to the extreme eastern pavilion on the front, past which
we had first driven —thus making the circuit of the entire establishment, before being ushered into the private drawing-room of
Dona Manuelita.  We found her standing here with two female
companions in waiting, and were received with the cordiality and
affability of long acquaintance.
This daughter of " the governor " is probably the most remarkable woman in South America: certainly so, as the impersonation of a government, which she confessedly is, and the only
visible agent of its influence and power.  Rosas himself, in
his official position, is a kind of invisible personage —never, on
any occasion, or under any circumstances, making his appearance
publicly.  It is said there are thousands of people in Buenos
Ayres who have never seen him. A sight of him may often
be caught in his grounds, superintending a gang of workmen,
or perhaps witnessing the punishment, even to death, of a soldier,
or some victim who is suffering, justly or unjustly, the penalty
of the law or of his displeasure. Ile may be seen, too, at times,
talking and jesting with the fishermen along the shore of the
river on his domain, or driving Jehu-like, in the dead of the
night, from Palermo to the city, or from the city to Palermo: it
being his habit, from motives of policy, to make his appearance
suddenly, at an hour, and under circumstances least to be expected; but never in public, in his appropriate place as chief
mtagistrate and head of the people.  On all public occasions, and




DONA MANUELITA.                    183
in all public places, Manuelita alone appears as his representative; and as the embodiment of his will and the channel of his
favor, receives the homage of sovereignty.  While she acts no
unimportant part in the negotiations of diplomacy and in foreign
affairs, she is, virtually, the minister both of the " Interior " and
of 1" Justice " in the government, tempering with mercy, as far as
in her power, every act of oppression, and diffusing, in name at
least, a semblance of benevolence wherever her influence reaches.
Four hours of each morning are appropriated by her, to the
receipt of petitions, the hearing of individual grievances and
applications for redress. For this object, a bureau with a regular
set of secretaries is established, where records are made of all
cases brought before her, for her own decision, or for the intervention of her influence with her father.  As may be rightly
inferred from these facts, she is a woman of talent and judgment,
and of infinite tact.  Her age is thirty-five.  She is of good
height and fine figure, has regular and good features, black hair
and eyes, with a beaming and benignant expression, and in complexion is a Spanish brunette.  Her manners are graceful and
winning, her conversation animated and playful, with a word
of. complaisance and a smile of kindness to all who approach, and
are around her. Though a polished and elegant woman, she affects
nothing of the stately dignity and lofty bearing of some of the
aristocratic and high-bred whom I have seen —but has the easy,
self-possessed, frank and cordial air, often met in every-day society. She is said to be exceedingly popular, and to be sincerely
beloved by the people: as well she may be, if she does, indeed,
exert the immense influence for good, which is reported of, and
claimed by her friends for her, in softening, by acts of clemency
and womanly mercy, the iron rule of her father.
Scarlet, or the veritable blood-tint, is the prescribed color of
the government, and the silent, though exacted pledge of allegiance to the chief in power. Every man and boy under his
rule, must don at all times the scarlet waistcoat, scarlet hatband, and the scarlet breast-ribbon, stamped with the motto of




184              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
death to his political opponents.  Women and girls, also, of
every rank and all ages, must exhibit the scarlet ribbon in their
hair or head-dress. It was no surprise, therefore, to see the
Dorna and her ladies, on a hot evening in midsummer, arrayed in
scarlet silk bareges of large plaid, over under-dresses of white,
with the scarlet ribbon and its savage motto, streaming among
the tresses of their black hair. The predominating hue of the
reception room-in the hangings of the walls, the draperies of
the windows, and the carpet, was of the same color.  This
apartment is lofty and spacious. A grand piano and harp were
conspicuous among its furniture.
The usual apology was made,-the pressure of important business-for the delay in the appearance of the governor, with the
gracious assurance, however, that he would give audience to the
commodore; and it was proposed, in the mean time, to take a view
of the grounds, before nightfall.  This we did, under the guidance of'the sprightly and accomplished mistress of ceremonies
and her ladies. They are very extensive, in a perfection of
order, and in many respects novel and striking; but are too full
of straight lines for beauty and artistic effect. The whole
domain is a dead level-a swamp redeemed by draining and embankments from the overflowings of the river, and the quagmires
of a marsh.  The sums expended in transforming it into a paradise, compared with every thing around, are beyond all estimate;
and make the place, at least in the outlay of money and labor,
the most princely estate in either North or South America.
The predominating growth in trees is the willow, imparting
to the whole a sombre aspect; but the flower-gardens and shrubberies are brilliant in the display of colors, and sweet *in the
variety and richness of their perfume. A paved court extends
along the arcades around the whole building. On the two sides
communicating with the lawns, this court is enclosed by parterres of choice flowers, elevated three or four feet upon walls,
and ornamented at regular distances by classically modelled urns




PLEASURE GROUNDS AT PALERMO.                185
and vases, also crowned and festooned with floral beauty.  The
effect of both is ornamental and pretty.
A rustic arbor with a dome-shaped top, overrun with clustering roses, woodbine, and sweetbrier, and encircled with busts in
marble on pedestals, and one or two full-length figures in plaster,
was specially commended to our notice, as the favorite retreat of
Dona Manuelita.  Not far from  it, on the lawn, is a humble
whitewashed cottage-the first domicil of Rosas on taking possession of the estate. It is scarcely superior, in its aspect and
accommodations, to the rancho of a common peon: but is retained
in its original state as a memento of the past, or possibly for contrast with the courtly splendor of the present establishment.
Some years ago, an American brigantine, at anchor in the
river, was driven by-a violent storm and flood, high and dry into
the woods of Palermo. Its restoration to the water was impracticable.  She was still stanch and uninjured, both in hull and
spars, and Rosas, in place of permitting her to be broken up for
the sale of the material, purchased the craft with the purpose of
converting her, as she stood, into a pavilion of pleasure.  Brought
to an even keel, she was substantially underpinned; and thus
firmly moored, and, remodelled between decks into a dancing
saloon and refreshment rooms, is a favorite place for the entertainment of select parties in'summer.  It is situated a half mile
from the house, and our walk extended to it.
As we returned to the quinta, the shades of the evening were
beginning to fall.  Two of the pavilions mentioned as being
attached to the angles of the main building-those on the garden
front —are unenclosed by walls, each forming an open saloon, furnished with ranges of crimson sofas, on which beneath the protecting roof, the cool of the evening may be enjoyed with uninterrupted views on every side. Into the most retired of these
we were now conducted; and, while standing in a group in the
centre, with our faces directed to the lawn and shrubbery, I
perceived a figure stealthily approaching from behind, without the
warning even of a footfall, till a little pliant riding-whip of




186              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
polished whalebone, mounted with red coral, was playfully tapped
on the bare shoulder of the Donia. Turning suddenly, as if in
surprise, she exclaimed in a tone of pleasure and affection" Tatita! " a diminutive of fondness by which she addresses and
speaks of her father; and following her example in' a change of
position, we found ourselves in the presence of the far-famed
Ruler. Though the place and circumstances of our presentation
were seemingly thus accidental, both doubtless were of previous
arrangement, to give greater informality to the audience. Rosas
is now a thick-set, portly man of sixty, of medium height, with
finely marked and well chiselled features, and of florid complexion. In youth and middle age he is said to have been remarkably handsome. The feature which first and most deeply
arrested my attention was a piercing, restless, fiery eye of grayish
blue. Whether from previous prejudice or not, to me its expression seemed singularly devoid of ingenuousness and benignity
— indeed, to be positively sinister and tiger-like. His dress was
a round-jacket of dark blue, with small military buttons; the
inevitable scarlet waistcoat, ribbon, and motto; and an undress
military cap, with the visor drawn low over his eyebrows.  His
manner and address were common-place and familiar, without any
mingling of the dignity of the Spanish Hidalgo in high position.
After an interchange of salutations, and some brief conversation on indifferent topics, he led the way, with Commodore
McKeever by his side, through the long, intervening arcade to
the drawing room in the front pavilion, in which we had first been
received. Here, seated in an angle of the lofty apartment, with
the leading gentlemen of our party on his right, and his daughter
and her ladies on the left, he at once took the lead in conversation, running loquaciously from subject to subject of trifling
importance, and often interlarding his statements and opinions
with low anecdote and vulgar details, unfit " for ears polite," much
less for the hearing of women of delicacy and refinement.




INTERVIEW  WITH ROSAS.              187
So full of conversation was he, and seemingly so anxious to
please, that our stay was prolonged beyond all expectation; and
we were disappointed in the pleasure of an evening with Mr. and
Mrs. C —-, whose country-seat lies between Palermo and the
city.




CHAPTER XVI.
BUENOS AYRES.
February 25th.-The  Argentine confederation, composed
originally of thirteen states, joined together in compact, but not
by constitution, under the style of the United Provinces of La
Plata, has become practically consolidated and merged in the
State of Buenos Ayres. Being the only province possessed of a
sea-port, and enjoying an extended commerce, she was encharged
by the others with the management of the foreign relations of
the confederacy. This naturally made her the controlling power;
she increased while the rest decreased. The result was a division
of the people of the provinces into two parties, and speedy conflict and anarchy. At this juncture Rosas raised his standard,
and subdued the whole to his sway; and though nominally only
governor of the city and province of Buenos Ayres, encharged
with the sole ministration of the foreign affairs of the confederacy, he is, in fact, the despotic ruler of the whole.
He is the most remarkable chieftain in South America;
possessing all the elements of character essential to the successful
despot: firmness, energy, shrewdness, subtlety, unscrupulous
purpose, and unfaltering cruelty. Sprung from a Spanish family
of respectability in Buenos Ayres, the recklessness of his early
youth led to his removal by them to what is here termed the
" Camp "-the open country of the pampas, over which are scattered




EARLY LIFE OF ROSAS.                  189
the estancias, or estates of landed proprietors, for the raising of
cattle, sheep, and horses. Here, among the gauchos, or demisavage peasants of the interior, he was made an overseer by a
wealthy relative in Buenos Ayres.  Adopting the usages and
habits of savage life of the people, he became, in the course of
years, thoroughly a gaucho; and distinguished himself by the
control he acquired over his associates, and over the scarcely more
untamed Indians of the southern territory. He excelled in all
the personal qualities and feats of skill most prized by them, and
gained their unlimited favor. The reputation thus established,
first called the attention of partisan leaders in the confederacy to
him; and secured for him, as early as 1820, from the party in power
the appointment of colonel of the militia of the southern frontier.
In this position he gained additional reputation and new popularity;
till, fired with ambition, he began in 1829 to lay the foundations for
the despotism which he has since exercised. Having secured the
favor of the good among the people, by the evidences he had
given of a power to win the confidence and to control the will of
the wild men around him, he is charged with the determination
of gaining that of the evil, by making his camp the sanctuary of
every class of criminals; and thus surrounding himself-with the
deliberate purpose of making the use of them he afterwards didby an organized band of assassins. Whether this be true or not, it
is an undoubted fact that, after being placed at the head of the
government, he soon put an end to all hazard of rivalry in power,
by processes of bloodshed and assassination through such minions
of his favor, almost beyond belief. Volumes might be written,
as volumes already have been, upon the tragedies with which, from
time to time in his early rule, he startled and terrified the cornm
munity, till every one was brought to the subjection of abject
fear: all this, too, under the pretence and plausible plea of sustaining the law and securing public quietude and order.
The justification which he himself pleads, for acts of cruelty
which are admitted, is that " the Argentines can only be governed
with the knife at their throats; " and the highest vindication of




190              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
his character which I have heard from some foreigners, who do
not believe in the extent of the atrocities with which he is charged,
and are disposed even to admire him as a man and a ruler, is that
his faults are to be attributed to the defects of his education and
his habits as a gaucho-that he is but a type of the people.
This may be true; but what is the state and character of the
people-the gauchos of whom he is the type? The best description I have seen of them, is in a pamphlet by the Chevalier de
St. Robert, a French gentleman, who visited the Plata officially.
This you may not be able to refer to, and I furnish the extract
in point.
He says: " There is nothing to be found in the Pampasthose immense plains which extend over a space of more than
seven hundred leagues, from the extreme north to the extreme
south of the Argentine Confederation-but estancias, or farms,
scattered here and there, which form so many petty republics,
isolated from the rest of the world, living by themselves, and
separated from each other by the desert. Alone in the midst of
those over whom he is a complete master, the estanciero is out
of every kind of society whatsoever, with no other law than that
of force, with no other rules to guide him but those that are
self-imposed, and with no other motive to influence than his own
caprice. There is nothing to disturb his repose, nothing to dispute his power, or interfere with his tranquillity, except the tiger
that may lurk about his grounds, or the wild Indian that may
occasionally make a hostile incursion on his domains. His children and his domestics, gauchos like himself, pass the same sort
of life; that is to say, without ambition, without desires, and
without any species of agricultural labor. All they have to do
is to mark and to kill, at certain periods, the herds of oxen and
flocks of sheep which constitute the fortune of the estanciero, and
that satisfy the wants of all. Purely carnivorous, the gaucho's
only food consists of flesh and water-bread and spirituous liquors
are as much unknown to him as the simplest elements of social
life.




LIFE IN THE PAMPAS.                   191
"In a country in which the only wealth of the inhabitants
arises from the incessant destruction of innumerable herds and
flocks, it can easily be understood how their sanguinary occupation must tend to obliterate every sentiment of pity, and induce
an indifference to the perpetration of acts of cruelty. The readiness to shed blood-a ferocity which is at the same time obdurate
and brutal-constitutes the prominent feature in the character
of the pure gaucho. The first instrument his infantile hand
grasps is the knife-the first things that attract his attention as a
child, are the pouring out of blood and the palpitating flesh of
animals.  From his earliest years, as soon as he is able to walk,
he is taught how he may with the greatest skill approach the
living beast, hough it, and, if he has strength, kill it. Such are
the sports of his childhood: he pursues them ardently, and amid
the approving smiles of his family. As soon as he acquires
sufficient strength, he takes part in the labors of the estancia;
they are the sole arts he has to study, and he concentrates all his
intellectual powers in mastering them.  From  that time forth he
arms himself with a large knife, and for a single moment of his
life he never parts with it.  It is to his hand an additional limbhe makes use of it always, in all cases, in every circumstance, and
constantly with wonderful skill and address. The same knife that
in the morning has been used to slaughter a bullock, or to kill a
tiger, aids him in the daytime to cut his dinner, and at night to
carve out a skin tent, or else to repair his saddle, or to mend his
mandoline.
" With the gaucho the knife is often used as an argument in
support of his opinions. In the midst of a conversation, apparently carried on in amity, the formidable knife glitters on a
sudden in the hands of one of the speakers, the ponchos are rolled
around the left arm, and a conflict commences. Soon deep gashes
are seen on the face, the blood gushes forth, and, not unfrequently,
one of the combatants falls lifeless to the earth; but no one
thinks of interfering with the combat, and when it is over, the
fv-ersation is resumed as if nothing extraordinary had occurred.




192               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
No person is disturbed by it-not even the women, who remain
as cold, unmoved spectators of the affray! It may easily be
surmised what sort of persons they must be, of which such a
scene is but a specimen of their domestic manners.
" Thus the savage education of the estancia produces in the
gaucho a complete indifference as to human life, by familiarizing
him from his most tender years to the contemplation of a violent
death, whether it is that he inflicts it on another, or receives it
himself.  He lifts his knife against a man with the same indifference that he strikes down a bullock.  The idea which everywhere
else attaches to the crime of homicide does not exist in his mind;
for in slaying another, he yields not less to habit than to the
impulse of his wild and barbarous nature. If perchance a murder
of this kind is committed so close to a town that there is reason
to apprehend the pursuit of justice, every one is eager to favor
the flight of the guilty person. The fleetest horsel is at his
service, and he departs, certain to find, wherever he goes, the favor
and sympathy of all. Then, with that marvellous instinct which
is common to all the savage races, he feels no hesitation in venturing into the numerous plains of the pampas. Alone, in the midst
of a boundless desert, and in which the eye strains itself in vain
to discover a boundary, he advances without the slightest feeling
of uneasiness: he does so watching the course of the stars, listening-to the winds, discovering the cause of the slightest noise that
reaches his ears, and at length arrives at the place he sought,
without even straying from it, for a moment. The lasso which is
rolled around his horse's neck; the bolas suspended from his
saddle, and the inseparable knife, suffice to insure him food, and
to' secure him against every danger, even against the tiger.
When he is hungry, he selects one out of the herds of beeves that
cover the plain, pursues it, lassos it, kills-it, cuts out of it a piece
of flesh, which he eats raw, or possibly cooks, and thus refreshes
himself for the journey of the following day.
"If murder be a common incident in the, life of a gancho, is
often also becomes the means to him of emer`r;.  fron (+o S;ii'.,




POLICE OF BUENOS AYRES.                 193
and of obtaining renown among his associates.  When he has
rendered himself remarkable by his audacity and address in single
combats, companions gather round him, and he soon finds himself
at the head of a considerable party.  He'commences a campaign,' sets himself in open defiance of the laws, and in a short
time acquires a celebrity which rallies a crowd about him, and
makes him a chieftain."  Such are the people of whom Rosas is
the type, and such the processes, in a qualified degree at least,
by which he attained, and still holds his supremacy.
Are you not afraid of your life even in Buenos Ayres? you
will be ready to ask, after reading such a description of the
people who surround, and have the military guardianship of the
city. I reply, that there probably is not a city in the civilized
world, in which all, not suspected of political or partisan offense,
are more perfectly secure in life, limb,, and property.  The police
is perfect. The stranger and foreigner especially, may move about
the streets at any hour of the night, with perfect impunity.
Theft, robbery, and burglary are unheard of; and a pocket-handkerchief or purse dropped in the street, if bearing any mark
which indicates its owner, will be sure to be returned to him, or
quickly be found in the keeping of the police.
February 26th. —The impressions made by Buenos Ayres in
its external aspect, are increasingly favorable.  The plan of
the town is rectangular, like that of Philadelphia. Every street is
of the same width, and every square of the same dimensions. The
streets are narrow, just wide enough for two vehicles to pass each
other, and the sidewalks comfortable only for those moving in
Indian file.  In walking two abreast, or arm in arm, there is a
constant jostling against passers-by.  In some parts of the town
the sidewalks are elevated two or three feet above the level of the
carriage-way.  The city being a dead level, and the streets
straight, long vistas in thenm are every where commanded.  Some
of these are striking, and where the domes and fine towers of the
old Spanish churches come in as leading features, are quite
European.  These stately old structures are scattered about in
9




194               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
various localities, and, with the citadel on the highest rise of
ground overlooking the river, are the chief, if not the only sombre
objects in the architecture of the place: still retaining the natural
color of the brick of which they are built, or exhibiting timestained surfaces of stone or stucco, and roofs covered with moss,
lichens, and grass. Till within a few years, the houses were uniformly one story only in height. This is still the case in many
quarters, but in others, successive blocks and almost entire streets
are now composed of those of two stories. The general plan of
all is the same: the Spanish, or rather Moorish quadrangle, upon
which all the apartments open, with a cistern, and sometimes a
fountain in the centre.  In many of the establishments of the
wealthy, there are a succession of these quadrangles. Filled with
shrubbery and flowers, and often ornamented by a fountain, the
view from the street through them, terminating not unfrequently
in an assimilating scene in fresco against a wall in the far perspective, is quite impressive in stage effect. The custom of constantly applying fresh whitewash to buildings new and old, gives
to the whole city a clean and bright look. Here and there,
however, in almost every street, a quaint and antiquated building
is seen, contrasting with later structures, in the manner of the
old Dutch houses still remaining, a few years ago, in New York
and Albany, with those of modern date. These are a single story
in height, with slanting, instead of flat roofs, covered with tile.
Over the central door, however, there is a kind of demi-tower,
furnished with a window and projecting balcony, as a look-out and
place of parley with an outsider whose motive for demanding
admittance might be questioned. In many cases these look-outs
are quite tasteful in their architecture, and pleasing to the eye
from  the air they bear of the "olden time."   Lichens, airplants, and tufting grass clinging to the cornices and mouldings
and ornamented pinnacles, give to them a venerable, moustached,
and bearded aspect, that cannot fail to arrest the eye of the lover
of the antique.
Great improvements have been made of late years, both in the




DESCRIPTION OF THE CITY.                 195
external architecture and internal arrangements of private dwellings.  Many of the mansions recently erected would scarcely
suffer, in point of richness and elegance, by comparison with some
of the most luxurious of the Fifth Avenue in New York.  This
is especially true of one just being completed by Gen. P —, the
minister of war: though the lofty and massive entrance-gates, in
complicated and artistic patterns of cast-iron bronzed, and the
colonnades of Moorish arches surrounding its quadrangular courts
within, would not ent'irely harmonize with the prevailing architecture of that street of palaces.
Every house here is necessarily a castle, having its windows
on the street barred and grated, with portals not easily to be
forced, and parapets, upon the flat roof, capable of effective defence against assailants below. Being without cellars or basementrooms, the level of the floors is elevated but little above that of
the street, and as no railing or area intervenes between the sidewalks and the large windows, which descend to the floors, the interior
of the room is as open to the inspection of the passers by, as to
the inmates themselves. In some residences of wealth and taste,
a vista of room after room in long suites, richly furnished, is thus
exposed to view. The apartments on the street, with scarcely an
exception, are reception and drawing-rooms; and, in the afternoons and evenings, the promenaders in the street are thus furnished with a succession of tableaux vivans of females-not
occupied as with us in conversation, or reading, or fancy work, or
other employments of leisure and taste, and grouped with husbands,
and fathers, and brothers, and sons, and other male friendsbut seated in formal rows, or in a semicircle around the windows,
in a greater or less degree of' full dress,' with little interchange
of conversation among themselves, and evidently for the mere
purpose of seeing and being seen. Every thing in their dress and
manner shows the studied purpose of exciting admiration. These
exhibitions, however, are only in hours of costume. Till late in
the day the ladies of the country in general are invisible; very




196              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
much in undress, lounging, and idling, and sipping Paraguay tea
through the silver tube of the mate cup.
An American or Englishman cannot fail to be struck with
the seemingly slight intercourse of the male and female members
of a family. The latter are to all external appearance without
husbands, fathers, brothers, or sons. You meet them in numbers
in the morning, going to and returning from mass, followed by a
servant or servants, but seldom, if ever, attended by a male
relative. The evening is a favorite time for shopping, and the
streets are often crowded in some sections, with ladies thus engaged, but unattended by a gentleman in escort. And in the
hundreds of parlors and drawing-rooms into which I have looked
in passing, I do not recollect ever to have seen a gentleman, old
or young, in the groupings of a family circle.
A week being the extent of the leave of absence which I feel
willing to take from my charge on board ship, and from the voluntary duty I have assumed at the chapel in Montevideo; with the
purpose of returning to the Congress to-morrow, I gave therefore
the mornings of yesterday and to-day to calls in acknowledgment
of the civilities from our fellow-countrymen, and various foreign
residents, in which, as one of Commodore McKeever's party, I
have shared. In the course of these, I accompanied the Commodore and Mr. G- in a visit to the Conde de Bessi,
bishop of a diocese of unpronounceable name and unknown
region, and nuncio from the Pope to Rosas.  The disregard
which Rosas has shown in ecclesiastical matters for the supremacy
of the Pope, and the sacrilege, in the view of the Romnish Church,
of some of his acts, led long ago to his excommunication, and the
withdrawal by the Papal States from all diplomatic intercourse
with him. The Conde de Bessi has recently arrived, with overtures of reconciliation. Though every civility has been paid to
him in his official character, by the government, and a house elegantly fitted and furnished been appropriated to his use, with
other marks of courtesy-carriages and horses at his service-he
has not yet been admitted to an audience, and, it is believed, will




NUNCIO OF THE POPE.                   197
not be.  The preliminary to negotiation which the nuncio demands-the release of the clergy from the obligation of wearing
the red ribbon, stamped with the motto of death to the political
opponents of the dictator, which they are forced to do, even
while officiating at the altar-is one that will not be accorded;
and unless the legate yields on this point, he will fail in his
mission.
Our visit being announced, we were ushered into the cabinet
of his excellency-first through a large and elegantly furnished
saloon, and then through a smaller apartment, fitted as a chapel
with all the appliances of Romish worship.  The reception of
our party by the count was most courteous, and the conversation
in French which ensued, animated, and on his part, most complimentary to the United States, as to her prosperity and her power.
HIe appears to be about forty years of age; is very plump and
healthful, with little that is ascetic in look or manner. He is very
handsome, with a face as fresh and smooth and round as that of
a female, and an expression beaming with benignity and high
breeding. His voice and intonation are of the most silvery
softness, and his whole manner as feminine and polished as that
of a duchess. Indeed, so remarkably was this the case, that as
I looked at him in his silken robe of purple reaching to the heels,
and with a cap of velvet on his head, of corresponding color, I
found it difficult to disabuse myself of the impression that the
interview was with one of the fair sex.




CHAPTER XVII.
MONTEVIDEO.
fay 30th.-Scarcely any duty in naval service can be
more destitute of interest, than such as the Congress is performing off Montevideo at the present time.  To the close investinent of the city by land, a practical blockade is added, from a
decree of iRosas, by which every vessel touching here on her way
up the Plata is denied entry at Buenos Ayres.  The consequence
is-there being little demand for imports and nothing to export
at Montevideo-that no vessel in the trade of the Plata comes
into the port except from necessity, and the arrivals are limited,
for the most part, to a man-of-war, occasionally, and the regular
mail-steamer from England, by the way of Rio de Janeiro, once
each month. My chaplaincy on board, and the additional service
of worship each Sabbath on shore, furnish the only variation in
my duty; and an occasional row or sail to the city for a walk or
the visit of an hour, in a limited circle of acquaintance, my only
recreation. For opportunities of visiting the shore I am indebted
chiefly to the kindness of Commodore McKeever: Captain
McIntosh, so frequently the companion of my walks at Rio, here
scarcely ever leaves the ship.
The recent arrival in which we were most interested was that
of the U. S. storeship Southampton. It brought Dr. CQ to the
Congress as fleet surgeon, in place of Dr. W —, who returned




THE POOR OF MONTEVIDEO.                  199
home invalided, shortly after our arrival on the station. This
loss to the medical corps of the ship and to our mess was regretted.
In the substitute furnished, we are greatly favored. As a physician
and surgeon Dr. C — is worthy of all confidence; and as a gentleman and Christian, carries with him predominating influence.
The value of such an accession to a naval mess-table and to the
associations of the gun-room of a man-of-war, can scarcely be
over-estimated.
Another circumstance connected with the Southampton, in
which we felt great interest, proved less happy in the issue. TheCongress, through a mistake not discovered till she was at sea,
left the United States without a suitable library for the use of
the crew.  As soon as this was known, I took measures to have
one sent after us.  This was shipped by the Southampton and
arrived safely here; but from an oversight of the officer in
charge, was carried again to sea by her, on proceeding to her destination in the Pacific.  The disappointment to the crew is great,
and only to be remedied by patiently waiting for the return of
a fresh order to the United States.
My visits on shore are most unvarying in their character.
Sometimes I take a solitary stroll through the less public streets
of the city; but never without feelings of commiseration for
the depressed and suffering condition of the poorer classes.  The
pale and haggard faces of the females, seen at the doors and windows, tell one story of privation and want —of listless despondency
and gloom. The extent and degree of destitution, from the long
suspension of all business, is fearful, among those even who have
been accustomed to independence, if not to affluence and luxury.
Among such, the poorest scraps that fall from the tables of the
more fortunate are most thankfully received; and any kind of employment is eagerly sought. Females of the first respectability are
glad to be employed in making up linen in a most finished style,
at a half dollar a shirt, and at six and eight cents a collar. The
demoralization among all classes, in consequence of the pressure




200               RRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
of want, is very great, I am told, and of a character fatal to the
purity and self-respect of individuals and whole families.
The only semblance of general cheerfulness observable, is in
the daily evening promenade to witness the relief of guard.
This takes place at the inner lines without the walls, every evening at sunset. During the previous hour, in fine weather, hundreds of the better classes of the citizens both foreigners and
natives, in a greater or less display. of dress, may be seen issuing
through the ancient gateway of the northern wall, for the walk
of a mile through the broad and straight street, leading from it
to a battery where the relief of guard takes place, and to listen
to the music of the bands with which this is accompanied.
I have mentioned the presence here of fifteen hundred or two
thousand French troops with their officers.  They are quartered
in barracks, a part within and a part without the walls of the old
city; and may be seen in groups and small parties in the streets
at almost all times of the dclay and evening.  Well dressed and
well fed, young and athletic, fresh and healthful in look, and
cheerful and animated in movement and manner, they constitute
quite a redeeming feature in the aspect of the city. They have
a parade-ground just without the walls, and are regularly and
severely drilled, but take no part in the military duty of the
place, and perform no patrol. This devolves exclusively upon the
Montevidean soldiery.  These, amounting to three thousand, consist chiefly of a foreign legion, composed of emigrants-Italians
from  the vicinity of Genoa, and from  Piedmont, and Basques
from the frontiers of Spain and France; and of a negro regiment
under the command of native officers. The negroes, till the commencement of the war' were slaves; but were then liberated by a
decree of the government, without compensation to their masters,
on condition of entering the army for the continuance of the war,
with a right to a bounty of land on the restoration of peace.
The foreign legion form the municipal or national guard. They
consist of artisans, porters, laborers and boatmen, who, in successive companies are on duty as a patrol one day in three, and en



DRESS OF THE GAUCHOS.                  201
gaged in their various callings the rest of the time.  The negroes
are regular soldiers.  They are said to be brave and faithful,
and have proved themselves most reliable on post and in battle.
The dress of the foreigners is that of their every-day laborthe jacket and trowsers and Pelasgic cap of the Basques; but the
negro regiment are in uniform —the dress of the gauchos, or
Indio-Spaniards, of the country.  This is striking and picturesque, though Indian-like and savage in its general effect: at best
barbarism,' picked out,'-as carriage painters say-with civilization. It is composed of a red flannel shirt, beneath a poncho of
red of the same material, lined with green; a green cheripa, or
swaddling blanket for the loins and lower limbs; drawers of
white cotton terminating in wide pantalets ornamented with insertings of lace work, and a deep fringe falling over the ankles
and bare feet: the covering of the head being a conical cap of
green cloth, without visor, laced with yellow cord. It is seen to
the best effect at Buenos Ayres, where there is in the soldiers
more of the Indian and less of African blood; and where,
exhibited on horseback, the long black hair and streaming ponchos of the riders are in keeping with the flowing manes and
tails of the horses, as they scamper with the fleetness of the wind
along the beach and over the plain.
The free hospitality of two or three houses, both English and
American, in addition to the Consulate, is extended to us; and
usually, after the relief of guard, we join the family of one or
another of these for tea. It is pleasant in a strange land thus
to be received informally in a home circle, and to be made welcome, in this, the winter of the year, to the elegant comforts of
carpeted floors and curtained windows —of the glowing grate of
the fireside, and the hissing urn of the tea-table, and for the hour
to share in the social enjoyments of conversation and music. The
chief drawback to the pleasure, is the remembrance forced upon
us by such scenes, of our distant homes, and the vision in fancy of
what we there lose. This was particularly the case in the visits of
the last evening.  I made an early call at Mr.  ---—'s, and, on
t-9*




202              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA,
entering the drawing-room, found Madame L —at the piano.
After giving the accustomed kind welcome, she was prevailed
upon to continue at the instrument.  Though the mother of a
fine family of carefully educated and intelligent children —gathered at the time in various amusements round a centre-table of
the saloon-she has not thrown aside her music, but is still in
good practice. Her touch and execution are very much in the
style of Mademoiselle R —, and in some fine passages from
Verdi and other masters, brilliantly given, carried me at once to
Riverside.
I do not recollect to have mentioned the romance of the
honey-moon of Mr. and Madame L — at Buenos Ayres, in the
early days of the despotism of Rosas. Madame L -, previously the Signorita —, a native of the city, and member of the
Romish church, ventured to be married to Mr. L~ by an
American missionary, without the consent of the Dictator. This
was contrary to an existing law; and the consequence was that the
bride was very unceremoniously immured for three months in a
nunnery, while the groom and clergyman were as summarily arrested, and thrown into prison. Mr. L —- was then established
in mercantile business at Buenos Ayres. But indignant at such
an interference with the rights of conscience and personal freedom,
on regaining his liberty, he withdrew with his wife to Montevideo,
and is now a chief capitalist in this section of South America.
On joining the Commodore at Mrs. Z's, I found quite a
party of the He —-'s and other friends. The ladies were in
more dress than usual; the rooms were well lighted; and the
tea-table richly and elegantly appointed; and in the enjoyments
of an evening of music, both vocal and instrumental, including
some fine chants and psalmody, we were tempted for the time to
forget our exile.
The private dwellings in Montevideo, whether only one, or
two stories high, are all built in the Spanish-MILorescan style,
having a quadrangle within, enclosing a pateo, or open square in
the centre. Upon this, where there is but one story, and upon an




PAMPEROS AT MONTEVIDEO.                  203
eneircling verandah or corridor, above where there are two, all
the apartments open, through doors and French windows.  The
pateos in the one case, and the verandahs in the other, are usually
filled with running vines, and flowering plants and shrubs, in boxes
of earth, or in urns and vases, The parapeted walls of the flat
roofs are also often ornamented by vases, containing aloes and
various cacti; and I have often been struck, on passing to the
staircase in leaving, with the ornamental and picturesque effect
of these-especially in bright moonlight-as they stand out in
strong relief against the sky,
However good the promise of fair weather may have been in
going on shore, we never take leave for a return to the ship at
night, without a greater or less degree of uncertainty, as to the
manner and circumstances in which we may get on board.  The
shallowness of the roadstead obliges vessels of the draught of
the Congress to lie two or three miles from the shore; and even
then, such are often cradled at low water in a bed of mud three
or four feet deep; but the distance is a trifle, compared with the
obstacle to a visit to the shore, either for exercise or pleasure,
arising from the frequency and suddenness of the south and
south-west winds, called pamnperos.  These often burst over the
water with little or no warning, and by their fierceness and the sea
they raise, cut off, for twenty-four hours or more, all communication between the ship and the shore, Twice within the first week
of our arrival, a party in the Commodore's barge was detained a
night and a day on shore under such circumstances; and other
boats sent on shore on various objects of duty, at least as many
times.  Fortunately for some of us, Mr. Frazier, of the American
house of Frazier, Zimmerman & Co., being without other family
than the employ6es of the counting-room, had it in his power to
offer some of us, on those occasions, an asylum in the well-appointed residence in which he dispenses a liberal and generous
hospitality. The few hotels in the place, kept principally by
Frenchmen and Italians, are comfortless, especially in their
accommodations for sleeping.




204              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
A few nights ago, on reaching the mole, a high and piercing
wind was blowing, very much from the point we wished to steer,
tumbling a rough and wild sea before it. We could not lay
our course for the ship within several points: leaving a long and
heavy pull for the oarsmen, after we should take in sail, Close
hauled upon the wind, and plunging into the head sea, all hands
were well showered, even as far aft as the stern-sheets, by the
spray dashed from the bows. In disgust at this winding up of
the pleasures of the evening, the Commodore exclaimed that it
would be " the last of his night expeditions from  the shore; "
that hereafter he Would limit his visits to the daytime, and then
to fine weather.  However, the barge is a beautiful sea-boat,
riding the swelling waves-whether propelled by oars or canvas
— like a duck, and under sail, skimming the crested waters like
a sea-bird. When obliged at last to take to the oars, the pull to
the ship was not so long, or the trouble in getting on board on the
lee-side so great, as we had apprehended.  The next morning
the weather was tranquil as a summer's day; and the Commodore,
beckoning me to join him on the poop as he was taking a turn
before breakfast, said, "Why, Mr. S -, the getting off last
night was not so bad after all. I must take back my hard
speeches about the place and weather, and recall my rash vows.
I think we may still venture an evening's visit." This we soon
did, and our return on board, for that and two or three successive nights, was the very perfection of every thing lovely in
moonlight upon the water.  The air was mild and balmy; the
river, smooth and glassy as a lake, seemed beneath the moon.
beams, a very sea of silver; a fair and gentle land-breeze kept
the sails of the boat just steadily full-wafting us imperceptibly
along, while every thing above, beneath, and around us, was so
tranquil, so bright, and so pure, that we were charmed by it into a
musing mood of the profoundest silence.
The prevailing weather, at present, is like that of the finest
October at home, with which season-that of autumn-it corre



DISEASES OF THE CLIMATE.                205
sponds. The mornings are cool, bracing, and brilliant; at noon,
the temperature is almost hot, and the nights are humid and cold.
The sunsets are equal, in the beauty and softness of the tintings
and colors, to any I recollect to have observed in any part of the
world. To judge from the apparent purity and elasticity of the
atmosphere, it would seem that the climate could not be otherwise than healthful; yet the sick list on board the Congress, from
catarrhs, inflammation of the lungsj and rheumatism, is greater
than at any time since the beginning of our cruise.  Some
of the cases of pneumonia are very severe, and threaten to prove
fatal.  This increase of sickness and its character, are attributable, probably, to the frequent recurrence, amidst all this brightness, of wintry storms of two or three days' continuance: like a
cold and boisterous equinoctial gale in the United States, with
pouring rain and piping winds. Indeed, the anchorage here is a
terrible place for winds at all seasons of the year: terrible, not
from danger to the ships-for the whole bottom is a soft and
tenacious mud, into which large vessels safely cradle-but in the
discomfort on board in a storm, and the inconvenience of commnunicating with the shore.
The special interruptions to the monotony of a daily routine
on my own part) have been a series of infant baptisms, in the
families of various foreign residents, English, Scotch, and German; three marriages in which the grooms were foreigners alsoAmerican and English; and the funeral of an American lady,
long a resident of Montevideo.  The groom at one of the weddings was Dr. K —-  of the navy, surgeon of the St. Louis;
his bride) the Signorita L ——, daughter of Don Juan L ——,
Secretary to the Senate of the Republic of Uruguay.  The ceremony was private, Commodore McKeever, the captain of the St.
Louis, one or two other naval officers, Madame L-, the godmother of the bride, and the immediate members of the family
constituting the party. Another of the marriages was in the presence of a large company, and was followed by a general reception
of the society of Montevideo, and a ball.  The parties being




206               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
English, the presence of the representative of the British govern4
ment was necessary, to give validity to the rite, according to act
of parliament; and the ceremony was followed by the making
out of a certificate, at a centre-table of the drawing-room, on a
folio sheet of paper, to which, as first witness, the Hon, Mr. Gore,
HI. M. Charge d' Affaires, attached his name officially.  Nearly
the whole company, both ladies and gentlemen, gave witness to the
event in a similar manner, so that, in the end, the document, in
its length of signatures, rivalled a Magna Charta or Declaration
of Independence. It was the first occasion, except at the chapel,
in which I had met so large a company of Montevideans, or in
which there was a mingling of the native AmericozSpanish society.
The ladies of this blood have been celebrated by travellers for
their beauty, and for sprightliness and grace of manner; and
justly, I would say, were I to judge in the matter, from one at
least, of those present on this occasion: Mrs. R ——, the wife of
a young, but retired captain in the British navy, a son of Admiral
Sir J-  Rt ——.  She is beautiful, and apparently truly lovely,
with more of the bearing and manners of polished life than most
other ladies I have met since I left the United States.,, Others
equally favored may have joined the party afterwards, but of this
I cannot speak.  The general company were only beginning to
arrive, as, under the guidance of Mr. Gore, I left for the British
Consulate, to officiate in the baptism of a child, which had been
appointed for the same evening.
The first funeral I have been called to attend, was at the
house in which I performed the first marriage ceremony after our
arrival.  The mother of the young and lovely bride, an American
lady, was, at the time, in so feeble a state fronm consumption, as
scarce to be able to be present. She has failed rapidly since, and
was buried on the 16th.
During the years of prosperity in Montevideo, a Protestant
burial-ground was laid out, a half mile beyond the outer gate,
along the edge of a narrow  ravine and watercourse.  It was
enclosed by a handsome wall of brick, planted with trees and




PROTESTANT CEMETERY.                  207
shrubbery, contained many tombstones and monuments of marble,
and was one of the most attractive spots in the suburbs. It was
found, however, on the commencement of hostilities, that the
walls and trees gave shelter to the assailants, in their approaches
to the city, and interfered with the effect of the batteries of the
besieged. The walls consequently were razed, and the trees cut
down by the inside party. The result is an entire ruin. The
tombs and monuments are mostly overturned and destroyed, and
the place, though still appropriated to its original use, is utterly
desecrated. Scarce a stone is standing, and not a vestige of
ornament or beauty remains. I could not avoid being struck,
amid other objects in the scene-at the funeral, with the appearance of the hearse-the best the city now affords, and emblematic
of all its attempts at display. Its curtains of velvet, once doubtless black, are now faded to a muddy orange, and are all tattered
and torn; and what were, originally, plumes of ostrich feathers,
nodding gracefully at each corner, are now only bristling quills,
from which every feather has fallen in decay. It was drawn by
two miserable, starved mules in a wretched harness, and altogether
was a mockery of the pomp and pageantry of the grave.
The subject reminds me to mention the receipt by the last
English mail, of a letter from  the fanmily of Ramsey, in whose
fate you express an interest, from the account given of his sudden
death, last October. It is in answer to one by which I communicated the bereavement.  He was of a pious household, who
were deeply afflicted by the intelligence sent, but consoled by the
assurance, that every possible attention had been paid to him.
The letter is from a young man, the only surviving son of the
family. He says, " It is impossible to attempt a description of
the scene exhibited, as I endeavored to read aloud the heartrending account of the death of one we loved so dearly.  It can
never be forgotten by any one present. The whole family were
overwhelmed, and I myself entirely unmanned;" and adds in
another part-" the night after we received the melancholy
tidings, a most touching incident occurred: caused by my youngest




208               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
sister Jessie, a child of six years, when preparing to retire to
rest. She had not been told the sad news, and while on her
knees by my mother's side praying aloud, her little hands resting
upon her lap, she prayed, as was her custom, that God would keep
and bless her dear brother at sea, and bring him in safety home
to us. The scene that ensued was most afflicting; we all wept
most bitterly, while the little one cried as if her heart would
break, when told that the poor brother, for whom she prayed,
was lost to her for ever in this world.




CHAPTER XVIII.
ISLAND OF ST. CATHERINE.
Jurine 7th. —The tedium of the long stay of the Congress at
Montevideo was relieved once, by a cruise of three weeks off
the Plata. The chief object in this, was to exercise the crew at
the sails and in working ship, and to give practice at sea with the
great guns and small arms.  The effect of the change was good,
both morally and physically.  The vicinity of a port, so free to
dissipation as Montevideo, is demoralizing both to officers and
men; and it is well, as Commodore MIcKeever remarked to me
in speaking on the subject, occasionally at least to put the broad
sea between the ship and the seductions of the shore.
On the 22d ult. we again set sail for this place. The island
lies closely on the coast about midway between the Plata and
Rio de Janeiro.  It is twenty-eight miles long, from  four to
eight wide, and is separated from the main by a narrow and
irregular strait, varying in breadth from one and two, to three and
more miles. It was settled earlier than any part of the continent in this section, and gives name to the province on the main
opposite, within whose boundaries it is included. Its harbor is
-ne of the best in the Empire, and was once a great resort for
shipping, especially for refreshment and repairs by those engaged
in the whale fishery.  The principal town, called Nossa Senhora
do Desterro, or " Our Lady of Banishment or Exile," contain



210              BRAZIL AND' LA PLATA.
ing a population of eight or ten thousand inhabitants, is the capital of the province and the residence of its President.
On the inorning of the 2d inst., the island, overtopped by the
loftier mountains of the main, was in view at a distance of thirty
miles; and coasting along it we entered the straits and came to
anchor by nightfall. The land is broken and lofty, and beautifully verdant: the eastern shores next the sea presenting, as we
sailed along them, alternate stretches of white sand beach and
projecting promontories of rocks crowned with woods. There is
not a sufficient depth of water for a frigate to pass through the
channel, and the entrance for large ships is by the north end of
the island.  It is winding, and with the mountains of the island
and the main on either side, presents the features of a magnificent harbor rather than the appearance of an arm of the sea.
WNe were delighted with the varied outlines and general beauty
of the whole, in contrast with the scenery of the Plata, though
but few evidences of civilization are visible; a small habitation
here and there along the shore, being the only indications of the
presence of man.
The next morning the whole surface of the water, glassy as a
mirror, was dotted two or three miles south of us with the canoes
of fishermen; their white hats, shirts, and drawers contrasting
strongly in the early sun with the black sides of their canoes.
WTe were some miles from the customary anchorage, and the presence of so large a ship as the Congress even, attracted no attention from them, and brought no canoe with the milk and eggs and
tropical fruits for which we were longing.  Soon after breakfast
we ran some miles further south to our present anchorage just
inside of two forts, one-that of San Jose —on the island, and the
other-that of Santa Cruz-on an islet of the same name near
the main.'The panorama surrounding us is truly beautifulapproaching, in some respects, even that of Rio de Janeiro,
though less wild and sublime in outline. The lofty and massive
mountains on the main, jutting down to the water in bold promontories, indent the shore with little white-beached coves whose




SCENERY AT SANTA CRUZ.                  211
overhanging cliffs -are crested with palm-trees and festooned with
creepers.  The white dwellings of the inhabitants, sprinkled
along the shore, and the checkered cultivation of the uplands
behind, combine in furnishing attractive imagery to the eye and
associations of rural comfort and simplicity to the heart. The
symmetrical outlines of the old fortresses on either side, and their
moss-covered and grass-tufted parapets and ramparts, give an air
of antiquity to some points of the scene, while the primitive
canoe of the aborigines, under paddle or rude sail on the water,
tells us significantly of a state of semi-civilization only. With the
brightly gleaming sun of the morning, there was a freshness and
elasticity of atmosphere, welcome and most exhilarating.
The present acting American consul of St. Catherine resides
at Santa Cruz, the name of the anchorage at which we are. His
name is Cathcart, formerly the master of an American whaleship, but now long a resident of this part of Brazil, where he
married a native of the country, and has a family of children,
and extensive possessions in lands and slaves.
His residence is nearly abreast of us on the main, a mile or
more distant.' It is situated on an elevated platform above the
beach, in a beautiful little cove, with a glen in the rear: the
whole overhung by a wooded mountain. I availed myself of the
first opportunity of visiting the shore, and aqcompanied Purser
W —— and Lieut. R — who went on duty.  Mr. Catheart was
on the beach to receive us and conduct us to his house.  With
the exception of this structure —which is of stone, stuccoed, and
whitewashed, and roofed with tile-every thing here, in general
aspect, is so like the South Seas, that I felt as if suddenly transported there, and again amidst the scenes and places so familiar
and so dear to me twenty years ago.  The palm-tree, tossing its
plumed branches in the wind, the broad leaves of the banana
rustling in the breeze, the perfume of the orange blossoms and
cape jessamine, the sugar cane and coffee plant, the cotton bush,
the palma christi and guava-the light canoe upon the water,
and the rude huts dotting the shore-=all hurried me in imagi



212              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
nation to the Marquesas, the Society and the Sandwich Islands.
As the Consul proposed returning to the ship with us our stay
was but short. I, however, accomplished my purpose of a ramble for half an hour. This I found quite sufficient for the time.
The hills descend so abruptly at all points to the water, and are
so furrowed with ravines, that one can proceed scarcely a hundred
rods in any direction along the shore, without making ascents
and descents of such steepness, as soon to induce fatigue, and
make a short walk go far in point of exercise.
Large ships cannot approach nearer to the port and city of
Desterro than the anchorage of Santa Cruz; a distance of twelve
miles. The day after our arrival, a party of officers made a
trip to that place in one of the ship's boats; and on the 4th inst.
I joined another, by a similar conveyance. The morning was brilliant, with a cool and bracing air.  There was no wind, but with
ten stout and willing oarsmen we made good progress, though the
tide, for a portion of the distance, was against us. Two beautiful
wooded islets lie midway in the straits, or bay, as the water —twelve
miles in length and from three to five in width-appears here to
be. The largest of these has a battery planted on the north end,
the site of which is scarped from the solid rock, about half the
height from the water line to the summit of the islet.  With the
exception of this battery, and two or three buildings connected
with it, the whole is one mass of foliage interspersed with boulders
of granite. We rowed closely along its western side, and were
charmed with the freshness of the verdure and the variety and
richness of its growth; especially in the drapery and festooning
of parasites and creepers. As we approached our destination we
fancied a striking resemblance, in the formation and general aspect of the western side on the mainland, to the section of the
Hudson lying between Tarrytown and the entrance to the Highlands. This led to a comparison of the scenery of the straits in
general with that of the Hudson. Beautiful indeed as this St.




CITY OF DESTERRO.                   213
Catherine is, all who had seen both, admitted a close rivalry at
least on the part of the other.
A promontory of the island projecting far eastward into the
straits, cuts off the view of the town from the north-excepting
a church tower or two over the land-and gives to the water the
appearance of being land-locked.  It is not till sweeping through
a narrow channel past the bluff point, you find yourself in a
horse-shoe bay,-a half mile perhaps in diameter, with the city
encircling its sandy beach.
The view of the town is striking, as, on doubling the point, it
opens thus abruptly to the sight. It contains eight thousand inhabitants.  It is prettily situated on the widely curving shore,
and, facing the straits southward, is flanked on the east by lofty,
verdant, and overhanging hills.  A double-towered church, rising from the centre of the city, and a spacious snow-white hospital,
crowning a terrace on the eastern side, are the most conspicuous
of the public buildings.
A small platform of plank on piles, forms the landing for the
boats of the shipping; but the canoes of the country are generally run upon the beach.  There was a cleanliness about this, and
in the market-place adjoining, truly welcome in Brazil, and prepared us to be most pleasantly impressed with the general aspect
of a spacious, unenclosed scquare-like the green, or common of
a New England village-upon which we immediately entered.
This lies close by the water and in the middle of the town.  The
principal church or cathedral, whose towers we had seen over the
land, ornaments it on the north side. It stands upon a terrace platform, having circular enclosures on either side, filled with plants
and shrubbery, and overtopped by two or three graceful palms,
and an Australian pine. On the west side near this, is the palace
or Governmental House, occupied by the President of the province; the dwellings of two or three wealthy citizens; and a
hotel near the water.  From the balconies of the last, the party,
who had preceded us the day before, were beckoning to us a welcome.  The establishment is in charge of an American from New




214              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
England, married to a native of the place. It is more homelike
in general appearance and better kept than any public-house
we have seen in South America, excepting the Hotel de Provence
in Buenos Ayres.
As it was my purpose to return to the Congress the same
evening, there was little time to search for objects of special
interest, if indeed there were such; and I contented myself with
a walk through and around the place. The streets are laid out
with regularity, but are ungraded and pass over hill and through
hollow, according to the original surface of the ground. The
buildings stand upon them at irregular distances from each other;
and many having gardens and yards about them, the whole has
a village-like aspect, not indicative of the amount of population embraced within the boundaries of the town. The people seem kind
and well disposed; are simple in their habits and courteous in manners. Though my dress furnished no badge of naval service, or
distinctive mark of my profession, yet, recognized as a stranger, I
was every where saluted as such with the greatest deference and
respect. I had been told that a new cemetery, situated on a hill
oil the western side of the bay, commanded a fine general view of
the city and surrounding country. Under the impression that I had
reached this, I passed through a fine gateway, and by a flight of steps
to a terrace walk, but at once perceived that I was in the grounds
of a private residence, and was retreating to the road again, when invited by some attendants near to enter and stroll over the place at
my pleasure. This I did. It was tastefully laid out in lawns and
flower gardens, and abounded in fruit.  On expressing thanks to
the Portuguese gardener when taking leave, he added to my obligation by presenting a choice bouquet, with an offer of oranges
and other fruit ad libitum: adding, that the signor, his master,
would have been happy to receive me had he been at home, and
would be pleased at any time with a visit from me.
The day was exceedingly fine, and my ramble of an hour and
more in the suburbs, over smooth paths and through hedge-shaded
and flower-scented lanes, was most grateful after the dreary mo



ARTIFICIAL FLOWERS AT DESTERRO.                215
notony of the scenery in the Plata and the tedium of long confinement on board a ship.
The females of Desterro are celebrated for their skill in the
manufacture of artificial flowers from feathers, beetle wings, fish
scales, and sea shells; and an arrival of strangers in the place
causes the doors, and halls, and rooms of the hotel to be thronged
with negroes and negresses, bearing tray-loads and boxes of these
articles for sale. Many of them are tasteful and ornamental;
especially those formed from the polished wings of the beetle.
Those of fish-scales wrought into necklaces, armlets, wreaths and
bouquets are also pretty; and, were the material not known, would
appear costly.  The first of these I ever saw were worn by a
bride at Montevideo; the effect by candle-light was much that of a
set of pearls, which I at first supposed the ornaments to be.  A
coarse but serviceable thread lace, is also a manufacture of the
place. The chief article of commerce is coffee, that of St. Catherine being of superior quality.
At 3 o'clock we sat down to a profusely spread table d'hote,
one of the most tempting public boards I have seen since leaving
the United States, consisting of a variety of fish, oysters, lobster,
different kinds of meats, chickens, turkey and birds, cooked and
served in American style. The bread was excellent, and upon it
alone, with the delicious fresh butter from the German settlement
of San Pedro d'Alcantara, twenty miles distant in the mountains
on the main, I could have made a most satisfactory repast. The
interest of the feast was enhanced by some intelligence communicated in regard to the chief attendants on the table: the head
waitress was no less a personage than a Princess Royal of Cabinda, eldest daughter of the monarch of that style, and niece of
" King John," chief of the Kroomen. She is a fine intelligentlooking woman of thirty years, whose mien and general bearing were by no means unbecoming the rank she held in her native'
land.  Another of the servants was a male slave of the same age,
full of activity and spirit, and seemingly very cheerful and happy.
By industry and economy, and the gratuities lie has received, for




216              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
civility and fidelity in his situation, he has laid up the amount of
his purchase-money, with the exception of a small sum.  He
expects soon to be free; and, having caught a spirit of adventure and enterprise from the many of our compatriots, who of
late years have touched at St. Catherine's for refreshment on their
way to California, designs pushing his fortunes in that golden region-an example of adventure, in purpose at least, almost witlhout
parallel, I am told, among the Brazilians of Portuguese blood.
While the whole world has been excited to enterprise by the
modern discoveries of gold, not a vessel, I learn, has been fitted
out from Brazil in quest of fortune in this way, and scarcely a
Brazilian tempted to join the thousands who have touched here
and at Rio on their way to California.
The next day I joined Commodore McKeever and his secretary in a stroll on shore at Santa Cruz.  Captain Cathcart met
us on the beach, and, becoming our cicerone, first led us up a
romantic little glen in the rear of his dwelling, by a well kept
pathway overshaded with orange trees and palms, and bordered
by coffee-plants and bananas. It followed the course of a murmuring and babbling mountain stream, which fretted its way over
a bed of rocks, and beneath and around massive boulders of granite. The pathway itself was sufficiently attractive to have induced us to take the walk, but there was, as we found, a special
object for pursuing it. It leads to the graves of two sisters of
the ages of fifteen and seventeen, daughters of Major Gaines,
Governor of Oregon, who died here a year ago on their way to
that territory, after a few days' illness with yellow fever, contracted during a brief stay at Rio.  Their sudden death, within
a day of each other, in the opening bloom of youth, and their
burial by the wayside, as it were, in a strange and undesired
land, with the many affecting incidents related to us connected
with the event, threw a touching interest around the spot, and
caused us to linger with deep sympathy near their graves. They
lie side by side within a small, picketed enclosure, where the rose
and willow and other appropriate growth, planted by the hand of




WALKS AT SANTA CRUZ.                  217
the Consul, are already spreading in tropical luxuriance.  They
are said to have been intelligent and accomplished, and full of
the buoyancy and hope of young life.  The bereavement under
the circumstances must have been desolating to the parents, and
their burial on these strange shores a most affective trial.
After the examination of a mandioca and coffee plantation,
and of a fruit yard, we strolled over a spur of the mountain to
an adjoining cove in which Captain Cathcart formerly resided,
and which is still his possession.  His former dwelling is converted into a school-house for his own children and those of two
or three of his neighbors.  The tutor, a young Brazilian, is employed by the Consul at his individual expense.  The books and
school apparatus were most primitive, and limited to the merest
elements of instruction; still, the scene presented by the assembled group of scholars and their young teacher, had more of promise in it for the future, than any thing before met in this region.
I spent yesterday morning in going over the same ground
with Captain McIntosh, who had not previously been on shore.
We extended our walk across two or three additional ridges of the
hills, which feather down from the mountains to the water, and
break up the shore, by their projecting points, into numerous little
coves encircled by interval lands and bright glades. In these
chiefly are nestled the humble cottages of the poor, in single dwellings or in hamlets of three and four.  The views from the sidehills above are varied and beautiful, and ever bring with them to
me strong associations of the South Seas.
In the afternoon, accompanied by Dr. C~  and one or two
others, I took a walk northward from the consulate, first across a
natural meadow running inland a half-mile from the beach, and afterwards, by a mule-path, over a steep and thickly-wooded hill of the
primitive growth-the whole mountain of which this is a spur, densely covered with wood, presenting in many points masses of foliage
of great richness and beauty.  Our walk terminated at a clearing, where preparations were making for the erection of a shanty
of small timber, wattled at the sides and ends, preparatory to
10




218              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
being filled in with clay. The scene reminded me of parts of
Otsego near Cooperstown in my boyhood, where the felling, and
logging, and burning of trees by the first settlers were in progress.
The timber here, however, is by no means so tall and heavy as
the white pine and old hemlock of that region, and appears to be
exclusively of hard wood. We saw, at too great a distance to
admit of examination, two flowering trees with blossoms of most
brilliant hues; and were afterwards shown at the consulate a
branch of an azalia, loaded with flowers of the purest white variegated with bright cherry color.
I must not omit to mention the very unexpected recognition
of each other, by Captain Cathcart and myself yesterday.  After
taking leave of him  the evening before, I said to Dr. C(-,
" The oftener I see the Consul, the more I am persuaded I have
met him before: it must have been at the Sandwich Islands."
A similar impression it seems was on his mind; and he remarked
to a party of officers, as the boat in which I was, shoved off, " I
am sure I have known Mr. S~  somewhere; but I have not
been out of Brazil for twenty years-it must have been when I
was whaling."  To this, one replied, " it may have been at the
Sandwich Islands, when Mr. So was a missionary there." " A
missionary! is it possible that this Mr. S-  is the same: now,
I know all about him. I remember him well; the first time I
was on shore he invited me to church, and though I was an entire stranger to him, only a boat-steerer, he took me afterwards to
dine with him and his lady." This being repeated to me, gave
identity to my own reminiscence, and led to a very cordial greeting the next morning as old friends.
My last walk, in this short visit of a week, was taken this
afternoon, in company with Commodore McKeever and Dr.
C  -. It was on the island. We landed at one end of a long
curving beach, beneath the rocky bluff which is surmounted by the
dilapidated fortress of San Jose, now dismantled and abandoned.
After enjoying the view from its parapets, we followed a path
leading up the ridge of the hill, till we gained a lofty point of




DANGEROUS WALKING GROUND.                219
rock, commanding a wide stretch of country to the eastward not
in view from the ship. A part of this, embracing a circuit of
many miles, was level. It appeared to be well fitted for the culture of rice, much of which is grown in St. Catherine, but apparently is unredeemed; a vast jungle in a state of nature, without indication of an inhabitant.  The evening was very fine,
and the air so exhilarating, that we skipped and jumped from
rook to rock, amidst bush and bramble, with a freedom we would
not have ventured had we known what we afterwards learnt, that
the spot is noted for the venomous reptiles with which it abounds,
Of these we saw none, however, and indulged in our gymnastics
without fear. Indeed, I have not seen a living serpent or reptile of any kind since I have been in Brazil: not a scorpion, and
but one centipede, and that in a ship-chandler's in Rio de Janeiro.
On our return we passed, near the beach, grove after grove of
orange trees, so laden with fruit that the ground beneath was covered, as in an apple-orchard at home, after the trees have been
shaken in the gathering season.




CHAPTER XIX.
REIO DE JANBIRO.
June 20th.-On entering this port on the 16th inst., we all
felt anew the exciting influence of its wild and magnificent scenery,
and were constrained again to pronounce it unrivalled, by any
thing seen by us in any part of the world.
The last report of the health of the place which had reached
us at Montevideo, was favorable.  The yellow fever, after having
prevailed a second season as an epidemic, was said to have disappeared. Our apprehensions on this point were excited for a
time, however, as we came in, by perceiving the man-of-war
anchorage to be entirely deserted. In place of three or four
different squadrons, English, French, Brazilian, Portuguese and
American, riding at their moorings, like a flock of water-fowl, not
a solitary ship was discoverable: nor was there a sign of movement of any kind, on the whole bay.  This we thought ominous
of bad news, but happily without just cause. The first boat
from the shore, assured us of the good health of the port.  Whatever malaria may exist has lost its malignancy, and exhibits itself
only in cases of imprudence and special exposure, in the milder
types of intermittent fever. It is the winter season, or period at
which the sun has reached its farthest remove in this latitude,
and all nature is in double freshness and brilliancy.  The coloring
of the skies in the mornings and evenings is beaitiful: this is




WINTER WEATHER AT RIO.                  221
especially the case after sunset, when at times a golden and vermilion glory has filled the west with a splendor I do not recollect
to have seen surpassed. The effect of this upon the pinnacled
rocks and precipices of the mountains-brought into bold relief
by the shades of the hour-and upon the promontories and islets
of the bay, the church and convent towers, and the leading
architecture of the city, is gorgeous. This was particularly the
case, an evening or two ago, while Dr. C —- and I were enjoying
a stroll over Gloria Hill.  Our progress was arrested by it: and
after standing for some time in silent admiration of the picture
presented, from the elevated terraces in front of the church, we
joined in the exclamation, "' no words in our own or any other
language can describe such a scene: painting itself could do no
justice to it! "
The temperature now, even at mid-day, is not too hot for exercise, the mean height of the thermometer being 730 Fahrenheit.
The weather resembles that of the finest in June at home; the evenings and nights, however, are cooler. This is the general character
of the weather from March to September; and nothing in climate
can be finer. During the rest of the year, the heat, with the
mercury at mid-day at 90~0, is oppressive and debilitating.
We have renewed our acquaintance pleasantly with Don Juan
and Do~na M —, and are disposed to regard the simplicity of
mind and heart, evidenced by them, the kindness of their
manners, and the cordiality of their hospitality, as characteristic of the people of the country in general; and to believe that
they would be manifested to all foreigners of respectability, as
readily as to us, under circumstances to call them into exercise.
Our friends of Praya Domingo, however, make no secret of the
fact that our nationality is a strong recommendation to them.
Both profess great admiration of the United States as a nation,
not from what they have seen of its citizens-for we are the first
and only Americans they have known-but from what they have
heard and read of our history and condition, and the practical
working of our institutions.




222              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
I have taken but one new walk: this was through the valley of
the Larangeiras, in company with Captain McIntosh and Dr.
C —-. Much as I had often admired its general features, in passing through the open street of the Catete, from which it branches
westward to the mountains, the heat of the weather, and its distance from the ordinary landing, prevented a visit to it. It is a
half mile, perhaps, in width at the entrance, but soon becomes
only a narrow glen, terminating at the end of a couple or more
miles, beneath the steep sides of the overhanging mountain. A
fine carriage road winds through it, crossing and recrossing
repeatedly a sparkling mountain stream, which brawls and babbles and murmurs, from side to side. It is charming throughout: so quiet and secluded, so embowered and rural, so fresh
in atmosphere and luxuriant in growth, and so varied in the
architecture of its dwellings, from the ornamented villa and
sculptured palace, to the simplest and most humble of cottages.
The orange and coffee tree, the banana and other broad-leaved
vegetation of the tropics, cluster thickly around; and are overshadowed by the loftier growth of the magnificent mango, the
towering palm, the feathery foliage of the tamarind and acacia,
and here and there that of the thorny cotton-tree or Bombax, with
its trunk and limbs well guarded by the defences which give to
it a descriptive name.
Roses and jessamines, and brilliantly flowering creepers; the
gay hybiscus, the thick-set bloom of the purple bignonia, and
the gorgeous glare of the poinsetta, meet the eye at every turn,
and fill the air with sweet perfumes. In contrast with our imprisonment on board ship at Montevideo, it was a luxury scarcely
appreciable by others, to stroll amidst such imagery; with an
occasional glimpse, through an open gateway or the ornamental
railings of an enclosure, of the fountains and grottoes, the alcoves
and bowers, the gravelled walks and tesselated pavements, the
busts, the statues and statuettes, which embellish the grounds of
those "rich in this world's goods."
Near the head of the valley, a winding pathway on one side




LARANGEIRAS OR ORANGE VALLEY.                223
leads up the acclivity by steep ascent, to the line of the aqueduct, fifteen hundred feet above the level below. One section of
this is peculiarly beautiful. It overhangs the valley, and embowered overhead, reminded me forcibly and pleasantly in many
of its features-with the exception of the tropical growth-of the
gravelled terrace of the old road at Cooperstown, which leads to
the " Mount Vison " of Cooper's Pioneers.  In a secluded nook
near by, is the residence of the British minister: an irregular
cottage, buried in shade, and vocal with the murmurings of watercourses.  After passing this, as we gained height after height,
and looked down with bird's-eye view, the Larangeiras and its
surroundings seemed, in the lights and shades of the hour, like a
sketch in fairy land.
The fatality in the city, of the late epidemic, has led to the
construction, recently, of great numbers of residences along the
spurs and sides of the mountains. One of these is just finished,
near the point at which we reached the aqueduct. The site is
superb; and, while resting from the fatigue of the sharp ascent,
we greatly enjoyed the magnificent prospect of both land and sea
which it commands. From this point, the descent of five miles
along the aqueduct to the city is so gradual, for the greater part
of the way, as to be almost imperceptible.  For two miles the
pathway is a lofty terrace, cut in the face of the mountain for the
course of the aqueduct, from which, beneath overhanging trees,
you look up on one side, upon steep rocks and wild woods, and
down on the other, as from the parapets of a lofty castle, upon
a succession of views of cultivated and surprising beauty. Indeed, the whole walk seemed to me like that through a picturegallery of magnificently drawn, and gorgeously colored landscapes.
The aqueduct does not follow a straight line, but runs zigzag, at
long, obtuse angles.  The pathway is beside it, and in following
its course, new and varied vistas, both before and behind, are
constantly presented.  The massive masonry, and finished workmanship of the time-marked, and moss-covered old structure,
contrast strongly in their aspect of civilization, with the wild



224              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
ness of the overhanging cliffs and forests, while in many places,
the gay coloring of the endless variety of lichens and orchid-,
which cover it, gives to the surface the appearance of richly
variegated marble.
Before we reached the city, the shades of the evening had
gathered around us, as deeply as the moon near her second. quarter
would allow. Many of the objects around and above us, were
thus brought in bold outline against the sky. This effect was
particularly beautiful, where the palm or cocoa-nut tree spread
its long and graceful plumage, in dark masses upon the light
beyond.
The last striking picture which met the eye as we descended
the hill of Santa Theresa, was that of a family, grouped in an
arbor of roses and honeysuckle, canopied with clustering bignonia, on the angle of a wall twenty feet above our heads, silently
enjoying in the twilight the last fannings of the sea-breeze, while
from. the towers of the convent close by, the vesper bell sent
forth its silvery sounds in invitations to prayer.
June 26th.-It is to the Romish Church that we are here
chiefly indebted for every thing in the way of spectacle.  Two
principal feast days have occurred within the week past: that of
Corpus Christi on the 19th, and that of St. John the Baptist on
the 24th inst. The fete of Corpus Christi was observed with
great display.  It was instituted by Urban IV., six hundred
years ago, in honor of the then newly adopted doctrine of transubstantiation, and consequent adoration of the host. Its legendary
origin is traced to Juliana, a nun of Liege, who, while looking at
the full moon, saw a gap in its orb, and by peculiar revelation
from heaven, learned that the moon represented the Christian
Church, and the gap the want of a festival for the adoration of
the body of Christ, in the consecrated wafer.  This she was to
begin to celebrate, and to announce to the world. The authorization of the festival by papal bull, was induced by the following
miraculous incident. While a priest, who did not believe in the
change of the bread into the body of Christ, was going through




FESTIVAL OF CORPUS ChRISTI.                225
the ceremony of benediction, drops of blood fell upon his surplice, which, when he endeavored to conceal them in the folds of
his garment, were formed into bloody images of the host. His
scepticism was thus overcome; and the bull of Urban, authorizing the adoration, was published.  This occurred in 1264, and
the bloody surplice is still shown at Civita Vecchia as a relic!
In Rio de Janeiro, as in all papal countries, Corpus Christi
is a chief festival in the year.  Its celebration was commenced
at the dawn of day, by a general peal of the bells from every
church and convent tower, by the booming of cannon along the
shores, and the hissing and crackling of rockets in the sky.
Flags were every where unfurled; draperies of silk and satin, of
gold and silver tissue, of damask and velvet of every hue, were
displayed, from the windows and balconies of the houses in the
principal streets; and the windows of the palace ornamented on
the outside with rich hangings of crimson damask.  High mass
was performed in the imperial chapel at 11 o'clock.  This was
now opened for the first time, after having been for a year undergoing a thorough renovation, by regilding. and new painting in fresco.
The effect is rich and chaste.  On either side of the nave, between
the entrance and the transept, are the shrines of the apostolic
saints, above which hang paintings of each, with the accustomed
emblems of their individuality.  " The Supper," by a master,
ornaments the altar of a side chapel at one end of the transept,
and a beautifully executed and classically draped effigy of St.
Julian in wax, in a sarcophagus of glass, adorns the other. The
altar-piece of the grand altar covers the entire end of the chapel
within the chancel. The subject is the assumption of the Virgin. The royal family of Portugal-at the time of the immigration-in attitudes of adoration, occupy the foreground: the
Queen mother, John VI. and his wife, Carlota of Spain, and
Don Pedro I., then a lad, being the chief figures.
The imperial body-guard in state dresses, with halberds at
rest, early formed in lines on either side of the nave from the
entrance to the transept. The intervening space, newly car10*




226               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
peted, was in reserve for the ministers of state, the officers of
the household, and other dignitaries of the Empire.  A procession of these soon made its appearance from a vesting-room coinmunicating with the palace, and opened in file along the nave for
the passage of the bishop and his ecclesiastical attendants to
the chancel, and of the Emperor, who followed them, to a canopied throne near the high'altar.  The Empress and her ladies
had already entered the imperial tribune facing the throne.: The
bishop was in full prelatic dress, wearing his mitre and bearing
the gilded crosier emblematic of his office.  When the chapel
was thus filled, the coup d'ceil presented a brilliant scene in the
masses of rich embroideries in gold; the jewelled decorations of
the dignitaries of state; and the court dresses of the different
classes of the aristocracy. These last were chiefly of velvet in rich
hues, lined with white silk-purple, maroon, mazarine and sky
blue, light and dark green, and here and there a suit of the same
of plain black.
The orchestra was full, and embraced the best performers of
the opera company, both vocal and instrumental. As the service
proceeded, the varied attitudes and groupings in the chancel and
at the altar, of the officiating priests
" Glaring in gems and gay in woven gold;"
the floating incense; the harmony of the duo, the trio, and the
quartette; the touching strains of the solo; and the burst of the
full chorus, could scarcely fail to impress the  senses.  And
when added to this general effect, at the elevation of the host
each halberdier, with battle-axe reversed, dropped on his
bended knee; every courtier bowed his forehead to the ground;
the bishop humbled himself at the steps of the altar, and the
Emperor kneeled on the platform of his throne; the whole tableau was one most striking in its dramatic show. Externally all
was a profoundness of adoration, which, directed spiritually to
the Godhead, would have been irresistibly impressive; but




CORPUS CHRISTI AND ST. JOHN'S DAYS.            227
addressed to a mere wafer, and to be regarded as gross idolatry,
it was both painful to the mind and saddening to the heart.
Long before the termination of the mass, a procession was
marshalled in front of the chapel in the palace-square, awaiting the addition from  the church of the ecclesiastics and the
court, before moving through some of the principal streets.  The
leading group was unique; and apparently the most attractive
part to the surrounding crowds. It consisted of a colossal effigy
of St. George, in knightly armor, mounted upon a splendidly
caparisoned charger from the Emperor's stud, led by a groom in
oriental dress. An armor-bearer in black mail, and other attendants in characteristic costume, formed the suite; while a dozen
led horses in housings of green cloth, stiff with the imperial arms
in massive silver, completed the cortege of the pasteboard saint
All else in the show was purely ecclesiastic, with a great display of
the varied costumes and emblematic devices of the Romish
Church. At the end of the religious service, the dignitaries, both
of Church and State, fell into the line, and were followed by the
host, borne by the bishop beneath a fringed and tasselled canopy
of cloth of gold, one of the gilt supporters of which was held
by the Emperor with uncovered head.
Don Pedro, wherever seen, bears inspection well; and carries
with him as much of the impress of his station as any monarch I
have seen.
There was no public procession on St. John's day, but its
approach was heralded by a great setting off of rockets and other
fireworks the night previous, and the glare of bonfires in different
parts of the city. These were seen with fine effect from the ship;
especially the rockets, with the dark mountains for a background. The evening following was observed in a similar manner: altogether like the night of the fourth of July at home.
At every respectable-looking house, fireworks of more or less
elaborate workmanship were displayed; rockets of all descriptions
were shooting in brilliant corruscations through the air; and illuminated balloons sent up, while colored lamps, thickly clustered




228              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
upon the convents crowning the hills, flashed through the darkness like diadems of diamonds.
Jzuly 2d.-On a former visit at Rio, I gave you some account
of the Foundling Hospital and Female Orphan Asylum, in connection with the marriage of an eleve of the last. This is the
second of July, the fete day of St. Elizabeth-that on which
the asylum is open to visitors, and on'which, usually, the marriages of such of the inmates as are under engagement take
place.  The Emperor and Empress were among the visitors today, and sanctioned by their presence the marriage of four couples
in the chapel. The anniversary had been fixed upon, for throwing open to public inspection a new building for the Hospital of
the Misericordia, of which both the Foundling Hospital and
Orphan Asylum are appendages.  I improved the opportunity
to pass through the wards of the sick.  These were in the
most perfect order and neatness. Every possible provision seemed
to be made for the care and comfort of the inmates; and the
whole establishment gave evidence of fulfilling the benevolence
of its design.
The practical benevolence of the Romish Church is exhibited
in no form more general and commendable, than in the care which
is taken of the poor and the sick.  Rio abounds in hospitals for
these. Some are connected with convents or monasteries, and
others are separate and independent institutions.  They are
founded and sustained by incorporated societies, corresponding in
their general features with the voluntary organizations with us at
home for philanthropic and charitable purposes, but here called
brotherhoods.  These are of various names; that of the Misericordia or "'House of Mercy," is the largest and most wealthy,
and owes its origin, nearly three centuries ago, to the piety and
benevolence of the celebrated Jesuit, Anchieta. The hospital is
situated on the bay beneath Castle Hill. Its doors are open at all
hours, night and day, to the sick of both sexes, of all religions
and of every country and color, without any form or condition of
admittance: all receive gratuitously the ablest medical attend



HOSPITAL OF THE MISERICORDIA.               229
ance and the best nursing and care. The numbers of its patients
amount to thousands yearly, the proportion of deaths occurring
being about one-fifth of the whole received.
The original building is old, and has been long insufficient in
its dimensions and convenience, for the numerous applicants for
relief. A new structure has been for ten years and more in progress on an adjoining site. A large section of this, two-thirds of
the whole plan, is now completed, and was opened to the public
for the first time to-day.  The edifice is a noble structure.  The
facade on the street of the part finished being four hundred feet.
It is four stories in height, and is surmounted, in the centre, by a
finely proportioned and symmetrical dome.  The whole presents
the finest architectural feature of the city, in the approach
from the sea.  The interior throughout is palace-like.  The plan
is admirably arranged for ventilation and light, and embraces
every modern improvement for the insurance of cleanliness and
purity. The structure is quadrangular. The parts already finished enclose two spacious courts, beautifully laid out in walks
intermingled with flower-gardens and shrubberies, as places of
exercise for the convalescent.  Each is ornamented with a fountain; when the building shall be completed, corresponding courts
on the new part are to be added.  The perspective through the
long corridors and the lofty wards, which communicate with each
other the whole length by folding-doors, is exceedingly fine:
indeed, the whole structure is a credit to the civilization of the
age, and is a splendid monument of the munificence and benevolence of the Brotherhood of Mercy.
The institution embraces a department for the insane.  For
the separate accommodation of such patients, another imperial-like
structure is in progress and nearly completed, on the beautiful
bay of Botafogo. It already attracts the eye of the stranger
entering the port, more than any other object in the surrounding
panorama.  Of this the Emperor has been a principal and munificent patron.
The possessions and funded capital of the Misericordia are




230               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
very great.  The dying bequests of the charitable, in money and
in real estate, for the long period of centuries, with the advance
of value in property, make it one of the most richly endowed institutions of the Empire, and insure perpetuity to its worthy and
Christ-like charities.  Membership is secured by the payment of
an initiation fee and an annual subscription: this guarantees the
right to a support in sickness and in poverty, and to the religious
services of the church in burial.  Members to the brotherhoods
are received at any age, even that of the merest childhood. On one
occasion, I witnessed the ceremonies of an initiation to the fraternity of the Carmelites. It took place with much ceremony in the
church of the order. A very large number were received, and included boys from the ages of five and six years to full manhood.
Assembled in the sacristy, each placed over his ordinary dress
a cape or mantle of silk, the badge of the order on occasions of
ceremony, and each receiving from the appointed officers a consecrated amulet, a girdle of patent leather, and a rosary, walked
in procession to the grand altar of the church. The whole building was in high decoration, with a superb display of gold and silver plate on the altar, and of reading desks of solid silver in the
chancel.  The dresses of the officiating priests, and the officers of
the society, were new and rich; and the music of the first order.
The ceremonies of the initiation consisted in verbal pledges on
the part of the novitiates, anointings, crossings, sprinklings with
holy water, and perfuming with incense, and were followed with
showers of rose-leaves scattered widely from silver salvers, over
the newly received.
July 22d.-The principal incident of the last few days has
been a wedding, on the 20th, in the family of iMr. R —, the
bride being Miss R —, his daughter.  The marriage took place
at the residence of Mr Me, the maternal grandfather of the
lady, who holds a chief place among the merchant princes of
Rio. It is situated seven or eight miles westward from the city,
beyond the valley of Engenho Velho, beneath the mountains of
Tejuca. Our colmmander-in-chief, to a seat with whom I had been




COUNTRY-SEAT OF MR. lV-.                   231
invited, is a man of great simplicity in his habits of life, and
averse to any thing like display in his movements.  The appearance, therefore, of a showy equipage with four horses-as the carriage which he had directed to be in waiting at the landing-took
him quite by surprise, and led to an order immediately for the
dismissal of two of the animals; but to this the coachman objected
so strongly, with the assurance from his master that the four
would be found necessary before reaching our destination, and
that no one ever drove to Mr. M's with a single pair, that
the Commodore was obliged to submit.  So, ordering his valet,
who happened to be in attendance, to mount to his place-that
there might be some keeping in the turn-out —we were off with
a whirl, four-in-hand.
The drive, for the greater part of the way, was the same we
had made in our visits to the country-seat of Mr. Rl. While
yet a couple of miles from our destination, we had full proof of
the desirableness at least, of having four horses to the carriage.
Though there has scarcely been any rain for a fortnight past, the
road through the flat valley, in a soil of stiff clay, became so
heavy that it was difficult for the four to save us from being fixed
in the mire, in which the wheels at times were sunk to the hubs.
In due time, however, we reached the stately gateway, by which
the broad domain of Mr. M — is entered.  This is a semicircular structure of white marble, with massive gates and railing
of cast iron in rich patterns: erected at a cost of more than seven
thousand dollars.  The drive from  this to the house is a broad
avenue of closely planted mango trees.  The mango is one of
the noblest of what may be called the civilized trees of the country, in contradistinction to the natives of the forest.  In its loftiness, roundness of top, wide-spread limbs, and thickset foliage
of deep green, it resembles the black ash of the Middle States,
more than any tree familiar to you, which occurs' to my recollection at the moment: the general outline is perhaps more spreading.
It is the season of its blossoms, though these are not yet in full
display.  The flowers come out in spikes, like those of the horse




232              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
chestnut, and rise thickly over the whole tree. Their color, while
now yet in bud, varies from a light pea-green to a brownish red,
the general effect being like that of the common chestnut when
in bloom; when fully blown, however, the flowers are white.
These, when close at hand, contrast beautifully with the dark
green of the leaf; but, at a distance, present an almost indistinguishable mass of whiteness.
The want of neatness and good keeping in the grounds of
Brazilian country-houses is observable, even in those of Mr.
M —, though his residence is quite a palace, and his wealth
estimated by millions. The mansion is of stone, massively built,
and about eighty feet square.  The general height is two stories,
but a central section, having an ornamented pediment and entablature, rises to three.  It is in the Italian style, with balustrades
around the flat roof surmounted by marble vases filled with aloes.
The facade in extent and in general effect reminds me of the
President's house at Washington.  A spacious portico with tesselated pavements, leads into a lofty hall, from which a staircase
with a double flight of steps conducts to the drawing-rooms, on the
second floor. The principal rooms of the ground floor are a dining-hall, ball-room, music-room, and chapel. The views are beautiful.  That in front commands the entire plain, filled with the
country-houses of the rich and their surroundings, the spires and
towers of Rio, and the mountains across the bay, in the distance;
and that in the rear, a great variety of wild mountain scenery, in
primitive luxuriance and solitude, close at hand.
WVe were among the first to arrive, but were quickly followed
by a large company, among whom were many richly attired ladies.
Rich and fashionable dress is here peculiarly a passion with the
sex; and I was told by a gentleman present, when speaking on
the subject, that a lady would not think of moving in general
society in Rio, without an allowance for the toilette of at least
two thousand dollars a year.
The groom being an Englishman, the marriage as a civil contract had taken place early in the day, at the British Consulate:




SCENES AT A MARRIAGE.                 233
he being a Protestant also, while the bride is a Roman Catholic,
the religious rites were twofold —Romish and Protestant Episcopal. Contrary to the usage at home, the bridal party joined
the general company in the drawing-rooms while the guests were
assembling.  When all expected had arrived, Mr. M I, the
grandfather, who in the Romish ceremony was to give away the
bride, approached, and taking her by the hand, led the long procession to the private chapel below. The service was performed
by the priest of the Parish, who is also the family chaplain, in
the sacerdotal robes of his grade.
It was in the Portuguese language, and much abreviated, we
were told, from the fact that one of the parties was a Protestant.
Immediately after the benediction, when the parties had been proclaimed man and wife, female servants in the rear of the chapel
scattered from baskets of silver, over the bride and her party, as
she turned from the altar to meet the embraces of her friends,
handfuls of freshly gathered rose-leaves and orange-blossoms.
The effect, as fluttering lightly through the air they fell in thick
showers on the group and the whole company, was poetic and
pretty.
The Protestant ceremony, conducted by the Rev. Mr. Graham,
Rector of the British church in the city, took place immediately
afterwards in the principal drawing-room, a magnificent apartment, with hangings and furniture of crimson damask and decorations of gold. The closing scene here, in place of the shower
of rose-leaves and orange-flowers of the chapel, was the tableau
presented by the bride kneeling on a rich footstool in the midst
of her bridesmaids, receiving with bowed head and tearful eyes
the touching blessing with which the Episcopal rite ends.
The marriage-feast, of sixty covers, was served in the ballroom, a lofty hall with decorations in white and gold.  The entertainment, in the display of china, glass, and plate, and of flowers in vases of Sevres manufacture; in ornamental confectionery,
and the profusion of luxurious viands, was all that wealth in its
liberality and taste in its artistic exercise could command.




234              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
On shipboard, two incidents of more than commonplace interest have occurred since my last date. One is the departure for
the United States of Lieut. IR    in ill health from the effects of
the climate. In this, the wardroom mess and the ship sustain a
great loss. He is one of the most interesting young men I have
known in the service. Firm in principle, cultivated in mind, clear
in judgment, prudent in action, and accomplished in his profession,
he exhibits great symmetry of character as an officer, while the
frankness and polish of his manners, and the warmth of his affections, make him attractive as a companion and dear as a friend.
My last interview with him before he left the ship was most
gratifying to me, from the assurance it gave, that to the many
other attractions of his character there would be added, immediately on his arrival home, that of openly avowed membership
with the Church of Christ.  Nothing during our cruise has imparted to me such unfeigned satisfaction: indeed the result of our
conversation on this subject, was a joy I cannot well express.
The other incident was of a painfully different nature: one
of those outbreaks, which, so long as strong drink holds its sway
over so many seamen, no precaution or vigilance can, at all times,
effectually guard against on board a man-of-war. For a long
time the Congress has been under the most favorable auspices in
regard to discipline and general good conduct. Contentment,
cheerfulness, and ready obedience, seemed to be the prevailing
feelings of the crew. But, on the evening of the 18th inst., just
as the last guests of a party-similar to that of which I gave an
account in October, had left the ship, it became known that
liquor in large quantities had been smuggled on board, and that
many of the men were intoxicated.  Sixty or seventy were soon
beyond all self-control, and, maddened by rum, were most insolent
and insubordinate to the officers who attempted to restrain them.
In the darkness of the deck, it was difficult to distinguish the
ringleaders; and after these were secured in double irons, they
made the rest of the night hideous, by their boisterous profanity
and drunken ribaldry.




A REPROOF TO DESPONDENCY.                    235
The investigation of the matter showed that the' dinkey,' a
small boat used as a tender by the messenger-boys and servants in
communicating with the shore, had inadvertently been left afloat
astern, in place of being hoisted from the water as usual, before
dark. One or two of the crew made their way to this, and succeeded in bringing off from the shore, liquor sufficient to have
intoxicated the whole ship's company. It was freely offered to all,
but sixty or seventy only would partake of it; a fact speaking well
for the mass in contradistinction to the few. Still, such an
outbreak, though limited to a small number, and those the veriest
vagabonds on board, is disheartening to those who believe in the
practicability of maintaining the discipline and good order of a
ship, by a rule of kindness.
The consequence of this conduct was a kind of quarantine of
the ship the next day; no boats were allowed to leave for the
shore, and both officers and men remained on board. It was Saturday, and I had not sufficiently recovered from  the shock before
the Sabbath, to throw off a despondency in regard to any high
results from the preaching of the Gospel to such hearers, or to
overcome a feeling that I was speaking but to the wind.  There
is never a want, however, of the listening ear; and I felt reproved
for my unbelief by the first chapter of the Bible read at the
service, in which occurs the declaration:
" As the rain cometh down, and the snow from heaven,
And returneth not thither,
But watereth the earth,
And maketh it bring forth and bud,
That it may give seed to the sower, and bread to the eater;
So shall my word be that goeth forth out of my mouth:
It shall not return unto me void,
But it shall accomplish that which I please,
And it shall prosper in the thing whereunto I send it.
Instead of the thorn-shall come up the fir tree,
And instead of the brier-shall come up the myrtle tree.
And it shall be to the Lord for a name,
For an everlasting sign, that shall not be cut off."




236                 BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
I was the more impressed with this reproof to my despondency, on returning to my room, by accidentally falling upon a
paraphrase of the same truth, in the following verses:
" Ye who think the Truth ye sow
Lost beneath the winter's snow,
Doubt not Time's unerring law
Yet shall bring the genial thaw.
God in nature ye can trust:
Is the God of grace less just?
Workers on the barren soil,
Yours may seem a thankless toil;
Sick at heart with hope deferred,
Listen to the cheering word:
" Now the faithful sower grievesSoon he'll bind his golden sheaves."
If the Almighty have decreedMan may labor, yet the seed
Never in his life shall grow,
Shall the sower cease to sow?
The fairest fruit may yet be borne
On the resurrection morn!"




CHAPTER XX.
MONTEVIDEO.
September 30th.-New aspects in the political affairs of the
La Plata, led to the return of the Congress to this place, early
last month.  Previous to our departure from Rio de Janeiro,
the U. S. steamer Susquehanna, bearing the flag of Commodore Aulick, of the East Indian squadron, arrived there, bringing as passengers, the Hon. Mr. Schenck, charge d'affaires at
the court of Brazil, and the Hon. Mr. Pendleton, commissioned
with the same office to the Argentine Confederation.  This last
gentleman came to Montevideo in the Congress, on his way to
Buenos Ayres.
The French Government not having sanctioned the articles of
pacification, agreed upon by Admiral Le Predour and General
Oribe, a year and more ago, the armistice between the belligerent parties on shore is terminated.  Hostilities are again commenced by the interchange of occasional shots between the outposts, and now and then a slight skirmish, in which a few persons
on both sides are wounded, and sometimes one or two killed.
The change would be comparatively of little importance, as
to the promise of any speedy issue, were it not for simultaneous
movements connected with it, on the part of Brazil on the one
side, and two of the principal States of the Argentine Confederacy
-those of Entre-Rios and Corrientes-on the other.  By refer



238               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
ence to an atlas, it will be perceived that the chief rivers, whose
confluent waters form  the Rio de la Plata-the Uruguay, the
Parana, and the Paraguay, corresponding in their extent and
their importance to the broad valleys through which they flow
with the Ohio, the Missouri, and the Mississippi of the Northern
Continent-have their rise in Brazil, and, in their course, border
her territories for long distances. The free navigation of these is
essential to her interests. One chief object in the policy of Rosas,
however, has been to keep them closed to all foreign commerce,
that the trade of the confederacy might centre exclusively in
Buenos Ayres; and thus to enrich and aggrandize her, at the sacrifice of the interest both of Brazil and of the sister republics of
the confederation.  All negotiation on the part of the court of
Brazil, to secure free access to the interior of the Empire by the
tributaries of the Plata, having proved abortive, that government has determined to try the effect of arms.  General Urquiza,
the President of the States of Entre-Rios and Corrientes, long
the principal coadjutor of Rosas, and the most successful and
distinguished of his soldiers, weary of his tyranny, and opposed
to his narrow-minded affd selfish policy, has entered into a compact with Brazil to aid in the accomplishment of her purpose.
The first object to be attained is the overthrow of Oribe, and
the consequent relief of Montevideo from siege; and thus to lay
the basis for a joint attack on Buenos Ayres. Urquiza, with a
force of fifteen or twenty thousand Entre-Rians and Corrientans,
is approaching in one direction; and the Baron Caxias, having an
equal force of Brazilian infantry and artillery, in another: while
a squadron, consisting of a frigate, two sloops of war and three
steamers, under the command of Admiral Grenfell, has arrived
from Rio, and is at anchor near us.
This determination of Urquiza, as the governor of two of the
principal Argentine States, and the public measure. by which it
was avowed, have led to a striking proof of the mendacity, by
which it is charged that Rosas has hitherto sustained his despotic
sway. It is said, and with no little show of truth, that his whole




DEFECTION OF URQUIZA.                  239
system of government-notwithstanding the boasted patriotism,
disinterested and self-sacrificing toil in the public service, which
the press and archives of the confederacy printed by his order and
under his immediate personal control, attribute to him —is but
a cunningly devised tissue of deception and falsity.
For years, it has been the custom of Rosas formally to tender to the representatives of the confederation, the resignation of
his office as Minister for Foreign Affairs, pleading to be released
from it, on the grounds of the great burden of the charge, his
advancing age, broken constitution, and declining health. This
is invariably followed by the most laudatory and fulsome panegyrics, from the leading members of the House, upon his character-the value of his past services, and the necessity of their continuance, and the unanimous resolution that he shall still fill the
office: it being well known that not a member dare-even if he
had the secret will —to move or second the acceptance of the proffered resignation. The Archivo Argentino, or Government Register, printed in English, and French, and Spanish, and sent widely
over the civilized world, is filled with the record of these political
farces.  This year, however, Urquiza, as the President or Governor of Entre-Rios and Corrientes, promptly accepted the resignation; and by public proclamation, released Rosas from. all further
charge of the foreign relations of those States.  The address of
Rosas to the House of Representatives, in view of this defection,
has just been issued. It is strikingly characteristic of the man,
and is a curiosity, both as a literary production and a document
of State. As such, I furnish it to you entire, though not responsible for the translation; that is by'authority,' and is taken
from the official print.
The first two lines of the motto it bears are the prescribed
caption of every official paper, from the most important to the
most trifling; and are stamped on the badges, hitherto universally
worn by the Argentines. The third line is an addition just decreed.  The terms," Unitarian" and "Federal," designate the
original parties in the confederation; the first being applied to




240              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
those who are in favor of a consolidated government, similar to
that of the United States, and the last to those who advocate
that of the compact at present existing. Under Rosas, the Unitarian party became outlawed and in effect exterminated.
LONG LIVE THE ARGENTINE CONFEDERATION!
DEATH TO THE RUTHLESS, LOATHSOME UNITARIANS!
DEATH TO THE INSANE TRAITOR, THE RUTHLESS UNITARIAN
URQUIZA!
PALERMO DE SAN BENITO, Sept. 15th, 1851Year the 42d of Liberty, 36th of our Independence, and 22d of
the Argentine ConfederationTo the Honorable House of RepresentativesMESSIEURS REPRESENTATIVES:To command the Republic during a long period of agitation
and social disorder; to save the country from fratricidal war; to
accompany it in the glorious defence of its liberties; and contribute to preserve it from the ambition of the destructive and
treacherous band of ruthless unitarians, was the eminently honorable mission that the Argentine people imposed upon me, and
which I gratefully accepted with the enthusiasm and love due to
my country and to my fellow-citizens.
After a memorable epoch, in which was assigned to the Argentine Confederation the glory of consolidating its independence,
overwhelming its enemies; and to the undersigned, the distinguished honor of presiding over it; after the Republic had suppressed internal anarchy and was in the enjoyment of peace, developing its elements of prosperity, I considered the moment had
arrived to resign the supreme command, to which I had been exalted by the spontaneous, reiterated suffrage of my countrymen,
-and I earnestly requested you to appoint another citizen as
my successor.
You refused to admit my fervent prayer-the inhabitants of
this province also opposed it with kind firmness, and exercising the
right of petition, begged your honors to persist iri not acceding
to my repeated tenders of resignation; and the Provinces of the




ADDRESS OF ROSAS.                  241
Confederation, expressing their wishes through their Honorable
Legislatures and Governments, likewise exacted, with generous
interest, my continuation at the head of the national affairs, as
the means of insuring the present happy condition of the Republie, and of preparing for it a glorious future.
Overpowered by such decision, and so much benevolence;
oppressed by a deep-felt gratitude toward the Argentine Federals,
yet destitute of words becomingly to express those feelings, I presented to your honors, to my fellow-citizens, and to the confederate provinces, the homage of my most ardent and profound
acknowledgment-I recognized with veneration the immense
debt which the magnanimous vote of the republic imposed upon
me, but unwilling to sacrifice to grateful emotions the sacred
interests of my country, I continued vehemently yet respectfully
to demand from your honors and the confederate provinces a successor, who, unbiassed by the scruples arising from my republican
views, could co-operate more efficaciously than myself, to the
aggrandizement of our dearly beloved country.
The tranquillity which the Republic experienced, the union
which prevailed throughout its provinces, the wisdom with which,
ameliorating its institutions, it expanded the resources of its welfare, and the external peace which its loyal, upright and generous
policy towards all nations foreshadowed, indicated to me that the
moment had presented itself for resigning the command, without
injury to the nation.
Animated by so cheering a conviction, I insisted in my fervid
renunciation before your honors, and the confederate Provinces,
believing that my prayer, the sincerity of my words, and the
cogency of my reasons, would duly influence the minds of the
Argentine people, and induce them to accede to my separation
from the supreme authority.
But while I expected this, and the undisturbed state of the
Republic warranted me to entertain such ~a hope; at this very
moment, the insane traitor, the ruthless unitarian Urquiza, raised
the standard of rebellion and anarchy. Aspiring to sever, with his
11




242              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
degraded sword, the bonds that unite the people of Entre-Rios
to the confederation, and to constitute himself the arbiter of the
Argentines, he ignominiously sold himself to the Brazilian Government, that, persisting in its obstinate ambition, has invaded and
attacked, with unprecedented treachery, the territory and the
Independence of the Republics of the Plata.
In so solemn a crisis for the Argentine community, when its
loyal sons, displaying, as at all times, their renowned valor, rise
in arms to resist and chastise their enemies, avenging so many
and such scandalous outrages; when they prepare themselves with
sublime self-denial for the most honorable efforts, I have received
a new declaration from the Confederate Provinces, that peremptorily demands my continuance in the supreme command, and of
which you will be informed by the correspondence that I will
have the honor of presenting.
And since the nation so demands it of me, in such critical
moments for its tranquillity; since in the presence of violent foreign aggressions, and an unexampled rebellion, my compatriots
request me to accompany them in the post I occupy, to defend
our independence and national honor; since the Republic, exasperated by the audacious hostilities of the Brazilian Government,
and the treason of the ruthless Unitarians, prepares to retaliate
the war which they have precipitated; at so notable an epoch I
cannot refuse, nor do I refuse, honorable Representatives, my
continuance in the Government, provided your honors, ily compatriots, and the Confederate Provinces consider that it may be
useful and necessary to the national welfare.
Consistently with my principles, my obligations, and nmy reputation, I cheerfully defer to the call of the Republic in the actual
circumstances, and thus continuing in the supreme command, I
also will have the signal honor of accompanying my beloved federal compatriots, in their heroic resolution of vindicating the
national independence and glory, attacked by the perfidious Brazilian Cabinet, by the ruthless, loathsome Unitarians, and by the
despicable insane traitor, the ruthless unitarian Urquiza.




RETREAT OF ORIBE.                    243
In accordance with this determination, I therefore present
myself, in the same manner as the loyal Argentines, resolved to
fulfil once more my reiterated pledge, of sacrificing all in defence
of the order, the liberty, and the honor of the Confederation.
My fellow-citizens, who have always found me participating
in their difficulties, will now find me the same, with sound and
robust health, and always consistent with those principles. They
will see that, if when the Republic enjoyed peace and tranquillity,
I desired to withdraw from the supreme command, to continue
my services in some other subaltern post, where I might have
performed them to advantage, now that new enemies of the Confederation appear, and that the loathsome band of the ruthless
Unitarians, headed by the insane traitor, ruthless unitarian
Urquiza, dares to raise its bloody standard, here I am, ready at
the call of the nation, and with energy equal to my duties, and
to the hopes of the public, willing to contend in union with the
virtuous Argentine Federals, till we have left triumphant and
consolidated, the independence, the rights, the dignity, and the
future fate of the nation.
This, Messrs. Representatives, is the resolution.lj have adopted in view of the present events and circumstances.
And desiring ere now to transmit it to your knowledge, I had
the honor of announcing it verbally to the Honorable President,
and to one of the deputy secretaries of your honorable Corporation, requesting the former, on reporting it to the Honorable
Representatives, at the first session they might have, to reiterate
to them my profound gratitude.
God preserve your honors for many years.
JUAIN 3ANUEL DE RosAs.
October 6th.-Affairs on shore are rapidly approaching a crisis.
Oribe, who led his troops westward some days ago, to meet the
advancing force of Urquiza, has been driven back into what has
been so long his besieging camp; and, cut off both from the interior and the river, he is virtually the besieged instead of the




244               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
besieger. Deserted already by some of his troops, who have
joined the advancing enemy; limited in the supply of provisions
for those who remain; and daily more and more closely encircled,
he must speedily capitulate, or fall in an unequal conflict.
The external aspect of the region about the Mount is completely changed. Instead of the utter desertion which has hitherto marked it, without a sign of man or beast over its whole
extent, it now exhibits every where the animation and activity of
a bee-hive.  A detachment of Urquiza's cavalry, in charge of
vast herds of cattle for the subsistence of his army, has taken
possession of the Mount; and their horses, tethered and grazing,
are passing up and down its sides, from the beach to the little fortress on the summit, and run straying about in every direction.
The intervening heights of the country, are crested with
mounted videttes, almost within gun-shot of the encampment and
batteries of Oribe, as if the force of which they are the advance
guard was already in battle array; presenting, through a glass,
picturesque and striking objects, as they stand with poised lances
and fluttering pennons, in strong relief against the sky.  It was
confidently expected, from the general appearance of things, that
an assault would take place last night; but it passed without
any thing more than a random shot occasionally from a musket,
and now and then the booming of a great gun.
During the long siege of nine years, a large town, numbering
eight or ten thousand inhabitants, has grown up in the vicinity
of the encampment of Oribe.  It is called " Restoracion," in
reference to the object of this chieftain-the restoration of himself to supreme power, or the restoration, as he may consider it,
of peace and prosperity to the Republic. It is a port of entry,
with an open roadstead, called the Buceo, five miles east of Montevideo.  The greatest consternation prevailed there at first, when
Oribe, breaking up his encampment, marched forth to meet Urquiza, with orders for his whole force to follow: leaving Restoracion entirely unprotected. It was industriously rumored that the
departure of his troops would be the signal for an attack by the




VISIT TO THE MOUNT.                  245
soldiers of Montevideo, with liberty from their commanding officers of pillage and rapine. Representations of this were made
to the various foreign squadrons here, and a vessel of war from
each was despatched to the Buaeo, to afford protection to any of
the inhabitants who might seek an asylum, by flying to them.
The alarm, however, has in a great degree subsided, from the return of Oribe, and a proclamation by the Government of Montevideo, with orders under the severest penalties, against every act
of aggression and violence by the soldiery in case of the occupation of the place by them.
The Mount being now, for the first time since our arrival in the
Plata, free of access without an apprehension of risk or annoyance
of any kind, Captain McIntosh gave Dr. C —  and me a row
in his gig to visit it. It was a great treat to ramble freely over
the hitherto forbidden ground, and from the summit to command,
at a single glance, the topography of the whole country for miles,
as if it were a map before us: all, too, robed in the fresh and bright
green of the opening spring. The general surface of the region
in view here, as indeed throughout the republic, is a rolling prairie.
Covered now with vast herds of cattle and droves of horses, and
the rude encampments of the liberating army, in bivouac here
and there in the distance, it reminded mle much of some of Catlin's pictures, illustrative of scenes and scenery in the Buffalo
and Indian regions of the far West.  Oribe's encampments and
defences, with the town of Restoracion and its port, were in distinct view in the east, over and beyond Montevideo.  There was
less appearance of immediate hostilities, than on the day previous. An armistice of twenty-four hours for negotiation, had
been agreed upon. The videttes and reconnoitring parties had
been withdrawn, and the detachments of troops in sight were
dismounted, and lounging about among their grazing horses and
cattle. Some two or three hundred German troops, mercenaries
in the employ of Brazil, who had arrived by water, were on, the
beach immediately beneath us, in entire readiness for marching
-their baggage-carts and other appliances of war prepared for




246              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
immediate movement.  They are a fine-looking corps; young,
healthful, and fresh, enlisted in Holstein with the expectation of
remaining in the country as settlers.  The day was bright and
beautiful, and the excursion of an hour or two, exceedingly
pleasant.
October 10th. —The pacification hoped for, has actually taken
place, by the unconditional surrender of Oribe, with his entire
force, amounting to some fifteen thousand men to Urquiza.  This
occurred on the 8th inst., and was officially proclaimed throughout
the city the same evening. The ringing of all the bells of the
place, the firing of cannon and musketry, the setting off of rockets and the glaring of bonfires, assured us on board ship of the
reality. The next morning the whole city seemed but a floating
mass of flags, thrown to the breeze from every pinnacle and housetop, exhibiting all the colors of the rainbow, in the devices of
every civilized banner; English, French, and American, Austrian, Prussian and Sardinian, Peruvian and Chilian, Dutch, Montevidean and Brazilian.  Captain McIntosh took me early on shore
with him.  A suspension of all business, and the general holiday
of a week, had been proclaimed by the government; and the people both within the city and without, were half mad with joy.
And well might they be, after nine years of non-intercoursethose within, pent up for that length of time in the narrow limits of their walls and fortified lines, and those without, cut off
from all communication with the town. The consequence has
been a general rush of men, women and children, from the town
to the country, now in all the freshness and bright verdure of
spring; while the outsiders, so long excluded, have hastened with
like eagerness, if not in equal numbers, to the streets and squares
of the city. The scene presented was one of great and sometimes touching excitement, in the meeting for the first time in
years, of those bound to each other in the closest ties of relationship. Husbands and wives, parents and children, brothers and
sisters, lovers and friends, who had been thus separated, rushed
into each other's arms in the open streets. An American lady




SCENES AFTER THE PACIFICATION.             247
told me she could never have imagined such a spectacle; and
could scarcely do any thing for the day, but stand in the balcony
of her house, alternately in laughter and in tears, at the scenes,
comic and tragic, taking place around her.  The enjoyment of a
pic-nic seemed the prevailing passion of the citizens. Whole families were met by us in numbers setting off on foot, with baskets
of refreshments, attended, in some instances, by servants bearing
side-saddles for the ladies; horses being procurable outside, not
for the hire of a day only, but in full possession at a price of
one or two dollars. Some of the riders, we were afterwards told,
were placed in rather an' awkward predicament, however, after
having proceeded some distance on their new purchases, by having the animals reclaimed and seized by their true owners, the
soldiers from whom they had been bought having stolen them.
It is a subject for devout thankfulness, that thus far this important change has taken place without an instance, so far as is
known, of violence or outrage. Those, who, a week ago, were
ready to cut each other's throats, are embracing as they meet, and
rejoicing together, that for the time being at least, " the sword is
turned into the ploughshare, and the spear into the pruning hook."
There are, however, among those who have unconditionally capitulated, twenty or thirty officers who are trembling for their lives.
One of these, who is particularly obnoxious to the Montevideans,
as a deserter from  their service to that of Oribe, reached the
American consulate just as we entered. Partly in disguise, he
had ridden at full speed through the streets, and dashing, without
dismounting, through the open portal into the inner court, threw
himself on the mercy of the consul for the protection of his life.
He feared that to be recognized would be but to die by the
hands of the first one of the citizens who could lay hold on him.
He is a fine-qooking fellow, and was splendidly mounted, but was
in a tremor of agitation.
In the course of the morning, I took a stroll some distance
beyond the city gates, and found abundant subjects for observation in the endless variety of costume, colors, and character ex



248               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
hibited by the outsiders-civilians and soldiers, men, women and
children, who were thronging to the city in great numbers; all,
of course, on horseback, for in this country even the beggars are
mounted. In many instances, it is true, two persons rode the
same horse; in some cases three; and in one even four-a man
and his wife with each a child in their arms: the entire family,
it is probable, thus seeking a glimpse of the city. The imost
amusing spectacle of the kind I noticed, was a cavalier quite
dashingly equipped, with a goodly-sized live hog tied to the saddle
behind him, in the manner of a valise in travelling.  The head
of the animal-quietly submissive to his destiny-hung down on
one side, and the nether limbs on the other, while the equilibrium of the whole was preserved by a firm grasp of the captive's tail in the left hand of the rider!




CHAPTER XXI.
3MONTEVIDEO.
October 18th.-Yesterday, in company with Lieut. T —— of
the Congress, and Mr.Z-, Consul for the Hanseatic towns, I
made a visit to Urquiza, the chieftain of the Plata. whose star is
now so much in the ascendant.  His head-quarters are at Pantanoso, where his troops are encamped three leagues westward from
the city.  By the raising of the siege, horses are once more to
be obtained in Montevideo.  Mr. Z — was nobly mounted
upon the fine animal, on which the officer from the outside, mentioned under the former date, dashed through the portal of the
American consulate the first day of the pacification.  Mr. Hamilton had succeeded in procuring a passport to Buenos Ayres for
him; and, purchasing his charger, made a present of it to MIr.
Z —, his son-in-law.  Lieut. T —   and I were provided with
aninals at a livery stable, just opened, to which we walked
to make our choice.  The keeper, who, himself, acted as hostler
and groom for us, is no less a personage than an authenticated
Austrian baron, of an old family among the nobility of the
empire; and who, reduced in fortune, is ashamed to beg, but not
thus to occupy himself for an honest livelihood, in a foreign land.
It was from him I now received mly first lesson in the horsemanship of the country; being instructed to guide my Rosinante, not
by pulling the rein of the bridle on the side I wished to turn
11*




250              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
him, as with us, but by keeping both reins of an equal length in
the hand, and touching the neck of the animal with that opposite
to the direction he is to go.
The weather was delightful. In the early morning the sun
threatened to be hot; but afterwards a veil of gauze-like cloud,
without shading too much the brilliancy of a day like June at
home, prevented any discomfort from it. After clearing the line
of the city walls, perceiving it to be low-water in the bay, we
struck down from the ordinary road, to the hard sand of the
beach, which sweeps in wide curvature in the direction of the
Mount, and dashed off on a full gallop across it. Parties of native horsemen were scampering in both directions over the same
ground, looking —with their ponchos and long hair streaming inthe wind behind them-as wild and picturesque as so many Arabs
of the desert.
At the end of a mile we turned up the bank into the highway. This is wide, level, hard and dry, with hedges of aloes and
cacti on either side. There is scarcely a tree of any kind to be
seen; but now and then a fruit tree, a row of trim poplars, or a
clump of weeping willows just in full leaf, reminded us of home.
This was especially the case with the willows, the first graceful
wave of their fresh, long branches, setting me down at once beneath those at Riverside. The soil seemed to be of great richness,
a black mould which bears every growth in exuberance.  I never
saw fig trees equal in height and spreading tops, to those passed
in one enclosure.  Evidences of the long civil war were every
where seen in the ruins of houses, and in deserted grounds; but,
occasionally, we came to a quinta or country-seat, still in good
repair, whose massive gateways, tesselated courts, balustraded terraces, surmounted by vases filled with air-plants and gay flowers
gave proof of the taste and elegance which once characterized
the suburban residences of Montevideo.
We now came upon an open country, without hedge or enclosure of any kind.  The whole surface was covered with rich verdure, brightly enamelled by ten thousand flowers of every hue,




ENCAMPMENT OF URQUIZA.                  251
and fragrant with the perfumes of spring.  As we caracoled
gently along, or, again, following the custom of the land, dashed
forward at full speed, groups of people, peasants and soldiers, on
foot and on horseback, were passing and repassing; and not unfrequently clustered thickly around the dark and dirty entrances of
the pulperias, or grog-shops, which here, as elsewhere where man is,
are ever to be found-the whole presenting, in features and in form,
in costume and in colors, a constant study for the sculptor and
the painter.
The region of country around the bay-along the shores of
which we still continued-is well watered; and we crossed two
or three streams in the course of our ride. As we ascended
from the bed of one of these to the general level, we came in view
of another, along the gently rising banks of which, on either side,
lay stretched in irregular detachments three or four thousand
troops. This encampment, in all its appointments, had a most
primitive and unscientific aspect. The tents, such as they were
-very much of a gipsy character-did not appear sufficient for
the shelter, in sleeping and in bad weather, of half the number of
soldiers; and the whole equipage of the camp was as rude as that
of so many Indians.  The predominance of scarlet in the color
of every thing appertaining to it, imparted, however, a gay and
brilliant air to the whole. A park of artillery, planted on a gentle swell of ground, commanded the approaches, and had more
the appearance of modern warfare than any thing else attracting
the observation.
On inquiring for head-quarters, two or three tents were
pointed out on a knoll, on the opposite side of the rivulet, quite
separate from the general encampment. A company of lancers
were clustered irregularly at no great distance in the rear of
these-their long and effective-looking spears, with a scarlet pennon floating from the top of each, being staked in lines in front
of them.
As we approached, we perceived the marquee of the commander-in-chief to be distinguished from the rest, by broad stripes




252              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
of white and blue, and by the artistic manner in which it was
pitched. Behind it stood an immense vehicle, more massive and
ponderous in its structure than the heaviest omnibus ever seen at
home-the travelling carriage of his excellency, evidently fitted
for hard service, by such bracings with raw-hide ropes about the
springs, whipple-trees and axles, and such bindings of green hide
around the hubs and spokes and wheel-tires, as would create a
sensation in a civilized country. Near by, stood a gigantic cart
with wattled sides, and a roof fifteen or twenty feet in height:
the baggage-wagon, doubtless, for the needful provender of the
general-in-chief and suite.
When we drew up, we were approached by a noble-looking acdjutant, tall and stalwart, with boots to his hips, a steel-scabbarded
sword, which might have served for a Goliath, and spurs of massive silver, that-in want of marbled pavement or plankedl floor
for the effect-caused the very ground beneath him to rattle. My
companions, having made known their official character and our
nationality, and the desire of paying our respects personally to the
chieftain, we were politely requested to dismount, our horses delivered to the charge of the guard, and our cards taken, preparatory to an announcement.  Immediately on the presentation of
our names, we were conducted to the front of the tent and ushered into the presence of the general.  He rose to receive us
with courteous salutations, and a cordial shake of the hand. The
tent was small, but exceedingly neat. Its poles were bamboo,
that in the centre which raised the canvas to a peak, being surrounded by a square camp table, on which lay a round black hat
with the scarlet band of the confederation, a pair of black kid
gloves, a riding-whip, and a magnificent bouquet of fresh flowers
-a propitiatory gift, probably, from some fair hand in the neighborhood.  Three tent bedsteads- one on either side and one at
the farther end-one or two camp stools, and a square of ingrain
carpet on the grass, constituted the furniture.
We became seated on the bedsteads at the sides, while Urqcuiza
took a position by the table in the centre.  I-e was in a milita-ry




PERSONAL APPEARANCE OF URQUIZA.              253
dress coat of blue, the collar and cuffs being handsomely decorated
with embroideries in gold of the oak leaf and acorn. A waistcoat of scarlet damask, pantaloons of blue with a red stripe down
the seams, and well polished boots, completed his costume. He is
of moderate height, but stout, broad-chested, and finely formed,
and has a Spanish roundness of face and limb.  He was smoothly
shaved, and without the moustache usually worn here, both by
military men, and by the people in general. In feature, he is
decidedly handsome, with fine mouth and teeth, large, dark eyes
full of vivacity, and a complexion clear and glowing with manly
health, but bronzed by exposure.
His expression is open and frank-one that a physiognomist
would trust for honesty and magnanimity; and his manners and
address courteous and gentlemanly, without being courtier-like or
artificial.  I know not when I have been more favorably impressed on a first interview, with any one, either in public or
priv'ate life. Personally, he is evidently one to be admired; and,
if his character, morally and intellectually, is at all in harmony
with his physical advantages, I can readily perceive how the
popularity he has already won, in the part he is now acting, may
run into enthusiasm.  He must be nearly fifty years ofage; but,
were it not for the thinness of his hair on the top of the head, I
should say he was not more than forty.
A favorite mastiff, a noble-looking animal, lay stretched at
his ease on the carpet, and attracting our notice became the first
subject of our conversation. He originally belonged to another officer; but, on meeting Urquiza, left his master and attached himself
to him with a pertinacity which resisted every attempt to drive
him away. He has constituted himself the especial guardian of
his person, and has for years been his companion, night and day.
Several remarkable anecdotes, of feats in the camp and on the
battle-field, told of him, paved the way for a free and animated
conversation on more important topics-embracing the present
state of affairs in the Republics of the Plata-the results thus
far, of Urquiza's own movements as a liberator, and purposes




254              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
designed by him, yet unachieved. "' It is time," he justly remarked, " that the contracted and narrow-minded policy, dictated
by the selfish views of the rulers of the Plata, should be made to
give way to measures more in unison with the spirit of the age;
and that the wide rivers and rich plains of these magnificent
countries, should be thrown open to the commerce, and be made
free to the immigration of people from all nations."
The hope was expressed, that when he should reach Montevideo-where it was taken for granted he would make a public
entry-he would visit the Congress; but, before the word Montevideo was well uttered, he hastily interrupted the sentence by
exclaiming, "' Montevideo!-No-no, I shall not go to Montevideo! "  He, it seems, studiously avoids every appearance of
courting popularity, and of making a display of himself unnecessarily; averring that the only object for which he comes into the
country, is to free the Montevideans from the thraldom of the
tyranny by which they have so long suffered.  Having accomplished this, he says he has nothing further to askl or desire, except that they may be prosperous and happy, united and free.
The early career of Urquiza as a partisan of Rosas, and as the
victor over the Montevideans themselves, in the beginning of the
invasion by the Argentines, is said to have been as bloodthirsty
and cruel as that of any of his compeers, in the civil contentions
of the States of the Plata. But great apparent humanity, as
well as consummate policy, has thus far marked all his present measures and movements.  In the beginning of his march
against Oribe, he proclaimed the anxiety he felt to prevent all
effusion of blood; that he came as a friend, not as a foe; that his
mission was one of peace and of patriotism in a common cause.
The consequence of this annunciation in advance, was a general
gathering to his standard in his progress, and the desertion to
him, at every opportunity, of whole detachments of the troops sent
to oppose him. On expressing the surprise which we felt at
being told by him, that the thousands of soldiers immediately
around, and constituting his only guard, were exclusively those




HIS FAMILY RELATIONS.                 255
who, but a few days before, had laid down their arms to him, and,
who till then were commissioned to cut his throat —he said" VWe are all brothers now —one people and one blood: it only remains for us to free our common country from a common tyrant,"
referring of course to Rosas.  The nearest detachment of the
troops brought with him from Entre-Rios was quite two miles
distant.
At the end of a half hour, we took leave, greatly interested
in all we had seen and heard during the interview. As a rigid
moralist, I am bound perhaps to qualify, in a degree, my admiration of this chieftain, from the knowledge I have gained of some
of the particulars of his private history. An inquiry made by
one of our party, led the General to say, that though he had no
wife living he had a large family; and that the mother of some
of his children, having recently died, he regarded himself as a
widower. The truth is, he has never been married. It is by no
means unusual for persons here to live long together without the
marriage-tie, and often with entire fidelity to each other. It is to
a relation of this kind he referred, and in which he had a numerous family born to him; but he admits the claims of paternity in
a large number besides; and so justly, it is said, that the title
of the novel,' A child of thirty-six fathers," may with a slight
transposition, be applied with literal truthfulness to him, as
" The father of thirty-six children"-the exact number, I am
told, of his acknowledged offspring.  So much for this chieftain
for the present; we shall doubtless hear much of him, and perhaps meet him again, before taking a final leave of the Plata.
Oribe has been permitted, since the capitulation, to retire on
parole to his country-seat, situated on the shore of the bay, in the
neighborhood of his former encampment.  Lieut T —- and I, as
neutrals in the partisan conflicts of the country, felt some disposition to call upon him in his reverse of fortune; but the
antipathies of Mr. Z —-, arising from a knowledge of his history
and character, and the long endurance of evil by the Montevideans
at his hands, would not permit him to join us in a visit of the




256               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
kind. As condolence under capitulation and overthrow would
have been more difficult to present acceptably, than the felicitations
we had just addressed to the fortunate rival, we did well, perhaps,
to content ourselves with the view in the distance of the white
walls of his dwelling, in the midst of extensive plantations of
poplar and willow. If all that is said of his past acts of cruelty
be true, he well merits the reverse he has suffered, and the contempt into which he has fallen.
The ride, on our return, was constantly enlivened as before,
by passers by, both on foot and on horseback, forming a great
variety of groupings, and an endless diversity of costume.  One
common mode of transporting burdens was of a most primitive
kind: a hide spread on the ground, and attached to the saddle or
person of the horseman by a long leathern rope.  Whatever was
to be carried was piled upon and made fast to this simple sledge,
and thus dragged along.
At the end of a couple of miles from  the head-quarters at
Pantanoso, we turned inland for a short distance from the direct
road, to inspect the fort of the " Cerrito " or little hill, so recently
evacuated by Oribe. The rise of ground to it is very gentle
on every side, and the central point of elevation two hundred and
fifty or three hundred feet only, above the level of the bay.  The
little fort cresting the apex is abandoned, except by a single
keeper.  It is old and dilapidated; and defective in its original
construction, in the leading principles of modern engineering. It
appeared incapable of standing a salute by its own guns, much
less the fire of artillery in an attack. The view from the parapets
is extensive in all directions; and, in the freshness and verdure
of the spring, peculiarly beautiful. It embraces a fine inland
view, the Mount, the bay and shipping; the massive walls and
towers of Montevideo; and the new town of Restoracion. At
the base of the hill on the east, lay, in a quadrangular village, the
little huts of mud, thatched with grass, which have for years been
the quarters of the besieging soldiery. They must have been




TOWN  OF RESTORACION.                  257
wretched enough in appearance at any time; but are doubly so, in
their present state of desertion and half demolition.
The ride of a mile from this cantonment brought us to Restoracion. This, till the capitulation, was quite a thriving place, having
attracted, by its port of entry at the Buqeo, the little produce the
country, in its devastated condition, could furnish for exportation.
But its vocation is now gone.  The port is already closed by
decree of the government, and the decline of Restoracion will be
even more rapid than its rise. All business will necessarily flow
into its old channels in the city; and the new town, at best, be
only an impoverished suburb of the old.
It is well laid out: its streets very wide, regular, and well
built. Its chief architectural feature is a very fine structure: a
spacious quadrangle, enclosing double courts, and ornamented by
a lofty tower. It is called " the college;" and was designed by
Oribe for an institution of learning, but appears thus far to have
been used only as a town hall, for the accommodation of the
municipal officers and the police.
This brings me to the comical part of our excursion.  Having
dismounted for the observation of the place on foot, the in-.spection of the building just mentioned, and of a new church of
some merit in its architecture, we again took horse to meet an
appointment for dinner in Montevideo, three miles distant.
We had scarcely reached the centre of the town, however, before
my horse came suddenly to a dead stand.  HIe had travelled
beautifully all the morning, without the slightest evidence of a
stubborn or vicious disposition, or any bad habit. It was in
vain, however, that I now urged him forward.  All the effect of
doing so was to cause him to turn abruptly to the one side or the
other, or completely around; and, when I resorted to the whip
and spur, neither of which had before been required, he dashed
upon the sidewalk to the right or to the left, and rushed headforemost into the shop-doors and windows, putting men, women,
and children to flight in every direction., Of the crowd of boys
soon gathered near, I heard some, by way of commiseration,




258               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
exclaim, "What a wicked horse!" others less courteous, and
with knowing looks as to the merits of the case, " What a poor
rider! " till Lt. T, a Virginia cavalier, insisted on an exchange of animals.  This we made, but without securing a better
issue.  The horse he had ridden behaved in the same manner,
or when started, persisted in dashing round the first corner come
to, and in rushing into the first enclosure or stable-yard open to
him.  I kept him going, however, from point to point, as best I
could-first down one street and then up another; around this
corner and around that-with my friends in full gallop behind,
till all three were brought to a stand by getting between two
walls, which formed a kind of cul de sac. By this time we had
fairly roused the whole place, without gaining the advance of a
rod towards Montevideo, and Mr. Z -    proposed that I should
make the further trial of his horse. The excitement of the chase
after me, the hurraing of the boys, the shrieks of the women, and
the general tumult, had fired the spirit of this fine animal, and
the moment I had gained the saddle, headed in the direction we
wished to go, he started at full speed through the principal street,
while"The dogs did barl,, the children screamed,
Up flew the windows all;
And every soul cried out'Well done!'
As loud as he could bawl."
Finding myself thus well started, I was determined to allow
my steed no chance of a halt in the gait he had chosen, at least
till well in sight of the city, and kept him on the full spring.
MIy friends were in close pursuit; and the nearer they came
the faster I fled, till we well-nigh fell from our horses in convulsions of laughter, at the Gilpin-like appearance of the chase.
Had I worn hat and wig, I should have lost them; and, as it
was, doubtless presented a comical sight, in my efforts at once to
retain my seat in the saddle, and to keep a naval cap on my
head, and the spectacles on my nose. All the amusement, how



GUACHO SOLDIERS IN CAMP.                259
ever, did not centre on me. Mr. Z-  is immensely tall and
slender.  The stirrups of the saddle exchanged with me for his
own, were too short for him by at least a half length. He had
not altered them; and in sitting on the horse, his knees were
brought well up to his chin, making him, at the rate we were
riding, far from the least comical figure of the party.
The cause of this incident in our adventures was ascertained
to be the fact that, till the day previous, the only ho!Me of the
two horses ridden by Lt. T —   and me, had been at Restoracion; and, on reaching their old haunts, they had no will, after
a ride of fifteen miles, to leave them again, even for the more
dignified quarters of the Baron, their new master in the city.
October 22d. —For two or three days past, the troops of
Urquiza, in detachment after detachment, have been thickly
clustering around the base and on the sides of the Mount —like
the settling of flocks of pigeons on the ground, in the migrating
season at home. The whole region in sight from our ship is now
little else than a tented field, so covered with figures in glaring
red as to remind me vividly, by the brilliant coloring thus thrown
over the landscape, of the fields of scarlet poppies I have seen
in somine parts of Europe. The nearest of these encampments is
by the water's edge, within a couple of miles of our anchorage.
Yesterday morning Captain McIntosh invited Dr. C —- and
myself, to accompany him and Captain Corey of the " Southampton " in a visit to it.  The morning was beautiful in weather,
and the opportunity for observation exceedingly interesting.
We landed at a point where, at the commencement of the
civil war, there had been an extensive manufactory connected with
the staple productions of the Republic-hides and tallow. Every
thing here bore evidences of the devastation which has swept over
the whole country in its industrial pursuits: roofless buildings
and crumbling walls, uprooted pavements, overthrown furnaces,
and rust-eaten boilers. Some of the stone enclosures still standing, presented a common but singular sight, in a capping, twelve
or eighteen inches in depth, formed of the horns and the frontal




260              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
bones of cattle, so arranged and interlocked, as to produce, in
their regularity, and in the whiteness into which the whole is
bleached by the weather, quite a striking and picturesque effectas suggestive of taste and beauty in fence building, as the drooping leaves of the acanthus are said to have been in the finish of
the Corinthian column. Beyond the curving sand-beach of a
little cove, a quarter of a mile from  this landing, the nearest
encampment was spread over the bright verdure of a gently
swelling knoll.  The scene presented by it was novel, and
strikingly picturesque. The snowy whiteness of the tents; the
bright green of the grass; and the glowing red of the caps,
mantles, and chiripas, or swaddling blankets, worn in place of
trowsers by the soldiers, were brought out in brilliant contrast
by the morning's sun; while the pennons of scarlet, fluttering
from the tops of the lances, stuck in long lines and in thick
clusters over the ground, gave an air of lively animation to the
whole.
No check was placed on our movements, nor on the scrutiny of
such observations as we chose to make. The uniforms of my companions led to constant military salutes from such as recognized
their presence; and we were treated with unvarying civility.
We were much struck with the physical aspect of these troops.
They are an uncomnmonly fine race; large, muscular, and athletic:
a powerful set of men, whom-perfect centaurs as they are on
horseback —it would be a fearful thing to meet as lancers on full
charge in battle.  They are very dark and Indian-like in complexion; their faces covered with bushy whiskers and mustaches,
and their long, black, uncombed hair flowing in the freedom
of nature over their shoulders.  Occupied in all the various
employments of semi-civilized soldiery in camp, they furnished,
individually and in groups, studies of which an artist would have
rejoiced to avail himself. Some splitting billets of wood for
cooking, some roasting meat, and some eating it at their fires;
some washing their clothes in a rivulet, just by, and some
bringing water from a spring; a few were lounging on the grass




THEIR -PASTIME AND SUBSISTENCE.              261
in conversation, and a few walking listlessly about; but the
greater number —nine out of ten-were gambling with cards.
Seated in numbers, from four to seven, around a poncho spread on
the grass, with the money at stake upon it,. they shuffled, dealt,
and played, while groups of double the numbers, standing around
and over them, threw down their dollars at hazard, and waited the issue of the game.  So entirely were the players and
betters absorbed in their games, that they took no notice whatever
of us as strangers, nor of any thing occurring around them. The
importance of the political struggle now  commenced, insures
good payment to the troops. A large distribution of cash has
recently been made, and the soldiers seem very flush in pocket,
and very free in the disposal of their funds. Card-playing is a
chief amusement, and gambling a ruling passion among all classes
of the people.
The subsistence of the soldiers consists solely of fresh beef:
eaten without bread, or vegetables, or even salt. Morning, noon,
and night, beef, and beef alone, furnishes their repast.  The
manner of cooking it is this.  A  small circular hole, three or
four inches in depth, is made in the ground, and a fire kindled in
it.  A long, slender stick or wooden skewer, sharpened to a point
at both ends, is run through a piece of meat, and one end of the
stick so fastened in the ground on one side of the hole, that the
meat hangs at a low angle over the flame and coals of the fire.
The outside thus soon becomes scorched and burnt, and in a few
minutes, one of the mess removes it from the fire, by taking hold
of the upper end of the stick with the left hand, while his everready knife is in the right. Seizing the meat with his teeth, as lihe
holds it up before him, he cuts off a mouthful by a single quick
stroke of his knife, and passes the skewer and its burden to his
next messmate. Each of the group thus in turn takes his share
of the part roasted. That which remains raw is again placed
over the fire, and a similar process gone through with, till the
hungry are all satisfied, or the supply consumed. We were very
courteously invited by one group, to take seats upon the sheep



262               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
skins spread for them, and to partake of their primitive meal; but
excused ourselves from accepting such kind hospitality, by the
plea of a want of appetite.
The encampment stretched, in greater or less regularity and
compactness, from  the point at which we were, three miles and
more northward, to the head-quarters of the commander-in-chief;
and from thence again westward by the banks of a stream, the
like distance around the Mount to the Plata.  The inspection of
one portion gave us the characteristic and leading features of the
whole; and, after an hour's stroll through the nearer sections, we
ascended the Mount, to enjoy from  the ramparts of the fortress,
the wide landscape they command under its new aspects of animated life. This was exceedingly picturesque in the varied display of so large a force in camp and bivouac. The smoke of
fires, in preparation for the noonday meal, rose in pearly columns
on every side; and thousands of tethered horses, and unnumbered
herds of cattle were grazing every where over the rich plains.
Immediately beneath the walls of the fort, on the northern
side, within stone's throw  beneath us, is a corgral-an enclosure
for the keeping of cattle, surrounded by high walls, with a barred
entrance at one corner. It was now filled with hundreds of fine
animals. As we stood looking down upon this, three horsemen,
followed by three men on foot, entered it; and we unexpectedly
became witnesses of the manner of butchering an animal here,
whether taken wild on the open prairie, or, as at present, penned
up in a corral. The uses of the lasso and bolas, and the dexterity
of the South Americans in the management of them, are familiar
to every school-boy. It was with the lasso the horsemen now
operated.  The animal designated for slaughter, was, in a few
moments, artfully detached from the general herd, and made
captive by the horns, with the unerring lasso, thrown at the same
moment by two of the horsemen-the third havilig as readily
entangled him by the hind legs as he ran. The three horses
trained to the business, the moment the lassos were thrown, braced
themselves firmly by their forefeet against the ground, bringing




MODE OF SLAUGHTERING CATTLE.               263
the lassos perfectly'taut' in three different directions, and thus
holding the beast as unmovable, as if staked by the head and
heels. As he became thus fixed, with his hind legs drawn closely
together, one of the men on foot sprang quickly behind him, and
by a single sweep of his long and murderous knife, severed the
hamstrings of both legs, bringing the hinder part of the animal
to the ground, as if by a stroke of lightning. He still stood on
his fore legs; but, in as quick time almost, the butcher was at his
head, and by one plunge of the same instrument, sent his heart's
blood gushing over the ground, and the fore legs staggering, gave
way. By a skilful movement of the lassos by the horsemen he
was jerked on his side as he fell, and the men on foot, seating
themselves upon the quivering, and still living carcass, at once
commenced their incisions, and the dissection of the skin. The
whole process of this catching, killing, flaying and cutting up an
animal, is often the work of less than ten minutes. The spectacle
is barbarous and disgusting; yet the saledaros, or general
slaughter-houses, are often visited by foreigners, for the purpose
of witnessing it, as a matter of curiosity.
October 24th.-Early in September, Commodore McKeever
was called to Buenos Ayres by official duty.  He made the
passage in the U. S. sloop Jamestown, to which his flag was transferred, and returned on the 22d in the American propeller
" Manuelita de Rosas," now running as a packet between Buenos
Ayres and Montevideo.   Mr. Harris, late charge d'affaires,
on his way to the United States accompanied him; and it is
officially announced, that the Congress will sail immediately for
Rio de Janeiro, to carry him that far on his passage home.
The visit to Urquiza, and the stroll through the camp of his
followers, it will thus be seen, were made in fortunate time. Had
they been delayed longer, I should have had no opportunity for
the observations they afforded. We are to return to the Plata;
but not till the successful revolutionist and his troops will long
have left the neighborhood of Montevideo. On the 22d he issued
a proclamation to the inhabitants of the republic. I like its style




264              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
and spirit much. In it he has thrown aside the accustomed
verbosity and grandiloquence, characteristic of the state papers
of this section of the world, and the barbarous vituperations of
partisanship; and avows his principles and purposes in a manly
and patriotic manner. I close this section of my record with a
hasty translation.
" The Governor and Captain-general of the Province of
Entre-Rios, General and Chief of its army, and General of the
vanguard of the allied armies of operation, to the inhabitants of
the oriental, Republic of Uruguay:
" ORIENTALS! I promised to fight for your liberty and national
independence, and I have fulfilled my word. The chains with
which the tyrant of my country enslaved you are rent in pieces.
It only remains for me to break those which bind the unhappy
people of Buenos Ayres, where a hateful rule still oppresses the
Argentines.  For this the soldiers of liberty must still combat.," I am about to leave you, but wherever destiny may carry
me-whether to the field of battle, to the quietude of private
life, or to the guardianship of the tranquillity and glory of my
country, I shall ever pray for your prosperity, and for the perpetuity of those blessings which I have recovered for you, after
the long and disastrous struggle which has desolated the rich
plains of your country, and crimsoned them  with the blood of
your brothers. These precious blessings are your liberty and
your independence.
" ORIENTALS! Be free, by submitting yourselves to the authority of that citizen whom constitutional suffrage shall elevate to
the chair of the chief magistracy, and by upholding the laws
which protect the lives and property of the people. Be independent by living unitedly beneath the glorious banner, which is
the symbol of your nationality, that other governments observing
it may respect you; and that you may merit the admiration of
those who have sworn to exterminate a bloody tyranny, and firmly
to establish an empire of liberty and law, in the Republics of the
Plata.




PROCLAMATION OF URQUIZA.                 265
"ORIENTALS! In union is strength; in peace prosperity; and
in the oblivion of civil discord and the exercise of republican
virtues, the happiness of your children and the perpetuity of your
national institutions.
ORIENTALS! Union, peace, and fraternity among all, is the
charge to you from him who has the glory of having contributed
to the restoration of your liberty and independence.
"JUSTO JUAN URQUIZA.
"Head-Quarters of Pantanoso, October 21st, 1851."
Thus closes the first act in the political drama now in performance on the banks of the Plata.
12




CHAPTER XXII.
RIO DE JANEIRO.
December 1 Oth.-The Congress has been a month at moorings
here. Nothing worthy of special notice has occurred on shore in
the interval. The court and church, by the customary pageants
on gala and f6te days, have furnished the chief objects for sightseeing, and varied walks by the water side and on the mountains,
my principal sources of recreation.  Our return to the metropolis
was welcomed, socially, by Mr. Schenck, the new minister, and by
Gov. Kent, the Consul, in elegant hospitalities to the officers of
the Congress; and Admiral Reynolds, relieved after long service
by Admiral Henderson, in the steam frigate Centaur, gave proof
of his continued friendship by a farewell dinner to us before
putting to sea, "; homeward bound."
The unity of my record, however, requires the brief notice
of one or two events on board ship. On the evening of the 25th
ult. an outrage was perpetrated by two or three of the crew, calculated to bring a reproach upon our good name for order and
discipline.  I was on shore with Commodore IcKeever, when it
was reported to him, that a policeman of the city, who had taken
a deserter on board, had been knocked down on the deck when
crossing the gangway, and, it was feared, had been fatally injured.
This seemed a daring outbreak against the discipline of the
service, and a serious offence against the municipal authority of




RETURN HOME OF CAPTAIN MCINTOSH.              267
the city. Great excitement was produced by it, and an investigation of the affair at once instituted.  Two chief offenders were
discovered and confined in irons, in dark cells, till a formal trial
of the case should take place. At first, the assault seemed so
wanton, as to be inexplicable; and could only be resolved into an
act of unmitigated villainy.  I was not long, however, in gaining
a clue to its solution, which, though it did not excuse, explained
the grounds of provocation, and very greatly palliated the offence.
The person attacked, instead of being a policeman, was only one
of those who are too well known among sailors as land-sharks —a
runner to a sailor boarding-house, who had been in the habit of
entrapping the men on shore, and imposing upon them in various
ways.  On a recent occasion, he had decoyed one of our crewunder peculiarly aggravating circumstances, and with pretensions
of kindness and friendship —into the hands of the police; and had
been guilty of a cowardly and abusive attack upon him personally,
afterwards, when he had no power to resent it. Great indignation against him had thus been excited; and his unexpected
appearance on the deck of the Congress, led to a speedy determination among a few, to seize what might be their only opportunity
for revenge. A crowd was quickly gathered at the gangway, as
if in mere curiosity, by which the opportunity of tripping him upn
would b)e afforded, as he should leave the ship. This purpose was
successfully accomplished, and so quickly, that there was no time
for any one to interfere. The chief injury he sustained was
from striking his head upon the combings of a hatchway; but
nothing serious to him is likely to ensue; and the crew at least,
much as they regret the reflection upon the character of the ship
in connection with the affair, think he received only that which,
according to the sailor's code of honor, was justly his due.
But this is a very trivial matter, in comparison with the chief
event which has happened: the loss to us of Captain McIntosh,
as commander of the Congress. The U. S. ship Falmouth,
Captain Pearson, of the Pacific squadron, came into port recently,
homeward bound. An exchange of commands took place; and




268              BRAZIL AND LA rLATiA.
Captain McIntosh left in the Falmouth, on the 6th inst.  To
part with him thus unexpectedly, was to others of the Congress,
as well as to me, a severe trial Every officer felt it; and there
was a general lamentation among all hands of the crew.  His
reputation in the service is of the highest merit, not only as an accomplished officer, but as a finished gentleman; and, favored with
his confidence-especially on the most important of all subjectsand intimately associated with him, I deeply feel his absence.
Indeed, when his return to the United States was first announced,
I could scarcely be reconciled to it. All things, however, are now
going on promisingly under our new commander, who comes to
us with favorable antecedents, and high professional character.
The ship is in beautiful order; and general harmony and contentment prevail, with every promise of a continuance of the happy
auspices which have hitherto marked our cruise.
One thing is very certain-that to me time flies with the
velocity of the wind. Each day is too short for its allotted
routine of duty; and Sabbath crowds upon Sabbath, as if the
week were reduced to half its length of days. Do you ask how
this can be in such long and distant exile? I answer, because I
find varied occupation to interest and keep me employed from
mlorning till night. I will give you the outline of a day on board.
To begin at the beginning: while every thing is still enshrouded
in darkness, three loud and measured beats upon a bass drum
fall on the dead silence of the ship at the hour, like the heavy
tread-according to romance writers of old-of a ghost in a
haunted castle, at midnight. They are the signal for the firing
of the morning gun of thirty-two pounds, which occurs simultaneously with the last stroke on the drum, and is followed by the
beating of the reveill6.  This, however, is not intended, and,
in general has not the effect to waken the hundreds of sleepers
on board from their repose, but only to proclaim  the first approaches of the dawn in the east, or, in nautical phraseology,
" to make daylight."  It is not till half an hour afterwards that
the boatswain's pipe, followed and joined by those of his mates,




"d MAKING DAYLIGHT"' ON BOARD A MAN-OF-WAR. 269
is heard to echo shrilly round the decks, preparatory to the clear
and stentorian cry by him, "Up, all hands!" caught also by
his mates and bawled by them about the ship, in varied tones
of voice, but all very considerably above concert pitch. Then
again in like manner; " Up all hammocks!" and should it be a
washing-day, of which there are two or three each week, a third
cry is heard, " All hands wash clothes! " or All hands wash
hammocks! " as the case may be. Every one springs at once
from his hammock; all on board is bustle and activity; and, for
an hour or more, there is heard a universal rubbing, and scrubbing, and scouring on deck, till the clothes are all washed and
hoisted fore and aft on lines in the rigging. Then comes a dashing and splashing of water, and a thumping and bumping, a
pounding and grating of " holystones" over the sanded decks, that
would effectually break the slumber of any one but a naval officer.
By the inexperienced, all this would be thought an effectual substitute for the gong, in rousing one from his slumbers, and in
hastening him to the deck to enjoy the balmy land-breeze, and the
glorious coloring of the morning on the landscape. As to the
morning gun and the reveill6, I neither heed nor hear the sound
of either of them once in a month; and as to the beauty of the
morning, and the fresh air of the deck, woe to him who seeksthem, unless prepared to receive a shower-bath of dirty water, by
the bucketfull, at every hatchway he attempts to ascend, and to
wade ancle-deep, in search of some spot where he can stand for
a moment, without being tripped up by a " squill-gee," or knocked
off his feet by the thrashing about of huge " swabs."
This general ship-cleaning is not ordinarily finished till near
8 o'clock-the breakfast hour on board; when our flags are thrown
to the wind with a salute to them by "Hail Columbia," or the
" Star-spangled Banner," from the band.  Breakfast is followed
by a change of dress in the crew; and the ship thus in the nicest
order, and the men in uniform clothes of pure white, with cuffs
and collars of blue, we are ready for both the duty and the
pleasure that the day may bring forth,  Denied the fresh air and




270               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
bright scenery of the early day, by the comfortless state of the
deck, I give the first hour after breakfast to the enjoyment of
these, and the rest of the morning to study.
The arrival of the long-expected library for the crew has
given quite a literary aspect to their hours of leisure. I have
voluntarily undertaken the office of librarian; and a half-day
twice a week, is necessarily given to the record of the issue and
return of the books. Evening classes, to which I also voluntarily
give a general superintendence, have been formed among the
adults for improvement in reading, writing, and arithmetic; and
six or eight of the more ambitious and promising, receive occasionally from me in my room, lessons of an hour or two, in the
higher branches of arithmetic and in navigation. Thus, with a
couple of hours on shore for exercise, and daily visits to the sick
and imprisoned on board, I find my time fully occupied. I say
visits to the imprisoned; for, since the abolition of the lash by
act of Congress, it has been found necessary to erect cells-as
remote as can be from the ordinary resorts of the crew about the
decks-for solitary confinement.  The interviews which I am
permitted to have with those under such punishment have proved
to be salutary in their effect in the discipline of the ship; and I
claim the liberty of access to them, as a privilege of my office.
American seamen, as a class, are fond of reading; and often,
not only of reading such books as the Arabian Nights, trashy
romances, tales of piracy and murder, and Munchausen stories,
but books of history, biography, travels, and even poetry. Among
the works ordered, is a set of Washington Irving's writings: no
volumes are more called for-especially the lives of Columbus and
Mahommed, the Conquest of Granada, and the Sketch Book.
The most remarkable reader among the crew is an old mainmast-man of most trustworthy character.  Religious works exclusively are his choice. The Bible is his constant companion;
and, besides an entire set of the Evangelical library of the
American Tract Society, which I brought with me for the use
of any who would receive them, he has carefully read almost




SOUNDS IN THE STREETS.                  271
every volume of a theological and practical nature in my
own library-including portions of Horne's Introduction, the
whole of Dwight's Theology, and the entire works of Archbishop
Leighton. Of good countenance and personal appearance in general, sedate and quiet in his conduct, and scrupulously neat and
particular in dress, he forms a study for an artist, as, seated near
the main-mast, where he is stationed at sea, his knees spread with
a piece of white duck-to keep all spots from his nicely covered
volume-with spectacled nose, he pores over it hour after hour,
so entirely absorbed by its contents as to lose all consciousness
of the varied movements around him.  He seems truly a good
man, and sincerely interested in religious things; but when I
question him in regard to personal faith and hope, he shakes his
head negatively, as if he dare not presume to these; probably
from the consciousness of an'infirmity which he finds it difficult
to overcome-the inability to resist indulgence in strong drink
on shore. Aware of this he, for the most part, very wisely declines accepting the liberty of leaving the ship.  There are other
instances of like self-denial from the same cause, among some of
our " best men," in sea phraseology.
-December 12th. —I recollect having stated, that the first
sight which arrests the eyes of the stranger on landing in Rio,
is the number, varied employments, and garb of the negroes.
The first, and chief human sounds that reach his ears, are also from
this class. Their cries through the streets vary with the pursuits
they follow.  That of the vegetable and fruit venders is monotonous and singular; but so varied, that each kind of vegetable
and fruit seems to have its own song. The coffee carriers, moving
in gangs, have a tune of their own to which they keep time, in
an Indian-like lope, with a bag of one hundred and sixty pounds'
weight, poised on their heads. The bearers of furniture form a
regular choir. One or two, with rattles of tin in their hands,
resembling the nose of a watering-pot, perforated with holes and
filled with shot, lead the way in a style truly African.  To
this is allied, with full strength of lungs, a kind of travelling




272              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
chant, in which at times all join in chorus. It is full and sonorous, and rendered pleasant, if from no other cause, by the satisfaction from it visible, in the shining and sweating faces of the
poor blacks. An effort was made by the authorities, some years
ago, to put a stop to the unceasing vociferations and songs of
the slaves; and a decree to that effect was issued. But on trial,
it was found that the poor creatures drooped and faltered under
their task, as they worked in forced silence; and soon moped in
such melancholy and depression, that the attempt was abandoned.
They now have full license to let out their musical voices; and
the way some of them give utterance from their full chests, "to
gigantic sounds, is a marvel to low-voiced humanity." This is
in direct contrast to the habits of the Brazilians. The chief and
only sound you hear in the street from them, is a singular kind
of softened hiss, the nearest resemblance to which the unpractised American could make, would probably be, according to
a suggestion of Gov. Kent, in the effort to pronounce the word
" tissue " by a quick and single action of the lips and tongue.
This can be heard at a considerable distance, and seldom fails to
attract the attention of the person to whom it is directed.  No
loud call-no halloo! to stop or to stand-no rough salutation
or boisterous recognition is here heard, but all is quiet and calm.
A beckon of the. hand, as if you wished the person to approach,
accompanied by a play of each finger, is the salute to a passer-by
in a carriage, or one at too great a distance for the ordinary low
tone of voice. The motion would be taken by a stranger for a
beckon to come near, but when this is intended, the action is reversed, the back of the hand being towards the body, and the
motion of the fingers a scoop inwards.
This sparing of the voice and this quiet action, indicate the
general indolence of the people, induced by the debilitating influence of a tropical climate, and is characteristic of all their
habits. It is a principle with them to sit at rest as much as possible, and when forced to move, to do so slowly and gently —to




CIVILITY AND PATIENCE OF THE PEOPLE.   273
be calm and composed, quiet and noiseless.  With this view of
life, they eat, sleep, keep their temper and grow fat.
Public conveyances here, as elsewhere, afford good opportunities for studying some of the manners and habits of the people.
Lines of omnibuses run in various directions through the city,
and far into the suburbs.  Gov. Kent has found it convenient
during his residence here, to make much use of them, and says,
that in so doing, he has been led to remark among other traits,
the marvellous patience of the natives, and their utter disregard
for loss of time.  No matter how long, or however unaccountable
the delay in starting, there is no inquiry made, no remonstrance
uttered, no English or American fretting and scolding and threatening. The Brazilian passengers on such occasions appear as if
they would sit for the day and the night, without a look or question of impatience.  On one occasion, he was making a passage
in a steamboat from the port of Estrella, on the western side of
the bay of Rio.  In crossing a shoal she grounded in the mud
and remained fast for an hour; not a native passenger manifested
the least curiosity or anxiety in regard to the detention. No one
asked the cause or went forward to make any investigation, or to
ascertain whether the tide was rising or falling. There was
nothing on board either to eat or drink, except water; yet no one
inquired how long the delay might be, but each taking out his
tablets, or a newspaper, began writing or reading as if all were
going on well.
Another trait strikingly exhibited in the omnibus, is the remarkable politeness and civility of the citizens, in some respects.
Every man that enters the vehicle raises his hat to his fellowpassengers, who return the salute in the same manner. Sometimes
in doing this, if the ommnibus suddenly starts, there is an amusing struggle between politeness and the self-preservation which
demands the use of both hands, ending at times in a stumble
and fall, hat in hand, in the anxiety to do the accustomed honors.
But no one thinks of yielding his seat after it is once taken,
either to sex or age; and if the only unoccupied place should be
12*




274              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
at the furthest end of the carriage, the most delicate woman, on
entering, must force her way to it as best she may. This is to
be attributed to the national dislike to locomotion, and to the vis
inertice incident to the climate. Men will often sit wedged together in a hot day, after vacancies on both sides have occurred,
rather than move a foot for a more comfortable position.
The omnibuses are drawn by mules, and amusing scenes are
often witnessed by the display of their characteristic obstinacy
and ill-temper.  As a friend remarks, in the language of some
modern reformers, "from, their unfortunate and misdirected organization, they exhibit, at times, great lightness of heel, and
a savage desire to kick something."   The drivers, however,
manage them admirably, and guide them skilfully, at a rapid
rate, through the narrow  streets.  The carriages are strongly
built-as they need to be; for the pavements are very rough.
To this, however, the drivers pay little heed, and generally drive
the most rapidly over the worst sections. In one respect the
rate at which they move is an inconvenience to those wishing to
take passage. The drivers have nothing of the " wide-awake "
qualities of the Yankee jehus of the same vehicles at home. They
never look out for passengers in the cross streets, and never behind them, but wait to be hailed by the native "hiss." The
foreigner may not be accomplished in the utterance of this;
and when once the omnibus is well started, there is a farewell
to all hope of a seat for the trip.




CHAPTER   XXIII.
SAN ALIEXO.
December 14th.-Where, or what, you will ask, is San Aliexo?
It is a spot which reminds me more of my home than any place
I have seen for eighteen months past, notwithstanding the existence of features in its scenery in the widest possible contrast
with any found there. Even while I write, there is a rumbling
and babbling of water near at hand, which tempts me to fancy
that I am at the table of the little library so familiar to you, and
that it is our own brook I hear, made unusually merry by the
meltings of the spring, or the pourings of an autumnal rain.  But
this is not telling you what, and where, San Aliexo is,
It is a little valley at the foot of the Organ Mountains, thirty
miles from Rio de Janiero.  Mr. M -—, in whose bride, brought
to Brazil by him from the United States last summer, I recognized with so much surprise and pleasure, my young friend,
M —-  G-, daughter of Capt. G —. —, of the navy, resides in
it; and a visit to her and her husband has led me here. My
messmate, Captain T, of the marine corps, is an uncle of
Mrs. M ——.  He passed a fortnight recently at San Aliexo, and
joined the ship again, three days ago. Mr. M —- accompanied
him on board, and so earnestly urged an invitation from himself
and my young friend to their place, that I returned with him, and
have now, for two days, been enjoying their hospitality in the




276               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
very perfection of rural life.  The trip as far as Piedade, at the
head of the bay, twenty miles from Rio, is made by water. Till
within a year or two, the packets plying between this place and
the city, were exclusively sharp-built and gracefully modelled
lateen sail-boats; but now, a little steamer, scarcely larger than
the smallest " tug " at New York, also makes a daily trip.  We
embarked on this at noon, and reached Piedade at 3 o'clock;
having stopped to land and receive passengers at Paqueta, the
most beautiful of the islands in the upper part of the bay.
The day was remarkably fine; neither too bright nor glaring for
the enjoyment of the scenery, as is often the case in this, the midsummer of the year, nor too sombre from the thickness of the
screening clouds. There was quite a number of passengers, male
and female, and of a variety of nations-Brazilian, Portuguese,
French, German, Swiss, Italians, Englishmen, Americans, and
numerous Africans, both bond and free.  The Italians were image
venders, having with them the long board which they carry on
their heads in their travels, filled with the plaster casts of saints
and angels, dancing-girls and satyrs, and, for aught I observed to
the contrary, statuettes of the Prince of Evil himself. The
images of the saints led to conversation among some of the passengers, long resident in the country, on the superstition and
superstitious practices of the common people.  Some of the
anecdotes related were quite amusing. San Antonio, or St.
Anthony, is the patron saint of the Portuguese.  It is upon him
chiefly they rely for aid in various straits and difficultiesespecially in the recovery of lost or stolen property. The highly
glazed and gaudily painted effigies of this saint, represent him
with an infant Saviour in his arms.  This baby-image is not,
however, part and parcel of the principal cast, but a separate
piece attached to the arm of the saint by a long pin, which can
be inserted in a hole in the plaster, and removed at pleasure.
And for what purpose is this arrangement, do you imagine?  I
could scarcely have credited the statement, had not an examination of the images corroborated it: the purpose is, that the saint,




EXPERIENCE IN MIRACLES                277
when regardless of the prayers made to him for aid in any specific
case, may be punished by having the child taken from him! This,
I am assured, is often done. An additional infliction for hardheartedness or contumacy on his part, is to put his image behind
the door with its face to the wall, or to stand it on its head, upside down! A gentleman present related the following fact,
illustrative of a like degree of superstition. An old Portuguese,
near whom he lived as a neighbor for a long time, and with whom
he was familiar, said to him one day, " You Protestants do not
believe in miracles?"  "No, not in miraclesof the present daydo you?  "Certainly."  "And why?"  "Because I have experienced them myself." "Indeed! and when was that? " Oh!
at different times: once in Portugal, when I was a young man.
Like most young fellows, I was fond of dress then, and wore a
pair of silver shoe-buckles, of which I was very vain.  One
Sunday having them on, I set off for chapel two or three miles
distant, by a cross path, and when I got there, one of my buckles
was gone.  I was very much troubled; but staid to mass,
vowing to San Antonio, if he would get back my buckle, I would
give him a wax candle. On my way home, I kept looking along
the path to see whether San Antonio would hear my prayer; and
before I had gone half the way, there lay the buckle before me
all right, on one side of the path. At another time I lost a
favorite dog. I was very much grieved, and felt the loss so much,
that one day, when walking along the road, I made a vow to San
Antonio of a half pound of candles, if he would only bring him
back; and I had scarcely said the words, before my dog came
bouncing through the hedge to me as fast as he could run  "
Such was the amount of the old man's experience in miracles.
While mentally classifying my fellow-passengers, as to their
nationality and social position, my eye rested on one of them,
apparently some sixty years of age, whose aspect was peculiarly
intelligent and gentlemanlike. A round jacket of blue cloth,
trowsers of cotton striped blue and white, long boots of the
country of undressed leather, with spurs of like fashion, a broad



278              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
brimmed, low-crowned, white felt hat, and a whip in hand,
told that he was prepared to ride after reaching the landing.
Pointing him out to Mr. M —, I said, " That person, I presume,
is a country gentleman of the first class."  Looking in the
direction indicated, he replied, "' That is Admiral T-."   This
I at once perceived to be the fact; and, both of us having before
met him, we approached with our salutations. He is an Englishman, who left the British naval service when a lieutenant, thirty
years ago, for that of Brazil, and has been advanced in it to the
rank of admiral. After much important naval service, he was
appointed adjutant-general of the Empire, during the minority
of the Emperor, an office which he held for many years; but is
now off duty, and on the retired list of the navy. I first met
him in Rio in 1829; and a second time since the Congress has
been on this station, but in so different a dress, that I did not now
recognize him. He was on his way to a coffee plantation in the
Organ Mountains; his horses and servants being also on board the
steamer. His reception of us was most cordial, and his conversation during the remainder of the passage, interesting and
instructive, from  a perfect knowledge of the country.   No
meals are served on board the packet, and he insisted upon our
joining him in a Brazilian lunch, as he called it, of sausages,
made partly of beef and partly of pork-with a strong mingling
of garlic-stuffed in a large skin, in imitation of those of
Bologna.  Cheese, and bread in rolls, with oranges for dessert,
made up the repast: all being served in most primitive style, on
the wrappers of brown paper in which the articles had been purchased at the grocer's. Each of us used his own knife in helping
himself, and all drank from a cup of silver, belonging to our host,
which was as bruised and battered, as if it had done service for a
whole mess in a dozen campaigns. We ate upon deck in the
midst of our fellow-passengers; and were waited on by a slave
in shirt and trowsers of coarse toweloth, without shoes or hat,
but in a livery-jacket of blue turned up with red, and a red
waistcoat.  His master seemed most kindly attached to him,




PIEDADE.                      279
saying that, " in fidelity, honesty, and in every qualification for
his business, he was worth any twenty ordinary servants'at
hone' " —referring, I suppose, to England.
Piedade, the place to which the steamer plies, consists of one
long range of buildings under a single roof, and comprises a warehouse, for the storage of coffee and other products on their way
to the city, and the returns in foreign goods; a packet office; a
shop for the retail of articles in general demand; and a small
venda or tavern-the eating and sleeping-rooms of which communicate directly with the stables and mule-stalls in the rear. Room
for this establishment - along the front and on one end of
which the wharf extends-has been scooped fromn the base of an
isolated, round-topped promontory, which rises from the bay,
much in the manner, and with the general appearance of Stony
Point,.near the entrance of the Highlands on the Hudson. We
had intended to dine here; but the luncheon of the admiral saved
us from all temptation on landing, from the oily dishes of the
dirty venda, which, rank with garlic, were spreading their perfume
around, and we hastened to proceed on our way..
It was quite a pleasure to see a light and tasteful wagon of
American manufacture, with seats for two and a caleche top, in
readiness to receive us; and one still greater to move off in it, at
a rapid rate, behind two fat, sleek, and spirited mules. These
animals are much more serviceable than horses in this climate. I
am becoming so much accustomed to their appearance, as almost
to admire them. Some of those brought to the landing to meet
the passengers in company with us, were beautiful; especially two
that were milk-white, rivalling the drifted snow.  The saddlecloths and bridle-reins were also white, and in the most perfect
keeping. In these animals, as well as some others, I could trace
lines of beauty: particularly in their long and delicately shaped
ears, theirneatly shaven tails, and slender and symmetrically formed
legs. On being mounted, they amble off, too, with their riders in
such an easy and knowing way, that I am beginning to have quite
a fancy for a well-trained beast of the kind.




280              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
Carriage roads are not common in Brazil.  That on which
we now were, is the principal among the few in this section of the
empire, and leads across the mountains to the mining districts
in the far interior. It is narrow, but well graded; having the
earth thrown up in the centre with deep and wide trenches on
either side. It is for the most part unfenced; enclosures by the
wayside, wherever there are any, are formed by hedges of the
thorny acacia, of mimosa, the running rose, the wild orange tree,
or the hybiscus.
The road presented a lively scene for some distance, in the
movements on it of the passengers from the boat-some in clumsy
carriages, but chiefly on horse and mule-back, and the poorer
class and negroes on foot. These last, with trunks and portmanteaus, boxes, bundles, and different kinds of packages of greater
or less weight on their heads, walked erectly and with firm and
rapid stride. The country between the waters of the bay and
the foot of the mountains, a space of ten or twelve miles, is alluvial, low and wet,-a sandy and marshy plain, overspread with
brushwood and jungle, from which numerous rounded hills rise
abruptly on every side.  These, well-wooded, and partially cultivated, are the sites of the few dwellings seen. The first part of
the way presents the aspect of a region abounding in miasma and
mosquitoes, with few attractions as a place of residence. At the
end of four miles is the town of 3Maj6, situated on a small river
of the same name. It is the head of boat navigation, and counts
a population of three or four thousand: but seems a dull and
inactive place, and may be summarily described as a shabby and
dirty Portuguese town.
Beyond Maje the country improved in appearance.  The hills
were more numerous and more swelling in outline, and their sides
and summits more richly tufted with foliage. Here the chief animation of the scene consisted in long "troupes" of heavily laden
mules with their muleteers, on their way from the interior, or
returning from Piedade with panniers less heavily laden or entirely
empty. Some were en route; others, grouped under the shade




COTTON FACTORY OF SAN ALIEXO.               281
of immense open sheds or ranrchos, —places built at distances of a
few miles by the wayside, for the accommnodation of these troupeswere resting for a brief time; and others again, relieved from
their burdens for a longer stop, were seen eagerly seeking food,
wherever they could find it by the wayside.
The enterprise which brought Mr. M —— to Brazil, and has
made him a resident here, is the establishment of a cotton manufactory; and the road into which we turned from  the great turnpike, as it is called, at the end of three miles from Maje, is of his
own construction, to facilitate the transportation of the raw
material and manufactured goods, to and from his establishment,
five miles distant. It is not so wide or so well graded as the
public road, but most creditable as a private work, and a great
advance upon the mule-track and bridle-path of former days.
The last four miles of the drive along the rich bottom-land of the
3Maj6, and afterwards of its tributary, the Peak River, was beautiful.  The narrow, lane-like road is lined closely on either side
with green hedges, in some places of mallows covered with purple
flowers, three or four feet only in height, and in others of the wild
orange tree, rising to twenty and thirty. The loftier ranges of
the mountains in front of us were hidden in clouds; still the
wildness and beauty of the shafts which buttress them, and of the
hills which form their bases, were more and more impressive the
further we advanced. At length, as we turned the shoulder of a
projecting hill, the little valley, three miles long, and half a mile
wide, hemmed in and overhung by the wildest and loftiest peaks
of the Organ Mountains, opened suddenly to view.  To my eyes
it was fascinating in its secluded beauty, and the wild sublimity
of its surroundings.  I can scarcely describe the effect, from
association, of the unexpected sight of an " American Factory,"
with its modest belfry, rising loftily and in snowy whiteness from
the midst of green groves and bright streams; the cottages of
the operatives being clustered around it; and, in a grove of
acacias, a quarter of a mile distant, the " American" dwelling
of the proprietor.  I use the word " American " not in reference




282              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
to fashion merely, but to material and constrution, the whole
having been fitted for use in the United States. There was not
an image, in all that gave animation to the picture, to break
the illusion of having been suddenly transported from Brazil,
and set down in some manufacturing glen at home.
Mr. M —'s house is situated on a natural terrace, twenty
feet above the level of a beautiful meadow of af'alfa or Peruvian
grass, which lies between it and the factory. A road on the bank
of the river runs beside this, in front of the house and lawn; and
is a perfect specimen of the " green lane," in the English landscape. Smooth, straight, and turf-covered, with a hedge of
mimosa on the meadow side, and embowering thickets of bushes
and trees overhanging the river on the other, it forms a striking object in the scene: one harmonizing well with the rural
quietude and simplicity of the whole. In the lawn, which is on
a level with the meadow and lane, there is a fountain and fine
jet d'eau, and upon the terrace above, another between the drawing-room windows and the grove of acacias. A garden of fruit
and flowers on the opposite side of the house, is separated from
it by an artificial stream, whose bed is so paved with rough stones
as to produce a constant murmur of soft sounds, as the water
glides over and around them. Every thing in sight, indeed, though
the place is new, presents a picture of taste and rural beauty,
that makes me think of the " happy valley " in Rasselas.
It is unnecessary to say that I was most cordially received by
my friend, whom I found in all the freshness and bloom  of
American beauty, and that I felt at once at home in her neat and
tasteful abode.
Dec. 16tz. —At the end of three days even, I cannot resist a
feeling of having been transported from Brazil to some mountain
region at home.  There is nothing in the general foliage, except
here and there the tufted top of a palm, or the broad leaf of the
banana, to forbid the illusion. The place, in its quietude, its
bright meadow and green lane, edged with hedges, its river whispering over a stony bed, beneath thicket-covered and tree-emlbowered




SABBATH AT SAN ALIEXO.                 283
banks, reminds me of Landsdown; while the house, an importation in all its parts from the United States; the factory, of which
the same is true; and the distant hum of its busy looms and
spindles, present a picture as strikingly characteristic of New
England.
The weather is charming: clear and bright, with an occasional
cloud of snowy whiteness floating against the deep blue of the
sky, while breezes of grateful elasticity fan down from  the
mountain tops in the mornings and evenings, and sweep back
through the valley with coolness from the distant sea at noonday.
The nights, in their utter silence, are in wide contrast with those
to which I have of late been accustomed: not a sound is heard
but the plashings of the fountains and the murmurings of many
waters.
The Sabbath was a day of rest indeed.  I officiated at a service held in the hall at 11 o'clock, and would most gladly have
attempted to make the day one of spiritual good to the operatives
of the factory, and the numerous dependants of the establishment, by public worship with them. With the exception of
the foreman and one or two assistants, however, all these are
foreigners-Portuguese and Germans, whose languages I do not
speak, and who, moreover, are chiefly Romanists, not accessible to
a Protestant by preaching. - The greatest number of those who
are employed in the factory are females —Germans from the Imperial colony of Petropolis: the male portion are Portuguese from
Oporto and the islands of Madeira and Terceira.  The house-servants, the waiter, coachman, gardener and under-gardener, are Portuguese; the chambermaid, cook, and laundress, free negresses.
There is a Romish chapel within three miles of the valley;
but it is closed for the most of the year, and is not frequented by
the work-people here.  The parish priest, like most others in the
country, is living in a state of open concubinage, and is in other
ways unpopular as to his morals. In passing through Maje, we
met a fine-looking young man, handsomely mounted, followed by
two negroes on mules. I was struck with his appearance, and,




284               RRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
remarking it, learned that he was a son of the padre of the place,
the eldest of a large family. We saw the father shortly afterwards, and received a bow from him at a, door, as he was about to
mount his mule.  This animal I observed to be one of the finest
of the kind I had seen; and I was struck with the peculiar fashion
of the stirrups of the saddle; they were of polished brass, richly
wrought, and in the form of a Turkish slipper.
December 18th.-On Tuesday I took a ride of two miles or
more on horseback, to the head of the little valley. This presents
a most wild and romantic scene: making one feel, in gazing
upon it,-while mountain piled upon mountain, and pinnacled
rock rising above pinnacled rock, tower, almost perpendicularly,
thousands of feet overhead,-as if you had not only passed beyond
civilization, but had arrived at the outer edge of the world itself,
where, by the inaccessible barriers in front and on either hand, it
is more impressively said than even by the waves of the sea-shore,
" Hitherto shalt thou come, but no further."'
After passing Mr; M.'s place, the only road is a mulepath, wide enough for a single aninal, and in all respects, excepting the tracks of repeated use, in the state in which nature formed
it-not a stone removed, and not an ascent or descent, however
abrupt and precipitous, smoothed or graded. A few scattered
habitations formed of wattled sticks, plastered with mud, and
thatched with grass, are seen here and there; but less comfortable,
apparently, and less attractive as dwellings, than the meanest log
cabins on the outskirts of pioneer life in the United States. A
few patches of mandioca, and one or two of Indian corn, alone
indicated any cultivation of the soil, or gave evidence of a pursuit
of industry.
The course of the principal stream is a broad bed -of wild and
massive rocks, from one to another of which, ordinarily, you
may step dry-shod; but, in rains, these are covered by rushing and foaming torrents, and the stream is impassable. The next
morning Mr. MN-  accompanied me in a second ride, up a valley
branching to the west from this, called the Peak Valley, from a




PEAK VALLEY AND RIVER.                 285
remarkable peak of granite, which rises at its head: one of those
sugar-loaf shafts, so common in the geological formation of this
region. This valley, too, is exceedingly wild, in its chief features;
and is watered by a rapid stream called the Peak River, tributary
to that on which the factory stands.
The only drawback to the entire satisfaction of my visit, for
the first three days, was the concealment by thick clouds, of the
pikes or fingers as named by some, and all the higher ranges of
the Organ Mountains which immediately overhang San Aliexo.
These had so often been the object of admiration at a distance,
when visible from Rio, that I was impatient to behold them close
at hand; but had been tantalized only, by an occasional, indistinct,
and momentary glimpse, through the mist of an opening cloud,
of a fantastic peak or shelving precipice, standing high in the
heavens above us. Just at nightfall, last evening, however, the
veil was entirely lifted, and I charmed beyond expectation by the
scene thus disclosed: and not without reason, as even the imperfect sketch accompanying this will show.
I was up with the dawn this morning, and, finding the whole
range to be still uncovered, hastened to a part of the lawn which
commands the best view of it. The rising sun was just beginning
to illuminate the loftiest peaks with a bright and golden light;
and I stood for an hour riveted to the spot, in the study and untiring admiration of a scene, gorgeous in coloring, and of
unrivalled sublimity in its outlines. By nine o'clock the mists
from the valleys had again enshrouded the whole in clouds.
Though the present is the rainy season of the year, till yesterday the weather was bright as that of June at home: but then,
while we were at dinner, it began suddenly to pour down in torrents; presenting every thing out of doors in a new phase. At
the end of a couple of hours the rain ceased; and the paths in
the lawn and the road soon became sufficiently dry to allow our
tar ing a walk. Mr. n —   and I went to observe the effect,
upon the river. This was surprising. From a bed of rocks,
among which a shallow stream was lazily flowing, it had become




286              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
a swollen and irresistible torrent: wide and deep, roaring like a
tornado, and foaming like the sea. As we approached a venda,
or retail store and grocery, a. quarter of a mile up the valley,
there was a shout and call for us, by several persons collected
there, to hurry on, as if something unusual was to be seen.
These, at the same time, set off on a run towards a point near by
them, which commands an unobstructed view of the river above.
Mr. M —-- told me, as we hastened forward, that the sight was
the approach of an additional flood of water from the mountain.
This, though not now so remarkable in its appearance as it sometimes is, was very singular. The mass of water tumbled by such
showers down the precipices which hedge in the little valley, is so
great, and rushes so suddenly into the bed of the river, as in
itself to exhibit the appearance from bank to bank, of passing
over a dam. The perpendicular elevation of this new body of water
above that previously forming the surface of the stream, was a
couple or more feet.
We were standing at the time, near a rude mill for grinding
the root of the mandioca, and the conversion of it into farinathe " staff of life" in Brazil; it was in operation, and the process in the manufacture going on, under the management of a
half-dozen nearly naked negroes. The mandioca is every where
seen growing in plantations of greater or less extent, in all the
tropical parts of Brazil. It resembles the palma christi, or castor
oil plant, in its general appearance, more than any other growth
that occurs to me. The leaves, though smaller and of a darker
green, are in like manner digitated or finger-shaped, and the stem
and branches irregular and scraggy. It grows to the height of
four and five feet, and attains maturity at the end of eighteen or
twenty months after being planted. The roots produce the farina. These, at full growth, are of the size and general appearance of a large irregularly-formed parsnip. After being brought
from the field in wide, shallow baskets, carried by the negroes on
their heads, the first operation is to scrape off the outer skin
with a knife. In this state the root is very white and pure in




DIFFICULTIES ENCOUNTERED BY MR. AM -.   287
looks, but poisonous in acrid juices. A rasp or coarse grater is
so arranged as to be turned by a water-wheel; against this the
root is held, and becoming finely grated, falls into a trough or tub
of water, prepared to receive it, and is reduced to a pulp. In
this state, it is placed in baskets and pressed with heavy weights,
till freed from the water and its own juices. It is then dried,
broken up or powdered, sifted through a coarse sieve, and placed
in a very large fiat iron pan, having a furnace with slow heat
beneath. In this it is thoroughly dried, without being allowed
to scorch or burn. It is then put in bags for use or sale.
One of the effects of the rain, was the appearance of numerous cascades and temporary waterfalls on the tops and sides of
the mountains. I dare not venture to guess even, at the extent
of some of these.  They foam down their courses, white as drifting snow, and look beautiful, amid the deep green of the forests,
and the dark precipices over which they pour.
The history of Mr. M ——'s enterprise in the introduction of
cotton-spinning and weaving, here, is quite interesting, and has
caused me to look upon him as a pioneer in such business, well
worthy the reputation of our countrymen for energy, invention,
and indomitable perseverance; and an instructive example of the
importance of a fixed purpose for the accomplishment of an end.
He met, at first, with a succession of disappointments and unexpected obstacles, which would have utterly disheartened and
broken down a spirit less determined, and less elastic than his own.
Brought up in mercantile pursuits without practical knowledge in
mechanics or manufacture, he determined, in 1846, to attempt
the establishment of a cotton factory in Brazil. A gentleman
from Rio, then in New York, encouraged him in the project, by
the assurance that the vicinity of Rio furnished ample waterpower for the object; that, abounding in hills and mountains,
streams of water in sufficient volume, were in various places
poured down. The Brazilian minister at Washington, also expressed great interest in the subject, and by way of encouragement to Mr. M ——, gave him a copy of an act, passed by the




288              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
Imperial Legislature in 1842, by which all machinery for manufacturing purposes of the kind, was exempted from duty.  Under
these auspices, he expended capital to a large amount, in the necessary machinery, in materials for the large structure in which it
was to be put up, and in the freight of both to Rio. Mr. Mhastened in advance to Brazil, to make choice of a site for the
establishment, and secure it by purchase: but only to meet a first
disappointment. The streams on which his Brazilian friend had
relied, as abundantly ample in water-power, would have scarcely
sufficed, as Mr. M —--  expressed it, to water the mules necessary
in the work.   An exploration of the entire region within
thirty miles of Rio became necessary, for the discovery of
an unfailing stream, with water sufficient to turn a large wheel,
and in a situation to be available.  He could gain no information
on the point upon which he could rely, and was obliged to
make the search in person, through woods and wilds, and over
marshes and moors, and in ignorance, at the time, of the language
of the country.  A month thus occupied, brought to his knowledge two supplies of water only, that would answer his purpose:
one at Tejuca, nine or ten miles from Rio, and another in the direction of Petropolis, a colony of Germans in the mountains.
That at Tejuca, besides being already leased for other purposes,
was inaccessible except by mules as means of transportation, and
therefore, not to be thought of; the other was the private property of the Emperor, and not obtainable in any way.
Such were the prospects of Mr. M —-—, with fifty thousand
dollars worth of material on its way to Rio, accompanied by several workmen under high pay, for the erection of the necessary
buildings, and to put the machinery into an available condition.
After all other search had proved in vain, he was accidentally led
to this valley, and unexpectedly here found much, if not all, he
was looking for. About the same time, the shipment from the
United States arrived; but, notwithstanding the decree furnished
himn by the Brazilian minister, declaring such articles free, the
officials at the Custom House pertinaciously demanded the duty




DIGNITY OF OFFICE.                   289
-upon them. This; according to the tariff, like most of the imposts here on any thing foreign, was high, and would have materially increased his expenditure. The only alternative was an
application for relief in the case, to the minister having cognizance of such affairs.  Those in official position in Brazil, from
the Minister of State to the most insignificant employ6 of a
bureau, hold the dignity conferred in high estimation, and are
inaccessible in proportion to their rank.  Three months elapsed
before Mr. MI —-- could gain the audience sought; and then,
only to be told, that the exemption referred to in the decree of
the Imnperial legislature, was exclusively for the benefit of persons
who had already established factories and needed additional
machinery; not for those who were introducing machinery for a
new establishment. The decision, therefore, was that the duties
must be paid; but, for the law in the case, he was referred to
the attorney-general of the empire.  This dignitary condescended
to grant Mr. MiA    an audience at the end of an additional six
weeks; but decided with the minister, that the duties must be
paid, or at least, deposited with the collector of customs till the
factory should be in operation. Thus, though the enterprise was
one of great importance to the interests of the country, and such
as should at once have secured the favor and aid of the government, the entire material necessary for carrying it into execution,
was kept for nine months in the hands of the custom-house officers, greatly exposed to rust and injury, and only released on the
payment of several thousands of dollars.  It would occupy too
much time to pursue the history of the enterprise in detail: in
the construction of a damn across the river at a great outlay of
money and labor, only to have it swept away by a flood from the
mountains; in the consequent necessity of digging a long raceway along the base of the hills, without the possibility of securing the adequate number of laborers, white or black; and also, of
making the road of five miles to the turnpike. Over this last work,
when finished, the whole of the material for the factory building
and the machinery, among which e     single piece —the shaft of the
13




290              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
great wheel-weighed 7000 lbs., was to be transported, without
any of the facilities, so common with us, for accomplishing it.
The mechanics and artisans, brought from the United States for
the erection of the building, were found to be incompetent in many
respects; and the result was, that Mr. M —-- was obliged himself
to perform much of the manual labor even, and instead of planning, devising, and superintending only, to become practically a
carpenter, mason, machinist; and even freightmaster and carter, as
no one around him, whose aid he could secure, knew what course
to pursue in an emergency, or even in any common difficulty that
might occur: he was obliged first to discover how a thing was to
be done, and then do it himself. Still he persevered through every
discouragement and disaster, till his efforts were crowned with
full success, and the factory was early in operation.
Though it is only in the more common fabrics in cotton that
the manufacturer here can yet compete with British and American
goods; and the article chiefly produced, thus far, is a coarse
cloth for coffee bagging and the clothes of slaves, he deserves a
medal of honor from the government, and the patronage of the
empire, not only for the establishment of the manufactory, but
for the living example set before a whole Province of the indolent and sluggish natives, of Yankee energy, ingenuity, indefatigable industry, and unyielding perseverance.




CHAPTER XXIV.
RIO DR JANEIRO.
December 30th.-It was quite a trial to bid adieu to the
charms of San Aliexo.  My kind host and hostess were earnest
in their persuasions to detain me through the holidays; and I
would most readily have yielded, but for an engagement to officiate, on Christmas morning, at the marriage of Miss K., the
daughter of the American consul, to Mr. R —  of the family
of that name, already so often mentioned. The groom, though a
native of Brazil, claims, through his father, the rights of a British
subject; and the civil contract took place, in conformity with an act
of parliament, in the presence of the British consul, at his office,
at an early hour of the day. The marriage was afterwards solemnized by me, according to the Protestant service, in the drawing-room of the American consulate; and, Mr. RI       being a
Romanist, a third ceremony occurred, as at the wedding of Miss
IR —-, his sister, last August, in the private chapel of the country house of Mr. M-, his maternal grandfather.
The company assembled at the consulate was large, and the
retinue of carriages by which it was conveyed the long drive to
IMr. M ——'s, quite imposing.  Four-in-hand is the usual turnout here, for such a distance, and Mr. Schenck, the American minister, led the way, next after the bride and groom, in an elegant chariot drawn by four beautiful white horses.  Commodore




292               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
McKeever's carriage had four fine mules. I was of his party. The
sky was slightly overcast with fleecy clouds, and the coachman's
box being so lofty as to overlook the walls and hedges, which
screen so much of the taste and beauty of the suburbs from view
on the level of the street, in defiance of every Brazilian idea of
dignity, I perched myself upon it, for the greater enjoyment of
the drive. The day being a general festival, the whole population of the city was in the streets in holiday dress; and in the
extended suburbs through which we skirted our way, the inhabitants-by whole families-were everywhere seen in the verandahs
and lawns and door-yards of the houses, in the cheerful and quiet
enjoyment of the fiesta.  A fondness for splendor and display of
every kind-in dress, furniture and equlipage-is strikingly a
characteristic of the people here; and the showy procession,
recognized as a bridal cortege, created quite a sensation as it
dashed onwards-manifestly exciting the admiration and lively
sympathies of the observers.
From my elevated and unconfined position, I enjoyed the
whole much; and feasted, the entire distance, on the gorgeous
display of flowers, exhibited in the succession of tasteful gardens
and pleasure-grounds which- I overlooked.
The mansion and grounds of Mr. M ~  I described to you
in connection with the previous wedding. The religious ceremony
now, was the same in every particular, from the scattering of the
rose leaves and orange buds before the bride in the procession
from the drawing-room to the chapel, to the showering of the
same over her and the whole company, with the closing benedictions at the altar.  A  concert in the music-room  immediately
succeeded the ceremony, and continued till the banquet was served
at six o'clock. This was more luxurious, if possible, in the variety and costliness of its delicacies, native and foreign, in season
and out of season, than on the former occasion; and superb in
its table-service and plate.  The decorations in flowers alone,
would, in a less favored climate, have formed no inconsiderable
item of expense; while the fruits, in the perfection of their kinds




NEGROES IN THE HOLIDAYS.                293
-all freshly gathered-pines, figs, oranges, sweet-lemons, gra~pes
in clusters like those of Eshcol, bananas, mangoes, and melons,
were most artistically arranged. After coffee in the drawingroom, dancing was commenced; and, taking our leave, we were
safely on board ship shortly after ten o'clock.
Thus passed my Christmas, and thus is our compatriot, Miss
K ——, married; and, in the language of the world, " well married."  But alas! married in Brazil: away from an American
home; away from the intelligence and high cultivation of American life; away from the pure morals, spiritual aspirations, and
religious privileges of American Christianity; away from almost
every thing that I would wish an American girl to hold most
dear!
January 7th, 1852.-This festive period of the year presents
constant opportunities of witnessing the slave and negro population in holiday aspects.  For many nights past, Gloria Hill, at
which the Commodore's barge usually lands in our evening visits
to the shore, has echoed till a late hour with the songs, the wild
music, and the tread of the dance in their favorite amusements; and yesterday afternoon, I accidentally became a spectator of a grand gathering of the kind. It was "Twelfth" or
"1 King's day," as sometimes called,-being that commemorative
of the adoration of the Magi in the stable of Bethlehem; and is
a chief festival with the negroes.
I left the ship with the intention of taking, once more, the long
walk through the valley of the Larangeiras to the aqueduct,
and thence to the city by the hill of Santa Theresa.  When about
half way up the Larangeiras, however, my attention was arrested
by a large gathering of negroes within an enclosure by the wayside, engaged in their native, heathen dances, accompanied by the
wild and rude music brought with them from Africa.  I stopped
to witness the scene: a counterpart, in most respects, to those
which, during the first period of my residence at the Sandwich
Islands, attended the orgies of pagan revelry there.  Many of
the principal performers, both among the dancers and musicians,




294              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
were dressed in the most wild and grotesque manner-some, as if
in impersonation of the Prince of Evil himself, as pictured with
hoof and horns and demoniac mien. Many of the dances surpassed
in revolting licentiousness, any thing I recollect to have witnessed
in the South Seas; and filled my mind with melancholy disgust:
the more so, from the fact, that a majority, if not all the performers, as was manifest from the crosses and amulets they wore,
were baptized members of the Romish Church-Christians in
name, but in habits and in heart heathens still. Exhibitions of
this kind are far from being limited here to extraordinary holidays, or to the seclusion of by-places. I have seen them in open
daylight, in the most public corners of the city, while young
females even, of apparent respectability and modesty, hung over
the surrounding balconies as spectators.
I know not how long the revelry had now been going on; but
either from the free use of cacha, the vile rumn of the country, or
from nervous excitement, many seemed fairly beside themselves.
These danced till ready to drop from exhaustion; while shouts of
encouragement and applause followed the persevering efforts of
those who were most enduring and most frantic in muscular exertioln. The performers on the African drums and other rude
instruments, who accompanied the monotonous beating and thrumming upon these with loud songs, in solo and chorus, of similar
character, seemed especially to enter into the spirit of the revelry, and labored with hands and voice and a vehemence of action
in their whole bodies, that caused the sweat to roll down their
naked limbs as if they had just stepped from a bath of oil.
By the time I had finished these observations, the evening
was too far advanced for the walk upon which I had started, and
I retraced my steps to the Catete, the principal street, connecting
the city with the bay and suburbs of Botefogo. In it, towards
evening, the wealth and fashion of the city, especially in the diplomatic and foreign circles, is generally met in carriages and on
horseback for the daily afternoon drive.  Many of the equipages
equal in elegance those in New York and other of our chief




AN AMUSING STREET SCENE.                295
cities; while well-mounted riders, liveried coachmen, footmen, and
grooms, give to the whole quite the air of a metropolis.  That,
however, which most struck me on the present occasion, was an
amusing side-scene. Though less generally the custom than formerly, it is still the habit of some of the bourgeoisie of Rio, at
least on Sundays and great holidays, to promenade to and from
church, by whole families, parents and children, from adults to infants, with a retinue of servants-in their best dresses, and in formal
procession of two and two. The sight thus presented is interesting, and often amusing, from the formality and stately solemnity
with which they move along. The servants bring up the rear, and,
whether male or female, are usually as elaborately, if not as expensively dressed as the rest of the family: and often, in the case
of the women, with an equal display of laces, muslins, and showy
jewelry. Apparently in imitation of this usage of the white population-or rather of the Portuguese and Brazilian, for there are
no whites among the native born here-two jet black African
women, richly and fashionably attired, came sauntering along
with the most conscious air of high-bred self-possession. They
were followed by a black female servant, also in full dress, carrying a black baby three or four months old, and decked out in all
the finery of an aristocratic heir-an elaborately wrought, lacefrilled and rosetted cap, and long flowing robe of thin muslin
beautifully embroidered, and ornamented with lace. Every one
seemed struck with this display; and I was at a loss to determine
whether it was a bona fide exhibition of the pride of life, or
only in burlesque of it, with the design of "shooting folly as
it flies."  The common blacks, crowding the doors and gateways, burst into shouts of laughter as they passed; while the
nurse, at least, of the party showed evidence of a like disposition.  Indeed, I think I did not mistake, while looking-back
upon the group, in seeing the fat sides and shoulders of the black
ladies themselves, notwithstanding their lofty bearing and stately
step, shake with merriment, under the slight drapery of their
fashionable and elegantly finished mantillas.




296               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
These may have been persons of wealth, and of respectable
and even fashionable position in society; for color does not fix
the social position here, as with us at home.  It is a striking fact,
that in a country where slavery exists in its most stringent form,
there is little of the Anglo-Saxon prejudice in this respect, so
universal in the United States. Condition, not color, regulates the
grades in social life. A slave is a menial, not because lie is black,
but because he is a slave.  In Brazil, all the avenues to wealth and
office are open to the free man of color, if he has character and
talents, and the ability to advance in them.  As I recollect to have
stated before, the officers of the standing army and of the municipal
guards and militia, exhibit every shade of color as they stand side
by side in their ranks; and I learn from Gov. Kent, that the leading lawyer of Rio is a mulatto. Some of the members of Congress,
too, bear evidence of negro blood; and the Governor says, that he
has met at the Imperial balls in the palace the " true ebony and
topaz" in " ladies and gentlemen black as jet,"' yet glittering,
like the rest, with diamonds.
As to the general treatment of slaves by their owners, it probably does not differ in Brazil from that exhibited wherever
there is irresponsible power. House-servants in Rio are said to
have easy times, and to do very much as they please; but to
judge by the instances I have seen of field laborers, I fear such
have but a sad and wearisome life.
The eventual effect of the abolition of the slave trade, will
doubtless be to ameliorate the treatment of the slaves, and particularly that of their children. In former years, when then the price
of a slave was only a hundred and twenty milreis, or about sixty
dollars, it seemed to have passed into a settled principle, as a
mere matter of profit and pecuniary calculation, that it was cheaper
to " se up' the blacks by constant hard labor, and by extorting
from them  the utmost profit, and when they sunk under it to
make new purchases, than to raise children or to extend the term
of service by more moderate labor; but now, when the price of
a slave has advanced to six and seven hundred dollars, the esti



CUSTOM  HOUSE REGULATIONS.                297
mates in the economy of the case will be different; and both
parents and children will fare better.
The incidental mention of the annoyance experienced by
Mr. ---- of San Aliexo, in getting admittance into the country
of the machinery requisite for the establishment of his factory,
except by the payment of enormous duties, reminds me of noting
some facts connected with the regulations of the Custom House
here, derived from authority on the subject so reliable as my
friend, the American Consul. These are a source of continual
disgust to foreigners, particularly to masters of vessels, and those
engaged in maritime matters.  They are fifty years behind the
age: reach to every minute particular, and seem to be framed
with especial reference to fines and penalties. Indeed, one of
the items in the annual estimates of expected receipts by the
government, is fines on foreign vessels; and to seize and fine,
appears to be a fixed purpose of the officials. A few pounds of
tea, a pig, cups and saucers, and other small articles of the kind,
not on the list of stores, or in the judgment of the visiting inspector an extra number for the size of the vessel, are at once
seized and sold at auction at the Custom House door, to swell
the receipts of the Imperial treasury. It is said that nothing but
a metallic substance, held before the eyes, or placed in the pallm
of the hands, will prevent these petty seizures.  Sometimes the
articles seized are of considerable worth, and, in addition to the
loss of their value, would lead to the imposition of a heavy fine.
No discrimination or distinction seems to be made between cases
of accident, ignorance, good faith and honest intentions, and those
of designed and evident attempts to smuggle or to evade the law.
It mlakes no difference whether there is more or less in the
shipment than the manifest calls for; if too much, then it is
evidence of a design to smuggle the excess-if too little, it is
evidence of fraud on the other side.  The bed they make is that
of Procrustes. If there is a barrel of flour-or any other article-more or less in the cargo than in the manifest, a forfeiture
and fine follow with unyielding certainty. One regulation is,
13-*




298               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
that a master shall give in a list of his stores within twenty-four
hours after his arrival. This, it is expected, will include every
thing.  But it is impossible to know to what extent at times the
regulation will be carried. In one instance, recently, a hawserwhich had been used, and was in a long coil on deck, ready for
immediate use again, and was necessary for the safe navigation
of the ship,-was seized, on the ground that it was not in the list
rendered.  The master remonstrated, and set forth the factsprotesting that he should as soon have included his masts and
boats, his anchors and cables, as this hawser; but all the authorities of the Custom House refused to give it up, and the vessel
sailed without it.  It was only after the question had been pending a long time before the higher authorities, on the strong
representation of the American Minister, that restoration to the
proper owners was made.
No person is allowed to go on board any vessel, before the
discharge of the cargo, without a custom house permit. A poor
sailor, a Greek by birth, who came here in an American vessel,
and was discharged at his own request, was passing an English
vessel in a boat a few days afterwards, and being thirsty, asked
for a drink of water: the man on board told him to come up the
side and get it.  He did so, and after drinking the water returned
to his boat.  A guard-boat saw and arrested him.  HIe pleaded
entire ignorance of the regulation of the port, but in vain: he
was fined a hundred milreis, and being unable to pay, was
sentenced to be imprisoned one hundred days, or at the rate of a
day for each milreis of the fine.  He was eventually released,
however, through the intervention of Gov. Kent.
Even the consul of a foreign nation must obtain a written
permit before he can visit a vessel of his own nation, till she is
discharged. The permit in any case is in force only for a single
day. It must, too, be stamped at a cost of eight cents. Indeed,
every paper of an official nature must be stamped. No note or
bill of exchange is valid, unless stamped within thirty days of its
date: the duty or the stamp beintg proport;oned to the amount




CHIARACTERISTIC WANT OF CONFIDENCE.    299
of the note or bill. The revenue derived by the government from
this source, is, of course, large.
The want of confidence, indicated by the minuteness and
rigid exactment of these custom-house regulations, is said to
be a characteristic trait of the people. There is great external
civility towards each other; many bows are exchanged, and
frequent pinches of snuff, and there is an abundance of polite
and complimentary speech; but, full and frank confidence in the
intentions, purposes and words of those with whom they deal,
seems to be greatly wanting.  Some light may be gained upon this
point from the fact that by public opinion, by the criminal code,
and by the actual administration of the law, offences against the
person are looked upon as of a higher grade than the crimen
falsi.  To strike a man in the street with the open palm, and
even under extreme provocation, is the great crime next to murder; and so of all offences against the person.  An assault is
considered an insult and an indignity, as well as a breach of the
peace.
Direct stealing is visited with condign punishment; but all the
crimes coming under the charge of obtaining money or goods
under false pretences, and those involving forgery, lying, deception
and fraud of all kinds, seem to meet with more lenient treatment.
Convictions in cases of such crimes are not often obtained, and
when they are, the sentences are very light. A short time ago,
a very congratulatory article was inserted in the newspapers
intended in perfect seriousness as a warning to evil doers, which
called public attention to the gratifying fact, that two men had
been convicted of gross perjury in swearing in court, and had each
been sentenced to imprisonment for one month!
It is but just, however, to say, that in no country is there
greater security for person and property.  Though petty theft is
not uncommon, robbery is almost unknown; and offences involving
violence, daring, and courage of a reckless kind, are very infrequent.
The recent trial of a foreigner on a charge of murder, gave




300                BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
me an opportunity of observing the process in the criminal court.
The preliminary measures after an arrest for crime, are somewhat
similar to those which are taken in like cases, before a magistrate
at home.  The party is arraigned and verbally examined by the
subdelegado, or justice of the district in which the crime charged
has been commited.  This examination is reduced to writing.
The accused is asked his age, his business, and other questions,
more or less varied and minute, at the discretion and pleasure of
the justice.  IHe is not compelled to answer, but his silence may
lead to unfavorable inferences against him.  After the examination of the prisoner himself, witnesses are examined. If these
are foreigners, the official translator of the government attends,
to translate the answers, all of which are written down by the
clerk. The witnesses are sworn on the Evangelists, the open
hand being placed on the book, but this is not kissed as with us
One custom struck me favorably, in comparison with the businesslike and mere matter of form  mode of administering an oath in
courts at home.  In every instance here, all rise-court, officers,
bar and spectators, and stand during the ceremony.  All rise,
too, and stand while the jury retires.
After the preliminary examination is completed, the magistrate
decides whether or not the accused shall be held for trial; and
submits the papers with his decision to a superior officer, who
usually confirms it, and the accused is imprisoned, or released on
bail.
It is only in criminal cases that a jury forms a part of the
judicial administration.  As with us, it consists of twelve men.
Forty-eight are summoned for the term; and the panel for each
trial is selected by lot, the names being dramwn by a boy, who
hands the paper to the presiding judge.  In capital cases, challenges are allowed, without the demand of cause.  The jury being
sworn and empanelled, the prisoner is again examined by the
judge, sometimes at great length and with great minuteness, not
only as to his acts, but to his motives.  The recomd of the former
proceedings, including all the testimony, is then read.  If either




PUBLIC EXECUTIONS IN BRAZIL.               301
party desire, the witnesses may be again examined, if present, but
they are not bound over, as with us, to appear at the trial.
Hence the examination of the accused and of the witnesses at
the preliminary process, is very important and material. In
many instances, the case is tried and determined entirely upon
the record, as it comes up.
After reading the record, the government introduces such
witnesses as it sees fit, and the prosecuting officer addresses the
jury. The defendant then introduces his witnesses, and his advocate addresses the jury, sometimes at considerable length.  The
prosecuting attorney, if he desires it again, speaks in reply; and
sonetimes the argument becomes rather colloquial and tart, the
questions and answers being bandied rather sharply.
The judge charges the jury briefly, and gives them a series
of questions in writing, to be answered on the return of thle
verdict.  The decision of the case is by majority-unanimity not
being required, even in criminal cases. The questions put by the
judge relate not merely to acts, but to motives, character, and
other things, which may extenuate or aggravate the offence and
sentence, and cover usually the whole case in all direct and remote
accessories. A case begun, is always finished without an adjournment of the court, though it should continue through the day
and entire night.
In the arrangement of the court-room, the judge with his
clerk sits on one side, and the prosecuting officer on the other;
the jury at semi-circular tables on either side.  Two tribunes are
erected, one at the end of each table, for the lawyers engaged in
the case; these usually address the jury sitting. The lawyers
not engaged in the suit in hand, are accommodated in a kind of
pew, under the gallery, which a stranger would be likely, at first,
to take for the criminal's box or bar.
Public executions very seldom occur. There seems to be a
repugnance to the taking of human life, if there is any possible
chance to substitute imnprisonment for life, or a term of years.
Every point of excuse or mitigation is seized upon.  One cannot




302              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
wonder at this, when he regards the mode of capital punishment,
the barbarous and revolting one of Portugal and Spain-a relic
of barbarism, in which the condemned is ordered up a ladder
under the gallows, and then forced to jump off, when another man
immediately ascending, mounts the shoulders of the poor wretch,
and jumps up and down upon him, with his hand over his mouth
till he is dead. Those who have witnessed it, represent it as a
most awful and revolting spectacle.  This executioner is usually
a criminal condemned himself to death, who is allowed to live by
agreeing to perform the savage act when required. The old
Portuguese custom  of gratifying every wish of the condemned,
as to food and clothing, is still retained; and for the twenty-four
hours preceding his execution, the poorest black slave can order
whatever in these respects his fancy dictates: segars, and wine,
and luxuries of every kind are at his command.
MONTEVIDEO.
January 30th.-Intelligence from the Plata led to the return
of the Congress to this place, on the 24th inst.  Mr. Schenck,
American Minister at the court of Brazil, came passenger with us,
as the guest of Commodore McKeever.
During the three months of our absence, public interest, in
political and military affairs, has been gradually centering at
Buenos Ayres.  The siege of Montevideo being raised, and the
Argentine troops which had so long invested her having become
part and parcel of the army of Urquiza, and been withdrawn by
him to the territory of which he is captain-general, preparations
have been in gradual process for a demonstration against Rosas,
by the combined forces of Entre Rios and Brazil. Aware of this,
every effort has been made by the wary Dictator, to rally his partisans, to give fresh force to the prestige of his name, and to excite
the popular feeling in his favor. To aid in this, all the winning
power of his accomplished daughter, has been brought forward.
To afford better room  for its exercise, a public ball of great
magnificence was given at the new opera-house in Buenos Ayres.




INVASION OF BUENOS AYRES.               303
At this, Dona Manuelita held a kind of court; and, after having
received throughout its course the homage of a queen, was, at its
close, drawn in a triumphal car, by the young men of the city, to
the governmental mansion. New levies of troops had been raised
and drilled, and the whole city and country placed under martial
law.
A fortnight ago, Urquiza and the allied army of thirty thousand, crossed the Parana without opposition; and, invading the
province of Buenos Ayres, advanced within twenty miles of the
city. It is now a week since Rosas, leaving Palermo at the head
of twenty thousand soldiers, took the field in person, to oppose his
further progress. It is said that previous to the march, Dona
Manuelita, attired in a riding-dress of scarlet velvet embroidered
with gold, and splendidly mounted, reviewed the troops; and, like
Queen Elizabeth on the approach of the Spauish Armada, delivered to them an animated and inspiriting address.
A crisis, it is evident, is not far distant; and all is intense
expectation.  The universal impression is, that Rosas must fall.
It is believed that there is treachery around him. An advance
guard, in command of Pachecho, one of his best generals, has
been defeated under circumstances which leads to the belief that,
like Oribe at Montevideo, this officer had a secret understanding
with Urquiza; a-nd that the issue at Buenos Ayres will speedily
be the same as that which occurred here four months ago —the
triumph of Urquiza, through the desertion to him of the opposing soldiery.
This state of affairs led Mr. Schenck and  Commodore
MlcKeever, with Secretary G-, to proceed at once to Buenos
Ayres. Captain Taylor of the marines was of the party, a company
from the guard of the Congress under his command having, with
Lieut. Holmes, been ordered to Buenos Ayres by the Commodore
for the protection of American citizens and their property,
in case of the overthrow of the existing power. As the crew are
to have general liberty on shore here, during the passing fortnight-a time when my vocation for good seems to be suspended,




304              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
an)d which, both on shipboard and on shore, is to me ever one of
trial-I was urged much to accompany the party. Two reasons,
however, forbade this-one, the still precarious state of a lad,
who, the day we entered the river, fell from a height of ninetysix feet to the deck, without being killed outright; and the other,
an engagement to officiate at the marriage of Dr. W  -, one of
the assistant surgeons of the Congress, to my friend, GH —, a daughter of the American Consul. This is appointed
for the 5th of February, till when, at least, I must remain at
M ontevideo.
I have been twice only on shore-once with Captain Pearson,
to accompany him in an official call; and again, one afternoon for
a short walk. I had not intended being away from the ship more
than an hour; but, shortly after attempting to return, when not a
half mile from the shore, a furious tempest came rushing upon us.
There was no alternative but to return to the landing before it.
It was so sudden and so violent, that before the boat could well
be secured within the mole by the crew, the whole bay was in a
foam, and a heavy sea rolling over it.  It was impossible to comnmunicate with the ship the next day; and the following night was
still more tempestuous.  The hotels of the city afford but indifferent accommodations; and I availed myself in the detention
of the ever free hospitality of Mr. F —.  I improved the
opportunity, too, by calling on the various families of the British
Church before I should meet them again at the services of the
chapel on the Sabbath.  The last day, however, was taken
up wholly in reading with absorbing and affecting interest, a
manuscript loaned me by Mr. Lafone, and recently received by
him from Terra del Fuego.  I mentioned, under a date at Rio
six months or nine ago, the arrival there of H. B. M. ship Dido,
on her way to the Pacific, with orders from the admiralty to
visit Terra del Fuego and the adjacent small islands, in search
of a conllipny of missionaries who had gone  from  England
the year previous, but from whom nothing had been heard. A
schooner chartered by Mr. Lafone, and sent by him about that




MISSION TO TERRA DEL FUEGO.                 305
time with the same object, anticipated the errand of the man-ofwar, with melancholy result.  The whole party, consisting of
Captain Gardiner of the Royal Navy, Mr. Williams, a physician,
lir. MIaidenant, a catechist, and four boatmen, perished from
hunger and exposure, in the inclemency of tile last winter there.
The graves of some were found, and the unburied bodies of the
rest.  Among the effects is the full journal of Mr. Williams, from
the time of his departure from  England, till within a few days,
as is supposed, of the death of the whole.*
Their object was the conversion and civilization of the poor
degraded savages of those dreary and forbidding regions.  Though
Captain Gardiner, the projector and leader of the enterprise, had
navigated the waters of Cape Horn, and become familiar with
the region while on service in the navy, he was ignorant of the
language of the natives, and was without an interpreter. Failing
to establish friendly relations with the brutish people, the whole
party became impressed with the idea, either with or without
sufficient cause, that their lives were in jeopardy from them; and,
abandoning the shore, in a great measure, they took to the water
in frail and ill-appointed boats. In these they fled from bay to bay,
and from islet to islet, till worn out with fatigue and exhaustecl
from want of food, they fell victims to sickness, starvation, and
death.  Mr. Willianis, to whose journal the remark I first made
refers, abandoned, at very short notice, a handsome practice in his
profession, a choice circle of friends, and a happy home in
England, for the enterprise of philanthropy in which lie so soon
perished.  From the record he has left it is evident that he was
a deeply experienced and  devout Christian: simple-minded,
frank, and pure in heart.  In this faithful diary, every thought
and feeling of his inmost soul seems fully unbosomed.  His faith
never failed him, under the most afflictive and dispiriting trials;
and his soul continued to be triumphantly joyous amidst the
niost grievous destitution and suffering of the body.  I read the
* See Memoir of Richard Williams, published by the Messrs. Carter.




306              RRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
details of the journal as penned in the original manuscript by
such a man with intense interest; and came off to the ship, deeply
impressed in mind and heart, with the sadness of the tragedy
which put an end to the record.




CHAP T E R XXV.
BUENos AYRES.
February 12th. —Public events here, for the last few days,
have been more exciting in their progress, and more important in
their issues, than any that have occurred on the Plata for many
years.  On the evening of the 4th inst., the Hon. Mr. Schenck
arrived from Buenos Ayres on his return to Brazil.  He boarded
the Congress from the steamer in which he came, announcing, as
he crossed the gangway, the utter overthrow of Rosas by Urquiza,
"foot, horse and dragoons!" as he expressed it.  This had
occurred on the morning of the preceding day. He left the city
the same evening, when thousands of mounted troops were pouring
through it in rapid flight, before the victorious pursuers. It was
not yet known whether Rosas had fallen in battle, was a prisoner,
or had made a safe escape.
Before the arrival in Buenos Ayres of Mr. Schenck and
Commodore MIcKeever, he had left for the camp, ten miles distant;
and they did not see him. They were twice at Palermo, however,
on visits to Dona Manuelita; once before any collision between
the hostile forces had taken place; and again on the evening of
the Ist inst., when it was known that an advanced guard of six
thousand Buenos Ayrean troops, under General Pachecho, had
been routed the day previous, and the general made prisoner' a
foreboding shadow of the coming event.  Till then, Manuelita had




308              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
sustained her position with great spirit and energy; receiving all
visitors-official, diplomatic, and private-as usual, in the saloons
of the Quinta, and conducting with ability and despatch the
affairs of the HIome Department of the government.  Toward
the close of the last named evening, however, when surrounded
by those only who were in her immediate confidence, tears might
occasionally be seen trembling in her eye, or stealing down her
cheek; but only to be dashed away on the approach of any from
whom she would conceal the weakness.  It was now well known
to her that a general and decisive battle might at any hour take
place; and that Palermo, immediately in the line of march from
the point of contest to the city, was no longer a place of safety
for her.  The night was one of splendid moonlight in midsummer,
and among others, Commodore McKeever and lMr. Schenck remained with her till a late hour of the evening. Before they
left, a walk in the flower-garden was proposed by her; and, taking the arm of lMr. Schenck, she led the way to the rose-covered
arbor mentioned in my visit last year.  Standing within it in
silence for a few moments, she said-" This is my choicest retreat
at Palermo; it is here that I come alone, to be alone; and I am
here now for the last time, perhaps forever! " adding, as the tears
fell rapidly down her face, upturned to the moon, as if in appeal to
Heaven for her sincerity, " I leave Palermo to-night! Whatever
the issue of the morrow is to be, I know our cause to be just, and
believe that God will give to it success! "  In this, however, she
was mistaken.  That cause, the next day but one, was utterly defeated; and the following midnight witnessed her flight with
her father disguised as an English marine, and she in the dress
of a sailor boy-not from Palermo only, but from  her city and
country, without even a change of clothes, to find safety and a
conveyance to distant exile, under the protection of the British
flag.
But this is anticipating the order of events. Rumors of the
defeat, on the 1st instant, of the vanguard of the army of Rosas,
or some disaster of the kind, reached the city on  Sunday




PILLAGE OF BUENOS AYRES.                309
evening, the 2d inst.-the night on which Manuelita forsook
Palermo.  It produced little impression on the public mind,
however; and on Monday the shops were open, and general
business transacted as usual. At daybreak on Tuesday, heavy
cannonading was heard for several hours in the direction of
the opposing armies.  Early afterwards, whispers of a defeat
were afloat; and a straggling cavalry soldier here and there,
soon followed by others, in groups of three and four, began
to enter the city. The excitement spread rapidly, till three guns
fiom the citadel-the signal for martial law-confirmed the report
of the overthrow, and led at once to the shutting up of every
shop, and the closing of every door. The retreating cavalry now
rushed through the town by hundreds, and soon by thousands,
hastening from harm's way to their homes in the pampas of the
South. General Mancilla, the brother-in-law of Rosas, and governor of the city, despatched messengers to the foreign ambassadors, reporting the place to be defenceless, and soliciting their
intervention with the approaching conqueror, for a halt in his
march, till termhs of capitulation could be presented. Permission
was at the same time granted by him, for the landing of the
marines attached to the different foreign squadrons in the harbor,
to protect the lives and property of residents from their respective countries —British, American, French, and Sardinian.
Forty American marines, including those from the Congress,
were disembarked from the Jamestown, under the command of
Captain Taylor and Lieut. Tatnall, and the crew of the captain's
gig, in charge of Midshipman Walker.  These were distributed
in the central and richest part of the town-at the Embassy and
Consulate of the United States; at the residence of Mr. Carlisle
of the house of Zimmerman, Frazer & Co., the head-quarters of
Commodore McKeever; and one or two other principal American
mercantile establishments.  At the same time, a hasty consultation of the diplomatic corps led to the sending of a deputation
from their number to the head-quarters of Urquiza, in behalf of
the city. The chief member of this was Mr. Pendleton. Mr.




310               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
Glover, the secretary of our commander-in-chief, an accomplished
young man, well fitted for the service by his talents, and the
facility with which he speaks the principal modern languages,
formed one of the mission.  The special object was to solicit from
the victorious chieftain an order to restrain his troops from
entering the city, till the authorities could make a formal surrender to him, and thus spare the inhabitants the violence and
rapine they had reason to fear. Happily the exhaustion of the
victors rendered such an order, for the time, unnecessary. The
whole force of thirty thousand men had been without refreshment
of any kind, except, perhaps, a little water, for forty-eight hours;
and, after having put their opponents to flight, they found it
absolutely necessary to come to a rest themselves, not far from
the scene of the principal conflict.
It was not till noon of the following day, that Urquiza
reached  Palermo, and  established  his head-quarters there.
Here the deputation first met him, and readily secured the interposition of his authority in the point of mercy craved. Notwithstanding this, early the same morning-that immediately succeeding the battle-before any thing had been heard from the deputation, the sack of the city in one quarter was reported to have
commenced; and, in confirmation of the rumor, the alarm-bell
of the Cabildo, or town hall, sent forth an incessant peal. It
appeared that a large number of the routed cavalry of Rosas,
finding the pursuit by the victors given over, remained in
the outskirts of the town during the night; and at the dawn of
the next day, commenced breaking open the shops and houses in
the more remote parts, and stripping them of their contents, bore
off the plunder; alleging the authority of Manucilla himself, the
governor of the city, for the outrage.  The dress of the troops
of both armies is the same; red flannel shirts, caps, and cheripas
or swaddling cloths.  Those of Urquiza, that they might be distinguished by each other in battle, had chosen for a badge a square
piece of white cotton cloth, placed on the shoulders by thrusting
the head through a hole in the centre, in the manner of a poncho.




CHECKED BY THE AMERICAN MARINES.              311
This badge these marauders assumed that they might be mistaken for the invading soldiery. Emboldened by success in the
outskirts, they began to penetrate the central parts of the place.
The terrified inhabitants believing them to be the invaders, submitted unresistingly to rapine and spoliation, lest they should
lose their lives; and consternation spread every where with the
increasing violence and robbery. Many of the largest and most
valuable plate and jewelry shops had already been sacked; and
the_ spirit of plunder grew in proportion to the success.
At this juncture, while a party of twenty or thirty of these
mounted pillagers was engaged in bursting off the door-locks of a
rich jeweller's shop with powder, a company of American marines
and sailors, in charge of Midshipman Walker, accompanied by Mr.
Graham, the American Consul, on their way to the chief scene of
pillage-turned into the street near them. The robbers at once
fired upon them, happily without injury to any one. Our fellows,
under the authority of their officers, were not slow in returning
the salute; bringing to the ground, by one volley, four of the
leading brigands, Two were killed outright, and two mortally
wounded. The rest wheeled instantly in flight, and were seen no
more.  This first example of the manner by which to check the
pillage, led at once to a rally by the citizens. They immediately
commenced arming themselves, and a stay was put to the progress
of what, in a short time, would have become a general sack of
the town.
Mr. Glover arrived the same moment, at the consulate near
which the above scene took place, to report the success of the mission on which he had accompanied Mr. Pendleton. He had passed
a sleepless night, and been in the saddle many hours; but, as there
was reason to fear that the check which had been put by our
marines upon the pillage, would be but temporary, and that the
marauders would soon return in augmented numbers to avenge
the death of their comrades, as well as to load themselves with
fresh booty, he was requested by Commodore MecKeever to return
immediately to Palermo, and solicit from Urquiza a force sufficient




312               BRAZIL ANTD LA PLATA.
to control the disorder and robbery existing. The Chief of
Police, ant the same tinme made his appearance, to urge the same
measure.  Accompanied by this functionary, Mr. Glover, therefore, again hastened as an express to the Quinta.  He was admitted  immediately to the chieftain, though his companion, the
Chief of Police, was forbidden his presence. The object of his
visit was accorded, by an instant order for the entrance to the
city of a body of troops sufficient for its protection.  Informed
of the result of the rencontre with the American marines and
sailors, he gave full sanction to the interference, and authorized its
continuance. The report of this interview was quickly spread
through the city; and the patrol of the foreign marines and
armed sailors, and the speedy arrival of the forces promised by
Urquiza, allayed the panic of the inhabitants.
The troops of Urquiza brought with them  orders to shoot
down all persons implicated in the robbery and disorder.  This
was reiterated by the Provisional Government appointed by him
upon receiving, as soon as he had taken up his quarters at Palermo,
the deputation from the city, empowered to surrender it to his
mercy.  Under the orders tlhus issued, three or four hundred persons, both men and women, were summarily put to death, within
twenty-four hours; and a scene of such frightful carnage was
taking place, with the liberty of its continuance for eight days,
that the humanity of Mr. Pendleton led him, accompanied by MIr.
Glover, to hasten once more to head-quarters, to beseech that an
immediate stop might be put to a slaughter in which it was so
apparent that the innocent, through false accusations of robbery,
might become the victims of their political and even private enemies.  The good sense of Urquiza led him  at once to appreciate
the justice of this appeal to his humanity, and to countermand
the order first issued. The alarm was thus quieted, and a general
feeling of safety restored.
It is quite a matter of congratulationl with us, that the marines
and sailors of the Congress and Jamestown, should have been
so eminently the means, by their prompt and gallant conduct, of




VISIT OF LIEUT. TURNER.                313
staying a frightful evil; and, that the prestige of the American
name, through the frank and philanthropic agency of Mr. Pendleton and Mr. Glover, should have had such ready and such important influence with the victor, now invested by right of conquest
with all power here.
These particulars I leained before leaving Montevideo, from
my friend Lieut. Turner.  This officer was despatched to Buenos
Ayres by Captain Pearson, immediately after the report made
by Mr. Schenck of the overthrow of the Dictator.  He went in
charge of the American propeller, " Manuelita de Rosas," which
the emergency of affairs and the absence of every suitable tender
of the kind in the squadron, led Commodore MIcKeever to charter for the time being.  He arrived in the midst of the excitement and consternation of the second day after the battle, when
the pillage was at its height, and the sumnmary execution of the
perpetrators by the troops of Urquiza was begun. Being a fellow Virginian and a friend of Mr. Pendleton, he was invited
to a seat in a carriage with him and Mr. Glover, on their last
mission of humanity to Palermo; and thus was a spectator in
the city and its environs, and at the Quinta itself, of a succession
of scenes of alarm and confusion, of bloodshed and affecting
tragedy in various forms, which it is not often the lot even of
a naval officer to witness. The city, containing more than a hundred thousand inhabitants, was under pillage and in panic; the
wide suburbs were thronged with ten thousand savage troops,
dashing to and fro in various directions; the bodies of dead men
were scattered about, after having been shot down, or having their
throats cut, not in the conflict of battle, but in wanton pursuit, or by order of a drum-head court-martial; women in common life were rushing here and there in terror, and ladies of
wealth and rank hastening in their carriages through these scenes,
in agitation and affright, to the centre of power, to throw themselves at the feet of the conqueror, in supplication for the lives
and fortunes of those dearest to them.
It was in the carriage of Madame E -, a sister of the fallen
14




314              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
Dictator, that the party made the excursion. This lady herself made one of their number; and, under the favoring auspices
of the American minister, sought the presence of the chief, who
now occupies the palace, and wields the power, so long and so
recently in the undisputed possession of her brother.  The avenues and corridors of Palermo were crowded with mothers, sisters,
and daughters, pressing for audience, on like errands of mercy.
The suits of many of whom, I am happy to add, were not in
vain, but most promptly and generously accorded. Such were
the scenes amidst which Mr. Turner passed his first day here.
Those of the second, in a ride of fifteef miles, to the battle-field,
under the guidance of an adjutant and the protection of a guard
furnished by Urquiza., were, if possible, more exciting and more
revolting to the feelings, and scarcely bearable in the disgust
created. The whole way was marked with evidences of the completeness of the overthrow; and the scene of the conflict, strewn
for miles with the bodies of the slain lying still unburied.  The
whole atmosphere was tainted with the effluvia of the dead, both
of man and beast, and sad demonstration given on every side of
the horrors of war.
It was his representation of the state of affairs that led methe marriage of my friends Miss   --- and Dr. Rl-  having
been duly celebrated, and the crew of the Congress still in the
process of a general liberty-to the determination of making the
visit of a few days. I came up in the propeller, still bearing
a naval pennant: embarking on the evening of the 10th, and
arriving the next morning.
On landing, I found every hotel and lodging-house crowded
to overflowing, with officers, naval and military, both natives and
foreigners, and with strangers from various quarters, who had
hastened to the capital on hearing the result of the conflict.
After long search, I was able to secure a small sleeping-room
only, in a public house of very inferior order; and suffered so
much during the night from the oppressive heat, fleas, and musquitos, as to have made up my mind by morning, to return to the




PALERMO IN NEW  ASPECTS.               315
Congress the same day. During my former visit, I had made the
acquaintance of the Rev. Mr. Lore and Mrs. Lore, of the Wesleyan Methodist mission here, and had been so much interested
in them by the brief intercourse, as to be unwilling to take my
departure now without a call at the parsonage, of a few minutes
at least. Here I was most cordially welcomed; and the cause of
my intended return becoming known, they at once laid an interdict upon my purpose, and constrained me to accept a room in
the parsonage, in their power to offer, and the kind hospitality
of their house.
I had brought with me from the Congress, with the purpose
of affording him a peep at Buenos Ayres, one of the lads of the
ship, who had been commended to my special care by an excellent
widowed mother at home, and who had merited this indulgence
by long-continued good conduct in his position on board ship. His
leave of absence extended to the passing day only; and, knowing
that he was especially anxious to visit Palermo, I applied to Mr.
Lore, as soon as it had been determined that I should remain,
for aid in securing a vehicle to take the drive with him. This he
at once gave; but in place of a carriage from a livery stable, as
I intended, he soon appeared with the handsome equipage of one
of his parishioners, and accompanied us in the excursion.
The morning was excessively hot-the character of the
weather for the last fortnight. No rain had fallen in that time,
and the road was one continued bed of deep dust, kept in constant motion by the thousand and ten thousands of horses and
cattle, which the large force in bivouac in the environs of the
city had brought together. It is computed that on the day of the
battle, and for some days succeeding it, there were not less than
three hundred thousand horses, within the circuit of a few
miles, around the city.  The number of cattle may be estimated by the allowance granted to the troops for subsistenceone animal a day for every hundred men: the number of men in
both armies, the conquering and the conquered; amounts to
more than fifty thousand, and the daily consumption, therefore,




316               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
is at least five hundred.  It would, require pages to describe the
novelty and wild romance of the scenes witnessed in our short
drive. The riding at full tilt, to and fro, of unnumbered Indianlike horsemen in the picturesque and fiery costume of the native
cavalry; the flying past of carriages in one direction or another,
through the thick dust of the road; the lassoing of cattle amidst
the herds crowding the open plain; the butchering them when
entangled, wherever that might be-even in the middle of the
highway; and flaying them  while still alive, and scarcely well
brought to the ground; the masses of hides, and horns, and
offal scattered about every where; some freshly stripped from
the carcasses and others in a shocking state of putrefaction;
the hundreds of loose horses scampering about amid clouds of
dust; and unnumbered savage men, in all attitudes, and in every
kind of grouping, presented sights beyond the power of description.
As we approached the Quinta, such objects became, if possible, more varied and more crowded: while dead horses and dead
cattle lined the road-side, and in some places dotted the ornamental canals of the domain with their bloated carcasses. The
white shell-dust of that, which was once the private drive, covered every thing so thickly, that the iron railings, now bent and
broken down, the orange trees and willows, once kept so neatly
washed and so green, appeared as if just powdered with meal.
Indeed, the aspect of every thing in this respect, was very much
that of a landscape at home after a fall of snow, while the trees
and their branches are still in leaf.  The house itself —though
surrounded, as when last seen by me, with guards and soldiery,
and in the same dress; and by a long line of carriages and led
horses awaiting the visitors within —had a closed and forsaken air.
The reception rooms occupied by Urquiza, are not in the front,.
Those there, in which we had been received, with blinds drawn,
and shutters closed, appeared as though death, as well as desertion,
was there.  It was not our purpose to alight; and, after a general survey of the establishment as we drove by, we returned to
the city amidst the same scenes through which we had arrived.




URQUIZA  AT  PALERMIO.                317
The next evening I joined a large party of American ladies
and gentlemen, residents of Buenos Ayres, in a visit of ceremony
to Urquiza at Palermio.  Notwithstanding the pressure of military
and state affairs in the disposition of his troops, and the appointment of a provisional government for the city and province, he
has been constrained to hold an almost uninterrupted levee, for
the reception of the crowds whose interest it is to pay court to
him.  Many of the most servile of the partisans of Rosas have
done this in the most sycophantic manner; and many of them, I
have rejoiced to hear, only to meet his ill-concealed contempt and
pointed rebuke, by a refusal to recognize their presence in some
instances, and by prompt and stern dismissal from the audienceroom in others.  One incident which occurred interested me
much.  Col. Maximo Terero, the favorite aide-de-camp of Rosas,
and the affianced husband of Doia Manuelita, was made prisoner
on the day of the battle.  It was believed by many-judging of
the course Urquiza would pursue in the case, by the sanguinary
precedents of Rosas and other successful aspirants in the past
history of the country-that he, and such others of the immediate
partisans of the Dictator as had fallen into his hands, would be
severely dealt with, if not summarily shot.  Contrary to all expectation, Col. Terero was at once set at liberty on parole.
Touched by this magnanimity, Gen. Terero the father, a confidential friend of Rosas, and long his partner in extensive
financial operations, hastened to  Palermo to wait upon the
commander-in-chief, and to thank him for the clemency and kindness he had shown to his son.  He approached him with the
following words, "' Gen. Urquiza, I have come to Palermo to
tender to you the unfeigned thanks of a father, for sparing the
life of a son, whose life and liberty were in your power.  You
have, sir, my most sincere and heartfelt gratitude.  I thank you
from the bottom of my heart. I am known to you as the friend
of General Rosas.  He long since won my confidence, has long
had my warm friendship, and I have never seen cause for withdrawing these fiom him."  The frankness and independence of




318              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
this address met an appreciating spirit in Urquiza; and seizing
him  cordially by the hand, he exclaimed, " Gen. Terero, I am
most happy to see you. I am glad to hear you express yourself
as you have. I believe what you say-yours is the first honest
speech I have heard in Palermo; and I honor you for it."
At the time of our presentation by Mr. Pendleton the saloons
and corridors were crowded; and the audience was brief, and, on
the part of the General, unavoidably constrained. He wore
a dress-coat of black, with white waistcoat; and, though polite
and gentlemanly, ap]peared to much less advantage and less at
home in the drawing-room, than on the tented field of Pantanoso.
He appeared, too, to be jaded and exhausted; which he indeed
must be, after the fatigue and excitement without intermission
of the last fortnight.  At the end of fifteen minutes we took
leave; and after a turn along the parterres of the flower-garden,
drove rapidly to the city, to escape a gust of wind and rain which
was seen to be gathering with great blackness, in a threatening
quarter.
On Friday, I made a visit to the hospital, in which most of
the wounded of both parties are now collected, to the number
of five or six hundred.  The accommodations, in ordinary times,
are limited and indifferent, and are now altogether inadequate.
The surgeons and physicians are too few for the duty, and the
services of Dr. Foltz, of the U. S. sloop Jamestown, have been
gratefully accepted. The wounds of many of the poor creatures
are frightful; especially those caused by grape and round shot.
From the heat of the weather, and the length of time that elapsed
after the battle before they could be properly attended to, such
are now in a dreadful condition. Those made by lances are chiefly
from behind, and show frightful thrusts on the part of the pursuers. Many of the wounded have died daily; and the state of
many more is hopeless. The edifice appropriated as a hospital
is itself spacious and massive, and is of special interest, from
having been the residencia or palace of the viceroys of Buenos
Ayres.  Mr. Lore took me a ride also, the same morning, through




ENGLISH BURIAL GROUND.                  319
the suburbs, in a semicircular sweep from one end of the city to
the other-the base-line of the circuit being the river.  There
is little to interest one in the scenery, the whole is so flat; and
the road was but a succession of dry and dirty lanes, lined by
mean and shabby huts.  We called in the eastern suburbs
upon an English family, parishioners of Mr. Lore, who occupy
and cultivate as a fruit and vegetable garden, the grounds of
what appears once to have been a tasteful and luxurious countryseat.  We were most kindly received, and refreshed with some
very fine peaches and grapes, the former the last gatherings of
the season. The situation is an exposed one in times of public
commotion and disorder; and we were shown a cavern, screened
and hidden almost beyond discovery, where the females of the
household were to have been concealed, had the city, in the overthrow of Rosas, been given over to pillage and rapine. In one
part of the enclosure, a natural terrace attains a height of about
twenty feet above the general level. To this I was led as one of
the finest points of view in the neighborhood. The extent of the
landscape commanded from it was less than a mile, across a flat
meadow, bounded at that distance by a range of tree-tops, above
which rose the masts of some small craft at anchor in a stream,
whose banks the trees line. I could scarcely avoid a smile in
hearing this called a " fine view," while in imagination my eye
swept, in comparison, over that spread before you in such wide
expanse at Riverside. In the course of our ride, we visited the
English Protestant burial-ground; a rural cemetery on the southside of the city. It embraces several acres, surrounded by a
substantial wall, entered by a handsome gateway of iron; and
has a lodge for the keeper, and a small, well-built chapel for the
funeral service. Besides a variety of prettily-arranged shrubberies, it is ornamented with two or three avenues of the Pride
of China, which grows here in great perfection: the whole forming
an attractive and rural resting-place for the dead.
The observations of the day were completed by the inspection,
under the guidance of Mr. Graham, of the new city residence of




320               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
Rosas.  It is already in possession of the provisional government appointed by Urquiza, and its elegant saloons are converted
into offices for the various public bureaus. It is an extensive
and finely-constructed edifice,,one story in height, enclosing
several quadrangles, and covering half a square; the front extends the length of a " block " on a principal street near the
centre of the city.  The middle section of this contains the
suite of private rooms of the late owner. From these the furniture had been removed, preparatory to the sale of all his effects.
The structure, though of one story only on the streets, rises
to two in some of the inner sections. The whole is well built,
and, for this part of the world, beautifully finished.  One of
the inner courts is filled with orange trees, and another contains
a garden of choice flowers.  A  lofty tower or mirador rises
from  the centre.   This is ascended by a spiral staircase of
mahogany.  The view  from it comprises, as on a map, the city,
river, roadstead and shipping; and the country in every direction
as far as its flatness allows the vision to reach.  It conveys a
strong impression of the size, good order, and architecture of the
city. Every prominent building is in conspicuous view: all the
old Spanish churches-the Cathedral, the Merced, the collegiate,
or former Jesuit College, that of San Francisco, San Domingo
and San Miguel; and the Residencia or vice-regal palace, now
the general hospital.  All these are of dark stone, and are timestained and moss-covered: massive and enduring piles, with many
attractive features in the varied taste and symmetry of their architecture, and in the well-defined proportions of dome and tower,
pediment and belfry. The lantern top of this look-out is furnished
with a fine telescope, by which every object is subjected to near
inspection; and it was a favorite resort of the Dictator, during his
hours of seclusion in town. One story of the tower leading to
this observatory, is a handsomely proportioned apartment, paved
with tessellated marble of red and white. It is said to have been
the favorite sleeping-rooml  of Rosas, when he remained in the
city over night, being secure from approach except by the spiral




GOVERNMENT HOUSE.                    321
stairs, which could be easily defended. A fixture in one of the
galleries of an open court into which the chief suites of rooms
open, particularly struck me as a novelty: it is a fireplace with
a grate and handsomely finished marble mantle, so that, if one
choose, he may sit by a fireside in the open air, when the
temperature makes it desirable.
As I looked around upon the spacious and well-appointed
establishment, through which Dora Manuelita, a few days since,
moved a princess, surrounded by luxury, and oppressed with
the adulations of courtiers and admirers, I could not but anew
deeply sympathize with her, in her flight and exile, with scarce
a change of apparel, or a friend to cheer her under her reverse
of fortune.
On leaving, we made an effort to gain admission to the Sala,
or hall of Representatives near by, and to the public library of the
city; but without success, from the absence of the persons having
possession of the keys.  A Porteno-ra name by which the Buenos
Ayreans pride themselves in being called-of intelligent and
gentlemanlike appearance, on overhearing our application for
admittance to the library and the cause of its failure, said pleasantly to us, " It is well for the credit of the city that the kev
cannot be found; we are thus saved a just reproach in the eyes
of intelligent visitors."
14*




HIAPTER XXVI.
BUENOS AYRES.
Febrvuary 24th.-On Saturday, I accompanied a large party
of ladies and gentlemen, Americans and English, in a visit to the
scene of the late battle.  It is called indiscriminately, "Monte
Caseros," from  the name of the country-house at which Rosas
took position in meeting the enemy, and " Moron," from that of
the nearest hamlet, a mile or two distant.
We were off at an early hour. The morning was brilliant,
and delightful in its freshness: almost too cool, in contrast with
the excessive heat of the first few days after my arrival. The
road we took led past several country-seats in the suburbs, at
which the victorious troops were still quartered. Their horses
and camp-fires had made sad havoc with the shrubberies and
plantations of these; many of the trees being terribly barked by
the former, while their limbs had been stripped off and cut up for
muel by the latter.  Bivouac after bivouac, and rude encampment
after encampment, extended miles beyond Palermo; while the
road on either side, and often in its centre, presented the aspect
of a continued slaughter house-the hoofs, horns, hides and entrails of the animals daily slain for the subsistence of the soldiery,
being scattered about every where, and polluting the air with their
offensive effluvia.   The whole distance of fifteen miles, gave




BATTLE FIELD OF MONTE CASEROS.              323
evidence of the desolating effects of the retreat of the vanquished,
and of the marauding presence of the victors.
At the end of twelve miles, we came upon the military village
of Santos Lugares, composed of brick huts, the regular cantonment of the army, from whicn Rosas had led his force of twenty
thousand to Monte Caseros, on the evening of the 1st instant.
This seemed now, literally, a " deserted village:" every building
being vacant, with the appearance of having suffered utter pillage.
It has its church, and an extensive common, or green, ornamented
at one point by a clump of ombu, a species of gum-tree-the chief
emblem of'the country. Shortly after passing this, we caught
view in the distance of the white tower of Monte Caseros, the
head-quarters of Rosas at the commencement of the battle. Its
mirador, or observatory, commands a view of the surrounding
region; and from it he watched the advance of Urquiza, and for
a time, the progress of the engagement. He then descended to
the field, and took part in the fight, till it was evident the day
was lost. Persuaded of this, he seized a cartridge from the box
of a common soldier; breaking it in pieces, he blackened his
face with the powder, and mounting a magnificent horse, in readiness near by, succeeded in making his escape amid the dust and
uproar of the general rout.  He made his way without being
recognized, to the residence of the British minister in the city.
There his daughter joined him, and under the guidance of that
gentleman both sought refuge at midnight, in the disguise before
mentioned, on board the flag-ship of Admiral Henderson.
Evidences of the conflict, or rather of the flight and pursuit,
now began rapidly to multiply, in tattered portions of clothing
and in accoutrements-caps, sword-belts, cartridge-boxes, bayonet-sheaths, cuirasses, and broken musical instruments, and
drums. What seemed the most singular part of this camp equipage, was the quantity of letters and manuscript papers, scattered widely and for great distances over the ground. Soon the
more revolting spectacle of a dead body presented itself here and
there, naked and ghastly, blackening in the sun, in a frightful




324               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
state of decomposition, and tainting. the whole atmosphere by its
impurity. These multiplied rapidly as we advanced; none of
the slain of either party having yet been buried, excepting such
as have been sought for and discovered by personal friends. The
brick walls of the country-house and those of a large circular
dove-cote, of the same material, whitewashed, are a good deal
marked and shattered by balls both of cannon and musketry.
After Rosas had left the observatory and the house, a strong
party of his officers kept possession of them. When the battle
seemed to be given up, it was supposed by the victors that these,
like others outside, had surrendered; but on attempting to enter,
they were met by a volley of musketry, with the cry of " Viva
Rosas!"  This led to an immediate onslaught by the assailants;
and every man within, amounting to thirty or forty, was at once
put to the sword.  Till within a day or two past, their bodies lay
piled upon each other as they had thus fallen, upon the stairs
and platforms of the tower; and since having been dragged out,
still lie scattered over the lawn in1 nakedness and putrefaction.
Two or three bodies are stretched. on the roof of the dove-house
also, as they fell on being shot down in its defence.
Though the engagement commenced at daybreak and continued three or four hours, the number of the slain is thought not
to exceed three hundred; and the wounded, not more than six.
Still these numbers are quite sufficient, where father met son and
brother met brother, in deadly fight.  While we were on the
tower, two brothers happened there, and pointed out to us the
positions of the two forces, at different times during the engagement.  Both were in the battle, on0e with the troops of Rosas,
and the other with those of Urquiza.
With the exception of the objects mentioned, there was little
to interest; and, after strolling around for an hour or two, we
returned to the shade of the ombu trees of Santos Lugares, to
partake of an ample lunch, provided by the ladies of the party.
One result of the excursion, was the opportunity it afforded me of
gaining my first sight of what is here termed the' camp;  the fiat




ENTRY OF THE VICTORS INTO THE CITY.    325
open country of the pampas, or plains, which extend hundreds of
leagues, with a surface more level and less wooded than that of
the prairies of the West with us: a vast sea of grass and thistles,
without roads or enclosures, and without a habitation, except at
long intervals.  Nothing breaks the unvarying outline, unless it
be now and then an ombu, rising on the distant horizon, like a
ship at sea.  Travellers upon these plains, whether on horseback
or in carriages, like voyagers on the ocean, direct their course
over the trackless expanse, by compass.
The 19th was appointed for the public entry of Urquiza into
the capital, with the entire allied force, cavalry, infantry, and
artillery, to the number of twenty thousand. Rain during the
preceding night, laid the dust and freshened the air. The morning was pure, cool and pleasant, somewhat obscured by clouds till
noon, but after that hour, clear and brilliant.  Every street and
every house was gay with fluttering flags and the banners of all
civilized nations, and the whole city in gala dress. I had invitations to the balconies of several private houses in different streets
through which the procession would pass; but preferred a roving
commission, with the advantage of being able to change at pleasure my point of view. I chose a stand at an angle of the Plaza
Victoria, or place of victory, the principal square in the city,
near a triumphal arch thrown over the street through which the
procession would debouche upon the Plaza. It was the best point
for observation; giving a near view of the chief officers and
troops, and commanding in coup d'oeil the masses of people in
the open square; the decorations of the monument of victory in
its centre; and of the public buildings facing it, as well as of
the crowded balconies and flat-topped roofs of the surrounding
houses, thronged with spectators of all ages and both sexes in
holiday attire.
Urquiza as captain-general and commander-in-chief, with his
staff, headed the columns.  These had formed at Palermo, the
cavalry being eight, and the infantry and artillery twelve abreast.
The chieftain's dress and that of his staff was not full uniform.




326              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
WVith a military coat, he wore a round beaver hat and scarlet hatband, and held a riding-whip in his hand as if on a hunt.  The red
hatband, besides its demi-savage look, gave offence, it is said, to
the Buenos Ayreans, by reminding them  of the thraldom of
which it had been made a badge under Rosas; and which, with
the waistcoat and every thing of the same color, they had indignantly and with abhorrence thrown off, the moment they found
themselves free to do so. It is also said that every demonstration of popular feeling, by shouts and vivas, had been interdicted;
and there was little enthusiasm manifested in this way. Bouquets,
however, were showered upon the conqueror in great abundance,
and his hands and those of his immediate suite were filled with
such as had been picked up and handed to them. It struck me,
notwithstanding, that there was nothing very gracious in the expression of countenance or manner of the hero: that something
had gone amiss, and he was only tolerating with decent civility the
courtesies shown him. He declined to dismount in the city, and
continued the ride in circuit to Palermo again. The cavalry,
constituting the principal body of the troops, in the Guacho dress
of red flannel shirts and cheripas, white cotton pantalets, and red
caps worn it lc brigand, had all the appearance of so many wild
Arabs, clothed in red in place of white. They were barefooted,
and unshaven and unshorn; and varied in complexion, from the
red and white of the Saxon, here and there, to the jet of Congo.
Four hours were occupied by the procession in passing a single
point; though the cavalry, towards the close, rode at full charge,
when, especially, they bore an aspect as wild as that of the desert
itself. General Lopez, the Governor or President of the Province
of Corrientes, second to Urquiza in command, appeared in full
military costume, as did Baron Caxias, chief of the Brazilian
division. Both were magnificently mounted.
The booming of cannon from various points was heard during
this triumphal march through the city; and a stationary band in
front of the cathedral played at intervals, as the regimental
bands, one after another, passed beyond hearing. In the evening,




TE DEUM IN THE CATHEDRAL.                  327
the arcades surrounding the eastern and southern sides of the
Plaza, the cabildo or town hall fronting it on one side, the cathedral at one corner, and the monument of victory in the centre, were
illuminated; and for an hour and more, there was a good display
of fireworks. The remaining days of the week were proclaimed
holidays, and the decorations in flags, the illuminations, and music
at night were continued.
Two days ago, a grand Te Deum, in commemoration of the
overthrow of Rosas, was celebrated in the cathedral, in presence
of Urquiza and of the newly appointed provisional government;
the officers of the allied armies; and of all the dignitaries of the
church. An immense crowd was brought together by the interest
of the occasion itself, and by the spectacle presented in so large
an assemblage of persons of official rank and power. The ordinary
services were accompanied by a rhapsody in the form of a sermon,
delivered by a young ecclesiastic, who, from having been chosen
for orator on such an occasion, must have some pretension to
talent and eloquence. I have seen a copy of his discourse in
Spanish, and will give a hasty translation of some of its passages
which throw light upon the popular view of the public character
and government of Rosas; and give proof also of the adulations
showered upon the Conqueror.  The address occupied more than
an hour in the delivery, and is at least a curiosity as a sermon.
The text from the Vulgate, was announced in Latin, and was the
opening verse of the song of MIoses after the destruction of the
Egyptians in the Red Sea:
"Let us sing unto the Lord, for he hath triumphed gloriously:
The horse and his rider hath he thrown into the sea."
The introduction, written in Dellacruscan style, and delivered with
the action of the stage, consists of all manner of apostrophesto the Plata, to Liberty, to Peace, to the Argentines, and to the
Virgin Mary, for aid in the office of his ministry.  Two general
points are then presented,-one the duty of thanksgiving for a




328               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
deliverance from  evil; the other of thanksgiving for blessings
conferred. Under the first he institutes a parallel between the
rejoicings of Rome on the fall of Nero, and of those due from
Buenos Ayreans on the overthrow of Rosas: thus —" Tell me,
was it right for the Romans, adorning themselves with garlands
of flowers and clothed with gladness, to hail with hallelujahs the
jubilee of their deliverance; to throw open their temples and
offer incense to their gods in testimony of their gratitude, when
they saw the dead body of the most barbarous of their sovereigns
-that monster, whose cruelty was not satiated with the blood
even of his own mother, and whose corruption made him regardless
of the most sacred obligations of the marriage tie?  Was it not
right, I say, that the Roman people should hymn songs of thankfulness before the altars of their gods, in view of the still palpitating remains of Nero, that impersonation of cruelty, who, seated
on a mount, instead of weeping like the prophets over the destruction of the capital set on fire by himself, rejoiced in the deathshrieks of its inhabitants?  I do not believe, gentlemen, that any
of you condemn this conduct of the Romans-do I say condemn?
I know  that you justify, you praise, you applaud it; and if it
was right, if it was laudable, if it was praiseworthy in the Romans
gratefully to acknowledge, and joyfully to give thanks to their
gods for a deliverance from the tyranny of Nero, is it not equally
so in us Argentines to offer to the true God the incense of our
praise for liberating us from the despotism of Rosas-that tyrant,
that wild beast, that scandal of our nation, that shame upon
humanity, that scourge of society and of religion, that minotaur,
more thirsty for blood than him  of Crete who fed on human
victims?  Yes! all of you will confess that it is just —and the
more just as he was more cruel than even Nero. How more so?
Can it be possible that there ever was a man as cruel as he, much
less more so? Sirs, the lengthened series of eighteen hundred
years did not, indeed, produce such a man: but the epoch of the
barbarous Dictator of the Argentine Republic had not yet arrived.
The nineteenth century, great in all its aspects in the annals of




THANKSGIVING SERMON.                   329
ages, was to be conspicuous by the production of this monster
of cruelty.  Yes, gentlemen, he was not only as cruel, but more
cruel than the oppressor of the Romans.
" Let us make the comparison. But first, Argentines, rise from
the places you occupy-rise, and make haste to close the temple
doors that no foreigner come in; and if any such should already
have entered, supplicate them to retire, that they hear not of
the horrors perpetrated by a son of our soil.  Yes! rise, hasten
quick, fly! But why? Alas! oh sorrow!-stay! stay! it is too
late: the clamorous echo of the cry raised by his cruelty has
resounded to the ends of the earth.  I retract my call, and beg
you, Argentines, to fly-yes, fly to the portals of the temple:
but let it be to open them widely from side to side, that entrance
may be given to the inhabitants of the whole world-if it were
possible, of the entire universe-to be witnesses of our reclamation, and hear the protest we solemnly make in the presence of
Jthe heavens and of the earth, before the altars of our God:
Neighboring Republics! Foreign nations! all ye people of the
earth! know, and transmit to your descendants from age to age
that the children of the Plata repudiate this monster; we despoil
him of the prerogatives of an Argentine; we banish him fromn our
fatherland; and by the unanimous vote of the entire Republic,
sentence him  to wander from place to place, and from land to
land; and, like Cain the fratricide, to carry the mark of his crime
branded on his brow, that his own ignominy may be the expiation
of his transgressions.
" Yes! I again say, Rosas was more cruel than Nero. Let
us analyze the facts in the case.  Why is Nero represented in
history as the greatest tyrant among sovereigns?  Hear Tacitus:'He was,' says the historian,' the assassin of his mother, of
his brother, of his tutor, and of'an immense number of Christians.  He set Rome on fire.';What horrors! and the tyrant
of the Argentines, did he perpetrate such enormities? Some
of them he did-others he did not.  But the credit of omitting
to perpetrate those which he did not commit is to be attributed




330              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
to a dissimilarity of circumstances, not to a difference in moral
principle   Rosas did not sacrifice his mother, but it was because
she did not threaten to deprive him of his power.  He did not
sacrifice his brothers, because none of them attempted to snatch
from him the reins of government: or if they did, they fled
beyond his reach. He did not sacrifice his tutor, because he
never had one; but he had an instructor in political economy and
a patron in his early public career, and him he did assassinate.
Oh! sad remembrance! Sirs, you all know the horrible death
of Maza, President of the House of Representatives,-that noble
patriot and good man, who was murdered in the very temple of
the laws: not in its vestibule, but in the very sanctum sanctorum!
" And did Rosas sacrifice a large number of Christians?
Alas! would I were not under the necessity of answering this
question.  Well then-I will not do it; but answer for me, ye
numerous auditors who listen to me. Speak, ye many widows,
whose hearts, as ye listen to my words, are broken with sorrowlet the tears speak with which you have been fed till the present
day. Speak, ye fathers, who still pour out your grief in sighs
upon your children's tombs. Speak, ye numerous orphans, who,
while embracing with kisses the fathers of your love, have suddenly beheld them expire beneath the point of the dagger! Do
thou, O city of Buenos Ayres-do thou speak: and speak every
province, speak every town, speak every family of the Republic!
Oh, thou year of 1840! 0 fatal epoch! What days of darkness, what days of mourning, what days of tears! your memory will
forever embitter our existence. Ah! yes-in every street, in every
house, in every room, we then stumbled over some victim-innocent
victim, for, to be innocent was, in the eyes of that wicked one, the
greatest of crimes. Humanity is horrified by the frightful truth!
The story seems like a fable, but we ourselves are witnesses to
the facts. Had the blood which was then shed, been mingled
with the waters of the mighty river rolling beside us, they would
have reddened to crimson.  Death itself seemed exhausted in the




ADULATION OF URQUIZA.                  331
execution of such cruelty; and the dead themselves, could they
speak, would exclaim,' How horrible!'
"' And were they Christians only that he immolated?  Nero
did not slay his priests; at least, history does not say that he
attempted it. And Rosas, did he? Ah! that tyrant not only
attempted it, but placed the seal upon the record of his impieties
in the blood of the anointed of the Lord. That blood still cries
to Heaven for vengeance, and like the infernal furies, will follow
and torment the guilty criminal.
" And Rosas? did he burn the city?  Would he had destroyed it rather than have prolonged our martyrdom. But in
this there would have been. too much humanity for him.  His
object was to protract our agony the better to enjoy the misery.
"' Finally, what were the articles of Nero's religious faith?
You all know that he was a Pagan-how then could it be strange
that he should persecute his adversaries? And Rosas, was he
likewise a Pagan?  Would that he had been!-that he had been
so openly! His wickedness was not so great that he did not call
himself a Catholic.  Ah  unhappy man, thou art accountable for
the abuses introduced to the church; for thou, like another Henry
VIII. of England, didst constitute thyself the priest, and the
bishop, and the Pope of the Republic.  If there has been demoralization in society, thou art accountable to the Great Judge for
it; for thou hast interfered with the most sacred rights of religion, education, and laws; and for twenty years hast set back the
civilization of the Republic, and made the relentless knife the
only inducement to excel. But, it is enough! Thanks to the
valiant, the all-powerful Urquiza! the country now reposes in
tranquillity: we are free from the despotism of the odious tyrant.
" And is it not right that we should be thankful to the
Almighty for the benefits received at his hands? We have
attained our liberty.  Oh! incompa,rable good! Oh! gift of
inestimable value! And to whom shall we give our thanks, if
not to Thee, 0 Father of mercies?-to whom if not to Thee, 0
Giver of all joy. To Thee, therefore, O Fountain of all felicity,




332              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
we give thanks! But likewise to thy name, 0 great Urquiza! to
thee, whose name will be immortal; to thee our gratitude will be
eternal, and the echo of our acknowledgments will be heard, even
to the ends of the earth.  The heart of every Argentine will be
a temple from which thou wilt receive the sweet incense of our
affection; and tradition will for ever transmit to our descendants
the name of him  who has restored to us our liberties.  Most
excellent sir, we salute thee as the morning star of the happy
day of freedom that has dawned upon our country.  We acclaim
thee as our Washington! The Washington of the Argentine,
Republic! What a glory for you, sir! Argentines! I call
your attention to your deliverer: fix your gaze on that bold champion. Let your modesty, sir, suffer me in the transports of my
gratitude to express the sentiments of my heart.  Yes, Argentines, fix again, I say, your gaze on that brave warrior. See you
those scintillating eyes beaming with humanity? they have suffered prolonged vigils for your liberty. Behold that capacious
brow —even yet bronzed by the suns of the camp! it has been
absorbed in the profoundest meditations for your liberty! Do
you perceive those features full of expressions of goodness? they
have suffered the rigors of heat and the inclemencies of the
seasons for your liberty.  Witness ye that elevated and finely
modelled breast, the temple of a magnanimous heart?  It has
been exposed to the bullet and the lance of the tyrant, for your
liberty.  Do you observe the nervous arm and powerful hand, so
well known in battle? they have wielded the sword valiantly for
your liberty: yes, for our liberty, he voluntarily renounced his
sleep, to give his mind, day and night, to deep thought; for our
liberty, he sacrificed his own comfort and well-being; for our
liberty he hazarded his life! For our liberty he has suffered
hunger, thirst, and conflicts; and to achieve it, impetuous rivers
have appeared to him but smooth rivulets, enormous deserts like
populous plains, the longest marches but short excursions, and
the greatest obstacles the merest trifles. What courage 1 what
heroism! what patriotism! 




CLOSE OF THE SECOND ACT IN THE DRAMA.  333
" What fortune is ours, Argentines, to have a man of so much
excellence, in him whom Providence has sent to liberate us, and
give to us the guarantee of a constitutional government.  Eternal Father, God of all goodness, what thanksgiving shall we
render to Thee for this evidence of Thy mercy? "
With this fulsome rhapsody, terminates the second act of the
)olitical drama of the Plata.




CHAPTER XXVII.
MONTEVIDEO.
March 30th.-While in Buenos Ayres, we were indebted for
repeated hospitality, at dinners and other entertainments, to the
American Minister and other fellow-citizens from  the United
States, including my kind friends of the Methodist parsonage,
where I was a constant guest.
We left on the 25th ult.  The Montevideans. exult greatly in
the overthrow of Rosas; and, on our return, we found the citizens
in the midst of public rejoicing, and various festivities. The
12th inst. was a grand gala for the reception of the troops of
the Republic, which had been engaged in the battle of Monte Caseros.  Among the most gallant of these was the negro regiment.
A  few days afterwards, I witnessed a religious ceremony of
thanksgiving, at the cathedral, characteristic of the services of
the church here, in which this composed the audience.  Marching into the public square in two detachments, each led by a band,
they formed in line, in front of the church, and entering it in
military procession, filled its spacious nave. The bands took a
stand on either side near the chancel. The soldiers, at the word
of command, knelt with their arms reversed; the priest approaching the altar, opened the books and commenced the service, not
by reading, at least not so as to be heard, but in pantomime.
One of the bands, at the same time, began the performance of an




ADMIRAL GRENFELL.                   335
opera, in which it was relieved at intervals by the other; while
the bell of the priest gave signal, from time to time, to the soldiers, for the requisite smitings on the breast, crossings of the
forehead, lips and chest, and bowings of the head. The music of
the opera was continued without intermission for half an hour,
till the performance at the altar was brought to a close; and then
changed to a lively quick-step, to the gay movements of which,
the troops again marched to their quarters.
The French Admiral, Lepredour, and the Brazilian Admiral,
Grenfell, both received official intelligence from their respective
governments by the last mail-packet, of their advancement from
the rank of rear to that of vice-admiral, in acknowledgment of
the importance of their services here. The 21st inst. was made
a festival in the squadrons of both, as the day on which their new
flags were first hoisted, when they received a salute from the
vessels of their respective squadrons, from those of other nations
here, and from the batteries on shore.
Admiral Grenfell, an Englishman by birth, and originally an
officer in the Royal Navy, is greatly distinguished for his gallantry, and for many brilliant acts in the naval history of the
South American States: first, under Lord Cochrane,-the present admiral, Earl Dundonald-in the Chilian Navy; and afterwards under the same officer in that of Brazil on the Atlantic
coast. For twenty years past he has rendered most important
service in the Imperial Navy; has had chief command on occasions of distinction and honor; and, still in the confidence of the
Emperor, was called from the civil appointment of consul-general
in England, to take command of the squadron sent to facilitate
the operations of the allied forces of Entre-Rios and Brazil,
against Rosas.  This he successfully did, rendering abortive
the defences which Rosas planned to prevent Urquiza and Caxias
from crossing the Parana-thus removing the only obstacle in their
march to Buenos Ayres. For this service, to the order of the
Southern Cross, previously conferred on him, that of the Grand
Cross of the Imperial Order of the Rose is added, and he pro



336                BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
moted to the highest rank in the Brazilian Navy. He has been
a regular attendant on the Sabbath in the chapel, in which I officiate on shore; and apparently is one of the most devout of the
worshippers there, and one of the most attentive of my hearers.
Shortly after my return from Buenos Ayres, it was intimated
to me that some appropriate notice of the important political
events which had occurred, not only in the relief of Montevideo
from siege, but in the overthrow of its most powerful enemy, would
give satisfaction to the church and congregation.  On the succeeding Sabbath, therefore, my discourse, in addition to such allusions as I thought proper to make-in regard to the affairs of the
Republic of which this place is the capital-embraced the duty of
Protestant Christians, resident in it, though not themselves citizens, towards the people and their rulers.  The general tenor of
my subject may be inferred from the text, " I exhort, therefore,
first of all, that supplication, and prayers, intercessions and giving
of thanks be made for all men: for kings, and for all that are in
authority; that we may lead a quiet and peacable life in all godliness and honesty." The practical application which I attempted
to enforce will be most readily condensed by a quotation from  a
familiar hymn:
"So let our lips and lives express
The holy Gospel, we profess,
So let our works and virtues shine,
To prove the doctrine all divine.
Thus shall we best proclaim abroad
The honors of our Saviour God;
When His salvation reigns within,
And grace subdues the power of sin."
Admiral Grenfell was present.  I was in doubt as to the light
in which he, a monarchist by birth and an imperialist by commission, might view the subject as illustrated, in some portions, by the
history and experience in faith and player, of the fathers of our
own Republic; and was gratified to hear that he had expressed




DEEr SEA SOUNDINGS.                  337
himself in terms of unqualified satisfaction with the entire discourse.
April 20th.-Since my last date, we have made a cruise of
three weeks off the Plata.  In addition to the various exercises, nautical and military, for which chiefly we put to sea, several interesting experiments were made under the direction of
Mr. Parker, the flag-lieutenant of our ship, in deep sea soundings.
The first result of much interest was obtained on the 3d inst., in
S. Lat. 35~ 25' W. Long. 45~ 10'. It was during a dead calm;
the surface of the ocean being every where glassy as a newlyfrozen lake. Not a ripple at any point met the eye. At 9
o'clock in the morning, a reel, on which had been arranged ten
thousand fathoms of line, furnished by the Hydrographical Bureau
and brought to the Congress by the sloop St. Mary, was fitted to
one of the quarter-boats, in which Lieut. Parker and Mr. Glover
left the ship to try the depth of the sea. They had expected to
be absent a few hours only, and took no refreshments, not even a
breaker of water with them: but the calm continued, and interested in the duty in which they were engaged, they remained
with the boat's crew the whole day in voluntary fast. The sinker
was a thirty-two pound shot.  Eight thousand five hundred fathomns were expended, and at sunset the line was still slowly running off the reel. The true depth gained was believed to be only
about three thousand five hundred fathoms; the remainder being
stray line carred away by a strong submarine current.  The existence of this was conclusively ascertained: its rate being nearly two
miles the hour, in a direction opposite to the surface current, which
had a force of about one mile per hour.  The determination of this
fact was an abundant reward for the labor of a wearisome day in
the glaring sun. Nine miles of the line were lost. Upon attempting to haul it in, the tension became so great that five men
could obtain a few fathoms only per minute; and greater force being
applied, it parted a few bundred yards from the boat.  Different
soundings were afterwards satisfactorily secured, at the various
depths of 950, 1500, 1780, 2000, 2100, and 2200 fathoms, the par15




338              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
ticulars of which are prepared for transmission to Lieutenant
Maury.  Fifteen thousand fathoms of line were furnished by the
Congress when in Rio, to the commander of H. B. M. Frigate
Herald, whom we met there; and it is reported that soundings
were obtained by him on his way to the Pacific, at a depth of
more than seven thousand fathoms.
The calm which enabled us to make our first deep sounding
continued for three days, with a temperature like the finest autumnal weather at home.  The sky during the time, was clear and
brilliant, both by day and night: for a full moon, in a state of the
atmosphere peculiarly translucent, afforded us a splendor of light
that enabled the crew to occupy themselves in reading. During
this time, I saw men at their stations reading books, even of small
print, in the mid-watch.  Immediately afterwards, however, we
experienced the heaviest gale, with the wildest and most tumultuous sea we have known since leaving the United States. In
a small vessel it would have been fearful; but the Congress is so
large, and so perfect a sea-bird in her motions, that she rides and
sports among the billows with an ease and triumph that call
forth admiration only.  She dashes from her bows and lofty bulwarks, in seeming playfulness, seas which would sweep the decks
of a small craft, or bury them beneath an avalanche of water.
Though the gale was heavy, the sky was bright; and in the afternoon, especially when the rays of the sun fell obliquely upon
"' The restless, seething, stormy sea! "
the scene was magnificent. As sea after sea rose high against the
sun, it would change in hue from the blue of indigo to emerald
green. Then cresting into snowy whiteness, would scatter itself
far and wide, in beds of sparkling diamonds. The tumultuous
rushing and roaring of mighty waters in endless forms around us;
the deep roll of the frigate to the leeward; and then, the rapid
plunge headforemost down a mountain, as it were, into a yawning
gulf below, made the afternoon to me one of admiration and
delight.




SEA SCENE.                      339
Below decks, it is true, every thing was uncomfortable enough.
The ward-room was dark and dreary; and the gun-deck all afloat.
Still, as is generally the case with the sailor in such rough
weather, all hands were in high spirits, and the deeper the roll of
the ship-though by it, one half the crew should be pitched
across the ship; and the heavier the plunge downward, though
followed by rivers of water taken in at the hawser-holes and
bridle-ports-especially, if those on deck were at the same time
drenched by the breaking on board of a sea, or by being thrown
into the floods rushing along the water-ways, the louder was the
laughter and the greater the glee.
The poop-deck, from its elevation and the command it gives
of every thing far and near, is a favorite resort of the officers.
It is also, in ordinary circumstances, a place of etiquette.  To
sit while there, is not allowable, at least in the day-time, except to
the Commodore and Captain, or such as they may invite beside
them; much less is it etiquette to lie there. But now, the wind
was too strong and withal too cold to stand, or even to sit; andl
going up after dinner, and finding it abandoned except by a sailor
at the main-halliards, wrapping:myself in a pea-jacket, I stretched
myself in a corner to the windward, flat upon the dclek, with my
face partially protected by the halmmock-nettings, turned to the
sea. The position gave me an unobstructed view of the raging
and roaring deep; and for an hour and more, I exulted in the contortions of the storm and the ever varying beauty and sublimity
of the scene. Towards evening, the appearance of the Commodore and Captain brought me to my feet; and we together enjoyed the spectacle till the setting sun and gathering night
dropped a curtain of darkness over it.
DESTERmO.
Jilay 22d. —The Congress is again at the island of St. Catherine.  We came to anchor at Santa Cruz, on Saturday the 15th
inst.; and on the following Monday morning, I came to this place
in company with our Mlaster S —     and Secretary G-.  When




340              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
here last, the principal hotel was admirably kept by an American.
He has since died; and his place is well supplied by a Mahonese,
named Salvador.  After having engaged rooms for the night and
ordered our dinner, we sallied forth for a walk in the suburbs of the
town. It is so long since we have been within reach of any thing
like rural beauty, that, surrounded by it here, we were like schoolboys turned loose for play; and in the brilliancy of the morning
and elasticity of a bracing air, felt, as one of us expressed it,
ready to fly.  The south wind blew freshly over the hills and
through the trees, and, at one point in our walk, with novel and
charming effect upon the widespread branches of a couple of
Australian pines. Under its breathings these became perfect
Eolian harps, sending forth as we stood beneath them, the most
touching strains of melody; swelling at times into the fulness of
the organ, and then dying away in cadences, so soft, as to make the
" Listener hold his breath to hear;"
while the nerves thrilled under the expiring tones. I never heard
"a voice of nature " more charming.
We were again struck with the great civility of every one
we met, from the well-dressed gentleman to the humblest slave.
As we stood near the enclosure of a poor cabin, admiring the
peculiar beauty of a rose in the perfection of its bloom, a negro
came to the door, and with pleasant salutations, begged us to pull
it, though it was the only one in flower; at the same time cutting
a cluster of buds from the bush himself, and adding sprigs of
geranium for a bouquet.
After an excellent dinner served by Salvador, we towards
evening took a walk along the beach and the eastern shore of
the bay, to one of the finest points of view. The picture presented in the glowing light of the setting sun was very fine.
Our walk led us past the general hospital. It is finely situated
on a commanding terrace, and has recently been enlarged and
refitted, through the liberality of the Emperor and Empress, by
donations made by them in their visit to St. Catherine's in 1845:




MARKET AT DESTERRO.                  341
the one having given ten thousand dollars for this purpose, and
the other two. It is a foundling hospital, as well as an infirmary.
The window containing the roda or turning-box for the reception of the infants left, was open, though shaded by a screen of
green cloth, embroidered in the centre with the Imperial arms,
and with the motto in Portuguese-" Mieus pais me desemparao
a Divina Providencia me protege."  " My parent deserts me, but
Divine Providence protects me."
I rose early the next morning and took a stroll through the
market.  It is a new and neatly kept structure, immediately
adjoining the beach. I say beach, for there are no wharves.
This was now filled with canoes run up on the sand, and laden
with vegetables, fruit, wood, and various articles of traffic, in
which a brisk barter was going on.  On the grass of the open
square in front, groups of mules were clustered with pack-saddles
and panniers burdened with similar articles, brought for a like
purpose from the interior; and near by, negro women in all kinds
of costume and of every color, were seated frying fish, and boiling
black beans into a kind of soup, and preparing other edibles for
the breakfast of the muleteers and passers by. Here, too, were
collected, according to daily custom, two or three dozen boys,
from eight to twelve years of age, each having a bamboo stick
across the shoulder, from one end of which was suspended a tin
can capable of containing three or four quarts, with a small tin
cup attached as a measure. These are the milkmen of the place,
belonging to the small farms in the adjoining valleys, to a distance
of seven or eight miles.
Our breakfast at the hotel was a l'Americain: such an one
as Salvador boastingly said " a Brazilian would not know how to
get up."  Immediately after despatching it G —-—, S5-    and I
set off in a boat for the village of San Jose on the mainland,
nine miles across the straits in a south-easterly direction from
Desterro.  This was in prosecution of a purpose we had formed of
visiting the German colony of San Pedro d'Alcantara in the
mountains, some twenty-five or thirty miles inland from San Jos6;




342              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
partly to observe the progress made by the immigrants after a
settlement of twenty-five years; and partly for the effect upon
our health and spirits of a ride for a couple of days on horseback.
There was no wind, and we were rowed over by a Brazilian,
the owner of the boat, and a young negro, his slave.  The views
from the water in every direction are beautifully lakelike.  The
points and bluff headlands projecting into the water, are in many
instances peculiarly striking in their terminations: consisting of
columnar shafts, piked splinters, and immense boulders of granite,
so arranged as to have the appearance of the ruins of Cyclopean
fortresses, even to the remains of seemling embrasures.  In other
instances they might pass for fragments of a Giant's causeway.
~We were an hour and a half in making the distance.  We
had been directed for information and aid in accomplishing
our purpose to a German named Adams, residing at a beach called
the Praya Compreda, in the immediate vicinity of San Jose,
-He is a kind of chieftain among his countrymen of the colony,
and could be of more service to us than any other person. We
landed near his house, a substantial and comfortable edifice of
stone, appropriated in its lower apartments to the varied business
of a commission merchant, grocer, and tavernkeeper.  It was here
we were to procure horses and a guide for the excursion. At first
the prospect of success was rather unpromising.  Though kindly
received by Adams, he said it was impossible for him to furnish
horses-that all his were entirely used up by a hard ride from
which they had just returned, and he knew of no others that could
be obtained: nor was there any one in the place who could act
as a guide.  However, upon setting forth our entire dependence
upon him, at the recommendation of his friend; the anxiety we
felt to make the trip; our nationality, and the ship at Santa Cruz
to which we were attached, hle so far relented in his first decision
as to say he would see what could be done; and at the end of a
few minutes it was determined, that after a good feed, his two
horses, with the addition of a couple of mules, should be at our




A YANKEE COBBLER.                   343
service, and that Adams himself should become our companion
and guide.
Matters being thus satisfactorily arranged, we employed the
time for the requisite preparations, in looking around us, and in
learning a little of the character and history of our host.  He is
a stout, thickset, square, iron-framed man of forty-five, with a
good-natured, but most determined and inflexible face. He has
been twenty-four years in the country, having been one of the
pioneer colonists of Alcantara, and resident in the mountains till
within a few years past.  He is now well to do in the world, and
has a wife and family of six children. A daughter of eighteen
soon became an object of unfeigned admiration to some of our
party. She is very pretty in face, fresh and blooming in complexion, with a refined and intelligent expression, and perfect in the
proportion and symmetry of her figure.  There was a fitting of
the head and neck to the bust, and an air and bearing in her
walk, that would have become a princess.  It is so long since we
have seen in common life one who would be called at home
a truly pretty girl, that we were quite charmed with the neat
and  modest air of this Christianlike  and civilized beauty.
A brother, too, some two years older, tall, stout, and well modelled, moved about with the straightness and the elastic step of
an Indian.
As we were strolling through the little hamlet, a straggling
suburb of the village of San Jose, we were told by a passer-by that
an American was living close at hand-pointing out to us his residence. We found this to be a cobbler's shop, and our compatriot
in it a cobbler: a scapegrace, as we soon learned, from no less
noted a place of apprenticeship than the " Mammoth" boot-store in
Chatham Square, New York.  He is about twenty-eight years
of age, has been eleven years at St. Catharine's, and is married
here; but notwithstanding, is confessedly still much of a " Bowery
boy," and no great honor to his country. A Bible in English,
lying on the counter, was the only evidence of good we disovered
during our interview, in which he did a small job in his line for




344              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
one of us. His boast of Protestantism, and of his defences of the
truth amid the superstition and idolatry, as he termed it, in
which he lives, did not pass for much in our estimation, interlarded as his conversation was, with oaths and other proofs of
moral degradation.
At two o'clock we were mounted for San Pedro d'Alcantara;
Adams and S —-- on horses, G —--- and I on mules.  Adamls,
wearing a low-crowned, broad-brimmed, black felt hat, seemed to
be literally stuffed into the drab cotton shooting-jacket, which he
had added to the shirt in which we first met him.  The other
most conspicuous article of his dress was a pair of tan-colored
boots, reaching to his knees, with saddle-bag tops, put to the use
here of a portmanteau.  G0-    and S —- each wore over their
coats a gaily striped Buenos Ayres poncho; whilst I was provided
with a boat-cloak, as a defence against sun, wind, and rain. We
set off with fine weather and in high spirits. We had long
become so weary of the monotony of life on board ship at Montevideo, and the confinement of our passage hither, that the change
was most welcome; and we ambled off through a sandy lane leading directly inland from the water, as cheerily as if just escaping
from prison.
On gaining the height of the first ridge, we had an extensive
view over a wide valley covered with wood. It surprised me to
see so wide an extent of level and seemingly rich land, immediately on the coast, unredeemed; but we learned that beneath the
wood it is a mere swamp.  The rising grounds skirting it, present
abundant evidence of the productiveness of the soil: plantations
of coffee, sugar-cane, mandioca, cotton, Indian corn, and the castor
oil plant, were spread widely around, while the orange groves
were so laden with fruit, as to appear in the sun like masses of
gold. The road for many miles was broad and smooth, lined
with hedges of mimosa and wild orange, and ornamented here and
there by clusters of roses and jessamine. By degrees, however,
as we advanced in the mountains, especially in the ascent and
descent of spurs of hills, it became narrow and rough, and little




RIDE TO SAN PEDRO.                  345
more than a bridle-path. The country became proportionally
new and uncultivated; still in many places it was homelike, from
the meadows and rich bottom lands which here and there bordered
the mountain stream, which we began now closely to follow towards
its sources. A thousand beautiful pictures in outline and foliage
were presented during the ride of the afternoon, enlivened and
varied by the windings of the small river beside us-flowing at
times through lawnlike banks as smoothly as the waters of a
lake, and then again rushing, and leaping, and foaming amidst
gigantic boulders of granite, down rapids and over cascades, with
the tumult and uproar of a cataract.
We had constant evidence along the road, in the new dwellings and outbuildings of the inhabitants, of their improving circumstances and advancing civilization.  This was conspicuous in
more than one instance in three successive specimens of architecture in a single habitation, by the additions made at different
times.  First, there was the little cabin, composed of small sapling-like timbers, wattled and filled in with mud and coarsely and
rudely thatched, now rickety and ready to tumble down, the
original shanty of a settler in the wilderness; next, and joined
to it some years later, another more spacious in its area, and of
more substantial frame, more smoothly plastered  and more
elaborately thatched-more neat in the finish of its door and
window frames, and entire workmanship; and lastly, the recently
constructed cottage of stone, stuccoed and whitewashed, and
roofed with tile-bearing testimony of the prosperity and the
improved domestic accommodations of its owner. This is descriptive of the Brazilian section of the country, before we came in
the neighborhood of the German colony; though the same fact
was observable in a more marked degree among the European
immigrants.
Night overtook us when yet a league from our destination.
Most of this distance was made in such darkness that we could
not distinguish an object around us; not even the road we were
travelling.  We could only follow the lead of our guide, trusting




346               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
to the eyesight and sagacity of our beasts, for security in mounting
sharp hills and in making steep descents beside the roaring
waters and shelving precipices.  The way thus began to be
tedious and we to feel weary.  A bright light from  a large and
cheerful dwelling near the road side, before which our guide
halted, led to the hope that we had reached the end of our day's
journey.  This Adams was desirous of making it; but, after an
animated parlance in German, in which the whole of a large
family, men, women and children, who had crowded to the door,
joined, while we, wayworn riders, looked wistfully at the brightness and seeming comfort within, he was told that we could not
be accommnodated, and must push our way through the darkness
and chill mists of the mountains, a mile further.  Slight showers
of rain now began to fall from the heavy clouds overhead.  When
at last we did come to a halt, and were invited to dismount, the
only object discernible was the dim  light of a lamp amidst the
bottles of a little grog-shop and grocery, six feet by ten.  We
found, however, that it opened on one side into a room  of somewhat greater dimensions; and this again in the rear into a kennellike hole, filled with children of all ages, from one to eight and
ten years, most of them very primitively clad, and some so much
so as to be entirely naked.
It was at once very evident that this barnlike rooim, open
overhead to the rafters, and furnished only with a coarse heavy
table and two or three rude wooden benches, was to be both our
supper roon. and dorimitory: the grog-shop on one corner and the
kennel behindc constituting the rest of the dwelling.  Hungry
and weary we gladly made ourselves at home in it.  The civility
of the landlord, and his manifest desire to do honor to guests
under the protection of so distinguished a patron as MIynheer
Adams, but especially the early appearance of a trim and active
little German girl of eighteen, with neatly arranged hair and
blooming complexion, moving about with the self-possession and
dignity of an heiress, though witihout stockings, and for shoes the




INDOOR SCENES AT SAN PEDRO.               347
clumsy sabots or wooden slippers of the country, began to raise
our hopes as to fare and accommodations.
Soon the savory fumes and musical hissing of ham and eggs,
in a frying-pan in the adjoining penthouse, and the aroma of
coffee, gave further encouragement to our empty stomachs. A
snowwhite cloth was at the same time spread over one end of the
bar-room table; and it was not long before we were seated at a
very palatable meal, which the personal cleanliness of the little
cook and waiting-maid encouraged us to dispatch without any
very close inspection of the plates on which it was served, or the
particular condition of the black knives and five-pronged German
silver forks with which it was eaten. In the mean time we had
become somewhat enlightened as to the domestic condition of the
household.  The lady of the mansion had given birth the day
before to a sixth son, and was lying in a little dark recess on one
side of the rear shanty: mother and son doing well.  The maidof-all-work was a sister in charge of the household during the
confinement.
Shortly after our arrival a new character was introduced, in
the person of a German doctor, in attendance on the mother and
child: a man of talent and education, we were told, but now, from
habits of drunkenness, a poor degraded wretch, shabby in dress,
and filthy in person.  He soon rendered himself utterly disgusting
to us, by the profaneness and vulgarity of the broken English by
which he attempted to commend himself to us, as travellers.  He
came firom the fatherland somewhat more than a year ago, with
the German legion furnished by Brazil, in the allied armies of the
Plata, for the overthrow of Rosas.  In this, he was a surgeon,
but forfeited his commission through intemperance. HI-e was
disposed at first to be very friendly, and to address us as " hail
fellow well met."  The advances were received so very coldly,
however, especially on the point of most interest to him, the
participation of a glass of grog, that after a word to the sick, he
took his departure in the darkness and rain for another grog-shop,
as we were told, to meet more congenial companions.




348               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
The cravings of hunger relieved, we began to cast a look
around as to the promise of rest for the night, after the weariness
of a rough and rapid ride of twenty-five miles. The bare and
dirty floors, and narrow and hard benches along the walls, seemed
to furnish the only choice of couches. We had made up our
minds to this alternative; and, so far as my companions were
concerned, with a half shiver as to the degree of comfort held
out.  The mountain air was not only damp, but positively cold.
In addition to my saddle for a pillow, I had a thick cloak in
which to wrap myself, but G —--  and S —-—, with nothing to
cover them  but their light ponchos, had the prospect of half
freezing.  A  shrug of the shoulders, however, chiefly indicated
the nature of their thoughts on the subject.  To our relief, a large
rush mat was early spread in one corner of the room, and immediately afterwards, with triumphant looks of gratulation to one
another, we beheld our host with his little sister-in-law lugging in
from the adjoining apartment an immense straw  bed, of dimensions sufficient for the accommodation of half a dozen persons.
Spread out to its largest extent, and furnished with bolsters, clean
sheets and blankets, it looked so tempting, that, arranging the
cloak and ponchos for additional covering, and laying aside our
coats, boots, and cravats, we were soon in the indulgence of the
rest to which it invited us.  We were constrained by Christian
civility to offer to our guide a fourth part of the couch.  In
anticipation of his acceptance, I had chosen for myself an outside berth, where I supposed I should be the farthest removed
from him.  He declined the place offered, however, and spreading
a sheepskin saddlecloth and other gear on the floor, took up his
quarters beside me.  Thus 1my selfish manmouvre was in vain, and
the big German was my next bedfellow. It was well for nmy
repose that I was right weary; for he soon began puffing and
snorting in his sleep with the labor and noise of a high-pressure
steam-engine, which otherwise would have effectually kept me
awake.  We were four in a row; but there was no lack, as I soon
discovered, of numerous other bedfellows.  Flattering myself that




CHAPEL AND CEMETERY.                  349
they were nothing worse than fleas in clean and polished armor,
I did not allow myself to be disturbed by them; but leaving
them to skip, hop, and jump as they pleased without hindrance, I
slept soundly till morning, and rose without a vestige of fatigue.
I was all impatience to know what kind of a place, under the
disclosures of daylight, San Pedro d'Alcantara would prove to be.
On hastening to the door, for the windows without sash or glass
were closed by board shutters, the first object that met my eyes
was the little rustic chapel of the settlement, perched on the
top of a beautifully wooded and round-topped hill. It is picturesque and rural, and the most conspicuous and ornamental object
in the landscape.  The place itself is a hamlet of a dozen dwellings, most of them mere huts.  Half the number are plastered
and whitewashed, and in place of thatch have roofs of red tile.
The mountain stream, whose course we had followed from the bay
at San Jose, here a small rivulet, flows through its centre. The
little valley in which the hamlet is embosomed, is encircled by
hills of more or less steepness, most of them still covered with
trees and underwood, and presents all the features of a new and
frontier settlement at home.  After breakfast, accompanied by
Adams and our host, who adds to his occupation of publican the
office of sexton to the church, we ascended the hill to the chapel.
It is most rude in its architecture both within and without, and
is furnished with several frightful daubs, of what are intended
for saints and angels.  A  cemetery surrounds the chapel.  It
contains a few graves, and is encircled by a broad.path for the
convenience of religious processions.  There is no parish priest;
but an itinerant ecclesiastic makes a quarterly visit for confession
and absolution, and the celebration of mass. In answer to my
inquiries on the subject, our host said, " We come up to the
chapel every Sunday morning and every saint's day, and make a
procession, and do what we can, and then go down and drink,
dance, and sing, and enjoy ourselves the rest of the day! "
It had rained heavily in showers during the night, and the
weather was still drizzling and unsettled.  Still we felt disposed




350               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
before returning, to push our observations a little further in the
interior.  To this Adams offeredl no objection, and we again
mounted.  Shortly after leaving the hamlet westward, we came to
a very steep and long hill-quite a mountain.  The soil is an
adhesive oily clay, and the ascent was difficplt and amusing.  It
was almost impossible for our animals to obtain a sure foothold;
and they constantly slipped and floundered, and slid backwards in
a manner that at first was startling.  The view from the top, of
the little valley and hamlet, the stream  meandering through it,
and of the rude chapel and its surmounting cross, was picturesque
and quite Alpine.
The descent on the opposite side was as steep, and more
hazardous than the ascent had been: our beasts, with their forelegs stiffly outstretched, often made involuntary slides of eight, ten,
and fifteen feet, till "' brought up all standing," as the phrase is,
by a cross gully or a large stone.  As the whole ride was but the
constant ascent and descent of a succession of spurs of hills,
running down into the little valley through which the mountain
stream flowed, it proved a regular morning's sport of 1" coursing
down hill " after a new fashion. At first it was a little startling;
for when the slide began, whether backwards, in a precipitous
ascent, or headforemost down a breakneck descent, there was no
calculating where one would fetch up; a little experience, however, begot such confidence in the self-management of the animals
-especially the mules, to one of which I still adhered-that I
soon began to enjoy it, and rather to look out for and encourage a
good long slide upon the well-braced limbs of my beast.  This was
particularly the case on our return, in the descent of the long hill
immediately overhanging San Pedro.  This is quite precipitous,
and for nearly half a mile we slipped, slipped, and slipped, one
after another, first in one direction in the road, and then in
another, zigzagging here and zigzagging there, but bringing up at
every successive point safely, till we were constrained to laugh
outright, as we looked from one animal and his rider to another,
and felt that each of us presented the same comical figure.




1 MOUNTAIN SCENERY.                  351
The general features of the scenery were rauch the same as
those passed over the preceding evening. Steep hills, wellwooded, rose abruptly on either side from the little valley. In
this lay rich bottomlands, some in long peninsulas, and others in
horse-shoe form, according to the varied windings of the stream
flowing through them.  Mlany beautiful pictures, some of nature
in her wildness, and others with intermingled cultivation and improvement met the eye, with evidences in the dwellings and farms
of the settlers of increasing comfort and progressive civilization.
At the end of three miles, our guide proposed that instead of following the public mule-track further, we should turn aside by a gateway upon the more level valley. This we did, and soon entered
upon a section more like farming-lald at home than any thing before
met.  After passing two or three comfortable-looking dwellings,
we came in view of an extensive plantation of comparatively level
and well improved ground, with a cluster of buildings a -half mile
in the distance, superior to any we had yet seen.  It proved to be
the residence of a cousin of our guide, at which he wished to give
us an introduction.  Widespread, meadow-like fields lay before
us, and on one side upon an open lawn stood a neatly-finished
little' chapelet,' if I may coin a word.  This looked pretty in the
landscape, from its whiteness in contrast with the green of an
encircling hedge.  It was not more than twelve feet square, open
in front, and probably intended to be scarcely more than a canopy
over a shrine of the Virgin or some favorite saint.
From the time of entering the German colony the day previous, salutations of good will and pleasure were addressed to
our guide from the habitations we passed far and near-often at
distances as great as the voice could well carry them; now, as
soon as he was recognized among the party approaching, the demonstration was most cordial and prolonged; while before we
could alight, father, mother, daughters, and sons gathered around
the cavalcade with the most cheerful welcome. Every thing indicated that we had arrived at the mansion of a magnate in the
colony, if it were not that of the lord of the manor himself.  It




352               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
must not be inferred from  this, however, that we met any very
impressive display of aristocratic life, either in costume, manners,
or dwelling.  The proprietor was unshaven and unshorn.  His
dress, though clean, was very thoroughly patched, and included
neither coat, stockings, hat, nor cravat. The costume of the lady
consisted principally, of a single essential garment, made and
arranged so inartistically as to give to her figure very much the
outline of a bean-pole. The forms of two strapping daughters
of sixteen and eighteen were much more after the German model;
but their toilette was little more elaborate than that of the
mother, and the skirt of the single robe worn by them, scarcely
the length of that% of a Bloomer without the pantalets. The
sinew and muscle thus displayed in bare arms and bare ankles and
feet, would have justified the belief that they had spent their lives
in tree-chopping or log-rolling, and led one of our party in his
astonishment to exclaim, with the favorite expletive of'by George,'
" either of them would thrash any one of us in a minute!"
It was beginning to rain quite smartly as we dismounted, and
whilst the sons took charge of our horses, we were hastily
ushered into a good-sized room, which, though exhibiting a combination of hall and parlor, bedroom and kitchen, took us quite
by surprise in its style and finish. It presented a neatly panelled wainscot, of the handsome cedar of the country, extending
from the floor to the cornice; the ceiling also being panelled
with the same material.  A long table and benches beside it, a
sofa of mahogany with cane seat, and half a dozen chairs to match,
an old eight-day clock in a straight black case, and a high dresser
with drawers of the same color and material-both manifestly
brought from the' faderland'-constituted, with the accustomed
display of delf and china, the principal furniture of the room.
In the early morning, at San Pedro, the first indoor object
that arrested my attention, was the thickset and burly figure of
our guide, beside the counter of the little grog-shop and grocery,
stirring with a spoon the contents of a shallow earthen pan, on
the surface of which played the blue flames of burning spirits.




A FEAT OF AGILITY.                  353
The interest with which he watched the operation was not limited, it was very evident, to the beauty of the flashing and leaping flame, as he stirred and stirred the liquid.  Half suspicious
of the reply that would be given, I asked him,' what he was
making? " And received for answer, with a smack of his lips,
" Oh, something very good for the stomach in these damp mornings in the mountains-very necessary against the fogs! it is
cachasa,"-the common rum of the country-" and sugar," of
which, at the end of fifteen minutes' preparation, he would fain have
persuaded us to partake, with the assurance " that all the bad of
it was burned up."  And now, at the farm-house, we had scarcely
become seated, before our host made his appearance with a tumbler of the same, with a regret that he could not in its place offer
us wine.  On declining this, bowls of milk were presented.  And
such milk! The like of it I have not seen since leaving the
banks of the Hudson. An excellent loaf of bread, a mixture of
wheat and Indian meal, was added, with the sweetest of butter
and equally good cheese. A plate of the farina of mandioca
being also placed upon the table, I made my lunch chiefly on a
bowl of milk thickened with it; and found the diet a capital substitute for the hasty pudding of New England and the Dutch
suppawn of the Middle States.
In the mean time, a feat of agility performed by the younger
of the two daughters mentioned, came near proving too much for
the gravity of some of our number.  She had not entered the
room when we did, having received an order at the time, of some
kind, from her mother. This obeyed, she was unwilling, probably,
to lose the interest of so unusual a visit; and perceiving at the
door that but one seat in the room was vacant-the farther end
of the sofa, ten or twelve feet off-and suspicious of the undue
exposure before strangers of her nether limbs, in a deliberate
movement over the intervening space, she measured well the distance, and with a gathered momentum, by a single lofty hop,
skip, and jump, came down c-la Tucrque upon it, with feet and
ankles entirely concealed beneath her scanty skirt, but with a




354               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
snapping of the bamboo that threatened to be fatal to the bottom
of the sofa.
After luncheon, we sallied forth for the inspection of a mandioca and a sugar mill in an adjoining building, and a view of the
piggery and gardens-the entire household forming our suite.
We had already discovered the wife to be very decidedly the
head of the family. Her will and word, doubtless, were law in the
domain, outdoors as well as within. The husband seemed a
meek, good-natured but inefficient person, while his better half
was full of energy and enterprise; and, probably, besides the exercise of better judgment, had accomplished more hard work,
in the field as well as in the kitchen, than any other person on the
place.  She at once took the lead in showing off the premises,
and in giving all the information desired in regard to them. Her
husband and herself were so poor at the time of their immigration, twenty-four years ago, as to be necessarily indebted to theiki
cousin, Adams, for their passage-money. Their plantation was a
gratuity from the government, as an encouragement to colonists.
It is a mile in length, by half a mile in width, and was then in a
state of nature, and of little value. It is now reclaimed and well
cultivated; and could not be purchased, as we were informed, for
less than ten thousand milreis or five thousand dollars.  In addition to this fine property and comfortable home, with good buildings and a stock of all necessary animals, Mr. S —    the proprietor, is a capitalist, and has money at interest.  Mrs. So  has
been handsome, and still has a finely chiselled face and good expression.  The daughters, too, are pretty: at least they appeared
so to us. It is so long since we have seen the fair skin and the
fair complexion of the Northern woman, or met the energy,
activity, and elastic movement of the fair Yankee, that we are
scarcely competent to the exercise of unprejudiced judgment in
the case.
At the end of an hour we took our leave, pleased with the
visit, which evidently had also been a pleasure to our hosts. The
wetness of the morning had increased, and before we had accom



DEPARTURE FROM SAN PEDRO.                  355
plished a mile on our return, the rain began to pour in torrents.
We sought the shelter of an orange-grove till the shower should
pass; but finding it inadequate to the emergency, Adams, exclaiming, " This will not do! " pushed ahead a short distance, and
dashed, all mounted, into a mandioca mill at one end of a dwelling near by.  We of course followed, and found ourselves with
our beasts snug and dry in the kitchen as well as mill of the proprietor.  Here, during the delay of half an hour, we had an opportunity of witnessing again the whole process of converting the
root of the miandioca into farina; while Adams, having, through
an open door, spied the family of the house at their noonday
meal, alighted, and notwithstanding his previous hearty luncheon
an hour before, of bread, butter, cheese and milk, sat down and
made a full dinner: and this, only as was afterwards proved, by
way of stimulating his appetite for the repast we had ordered to
be in readiness on our return, at San Pedro, and to which he did
as ample justice as if he had not broken his fast before for a
day.
While waiting for this meal to be served, a very pretty and
modest-looking German girl of fifteen rode up to the door of the
little inn.  She wore a neatly fitting dress of pink calico, a
pocket-handkerchief tied under the chin as a covering for the
head, and French gaiter boots, and sat her horse tL la cabellero.
She was on her way to San Jose under the escort of a friend,
without whose protection, the Germans told us, she could not possibly make the trip with safety, such was the villainy and licentiousness of the Brazilians of the country. In the state in which
the roads are, her attitude as a rider was unquestionably the most
secure.
When ready to set off ourselves, rain had again began to
pour; and for a time the prospect of being able to start was
unpromising. The drunken doctor, once more in attendance, persisted in assuring us that it would rain thus all the afternoon;
and said it would be madness to think of leaving.  His urgency
for our stay was an additional motive for us to be off; and as




356              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
soon as there was a slight improvement in the weather we
mounted, and after making up a purse, much to the delight of
our host, as a gratuity to the'sixth-born son, bade adieu to San
Pedro d'Alcantara. It was now four o'clock, and Adams said we
could not reach San Jos6 at the earliest before nine.  We started
notwithstanding, with the will and purpose of making the shortest possible work of the intervening distance; and certain of our
road, left our guide to gossip by the way as he chose, with the
many friends hailing him from the heights above or the valleys
below, as far as the voice could be carried, while we rode pellmell, up hill and down dale, often slipping and sliding for long
distances, at the seeming hazard of both limbs and neck. In this
way, we accomplished half the distance before nightfall, and
reached a lower region of country, where there had been little or
no rain.
During the ride, we met several troupes of mules, and their
nuleteers, returning with empty pack-saddles from the bay.
Among others, one belonging to our host of San Pedro, which
we bad seen setting off in the early morning with articles for the
market of Desterro.  Occasionally, too, we overtook, and, after
riding for a time side by side, passed horsemen and mlule riders
going the same way with ourselves. Just as darkness was beginning to fall rapidly around, we thus fell in with a well-mounted,
fine-looking Brazilian, having the appearance of a respectable
planter.  Adams was far behind, and S-  had the lead of our
party, his horse being a tolerably good traveller.  My mule, a
sure-footed beast, came next, and then G's.  The Brazilian,
after riding side by side with each of us in turn, by degrees got
in advance of all three. As he was evidently well acquainted
with the road, S —    and I made up our minds to follow him
closely, as the pioneer in the darkness for any unsafe spot ahead.
As both man and horse appeared fresh, however, this required
pretty brisk riding.  With the thickening of the night, our new
friend accelerated his speed; and the faster he led, the faster we
followed. Presently it was impossible to discern a trace of the




RIDE BY NIGHT.                    357
road, or to discover whether it were smooth or roughl, tending up
hill or down.  The white Guayaquil hat of the Brazilian, was
all that was left visible to S —-- of horse, or rider, and a line of
deeper darkness hastening from me ahead, was all that I, with the
most fixed gaze, could perceive of S-.  I lashed my mule to
keep up in the chase, S —--- kept snapping his riding whip in the
fashion of a French postilion, while the Brazilian seemed to be
spurring on his steed at full tilt.  Away we thus went, S —managing to keep before him the vision of a white hat, which
threatened each moment to be lost in the darkness, and I at an
equal remove fromn him, with all the powers of sight intently
fixed, to follow a moving speck of concentrated blackness.  To
make sure of the identity of the phantom of my own chase, I
occasionally called out, " S-, do you still see him?" to which
the reply would come, "Yes! but I tell you he is going it: but
I'll take good care not to lose him, —there can be but one road,
and I'll make sure of so good a lead."
It was amusing, though it might have proved no joke, to be
thus trotting at full speed in impenetrable night, and that on a
hard-motioned animal at the end of a thirty-miles' ride. We had
kept the gait for an hour perhaps, without venturing to slacken
its pace for a moment, or to take our eyes from the respective
points, white and black, before us, when all at once, that on which
mine were fixed was gone: urging my mule forward, in the attempt to regain it, I perceived him begin to stumble, and found that
he was off the path.  Reining him up, I called out for S-.
He, I discovered, was at a stand also at no great distance, and
in answer to the question, " I-lave you lost your guide? " answered, " He has just vanished like a veritable ghost-he disappeared in a moment in a mass of blackness, and but for the
creaking of a gate, I should have been headforemlost into a
hedge after him."  The darkness was so great that it was impossible to move with safety without some indication of the direction in which we ought to go, and we had patiently to wait the
approach of G —    and Adams to relieve us from our dilemma.




358             1RRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
Soon the whip of the former, urging on his little mule, and the
jingling of the stirrups and heavy iron spurs of the latter were
heard  at no great distance; and giving place in the lead to
Adams, at the end of a half hour we alighted safely at the point
from which we started.  I was too much fagged to care for any
refreshment but that of sleep; and, while S8-  and G —-- sat
down to a supper of " pain perdu" and green tea, made my way to
a clean and comfortable cot beneath the tiled roof of the garret,
and was soon lost in a repose" above
The luxury of common sleep."




CHAPTER XXVIII.
DESTBREO.
Miay 24th.-Mr. Wells, an American gentleman of wealth,
long resident in Desterro, is a person of leading influence in the
commerce and society of the place. [For many years he held the
office of American consul with honor and popularity; but was
superseded two or three years ago, through the political influence
of a partisan office-seeker at home. The new incumbent, disappointed in the profits expected from the office, soon resigned it.
Through private pique against Mr. Wells, he left the papers of
the consulate and an acting appointment to the office with Captain Cathcart, though he is in no way qualified for the duties or
honor of the situation.
Among others to whom Mr. Wells, as the only representative
of-the United States here, has at different times extended his
hospitality, are the present Emperor and Empress.  Their majesties and suite were entertained by him at a magnificent fate, in
their progress through this section of the Empire in 1845. I was
furnished with letters to him by Dr. Cl-, an old friend, and by
F —— of the Congress.  These I delivered before making the
excursion to San Pedro; and on my return, became a guest
beneath his roof. His house is on the palace square, in the
immediate neighborhood of the residence of the President of the
Province. It is one of the finest dwellings in the place, and




360               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
commands from the windows and balconies of the drawing-room,
an extensive view of the town, bay, and surrounding mountains.
It has been my lot to occupy a great variety of sleeping rooms,
from those of the palace to the wigwam, but I think the bed
assigned to me here must have precedence, in its dimensions at
least, above all I have before met.  It is truly regal, taking even
that of his majesty of Bashan in the days of his overthrow, as a
model.  I have not measured it, and its area may not quite be,
as his was, " nine cubits by four; " but its elevation I suspect is
quite as great; the upper mattress, as I stand beside it, being
nearly on a level with my shoulders, and accessible only by a
flight of mahogany steps.  The canopy is of proportionate altitude. The dignified feeling with which one ascends to this place
of rest, is not a little increased by the remembrance that it was
by these very steps their Imperial Majesties, when in St. Catherine's, mounted to their couch.
Mr. Wells has been bereft of a wife and child, and is left
alone; but has borne his afflictions with the resignation of a
Christian.  It was pleasing to discover, that though so long a
resident of a place'" wholly given to idolatry," and cut off from
all the public means of grace, he maintains the regular worship
of God, morning and evening, with his household of African
servants.
The quietude and comforts of such an establishment are a
great luxury after the weariness of long confinement on shipboard; and I feel that the visit at Desterro will constitute quite
an episode in the tedium of our cruise. The town itself presents
every where a pleasing mingling of city and country, giving to
the whole a village-like simplicity. The walks, in every direc-'tion, are varied and beautifully rural; and whatever Desterro may
be as a permanent residence, it is certainly delightful for a
sojourn of a few days.
Yesterday afternoon my attention was attracted by the sounds
of music in the Matriz, or mother church, at the head of the square;
and walking over, I discovered it to be that of a funeral service




FUNERAL OF A' CHILD.                   361
in a mass for the dead.  A beautiful catafalque, with richly festooned draperies of pink satin and gold and silver tissue, occupied the centre of the nave. Upon this, in a straight coffin of pink
velvet, trimmed with gold lace —so formed as when thrown open
to expose the entire figure-upon a satin mattress lay the corpse
of a little girl of three years, most tastefully and expensively
arrayed in what may be concisely described as a full ball-dress
of pink and blue gauze, with edgings of gold and silver fringe
over a white satin robe: the whole being wreathed with garlands
of exquisitely finished artificial flowers.  The feet were in silk
stockings and satin shoes, and the head crowned with fresh
roses.  Death had evidently done his work quickly and gently.
There was no emaciation; no traces of suffering; the face was
full and perfect in its contour; and the limbs round and symmetrical.  A  placid and smiling expression, in place of the
ghastly look of death, led to the impression of its being only a
deep and quiet sleep that we gazed on-an illusion strengthened
by the delicate tinge of rouge that had been given to the cheeks
and lips.
On all former occasions, when I have seen the corpse of a
child thus decked out-according to the usage here-I have felt as
if it were a mockery of death and the grave, thus to mingle the
tinsel and vanities of the world with the sad lesson they teach.
But now, however incongruous with the solemnity of such an occasion these fanciful adornments may seem to us, there was nothing
repulsive in the spectacle presented. Indeed, I found myself
insensibly impressed with the extreme beauty of the child, and
the exquisite taste and artistic effect of the drapery in which she
was laid out.  Ingeniously constructed wings of gauze are often
appended to the other adornments of an infant corpse, emblematic of the truth that,
With soul enlarged to angel's size,"
the spirit has taken its flight to a station of blessedness near tl.e
throne of the Redeeamer.  All persons of wealth and position in
16




362              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
society, are thus, in Brazil, borne to the grave in full dress —
the soldier in his uniform, the judge in his robes, the bishop in
his mitre, and the monk in his cowl.
On this occasion, the officiating priest with the bearers of the
crucifix and censers, and other attendants, stood in the midst of
the blaze of wax lights by which the bier was encircled; while
the walls of the church were lined by hundreds of gentlemen of
the first respectability, in full black, and each supporting a candle
of wax of the length and size of an ordinary walking-stick. The
child was of the family of Andrada; a name pre-eminent in the
Province and Empire for patriotism, scientific attainment, and
political distinction.
Towards evening I took a long walk with Mr. Wells.  The
suburbs in every direction are full of rural imagery and picturesque beauty. The rising grounds command extensive views of
undulating land, of water and of mountains; and the roads and
lanes are so walled in by luxuriant hedges of the flowering mimosa, running rose, orange-tree, and coffee bush, as to embower one,
even within a stone's throw of the town, as if in the heart of the
country. The flowers of the mimosa hanging in thick pendants,
cover' the hedges with a mass of whiteness, more entire and more
beautiful than that of the hawthorne, while those of the running
rose, clustering closely like the multiflora, make the roadside they
border one bed of bloom. There is too a repose and tranquillity
in the evenings, and a delicacy in the tintings of the colors at
sunset, that make a stroll at that time of the day peculiarly
delightful.
After a circuit of two miles by an inland route, we approached
the town again by a suburb which constitutes the west end, both
in the topography and the fashion of the place; and exhibits a
succession of pleasant residences surrounded by tastefully arranged
flower-gardens. Just as we were passing the grounds of one of
the most attractive of these, a vehicle, the first I have seen,
except a Romuan ox-cart, since I have been here, overtook us and
drove through an iron gateway into a court, beyond which




COMMENCEMENT OF A NOVENA.                  363
appeared long vistas of gravelled walks and embowering shade.
The carriage was a caleche, or old-fashioned chaise, of rather rude
construction, painted pea-green, with orange-colored wheels and
shafts. It was drawn by a single horse guided by a postilion,
and contained a very stout gray-headed gentleman of sixty, who
entirely filled up a seat designed for the accommodation of two.
It was no less a personage than Lieut. Gen. Bento Manuel, the
highest military officer of the southern section of the Empire,
recently from Rio Grande, where he was long chief in command,
and where he did efficient service for the government during great
political agitation and threatened revolution.  He is so stout
as to be readily excused from walking or riding, and possesses,
with a single exception, the only wheeled carriage in the Island
of St. Catherine's.
The ringing of a cracked bell at the 3Matriz, and the gathering of the population in that direction on the evening of the
21st, led me to it again as a point of observation. It was the
beginning of a Novena, or daily service, of nine days' continuance,
in commemoration of the descent of the Holy Ghost-the following Sabbath being Whit-Sunday. This celebration is universal in
city and country; and is distinguished by an observance, the origin and specific meaning of which I have been unable to trace,
that of the choice and induction into office for a year, of a lad
under the blasphemous title of Emperor of the Holy Ghost.
He presides in mock majesty at the festival, and is regarded with
special honor at all others during his continuance in office.  The
selection is usually from a family of wealth, as the expenses
attendant upon the honor involve an outlay amounting at Rio and
other chief places to five hundred, a thousand, and fifteen hundred dollars. This is appropriated to the furnishing of dress,
music, lights, and refreshments during the celebration. The empire over which he sways the sceptre comprises the apartments of
the church, in which the gifts brought to him by the people in the
name of the Holy Ghost are deposited, and an enclosure adjoining, where auctions are held for the disposal of these to the




364              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
highest bidder. On this occasion, two rooms opening from the
church were gayly fitted up, one-a side-chapel with altar and
crucifix-as a throne-room for the Emperor, and the other for the
temporary deposit of the gifts. In front of these, and communicating directly with them, a large auction-room was erected,
screened by canvas over head, and furnished with benches for the accommodation of spectators and purchasers. The gifts are brought
gratuitously by the people, and the proceeds of the sales go to the
treasury of the brotherhood of the Holy Ghost for purposes of
charity.
As I arrived a procession was just approaching. It was led
by a negro, in a dirty coarse shirt and pantaloons, the common
dress of a slave, bareheaded and barefooted, who bore, a large
flag of red silk, with a dove embroidered on one corner, and long
streamers of ribbons flowing from the top of the staff on which
it was suspended. It was the sacred banner of the Holy Ghost,
a kiss of which, or the burying of the face in its folds, insures
all needed blessing. A little fellow, eight or ten years of age,
followed, beating a small drum with all his might, then came a
man in ordinary dress, thrumming on a guitar the accompaniment of a monotonous ditty, sung at the top of his voice as loud
as he could bawl; the complement of the music being made
up by a fiddle on which a round-shouldered old Portuguese was
sawing and laboring, with fingers, elbow, and head, with an earnestness, to give full effect to the squeaking and screeching sounds
he was sending forth, as if life itself depended on the zeal he
should display.
The Emperor elect now made his appearance, a lad of eleven or
twelve years, neatly dressed in the fashion of a man, as the usage
with boys here is, having a broad red ribbon across his shoulders,
from which was suspended on the breast a large silver star stamped
with a dove, emblematic of the Holy Ghost. Six or eight men
robed in short cloaks or mantles of red silk, the dress of
the brotherhood, bareheaded and carrying lighted wax tapers,
followed him. A rabble of noisy and excited boys and men,.




SINGULAR USAGE.                   365
white, black, and yellow, made up the cortege.  They had been
to escort the Emperor from his residence with becoming honor,
to open the festival.
Previous to his arrival the church had become densely filled,
principally with females, seated closely together on the floormistress and slave, lady and beggar, without distinction of rank
or naime, black, white, and every intermediate hue, the whole
number amounting to six or eight hundred. Through this crowd
the procession made its way up the nave, the musicians still
drumming and thrumming and scraping on their instruments,
and bawling out their song louder than ever. A priest met it at
the high altar; and the whole returned through the church to
the depository in which were the gifts. These he consecrated by
prayer, the sprinkling of holy water and fumigations with incense,
after which, escorted in like manner, he again entered the church.
Hundreds of men in addition to the women, now lined the walls and
stood closely packed together along the entrance to the church, and
the service of the Novena commenced. It was chanted throughout to the accompaniment of a lively, and to me any thing but
a devotional air. The whole sounded very much like that of a song
I recollect to have heard in childhood, beginning with the line
" Marlbro' has gone to the war," as a theme, followed with variations.  At different points in the chanting the whole audience
joined pleasantly in a lively chorus. At the end of an hour this
service closed. The Emperor made his way in the manner in which
he had arrived, to the throne-room, while the audience hastened to
fill to suffocation that for the auction-roomz in front of it. Bonfires
were kindled, rockets sent up, a general illumination outside displayed, while any number of negroes and negresses, venders of
refreshments in cakes, candies, and orgeat, rivalled one another in
bawling out the superior qualities,of their individual stores,
the whole scene much like that of a Fourth of July night at
home.  A band of music struck up in an orchestra near the
throne-rool, and the auctioneer issuing from  the depository,
bearing a bouquet of crystallized sugar, began the sale by a solicita



366              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
tion for bids, setting off the value of the article with the merriment
and sallies of humor which give reputation to the office. A passage
through the centre of the place was kept clear; in this he walked
backwards and forwards, giving exercise to his wit, as he exhibited
the article under the hammer. Most of the gifts, this first evening, consisted of cakes and confectionery.  Some of the bouquets
of sugar flowers were most artistically manufactured; and one
sold for ninety milreis, or forty-five dollars.
Additional gifts were constantly brought in.  They were
generally borne in trays on the heads or in the hands of servants,
accompanied by the giver. Children too were often the bearers;
and one of the prettiest sights of the evening was that of a
beautiful little girl in the arms of her father, carrying in her
bosom two young doves, white as drifted snow, and as gentle and
innocent in look as they were white.
Each offering was made to the young Emperor on the bended
knee, and to each one thus kneeling before him, he extended a
silver dove, forming the end of his sceptre, to be kissed, and
gave in return a small roll of bread. At ten o'clock the auction
closed for the night, and the Emperor was escorted to his home
by torchlight as he had arrived, but with an additional rabble for
his court, and a higher effort in noise and screeching from his
band.
ilay 29th.-Commodore MeKeever and Dr. C — have
been fellow  guests with me at the residence of Mr. Wells
for some days. Previous to their arrival I had taken two or
three pleasant rides with our host, and, this afternoon our whole
party enjoyed another.  The Commodore and I were particularly well mounted; our animals were at once so spirited and
willing, so playful and gentle, with a gait as easy to the riders as
if swaying on the springs of a well-poised carriage.  The weather
too was charming; and our route after the first half mile being
one which we-had not before taken, had the additional attraction
of novelty.  It led southward along the curve of the beach,
and was thickly bordered on one side with the American aloe,




RIDE AT DESTERRO.                   367
now in full flower, and on the other by a succession of neat cottages embowered in orange groves, overtopped by palm trees, with
dooryards gay in the bloom of the scarlet geranium and the
dazzling brilliancy of the poinsetta. The road for a mile was a
continued hamlet, with greater evidences of thrift and general
prosperity than any suburb we had passed through.  On leaving
the water we struck into a narrow valley, lying between two
ranges of hills; and were delighted with the homelike appearance of the well-cultivated fields and rich pasture lands of the
small farms scattered through it. But for the tell-tale palm tree,
the rustling banana, and the golden orange, we might have fancied
ourselves in some prosperous and well-cultivated little valley in
New England. There was nothing to remind us of being in a slave
country. All the labor in cultivating the small plantations is done
by the owners of the soil. The district is well peopled, and the
inhabitants are healthful, prosperous, and seemingly light-hearted.
We met and passed many groups of men and boys, engaged in
various rural employments. They were invariably bright and
cheerful in looks, and most civil and courteous in manners. In
general, they are light and slender in figure, and elastic in movement; but apparently without much stamina, and are far from
good looking in feature.  The females in early youth are passably good looking, and having fine eyes and teeth, might in some
instances, be called pretty; but as mothers, they soon become
haggard and homely. The climate is salubrious and not excessively hot, yet the complexions of the mass are like those with
us who are under the influence of the ague, or just recovering from a bilious fever. This is true of the pure-blooded latives, if any such there be, as well as of those who clearly are
a mixed race.
The special object of our ride was to gain a point of view,
on the top of a mountain, said to be the finest on the island;
and, after a ride of two miles in the valley, we turned into a side
road for the ascent. We followed the meanderings of a stream
as it babbled along its course, and soon came among the cabins




368              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
of the dwellers among the hills, perched like birdsnests on terraced points, on either hand above us, in the midst of groves of
orange trees and coffee plants.  The road gradually changed into
a mere bridle-path, till at the end of an additional two miles it
suddenly'terminated altogether, at a barn near which two men
were standing.  To these Mr. Wells mentioned the object of
our ride, and made an inquiry of them as to the best way to reach
it; when, for the first time since I have been in Brazil, I heard
a reply of ill-nature and incivility. The elder of the two, in a
most gruff and surly manner, said there was no way to go up, and
if there were, there was nothing to go for-wishing to know what
business we had there at all. Without regarding his mood and
manner, Mr. Wells again said, "Is there not a fine prospect
from the top of the mountain, and a path by which we may reach
it? " to which the man again said, " No! there is nothing but
rocks, and I don't know what you can want with them! " Fortunately, at this juncture, a third person made his appearance,
whom our friend at once recognized as a regular customer in
the sale to him of coffee. From. him  we readily learned that
there was a fine prospect, at a short distance further, but that
the ascent to it would not be easily made on horseback; and,
volunteering to lead our animals to his cottage close by, he said
he would accompany us the rest of the distance on foot. We soon
discovered our conductor to differ as widely from his boorish
neighbor in taste for scenery as in disposition.  He was not
only aware of the magnificence of the prospect to which he was
leading us, but said he very often went up to the point commanding it, for the mere enjoyment of so fine a scene. Its elevation
we judged to be two thousand feet; and we were' well repaid for
the ascent by the grand picture spread before us. This embraced
the greater' part of the entire island; its mountains and valleys,
rivers and bays, bold promontories, low points and curving
beaches, with the whole of the straits, and the coasts along the
continent as far as the eye could reach.
On descending to the cottage of our guide, he urged us to




HABITS IN RURAL LIFE.                  369
partake of a cup of coffee before leaving; and we entered his
cabin, more for the purpose of a peep at the domestic economy
of the establishment than with a view to the refreshment.  If
this home, in its aspects of comfort, may be taken as a fair specimen of its class, it indicates a very low state of civilization
among the rural population. It consisted of a single room with
a floor of earth. The few articles of furniture visible were of
the rudest kind, the whole interior exhibiting little more cleanliness and order than the wigwam of an Indian.  A  slatternlylooking wife, surrounded by two or three dirty children, did not
promise much for the nicety of the coffee she might prepare;
and we availed ourselves of the near approach of night and the
length of the ride to the town, as excuse for declining the proffered hospitality.
The habits of life among the people are simple, and their
diet unvarying and frugal.  A  cup of coffee and a biscuit
made of the farina of mandioca, are the only food of the morning, and there is but one set meal during the day, served at
noon.  Preparation for it, however, is the first duty of the
household, in the morning; and consists in putting a kettle of
water over the fire.  In this a small piece of carne seche, or
jerked beef, and black beans, in proportion to the size of the
family, are placed, and kept boiling till the middle of the day.
The leisure of the evening had begun, as we maclde our way
down the mountain; and the inhabitants were seen in groups
around their doors.  Every cabin had its crowd of children, the
ring of whose joyous laughter in their varied sports and play,
echoing from side to side of the little valley, added fresh impressions of pleasure to the scene. The ignorance in which they
are brought up, however, is lamentable. Ignorance not only of
letters and books, but of almost every thing.  A bright-looking
and handsome lad of twelve years, the son of our civil guide, on
being asked his age, said he did not know, and seemed equally
uninstructed in other commonplace matters.  Yet he was evidently as full of natural intelligence in mind as he was active in
P I!.Z




370              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
body.  He is one of the little milkmen I have mentioned, who
crowd the market square in the morning, and who, with his can
of milk on his shoulder, leaves his mountain home every day before
the dawn, for the walk of four miles at least, by the most direct
path: he is home again to his breakfast of coffee and farina, by
eight o'clock.
The Indians and the snakes of this section of the Empire have
been among our topics of conversation with Mr. Wells. The
settlement of the white man extends but a short distance inland
from the coast: not more than fifty or sixty miles at farthest.
The interior is still a wilderness in the possession of wandering
bands of the Aborigines.  These cherish a deadly hatred against
the whites; and, prowling along the frontiers in small companies,
rob and murder them  whenever they find opportunity.  Sometimes they venture within twenty and thirty miles of the coast.
A party of seven, not long since, made an attack at daybreak
upon the shanty of an American, who has put up a saw-mill on
the borders of the forest.  Though single-handed, he hazarded a
shower of their arrows, and afterwards put them to flight by the
show of a musket, that, from  the dampness of the primingpowder, missed fire.
Venomous snakes are said to be numerous on the island, and
some are found occasionally even in the town. Not long since, a
German lady, in returning from a party in the evening with her
husband, trod upon one whose bite is considered to be death.
Fortunately, her foot was placed near its head, and she escaped
its fangs; and though it coiled itself about her ankle, she succeeded in throwing it off without injury. A remedy said to be
a specific for the most virulent poison of these reptiles is kept
at the apothecary's; and families in the country make it a point
to have a supply on hand. The mixture consists of six drachms
of the oil of amber, two of the spirits of ammonia, and one of
alcohol.  The dose is twenty-four drops in a wine-glass of
brandy, or other spirit, three or four times a day; the wound
being also washed and kept wet with it.  The ammonia is the




ANTIDOTE TO THE POISON OF SNAKES.             371
active agent in the cure; and should be given freely till a pro-,fuse perspiration is induced. If the theory of some be true, that
the virus of all snakes is but a modified form of prussic acid, the
volatile alkali, ammonia, is the antidote, as that is known to
neutralize the fatal acid. Alcohol alone is thought to have
effected cures.  A young German here was bitten not long since
in the country, and being without the prescribed antidote, and
unable to obtain it, unwilling to meet in consciousness the doom
which he believed to await him, he swallowed a whole bottle of the
common rumn of the country, that he might be thrown into a state
of insensibility. This was soon the case, and remaining dead drunk
for twenty-four hours, on recovering his consciousness he was free
from all effects of the bite. Here too, there may have been
philosophy in the cure.  The poison of a serpent being a powerful sedative, its effects may be best counteracted by a powerful
stimulant.
A sad case occurred some three weeks ago at Santa Cruz.
A fine young man of twenty, the proprietor of a small plantation,
was at work with his slaves preparing a piece of ground for a
plantation of sugar-cane.  Coming to a spot in which the bushes
and  undergrowth were particularly thick, he cautioned the
negroes against working in it with their naked feet and legs, as it
had the appearance of a piece that might be infested with snakes.
Protected himself by boots, he entered to open a way in advance,
but had scarcely done so before the fangs of a jactaraca, one of the
most poisonous of reptiles, were fastened in an unprotected part
of his leg.  Neglecting to apply immediate remedies, he was in a
short time a corpse.
May 29th.-I have been complying here with the injunction
recently received to "make hundreds of sketches; " and this
morning, while taking one, of the lower parts of the square and
market-house, from  the balcony of the drawing-room, had an
opportunity of introducing the Commodore as a conspicuous
figure. In a stroll in the square before breakfast, he stopped for
a little observation near the groupings of men, donkeys, and




3721             BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
milk-boys in front of the market.  Espying among them  the
bright little fellow we had seen at his father's cabin on the mountain, with the benevolence and good-will of his nature, he bought
the whole stock of boiled beans and farina of an old negro
woman seated on the grass near by, and gave the boys in
general a breakfast. They all seemed delighted, especially the
old negress in receiving the pay, and had quite a frolic. The
gratuity of a penny also fell to each boy. With characteristic
improvidence and a development of the national passion, the
little fellows, after having their stomachs well filled, set to and
gambled with each other for the next hour, till every penny they
had thus received had made its way to one pocket.
Bay 2lst. —The Novena and subsequent auction was in regular continuance every evening of the last week.  On Thursday our
party again attended the former to hear the music, and the latter
to catch the manners of the people. All the chief dignitaries of
the place were present, the President of the Province, the Chief
Justice, the Treasurer, and the Captain of the Port. To the
residence of the last we were invited to a supper at the close of
the auction, and the next morning waited on the President at the
palace, or Government House.  This is a spacious and lofty building, the ground-floor in front serving both as the entrance-hall and
as a guard-room for a company of soldiers, and the corresponding
rooms above being divided into a cabinet for official business on
one side of the staircase, and a grand sala for reception on the
other, with an intervening ante-room common to both.  When
our visit was announced, the President was engaged with official
visitors in his cabinet, but soon made his appearance.  He is a
small, black-eyed, intelligent-looking man, careless and slovenly
in dress, and most simple and republican in his manners. As he
spoke Portuguese only, the conversation was necessarily carried
on through interpretation by Mr. Wells, and the interview was
more brief than it otherwise would have been.
The Presidents of the Provinces are appointed by the Emperor, and their salaries paid from tile Imperial treasury.  These




PRESIDENTS OF THE PROVINCES.              373
vary in amount, in proportion to the extent and importance of the
Province.  That of the President of St. Catherine is four thousand milreis, or two thousand dollars.  The selection for the
office is usually from persons who are strangers in the Province
for which the appointment is made, that the influence of family
connections and personal friendships may not prove temptations
to partiality in the distribution of the gifts and emoluments
under his control.
An anecdote related of a former incumbent of the office,
throws light upon the spirit sometimes induced by party politics
here, and shtlows the despotism in small matters which a high official
may exercise with impunity.  The public square had been lined,
at great care and expense, with a closely planted row of date
palms.  Uniform in height and size, in the course of a few years
they became sufficiently grown to furnish by their plumed tops a
beautiful screen against the sun, and were a great ornament to
the place.  The individual referred to, whose name —Pariero
Pinto-like that of Erostratus, deserves for a similar reason
to be perpetuated, was unpopular as President.  Ambitious,
however, of becoming at the expiration of his term the Deputy
of the Province in the Imperial Legislature, he offered himself to
the people as a candidate. An opponent was elected by acclamation. To avenge himself for the slight manifested by his utter
defeat, he deliberately set the soldiers under his command at
work in felling the palms; and in the course of a single day, the
stately trunks and graceful foliage of the whole were laid in the
dust.
/ay 31st.1-On Saturday the 29th, great preparation was
seen to be making around the principal church for the festival
of Whit-Sunday, which occurred yesterday.  A  row of palm
trees were planted in front; the verandah, in which the auction
during the Novena had been held, was draped and festooned anew
with wreaths of evergreen and gay flowers; and tar-barrels, filled
with combustible materials, were placed on the square for bonfires at night, though the moon is now in her full.  The dawn of




374               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
the next day was ushered in with the ringing of bells, the setting
off of rockets, the beating of drums, and the playing of bands of
music. On looking out, every thing in the vicinity of the church
was seen to indicate a grand festival. The temporary palm grove
looked as if it had sprung up by magic. Gay flags and streamers
of all colors floated from their plumed heads, from the roof of
the church and its verandahs, and from various other points.
After a service of worship in the drawing-room of Mr. Wells,
Dr. C- - and I walked over to witness the scene.  The congregation, consisting chiefly of females, had just begun to assemble. There are no seats or pews in the churches here, the whole
interior being an open area in which all seat themselves, or kneel
upon the bare pavement or floor, without the mat or rug which I
have seen elsewhere.  Soon the whole space became closely
crowded.   Most of the women were in full dress; the predominating  materials being  black silks, satins, and velvets,
with short sleeves and low necks, and a half handkerchief of
fancy-colored silk fastened round the throat by a brooch. A
black lace mantilla upon the head, and the indispensable fan,
completed the costume. The variety of garb, however, was
considerable; and varied according to the circumstances and
position in life of the wearer. Some, as penitents, were draped
in mnantillas of black cloth, so folded over the head as to reach to
the eyes, and fall on either side over the whole figure to the feet.
Two or three colored women, whether veritable Arabs or not,
wore the thick white cotton veil of the women of the East, so
arranged as to leave little of the face except the eyes and nose
exposed, while long cloth cloaks reaching to the floor, enveloped
their persons.  Many of the most expensively and most tastefully
dressed persons were negresses. These entered with a selfpossession in air and movement, if not with a stateliness and
grace, rivalling those of the most aristocratic of the whites; and
were followed, like them, by one or more well-dressed servants.
We were told that they were the wives, and in some instances the
mistresses, of some of the most wealthy of the citizens. A few




CEREMONIES ON WHIT-SUNDAY.                  375
were in colored silks and dress bonnets of Parisian make, but the
black lace veil, with or without the addition of a simple flower,
either natural or artificial in the hair, was the general head-dress.
All the children were arrayed as if for a dress party.  By degrees there was a perfect jam on the floor; the greatest order
and propriety however prevailed, each person sitting quietly with
the face turned reverently towards the high altar.
At length a movement and bustle in the crowd without —the
whizzing and explosion of rockets; the pealing of bells, the
heathenish beating of drums, the tinkling of a guitar, and scraping
of a fiddle, with the bawlings of the accompanying songs indicated
the approach of the young Emperor.  He soon entered the church
with the cortege before described, and forced his way through the
dense mass of women up the nave to the chancel, where seats were
in reserve for his mock court and for the officiating  priests.  The
boy was now robed in imperial dress-white small-clothes, silk
stockings, and gold-buckled pumps; a flowing mantle of state of
crimson velvet and gold, lined with white satin, a ruff of broad
lace around the neck; and over all, the ribbon and decoration of
the Holy Ghost before-mentioned.  A  crown of silver of the
imperial pattern richly wrought, and a silver sceptre were carried
before him on a cushion of velvet. A little- girl of five or six
years, apparently his sister, followed him. She was in full dress
as an Empress, in tissues of silver and gold over pink satin,
with a train of green and gold, and head-dress of ostrich feathers. The lad was seated on a throne, at the right of the high
altar, the mock Empress on a chair of state beside him; the
twenty or thirty gentlemen in attendance stood on the left
opposite, while the vicar and his assistants in the richest of their
priestly adornments, took their stations in the centre at the altar.
All this was done with the most perfect stage effect. As if to
give full opportunity to impress the imagination with this, a
kind of interlude was introduced in the form  of a procession
from the vesting-room  or sacristy, into a side chapel near the
chancel, from which the vicar, under a canopy of crimson velvet,




376               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
supported on four gilt staves by an equal number of attendants,
fetched some seemingly precious thing, the consecrated wafer,
a relic, or the anointing oil, and placed it on the altar where
the crown and sceptre were already laid.  The full coronation
service was now  commenced and performed in all its parts,
including the consecration, the anointing, the crowning, and
the enthronement, followed by the obeisance and kissing of
hands, and ending with the coronation anthem; the whole was
gone through with, seriously and solemnly, as it could have been at
the coronation of Don Pedro himself.  Mass was then chanted,
after which the vicar was escorted through a side chapel to a concealed staircase; and making his appearance in a pulpit projecting
overhead from the wall, proceeded to deliver a sermon of fifteen
or twenty minutes' length. It was for the most part legendary
and fabulous in matter; but throughout impressive and eloquent
in voice and manner. The eager and solemn attention which was
given, and the fixedness of every eye and every ear upon the
speaker, proved the readiness of the people to hear and receive
instruction; and I could but think with deep feeling of the effect
which the preaching of the Gospel in its simplicity might produce,
in speedily substituting the sacrifices of the heart for the crossings
and bowings, the genuflexions and prostrations, with which the
pantomime of the priests at the altar is now accompanied.  I was
never before so deeply impressed with a sense of the profanity
and idolatry of what is here called religion, as while contrasting
in my mind this evidence of a "hearing ear," among the people,
with the puerilities and impiety of the childish show which
preceded the discourse. It is seldom that a sermon is preached,
and more seldom still one that is calculated to edify or produce
any practical effects upon the morals, or true devotion in the
heart. The people are not bigoted, and are desirous of religious
instruction; so much so that, I am told, instances are known in
which individuals have sent fifty miles for a tract; and, it is
thought that they would here readily attend Protestant preaching
in their own language.




PAY OF THE CLERGY.                    377
The vicars of the churches are appointed by the Emperor, and
paid by the state.  The salary of the incumbent at the Matriz is
fifteen hundred milreis, or about seven hundred and fifty dollars;
a living which, with the perquisites of marriage, burial, and
baptism, amounts to about two thousand dollars a year.  In
general the character of these pastors is dissolute. Their vows
of celibacy are openly disregarded; they live almost without
exception in a state of concubinage.  One of the priests here has
a family of ten mulatto children; and another, a former confessor
in the royal family of Portugal and long resident at St. Catherine,
who recently died of yellow fever at Rio, left also a large family.
The Jesuits are more exemplary in regard to their vows of
celibacy, and the bishop of Rio is among those who are above
reproach in this respect.
After the sermon the young Emperor and Empress, attended
by the sacred banner, the noisy musicians, and the usual cortege
of dignitaries, proceeded to their stations in the auction-room,
where the sales, we were told, continued with increased animation
and mirthfulness till 10 o'clock at night.
To-day is a f6te also, and an auction day. During it we made
a call at the residence of the Captain of the Port, in acknowledgment of the civilty of the supper-party to which we had been
invited.  This dignitary was at the church.  Ile was sent for,
and apologized when we took our leave, for not joining us in a
walk, by saying that duty required his attendance upon the
Emperor.
The variety and the quantity of the confectionery made,
presented, and sold at these festivals is surprising. Every device
of ingenuity is put in requisition for the production of it in new
forms.  The lady of the Captain of the Port showed us a very
large tray of work in sugar and flour, most elaborately wrought
in its forms, and tastefully finished in coloring and gilding. It
had been purchased at the auction for forty-two dollars, and
presented to her by a friend. The whole was the workmanship
of an old lady of more than three-score years and ten, who had




378              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
given four months' time to its manufacture.  The chief object
seemed to have been to furnish the greatest variety in man, beast
and bird.  Every article was true to nature in figure and coloring; cottages and groves, fruits, flowers, and vegetables, specimens in conchology, entomology, and the whole range of natural
history, with a wide margin in the catalogue for what was purely
imaginative. The whole presented a striking evidence of the
ingenuity, taste, and unwearying industry of the aged devotee.
And now, you will say, " Why give so much time to the
observation and to the description of such puerilities, to say the
least of them, as constituted the chief services of the church here
on Sunday? " I answer, that I may certainly know by the " seeing of the eye," as well as by the "hearing of the ear," the
distance to which this people are removed from the simplicity
and purity of the Gospel; and that you may judge of the causes
of their ignorance and superstition. These plays are acted, and
these festivals prolonged and varied for the amusement of the
populace, and to keep the masses content under the control of
their spiritual guides. Lights and music, dress and flowers, form
and ceremonies, the waving of banners and swinging of censersthe glare and glitter of the stage, are thus made to excite the
imagination, and satisfy the thoughtless and ignorant mind with
fleeting shadows, in place of enduring good. The whole system
of Romanism as exhibited here, is little else than Paganism
in disguise; a system  in which old idols are presented under
new names, and heathen processions and ceremonies substituted
for that worship- which is "' in spirit and in truth."
June 18th. -We took leave of Mr. Wells and of Desterro
the day following my last date; and two days ago made an
attempt to get to sea; but a head wind set in, and still prevents
our departure. All hands are pleased with the delay; we cannot
soon weary of such a place, the scenery is so beautiful, the
climate so fine, the walks and rides so picturesque and rural, and
the supplies for the refreshment of all hands are so abundant and
so cheap. In addition to the fresh beef furnished to the ship's




PASTIME AT SANTA  CRUZ.                 379
company, any quantity of pigs, turkeys, chickens, eggs, vegetables,
and fruit is offered alongside in canoes, for private trade with the
different messes and with individuals of the crew.
In the attempt to get to sea, we changed our anchorage two
or three miles northward from the forts, and were brought into
the immediate neighborhood of two beautiful little bays, encircled
by gracefully curving beaches of white sand. Both abound in
picturesque and wild scenery; and are in many places filled with
orange groves overburdened with fruit, now in full season.  Far
from any grog-shop or means of dissipation to the crews, the boats
ply backwards and forwards from  the slip to the shore at all
hours of the day, filled with officers and men in the enjoyment of
a kind of saturnalia, in search of fruits, and flowers, and every
thing rare and curious in nature.  Some of the cacti, air plants, and
parasites now in full bloom, are superb in their beauty. A hundred
delicious oranges can be purchased for a penny; and, but for the
presence of our ship, would not be worth to their owners the
shaking from  the trees.  It is, too, the season of sugar-making.
The apparatus and entire process are most rude and simple:
each small plantation being furnished with a primitive mill of
two rollers of timber to extract the juice, and a rough trough or
two to conduct it to a boiler. The eating of the cane, and an
occasional dip into the troughs and into the half crystallized
contents of the cooling-pans, offer to all quite a tempting pastime.  St. Catherine seems to be a province of small proprietors,
whose productions, derived from their own labors, exceed but little
the supply of their private wants.  Each carries to the market a
few hundred pounds only of coffee and of sugar annually-brought
to the purchaser in small quantities, at different times, when some
foreign article is needed.
The coffee of the island is of a superior quality, and the chief
of its products: as it also is of the whole empire, though introduced into the country by the Franciscan Friar Villaso so recently
as the year 1774.  The first bush was planted by him in that year
in the garden of the convent of San Antonio, at Rio de Janiero.




380              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
It was not till the revolt of St. Domingo that its price became
such as to lead to its general culture here. In 1809, when coffee
was first imported into the United States from Brazil, the whole
produce of the empire amounted only to 30,000 bags; this year
it is estimated that it will amount to 2,000,000, or a value of
more than $16,000,000.  The plants blossom in August, September, and October; and the crops are gathered in March, April,
and May.
)Iy last ride at Santa Cruz was with Captain Cathcart, in a
visit to an estate called " Las Palmas," or the palms, recently purchased by him. It lies on the coast, ten miles north of his
present residence.  Mr. W ——, Captain Pearson's clerk, accompanied us, for the purpose of making some correction in the
" plot " of the plantation, drawn by a surveyor. We were to have
started at an early hour of the day, but a pouring rain prevented.
This state of the weather, however, changed afterwards into
occasional heavy showers; and, at the risk of being drenched
by these, we ventured to set off at eleven o'clock. The road is a
mule-track, and at places, for long distances, consists of the hard
sand of the beach. The frequent streams flowing into the sea
from the interior are so swollen by late rains, that we found
difficulty in fording them in safety.  A second heavy shower after
we started, came hastening upon us just as we were entering upon
the longest stretch of beach on the route.  This was smooth and
hard, and afforded us a good opportunity of trying to outstrip the
storm, till we could reach some place of shelter. Captain Cathcart is an exceedingly stout and heavy man-fairly stuffed into
his clothes, and weighing 250 or 280 pounds.  Mr. XV — is very
long and very lean, with legs and neck like a crane, and arms to
correspond.  My own physique is familiar to you; and you would
have been amused at the sight, could you have witnessed the
manner in which we three scampered over this part of the road,
with the pelting rain and rushing wind in full pursuit.  A cotton
umbrella and an overcoat kept me from the wet: but it was the




IMPOVERISHED GERMANS.                  381
last of the old umbrella-before the wind had well reached
us, the outside had become the in, the top the bottom, and the
whole structure of whalebone, steel, and muslin, an irremediable
ruin.
About midway of the distance we came to a hamlet of two
or three miserable huts, the remains of a settlement of poor
Germans, who had been tempted from their distant homes by the
flattering inducements to immigration held out by the government.
of Brazil, but t6 whom, on their arrival, the poorest sections of
land in the region had been allotted as the promised gratuity.
These, the settlers had no means of making profitable; and they
are now left to disappointment and neglect.  They are wretchedly
poor; and those of them whom we saw looked pale and thin, careworn and ill.  Immediately beside the steep and worn-out lands
assigned to them, there is a wide tract of level country belonging
to the government, upon which these poor foreigners, had it been
appropriated to them, would not only have gained a living, but in
all probability acquired an independence.
On leaving these cabins, at which we halted a moment for
a cup of water, we began to ascend the spur of a mountain
which forms a headland on the coast, separating the bay along
the beach of which we had come, from that on the opposite side,
where the estate we were to visit is situated.  The hill is unwooded and steep, the path was very slippery, and the ascent
difficult; but we accomplished it slowly, with fine views on our
right over a widespread alluvial plain covered with thick set
forests:
" A habitation sober and demure
For ruminating creatures: a domain
For quiet things to wander in; a haunt
In which the heron should delight to feed
By the shy rivers,' and the pelican
Upon the cypress and the pine in lonely thought,
Might sit and sun himself."




382              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
In place of the heron and the pelican, however, we had the
Urapongo-a large bird of the parrot tribe, which, like
"A flaky weight of winter's purest snow,"
was clearly seen at a long distance in brilliant whiteness amid
the dark green of a tree-top-sending forth its peculiar and
solitary song, in notes as shrill and metallic as the gratings of a
coarse file upon steel, of which they forcibly reminded me.
Cathcart, from his Anglo-Saxon enterprise and energy, and
consequent thrift and increasing wealth, has become quite the
great man of the region; and seems to be in favor and on most
familiar terms with all the inhabitants, black and white.  He
gave to every dwelling we passed by, whether near at hand or
afar off, a hail of good will in one form or another, calling forth a
quick response from the unseen occupants, and the speedy appearance of master, mistress, or slave. After gaining the level of
the mountain, we came upon a cluster of mud houses surrounded
by an orange grove, situated upon an elevation on one side of the
road, the owner of which, an old Portuguese, we were told was
worth a hundred thousand milreis, or more than fifty thousand
dollars. As he will be the next neighbor of our host on his new
estate, we turned aside for a moment to interchange salutations
with the family. The whole aspect of things, in huts and
negroes, in the mistress and an only child, a boy of ten or twelve
years, was very slovenly, very slip-shod, and very filthy. The
wife is a lively, black-eyed, chatty woman, scarcely yet in
middle life; but the husband a gray-headed and withered old
man of more than three-score years and ten.  He is a great
miser; and had on an old jacket of many colors, with patch upon
patch, till it appeared to be of treble thickness. This he always wears both at home and abroad, and never by any chance
lays aside. It is said to be inlaid with gold. The captain began
at once to banter with him for the purchase of it, offering a very
large sum, and causing by his jests in regard to it,.great laughter
among the negroes, and one or two white laborers near by; but




ESTATE OF LAS PALMAS.                  383
the owner seemed to have no notion to close a bargain in the case.
We did not dismount; but accepted the offer of a drink of fresh
cane-juice from a sugar mill near by. It was brought to us in an
old calabash, and tasted neither sweet nor clean.
Before reaching this place, we had entered into a wood, and
were charmed with the variety and brilliancy of the bloomscarlet and yellow, pink, purple, and white-exhibited in airplants and parasites, creepers and flowery trees. Besides a great
variety of the palm, there were wild figs, laurels, myrtles, cassias,
and a kind of silk cotton tree —chorisia speciosa-with large rosecolored blossoms. The climbers are superb; and give to the trees
they overrun an air of great magnificence. This is particularly the
case in the Solandra grandiflora, with its large trumpet-shaped
flowers; and a species of fusehia-fuschia integrifolia, which,
running up to the tops of the loftiest trees, falls down in graceful
festoons of crimson flowers. Among the undergrowth the scarlet
blossom  of the cana speciosa glared brightly on the eye.  The
forest did not appear to be primitive; but here and there a
monarch of the wood was seen, which could have attained its
height and widespread dimensions only by the growth of centuries.
While yet high on the mountain's side, we opened a full and
magnificent view of the new purchase of Captain Cathcart.  It
embraces the entire superficies of a rich valley, ten miles at least
in circumference, encircled on three sides by lofty timber-covered
mountains, whose tops are the boundaries of the possession.
These terminate on either hand in bold promontories, jutting into
the sea, while between them sweeps a curving sand-beach, a mile
and more in extent.  A fine stream meanders through this domain.
A rocky islet, in the centre of the bay formed by the projecting
headlands, is tufted with palm-trees, and gives name to the estate.
Though but partially reclaimed from its primitive condition, and
for the most part a luxuriant mass of woodland only, in its wide
expanse, manifest richness of soil, and evident capabilities of
improvement under the axe and the plough, it seemed to the eye as
thus pointed out to us, to be quite a principality. As an isolated




384              BRAZIL. AND. LA PLATA.
possession I have seen nothing like it in Brazil. The history of
the property may have added, perhaps, to the interest with which
I looked upon it now in the hands of a new possessor. The late
proprietor, Seior De L-, a man of good family, good education
and good breeding, had been reduced by his imprudence, mismanagement, indolence, and I may add vice, to the necessity of
disposing of it at a ruinous sacrifice. I had seen him the day
before on board the Congress, bearing the air and address of a
gentleman, mingled with the dejection of a confessed bankrupt:
one not able to work, and too proud to beg. In the morning
before setting off from the consulate, I had met, too, a daughter
of his, of eighteen, decidedly the finest-looking and most attractive
native female I have seen in Brazil: lovely, not only from positive
beauty, but from evident amiability and feminine gentleness.
And now, when I saw the exulting eye with which the new purchaser, the rough and uneducated whaleman, surveyed the lordly
domain, I could not but think of the dispossessed and impoverished gentleman and his children, and sympathise with them in
the loss of such. an estate.
Shortly after commencing the gradual descent of'the mountain, a rustic gate was pointed out as the entrance to" the Palms."
The distance from this to the house is about two miles; and a
little taste and labor would convert it into a parklike and lovely
drive-first through interlacing woods down the declivity, and then
over the green sward of a natural meadow, belted and dotted for a
mile with groves, and clamps, and single trees of natural growth.
The house is a substantial old mansion of brick stuccoed, with
tiled roof and encircling verandahs.  It stands in the midst of a
lawn fronting the small river, which here empties with a serpentine sweep into the sea. It commands the entire view of
the valley and encircling mountains, of the bay, its promontories and islets, and the distant sea. These lands have been a
seigniory from  the earliest settlement of the country; and
the house was built a hundred years ago, when the proprietor
was in office under government. It is most substantially con



SENOR DE L.                 385
structed; and the window frames, door-posts and doors, and the
columns of the verandahs, though never painted, are yet in perfect
preservation; the close-grained wood of which they are formed,
on being slightly scraped, exhibits the soundness and brightness
of mahogany.  In all things more perishable the establishment
is in a most neglected and dilapidated state.  The furniture has
been removed, excepting that of a lofty and spacious dining-room,
where a long and heavy old table-a fixture, with benches along
each side, of corresponding fashion, still remains: all else is the
perfect picture of ruined fortunes and deserted halls.
A servant had preceded us on foot with a basket of refreshments.  To the contents of this was added an abundance of fine
oysters from the mouth of the river, into which a heavy surf and
daily tides pour floods of salt-water over the oyster-beds.  When
called to this repast, I was quite surprised to see, lying open on
one end of the table, a large mahogany case with lining of crimson
velvet, filled with a full dinner-set of heavy old plate of rich
and massive patterns-including knives, forks, and spoons, of all
sizes. In explanation, the captain told us it was the property of
Senior De L   -, left here on his removal from the house; and
now brought forward in the hope of having it bought by him,
adding, " but I was born with an iron spoon in my mouth, and am
used to one still; and I have made up my mind, unless I can get
the set for —," naming a sum not one third of its value, even as
old silver, " I will never take it."  Conscious, probably, from the
knowledge he had of the necessities of the poor se~or, that they
were sure to be eventually his at his own price.
But why, you will ask, these details in a matter of no moment?
I answer, because I know not when my feelings have been more
interested, or my sympathy more excited than by an incident of
the day, directly associated with them. Every thing without was
so wet after the heavy rain, that we were confined on our arrival
very much to the house and verandahs.  Knowing that the family
of De L~  had removed, and that a few slaves only of Captain
Cathcart were in charge of the place, I was surprised to see a
17




386              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
fine-looking, and strikingly handsome young man approach from
a thicket near by. His only dress was a white cotton shirt, open
at the throat, and a pair of pantaloons of blue nankeen, old and
faded, but both perfectly clean and neat. Though bareheaded
and barefooted, he moved with the self-possessed air and manner
of a gentleman. Before I could ask, I was told he was a son of
the late proprietor; brother of the young lady I had met at the
consul's in the morning, and between whom  there is a very
strong attachment, as well as a very striking resemblance. The
father, like too many others in this country, was never married;
but as is extensively the custom here, he has several sets of
children by different women-the secret of his wasted fortune.
After an introduction to the young man, struck with his Adonislike beauty both in figure and face-so like his sister as to
lead to the supposition that they were twins, I felt some curiosity
to know his age, and after a little conversation asked him in
Portuguese how old he was?  Though evidently bright and intelligent by nature, his reply was, " I do not know —my father can
tell! "  The captain immediately said to me in English, "; There
you have a sample of the utter ignorance in which these people
are brought up; they know nothing, and are taught nothing
worth knowing. This is a very nice young man as you see; but
his father has given him no education. Poor boy! I felt very
sorry for him the day I closed the purchase of this place and'clinched' the bargain.  He knew I had been some time in
negotiation for it; was present at the moment, and seemed very
anxious about the result; and when he saw that the whole was
sold without any reservation, and the case settled, the tears
started to his eyes, and he said-' So, father, you have sold all
your property, and I am left to be like a negro! You always
told me I should have a part of this land. Had you done any
thing for me, had you given me any education, or taught me to
do any thing, the case would have been different, and I would not
have cared. But you have done nothing for me, and have not
taught me to do any thing for myself; and now have sold all your




ANTONIO DE L ——.                    387
land, and left me to work lile a negro!' The father could only
reply with tears,' I know it, my soin, but I cannot help it: I am in
debt eleven thousand milreis, and have nothing to meet it but the
two thousand five hundred which Captain Cathcart pays me for
this property.'"  I thus became acquainted with the terms of the
purchase-about twelve hundred and fifty dollars for two or three
miles square of the finest land in the region, parts of which at
least have been long under cultivation! Antonio, the name of
the young man, had himself, previously to the sale, planted a
piece of the land with cane and mandioca, and asked the consul
afterwards whether he might still work upon it, and gather the
crops.  He says his reply was, " Yes, my son, and call upon my
negroes here to help you, and bid them work for you as if they
were your own." lHe is now there with a single remaining slave
of his father, for this purpose.  Captain Catheart invited him to
join us at luncheon. He seems interested in him, and says that
as soon as he removes from Santa Cruz himself, which he intends
to do almost immediately, he will take the lad to live with him,
and will be his friend.  I trust he will be true to his word, and
faithful to the promise in the case which I exacted from him.
He is evidently greatly elated by the purchase, as well he may
be, if he can reconcile his conscience to the price which the
necessities of the seller forced him  to accept for it.  While
looking over and pointing to a very small section of it, he said to
me, " Mr. S, if, when, as a boat-steerer on board a whale-ship
I first met you at the Sandwich Islands, I had thought I should
ever have been the owner of such a hillside as that, I would have
felt amazing proud! " the continuation of the sentiment being of
course —'"judge then how I feel now, as the lord of this widespread manor, and the monarch of all I survey!"  Wherever
he turns his eyes, he sees and speaks of its varied capabilities for
sugar, mandioca, rice, corn, cotton,' coffee, cattle, hogs, timberand if spared in life and health a few years, it is probable his
present visions of the wealth to be derived from it, will be fully
realized.  While he was speaking thus, I again begged him  to




388              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
befriend Antonio, whose sad and dejected looks during our whole
stay were in such strong contrast with the self-satisfied air and
high spirits of his dispossessor.  The deep pensiveness spread
over the manly and handsome face of the young man as we bade
him adieu, and his attitude-till we lost sight of him in the
distance —leaning his head and shoulders against a pillar of the
verandah with folded arms, as if lost in sad abstraction, still haunt
me.
BtuENOS A~RES.
June 30th.-For a third time I date from Buenos Ayres.
The continued prevalence of the yellow fever at Rio de Janiero
forbade a visit of the Congress there, on leaving St. Catherine;
and the alternate was a return to Montevideo. On arriving at
that place, general liberty on shore was accorded to the crew;
and a bearer of despatches to the American minister here being
required, I gladly availed myself of the Commodore's kindness
in appointing me to the duty.
When I left Buenos Ayres in February, the town and province were under the rule of the Provisional Governor, appointed
by Urquiza. As speedily afterwards as possible, a constitutional
election was held for that office, and the same person'was chosen
by the people. Since then, a Congress of the Governors of the
Provinces has been held at San Nicolas de Aroya, a city two
hundred miles from Buenos Ayres up the Parana. This was preparatory to a general convention of delegates, for the formation
and adoption of a federal constitution for the United Provinces,
after the model of that of the United States; Urquiza being
appointed for the interval Provisional Director of the Argentine
Confederation.  The result of the deliberations of the Governors
has just been proclaimed, and the articles of agreement have been
published. These, though seemingly wise and just, are unsatisfactory to the Portenos or Buenos Ayrians.  Claiming, from their
larger population, greater wealth, and higher civilization, a preponderating vote and influence among the States, they are unwil



COUP D' ETAT BY URQUIZA.                389
ling to confirm the act of the Governors, which will limit them
in the proposed general Congress, to the same number of representatives or delegates, with each of the other Provinces. The
House of Representatives of Buenos Ayres, or Sala, as the body
is here styled, immediately denounced the proceeding by strong
-resolutions; and great public excitement took place.  On learning this, Urquiza, who has returned from St. Nicolas, withdrew
his troops from their quarters in the city, planted a battery of
guns on the parade ground near the cavalry barracks, which commands the town, and despatched a messenger to the President of
the Chambers, with orders for the immediate dissolution of that
body under the alternative of having it dispersed by his guns.
The announcement of this led each member quietly to take his
hat and leave the hall, notwithstanding the valorous resolution
of the previous day, in which the determination had been avowed
of sacrificing their lives rather than their liberty.
Two thousand or more of the citizens not long since organized
themselves into a national guard; each individual having equipped
himself at his own outlay, in a showy and expensive uniform.
During the agitation of the Chamber, under the action of the
Congress of San Nicolas, these sent a messenger to the house to
assure the representatives that they would repair to their sittings
and stand by them  to the death.  They were, however, at the
time, much in need of percussion caps for their muskets. Urquiza hearing of this, and that diligent search was being made in
the city for a supply, sent his own orderly to their barracks, with
a couple of packages; and, it is said, called himself in the afternoon of the same day to inquire whether they had been received,
and to say he would be happy to furnish them with a larger
quantity if needed! Thus showing his utter contempt for the
bravado of the' shop-keepers,' as he calls them. On the dissolution of the Chamber this brave guard very speedily disbanded;
and the next day small parties of the soldiers of Urquiza, in command of subalterns, went from house to house throughout the
city, and took possession, without resistance, of all the arms




390               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
they could find. Urquiza proclaimed himself Provisional Chief,
but continued in office under him  the Governor who had been
elected by the people. All things are going on quietly under
this coup d'. tat.
The general judgment of those who have had the best opportunity of knowing the people, is, that they are incapable of enlightened and stable self-government.  Urquiza is regarded by these as
greatly in advance of other chieftains of the Plata, in enlarged
and patriotic views and principles. Full confidence is placed in
his integrity of purpose, as well as in his firmness and daring of
will.
His personal bravery at all events cannot be doubted. During the height of the excitement of the last week, while execrations loud and long were poured upon him by designing partisans
and their followers, he rode fearlessly about the city attended by
a single officer; and is resolved, at all personal hazard, to carry
out the measures and policy which he thinks needful for the best
interests, not only of Buenos Ayres, as a city and province, but
of all the Argentine States: He believes the consolidation of
the whole under a constitutionally appointed chief executive, indispensable to their permanent prosperity; and this it is his purpose to achieve.
July 20th.-It is seldom that the Rev. Mr. Lore of the Wesleyan Mission can avail himself of the assistance of a brother
clergyman; and I have cheerfully taken upon myself, at his solicitation, on each Sabbath of my several visits here, two of the three
services held in the chapel on that day and evening. The ordinary
number of worshippers amounts to about four hundred, of whom
fifty are church members. The established religion of the State
being that of the Roman Church, and the civil regulations of the
country not permitting Protestant preaching to the natives in their
own language, the congregation and church consist exclusively of
foreign residents-American, English, Scotch and Irish: of
these, the greatest number are English.  An interesting and flourishing Sunday school of two hundred and fifty scholars, is attached




REV. MR. AND MRS. LORE.                391
to the church, and in addition to the public services of the Sabbath, a weekly lecture and prayer-meeting are held in the chapel.
The Sabbath after my arrival was that of the Communion.  On
the Thursday evening previous, Mr. Lore preached a preparatory
sermon, and on the Sunday six new members were received into
the church. They were all young persons, and of both sexes.
A more than ordinary proportion of the church members are in
their youth. It is a cheering sight to perceive among them so
many young men, thus openly and decidedly choosing a life of
piety in the midst of a city of general indulgence in worldliness
and pleasure, and almost universal moral dereliction. In the
full toleration of Protestant worship thus allowed, and in the
open example seen and acknowledged by all-even of a few consistent and truly spiritual Christians, there is hope for this land:
there is light shed abroad which cannot be hid, and seed sown which
has already sprung up and borne fruit.  Many things seem to indicate that, in the providence of God, the ignorant, superstitious and
benighted population, is destined in the progress of time to give
place by immigration from foreign lands, to those better fitted in
mind and education, in energy and enterprise, and in enlightened
principles, political, moral and religious, to mould the destinies
of the nation and build up a free and prosperous empire.  One
cannot fail in passing along the streets, to be forcibly struck with
the prevalence of the English language.  You can scarcely
move a square in any direction without overhearing it; while
French, German, Portuguese and Italian-the patois of the
Basques and the Gaelic dialect of the Scotch and Irish, are
liberally intermingled.
Mr. Lore is deservedly popular in his position, both as a man
and as a minister.  He is an able and interesting preacher, and a
faithful and affectionate pastor: ready to every good work-the
comforter of the sick and afflicted, and the friend and benefactor
of the poor and destitute. Mrs. Lore too, is admirably fitted for
her station, and, full of gentleness and amiability, is universally
beloved.  The history of Protestant worship in Buenos Ayres




392              RRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
may be briefly given. Its origin dates as far back as the year
1820.  On Sunday, the 18th of November in that year, Protestant religious worship was first held here in a private house.
The assembly numbered nine persons, the worship being led by
Mr. Thompson, a Scotch Presbyterian, who had arrived in the
city under the auspices of the " British and' oreign School Society," with the purpose of establishing schools on the Lancastrian
system; and had so far succeeded in his object as to be then employed by the government as superintendent of a school of this
description. This lay worship was continued till the year 1822.
In 1823 the Rev. Dr. Brigham, now long the secretary of the
American Bible Society, and the Rev. Mr. Parvin, an associate,
arrived as agents of the Bible and Missionary Societies, and by
them preaching was established in a private house.  Dr. Brigham, after a time, carried his agency to Chili and Peru, and returned to the United States; while Mr. Parvin continued resident here, as a preacher and teacher, till the year 1827. In this
year he was joined by the Rev. Mr. Torrey, first as an assistant,
and soon as successor, both in teaching and preaching.  Mr. Torrey continued in Buenos Ayres till the year 1836; when relinquishing his position and returning to the United States, worship according to the Presbyterian form ceased, without any
attempt having been made to organize a church.
The field was thus left open to the labors of the Methodist
Episcopal Church; the Rev. Mr. Pitts, a missionary of this
denomination, having arrived at Buenos Ayres about the time Mr.
Torrey left.  He preached, however, but a short time, and returning to the United States, was succeeded in the year 1837 by
the Rev. Mr. Dempster.  Public worship was continued by him
in the same house in which Mr. Torrey had held his services;
and his preaching was soon followed with such success as to
demand an enlarged place for the congregation. In the ensuing
year a lot in a very eligible situation was purchased for the erec
tion of a church and mission house; the funds being provided
for the purpose, partly by subscription in Buenos Ayres, and




PROTESTANT CHURCHES.                  393
partly by an appropriation from the Methodist Missionary Society
at home.  The buildings subsequently erected are the present
chapel and parsonage, on the principal street of the city, immediately opposite the stately church of the Merced.  The chapel, a
neat and simple structure, sixty feet in length by forty in width,
with a faqade in Grecian architecture, fronts upon the street;
while the mission house or parsonage, approached by a passage
on one side of the chapel, occupies the rear of the lot. A court,
ornamented with shrubbery and trellised grape-vines, separates
the two, giving to the premises a retired and rural aspect, attractive, and appropriate to the character of the occupants.  The
Rev. Mr. Dempster was succeeded in 1843, by the Rev. Mr.
Norris; and this gentleman again in 1848, by Mr. Lore.  The
church and congregation are now not only self-sustaining, as to the
support of the pastor and all the incidental expenses of the mnission, but contribute liberally, according to their means, to the general societies at home for the promotion of the cause of Christ.
Besides the Wesleyan congregation and church, there are now
in Buenos Ayres three of other Protestant denominations: one
British Episcopalian, one Scotch Presbyterian, and one Reformed
German. All these have much larger and finer buildings for
worship, and much larger and more wealthy congregations.  The
salary of the Rev. Mr. Falkner of the British Church, amounts
to $4000. The Scotch congregation, under the pastoral charge
of Rev. Mr. Smith, is of the Established Church of Scotland, and also partly under governmental support. The German
Church, whose pastor is the Rev. Mr. Seigle, has just completed
a new place of worship; a beautiful specimen of Gothic architecture, and an ornament to the city. These congregations have
each a large and flourishing day school under its supervision and
patronage, beside Sunday schools.
I have renewed my intercourse most agreeably with several
families here-particularly with that of Mr. H  -, who is a
fellow-Jerseyman.  Mrs. H-  is also from Jersey; a.d I have
a standing invitation to breakfast with them on buckwheat cakes,
17*




394              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
so favorite an article of diet there.  The L —s and the Z —-s
of Montevideo, too, are now here.  Among the acquaintances
newly made, and to whom I am indebted for hospitality, are the
J     s; Mrs. J —   being the daughter of an old friend, Captain M-  of the Navy.  They occupy a tasteful and pleasantly
situated quinta in the eastern suburbs of the city, where they
entertain their friends with elegance; adding to a generous hospitality, the charm of fine music, in which, both vocal and instrumental, Mrs. J —--- excels.
I have been desirous for some time, of making an excursion
into the " Camp," as the flat country of the Pampas south of the
city is called, in a visit to the estancia, or cattle farm of an
American of respectability, but have not yet had it in my power
to accomplish the purpose.  My opportunities for sight-seeing have
consequently been limited to the city. The room I occupy is on the
second floor of a house finely situated on the edge of the bluff
upon which the town lies.  Its windows on one side overlook the
quadrangular court communicating with the street.  In this there
are some magnificent specimens of cacti; among which are a
prickly pear twenty feet in height, with a trunk like a tree,
now covered with primrose-colored blossoms; and an octagonal
plant of the same genus nearly as tall, filled with those that are of
brilliant crimson.  There is in it also a magnificent specimen of
the " Uca Gloriosa."  The' view from the other side commands the
whole length of the alameda or public walk, the river, with the inner
and the outer anchorage, and all the movements of the roadstead
and landing.  When the tide is out, the sands to the east, for a mile
or more, are nearly or quite bare. At all times, except when the
water is at flood, the landing of passengers and freight is by cart.
Familiarity with the sight does not take from its interest.  Sometimes both horses and carts are seen half submerged in the waterintermingled with boats, some under sail and others pulled by
oars,-the drivers, to keep themselves from  being wet, standing
on the shoulders of their beasts, in the manner of circus-riders.
It is amusing to see them start from the shore on the approach




RIVER SCENES.                    395
of a boat or boats with passengers.  They rush off under the
shouts and lashings of the drivers, plunging and ploughing through
the water, over the rocks and into holes in the rough bottom, in
utter disregard of every thing except a first chance at a customer.
The horses are so well trained to the business, that the carts are
as readily turned and backed up to a boat on reaching it, as a
fish is moved in the water by its fins. The whole performance is
so droll and amphibious, that I never cease to be amused in witnessing it. When the water is low, freight and passengers are often
taken on board these carts from small vessels at their anchorage.
At such times too, horsemen and dogs, and various other animals,
are seen scampering over the sands in the shoal water, as if the
mirror-like surface were the ice of a frozen river.
When the wind is fresh, a heavy sea rolls over the sands.
Then the vocation of the carts is at an end, and they seek
the security of the shore.  The boats too, securely anchored
outside the rocks, are left to toss upon the water by themselves,
and for the time-being, a non-intercourse occurs between the shipping and the shore.
The construction of a mole to extend beyond the sands is
entirely practicable, and would be of immense importance, and a
great saving of expense in the trade of the place.  So essential a
work should have been accomplished a century ago. Had the
amount lavished by Rosas in redeeming the marshes of Palermo,
and in rearing, upon them his country palace, been thus appropriated, it would long since have secured a convenient and safe landing both for goods and passengers, and have been a lasting and
honorable monument of his public spirit and patriotism.  A day
or two since a detachment of the troops of Urquiza embarked
from this landing on their return to Entre-Rios.  It is the winter
season; the weather was wet, cold, and piercing, and the whole
number, amounting to some hundreds, were kept for hours, shivering in the exposure incident to the slow means of getting off to
the transports in which they were to sail; first in squads of eight
or ten in a cart, and then in equal numbers in small boats.




396              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
The lecheros and panderos-the milkmen and bakers- form
striking features in the scenes of the street in the early morning.
Both grades are invariably mounted on shabby, rough-coated
little horses or mules.   They seat themselves very longitudinally on the shoulder-blades of the beasts, their legs being
stretched out almost at full length; while the supplies they carry
for distribution are balanced on either side from neck to tail-the
milk in long tin cans of different sizes, stowed in different compartments of leather fixtures, something in the form  of oldfashioned saddle-bags. The bread is distributed from immense
panniers of ox-hide, cured with the hair on, made oval, in bandbox form, burying the animal beneath their ponderous shapes, and
half blocking up the street as they pass. There is nothing
especially peculiar in the dress of the bakers, they being dwellers
in the city, and generally French, German, or Spanish by birth
and in costume; but the milkmen from the country, at distances
from five to fifteen miles, furnish illustrations of the grotesque and
comical worthy of the pencil of a Cruikshank or Wilkie.  None
but an artist could do justice to their slouched hats of every form,
the cotton handkerchief of divers figures and colors in which their
necks and faces are bundled up, their ponchos of every huetheir cheripas of various materials from scarlet broadcloth and
gayly-figured merinos, to horse-blankets, and fire-rugs; while halfyard wide pantalets of white cotton tamboured and fringed and
worn over heavy boots or leggings of calfskin, make. up the sketch.
On entering the plaza about seven o'clock a few mornings ago,
I saw some hundreds or more of these figures, with their horses and
milk-cans, grouped before the police office at the Cabildo or town
hall.  The spectacle was one of the most singular I have met,
and led to an inquiry as to the cause of the unusual gathering.
In answer, I learned that the extent to which the watering of the
milk had been carried had led to the interference of the police.
On that morning, every milkman as he entered the city fomnd
himself unexpectedly under arrest, and was hurried to the office
of the chief, to have the product of his cows put to a test.  All




HON. MfR. SCHENCK.                  397
were now busy lugging their cans into the town hall to be thus
cleared from the imputation of defrauding their customers, or, if
found guilty, to pay the fine imposed by the laws of the municipality. I did not wait to learn the result, but believe few escaped
the penalty.
To one informed of the extent of vexation and labor- required
in securing the milk, it is scarcely a wonder that it should be well
watered before being brought to market. The cows of the native
breed are impracticable to all domestic training or discipline.
They not only require to be lassoed every time they are milked,
but must be also tied-head and foot, and during the operation have
their calves by their sides. These must be permitted to draw
the milk alternately with the use of the hand by the milkman,
or nothing can be obtained from the animal.  Much time is thus
taken up in the operation; and the result is only about a quart of
milk a day from each cow, and a pound of butter a week. The
consequence is that milk commands from twelve to fifteen cents
a quart; and butter from sixty-two to seventy-five cents a pound.
The supply is furnished chiefly by the German and Basque
settlers. The natives are for the most part too indolent to take
so much trouble for the returns made, either for their own use or
for sale.
RIO DE JANEIRO.
September 20th.-We returned to this port on the 13th inst:
bringing passengers with us, Mr. Schenck, Charg6 d'Affaires at
the Court of Brazil, and a nephew, his private secretary.  In
addition to the diplomatic office he holds here, he was recently
appointed by our government Envoy Extraordinary to the Reputblics of the Plata, for the purpose of negotiating, in conjunction
with Mr. Pendleton, treaties of friendship and commerce.  The
unsettled state of affairs in the Argentine Provinces, however,
interfered with the completion of this mission, and he has returned for a time to Rio de Janeiro.
Mr. Pendleton accompanied him as far as Montevideo; and
during a brief sojourn there, the two diplomatists, with the aid of




398              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
Mr. Glover as interpreter and secretary, formed a treaty with
the Republic of Uruguay, by which the United States are placed
here upon a footing with the most favored nations. The promptitude, industry, and despatch of the ambassadors in the negotiation quite astonished the ceremonious, indolent, and procrastinating ministers, of Spanish-American blood.  After it was once
initiated, they allowed themselves scarcely the relaxation of an
hour till the parchments were engrossed; and the ink in their
signatures was not well dry before the Chief Envoy was on his
way with us to this place.
I will let an incident occurring at Buenos Ayres speak his
general character.  While last there, I occupied furnished rooms
in the establishment of a shrewd, sharp-eyed, talkative Englishwoman. The window of her private apartment commanded the
well-guarded portal, opening from  the street into the pateo or
quadrangle of the house; and from it she kept a watchful lookout
on the movements of her lodgers and their visitors. A short
time after I had taken up my quarters there, Mr. Schenck called
upon me. My landlady soon became informed, by some means,
of his name and position; and with the notions of rank common
among those in humble life in her own country, was quite excited
by the distinction conferred upon her lodger, and seizing the first
chance afterwards of waylaying me, gave vent to her feelings on
the subject by the exclamation-" And indeed, sir! so you have
had the honor of a visit from your minister, the new ambassador!
La me! I said to myself as I saw him come in,' Why who can
that very genteel, delicate-looking, strange gentleman be?' But
I knew him at once for a diplomat. I can always tell them. I
have had a great deal to do with them —Sir Charles Hotham, Sir
WVilliam Ousely-and I know them at once, they are so cleverso very, very clever! Oh! rely upon it, sir! your ambassador
is a very clever man: I could see it in his eye, sir! and then it
was so kind in him to call. I knew him for a diplomat-so very
genteel, and so clever," adding, " Clever, sir, clever-very, very
clever!  as she bowed herself backwards into her little room, as




REV. MR. AND MRS. FLETCHER.               399
if retreating after a presentation at court. And clever, indeed,
Mr. Schenck is, both in the English and American use of the
term. In regard to the last, he has given very decided proof in
his great kindness to the Rev. Mr. Fletcher, seamen's chaplain
here, who with Mrs. Fletcher arrived from the United States
shortly after the Congress left, eight months ago. They early
became settled in a hired cottage, but when Mr. Schenck received
the diplomatic appointment to the Plata, he constrained them to
leave it, and with their family to take possession during his
absence, of the embassy and all its appointments, in furniture,
servants, carriages and horses; and as it will be necessary for him
to return to Buenos Ayres at the end of two or three months, wrote
to them before leaving the river, that he came now only to be their
guest till he should be recalled there by duty for an indefinite
time. They are thus permanently at home with him.
Mr. Fletcher on his arrival, entered at once zealously upon the
discharge of the duties of his position; and, while the yellow fever
has again yaged for months as an epedemic among the shipping and
on shore, has been indefatigable in preaching the Gospel to the
well, in nursing and comforting the sick and dying, and in consoling the afflicted, of whom there have been many among American
and English shipmasters, who have had members of their families
in greater or less numbers on board their ships with them, some
of whom have died under very affecting circumstances.
The Rev. Mr. Graham, rector of the English Episcopal Church,
has service in a neat chapel in the city on the morning of the
Sabbath; Mr. Fletcher at the same time preaches to the seamen
in port, on board some ship in the harbor, and in the afternoon
holds worship in the drawing-roomn of the American Consulate.
I have assisted him in this service since our arrival, and have felt
it a privilege and a blessing to join the " two or three," who
assemble there for praise and prayer, and to hear the preached
word.  The music is led by Mrs. Fletcher at the piano; and she is
assisted vocally by Mrs. K  -. This excellent person is a good
representative abroad of her fellow-countrywomen of New Eng



400                BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
land at home —sensible, intelligent, practical: ever decided in
her expression of moral principle, and ever constant in the exhibition of her religious character. She has been greatly afflicted
by the bereavements which have befallen her here in a strange
land; but resigned in spirit, seems by them to be the better fitted
for the duties of a Christian in this life, as well as for the inheritance which is to be the reward of such in the life to come.  Mrs.
F~  is not less strikingly the type of her class in Europe. She is
a, daughter of the distinguished and apostolic minister of Geneva,
Coesar Malan; and highly educated and accomplished, seems fitted
alike
"to shine in courts,
Or grace the humbler wvalks of life."




CHAPTEIR XXIX.
CONSTANTIA.
November 22d.-A  few days at " Boa Esperenza " in the
mountains of Tejuca, ten miles from Rio, proved so interesting
to my friend Dr. C —- and myself, that we determined to make
a more distant excursion of the kind to this place, in the midst
of the Organ Mountains, fifty miles from the city. The route
to it passes near San Aliexo, and on our way we made an agreeable visit of three days to our friends there.
Constantia is the estate of Mr. Heath, an Englishman, which
has become a favorite resort of the citizens of the metropolis in
the summer season as a watering-place, for the enjoyment of pure
and invigorating air, and the luxury of fresh and wholesome diet
in the country. By previous arrangement, mules and a guide
were sent for us two days ago to San Aliexo by the proprietor;
and taking leave of Mr. and Mrs. MA, we were off for our
destination after an early breakfast this morning.  The day
was splendid in its coloring, and full of freshness. Our guide, a
bright, intelligent little negro of twelve, was all activity and
good-nature; and mounted on a mule scarcely larger than himself,
with a carpet-bag slung on each side of him in the manner of a
pair of saddle-bags, went on his way whistling and singing as if
he knew neither sorrow nor care.  Instead of leading us, however,
he rode behind in the fashion of a groom; but not so much for




402              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
appearance, as we soon discovered, as to give a poke with the
pointed end of his whip to one or the other of the animals ridden
by me and my friend, when they became disposed to lag in their
gait, or to start them forward by a sharp cut across their rumps
with its lash.
The first stage of eight miles northward was to Freischal, an
inland venda, or store, where the turnpike begins the ascent of
the " Sierra."  For that distance, the plain is very similar in
its general features to the country between'Piedade and San
Aliexo, before described. The mountain scenery to the west,
close upon the left, was, however, very fine; and was marked now,
after heavy rains, by numerous watercourses and cascades, which
foamed down from the heights above, in single shoots of hundreds
of feet. Most travellers from Rio make Freischal a stoppingplace for the first night; but the " Barriera," or toll gate, midway
up the ascent, four miles further, is a much more picturesque and
attractive spot; and we pushed on to this for luncheon, without
alighting at the other.  The road after passing Freischal winds
at first in gradual ascent along the broad bases of the mountains.
It is wide, smooth, and well graded; and paved at intervals for
long distances with large cubes of granite, like a Roman highway.
It was enlivened by troupe after troupe of mules passing in both
directions, with heavy loads of produce from the interior, and of
merchandise from the capital: each company of seven animals
being under charge of a troupiero, or muleteer, though frequently
moving by hundreds together, and sometimes crowding the road
thickly for a half mile in succession.  As thus seen en masse in
the distance, either in meeting or overtaking them, they present
an odd spectacle. The mules with heads bending to the ground
beneath their burdens, are themselves for the most part completely
hidden by the bulky loads they carry. The tips of their long ears,
bobbing up and down with the motion of their step; the cross
ends of the clumsy wooden saddle or frame, to which the panniers
or other burdens on either side are affixed-something like the
buck of a woodsawyer-sticking out above their shoulders; and




BARRIERA, ORGAN MOUNTAINS.                 403
the dried ox-hides surmounting the whole, to protect the articles
transported from the weather, flapping like wings up and down
in the irregular tread of the beasts, are alone seen: and to one
unacquainted with the sight, would present objects in natural
history difficult to be guessed at. There is a leading mule to
each troupe, whose bridle and head-stall are gayly ornamented with
tufts of scarlet and blue worsted, and often with showy plumes
of the same material, and alsoa strung with bells of varied sizes
and tones-the whole a matter of rivalry in the taste and vanity
of the respective troupieros. The leaders are so well trained as
to allow no one of their own troupe, under any circumstances, to
pass ahead of them  on the road; so that the muleteers have to
look out only for such as lag behind or stray by the wayside.
These men themselves are black, and white, and of every shade
of complexion; are of all ages, and in an endless variety of costume, as to the material and condition of old shirts and old jackets,
old trowsers and old drawers, old hats and various head-gearfrom the well clothed, to those almost in a state pzuris naturaibus.
The Barriera is as wild and romantic a spot as can be well
imagined. I recollect nothing on a public road surpassing it,
in these respects, unless it be the site of Alhama, in the sierra of
the Alpuxares.  It is a narrow ravine high upon the mountain's
side, above which the fantastic pinnacles called the "' Pipes of the
Organ," bristle thousands of feet.  From  these a mountain torrent, foaming and roaring over and around gigantic boulders of
granite, colies rushing down, and divided into two streams by an
islet over which the road crosses, plunges headlong into a gulf
below. In the midst of this islet, to which a bridge from either
side is thrown, a neat little chapel, surmounted by a cross, rises
upon the sight with pleasing effect, in contrast with the savage
wildness of every thing around. At a neat venda just beyond, to
which we had been directed by Mr. M -, we were served with
a luncheon of boiled eggs and bread and butter.  Our host was a
civil young Portuguese, and the neatly whitewashed walls of the




404              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
room in which we ate, were ornamented with a set of colored
engravings, illustrative of the fate of Inez de Castro in the hands
of Peter the Cruel.  For the first time in my rambles in Brazil,
I here saw a book in the hands of any one-it was a copy of the
" Complete Letter Writer " in Portuguese, which the keeper of
the shop was reading behind the counter when we went in.
We were now more than a thousand feet above the level of
the plain. For some time before reaching this point, a beautifully
shaped and luxuriantly-clothed mountain in front of us, had
particularly'attracted our attention.  It here stood directly
beside us on the right. Nothing of the kind can surpass the
beauty of its foliage in varied forms and tints of green-interspersed with masses of white and of yellow, of purple and of
scarlet.  The white in many instances is not a blossom, but the
leaves of the sloth tree-cecropia peltata.  The under sides of
these are covered with a white down; the leaves curl upward
under the hot rays of the sun, and give to the whole tree-top, amid
masses of verdure, a whiteness almost as pure, and more silvery,
than that of the snowball.  The yellow blossoms are chiefly
of the acacia; the purplh aid the scarlet those of climbersbignonias and fuschias. An American forest in October can
scarcely compare in gorgeousness with these gay woods, in the
seasons of their bloom.
From the Barriera the ascent becomes increasingly steep, and
the road is formed by zigzag cuts in the sides of the mountains,
and, at places, around their projecting shoulders. The angles at
the turns are very sharp, and the road rises in terrace above
terrace-at, some points edging upon precipitous ravines and deep
chasms, hundreds of feet in perpendicular descent. In these
sections, the long lines of mules, as seen both above and below,
struggling up or moving cautiously down, are particularly striking.
In several places the way was wet and miry, and many a poor
beast was down in the mud with his burden upon him, but lying
quietly and patiently, as if accustomed to such accidents, waiting
for the coming up of his troupiero to relieve him of his load, and




"c BOA VISTA."                   405
thus enable him to rise. As we mounted higher and higher, the
landscape became more and more extensive.  By degrees the
northern end of the Bay of Rio opened to view, followed rapidly
by the islands which cluster in it; the mountain-ranges of its
eastern coast; the Sugar Loaf, Raza and Round Islands in the
offing; the Corcovado, Gavia and peak of Tejuca-embracing a
panorama more than a hundred miles in circuit, in the midst of
which the imperial city, though forty miles distant, was distinctly
seen gleaming in the afternoon's sun. Such was the scene on
one side of us, while on the other the pikes of the Sierra close
at hand, rose in savage nakedness three thousand feet above our
heads.  The world boasts many pictures in nature, in which loveliness and sublimity are combined, but I doubt whether this
"' Boa Vista"'-" Fine View," of the Organ Mountain does not
rival any single combination of mountain, valley, and water, that
man ever beheld.  I can remember nothing in my own experience
equal in interest to this day's ride; unless it may be the travel
through the mountains of Granada, followed by the first view of
the "' Vega," with the city, the walls and towers of the Alhambra,
and the snow-covered heights of the Nevada above, all gloriously
lighted by the glowing hues of the setting sun.
Though uncertain of the length of time it would require to
reach our destination before nightfall, we lingered long in silent
admiration of the picture; and at last, found it difficult to make
up our minds to turn the point of a projecting rock marking the
highest elevation of the road, and which shuts it from view. From
this point the descent on the north commences. It is gradual, and
unmarked by any striking features, except the jagged peaks on
the left.  Tiick nmist and clouds soon enveloped these, and for a
time the way became comparatively tame and uninteresting.
H - Hall, the mountain home of Mr. --—, an English
merchant of Rio, whom we had been invited to visit, is situated
a short distance from the sierra.  We called upon the family for
a short time; but, anxious to reach Constantia, resisted their persuasions to remain over night, or at least to dinner, and hastened




406               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
on our way. At the end of six miles, we turned from. the
public road into a bridle-path leading through thick. woods, filled
with the music of birds.  Many of the trees overhanging us were
magnificent in size-monarchs of the primeval forest, stately and
venerable with the growth of centuries. One, whose branches
entirely overarched the road, at an elevation of more than a hundred feet, particularly excited our admiration.  Though its limbs
were gnarled and distorted, and in themselves leafless, they were
so fantastic in shape as well as gigantic in dimensions, and so
adorned and draped with parasites and creepers, and festoons of
gray moss, as to be a fit study for an artist.
At the end of three additional miles, we came suddenly upon
a fine field of luxuriant Indian corn enclosed by a hedge. Into
this a rustic gate led, which our guide threw open without dismounting, and uttered the announcement, apparently with as much
pleasure as it gave us to hear it, "L Esta Constantia I " " This
is Constantia! "  We were at the entrance of a little valley, two
miles in length by a half mile in width, encircled by high hills,
in the midst of which the buildings of the establishment of Mr.
Heath are clustered.  These consist of a principal house of two
stories, plastered and whitewashed, and having a steep shingled
roof; four cottages of one story in the same style, in front of this;
and various out-buildings and offices in the rear, with quarters
for the negroes-the whole having the general appearance of a
Swiss or German hamlet. The approach is by a well-made drive,
half a mile in length. Trees of natural growth have been left
here and there near this and in the adjoining grounds; giving to
the whole somewhat the aspect of a park.
Our host met us at the gate of an inner enclosure which
protects the gardens and shrubbery.  He is six feet and more in
height, of a portliness in full proportion, and frank, open-hearted
and cordial in manner.  He had been expecting us for two days,
and dinner was now a third time waiting our arrival.  We had
heard of his facetiousness, and that his anecdotes were irresistible; and had determined before meeting him, to maintain




THE ESTATE OF CONSTANTIA.                 407
a becoming dignity. Before the dinner was half through, however,
we found all our precaution vain; and under the rehearsal of some
of his personal adventures in Brazil, were obliged to give way to
fits of laughter, which made the tears run down our cheeks.
November 24th.-The estate of Constantia is two miles
square.  Its first owner was a Swiss, who gave it the name it
bears, with the intention of cultivating the grape on its hillsides, in the hope of producing a wine that should rival that of
Constantia, at the Cape of Good Hope.  But his expectations in
regard to the production of wine were disappointed; and an experiment with coffee succeeded no better.  The soil is too cold and
too poor to produce the best qualities of either; and Mr. Heath
purchased the whole property for a small sum. The house and
adjoining cottages are situated in the midst of flower-gardens,
which indicate by their growth any thing but poverty of soil; and
are fragrant with the perfume of the tuberose and heliotrope, cape
jessamine and white lily, and beautiful in moss-roses and camellias,
the most splendid carnations, beds of violets and mignonette, and
an endless variety of choice flowers.  The stems of the tuberose
exhibit eighteen inches of closely-clustered blossoms, and while
the white lily at home seldom produces, I believe, more than six
or seven flowers on one stock, I have here counted thirteen. The
vegetable gardens and fruit-yards present a like display of exuberant growth, in peas, beans, potatoes, artichokes, cabbages, beets,
cauliflowers, strawberries, raspberries, limes, lemons, peaches,
pears, apples, quinces and grapes. These in constant succession
bring a rich return to the proprietor from the market at Rio, to
which, distant as it is, troupes of mules carry cargoes as far as
Piedade, twice every week.
The work of the estate is performed by slaves, of whom,
including women and children, there are thirty-three on the
premises.  They are well-fed, well-clothed, and well-treated, and
seem to be contented and happy.  Their master is a humane and
kind man, and intends to give to all their freedom: in earnest
of which he has already manumitted several, who still continue




408              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
with him, and to whom he pays regular wages. The children
come round him at his call with' laughter and gambols, and
scramble playfully for the biscuit and cakes and the other niceties
which he carries with him from the dining-hall, for the purpose
of distributing among them. The gardens are under the care of
females exclusively: the superintendent, of the same sex, being
thoroughly skilled in the business. Every thing in that department is under her sole direction, from the turning over of the earth
for planting, to the gathering of the produce, and the arrangement of it in panniers for the market.
All hands are turned out for work at daybreak; are mustered
by name, and receive orders from their master at a window of his
room. A custom is observed here, and I am told in all wellregulated families, in Brazil, which, were it any thing more
than  an unmeaning form, would be interesting.  It is the
asking of a blessing from the master every morning and every
evening at the close of the day's work by all the slaves, of both
sexes and of every age. The full form of words is the following:
" I beseech your blessing, or grant me a blessing, in the name
of our Lord and Saviour Jesus Christ! " To which the master
replies, "' Jesus Christ bless you for ever! "  But it is the usage
to epitomize these expressions by the interchange of the shortest
possible abbreviations of them, and in words rather startling at
first to the ear uninformed of the designed object; the slaves
as they present themselves merely exclaiming, in all manner
of intonations of voice and in every mood of humor —" Jesus
Christ! " While the master, be he talking or laughing, eating or
drinking, or in whatever way employed, without any interruption
and seemingly without any regard to the import of the salutation,
as abruptly replies, " Siempre! " "Forever! "  The effect last
night was quite ludicrous, as fifteen or twenty men and women
came in from labor in the fields-probably weary and hungry and
impatient of any delay-and thrust their heads rapidly, one after
another, into the windows and doors of the verandah as we were
at the tea-table, with the above exclamation of two words only;




SELF-TENDING CORN-MILL.                 409
followed instantly by the single one from the master, much in the
manner of a feu dejoie.
No bell, nor similar means of summoning the outdoor servants is used; but the clear, trumpet-like voice of the master is
often heard far and wide, sending forth with a distinctness not to
be mistaken, the names of those needed.  While listening to
these stentorian calls, I have been struck with the euphony and
romance of many of the names, especially those of the femalesTheresa and Rosa, Justina and Juliana, Januaria and Theodora:
a list fit for the court calendar.
Within a few hundred yards of the houses on either side,
sharp hills rise to the height of several hundred feet, partially
covered on their sides and crowned on their tops with intermingled
woods and cliffs.  That on the south is marked in its whole
length by the broad channel of a watercourse; this, at times,
becomes a foaming cascade, compared with which, the artificial
shoot down the hill at Chatsworth, would appear but the plaything of a child. At present the quantity of water, though
flowing with great swiftness, is small, but furnishes an abundant supply for plunging-baths at the foot of the hill, and for
keeping a corn-mill near by, in operation day and night.  This
mill is a curiosity in one respect-it is self-tending; so far, at
least, as to cease working when the hopper becomes empty.  The
contrivance is very simple, and consists of a fixture at the bottom
of the hopper, which, acting through a spring, shuts off the water
from the wheel when the weight of the grain is removed.
The day after our arrival was one of rain, and we were
kept for the nmost part indoors.  This, however, we scarcely
regretted.  Indeed, we were more than content with confinement
in the midst of such verdure and bloom; and were satisfied for the
time, in the freshness, quietude, and rural repose of this secluded
spot, with the companionship, through the windows and from the
verandah, of the mules and cattle, the sheep and pigs, geese, ducks
and chickens, turkeys and guinea-fowl, with which the pasturegrounds and enclosures are filled; End not less with that of our
18R




410               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
intelligent host in his hours of leisure, in listening to his anecdotes and reminiscences of life in Brazil.  He has pre-eminently
the talent of making one forget that he is a stranger in his house
and a boarder at his table. You feel yourself rather to be the
welcome guest of friendship under the hospitable roof of the
lord of the manor, on whom you are conferring a personal favor
by your visit. His sporting stories are very amusing and somewhat marvellous.  There is no end to the rehearsal of the adventures of twenty years, in hunts after the leopard and ounce, the
tapir and deer, the peccary and other game of the forests. He
has, too, often been the guide and companion in this region, of the
most distinguished travellers who have visited Brazil in that
period.  He ascended the loftiest peaks of the Organ Mountains
with Dr. Gardiner; and gives details of privations and hairbreadth escapes in wildernesses before untracked by man, and
upon cliffs and precipices previously unsealed, not found in the
published records of the accomplished naturalist.
Yesterday and to-day the weather has been clear and fine, and
delightfully bracing and elastic: the mercury varying from 65~
to 70~ Fahrenheit. The elevation of Constantia above the bay
of Rio, is about 3000 feet. The highest point of the intervening
range of mountains is 6000.  The site of the houses does not
command a view of the Organ chain: but, from  the hill-side on
the north, it is distinctly seen.  We walked a short distance up
this last evening, just before nightfall, and found the entire range
magnificently clothed in the gorgeous colorings of the setting sun.
Though at the distance of fifteen miles in an air-line, the sight
was sublime.  The serrated part presents aspects on this side
altogether new; and more wild and fantastic, if possible, than
those on the other. I secured the outline of' a sketch, which,
when seen by you, may lead you to suppose me sporting with
your credulity.
We have rambled with delight at different times through the
little valley in the rear of the establishment. It is two miles in
length; is prettily watered by a winding stream and diversified by




DEPARTURE FROM  CONSTANTIA.               411
glade and dell-pastoral in its herds of cattle and flocks of sheep,
and vocal with the murmuring of water and the music of birds. I
do not include in the melody of these, however, the noisy chatter
of flocks of parroquets; though the beauty of their gay plumage,
added to the attractiveness of our walks, as, fluttering through
the air, it flashed upon the eye in the bright rays of the sun, like
masses of emeralds and gold. We made the attempt to ascend
some of the hills for more commanding points of view; but found,
even those which were without wood, and which appeared at a
distance to be almost as smooth as the turf of a lawn, to be altogether impracticable, from the thickness and rankness of the
growth of ferns with which they are covered. On a near ap.
proach, these were seen to rise far above our heads in impenetrable thickets.  We undertook to advance a short distance
among them; but, though Dr. C —-- is of no contemptible height
-six feet four inches-and not without proportionate strength
of muscle, we were very willing, at the end of a few minutes, to give over the effort. Progress can be made through thema
only with a sharp bramble-scythe, or a sickle in hand.  They
are so thick-set, and so even in height, that the negroes, Mr.
Heath tells us, in returning from labor on the hills, often make
short work of the descent by projecting themselves headforemost
for long distances, in steep places, over the compact surface of
their tops.
PETROPOLI$.
November 30th. -We bade adieu to Constantia on the morn:
ing of the 26th inst.  It was not yet sunrise when we took leave
of our host for the ride of forty miles through the mountains to
this place. We set off in the following order; first, a sumptermule, with our luggage and provender for the day, led by a negro
on foot; then a courier, the counterpart in age, size, and blackness, of our guide from San Aliexo, but a perfect dandy in comparison, in his costume-being dressed in a trimly-fitted jacket
and trowsers of new nankeen, a highly polished castor hat with




412               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
velvet band and broad rim, beneath which was worn, in Brazilian
style, a scarlet silk handkerchief, floating loosely down the shoulders behind; leggings of untanned leather, so wide at the top as
to serve for the reception and safe carriage of all kinds of small
packages and parcels, but terminating in bare feet well-spurred; the
Padre, as I am styled, and his mule came next; while the fleetsurgeon, last in position, but first in height and dignity, brought
up the rear. I was quite impressed with the appearance of
respectability in our departure, by the long line thus formed, till,
at the outer gate, it was suddenly shorn of its "proportions" by the
loss of our footman, who, tying the halter of the beast he was
leading, firmly into the long hair of the tail of our little courier's
mule, gave us his benediction and returned to the house.
The morning was beautiful, the air fresh as the breath of
June, and the light, fleecy clouds floating in the sky, tinted with
bright hues. Our way for some miles was a grass-edged and
dewy path through the woods. From these, unnumbered birds
poured forth their matin songs as if
" every sense and every pulse were joy."
There is an untiring charm in the woodland scenery here; the
growth is often so majestic and widespreading, and the foliage so
varied in form  and coloring.  We were gratified by the near
view, in two or three instances, of a fine, lofty, forest-tree, which
had at other times attracted our attention at a distance, by the
flowers of mingled pink and lilac with which it was thickly
studded.  These grow singly, and not in clusters; but the general effect, from the intermingling of strongly contrasted shades
of one color in the same flowers, is that of the apple blossom.
The lowest branches, however, were too lofty to allow a satisfactory examination of them. Among the most graceful of the
growth, which in some places fringed and overarched our way,
was the bamboo, shooting up in thick clusters to the height of
fifty, and even a hundred feet. The tree-ferns, too, were conspicuous, their umbrella-like tops giving them in the distance the




OLD TREES AND BLACK MONKEYS.               413
appearance of palm trees in miniature. Parasites and creepers
entangled the whole woods, while the former, mounting to the
tops of the loftiest branches, descended low again towards
the ground in gracefully sweeping pendants.  Surrounded by
such imagery and breathing such air, with the golden sun
flickering through the tree-tops upon our path, or gleaming
brightly over a glade on its side, I felt as buoyant in spirit as
when a boy I roved over the pine-covered hills of Otsego.
At one place the road merely skirted the woods and commanded a broad expanse of cleared land in a valley.  A striking
feature here, was the number of stately old trees which still studded the landscape. They were leafless and lifeless, however, and
so blanched from top to bottom as to seem whitewashed. Masses
of gray moss hanging in long pendants from the skeleton limbs,
gave to them, in contrast with the vigor of life by which they
were surrounded, a melancholy and funereal aspect. Just as we
were emerging from a thick wood on a side hill which overlooked
the trees below, my friend said to me, "All that is needed to
make our ride perfect in its kind, is a sight of some of the wild
animals of the country."  I replied, " Yes, any thing but a tiger
or a leopard." I had scarcely finished the sentence, when a succession of fierce and angry shrieks and screams burst forth beneath us; and looking in the'direction, we saw a whole tree-top
filled with black, long-tailed monkeys-they were in terrible commotion-a regular family quarrel.  Every branch of the tree
swayed to and fro, as they leaped about and swung themselves by
their tails from the end of one limb to that of another.  The
tread of our mules or the sound of our voices, however, suddenly put an end to their squabble, and in an instant, the whole
troop in affright disappeared in the thick wood.
At the end of a few miles we came to the turnpike by which
we had mounted the Sierra, and followed it northward a short
distance. It was crowded with troupes of mules, just setting off
from the ranchos at which they had passed the night.  The muleteers at one point, were engaged in replacing the burdens on




414              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
their animals.  Their occupation is far from being a sinecure.
Besides making the journey of hundreds of leagues on foot, they
have daily, and sometimes repeatedly each day, to load and unload
their beasts, and to readjust the many straps by which the freight
they transport is kept well-balanced, and secure from  damage.
The ordinary load of a mule is from six to eight "arobas" of
thirty-two pounds each, and the usual distance travelled in a day,
from twelve to sixteen miles.
The middle section of the journey was marked by a succession of pyramidal hills of bare granite, a thousand and more feet in
height, rising from the bosoms of the valleys which encircle their
bases like so many gigantic sugar-loaves. They appeared to be
utterly inaccessible, and presented cliffs on some of their sides
hundreds of feet in almost perpendicular descent. About noon,
surrounded by parroquets in flocks and other birds of gay plumage,
we gained the highest point of land on the route. It commanded sublime views of the mountains, both before and behind us;
and, among other objects, one of special interest to us personally
in the cabin of a free negro a short distance ahead, to which we
had been directed as a good place to refresh our animals and to
take our luncheon. We had accomplished fifteen miles of the
journey. The next fifteen were less interesting in every respect;
the general surface of the country was bare, and the mountains
sterile and naked. The glare of the sun was oppressive, and by
the time we had finished that additional distance, we began to be
fagged and weary. And this, you will ask, while still surrounded
by much that was strikingly novel and magnificent? I will refer
you for our vindication in the case, to any one who has been ten
hours in succession on muleback, riding up hill and down dale,
over a scarcely practicable mountain road. A mule is a very
nice animal for the ride of an hour over smooth ground, and one
that is full-blooded and wellbroken, very passable perhaps for the
ride of a day; but to be mounted from sunrise to sunset on
such beasts as we had, and to travel for a whole day over such
a road, are enough to make any one who has suffered the experi



ISOLATED PEAKS.                   415
ence groan afresh at the remembrance of it. I was not aware
before that there was such entire antagonism in the peculiar, short,
broken, and half-finished motions of the brute; causing one to
feel at the end of a day's journey very much as it might be supposed he would, if subjected in rapid succession for the same
length of time, to a constant simultaneous jerk of the shoulders,
twist of the hips, rap on the ankles, and thump in the back;
while the head has been kept incessantly bobbing up and down in
involuntary motion, like that of a Chinese image when once set
going. I know nothing like it in travel for weariness, at least
to the unpractised rider.
Late in the afternoon, we came upon the other great highway
from the metropolis to the mines in the far interior, and following
it, found the last ten miles, through the valley and beside the rippling waters of the Rio Piabanha, to be beautiful, not only in
natural scenery, but from  cultivation and long settlement.  I
must confess, however, that it required an after ride over it fully
to persuade us of this. At the time, we were too much done
over for high admiration of any thing; and were chiefly occupied
in straining our vision for some indications of being near our place
of rest. At length, the little guide, a short distance in advance
of us, reining in his mule at the top of an ascent in a gorge of
the hills, exclaimed to us in Portuguese-" Come see Petropolis! 1"
We doubted whether it might not be still miles distant; but
pushing on, were well pleased to catch sight of the town, pictured
in beauty before us, not a quarter of a mile off, at the bottom
of the hill. We were glad to see our little courier ride to the
door of the first house at the entrance of the place, as the hotel
which Mr. Heath had recommended to us as the best: had it
been the worst, scarcely any inducement could have led us a hundred yards further in search of any other. We were barely able
to dismount.
I never saw a place of which the common phrase "nestled
among hills," is so descriptive as Petropolis-in fact, it is doubly
4"nestled." First, by a half-dozen beautiful hills which rise




416              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
abruptly around it to the height of two or three hundred f et,
and then again by mountains which tower to an elevation of as
many thousands.  The central part of the town lies in a little
triangular basin, a half-mile in extent each way. From  this,
glens filled with cottages and pleasant residences, diverge in various directions. Each has a mountain-streamn running through it,
two of the principal of which, flowing from opposite directions,
meet in the centre of the place.  The surrounding country is
the private property of the Emperor, by the purchase of his
father Pedro I. It was the design of this sovereign to colonize it
at the time with Germans, but his abdication prevented the accomplishment of this. His son carried it out, by offering, ten years
ago, such inducements to immigrants in gratuities of land, that
the colony now numbers six thousand inhabitants, chiefly Germans. The Emperor early built a cottage for himself in the
centre of the village, with the view of making an occasional visit
to the place. The appearance of the yellow fever in Rio as an
epidemic, has since led to the construction of a palace on the
same site, which is to be a regular summer residence of the Imperial family; and Petropolis, from the sickliness of the city and
the example of the Emperor, has become the favorite resort, as a
watering-place, of the rich and fashionable.
Though it is not yet the " season," there are many visitors here
at present, among whom we were happy to meet our friend Lieut.
F     of the Congress, and a party of his English friends, residents of Rio. The whole place has the air of an enterprising,
thrifty, and prosperous new settlement at home, attributable to
the fact that instead of enervated and indolent Portuguese and
Brazilians, the inhabitants are industrious, managing, and hardworking Germans.  The walks and drives in the vicinity, for miles
in every direction, are varied and beautiful. It is only a mile
and a half from the " Alto do Sierra," the point at which the
great highway from Rio to the mining districts gains the height
of the chain; the view from which is thought by many to
outrival that of " Boa Vista" in the Organ Mountains: we have




GERMAN PROTESTANT WORSHIP.                417
enjoyed it under great advantages of light and shade, and thinl
if there is a difference, it is that the latter has more wildness and
sublimity of foreground, and the former more softness and beauty
in the general panorama. The road by which the passage of the
mountain is here made, is, in its grading and construction, an
exceedingly fine work, equal to most of those found in the similar passes of Europe. The first railroad projected in Brazil is
now in construction, from  the bay of Rio to the foot of the
mountains.  Its line, clearly traceable from the " Alto," is a new
and most hopeful feature in a landscape of this Empire. Among
the most interesting of our fellow-guests at the hotel here, are
the Chief Engineer, an Englishman —Mr. Bragge-and his family, and his assistant, Col. Golfredo, a Neapolitan exile.
The German population is about equally divided as to
religious creeds; about three thousand being Protestants and
three thousand Romanists.  On the Sabbath Dr. C(         and I
attended worship in the Protestant'. chapel. Places for Protestant
worship are prohibited the external architecture of a church building; and but for the assemblage of people at the door, we should not
have been able to distinguish the chapel from the row of houses
under one roof, among which it stands.  The interior is simple
and rude, and sufficient only to accommodate three or four hundred
worshippers. About that number were present. They are just
now without a pastor, and the schoolmaster of the town officiated.
The order of the services, including the reading of a sermon, was
that of the Lutheran Church.  The worshippers seemed serious
and devout; and though the whole was to us in an unknown
tongue, we endeavored-not in vain we trust-to make " melody
in our hearts," with their singing, and with their prayers to pray
" with the spirit and with the understanding."
18*




CHAPTER XXX.
BUENOS AYRES.
January 18th, 1853.-I am again in Buenos Ayres, and find
it for the fourth time within the two years past, in an entirely new
aspect. The contrast between its present condition and that in
which I first saw it, is peculiarly striking. Then, all that met
the eye gave evidence of peace, quietude, public order, safety,
and seeming prosperity. There was the bustle of active business
every where-at the crowded landing in boats and lighters plying
rapidly between the shipping and the shore, and in the thronged
thoroughfares in the trucks of the warehouses, and the ponderous
carts with their long lines of oxen from the interior. Pleasure,
too, was heard and seen on every side, in the gay chat of the promenaders on the sidewalks, the dashing by of equipages through
the streets, and in the laugh and gallop of riders, both male and
female, coursing along the shore.  Now, in place of peace, there
is war; in place of quietude and order, anarchy and confusion; in
place of safety, danger; and of seeming prosperity, apprehended
ruin! All business, foreign and domestic, is suspended; the mole
is like a place of the dead, the shops and'houses are all closed,
the street deserted; every native male inhabitant, between the
years of sixteen and sixty, under arms and on daily duty, and the
city begirt, within a dozen squares of its centre, by hostile troops
composed of its own people. By these, all intercourse between




CIVIL WAR IN BUENOS AYRES.               419
the city and the country is prevented, and all supplies of provision cut off; while they daily direct the murderous fire of their
muskets and cannon down the streets occupied by their neighbors,
relatives, and friends. And what, it will be asked, is the cause
of this state c0f things, and what the origin of the civil war?
Even the best informed on the subject here, whose feelings and
judgment have not been perverted by partisanship, reply by saying, " Who can tell? "  One thing is clear, the cause is not a
spirit of patriotism excited by oppression, or the origin a sense of
right under the pressure of wrong; nor are either traceable
to the conflicting policy of contending parties in regard to the public good: patriotism, right, and public good, are but empty words
here. The highest principle seems to be that of personal ambition,
in a few military aspirants, sustained by ignorant and mercenary followers; and the ruling motive the attainment of powerpower over "the receipt of customs," and power over the " Paper
Bank," with the opportunity of robbing the public, under the
name of office and the form of law.  This may be thought a harsh
and summary judgment in the case, but it is sustained by facts.
The history of public affairs at. Buenos Ayres for the last
six months may be briefly told.  After Urquiza had found it
necessary to dissolve the House of Representatives in the manner described during my last visit, and to assume the supreme
authority, he gave full evidence of the enlightened and publicspirited policy of the government he purposed to exercise.  His
first measure was the establishment of the public schools which
Rosas had suppressed; and the introduction into them of the
Bible as the text-book of morals and religion.  Another project
was the building of a breakwater and mole, for the protection of
ships and the benefit of the commerce of the port; and a third
the construction of a railroad into the interior. This policy, in
acts and purposes, begat confidence in him among capitalists and
the friends of progress; and high hopes were entertained of future
prosperity to the city and state. In September, however, he was
called from Buenos Ayres to the Congress appointed by the dif



420              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
erent States, to convene at the city of Santa F6 on the Parana,
for the formation of a general constitution and the consolidation
of the Republics into one government.  He left a small body
only of his own troops at Buenos Ayres, and embarked on his
mission. But the smoke of the steamer which carried him to his
destination had scarcely faded on the horizon before a revolution
was effected by his enemies, and a new government organized.
The first measure adopted by it, was a resolution to invade
Entre-Rios, the State of Urquiza.  For this a force was despatched both by water and by land: that by water was
summarily defeated and dispersed by the Entre-Rians, and that
marching by land, informed of the disaster, halted on the frontiers.  Money was of course necessary for the subsistence of the
troops on this expedition; and the new minister of war obtained
the issue of a large amount of paper money by the bank for this
purpose. He forwarded it to the disbursing officer, however, with
instructions to keep it in safety till he could arrive himself to
attend the distribution of it among the soldiers.  He left the
capital professedly on this errand, proceeded to the camp, obtained possession of the money, crossed the frontier, exchanged
the paper for gold, and emigrated beyond the jurisdiction
of the government of which he was a member! The soldiers,
disappointed in their pay, were conducted by their leaders to
Buenos Ayres, to obtain redress by a new issue from the bank;
but before they reached their destination a second revolution
took place.  The government which had enlisted and promised to pay them had been overturned; and that now in power
refused their demands. In consequence of this the troops invested the city; and hence the civil war-the parties being the
I insiders' and the' outsiders.' Those without are not in sufficient
force to take the city by assault; and those within have no
power by which to drive the besiegers from the suburbs. It is
said that Urquiza has furnished material aid to the outsiders,
and on the adjournment of the Congress of Santa F6 will join
them in person with his Entre-Rian troops.




SAVAGE ATROCITIES.                  421
One can scarcely give credit to the atrocities committed in
the guerillas, which almost daily take place-atrocities which
would disgrace a horde of savages. What think you of the execution of prisoners by stretching them  on the ground, making
their wrists and ankles fast with thongs of raw hide to four
horses faced in four different directions, *and then, by starting
these on the gallop, at a single spring, to tear them into quarters! Yet this has been done within a few days in public, and
in the presence of an officer, from whom, an eye-witness, Mr.
Lore received the account.  A few mornings since the coachman of Mrs. Z-, coming into the town from  a quinta or
country-house near the lines, which the family had been
obliged suddenly to abandon, perceiving two horsemen of the
outside party riding furiously down the street towards him,
stepped on one side to let them pass; and in doing so he observed
something attached to a rope dragging behind them. A second
look as they flew by, showed it to be the body of a man, in the
uniform of the national guard, who had been either just lassoed
or shot by them.  At a short distance these fellows met three or
four of their comrades; and drawing up to speak to one another,
the whole party amnused themselves by beating the head of the
dead victim with the butts of their carbines!
For an hour or two, almost every morning and every evening,
sharp-shooting is heard in various directions around the city. A
party of twenty or thirty outsiders, will, at such times, dash up
to the barricades at the ends of the streets, or a party of the
same number of insiders will rush out beyond them-without
any object in either case, but that of having a shot at each other
-and blaze away till tired of the sport;. fortunately, for the
most part, without much bloodshed or a loss of life. Occasionally, one or two on either side fall, or an innocent spectator or
passer-by receives a fatal shot. The people along the lines have
now become so used to this, as not to regard these skirmishes.
Last evening Commodore McKeever, Dr. C —  and I, went to
the quinta of Mr. K — to take tea.  This is in the midst of




422              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
the battle-ground between the lines. As we arrived, a sharp skir.
mish had just ended, during which musket-balls had struck the
house, and one, the drawing-room window, near which Mr. and
Mrs. K   - were sitting.  A few evenings ago we were at the
parade-ground, at the north end of the city, witnessing the evening drill.  A skirmish was at the time taking place about half a
mile distant, along the flat towards Palermo; and it was notable
to see the perfect coolness with which one and another-some
singly and others two and three in company-would catch up
their muskets and walk or lope towards the scene of the guerilla,
laughing and chatting as they arranged their arms for firing, as
if it were a shooting-match for goose or turkey they were about
to try a hand at, in place of the life of a fellow-being. The
whole contest is boyish in its mode of operation, as well as murderous in its motive and end. I am told by those who have witnessed it at the lines, that the manner in which the parties challenge each other to these skirmishes-their taunts and ribaldry,
shoutings and insults, are both amusing and ridiculous. Every
two or three days a sortie is made by a body of three or four
hundred from the inside, on a forage for grass. These generally
lead to the loss of lives on both sides. A few mornings ago, on
such an occasion, an officer from the inside performed quite a
feat of valor and presence of mind. He suddenly found himself
cut off from the party he was commanding by a mounted band,
who had awaited him in ambush.  The first intimation he had of
danger was in finding a lasso around his neck.  He freed himself expertly from this with his knife, just in time to receive one
of the attacking party, coming at full charge upon him with a
lance: this he not only parried, but wresting it from the grasp
of its owner, unhorsed and pierced him through with it. By this
time another lancer was upon him, but only to be runthrough
with the safte weapon. He then drew a revolver, with which he
brought a third to the ground; and by wounding a fourth in
another shot, effected a return to his own party.
jarc-ch 12th.-The chief interest in public affairs still centres




DAILY RESULTS OF GUERILLAS.               423
in the civil war. The presence of Commodore McKeever continues to be important and essential for the interest and safety
of American residents and their property. His flag is borne by
the " Jamestown," on board which a detachment of marines from
the Congress, under Lieut. Holmes, is quartered, in addition to
the guard belonging to that vessel.  The quarters of the Commodore and his suite are on shore.
No important change in the attitude of the conflicting parties
has occurred; though the arrival of a deputation appointed by
the general Congress of the Provinces at Santa Fe, with proposals of mediation on the part of Urquiza, has given rise to some
hope of an amicable adjustment of the difficulties. A corresponding deputation has been appointed by the government of the
city; an armistice proclaimed; and a conference on neutral
ground is now being held.
April 30th.-All overtures for reconciliation between the
belligerent parties have failed, and guerillas- are again taking
place, with the usual loss of blood and life to both parties. A
rigid blockade has been added to the investment of the city by
land; and the consequence is a limited supply of provisions
among the rich, and suffering and starvation among the poor.
The skirmishes of the last two or three mornings have been very
heavy; but such creatures of habit are we, that with cannon
roaring all around us, and constant volleys of musketry at the
distance of a mile or two only, bringing death with each discharge
to some fellow-mortal, we now hear the sounds for hours without
scarcely a thought of the fatal reslts. This morning as we sat
down to breakfast at Mr. H  -'s, two or three gentlemen descended from the flat roof of the house, where they had been
watching with a glass the progress of a guerilla.  They reported
that they had just seen many on both sides fall from their horses,
as the parties fired upon each other; but no one present seemed
to feel that it was a matter of more moment than the issue of
any common sporting-match.  The besiegers have no mortars or
bopbs; but frequently send cannon balls far into the city.  Two




424              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
mornings ago, one of these took off the head of a poor woman
a short distance only from the neighborhood in which we were,
just as she had risen from her bed and was combing her hair.  It
is thus that they scatter firebrands, arrows, and death, and say,
are we not in sport? My views of the reign of Rosas are much
modified by passing events, and the knowledge they give of the
people. In the various revolutions and counter-revolutions of
years which preceded his accession to power, thirty thousand of
them perished from bloodshed and violence at the hands of each
other; and more lives have been sacrificed here, in the same.manner, within the last three months, than during the whole of his
despotic rule.  His policy was to put summarily to death, those
whom he regarded as factionists and dangerous citizens, and thus,
by inspiring terror, to secure peace, order, and safety to the mass.
How far was he in error?
Commodore McKeever, after the detention here of four months
by the exigency of public affairs, during which he has rendered
most important public service, is obliged by duty elsewhere, to leave
the further protection of our countrymen and their interests to
the commander of the " Jamestown;" and will bid adieu tomorrow to Buenos Ayres for the last time. We must therefore
let the curtain drop on the tragedy in performanc.e here; and be
content to learn its uncertain issues in our own distant and
blessed land. The last mail-packet brought to us the welcome
intelligence that the Congress would return to the United States
without waiting the arrival of' a relief;' and on taking our anchors
at Montevideo in a few days we shall be HOMEWARD BOUND!




POSTSCRIPT.
THIS volume has already been enlarged beyond the intended
number of pages. In closing it, I would very briefly state that the
experiment in naval discipline, with which the cruise of the Congress was commenced, previously to the abolition of the lash by
law, was carried out with marked and satisfactory success.
This is mainly to be attributed to the unwearied efforts, and
the indefatigable devotion to duty, of the officers most interested-equally from  motives of philanthropy towards the
sailor, and a jealous regard for the honor of the navy-in the
result.  This is especially true, in regard to Mr. Turner the first
lieutenant. During the last eighteen months of the cruise, good
order, activity in duty, quickness and skill in the military exercises
and naval evolutions of a man-of-war, and a general spirit of
contentment were characteristic of the crew, in an extraordinary
degree. The frigate entered the port of New York under the
happiest auspices; and the conduct of the men at the time the
manner in which they left her, and their deportment afterwards, were such as to challenge the admiration of those most
familiar with such scenes.  Intelligence which from time to time
has since reached me, in regard to individuals of their number,
has been most gratifying; while there has not been wanting
proof, in the cases of some, of the highest results of the preaching
of the Gospel, in a life of professed and consistent piety.
In regard to the countries to which so much of the preceding




426               BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
record refers, little of material importance has occurred since it
was closed.  Thirteen of the States of the Plata, bordering on
the rivers Parana and Paraguay and their tributaries, have become consolidated under a constitutional government, to the
Presidency of which General Urquiza is elevated.  Buenos
Ayres has pertinaciously refused to' enter into this union; and
left to pursue her own course, has fallen into a state of anarchy,
to which there appears at present to be little prospect of a speedy
termination. The same is the case with the Republic of Uraguay.
The condition and prospects of the Empire of Brazil are in
wide contrast with these republics of the South. Political quietude
and order pervade her widespread dominions, and a striking
proof is presented by the stability of her government and her
consequent prosperity, of the advantage she possesses in a wellbalanced constitutional monarchy. Till the half-civilized people
of South America become more enlightened, intellectually and
morally, and better instructed in the true principles and right
exercise of republicanism, a fixed and hereditary Executive in
government is the only safeguard against the evils to which the
struggles, among ambitious and unscrupulous military aspirants,
constantly give rise.
The few years past have witnessed extraordinary progress in
the material wealth, prosperity, and power of this Empire; a
progress attributable to the stability of her government; to the
necessities of commerce; and to the advancing and controlling
civilization of the times. The greatly increased demand for her
principal staple, coffee, as well as for many of her other important products-India-rubber, sugar, cotton, tobacco, dye-woods,
and minerals-has led to a wise, liberal, and widespread system
of internal improvements and inland andocean steam navigation,
for the development of the varied and vast physical resources
of the empire.  Don Pedro II. has imbibed and obeyed the spirit
of the times as fully, during the few years of his actual reign, and
advanced the material and social prosperity of his country as
safely and rapidly, as any ruler living.




POSTSCRIPT.                    427
The importance to the United States of the trade of Brazil
will hardly be credited by those not particularly informed on the*
subject. We derive from that empire a large number of articles
of commerce indispensable to us; and send to it many of the
most staple and valuable products of our agriculture and manufactures.  We receive from Brazil our largest supply of coffee,
India-rubber, hides, cocoa for chocolate, sarsaparilla, and other
articles; and in exchange supply her with nearly all her breadstuffs-with beef, pork, lard, and butter; with corn, cotton
fabrics, the implements of agriculture and the arts, with machinery,
and the manufactures of iron and wood.  This trade amounts to
nearly nineteen millions of dollars annually; the balance against
the United States being six millions paid in cash. It is believed
by those best informed on the subject, that the establishment
of a regular line of mail steamers to Brazil, with a suitable
subsidy from the government for postal service, would be the
means of doubling the amount of trade in the course of five years;
and by the increased demand for our productions arising from
the facility of communication and correspondence, would equalize
the exchange, if not turn the balance in our favor. It is a
reproach to us, that for the want of direct communication by
steam, our correspondence, both commercial and diplomatic, with
Eastern South America, is carried by English mail steamers,
by the way of England, a distance of near eight thousand miles.
From the same cause the disbursements of our government to
its public agents there, are made only at a heavy percentage.
To place the salary of nine thousand dollars in the hands of a
charge d'affaires at Rio, costs the government at home usually
one thousand dollars, and the naval disbursements on that station
are made at a corresponding loss.
Aware of the vast public and commercial interests to us
as a nation of this matter, it is with great satisfaction I have
learned that an association of capitalists of the city of New
York, bearing the name of the "North and South American
Steamship Company," has brought the subject before Congress




428              BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
in a memorial for aid, in consideration of mail service, in the
establishment of a line of steamers between New York and Para.
It is proposed to intersect the several European lines running to
Brazil at the Island of St. Thomas, and to form a junction at
Para, with the Brazilian mail and passage steamers which now
regularly coast the empire a distance of four thousand miles, from
the mouth of the Amazon to the Rio La Plata. Dr. Rainey,
one of the gentlemen engaged in this enterprise, has by personal
research informed himself fully of the practicability, under the
suitable patronage of the government, of making this initiatory
line of steam communication with Brazil and with the Plata,
through the intervention of the Imperial lines, of incalculable
value to the commerce and general interest of the United
States.  The committee to whom  the memorial was referred,
have reported unanimously in favor of granting the subsidy
solicited; and there is reason to hope, that by the early action of
Congress on the report, an abiding channel of friendship, commerce, and reciprocal good, will be opened directly between the
United States and BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.
THE END.




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* Wolfert's Roost.




4                    G. P. Putna m &  Co.'s Publications.
WASHINGTON IRVINGi'S WORS —continued.
song may he live to enjoy the happy pre-eminence which he so gracefully adorns." —New York
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G. P. Puttnamd & Co,'s Publications.                      5
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ASTORIA; OR, ANECDOTES OF AN ENTERPRISE BEYOND THE ROCKY
MOUNTAINS. BY WASHINGTON IRVING. With a Map. 2 vols,
complete in 1 vol., E2mo., $1 50.
~** This volume contains a narrative of the exciting adventures connected with the first exploration of the wilderEess of Oregon, and the first
settlements on the Pacific.




G. P. -Putnam  &  Co.'s Publications,                         7
WASHINGTON IRVINGSs WORKs-continued.
THE CRAYON MISCELLANY.
*** This volume comprises the TouR ON THE PRAIPrEs,-and the VISITS
TO AIRBOTSFOI1D and NEWSTEAD ABBEY.  12mo., cloth, $1 25.
THE ADVENTURES OF CAPT. BONNEVILLE IN THE ROCKIY
MOUNTAINS AND  THE FAR  WEST.  Digested  from  his Journal,
and illustrated from various other Sources. Author's revised
edition, complete in 1 vol.  With a Map.   $1 25.
OLIVER GOLDSMITH: A BIOGRAPHY.  Complete in I vol.
12mo., $1 25.
-  The Same, gilt ext., with illustrations, $2; half calf, $2 50;
mor. ext., $3 50.
A  few  copies remain of the large edition, 8vo., cloth, $2 50; gilt extra,
$3; mor. ext., o5.
MAHOMET AND HIS SUCCESSORS. Complete in 2 vols
12mo., $2 50.
The Same, half calf, $4.
"The aim of the writer has been to digest into an easy, perspicuous, and flowing narrative,
the admitted facts concerning Mahomat, together with such legends and traditions as have been
wrought into the whole system of oriental literature. and at the same time to give such a summary of his faith as might be sufficient for the general reader."-Ettractfroom Preface.
"Those who read the life of Mahomet will find in the followving pages most of their old acquaintances again engaged, but is a vastly grander field of action, leading armies, subjugating
emnpires, and dictating from the palaces and thrones of deposed monarchs."-East. Preface to' l1fahoZmet's ISseccessors."
CHRONICLE OF THE CONQUEST OF GRENADA. From
the MSS. of FRAY  ANTONIO AGAPIDA.   12mo., cloth, $1 25.
"He has availed himself of all the picturesque and animating movements of this romantic
era. * * * * The fictitious and romantic dress of the work has enabled him to make it the
medium of reflecting more vividly the floating opinions and chimerical fancies of the age, while
he has illuminated the picture with the dramatic brilliancy of coloring denied to sober history."
— PRIESCOTT'S Ferdinao'ed and Isabella.
THE ALHABIBRA. 12mo., $1 25.
The  Same, with  Darley's Illustrations, gilt ext., $2; half
calf, $2 50; morocco extra, $3 50.




8                   G. P. Putnatm n        Co's Publications.
A Great )Ncftiona1 Mork 7for every Ameitcan.
THE ILLUSTRAT1RE  EDITION OF
IRVING'S LIFE OF WASHINGTON.
G. P. PUTNAM  & Co. are now  publishing  a new  edition  of this great
work, in semi-monthly parts, price 25 cents each.  Each volume will consist of 14 Parts, handsomely printed  in  Imperial 8vo.  The whole work
wrill be illustrated by about 80 superior Engravings on steel, including Portraits and original HIistorical Designs, by eminei nt Artists, with numerous
Woodcuts and Maps.  Each Part will contain at least 32 pages and one
Engraving on Steel: every other part -will have two Steel Plates.
TERMS OF PUBLICATION:
1. Each semni-monthly Part, containing as above specified, 25 cents, payable on delivery.
2. All subscribers must engage to take the entire work.
8. The second and subsequent volumes will be issued in double parts-and the whole will be
published at regular intervals of two weeks.
Azmonig te Illustrations albeady ezygraved or nearly conmpleted, ar'e the follozine:PORTRAITS.
GEN. SCHUYLER,               GerN. LA FAYETTTE,           GEORGE CLINTON,
GEN. PUTNArI,                GEN. COUNT PULASKII,         RoEERT RMT ORRIS,
GEN. ARNOLD,                 GEN. LInCOLn,                GEN. STARK,
GEN. GREENE,                 GEN. MERCER,                 GEEN. I-IA3IILTON,
GEN. WARD,                   GEN. BJuRGOeYNE,             GEEx. GATES,
GEN. KNox,                   GEN. CIIAS. LEE,             G E-. GLOViR,
GEN. MONTGOMaERY,            GEN. IHEYNRY LEE,            GEN. SIR W:M. HIOWE,
GEN. ST. CLAIR,              COL. MOULTRIE,               GEN. SIR HENRY CLINTON,
GEN. LORD STIRLING,          COL. W. AVAsnIINGTON,         GEN. LORD CORNVWALLIS.
GEN. BARON STEUBEN,           GEb  AVTAYNE,
WVAsTINGoToN. fl'Om the Picture by Pecale.         WASIurNGTONs, from  s'os??c's8 Statue.
WXASINGTON, from the Picture by T7hi7s2slsfli.     VWASIsrNTON, ftroml Original Profile.
aWASIINGTON, from-1 the Pictu'e by lVestltselee?.  Mrs. WXSiINGCTON. (early Portrait.)
WASIIINTON, firmn the Pictulre by SsctUart.        MrIs. WVsImT ruNGTON, frsmn Stursst.
WASIIINGTON, frOIs1 /Joudosn'S Bnust.              MISs PIIILLIPBE, fri'om Original Pictture.
WASIIINGTON from Ieiodon's Statue.
ILLUSTRATIOtNS  ON  STEEL.
HIISTORICAL SCENES, C,IIIEFLY PoaR   ORIGINAL DESIGNS.
Site of Washinton's Birth-Place.  Frt Ticonsderoga.           Announcement of Indepen[Molnt Vernon (Thlree Views.)    Lak-e George.                    dence.
Warshintto n   as  a Surveyol.   Fortifications at Iest Point   Battle (f Tirenton.'Washington at Fort Necessity.       in 17Si), (from a contern-   lattle of Germalntown.
Washington    S urveying  the Dis-   po(rary drawing.)          lattle of Moinounth.
matl.waImp.                 Waslhinaton Qselling  a Riot.   Bra(l(lock's -nattle Field.
Washiniaton at Winchester.       View of New Yolrk 1776.        Wasligton  go,iolg to ConWasihin-gton's Field Sports.     Bostosn  frol o     1)orchester   gress.
Foltifying, Bunker's Hill.          tleihlits in 1776. c&C. Ac. 
"; This must always remniin, pas enzieszce, unEll history of the Fathler of his country.s"
P/ilsadelsss.c Bsllletiis.
N. 3. It is intended that the Illustrations in this edition shall be worthy of the subject and of the author.  The best artists have been engaged
to make original drawings,  and the most eminent enlrav ers are seclred.
No expense will be spared to mlake ti        e tIe erravis creditablLe tos Amniccan
art, and fully satisfactory to amateaurs of atieious  taste.
This edition is published excliusively for seubscribers. Now is the time to subscribe. Price
25 cents ier Part. The Parts camn be dlelivered every w-eek, or every fortnight, acs desired: and
this splendid work is thus placed witfdii  the rencet of tse people act large.




G. P. Putnarn    &  Go.'s Publications.                            9
WASIINGTON  IRVING'S WORKS-COqe1titued.
TEE LIFE OF GEORGE WASHINGTON. By WASHINGTON
IRVIMG.    Of the  Octavo  Edition,  (published  by  subscription
only), Three volumes are now ready, each containing about 500
pages, elegantly printed with new pica type, on fine paper.
Subscription price per vol. in cloth, $2; sheep extra, $2 50;
half calf extra, $3 25; calf extra, $4.
The first volume contains a fine portrait fiom  an  original picture by
Wertmiiller (now  first engraved), and three maps and plans.
The second volume contains PEALE'S portrait of Washington  (the earliest), at the age of 40, with maps and plans.
The  third  volume  contains an  engraving  from   HOUDON's   statue  of
Washington at Richmond, and a splendid erngraving carefully copied from
STUART'S original picture of Washington, in the Boston Athenaeum.
LIFE OF WASHINGTON. Duodecimo Edition. 3 vols. published, uniform   with  his  other  worlks, with   Portrait.   Price
$1 50 per vol.
"A work which will take its place in American households side by side with the Bible.'"E"opress.
" It was peculiarly fitting that the brightest nanme in history should have put in requisition,
for its conlmlemoration, one of the most gifted and accomplished sons of literature.  Washington
Irving,  whose literary fame scarcely knows a bound, has, for many years, been occupied upon
this work, the first volume of which we have now the pleasure to announce. It has been elaborated with great patience and care; and is not moe eremarkable for its exquisite graco and
beauty of style, than for the richness of its biographical and historical details. The present
volume relates to that portion of his life whllich preceded the period of the Itevolution. irand during
which he may be considered as having  had hlis trainIng for that great enterprise which at once
rendered his name immortal, and msarked a new and glorious ep),ch in the history of the race.
It contains much that has not fosund its way into any previous life of Washinmgton;.nd even if it
had been nothing more than the old material, moulded over by that graceful mind that lends
enchantment to every thing it touches, it would still have been justly regarded as a bright gem
in our literature."-Ptriele-ta  Recorder.
" Before making any extracts fromn the work, we cannot but express our satisfaction at its
final completion.  Its publication will forin an important epoch in Amnerican literature   The
life-long labors of its illustrious author could not have been crowned with a tmore appropriate termillation.  His name will hencefoirth be indissolubly conlnected with that of Washington, not
only by his baptismal appellation, but by the noble monumnent which he has reared to his
memory. It was a befitting task that the writer who has left such a brilliant impress of his
genius on the nascent literature of his country-whose fame is devoutly cherished in the hearts
of the American people-held in equally affectionate remembrance in the rude cabins of the frontier, the halls of universities, and the saloons of fashionable life-whose successes in the varied
walks of classical composition have done as much to illustrate the character of America ir the
eye of the world as the eloquence of her senators or her prowess in arms-should create a permanent memorial of Washinlgton in a style worthy the digsnity of the subject and the reputation
of the author." -Gazette, Retoding, Pa.
It is evident that the author has not only carefully investigated a vast amount of original




10                      G. P. P naim  &  C'o.'s Publiccitions.
WASHINGTOn IRING's WI OIKs- conit'inztcd.
materials to which few persons could have had access, but that he also has devoted many years to
a most congenial subject. In justice to the publishers we may state, that tile work has been got
up in a style well worthy of its subject." —Eenaisz  Bitltetine, P/h iln.
"The time for representing Washingtoll as a statue or a man of iron has gone by. IIe begins
to be known as a mann of irnmense passion, of the tenderest as well as strongest family affections,
and of the most unaffected domesticity of taste... Ail that patient and comprehensive research can do, M1r. Irvinlg has done." — C/ristias. Ioqtirer.
"This mnay be said to be the only life of Washington ever written. Irving has thrown around
his story tile araces of his brilliant style, and imparted a variety to his pages which never suffers
the interest of his readers to flag. Ilis wvork is a real, solid acquisition to the living literature of
the ace, and will take its place among those favored fewx which will go down to posterity."-Pittsbulaiph Gazette.
"This is the life of Washington that will be read, others hereafter will only be referred to."V. Y. Colrjiser &d Enqz irer.
" Every sentence is stallped with the individuality of genius."-Ballout's Pictorial.
" It is, in short, a model biography, and will meet with a hearty welcome from all classes.' —
N; E. Fasmzesr.
flub  Baua-'e&rien   1   7 R'aVARI- 95 eriitmE
WOLFERT'S ROOST, AND OT-IER PAPERS. Now first collected.
By WASHINGTON IRVING.  12mo., $1 25; gilt extra, M1 75.
"' Washiniton Trving, dear, kind-hearted, clever lWashington Irving,' the idol of my youth,
thle darling of miy manhood,' lie, wvlo under Inany nanmes  Geofrey Crayton, Diedrich Klnickerbocker, c.-lihas' tickled the town,' as Byron said of Moore, is once irolre before us; and his new
volinme,'I Wolfert's itoost,' and other papers, bear evidence sof all that sweetness of mind and
versatility of talent which have claptivated thousanlds of readers."-Losndon GiL]roiole.
" in leavinig this attrac;ive volumame, we cordially recominiend it to the lovers of pure, elevated,
and warm-hearted literature. To the literami it commenlds itself for the completeness, closeness,
and elegance of its style." —1. Y. DaCily/ T7'izes.
"There is as much elegance of diction, as graceful a. description of natlral scenery, as grotesque an earnestness in (liablerie, and as quliet but as telling a satiric lumor, as wiier Geofitey
Crayon first came before the wvorld nearly forty years ago." —Loin/doZ   Sp)eCtator.
"It would not be easy to overpraise this volumie."-Lmo donl  Athetceuaa.
THE CRAYON READING BOOK, Comprising Selections from
the various writinls of Washington Irving, for the use of Schools.
12mo., half bound, 75 cents.
"A book to mlake the young observant and kind-heartod."-Lit. Wfioald.
The selectionl; are adlmirable imodels of a luci(l, chaste, and elegaiit style. We are grateful, by
means of this volumle, to be able to( place in tile hlands of our young readers the gems of the most
popular and gifted author of the day." —Pr''one te Hlfisses,edcg/ic/.
TALES OF THE HUDSON: Comprising Rip Van Winkle-Legend of Sleepy Hollow-Guests from  Gibbet Island-Dolph
Heyliger-Wolfert Webber- Peter Stuyvesant's Voyage up the
1Hiudson, &c. 16mo., plates, price 50 cents.
"One of the most delightful worlks in the lantiuage." —Boston Tr/avnscript.
" Summer tourists on the Hudson can find no pleasanter comlpanion than this.
Thle man is to be envied who, with a summer day before imn, embarks on otme of the floating
palaces of the river, with this choice volume for his colmpanion, as lie is borne along the ample
breadth of the Tappan  Sea, by the walls of the Pldisades, or threads the grand defiles of the IHigllands, hlie will be put in a imood for the most exquisite enljoyment of book and landsclape, as he
glances from one to the other."-Lit. tVorld.




G. P. Putnam  &  Co),'s Publications.                     11
FENIMOfRE COOPER.
THE NOVELS AND TALES.OF J. FENIMORE COOPER.
New  Library Edition, complete.
_Enbracing,
LAST OF TIIE iMOIHICANS,                     HOMEWARD BOUND,
PIONEERS,                                    THE CIIAIN-BEARER,
DEERSLAYER,                                  AFLOAT AND ASHORE,
PATI-FINDER,                                 MIIES WV ALLINGFORD7
PRAIRIE,                                     H-IOIE AS FOUND,
THE OAK OPENINGS,                            THE CRATER,
WEPT OF WISH-TON-WISH~                       TWO  ADMIRALS,
NED MYERS,                                   HEADSMAN,
SPY,                                         SATANSTOE,
REDSKINS,                                    HEIDENMAIJER,
PILOT,                                       WATER WITCH,
MERCEDES OF CASTILE,                         JACK TIER,
WING AND WING,                               RED ROVER,
MONIKINS,                                    TIIE SEA LIONS,
LIONEL LINCOLN,                              WYANDOTTE,
BRAVO,                                       TRAVELLING BACHELOR,
PRECAUTION,                                  WAYS OF THE HouR.
Complete in 34 vols. 12mo., neatly bound in embossed muslin, $34; sheep,
library style, marble edges, $37 50; half roan,,28; half calf, $50;
half Turkey, $50; half calf; gilt backs, $55; half calf antique, $55.
*** Each of the above may be hlad separately price $1 in cloth.
"The enduring monuments of Fenimnore Cooper are his workls. While the love of country
continues to prevail, his memory will exist in thle hearts of thle people. * *  * So truly patriotic and American throughout, they should find a place in every American's library."-DANIEL
WEBSTER.' No one has succeeded like Cooper in the portraituree of American character, or has given such
glowvirg and trutlhful pictures of Alnerican sconery." —W. II. PRESCOTT.
" lie wrote for mankind at large; hence it is that he has earned a fame wider than any author
of modern tines. The creations of his genius shall survive through centuries to come, and only
perish wvith our langunage."-W. C. BRYANT.: Hlis surpassing ability has made his own name, and the names of the creations of his fancy,'household words' throughout    the civilized world." —GEo. BANCPLOFT.'The wvorks of our great novelist have adorned anld elevated our literature." —EDW. EVERETT.
" Cooper emphatically belongs to the nation, IHe has left a space in our literature which will
not easily be supplied."-WASIIINGsTON IRVING.
THE LEATHEP-STOCKING TALES. Comprising LAST OF THmE MOHICANS, PIONEERS, DEERSLAYER, PIATHFINDER, PRAIRIE.  In  uniform
binding, containing extra title-pages, printed in red and black, on
superior paper, in five elegant volumes.  Neatly bound in embossed
cloth, $5; in half Turkey or half calf, $7 50.
THE  SEA  TALES.  Comprising THE PILOT, TIE RED  ROVER, THE Two
ADMIRALS, WING  AND  WING, WATER WITCII.   Uniform  with  the
Leather-Stocking Series, containing extra title-pages, printed in red
and black, on superior paper, in five elegant volumes.  Neatly bound
in embossed cloth, $5; in half Turkey or half calf, $7 50.




12               G. P. Pt. Pzlam   Co.:s Publications.
A NEW  LIBRARY EDITION OF COOPER'S CHOICE WORKS.
CHOICE WORKS OF J. FENIAMORE COOPER,
In Twenty Duodecimo Volumes, extra size.
In newly stereotyping this Edition, extraordinary pains have been
taken to produce a most perfect specimen of typography, and the most
scrupulous care has been observed in the reproduction of the text, which
has the Author's latest additions and corrections, besides his new Introductions, Notes, &c.
*** The Works of CooPER, while their illustrious author was alive,
were acknowledged, in other countries, to be the finest examples of American genius. and the noblest as well as the truest exhibitions of American
intellect and feeling.  At home, personal and partisan influences prevented
the universal recognition of their extraordinary and peculiar merits.  But
all prejudices and asperities being buried in the grave, the people have dispassionately examined the claims of " our great national novelist," and their
applause is awarded in acclamations.  Never, in the proudest day of his
life, was he so popular.  Not a month has passed since the close of his
splendid career, in which the general demand for his writings has not increased; and now, through all the Union it is as well understood that the
works of Cooper should constitute a portion of the Family Library, as in
Spain, that every reader should possess Cervantes; or in Germany, that
Goethe, or in England, that Shakspeare, should be familiar in every cultivated household. Although much of this popularity is undoubtedly owing
to their decided and intelligent nationality; yet, perhaps as much results
from  the just conviction that no other author, so eminent in his department, has ever before been so uniformly pure in morals and elevated in
sentimnent.  No other body of romance, in any language, is so healthful and
invigorating.  This collection comprises1. THE SPY,             8. LIONEL LINCOLN,    14. HOMEWARD BOUND,
2. THE DEEIRSLAYERII,  9. RED ROVER,            15. HOMIE AS FOUND,
3. LAST OF THE MIOHI- I 10. THE WEPT OF TWISH- 16. THE TWO ADMIRALS,
CANS,                    TON-WVISH,         17. WING AND WVING
4. THE PATHFINDER,  11. THE WATER-WITCH, 18.;WYANDOTTE,
5. THEi PIONEERS,      12. THE BRAVO,           19 JACK TIER,
6. THE PRAIRIE         13. THE HE.ADS.AN.    20. THE SEA LIONS.
7. THE PILOT,
2VN B. This'Edlition will only be fernxished in utniform, Complete Sets; in no;case:will the
Sets be brokieL.
The above twenty volumes, comprising the FINE EDITION OF COOPER'S
CnoicE WNORKS, are bound with great care, in a superior manner, after
patterns of elegance and neatness. in the following popular and attractive
styles:
Embossed muslin, the see, 20 volumes, $25 00 Full Calf,.... $50 0`heep. best Library style, marble edge, 80 00  Fetll Calf. extra, gilt backs,.    54 00
lalf Tarkey,.... 40 00I Full Calf, antique,... 54 00
Half Calf,..   40 00 Full Turkey, gilt tops,..    56 00
Half Calf, full gilt backis,. 44 00 Super Calf, extra. gilt edges,  60 00
Half Calf, antique,...    44 00 Super Turkey, extra, gilt edges,.    60 00




G. P. Putnam & Co.'s Publications.                   13
TEIEODORE IRVING.
TIHE CONQUEST OF FLORIDA BY DE SOTO. By Prof.
THEODORE IRVING.  Author's Revised Edition.  (Uniform  with
the Collective Edition of Washington Irving's Works.)  12mo.,
cloth, with a Map, $1 25.
"This is an important chapter in the early history of this country. The subject, too, is one of
considerable interest to the general reader. Besides the historical value which the work possesses, it contains portions of as exciting interest as any romantic fiction." —(amnbridge Chrosn.
*   This volume is eminently worthy of a place in every good library
by thle side of Prescott's Mliexico and Peru.  The adventures of De Soto
and his followers in the regions now known as Florida, Alabamna, Louisiana, &c.-the discovery of thle Mississil)pi, under whose waters the chivalric lea(der found his grave-and the vatrious romnantic incidents connected
with the expedition, render it a highly entertaining chapter of early American history, which no other work supplies.
H1O0W. J. P. EN1NEDY'S WRIT-ThNS, Viz.:
SWALLOW  BARN, (illustrated.)  HEfosE-SHoE iRoBINSoN, (with Vignettes.):ROB OF THE BOWL, (with portrait on steel.)  Complete
in 3 vols. 121uo., cloth, $4; half calf extra, $7 50.
* * These wor'ks have taken the same relative place in American literature as that occupied by the hlistorical fictions of Scott in the literature of
England, and they worthily fill a place by the side of Irving and Cooper.
SWALLOW BARN: A SOJOURN IN THE OLD DOMiNION. With
Illustrations by STMTHERa.  Large 12mo., cloth, $1 50.
"'We have always reg-arded Swallow Barn as one of the very highest efforts of American
Inind. It is exquisi-ely written, and the scenes are vividly described. Its features of Virginia
life and manners are the best ever draawn. This is emineintly a splendid edition."-Loszisv. Jofze'.
HORSE-SHOE ROBINSON: A TALE OF THE TORY ASCENDENCY.  Author's Revised Edition.   Complete in 1 vol. large
12mo., $1 50.'** This -work is founded on actual facts connected with the annals of
Virginia and South Car-olina.  The events have been thus chronicled, " because they intrinsically possess interest " for the lovers of adventure, and
because " they serve to illustrate the temper and character of the war of
our Revolution," and to bring out more vividly than political history can
do, its varied, romantic, and picturesque features.  The volume comprises
adventures of great interest, yet in strict accordance with historic truth.
ROB  OF  THE  BOWL.  12mo., with fine portraits, $1 25.
K**  A romance illustrative of the early colonial history of Marlyland
under the Calverts.




14                     G. P. Putnam  &d  Co.: a-s ublications.
BAYARD TAYLOR.
TRAVELS IN VARIOUS PARTS OF TIHE WORLD. By
BAYARD  TAYLOR.   With  plates, 5  vols. 12mo., cloth, $6  50;
half calf, $12 50; calf extra, $] 5.
THE TRAVELS AND POEMS. New edition, complete in 6
vols. 12mo., uniformly bound in cloth, $8; half calf, $15;  calf
extra, $18.
Separate Vohlues.
VIEWS AFOOT; OR, EUROPE SEEN WITH KNAPSACK AND STAFF.
By BAYARD TAYLOR. Twentieth edition, revised and newly
stereotyped throughout.   12mo., cloth, $1 25.
"There is a freshness and force in the book altogether unusual in a book of travels. *  *  *
As a text book for travellers, the work is essentially valuable; it tells hovw much can be accomplished with very limited means, when energy, curiosity, and a, love of adventure are the
prompters; sympathy in his success, likewise, is another source of interest to the book." — rsnio?.iiagazinze.
" This is a capital book in whichever way it is considered, brimful of instruction.  Among
the hundred volulnes already issued on the subject, Mr'. Bayard Taylor's seems to us altogether
the best and liveliest. Not only does he possess an open mind, he has also a discerning eye. and
a neat hand at description. There is nothing more graphic in Defoe. It is an excellent and a
lively book."-Athentenm.
ELDORADO; OR, ADVENTURES IN CALIFORNIA AND MEXICO. New
edition, complete  in  1 volume  12mo., with  Illustrations, price,
$1 25.
"These volumes relate most striking and novel adventures, and cannot fail to be eminently'opular "- C7o01ss  er'cica Advertiser.
"They contain the most authentic, sparkling and best printed information and adventure yet
published."-Literary World.
THE LANDS OF THE SARACEN; OR, PICTURES OF PALESTINE, ASIA MINOR, SICILY, AND SPAIN.  With a Map and
Vignettes.   12mo., $1 25.
" It is lnot often our privilege to read so delightful a book as this. * * What a treat for the
holidays! * * What a freshness pervades every page-how full of life and beauty is every picture! " —N: Y; Daily News.
"There is something delightful and fascinating in Bayard Taylor's books-having its origin
chiefly in their fresh tnhacknieyed style.  *  *   His descriptive powers are remarkable."NV. Y. Diispattch.
"The narratives of no traveller of modern times have proved more interesting and instructive than those of Bayard i'aylor." —Nesvcrk WhVigq.
" Exqisite pictures of oriental life everyw-here embellish the narrative, which carries the
reader along withllout the slighlltest sense of fatigue or ennui." —Clarlestos (S. C.) tost.
"Better pictures of orielstal life and scenery than he gives are not to be found in the. English
language.  Certainly if any are to be found which enable us to bebhld " with a clearer inward
eye the hills of Palestine, the Sun-gilded Minarets of Damascus, t  the lovely pine forests of
Phrygia," they have not been placedl within our reach."-Jiicliqgan Cl:ristian lIera(ld.




G. P. Putnam    &  Co.'s Publications.                      15
BAYARD  TAYLOR S WOP.KS —Co2tinZaed.
A JOURNEY TO CENTRAL AFRICA; OR, LIFE AND LANDSCAPES FRO0M EGYPT TO TIlE NEGRO KINGDOMS OF THE WHITE
NILE. With a Map and Illustrations by the Author. 12mo.,
$1 50.
" IIe writes eloquently, easily. and with a vivid feeling for the picturesque; he has a lively
sense of humor and does not indulge it too much; and best of all, he can feel sincere enthusiasm
for the beautifull in nature and art, and is not ashamed to own it." * * * —LonCdoan Leader.
" It is very rarely our good fortune to meet with such a delightful book of travel; it comes
with all the freshness of reality, and snakes us long to pack a portmanteau, put Mr. Taylor's
book in our pockets and set off by express train for the land of the pyramids. * * * With this
beautiful passage we must leave a book which has compensated many, many weary hours in
reviewing the colmmonplace productions of the day."-Lonldon Atglust
" If it were possible to add any thing to the fascination which attracts so many travellers to
the banks of the Nile, this volume would do it."-Londosn Daily News.
"As a vivid delineator, it would be difficult to overmatch Mr. Taylor." —Liv. Stazdacrd.
"IHe proceeds by the N ubian Desert and the White Nile to Khartoun, penetrates to the
populous Negro Kingdon of the " Shillocks," having reached a point of Central Africa beyond
which modern explorers have hitherto failed to penetrate."-Loondo e Rneview.
"Treading for the most part on unhackneyed ground, he has produced a volume as fresh
and original as it is brilliant, and even when gleaning from old fields, surprises us by the novelty of his obs:rvations and discoveries."'- Yazskee Bl(lde.
"As a writer of travels, especially, he has never found his equal."-Blffalo Demnocracy.
"No other American traveller has passed over the field before him, and his narrative is a
positive addition to the stock of human knowledge.
" Ajourney which led him into fresh untrodden fields."-Clevelascd Plaiszdealer.
"There is no romance to ius quite equal to one of Bayard Taylor's books of travel. Fact
under his wonderful pen is more charming than Fiction." —Ilartford R2epublican.
A VISIT TO INDIA, CHINA, AND JAPAN. By BAYARD
TAYLOR.  With  Frontispiece  and Vignette  engraved  on steel.
Large 12mo, pp. 504.   $1  50.
" Bayard Taylor is certainly a remarkable man. The more we see of him in his writings
and the more we hear of him, the more we admire him. I-He is decidedly the American traveller and travel-writer."-New Havens Courier.'" We find it useless, however, to search for passages of greater length, that would afford any
adequate conception of the instruction and delight promised by this work, full as it is of adventure, inc:dent, and anecdote, woven together in a rich web of description." —lharleston Coour
"Commence where you will in this last book of his, and you will find yourself immediately
interested, and will reluctantly leave the narrative."-Bostosn Traveller.
"In some respects it is the most valuable of the series, for though less furnished with the
poetic and the historical, it contains more of description and information concerning scenes and
people comparatively new." —;  Y. ldependeendet.
"The fascination surrounding the visions of India which from youth-time one has carried in
his imagination loses none of its enchantment as he follows Mr. Taylor through his volume;
while mnysterious China and Japan, though disrobed of the veil which has surrounded them, are
as inviting to curiosity as ever."-St. Louis Evenisng News.
"Not a page of this book but is replete with interest, not a page but reveals some curious
fact, not a page but glows with some vivid description or humorous episode." —N. Y. Saturday
Couries.




16                 G. P. Paut'acm & io. s Publications.
EXTRA.AOP DINARY NPARRATIVE.
A PE:RSONAL NARRATIVE OF A VISIT TO EL MlEDINAHI AND MIECCAH.  By LT. RIdCiAID ] BURTON, Bomlbay
Army.  With an Introductior, by BAYAPD TAYLOR.  With a
Map and two Illustrations.  Large 12mo.  $1 50.
The history of this curious book is as follows:
Burton, an officer in the East India Company, having, by a long residence in Upper India, acquired a perfect knowledge of the Oriental languages and customs, projected a v'isit under the auspices of the Royal
Geographical Society, to the Holy City of Mecca and the Tomb of the
Prophet at Medina, places rarely, if ever before visited by any Englishmnan.  This lie successfully accomplished in 1853-4, disguised as a Mohamnmedan Dervish. The history of the pilgrimage is not surpassed in interest and originality by any book of travel ever published-embracing
his residence at Cairo as Mohaamnedan student; the journey across the
desert with the great annual caravan of Pilgrims; the visit to the tomb
of Molhalmlmed; the discovery that the sacred black stone of Mecca is an
ahrolite; the annual sermon preached at Mecca to an estilnated audience
of 150,000 Pilgrims, gathered from' all parts of the BIoslem world; his
narrow escapes fironom detection; and the only accurate account ofthe ceremonies of the Mussulman faith.
To the religious community this work furnishes information never before made public, respecting the cereinonial laws of a large proportion of
the population of thle Eastern worl(l; while for general interest Burton's
narrative will compare favorably with either Eothen, or Crescent and the!R. STEWART'S NEW  WVORK ON BIRAZIL.
BRAZIL  AND  LA  PLATA.   Personal Narrative of a Visit
there, 1850-3.  By Rev. C. S. STEWART,  Chaplain U. S. Navy.
Author of a " Visit to the South Seas," &c.  W;ith two Illustrations.  12tmo, $1 25.
*** This very interestillg volume gives a variety of curious and entertaining information,
which is to a great extent novel as well as authentic and reliable. It is a work elinently
snited for popular reading and for school libraries, &c.
HON. MISS MURi]AY'S LETTERS.
LETTERS FROM THE UNITED STATES, CANADA AND
CUBA.  By Hon. AMrELIA M. MURRAY.  10th thousand. 1 vol.
12mo, $1 00.
DR. KANE'S ARUTIC EXPLORATIONS.
ARCTIC  EXPLORATIONS; The Second Grinnell Expedition.
1853-5.  By E. K. KANE, M. D., U. S. N.  With 300 Illustrations on wood and steel, beautifully executed. 2 vols. 8vo. 85,