MIE S  U L L A 11
OR, TIDINGS
FROM JERUSALEM.e
FROM THE JOURNAL OF
A BELIEVER
RE.ENTLY RETURNED FROM THE
HEOLY LAND.
Comfort ye —comfort ye, my people,
Sa-ith your God-speak ye comfortably,
To Jerusalem and cRY unto her,
That her welfare is accomplished.-Isa. xl. 1, 2
SECOND EDITION, REVISED:
PUB3LISHIED BY TltE AUTHIOR
1851.




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-    Tappan Presbuterian fssosiation
From  L1Ibrar  ReA    D fY fd
(Presented by HON. D. BETHUNE DUFFIELD,
From  Library of Rev. Geo. Duffield, D.D.
&~LII CbII       LLll    ILblLIIIlI         L UIILLL   1II




ME SR ULLAM 
OR, TIDINGS
[ROM JERUSALE 
FROM  THE JOURNAL OF
A BELIEVER
RECENTLY RETURNED FROM THE
HOLY LAND,
Comfort ye-comfort ye, my people,
Saith your God-speak ye comfortably,
To Jerusalem and CRY unto her,
That her welfare is accomplished.-Isa. xl. 1, 2.
SECOND EDITION, REVISED:
PUBLISHED BY THE AUTHOR.-,
1 851.




Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1850, by
A. B. WOOD,
in the Clerk's Office, of the District Court of the Eastern
District of Pennsylvania.
JOHN C. ROBB, PRINTE, 8 Pear Street, Philadelphia.
R. P. IORIDGB, S.TEREOaPER,'raaklin Plase.




APOLOGY
FOR THE SECOND EDITION.
The unexpected clemency and approbation which the
first edition of this little work has received from the public press-Secular, Literary, and Religious,-in this city
and elsewhere, the deep interest in its subject, awakened
in the hearts of many devoted and inquiring Christians,
and the increasing demands for copies, must be our first
apology for the present reprint of the "Tidings from
Jerusalem."  We are happy to add the independent testimony of different individuals, —in Germany and Palestine,
who are interested and engaged in the same object, in
confirmation of the positions and facts already given. We
also give extracts from another letter from Mr. Meshullam, his wife, and eldest son, with his receipt of the first
donations from this land to aid his work in Bethlehem.
Three months have passed since "the Tidings" were
published. One thousand copies by an obscure individual
effort, have been widely scattered, and returns for half
its printing received. But for Jerusalem's sake we cannot rest, and again send forth our weak appeal, in behalf of
the mourners and ashes of Zion. We bring facts well
attested, a providential opportunity for active Christian
benevolence, unparalleled!
But who will believe our report, and faithfully respond
to its call! An intelligent devotecl Israelite in BETHLEHEwM,
has successfully comnnencecl the cultitation of the desolate
soil! He proposes to extend his labors, and teach his suffering brethren, this first true art of livelihood! I-Ie writes
iii




iv7~ ~           APOLOGY.
that he cannot receive the applications which they make.
lie appeals to us for aid, not for himself, but for the destitute and dying! the devout remnant of Israel, who are
imprisoned by want, among the ruins of Jerusalem!
WThere are the professed friends of the natural seed of
Abraham?  MlNany professions of love have been written
and spoken, but where is the reality? the " MERCY" by
which " they may find mercy.7"  A few laboring and devoted Christians are ready to go and co-operate with him,
and sacrifice their life to this object, to cultivate and build
the desolate wastes, and comfort the captive daughter
of Jerusalem! THEY WAIT, —and the responsibility of
their delay rests not at their humble thresholds.*
If Meshullam should fail in his noble beginning, and his
hands hang down with his unrelieved burden, how shall
we meet the crucified and COMINTG ONE, when he shall
say, I was an hungered,-I was thirsty,-I was a stranger, —naked,-sick,-and in prison,-and ye ministered
not unto me in these my NATURAL brethren.
A moderate, economical expenditure is all that is needful to begin the work, which, with the Divine blessing on
judicious manual labor, will soon sustain itself, and extend
its aid to many destitute Jewish families.  As I close
these last pencilings-the cold certainty comes over my
heart that many a professed lover of Jesus will pass by
on the other side, and leave this humble work, and its
blessing to some poor Samaritan, and retire to their
"ceiled houses," while the place of the name of the Lord
of Hosts lies desolate.
* See Appeal at close of the volume.
PEILADZLPHmA, March 28, 1851,




IN TR OD U CTION.
THROUGH the solicitation of some dear Christian friends
in England, and in Philadelphia, and with a humble hope
of encouraging some of the weakest of "the household of
FAITHI, I have been led to publish this imperfect journal,
which at first was hastily pencilled by the way, and was
only designed for the eye of one or two beloved friends in
Christ, whose kind sympathy and aid has long been used
of the Lord, as a strength and solace, in the trying walk
of faith.
From my earliest recollections, through the influence
of a devoted and praying mother, (whom I lost at an early
age,) I have, with more or less desire, been seeking to
KNOW  and serve the living God. Many failures, at different times, have humbled and chastened my soul before him.
Twenty-four years I was conscientiously walking in connexion with the Congregational Church of a Puritan
ancestry, and, with little sectarianism, cherished attachment and reverence, for the ministry and churches of all
evangelical Protestanism. I had entire confidence in the
Scriptures, and received their most literal and definite
sense in regard to present, practical duty, and future
promise. In the latter part of these years, I began to
realize a great discrepancy between the religion and form
of godliness in this age, and its power manifested in the
Scriptures in the lives of its early witnesses.  This caused
my heart much grief and discouragement, as to our common
salvation.  I searched commentaries, and read the biographies of ancient and later Christian experience, which
more confirmed my sense of the great degeneracy of our
common profession of religion, in its general falling away,
coldness of love, and weakness of spiritual life. This
mostly I realized in myself, and often struggled, with
fastings and tears, for a greater nearness to the life of
Christ; knowing that no corporate, or general failure, is
1-D                    v




Vi                 INTRODUCTION.
any excuse for individual unfaithfulness. I felt a sincere
sympathy for all benevolent effort, and according to
means and opportunity, I sought to relieve my need
of spirit by such active service.  In this course, I sometimes experienced the Divine presence, and blessing, but
felt a want of life and sufficiency in all outward means,
and became still more and more dissatisfied with my low
state of spiritual attainment. I studied with interest
the unfulfilled portions of the prophetic Scriptures, relating to the New Earth and a state of blessedness in the
dim future.  In this state of mind, in the autumn of 1842,
I first heard the Gospel, of "the kingdom of God at hand,"
and the pre-millenial advent of our blessed Lord and
Saviour Jesus Christ!
It was a startling sound, as a thrilling melody from
heaven, awaking my soul from its pale dreams of midnight,
to their certain, near and more glorious reality. At first
I dared not believe, and commenced a new search of
the prophetic word, with a life and dilligence unkown
before, accompanied with sincere humiliation and earnest
cries to God for his help and guidance.  After some
weeks of intense application, the Lord in great mercy
began to open my understanding, with deep convictions of
its reality, to see and receive his truth. I cannot here
speak of the searching, santifying experience, that followed of strivings, and tears, and prayers, for a preparation to meet the Lord, and to be accepted of him, and
of the inward lie, and joy unspeakable succeeding,-for
my belief in the nearness of the time of his coming, made
my case imperative.  True, I then only apprehended some
of the great outlines of the prophetic chart, for with many
fundamental points of truth, were mixed serious misapprehensions and remains of tradition,which since, I humbly
trust, have been mostly removed.  This long-neglected
truth, of the personal coming, and reign of Christ, which
was the life, and "' blessed hope," of the New Testament
ministry in the first call of the Gentiles in the East, began
to be truly revived in Germany and in England during
the last fifty years, and afterwards, about the year 1843,




INTRODTUCTION,                 vii
it burst forth in its closing power in this far Western
land, of the setting sun. Such was its power, that the
sound echoed through the extent of Christendom, and
many of us believed, as did the disciples when Jesus
rode in Jerusalem, that'"the kingdom would immediately
appear."  But we now see that "the day of his preparation," must precede his coming, and in this " TIME of the
END many shall be purified, and made white, and tried,"
and have an understanding of the times, while the wicked
are doing wickedly, and do not understand. It is represented as a short time, when "'the just shall live by
faith," and have need of patience, that they may ENDUJRE
unto the end. It is "' the day of (or preceding) his coming,"
which few can abide, for "he is like a refiner's fire, and
fuller's soap'," when his fan is in his hand, and he will
thoroughly purge his floor," that He may "gather the
wheat into his garner," at his appearing; the "'perilous
times," of the last days of the times of the Gentiles,"
when righteousness must greatly decline, and fall away,
and' men shall be lovers of their own selves,'" and have the
forn, and profession of godliness, and deny its power;
"the days of the Son of Man9," which are as'the days
of Noah and Lot," on account of great wickedness, preceding sudden judgment, when the SON OF MAN SHALL
COME, and a king shall reign in righteousness,"upon Mount
Zion, and the Lord shall be king over all the earth." Then
shall come'the regeneration, when the Son of Man shall
sit on the throne of his glory," and bring the "' restitution
of all things, which God hath spoken, by the mouth
of all his holy prophets since the world began;" when the
promise of Abraham will be fulfilled, to all his natural
and spiritual seed, and the curse of the land shall be
removed, and it shall become "d as the garden of the Lord."
As the experiment of disobedience, and sin, through the
first Adam, has been fully wrought in six thousand
years of misery and death, so now, the redemption through
the grace of Jesus Christ, the second Adam, will be
gloriously shown, and finished, in his personal reign,
with his saints, for one thousand years, "for he must




v1i                INTRODUCTION.
reign, till he hath put all enemies under his feet." In that
time, all things shall be subdued unto him, after which
the kingdom shall be delivered up unto the Father, and
God shall be all in all, in the final glory of the New
Jerusalem.
lMany can now unite, in something like this general
outline, of the hope of the Scriptures; but there seems
to be a twilight as to DISTINCT vision, in most believing
minds, overshadowing, and confusing the events, that
directly unite the present and future dispensation, and
usher in the MOMENT of the Lord's coming. Consequently,
a great variety of expectations exist, as to the immediate
future. A sacred awe should inspire us with the deepest
humility, and lead us to pause in any arbitrary theory that
might hinder an unbiassed reception of any lesson, from
providential developements now rapidly transpiring. The
sympathy of. many believers has for some years been
awakened respecting the natural Israel, and to minds of
spiritual discernment, there seems something of true life,
now ready to open dispensationally in their behalf. Not
by the concentration of ecclesiastical power, or the wisdom
of man, but by the dawning from on high, of the "SET
TIME to favor Zion."  At the begininng of the Gentile
dispensation, when the divine ministration passed fromn
the Jews to the Gentiles, the Apostle Paul said, "HIave
they stumbled that they should fall? God forbid; but
rather, through their fall, salvation is come to the Gentiles.
Now if the fall of them be the riches of the world, and
the diminishing of them the riches of the Gentiles, how
much more their fulness;" "for if the casting away of
them be the reconciling of the world, what shall the receiving of them be, but life from the dead?"  "For I
would not, brethren, that ye should be ignorant of this
mystery, lest ye should be wise in your own conceits, that
blindness IN PART is happened to Israel UNTIL the fulness of the Gentiles come in."  As the Lord Jesus, speaking in Luke of the time of his coming, saith of Israel;
"They shall be led away captive into all nations, and
Jerusalem shall be trodden down of the Gentiles UNTIL




INTRODUC TION,                  X
the tilmes of the Gentiles be fulfilled,"  These Scriptures
show, that the natural branches were only broken off for
a determined season, in which time God would'visit
the Gentiles, to take out of them a people for his name,"
to be grafted into the good olive tree; after which fulness,
the natural branches will be grafted in again.
But to return to my experience: Since the time of my
first expectation of the coming of the Lord, my soul has
been gradually passing through deepening waters, of trial,
sacrifice and refining, I can solemnly say, with one only
desire and strife, to KNOW and obey the Lordcl This course
has cost me many sorrows, from grieving those I loved, and
the loss of all things of this life.  It is a serious thing, to
yield our'" spirit, soul, and body," 1" a living sacrifice to
God," and to LIE DOWN on the altar of his will. In questions of daily and present duty, I have not dared to lean
to my own understanding, nor the desire or wisdom  of
human teaching, but have chosen, at the risk of all consequences, which my natural sensitive, and cautious mind
ever duly weighed, to prove the Lord in simple obedience to
his word, his providence, and his Spirit. I BELIEVE, and
desire humbly to practically receive, the living example and
words of our blessed Lord, in his Sermon on the Mount,
and the 12th of Luke, and elsewhere, as to the entire
sacrifice, and consecration of our life; also, the possession
of that divine ministry and teaching, which he enjoins in
John xiv. 16, 17, 21, 26; also, John xvi. 7-15, respecting
the reality of the person and mission of the Comforter;
also, the testimony of the Apostle, Rom. viii. 4. 5, 9, 14,
and Gal. v. 16, 18, 25; and I esteem it the blessed
privilege of every believer so to walk as not to grieve
" the Holy Spirit of God, by which we are sealed unto the
day of redemption."
During these years of waiting, I saw the machinery
of Gentile organizations becoming still more complicated
and divided, and their wheels dragging heavily, as if the
glory was departing, and sought the Lord much, with
many tears, to know where the ark of his testimony was
resting, and where was the moving and hiding of his power?




X                    INTRODUCTION.
Such was the travail of my spirit, at one time, that I was
confined to my bed for some days, when a passage of Scripture was strongly impressed upon my mind. 1 Chron. xi.
16, 17: " And David was then in the hold, and the Philistines' garrison was then at Bethlehem; and David longed,
and said, Oh, that one would give me drink of the water
of the well of Bethlehem, that is at the gate;" and the following lines were given me impromptu, in prayer, but I then
understood little of their definite import:
In the Hold, long oppressed by Earth's wearisome strife,
My soul is athirst for the waters of LifeAnd longs for the Well-spring at Beth-lehem's gate,
Where its fount gushes freely, this thirst to abate.
Oh! who will break THROUGH, in the strength of the Lord,
And at once overcome-by his Spirit and WordThe uncircumcised Host, that opposeth His reign,
And bid the sweet waters of Life FLOW again?
Oh! who will "GO up," and the Land now possess,
In the Name of the Highest his Sabbaths redress-'Till the praise of that NAME in loud chorus shall rise,
From mountain and valley, from ocean and slkies.
Oh! who shall BETWEEN the bright Cherubims PASS,
And restore the LOST garden of beauty at last;
Who shall give to its long desert bowers their bloom,
And say to the Saved, and the Ransomed RETURN.
For ONE we have waited, for ONE we have soughtWhile lords and gods many, great wonders have wrought;
But NONE has brought forth-the SALVATION, the LOVE,
And we WAIT yet ANOTHER, to come from above.
His Name must be JESUS! —no other we know,
Who can BID the wide Stream of REDEMPTION to FLOW;
Who can BREAK through the Host, the Inheritance bless,
And RESTORE the LOST children of EDEN to REST.
For many months my mind was deeply exercised in spirit,
and I was directed towards Jerusalem, though I had no
outward reason for expectation, or spiritual profit for




INTRODUC TION.                Xi
myself or others there. Long and agonizing was my inward
struggle, against the thought of going. Outwardly, I had
every thing to lose, and suffer; and inwardly nothing apparently to gain; but the conviction of my soul increased
every hour, that God was calling me to go! —to forsake
all, and venture wholly on him, without a reason why!
But this was accompanied with a strong assurance, that
my late prayer should be answered, and blessing would
follow. At length I submitted, some months before the
expected hour of leaving, and in silence began to make
some little preparation. As I had no pecuniary means,
and could ask no one for money, I rested on the certainty,
that if the Lord did not provide so large a sum, in some
extraordinary way of his own, I still should be spared the
fearful sacrifice. Step by step, I slowly finished every
preparatory arrangement of duty in my power. One week
remained, and I had not received the money; but still felt
a strange certainty that it would come. I had a few beloved
friends in Christ, to whom with trembling I unburdened
my heart, who, though they could not believe with me, had
grace and love to bear with my bonds, but were astonished
and grieved at my purpose; this increased my pain, and
my pillow was nightly wet with tears. When four days
remained, I received about half what my strictest need
would demand, from a source from which I had not expected
assistance. A few humble but praying, souls sympathised
with my sore travail, and wrestled much with God for me.
The last day came; and half an hour before I left, two
dear friends, came in haste, and completed the sum, so long
promised in spirit!! One said: " I could scarcely sleep
last night, and can feel no rest till you are gone!!" —— I
was overcome, and compell.ed, by this peculiar manifestation, of the Divine will, for many casual hindrances might
have prevented this sudden sacrifice of the pious donors,
and I immediately set out, and they with the kindest sympathy rode with me to the river, as I must take the cars on
the other side, expecting to find a sea-passage from New
York. The inward struggle of my heart was great, as for
the last time I looked into each silent room of my quiet




Xii                INTRODUCTION.
home, which so long had been a Bethel to my soul, and
where my prayers and tears had so often mingled. A little
delay in conversation prevented our reaching the railway
in time, and I was obliged to wait in Camden for another
train.  My faith was perplexed, at such a failure in the
first step. I must here say, that I was entirely unadvised
of the best Eastern route attainable, with my moderate
means; having made much inquiry to little purpose; but
the same evening I saw a paper advertising a vessel to sail
immediately from Philadelphia to Marseilles. After prayer,
I decided to wait, and inquire respecting it. It proved to
be a common merchant vessel, owned and commanded by
a Christian captain, from Maine, whose wife and daughter
were accompanying him, and I engaged passage with him
for about half the usual price I! from which circumstance,
I felt satisfied with my late apparent hindrance,




JOURNAL FROM PHILADELPHIA
TO
JERUSALEM.
WRITTEN ON SHIPBOARD, MAY 16, 184.
Upon Columbia's Ocean-cradled strand,
A watcher with prospective glass, I stand,
Far peering eastward, through the gathering gloom,
Where thickens darkest, Earth's approaching doom;
Nations and thrones, by heaving Earthquakes riven,
With pestilence, and war, and famine, driven.
And as the conflict deepens into night,
I wait till darkness shall give place to light,
With hope expectant, of a brighter day,
To drive these shades of sin and death away.
And now at length, as like a beacon star,
A radiance dawns, o' er Judah's HILLS afarThe desolate and long-forsaken hearth,
That gave the oracles of wisdom birth,
The mount of Prophecy, the fount of Song,
"' Vision of peace," the beautiful, the strong,
Zion ARISE! the measured time has come,
When thy dispersed, and torn, shall gather home,
For thy long night, of exile dire is past,
And " Gentile times," and rule, run out at lastTo greet thy Sons, and hail Earth's Jubilee,
I venture forth, a pilgrim lone to be,
Across the broad waves' weary breast, to go,
And only rest where Shiloh's waters flow.
Mkay 28, 1849.-These blank pages were presented to
me, by a beloved friend, just before embarking, with my
dear A —-, on this voyage of many prayers and tears,
in which, if health permit, I hope to pencil often by the way,
2                       13




1.                 THE AZORES:
trusting that if we fail not in our errand, they may contain
somewhat of interest, for such an one, on our return.
We have been now thirteen days on board, and our little
bark has been so favored of the Lord with fair wind, that
we are about half-way to Gibraltar, yet I have been so
weak with sea-sickness, and my old difficulty, (dyspepsia,)
together with the new and constant motion of the vessel,
that this is the first moment I have been able to write. The
change in our diet is so great, that nothing but the power
and goodness of God can keep us. We have much *for
which to praise him, in our present condition. Captain
P —-- is a very kind, worthy man, and seeks to make us
as comfortable as his circumstances will permit. We
have more room than is usual in such vessels, and no other
passengers, which gives us opportunity to think and pray.
ably 29. —It is a bright and beautiful day. I am better
in health, and have been able to walk on deck, and watch
the far blue depth, stretching far and trackless around me.
Oh, what a school and mystery is human life!  I seem as
in a dream! A few days since, I had a quiet home, and
friends I loved; but now I am a weary stranger, a pilgrim
on the sea. My heart still trembles, and my tears will flow
at the strange sacrifice-unmurmuring! Beloved one,
good night!
JTune 5.-To-day we are lying becalmed, in the neighborhood of the Azores, lat. 37. long. 29.  So far there has
been no incident worthy of relation.  The last. few days
we have had light contrary winds, the weather cool and
rainy, and motion sufficient to keep me from writing.  I
do not suffer severely, though still constantly affected with
weakness and nausea of the stomach, and heat and oppression in the head.  Our accommodations are as comfortable
as we could expect; and but one serious occasion of uneasiness, which is, that our ship is old, and the pilot gave us a
rub on one of the last sand-bars in the bay, since which
the sailors have been obliged to pump nearly every hour!
This gives us room for FAITH in GoD, as man cannot help
us. Almost all our little comforts speak some cherished
name, and bring up from our hearts a constant echo of




PIC O-FAYAL —GRACIOSA.               15
love unfeigned. Oh, when shall the sweet moment of return,
and redemption come, when the weary and the heavy-laden
shall go home to an eternal rest?  Nothing, but the consciousness that I am sincerely following the call of God,
could give me hope in the dark and trying prospect before
me. If I please Hri, I have gained every thing; if I
have failed, I can but perish.  I walk by.AIMT, and not
by sight, and know assuredly that I please not myself, and
trust the issue with the Lord.
June 7. —We have had head winds for several days, and
have been beating about nearly in the same neighborhood.
This morning, the Captain's daughter went on deck, at the
strange cry of " land ho!" and soon came down and reported
to me, that we were near another shore, far away from our
own beloved. After breakfast, I went up with her, and saw
the Islands of Pico and Fayal nearly ahead.  They
seemed of a deep blue in the distance, and a beautiful
wreath of white clouds girdled the high mountain peak
of Pico. The view I here sketch, is imperfect on account
of the rough head sea. This is the twenty-third day since
we came on board, and although the time seems long, we
have great reason to praise the Lord for his sustaining and
preserving love.
In the afternoon we ran in near to the Islands, and passed
four in number.  Their appearance is different from  any
thing I have before seen, the centre of each is the highest,
from which the surface slopes, with more or less inequality
and undulations to the shore. I saw no forest trees; but the
soil is all carefully cultivated, garden-like, with the spade,
and laid out in small squares, or beds, with vegetables,
potatoes, grain, and several varieties of fruit and vines.
These tiny patches, and their varying hues of color, seem,
in the distance, like one beautiful mosaic extending over
mount and Vale.  The Island of Graciosa (the Spanish
of Gracious) I think is the most beautiful of the group; in
gentle undulations, orange-groves, vines, etc., like one entire garden, spotted with small, white cottages. At the south
end, there is a considerable town; I saw two steeples, and
some fine buildings.  Here, I am told, they have no frost,




16                 EEUROPE-AFRICA.
and no venomous reptiles, and the inhabitants enjoy a summer's sky, far away from the great world's bustle. Its
loveliness was enhanced by the long ocean-waste, over
which we have just passed, and I sighed for the New
Earth-Paradise. They are Portuguese, and rent the soil
of feudal owners, and are under the Roman Catholic religion.
June 17.-Yesterday we made the Cape of St. Vincent,
the southern extremity of Portugal; and to-day we have
just hailed the dim outlines of the neighborhood of Gibraltar, and the far African coast. My heart weeps for thy
wrongs, Oh, Africa! the sunny home, our Father once gave
to his dark-browed children, who now, by their brethren's
hand, are homeless and bound!
We are sailing opposite Cape Trafalgar, and as I look at
the history of the past, the waters beneath us seem dyed
in blood, and I shudder at the thought of the scenes of
piracy and war, (legalized murder,) that have crimsoned
their tide.
In this vicinity, my own father, long since, was seized
with his vessel, and carried lawlessly into Algiers, and
condemned to be a prisoner for life! But God rescued
him from  the Algerine, and restored him to his young
wife's prayers and tears. I can say little that is interesting concerning our voyage, as I have been much indisposed; yet the tender mercy of the Lord has been constantly with me. There has been no storm, but light
winds and cool nights. My sensations are new and strange!
Another world opens to my sight; before, I have only
seen it by faith, but now, my senses demonstrate its
reality. So shall we soon prove the existence of the
unseen, and spiritual world, spoken of by many witnesses,
in the Scriptures. Several fishing boats are near, full
of robust, dark looking forms they cheered us kindly,
and strove to throw some of their fish on to our deck,
showing that they are human, and belong to the same great
brotherhood of man. The sand, rocks, and irregular hills,
bear the same Maker's impress as those in our own
dear land. The sky is just as blue and bright, and the




THE STRAITS-GIBRALTAR.               1]7
white clouds, in beauty float above, the very same, as in
the long June days they rest over the green baniks of the
Schuylkill and Delaware.  It is our first warm day, and
a quiet breeze, with the ceaseless current running from
the Atlantic to the Mediterranean, is floating us rapidly
toward the Straits.  This kindly welcome, from  these
stranger fishermen, is a sweet token that our Father in
heaven can turn all foreign hearts from  harm, towards
his defenceless pilgrims.  Beloved friend, good night!
Jougle 18.-The wind fell as we came near the Straits,
and I made a sketch at sunset, of the lighthouse on point
Tarifa, the southern extremity of Spain, 15 miles outside
the rock of Gibraltar; and on the opposite shore, of the
rock of Abyla, the northern point of Africa. This latter,
with the rock of Gibraltar, were styled by the ancients the
Pillars of Hercules, which mark a most interesting point
between two continents, an ocean 3000 miles wide behind,
and a sea 2500 miles before uc on a track more beaten
than any on the deep seas.
Jacne 19.-In the:night a head wind arose, and we beat
our way, until at sunrise we came near the celebrated
rock of Gibraltar.  The sea is very rough, but I have
succeeded in - getting a hasty outline, of its first appearance, as we approached it, nearly opposite the light-house.
I have been suffering much, for a few days past with dyspepsia, and begin to long for the shore..Jhfne 21.-We are becalmed, and only fifty miles from
the Straits! The weather is very fine, but the delay is
wearisome.  I have been looking, for the fi'st time (since
they were given me at leaving home,) at two daguerreotypes, all I have with me, and what a thrill of tenderness
sweeps over my heart as I look at these beloved shadowskind helpers of my better life, whose Christian sympathy
is with me still, "without the camp."  The LORD REiEMBER and reward your love 
My sensations are peculiar and mixed, as I look round
on this new hemisphere!   The air is bland; the sky exceeding blue, and the light and shadowy clouds, like snowy
wreaths of flowers; the distant hills, on the Spanish coast,




18             THE MEDITERRANEAN.
in dim but picturesque outline, while the calm waters of
the blue Mediterranean glisten in the sunlight around
me. I seem lost in undefined reverie! Is it myself? and
am I approaching the classic shores of my early imaginings? when all would have been Elysian! But how unlike
my former self! How changed my hopes and my ambition! I still LOVE the pure and the beautiful; but my
heart seeketh, and RESTETH alone, in that which is fadeless
and true. I still love, and love with more devotion, all
that our Father in heaven hath made; ALL, the least
that are lovely, in form or spirit, with sympathetic comPLACENCE —according to their approximation  to the
DIVINE; and ALL things, animate and intelligent, that
are unlov:Ely through estrangement from God, I love with
earnest benevolence. From the feverish thirst, the impulsive inspirations of my own restless spirit, I. have turned,
and seek to follow the light that shineth within my heart
from Heaven. So SURE as there, is a genius, and a gift
of mind, in man, while he is in nature and unsanctified, so
SURE, there is a higher, more spiritual, and true intelligence,
and power, received from the Author of LIFE and wisdom,
by those who are WEARY, and fully turn from the broken
cisterns of a self-life, and seek only the TRUE, and the
ETERNAL-the LOVE, that cannot die.
tJane 22.-The weather is warm and fine; the sea calm,
with only an occasional gentle breeze.  It is thirty-eight
days since we sailed, and they seem longer than they do
on shore. We are just now drifting near the Spanish
coast, which appears, from this distance, like one range of
barren mountains, rocky and sterile, with some eminences
of considerable height, covered'with snow.  After the
activity and excitement of the last few years, how strange
is this quietude-this almost, vacuum of existence! and
leisure for thoughtful reminiscence, which is only broken
by the often recurring necessities of ship circumstances.
Those around me are all occupied with any thing but my
heart's treasure, and its language and burden unknown
by them. Oh, how I long to finish the work that has
been given me to do, and to see the beloved of my soul,
even Jesus, in his coming glory!




SPANISH COAST-MARSEILLES.               19
June 28.-We are still hindered by alternate calms
and contary winds, along the Spanish coast. One mountain rock appears so beautiful, encircled mid-way with a
wreath of white mist, that I here send a poor sketch;
the declivity on one side is thickly dotted with olive trees,
and our chart calls it " Olivio." Several picturesque boats
are skimming along near its base, with fanciful, butterfly
looking sails.
July 1. We are slowly moving forward on the calm
summer sea, opposite Barcelona, some 200 miles from
Marseilles, our FIRST port.  Patience and hope are
strangely blended, and I do not envy the poor sailor his
home upon the waters.
July 3.-As we approached the far-famed "Gulf De
Lion," we met a heavy sea, which was soon followed
by a severe gale of wind. Our poor vessel rolled and
pitched fearfully, and the waves roared truly lion-like.
To-day it is subsiding; we are in sight of France, some
thirty miles from our expected port. Truly great has
been the preserving mercy of our God, in thus far bringing us safely on our pilgrimage.
July 6.-On the 4th inst. we arrived in Marseilles.
The harbor is very peculiar; a narrow inlet runs up
from the sea a few miles; it is fenced on each side by high,
naked rocks; becomes very narrow, and opens into a
deep oblong basin, which receives the shipping, and the
city is thickly built around it, with citadels and towers
crowning the natural rock defence at the entrance.
But there are few trees; my weary eyes have in vain
lootked for forest foliage, upon the distant heights of the
Azores, Portugal, Gibraltar, Spain and France, along
the coast. Oh! give me back the green hills and waving
forest trees again!
The city is very ancient, and was in existence before
our Saviour's time.  Oh! how many footsteps, joyous
and sad, have come and gone! The houses look very
uninviting to my unaccustomed eye, more like prisons
than cheerful homes; and most unlike the clean painted
dwellings of Philadelphia-  The strange plaintive tone




20            MARSEILLES —-PERPLEXITY
of the last syllable of this foreign tongue, the various
dress, manners, colors, and features, all confuse and oppress
the poor pilgrims; and, as we pass the narrow, crowded
streets, we see Turks, Greeks, lMoors, and Italians, all
pressing on, in the bewildering strife of natural existence.
MTy spirit looks to catch one eye, that beams with the
meek love of God.  Where shall I find one?  I may not,
but our heavenly Father knoweth every Noah, and every
Lot, whose righteous souls may be vexed at the surrounding  iniquity here.  But it is late, BELOVED  friend;
good night, good night!
July 8.-Wre have two rooms, at four and a half francs
per day, in a large lodging house, which is occupied by
different families, who rent furnished apartments at a stated
price, without board. They have their meals brought
from  a restauraut, or they can order any thing from the
common kitchen, at a separate charge.  The expense of
living seems to be about the same as at- home. - We have
experienced serious difficulty on account of not understanding the French language, in obtaining lodgings, and
suitable food, and the necessary information respecting
the best route eastward, as very few persons speak English,
and the citizens know as little about Jerusalem, as they
do in the United States.  We have inquired of our Consul, but he cannot direct us.  A  missionary from  the
Church of England has called to see us; he says, that he
has a congregation of about twenty hearers! that although
there are many English residents, merchants, etc., there
are few that have any interest, in religion! He could tell
us nothing of the way to Palestine.
In this extremity we were much perplexed, and set
apart most of the time yesterday, to entreat the Lord for
help, and guidance.  It proved to be a season of peculiar
blessing; we were much strengthened, and urged in spirit,
to hasten away from this land, whose soil is stained with
the blood of many martyrs of Jesus! It was also sensibly presented to our minds, while in prayer, that there
is at least one poor Israelite in Jerusalem, who will receive us, and is fainting for help!  Soon after, a young




pIERRE HUGENOT-RE-EMBARK.               21
gentieman, whom we had not seen before, knocked at our
door, and in broken English, apologized for his visit. He
said that he had heard of our case, and came to offer us
any assistance in his power. Ever since, he has been exerting himself in our behalf, and though the weather is
extremely hot, he has been on board of several steamers,
out in the harbor, searched the papers, and visited offices,
and agents, to secure-for us the best and cheapest route.
He has just returned from an excursion to Constantinople,
and has given us much late and useful intelligence.  He
has rooms in the same building, and calls every hour or
two, to speak for any thing we wish. He is intelligent,
and refined in his manners, and treats us with the kindest
attention.  While we feel the most sincere gratitude and
esteem for him, we KNOW that it is THE LORD, that has
sent him to. our relief, and would acknowledge his persevering love, in this timely aid.
July 10.' This afternoon we expect to leave Marseilles
by the English line of steamers from  this place to Alexandria. Pierre Hungenot, our kind friend, has been truly
a helper, in our necessary arrangements; may the blessing of the stranger's God rest upon him!: We have just
parted with our American friends, on board the vessel on
which we came; they have been very kind, and -we must
over esteem Capt. P-, his lady and daughter, with
Christian regard.  A.s our heaviest trunk was taken over
the side of the vessel, it fell into the water, and sank, as we
supposed to rise no more, but, to the surprise of the sailors,
it came up again, and they secured it. For this we would
thank the Lord, as we could have scarcely proceeded without the plain necessary clothing which. it contained.
Judy 12. —On board the British mail steamer for Malta.
We have very few passengers, on account of it being the
hot season. One English officer of the army, and lady,
and some others, en route for India.  The accommodations
in the first cabin are good; the fare is ~9; but we
are in the second cabin, and the fare is ~5; it is situated
directly under the first, and we have no air, excepting
through a grating in its floor above us! The heat is very




22'-,'       ENGLISH STEAMER-MALTA.
oppressive, and I am  writing on the forward deck.  The
poor sailors are bustling around me, and we cannot have
the privilege of an awning, when the sails are set. Imagination already begins to add to the present the opening
vista before us, the arid sands, and scorching-sun of Egypt!
but my only trust and hope is in the Lord, that he will
strengthen me to endure all things which he hath appointed,
and help me to overcome, and return to the precious and
beloved ones, from whom we are now so far separated.
July 13.-At Malta, where the Apostle of the Gentiles
was shipwrecked.  We have changed steamers, and are
now on board of another of the same line, to leave immediately for Alexandria, Egypt.  The fare is ~;12, 10 shil.
lings in the first, and ~7, 5 shillings in the second cabin.
The island appears from the sea like a barren pile of rock;
the high clay-looking walls of the houses are built irregularly, one above another, around a small inlet harbor. The
heat is excessive, and my heart almost melts at the bustle,
and noise of the English war-ships anchored near, and
the strange and heartless bearing of the natives and
port-officers. Oh, when I think of the far away beloved,
among the sweet groves and cool streams of our own dear
land, my spirit would fain whisper to them, to value more,
with grateful love to God, their' Eden heritage.  I am informed that there is considerable cultivation here upon
soil that has been brought in vessels from neighboring
islands, and that this soil must be occasionally renewed.
JulTy 14.-The power of the sun increases, and scarcely
a breath of wind ruffles the glassy surface of the sea, as
our good steamer is bearing away, southeast by east, towards the coast of Africa. The strict order and parade of
a war-vessel is preserved on the steamers of this line:
but THIS commander (of the Medina) has kindly given us
the liberty of the quarter-deck, under its thick awning,
and allowed me a berth in the first cabin, where the portholes are open, which is a great mercy from the Lord in
my present weak state.  I dare not anticipate what may
await me in Egypt, in the uncertainty of further means
of progress eastward, and the hazard of expensive suffer



ALEXAND)RIA-ALI   HAMET.             23
ing detention in Alexandria. While I deeplyrealize the cost
of the sacrifice of all behind me, the pain of the present,
and the darkness and peril of the future, with a solemn
purpose of soul, I would count them all as nothing, so I
may please the Lord, and accomplish his will.
Jly 20. —Arrived at Alexandria the 17th instant. The
coast is sandy and low; there are many wind-mills in
motion near the entrance of the harbor; on the west
side, just within, stands'the palace of the Pasha; high
stone buildings, with windows only in the upper stories,
and'others rough-looking and very inferior, extend with
little order back from the sea. It is the sickly season, and
none of the steamer's crew were permitted to land. We
were soon surrounded with their queer-looking, heavy
boats; Turkish officers, agents, natives, etc., came on
board, and all haste was made to despatch the mail and
passengers on shore; a few connected with the business of
the steamer spoke English.  Among these was a resident,
who conducted us to the house of the American Consul.
He was surprised that we should come in the most unfavorable and sickly season, when any delay in Egypt
would be perilous, and informed us that the English steamer to Jaffa, in which we expected to go, carried only the
mail, and on account of the quarantine could take no
passengers, which rendered our position most perplexing,
and was a severe trial of my faith. He called his Arab
Janisary and interpreter, and directed him to assist us in
the best possible arrangement. Hle is tall, fine-looking,
and intelligent, and has proved to be very kind and energetic in serving us. There are two expensive hotels kept
here, in English style; but he procured us comfortable
lodgings, at two dollars per day, in an Italian house.From the effect of the heat, the excitement and fatigue of
landing and walking in the sun, I was immediately attacked
with symptoms of dysentery, and was confined to my bed
while we remained on shore. After we were settled, our
new friend, Ali HIamet, set about obtaining a passage for us
in a sailing vessel. He returned several times without succcss, expressing much concern for us. I found that there




24                 TURKISII BRIG.
was no regular communication with Jaffa, and that there
was no prospect of a vessel leaving for that place, for a
month. A French steamer, on her way to Beyroot, stops
here regularly, but left a few days before we arrived.Yesterday the harbor-master gave him notice, that a small
brig was about leaving for Beyroot; but that it was filled
with rice, and had no cabin or awning, or accommodations
for board! Beyroot is over a hundred miles beyond Jaffa,
and it will cause us great expense and detention to go
there; but it has frequent communication with Jaffa, and
is our only resource. Ali sought the Turkish captain, and
directed him to make us a tent over his long boat, well
lashed in the middle of the vessel, agreed for a moderate
fare, and then ran all over the city to purchase the necessary stores and furniture for the voyage, which collection
was most novel to me. This is a new way of traveling, but
I will hope all things, and venture forward. He then
came for us, took charge of the baggage through the custom-house, (having two Arabs to carry it before him,) and
brought donkeys for us, not much above the size of a large
dog. Numbers of half-covered men and boys crowded
around and followed us, each striving to lead the donkeys
or carry some bag or umbrella for a reward. The scene
was like a strange caricature; Ali brandishing his plated
staff (an insignia of his office,) with one hand, and holding
a string of crying chickens in the other, going before to
turn aside the droves of laden camels, mules, and donkeys
that were pressing upon us in the mingled crowd. The
custom officers honored him by passing our trunks unopened for a small fee, and we took -a boat, and reached
the brig near the mouth of the harbor. I can scarcely
describe my sensations, as we approached; it is a small
vessel with no bulwarks, so heavily laden, as to leave but a
few feet above the water, and literally covered with human
beings, seated on rough rolls of matting, which were laid
closely over the cargo of rice. A strange chattering and
hallooing commenced between Ali and the crew; the captain was on shore, and the long boat was not prepared.At length Ali succeeded in clearing away a spot in the




FAST OF RAM-A-DAN.                25
centre, where we and our baggage were deposited in the
midst of the astonished gaze of our disturbed neighbors.
All were talking, but we could understand nothing, and the
only one with whom we could communicate must now leave
us. We sat several hours holding our umbrellas, in suffering suspense, until the Captain, (a dark, turbaned man,
in- a loose dress,) came with the boat from the shore. Ali
also returned; it was hoisted in, mats spread, and a low tent
contrived over us; we cannot stand upright, but sit on the
floor like our neighbors. Our trunks are in one end, a
large Egyptian basket with provisions, and cooking and
table apparatus in the other, and we have each a quilt,
carpet-bag and cloak, which must serve for beds, pillows,
and sofa.
JuLy 21. -We are still waiting for wind, and seeking to
accommodate ourselves to our new circumstances.  The
great yearly fast of the Moslems has commenced; and they
call it Ram-a-dcln.  There are a number of the Pasha's
great war-ships near us; they are dressed in all the various colored flags of the Ottoman tribes; I have just
counted above seventy that are different on one ship. The
war-steamers, ships, and forts have been playing a fearful
roundelay of heavy guns, covering the water round us with
thick smoke.  The appearance of the passengers, men,
women, and children, with a great variety of complexion,
feature, and costume, is very novel and picturesque.Among them are Greeks, Moors, Egyptians and Arabs;
the skin of the Africans is more fine, glossy, and jet than
any I have seen at home. All wear large turbans —a few
white, bat mostly of the highest colors, and have generally
long beards. Their coarsest garments are decked with
borders of gay contrast colors; they have generally a close
vest, and a full short skirt, confined below the knees, liko
trousers. They also wear girdles of broad belting, or gay
cotton stuff, bound heavily round the waist, and then
a loose garment., or mantle, thrown across the shoulders.
There is a different arrangement in the skirt with the
women, and a loose thin covering, the size of a large shawl,
variously attached to the head, hanging carelessly over the




26                    PASSENGERS.
shoulders; below this, a piece of thin black cotton stuff is
closely bound across the face, just below the eyes, covering
the nose and mouth, which must occasion great suffering
in this extreme heat. Some poor creatures, otherwise half
covered, are scrupulous to obey this absurd law of human
fashion!  During Ram-a-danz they fast, and only eat one
meal after sunset.  We have but one cook to serve us all,
and he is very busy towards evening preparing this meal.
Some melons, squashes, beans, lentils, rnd rice, are boiled
together, which composes a thick soup; this is poured out
in large wooden bowls; these are set down on a mat, and
pieces of dark-looking, hard bread' laid round, according to
the number to eat from each. In this way each family are
served, and master and wife, and children and slaves, all
sit round together; then the.re is silence, some are counting
beads, and most lips are moving in seeming prayer, thaen
all put in their fingers alternately, and eat together in
silence.  After this they began most piteous chanting, not
in concert, but every one has his own song, sometimes the
sounds break out in bold deep utterance, and then die
away in the most unearthlFy wail, chattering and changing
continually, without tune or measure.  I sit listening, and
imagine it is sincere devotional aspiration, and so unite
and enjoy it well.  They all speak Arabic, and the sound
scelns incoherent and rude.  Ali came in a boat just now
to take leave of us, and brought a kind note from the Consutl.' We have become much interested in this child of
Ishmlael; his attention and kindness has been peculiar, and
he has improved every opportunity of conversation with us;
he confesses faith in God, and a habit of prayer, and a hope
of one day living in Jerusalem! At parting he seemed
much affected, and was unwilling to receive the usual present.  Our meeting with such a kind and efficient helper
in this moment of desperate need, we esteem  as a great
favor from the Lord.  But the light is fading in my little
tent; and we have no lamps, so I must close. Dear friend,
good night!
or whllmse synpaithy and assistance we are more indebted than
to any other, in all our tedious journey.




SO~LOION,                   27
Jtl73/ 22. —TVe  are out at sea, and our heavy craft is
creening along, before a gentle breeze, towards the coast
of Palestine.  The  sea-air has revived my drooping
strength, and we have made acquaintance with a poor
Jew, by the name of Solomon Lubhar, who is returning
from Algiers to his family in-Jerusalem.  I remember a
few words of French and Italian, with which he is a little
acquainted, and he has five or six of English, so that I have
commenced a list of Arabic words by his teaching. IIe
seems to fill Ali's place, and kindly anticipates our wants;
in the heat of the day he borrows mats, and covers our
thin tent, and is our waiter and agent with the Arab cook.
This is a great favor, as we cannot make any one else
understand us.  We have a chicken boiled with rice for
dinner, and a pot of Mocha coffee morning and evening,
which, with bread, raisins, and oil, constitute our living.We have become somewhat intimate with our neighbors,
who seem kind, and seek to oblige and do us good, in many
little ways. There is scarcely an article on ship-board,
or among their stores or baggage, but they have brought
and repeated its name, in Arabic, for me to learn. Several
are afflicted with sore eyes; and having a suitable ointment
with me, it gave me an opportunity of some return; this
they have highly appreciated, and a number have been
relieved.
July 25.-This is the seventh day that we have been on
this Turkish bark, and we make slow progress; we have
had calms and light winds most of the way. At one time,
a contrary wind arose, and all hands were called to trim
the sails. The captain or mate, is always at the helm, and
despite of their efforts, the brig turned round and round,
and was heading for Egypt most of the time until it
abated!! A winter voyage would be perilous with such
navigators.  About noon to-day, there wasta general outcry, and I saw the young leaping and clapping their hands,
and several faces peeped under our canvass, saying, Terra 
Terra!  I looked out, and behold!-the long-sought
PROMIxSED land appeared, like a beautiful shadowy line in




COAST OF.  ALEESTINE.
the dist;ance.i t is indeed the same that I have so often
traced on the sacred page, from my infant years, until
now, my pilgrim vision greets its dear reality. It is the
coast between Joppa and Beyroot, and is included in the
promise to Abraham.,fIiy 27. —We are still upon the sea, which is smooth
as glass, with an occasional zephyr breeze. We are only
half a day's sail from Beyroot, near the shore; sailing on
the Mediterranean in summer, is tedious and uncertain, on
account of such light winds. The appearance of the land
is very beautiful, unlike any I have seen by the way, not
wild and barren, but has gentle hills and vales, and mountains rising in the distance.  It is not rock, but arable soil,
shaded and spotted with green trees and vines.  It is
seventy-three days since we embarked at Philadelphia, and
we are still floating wearily, and are now detained, day
after day, in sight of the long-sought shore.  I sometimes
fear it is a rebuke for my weak and trembling faith, for
many before me, have not been " able to enter in because
of their unbelief 1" When I look back across the sea, as
the sun sinks, in the far, far West, I recall the beloved ones of my soul, and think what a surprise would
seize them, if they could have one glance at the pilgrims,
surrounded by their dark chattering companions; but it
is sweet to know, that One there is who ever sees, and
watches for our good. Addio!
Atyg. 17.-Oh I my dear friend, a long time  has
elapsed, since I have been able to write, and I have suffered many things, of which I will briefly speak. The
next morning after my last date, (July 28th,) before light,
I heard an unusual stir among the sailors, and in a few
moments they began t6 tear away the awning over us, and
to make signs of lifting out the boat. We were unable to
understand their design, or remonstrate, and were ejected
suddenly, having little time to secure loose articles of
m Here I took a sketch, as the view was very beautiful, with gentle hills rising from the sea, shaded with foliage. I regret that
these sketches by the way must be omittedo




BEYROOT                     29
batggage. When it was day, we saw the city of Beyroot
some miles distant; there was no wind, and the sailors
were rowing in the boat ahead of the vessel, towing us
slowly into the harbor. As we drew near, we lost the sea
air, and the power of the sun was such that I nearly
fainted, we could have no meals, and the Nile water had
become poor and warm.'About noon they cast anchor,
but were still distant from the land.  We were obliged
then to wait several hours until the captain raised a yellow
flag, and went ashore, to get an officer from the Quarantine, to come on board, and conduct -us to its safe keeping.
At length a large boat came for us, we and our baggage
were first placed in its centre, and I began to hope, that I
should now be delivered from the fear, and near contact of
the vermin, with which our poor neighbors were infested.
This thought was soon dissipated, as they began to heap in
all their bedding and baggage, and then piled the owners, in
a promiscuous crowd around us!  A young Greek, whose
eyes had been relieved by the ointment, seemed to think
that he had a favorable opportunity of expressing his
gratitude, and with difficulty pressed his way, and seated
himself'close to my side. In vain I made signs of remonstrance, pointing to the creeping plague on his garments, he still retained his position, until we landed.
There was a gentle surf beating into a little cove before
us'anrd Solomon, to prevent the shock against the boat,
sprang  out suddenly, and took me in his arms, and set me
on the shore. This was unexpected, and affected me much
at the time, as I esteem him a devout son of Abraham, who
thus welcomed me to his Father-land.
The Quarantine is composed of rows of low  apartmnents, with a door and a windcow opening to the sea, and
built on a point of rocks, on the north side of the harbor
and city, about a mile distant, near the foot of a range of
MIount Lebanon, that here runs down to the sea. Here
we were met by several Turkish officers, and waited some
time on the beach, till an assortment and disposal of the
baggage and passengers could be made. The superintendent spoke a little English, and two rooms were as3*




30                  QUARANTINE.
signed to us; and Solomon, at my request, was permitted
access to them, and we soon found that our case would
have been desperate without him. The walls and floors
were roughly plastered, and entirely empty, without an
article of furniture. A small colored man was appointed
guardian over us, to keep us from escaping, to lock us
in every night, and bring our water, etc. We had his
board and salary to pay, beside a heavy government tax
for the rooms and other officials, who supply travelers
with provisions, and furniture, at an advanced price of
their own. Sick and fasting, I sat down upon my trunk, and
Solomon, ran and bought of them two large mats. These
were laid dcown, and my quilt and cloak spread upon one;
and this was my bed several days; (after which I became
so ill that he obtained a mattress of the Superintendent,
and during our twelve days imprisonment I was unable to
sit up an hour, having a severe attack of dysentery.)
Here we found the importance of the supply of provisions,
and the cooking utensils, which we had brought from
Egypt. Solomon bought charcoal, and in a corner of the
room, where there was an aperture to let out the smoke,
he kindled a fire, boiled some rice, and made us coffee.
We then returned most solemn thanks to God, for his
preserving mercy, in bringing us thus far on our way, and
permitting us to reach the land of the Bible, and comnitted ourselves anew to his holy keeping.
Our fellow passengers were all confined in rooms near
us, and hearing that I was ill, were often at my door inquiring, and some that were taken with fever, they would
bring in to seek my advice, (two severe cases, by the
blessing of God, on some simple remedies, applied by
Solomon's aid, were recovered,) supposing from the effect
of the ointment that I had farther skill.  One day, when
my symptoms were such, that I had little hope of life, a
Turk, who was in dress and manners superior to the rest,
came bowing in, to the side of my mat, and unwrapped
his ankle and leg, which was full of ulcers, and looked
piteously in my fiae, saying to Solomon, that he had not
slept for many nights; I thought it was probably my last




SICKNESS AND DETENTIOTo               31
opportunity of doing any thing for Jesus' sake, and
directed Solomon to sponge it with warm water, and then
sat up in bed, and was strengthened to spread some ten
or twelve plasters, and apply to the sores.  He then unbound his turban, which- was an embroidered mull-scarf,
and tore a square from one end, with which he carefully
wrapped the whole, and retired.  Next day he came expressing great joy, having slept well all night.  He continued to improve until we left, and manifested much
regard for us.  Solomon was very kind and attentive,
seemed concerned, and often prayed for me, standing upright with his face to the east, and bowing his head to the
ground. As I lay on my low and suffering bed, I reflected
upon the step of faith that had led me there; and was
astonished at the sustaining love of God, which lifted my
soul above despair.  Musquitoes were numerous, and had
a poisonous effect; for my face and hands were covered with
dark, red spots, as if I had just recovered from the smallpox. Fleas were also very troublesome, and large; and
lizards crept up and down, familiarly upon the walls. On
arriving, I wrote a note to our Consul, requesting his
assistance, in securing us a passage to Jaffa, as soon as
our Quarantine should end.  I received in answer, that
the English steamer that leaves Beyroot, once a month,
with passengers for Jaffa, would leave before our time
was out, and that we should be obliged to wait another
month! This prospect was very distressing, as dysentery
and fever, were raging in the city, and an English physician
assures ime that there is more fatality than during the
Cholera last year, or in fourteen years previous! also,
there is but one comfortable hotel, and its charges are
beyond our means! To increase my distress, every specimen of bread, which I could obtain in Beyroot, was so
soall, that the Superintendent said "it taste Lee.mon;"
meaning like lemons, which, in my diseased state, it was
impossible to eat. I had still a few crackers, which I had
brought from Egypt, but the heat was such that they had
become full of worms; these I partly separated and soaked,
which, with a little sweet oil and rice, composed my diet.




32                 ARAB FELLUKA,
At length our prison was unlocked, and two Arabs, with
a boat from the Consul, came for us, with a note that they
would put us on board of an Arab Fielluka going to Jaffa.
I had become greatly emaciated and so weak, that with
difficulty I reached the boat. After rowing a mile in the
sun, we reached a small open craft, without a deck or
awning!! Two or three dark, wild-looking men, with no
dress, but a short apron around their waist, pulled us in,
and cleared away a spot among the ballast, to spread my
mat i I was exhausted with pain and fatigue, and lay
down with my umbrella over my face.  Solomon brought
some water, and hung up some pieces of old matting
over me! I then strove to compose my mind to die, and
lifted my heart to God, entreating that for Jesus' sake,
he would accept the offering of my life. I had only about
a pint of those poor crackers left, the prospect of the
burning sun, an indefinite time at sea, and greater difficulties at Jaffa!  But language can scarcely speak my
suffering position! Just before we left the Quarantine, as
from my bed, I was looking out of the door westward
upon the sea, I saw a fine ship entering the harbor, with
a large flag flying in the wind, and remarked that if it
were a possibility, I should think it was the American
flag, but repressed the idea, and thought no more of it.
This, however, proved to be the case, and was the signal
messenger, which was used ofthe Lord, to save me! But
to return to the Arab boat; towards evening, Solomon
took some charcoal to their caboose,' to make us some
coffee; but they refused him the privilege!  As it grew
dark, we were reflecting upon our state, and beseeching
the mercy of the Lord, when we heard an English voice,
calling our names. This seemed more like illusion, than
reality, until we saw a boat alongside, and the Captain o-'
the American ship just mentioned! He told us afterward,
that he had heard of us incidentally, at the Consul's that
afternoon, and had sought for us in vain on his return to
his ship. That, after tea, his mind was so muich exercised
about us, that he entered his boat again, though so near
dark, to venture inr strange waters among the Arab fleet:




TIHE RESCUE-AMfERICRAN BARQUE.              3
of boats that surrounded us, with no other clue but our
name   After inquiring into our situation, lie kindly invited us to come on board of his vessel in the morning.
He then left, and in a short time his boat returned, with
a liberal supply of the finest ship bread, and several varieties of crackers, cakes, etc! This unexpected providencein this destitute region, in our state of su~7jeriny and danzger,
in the n2igfht on the sea, among A1rabs, can scarcely be
truly appreciated, by others, in its sudden effect upon our
hearts.  Our moaning prayer was turned into thanksgiving
and joy, as if an angel had been sent down from heaven
to our relief  We received it as the direct interposition
of our heavenly Father, who hears the raven's cry and
careth for the sparrow's fall.
Next morning, before the sun was up, we made signs to
the Arabs to carry us on board of the strange ship; but
they could not understand, until Solomon held up three
fingers, to shew its three masts, as there was none like it
in the harbor.  Capt. H ---— n received us kindly, and advised us to abandon our Arab boat, and wait on board of his
ship, until the second of next month, when the steamer
will leave for Jaffa! This generous offer we gladly accepted, and sent for our baggage.  Solomon came back
with the boat, to bid us farewell.  He wept and made the
most affecting signs of grief, that he could not go with us to
Jerusalem! and was scarcely reconciled with our promise
to seek him there.  This strange and sudden deliverance
seems too bright to be reality, and we feel as if we were
in a pleasant dream!  The beautiful barque of Captain
H —-— n is in perfect order, and cleanliness, comfort,
and good taste, are unusually combined.  His Lady, and
their only child, a lovely little girl of three years, are
with him;  also' MIr. S   h,* the supercargo.   The
Consul says, this is the first American merchant vessel
that has ever visited Beyroot! and they have had the surprizing rapid passage of thirty-seven days from New York!
T'he saloon, and state rooims are large, and well furnished,
and the table is supplied with. the best New York stores,
and the daily addition of fr'esh imeat, fowls, oggs, milk,




34              AFFLICTION ON BOARDP,
figs, grapes, peaches, and plumbs, from the shore.  But
this minute narration will weary you, and I hope that I
shlill not again be so long hindered from writing.
Atyg. 18.-When I first came on board, I: was so weak
and ill I could sit up but a little; but now I am rapidly
regaining strength, and enjoy an excellent appetite.  It
is " the time of the first ripe grapes," which are brought
to us from  Lebanon.  I have ventured to eat freely of
them, and they have greatly refreshed nme. We are anchored so far fronl the shore, that we have the sea-breeze,
and do not suffer from the heat, which is very oppressive
in the city.  When I reflect, that if this vessel had been
an ordinary time on her way, I must have perished, T am
filled with grateful surprise, at the wonderful love of God
to his unworthy child.
Aity. 20.-Soon after we came on board, the Captain,
and his lady, and daughter, and Mr.- S.h, went
about fifteen miles up the mountains of Lebanon, to see the
American missionaries, who reside there in summer, at the
village of Arbay.  On the third day of their visit, the
child was taken with dysentery, and died after five day's
illness.  A poor sailor, belonging to the vessel also died,
and was buried on the same d-y.  Their graves are near
that of Lieutenant Dale, whTlo accompanied the United
States' Exploring Expedition to the Dead Sea, and died
here last year, on his return.  Capt. H —  n was also
taken ill, and could not attend the burial, and is still unable to return to the ship. Mr. S —-h, and the first mate,
and the steward, have the same symptoms; and it is a
solemn time on board. We truly sympathize with the afflicted parents, for the child was one of unusual beauty and
promise.
Ang. 21. —Here we mre still floating on the sea, and
waiting for entrance into the promised land; and it is yet
twelve days before the steamer leaves.  Two missionaries
spent the night on board, having returned with Captain
H   — n, who has recovered from his recent attack. They
appear like pious, practical men, and in conversation they
complained of a general declension in living faith, as




VIEW  OF BEYROOT.                 35
the greatest hindrance to their work, in themselves and
others.
Towards evening, as the power of the sun decreases, I
sit upon the upper deck, and look away from the city over
the sea, where the sun sets in the blue' waters.  How
mingled and tender are my emotions, as I stand on this
extreme eastern verge of the Mediterranean, and look
westward its entire length through the Straits of Gibraltar, and onward still, across the Atlantic's billowy waste,
until at length my spirit's eye rests on the green shore of
our own dear land; and then each well remembered name
and place, in thrilling life, comes to my heart, embracing
all ii silent prayer!  Father! preserve, preserve spotless,
unblamable, those names, until HE cOM~E, our long-expected, and the weary shall go home.
As the sun declines, it enlarges, and becomes of the
brightest scarlet hue, and the thin veil-like clouds and sky
deepen from light orange, at the zenith, to the darkest
richest copper near the sea. On the other side of the ship
I see lBeyroot, with its light-colored stone-houses, interspersed with vines and mulberry trees, rising, terrace-like,
from the beach, with here and there a mosque's tall minaret
-a lofty palm-a ruined citadel. Then northward, a range
of Lebanon, towering above the lower clouds, rises abruptly
from the sea, and stretches inlandcl, forming a sublime background for the city.  Its surface is very rocky and irregular, with hills rising one above another, divided by deep
ravines. The general appearance, from this distance, looks
naked and ash-like, with no forest foliage; but in places
the soil is cultivated in terraces, and I see villages of little
huts, surrounded by low mulberry, fig and olive trees, and
vines. The missionaries say, that wherever there is a
spring there is a village, from which the natives drink and
water their flocks. The best fruit and vegetables are
brought from these heights, on donkeys, to the city. But
I am digressing too long from my heart's burden-a pilgrim  by faith to Jerusalem-hindered by the way; but I
hope in God, and trust him still, that he will surely bring
me through. 3My heart runs out in love which I cannot




36                  VYISIT ON SHORE.
speak, to the dear believing ones at home, and all their
loveliness in grace seems increased an hundred-fold by the
weary time and distance, as here I muse and pray.
Aug. 29.-We have been on shore several times, towards
evening; but the heat is very oppressive, and the air is
impure in the city, and I returned to the vessel with increased gratitude unto the Lord for providing us such a
breeze-rocked cradle on the sea.  At the Italian Hotel we
met with Sir Moses Montefiori, on his return from  Jerusalem, who, with his lady, treated us with much kindness,
and gave us information and advice about the route, and
the state of things there. He represented the Jews as in
a state of great wretchedness and poverty, and remarked
that if there are any true hearts in Israel that deserve sympathy and aid, it is surely those who cling, in such destitution and devotion, to the dust of their fathers in Jerusaleni. He said that this is the third visit to them, and that he
intends, if Providence permit to see them again next summer. He seemed much pleased with what he termed the
enthusiasm of Major Noah, of New York, in his late address, and regretted that there was so little reality in the
advance of the Jews in Jerusalem, and that great liberality
is needful among all people for the general good.  He has
a very noble form  and stature, and kind and intelligent
features, and we returned much pleased with the bland
and social manners of this Jewish nobleman.
How many believers in Jesus and the Holy Scriptures
spend their time and money, with dangdr and fatigue, to
visit the classic remains of pagan philosophy, of deified
men and heroes, whose elevation mostly consists in the
greatest number of men conquered! enslaved! butchered!
But how few who humbly seek to worship God, in " the
place of the name of the Lord of Hosts," and offer the
sacrifice of praise and thanksgiving for a Saviour's love at
Bethlehem, at Nazareth and Calvary,-to honor a greater
than C(sar, Socrates, or Cicero-one " who spake as never
man spake!" A visit and eulogy to the sculptured chroniclers of these is highly esteemed, while a pilgrimage to the
shades of Gethsemane  is often regarded by a Christian




REFLECTIONS,                    37
world as enthusiasm  and janatcisqn!  I have learned
something of this prejudice from.remarks of various travellers and dignitaries by the way, respecting former tourists
to Palestine, notwithstanding which, I can testify to a kind
and constant Providence, who has given us favor with all
men. We have not experienced one harsh word, or unkind
act; but hearts have been moved to feel for and assist us,
in different tongues and places. The'young.Frenchman
in Marseilles! The Arab Janisary in Egypt! In our last
voyage, and suffering imprisonment in quarantine, Solomon,
our Jewish friend, served us day and night, with the kindest attention! Also, in the most surprising manner, Capt.
11 —— n of this vessel, rescued us from the greatest extremity! By sickness, we have several times been brought
into immiuent danger; but without a physician, the Lord
has raised us up, and helped us thus far. I, therefore, still
believe that he has a purpose in our journey, though undefined to us, and that he is determined to prove our obedience, and accomplish it.  This persuasion is the more
strengthened, because I know that I have no design of my
own or desire to go, but to submit to Him, and fulfil his
will, not knowing' the things that shall befal merin the end.
Augz. 31. —Another day, and we hope to renew our journey; but difficulties increase in the way of poor and unaccustomed and feeble travellers, as we proceed. Difficulties
of language, acquaintance with the manners and strange
customs of the people, protection, conveyance, and travelling equipage, etc.  Mlost travellers hire a dragoman, or
agent, in Beyroot, to accompany and assist them in these
necessities until they return.  As we are unable to meet
such an expense, and fearful of trusting any but God, we
have been much in prayer respecting the uncertain prospect before us. But this morning, to our great joy, MIr.
S —-h, tue kind supercargo, and our friend Capt. H11 n,
and his lady, unexpectedly decided to leave their ship for
a few days, and take the steamer, and go at the same time
with us to Jerusalem.
Travellers at home will scarcely conceive how great a
privilege their company will be to us here, and we receive
4




38              STEAMER GRAND TURK.
it as a peculiar and direct arrangement of love from God.
How wonderful are all his ways! If their lovely child had
lived, they could not have gone; also, during their visit of
sorrow to Arbay, the missionaries became attached and
interested for them, and sensible of Capt. H's generous
and various donations, they are now assisting him in making
the best arrangements for his short visit to Jerusalemn 
One of their former scholars, an Arab convert of intelligence, who is acquainted in Jerusalebm, resides at Jaffa, as
an agent for his brother, the American (Arab) Consul
there.  On account of his respect and obligations to the
mission, they can command his attention and services, and
hlave, therefore, written a letter for Capt. H  n to him,
desiring him to accompany and assist him until his return.
Sept. 1.-All is bustle and preparation on board; the
steward preparing cake and provisions for the way; the
sail-maker making canvass saddle-bags to carry up the
mountains, etc. The ladies of the mission have just sent
one of their saddles for Mrs. EI    n, as such a thing is
not manufactured in this land, and cannot be obtained in
Jaffa!  They are indispensable to European'women in
ascending the rugged steeps before us, and I have made
inquiry in Beyroot without success.
Sept. 3.-On board the "' Grand Turk," a small English
steamer, that during the last year has commenced carrying
the mail from Egypt to Jaffa, Beyroot, and Smyrna once
a month.  Last evening we embarked with our American
friends, whose kindness has truly endeared them to us;
beside which Capt. H —  n will receive no remuneration
for our long stay with him. This is also a great help from
the Lord, as our unexpected detention would have been
very expensive on shore. We expect to reach Jaffa about
ten o'clock this morning. The fare amounts to eight dollars in the first, and we pay six dollars in the second cabin.
We had mattresses spread down under the awning, on the
quarter-dec]k; several richly dressed Turkish passengers
laid their mats near us; the moon shone brightly all night,
and in our riding clothes, with umbrellas to shade our faces,
we sought a little rest. In the morning the steward brought




JAF]'A-LANDING.                    9
us a scanty and poor breakfast, which seemed a great
change from our late excellent fare.  Soon after an English lady came up from the first cabin, and began to converse with me respecting our near anticipations of landing
in the country of Israel.  She mentioned the difficulty of
ascending the mountains, to which I responded by saying
that I had reason to expect much suffering, as I had no
saddle.  She was surprised at this, and seemed much concerned for me, and immediately said, "It is not possible
for you to proceed without; I have one with my baggage,
which I will lend you, as I intend remaining some months
in Jaffa, and shall have little need of it at present, and you
may keep it, and use its until you return."  What was my
surprise-if a sheet had been let down from heaven to my
aid, as once it was in vision in this vicinity, it would
scarcely have been more marvellous, or more timely, and
helpful to my necessity!  I find that my new friend is the
devoted Mrs. W -, so long an approved missionary in
India, who is on a visit of benevolent inquiry to Palestine.
Again my faith is encouraged, that the Lord accepts my
sacrifice, and will open all my way. Jaffa is in sight;
several Arab boats are coming from shore to meet us, and
I must drop my pencil, expecting soon to set my feet on
this long-expected shore.
JERUSALEM, Sept. 5, 1849.-After a tedious journey of
near four months, we arrived yesterday, about 11 o'clock,
A. M., in this sacred city. In my relation, I will now return to our landing in Jaffa. This little city, is the only
sea-port of Jerusalem. It is built on a small eminence,
rising directly from the beach, which stretches low and
sandy, each side, as far as the eye can reach. From the
sea, its first appearance is somewhat like an immense beehive of small dome-roofed, clay-colored houses, with no
trees, except two or three tall palms, in sight-as its rich
and beautiful gardens are back of the city, on the receding
plains..The surf here is constantly high, and there is no
protectioyn for shipping.'As our long boat approached,
on the top of bounding waves, the boatmen jumped into
the water to their waists, to hold it from dashing against




40                   PAEL STINt E
a projecting shelf, upon which stood a crowd of halfcovered Arabs. We were all soon pulled up by our arms,
and stood at length upon the soil of Palestine!
After pressing our way through men, donllkeys, and
camels, we were directed to the American Consul's, who
received us with kind, yet mute attention. The letter fromn
Arbay was delivered, and a messenger despatched in search
of iMr. M., the educated brother of the Consul, who soon
came and acted as an interpreter, and at once set about
obtaining animals, etc., for our journey.  Meanwhile we
partook of a good Oriental dinner, provided by the Consul, who, with his beautiful young wife, and little son, were
somewhat troubled with handling knives and forks, which
were used on our account.  About three o'clock, our baggage was bound with cords upon the backs of two moles,
and committed to a Inuleteer, who drove them carefully
before him.  Our horses were saddled, and with Mr.
M. before us, in single file, we were soon winding out
through the narrow labyrinthian passages of the city. It
is difficult to convey an idea of these Eastern cities, with
their narrow crooked streets and alleys, and the manner
in which their houses are built and joined, one into another
irregularly.  They have very low doors, but no windows,
in the lower stories, and the houses appear like a rough
continued wall, each side of the'street, which winds every
way to suit their location.  Sometimes thle passages are
over-arched like railroad tunnels, with houses upon them.
They use little wood in building, except for doors and
window casings, and the roofs are of stone and plaster, and
are necessarily arched like a dome.
We slowly crowdled along, by loaded camels, mules, and
donkeys, bearing heavy sacks, and flag baskets, of fruit,
grain, charcoal, and various colored and strangely-dressed
people, all wearing a searlet cap, with a long blue tassel
on the top, and flowing garments. A few wear only a short
loose shirt, but generally they have a full skirt, confined
at the knees, and bound around the waist with enormous
girdles.  Their complexions are usually quite dark, Iblut
their forms and features are often very fine.  As we ctiilie




GARDENS-RAMILAH.                  41
out of Jaffa we passed the gardens, which are watered by
primitive machinery, and contain a variety of fruits and
vegetables-we saw oranges, lemons, dates, figs, pomegranates, grapes, and melons; and the prickly pear, which
is used for hedges, grows here to the height of twenty feet,
and the stalks are sometimes over two feet thick; its large
thick leaves fold heavily and closely over each other, and
are surrounded with orange-colored pears.
As we left the gardens, a wide plain opened before us,
on every side, extending beyond our sight, rich and beautiful, with a slightly undulating surface.  Here and there,
in the distance, were small villages, or clusters of claycolored fragments of walls, but I saw no isolated, or single
dwelling by the way, or fenced divisions of the soil. Here
first I saw large orchards of olives, which at a little distance
appear like old apple trees. The foliage is dense, and the
dark glossy leaf resembles the yellow willowin form, with the
same silvery white on the underside, making their appearance beautiful when stirred by the wind. Our narrow pathlike road, lay between large wheat and barley fields, which
were irregularly joined with ploughed spaces, and turf
land. Here a shepherd was following hundreds of white
sheep; and black goats, feeding together, which was a fine
illustration of our Saviour's parable, (Mat. xxv. 32;) and
there a drove of small spotted cattle were lying down, and
beyond, some camels were browsing from the high branches
of trees I A missionary and his daughter, belonging to
Jerusalem,  a young Turk and some Arab travellers joined
us at Jaffa, and our little caravan of about twenty animals
were making all speed to reach a walled village, called
Ramlah, (the ancient Arimathea,) which is situated halfway to the mountains, before dark.
Just before sunset, our horses, which were the poorest
of the company, began to lag behind the rest, and despite
of every effort to urge them  forward, we were soon left
out of sight. The way in some places was so indistinct,
that I began to fear that we should mistake their track
and be left to the mercy of the Arabs! We saw one on
our right, with a long gun, approaching us, when suddenly
---- "blP "^~" " "'~'b




42                MOONLIWGHT RIDE.
our good friend, Capt. H —— n came scouring back to our
relief, and as he wheeled his horse, upon r"eachiDg us, his
saddle gave way, and he fell to the ground! He was soon,
however, mounted-again, and the Arab passed in silence.
With much difficulty he succeeded in driving our animals
forward, until we reached the rest of the party, who had
kindly waited for us. It was late when we reached the
walls, and passed slowly one by one, into the close dark passages of Ramlah, turning to the right, and the left, and then
forward, until we halted at a door on one side, and entered. into a wide court, surrounded by kitchens, stables,
etc. Here we alighted, and ascended a flight of stone
steps into another court, from which opened large arched
roolms, all of stone. It was an Armenian Convent, where
Mir. M. informs us, they often lodge, but do not feed
travellers, unless they have previous notice, as their native
cooking is so different from Europeans.  A dark turbaned man in loose garments, however, soon came in, and
brought us some coffee without milk, in tiny cups, and a
servant followed with a fine watermelon.  The gentlemen had one room, and the ladies another, with mats and
coarse cushions laid upon the floor round the sides of the
room, where, being much fatigued with our new exercise,
we were glad to lie down and rest.
Before one o'clock the moon was up, and the horses
ready, and we set out towards the mountains; a number
of natives joined us here, having small bells on their mules
and donkeys, and we made quite a picturesque appearance,
one by one, threading our way by moonlight. The country
still continued plain and fertile, and we passed several
threshing floors, with piles of wheat and chaff on the ground,
and Arabs lying asleep, without blanket or pillows. Here
and there were gardens of melons and cucumbers, inclosed
with a few stones piled carelessly round them, and a little
hut, or lodge in the centre. As we advanced, the soil
became stony, and at daylight we reached the lower terrace of the mountains of Judea. In the grey dawn, the
first appearance of these naked heights of rock, rising in
solemn grandeur, so suddenly from  the plain, much ian



MIOUNT ZION-JERUSALEiM                43
pressed me. They proved to be the out-post, and lower
foundations of rock-erabattled Zion.  Their position and
height, seem to defy the wisdom, or tool of man, to chisel
even a pathway, but along the ravine, where the rain
torrents of ages, has worn a rough causeway, there is
room for one animal to climb at once, over the loose stones,
gradually ascending, round and upward, from the base of
one mountain to another, slowly gaining the sacred eminence, supposed to be about 3000 feet above the sea, on
whose rugged platform stands JERUSALEM!
The first two hours we saw no trees, except in the
ravines a few old olives, and in placeC some rough-leaved
plants were clinging to the rocks, many of the mountains
are circled wi-th  natural terraces, upward to their bald
grey summits.  As the sun rose the heat became intense,
and the reflection from the lime stone cliffs was very oppressive. ~As we approached the city, there was more
fertility; here and there we passed a wide valley, covered
with fig trees, pomlegranates, and vines, and on the larger
terraces were vineyards, bending with fine grapes.  Each
little strip of soil, was inclosed with a rude stone wall,
and a smnall tower in the midst with an Arab wateching the
grapes. The appearance of these mountains is unlike any
that I have seen, and to me were awe-inspiring, as if the
(GiEAT rAEn:r ITECT of earth had with design heaped their
naked piles, as invulnerable fortifcations, to the place where
i-Ie has chosen to place his NAME. We suffered much by the
way from  heat, and the great exertion of keepino our
seats, in the rough and precipitous path, as the muleteers
fromn). behind would urge forward our weary animals. After
slowly gaining one summlit afer another, we suddenly found
ourselves on an extended table-like elevation, very rocky,
baut interspersed with olive trees. In the distance, towards
the east, rose -Mount Olivet! and facing it, on the west
side. declined towards its base, the high grey walls,
and domes, of JERUSArLEM!
Our caravan paused in silence: and then a murmnur rose,
Jerusalem,! JernsclneimT    I bad read so much of the sterility of its neighborAlood, and its appearance of desolation,




44               HOTEL-MESHtELLAM.
that my first feelings were those of happy surprise, to see
thrifty olive trees, pomegranates, and figs in its vicinity.
On the north, the foliage at this dry season of the year
is deep green, and dense, and makes a beautiful contrast
as the walls emerge beyond. The singular and unearthlike beauty, of its lone rock sentinelled SIT-UATION, for
a moment surpassed my early and sacred recollections of
Scriptural delineation, while its formidable ancient walls
and towers, its lofty minarets and domes, give it an air
of peculiar solemnity and grandeur!  Several Turkish
soldiers, with polished weapons, bowed a silent welcome,
as we entered the Jaffa Gate. The streets are narrow,
and paved with heavy uneven stone, which are glossy by
long use.  During our ride I felt much concern how we
should obtain comfortable accommodations with our moderate means, as Mr. M. informed us, that the charges
were very high, at the only English hotel in the city. We,
however, concluded to put up with our American friends
during their short stay, in which time we hoped to make
a more favorable arrangement.
After several turnings and windings, and ascents and
descents, under the arched passages, we reached the hotel,
but found only a porter, in a small room adjoining, who
informed us that Mr Meshullam, the proprietor, was residing in Bethelehem  with his family through the sickly
months, and as it is not the season for travellers, the hotel
was closed I From  our long fast, and excessive fatigue,
we were much exhausted, and our perplexity was extreme!
Mr. M., howmever  feeling  his  responsibility  to  the
American gentleman whom he had in charge, commanded
the porter to send a messenger, and inform Mr. Meshullainm, of the number and importance of the travellers who
were waiting, and request his immediate attention. Here
again, we acknowledge the peculiar mercy of the Lord,
for had we arrived unattended by these friends, our peril
and suffering must have been great, and we should not
have met with our kind host. In about three hours he
arrived, with his Greek cook, waiters, etc.  The rooms
(which are ancient dome-covered apartments, with plas



F IRRST E' RES. S15
toeed w-alls and floors,) were opened, and speedily put in
neat order, and at four o'clock we sat down to dinner.
We had good soup, a leg of roast mutton, potatoes, and
tomatoes, (which Mr. ieshullam has recently succeeded in
cultivating here,) excellent bread, some delicious grapes,
and figs, freshly gathered) and wine from the vineyards
of BETHLEHE3!
Sept. 8. —We have just parted with our kind friends,
with emotions of the most sincere gratitude and esteem, and
leave sent back letters by them to our distant and bJeloved
at hoine. EWe have found an unexpected friend in our host;
he is a converted Jew, a gentleman of kind and affable manners, and treats us with much attention.  HIe has made us
a most generous and favorable offer of residing in his
family, while they remain in Bethlehem, and afterwards
at the hotel, until we leave Palestine; he also engages to
defray all expenses, and conduct us to the Jordan, Hebron,
and the few localities that we are bound in Spirit to visit;
to permit one of his sons to be our interpreter, and to
provide donkeys and a guide for us to ride out twice a
week beside, and all this at a most reasonable charge. We
would humbly recognize the hand of the Lord, in thus
providing for our necessities, removing the formidable
local obstacles in our way, and opening so favorable an opportunity in the society of a pious, inintelligent and old
resident, for prosecuting the important inquiries for which
we calie.
Early this morning, we made our first egress from the
walls on donkeys, accompanied by Ahmud, an Arab servant.  We went out the Damascus Gate, on the north, and
followed round the walls eastward, over a rough, pathlike road, worn in places through the rocks, by the long
tread of ages. After passing the north-eastern angle of the
walls, we entered the upper valley of the Kidron, which
runs from the north, narrowing and deepening towards
the south.  In every direction the rocks and hills are
variegated with clusters of olive trees and cultivated spots,
-with here and there a ruined tower, a broken wall, the
fragments.of a tomb, a cave, tand a:ry and desertel- fountain,




46                BMOUNT OLIVET.
and every where the foot-prints of a buried race. On the
east, between the walls and the valley, reaching to its
declivity, are many rough slabs and stones, and plastered
monuments, to mark the place of the innumerable dead. As
we proceeded, the walls stood high and grey on our right,
the valley declined on our left and beyond it, on the east
rose the hallowed Mount of Olivet. Language cannot
recall the deep and tender emotions of my soul, when first
I gazed in near vicinity upon its rugged height. Its lone
and frowning cliffs, still shaded here and there by the
olive, the fig, and the pomegranate tree, brought back so
vividly " THIE MAN OF SORIROWS,Y" who so often sought to
weep and pray among its sheltering solitudes.
When we had advanced about half-way along this eastern
wall of the city, we came to St. Stephen's Gate, and followed the road that leads from it down into the valley.
The track is worn to a glassy smoothness over the shelving
rocks, and from the relative position of the ground and
the adjacent scenes, it is probably the same that Jesus
ascended on the night of his betrayal! As we descended
we saw in the bottom of the vale, across the brook Kidron,
a cluster of dark old olives, enclosed by a white plastered
wall, which we knew without an interpreter to be Gethsemanef  There are other trees of the same appearance
scattered round, some nearer the dry stony channel of the
brook, and others under the steep rocky acclivity of the
Mount. Here I began to realize a certainty of being hear
the deep shelter of rocks and trees, where our suffering
Lord once prostrated himself upon the ground, in that
last dark night of sorrow i If there is any spot of earth
that retains the foot-marks of Jesus, it is here I HTere are
the time-furrowed trunks of those hoary trees, the bare
primeval rocks, unchiselled and unmoved by man, the
native stony soil,  the dry and pebbly bed of Kidron, and
the natural precipitous ascent of Olivet beyond, with its
difficult pathway, deep worn among the rocks by the long
use of climbing feet.
Here in the deep shade of the valley we paused awhile,
as the sun was rising above the highest point of Olivet,




M10 UNT ZI:ON.                  47
just over us, in the very place where we soon expect to see
the rising glory of the Sun of Righteousness. (Zech. xiv.
4. We then followed the circuitous path at our left, which
winds up to the summit, and halted in the shade of the
Church of the Ascension, which occupies this interesting
site.  As we looked down, Jerusalem  was spread out as a
map before us. Just opposite stood the carved portals of the
closed and silent gate, and within, upon the Temple ruins,
rose the high grey dome of the  Mosque of Omar; a numbor of other Turkish mosques and minarets, the Church of
the Sepulchre, several convents, old citadels, towers, and
dome-roofedl houses, all of stone, rise one above another
to the western wall. As we returned by another path, the
view from a lower point below the church was more distinct and perfect, where the disciples might have easily
referred to the " stones" of the buildings, and where our
rejected Saviour could literally weep " ovEns" Jerusalem,
and rehearse the prophetic details of Matthew xxiv. and
xxv.
Acpt. 10O.-Mr. Meshullam  has gone to Bethlehem to
make arrangements for us to join him there; meanwhile,
two of his sons and a servant remain, with whom we are
making little excursions about the city.  We have just
returned from Mount Zion, whose summit is outside; but
near the walls, on their south-west extremity, an old pile
of buildings, in possession of the Turks, covers the ancient
site of David's palace and tomb.  There is a considerable
level on the summit arolud, where are many tombs, new
and old, also a neat enclosure, built by American.s, which
is used as a cemetery for European strangers. The soil is
light and stony, and seemns comnpo-;ed of dust and ruins.
The sides of the Molunt towalrds the south and east are
terraced and occupied with spots of cultivation and scattered olives, and the wider slopes are " ploughed as a field."
(Micah. iii.) We saw squashes and cauliflowers growing,
although this is the dry season, when little verdure is seen.
A  tender solemnity oppressed my spirit, and I could
scarcely realize that this is "' MOUNT Zro,"~ which was
once the scene of such magnlificence and power; where




4 9          CIHURCH OF THIE SEPULCHRE.
David, the sweet singer of Israel, first breathed  those
divine inspirations of prayer and song, which for so many
centuries have been a balm  and solace to the Church of
God. All is lone and silent now, only as an occasional Arab
with his heavy laden donkey winds along the terraced declivity, or some peasant woman, with baskets of grapes
and figs upon their heads, or skins of water fronl Siloam's
fountain far below; climb slowly to the gate.  In the distance, across the valley, towards Bethlehem, a train of
camels were noiselessly bearing along their heavy burdens,
with their drivers slowly following, and here and there
were shepherds with their flocks of sheep and goats upon.
the rocky hills.
Sep%  11l.-This morning we we nt early to the Churcb.
of the Sepulchre, which is interesting as the oldest building in the city, and is supposed to have been built by the
mother of Constantine, in the proudest era of early nominal Christianity.  The front is much defaced, but its
heavy portals and fretted casements show something  of its
early splendor.  A miniature marble temple, of beautiful
proportions and chaste design, stands upon the pavement;,
directly under the dome, and is called  The Sepllche!e!
Several' immense candle-sticks of gold and of silver, with
wax candles, stand near its door, and hanging lamps above
are always burning; the church is decorated with mlany
paintinigs, gilt angels, sainted figures, and nameless relies
and  appendages of outward worship.  The Latin and
G-reek church are united in its possession.  A deep sadness oppressed me, as I came out and sat down at the end
of the large open court before it to sketch the front, which
is the only ancient part that I could identify, as the inside is entirely covered with later designs; but a crowd
of poor beggars pressed so upon me, that I was obliged
to leave it unfinished.
The darkness and silence of the streets increases the
awe that broocls over these sombre walls at night, in this
city without wheels.  This stillness continues till midnight,
whein I ani oftenr a.wa;lked by a sullen jar that sounds
like distant thunder, and grieve to think of the weakness,




BETHLEHEM.                   49
suffering, and toil which occasions it. It is the sound of
countless rude mill-stones, which are here mostly turned
by women, who nightly commence to grind about this
time, and continue till morning; the labor is so heavy,
that it is too great for their weak frames to endure in the
heat of the day. I have made one effort, and could
scarcely move one of their smallest stones. The process
is so slow, that it generally takes a woman an hour for
each member of her family!
BETHLEHEM, Sept. 13.-Yesterday, with Mrs. Meshullam (who kindly came in to accompany us,) and her sons
and two servants, we set out about three o'clock for this
place: some on horses, and some on donkeys, and a camel
going before with mattresses, furniture, and baggage for
us. We left the Jaffa Gate, and descended into the deep
valley of Hinnom, and crossed over to the ascent beyond,
and opposite to Mount Zion. The road then lay in a
southerly direction across a level cultivated plain. About
half-way, we passed the Convent of Elijah, which is surrounded by a dense grove of flourishing olives; and nearer
to Bethlehem on our right, in a very rocky situation, rose a
little stone chapel and dome, recently erected by a rich
Israelite, (Sir 31. M.,) over the site of Rachel's tomb,
whither the Jews from the city sometimes come to worship.
As we descended a rough path, the village of Bethlehem,
with its fine convent walls, appeared on a distant hill. The
view was beautiful and picturesque; the deep valley
before Bethlehem is terraced, and covered with vines,
pomegranate, and fig trees, and deep groves of olives are
scattered on receding hills, with two other smaller villages
nestled among their foliage. As we ascended the steep
rocky sides of the hill, I thought of MARY, who once
i" went up," to " the city of David," over the same toilsome
way! As we passed we saw Arab women and children
gathering fruit, and men driving loaded camels and donkeys.
At length we entered the narrow passages, between
small stone houses built in the side of the hill; in some
they were grinding, in some weaving coarse cloth and in




50             WMIESHULLAM'S HOUSE,
others makisog relics, weapons, etc., as they are mostly
here employed in mechanical trades. We stopped at a
low door, and stooping, entered a small court, and ascended
a flight of rude time-worn steps, to the house of Meshullam.
The situation is high, and a large arched window from its
principal room, looks out over the deep valley below, presenting a scene of singular beauty; a large oaken table
stands in the centre, a divan, chairs, and camp stools, neat
white curtains, clean mats, boxes, bags and jars, containing flour, meal, fruits, oil, and honey, are arranged in the
deep niches of the walls, being the productions of his farm
-altogether, an unusual mixture of comfort and Oriental
simplicity.
At tea, his third son, Petro, returned thanks, in a humble
and solemn manner. We had excellent bread and honey,
boiled rice, and goats' milk and tea.  Two Arab women
took a lantern, and led me into the court, and opened
another door; here were horses and donkeys tied and feeding; but Ahmud hallooing pushed them aside for us to pass
by to a flight of steps, which led to alittle court or terrace
above, from which opened my room; a little garden was
on one side, and a vine with purple grapes hung over the
door, and one window, with pots of bergamot, looking
towards the valley. This was an addition recently built,
which the women told me had never before been occupied;
a clean mat had been spread upon the plastered floor, then
a mattress, a stool, a tin pan, and a measure of water upon
the deep sill of the window, and a bottle of water from the
well-spring of Bethlehem.  I felt most unworthy of
"room" in such a comfortable "'inn," when my blessed
Master was laid in a manger, like those I passed below.
aept. 14. —Last evening, near sunset, we visited the
Convent, where the Latin, Armenian, and Greek Christians
have each their apartments. The priests treated us very
civilly, and showed the reputed place of the birth and manger
of our blessed Saviour. It is situated in a dark vault beneath the church, where lamps are- always burning. Notwithstanding the uncertainty that may rest on its definite
locality, a peculiar awe and tenderness of soul affected me.




CHARACTER AND POSITION.              51
The Convent is a fine stone building, with several courts
and corridors, and many comfortable chambers, a garden,
and every convenience necessary for comfort and retirement. From the fiat roof we had a fine view of the
interesting country around Bethlehem.  A  bare gray
mountain, shaped like a pyramid, (where is the cave of
Adullam, the stronghold of David,) rises a few miles distant; in another direction, extends in nearer vicinity, " the
Shepherd's Plain," and every where the rocky hills, and
deep vallies, spotted with olive trees. Many of the inhabitants here have fine forms, good features,, and fairer complexions than the common Arabs; but their apparel is
simple and poor. They are mostly Latin and Greek Christians, and claim to be descendants of the Crusaders.
Sept. 1B.-We are becoming much pleased with our kind
host, and his interesting family. He seems to be an
Israelite indeed. He is about fifty years of age; very
intelligent and energetic, and his whole heart and hope is
in the good of his poor brethren, and the restoration of
Zion. His recent experiment in cultivation is the first,
that has succeeded in this land by a Christian Jew, since
the dispersion i He has a hired house here, that he occupies during the sickly months; but in the season of travellers, he is much engaged in Jerusalem.  The heat is such,
that we improve the morning or evening to ride, and yesterday, about three o'clock, Meshullam accompanied us
with two of his children, to see his little farm. We first
passed down the rough precipitous track, which leads from
the mountain site of Bethlehem, (south-westward,) where
clustering vines, and figs, and olives, spring from the rockcovered surface, across a narrow vale, and another hillside
of broken ledges, and smooth worn limestone, into the
valley of the Spring. Nothing can exceed the barrenness,
of the rocky heights that rose each side, as our path wound
up the narrow ravine, with the hot flint, rattling beneath
our donkey's feet.
All at once, in a turn of the opening vista, a spot of the
most living green, presented itself to our weary eyes, and
soon after we came to the irrigated flats. Thrifty fig trees




52:MESHULLAM S FARM.
bending with fruit, were growing among the cliffs each
side. Pomegranates, full of their scarlet apples were here
and there on the terraces; and an orchard of peach trees
were breaking beneath their ripening load, some were two
years from the stone; also pear trees, of full size, which
Mr. M. planted four years since; lemons, olives, and vines.
Here were fields of tomatoes, ripe and ripening, and the
leaves as green as with us in June; they have now been
bearing six weeks, and will continue till November.  We
saw cauliflowers, beets, egg-plants, beans, onions, etc.
There were two patches of Indian corn, of a small kind,
just gathered; and he has wheat fields and a vineyard, further up the valley, beyond the Pools of Solomon. He has
gathered out the stones, and made walls, enclosing the
choicest part. The entire surface is irrigated by narrow
channels round square beds, and I realized as never before,
the beauty of the Scriptural comparison, " of a well
watered garden," Isa. lviii. 11.
At length we reached the fountain, deep and cool, of the
best water, which springs from the rock near the foot, of
the mountains at one side; while the ancient and well preserved aqueduct from the Pools, runs along near the summit, many feet above. I filled a bottle from the Spring,
for the distant and loved, as I believe it is the samo that the
Son of Jesse, the Bethlehemite, so loved, in his youth, as
there is no other such fountain or well near Bethlehem.
Here I plucked, and ate, fresh figs, peaches, etc., in one of
the vallies of Israel, reared by a CHRISTIAN ISRAELITE!
He said, "If a few brethren of like precious faith, would
come and unite with me to till this desolate land, and do
good to Israel, it would be the happiest day of my life;"
adding, "' that there was sufficient land in the valley to support ten families, in love and happiness, if they were
united to serve God!"  We returned at sunset, greatly
pleased with this specimen of the fertility of this deserted
land.
Sept. 17. —Yesterday, after dinner, we rode out to see
the Pools of Solomon, once called "  Heshbon." Our course
led over vallies and hills, covered with rocks, a perfect




POOLS OF SOLOMON:                53
surface of crags; the path (for I cannot call it a road) is
worn through beds of rock, to a glassy smoothness, which,
as no wheels have ever passed, conveys an idea of great
antiquity. Hills, bald and grey, and their eternal garniture
of rocks, rise every where, summits of Zion's lower battlements, upheaving to the sky. These solemn, lone, and
silent sentinels, greatly affect my soul, and the expression,'"MY MOUNTAINS," by Jehovah, so oft repeated in the
prophets, seem echoing among their solitudes. At length
we came to the valley of the Pools, and the dark old walls
of "Solomon's Castle," (Bath-rabbim) standing beside them.
They are about forty feet high, and inclose a considerable
square. There has been a tower at each corner, but they
are fallen, and the inside is half filled with ruins. There
is but one entrance, a low well secured door
A few yards beyond, is the first Pool; which is a deep
reservoir, an elongated square, hewn out of the rock on
one side and end, and completed with immense stones,
covered with a cement, or plaster, which, though broken
in places, continues, smooth and hard. A large fountain,
near the door of the castle, is conducted into it under the
ground. This upper Pool is nearly half full of water, at
this dry season, when there has been no rain for the last
five months. The water is very clear, though as it is never
cleaned out, there are long green weeds growing at the bottom. A few rods below,-in the descending bottom of the
vale, is the second, very similar, with a little water; and still
gently descending, a little further is the third and last.This is empty, and I had a fine view of the interior, as my
quiet donkey stood upon its brink.  Terraces are cut in
the sides, and a stair-case descends to the bottom, so the
water could have been reached at any depth.  The plaster
in this is almost entire, of a lead color, beautiful and
smooth, and still strangely defies the burning sun of this
summer's sky, and the flooding rains of its winter!Meshullam informed me, that the Pools are also fed from
wells, some miles distant among the hills, and their subterranean passage among the rocks is still preserved!
The aqueduct, leading from them through Bethlehem to




54              SOLOMION'S AQUEDUCT.
Jerusalem, commences here, and winds along the side of
the hill, above the valley, that rapidly deepens below the
Pools.  Its construction is most peculiar: a hollow tube,
resembling our brown stone-ware, is laid a few inches beneath the surface of the ground, and a rude pavement of
regular unhewn stone placed above.  The stones are about
three feet long, and half the width, and laid crossways, in
a solid and close manner, over its entire course. Nothing
which I have seen here, has so impressed me with a sense
of the early wisdom and power of Israel, as these true
remains of the Aqueduct and Pools of Solomon I As we
returned, we followed the narrow path beside the Aqueduct,
which winds alone the dizzy verge of the hills above the
cultivated vale, which we had visited before. It lies threefourths of a mile below the Pools, and its loveliness was
enhanced by the deep shade of the mountains, as we looked
down from such a height upon its shadowy green.  Here
and there a stone has been removed, and a small aperture
broken, by the Arabs, to water their flocks; but the water
flows on, without serious obstruction, until it reaches Bethlehem, and is the chief supply of the village.:Beyond this
point it is broken, and fails before reaching Jerusalem.
sept. 19.-Our friend has been ill for some days, and
MIrs. M. is much afflicted on his account.  Two of the
children are unwell, and her health is delicate, and I have
had an opportunity of sympathising with them in this hour
of trial.  Their isolated position, among uncivilized neighbors, with their young children, makes their case truly
affecting.
Sept. 20. —M. is still much indisposed, though somewhat relieved.  Hle converses freely with us of his early
life, religious experience, and, present peculiar position, and
our interest and confidence in him is steadily increasing.
Two Germans, who had for two years been residing in
Jerusalem, seeking an opportunity to occupy themselves
in this land, have visited Mr. NI. several times, since our
stay in Bethlehem. They are anxious to enter his employ,
that they may profit by his experience, which has proved so
slaccessful in his agricultural experiment in Artos for the




AND HEIBRONO.                   5 
last four or five years. His difficulties have been formidable, on account of want of suitable tools and seeds, and
acquaintance with the various alterations of season, wet
and dry, and the practical applications of modern tillage,
with unaccustomed native help. These obstacles, however, by his perseverance and energy, with the Divine
blessing, are rapidly disappearing. These Europeans are
so greatly encouraged by his example, that they are
nzaking propositions to labor for him at Artos, without
wages, that they may become initiated in so interesting
and promising an occupation. To such terms he will not
consent; but has generously offered them a share in the
produce of the valley, and engaged one of them to commence labor the present autumn.
Sept. 24.-We waited some days, in hope that M. would
sufficiently recover to accompany us, as he intended, on our
journey to Hebron; but he remained too much indisposed.
Some difficulties were in our way, and he felt much concerned to make the best arrangement for us. As it is now
very sickly in Jerusalem, his eldest son, Elijah, is confined
to the English Dispensary, where he has been very useful
for some years. James, the second son, is just returned
from school in London, and is not acquainted with the
Arabic language, so that Petro, a lad of fourteen years, is
our interpreter. Ahmud, an unaccustomed Arab, has been
once there, and professed to know the way. There is but
one family in Hebron who are accustomed to lodge
strangers, and Ahmud knew nothing of their whereabouts.
But notwithstanding the peril and uncertainty that threat.
ened us, we set out on the 21st inst., about two o'clock in
the afternoon.
Hebrohi is the most ancient city remaining upon the
earth, situated in the plain of Mamre, where Abraham
dwelt, and where is still the Cave of Machpelah, where he
and his family are buried. Ahmud was well supplied by
our kind hostess with cooked provisions, coffee, wine, etc.,
and several blankets to spread upon the ground, if we
should find no lodgings. Petro was delighted with the
privilege of going, as- he had never seen the spot so




5 0                    VINEYARDS.
revered by every true Israelite. Soon after leaving the
village, I perceived that Ahmud's wide leathern girdle was
adorned with two heavy pistols, which, without powder or
ball, he had borrowed for the occasion, as he was afraid of
hostile Arabs by the way, and wished to make some show
of importance.
Our way led by the Pools, and thence over a succession
of bare and rocky hills. We passed a valley where was
an old fig tree, some herbage, and three wells, connected
by subterranean channels with the Pools.  The rough
mountain distance of almost entire rocks which had thus
been penetrated, reminded us again of the wisdom and
power which God gave to Solomon. We cannot easily
recckon by miles, for distance is still noted here by hours'
and days' journeys. About five o'clock Ahmud began to
fear that we should not reach the city before dark, and
proposed that we should stop for the night at a small Arab
village on a neighboring hill. I knew that this was his
lack of courage, (as he was accustomed to see travellers
well armed and attended in excursions through unfreqented parts of the country,) and that such a course would
not be tolerable or safe. I replied, that our errand was
important, and that we must by all means sleep in Hebron,
and that he might hasten the animals, which, after some
hesitation, he pressed forward at their utmost speed. A
species of dwarf oak brushwood grew here and there
among the rocks, and we passed a number of places where
the Arabs were cutting and burning it into charcoal; but
we saw no habitations, and the road seemed very desolate,
as we met only an occasional Arab with his gun, and once
a few camels, with their drivers, carrying grain.
As we approached Hebron, vegetation increased among
the rocks, a few olive trees were upon the hills, and
ploughed fields here and there in the vallies.  Before
sunset our road descended into a wide valley between high,
rough walls, with a layer of dry thorns closely piled on
their tops. Here, thus enclosed, were extensive vineyards
bending with the finest grapes in the world; and pomegranates, figs, citrons, large quinces, and melons in a flourish



EXTRE,MITY-RELIEv.                57
ing state; also we saw cultivated fields, with wells and
fountains, and large flocks of sheep, and goats, and one
drove of small-sized but well fed cattle. As the distance
lengthened, and the sun was rapidly declining, I became very
weary with our rapid ride and the quick gallop of my donkey
steed;. but my mind was more pressed with a solemn looking
to God for help and guidance in our present extremity.
To fail of reaching human thresholds before the darkness
came on, would have been perilous; but still more to
reach them, and not obtain a shelter, and be obliged to
pass the night in the midnight of the dark passages, exposed to vermin, dogs, and the more hungry and designing
outlaws.
At length, a little after sunset, we entered groves of very
large olives, and in a picturesque valley between several
hills, we found the dusky, irregular walls of Hebron.
These partly consist of ruins, ancient buildings, and other
more recent Turkish additions. The twilight was deepening under the old archways, and numbers of Arabs,
men and boys, began to follow and press upon us, curious
to see and watch our movements. Ahmud and Petro were
both much troubled, and made fruitless inquiries for the
hospitable Jew. It grew still darker, as Ahmud halted
under an arch and gave his bridle to Petro, and was about,
leaving to seek a lodging for us among the Arabs; I
thought of Abraham's servant (Genesis xxiv. 12;) and at
this moment of desperate need, I cried to the same G0od,
and turning to look back on account of a noise behind
us, I saw standing at a little distance, beside a low door,
a tall young man in Jewish costume. He had a fair and
intelligent countenance, and I felt a strong impression to
seek his aid, and urged Ahmud to go and'inquire of him
To this he was strangely opposed, as if a bewildered fear
possessed him; but, after many earnest gestures and entreaties from Petro, he assented. The young man conversed with him awhile, looking earnestly at us, and then
both disappeared in the door that closed behind them. We
waited a long time in trembling suspense; when they returned, Ahmud was laughing for jcry, and criedc out'to me,




58            JEWISH QUARTER —LODGINGS.
Ti-ebe 1 Ti-ebe!" which is the Arabic for good! good!'"We then dismounted, and followed through the door into a
very narrow passage that wound about through many walls
and doorways. We saw many Jews, old and young, in
small cells and half subterranean rooms, who gazed at us
with seeming surprise, and some bowed as we passed by
them.
It had been a hot day, and the confined air in their close
neighborhood was very impure. At length, however, we
ascended a flight of broken stone-steps, and I was much
relieved to leave the atmosphere below. Here our mute
attendant led us into a pleasant room, opening into the air,
and furnished with carpets and divans, where was seated
his father, a venerable man with a white beard, and also
his wife and children. They saluted us kindly, and expressed much regret that we could not converse; but I soon
ascertained that they were the same family of whom
Meshullam had spoken, and the only one who receive
strangers! I was much affected at this manifest token of
the constant aid and presence of the Lord. This family
were formerly from Austria, and are of fairer complexion
than is usual here, and are of good stature. Several others
came in to see us, and I was much pleased with their
graceful manners and costume. The women were gentle,
and fine-looking.  They informed me that there are four
hundred Jews in Hebron, that they are very poor, and
greatly oppressed, and often beaten by the Mussulmen.
We were then shown a very comfortable room for our
accommodation.  There were two windows opening into
an orchard of olives; the walls were very old and low,
terminating in a small dome above, and whitewashed clean
and white. The stone floor was carpeted, and wide sacks
of wool, two feet high, with clean white covers, were placed
on all sides of the room, with many pillows of the same.
These are a kind of divan, used alike for seats and beds.
A lamp was suspended from the ceiling; it was a small
glass bowl filled with olive oil, with a floating wick, and
burned well all night. Ahmud made us some coffee, and
brought in his stores, and we had supper on a low stool,




SOLEMN EXEROISES.                59
the size of a large waiter, in Oriental style.  They brought
in some neat calico quilts, and we conversed a little, through
Petro, respecting the hope of Israel. Ahmud was much
pleased with the permission to occupy. a, sack in one end
of the room, and, with his outer garment wrapped closely
around his face, soon forgot his late trials by the way.
Poor Petro was so exhausted that he refused to eat, and
also fell fast asleep, notwithstanding the numerous fleas
and bugs that now issued from the clean-looking sacks,
which, with musquitoes, proved truly distressing.
I cannot easily convey, an idea of the solemn exercises
of my soul through the silent watches of that night. The
old sepulchral walls over my head, the window looking
toward the Mount, above " the Cave," the glistening moonbeams clothing all in white, and thought's quick retrospect,
retracing back through David's typical reign in Hebron,
and still back, unweaving all the dim prophetic history of
Namre's plain, till one, "a stranger and sojourner," " removed his tent and came and dwelt in the plains of AMamre,
which is Hebron, and built there an altar unto the Lord."
And then " THE PROMISEr" on that altar given-a presence
filled me, and I realized that God was there;-the same,
the faithful, true, and HOLY ONE, who first called Abraham, and sware unto him, in this place, to give to him
and to his seed this land, from Egypt's river to Euphrates,
for his inheritance, eternally and sure, and that " ALL the
nations of the earth shall be blessed in him;" and as I
prayed, I felt it was the same One Spirit that compelled
our pilgrim feet to come from the far-off land of the setting sun, to worship at his forsaken altar here; I saw that
his time to favor Zion is come, and that he will now set
his hand a second time, to recover Israel; for he has
"visited the Gentiles, to take out of them a people for his
name," " as it is written, after this I will return, and WILL
BUILD AGAIN the tabernacle of David, which Is fallen
down, and I will build again the ruins thereof, and I will
set it up that the residue of men might seek after the
Lord, and all the Gentiles upon whom my name is called."
While I realized this truth, and the certain and speedy




60              CAVE OF MACHPELAH.
accomplishment of the WORDS of God were written upon
my heart, with a new and LIVING POWER, a sudden awe
oppressed me, as if a cloud had filled the room; and then
the low arched door seemed to unclose, and a reverend
Sire of noble form and snowy beard, with Sarah's shade,
his beautiful and loved, came in; and following, Isaac and
Rebecca came; and last, came one that halted on his staff,
(HE that prevailed with God,) with Leah and his Rachel
at his side! and as they paused, and seemed to look on
Ishmael's and Isaac's seed, and turned to us —a solemn,
loving reverence, paralyzed my soul, in waiting silence;
moveless my eyes were fixed, and then the sense of words
breathed soft and low, came to my spirit's ear, " Thrice
welcome, children' of another fold, thrice welcome home!"
and then in spiritual communion, I drank the sense of
their rejoicing at the glory now soon to be fulfilled! But
was this all a dream? Are there no sleepers in Machpelah's Cave? Will they not rise again, and soon walk forth
in the sweet glory of eternal youth, when their now desert
land " shall blossom as the rose," and become "like the
garden of the Lord?"
The morning came, and Ahmud was soon ready with
our coffee, etc., and we walked out with one of the sons
of this family to see the city. The buildings are partially
divided into two parts, one rising on the sides of the hill,
where is the Cave of Machpelah, over which now stands a
Turkish mosque, and the other part on the acclivity nearly
opposite. In the level between is sunk a deep reservoir,
which is filled in the rainy season, and supplies the inhabitants through most of the summer with water for common
use; but their best water is brought in. goat:skins from
springs outside the town. We walked up a considerable
ascent to the door of the mosque, which was guarded by
several Turkish soldiers, as no Christian or Jew is permitted to enter. Notwithstanding the Jewish lad was
protected by our company, the Arabs would scarcely let
him pass without insult. We then followed a circuitous
path, and climbed the steep hill above the mosque. After
we emerged from the ruinous dwellings, the soil was cul



BAZAARS.                    61
tivated, and a few olive trees were growing on the
summit.
This city is the oldest of which we have any record;
and we have no account of its having ever been entirely
destroyed, so that there is no doubt respecting the true
location of the tomib. As we stood on the summit, and
overlooked the spot where lies Abraham and his family,
the dense groves of old olives, and the dusky broken walls
and ruins, a tender reverence filled my mind for the place
of the- repose of one who was called THE FRIEND OF oODF
and who. gave his only son a satcrifice in proof of his
LOVE! z We then descended by another way, and passed
through the bazaars. Here the narrow streets were mostly
arched above, and on benches and stalls, on each side, were
exposed for sale grain, fruit, fresh mutton, chickens,
pigeons, eggs, etc. In the dim light through the narrow
passages, loaded camels, mules, donkeys, and horses
and their riders, in single file, were pressing slowly
along, while those on foot were often obliged to lean against
the stalls to avoid their trampling feet, being always advised'by the careful halloo of the, drivers. Sometimes
their burdens were so enormous, as almost to obstruct the
way, consisting of sacks of wool and charcoal, grain and
lentiles, faggots of brushwood, and large baskets (suspended
on each side of the animals,) of grapes, figs, pomegranates,
melons, etc. There are also recesses -in the walls, some
ten feet square, in which are arranged many kinds of
merchandise, dry goods, and groceries; and the seller,
sitting in the midst, easily reaching all his goods to accommodate a customer standing in the street before him. The
bazaars are similar in Beyroot, Jaffa, and Jerusalem. I
purchased aboutfour pounds of their large delicious grapes
for ten paras, (one cent,) from which I selected a cluster,
which, with a bottle of wine from our Jewish hostess, I
preserved as a token from this place.
At ten o'clock we took our donkeys, and proceeded
homeward by another route, that we might see an ancient
oak, situated a little way out of the town, in a fruitful
vineyard, now revered and celebrated as THE OAK under
6




6~2                ABRAHtAM1S OAK.
which was Abraham's tent, when the Lord visited himn
When we reached it, I was surprised to find such a tree
in this land, so destitute of forest trees, and I am assured
that there is none like it in Palestine.  It is very large
at the base, and its trunk is wreathed and parted in four
large divisions, spreading its dense foliage over a wide
circle.  The bark is rough and grey, and has the most
time-worn appearance of any living substance that I ever
saw. At noon it was ninety paces round its shadow; the
leaves are very small and glossy, and appear like a species
of the live oak; it is covered with beautiful acorns, with
rough moss-like shells; its height is not very great, compared with its trunk and spreading boughs.  Although
the day was extremely hot, a cloak was necessary in the
cool breeze under its shade. Here we had dinner, and
fresh grapes from the vines, and excellent water from its
ancient well.  A  living fountain or well, in September,
indicates the location of ancient dwellings, as the modern
possessors of this land dig no wells, and make no improvements. We know that the oak lives centuries, and
the great scarcity of them  here, which, with the vicinity
of the tomb, at least justifies the thought, that if this is not
the same tree mentioned by Josephus, it may be a seedling in its neighborhood.
As we returned I noticed several ruins, which were
doubtless of Jewish origin. In one place immense stones
were closely cemented in extensive walls and broken
towers. In a beautiful but desolate valley there were
several doors hewn in the solid rock, and near them were
prostrate pillars, broken and worn. In another place were
the remains of a house and an extensive court, and from
among its large polished stones, which had fallen over it,
issued a large fountain, where some Arab women were
filling their goat-skins, and lading their donkeys, to carry
to some of their mud-walled villages. We were faint
and weary before we reached the Pools; and as we descended from the barren burning heights, and my eye
rested on the deep blue reflected from the sky above upon
their rippled surface, IT realized the beauty of the metta



SOLOMON S CASTL'tS                63
phor of Solomon, (Song vii. 4.) ]Here we rested an houi,
Ahmud made coffee, and we took a lunch in the Castle,
seated on one of the ruined staircases that once led to
each tower. There are still some low arched rooms re 
lnaiing, (probably stables,) terraces, eto   Une fig-tree
grew amid the ruins, and some Arab families reside here,
who feed Meshullam's sheep and cattle, and watch his fields
in this vicinity.  While we sat there, several with their
long guns, came in and saluted us; and a number of cattle
and donkeys walked tamely in and out.  These belonged
to a child of Israel, and these servants were connected
with his laboring household, and his efforts and success in
such an interesting location, seemed, as I wept with the deep
thoughts that pressed me, like the slender plant of restoration coming nup among these ruins of Israelts former
glory.  Our animals being refreshed by the shade of the
walls, and the water of the fountain, we proceeded, and
slowly followed the aqueduct towards Bethlelienl.  Again
we looked down upon the Eden Valley of the Spring, as
the sinking sun was gleaming aslant between the mnountains, upon its living green. The lights and shades upon
its varied foliage enhanced its loveliness, and as it faded
from my sight, I said, "Adieu! fair bud of promise, until
we shall return, and all these desert hills'shall blossom as
the rose!'"  We reached Bethlehem at sunset, where our
kind friends received us with joy at our safe return, and
with full hearts we returned thanks to God for his preserving love.
JERUSALEM, Sept. 26.-This is the 10th day of the 7th
month, Jewish time-a day long to be revered by this poor
heart of mine. We left Bethlehem yesterday, after dinner,
with Mrs. M. and servants, to open the hotel. On our way,
we again passed Rachel's solitary tomb, many camels and
donkeys, returning from the city, and large flocks of goats,
with a few sheep among them.  At an old well near the
road shepherds were drawing water, and their flocks were
eagerly crowding round a stone trough to drink.
Evening. —This afternoon we visited seven synagogues,
in which the Jews have been all day mourning. Each




64              VISIT TO THE JORDAN.
house was filled with men and boys, and the women were
sitting on the stairs, windows,` and door sills.  The males
had their heads covered, with a white worsted scarf, bordered with blue, and were chanting piteously, and moaning
aloud, reading an entire volume of prayers, and ejaculatory complaints together, from  sunrise till evening.The faces of the women were exposed; but their persons
were entirely wrapped in the universal white garment
of this land.  There were many very poor, and aged
persons among them, and the scene was truly solemn, and
affecting.
Oct. 5. —Again, dear friend, I resume my pen, to state
that on the 27th of September, about one o'clock in the
afternoon, we set out to visit the Jordan. But first, I must
say, that it is a matter of no small importance, to make the
necessary arrangements. Meshullam still continued too
feeble, from his late illness, to accompany us, as he proposed, as it is the most unfavorable season, when few
travellers risk the danger of fever in venturing through
the heat.  Three Shieks waited on M., and insisted on a
large and customary tax to them, as they claimed to be
proprietors of the territory over which we must pass, and
also for hire for four Arab guides-(after receiving the
money they sent only three!) —and their provisions, and
expected buck-sheesh, or present. To this all travellers
are still subject. Our host made the arrangement cheaper
than usual; but, with our animals, etc., it cost him twentyfive dollars. It is usual to carry a tent; but as we proposed
only a short visit, over one night, we decided to go without. We were supplied with carpets and blankets, provisions, coffee, wine, water, and even charcoal to kindle
a fire, such is the desert road over which we must pass. I
rode MIrs. M.'s large white donkey, an easy, gentle, creature, of great endurance, and with Ahmud and Petro, we
set out in the heat of the day, as we rode out of the Damascus gate on the north, and followed the walls round eastwat'd; we found that the power of the sun was very great,
and there was a slight hot wind, called here sirocco, which
is very oppressive.  We crossed the valley of Kidron, by




BETHANY —TOMB OF LAZARUS.             65
Gethsemane, and passed over the southern extremity of
Olivet, by a rocky path, to Bethany. One of the Arab
guides stopped at the door of an old tomb, and plucked a
twig from a small tree, and gave me; and I learned from
Petro, that it was the Tomb of Lazarus!
Bethany is nestled on the steep declivity of the mount,
south-east from Jerusalem. It has only a few poor stone
houses, of a mud color, remaining, in which some Arabs
reside. But my mind looked back to the sweet scenes of
sacred Love, that were once enjoyed there, in the home
of Mary, when our blessed Lord came in, weary from his
temple labors, and sad, at the pharisaical darkness and
pride, that opposed his mission of PEACE. Here in this
humble secluded spot, he found welcome and rest; and
here performed one of his greatest miracles. We passed
onward, over steep precipitous hills, and deep vallies, now
and then taking a parting glance at the lofty spires of Jerusalem, as they re-appeared between the receding heights.
In the vallies were olive, fig, and apricot trees; but rocks
succeeded to rocks, and as we advanced trees and vegetation disappeared. We soon perceived that our stony track
was winding rapidly downward, threading one deep ravine
after another, the highbarren hills, steeply enclosing us. As
the way opened, we still found ourselves on the top of high
mountains, with still more steep and rapid descents.Toward sunset, between distant peaks of Ash-like barrenness, we saw the wide Vale of the Jordan, and the Dead
Sea, like a-motionless pool of quick-silver, set in its arid
expanse.
I have no language to describe this mountainous deseri,
without water, or tree, or shrub, or living thing, only as
here and there the long grey lizard ran across the solitary
path. The chalky cliffs, and limestone hills, glared fearfully beneath the fervid light, and the reflection burned
the face as the mouth of a heated oven. I have read many
descriptions, but had formed no correct idea of this rough
desert scenery. In the deep chasms, where steeples would
be lost, were wide beds of smooth washed stones, which
seemed like the channels of mighty torrents, suddenly




60                RUINS OF JERICHO.
drained by some withering curse.  Sometimes strata of
varied colored rock, would assume the most fanciful architectural forms.- From the smooth perpendicular heights of
chalk, would jut out in bold relief, arches, and cornices,
and domes, and pillars, with rude capitals, of dark red
quartz; and some of the arches near the vallies were so
perfect, that the chalk-like stone and earth from beneath
had fallen out, forming a room  and shelter from the sun.
I thought, that thus the' ancients might have found their
first models for arches, fretted walls, and domes.  I was
surprised at the endurance of our poor animals, in climbing such steep rough crags, without water or rest, in the
fearful heat. lMy donkey's little slender feet would cling
to the crevices between the rocks, and then descending
over some obstructing cliff, would slip, both fore feet down
at once, so carefully, that I rode much of the time with the
bridle loose upon his neck, and in all the way he did not
once seriously slide or stumble! The sun set behind us,
as we descended from the precipitous cliff of the last
mountain, into the wide level of the Plains of Jericho.
Here and there across its smooth turfiess surface were interspersed small thick-leaved thorn trees, of a light and
beautiful green. Our guides were civil and attentive, and
scouted at a distance before, and at each side, to discover
any hostile ambuscade.  The principal was tall and erect,
and a contrast to the red color of the others, being as
black as velvet.  With his long gun on his shoulder, as
the darkness came on, he walked directly before us, and
the others close in our rear. In about an hour, we came
to a small stream of water! (a thing unseen before, since
our landing at Jaffa,) which is supposed to proceed from
the same fountain, which was once healed by Elisha. Here
was a grove of large old fig-trees, and just beyond some
ruins, called Jericho!'Tfhe moon had now risen, as our weary cavalcade, were
saluted by the wild barking of the Arab dogs; and halfcovered men, women, and children, came out of some hovels,
among the ruins, and saluting our chief, said to us, Etfuddah i Etfudldah! (welcome, welcome! )  After I alighted,
da~~~~h!  ~'~.~~~~~




STRANGE LODGINGS.                67
they led me to their principal hut, which was enclosed by
a wall some five feet high, and covered with a stack of
dense thorns. It was dark inside, and they lighted a stick
at a small fire of weeds at a little distance, and shewed me
a corner inside. A large bullock shared one end, with
chickens, donkeys, etc. The heat and smell was such
that I came out, and chose a place on the ground, outside,
and near the wall; but just as Ahmud was spreading down
my carpet and cushion, the family camel came along, and
crouched at my feet, claiming his better right. I was,
however, soon accommodated near his side; while horses,
donkeys, and dogs stood behind, and a circle of Arabs
before me were sitting and smoking by the fire, and all
gazing at the strangers. Petro had brought with him his
favorite watch-dog, who now began to show his fidelity, by
keeping their wolf-like whelps howling at a distance. He
was very weary and thought, in return, that he must share
one corner of my carpet; but his constant growl at every
truant step, was tiresome to my aching head. Ahmud
made coffee, and soon prepared a comfortable supper,
which we shared, in a friendly way with our guides. Our
neighbors were respectful, and sought in several little ways
to shew us kindness. Their weapons, guns, and swords,
were piled conveniently upon the ground, and some,
alternately, patroled all night. As the moon ascended the
light became so brilliant that our umbrellas were a great
relief. Half reclining, in our dusty riding garments, in
the close neighborhood of so many Arabs and animal fleas,
we had no difficulty in keeping awake, to reflect upon our
strange and interesting lodgings.
The Dead Sea lay in the distance before us, and in near
vicinity was the Jordan, pouring its stormy tide into its
dark and unhealed waters, at the base of the Moab mountains. The same blue depth, gleaming with its innumerable stars, and glorious moon, wheeled silently, above the
same extended plain, where Joshua, Elijah, John, and
JESUS, our blessed LORD, once moved, and acted out, the
purposes of God. But now sad change, where once were
cities, beautiful and strong, vineyards, and fruitful fields,




68                  EARLY RIDE
and cultivated plains, thronging with busy life, and hearts
that worshipped God, nought now remains, but the wild
thorn, and desert soil, and heaps of ruins, scattered here
and there, and the wild son of Ishmael master of the scene.
The air was exceedingly hot and oppressive, and not the
slightest zephyr curled the smoke of a fire, which an Arab
woman sedulously replenished with the light thorn fuel,
through the night, to drive away the cloud of musquitoes.
It has been estimated that this plain is 1,300 feet below
the level of the Mediterranean, and that Mount Zion is
2,600 feet above Jaffa, so that we have descended about
3,900 feet!  At three o'clock, when the moon was set, I
lighted a taper and roused Ahmud, and desired that they
would improve the time, before the sun was up, to reach
Jordan. The guides told him that a hostile tribe was encamped near the river, and it would not be safe to go before
light; but I feared the heat more, and urged them to venture. They then kindled a fire, as the poor woman and her
infant had fallen asleep; and I watched their slow movements, as they poured some coarse flour, from a leather
bag, into a wooden bowl, and kneaded a small cake, and
raked the ashes smooth, and laid it: in the fire. They
watched it carefully, and turned it once, and in about half
an hour, were ready to start.
Again on our donkeys, in single file, we followed their
stealthy tread, while they required our entire silence, for
their fear of being heard by the enemy. We proceeded
toward the river over a level plain, of mellow soil, with only
here or there a thorny shrub or tree, with the dark line
of the mountains of Moab rising directly beyond it, the
distance strangely lengthening as we rode. After two
hours I perceived a sudden coolness in the air, and saw new
shrubs, and then trees, and their foliage bending with dew!
Soon after we saw a camp fire of the Bedouins, on the side
of the mountain nearly opposite! and every attendant was
so filled with apprehension, that they insisted on our immediate retreat. They said this tribe were more powerful
and cruel than any other, and had recently proclaimed war
with their Shieks, and that they would surely be killed if we




TO TiE JORDAN.                  69
were discovered. A strange courage possessed us, and I
told them, we had travelled many a weary mile to visit
Jordan, and we could not at this late hour give up our
purpose, but that they should wait there, and we would
proceed alone. To this they would not consent, but followed, trembling and murmuring as they went.
We descended, one dry bank, and then another, and
entered the dense thicket that fringes the course of the
river, and heard the deep roar of its waters, but saw it not,
till a moment more, when its torrent, shut within its
narrowest banks, rushed wild and turbid at our feet! A
shudder of surprise at the volume and rapid power of its
deep current, was mly first impression, as our animals halted
upon its brink. Our guides now renewed their entreaties
for our immediate return; and when they understood our
design to bathe, they assured us of the greatest risk, as the
current is stronger at this season than at any other. And
Petro, also informed us, that every spring, at the usual
time of bathing, some pilgrims were thus drowned. Seeing
us still determined, they pulled us from our saddles, to
hasten us, and tremblingly clutched their long guns, and
peered in every direction through the thicket.  Thick
clusters of beautiful cedars, with their weeping foliage,
shaded the water above the spot on which we stood, and
beneath their covert we hastily changed our dress, and
plunged into the stream, and were entirely immersed beneath its sacred flow. They were much alarmed, and one
rushed down to the brink, expecting to see us carried away.
But we were greatly refreshed by the sweet temperature of
the water, and left it with regret, to resume our riding garments. We then secured two bottles of the stream, a few
stones and plants; but seeing the terror of our dear young
friend, after a short prayer, we tore ourselves away. We
had intended taking breakfast here, and to have rested,
and prayed awhile upon its lovely banks; but such were
their earnest entreaties, we mounted our donkeys and
looked back with tenderness, admiration and awe, upon its
deep waters, and beautiful veil, of living green, as the sun
was rising behind the dark cliffs of the Moab mountains.




70            CARAVAN OF BEDOUINS.
Rapidly now we retraced our way, with the deep convictionD that Israel's cherished borders are still in the hands
of the enemy. The sun was soon up, and the hot air
scarcely moved the light foliage of the thorn, and we prepared our minds for a long fatiguing ride homewards. We
re-passed Jericho, and an old stone building near it, where
the Pasha keeps a few soldiers, and halted near the foot
of the mountains for breakfast.
Soon after the fire was kindled, and the mat spread out,
one of the Arabs gave an alarm! and descending from the
nountains, we perceived a large company of Bedouins approaching us! Our insignificance in numbers, and appearance, dismounted, and suddenly surprised by such an array
of barbarous men, for a moment appalled us!  But soon
recollecting the Strength unseen, which had preserved us
through former perils, we calmly watched their long train,
winding rapidly down the steep before us. There were
about seventy-five camels, and as many mules, and donkeys, with their riders, who were bold looking and wellarmed men. Our little company were all silent with fear,
and stood motionless beside us. Their path lay within ten
yards of the place where I sat, and our principal guide
stood a little in the advance. A tall fierce-looking Shiek
rode first, as their course depended on his example, I
watched his motionless face as he came! iHe halted, and
without speaking, reached out his hand for the pipe that
was in the hand of our guide, which he smoked for a moment and then proceeded without breaking the march of
the train behind.  Our minds were solemnized with
gratitude and praise to Him, who turneth the hearts of
men whithersoever he v-ill. They were a trading company,
returning from Jerusalem, with their empty sacks, towards
the desert beyond Jordan.
Soon after our coffee was ready, and as we were eating,
a large drove of hungry hornets came and settled harmlessly
on our napkins and plates, and we were obliged to retreat
with a hasty supply. Here I considered the curse that still
rests on the fair heritage of Jacob. The fountains and
rivers have failed; the wells have been filled with stones, and




GREAT EXTREMITY,                 71
lost; the sky is like brass, and the earth has become like
ashes, from the prolonged heat. Israel said, "let his blood
be upon us and our children," and crowned the A" Prince
of Peace," with " thorns."  Now, you can scarcely pluck
a twig, or flower, but: it has a thorny stem. Wherever
there is vegetation, thorns and briers spontaneously spring.
At this destitute season of the year for plants, I saw many
varieties, of trees and shrubs, that bore thorns! confirming
the words of the prophet: - "They have sown wheat,
but shall reap thorns;" and " behold, I will hedge up thy
way with thorns." But the promise to bless and restore
this land, will as surely be fulfilled, when "there shall be
no more any grieving thorn," and " instead of the thorn,
shall come up the fig tree; and instead of the brier shall
come up the myrtle tree, and it shall be to the Lord for a
name, for an everlasting sign, that shall not be cut off."
Again, at ten o'clock, we resumed our journey, slowly
climbing one barren ledge after another. The heat was
unusually intense and even the Arabs quailed beneath it;
and before we had proceeded half the way towards the
first mountain, their thirst was such that the goat skins
were drained, from which I had frequently wet my head,
face, and lips, and found great relief. After this our progress was slow, and the way lengthened wearily; the poor
dog would thrust his nose in the shaded earth, under the
edge of the rocks, and then closely follow under the shade
of my large umbrella, and the animals were so overcome
that the guides with difficulty drove them along. I began
to feel a strange sickness come over me; my brain seemed
on fire, and life and vitality were almost paralyzed. An
Arab perceived it, and took a skin, and leaped away among
the rocks, (as I afterwards learned,) to seek some water in
a distant cave. They cheered my donkey onward, but in
vain; and I looked till my eyes failed, but the water came
not, and such was my agony that I began to suppose my
ease fatal. Several Arabs had been struck by the sun, a
few days before, and died immediately, and my situation
was' similar. A little thorn bush cast a slight shadow, in
one of the vallies, and I fain would have laid me there to




-702              DEITVERANC E-FEAST
die; but they urged me forward. Just then a slight breeze
came through. the deep gorge of the mountains, and I
breathed again! Aihmud set up a piteous wail, and Petro
sai.d to me, "he is praying for you!"  Poor Moslem! his
pious sympathy revived my heart, and in a moment more,
a shout was heard from the guides, "Moo-yah, Moo-yah I"
(water, water!) and- the Arab, with his wet black goat
skin, came bounding down from the cliffs on our right!He came, and filled my cup; I tasted, and bathed my head
and face, while they all gathered around me, laughing for
joy: I was instantly much relieved. After all had drank,
and a hollow stone was filled for poor Tray, we urged the
animals forward. I put my hand in my pocket, to reward
~the kind and thoughtful guide, and the rings of my purse
scorched me! Another long hour, and we came to the
first water, which is situated one hour from Bethany.Ahmud hastened, and spread a carpet in the shade of the
broken wall of the fountain, and laid me there. After
taking a little wine and water, and bread, I was strengthened. It was a joy to see the poor animals drink, and I
realized as never before, how great a blessing is water!
In an hour we set forward; and at five o'clock passed
Bethany, slowly descended Olivet, and reached the gates
at sunset.
Oct. 6.-The next day after coming from the Jordan, I
was nearly as well as usual, which much surprised our
kind friends, as every one that has visited it this autumn
has returned ill. With humble gratitude I would acknowledge the peculiar care of the Lord in my preservation.
We have since witnessed " the waving of palms" in the
Jewish Feast of Tabernacles, at one of their principal
synagogues.  They observe the feast in tabernacles, or
booths, erected in the courts of their private houses. We
were invited by one of their first families to visit them, they
received us with much kindness, and showed us all over
their house, which this week is arranged in their best
order. Their rooms were comfortable and pleasant, with
matting on the floors, divans with neat covers, beds, tables,
and a few chairs, which they insisted on our using. After



OF TABERN'A.AC;LES.              73
wards we sat awhile with them in their tabernacle, which
was enclosed at the sides with curtains, and covered above
with canes, and a few small pine branches, which had been
brought from a great distance; a small table stood in the
centre, upon which all their food must be eaten during this
week of the feast; over it was suspended clusters of grapes,
figs, and pomegranates.  The aged father, with some difficulty, expressed thatfrom sympathy he loved the stranger,
especially Americans; that his people were free in their
land, and he had known them in his intercourse of trade,
in the Mediterranean, while he resided a long time in
Gibraltar.  He invited us to come often to see him, saying
that " we are all united in worshiping the same God, and
in looking for his kingdom." The mother and daughters
were gaily dressed in English style, and served us with
coffee, sweet cakes, and preserved citron, and showed us
much love at parting.  (We saw them several times afterward.) At the synagogue I was much affected at the attempted rejoicing of the poor, who went round in the
procession, among those who carried palms, extending their
hands for charity
I have forgotten before to state, that after our return
from Bethlehem, we sought out our poor friend, Solomon,
to whom we became so attached at the Qarantine.  ~We
found him ill with the ague, and in circumstances of great
destitution.  Hle was overjoyed to see us again, and this
week of the feast is so much better, as to attend us in
going and coming from the synagogues, and in our visit
among the Jews.
Yesterday, with Solomon, we visited ";the Mourningplace" of the Jews, where they go every Friday, to lament
over a few remains of the Temple. It is a spot outside
of the grounds, yet near the Mosque of Oimar.  There is
a very high wall, the foundation or lower part of which
consists of ancient stones of immense size, time-worn and
defaced, yet each having the remains of a peculiar chiselled
border.  These are supposed to have belonged to the
Temple, though composing part of a more recent structure.
A few Jews were lknueeling, vwith their fi ees against the




74                 GOLDEN GATE.
wall; others were chanting in a sad, monotonous wail,
while long weeds, creeping out from the crevices above,
were hanging mournfully down over their bowed heads.
Some women came, and bowing, kissed the stones; and
every one took off their slippers as they approached the
wall! The place accorded with my heart, and I sat down
on the smooth worn stones, and bowed my head with theirs,
and prayed that the King and Saviour of the Jews would
soon " return, and build again the tabernacle of David,
that has fallen down."
Oct. 7.-Last evening before sunset, (the time of our
accustomed walk,) we passed out of St. Stephen's Gate,
a little beyond which, it is said, that he was stoned, on the
brow of the hill overlooking Gethsemane, and beside the
path that leads down to the Garden. But we now turned
to the right, and followed in the shade of the wall, through a
closely-filled Turkish cemetery, to the Golden Gate. On
each side in its neighborhood, the base of the wall is laid
with the same kind of immense and ancient stones, that
we had seen at "the Mourning-place."  The portals and
cornice of the gateway is beautifully carved, with chaplets
of curious leaves, half-way resembling the acanthus and
thistle. The entrance is twenty-one paces in width,
and is closed up with smooth square stones of modern date,
according to the prophetic word!  (See Ezekiel xliv. 1,
3.) From this point there is a view, at once the most
solemn and interesting; directly opposite, towards the east,
rises Mount Olivet; and below, in the valley between, lies
Gethsemane; while the deep sepulchral chasm of Jehosaphat extends southward, with its multitudinous graves, in
minute prospect.
Oct. 9.-Yesterday was the last great day of the feast,
and we attended, morning and evening. The Jews were
gaily dressed in their best garments.  The walls of the
synagogues were decorated for the occasion with many
pieces of rich embroidery. In blue and gold, and in white
and silver, were wrought designs of the tables of the Ten
Commandments, seven-branched candlesticks, and fragments of the temple and tabernacle service. Their pulpit




Y~NAGOGI EC ER-CEnIONIES.           75
is a circular platform in the centre of the house, surrounded
by a balustrade, and many little hanging lamps of glass
On one side, by the wall, is something like a canopied
altar, from w'hence the priests took out some ten or twelve
wooden cylinders, which are about one foot in diameter,
and two and a half in length.  These enclose copies of the
Law, and are richly covered with tinseled silk of various
colors, and- have a silver rod attached to one end, with
pomegranates and bells; then every male, old and young,
took them in their arms by turns, and made a. procession
round the synagogue, singing and leaping, and shaking the
bells, while numbers of the priests and others danced, and exulted before them, clapping their hands, and praising God,
with portions of the Psalms. Every one present crowded
near the aisles, to touch the cylinders, and kiss their hands
as they passed. Only few of the women nearest the entrance could gain the privilege, and were often frowned
upon, and rudely pushed back by the men, and aged
grandmothers were thus insolently repelled by lads of
ten years! If some young mother held in her arms a
male infant, much decorated, she was permitted to press
in a little, and put her child's hand upon the beautiful
tinkling pageant. Fathers also took their sons of three
and four years old in their arms, with the Law, and followed round, thus so early teaching them to help in the
ceremony, and join in worship. Half of the procession
were lads, from eight to sixteen years old, who, in their
zeal to have the longest turn, would often strive, and even
strike each other! The procession passed round seven
times, with great noise; the Law was then returned to its
place, and the congregation retired.
During the ceremony, those unoccupied were laughing
and talking, standing, and pressing here and there irregularly. Some were much more engaged than others,
leaping like David, with all their might, and others, each
side, sprinkled rose-water upon them as they passed. Solomon appears very devout, and is much pleased with our
interest in their worship. Last evening he carried a lantern for us, as the passages are entirely dark through the




76              GROTTO OF JEREMIAH.
city at night, for every stall is closed, and windows rarely
open into the street.
The rabbies have treated us with kind attention, and
yesterday compelled us to sit in their pulpit, that we might
have a better view of the ceremony. Some of the rich
displayed much in their dresses, jewelry, etc.; while mixing with them, side by side, were some scarcely covered
with ragged and filthy garments; and there was among
them a great variety of color and feature. I cannot easily
express the tender emotions of sorrow and reverence that
oppressed me, while witnessing the ceremonies of this
feast, which are here celebrated by the remnant of Jehovah's ancient and chosen people, on this ruined altar, in
"THE PLACE OF THE NAME OF THE LORD OF HOSTS,"
still clinging, as through so many weary centuries they have
done, to these types of unfulfilled promises, and still engraving them upon the hearts of their infant sons, despite
their low estate and long captivity. ~This practice, of so
early engaging their children in the active service of the
sanctuary, is a pleasing contrast to the distance prescribed
for the young by some of the Gentile sects. 5We understand by this how the children were in the Temple, ready
to be witnesses for Jesus, by " crying Hosannah!" etc. I
pointed an aged man, who was conversing with me, to the
embroidered crown of gold above the Law, and signified
to him that Messiah's REIGN was near, with which he was
much pleased; and another said, "This is the Father
r.eligion!" But, while the multitude shouted so loud that
we could not hear each other, I also praised MY Redeemer,
" the King of the Jews."
Oct 10.-Last evening, in company with Elijah and
James,) the eldest sons of Meshullam,) we walked out of
the Damascus Gate, to what tradition calls' the Grotto of
Jeremiah."  It appears like a natural chamber, formed in
the perpendicular side of an immense rock, which rises
at a little distance from the walls, on the north side of the
city. The entrance is some fifty feet from the ground
below it, and yet it is approached from the hill, at the
side, by a very narrow terrace.  Here, it is said, in view




BAZAARS.                     r 7
of the city, that Jeremiah wrote his Lamentations over
it. Beneath this aperture opens a deep cavern under the
rook, in which is the supposed pit where he was incarcerated. At its mouth are some olives, and a fine lemon
tree, growing, as it were, in the court of entrance.  Here
an Arab Shiek has a rude hut beside the rock; and as we
looked down from the shelving terrace above, he and his
donkey seemed small in the solemn depth.  We then extended our walk through a grove of olives to a mill, where
the oil is pressed. It was a clumsy attempt at machinery.
Near it we saw a pine, lofty and flourishing, of the largest
size of any tree in the vicinity of Jerusalem.
Near the walls of the city, we saw several deep excavations, cells, and subterranean rooms, with their arched
roofs broken in, forming dangerous pits; also a dry reservoir:of a lost fountain, with its beautifully carved trough,
recently broken.  Elijah said that it was entire a year
since, but had thus been wantonly destroyed by the Arabs I
In a number of places, we saw remains of the ancient
walls, parallel with, but distant from, the present walls
of the city, enclosing a much larger area. At every step,
I was reminded that we were treading upon the records
of buried ages. There are many tombs, in every direction,
most of which are modern, and rude efforts of masonry.
The present inhabitants, in burying their dead, excavate a
square pit, in which, without- a coffin, they unceremoniously
deposit the body, in its usual dress. It is sometimes wound
up in an outer garment, or sheet, and laid down horizontally, but more frequently otherwise, in any accidental
position. The north side of the city is more easily approached than any other, being an undulating level, broken
here and there by abrupt cliffs, between cultivated plats
of stony soil, and thickly studded with flourishing olives.
Hence it is from this side invasions have ever been effected.
After the rain commences in November I am assured, that
grass and aromatic plants and flowers, in magical beauty,
spring forth and cover the surface, that now appears like
ashy and turfless soil.
Oct. 11.-Elijahl is engatged in the Dis,pcnsary of the




78               TOMB OF THE KINGS.
English Mission, until four o'clock, P. Bi.; after which,
with his brothers, James and Petro, he accompanied us
this afternoon to " the Tombs of the Kings," which are
situated about three-fourths of a mile north of the city,
on the way to Damascus.  In a rocky plain, interspersed
with olives, near the road, we found a square area, of
perhaps one-fourth of an acre, sunk, and mostly hewn
out of the solid rock, about the depth of eighteen feet.
The surface of the earth around it is level with the edge
of the sunken area, except on one side; it is excavated
without, leaving a wall of the same rock, through which
is cut an arched opening about three feet high. Through
this we crept into the square, where was an old olive tree,
some piles of rubbish, and broken slabs, etc. We passed
through to the western side, where opens a portico, cut out,
with steps descending beneath its roof, of stone.  Its front
above is carved, in beautiful designs, of curious foliage
and fruit. No pillars remain, yet their fragments may lie
buried beneath the hill of broken stone and earth, that half
obstructs the entrance.
Under this portico, some feet below the level of the open
court, opens a low and narrow aperture, through which,
with lighted candles, we with difficulty crept. We found
ourselves at once in a room about twenty feet square, and
the dark chiselled ceiling some twelve feet above us. From
this, through the same kind of narrow doors, opened three
other similar rooms.  From  these again, other narrow
doors opened into small closets, where there were shelves
of sufficient size to hold large coffins.  I examined the
wall on every side with a good light, to find some fissure
or seam in the rock, but it was every where the same,
hewn out of the one entire hill of stone. Near by each
aperture lay fragments of their doors, smoothly polishled
and chafed with bevelled edges; some were nearly entire,
as they had.been thrown down by some powerful invader I
In the stone-wrought casements were grooves, and at the
corner of the doors were hinge-like pins to fit, so that they
could swing with perfect case and security.  There were
also stair-cases leading  down to an under-story of apart



VALLEY OF HINNOiM.                79
ments, containing similar rooms and recesses. I was forced
to the conviction, by the entire oneness of the rock, and
by the appropriate but empty shelves, that this was indeed
the tomb and power of royalty; that during the many
contests of various nations and sects, which came to invade
and destroy, with bigoted zeal; (these tombs being outside
of the city and unprotected,) the sarcophagi have been all
long since removed and destroyed, and their bones scattered to the winds. It is written, (Jer. viii. 1, 2;) "They
shall bring out the bones of the kings of Judah, and the
bones of his princes, and the bones of his priests, and the
bones of his prophets, and the bones of the inhabitants of
Jerusalem out of their graves, and they shall spread them
before the sun," etc. This supposes sepulchres, from which
they could bring themn out; and in no way could these
massive doors be thus mutilated and thrown down, but by
determined enemies. The air within was close and damp,
and I felt a sense of oppression, from the "darkness that
might be felt."  As we returned, the cool soft air was a
sweet relief, and we reached the gate in time to enter, with
a fine relish for our cup of tea and cheerful lodgings.
Oct. 13.-Last evening we walked out of the Jaffa Gate,
which opens on the edge of the hill, above the Valley of
HIinnom. We descended into its stony depth, among the
old olives, and took a seat on a rock among the thorns, that
half cover the surface of the soil. The recollections of
its dark history of blood and fire, cast a deeper gloom
upon its present desolation. The walls on this side of the
city are more regular and beautiful than elsewhere; and
the tower of an ancient citadel of great strength, still remains in a good state of preservation, near the gate.
This morning we rose early, and desiring to spend a
season in prayer on the summit of Olivet. before the heat
of the day, we passed out of St. Stephen's Gate, and followed the worn furrow, down the rocky declivity to the
Garden below. We passed by its hoary trees, as the
burning glory of the sun was beaming behind the summit
of Olivet; and as we paused, I thought how like oulr
spiritual state was that speaking landscape.  Gethsemane,




80               EjnISABBATH  MORN-ING.
in the deep shade of the Mount, is like our present pilgrimage of tears Z while the bright rays of the rising sun,
gleaming from behind its summit, was like our "blessed
hope" of the near cominig of the Sun of Righteousness!
The mountain is a range of three summits, or elevations,
the highest and central point is directly over the Garden,
opposite and fronting the Golden Gate, and the site of the
Temple.  On this is now situated a cluster of walls and
buildings, called the Church of the Ascension, where a
family of Latin priests reside. The other two are unoccupied open fields, spotted with olive trees.  Of three
diverging roads, we chose the middle and steepest path,
winding among the rocks and craggy trees to the right,
across the peark, towards Bethany.  There was a sweet
cool a'r from  the north-west, and the early dew gave a
freshness to the deep green of the trees; the stony track
was very rough and steep, and I was often obliged to sit
down to rest, and was much affected with the thought, how
often the Lord Jesus had climbed that rugged ascent, in
the same direction, "TOWARDS BETHANY!"
When we gained the point to which our minds had been
directed, the view was wide, and the most affecting to me
of any that earth can give! Here JERUSALEM lay at our
feet as a map; and the beautiful broad level of the Temple
site, encircled with trees and fountains; and still above on
its left, the lofty terraces of Zion, with the sealed gate,
in silent reverence waiting, till He whose right it is to
reign, shall come and open its long untrodden threshold.
Not an Arab crossed our way, and all around the silent
lonely hills kept Sabbath with us: a sacred presence seemed
to rest upon the Moint, and I was filled with awe, and
lifted up my hands with strealming eyes, and prayed that
HE would quickly (come, our long expected, and stand
again on Olivet, (Zech. xiv. 4,) restore his heritage, and
from the four winds bri-ing  his scattered and his waiting
saints: and then we fell upon our knees, and plead the
everlasting covenant of God with ransomed man; that for
the name of JEsums, his alone-begotten, and for his kingdom's sake, and Ibr- Jchovah's Name, and truth, and




'bOUNT OLIVEL.                  81
promise sake, that he would bring again the long captivity
of Israel, and build again his house of prayer, and set on
Zion's hill, the King of Righteousness! And while we
prayed, a cloud of blessing came, which words may not
describe; fobr in a moment, to my quickened sense, the
heap of ruinous rubbish, and the Moslem's shrine, was seen
no more, and on its site a city, pure and beautiful, arose;
and in the midst, in glorious majesty, the King of Righteousness, supremely reigned; and all the hills around, in
Eden loveliness, spread out, an undulating plain! And
then in shadow passed, the finale of this waiting hour, its
trial, darkness, and its quick reward-" the COMING," and
the REIGN of peace. But more of this anticipating faith
I nlay not speak, but tears fell fast and free; my heart
was strengthened in its sacrifice and purpose still to venture, in the path of faith, and hope unto THE END.
Oct. 14.-Some days since, we obtained permission of
the Latin Convent, through our young friend, Elijah, to
enter the enclosure of Gethsemane.  They have recently
purchased this privilege from the Turks, and enclosed
eight of the most ancient trees, in the depth of the valley,
where tradition marks the place where our blessed Lord
sweat drops of blood. The wall is some fourteen feet high,
and composed of whitish chalk-looking stones and mortar.
We passed over the dry channel of the brook Kidron;
Elijah knocked at the low door, and it was opened by an
aged pilgrim, who acts as keeper and gardener. HIere I
was more sensibly affected than at any other of the marblecovered and cherished localities. The native earth and
stones were bare and grey; the ragged time-worn trunks
of the hoary trees, like solemn witnesses stood there, with
their thin foliage, bearing olives still. I sat upon the
ground beneath their thickest shade, and while the others
were busy with the good old man, in a distant corner, where
he was showing what he supposed were marks of blood
upon the rocks, I fell upon my face and kissed the dust, and
found a blessing there, in pleading all my cherished names
of Christian LOVE; that for that blood and agony, we
might be sanctified, and brought into his place of rest.




2  POOL OF SILOAM
The gardener permitted me to take a small branch, with
leaves, and a cluster of olives;;and as we turned to leave,
I offered him the usual present, that in this country is
often claimed without pretext, but he steadily refused it,
saying, in Arabic, that it was recompense enough for him
to have the care of. such a place 1 I was moved at this
return, and laid. my hand upon his breast, and looked up,
while he united in the expression that our God would bless
both him and us, poor pilgrims by the way.
Oct. 15.-We rose early this morning, and set out to
visit "the Pool of Siloam."  We passed the Turkish
sentinels at St. Stephen's Gate, who stand in silence, and
bow respectfully, as we daily go.in and out, and followed
the path southward, near the walls, by the Beautiful Gate.
and descended into the Valley of Kidron, by an inclined
path, below Gethsemane, and reached its depth by the
time-worn Pillar of Absalom. Many small stones were
heaped at its base, thrown here by the passing Jews, as a
mark of contempt for that rebellious son. Here the hills
nearly meet, and the ravine between them is deep and
narrow, and the Valley of Jehoshaphat begins to open. On
the side of the hill, opposite to the city, below the Pillar,
is a solid ledge of rocks overhanging the path, in which are
hewn several doors and tombs.; The entrance of one has
fine pillars of the same rock, and another at its side is cut
out entire, in the form of a solid square, with a pyramidal
roof, which is called "the Tomb of Zachariah."  Here
we paused, and remembered his prophetic testimony respecting the final restoration of Jerusalem.
As we followed the dry stony channel of the brook, the
valley spread out before us, and was entirely covered with
small rude stones, some two feet long; Hebrew characters
were dimly visible upon them, to mark the place of the
countless sleepers there! They were crowded together on
the side of the precipitous hills, and extended into the
narrow footway on the edge of the gullied chasm of the
brook, which still descended, until Mlount Zion, and a
corner of the wall of the city, rose bold and high over
our heads. Here afr;ain the valley contracted, and on our




AND VILLAGE.                  83
left commenced another range of lofty crags, with many
square apertures, doors, and tombs, hewn out between
their fissures, among which is nestled above, the Arab
"village of Siloam," with their rude additions, in which
their dogs and donkeys share with them the same shelter.
Women were coming up from the fountain, some distance
below, with heavy water-pots upon their heads, while men,
with their long pipes, were crouched upon the overjutting
cliffs, many feet above us, watching our progress. A little
farther, we saw some mulberry trees, cultivated plats of
ground, and thrifty fig-trees.  On our right, water was
issuing from the rock, by a narrow channel, irrigating the
soil. This we afterwards learned, was a subterranean
aqueduct from the fountain, cut through the rock under
the base of Mount Zion!
As we proceeded, a ledge of rocks rose between us and
Mount Zion; on our left were cultivated plats of beets
and cauliflowers.  At length this ledge abruptly ended,
and from between it and Zion came out a large stream of
water, rippling over the stones. Here were some eight or
ten men, women, and children, with their dogs and donkeys, some getting water, and others washing their clothes,
by rubbing them on the stones under the waterfall. They
received us civilly, and an old woman, leading a little child,
undertook to be our guide to the fountain. She led us
back,- round the end of the ledge, between the rocks and
the Mount, where we found the Pool, or Fountain of Siloam, flowing from the base of Zion. The water issues
from beneath an archway of overhanging rock, into a sunken
reservoir. We descended the broken steps, under its cool
shade, and drank, and bathed our head and'" eyes," praying much that we might also be inwardly washed, and our
eyes opened, as one of old, to see the perfect will of God.
As we returned, and slowly climbed towards the gate, the
sun had risen in its strength, and the deep shade of the
streets proved a timely refuge from its power.
Oct. 20. —To-day is the holy Sabbath, when we know
that our beloved household of faith, at home, will especially
rememeber us in prayer. We rose early, and before break



846               SOLOMON'S HOUSE.
fast, walked out of the Damascus Gate to the " Grotto of
Jeremiah," and entered by its dizzy terrace into the chamber over the cavern. In the distance some Arabs were
gathering olives, and some were passing towards the gate
with skins of water. The soft air outside the walls was
fresh and pure, and the cave afforded a cool shelter from
the sun. Here we sung a hymn, and knelt and worshipped,
and felt a spirit of supplication for the desolations of Zion;
her scattered and oppressed children, and the sympathizing
Christian remnant at home, and experienced a precious
season of inward blessing.
Oct. 21.-The deep blue vault, and glorious ever shining
sun is veiled to-day with thin grey-clouds, which is a delightful change and relief, after the long-continued brightness. Our poor friend, Solomon, has the chills again, and
is unable as usual to come and see us; so in company with
his brother, a young lad, we went to the Jewish Quarter,
and passed from one narrow filthy passage to another, where
we saw manypoor Jews in circumstances of squalid poverty I
Here and there we met a miserable donkey, with a few
greens, or a little charcoal for sale, and the passage between
the high rough walls, was so narrow, that the driver was
obliged to press the little animal close to one side, that I
might barely slip by him.
At length we entered a forlorn court, with old mats, and
torn quilts, spread on one side by the wall for beds and
divans, without a stool or table, or any furniture, excepting a
few earthen dishes and jugs for water. I understood from the
women that this was the common home of numbers of the
poor. When the lad sought for Solomon, he was too ill to
rise, and they led us down, through broken arches, and
stair-ways, until we found him, lying with one mat and
quilt between him and the stone floor, and an old blanket
wrapped round him, without pillow or sheet! A small
bundle and a basket stood in one corner, and an earthen
bottle of water, and some black crusts of Arab bread near
his head, were all his miserable store!  He was much
affected at seeing us, clinging to our hands, and kissing
them with tears! We had interceded with the Hospital




ARMENIAN CONVENT.                  8i'
proprietors to shelter him, but they were full, yet Elijah
had obtained some medicine for him, that stood near him,
on the floor. Hle strove to tell us his misery, saying  "lah
kiwah! lah russ!" (no coffee! no rice! etc.)  We had
brought a few things for him, which with an additional
mite, he received with many thanks. But oh, how our
hearts melted, as we knelt beside him, that our poor relief
could not reach his need, and with earnest prayer, we commended him to the God and Father of Is'raecl. As we came
away we met a rich and learned Jew, who had shewn us
kind attention; we plead his poor brother's case; but he
said, "Oh, there are so many just like him," and then
repeated the story of their general destitution.
Oct. 22.-This afternoon Elijah accompanied us on a
visit to the Armenian Convent, which is situated on the
elevated ground near Zion's Gate. It is a fine large building, well endowed, and its church is richly decorated, and
contains a great display of gold and silver, paintings, lamps,
etc.  The courts, garden, entrance, and the street near it,
is very clean, and kept in fine order, and has the appearance of more comfort and elegance, than any thing that I
have seen in this country.  The Greeks and Latins have
also a convent within the walls, which we have not visited.
We have been infonrmed7 that the Greek Convent, though
well established and protected by Russia, is not as fine, and
the Latin is still more inconsiderable.  The English Mission have an elegant church, recently erected, on a part
of Mount Zion, which is within the walls, and near the
Jaffa Gate. They have a Bishop, and several clergymen,
and other members of the Mission  residing here.  On
Sunday morning they have an English service, and German and Hebrew afterwards.  We have attended several
times.  They have an English school for children, taught
by a lady, and also a higher institution for converted Jews.
They have also a well conducted Hospital and Dispensary, where Jews are employed, and the sick are well provided and nursed, free of charge. A physician is in
attendance, anxd medicine is supplied to genereal applications




86                ZTON'S GATE-LEPMERS
gratis. This branch of their benevolence is often improved
by Mussulmen and others.
After leaving the Convent we passed out of Zion's Gate,
which leads directly to the Tomb of David, which is situated on its summit, a short distance from the walls. We
walked awhile upon its lonely terraces, from which we had
an extensive view, of the surrounding country. As we
returned we saw a company of lepers seated on the ground,
who held up their maimed and, decayed limbs, to excite
our compassion, and the sight was most distressing, as we
ventured near, to throw a few piastres among them. We
then came through the Jewish Quarter, and were greatly
afflicted with the abject misery of the poor residents. No
description can equal the stern reality of their suffering.
Oct. 23. —IMy beloved friend, you will doubtless desire to
know something of my experience, as to the spiritual result
of my present pilgrimage of faith! Of this I would
not speak prematurely, but providential incidents of peculiar interest and importance, attended by strong convictions of the Spirit, respecting unfulfilled p2.romises to Israel
have, during our short stay in the Holy Land, opened a
new and unexpected field of duty and blessing to my anticipations of faith. You will then bear with me while I open
this result, in the same way that my daily experience has,
thus far, confirmed the truth to my own mind. When we first
arrived, my desire was to remain as short a time as possible,
supposing that my sacrifice and duty was completed by
simple obedience to the mind of the Lord, in this consummation of my journey. We have, therefore, made it a
subject of constant prayer that our course might be entirely
directed of Him, and that his providence might open whatever duty or light, connected with Israel, there might be
for us here. Our want of language seemed, to my unbelief, an entire barrier to all investigation, or personal communication, and I was necessarily driven more entirely to
the Lford.
Through our connection with Solomon, we became
familiar with the piety, doubtful expectations, and suffering
circumstances of the poor, and found, by experience, that




MESHIULLAM'S POSITION.            87
by approaching them with humble, loving confidence, their
hearts are open to a righteous influence. By coming in
obedience to our inward Teacher, against our own wisdom,
in the hot and sickly season, when other travellers rarely
risk the exposure, it has cost us much suffering and reproof
from observers, but it has proved to be the most favorable
season for our object, for it is the only time that Meshullam
has leisure, or could have spared room for our accommodation, for so long a stay, even at double the expense I
Through the temporary failure of his general health, at
this point, he was hindered from his constant active engagements, and confined to the solitude of his summer house in
Bethlehem.  Our interest and sympathy in his peculiar
position here met a reciprocal Christian response, and
through this familiar connection with him and his interesting family, in the chastened feelings of this crisis, lie
opened to us, in different conversations, the details of his
interesting  history and experience, little deeming the
impression it made upon our hearts, and the influence it
would finally extend to others who are devoted to the good
of Israel. His character, and wonderful experiment in
agriculture, at this moment of dispensational expectation,
when the Jews in every land are rising from their captive
state, has greatly interested; and led us earnestly to consider
the Lord's purpose in his sustainment.
Ile is obliged to be at Artos a part of the time, and for
several days has been much occupied in giving directions
to the young German, who is commencing to labor there.
Although his new assistant is well furnished with means,
and has engaged to board and provide for himself, M. is
gratuitously making every provision in his power for his
comfort. He has carried out his best tent for his use, and
often sends his meals, cooked from the hotel. Such is his
kindly care for the good of those around him.
Oct. 24.-As the time approaches for us to leave Jerusalem my mind is much exercised with regard to returning
by the way of England. Before leaving America, this
was my anticipated duty; but since our time is so near exhaustedl I have prayed much that we may be free to return




88        ~       ANCIENT QUARRY.
directly from the MIediterranean, and escape the long winter voyage northward.  We have no acquaintance or
introduction to believers there, and I feel a great weariness of this homeless life, and shrink from a repetition of
stranger lands and scenes; but, as the cross and suffering
connected with the route by England increases before my
mind, so the conviction deepens that the Lord may require
us to fulfil it.
Oct. 25. —This afternoon we took our accustomed walk
outside the walls, and saw many ancient and scriptural
way-marks. We passed out of the Damascus Gate, and followed the walls eastward, till we came to the upper valley
of the Kidron above, and north of Gethsemane.  A road
leads through it, north-east, towards "Bethel." It is the
loveliest vale in the circuit of the walls, and its picturesque, rock-terraced scenery, is here and there shaded by
fig and olive trees. We passed a deep excavation in the
side of the hill, which appeared like an ancient quarry;
old trees are growing in its depth, and half-separated slabs
remain a monument of other days. On the east side, the
continuation of Olivet slopes away, and is lost among succeeding hills.  A troop of Turks came scouring down the
vale, with their Arab attendants, and their beautiful horses
gaily caparisoned; they wore long robes of bright and
varied colors, with rich turbans and glittering arms. As
they passed they looked earnestly, with seeming surprise,
at our unarmed simplicity, as few Europeans ride or walk
so far without a guard. We followed the valley southward,
on our return towards St. Stephen's Gate; and as it was
still early, I sat down on a rock-on the edge of the hill before
it. Here the view is most beautiful and affecting, and I
knew that I must soon leave these hallowed scenes. My
health has been steadily improving since my sojourn in
this country; I felt unusual strength, and watched with
peculiar happiness the deepening shadows in the garden,
while yet the golden rays of the setting sun lingered on the
heights of Olivet! After I had finis'ed a small sketch of
Absalom's Pillar, that rose in the bottom of the vale, we
returned, and sat late at tea with Mieshullam and his family,




RABBIES VISITe                 89
listening to his eloquent recitals of joy and suffering, during
his long residence in Palestine.
Oct. 26.-As our visit with Meshullam is drawing to a
close, many questions of interest occupy our mutual attention, respecting the present transition state of this land,
its greatest needs, and the most formidable obstacles in the
way of its restoration. The most surprising fertility is struggling side by side with desert barrenness, and the choicest
natural advantages, of climate and situation, have hitherto
been paralyzed by an uncivilized despotism, and the ignorance and sloth of its occupants. But in the last few years
a surprising change is distinctly manifest, and "the land,"
in harmony with the improving prospects of its scattered
people, is showing symptoms of returning life, in sure presage of its speedy and glorious redemption. To show the
confidence that his brethren repose in Meshullam I would
mention, that two Rabbies have just left the room, who
have been sitting with us an hour, consulting with him
respecting some poor Jews, that have recently arrived, who
each possess a little money; and these friends desire Meshullam's assistance in making some arrangement for their
employment! We find difficulty in obtaining intelligence
from Jaffa, and, unless some unexpected way shall soon
open for our return by England, we must take the steamer
next week from Jaffa to Beyroot, and thence proceed by
the French line to Marseilles, where we can find vessels
for America.
Oct. 27. —ow  mysterious are the ways of the Lord!
and how often we recognise the inspired truth, " it is not
in man to direct his steps!"  The English Consul here
was acquainted with our desire of obtaining a passage
westward from Jaffa, but he left the city on a tour to Gaza,
and we had no expectation of hearing from, or seeing him
again. After he left, reasons unknown to us changed his
plan, and he proceeded to Jaffa, where he found a merchant vessel belonging to England. IHe ascertained that
the captain would accommodate us, and wrote and sent by
his Arab express to inform us! We feel truly grateful for
this kind attention; and as our convictions of duty coincide




90           PR'2PARAT' 0NS FOR LEAVING.
with this providential intimation, we have decided to leave
immnnediately for Jaffa.
Oct. 28.-To-day, in the anxiety of preparation, I experienced a chill, and an attack of the fever, which at this
season prevails within the walls, in consequence of the
effluvia in the confined streets, arising from unremoved
matter and destitution of sewers; also,just before the rainy
season commences, the supply of water fails, or becomes
low and poor in the old cisterns, and increases the tendency
to disease; but I am happy to learn that in villages, where
high walls do not obstruct the pure air, and there are wells
and springs of living water, with common attention to
health and cleanliness, no such tendency exists.  The kind
Christian lady who loaned me her saddle at Jaffa, having
recently arrived in the city, called at the hotel to take
leave of us.  When she learned by what route we expect
to return, a lady who accompanied her from England, and
who came with her to-day, inquired if I had acquaintance
or introduction there. She was surprised that we had not,
and immediately offered me a letter to her sister residing
there, if we visited her neighborhood, saying that she is a
devoted Christian, and will take pleasure in affording us
any needful advice or attention. She has since sent us a
very kind introduction, and will also write by steamer, to
anticipate us.  When I consider the circumstances of humility under which I travel, such an unexpected and disinterested act of love, in this last moment of our need, much
affects me, and I receive it as a new token of the Lord's
goodness and approbation.
Oct. 29. —Our conversations have assumled the most
serious and interesting character, and we feel united in one
heart with our benevolent friend, in the spirit of entire
self-sacrifice, to follow and carry out the purposes of God,
in the openings of his divine providence, for the true good
of Israel. ~ -e often regrets the shortness of our time; that
we did not earlier and more freely communicate, and that
we cannot visit with him diffelent watered localities, where
entire villages could soon be sustained by the fertility of
the soil.  Bhousands of Israel are confiuned to the fbetid




CONVERSATIONS.                  91
air of narrow dwellings, beneath these crumbling walls,
without object or employment, rarely emerging beyond
their sight, their weak animal existence scarcely sustained
by a rigid charity, and dragging out a suffering existence,
in all the horrors of destitution and ignorance; and this
affliction is in their own land, where a small expenditure in
agriculture, connected with sef-denyig.g and active labors
of'love, might at once liberate and introduce them into a
position of hopeful blessing.
On one occasion he said, " This subject embraces the
hope and interest of my whole life!  I have sometimes
spoken to distinguished men of piety, while they have been
visiting this land, and they have encouraged me to hope
in their co-operation; but when the sorrows of Jerusalem
have faded-from their sight, they have forgotten my poor
appeal, and I have heard no more of their sympathy with
Israel!  Can it be that you also will forget? Why will
you leave uS? Remain at once, and unite with the humble
means that we already have in possession, and prove what
the Lord will do i" Such words of heart-felt earnestness
and truth are sinking into our hearts, and if it were not
that we esteem it a day of good tidifngs,-and that we owe a
duty and " report" to the distant and beloved, who may
also unite in the same holy service, —we should remain,
and cast in our lot with a remnant of believing Israel, in
the land of Judah! We have realized much spiritual life
and blessing in our communications with this devoted man
upon this subject; and if the Lord should spare our life,
to testify to believers in our own land, and a few should be
moved to come and colonize, without sectarian name or
prejudice, with self-sacrifice to the one object, of obedience
to God for the good of Israel, we will return and cheerfully
unite with them, in so sweet and holy a service until the
lMaster come.
Oct. 30. —5My chills continue, and my kind friends, Mr.
and Mrs. Meshullam, are much afflicted at my leaving them
in this suffering state. Solomon has partially recovered,
and is with us to-day. We cannot reconcile him to our
departure, and his tears and entreaties increase my desire




02          PARTINCG WITIL MIESHIULLAM.
to return. He promnises to join us, and learn agriculture,
if we will come to the aid of Meshullam, and beseechingly
holds up and counts his fingers for us to say how many
moons before he may expect us! Our friend is much concerned to make tilhe easiest arrangement for me, as I cannot
take a comfortable seat in a carriage, or railway car, to
pass the rough precipitous descent to Jaffa. The vessel
is expected to sail on the 3d of November; and I cannot
hope to recover in time, and must set out, while subject
to chills and fever, on horseback, by the way.
Nov. 3.-On shipboard, at anchor before Jaffa. Every
possible arrangement was made for our journey by Meshullam. He sent a muleteer and mules for our baggage, and
Ahmud with necessary provisions. I was well'wrapped,
and seated in a pannier, suspended to the side of a strong
mule, and Petro led the white- donkey, ready saddled, to
relieve me. Solomon came early, with a fixed purpose,
notwithstanding his weakness, to lead my mule all the way
to Jaffa. This we could not permit, but consented that
he should walk a little distance on the road with us.Meshullam also, with his youngest son in his arms, rode
out some miles to attend us. Thus accompanied by these
interesting friends-one a representative of Christian
Israel, and the other of the sincere, but unbelieving of his
brethren-early in the morning of the 1st of November,
we left the Holy City. As I looked back, the sun had
risen above the stony heights of Olivet, and surrounded by
its olive shades, the grey walls bf Jerusalem faded in the
distance.  lIy emotions were mingled with sorrow and
joy-sorrow for the darkness and desolation that still enshrouds Zion, and joy at " the blessed hope" of her speedy
redemption. At length we halted on a rocky summit, and
covenanted, in the strength of the God of Israel, to give
him no rest until he make Jerusalem a praise in the earth,
and, according to his helping hand, to return in due time,
and labor and abide with them. Our parting was painfully
affecting, and poor Solomon was so weak, that Meshullam
compelled him to take his saddle, while himself returned
homeward on foot. At dark we reached Ramlah, found




HO0MEWARD VOYAGE.                 93
comfortable lodgings at the Latin Convent, and before noon
the next day arrived at Jaffa. My chills were providentially stayed until evening, after which I experienced a
severe attack, but to-day was enabled to come on board,
expecting soon to lose sight of the land of prophetic
promise.
March 30, 1850.-At sea, midway the Atlantic, on
board an American steamer. Oh, what a mystery is human
life! I little thought that five long months of suffering
must intervene before I should write again. If possible,
I would refrain from speaking a word of our fearful voyage of seventy-two days from Jaffa to England! I had
severe chills and fever every day until Christmas, and we
had a succession of head winds, rain, and terrible gales,
keeping our berths wet or damp all the way. Our provisions
were of the coarsest kind; and our captain proved to be one
of the most unprincipled and severe of civilized humanity.
I was reduced to the lowest state of existence; was unable
to sit up an hour during thilJ passage, and week after week
despaired of life! But so it pleased the Lord to preserve
me alive, until we landed in a storm, at Falmouth, England. Our provisions were nearly exhausted, (we had
suffered much for want of food,) and our vessel and rigging rent and torn, having barely escaped shipwreck!
The exertion and fatigue of landing brought on a violent
relapse of fever, and my emaciation and helplessness was
extreme.
Here we found that it was only a few hours, by steamer,
to the place where our introduction was directed; if it had
been otherwise, I could not have availed myself of its
timely sympathy. We forwarded an intimation of our
arrival, and on the fifth day I was carried on board the
steamer.  The distinguished lady, to whom we were directed, had received also a letter from Jerusalem respecting
us, and received us with great kindness.  She came with
a carriage, and with Christian tenderness removed me to
pleasant lodgings, which she had prepared for us -
Here I hoped soon to regain strength, and proceed homel
wards; but the effects of my late disease and deprivation




94           ENGLAND-STORMA[  AT SEA.
were fearful, and my broken frame seemed trembling for a
long time between life and death. One relapse succeeded
another, and one difficulty after another, would assume a
formidable aspect, until two full months passed before I
was able to take passage for the United States.
The Christian love, kind attention, and assistance which
we received from a large circle of believers here, much
affected my heart. I was most of the time confined to
my room, and my spirit was so bruised and depressed, that
at first I resolved to be silent respecting my heart's burden; but such was their sympathy, and the spiritual refreshment that we enjoyed in their communion, that we afterwards spoke freely to them of the character and position of
Meshullam, and our interest in his sustainment. They
were much pleased and quickened by the recital, and one
of them, a gentleman of distinction, kindly proposed to
take the charge and expense (through his agent in Liverpool) of any letters or freight which friends in America
should wish to forward, through England, to the assistance
of Meshullam. Here I saw why I had been sent to England, as there is no direct communication between the
United States and Palestine! These were choice spirits,
of great intelligence and scriptural knowledge, who also
wait for the kingdom of God, and the consolation of Israel;
and we parted from themn with the most sincere emotions
of love and gratitude.
April, 1850.-After this entry, we experienced an awful
gale, which continued over a week. The wheels were often
stopped, and many hours we were drifted by the fury of
the winds and waves. The bulwarks and sky lights were
swept away, and the water poured into the cabin, drenching the lower berths and loose baggage. The angry flood,
unrestrained, broke over us, and our great ship rolled and
plunged beneath their fearful weight, and seemed sinking
to rise no more. Our captain, who had been at sea fifty
years, remarked that he had never experienced so violent
a storm; but such a scene must be witnessed, to feel its
true power. Vain indeed was the wisdom, and mechanical
skill of mnan in such an hour  Amid the consternation of




ARRIVAL HIOME4                  95
all, we were enabled, through grace, to hope in God, that
he would bring us up from this death also, and permit us
to praise him for so great salvation! After long and suffering suspense the wind abated, and we reached our native
land, overwhelmed with the sense of a Divine purpose of
mercy in our preservation.
(Such was the interest of Christian friends in the cause
of Meshullam, after our arrival, that I hastily collated a
few written statements, which I had preserved respecting
him, with extracts from this journal, (here omitted,) and
published them early in June, 1850; which "narrative"
is here (the FOURTH time) republished.)




NARRATIVE OF FACTS AND INCIDENTS
IN THE LIFE OF
JOHN A MESHULLAM.
JOHN IMESHULLAM was born in London, in the year
1800. His father was a wealthy and devout Jew, who
purchased a vessel when his son was four years old, and
embarked with his family for Jerusalem.  On his way he
stopped at Cadiz, where he heard of the embargo of Bonaparte, in the Mediterranean, which would interfere with
the prosecution of his voyage; he therefore disposed of his
vessel, and went by land to Salonica, where he settled,
until the times should be more favorable to his pious design. John was sent back to a Jewish school at London,
where he had only been a short time, when his father and
mother, his brothers and sisters, were massacred, and
their house pillaged and reduced to ashes, in an insurrection between the Turks and Greeks. As i most of his
father's money was secured in London, he became heir to
a considerable estate. He continued at school, under the
charge of the Jewish rabbies, until he was about fifteen
years of age, when, in conjunction with an uncle, they
attempted to coerce him to become one of their number,
and cede his fortune to their common fund. He was opposed to this measure, and soon after left them, and proceeded to Berlinwhere he pursued his studies, and became
master of the German language.
When he was nineteen years of age, feeling a strong
desire to visit Salonica, where his family had been massacred, he went and remained a short time with the Jews
in that place   While he was there, Joseph Wolff (whom
96




MESHULLAM.o                   97
he had never seen before) came into their synagogue, on
tihe Sabbath, and began to address the Jews, on the subject
of Messiah and his kingdom. This enraged them so much
that they ejected him from the synagogue, and applied to
the Pasha to take his life, and he was apprehended.
Meshullam felt the most generous compassion for Wolff, and
visited the Pasha, and interceded in his behalf. He advised
him politely, to take heed as to his decision respecting him,
that he was of another and higher class of the Jews, who
only wished to reform some of their superstitious errors, and
moreover was an English subject. The Pasha thanked him
for this information, and released Mr. WV. But the Jews
were so incensed against him that his life was still in
danger, Perceiving this, he sent his servant to procure
horses, and himself escorted him by night beyond their
reach.
Meshullam was still a firm believer in the faith of his
fathers, and soon after proceeded to Jerusalem, where he
remained three years. He acquired the Arabic language,
and with great difficulty searched out the land, and became
familiar with each dear locality mentioned in the Scriptures.
This required great courage, energy, and endurance, as the
state of the country was then much more fearful than at
present. He desired to fulfil his father's original design,
but felt a peculiar restlessness of spirit, without a purpose
or a home, and resolved to extend his travels. IHe visited
the Levant, Turkey, Persia, the East Indies; Arabia,
Egypt, Palestine and Jerusalem the second time, Franc e,
Germany, Prussia, Austria, Russia,~: Sweden, Norway,
Great Britain, the United States, North and South America, and the West Indies.  Wherever he went he sought
to acquire the language, and now speaks thirteen fluently.
He finally returned to London, and soon after accidentally
heard that Joseph Wolff was to preach in a certain chapel.
Though he had never visited a place of Christian
worship he felt a curious desire to see Mr. IW., and accordingly went to hear him. Soon after he entered, Mr. W.
espied him, and exclaimed to the audience: "' There is the
young man who saved my life, of whom I have told you,"
9




98                 NARRATIVE OF
and compelled him to come forward and take a seat near
him.  After listening to an animated discourse on the subject of the coming of Christ and his kingdom, M. retired
with mingled sensations; and the inquiry was then first
started in his mind, "Can it be that JEsus of Nazareth
is the Messiah of our Scriptures "'  This conviction followed him, and afterwards, wherever he went, he sought
every secret opportunity to hear Christ preached.
On leaving London he went to Italy, and at Genoa he
married the eldest daughter of a Jewish banker of wealth
and influence. There he commenced business operations,
which he prosecuted with success, and was much esteemed
by his father-in-law  and the Jews generally.  His two
eldest sons, Elijah and James, were born at Genoa. As
he was retiring from Christian service at the English Consul's, one day a Jew discovered him, and persecution
immediately followed.  His father-in-law was frantic, and
closely interrogated him. M  could not deny his convictions,
although he had never communicated with Christians, and
was scarcely established in the faith of Jesus. Such was the
excitement that soon prevailed against him, that he was
obliged suddenly to break up his establishment, at a great
pecuniary loss, and flee to Leghorn, where he again commenced business, was prosperous, and secretly heard the
preached word.  After a time, however, his father-in-law
pursued him, in order to take from him his wife and sons.
Not being able to persuade or coerce his daughter, he
exposed I's apostacy to the Jews in Leghorn. Persecutions, more bitter than he had hitherto encountered, now
obliged him, though in the winter season, to leave Leghorn
at a great sacrifice of his property. He then sought a
refuge in Tunis; but on his arrival there he was unable to
procure either a house or rooms for his accommodation.
After making every effort he finally obtained an open
OUT-HOUSE of an English resident.  This afforded little
protection from the rain; but after covering the roof with
coarse oil-cloth, he placed therein his dear wife, in feeble
health, and his little ones, together with his merchandise
mcnd baggage. Their situation was so uncomfortable that




MESHULLAM.                    99
he soon projected building a house. The season was
unpropitious, and there were no boards, timber, or stone,
to be obtained in the city.  In the absence of these he
contrived a mixture of pebbles and mud, which he moulded
with his packing boxes, and secured a roof with bamboos,
covered with heavy oil-cloth, of which he providentially
had a supply. He thus, in a short time, secured a residence for his family.  Though his means had become
greatly reduced by the sudden breaking up and sacrifice
of his two former establishments, he again began to succeed in mercantile pursuits.
About this time he became fearful of Jewish influence
upon his sons, and hearing of a Christian missionary (F.
M. Ewald,) who was about returning to England, he applied to him to take charge of them, and place them in a
Christian school -in London. Mr. Ewald was surprised,
and exclaimed, "But you are a Jew; how can this be?"'
Mr. Meshullam answered, "Though I am esteemed such,
I desire my sons to be Christians." This was his first
confession to a Christian. After his children were gone,
the Jews in Tunis understood his position, and the fire of
persecution again kindled around him to such an extent
that he was obliged to leave suddenly, and removed to
Malta, where he hoped to enjoy the protection of the
British government.  So great had been this last sacrifice
cf property-that he was unable longer to follow his former
business. In his early travels, several merchants had sent
by him, to different places, for rare dye-stuffs, and several
valuable receipts had thus come into his possession. In
his present extremity he improved this knowledge by setting up a dyeing establishment, which was surprisingly
patronised, not only at Malta, but also by merchants and
manufacturers in different ports in the Mediterranean, and
he succeeded in a great variety of the choicest colors.
At Malta he became acquainted with Mr. Gobat, the
present Bishop of Jerusalem, who had not then received
orders in the church. They became much attached to
each other, and Meshullam insisted on his baptizing himself and wife, who sympathized with him in the hope of




100                NARRATIVE OF
the Gospel of Christ. Mr. Gobat hesitated on account of
his want of authority, but at length yielded to his desire.
After some time his new occupation so seriously affected
his health that he was obliged to relinquish it; after which
he resolved to leave Malta, and settle finally in Jerusalem.
Mr. Gobat and his English friends proposed his accepting
a situation in connection with the Mission at that place,
which would afford him a comfortable living. This he
steadily declined, saying that he could not conscientiously
eat the bread that might be given to a more worthy agent,
so essential in such a holy cause, and that he would cast
himself wholly on the Lord, whose kind providence had
so long supported him.
On his arrival at Jerusalem he found the city destitute
of almost every comfort and convenience requisite to an
European family.  He received, about this time, a small
legacy inherited by the will of his wife's father, (a mere
pittance to that which she should have received,) and
conceived the idea of furnishing the European residents
with the necessaries of life. He imported furniture, groceries, and merchandise, of various kinds, from  Malta,
England, etc.  For some time he succeeded so well, that he
finally sent to London for a large and choice supply, in
which he invested most of his capital. This expensive
cargo arrived' safely in Beyroot. His agent there put them
on board of two open Arab craft, without any responsible
person to take charge of them, and, with the exception of
two barrels of potatoes, they were all lost in the surf near
Jaffa. He soon received the intelligence, and hastened to
Jaffa to learn the circumstances of his loss. He returned
with the potatoes to his family; but a hot fever was raging
in his veins, which prostrated him for a long time, with
little hope of life. Meanwhile a person having a small
claim against him, seized upon and took possession of his
store, and sold out its choice effects at an entire sacrific
which, with other expenses and extortions during his long
illness, completed his ruin, and left him without bread.
HIis wife endeavored to console him, and assured him that
God was still the same, and would surely provide. One




fESIULLAM.                   1Q01
barrel of the potatoes was opened, on which for some time
they principally subsisted.  There was a small piece of
waste soil connected with M's residence, which, as his
strength slowly revived, he determined to plant with the
remaining potatoes.  This was a mnere exlperiment, as no
vegetables had succeeded in the city, and potatoes were
unknown in Palestine. A large sum had been yearly
appropriated to the Mission for the support of a garden
for the benefit of their hospital, and although they had,
with the assistance of skilful gardeners, made every effort,
they had entirely failed. When he began he was so weak
that he was often obliged to sit down.  His third son,
Peter, a small lad, said: "Father, I will help you;" and
really assisted him much, until the whole plat was slowly
planted.
While these were growing, the season of the pilgrims
(Easter) filled the city to overflowing with visiters. An
English nobleman arrived with his family, and was unable
to procure lodgings for them. In his extremity he was
directed to M., who, since his arrival at Jerusalem, has
ever been of great service to the European residents, the
BMissions, and travellers generally, on account of his correct
knowledge of the place, and the different languages spoken
there.  This gentleman sought his assistance; and NI.
generously offered him his whole house, and removed his
family into a small, uncomfortable room, adjoining, assisted
him in all his arrangements for visiting different and distant localities, and in his consequent intercourse with the
Arabs. This was so appreciated by the gentleman that he
paid him liberally, and encouraged him to hire a larger
house, and open it for the accommodation of European
travellers. He left him all his travelling furniture, and
sent him more from Beyroot on his way home, as furniture
is extremely expensive and difficult to be obtained in Jerusalem.  This was the commencement of his hotel, which
he has gradually improved.  He has kept it for several
years with great success, and the approbation of all.
But to return to his experiment in cultivation, to which
such repeated and strange providences had driven him.
9:*




102                  NAiRRATIVE OF
To the astonishment of his neighbors, his potatoes grew
and yielded a most abundant crop, from which, after using
for his family, and reserving for seed, he realized the sum
of fifty guineas! I  I  He felt as if God had spokeit, and received his success as directly from  his hand.  Meshullam
believes in the personal coming and reign of Christ, and
his kingdom  at hand.  He is waiting and watching the
fulfilment of the Prophetic Scriptures, in reference to the
return of a remnant of his brethren, the justification of
the sanctuary, and the restoration of the land. He then
began to reflect more seriously on this token of the Lord's
willingness to bless the cultivation of the soil, which has
been so long desolate.  As he was riding one day in the
vicinity of Bethlehem, near the Pools of Solomon, he discovered a rich valley, in an uncultivated state, with the
different kinds of native fruit, the fig, pomegranate, and
vine, growing untrained.  It was also watered by a large
and living fountain.  On inquiry he ascertained that the
owners, having murdered their neighbors some years before, and being unable to pay the price of blood, according to the Turkish law, had fled the country.  M. went
to the Pasha, and paid the stipulated sum; he sent for
the banished to return, and gave them half the soil, and
entered into a continuous lease for the remainder, paying
them a small sum yearly.  This is the only way in which
Europeans can legally obtain possession of the soil.  He
provided them  seed for their part, and employs them  as
laborers on his own, and has thus become their benefactor,
and secured their confidence.  This Was in 1845, since
which time he constantly  acknowledges the hand of
God in his  nIp'lreced7ented success.  He now raises five
crops in a yea r!, of different kinds of European vegetables,. As some have been surprised at the statement that the soil is
capable of producing FIVE crops of vegetables in a yeas', I here insert
the copy of a little memorandum, which I wrote at the time, from
Mr. Meshullam's lips, as to the alternations and kinds of vegetables,
and the months producing them.
He-said, "' with irrigation I can raise five crops of vegetables in a
year." I then asked himh to repeat their names, order and time, and




IESHULLAM-INC IDEN TS.               103
most of which were unknown in Judea before.  He raises
two crops without irrigation, during the wet season, and
three during the dry, through the plentiful supply of water
from  the fountain.  His first crop he dedicated to the
Lord, and distributed it among the poor Jews, although
he might have realized a large stun by its disposal in the
city.  He has also obtained by lease, a vineyard and
several fields of wheat and grain, about three-quarters of
a mile distant, in the valley above the Pools.
In "Solomon's Castle," a few rods distant from  the
Pools, he finds shelter for his laborers and cattle, the inside area being large enough for them all, the outside walls
still remaining entire. He has great difficulty in obtaining seeds, and any field, fruit, or garden seeds that would
be useful for food, would be of exceeding value to him.
The destitution of vegetables, and the abject poverty of
many of the most devout Jews, speak the urgency of this
need. IHe has just received liberty from the Pasha to
build a small house in " Artos," (the name which the Arabs
give to the Valley of Bethlehem,) and has resolved to dispose of his hotel and remove thither with his family trusting alone in God, to protect him from the wild Arabs, and
the many jealousies opposing his course among professing
religious sects in Jerusalem. We will only add a few of
many  inciccnts that came to  our knowledge, while
residing intimately two months in his interesting family,
last autumn:1. After the first crop of potatoes in his garden, in
the city, he began to clear the soil of its many stones, and
for this purpose commenced digging a deep pit in the
midst, in which to deposit them; but he had only dug a
few feet before his servant, by a heavy stroke, broke into
a covered arch, in which, to his joy and surprise, he discovered a deep reservoir of water. This afterwards proved
hie replied: "In October, I plant potatoes; in January, carrots or beets;
inl April, potatoes again; in July I get beans in 28 days. ALSo,
vanother crop of beans in August.
Without water, I can raise two crops yearly. In April, I plant
cauliflowers and cabbage; or in December, wheat, barley, oats, or
potatoes."




104                   INCIDENTS.
to be an unfailing fountain, from which, in times of drought
in the dry season, he has sold to the Pasha and his soldiery,
and the Turks, (as water is sold in the city at such times,)
but he gave it freely to his poor brethren, the Jews, besides watering his garden abundantly, giving drink to his
horses and donkeys, and other family uses.  This blessing
he receives as peculiarly from the Lord.
2. When he arrived in Jerusalem in 1840, it was very
difficult to obtain good bread, and European residents and
travellers suffered much on this account.  The wheat is
poorly cleaned from the ground threshing, and is ground
between two rude stones, as in ancient times. This is done
principally by WOMEN; the flour is coarse, and, being
destitute of suitable bolting-sieves, the bran is only p artially
separated.  Meshullam had brought with him fine sieves
and bolting-cloths from Malta. With the help of an Arab
he built a stone oven with his own hands, and thus furnished good bread for his family. The wife of a missionary, who was in the habit of visiting them, was much
pleased with their bread, and entreated, as a favor, that
he would supply her with a loaf daily. Other families
soon interceded in like manner, and were also supplied;
but the demand increasing beyond his means, he conceived
the idea of setting up a bake-house, to employ two of his
destitute brethren, as there is no work they can get in
Jerusalem.  With great difficulty he taught two of them,
and built them an oven, advanced money to buy wheat,
and continued, with strange patience, to assist them, till
they now obtain a good living, and supply the city with
excellent bread. A great contrastto the previous destitution.
3. Meshullam having need of much wheat for his establishment, the Arabs were in the habit of bringing it to him
from distant villages. In the year 1843 they brought
an unusual supply.  He. refused none that came, until
he had a large room entirely filled, and his wife feared he
should never dispose of it. Just at this time a singular
phenomenon appeared in the sky, (the reputed comet, regarding which there were so many speculations in Europe
and America at that time;) this so much alarmed the in



INCIDENTS.                  105
h:abitants of Palestine, that they decided that a great famine
v.as near.  The price of wheat began accordingly to rise,
and such was the panic that MI. was entreated by many to
sell his store. The Pasha offered five times its first cost,
but he refused. The English families wanted it also, but
he still retained it, until the distress became dreadful
among the poor Jews. MI. then sent them word to come,
and sold to each of them one measure of wheat at the low
wholesale price which he gave for it, until all was exhaused,
reserving only a few measures for himself. Hie lost much,
as he gave them good measure, and had received scant
measure from the Arabs.  Soon after, by the time the
mneasure was consumed among the poor, the panic ceased,
and wheat was plentiful.
4. At another time, when the rain set in so early, that
it prevented the mountain Arabs from bringing into the
city the usual supply of charcoal for the winter, it occasioned great suffering. The Pasha had every camel load
that came to the gates seized for his establishment and
soldiery. In this extremity Meshullam  rode out to the
mountains, and bought twenty camel loads of charcoal,
and came with them to the gates. The guard demanded it,
but M. refused, and went to the Pasha, who still insisted
on having it. M. said: " You have encouraged me to keep
a house for travellers, and I must have this charcoal to cook
their food." The Pashayielded, and M. secured it, and afterwards divided all he could spare among his poor brethren.
He advanced several a little money, and told them to go outside with donkeys, and buy charcoal in small quantities,
and retail it in the city, and thus a number still obtain their
living.
5. An Arab Sheik, who resided in the vicinity of Meshullam's farm, was moved with great envy as he watched his
success, and seemed inclined to do him all the injury in his
power. The seed wheat of M. is much superior to that of
the Arabs, having taken great pains to clean it from the
wild seeds that are often mixed with it. One season this
Shiek was destitute of seed, and applied to i. to supply
him, to which M. readily consented, requiring a smaller




1 06                 I[NC IDENTS.
share of the crop than the law of the Pasha allows in such
cases. The Sheik's crop was unusually abundant that year,
but when he came to return to M. the stipulated measure,
he found it nearly half composed of dirt and small pebbles,
so that it was worth very little to hin. lMrs. M. remonstrated with the Sheik, and told Lim that they had given
choice wheat'and good measure, and that such conduct
was unjust in the sight of God, and he could not prosper
in such a course. In. a week after 119 of his flock of
sheep strangely sickened, and died. Some of the friendly
Arabs told him that it was on account of his dishonesty to
MI. He still, however, continued his opposition. Soon
after this, his wife suddenly died; he married again, and
this wife in a short time became blind. M. obtained
leave from the Pasha to build a house at Artos, and went
with some masons to commence. The Sheik thought he
had M. now in his power (as the Turkish law prohibits any
European building;) he saddled his favorite donkey, and
rode over with his attendants to forbid him. He left his
donkey to feed at a little distance on the side of the hill,
and while he was angrily denouncing M. and rejecting every
explanation, one of his servants came running to tell him
that his donkey had fallen down among the rocks, and
broken his neck; a most singular occurrence! Some present remarked that it was because of his persecutions of
n. He retired greatly chagrined. Undeterred, however,
in his malicious purpose, he went to Jerusalem to enter
suit against him. In opening his case the Pasha inquired:
" Why do you oppose this man? has he injured our country? has he pulled down or destroyed anything? Has he
not, ever since he came among us, been a benefit to our
people, by his industry and constant efforts to build up?
Let hinm builcd; and if I hear of any further opposition from
yourself or others, it will be followed by severe punishment."  The Sheik was overawed, and will dare no longer
to afflict M.
6 Another Arab neighbor, with the same feelings of
enmity, sought in every secret way to injure him.  Three
times Meshullam discovered him making depredations on




INCIDENTS,                  107
his farm, and reproved, and then forgave him. At length,
gaining confidence in his clemency, the Arab made a gap
in M.'s wall, and let in his goats and sheep, to the great
injury of some of his choicest plants. M. thought he would
then appeal to the Pasha, that he might be more thoroughly
reproved. After the Pasha had heard the testimony of
M.'s Arab laborers, he was highly incensed against the
offender, and determined to fine him a large sum. To this
M. strongly objected, saying that he was willing to forgive
him this fourth time, if he would promise not to trespass
again. The Pasha then insisted that he should pay the
whole amount of damages. M. would not permit this, but
said that he wanted no money, but only peace. The Pasha
then became vexed at M. and ordered the man to prison.
M. remained in the court a short time, talking with the
Pasha, and then so earnestly entreated that the prisoner
should be released,.that he complied. The prison was again
unlocked, and the Arab was brought into their presence.
The Pasha reprimanded him severely, assuring him that
through the intercession of M. he was liberated, but threatened him that he would surely fine him heavily for all
preceding offences, and imprison him beside, if he heard
of any repetition of annoyance to M.; adding, that he was
ashamed of him as a Mussulman, standing in such dark
contrast with this Christian! who had so often forgiven hinm.
7. At the return of the locusts, one year, they were
unusually numerous and destructive. They literally darkened the air, and wherever they settled they consumed
every green thing. This season Meshullam's garden in the
city, and his fields at Artos, were unusually promising, and
he trembled before the Lord as to the result. Their approach drew near, and, although he had never heard of a
remedy, he conceived the idea of making a great smoke in
his garden. Having no wood, he took old clothes and rags
as a substitute, and made a fire in the centre. He then
left it, and rode out of the city to see the fate of Artos,
which he found unscathed, the locusts having flown over
that deep valley and settled on many Arab fields on the
hills adjacent, entirely destroying them. He returned to




108                 INCIDENTS,
the city, the black cloud hovering there, and found that the
smoke had been successful; his garden was spared, and
the locusts had fallen a foot deep in many places near.This great deliverance he attributes entirely to the interference of the Lord.
8. His love and endurance towards his poor and unbelieving brethren is very great. It is his habit to distribute
loads of vegetables and greens among them, in their
times of greatest need; and they often come to him for
advice and assistance. He has been the means of opening several ways by which many individuals have obtained
a support, and a number of intelligent converts were first
moved by his ACTS of love to confess to him their convictions, and listen to his earnest entreaties. to embrace the
truth, and are now hopeful Christians.
9. A pious gentleman from England, en route for India,
put up at Meshullam's hotel some weeks. He had two
Jewish servants with him, who went with him to India.After a long time these Jews returned, with a letter from
the gentleman desiring MI. to receive them into his house,
and keep them until he should hear from him again. He
stated that his reasons for such a request was the state of
their minds, which he supposed to be much exercised on
the subject of Christianity. M. received them kindly, gave
them  a room, and fed them at his own table. They remained, going out and coming in, eating and drinking, nuft
offering to assist MI. in his many duties, neither showing
the least concern for their salvation. They drank mue h
wine, and found fault with their food. At length M. heai d
that they had obtained money for dissipations through
credit of being with him! He was much tried to know his
duty, fearing to quench the last hope of their conversion,
and having great pity for them. When they first came
they professed a desire to go to Damascus, so he conceived
the plan of fulfilling it, after they had remained with him
about a year. He hired horses and a guide, supplied them
with provisions, and had some difficulty in getting them
peaceably away. After they were gone he went round the
city and ascertained that they had accumulated a great




INCIDENTS.                  109
debt in his name. Every poor person that had sold them
clothing, shoes, and other necessaries, he repaid; but their
bills for wine, spirits, etc., he declined. He never heard
from the gentleman.
10. Upon one occasion, when he had need of a head
waiter, an Italian applied for the situation, professing
great experience. Meshullam asked him what religion he
professed; he answered, " the Roman Catholic." M. then
told him to repeat the Lord's Prayer; but he could not.M. looked anxiously in his face and said, " You are a Jew;
oh, never be ashamed to own your people!"  The man
then confessed that he was an Israelite, and entered into
service'with him. The first day showed that he knew
nothing about serving tables.  M. then tried him in different positions in his hotel, but found him incapable in
all. Hle sent him to his private house, a few steps distant,
to see if Mrs. NI. could do anything with him.  She ascertained that he had once learned the tailor's trade.  She
procured cloth, had it cut out, and set him about making
some clothes for himself, as he was most destitute. This
occupied him a long time; after which he showed no disposition to be useful in any way, and manifested a want
of all religion. After keeping him through the fall and
winter, M. strove to rouse his energies to seek some elnployment, to which he showed great reluctance. M. then
raised him a purse of about five pounds from his visiters,
MI. adding one pound unknown to Mrs. M., while she at
the same time gave another, without his knowledge. Still
the poor little man would not go, saying, " What can I do
with this money?" and pushed it from him. M. at last persuaded him, took horses, and went himself with him to
Jaffa, obtained lodgings and employment with a tailor for
him, and returned home with a happy conscience.
1 1. A gentleman arrived at his hotel from Egypt by the
way of the desert, with the usual attendants, a dragoman,
(which is the name for an interpreter and agent,) and several
muleteers. After the baggage was conveyed to his room, the
gentleman missed a carpet bag, containing three hundred
pounds. He immediately called Meshullamr and informed
10




HO1                 INCTIDENTS.
him of his loss, and said, (' It must be the dragoman, who
is a young Jew, whom I found in Alexandria."  This
grieved M., and he responded: " Have you any reason for
this suspicion?" The gentleman could give none. M. then
offered to take the affair into his own hands. lie went out
and questioned the Jew, whom he found to be an interesting youth, who solemnly asserted his innocence. He sought
and interrogated the muleteers; being dissatisfied with their
answers, he took them before the Pasha. After some examination, the whip was applied to one who seemed the
most confused, who, after a few strokes, confessed that he
-had secreted it in a village, a few miles back; from whence
M. sent and recovered it. M. took the bag to the gentleman, and seriously reproved him for so carelessly injuring
the reputation of one who had no other support. He then
took the youth aside, and asked him why he had chosen an
occupation so liable to disrepute. The young man replied
that he had no other resource  M. perceiving that he was
intelligent, and feeling a great pity for him, said " If you
will leave this service, you are welcome to remain with me
until the Lord shall provide some better way."  This kind
offer the youth gladly accepted. He engaged with M. at
liberal wages, and remained some-time in his employ. His
mind became interested and awakened, and he received the
faith of Jesus Christ. M. perceiving that he possessed
considerable talent, was successful in interesting several
friends in England in his behalf, who sent for him and
placed him at school and then at college, where he well
improved his opportunities. He is now a travelling missionary among his brethren in the East.
12. While Meshullam resided in Tunis, a Jew was unjustly cast into prison, with no hope of liberation, as he had
no friend to be security for him. M. accidentally heard
of it, and though he must hazard much, he determined to
procure his release, as the confinement was such as to endanger life. With considerable difficulty he effected it, and
the Jew for a time seemed very grateful. He often visited
M., and at length became attached to Mrs. M.'s female
domestic, whom they had brought with them there. They




INCIDENTS,                  111
were married, commenced housekeeping, and had two children. Meanwhile the Jew occupied himself in pawnbroking, and dealt with great injustice and extortion. For
this, Mr. and Mrs. M. often faithfully reproved him. The
more hardened the Jew became in this course, the more
strict and legal he was in every outward observance of the
Jewish ritual, which greatly surprised MI. One night,
when he was absent from home, some of the inhabitants
who had been defrauded, broke into the house of the Jew,
and murdered his wife and children. In the greatest agony
of soul, he came to tell M., and when Mrs. M. strove to
improve the opportunity to persuade him to alter his ways,
supposing his afflictions had come in judgment upon him,
he cried out "Oh, no, no; not for that alone; but it is
because I have read the New Testament, and have been
convinced that Jesus is our Messiah, and yet have not
confessed him i!"  After deep repentance he obtained forgiveness, and, by an humble and consistent life afterward,
proved his sincere faith in our Lord Jesus Christ, which
was more and more confirmed by the love, and testimony
of IM.
13. Another poor Jew, in Jerusalem, was living near the
house of a rich Mussulman, who sought every opportunity
to beat and oppress him. One day Meshullam happened
to pass by, and witnessed the sufferings of his poor brother.
IIe immediately interfered, and asked, " Why do you abuse
this poor man?  What evil hath he done?"  And added,
that he would complain to the Pasha, if he should repeat
such conduct.  The Jew, with the greatest earnestness,
entreated M. to desist, saying, "I am a poor Jew, and the
time of our deliverance is not yet come; God is angry with
us, and I would patiently suffer all His righteous displeasure."  M. told me this to illustrate the faith and humility
of some of the poor.
14. Some few years since, when the English Mission
were about erecting their church on Mount Zion, they were
obliged to remove some forty feet of debris, or rubbish, so
as to place the foundations sure upon the rock. To do
this, they must need many common laborers.  Meshullain




112                  INCIDENTS.
applied to them to employ the poor Jews, who were in
such perishing need. Many had reported and believed the
scandal, that the Jews in Jerusalem would not do servile
labor, even if they had employment, which report has closed
the hearts of many professing Christians against them.
This objection was now made, but M. insisted on the experiment. After some hesitation, they were employed, and to
the surprise of every one, several hundred more than were
needed offered themselves for a small pittance per day.Meshullam was, however, finally disappointed in his kind
design, for they could not work on the Sabbath, (the
Seventh day) neither on their feast days.  So the architect, after using them awhile, dismissed them, and employed the Arabs.  This case is only mentioned to refute
the common idea of the indolence of the Jews.
15. A gentleman from Europe, who is an Israelite of
great wealth, and feels a kind regard for the state of the
poor Jews in Jerusalem, visited them  last summer and
contributed largely toward their relief. IHe had numerous
travelling attendants, and one, a Christian gentleman of
some distinction, lodged at Meshullam's hotel. It seemed
to be the object of his benevolent patron, if possible, to
commence some establishment, or make an arrangement for
the employment and support of the distressed poor among
his people. In looking round in vain for a capable and
proper agent, and some plan of relief, that such an agent
with his means, would carry out with success, his discerning mind could only see Jileshullanm! whose constant kindness and- aid to the Jews had reached his notice. He,
therefore, sent proposals to M. by this C(hristian, that if
he would return to the faith of his fathers and take charge
of the work, he would make him a fortune, and he who
promised, was abundantly able to perform.  NM. calmly
replied: "Tell Sir  ~  that I have made my fortune by
confessing Jesus C(hrist.
These are only a few of many incidents of the same
character, which came to my knowledge while residing
with him at Bethlehem and at Jerusalem. Upon one
occasion some English travellers obtained for him the




NARRATIVE OF MIESIHULLAM.            113
appointment of Consul at Jaffa, which he declined   At
another time he was offered a considerable salary, in connection with the Mission as general interpreter; but he
still chooses to labor on in this humble way, and trust alone
in God.
It is surprising that:such self-sacrificing efforts should
excite any but the kindest feelings in the hearts of professing Christians in his vicinity; but, instead of sympathy
and aid, he is the object of envy and cruel prejudice, and
seems struggling alone in this path of duty and sacrifice.
To illustrate this, I would add, that the week before we
left, a delegation from one of the convents (not Roman
Catholic) offered the Pasha 7,000 piastres to stop Meshullam's cultivation in Artos!
We have been constrained by the love of Christ to give
this relation of what we have seen and heard, being fully
convinced that the Lord has been, in a peculicar manner,
sustaining this true Israelite. He is the first Christian
Hebrew who has succeeded in cultivating the soil of his
fathers since the dispersion. Through his sutstainment and
blessing we believe that God has a design of opening an
humble way of escape and salvation to a "remnant" of
his ancient people.  This cannot be effected by direct
preaching or other spiritual effort i but if Meshullam had
means supplied  to extend his farming operations, he
would give his starving brethren employment, and hundreds would gladly offer themselves to labor with him at
two and a half piastres per day (the same as five and a.half pence, or eleven cents,) which would bring them under
the influence of his Christ-like love and example. It would
make them independent of the charity fund of the Rabbies, to which they are now in bondage, and which is
scarcely sufficient to sustain life in the coarsest and most
frugal manner. Those who are already inquiring, and
balf convinced of the truth among the pious poor, would
have a refuge, and be placed in a position where they
might afterwards be reached and won by the love of
Christ.
It must be distinctly understood that Meshullam makes
10*




114         NAiARRATIVE OF M!ESHULLAIM.
no appeal for himself, and will receive nothing; for the
Lord has so prospered him in his recent course, that he
is helping others; but he is willing, without r'elard, to
apply any assistance that the friends of Christ may send
to relieve his poor brethren and win them to the truth, for
the preparation of "a remnant," to meet the Lord at his
coming.
On returning I muentioned his case to a circle of believers
in England, who have become interested for him, and will
contribute something to hold up his hands in this laborious,
disinterested work of the Lord. Many Christians profess
great sympathy for the Jews, and are waiting, I humbly
trust, for "the set time" to favor Zion, when God will
surely open their way to show the sincerity and efficiency
of their love. If there are any who deserve their sympathy
and aid, it must be the devoted and suffering poor in
Jerusalem. Here is a simple door which providence alone
has unsealed and opened to such, by which the charities
of sincere and willing hearts may be sent to them, and
most judiciously applied by one of their own brethren.
Whatever time, suffering, and sacrifice this humble report has cost the writer, is fraeely geiven, in the most perfect
confidence that the same love which commenced this
work in Meshullam's hands will succeed, and bring it to a
blessed accomplishment. If any thing beyond its expense
is realized from the sale of this work, it will be faithfully appropriated to the same object. I will add here the
testimony of disinterested men and Christians, as to the
general character of M1. Also, the testimony of one who
has known him for many years, an intimate friend to whom
M. is much attached, who says, "I am sure he will make
the best use of it, "-which together with his own untiring example of self-sacrifice to the same object, is sufficient to satisfy the willing mind that this is no common
appeal, but a " CRY" from Jerusalem-" Come over and
help us."




TE,,-TISIONTA Ld' —.              115
THE TESTIMONY OF TRAVELLERS.
The following we copied from  his dining-room  album,
which contained many other testimonials:
MR. EDWARD WILLITNG,
MIa. T. LINDSAY GILLESPIE,  Philadelphia, U. S. America,
From Cairo era route to Damascus.)
March 10th, 1849.
After a five days' residence at Mr. Meshullam's house, we have
great pleasure in expressing our satisfaction with the attentioa:
which we have received.
June 6th, 1849.
I shall not, I trust, soon forget how much I am indebted to you
for arrangements with dragomen, muleteers, Arabs, and all the
necessary evils of this country, when your disinterested judgment
did what I could not manage fobr myself.
WM. JAMES WVOODCOCK.
JERUSALEMI, November 14th, 1848.
The Rev. F. N. Allen, Chaplain in the Honorable East India
Company's Service, and Mrs. Allen, spent nearly a month in Mr.
M.'s hotel, during the first of which they were much indebted to
him and Mrs. Meshullan- for their attentions during severe illness.
They found the hotel the cleanest and most comfortable they have
met during a tour in Egypt and Syria, and derived great advantage from the assistance of Mr. Meshullam in all their transactions
with the natives of the country, and in preparations of their journey
through the desert to Cairo.                   F. N. ALLEN.
JERausLEM,, Hotel Book, October 23d, 1848.
All the officers of the United States Expedition to the Dead Sea
have at different timnes lodged in this house, and are unanimous in
the expression of their entire satisfaction in every respect; inde.
pendent of the faithful. performance of the duties of a host, 1M1r.
Meshullam has been exceedingly friendly and serviceable.
(Signed)                    W. F. LYNCH, Comma~nder.
The following testimony is from  the gentleman who
took the charge of his two sons from Tunis to London:
JERUSALEn, October 29th, 1849.
I have great pleasure in testifying, that I have known Mr. Meshullam and his family since the year 1835; that they were
brought to the knowledge of Christ Jesus, and that they were
subsequently baptized at Malta, 1840, by the present Bishop of
Jerusalem. Mr. M. and his family settled in the Holy City in
1840, and has endeavored to maintain himself and family by his




116                      LETTERS.
own industry. A short time ago he turned his attention to agri.
culture, and is now cultivating the ground, in which he has so
well succeeded, that he has resolved to devote himself entirely to
that occupation, and to give up his hotel, which he has kept for
several years in Jerusalem. Any assistance which Christian
friends might grant him, IN HIS LAUDABLE UNDERTAKING, is well
bestowed, and I am sure he will make the best use of it.
F. M. EWALD, Chaplain to the Right Reverend the
Lord Bishop of the Anglican Church at Jerusalem,
and lMissionary to the Jews in the Holy City.
LETTERS.
ELIJAH, the eldest son of M1eshullam, is attached to
his father, and seems truly to appreciate his position, and
the efforts he is making for the good of Israel.  Just before we left, he gave me a paper containing some of his
own thoughts respecting the good to be obtained by introducing industrial occupation in  agriculture among  the
Jews. He is a young man of promise and conscientious
uprightness, and his constant use of the Arabic language
in speaking and writing, will account for the difficulty of
his English style. The following is an extract from his
testimony:
"Honorable Friends: —These few lines, however imperfect their
language may be, are chiefly designed to encourage those benevo.
lent friends who, from hearty sympathy, seek the temporal and
spiritual welfare of the long-desolated Zion. That through your
aid the now (for centuries) alienated children of Abraham may be
roused, and encouraged to labor as the above-named Israelite, my
father, has done in the vineyards of our fathers. Most particularly now the change of events fully testify their approaching restoration to this land. For eighteen centuries their longing desire
and eyes have been fixed upon it, and its ancient possessors are
yet no more than strangers and -miserable captives.  The simplest
manner, conducive to this end, would give greater success to those
several communities who spend their exertions and means for the
support of their proselytes, if they would encourage the Jews, by
the same expenditure, to cultivate and rebuild their father land.
This would commence a work worthy to be appreciated and ex



LETTERS.                        117'
tended, by all those friends concerned for their eternal welfhre.
WVhat should inspire us more for their restoration than their pious
zeal, which constantly bedews with their tears the soil around the
broken fragments of their Temple-the soil which so many thousands of their forefathers have watered by their blood?  The suc.
cess of agriculture has been so advanced by these efforts, that five
crops [of different grains and vegetables] can be yearly gathered
with the greatest certainty, so that we can only trust that many
may be aided to follow my father's example, and with him share
the happy results. This will soon bring many of the desolate fa.
milies of the Jews, who now live in subterranean vaults and caves,
to seek this succor for their temporal relief. It is our fervent deo
sire that this enterprise may be extended for that people, who,
though afflicted for their disobedience, are still beloved by the
Almighty, who knows that we also are liable to the same, notwvithstanding our holiest exertions to be meet partakers and guests in
the heavenly Jerusalem, the throne of the Everlasting God and
our Redeemer Jesus Christ. With all your interest for this labor,
and your liberality for its promotion, never forget to pray for the
peace of Jerusalem, that the following Scripture may be yours:'They shall prosper that love thee.' "
"' ELIJAH MEStIULLAM,"
Since this narrative was first published, we have received two letters from  Meshullam; the last contains the
interesting intelligence, that he has indeed removed from
his successful hotel in Jerusalem, to the solitary valley of
Artos, near Bethlehem, and embarked his entire energies
and interest in this arduous labor of benevolence.  We
here subjoin extracts of each letter, but his long disuse
of English composition, represents him with great injustice:
J.ERUSALEM, March 20th, 1850.
"MqAy Dear Christian Friends: —I cannot but express an unreserved gratitude at the acknowledgment of your kind letter, which
reached me on the 17th inst., as we felt imuch concern at the
state in which you left Jerusalem. But we could not realize, that
we should be the objects of such sympathy and interest, in an
epoch when the true friends of Israel are so amazingly scarce.
Such disiniterestedness cannot but be highly gratifying, upon due
consideration of the eminent good which might, with assured suc.
cess, be performed to this once prosperous land, were our energetic
labours to meet with equal approbation from a few such friends as




118                        LETTERS.
you profess sincerely to be towards us." I' *   * X  e "in Jus.
tice to myself, I must not omit mentioning the bishop of Jerusalem,
as a conjoined firiend, who, like you, anxiously seeks the promotion of my enterprise. It is, however, evident that some deleterious stupor is blinding the minds of others, who, partially -informed of my. intentions, do not appreciate the benefit so clearly to
be derived froin you, by such an introduction of industrious labor
-as my affairs in. Artos have hitherto been extended with more
than apparent success. I trust you will not think me presuming,
if I herein mention my anxiety of enlarging this work, and my
son, Elijah, promises to forward to you the general accounts I
shall have to give about Artos, every favorable opportunity. Allow me to express my thankfulness for the seeds which I received,
inclosed in your letter, [some cabbage seeds, which I cemented with
gum Arabic, to the inside of our first letter from England,] and,
above all, for the mill you propose to commission through England
for me. As to Solomon, Elijah, since your departure, has tried
every possible way to relieve him, and the Doctor has administered
those remedies which have restored him to perfect health; and in
the meantime, I am trying with all my mind, to remedy his circumstances, and I will not fail to distribute discreetly, and according to necessity, any offerings that Christian friends will be led to
make." * * * X X *     " Permnit me to conclude with the conjoined
regards of myself and family, praying fervently that the entrusted
love you have towards us, may meet its due reward in the heavenly
Jerusalem of peace. Meanwhile, I shall not omit praying for all
those friends who are engaged and desirous of carrying onward the
effective welfare of Zion, by contributing to aid its children, again
to renew the building of its walls. Mrs. Meshullam, especially,
desires to be kindly remembered to you, and as a sister in the Lord,
truly sympathizes with your difficulties; she, however, rejoices at
the proposed prospect of'seeing you again in this city, not failing to
prize such truly Christian friendship. Do not fail to write, and
command me, in any way, by which I may prove serviceable to
you; and I trust, the next occasion to enlarge on the subject of
your devoted interest.    Believe us, your sincere friends.
JOHN MESHULLAM.
ARTos, August 21st, 1850.
Beloved Christian Friend -I bog to acknowledge the receipt of
your letter, by which I am led to expect a beneficial result to my
agricultural undertaking. It gave me great concern, that your
letter arrived in an ill condition, through the various quarantine
offices it passed, that I was unable fully to comprehend its contents.
Although at first sight, I gathered sufficient cause to convince me,
that you are prompted by no other than Christian beneficence, in
contriving to promote this enterprise, for which I never cease to




LETTERS.,                      119
beg the Almighty to recompense you and your dear conjoiners
abundantly. Before I pass on, to name the various hindrances and
perplexities, I have recently met in my humble efforts to promote
the good of this land, I feel dutifully bound to mention first, any
unlimited thanks for the influence you have so disinterestedly
exerted to lead other benefactors of Israel to favor, and contribute
towards the approaching restoration of Zion. To such loving
friends. I would quote the most appropriate passage of Scripture,
"They shall prosper that love thee." My confidence in the Lord's
promise of restoring his people, has increased to such a pitch of
reliance, that quick as may be this decision, I am, through your
instrumental influence, humbly led to concentrate my business to
this point, with hopes furthered by Christian sympathy, to secure
saccess. But to my correspondence. After having spent the half
of last winter under a tent, and finding it impracticable for me and
the serviceable animals for my agriculture to go on in such a posi.
tion, I proceeded to rear four rooms, as circumstances permitted, at
the lower end of the valley, economizing my labor by means of the
adjoining rocks. Having taken such an important decision. I
found it indispensably necessary to form habitations conducive to
that health and comfort, of which, as Europeans, we felt in need,
especially while removing my family to such a retired situation.
Thus, since your departure, I have been enabled to build these
rooms of sufficient extent, to hold my family and productions, which
was aided by the rocky excavation forming the right angular por.
tion of the building. At a little distance is situated a large stall,
for the protection of my oxen, sheep, and other domestic animals,
presenting in all a view, to recall a reverential reminiscence of the
golden age of our patriarchal forefathers, comprising also, the
tract of land which I occupy. I am happy to inform you, that
addicting myself and family to necessity's call, and taking a retros,
pect of my past cares and persecutions, I am led to hope that
they may here enjoy more peaceful and better days. Acceptable
as this information may be to you, and those conjoined friends, who
are desirous to promote Zion's welfare, it has not been received as
such by sectarian opinions here, who when informed of my intention of removing my family to Artos, protested against the pre.
carious positions to which I voluntarily exposed myself, as a re.
sponsible agent for living in a solitary valley, encircled by seven
savage and barbarous tribes. This is,.indeed, the real fact; but
GOD, the supporter, and help of his people, has mercifully conde.
scended to employ my reason, in leading these uncivilized people to
view in me, and also to daily confess, a superior and benefactor.
Thus difficulties have appeared seemingly to triumph, and drown
those cultivated hopes, which only your kind and friendly correspondence has hitherto kept alive. Discouraged, as truly might
have been, the most persevering mind, I verily confided in that
Providence, who, while winking at the intricate machinations of




12~0                     LETTERS.
men to oppose, says to the poor, " I will never leave thee, nor forsake
thee." Such, dear friend, is the present state of things; blessings
shall indeed rest on all those who favor Zion, and who amply seize
the present favorable opportunity to rebuild its walls. * * * * -
Respecting the mill, and various other articles which you and the
good intentions of friends have contributed to send me, they will
be received with the utmost acknowledgment of my unfeigned
thanks. * X * * *I As to your recommending me to employ Jews,
I am truly concerned to say, that my present insignificant means
will not allow me to admit the applications which they make. One
great difficulty in which I am at present involved, (by removing
his children from school in Jerusalem,) and that a vacancy, which
can only be filled by the kind interest of friends, is to send a person,
not only devoted to your correspondence, but also to be useful in
promoting the education of my little children, which will be the
only medium of counteracting the critical remarks of well disposed
sectarians. X  * ~    X These considerations, I beg to transmit to
you, and all Christian friends, who are interested in the behalf of
an Israelite, whose prayer is, that " THE LORD MAY SEND FORTH
LABORERS INTO HIS VINEYARD."  Begging an immediate answer,
allow me to inclose mine, and all my family's dutiful respect to you,
In hope that we shall again meet, to share the productions of our
own land.
Believe me, dear friend, your humble servant,
JOHN MESHULLAM.
The following is an extract from a letter, written by a
German soon after his arrival in Palestine.  It was publish by the Rhenish  I;Westphaiabm  Jeos' Society, and contains a detailed account of Mr. Meshullam's gardens and
farm  in the Valley of Bethlehem, and of the rapid improvement of the general state of things in that land.
It seems by his testimony, that he arrived in the winter,
a few months after we left Jerusalem; and that he at once
joined the young man, that we have mentioned in the
preceding journal, who commenced to labor in Meshullam's employ, in October, 1849.  He does not publish his
own name, or that of Meshullam, of whom  he speaks, as
a baptised and converted Jew, with whom they were conjointly engaged.
We learn by a letter from  Mr. M. that after these
German friends had labored with him awhile, and became
acquainted with his manner of irrigation, and adaptation




LETTERS.                       121
of the frequent crops, to the soil and climate, they were
anxious to extend their operations, and took land of the
neighboring Arabs, (to whom M. had at first restored their
forfeited right,) in another part of the valley, where they
are now  happily improving the soil.
"We arrived in health and safety in Jerusalem, and went of course
to the Brethren's House, where we werereceived with great kind.
ness. cWe found employment almost immediately.  Moller and
John found work in their trades (as mason and joiner,) and Stein.
born became a laborer. Gustav and his wife were appointed to the
New English Churchyard, where they have a large fine garden, free
lodgings, and a considerable annual income, 75 dollars (~11.) An
excellent young man from Alsace, who was formerly in the Brethren's House in Jerusalem, settled half a year ago in Artos, near
Bethlehem, in the gardens of Solomon, in the midst of Arabs. Conjointly with a baptized Jew in Jerusalem, he has farmed several
of the gardens, and some land, They have also built a house
there, although no good was prophesied for them; even the dear
Bishop Gobat thought the undertaking too hazardous; but they
have prospered beyond expectation. I at once joined this worthy
young man. At first, before we had got properly into order, we
found the weather anything but inviting, as it is frequently rainy
and cold. But now, in the pleasant spring, when everything looks
fresh and blooming, we find the locality most agreeable. I have
erected my tent and use it both by day and night, Steinborn and
his wife have also joined us here. We have already two cows
and intend to purchase some more.?
"This much we have already gained; all our neighbors, who are
Turks, are well disposed towards us. WTe have also several friends
in Bethlehem, where Christians and Turks live in good neighbor.
hood. We can leave our house open by day and night without
fear; as yet nothing has ever been purloined. In the beginning
we had sometimes to be absent for three days together in Jerusa.
lem; the house was left open, and entrusted to the Arabs; but
even then we lost nothing.''-"Moller has now also joined us at Artos.  Stables are being
erected for the cattle. We expect to earn our livelihood comfortas.
bly. No one of us desires to return. God turns his face again in
mercy to this country. The abundant rain of the two last years,
has again opened springs where for many years there were none,
and also the pools of Solomon -are full to overflowing. There are
three, one above the other, and each so large and deep, that the
largest steamboat might venture on it. The aqueduct constructed by
Solomon from thence, via Bethlehem, to Jerusalem, is now beiug
repaired. A Frenchman has sent mulberry seeds. As soon as our
prospects shall have yet filrther improved, colonists from Wurtecnm
11a




122                       LETTBRS,
berg and Alsace purpose settling here. There hlave now for two
years been four men here, deputed by them, with the same object
as brought us here. They have written home that people of property need not hesitate to come, as there is as much security
here as in any other country, probably. But poor people would
meet with some difficulties."
"An Arab works here for 3 sgr. (33d.) finding his own food; but
joiners and masons earn 20 sgr. (2s.) Food is extremely cheap,
especially flour, figs, eggs, rice, &c. With regard to larger
colonies, a locality near the sea is to be preferred, with a view to
exports. Twelve bushels of wheat cost in the market less than two
Prussian dollars (6d.); and the peasants have perhaps to sit a
whole day in the market, before they can sell so much. A pound
of potatoes, however, cost in Jerusalem often 2:sgr. (21d.) and at
the present time, for instance, none at all can be had. Vegetables,
likewise onions, carrots, beans, peas, celery, turnips, &c., are at
times very dear. The country round Jerusalem  is said to be the
most unfruitful part of Palestine, and yet barley and wheat grow
luxuriantly in the wretchedly cultivated soil, without any manure.
The harrow and roller are unknown; the light plough in use here
only rakes up a very little of the soil. On fruit land, which is not
irrigated, comparatively few weeds grow. I have not yet seen the
dangerous quick grass; but have noticed ten different kinds of
clover, which grow wild in our gardens and on the mountains. I
have planted in a corner six descriptions of the latter, and am
laughed at for planting weeds. From this you will be able to con.
elude, how well adapted the soil is for agriculture, and rearing of
catte."
" I have eleven bee-hives in Bethlehem. The bees are somewhat
smaller than in Germany, and their color is a greyish yellow, but
their qualities are not different. The fine weather and heavy dew,
and the multitude of flowers and blossoms, lead us to calculate on
a rich harvest, if they are properly tended, and God gives his
blessing. If, therefore, you have a mind to visit us in spirit, you
will, after having conle from Jerusalem to Bethlehem, past the
grave of Rachael and the well of Elijah, through fig and olive
gardens and vineyards, until you arrive in our beautiful valley,
find Moller employed on Masonry, Steinborn in digging, his wife
in making butter, and myself, perhaps in milking-as I am the
best hand at the latter, it becomes part of my occupation. Is it
not sweet to have to do with milk and honey in the Holy Land!"
"' But still we have many difficulties to encounter If we were
but masters of the language, we should get on much better. But
it is true that the emigration of single families is not advisable.
The ice must, however, be broken by some one. Last year there
were also two deputies here from America. In that country it is
proposed to establish here a colony of twelve families, for the benefit
of the Jews. In my opinion the question as to the possession of




LETTERS.                       123
money is of greater importance than the number of families. As
soon as the Arabs discover that they can derive profit from newr
comers, they suffer them  willingly to dwell among them. They
are well aware that the soil becomes more productive to them when
farmed by us, than when cultivated by themselves; and, therefore,
they readily leave us undisturbed. I have now rented garden land
to the amount of forty-five dollars, in order to make a fair trial of
what the soil canll produce with proper cultivation. As yet no spade
has been used; in consequence of the constant irrigation, the soil
has become too solid, and the wretched plough has only raked it
up for a few inches. Oats grow spontaneously everywhere, in the
gardens and on the mountains. I counted thirty ears sprouting out
of one corn; of barley, twenty. Barley and rye, also, frequently
grow wild. I have not yet met with buckwheat and rapeseed.
Among plants peculiar to the country, there is a kind of oil fruit,
from which good sweet oil and lamp oil can be prepared. The
Turkish wheat is roasted over charcoal, and is excellent if you
have once got used to the taste."
"Fruit is abundant as oranges, olives, paradise apples, pome
granates, &e. Beautiful dried figs are bought at ad. or I-d. the
pound. There are at least forty gardens close to ours, in which
there are above 1000 fig, peach, pomegranate, and pear trees. The
valley, which is on both sides enclosed between high mountains,
extends a distance of four hours' journey from the pools of Solomon to the Dead Sea. There are several opportunities for purchasing land; but as we do not yet know what may be our final
destination, we defer making any purchase. I shall, however, soon
get a flock of sheep, as the pasturage is every where free, and the
flock can be removed, if we leave. There is, also, every facility
for keeping goats, and you may have as many as you like."
" The heat is not excessive, and at present, a week after Easter, it
is on rainy days still somewhat cold. When we arrived in Jeru.
salem, the snow lay pretty deep, and at times there was a sharp
frost. A very mild winter in Germany is similar to the temperature here this year, except that the winter here is much shorter,
As yet we have not found the sun too hot, and we find the climate
in general extremely pleasant and healthy.  My own relative, and
Gustav, especially, look more full and healthy than ever; the chil.
dren, also, thrive excellently. Whoever can be satisfied, as the
country people here are, with bread, meal, eggs, oil, and milk, will
find the living here both wholesome and cheap. But a person of
many wants must bring a large supply of money, and even then,
perhaps, he may not get on. Artizans of every kind are to be
found in Jerusalem, where they are able to earn their livelihood.
New comers, however, would have to struggle with difficulties
before they can establish themselves in business. I can, therefbro
advise no one to come, unless an entire colony comes to settle here.'"Let, therefore, those who have at heart the well-being of this




124                       LETTERS.
country and its people, promote the work as far as they are able,
and rejoice in hope with us over Jerusalem, and the glorious
promises relating to this country, such as Is. lxvi; Ii. 3, 11, &c.;
Jer. xxxi: Ezek. xxxvi.: Joel, ii.; Amos. ix. 11, &c.; Micah vii.
20; Zeph. 3, 9, &c.; Zech. ii, 8, 14; Mal. iii. 16, &c.  Many of
these most precious promises begin already to be fulfilled; and who
can continue to doubt when we behold with our own eyes the zeal
of the whole world to bring succor to this country? From  England, France, Germany, and Russia, there are parties here for the
same purpose. America does not lag behind. A princess of the
Netherlands remained lately above three imonths in this country.
We long with much anxiety when the fulness of the Gentiles
shall have come in, and so all Israel shall be saved. (Rom. xi.
25, 26.) When believing Israelites shall be named priests of the
Lord, and ministers of' our God. (Is, lxi. 5, 6.) We shall consider
ourselves greatly honored in being permitted to be the ploughmenl
and vine-dressers. Until that time arrives, may God supply us
with courage and power, that we may not carry on his work negli.
gently, or suffer ourselves to be intimidated by difficulties."
"We consider the line of coast between Carmel and Jaffa, as pro.
posed by Mr. Consul Weber, of' Beyroot, best adapted for the estab.
lishment of' a colony. The fbur brethren from Wurtemburg and
Alsace, have, also, formerly travelled over the whole country,
and not found a better spot for the purpose. There are still
wells there, also sundry vaults, which would furnish shelter at
the first commencement; a considerable quantity of wood and a.
fertile soil. If the undertaking be but once set on foot, the colony
would soon receive additions from Wurtemburg and Alsace. But
let every one who resolves to go out, carefully calculate the cost
beforehand."
"I have observed, especially among the newly arrived colonists in
Smyrna (where, however, everything was pretty well prepared for
them,) that the women are exposed to many inconveniences, especially at the commencement of their residence here. Most women
are probably, when the plan is first started, not very willing to
leave home.  The husband persuades the wife, represents the
matter to her in the most favorable light, until, she, on her part,
can hardly await the time for departure.  If now even the journey
lhas its hardships, and after their arrival many wants go unsatisfied,
the wife not unfirequently reproaches her husband, as the people of
Israel did Moses in the desert, when they said:-"  Were there
no graves in Egypt?" or, "there we sat by the flesh pots."  I
know very well that there are many good souls, like Mary of old,
who in silent devotion thankfully accept all as from the hiand of'
their Savior. But in a colony of 500, or even of but fifty families,
there will always be some like the wives of Tobias and of Job.
Young and newly married husbandmen, and such as have been
accustomed to a life of mluch work and care, will succeed best in




LETTERS.                        125
the struggle of first starting. I would rather begin in the most
unfavorable spot with a few families, than with a large number in
the very best locality, as in the latter case you must expect discontent and dissension.  Money must however, on no account be
wanting."
" We find, in general, that God gives to each country its advan.
tages, as well as its disadvantages. But as in Holy Scripture this
country is called pre-eminently a good one. It surely must, also,
in reality be a good one."
Last autumn, Dr. P ——, of this city, in concert with a
German brother, who once resided three years in Jerusalem, mostly as teacher in Bishop Alexander's family, (the
present Bishop Gobat's predecessor,) wrote to the believing brethren in Germany, respecting our proposed effort for
the good of Israel in the holy land. An answer has been received, a translation of which he has kindly given, from
which we make the following extracts, confirming the
fact of a general and increasing interest, among the widely
scattered people of God, in' THE PLACE OF THE NAME
OF THE LORD OF  HIosTs."'
SHALLHUTTrE, COUNTY OF B3BCKMANG, WURTEMBERG, January 2 1851.
"Dear and esteeemedfriend in Christ:-To me also, teacher in this
place, and one of the least of the brethren in Christ was your
interesting letter sent, by the Christian brethren of Oberndorf and
Rudersburg, that I might also get acquainted with your efforts for
Palestine, as I am of the same opinion as themselves, about the
hopes and promises to Israel and his land. * * * Not only expecting
the glorious Advent, but believing the precious time predicted quite
near, especially as we have lived to see the year 1848, and its
events, and consequences.  I see plainly that your ideas are
grounded on the word of God, and also sent your letter to Fellback
where brother K. is well known, and where a great number of
Michael Hahn's brethren reside (a celebrated teacher of the coming
and kingdom of God.)"' Inclosed I send a letter of Prof. Paulus, who is director of a
scientific institute, a school for Evangelists of the inner mission
His views and labors incline to those of the old Moravians, while
we hold the confession of Luther, at present we are the despised
ones, and when the next revolution, that now already glimmera
under the ashes of the former, shall break out, we shall have our
lot with the persecuted ones.  Respecting your letter I would
repeat that we hold similar views with yourself, and it would




a26                       LETTERSo.
afford us great pleasure, if we knew of any way to further your
expectations.  We have thus far acted according to the grace
given and assure you, that we will in future, with our whole mind,
take into serious consideration what you propose to us. We all
greet you, and wish you many blessings, and hope you will make
farther communications to us. Benigmus and Endrus, send their
special love to brother K. Receive the greeting and love of the brethren of Orberndorf, Rudersberg, Schlechtbach, Winersden and
Fellback.  I remain your brother in the Lord."
G. M. REBER, Teacher.
We here add a large extract from the letter of Professor Paulus:
SALON, December 18, 1850.
Beloved Brethren in the Lord. —Grace be with you from Him
which is, and which was, and which is to COmxE, our Lord Jesus
Christ. We have read your dear letter with great interest and
were convinced from it, that we are united with you in the bonds
of the same spirit, which gave us all great joy. For we too like
yourself are convinced with lively hope, that the coming of the
Lord is not only nigh at hand, but also, that the promised land in
connection with this truth, will have to act a conspicuous pa't,
and from time to time, we feel the drawings of our hearts more
distinctly directed towards that land, yet we have not arrived at
the joyful resolve to go, and know not for what the Lord will keep
us herec, but stand in His service waiting for His orders. Some
yeors since, our countryman, C. F. Spittler, in Basle was convinced
that the Holy Land should be occupied by " Believers," and to that
end l-le sent brethren, and established and maintains a house in
Jerusalem,? which forms as it were an outpost in Palestine, but
thlus far the result of their labors, has not encouraged us, that the
tile had arrived to go en masse with our families to locate there.
(The writer had not heard of these brethren's later success with
dJeshullam.) A year ago some Hessian brethren desiring to emoigrate to the Holy Land in large numbers, wrote to Bishop Goba.t
for his opinion.  But ]his advice was against the undertaking
sryoin2g " the time for such a scheme has not yet arrived."  Since
this answer all is silent again, and we stand, with regard to this
cause, like servants waiting for the sign, and order of their Master.
But by no means, by these statements, would we discourage you,
but we would rather say go on, to labor in this cause, and whoso.
ever feels free and convinced to emigrate to the land of our hope,
let him go in God's name, and God in whom he trusts will surely
* The young man who comenielced to labor with 1Meshullaam in Oct. 1849, was
oae of the four then residing together in Jerusalem,




LETTERS.                       127
not let him be confounded. We are convinced that the time HAS
ARRaIVED, when the Lord will prepare habitations for his people, in
that land (Ez. 368) which has seen him once in humiliation, but
will soon see him also in exaltation and glory."
n" We farther believe, that the promised land, will now become a
point, or object, with which believers will have more work to DO,
than heretofore. To assist in spirit, and by prayer, and if neces.
sary to help with our substance, we will do cheerfully; and will
rejoice if one here and there feels moved to get up and proceed to
that land. We also believe that the Lord has ALREADY singled
out such of his people, whom he will use in PREPARING the place of
his Advent"
" We beg leave thus to lay our hearts open to God, and rejoice,
that we have made your brotherly acquaintance, though only by
letter, the communion and friendship in Christ is so sweet and
elevating, that we feel strengthened in thankfulness to the Lord.
Heartily would we rejoice to hear from you of the progress of the
work, in which seemingly the Lord has called you, that we may
rejoice with you, and pray the more earnestly, for the work, even
if we cannot go with you in person,. we commend you to God; the
Lord be with you and bless your labor which is dedicated to Him
with the richness of his mercy. I salute you with the kiss of
love in behalf of all the brethren whom your letter has reached,
and in spirit, I stretch my loving brother's hand over the ocean.
Yours united in the Lord.          PPa. PAULUS,
Director of the Scientific Institute, near Ludvigsburg.
Mr. Miceshullam having given one of his German neighbors sonie of the medicine which was sent in our first
shipment, (June, 1850,) aind also given them  the kind
letter of the donor to read.  Dr. P ~  has just received
a very interesting letter from  his patient in Palestine, a
translation of which he kindly furnishes for publication.
JERUSALEs, Novembe1r 29, 1850.
Dear and Beloved Brother in the Lord.-Hearing of your faith
and hope in the Lord Jesus, and of your love, toward the people of
the old covenant, we were highly rejoiced, and that you in common
with us, feel such a deep interest in seeing that the inheritance of
the despised seed of Abraham, is again cultivated by believers. I
wau3 so fortunate, as to read your dear letter, to your friend Mr.
IMeshullam,  which he gave me to peruse, so that I am enabled
now to write to you, and give the beloved ones in America a few
facts concernilng us here. Who will not be exceedingly glad to
hear the good tidings thal the children of Zion, flock hither again,




1219                      LETTERS.
from the north, south, east, and west.  Also, how others, who
cannot see as we do, and who do not YET feel as we did HOMESICK
for the Holy Land, how even these, begin to look with a wishful
eye, towards the land of divine Revelation. We may count
ourselves happy, to have lived to see these days, and manifestations,
how the Lord HAS TURNED towards his land, and people, in grace
and loving kindness, and has COMMiENCED to chastise, LUKEWARM
backsliden Christendom, and to let loose among them the evil
spirits of rebellion and anarchy. But He will perform the truth to
Jacob, and the mercy to Abraham, and He will smile again, upon
the long forsaken and desolate widow Jerusalem. We camle to this
country nearly a year ago, from the Rhine province in Prussia,
where are many brethren holding the same faith with us, about
the restoration of Israel, and the coming of the Lord, Within
THE LAST FEW YEARS, there were several societies established for
Israel, and colporters sent out to the Jews, to distribute Bibles
among them. Through these movements, many of us became so
interested in behalf of the Holy Land, that many would willingly
have started at once to emigrate there, if the undertaking had not
seemed too hazardous at the present time.
We came to the conclusion, to raise some funds, and to send first
two deputies to Palestine, in order to ascertain if it were possible
for us to dwell there with our families. Unfortunately most of the
brethren who felt interested were farmers and mechanics, who
had suffered much THE LAST FEW YEARS, froml the failure of the
produce of the fields, war, etc., so that money was scarce. Now
in order that the cause might not suffer by delay, and in order to
find out soon, if it were practicable to live in peace among the
Arabs, and gain bread sufficient for our families, we concluded
at once to go there with our families. Our beloved father gave
each of us, several hundred dollars, and after many blessings from
our people, we left them on Nov. 29,'49 by railroad from Barmen."
" When we left, we numbered ten persons, five men, two women,
and three children, the least of whom was two and a half years
old. God Almighty brought us wonderfully through many storms,
by sea and land, so we arrived after ten weeks, safely in Jerusalem!
except one sister, who was confined in a village six hours from
Jerusalem (Ramlah) where we stopped all night. She remained
with the child and her husband until she was able to proceed,
although she had no physician, and could not converse a word
with the Arab women, who kindly waited on her, yet the Lord,
interceded in such a manner, that on the fifth day she was able to
proceed on her journey on horseback, (up the rocky ascent!) to
Jerusalem! Having all arrived, we advised, and consulted with
this and that person, about our future course, but generally they
prophesied us no good. One gentleman thought " settling in the
country is vet too insecure" another said, "thesoil is too unproductive"  But trusting in God, we were not discouraged, but




LETTERS.                       129
gradually looked about at things as they were, and hired out as
day laborers, and began to pick up a little of the language. After
this we bought some cows, sheep, and goats. We had brought
with us some good churns, by means of which our butter very soon
proved quite a celebrated object in Jerusalem, which we sold at a
good price in the season of English and other travellers. The
Arabs prepare their butter in goat skins, and are not very nice in
in their mode of doing things. We have two large gardens, in
which we plant European vegetables, etc., which we sell to the
city. Thus we have worked our way thus far by God's blessing.
To live among the Turks is easy enough, if we know a little of
their language, on the other hand there is of course some difficulties
to encounter. In keeping cattle there is something to be learned
by a new comer, as the nature of the animals, as well as the climate
is different from other countries. We have now five cows and five
calves a year old, two horses and one foal, and we are convinced
that the raising of live stock is as profitable now, as it was in the
time of Father Abraham, for the pasture is plenty, and free for
all! It is probable that some wealthy merchants will soon locate
near Jaffa where they have BOUGHT some gardens, and intend to
rear the silk worm, as mulberry trees abound there, and some good
beginning has already been made. We are happy to state that
since our arrival, we have all been indeed very happy, and not a
single moment has any one of us regretted coming to live here.
This fall when I had the chills and fever, and was cured by one
portion (a few doses) of your medicine, and herewith I would tender
you my most heartfelt thanks for your kind provident care. Mr.
Meshullam and family are all quite well, we all send you affectionate regards, and I remain your brother in Christ."
FREDERICK GROSSTEINSBECK.
P. S.-Please to write to us and I will make farther communica.
tions about our doings here.
The following is our  uost recent intelligence from Mr.
Meshullam, and contains his acknowledgment of the first
shipment of last June, comprising the mill and accompanying donations.
JErUSALLEM, November 26, 1850.
BLeloved Christian Friend:-Influenced by motives of regard and
gratitude I beg to send the fbllowing acknowledgement of your
letter of June, in which I felt deeply impressed, with a feeling of
mutual esteem, being again called upon to view your disinterested
love, and extended efforts to promote so charitable a cause. I inscribe my humble appreciation, and heartfelt thanks ibr the
articles recently received, particularly, as they convey an insight




130                      LETTERS,
into the mlinds of those persons, who by such benevolence, express
a peculiar love, and desire, to further the cause of God's chosen
people."
First of all, I would undersign any acknowledgement of the mill,
and all the various accomlpanying articles, contributed to extend my
labors, in the position assigned me by Providence."
"6 The criterion by which my gratitude is to be proved in return,
remains in the reciprocal purpose, and congenial feelings of my
heart. If the Lord is indeed supporting my undertaking, in behalf
of his afflicted people, He will I am sure, finish the work He has
begun, and make me in future the instrument of His purpose, but
if otherwise, I simply commit to his Providence, the care of my
personal concern in it. We fully appreciate that your intended
return, is only proposed from motives of Christian interest, and we
embrace the welcome hour, that shall convey you safe to our improved cot, at Artos. Many are the evident, and increasing tokens,
that the Lord's eyes are turned for good, on Jacob's heritage. Let
but Islamism flee from our strong holds and the Lord's purpose find
room, amid the the broken fragments of this desolate land, and the
FIRST STEP of civilization, and industrial labor, in cultivation SPREAD
among the vallies of Palestine, and find its way, effectually to Jewish quarters, then in the due and predicted time, the Lord will
appear and openly exhibit the majestic band that is to return to
Zion, and his hand shall dry up Israel's tears, when a remnant
shall come out from the furnace of long affliction, as pure as the
native gold of ancient Armenia. With these approaching pros.
pects in view lermlt me to close, with my unfeigned thanks for all
the kind interest you have exerted on my behalf, trusting that the
most acceptable answer to these lines may be, your own personal
conveyance to my house and farm. In conclusion dear friends, we
all desire to be dutifully remembered to you and all other Christian
friends connected with you in the Lord, in the fervent hope, to
mleet again with unparting prospects. Believe me, yours faithfully.
JOHN MESHULLAI.
P. S.-Permit me to mention about the mill, having read in
your letter, that it was capable of grinding two barrels of flour per
hour (with horse power) I promised a number of poor Jews, and
Gentiles, to allow them to grind if they would pray for the remuneration of its contributors, and to begin to pray in advance, for alleviating them from so great a fatigue and expense. So, many poor
people came to grind a little wheat, for their own poor families, but
they were not able to succeed, for on account of the great suffering
of the people in this country, their power is much fallen, and for
ten minutes they can resist grinding, but no longer. Now to these
poor people it seems so-hard in me, after having promised them to
tell them it is too difficult to grind, they being unwilling to believe
it. The things necessary to apply horse power, I am sorry to say,




are not to be obtained here. I shall feel greatly obliged if you caln
give me any advice, to make it grind easier.
Please to inform Dr. P. that there are many blessings for him,
from several individuals, on whom his medicine had great effect,
not being able to write to him, as I am much occupied with the
land."                                              J. M.
A few words were added from Mrs. Meshullam:
i' I take the opportunity of sending a few lines in order to express
my hearty thanks, for your kind undertaking for me and my family,
since your departure, and hoping that your intention is to return,
to this land, I can only pray that the Lord may bring you safe to it
and that we may all be united in one family in Christ Jesus. My
best respects to all other kind friends connected with you."
Yours truly,
MARY MESHULLAM,
Elijah, the eldest son, writes a business letter, containing a list of tools and implements which he needs, but
cannot be obtained there, he says:
JERUSALEM, January, 1850.
"Permit to me close, with mine and my parents best love to you.
Artos is still FLOURISHING and under the divine blessing, every
thing is ready to receive you. With our united love and prayer
believe me, yours faithfully and obediently."
EIIJAH MESHULLAXM




1 32                   LETTERS.
PtITI,ADELPiSi,, April 11, 1851.
On account of an unexpected delay in the press, we are
able to add the following letter from Mr. Meshullam, this
day received, in an unusual short time.  The mail steamer
leaves Jaffa on the 3d of every month, so that it has reached
us in 40 days from Palestine.  The surprising intelligence
of such abundant rains, increases our confidence that "' the
set time" to favor the desolations of Zion is truly come,
when the Lord has promised, " fear not, 0 Jacob, my servant, and thou Jeshuran, whom I have chosen, for I will
PouR water upon him that is thirsty, and ]FLOODS upon the
dry ground,"' " and waters in the wilderness, and rivers in
the desert, to give drink to My people, my chosen."
"' CHARLE  A. MINon, No. 141 Spruce Street, Philadelphia, United
States."
JERUSALEM, February 27.1851.
"BELOVED CHIRISTIAN FRIEND:S-I was exceedingly happy to re.
ceive your worthy letter, dated January 5th, 1851, in which I ob.
served that my final settlement at Artos caused great satisfaction
to you and your Christian friends  As you have decided to come,
allow me to describe to you the present statb of things in this place,
which I believe you will be anxious to hear. The additional land
which I occupy this year, lies between Artos and the ruin called the
HIouse of the Prophet Zachariah. and consists of about 50 acres of
land, or 72 days ploughing, (with the poor Arab plough.) If the
Lord should bless the soil, and allow me an abundant harvest, I
shall divide it in three parts, namely: one-third to the two German
families, having a contract with them until November, and four
Arabs, annual laborers; one.third to the PooR, and a third to the
support of my family, which I am able to get, yet not without per.
secution. To this, I submit, knowing that every good Christian
must suffer more or less in this country, and our recompense is not
in this world, but in the world to come, having no defence but
prayer and supplication to the Lord. Whoever can submit to these
terms, are welcome to unite with us, giving you information that
the land is not entirely mine, having one portion of it for the period
often years, and the rest has been given into my hands to cultivate
for the benefit of the poor; the Mahornedans here, trusting more to
many faith, than to that of their own nation, so that the benefit is not
only for myself, but for others. While I beg you to consider, to
what we are subject, I would repeat once more, that rIit OBJrnCT Of
my agricultural undertaking, in this desolate place, among mouls
taiins and rocks, is to LAY A FOUNDATION t(')r my brethlren to takle an
example of cultivating their Father.land. X  hope i}:e Lord will ino




LETTERS.                       l 33
spire them, and show them that man should not fbar for MAN, but
only for the LoaRD, for he will be with us, even among these desolate places, if we accomplish his will, and our duty-to labor for
an honest living.
I was not less rejoiced than yourself to receive your recent communication, for though I dwell under my own vine and fig tree,
Satan often thwarts, through hostile influences, my ONE OBJECT of
LoVE and beneficence. You speak of Mr. --  opposition; if
there should be any who desire to have further information respecting me, I wouldrefer them to my friend, Bishop Gobat, of Jerusalem,
Rev. J. Nicolayson, Chaplain, and Dr. Magowan, of the Medical Department. I should inform you, that during this rainy season, we
received three days and three nights of such great rain, that it destroyed nearly a third of the walls and houses of Jerusalem! I was
also a sufferer, as my farm was completely covered with water, from
one side of the mountain to the other, (it occupies a narrow valley
between two high ranges of naked rocks.) The water was about ten
times the usual depth of the Jordan, on which vessels could navi.
gate, it lasting for more than two months!! I lost all my winter
vegetables, and my four rooms were nearly destroyed, so that all my
laborers were obliged to flee to the top of the mountains, in order to
escape being drowned. The damage in all was about;~140. The
oldest men in Palestine, declare they have never seen such rain
during their lives!  I and my family were happily in the city
during that weather. I shall be greatly obliged to you, if you will
thank Mrs. E. D. R. with many thanks, for the ~10 forwarded
by her, and received this day, and I trust she will be pleased with
my distribution, among those whom I know to be in the most need
while cultivating the land, they begging me to send their earnest
blessing for her. I also acknowledge again the mill, arid all the
otheri accompanying articles.  It will be necessary for you to bring
with you a quantity of thick oil cloth, or canvass, well waxed, or
tarred, being more secure from DEw  and RAIN's than common tents.
Light stoves or portable furnaces for the winter, strong cloths for
bags, buckets for drawing and for carrying water, and a small engine or pump. Seeds of all descriptions, mostly beet roots,'turnips,
anud cabbages. Horse radish is especially much admired by the
Jews, as they suppose it capable of curing them from any disease;
also, implements and tools of all descriptions. The above things
being the most requisite in this country. Excuse me, having no
more time to write, as the post is leaving. Our best Christian Love
to you all. I remain yours, most truly, in the Lord."
JOHN MESHULLAM.
12




RECEIPTS AND EXPENDITURES.
RECEIPTS.
Account of the receipt of money  and  donations of
different articles received, for the purpose of aiding the
benevolent labors of John  Meshullam, and " the Manual
Labor School of Agriculture for the Jews in the Holy
Land: "
April 4, 1850-Received the first dollar fiom a poor widow,
on board the steamer from Southampton,.  $1 00
May-From a lady in Philadelphia, through E. Do R..     25 00
6" an Association of ladies,    do.              20 00
a lady,                       do.            -10 00'"  a friend of the Jews,    do..      55 00
"  the same, two pieces of gingham.
June:     a believing brother,.   -..             5 00
A box of flower seeds from two sisters.
A box of medicine from a physician.
Several articles of children's clothing, from his lady.
From a lady in Spruce St. 2 dress patterns of gingham.
"  a florist, and agricultnral book.
"  a lady, 2 Marseilles quilt vests, and a worsted scarf
Several tools and appliances for the Mill, by the patentee.
Aug.-Through a friend at the sea shore, from a Scotch lady,  5 00
From another, to pay one laborer, one month,.   5 50
Oct.-From a lady in Philadelphia, by C. B..  5 00
"'  Ladies' Mite Society, for a fanning mill, etc.
through E. D. R.... 24 00
Nov.-From a lady,..                                     00.t..  a lover of Israel,                    42 00
" a lady,.... 100
Farmersville Church, N. Y., by B. S. Go.       5 00
Sale of Meshullam's Narrative,.         5 00
By a lady, from various individuals,..   6 70
By another,..  2 50
1851, Jan.-From a "Friend," (E. P.) Maryland,.        5 00
From the same, 1 keg of assorted seeds, another keg
containing dried peaches and apples, six brooms,
best quality, and a bag of hops.
From  another "Friend" in Maryland, 1 new patch
work bed quilt, a superior article.
From a lady in Spruce Street, I dress pattern of calico,
and I of mourning lawnv
134




RECEIPTS AND EXPENDITURES.                  1 35
Feb.-From A. B. W. through Dr. P.,                       2 00
a Presbyterian Clergyman, Philadelphia,.    1 00
"  B. P. a brown linen dress.
"  J. W. a boy's cloth cap.
" 27-From N. B. A. & Co., New York, a donation of agri
cultural implements,                         32 94
Total,                               $256 64
Money remaining in the hands of the agent,.   10 70
Also, a few of the articles named in the receipt, to be
sent in the next shipment; also, five dollars and
thirty cents, contributed by personal friends, in
N. Y., for our contingent expenses.
EXPENDITURES.
Account of monies expended, and  appropriations of
donations received:
June, 1850: Shipped fiom Philadelphia, through the kindness
of Dr. J. P. R. of England, to John Meshullam, Jerusalem.
One large box, containing a portable burr-stone flour
mill, which oost,..                       $50 00
Also, necessary implements, bolters, etc....  8 00
Another box, containing seeds, dry goods, clothing,
medicine, etc., from individuals, embracing all the
articles received at that date.
Also, a package of choice garden seeds and 2 hoes,. 5 00
Two bills of exchange, for fifty dollars each,.   100 00
Was also forwarded by E. D. R. through the Christian
courtesy of Mr. B. WV. N. of London, to John Meshullam, to aid his benevolent efforts in behalf of his poor
brethren.
March 1, 1851: Three large boxes were shipped from New
York, to the care of the American Consul, Beyroot, for
John Meshullam. They contained agricultural implements,
books and seeds, according to the desire of the donors, and
the greatest need of the farm in the valley of Bethlehem.
The following is a list of the articles contained in the boxes,
with their prices:
Bought of N. B. A. & Co., N. Y., Feb. 26, 1851:
1 plough, No. 18, $3 25; 1 plough, No. 4, $3 25; 1
fanning mill, No. 1, $13; 1 frame and pulley wheel,
and leathern belt, to increase the power, and apply to
the mill, already sent, $15; 1 ox chain, 14 lbs. $1 75;
1 sickle, 50 cts.; 1 small corn mill, $6 50,-very easy
to grind; 6 garden hoes, $ 3; 1 rake, 37 cts.; 4 assorted hoes, $1 75; 1 shovel and spade, $ 1 75;
other assorted samples of farming implements, $7 12,




1 36             ACCOUNT OF PRINTING.
garden seeds, $5 14; extra boxing and cartage, $6.
Also, after a liberal discount from  our generous
FRIEND, Capt. H., paid for freight from' New York
to Beyroot, $10; amounting in all, by cash paid, $50;
and the gratuity of N. B. A. & Co., $32 94,.   $82 94
Total amount sent,           ~.... $245 94
ACCOUNT OF PRINTING.
Money contributed to print the first edition of  Ieshul.
lamn's NTracrrative:
May, 1850: A lady in Philadelphia,                    $10 00
Another      do.                              5 00
A friend,                             1         00
A lady,.                                      50
Another,...   50
A lady,....2 50
$19 50
June: Paid the printer, in full, for 1,000 copies of M's Narrative,..   $22 00
Account of money received to aid in the publication of
the first edition of this work, containing the Journal, and
second edition of Meshullam's Narrative:
Jan. 1851: From a friend, alady of Philadelphia,.    $20 00
A poor widow,.....                  75
An advent sister,..50
A lady in Spruce Street,...    1 00
An orphan child,..25
An advent brother,... 1 00
Another,                                     1 50
A lady,.....5 f00
A sick lad, a tithe of Christmas money,         50
A lady in Arch Street,.              10 00
$40 50
Paid for printing and binding 1,000 copies of" Meshullam,
or Tidings from Jerusalem,".      $ 123 35
March 25: Received for the sale of "the Tidings from
Jerusalem,"....                60 21
Deduction for postage and advertising,.. 4 24
$55 97
CHARLES A. MINOR, Agent.
Plma  ELaHIA, arcl 27, 1851.




APPEAL.
PMLADMELPrtIA, ApriL 1, 1861.
The first edition of this work being exhausted, and application for copies and the interest in its subject still
increasing, a disinterested conviction of duty, and devotion
to the hope of Israel, has constrained me to re-publish it.
Since our return from Jerusalem, we have communicated
with many intelligent Christians in different parts of this
country, who agree in prayer and faith in this interesting
work of love.  Some have generously contributed, and
their free-will offering has been sent, to this altar of service,
which the Lord is rearing again, amid the ashes of Zion!
Meshullam, in recent letters, still appeals for helpers in
humble labor, and this " cry from Jerusalem," deserves a
serious response from those who have long professed to be
lovers of Israel. Having, by personal observation, and
careful inquiry from others, ascertained these facts respecting his character, and investigated his present position
and relations to the inhabitants of the country, and his
Jewish brethren, the conviction is pressing upon us, that
the Lord is preparing and sustaining him, not as a spiritual
leader, but as an humble agent of usefulness, and hopeful
blessing, to Israel. Also, that in accordance with this
manifestation of the Divine Providence, a few humble laboring Christians, should immediately join, and co-operate
with him, in something like a 4Ma'nual Labor School of Agriculture for the Jews.  The way for these unpretending
labors seems to have been remarkably opened, the past
year, in perfect harmony with other movements respecting
Israel. Last summer an agent from Constantinople, arrived in the United States, confirming the most favorable
relations, between our Government and the Sublime Porte;
also, since our return from the East, the Sultan of Turkey
has issued a Firman, giving permission to all denomina12:*                137




I 38                  BAPPEALI
tions, to bztild, ow-n, and occulqy lands in Palestine! Also
in a published letter from Constantinople, dated December,
1850, it is stated that a Firman had just been received by
the Protestants of Turkey, from the Sublime Porte, and
the writer adds: "By this Firman all the civil and religious
rights of the Protestants are secured to them, and they are
distinctly declared to have  the privilege of building
churches, holding burying grounds," etc. This is a liberty
which  has never before existed since the dispersion,
and is surely an unexampled and dispensational movenient of Providence. Also, another serious obstacle is
removed, and the impracticability and expense greatly
lessened, by the recent establishment of a line of sailing
vessels, between our country and the land of Israel! The
gentlemen in New York who sent the first merchant vessel
to Syria, mentioned in the Journal for last year, (with
whom we correspond,) have continued a line of communication, by which passengers, and freight, may be landed at
Jaffa, at a reasonable charge! Pious, industrious laborers,
are indispensable to the success of this benevolent work, as
the labor is too great for one, however intelligent and devoted, for the poor Jews must be taught, not only by precept, but by daily example, the first strokes of successful
tillage.  A few  such humble laborers for the love of
Christ, have submitted themselves to the Lord, as candidates for this arduous service of self-denial and sacrifice.
They have for a long time, from a conscientious reverence
for the fourth commandment, sanctified and kept the Sabbath of the Lord, (the Seventh day of the week,) though
unconnected with any organized sect, and are thus peculiarly prepared to co-operate with the Jews in manual labor,
without disarranging THIS vital point in their religion. IF
the God of Israel should move the hearts of any of his
Gentile children to have compassion upon His poor in
Zion) and the means should be provided for the bare
necessities of the voyage, and their first establishment,
these laborers desire, at once, to proceed to the aid of
Meshullam, where their first object will be to secure lands
by perpetual lease, in concert with him, at a moderate cx



APPEAL.                    139
pense. They must also be provided with a large supply of
all kinds of useful seeds, agricultural tools, implements, and
fixtures, and a small assortment of common mechanical
tools, to meet the exigencies of a new residence in a destitute land. They will also need common dry groceries and
provisions for the first few months; also, saddles and bridles, tents, and their furniture, etc. It will be also necessary
that they should have a few coarse cotton goods, to cloth~
the destitute, and a small fund to employ the suffering applicants: but it must be distinctly understood, that they chiefly
depend upon the fertility of the soil, and the blessing of God
upon their labors, to sustain and extend thisinteresting work.
Are there not servants of the Lord, scattered in all denominations and classes of society, who will desire a share in this
labor, and be constrained, by the love of Christ, to send an
offering to the Lord in Zion! If any such should respond
to this humble APPEAL, their smallest contributions, in
money, or any of the necessary articles mentioned above,
will be faithfully and conscientiously appropriated AS THE
DONORS SHALL SIGNIFY, to the immediate needs of this
work.
Any communications, or donations, by letter or otherwise, " FoR THE MIANUAL LABOR SCHOOL OF AGRICULTURE FOR THE JEWS IN THE HOLY LAND," may be addressed (post-paid,) to their Agent,
CHARLES A. MINOR,
"No. 141 Spruce street, above Fifth, Philadelphia,"
where this work is for sale.