LIFE IN BRAZIL;
OR,
5T nulrnlt nf a Tisoit
TO'THE
LAND OF THE COCOA AND THE PALM,
WITH AN APPENDIX,
CONTNINI N(;
ILLUSTRATIONS OF ANCIENT SOUTH AMERICAN ARTS
IN RECENTLY DISCOVERED IMPLEMENTS AND PRODUCTS OF DOMESTIC
INDUSTRY, AND WORKS IN STONE, POTTERY, GOLD,
SILVER, BRONZE, &c.
BY THOMAS EWBANK.
WITH  OVER ONE HUNDRED ILLUSTRATrONS.
NEW YORK:
HARPER  & BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS,
PFARL STREET, FRANKLIN SQUARE,
1856.




Entered, accordiJlg to Act of Congress, in the year one thousand eight
hundred and fifty-five, by
IIHARPER & BROTHERS,
in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the Southern District of
New York.




P R E FACE
THE present times are the beginning of a fresh chapter in
man's history, and look not unlike the opening of a new epoch
in the development of his being. HIabits and impulses hitherto rudimental seem ready to burst into maturity, as if the larva
state of his existence was closing, and he was about to use
wings as well as feet-an age of locomotion, and the prelude to
one of flight.
Nature always presages marked changes in the condition of
her diversified offspring, and by indications not easily mistaken.
The appearance of new, or an advanced elaboration of existing
organs, is invariably preceded or accompanied by corresponding
instincts.  A lepidopter is no sooner fitted for action in an element different from that in which its previous constitution deligllted, than it finds itself impelled to the exercise of newlyborn powers, and anon is off in quest of untasted pleasures.
The phenomenon of metamorphosis is common to every form of
life.  Man is but an'aspiring insect, and the addition of instrumnents of volitation would scarcely surpass in novelty transformations which the species, according to some authors, has
already undergone.
As on the approach of migratory seasons with lower tribes,
a general restlessness pervades society. Classes and masses.
heretofore inert are beginning to move and to flutter, agitated
by latent influences. Pede-locomotion is growing obsolete, and
a disposition to soar every where manifest.  Harbingers, too,
of something like a general flight may be noticed in those gentlemen musicians and ladies of song now tripping over the earth




vi                     PREFACE.
and making professional tours round it.  Histrionic artists ri.
valing old circumnavigators!
Such facts the world never witnessed before.  WThat they
forebode Heaven best knows.  If precursive of a breaking up
of the old recluse habits of the species, and introductory of a
system by which distant branches of the human family will become better known to, and be led to the interchange of sentiments and civilities with, each other, who would be among the
last to feel the generous impulse? Indeed, who, with health
and leisure, can now stay at home inactive —be content to grow,
remain, and die upon one little spot of this glorious sphere, when
even females dance and sing, and music-masters fiddle round it?
These questions the writer put to himself; and the result was
ca determination to cast off for a season the instincts of home.
and hie away to a region of butterflies and flowers. Inclination led him across the equator to the verge of the southern
tropic, where he found a succession of novelties in the moving
panorama of a Brazilian city that supplied subjects in abundance for both crayon and pen.
As I give my impressions regardless, in this politic age, of the
policy or impolicy of so doing, there are doubtless among them
opinions with which every reader will not sympathize. But
what then? The Creator never designed us all to think and
feel, see and speak, reflect and write alike.  It is absurd to expect it, and worse than Mlanchegan folly to get angry about it.
This would be a tame world if all things on it were modeled,fter one or two patterns, and men were fac-similes of each
other.
I am told that I should have kept silence on ecclesiastical
matters; that it is improper for laymen to meddle with them.
L can only say I did not go out of my way to find them.  In
Brazil, religion, or that which is so called, meets you every
where; you can do nothing, observe nothing, without being confronted by it in one shape or another.  It is a leading feature;




PREFACE.                       vii
in public and private life.  Festivals and processions constitute
the chief amusements of the masses-are their principal sports
and pastimes, during which the saints themselves come out of
their sanctuaries, and, with padres and people, take part in the i
general frolic. To pass by them would be omitting the most
popular acts, and neglecting the favorite actors in the national
drama.
I have occasionally commented freely on facts, but I have
distorted none-not one; nor have I forgotten that South American superstitions were once common, and that their rejection
by our ancestors is of no remote date. The world is still " a
ragged school." Of the races and nations that make up its
classes, few have got through the horn-book of knowledge; and
it is certain they never can be seated on the same form in religion any more than in arts, sciences, and civil polity.  The
dogma of uniformity is opposed to the organic law of diversity.
In whatever light the physique of Romanism may appear to
others, it is full of interest to me. Almost as purely heathen
as before the advent of Christ, it is a living and luminous exponent of pagan mysteries and ceremonies.  Restore the old
terms "temples" and "gods" for "churches" and "saints"
(they are strictly synonymous), and there is scarcely aught in
it but what was in common use ages before the times of the
Ctesars. 4Churches, their internal arrangements and accessories.
their store-rooms for machinery, chests and closets for dresses?
ornaments, insignia, and jewels belonging to the images; artists to take charge of and repair these; several shrines located
in one temple, forms of worship at them, candles on the altars,
mass-bells, vows, penance, flagellation, pilgrimages, pocket and
household images; the various orders of priests, of monks and
nuns, habits of the priests, rosaries, the Inquisition and its tortures, the tonsure, ex votos, holy water and its applications,
professsional attributes of saints, bodily cures wrought by and
character of miracles ascribed to them, &c., all belong to classic




viii                    PREFACE.
alnd anterior epochs.  Bulls of excommunication and commination, involving confiscation of property and death, are versions
of those issued against Alcibiades and other alleged heretics;
so, also, exceptions taken by enlightened Romanists to such
wholesale cursing are finely illustrated by Theano, who excused
herself, saying she was "a priestess for prayer and not for execration.^"
It is impossible to witness for the first time ecclesiastical
pageants without calling to mind the same things established
by the Gentiles, and which constituted a cherished source of
their entertainments. INow, as then, the business of a city is
ever and anon arrested, its streets are swept and strewed with
leaves, the fronts of the houses decked with evergreens and drapery, women and children throng the windows, country people
flock in to the sight, and groups of both sexes are every where
waiting for it.  At length appear full-sized statues painted to
thle life, mounted on platforms, and borne in triumph on men's
shoulders, amid crowds of officials in their varied costumes.
Alitred pontiffs, with their trains held up by pages, walk under
(allopies, accompanied by civil magistrates and escorted by battalions of soldiers, the whole preceded and followed by cohorts
4f )Fiests, isthmi, 11ksy8tlxls, wSA attyytes,  w th mic, banlers, flambeaux, staves, censers, symbols on poles, &c., while
fromn the mixed masses of spectators proceed sotto voce remarks,
reverend and profane, as each wooden deity and its perspiring
supporters pass by.  What is all this but a continuation of the
pomps of Isis and Cybele-of festivals celebrated in honor of
the gods and goddesses of Egypt, Assyria, Asia Minor, Carthage,
G(reece, and old Rome? Similar scenes and performers at Nineveh, Babylon, Corinth, Ielphos, and Athens pass literally beitre one; at least so it seemed when the sight first opened upon
me in Rio.
[1 believe Roinanism, as it exists in Brazil and South America generally, to be a barrier to progress, compared to which oth



PREFACE.                         ix
er obstacles are small, and there are native statesmen alive to
the fact; but, incorporated as it is with the habits and thoughts
of the people; transfused, as it were, through their very bones
and marrow, unless some Kempis or Fe6nelon, Luther or Ronge,
arise to purify it, generations must pass before the scales drop
from their eyes, and they become mentally free.
Of those who think differently, I trust none will suffer their
ire to glow at this expression of an opinion, or at recitals of
facts upon which it may be based. I am for every one telling
his own stories and commenting on them in his own way; and
while he who, in doing this, expects to please every body, is
a miller or the son of a miller, those who insist on his seeing
things only through their glasses are verily allied to the companion of IEsop's two grinders of grain.
Besides Church affairs, I noted whatever interested me, and
that, in sooth, was nearly every thing: arts, manners, customs,
buildings, trades, tools, pottery, food, slaves, animals, agricultural products, climate, diseases, population, antiquities, &c.,
&c,.; hence this volume will be found a miscellanea of tropical
life. It was in preparation when the late President Tyler honored the writer with an official appointment in Washington;
the sheets were then laid aside, but, as they relate to matters
that are all but unchangeable, there is nothing to regret in the
delayed publication.
WASHINGTON, D. C., 1855.








CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
New York to Hampton Roads: Passports.-Wrinkled Faces.-Bataleurs. —Richmond. —Market.-Mules.-Lotteries. —James River.-Floating Boarding-house.
-A  Virginian Job. —Crippled Slave.-The Roads...............  Page 17
CHAPTER II.
Ten Days' Sail: Beat out.-New Sensations.-Captain in Costume.-A Gale.Sea-sickness. -Water Rams. -Gulf Stream.-Christmas Carols. -Human Daring.-Ship hunted by marine Demons.-Hard Life of Seamen.-Cook and Captain.-Enchanting Skies.-Minute Crabs............................. 26
CHAPTER III.
Twenty-four Days' Sail: Sea Sorrows.-A Genoese.-Rough Weather.-A Flying-fish.-Flowers of Death.-Oceanic Skies.-The Atmosphere charged with
red Dust.-Firmamental Paintings.-Flying-fish Latitudes.-Cream-colored or
Quaker Skies.-Flying-fish again.-A Meniscus.-A Squall.-A ship in Distress.-A young Fly.-In the Variables.-The Ocean unchangeable.-Temperature of Air and Water. -Brazilian Coasts............................ 35
CHAPTER IV.
Diagram  of the Ship's Motions.-The Ravels at Sea.-Sailing in Elysium.Worlds are Ships of the Almighty Merchant.-The Nebule his Ship-yards.The Ocean a Type of the Sea of Life.-Abrolhos and Squalls. —Cape Frio.Land-breeze.-Sea-breeze.-Sugar-loaf. —Enter the Bay.-Former Treatment
of Foreigners.-Table of Latitudes and Longitudes during the Voyage..... 47
CHAPTER V.
The Bay, City, and Suburbs from the Ship.-The Forts.-I land alone.-The Cattete.-A Brazilian Parlor.-Meeting of two Brothers.................  57
CHAPTER VI.
Almanacs.-Livery Stables.-Carriages.-Honorable H. A. Wise.-The Host.Booming of the Surf.-The Matadoura.-Beeves.-Assist at Mass. —Esmola
Box.-Apollonia.-A Funeral.-Funeral Customs.-Mourning.-Cost of Masses for the Dead................................................... 62
CHAPTER VII.
The Military Arsenal: its Manufactures.-Fine old bronze Ordnance.-School.
-Ceremony of the Hat.-Larangeiras.-Cattete Brook and Washerwomen.A Brazilian Chacara. — Old Portuguese Customs, - Butterflies. - Fountains.




xii                          CONTENTS.
-Indian lMledicine-tree. — A Dessert after the manner of Eden.-Uniformity
of tropical Heats.-Iron Collars on Slaves.-Shoes and Neckcloths symbols
of Freedom. —The Vicar and Sneezing.-The public Garden an earthly Elysium....................................................... Page 71
CHAPTER VIII.
Sudden Floods and their singular Inconveniences.-Discovery of Brazil. —Indians
and early Navigators.- Rio founded by French Protestants.-Their religious
Disputes.-An Indian Chief knighted. - His Descendants. - Location of the
City.-Saints of the Hills. —Streets and Pavements.-Houses.-Jalousies.Roofs.-Chimneys.-Spouts.-Street Lamps. —Substitute for Bells and Doorknockers.-Signs.-Markets.-Fountains.-No Sewers or Sinks.-Rio a City
of Quarries.-Neighboring Mountains.-Names of Streets, etc...........  81
CHAPTER IX.
Sedans. —Removing Furniture to new Dwellings.-Street " Cries."-Peddlers.Large Lizard.-Penny Portraits of Saints.-The Intrudo and its Sports.-Of
Hindoo Origin. - Death and Burial of the Secretary of the Institute. - The
Church, Coffin, Corpse, Cemetery, and Orations......................  90
CHAPTER X.
The Marimba.-Procession announced.-Unloading Lime-boats.-Lapa Convent
and Lady at Confession.-The Campo and Lavandeiras.-Dog-killers.-Customhouse.-Trucks.-A Slave chained to one.-Young and old WVomen in Chains.
-Coffee Carriers.-Crippled Slaves. The Spectacle given up.-An Angel.The Musuem. —Antiquities, etc.-Fathers of Snuff and the Snuff-trade.-Original Snuff-mills and Sniffing Apparatus. - Slave-traders. —Monastery of San
Bento: its Monks, Chapel, Cells, Library, and Bookworms.-Sopping.-Great
Wealth of this Monastery......................................... 111
CHAPTER XI.
I)iversity of Complexion in one Family.-Sabbath Diversions.-Street of Silversmiths.-Its staple Manufactures.-Amulets.-Figas.-Lock and Key.-Passage
in Shakspeare explained.-Eatin g-houses. -- Charges.-Sneezers " blessed." —
Priests.-Free colored Men.-Great Consumption of Pork.-National Dish.Pastry and Confectionery.-Heavenly Bacon.-Francis of Penitence.-Brotherhoods akin to modern Odd Fellows. —Terms of Admission.-Advantages. —Who
this Francis was.-Garden, and Electric Eel.-Current Philosophy respecting
the Sex.-Divination. -Provincial Nicknames.-Dowries in Cocoa and Coffeetrees.-Vegetable and other Sobriquets. - Horsewomen.-Officers' Wives on
Drill in Military Costume.-Morals of the Priesthood................. 130
CHAPTER XII.
Visit to Christoval: native Sheep.-Palace of a Peddler.-Imperial Quinta. —Rapacity of the old Queen.-Miguel.-A Viscount and his strange Employment.Emperor's Apartments.-Objects of Natural History.-Collection of Coins.Peruvian, Egyptian, and Roman  Antiquities. — Laboratory. — Theatre, and
Garden.........................................................144




CONTENTS.                                xiii
CHAPTER XIII.
Poor Anthony robbed.-Ex Votos.-Their Manufacture.-Humming-bird and Bouquet.-Affronted Image and wicked Painter.-His Punishment, and Process of
" disaffronting" the Image.-Imperial Chapel and its Shrines.-Turk's Head.Barefooted Friars.-Estacio de S. —Slab over him.-Chief of the Capuchins.
-Virgin's Shoe-sole.-Architectural Remains.-Ajuda Convent.-Dumb Waiter.-Glimpse into the Interior.-Vestals.-Nuns in the Ajuda, and their Treatment....................................................... Page 151
CHAPTER XIV.
Candelaria Church.-Jacks of the Clock.-Peccary.-God's Stepfather. —Botanic
Garden.-Snake.-Fences.-Dinner and its Cost.-Catalogue of Plants in the
Garden........................... 169
CHAPTER XV.
Goddess of the Blind.-Her Church, Shrines, and Symbols.-A Slave consulting
her.-Interview with her Sacristan.-Ex Votos.-Our Lady of the Cape of Good
Hope.-Insuring Friars.-Other Professional and Competing Saints.-Street
Images.................................. 176
CHAPTER XVI.
ltain.-Mechanical Professions. —Labor versus Respectability. —Effect on youngl
Men.-Building.-Hammer-gamut. —Working Hours and Wages.-Rejoicings
over Rafters. - Masons and Masonry. - Scaffolds.-Walls.-Antiquity of the
Tools.-Plummet.-Hatchet or Adze.-Carpenter's Bench.-Saw and Planes.Mode of laying Floors.-Doors, Shutters, Hardware.-Pavers.-Lithography.Coppersmiths.-Lamp.-Slave Artisans.-Merchants. - Barbers.-Beggars.Lawyers.-Lotteries................................ 183
CHAPTER XVII.
Mate and Cups.-Sunday Scenes.-Gloria Church.-Images, Vestry, Ex Votos.
and Paintings.-Miracles in behalf of Pedro I. and one of his Daughters.-Lady
of Gloria and a Larangeiras Absalom.-Chapel of the Ajuda grated like a Jail.
-Its Shrines and Images.-A Penitent licking the Dust.-Public Notice of a
Procession.-Images, Angels, and Pomp described..................... 19,8
CHAPTER XVIII.
All Fools' Day.-Streets flooded.-Breaking down Mountains.-Notices of Festivals.-Flying Visit to Francis Paula, St. Anne, Joaquim, St. Rita, Bom Jesuls.
and the Candelaria.-No Animal Oils burned in Churches.-Carmelite Procession with full-grown Images. —The Nimbus and its curious Origin....... 208
CHAPTER XIX.
Palm Sunday: Ceremonies and Customs.-Eunuch Singers.-Specimens of Ecclesiastical Advertisements.-Benedictine Chapel.-Dark Wednesday.-A Merqeeiro.-Juno Lucina of Rio.-Lady of Civilities.-Holy Thursday.-Matracas.
-Silver Plate in the Carmo Church.-Kissing a dead Christ in the Candelaria.
-Appearance of the Interior.-Kissing the Floor and Steps in the Bom Jesus
-Plate in the Paula.-Mine-finders................................. 217




xiv                           CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XX.
Good Friday.-Capuchins preaching.-Burial of God.-Dresses and Jewels of the
Angels.-Allelulia Saturday.-Blessing Fire and Water.-Paschal Candle.Killing Judas.-Church Machinery. —Cinerary Urns and Commemoration of
the Dead.-Symbols carried by Angels. —Boy Monk.-Little Prospect of Protestant Missions succeeding in Brazil.-Mary of Nazareth.......... Page 227
CHAPTER XXI.
Amulets: the Church a Mart for them.-Measures of Saints. —Royal Touches
and metallic Tractors.-Bentinhos.-Pictures of Saints.-Indulgences.-Hindoo
Pictures. - Portable Images. - Medals of Saints. - Bedini. —Symbols of the
Cross. - Crossing Manual. - Pieces of holy Rock.-Hippocanthus. —iga.Ashes of Palmn. —Rue.-Love Powder. - Sieve and Shears.-Curing the Bewitched.-Negro Witches.- Cures for Whitlows and Toothache.-The Evil
Eye.-RIio Poulterers troubled with it.-Horns quench it............... 241
CHAPTER XXII.
Begging for the Holy Ghost.-The Symbols.-Mr. Barboza.-An afflicted Mother.-The City agitated through Mistake.-San Jorge.-Market.-Church of
Peddlers.- Burying-ground of Heretics. - Small Water-craft. - Beeves of the
Sun.-Lady of Navigators.-Mozambique tribal Marks.-Church of Boa Viagem.-Ex Votos and Miracles.-Curious Lavatory. —View of the Harbor and
Mountains.-Alms-box.-Ships' Sails vowed to Our Lady, and sold on her Account.-Indian Boy.-Wax offered to Marine Deities by old Pagans.-Other
Heathen Types of Romish Customs.......................... 250
CHAPTER XXIII.
\ People of Color.-Twilight and Climate.-Barbonos Monks.-The Ex-Nuncio.Henry A. Wise recalled.-Arrival of the Emperor and Anxieties of Courtiers.
-A new Saint. -Mask. -Market Incident. -St. Peter's Church.-N. S. Conceicao. —Plaster Images proposed.-Collecting-days and Collectors.-Church of
the Mother of Men.-Fat Ladies and Gentlemen.-Unctuous Worship of N. S's.
Shoe-sole.-Bedini, the new Nuncio................................. 267
CHAPTER XXIV.
Pluvial Deity.- Aqueduct Records. - Pope John.- Ecclesiastical "Cries."Slaves.-Army Recruits.-The Emperor opens the Legislature.-Fires and Fireengines. - Slaves. - Suicide. - Begging for the Holy Ghost. - Auction of
Slaves............................................                 275
CHAPTER XXV.
Winter.-New Saint.-Lady do Parto.-An English Monk. —Black and white Infants in Purgatory.-Auction at a private Dwelling: its Furniture, Garden, Lares, Oratorio, and Slaves.-Barber's Basin and Shaving-cloth.-Mass and Capuchins.-Church of the Rosary, its Images and Ex Votos.-A sick Man.-Old
Slave. - Uncertain Origin of the Negro Saint. - Ramble through Nictherohv..........................................................  284




CONTENTS.                                xv
CHAPTER XXVI.
Inauguration of a new Saint: how the alleged Bones were procured.-Buried in
a waxen Figure. —The Bishop's Letter.-The Affair generally condemned. —
Bedini and Miranda. — The Emperor declines joining the Procession. - The
Pomp. —The " Arca" and Saint within. —Official Account.-Newspaper Puff. —.A Visit to Priscilliana.-Miranda's Circular.-A French Tribunal on Religious
Impositions.............................................. Page 294
CHAPTER XXVII.,A Day for getting Souls out of Purgatory.-Trip to the Falls of Tejuca.-Character of the Country.-Anacharsis and Charcoal.-Fat Pigs and Morphea.-Mills.
-Cotton-tree.-Coffee Plantation.-Tailless Dogs and Fowls.-Process of preparing Coffee for the Market.-Early Notice of Cauphe. —The Falls.-Dinner
and Dessert at them.-Inscriptions on the Gavia................ 305
CHAPTER XXVIII.
(;hurch Advertisements.-Auction and Fire-works at St. PRita's Church.-Articles
sold.-Official Puff.-Horse-racing in honor of the Holy Ghost.-St. Gonqalo
the Friend of the unmarried.-Capuchin preaching. —Two Slaves given to th(
Friars, and their Baptism by Bedini.-Chief Capuchin. —Priscilliana. -Famine
in Ceara.-Indians bought and sold.................. 312
CHAPTER XXIX.
\Vinter and Western Islanders.-Brazilian Names: their Derivation and Import
-Primitive Patronymics.-Combinations.-Names in connection with Professions.-Names of Ships.-Pigs and Pig-stealing.-Invitation to Tea..... 324
CHAPTER XXX.
St. Anthony of Padua: his Monastery and Miracles.-His Rank and Salary as a
Soldier.-Shameful Treatment of his Images.-Feast of the Holy Ghost.-Auctions and Fire-works, etc....................................... 329
CHAPTER XXXI.
Vicar and Vintems. -Theatricals. -Barbonos Monks and the troublesome Blacksmith.-Priscilliana.-Host and drunken Bellman.-Proceedings of the National
Senate arrested.-Slave-trader's Office.-Anthony of the Poor: his Festival and
Tablets.-Mosquitoes and Lizards.-Corpus Christi and St. George.-Showmell
and the Burial...........................                      34
CHAPTER XXXII.
Crockery-wares: Talhas.-Monkey.-Moringuesa.-Furnaces, Flower-pots, etc.\Water-baril.-Serubbinig-brush.-M-ortars. —Fuel.................... 357
CHAPTER XXXIII.
A Trip to Macacu. —Steam up the Bay.-Prospects.-Slaves.-Sambayratiba.Dense Mist.-Bed-chamber.-Attacked by Rats.-Extent of the Pest.-Sugarhouse.-Stingless Bees.-Sheep. —Dogs without Tails.-Visit other Estates.Wasps' and Ants' Nests.-The Rats again.-Scenes in the Forest.-Sipos. —
Spoon Wheels.-Female Slaves making Brick.-Chigres.-Muleteers camping.
-Estate of the Carmelites, —Mules............................ 361




xvi                         CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XXXIV.
Macacu.-A large Tree.-Its Form, Dimensions, and extraordinary Roots.-Why
so few old Trees.-Vegetable Origin of Forms and Ornaments.-Singular Forms
of Boles.-Natural Moulding.-The Sloth-tree and Sloth.-Fabrication of Farinha.-Cultivation of the Plant.-Grating and pressing the Pulp.-The Tipiti.
-Musical Wagons.-Rats keeping Carnival.-Return to the City... Page 371
CHAPTER XXXV.
Apollonia and Carasco.-Divinations.-Beatified Galens.-The Mizericordia.Meeting of Isabel and Mary.-The Chapel.-Emperor. —Foundlings.-Isabel
the Representative of a Pagan Goddess. —MIanual and tibial Worship.-Fourth
of July.-Lame leading the Blind.-British Chapel, Preacher, and Prayer-Book.
-Nictherohy.-Fine Estate and its small Cost.-A  Paca.-The Nuncio denounced.-Lost Image.-Shrine in a Brothel.-Legislation invoked.-Theatrical
and sacerdotal Exhibitions......................................... 384
CHAPTER XXXVI.
(apuchin Attractions: Fireworks, Music, Auction, etc. — The Mint. - Lanternbellows.-Lady of Lampadoza.-Balthazar.-Peter Coelho. —A winged Monk.A dead Christ by a Negro Artist.-Ceara.-How the Emperor was anointed.More Galas.-Conveying Presents.-Interior of a Drawing-room.-Proverbs.The Neckeloth.-Bedini.-British Embassador.-Chamber of Deputies.-Jaunt
to the Gavia.-Inscriptions.-Tailor.-Dead Slave.-Pride and Piggishness.God's Grandmother.-Bedini again.-Lady of Snows.-Birth of a Princecss. —A
W\izard's Stock in Trade............3........................ 395
CHAPTER XXXVII.
Tlle Corcovado Mountain and Carioco Aqueduct: View from chamber Window.Aqueduct Arches.-Ascent of the Tereza Hill.-Conduit and receiving Basins.
-Romantic Character of the Work -Section of Conduit.-Mother of WVaters.
— Paineiras and Pic-nic.-Forest Features.-Ascent of the Corcovado.-Vegetable Instincts.-Summit of the Mountain.-Prospects from it.-Descent. —The
Paineiras tributary to the Mother of Waters.-Reach Home by Lamp-light. —
Subsequent Visits to the Aqueduct.-Its Length and Fall.-Section of Channel
over the Arches.-Entire Length of the Aqueduct and Feeders.-Water furnished by it.-Might be conveyed through Tubes into every dwelling.-No Reservoirs........................................................... 407
CHAPTER XXXVIII.
Population of Brazil.-Diseases.-National Income.-Poiice.-Literature. —Iibrary.-Newspapers.-Character of Brazilians.-Slaves.-Voyage Home  430
APPENDIX........                                                   445




SKETCHE S
OF
LIFE  IN BRAZIL.
CHAPTER I.
New York to Hampton Roads: Passports.-Wrinkled Faces.-Bataleurs.-Richmnond.-Market. —Mules.-Lotteries.-James River.-Floating Boarding-house.
-A Virginian Job.-Crippled Slave.-The Roads.
F1REE travel and free trade are not yet.  The barbarismn that
in the Old World prevents man from traversing the earth and
communing with his species at his pleasure prevails over South
America. Tourists are not allowed to step on nor to leave the
shores of Brazil without passports. I had, therefore, to call on
the Brazilian consul, and pay him for an invoice, or pen-andink sketch of myself.  With it I left New York on the 2d of
December, 1845, by rail for Richmond, Va., to join the bark
Mazeppa, in which I had engaged a passage to Rio. In passing through Jersey, crowds were assembled in every village in
expectation of the President's ~Message. It met us at Bristol,
when every one responded to the sentiments concerning Oregon.
The feeling was universal that not another foot of North America should be polluted with monarchy; that here, come what
may, people should be free from the evils of hereditary rulers,
primogeniture, tithes, and a state priesthood.
From the corrugated countenances of two loquacious old gentlemen, I was led, for want of something else to think on, to
infer that the diversified wrinkles in the human face are produced pretty much in the same way as are similar marks in
the leathers of bellows. The movable board, like the movable
jaw, ever stretching and collapsing the flexile material, at length
determines and defines the lines. No two faces are crimped
alike, neither are two bellows.  Both cheeks and leathers are
B




TS                   SKETCHES OF
smooth when new, and it is only by long-continued action that
the creases become stereotyped in either. To be sure, the living skin requires more working to take and retain the impressions than that prepared by the tanner, but then how vastly
more is it worked! The muscles of the mouth and the play of
the lower jaw scarcely have a moment's rest from the beginning
of life to the end of it.  The lines in the hands are formed ill
the same way.
Night traveling is favorable to revery. There were some
three hundred passengers in the train-politicians, editors, ladies, and ladies' maids, place-hunters, merchants, planters, military and naval officers, artisans, and engineers-every one more
or less absorbed in cogitation. In fact, we are all itinerant Bataleurs, proprietors of little cosmoramic exhibitions, which we
carry about for our individual entertainment, and whose value
varies with the pictures put into them. How large a part of
life is spent in working these, and what pleasure they impart
when Hope fingers the strings!
After a short stay in Philadelphia, we rushed on, through
Baltimore, to Washington, where I spent a day over the lions,
and left for Richmond.  We descended the Potomac in a small
steamer, some forty miles, to Aquia Creek, whence the cars
ran us, in a few hours, to the capital of Virginia. The landscape for a hundred miles presented a uniform icy arborescence.
Gusts of wind rustled through clumps of trees and shrubbery,
shaking down showers of crystals, which came whirring in waves
over the glassy fields toward us.
Arriving according to appointment, I learn that the vesselloading with flour nineteen miles below on the Appomattox-will
not complete her cargo for several days. Not expecting to stop
here twelve hours, and to be detained perhaps a week, is enough,
in such weather as has now set in, to give one mental chills and
bodily ague-fits. The air is tangible from excessive moisture,
and at night darkness is literally felt. The fog is so dense as
completely to hide from view buildings on opposite sides of the
street.  If "in thick mists the devil is smoking tobacco," this
must be a favorite place for taking his pipe in. But travelers
should not be discouraged nor readers frightened off by preliminary disagreeables.




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                     19
Richmond is picturesque in its location, occupying both high
and low grounds.  The river at its feet is crowded with rocks,
which nothing but a canoe can thread; the longest bridge in
the state, a very high one, crosses immediately below them.
The canal sweeps along the banks at an elevation of some forty
feet, presenting enviable sites for hydraulic motors, and in these
sources of wealth rivaling the water-power of Paterson and
Lowell. The houses, of diverse fashions, run up and cross precipitous streets, while the State House, on an eminence, overlooks the city and surrounding scenery. "M Aain Street" is two
miles long, its lower end terminating at " Rockets," the nearest
place to which steamers and small craft can come up. The
middle portion of this avenue-the old business part of the city
-is steep, and occupied on both sides with substantial stores
and dwellings. In other parts the edifices are poor. I was surprised to find decent white people living in very mean apologies
for dwellings. Several old streets are not paved, neither mid(lie nor sidewalks. I am told no marked changes have been
made in the city during the last thirty years.
The State House is a handsome structure. In the hall stands
Iouden's statue of Washington, in citizen's dress, and a walking-cane in his hand-a perfect picture in marble of a Virginian
gentleman of the eighteenth century. True to life, it will convey to posterity a far more correct idea of the Father of his
Country than the half nude Roman figure at Washington.
The market is well supplied, and prices are moderate. Beef
and mutton from 41 to 6 cents per pound; pork, 6 cents; turkeys, 75 cents each, and ducks the same per pair.  Fish averages 3 cents per pound.
A numerous class of animals killed here and elsewhere, but
seldom eaten, are mules-the cheapest, easiest fed, and most
enduring beasts of draught and burden. It is surprising how
they climb icy acclivities with loads so disproportioned to their
slender frames.  Some streets have a rise of eight or ten feet
in a hundred. The Exchange Hotel opens on'one, and it is
painful to witness them tacking from side to side as they pass
it, for ascend direct they can not. See those two small ones
struggling with a ton of building-stone from the river side, straining as if their limbs must become disjointed and their sinews




20                  SKETCHES OF
torn asunder!  Scalding vapor pours from their nostrils and
rolls over their panting sides. Their clinched teeth are wide
exposed, for their quivering lips are drawn apart and corrugated
by their efforts. Conscious that if they ceased their exertions
the load would drag them backward and whirl them down the
steep, how spasmodically they strike their toes into the ground
to secure a footing! It is wonderful how their delicate pastern
joints endure without snapping such violent grapplings with
the pavement. The driver now turns their heads across the
street, and blocks the wheels to allow their palpitation to subside. In many streets they can not ascend over twenty feet
without thus resting. Richmond is the mules' Tartarus. There
was some reason, if not piety, in the reply of the old Spanish
hybrid to his young associate in harness as to the preference to
be given to level or to undulating roads. His answer was, " A
curse on both, and on the fiends that made them."
Lotteries, expelled from Northern States, still flourish here.
Every day, Sundays excepted, a new one is announced. The
290th of "The Alexandria Lottery for Internal Improvements
in the District of Columbia" was drawn on the 5th instant.
Three more have since been issued, and the 294th is to be
drawn to-day. " The Virginia Leesburg Lottery, for endowing
the Leesburg Academy and other purposes," was drawn on the
8th. Men, it is said here, will gamble, and why not direct the
business into beneficial public channels? They assuredly will,
wherever the laws stimulate the passion, and authorize hosts
of agents to carry it into every corner of the land. At best, lotteries are crusades against public morals —legislative schemes
to convert men into blacklegs-making worthy citizens worthless in every sense. For every lottery-gambler enriched, a score
have been made insane and a thousand beggared. But inconsistencies and their vindication are natural to man, else these
devices for improving public lands by impairing public morals,
and debauching a people's virtue to endow schools for their children, had not been so long tolerated.
Considerable business is done in Richmond, but not what is
due to the capital of the largest and earliest-colonized state of
the Union. Its population, though nearly double that of any
other Virginian town, is under 21,000-less than that of Low



LIFE IN BRAZIL.                    21
ell or Rochester, not half that of Cincinnati, and falling, in this
respect, behind northern and western cities of yesterday. The
people of the " Old Dominion" are said to be awakening to the
fact of other states, less favored by nature, shooting so fast
ahead of her, and some of the youngest leaving her in the
rear.
December 15. The bark having started yesterday in charge
of the pilot for Hampton Roads, along with a Bremen brig
bound for Bahia, I left Richmond, with Captain Smith, in a
Norfolk steamer, glad in view of getting to sea after so long a
detention. After steaming twenty-five miles down James River, we overtook the AIazeppa at anchor only half way to the
Roads, while the Bremen vessel was ahead and under sail, having passed a long bend where the wind that arrested our progress was favorable to hers.  She left the Capes four days before
us, and was probably seven hundred miles on her way to the
equator ere our pilot left us.  So much for a few hundred yards
start on a crooked river. Here we were detained two days. A
strong gale, with snow, set in, and increased till additional anchors had to be thrown out to prevent our being blown ashore.
To pass the time, suppose we glance over the floating boarding-house. There is something pleasing in the idea of occupying rooms in one of those hotels that take their inmates out to
see the world, and more especially the wonders of the deep.
The dining and drawing rooms are one. Built on deck, it extends from the stern to near the mainmast, where the entrance
is. The ceiling-beams are elevated sufficiently for men of ordinary stature, except when carrying their heads too high, in
which case they act the part of moral monitors, and reprove the
haughty. The side walls are made up of painted doors with
Venitian panels, each opening into a sleeping chamber. Look
into one, and you see all. Five and a half feet long, the same
in height, but less in width; each is a double-bedded room.
Those two shelves are the bedsteads; one, three feet above the
floor; the other, fifteen inches over it, and the same distance below the ceiling. The narrow ledges in front are to keep the occupants from rolling out. Were they deeper, no person could
get in nor out, and, as things are, it is not easy for strangers to
introduce themselves between the mattress and the coverlet.




'22                 SKETCHES OF
There may be those who with dignity get into and out of bed
ashore, but it is not to be done at sea.
A wash-stand is wedged fast at one end of the chamber, and
as you raise your face out of the lavatory, a miniature mirror
meets your eye. A space, four feet by two, is left for you to
move in. A prismatic strip of glass lets in light at the ceiling,
while air from the drawing-room circulates through the panelslats.
The dining-table is fastened to the floor, and has raised edges
to keep dishes from sliding off with their contents. The sideboard is overhead-a long and wide swinging shelf, in which
are perforations for every variety of table glass-ware. A fire,
in weather like this, is indispensable, and there glows the stove,
chained to the floor, with its pipe ascending through the roof.
Two skylights illumine the room by day, a lantern and lamp by
night. A ship's largest saloon is named the "cabin," a word
of low orgin, from cavea, a den, characteristic, no doubt, of primitive conveniences at sea. But now marine philology more than
keeps pace with improvements in shipping; passengers' berths
are C" state-rooms," though the poorest of all places for stately
people to show off in.
Two more distinct dwellings are on the main deck; one near
the bows, in which the sailors sleep, and sup, and hold soirees
-in naval nomenclature, the " forecastle," to distinguish it from
the captain's mansion, anciently known as the "rear," or "hindcastle." The other is located amidships, and accommodates a
number of friendless passengers, of whom few will live to see
Rio. It is anl independent floating dwelling, namely, the longboat, having its sides raised with neat carpentry, in which are
two windows, a cubit square, with shutters, and the whole covcred in with a tight roof, a copy, on a small scale, of Noah's
ark, and somewhat resembling it in its tenants too.
On either side of this abode is lashed a row of huge watercasks, leaving but a narrow path for the sailors between them
and the ship's bulwarks.  Forward of them rises a square structure, black inside and out as the iron chimney projecting from
it-a marine kitchen. Here the cook presides, close to his living larder. As if sensible of his vicinity, and of the daily onslaughts to be made on them, how his victims scream! and well




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                    23
Ihey may. A huge black fellow, wearing a high-pointed red
cap, a shirt of the same ominous color, with sleeves rolled above
his elbows, bare-legged, and knife in hand, he is enough to scare
others besides the chicken-hearted.
The cellars of the establishment are so well stocked with'lour, apples, hams, cheese, and other edibles, that we might
" put a girdle round the earth" before running out of victuals.
The family is not large-the captain, two mates, steward, cook,
and six men: eleven in all —myself, the only boarder, making
out the dozen.
17th. After drifting down twelve miles with the tide, we are
again at anchor opposite a small building of one story, at the
fbot of an excavation in the left bank-a country store owned
Iy an acquaintance of the pilot.  The steward suggested some
additions to his stock, and the captain, pilot, and I went ashore.
We found the proprietor a good, easy soul, and wondered how,so mild a man had lost an eye. Short, thick, and fifty, he wore
a fox-skin for a cap, a docked gray coat, and had both legs and
thighs incased in leather leggins.  To one heel a rusty spur
was strapped.  He had nothing in his store save a little chewing, tobacco.  His wife was tall, thin, and obviously an energetic helpmate.  She was miserably dressed, considering the
weather.  Her hair was streaming through rents in her cap, the.,sleeves of a light- calico gown stopped before they reached her
elbow, and, with the skirts, were scolloped without the aid of
scissors.  The dwelling part seemed desolate as the store.  The
only thing approaching to ornament was a huge heart-shaped
red pincushion, pendent from the mantle-shelf. Upon the latter lay a stalk of dried tobacco. Our host pulled off a leaf,
bruised it in his hand, charged a pipe, and invited us to follow
Iris example.  A black girl brought in an armful of wood, threw
it on the fire, and took a stand behind her mistress, of whose
gown she grasped a handful, and with two fingers in her mouth
glared at us as if we had come to buy her.
Major J — gave us a sketch of his life.  He began the
world with nothing; the day he married, seventy-five cents was
all he and his wife possessed; they had not a scrap of furnilure; a friend lent them a bed.  In twenty-five years they hlac
made $12,000 by hard labor, and now it was nearly all gone.




24                 SKETCHES OF
He had become surety for neighbors; his house, on the site of
the present one, was burned; a steam-boat captain cheated him
out of a cargo of fire-wood; a sloop shared the fate of his house;
he lost two negroes, and had no children. Troubles came so
thick that he thought Providence was trying to see how much
he could bear; he could not tell why, for he defied the world to
show he had cheated any one of a cent.
General challenges may sometimes be just; they are seldom
prudent. There is no telling when nor where the author of
mischief may pick up an opponent. Sometimes he succeeds
among the appellant's friends, which is bad enough, but it is
much worse when his own wife springs into the lists in answer
to the summons. At the innocent boasting-point of this Virginian Job's recital of his woes, his lady said his assertion was
not true! IHe has cheated somebody, and he knows it! Moreover, she had told him he would be punished before he died.
Hitherto we had sat silent as Bildad, Eliphaz, and Zophar over
their friend, but one of us now asked how he lost the slaves.
Both, he said, were young and promising; one, a girl, worth
$150; the other, a smart fellow, was cheap at $300. He never
knew what ailed them; they took sick, and died on his hands.
The only effects of the felonious charge were a slackening of
the puffs, a half withdrawal of the stem from his lips, and a
placid stare at the accuser. He immediately returned to sucks
and puffs again. For my part, I was greatly relieved, but not
so his mate.  "Yes, he has cheated somebody;" here I felt
like going out; but her next shot hit the mark and cleared
away the mist.  "He had cheated himself —he had trusted every body."
At a short distance back of the house stood a miserable hut.
While looking toward it, I observed a movement in the bushes
above, and every now and then caught a glimpse of something
working its way through them. As it drew near, it proved to
be a negro moving on his knees, and with the aid of a stick,
dragging two withered and bandaged legs through the ice and
snow behind him-a harrowing spectacle. By skipping some
and wading more, I reached the open entrance of the hut, but
could see nothing of him. All was black and chill within.
There was no opening for light save the low door-way.  A




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   25
flickering flame at length broke out, and showed he had crept
into a corner, where he was fanning a few half-extinct embers.
Poor fellow! he was but twenty-five, and quite intelligent.  He
lost the use of his limbs twelve years ago through rheumatism,
was soon after sold, and had been traded away many times
since. What a fate is his!
On coming out, his mistress was feeding a crowd of turkeys,
pea-hens, common fowls, and pigeons. The hawks, she told
me, got more of her chickens and pigeons than her own family.
They have now, she observed, only five slaves, and the cripple
I had seen was worth all the rest; he cuts down more cords of
wood a day than any man in the county; they bought him six
years ago for $50, and he had earned them a thousand; he was
a good hand at fishing, and at almost any thing.
Although the captain obtained no eggs for money, he got a
line black cat for nothing. I thought him joking when asking
ibr it, and am half sure the lady had no idea of being deprived
of it on giving an indirect affirmative; but he forthwith snatchcd up the astonished animal and took it aboard.
Two tedious days more elapsed ere we reached the Roads, and
anchored amid a fleet of vessels waiting for a change of wind.
The village of Hampton lies on our left, Norfolk at the right,
and Old Point Comfort three miles ahead of us. Yon massive
battery, rising out of the water opposite " Old Point," and three
quarters of a mile from it, is the famous "Rip Raps"-an expressive sobriquet. The water between it and the Norfolk side
of the shore is too shallow for large craft to float through. All
must pass in and out between the two forts whose names are
so diverse; one offering you consolation, if a friend; the other
ready to knock and tear you to pieces, if an enemy.




2'6                  SKETCHES OF
CHAPTER II.
o'i Days' Sail: Beat out. —New Sensations.-Captain in Costume.-A Gale.Sea-sickness.-Water Ram. - Gulf Stream.-Christmas Carols.-Human Daring.-Ship hunted by marine Demons.-Hard Life of Seamen.-Cook and Captain.-Enchanting Skies.-Minute Crabs.
December 20. We are still lying opposite the mouth of Chesapeake Bay, after spending a week in descending the lowest of
the five parallel streams of which it forms the basin.  The barometer has suddenly fallen from 300.25 to below 28~, a certain
indication of a change in the weather. Our detention makes
heavy draughts on the captain's patience.  He swears he will
pass Cape Henry before night, let what will happen: a pretty
piece of blasphemy this would have been in an ancient mariner;
but, alas for Neptune! instead of bulls reeking on his altars,
lhe receives little from sailors now but exhausted quids thrown
in his face.
After two unsuccessful attempts, we at last beat out, and by
5 P.M. the forts were miles behind us.  Now fairly off, with
ihe wind abaft, the ship, hitherto so sober and demure, moves
as if mad with joy at getting into her element, rolling and pitclling from pure exuberance of spirits. A stranded whale just
floated over a sand-bar could not make off more merrily.  Her
very timbers creak in concert with the flapping sails and whistling in the rigging.  Eheu!  But this is a change!  If she
minced and minueted down the river, she is leaving it in a gallopade. How the ocean roars, and how the water hisses where
she cuts it, as if her bows were red-hot plowshares! She's going to " make a night of it"-to treat us to a ball. All things
are preparing for one, and not a few have begun rehearsing.
The captain, as master of ceremonies, dressed early. Retiring after dinner in citizen's dress, he sprung forth a singularlooking sea beau. I did not recognize him, and was on the
point of asking who the stranger was, when he announced himself viva voce.  A glazed hat with a hemispherical crown covered his caput; the wide and flexile brim was drawn at two op



LIFE IN BRAZIL.                     27
posite points close to his florid cheeks by spun-yarn ribbons,
tied in a slip-knot under the inferior maxilla. An oil-skin coat,
or cloak, or shirt, or chemise-it had properties belonging to all
four-reached from chin to ankles: of the color of bees'-wax, it
was not more supple than stiff paper; the upright collar embraced his neck, and was made to hug it closer by a fillet cut
from the same web as the hat-bands.  But the strangest portion of his costume were his French boots.  Inflexible as marble, and the legs thick almost as the soles, he raised his skirts,
and showed his knees sunk in them, with scollops cut out behind. I had supposed nothing rigid should be about a sailor's
dress, nor could I perceive how in such things he could act the
skipper.  He did, though, and in style too.
The wind rose to a gale, and, blowing directly astern, caused
the vessel to roll most fearfully.  From no other quarter could
the effect be so distressing. I no longer could withstand the
general tendency to change of place and posture.  MIluch against
my will, my feet began a series of ungraceful steps toward the
cabin, where matters were no better than outside. Several trunks
had got loose, and, with a dozen stools, were rushing with violence from side to side. e'The pantry-door flew open, and a souptureen, with dishes, and a score of sound and maimed plates,
came sweeping over the floor. The steward, securing his erratic
charge, threw the fragments overboard, and blessed the ship, the
wind, or something else, in subdued but bitter terms.
Night is fast letting down her curtain, and the lamps above
are kindling, but I am sick already of the evening's entertainments. They agree not with my head nor legs, and against
them I feel my stomach rising. The taste more than a feast
suffices; but the worst thing about sea-revels is that, however
desirous one is to be excused, no excuse is taken, no begging
off allowed, no " not at homes" admitted.
It is impossible to convey to those who never left the land
an adequate idea of the distresses of a sea-sick voyager; but let
them imagine a person like myself approaching the ocean, and,
when launched upon it, half smiling at his previous fears, yet
sensible while he smiles of a je ne sais guoi sensation flitting
about his epigastrium, so very slight, however, that he tells
himself it is mere imagination.  A struggle between this new




28                  SKETCHES OF
feeling and his fears goes on, it may be, for an hour or two,
when there is no mistaking either. He now no longer rules his
inner or his outer being; his faculties are flying and his feet forsaking him. Creation reels: he looks out, and lo! the earth
has left her orbit, and the heavens are rushing with her into
chaos. His nature seems dissolving; electric halos play round
his bursting eye-balls; he feels the sutures of his cranium open,
and his viscera about to leave him-his soul seems taking her
departure. Suppose the victim seeks his bed, beyond question
the best place for him in such weather as this, yet even there he
is rolled and tossed, jerked and shaken, till he becomes indifferent to life, and even wishes for its extinction.
Though some persons get over sea-sickness in a few days,
many are never rid of it till they step on shore. Old sailors
have slight attacks after remaining a few months on land. The
pilot told me he was fourteen years at sea before it wholly left
him, and he named some who had died from its violence.  I
designed fairly to test during the voyage a few alleged specifics. I did so, and the result was, none were of any or of marked
avail. Lying horizontally mitigates the evil, and if the vessel
does not roll, nausea and retching then subside. One proposed
remedy is a fillet or belt drawn tightly round the abdomen.
With some, this may possibly prove beneficial; with me, it might
as well have been strapped around the mainmast. Another is
-what has, in fact, been tried ever since the disease was known,
every patient by a natural impulse practicing it-to rmesmerize
the enemy: divert his attention to distant matters, and will him
to be gone.  "Be firmly persuaded he can not approach you,
and he wont."  I have known preachers of this doctrine have
opportunities of testing it, when they found that fools and philosophers were alike prostrated, and equally reduced to helplessness.
At midnight the storm, for the stiff gale had risen into one,
was raging. At intervals the captain's voice was heard amid
the bellowing elements, and feeble and indistinct replies, as from
a great distance, came down from aloft.  Hail pattered on the
skylight and kept whizzing among the rigging. I wondered
how the men withstood its fury. The fowls and pigs sent forth
cries of distress, and the bewildered cat kept scratching and




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                    29
miauling at my room door for admittance. Wrhere was no keeping her out afterward.
M3/y pillow was within a few inches of the water, and, of
course, I heard as well as felt it booming against the planks,
and boiling and gurgling as it rushed by. While ideas of foundering, running on rocks, or against some other vessel, were invading me, there came suddenly such a blow, somewhere beneath me, as made the vessel stop and fairly spin again. Shaken
by the jar, I involuntarily shouted " What is that?" but a stentor's voice could not, at the time, have been heard on deck. It
was so short, sharp, and tremendous, that I knew not to what to
attribute it except that the hull had been struck by the fluke
of a whale.  These creatures have crushed in ships' timberswhat if some sound or rotten plank has been knocked off, and I
about to drop, unseen of any one this dark night, into the
abyss! Then I thought of sword-fishes plunging their nasal
weapons clear through the sides of vessels-what if one should
transfix me here! Well, such a death is preferable to sinking
slowly down among marine monsters that would tear one asunder, and fight over one's disjointed limbs before sensation left:
them. Of the two kinds of death, give me the quickest.
As if taken at my word, there came another shock, close to
where I lay, that made the ship and all within her shiver. She
could not have been more stunned if the blow had come from a
battering-ram propelled by giants.  It was succeeded by others
during the night, and not till morning did I learn they were indeed blows from water-rams-huge waves snapping directly under and against her.
21st. Wind still high and snow falling. We are dashing
across the Gulf Stream, which, like a boiling caldron, is covered with thick-ascending vapor. Ere entering it, the steam
rose like a high wall before us. The central portion of the current is, of course, the warmest, the heat diminishing as the volume spreads out on either hand. At 8 A.AM. its temperature
was 660, at noon 720, the air meanwhile below the freezing
point. Unfortunately, the temperature of the sea before reaching it was not taken.
I was anxious to ascertain some particulars of a body of water that circulates incessantly round the globe, and silently works




30                  SKETCHES OF
great changes on it, but could not keep the deck. A counterpart of the aerial current of rotation, the main stream and its
branches modify the configurations of continents, and thereby
diversify its own action and effects. Besides its dynamic powers and whatever influence it may have on piscine life —the natural abode of some tribes, and perhaps an occasional and necessary retreat for others-its thermal influence is obvious.  But
for it the Arctic seas had not been open. The volumes of heated waters from the torrid zone which it pours without ceasing
into high latitudes not only serve to moderate the heat of one
and cold of the other, but they prevent the polar ice from enlarging its dominion.
A fine lesson in mechanical science might long ago have been
learned from it. If the reader has kept up with modern progress of the arts, he is aware of a system recently introduced for
heating public and private buildings by hot water.  It is indeed
I: fact, and ever will be one, that in every operation of nature,
magnificent or minute, simple or complicated, an important invention is anticipated or suggested. There is no valuable dev-ice but what may be found in God's museum of machines.
Thus, in the warm channel we are rushing through, we behold
one of His "hot-water circulators," by which the coldest latitudes
are tempered with heat drawn from the hottest.  The furnace
and boiler are on the equatorial belt, equidistant from the regions
to be warmed.  "I hains" proceed toward the poles, sending out
branches as they proceed, and, after yielding up their warmth,
return circuitously for a fresh supply, precisely as do their artificial imitations. The principle of action-the diminished gravity
of a fluid or portions of a fluid by heat, in both is one.  But
how different is Nature's mode of carrying it out.  She uses
lo metallic or other stiff tubing as we do, but conveys the hot
liquid through channels formed in the cold, the most flexile, and
lasting, and yielding of conduits. The one we are floating in
varies in width from twenty to two hundred leagues.
22d. The cold moderating. Thermometer at 8 A.M., 55~.
WTind still abaft, and no mitigation of the tormenting rolling.
Pale, faint, and feeling low enough, loathing all food, and sickening at the sight of a glass of hot toddy kindly pressed on me
by the captain, I had to retire after trying repeated cures for




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                    3i
sea-sickness. It appears to me that no human power can cure
it, but that, like the storm without, it must be left to exhaust
itself. During the night I staggered from a sofa to the cabin
door; one glimpse showed the sky falling and the sea rushing
up to meet it. That was enough. I reeled back, and, the first
time for three days, fell asleep in the mammoth and roughlyrocked cradle. Petrels and other oceanic birds pass their nights
on the waves. Tossed to and fro, now down in a watery glen,
and now on a mountain crest, they sleep on. Can man do this?
I-e must, if he sleep at all at sea.  The only difference is, he
has a plank between him and the billows.
24th. We are passing into warmer and calmer latitudes. The
wind is light, with a splendid day overhead. During the night
we passed within one hundred and twenty miles of Bermuda.
25th. Awoke to Christmas by a dismal carol.  How evanescent are human hopes! I-low quickly are they blighted! We
hailed yesterday as a harbinger of fine weather through the
holidays, and it has ushered in as rough a time as we have had
yet. Long before day the wind rose to a hard gale, which drove
the vessel headlong. Every plunge she made a sea went hissing over her, while dark waves and boiling foam danced round
her. In the cabin, the barometer kept swinging with a violence
that threatened to throw it out of the gimbals-one moment
perpendicular, the next parallel to the ceiling. [Of course this
was an illusion; it was the ship that was vibrating, the instrument being comparatively at rest.]
Of the restless, daring, cdanger-defying nature of man, there
can be no better proof than a few individuals thus riding over
the trackless and turbulent deep, pursuing their solitary way
with unerring certainty, through storms and darkness, even to
antipodal seas and harbors, and turning, as they go, the warring elements to their purpose!  Without witnessing something of the kind —taking a few trips in an ocean phaeton, and
marking the skill of the charioteers —it is not easy duly to appreciate the value of nautical science and of nautical men.
Noon, on deck. So great is the commotion, that the distanthorizon all round us is seen jagged and broken with the heaving
waters.  The poor ship, like a wounded sea-bird hunted by
shoals of marine demons, struggles hard to escape. I can com



32                   SKETCHES OF
pare the scene to nothing else. One moment panting she flies,
and the next is overtaken and pulled shuddering over, her
joints and masts creaking as if crushed by their fangs.  Encouraged by the helmsman, she rights herself and proceeds, butsoon they fasten on the other side, and down she groaning leans.
Again she recovers herself and throws them off. Next, leaping
at her throat, she raises her bows till half her keel is out of the
water, and then plunges in desperation on them.  Staggered
and trembling, it would seem as if she must be torn to pieces.
But a short lull ensues, as if her foes were wearied.  She
breathes a while, her wings are freshly braced, and as the howling of the pursuers reaches her, she takes to flight as with renewed determination to escape them. In this way the pursuit
has been kept up, and, with little variation, will be till she find
safety in Rio Bay. Then she will refit, and thence lead them
another steeple-chase of five or six thousand miles home again.
I-ow the cook managed to prepare dinner passed my comprehension. The steward brought in soup, approaching one moment as if climbing a ladder, and the next as if descending one
behind him, so precipitous and declivitous became the base he
trod on.  Before reaching the table, a sea was shipped that;
burst in the cabin door, floored him and the bouillon, deluged
the pantry and several state-rooms.  Midnight passed before
the water was bailed and swabbed out. The rest of the dinner
had been washed away. Thus the sea-sprites, if they could
not sink the ship, knew how to spoil our victuals. A hundred
times I have wished myself out of their hands, were it only to
waste time in coquetting with Virginian Naiades down James
River.
Verily, the life of common seamen is a hard one. Night
bringos them no discharge from duty, and in rough weather all
must be on the alert.  When relieved from watch, they retire
to dark and loathsome forecastles, whose atmosphere would protLuce asphyxia in persons of weak nerves, thaw and change their
garments, if a change they have, and catch what sleep they can.
Unused to the amenities of social intercourse, without leisure
or taste for mental improvement, no stimulus to ambition, but
kept to their labor as oxen or horses are, they can not but be(come more or less animalized (that is, the great majority, for




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                    33
there are noble exceptions). The sea is designed as a theatre
for human enterprise, and the profession of a sailor is as honorable, and now almost as indispensable, as that of a tiller of the
soil. Constituting, as both classes do, essential and important
links in civilization's chain, the day can not be distant when
they will be permanently elevated in their own and in the world's
estimation.
A watch, with a loose pendent ribbon and seal, hangs from a
nail in the cabin. Going to wind it up, my mind, meanwhile,
engaged on other thoughts, I put forth my hand, and was somewhat startled to see the key come deliberately six or seven
inches from the wall to meet me-a feat as unexpected at the
moment as would be that of a walking-cane anticipating its owner's wishes. The incident may be thought a common one, and
so it was, but at the time I was not prepared for it.
27th. Yesterday the wind was light and fair, but the troubled ocean had not lost the effects of the previous day's tantrums, and now another gale has come, and more ground and
lofty tumbling.  The temperature steadily increases.  At 6
A.M., thermometer 68~, which a shower of rain reduced in an
hour to 64~. The cabin feels close, and the state-rooms more
so. New substances, as cheese and other stores, are volatilized,
whose odors, mingling with those exhaled from staple bases
of every ship's perfumery, are exceedingly distressing; every
draught of the horrid fluid received into lungs already sore is
inexpressibly sickening.
The cook has given out, having been unwell for some days.
The captain now acts the physician, and the steward apothecary.
One prescribes, the other prepares the medicine.  The patient
was called aft to state his case, to place his hands where his
pains were, open his mouth, and show his tongue. Prompt as
Galen, the captain dictated a prescription, which after seeing
prepared, I besought Heaven to spare my health till I could
get ashore.
30th. The gale of the 27th lasted two days, during which
the vessel rocked and plunged so violently, there was no sitting
at the table or keeping any thing on it. More libations and offerings were made to the divinities of rough weather. Yesterday the ship was easy, and ran before the wind southeasterly,
C




34                   SKETCHES OF
as if for the coast of Guinea. This morning bright and fair.
" Turned out" early. This phrase is quite appropriate. There
is here no rising from or sitting up in bed. To enter and
emerge is literally to turn in and out. The sky at sunrise inexpressibly beautiful, and introductory to an enchanting series
of dissolving views.
At first the entire canopy was gray and dotted, almost uniformly, with fleecy masses, each slightly shaded with umber.
Soon these, and the most distant of them, were set off with
golden borders, in which livery they hailed the rising monarch
of the day, and kept varying their forms and positions as he
rose, as if for joy at his arrival. His own robes of burnished
gold were next exchanged for those of radiant silver, and anon
each cloud was fringed with the like. These now gathered
round the horizon, leaving the vault a pure ethereal azure, in
which the god, in undimmed glory, mounted. In this manner
the ball opened for the day, and the dance of cirri and cumuli
began. With a scene as glorious, the evening entertainments
ended.
The horizon in fine relief all day. What rather surprised
me was its apparent nearness. The circle looked as if not more
than four or five miles across, suggesting the idea of neighborhood, and of new objects coming into view on our approaching
the outline, as when journeying on land. The surface of the
sea helped to strengthen the illusion: in the morning it presented a series of moderately-sized hills, with here and there a narrow
valley stretching along between green sloping ridges, while toward evening the whole became a lively representation of undulating meadows.
31st. Wind light, water smooth, and sky overcast. "Sungalls," resembling small patches of rainbow, and indicative of
squally weather, appeared. Picked up specimens of sea-weed,
the little berries and leaves incrusted with microscopic shell, or,
rather, cell-work, done by coral artists. Living crabs, some not
larger than a pin's head, were sticking to and starting life's
voyage on them. We have accounts of enterprising human
travelers, but what an array of strange facts and incidents would
the lives and adventures of a few of these marine foundlings
furnish!




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                       35
CHAPTER III.
Twenty-four Days' Sail: Sea Sorrows. —A Genoese. —Rough Weather.-A Flying-fish.-Flowers of Death.-Oceanic Skies.-The Atmosphere charged with
red Dust.-Firmamental Paintings.-Flying-fish Latitudes.-Cream-colored or
Quaker Skies.-Flying-fish again.-A Meniscus.-A Squall.-A ship in Distress.-A young Fly.-In the Variables.-The Ocean unchangeable.-Temperature of Air and Water.-Brazilian Coasts.
January 1. The old year expired in convulsions, and the
new one has come forth in a storm. The wind is bellowing
with rage, rain falling in torrents, and we bounding on a dark
and raging ocean.  A bad night, during which sleep was impossible, is succeeded by a worse morning. Unable to stand,
too sick to sit up, no resting in bed, and no resting-place out
of it, loathing all food, and bereft of all strength-what more
can sea-sickness do? Could the feeling be got up artificially in
prisons, it would be mightier than the douche in taming rebellious spirits. For three days more we had both rough and
moderate weather, with wind for us and against us; now running for the Cape of Good Hope, and next driven toward Gibraltar.
6th. Nothing could be more grateful than our progress yesterday. With the air at summer-heat, we sailed over placid
waters beneath a glorious sky. It repaid us for a week's bad
weather, and gave us a taste of the sailor's paradise. This
morning I was on deck at early dawn, and watched the dark
gray canopy slowly turn into a light dull green, out of which
swarms of brown masses came; a little while, and vivid red
spots grew out between them, and then each cloud appeared
with a crimson fringe; both spots and fringe increase in brightness, short streaks of vermilion next appear at the eastern horizon, and now, shooting far above it, enliven the whole firmament. They are rays of the rising monarch's crown, and yonder comes his glowing face! We shall have the pleasures of
yesterday repeated. So I thought; but lo! in seven minutes




36.        SKETCHES OF
he retired, and a sombre leaden screen enveloped all. So quick
a change in Nature's kaleidoscope I have seldom seen. A brig
hove in sight, and by noon we exchanged signals. Her flag is
little known in these seas, and yet it ought to be no stranger,
since under it Columbus sailed for several years. She was a
Genoese.  By 5 P.M. we had run her out of sight, her sailing
qualities being little better than those of the rickety Nina, or
the dull flag-ship of the world's great admiral.
8th. Yesterday the barometer presaged bad weather, and it
came. The sea ran higher than ever. As the opportunity was
favorable for observing the height of the waves, I spent some
time in watching them. Instead of mountains, they were moderate-sized hills. None appeared over twenty feet high. In
reality, their altitude was only about twelve feet, because their
bases were sunk about as much below the general surface as
their peaks rose above it. The ship, with most of her sails
furled, is tossed about almost like a feather in a whirlwind.
Racked and shaken as she is, with 300 tons or more of cargo
liable to displacement, it is surprising to me how she holds together; one moment careening till the water spouts through the
scuppers, the next her bows rising as if to rest on her stern, and
the next plunging as if to stand on her head. These move,
ments are so irregular, and often so suddenly arrested, that, as
when a sea breaks under her, she quivers to her centre.
Two stormy-petrels kept flitting at the stern.  Restless,
these tiny lovers of the troubled ocean know no rest. Superstition makes them unhappy souls of departed sailors, while the
huge gull and huger albatross are those of wicked mates and
masters.
The sun tried hard to-day to push aside the watery screen;
but,a few short, ochre-colored beams, which had a singular effect
on the hazy atmosphere, was all he could do in the morning,
and then but for a few moments. The general aspect of the
ocean is remarkable. It might be compared to a calico pattern
of black and white spots. The waves are black, their crests
pure white, and, at a distance, both appear in equal numbers
and dimensions.
A flying-fish came on board; but for its wings I should have
taken it for a mackerel. Common to seamen and familiar to




LIFE IN BRAZII,.                   37
naturalists, it was new to me, and may be to some readers, hence
its portrait, a pretty accurate one, is introduced.
FLYING-FISH.
From the nose to the extremity of the tail, twelve inches;
deepest part of the body, two inches; the longest side of each
wing, seven. The lower lobe of the tail prolonged beyond the
other, designed, no doubt, to facilitate the act of springing from
the water.  The wings-enlargements of pectoral fins-have
their translucent membrane strengthened by rods or rays, which
diverge with the expanding surface, and still farther to distribute their support, each one becomes split about half way up the
wing, and the two branches, after spreading apart, become in
like manner divided as they approach the margin. Having
nothing else to do, I began to moralize on the unhappy fate of
the pretty stranger. If it flew on board to escape a dolphin's
jaws; how fatal its mistake! and if allured by the ship's lights,
it is an emblem of many a country youth, whom the glare of city
life has drawn from home to his destruction. While thus musing, the captain told the cook to fry it for breakfast. There
was nothing outre in this, but it grated strangely on my meditations and dispersed them.
9th. Wind moderated, but the swell little abated.  It takes
time for an uproarious ocean to settle down after the disturbing
cause has ceased to act. I noticed three or four delicate yellow




38                  SKETCHES OF
flowers, less than a pea, growing out of a partition joint in the
cabin.  They were "the flowers of death," the "Immortelle"
of French florists and undertakers.  Cultivated in grave-yards,
of them wreaths for the dead are formed.  Welcome at sea as
every trifling incident is, there are those, in whom ancient superstitions live, that would have construed the appearance of
these pretty things into an intimation that the fate of Cloudesly
Shovel, and the myriads who have found coffins in cabins and
cemeteries in sunken ships, was about to be ours. The vessel
had taken a cargo of cotton to Europe, the cabin having been
filled as well as the hold, and in that way the seeds probably
found their way into her.
10t1/. A swelling sea, but a glorious day. Hitherto we have
received the wind on the starboard, but having this morning
crossed the edge of the great trading current, the larboard side
is turned to it.
I pity those who could sail in such a day as this, and under
the canopies that covered us, without perceiving God's love of
the beautiful, and the means every where provided to foster the
taste in man. Were I a painter, I would fill portfolios with
oceanic skies, from the gorgeous to the plain, dark, and awful.
Copies will in time be required by philosophy. Of several rich
scenes, I jotted particulars of one: a narrow, slate-colored ribbon circumscribed the horizon, and upon it reposed a broad belt
of vermilion, interspersed with soft dashes of India-ink, shaded
with umber. This glowing field merged insensibly above into
a bright cream or yellow-a new firmamental tint-and this
into a delicate pale green, which deepened upward as it approached the summit of the dome, while over all amber-stained
masses floated, diminishing in size, but deepening in tone as
they descended, and varying in figure every where.
12th. Another gale, and the ship practicing the polka. Sun
veiled since yesterday morning, when we entered the tropic.
As the captain and I were conversing just within the cabindoor, something came flashing between us and dropped on the
floor-a flying-fish, allured by the lamp.  Nearly killed by the
blow, it died before a bucket of water to put it in could be
drawn. Others came on board during the night.  We are approaching latitudes 130 and 140, called "Flying-fish Latitudes,"




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   39
from the fish abounding in those parallels. Such is the velocity of their motions, that a portion of the nose or scalp is left
wherever they strike; marks are numerous on the ship's sides.
13th. The sun just showed his face and left us. Thermometer, at sunrise, 720~; noon, 730; sunset, 720. For the last
ten days the rise of the mercury has seldom exceeded three degrees between daylight and evening, often not two. The wind
is strong from the east, and brings with it a red impalpable
powder, whose presence is visible on the windward side of the
sails and rigging, and is thought to have been collecting for the
past two days. It is only by bringing the burr or loose fibres
on the outside of a rope between the eye and the sun that its
presence and color are made manifest. The captain calls it
"African sand"-says he has observed the like before. The
moon this evening, as well as the sun during the day, obscured
by mist; supposed to be, in some measure, caused by the atmosphere being surcharged with the dust.
14th. Air, at sunrise, 72~; at 2 P.M., 760; at sunset, 740~.
A blandness not felt before prevails. Sun obscured all day.
Spent most of it watching the movements of flying-fish. Schools
of fifty to a hundred every now and then sprang up and darted
off on either hand as we approached, reminding one of coveys
of quails and other game disturbed on moors or prairies. I
could hardly persuade myself they were not birds.
At and after sunset appeared panoramic paintings, which no
human pencil could approximate, nor human pen portray half
their beauties. Imagine the zenith of azure diminishing in tone
down one third of the vault, and there blending into living emerald, which, as it descended, vanished through a straw tint into
brilliant white at 250 above, and continued with increasing
brightness near to the horizon. The heaving waves at our feet,
constituting the dark and bold foreground of the picture, had
dwindled into rest, and a pale band of misty brown, 5~ or 60
in depth, ran, as usual, round the horizon, its upper and broken
edge, of course, in strong relief.
Upon it rested, in one line, two adjoining streaks or short
strata, of unequal length, densely black, and shaded mellow
with umber. Two smaller lay just above, between one of which
and the longest below the glowing orb peeped out. They did




40                  SKETCHES OF
not open sufficiently to show the perfect ball; portions of its
upper and lower boundaries were hid. Three more small strata,
of a deep chocolate hue, were gracefully arrayed above, in manner of an eyebrow. Behind, and stretching far above, was
something like a fawn-colored fan, half opened, whose leaves
were marked with silver rays, proceeding from and centring in
the orb. A similar fan reversed was unfolded immediately beneath, but assumed a darker shade from the misty belt over
which it spread. And now the finest trait-some eight or nine
cumuli, picturesquely shaped, and of the purest creamn color,
formed a broken arch over the whole. The crown of this wide
curve reached high into the emerald field; its wings of smaller
masses descended through the glistening cream and white nearly to the dark band at the base of all. The highest portions
of it were of a lighter tinge than those below, so much so that
in the varying backgrounds the whole appeared in equal relief.
I never saw nor imagined a scene so purely chaste and captivating, and never expect to see the like again.
As the sun sunk, the scene changed into another about as
rich and novel. The clouds gradually turned to chocolate, and
the groundwork to cream, which lightened in tone upward.
Again, the zenith next was purple, which merged below into
crimson, this into pink, and this into a light and dead yellow,
which touched the narrow band at the horizon, now between
cinereous and slate. Clouds, varying in figure and magnitude,
floated over this gorgeous groundwork, all of deep umber, their
lower sides showing edges of red more or less vivid.
15th, 6 A.IM. Air, 74~; rose during the day to 76~, and
was at that two hours after the sun went down. By 7 A.M.,
the ash-tinged curtain vanished. At 8, the king of day was
still concealed by a moderate-sized cloud, which rose with him.
By 9 he threw it off, and shone in undiminished glory. The
phenomenon of his being thus accompanied with a rising screen,
as if to conceal him till his toilet is completed, is common. In
evenings, similar attendants wait on him till he sinks out of
sight.
Flying-fish numerous. Flocks, of from twenty to a hundred,
in one case twice that number, spring up as the ship plows in
among them. They seem to take the air for pleasure as well




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                    41
as to escape danger, groups and individuals being observed leaping and making short trips as if in mere wantonness. They fly
low, seldom mounting higher than six or eight feet, but they
have the power to rise and fall with the heaving surface, and to
change their direction laterally.  While the greater part of a
group goes off in a right line, individuals turn aside and pursue
different courses, just like birds disturbed in a rice or wheat
field. Sometimes you are ready to swear they are swallows
skimming along for flies, so strongly do they, in certain lights,
resemble them. WVhen going in a direct line from you, their
black backs are foreshortened, and the wings in relief. In some
positions the fluttering of these organs is distinctly visible, resembling trembling plates of mica.
The distance they pass over varies with the impulse that
rouses them. While some descend not far from you, others,
more timid, dart far away. The ordinary flight of a group may
be averaged at two hundred feet, but some proceed four or five
times that distance. I have seen single fish pass over three
hundred yards.
At 11 A.IM., the sun again obscured by a dark brown cloud
of moderate size, beneath which a drab curtain stretches out,
bordered with a wide cinereous hem below. From the concealed
orb, white and cream-tinted streams descend, producing a soft
and singular contrast with the bright blue and green grounds
above, with their light floating masses. In the afternoon another rich groundwork of cream appeared, and upon it a numerous flock of chocolate fleeces, all edged with white and silver-a glorious picture! The day's drop-scene was almost as
ravishing as that of yesterday, exhibiting much the same colors,
but differently disposed. A few particulars may give artists an
idea of its character. The zenith blue, vanishing into greenish
white, and thence into vivid white at about half way down the
vault; then a light cream tint commenced, and continued increasing in depth of tone to the ribbon of slate at the horizon.
Words are wanting to describe the richness of this cream below,
its delicacy above, and purity throughout. The sun was about
8~ above the horizon, glowing as yesterday like an eye of molten gold between eyelids of densest jet.
Six or seven degrees above him lay a dark brown fleece not




42                     SKETCHES OF
less than 20~ in length and 40 in depth, and, but for some patches resembling dark tortoise-shell, might be called a raven black.
In front of this shot up from the orb a fan of rays, and a similar
one opened below him. Each did not exceed a sextant, or sixth
part of a circle.  Their effect, relieved and modified as they
were by the different-colored media, was of course indescribable. Then, on either hand, and all above, were seen single
clouds of varying forms and sizes, all of a rich chocolate hue,
their under sides being darkest, and edged with silver. Those
lowest were deeper toned than those above. Their longer axes
were inclined to the departing luminary, and moved after him,
as if hastening to bid him good-night.
These cream-colored scenes might be named "Quaker skies,"
for here the heavens, in their loveliest costume, not only sanction, but adopt the very hues that pretty sisters of the sect prefer. Can George Fox, William Penn, or other voyaging patriarchs of the Friends, while on missions over seas, have received
their canonical colors immediately from above? caught the idea
and inspiration literally from the clouds?
Happily was the solar orb made patron of the fine arts. Unrivaled scene-painter as he is to this and some scores more of
worlds, it is to me inconceivable that he can turn from planetary easels pictures excelling those of yesterday and to-day.
16th. Air, at sunrise, 760; at sunset, 78~; water, 79~.  The
red dust obviously accumulating; one of the fore-sails, an old
one, looks as if it had received a coat of light brick-colored
paint, so much and evenly has the dust collected on it. We
are opposite Senegambia and Soudan, which border on the Great
Desert, whence the captain thinks the shower comes.  He sent
a man aloft to collect specimens for me, but, after several ineffectual trials, I sent up a sheet of foolscap paper, which he
rubbed over the sail, and sent it down coated over with a light
reddish or pale brick-colored tint. The particles are so minute,
and adhere so firmly to the villous nap, that no other way occurred to me to obtain them.*
* Most of this colored sheet was distributed to friends. Professor Girard, of the
Smithsonian Institution, identified the dust with the atmospheric infusoria, of Ehrenberg. To it the predominance of the cream color in the celestial paintings was most
probably due. See "Red Fogs and Sea Dust" in Maury's Winds and Currents.




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                    43
Flying-fish are exceedingly numerous. Every where they
are darting out of and playing over the liquid furrows, obviously enjoying themselves as they spring from wave to wave, and
turning their pearly sides and snowy abdomens to view. There
is no watching them frisking over the green uneven surface
without reverting to wrens and linnets in their native meads.
Voice only is wanting to perfect the illusion; but, though terrestrial glades resound with vocal melody, the ocean has no
songsters.
Kirby, Roget, and other naturalists, who teach that the wings
of flying-fish are only buoyant, not progressive organs, are mistaken-decidedly so.
The ground of the evening's drop-scene was a light and dead
yellow.
17th, 6 A.M. Air, 780~; water, 79.50; barometer, 30.1~.
The wind wavers as if about to leave us.  Sea smooth; air
balmy, but very damp. Toward evening the solar disk shone
feebly through the dense mist unaccompanied by a single ray.
18th, 6 A.M. Air 79.50; water, 800; barometer, 30.1~. A
universal haze. We are moving through a sea of vapor; our
clothes are damp as if wetted with a sponge.  More symptoms
of having reached the southern border of the northeast trades.
The water moves in light swells, resembling waving grain, while
here and there a solitary fish springs up like a lapwing in a coppice.  Toward evening some dull fawn, cream, and chocolate
tints came out.
The sea and sky present the figure of a meniscus: I am probably mistaken, but I fancy I can detect the liquid convex beneath the ethereal concave. Perhaps the illusion, if it be one,
is partly due to watching vessels coming up the watery curve
before us, and passing down it in our rear, as one did yesterday.
Noon. Barometer, 29.5~. The men, reclining at ease in their
Sunday attire, are roused in a twinkling to take in sail. Ere
they succeeded, a portentous whizzing reached us, and the ship
at once changed her easy, lounging pace into a dancing one;
the sky meanwhile, shrouded in blackness, poured down rain
as from a broken waterspout. In four minutes the thermometer fell from 820 to 770. The change was not less in the personnel of men and officers. They were drenched, and the cap



44                  SKETCHES OF
tain, in his oilskin chemise, appeared as if he had been plunged
in copal varnish, hands, face, and all —a marine Achilles dipped
in water-proof.
By 1 P.M. the squall was over. As the atmosphere cleared,
a vessel was seen coming up in the horizon before us. As she
rose, her topmast was missing, and soon a signal to speak us
was hoisted. She was a British bark, laden with copper ore
from Peru; had lost a mast, two jib-booms, and two men in
rounding the'Horn. In a ragged condition, and short of bread,
Captain Smith supplied her with flour, for which he refused pay.
She crossed the line yesterday. After learning that she was in
need of nothing more, we hoisted sail, and went on our way
with gladness and lightness of heart, conscious of having done
good on this Sabbath-day.
19th, 6 A.M. Air, 780; water, 80~; barometer, 300.  The
sun rose in resplendent beauty. The scene drew forth exclamations of wonder and delight. The entire expanse was profusely studded with every variety of celestial ornament. Snowwhite figures floated in azure; others, of dark tortoise-shell and
ruby, over grounds of green and cream, while rich chocolate
masses moved over a lighter cream and white. Beneath all
were dashes of jet amid beams of molten gold.
In half an hour the whole was rolled up and a leaden screen
let down. Now in the region of "the Variables," we have every kind of weather in twenty-four hours. Early this morning
we were making three knots; at ten, six; at eleven, a calm. At
seven, a sky to enchant an angel; before eight, one of unbroken
gloom. The clouds cleared away for a few minutes at noon,
affording an opportunity to ascertain our position, viz., forty
miles north of the line, having passed the rocks of St. Paul, for
which we had been looking out.
Gulls hovered about us to-day. While they and a nautilus
or two enlivened the scene without, a young house-fly amused
us at dinner. Flitting from dish to dish, it enjoyed itself.
Whence it came we knew not, unless it left New York in the
vessel in a torpid state, and is now resuscitated by the genial
heat, while chill winter reigns over its native place.
Cream-tinted clouds appeared for the last time to-day. The
red dust is also going; the rains have washed nearly all of it
away.




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                    45
20th. Showers, squalls, and calms. Air, at sunrise, 78~;
water, 780. Surprised at the equality, Mr. Little, the mate, a
young officer of superior talents and attainments, and I repeated
the experiment with fresh buckets hastily drawn up, but the result was confirmed. Can the rain have wrought a diminution
of 20 in the ocean's temperature since yesterday? This region
is properly named; it is one of smiles and tears, gloom and
brightness, of feeble gusts and prolonged stillness.  Vessels
are sometimes becalmed for weeks, and, with their occupants, become parboiled or half roasted.  More fortunate, a light broken
breeze kept us on the move until a genuine southeast trade
caught us at 1~ south, when the ship's head was turned southwest. South America resembles, as all know, a lean ham,
whose Patagonian shank and knuckle terminate at Cape Horn,
and the eastern side of its shoulder at Cape Roque, round which
we now are edging.
Although the sea is here a boiler of hot water, and the fire
that heats it glowing overhead, the air is not so much heated as
might be supposed. The dense mist acts as a screen that mitigates the fierceness of the solar shafts-blunts them where they
are keenest. And -what never fails to excite admiration in me —
when this screen becomes attenuated and about to be dispersed,
portions collect into clouds in front of the sun, rise with Aim,
and thus mellow his ardent rays by veiling his resplendence.
We have not yet got directly under him, as he is running the
southern line of the ecliptic, but we soon shall meet him, and
then every one of us will be in the predicament of " the man
who lost his shadow."
We took leave of the north star a few nights ago, and now
a new heaven opens on us.  The "Magellan clouds" were visible last night.  There are those who pride themselves on having stood on Cheops and in classic capitals. "God," say the
people of Cairo, "has such a love for their city that he casts
his eyes in complacency on it seven times a day." " See Naples and die, since nothing else is worth looking at," observe
others. I would say, "Cross an ocean," and then you may
conclude that nothing more ancient, unique, and sublime is to
be seen-nothing more suggestive of new ideas, pleasures, feelings, hopes, fears, &c. " Unstable as water" is a saying as old




46                   SKETCHES OF
as the Pharaohs; but, for all that, nothing has been more permanent: it is the only element that remains so. A grand agent
in changing the condition of other things, it remains itself unchanged. The ocean is now what it was when its waves laved
the shores of a lifeless world.
21st, 6 A.M. Air, 78~; water, 790; barometer, 300.  At
noon, air 830, the highest range yet attained. At 6 P.M., air,
79.750.  Water precisely the same as before the sun rose.
Clouds collected rapidly at the east to receive him; not one in
the west. The day, on the whole, a pleasant one, notwithstanding the sun was veiled, like the flame of a parlor lamp within a
frosted globe of glass.
22d. Air and ocean alike in temperature. I can not detect
the slightest change in the thermometer when plunged into the
sea. Noon, air 820, and the sky mottled with white and blue
-very like the haunches of fat gray horses. This has been a
heavenly day-one fitted for the blessed.  Sea-birds fluttered
round, and occasionally flying-fish diverted us. In making off,
some took to leeward, and others went directly against the
wind. Some kept along parallel with us, and were occasionally canted half over by the wind blowing against their sides.
Examples of progress by successive bounds, and of varying their
course when in the air, occurred. Each flock follows a leader,
and when he changes the direction of flight, the rest conform to
it.  Passed to-day the island of Fernando Norohna.  At 6
P.M., air and water 790~.
24th. Yesterday, at 6 A.M., air and water 790.  This morning they are 79.40 and 80.10; barometer, 30.10. The day
opened with the first of a new series of paintings; the blue expanse was thickly sprinkled with fancy masses of purest white,
which became tinged and edged with red, brown, chocolate, and
gold. The ocean was gently rippled, and over it played a moderate breeze. Another day's sailing in Elysium. At noon, air
820. A two-feet rule suspended by a thread cast a four-inch
shadow. 6 P.M., air, 800; water, 800~.
25th, 6 A.M. Air, 790; water, 800; barometer, 30.10.  6
P.M., air, 800; water, 80.50.  Air, at noon, 820.  Sailed today as steadily as if traveling on a rail-road, and under a sky
minutely mottled in blue and white, in imitation of the prettily



LIFE IN BRAZIL.                      47
rippled water. For two weeks we have had twenty-one sails
exposed to the motive currents, and seldom have they been disturbed except when tightening the ropes.
Brazilians have here a splendid theatre for steam navigation,
extending over thirty degrees of latitude, and bordering one of
the choicest departments of the earth-one comparatively free
from  storms, and- where the severities of northern seas and
climes are wholly unknown.
CHAPTER IV.
Diagram of the Ship's Motions.-The Ravels at Sea.-Sailing in Elysium.Worlds are Ships of the Almighty Merchant.-The Nebula his Ship-yards.The Ocean a Type of the Sea of Life.-Abrolhos and Squalls.-Cape Frio.Land-breeze.-Sea-breeze.-Sugar-loaf.-Enter the Bay.-Former Treatment
of Foreigners.-Table of Latitudes and Longitudes during the Voyage.
COULD the complexity and infinity of curves one's person is
compelled to go through be transferred to paper, they would convey to landsmen a better idea than could otherwise be imparted
of the pitchings, swings, and shakes seafarers undergo; of the
intricate and erratic lines their heads, without ceasing, trace in
air. The best apology for sea-sick travelers, it would excite
surprise that the brains of many are not addled.
Standing close to the mainmast and looking up, its topmost
extremity is seen to sweep from star to star, or cloud to cloud,
tracing in the firmament diagrams that truly mark the vessel's
movements. To imitate this would serve the purpose, and the
barometer, freely suspended on gimbals, with a heavy mass of
mercury at its bottom, suggested the ready means.  Its top
reached nearly to a level with the beams of the cabin-roof under the skylight.  This was removed in fine weather, and a pencil (point upward) fixed to the instrument, six or seven inches
from the point of suspension. An edge of a letter sheet pressed firmly upon one of the two beams between which the pencil
was, and the opposite edge borne gently down to bring and keep
the under surface and central parts of the paper in easy contact
with the moving style, was all that was necessary to obtain a
faithful chart of the vessel's motions, except her progressive one,
and, consequently, of our own.




48                   SKETCHES OF
The paper supplied the place of the firmament, and the pencil acted the part of the mast (though, in point of fact, the operation was reversed). The action of the point was of course
distinctly seen on the upper surface of the paper, as the diagram
progressed on the under side. The slightest lurch or pitch, and
every variation from the horizontal which the vessel's deck underwent were thus accurately delineated and recorded; their direction and comparative extent also.
B
DIAGRAM ILLUSTRATIVE OF THE SHIP'S MOTIONS.
The annexed figure is a specimen from scores taken during
the voyage. The letters denote the position of the vessel: B,
her bows: E, the stern; L, the larboard, and S, the starboard
side. If a line were drawn from L to S, and another from B to
E, they would intersect in the middle of the deck, where the
pencil was. Hence all deviations from that point, on either
hand, indicate rolling or lurching, while the rising and falling
of her bows are shown by the lines above and below L S.
Most of the movements, it will be seen, are combinations of
pitching and rolling.  There is but one decided roll-the long
sweep that passes beyond L and S. The paper first touched
the pencil at B and left it at E. The time it was in contact,
from twenty to thirty seconds. When the time was prolonged,
the lines became too much involved to be traced without difficulty.
Such are the motions of a ship in even moderate weather,




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                    49
while the changes in them are endless and infinite. Through
eternity no two diagrams could be found alike, and yet to the
motions represented by them every individual on board must
conform to preserve his centre of gravity over that of motionto keep his head above his feet. If it ever become worth while
to underwriters, vessels could be made to register every strain
they may be subjected to. A roll of paper unfolding, as in the
electric telegraph, has only to be adapted to a pencil properly
suspended.
Some phrenologists insist on organs of flexibility and perpendicularity. Such must be largely cultivated in seamen, for
two of our men rival feline tribes in suppleness of spine, climbing like cougars, and accommodating themselves to the rolling
base they tread on with enviable felicity. Insensibly turning,
twisting, leaning, they preserve their balance like what they
really are-systems of walking gimbals.  Whatever the art or
faculty be, it differs from that of tumblers on shore. These,
when at sea, often dance and tumble against their will, having
no fixed base to start from or return to, and no regularity in a
slhip's pitching to time their movements by.  Captain S~
took out the Ravel family to Pernambuco, and found the most
elastic and agile on the stage mere louts on board. They who
trod the tight rope confident as on a pavement, who, with bodies pendent, skated along ceilings, and even he who, with preternatural springs and climbings, rivaled monkeys, scrambled
over the deck on all fours.
During a part of the
voyage I slept in a cot
suspended from the cabin
ceiling, and, from curiosity, attached a pencil to it,
whose point acted on a
L\                --— t —-— ~ —;= = +  em_~l_'   S yielding sheet of pasteboard.  Of the diagrams
the annexed one is an example.
26th, 6 A.M. Air, 700;
water, 80.40; barometer,
30.1~.  At 11 A.M., air,
D




50                  SKETCHES OF
82.5~.  Noon, air, 820.  6 P.M., air, 800; water, 80.20.  The
shadow of a flour-barrel, at noon, was 4 inches; that of a threelegged stool fell within its feet. Did the Oriental greeting,
" May your shadow never be less," mean, "May you never leave
home," or does it allude to man in sickness as a prostrated gnomon, and in the grave to a buried one?  The moist air makes
sad work with our stores and clothing. It tests the quality of silver-ware; some new pieces showed a large dose of copper, parts
being green as verditer. A few dolphins and bonitos played at
the bows, and a sword-fish, twelve feet long, with a weapon one
third of that, came near, and, after a reconnoisance, departed.
27tMh, 6A.M. Air, 790; water, 800; barometer, 30~. 6 P.M.,
air, 79~; water, 80.10.  Passed Bahia yesterday.  There are
those whose minds illumine others, and whose virtues warm
into life the best affections of their kind, but who shrink from
notoriety and vulgar gaze, content to bless unseen, happy without acknowledgments. Of such was the sun an emblem to-day;
he vivified, adorned, and placed in relief all things but himself.
A night serenely beautiful as ever elicited admiration from or
kindled devotion in a patriarch's breast-mild as an evening in
heaven.  Myriads of orbs in undimmed radiance shine above
us, while cooling zephyrs delightfully waft us onward.  The
horizon, shifting imperceptibly as we near it, courts us forward,
and happily conceals the liquid immensity we float on. In the
larger planets, how much more extensive must be views at sea
-how much more capacious the celestial canopies! Treading
the deck on such a night as this, it is impossible not to forget the
petty grovelings and selfishnesses of life in the awful grandeur
of the scene, or not to feel a relationship between us and the inhabitants of the worlds in sight.  For my part, I can not but
believe that at this very moment navigators are crossing oceans
in yonder spheres, bearing, like us, the products of one clime
to another, and serving as a bond of brotherhood to peoples in
districts the most remote.  Sailors and trade in other worlds!
Yes; why not?  Physical beings must have physical employments, and wherever variety is the law of mind and matter, diversity of pursuit must follow. For every type of genius and
class of intellects congenial theatres of exertion are undoubtedly provided.




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                    5
The idea of navigation is singularly apposite to the heavens,
and is suggested by them.  What are all those floating orbs
but ships of the Almighty Merchant; ranged in fleets, loaded
with passengers and provisions; varying in their tonnage,
courses, distances, and speed; in their freights, accommodations,
and destinations? Why has God launched us in the same ocean,
given us powers of vision to perceive, and intellects to comprehend their magnitudes, densities, and movements, if not to accustom us to look out of our own small bark and identify it as
one of them?  Why else has he implanted within us desires
to know something about others who are sailing in them? As
thcy and we are children of the same Parent, how natural the
desire to become acquainted with them! Seamen are glad to
recognize vessels belonging to the same port or country with
themselves, and when too distant for verbal communication,
with what alacrity they run up their flags  Now it is but an
extension of the same social principle that leads us to inquire
after those who, embarked on other planets, belong to the same
owner and fleet with ourselves.  Is it not an innocent wish to
have a peep into their vessels, and know how they do? or to exchange signals with them, and, if possible, with those sailing in
more distant parts of the same ocean?
Then we might extend our thoughts to yonder nebula, the
ship-yards of God according to some astronomers, where vessels
are in the early stages of construction-some barely framed,
others just coming into form, others more advanced, but not prepared for passengers, because not yet provisioned. Oh! for the
removal of another film from the mind's cornea, that we might
draw nearer to the Divine Builder, and clearer contemplate his
doings! But hold! were the screen withdrawn, we should possibly become dissatisfied with and unfitted for our duties here.
Enough is shown to make us scorn ourselves for neglecting
kindred themes within our reach for the paltry and sordid pursuits that too generally absorb us. But better times are opening. Long-imprisoned IIope has gained the quarter-deck, and
our earth's ship-fever-mental squalor-will be driven from her
holds.
Leaning over the ship's rails, I could not but think how like
the ocean is the sea of life —a'very picture of it. The surface




52                   SKETCHES OF
of life's waters is never free from agitation. Its waves of hopes
and fears are ever raising and depressing man; smiling and
frowning skies alternately hang over him, while breezes, favorable and adverse, checker his course, and render it erratic as
that of a tacking ship. An illusive horizon encompasseth, and
rocks and lee-shores await him. Here all mortals are embarked,
and how diverse are their actions! Some float listlessly along
and drift among breakers, others sport in fine weather, and,
neither looking for nor prepared for squalls, are suddenly ingulfed, while others, again, brace their sails and steer direct
through fleets and wrecks of loiterers, in spite of calms, opposing winds, and currents.  Upon this sea, human spirits, numerous and restless as the waves, are always rising; and, like these
watery forms, they fume and fret a while, and vanish-jostle
and dash against each other, and sink unheeded. Each wave
is a type of a living man and of his brief career. Soon all that
now live will disappear and be forgotten; for, notwithstanding
Notoriety is busy as ever in elevating here and there her favorites, wherein do most of them differ from yon solitary swellings,
whose crests puffs of wind have raised, and but for a moment,
above the general level?  What a dark void is the past! WVe
know little more of the successive shoals of human beings that
have moved over the earth's surface than of the heavings of ancient oceans.
28th. In the vicinity of the Abrolhos-the region of fogs,
squalls, and showers. No seeing over a hundred yards ahead.
At 5 A.M., air, 790; water, 80~; barometer, 29.90~.  At 6,
rain fell, and by 7, the air reduced to 75~; and before noon, to
730. Washing in sea-water is now like taking a warm bath.
29th, 6 A.MI. Air, 770; water, 80~; barometer, 29.9~. Little or no variation during the day. We have passed the sun,
for shadows begin to show themselves in opposite directions than
heretofore-at our right instead of the left —in front instead of
behind us. We are running parallel with the shore, about one
hundred and fifty miles from it. A stiff breeze from northeast
enables us to plow onward magnificently, throwing up furrows
high on either hand. For an instant, near noon, the sun came
out again, and while waiting for another glimpse to determine
his position and our own, the horizon behind us thickened, a




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                    53
dark patch separated and began rapidly to ascend. In a twinkling all hands were furling sails; before they were through,
darkness overshadowed us, rain in large drops came down, and
the ship moaned as if sensible of what was coming; another
moment, and she writhed, leaped, lay down, recovered, and
shook herself, and then sprang forward at a bounding rate. Bereft of most of her wings, she flew over the roaring waters, while
spray kept sweeping the deck. In ten minutes all was quiet
except the billows. At 4 P.M. we had a similar flare-up that
lasted longer.
30th, sunrise. Air, 770; water, 780. A fall of 20 in the temperature of the water since last night: a sure sign of our approaching soundings. Luminous streams, as from ten thousand
ajutages, are gushing upward from the solar fountain, still below the horizon; like jets d'eau, they spread as they ascend,
and break at the zenith into golden spray. What mysteries
science has to unfold in yon celestial spring (now just emerging
into view), whence flow rivers of light and life upon an assemblage of planets!
In one short hour the sky was in sackcloth and the sea in a
fury; rain poured, and the vessel danced more violently than
ever. It was impossible to stand without clinging to spars and
rigging, and even then you tremble lest the hull, already half
capsized, become wholly so. I expected to see the masts snap
close to the deck, so fearfully did they swing. The rain increased, and had a marked effect on the waves. It smoothed
down their crests and outlines, and prevented collisions. Instead of dashing one another into spray, they now fumed inwardly, like the contents of a caldron near the boiling-point.
There was something in this, combined with the unnatural darkness, that made one both feel and fear.
By noon the weather cleared, and we began to look out for
land. Sounded with a fifty fathom line without finding bottom.
Throughout the voyage the ducks and geese invariably cackled and screamed in answer to the ship's bell. They mistook
its sounds for those of their native villages, and imagined the
ponds and fields they were brought up in close by: so the sailors say. Four sickly ducks, all that survive, were let out. As
rain fell, it was pleasing to see how they enjoyed it-washing




54                   SKETCHES OF
and nestling in it, and running after what fell as the lurching
vessel threw it from side to side. The oily matter secreted by
water-fowl for the dressing of their feathers must be expended
in them, or its sources dried up, for they were soaked with water like wet rags; yet, for all that, it was evidently a treat.
31st. By 7 A.M. the weather cleared a little, and Cape Frio,
hardly to be distinguished from a cloud, hove in sight-the first
land seen since starting.  At 8 A.}M., water 760; at 11 it was
750; at noon, 730; by 4 P.M., the Corcovado and Sugar-loaf
in sight. At 6, the wind left us some twelve or fifteen miles
from the harbor's mouth. Air 68~, and the water down to 64~;
a difference of 16~0 from its temperature a hundred and fifty
miles out!
From where we lie, the marine gateway presents a wide opening between two mountain walls that rapidly converge to a narrow opening at the distant apex, where the water meets the sky,
and where the left wall terminates in a slightly-leaning conical
mass —" the Loaf," which rears its head far above the wall, and,
with the Corcovado, a higher mass at the other extremity, reminds one of look-outs at the angles of fortifications.  The
boundary on the right appears continuous, the effect of distance,
for several detached islands stand out from it.  Raza Island, on
which is the harbor light-house, nearly faces the middle of the
passage, but now is far to the left. This opening into the port
of Rio is so clearly defined that there is no mistaking it, and so
easy of access at all seasons that pilots are unknown.  Every
skipper, foreign and native, runs his own craft in and out.
8 P.M. No chance of getting in to-night. Thunder and lightning-the first we have seen and heard since leaving home.
More rain, too, is falling, but the sight of port makes such things
trifles, and tempts one to snap the fingers at past sufferings, and
send them to the winds that caused them.
February 1. Made sail at 3 A.M., but had to anchor before
reaching the Loaf. A morning more beautiful than this never
ushered in a summer's day in Eden. The water is smooth as
glass, and yet most singularly etched, in squares as small and
uniform as those of a plaided garment: the effect of imperceptible waves crossing each other at right angles.
6 A.MI. Yonder comes the land-breeze down the bay: an up



LIFE IN BRAZIL.                    55
right wall of wind, hundreds of miles ill thickness, sliding deliberately toward us, and marking its progress over the silver surface by a line of minute ripples. It now has reached the bows,
and passes over us at the same moderate pace. It was twelve
seconds in going the length of the ship.
Something like a triangular piece of sheet iron was observed
protruding above the water and silently cutting through itthe fin of a shark, which hovered about us for several hours.
A more agreeable sight was hundreds of small gulls whirling in
the morning sun; and still more gratifying, some half dozen
palm-trees-specimens of tropical vegetation I was most desirous to see —in fine relief on three mountain islands, Pai, Mai,
3Ienina — Father, Mother, Child.
Noon. The thermal balance now preponderates in favor of
the land, and the aerial current of the morning is reversed. The
sea-breeze, for which we have been waiting, has set in, and bears
as gently on.  When near the Sugar-loaf —a bare, black mass
of granite nearly thirteen hundred feet high —we tacked and
crossed over to within hailing distance of the Fort of St. Cruz,
whence three interrogatories were blown at us through a speaking sarbacan. What vessel? Where from? How many days?
The captain sent such replies through his trumpet as brought
forth the prolonged blast of " Vara wale-e," the signal for us
to pass on.
Now within the bay, I supposed we should not stop till
abreast of the city, whose spires and windows were glittering
on the left shore, a few miles ahead; but harbor regulations required us to anchor near the small island and fort of Villegagnon, whence a covered barge brought alongside the port physician. Without stepping on board, he inquired if any were sick,
required all letters and newspapers, even those for the consignees; asked for my passport, and directed me to call in three
days at the police-office, where I would find it with an endorsement authorizing me to take board and lodgings in the city; ordered the captain to wait till visited by the Custom-house boat,
which might be expected about 4 o'clock, and took his leave.
The sun is scorching hot, and the idea of lying here inert for
three hours or more is any thing but agreeable.
The treatment of masters and passengers was formerly in



56                          SKETCHES OF
suiting in the extreme, and even officers of national vessels did
not escape.   Krusenstein  speaks  of strangers being  treated
with the same insulting jealousy as in Japan, while the accounts
of Captain Cook and Sir Joseph Banks excite disgust. It is
not so now, though boarding-officers are occasionally complained
of. That, however, is the case, more or less, in every port, and
will be till the Dayspring arise, when not a Custom-house exists to interfere with man of one clime visiting and exchanging
commodities with his brother of every other.
The voyage having ended, a table of the daily progress of the
ship is annexed, as it may be serviceable with reference to the
meteorological facts noticed.
VOYAGE OF THE BARQUE MAZEPPA FROM HAMPTON ROADS TO
RIO JANEIRO.
Date. Latitude. Longitude. Remarks. Date.  Latitude. Longitude.  Remarks.
1845.           e                1846.     /,
Dec. 21 36 38   72 44            Jan. 11 21 12    33 57
"  22 35 43   69 01             "  12 18-52    32 56  Red dust.
"  23 35 03   66 01             "  13 16 07    31 13    "   "
"  24 34 58   65 23             "  14 13 14    29 39    "   "
2'  5 34 50   63 20             "  15 10 27    29 00    "   "
"  26 34 50   61 25              "  16  7 44    28 31    "   "
"  27 34 40   58 26             "  17  4 57    27 43    "   "
"  28 35 08   55 33             "  18  2 31    27 23    "   i"
"  29 34 50   53 20             "  19 00 40    27 55    "   "
"  30 34 12   51 40             "  20 - 40S.  28 19  Turned the ship to
"  31 33 37   49 53             "  21  243    29 19                 [S.W.
1846.                            "  22  4 50    30 37
Jan. 1 31 51   47 47              "  23  7 23    31 48
"   2 31 32   45 50              "  24  9 40    32 40
"   3 30 58   44 00              "  25 11 50    33 36
"   4 32 01   43 02             "  26 14 15    34 36
"   5 32 28   42 02              "  27 16 20    35 30
6 31 31   40 09             "  28 18 22    36 30  By dead reckoning.
"   7 28 59   37 58              "  29 20 22    38 00
"   8 27 10   35 54              "  30 22 30    39 55
9 24 54   34 37             "  31 23 05    42 48  7 P.M., at anchor
"  10 23 33   34 37                                   off the Sugar-loaf




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                      57
CHAPTER V.
The Bay, City, and Suburbs from the Ship.-The Forts.-I land alone.-The Cattete.-A Brazilian Parlor.-Meeting of two Brothers.
ALL is not evil that seems so. While detained, the prospect
is favorable to obtain a correct idea of the locale of the Brazilian
capital; and I have a personal object to accomplish, which
makes a reconnoisance before landing desirable.  We have time
to take a general sketch.
The bay is triangular in its outline, and admitted to be one
of the safest and most beautiful harbors which the present disposition of the earth's waters has formed. It is a basin over a
hundred miles in circumference, scooped in granite and walled
in by mountains whose sides and crests are clothed in perpetual
verdure. But for the small opening through which we have
just come, it would be a lake hermetically sealed. Its godfathers mistook it for the mouth of a large river, hence the current misnomer.
It is a bay of islands, being studded with seventy, large and
little, of which some might well have been taken for " Islands
of the Blessed"-those happy abodes of departed virtuous spirits formerly located on the borders of the Western World.  Its
shores are deeply scalloped-a feature very conspicuous where
we lie.  The water runs in behind the Fort of Santa Cruz, and,
spreading there, nearly insulates it. A mountain island, shaped
like a hay-stack, with a small church on its summit, separates
this fine cove from another that stretches with some irregularity
up the bay to a projecting point, on which the village of San
Domingo stands. Immediately above it the shore again trends
inward, forming a handsome semicircular beach, the site of the
town of Praya Grande, or city of Nictherohy, immediately opposite Rio. Two little steamers have crossed and recrossed several times to-day.
Without peering farther in that direction, since remote objects become indistinct, let us turn to the other side, which has




,58                 SKETCHES OF
more attractions. On coming up with the Sugar-loaf, a long,
narrow strip of rock is seen stretching from its base. Upon the
extremity of this strip is the battery of San Joao, directly facing that of Santa Cruz; hence crews and vessels attempting to
come in without leave are maimed and slain, shattered and
sunk, under the patronage of the beloved apostle at the larboard,
while, under the emblem of salvation, they are blown to pieces
at the starboard.  The boys of Zebedee were named " sons of
thunder:" was it on that account one of them was chosen to
preside over this establishment for hurling material thunderbolts
at enemies' heads?
Soon as San Joao is cleared, the water is seen to sweep in
and beyond the Sugar-loaf.  With map in hand, this is at once
recognized as Boto-Fogo Bay, and the white houses skirting the
beach the village of Boto-Fogo.  The upper horn of the crescent is marked by a bluff, precipitous hill, whence the shore
slightly curves onward to another eminence, on which a handsome white church conspicuous stands. It and the hill are
dedicated to " Our Lady of Glory," and a glorious site for a
dwelling they have given her. Between the hills is the Cattete,
a suburb connecting Boto-Fogo with the city.
From the church the beach shoots forward a mile in a more
irregular curve, ending in a point that juts far into the bay. In
this stretch part of the city is seen-a swarm of houses, crowding and turning through a narrow passage between two hills
like troops rushing through a defile and treading on each other's
heels.  With the aid of a glass a double tier of arches-the
aqueduct-is seen.  On the point the arsenal is located, facing
San Domingo. Immediately above the point, and behind the
two hills, one of which is Castle Hill, with flag-staffs and marine
telegraph on it, the old part of the city of Rio and the shipping
lie. Beyond the city the bay widens into several leagues in
breadth. The immediate background of Rio, and up the bay
as far as the eye can reach, consists of mountains. Nothing
but sky and peaks are seen. An opening occurs in looking
over the small bay of Boto-Fogo, but there peaks behind peaks
rise in the distance.
Such are the outlines of the Bay of Rio between the city and
the sea. Every prominent landmark is so easily recognized,




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   59
that, with this rapid glance, I am prepared to thread my first
steps on Brazilian ground without a guide, and only wait the
opportunity.
Four o'clock has come and brought no relief; on the contrary,
it has induced something not very creditable to the captain and
me. Instead of enduring the detention with smooth faces, we
are making excessively wry ones-in place of reasoning with
Seneca, or gathering consolation from Kempis, we are invoking
blessings on the visiting officers' heads not altogether canonical.
But the sun is oppressive; he is already broiling pitch out of
the deck-seams, and to him should be attributed a portion of the
heat distilling in our bosoms. Another hour elapsed, and the
officer, a very polite gentleman, came. Requiring every loose
parcel and package, even to a hat-case, to be entered on the
manifest, he took the ship's papers, and gave us leave to go
ashore. In three minutes the captain and I were in the jollyboat, and, as I did not wish to go up to the city, he landed me,
at my request, at the foot of the Gloria Hill. Pushing the boat
in, I succeeded in springing on the beach without a ducking
from the surf, and, stepping up briskly into the street, passed
along in the direction of Boto-Fogo as if no stranger.
The houses are low, faced with colored stucco, and roofed
with the old red tile; not a paneled front-door, stoop, knocker,
or bell-pull, and many windows without glass. Coming to a
small garden-plot attached to a showy corner house, I stopped
a moment to look at white, red, blue, yellow, green, and gilded
screens and trellis-work, vying in colors with the flowers; while
the walks, bordered with shells, were crowded with something
like a hundred painted statues and statuettes.
Being Sunday evening, and very hot, I met few people, but
observed, through the open windows and in some gateways,
families playing at cards and chess. After winding along for
half a mile, with mountains often in the immediate rear of the
houses, I inquired of a young man for Rua do Cattete. I was
in it. Soon I came to a green, open spot on the right, in which
stood a fountain vase, and at it negroes filling vessels. Assured that the residence I wanted was not far off, I passed on.
A young gentleman and some ladies were at an open window,
and, at a venture, I asked if that was the residence of Mr. E-.




60                  - SKETCHES OF
" Si, senhor," was the reply. A table-bell tinkled, a smart negro opened the heavy door, I entered, and was invited to a seat
with the company I had just saluted —a very handsome lady,
three sprightly young ones, and their brother-a Brazilian mother and her offspring.
The head of the family, whom I had asked for, it was said,
would be in presently.  He was taking a siesta.  Before he
came, I had time to observe that the features and furniture of
the room were indicative of a tropical clime; high ceiling, matted floor, chairs and sofas with cane-seats, walls papered, but
nothing like carpets, rugs, curtains, fire-places, and other essentials of our parlors.
Presently, through an inner door, a tall gentleman made his
appearance. Dressed in white linen, and, withal, gray-headed,
he formed a perfect contrast with the deep black in which I was
draped. A miller and a sweep could not have set off each other more distinctly. Rising, I introduced myself as just come
in from New York, and the bearer of letters and other matters
from his brother, who had insisted that the first threshold I
crossed in Rio should be this one.
" Pray be seated.  And so T     and you are old acquaintances?"
"Yes, sir-bosom friends."
"Orestes and Pylades, eh?"
"Why, not exactly; still, I never was in distress but he
sympathized with me, and I may safely say the same for myself and family whenever he or his tasted of trouble."
"Is he stout?"
" Not so much so as you, sir, nor so tall. He is nearer my
size. I presume you would not know him, since I understand
you were separated in early youth."
"It is forty years since we parted; but, though we have not
seen each other in that time, I think I should know him at
sight. He talks of paying me a visit. Can I be of service to
you?"
" I am desirous of engaging apartments for a brief season.  It
is getting dark, too, and, without your aid, I shall be in trouble
to-night: though I have succeeded in finding your dwelling, I
have misgivings, in going from it, of losing myself."




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                  61
Here there was a movement among the ladies at the farther
end of the room, and one addressed two or three words to him
in Portuguese. Our eyes again met. I could act a part no
longer, and we sprang into each other's arms.
This was followed with such laughing and crying, clapping
and shaking of hands, such impassioned greetings, that-But
neither the scene nor the feelings are for the public eye.




natives it ives indispensables.ar
to enable them to keep the run of the saints' days. Not till today have I felt well enough to go out, though st.-Boome thing of the Surf
occurred which I she Matadoura.-Bld have liked to witneves 2d inst.-Aswas a high festival, in which the emperor   thusually performs ad.
part, but he is absent in Rio Grande, endeavoring to soothe po-:"-"'~..-?~<~ ~             book for strangers, while to
nat     ives it is indispensable,
was a high festival, in which the emperor usually performs a
part, but he is absent in Rio Grande, endeavoring to soothe political troubles there.  The 3d inst. was the anniversary of St.
Braz., Public honors are paid him  in a monastery where his




SKETCHES OF IIFE IN BRAZIL.               63
statue is.  Celebrated for removing tracheal complaints, he is
consulted literally as doctors are.
Livery-stables are here what their name imports. The proprietors' furnish plain and showy traveling equipages, with servants in various styles of livery. Having some letters to deliver, a " carro" was ordered, and in a few minutes I was off in a
large, well-built and easy chaise.  A mule in the shafts drew
it by a broad belt across his chest. The saddle mule was simply attached by a hook to the carriage axle.  The dress of the
postillion, a dark mulatto, eclipsed the plated mountings of the
carriage and harness: a polished jet hat, with golden band and
edging, yellow' vest, light-blue jacket faced with red, and a red
collar; white breeches, half lost in boots extending up his
thighs, and at his heels brass spurs with rowels two inches
over.  HIe wielded a monster cow-hide, and laid it across the
shaft animal's back with a ferocity that, had it been an edgetool, would have cut the beast in two.
We entered Engenho Velha, the name of a district exceedingly rural and picturesque.  The driver cracked his thong,
whirled through a gateway, dashed up a short avenue bordered
with shrubbery and flowers, and brought up at the front of a
handsome mansion.  Here, after an hour's ride, we were not
half the distance we had passed over from the place of starting,
the circuitous route being unavoidable to get round intervening
mountains. Ascending the piazza, I was the next moment in
conversation with the Honorable Henry A. Wise, United States
Minister in Brazil, to whose kindness and hospitality, on this
and subsequent occasions, my warmest acknowledgments are due.
Walking out in the evening with a friend, we met a baIeheaded priest in a carro, accompanied by three half-naked negroes. One, with a large candle, went by each wheel, and the
third trotted in advance, ringing a bell. This, I was told, was
"the Host," which the priest was going to administer to some
sick or dying person.  "But where is the wafer?" I asked.
"In that little crimson bag suspended from the padre's neck."
7t/h. I started out alone this morning on a miscellaneous ramble, and shortly became puzzled to account for a slow succession
of deep booming sounds that shook both the ground and air. As
no one in the streets stopped to notice what I took for subter



64                  SKETCHES OF
ranean thunder, I followed the sounds down to the Flamingo
Beach, and there the riddle was solved by the surf. Wind and
tide combining had caused the noise of its breaking on the shore
to be unusually loud and powerful.
Winding along the beach to Gloria Hill, I tripped down its
farther side (where I landed from the ship's boat), and, continuing toward the city, stumbled upon a revolting scene: a large
inclosure full of cattle, adjoining a barn-like structure, whose
long and broad roof was supported by stone columns, the spaces
filled up with picket gates and railings. Four half-naked men,
wielding long spiked poles, were forcing certain of the beasts
through a gate between two of the central columns. These fellows wore red pointed caps, their legs and arms were bare and
bloody, their hallooings and their cruelty were enough to make
one shudder. They thrust the goads at random into the poor
distracted victims; blood was oozing from wounds in the sides
and necks of several. One dropped exhausted, nor could blows,
nor digging the iron points into the most sensitive parts, make
it rise. Some twenty to thirty had now been forced through,
when the gate was closed-to them the gate of death; for, as I
suspected, this was the public slaughter-house. It is located on
the edge of the bay.
As I had no wish to revisit the place, I concluded to take a
first and last look at the Jiliatadoura.  Passing round to the
end of the building facing the street, I found the administrador
at his desk, with the whole interior open before him, and separated only by a low partition no higher than a counter. And
what a sight! The immense floor strewed with expiring oxen
in all imaginable positions. Those that had just been driven
in were leaping hither and thither over the bodies of the slain.
Two tall, athletic negroes, with nothing on but short pantaloons
of coarse canvas, stained with gore, held axes vertically, at arm's
length, over their heads, and kept moving slowly about. Six
other men, with poles armed with spikes, were heading the bewildered animals. Whenever one remained a moment steady,
or passed slowly by, an axe was buried in its neck behind the
horns, and in an instant it dropped. Thus they proceeded till
all hadL fallen, when a negro, with a piece of rag round his middle, bled them by plunging a knife in their throats.




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                      CA5
Not less than sixty were now lying prostrate. The gates
were again opened, and as I left, the moans of the dying and
the bellowings of the living were mingling with the click of the
axe as it sunk into their vertebre- the identical mode of HIomer:
"As when some vig'rous youth, with sharp'ned axe,
A pastured bullock strikes behind the horns,
And hews the muscle through."-11., xvii.
The naked figures of the butchers; their shouts as they faced
and frightened the trembling creatures into positions to receive
the blow and submit to death; these roaring from pains inflicted by the prongs, and their distress at beholding their comrades
sink and quiver, were truly horrible. One evaded the blow,
and sprang nearly over the platform, but, ere it recovered from
the effort, its head was half severed from the trunk. The axemen moved unconcernedly about, one with a cigar in his mouth,
the spikemen affording them sufficient protection. The instant
an ox turns on them, he is met by an array of points, which,
without mercy, are thrust into his breast and face. By twelve
o'clock the work is over for the day, and the flesh borne off to
the licensed meat-shops in every part of the city.
The cattle were long-horned, of medium size, various colors,
but mostly red, and looked somewhat lean. I subsequently ascertained from the administrador that the number slaughtered
last year was 45,000, including the supply for the foreign shipping. There is a municipal impost of 320 reis, or 16 cents, per
head. Pigs are slaughtered up the Bay. A few sheep are killed
and dressed in town.
8t?. I was pressed to attend mass at a chapel close by, where
the old vicar, an intimate friend and daily visitor of the family, officiated.  He went through the Latin services in a low,
monotonous tone. In some parts one could only infer that he
was reading by the movement of his lips. His manner was impressive, save the crossings, bowings, courtesyings, and kissings, which were puerile enough in my eyes, and any thing but
gracefully done, nor can they be, by a man in a gown, with his
back to spectators. The ceremonies were over before fatigue
or listlessness wished them at an end. Over the altar stands
Nossa Senhora da Gloria, to whom the place is dedicated. TwenE




66                  SKETCHES OF
ty inches high, dressed in silks and frills, with
necklace and ear-rings, the mopsey lady presides
with tranquil dignity at her shrine. The congregation consisted of less than twenty persons, half
of whom were blacks.  On returning, I was complimented for having " honored God and our
Lady."
Four or five feet in front of the chapel door, a
post is fixed in the pavement, and against it an
alms-box, bound with iron and secured by a padlock. On the raised back a cup is painted, and
under it heads rolling in flames. On the box is
written, "LEsmolas para as almas" - alms for
drawing souls out of Purgatory.
9th. This is the anniversary of Apollonia, one
~  m    of those saints who, after leaving the earth, continues through all time to bless it.  No pains are
more excruciating than those she removes. "Advogada contra a tosse" - she cures toothache.
Jaw-bones of wax are offered to her here.
An invitation came for J    to attend the obsequies of the
Condessa d'J    at 6 P.Ml.  The letter was bordered with
symbols of death, and in the centre a shrouded urn, under which
appeared the Lusitanian version of Horace's universal adage:
"Entra com passo igual pelas ufanas
Casas dos reis, e miseras choupanas."
On returning from a ramble I met the funeral procession: a
long string of chaises, followed by twenty horsemen carrying
lighted candles; an elegant coach-and-four came next, guided
by a charioteer in light livery, and in it the coffin, whose ends
projected through the doors. Carriages of every style followed,
some with outriders and lackeys behind; last of all, a coach-andfour, with attendants in white and scarlet costumes, the driver
and footmen sweating under enormous triangular hats with red
feathers. Except the coffin and candles, there was nothing to
indicate a funeral.
In conversations during this and subsequent evenings, particulars relating to funeral customs were mentioned, and may as
well be given here.




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                     67
Soon as a person dies, the doors and windows are closedthe only occasion, it is said, when the front entrance of a Brazilian dwelling is shut. The undertaker is sent for, and as the
cost of funerals is graduated to every degree of display, he is
told to prepare one of so many milreis. Every thing is then
left to him. The corpse is always laid out in the best room,
is rarely kept over thirty-six hours, and not often over twentyfour-the number required by law.  If the deceased was married, a festoon of black cloth and gold is hung over the streetdoor; for unmarried, lilac and black; for children, white, or blue
and gold.
Coffins for the married are invariably black, but never for
young persons; theirs are red, scarlet, or blue. Priests are inhumed or borne to the tomb in coffins on which a large cross iL
portrayed. Lay people can not have the use of these. In fact,
few persons, rich or poor, are actually buried in coffins; their
principal use being to convey the corpse to the cemetery; and
then, like the hearse, they are returned to the undertaker.
Fond of dress while living, Brazilians are buried in their best,
except when from religious motives other vestments are preferred. Punctilious to the last degree, they enforce etiquette of:
the dead. These must go into the next world in becoming attitudes and attire: married females draped in black, with black
veils, their arms folded, and their hands resting on their opposite elbows; the unmarried, in white robes, veils, and chaplets
of white flowers; their hands closed as in adoration, with palm
branches between them.  The hands of men and boys are crossed upon their breast, and, if not occupied with other symbols, a
small cup is placed in them, and removed at the tomb. Official
characters are shrouded in official vestments, priests in their
robes, soldiers in their uniforms, members of the brotherhoods
in their albs, sisters of the same societies in those appropriate
to them; e. g., those of the Carmo in black gowns, blue cloaks,
and a blue slip for the head. The lady entombed to-day was a
maid of honor to the empress.  Her sepulchral dress was the
"livery of the maids of honor."  "And, pray, what may that
be?" I inquired.  " A white silk gown embroidered with gold,
a train of green silk similarly decorated, a plume of ostrich
feathers, necklace, bracelets, ear-rings, etc.:" raiment adapted




68                  SKETCHES OF
to make impressions on worldly monarchs, but not to secure
special greetings from the King of Hades. (The countess was
young, in health, and playing an hour before she died.)
Children under ten or eleven are set out as friars, nuns, saints,
and angels. When the corpse of a boy is dressed as St.John,
a pen is placed in one hand and a book in the other. When
consigned to the tomb as St. Jos6, a staff crowned with flowers
takes the place of the pen, for Joseph had a rod that budded like
Aaron's. If a child is named after St. Francis or Anthony, he
generally has a monk's gown and cowl for his winding-sheet.
Of higher types, Michael the Archangel is a fashionable one.
The little body wears a tunic, short skirts gathered at the waist
by a belt, a golden helmet (made of gilt pasteboard), and tight
red boots.  His right hand rests on the hilt of a sword.  Girls
are made to represent madonnas and other popular characters.
When supplementary locks are required, the undertaker supplies them, as well as rouge for the cheeks, and pearl-powders
for the neck and arms.
Formerly it was customary to carry young corpses upright
in procession through the streets, when, but for the closed eyes,
a stranger could hardly believe the figure before him, with ruddy cheeks, hair blowing in the wind, in silk stockings and shoes,
and his raiment sparkling with jewels, grasping a palm-branch
in one hand, and resting the other quite naturally on some artificial support, could be a dead child. But how was the body
sustained in a perpendicular position?  "Generally in this
way," said Senhora P-, who had often assisted on such occasions: " a wooden cross was fixed on the platform, and against
it the body was secured by ribbons at the ankles, knees, and under the arms, and at the neck. " Twenty-five years ago this practice was common. It is now confined chiefly to the interior.
No near relative accompanies a corpse to the cemetery. It is
given at the door into the hands of friends, to whom its final
and respectftil disposal is confided. No refreshments of any
kind are furnished.
On the death of a father, mother, husband, wife, son, or daughter, the house is closed seven days, during which the survivors
indulge in private grief. They wear mourning twelve months.
For brothers and sisters, the house is closed four days; the pe



LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   69
riod of mourning four months.  On the last of the four or seven
days, mourners attend mass, and then resume the business of
life. For first cousins, uncles, and aunts, the established rule
is to wear mourning two months; for second cousins, one; for
other relatives, from fifteen to eight days. By an old law, survivors can be compelled thus to respect the dead according to
degrees of consanguinity. The poor contrive, by aid of friends,
and sometimes by selling what articles of furniture or clothing
they can spare, to comply with the general custom.
Large sums are occasionally consumed in dresses and jewels
for the dead. Generally, the embroidery, tassels, cords, spangles, tiaras, etc., are of French gold or gilt tinsel, but in some
cases pure metal and real gems are entombed. The cost of funerals ranges from $50 to $1000. Some go to the expense of
putting the parish church in mourning. If the deceased owned
a carriage, it is generally used to convey him to the tomb —to
give him his last ride. To save the expense of a hearse, people in moderate circumstances frequently borrow a friend's carriage. Not long ago, a hearse, all velvet, feathers, and gold, was
imported from France, and a few days after a rich man lost his
wife. He spent $1500 on the funeral, exclusive of mourning
dresses, and, to give eclat to the pageant, hired the new funeralcar for $200.
Widows never lay aside their weeds unless they marry. Till
recently, they were never known to dance, such an act being
deemed scandalous, no matter how long their husbands had
been dead. And now, old people shake their heads and repeat
an ancient apophthegm: "Widows should ever mourn their first
love, and never take a second." They complain of modern degeneracy and the disappearance of old Portuguese virtue. But
the young folks contend that they are as good as their grandams, and insist that if widows seldom remain such now, it was
much the same formerly, as the proverb more than intimates:
" Viuve rica cazada fica."  Clusters of a small purple flower
are here known as "Widows' Tears."  They bloom but once
a year, and soon dry up.
A lady living near us recently became a widow, and, at the
instigation of a fresh applicant for her hand, induced her only
child, a lad of eighteen, to enter a convent, under the pretense




70                   SKETCHES OF
that she had in his infancy dedicated him in that way to God,
and that he would be the means of delivering his father's soul
out of Purgatory. He consented, and she and her legal paramour now riot on his father's wealth and his own. But widowers are not much better.  Mention was made of a neighbor who
lost his wife, and cried himself almost to death in four days.
His friends, alarmed, got him to a ball, where he met a lady,
and married her in two months.
When the corpse of a husband is laid out, custom requires
his surviving partner to appear before consoling friends in a
black woolen gown, train, and cap, crape veil, a fan in one
hand, and a handkerchief in the other. Old Senhora P, who
ought to know, says the mouchoir often hides smiles as well as
tears; and, further that some widows have no cause to cry,
their losses being no losses at all.  Those who cry loudest, she
remarked, are often the soonest comforted, and mentioned a senhora who, on the fifth day, being told that her beauty as well
as her health was suffering, looked up and naively said, " If that
was the case, she would stop," and she did: a parallel to the
rich heir who, bending over his parent's coffin, exclaimed, " Father, I'll mourn for you hereafter; I can not now."
Visits of condolence are attended with fashionable formalities.
Unless you call in deep mourning you are thought disrespectful.
A full dress of black is a sine qua non for both lady and gentlemen visitors, and, unless very near neighbors, etiquette requires
a carriage and a footman. Enlightened Brazilians are awake to
the evils of these expensive follies, and, as in other lands, are
making efforts to reform them.
With the exception of holy water, priests are paid for every
thing-for christening and burying as well as marrying. When
a person is not interred in the district he lived in, the fee is exacted all the same.  The Gloria parish has a very insufficient
cemetery, at the Lapa Church, and many are entombed elsewhere. In these cases the vicar attends in a carriage, immediately behind the corpse, till it reaches its destination. He
then bows to his reverend brother, into whose charge he thus
delivers the body, according to ecclesiastical or civil rule, and
retires, receiving the legal fee of twenty milreis-the rich frequently giving more. Previous to the transfer, the doctor's cer



LIFE IN BRAZIL.                        71
tificate of the cause of death must be obtained and countersigned
by the vicar, for which the latter receives two milreis-he often
gets twenty.
Whatever they may be in life, lay people are profitable to
priests when they cease to live. Masses, many or few, are then
to be offered for them, and masses are always paid for. The
usual charge for one at which a family attends soon after a burial
is two dollars, the wealthy, of course, not being limited to that.
For subsequent ones a special agreement is made.  J-  observed that he and another gentleman were executors of an acquaintance who left five hundred milreis to be expended in masses for the repose of his spirit. They agreed with a priest, and,
as usual, at so much for each. Now every mass, to be effective, must be performed fasting and before noon; and in the case
referred to one only was to be celebrated in one day, and for
the exclusive benefit of the soul of the payer. In a very short
time the priest brought in his bill, ready receipted, and asked
for his money. Objections were raised on the ground that half
the period had not elapsed which was necessary honestly to
perform his part of the agreement. He insisted that all he had
bargained for had been properly done. They winced, but paid
him.
CHAPTER VII.
The Military Arsenal: its Manufactures.-Fine old bronze Ordnance.-School.
-Ceremony of the Hat.-Larangeiras.-Cattete Brook and Washerwomen.A Brazilian Chacara.-Old Portuguese Customs.-Butterflies.-Fountains.Indian Medicine-tree.-A Dessert after the manner of Eden.-Uniformity of
tropical Heats.-Iron Collars on Slaves.-Shoes and Neckcloths symbols of
Freedom.-The Vicar and Sneezing.-The public Garden an earthly Elysium.
101/A. Visited the Military Arsenal, and breakfasted with the
polite commandant, Colonel V. Lisboa. His family was from
home, and he performed the part of hostess. This is common.
In merchants' city establishments, not a female, black or white,
is employed. They and their clerks do all the honors of morning, noon, and evening meals, while in private dwellings it is
customary with gentlemen visitors to relieve ladies of the teapot. Here were large standing water-jars from Bahia, and the




72                  SKETCHES OF
popular " monkey"-a peculiar formed earthen vessel of aboriginal origin. [See figures of water-pots.]
The repast wound up, as all repasts do here, with passing
round the paliteiro —a fancy piece of silver holding tooth-picks
of orange-wood. Not a little ingenuity is displayed in the designs: e. g., a peccary or porcupine, from which the picks stand
out as quills; a disk of the sun, in which they represent his
rays; a pine-apple, held by an Apollo; a column of muskets,
on which they stand for bayonets, &c.
In the yard were the usual piles of balls and iron guns, all
of English make; also quite a number of old Portuguese bronze
pieces, one fluted and richly ornamented, another twisted spirally with loops of alligators: it had been two hundred and fifteen years in Brazil, and is a splendid specimen of ancient founding. These had been baptized, as usual in old times, with
scriptural appellations. How much more appropriate had one
been christened, " The bringer of bad news," after a Dutch
thirty-two pounder, or "The Devil," after a French one.
We entered the cooper's shop, where buckets, kegs, and canteens were in process of development. The foreman could not
comprehend or believe in our pail and barrel making machinery.
"Nao, senhor," he exclaimed, shaking his head; "nao, senhor,
uma impossibilitado."
Leaving the infidel, we came among the tinmen, a dozen
blacks and whites, making canisters for grape-shot, horn lanterns, and huge tin crowns and globes-imperial arms to put
over the entrances of public establishments. Bugles and trumpets, with and without keys, and equal in finish to any, are
made here. One room is dedicated to philosophical instruments.
A theodolite of superior workmanship was in progress; also a
large electrical machine, the plate from a window of the old
king's state-coach. The foreman was employed at a very handsome bench-vice, with a sliding jaw, of his own invention. A
model was presented to me. It is now in the collection of the
Franklin Institute, Philadelphia. There was not in the carpenters' shops a common hand-saw.  Not one is said to be used
in the country; nothing but the old classic buck-saw. In
Spain and Portugal, the tools and processes current in Greece
and Rome in the days of Numa are preserved unchanged. It




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                    73
is much the same here. At a forge were bellows such as Vulcan used: they will be found figured on a subsequent page.
In the turning-shop were some excellent French lathes.
Three or four fine bronze presses were at work stamping cap
and epaulette plates; one is one hundred and twenty years old,
and ornamented with the arms of Portugal-a beautiful thing.
In the leather department is made every article for cavalry and
infantry-saddles better and cheaper than can be imported.
The barrels and locks of muskets are of foreign manufacture, but
all are stocked and mounted here.  Founders and finishers were
fusing and filing belt-buckles and sabre-handles. The modelroom is crowded with devices for civil and military engineering.
In the school-room were two hundred lads, from six to thirteen years old, whites, blacks, mulattoes, and Indians, as thoroughly mingled on their seats as the ingredients of mottled granite. They are taught reading, writing, arithmetic, and drawing. When fourteen, each names a trade he prefers to follow
-one of those carried on in the arsenal; that is taught him,
and at a certain age he enters the artillery. In this manner a
supply of carpenters, smiths, saddlers, founders, machinists, &c.,
is secured for the public service. v
This military establishment is admirably organized, and under an effective administration.
At noon the workmen went to dinner, each taking off his cap
as he passed the outer gate-a piece of ceremony enforced on
every one, high or low, stranger or native, at every government
building. Hence, at the shabby entrance to the Custom-house,
merchants, captains, and every one else who wears a hat must
remove it in passing in and out, and fifty times a day, if they
go in as often. This Oriental mode of securing reverence for
rulers appears to be a Gesler kind of homage.  He put his chapeau on a pole, and required those who passed to bend the knee;
so here, wherever a tin copy of the Emperor's head-gear is stuck
up, every one must uncover in obeisance to it, the same as if entering a church.
12th. Walked out with E-   to the Larangeiras, Anglice
orange-groves, a suburban district adjoining the Cattete, and
bordering on a brook that comes rippling along, scarcely any
where over five feet wide, and the depth in most places only a




74                  SKETCHES OF
few inches. When told this was the Cattete River, I thought
a humbler appellation a fitter one, but I have since seen how
two or three hours' rain converts the quiet streamlet into a wide,
dashing, tumbling, and overwhelming torrent.
All the way up for nearly a mile one is reminded of a characteristic Spanish and Portuguese custom, of classical and scriptural antiquity too; for
" Where, gathering into depth from trickling rills,
The lucid fluid a spacious basin fills,"
there, in the pools, stand bevies of African nymphs, employed
precisely as were the daughter of Alcinous and her maids ere
their romps and laughter awoke the shipwrecked Ulysses. This
stream is resorted to daily by lavandeiras from adjacent districts.
Glance at the one we are approaching-it will not do to stop
and look. Her sole dress is a garment which ought to be an
inner and never an only one. In the middle of the brook, and
midleg deep in it, she is handling a linen coat by the collar; now
plunging it at her feet, and now raising it, she furiously rubs it
till the arms fly out and strike her as if the owner were within.
Another plunge, and she continues as if she had his ears in her
hands, and was resolved to have them off. Another dip, and
she twists him into a coarse rope, thrashes a smooth boulder
with him, reversing her hold, brings his head and spreading
arms down on the stone with loud flops, and anon lays him on
the grass to dry.
Here we reach a couple who have joined their labors. One does
the washing: she is using handfuls of saponaceous leaves in
place of soap. The other is wringing, flopping, and spreading out
frocks, shirts, and pants to bleach and dry.  Yonder comes
one who has finished her task, and is returning home with the
blanched vestments piled up in that huge wooden bowl on her
head-a load little less than Mrs. Ford's buck-basket when on
its way to Datchet iMead. A few rods farther, and behold a lavandeiro.  Probably the family that own him have no female
slave, or his master may be a bachelor.  See! there are half a
dozen negroes in that pool in petticoats alone, and those distressingly curtailed. Except one, who has thrown a towel over
her shoulders, the whole group is nude above the waist. When
IHomer's girls got through a family batch of linen, they washed




LIFE  IN  BRAZIL.                         75
their own; so these, having finished their owners' things, are
giving their own a rinsing. As we passed on, variations in the
scene occurred that spoiled the poetry of the picture.  Of natural or acquired delicacy these Rio washerwomen exhibit none.
Their manners, more than their garments, want purifying.*
Crossing the brook by a bridge, we entered the grounds of
Senhor J. L-       a, with whom  we had been invited to spend
the day.  The house is a low  stone structure, with the usual
tegulated roof and stuccoed walls. The upper story, agreeable
to a singular style of building yet prevalent, recedes from the
lower. The estate is extensive, and, from its location, picturesque.  A mountain quarry is on it, and a stream runs through
it.  We climbed the hills to the old farm-house, whence we had
a view of the bay and the mouth of the harbor. The property
has been in the family many generations, and here we learned
some of the patriarchal customs of the old Portuguese planters.
The mother of the present proprietor, a venerable lady of ninety, recently deceased, kept them up to her death. Carefully instructing the slaves, the first thing she taught them was to address the Virgin. Every night the bell on the portico, which
awoke them to work and called them from it, summoned them
to prayers, which, as surviving head of the family, she read.
As soon as they were concluded, her children, grandchildren, and
any other relatives present saluted her, and each slave, in passing out, asked and received her blessing for the night. She
sometimes roused all, blacks and whites, to matins at two in the
morning. One old negro troubled her exceedingly: " Work,
work, work all day," he would say, "and pray, pray, pray all
night-no negro stand that!"
As a party of us wandered over the grounds, besides many
* " Now the history tells us that the page was very discreet and sharp, and,-being very desirous to please his lord and lady, he departed with a very good will for
Sancho's village; and being arrived near it, he saw women washing in a brook, of
whom he demanded whether one Teresa Panza, wife of one Sancho Panza, squire
to a knight called Don Quixote de la Mancha, lived in that town. A young wench
who was washing started up and said,' That Teresa Panza is my mother, that Sancho my father, and that knight our master.'' Come, then, damsel,' quoth the page,'and bring me to your mother, for I have a letter and a present for her from that
same father of yours.'' That I will,' answered the girl; and, without putting any
thing on her head and feet, for she was disheveled and bare-legged, she ran skipping before him."




76                   SKETCHES OF
smaller, a few large blue butterflies tempted us to chase them.
I captured one six inches across the wings, and after keeping it
an hour concluded that, as I was no naturalist, the sins of naturalists should not be mine. Having no sufficient reason to deprive it of the pleasures of life, I let it go.
We strolled up the road to where it changes its name to Cosme Velho. Here a dozen houses had come sociably together,
as if tired of keeping, like their old neighbors, so far aloof. A
spring of cool water gushes from a neat design of masonry, built
against a spur of Mount Martha, one of the chief eminences at
the base of the Corcovado.  It is named "Bica da Rainha,"
or Queen's Spout. Its refreshing fluid is not more exhilarating
than the scenery. Half a mile farther we came to a medicinal
spring inclosed in a very neat structure. On a bronze plate let
into the pediment, is inscribed "Agoa Ferrea, 1835." This font
is the foreground of a landscape no painter could pass. Palms,
bananas, orange, and other trees, with shrubbery and flowers,
are every where; snow-white walls and red-tiled roofs glisten
on distant hills, a romantic brook comes dancing down the glen,
and a glorious mountain boundary incloses all; to say nothing
of living figures-birds, insects, and, not least worthy of notice,
lizards darting from rock to rock quicker than the eye can follow them.
On returning to the grounds of Senhor L   a, we stopped
at the decaying roots of a celebrated tree, recently cut down,
against his protestations, to make way for a road. At the discovery of the country this noble forest production was visited by
Indians for its medicinal bark, and ever afterward known as the
" Pao Grande," or Great Tree.  It was three metres in diameter, and of a proportionate height. The Indian name is Jequitiba.
After dinner we adjourned outside, and partook of a dessert
after the manner of Eden. Reclining under venerable tamarind
and cinnamon trees, we knocked fruit off them and off widespreading mangoes. We ranged among cloves and pimentos,
bananas and plantains, oranges and lemons. Here red coffeeberries were pendent from the stems of tall and slender bushes;
there stands the caja, a species of Indian palm, and near it the
eaju, yielding a yellow plum, the jaga, with its gourd-like nuts,
the patinga, on which grows a scarlet or purple cherry of a




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                    77
sweetish acid taste; the favorite mamao, with its egg-shaped
treasures hanging like cocoas from the boll. Here are garlictrees, so named from the odor their crushed leaves give out;
soap-trees, bearing saponaceous berries, and wax or candle
plants that secrete cereous substances: the leaves of the last
are fan-shaped, three to four feet over, and from their curved
edges radiate bayonet points a foot in length.
As the evening closed in, we took leave of our kind friends
and returned home, after a day of unalloyed enjoyment.
13tA. The weather is oppressive, and yet the thermometer
has ranged since I landed between 800 and 860; but then,
neither night nor day has it been below the former or above
the latter, except to-day. At 6 A.M., 840; noon, 870; 10 P.M.,
86~. How slight and sluggish these movements are, compared
with the range through which the mercurial column sweeps in
our latitudes! Summer heats in New York rise often over 900,
but at night we pass, as it were, into cool and refreshing baths.
Here, night brings little relief to one's parboiled lungs and viscera. It is not, therefore, so much the high temperature that
distresses one as its unbroken continuance.
This uniformity of tropical heats may be conducive to bodily
health and old age, but I suppose it is also to intellectual quietude. There is an obvious connection between meteorology and
mind; energetic spirits thrive best where heat and cold, calms
and storms alternate. I feel an increasing tendency to mental
as well as to physical supineness,
and can readily understand why
those who visit the tropics grow tired
of unvarying verdure, longing for
snow and ice, and the renovating influence of a northern spring.
A Portuguese in the neighborhood
has the reputation of being unusually cruel to his slaves.  One goes
past the window for water three or
four times a day, in an iron collar,
with an upright prong at one ear,
and a shorter one under the other.
There he is again! and behind him




78                  SKETCHES OF
a lad, not over twelve, belonging to the same owner, wearing a
similar instrument, with the prong behind.
15th/, Sunday. Rain last night has brought down the temperature to 80~. As the omnibus from Boto-Fogo stopped at
the door, I observed three blacks seated among white gentlemen.
This is common. A free negro in decent attire-implied by the
expression " wearing shoes and a neckeloth"-can take his seat
in places of public resort and conveyance as freely as persons
of the lightest complexion.  The Constitution recognizes no
distinction based on color.
At ten the vicar, having got through mass, which must be
performed fasting, came in to breakfast. Presenting his caxa,
I tried a pinch, and instantly repented, but he grasped my hand,
and, with glistening eyes, congratulated me on the happy omen:
he was as exhilarated as Penelope when Telemachus, without
snuff, had a fit of sneezing. Rising from the table with a palito stuck behind an ear, he asked for cards.  To oblige him,
two ladies sat down to bisca, nor would he release them till the
dinner-hour. I took up his square cap, made of pasteboard and
covered with serge; three segment-shaped ridges radiated from
the centre of the crown to three of the four corners.  Suspecting a mystic signification, he was told of my surmise. Using
the palito as he turned in his chair, he said the ridges represented the persons in the Trinity, and, with the tuft in the centre,
the Trinity in unity.
16th. Devoted the day to the City Park-o Passeio Publico
-an irregular piece of ground, extending some three hundred feet
along the Bay. It is inclosed by high walls, on which are vases
for flowers at regular distances.  Gravel-walks cut up the
ground into fancy plots, on which tropical shrubbery and trees
luxuriate. Here is the entrance, in Rua do Passeio, opening
on a wide path that runs straight through the middle to the
Bay. Let us step in. As we proceed, the view at either hand
becomes more and more confined by the foliage. Arriving near
the end of the walk, a triangular pyramid of granite, thirty or
more feet high, rises on each side from a basin of water. An
oval cartouch on one has the inscription, "A Saudade do Rio;"
on the other is, "Ao Amor do Publico."  The Passeio was
completed and presented to the city by a wealthy merchant on




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                    79
retiring from it to end his days in Portugal. In the first inscription he gave expression to his patriotic feelings in a sentiment not easily translated. We have no word, nor half dozen
words, equivalent to " Saudade." It not only implies remembrance and good-will, but a doting upon and a yearning after
an object. It includes every thing that affection can desire for
the absent, and hence is in common use in the correspondence
of relatives and lovers.
The prospect is still limited within the walls, and will be
until we ascend one of those two flights of marble steps facing
us, which converge to a platform above. The triangular space
between them  has been tastefully improved.  An artificial
mound, covered with cactus plants and verdure, is built against
the wall; a basin of water is confined in front by an antiquefashioned rim of highly-wrought granite. At the foot of the
mound, two bronze crocodiles, partly concealed by shrubbery,
turn their heads to each other, and, resting them on the beach,
throw jets of water from their nostrils. Above the mound rises
a fanciful terminus, on which are carved the crown and arms
of Portugal, and beneath them a bust of Diana in relief.
We ascend the stairs; the handsome balusters are iron, the
hand-rails bronze. Reaching the platform, a pretty fountaindevice arrests attention on the back of the wall, on whose front
we have below been contemplating Diana and her crescent.  A
Cupid grasps in his right hand an inverted tortoise by its tail,
and from the struggling creature's mouth the jet falls into a
small granite barrel.  In his left hand the little laughing god
holds a scroll, the motto on which can not be surpassed. As
if anticipating rebuke for torturing the testudo, he exclaims,
"6Sou ttil inda brincanda /"-though playing, I am useful.
" And so you are," I told him, as I plunged a tin tumbler, standing near, into the sparkling fluid.
And now, by simply turning round, we are on a terrace close
to the Bay, which, for its beauty and enchanting prospects, if
any where equaled, can not be excelled. Three hundred feet
long, forty-five wide, paved with white and colored marble; inclosed by low walls, in which are continuous seats, except where
interrupted by short columns bearing flower-vases, and both
columns, backs and fronts of seats-the whole interior surfaces




80                  SKETCHES OF
of the walls-lined with painted and enameled tiles. Near each
extremity of the promenade, a light octagonal structure offers
shelter from the sun's rays, and seats for all who choose to enter. Stairs here also communicate with the garden. A spirited Mercury, with his caduceus elevated, stands at the head of
one flight, and the god of music, with his lyre, at the other. Both
are in bronze, of the natural size, and, with the rest of the works
in metal, were brought from Portugal.
Here the eye takes in the islands of Cobras and Villegagnon,
the lower bay, entrance of the harbor, and the open sea beyond,
ships coming in, others going out; at the right, Boto-Fogo,
Cattete, and the Corcovado; on the left, the hills of Nictherohy,
down to the rocks and Fort of Santa Cruz. Small gulls whirl
round and light on the water near you, pigeons are running
along the beach as if they here acquire aquatic tastes, boys are
playing in the surf, and canoes, skiffs, and crafts of all descriptions are moving over the water. Yonder rises the black, gigantic Sugar-loaf before us. Ten minutes since it was wholly relieved by the light blue sky behind it, and so it is yet, except that small cloud, white as driven snow, and the only one
in the wide firmament, which is descending upon its peak. In
five minutes the dark apex emerges, the aerial visitor tuins gray,
losing its density as it spreads itself over the widening mass.
Now, half way down, it is but a thin gauze, and now it has vanished, yielded up its moisture. In this way mountains here are
almost daily seen to draw down clouds and milk them, as Mr.
Wise beautifully remarked.
In the Passeio is a large vegetable edifice. Vines and tendrils form its walls; dense foliage, dressed as thatch, its roof.
Within is a table, at which citizens can dine or lunch on refreshments brought with them, or indulge in fruits and doces
bought of negroes at the gate —a slab of granite, ten inches
thick, four feet wide, and thirty long, resting on carved pedestals, each weighing a ton. A seat of the same massive material
and character completes a piece of furniture calculated to endure
as long as the city shall exist. Upon it I am penciling these
remarks.
I did not leave this earthly elysium till sundown, and was
not a little surprised that so few visitors made their appearance




LIFE  IN  BRAZIL.                     81
in it. Two or three young men straggled in and out occasionally, but not a family or a female; open to every body, and
comparatively enjoyed by nobody. True, it is located at one
side, and not the most populous one, of the city; but the fact
is, not till within a few years have ladies begun to appear in
the streets. The old Moorish seclusion of the sex has but lately been invaded, and latticed jalousies pulled down.
CHAPTER VIII.
Sudden Floods and their singular Inconveniences.-Discovery of Brazil.-Indians
and early Navigators. - Rio founded by French Protestants.-Their religious
Disputes. —An Indian Chief knighted. - His Descendants. - Location of the
City.-Saints of the Hills.-Streets and Pavements.-Houses.-Jalousies.Roofs.-Chimneys.-Spouts.-Street Lamps. —Substitute for Bells and Doorknockers.-Signs.-Markets.-Fountains.-No Sewers or Sinks.-Rio a City
of Quarries.-Neighboring Mountains.-Names of Streets, etc.
181t. Rain fell all night, and still continues, sans intermission. The Larangeiras Washerwomen's Brook is now bearing all before it. It has risen over a stone bridge in the Cattete, and is sweeping roots and stems of trees down the avenue.
The low streets running off to Flamingo Beach resemble millraces. The occupants of the vicar's recent dwelling probably
spent the night as he spent one a few months ago. Torrents
from mountains in the rear suddenly flooded it, and at midnight,
unable to escape, his only resource was to spring from his couch
and mount a chest of drawers, where, like another patriarch, he
waited the abating of the waters; and where, seated and undressed, his negro and the neighbors found him in the morning.
Preferring safer quarters, he has hired an upper room on higher
ground, and is no longer in danger of being roused to meditate
in dishabille and darkness on the motions and forces of fluids.
As there is no going out, the opportunity is favorable for
posting up a few notes on the origin, outline, and some particulars of the city.
Brazil was discovered by chance. On the return of the pioneer to India by way of the " Cape of Tempests," the Portuguese government sent out Cabral with a fleet to take advantage of the discovery. Instead of creeping down the African
F




82                  SKETCHES OF
coast, where calms were known to prevail, he pushed out into
the open Atlantic, and continued in a southwest direction till
startled by land looming in the distant horizon. On the 1st of
Miay he went ashore on the coast of Espiritu Santo —the province north of and adjoining that of Rio. On the 3d he erected
a wooden cross, named the country Santa Cruz, and took possession of it in the name of his sovereign.  This occurred in
1499 or 1500.
The coast was farther explored by Gonzalo Coelho in 1501.
Nine years afterward a Portuguese vessel was wrecked near
Bahia, and Diego Alvez Correa the only individual saved. On
falling in with the natives, his presence of mind saved his life.
Ile showed them the effect of a musket by discharging it at a
distant object.  They named him C(aramuru, the man of fire.
In 1515, John Diaz de Solis, a Spaniard, discovered Cape St.
Augustine, a little south of Pernambuco, though Vespucius, from
his own account, was on that coast fourteen years before.  De
Solis, in 1512, entered the great river De la Plata, and, according to some authorities, he was, in the course of that or the following voyage, in the Bay of Rio. Brazilian writers assert that
the first Europeans who entered it were two Portuguese navigators in the service of Charles V.
It is certain that he who was second only to one in the galaxy of daring spirits that opened the true epoch of geography
and navigation —he who first passed through the eastern gate
of the Pacific, gave a new ocean to his compatriots, and taught
-them to girdle the planet-MAagalhanes —called in here on his
immortal voyage. He and his associate, Ruy Faleiro, entered
the harbor on the 13th of December, 1519.  They named it
St. Luzia, that being her anniversary: this was the first designation conferred on the place by Europeans.  Pigafetta describes native Indians flocking round the ships in canoes, bartering refreshments; for a king out of a pack of playing-cards
/hey freely give six fowls.
In 1530, John III. sent out Martin Affonza de Souza to take
-possession of the country.  He first touched at the north, ran
clown the coast, and passed in between the Sugar-loaf and opposite wall of rocks on New-Year's day, 1531, and christened
the gulf or bay "Rlio de Janeiro."  Had it been explored, it




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                    83
had not been taken for the mouth of a fresh-water river.  The
Indian name was " Nictherohy."  Bahia and Pernambuco were
founded in 1535. Governor de Souza resided at the former;
the first Brazilian land-proprietor, he possessed eighty leagues
along the coast. He introduced the sugar-cane, and from his
plantation it became dispersed.
The city of Rio is of French origin. The Portuguese had attempted no settlement in its neighborhood when Villegagnon, in
1555, began, under the auspices of Coligny, to found a Protestant colony there. On the return of his vessels, large numbers,
including ministers and students, embarked, like the Pilgrim
Fathers of the North, to escape from religious intolerance. But,
alas for poor human nature! while unmolested without, quarrels
began within-and such quarrels will ever begin and never end
while any one class of fallible mortals are permitted to dictate to
others what they shall believe or disbelieve.  Doubts and disputes arose about the real presence, diluting the wine, using salt
and oil in baptism, etc. These things, apparently sanctioned by
Villegagnon, were denounced as rank popery, and the dissentients celebrated the sacrament as rigid Calvinists did in France.
These squabbles, and the bitterness of spirit accompanying
them, ruined all. Like people flying from the cholera, with its:eeds lurking in their systems, they bore the spirit of persecution with them, and at length fell victims to it. In 1567 the
Portuguese took possession, and expelled them on the anniversary of St. Sebastian, and under his protection it has ever
since been placed. The name then given to it is still retained
in official documents —" The most loyal and most heroic city of
St. Sebastian."
Two neighboring tribes, the Tumoyos and Tupinambas, gave
the settlers much trouble, but the musket at length frightened
away those it had hitherto spared.  A friendly chief named
4"Ararigboia" essentially aided the colonists. He was converted,
and made a " Knight of the order of Christ." Lands at Praya
Grande were ceded to him, and some of his descendants now
occupy the village of St. Laurence, located on them. The government was recently about taking a part, but was prevented
by the Indians producing the original grant. Dwelling within
sight of the Brazilian capital, the modern descendants of Ara



84                  SKETCHES OF
rigboia are said to be strongly tainted with the original sin of
warm climates-aversion to labor. They plant barely enough
for necessaries, and spend the bulk of their time in sleeping,
lounging, and smoking.
Location of the City.-Its site is the first piece of level ground
met with on the left shore on coming in from sea-the first open
spot between the mountains.  Instead of being built "upon a
hill," as a modern work informs us, Rio may more properly be
said to be located in ravines. The face of the country is a succession of hills and mountains, and an irregular patch, hardly
exceeding half a mile wide, opening upon the bay, is the princicipal site. Streets wind in among the hills on either hand. The
pavement generally is but little above the bay. Water is every
where met with in digging a few feet; hence there is not such a
thing as a cellar.
All the chief eminences were early dedicated to the Church,
and still are occupied and chiefly owned by her functionaries.
If angels lived with men, they could not have finer sites for
dwellings than have the monks and nuns at Rio. On the north
side the Benedictine convent crowns San Bento's hill, and is
one of the most valuable properties of the city. Behind it, the
Bishop's palace rises on "M3Iount Conception."  Opposite San
Bento, to the south, ascends " St. Sebastian," now Castle Hill.
On one spur of this mountain the ancient Jesuits dwelt; on the
other, the first church was built, and is at present in possession
of Capuchins. Close by tower the hill of St. Anthony and his
monastery. A little to the south, upon a higher one, the nuns
of St. Teresa are cloistered; and southwest, where the land
shoots into the bay, soar the hill and the church of our Lady
of Glory. Then, on Mounts Livramento, Diego, N. S. da Saude,
and Madre de Deos, are chapels named after each. Mediators
between the inhabitants of heaven and earth, the reverend occupants are thus, like ancient seers, located between both. The
prosperity of the city is still believed to depend no little on the
prayers and mortifications of these saints of the hills.
Streets and Pavements.-The streets are generally straight,
yet Rua Dereita is crooked. As an apostle boarded in a thoroughfare thus designated, most Catholic towns have, in common with Damascus, "a street which is called straight," no mat



LIFE IN BRAZIL.                    85
ter how devious its direction. Laid out for the most part at
right angles, some are found running from every point of the
compass-a circumstance due to mountains insulated by them,
and to the angular and indented shores of the bay. They are
narrow: Custom-house Street is just eighteen feet wide from
wall to wall-the general width in all the old parts of the city.
If a few are found to exceed it, others are mere alleys. The ancient mode of grading is general; that is, the pavement inclines
from the houses at each side to the middle of the road. But
workmen are engaged modernizing this feature. No curb-stones
are used; they could not be, as carriages, in passing one another, sweep close to the fronts of the houses: for the same reason, no steps or other projections are permitted.
Rozaria is a genuine old Moorish street, twelve feet between
the fronts of opposite houses. The carriage-way is just six feet.
The gutter, as usual, is in the middle, and full two feet below
the side-flagging, so that on either side the surface has a fall of
two feet in three. How distressing for mules to drag carriages
through such avenues! But if so, what shall be said of the
sacrifices of human sweat and sinews incessantly offered on
them as on so many altars-of slaves yoked to massive trucks,
whose wheels, creaking under more weighty loads, cause adjacent walls and floors to quiver-of slaves gasping in their slow
and tortuous progress, and straining their life-strings to rending? The whole business part of Rio is singularly well adapted for railways, and if the people determine to continue blacks
as beasts of draught, it would be to their interest to have them.
A rail might be laid along every street at a very moderate expense; even wooden rails alone would quickly pay for themselves in the prolonged vigor of slaves now daily broken down
and ruptured. The subject is worthy of the reputed humanity
of the emperor.
HEouses.-These are mostly two stories, some three, and many
one, all grotesquely mixed as in most old cities; not a block is
uniformly built. There is not what our builders would call a
handsome front, nor any thing approaching to one; nor can
there be, since all entrances are on the pavement level, and no
steps nor porticoes allowed. There is not a brick nor a wooden
house in Rio. The walls, universally, are of rough stone (like




86                  SKETCHES OF
our foundation walls), coated with a stucco of lime and loam,
which makes them appear as if whitewashed. Posts and lintels of coarse mottled granite border every door and window.
Some owners show their taste by coloring the stucco in panels
or otherwise; light blue and pink are favorite tints.  Gilt
scrolls and rosettes, running below the cornice, are to be met
with. Though the houses are not showy, they are far more
substantial than ours. Fonseca, the great slave-trader, one of
whose vessels got in a few days ago with a full cargo, by
which he is said to have cleared nearly two hundred thousand
dollars, has a splendid dwelling nearly finished in Rua Quitanda. The front is paneled, and colored light blue, pink, and
white. The spouts which shoot the water from the roof are
gilt and burnished. The house is next door to his dry-good
store, in which he commenced life.
Balconies at the upper windows are common. Formerly
they extended across the front of each house, and were inclosed
with lattice-work.  Within these "gelosias" the females of a
family were confined, as if in Turkey, or in ancient Greece,
where females were not permitted to go out except under particular circumstances, nor to show themselves at windows. A
few balconies remain, with their fronts removed. Every lower
door and window was latticed, and a majority are so still. No
stores have glass windows, the light being admitted between
granite posts, which form open doorways. Probably not more
than a dozen fancy stores can be found with glass windows.
There are a few in Ouvidor (the Broadway of Rio), but in some
of them the glass frames are removed at night, like the goods
behind them. Of course, such a thing as a store bow-window:is unknown; the wheels of carriages would whirl through it.
The tiled roofs are more or less concave, the result of large
cornices projecting out of the line of the general pitch. This
feature gives an Oriental cast to the buildings, and the more so
when birds or other figures terminate the overhanging angles.
The ribbed appearance of the tiles, their waving edges at the
eaves, and the contrast of their color with that of the walls, have
a pleasing effect on strangers to this style of architecture.
Chimneys.-Take a view of New York from the top of a
church, and chimneys appear as thick as forest trees. Do the




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                    87
same in Rio, and you see none, or very few. Perhaps, by close
inspection, a small one may be detected low down in some open
area, and here and there a stove-pipe with a cowl.
Another trait likens the buildings still more to those of Greece
and Rome. Rain collected on the roofs, instead of being brought
down, as with us, to the pavement, shoots out of spouts at the
eaves. This is the universal practice. The spouts are copper
tubes, three or four feet long, in fanciful forms-a fish is very
frequent-the fluid escaping from its open mouth. The gaping
head of a tiger or of a bird also occurs. These pour the water
on the middle of the street. Smaller pipes project from the bottom of balconies (which are almost as numerous as windows),
and discharge it on the side-walks. How actively a foot-passenger in wet weather is kept dodging to and fro to avoid these
torrents, at either hand of a narrow street, can readily be conceived.
Street larmps are suspended over the pavement from iron
brackets secured to the sides of the houses. They are trimmed
by lowering them; hence lamp-lighters here are armed with a
rope instead of a ladder.
Street doors have no bells nor knockers. A gentleman raps
at a door with his cane, or draws the end smartly across the:lats that commonly fill the upper panel. When a family resides on the upper floors, a visitor, on entering the passage below, communicates notice of his presence by clapping Ahis hands,
which soon brings some one to the stair-landing above.
Street signs are not numerous, nor is any thing like taste displayed on the best of them. Often they announce combinations
unusual with us: Dry Goods and Lottery-tickets; Printing and
Cigars; Crockery and Tea.  Over one door was printed,
Entrada franca,
Gosto pago,
Saida livre.
The sense in English requires more words. It amounts to, Enter and welcome, select what you please, pay and depart free.
The 2Fish-market is a very convenient structure.  At each
of its four sides is a wide gateway, and in the centre a fountain
plays. One side only is taken up with fish-stalls, the rest being occupied by dealers in other edibles and kitchen conven



88                   SKETCHES OF
iences. Here are piles of fruit; fowls, turkeys, and roastingpigs in cages; monkeys and wild birds; little shops of native
earthen and wooden wares. Of the fish I have recognized none
except mammoth shrimps and young sharks, both always found
on the stalls. The side next the Bay, not over a hundred feet
from it, presents an exciting scene. While crowds of boatmen
and handsomely-formed canoes are waiting to be hired, there is
coming in, every now and then, a falua with fish, when stout
negroes, all but naked, with baskets on their heads, plunge
through the surf (here black and thick with mud) to meet her,
rivaling and rushing past each other to get a portion of her cargo first on shore; their shouts, screams, and quarreling equaling any thing on the Niger.
There are no IFells in Rio, though shallow pits, reaching to
the surface-water, which is used for scrubbing, etc., are common. Except in very severe droughts, the city is well supplied
with water. Here, close by the market, is the Chafariz* of
Palace Square.  It is a rather small, but an elaborately-wrought
structure of cut stone, four square, surmounted by a pyramid,
and capped with the Brazilian crown.  The water is discharged
at the pinnacle of a little stone mount, down which it streams
into a shell-formed basin, whence it issues through five spouts
at each of three of its sides; hence fifteen vessels can be filling
at the same time. This spreading out the fluid and exposing
it to the rays of a vertical sun necessarily heats it to a disagreeable degree, but old people say it is not good to drink water that is not agitated.  "Beaten water" is better when warm
than cold water not " beaten." On the side facing the bay is a
tablet, stating that the fountain was erected for the benefit of
the "People of Sebastianopolis" in 1789. But the subject of
fountains is too copious a one to be treated of in this volume.
Here are no sewers nor sinks-no privies-no, not even where
spacious yards and gardens are annexed to dwellings. The use
of close-stools is universal even in the rural suburbs! Borne
on the heads of slaves, they are emptied into certain parts of the
Bay every night, so that walking in the streets after 10 P.M. is
often neither safe nor pleasant. In this matter, Rio is what
Lisbon is, and what Edinburgh used to be.
* A Moorish word signifying fountain-in universal use in Brazil.




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                    89
Rio is a city of quarries., It is built of, paved, and inclosed
with granite. Its hills, shores, and mountains are all granitic;
no other rock is to be seen. It could supply the world with
this material, and yet thousands upon thousands of cargoes of
stone have been imported. All the old side-walk slabs, the
channel for the Carioco Aqueduct, materials for churches, and
scores of houses, were brought from Europe. Formerly, a very
coarse and dull mottled granite seems only to have been worked.
The city is built of it. It is incapable of a smooth surface. I
have picked laminae of mica three fourths of an inch over, and
half-inch crystals of feldspar from it. A much better kind is
now in vogue. It has a fine and uniform grain, and is nearly
white.
It is curious to observe the extremes of condition in which
adjacent granitic masses are. If all belong to one epoch and
rose together, by what means are some preserved indurate and
compact, while adjoining ones are crumbling, and others softened
to the centre, and changed into a red tenacious loam-the color
of the soil not only about Rio, but to the Andes and the Equator? The tint is bright and deep as that of our salmon brick.
Castle Hill is, among others, thus decomposed.
A map of the country round Rio would, if the mountain
bases were all laid down, be marked like a leopard's skin-the
spots equally numerous, and diverse in dimension and outline.
Such, it is said, is the surface of a large part of Brazil, as if the
whole continent had once been fluid, and in an instant stiffened
during ebullition.
Of the high mountain crests, that of the Corcovado is nearest
the city. In a straight line, it is four miles from the Customhouse.  The Tejuco and Gavia are each two hundred feet higher; the former is nine miles from the city, and the latter somewhat more, but to reach any one of them considerable more
ground must be passed over.
From the religious education of the discoverers and early occupiers of the great southern peninsula, its provinces, mountains, rivers, lakes, cities, towns, parishes, avenues, squares, alleys, and, in fact, almost every thing and every person, were
christened out of the calendar.  Most of the streets of Rio are
thus consecrated, as well as its eight parishes and forty-eight




90                    SKETCHES OF
(large and small) churches. The meaning of other names attached to a few districts is not very well settled. Flamingo
Beach is supposed to have been frequented at the discovery by
birds of that name.  Cattete is understood to be the Indian
word for the peccary or paca.  Engenho Velho from the location of the first sugar-mill.  Boto-Fogo from vampyre bats.
The common bat is seen here every fair night, but neither cattle nor men are tormented with the monsters so numerous in
the northern provinces.
Of Public grounds, the Passeio has been described.  The
"Campo," the most spacious area, will be noticed in another
chapter.
CHAPTER IX.
Sedans.-Removing Furniture to new Dwellings.-Street " Cries."-Peddlers.Large Lizard.-Penny Portraits of Saints.-The Intrudo and its Sports.-Of
Hindoo Origin. - Death and Burial of the Secretary of the Institute. - The
Church, Coffin, Corpse, Cemetery, and Orations.
HAD custom  not prevented ladies from  promenading the
streets, they could not indulge the exercise with any degree of
comfort.  The thoroughfares of few cities are less adapted for
it than those of Rio.  Their contracted width, the danger from
wheels of trucks and carriages, imperfect side-walks, and sometimes none, to say nothing of the indecencies of blacks, and
the offensive condition of places bordering on thoroughfaresthe Gloria Beach, for example, and, worse still, that facing the
palace and palace square-are enough to keep the sex in-doors.
In suburban avenues ladies can air themselves, but not in the
city. They have less inducements than with us to appear
abroad.  To the attractions of shopping they are strangers.  If
an article is wanted which the street-peddlers have not, a note
is sent by a slave to a store, and samples are returned by him
to choose from.
When a lady has occasion to visit the business part of the
city, a carriage or a cadeirinhca is called. The latter is a sedan.
All are built on the same plan, and differ only in ornament.
(cacdeira is the Portuguese word for chair, and cadeirinha is




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                      91
BRAZILIAN SEDAN
literally "little chair."  They are derived from the sella gestatoria of Rome, probably fac-similes, and are infinitely more
elegant and commodious than the old English box or Opera
hand-barrow chair.
I entered one to examine its construction. The annexed cut
shows the skeleton.  On
an elliptical board thirty
inches by twenty, a highbacked chair is fixed, the
rails of which extend up to
a hoop of the form and dimensions of the base. The
curved pole is connected to
the base by small iron rods
as represented.
The two bearers of a cadeirinz/a never go in a line; the one
at the rear is always more or less to the right or left of his leader. This is easier for themselves and the person they carry.
They do not stop to rest, but shift the load occasionally from
one shoulder to the other as they proceed —not by actually
changing their position with regard to it, but transferring the
pressure, by a stout walking-stick thrown over the unoccupied
shoulder, and passed under the pole. I met one with a dome
of polished leather and a gilt dove on it, the curtains highly embroidered; the ends of the poles were gilt lions' heads, It was




92                  SKETCHES OF
a private one.  The slaves that bore it were in a flaming livery.
The lady's colored maids walked behind, as in the preceding
sketch.
Sometimes a cadeirinha is sent out without its owner.  I
saw one of a blue color, all but covered with gold embroidery;
a broad engrailed band of Cordovan went round the top; two
elegant horns or finials arose in front and rear, and on the convex roof a silver or silver-gilt eagle stood. The curtains were
drawn aside, exposing the chair within, and upon it an enormous bouquet, a present from the owner of the sedan, its value
augmented by this complimentary mode of transmitting it.
Another time I met one with a light green dome crowned
with a silver dove. The curtains were crimson, the mourning
color for children: the corpse of a child was being taken in it
to the cemetery.
20th. Almost pushed into the Bay, the street along the Gloria
Beach is the only passage from the city to Boto-Fogo. On entering it, I turned aside to an alms-box fastened to the corner
of a mean venda, close to where I first sprang on shore. It was
apparently for the relief of infant souls. Fat Dutch cherubs
had been painted on it, but time had well-nigh extinguished the
flames and bleached them into snow-drifts. While looking on,
a yell and hurlement burst forth that made me start as if the
shrieks were actually from Tartarus.  From dark spirits they
really came. A troop of over twenty negroes, each bearing on
his head one or more articles of household furniture-chairs,
tables, bedsteads, bedding, pots, pans, candlesticks, water-jars,
and crockery-every thing, in fact, belonging to a family moving to a new domicile. Chanting only at intervals, they passed
the lower part of the Cattete in silence, and then struck up the
Angola warble that surprised me.  There they go, jog-trotting
on! The foremost, with pants ending at the knees, a red woolen strip round his waist, upon his head a mop, whose colored
thrums play half way down his naked back, and in his hand a
gourd-rattle, fringed with carpet-rags, beats time and leads the
way.
The " cries" of London are bagatelles to those of the Brazilian capital.  Slaves of both sexes cry wares through every
street. Yegetables, flowers, fruits, edible roots, fowls, eggs, and




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                    93
every rural product; cakes, pies, rusks, doces, confectionery,
" heavenly bacon," etc., pass your windows continually. Your
cook wants a skillet, and, hark! the signal of a pedestrian copper-smith is heard; his bell is a stew-pan, and the clapper a
hammer. A water-pot is shattered; in half an hour a moringuemerchant approaches. You wish to replenish your table-furniture with fresh sets of knives, new-fashioned tumblers, decanters, and plates, and, peradventure, a cruet, with a few articles
of silver.  Well, you need not want them long.  If ca~'o-T
cutlery, of glass ware, china, and silver have not alreaky passed
the door, they will appear anon. So of every article of female
apparel, from a silk dress or shawl to a handkerchief and a paper of pins.  Shoes, bonnets ready trimmed, fancy jewelry,
toy-books for children, novels for young folks, and worlf devotion for the devout; "Art of Dancing" for the awkwar,
"School of Good Dress" for the young; "1 Manual of Politeness" for boors; "Young Ladies' Oracle;" "Language of
Flowers; " Holy Reliquaries;" " Miracles of Saints," and " A
Sermon in Honor of Bacchus"-these things, and a thousand
others, are hawked about daily.
Vegetables are borne in open, fowls in covered baskets; pies,
confectionery, and kindred matters are carried on the head in
large tin chests, on which the
owner's name and address are
- IiIint III     s
painted; dry-goods, jewelry, and fancy wares are exposed upon
portable counters or tables, with glass cases fixed on them.
These are very numerous.




94                   SKETCHES OF
Proprietors accompany silver-ware, silks, and also bread, for
blacks are not allowed to touch the latter. When a customer
calls, the slave brings his load, puts it down, and stands by
till the owner delivers the articles wanted. The signal of drygoods venders is made by the yard-stick, which is jointed like
a two-foot rule. Hold5.i  ing it near the joint,
they keep up a continuone leg against the oth-,Br3 j6  j       er.  The Brazilian yard
lis the vra, equal to 43A
inches English.   The
covado, an old Portulon  leg beginsg the ovaguese measures used by shopkeepers ia n Brazl. Fine
oods, such as silks, lawinche, are sold byhence the
covado, an  others by the varats is
diidYoung Minas and Mozambiques are the most numerousally, thand
do.are reputed to be the smartest of nThrcades. Many athe onely
as an infant added to her load: shmeasures it at her back by ashopkeepers in Brazil. Fine
waist.  Between the cloth and her
body it nestles and sleeps; and when
awake, inquisitively peeps abroad,
like an unfledged swallow peering
over the edge of its nest.  To protect her babe rom the sun, she suspends a yard of calico at the rear end
of the case on her head: this serves
as a screen, and, from its motions, acts
somewhat as a fan.  Dealers often




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                    95
solace themselves with lighter companions- paper cigars -
which, when called on to display their wares, are disposed of in
a curious place.  One of these gentlemen, with a strangely miscellaneous stock, was called into the passage to-day. He had
combs, soaps, needles, perfumes, inks, quills, thread, blacking,
books, paper, pencils, matches, English china tea-sets, cards of
fine cutlery, and I know not what; else, so crammed was his
glass counter. Before coming in, he stuck his cigar behind one
car, and on his stooping down, I perceived a tooth-pick projecting from the other.
The way customers call street-venders is worth noticing and
imitating. You step to the door, or open a window, and give
utterance to a short sound resembling shir —something between
a hiss and the exclamation used to chase away fowls; and it is
singular to what a distance it is heard. If the person is in sight,
his attention is at once arrested: he turns and comes direct to
you, now guided by a signal addressed to his eyes-closing the
fingers of the right hand two or three times, with the palm downward, as if grasping something-a sign in universal ise, and
signifying " Come." There is here no bawling after people in
the streets; for in this quiet and ingenious way all classes communicate with passing friends or others with whom they wish
to speak. The custom dates, I believe, from classical times.
Here comes the tallest and blackest man-milliner I have yet
seen; his dress, the usual brown shirt and trowsers, ending at
the knees and elbows.  IIis case contains Leghorn and fancy
silk bonnets-nothing else. These he cries, and at every few
steps turns to this side and that in quest of fair customers.
Yesterday a young negro came along with a couple of Seguise.(
or miniature monkeys.  IIe stopped and held up the wicker
cage, not over six inches square.  "Tres milreis?' I said.
"Naro, senhor, seis milreis," putting forth his spread dexter
hand, from which, sure enough, six fingers grew.  This was the
only itinerant Maca'co merchant I met in the streets; there are
several in the market.
On nearing home, I met a negro coming in from the country with a walking-stick much taller than himself, and to it
lashed a lagarto-a species of lizard considered a table delicacy,
and much preferable to any flying game.  I bought it, intending




96                  SKETCHES OF
to bring it to the States, but it was lost in the voyage home.
It was two feet and a half long, and six inches across the thickest part. A slap of its tail across the breast of the slave who
helped to secure it in a box took away his breath.
A crier of confectionery was called in a few mornings ago.
Among doces and fancy wares was a lot of saints-coarse woodcuts in penny frames, three inches by five. Taking up Dominic, I asked the price. The sable merchant shook his head. "It
had been blessed; it could not be sold; only exchanged; it
cost two patacas. " It is in this way the value is put on holy
things. You are told they cost so much, and will be exchanged
for an equal sum. I could not purchase the founder of the Dominicans for 32 cents, but at that rate I could have him and a
dozen more saints, if I would view the transaction as a reciprocal convenience between the vender and myself, and without the
taint of worldly merchandising in it. Then, as no profit must
be made by the pious traffic, venders necessarily accompany the
offer of every article with a flam-telling you, with a seriousness and devotion which for the moment the article calls up,
they paid the amount you are expected to give for it.
THE INTRUDO.
21st. For a week past I have noticed colored balls exposed
here and there on plates for sale. The green ones might be
taken for small apples, the yellow for oranges and lemons.
Some are formed like pears, others like melons. An acquaintance made with some this morning has banished the indifference
with which I have passed by them. Another article has also
been pressed upon my attention. It is native starch, not granulated like ours, but an exceedingly white and fine powder, put
up in paper cylinders six inches long, and half an inch in diameter.  When used, one end is opened, and the contents shaken
out.
While sitting at breakfast, S     - passed behind J.'s
chair, and, to my amazement, emptied a couple on his head and
shoulders. The operation was performed so quietly, and the
dust fell so lightly, that he knew not what was going on till a
handful was applied to his face and ears. He sputtered, sprang
up, and, half-blinded, was saluted with liquid shots from a long



LIFE IN BRAZIL.                    97
necked cologne-bottle. Half in anger, and amid much laughter, lie made a quick retreat, dressed, and went to the city.
While wondering what this could mean, a particle or two
dropped from my forehead. Raising a hand, I found my own
hair had also been powdered-a discovery that elicited a general
screech. I rose to decamp, but this had been foreseen, and the
only door through which escape was possible was locked. Now
beset by a host of female foes, I dodged and ran till well-nigh
exhausted, in trying to evade incessant volleys of starch and
water. At length I protested if the unrighteous war was continued I must and would come to close quarters, and, vi et
armis, capture and play their own ordnance upon them. This
was received with fresh peals of merriment and fresh broadsides;
but, at last, an armistice, to endure through the day, was agreed
on. I now was told that the Intrudo begins to-morrow, when
all classes, in-doors and out, dust and sprinkle one another;
and that it is usual to do a little, by way of preface, the day before.
I retired to change my dress, but had not taken five paces ere
I was overtaken by a storm of colored balls, charged with some
liquid, similar to those I had noticed in the city.  Surprised at
this open breach of faith, and at the red and blue fragments with
which I was bespattered, I lost no time in reaching my room
and securing the door. I took from the shelf an old Portuguese
dictionary for information.  It derives Entrudo, or Inztrudo,
from the Latin Jintroitus —" Entrance, or Beginning;" and describes the festival as one in which people, like Bacchants,
romp, feast, dance, and frolic in-doors, and play all manner of
tricks out, wetting and powdering one another. Of the origin
of the feast-of which I had been treated to a foretaste —I could
learn nothing. Neither the vicar nor any one else appealed to
could impart the smallest glimmer of its history. That it dates
back to remote times is admitted.
It may be a question whether the Intrudo and the Carnival
of Italy are the same. Though associated with the great Quadragesimal fast, there are striking points of seeming difference.
The former, in its etymology, has no reference to abstinence
from butcher's meat, of which the latter is the literal expression.
Carni, "flesh;" vale, "farewell."  Carnival time extends from
G




98                   SKETCHES OF
tlJe first of January to the beginning of Lent; whereas the Intrudo occurs in the latter part of February, and lasts but three
days, invariably beginning on the Sunday previous to AshWednesday. Moreover, throwing dust and water is its special
characteristic, the most conspicuous of its rites.
Intrudo-balls-for so the colored shot are named —instead
of fruit, which they resemble, are mere shells of wax filled with
water. They are sufficiently tenacious to retain the liquid, to
bear gentle handling, and to be thrown to a considerable distance. Like more fatal bombs, they explode when they strike;
the wax is shivered, and most of it sticks where it hits. I received a present of specimens of a superior kind, formed like
bottles or decanters, and decorated with paint and gilding. The
necks were closed in imitation of corks sealed over. When
used, they are charged with cologne or other scented waters.
22d. This is Intrudo-day.  On rising, my friend Rfound the lower extremities of his pants sewed up. It is not
unusual to lodge half a dozen balls in each leg; but as he is
rather unwell, these singular marks of affection and foot-baths
were spared him. In the act of shaking hands, I had one or
two balls crushed il mine.  At breakfast one had his coffee
without sugar, another found it sweetened with salt, a third began to pick threads out of his mouth, which caused fresh explosions of laughter; of two plates of toast, fine thread had been
drawn through and through every piece, so that the teeth became unavoidably entangled in the meshes.  Some foreign merchants came up, on their way to the Botanic Garden.  Tinvited them  in.  The simpletons!  Their riding-costumes
were soon like bathing-dresses.  One got out without his hat,
and actually rode off bareheaded! IIe returned in the afternoon with a slave bearing a large basket of the cereal missiles,
and, quietly entering the rear, repaid his foes with interest.
The vicar came, and was saluted with cologne; they spared
his sutain the infliction of the starch. IIe mentioned instances
where he had been half drowned after receiving the most solemn
pledges that he would not be molested. That I can fully believe; and, turning to some ladies, asked how they could, and
(>n a Sunday too, tell such.  " Oh!" they replied, "Intrudo lies are no sin." There is no believing any one while it




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                     99
lasts.  The padre wisely took his departure; he did not dare
to stay for dinner, lest his rooms should be robbed by friends
sending, in his name, for every valuable in them.  Dofia F,
by a ruse of this kind, obtained a dozen bottles of porter from
J-'s carpenter, who had charge of them.  He himself tricked
the vicar last year.; and, by the aid of a slave, deprived a friend
of a turkey and fowls, upon which the owner and his family
dined as guests, without dreaming of having contributed to the
feast. It used to be a custom to set before guests joints of
wood, pies of sand, custards and puddings of kindred inedibles,
dishes out of which leaped frogs, etc.; but the Intrudo, like
other festivals, is not kept up as formerly.
Senhor F-   rose to depart, but was induced to drop again
into his seat, on which a neighbor had slipped a quantity of
flour, and water balls.  He sprang up as these nest-eggs
crushed beneath him, while the mischie.f-ioving projectors were
in convulsions. Nor was the tumult one whit lessened by his
manner of relieving the parts affected.  Finding it impossible
now to remain, he good-humoredly waved an adieu with one
hand, and with the other placed his hat upon his head-and
snatched it off again. It had been lined with the current ingredients of the day.  Two extremities of his person were
now in the condition of Quixote's head when he suddenly called for his helmet at an inconvenient moment for Sancho to deliver it.
Retiring to my room, I found a strange lady writing at the
-table. I paused and addressed her. No answer or motion. I
advanced.  The intruder was a bolster, furnished with sleeves,
skirts, bonnet, shawl, etc., very artistically got up.  Opening
the drawers, I found the sleeves and neck of every shirt sewed
up, and other garments hermetically sealed, so as to require
both time and patience to get into them.
Both sexes are expert in calming a person after an attack,
and throwing him off his guard. Ladies will show their open
palms, rub them down their sides, to prove that they have no
concealed missiles; sit down by you, express fatigue, and say
that a little frolic is well enough, but this excess is foolish, and
very vulgar; look innocent as MIadonnas, and conclude with
",No more Intrudo." Your suspicions are lulled; but, ten to




100                 SKETCHES OF
one, that same moment a couple of waxen wash-balls are applied to your face in the manner of soap and water, and a paper
of cassava starch emptied on you. Your fair enemy springs
from you with a shriek, and your surprise now takes another
turn. She draws from her person ball after ball, and paper after paper, till you are ready to conclude she js made of them, or
has some machine about her for producing them.
Employing parties on fool's errands is practiced. An unsuspicious person is sent on what he imagines a confidential matter of great moment to his friend —to borrow money, on an
emergency, perhaps. The substance of the letter he carries is,
" Send the fool to Senhor B, and ask him to forward him
with a like request to others!"
An example has been given of a family being feasted on their
own victuals. A reverend sweet-tooth revenged himself for a
similar trick played on him by indulging largely at a neighbor's table. His hilarity became more enhanced when a splendid cake was brought in and placed before him. With sparkling eyes he cut deep into it, and when three fourths had disappeared, some hint was dropped which caused him to rise, stand
aghast, and pray for patience!  The cake - a highly-valued
present from a female friend-had been filched from his own
larder!
I walked out toward the Passeio, and saw few individuals
molested. One gentleman in a new suit received two or three
balls, and was quite indignant: he addressed some remarks to
me, and pointed to the window whence the shots came. It is
useless to get vexed; those who do are sure to have their anger cooled by a fresh shower.
Youths, here and there, were playing with syringes. For
some time past I had noticed huge tin implements hanging by
the door-posts of " Funileiros," and occasionally met an individual carrying one home. Wondering for what they were
made, I stopped one day to examine them. All I could make
out from the laughing tinman was, "Two milreis"-the price of
one. They were quart and half-gallon Intrudo-squirts. Young
black rascals, who charge them in gutters, seldom molest any
except their own color; but white boys use no ceremony in
washing the Ethiops.  B --  told me of acquaintances who




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                     101
hlave concealed garden-engines to salute their friends with.  He
has one himself, but it is out of order.
The subjoined illustration, by a Rio artist, is a fair representJ'Y'
ation of playing the Intrudo in the street. I saw one negro laden
with water from the Carioco Font attacked in precisely the
Itli1                   lli
with water ~kom the Carioco Font attacked in loreeisely the




102                  SKETCHES OF
same way. He stumbled, and fell headlong, fortunately without being injured.
On retiring for the night, I could not find the way into bed.
The sheets and coverlet had been formed into a sack whose contracted mouth was under the bolster.  Relighting the candle, I
unraveled the sewing, and finally laid down to rest, heartily tired
of the Intrudo, and little thinking what cause I had to be thankful that half a bushel of balls had not been deposited at the foot
of the sack.
Puerilities of the Intrudo would hardly be worth noticing did
they not illustrate ancient manners.  Like other sports, they
have outlived institutions they were designed to celebrate; and
very naturally too, for all people love gayety and mirth, and
none ever willingly gave up stated periods for enjoying them.
The remarkable coincidences in language, customs, and other
matters that go to establish an intimacy, if not identity, between
the ancestors of the people of WMestern Europe and those of
Central Asia, have been often observed.  I am not aware that
the Intrudo has been thus elucidated.  There seems, however,
little room to doubt of its being the lio/tlee of Hindostan-a festival dating from mythic epochs, and, consequently, involved in
dense obscurity.
Some writers have supposed the Hohlee refers to the victorious return of a famous hero fiom battle.  Others think it was
founded on the orgies of Krishnu, a god more licentious than
the Grecian Jupiter. Others, again, imagine it had reference
to the close of the old year and the approach of spring, when
nature scatters over the earth her blossoms.  The epithet of
purple was given to the spring by ancient poets, and the same
season is supposed to be typified by the red powder which the
Hindoos, in celebrating the Hohlee, sportively throw at each
other.
A graphic account of the part he took in celebrating this festival at the court of a HIindostanee prince is thus given by Ir.
Broughton:
" Playing the Hohlee consists in throwing about a quantity of
flour made from a water-nut called singayra, and dyed with red
sanders: it is called cbeer, and the principal sport is to cast it
into the eyes, mouth, and nose of the players, and to splash




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                    103
them all over with water tinged of an orange color. The abeer
is often mixed with powdered talc to make it glitter, and then,
if it gets into the eyes, it causes a good deal of pain.  It is
sometimes inclosed in little globes made of some gelatinous fluid,
about the size of an egg, with which a good aim can be taken
at those you wish to attack; but they require to be dexterously handled, as they yield to the slightest touch........
"A few minutes after we had taken our seats, large brazen
trays filled with abeer, and the little balls already described,
were brought in and placed before the company, together with
yellow-colored water, and ct large silver s7quirt for each individual.  The Muha IRaj himself began the amusements by sprinkling a little red or yellow water upon us from goolabdans-small
silver vessels for sprinkling rose-water at visits of ceremony.
Every one then began to throw about the abeer and squirt at
his neighbors.  It is contrary to etiquette for any body to throw
at the Rlaj; lie had, however, been told that we had declared
our resolution to pelt every one who pelted us, and good-humoredly replied,' With all his heart, he was ready for us, and would
try which could pelt best.' We soon found, however, that we
acld not the slightest chance with him; for, besides a cloth
which his attendants held before his face, he had in a few minutes a large pipe of a fire-engine put in his hands, filled with
yellow water, and worked by half a dozen men.  With this
he played about him with such effect that in a short time
there was not a man in the tent who had a dry thread on his
back.
"' Sometimes he directed it against those who sat near him
with such force that it was not an easy matter for a person to
keep his seat. All opposition to this formidable engine was futile. Whole shovelfuls of abeer were cast about, and instantly followed by a shower of yellow water, and thus we were alternately
powdered and drenched, till the floor on which we sat was covered some inches in depth with a kind of pink and orange-colored mud. Such a scene I never witnessed in my life.*
"Figure to yourself successive groups of dancing-girls, bedecked with gold and silver lace, their tawdry trappings stained with
* See also WARD'S  "View of the Hzndoos" for this use of the syringe and throwing of red powder.




104                  SKETCHES OF
patches of abeer, and dripping, like so many Naiads, with orange-colored water —now chanting the Hohlee songs with all the
airs of practiced libertinism, and now shrinking, with affected
screams, beneath a fresh shower fiom the Raj's engine-the discord of drums, trumpets, fiddles, and cymbals, sounding as if
only to drown the other noises that rose around them-the triumlph of those who successfully threw the abeer, and the clamors of others who suffered from their attacks-the loud shouts
of laughter and applause which burst on all sides from the joyous crowd —figure to yourself, if you can, such an assemblage
of extraordinary objects, then paint them all in two glowing
tints of pink and yellow, and you will have some conception of
-a scene which absolutely beggars description."
In other respects the Intrudo and Hohlee agree.  The latter,
we are told, " takes place nearly at the same season as our AshWednesday, and it also precedes the Lent or Hindoo season of
expiation" —a coincidence of time and purpose as remarkable
as that of both festivals being celebrated by dust and waterby missive balls and syringes. The Hohllee is kept up by all
classes throughout India-an occasion of universal merriment.
Among the staple divertisements is also that which characterizes the 1st of April with us.
In several respects the Asiatic festival resembles the ancient
Saturnalia and the modern Carnival, the utmost license being
accorded to all ranks.  It has been compared to the lilaria,
celebrated in Rome at the vernal equinox in honor of the Mother of the Gods, lher statue being carried in procession, accompanied with crowds in masquerade, every person assuming by
his dress and manners whatever character he pleased.
In fact, nearly all our old Church festivals are allied to similar institutions of India, Egypt, Greece, and Rome.
To conclude this curious subject: within late years Indiarubber has been applied to a multitude of useful purposes. It
has contributed many valuable additions to medical and philosophical apparatus.  Bottles of it form a new and unique species of exhausting and compressing instruments. Neat aids to
breast and cupping-glasses, and substitutes for syringes.  The
last device is due to the aborigines of Northern Brazil.  In
Para, the country of caoutchouc, gum-elastic squirts have for




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                    105
ages been common, and, during the Intrudo, may be seen in
the hands of Indians, whites, and negroes.
Curious enough too, a yellow earth or ochre is thrown about,
as well as cassava starch.
BURIALS. -CEMETERIES.
In Rio, as every where else, life is a medley.  Tragedy and
comedy, death and diversions, farces and funerals, are mixed
up together.  No matter how popular the amusements, innocent the sports, or universal the joys, the Great Intruder can
neither be softened nor cajoled, and to him monasteries are as
attractive as masquerades.
In the midst of the Intrudo-revels, the Friar B3arboza, Secretary of the Historical and Geographical Institute, expired.  His
demise is deemed a loss to the country, lie having been considered the most devoted man in it to literature and science.  I
attended his obsequies at the Paula Church, and there witnessed
the transition from childish gambols to the solemnities of a funeral; from the heyday of life to contemplate its extinction.
Variable in his nature, man alternates between grief and joy;
the poles of his existence-toward one or the other he is ever
veering.
A friend of the deceased and I went early, and had time to
look about before the ceremonies began.  The church stands
at the head of Ouvidor Street, flush with the pavement, and is
relieved by poor-looking dwellings on either hand.  It is of the
prevailing style. Two square towers support the central part,
whose peaked pediment is surmounted with a huge bronze cross.
The towers run up a story higher, each finislied with a dome,
resembling a boy's inverted top, the peg set off with a brazen
chanticleer-the symbol of Peter and of vigilance.
The interior is a long, high, and airy saloon; the floor clear
of encumbrances; no aisles, columns, pews, nor aught else to
intercept the view or interrupt one's movements.  Light is admitted at the sides, near the arched and richly-carved roof,
through semicircular windows, through the street doors, which
as usual constitute the entrances, and also at three windows
over them.  The farther end is wholly taken up with the high
altar, a rich affair, with numerous candles burning. Above




106                  SKETCHES OF
them stands the saint, carved, draped, and painted to monkish
life. Against the side walls are six more shrines, three on each
side, with their images of natural dimensions, so that in this
place are seven altars, where seven distinct saints can be invoked, and where all, or nearly all of them, are consulted
daily.
This temple honors ignorance as well as superstition in the
person of its patron, Francis Alartotile, a Calabrian monk, who,
burying himself in a cell, acquired, as Fakirs acquire, notoriety
by disgusting mortifications.  Ile renounced fish, wine, meat,
stockings, shoes, beds, soap, and razors, besides rigorously cultivating mental destitution. The usual result followed; he, like
other dirty gentlemen who lived and died in the odor of sanctity and filth, wrought miracles.  His fame induced that old tiger
Louis XI. to drop on his knees before him, and implore his intercession with the saints for a prolongation of life-a miracle
too great for the monk and too good for the culprit.  What he
can do for people here of whose country he never heard, it is not
hard to tell.
The only sign of a funeral was a kind of sarcophagus-looking
stand in the middle of the floor, similar to the article furnished
by undertakers.  Four feet from it, on either side, stood a row
of nine gilt candlesticks of classic patterns, five feet high, with
candles to correspond. A negro mason was at work, cutting
a door-way into the left wall, some fifteen feet above the floor,
and near the altar, for an entrance to a new pendent or swallownest pulpit, to correspond with one opposite.  About a dozen
persons were in, and all moving and looking round as if on
change, except an elderly female, who came in and seated herself upon the matted floor within the balustrade.  Three colored women, also in black veils, appeared and seated themselves
beside her. These were the only females present. As I leaned
on the rails close by them, a well-dressed man of fifty came up,
and, kneeling near me, touched with his right thumb his head,
eyes, nose, cheeks, chin, mouth, shoulders, and breast.  Then,
without rising, lie gazed round, looked at the negro working in
the wall, nodded to me, and kept twisting himself about to see
what was going on behind him.
Negroes brought in huge trays of mammoth candles, and piled




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   107
them near the door. A number of gentlemen soon after entered,
and, with those already in, ranged themselves three deep on
either hand, forming a living passage from the door toward the
altar; and presently we all held lighted tapers, resting one end
on the floor, and inclining the upper one forward to prevent the
swealing material from descending on one's hands.  Two hundred of us thus stood, like soldiers at drill with muskets, in the
same position.  As currents caused the melted wax to accumulate beneath the flame, it was unceremoniously thrown on the
floor by bringing the tapers to a horizontal position. The officiating priest next entered, followed by others bearing the coffin, which they quickly placed upon the stand.
Coffins here are not like ours, being of the same width and
depth tlhroughout, and so shallow that the face, folded hands,
and feet of the corpse
_ ______,___- -~- _appear above the edge.
/m —-~.~./~~ ~   TThe covers are peak- ed, like the roofs of
hIouses, consisting of
two boards meeting in
the middle at an angle.  Hinged at both sides, they open along
the ridgue, so that either one half or both may be thrown back.
When finally closed, the only fastening is a small padlock.
When placed oni the stand, the folding lids were laid back,
and the deceased secretary, from where
I stood, appeared as
in the accompanying
sketch.  While the
__-~~-~ ~priests walked round
e1 I~ 4                   - the coffin, chanting,'iLi   K X"                -_ swinging   censers,
and sprinkling the
corpse, the black mason above, resting on his crow-bar, was a conspicuous spectator.
We now were about to witness the mode of burial; one of
classical antiquity, and which to my mind commends itself as
far superior to ours.  The cemeteries of Rio adjoin the rear or




108                 SKETCHES OF
sides of their respective churches. They are not seen from any
street, not opening directly into any. At first I wondered where
they were, and when I found them, I wondered more at their
limited dimensions. The dead are not interred in graves, nor
concealed below the surface; instead of extensive burial-grounds
or subterraneous excavations, room for four thick walls, of which
the side of a church commonly answers for one, is found sufficient. As these places are on one plan, a description of this of
St. Francisco de Paula will give a general idea of all.
Passing out through a side door, we entered a quadrangular
area bounded by four high walls, with a continuous shed or
roof projecting inward, leaving a central space open to the sky,
occupied by a few marble tomb-stones. The niches for the
dead, wrought in the walls, were a little over six feet by two
and a half, eighteen inches high at the ends, and two feet at
the middle, the roof forming a low arch. All are plastered and
whRitewashed.  In hot weather they would be no bad restingplaces for the living.  I was no longer surprised that people
j?|~~~~~~'
CEMETERY OF THE PAULA CHURCH.




LIFE IN  BRAZIL.                    10)
here are mostly buried without coffins, and especially as all are
entombed in their clothes.
Here were three tiers of niches, each continued round the
place. Those that are occupied have the fronts bricked up and
plastered over. All are numbered; no other mark or lettering.
Their tenants occupy them too short a time for inscriptions or
eulogies to remain.
The coffin was placed on a temporary platform close to a niche
in the middle tier, into which it was slid with the covers open.
A handkerchief was spread over the face of the deceased by one
of his friends; then, in succession, priests and friends stepped
up, one at a time, and, with a silver sprinkler handed by the
sacristan, threw holy water on the body, and emptied a small
scoop of powdered quick-lime, which an attendant held ready,
upon it. A bushel or more of lime was thus disposed of, until it
entirely concealed the body, and was heaped over the trunk. A
priest used the silver sprinkler once more, poured something out
of a small perforated box, and the church ceremonies were over.
WAe now put out our candles, and leaned them against the walls,
whence black attendants removed them.
A gentleman now drew a paper from his bosom, and for half
an hour read a eulogy on the dead. A second, third, and even
a fourth oration was thus delivered; at the close of which the
President of the Institute closed the coffin lids, locked them, and
handed the minute key to a relative of the defunct.  Thus closed
the interesting rites.  Several officers of state, of the military,
and members of the Senate were present.
In half an hour the front of the niche was bricked up, and
covered with a coat of white plaster.
In this mode of inhumation nothing like corruption takes
place. The lime consumes the flesh, and in two years the bones
are taken out and placed in a rosewood or marble vase, or burned, and the ashes preserved.  The niche will then be whitewashed, and ready for another tenant.
The cemeteries of Rio are literal copies, on a smaller scale,
of the sepulchral structures of the Greeks and Romans.* The
* See Moses' collection of vases, tripods, altars, etc. Plate 114 represents one
discovered in Rome in 1746  It has six rows of niches. Plate 113 exhibits another belonging to the Livia family-all above the surface of the ground.




110                 SKETCHES OF
form of coffins here is also of remote antiquity. Originally of
stone, and placed in the open air, their roofs were formed after
those of houses, and with the same view-to allow rain to run
off. Stone sarcophagi of this description are counted among
the oldest of ecclesiastic monuments in Europe.
Two of the orations were published.  The style is too figurative for colder latitudes, but is characteristic of the genius of
Brazil. The deceased had been ambitious of political, as well
as of scientific and monastic fame.  He was a member of the
Chamber of Deputies, took an active part in the Revolution, and
urged Pedro to assume the title of " Emperor," as one more imposing than that of " King."  An extract from the best of the
panegyrics is added:
"Almost a quarter of a century after the consummation of
the famed fact-the creation of a new empire on the earthDeath has come and snatched away a chief actor in the great
drama, of which the principal actor was the son of kings, the beloved Prince of Liberty in the Old World and the New.*
" He is dead who, in that epoch of enthusiasm, proposed to
the new sovereign the title of Emperor, and who, undaunted,
raised his voice in the midst of bayonets, to anathematize an
oppressive policy, designed to reconquer in America the irreparable past, to suspend chains in the throne where kings had been
seated, and from which flowed facts that rendered a regress to
slavery impossible.
"The New World was not shaped to be measured by the
hands of a pigmy. The mouths of the Amazon, Madeira, Xingu,
and Guayba, were designed by Providence for a people of giants;
and for a prince who, from the summit of his throne, must one
day have conference with the universe, and mark the track of
his high destiny! The conception of this grand idea was not
sufficient for the genius of the man who now rests in the bed of
death, but day and night, with his ardent and creative soul, he
worked to complete it.
" Twenty-six honorary titles adorn his memory, and in eighteen illustrious societies was his name proclaimed that of a sage.
" Brazil must shed tears for the loss of the Canon Januario
da Cunha Barboza."
* This was Pedro I., whom the Brazilians expelled for his tyranny.




LIFE  IN  BRAZIL.                        111
CHAPTER X.
The Marimba.-Procession announced.-Unloading Lime-boats.-Lapa Convent
and Lady at Confession.-The Campo and Lavandeiras.-Dog-killers.-Customhouse.-Trucks.-A Slave chained to one.-Young and old Women in Chains.
-Coffee Carriers.-Crippled Slaves. The Spectacle given up.-An Angel.The Musuem. —Antiquities, etc.-Fathers of Snuff and the Snuff-trade.-Original Snuff-mills and Sniffing Apparatus.- Slave-traders.-Monastery of San
Bento: its Monks, Chapel, Cells, Library, and Bookworms.-Sopping.-Great
Wealth of this Monastery.
25t1k. This morning a slave came along with a load on his
head and both hands in a large gourd, out of which he drew a
fashionable waltzing tune.  I took the opportunity of examining the popular Ylariimbc.  Every African nation has its own,
so that a Congo, Angola, Minas, Ashantee, or Mozambique instrument is recognizable, but the differences are not great.  A
series of thin steel rods, from ten to fifteen, are fixed on a thin
=i.~~. f   *it  l   i I'':v'~rilii




112                 SKETCHES OF
board, five or six inches square, in the manner of flute-keys,
which they resemble. A long and a short one alternate; sometimes they diminish like Pan-pipes. The board is secured in
the larger half of a dry calabash.  Grasping it with his fingers
beneath, and his thumbs on the keys, he produces, by pushing
them down at one end and letting them fly back, a soft humming sound allied to that of the Jews'-harp.  The city is an
Ethiopian theatre, and this the favorite instrument of the orchestra.  Slaves are daily met playing African airs on it, and
groups returning to the country have commonly one or two
among them.  In the preceding illustration, a couple are, like
Jewish captives by the river of Chebar, reviving recollections
of home in the songs of their native land.
As this is Ash-Wednesday, there is to be a procession, toward evening, from the Church of " St. Francis of the Penitence."  Fourteen images, and among them " Black Benedict,"
are to come down the hill and parade the streets. Angels, too
-real, living, winged spirits-will, it is said, join the pageant.
The lime of Rio is made of shells scooped out of the Bay,
and, of course, is in powder.  See that falua-a light boat of
one mast —riding at anchor some fifty feet from the Gloria
Beach. She is charged with lime, and, dancing on the swell,
is unloading her cargo.  The slave on her bows, keeping her
head to the shore with a long bamboo, is captain; the other, on
the gunwale, raising the dust on the blade of a hoe, is her deckhand.  Observe those four blacks, with empty tea-chests on
their heads, wading toward her, and as many coming from her
with their boxes filled. How steadily they move, where the
waves would take a stranger off his feet! The water is at the
arm-pits of him who is lifting his load from the edge of the vessel; and see, as he turns and breasts that retiring swell, it
swashes over his eyes. Now he comes dripping out, ascends
the bank, and, crossing the street, empties his chest on the floor
of an establishment for the sale of building materials. As he
does, so do eight or ten more, keeping the hoe (used in place of
a shovel) in constant motion.
Their dresses are too primitive for laborers on our wharves.
Some are, like the skippers on the craft, in shirts minus both
sleeves and skirts; others wear a petticoat that neither reaches




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                  113
the knees nor meets behind; and two have aprons not one whit
wider than aprons usually are. White as their contents, the
boxes contrast strongly with their moving pedestals, while these
increase in height as they near the beach, and all but disappear
at the falua. One, while his box was being filled, plunged over
head and washed himself; then tore off a part of his pinafore,
and fastened it over his shoulders, to protect them from the
caustic dust.  The scene altogether is a novel one, though common enough here. One old man's head is so whitened with the
dust as to remind one of a cauliflower on a coal-sack.
Wending along, I came to the Lapa Church, and convent behind it. A genteel young man, certainly not out of his teens,
was at the door, in a prim white alb just from the laundress.
The little shaven spot on his head glistened within its comate
boundary like a disk of pearl inlaid in ebony. As I had inferred from repeatedly passing that the interior was in ruins, I
stepped in. The old rough walls were bare, the floor unflagged
and piled up with rubbish. The only part finished was the
ceiling, upon which the "Lady of Lapa," with legendary attendants in vivid colors, contrasted strangely with the desolation below them. Turning to the right, a little chapel appeared, in
which a solitary monk was reading on a bench, and near him
three females seated on the floor. Another door opens here into
the cemetery. I passed through it into a passage, and followed
on into the sacristy. Here were three shrines, and, as no one
appeared, I examined them rather closely; but, on passing
round the second to the third, lo! the skirts of a lady at confession behind a chair, and the handsome young friar reclining
in it with his ear at the strainer.
I retired, and continued on to the Campo-a spacious square,
on the sides of which several national buildings stand, including
the Senate-house. Covered with stunted grass, and the site of
one of the principal fountains, it is the city's great washing and
bleaching establishment, and is ever alive with lavandeiras.
More than two hundred are now scattered over the field, exclusive of crowds at the fount. From the surrounding mountain
peaks they must appear like clamorous daws or restless magpies. How busy all are, each in the centre of a ring of drying
garments! The huge wooden bowl, which, in coming and reH




114                 SKETCHES OF
turning, serves as a basket, is now a washing-tub, and "the
baril" a bucking-stool.  Most
are, like their Larangeiras sisters, slightly draped. A single
vestment with most suffices, and
with its purification the wearer
winds up her labors.  Some are
Minas and Mozambique girls, as
evinced by their superior forms,
and attentions to attire. If others are naked to the waist, these....ia 7~?_~     ~-~~_;,: _ ~ are so seldom.  Figures graceful as any seen at the wells of
the East occur among them.
With this business of the Campo the heavens sympathize;
for, while the grass is half concealed by garments bleaching in
the sun, the blue welkin is dappled over with snow-white patches, as if it was drying-day above.  For the oldest and thickest
settled parts of Rio this is the only washing-place; as such it
is never clear, except in rainy weather, when we may suppose
Celestials are wringing out wet linen.
The fountain supplies a wide district with water, and hence
no small part of the colored population is constantly passing
to and from it.  Let us draw near.  What a hubbub! A Hottentot fair can not surpass it. These two military policemen
may prevent a lusty negro squeezing in before his turn and
pushing aside the half-filled baril of a weak one, but they can
not silence the oral clamor.  The fluid not borne off runs into
two stone cisterns, thirty feet by fifteen, and keeps them kneedeep filled. They are bordered with granite coping, which, sloping outward, forms continuous washboards for the negroes within. A dozen or more are busy in each. Splash, swash, go
shirts and sheetings! Plunged, pounded, twisted like a rope,
swung overhead, and flap, slap, down they come upon the coping. A score of these thongs are whirling in the air at once,
wielded by infuriates, whose laughings and screaming interjections break the monotony of the ceaseless gabble at the fount.
Soap Street appropriately runs into the Campo.
Lavandeiras have no saint assigned them, yet they deserve



LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   115
one, were it only to relieve them once a year from the washingtub. No class have stronger claims upon the Church, nor on
the saints themselves. A mass can not be performed nor a
festa kept without them. Festas are hailed as blessings by all
others, but what do they for these? Drawing near they demand additional toil, and in departing leave them naught but
piles of dirty linen.
Invited to dine in the city that I might witness the procession, I now turned down Ruo San Pedro, a long and narrow
street, in which iron and copper smiths, hatters, and guitarmakers were at work. And here I again observed how dogs
are sacrificed to Sirius. The priest devoted to this service used
to dispatch his victims, like a Roman cultrarius, with a mall or
bludgeon, insidiously pursuing them from street to street; but
now, to avoid the evil omens of evasive blows, he drops little
balls made of flour, fat, and nux vomica, which are eagerly devoured by the unsuspecting animals. Convulsions and death
quickly follow. I have passed to-day no less than four expiring and expired, and here was the fifth.
I emerged from the long avenue in Dereita Street, not far
from the Custom-house, where street-passengers have to run
a muck through piles of bales, barrels, packages, crates, trucks,
and bustling and sweating negroes. Here are no carts drawn
by quadrupeds for the transportation of merchandise. Slaves
are the beasts of draught as well as of burden. The loads they
drag, and the roads they drag them over, are enough to kill both
mules and horses. Formerly, few contrivances on wheels were
used at the Custom-house.  Every thing was moved over the
ground by simply dragging it. A good deal of this kind of
work is still done. See! there are two slaves moving off with a
cask of hardware on a plank of wood, with a rope passed through
a hole at one end, and the bottom greased or wetted! Such
things were a few years ago very common.
Trucks in every variety are now numerous. Some recent
ones are as heavily built and ironed as brewers' drays, which
they resemble, furnished with winches in front to raise heavy
goods. Each is of itself sufficient for any animal below an elephant to draw; and yet loads varying from half a ton to a ton
are dragged on them by negroes. Two strain at the shafts and




116                 SKETCHES OF
one or two push behind, or, what is quite as common, walk by
the wheels and pull down the spokes. It is surprising how
their naked feet and legs escape being crushed, the more so as
those in front can not prevent the wheels every now and then
sinking into the gutters, and whirling the shafts violently one
way or the other. One acts as foreman, and the way he gives
his orders is a caution to the timid.  From a settled calm he in
a moment rages like a maniac, and seems ready to tear his associates to pieces.
A slave was chained to one heavy truck.  He had been absent when it was wanted, and his enraged owner took this method of preventing him from losing another job. The links of the
chain were three quarter inch round iron.
Neither age nor sex is free from iron shackles.  I met this
morning a very handsome Mozambique girl with a double-pronged collar on; she could not have been over sixteen. And a few
evenings ago, while standing on the balcony of a house in Custom-house Street, a little old negress, four fifths naked, toddled past, in the middle of the street, with an enormous tub of
swill on her head, and secured by a lock and chain to her neck.
" Explain that, Mr. C," I said.  " Oh, she is going to empty slops on the beach, and being probably in the habit of visiting vendas, she is thus prevented, as the offensive vessel would




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                  117
not be admitted. Some slaves have been known to sell their' barils' for rum, and such are sent to the fountains and to the
Praya accoutred as that old woman is."
With a friend I went to the Consulado, a department of the
Customs having charge over exports. Gangs of slaves came in
continually with coffee for shipment. Every bag is pierced and
a sample withdrawn while on the carrier's head, to determine
the quality and duty. The tariff, based on the market price, is
regulated every Saturday. At present the duty amounts to
eleven per cent. on coffee and seven on sugars. The instrument used to withdraw samples of coffee is a brass tube, cut precisely like a pen. The point is pushed in at the under side of
the bag, and the berries pass through the tube. A handful is
abstracted. On withdrawing the instrument, its point is drawn
over, and closes the opening. The operation occupies but a few
seconds. The samples amount to some tons in a year. They,
with those of exported sugars, are given to the Lazaretto.
Every gang of coffee-carriers has a leader, who commonly
shakes a rattle, to the music of which his associates behind him
chant.  The load, weighing 160 lbs., rests on the head and
shoulders, the body is inclined forward, and the pace is a trot




118                 SKETCHES OF
or half run. Most are stout and athletic, but a few are so small
and slightly-made that one wonders how they manage to keep
up with the rest. The average life of a coffee-carrier does not
exceed ten years. In that time the work ruptures and kills
them. They have so much a bag, and what they earn over the
sum daily required by their owners they keep.  Except four or
five, whose sole dress was short canvas shirts, without sleeves,
all were naked from the waist upward and from the knees below; a few had on nothing bitt a towel round the loins.  Their
rich chocolate skins shone in the sun. On returning, some kept
up their previous chant, and ran as if enjoying the toil; others
went more leisurely, and among them some noble-looking fellows stepped with much natural grace.
A gang of fourteen slaves came past with enormously wide
but shallow baskets on their heads. They were unloading a
barge of sea-coal, and conveying it to a foundry or forge. The
weight each bore appeared equal to that of a bag of coffee (160
lbs.). This mode of transporting coal has one advantage over
ours, since the material is taken directly from the vessel to the
place where it is to be consumed.  As with coal, so with every
thing; when an article is once mounted on the head of a negro,
it is only removed at the place where it is to remain.
A couple of slaves followed the coal-carriers, each perspiring
under a pair of the largest sized blacksmith bellows-a load for
a horse and cart with us. A week ago I stood to observe eight
oxen drag an ordinary wagon-load of building stone for the Capuchins up the steep Castle hill; it was straining work for
them to ascend a few rods at a time; to-day I noticed similar
loads of stone discharged at the foot of the ascent, and borne
up on negroes' heads.
No wonder that slaves shockingly crippled in their lower
limbs are so numerous.  There waddled before me, in a manner distressing to behold, a man whose thighs and legs curved
so far outward that his trunk was not over fifteen inches from
the ground. It appeared sufficiently heavy, without the loaded basket on his head, to snap the osseous stem and drop between his feet. I observed another whose knees crossed each
other, and his feet preternaturally apart, as if superincumbent
loads had pushed his knees in instead of out. The lamplighter




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   119
of the Cattete district exhibits another variety. His body is
settled low down, his feet are drawn both to one side, so that
his legs are parallel at an angle of thirty degrees. The heads of
Africans are hard, their necks strong, and both, being perpendicular to the loads they are called to support, are seldom injured.
It is the lower parts of the moving columns, where the weights
are alternately thrown on and off the jointed thighs and legs,
that are the weakest. These necessarily are the first to give
way under excessive burdens; and here are examples of their
having yielded and broken down in every direction.
Dereita Street is the chief scene of religious pomps.  By
four P.M. the balconies began to fill with ladies in full dress, the
heads of several adorned with flowers, and the necks and ears
of all with chains and pendents.  In the whole street there was
not a cap or a bonnet to be seen.  By five, the crowds on the
side-walks became anxious and restless, for the sky was overcast and increased in gloom. At six the clouds dissolved in
rain, and the spectacle was given up.
On the way home I overtook some of the actors in their acting dresses, and in one couple beheld a vivid symbol of ethereal
essence chained to mortality- a short, fat lay-brother, bareheaded, his face glistening with perspiration, and the skirts of
his black alb or gown draggling on the wet pavement, over
which he was hastening with a speed and gait any thing but attractive. In one hand he held an open umbrella, and with the
other pulled after him an " angel of the festival"-a little, pretty girl of six or seven. Her face was painted; a diadem surmounted her flowing ringlets; she wore a short scarlet frock,
the stomacher glittering with gems, and the skirts expanded by
elastic hoops; tight yellow boots inclosed her tiny feet, and a
pair of Cupid's wings fluttered at her shoulders.  There was no
looking at the little Houri without admiring her as she tripped
along buoyant as air.  The springs in her wings and skirts inflated them, and at every step she seemed ready to rise and soar
away the instant her captor let go her hand.
27th. HI    and I devoted this day to the Museum, which
faces the Senate-liouse in the Campo. The curator, a Carmelite friar and professor of chemistry, received us cheerfully. In
the yard was a caged king-vulture, the handsomest of accipi



120                 SKETCHES OF
trines; his body was cream-color and slate, with roseate tints;
his head and neck, protruded from an ample frill, were variegated with crimson, green, yellow, and some darker patches.
In a long box near him lay snugly coiled a twelve-foot boa,
from MIinas Province. Close by was a curiosity of another
kind, a mounted cannon, four and a half feet long, three inches
bore, composed of two longitudinal slabs of hard and heavy
wood, strongly bound by numerous wrought-iron rings. It had
evidently been used. It was taken from the rebels at Para
during an attempt at revolution there, some eight or nine years
ago.
Zoology and ornithology are the chief features of the Museum.
The native feline tribes, from the jaguar to the smallest of tigercats, are fully represented; so are the quadrumana.  One sloth
is nearly four feet in length; the rest are less than three.  In
the brilliant assemblage of birds are representatives from every
province, including, of necessity, a numerous deputation from
those fairies of the forest, humming-birds.
For students of numismatics, here are ancient and modern
coins and medals. The collection of minerals is extensive, and
a laboratory for the analysis of ores is provided.  Some interesting Egyptian antiquities have also been procured.
Native antiquities are few and not of much interest; but this
feature of the institution will improve. There are a few embalmed heads from the Amazon. The Tapajos thus preserved
the skulls of their enemies, and on special occasions carried them
suspended on the breast as amulets.
They look horrible enough, worse than New Zealand specimens placed near them.  The sockets of the eyes are filled with
a dark resinous matter, in which are imbedded small pieces of
bone or shell.  Into the open mouths are inserted the ends of
strong corded loops, and the whole filled flush with cement.




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   121
A ridge of black hair remains on the crown, and at the occiput
considerable quantities adhere. Large and handsome feather
rosettes conceal the ears, like similar ornaments of ribbon worn
by modern ladies.
In one case were specimens of musical instruments. Double
flutes were extensively used by the classical ancients, and here
they are as constructed by American aborigines. The bones
of which they are made are yellow, jagged, and far from inviting
to delicate lips. Their tones, however, are singularly soft and
mellow.
A represents the largest. Each bone is twelve inches long,
and three eighths of an inch bore. They are united by twine,
neatly wound and worked. On the back of the lower parts are
finger-holes-shown at B:
If\  tthese were stopped up; perhaps they were experimental additions of some Brazilian Pronomus. The conaB) C   struction of the sounding,
or whistle part, is seen at
C, a cone of resinous cement being secured immediately under the orifice. The
ridge of cement rises to the
centre of the tube.  The instrument is played by blowing
through the upper end, as in a clarionet. E is a smaller flute,
to be blown at either end. F has a swelled wooden mouthpiece, and no side-opening.  Dual bone flutes, with finger-holes,
are yet in use in the northern provinces, Jesides bamboo flutes,
and instruments with which the voices of wild beasts are imitable with singular accuracy. Single and double flutes of Greece
and Rome were of bone.  The " Ossea Tibia" was made of the
leg-bone of a crane.
A cazique's trumpet is figured at G. The substance, hard
as iron and black as jet, appeared to have been handsomely
carved. The diverging orifice is furnished with a double row
of scarlet and yellow feathers, which add to its length, and by
their vibration probably affected the notes. Through age they
are mostly stripped. While attempting to revive its long-silent




122                  SKETCHES OF
tones, the deputy curator asked if we knew what it was made
of. It was the end of an alligator's tail! Rams' horns were
the primeval clarions of the East, but no quadruped of South
America supplied any thing of the kind; hence these amphibious substitutes.
The next thing was an article of female ingenuity, a comb,
in which the teeth, set edgeways, are thin slips of hard wood,
uniform in size and shape, and, by means of four transverse
it pieces, firmly strung together by thread.
Ulll) lll mThe needle-work forms a broad band,
with raised borders, reflecting waved figas if woven, and the instrument is strong
as modern ones. The thread is round,
well twisted, and uniform as silk cord.
Its material is from the macaya, a species of cocoa, whose fruit
produces a shining white fibre, stiffer than silk and stronger
than cotton. Specimens of the undressed fibre, of thread made
of it, and of stockings, are in the Museum.
Combs of rosewood, sometimes attached to coronals of feathers and other head ornaments, are still common among the Indians, and display both taste and skill in the hands that put
them together.
The only sample of ancient native earthenware in the Museum
was disinterred between twenty and thirty years ago on the
Praya Flamingo, while digging foundations for a house. The
internal diameter at the rim is eighteen inches, the depth six.
The thickness of the bottom and of the sides exceeds an inch.  It was
__  probably used as a calBA.IN...dron, the under side being
ANCIENT BRAZILIAN BASIN.  blackened as with fire.
No signs are observable of the wheel in its formation, though
the circle is tolerably correct.  The material is a grayish-yellow clay, and imperfectly burned.  The inside has been profusely decorated.  A band of dark red goes round just below
the rim, and the rest is covered with: complicated lines, that are
more like a mass of serpents entangled together than any thing




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   123
else. Small dots are mingled with them. A light and poor
kind of glazing has been put on, of which remains are left. The
surface, inside and out, is covered with an infinity of minute
cracks, like old teacups thus disfigured. The outside has been
colored red, the inside a palish yellow, the ornamental lines
brown.
In another case were mills for triturating leaves of a popular
plant, of which large quantities were manufactured by the ancient natives; also a couple of philosophical apparatus by which
the prepared material was conveyed into dark, tortuous, and
precipitous caverns.
Previous to unlocking the case, our courteous attendant opened and gracefully offered his snuff-box —a common Brazilian
practice. It reminds one of relators of long or dry stories beginning with lighting a pipe, or treating themselves with a pinch.
Suppose we imitate them on this occasion:
Modern lovers of the pipe seldom think of the worthies to
whom they are indebted for its free enjoyment; and of those
who delight in nasal aliment, how few ever call to mind the
Diocletian persecutions their predecessors passed through for
adhering to their faith in, and transferring to their descendants
the virtues of tobacco. Europe frowned, and Asia threatened.
Pagan, Mohammedan, and Christian monarchs combined to
crush them. James I., foaming with rage, sent forth his "Counterblast;" the half-savage ruler of the [Muscovites followed
suit; the King of Persia, Amurath IV. of Turkey, the Emperor
Jehan-Geer, and others, joined the crusade.  They denounced
death to all found inhaling the fumes of the plant through a
tube, or caught with a pellet of it under their tongues. Those
who used it as a sternutative only were to be deprived of nostrils and nose.  To perfect the miseries of the delinquents, Urban VIII. went in state to the Vatican, where, tremulous with
holy anger, he shook his garments, to intimate that the blood
of the offenders would be on their own heads, and then thundered excommunication on every soul who took the accursed
thing in any shape into a church.
Loss of life for lighting a pipe!  Mutilation for taking a
pinch!  Tortures here, and endless torments hereafter, for a
whiff or quid of tobacco! One wonders how the sufferers man



124                 SKETCHES OF
aged to pass through the fire unscathed, or even to escape annihilation; yet most of them did escape, and they did morethey converted the Nebuchadnezzars who sought to consume
them.
What a spectacle! The world in arms against an herb, and
anon prostrate before it!  Proud rulers worshiping the idol
whose admirers they had so fearfully menaced, and lawgivers
avowed violators of their own laws! The modes adopted to exterminate the plant increased the demand for it, till it was sought
for with an avidity that no penal enactments could suppress.
Royal and sacerdotal clamor had raised its consumption ten
thousand fold. The tide turned, and all began to praise the
magic leaf. Ladies joined their lords in smoking after meals;
boys carried pipes in their satchels to school, and at a certain
hour pedagogues and pupils whiffed together. Not a bad subject for a painter. Mothers in the sixteenth century filled their
sons' pipes early in the morning, to serve them instead of breakfast. People went to bed with cigars or pipes in their mouths,
and rose in the night to light them.  All classes became consumers; even priests were not excepted, provided they refrained
till after mass. To accommodate travelers, poor and transient
persons, Tabagies, or smoking-houses, were licensed on the Continent in every marine and inland town, where sailors and itinerants could, on moderate terms, be made happy, either by inhaling the vapor of the popular stimulant or tickling their nasal
membranes with it. The ambitious sought fame by associating
themselves with the introduction of the plant and its cultivation;
hence we find it named after cardinals, legates, and embassaadors, while, in compliment to Catharine de Medicis, it was called
" the Queen's herb." Kings now rushed into the tobacco-trade.
Those of Spain took the lead, and became the largest manufacturers of snuff and cigars in Christendom.  The royal workshops in Seville are still the most extensive in Europe. Other
monarchs monopolized the business in their dominions, and all
began to reap enormous profits from it, as most do at this day.
Much has been written on a revolution so unique in its origin, unsurpassed in incidents and results, and constituting one
of the most singular episodes in human history; but next to
nothing is recorded of whence the various processes of manufac



LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   125
ture and uses were derived.  Some imagine the popular pabulum for the nose of transatlantic origin: no such thing. Columbus first beheld smokers in the Antilles, Pizarro found chewers in Peru, but it was in the country discovered by Cabral that
the great sternutatory was originally found. Brazilian Indians
were the fathers of snuff, and its best fabricators. Though
counted among the least refined of aborigines, their taste in this
matter was as pure as that of the fashionable world of the East.
Their snuff has never been surpassed, nor their apparatus for
making it.
The following is their milling and sniffing machinery-machinery, we believe, never figured and published before.
F is a slab ofjacaranda (rosewood),![2 ~  |,ten inches long, of
which five are taken
_   up with the handle.
The blade is nearly
half an inch thick,
with a cavity in the
middle.  The extremity of the han~      C  D             F            die represents the
head of a serpent,
with the tongue proANCIENT BRAZILIAN SNUFF-MILLS.
truded. E is a cylindrical stick of rosewood, nine inches long and three fourths of
an inch in diameter. These two constitute a mill. The owner
takes out of a "chus3pa"-a pouch, commonly slung over his
right shoulder-a few pieces of dried tobacco leaf, places them
in the cavity, and, grasping the stick, grinds them by rubbing
its end to and fro upon them, and in a few moments reduces
them to a rich and fragrant snuff; nor is the fragrance wholly
due to the substance ground, but to the material of the mill.
The heat developed by the friction of two pieces of odorous
wood evolves a pleasant aroma that impregnates the powder.
The article being thus prepared, the next thing is to transmit
it to its destination ere it grows cold, or the odor becomes weakened by evaporation. The apparatus for this part of the busi



126                 SKETCHES OF
ness is shown at A; it consists of a double tube, consisting of
two light cylindrical bones united by thread, having the upper
ends tipped with small wooden bulbs. The reader has anticipated the rest: no sooner is the triturating process ended than
the pestle or stick is thrown down, the plain ends of the tube
are plunged into the smoking powder, the others inserted into
the nostrils, and by a smart inhalation the warm-scented dust
is diffused in a trice over the olfactory palate! D represents
another mnill, in which the grinding receptacle is in the shape of
a gutter running out at the end of the blade; C is an edge view,
and B the rubber.
Suspended by a string round the neck, an Indian had this
apparatus always at hand. At the back of one or both is an
angular recess for the purpose of producing fire by friction,
thus uniting in each a snuff-box, mill, and tinder-box.
Modern Indians are as fond of snuff as their ancestors; their
apparatus for making and taking it are also similar to those described. I have seen neat circular mills from two to five inches
across, with short conical and pyramidal pestles or mullers;
sniffing-pipes also, more portable than those figured. Sometimes three bones are united-one to put into the snuff, connected with two for the nose-like one pipe serving two suctionpumps.
An ardent enemy to all stimulants, wet or dry, might, after
reading the foregoing, be disposed to ask, And has not tobacco
avenged, to some extent, the New World for the blood of her
children slain by those of the Old-in its Circean effects, physical and moral; in the wealth it has drawn and continues to
draw from consumers? All the conquerors have become tainted with the poison; the most ruthless are the most deeply polluted. Formerly the first powers of the earth —now contemptible for their weakness, dissensions, and crimes- slaves to
blighting superstitions, to ignorance, poverty, pride, and a poisonous weed.
28th. A slaver arrived on the coast the other evening, and
yesterday her cargo was landed a little north of the city, with
slight attempts at concealment.  J-   says the largest fortunes here, with few exceptions, are realized by the traffic.
Passing lately a new castle-like structure in Mata Cavallos, he




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                      127
remarked, " The blood of negroes built that." A Brazilian lady
observed more than once to me that the great slave-merchants
do not flourish long, and never prosper to the last. " They die
early, or their wealth leaves them; they live unhappy, and seldom leave children. With them the smell of gain is good, but
like ice it melts away."
Miet H-   according to appointment, and started with him
to visit the Monastery of San Bento, the oldest one in Brazil.
Male visitors are admitted from  nine to twelve.  To females
the entr&e is tabooed. Climbing the wide zigzag steep, we
reached the plateau.  The building appears rather small and
mean. The front of the church looks like the gable end of an
old Dutch house, except that two square towers run up a little
higher, and are set off with low pyramidal termini. We entered on a corridor paved with plain and lettered tomb-stones of
monks and abbots: one bears the date of 1560.  A colored
man was standing by the chapel door; he told us the fathers
were at prayers, and  would soon be out. Presently they came
rushing forth, not the aged and emaciated beings I had anticipated, but smart young fellows, fat and fair. There were fifteen, of whom not one could be over twenty-three, and some
had certainly not seen eighteen. In long-sleeved gowns, nothing but their heads and hands were visible.  All bore the
Church's mark, but scarcely two of their tonsures were alike.*
H      recognized an acquaintance in one, and by a low shr
arrested his attention; then, closing once or twice the fingers of
his right hand without raising it from his side, the young father
came directly to us. An affable and good-looking youth of about
seventeen, he led us into the chapel, the richest in ancient carvings and gilding in the city. It seemed all gold, but much worn
and tarnished. In the naves are statues of four kings, and eight
bishops of the Benedictine order, in the midst of arabesques,
flowers, and figures in high relief.  San Bento himself stands
at one side of the altar, and Our Lady on the other. One lamp
* Anciently a mark of infamy inflicted on felons and slaves, shaving the head
was adopted from a mistaken humility, to show that those who bore the stigma
were slaves to the Church; but then the razor swept the whole scalp. In time,
portions were excepted, and eventually a circular spot on the crown was alone
made bare, and now it varies in dimensions, as in these young friars, from a shilling to a saucer.




128                 SKETCHES OF
is remarkable for its design and ornaments. Two other antiques of the kind weigh between three and four thousand ounces
of silver.
The monks' cells are arranged along both sides of wide passages on the second floor. Neat little rooms, each is furnished
with a bed, bureau, table, chair, and looking-glass. They are
kept in order by male slaves. The organ-gallery has some fine
old Gothic furniture: a reading-table on a spiral stem is worthy of special notice. At the back of the organ, and facing the
choristers, is a large statue of Christ on the cross, horrible to
look at, on account of the wounds, blood, and the agony depicted in the features. In one of the gallery passages, among lumber, stood another statue, nearly full size.
Our young friend obtained permission to show us the library
-a large, commodious room on the highest floor, with prospects
opening from its windows enough to enchant an anchorite. Before the agitation of independence, here were fourteen thousand
volumes; at the close of commotions incident to it, not half remained.  Great numbers of the missing volumes are said to be
in the public library-a place more favorable to their preservation and to public access. With few exceptions, the shelves
were laden with massive Latin tomes of the fathers, canon law,
legends of the Church, lives of the saints, &c. Baronius, in
34 immense folios, besides 3 of indices; Albertus in 21; Orders, Acts, and Annals of St. Benedict, in 12 or 14 more; a valuable work, in 40 or 50 folios, on the Antiquities of Italy and
Greece.  Montfaucon, Aristotle, and a few treatises on Philosophy.
To what extent reading is enjoined by the abbot we did not
learn, but no private or public collection bears stronger marks
of bibliothecal taste or literary voracity. We read of recluses
wearing out missals, but here one fifth, one fourth, and, in some
cases, one third of every leaf has disappeared, and the remainder left as free from backs and covers as if they had never been
glued together. Ponderous folios have been reduced to shapeless sheets, varying between quartos and octavos. As may be
surmised, these persevering seekers after knowledge are of Formican descent; children of a race proverbially wise; industrious too, for to them Solomon sent sluggards for instruction.




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                  129
Now, near twelve, we descended and looked for a moment
into the kitchen, where a negro was hopping about on one leg,
aided by a crutch. Some years ago he applied for charity, and
is now cook. A laughing lad of sixteen, a friar, was attending,
in his turn, on such poor visitors as might come a sopping.
"And have any come?"  "Si, senhor," he replied, and beckoned us to the open door of the refectory: four rather respectablydressed white men were busy, each with a heaped plate of rice
and fish. Common beggars bring their own spoon and calabash,
and receive sops and porridge outside. Recollecting how Cervantes and poor Spanish scholars often depended on victuals
thus doled out of monasteries, I suggested, in order more fully
to realize the thing, that we should go in and be indebted to
Saint Benedict for a dinner. The young father was delighted
with the proposition, and was on the point of calling on the
wooden-legged provider, but my companion was inflexible.
This monastery is reputed here the richest in the world. Besides the greater parts of some streets, and the whole of others,
where stores bring the best rents, the fathers have estates in
each of the eighteen divisions of the empire. Their principal
lands are in the three provinces of Rio, Bahia, and Pernambuco.
On some plantations they employ a thousand slaves. On Ilha
do Governador, the largest island in Rio Bay, they have a large
farming establishment, over which a number of friars regularly
preside. A numerous brood of colored boys and girls are there
raised till old enough to be sent to labor on the estates in the
interior.!




130                     SKETCHES OF
CHAPTER XI.
Diversity of Complexion in one Family.-Sabbath Diversions.-Street of Silversmiths.-Its staple Manufactures.-Amulets.-Figas.-Lock and Key.-Passage
in Shakspeare explained.-Eating-houses. - Charges.-Sneezers "' blessed."Priests.-Free colored Men.-Great Consumption of Pork.-National Dish.Pastry and Confectionery.-Heavenly Bacon.-Francis of Penitence.-Brotherhoods akin to modern Odd Fellows.-Terms of Admission.-Advantages.-Who
this Francis was.-Garden, and Electric Eel.-Current Philosophy respecting
the Sex. Divination. -Provincial Nicknames.-Dowries in Cocoa and Coffeetrees.-Vegetable and other Sobriquets. - Horsewomen.-Officers' Wives on
Drill in Military Costume.-Morals of the Priesthood.
lfarch 1, Sunday. A  Mozambique Mercury arrived from
Senhor N        with a dispatch, stating that he, his wife, two
sons, and five daughters were on the way from Nictherohy to
spend the day with us. In half an hour they came, and presented a diversity of complexion and features that surprised
me. The youngest, a lad of fourteen, was very fair; the color
of the rest veered between cinnamon and olive.  H, to
whom I spoke on the subject, said tints so variegated and
strongly marked in one family were not common, nor yet rare;
adding, "If you want to see fair and handsome women, go
down to Rio Grande."
The hair of all, no matter how light in infancy, becomes black.
B      showed me specimens taken in early life from the heads
of his own children. Some were nearly white; all now have
raven locks.
The old vicar came, and, as usual, joined a party at cards till
dinner, after which, dancing and music till nine, when tea was
served, and then more dancing till eleven P.M. I am thus
particular to show how very differently Romanists here and
Protestants in colder climates view the Sabbath. The former
accuse the latter of making it, by stringent rules and tedious
services, the most miserable of the seven, whereas, say they, it
ought to be the pleasantest. Hence, after morning mass, social
amusements and hilarity are deemed not only innocent, but meritorious.  On this subject a lady observed to me, "God, in
making the world, worked every day till Sunday, and then he




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                    131
took his pleasure; so must we; he would be angry if we did
not. "
2d. Visited with H-. several shops in Silversmith Street.
The staple stock in all consists of amulets, jewelry, paliteiros,
spurs, and Church ornaments. Neither forks, pitchers, trays,
or tea-sets are made in Rio. One pair of spurs, with chain and
straps, weighed four pounds.  The shops are small, without
glass windows, and, with a small additional room, bring an average rent of $40 a month.
iMore or less of classical jewelry is to be found in all the Latin nations: much of it is current in Brazil. Ancient charms
and amulets, including the fga, are as common as ever they
were in Thebes, Ephesus, or Rome.  Although I had repeatedly observed the small perpendicular case hung out against the
door-post of each shop, it was not till my attention was turned
to amulets that I stopped to examine the contents. They are
very much the same from one end of the long street to the other. Besides crosses, crucifixes, crowns, palms, glories, and other little sacerdotal bijouterie, every case contains staple amulets
in gold, silver, stone, ivory, etc. In some, these constitute the
principal-in all, a prominent item. Specimens are subjoined.
(g           id~A~w. tid
$e     W                     1+   0
\81' fgA




132                   SKETCHES OF
The amulets marked a, b, c are known as the "Signs of
Solomon," and are very popular; f is another, much worn by
children; d, d are fgas-one in gold, the other cornelian.  I
have seen them of horn, bone, wood, and lead. They are decidedly the chief of amulets, being worn by all classes and all
ages, from teething infants to second childhood.  They, as well
as others, are blessed by priests before being worn;* e I suppose to be the tooth of some animal; one precisely like it was
taken by the police, with other paraphernalia, from an African
conjuror; g is of coral; the artist explained its virtues, but I
did not understand him; i represents a pair of eyes; groups of
these stare at you from every case, varying in size from those
in the illustration to two or three times as large; they are composed of thin strips of gold and silver, struck in dies; and resemble those given out at the Festival of the Protectress of
Eyes-St. Luzia.  They keep off the evil eye; k is a " Dove
Amulet;" i, I are keys of ancient form, and are quite common;
mz is a bulla within a ring; n is another form, much worn by
children; Minas and Mozambique women sport large ones, and
so do most fashionable white ladies; o is a cock's spur-also
made of brass, tin, silver, etc. In the same case was another
amulet, resembling it in form, but much larger; p and q are
rings, with locks, keys, hearts, crescents, hour-glasses, etc., suspended upon them, each having a significance of its own.
Anxious parents protect their children by a number of these
preservatives. The device is neither due to modern nor medieval ingenuity. We find it exemplified in Pharaonic necklaces, and other relics of past epochs. Images of gods, shellbeads, birds, beasts, and scores of symbols were strung round
the neck and attached to various parts of the body. The same
thing was formerly in vogue in Europe. Finger-rings decorated
in this manner are in high esteem in Brazil. They are met
wvith in most of the jewelers' shops.  Fig. h is one; a miniature
tiga, bulla, padlock, key, crescent, cockspur, &c., were attached
to the one from which the illustration was taken.'
Here are necklaces and bracelets which look like charms
* The old practice of " making the fig" to express insult or contempt is referred
to by DANTE in his Vision of Hell, Canto xxv. See also DoucE's Illustrations of
Shakspeare.




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                  133
dgainst hunger rather than against witchcraft. One of the former before me-a gold one-is made up of knives, forks, a padlock and key, a stew-pan, water-jar, plates, dishes, ewer and
basin, and twenty other culinary and domestic things. The best
work of this kind comes from Bahia. Dofia E-   has a bracelet made there, three inches wide, and divided into four compartments, in which kitchen utensils to the number at least of
fifty are arranged. All are of gold, attached to the band by loose
rings. These bracelets are in great repute in the country, and
are not entirely out of date in the cities. There are morals in
ear-pendents: an hour-glass worn at each lobe was an old European fashion. It is not out of date in Brazil. But, though
common in the interior, many city belles have a distaste for such
monitors of their fleeting charms and the flight of time. When
watches came into vogue, efforts we know were made to secure
for them the same favorable regard which the sex had accorded
to those primitive chronometers; and, strange as it may seem,
ladies then sported real ticking horologes at their ears. For the
benefit of those who have never dreamed of trinkets teaching
ethics, and are incredulous of the union of piety and fashion in
our great-grand-dams, also to do justice to the moral and mechanical ingenuity of the old jewelers, I add the following from
an old writer:
" The wit of man hath been luxuriant and wanton in the inventions of late years. Some have made watches so small and
slight that ladies hang them at their ears like pendents and
jewels. The smallness and variety of the tools that are used
about these small engines seem to me no less admirable than
the engines themselves; and there is more art and dexterity in
placing so many wheels and axles in so small a compass, than
in making clocks and greater machines; for some French watches
do not exceed the compass of a farthing."
Locks and keys were once common auricular pendents, and are
still sometimes seen. Donia L, a lady of my acquaintance,
wears the lock at the right ear, and the key at the left. Others
have both at each ear. The sentiment embodied in the device
is apparent-lock up what you hear. Thus Othello to Emilia:
"There's money for your pains;
I pray you turn the key, and keep our counsel."




134                 SKETCHES OF
Warburton, not aware that ear-jewels in these forms were
once common, makes a mistake worthy of Dogberry himself, in
attempting to elucidate the following observation of that learned
dignitary: "And also the watch heard them talk of one Deformed; they say, he wears a key in his ear, and a lock hanging by it."  On this the bishop remarks: "They heard the
conspirators satirize the Fashion: whom they took to be a man
surnamed Deformed. This the constable applies with exquisite
humor to the courtiers, in a description of one of the most fantastical fashions of that time —the men wearing rings in their
ears, and indulging a favorite lock of hair, which was brought
before and tied with ribbons, and called a love-lock."  Malone
has a note to the same effect. I am not aware that any commentator has properly explained the passage.
Keys were symbols of confidence and secresy among the ancients. They were presented by husbands to wives, and worn
on finger-rings. See Montfaucon, tom. iii., part i., book iii.,
cap. iii.
There are three or four eating-houses in Rio.  I beg the
reader's pardon for having fatigued him so long without asking
him into one. Here is a Casa de Pasto, patronized by merchants, silversmiths, and shopmen. We pass through a little
apartment in front, into a rather dark and moderate-sized one
behind. Drawing chairs to an unoccupied table, a printed bill
of fare, with prices, is laid before us.
The charges are low: for 98 cents two of us had soup, beefsteaks, boiled tongue, a ragout, pudding, and a bottle of wine.
I refused to have any thing to do with the ragout, recollecting
Santillane supping on one. I believe there was no cause to
fear fishing up such ingredients as he did, but there was no getting rid of certain impressions where so many things recalled
the adventures of the godson of Gil Perez. Besides, it was the
conscience of a Lusitanian that served up cat instead of rabbit,
and who, without owning a goat, managed to sell kids. Then
every thing that has life and substance is caught and cooked in
the interior, if not in the cities of Brazil, Levitical distinctions
between clean and unclean being wholly disregarded.
After the table was cleared we fell into conversation with two
gentlemen who had joined us. A snuff-box was passed round,




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   135
and one of the party sneezed, on which another exclaimed "Dominus tecurn"-a common salutation in such cases, and always
acknowledged with a polite inclination of the head. A priest
came in and took a seat near us; in citizens' dress, I did not
recognize him as one till he removed his hat and exposed his
tonsure.  Although Lent, he did not confine his meal to Lenten
fare. Priests are here reputed free livers. Nearly all have
families, and when seen leaving the dwellings of their wivesor females who ought to be-they invariably speak of them as
their nieces or sisters, verifying an old Peninsular device, Ida
y venida por casa de mi tia-It is my aunt's house at which
I call.
Young colored men came in, sat down without hesitation at
the same table with whites, and, on a perfect equality, took part
in the conversation.
The prominent feature in dietetics here is the enormous consumption of pork. It is used by the highest and lowest, and
used every day. And then what pork! It is all fat; at least
what lean appears is but a film-a slip of pink blotting-paper
lost in a ledger. One is surprised to find the strongest reasons
for prohibiting swine's flesh in warm climes in the East so successfully set at naught here, and under the equator itself.
European physicians of long standing here admit that it is as
wholesome in Brazil as in any part of the earth. Brazilians are
a fat and sleek people, and though the enervating influences of
the climate, and the lassitude it induces, prevent them from
working off superfluous flesh by labor, as our pig-eating farmers
and others do, their general health, and the great age to which
many arrive, corroborate the doctors' views.
The active native hog-the peccary-secretes little fat.
Pork, always held in high esteem in Europe, was particularly
so by Spaniards and Portuguese. With them and other people
it was usual to begin the Easter feast, in celebration of the expiration of Lent, not with a sirloin or rump of beef, but with a
gammon of bacon-a dish often ushered in by a laughable representation, in dough, of Lenten fare and its departure —a dried
herring on a galloping steed. The great Spanish dish is the
olla, composed of fowls, mutton, beef, and other matters, but
never without bacon; hence, "An olla without bacon is no




136                 SKETCHES OF
olla." And so with the Portuguese and Brazilians-A dinner
without toucinho is next to no dinner at all. Feija"  corn toucinho is the national dish of Brazil.
For the information of ladies, and of some future Mrs. Glass,
the names of a few popular articles of native pastry and confectionery are added. Those on the bill of fare awakened curiosity,
as well they might: Celestial Slices-fine bread soaked in milk,
and steeped in a hot compound fluid of sugar, cinnamon, and
yolks of eggs.  fother Benta's Cakes-an angelic dainty, invented by an ancient nun of the Adjuda convent; the ingredients, rice-flour, butter, sugar, grated meat of the cocoa-nut, and
orange-water. WIidows —sweet paste, thin as tissue-paper, piled
an inch thick on each other and baked. Then here are Sighs,
Lies, Angels' fair, Egg T/hreads, Weaning-pills, Young Negroes' Feet, and another, Baba de MJofa, which I shall not translate. Rosaries are eight and ten-inch rings or strings of praying-beads, by which the Credo may be acquired with incrusted
almonds, and Ave Marias counted with pellets of jujube paste.
A word on "heavenly bacon," toucinho do ceo-a species of
light pudding, composed of almond-paste, eggs, sugar, butter,
and a spoonful or two of flour-because its name reminds one
of olden times. The glorification of bacon is of very ancient
date, and arose partly from prevailing enmity to Jews, but oftener from the estimation in which it was held. The most popular and esteemed of carneous aliments, it was given as'rewards
for rural, and particularly for connubial virtues. El tocino del
Paraiso el casado no anepiso-Bacon of Paradise for the married who repent not-is a medieval proverb.
3d. Visited the Hospital of the " Third Order of St. Francis
of Penitence," in company with H-        and a brother of the
order.
Every church here, as in Lisbon, has affiliated with it a L;ay
Brotherhood, whose members are pledged to promote the interests and uphold the honor of its patron saint. They collect
alms, in their turn, through the parish (though, of late years,
this duty has been, in a great measure, transferred to the sacristans), provide candles, see to the dressings of the altar and
images, and to the decoration and illumination of the church
during festivals, receive contributions on these occasions, and




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   137
issue to the donors pictures and medals. They provide angels
for processions, walk in official costumes, and endeavor to rival
other "Irmandades" in these spectacles.  Through a board of
managers they direct all fiscal and secular affairs.
Every brotherhood is a mutual benefit society, resembling
somewhat a modern Odd Fellow's association.  From  the
" Rules of the Order of St. Francis" (a pamphlet now before
me), it appears that any respectable white Catholic can be admitted. If under thirty, the initiation fee is $25; if over forty.
$80. No annual dues nor any subsequent demand is made;
but " he who enters into the service of God and of our father.
holy Francis, must concur with all his power to the augmentation and splendor of the order." Initiation takes place in the
chapel, the altar is lit up, the candidate kneels before the officiating padre, while the image of the founder and the brethren
look reverently on.
Independent of its religious character, this institution is a noble one. It annually distributes from fifteen to twenty thousand milreis to decayed and distressed families of its members.
To give so much implies that its funds are large. It owns considerable real estate in the city, and also in the country. Numerous legacies have been left it. Rich merchants and others become members with the view of adding to its funds. Some of
the wealthy men of Rio joined it in early life when poor clerks.
When a member is sick, he can enter the hospital of the order,
or be attended at home, and when he dies his brethren bury
him.
The hospital is a spacious and pleasantly-located structure,
near the monastery of St. Anthony, to which it is in some way
allied, for the abbot is ex officio patron, and draws a stipend
from its funds. Three stories high, the lowest is, with the exception of four small and strong rooms for maniacs, devoted to
lumber and storage, being deemed, as all ground floors are, too
damp to be healthy. The second is occupied by the sick and
their attendants. The ward contains over twenty curtained
beds, with a table, chair, and writing materials to each. A neat
private bed-room, and an airy sitting one, await the convalescent.
The physician came in, and, besides the "Rules," gave some
interesting facts. None but brothers of the order are admitted.




138                 SKETCHES OF
There are fifty-three individuals at present in the institution, including officers. Of the patients, nineteen have ordinary complaints, and two are insane. Of the latter class, twelve are admitted on an average each year, and the terms of confinement
vary from four to sixteen days.
The 17th of September is the anniversary of the order, " being
the day on which the wounds of Christ were impressed on the
body of our holy patriarch." The election of the board is to
open with the vesper of the " Solemnidade das chagas de N. S.
Padre," and invocations are to be addressed " to the Holy Spirit, our Lady, and our Father Saint Francis."
This Francis, founder of one of the four companies of Begging
Friars, was an Italian devotee of the twelfth century. The son
of a respectable merchant, he, to the distress of his parents, gave
himself up to the severest austerities, excited by ambition or
religious phrensy. His townsmen considered him hopelessly insane.  His father, anxious to cure him, induced the bishop to
order him to give up all claims to the paternal estate. Nothing
loth, he went farther, and instantly stripped himself completely
naked, and offered his garments, including his shirt. In one of
his rhapsodies he had an interview with a seraph, and thence
his followers assumed the title of " the Seraphic Order."
On the upper floor are the store-rooms, pantry, kitchen, and
apartments for the menials.  In the garden, a pleasant arbor,
perpetual shrubbery and flowers, solicit the convalescent to walk
and rest. Water spouts from a brazen face into a stone cistern; and in a wooden one an electric eel, from Para, was slowly moving. Two feet long, its head is two and a half inches
over, and its body proportionally thick. Two small eyes, like
dots, appear on its head. On first touching it I felt nothing,
but attempting to grasp it I received a smart shock, and another on touching it with a pencil-case. Most of the water was
drawn out, when it was difficult to awaken its anger; the discharges were feeble; and when the whole was let out, it gave no
proof of electrical power.
Females, or " Sisters of the Order," are admitted on payment
of the same initiation fees as men. They are not received into
the hospital, but, when poor or sick, are provided for and attended at their homes.




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   139
4th. Confined within doors, I was amused with some current philosophy respecting the sex, and the influence of natal
months. New to me, it may be so to the reader. Females born
in March are commonly inquisitive; those who come crying
into the world in April, in after life shed many tears; while such
as postpone their appearance till May are oftener happy than
sad. Those whom June brings forth have an awkward gait,
and the children of July take long strides. The daughters of
August turn out chatterers, and to those who first open their
eyes on earth in September, the proverbial rebuke is commonly
applicable —" More respect, if you please, and less familiarity."
Although science may not yet be sufficiently advanced to solve
these problems, there is little difficulty in the way of explaining
another: In February, women talk less than in any other month.
Divination is as much in vogue here as it was in Europe centuries ago, especially on St. John's eve; but as it is after old
formulas, examples are not worth quoting.
A love of humor is a part of our nature, and is amusingly exemplified in the universality of national and provincial nicknames. Unlike personal burlesque, there is nothing in them to
wound individual sensibilities. The people of equatorial Brazil
are named Cocoas, from their fondness for the fruit, and eating it
with every dish. The provincials of Bahia and Pernambuco are,
however, more generally known as iianoel Cocoas, the etymology
of which is thus given: It was formerly, and still is the custom,
in making devices, settling dowries, &c., to fix the amounts in
cocoa-trees, whose current value was as well understood as coin
itself. A southern native married the daughter of a wealthy
Bahian, who promised him twenty thousand dollars for a marriage portion. The young husband reminded him of this.
"True," said he; " go into the plantation, and take the amount
in cocoa-trees."
" Cocoa-trees! Why, sir, I don't want cocoas, but what you
promised-dollars."
" Very well; every tree is worth half a dollar; go and select
forty thousand; they are the dollars I deal in, and they are
worth more than all the dirty silver ones you ever saw, or will
see."
From the prenomen and prudence of this dealer in nature's




140                 SKETCHES OF
specie, his countrymen are named Manoel Cocoas. It was hearing the term applied repeatedly that led me to ask for the explanation.
As with cocoas at the north, so it is with coffee-trees here.
A planter promises to a son or daughter a certain number of
cruzados, and they take them out in plants; the current value
of each being a cruzado, or twenty cents.  When an estate is
sold, its trees are reckoned as so many cruzados certain.
The Portuguese, who are said to have little affinity for soap
and water, call the citizens of the capital " Cariocas" and
"DlDucks," because of their fondness for ablutions. This the
Fluminenses admit, and in reply concede that their Lusitanian
brethren do wash themselves once a year-on St. John's eve,
the celebration of which is preceded by washing or bathing.
The people of the Province of Rio de Janeiro are generally
known as "Bananas," because, say the Paulistas and others,
they are soft and lazy. The stem of the banana never hardens into wood. The hale and active Rio Grandees call them
" TFomen." Weak and sickly young people are Bananas. Fops,
who must have slaves to do every thing for them, even to the
drawing on of their stockings, are thus designated. A young
lady, complaining of being unwell to an intimate, is often saluted
with, " Oh! you're a Banana."  But the appellation, applied seriously, is a gross insult.
Many persons in Rio are natives of Gibraltar, descendants of
Portuguese settled there.  They are named "BRock Scorpions,'
from the numbers of those reptiles in the neighborhood of the
fortress.  (The English at the Rock baptize the Portuguese
"Salads," and these, in return, christen their godfathers ",Herrings:" both terms from favorite relishes of the respective parties.)
Orange-trees are of rapid growth; hence, when a person becomes suddenly rich or prosperous, "he's an orange-tree."
Meeting one day a lady, handsome and (as nearly all are) embonpoint, with a small, meagre man, my companion, who knew
both, remarked, "What a shame for such a woman to be married to that pilchard!"
The inhabitants of Rio Grande-the most southern province,
bordering on Paraguay —are known as " Guascas," from the




LIFE IN, BRAZIL.                  141
thongs or narrow strips of hide they carry in their hands. The
ends of the lasso, by which they take wild cattle, consist of guasca strips. A spirited race, they resent affronts by lashing the
shoulders of offenders. Brave, hardy, and imbued with Republican principles, they have been in rebellion eleven years, and
were but recently induced to lay down their arms. Should
they continue an integral branch of the empire, they will probably exercise a controlling influence in its administration.
Rio Grande belles are expert horsewomen. Except in cities,
they use no side-saddles, but ride as the sex still rides in Asia,
and as once all rode in Europe. Twenty years ago it was common for officers' wives to accompany the troops on horseback.
They sported boots, spurs, and masculine hats, and when in
towns or at parades, mounted military caps and epaulettes, to
denote. the rank of their husbands, and consequently their own.
Old Senhora P   - made a two years' campaign thus equipped
with a regiment her husband commanded. She says the ladies
of St. Paulo and Minas provinces followed the same custom, as
well as her countrywomen of Rio Grande. My aged friend retains other camp accomplishments; oftener than once she has
sent, or rather told Pompey to go to what the Portuguese call
the Englishman's heaven-a place antipodal to the abode of the
righteous.
5th. The disappearance, sudden and inexplicable, of a young
lady espoused, with her parent's consent, to a merchant of her
own age, has for the past fortnight caused some excitement.
The police were employed, but neither they nor the friends of
the afflicted family could discover a clew to her fate. Three
days ago her distracted father attempted suicide. Last evening
information reached the city verifying the worst of fears. The
late priest of the Gloria church, having received an appointment
in another province, has been met on his way thither, and with
him the ruined girl.
I did not intend to say a word on the morals of the priests,
but hearing so much as I do daily, it is impossible to refrain.
The depth of their pollution I should not have suspected, nor
would any stranger, unless in a similar position with myself to
have his eyes opened. The following language of an enlightened native is not introduced to denounce individuals, but the




142                 SKETCHES OF
system that makes them what they are.  "The priesthood of
this country is superlatively corrupt. It is impossible for ment
to be worse, or to imagine men worse. In the churches they
appear respectable and devout, but their secret crimes have made
this city a Sodom; there are, of course, honorable exceptions.
but they are very few."  An old inhabitant of Rio, who has
neither inducement nor disposition to misrepresent the country
or its morals, added, " Every word is true, and much more than
you can well conceive."  He continued, "With country priests
concubinage is universal, and, if possible, they are worse than
the' sacred crowns' of the city!*
Another, whose authority would not be questioned if it were
prudent to give his name, observes, " They are assuredly the
most licentious and profligate part of the community. The exceptions are rare indeed. Celibacy being one of their dogmas,
you will find nearly the whole with families; and it is a substantial fact, which admits of no argument, that in their amours
they are ever partial to women of color-blacks or mulattoes."
Within a few days, a gentleman holding office under government was requested to give away a young couple about to be
married. On returning from the church, he said, in reply to inquiries, "All I know about the bride and bridegroom is, they
are both the offspring of priests;" the latter being, in fact, a
son of the Vicar of San Jos6, who is known to have a large family, and who, to his credit, does not disown it. He takes no
offense when asked how his niece and her children are.
Within the last month another priest sent out invitations to
friends to attend the funeral- of a young man who he openly
avowed was his son.  A little noise arose, but it soon blew
over.
St. Anthony's Convent was the scene of a direful tragedy. A
young woman of doubtful reputation was visited by several of
the monks, and subsequently introduced into the monastery in
one of their dresses. After some days the affair became public; the police interfered, and found her in one of the cells in a
dying condition. It is not a year since this transpired.
A current story respecting a sick lady and one of the Capu* This term, derived from the tonsure, is applied in derision to all priests and
friars.




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                     143
chins, recently brought over by the empress, I shall not relate.
The villain barely escaped the fatal vengeance of her son.
Women constitute the chief part of the Church's charge, and
they are taught to believe, and do believe, that the crimes of a
priest do not affect his efficiency as one, nor the duty of confessing to him. I have heard several native ladies maintain this.
Pedro I. cared little for monks. He made inroads into their
privileges, and under him a law was passed forbidding any more
novices to enter the monasteries. His son, brought up by monks,
has sanctioned its violation, as we have seen in the youths at
San Bento's.
In all sects and countries immoral clergymen are found, but
in Brazil evils consequent on the celibacy of the priesthood are
admitted to be general, and of the most revolting character. It
is believed that the government will be compelled eventually to
carry out the intentions of the late regent Feija6-suppress every convent, and adopt the system of the Greek Church in requiring priests, other than bishops, to marry.
CHAPTER XII.
Visit to Christoval: native Sheep.-Palace of a Peddler.-Imperial Quinta.-Rapacity of the old Queen.-Miguel.-A Viscount and his strange Employment.Emperor's Apartments.-Objects of Natural History.-Collection of Coins.Peruvian,Egyptian, and Roman Antiquities.-Laboratory.-Theatre, and Garden.
iiarch 7. This morning a carro drew up at the door, and ice
a few moments Senors R, B, and myself were whirling down the Cattete on a visit to the country palace.  Sooin
we were skirting the Bay along the Praya da Gloria; then, inclining to the left, passed through Rua das Mangueiras (street.
of leather pipes), leaving the roaring surf on the opposite hand;
dashed under the aqueduct arches into Mata-cavallos, or horsekilling avenue; turned again into another, named after sick people (Rua dos Invalidos), which terminated at a corner of the
Campo, whose area was alive with lavandeiras. Rattling through
iMlata-porcos (pig-killing street), we came to a point where the
road merged into two others, one leading to the imperial Quinta.
Groups of mules, with their skin-covered panniers filled witlh




144                     SKETCHES OF
charcoal, vegetables, and other matters for city consumption,
every now and then passed by; also a flock of sheep, longnecked, with little wool, and that hairy; but most observable
was the variety of their colors, black, white, brown, bay, etc.,
and spotted just as oxen often are with us. Handsome cottages
and country-seats occurred: one, a perfect palace, belonging to
a widow whose husband began life by peddling a few pieces of
nankeen, and at whose death she received, as her share of the
estate, six hundred thousand dollars in cash. Some half a mile
off arose the Lazaretto, with its cupola and white glistening
walls, on an eminence close to and overlooking the Bay.
We now were trotting along a road bordered with thorn and
other living fences, paved, and planted with lamp-posts, so exactly like suburban streets we had come through that I was
not aware of being on the emperor's grounds till the palace itself rose in sight. An hour's ride brought us to it. Its location is delightfully romantic, on an elevated plateau. A square
building of three stories constitutes its left wing and prominent
feature; the other wing is a story lower. Its composite character is due to its origin. The old king, in his country drives,
took a liking to the place, and was once or twice entertained by
its owner, who at length, in a fit of enthusiasm or from some
other impulse, begged his acceptance of it.  Whether this sacrifice to the first anointed head seen in the country-admitted
on all hands an unusually thick one — was ever suitably acknowledged, my informants could not say; but instances are current of members of the family sending messages to Brazilian
Naboths, and following them up with acts much in the manner
of Ahab and his lady. Among enlightened natives, the old
queen, sister to that incarnation of royalty, Ferdinand VII., is
spoken of as a Jezebel in no wise behind her Jewish prototype.*
* Of Portuguese scions of royalty, Miguel, the brother of Pedro I. and uncle to
the present emperor, equals any of the anointed carnivora of ancient or modern
times. Many are the anecdotes current of him. He used to go to the market
with profligate associates, and, among other tricks, snatch a sucking pig, swing it
aloft in the air, and receive it on his sword's point. To vary the diversion, his
companions would throw up the squeaking victims that his highness might with
less exertion flesh his weapon in them. Such was the way he gratified his taste
for blood here before he caused so much to flow in Portugal. If the jure divino
rulers of our earth do not lap blood, most of them sport with it.




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   145
Ascending a flight of stairs, we found ourselves on a corridor
running along the four sides of an open area, and communicating with the principal rooms of the edifice.  The housekeeper,
an old lady busy with her needle, took our cards to a gentleman who was walking to and fro on the corridor with a child
in his arms.  lIe came directly to us.  This was a viscount.
Left in charge of the infant prince during the absence of its parents ill Rio Grande, he has been isolated here for several
months. Ile spoke English well, lad traveled in Europe, and
was alive to "tile wonderful progress" (his own words) of the
people of the United States in national greatness.  Ile inquired
respecting the connection of the great lakes by canals, of the
states by rail-roads, and telegraphs, and rather surprised me by
asking the price of labor.  When told that ordinary mechanics
had from $1 50 to $2 50 a day, and that in some branches from
$3 to $4 were earned, he opened his eyes-wages of Brazilian
artisans and salaries of government officers being very low. I
explained that what he deemed extraordinary wages was an element of American prosperity, inasmuch as it awakened and
stimulated thousands of keen intellects to the invention of laborsaving machinery, whereas, in countries where labor costs almost nothing, there can be but little inducement to make it cost
less. On giving us in charge of an attendant, he observed that
Nature had done every thing for Brazil, but as yet man had
done next to nothing.
In the prime and vigor of life, able and accomplished, I could
not but pity him as he left us with his charge in his arms. And
is it for employments like that, I thought, for which such a man
was made?  Instead of being the head of a province, or, as chief
magistrate of the whole, unfolding the resources of the country,
and identifying himself with the progressive influences of the
age, to be acting as dry-nurse to another one's baby! But such
is the philosophy of monarchy, and men here, as in Europe, in
thus unsexing themselves, do not dream that they surpass Alcides when spinning flax among Omphale's maids.
Our cicerone led us into a passage lined with pictures of Madonnas, friars, and ghastly saints, mixed in with modern heroes
and Napoleon's battle-scenes. A small group of Indians by a
native artist was, in my view, worth all the rest. The floors of
K




146                 SKETCHES OF
a suit of three principal rooms are laid in native woods, worked into coarse mosaics-satin and rose woods preponderate.
In one apartment is a large painting of the Portuguese first
landing on the coast. A lady presenting her two sons to Alphonse, an incident well known in Lusitanian history, is the
subject of another. The conductor called my attention to a
French " Pendule Mechanique," and, winding up the spring, a
number of minikin figures danced, to his great admiration. The
side-table on which the toy stood possessed greater interest.
It was on it that Pedro I., on the 17th of April, 1831, signed
his abdication.  In consequence of his ideas of divine rights,
power was taken from him, and he was forced to leave the
country-a remarkable example, considering where it happened,
of the progress of the doctrine of popular rights.
The third apartment was the imperial bed-room, fitted up, like
the others, with French furniture. A native feature consists of
two jaguar skins spread on the floor, the tails, legs, feet, and
claws expanded, and the heads perfect and stuffed to resemble
life. These face the bedstead — guardians of its occupants.
This delightful dormitory is thirty feet above the ground, while
its folding windows open upon forests, groves, and gardens in
perpetual bloom.
The "Throne-room" is a large and dark one, and only used
by candlelight. Brazilians are tenacious of the solemn fooleries
of the Portuguese and other European court ceremonies, which
it is hardly possible to witness without feelings of contempt for
the actors; and a deeper emotion on beholding American ministers paying a humiliating homage to monarchy, which the republics of Greece would not allow their embassadors, even at
the court of Persia, to offer.  Commodore Wilkes, when here,
on his passage out, saw but a little, yet sufficient to excite his
disgust.
In the " Guard-room," a fluted column, surmounted by a wivern, occupies the centre, and round it swords and halberts are
tastefully arranged.  Several statues stand about: Diana, Pomona, a Medicean Venus, and another leaving the bath.  Here
are also two spirited statues, of polished marble, of Egyptian divinities, of the human size. The next door opened into the
chapel, a shabby affair, but soon to be superseded by a new one.




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   147
"Our Lady of Pains" stands on the altar, and St. Anthony, with
the baby, near her. Two large paintings hang on the walls:
one, St. Peter of Alcantara, the patron of Portugal; the other, a
monk in an excruciating state of mortification-more pallid and
ghastly than death itself.
At length we came to a place devoted to science, antiquities,
mineralogy, etc. Part of the room is occupied with objects of
Natural History, among which humming-birds are conspicuous,
the cases containing a male and female specimen of every known
variety.
Another department is exceedingly interesting in medals and
coins: money current in the days of Socrates, Plato, Themistocles, Aristides, Alexander, Hannibal; coins of Rhodes, Heraclea, Achaia, Ithaca, Rome, Thrace, Laconia, Macedon, Syracuse, Tarentum, etc., serving to call vividly before the mind the
great acts and actors of antiquity, through whose hands some of
these very pieces may have passed.
Native minerals and metals are largely represented and well
classified. In one case was huddled a large number of ancient
moringues, chiefly Peruvian. Most of them were ornamented in
colors or relief. See specimens in the annexed group.
ANCIENT PERUVIAN POTTERY.
The first figure at the left, on the upper row, is a fac-simile
of one recently disinterred and presented to the Hon. H. A.
Wise.  In the two spouts, one through which to fill it and the
other to drink from, it resembles the " Pitcher of Brazil," which
has been dug up, in one shape or another, in most parts of South
America.  Similarly-formed vases have also been found in the
catacombs of Rome. The next vase, if placed in a collection




148                  SKETCHES OF
of Egyptian relics, would be received as a genuine canopus, so
striking is its resemblance to some Pharaonic vessels. The
third is a long-necked bottle, moulded at opposite sides into
protruding fish-heads.  The fourth is in the form of a spheroid,
with the neck united to it by two curved tubes; a feature common in old water-flasks of 3Meridional America.  The fifth is
another, elaborately decorated with colors.  Of the second row,
the first is very like two antique Bolivian bottles engraved in
L'lbfomme Amezricain, Paris, 1839.  Of the two next, one is
figured after a bird; the other, after a man in a sitting or bent
position.  The last is a neat bottle with loops for a cord to
suspend it. A lizard has been painted on it between two bands
-(omitted by the engraver).
On a window-sill were antiques from Herculaneum and Pompeii, sent over with the empress as a present from her brother,
Bomba of Naples. All are covered with a hard green crust, of
which a little is scaled off on one vase, showing the metal underneath as smooth and polished as a modern tea-urn just finished.
At the first glance of Fig. k I took it for the one engraved in
the work on Pompeii in the Libra*   _.. ry of Entertaining Knowledge; but
~  i >...in design and ornament it is far inferior to that.  Of very plain pretensions, it probably belonged to
-:)- ( the commonest of metallic lampa                  stands.  About five feet high, the
shaft might be taken for an old inch
b /  et   E    y    copper bolt.  Its lower end is secured into a socket in the tripod by
an iron wedge-key.  Part of the
socket next to the wide end of the
key is gone, having evidently been
burst off by driving in the latter
too hard.  The whole weighs not
less than thirty pounds, being solid
throughout, but not of solid bronze; for, on turning up the feet,
I found solder (lead and tin) had been run into the centre of
each. Whether this had relation only to the better security of




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   149
the shaft to the tripod, and whether the former, like the latter,
was cast hollow, I had no means to determine.
The small lamp has nothing to distinguish it either in shape,
size, or ornament. Of very thin metal, I judged it to have been
struck up by dies, and the top soldered on.
The largest of the vases, c, is of the capacity of about four
gallons, as near as we could judge; b, two gallons; d, one; e,
three pints; and g, a quart. These are all fine specimens of ancient coppersmiths' work. The handles generally are ornamented. The one belonging to Fig. y is broken off, showing
an imperfection in the soldering. There are two vases similar
to d. On taking up Fig. a I was confident of having before
seen its portrait, but I was mistaken. The one resembling it
in its general outline, in the second volume on Pompeii, is elaborately enriched with ornament, whereas this is wholly destitute
in that respect. It will hold about a gallon. There is another,
identical in shape with it, in the Collection of Antiquities by
Count Caylus, of a capacity less than a pint. The shape seems
to have been common.  The skillet, A, has been cast complete
in one piece. It resembles, in that respect, our light hollowware, but excels it in the distribution of its metal.  While the
handle is just stout enough, the sides, which are little subject to
wear by fire or friction, are quite thin, and the bottom, which
has every thing to endure, is remarkably thick. But, not to
consume material unnecessarily, a series of grooves, close to each
other, have been cut out by a lathe on the underside. They
are nearly one eighth of an inch deep, of the same width, about
an equal distance apart, and extend from the centre to near the
circumference.  Were our copper kettles and stewpans made
thus, they would last almost forever.
The same feature is observable in the bottoms of the other
vessels; hence it was not confined to those for heating liquids.
The grooves are cut square down, leaving the edges and angles
sharp, as if the tool had just been withdrawn. The rings left
between the grooves are in some instances worked into ovolos
and astragals.
Besides the skillet figured, there is a smaller one, made as
our copper saucepans are, and, like one of them worn out-its
bottom is half separated from the sides.




150                 SKETCHES OF
The shell-formed scoop or mould, Fig. i, is of very thin metal, and of uniform thickness.  It has been struck up-just as
such things are with us, out of sheet brass and tin plate.
Our attendant, who is a Portuguese, observed that Figs. b, c,
and d were understood to be Roman measures, adding that they
were very like those used in Portugal. On returning to the
city, I had an opportunity of verifying this in the examination
of an official "aimude," the standard measure for liquids, imported from Lisbon for the government.  It is represented at f.
Its capacity is four and a quarter gallons. "Twenty-six almudes make a pipe."  By the almude the Portuguese sell all
their wines. Identical in shape, it has a feature not found in
those ancient vessels-a small hole in the side, near the brim, to
mark the full measure-a device which has this advantage: as
wine froths much in decanting, the surface of the liquid beneath
is at once ascertained when risen to its proper elevation. The
disposition of the handles in so large a vessel is a farther improvement.
The Laboratory is a room set apart for experiments in natural philosophy and chemistry. An air-pump, electro-magnet,
electrical and other apparatus, were standing about. Here, much
to his honor, the young emperor is said to spend considerable
time. He is fond of books, and all admit his private character
to be irreproachable. An adjoining room is fitted up as a theatre: the subject of the drop-scene, "The landing of the Portuguese." To the astonished natives on the foreground, a priest
holds out a cross, while frowning warriors, with spears and battle-axes, stand by him-a vivid representation of the system of
the conquerors, and of that twofold power which has all but depopulated this half of the earth, and under the influence of
which man is a blighted being in the other half.
My associates were fatigued and anxious to leave.  Past dinner-time, they quoted the popular hungry apophthegm, "An
empty sack can not stand."  After making a proper acknowledgment to our obliging cicerone, we descended a flight of some
sixty stone steps to a level with the garden, through which we
passed. Citron, cinnamon, and tamarind trees presented nothing remarkable in their appearance, but some short, thick boles,
with crowns of pendent feathers, were interesting; they were




LIFE  IN BRAZIL.                      151
sago-trees. Up the face of a low wall, over and down its other
side, lizards, from three to eight inches long, darted quick almost as the lightning's flash.
We passed an oblong pond or lake-a small but handsome
sheet of water.  Vases and statues alternate along its sides.
Near one end is a square cistern in the ground-the prison of
an electric eel.  On reaching the opposite end of the lake, two
negro women were knee deep in it washing, and within five feet
of them two black men, perfectly nude, engaged in the same
operation.
CHAPTER XIII.
Poor Anthony robbed.-Ex Votos.-Their Manufacture.-Humming-bird and Bouquet.-Affronted Image and wicked Painter.-His Punishment, and Process of
"disaffronting" the Image.-Imperial Chapel and its Shrines.-Turk's Head.Barefooted Friars.-Estagio de S&.-Slab over him.-Chief of the Capuchins.
-Virgin's Shoe-sole.-Architectural Remains.-Ajuda Convent.-Dumb Waiter.-Glimpse into the Interior.-Vestals.-Nuns in the Ajuda, and their Treatment.
larch 10. Walked to town early with a special object.  In
passing through Rua dos Invalidos, I hoped to get a view of
the interior of the little old church of Antonio dos Pobres, as it
is opened in mornings during Lent, but I was too late.  Except
his effigies on his alms-box, I have not yet seen this patron of
mendicants. The founder of the church sold all he had to build
it, including his own children by his slaves. He was nicknamed Pactnelc, from having been a dealer in crockery.  Two
years ago the church was robbed of its plate and some gems on
the image. The witty thief added sarcasm to sacrilege. He
took from the head of Anthony a " splendore," and put in its
place an old straw hat, with a label attached, signifying that
those who beg should not wear jewels.  Next morning the sacristan was electrified on beholding the metamorphosis of the
saint, and wondered still more on finding him perusing a slip
of paper in his hands, on which was written
Q uern /ie Pobre ndo tern vicios'
a proverbial sentence, implying that the indigent have not the
means to commit current follies, and that their exemplar should




152                 SKETCHES OF
not sport silver and gold.  The moral burglar was not discovered.
Passed on to and entered the Paula Church, now undergoing
extensive renovations.  Surely nothing can disturb Rio worshipers: here are individuals, male and female, on their knees,
praying alongside of busy masons, carpenters, painters, glaziers,
and upholsterers, amid planks, ladders, mortar, paints, webs of
gimp, and I know not what, while spectators like myself lounge
about, and master tradesmen, with unsuppressed voices, give
their orders.
But none of these things brought me here. I have been repeatedly told that in every church more or less votive offerings
for miraculous cures are to be seen, and as often I have replied
that I could find none. Last evening I learned that, though
formerly suspended about the altars, they are now almost invariably confined to vestries and side passages.  Here is an inner
door through which lay brothers occasionally pass; let us cross
its threshold, and get, if possible, a glimpse of one of the most
singular sights in ancient temples. A few steps, and we are
in a wide and high passage. The walls are white-washed, and
broken into compartments by pilasters, and suspended between
these are the very things we are in search of. They are not exactly what I expected, but who that has read of classical Ex
VOTOS would not be pleased to look on modern copies?
Some ten feet from the floor long strips of wood extend, and
from them the offerings are suspended by twine and ribbons.
Here are forty-nine votive tablets, each recording the name of
the devotee who dedicated it, the complaint which had prostrated
him, and the saint who had restored him to health.  They are
little painted boards, averaging eight inches in length and five
in width, cut into every fanciful form. MlIany have gilt borders,
and on most the inscriptions are in gold letters; some are half
of one color and half of another.  Taken altogether, the diversity of tints reminds one of calico manufacturers' pattern cards.
A few appear of recent date, but the greater part are old. On
some a face is drawn, to indicate the location of the disease. Sixteen have bed-chambers portrayed, and the sick languishing on
couches. In several of them St. Francis appears in a cloud in
a corner of the room, telling his suffering friends what to do. In




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   153
others, beatified monks and nuns peep through holes in the ceilings and dictate prescriptions, the writing beneath declaring that
their heavenly physicians appeared thus visibly, and viva voce
delivered their advice. To transcribe the inscriptions would be
to copy the language on similar tablets in the temples of Egypt.
Syria, Greece, and old Rome. Each one begins with "Mgilagre'
or "ililaygroso."  Some record deliverances from shipwreck.
Pious pagans did not confine themselves to written acknowledgments of the interposition of medical divinities, but hung up
in their temples figures in bronze, wood, etc., of the diseased
members.  So it is here.  hIeads, hands, arcms, feet, legs, etc.,
of natural dimensions, but moulded in wax, mingle with the
tablets.  Here are five hands, three feet, two legs, four arms,
as many heads, a female's breasts, a pair of eyes, jaws, and
parts which I can't make out. On two of the hands are wens,
an excrescence on the breast, and some of the feet are distorted.
None of these are colored. A couple have recently been put
up, the wax being clean, and the light blue ribbon by which
they are suspended quite fresh. The rest are brown with age
and dust.
T- lX      e - — IL — I-.._
EX VOTOS IN THE PAULA CHURCH.
After I had contemplated them a little, a gentleman came
out of the vestry, and walked to and fro, watching my movements. I thought he was displeased, but perhaps he was not.
The objects were too interesting to be abandoned.
Offering to gods metallic and other representations of evils
from which the parties were freed is of extreme antiquity.  The
earliest example on record is a remarkable one. 1 Sam., vi., 4.
Tavernier observes of India, " When a pilgrim goes to a pagod
for the cure of disease, he takes with him a figure of the mem



154                 SKETCHES OF
ber affected, made of gold, silver, or copper, and offers it to his
god."  See also Montfaucon, tome ii., for ex votos in temples
-some to Neptune for safe voyages, to Serapis for health, Juno
Lucina for children and happy deliveries, pictures of sick patients in bed, and eyes, heads, legs, limbs, and tablets without
number to Esculapius and other popular medical saints among
the heathen.
On leaving, a friend went with me to a wax-chandler's store,
where I found, in addition to members just named, abdomens,
breasts single and in pairs, thighs, hearts, cheeks, toes, kneejoints, and faces, all of full size, but hollow and extremely light.
Here were babies, also, from ten to fourteen inches high. The
proprietor told us there were twenty-one chandlers in Rio, but
only seven that fabricated these things, and that the demand
for them in the interior is considerable. They are formed in
plaster moulds, and constitute a regular branch of business.
Pointing to specimens on the counter, I inquired the price.
" That," said he, " depends on circumstances: we have no fixed
charge." He was assorting large candles, such as are used at
funerals and in churches. They are sold at 54 cents per pound.
Smaller, for family use, 60 cents.
I1th. T's birth-day, and celebrated in Brazilian fashion.
In the morning complimentary notes and presents poured in.
One bouquet contained a thousand floral beauties. Another
came from Miss L, of the Larangeiras, and to it was attached by a thread what the Indians call a sunbeam!-a guanunbi-in other words, a golden-breasted humming-bird. The
little flutterer soon after escaped and darted back to its native
groves.
12th. A red curtain in the doorway of the church of the Tilitary Order in Dereita Street intimated that the place was open.
The front of this. structure is low, and of rather elaborate design. There is some good carving on the heavy door, and two
statues occupy niches above it. The narrow sidewalk in front
was crowded with colored women and their baskets of fruit; and
near them were the most horribly decrepit beggars I ever saw;
some pushing out arms, and others legs, from which the fingers
and toes had dropped away by disease.
As persons kept going in and out, I pushed aside the screen




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                  155
and entered. Besides the main one, here are only two side
shrines. The image over one of these is the Virgin, in what
character I could not make out, nor who the presiding genius
of the other was. No priest was visible. From fifteen to
twenty men, women, and boys were within, and most of them
in front of the left-hand altar, the panel of which was removed,
and exposed an image of a dead Christ, the head, hands, and
feet marked with gore.  Worshipers were kissing it. While
one crept up, another knelt behind him to be ready, and in this
way ladies and gentlemen, negroes and negras, succeeded each
other. Every one contributed something to swell a pile of coppers and milreis bills on an immense salver. It is said that
ladies will not kiss an image after a negro; I saw three do it
here.
This image has acquired great notoriety. Almost every one
goes to see it. At one time it was called the "Insulted" or
"Affronted;" it is now known as the " Disaffronted Image."
Some time ago the interior of the church was undergoing repairs and a refitting. The images were removed to the vestry
to be painted. Several workmen were employed on them, and
one, a Portuguese from the Azores, subject to epilepsy. Among
topics of conversation, the daily one of lotteries came up. Every person gambles in them, and this man was asked by his
companions if he had bought a ticket in one then about to be
drawn.  He said he had not; it was of no use; he had purchased many, and got nothing but blanks. " If it had not been
for this (using an opprobrious term, and pointing to an image he
was painting), who had a spite against him, he would have drawn
a prize in the last." In the course of the day, though some say
it was not till a subsequent one, he had a fit; the priests heard
of his blasphemy; it became noised abroad with additions; the
city was in uproar, and crowds of devotees rushed from all directions to punish the blasphemer.  Fortunately for him, some
prudent persons got him on board of a small vessel in the Bay,
or he would have been torn in pieces.  It was said he had not
only reviled one sacred image, but had stuck his cigar in the
mouth of another.
The bishop and clergy took up the affair, and formally excommunicated the offender.  He was arrested, and, to escape




156                 SKETCHES OF
punishment, readily consented to make every concession. Preparations were made, and a day appointed for his penance. This
took place, and the public mind, awakened to the subject, was
not allowed to forget it.  Sermons were preached; pamphlets,
with portraits of the image and its reviler, circulated; and the
wonderful manifestation of the wrath of Heaven against the despisers of holy images set forth.  The feelings of the superstitiously devout were excited. They flocked to do homage to
the abused image; contributions poured in; and a colonel in the
army, named Castro, took the insult so much to heart, that he
presented to the brotherhood two government bonds of a thousand milreis each toward founding a perpetual mass, to be celebrated every Friday before and in honor of the injured image.
The contributions on the dish this morning evince that the
excitement is not over, nor are efforts wanting to keep it up.
Like other associations, the brotherhood and board of managers
know the value of newspaper notices. A few days ago the following appeared in the Jornal do Cornmercio:
"Depois do dia 29 de julho do anno passado, em que o infeliz
Augusto Frederico Correa, apoderado do espirito vertiginoso de
impiedade, blasfemou e ridicularisou a sagrada imagem de Nosso Senhor Jesus Christo, da igreja da Cruz, foi pela imperial
irmandade dos militates e louvaveis membros da mesa, corn
mais fervor animada a adoragao da mesma Imagem, estabelecendo a missa do desaggravo em todas as sextas feiras. A mesa
actual, nao menos zelosa e religiosa, nada tem esquecido para
com todo o asseio, respeito e solemnidade continuar com esse
Santo Sacrificio da 3Missa, que attrahe cada vez maior numero
de devotos.
"Este proceder da mesa e da imperial irmandade nao p6de
ser indifferente a um catholico que reconhece os importantes serviyos daquella irmandade, fazendo respeitar a Religiao, e transmittir aos nossos vindouros pela missa semanal a historia do
desacato feito i Sagrada Imagem.
"Estas poucas linhas sejao aceitas pela irmandade, como tributo de gratidao e respeito que lhe consagra.  UM DEVOTO."
" On the 29th of July of last year, the unhappy Augustus
Frederick Correa, instigated by a demon of impiety, ridiculed and
blasphemed the sacred image of our Lord Jesus Christ of the




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   157
Church of the Cross, upon which the Imperial Brotherhood of
the Mlilitary and the worthy members of the board established
a mass, to be celebrated every Friday, for the purpose of disaffronting the image, and to animate the pious to adore it with
increased fervor. The present board, not less zealous than their
predecessors, have neglected nothing calculated to add to the
respect and solemnity of the holy sacrifice of the mass, and to
attract a large number of devotees.
"' These proceedings of the Board of the Imperial BIrotherhood can not be indifferent to Catholics familiar with the important service of the brotherhood in inducing respect for religion, and transmitting to our descendants by this weekly mass
the history of the insult offered to the sacred image.
"' These few lines will be accepted by the brotherhood as a
tribute of gratitude and respect which have consecrated to them
"' A DEVOTEE."
A rich contributor has, with a view still farther to " redress
the wrong" inflicted by the painter, had a handsome lithograph
executed of the altar and "the Disaffronted Lord" prostrate
within it. I am indebted to the politeness of the artists for a
copy.
Desirous of seeing an official account of the affair, the Jornal of August 13, 1845, was put into my hands, and from it the
following extract is taken:
" On the evening of the 29th ultimo, a painter, named Augustus Frederick de Almeida, aged 23, and born in the Azores, was
employed in the Church of the Holy Cross of the Military.
While at work with other artists in the consistory, he, possessed by the devil, blasphemed an image of the Lord Jesus Christ,
nor desisted when reprimanded by his companions. As soon
as he left the consistory to work at the altar of our Lady of
Pains in the Church, a horrible shriek was heard, and he was
seen falling to the ground. He struggled violently, and lost
the use of his speech, which he did not recover for three days.
"Yesterday, at 10 A.M., his excellency the bishop, Count
of Iraja, etc., accompanied by the clergy of the parish, went to
disabuse the holy image of the insult offered it at the very place
where the crime was committed. The clergy of the Candelaria,
with the Imperial Brotherhood of the Military, were also in at



158                  SKETCHES OF
tendance, and in their presence the image was uncovered and
exposed to public veneration.
"The Canon Moreria, master of ceremonies to the throne,
read a pastoral letter of the count bishop, in which were narrated
all the particulars relating to the insult, and wherein his excellency speaks largely of the worship (culto) of images, and elucidates the practice from ancient custom. The unhappy delinquent, with a most contrite countenance, then made a public
confession of his guilt, and was absolved by his excellency from
the penalties he had incurred. He made his profession of faith,
and recited the Apostles' Creed, and after it an article upon the
worship of images, according to the Piana faith.  The Liturgy
of the Saints was chanted by the clergy, and the whole concluded with the oration Pro Excelsia.
" Then followed the adoration of the sacred image, every person present prostrating himself before it and kissing it. The
concourse of people was very great. The church and consistory could not contain the faithful who crowded to the ceremony. During the day great numbers rushed to' adore the image of the Lord.'"
As the door of the Imperial Chapel on the opposite side of
the street was open, I crossed over and entered.  I had been in
before.  Externally, the old structure is inferior to its nextdoor neighbor, the Carmo Church, being built of rough stone like
common stores, and plastered; but within, it is rich in carvings,
and showy as paint and gold-leaf can make it. The official
fane of the court, a wooden statue of St. Sebastian, protector
of the empire, stands conspicuously over the high altar. His
naked body is covered with bleeding wounds left by the arrows.
Below, and alternating with the altar candlesticks, are small figures (30 inches) of the apostles, most of whom have halos —silver wires springing from and returning in circles to their heads.
A coat of arnzs is wrought on the pedestal of each.
On the floor stand the usual chancel candlesticks. They
have plain cylindrical shafts, and square bases, being the plainest-looking things of the kind in Rio, and the only silver ones.
I had been told they were of solid metal, but I had ocular proof
that they are of the same material as the equally large and more
tastefully-designed golden ones of other churches-solid wood.




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   159
Belonging to the state chapel, and the only specimens coated
with silver leaf, they have acquired the reputation of being all
prata.
Six subsidiary altars, furnished with appropriate appendages,
are in the body of the building. Each has its presiding genius:
The Baptist, San Jose, St. John Nepomuceno, St. Anne, and
our Lady of the Head, every one of whom holds a festival here
once a year, and receives petitions every day. As it would be
a slight to the Portuguese hero, the "Padroeiro de todo O Imperio do Brazil," to refuse him a shrine in the national temple,
accommodations have been made for San Pedro d'Alcantara in
a large recess within the chancel, where, on the 19th of October,
he holds his annual levee.
Across the entrance end of the church is a small music gallery, where is also an old organ, and connected to it is a Turk's
head projecting from the front of the gallery.  By some mechanism, when the music plays the eyes of the whiskered and
mustached infidel roll in ecstasy.
13th. Called on H:, who asked if I had seen the barefooted friars.  I had not.  "Come along, then;" and off we
started for Castle Hill. There are two ridges on this eminence,
both occupied at an early period by the Church. On one is the
old Jesuits' Chapel and some splendid remains of the cathedral
begun by them. On the other is the homely little fane of St.
Sebastian.  Long neglected, it has, through the influence of the
empress, been recently granted to a troupe of Capuchins, her
countrymen, whom we are on the way to visit.
Gasping and panting, we climb the zigzag path, and, when
two thirds up, to cut off a long sweep, dash up a precipitous
bank and land upon the green summit. Close by the little
whitewashed temple a large and massive structure is going up,
part of the erections contemplated for this central establishment
of Capuchin missions in Brazil, for such it is avowed to be.
"Who finds the money?" I inquired.  "The government has
granted the friars a lottery by which to raise it."*
An ancient marble post stands three feet out of the ground
near one corner of the church.  Its date, if it had any, has be* For this fact, see Report of the Minister of Justice to the Legislature, May,
1846, p. 31, 32.




160                  SKETCHES OF
C:ome obliterated.  On one of its four sides a cross of Malta,
and on another the arms of Portugal are about to disappear.
WTe stepped within, ahd found three friars reading to themselves
within the altar rails. Outside, eight elderly men and women
were seated on benches -the first seats I have seen on the floor
of a church here.  In this little space were no less than five
shrines, each with its presiding divinity-Sebastian, Veronica,
another female whose name I did not learn, but at her feet and
side was quite an assortment of heads, necks, hands, feet, eyes,
jaws, breasts, and kincired Specimens of wax chandlery.  At
one shrine are thirty-inch figures of the Virgin and child: King
David is taking off his crown to the latter; and the three Magi,
one of whom is a negro, are malking their offerings and salaams.
Here hang a cereous arm, and a hand without fingers.  The
other shrines are little more than old-fashioned tables placed
beneath ancient dolls.
A couple of " confessionals" stand by the box pulpit. They
resemble large invalid chairs, with broad sides carried up as high
as the high backs. Into each side is let a sheet of tin, painted
yellow and perforated with small holes, through which a penitent breathes her shortcomings and the friar whispers penance.
In this class of chairs a priest occasionally shrives two at once
by inclining the right ear to one strainer and the left to the
other.
Lithographic saints hang on the walls along with old portraits
in oil of St. Bernard and other Capuchin worthies. Alms-boxes
solicit contributions.  On the back of one is a miniature of
"Noossa Senhora da Paz."
-We fortunately met here Senhor Barboza, a gentleman connected with the State Department, and, as far as I could learn,
the only antiquary in IRio.  On the church floor are ancient
monumental slabs.  One with shield, helmet, and crossed arms
lies within the chancel, and is of historical value.  WMith some
difficulty we made out the inscription: "Aqui jaz Esta9io de
Sa 1o Cassm. i Conquistador d'isla, terra i Cidade.  LEa campa
mandou fazer Salvador Corra de Sa seu primo i 20 Cass. Govorr.
Capella achabou un..... 1583."  A few
words in my 31S. are illegible, but they are unimportant. The
sense is complete.  " Here lies Esta9io de Sd, first captain-gen



LIFE IN BRAZIL.                  161
eral and conqueror of the isle of Villegagnon, land and city.
This tomb was erected by Salvador Correa de Sa, his cousin,
and second captain-governor.  This chapel was finished in
1583."
As the occupant of the tomb died sixteen years before the
church was built, a note may here be added, taken substantially from a popular abridgment of the history of the country, recently published in Rio:
"Estagio de Sa, nephew of Mendo de Sa, governor-general
of Brazil, was sent out by the Queen-regent of Portugal in 1564,
with orders to his uncle to assist him with forces to expel the
French at Rio. In the following year Esta9io came down from
Bahia with the required assistance, landed near the Sugar-loaf,
and was defeated.  He sent for farther aid to his uncle, who
placed a squadron under the command of Christopher de Barros, joined it himself, and arrived at Esta9io's camp on the
18th of January, 1567. They put off the attack till the 20th,
St. Sebastian's day, and then attacked the French, slew the
whole of their Indian allies, the Tamoyoes, took the fort Uracumini, and afterward Fort Coligny and island of Villegagnon.
In the attack Esta9io received an arrow in his face, which
caused his death a month after. His cousin, Salvador Correa
de Sa, second in command, and named by the queen his successor in case of his demise, then drew up a plan and laid out a
city on the edge of the Bay, naming it after the saint on whose
anniversary they had recovered the place. The French thus
expelled went to Pernambuco, but not succeeding in making a
landing, returned to Europe.
"Estaqio was buried on the beach, and his remains were subsequently removed by his cousin to their present resting-place."
While stooping and turning about to decipher and copy the
inscription, I forgot Sebastian and Veronica.  Senhor B —
requested H  I-I    to remind me of the impropriety of turning
my back on them, and to beg that I would keep at least one
cheek toward them while tracing the letters.
Every body seemed to go into the vestry, and we followed.
The great attraction was the chief of the Capuchins.  He was
engaged at a chest of drawers, selecting fresh linen for the
shrines and images, opening first one drawer and then another,
L




162                 SKETCHES OF
till he got a piece to suit. He then shook it out before him,
took it to a shrine, and came back for another, making a leg to
the altar as he passed in and out. A score or more of both
sexes came in, and almost every one went up and snatched his
hand and kissed it, or, rather, his wrist-joint, for that is the part
saluted, the owner facilitating the operation by bending the
hand inward.
Between thirty-five and forty, there were few of the elements
of comeliness in him to make ladies dote upon his person: a
wedge and freckled face, small, keen, and restless gray eyes, a
thick and reddish beard that spread like furze up to his ears.
He wears no body-linen, but is clothed in a russet gown tied
round his middle. At his left side swings two feet of knotted
cord, and at the right a string of rough beads. His gown has
no collar, leaving his tanned neck exposed, while the opening in
front shows his hairy breast.  The cowl hangs down his back,
its peak reaching to the cord round his waist. No stockings,
of course, but his fect are pushed into tamancos —wooden-soled
slippers-in which he shuffles about, showing his bare heels
wherever he moves. As he is dressed, so are his associates.
Among the treasures on the vestry walls brought over by
the Capuchins was one that, from its insignificant appearance,
arrested my attention, as well as from the fact that almost every person who came in went up and kissed it.  A little black
picture-frame, with a piece of glass in front, was the rough casket of the precious relic, namely, " An exact outline of the Virgin's shoe-sole," which fell from heaven near Padua in 1543.
The particulars, in fine writing, are given within the contour.
Clement VII. or VIII., and another pope, are quoted as verifying the particulars. The shape is not over
handsome  see the cut-if it had reference to
that of the wearer's foot.  The length is 7,
inches, and breadth from 21 to 3. Many Brazilian ladies have smaller shoes.  One of the
men who kissed it told us the fathers have recently received from Rome some very holy and
miraculous images, which will soon be exposed
to the pious........ On the other spur of Castle Hill is the old




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   163
Jesuits' chapel. The date of its erection is over the door" 1567." Though quite small, it has four altars. Loyola, in
full stature, occupies the chief one; Francis Borgia and Xavier
stand by him. Every thing looks worn and faded. Capitals,
friezes, cornices, pilasters, etc., of cut stone, lie about the place
-unused portions of materials for structures begun before the
expulsion of the order in 1753. The entire grounds and property are now in the possession of the government, appropriated
to an observatory, telegraph, and other public institutions.
AJUDA NUNNERY.
On reaching the foot of the hill, we observed, on the opposite
side of the street, one of the heavy doors of the Ajuda Convent
open, and stepped into a paved area around which the dark
walls arise. Of the two tiers of windows, the lowest is fifteen
feet from the ground, and all inclosed with massive gratings that
remind one of the condemned cells of Newgate. At the side
farthest from the street is the apparatus by which persons without communicate with the interior.  I had read of the ancient
device. A rectangular opening, about four feet high and two
and a half wide, is cut through the thick wall, the upright edges
being worked concave. A strong wooden cylinder or drum is
made to revolve vertically in the opening, and to occupy it wholly.  Suppose the staves of the cylinder be removed for one
third of its circumference, you have then a revolving cupboard,
into which any article put in at one side of the wall is instantly received at the other on simply pushing round the opening,
and without either sender or receiver having a chance to get a
glimpse of each other. The sides of the drum enter the concave sides of the wall, and its bottom and top extend within
the stone-work. The width of the opening into the drum is
only half the thickness of the wall, so that in no position of
the drum can a spectator see any one within.
While we stood by, a negro brought a parcel, put it in the
closet, clapped his hands as a signal, and turned the dumb waiter half way round. Thus money, letters, food, and all articles
required are passed within. If sweetmeats have been ordered
by friends or visitors, the price is put on the shelf, and the next
moment the bon-bons come out.




164                 SKETCHES OF
We strolled to the farther extremity of the same side of the
square, where there was a similar machine, and near it a strong
door with a small brass plate, full of minute holes, through
which the invisible abbess, or her deputies, can see who stands
without. Casually touching this door, it yielded to slight pressure. Here was a temptation to step into a nunnery, for none
but our two selves were within the spacious area. To have
some color for pushing the hinged valve back, one of us gently
knocked. No one answered, but some object behind moderately opposed its being opened. By little and little the opening
was enlarged, and our courage with it. We squeezed in, when
my companion, in a whisper, said, "This is the office of the
portress. She has left for a moment, and, not dreaming of intruders, placed her old high-backed chair against the door.
She'll return anon, and give the alarm if she find us here."
But the way into the interior was not so clear as we imagined; still, we got a view of the machinery adopted in such
places to prevent intrusion and desertion. The small apartment
opened into a large, long, and, verily, a strong one. A paved
floor, high whitewashed walls, with nothing to break their monotony or let in light, that we coulcd see, save a single opening,
eight feet square, and level with the ground. This communicated with a wide and dim passage into which we could not get;
-for there was no entering the large opening in front of which we
stood. The stone wall through which it is cut is four feet thick,
and on each side hangs a gauze curtain whose threads are inch
bars of iron: those forming the woof pass through loops in the
warp, and the ends of all are buried in the granite blocks. The
interstitial spaces are between three and four inches. A rather
larger aperture is at the bottom, and through it small things are
passed across on the blade of a wooden shovel, as appeared from
one lying ready for the purpose.
If, as is said, nuns are happy in their cells, for what purpose
then, in lands were law prevails, are these massive walls,
gratings, bolts, locks, and other devices? Even shackles, it is
admitted, are not wanting in this place. No felon-prison can
have a better system of securities.  What alliance can there be
between the gentle, willing spirit of the Gospel and so much
iron? Penal statutes suffice to prevent people from breaking




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                    165
in; what need of such devices, if not designed to keep those confined from breaking out? These thoughts I addressed to my
companion, who said I might stay till the door-keeper returned,
and ask her!  In two minutes more we were in the street.
Through what passage she had disappeared, after blocking her
door, we could not imagine.
This was the first and last time I got into a nunnery. Into
the chapel fronting the street I often stepped.
There is no entering ecclesiastical institutions here without
being reminded of their heathen originals, and of the little change
they have undergone. Every popular phase of ancient worship
was early adopted. Rituals of the temples, and the temples
themselves; the different orders of priests, and their imposing
costumes; the entire system of symbolism; of praying through
the medium of images and other physical representations; praying for the dead, and to the dead. The various religious orders,
too, including mendicant and monastic, are of pagan parentage,
with all their peculiarities of dress and discipline-their shaven
crowns, knotted cords, relies, rosaries, and squalor.
The institution of Vestals was reverenced at Rome. Numa,
the consuls, and the emperors patronized them; the rich made
presents, the pious bequeathed legacies, and the superstitious
sought admission for their daughters. Commanding general
respect, they were introduced, under Christian appellations, into
the Church. Substituting the Virgin for Vesta, the old rules,
penalties, peculiarities, etc., seem to have been received without
material revision, and also the plans, arrangements, securities,
general economy, and management of the nunneries.
The cloistered virgins of the Ajuda pass their lives in much
the same way as their sisters of antiquity: separated from the
world, from parental and family influence, dedicated to a goddess
" Nossa Senhora da Ajuda," donning a particular habit, their
initiation accompanied by cutting off their hair, vowing chastity, and subject to death for its violation, strictly secluded, extraordinary means employed to prevent their communicating
without the walls that inclose them, under the surveillance of
a matron and a system of espionage that sifts out their very
thoughts, subject to the control and punishment of the bishop,
no male persons allowed to visit them except those interested




166                 SKETCHES OF
in retaining them, and permitted to hold free converse with
none else.
The Pontifex Maximus chastised pagan nuns for offenses, and
his modern representative does the same thing.  If Christian
nuns are not now put to death for violating their vows, they
once were, and, but for the increasing intelligence of the age,
would undoubtedly be again.
The inmates of nunneries, it is asserted, " are happy" —" even
those who enter reluctantly become reconciled, and content."
Here are a few Rio facts in illustration:
1. H     told me he was acquainted with four sisters, all of
whom were forced by one or both parents into the Tereza Convent. Years elapsed, and the father died, when three, all that
were alive, by appealing to the Pope, eventually got out.
2. A merchant, whom he also knew well, took an only daughter out one day a visiting. The carriage stopped at the Ajuda
Convent. The young lady tripped up the three or four outer
steps without observing the place, the doors closed on her, and
her parent drove off.  She had refused a husband selected for
her, and was immured two years before she yielded her consent
and was let out.
3. A poor woman, with a slight peculiarity of manner, is occasionally seen in the Cattete. She passed the window twice
yesterday.  " Sister Paula" and her melancholy history are
known to many families in the Gloria parish.
Of respectable lineage, she was born and brought up in thile
country. Amiable and intelligent, she unfortunately became
rich in her own right on the death of her mother. Her father
and brothers coveted her wealth, and found means to gain over
the abbess of the Ajuda. A chest, perforated to admit air, was
provided by the unnatural villains, and in it the poor victim was
hurried from her residence (some leagues distant from Rio) to
the convent. She resisted all attempts made to force her to take
the veil, and in a long course of years managed to escape three
times, but implored in vain, with a heart bursting with anguish,
for mercy from her kindred. The last time it was her brothers
who drove her back, the father being dead. Nature at length
gave way.  The punishments to which on these occasions she
was subjected-chastisement, want of food, shackles, and other




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   167
tortures, known only to the fiends that inflicted them, broke
her down. Reason fled, and she became irrevocably insane.
Her persecutors took undisturbed possession of her property;
and some, it is said, still enjoy it-if, indeed, they ca~n enjoy it
or any thing else.  Of her they know nothing.  A nun has
neither worldly relations nor wealth. Every thing, even her
name, is taken from her, and all natural ties are forever sundered.
The abbess permitted her —imprudently, as many think-to
go at large. She is over fifty. Her disease is of a mild type.
For several years she has made out, by charity and her needle,
to hire a room and buy the little food she wants. She constructs
wax and feather flowers, makes " baby saints," and assists in
dressing images for the festivals. Dwelling near the Lapa
Church, she is employed every Christmas to fit up in it "the
Cradle and the Baby God." All churches have, at that season,
an exhibition of this kind.  Most have new bedclothes and
dresses, but some have the old ones furbished up and used
again.  Sister Paula sometimes quarrels with the brotherhood,
and loses an order " to dress Our Lady and her Son." At lucid
intervals she will speak with a few confidential friends of the inhuman treatment of her brothers and the abbess. At other
times she says an evil spirit possesses her-" one too strong for
the fiiars of St. Anthony to drive out."  Poor lady! she is right.
Hers is a wounded spirit, which requires a higher power than
that of any dead or li;'inS saint to lheal.
4. Senhor L     a, of the Larangeiras, ex-councilor of state,
has an aged relative in the Ajuda Convent, a first cousin to his
mother.  She has at present charge of the garden, which is as
much concealed from the public as the interior of the building.
Having been abbess, she is known as Mnother Anne Tereza.
This venerable lady was in her youth one of the handsomest
girls of Rio. She formed an attachment which her father did
not approve of, although her lover was every way worthy of her.
By the influence of her parents he was shipped off to India, and
she carried directly to an endless imprisonment in the awful
Ajuda.  Distracted beyond endurance, for months horror and
despair preyed on her: she was tempted to end her miseries by
suicide.  A year passed over-another, and others, till her soul,




168                 SKETCHES OF
crushed by griefs, yielded to her fate. Urged to take the veil, she
consented; but, ere the ceremonies were quite over, she awoke
as from a lethargy artificially produced, and burst into such a
torrent of abuse of her parents and family, who were witnessing
the rite, the abbess, convent, and the whole system of ecclesiastical fraud and tyranny, that for a moment all stood aghast. And
but for a moment! It was evident she was possessed! Under
this belief she was gagged, borne off to her cell, confined by cords,
and punished no one living knows how but herself.
Time, that subdues all things, at last tamed her. Forever
excluded from the world, and without a friend, relative, or acquaintance in it-to her all was lost-she consented to live and
adapt herself to her hard lot. She became a favorite, and was
twice elected abbess, which office she has filled for eight years
(an election takes place every four years). Let us hope that the
victims sent in under her administration were differently treated
than she had been.
It must not be supposed that the law could interfere. No
civil officer could (nor can) enter a convent to serve process
there; and under the old regime, a father had unlimited power
over his daughters. The only redress was: 1. Through the
bishop; but while the abbess was in collusion with parents, the
victim might wear her fingers to the bone in writing petitions
before one could reach him.  Not a scrap can enter or pass out
without her consent. 2. The bishop had to appeal to Lisbon;
and, 3. Through the ecclesiastical authorities there, the court
at Rome had to be consulted.
In the second volume of " Transactions of the Geographical
and Historical Institute of Brazil" is a notice of Don Francisco
de San Jeronimo, the founder of this convent. A holy man, he
wrought miracles; two are cited: When coming over from Lisbon the ship took fire; he prayed to God and Our Lady, and instantly the flames went out. A favorite servant became diseased in his legs, and, after trying several methods of cure, the
doctors proposed amputation. On hearing this, the saint prayed over the sickly members, and they became sound ere 1:e rose
from his knees.




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                    169
CHAPTER XIV.
Candelaria Church.-Jacks of the Clock.-Peccary.-God's Stepfather..-Botanic
Garden.-Snake.-Fences.-Dinner and its Cost.-Catalogue of Plants in the
Garden.
farch 16. Among the first objects which attract the eye on
entering Rio Bay is a couple of light and handsome turrets,
surmounted with glittering domes resembling inverted pearspinnacles of "The Candelaria" Church.  These turrets command an extended prospect, and to the top of one of them I ascended with some friends to-day.  Here we contemplated the
dingy red roofs beneath us, and the narrow threads of streets
still lower down-the silver Bay, its shipping, verdant isles, and
mountain boundaries, particularly the organ peaks at its head,
shooting up in the blue ether in fantastic pinnacles, ranging
from three to seven or eight thousand feet above the Bay. " The
Serra," a term  universally applied by Spaniards and Portuguese to mountain ranges, is peculiarly appropriate to these, for
they resemble the jagged teeth of a saw, or the serrated vertebra
of a fish, quite as much as the pipes of an organ.
The Candelaria has no clock, and, if I mistake not, of the
forty odd churches, that of St. Francis de Paula alone has one.
Certainly no other has one that strikes the hours.  Dials are in
front of some which have no works behind them. Though Rio
is thus poor in town horologes, she is rich in a race of artists
long extinct in Europe. Before devices for measuring time
were made to announce its divisions, men were employed for
that purpose; and here "Jacks of the Clock," like ancient sacristans, grasp the clapper of church bells and proclaim  the
hours, sometimes by a corresponding number of strokes, but not
always so. The Candelaria officer attends to the duty only
three times a day-at 8 A.M., noon, and 6 P.M., and then generally gives a fancy flourish.
WVhile sauntering along the Flamingo Beach, one of the numerous tailless quadrupeds of Brazil came out of a building
near by-a peccary.  Attempting to feel its speckled hair and




170                 SKETCHES OF
hide, instead of avoiding me it settled on its haunches, and exposed a terrible set of fangs. A negro approached-probably
one it knew-when it crouched at his feet playful as a kitten.
These animals, when tamed, are infinitely more tractable than
their domesticated relatives. A man passed up the Cattete a
few evenings since leading a couple by a string; they trotted
close to him like favorite dogs. In the woods they go in troops,
and are dangerous to solitary travelers, whom they have been
known to attack. They make nothing of killing dogs; and even
the great ounce or tiger, when attempting to make a meal of
one, often furnishes the herd with a repast.
19thA. Festivals were formerly greatly more numerous than
now, though not less than fifty, ecclesiastical and lay, are kept
up, to the dissatisfaction of merchants. Add Sundays, and one
fourth of the year is lost to commerce. This being the day of
San Jose, the public offices are closed, that all may compliment
him at his church in Dereita Street on the anniversary of his
birth. His espousal is celebrated in January. "And, pray, who
is San Jose?" I inquired of a devout old lady, the very counterpart of Gil Perez.  Lifting her hands, and soliciting the Virgin's protection, she in amazement asked where I had been
brought up, and if it were possible I did not know who that
great saint is.
"I am not positive that I do, senhora."
" Alas! alas! be advised, then, that San Jos6 is God's stepfihc r i',
It was now my turn to stare.  Bedsides strange expressions
used by Romanists of the Old World, and sanctioned by heads
of the sect in the United States, how few are consistent as Brazilians in carrying out the idea! With them, "God's grandmother," "husband of God's mother," "God's stepfather," are
common as "the baby God," "the body of God," " the burial
of God," and other authorized expressions equally exceptionable to Protestant ears.
The Botanic Garden is celebrated for its collection of exotic
and indigenous plants. Located six mliles from the city, it is
an agreeable resort on holidays, and there it was arranged that
we should pass the day.  J — hired a " gondola"-not a Venetian skiff, but a Brazilian omnibus-in which nine of us




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   171
whirled through Boto Fogo, and at length came to a beautiful
lake, exceeding two miles in diameter, and connecting with the
ocean, on whose borders the garden fronts. We passed handsome cottage residences by the way: near the door of one was
a king vulture chained on a post. As we drew near to the Corcovado, I was surprised, though aware of the cause, at the sensible diminution of its magnitude and grandeur.
The garden is situated behind the Corcovado, and between
that mountain and the sea. A neat hedge of Brazilian thorn
separates it from the road.  Many of the trees present novel
features to strangers, while among the plants amateur botanists
might revel in enjoyment. Gravel-walks, and trellis-work with
seats, surround a basin in which a jet d'eau plays. A fine
stream, two feet wide, and three or four inches deep, intersects
the grounds, rushing over a stone channel, and broken at one
place into a miniature cascade.  It is difficult to describe the
grateful, the exquisite sensations which such a cooling streamlet in such a place produces.
Extensive plots are occupied with tea-plants. Cocoas, mangoes, cinnamon, cloves, figs, cacti, bamboos, palms, &c., spring
up every where.  An East Indian tree of the size of the peach
produces abundance of an agreeably acidulous and cooling fruit
resembling small cucumbers, but of a pale straw color, and
whose section is star-shaped. Bread-trees abound, and so laden
with their rouglh-skinned orbicular and spheroidal treasures, that
on a lad laying hold of one branch, down it came crnanshing to
the ground.  The fruit is not unlike a green pineapple, but not
so rough, and seldom so long.  We met Senhor Branda6, the
director, who told me he had received letters from the States
proposing an exchange of plants. He presented me with a corrected copy of those in his charge.  As a document interesting
to botanists, it is subjoined.  After cruising about, we rested in
a house-like arbor, whose walls, roof, door and window frames,
are composed of dense vines. Erected on a mound, it is approached by steps cut in the side, and carpeted with grass.
Here we were again amused with little lizards darting up and
down the trees-an interesting feature in the heavenly scene
around us.
While standing with the director near a dense cluster of bam



172                  SKETCHES OF
boos, a brilliant band was observed coiled round the boll of a
sago-tree. I took it for a riband of scarlet and other variegated
colors. It was a coral snake, the most beautiful, and reputed
the most venomous of Brazilian serpents. It was disturbed and
disabled on the gravel-walk.  A negro was sent for a quart bottle of cacccaa, into which the pretty cobra was put before it had
ceased to writhe.  [This bottle, on the voyage home, was dashed to pieces in a storm, and its tenant rendered valueless.]
To refresh ourselves and cattle, we now drove a mile to a
tavern, a low and mean-looking building, without any indication
of being a hostelry. After lunching, some of the party laid down
to sleep; the rest of us strolled three or four miles toward the
Irmaos Mountains.  A species of black parrot hovered about;
other birds darted out of the woods; and one low piece of ground
was alive with small gray butterflies.
Here was the common Brazilian fence.  Sticks, generally
straight, and varying from one and a half to two inches in thickness, stand five feet out of the ground, and about the same distance apart. They are the posts. The rails are bamboos, averaging twenty-five feet in length, and one and a half inch at the
thick end. Four, sometimes five rows of these, a foot apart,
are lashed by a vegetable withe to the posts.  Wherever bamboos grow, such is the planter's fence. It is cheap, light, and
strong enough to confine cattle, and lasts for five or six years.
A better kind occurred. The posts were five inches thick, and
cut to a uniform height; the rails two inches thick, and both
nailed and lashed.  When the thorn fence is designed, an artificial one, to protect the young plants, is not required over two
to three years, so rapid is the vegetation. Climbing parasites
and vines soon render any such boundaries impenetrable to man,
and beast, and even birds.
By 3 P.M. we returned, and found a dinner nearly ready
that surprised me as much as any thing else.  A slice of bread
and cheese, with a handful of mandioca meal, I supposed the
extreme limits of the hotel's bill of fare. We had soup; fish, resembling large striped bass, brought ashore alive, and prepared
in three different ways; boiled beef; roast beef; fried eggs and
greens served together; boiled chickens; roasted do.; do. fricaseed; curry sauce; salads; potatoes; mandioca, dry and made




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                              173
up like mush; rice; sweet puddings; sweetmeats (quince and
citron); bananas; oranges; almonds; prunes; wine of two
kinds; liqueurs for the ladies, and a dozen other things.   Half
an hour after, strong coffee was served. This repast for nine
persons, another for the driver, the previous lunch for the party,
and feed for four mules, cost only ten dollars. At 8 P.M. we
rode home, after enjoying a day of unmixed pleasure.
CATALOGO DAS PLANTAS QUE SE CULTIVAO NO JARDIM BOTANICO DA LAGOA.
Arvores e Arbustos.
Acacia lophanta, L.      Citrus limeta, Risso.    Lecythis lanceolata, Poir.
Acer saccharinum, L.     Citrus limonum, kisso.   Liquidambar styraciflua, L.
Achras sapota, L.        Citrus medica, Risso.    Magnolia fuscata, Andr.
Acrocomia fusiformis, Sot. Citrus nobilis, Lou.   Magnolia grandiflora, L.
Adansonia digitata, L.    Citrus vulgaris, Rzsso.    Magnolia pumilla, Andr.
Adenanthera pavonina, L. Coffea Arabica, L.       Mammea Americana, L.
Aleurites triloba, Forst.   Cookia punctata, Sonner.  Magnifera Indica, L.
Amygdalus Pcrsica, L.    Copaifera officinalis, L.   Melia azedarach, L.
Anacardium Occidentale,L. Corypha cerifera, Mart.   Mespilus japonica, Thunb.
Anda Gomesii, Juss.      Crescentia cujete, L.    Mimosa Lebbek, L.
Anona muricata, L.       Croton sebifera, L.      Mimusopsis spec.
Anona palustris, W.      Cupressus thyoides, L.    Moquilea Guianensis.
Anona squamosa, L.       Diplothemium maritimum, Morus alba, L.
Apeiba Tibourbou, Aubl.    Mart.                  Morus multicaulis.
Araucaria Brasiliana,    Eleis Guineensis, Jacq.   Morus nigra, Poir.
Lamb.                  Erythrina corallodendrum, Myristica bicuhyba, Schott.
Areca alba, Bory.          L.                     Myristica officinalis, L.
Artocarpus incisa, L.    Erythrina crista-galli, L.  Nyctanthes arbor tristis, L.
Var. nucifera.         Eucalyptus robusta, Sm.   Wnocarpus regius.
Artocarpus integrifolia, L. Eugenia Brasiliana, Lamb. Olea Europaea, L.
Astrocaryum airi, Mart.   Eugenia Jambos, L.      Ormosia coccinea, Jack.
Astronii spec.           Eugenia Malaccensis, L.  Pandanus utilis, Bory.
Attalia funifera, Mart.    Eugenia Michelii, Lam.   Phcenix dactylifera, L.
Averrhoa bilimbi, L.     Eugenim, spec. 3.        Prunus domestica, L.
Averrhoa carambola, L.   Euphoria litchi, Defs.   Punica granatum, L.
Bactris caryotaefolia, Mart. Euphoria longana, Lam.  Pyrus communis, L.
Bactris setosa, Mart.    Euterpe oleracea, Mart.   Psidium cattleianum, LindBambusa arundinacea, W. Ficus carica, L.            ley.
Bignonia chrysantha, Jacq. Ficus elastica, Roxb.  Psidium pyriferum, L.
Bixa orellana, L.        Genipa Americana, L.    Robinia pseudacacia, L.
Bombax pentandrum, Jacq. Gossipium arboreum, L.  Salix Babylonica, L.
Casalpinea echinata, Lamb. Guarea trichilioides, L.   Sambucus nigra, L.
Calamus Rotang, W.       Guilandina moringa, L.   Sapindus edulis.
Carica. spinosa, W.      Hymenrea courbaril, L.   Sapindus inaequalis, DC.
Carolinea alba, Lod.     Ilex Paraguayensis, Hil.  Spondias monbin, L.
Caryophyllus aromaticus, Indigofera anil, L.      Spondias tuberosa.
L.                     Inga vera, W.            Sterculia acuminata, Beauv.
Castanea vesca, Gae.     Jacarandd Brasiliana, Per- Sterculia fcetida, L.
Casuarina equisetifolia, L.   son.                Sterculia helicteres, Pers.
Cecropia palmata, W.     Jatropha elastica, L.    Swartzia Langsdorfii, RadCeratonia siliqua, L.    Juniperus Virginiana, L.    di.
Cerbera thevetia, L.     Laurus camphora, L.      Sideroxilon atrovirens.
Chrysobalanus icaco, L.   Laurus cinnamomum, L. Tamarindus Indica, L.
Cicca disticha, L.       Laurus nobilis, W.       Tectona grandis, L.
Citrus aurantium, Risso.  Laurus Persea, L.       Thea viridis, L.
Citrus decumana, L.      Laurus sassafras, L.     Theobroma cacao, L.




174                         SKETCHES OF
Plantas de Ornamento, Economicas e Medzcinaes.
Abroma augusta, L.       Buginvillea Brasiliensis.   Concuielina tuberosa.
Abrus precatorius, L.    Buginvillea spectabilis,    Convolvulus batatas, L.
Achillea millefolium, L.    Juss.                  Cordia hircina, Hil.
Var. alba.             Buxus sempervirens, L.   Cosmea bipinnata, W.
Adiantum capillus Veneris, Cactus cochinillifer, L.    Costus spiralis, Roxb.
L.                     Cactus ficus Indica, Haw. Crinum Americanum, L.
Agapanthus umbellatus,  Cactus hexagonus, L.       Crinum longifolium, Roxb.
Herit.                 Cactus melocactus, L.     Crinum scabrum, Herb.
Var. albus.            Cactus pendulus, Swz.    Croton picta, Roxb.
Agave vivipara, L.       Cactus pentagonus, Haw. Cucumis anguria, L.
Aloe vulgaris, DC.       Cactus pereskia, L.       Cuscutse spec.
Aloysia citriodora, Ort.    Cactus tetragonus, L.  Cycas revoluta, Thunb.
Alpinia nutans, Rose.    Cactus truncatus, Lznk.   Cyperus esculentus, L.
Alstrcemeria ligtu, L.   Cajanus flavus, DC.       Dahlia frustranea, H. K.
Alstromeria salsilla, L.    Caladium bicolor, Vent.  Var. coccinea.
Amarantus tricolor, L.    Caladium esculentum, Vent.    "  aurantia.
Amaryllis belladonna, L.  Calathea grandifolia, Lindl.    "  lutea.
Amaryllis formosissima, L. Calathea zebrina, L.    Dalechampia pentaphylla,
Amaryllis reticulata, Ait.  Calendula officinalis, L.  Lam.
Ammobium alatum, R. Br. Calla.AEthiopica, L.      Datura arborea, Hort.
Amorpha fruticosa, L.    Caliopsis bicolor, Rchb.   Datura fastuosa, L.
Anchusse spec.           Camellia japonica, L.     Datura stramonium, L.
Anethum fceniculum, L.      Var. alba.             Daucus carota, L.
Apium graveolens, L.         "  rubra.             Delphinium consolida, L.
Antirrhinum majus, L.        "  versicolor.        Desmoncus polyacanthus.
Antholyza iEthiopica, L.  Camellia oleifera, Abel.    Mart.
Arachys hypogaa, L.      Canna gigantea, Desf.    Dianthus caryophyllus, L.
Argemone albiflora, Sims. Canna glauca, L.         Dianthus plumarius, L.
Aristolochia macrura, Go- Canna Indica, L.         Dichorisandra thyrsiflora.
mes.                   Carica papaya, L.           Mik.
Aristolochia symbifera,    Carthamus tinctorius, L.  Dioscorea alata, L.
Mart.                  Cassime, spec. 6.         Dioscorea sativa, L.
Artemisia absynthium, L. Centaurea spec.           Dolichos Lablab, L.
Arundo donax, W.         Celosia argentea.         Dolichos urens, L.
Asclepias curassavica, L.  Celosia cristata, L.    DorsteniaBrasiliensis,Lanm.
Asclepias fruticosa, L.    Centranthus ruber, DC.   Dracawna arborea, Lk.
Asparagus officinalis, L.  Cestrum vespertinum, L.  Dracwana ferrea, L.
Aster Chinensis, L.      Cheiranthus incanus, L.   Elephantopus scaber, L.
Atropa belladonna, L.    Chenopodium graveolens, Eranthemum pulchellum,
Aucuba japonica, L.         W.                        B. R.
Babiana villosa, Ker..   Chrysanthemum carina-   Eryngium fcetidum, L.
Baccharis genistelloides,    tumrn, Schous.        Erysimum perowskianum.
Pers.                  Chrysanthemum  grandiflo- Erythrina isopetala, Lam.
Barbacenia purpurea, L.     ra.                    Eupatorium ayapana, Vent.
Basella alba, L.         Chrysanthemum sinense,  Fragarea vesca, L.
Basella rubra, L.           Sab.                   Franciscea uniflora, Pohl.
Begonia argyrostigma, Fis. Cleome heptaphylla, L.   Fuchsia coccinea, L.
Beta cicla, L.           Cleome rosea, Vahl.       Gardenia florida, L.'Beta vulgaris, L.        Clerodendrum coccineum, Gay-Lussacia buxifolia,
Bignonia capensis, H. K.    Hort.                    Humb.
Bignonia spectabilis, Vahl. Clerodendrum fragrans,   Gesneri.s, spec. 2.
Bignonia stans, L.          Vent.                  Gladioli, spec. 3.
Boerhaavia decumbens,    Clitoria Plumieri turp.    Gloxinia speciosa, Ker.
Vahl.                  Clitoria ternatea, L.     Glycine precatoria, Humb
Borrago officinalis, L.  Cobaea scandens, Cav.    Glycine subterranea, L
Brionia racemosa.        Coix lachryma, L.         Gomphrena globosa, L
Bromelia ananas, L.      Cichoriuln intybus, L.      Var. alba.
Browallia elata, L.      Cornbretum  secundurn,   Gynerium saccharoides
Browallia demissa, L.      Jacq.                     Humb.




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                                175'I-emanthus puniceus,     Marica semi-aperta, Lod.  Piper nigrum, L.
Jacq.                   Melealeuca ericwefolia,    Piper unibellatum, L.
Iledychium coronarium,      Andr.                    Plantago major, L.
Roxb.                   Melampodium australe,    Plumieria acuminata, H. K.
Helianthus annuus, L.       Loft.                    Poinciana pulcherima, L.
Helicrysum bracteatum, D. Melastoma velutina, W.       Var. lutea.
Don.                    Melissa officinalis, L.    Poinsettia pulcherrima, W.
Heliconiae, spec. 3.      Mentha crispa, L.          Polianthus tuberosa, W.
Heliotropium  Peruvianum, Mentha odorata, Sm.          Var. flore pleno.
L.                      Mentha piperita, L.        Polygonum hydropiper, L.
Hemerocallis flava, L.    Mentha pulegiumn, L.       Pontederia crassipes, Mart.
Hemerocallis fulva, L.    Metrosideros salignus, Sm. Pyrethrum Parthenium,
Hibiscus esculentus, L.   Mimosa Farnesiana, L.        Sm.
Hibiscus mutabilis, W.    Mimosa pudica, L.          Quisqualis Indica, L.
Var. flore pleno.       Mimosa sensitiva, L.       Renanthera coccinea, Lou.
Hibiscus Rosa sinensis, W. Mirabilis jalapa, L.      Reseda alba, L.
Var. rubro plena.       Morwea vaginata, Red.      Reseda odorata, W.
flavo plena.       Murraya exotica, L.        Richardsonia scabra, Kth.
"  albo plena.        Musa paradisiaca, L.       Ricinus lividus.
Hibiscus trionum, L.      Musa sapientum, L.         Ricinus communis, L.
Hoya carnosa, R. Br.      Mutisia speciosa, B. M.   Rosae, spec. 22.
Hydrangea hortensis, Sm. Myrrhinium atropurpure-  Rosmarinus officinalis, L.
Iberis saxatilis, L.        um, Schott.              Rubia tinctorum, L.
Iberis umbellata, L.      Nepeta cataria, L.         Rubus rosae-folius, Poir.
Impatiens balsamina, L.   Nerium oleander, L.        Rubus urticm-folius, Poir.
Ipomcea quamoclit, W.       Var. album.              Rudbeckia amplexifolia,
Ipomcea maritima, R. Br. Nicandra physaloides,         Jacq.
Ipomoea noctiluca, 11cr.    Pers.                    Rudbeckia-pinnata, Vent.
Jasminum flexille, L.     Nicotiana tabacum, M.    Rumex acetosa, L.
Jasminum grandiflorum, L. Nigella Damascena, L.    Rumex crispus, L.
Jasminum revolutum, B. 1. Nymphaea ampla, DC.        Ruta graveolens, L.
Jasminum sambac, L.       Ocymum  basilicum, L.    Saccharum ofllicinarum, L.
Jatropha curcas, L.       Ocymum gratissimum, L. Saccharum sape, Hil.
Jatropha multifida, L.    Ocymum minimum, L.    Salvia splendens, Ker.
Jussieua villosa, Lam,.   (Enothera longiflora, Jacq. Salvie spec.
Justicia calycotricha, Link. Olea fragrans, Thunb.   Saponaria officinalis, L.
Justicia lucida, Vahl.    Origanum majorana, L.   Satureja hortensis, L.
Justicea carnea, Lindl.    Oxalidis, spec. 2.        Scabiosa atropurpurea, L.
Lagerstrcemnia Indica, L.  Pancratii, spec. 2.         Var. alba.
Lantana salviaefolia, L.    Papaveris, spec. 3.          "  rosea.
Lausonia alba, Lain.      Parietaria oflicinalis, L.   Schinus terebinthifolia,
Lavandula spica, DC.      Passiflora alata, H. K.      Raddz.
Leonotis Leonurus, R. Br. Passiflora albida, Ker.    Sechium edule, Br.
Lepidium sativum, L.      Passiflora edulis, B. M.   Sida, spec. 3.
Leria nutans, DC.         Passiflora fcetida, L.     Sesamum Orientale, W.
Lilium japonicum, Thuznb. Passiflora racemosa, Brot. Sesbania grandiflora, Poir.
Lilium tigrinum, Ker.     Passiflora serratifolia, L.  Silene armeria, L.
Limnocharis Commersonii. Pedilanthus carinatus, Spr.  Var. alba.
Limodorum Tankervillie,  Pelargonium inquinans,   Sinapis nigra, L.
Ait.                      Ale.                     Sisymbrium nasturtium, L.
Linaria genistaefolia, Mill. Pelargonium odoratissi-   Smilacis, spec. 3.
Lobelia Surinamensis, L.    mum, Ait.                Solanum, Gild Raddi.
Lonicera periclymenum, L. Pelargonium roseum, Ait. Solanum melongenurn, L.
Lotus Jacobfeus, W.       Petiveria alliacea, L.     Solanurn nigrum, L.
Lupinus albus, L.         Petrea volubilis, L.       Sonchus Hispanicus, Jacq.
Lychnis Chalcedonica, L. Putunia nyctaginiflora,    Sophora litoralis, Schr..'ladia sativa, Viol.        Juss.                   Spinacea oleracea, L.
Malva crispa, L.          Petunia PhceIuicea, D. Don. Stifftia chrysantha, Mik.
Mfalva Mauritiana, L.     Phaseolus caracalla, L.    Tagetes erecta, W.
lalva rotundifolia, L.    Phlox paniculata, L.       Tagetes minuta, L.
M.aranta arundinacea, L.  Phyllanthus niruri, L.     Tagetes patula, L.
Maranta bicolor, Ker.     Physalis Barbadensis, Jacq. Tanacetum vulgare, L.




176                       SKETCHES OF
Tetracera volubilis, L.    Turnera cuneiformis, J.   Vinca rosea, L.
Tetragonia expansa, H. K. Typha angustifolia, L.   Var. alba.
Thunbergia alata, Lod.    Urena lobata, L.       Viola tricolor, L.
Tigridia pavonia, Jacq.    Vanilla aromatica, Swz.  Vitis vinifera, L.
Tillandsia usneoides, L.   Vellosia candida, Mikan.  Yucca aloifolia, L.
Thymus serpyllumn, L.    Verbascum virgatum, W. Yucca filamentosa, L.
Tolpis barbata, Gae.    Verbena psuedo Gervao,  Yucca gloriosa, L.
Trachelium ceruleum, L.    Hil.                  Zingiber officinale, Rosc.
Tradescantia discolor, H.  Verbene, spec. 2.     Zinnia elegans, Jacq.
K.                    Verea crenata, Andr.     Zinnia multiflora, L.
Tropeolum majus, L.     Veronica spicata, L.
Mais uma grande collecedo de orchideas indigenas, que fazem em muitas partes
a belleza do interior das nossas florestas, muitas Bromelias, Tillandsias, Pitcairnias,
Melastomas, Acacias, e diversas outras especies valiosas, indigenas e exoticas, que
nao achei descriptas.        B. J. DE SERPA BRANDA5, Director do Jardim.
CIHAPTER XV.
Goddess of the Blind.-Her Church, Shrines, and Symbols.-A Slave consulting
her.-Interview with her Sacristan.-Ex Votos.-Our Lady of the Cape of Good
Hope.-Insuring Friars.-Other Professional and Competing Saints.-Street
Images.
larch 20. Wandering out early, I brought up, I know  not
how, on the beach or street of St. Luzia: a rua without houses,
but not without a church-one dedicated to the lady just named.
She is the patroness of the blind, and much celebrated for affording that relief for which we have recourse to oculists and
eye infirmaries.
Stepping through the open door, I found no one within. Marble basins, in the form of shells, for holy water, are built in the
wall on each side of the door, and near them esmola boxes.
Besides Luzia, only two others have shrines here. Against the
right wall is St. John, and opposite to him the Lady of Navigators. She stands on the deck of a ship, with its broadside
to spectators. A strongly-bound box, secured by two padlocks,
with her likeness on its front, and a slit at top, hangs by the
wall close to her; reminding sailors that, while she confers favors on them, acknowledgments in the shape of vintems and
milreis are expected.
At the farther end Luzia stands of natural size, holding two
eyeballs on a plate or saucer. By the altar rails are four gilt
candlesticks of wood, each six feet high, and on their triangular




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                    177
bases eyes are portrayed, besides a pair of colossal ones on the
screen near the front door, looking very like an optician's sign.
And why should not churchmen hang out symbols of good
things they deal in as well as laymen, where numbers of their
customers can read no other kind of writing? [Luzia's collectors carry with them a silver eye for contributors to kiss.]
In a corner the handsome movable pulpit stood, one of those
fashioned apparently after table tumblers-gigantic goblets on
fancy stems and bases. They are very light and picturesque
in appearance, but, from inequalities of the floors, are liable to
be unsteady. Indeed, I never could resist the idea that a gesticulating orator might, in a paroxysm of ardor, throw himself
so far forward as to close his discourse with a peroration that
would save the sacristan the trouble of bringing forth the portable step-ladder for him to dismount.
It is an old and a current trick of children to break the end of
a black peascod, and turn the piece back to represent the cowl
of a monk, while the exposed pea resembles his smooth-shaven
crown: put one of these Liliputian preachers into a swelled
wine-glass, and you have no bad picture of a friar in one of
these perambulating pulpits.
A slave came to the door, removed a large basket firom her
head, sprinkled and crossed herself, and dropped on her knees
within two feet of where I stood. With her eyes on Luzia, she
muttered her wishes or her thanks, rose, put her mite into an
alms-box, made another reverence to the saint, and went away.
Poor creature! she feels relieved by pouring out her sorrows before the image of one who, she is told, has the power to mitigate them. I am almost ready to reverence superstition which
can thus soothe the sorrows of the desolate, and reconcile them
to a joyless existence. Perhaps not her own, but another's woes
induced her to call in-some purblind mother, brother, friend.
Whatever is the cause, blindness is exceedingly prevalent among
the slaves.  It is distressing to meet so often one or more bearing full "barils" on their heads, rolling their sightless eyeballs,
and feeling their weary way with sticks.
I had now been half an hour in the place, and, except her,
not a soul had appeared to break the stillness that reigned within, nor without but the surf.  Within the altar rails were two
M




178                 SKETCHES OF
side doors, one partly open. What harm can there be in stepping up and looking in? So I reasoned, and so I acted. The
left door opened into a passage in which were several votive
tablets. Only two had eyes painted on them. I next crossed
over to the other door. Pushing it gently open, a pair of eyes
near the floor glistened on me, and the next moment came forth
in a living head-the sacristan's! Here had he been seated all
the morning, on the floor, with his back to the wall, repairing
mule-harness, of which not less than two cart-loads lay near
him. I learned subsequently that he was by trade a shoemaker, and had a family that required his awl to make ends
meet.
I had some difficulty to make him comprehend my wish to
learn something about a saint who repaired defective eyesight;
but the instant he caught the idea he beckoned me in front of
the altar; closed both eyes; inclined his head on one shoulder;
moaned; raised his hands in supplication to Luzia; paused a
moment; slowly opened the corner of one eye; then the other;
then gradually disclosed the full orbs of both; gazed up, down,
and around with well-feigned astonishment; clapped his hands
in exultation, and kneeling, held them up in gratitude to the
saint; rose, and smiling, turned to me. I exclaimed, "Bom'
muito bom!" And so it was; it was capitally done; nothing
could have better shown how little true eloquence needs exterior
helps to set her off, for he was without a neckcloth, coat, or
vest, and had neither shoes nor stockings on.
To illustrate the subject farther, he went to where the tablets
were, and referred to them as proofs of the lady's power. I
mentioned the "sacristia;" on which he opened a door at the
end of the passage, and introduced me into a room behind the
altar. Here was the great staple of vestries-a mammoth bureau (over twenty feet long) of wood, black as ebony, containing the plate, wardrobes, and regalia of the images. Its bronze
furniture might be shown as antiques from Pompeii, so similar
are the drawer-handles, key-holes, &c., to such things found
there. From the walls were suspended, with votive eyes, other
members of the human frame: proofs that the presiding patroness did not confine her practice to one class of diseases.  Here
were heads, arms, hands, feet, and a half-length portrait in alto




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   179
relievo, all of wax.  They were aI-r,s._~..~ parently very old, for their color was
something between that of the floor
i   and the bureau.  No explanatory labels were attached, each being left to
il:Z~lli   | l   dition the unhappy original was in
W'i' i~..p...e, to r     our to maw:*-cm
There was no telling from the heads what their owners ailed
-whether the seats of the complaints had been within or without-scald heads, broken heads, weak or deranged ones. The
lineaments are disfigure d an  all but obliterated.  Were it not
pretty certain that this is the result of heat thand age, one might
infer the originals had belonged to pugilists. Of other wall-ornaments, the most characteristic was an old picture of a ship in
distress, and the Lady of Navigators saving her.
The artist now resumed his labors on leather straps and panels, and I left in quest of other novelties. Two sailors were
sunning themselves at. full length on the steps outside, and
watching vessels moving over the Bay. If theirs was a visit of
devotion to the goddess of seamen-and it is not likely any
thing else brought them to a place so lonely and so remote from
the shipping-they might serve to remind one of Sidonian or
Carthaginian mariners lounging in front of Neptune's temples
after thanking him for a successful voyage.
The unpaved thoroughfare of St.Luzia has been made by cutting away the outskirt of Castle Hill, which here extended into
the Bay.  Men are still digging into the red, tenacious soil. I
passed them, climbed the huge mount, descended into the city
on the other side, and landed in Rua do Carmo, where I observed a street-image over the gateway of a handsome passage,
leading to the Public Library and the Carmo Church. Upon a
stone bracket stands a species of glass lantern, three feet high,




180                SKETCHES OF
with a large pane in front and a smaller one at each side. The
glass wanted washing, for not till gazing a moment or two was
it certain that the saint was within.
A tinman has his shop directly opposite. I tried to get information from him by pointing to the image, and naming every
saint I could think of. I did not hit the right one, nor could I
if I had been guessing still. Mr.W.. subsequently called
with me on the artist, who told us the image was an old one of
the Carmelites, and that he and other neighbors are at the cost
of illuminating it every night.
"But who is the saint?"
"Nossa Senhora de Cabo da Boa Esperan9a."
"What! our Lady of the Cape of Good Hope?"
L' Si, Senhor."
I stepped over the narrow pavement to
an esmola box fixed to the left post of the
gateway, which till then had escaped my
notice. A full-length miniature of a lady,
holding a nosegay in one hand and a baby.rJ. 4   RIi  in the other, was painted on the back, and,
iff   sure enough, on a scroll under her feet was
~    ~ ~ inscribed, in minute letters, her name as he
had given it.
This is another of the almost endless metamorphoses of the
Virgin and child-an affair got up for the special accommodation of Portuguese seamen bound round the South African promontory. By calling here, they used to secure (and some yet secure) a fair passage by raising their eyes to the lady in the lantern and dropping something into her money-box.
The Portuguese were the first, and for a while the only navigators exposed to the dangers thus provided against.  The
frightened crews and shattered vessels of Bartholomew Diaz,
its discoverer, prevented him from doubling Cape Tormentoso,
as he named it. In the absence of a proper maritime god, the
White Friars proposed a goddess-their " sister"-in the new
character of " Our Lady of the Cape," and Heaven, by miracle,
2:onfirmed the proposition on this wise: A vessel was on thel
point of foundering off Table Bay.  "Our Lady" appeared in
propria persona, and saved her. On landing, the men were




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                    181
surprised to find an exact image of her as she appeared at the
mast head.  From  this "milagroso imagem" all others were
copied.
There can be no doubt that a shrine of the lady was as useful in Rio as in Lisbon. It was more profitable. Vessels called in here on going to and returning from the Indies. Passengers and crews bound round the Cape renewed their vows or
made fresh offers for a fair passage, and those on their way
home had an early opportunity to make their acknowledgments
before a due sense of them vanished. But, passing such matters, certain it is that the Carmelites came in for a handsome
share of this species of marine insurance; and though they did
not issue general policies, like their brethren of Boa-Viagem,
their business at one time was thought to have been not less
profitable than endorsing all kinds of risks.
Insuring friars have peculiar privileges. Whatever risks
they underwrite, they never return a premium or make good
losses. There are so many strange things in the world, or this
of beggars turning underwriters had attracted notice. The Carmelites are an order of mendicants.
Whatever happens to other professions, the resources of friars never fail. It is a maxim with all who trade under the name
and style of a particular saint, that he or she can meet all human exigencies. At the same time, the managers do not hesitate to follow the practice of lay dealers in drawing custom from
other establishments; leaving their own fields when in stubble
to glean in their neighbors'.
St. Sebastian, like his brother Roque, was originally a plaguedoctor, but the pest is rare; his practice has become general,
and scores of holy competitors undertake epidemics. Anthony's
forte once lay in protecting houses from thieves and recovering
stolen goods. He now dips into every thing-interferes with
St.Brass in curing sore throats; competes with St.Michael dos
Santos, the prince of cancer eradicators; takes a large slice of
the business and profits of the two lady protectors of seamen;
has used up St. Gongalo in marrying young folks; sends more
rain to planters in dry times, and makes more poor land fruitful without manure than all other friends to farmers-a universal genius-a saint of all work.




182                SKETCHES OF
Then here is the great Francis de Paula-who, when in the
body, knew not the bottom of a breviary from the top, save
where there was a picture-removing cataracts from the eye,
tumors from the brain, water from the head, and even enlightening people's understandings, though, when alive, Heaven
itself could not illumine his own. Yet his church records prove
that in these things and many others, as driving away demons
and calming tempests at sea, he is as successful as the most
eminent of canonized practitioners. He is, I am often told, " a
very miraculous saint."
To worldly-minded people there appears a lack of discrimination in the distribution of these avocations. Such would associate the Rio favorite with St. Gertrude, who, as a rat and
mouse destroyer, was unprecedented. To Francis they would
give in charge other vermin, and not have saints of more delicate and refined habits asked to extirpate the most loathsome.
But this and other incongruities arise from the principle cultivated by the managers of every institution possessing a saint,
namely, that whatever a devotee may want, their saint can give
or get it for him, and that it is unnecessary to go farther. As
a natural consequence, some become popular, and others lose
caste and linger on by picking up chance customers; the Lady
of the Cape, for example-her shipping business is dwindled almost to nothing, and she ekes out a bare subsistence by patronizing a few shoe and leather dealers and a tinshop; coming in
collision with her brother Crispin at one hand, and at the other
with., perhaps St. Goare, the pot-makers' patron.
Formerly there was no threading a street or turning a corner
without having to compliment one of these diminutive divinities.
To a devout population they were convenient, as every one
could perform an act of devotion en passant-merchants at their
doors could invoke a blessing on their speculations, tradesmen
ask for better times and prices, and slaves for any thing they
pleased except their freedom. To prevent disrespect through
thoughtlessness, in the absence of the sun, lamps were lit before
them, so that no gentleman in going by should neglect to raise
his hat, nor lady to make a courtesy. To us, these venerated
genii are but eighteen-inch dolls; to Romanists, they are acknowledged media by which prayers reach those they represent.




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                      183
It is worth recording that the slaves have contributed to deprive their masters of these images-a minor retribution for robbing them of their homes ahd idols.  Blacks never do any thing
by halves except labor, and, under similar circumstances, every
white race would imitate them.  Give them any congenial subject to cultivate, and they become enthusiastic amateurs. They
so thronged round the street images, and so annoyed the neighbors with their orisons, that, instead of a city blessing, the little
genii verged toward a municipal nuisance, and became gradually removed. Last year several disappeared, and soon hardly
one will be left.  T     kindly sketched for me a venerable
one at the corner of Hospicio and Ourives Streets.
Most of them were perched up some ten or fifteen feet against
private houses.  It was and is deemed auspicious thus to put
a dwelling or a store under the immediate protection of a saint.
It would be less subject to fires and thieves, and its indwellers
to the casualties of life. They would be more fortunate in
business, have larger profits and fewer losses than others, better customers and more of them-the very ideas and practices
of the heathen. That such buildings should have brought higher rents than others was reasonable.
CHAPTER XVI.
Rain.-Mechanical Professions. —Labor versus Respectability.-Efifect on young
Men.-Building.-Hammer-gainut.-Working Hours and Wages.-Rejoicings
over Rafters. -Masons and Masonry. - Scaffolds.-Walls.-Antiquity of the
Tools.-Plummet.-Hatchet or Adze.-Carpenter's Bench.-Saw and Planes.Mode of laying Floors.-Doors, Shutters, Hardware.-Pavers.-Lithography.Coppersmiths.-Lamp.-Slave Artisans.-Merchants. - Barbers.-Beggars.Lawyers. —Lotteries.
ifarch 21. I have now been nearly fifty days in Rio, and
more or less rain has fallen on about thirty of them. Heavy
showers are now descending, accompanied with lightning and
rattling thunder. Last night I thought the windows were battered with hail, but on putting out a hand I caught no "stonewater."  The opportunity is favorable for posting up notes on
labor and mechanical professions.




184                 SKETCHES OF
The unavoidable tendency of slavery every where is to render labor disreputable —a result superlatively wicked, since it
inverts the natural order and destroys the harmony of society.
Black slavery is rife in Brazil, and Brazilians shrink with something allied to horror from manual employments. In the spirit
of privileged classes of other lands, they say they are not born
to labor, but to command. Ask a respectable native youth of a
family in low circumstances why he does not learn a trade and
earn an independent living; ten to one but he will tremble with
indignation, and inquire if you mean to insult him! "Work!
work!" screamed one; "we have blacks to do that."  Yes,
hundreds and hundreds of families have one or two slaves, on
whose earnings alone they live.
Dr. C, an old resident, says the young men will starve
rather than become mechanics. He, some years ago, advised a
poor widow, who had two boys (one 14, the other 16), to put
them to trades.  She rose, left the room, and never after spoke
to him, although he had attended her family professionally for
eight years without charge. He was recently accosted by a
clerk in the Police Department, who made himself known as the
widow's oldest son, and happy in a situation which brings him
300 milreis a year-150 dollars! To be employed under government in the police is honorable, but to descend from an emyeror's service even to a merchant's is degrading. As an example of the general feeling, take the following: the parties are
known to me. A gentleman of eighteen was induced to honor
an importing house with his services at the desk. A parcel not
larger than a double letter was handed him by one of the firm,
with a request to take it to another house in the neighborhood.
He looked at it; at the merchant; took it between a finger and
thumb; gazed again at both; meditated a moment; stepped
out, and, a few yards from the door, called a black, who carried
it behind him to its destination!
This pride is, however, giving way, and the Legislature has
taken measures which will tend to subdue it, by requiring foreign merchants to take a certain proportion of native clerks into
their establishments.
Thus taught to shun honorable avenues to independence, it
may be asked, How do they live? On the public, wherever they




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   185
can. But the country is poor, and salaries, except the emperor's, are very low; still, the government is beset with applicants
for every species of office by which a few hundred milreis a year
can be got. Every department is full to overflowing. Broods
of embryo diplomatists seek initiation in the various grades of
attaches. Swarms solicit commissions in the army-in allusion
to which, it is said the officers will in time outnumber the men.
The Church is next besought for the means of genteelly soaring
above the lower orders, but she has shaved more heads than she
can shelter.  Hundreds of tonsured gentry are without professional employment; obliged to seek out other ways of living,
and fortunate are they who accumulate enough to buy a black
or two, by whose wages their creature comforts are secured.
Law and physic are the other inlets into which the hungry fry
throng for food; but these are crowded, and little room left for
new comers to squeeze in. The great mass have to turn disappointed aside.  And what are they to do?  Descend below
physic they can not without dishonor. What then becomes
of them? I know not; but this I know, that it is distressing
to see so many talented young men without any settled plan or
definite purpose before them, and unfitted by education for independent exertion in the industrial or commercial pursuits of
life; lounging away years of their prime in vague expectation of
public employment, living on friends little able to help them,
incurring debts, and, from inability to meet their engagements,
accused of verifying an old adage, " The day of obligation is the
dawn of ingratitude."
These remarks sufficiently explain why it is that master mechanics and tradesmen, with the exception of a few French and
other foreigners, are Portuguese. The richest men in the country, the most industrious artisans and assiduous of store-keepers, are Lusitanians. Brazilians dislike them, perhaps as much
for the competence their diligence in business realizes as for
any thing else. I shall devote this chapter to the mechanics
of Rio. They have customs, processes, and tools, which, if on
no other grounds than their antiquity, deserve a passing notice.
As two or three new houses are going up close by, I have had
daily opportunities of observing the manceuvres of builders. At
first I was puzzled by a species of melody, regularly executed,




186                 SKETCHES OF
morning, noon, and night, with the hammer.  It is the "call"
of the men to work, and the signal to quit it. A man kneels
on a scaffold plank, and strikes it, or the side of a beam, or
any piece of sounding timber, in such a way that few but a
practiced hand could well do. The sound reaches to a great.
distance; and woe to the slave that, ere the last blow is struck,
is not at his post with his trowel, his hoe, or his saw in hand.
The device is in general use.
Twenty times have I scored the notes as they were being
struck off by as many musicians, without perceiving any material variation in the music or its duration. It was easy to represent the force and succession of the sounds by different-sized
dots and the spaces left between them, thus:, S * * *....*. eo...-......0.......@,e ~.  
They exhibit what might be called the Hammer Gamut, or
Builder's Tattoo.  To read this metrical morceau aright, it
should be considered as composed of four bars, corresponding to
as many parts of a short address, namely: two, sometimes three,
sonorous and startling knocks-a roll of raps tapering down to
an inaudible rattle-the roll repeated in inverted order, and
closing with a triple and emphatic menace. Put into words:
" D'ye hear?-run, then-quick, or you'll catch-a thrashing."
Working hours are from dawn to dusk, i. e., from half past
five to half past six, very little twilight preceding sunrise or
following sunset. From the rains and oft-recurring festivals,
mechanics do not average over five working days to the week.
The master mason of the large house going up next door works
full hours. He is a Portuguese, and receives $1 a day for himself, from 40 to 70 cents for his men, and 25 to 30 for his laborers.  His assistants are all slaves.  The carpenter, also a
Portuguese, has the same wages as the mason.  Most of his
men are white, and their pay varies from 40 to 80 cents-the
latter is considered high wages.  Here are no master builders,
as with us; they are little more than foremen-owning tools,
but provided with neither shops nor materials. Every thing is
prepared on the premises of their employers.
When the walls of a house are ready for the rafters, the laying down of the first pair of these is announced by a concert of




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   187
instrumental music, and other demonstrations of joy. Hearing
an unusual noise one day, I went out, and found it came from
a new building in Machado Place.  Two rafters had just been
raised on the second story. The Brazilian, Portuguese, and
some other flags were flying over them. Black and white artists aloft were drumming con gusto on beams, planks, and crowbars, while hissing squibs and Chinese crackers contributed to
the harmony. This was kept up till the owner appeared and
made them a donation, when up rose a rocket in honor of his
liberality, accompanied with an original fantastacio rattled off
with hammers on girders.
The head carpenter and mason of J  -'s new mansion, having got the first two rafters in their places, came yesterday, according to ancient custom, to inform the family of the fact, and
to express the wishes of the workmen " that whoever shall dwell
in that house may be happy."
_Masons and JMasonry. —Bricks are little used except for
kitchen fire-places, rough arches over doors and windows, and
as finishing courses to receive plates for rafters. (There is not
a brick house in Rio.)  In laying them, workmen are careful to
run the mortar into the upright joints, for which purpose every
man has water in an ox's horn.  The water in the horn is called
the "mason's nail," from the solidity it imparts to his work.
Were a Brazilian artist to witness a Yankee brother carrying
up a five-story building, laying the bricks as fast as they could
be picked up, he would flee the place instanter, calling on the
saints by the way to keep up the walls till he got clear of them.
The bricks are not hard burned; they are ten inches by five,
and two and a half inches thick.
The walls of houses in Rio are exceedingly thick; for twostory houses, seldom less than five feet below the surface.
They are not in courses, but are faced with innumerable pieces,
varying from two inches to half an inch, stuck in mortar between the large stones, so that before the stucco is laid on the
structure appears as if composed almost wholly of these fragments.
The scaffolding is on the old plan, and secure. Putlocks pass
through the work, and project equally on both sides, though
supported by upright poles only on one. Every five feet of




188                 SKETCHES OF
elevation, a fresh platform of planks on each side of a wall is laid
down. They make miserable work of lifting the larger stones.
A few days ago, eight negroes were yelling an African virelay for
nearly half an hour on elevating one not over two hundred and
fifty pounds' weight to a height of ten feet, under the direction of
the master mason, who pulled too. It was hoisted by a chain
passing over a single block lashed to one of the scaffold poles.
Hammers, trowels, hoe for mixing and lifting mortar, and
round baskets for carrying it on the head, are precisely such as
we see in illustrated works of the fifteenth and illuminated MSS.
of preceding centuries; such, too, as are portrayed in Egyptian
sculptures. The costume of the laborers, and their mounting
ladders with bare feet, also accord with building-scenes in Pharaonic days. The shovel in place of the hoe is a modern acquisition; and the hod, of English or Irish origin, is not seen. The
level is of course used, but not the plumb rule. In place of it,
an implement equally efficient and of more extended application
is in every man's hands. Strange that so old and valuable a
device should have been neglected by British and American
workmen. Here are sketches of a couple.
A is a plummet-a small perpendicular cyl|'2 inder, suspended, as usual, by a line passing
1   through the axis; a, a horizontal cylinder,
whose length corresponds precisely to the diameter of A.  The line passes freely through
the middle of a, as represented.  To use this
instrument, press one end of a against the face
of the stone to be adjusted, and allow A to descend to any part below, when the side of A
will determine, by its distance from the wall,
the deviation from the perpendicular. A is always of brass or iron, and a commonly of hard
wood. In some, the plummet is pointed.  b
shows the apparatus, with a reel, complete, and slightly varied,
as sold in the stores.
Carpenters.-That in Spain and Portugal Moorish customs
are inherited with Moorish blood, and traceable in their colonies,
is well understood.  On going among wheelwrights, carpenters,
joiners, carriage-makers, &c., I was struck with traits decidedly




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   189
Oriental in their tools and processes, such as I had not dreamed
of witnessing. A hasty judgment might pronounce them peculiarly Asiatic, but in reality they were common to the old civilized world. The carpenter's art in Portugal and Brazil is very
much what it was in Italy twenty centuries ago.
The first tool I took up I recognized at once as Roman and
Egyptian. There was no resisting the striking resemblance between it and those in the hands of chariot-builders, wheelwrights,
chair-makers, coffin and cabinet makers, &c., portrayed in Theban sculptures. It is here employed, as it was of old, by all
artists in wood-their principal implement, and by the use of
which an expert or inexpert workman is known. It is the single-handed adze to which I refer-the most popular tool of ancient carpenters, and the one by which their talents also were
determined. Here it is at c, in the preceding cut, consisting of
three parts: a blade, a strong oblong iron loop or ferrule, and
the handle: the latter is slightly curved; the part next the
blade, 3~ inches deep; the part grasped by the hand, 51 inches
long, 1  deep, and 1 in thickness, with the corners rounded.
The end is enlarged to prevent its flying out of the hand. Except this part, the handle is of uniform thickness, but here is a
projection to support the lower edge of the hand. The blade is
five inches wide, and nearly six in length.
The shank is placed against the butt end of the handle, and
the ferrule slipped over both, or it may be put on first and the
shank passed in, when a few blows of the blade on a block
brings up the shoulder (seen in the edge view) against the ferrule.  Neither wedge nor any other fastening whatever is required. It is not possible for the blade to fly off. The harder
the blows struck with it, the securer it becomes. The ferrule
is made deeper and thicker where it grasps the shank.
The general outline approaches that of the adze of the South
Sea Islanders, the difference being due to the substitution of
metallic blades for those of stone, and a loop of iron for a lashing of sinews. To these primeval implements some Egyptian
adzes are allied, but others have the blades secured to solid butmnents of the handle by ferrules, precisely as this modern one.
(See Rosellini, or Wilkinson's "Ancient Egyptians," vol. i., p.
349.)




190                 SKETCHES OF
The adze is applied with much tact as a substitute for the
axe in squaring beams, and for the plane in smoothing them.
Wheelwrights dress spokes and felloes with it; chair and carriage makers can not do without it. It is a universal former,
and next to the hammer in utility.
We recognize the same tool, and expertness in the use of it,
in an ordinance of Lycurgus directed against sumptuous dwellings. The planks of doors were not to be planed. With the
floors and ceilings, they were to receive no other finish than what
was given them by the adze. We know from other sources
that flooring-beams were left exposed, as in our ships and old
Dutch houses, and that they were carved, colored, and polished.
This the Spartan lawgiver denounced.  The subject is farther
and happily illustrated by an anecdote of Leotychides the elder,
preserved by Plutarch. Being at Corinth, he observed the
beams of the room in which his host entertained him curiously
and richly wrought, and satirically inquired if trees grew square
in that part of Greece. The inference is clear that in Laconia
the beams were but little dressed. The exposure of rafters was
a universal feature in the domestic architecture of the ancients.
From their prominence in every room the Savior took occasion
to illustrate one of his most memorable apophthegms.
In the antiquities of Herculaneum is a representation of a
carpenter's shop, including the work-bench, a piece of wood secured on it by an iron clamp (the same as now used), a box for
tools under it; a mallet lays on the floor, and a couple of young
artists are cutting a plank, which one holds down on the bench
with his left hand, and works a frame-saw with the other. His
associate, seated on the floor, grasps the opposite side of the
frame-[see Herculaneum and Pompeii, tome iii., Paris, 1840]
-implements which correspond with those of Portuguese and
Brazilian workmen. Their bench is a smooth, stout plank,
supported on four diverging legs. It has no side screw or
wooden vise, but is furnished with the. device which preceded
that; and which, as illustrating the progress of the arts, is worth
noticing. Two stout slats, whose length exceeds the width of
the bench, slide in dovetailed grooves (three or four feet apart),
cut across its under surface; their front ends are enlarged into
what may be called jaws. The slats are pulled out, and the




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   191
piece of wood to be dressed placed upon them. They are then
pushed in till the jaws press it against the side of the bench,
when the workman, reaching over, drives in a wedge at the farther side between each slat and the groove it moves in. Sometimes the jaws are not pushed up close, but are purposely fixed
to allow a wedge (which hangs by a string to the front of the
bench) to be driven between one of them and the plank or other object which is to be held.
CARPENTER;S BENCH.
This contrivance is efficient, but clumsy, and requires more
time than the vise to secure and release its object. It is, however, too refined to be the original of its type.  It is an improvement on a rude predecessor that still competes with it,
consisting of two stout blocks secured on the bench, one toward each end. A deep vertical notch is cut into each block,
presenting fixed jaws some five or six inches wide and as many
deep. Between these the article to be trimmed, or plank to be
edged, is dropped, and made fast by a wedge. I noticed half a
dozen of these benches at the public works on Castle Hill, and
repeatedly met them elsewhere.
The hand-saw of England and the United States-the most
valuable of the genus-is never found in the hands of workmen
here. The little framed blade-the universal implement of
antiquity-is indiscriminately employed.  It is true that the
Egyptians, like modern Hindoos and Asiatics generally, had an
imperfect instrument for slitting boards, which they lashed upright to a fork or other fixed object, but it was little more than
a large toothed knife.  The old Latin saw is at present the saw
of all the Latin nations. Planes are few and old-fashioned.
Fancy moulding ones are comparatively unknown.
Flooring planks are never laid in single courses as with us,
end joints being deemed eye-sores; hence they are made to run




192                  SKETCHES OF
in one line entirely across the floor; and, when not concealed
by a partition, a number of planks are interposed as at A —a
plan that affords no bond to the walls at those places.  Sometimes half a dozen planks are laid together end to end, and the
joints broken by an equal number, as joints are crossed in a
brick wall.  Ordinary sized rooms are floored as at B. A plank
border, more or less wide, runs round all.
A.
LI.   I.I...    i
The planks are never plowed and tongued, but lap as at C,
which represents the ends of a series.
I have been thus particular in a small matter, because we
have unquestionably here the ancient system of flooring.
Window sashes are those of past centuries-small squares,
and no moulding on the bars; few or none suspended by weights.
The one in my bed-room is a fair specimen: the lower half is
heavy, as if made of iron, and when raised, care is required to
turn the cleat safe under the lower edge; for, were it to fall
when one's head is out, we should never look out of windows
more.
Interior doors are large, of the same heavy wood as the floors,
and without relief. Even in the best rooms they are made of
three or four perpendicular planks held together by dovetailed
battens; nor are they enlivened by furniture, an iron lock and
key being the only fastenings, and an iron escutcheon over the
key-hole their only ornament.
Inside window-shutters are universal. The uniform mode of
securing them is extraordinary. A perpendicular bolt, seldom
less than five feet in length, is fixed on one leaf of a shutter,
and at its lower part is a hasp, which drops over a catch or staple in the other leaf. The bolt neither rises nor falls, but the
act of turning the hasp over its catch turns the curved end of




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                  193
the bolt into a staple fixed in the wall or window-frame overhead. A strong lock is attached to every hasp, and a key hangs
by every keyhole. In one house I observed, in addition, a bell
hung to each shutter! This excessive precaution against housebreakers is an ancient trait in Portuguese building. The material of the floors and doors, etc., is a dark red and heavy wood.
With difficulty I raised from the floor a new inside door, its
weight not being less than one hundred and fifty pounds.
Carpenters and joiners' hardware is chiefly imported from
Portugal. Of wrought iron, it is well made, and far more durable
than what English shops supply.  It is very old-fashioned.
There are keys, hinges, and bolts similar to those preserved in
the museum at Naples. Some good smith work is done in Rio.
The tile roofs and gutter-spouts noticed in Chapter VIII. are
purely classical.
No plans or sections are drawn for buildings. Generally the
mason and carpenter are told to make the house a brother to
Senhor Somebody's, and the windows sisters to those of some
dwelling pointed out. The work progresses slowly.
The street-pavers use a short cylindrical rammer, larger and
heavier than ours, and worked by three men-the "three-man
beetle" of Shakspeare. The signal of the foreman to assemble
his men is sounded by a hammer on an uplifted crowbar.
Cabinet wares are well made, chairs of rosewood included,
but they are inconveniently heavy, and not so strong as veneered ones with us. Their legs are liable to snap.
The largest lithographic establishment in Brazil is that of
Heaton and Rensburg, in Rio. Their pressmen are African
helots.  Mr. H     was surprised to learn that lithographic
printers have from $10 to $15 a week with us.  "A milreis
(fifty cents) a day," he remarked, "is good wages here, and
slaves do not cost us a quarter of that."
In a coppersmith establishment I found fifteen men at work,
every one a slave, including the foreman. The proprietor was
a Portuguese.
Subsequently I spent part of another day arhong the braziers,
and may as well insert the substance of my notes here. All
the copper is imported from England. Of staple articles stills
appeared the chief. I counted fifteen in one shop. Every sugN




194                  SKETCHES OF
ar plantation requires one or more. Nests of pans, from two
to three feet over, presented another article in great demand.
Shallow and tinned, they resembled such as I had seen used by
some lavandeiras. Piles of stew-pans stood in every shop. In
these and the plate-stoves of the country we have fac-similes of
the chief kitchen apparatus of the Greeks and Romans, and of
remoter people.  I thought it strange to find portable furnaces
among braziers' wares, since handsome cast-iron ones are imported, and clay ones of domestic fabric are so common, but
here are so many applications of copper and its alloys, where
with us iron would be used (in clamping stones, e. g.), that one
is irresistibly reminded of the profuse use of bronze by the
Latin ancestors of this people.
Of smaller things few interested me more than a simple and
cheap lamp, in universal use by the poorer classes, and of which
immense quantities are in demand for the interior. Adapted
to burn any kind of oleaginous matter, it is quite
as well suited to the hovels of Brazil as it was to
those of old Rome, whence I believe it is derived.
It is an open cup with a projecting lip, in which
the wick rests, and, so far as a standing or tablelamp, is complete, presenting nothing worthy of
notice.  Its merit is in its pendent qualities.  A
curved (or straight and inclined) strip, with
/~:,,/',  notches in the under side, rises from the back or
~'~f   _    edge opposite the wick, and passes through a
p  perpendicular slit in a small plate that is loosely
hooked to a pointed iron rod.  See the figure.
The sharp end of the rod is stuck into a beam, rafter, etc., in
an upright, horizontal, or any other position or angle; and as
the oil gets low, it is canted toward the wick by passing the
strip, notch by notch, through the plate, till every drop is consumed. The barb, or sharp hook at the upper end of the rod,
is to suspend the instrument from the edge of a shelf or table,
and to pass over a nail, etc. Except the iron rod, the whole is
of thin sheet copper. Instead of being worked up into the form
represented, some are made by simply pinching a piece of metal
at the corners.  Nothing could be simpler, cheaper, or more
durable, the cost is only five or six cents.. 




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   195
The modes of working copper are very similar to ours. Indeed, into none of the old standard professions have less changes
been introduced than copper-smithing, as if the fathers of this
art had perfected it.  The tools in use are such as Mamurius
employed on the Ancylia-such as have ever been common with
the workmen of Egypt and Asia. In one shop twenty blacks
were at work, and not a white face in the place except the
clerks.  Here I observed three or four marimbas hanging
against the wall. With these instruments of their own land the
artists amuse themselves after working hours.
Besides Capuchins and other sacerdotal artists that came
over with or followed the empress, were a couple of Italian coppersmiths. They make out to buy a sheet or two of metal,
and, working it into ladles, skillets, and colanders, start out
and " cry" them through the streets. HI   and I once stopped in Theatre Square to observe one at work. Seated on the
floor, he was bringing into form a couple of small coffee-pots.
With no greater stock of materials and tools than are figured in
a painting of a brazier's shop in Herculaneum, he was a lively
representative of an ancient pagan craftsman.
I have now seen slaves working as carpenters, masons, pavers, printers, sign and ornamental painters, carriage and cabinet makers, fabricators of military ornaments, lamp-makers, silversmiths, jewelers, and lithographers. It is also a fact that
sculptures in stone and saintly images in wood are often done
admirably by slaves and free blacks. A little gray-headed fellow-an old African-begs in the Cattete who was once noted
as an excellent sculptor, but now is an habitual drunkard.
The vicar mentioned lately a slave who is a first-rate workman
in sacred carving in Bahia.  All kinds of trades are carried on
by black journeymen and boys.
The foreign merchants of Rio struck me as forming something like an order of monks. Nearly all are bachelors of from
thirty to sixty years' standing. Their homes, like monasteries,
contain no females. Seeking to accumulate the means of enjoyment, they continue the chase till the powers of enjoyment
are well-nigh gone.
Barbers.-Barbers here sharpen their razors on the cork-like
pito-wood.  The leech trade is in their hands. HI   and I




196                 SKETCHES OF
occasionally stepped into one shop to look at the thick plank
boxes, three feet long, filled with a fine soft clay, in which the
worms are imported, and in which they burrow till drawn out
for use. Some are of enormous dimensions. The usual price
is twenty cents for each one a barber applies.
Beggars.-A good old custom is kept up by Portuguese and
native merchants, and is imitated by some foreign houses. A
pile of coppers is placed on the counter on the last day of every
week for the clerks to give to the poor. When the pile is
gone, the universal answer sends every applicant away: Paciencia Deos ike favoreta.  This asking God to favor them is
understood as equivalent to "I can't" or "I won't."  One
gentleman gives out two dollars from his counter every Saturday morning. Beggars go their rounds on other days, but Saturday is their best one. An old Rio rascal got rich by mendicity,
and, to the annoyance of his family, would not cease to follow
the lucrative business. I was at first surprised at the prompt
turning away of mendicants on receiving the above reply. It
is the same, however, in Spain: Perdone umd por Dios, Hermano. A similar mode of denial is equally effective in the
East. An Egyptian beggar is silenced at once by Allah yeuzoock, God will sustain, or Allah yoateek, God give thee.
Lawyers.-Of the administration of law, complaints loud and
deep from both natives and foreigners are heard continually.
Criminals are tried before juries, but civil suits are determined
by judges alone; and from them, it is said openly, justice can
scarcely ever be obtained, unless purchased for more than it is
worth. It is, however, not to be doubted that there are men on
the Brazilian bench as pure from the pollution of bribes as are
to be found any where else. Judicial depravity is confined to
no one country. Of numerous examples recently bruited, it is
not necessary to quote any, nor would they have been alluded
to but for the fact of their elucidating a marked feature in the
ancestors of this people.  "Approach the judge with feet iil
hand"-with a present of fowls and game-is a modern as well
as ancient Peninsular aphorism. " Rather bribe than lose thy
cause" is another. The rapacity of some judges is still likened
to that of the Abbot of Corcuelo, who, having supped on a poor
man's porridge, wanted the pot; and to another, who, after eat



LIFE IN BRAZIL.                  197
ing a widow's last egg, was not ashamed to ask for the hen.
In all countries, the humorous Gallician's invocation may still
be offered up, " God keep me from the strokes of a gander"from a lawyer's goose-quill.
ILotteries.-Gambling in these is universal.  Granted for all
sorts of things, fresh ones are perpetually announced. Boys
run about peddling tickets; they enter stores, visit the markets,
and even stop you in the street; nay, women are sent out as
agents by the dealers.  This day two stopped at T's, and
offered tickets to the clerks. The Diario of the 9th contained the plan of the ffth one granted for the " Beneficio do Obra
da Nova Igreja do Senhor Bom Jesus de Iguape," and advertised
another for the "Beneficio da Igreja Matriz do Ceara."
The papers contain notices of tickets purchased for distant
customers. Thus: " No. 4395, of the Sixth Lottery in favor
of the Theatre of Nictherohy, belongs to Senhor M. Pinheiro de
Mendon9a, of Pernambuco." " Senhor A. Airosa has purchased,
by order of and for J. F. A., of Porto Alegre, the ticket 2318."
Rio is, with respect to lotteries, what some parts of Europe and
the United States were a few years ago. As in olden times,
they elicit the passions and superstitions of the poor, and strip
them to the skin. The lavandeira of J-'s family, a poor
white woman, who attends regularly at the palace for alms, was
in deep distress the other day. She had lost her all, and was
in despair. Her ticket had come up a blank! She ran over a
string of saints that she had invoked, vows made to them, amulets and talismans she had worn, divinations performed, in order
to make the number a prize, and complained woefully that not
one of them had done any thing for her!
She attended the late feast of St. Braz, has got one of his
measures and medals, and has great faith in their curing her
swelled throat. As she has lost the sight of an eye by gutta
serena, it was suggested to her to exercise equal confidence in
Luzia, who has been known to release immovable pupils.




198                     SKETCHES OF
CHAPTER XVII.
SMate and Cups.-Sunday Scenes.-Gloria Church.-Images, Vestry, Ex Votos,
and Paintings.-Miracles in behalf of Pedro I. and one of his Daughters.-Lady
of Gloria and a Larangeiras Absalom.-Chapel of the Ajuda grated like a Jail.
-Its Shrines and Images. —A Penitent licking the Dust.-Public Notice of a
Procession. —Images, Angels, and Pomp described.
MATE', or Paraguay tea, is not very much used in Rio.  In
the interior its consumption is great, as it is considered an indispensable preservative against
climatic influences, besides bracing the stomach and invigorating
the system.  A staple article of
commerce, vessels in the southIt        l  l ern  provinces  are  sometimes
wholly laden with it.  In  the
prices current of Nlontevideo and
Buenos Ayres it is enumerated,___ 31'i  as regularly as coffee or flour.*
It is shipped in tin chests covered with colored paper, somewhat
after the manner of China. The
aboriginal mode of preparing and
taking the decoction universally prevails. A little of the leaves
is put into a small gourd, sugar is added, and the vessel filled
with boiling water: the whole is stirred, and a sucking tubecommonly a reed, with a miniature basket-strainer-is introduced, and the hot liquid imbibed through it. The two lower
figures in the cut are gourds: the one on the left has been ornamented after the Indian fashion, by drawing a heated point
of metal over it; the other is mounted in silver, with a tube or
" bombillo" of the same.  The upper figure is an ancient mate
cup in terra cotta.
The first knowledge of tea-drinking in Europe was derived,
* Yerba Mate.-En octubre se introdujeron 3237 tercios de Parnagud, 786 de
Rio Grande: en Noviembre, 3275 tambien de Parnagui, y 82 de Rio Grande, y
en Diciembre, solo 89 de Parnagui. Total, 7387 tercios.




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   199
not from China, but South America. More than half a century
elapsed after mate had been imbibed before the Chinese infusion was introduced.
22d, Sunday. By 7 A.M. the streets were alive with human
ants, with carts, ox-teams, and pannier mules. Met five gangs
of chanting slaves, fifteen to twenty in each, bearing to new
habitations the furniture of as many families. Pavers, carpenters, coopers, and tinmen were busy, smiths at their forges,
tailors and tailors' boys seated as usual on stools, slabs of
jerked beef hung out at some doors, and dry goods fluttered at
others. By a stream which a cow might drink up as it oozes
out of some rocks on the Gloria beach, a solitary lavandeira is
scrubbing shirts and spreading them on a few handfuls of grass
to dry.  Men and mules are cooling their heated bodies just
within the surf; one animal lies down with its head only above
the surface, nor can the driver induce it to rise, so grateful is
the bath-to every shout it returns a snort. A little farther a
negro is coming ashore with the end of a seine, while three associates in a boat take a sweep outward and return; a naked
black wades out to meet them, and, with his nude brother at
the other end, slowly draws the net to land; lads watching in
the street now run down, and passengers stop to look. That
line of ripples is caused by the finny game, and now, like flashes of light, their white sides appear, leaping and struggling on
the shelving shore.
On sultry mornings like this, the noisiest scenes are at the
fountains.  The gabbling crowds, pushing forward their " barils" to the spouts, remind one of litters of squealing porkers
hustling each other in their eagerness for a breakfast.
I turned up to the Gloria church, and rested on a low wall
put up to prevent the unwary from tumbling down the steep.
Here, on a point jutting into the Bay, and several hundred feet
above it, the prospect is delightful. Far down are seen crowds
of mangoes and stately palms, and every where the broad-leafed
banana. Evanescent rays of green and gold flash from the
breasts of humming-birds, while butterflies flap lazily their
wings, and tempt one to follow them. Two linnet-looking
strangers keep hopping on the wall, and anon dart down the
precipice to a tamarind-tree, and again and again return. Above




200                  SKETCHES OF
are chacaras scattered here and there, recalling the Scripture
idea of a city on a hill; but not " from the top of Hermon," or
any other mount of old, was the scenery more enchanting.
The door of the temple stands open, and invites us to climb
higher and look in. How different the plan of this venerable
edifice from others! It is an octagon, fourteen paces in diameter. The main entrance faces the Bay, and the farther side
opens into a smaller octagonal structure, in the centre of which
is the high altar. Behind it is the vestry, very much in the
shape of a horse-shoe. As we enter, two scalloped marble basins offer lustral water, and an alms-box of "Our Lady" solicits subscriptions. Continuing on to the middle of the floor,
a pulpit projects from the wall on either hand; we advance,
and two more esmola boxes present themselves; the one at
your left has a sickly friar's portrait on it, and on the other is
a still more moving appeal —a squalid monk holds up his gown
to show you a wound in his right leg. Had I not learned that
tmbrose was his name, I should have taken him for St. Roche,
who is commonly painted with a boil on his thigh, and exposing it in like manner.
Farther on we stop between the two converging walls to look
at a couple of shrines, with images large as life.  He at the
right is Gongalo, the great patron of maids and bachelors. This
on the left, draped as a monk, is Emygdio-he is celebrated for
protecting people from earthquakes. A little farther the chief
altar rises, and over it the lady of the place, Nossa Senhora
da Gloria.  She looks short, but is, I am told, of full stature.
She is fashionably draped in silks and frills, and wears several
finger-rings.
Now glancing around, the walls are observed to be lined for
eight feet up with blue and white Dutch tiles, representing landscapes and mythologic characters.  Actaeon and others, with
hunting-poles and dogs, are starting and coursing game. Cupid is out sporting too-obese, as he generally is when born
and bred in Holland, he flies his arrows in a manner altogether
unfit for such a place. The general impression of this ancient
temple is pleasing. Columns, niches, altars, candlesticks, and
carved work are white and gold, contrasting prettily with the
blue pagan scenery on the walls.




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                     201
The sacristan came in and led me into the vestry. Its walls
are lined with tiles similar to those in the church. Portraits of
some of the fathers hang on them, and two large and confused
bundles of ex votos, enough to stock a chandler's store. All
are stained with age. A fresh one is not among them. Here
is a large painting, representing a man in a blue coat and white
pants, on his knees, and a stout angel assisting him to rise; a
lady is fast approaching him from below on horseback, and a
female head is smiling through the clouds. I had heard of the
picture and of its origin. The first wife of Pedro I. had much
devotion to the Lady of Gloria, and named her daughter, the
present Queen of Portugal, after her. Pedro came with her one
morning to mass, both being mounted. On coming up the hill,
his horse fell and threw him. His wife, in the rear, at once
called on Nossa Senhora to save him harmless and cause him
instantly to rise. This she did, and, to commemorate " the miracle," the picture was painted and put up here.*
The present emperor and his sisters were brought here soon
after birth, that they might first open their eyes on the image of
the family protectora. It is said the child was always placed
in the arms of the image, but S, who was once present, informed me the emperor, on that occasion, placed it on the altar
only.
Every manifestation of the lady's favor is acknowledged by
such presents as are deemed the most acceptable.  Several sets
of diamond necklaces and ear-rings have been given her, the
sleeves of her gown are united at the wrists with diamond buttons. Dofia Januaria (Joinville's wife), when sick a few years
ago, vowed her " richest jewel" if Senhora da Gloria would restore her to health. Yon diamond brooch on her bosom is the
gem earned and paid on that occasion.
This wooden deosa has a splendid head of hair. It is the
last of a series of rapes of locks committed on her account.
When the brother of Senhor P. L     a, a young gentleman of
my acquaintance, was seven years old, his hair reached more
* " A igreja de Nossa Senhora da Gloria, muito visitado pila primeira imperatriz do Brazil, e muito da sua devoqao, que buscou a sagrada imagem da Senhora
da Gloria para protectora da sua filha primogenita."- Unzverso Pittoresco, tomo iii.,
374. Lisboa, 1844.




202                 SKETCHES OF
than half way down his back. His mother, having great devotion to Nossa Senhora, sheared off the silken spoils, and offered
them "as an act of faith" to her, little thinking how literally
she was copying the practice of heathen dames. The locks were
sent to a French hair-dresser, who wrought them into a wig.
It was brought here, laid in due form before the lady, when the
priest reverently removed her old wig and covered her with the
flowing tresses of the Larangeiras Absalom.
On returning, I passed, as I do almost daily, the Ajuda Nunnery. Through one of the two heavy doors in the high dead
wall we went on the 10th instant. The other opens into the
chapel, and this is the first time I have seen the leaves thrown
back. Let us step in. If we don't get a sight of the nuns, we
may perhaps hear their voices, or at least learn how it is that,
when present at mass, they are invisible.
Ascending a few steps above the pavement, we cross the sacred threshold. Few persons are within, and no priest in sight.
The room is a long and high one; its arched ceiling can not be
less than thirty feet above the stone floor.  One end is, as usual, taken up with the altar dedicated to the presiding geniusthe Lady of Ajuda. The opposite end is startling-a vertical
wall of iron work, three stories high! The bars are inch-bolts;
passing through loops forged in cross ones, leaving spaces three
inches square between them.  The uppermost story seems of
finer texture.
Behind this lattice-work the vestals attend mass, yet no one
can behold them, nor can they steal a peep at people here. Between them and the grating hangs a black linen curtain that defies mortal vision. Here am I close to the bars, and can no
more see through it than through a plate of metal, nor can it be
pushed aside; for, besides being secured to the walls and floor,
it is four feet from the grating; and I am told by one who knows
that a similar screen of metal keeps the nuns at an equal distance. Tons of iron bars to prevent egress and ingress! Why,
this is Newgate; if not,'tis Bedlam, for who but monomaniacs
could introduce such things into the house and church of Jesus!
Turning our backs, as we ought, to the grating, the whole interior of the chapel is before us. Here are six shrines besides
the chief one, three against each side wall.  This one close to




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   203
us on the left is Tereza's, and there she stands, the stoutest
lady saint I have yet met with. She is tall enough for wife to
Saul. Her throat is covered, and her chin tied up, as nun's
chins commonly are; but the rouge on her face, and her gown
half covered with gold (leaf), are not in accordance with her
vows. Several favorite male recluses attend her, among them
Anthony and Francis de Paula-represented in statuettes. The
next shrine to Tereza is St. Anne's, who is giving her young
daughter a lesson in reading. A little St. Michael stands on
one side, and St. Barbara on the other. This last lady is, according to the Compendio de Ora9oes, "a great protectress
against thunderbolts."  At the next shrine is a full-sized
image of Christ, in a half stooping posture, crowned with
thorns, the hands crossed and bound.  Blood trickles over
the pallid face, the knees are bruised, and the entire body more
or less covered with gore. This image is carried in public
processions.
The opposite shrine (on the right) is dedicated to " the sacred
heart," which, with its auricles, veins, etc., is carved in high
relief, and colored most sanguifluously. Two male attendants
guard it-one who, of all the Church's heroes, put on the soldier most-her Suwaroff-Dominic.  There he appears, with
shaven crown, bare feet and neck, and armed with a rosary,
from which a cross like a dagger hangs. He extirpated heresy
and heretics together. The altar of Jose faces that of Anne.
Besides " the Baby God" in his arms, he grasps a stick decorated with flowers and ribbons, because he had one which buded like Aaron's.  " Of good days for confession, his anniversary
is one of the best."
The next shrine faces Tereza's; it is that of John of Nepomuceno. A professor of divinity and canon law in the University
of Prague, he flourished in the 14th century, and wrought so
many miracles, " such as the wonderful preservation of the city
of Nepomuc from the plague, and the cure of diseased persons
given up by physicians," that he was canonized, and added to
the host of heavenly solicitors which the Church retains to
plead for her earthly clients. As usual, several small friends
attend him. One is Apollonia, and another might be taken for
"S' t. John the Dwarf." In the long catalogue of Johns, Butler




204                 SKETCHES OF
has such a saint, and another whom these little folks still more
resemble, " St. John the Silent."
Of the seven altars, only one was approached professionally,
viz., the last. A well-dressed man of thirty-five or forty came
in, dropped on his knees before the Bohemian doctor, to whom
he raised his eyes for a minute or more, broke into a low murmur, and suddenly fell flat on his face. He was within eight
feet of me, and supposing he had fainted, I sprang toward him,
when lo! he was kissing the floor and whispering to it. I
drew back, and he shortly crept on his hands and knees from
one end of the altar to the other. Then addressing the saint,
he brought his mouth to the ground a second time; he next
wriggled himself on his knees to the centre of the altar, and
once more saluted the floor. He rose, wiped his dusty lips,
rubbed down his pants, picked up his hat, and bending his right
knee nearly to the floor in reverence to the saint, drew sidelong
to the door, and departed.
Mentioning what I had seen to a native lady, she observed
that he had probably been required thus to humble himself by
way of penance. But why kiss the dust at the feet of the Bohemian in preference to more ancient intercessors? She could
not say, except that St. John of Nepomuceno is a powerful advocate, and has many devotees among the respectable classes.
My surprise was great at the beginning of the man's devotions, but it was heightened at their close. While they were
progressing, I felt for him as for one whose heart was torn with
anguish, and his face pale and suffused with tears. I was
dreaming.  He rose from his knees as if he had never been on
them, wiped his mouth as if he had just taken a drink, and
dusted his clothes as if shaking off crumbs of a lunch.
27Mt/. This is the first of the Setanaria-seven days dedicated to the seven griefs of Our Lady. The papers announce
processions. One comes off to-day from the Church of Bom
Jesus in Soap Street. The official advertisement, after requesting the occupants of dwellings in certain streets to remove obstructions, concludes thus: " It is recommended with much solicitude to our beloved sisters, and other devout persons, to be
punctual in preparing and sending their angels, in order to impart greater splendor to the procession.
"M. A. PICAN9O, Secretary."




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   205
At 4 P.M.-the hour announced-I reached the church in
the long and narrow lane, now covered with mango leaves.
The doors were closed, but a couple of soldiers, with bayonets,
stood by the vestry door. I passed in. I found the place
crowded with brothers, busy as artists in a theatre just before
the curtain rises. In an inner passage were rows of votive tablets and waxen offerings. A troop of cavalry arrived, and presently a long line of infantry, with music and banners. I secured
a stand in a private entry facing the church door, which at
length was thrown open, and showed the interior a blaze of
waxen lights. Above the shoal of heads a swallow-tailed crimson banner came forth, accompanied by tassel-holders, and having on it the initials of the senate and people of pagan RomeS. P. Q. R. A company in albs, with five-feet candles (unlit),
issued, and formed in line; a silver crucifix, between two superb mourning bouquets, followed, and then more candle-bearers. Now something fills the door, and for a moment hides
the light. It is a platform on six men's shoulders, and upon it
a man bending forward on one knee. Dressed in a russet
gown, his pale face contrasts with his black locks. Bearing an
enormous cross, he personates Christ on the way to Calvary.
Fe has reached the street, and stops within five feet of me.
Why! the figure is an image, which till this moment I had no
idea of, so naturally it appears.* The military present arms,
and receive it with a flourish of music.  It passes on, and see!
how natural the sole of the right foot and portion of the leg
uncovered by the skirts of the gown!
Now smaller figures appear, and certainly not automatons
-a troop of fluttering, smiling, black-eyed angels, whose cupidtbrmed and papilio-painted wings open and close behind them.
Some are enveloped in purple clouds! No two are alike in
dress and ornaments. Each is led by a brother, and carries a
symbol of the crucifixion; one a reed, another a spear, a third
a cup, a fourth a scourge, a fifth dice, etc.  They walk two
abreast, and every couple is preceded by candle-bearers.
Another image issues —a female, full seven feet in height.
~ Nossa Senhora" is whispered about. They have got her safe* In this and other processions living characters perform various parts in the
drama.




206                  SKETCHES OF
ly into the street, and for a while she stands close to me, receiving the salutations of the soldiers.  Her handsome face is
bent down, her hands are folded on her bosom, from which project the handle and part of a sword-blade.  A deep purple
robe thrown over her shoulders reaches to her feet. The platform is richer than the other; its panels are gilt, cypress plants
rise at the corners, and the green mound she stands on is set
off with flowers. Silver lanterns are borne aloft; more tiny celestials skip down; two tall negroes, bare-legged, with bandboxes on' their heads, now fall in, and become conspicuous
members of the pageant.
A flourish of trumpets and a swarm of alb'd men come forth,
followed by a rectangular canopy, beneath which are newlyshaven monks and priests-one carrying before him a vase containing the Host. As it draws near, the people kneel; the troops
to a man are down, and dare not rise till it gets past them.
Mfore angels, brothers, and candles appear, and finally the troops
wheel in and close the rear. The whole is now in motion.
The band strikes up, and to the tune the soldiers march, and
rock their bodies to and fro as if they were in liquor. The motion is one enforced upon them.
An hour later I met the procession in Dereita Street. The
images were coming out of the church of San Jos6. I was not
aware that they were to visit it, or I would have witnessed the
part assigned to Joseph. As it drew near, it was headed by a
character, who had escaped my notice in the throng in Soap
Street, enveloped in a dull brown gown, secured round his waist
with a common rope; a hood, or cowl, concealed both head and
face, openings being cut in it for the mouth and eyes. With
folded arms and stooping gait he strode on, a very suspiciouslooking fellow. He represents a Roman officer-a masked executioner. The monk (I am told he is one) performed the part
well.
Twilight had now set in, and soon every wax torch would be
kindled as by magic; but I was tired, and turned homeward,
gratified at having witnessed a specimen, though a meagre one,
of those ecclesiastico-histrionic entertainments which in dark
ages won over heathens to the faith. From the beginning to
the close, the soldiers, officers, and men sling their caps by




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   207
their sides, and the numerous brotherhoods leave their hats at
home. I counted fifty angels. Some carried censer boxes and
some purple flowers. They are girls from six to eight years
old, and the prettiest that can be procured. Their parents vie
with one another in furnishing the richest dresses. Their faces
are painted, and supplemental tresses added where wanting.
Some are prepared by professional costumers. On their heads
were crowns, coronets, plumes, wreaths, etc. One resembled a
young Minerva, wearing a glistening helmet, a red boddice with
blue skirts, scarlet boots, and crimson stockings. Some few
iwere draped in white, and wholly free from tawdry. Their
frocks, exceedingly short, are expanded by fine wire, and have
quite an airy motion, such as is imparted by the same means to
their wings and clouds. The latter are of colored gauze stretched over shapeless frames that spring from and return to the
back part of the dress.  In a word, these little misses are fitted
for the parts they play in much the same way and with equal
artistic skill as theatrical fairies.
The bearers of the images carry staves in manner of walkingsticks, each having a metallic fork at the top resembling the
letter U. Whenever the procession stops, these are slipped under the bearing-poles, and thus relieve the bearers. Not till I
observed this did I fairly comprehend the bier-scene in Don
Quixote.
~7AL —..-..
ANGELS.




208                   SKETCHES OF
CHAPTER XVIII.
All Fools' Day.-Streets flooded.-Breaking down Mountains.-Notices of Festivals.-Flying Visit to Francis Paula, St. Anne, Joaquim, St. Rita, Bom Jesus,
and the Candelaria.-No Animal Oils burned in Churches.-Carmelite Procession with full-grown Images.-The Nimbus and its curious Origin.
April 1. "All fools' day" is kept up with some of the spirit
of past times, but not comparable to the frolics of the old " feast
of fools"-the parent institution; itself derived from a Roman,
and more remotely from a Hlindoo saturnalia.
Rain pouring down last night has cooled the air to 78~. After breakfast, indications of fine weather tempted me out, but ere
itoon three several showers flooded the streets. Men and boys,
with umbrellas, rode upright on negroes' shoulders, and in the
rear of the Paula Church a horse was employed to transfer passengers across the street: to keep their legs out of the stream,
they rested them on him in a kneeling posture.
It is worth a ducking to be abroad in such weather, if only to
observe pedestrians run the gauntlet between balcony-spouts
and roof-gutters!  Shot at right and left from single and double
tiers of copper guns pointed from window-sills, and when, to get
out of their range by springing into the middle of the street, to
be instantly driven back by douches from the roofs which none
but hydropathic men can stand. When Rio was built the
Pluvian god must have been architect in disguise, and contrived
these liquid muskets to exercise his troops in gunnery. They
vary as in old armories: some flaring at their mouths, like blunderbusses, scattering wide the shot; others are contracted, and
project the missiles more compact and rifle-fashion.
A few years ago several houses at the base of Castle Hill
were destroyed by the rain loosing an impending mass of the
tenacious soil, which fell and buried them. I may as well mention here a simple and philosophical mode of breaking down
mountains of similar material in some of the mining districts of
Brazil. Wells are dug into them, and, during the rainy season,'i!led with water by means of gutters. By this device the hy



LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   209
drostatic pressure of the liquid columns forces off masses fron,
the faces of mountains which would require hundreds of men
for months to accomplish with the mattock and shovel.
2d. The season for ecclesiastical performances has set in ill
earnest.  The papers are charged with advertisements; e. g. 
The Paula committee inform the public that the anniversary of
their saint will be celebrated this evening.  Another notice
runs thus: " On Friday of Triumph, April 3, will be celebrated,
with all pomp and decency, the festival of our Lady of Griefs
before her miraculous image, which the holy father, Pope Pius
VI., consecrated, and which is preserved and venerated in the
Church of the Candelaria........... On the day of the
feast, the brethren who serve the holy image and implore its aid
[implorar o seu auxilio] will find the books at the entrance of the
church."  The Bom Jesus committee offer the following rich
bill at their establishment: " The solemnity of our Lady of
Pains on the 3d instant, procession of Palms on the 5th, a procession on the 9th, the burial of God on the 10th, allelulia and
blessing the great paschal candle on the 11th, and on the 12th
the most religious and devout act of the coronation of Our
Lady."
A gloomy, threatening day; I did not care to repeat the
splashing travels of yesterday, but the rain held off, and the
Paula f6te was celebrated with much eclat. Illumined with
over a thousand waxen lights, and fitted up with new silk and
damask tapestry, the saint's residence was crowded.  In his
best robes he stood forth, and complacently received the compliments of his visitors. Like the reverence paid to the Pope,
multitudes kissed his feet. A sermon was delivered detailing
the miracles he wrought and still works. After sunset the front
of his house was made luminous with lamps, while serpents,
crackers, rockets, and other pyrotechnics proclaimed to earth
and heaven the rejoicings at the saint's soiree.
3d. There has been much talk and no little feeling manifested about the vicar of St. Anne's parish having brought some
sacred bones from Rome, and waiting the emperor's return to
have their advent into the New World duly honored. We may
as well make his church one of the objects of this day's visit.
In going down the Cattete, a gang of freshly-imported slaves
0




210                 SKETCHES OF
came along: their tribal marks, cut in their cheeks, reminded one
of scores of the knife in the crisped skin of roasted pork. They
stared at a smart young fellow bearing a baril of water jauntily
inclined on his head, and twanging the keys of his marimba to
a waltzing tune.  A little farther, and a meagre old man in an
alb leans over a hatch, waiting to know whether any indweller
wishes to secure the friendship of Antonio dos Pobres by addillg a few vintems to his dish.
But here is the Campo and the little village-looking temple of
St. Anne. The floor is sanded, and the pulpit, like a swallow's
nest, projects from the wall.  The place has a poor, worn-out
appearance, according with an unusual number of begging saints
painted on alms-boxes. One I can not make out —a stout figure in a tunic and kilt, or short petticoat, and plaided stockings
-apparently a Celtic chieftain.  The five shrines are all concealed.  The'" covering of the saints" began on the 29th ultimo, and ends on the 11th instant. In a side passage are very
old-looking votive tablets, and only one cereous offering. The
passage opens into a small cemetery. Into the few empty niches swallows are flying and twittering as if they were the souls
of the departed occupants asking where their bodies are.
A short distance from this house of " God's grandmother" is
tl!at of her husband, Joaquim, who is not honored with the title of "grandfather," but simply the "father of Our Lady."
His church is surmounted with two chanticleers.  Such favorites were these symbols of holy vigilance in the Middle Ages
that the clergy called themselves " the Cocks of the Almighty."
The doors being closed, I passed on to the small triangular
largo of Santa Rita, with its octagonal fount and small church.
As the bells kept ringing a general welcome, I pushed the
crimson screen aside and was in another world —one where a
mellow artificial light rivaled the sun, and where people were
as busy as without. On a pinnacle formed of alternate rows
of flowers and lights the lady stood and smiled on the mortals
at her feet; among them were slaves of both sexes, and all apparently striving to catch her eye. The place was crowded. A
committee had not a moment's breathing-time from taking dues
and making change for her little paper portraits. Negro assistants were running to and fro among ladders, planks, and paint



LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   211
pots, as if the doors had been thrown prematurely open. No
priest was present, nor is any required when the festival is once
opened.  It was Santa Rita to whom was given the power " to
make impossible things possible."
In the "Bom Jesus" the altar was the basis of one grand
bouquet that reached the ceiling, and as the feast here was in
honor of " the Lady of Pains," her image was unveiled. Exquisitely carved and draped, she captivated all eyes. Rows of
old and young ladies were seated on the floor gazing at her. In
an adjoining apartment, white and black workmen were seen preparing machinery for new attractions.  I can see little difference
between these and theatrical entertainments. The managers of
both are applicants for public favor on the express ground of the
" brilliancy and splendor" of their spectacles. A contest in the
papers is going on between those of the buskin and the scapulary. The latter insist that the former shall not interfere with
them during Holy Week, and they ask the authorities to prohibit a masked ball just announced.
We have time before dinner to visit the Candelaria, and see
the famous image which Pope Pius blessed.  Here is the
church, facing a narrow lane in the mercantile part of the city.
Slaves are generally found sleeping on the steps, as some are
now, and noisy coffee-carriers waiting to be employed. A committee sit at a table, with a silver dish piled up with money received for portraits of the Lady of Griefs, most grievously cut
in wood or copper. This temple, for chasteness and richness
of decoration, eclipses every other. No smutched-faced saint in
shabby apparel resides here. The side altars are laden with
flowers and flaming tapers, but the chief one surpasses all. A
double row of seven-feet candlesticks, of classical beauty, form
a passage to it, and terminate at a couple of porcelain vases
four feet high, holding bouquets of equal altitude. The front
of the altar is a plate of embossed silver, fourteen feet by five,
wrought into five equal panels with gold borders and rosettes.
There is no sham in this plate. It is used only on great occasions.
Upon the altar candlesticks and vases of flowers alternate,
and from it rises a tapered tower some thirty feet high, composed of series of vases, bouquets, and candles. Upon this ped



212                 SKETCHES OF
estal the miraculous lady stands. She is of the natural size,
and superbly dressed. After gazing a while, I imagined she inclined her head and answered my salutations with a smile, and
thus I again perceived how such miracles have arisen, and how
easy it is for certain souls to be favored with them. Not less
than a thousand perfumed tapers were burning, amid vases holding flowers sufficient for a state floral exhibition. The effect
was really enchanting.
There is something pleasing in the idea which excludes animal substances from materials for illuminating churches-that
suffering and death may not be elements in the worship of the
Author of mercy and life.  Hence neither whale, sperm, nor
lard oils must be introduced into lamps, nor tallow into candles.
Next to olive, cocoa oil is deemed the best: it gives out in burning an agreeable odor. Palm oil is also used. None but bees'
and vegetable wax must be used for candles, the former because it is not obtained by killing its producers.  It is also
deemed improper for crucifixes, amulets, ex votos, prayingbeads, etc., to be of bone or ivory.
As the procession of the Carmelites to-day will equal any
thing of the kind during the rest of my stay in Rio, I was in
Dereita Street by 4 P.M. The balconies were filled by ladies
in full dress, and the side-walks occupied by waiting spectators.
A finer evening could not have been selected for the spectacle.
Soldiers fell into ranks, the crowd thickened, and soon the first
image of the series was seen emerging from the Carmo Temple.
The brotherhood extended from the church, some three hundred
feet, to where I stood. In their uniform of cream-colored albs,
and armed with waxen staffs, they presented a fine sample of
the Church's troops. Here and there one hurried to and fro,
giving orders, and wielding his candle as a marshal's baton.
Others clutched winged cherubs by the hand, and dragged themr
onward, as if they had just captured or brought them down with
their truncheons to ornament the fAte.
The particulars were briefly these: Infantry troops formed
two walls between which the procession was to pass. It was
headed by horse soldiers with drawn swords, three abreast; then
a banner, inscribed S. P. Q. R.; next, brothers and candles; a
crimson bag on a silver pole, with a mourning candle on either




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   213
hand, the wax being painted with black spiral stripes.  Brothers and candles; three angels abreast-the middle one, with a
banner, personated St. Michael the Archangel.  She wore a
shining helmet, a silver breast-plate, nankeen pantalettes, and
scarlet boots. Her wings were spotted prettily, and the cloud
behind her was bordered with (paper) lace. Her arms were
naked. I wished her mamma had kept her large ear-rings,
bracelets, finger-rings, and necklace at home.
1. As the first image now was drawing near, the soldiers fixed bayonets and shouldered muskets to do it honor. It represented The Passion.  A large statue of Christ in a kneeling
posture, with the hands clasped as in prayer. Drops of blood
rolled down the pallid cheeks. An angel, between three and
four feet high, stoops and presents the cup. Three silver lanterns were borne on each side, and a file of soldiers, with drawn
swords, attends.
2. A long line of brothers follow, who are followed by the
second stage, on which stands Christ before Pilate, pale, emaciated, and submissive.
Brothers and angels three abreast.
3. Christ scourged. This image is naked, except a fillet
round the loins.  It is tied by ropes to a pillar, and the face,
breast, back, thighs, arms, and legs are painted streaming with
gore-vividly horrible.
Crowd of brothers and angels.
4. Christ mocked. Seated, a reed in his hand, and a short
purple robe thrown over his lacerated shoulders. -He is bruised
and bleeding all over.
Brothers and angels.
5. On this stage Christ appears standing, and holds a stalk
of Indian-corn or sugar-cane in one hand. A similar spare
robe to the last covers a small part of the naked body. (The
incident represented I did not perceive; perhaps the scene before Herod is intended.)
Brothers and angels.
6. Bearing the Cross. The figure is similar to, or the same
as the one noticed in the procession of 27th ult. Great numbers of devout Brazilians, and the blacks generally, knelt as it
passed them. The attending angels were quite numerous. Of




214                 SKETCHES OF
the symbols, one had the sponge of vinegar on a rod, another the
spear that pierced him.
7. Christ on the Cross. The top of the latter is, I should
think, nearly twenty feet from the ground. The shaft rises
from a greeen hillock on the stage, and springs considerably.
As it drew nigh, the cause of this was apparent. The cross is
of plank, and the weight of the image causes it to bend to and
fro, for it has no support except at the foot.  I surmised that
the large image might be of papier-mach6, but I subsequently
learned that it is of hard, heavy wood, and nearly 200 years
old. A crimson stream flowing from the wound in the side
contrasted strongly with the chalk-like hue of the face and
body.
Brothers and angels followed, and behind the latter two negroes with boxes of bon-bons, to refresh them during pauses in
the procession.
8. The managers under a long canopy. Of the sea of heads
in sight, theirs only are covered (by skull-caps, rochets, and
mitres), besides being screened by the golden drapery over them.
Every spectator in front falls at their feet, not excepting the
soldiers. Among the young smirking monks is my confessor
friend of the Lapa. They are passed, and now the drums, bugles, and French horns burst forth and do their best. The air
is not Yankee Doodle, but it is quite as lively. The foot-soldiers wheel in, a guard of honor to the fathers, and sway their
bodies as in ecstasy. Finally, the national banner brings up
the rear, and closes the Pomp.
I afterward met it in Quitanda Street, through whose entire
length people were waiting. As the image bearing the cross
came up, many knelt and most stooped, but some young fellows got into a squabble and fight with three or four blacks for
looking over their shoulders.
The images rather exceeded the natural stature. As works
of art they are pretty good, and some are very good. At the
ordinary distance as seen by spectators, their expression is all
that carving and colors can impart. But there is no avoiding
a painful feeling induced by their stiff, unnatural gaits-now
pitched forward, and anon inclined backward.
It was here I first saw what is supposed to have been the




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   215
original figure and position of the Nimbus, viz., a flat, circular
plate, notched all round like a circular saw, and suspended horizontally a short distance above the head of each image. Of remote devices, none is more singular in its origin and change of
purposes than this.
Roman emperors assumed the nimbus as a mark of divinity,
and under this respectable patronage it passed, like other pagan
customs, into the Church.  Among Pompeian paintings illustrating scenes in Homer is one of Ulysses and Circe. The
glory over the head of the sorceress represents a portion of a
vertical disc or ring, but nothing like rays or pencils of light
appear.  Lucian refers to the latter in his Timon: "A golden
statue of the hero was ordered to be put up in the Acropolis,
with a thunderbolt in his right hand, and'rays on his head.'
But the origin of the nimbus is the most curious trait about it;
and, strange to say, on this point enlightened Romanists coincide with archaeologists. In a late number of The Tablet, the
organ of the English Catholics, is a paper on " The Meaning of
the Nimbus."  A century ago the author would hardly have
escaped expiring in a halo of flame.
" It appears to me," he observes, " that in our zeal for symbolism and mystical meanings, we are peculiarly apt to overlook the origin of certain details and usages which never had
any mystical or conventional sense attached to them until centuries after their adoption in the Christian Church, and not
even then necessarily or invariably. This observation is illustrated in a remarkable manner by the history of the' nimbus'
or'glory' which is universally seen in medieval paintings of
saints; for this is, in reality, one of the customs which was
perpetuated from pagan antiquity, and consecrated by its applications to the purposes of the Church.
" It is nothing new to state that the nimbus was in its origin
a metallic disc of copper or silver, placed upon and around the
heads of those statues which stood in the open air, in order to
prevent birds from alighting on them and defiling their faces
with dirt. This custom is first mentioned in a passage of Aristophanes, written more than four centuries before Christ.  The
chorus of birds, addressing the judges of the rival dramas, then
present in the theatre, thus speaks:' If you do not decide in




216                 SKETCHES OF
our favor, forthwith make yourselvesplates of copper, like statues; for otherwise every one of you who has not a disc round
[upon?] his head shall be punished by us birds, being dirtied
with our dung whenever he has a clean white garment on him.'........ In process of time, the original use, as applied to
statuary, was forgotten, and the nimbus was believed, and perhaps conventionally intended, to represent rays of light emanating from a divine or saintly countenance; and hence, by a
farther development, a frequent and ecstatic contemplation of
these pictures gave rise to a belief (recorded in many legends)
that a lambent light was actually seen to play around the heads
and visages of living and departed saints. I hope that I am
not offending against orthodoxy in maintaining that even this
supernatural light was of pagan invention, as Virgil's lZambere
flamnza caput will show.
"The engrailed border which the nimbus so frequently exhibits, especially in stained glass, is undoubtedly borrowed from
the patterns engraved on the metal laminae, and is a curious instance of the detention of a conventional detail for many centuries after its real meaning had been lost.
"The early school of Italian painters changed the position of
the nimbus from vertical to oblique; and sometimes the nimbus is very awkwardly placed nearly flat, like a trencher, or
even a straw hat, on the crown of the head.  The latest debasement was to paint a thin wiry line of light around the brows,
by which all assimilation to the form of the original metallic
disc was lost."
This writer justly remarks that the nimbus ought not to be
regarded as an essential mark nor a certain indication of a saintly effigy.  It has, in fact, been applied, in Christian as well as
in heathen times, to characters of very doubtful morality. Even
the Devil himself has been portrayed with it. The horizontal
position of the plate here denounced was certainly the original
and most effective one. How a vertical disc on the head of a
statue could prevent birds from defiling the latter is impossible
to imagine. It would foster the evil that was sought to be
avoided. Placed flat on the crown, or supported a short distance above, and projecting sufficiently, it would perfectly shield
the head, face, shoulders, etc., from pollution. Cases doubtless




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                     217
often occurred where a position more or less oblique was admissible. Thus, when contemplated from certain points of view, the
edges only of the plates would be visible; hence probably arose
the wiry line around the brows in paintings. There is reason to
conclude that the under sides of these plates were highly polished and otherwise ornamented, and frequently the names of the
persons represented engraved upon them; and farther, that the
diversity of forms, triangular, polygonal, radiated, etc., arose
from efforts to guard protruding portions of the figure and drapery without an unseemly and unnecessary enlargement of every
part of the primitive circular disc.  (For farther information on
this curious subject, see Hope's Historical Essay on Architecture, and the first volume of the Archoeological Journal.)
CHAPTER XIX.
Palm Sunday: Ceremonies and Customs.-Eunuch Singers.-Specimens of Ecclesiastical Advertisements.-Benedictine Chapel.-Dark Wednesday.-A MerSCeiro.-Juno Lucina of Rio.-Lady of Civilities.-Holy Thursday.-Matracas.
-Silver Plate in the Carmo Church.-Kissing a dead Christ in the Candelaria.
-Appearance of the Interior.-Kissing the Floor and Steps in the Bom Jesus.
-Plate in the Paula. -Mine-finders.
April 5. Palm Sunday was never ushered in by a more inspiring morning. Not a patch of curtain hides an object on
earth or heaven. Nature has thrown aside her shuttle, and refused to weave a single yard of floating gauze. Every mountain rears its sides and crests in brightness, and there is a bracing, balmy influence in the atmosphere that makes the soul tingle with pleasure.  At breakfast, Doina B, Miss C,
and old Senhora P —- came in from  confession, and I could
not but again admire the system by which impressible natures
are relieved by empiric formulas from present anxieties and future fears. They laughed and chatted with such a juvenile
lightness that St. Anthony himself might have joined them in a
coranto.
I walked out to observe the customs of the day. The streets
were alive with peddlers, and tradesmen as busy in their shops as
yesterday. Overtook a lady on her way to church, accompanied




218                 SKETCHES OF
by a slave in livery, with a tall, tufted stem of palm, adorned
with ribbons, in either hand. Kindred offerings were going up
Castle Hill to the Capuchins. A gorgeous bouquet, large as a
bushel measure, was beautifully arranged around the upper end
of a straight palm stem. At either side, on separate stems, and
borne by separate slaves, were two diamond-shaped fields of
velvet green, with nosegays in the centres, and flowers and ribbons at the angles-the offerings of three young ladies who preceded them.
In Rua da Gloria strange sounds came from an alley, as if a
host of innocents were being murdered. On nearing the Lapa
Church, I first saw what produced them.  Here were two negroes making, and a negra selling palm trumpets-pretty toys,
that vary in length from eight to eighteen inches; some plain
and straight, others decorated and curved like the rams' horns
of the tabernacle. They are made by coiling palm-leaf ribbons
upon themselves. Their music is surprisingly imitative of agitated geese and goslings, and of sucking-pigs in search of lost
mothers.
I peeped into the Lapa vestry, where four monks sat at a table amid piles of palm branches, which they aspersed with holy
water. One gentleman counted down a dozen vintems and received six leaves in exchange.  Both sexes crowded round the
merchants and kept them busy.  "Blessed" palms are reputed
" good for keeping demons out of dwellings."
Soldiers at the door of the Imperial Chapel induced me to
step in. Two rows of halberdiers formed a passage along the
middle of the floor, and presently the vestry door (near the
street) was opened, and out came the bishop and a dozen padres, one bearing his train, and swept up to the altar, where
they took their turns at courtesying and other strange posturemaking.  They finish, and a chant of females breaks forth;
so any stranger would have thought who was not in a position
to see them, and so I thought till I got a view of them.  They
were Italian eunuchs-presents from Mother Church at Rome to
her Brazilian daughter.
The bishop sprinkled and prayed over bundles of plain and
ornamental palms; then he and a score of priests, each with a
branch in hand, came, in slow procession, to the door, and pass



LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   219
ed out. Taking a short turn on the platform in front, they returned to the door, which had in the mean time been closed,
and, knocking, were readmitted, when they passed up to the altar chanting appropriate verses. Their re-entry symbolizes the
triumphant entrance of Jesus into Jerusalem. The ceremony
is the same in all the churches. When the emperor is present,
he goes out with the bishop and raps for readmission. The affair was rather flat, and the attendance meagre. A low bench
was prepared for twelve poor men to sit on while the bishop
washes their feet. The operation took place while I was next
door in the Carmo temple, whose interior might have been taken
for a London or Paris ball-room. Tall boards, with angels
painted on them, were fitted up at the entrance, precisely like
the side-scenes in theatres.  It is an old custom to show up
at this festival all the sacred plate, and hence the front of the
long counter-looking altar was covered with panel-work of
embossed silver; tripod candelabra alternated with silver-gilt
vases, and eight massive lamps of the same metal were pendent from the ceiling. The Lady of Carmo shone in a blaze
of silver.
I had been advised to look into the Benedictine monastery,
but the ceremonies were over and the congregation coming down
the hill as I began to climb it-a crowd of handsome, smiling,
black-eyed ladies and their children, and such a display of
chains, frontlets, ear and finger rings as I have seldom seen.
Having got so far, I went up. By closely observing the chapel
walls, angels are perceived peeping out of the forest of old gilt
scroll-work.  This elaborate carving is dated "1694."  The
cherubs are in legions, from ten to twelve inches in height, in
every imaginable position, flesh-colored, and four fifths in relief
— probably of Dutch origin, for every one has the anasarca in his
body and the elephantiasis in his limbs.
Passing into the interior area, noticed on my first visit, there
was a singular sight, considering the day and place. Besides
friars and other lookers on, some fifty carpenters, designers, carvers, painters, and machinists were busy among lumber, ladders,
benches, canvas, and paint-pots.  A negro, with chalk and compasses, was making fancy ornaments, another sawing out similar ones. Here were skeleton columns, and there men, with




220                 SKETCHES OF
brushes three feet long, coloring scrolls and flowers upon canvas stretched on the ground-stage-scenery in every stage of
progress.
Surely these monks might be mistaken for venerators of an
English saint whose image is in Stratford Church.
6th. Rain from morn to night-no going out. None but ecclesiastical spectacles are sanctioned this week. Marriages are
not allowed; balls and kindred entertainments are forbidden;
table delicacies suppressed, and macerated saints invoked:
hence, if this and following chapters are heavy, the reader may
suppose it would have been improper to make them alegre'.
Church advertisements abound. " The brotherhood, and all
who venerate the Disaffronted Image, are informed that the
Church of the Cross will be open on Holy Thursday from sunset to midnight." " The brotherhood of our Lady of Lampadoza will celebrate the Passion on Friday, and the coronation
of Our Lady on Saturday."
" In the Church of St. Sebastian, Holy Week will be celebrated with all the rites prescribed by Holy Mother Church.
On Holy Friday will be a devout exercise at noon, celebrated
in this city for the first time... This sublime exercise, so becoming the Christian, has merited the attention of all, especially that of the holy pontiff, Pius VII., who granted a plenary
indulgence to the faithful that confess on Holy Thursday, take
the communion, and practice this holy exercise according to the
intentions of the holy father. The faithful must not neglect to
profit by this treasure of heaven that is offered with such liberality," etc.
The last is a specimen of Capuchin announcements. Much
feeling exists in the native clergy against the order, but they
are, notwithstanding, operating successfully in town and country, chiefly, it is said, by the novelties they have brought over.
A couple of their images have, to my knowledge, got, within a
few weeks, necklaces of votive heads, feet, necks, hearts, etc.proofs of miraculous cures just wrought by them. It is a common remark that " three things are making the women madmasked balls, polka, and the Capuchins."
8th. Dark Wednesday, when lights are extinguished in the
churches, and mischievous youngsters play tricks with female




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   221
worshipers.  In the evening I scaled the Benedictine Hill after
tacking to and fro, without which none but agile goats or other
natural climbers can get up. The ceremonies had just begun.
For an hour the organ played and the monks behind it chanted.
The chapel was gloomily lit up by a theologic candelabrum peculiar to the day.  It consisted of a strip of bar iron bent into
a large equilateral triangle, the interior filled with open scrollwork. The base was supported on a pedestal or stand, and on
each of the two converging sides were seven sockets, and one at
the apex. In these were fifteen candles, forming a pyramidal
light. At length one of the lowest was put out, then, in a little
while, the one opposite to it, and so on till the whole were extinguished except the top one; finally it shared the fate of those
below it, and the place was in utter darkness. There was, of
course, an increase of bustling and tittering; but scarcely a
minute elapsed before a few lights were kindled.
The affair went off quieter than I expected, but on coming out
a band struck up whose music was enough to awaken the seven
sleepers and throw a dozen Mozarts into apoplexy.  The rattling, deafening clatter of matracas, mingled with the squealing
of palm bugles, might have defied any Sus concert in Kentucky.
Thus ended Dark Wednesday.
This putting out of lights in churches - an old medieval
practice-is in imitation of the sun being darkened at the Crucifixion.
The Ajuda chapel door being open as I passed this morning,
I stepped in for a moment. No one present except a lad in a
roundabout jacket, and a young man of very stunted growth,
with large head, coarse, dark features, and splay feet, reminding
one of Bertholde the Lombard. Dressed as a priest in a russet surplice, he was rehearsing at one of the side shrines. He
said nothing - all was pantomimic. He bowed, courtesied,
moved back, stepped forward, and mixed quite a number of
other motions with these. Now he seemed to read, anon pushed the book aside, turned to the lad behind him and received
something out of a cloth-a cup. He raises it, sets it down,
wipes it with a napkin, folds and places the latter on it, elevates
it again, brings it down, steps back and courtesies to it, etc.
Poor fellow! He is, I am told, a merFeeiro (which the dic



222                 SKETCHES OF
tionaries tell us means " a person hired to say prayers for the
souls of the dead"), and was earning a couple of patacas by
going through a mass for a soul lately departed, whose friends
had no more to give. He had got permission to perform it
here, had borrowed the requisite apparatus, and picked up the
lad to render the necessary assistance. His tonsure and official drapery heightened rather than diminished the oddness of
his appearance. The alb had surely been loaned him or bought
at second-hand, being half worn out, and any thing but a fit,
while the buckles on his shoes might have served Goliah, had
they been in fashion in King David's time.
I had supposed such persons were excluded from serving at
altars. To say the least, the prohibition would be politic where
so much dumb show is executed, and by performers with their
backs to spectators-an undesirable frontage to have every the
minutest motion and posture scanned. Public worship addressed to the sight must, like less reverent pantomime, be
judged of by the eye.
On reaching the end of the street (Ajuda), an old red cloth
hanging in the doorway of the Lady do Parto induced me to
step in. With little, except being perceptibly enceinte, to distinguish her from other Pao Senhoras, she is the Juno Lucina of Rio, to whom applications and acknowledgments are made,
and precisely such as were addressed to her pagan prototype.
Her apartments consist of this small and dark room, with no
ornaments but its images; the walls are bare, and the floor
level with the narrow and dirty street. Here are but two other images-both females. One, tall and stout, is attended by
two full-grown monks (de pdo) in white gowns. The other is
Nossa Senhora das Merces.  " Merce is a term of civility: it
means courtesy, favor, kindness." The lady personifies one or
more of these. Brazilians are remarkably ceremonious, having
great devotion, as the expression is, to " Our Lady of Civilities."
Some twenty ladies were within, apparently waiting for a
confessor.
9th, h1oly Thursday. Matracas have been named; they are
instruments which probably date from as remote times as any
thing employed in the Church, and, as such, are worth noticing.




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   223
They are never used but during Passion Week. For several
days I have met boys with them, and this morning a negro sent
out by the Candelaria sexton came along announcing the parish
festival with one. I took the opportunity to examine this venerable sacerdotal rattle.  Here it is, and the genius playing on
it-a piece of hard board, twelve inches long
and six wide, with an oblong opening at the
upper end for the fingers that grasp it, and a
vertical clapper of bronze jointed in the midi   dle. It is carried suspended by the right hand,
and by twisting and turning it to and fro, the
knocker hits the board at every movement.
___      Some have a knocker at each side, by which
the number of blows and amount of clattering
are doubled.
Others are made wholly of wood. I met a couple of these
to-day.  A piece of rose-wood board, three inches
square, with a handle, as at c. Two flapping pieces
nearly the size of the blade are attached loosely by
a cord, as at the cross section, d. They make a
loud, snapping noise.
In the Middle Ages bells were not rung during Passion
Week, because the apostles deserted Christ.
The'Candelaria being within a stone's throw, I found it
thronged.  The front of the altar, beneath the shrine of Our
Lady, was removed, exposing a " dead Christ" extended within.
As I got up, a gentleman who had been adoring it arose and
drew back; a negro girl then falls on her hands and knees,
creeps to the exposed hand and kisses it, showing the muddied
soles of her bare feet to every eye.  She rises, drops a vintem
into a mammoth salver, courtesies, and retires.  Two white
lads, ragged and dirty as clam-boys, speak a few words to each
other, cross themselves, fall on their knees, and creep forward
together; one waits till the other salutes the hand, and then
wriggles himself forward and takes his turn: each drops in a
vintem. Next comes a lady, with a female slave behind her;
drops on her knees, and for half a minute prays and crosses
herself, rises, drops some vintems, and goes away.  She won't
kiss the hand on which so many black mouths have been al



224                 SKETCHES OF
ready rubbed, and she is right, for I've seen enough diseases on
black faces here to justify her.
I was about to leave, when a feeble and purblind negra crept
forward to the feet; putting in her head, she pressed her lips
to them a dozen times. Then turning to the hand, she fondled
it, kissed it, laid her left cheek on it, then her right one; then
drew both sides of her face over it, and again rested them on
the open palm. She seemed unwillingly to give place to others waiting.  I think some one gave her a hint, for she reluctantly rose, put a copper acknowledgment in the salver, courtesied three times down to the floor, and went her way. She
was succeeded while I remained by a score of devotees of both
sexes, of whom half were whites. On mentioning her case to
a devout lady, I was told she most likely had some troublesome
disease in her face, which she, in common with thousands, believed would be expelled by placing it in contact with the Holy
Image.
Formerly no white person performed this act of devotion
without first taking off their shoes. This is not now required,
though some practice it. The great majority, however, are barefooted worshipers, viz., slaves.
The train of serious thought which the performance might
induce is dissipated by the chattering and bustling about of
alb'd brethren, arranging candles and flowers at one place, giving instructions to decorating artists at another. But, however
annoying this might be to some people, worshipers a-re not
troubled by it here. I stood for some time beside a man on
his knees: every now and then he looked about-his eyes now
on the sacristan, and now turned behind to watch some one
that swept past him; then taking a general gaze, and finding
nothing particular to see, he hawked, spat on the floor, and began again to finger his beads. A gray-headed slave, with a
large basket on his head, came within the door, made a leg to
the altar, scooped up almost a gill of holy water and discharged
it on his head; again making a cup of his hand, he poured an
equal quantity on the contents of the basket, stood a moment,
and gave his vegetables a second dash.
But night is the best time to witness Church festivals. I
called in here this evening, and after counting seven hundred




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   225
waxen lights about the altar, gave up the task. There were
ten or eleven hundred burning in the place, all in costly candlesticks. Whites and blacks thronged about the. prone image:
three ladies knelt and kissed the wooden hand immediately after
it had been touched by negro lips.
The enterprising brethren of " Born Jesus" hold their reunion
not far off. We may as well look in. Here's the place. Those
half dozen mustached, bare-headed soldiers parading before the
door, handling and ptiffing cigars, might be taken for old matchlock heroes blowing their lints preparatory to firing off their
pieces. But let's push by the crimson screen and enter. Well!
this would be a sight if one had not just seen greater. The
tapestry is showy, but much worn; the flowers, in vases, are
pretty and in plenty, but the candlesticks are wood, and the
best ones gone-no, not all; for at the railing gate stand two
that might be compared with the richest in the Candelaria or
Carmo. They are alb'd brothers holding five-foot torches, reminding one of similar candelabra in the halls of feudal barons.
Here was more bowing, kneeling, courtesying, kissing, and
leg-making going on than in the Candelaria, though no image is
placed within reach of the worshipers. For want of one, they
kissed the floor, steps, carpeting, and penny pictures on the
valls.  A gentleman (I was told he was a dry-goods' merchant)
rose from his knees near me, went directly to the right wall, and
put his mouth to something on it; next, crossed himself, went
to the railing, then knelt and kissed the step (not the altar-step,
but one where the nave is separated from the choir or chancel);
getting up, he made a leg and crossed over to the opposite wall,
and kissed something there, four or five feet above the floor;
and yonder he is, again standing on his toes, his neck stretched
to the uttermost, trying to reach a higher object with his lips.
It was not till after three trials that he succeeded and withdrew.
The first object of his devotion was an engraving of the Virgin,
the oldest and coarsest thing of the kind I have yet seen. A
piece of glass was before it, so that he kissed it and not the
picture.  The frame, print, and glass could not have cost five
cents. The second object was a saint on an alms-box, and the
third a framed print similar to the first in style and finish.
Next, two negroes drew up through the middle of the audience
P




226                 SKETCHES OF
and kissed the floor, then the step. Three white men and one
woman followed them. The filthy condition of the soles of the
negroes contrasted strangely with a pair of new pumps a dandy
of a man turned up a little way from them. At one time five
men and two women were before me with their mouths on the
floor. Not feeling much edified by these groveling scenes, I
turned toward the Paula. The steps in front swarmed with
negras, selling fruit and doces to exhausted worshipers. The
altar was gorgeous as that of the Carmo; but the greatest novelty was the contents of two silversmiths'-shops, piled on tables at each side of the altar, and guarded by musketeers.
Here were trays, ewers, basins, pitchers, and other things, besides some large caldron-looking vessels whose use was not
apparent. Of trays alone I counted over forty, most of which
were not less than three feet long, and of proportional width.
What this meant I could not imagine, not dreaming that the
whole could belong to one church, but it was even so. The
Paula brotherhood is very wealthy, and surpasses others in this
branch of devotion.
After visiting two or three smaller temples without observing
any thing special, I turned home. Near the door of the Lapa
the monks had got a piano, on which a lay professor was playing to the chanting of two young friars.
According to the old philosophy, children born between noon
to-day and twelve o'clock to-morrow will be natural mine-finders, endowed with the faculty of seeing seven yards through
solid earth.
All holy wafers and water are used up to-day; none must
be left over till to-morrow.




LIFE  IN BRAZIL.                     227
CHAPTER XX.
Good Friday.-Capuchins preaching.-Burial of God.-Dresses and Jewels of the
Angels.-Allelulia Saturday.-Blessing Fire and Water.-Paschal Candle.Killing Judas.-Church Machinery.-Cinerary Urns and Commemoration of
the Dead.-Symbols carried by Angels.-Boy Monk. —Little Prospect of Protestant Missions succeeding in Brazil.-Mary of Nazareth.
April 10, Good Friday. The morning light at six o'clock
is not sufficient to read by, and soon after that hour in the evening darkness sets in.
Four great processions are announced for to-day, if the weather
prove favorable. At 10 A.M. rain came down heavily; at 1
P.M. it ceased.
I strolled up Castle Hill to witness some new performances
announced by the Capuchins. Seventy or eighty persons, mostly women and children, were waiting for the service to begin.
Suddenly the profound silence was broken by a loud hammering
that knocked all meditation on the head-carpenters fitting up
a scaffold for musicians, six of whom soon came in, with a bassviol, two violins, a couple of flutes, and a clarionet. One of the
preachers emerged from the vestry. Bless me! I exclaimed to
myself, how like the pictures of his class I have seen! There
is something unpleasant in his appearance, independent of a
coarseness that of itself is any thing but agreeable. A shaven
crown, a reddish peaked and matted beard, uncovered neck and
exposed sternum, bare legs, and feet pushed into slip-shod wooden slippers, large and hairy hands, and his only garment a brown
serge gown, tied round his middle with a cord, from which hangs
a string of beads. Then there is the ugly hood or cowl flapping behind, turned back like the hinged cover of a coffee-pot
or tankard.
The music struck up, and two monks began a chant, during
which the people knelt, and the friar just described got into a
box pulpit, which, like all pulpits here, is so placed that the
speaker does not lose sight of the images, or turn his back to
them or the altar. As the chanting ceased he rose to speak,




228                 SKETCHES OF
and every now and then broke into long wailing ejaculations of
"Madonna " "Nossa Senhora!" "Sangue " "'llizericorGia!" "I7eridas!" etc.; turning occasionally and pointing to
the images. As he warmed, his gesticulations became energetic.
He leaned over the edge of the box till his wide-spread hands
nearly touched the shoulders of devotees below him; then stepping back, he threw his head, his eyes, and, to the utmost, his
arms, up to the ceiling-the very action of a nurse lifting an infant from the floor, and holding it at arms' length above her.
There was one novelty in his manner which struck me rather
favorably. As he finished each telling passage, he sunk, and
not ungracefully, into his seat, where he remained half, and sometimes a whole minute, till fresh ideas rose in him. He rarely
spoke five minutes without sitting down; occasionally he gave
out a sentence in that position, with one hand on the edge of the
pulpit, and the other applying a handkerchief to his perspiring
face; but the instant a new view of the subject, or a touching
thought occurred, he started up, and put it into glowing language, i. e., if one might judge by his excitement. I suppose
his hearers were affected, though they gave no visible sign of
being so. Possibly the indifferent Portuguese in which these
Italian apostles are said to deliver themselves diminishes the
effect of their elocution.  He had no book nor notes about him.
I began to tire, and thought of leaving, but another friar stepped into the speaking-box, older and stouter than his predecessor, with a darker beard and fairer skin. His action was confined
chiefly to his head, combined with a singular power of drawing
down his neck into his body, and suddenly pushing it up again.
Seated or standing, his head rose with his ideas and his voicenow buried'beneath his cowl, now half a foot above it, and still
rising.
A slight rain was falling, which I preferred encountering to
remaining longer. As I came in sight of Dereita Street, the
sound of music came up, and shortly after appeared, some two
hundred feet below, the Mizericordia Procession of the Burial.
f reached the Hospital in time to witness its order and arrival.
The unpleasant weather had reduced the number of spectators.
The performers were drabbled, and seemed anxious to get indoors.




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                  229
First came a man with a powerful matraca; then a young
monk in a white hood
and tippet, both in one:
the latter went all round
him, and reached to his
elbows; the former was
bound round his head
with a new hempen rope..=.    a:  I,>~ ~  I He carried before him a
-__:'~i!~?_:=_    a/ - w'..black wooden cross, over
__ o=         = ~ii~     the transverse bar of
which a white cloth was
___ 0'""       /   thrown in the form  of
the letter M, to signify death —LWorte.  The
cloth is supposed to be the one in which the body of Christ was
enveloped by Joseph of Arimathea. A number of monks, draped
like the cross-bearer, follow. Then came brothers in white
gowns, bearing candles; and after them angels, with wings and
a colored gauze cloud attached by wire to the shoulders of each.
Next three women (or men disguised as such), representing " the
three Marys."  They were concealed in gowns and hoods, with
their faces bent toward the ground, and had a mournful appearance. A large ring of silver was attached to the head of each,
to represent a halo.
The bier, more like a French bedstead, came next. On a
mattress lay a " dead Christ"-one of those exposed in churches. The whole was borne by four monks on two staves, whose
ends rested on their shoulders.  Each carried a pronged stick
to support the load, at intervals, when all stand to hear an angel-chant. They wore hoods, and tippets, and hempen cords
by way of ribbons.
More angels, led by brothers, came next, followed by the tallest of their number, a girl of fourteen, who mounted a pair of
steps, and, chanting, opened a white cloth, the handkerchief of
Veronica, whom she represented. She performed the part exceedingly well, notwithstanding the thick drizzling rain. Stepping down, the brother took up the steps, and all went forward
again. Now came brothers, monks, and candles; angels, monks,




230                 SKETCHES OF
and brothers; and then "Nossa Senhora," erect, large as life
in purple dress, silver rays on her forehead, and standing on t
stage richly paneled, and set off with cypress, but no flowers.
Borne, as the bier was, on men's shoulders, she might be seer
over the heads of the people a mile off.
The band of music, more brothers in white albs, and bearing
candles, came next, and last of all the soldiery. In the hurry
to get out of the rain, Nossa Senhora was nearly knocked off
her base. Her head came slap against the door-jamb, in consequence of the bearers on one side not lowering her from their
shoulders in concert with their comrades. After the doors were
closed, the leader once more worked his matraca, whose sounds
died gradually away in the extensive interior. The soldiers now
put on their caps, and, with reversed arms, were marched to their
barracks.
The rain so increased that no one supposed any other pageant
would take place.  The Carmo one did not; but the Paula
brotherhood, who excel in these things, after waiting in vain till
six o'clock for clear weather, determined not wholly to disappoint the public, the angels, and themselves. Arranging mat
ters as well as they could, in large apartments connected witl
the church, the Pomp emerged from the side passage, where th(
waxen ex votos were, on the front stoop or platform, and pacint
slowly along it to the main entrance, turned in, proceeded to
ward the high altar, and thence, through a side door, into th




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   231
interior again. The last spectacle of the kind I ever expect to
see, I shall preserve a few particulars, although, excepting the
superior style in which it was got up, it differed little from that
of the Mizericordia. The managers being wealthy and ambitious of outshining other establishments, their angels are allowed to be the handsomest, and, with their saints, to have the best
fit-outs. While others call hardly draw an audience, they command full houses.
The church was darkened, the glimmering of a solitary candle barely preventing persons from running against each other.
Only when a new-comer, or one whose patience in waiting was
worn out, pushed the crimson screen in the door-way momentarily aside, did sufficient light flash in to enable us to distinguish the faces of those close by us. The place was three
fourths full of people (no females), all moving and muttering
like so many discontented phantoms.
At last the sound of a distant rattle came from the interior;
it drew nearer, ceased, and soon after was heard as if in the
street, when those with umbrellas rushed forth and met the
bareheaded musicians and soldiers stepping out of the side passage upon the platform or long stoop, along which the troops
formed a passage to the church door.  There came forth a
swarm of candle-bearers, who, with undignified speed, hastened
in again through the front door. They were followed by a monk
in a white long gown and hood-the latter bound round his temples with a half-inch rope-bearing a black cross, on which a
towel formed the letter MI. More candle-bearers, then brothers
and a legion of angels; over the heads of several their guardians
held umbrellas.  Next, a neat pedestal was brought forth and
placed on the flagging. An angel came, and, being lifted up,
chanted a strain on the sufferings of the Savior, unfolding from
a roller, as she sung, a piece of white muslin full six feet long,
on which was depicted a full-length figure of Christ. This she
turned gracefully round that all might see. Her voice was
sweet and plaintive, and the little performance quite affecting.
Veronica's handkerchief took a likeness only of the Savior's
face, but the cloth his body was laid in received an impression
of the whole. It was a copy of the latter that the little songstress unrolled before us.




232                 SKETCHES OF
She passed in and made way for the bier, or Golden Bed.
upheld by monks in white hoods and cassocks. A "dead
Christ" lay on it, partially covered by a rich counterpane. "The
three Marys" followed weeping, dressed in long russet gowns
and close hoods, and handkerchiefs in their hands. Their halos
seemed made of bobbin wire, and might any where else have
been taken for the frames of caps or bonnets. Next came Saint
John and Mary Magdalene: she is one of the preceding trio,
being twice represented. In the Carmo procession the Proph/ets
attend as mourners.
Next three suspicious-looking, bare-armed chaps in steel caps
drew up-Roman executioners. Behind them walked the centurion in gorgeous array-golden helmet, scarlet tunic, a staff
surmounted by an eagle, and all the insignia of an ancient military officer. The character was well conceived, but spoiled by
attempts to make it gigantic.  The person of this actor was
swelled by stuffing, and, from the vibration of the upper part, his
head was clearly within the breast of the figure; the face was a
mask. The helmet and metal ornaments were too heavy to be
controlled by the artificial neck and shoulders. He passed on
quickly, but stumbled on ascending the only step at the front
door, and would have fallen but for St. John, against whose
back he staggered.
Flocks of angels now flitted past us. Ere they had disappeared, the image of " Our Lady" was out on the stoop and exposed to the rain.  Similar in size and outline with her sister
of the Mizericordia, between the rays of her crown were seven stars. The most attractive person in the Pomp, the managers allowed her to remain full five minutes in the storm.
Nothing common is put on her, her dress and jewels being of
the most costly material.
Parents commonly send a confidential person with their angels, who is careful not to lose sight of them, on account of the
jewels on their persons and dresses. The breast-piece of one was
almost covered with diamonds. A doctor last year decked out
his daughter so gorgeously, and chiefly with borrowed gems,
that he would not trust her even in the vestry without an attendant.  If a father belongs to the brotherhood, he can accompany his child in the procession; if not, no. It is a rule that
none but a Church brother must lead an angel.




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   233
11th. Allelulia Saturday-the end of Lent: the day when the
saints throw off their mourning, and the screens before the images are withdrawn-when bells begin to ring again, and matracas, their substitutes during Passion Week, are put away for
another year-when scores of Judases are torn to pieces, and
when the annual consecration of fire and water takes place.
At noon I went to the Paula Church to witness the performances, but found it so dark within and crowded, that I was glad
to get into the vestry, where people with bunches of rosemary
were waiting to have them aspersed with the new holy water.
I subsequently procured a seat in the music-gallery, where, besides the old organ, there were one bass and two kettle-drums,
violins, clarionets, French-horns, trumpets, &c., waiting to strike
up the moment the ceremonies ended. The process of consecration was, as follows: The baptismal font being filled, the officiating padre put his hand into or on it, making the sign of the
cross in the action. Next he waved three crosses over the surface, in the name of each person in the Trinity, saying, "By
this [sign] I bless thee creature water-By the living God [a
cross]-By God [a cross] most true-By God [a cross] most
holy-By God who in the beginning of the world divided thee.
from earth."  Then he breathed three times upon it, making the
sign of the cross in the act of blowing, and exclaimed each time,
" The virtue of the Holy Ghost descend upon this water."  He
dropped oil from a minute vial cross-wise on it, and dipped the
vial itself in, saying, " The infusion of our Lord Jesus Christ
and of the Holy Ghost is made in the name of the most Holy
Trinity." He then took a portion of the water up and threw
it toward the four quarters of the earth. When he got through,
the attending officials sprinkled themselves and the spectators
near them.
Water being thus made holy, it was employed in the consecration of fire.  The Cirio, or " Great Paschal Candle," a very
large and elaborately ornamented one, is the principal object in
this ceremony. I wonder the Church on these occasions does
not follow the universal practice of antiquity in both hemispheres, and introduce new fire-draw it direct from the sun by
lenses, from wood by the friction of two sticks, or produce it
afresh from flint and steel. Instead of this, the custom is




234                  SKETCHES OF
to prepare three triune candles, each
consisting of three tapers longitudinally united, to represent the unity of the
Godhead in a trinity of persons. One
is placed near the entrance, another
half way to, and the third at the altar.  They are lit, and all others carefully extinguished.
The priest takes the Cirio, and with
51,11     the usual ceremonies baptizes it at the
font.  He drops chrism and baptismal
oil from vials on the water; breathes
three times over it, not cross-wise now,
but as if forming with his breath the
letter Y.  He dips the lower end of
the Cirio a little in, raises it,'and
plunges it farther down a third time,
and it reaches the bottom of the font.
Each movement is accompanied with
similar expressions to those used in
sanctifying the water. It now is lit at
one of the triune tapers, placed on the
high altar, and the other lights kindled at its flame.
After baptism  the Litany of the
Saints was said, and then mass, as on
Palm Sunday.  When the officiating
padre came to the words "Allelulia,
allelulia, allelulia," the bells struck up
a merry peal, music in the gallery
burst forth, screens before the images
dropped, and the building, hitherto almost dark, is instantly illuminated,
and resounds with chants of " God is
risen from the dead."  Every face is
radiant with smiles, and the day is
spent in pleasure. Now the agoa-benta basins are replenished, and families send bottles and tumblers to be filled to sprinkle their children and friends. Some




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                         235
preserve the fresh liquid as a preservative against many complaints.
The padres of the various city churches wait for a signal
from the Imperial Chapel where the bishop officiates. As soon
as he arrives at the " Allelulia," rockets are sent up.  Priests
contrive to be near that part of the service, and ready, on hearing the guns, to utter the joyful words.
On returning, I stepped into the Imperial Chapel. The cir'io
was standing in an antique-fashioned candlestick of silver, four
feet or more high.  The candle was about the same length, four
inches in diameter, and beautifully painted over its entire surface. The. figure given is from a sketch taken at the time.*
Upon leaving, I fell in with half a dozen negroes carrying live
turkeys with blue ribbons on their necks. They were "Allelulia presents," gobbling innocents being as much in demand
now as in New England on Thanksgiving Day.  Next I overtook a band of youthful devotees-blacks and whites-hoarse
* In olden times the Paschal taper at Westminster Abbey was three hundred
pounds' weight. Sometimes a wax-light called a serpent was used; the name derived from its spiral form, being wound round a rod. To light it, fire was struck
from aflint consecrated by the abbot. In the cathedrals every taper was extinguished, in order that new fire might kindle a parent torch at which the rest were
ignited.




236                 SKETCHES OF
with uttering comminations on the fallen apostle, perspiring and
exhausted with punishing him.  These young zealots were
"killing Judas." The preceding illustration conveys a correct
idea of this " act of devotion."
One, after being dragged through mud and mire, and thrashed and stoned till little like a human form remained, was stuck
up in Hospicio Street. Another I saw hanging from a lamppost, and before reaching home I passed the limbs of several
more. Some practical joking is occasionally played off by dressing the figure after an obnoxious character. A few years ago.
a British minister, on account of his opposition to the slavetrade, was stoned, and thrashed, and hanged in effigy.
In the upper floors and passages of the Paula temple were
various kinds of ecclesiastical machinery. Painted boards like
side scenes of a theatre; images and angels-two of the latter
damaged in their wings; ladders, tressels, brackets, benches,
tablets, and a pile of waxen ex votos in a corner. Here were
some cart-loads of cinerary urns-I counted over a hundredmostly of rosewood, highly polished, locked, and labeled. Some
are fixed on short pedestals, with inverted torches, winged hourglasses, or other emblems of mortality. These receptacles of
the bones and ashes of the dead called up one of the most honorable and affecting customs of the Roman Church. On the
2d of November, these little chests are taken down and ranged
before the high altar, when mass is celebrated over them. That
day is the annual "Commemoration of the Dead."  Friends
come and sprinkle flowers on the vases, and weep over the ashes of their kindred.
A kindred custom was common with every classical and cultivated people of old. With the Chinese it is known as the
"Worship of Ancestors," at which offerings are made to the
manes of the dead, and masses performed for their repose. The
tombs are repaired and ornamented; candles and incense are
burned on them.
The practice accords with the best impulses of our natureis congenial to the tenderest and purest feelings.  Like other
primeval rites, traces of it are found among all people. The Indians of both Americas indulged it. The burial-grounds of
their ancestors were the last spots they would yield.




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   237
An officer led H-    and me into a spacious apartment, occupied from floor to ceiling with drawers and cases. Here were
locked up the most select of the pageant apparatus. Banners,
tapestries, plate, jewels, and dresses of the images, etc. Among
other matters, he showed us the symbols carried by angels in
rocessions.  I sketched each as he held it up, and noted h
processions. I sketched each as he held it up, and noted his
descriptions verbatim, thus:
1. The cup God drank out of.
2. The cold stone he sat on.
3. The torch they sought him with.
4. The lantern by which they found him.
5. The mailed hand that smote him.
6. The club that felled him.




238                 SKETCHES OF
7. The pillar he was tied to.
8. The cords that bound him.
9. The rod that beat him.
10. The cross he was nailed to.
11. The nails that fastened him on it.
12. The hammer that drove them in, and,
13. The pincers that drew them out.
14. The dice they threw lots with for his garments.
15. The bag containing the thirty pieces of silver.
16 and 17. Inscriptions.
18. The ladder by which he was taken down.
19. St.Veronica's handkerchief.
20. Santo Sudario-the holy towel he was folded in.
I met with another novelty. Three or four boys were playing about, and one, not over six years old, dressed as a monka black gown, white scapulary, buckles on his shoes, and an enormous white beaver, with the wide rim pressed close to his ears.
He raised it, and showed me the shaven spot on his crown. On
naming the circumstance, I was told such sights were formerly
very common, but that now there are not over a dozen lads in
Rio thus costumed. They are such as have been devoted by
one or both parents (often before they were born) to certain
saints, in acknowledgment of special favors received in answer
to anxious longings.  St. Anthony had befriended this lad's
mother, and to him the youngster has been made over and put
into his livery.
The more I see of this people, the more distant appears the
success of any Protestant missions among them.  Festivals
are obstacles that can not easily be got rid of. The masses
are too fond of them, and the national pulse beats in unison
with them; moreover, there are powerful classes interested in
maintaining them. Sundays, too, are universal seasons of recreation. Ladies laugh outright at the seriousness and alleged
long faces of English families passing to church as to a funeral.
To see them is enough to make one pity them! Protestants,
it is said, degenerate here. The British chapel never received
a native convert, while monks have drawn members from it.
The Episcopal Methodists have had a mission here for some
years, and have abandoned it. There is no ground on which a




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   239
missionary can meet the people. They avoid him as one with
whom association is disreputable, and they entertain a feeling
toward him bordering on contempt, arising from a rooted belief
in his ignorance and presumption. In their estimation, he and
his employers are no wiser in Church matters than the people
of Zago, who manured the foot of their steeple to make it grow.
Then the climate is against the severities ot northern sects.
Neither stringent Methodism nor Puritanism can ever flourish
in the tropics. The commerce of the country and its internal
trade are opposed to the overthrow of Romanism. Civil and
social relationships would be broken up, and thousands upon
thousands lose the means by which they live. No sudden conversion of a city ever occurred.
To preach against Romanism is as much treason against the
state as attempting to introduce the republican form of government, but the greatest of obstacles would probably be found in
the reverence paid to the Virgin.
Mary of Nazareth is the great goddess of Romanists. Her
deification was no chance matter, but the deliberate adoption
of a principle, which was too closely interwoven with the habits.
thoughts, and feelings of ancient nations to be at once torn away.
The most refined and the most illiterate of the heathen were
steeped in Polytheism. Every system of worship had its goddesses as well as gods, the one being held as essential as the
other. It was deemed the dictate of reason and of nature that
females should have deosas, to whom they could prefer petitions
peculiar to themselves, and such as they could not be induced
to make known to male deities, and here was found a prime
hinderance to the reception of Christianity. We can imagine
how the high-minded Lucretias and Virginias of Athens and
Rome would be shocked at the proposition to transfer their
petitions in the most delicate matters from the mother of the
gods to one whom they could at first only view as a Jewish
bachelor. A Madonna was therefore held necessary by the
early fathers of the Church, in order to overcome the scruples
of the sex, and she was realized in the exaltation of Mary.
Moreover, in making her " Queen of Heaven," the way was opened to associate with her other lady celestials, and to rival in that
feature also the court of Jove.




240                  SKETCHES OF
As "Our Lady" —her generic title-she is invoked by all,
because, as "the mother of God," she has unlimited influence
over her son, and, as " the mother of men," sympathizes with
mortals with feminine tenderness.  Hence she is honored at
festivals by having her statues carried in triumph, precisely as
were those of her prototype, the Magna deorum mater.
To make tile most of her, she is represented in an indefinite
number of characters, and named after the prominent attributes
of each; e. g., as N. S. da Saude, she occupies the place of
Salus in Rome and of Hygeia in Greece; as N. S. do Bom
Successo, she is pestered by the same class of worshipers that
thronged the old shrines of Fortune; as N. S. de Cabea, she
has succeeded Minerva; as the goddess dos Remedios and do
Succoro, she is consulted by the sick and those in distress; as
N. S. da Concei9ao and do Parto, by those of her own sex only,
and on special occasions. Even as the Lady of Navigators she
was anticipated by early marine people. The Chinese still have
their ancient protectoress of seamen, and have prudently associated with her two able assistants-the demigods of long sight
and large ears-"the thousand-mile-eyer" and "the favorablewind-hearer."
This remarkable multiplication of one person seems to be peculiar to Mary. I suppose it is but imperfectly understood by
Protestants; for one, I had no clear perception of it till I arrived
in Rio, and then it became interesting from furnishing additional evidence of the fact that, when heathenism was overthrown
politically throughout the Roman empire, the old deities were
retained under new appellations, and with them the cardinal
principle of adding to their numbers.
In Rio, Mary is held in the same enthusiastic reverence as
was the great Madonna of the Ephesians, nor could the city
be sooner thrown into an uproar than by a Protestant missionary publicly attempting to diminish her reputation. Silver
shrine-makers would, with one accord, rush out of Ourives
Street and address their fellow-workmen in the very words and
spirit of Demetrius, for the craft by which they live would verily be in danger if the great goddess should be despised and her
magnificence destroyed, whom all Asia and the world worshipeth. Then the armadors, costumers, carvers, painters, gilders,




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                     241
image-makers, and wax-chandlers, equally inflamed with wrath,
would add to the commotion, and render it next to impossible
for any town clerk to wrest the blaspheming babbler alive out
of their hands.
CHAPTER XXI.
Amulets: the Church a Mart for them.-Measures of Saints.-Royal Touches
and metallic Tractors.-Bentinhos.-Pictures of Saints.-Indulgences.-Hindoo
Pictures. - Portable Images. - Medals of Saints. - Bedini.-Symbols of the
Cross. - Crossing Manual. - Pieces of holy Rock.-Hippocanthus.-Figa.Ashes of Palm.-Rue.-Love Powder. - Sieve and Shears.-Curing the Bewitched.-Negro Witches.- Cures for Whitlows and Toothache. —The Evil
Eye.-Rio Poulterers troubled with it.-Horns quench it.
April 13. Worn by both sexes and all ages, charms and
Church amulets keep off the evil eye, hold demons at bay, and
arrest the natural course of events when unfavorable to the
wearers, just as they did when ignorance and credulity had the
world to themselves. The variety in vogue includes several
that did not fall in my way. I shall confine myself to such as
did. They might be divided into lay and religious, but both
are in a manner held sacred, those of heathen origin being
" blessed."  The Church, with the best intentions, but from a
mistaken policy, early sanctioned these things, and has added
a long list to the number. Her temples are marts for, and her
ministers the great dealers in them. A powerful and not unprofitable means of maintaining her hold over the unthinking
and simple, she has continued them till grown obsolete around
her, exposing herself to the charge of fostering delusions she was
ordained to eradicate. At every festival they constitute a prominent item of sacerdotal merchandise.
ilJeasures of Saints. —These are ribbons, cut by priests to
the exact length or height of their images, with the names
wrought or printed on them. Worn round the waist next to
the body, they remove pains, diseases, and otherwise promote
the wishes of their wearers. Females commonly wear those of
saints of their own sex, though those of Anthony, Braz, and
Gongalo are sometimes relied on. They are provided of all
qualities, to meet the wordly circumstances of all. Some are
Q




242                 SKETCHES OF
of velvet, with portraits of the saints wrought on them, and
some are strips of common tape. I received one —a present
from a priest-a blue and white ribbon, four feet long, with the
following inscription stamped on it: "iM. de N. S. da Ga"that is, Medida de Nossa Senhora da Gloria-not the lady on
Gloria Hill; she is a foot taller. The color varies with the
saint.
I had an opportunity of examining a smaller one, of narrow
red ribbon, blessed and sent by a priest to its fair owner the
day after the saint's festival. It was used to remove headache,
toothache, and other pains, by being wound round the parts affected, and, as was said, really did remove them. Of this there
is little room to doubt. Charms act on a principle recognized
from the earliest times-one which, by exciting the hopes, fears,
and faith of the impressible, has wrought wonders in all ages,
and will continue to work them.
I was not a little surprised a few evenings ago in hearing ladies speak of " measures of the Holy Ghost."  In reply to the
inquiry by what standards the lengths were determined, it was
said, " They are cut to no particular lengths, but are stamped
with the triangle and dove, and are found good for many complaints."  When E     a was about to sail to Rio Grande,
Dofia C-  gave her one, and told her to use it if attacked
with sea-sickness.
Having taken cold, accompanied with hoarseness, S-   offered to procure for me one of St. Braz's specifics; " but then
you must have full faith in it, or it may do you harm." This
medical saint is celebrated for the successful treatment of bronchial affections. A few days before the 3d of February, a priest
takes his measure with fine wire. A number of these medidas
are provided, also pictures of him, and little green tapers. At
his festival these are distributed to those who contribute to the
fete —a print to one, a candle to another, a measure to a third,
and, it may be,' one of each to a liberal donor. The directions
are, Fold the wire round the neck as often as it will go, and
make the ends fast; place an image or picture of the physician
on a table, light a bougie, place it before him, and-you will
get well.
I think faith in these fooleries is propped up in many minds




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   243
simply by habit; in others by the idea that, if erroneous, it is
complimentary to God and the saints, and, on that account, not
altogether unacceptable. Had Plutarch written yesterday, he
could not have hit off this people better than he has done in his
life of Nicias: " The people had a dislike to natural philosophers, supposing that they detracted fromn the divine power
and providence by ascribing things to insensible causes, unintelligible powers, and inevitable necessity."
That persons with nervous ailments, and constitutionally impressible, have been benefited by royal touches, metallic tractors,
and mesmerizers' fingers, is unquestionable.  They establish
the fact that strong faith in fictions, united with certain temperaments, can cure all that is curable by means of the imagination.  The virtue of touch in King Pyrrhus lay in the great toe
of his right foot. Pliny and Plutarch have recorded its cures.
Its nature was so divine that the funeral pyre had no power
over it; hence it was, after the death of its owner, preserved in
the temple, and the sick had recourse to it there.
Bentinhos.-I suppose there is hardly a Roman Catholic female in Brazil, from the empress to a negress, who does not
guard against invisible foes by wearing, in contact with her
person, a couple of these diminutive shields. A friend procured
for me a pair from the most esteemed fabrica, the convent of
Tereza. Two embroidered pads, an inch and a half square, are
connected by a double silk cord. On one is the Lady of Carmo and child, on the other a fanciful figure or flower. Passing the cords over the shoulders, one pad rests on the bosom
and the other at the back, thus protecting the wearer before and
behind. Large numbers are imported from Rome.
Pictures of Saints.-At the anniversary of a popular saint,
vast numbers of his portrait are, as has already been perceived,
exchanged in the Church for money or wax at an average profit
of one or two thousand per cent. I never saw one handed out
until the applicant dropped one or more vintems into the dish,
or laid down a candle. As specimens of the fine arts, there is
nothing remarkable about them. Commonly carried about the
person, they are worn out before the feast comes round again.
Besides some procured at festivals, I purchased an assortment
at a print-seller's, in which were John of Malta, Ursala, Luiz,




244                 SKETCHES OF
Crispin, also "N. S. da Immaculada Conceigdo, copied from
two pictures revealed from heaven, and conformable to the miraculous medal of Jesus, Mary, and Joseph."
Besides preserving them in books, pinning them to bed-curtains and chamber-walls, slipping them under pillows, etc., etc.,
they constitute a large class of amulets called " breves." Each
is folded into a small compass, commonly an inch square, sewed
up in minute bags, and worn next the body, like Bentinhos.
t understand Old Senhora P   has one of the Lady Conceigao
on her heart, and another of Anthony at her back.
To several the following is appended: "His Excellency the
most Reverend Bishop, Grand Chaplain to the Emperor, Don
Manoel do Monte Rodriques Araujo, on visiting the church
whose patron saint this image represents, conceded to all who
pray before this image one Paternoster and one Ave Maria forty
days of indulgence." In answer to inquiries, it was said the
indulged might eat meat on fast days, would be pardoned for
little sins they might commit, and if they died within the time,
would go direct to heaven, escaping Purgatory altogether.
Even for pictures of their deities Romanists are indebted to
the pagans. Thus the Poojarees, a sect of Hindoo priests, worshipers of the goddess MARIETTA, celebrate her praises with
chanting, and accompany their songs with a hand-bell, while
their wives keep time with castanets. " They also carry with
them pictures representing the goddess in various characters."
Portable Images. —These are occasionally of wood, but many,
itf not most, are of plaster of Paris.  H   and I met, a few
days ago, a girl in a black iron mask, and shortly after stopped
at a smith's open window, where slave-collars and chains were
hanging up for sale.  Close by, our attention was called to a
fabricator of things typical of other fetters-a sacred imagemaker.  Seated on the floor, with paint-pots beside him, the little man was surrounded with a regiment of six and seven inch
genii, to whose faces, cloaks, and cowls he was giving the last
finish. The Antonios were the most numerous. The street in
pagan Rome where such things were made was named Sigiliaria.
Jledals of Saints and of the Pope. —Little elliptical plates
of silver, brass, and tin. One of silver before me is so thin
that, though an inch and a half by an inch, the value does not




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   245
exceed ten cents. On the approach of feasts, dealers advertise
them. As long as they have not been consecrated they can be
offered at public sale, but when they have undergone aspersion
they can only be "exchanged."
By a judicious disposal of these trifles the clergy strengthen
no little their hold on the affections of the people. Bedini, the
new nuncio, has brought over a package. One of six, placed
by him at the disposal of a certain padre, is now before me. It
is of the size and value of a five-cent piece, and has on it the
effigies of Gregory XVI. Having been blessed by the Pope,
they are invaluable. The nuncio is unpopular, but he is adroit.
At Praya Grande, the other day, he met a child which he was
told belonged to Senhor B-, an influential lawyer, to whom
he had not been introduced. He put into its hands one of these
precious medals. The delighted parents are all his own.
Symbols of the Cross.-Nothing is more potent than these;
Ay   neither witches nor wizards can bear the sight of them.
Besides the ordinary figures, a very popular form of
this class of amulets is represented in the margin. By
i   it we learn that every person, in the absence of an artificial cross, has a potent one at his finger ends. It
shows the last movement in the crossing manual, or
self-blessing exercise, which consists of five distinct
acts when properly performed, thus: With the tip of
the right thumb-on no account must the left be used-you
touch the forehead, point of the nose, then the left, and next
the right temple. (This is the first act or cross.) Touch again
the nose, next the chin, and finish with the left and right sides
of the mouth. (The second.) Return your thumb to the chin,
remove it to the breast, and pass to each shoulder. (The third.)
With the open palm retouch the forehead, heart, and both
shoulders. (The fourth.) Lastly, turn the forefinger behind
the thumb, and press the latter to your lips.
Pieces of Holy Rock.-Soldiers, and particularly those of
the interior, protect themselves with amulets. I heard an officer
recount, with edifying fervor, how one saved his life, in direct
violation of a natural law.  He was ascending the River d'A1dea Velha, in Espirito Santo, with government dispatches, in a
canoe paddled by Indians. The current was strong against




246                 SKETCHES OF
them, and the water rough. They were upset, one or both Indians were drowned, but the relator, who could not swim, after
floating half an hour with the tide, reached the shore, he knew
not how. On drying his garments, he found a paper parcel in
his coat pocket-slipped in unknown to him by his wife-containing a small fragment of the " Penha," a mountain rock consecrated to the Virgin under the name of " Our Lady of the
Rock."  " That stone," said he, " kept me from sinking."
The Cavallo Mllarinho- hippocampus —is a favorite with
many.  This curious-looking little fish, when dried,
is worn next the skin, and is powerful in driving off
the headache as well as devils.  Some have it in
gold and silver.
The Figa.-One day I hinted that Chica, our little old African cook, had no amulet about her, as,
from her spare dress, I could not imagine where it
could be. It was said she certainly must wear one.
To settle the matter, she was called in, and, to my
surprise, drew from her bosom a bone figa. She said she wore
a tooth in the same way in her own country. The first money
a slave gets is expended on a figa, which is sometimes carved
out of rosemary root.
Ashes of Palms, consecrated on Palm Sunday, carried about
the person, protect the wearers from thunder and lightning.
The smoke arising from the combustion of the leaves expels
evil spirits from dwellings.
Rue retains its ancient property of keeping houses clear of
witches.  Whites and blacks have great faith in it as a bane to
sorcery and enchantments. Occasionally persons may be noticed kneeling before altars on which they have placed sprigs,
with the view of rendering them doubly efficacious. It is often
seen peeping out between the hair and head-gear of colored
women. A slip of rowan-tree or mountain ash was an old European charm.
love lPowders.-Some harmless dust, chiefly furnished by
blacks to slaves, who secretly drop it into their owners' or employers' food to procure better treatment. Indians in the northern provinces employ the milky juice of herbs with the same intent.




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   247
Sieve and Sh/ears.-Recovering lost goods by these is in
vogue, and with an addition that makes apostles abettors of
wizards.  When the cutting instruments are laid on the inverted sieve, and the conjurer has finished his imprecations, he calls
aloud, in a rhyming couplet, on
San Pedro and Paulo,
Phillippe and Diego,
to detect the thief and show where the stolen things are.
Process of curing the Bewitched.-It is a mercy that old
women in compact with the wicked one are not so numerous in
Rio as they once were. In the interior they are reported as
mischievous as ever. When a person imagines him or herself
possessed, he commonly gets a priest to make the sign of the
cross over him with a sprig of rosemary dipped in holy water.
Friars are preferred for this business; those of St. Anthony are
reputed the most successful. If possible, the afflicted must go
to the monastery, and enter the chapel with two or more monks.
After certain rites they converse with him, and judge from his
replies respecting the character of the demon and the place of its
expulsion. They are careful not to drive it out at the mouth,
lest the victim become dumb; nor at the ears or eyes, lest he
lose his sight or hearing; nor at an arm, hand, or leg, lest they,
become disabled; but, if possible, at the soles of the feet.
Negro Witches cure Patients given up by Friars.-My friend
the vicar had a lad long troubled with a bruised leg. The sore
resisted all his attempts to heal it. As a last resource, a colored " wise woman" was consulted. She raised a smoke of dried
herbs, muttered over the wound, made motions as if stitching
its lips up, put on a cataplasm of herbs, sent him home, and in
a week he was well. Another young slave had a diseased foot;
nothing seemed to do it good; and at length his owner gave
him leave to visit a dark sorceress, who talked to it, made signs
over it, rubbed it with oil, covered it with a plaster, and in a few
days he was sound too.
Ancient cures-worthy of Pliny-are still in vogue. Earthworms fried alive in olive oil, and applied warm as a poultice,
remove whitlows, which are common among blacks and whites.
Senhora Peres tells me she thus cured one of her slaves. The
same thing has been done in J —'s family.




248                 SKETCHES OF
A popular remedy for the toothache is thus prepared: A living chameleon is put into an earthen pot with a close-luted
cover, and baked to a cinder. A portion of this is crushed between the finger and thumb, rubbed over the gums, and put
into the carious cavity.  Senhor H   L —-, a senator from
St. Catharine's, found this efficient. His lady preserves the remaining cinder for future use.
The blacks have very similar recipes brought by them from
Africa.
2The Evil Eye.-People in Brazil still suffer from it.  Handsome children have fits and other complaints, induced by earthly
and unearthly beings envying their innocence and beauty; and
not hags and ogres only, but spruce ladies possess the unamiable
organ. When the hair of a female becomes prematurely gray
or drops off by disease, in nine cases out of ten the look of some
envious fair one has done it. A young lady in our neighborhood had recently tresses equaling Eve's in length and softness.
She has lost them, and says she knows too well which of her
acquaintances it was whose malicious glances have compelled
her to wear a cap.
When a stranger pats a child on the head, calls it pretty and
fair, etc., both nurse and parents would be troubled if he did
not conclude by asking God or the saints to bless it, that being
the proof that he meant it no harm-that he had not beefi observing it with the evil eye. The withering power is said to be
allied to that by which serpents draw fluttering birds into their
mouths; and that human victims, when once struck, sicken, languish, and, if not relieved, must sink into death's jaws.
Besides the numerous preservatives
( l;'-'  figured and described in preceding chapters, there are others, and among them
i   orns are not uncommon. I first noticed them  in Barbonnos Street, at a
| place where fruit, vegetables, and other
"  i:..   edibles were exposed for sale. A loose
pair of sheep's horns, painted with alC   _         1 viaternate bands of blue, red, white, and
yellow, hung against the side of the doorpost.  Inquiring for what purpose they




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                  249
were there exposed, the colored proprietress laughingly exclaimed, "To keep away the evil eye."  H    asked if she would
sell them, to which she gave a decided negative.
There is a cluster of dirty shanties and apologies for tents
near the Moura Fountain, in the vicinity of the landing-place at
Palace Square, at which fowls are always on sale, and commonly a monkey or two. One of them is kept by Antoine, an active Portuguese in middle life. As I commissioned him to procure a sloth, I was in the habit of looking into his den. He
had two pair of horns suspended over his coops. For my satisfaction, H   one day pointed to them, and asked what good
they did. With animation and immoderate gesticulation, he
told us how his neighbors of adjoining shanties used to envy
him for doing a greater business than they could get-how they
looked on him and his fowls with an evil eye, and caused many
to pine and die.
" How do they protect me! Why, when any one now looks
in to injure me, he sees them, and his envy is quenched.  He
recollects himself, and walks off fearful of chastisement-that
is, he is afraid of having a fit, of tripping himself up while walking and breaking a leg, of being choked when eating, or of some
other misfortune." It need hardly be said that Antoine's neighbors guard themselves and the health of their capons against
his glances by similar means.
Horns are also to be seen in Vendas. Faith in them seems
pretty general, except with those who have become disenchanted by contact with foreigners.
Antoine could recognize the wicked organ in a stranger or
any one else. Had he read Byron, he would oft exclaim,
"I know him by his pallid brow;
I know him by the evil eye
That aids his envious treachery."




CHAPTER XXII.
Begging for the Holy Ghost.-The Symbols.-Mr. Barboza.-An afflicted Mother.-The City agitated through Mistake.-San Jorge.-Market.-Church of
Peddlers.- Burying-ground of Heretics. - Small Water-craft. - Beeves of the
Sun.-Lady of Navigators.-Mozambique tribal Marks.-Church of Boa Viagem.-Ex Votos and Miracles.-Curious Lavatory.-View of the Harbor and
Mountains.-Alms-box.-Ships' Sails vowed to Our Lady, and sold on her Account.-Indian Boy.-Wax offered to Marine Deities by old Pagans. —Other
Heathen Types of Romish Customs.
April 17. Forty days after Lent the most popular of Brazilian festivals takes place-that of the Holy Ghost.  It is celebrated for several days in the Lapa, Rita, and Santa Anna churches, three competing establishments.  Each has sent out a band
of collectors, who for five weeks will canvass and recanvass
the city, suburbs, and  surrounding country.   They have already visited the shipping in the Bay with their cry, "Esmolas
Iparo   spirito Santo!"   Musicians always attend them, commonly negroes. The Lapa troop is composed of white barbers,
who to a man are reputed as expert handlers of violins and bu



SKETCHES OF LIFE IN BRAZIL.               251
gles as of lancets and razors.  They are hired at a higher rate
than their sable brethren.  While engaged this morning in
writing, Dofia H-   came running up stairs to urge me to descend.  " Quick! Here's the Holy Ghost coming up the Cattete.  Don't you want to see him?"  I am sure no one could
be more startled at such an announcement than I was, nor at
the unaffected simplicity with which it was made. I went
down, and,,looking out of the open window, asked "Where?"
" Gone into that venda" (a grocery half a block off), " but will
be out directly," replied half a dozen voices. In a little while
a negro band, consisting of two French horns, three drums, a
clarionet, and a fife, emerged, and recommenced a waltzing air
in the middle of the street.  Next appeared four white men, in
albs over their ordinary dress. Two had small crimson banners, on each of which was a figure of a dove in a triangle.
Another bore a little silver bird on a stand resembling a chamber candlestick. Like the banner-men, he also carried an almsdish. The fourth bore a capacious bag.
The minstrels, except when they leave it-as just now-to
take a drink, keep the middle of the street, and regulate their
steps to the progress of the alb-men on the side-walks; now
creeping, anon standing, and then dashing onward, the music
rising with their motions. The collectors call at every house,
but have occasion to knock at few, as the music draws the inmates out. Yonder a lady is throwing back a pair of latticed
blinds; a banner-man flies over, and burying for a moment her
face in the flag, she adds a contribution to his dish. Next door
a cluster of girls have got the little bird among them, and return it with vintems. A neighbor now takes a flag in, that
every member of his family may perform an act of devotion by
kissing it; and there, a Mozambique fruit-woman bathes her
face in its folds; her offering, two oranges, is dropped into the
bag, the receptacle of donations other than money-no, not for
all such, for the musicians have now come up, and, as I live,
the clarionet-player carries a live rooster under his arm, the
gift, probably, of some dealer in poultry. Of course it would
not do to put it among eggs, bread, fruit, and kindred quiet
things. Nothing is refused, from bank bills to a banana, or
half a yard of ribbon as a streamer for a banner-staff.




252                 SKETCHES OF
It is our turn now: one of the embroidered treasures comes
in at the window; all the ladies save one shrink from it. Senhora P     gives it the kiss of reverence.  In her zeal, poor
soul, and under the popular belief that it is a powerful charm.
she used it far too much like a pocket-handkerchief, rubbing
her eyes, face, neck, and bosom with it. I now perceived that
every Romanist does not care to become too intimate with such
things.  Some decline even to touch them.  I think I saw and
felt the cause, but shall not mention it at present. Opportunities will occur for verifying or dissipating my convictions. Pompey took the holy ensign to the kitchen to comfort Chica, the
old black cook; and, ere she got through with it, the polite
bearer cast anxious glances after it, as he had received pressing
signals from across the way.
The troop now passed on. The minstrels struck up a fresh
air that set young feet a tripping. The rooster actually crowed
an accompaniment. Independent of the exhilarating fife and
drum, and rousing trumpets, the scene is a stirring one. The
collectors, with their banners fluttering over their heads, and
their albs streaming behind them, are running hither and thither, crossing and recrossing the street as devotees appear at windows and door-hatches, while their brethren with the little bird
and bag are as busy answering calls made on them.
I have heard much about the doings at the strange festa, but
it is useless to speculate on what we shall soonihave opportunities to see for ourselves.
18t1h. Walked with H     to Rua Marecas, and turned into
a private entry near the Duck Fountain.   Iy companion clapped his hands-an Oriental summons common in the Levantan Ethiopian appeared at the stairhead. Being told who we
were, he returned with an invitation to step up and take seats
in Senhor Barboza's parlor.
After resting a while, the Senhora came in, saying she expected her husband every minute. Her sprightly conversation
made me regret the inability to commune directly with her. A
native of Montevideo, she ought to be half Republican, and perhaps is so. She laughingly remarked, " Ah! you North Americans don't love monarchs nor the splendors of royalty." To
this pretty fillip it was replied that, though we had no very




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                  253
marked regard for kings of diamonds, we admired queens of
hearts, and that every lady with us was one. It was conceded
at once that if our taste was defective as respects one class of
governors, it was unexceptionable as regards another. The conversation was here interrupted by the arrival of Senhor B,
who led us into his sanctum, a room actually crammed with
curiosities. Besides collections of Brazilian relics, here was a
rare one of Peruvian antiquities, in earthenware, stone, and
metals. These I begged permission to sketch. For his prompt
acquiescence I made my best acknowledgments, and when the
reader comes to the Appendix in which they are described, he
will feel equally obliged to this enlightened Brazilian gentleman.
19th. J's birth-day, and kept in Brazilian fashion. His
brother-in-law, H, vice-president of a neighboring province,
and member of the National Legislature, arrived with his family. The lady of this gentleman has endured an amount of affliction which falls to the lot of few of her sex, and, though now
resigned to the severe dispensation of Providence, its effects
are visible in her calm but plaintive face. Like Niobe and
Rachel, she weeps for her children because they are not. A
few years ago, returning by sea from Rio to Rio Grande to join
her husband, a storm arose-the vessel became unmanageable
-broke in two-all on board perished except herself and a seaman. After being,in the water twelve hours, she was washed
ashore insensible. With returning consciousness, the shrieks
of her offspring ere the billows dashed them from her were recalled.  She asked for them, called them by name as though
they still were clinging to her, and the youngest in her arms.
Alas! the whole seven were ingulfed in the watery abyss.
20t/h. The emperor has been expected every hour for the last
three or four days. Preparations have been going on for months
to compliment him with a triumphal pomp. A stately and massive arch has been erected in Dereita Street, surmounted by an
equestrian statue of him of colossal dimensions. The entrance
by the public garden is prettily set off with an elevated pediment and emblematic paintings, while within, colored lanterns,
ready for lighting, are pendent from the trees. These joyful
proceedings were met to-day by a contretemps. At 1 P.M. the
fort signaled the imperial frigates in the offing. The National




254                  SKETCHES OF
Guards assembled, guns were fired, church bells rung, a little
steamer started down the Bay with officers of the palace, the
schools were dismissed, and at length the vessels hove in sight
-the United States frigate Columbia and the Saratoga corvette! The unlucky signal-man at the outer fort is to be dismissed for thus bringing the whole city together. Had the
American commodore appeared an hour later, the city had certainly been illuminated.
23d. Anniversary of "San Jorge, Defensor do Imperio."
This mighty warrior appears in public only once a year, on
which occasions, armed cap-a-pie, a baton in his hand and a falchion by his side, he leads the emperor and court, the national
troops, the Church's staff, and an army of lay people through
the streets in triumph. I supposed this was the pageant-day,
but it occurs in June, so that not till then can we pay our respects to the hero.
J     and I took a boat early at the Flamingo Praya to go
up the Bay, but the mist over the water became so thick that
we were liable to lose ourselves. No object, not even a ship,
was visible at a distance of a hundred feet. Veiled in the gloom,
and without a compass, we sought the shore, till the great Cloud
Creator and Disperser should gather up the dark one that involved us, and through which, with much uncertainty, we were
driving.
Landing at Palace Square, some four miles from where we
started, we found the market crowded with buyers and sellers
of fish, fruits, earthen and wooden wares, live turkeys, sucking
pigs, Guinea and common fowls. No dressed poultry or pigs
are seen. In one cage were pigs differing from any I had seen
-longer legged, of a dullish gray color, and long, pendent tails,
with a tuft of hair at the end of each.  Of fish, besides five-feet
sharks waiting for purchasers, here were streaked bass and
mackerel three feet long, if bass and mackerel they were.
To pass the time till the fog cleared up, I strolled to the lower end of Ouvidor, where stands an ancient temple of the peddlers-dos Mascas. The body of the little place is circular,
and fitted up with two shrines of Ann and Joaquim. The figures are of natural size, and accompanied with minikin attendants, fresh painted, that looked quite comfortable. One is a




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   255
friar. Little angels also, hovering about the niches, are genuine soaring ones, not like obese things modeled after penguins,
and no more able to rise above the ground. No one was present but myself. At length a negro came in, dropped on his
knees, and, instead of addressing the saint, kept watching my
every movement. A boy, not over six or seven years old, entered from a side door with a cruet, small bell, and a napkin,
which he placed on Joaquim's table. In a friar's gown, the
hood hanging down his back, a white tasseled cord round his
waist, slip-shod and bare-legged, he was the youngest acting
monk I met with.
" After rain comes sunshine."  By nine the haze had vanished, when a boat, propelled by four African oarsmen, took me
two miles up the Bay to the British burying-ground-an irregular plot, part of a mountain slope, opposite the little Bay of
Gamboa, and the last resting-place of heretics that die here.
The broad path leading through it is necessarily steep and crooked. Half way up, a spot has been leveled for a little structure
in which the burial-service is read. The graves are generally
level with the surface, and marked by narrow plates of cast iron
thrust into the ground and numbered. The prevailing monuments are horizontal slabs. Foreign officers lie here, who might
at this moment have been the pride of their parents and ornaments of their country —victims of a false sentiment of honor,
that has consigned them to corruption and oblivion in their
bloom.
One monumental souvenir above all others engaged my attention. A low stucco fence incloses it, leaving room for lilies,
rose bushes, saudades, and purple flowering vines, while at the
corners young cypresses shoot up. It is the grave of Alfred
-, an affectionate and precocious child, whose departure
has torn his parents' heart-strings.
A more auspicious resting-place for the dead can hardly be
found on earth. Located on the declivity of a tropical mount,
clothed in perpetual verdure, its walks and tombs bordered with
flowers, and its area dotted with Indian walnut-trees, mangoes,
cinnamon, African corn, and the sweet mandioca; with ara9as,
cajus, and the cardamoma, with its rose-colored clusters; pinheiros, pitangas, and calabash-trees with both rounded and elon



256                 SKETCHES OF
gated fruit-what Christian could desire a fitter sepulchre, or
where find one more abounding with emblems of innocence and
immortality! The blights of winter invade it not; ranges of
everlasting hills surround it, and earth's brightest skies smile
over it.
On returning, I could not but observe the variety of watercraft in motion-handsome-shaped canoes, with elevated bows
and sterns, and their rapid propulsion in right lines by a single
paddle. The faluas appear to me identical in form and rig with
Egyptian Nile-boats.
But the day was favorable for observing bodies floating in
another medium. In few parts of the earth are the phenomena
of clouds -their formation, attraction by mountains, and absorption-more visible than here. If Homer derived not his
"'Beeves of the sun" from cumuli, he might have done so if
Sicilian skies resemble those of Rio. The feeblest imagination
can not fail of being struck with the analogy and of realizing
the imagery.
Regularly almost as evening comes do these celestial flocks
collect about the highest peaks, and descend among the lowest,
to empty their charged udders. See! at this moment, while
some are stationary half way down the Corcovado range, others
are moving along the Tejucan valleys as if to meet waternymphs waiting, like mortal dairy-maids, with empty pails.
Thus are they seen at eventide approaching, and in the morning hieing away to distant pastures. Such are the kine that
diurnally furnish the Flumenensians with life's richest, sweetest
fluid. Yonder, far as the eye can reach, a herd is coming in a
right line. How steadily they approach, and how beautifully
their snow-white sides are relieved by the azure of their ethereal meadows! I think these sights are equal to any in Brazil.  The evening dews are dense as if showers fell. A few
mornings ago, after sketching a fountain, I scrambled up a
mount, and my dress was as thoroughly soaked as if it had
been dragged through a stream.
24th. A friend and I agreed to devote a day to a mountain isle on the opposite side of the Bay, and close in with the
shore, between San Domingo and the fort of Santa Cruz. From
the city it looks no larger than a good-sized haystack, which it




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   257
resembles. It is sacred to the protectress of seamen, having
been dedicated, with the church that crowns it-yon small white
patch on its summit-some two hundred years ago, to "Nossa
Senhora da Boa Viagem," a lady to whose providence Brazilian
and Portuguese sailors committed and commit themselves, make
vows to and call upon her when in peril, just as ancient navigators dealt with Neptune and Oceanus. Having had a prosperous voyage from the States, a pious relative says I ought
to go.
We crossed the Bay in a small steamer, whose pilot was a
Mozambique slave, and landed at San Domingo, where the gatekeeper or ferry-master was, or had been, another. Both were
tall, middle-aged, and as finely-formed men as I ever saw, the
latter particularly. He had no more of the negro lineaments
than had Mark Antony or Cato, but both had indelible marks
of their barbaric origin-one a double, the other a single row of
pimples, the size of peas, down the middle of the forehead, and
along the ridge of the nose to its very tip —the signs of their native tribes. The Mozambiques are among the best of slaves.
Equally intelligent and more pacific than the Minas (from the
Gold Coast), faithful and trustworthy, they bring a high price.
A gentleman who crossed the Bay with us had witnessed, while
on a visit to the eastern coast of South Africa, the process of
producing the fleshy beads. At one time he saw forty or fifty
lads and young men lying on the ground suffering from the operation. A minute incision is made through the skin for each
pimple; the lips of the wound then are pulled up and tied by a
thread, and in time the protuberances become permanently globose, smooth, and shining.
After skirting round a mountain, and following a narrow path,way darkened with dense foliage towering over us, with coffee,
orange, and banana trees, and chacaras concealed among the
exuberant vegetation, we came plump on the beach in the rear
of the Sacred Isle, which was now between us and the city, as
represented in the cut on p. 62. A strip of sand connects it at
low tides with the opposite shore, and on it a stone causeway
has been built; but the whole is broken down and dispersed by
the surf, save part of an arch projecting from the precipitous
face of the isle. The tide was coming in, and we had to retreat.
pi




258                 SKETCHES OF
My companion hallooed, and presently a naked yellow boy came
over in a leaky canoe, which could only take one of us across at
a time. The only craft belonging to the place, it was hardly
creditable to the patroness of watermen.
While my companion was being paddled over, I had an opportunity of observing a very interesting fact in physics. The
ridge of sand just mentioned is formed by waves rolling in from
opposite directions and meeting there. While reclining on a
stone at a spot where their force was reduced almost to nothing,
the tiny surges crossed each other, and continued on their way
without having their forms or movements apparently the least
affected. One swept over the other, while each preserved its
outline and progress as if no such contact had taken place. The
shallow, transparent fluid, and the almost snow-white sand below, rendered their movements distinctly visible.
Young Charon returned, and I joined H    on a rock, in
which notches were cut for the feet and hands to mount it. By
careful climbing, we got into a zigzag path, at places too steep
for any biped to ascend, had not the soil been cut into steps,
with stakes driven in for risers. The only passage up, it presents one of those cases where a few determined spirits could
keep an army at bay, or children put bold men to flight. As
we rose, we found preparations made to test the latter. We
came to a stone door-way. To pass by it without wings was
impossible, and within it stood a sentinel with musket and fixed
bayonet. He was supported by a comrade in a military cap,
blue roundabout, a cartridge-box at his side, and a brass-handled sword in his hand. Neither of these warriors exceeded
four feet in height nor ten years of age! One I perceived was
an Indian. What all this meant I could not divine, nor find
breath to ask. They made way for us, and we passed through
-two sweating, panting, broken-winded pilgrims, pressing onward to the shrine above.
Tacking this way and that, we at length stopped to rest,
when H      told me that the place had been little visited by
devotees of late years, and that the government had established
a school on it for a hundred boys, to be educated for marines.
The governor was his old army acquaintance. Starting again,
we approached the top of this immense rock, came to a low




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                  259
dwelling, and observed the church a little farther up. The governor and his amiable family received us both as old acquaintances. Being a widower, his mother takes charge of his children. The old lady, with spectacles on nose, but no cap on
her gray head, was busy with her needle. The house, of one
story, is cool, comfortable, and wholly void of ornament. After
taking a draught of sugar and water, H - entered into conversation with our venerable hostess in native style. As his
tongue rattled on, his arms were here, there, and every where;
he frowned, smiled, and grinned successively; his voice, now a
whisper, next a shout; his eyeballs rolling, and his whole system in commotion. He wound up with placidly drawing forth
his caixa de rape, and begging his smiling auditress to take a
pinch. He had merely been relating some commonplace city
news.
We found the little church open. A contemporary of that
on Gloria Hill, every thing about it reminds one of former times.
Almost the entire structure, as well as its images and ornaments, came from Portugal. For want of repairs, both stone
and wood work are going to decay. The lady patroness,is neglected too. No priest lives here to wait on her, and only at
long intervals does one appear. Her glory is waning with her
walls. The "noble brotherhood" once devoted to her service
has been long extinct. Even the records of her former greatness are no more.
The low walls support a rather high roof, whose converging
sides are truncated, leaving the interior like the lower half of
the letter A. Entering the old-fashioned door, the hat of a tall
man would touch the ceiling of a little gallery stretching overhead. Here were marine subjects-ships tossing on the ocean,
and Our Lady in the clouds watching them. Advancing, we
found the side walls set off with Dutch tiles, and the ceiling
covered with paintings of shipwrecks and the miraculous rescue
of drowning sailors; of Portuguese in conflict with Mohammedans; the marriage of the Virgin; the mother of the mother of
God and her husband teaching the mother of God to read; an
emblematic fountain, in which the Virgin holds the infant Christ,
fiom whose toes and fingers issue streams of water into an overflowing vase, while men gaze and crowd to catch the falling




260                  SKETCHES OF
drops. Here are three altars, with their appurtenances. Over
the chief one " Our Lady of the Good Voyage" presides. She
is only thirty inches high, yet far too large for the ship she'
stands on. Though inclosed in glass, her garments and the
Baby's are faded and colorless. Of the candles before her none
are lit; all look yellow, as if they had been years on duty, that
tall one in front excepted. It is white, clean, and distinguished
farther by a red ribbon tied round the middle. " That," said the
governor, "was sent here yesterday from a woman whose husband is at sea-an offering on his behalf." A few days since,
another female sent over eight pounds of wax to secure the safe
return of her son from Pernambuco.
One of the lesser shrines is dedicated to Santa Rita, the other
to Santa Clara. Neither of these ladies are over twenty inches
in stature, and not being inclosed, are left to take their chance
with less sacred wood-work. They are destitute and perishing.
Every thing is on a small scale as well as the images. A
preacher in the box-pulpit could, with an ordinary coach-whip,
administer discipline to every sinner in the congregation.
Now let us, in passing out, take a glance at the collection of
old ex votos at the right and left of the entrance. Here hang
bunches of waxen legs, arms, feet, hands, paps, breasts, heads,
eyes, entire abdomens, etc., all of natural dimensions. A votive tablet records that Justina de Araujo Silva had a cancer
no one eye, and was miraculously cured by N. S. da Boa Viagem. A monstrous tumor is represented in lively colors bleeding on a waxen neck-another great cure wrought by her. A
tablet has a foundering ship portrayed on it, and tells us she
was overtaken by a hurricane, when the crew called on the lady
of this church, and she saved all.  The vessel was trebly guarded from evil in her name: " Santa Anna, San Antonio, and E
Almas!"  This small board declares that the female who offered it was long afflicted with a pain in her side, and she was in
danger of making a voyage to the other world. She came here
to consult Our Lady, and was healed. One more, dated 1756,
has a painting on it of a man sick in bed, and Our Lady in a
corner of the room, telling him to rub the diseased parts with
oil taken from the lamp then burning before her, in this very
place.  He followed the advice, rose a sound man, and hung




LIFE  IN BRAZIL.                      261
up this tablet as a testimony of his gratitude and of the miracle.*
We passed into the sacristy. Two lads came in and opened
drawers of the old bureau to look for something. In one lay
loose leaves of an early volume in manuscript on the "Nobre
Irmanda de N. S. da Boa Viagem." Some entries were dated
in 1719. The only existing volume begins with 1769, and
closes, without being filled, in 1818.  In other drawers were
the lady's linen and holiday dresses, two purple silk gowns, embroidered stomachers, and frocks and frills for the infant; a pillbox held their crowns and three or four splendores-i. e., silver
or tin rays attached to wires to stick them on the head. Quite
a number of old pictures hang on the walls. One, three feet by
two, represents the birth of the Virgin. St. Anna is in bed,
her husband in an arm-chair near her, and half a dozen women
washing the new-born child, making posset, etc. Every canvas is ready to drop from its frame, nearly eaten out by ants.
Strange, that one who can rescue sinking ships and seamen,
cure colics, cancers, and other ills, should not, by a small miracle, keep her own place here in better order-save it, as well as
souls, from perishing.
As characteristic a thing as any is the Lavatory. In city
vestries this is generally of sculptured marble; here it is of
Chinaware, and exhibits in a striking light the piety of ancient
mariners voyaging from the Indies. Every piece was a gift to
the lady of the place. The ewer has been a soup tureen; the
wash-basin an octagonal salad-bowl. Auxiliary ornaments are
from tea-sets. The manner of arranging and combining them
is curious, and the whole affair is unique: against the wall
arises from a step a conical fancy slab, its scalloped sides terminating with a trefoil at the apex some six feet high. It is not
of stone, but stucco. Four feet up is the tureen, of which one
third nearly has been buried in the mortar to sustain the two
thirds projecting from it. The plaster has been scooped out to
* A strictly parallel case may as well be given from Gruter: One Lucius was
sick of a pleurisy, and applied to Esculapius, to whom he had great devotion. The
god appeared to him in a dream, and told him to take ashes from his altar, mingle
them with wine, and apply them to his side. He obeyed, got well, and hung up
in the temple an acknowledgment of the miraculous cure.




262                  SKETCHES OF
allow the cover to be removed. In front of the vessel a hole is
drilled to receive a faucet  at present filled with a cork. Below is the basin, fixed in the same way. Then all over the
remaining parts of the slab are imbedded tea and coffee-cups,
with the painted sides outward. Parts of vessels are stuck in
where whole ones could not be.  I counted a dozen cups, four
plates, between thirty and forty saucers, all whole, besides full
as many broken pieces. Placed outside of a building, it would
be taken as the sign of crockery on sale within.
The little cinerary vase at the foot is modern, of polished
rosewood it contains the ashes of a child, with the touching inscription, "T. d'Amor P."-" Testimonial of a Father's Love."
By a flag-staff near the church a couple of Liliputian sentries




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   263
paraded. Others were sweeping paths with bunches of leaves.
Several Indians are among them, chiefly tamed ones from Jesuit settlements. The authorities pick them up wherever they
can, and send them down to the marine and naval schools here.
They are said to make good seamen. It was asserted that the
aborigines, wild and tame, have little regard for their children,
often selling them for cachaga rumn; and that their offspring care
nothing for their parents.  To illustrate this, the governor called, at my suggestion, a little fellow from the vicinity of the Amazon. In reply to interrogatories, he told us his father was
dead, and he wanted to go to his mother.
We ascended the roof to get an uninterrupted view of the
bay and ocean-of the city and surrounding scenery-and such
a prospect! The sea, a sheet of silver; not a ruffle on the
glistening bay to divert attention from its emerald isles and verdant shores, nor a cloud on the smiling face of heaven. It was
like a scene in Eden. I shall not attempt to describe it, nor to
portray the buoyancy of mind and feeling it inspired.
Not till now did I perceive the relative positions of the famous
peaks in the vicinity of Rio: the Sugar-loaf, Two Brothers,
Gavia, Corcovado, and Tejuco. But here they rose before us in
such bold outlines that I could not resist the impulse to sketch
them; and the rather, as no such view, I understand, has been
taken, notwithstanding its conveying so clear an idea of the
physical features of the country, including even a large portion




264                 SKETCHES OF
of Brazil. Instead of hills and dales, plains and valleys, it presents an endless succession of mountains, rocks, and ravines.
The point on the extreme left is the site of the Fort of Santa
Cruz.  Outside of the harbor's mouth are Razee and Rond Islands. In the range are seen the Sugar-loaf, Two Brothers,
Gavia, Corcovado, Tejuco, the Isle of Villegagnon, and part of
the city, about five miles off.
In a garret over the vestry, used as a school-room, were,
among obsolete apparatus, two wooden friars, two feet high,
fixed on a base, and pointing to a perpendicular slit in a board
between them. A short tin tube proceeds from the breast of
each. The governor.thought it was an ancient weather-indicator, and that, when fair, the shaven crowns were exposed;
when wet, the cowls, which moved on joints, were raised to
shield them from the rain. Probably a modification of the old
popular toy of a man and woman in a box: when the sun is
out she appears, but when a storm is brewing she goes in and
sends her partner forth.
Here was also an alms-box,
worn out in service.  It is of an
oval form, made of tin plate, pro-:/:    vided with a lock, ornamented
///  with a picture of the Lady of the
/  Good Voyage, and with a strap to
/i:/>;pass over the neck of the collect~  I: / or when he started forth to receive
/:     contributions from  her friends
among the shipping, and from others on the city shore.  It is rusted through and through.
After dining with our excellent
host we took our leave. On our way down, we found the Indian child who longed for his mother on guard. At one spot
the granite seemed stratified, the seams inclining at an angle of
40~. At the water's edge it resembled an artificial pavement,
the white quartz projecting half an inch to an inch and al half
from the dark matrix like so many pebbles.  Having to wait
for the steamer, we noticed theatrical and other bills posted on
the ferry-house walls, esmola boxes to receive contributions for




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   265
the saints, etc. It was near dark ere we reached the city, and
concluded this delightful pilgrimage of a day.
The church of Boa Viagem is, in some respects, well located.
No vessel can enter or leave the harbor without passing it. No
votary comes in without being reminded of his promised offerings, or goes out without a hint of the value of the lady's protection. Still, it is too distant from the city and anchorageground, and too difficult of approach. To accommodate all who
do not like to cross the Bay, or from other causes find it inconvenient to go so far, an office is opened in the city, in Saint Luzia's Church, where, as we have seen, the Lady of Navigators
has an altar and a cash-box. In other churches, also, she is invoked by those who wish to secure safe passages over seas for
themselves or friends, and receives the acknowledgments of
such as she has saved from hurricanes and lee shores.  Many
a ton of wax and the sails of hundreds of vessels have been offered to her on the island, but the business is now almost entirely done in the city.
Dona S     told me that she came from Rio Grande in 1816
in one of her father's vessels. The passage was pleasant till
within a day's sail of the Sugar-loaf.  A small cloud then rose
rapidly from the horizon, darkness gathered over them, the sea
began to swell, and other indications of a storm so alarmed the
captain, that he called the men aft and asked them to join him
in offering the mainsail to Francis de Paula on condition of his
carrying them safe in.  They agreed.  Dofia S —  remembers them standing round the commander, and with loud voices
calling on the saint, reminding him of what they had promised.
each man confirming the gift so far as his proportion of the
cost went. On arriving safe, they paid for a mass, and a few
days afterward went to the saint's quarters in procession, barefoot, bearing the sail through the streets, with the captain at
their head. The offering was deposited in front of the church.
A fair value was put upon it in presence of the priest; the captain laid down the money, and was handed a receipt stating
the amount which the pious commander, Antonio Martines
Bezerra, had paid into the treasury of the saint, the value
of his mainsail, in fulfillment of a vow made at the approach
of a storm on such a day, as an acknowledgment of the saint's




266                 SKETCHES OF
miraculous interposition in behalf of himself, his ship, and
crew.
Auctions of ships' sails vowed to saints in stormy weather
were, till recently, quite common, and are not yet obsolete. The
captains always bought them in, and not unfrequently the priests
had some one to run them up, to prevent their being knocked
down too low.
A regular receipt was always given. Similar scenes occasionally take place at St. Anthony's Convent, in front of the churches
of Sts. Jos6, Sebastian, Luzia, and others; but the priests of St.
Francis have the greatest run, though this holy man probably
never knew the difference between a barnacle and a binnacle.
In coming down from Pernambuco in 1831, my informant
says they had unusually bad weather near the Abrolhos. Three
water-spouts were in sight, and one so near that the noise of
the ascending fluid was quite audible. Instead of depending
on his own energies, and stimulating those of the crew, the captain had recourse to the Lady of the Good Voyage, promising
her a large amount of wax if she would run them in alongside
ier island by the following day, the 4th of April. They did
not get in till the 5th, and the lady lost her reward, the captain having no idea of paying her, pro rata, for what she had
done-illustrating the ancient saying, "When the danger is
over the saint is neglected."
It is an old custom of popish mariners (and pagan ones too)
to scourge their patron saints when praying to them fails.
Whether the practice is enforced upon the Lady of Boa Viagem
I know not. It is probably confined to the other sex. Anthony
comes in for many a thrashing at sea as well as on shore, i. e.,
in ordinarily rough weather, for, when storms rage, recourse is
had to entreaty and to vows, according to the proverb, "When
the pilot promiseth wax and mass, it is going ill with the ship."
As a tempest increases, the inducements held out increase also;
officers and men, by a natural as well as devotional impulse,
bidding higher and higher. Thus one or two of the smaller sails
are first offered the saint; if they do not soften him, more are
promised, till the main sheet is added, and, as a last resource,
its weight in wax has been given.*
* The custom of offering wax-that is, candles, or the material to make them



LIFE  IN  BRAZIL.                        267
The identity between institutions, doctrines, and ceremonies
of Romanists and pagans was a sore puzzle to the Jesuits on
their first reaching China, Thibet, and India. There they found
monks and nuns, and hierarchies from begging friars up to abbots, cardinals, and popes, with the usual appurtenances to altars and images, but confession, extreme unction, and, what
was still more perplexing, a virgin represented with a child, and
adored as the Queen of Heaven, Holy Mother, and the Madonna.  So, also, on board of Oriental craft, they found little genii
set up in cabins, with lights and other offerings before them,
as in their own country shipping.
CHAPTER XXIII.
People of Color.-Twilight and Climate.-Barbonos Monks.-The Ex-Nuncio.Henry A. Wise recalled.-Arrival of the Emperor and Anxieties of Courtiers.
-A  new Saint.-Mask.-Market Incident.-St. Peter's Church.-N. S. Concei~ao.-Plaster Images proposed. —Collecting-days and Collectors.-Church of
the Mother of Men.-Fat Ladies and Gentlemen.-Unctuous Worship of N. S's.
Shoe-sole.-Bedini, the new Nuncio.
April 25. Here are many wealthy people of color. I have
passed black ladies in silks and jewelry, with male slaves in
livery behind them. To-day one rode past in her carriage, accompanied by a liveried footman and a coachman.   Several
have white husbands. The first doctor in the city is a colored
man, so is the President of the province.   The Viscountess
C      a, and scores of the first families, are tinged.
This morning the brief duration of twilight was very observable.  Within half an hour the heavens changed from  black to
gray, and from gray to blue. Dark at half past five-at six, sunrise. Thus abruptly the business of life is ushered in and closed.
by seamen is of unknown antiquity. It is mentioned by Pitts, in the 17th century, as practiced by the Moors, in storms to allay, and in calms to secure a wind
When one of their vessels was about to pass the Straits, the sailors were accustomed " to make a gathering of small wax candles, which they usually carry with
them, and bind them in a bundle, and then, together with a pot of oil, throw them
overboard, as a present to the marabout or saint who lies entombed there on the
Barbary shore, not in the least doubting but the present will come safe to the
marabout's hands."-A Faithful Account of the Religion and Manners of the Mohammedans. London, 1731.




268                 SKETCHES OF
The heat, so uniform, and the lassitude it induces, make people seek repose at early hours.  Here is nothing like our social
gossipings over winter's fires. Verily, the pleasures of perpetual summer, of flowers ever blooming, and of weather ever
warm, are not all that poets make them. They become monotonous, and cease to charm.  The body languishes, and the
mind itself begins to lose its vigor. At any rate, a feeling of
the kind makes-me long for the elasticity that attends a northern spring, which makes the blood, like that of plants, leap
through the veins.  Not insensible to the glories of the tropics,
I prefer the alternations of the temperate zones —snow, and ice,
and summer's sun.
In going to town, I overtook three of the monks recently returned in a Genoese vessel from a mission to the Holy Land.
They have brought home select articles of vertu: scraps of the
Virgin's veil and of Peter's scapulary, chaplets in great variety,
pieces of the true cross, etc. To my fancy, they are, as they
shuffle on before me, with fresh-shaven crowns and newly-washed legs, enormous white beaver hats, pinched up like canoes,
and carried in their hands, flapping cowls and knotted belts,
friom which large beads, like strings of onions, hang, as great
curiosities as any imported from the Old World into the new
one.  They belong to the "Barbonos" or Bearded Friars.
Their house or monastery is in Barbonos Street, and the greater part of it sacrilegiously occupied as a blacksmithing establishment; and, worse than all, by one of the monks who threw
aside his cassock at the epoch of independence, and who, maugre
the denunciations of his brethren and their efforts to eject him,
keeps four forges going.
There is not a fountain in Rio but presents, with the landscape of which it makes the foreground, the elements of a picture,
and some are eminently picturesque. For several days I have
been endeavoring to secure their outlines. After visiting one
this morning in Engenho Velha, I continued along the avenue to
the residence of the Hon. Henry A. Wise, and spent the day
with him and his amiable lady.
The ex-nuncio, an old gentleman in a three-cornered hat and
red stockings, called to take leave of Mr. Wise, having been superseded, and, as report goes, by a deep-designing Jesuit. He




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                  269
is reputed to have been too liberal to suit the views of the Vatican, and too enlightened to sanction the popular superstitions.
He says the people here have no religion; they worship images,
and delight only in the grossest of Church usages, while the
clergy are notorious for the worst of vices. He was once asked
why the Pope did not send a legate to preside over the Romanists in the United States.  His reply was, "There is no need
of one. The clergy there are more spiritual than any where
else. Their conflicts with Protestant sects keep them pure."
[Mr. Wise was subsequently recalled.  If the published accounts of the first interview of one of his successors with the
court are to be relied on, there is a passage in Plutarch respecting two Theban embassadors to the Persian monarch worth
transcribing: "Pelopidas submitted to nothing unworthy of
his country or his character, but Ismenias, when commanded to
adore the king, dropped his ring, that, stooping to pick it up, he
might make the required prostration." There are Republicans
without even the virtue of Ismenias-who pander to royalty to
an extent that, in an Athenian or Spartan embassador, would
have been punished with death.]
26tA. The morning papers announced the probable arrival of
the emperor from his southern tour, and by noon the expected
frigate entered the Bay. Guns at the fort and flags on Castle
Hill proclaimed the news. Hackney-carriages and liveries are
in fierce demand-flowers too, to shower on the monarch and
his queen. Ladies for some time back have been preparing
their dresses, and gentlemen also-men of fifty, ex-councilors
and senators, consulting about costumes in which to join the
procession; whether to dress like the courtiers of Francis I.,
Henry IV., or to imitate those of Louis XIV.! studying, moreover, in what drapery their youngest sons should, by waiting
on their imperial majesties to-day, " take the first step in nobility," for such is the expression.
It is amusing to hear, as we have heard for the last two
hours, of gentlemen at their wits' end in consequence of the dilatoriness of the artists on whose skill their hopes have been
placed; but the delay, in one or more instances, is known to
be due to alterations ordered after the last cut and finish had
been repeatedly given. On this account, and because some pub



270                 SKETCHES OF
lie decorations are not quite complete, a deputation has been off'
to ask the emperor to remain on board till to-morrow, when
every thing will be ready to receive him. He is said to have
given an emphatic refusal.
He landed at 4 P.M. A light rain fell, but a procession was
formed from the Bay to the palace, consisting of officers of the
army, navy, and the Church, ministers of state, gentlemen of
the bed-chamber, and a fair bevy of maids of honor. Pedro
walked under a canopy. Six feet three inches tall, his wife
with difficulty reached his arm. Some of the officers of the
household had their sons with them-lads of eight, ten, and
twelve, dressed in court costume. Several had the right to attend, from having rendered personal service to the emperor, and
becoming thereby ex officio members of the household. Inquiring what the nature of the service was, I was told such as picking up his handkerchief, presenting him a towel after dinner,
a tooth-pick, or a snuff-box, for which their fathers or friends
contrive to give them an opportunity. They are named "the
emperor's young and noble servants," a title, with the privileges,
much sought after. At the christening of the little prince, four
of them climbed the first rung of glory's ladder by carrying a
cloth to wipe the child after being anointed.
As a fact indicative of republican feeling, a young Brazilian
of my acquaintance refused to succeed his father as " a gentleman of the bed-chamber," saying he would perform no such
services for any man.
The bishop informs the public through the "Jornal" that he
has designated the 10th proximo for the inauguration of the
new saint brought from the catacombs at Rome, to which day
we will postpone our notice of her.
27th. dMet a negro with an iron mask in his hand, probably
to put on one of his fellow-slaves, or possibly himself; he looked sorrowful enough for either contingency.
An exciting scene to a stranger was the unloading of several
faluas. Laughing and yelling slaves came wading through the
muddy surf with crockery-ware, coffee, and other inland produce
on their heads. A cargo of the former they spread out on clean
spots of Palace Square.
Stepping into the market, an old man at the doorway offered




SKETCHES OF                     271
me a little framed picture.  "My friend," quoth I, "I don't
want it;" but he so persisted in holding it up before me by a
loop, that, to satisfy him, I took it in hand, and lo! it was a
thin rectangular alms-box, having a dirty engraving of some
saint pasted on one side. A negro, crippled and awfully disfigured by elephantiasis, seated on the steps, watched us closely,
and when I handed back the box, burst into such a shriek of
laughter as I suppose is seldom heard out of Africa. On receiving it, the man seemed all but transfixed. He wore a withered alb, and was taking up collections for the saint figured on
the box. I am told his amazement probably arose as much
from my neglecting to kiss the portrait as from not contributing, no one taking in hand such holy things without carrying
them to the lips. Were the Savior to revisit the earth and
walk through this market, would he drop alms into the receptacle of sacerdotal mendicants, or into the hands of poor black Lazaruses at their feet?
In Rua San Pedro I found the dark and little church dedicated to him open, and went in. It is slightly elliptical, with a
domed roof, divided into panels, in which mitres, crooks, and
kindred symbols figure. Here are two side shrines, at one of
which a priest and lad were performing mass. Not a worshiper
present except an old negress and myself. In a few minutes
the priest finished, folded something up in a cloth, and, with his
assistant, retired. Among a group of little statues at one shrine
was Becket, with a knife sticking in his skull. While trying
to make out the others, a dark shadow swept over the floor, accompanied with a slam. I turned; the old black woman had
vanished, and a half naked negro was staring at me with the
church keys in his hand. Here are some good old carvings,
but the names of the images, large and small, I could not extract from the grinning sacristan. The only intelligent replies
as I pointed to each were " San Pedro" and " San Gonsalves.'"
I next toiled up Mount Conceivao to the bishop's palacea plain two-story structure, with nothing observable about it
but its location and pompous name. I have already remarked
that here the constituted servants of the Lord are lords of the
hills, and own no small part of the city valleys too, while in
the interior some ecclesiastical orders can exclaim with God




272                 SKETCHES OF
himself, " Every beast of the forest is ours, and the cattle upon
a thousand hills."
Turning into Violas Street, I came to a very mean-looking
(:hurch. The door was closed, but a side passage led into the
vestry, where were huge collections of ex votos, and among
them quite a number of babies-and properly so, since this is
the temple of the Lady da Concei9ao. Masons were replastering the niches in the cemetery, of which there are ninety. An
open door showed a negro taking up an old carpet near the altar.
Stepping in, I found myself close to the goddess of the place, and
was greatly disappointed in finding the most popular of Brazilian patronesses-the lady par excellence-she to whom the emperor's mother cried for a boy, and had him sent her —in so
wretched a home, and so sooty and shabbily dressed! And
who could have expected that this lady, of all others, should
be represented in a four-foot doll, with garments stained and tarnished as if from standing years in a toy-shop window?
Were I familiar with ecclesiastical managers, I would suggesi
the replacing of the legions of their wooden ladies and gentlemen with saints cast in Paris plaster. Such, from their snowy
whiteness, their freedom from spots and stains, would harmonize with, and even suggest ideas of moral purity, and consequently be contemplated with more advantage than images
which irresistibly lead one to associate those they represent
with sluttery or with rakes, who, having spent their fortunes,
have nothing left but shabby finery. To keep these fading characters in fit condition to edify the devout, the services of a host
of artists are constantly required, and are secured when funds
are provided, but when these are wanting, a coat of paint and
varnish, to improve the complexion of their faces and cleanse
their hands, is about all that is done for them, and that only
once, or, it may be, twice in a generation. Now saints in plaster can have new suits for nothing. They would always be
"at home," and dressed in character —never denied to visiting friends for being in an undress, and unfit to receive company. In the murkiest churches, the most they could require
would be a dipping in lime and water once or twice a year.
Images are peculiar to and essential to Polytheism. Originating in low stages of mental development, it is difficult to




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   273
imagine how, without them, any thing like uniformity of views
respecting the persons, attributes, and functions of legions of
invisible beings invoked could have been established in the
minds of the ignorant masses.  What confusion if every imagination had been left to conjure up figures of the gods for itself!
Standard patterns removed the difficulty; being greatly multiplied and met with every where, in public grounds, gardens,
temples, and private dwellings, they circulated like modern
tracts, and kept alive a knowledge of the chief characteristics of
each divinity.  They were books that were never closed, and
such as all could peruse and comprehend. What they were
to the heathen they are to the untutored Romanists-indispensable.  Independent of the part they have played in human
history, they are not without interest when viewed simply as an
invention by which sensible media were made to convey definite
ideas on spiritual things.
Every church has services somewhat peculiar to itself, in consequence of the special divinity to whom it is dedicated. But
there are weekly masses, exclusive of those on Sundays, common to all parish churches, and on the days they are celebrated
collectors go forth to ask alms to meet the expense. Thus, in
the Cattete, every Monday a man knocks at our door for a donation to release imprisoned souls; on Thursdays, "for the
sacrament;" on Saturdays the cry is, "Wax for Our Lady."
For some purposes these men do not go beyond their parish
boundaries, while for others they canvass the city at large. Evcry day more or less are out. On Thursdays they are so numerous as to be met with every where. They call at every
door, and enter every store, no matter what number of customers are within, nor how much proprietors are engaged.
Tuesdays are appropriated to replenish the purse of the treasarers of Nossa Senhora da Concei9ao. Friday is the day for the
friends of the Lady of Pains to do what they can for her. Every
few weeks an old gentleman appeals to us for the Lady of Lampadoza, and another gives us frequent opportunities of securing
the good will of Luzia. Every saint that holds a feast has a
collector. Once a month an agent of Antonio's Convent comes
round; hence these fathers canvass the city twelve times a year.
Wearing a primitive Quaker's hat, a coarse black gown, beS




274               LIFE IN BRAZIL.
neath the skirts of which his bare legs are seen, with a dark,
long bag in his hand or slung over his shoulder, he draws up at
the door or window. His cry is, "For the friars of St.Anthony."
Under a vow of poverty, these mendicants originally asked only
for bread; hence the bag is still carried, and occasionally
charged with victuals, but the collections generally are in coin.
When money is given him, the rule now is to pull out a loaf
from the bag, to intimate that for bread it will be expended.
Impressions derived from accounts of the old barefooted friars
are hardly sustained by a personal acquaintance with their
modern representatives.  The romance of the character is very
much dissipated.  Formerly the duty of asking alms was performed by respectable members of the brotherhoods from religious motives, but of late years they have begun to decline it.
The collectors, being poor men, are often charged with defrauding the saints whose agents they are. Dofia B   says the
old chap in her district pockets considerable! It is, however,
an old popish sentiment that he who begs for God collects for
two. The amount yearly taken up must be a large one; and
were it expended for educational purposes, illuminating the
minds of the living instead of attempting to alter the condition
of the dead, and stocking churches with toys and bawbles, it
would prove a public blessing. It is a poor compliment to patron saints to suppose they can be gratified with the puerile
honors paid them.  If they are tickled with such things, they
are not worth tickling.
The little church of Mai dos Homens -mother of men-in
Alfandega Street, being open, I stepped in. Black and white
upholsterers had sole possession, preparing it for a festival.
Some, on bamboo ladders, were tacking up hangings and borders; others covering skeleton columns with red cloth and gimp
edging. There are only two auxiliary shrines. The glass before the images was so much in want of washing that I could
not make out who they were.
29th. The public walk or garden was illuminated this evening in compliment to the emperor. For the first time since I
have been here there was in it quite a throng.  Some of the
handsomest and some of the fattest ladies and gentlemen I ever
saw were among the promenaders.




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                    275
I was on my way to H —'s, who agreed to accompany me
to the house of Senhor Barboza. He had gone to visit the Capuchins, so we strolled up and found him in the vestry.  While
we stood facing the framed pattern of Mary's shoe-sole, a colored
man came between it and us, and, put"I'llt:'!i:~ ~ i    ting his hands against the whitewashed
jlii l;iii  i,.ii/i   wall, pressed his mouth and rubbed his
ii |i'iit'11!l). nose against it.  Shortly after, a respectable white man came in, and saluting it three separate times, passed
I into the chapel, where I found him
with his colored predecessor, half an
hour after, both on their knees.  Two
cloud-like patches were on the wall
right and left of the frame-stains left
by the hands of the worshipers. These
unctuous proofs of devotion had accumulated since my previous visit. The central parts were dark
as umber. A long bench beneath the picture rendered it necessary to use the hands in this act of piety.
Coming down, we met the new nuncio-or nounce, as the
word is pronounced-with a white youth in flaming livery behind him.  M. Bedini is said to be the confidential adviser of
his countrymen, the unpopular Capuchins, whom he was climbing and panting to visit.
CHAPTER XXIV.
Pluvial Deity.- Aqueduct Records.- Pope John. - Ecclesiastical " Cries." -
Slaves. —Army Recruits.-The Emperor opens the Legislature. —Fires and Fireengines.-Slaves.-Suicide.-Begging for the Holy Ghost.-Auction of Slaves.
Bfay 1. This morning every black peak pulled down its cloud.
A milk-white one hung like an apron on the hunchback's breast,
leaving his rough head alone exposed, as if the freak was to imitate a negro in the barber's hands.  Surely the Pluvial deity
and the nymphs his daughters have few locations more congenial than this. The glens and glades, the leaping streams and




276                 SKETCHES OF
gurgling eddies, seem expressly made for wood and water goddesses to sport and splash in. There are seasons, however,
when the gushing rivulets are reduced to broken threads, trickling feebly on, and scarcely able to prevent evaporation taking
all: then the Corcovado driads mourn, and the Tejucan naiads
lean pensive over their empty pitchers, then the city fountains
begin to fail, and anxious mortals entreat the showery deity to
incline his vase and let the rain come down in earnest. As
elsewhere, when they have got enough, they beg him to turn
the talha up.
Spent part of the day in the Office of Public Works, and was
greatly surprised at learning that no document is extant relating to the origin and history of the great Carioco aqueduct.
H-  and I passed through the new buildings erecting for
the Mizericordia. On a pile of stones lay a marble slab belonging to the old burying-ground. An inscription signified
that Pope John XXII. had granted to all the faithful who repeated a subjoined prayer " as many days' indulgence as bodies are buried here." It begins with "God bless you, Christian
souls." Such prayers have, it is said, virtue in them yet, and
that, too, in a land not heard of till more than a century after
John himself had been buried.
We met an alms collector quite cast down at his poor success.  He told H-I  the priest had detained him so long that
other esmoleiros had been round and left him nothing to glean.
His dish was an old article of silver, six inches over, and three
deep. On the flaring rim was engraved, "Frequezia do Santissimo Sacramento do S6."  Here are a few ecclesiastical cries
with which I have become somewhat familiar:
Para a cera de Nossa Senhora da Gloria.
Esmola para O Divino.
Para Santa Luzia Milagraza.
Para a Propaga9ao da F6 (Capuchin's cry).
Para a Santissimo Coragao do Jesus.
Para a Frades de San Antonio.
Para a cera do Santissimo Sacramento.
Para a Missa das Almas.
And so on for Joseph, Joaquim, Anne, the ladies Piedade, Conceigao, do Parto, Dores, Terco, and many more.




SKETCHES OF                      277
The friars of Anthony are candid-their cry is openly for
themselves; at the same time, they are prohibited from touching money; but no quiero mtas echadmelo en la capilla is not a
proverb of yesterday.
2d. While waiting for Colonel F, whose office is not far
from the Matadoura, a dozen at least of butchers' slaves went
past in the course of an hour with crushing loads of fresh-killed
beef.  The flesh was warm; it smoked, and all but quivered.
One poor fellow had a col~,~~ - -    lar, and a chain extending;~ II~~,i~/][/!tl"'l    ~from it to an ankle; he
belonged to a meat-shop
in the Cattete. Two hindf  J quarters are a common
load.  Other slaves went
by, awfully  crippled in
their feet and legs; among
I  them  two women, lame
with  elephantiasis, with
light loads. The right leg
of one was really almost
B y  i_   as large as her waist.  A
purblind man, with a talha
of water on his head, crept along, feeling his way with a stick.
Some Minas girls, dealers in fowls, smartly dressed, and with
tribal scars on their faces, passed on laughing. Each had a
wide basket and a supplemental chicken in her hand, holding it,
as the custom is here, by the wings. Of about one hundred
and fifty blacks who thus passed by, all were slaves save one.
His feet were thrust into a pair of old shoes or slippers-the
badge of freedom. Proud of wearing the same covering to their
feet as white people wear, some pay dear for the gratification.
When men are wanted for the army, a keen look-out is kept up
for them. Those aware of their danger go barefoot, and sometimes throw the recruiting officers off their guard, as slaves can
not be impressed.
I met, a few days ago, a hundred recruits just coming in from
a northern province. They were nearly all colored; one third
were Indians. "How long do they enlist for?" I asked. "They




278                 SKETCHES OF
don't enlist at all," was the answer. They are caught and made
to serve. Governors have orders to send down all disorderly
fellows, and such Indians as they can catch.
3d. As the emperor opens the legislative session to-day,
H-  and I walked over to the senate-chamber-a plain room,
forty feet square, with an internal arrangement similar to that
of most of our state chambers. The throne is a high-backed
chair, placed against the wall behind the presiding officer's seat,
and set off with drapery. The hour had arrived, and not over
fifty spectators in the gallery, although admittance was free.
With the exception of four priests, both senators and deputies
were in official costume-white pants with laced seams, green
coats buttoned up to the chin and half covered with lace,
swords, and chapeaux. Most were of middle stature and corpulent-not a Cassius among them.
Brazilians do not lack the elements of greatness, but a patriot in homespun-a Franklin, Phocion, or Dentatus-would
hardly be appreciated.
An aerial looking personage, powdered and uniquely draped,
tripped in and out. I took him for master of ceremonies, but
he was Speaker of the Chamber of Deputies. The President
of the Senate now rang his bell. The secretary read the roll,
and about twenty answered to their names. A committee was
detailed to wait on the emperor, and presently he entered, with
long but very deliberate steps, resting the forward foot till the
rear one got up and halted, precisely as players tread the stage.
He carried a long gilt staff in manner of a walking-stick, grasping it two feet below the top, as hermits are sometimes painted.
From where I sat, I might have touched the finial that crowned
it. He had nearly reached the throne, when a gentleman came
in, holding up with both hands the continuation of his train or
mantle. He had necessarily to remain with his back to us till
this long piece of drapery was gathered up, as he could not turn
till this was done without being tripped up.
At last the troublesome appendage is coiled up and laid on
the floor by his chair, he leans the staff against the wall, turns,
inclines his head right and left, and, dropping into the chair,
begs the senators to be seated. An officer hands him "the
speech."  He reads it well-I should say very well.  His




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   279
enunciation is rapid, but distinct, and agreeably diversified with
emphasis. His voice is rather feminine. It is musical, but
slightly nasal, as if he indulged in snuff. Running down three
pages of the foolscap sheet, he handed it back to the officer,
arose, slightly nodded to the empress in the gallery, took the
staff, gave a glance behind, where the train-bearer-a marquiswas shaking it out, bows to the senators, and goes out as he entered. The performance lasted about twelve minutes.
His dress was in imitation of some ancient monarch's.  (He
was married in the costume of Francis I.) His throat was naked, and surrounded like a school-boy's by his shirt-frill, whose
triple row of edging rested on an ermine tippet that reached to
his elbows. His arms were in close white satin sleeves, that
met gloves of the same material, with ribbons and ruffles at the
wrists. From the tippet to his toes he was in white satin; his
very shoes and roses on them were of it, and the whole so closely fitted to the upper and nether limbs that, divested of the train
and tippet, he might have been taken any where else for a pantaloon, or, judging from the long pole he leaned on, for a ropedancer about to turn a somerset.
So excessively punctilious in trifles as Brazilians are, there
was one part of the performance not quite the thing. The chair
was either too low or the legs of Pedro too long. It seemed as
if, on sitting down, he became aware that he could not keep
them upright without some part of his dress giving way; and as
it would have been undignified to throw them out in front, he
was compelled to coil them under the seat, where, judging from
their restlessness, they were very unhappy. (Like other histrionic gentlemen, royal actors must submit to theatrical criticism.)
The crown worn by this modern cacique is a large spheroidal,
ungraceful mass, which at a distance might be taken for a head
preternaturally enlarged with hydrocephalus. It seems to have
been made after the pattern of an orange or melon. The orbicular sections meet at the top, support a globe-the earth-and
over it-the church's emblem —a cross shoots up conspicuously.
Nothing of interest occurring, we left, and found the emperor
waiting for the empress in a low, old-fashioned, and open carriage, said to have belonged to Sebastian, who lost his life warring with the Moors. Here he remained five or six minutes




280                SKETCHES OF
longer.  Besides the guards, not over twenty persons were
about, and hardly a m'oiety of them paid more attention to him
than to his coachman. Not a hat was raised, nor a viva uttered; nor did he court any thing of the kind. Pertinaciously
looking up, none could catch his eye. He was evidently acting-putting in practice the royal aphorism, "Avoid familiarity with the masses." He finally was whirled off with no more
eclat than attends the departure of a common stage. The gilt
staff, I am told, is the sceptire-an ensign that I supposed never
exceeded one third of its length.
5th. The bell of the Antonio Convent rang an alarm of fire.
It was in a store near by. Desirous of witnessing the management in such cases, I arrived before the engine. Dense smoke
was issuing from the doorway and windows. Two negroes
came along, screaming and dragging an engine, accompanied by
an officer in a blue roundabout and a brass-handled sword in
hand. The machine consisted of an open copper cistern on
wheels, containing two pump cylinders, the pistons of which
were connected to a lever, and worked fore and aft by a man at
each end. The apparatus was identical with those of Europe
in the seventeenth century.  To feed it, a water-cart was
brought up, and the contents drawn into buckets and poured
into the cistern.  A small hose conveyed the water to the
flames.
In a couple of hours all was over, and but little damage done.
In New York, an entire block had been consumed under the
circumstances, for the little garden pump-it was no largerwould have been all but useless. It might be suspected that
conflagrations in tropical cities like Rio would be frequent and
extensive. The reverse is the fact. They seldom occur, and
rarely is a house destroyed-not one, I am told, in many years.
The cause is partly to be ascribed to the little use made of fire
except for cooking, but chiefly to the comparative incombustibility of woods employed in building. It is not easy to kindle
the beams of a dwelling. Pine joists are prohibited.
On returning, I passed in the same street a short, spare, and
feeble old woman, creeping along the pavement with a baril
of water on her head. An iron collar grasped her shriveled
throat, and from its prong a chain ran up and was secured to




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   281
the handle of the vessel by a padlock-about as cruel a sight
as I have seen yet.
" Is it a cause of wonder that so many of your slaves emancipate themselves by death rather than endure life on such conditions?"  "To treat them in that way," replied my friend, "or
to put masks on them, is forbidden, but laws respecting them
are disregarded." Every day or two suicides are announced in
the police reports, yet it is affirmed that not half are officially
noticed. Those who plunge into the Bay and float ashore come
under the cognizance of the authorities. Of such as sink and
never rise, and all that pass out to sea, or are devoured by
sharks before they reach it, no account is or can be kept, nor
yet of those who destroy themselves in the secret places of the
city or dark recesses of the neighboring forests. Many are advertised as runaways who have reached the spirit land. Suicides, it is said, have greatly increased during the last three
years.
Yesterday I met in Ajuda Street the Santa Rita collectors
for the Holy Ghost, flying to and fro, and screaming " Esmolas
para 0 Divino." Instead of a silver bird, they had its picture
in a little tin frame for contributors to kiss.  The two banners,
a yard square, were of faded crimson, with a white dove in the
centre, or rather it had once been white, for, saluted by hundreds
of perspiring faces, it could not long retain the color of snow.
Both musicians and collectors were meanly and not over-cleanly dressed. They had a shabby, and, in truth, a rakish appearance. To-day the music of the Campo troop returning
from the country drew us to the windows. One of the drummers and the player on a triangle had each a live fowl-donations, probably, of rural devotees.  While E  dropped some
coppers into a dish, I relieved the bearer of the holy emblem,
and bore it to an inner room, he imagining, of course, for the
family to salute. It consisted of a small piece of thin metal
struck up in a die, and resembled the spread eagle on some of
our soldiers' caps.  It was fastened in a tin case, little larger
than a blacking-box, with a piece of glass in front, and a handle at the back for holding it to the lips of worshipers. One
of the banners I also took in. The central part was of the color of snuff, and thickened and stiffened with grease, apparently




282                  SKETCHES OF
the accumulation of years from sweating faces, black and white,
and which time had hardened to the consistence of wax.
H      was employed this forenoon in releasing from the
press-gang a slave who slipped out last night in tamancos.
Another, belonging to the same family, was taken sick, when
one of his associates cupped him-a favorite African remedy;
many negroes are not less expert in applying than in removing
disease by it. The process and apparatus are of extreme antiquity.  The operator scratches the skin with a flint, places
the wide end of a sheep's horn over it, and sucks out the-air.
Negro chirurgeons uniformly prefer bleeding their patients in
sunshine, insisting that the effect is then most beneficial.
8th. I have repeatedly passed an auction store at the corner
of Ourives and Ouvidor. To-day printed bills were hanging
by the door.  I took one and stepped in. A long table extended from near the entrance to the low box pulpit of the
salesman. Behind it, a light iron railing cut off a portion of
the store. The place was filled with new and second-hand furniture, old pictures, Dutch cheeses,Yankee clocks, kitchen utensils, crockery-ware, old books, shoes, pickles, etc.-the very kind
of shop which a young Athenian once stopped a plain-looking
citizen in an alley to inquire after-that is, when Xenophon and
Socrates first met.
Vendues of these things are held here daily, and once or
twice a week another variety of merchandise is offered. This
was the case to-day-an assorted invoice of colored goods, arranged on benches behind the railing.  The catalogue contained eighty-nine lots, and each lot had a corresponding number
pinned to it, that purchasers, on running over the list, might
compare the articles with their description. These goods were
living beings. Every lot was a man or woman, a boy or girl.
There were fifty-three males, most of whom ranged between
eighteen and thirty years of age-carpenters, masons, smiths,
and country hands. One was a sailor, another a caulker and
boatman.  There were two tailors, a coachman, a saddler, a
sawyer, a squarer of timber (one expert with the adze), a
shoemaker, cooks, a cdffee-carrier, and a barber surgeon, who,
like most of his profession, was a musician —" No. 19, 1 Rapaz,
Barbeiro, bom sangrador e musico."




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   283
Of females, the oldest was twenty-six, and the youngest between seven and eight-washers, sewers, cooks, two dress-makers "muito prendada" - very accomplished.  Others made
shirts, dressed ladies' hair, etc. A couple were wet-nurses, with
much good milk, and each with a colt or filly, thus: "No. 61,
1 Rapariga, com muito born leite, corn cria." Cria signifies the
young of horses, and is applied to negro offspring.
They were of every shade, from deep Angola jet to white or
nearly white, as one young woman facing me appeared. She
was certainly superior in mental organization to some of the
buyers. The anguish with which she watched the proceedings,
and waited her turn to be brought out, exposed, examined, and
disposed of, was distressing. A little girl, I suppose her own,
stood by her weeping, with one hand in her lap, obviously
dreading to be torn away. This child did not cry out-that is
not allowed-but tears chased each other down her cheeks, her
little bosom panted violently, and such a look of alarm marked
her face as she turned her large eyes on the proceedings, that
I thought at one time she would have dropped.
"Purchasers of pots and pot-lids," said Diogenes, " ring them
lest they should carry cracked ones home, but men they buy on
sight." If such was the practice of old, it is not so now: the
head, eyes, mouth, teeth, arms, hands, trunks, legs, feet-every
limb and ligament without are scrutinized, while, to ascertain
if aught within be ruptured, the breast and other parts are
sounded.
The auctioneer, a tall, black-whiskered man of thirty-five, was
a master of his profession, if one might judge from his fluency
and fervor.  A hammer in his right hand, the forefinger of his
left pointing to a plantation hand standing confused at his side,
he pours out a flood of words. The poor fellow had on a canvas shirt, with sleeves ending at the elbows and trowsers of the
same, the legs of which he is told to roll above his knees. A
bidder steps up, examines his lower limbs, then his mouth,
breast, and other parts. He is now told to walk toward the
floor and back, to show his gait. As he was returning, the hamner fell, and he was pushed back within the railing. Another,
who had but four toes on one foot, was quickly disposed of.
The clerk next went behind the rails and brought forward a




284                   SKETCHES OF
woman-a  eld-hand.  She was stout, and seemed older than
reported in \he catalogue.  Dressed as sparely and plainly as
the men, she too was examined, and told to walk to and fro.
When near tle door, a bidder interrogated her, but on what 1
could not com rehend.  His last remark was translated plainly
by her raising her skirt to expose her legs. They were much
swollen.  Two hundred and fifty milreis was the sum  she
brought.
The sale, half over when I entered, was adjourned for an
hour. What became of the white woman and child I did not
learn.  One fact was most palpable-no more regard was paid
to the feelings of the victims than if they had been so many
horses.
Thus have I seen, for the first time in my life, the bones and
muscles of a man, with every thing appertaining to him, put up
for sale, and his body, soul, and spirit struck off to the highest
bidder- God's automata knocked down for less than Maelzell's
wooden puppets. They brought higher rates than bodies at
surgeons' halls; but, if negroes were worth more dead than living, the supply, it is said, would equal the demnand. That,
however, I do not believe; yet, from what I have seen, I should
say it were better-yes, unspeakably better-for many to be
knocked on the head in their youth, have their skins converted
into glue and their bones into ivory black, than endure through
life what some endure.
CHAPTER XXV.
Winter.-New Saint.-Lady do Parto.-An English Monk.-Black and white Infants in Purgatory.-Auction at a private Dwelling: its Furniture, Garden, Lares, Oratorio, and Slaves.-Barber's Basin and Shaving-cloth.-Mass and Capuchins.-Church of the Rosary, its Images and Ex Votos.-A sick Man. —Old
Slave.-Uncertain Origin of the Negro Saint.-Ramble through Nictherohy..fay 10. Winter is coming on apace.  Ladies are occasionally seen chilled and shivering as in an ague-fit, from the humidity of the air and absence of fires. Rain has depressed the
thermometer to 720. The little Cattete stream has again swollen, till barils, pans, and talhas are borne away, and dashed to



LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   285
gether in its whirling eddies-a scene like that from which the
ancient fabulist derived the story of the iron and the earthen pot.
The new saint was to make her debut to-day, but the wet
condition of the streets has induced the managers to postpone it
for a week. When it does take place, the Sugar-loaf, Corcovado, Tejuca, and Organ peaks will witness a piece of folly unequaled on the hemisphere since they raised their everlasting
heads.
"Leilao extraordinario, hoje Domingo, 10 de Maio, na rua
Novo do Conde, No. 167, Catumby." This was a favorable opportunity to look over the interior of a wealthy native establishment. Passing, on my way, the Lady do Parto's church, a
red cloth hanging in the doorway intimated that she was "at
home."  A fine-looking Mozambique, with a row of artificial
pimples down his nose and forehead, and perpendicular lines cut
ina each cheek, was making a leg and otherwise complimenting
lher. The only worshiper present, he turned his head, glanced
ait me, and resumed his address.  What on earth he could want
with her I could not imagine, nor what she could possibly do
for him.
I overtook the short and plump English monk,Father T    y.
HIolding up the skirts of his cassock with his left hand, his right
swung to and fro quick as an eight-inch pendulum. His skullcap, like an inverted saucer made of sticking-plaster, covered
the shaven circle of his crown, and stuck so close that, had he
been a Preto de Nagao, it might have been taken for the natural cuticle. I was about crossing the pavement to address him,
but a lady was approaching. As she drew near, she quickened
hter steps, snatched his hand, and in a twinkling her lips had,net it and left it with a chirp.  It would not do for priests and
friars to wear gloves here.
Near the door of a low venda (in Novo Conde) was a wooden cross, four feet high, secured in the pavement, and to it was
attached an alms-box, which presented the best piece of picturewriting I have met with. As the box was for soliciting contributions for souls, what form of words could so vividly portray
the torments of the sufferers, and show that all races and
ages are exposed to them, as an official representation of two
infants in perdition, and one of them a negro! There is not




286                  SKETCHES OF
a colored mother in the neighborhood mourning a lost child but here beholds it crying to her
for relief. What can she withhold to mitigate
its pains or snatch it from them? Nothing that
she has or call procure.  The box is a sermon:iI"'fl~i! 4 written in characters possessing perpetual Pentecostal properties.  To the men and women
assembled in this city from almost every nation?   under heaven, it speaks in their own tongues
iJ/ll  — dark strangers from Congo, Angola, Cabinda.;ir  the Gold Coast, and remoter regions of Ethiopia, red aborigines, fair children of Japhet, and
dusky descendants of Shem, and to all is equally explicit, if not equally effective.
Passing travelers can hardly refuse a trifle to
innocents thus beseeching them, with screeches.
tears, and uplifted hands, to drop some vintems
~ 1          in, and the rather when so small a sum as a pa-;__ ~ taca has been known to get one out.  Children
&-': whom death has deprived of a brother, sister, or
a playmate, often thus dedicate to affection presents they receive. Indeed, who of the faith can withstand invitations to shorten the purgation of departed friends, or fail in
this way to show the sincerity of their regard; and then, where
the finer feelings are not, self-interest steps in and induces many
to give, from a consciousness that when their turn comes their
sufferings will be thereby lightened.
The auction was at the adjoining premises. The front half
of the ground floor was paved, and served for entrance and
coach-house. Dark stairs led to the principal floor. The arrangement of the rooms and their finish reminded one of old
Dutch dwellings; two only were papered, the rest stenciled
three feet from the floor, and all above whitewashed.  No carpet concealed the dark flooring-plank in room, passage, or stairs.
The paraphernalia of our luxurious parlors would be out of
place. The furniture of the Cozinha was simple, and evidently
allied to the appurtenances of Greek and Rornan kitchens.
The usual cooking plate, with openings for pans, and a place
beneath for charcoal or a few sticks, a dresser and shelves over




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   287
it, and a marble slab for pastry, constituted the whole. Not a
stool or seat of any kind. The walls, for three feet up, were
lined with tiles, the floor paved; the window-frame, occupied by
iron scroll-work in place of glass, opened into a fine and large
garden. Half of it was divided off for kitchen vegetables, the
other cut up into fancy plots and fountain basins. Vases filled
with flowers stood on pedestals amid statues of the seasons and
of floral deities; and if gods or mortals got tired, sofas of stone
and shell work were every where at hand. The flowers were
*richer than Chloris ever wove in a wreath, but the trees, laden
with golden fruit, took my fancy most.
The plate, exceeding two thousand ounces, was the richest
part of the catalogue. The auctioneer, an elderly man, with
white and shaggy eyebrows, beard, and whiskers, surpassed inr
volubility —" hum milreis, dous milreis, tres milreis," and slap
his ivory hammer came down, giving for a moment rest to his
tongue and hirsute chin. The whole affair was managed precisely as with us, differing only in language and the absence of
females, who never attend.
The oratorio had an antique table for an altar, and on it the
lares that presided over the house and family-Our Lady, Antonio, and Jeronimo-three coarse wooden figures whose stature was a span.  Minds accustomed to worship through images require something before the bodily eye to exercise th{e
mental. Even those who, from intellectual culture, might be
supposed free from the infirmity, have their traveling apparatus.
Here was one which I took for a clothes-press, but, on opening
the door, an altar and images were carved in half relief against
the back.  The article is catalogued a " rico oratorio portatile.'
But for its adjoining the kitchen, an angel might seek to worship in this room, opening, as it does, on scenes of unusual
natural grandeur, as well as on the loveliest of the Creator's
works that a tropical flower-garden and its winged visitants caIn
display. Here are incitements to devotion which, if contemplated at all, must purify the coarsest souls, and throw torpid
ones into paroxysms of adoration.
While admiring the grounds, a man came rushing down stair,;
bawling Joao-Jose-Jose-Joao.  Presently two half-naked.
negroes threw down their hoes. He addressed three or four




288                 SKETCHES OF
words to them as they approached, and pushed both into the
passage, up which he hurried them.  "What did he say?" I
inquired.  "Come in to be sold," was the reply.  There was
something in the order and manner of it, its suddenness, and
the silent acquiescence of the poor fellows as they were driven
in, that at the moment thrilled through me. In form and spirit
it resembled an old sheriff's address on the morning of an execution to a prisoner, " Come out to be hanged."
We returned up stairs.  The salesman was expatiating on a
dinner-set.  Another bid, and down it went.  While applying
his glass to a catalogue for the next article, it was forced into
the crowded room close to him: "1 preto de rota de nome
Jose, de nagao Congo." Eyeing the lot a moment, he ordered
it to mount on a stool, and there, utterly abashed, the poor kidnapped negro stands. Apparently of dullish intellect, short,
stout, and about thirty years of age, a canvas shirt and pantaloons complete his dress. No scars are visible on him, but
he is shockingly disfigured with hydrocele. He is told to pull
up the longer leg of his trousers, then the other, next to turn
round, and, within a minute, to get down and follow his new
owner-a thin, meagre, wedge-faced old man, who bought him
for 420 milreis. Jose, from his age and build, was deemed a
prime plantation hand. The watery hernia did not reduce his
value ten dollars. As a horse, when sold, is transferred to the
purchaser in the cheapest kind of halter, so Jose could hardly
have been turned over to a new owner with a poorer fit-out.
Lot 124, "1 dito de nome Joao," was, with as little ceremony and loss of time, put on the stand, told to bare his legs,
breasts, etc., turn this way and that. He appeared more intelligent than Jose, and was described as possessing various qualities-he couldl "cook with stove and furnace"-brought 520
milreis.  A Mozambique next stepped up-a melancholy man
of middle life. Little was said of his acquirements. I understood hlie had not been long imported. He was struck off at
400 milreis to the buyer of Joao-a speculator.
The salesman next offered "Uma Cuya para mat6 com pe e
guarnidao de prata." The next article drove us off —a paliteiro.
The conflicting deeds and creeds of men who can reconcile?
Here, in one house, were Christians selling, and on the Lord's




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   289
day, into mortal thraldom, the bodies of living men, and next
door taking in subscriptions to redeem the souls of dead ones!
111t/. A smart young barber passes the window daily, with
a fac-simile of Mambrino's helmet under his arm-the bright
brass, wide-rimmed and scalloped basin being as common here
as in Spain when Cervantes wrote. While speaking of this,
singular enough, a present came in from my afflicted friend,
Doiia F    a; a piece of delicate cambric, not larger than this
page. It had a margin of flowers in needle-work, and, outside
of that, a border of lace. Ignorant of the use of this tiny mouchoir, I turned to E  a for information.  "I Ladies," she observed, " in the United States and England, present male relatives and friends with wrought slippers; here and in Portugal
it is an ancient custom to send them embroidered shaving-cloths.
The present is to wipe your razor on."
12th. The bishop, assisted by the Capuchins, celebrated mass,
on account of the empress being again in an interesting way.
More packages of worshiping machinery have come in from Italy. Two of the uncomely fakirs attended yesterday at the
custom-house to receive them.
H-  - having, according to appointment, joined me in Dereita Street, we turned up an old and narrow lane named, after
the Praying Abacus, Rua do Rozario. At the head of it stands
the ancient metropolitan temple, now a negro church, and the
only one conceded to the colored population. Here are genii
not met with in other temples, and to them our visit was intended.
At the door were three alms-boxes; on one the African's own
patron, curly-headed Benedicto, was painted; on the second,
Luzia, with a pair of eye-balls in her hand, appealed to us;
and on the third, pointing to the slit in the cover, stood the
Lady da Cabega, holding a human head suspended by a twine
or lock of hair, reminding one of Judith bearing off that of
Holofernes. A timid stranger, ignorant of the character of these
female beggars, might be led to imagine one a tigress that tore
out the eyes of non-contributors, and the other revenging herself by spinning round the decapitated heads of those who gave
her nothing.
Entering, we found the place a picture of desolation; nothing
T




290                 SKETCHES OF
visible but bare walls, ceilings, and decayed floors. The principal image, and those of the six side shrines we had come to
see, had vanished. The sacristan appeared, and led us into the
vestry, a large room, on one side of which an altar and apparatus
were fitted up. Every thing looked old, mean, and worn out,
for want of soap and paint. Being asked where the saints were,
he said four were put away in the garret till the church is reedified, and the other three are there, pointing to the altar. We
drew near, and contemplated the Lady of the Rosary, or "Do Tergo," as she is sometimes named, of the natural size. On one
palm a naked infant sits, and from the other a string of beads
-her emblem-hangs.  Near her stands the popular goddess
da Concei9ao, five and a half feet high. Her child is in a frock
and sash, which once were white and red, but now are neither.
From her arm is suspended by a ribbon a fresh wax votive
head-a female's, and differing from any yet seen. Its ear-lappets remind one of an Egyptian head-dress. In front of these
ladies is Benedict himself, black as jet, and rather low in stature,
the baby in his arms being any thing but a white one.
Here are by far the best-shaped wax votos to be found in
Rio.  Of seventeen heads, not one had blunted or inexpressive
features. Five had been taken from a bust of Demosthenes;
part of the females were also from classic models; and two,
judging from their bull necks, were Neros or gladiators. There
were three breasts, several abdomens, and a couple of hands.
Inquiring why there were no legs, arms, eyes, and feet, our informant said there had been many, but they fell and were
crushed.
While making memoranda in front of the altar, I was startled
by a groan at my elbow. I turned, and lo! a white man, of
forty-five or fifty, on his knees, almost in contact with me. lIe
had come in " on woolen feet." One arm was bandaged and
in a sling. He was cadaverous and evidently very sick. His
languid eyes were fastened on one of the images, to which he
began to pour out his sorrows in a suppressed voice. I withdrew, and, joining H, pointed to the supplicant.  "Yes,"
said H, with a shrug, "he told me yesterday he was coming to see if Nossa Senhora do Rozario would stop the running
sore in his arm." "But why come to a black church?" I asked.




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                  291
Xi I
"Because during the last eighteen months he has been to every
white one, without being able to interest a saint in his behalf.
The lady he is now consulting has her shrine in this place, and
saints, like physicians, must be called on at their residences.
Many whites come here for assistance, and some make vows
even to that blackamoor."
Our presence and talking, and the noise made by two romping colored boys, disturbed not in the least the poor man's devotions. In seven or eight minutes he crossed himself, rose,
bowed to the lady, dipped a finger in the lustral basin, and
went noiselessly away, giving H — a sign of recognition as
he passed.
We were about to follow, when an extremely old and infirm
female came tottering in, barefooted, with the aid of a staff. She




292                 SKETCHES OF
was nearly blind, had lost her teeth, and was the oldest slave
I ever saw. She stood a while to disengage from her skirts a
rosary composed of beans. A few coppers were put into her
hands; she rolled her yellow eyeballs, gasped and gurgled her
thanks, approached the altar, and knelt close to the patron and
kinsman of her race. We left her communing with him, probably the only consolation left her.
The cemetery of this church is large. The niches for the
dead are four deep, and all tenanted except two.
" Black Benedict" is generally considered an imaginary saint,
got up by the Portuguese with the view of more effectually
keeping slaves in subjection. I have interrogated several priests
on the subject, including Father Tilbury, but not one could say
who he was, where he dwelt, nor how and when he became canonized.
The portrait of him is a fac-simile of his "blessed picture"
given out to his devotees, and worn in their bosoms.  As a
specimen of art, it is a fair sample of those of other saints.
16th. A fruit-woman who brought in vegetables for dinner had
bunches of "witch-expelling rue" for sale.
I went over to Nictherohy. When on the Bay, the land before us appeared in gigantic heaps crowded together as if it had
once been overrun with monster moles or other hill-builders.
As we drew nearer, some which from the Rio side appeared inland, were in advance, as if they had waded out to meet us.
Low white houses skirt the Bay, and are rural rather than city
dwellings. Like country seats, they stand apart, have gardens
in front, and garden walls of brick and stone, plastered and
perforated with fancy apertures. Some are composed of panels
filled with inverted tiles piled on each other, their semicircular
ends, and cusped openings left by them, producing an agreeable




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   293
net-like appearance. Some are arranged to produce circles. As
they cost little and endure for centuries, I do not see why they
might not be introduced in fences with us. In form and dimensions they might be varied to meet every exigence. Between the water and these walls Rua da Praya extends —an
unpaved avenue, bordered next the Bay with mango and other
trees, beneath the shade of which, or even on the white, sandy
beach, a glorious promenade might be laid out.
I turned to the left on landing, and strolled along the beach
till a wall of rocks met the roaring surf. Cactus plants, common as thistles and docks with us, spring out of the crevices;
a row of palms varied the scene, and pitos here and there reared their graceful boles.  The pito is a species of aloe.  Its
light, spongy wood is the Pao do fogo-tinder-wood-of the
natives.
Retracing my steps, I walked in the opposite direction, where
things were more lively. Stores occurred, a small market-place,
and, farther on, a kind of ship-yard for repairing small craft.
Ferry faluas were coming in, plowing a path through the sand
till a plank answered as a bridge for their passengers. These
vessels are to Rio and Nictherohy what periaguas were thirty
years ago to New York and Jersey City. Hundreds prefer crossing in them than in steamers since the explosion of a boiler a
few years ago, when a great number of lives were lost.
A sign-board here recalled one of Le Sage's best characters:
"B, Sangrador, Barbeiro, Dentista; vendemse e aplicaose
bichas;" that is, bleeder, barber, dentist; sells and applies leeches. Piles of fire-wood were for sale; the bundles two feet long,
and each containing eight or ten sticks, whose section scarcely
exceeded a square inch.
3Most of the streets are at right angles to the beach. In few
are the houses continuous. A splendid park has just been laid
out, inclosing the old church dedicated to the patron of the city,
San Joao.  The population borders on three thousand.  Rua
da Imperatriz is the last one toward San Domingo, and has but
one side built on. A large house, with wide door and two open
flights of stairs, I took for the chamber of the Provincial Assembly, and passed up to a low gallery. No one was present, and,
being fatigued, I took a seat. It was the theatre, as the drop



294                   SKETCHES OF
curtain and side-scenes testified. After a while there arose a
burst of singing, then a measured dialogue, next came forth an
exclamation as of rage, and anon a stamp followed by a shriek.
The players were rehearsing.
I walked down the beach to San Domingo, passing a dog
four fifths buried in the sand by the action of the surf.  The
next tide will wholly cover it, and there it may possibly remain,
and furnish a fossil relic to geologists of the remote future.
CHAPTER XXVI.
Inauguration of a new Saint: how the alleged Bones were procured.-Buried in
a waxen Figure.-The Bishop's Letter. —The Affair generally condemned.Bedini and Miranda. -The Emperor declines joining the Procession.' The
Pomp.-The " Arca" and Saint within.-Official Account.-Newspaper Puff.A Visit to Priscilliana.-Miranda's Circular.-A French Tribunal on Religious
Impositions.
ifay 17. The imported saint is to be added to-day to the
Brazilian calendar, and her bones to the Church's treasure. Had
I been three centuries in the country I could not have witnessed
such an act, since nothing of the kind has heretofore occurred
on this half of the globe. Not a shrine in North or South
America is enriched with so much as a sacred leg, arm, or foot
brought from abroad. The introduction of a new saint into the
New World, in the middle of the nineteenth century, is therefore a fact of some significance in Church history. I shall give
the particulars a little in detail, and quote official documents.
Let it be premised, then, that the spruce vicar of St. Anne's
parish, a man of enterprise, versatility of genius, and address,
took a trip to Europe, and so won on the late Pope, that his
holiness conferred on him the titular dignity of "Monsenhor,"
and gave him access to the Catacombs. Whether his great feat
was conceived before he left home is uncertain; the general
opinion is that it flashed on him when abroad. Be this as it
may, the idea of procuring the bones of a saint, having them officially verified, duly prepared, and set up in his own church, was
a brilliant one, since, if carried out, he would have a shrine unique
in Brazil. Creditable to his sagacity and taste, instead of rummaging for a modern or medieval monk, he sought for an an



LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   295
cient martyr; and as the sex in his country is distinguished by
the title of " devout," he preferred a heroine to a hero.  Of innocents butchered in early persecutions, Priscilliana was one,
and her alleged bones were found and given to him.
The world is not so coarse and uncouth as it used to be. Ornate arts are acting the part of smooth files in reducing asperities left by old hatchets and rasps. The people of Rio are attached to the refinements of modern life, hence ghastly remains
of mortality are not so attractive to them as to their ancestors
and ours in less polished times. Relies, to be revered, must not
be repulsive.  Miranda, therefore, employed an artist in Rome
to bury them in a waxen figure of a beautiful girl, and another
to furnish her with appropriate costume; a third, also, to make
an " area," or chest, in which he brought her over, and in which
she is, and is to remain.
He arrived in January or February. On the 30th of March
the "Jornal" contained a notice of the saint, furnished, as generally understood, by him. It states that she was the daughter
of Priscillia, who devoted herself and child to the Church-succoring the persecuted members, visiting those in prison, collecting relics of the martyrs, etc. Priscilliana, when sixteen, was
arrested, confessed the religion of the cross, was tortured,
wounded in the neck by a sword, and eventually put to death.
She was buried in the Catacombs, and providentially found by
his eminence the Cardinal Patricio, vicar-general of Rome, and,
by the special grace of his holiness, given to Dr. M. J. de Miranda Rego. Near the body was a vase, containing her blood
mixed with sand, which was also given him.
It states farther, that the bones have been united and covered with wax, to represent the holy maid as she appeared before
her death; and farther, that the crown of her head has been left
uncovered, to show the cranium of the virgin; that the solemn
exposure and translation to the church of St.Anne of these precious monuments of religion, which the city of St. Sebastian has
the good fortune to possess, will take place as soon as their imperial majesties arrive, and in the form and manner prescribed
by his reverend excellency the bishop.
On the same day there will be installed a new brotherhood
of St. Priscilliana. Their duties will be to take charge of the




296                  SKETCHES OF
place where the holy relies will be deposited, assist in the celebration of a mass on the day of her feast, and to award to poor
maids, on their marriage, six hundred milreis, to the honor and
glory of the said virgin martyr. (See Appendix B.)
On the 14th of April the bishop's Pastoral Letter on the subject came out. It is characteristic; says much about Chrysostom, early piety, and general virtue, but little about the bones,
how discovered, how authenticated, and not a word about the
blood, or how it was obtained and verified. (See Appendix C.)
Before proceeding, it may as well be stated here that the affair is condemned by a large portion of the people. I have not
met with an individual who does not shrug up his shoulders
and pull down the corners of his mouth at the mention of it.
The idea has been scouted by the better classes of the government endorsing it, nor are the clergy of one mind. Many bitterly but privately oppose it.  My old friend the vicar has
been invited to assist in the translation. He declines. The
feeling against it is strengthened by the reputed character of
the projector. Pious ladies have said in my presence that the
bones of the saint had better have been left where they were
than that he should have any thing to do with them. Others
doubt their genuineness; to which it is replied, " If they are the
true ones, they will work miracles."
In the face of this opposition, the managers, with the nuncio
at their head, have not been inactive. Invitations to the numerous brotherhoods occupy the papers. Albs are offered to
poor members. There was a talk of having " eleven thousand
virgins" in the pomp, or as near that number as possible, but
too many parents refused to send their daughters. It was also
in contemplation to issue a general invitation to the ladies of
the city, and that idea was abandoned, so many viewing the affair with cold suspicion. The schools have been applied to.
Miranda begs the " Imperial Society of the Lovers of Instruction" to permit their pupils to walk in the procession, and offers
to supply twenty with appropriate attire at his own cost.
On the 8th of the present month the " Jornal" published this
official notice: "Procession of SXaint Priscilliana.-On Sunday, 10th instant, at four in the afternoon, the procession of the
holy relics of the virgin martyr St. Priscilliana will start from




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                  297
the church of St. Francisco da Prainha, passing through the
streets of Prainha, Imperatriz, and Largo Joaquim, to the church
of St. Anne. Their reverend excellencies, the bishops who are
in Rio, will bear the area at the commencement.  As soon as
the relics of the holy virgin are placed on the altar, a solemn
Te Deum will be chanted, and a sermon will be preached by
the Reverend Monsenhor Doctor Manoel Joaquim de Miranda
Rego.  Their imperial majesties will honor this religious solemnity with their presence."
The announcement, as may readily be supposed, moved scores
of native breasts with deep chagrin. Not till now did they believe it possible that the emperor could so far " disgrace himself and the country." But, while some glow with indignation,
others think it his duty to attend, irrespective of the genuineness or spuriousness of the relics; that neither he nor the Legislature can interfere, as both have sworn to support the Church,
and she is sole judge of her own matters. Such, in fact, is the
case. The Constitution binds government and people to the
papal chair; accordingly, the Church has put her crest or cipher on every public establishment; it surmounts the crown,
and is stamped on every coin. To oppose her is treason, literally. Editors dare not come out against the imposition, however convinced they may be that it is one. It is rumored that
the late bishop would never have given it his sanction, and that
the scruples of the present one have been with difficulty overcome by Bedini.
To allay the feeling elicited by the notice of the 8th, another
was issued on the 9th, stating that the emperor will not join
the procession, but will witness it from a window in the War
Department, a building close to St. Anne's church. This, it'was rumored, was a damper to the nuncio and his associates.
As we have already seen, the long-expected 10th of May
came at last, and disappointment with it, but to-day all looks
favorable. The air is cool and bracing, and the heavens are
neither in sackcloth nor tears. The pomp is to move at 4 P.M.
Determined to witness the apotheosis, I took a turn after dinner through the Campo to Rua da Prainha, the Water Street or
Wapping of Rio. The intervening avenues had been swept
and strewed with beach-sand and leaves. About one third of




298                  SKETCHES OF
the stores and dwellings were in gala dress. Strange-looking
ensigns, apparently priests' vestments, with crosses wrought on
them, and what looked like silk bed-quilts with lace borders,
were hung out of second-story windows, while national and sacerdotal banners waved from lines stretched across the streets.
The Prainha church stands amid timber and boat-builders'
yards, ship-chandlers and blacksmiths' shops, vendas and slopstores, all set off with strips of colored calico. Built on a precipitous rock, the pathway up rises twenty feet in almost as
many paces on the bare, unbroken granite. It will be a ticklish business for the nuncio and other reverend dignitaries to
get the saint and themselves down safely. One false step, and
the'"area" will descend of its own accord. While climbing
with caution the smooth surface, a negro lad slipped above and
rolled some distance past me, and but for a low wall that serves
as a balustrade, he had been whirled into the street and killed.
The door, with crimson strips tacked to its posts and lintel,
was closed, and I passed up an alley to the vestry, where, amid
a busy crowd of officers arranging bouquets, I observed two lots
of old votive wax-work. On the left of the door there hung a
foot, a head, a female's diseased breast, and parts of members I
could not make out. On the opposite wall, two distorted hands,
a leg, and part of a thigh were pendent from a single nail.
It was now past four. The street by the church was jammed, but I procured a good stand at the door of a venda, four
feet above the pavement, that commanded a full view of all that
passed.  For an hour and a half official personages and brotherhoods kept arriving and marshaling themselves in the ranks.
Such a numerous turn-out of the latter I have not seen. All are
bare-headed, and in albs and gowns so varied as to distinguish
every company — black, with white cords; blue, with white'
sleeves; black, with white capes; slate-colored gowns, with
cream-colored sleeves [these last were all colored men]. Here
are some in white albs and light blue tippets; yonder, in orange
and white; some in green, and some in cream-color wholly.
Every company has in front a crimson triangular bag or banner, between two imposing bouquets, on fancy ten-feet staves,
and every brother carries a five-foot candle, as yet unlit. It was
now near six, and I began to tire, and to wonder how reverend




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   299
managers can tell such fibs, like profane proprietors of public
spectacles.
At a signal the soldiers ranged themselves along the apologies
for side-walks, compelling spectators to get out of the way, or
fall in behind where they could. The hero in front of and in
contact with me (so straitened the place) was a black, and
his right-hand brother a white.  They talked, joked, and
laughed together as freely as if of one color. A dozen torches
now descend from the church, followed by the " area." Off go
spectators' hats!  The military, having slung theirs to their
belts, present arms to the saint now resting in the street, and
fire a feu de joie!  A second!  A third!  My colored neighbor, the carbinier, amused me greatly. He wished to save his
ammunition. Without dropping a grain in barrel or pan, three
times has he gone furiously through the manual of priming,
loading, ramming hard the widding, pulling the trigger, and
rubbing his hand over his perspiring forehead at the end of every shot; so that' if the officer's eye chanced this way, he will
be at no loss whom to promote.
The vanguard of brothers is now out of sight, so far does the
procession extend. The company now passing us is followed
by two hundred girls, dressed in white to their very shoes.
They wear low-skirted and long-sleeved frocks, with gauze veils
hanging behind, with a portion secured on the head in manner
of a hood by circlets of white roses.  They carry banners,
censers, incense-boxes of an antique pattern, bouquets, and
branches of palms. Few appear over ten years of age. They
are the most interesting feature in the spectacle.
Next come older innocents in more variegated garbs. 1. The
friars of the three monasteries of Anthony, Benedict, and the
Carmo. Their newly-shaven crowns, and the diversity in size
and color of their tonsures, irresistibly attract a stranger's eyes.
While the sacred spot is white and glistening in some, it is of
a leaden gray, and then of a bluish tint in others. The back
of every head, beneath a line drawn from the tip of one ear to
the other, is shorn and shaven smooth as their cheeks.  The
young monks seem to pride themselves on showing as full and
fair a surface there as in front.  I never saw human crania so
strangely treated with lathers, razors, tweezers, and depilato



300                 SKETCHES OF
ries. 2. Hosts of priests in new skull-caps, in crimson, black,
and other colored gowns and tippets. 3. The Capuchins, their
heads farther out of their cowls than ever; their coarse garb
and squalor contrasting well with the fat and delicately-trimmed
ranks whose rear they bring up. The sanguine, hirsute one
should have staid away. His red neck looks raw-a sight reminding one of any thing but the beauty of holiness.
They were succeeded by the ARCA or chest, under a canopy
held up by silver staves, three on each side. Bedini carries one
of the foremost; that abreast of it was designed for the emperor.
The area is five feet long, two deep, and eighteen inches wide.
[I subsequently measured and sketched it.]  The front and
both ends are of glass.
e7'     _7,  7
The figure within is that of a girl of twelve years reposing on
a light blue silk mattress, her head slightly elevated by two
fringed pillows, and turned to the spectators. The coronal region is left bare. The halo is a ring of wire, the ends buried
in the cranium. Her black tresses are gracefully gathered on
one shoulder, partly covering a gash in her neck, where a streak
and a few drops of blood are portrayed. The eyelids have a
bluish tint, said to have been caused by attempts to destroy her
sight. She wears a white silk tunic with pink sleeves. Skirts
of the same are continued below the laced border of the tunic.
On her feet are sandals of yellow leather. Her left hand grasps
a green parrot's wing-a fan; the other, half open, with the
palm upward, rests by her side. A scarlet scarf heightens the
effect, and, as I heard a lady say, " makes her look very pretty." The small vase, said to contain a portion of her blood.




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   301
and of the sand that mingled with it at her martyrdom, is at
her feet.
The Bishop of Rio, with a group of attendants, followed the
saint, his train, attached to his neck and shoulders, being held
up by three men some distance in his rear. Music came next,
then more troops, and finally the national banner. The whole
being now in motion, bombs were exploded, ordnance fired,
squibs and rockets kept flying overhead, and the bands playing
a swelling air. St. Anne's Church, in front, was emblazoned
with a cross of light, the bells chimed a welcome, and when the
area reached the door, scores of projectiles hurried off to heaven
to bear the tidings of the saint's arrival. The emperor and empress passed in from the adjoining building to receive her.
What then took place is recorded in subjoined articles from
the daily papers, with some particulars that escaped me.
".Santa Priscilliana, Virgem zlfartyr.-The most holy father, Gregory XVI., has been pleased to distinguish this bishopric with the precious relic of St. Priscilliana, which was yesterday solemnly deposited in the Church of St. Anne. The most
excellent and most reverend senhor, bishop, count, and grand
chaplain, published a pastoral letter establishing the ceremonies
to be observed in translating the relic, conformably to the instructions of St. Charles Borromea, the rubric of the Roman
ritual, and precepts of the Liturgy. His most reverend excellency recapitulates the life of the saint thus: [Here follows
the eighth paragraph of the pastoral-Appendix C].
" At 3 P.M. yesterday, in the Chapel of St. Francis da Prainha, in presence of his most reverend excellency, of the most excellent Internuncio, the most reverend Bishop of Chrisopolis,
Monsenhor the Vicar-general, the most illustrious and reverend
chapter, the reverend canon notary, the vicar and clergy of St.
Anne, the holy relic was verified and authenticated, the box
containing it was opened, and the pontifical brief read. Minutes of the examination were made, and signed by all present.
" After this ceremony the relic was incensed and exposed to
the veneration of the clergy and others present. Then followed
the procession, in which his most reverend excellency had invited all the brotherhoods and third orders, the reverend and




302                 SKETCHES OF
secular of the city, the most illustrious and reverend Cabido, to
join. They walked in the same order as in the processions of
the body of God and St. Sebastian. Between the ranks formed
by the third order of Our Lady of Carmo were two hundred
and fifty young girls, dressed in virginal vestments, with chaplets of white flowers, holding in their left hands bouquets of
natural flowers, and in the right small wax candles. From
space to space they chanted a hymn, which charmed the hearts
of spectators in whom the light of the Catholic religion is not
obscured by philosophic luminaries of the age. Toward the
close came the box containing the body of the holy virgin beneath a canopy, and incensed by two acolytes. In coming out
of the chapel, and for some distance from it, the body was borne
by his most reverend excellency, the most excellent Senhor
Bedini, the Senhor Bishop of Chrisopolis, and the Monsenhor
Vicar-general. Afterward the illustrious chapter took up the
holy burden, and were relieved at intervals by other priests.
"' The procession went through Rua do Imperatriz, Largo de
St. Joaquim, and thence to the Church of Sta. Anna. In the
passage were chanted the Litanies of the Saints, with invocations
of St. Priscilliana, the Canticles, Benedictus, Jfagniicat, etc.
Entering the church at half past 6 P.M., the area was incensed
and placed on the high altar. A Te Deum was chanted, then
an antiphony, verses and prayers from the' Commune das Virgems,' and a sermon by the vicar.
" The relic was then open to public veneration. His most
reverend excellency gives indulgence for eight days to the faithful of both sexes who are truly penitent, and have confessed
and communed, and who will visit the Church of St. Anne in
any of the eight days, and pray there for some time, following
the instructions of his holiness. These indulgences can be applied to the souls of the dead.
" The act of verification and translation will be recorded in
proper form and place; a copy will be framed and hung up near
the area of the virgin martyr. His most reverend excellency
has designated the 30th of August as the annual festival of St.
Priscilliana.  On that day the mass Ioguebar pro Virgine et
ilfartyre is to be chanted, and from the evening of that to sunset of the following day, the same indulgences will be conceded




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   303
as those granted by his reverend excellency on the eight days
of translation.
"A great multitude concurred in the solemn and pious act
of translation. The people crowded the streets through which
the procession had to pass; the windows were filled with the
beautiful and devout sex, who threw flowers upon the virgin
and the canopy.  Satisfaction was evident on every face, and
obviously emanated from true Christian sentiment."-Sentinella da lJonarchia of the 18t/h inst.
The presence of the emperor is not here noticed. The omission is said to have been intended as a slight, for this paper is
owned by V     s, whose gross immoralities, though an influential senator, young Pedro, to his honor, will not sanction.
From the IDiario.
"'MR. EDITOR,-As an obedient son that I am of the Roman
Catholic Apostolic Church, I could not refrain from assisting at
the translation of the virgin martyr, St. Priscilliana, to the
church of Sta. Anna, where she now is, nor from admiring the
magnificence, pomp, and decency with which the scene was celebrated-fruits of the efforts of the worthy minister of that parish, the Reverend Monsenhor Dr. Manoel Joaquim de Miranda
Rego, who filled [or conferred on] the translation with much
glory, and concluded that religious act by delivering an oration,
after Te Deum, in the august presence of their imperial majesties. His eloquence and his logic imparted the highest satisfaction to all who heard him.  The theme was brilliant; the
opening of the subject still more superior from the force of his
arguments-dignified, lucid, worthy of a Brazilian preacher who
is an honor to his country and to the ecclesiastical tribunes.
May it please the heavens to continue his brilliant career, and
that he may leave to posterity a name to be recorded by his
countrymen and impartial foreigners! Blessed mother! that
has brought up such a son for the glory of divine worship!
Praises to the Brazilian nation who endows her with a son so
useful in the pulpit! And praises to the Church who enjoys a
minister with such talents, and a pastor so respectable!
C A BRAZILIAN WHO HEARD HIM."




304                       SKETCHES OF
A  few  days after I called on Priscilliana.   Three soldiers
with bayonets stood on each side of the door, and more armed
centurions at the altar rails. An oval silver dish, such as graced
of yore barons' tables, was at her feet, piled to overflowing with
money.
The china vase containing the blood, palpably modern, is like
a coffee-cup with a cover.   Several donations of 100 milreis
each have been handed in to Dr. Miranda, and so have contributions of another kind-abusive letters, squibs, and pasquinades. Some of the latter were in print, and circulated to a limited extent during the procession. I obtained one, but it will
not bear translating.
As a whole, nothing could have been better got up than this
waxen figure to attract a superstitious people.   Such as it is, it
is officially recognized as " the sacred body of the virgin martyr
St. Priscilliana."
The reader has now seen how, in modern as in pagan days,
tutelary deities are made and miracles produced. A month did
not elapse before some wrought by the new saint were proclaimed.*
A French tribunal recently condemned a printer and a printpublisher for issuing an engraving of "the  apparition  of the
Holy Virgin to two children on a mountain of Sallette," as a
criminal attempt to foster superstition and to prey upon the vul* A letter from a friend, dated August, 1848, informs me that he had "just
called at the temple of Priscilliana, and was shown a closet full of miracles."
A printed circular of Miranda to the clergy is now before me. After stating that
divine Providence had made use of him, a weak instrument, as the bearer to Brazil
of the mortal remains of the glorious St. Priscilliana, and that, to improve the special favor of God, " the Brotherhood of the Holy Virgin Martyr Priscilliana" has
been instituted, he continues:
* Confiding in the piety and zeal that pervade the heart of your reverence, I invite you, in the name of the same virgin martyr, to take a part in this religious and
charitable work; giving it your valuable aid; inviting devout parishioners and
friends of your reverence to enroll themselves among the brothers of the holy virgin martyr Priscilliana; and for that end I fully authorize your reverence to receive
the names of new members, and from time to time to remit me a return of the
same, to be registered in the proper books, and also to receive the sums that may
I)e given on their admission. You are advertised that the initiation fee is not a
fixed one, the amount being left to the inclination and devotion of each individual.
The annual dues are fixed at one milrea. All persons, of every age, sex, condition,
or state, can be admitted into the order of St. Priscilliana, who will specially take
vour reverence under her protection for all services rendered to her order."




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                      305
gar. And are not the authors of this Brazilian tragedy-for,
viewed aright, it is one-worthy of the galleys for attempting,
at this day, still farther to dwarfen and stifle God's image in
their countrymen? With the masses, the sickly imagination
already sits, an incubus, on the prostrate judgment, and visions
of insanity are reckoned as realities.
CHAPTER XXVII.
A Day for getting Souls out of Purgatory.-Trip to the Falls of Tejuca.-Character of the Country.-Anacharsis and Charcoal.-Fat Pigs and Morphea.-Mills.
-Cotton-tree.-Coffee Plantation.-Tailless Dogs and Fowls.-Process of preparing Coffee for the Market.-Early Notice of Cauphe.-The Falls.-Dinner
and Dessert at them. —Inscriptions on the Gavia.
May 21. A general holiday.  In Minas the Ascension is celebrated in the church of Our Lady of Ampora, and indulgences
granted for seven years and eight months. Souls can be drawn
out of Purgatory to-day.* Without attempting any thing of that
kind, I was one of a party who withdrew from the heat and turmoil of the city, and sought coolness and comfort at the Falls
of Tejuca.  Mounted, and buoyant in spirits, we cantered at an
early hour through Engenho Velha, where I almost envied the
owners of paradisiacal chacaras. On the walls of one a huge
black monkey skipped and grinned. As we proceeded, dense
forests walled us in at either hand. A beautiful mount, perfectly isolated and covered with foliage, rose up, and farther on,
a granite pyramid, regular in outline in the distance as any in
Egypt. The road becomes more and more rugged as we enter
the gorges. Solitary habitations appear half way up horrible
precipices, and are overshadowed by protruding rocks one or
two thousand feet above them. How men reach and leave such
places without wings I can not perceive.
A short level spot occurs, and we gallop two abreast; anon
our animals, in single file, are picking their way amid boulders
down break-neck descents. In five minutes we are climbing
similar paths, and every mile drawing up to allow a string of
* Numerous days are marked in the calendar with the word " Alma." The explanation is invariably given: "A palavra' Alma' indica que se tira uma alma do
Purgatorio."
U




306                  SKETCHES OF i
charcoal-mules to rub past us, each carrying three bushels,
worth sixty cents in the city.  The compliment Anacharsis
paid the Greeks for thaus carrying wood into the cities and leaving the horrid smoke in the mountains is equally applicable to
the citizens of Rio.
At a venda, perched on a bluff by the road, a peon with refreshments was to have met us. IHe had not got up, and wee
breakfasted on eggs, bread, and coffee. The laughing sky, excitement of the ride, and sharpened appetites it had given us,
with the cheerfulness and gayety that animated all, made this,
I think, one of the most delightful meals I ever partook of.
The store was a dark little hole, with a stock of goods that I
should have hesitated at purchasing for ten dollars, and the
building for ten more. Stepping in, I stumbled over a black
yielding mass close by the counter-a sleeping pig-one that
more completely filled the rectangle of symmetry in farmers'
stock than any animal I ever saw. Of the common breed of
the country, it was said not to be unusually fat, yet its eyes
were half buried by its swelled-up chops.  I don't know that
the race possesses qualities superior to those in the United
States, but the short nose, sharp ears, small bones, thin skin,
its corpulence, " ready disposition to fatten," with other good
points familiar to cattle physiologists, made an admiring contrast with the tall, gaunt, coarse, flap-eared, long-faced specimens that perambulate some of our cities.  Their flesh is pretty nearly all lean, while Brazilian pigs are literally " all lard."
Pork-growers here reap richer, if not larger crops than are raised
in our Western States.
Droves of these animals are brought over the mountains from
Minas, in which province people live chiefly on pork, and are
consequently subject to morpliea, a species of leprosy, for the
cure of which guano is used. The patient is laid on a bed of
that substance, and his body covered with it, or a hole dug, and
all but his head interred.
Upon a fence close by, a three-foot cross, of hoop iron, told
us that some one's spirit had been disembodied there by a bullet, knife, or bludgeon. We came to a Moinho de Papel, driven
by a foaming streamlet. The paper, whity brown, was spread
over an acre of ground to dry.  Next we stopped at the Fonte




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   307
D'Aqua, Ferrea de Andarahy, a tiny rill of iron-water, to which
a pretty fountain structure has been dedicated.
Not far off, the very rheumatic undershot wheel of a clattering grist-mill was painfully whirling round, impelled by a furious torrent that danced and laughed at its groanings, and pushed and kicked it on.
The road presented as varied a succession of ascents and descents as a section of the ocean in a storm. At times it reminded one of traversing the ruins of some mighty Babylon,
where, at every step, fallen masses interrupted progress, and
awful structures were ready to tumble down. Tedious, and to
timid travelers somewhat dangerous, to thread the broken, abrupt, and tortuous tracks, no sooner was a moderately level spot
attained than most of the party, to make up for previous creeping, scampered off like flying Camanches.
The pervading material is bare white granite, that soars up
to heaven and descends into glens deep down below us, while
insulated masses, large as our largest mansions, lie tossed about
in all directions, as if the wars of the giants had been waged
here.  But wild and awful as the scene is, it is occasionally diversified with floral and horticultural gems, the ever-recurring
plantain and banana, clusters of pendent mamaos, air-plants,
creeping vines, graceful pitos, and stately palms. Young coffeeplants cover one mountain slope, full-grown ones another, and,
farther on, forests are being cut down to make room for more.
We paused a moment by a tree, large and wide-spreading as an
oak, conspicuous for being without leaves — the only one, I
think, that loses them in winter; but its fruit arrested my attention: hundreds of cucumber-shaped husks, some open at
their lower ends, and showing a white substance within. In a
week or two they will split wide open and fall, leaving compact
balls of snow-white cotton, which soon swell out large as human heads. This is the cotton-tree of old travelers. The fibre
is soft, short, and silky; it is used to stuff pillows, and has this
singular property, that when one of them is crushed or flattened, by simply exposing it to the sun, the contents swell it out
to its original form and volume.
Mr. O     led us aside to one of the best-conducted coffee
plantations in the province. The low mansion is seated in a




308                 SKETCHES OF
valley that angels might love to dwell in. A dozen times today, and now again, I have mentally exclaimed, " Oh, but this
is a glorious world, if we would view it through some other medium than dollars!" The proprietor had gone to the city, but
his amiable lady received us politely. She was followed about
by two parrots, which, from jealousy, chased each other from
her. Perfectly free, they take excursions abroad to scream and
chatter with their untutored kindred.
Familiar with the place, Mr. O - led us first into a long
barn, fitted up throughout with stalls. At the head of each, in
place of a manger, was a wide board on trestles. " What are
these?" I asked.'"Beds and bedsteads of the slaves."  Had
we passed through in silence, I should not have suspected the
place was any thing but a stable; still, it was clean swept,
and is said to be superior to the general run of slave accommodations. Against some stalls leaned bundles of torches, used
by travelers after dark, and kept for sale at vendas. They are
long splints of a resinous cedar, and are made by industrious
slaves on Sundays for their own benefit.  Mats and coarse
straw hats are also fabrics by which they earn a few coppers.
Here were two goats confined, the only milch cows on the
estate; and here were domestic fowls without tails, known as
the Sura breed. A couple of large dogs also, belonging to a
race that have no caudal members. In one place stood the
popular mandioca mill [described in a subsequent chapter].
We next witnessed the processes by which coffee on this estate is prepared for market. I think I have remarked that the
ripe fruit is not unlike a cherry in shape or color. The skin,
rather thick and tough, incloses two of the grains or seeds
known as coffee. The old procedure, still the prevailing one,
is this: When the berries have acquired a deep red, they are
picked into bags, thrown into heaps, and spread out on level
spots of ground to dry in the sun. In front of a chacara, on
the face of a mountain full seven hundred feet above us, I observed, as we came along, the entire surface of a detached tablerock, presenting several thousand superficial feet, covered with
them.  When the skins become shriveled, hard, and almost
black, they are pounded in wooden mortars. The blows break
the skins without injuring the tough grains. By sifting, the




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                          309
latter are separated and again laid out to dry, till a pellicle enveloping each grain is deprived of moisture, when a fresh appeal
to the mortar and winnowing-fan leaves them ready for sale or
consumption.
The improved mode consists in drying the grains on wooden
trays or beds of slate, by which an earthy flavor, acquired when
dried on the soil, is avoided; and in the introduction of two
mills for removing the outer and inner envelopes. The chief
feature of the first mill is a horizontal copper cylinder, whose
surface is roughened after the manner of a rasp. It revolves
against a board, between which and the teeth space is left for
the grains to pass, but not the husk. The grains drop into water, and are left to soak twelve hours, by which a mucilaginous
matter is removed, and the thin parchment film inclosing each
grain softened.  They are spread out in trays to dry.  I counted 200 of these in one row, covering a space 700 feet by 15.
When completely dry, the grains are taken to a mill resembling those used for grinding plaster, except that the two vertical rolling discs are wood, six feet in diameter, and five inches
thick. Their light weight suffices to break and abrade the pellicles without injuring the grains. After being subjected to a
fanner, they are put up in bags for exportation.*
Resuming our journey, we overtook four slaves conveying
lumber from the city. Each bore on his head two or more
planks. Another advance, and we hear the Tejuca stream tumbling among rocks at our left, but concealed below among shrubbery and crags.  More precipices covered with coffee-plants occur, and men like midges picking the fruit. How they retain
foothold, especially when working the soil, is wonderful. Plows
* Of the decoction of coffee, which was not introduced into Paris till 1667, nor
into London till a few years after, Henry Blount, in his Voyage to the Levant in
1634, thus quaintly speaks:
" They have another drinke not good at meat, called Cauphe, made of a berry as
bigge as a small beane, dryed in a furnace and beat to powder, of a soote colour,
in taste a little bitterish, that they seethe and drinke hote as may be endured: it
is goode at all houres of the day, but especially morning and evening, when to that
purpose they entertaine themselves two or three hours in Cauphe-houses, which in
all Turkey abound more than innes and ale-houses with us. It is thought to be
the old black broth used so much by the Lacedcemonzans (!). It dryeth ill humors in
the stomacke, comforteth the braine, never causeth drunkennesse or any surfeit,
and is a harmelesse entertainment of good fellowship."




310                 SKETCHES OF
are wholly out of the question in these regions, unless drawn
by goats, and Pan himself turns plowman. The scene grows
wilder; we are surrounded by stupendous peaks, and before us
the mighty Gavia towers, quite altered from its city aspect.
Here are rocks scattered in profusion, and varying in dimensions from hogsheads to ten-story houses. The road winds
among them, and at one place but eighteen inches are left for us
to pass through. A singular variety of granite appears in two
or three immense blocks of a bluish slate color and close grain,
differing in toto from all around. A patch of the ocean becotnes
for a moment visible at the extremity of the glen, through which
the Tejucan River is hastening to the universal reservoir.
We reached a woody cliff, on the edge of which a miserable
venda stands. Fastening our cattle to protruding roots of
trees, we climbed the ascent, passed through a banana orchard,
went down a winding foot-path for one fourth of a mile, and
emerged from the forest upon the glistening floor of our selected
dining-hall, at the foot of the falls of the Tejuca. Here our peon
had arrived with a basket charged to the brim with refreshments.
A rather small body of water comes tumbling down some
sixty feet upon a broad and broken descent, inclining 250 from
the perpendicular. The thin sheet pouring over the top is divided as it falls, so that not half the precipice is covered by it.
Collecting below us at the edge of the enormous table-rock on
which our repast was laid, and gliding by, only a few inches
beneath our feet, it expands again, dances down short rapids to
another fall of a narrow shute, and soon is in the arms of Oceanus. In this secluded retreat the Bishop of Rio lay concealed
during the troubles with the French Protestants in Coligny's
time. Remains of a wall built by him were pointed out.
But thejantar now, more than aught else, attracted us. It
included a condiment, not put in the basket, that surpassed anchovy and curry sauce in heightening the flavor of every thing
mixed with it —" St. Bernard's mustard," an essence distilled
from abstinence and activity. Our table extended into the channel, and there we reclined and banqueted among scenery far excelling that which Pliny's Laurentinum dining-chamber opened
on. Shielded from the sun by nature's parasols, far from the
busy scenes of artificial life, not a carking care to trouble us,




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   311
and our spirits airy as our dresses, we laughed, and talked, and
dipped our cups in the crystal stream as people did in the Golden
Age. Flora adorned the hanging shrubbery; Pomona, from the
distance, looked on; zephyrs played round us; and naiads-if
naiads there be-frisked in the falls, and threw spray at us as
they glided by.
lIad the gods of Olympus and their ladies been on a visit to
the gigantic Gavia, which now overshadowed us, they would not
have waited for an invitation to our luncheon. They did not
make their appearance, but other guests, as little expected, did
-a couple of black hunters. Not daring to approach nearer
than thirty feet without permission, they held up their game,
the principal item being a black opossum. After waiting a while,
they consulted together and vanished. In half an hour they reappeared with branches of orange-trees laden with ripe fruit.
These they brought, and in silence laid them at our feet. The
appeal was not in vain.
Half way up the cataract a protruding rock protects a tuft of
vegetation. Messrs. C — and O- challenged the rest of
the party to reach it with a stone.  Stones, however, were not
at hand, but oranges were, and three dozen were sent flying at
the mark, while only one attained it. The rest came leaping
back, and, swimming past us, were soon tossing on the ocean.
Close to and immediately facing us, the highest peak of the
Gavia soared in the blue vault. It has long puzzled the learned
with its inscriptions. With a good telescope we made out several marks, something like I Hx A 1711. Though to the eye
these appeared of no unusual dimensions, they were probably
thirty feet in length.  It need hardly be said that they are natural sculptures. No mortal stone-cutter ever reached them, nor
could any now stand to carve them except on a platform raised
on balloons. If, as has been suggested of other characters on
the opposite face of the peak (in the Journal of the Geographical
Institute), they are to be referred to people of the primitive
world, they will go far to prove that Roman letters and numerals were taught in schools myriads of ages before the flood, and
that scientific navigators, in those early days, were cruising on
these shores.




CHURCH OF SANTA RITA.
CHAPTER XXVIII.
Church Advertisements. —Auction and Fire-works at St. Rita's Church.-Articles
sold.-Official Puff.Horse-racing in honor of the Holy Ghost.-St. Gonvalo
the Friend of the unmarried.-Capuchin preaching.-Two Slaves given to the
Friars, and their Baptism by Bedini.-Chief Capuchin. —Priscilliana.-Famine
in Ceara.-Indians bought and sold.
illay 23. Church advertisements again abound. Specimens
may be serviceable when a general history of religious vagaries
is undertaken.




SKETCHES OF LIFE IN BRAZIL.             313
" The Board of the Brotherhood of the Divine Holy Ghost
of the Parish of Sta. Anna participates to the respectable public
that the Feast of the Divine Holy Ghost will begin on the 31st
inst.; St. Bartholomew's on the 1st proximo; and that of Jesus,
Mary, and Joseph, on the 2d, with all splendor compatible with
the means and zeal of the administrators. On the third day of
the Feast of the Holy Ghost there will be fire-works, such as
have never before been exhibited, and superior from their magnitude and novelty of their mechanism. On Sunday, June 7,
the Emperor elect of the Holy Ghost will take possession, which
act will be followed with a Te Deum and sermon. At night
there will be the Empire and the Auction. We beg the brethren and the pious to concur, with their alms and their presence,
to make more brilliant acts so worthy of our religious regard.
"JOSE J. G. FERREIRA, Sec'y."
The emperor is a boy elected annually, and crowned in the
church. His "empire" is a portion of ground adjoining the
church, and fenced in for spectators, including the stage erected
against the church, on which he sits enthroned, to preside over
the auction and amusements. Formerly an Empress of the
Holy Ghost sat by the Emperor, with little maids of honor to
wait on her. Such is still the practice in the interior.
" The Brotherhood of the Divine Holy Ghost of the Convent
of Friars of the Carmo, in the Lapa do Desterro, inform the public and devout persons that on the 22d inst. begins the Novena
of the Ritual, and on the 31st the Feast of the Holy Ghost.
On the Ist proximo the Feast of our Lord of the Paces; and on
the 22d, that of Sta. Anna and St. Joaquim-all of which will
be celebrated with appropriate magnificence. Every night there
will be music and an auction. On the last one, beautiful fireworks."
" The Chairman and Directors of the Divine Holy Ghost of
the parish of St. Rita inform the respectable public that to-day,
22d inst., will begin, with much pomp and decency, the Novena
and Auction. They hope the brethren and the pious will contribute, by their presence and their alms, to the brilliancy of
the Feast."




314                 SKETCHES OF
I thought of accepting this last invitation, but F - said,
"It is a long way to go, and there will be a poor sale to-night.
Wait till the great day of the feast; then almost every person
sends a present to the Holy Ghost, and there will be a Bom
Leilao." After tea, however, I felt inclined for a walk, and bent
my steps to the city by lamplight. Calling at T -'s, Messrs.
C     and M     - readily joined with me in a visit to the
neighboring shrine of Santa Rita. A day view of this old structure and the adjoining fountain is shown on page 312. To be
in character with our visit, it should have been a night scene.
As we drew near, the church tower was seen decked with
colored lamps, and the white front red as blood with the glare
of flambeaus in the little triangular largo. The scene which
then burst on us was more suited to the suburbs of Tartarus
than the court-yard of a heavenly lady. Nine young negroheads, soaked in tar and tallow, and stuck on poles let into the
pavement, were blazing before the church, amid the shouts and
laughter of a crowd of men and boys, both black and white.
The air was suffused with smoke, whose dense curling volumes
appeared white in the universal darkness overhead-the sickening odor, hissings and spurtings of bursting blisters, the grinning visages of the restless throng-now lost to sight, and anon
lit up with fire, as the wind affected the flames. There is but
one place which such a scene could call to mind. But, lest the
reader should denounce the goddess of the place a she-Moloch,
delighting in roasted skulls, he is informed that the festival
torches-" Cabefas de  fioleques" —are spherical masses of
oakum saturated with pitch and kindred matters.
We passed into the fane between two armed centurions at
the door. Hung round with showy tapestry, it was brilliantly
lit up. The lady's altar was a sheet of light. At a table on
the floor sat a committee bartering "blessed pictures" for vintems and patacas. There were three qualities and sizes-quarto,
octavo, and duodecimo. When a contribution was laid down,
the chairman, eyeing it, spoke to the brother at his right, who
then drew from a drawer a print of the proper value, while the
treasurer, at his left, added the money to a pile on a silver tray.
As usual at festivals, two soldiers, with fixed bayonets, stood
by to guard the treasure.  Senhor M-   procured for me one




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   315
of the paper gems; printed in red ink, it represents a dove and
triangle within a nimbus, and over them an old man, with a long
beard, looking out of a cloud.
After looking round a while, we crossed the floor and passed,
as did most of the visitors, through an open door into an adjoining apartment, and found ourselves in a crowd. The room was
long and narrow, and the benches on both sides jammed with
men and boys. Against the left wall sat' three brethren in official robes, and before them a table, upon which stood, between
three-branched candlesticks, one of the portable symbols of the
Holy Ghost carried by street collectors. Between the benches,
a short brother, in an alb, was walking to and fro, and addressing the congregation with perspiring fervor. Every moment he
kept applying a handkerchief to his streaming forehead. As he
drew near, I perceived that he was descanting on a sugared cake
which he held up on a salver. We were in Santa Rita's auctionroom, and this gentleman was her salesman. The cake was
knocked down; the purchaser handed a bill to the auctioneer,
who hurried to the table, and returned with the change and a
A   i
AUCTION IN SANTA RITA'S CHURCH.




316                 SKETCHES OF
small print-such as were being disposed of in the churchevery purchaser at the auction receiving one gratis.
Several large frosted cakes were put up, but the sale dragged
heavily. The salesman was far from being an expert; he lacked volubility and wit. A laugh was now and then elicited, but
seldom by his own jokes. He was much annoyed by young
fellows predisposed to fun, and determined to enjoy it: they
tried his temper severely. There was, in truth, something about
him that whetted humorous appetites, as he came puffing along,
holding up the salver to every face that looked like a buying
one, and repeating, with a supplicatory tone and look, "Iitum
mnilreis- huna milreis-hSum milreis, Senhor." His head, half
isolated from his body by the alb, and nearly denuded of hair,
with his glistening face, was incessantly drawn this way and
that by bids which he could find none to acknowledge. At
length a quiet-looking young man made an offer, and was declared the purchaser. The article was handed to him, and, lo!
he had no money! The enraged knight of the hammer seized
him by the collar, and led him to the managers at the table amid
roars of laughter. As he had no means of payment, nothing
could be done but to reprove him and let him go. A gentleman
took the lot and paid for it —or, rather, exchanged money for it.
Nothing sacred is sol&, only exchanged. We, of course, would
consider these transactions cash sales; for the terms are cash on
delivery, and delivery immediately.
Every eye was again turned to the recess or niche behind the
managers, to see what next would be brought out. An officer,
in a black gown and white tippet, who seemed to have charge
of the goods, handed forth something, which the chairman no
sooner passed across the table than there arose such a clucking! It was a live hen. Grasped by the thighs, it appeared to
sit quite comfortably on the auctioneer's hand. It was struck
off at fifty cents-double its market value. Next came a superb white chanticleer-the signal of a general crowing and
clapping of elbows in imitation of wings. One or two young
men were natural ventriloquists; the cock-a-doodle-do-o-o-ing
came in at the street door, then out of the church, and anon was
under the mnanagers' table. The merriment was universal. The
fluttering bird brought 1260 reis-62 cents.




LIFE IN BRAZIL.' 317
A large custard was now tried, and the buyer turned out to
be the one that had no money: he said he would call to-morrow for it! This gave rise to a general screech, and led to a
scuffle between the bidder and the bantered salesman. The
dispute was ended by a higher bid; but when the article was
offered to the new bidder, he said it was too hard baked, and
would not take it! The vender became furious; but, recovering himself, he said it was too hard for such a fellow's teeth
— meaning too costly for his pocket.  The fillip was applauded, and the little man, tickled with the hit, threw back his head,
and laughed louder and longer than any one else.
He next brought round a folded paper. contents unknown.
He refused to break the envelope, or say what was within. It
brought 300 reis, and proved to be cold roast chicken. Three
"6Macai8s Americanas" (Newtown pippins) brought thirteen
cents each. A lady informs me she has known fifty milreis, or
twenty-five dollars, given for an apple at this feast, the competitors showing in this way their attachment to the Church.
Other matters were put up; but I got tired, and left the auctioneer trying a large plum-cake, over the frosted top of which
he kept drawing his hand, as if stroking the back of a pet bird
or rabbit.
Most of the articles sold at these ecclesiastical auctions are
purchased at wholesale prices by the managers, and thus retailed at profits varying from 50 to 500 per cent., the donations brought in by collectors not being sufficient, nor always
suitable. One of the best specimens of the salesman's eloquence is the following scrap, translated by an accompanying
friend:
" Twenty-five-thirty-thirty-five vintems for this blessed
cake; blessed by the Holy Father Xavier Maria Luiz Oliveiro.
Who bids more? Thirty-ah! the good-will of Our Lady be
with you, my friend. Forty are bid!-only forty vintems for
food which will purge all diseases lurking in him that eats it.
The saints befriend you, Senhor. Forty-five! Who is the
next bidder? Who?  Forty-five! Allelulia!  Fifty vintems
are bid-it is enough-and," taking the money, "may your
victuals be always as sweet as you'll find this, Senhor!"
No females were present.  Though respectable families are




318                  SKETCHES OF
invited; it was obviously no place for ladies. One of my companions belonged to the Church, and, in answer to my inquiries,
said the place was wholly unfit for respectable females to appear
in. Of the evening's entertainments the following puff was inserted in one of the daily papers:
c" AIR. EDITOR, —The auction of the Divine Holy Ghost, in
Santa Rita, to be continued to the 3d proximo, is very interesting. The select company that assembles there, the order and
decorum with which the auction is conducted, reflect credit on
the providor and managers.  Permit me to invite, through your
columns, all devotees of the Miraculous Holy Ghost to attend,
with their families, in order to increase the brilliancy of this devotional exercise.                         UM  DEVOTO."
The same paper had the following notice to sporting devotees:
" The Brotherhood of the Divine Holy Ghost of San Gon9alo (a small village across the Bay) will hold the Feast of the
Holy Ghost on the 31st instant with all possible splendor. Devout persons are invited to attend, to give greater pomp to this
act of religion.  On the 1st proximo the Feast of the Most Holy
Sacrament, with a procession in the evening, a Te Deum, and
sermon. On the 2d, the feast of the patron San Gon9alo; at
three P.M. there will be brilliant horse-racing, after which a
Te Deum and magnificent fire-works."
As I shall not have an opportunity to pay a visit to Gongalo,
I may as well remark here that he is a popular friend of Portuguese and Brazilian elderly single ladies. Young ones invoke him too, but in a petulant spirit. Their staple address is:
"San Gonqalo of Amarante,
Match-maker for old women!
Why don't you marry young ones?
What harm have they done you? "
The Carmelites at the Lapa Church surpass St. Rita's managers in external display. The front is covered with festoons
of colored lamps, cords stretch from. the roof bearing flags and
tapestries. A handsomely draped stage for the auction is fitted




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   319
up at one side of the doorway, and at the other a band of musicians sit.  The fire-works are not confined to blazing skulls
of negroes, for on high poles stand men and women waiting to
be consumed. But, after all, the festival is not very attractive
during day or night. The auctioneer has neither tact nor wit,
so that his sales drag heavily.  The poorest of artists he is, to
use a native proverb, "a John Lopez-neither vinegar, honey,
nor Malmsey wine-nothing."
Pyrotechnists notify the churches of new and cheap fogos,
heading their advertisements with vivas for the saints, particularly Anthony and John.
The Capuchins announce for public veneration a relic just arrived from Rome. Another notice runs thus:
"On Sunday, 24th, will be celebrated the Feast of St.Fidelis
de Sigmaringa, proto-martyr Capuchinho, with a solemn mass
by the excellentissimo senhor, the Internuncio Monsenhor Bedini. Preaching by the Brother John Baptist de Caserta, Capuchin missionary. The feast will begin at 9 A.M. In the
evening a sermon, and the Litany of Our Lady, with other devotions; to conclude with the presentation of the relic of the
holy martyr to be kissed.  We all must imitate the examples
of those who, faithful to God, confessed with an apostolic bosom
the faith of Jesus Christ, and sealed it with their proper blood.
Behold the true age of light!"
A lusty brother preached.  His voice was small for so large
a man, weak and soft as a woman's.  His theme was Fidelis,
whose image stood before him. The pathetic is his forte. Dilating on the sufferings of the saint, he rose from smothered
groans to thrilling wails, pressed his hands to his breast, threw
them toward Fidelis, and stnk every five minutes on his seat
to suffer his emotions to subside. About 200 persons were
present, the greater part females. During the sermon a brother
was dealing out pictures of Fidelis.  The little temple was improved in appearance. A series of oil paintings of Capuchin
worthies occupied the walls; among them, " Crispim de Viterbo." The main altar has been touched up, and the wax votos
suspended by fresh ribbons. An additional female saint, of full




320                 SKETCHES OF
stature, was there; a naked baby plays at her feet, and a smaller sits on the palm of her hand, reminding one of the Pompeian
picture of Leda.
The preacher being through, the nuncio entered on the part
advertised for him, and subsequently performed another not
mentioned in the papers. In an embroidered gown, assisted by
two priests, he perfumed the altar, candlesticks, and images by
shaking a censer among them. A country bishop, with a fiveinch cross on his breast and a skull-cap on, stood at one side,
and to him the nuncio swung the smoking vessel, receiving a
smiling inclination of the head in acknowledgment of the official
compliment.
At one part of the performance two men stepped behind Bedini, and stooping, raised his skirts to the small of his back,
then, after a pause, threw them over his head, and bore the garment away. He then stood in a cream-tinted gown, gathered
round his waist with a cord. By-and-by the disrobers reappeared, stood by him till he untied the ends, tucked up the
skirts, and whisked them in like manner away, leaving him in
a cambric camisa. A little while, and the spoilers came and
stripped him of that also! I almost expected to see him in
buff, but he now shone forth in a crimson tight cloak or coat
that would have given his valets some trouble to get off. The
place was not suitable for equestrian exercises, but those changes
of apparel were very suggestive of a popular performance of
circus-riders.
The performances ended, many left, but I learned that two
young slaves, given a few days ago to the Italian friars, were to
be baptized, and their transfer formally ratified.  Capuchin
names were given them-Bernard and Bernardine. Till matters were ready, the nuncio, as if desirous of continuing his devotions, came and knelt near the front bench by the spectators.
He had no book, but closed his hands and looked on them.
Meanwhile, the sacristan, a brisk old man, got into a spicy dispute with one. of the monks about the proper passages to be
read on the occasion. First one took the book, then the other,
and to end the matter they rushed to Bedini. The eyes of the
friar glistened apparently with anger, the sacristan drew down
the corners of his mouth, and both, as the still kneeling nuncio




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   321
turned over the leaves, rolled out their arguments. He seemed
himself at a nonplus, when the zealous sacristan fairly snatched
the book and pointed to the appropriate captions. Familiar
with all usages respecting slaves, the inexperienced foreigners
had to yield to him.
The defeated friar went out and returned, leading two lads,
about ten and eleven years of age, accompanied with their owner, whose head was of a singular conformation. The occipital
region descended down his neck, and being bare, appeared like
a tumor overhanging his vest collar. After conversing again
with the friar, the nuncio rose from his knees; the sacristan
brought in a scarf, the nuncio kissed it, stooped his head, and
the friar threw it over his neck. The helots were now placed
before him, when it became evident that he did not comprehend
the formula, for twice the sacristan took the volume and turned
to the appropriate pages. Bedini now crossed the air over the
boys' heads, read, then put his face to theirs, and breathed three
times on each; read again, stopped, and, putting out his tongue,
brushed off a portion of its moisture with his thumb, ordered
Bernard to thrust forth his organ of taste, and transferred to it,
by a dab, a portion of his own saliva. Bernardine was told to
expose his flexile member, but the lad was confounded, and
kept it concealed within his teeth. Not till the angry sacristan
shook him could a portion of the fluid secreted by his excellency's salivary glands be got into the little fellow's mouth. With
the same holy spittle were their breasts, necks, and collar-bones
anointed.
Entirely novel to me, the ceremonies increased in interest.
The nuncio changed his scarf for one of another color, took from
a saucer a pinch of salt, and rubbed it on the lads' foreheads,
upper lips, and, to remove the insipidness of the saliva, as I
supposed, their tongues also. A friar next produced a small
morocco case, containing three minute oil-bottles, with stoppers,
to the under sides of which minikin spoons were attached.
With a piece of cotton wool, on which the sacristan emptied
one of the spoons, his excellency rubbed the neophytes' foreheads, lips, breast-bones, and napes of their necks. To facilitate the last operation, the sacristan roughly bent down their
heads, and, with a promptitude that must ]have caused them
X




322                  SKETCHES OF
pain, a spoonful from another vial and another sponge was
transferred to the same places and by the same processes.
The lads were next led to a table, brought in for the occasion, on which were a large tray and a long-necked vase, both
of silver. A Capuchin took Bernard, and called on his owner
to lay his hand on the lad's shoulder while the nuncio read
some particular passage. This was done, and the boy's head
bent over the tray for his eminence to pour water from the
pitcher on it. The liquid rolled off in drops like rain from
ducks' feathers, but the inexorable sacristan was not to be thus
defeated. Holding the head down on the tray with one hand,
he took the end of a towel, rubbed the fluid in, and so energetically as to draw smiles from other faces besides mine. As
soon as Bernardine was served the same way, the performance
was complete.
Seeing nothing of the relic that had been advertised, I made
out to ask the picture-man, who still sat at the receipt of custom. His reply was, "Quatros horas da tarde."  As I could
not return at four in the afternoon, I never learned what it was
-whether a bone, lock of hair, a toe, a finger, or a foot.
On leaving, I stepped for a moment into the vestry.  The
clouds on either side of the Virgin's shoe-sole were enlarged,
and the central parts tinted as with bistre.  The chief of the
Capuchins was busy, as on a former visit, selecting linen out of
drawers, holding the pieces up to the light, rejecting some, tucking others under his arm, and then vanishing toward the images, his bare feet in slip-shod, clattering tamancos.
28th. Yesterday an old lady, long confined by a painful disorder, insisted on being taken to Priscilliana's shrine, having
wrought herself into the belief of the saint's ability and willingness to help her.  The exertion and excitement were too much
for her. She was carried from the church exceedingly ill, and
I-, who knows her, says her recovery from the shock is
doubtful.
A deputy from Ceara spent the evening with us. The famine now raging in that province, he says, is worse than as described in the papers-too horrible, he says, to be described.
As with previous calamities of the kind, the drought has killed
all vegetation.  Cattle, the great staple of the province, have




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                  323
perished, and next, men, women, and children. In extensive
districts not a pint of water was to be had. Rivers were dried
up, and in towns where it was usually in plenty near the surface, wells had to be deepened from twenty to thirty feet. All
who could flew to the coast for relief, and thousands perished
by the way. Before he left the capital, twenty-six thousand
persons had applied for bread. In dealing forth small measures of mandioca, maize, and beans, a hundred hands would be
stretched out to snatch at them. Indians-even Indian mothers-brought in their boys and sold them to the navy for food.
Previously it was difficult to get an Indian lad under seventy
milreis, but now their parents, having nothing for them or themselves to eat, freely offered them for ten. The drought was fobllowed by locusts that consumed every particle of remaining vegetation. Pestilence succeeded the locusts, and now yellow fever is sweeping off its victims at a fearful rate.
Private charity had become exhausted, the government had
done nothing or next to nothing, and no sister province except
Maranham had sent them aid. A subscription was begun in
Rio, but it fell through. Their representative is disgusted with
the apathy manifested by the Chambers. "There are plenty
to talk, but none to act. Words are women, deeds are men.
The only thing to bring them to their senses is to get up a
revolution." There is a bitter feeling at the north against the
government for spending two or three hundred thousand milreis
on illuminations and trumpery pageants here to flatter the young
emperor and his wife on their return, and millions on his junketing down south, while so many are perishing for lack of life's
first necessaries.
The people of Ceara, he admits, are improvident as Indians
-not one whit better. Granaries stored with one or two years'
provisions would prevent these recurring famines, but the people have no thought of, and no care for, to-morrow.
Indians appear to be enslaved as much almost as negroes,
and are bought and sold like them. In Rio a large number are.
thus made merchandise of. Of this fact I was not aware till
this evening.




324                  SKETCHES OF
CHAPTER XXIX.
Winter and Western Islanders.-Brazilian Names: their Derivation and Import.
-Primitive Patronymics.-Combinations.-Names in connection with Professions.-Names of Ships.-Pigs and Pig-stealing.-Invitation to Tea.
_icy 28. Heavy rains and streets impassable except to
quadrupeds and colored bipeds, who happily use no nether garments. There they go! a troop of mules bound up the mountains.  See! their ears are not now erect, for in that position
the falling floods would fill them. Turned back and pendent,
all is dry within as the contents of the two hairy sacks each
beast is laden with. Yon dark nymph crying oranges and bananas, with a bunch of rosemary in one hand, is coming over to
this side.  Her wide and shallow basket is a colander, and under it she a fountain goddess in the midst of falling jets-an
Ethiopian Venus in a shower-bath. Though lithe and well
tbormed, she is not a Minas —her garments had not then been so
brief nor few. The left half of her bust is wholly nude, and
the jagged skirts of her only vestment are short as a figurante's.
Look! or rather don't, for she raises ithem as she comes wading
through the torrent in the gutter. There, on the side-walk,
now she splashing treads-an itinerant priestess of Pomona!
Her spirits are not drowned at any rate, for that shriek of mirth
is hers. She is bantering the muleteer as he stolidly paces in
the rear of his charge.
Here come again those eternal sand-carts, and now doubly
laden, one half with water.  How the poor overwrought and
lacerated animals strain to keep, and hardly keep, the wheels in
motion. These Western Islanders, industrious as they are,
should have, or be made to have, compassion on their beasts.
Digging down hills by contract, they labor every day and half
of every night. Neither rains, nor heat, nor even darkness
stops them; no, nor saints nor Sabbath-days, so anxious are
they to make up the number of milreis their moderate wishes
centre on. Observe, they go without shoes, stockings, coat, or
vest, and this is winter too. Winter! how like glorious sum



LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   325
mer in our latitudes!  Forests and fields in bloom, silver
streams meandering among natural bowers, and birds and butterflies as busy as at this season in the North.
But we must find something else to do than gazing through
the window. Here is the Or9amento, or Brazilian Budget for
1847-8, just issued from the government press, exhibiting the
receipts and expenditures of the empire, salaries of the emperor, officers of state, and a list of about 2000 pensioners. On
turning over the leaves, names occur remarkable for their literal
import, others for their deep religious hue, and some for their
singular combinations. As there is no going out to-day, suppose we devote an hour to this collection, for names every where
supply material for curious speculations.
As in olden times, alphabetical lists are those of individual,
not of family appellations. Thus letters in the post-office are
advertised as with us, but, like this pension-list, the names begin with Agathas and Annas, proceed to Claras, Floras, Henriques, Manoels, and so on to Pedros, Theresas, Veronicas, and
Zepharinas.
Names derived from personal qualities, occupations, implements, animals, trees, plants, etc., are common to most people.
None retain finer traces of them, and none have more disfigured
them by legendary trash than the Portuguese. As it is the belief that beatified saints are gratified by naming children after
them, Pedros and Joses prevail among boys, while Annas and
Marys carry the day with the girls.  Then, as the mother of
Christ is worshiped in many characters, nearly all Marias have
agnomens expressive of popular personations of the Madonna.
Another custom is to fasten a cluster of names on a child in
the hope that it will attain the virtues of each celestial sponsor.
With this view masculine prenomens and agnomens are conferred on females, and feminine names not withheld from males.
Of prirnitivepatronymics, chiefly drawn from nature, the following are but a tithe of examples that might be given. The
prenomens, mostly religious, are for the sake of brevity dropped,
save one: Angelica Dead Branch, Amelia Quiet, Imogine Pilchard, Anne of the Willow-tree Remedy, Rose Lamprey, Frances the Stammerer, Clara of the Fire-pans, Flora Scourge of
the House, Claudine Little Fish, Emilia of the Saucer, Maria




326                SKETCHES OF
of the Fountains, Charlotte House-leek, Louisa Emancipated of
France, Louisa of the Pen, Good Shepherdess of the Coast of
Navarre, Joaquim the Sucking-pig of Almeida, Mary of the
Olive-tree Beautiful, Maria Crow of Almeida, Isabella of the
Great Beard, Isabella Milfoil, Barbara of the Door-bolt, John
of the Axe, Florence of the Caldron, Anthony Hawk of Merchantmen, Innocencia the Torch of Arruda, Joaquina of the
White Castle.
Combinations of Primitive Surnames.-Lewis Egg Chicken
Thick, Catharine of the Wolf and Bramble, Mary of Bouquets
and Saucer, John of Apple-tree Wedge, Jane of Gentility and
Snows, Mary of the Partridge and Brook, Chicken of Mori and
Falcon, Barbara of the Latch and Spider, Frances Cockles and
Snow, Jose Leather-strap and Quarry, Manoel Sucking-pig and
Banner, Anne Woe to Alengar. A lady at my elbow is Maria
Saucer Rabbit, and a doctor writes himself Fortegato-Strong
Cat.
lay and Religious combined.-Pine-tree of Jesus, Conception and Rabbit, Assumption and Thorn-bush, Purification and
Male Partridge, Purity and Sparrow-hawk, Jesus Flowering
Pink, Blacksmith of the Trinity, Garden Nun of Macedon, Justus of the Saints of Portugal, Cross-bowman of the Saints.
IhColly Religious. —Mary of Holy Love, Rose of Conception, Rose of the Holy Ghost, Catharine of the White Saints,
John of the Holy Rock, Joaquina of the Brave Jesus, Anne of
Placidity of the Heart of Jesus, Mary of Light, of the Maternity,
etc., etc. The washerwoman of our family is Maria Rose of
Jesus and of the Holy Ghost.
We must not forget that this mania for Scripture names has
not always been confined to one sect. A Protestant type of
the disease was rather prevalent in England during the Commonwealth; and of lay patronymics, there are doubtless those
current among ourselves curious as any given here. It is only
when they present themselves in a foreign dress that they excite surprise; strip them, and most will turn out old acquaintances, if not near relatives.
Names in connection with Professions —examples from the
Rio Directory.-Jose Maria of the See is a soap-boiler; Jose
Jesus makes spurs and amulets; Sabina of the Wood of Naza



LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   327
reth is a silversmith; St. Francis Anthony Cxsar sells paliterros; John of Jesus and the Olive keeps a liquor-shop; John
Baptist is a gilder; Francis Stream of Holy Pork [or sausage]
a pyrotechnist; Michael of the Nativity a currier; Manuel Jesus a hatter; Joseph Mary of the Trinity a carpenter; Widow
Lizard sells tobacco; Matthew of Light sells washing-blocks;
Joseph of the Pine-tree Saints is a coppersmith; Louis Sylvan
Milk sells city wines; Joaquim of the Saints deals in jerked
beef; Baron of Good Venture is a shipping-merchant; Jose
Mother of Gods sells cigars; Benjamin Country Sheep is a second lieutenant; Simon of Nazareth is a gunsmith; Antonio of'
the Sacred Paces keeps a livery-stable; Michael Archangel of
Miranda is a paper-hanger; Vicente Dresser of Forest-trees is
a barber; Jose Bookworm of the Saints makes combs; Augustus Csesar Orange is a custom-house clerk, and Antonio Jose of
the Holy Plow-tail Handle a secretary.
In the principal theatre we find Antonio Thomas the Palmer,
manager; John Araujo of the Holy Spirit, box-keeper; Maria
Jose Nunes, proempter; Antonio of the Olive, bill-poster; Joseph
of the Nativity, and Joaquim Observer of Santa Rita, scene-shifters; Joana Rose of Jesus,fitgurante, etc., etc. MIost of the performers, and among them B. J. Ferdinand Caqueirada —literally, a blow from a broken pot-have rooms in Ruas do Espirito
Santo, Concei9ao, and Sacramento.
If there were morals in words and virtue in names, occupants
of the Southern Continent would be superlatively happy; but
neither earthly nor heavenly appellations make men wise or
good. The police.reports expose daily the association of sacred
names with the vilest passions.
Esmeria Maria da Conceigao and Anna de Jesus were imprisoned yesterday for street brawling, and Saturnina Maria da
ConceiFdo for being drunk.  The other day, Monica Maria da
Paixao, Luisa Teresa Rosa, Zepharino do Espirito Santo, Jose
Maria dos Anjos, and Antonio Luiz dos Santos, were arrested
for physical offenses; and again: Generous Louiza of the Conception, Maria of do., and Jose of the Saints, were committed for
fighting, Jos6 Dionysius of the Mercies for wounding, and the
mulattoes Lawrence Jose Alves and Jacintho Joseph of the Holy
Ghost for necromancy.




328                 SKETCHES OF
NYames of Shiips.-By running over the marine columns of
newspapers, the piety of ship-builders and owners is apparent
in the names of their vessels. Political and moral appellations
occur, but the bulk are named from the calendar and monkish
records. A few specimens must suffice:
Triumph of Brazil, Temptation, Good Jesus of Alem [common], Concei9ao [very common], Holy Cross, Great Courage,
New St. Francis, Holy Martyrs, Our Lady of the Birth, Segunda Conceivao de Maria, The Pleasure of God, Protector of Angels, The Holy Ghost, Allelulia, Shining St. Anthony, Protectress of Angels, Asylum of Virtue, Conception of the Queen of
Angels.
Change of NFames.-Nuns and monks cast their old ones
away, and every cardinal, when elected to the papacy, assumes
a fresh one. This custom begun with Sergius, and with some
reason, for Os Porci —pig's face —was any thing but a suitable
appellation for the holy father.
Many Portuguese patronymics indicate not simply a remote,
but an Oriental origin, especially some of those derived from
animals, fowls, fruits, domestic implements, hunting, the bow,
etc. Of later names, Sylvan Silversmith may be one, but it can
hardly be posterior to the epoch of the Iliad. Good Venture and
Good Success are of high antiquity. The latter was the name
of Aristotle, which in Greek signifies the same thing. Some,
that appear of monkish origin, are of anterior dates. Silva is
probably one. It signifies a shirt or cloth of wire worn by penitents; but self-torture goes back into the earliest times. Baal's
priests encouraged it. So with Romeiro, a palmer. It probably dates from times long preceding the Crusades, as pilgrimages to saints and holy places were made by the ancient heathen.
The original Senhor Sucking Pig may have received his
name from resembling in infancy one of those younglings in
vigorously draining his mother's breasts, or from an eagerness
to devour them in after life. The families of Sausages are clearly derived from one with carnivorous appetites. The great ancestor of Joaquim and Joaquina Holy Pork was possibly convicted of feeding his family at the expense of a monastery.
Hogs were common presents to ancient friars, and were then




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   329
considered sacred, but that stealing them was not a rare sin
there is abundant proof. Some convents had not less than two
thousand, the feeding of which cost them nothing, "as they
were privileged to range through the streets, markets, and even
private houses, scarcely any person daring to check them, because they were considered the -Lord's swine." To save their
pigs, woes were denounced by monks on those that stole them,
and examples are given of men dying raving mad after dining
on stolen pork. Let us hope that the first Senhor Holy Pork
sanctified his theft according to the proverb, " Steal a pig and
give the feet in alms"-an instructive saying, for which we are
indebted to his or some other pig-purloiner's piety.
With the reader's leave we will close the subject of names,
and the rather as Senhor Pompilio, a young gentleman from
Congo, has for some moments been bowing before us, and smiling as his countrymen only can smile. A Para fly-flap in his
left hand, he points the forefinger of the other over his shoulder,
anon brings it point blank at our mouth, and then whisks it
back into his own. Next he makes a species of courtesy, waves
the scarlet feathers toward an inner door, and seeing us at
length drop the pen, his eyes swim in joy at the success of his
invitation for us to join the ladies at tea.
CHAPTER XXX.
St. Anthony of Padua: his Monastery and Miracles.-His Rank and Salary as a
Soldier.-Shameful Treatment of his Images.-Feast of the Holy Ghost.-Auctions and Fire-works, etc.
WE spent the best part of two days in an irregular pile of
three-story buildings, located on one side of a hill, dedicated to
and owned by the most popular of Brazilian minor divinities.
The ascent, wide and paved, winds up at the rear of the Carioco Fountain.  Here and there a slave was asleep, reclining
against the dead wall on either hand, while almost every where
were revolting nuisances committed by them.
There are several Antonios in the calendar, and one is often
mistaken for the other.  He who had such amusing personal
conflicts with Satan was of Egypt, and not a few of his acts




330                 SKETCHES OF
and powers have been ascribed to his namesakes. It was he
who, centuries after his death, began to cure people of a disease
not heard of while he lived-one that, fronm his success in treating, still bears his name. He only should be pictured with fire
and a pig-not, as the wicked might surmise, to indicate a favorite monastic dish. The early appearance of erysipelas in
Europe, association of the saint and pigs with it, etc., will be
found accounted for in the subjoined extract from  Gabriel
d'Emilliane's History of the Monastical Orders, 1693:
"In the year 1089, a contagious sickness, called the Sacred
Fire, a kind of very dangerous leprosie, having spread itself into
several parts of Europe, those of the Province of Vienna, in
France, had, at last, recourse to the Relies of St. Antony the
Egyptian. They say that whoever did call upon him was delivered from the Sacred Fire; and contrariwise, those who blasphemed or took the name of St. Antony in vain, were immediately, by the saint's unmerciful vengeance, delivered up to it.
This gave occasion to Gaston Frank, in 6ompany with some
other persons, to institute, in the year 1095, the Religion [Order] of St. Antony, whose principal care it was to serve those
who were tormented with the Sacred Fire. They represent St.
Antony with a fire kindled at his side to signifie that he delivers people from the Sacred Fire. They paint a hog near him
as a sign that he cures beasts of all diseases; and to honor him
in several places, a hog is kept at common charges, and called
St. Antony's Hog, for which they [the people] have great veneration. Many will have St. Antony's picture on the walls of
their houses, hoping by that to be preserved from the Plague.
And the Italians, who did not know the true signification of
the fire painted at his side, thought that he preserved houses
also from being burnt, and they call upon him on such occasions.  As for the Fryars, they know so well how to make use
of the power of their St. Antony, that, when they go a begging,
if one does refuse what they ask for, they threaten immediately
to make the Sacred Fire to fall upon him; therefore the poor
country people, to avoid the menaces and witchcrafts of these
monks, present them every year with a good fat hog apiece.
Some Cardinals and Prelates endeavored to persuade Pope Paul
III. to abolish these wretched Begging Fryars, but they could




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   331
not compass their good design; and these Monks do subsist yet
to this day in several places, though the sickness of St. Antony's
Fire be now very rare."
This old establishment contains good specimens of carving;
and the chapel, without a tithe of the gilt that glistens in others, is a gallery of paintings, which, if not miracles of art, are
exemplifications of the miraculous. They may not equal the
best productions of Raphael, or of Annibal Carracci of Bologna,
but they are attested copies of the works of an individual deemed vastly more gifted than either, viz., Anthony of Padua.
The plan of the chapel is two parallelograms of unequal width
(the smaller one the chancel) joined end to end. The entrance
is at the wide part, only half of which is appropriated to the audience.  We are standing at the door, and see! yonder at the
opposite extremity is Anthony over the high altar facing us.
ST. ANTHONY OF PADUA.
Two minor shrines are near the junction of the chancel with the
chapel. One is occupied by a female, and opposite to her the
original image of Black Benedict stands. Large as life, good




332                 SKETCHES OF
looking, his crisp hair shorn a la tonsure, he bends over the
prone baby in his arms, and is hushing it to sleep.
For half an hour we were alone. No person entered except
a slave belonging to the monastery, and he merely peeped in.
I endeavored to take a full-length portrait of the patron of the
place-a stout-built gentleman, rising five feet, and draped in a
black gown, braced round his waist by a tasseled cord. No
other article of his proper dress is visible, but he is loaded with
accessories. Curving outward his left arm, he grasps with the
hand a closed book, the cover of which constitutes a pedestal
for his baby, without which he is never seen. It is a pretty
thing, resting with one foot on the volume, the other in the air.
Its stature is fifteen inches. It wears pantalettes, a white silk
frock with sash, and gold-laced tucks; tiny frills go round its
neck, a crown is on its head, a ball in one hand, and in the
other an artificial nosegay.  Between Anthony's right arm and
breast a cross-headed staff shoots upward, and with it a bouquet. Thus far there is nothing very remarkable. But in his
right hand is, what I first took for a walking-cane, a marshal's
baton, over his shoulders a broad red military sash, on his
breast the star or cross of some militant order, and, as if to
mark still more emphatically the hero, his brows are encircled
with a wreath, in the manner of a Roman conqueror.
"What does that mean?" I exclaimed. " Mean?" replied
11; " why, that he is a Knight Commander of the Military
Order of Portugal and Brazil, belongs to the regular army,
is commissioned as lieutenant colonel, and receives his pay
monthly the same as every other officer." " Come," said I,
" no poetry. Anthony a soldier and commander of a living regiment! It won't-" At this moment a monk came in suddenly through a side door close to where we stood. Making a
reverence to the saint by bringing one knee nearly to the floor,
he turned inquiringly to us. Under thirty, fat, rather short,
but of a handsome mien-a fair specimen of a Brazilian-my
companion spoke, and told him I was a stranger desirous of
going over the saint's establishment.  With a dubious glance
at the memorandum-book and pencil in my hand, and then at
myself, he asked, "Is he pious?" The answer was satisfactory; and, sure enough, what H    had said of the martial




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                  333
offices, dignities, and salary of the saint was all true. The monk
spoke of him in the character of a general, and I asked, " Why
give him that title if he is but a colonel?" The answer was
ready: according to Brazilian etiquette, every Knight of the
Grand Cross is entitled to the insignia and honors of the highest
rank; hence, in common with his brother knights, Lieutenantcolonel Anthony, though wearing neither stockings nor shoes,
is complimented with the badges and dignities of a general.
We now turned to the paintings. While gazing on one rather intently, I risked my reputation with the monk by inadvertently turning my back on the general, a piece of forgetfulness
deemed incompatible with true devotion. I ought to have been
on my guard, inasmuch as at another church I had been reproved for a similar offense. The subjects are incidents from
the life and deeds of Anthony. I shall notice a few only.
1. At the mouth of a well, over which a chain and pulley are
suspended, stands an enraptured monk. He has just raised the
bucket, and with it a small image of the saint.  The story is
this: The brother of a monastery, whose duty it was to draw
water, lost the bucket from the chain. Distressed, and not
knowing what to do, for the well was very deep, the saint at
length inspired him. Drawing from his bosom an image of
the general, he sent it down. On reaching the water, it caught
hold of the floating bucket, properly hooked it to the chain, and
rose with it, to the delight of the lay brother and the edification
of the brotherhood.
2. The saint, acting the part of a surgeon, is fixing the foot
of a living person to the limb from which it had been severed.
A young man, said our cicerone, once kicked his mother. He
went out and met a stranger, who startled him by saying, " He
that kicks his mother should lose his foot."' Conviction seized
the culprit; he returned home and chopped off the offending
member. His injured mother came in, began to cry, and before
he bled to death, picked up the foot and took her son with her
in search of the stranger. He was close by, and recognized as
St. Anthony. Seeing the youth repentant, he immediately healed him. The foot, in drawing nigh to its proper place, sprung
out of the saint's hands like the keeper to a magnet, and the
line of separation was not visible




334                 SKETCHES OF
3. Meeting some Turks, they reviled him. One, more violently wicked than the rest, was strangely punished. Both his
eyes flew out of their sockets into Anthony's hands. The saint
is painted with one between each finger and thumb, and the
screaming sinner kneeling before him. This was evidence too
awful for Mohammedans to resist; they were converted, and
the saint returned the balls to their gaping voids, where all became right again.
4. "What of those horses kneeling before the saint, and
Turks standing near?" I asked. One day Anthony was raising the Host as Mohammedans were passing.  They derided
and refused to kneel. To convince them of their error, he told
them to bring their cattle near. They complied, and, to their
amazement, the brutes set them an example of devotion by
bowing down before the good man and the wafer. I observed
that this miracle had been explained by saying grain had been
put into a cavity which the hungry beasts could not reach without stooping.  " That," said he, " is a lie."
5. Two of the largest paintings are chefs d'oeuvre. Preaching in Pavia, he stopped suddenly, and, agreeably to ancient
practice, requested his congregation to repeat a short prayer.
He appeared to his audience to be leaning over the pulpit, but
in reality he had left the church. Our Lady had whispered to
him that his father had been arrested in Portugal for murder,
and was at that moment on his way to the gallows. By her
aid he arrived before the rope was passed round his parent's
neck, and, as the pictures show him, stopped the posse, consisting of the judge, sheriff, hangman, and crowd. The murdered
man was in his coffin close by, and on him the saint called.
The corpse obeyed the mandate, threw off the cover of the shell,
sat up in it, and proclaimed aloud the innocence of the accused.
Anthony saluted his father and returned to Pavia, arriving as
the congregation finished the prayer, and concluded his discourse
without his absence having been suspected.
6. I next pointed to a female at a counter behind which a
man was busy weighing money. That young woman, we were
told, was friendless and destitute. Nothing but dishonorable
means of living were before her. Anthony fell in with her, and
gave her a scrap'of thin paper, with directions to take it to a




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                  335
certain merchant, and ask him, in the saint's name, to give her
its weight in gold. The son of Mercury laughed as he dropped
the feather-like slip into his scales, but when one-two-three
-four piles of gold did not make it rise, he became dumb with
reverence and fear. A few more pieces brought the scales to a
level, and the now happy girl had the means of continuing in a
virtuous course of life.
7. The way in which he helped a married lady is the subject
of another. This woman was abandoned by her husband. Anthony met him, and told him to go home to his virtuous wife,
who was daily praying for him.  He refused. "Then," quoth
the saint, "send her a letter and some money."  To this he
agreed. As the holy man would not touch the money of so bad
a husband, he told him to drop it, with the letter, into his sleeve.
As usual, the distressed lady was next morning praying to her
favorite patron. A letter addressed to her dropped on the altar.
and while reading it, money rained down from the sleeve of the
image, as the painting represents.
One more: The saint met a man in low spirits, and asked
what ailed him. He had been in business, had acquired wealth,
but was now ruined by the death of a dishonest partner, whose
heirs claimed the property, and he had no evidence to show his
right to it.  " Never mind," quoth Anthony, "come with me."
They entered a wood, and near a cavern the saint called on the
devil to bring out the roguish partner. In the midst of fire and
smoke, Satan appears with his victim. The saint commanded
the latter to sign an order on his relatives to give up their illgotten riches. This he did, and the cheated merchant got his
own again. The parties are pictured at the mouth of hell, and
Satan holds the sinner by the neck while he signs the document.
Our reverend commentator was in his element. He dwelt
with pleasing unction on a dozen or two more. Several had an
irresistible influence over the muscles of our mouths; and the
negro, who had come in again, exposed every molar and incisor
in his head, nor could the father himself always keep his own
eye-teeth out of sight. With charming naivete he said to
H —, "These stories can do no harm. If all are not true.
most of them are."
We had now crept down to the junction of the chancel with




:336                 SKETCHES OF
the main body of the temple, where two spirited angels, tall as
I am, stood, as if to guard the passage into the holiest place.
They are highly colored and gilded.  Each holds a cornucopia,
the mouth of which has been scooped out to receive a large cylindrical lamp, in which a lighted wick was floating. The angel
near me wore a conical black cap without a rim, that contrasted
strangely with the uncovered golden locks of the other. The
mystagogue was filling my companion to repletion with picture
stories, and I drew near and touched the cone. It was loose;
I raised it, and, without a moment's delay, replaced it. It was
neither more nor less than an extinguisher for the lamps, and,
when not in use, dropped on the seraph's head as a convenient
and the nearest pin to hang it on. Of necessity, the head was
copiously anointed with soot and grease. This piece of desecration, at such a place, was remarkable, because it is deemed
wrong to put figures of celestials to any low use. Conversing
one evening about the various designs for paliteiros, a suggestion to make them after the figures of saints or angels, the picks
to form the rays or halos, was declared inadmissible, because it
would be wicked to stick tooth-picks in holy beings' heads.
When we reached the negro's shrine, the father was interrogated about his origin. Some persons, he said, suppose the
saint was a Spanish slave in a convent, and, becoming eminently pious, was elected abbot, but where and when he could
not say.
The vestry is a splendid room, paved with red and white mosaics.  The ceiling is paneled, and covered with rich paintings
by an old slave.  The walls, for four or five feet up, are cased
with painted blue and white tiles, illustrating the life of the
saint, and the rest with paintings on the same fruitful subject.
The carvings of bureaus, and round the doors, in high relief, are
very superior. The lavatory occupies an adjoining room. In
the centre is a marble basin, shell-shaped, eight feet over, and
from it rises a column, at whose angles dolphins deliver the water, the whole surmounted by a draped female statue of "Puritas" some twelve feet from the floor.
We went up stairs into a wide passage opening into the
monks' cells. Out of one there came the strangest substitute
for a chamber-maid I ever saw-an old and miserable-looking




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                    337
negro, with nothing whatever on his person but a tattered slip
of bagging round his middle. He and another were busy with
the morning chores. Resting a while in one of the rooms, we
beheld the Carioco Aqueduct winding like a low, whitewashed
wall along the hill side; in one place half sunk in the ground,
at another wholly out, while close to the monastery it passes
under the road we came up, and enters the Carioco Fountain
at the foot of the ascent.
Our cicerone led us up stairs to a large room overlooking a
great part of the city and the Bay —the library. When the
door was unlocked and thrown open, what a blast of damp and
mildew came out! Pausing till fresh air could stream in, we
spent an hour or two among the books. Here are between five
and six thousand volumes-heavy tomes on Canon Law, Monastic Orders, Miracles of Saints, History of Byzantium, Works
of the Fathers, etc.  The only English book was a Life of Milton. With the exception of a work on magic, I did not see a
volume of special interest, nor did I open one whose leaves were
not glued together by damp, and of which large portions had not
been devoured by ants. In a few years the whole will have perished.
iT/e Saint as a Soldier.-When the royal family arrived
from Portugal in 1808, Anthony was onLy captain of infantry,
but before returning to Europe, John VI. raised him to a lieutenant colonelcy on the staff, to the great displeasure of older
officers. Besides his salary of 960 milreis as lieutenant colonel,
he appears in other grades in the army list, and receives pay
and rations accordingly. I extract the following from the national budget for the present year:
Milreis.
San Antonio de Goyas..................... Granted November 18, 1750, 192
de Minas, by royal mandate......  "  February 26, 1799, 480
do Mouraria...................  "   September 5, 1800, 120
da Parahiba............   "  December 13, 1809, 75
Besides these army pensions, I am told that he figures in other
characters as a creditor on the public ledgers. As the whole
affair was strange to me, I inquired how the money was paid,
to whom, and how disposed of. The answer was, that here, in
Rio, the abbot of his monastery receives it, and expends it on
the saint's person, on his clothes, washing, and ornaments,
Y




338                    SKETCHES OF
wages for his servants, and other expenses of his establishment.
I was furnished with a copy of the receipt for his last month's
salary:
Pay this, BASTOS.                LIEUTENANT COLONEL, No. 363.
Received from the illustrious Lieutenant-colonel Manoel Jos6 Alvas da Fonseca,
treasurer and paymaster-general of the troops of this capital, the sum of eighty
milreis, being the amount of pay due for the month of May last to the glorious St.
Anthony, as lieutenant colonel in the army.
To manifest the same, I sign this receipt.
Noted Folio 6, LIRA.       Father MIGUEL DE SANTA RITA, Superior.
Rio de Janeiro, June 15, 1846.
Paid,.ALVES.  JoAO CAETANO D'ALMEIDA FRANqA, Ex Syndic Procurator.
In times of peace his active services are not required, but in
war he is expected to accompany the troops, and perhaps even
now the enunciation of his presence might make some invading
enemies pause, as in ancient times armies quailed when the
gods of their opponents were brought into the field.
Anthony as a Saint.-To impress me with his manifold virtues, a lady loaned me a small volume, "Compendio de Oracoes."  In the "Week of Love to St. Anthony," the form  of
address on Mondays is, "Oh, my St. Anthony! Wonder of
wonders! Credit to Omnipotence! Model of humility! Mystic
doctor!"   On other days: "Oh, St. Anthony! Treasurer of
Italy! Precious Stone of Poverty! Human Angel! Prince of
Heaven! Sun of the World! Atlantes of Virtue! Star of Spain
and Portugal! Wonder of Nature! Brilliant Sun of Padua!
Doctor of Truth! Trumpet of Heaven! Hammerer of Heretics!
Abyss of Sanctity! Rule of Perfection! Column of the Catholic Church! Honor of the Seraphic Religion, and most Beloved
of Glory! I offer thee thirty-six Ave Marias in honor of the
thirty-six years during which thou practiced so many miracles!"
Again: "Do we look for miracles?   St. Anthony makes
death, sin, sorrow, error, and devils flee away. He is a prompt
medicine for every disease. He takes us out of prison, delivers
us from pains, and all lost things hefinds.  Perils he banishes,
and to every one gives succor. Padua confesses all this. Pray
for us, good Anthony!"  Another passage-if the reader is not
out of breath-explains why he is represented with a child.
"Oh, glorious St. Anthony, who merited to receive from  the
hands of the Mother of God her only baby into thine arms!"




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                  339
This was the highest of honors. No other saint received such
a mark of favor. There was much trouble to get the infant
from him; hence it is the common practice of his worshipers
here, when they get out of patience with him for delaying to
comply with their wishes, to threaten to take the baby from him.
Nothing, a devout lady says, is more effectual than such a
threat. Intimating that Nossa Senhora, at the time Anthony
lived, had no baby to put into his arms, I was told she, by miracle, made one for the purpose!
As the restorer of lost things, Anthony is constantly appealed
to in cases of runaway slaves, stray horses, mules, and stolen
furniture. Senhora P- carries his picture in her bosom,
and, like thousands, keeps an image of him in her house. Not
a day passes without her addressing him. To convince me
that he was " a very miraculous saint," she mentioned that he
had sent one of her mother's slaves back after a long absence,
and how a valuable one of her own had run off, and been forced
to return. This last confessed that the tortured image of the
saint used to appear and tell him he must return.
When other saints do not comply with requests preferred to
them, resignation is a duty; while, in such cases, Anthony is
scourged, bruised, and tormented in every imaginable manner;
and, what is strange, this is said to be agreeable to him! The
measures adopted by Senhora P- were such as her mother
had recourse to.  She took Anthony, a figure about the length
of one's hand, of pottery, but more commonly of plaster of Paris
-placed a lighted candle before him, asked him to send the fugitive home, and to mind and give him no rest till he returned. A week elapsed, and he came not; another and another
passed away, and still no tidings of him. She then took the
saint, laid him, with his face downward, on the floor behind the
door, and put a heavy stone upon him, that there might be no
intermission of his pain. I asked, " Why treat him so severely?"  Then came the stereotyped story: " St. Anthony wished
to be a martyr, but as Our Lady did not permit him to have
that honor, he loves to be afflicted in his representatives, and
very often will not listen to his friends until they are tormented." As soon as the fugitive was recovered, the load was removed from the back of the little sufferer; he was washed, put




340                 SKETCHES OF
on a covered table, two candles lit before him, and the best
thanks of the lady presented with a courtesy.
It is common with some to put the uncomplying saint into
ovens, and throw him into ash-pits, and never to take him out
except to thank him or to chastise him; but the most general
punishment is consignment to a dark and wet prison. Every
house in Rio has a shallow well or cistern in the yard of brackish water rising within a few feet of the surface. In these the
saint is immured. So common is it " to put St. Anthony into
the well," that the expression is proverbial for having lost something.  H-  says he had a slave who ran off, and was caught
and returned in a few weeks. On communicating the news of
the recovery of the fugitive to his family, his wife led him to
the small well in the yard, and, opening the cover, showed him
Anthony suspended by a cord just over the water. She had
placed him there soon after the slave was missing. Of course
he was drawn up, like Jeremiah out of the pit, and complimented with thanks and a couple of candles, and the slave reminded
how useless were attempts to escape the vigilance of this heavenly negro-catcher. There is no doubt whatever that many
3laves are recovered by means of the saint. The tortured image, like one of their native idols, haunts their imaginations, and
constant dread of evil befalling them compels them to return.
Vast numbers of six and seven inch Anthonys are destroyed
by angry devotees. I heard of disappointed lottery speculators
hewing them, like Agag, in pieces; others throwing them into
the fire during the prevalence of rage; so that if the saint did
not seal the truth with his blood as he desired, scarcely one of
his representatives escapes being martyred.
A few days ago an advertisement of a lost ass appeared in a
daily paper. The animal had been taken from a garden belonging to the monastery of Saint Anthony, and a reward was offered for its recovery; so that while he recovers other people's lost
cattle, he can not find his own-at all events, his friars have
more faith in newspapers than in him.
The monks are unpopular. Of several recent lawsuits they
have not succeeded in one. A house is being erected by a private individual on ground claimed by them. They have protested against the intrusion, but that is all. Some time ago, a




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   341
similar outrage induced the abbot to appeal to the government.
Carneiro Leon, an enlightened statesman, was Secretary of State.
After hearing the complainant, he replied, " Well, we don't want
monks, and the government itself wants the convent grounds."
The frighted father fled-perhaps to appeal to Anthony? " No,
no," said a native friend, " friars know better; they tell simpletons to do that."
Besides real estate, their means are swelled by bequests, proceeds of "blessed" prints, scapularies, medals, money for masses,
and for consecrated habits for those who desire to be buried in
them-a superstition quite common; men, women, children, and
youths being frequently entombed in the garbs of monks and
nuns, the wealthy paying high prices for them.
May 31. All concede that the brotherhood of Santa Anna
bears off the palm in the current festival. This church stands
on one side of the Campo, and is here represented; the flag-...~~  ___:_. =. =   =  __.   __1-.
FEAS O_ TH  OYGOTA AT ANA'_HRC




342                 SKETCHES OF
staff and flag of the Holy Ghost in front, a portion of the pyrotechnic poles with figures mounted on them, the auctioneer
and empire fenced in, etc. Before noticing them, let us glance
at the establishments of lay showmen, who are always welcomed here by their ecclesiastical brethren, both parties being
mutual aids to each other. Here are, in the immediate vicinity of the church,
1. "The beautifud Dog of the North-the Phoenix of Europe. Madame Neif has the honor of requesting ladies and gentlemen to attend early to enjoy the brilliant spectacle of' The
beautiful Dog of the North,' as she can remain only a short
time.  The exhibition is in one of the tents in the Campo
of Santa Anna, every evening during the Feast of the Holy
Ghost."
2. "Theatro _Jiagico." (Phantasmagoria and natural magic.)
3. "Theatro de Bom Gusto." (Posture-making, tumbling,
lifting weights.)
4. "Tourinhos Iliechanicos."  (Punch and Judy, and other
puppets.)
5. "Trabalhos (feats) do Senhor Otto Xotti."
The precocious poodle of the advertisement is a canine roue';
"he plays at cards, spells out ladies' names, and does other
wonderful things."
There were three more booths, in one of which sword-swallowing and drawing ribbons from the mouth were the chief
feats, except that the performers rinsed their parched throats
with fire. In another were ground and lofty tumbling, with
rope-dancing.
The feast opened on Sunday, the last day of May. It was
dark before I reached the place.  The illuminated tower and
steeple of the church sparkled in the distance as with strings and
wreaths of diamonds. Bengola and other lights were streaming upward, and inverted cones of rockets-a dozen from one
stick-were every few moments sent aloft, while bombs exploded with reports loud as the heaviest ordnance; the church
bells pealed away, the drums, cymbals, and trumpets of the
showmen helped them. Opposite the show-booths were others
for the sale of wines, cigars, pies, and other refreshments. One
poetical proprietor informed visitors, in the following verse, that




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   343
his place contained every thing that could be wished for by
those who love to taste and suck good things:
" Quem bons potiscos
Quizar chucar,
Pessa que tudo
Selhe ha de dar."
Avenues were formed by colored women seated on the grass,
each with a basket of fruit, cakes, or doces, lit up with a paper
lantern.  Here were "Holy Ghost rusks," gingerbread, and
scores of other articles thus designated, being sllped with a
dove in honor of the festival.  The noise, bustle, and excitement of the scene made a perfect Bartholomew Fair.  The
ground was alive with people, who kept moving like a colony
of ants in commotion.
But let us turn to the church, and try to get through the
crowds in front of the stage, which is very artistically got up.
At each end an angel holds a lamp, while chandeliers, vases,
blue and crimson tapestry, enlighten and decorate the whole.
" The Emperor of the Holy Ghost," seated on a throne, presides, and really acts the part to admiration. The little fellow
is ten years old; he wears a crown; a wide frill adorns his
neck and rests on an ermine tippet; his coat, vest, small-clothes
with strings at the knees, white stockings, and buckled shoes
are those of adults two centuries ago. The managers and a
number of ladies are sitting near him: the band is playing a
lively air, and see! the little monarch points with his gilt sceptre to a side-stand-a signal for one of his secretaries to hand
him a paper of sugar-plums.  He wears " the sash of the Order
of Christ." There is probably some alliance between these juvenile monarchs and the " boy bishops" of the Middle Ages.
Soon as the music ceased, out sprung the auctioneer, dressed
in motley! —a young man of twenty-five or six-a Brazilian
Grimaldi.  In disposing of a large rusk, his antics elicited
shrieks of approbation. After disposing of several more, and
handing to each purchaser, with the change, a sacred print, he
disappeared, and in a twinkling reappeared in a striped closefitting dress like Harlequin's, with bells sewed on the front and
side seams. Making a profound reverence to the emperor, he
introduced, in a comic dance, a large white rooster to the audi



344                 SKETCHES OF
ence. Holding it in a natural position by its legs, he
made it scream  by pulling
down the tail feathers, and
soon knocked it down to a
laughing buyer, with a woodcut of a dove in a triangle
___fd-;thrown in. A quick broker,
he put the first bid on him-...... Ad  self, and struck off the lots at
__        _ the first or second advance.
He kept the company in the
best of tempers, and there
was no putting a joke upon
-  him.  Some one attempted
]/{I I /.this, when he took hold of
what he called his "silver quizzing-glass," which hung by a
ribbon low as his knees, and applying it to his eye, thrust his
whole face through it. It was an open ring cut out of a sheet
of tin. His manner of using it was irresistible.
Retiring, he came out next in the worn-out dress of a general, with enormous epaulets, and performed a comic dance, the
music accompanying him. With every change of the step he
changed the figure of his magic hat: one moment a regular
chaaeau de bras, the next a bishop's mitre, now a Phrygian
bonnet, now a Quaker's castor, anon an inverted, and last of all
a perfect cone with asses' ears, in which form he fell to business,
and disposed of fowls, pigeons, pies, custards, and confectionery.
After disposing of a dozen pigeons, the musicians played a popular overture, and, thinking I had seen enough, I turned to leave,
when a sudden shout announced his reappearance. He was in
a white and scarlet dress, mounted on high stilts, and danced a
polka on them to perfection. With a hen in one hand and his
eye-glass in the other, he placed his arms akimbo, and without
hesitation came down eight or ten steps into the " empire," and
traversed it for bids, stalking among the crowd like a heron or
flamingo among penguins. For fun and drollery no actor among
the showmen could surpass him. He had one drawback-his
voice was hoarse and cracked.




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   345
Before I left he appeared in a
night-gown and night-cap, which
K  5~/A~:   last he changed into various standard coverings for the head, and
generally by hitting some one with
it.  The worst thing about him
was his treatment of the fowls
and pigeons, which he whirled and
jerked about without the least regard to their sufferings. The lat2 1  I  Wter bore their pains in silence,
while the screechings of the foriler added to the general merriment.'He is a professional buffoon.
Fire-works. -In pyrotechnics
Dt  -A....Brazilian artists are, I suppose,
equal to those of any country.
D- V\Thile they excel in staple 1"foDl  "-'gos," they have a variety which,
though of ancient date, I have
~l  -- b   seen nowhere else.  Admitting
of endless applications, and opening a new field for our artists, a
few specimens may as well be
given. But first let us read the
official announcement from the.Diario:
"Espirito Santo de Santa Anna.-This evening, June 2,
will be given, if the weather permits, a grand display of artificial
fire-works, of every variety and color, all made by the famous
artist, Bernardino Jose da Cunha. The attention of the respectable public is solicited. All are invited to enjoy the spectacle, and at the same time view the empire, which is fitted up
in a style surpassing that of previous years."
Here were forty poles, varying from twenty-five to fifty feet
in height. Against some were fixed wheels, wheels within
wheels, suns, moons, stars, cones, polygons, vases, baskets, and




346                 SKETCHES OF
forms various as produced by a kaleidoscope. A row of splendid archways of fire arose, and over them, in words of flame,
"l;ouvoures ao ZDivino Esvirito Santo."  But these are more
or less akin to similar things with us. It was the human figures on the top of the poles, and the movements imparted to
them, that constituted the novelty.
Large as life, and dressed in character, they were so well got
up, that at a short distance all might be taken for living persons-a few feet off the illusion was strong.  They represented
barbers, razor-grinders, wood-sawyers, tumblers, rope-dancers,
ladies, and ladies' maids, etc. The ablest tailors and mantuamakers could not have dressed them better. Workmen wore
roundabouts and caps; gentlemen were in blue coats, striped
pants, and black neckeloths.  The barber's shirt-bosom was figured, the collars projected fashionably, and his cravat was tied a'
la mode; he wore a white jacket and pants, an apron, and highly-polished shoes, with a razor in his hand, and a comb behind
his ear. One lady is dressed in spotted pink, with frills, sash,
kid gloves, and every thing else to correspond.  She is ready
for a pirouette when the general dance begins.  Had I not previously examined one or two, I could hardly have believed that
their silk hats and bonnets, coats, vests, polished boots, linen,
leather caps, veils, and muslin de laines, were nothing more than
colored paper, supported on delicate wire frames: the faces were
masks.
A slight reference to the mechanism by which motion is
oh            imparted to them will be sufficient.
The base on which each figure stands
is a horizontal wheel, some ten feet
/). m     over. Its axis coincides with that of
the pole, upon which it is made slowly to turn by a band of small rockets
_I —   - going round its periphery. Suppose
on the upper side of one of these
wheels two upright posts, supporting
the ends of a horizontal crank-shaft,
on which is a small vertical wheel.
Imagine a man standing on one foot
on the larger wheel and the other




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                  347
foot on the crank, and you have one form of the popular razorgrinder. He appears to turn the wheel with his foot, and, holding the instrument to the surface, a stream of fire flies from it
as from a dry grindstone.
The movements of the wood-sawyer and the rest were produced in the same or in a similar way. At ten P.M. the display began, and continued till twelve. The place was as light
as day with artificial flames. On one pole two gentlemen raised
their hats and bowed to each other; close by them, a chambermaid waited with a candle in her hand to show them to their
apartments. A lady on another moved her hands, as if to join
them to a neighboring dandy, and whirled away in a cotillion.
A tumbler stuck fast in a somerset, and remained in an inverted position to the close, when, with the rest, he vanished in
a flash. The wood-sawyer and his African assistants worked
away; the razor-grinder's wheel flew round, and his foot rose
and fell with the treddle at a preternatural rate. Occasionally
his grindstone lacked moisture, and then he spat jets of liquid
fire on it, his face glistening with sweat or varnish. While admiring his ardor, I felt a slight movement at my coat pocket.
It was picked. Five seconds had not elapsed since I felt my
pocket-book in it. Turning quickly round, my eyes met those
of two young fellows looking innocent as doves. One of them
had it. They had, I presume, seen me take it out repeatedly.
It contained only memoranda and sketches, chiefly of the auctioneer and empire. I had been reminded of pickpockets at the
feast, and had no money or watch about me.
Having a long walk before me, I left ere more than half the
figures on the poles were in motion. In passing the Lapa
Church, I observed windlasses and wheel-work in motion on a
few poles. Over an illumined doorway an angel unfolds a
scroll, exposing the words " Gloria ao -Divino Espirito Santo."
The auctioneer was inviting bids for a fowl; his audience were
chiefly negroes and low fellows. T~ told me he stopped a
moment in passing, and that the language of the brute was
abominably indecent.
Thus ended the month of May and the first day of the feast
of the Holy Ghost. In their general aspects and influences festas are certainly akin to operas and theatres, but it would be




348                 SKETCHES OF
wrong to consider them specimens of papal worship. They are,
I believe, just what their pagan prototypes were, reunions in
honor of patron divinities, and not occasions for invoking them
so much as for social rejoicings.
The fete was kept up by the Santa Anna managers for eight
days. On the last day the emperor for the next year was elected. The same boy was chosen. He is the son of an apothecary, who is fond of the honor, which costs him, it is said, five
hundred dollars a year.
The concluding official advertisements were as follows:
"It is communicated to the respectable public, and to the
Brotherhood of the Divine Holy Ghost of Santa Anna, that on
Sunday, 7th instant, there will be celebrated a Te _Deum and
sermon, when the re-elected emperor will take possession. At
night the auction and empire.
"J. J. GOMES FERREIRA, Secretary."
"'Divino Epirito Santo de Santa Anna.-On Sunday, 7th,
the ceremony of the Emperor of the Holy Ghost taking possession will occur in the afternoon, with a Te Deum and music.
Signorina Cardiani [an Italian cantatrice] and other artists will
perform gratis. The empire will be illuminated at night. There
will be an auction, music, and splendid fireworks."
In the same paper the booth and show men advertise their
attractions. On the evening of the 7th the Campo was in my
way home from Mataporcos. The auctioneer wore a court dress,
his hair powdered, a long queue, etc. He was in high gleesold a basket of fowls and pigeons in no time. I left him dancing a polka on stilts. The Italian performers had got through
their parts before I arrived. The showmen were doing a good
business.  The wide steps to one booth, where "the diverting
scene of the monkey in a sack" was announced, gave way under
the crowds waiting for admission.
Of tradesmen's advertisements relating to this festival the annexed is a sample:
"Notice to the Illustrious Preparers of the Festival of the




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                     349
[oly Spirit.-In Silversmith Street, No. 78, may be found a
beautiful assortment of Holy Ghosts, in gold, with glories, at
80 cents each; smaller sizes, without glories, at 40 cents. Silver Holy Ghosts, with glories, at 61 dollars per hundred; do.,
without glories, 31 dollars. Holy Ghosts of tin, resembling
silver, at 75 cents per hundred."
CHAPTER XXXI.
Vicar and Vintems. -Theatricals.-Barbonos Monks and the troublesome Blacksmith.-Priscilliana.-Host and drunken Bellman.-Proceedings of the National
Senate arrested.-Slave-trader's Office.-Anthony of the Poor: his Festival and
Tablets.-Mosquitoes and Lizards.-Corpus Christi and St. George.-Showmen
and the Burial.
June 1. Besides half-holidays, there are six full ones this
month, exclusive of Sundays.  The vicar got through mass
early, and came in to breakfast and bisca. He mentioned an
old lady in good circumstances, who plagued him for two vintems. As he had none about him, to get rid of her importunities he gave her a couple out of the alms-box.  This was just
what she wanted. As they were consecrated, they would act
as a charm against poverty, and while she retained them  she
would never lack the means of living. Under a similar persuasion, a poor woman requests him, once a year, to fold up, for a
few moments, a vintem in the altar-cloth.
3d. The great day of the feast; the performers in the Campo, and other artists also, are on the gui vive, thus: the play
to-night at one theatre is "The Jealous Woman: a comedy,
in five acts, with other entertainments, for the benefit of Nossa
Senhora da Concei9ao, in Soap Street."  In another, "The
3[an of the Black lfask, in five acts, with the comedy of T/ze
Brothers of Souls;" the latter a satire on the collectors, who
are represented as pocketing the alms they collect. To-morrow," Thie Scholars of St. Cyro, in five acts; a Miazurka -Dance,
and the farce of Judas on Allelulia."   "T /e Feast of the
Holy' Ghost in the Country" is another popular comedy of the
kind.
We fell in to-day with one of the Barbonos monks, recently
returned from a visit to the Holy Land.  B, who is a wag,




350                 SKETCHES OF
asked him how it was that they allowed Brother Leonardo to
hold possession of property belonging to the order, and to carry
on blacksmithing to the disgrace of the Church. How can the
people venerate the Barbonos?
Monk. "Piani.  Be advised that I have brought an order
from Rome to call him to account and take away his credentials
as a friar. The business requires caution, but with time and
patience we will remove the stain from our order and recover
the property. For several years he has received the alms collected for the poor saints at Jerusalem, and has sent neither
money nor accounts to Rome; and, besides seizing buildings
and land belonging to the society, he has made some of its
slaves work for him, and now claims them as his own; but piani, piani" (softly, softly).
B. "Let me tell you that he has strong friends under
the present government, as he had under that of Pedro I. Several members of the Chamber of Deputies board with him."
Monk. "We know it. It is his influence with the Chambers
and part of the ministry that makes us pause. He does not
know the powers I have brought over respecting him. Were
he to discover my thoughts, he would try to get rid of me, or
perhaps induce the government to order me to leave."
B  -, whispering in his ear. " Not so, padre, while the empress, your countrywoman, befriends you, and the nuncio is
with you."
Monk. "Amigo, I will tell you.  The nuncio and I are
agreed on what is to be done." Here he placed his two forefingers side by side, and rubbed one along the other-an expressive sign of two parties drawing together in one business.
It was a treat to see the two confabulating, so rapidly did
their features change and their tongues and fingers move; one
moment aghast, the next bland and smiling; now a scream,
next a whisper, anon the tongue lies still, and the hands take
up the story. The monk was a young man, under thirty, and
I could not but think him indiscreet to speak so freely on the
subject. The chief of the Capuchins approached, called him
from us, and, whispering to him, eyed us significantly. He was
undoubtedly rebuking him for conversing with us, for, though
we often fell in with him afterward, he avoided us.




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                      351
As for the backsliding friar, he is said to care not the value
of a nail-rod for all the tonsured tribe, and that, if he had the
power, he would not hesitate to make his late brethren blow the
bellows and wield sledge-hammers in his forge. On returning,
we called to see him, but he had just stepped out. HIe enters
his shop in his gown, takes orders for shoes for both mules and
men (having slaves shoemakers), and almost any thing in the
iron and leather trade.*
4th. In this morning's ramble H —-- and I found Priscilliana
holding a levee. Her portrait committee were doing as brisk a
business as the adjoining Baracas gentlemen. As we were
about to leave, a wretched-looking negro, with a small bell in
his hand, came up and stood by us at the door. His only garments were the relies of a filthy shirt, and of more foul and tattered pants. He muttered to himself, and was so fragrant with
cachaga that H ——, after interrogating him, threatened to knock
him down if he did not move farther off. " What is he going
to do with that bell?"  "Wait a moment," said my companion,
" and you will see." The words were scarcely spoken when
two mules drew a carro up. A man came out of the church
with a lantern, and lit the carriage-lamps. A priest next came
forth, with an attendant holding a red, flat canopy over him.
Both got into the chaise, the half-drunken negro stepped ahead
of the mules, the postillion laid his whip across their backs,
and the cortege started for the house of some sick person with
the Host; the bellman, in a jog-trot, keeping in advance, and
causing people to move their hats, and some to kneel, till he and
his followers passed by.
As the National Senate was in session, we stepped in and
took seats in the gallery, which contained but four other spectators. Twenty members were present, two with skull-caps,
and the secretary also had a tonsure. A senator was fervently
discussing a project for distributing property of deceased parents
equally between legitimate and illegitimate offspring. He wished the law to be more explicit; he alluded to the facility of ob* His enemies did not succeed in displacing him. In a late almanac he appears as usual, under the head of Hospicio de Jerusalem: " Fr. Leonardo de Encarnaqao Santa Anna, Commissario Geral da Terra Santa." However suitable in
other respects his name may be, the Incarnation of the Virgin Mother is surely an
unfit appellative for a modern Vulcan.




352                 SKETCHES OF
taiing fraudulent testimony, and referred to a class of men,
who, as in Lisbon, swear, he said, to any thing for a pataca, or
at most for a milreis. From our seats we saw the drunken negro and carriage returning. Presently his bell was heard within, when the speaker paused, and every senator arose, and stood
in silence till the sound died away!
We called at a slave-dealer's office. On the walls were penny
daubs of the Madonna and other characters. One was a black
saint, with Hottentot cherubs floating in the air, and two ebony
mortals at his feet. There would have been no occasion to ask
his name had it not been printed on the sheet —" The miraculous San Bento, Protector of Angola." There were no slaves
about the premises, and nothing except these wallflowers to indicate the nature of the business transacted in them.
Antonio des Pobres was holding a festival in honor of " Our
Lady of Pleasures," accompanied with an auction. We looked
in on our way home. Beneath a shabby transparency sat four
musicians on a small stage by the church door. The auctioneer had no stand, but hunted for bids inside and out. The images had been washed and otherwise improved. Anthony had
on a clean gown, and his baby a new frock. Among waxen
offerings in the vestry were numerous old tablets.  Htranslated a few. On one a man's leg and thigh were painted,
all red and sore with wounds; the owner had applied to Anthony and was healed. Another represents Graciana Maria da
Conceigao on a sinking ship off Rio Grande; she, too, called on
him, and he saved her. One board certifies that a man, severely afflicted with spasms, was cured in a moment by Our Lady
of Pleasures, to whom he offered the votive acknowledgment.
On a large tablet a wild man is crouching in the woods, like another Orson, and gazing at a white man and three negroes. The
writing below tells us that the poor fellow had become insane,
and, flying to the forest, lived like a beast; but his wife, Paulina Maria da Concei9ao, had great devotion to the Holy Ghost,
by whose miraculous interference the maniac crept out of his
lair, and went quietly home with the four messengers sent for
him. The painting represents him at the moment when they
first came in sight of him.
June 11. Annoyed last night by musquitoes.  The little




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                  353
house lizards are a blessing, since they hunt these pests without
ceasing. I found one on the wall near my pillow, and secured
it in a glass shade. Though they dart up and down the sides
of rooms, I have not yet detected one moving across the ceiling.
The prisoner climbed the sides of the glass quite readily when
they were dry, but when wetted it could not keep itself from
sliding down. The sucker-apparatus by which they are supposed to suspend themselves against gravity I could not detect
through the glass. Their feet are furnished with minute claws.
They have their enemies, for our noble cat, allied to the wild
species, has a hoarse cough, the effect of having lunched too
freely on them this morning.
This is Corpus Christi, a great day with Romanists every
where. Here, the emperor, his court, senators, and soldiers join
in the procession. It is the only occasion on which St. George
appears in public. Mounted on his charger, he, in his official
character of Defender of the Empire, takes the precedence.
Prince and people walk behind him. As the Church's champion, he heads her squadrons too. Not having been so fortunate as to find his residence once open during repeated calls, I
must attend, if only to become acquainted with a character so
popular with Protestants and papists as this chief of dragonkillers.
The morning papers announce that " the Board of Directors
of the Brotherhood of the glorious St. George invite the brethren to attend at his chapel at 9 A.M., to accompany him in the
Procession of the Body of God. The image will pass through
Theatre Square, Piolho, and Cadeia Streets, to the Imperial
Chapel, and return through Dereita, Alfandega, and Fogo
Streets, to his chapel in Rua do Lampadoza."
As George is the only saint that goes on horseback, I determined to call upon him. The streets were thronged with
people hoping against hope, for the sky was lowering. The
early morning promised a splendid day. The Corcovado, in
verdant vesture, and set off with the bright ethereal ground behind him, reared his head in glorious relief, as if he, too, had
donned his best in honor of the festival, and was waiting for it
to begin. Within an hour he shrunk out of sight, for the smiling heavens put on a face of sorrow, and at length burst into
Z




354                  SKETCHES OF
tears. I found a troop of cavalry in front of his shabby quarters waiting to escort him to the Imperial Chapel, where the emperor, ministers of state, the Legislature, judges, provincial governors, and the elite of the army and Church were ready to receive him. A native of the East, his fane reminds one of Arabian palaces with exteriors indicative of poverty's abodes.
Here is neither steeple, tower, nor clock; no vestibule, railings,
steps, nor even flagging, to separate its precincts from the common carriage-way. The front elevation resembles the gable end
of a barn-no higher, wider, and hardly more tasteful. The
sill is, of any thing, below the wet and clammy pavement. All
things look mean about it-even the curtain that hangs between
the door-jambs is faded, worn out, and borrowed from " Luzia,"
whose name is wrought on it.
We push it aside, and find the walls rough, and rafters bare,
the damp floor giving way under one's feet, while bits of old
carpet cover the worst spots. Passing by the committee on
portraits, we discover the saint standing in full dress against the
wall, waiting for the weather to clear up. Females crowd to
kiss his hand, courtesy to him, and some sit down in front to
admire him. Ite wears a plumed helmet, a cambric tippet frilled round his neck, a crimson tunic
with skirts reaching to his knees,
black leggins with large spurs; his
feet are already in the stirrups, which
are attached to his thighs instead of
the saddle.  He grasps a shield in
one hand, and a baton in the other.
A mantle lies ready to throw over
him when mounted.  A short sword'is at his waist, and muslin frills at
his wrists.  His stature is that of
an ordinary-sized soldier, but his
ST. GEORGE.     ruddy, smooth face, without beard,
whiskers, or mustache, is not like a warrior's. His horse is in
a neighboring stable. His helmet, corslet, and armlets are of
pasteboard, colored in imitation of steel; the shield is of tin
plate. At 2 P.M., no signs of the weather improving, the
troops were dismissed and the procession given up.




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                  355
I called at the Imperial Chapel on my way home, and found
it crowded. Two rows of halberdiers, extending from the entrance to the altar, had just formed a passage for a miniature
procession. The organ was playing and eunuchs singing, and
so foul was the air that two negroes dropped and were borne
out as dead. I found it impossible to remain in five minutes
without approaching the door for fresh air. The programme
was at length arranged: first came chanting eunuchs, the brotherhood with candles, priests, and canons; the body of God under a canopy, the emperor with a lighted candle, ministers of
state and others, with their sons in court costumes, reminding
one of Tom Thumbs in morris dances. Then followed the
guard with their burnished spears. In this order the whole
passed three times up and down the floor, and so wound up the
official ceremonies of the day.
I subsequently called with a friend on the "Defender of the
Brazilian Empire," and was not a little surprised to find him
stowed away in a dark closet, and stripped as clean as if a troop
of Ishmaelites or Camanches had met him. He had not a rag
to his back. As his equestrian attitudes required something more than a
stiff statue, I now saw how the positions of his limbs were varied. He
was sitting on a trestle, and is made
in all respects like a jointed doll. His
charger, a present from the emperor,
the sacristan denounces as "Ia wicked
beast," for dishonoring the saint last
year by kicking and shying, so that
E   2I l        but for Our Lady's aid he would have
ST. EORGE IN UNDRES.   been thrown to the ground!  The image is an old one, of hard and heavy wood. One horse was
trained to kneel till it was properly adjusted to the saddle.
In reply to a remark about the saint's nudity, the zealous sacristan almost shed tears while telling us that the Church was
too poor to buy him any clothing.  "We contract with an armador to dress him on his festival, and that is all we can do.
In Lisbon the saint receives the salary of a lieutenant colonel,
and his chapel there is very rich."




356                 SKETCHES OF
Showmen in the Campo offer the following attractions:
"In the Barraca of Good Taste there will be an extraordinary divertisement on the day of the Body of God.
"In the Theatro Magico, a Representation in Three Parts:
Part 1. The Passion of our Lord, viz., The Birth —St. Joseph
-Garden of Olives-Holy Magdalen —The Tortures —St. Peter-Our Lord of the Paces-St. George-The CrucifixionSt. John Baptist-The Resurrection-The Holy Virgin. Part
2. Cosmoramic Views.  Part 3. Diverting Phantasmagoria:
The Sorcerer —Flying Death's Head-The Parisian GalateaThe Changed Head-Don Quixote —Walking Woman-Garden of Love and the Monster.  To conclude with
"THREE CATS DANCING THE POLKA."
Of religious plays and interludes by which the day was celebrated in the Middle Ages, The Passion of our Lord was one;
The Creation, Deluge, Susannah, Dives and Lazarus, Burial of
Christ, and scores taken neither from the Old Testament nor the
New, were others. Even the whiskered artists are not modern,
though the part assigned them may be. At Aix, on this festival, the finest cat of the country, wrapped in swaddling-clothes
like a child, was exhibited in a shrine to public admiration.
The burial was performed in two or three parishes, but I did
not attend. Passing by the Candelaria, I stepped in for a moment. The panel in front of an altar was removed, exposing a
dead Christ, as represented below.
r —--— 1; X     U 11111111-m'v1 X   1-11111-, -a'    A
6 =




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                    357
CHAPTER XXXII.
Crockery-wares: Talhas.-Monkey. —Moringues.-Furnaces, Flower-pots, etc.Water-baril.-Scrubbing-brush.-Mortars. —Fuel.
AN element of domestic life, and a chief item of household
furniture, Brazilian crockery-ware is interesting to a stranger.
The articles bear little resemblance to those in our kitchens, and
some are obvious modifications of aboriginal patterns. With
the exception of portable furnaces (Fig. 8 in the above group)
and a few garden-pots (6), the entire cargoes of boats often consist of talhas and moringues-that is, of vessels to hold, and
others from which to drink water. The material is a light red,
porous clay, slightly baked, and unglazed. A penknife will
readily drill a hole through it. The wares made in the neighborhood of Rio are not to be compared with the fabrics of Bahia, so much superior are the latter. A fine white clay is found
there.
Every house has a talha (Fig. 1 of the group) standing in the
corner of a room or passage, and holding from ten to fifteen gallons. A slave keeps it filled from the street fountains. Frequently the bottom is rounded, and then it rests in a wooden




3.68                 SKETCHES OF
stand or table, half of it passing through an opening cut in the
top. 2, 3, 4, 5 are variations. In the latter the neck is shaped
like a human bust, and the hat-crown is the lid. No. 7 is the
figure of a vase occasionally seen at the fountains.
I have not seen a European pitcher, or any thing like one, in
a native dwelling. Home-made substitutes are cheaper, keep
their contents cooler, and on other grounds are preferred. They
form the class of water-pots next to talhas, and among them the
"monkey" is pre-eminent.  Met with every where, it is emphatically the "pitcher of Brazil."  See figure a, page 359.
Two sizes are in general use-one holding a gallon and a half,
and the other two and a half. The monkey is an ancient moringue enlarged; I think it is the only vessel used in Rio with
two spouts, an attribute common to old South American pottery, and not confined to it.* The larger orifice or tube is an
inch bore, the other a quarter of an inch. On filling the vessel
at the former, the air within escapes through the latter, and
vice versa when the contents are discharging. Instead of using
a tumbler, the old Portuguese and country people slip the small
tube into their mouths, and slake their thirst as we do when we
salute the lips of pitchers. Corks or wooden plugs to close the
orifices are often seen attached by strings to the bale or handle
(the curved strip between the two spouts). They serve to exclude ants, air, dust, etc. The monkey, independent of its water-cooling properties, deserves the attention of North American
potters. It has advantages sufficient to justify its general introduction among us.
The figures b, c, d, e are specimens of table meringues, containing two to three pints.  Smaller ones are figured at i, i;
with their covers, these are made in imitation of pine-apples and
other fruit.  Earthenware decanters (I) are common.  These
porous vessels, by promoting evaporation, keep their contents
cooler than glass ones; hence the preference to drink water at
dinner, as the expression is, "from  the clay."  All have covers, which are removed and replaced at every sip.
" Gurgling moringues" are such as have the openings into
the bodies made intentionally small. Like similar toys in
vogue in the Middle Ages, they embarrass no little those who
* See a Grecian vase on plate 33, Traite des Arts Chramiques, Paris, 1844.




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                  359
unsuspectingly attempt to quench thirst from them. A section
of one is seen at j.
A view of an Indian moringue is shown at r-an interesting
variety of conceits of red-skinned potters. A hunter's flask, it
has loops by which to sling it over the shoulder. Its capacity
is about a quart. It has two external openings, both quite
small: one in the breast of the bird, the other in the bottom,
through which it is filled. A tube, as seen by the dotted lines,
extends from each opening to nearly the opposite extremity of
the interior. To charge this vessel, it is inverted, and water
poured into the hollow base, which serves as a funnel. When
the liquid rises till it begins to enter the orifice of the other
tube, the vessel then is turned to its first position. By applying the mouth to the breast of the bird, the contents are sucked
up-an operation simple and easy.  The orifice terminates
sometimes in the mouths of birds and animals. These vessels
are on sale in shops, and come from the northern provinces,
where most of the potters are Indians.
The only apologies for mugs that came under my notice were




360                 SKETCHES OF
very rough affairs.  (See v.)  They are probably designed for
slaves, being used to heat water in as well as to drink out of.
A wash-bowl and basin from Bahia are seen at f, g. They are
highly painted, but poorly burned.
Figure 9 of the first group, and figure k of the second, are
the common censers. Placed on the floor, a few dried leaves
of alecrim, a native species of rosemary, are dropped on the
coals, when a strong acrid vapor rises and pervades every crevice. Seeds of alfazema, or lavender, are imported for the purpose. French pastiles are employed by the wealthy.
With the foregoing, the reader has not only fair samples, but
a compend of the pottery fabrics of Brazil.
7 is the universal, omnipresent " baril," with which the head
of every slave is familiar. A natural and durable, as well as
cheap scrubbing-brush, is shown at m, n-two halves of the
husk of a cocoa-nut. This article is much used for scouring
floors, as fibrous threads are developed by use, and continue to
project about a quarter of an inch from the face as long as the
shell lasts.
The god Pilumnus reigns as powerful here as in the East.
R, 8 show the common wooden mortar and pestle of the country, the former standing about three feet high, and the latter
nearly as long as the slave that wields it. In material and dimensions they are fac-similes of those found portrayed in old
Egyptian kitchens, are identical with those of classical nations.
and such as are still common in India, China, and, in fact,
throughout the Oriental world. Not till I saw them did I perceive the appositeness of the aphorism of Solomon about the
braying of fools. Some are large enough to squeeze a man into
them.
Fuel.-The native fuel of Rio is charcoal and wood.  The
latter is quite small, the sticks seldom running two feet in length,
and over an inch and a half thick. Bundles consisting of ten
of these are sold by the quantity at two cents each. The Bay
steamers raise steam with similar bundles, except that the sticks
are somewhat thicker; but of vast piles on the steamers' docks,
hardly a stick could be found four inches thick.




LIFE IN  BRAZIL.                     36
CHAPTER XXXIII.
A Trip to Macacu.-Steam up the Bay.-Prospects.-Slaves.-Sambayratiba.Dense Mist.-Bed-chamber.-Attacked by Rats.-Extent of the Pest.-Sugarhouse.-Stingless Bees.-Sheep.-Dogs without Tails.-Visit other Estates.Wasps' and Ants' Nests.-The Rats again.-Scenes in the Forest.-Sipos.Spoon Wheels.-Female Slaves making Brick.-Chigres.-Muleteers camping.
-Estate of the Carmelites. -Mules.
June 13. The anniversary of Anthony of Padua, a ceaseless racket was kept up all last night to his honor; and now,
rockets, Roman candles, bonfires, music, vivas, bells, guns,
bombs, and every noise-making device, are the order of the day.
Were he the god of fire and brimstone, they could not treat him
to a greater variety of sulphurous compounds. I am well-nigh
tired of the holy clatter of the city, its sacred shows and ecclesiastic toy-shops; and if the reader prefer a week's jaunt into
the country, he will join a party of us bound this morning for
Macacu.
In a diminutive steamer we pushed through a crowd of faluas
and canoes, passed the foreign shipping, and sought the upper
waters of the Bay. Among the passengers were a couple of
planters, in scarlet vests and ponchos, tight-fitting white pants
ending in yellow, sagging boots, to which enormous and far-projecting spurs were strapped, suggesting the idea of human roosters prepared for battle in a cock-pit; and with this their volubility and gesticulations accorded, for one moment they would
start back as if each took the other for an adder, the next the
shorter one whispers in the long one's ear, and a mutual distortion of mouths and shrugging of shoulders follow.
The scenes around us were exhilarating, and the air delicious
in temperature and freshness. We passed Governor's Island,
and numerous insulated rocks, one standing like a column on a
larger one for its base, all bleached like chalk, and as bare of
vegetation. Boats were at anchor among them fishing up shells
for lime-kilns. We swept past Paqueta, the Capri of Rio, and
the favorite island retreat of the old king.  At 3 P.M. we were




362                 SKETCHES OF
aground within a mile of the mouth of the Macacu River. The
boat drew but thirty inches, and for some time the wheels had
been working in mud.  One or two sailing-boats now passed
us, and played off jokes common on the Hudson in the early
days of steam —' offering to report us, to take our mail, etc. In
half an hour the tide rose and we ran in. White herons, stalking along the shores, tempted some sportsmen aboard, but after
each shot the birds arose, and threw their long legs behind them
as if in derision of the gunners. Half a mile wide at its mouth,
the stream rapidly narrows, and becomes crooked as a moving
serpent. The water is turbid, and the banks but little above
it. Dense shrubbery extends at the left over an impenetrable
swamp for forty or fifty miles, and at the right for five or six,
with occasional cultivated patches. Here are said to be two
hundred leagues of morass, ever pregnant with malaria, and
solely occupied by wild beasts.
We passed four boats laden with slaves, part of a cargo just
landed east of Rio, and now being smuggled-if the term can be
used where next to no secresy is affected —down to Christoval,
to the depot near the palace. Before morning they will be dispersed, and in a few days all at work. There were fifty in each
boat, all young men. They stood up on passing us, surprised,
probably, at a steamer. It was dark when we landed at Porto
de Sampaio, a small town, where there was not room for the
little steamer to turn, so narrow was the channel. We had now
seventeen miles to go by land. Out of a troop of mules ready
saddled we selected four, had spurs strapped to our heels, and
in a little while were wending our way through a woody and
wild-looking country. At a late hour we arrived at Sambayratiba, the hospitable fazenda of our friends J. and A. B    a, a
property that has been in the family for several generations.
14th. The morning opened on us with a mist, exceeding in
density any thing of the kind I ever saw or felt. The atmosphere was a sea of aqueous globules. Two small birds lighted
on a tree in front of the house, and instantly a drenching shower fell from the leaves. Even humming-birds shook spray from
the shrubbery.  Before quitting our sleeping-apartments, a
slave brought in strong coffee without milk, a universal custom,
except in provinces where the berry is not grown, and there




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                  363
mate is taken instead. One or the other is deemed essential to
health, and perhaps is so, in consequence of the morning fogs.
The venerable dwelling of our hosts is a low one of stone, with
the usual central court. At one end of the wide stoop or corridor was a small room containing two cot bedsteads, and on a
table the family patrona, the Lady Concei9ao, in a glass case,
with three candles, unlit, before her. Another shade inclosed
what I took for a fancy Swiss figure, as it was draped in a
roundabout jacket, trowsers, sash, and a wide straw hat. It
represented the Baptist, to whose providence and that of " Our
Lady" the old proprietors had committed the estate. This favored dormitory was appropriatedE H -- and me; and here,
I thought, as I wrote on the takle, is something very like ancient penetralia with their penates, for Greek and Roman farmers had wax and wooden images of tutelary deities in their private chambers.
H   - had been in bed some time, and begged me to retire
and put out the light. I complied, and laid down, excessively
fatigued. A few moments after the room had been darkened,
there fell what I took for a storm of hail, as severe as any in
our Northern winters. The pattering fairly shook the low roof.
The noise for an instant ceased, and in another was renewed
upon the floor! Alarmed, I spoke to H., but his reply was
an unmeaning monosyllable. In the act of calling again, some
half dozen objects fell on my bed. With a convulsive shudder, I
kicked off the sheet- the only covering-and sent one against
the ceiling, whence I heard it fall on the table, spring thence on
the floor, and scamper across it with a squeak. Agitated as I
was, my companion almost made my soul die within me; for,
turning over in his berth, he said, in a half-awake tone, "Why
don't you lie still? they're only rats."
I shall not tell the reader how long I sat up in the dark, trying to scare the vermin away. Not all the shirs and hissings I
could make, nor the lashings of the bed and floor with a jacket,
seemed to incommode them. On the foot of the bed some
sprang every few moments, and I felt them pulling my garments
out of my grasp. To confess the truth, I was half frightened to
death, assured, if I laid down, they would be on my head and
face. The first dawn never was more welcomed than was it




364                 SKETCHES OF
this morning to me. It was the signal for the troop to decamp.
They made a rush, then all was silent; next followed the scampering over the roof, and they were gone.
What a scene the light brought forth! The entire floor was
sprinkled, but the altar-table was fairly covered with their dung.
It is no exaggeration to say that the cloth and writing-paper
resembled, at the distance, thick spotted calico. The flat candlestick, and even HI's snuff-box, in like manner covered.
One half of a new pair of soft leather braces was carried off; its
mate had gone also, but the burglars not having eaten quite
through the loop that held it to H-'s pants, the latter prevented them from taking it; still, had the opening through which
they had dragged it been somewhat larger, the more essential
part of my companion's dress had vanished. Every atom of
the candle was gone, wick and all.  "Why, here's a miracle,"
I exclaimed; " our candle has vanished, but these three before
the images are untouched." "Oh," replied my companion, "the
devils know better than touch them: they can not digest wax;
it kills them." This nightly defilement of the family sanctuary
is horrible; so far from the images being any protection, glass
alone prevents their being devoured. Not till now had I any
adequate idea of this terrible plague, nor of the worth of Ulrich,
the canonized rat-killer of Augsburg.
There was much hearty laughing at breakfast at my dread
of the nocturnal marauders.  They abound throughout the
country, do not harbor in houses, but come down from the hills
at nightfall, and retreat at daybreak. Once a year poison is
laid for them. Garcilasso la Vega has a chapter on the "incredible number" of rats in his day. He mentions how they
swarmed in Peru, Panama, and Nombre de Dios, refers to an
annual proclamation commanding every householder, on a certain day, to poison them, and quotes the fact of the crew of a
vessel going ashore at Truxillo, and leaving a sick man aboard,
who was attacked by them. He managed to get a spit from
the cook's berth, and with it, on his bed, protected himself the
whole of that day and night. When his associates returned,
they found three hundred and eighty rats killed by his spit, besides many wounded.
The estate of our hosts is considered a small one, being only




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   365
half a league square. Inclosed by neighboring mountains, a
considerable part is forest-land. The stock consists of thirtysix mules, forty oxen and cows, and seventy slaves, old and
young-about thirty are able-bodied.  Four first-rate hands
and two children, valued at $800, recently died of fever. Mandioca, coffee, beans, pork, and mutton are raised in sufficient
quantities for the family and negroes. The staple of the farm
is sugar. Nothing else is cultivated for sale. The crop this
season is a fair one, and is expected to yield four hundred
moulds of eighty pounds each, which, at 5 cents, will yield only
$1600-a miserable sum for the investment of so much capital,
for the product of the wear and tear of so many men, and animals, and other costly instrumentalities-a sum, too, which has
to be diminished by the cost of boxes, transportation to market,
commissions, and taxes.
The mill, driven by mules, is the one of the last century —the
first European form of the Asiatic original-consisting of three
vertical wooden rollers cased with iron. The expressed juice
passed through a log into the adjoining boiling-house, where the
ordinary process of concentration was followed. Between the
mill and the mansion are the slaves' huts. Against one were
stuck up two small cigar-boxes- hives of A6belhas jurutys,
little bees. Jurutys is an Indian diminutive. These honeymaking insects are slightly thicker in the head and body than
musquitoes, for which I at first took them. Their cells bear no
resemblance to those of our bees. The comb is, in color, a dark
brown, and in construction it reminds one of that of ants' nests.
Extremely sensitive to atmospheric influences, they close every
joint of their dwellings, and at night lock themselves so close
that neither robbers nor damp air can invade them, the only
door being as regularly opened and closed as the gates of a fortified city. They never open it till the sun has been some time
up, and invariably close it before the evening dew begins to
fall. I made it a point to observe, morning and evening, the
door-keepers at work.
A quarter-inch gimlet-hole made through one side of each
hive is the only place of exit and entrance. Over it the little
artists form a short tube of wax, and curve it upward till the
aperture is horizontal. In a morning the orifice is opened and




366                 SKETCHES OF
the edges flared out; in the evening the material is gathered
into a bulb or dome, like the sealed end of a barometer-tube.
These bees are stingless, but singularly courageous, since they
drive from their neighborhoods the common bee.
I have mentioned the general appearance of Brazilian sheep.
The ram on this estate was of the Mozambique breed-black,
except the nose and tip of the tail; small and sharp ears;
agile, and with very little hair or wool on his body, but with a
mane full and shaggy as a lion's. A noble animal, he stood
nearly six inches higher than the tallest ewes.
Here is a herd of large dogs, something between the greyhound and the wolf, of a dun color, short hair, and without the
least indication of tails. They have four large fangs in front,
two above and two below. A smaller species have two or three
inches of tail, appearing to a stranger as docked. At Sampaio
was a mastiff-looking pup without the shadow of one. If I
believed in man's quadrumanous descent, I would quote these
to sustain the hypothesis, since all the dogs of the earth are derived by naturalists from long-tailed progenitors. Of Brazilian
quadrupeds destitute of a caudal appendage, the paca is one.
It has given rise to a popular form of rebuke: A vaunting emigrant, returning from a hunt without game, asserted that he had
run to its burrow one of these animals, which escaped him,
though not till he had deprived it of its tail. Hence of a vain
boaster it is said, "I He'll cut off a paca's tail."
Accompanied by Senhor J, and mounted on mules,
Messrs. M, H-, and myself started to visit some neighboring fazendas. At a league's distance we came to the Sumidouro estate, the property of an ex-deputy and state councilor. The mill, of the latest construction, was, with the steamengine that drives it, imported from England. The crushing
cylinders are horizontal, and the cane passes through twice at
one operation. Here were four evaporating pans. At every
sugar plantation the molasses is distilled into cachaga; and
here, as at others, were enormous hogsheads in which the spirit
is stored, and whence it is drawn for sale.
Here 200 slaves are employed and 100 oxen. About fourteen moulds are filled daily (=1200 lbs. of sugar) during the
season. The proprietor, a fine, fat old gentleman, was sitting




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   367
in the engine-house. He has recently buried his wife, and is
paralytic. Infant negroes were playing about him, and one
stood between his knees. His negroes, he said, were his children, and truly he seemed to treat them as such. One of the
oldest fabricas in the province, this is admitted to be the best
conducted; yet he said it yielded no profit. He dislikes slavery, but thinks white laborers can not supersede it in Brazil.
Leaving, we came to the borders of a lake, where the dogs
started an alligator. Here waved the conical lilac crests of the
matured sugar-plant, towering from ten to fifteen feet above the
ground-a beautiful sight. We came to a shanty, which turned
out a venda for the sale of soap, shoes, cacha9a, and straw and
willow wares made by tamed Indians. Continuing on, we passed under a tree, from which a flock of parrakeets flew chattering
away.  Near by was an ant's nest, built on a fence of stakesan irregular, hard, and brown mass of clay, three feet high, as
many wide, and two feet thick. I stopped at another, of the form
of a huge pine-apple, nearly four feet in diameter, and full five
feet high, built in a tree. It is wonderful how creatures so minute manage to carry these masses of matter to such elevations.
At the "Engenho d'Agoa," a twelve-foot undershot wheel,
with buckets only fifteen inches wide, drove three jacaranda
stampers for husking rice in wooden mortars. In the carpenter's shop wagons were being made by slaves, the little adze in
their hands bringing wheels and felloes into form to admiration.
Old rose-wood axle-trees lay about, rendered useless by fire
evolved from their friction.  We returned before dark, after as
picturesque a ramble as man ever enjoyed.
Determined to have what I so greatly needed, some rest, I
began to block out our midnight tormentors. The flooringplanks were eaten away, more or less, along the four sides of
the room. A tin trunk, old shoes, chair-feet, walking-sticks, and
umbrellas, were put in requisition.  NM-     and H  came
in and assisted. There was a small library in a closet, and a
score of octavos and quartos were employed. To my surprise,
Senhor MI- did not hesitate to fold up an old missal to plug
one hole. The butt-end of a musket was dropped into a corner cavity, that the invaders probably deemed the key of the
fortress.




368                 SKETCHES OF
The light had certainly not been out a minute before the roof
rattled as before; a pause ensued, during which the burglars
were descending by unknown passages to the under side of the
floor; anon they were working at our barricades. First one,
and then another gave way. A few spies entered, scampered
over the floor, jumped on the table and the beds, squeaked intelligence to those that sent them, and in a twinkling the horde
rushed in. I was at my wits' end, while my acclimated dozing
friend cared not one whit whether they were in or out. They
drew off at 4 A.M., and not till then did I get a wink of sleep.
It is a curious fact, that an individual or two led off in the retreat every night, while a couple of whippers-in staid a few moments behind, their tread being quite distinct.
16th. By 9 A.M. five of us were mounted for another day's
ride, accompanied by the manager of the slaves, himself a Pardo, and, therefore, not allowed to wear shoes. To his naked
heels spurs were strapped. The popular bentivee, a bird as
large as a robin, ever and anon saluted us, while flocks of the
tiniest of the parrot family flew about us. We entered at one
spot the primeval forest by what seemed a foot-path, having
constantly to stop to avoid being unhorsed by the branches. A
few trees were from three to six feet in diameter, and rose to
great elevations; such were the sapocaias, favorite haunts of
monkeys. Our dogs started pacas and other game, but neither
horsemen nor footmen could follow them, so dense and dark the
interior became. The eye could not penetrate over twenty feet,
and sometimes not ten.
Sipos, or vegetable cordage, of every size, from thread to cables, hung down from aloft, and ran hither and thither, thick
almost as the rigging of ships, and quite as flexible. They
constitute quite a feature of Brazilian forests, and are used
throughout the country as ligatures in buildings, in fences, and
a thousand other purposes. They are known as the " nails of
Brazil." A story is current that the Jesuits sought to obtain
from the crown of Portugal a monopoly in them, and that the
monarch was no little surprised to hear that the Indians used
pregos, which he supposed were like those of Europe, made of
iron.
Emerging from the woods, we met a mounted party, a lady,




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                    369
four gentlemen, and a monk, whose wide and white felt hat, cassock, scapulary, and bare legs gave a piquant feature to the
group.  They were members of the Araujo family, to one of
whose fazendas we were traveling; one named after the stream
on which it is located, Rio das Pedras.  Its sugar product
this season is estimated at two thousand moulds of eighty
pounds each. Here we found a water-wheel forty feet in diameter and only three wide; also another species, common in
the Middle Ages: from a vertical or inclined shaft spokes radiate, and have their extremities formed into spoons. Water
brought down a deep descent in a close tube is directed against
these, and by its impulse drives them round.
Belidor figures and describes similar wheels used for driving
grist-mills in Provence and I)Dauphiny in his time, but they are
met with in authors centuries before he wrote.  Thus Dante:
"Never ran water with such hurrying pace
Adown the tube to turn a land-mill's wheel,
When nearest it approaches to the spokes,
As then along that edge my master ran." —Hell, canto 23.
Brick and tiles are made on this estate in large quantities.
Under a shed were young and middle-aged negras, naked save
a piece of skirt tied on, and some with infants slung at their
backs, bending over benches and pressing the clay into moulds,
their arms and legs covered and their faces marked with it.
Chigres swarmed on the hot sand; they ran up our legs and
walking-sticks. Black and small as dots of the letter i on this
page, they quickly burrow under the skin. There is not a
slave but has more or less in his feet.  When not extracted
within two days, each forms a bag and fills it with eggs. Even
then little inconvenience is felt; but care is taken to extract the
tough sack (about the size of a small pea) before its living contents are ready to burst forth. An old slave is charged on every
plantation with this duty.
After leaving the " Collegio," another splendid estate belonging to the same wealthy owners, we came up with three troops
of muleteers, who had unloaded their beasts and encamped for
the night. Each had formed with their hampers and bags three
sides of a quadrangle, within which some were lounging, while
others were kindling a fire in front. Their animals, not less
A A




370                 SKETCHES OF
than a hundred, were grazing close by. The whole was vividly
illustrative of scenes in Spanish life, and of incidents in Don
Quixote.
We had to ride through several large sheets of water. In the
middle of one, a negro stood quenching his thirst by using both
hands as a cup. We knelt on our saddles when crossing the
river "Embohy," and forded another deep stream like so many
praying equestrians. At length we arrived at the Macacu estate of the Carmelite monks of the Lapa Church in Rio. A
league square of fine land, it was willed to them by an old
planter in exchange for an apanage they promised him in
heaven. Mandioca, rice, and beans alone are cultivated, but
none for sale. The greater part is consumed on the place, the
balance by the fathers in the city. Of the slaves, excluding
children, only six are men; the rest, some fifty odd, are women. The owners find it more profitable to raise negroes than
coffee, or aught else. The lads, at a certain age, are sent to the
city and bound out to trades, by which "twice as much is
made out of them as if they were employed on the soil."
The manager is a slave; he led us into a barn, with mud floor
and walls, in which thirty women and children were huddled
around a pile of mandioca tubers, which they were scraping,
while others washed them. Such distorted, mutilated, hard,
and horny fingers as many of these women had, I never saw.
Like the hands of some slaves, they seemed losing their human
characteristics.
All were comfortably and uniformly clothed-black skirts
and a species of short and dark-blue cloak. I believe the latter, as well as the prohibition of shoes, iron collars, flogging men
with leather thongs, and women with ferules, is derived from
the ancient policy respecting slaves. Those of the Gauls and
Romans wore blue. Beggars wore the same, and were thence
named " Blue-gowns."
17th. A Paulista called on his way home. He passed by a
week ago with two hundred mules, young and mostly unbroken,
which he has sold at prices varying from fifteen to twenty dollars. He returns in December with another drove. These animals cost planters nothing to keep. Turned into the woods,
they are caught when wanted, and that is chiefly in the sugar




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                    371
season. Here are no stables in which to house them; neither
hay nor oats are grown for them, and no blacksmith's bill to
pay for shoeing them.
CHAPTER XXXIV.
lMacacu.-A large Tree.-Its Form, Dimensions, and extraordinary Roots.-Why
so few old Trees.-Vegetable Origin of Forms and Ornaments. —Singular Forms
of Boles.-Natural Moulding. —The Sloth-tree and Sloth.-Fabrication of Farinha.-Cultivation of the Plant.-Grating and pressing the Pulp.-The Tipiti.
-Musical Wagons.-Rats keeping Carnival.-Return to the City.
June 18. 3Ianoel, a Portuguese employed on the estate, while
descanting on gunning and game, mentioned a tree that he had
often passed in his hunts, whose bole would require sixteen men
with outstretched arms to encircle it. Senhor J - had heard
of it in his father's lifetime, but had never visited it, although
located within two or three miles of the house. The spot
where its highest branches mingle with others half way up the
mountain is seen from the door. Alleged difficulties of the ascent, and passage through jungles and gulleys, rather whetted
than blunted the desire to see it, and a party was arranged to
start at seven this morning. As we were moving, two sportsmen came up and joined us, with three more uncouth-looking
tailless hounds, whose barking, quoth Manoel, will scare off every monkey —his favorite game. He was right, for not one
was seen.
Reaching the base of the forest acclivity, we began to climb
by grasping hold of creepers, shoots, and saplings, pulling ourselves up, and stopping every few yards to breathe, while leaning against the upper sides of the trees. The slaves were with
us, and barefooted of course, liable, as I supposed, to be stung
every moment by poisonous reptiles; but two gentlemen threw
off their shoes and boots, and scaled their way over the slippery
leaves in their stocking-feet. Another left hat, jacket, shoes,
and stockings below, and spent the day with gun in hand without them. All my fear of snakes and scorpions was gone.
Three of us pushed ahead and reached a level spot, on which
we were glad to rest, although it scarcely afforded room. The
hunters were below; their shouts, baying of dogs, and reports




372                  SKETCHES OF
of guns kept reverberating through the otherwise silent woods,
frightening pacas and armadillos to their holes, of which we
passed several, and scaring away birds, among which toucans
were the largest we saw. The first thing observable in getting
into the forest is the absence of the sun. While glowing in
brightness without, twilight reigns within. Not a beam reached
the ground through the intercepting foliage, which, spreading at
great elevations, forms a perfect and perpetual screen. As the
brilliance of the solar rays is supposed to diminish in intensity as they travel onward, so we have experienced a diminution
of light in coming thus jar, and have attained a degree that possibly resembles morning on Herschel and noon on Neptune.
The trees are straight, rising from sixty to one hundred feet,
and void of branches two thirds up.  Their average thickness
is under two feet; some occur of three, four, and even five feet,
but thousands do not exceed fifteen inches.  Large and small
grow some six or seven feet apart, and the open spaces are, on
the whole, free from scrub or brushwood. Occasionally the
slaves had to cut the way for us. The most novel feature to
me was the vegetable cordage hanging down from the topmost
branches, often numerous and various as the ropes and rigging
of a frigate.  These sipos are not parasitic; their roots are in
the soil, whence they run up the highest poles, descend like
plumb-lines where nothing intervenes, run along the ground
for hundreds of feet, and rise and drop again. At one place a
four-inch sipo-a cable-formed a natural swing, which most
of us used. It reached within four feet of the ground, while the
upper ends were lost to sight, after rising eighty feet perpendicularly. Monkeys are said to be as fond as children of the exercise.
But for creepers, and trees to hold on and rest by, there would
be no scaling these mountains.  The angle of our ascent was
not less than 45~, while the leaves, thick on the ground, exceedingly embarrassed us. When the foot did not slip over
them, they slid down under it. After a short rest, we started
again, passing huge rocks, that might have come down from
above before the epoch of vegetation began.  Our pioneers
cleared the way into a gorge, where fresh trails and beaten
tracks of pacas crossed and recrossed. Passing over a gulley,




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   373
whose depth was concealed, we mounted again, and the mammoth tree rose up before us.  Is that it? all shouted.  " Si,
senhors," quoth Manoel. We were disappointed. It was a noble one, but not near the smallest size he had named. Streaming with perspiration, and panting like overdriven cattle, the first
thing was to find seats. While one was flashing some powder
to light cigars, the cry or whistle of a sloth was heard, and
away went guns and gunners.
The bole was straight, tapered very slowly, rose nearly a
hundred feet, and there divided into three diverging branches,
the parents of numerous others. We passed a sipo cord round
three feet above the ground, and found its circumference twentyseven feet; close to it, thirty-two. This was at the upper side,
where the cord, though then close to the ground, was ten feet
above it at the lowest side. On approaching from below, the
spreading base at the right merges into a line of rocks extending twenty feet or more, and then sinks out of sight; their faces
were upright, smooth, and of unequal elevation, from three to
ten feet; their upper surfaces, shelving off, disappeared in the
sides of the mount. On drawing near, with hatchets in hand,
lo! this apparent wall of granite turned out wood / —the continuation of the base of the shaft. At the left, the slope of the
mountain, or the changes it had undergone, had not required
the development of such an extraordinary buttress to insure stability to the ponderous and stately trunk. For a hundred feet
on either hand, and also above it, long stretches of roots appeared here and there above the surface-one three feet in diameter, and several two feet!
This sylvan Goliah was a jequetiba, the Indian medicinetree. The bark is kept on sale by the druggists; the wood is
easy to work, reminding one of whitewood, which it resembles.
Interposing objects were cut away till we had a clear view of
it, and two sketches were taken from different points. The
branches are remarkably angular, and abruptly change their direction almost every foot; the leaves are small, and the foliage
limited. Where the branches start from the trunk, scarlet parasites were flourishing, and there came down a sipo thick as my
arm, that hung loosely within six inches of the tree, as if let
down to plumb it. No better means of rising into the upper




374                  SKETCHES OF
regions could be required by young sailors than these " monkey-ladders."
The age of this majestic column could not be ascertained. I
thought at first it was in its prime, but that period had long
passed-probably before Cabral came in sight of the coast.
Three feet above the ground there appeared a circular hole, four
inches in diameter, with edges handsomely rounded. I pushed
in the end of a rod seven feet before it was stopped at the opposite side. The bole was a mere shell or tube, standing on a
capacious chamber, whose front wall faced us below.
The thought may occur to others as it occurred to me: How
is it that, in primitive forests, so few very large trees are
found? Ought not a majority, at least, to be as venerable for
age and dimensions as this? A brief reflection answers no, and
with it reason as well as fact coincides. This one has outlived
the usual age; its compeers, that rose with it, are gone, and
left it to linger in the midst of a strange generation. A virgin
forest has never been found stocked with old trees, any more
than a nation with ancient men. Both spring up, mature, decline, and give place to their offspring, because in that way only
could either be perpetuated. Forest giants are, therefore, like
human Anaks, exceptions to a beneficent law that limits their
stature and bulk, like the one which restricts those of men.
Before reaching and after leaving this tree, we were environed by striking proofs that the cardinal forms and ornaments of
architects, joiners, and carvers were derived from Nature's carpentry. I do not say she elaborates her materials into finished
mouldings, columns, and capitals. It would have been no advantage to her apprentice-man if she had, since her mission is
not to anticipate his efforts, but to awaken and direct them.
Hence, like a wise teacher, she suggests ideas, and incites him
to work them out. Architectural contours and embellishments
revealed to David for the temple, and patterns shown to Moses
in the mount, are still found on Oriental hills, and abound in
every forest here-,, pillars and chapiters," " lily-work," "network," "wreaths of flowers," "pomegranates," "palm-trees,"
and " almonds," &c. Plain round columns occur in trees in all
countries, but here are twisted, wreathed, fluted, and clustered
or Gothic types.




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                    375
At one spot I rested against a bole nearly two feet in diameter, about which a four-inch sipo was wound, from bottom to
top, as regular as if carved on the straight shaft by art. Grown
together, both appeared of one substance. A still finer example occurred on our way down, but I could not stop to examine
and sketch it. On another bole, a couple of sipos gave more
than a hint of the double spiral, and in one case they were coiled so closely as to conceal the trunk entirely, exhibiting the
peculiarity of another artistic shaft.
HIere are an outline and section of a fluted or Gothic shaft.
Its expression partakes of, and would, had they
not been known, suggest both.  Over three feet
thick, its upper part expands into a capital regular as the base, thus showing us how the early
builders were taught to combine elegance of forms
with fitness for enlarged support. Like a word
to the wise, the merest glance at such an object
sufficed.  In the twinkling of an eye the idea and. its application were realized.  The flutes were not
of one thickness, but the difference was not great; few were less
than four inches, and all were straight, round, and smooth.
This tree belongs to a numerous family, but so far excelled in
regularity other members we fell in with, that I begged the party
to hold on a few minutes near it.
I had previously caused some delay at a stately one, four feet
over, whose section, three feet above the ground,:~ ~     g is figured at a in the margin.  By some law, the
codhan, as the class is named, is prohibited from
accumulating its substance into cylindrical or conical trunks, but models it into a system  of radiating planks more or less developed, thus extending the fluted
and Gothic features into other varieties. In another tree, the
distance between two adjoining plates was six, and their depth
five feet, leaving a space in which five men could stand.  Here,
thought I, are planks actually growing.  The tree had hardly
any centre.
In rose-wood the feature exists in a modified form. A very
fine tree stood near where we dined, its upper branches waving
from seventy to eighty feet above our heads; a shows a section




3)76                 SKETCHES OF
six feet from the ground, the extreme diameter five.  The same form continued
some forty feet, when the trunk gave birth
to two perpendicular stems, from which
spring all above them. On account of
breaks ald twists in the radiating slabs, a good-sized plank
could hardly be got out of them.
I add the section of another tree near which we happened to
halt.  It was neither a jacaranda nor
a codhan. It took forty feet of withe
to go round it. This trunk is a very
high one, and preserved the same
strange form most of the way up.
It was apparently in its prime; nothing like decay to be seen about it.
HIere were dwarf and other cocoas, that present almost perfect
columns, and one species with successive swellings at the upper
parts reminded one of Hindoo and other Oriental architectural
characteristics.
But none of these surprised me more agreeably than a nearly
full-developed moulding. It was on a fallen stem upon which
some of us sat a while to rest.  A & inch sipo had coiled itself
three times round, and then, turning away, disappeared in the distance.  The part in contact with
the stem was flattened, and in yielding to that shape the displaced substance was pushed out at either
hand into fillets, as in the figure.
Where the sipo took its departure,
at a, the flat part continued a little
way, and then the half circular
boundary swelled again into the
circular.  The fillets vanished earlier.  It was clear that the evolution of the fillets was due to
the compressure (perhaps by shrinking) of the soft sipo upon the
hard and unyielding surface of the larger body; for it approached as a cord, and left as one. As the coils tightened, a lateral
direction was imparted to the fibres. No fact is more obvious




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                  377
than that vegetation here obeys the slightest impulses, and is
ready to run into all sorts of forms. Its plasticity is such that
it only wants moulds to produce planks, busts, and statues. In
one convolution a single fillet only was produced, and in the
others the angles were not wrought out sharp. But what then?
A blind man could not fail to recognize in them the astragal
and popular mouldings. Other, and probably much better, examples are to be met with in the forests.
In numerous instances the vegetable ropes united with each
other, where circumstances had thrown them in contact; thus
branches became soldered at every angle.  Frequently the
rope is divided into five or six strands for a foot or two, and
then the whole unite in a single one. But besides these round
sipos, here is another species, which at first I took for long
stretches of collapsed leather hose. Some were singularly impressed with indentations at regular intervals, and corresponding elevations on
the opposite side. There was another
variety, unembossed, and bent as at c.
The sipos proper present themselves also
in long spiral stretches, exhibiting and
diversifying a similar feature in our vinetendrils.
The descent of the mountain was even more laborious than
climbing it. More care and activity were required.  In the latter a stick was useful, but on going down essential, to prevent
one falling headlong. But for the trees and shrubbery there
could be no descending, for no one could keep his feet. Once
started, the momentum of the body could not be controlled till
thrown down, and with the force of a cannon ball. Althougli
trees of one kind or other occurred every six or seven feet, if
we missed bringing up at every one in our way-if we passed
over ten feet or twelve without stopping, we brought up with
a terrible squelch against the next. I perspired quite as much
in coming down as in going up. With specimens of sipos, rods
for walking-sticks, and medicinal bark from the jiquetiba, we
arrived with the hunters at home by 5 P.M., well pleased, though
tired with the trip.
The general aspect of a Brazilian forest is brownish rather




378                   SKETCHES OF
than bright green. The trees cast their leaves all the year
round.
The imbaiba, or "sloth-tree," is among the picturesque. The
bole is straight, smooth, and bare of branches except at the top.
The leaves are large and pentagonous, which, with young shoots,
are the animal's favorite food. It resembles the mamao-tree,
for which I often mistook it. It varies in diameter from nine
inches to two feet, and rises from twenty to forty. The flesh
of the sloth is sweetish, and, to persons unused to it, sickly.
When one is within reach of a pole, it will slowly take hold,
and is often thus captured, and borne off on the shoulders of the
hunter. A more harmless creature can not be imagined —a hiss
and a grin are its only weapons. Its face is the index of helpless old age.
A person with a low frontal region is said to have the forehead of a preguiga.  Sloths have little or no forehead.
It is remarkable that the two species most allied to man, and
with attributes so diverse-the most active and inert, the most
harmless and mischievous - should thus be found together.
But, in fact, all things are relieved by comparison and contrast,
whether properties of matter, qualities of mind, or the influences
of morals. Of minerals, plants, and animals, one class parodies
another, while the living genus which approaches nearest to the
human form exhibits it in the lowest stages of brutalization.
What apes are to men, demons are to angels —distorted, degenerate, mischievous caricatures, and then the devil himself is the
ape or imitator of God-" 0 demonio em tudo pretende ser simia
de Deos."
I shall here insert the substance of my notes and observations on the fabrication of farinha. This word is Portuguese
for flour or meal, but when used without any qualifying noun,
is universally understood as designating that of mandioca. The
procedure is one throughout the country, and substantially the
same as was and is practiced by the aborigines. This root is,
next to the potato, the greatest of the red man's gifts to his
white brother, and one reflecting no small credit on the donor,
inasmuch as it would have been valueless had it not been accompanied with information on its culture and conversion into
bread. Naturally fatal to life, it has, by primitive researches,




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                     379
been rendered innoxious and nutritious. But for this early and
invaluable discovery, the farinha of South America and cassava
of the West Indies might not, and probably would not, have
been known to this day. When, by whom, and under what
circumstances it was made, can now never be known, albeit
there was picked up by the early settlers a tradition of a venerable stranger, draped in white, and with a flowing beard-another Manco Capac —teaching the people the use of fire, to clothe
themselves, and dwell in houses (neither of which they yet do),
and the cultivation and preparation of mnandioca.
A field of ripe mandioca looks like a nursery of hazels.  The
stem of each plant is isolated, and has only a few palmated
leaves at top. A bud, or projecting nucleus of a sprout, occurs
at nearly every inch on the otherwise naked stem, the length of
which is from six to seven feet, and an inch thick at the base.
When a field is reaped, the stems are chopped into pieces three,
or at most four inches long. These are planted, and quickly
take root, sending forth shoots from the buds, and in two years
mature a new crop. The tubers yielded by each stem average
five in number, the largest six to seven inches long, and four
thick; the shape irregular, and in substance resembling the
parsnip. After being scraped and rinsed, they are prepared for
the "mill."  Of the same plan and dimensions every where,
this machine is nothing more than a revolving grater. Imagine a small carriage-wheel, three feet in diameter, mounted on
an axle, one end of which is bent into a crank handle. Instead of iron tire, a strip of sheet brass, four inches wide, and
punched full of holes, is nailed on the felloes, the rough side
outward. One slave turns it, while another pushes a single
root at a time against it. When the part left in the hand becomes too small to be held steadily, a fresh root is used to press
it forward till it is wholly ground up.*
The pulp is put into bags of hair or cloth, and subjected to a
press. The pressed matter, resembling cheese-cake in consistence, is rubbed through a coarse sieve, and thrown into shallow
copper pans moderately heated, and stirred up for a few minutes,
* This rasping-mill is identical with the one used over two hundred years ago,
as appears from Piso's History of Brazil, in Latin. Amster., 1648. At page 53 is
a figure of the machine that might serve for every one now used in the country.




380                 SKETCHES OF
when its manufacture is completed. It is now not unlike Indian-meal or oat-meal.  Thus in half an hour the root is converted into what is every where known as " the bread of Brazil."
The poisonous expressed juice is not immediately thrown
away. Received into vessels, a beautiful white precipitate collects at the bottom.  Senhor J  -, plunging his hand in a
tub, brought up a specimen.  "That," said he, "when dried,
is tapioca."
Such is the white man's mode of preparing farinha.  The
rasp of the aborigines consists of a board, say a foot or fifteen,
inches wide, and two feet long. One face is smeared over with
a thick coating of gum-a natural glue that hardens like stone,
and in it is inserted, often in regular and fancy figures, a multitude of sharp particles of granite, selected from pieces broken up
for the purpose. On this board each root, after being washed
and the skin scraped off, is reduced to pulp by rubbing it to and
fro over the teeth. When the desired quantity is rasped down,
the next thing is to compress it in order to get rid of the water,
and after it is expelled, the mass is laid on a heated stone griddle and stirred till dry.
The press possesses more interest. Imagine a coarse, basket-like tube, made of split cane (the slips thin, three fourths of
an inch wide, and rather loosely plaited or interwoven). A common size is five feet in length, five or six inches diameter at the
mouth or open end, and three or four at the bottom or closed
one. A large loop or a couple of strong withes is left at each
end. When used, the first thing is to wet it, if dry. The operator then grasps the edges of the mouth with both hands, and,
resting the bottom on the ground, throws the weight of his body
on the basket till he has crushed it down to about half its previous height; the lower parts, meanwhile, swell out in diameter
larger than the mouth. A smooth stick, like one of our broomhandles, is now introduced, held upright in the middle, and the
pulp put in and packed round it till the tube is nearly filled.
It is next suspended by the upper loop from a hook, or the
limb of a tree, and a heavy stone or basket of stones fastened to
the bottom loop, so that the weight may gradually stretch the
tube till it becomes six or seven feet in length; the internal




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   381
capacity diminishzng with the extension, and the contracting
sides powerfully forcing the pulp against the unyielding central
stick, and consequently driving out the liquid.  Instead of
stones, one end of a heavy log is sometimes inserted through the
lower loop, and loaded with a papoose or two, or any thing else
at hand. Indians, again, will put one foot or both in the loop,
as in a stirrup, and serve themselves as the weights.
Such is the original mandioca or cassava press.  It was as
common among the Caribs of the islands as it was and is with
Indians on the Oronoco and Amazon, and throughout the immense regions between those rivers and the Plata. In Brazil
there are those who prefer it to the massive and clumsy screwpress imported from Lisbon and Malaga at a cost of $200 to
$300 each. I purchased one at a venda for 16 cents, of the dimensions given above, and for it the Indian manufacturer probably received only three or four, certainly not over five or six.
The carboclos, or tamed Indians, supply the venders or country stores with it in all the provinces.
This basket-press is the tepiti, and if there is a current primitive invention evincing closer and happier reasoning out of
common tracks, and which exhibits neater and cheaper results,
we do not know where to look for it.
The wagons and oxen are not without interest. The former
are Portuguese, Spanish, medieval, and classical. Their construction is the same as those made by Grecian and Roman
wheelwrights.  The axle-tree is invariably fastened to the
wheels, and consequently turns with them.  The latter are
made of two, sometimes three thick slabs, commonly five feet
in diameter, four inches thick at the periphery, and between
seven and nine at the centre, where they receive the squared
and tapered ends of the axle. Two journals are formed on the
axle just within the wheels, by making six or eight inches of
the timber round and smooth, to receive two forked pieces, or
inverted plummet-blocks of hard wood, secured to the bottom or
under side of the wagon body. The axles are generally of rosewood. But the most singular feature of these carriages is, they
are all musical, giving out an incessant moaning, more or less
soft or sharp, and broken by every jolt or depression in the road.
This arises from the friction of the forked piece on the journals;




382                  SKETCHES OF
it is modified but not destroyed by grease, nor is the noise unpleasant. There is no saw-filing, teeth-drilling, or flesh-creeping power in it.
For a full half hour, as we trotted along yesterday, the sounds
of music far ahead came on us, swelling and subsiding as hills
and valleys intervened, now like the humming of bees, and
anon sharpened like the singing of musquitoes at one's ears.
As we passed on, the tones might be compared to a score of
iEolian harps-soft, clear, and continuous.  At length we overtook the instruments and musicians-twelve wagons, laden with
cane, on their way to the Engenho. Every one had a tone of
its own, and the mingling of the whole was not ungrateful. To
the animals in the shafts it is said to be as delightful as to the
drivers.  Cervantes, the most graphic portrayer of Spanish life,
throws Sancho into a swoon of fear by the creaking of the same
kind of wagon in the dark. The oxen frequently seen in these
wagons, both in the city and country, are such as would make
glad the hearts of our farmers.  Allied to the buffalo of India,
nobler-looking creatures are not to be found.
ii
19th. Last night the rats kept carnival as usual.  Leaping
on and off the beds and altar-table, their fall on the floor sound



LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   383
ed like that of so many cats. They smelled and pulled at our
shoes and garments, and squealed and scampered as if they
were the very imps of mischief. Repeatedly I sprang up with
horror as they were tugging at my clothes. H1-  was snoring before I had finished some writing, and, as this was the
last night of our stay, I determined to reward him for his indifference to the intensity of my sufferings. Instead of putting
the extinguished light outside of the door on retiring, I placed
it on his bed, and quickly covered myself up in my own. A
minute, and our familiars, who had been waiting till the light
was out, were rushing through defiles behind the plaster; a
twinkling more, and a score were on his coverlet, quarreling
over the tallow. A violent splutter, a round oath in Portuguese, and a convulsive shake sent rats, candle, his own clothes,
and those belonging to the bed into the air.
At 5 A.M., H, M, and I took leave of our kind
hosts, by ten reached Sampaio, and were soon after steaming
down the muddy Macacu.  3Millions of handsome tufts, on
stems of three to five feet, like palm-trees in miniature, border
the river and occupy the swamps. This graceful weed is known
among the aborigines as the piripiri. HII    says he has met
with it in most of the provinces. When we were about forty
miles from the Organ Mountains they did not appear to be one
fourth of the distance. By four we landed at the city. The
captain, much to his satisfaction, succeeded in mortally wounding some harmless gulls; two splendid white cranes will not,
however, rise in judgment against him, for he missed them.




384                    SKETCHES OF
CITAPTER XXXV.
Apollonia and Carasco.-Divinations.-Beatified Galens.-The Mizericordia.Meeting of Isabel and Mary.-The Chapel.-Emperor. —Foundlings. —Isabel
the Representative of a Pagan Goddess.-Manual and tibial Worship.-Fourth
of July.-Lame leading the Blind.-British Chapel, Preacher, and Prayer-Book.
-Nictherohy.-Fine Estate and its small Cost.-A Paca.-The Nuncio denounced.-Lost Image.-Shrine in a Brothel.-Legislation invoked. -Theatrical
and sacerdotal Exhibitions.
June 22. Yesterday was the feast of Apollonia, the great
dentista of the faithful.  I might as well have attended, had it'been only to learn the invocation, which the most waggish of
clerical bachelors ordered an acquaintance of the reader to repeat in behalf of her master, and the fitness of which she presumed to question.
" The prayer of Saint Apollonia, say you? That might do
something if my master's distemper lay in his gums, but, alas!
it is in his brains."
" I know what I say, Mistress Housekeeper," quoth Carasco.  "You go home and prepare me something warm for breakfast, and don't stand disputing with me, a bachelor of Salamanca, for there is no bachelorizing beyond that."
The conjuring season has opened.  Booksellers advertise
Th/e D)iviner of the Future, containing 1600 Sortes; The
Lady's Oracle, with infallible modes of ascertaining the future;
The New Sibyl, proper to be consulted on the nights of St.
John, Peter, Anthony, and many others. The unmarried, I
am  told, apply to John, because he was a bachelor.  Peter
was married, and to him those who have lost their mates look
for fresh ones.
24th. This is the day when the sun comes leaping and laughing up the horizon, instead of his wonted snail-like pace. Public business is suspended. I observed parties practicing divination after an old custom: they threw dice, and then turned to
figures on a card corresponding with the numbers thrown. A
lady neighbor went at twelve o'clock last night to the Cattete
Brook to ascertain if she would live another year. Her shadow
was doubled in the stream, and she will live two.




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   385
25th. The anniversary of "San Tude, advogado contra a
tosse."  Tude and Braz hold much the same rank in sacred
therapeutics as Blase once held in England. He was a great
friend to asthmatic people, and famous for removing obstructions from the windpipe. His fee was a couple of tapers, and
even they "were good for the tooth-ache and diseased cattle."
Of other beatified Galens, St. Servulo cures paralysis, and Liborio removes stones from the bladder —dor de pedra.  St.
Miguel dos Santos eradicates, without caustics, cancers and tumors, and St. Rita cures incurable complaints. The surpassing bull, that this lady makes impossible things possible, is seriously accepted by many; hence a pilgrimage to her shrine is
the very thing for projectors, squarers of circles (I was introduced to one), inventors of perpetual motions, and compounders of universal panaceas.
29th. The coldest day. Thermometer at 6 A.M. 680, from
which it did not vary one degree to 8 P.M.
The Santa Casa da Mizericordia dates from 1582, and is as
noble an institution of the kind as any people can boast of-a
specimen of genuine catholicity, unstained and untrammeled
with qualifying adjectives. Its blessings, like those descending
from above, are showered alike on every age, sex, creed, and
condition; on bond and free, foreigners and natives.  It is also
an asylum for foundlings. The boys are provided for at BotoFogo, and at a certain age are put out to trades; the girls reside
in the city establishment, and are taught to read, write, sew,
etc. At each anniversary, bachelors in want of wives often find
partners for life. When two agree to be united, the managers
inquire into the character and prospects of the man, and, if all
is satisfactory, the marriage takes place, when a dowry of 400
milreis is given from the funds of the institution.
Having heard much about the daily exposure of infants, and
facilities afforded those who drop them to escape unnoticed, I
concluded to walk over to the place of reception. This, till recently, was at the Hospital, but is now in a thinly-occupied
street, to the scandal of the Holy Mother of Nuns, after whom
it is named. The device for receiving the infants is an upright
hollow cylinder, revolving on pivots.  One third of the side is
removed to give access to the inside, and the bottom is covered
BB




386                 SKETCHES OF
with a mattress. As the width of the opening is less than the
-':~-[...........:t  thickness of the wall, it:~;~~H                         is impossible for those
on one side to see
through into the other.
I walked the entire
i; llJli.ii  ~    ~       ~length of Rua Santa.Il~l                       Tereza without per-!,',                          ceiving any thing of
---- lthe kind; but on reiturning, a board, only
a few inches square,
over the closed door
of an ordinary-looking
building, caught my
da  attention. The inscripwayin  i Street, anattion was decisive, Extge to tpaostos da tfzea, No.
30." While reading it,
corroborative sounds
came forth. The only
window  in front was,Ij7/d    -, _....near the door, and was,... -      ~~~in fact, the receptacle.
What I had taken, on first passing, for a green inside shutter,
I now saw was slightly curved. I touched it, found it turned
readily, and the opening came in view, when a bell connectd
to it within sounded violently! For a moment I hesitatedFut,
when the inmates of a house opposite raised their lattices to see
who was dropping a foundling in the daytime, I beat a quick
retreat.
The 2d of July is the anniversary, when an interesting interview takes place between two church ladies. "Who is Isabel?" repeated E, in replying to my inquiry; "why, she
is the mother of St. John and the protectress of hospitals. Today is THE VISITATION. Our Lady will leave her home in the
Carmo Church to visit her cousin, but Isabel will meet her half
way in Dereita Street, and after embracing, they will proceed
together to the Mizericordia.  The apartments of the female




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   387
foundlings will be opened to the public, young men will attend
to select wives, the emperor and court will be present. You
had better go."
The procession is advertised for half past nine A.M. Allowing half an hour for the walk, we can reach the place by tenand here, at the House of Mercy, we are. The Largo in front
is covered with leaves, a regiment of the line is drawn up and
its fine band playing, but the preparations are not finished, for
workmen are busy hanging tapestries from the upper windows.
The troops are an assemblage of the three marked varieties of
our race, black, red, and white skins, with every shade from Indian-ink to chocolate, and from cinnamon to chalk. One of the
officers is very pale and wan. Spectators begin to assemble;
among them flocks of ladies, plump as partridges, with their
heads dressed as for fancy balls, and no covering on their bosoms but amulets and jewelry.
The Carmo is one fourth of a mile off. Suppose, instead of
standing here, we turn in that direction, and see what the friends
of Our Lady are doing. We go, and meet her as she issues
from her sanctuary. The procession is headed by three men
abreast, the middle one bearing on a stave a cross, and each
of his companions an artificial bouquet surmounted with a
burning candle. The Carmelites, in cream-colored copes, follow with lighted tapers. Priests, monks, and chanting functionaries, a goodly number, come next, some in white and
some in black sutains; several wear scarlet stockings, and not
a few have cambric tippets. The next official is a Thurifer,
swinging his censer.  Behind him, and last of all, comes the
lady, leaning on the arm of a bishop, whose conical mitre is
decked with rubies, or stones resembling them.
There! they're past, but how's this? Not fifty spectators
following, and hardly a dozen decent-looking persons among
them! Business people are obviously getting tired of such
things, and often, as in this case, pay little attention to them.
I hesitated about joining the shabby escort, but a wish to view
the affair minutely induced me to raise my hat and fall in immediately behind the lady. After passing the distance of a
couple of blocks, I would have given a dollar to have got decently out of the business, for we were all brought to a dead




388                 SKETCHES OF
stand by the bishop. Stopping as deliberately as if he had
been in his private chamber, he handed the lady to one of his
associates, slowly drew forth a handkerchief, and blew his nose
secundum artemr.  Full a minute elapsed ere he resumed his
sacred charge, and we moved on again. It has been suggested
that this delay was possibly intended to give time for Isabel
and her friends to come up, that the meeting might take place
in a convenient part of the street.
Continuing along, music at length was heard, and presently
a banner, a cross, and a crowd were seen approaching-Isabel
and her servants. She had heard of her cousin being on the
way, and came thus far to meet her. (I quote popular language
on the subject.) There she is; and see! both ladies fly into
each other's arms, and remain locked together for nearly a minute. Now they draw back, gaze a moment on each other's
faces, and Isabel once more throws herself on her kinswoman's
neck, Our Lady meekly receiving the caresses.  The patroness
of the hospital recovers herself, goes to the left of her guest, a
little in advance, and with open hands invites her onward. Thus
they procceeded, Isabel turning every few yards to repeat the
graceful welcome. As soon as we arrived at the Largo, the
troops presented arms to the cousins, the band struck up a lively
THE MEETING OF OUR LADY AND ISABEL.




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   389
tune, and the clapper of the chapel bell rattled most lustily.
People thronged to salute the saints until they got inside.
After resting a little, Isabel is to conduct her visitor through
the wards of the sick and convalescent, and introduce her to
the foundlings.  While thus engaged we can minute down
their appearance.  The contrast of their dresses with those of
their attendants must have struck every stranger like myself.
Their gowns were neither new nor newly washed: originally
straw-colored, age had dyed them brown, scattered specks of
gold flitted about the skirts, relics of rich flounces, made matters worse. It seemed unaccountable, where public reverence was to be excited, how the managers could allow them to
appear in drapery so unbecoming. The feeling elicited was exceedingly disagreeable, and even rendered still more so by their
soiled-decidedly soiled arms, necks, and faces. Had they been
ragged street-girls, picked up for an emergency, less attention
could not have been expended on their persons and attire. To
be sure, they were low in stature, and little folks are apt to be
neglected, especially when dumb. Neither exceeded twentyfive inches. The bishop bore his charge reclining on his arm,
as an image-boy carries a plaster statue in our streets, and
when she was about to meet her cousin, he raised her upright,
like a soldier presenting arms, and held her by the ankles till
Isabel came up. Both were then inclined till their faces met,
and they had taken a long embrace. While they were in contact their bearers brought their own faces nearly to touch, and,
speaking for their wooden ladies in an under-tone, exchanged
salutations for them. The bishop spoke first: he stammered
and smiled, and when he got through, the other, a hard-featured
man, with no ornament on his head but his tonsure, replied in
behalf of Isabel, and finished by causing her to make a low
obeisance to her visitor.
I now entered the chapel between guards with fixed bayonets. Large as some churches, it has four subsidiary shrines.
After trying in vain to recognize the presiding deities, I turned
to go out, but lo! all exit was prevented by transverse rows,
deep and wide, of kneeling ladies-a phalanx there was no
breaking through.  I therefore retreated, with others, into the
vestry, where halberdiers were waiting for the emperor. He




390                 SKETCHES OF
shortly made his appearance, passed through, and took a seat
in a pew near the high altar. He was in plain dress, except
a blue coat with epaulets large enough for Goliah's shoulders.
The empress, in black, sat by him, and her ladies behind them.
One of the managers read the annual report, and then mass began, at which the young ruler was perfectly at home, anticipating every kneeling and rising movement, and crossing himself
with marvelous rapidity: he was through the operation before
members of the cabinet near him were half through.
Twice a priest came from the altar with the Missal for him
and his spouse to kiss; they buried for a moment their faces in
its leaves. A small gilt case was passed to them for the same
purpose, and then carried up and down a double row of senators and ministers of state, whose lips the priest touched with it;
not, however, till they had received a preparatory purification
from the censer. The services became exceedingly tedious, and
the air so noxious, that every one was weary, and Pedro and
his wife rose to depart. A few boys and women snatched their
hands to kiss, at which they were not a little annoyed, and with
reason, for the empress appeared haggard and ready to faint.
Before mass began the two cousins were brought in, when a
small accident happened to Isabel.  Her bearer was prevented
by the crowd from placing her steadily on her shrine, and she
fell, knocked over a couple of sacred candlesticks, and would
have tumbled with them to the ground had not a gentleman in
front of me caught her.  Upward of one hundred girls, mostly
under twelve years of age, were ranged along the four sides of
a room. They were neatly dressed, and their apartments were
every thing that could be wished. In the school-room were
superior specimens of writing. Applicants for wives must leave
their name and address, that their characters and circumstances
may be ascertained.
The reader need not be told that Isabel is the modern representative of the goddess  lizericordia, to whom Greeks and
Romans dedicated hospitals. In the early adoption of heathen
deities under Christian appellations, the attributes and functions
of that popular deity were assigned to Elizabeth, the mother of
the Baptist.
One word on the performances in the chapel and church




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   391
services generally. I may be prejudiced-most of us are when
out of the circle of influences in which our habits and opinions
have been formed; but this manual, labial, tibial; this sprinkling, smoking, painted, pantomimic worship of the Creator; this
system of externalage and gilded similitudes which sensible
mortals would sicken to be complimented with, does seem out
of character with the present times. In some respects it surpasses in grossness the grossest idolatry. The communion of
North American Indians with the Great Spirit appears more
consistent and refined. True, it was practiced by our forefathers, but that was when they were little better informed than
are modern barbarians.  The images are better carved and
more neatly dressed than those of Fetichism, but the principle
involved in their introduction is the same in both.
However well intentioned the unknown authors of the physical worship of gods and dead men by means of images and
their accessories may have been, and however expedient or justifiable, if either term be admissible, its application to Christianity in darker times, it surely is not necessary now; but national and minor hierarchies never purged themselves: enlightened
only from without, they are ever the last to yield to conviction.
Still, the world in religious matters is advancing; it can not do
otherwise where science is cultivated and Galileos left free to
pursue it; and what is true science but a manifestation of the
Creator in his works, and what are they but "revealed truths,"
which no one can study aright without becoming wiser and better-without feeling his nature rising into higher phases of existence, and his affections throbbing with gratitude to the Parent of the universe for the ceaseless wonders of his beneficence
here displayed?
In the absence of uniformity in human organizations, and in
the influences of climate and climatic productions, religious differences are unavoidable. Races will have congenial rituals,
and homogeneity in them is impossible.  Moreover, on every
subject the sea of thought must be ruffled to prevent a stagnant
and putrescent calm. Even with the soul, action is life, and
with it there can be no action without reaction. Controversial
gales, like material storms, may occasion temporary evils, but
they are prescribed means of attaining enduring good.




392                 SKETCHES OF
4th. The American men-of-war, in gala dress, made the waters of the Bay flash and the air reverberate among the mountains in honor of the day when the world's exodus from thraldom began.
A living picture of the lame leading the blind passed this
morning, in two slaves with baskets of clothes on their heads.
One in advance moved slowly and sorely from elephantiasis;
she had hold of a long horizontal stick, whose other extremity
was grasped by a feeble old man, whom she thus drew along.
5th. Went with T — to the British Chapel.  The lesson
for the day, 1 Sam., xii., was an unlucky one for the reader-a
furious stickler for monarchy, and an upholder of the withering
curses it has heaped on his native land. An Irishman by birth,
he maintains England's right to rule the conquered country as
she pleases; justifies the wholesale confiscation of the soil to the
invaders, from whom he boasts of being descended; denies, with
a slap on the table, that the English Church is a burden to the
Irish people, and with another challenges you to cite an example of a lord, bishop, or vicar distressing a family for tithes, or
removing one to make room for sheep; and by a third thump,
that sets the glasses ringing, proves " it was right if they did."
Half his salary is paid by the British government.  His theme
to-day was "The Love of God."
The prayer-book handed me was one of those issued "by
authority," polluted with royal mandates, enjoining upon its
owner what he is to believe and whom he is to pray for. Besides thirty-nine items of faith prepared for him, reminding him
of forty stripes lacking one administered to old unbelievers, it
contains a creed, accompanied with a profusion of damnatory
clauses, enough to make a savage shudder. It tells every one
who doubts its dicta "without doubt he shall perish everlastingly." I would not stay a week in heaven with the red bigots
that conceived it, or the intriguing ones that perpetuate it.
6th. J — proposed a visit to Nictherohy, and in half an
hour we were skimming the Bay in a four-oared barge.  Like
some state capitals with us, this imperial city is yet a small
one.  After calling on General C~  and chatting a while,
we passed on to the beautiful chateau and grounds of Senhor
P — o, with whom and his amiable family we spent the day.




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                  393
A smart Indian youth waited at table. I understood he was
not considered a slave.
The place belonged to Pedro I., and on his withdrawal to
Europe was purchased by the present proprietor for seven thousand five hundred dollars. Only to think! a handsome mansion, on an eminence commanding one of the finest of earth's
landscapes, a plantation extending half a mile one way and
nearly a mile in another, rich in every tropical treasure, adjacent
to, and, in fact, included in the capital of the province, with all
necessary out-houses, for so small a sum! While wandering
through its teeming fields and forest groves, reclining under its
shady trees (among which were bread-fruit and weeping-willows), quenching one's thirst by overhanging oranges, and a
plum-like, cooling fruit, so plentiful as in some spots to have
dropped from the stems and covered the ground, inhaling the
soft and grateful air, I thought, if any earthly homestead may
be likened to an inheritance in heaven, this one surely might.
On reaching the Bay our boats were in waiting. The men
pulled like heroes, and landed us by moonlight at the Gloria
Beach in an hour and fifteen minutes.
A present of game had arrived from Alagoas-a paca, which,
instead of being consigned to the murderous knife of the cook.
is to accompany me to the States.
9t#. Bedini has been to Pedropolis, where he has caused no
small trouble. The colonists are mostly German Protestants,
and in a sermon he declared that all married Catholics among
them are living in concubinage; that their marriages are void,
and their children illegitimate. A storm of indignation rages
there and has reached here.  The _Diario denounces him in
strong but respectful language, insisting that it is the highest
imprudence thus to kindle the fires of religious intolerance.  It
says, "Propositions like those emitted from the Chair of Truth
by a priest of the character of M. Bedini are eminently censurable." The bishop is invoked to act promptly in the matter, as one that threatens to compromise the interests of Brazil.
10th. An advertisement in to-day's paper reminds one of
Laban's stolen gods. " A black porter disappeared with a bundle intrusted to him in Ajuda Street on the 7th inst., containing three frocks, one shirt, a shawl, and an image of St. John,




394                 SKETCHES OF
having one of the hands broken. If offered for sale, a gratification will be given for the information."
" O devo9ao de Nossa Senhora da Concei9ao erecta na Rua
de S. Pedro, No. 226, tern de fazer sea beneficio no Theatrinho
da Rua Flores, No. 55, Sabbado, 11 do corrente; os administradores do beneficio pedem ao respeitavel publico que queirao honrar comn a sua presen9a: e os cartazes marcarao os divertismentos. Rio de Janeiro, 4 de Julho, de 1846. O Secretario: M.
J. Borges."
In addition to this notice in a morning paper, hand-bills soliciting alms and inviting the respectable public and devout persons to attend at the Theatre, are stuck up on the corners of
streets.  One has a significant mark of some person's opinion
of the establishment it celebrates-a coat of mud. The house
is a brothel, which, from ignorance of its character, the bishop
has licensed to have a shrine in one of its rooms.
A writer in the Jornal calls on the reverend deputies in the'Legislature to bring forward measures for putting an end to the
official connection between religion, churches, and theatres, and
refers to this place. From play-bills he quotes, " A tragedy
for the benefit of N. S. Conceigao in Soap Street, namely, the
much-applauded drama of The Jealous Vizfe, Dance of the
Polka, and the comic farce of The Brother of Souls.  Again,
in the Theatre of Nictherohy, the farce of The Brother of Souls
will be performed for the benefit of souls in Purgatory.  And
recently, in the Theatre San Pedro, in this city, the same was
played in honor of the divine Holy Ghost of Sta. Anna; besides others, equally objectionable, advertised daily. What a
satire on. religion is this! What impudence!"
The union between theatrical and sacerdotal performances is
too intimate to be easily severed. There is a real affinity between them. Take the Capuchins, who, as reformers, are held
to be in advance in spiritual matters, frequently closing their
advertisements with some mystic or moral apophthegm, and how
near do they approach their histrionic brethren. Announcemients of their festival to-morrow rival any play-bill in praising their grand displays of fire-works and martial music, to attract purchasers to their auction, and to exchange money for
small portraits of Veronica.  While ecclesiastics thus compete




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                      395
with lay showmen for public patronage, it is natural for the latter to retaliate where they can; hence the plays and farces in
which the former are satirized. The evening's entertainments
to-morrow at the Tereza Theatre are " the much-applauded drana, in five acts, of THE GRACE OF GOD; after which, a Polka
Dance; to conclude with the Three Women and Three Secrets."
CHAPTER XXXVI.
CJapuchin Attractions: Fireworks, Music, Auction, etc. — The Mint. — Lanternbellows.-Lady of Lampadoza.-Balthazar.-Peter Coelho.-A winged Monk.A dead Christ by a Negro Artist.-Ceara. —How the Emperor was anointed.More Galas.-Conveying Presents. —Interior of a Drawing-room.-Proverbs.The Neckcloth.-Bedini.-British Embassador.-Chamber of Deputies.-Jaunt
to the Gavia.-Inscriptions.-Tailor.-Dead Slave.-Pride and Piggishness.God's Grandmother.-Bedini again.-Lady of Snows.-Birth of a Princess. —A
Wizard's Stock in Trade.
July 12. The Capuchins' great festa comes off to-night. As
it is the last spectacle of the kind I shall have an opportunity
to witness, T-   kindly accompanied me up Castle Hill.
Crowds were climbing up the steep, others hastening down
faster than they wished. As we rose, gusts of music reached
us, and now and then the pinnacle of the little church was seen
flickering behind the glare and curling smoke of bonfires, while
bombs shook the air, and rockets kept rushing into the fastdarkening vault. Arriving at the scene, and borne hither and
thither by the crowds, there was no resisting the excitement.
Two sets of entertainments were going on-within and without. The latter consisted of music, auctioneering, and pyrotechnics. A military band of thirty-two instruments occupied
a stage on one side of the church door, and kept playing, at
short intervals, national and popular airs. On the other side
was the auctioneer's platform, which accommodated a committee
and a small black band-twelve negro musicians, in white jackets and blue caps, who played when the other company-a white
one-was called inside to perform. Having spoken of auctions
in other churches, I shall add nothing here, except that one of
the committee cut long candles into short pieces by way of add



396                 SKETCHES OF
ing variety to the salesman's stock, and affording opportunities
for persons of small means to obtain bits of holy tapers.
An accident nearly put an end to the business. A slave was
relighting steeple lamps which the wind had blown out, and
some sparks fell from his torch on the canopy over the stage.
It took fire and was partially destroyed. The auctioneer, preternaturally alarmed, sprang from the boards, to the great diversion of the crowd. I was told that hundreds of young fellows
present would not have hesitated to burn down the whole concern. A strong police force was on the ground, and the chief
of police is head of the new brotherhood.
The fiery attractions included, 1. The usual twenty-foot pole,
with its zigzag train of bombs, for giving the sacred salutes.
Large and small balls alternate at the angles of the train, from
top to bottom of the pole. One gives out reports equal to muskets; the others drop and explode on the ground with a noise
that almost bursts the tympanum of one's ears; and when the
fire reaches the last, it starts into life, an inverted cone of rockets. 2. A long line of taller poles on the ridge of the mount,
and on the top of each some elaborated device-reels, wheels.
stars, and full-grown men and women. Such might be called
the chandeliers of the stage, while the foot-lights consisted of:
3. An extended row of flaming negroes' heads, alternating with
tar-barrels.
We squeezed into the church. The committee on portraits
were run down with customers. Veronica stood on their table:
a handsome four-foot figure, draped like a nun in russet gown,
and with thick folds of linen round her throat. She held a
bouquet in one hand, and in the palm of the other a minute
baby. Ladies young and old, gentlemen and lads, pressed to
buy her picture. Colored women came up with two-foot candles, which they reverently laid down, and received likenesses
of the Capuchin abbess.
All this time the business at the altars was going on, and
eunuchs borrowed from the Imperial Chapel were chanting.
When they got through, a monk entered the pulpit. His theme
was Veronica-her virtues, sufferings, and her glory; the kiss
Our Lady gave her, the value of her as a patroness, and the advantages of joining the brotherhood just instituted in honor of




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   397
her.  T     said the whole was a perfect rhapsody, and not
caring to hear more, we left.
14th. H      and I went to the Mint, and yet an old resident of Rio did not know there was one.  He had never seen
a Brazilian dollar. The currency is now wholly confined to
copper and paper. Neither silver nor gold is seen. The smallest denomination of bills are milreis, and all change below them
is made in copper.
The building is in the form of a hollow square; its front has
little to distinguish it from adjoining houses. The second is
devoted to engraving and die-sinking. An American transferring and a medal-ruling machine were in one room. One 6f the
artists showed us a small figure on a copper plate half engraved.
I observed it was designed for Washington; on hearing which,
he brought out a two-dollar Newark bill, from the margin of
which he was copying it. I did not understand that any bills
had as yet been engraved here.  The plates of those in circulation were executed in England.
The melting-rooms are on the ground floor, where are three
modern air furnaces and two old ones, with the ancient mode
of supplying the blast by lantern bellows-a form of the popular instrument of the highest antiquity, and still in vogue
throughout the Oriental world in one rude shape or another.
The specimens here are similar to the one noticed at the arsenal, and present perhaps the best modification of the old pneumatic device. To literary readers a sketch can
impart no interest, but
there are others who
will thank the writer for
inserting one.
A, an upright hollow
plank or chest, to whose
opposite sides the ends
of the leathern tubes or
sacks, b, 6, are nailed.
It answers the purpose
LANTERN BELLOWS IN THE MINT AT RIO DE JANEIRO. of tWO bellows-boards,
and is secured to a fixed base.  The nozzle proceeds from the




398                 SKETCHES OF
opening at A, which communicates with the cavity within. a,
a' are the movable boards, whose lower extremities turn on pins
or pivots as represented, and the upper ends or handles are secured to each other by the curved iron rod c, which passes
through a slit in a solid part of A. The clacks or valves of
a, a' of course open inward, and so do two others within the
cavity of A. Hence, by pushing a or a', one bellows or bag
is inflated, the other collapsed, and vice versa on reversing the
motion; thus a continuous though not uniform blast is kept up.
But for the rod c there would be two separate instruments,
which, if placed side by side, and the front boards alternately
pushed to and fro by each hand of the blower, would constitute
the dual bellows of the early Greeks, Romans, Celts, Germans,
and Anglo-Saxons, and would resemble those of modern India,
Egypt, Greece, Asia, and Africa generally.
Every thing is neat and neatly arranged about the Mint, but
no business connected with coining was going on. The furnaces were cold, the presses silent, and the small steam-engine
for driving the machinery was motionless.
The famous Lady of Lampadoza having her residence close by,
we stepped in. Like the temple of St. George, it is a small
and mean affair, the floor rotten and level with the street. The
altars and their wooden candlesticks, denuded of gilt and paint,
are clouded brown with age and handling; the walls frown on
the ebony sacristan as he lounges at the doorway, and the low
roof scowls on him for withholding a coat of whitewash; but
the varlet heeds them not, and possibly thinks colors increase
in beauty as they approach his own.
Over the chief altar stands the patrona nursing a child,
her occupation and regalia queerly contrasting with her fanciful, but faded, worn-out costume, her soiled hands and smutty
face. At her right stands "Balthazar, king of Congo," whose
white varnished eye-balls peer on her from sockets of jet. Confessing ignorance of this person's biography, I was told he was
one of the three wise men, or kings as they are said to have
been, guided by the star to the infant Christ in Bethlehem.
Why he was brought here will appear presently. On her left
is popular Anthony, his military sash, black cassock, and the
light blue frock of his baby assisting to relieve each other.




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   399
The baby's stature does not exceed six inches, nor the monk's
nor monarch's twenty-four.  The "patrona" is properly made
taller than her guests-she is four feet. Of all the faces, Balthazar's is the only one that does not cry for soap and water.
Passing through a side door, we entered the vestry, a large.
airy, well-conditioned room, worth half a dozen such as we just
had left. A young man gave us the history of the establishment, and showed us the original " Rules and By-laws," dated
1743-a fine specimen of old penmanship. The illustrated title,
in purple, red, and gold, represented the patrona, and each chapter begins with an illumined letter. The ground was not obtained till 1748. The donor's portrait hangs against the wall,
and close to it is a wooden tablet, on which is written, " It is
the duty of the brotherhood, whenever a priest performs mass
here, to ask him to pray for the souls of Pedro Coelho da Silva
and his wife, who gave the ground on which this church is built.
This was the second fane given to the blacks, that of the Rosary being the first. The policy of having a negro patron in
each was obvious, and hence Balthazar in one and Benedict in
the other. In 1828 this one was taken from them. In the
bureaus were festival suits for the images, including artificial
bouquets and trimmings, dating from Peter Coelho's days. Here
stood Our Lady of Pains, large as life, and in less antiquated costume than her sister over the altar. Here, too, was St.Vincente
Ferrea, of full stature. I could not learn who he was. He
looks like a nondescript —half monk, half angel. His head is
shaved, and his plump body robed in a cassock, while from his
shoulders sprout a pair of splendid wings.  Judging from his
name, he may have been a blacksmith before he joined a monastery and learned to read the Missal in his hands.
Our informant offered to show us as fine a piece of sculpture
as is in Rio. We went into the church, the front of an altar
was removed, and lo! a dead Christ lay on a checked mattress.  " There," said he, " that was carved out of cedar more
than eighty years ago by a slave named Fulah, the same who
made the colossal crucifix in the Jesuits' College on Castle
Hill." The general effect was not bad; the falling in of the
chest, and other indications of life's departure, were tolerably in
character.  The image had been fresh painted.  Its general




400                   SKETCHES OF
ghastly hue was set off with deep carmine gashes in the breast,
arms, thighs, and legs, besides smaller ones. The knees and
shoulders are sorely bruised. Each wound is surrounded with
a bluish tint, while vivid gore trickles or streams from all. I
examined the figure minutely. It is six feet long, and the
head has a slight movement. The joint is in the neck, and so
neatly covered with a band of skin or parchment (painted like
the rest of the body) as to require more than a casual inspection
to detect. The arms are attached in like manner. This image
is exposed for public veneration every Friday. Pious negroes
and others then crowd to kiss its hand and feet, and leave their
alms in a dish placed near it. A wig of flowing locks is then
put on the now bare head, and a coverlet thrown over the body.
The young man finished by giving us an account of himself.
He has been brought up to the law, but is about leaving it to
devote himself wholly, as he said, " to God's blessed Mother."
171th. The papers announce assassinations and famine still
prevalent in Ceara. Yesterday public business was suspended,
and the pageantry at the Imperial Chapel ilncreased by extra
masses and other doings, in view of the approaching birth of
another royal baby.
18thl. A gala day —the anniversary of the consecration and
coronation of Pedro II. A spectator tells me the consecrating
unguent was rubbed on the emperor's bare breast and shoulders,
and on the nape of his neck, according to the ritual, very much
as the two lads were consecrated to the Capuchins by Bedini.
19th. Another gala in honor of the protecting angel of the
empire. To compliment this nameless spirit, a procession was
got up in the Imperial Chapel, which I did not think worth going to see.
The usual mode of conveying presents, and the taste with
which their value is enhanced, was exemplified this evening.  A
messenger was announced, and presently a young man stood at
the parlor door with a covered tray on his left palm, and holding forth his right one, asked a blessing.* The salver was
* When a slave enters the parlor to light the candles, he salutes the members
of the family present by holding out his right hand and saying, " Louvado seja
Nossa Senhor Jesus Christ-a benqdo.' To neglect it would be deemed impertinent and deserving the lash.




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   401
heaped up with flowers, and in the centre an orbicular something, enveloped in fancy punctured paper, gathered up with
green ribbon, and set off at the corners with white and red
roses. The object inclosed was a large apple. This fruit is
rare, and consequently much prized. Yesterday a barefooted
young slave in livery passed by with a bilhete, the mode of
carrying which struck me as a pretty one. The slender stems
of a purple flower and of two yellow roses were passed through
the folds of the envelope, so that the letter was borne between
the bearer's hand and the flowers.
Ladies preparing for a ball send for a perruquier to plait their
tresses and set them off with flowers. With the other sex
things are different. The opinion of St.Paul, that it is a shame
for men to wear long hair, is universally accepted. All are so
closely cropped that with some the pile looks as if recovering
from the razor rather than the shears.
Called with II    on a corpulent and commanding widow
of sixty, in a fine old mansion in Mata Cavallos. Stately and
singularly punctilious, she is said to be a Semiramis in her family. We found her in the drawing-room on the second floor,
which resembled in its fittings those of other old first-rate
houses. The ceiling was raised and painted; the walls stenciled for three feet above the floor, and then papered. No glass
in the windows, which were mere frames, with outside lattices,
and heavy inside door-like shutters and massive bolts. Each
of the interior doors was formed of three planks tied together
with the usual dovetailed battens; they were painted (white),
but not planed; their only finish had been given by the popular adze. Broad wrought-iron hinges, iron locks without knobs,
and bolts extending from top to bottom, are capital fastenings
for bank vaults and warehouses, but rather antique as fittings
for a fashionable apartment. The facts, however, are worth recording for their relationship to the history of the arts.
In the day's table-talk some proverbial sayings occurred worth
noting.  " Carrying a lance into Africa" is applied to successful moves in business, at cards, etc. One fearful of imaginary
dangers has " seen Mloors on the coast." A person not easily
excited " has the blood of a barata"-a roach. Of the thoughtless and unscrupulous it is said, *" Presumption and holy water
Cc




402                 SKETCHES OF
cost nothing." A person in low spirits is "jururu"-an Indian
word. When people are frightened, " they have seen Medusa's
head." Of a dull person, " He will go to the sea and not find
water." Of a fortunate one, "His bread fell into the honey-pot."
When a solicited favor is not granted, "Well, it requires one
hand to wash the other, and both to clean the face," intimating
that the refuser will want the aid of friends sooner or later.
The neckcloth is a mark of gentility, the want of it of servitude. This doctrine of the old Portuguese is still enforced on
white young men. In Quitanda Street, the chief mart for dry
goods, one is sure to encounter clerks passing rapidly along
without hat or neckcloth, and their bare feet pushed into wooden slippers.
20th. St. Elias the Prophet's day was kept up by the White
Friars, and indulgences issued.
A hot dispute is raging respecting the troubles Bedini has
created among the mixed population of Pedropolis. He, or a
friend who echoes his sentiments, complains of the emperor not
taking sides in the controversy, and using his influence to prevent the spread of Protestant heresies. It is insinuated that
Pedro does not attend mass as often as his father and grandfather did. Brazilians are pretty well chained to Rome, and Bedini is determined to give them no chance of breaking loose, if
they were even so i:. lined. According to a promise it is rumored he gave the Pope, he is determined to bind the largest
portion of the Western World faster than ever to St. Peter's
chair. It was suggested that a public meeting should be called
It the Campo to express the sense of the citizens on the interference of Bedini, but it was replied that no public assembly of
the kind would be allowed: it would be deemed revolutionary.
The British embassador begged the loan of a medical electromagnetic machine I had brought from the United States, and,
at the request of Mr. Hamilton, I assisted the doctor in applying it.  Had Miranda, Bedini, or the Capuchins known that
this gentleman was seized with an affliction that has disfigured
his features and deprived him of the use of one arm while witnessing the procession of Priscilliana, and probably laughing
at the farce, they would have made no small capital out of ita heretic sneering at the newly-imported saint, and instantly




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                  403
struck dumb by her! It would have formed a twin transaction
to that of the wicked painter.
22d. Remarkable for having only a single saint assigned it.
To-morrow is more fortunate; it has several, and among them
one to whom all afflicted with concretions in the kidneys might
do well to apply. HI   and I spent some time in the House
of Representatives.  Several deputies are colored; some are
priests, and among them the Bishop of Rio. A few are physicians, but the greater part are lawyers and military men.
There is not a merchant in the House, nor a manufacturer; as
for mechanics, they are out of the question.
23d. Another gala day, which H    and I spent in a jaunt
to the Gavia Mountains.  Starting early, we tripped through
Boto-Fogo, and left the Botanic Garden behind. So elastic and
bright was the morning, that, before leaving home, the Corcovado seemed close to us, and now the distant "Two Brothers"
appeared at our elbows.  Cochineal cactuses occurred; breadtrees, laden with fruit, stood by the road side; and among floral treasures were "Flowers of Venus," of which a singular use,
considering their name, is made. The leaves, rubbed on leather, impart to it the color of jet, and hence are employed as blacking for boots and shoes-a hint to chemists and dyers.
Black streaks crossed the road, as if a wide tar-brush had
been drawn over the yellow soil: these were armies of ants
passing with forage to their camps. Occasionally a green leaf,
two or three inches over, is seen gliding along without any apparent mover: turn it over, and you find a Herculean emmet
bearing it away-a load vastly more disproportioned to the
bearer than the gates of Ascalon on Samson's shoulders.
The Gavia peak is nine miles from the city by land, and
twice that distance by sea. The elevation has been calculated
at three hundred feet above the Corcovado. Close to the ocean,
the Gavia presents a prominent mark for navigators, and is supposed to furnish evidence that the coast was visited by Phoenician or earlier adventurers. One part of the pinnacle is a colossal cubical mass, with a comparatively regular face overlooking the ocean, and on that face is the alleged record-an inscription of between twenty and thirty gigantic characters, deeply cut in the granite, and generally perpendicular and parallel.




404                 SKETCHES OF
After passing over an excessively rugged road, we arrived at
and rested on a summit, appropriately named Boa Vista. The
largest of the Irma6es, a bare, black, overwhelming mountain,
faced us. At our left were the valley we had come through,
and the glorious country between us and the Bay. At our right
the mighty Gavia towered, appearing close by, the sculptured
tablet exposed above, and the white surf rolling and roaring at
the base.  Here we took a sketch of the scene and of the writing, which appears in two lines extending across the middle of
the stupendous page. With a telescope we examined it minutely as we passed on. As we progressed, the table form contemplated from the city wholly vanished, and the largest and
highest mass resembled a pointed helmet, up which no mortals
could climb without the ascending powers of lizards.
In 1839, a committee of the Geographical Institute visited
the Gavia, and copied the fancied writing. Their report oscillates between a natural and artificial origin. A second and
more satisfactory investigation was promised, but has not been
made. It is admitted that the characters bear little resemblance to those of any known people of old; that the face of
the rock is inaccessible; that marks more or less like them are
met with elsewhere, and that imaginary figures of animals and
hunting scenes are found on the faces of mountains in other
provinces.
Like profiles of men in mountain outlines, or figures in coal
fires, these grooves in the Gavia may be interpreted into aught
imaginative beholders please. They have, I should say, as
much connection with primitive sea rovers as the Roman characters noticed on the Tejuca, and no more. If they were chiseled by human fingers, so was Anthony's Nose, shown to travelers on the Hudson River; the famous Virginia bridge was built
by antediluvian masons; the Niagara was a dam constructed by
Titan millers, and the Devil's Letters, impressed on a rock near
Cape Frio, are the veritable handy-work of the Wicked One.
But how were they produced? With a telescope we detected
kindred indentations in process of development on the Greater
Irmao, and on others of those cloud-crested quarries. Veins,
striae, cracks, and crevices pervade most, and into them vegetable fibrils creep, grow, and burst off portions whose figures and




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   4Q0
dimensions are governed by the directions and extent of previous
fissures, the texture or grain at the place of rupture, etc. On
the face, as on the summit of the highest and barest rocks, these
thread-like borers hunt for lodgments in the minutest chasms,
creep into every interior ramification, and swell till they displace the walls in front of them. Such, I believe, were the
sculptors of the Gavian hieroglyphics. Instances occur where
dislodged portions are protruded, but not sufficiently so to fall:
they are waiting till the powers behind expand again to give
them another push. In rocks partly decomposed these slow
drillers and silent blasters abound. They raise the material in
shelves, air and water then enter, and assist to break and crumble the layers up.
We rested a while and refreshed us near a venda at the base
of the awful pile. Half-naked children were playing about;
one had bone figas hanging at her ears. A man sat by the
door patching a jacket-an itinerant tailor. His whole dress
consisted of a shirt, and pants that barely covered his knees;
his feet and legs were greatly swelled, and occupied his attention as much as his needle.
On our return, two negroes came suddenly on us out of a
side path, bearing a pole on their shoulders. To it was slung
the body of a brother slave they were going to bury. A white
man, dressed like the tailor, met us —a picture of idleness, dirt,
and distress: a specimen, it is said, of thousands in Brazil,
whom slavery, with the feelings it has generated, makes wretched. Labor is degrading, and as they have not the means to
live respectably without it, what can they do? Custom, instead
of honoring useful toil, withholds all stimulus to exertion, and
in a manner compels them to degenerate into worse than Indian habits. If they had land they could not cultivate it without slaves, and these they can not buy. The climate favors
them: dwellings are hardly necessary, fuel and fire can be dispensed with, and, excepting fig-leaves, so might clothing. The
poor of Brazil are poor indeed.
Pretty well used up, we got home soon after dark, with hands
swelled with the bites of borrachudos.
25ti. Public business suspended in honor of San Tiago.
26th. Anniversary of " Sta. Anna, mae da Mae de Deos."




406                 SKETCHES OF
Festas are announced at her sanctuary in the Campo, and at
several others. As she is a favorite advocate, she has a shrine
in most of the churches.
The president of the province of Rio has required the attendance of the master of the school at Pedropolis (a German and
Roman Catholic) to explain the language used by Bedini in an
address to the scholars.  It appears that, not content with
throwing a firebrand among their parents in the Church, he
charged the boys of papists to hold no communication with their
Protestant school-fellows. The master has arrived. He called
at J.'s to-day.
28th. Thermometer early this morning, 630. Of the whimsical incarnations of the Virgin, the novenas of a rare one began
yesterday-Our Lady of Snows!
30th. Yesterday a princess was born, and to-day hundreds
are off to Christoval; not only army and navy officers, priests,
monks, and diplomatists, but almost all that can raise a suitable dress, and hire or borrow a carriage for the occasion.  The
road is thronged with parties hastening to leave their salutations
for "her serene highness, the imperial princess Dofia Isabel
Christina Leopoldina Augusta Michaela Gabriela Raphaela
Gonsago"-a lady one day old! There are, however, enlightened spirits in Brazil who scorn the practice. A deputy, in
offering a complimentary resolution, dwelt on " the inappreciable honor of congratulating his imperial majesty on Divine Providence having conceded to him another pledge of felicity, and to
the empire another glorious safeguard to monarchy." The Solomon was listened to, and the Chamber endorsed his wisdom.
31st. We called at the Police-office to look over the budget
of an African conjurer just arrested. There was enough to load
a cart. A large jar, concealed by skirts, constituted the body
of the chief idol; two smaller ones were of wood, with jointed
arms, their faces and heads smeared with blood and feathersa fowl being required of every inquirer; iron prongs and stone
knives, used as sacrificial implements; goats' horns, ivory tusks,
skeleton heads of animals, a string of jaw-bones, small boxes
of colored dust, rattles, a ferula, bundles of herbs (one of rue),
the scarlet cap and gown of the enchanter, and the curtain behind which he acted the part of a ventriloquist in raising spirits




LIFE  IN BRAZIL.                        407
and conversing with them.  Being a slave-a shrewd Minashe is to be flogged. The justice says the apparatus of a wizard's
den is known as a Candombe, and that these fellows are successful in plundering slaves of their little savings, and stimulating them to rob their owners. Besides furnishing harmless
powders as love-potions to insure milder treatment, they sometimes give out ground glass and other noxious matters to be'
dropped into the master's food.
CHAPTER XXXVII.
The Corcovado Mountain and Carioco Aqueduct: View from chamber Window.Aqueduct Arches.-Ascent of the Tereza Hill.-Conduit and receiving Basins.
-Romantic Character of the Work.-Section of Conduit.-Mother of Waters.
— Paineiras and Pic-nic.-Forest Features.-Ascent of the Corcovado.-Vegetable Instincts.-Summit of the Mountain.-Prospects from it.-Descent.-The
Paineiras tributary to the Mother of Waters.-Reach Home by Lamp-light.Subsequent Visits to the Aqueduct.-Its Length and Fall. —Section of Channel
over the Arches.-Entire Length of the Aqueduct and Feeders.-Water furnished by it.-Might be conveyed through Tubes into every dwelling.-No Reservoirs.
J      and I having agreed to visit the hunchback, the great
natural lion of Rio, I awoke early amid such streams of golden
light as poets invest celestials with. Before leaving the room,
let us raise the ponderous sash and take a peep outside. Apparently not more than a mile off, yonder rises, at the left, beautiful Mount Martha, a perfect cone, and the most conspicuous
of an insulated crowd. In its rear a somewhat similar formed pile towers over all the country and the ocean near. Its apex
is a pinnacle, abrupt, on one side precipitous. To mount it
seems impossible, and yet it is said to have been scaled on
horseback, though where the animal found standing-room, save
for his hind feet in a rearing attitude, does not appear.  That is
the Corcovado, and to its very summit we are bound. Scarcely
a cloud dots the blue vault of heaven, but, as usual, milk-white
fleeces are floating half way down the gigantic range, while one,
pure as driven snow and dense as chalk, has within the last few
moments cut off the black peak from the body.*
* This trip to the Corcovado was made in the latter end of March, but the MS.
account of it having been mislaid, it is inserted here. It had been unnecessary to
mention this but for references to some winter flowers.




408                    SKETCHES OF
Mii lii i  iil!l Ii eii i   Dii   l iiliiilll  ili i  iiiirill  liiii li i  i   ii I sti iiiiii iiiiistiibiiiiii    i l  iiti!  Ii  i' il  ",! 42 Esi~i-  I  liiiliil/i~lill  lili~ii   I i  ill,- I...........'..  lit ll
lll l              i         i  i 
We were soon off, in white roundabouts and wide straw hats.
" But how is this?" I inquired; "we are going from, not toward the mountain." "The longest way is the shortest," was
the sententious reply. We soon came to Arcos Street, so named
from the double tier of arches on which the Carioco stream is
conveyed from the lower part of Tereza to Antonio Hill.  Collected in the Corcovado glens, I now learned that only on the
artificial elevations, made to bring the water to the city, can that
mountain be approached. Our way, therefore, lies along the
most picturesque of aqueducts, and thus a double pleasure attends us. While waiting in Arcos Street for our saddle-horses,
the outlines of the scene were t ak    en. At  our right towered a
part of the aqueduct arches; facing us arose the dead wall of
the Terez Conentious garden, and over it banana-trees hanging;
at  its    doublemity began the  steep road we  had to travel.
Above the garden appeared a grassy hill, and thabeyond it the con
vent church. Projecting from the wall are spouts to supply the




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                    409
vicinity with water. Not less than two dozen slaves, of both
sexes, came to fill their barils during the few minutes we waited, several of whom carried the liquid high up the hill down
which it comes.
Though one of the most interesting structures through which
life's liquid ever ran, the aqueduct has never been described;
it will therefore be considered the principal object of the trip,
and of other trips, for a week might be profitably devoted to it
alone. The Tereza is the highest of the city hills, and from its
summit the fluid descends. This hill, which in most lands
would be called a mountain, is not insulated, but joins more
aspiring peaks in its rear.  We are now about to scale it.  The
ARCOS STREET.




410                 SKETCHES OF
lower part of the road, beginning at Arcos Street, is paved, the
rest is broken and rugged as a gully. Up the long and tortuous steep we ride, grasping the pommels of our saddles to prevent sliding off behind.
As we proceeded, a stone fence or stuccoed wall, varying
from five to eight feet in height, was at our right. It turned
with the road, and rose and fell with it. I supposed it was designed to keep the high ground behind it from caving in and
blocking up the pathway, but at certain distances it was capped
with peaked ridges extending across it, and their ends flush with
its face. An opening appeared in each ridge. Asking for an explanation, I was quite taken by surprise on being told that this
wall, as I called it, was hollow, and neither more nor less than
a part of the famous conduit. I dismounted, put my ear to
one of the openings, and, sure enough, heard the sound of rushing water. The difference in the height of the structure arose
from the irregularity of the ground. With us, such worksthe Croton, for example-have a slight and nearly uniform descent, but here they glide along gentle inclinations in one place,
and dash down declivities steep as old Dutch roofs in another.
WVe had now risen between seventy and eighty feet above the
pavement in Arcos Street, a few feet above the upper tier of
arches, and were but a short distance from them, when, at a
turn in the road, we came to the first " caixa"-the name of a
structure built over a receiving-basin, where great changes in
the direction or descent of the channel occur. Before reaching
it, the wall-like structure had left the road, but here it appeared
again, ascending from the caixa in two stretches, and disappearing in the side of a hill, upon which the Tereza Church and
Convent stand, as seen in the sketch on the next page. The
upper stretch has a fall (as I subsequently ascertained) of fifty
inches in fifteen feet; the lower one enters the caixa with a descent of thirty-nine inches in fifteen feet. From this caixa the
channel passes directly to the arches.
After passing the convent, the conduit appeared again, and
accompanied us up to the summit of the Tereza Mountain,
where we stood something like three hundred feet above the
pavement below, and here is only the beginning, as it were, of
this romantic specimen of engineering. It takes a turn at right




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                     411
=QUEDUCT AND CAi.A.
angles on the right, and wriggling zigzag fashion, like a wormfence, is soon lost to view in the forest. To accommodate the
inhabitants of a few houses on the summit, an iron grating is let
into the face of the work, through which slaves lade out the fluid
with a calabash or cocoa-shell into their barils. The interior dimensions being thus open to the light, I dismounted and made
a minute of them. I subsequently found they were the same
throughout the entire length of the work. Now let the reader
imagine the vast consumption of water in so populous a city
within the tropics as Rio Janeiro, and try to infer the capacity
of this, the chief source of its supply. Perhaps with me, when
I first viewed yon extensive range of forty massive arches below, elevated as they are upon an equal number, for conveying
the fluid across a valley of near a thousand feet, and at an elevation of some sixty feet above the heads of citizens in the
streets, he will be inclined to assign to it the capacity of a canal.
But, speculate as he may, he could hardly realize or even approach the reality. So interesting in its course, its deviations,




412                  SKETCHES OF
and descents as this aqueduct is, its volume of liquid took me
with the most surprise. I may as well give a section here, for
without one the peculiarities of this chief of Brazilian waterworks can not be understood.
The figure represents a cross section at a spot where the
whole was beneath the surface, showing the interior,
\.i Xwhere a person can conveniently walk upright, while the
width is almost sufficient for
two to go abreast. The space
is six feet by three.  The
walls, of ordinary masonry,
are twenty-one inches thick,
the dome is arched with brick
and covered with a peaked
SECTION OF THE CARIOCO AQUEDUCT.   roof  f gravel and mortar,
and the whole plastered with a coat of lime and clay-the same
as all rough walls in the city, and which, from the humidity of
the climate, never hardens sufficiently to resist a pointed stick
or the end of an umbrella. The work appears at different elevations above the surface, and sometimes, though rarely, disappears beneath it.
Is it asked how high the water rises up the walls? It does
does not touch them. Its surface is below them. It flows
through a semicircular channel, cut in granite slabs laid at the
bottom. The extreme depth of the channel is nine and a half
inches, and the width at the widest part is nine inches —a
mere gutter! and, small as it is, seldom over two thirds fullthat is, except where the inclination is very moderate. These
gutters were brought from Portugal: the blocks vary from three
to eight feet in length, and are seldom less than two in width.
A course of bricks on each side fills the space between them
and the walls. We passed several blocks lying about; in some
the channel is elbowed, in others a small one crosses the main
one. Some of these weighed not less than half a ton. Their
conveyance up here in early times must have been an immense
labor.
We now continued along a narrow and grassy road cut in




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   413
the breast of mountains-a forest precipice at one hand, and
the aqueduct, presenting a wall seldom less than five feet high,
at the other. A velvet foot-path occasionally runs along its
roof, while rocks and trees tower far above it. A solitary
chacara appears now and then, and gratings in the conduit.
They are doors composed of bars five or six inches apart,
their lower edges being level with the water-channel. To facilitate the dipping of the fluid, a lateral basin adjoining the bars
communicates with the current.  When the water is below the
surface of the ground, a few steps lead down to the grating,
wherever chacaras in the vicinity require one.
We came to one of these that was unlocked.  It was four
feet square, so I stepped inside of the aqueduct, and walked
some distance along it. There is sufficient light to go from one
extremity to the other, for openings ten inches by seven occur
every fifteen or twenty feet. The fall was here not less than
two feet in twenty; the little stream gurgled as it rushed between my feet, and boiled and foamed in the basin at the grating. The wall seldom continues over a hundred feet without
turning. It consists of a succession of short stretches, invariably in right lines, and broken laterally into every: diversity of
angles.
The Humpback occasionally rises above the forest, reminding us that our visit is also to him. Away down below us is a
real Buena Vista-Engenho Velha and the Christoval Palace,
which latter looks small enough to put in one's pocket. A little
farther, and we ride over the aqueduct between two triangular
columns, like the posts of a gateway.  Both alike, they are
named brothers. We passed between a similar pair before.
The prospect soon becomes circumscribed, and the scenery wilder. Little but trees and sky is visible. Close at our right, the
mountain forests reach to heaven, and immediately at our left
descend to depths that make one shudder. A false step, and
horse and rider are plunged to destruction. The place is rendered still more dangerous, it is alleged, by runaway slaves, who
harbor here, and prowl about for means to live. At one spot
we caught a sight of the Larangeiras valley, its road reduced to
a thread of vermilion in a web of green baize.
Proceeding, the air becomes damper, and the overhanging




414                 SKETCHES OF
trees seem about to rain. Their dense foliage prevents the sun
from penetrating, and the conduit becomes coated with moss.
Its roof has in some places disappeared, leaving the arch exposed, and here and there fallen in. The old imported bricks
that compose it are of the same dimensions as those now made
in the country. At a turn in the work a tiny stream-the Lagoinha feeder-comes down the overhanging mountains, broken
into spray in the fall, and, gathered at the bottom, joins the
aqueduct in an open tile. Brought from a distance of between
six and seven hundred Brazilian fathoms in tile channels, it
would at present scarcely fill an inch tube.
Wishing a thousand times that I was on foot, we came at
length to Jlai de Agua, "The Mother of Waters," a rude baTHE MOTHER OF WATER8.




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   415
sin, some thirty feet by twelve, formed in the rock, and having
a rural roof over it. The water, fifteen inches deep, does not
spring up within it, but comes down, a miniature cataract, from
projecting precipices, the place from where it leaps being concealed by trees and dense foliage.
Here, at a tortuous distance of between four and five miles
from the city, and some seven hundred feet above it, the aques
duct, as I supposed, terminated; but no, not even here. This
is simply the spot where tributary streams unite, and whence
they descend in one volume to the town. The idea of a river
or rivulet running through a little stone gutter may excite a
smile, and yet that gutter is the outlet of several.  The Carioco
River, as it is called, brings in the principal supply to the
Mother of Waters. Its source is in the mountain fastnesses, and
all but inaccessible: it has five branches-the Corcovado, des
Velhas, Serra, Lagurnal, and Regilio. These, with the parent
stream, are brought in open tiles. Two other rivulets are also
diverted hither —the Silvestre and Paineiras. The length of
the latter is said to be some thousand fathoms, and an expensive work. Properly speaking, all these waters are springs,
whose trickling treasures are thus gathered together. Each is
named after the mountain from whose sides, or the cavern out
of which, it gushes. In wet weather they become torrents, and
hence provision is made at the mother reservoir to discharge
the surplus down the dark yawning gulf at the edge of which
it is located.
There is here a grating in the side of the conduit which enabled me again to mark and measure the interior. The dimensions and character of the whole were found precisely as represented in the section taken on the Tereza Hill.  The descent
of the channel is here moderate, and the water rises to the brim.
At the junction of the conduit with the reservoir there is a corroded marble tablet let into the end wall of the latter. The inscription is in old and abbreviated Portuguese. With some
difficulty we made out the letters: they are to this effect: " Under our Lord King John V., Gomes Freire de Andrade, Governor and Captain General, and Councilor to the King, 1744." Here
is no intimation when the work was begun, or by whom it was
projected and executed.  This is to be regretted, since there is




416                 SKETCHES OF
not a line in the public archives relating to its history. Agreeably to monarchical modesty, every thing eminently useful and
honorable must be ascribed to royalty and its satraps.
It is not easy to impart an adequate idea of the Mother of
Waters, buried as it is in a tropical forest, amid scenes indescribably picturesque and sublime. As for that portion of the
aqueduct along which we have come, another time must be
taken to examine it particularly. There is a moral influence
about it in such a day as this. An emblem of youth and innocence, its crystal current gushes and sparkles as from excess
of joy, running, leaping, and changing its course and its speed
as in wantonness of play. A kindred feeling arises, we wot not
how, within us. Buoyant and elastic, pleased with ourselves
and all about us, heaven and earth seem one. Exulting in our
being, emotions such as swell in angels' breasts heave in ours,
and burst out into ejaculations of praise. To hypochondriacs
the Mai de Agua would prove a fountain of health, and efficacious as the pool of Siloam.  Melancholy would leave them
ere they reached it. Like the lepers of old, they would be healed by the way.
_Having so much work before us, we could linger no longer.
As we pressed on, the road became less and less inviting. It
was well enough for men who have tame tigers to ride on, but
not for timid travelers on nags of the equus genus. I preferred
leading mine to mounting him. After a while, a neat little line
of embankment appeared, running along the right of the path.
It formed a low grassy wall, on the top of which an uncovered
line of bright red tiles was imbedded —the channel through
which the Silvestre's tribute was borne along to the Mai de
Agua. The liquid volume was scarcely equal to the bore of a
three-inch tube.  A little farther, and a feeder of like construction came out of the dark woods, and joined it. The path
widened, but close to our right rocks and trees shot up to heaven, while at our left the scene was awfully precipitous. A few
minutes more, and we were completely hid in the forest. Trees
were above, below, behind, before, and all but in contact with
us. Nothing else was visible except, now and then, a few
inches of sky between translucent leaves, quivering hundreds
of feet above us-Nature's green lattices.




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   417
We had got out of the track, and, fortunately, a loud hilloa!
caused us to stand. The warning came from Pompey, who left
home before us with a basket of provisions, and was resting
near by. Now both in the stirrups, we sprung our horses up
a gulley-a feat that a circus-rider might boast of-and rode
past a mud-built house, in front of which lay a heap of coffeeberries drying in the sun. Slaves were picking clusters from
trees in the rear and bringing them in baskets to the pile.  Continuing on, the Corcovado peak, which we have scarcely seen
or thought of for some time, now frowns in front, and looks as if
inclined to tumble on us. The little tile conduit appears once
more, and the scenery is quite enchanting. Every few yards'
advance produces a new view. Still the forest occasionally ascends to the clouds on one side, and sinks at the other into
depths and darkness. Far ahead, and at least a hundred feet
above me, his white dress finely contrasting with the forest's
livery, J-   is passing a turn in the road, which is so crooked
and so up and down that his horse's head is in the opposite direction to mine: he is leaning back over the animal's rump,
while my face is touching the mane of my steed.
The saints be praised! a level spot, on which to rest a moment, is at length attained. My poor nag blows as if his lungs,
like a damaged pair of bellows, were ruptured. The road we
have just climbed must at least be on an angle of 40~ —a
heavy drag for horses, and not less for our peon. Yet slaves,
it is said, consider the job a treat, and enjoy it as much as their
masters.  Hark! J-    is calling; the only sound, save that
from my horse's nostrils, which I've heard for some time. The
animal is, I believe, familiar with the route, and I've begun to
yield up the reins to him. He tacks from side to side as he
creeps up, and now and then passes into a twelve-inch track on
the very verge of the gulf. Till he gets off it I instinctively incline my body the other way. J     is shouting again, but I
have no idea of saving a minute at the risk of being sent, by a
false step, on a flying visit to forests which, for aught I know,
are a thousand fathoms beneath me, taking a leap terrible as
that of Curtius.
A feeble sound of water comes up friom glens into which the
solar light for unnumbered ages has probably never shone, so
D D




418                 SKETCHES OF
deep and dense the screen that intervenes.  Here two trunks
of trees extend diagonally across the road, and are partly sunk
in it-terrible traps for the feet of men and cattle in the dark.
Six inches apart, they form a gutter to convey part of the water streaming down in wet weather to cultivated spots of ground.
Other agricultural indications occur.  The ugly gutters become
more frequent, and demand constant attention on our part. The
road descends, and presently we cross the stream whose murmurs we had heard-one of the tributaries to the Mother of Waters, three feet wide and three to five inches deep. The limpid
fluid, which our horses were glad to taste, gurgles for a few yards
among pebbles, whirls in tiny eddies by moss-covered boulders,
and darts out of sight.
Crossing the brooklet once more, and this time on a wooden
bridge, the road improves. Here another tile conduit occurred,
nearly level with our horses' feet, but quite dry; a handsome
row of coffee-trees and another of oranges now inclose us, the
ridge of a roof is visible above, and soon we dismount on a level
spot, and join a party of gentlemen from the city in a delicious
pic-nic.
This place is called "The Paineiras," from trees of that
name, for which the adjoining mountains once were famous.
Numbers still are flourishing, resembling grown oaks in size,
and producing, in place of acorns, snow-balls of cotton. Each
is a genuine noli me tangere, its bole being closely studded with
cones half an inch at the base, projecting about the same distance, and compared with whose sharp points cambric needles
are blunt as one's fingers.
The Paineiras branch of the aqueduct comes in here on its
way to join the Mai de Agua. A small building accommodates
the overseer of the work.  Here are stables in which to leave
our steeds, the rest of the journey having to be done on foot.
This platform is, to some extent, artificial. At the extremity
opposite to the one by which we reached it, the view opens
down a huge gorge to the sea. It connects the Corcovado and
Paineiras Mountains, and may be taken as part of either, as it
rests on both. On our left the former rises, and at the right
the latter stretch away past the Botanic Garden, which they
overhang in awful grandeur.




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   419
In coming thus far, one feature of the forest was observable:
the general green foliage was dotted with patches of light and
dark purple, and here and there with masses of yellow flowers.
These are Brazilian " signs of winter." The purple gems are
" the flowers of Lent;" of the mourning color, and opening at
the commencement of the long fast, Nature is supposed to sympathize with that season of mortification. The yellows ripen at
Easter, and, being of " the color of joy," are aptly named "A1lelulias." The "martyr flower" grows on a small plant, is
shaped like a lily, and of a deep purple approaching to indigo.
Two varieties of the passion flower are also cherished, purple
and crimson: they open in Lent, and in each the devout see the
spear that pierced the Savior, the nails that fastened him to the
tree, the whip that scourged him and ten of the apostles. We
passed many "silver trees," the entire foliage white and glistening.
Invigorated, and provided with stout walking-sticks, we now
began the zigzag ascent of the Corcovado. Roots, large and
small, run quite across the road, and some, resembling taut ropes,
a foot above it; primitive gutters, like those below, and boulders also, interrupt us; still, it is considered in good condition,
late heavy rains having cleared away the worst obstruction, viz.,
leaves. They are so slippery as to make the ascent troublesome in the extreme, and the descent more so.
Here I first observed, and stopped to admire, large trees, the
horizontal sections of whose boles present cusped or star-shaped
figures, and here I beheld a fine example of vegetable instinct.
Every where trees, when prevented from growing upright, seek
to recover their natural position, and to equalize the strain on
their roots by sending them and branches out in the opposite direction. Where the face of the mountain rises at an angle of
50~, a noble tree partially inclines down for eight or ten feet,
and then, as if the original obstacle had there been overcome,
ascends perpendicularly sixty feet before throwing out its branches. How enormous the strain on the upper roots that prevent
its prostration! After passing it, I was surprised to see a large
vertical triangular slab protruding from it behind, and entering
the ground. Not knowing what to make of it, and almost thinking it an artificial bracket, I clambered up and found it a natu



420                 SKETCHES OF
ral one-a sheet of plank of a uniform thickness throughout,
viz., 21 inches.
The higher we mount, the steeper becomes the path, the
quicker and shorter our breath. The trees diminish in number
and dimensions, scrub bushes appear, and at length we emerge
on the base of the peak. The sun is broiling hot, and not an
inch of shade to be had. My companion declares he can not
stand the grilling, and after cautioning me not to venture near
the surrounding precipices, he dove at once into the forest, leaving me solus on the mighty pinnacle.
A sense of loneliness and a slight tinge of fear crept over me,
but I was mistaken in anticipating naught but still-life here. A
heavy bird, white underneath, came sailing up from the Larangeiras glens, wheeled and floated high overhead, then suddenly
swept down again-I suppose an eagle on the hunt. Numerous swallows darted hither and thither close to me, and twice a
gorgeous green beetle lit on my arm. Ants-the great domestic
pest-have colonies here. They kept running over the paper
in my hand, though how they got on it puzzled me. Other natives of the place not less vindictive attacked me. An ear began to pain me-I found it inflamed and bleeding.
The prospect from where I stood was so striking, that I determined, before advancing, to preserve it in memory for a sketch.
Four upright sticks, over which some party had stretched a
sheet or other screen, were standing near. I tried to spread a
handkerchief at one corner, and subsequently my jacket, but,
having nothing properly to secure them, they were so repeatedly displaced by currents of air that I returned them to their
former places, and mentally told Apollo to do his worst.
In front the rock rises sixty or seventy feet above me-a
dark, irregular, ruptured cone, relieved by the sky.  At its
edges a few shrubs and creeping plants hang over the abyss.
Rails to guard people from falling over precipitous portions of
the rock are seen at the summit. To the left the pile rounds
quickly off into awful declivities at the side up which we have
come, exposing to view the city suburbs in distant depths, the
Bay, and the mountains of Nictherohy, which last look like a
broken wall as seen through mist. At the right the ocean forms
the horizon, and touches the Gavia at the extreme right. Four




,LIFE IN BRAZIL.                  421
S'MMIT OF THE CORCOVADO.
_.''.:~'7{.-~....
SUMMIT OF THE CORCOVADO.
islands rise out of the placid water. On one the light-housea diminutive thing-glistens like a pin stuck in a dark velvet
cushion. Between these and a nearly level line of precipice
running within twenty feet of me, nothing is visible but an assemblage of isolated peaks, rivaling in vain the eminence on
which I stand. I drew near and glanced down among them,
but drew back with a shudder.
Climbing higher up the contracting rock, its outline and appearance were so changed that I stopped and took another
sketch. The two widely-extended wings of the low wooden
railing opened before me, the rest being concealed behind the
peak, which now appears a rounded and uneven swelling. All
is bleak and bare of vegetation save where a few minute blades
are struggling through crevices in the granite, and a withered
stump leaning over the precipice at the right. Upon its extremity sat a bird of the color and size of a thrush, whose pewit
voice drew my attention to it. It remained, turning its head




422                  SKETCHES OF
and eyeing me for some time. Once or twice it darted off, and
as suddenly changing its mind, returned. At length, at the
call of its mate, it dropped out of sight. From it I turned and
contemplated some pebbles at my feet, varying from half an
inch to four inches over. Surprised, at first I wondered how
they came here. A slight examination explained all. Fragments of feldspar, one of the chief constituents of the Corcovado,
they have been cut from its surface, and their angles rounded
by the elements, and have progressed thus far on their journey
down, and in the process of disintegration and transmutation
into soil.
The ascent is overcome with little difficulty and with less
danger, provided one keep midway between the precipices at either hand. On stepping up within the railing, the origin of the
pebbles was evident. The entire surface of the rock was paved
with white roundish stones imbedded in black cement, and looking at a short distance not unlike the floor of an artificial grotto. The dark matrix, being a more dissoluble ingredient of the
granite than the feldspar, is soon worn and washed away, and
leaves the latter in relief. Then the dissolving agents, after
penetrating beneath the surface, extend their influence horizontally. After breaking the blade of a strong knife in endeavoring to obtain specimens, I succeeded in raising a piece three feet
by two, and three inches thick where it parted from the general
mass. Part crumbled in my hands, and portions had already
assumed the tint of the loam beneath.
Such is the process by which nature has been lowering the
Corcovado Peak, and converting it into vegetable mould from
epochs anterior to the birth of animals, and possibly of plants.
Its nude, mottled, dissolving crest doubtless presents, in these
respects, the same appearances it has ever shown since heat and
moisture began to act on it, and since winds and rains, thunders and lightnings have played round it. What its elevation
was originally, who can tell? Still, the idea has repeatedly
forced itself on me, that something like data from which to calculate the age of these insulated granitic piles might possibly be
derived from the depth of soil collected on the sides and bases,
compared with the detritus borne down during a few centuries,
if proper means were taken to ascertain the amount.




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                  423
While engaged with the specimens I intended to take, the
movements of a small creature drew me close to the rails.  It
was a lizard at the very edge of the cliff, down which the tail
and part of its body hung. Gazing a moment at me, it darted
out of sight-perished, as I supposed; but no; in a twinkling
it appeared at the brink some ten feet off, and, raising its head,
turned its beautiful orbs again on me. While looking at it I
forgot the awful chasms; but now the sight, on drawing near,
made me recoil with giddiness.
A few yards more, and I stood on the swelled protuberance,
the apex of the mountain, as I imagined; but lo! two distinct
peaks now appeared, separated by a cleft whose sides present
frightful perpendicular terminations. The railing now gathered
in, and descended to a wooden bridge, seven or eight paces long,
stretched over a chasm of fearful depth at one side, but only
twenty feet at the other. I stepped down on the bridge by
rude steps or notches cut in the rock, and, crossing over, ascended the farther peak by many more. This, then, is the highest point of the Corcovado. The area is smaller than the first
one affords, but here is uneven standing-ground 25 feet by 15.
In the centre a hole is sunk, 12 inches deep by 7 inches, and
full of water, probably for a flag-staff. For the statue of a South
American Washington or Franklin, this is the spot. The black
and white mosaic pavement is here repeated, a specimen of
which I took. At the extreme end, and beyond the rails, eight
rocky steps descend to a little grassy plot at the very verge of
the most precipitous part of the mount. Fatigued, I was glad
to descend and lie down while viewing a scene more sublime
than any I had beheld on shore-one such as eagles see when
soaring.
I had not a very distinct idea of the jutting coast inside and
out of the harbor's mouth, but now every line is defined and
every object depicted on a superbly-tinted map. The widespreading ocean appears slate-colored till it reaches the tortuous
and shallow shores, and there it every where presents a vivid
border of light green, fringed with a frill of surf white as driven
snow. This raised edging, too, is pleasantly relieved by a rim
of yellow sand. The Sugar-loaf, no longer leaning, is now bolt
upright, more like its namesake than ever. That brown patch




424                   SKETCHES OF
down yonder is the city. It might be taken for an abandoned
brick-yard. Near it a few dots denote the shipping. How
minute the Bay and villa of Boto-Fogo —the Cattete, Gloria,
and Luzia Strands-the pretty Larangeiras dales and white chacaras! All things visible conspire to please one. Earth, sea,
and sky enrich the landscape with their varied hues. That
bright streak of red winding through the verdant grounds is a
turnpike. Yon distant mountains are draped in blue; those
nearer are all but black; while close by, Mount Martha and
her sisters shine in emerald robes, decked with spangles from
silver trees and flowers of Lent and allelulias.
The elevation* is quite moderate compared with many peaks,
but the surface of the earth and sea immediately below are so
visible through the transparent air that nothing is lost by intervening objects, and the full impression due to the height is felt.
As I sat and silent gazed, swallows came fluttering up, then
twittering and twirling, floated down the enchanted valleys. Almost lost in ecstasy, I soared and dove in fancy with them, till
a butterfly aroused me, when I rose and made one step to swing
my hat over it, forgetting the contracted spot on which I was.
Heaven only knows my feeling as I awoke to the danger. Instinctively leaning backward, I crept to the steps, and some moments transpired before I felt sufficiently composed to mount
them and get within the railing.
My stick was missing, and as it was folly to attempt a descent without one-not to facilitate, but to retard progress, for
when one's momentum gets beyond control, and that a few unwary steps bring about, there is no stopping until brought up
by a rock or tree, or by a fall that would most likely end one's
earthly journeyings-I got an apology for a staff from a large
shrub, and descended, slowly as a hermit, to a decayed trunk
lying across the road. Here we had rested on coming up, and
here my companion had left my stick. In half an hour I joined
him at the Paineiras, and there took leave of the Corcovado.
Bathing my hands and face in the conduit basin, I sucked an
* There are discrepancies in the measurements. Beechey, in his " Voyage to
the Pacific and Behring's Straits," made the peak of the Corcovado, in 1825, by
barometer, 2308 feet above half tide; by trigonometrical measurement, 2306 feet;
in 1828, by barometer, 2291~ feet; by trigonometrical measurement, 2305 feet.
I am indebted to the politeness of Commodore Wilkes, who makes it 2332 feet.




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                    425
orange and ate a slice of bread and butter with a relish that epicures never knew, seasoned as it was with the mustard of St.
Bernard.
I was desirous, before leaving, of following the Paineiras tributary to its source. From this place it flows to the Mother of
Waters through a string of tiles laid mostly on the ground, but
comes in here in a more imposing manner. As we had no time
to spare, we lost none by delay, and soon were walking along a
thick low wall, in which a bright red groove of tile was imbedded, contrasting agreeably with the green velvet path, encircling,forests, and white stucco of the wall.  This was the conduit:
built of rough stone, three feet
four inches high, and three feet
nine inches wide. To save material, the lower half consists of
a succession of flattened arches, three and a half feet span,
with an equal extent of solid
work between every two adSECTION OF THE PAINEIRAS FEEDER. jacent ones. The top is flat
and finished at the side with a projecting cornice of plaster.
The tiles are sunk flush with it, and form a clean and lively
feature of the work. They are nine and a half inches deep, and
twelve inches across their upper edges.
This pretty channel, on its snow-white bed, stretches away
in the direction of the ocean, suspended on the precipitous faces
of the Paineiras Mountains. Immense labor has been expended
on it. We were careful to keep near it at the right, where the
rocky forest shoots upward, to avoid slipping into the gulfs at
the left. At first the path led us past coffee-trees laden with
their scarlet clusters, and after leaving a few bananas and picturesque mamaos behind, we came to a terrible-looking precipice, where a wall sufficient to support the conduit and a safe
path has been artificially raised.  Here the silence was suddenly broken by parrots chattering down below. We next
came to where the face of the mountain had been removed by
blasting-a great undertaking to carry so small a trough along
the all but perpendicular sides of these everlasting hills.
Next the trees shut out the sun, and the conduit is overgrown




426                 SKETCHES OF
with moss. Much of the plaster has disappeared, and plants
are springing from every part of the wall. Leaves are in the
channel; insects, snakes, and other things, one would suppose,
must occasionally be found in it too. The path is now delightful, and the prospect grand indeed. We next came to a small
feeder. The fluid falls down from above, and, collecting behind
a short wall, joins the main channel, as usual, through a tile.
Rocks and trees here rise to heaven, and, within a few feet,
sink to dark and impenetrable gulfs.
The Botanic Garden is somewhere beneath us, and the white
surf rolling on the ocean shore is visible. We pass on, and the
scene becomes, if possible, more romantic; the damp has
caused every particle of plaster to drop off; the surplus water is
pouring down the precipice at several points. Continuing, we
come to the end of the tile channel and masonry-to wooden
gutters, propped at irregular distances on rude piles of loose
stones-box gutters nine inches deep and wide. The depth of
water in them is three inches, and passing rapidly. Trees are
growing two hundred feet above our heads. Things look wilder than ever, and verily they are so. We are no longer on the
ground, but creeping on long rows of planks, that rest on iron
rods let into and projecting from the face of the rock. Each
rod is turned up an inch or two at its outer end, to keep the
gutter from being pushed off. Between the gutter and the rock
there is just room to pass. This is the most ticklish situation
I was ever in.
I took one glimpse below, and that nearly upset me. After
passing it, I asked how deep the fall was. " God only knows,"
was the reply. Stepping once more on rugged and uneven
paths cut in the face of the mountain, the wooden channel kept
us company, now at our feet, and now propped up four feet high.
At length we came to a stretch of tiles again, where a side tributary came in; and not far off we were finally brought up at a
place where, the channel ascending a steep, we could not mount,
even if the dense forest had left an opening. A large tree marks
the spot where the tile channel again ends, and the wooden gutter, shooting upward, left us to conjecture what jungle-scenes it
passes through. We were now two miles, or perhaps more, from
the Paineiras. Plunging our mouths into the tile channel, we




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   427
drank and hastened back, fearful we should not get down the
mountains before dark. Reaching the Paineiras, we found a
slight refreshment prepared by our peon from the relics of his
larder. While partaking of it he brought out our steeds, which
we mounted, and, winding our way past the Mother of Waters,
reached home by lamplight.
I subsequently devoted several days to the aqueduct. Provided with instruments, assistants, and an order from Colonel
Frias, the distinguished superintendent of the Public Works,
opening every part to inspection, we measured the length of every stretch between the Mai de Agua to Tereza Hill.  They
were two hundred and fourteen in number, all in right lines,
and joined by angles more or less obtuse, seldom acute. Most
of them were under a hundred feet long, and some did not exceed thirty. The fall of each was taken with a fifteen-foot pole
or straight-edge, and a spirit level. In none was the descent
less than four inches in fifteen feet, often two feet; in one, four
feet and a half, and in another five feet, or one in three! We
made the length from the Mother of Waters to Tereza Hill
18,128 feet, with a fall of 520 feet.  From Tereza Hill down
to the caixa near the arches-figured on page 411-the lengths
of channel amount to 1290 feet, with a fall approaching to one
in five, or 230 feet.
A section of the top of the long range of arches will be acceptable to professional readers.
c, c, parapet walls,
from outside to outside
of which is nine feet.
The water-channel is
partly cut in granite,
W'but mostly of tiles nine
inches across, the same
/  "t "~''~     in depth, and two feet
long. A small stuccoed
wall, d, d, six inches high, runs along each side of the channel
to prevent its overflowing, and upon them loose boards (e) rest.
As there is no frost here, the stucco work, which never hardens
much, lasts many years. A pathway, twenty-seven inches wide,
and coated with stucco, is left on each side of the channel. The




428                    SKETCHES OF
whole length of this stretch of archway is 833 feet; the fall of
the channel five feet. At sixty feet from the Tereza side the
work turns at a slight angle; at 300 feet it passes over Mata
Cavallos and Arcos Street, where the elevation is sixty feet
above the pavement. After passing Arcos Street, it goes over
private yards and gardens to Antonio Hill, where it enters another vaulted passage about sixteen feet above the ground. I
counted forty arches, and I think there are two more under the
last-named covered passage. The fall, when the channel begins
to wind round Antonio Hill, is one and a half inches in fifteen
teet.
It will have been observed that the Miai de Agua is simply a
caixa, or receiving basin, into which the tributaries bring their
portions. The Office of Public Works has no account of the
inclination of any part of the work, but the length of artificial
conduit is recorded thus:
From the Hill Tereza to Mai de Agua........... 2589 Brazilian braeas.'  Silvestre Stream to do..........  321
Paineiras do., not known (at least).... 1000
Lagoinha Feeder....................  633
Thus the length of channel from Mai de Agua to Antonio Hill=20,305 feet; fall.
749 feet; length of feeders, as far as known.............. 14,166 "
Making the entire length of the Carioco Aqueduct........... 34,471 feet, with
a fall of about 1000 feet.
The last day spent over the aqueduct I was alone, and of
sketches then taken was one which, more than any other, is
calculated to impart to the reader a correct idea of it. A copy
is subjoined. It shows how erratic is the course of this famous
conduit in limited spaces; how it is seen coming down a steep
eminence into a caixa, and running zigzag from it at ever-varying descents and directions. Over the grated door of the
caixa is a marble tablet, with the inscription " Por Ordem do
Principe Rege No Sr Foi Reparada Esta Obra em 1814."  The
entire landscape, except this building, is a wild mountain forest.
Twilight began while I was some miles in the woods, and a
sensation of fear crept over me from recollections of stories of
runaway slaves robbing stray wanderers after nightfall. Having no stick, I stepped aside at an angle of the path, and cut
one from a paineira-tree. While removing the spines with a
knife, a tall negro with an ominous-looking staff burst suddenly




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   429
CARIOCO AQUEDUCT.
on me. He stood, gazed passed on, and anon returned with
club upraised. I tried to look bold, and asked what he wanted.
He understood not the words, but comprehended my wants.
Seeing I had got a poor branch-one not worth dressing, and
whose prickles had drawn blood from my fingers-with a smile
he drew near and offered me his. I hesitated, when he gently
put it in my hand and went on his way. Ashamed of my suspicions, I called after him, and with difficulty got the kindhearted man to accept a slight acknowledgment of his goodwill. It was dark when I arrived in the artificial world below.
The interest excited by the Carioco Aqueduct is augmented
by its simple construction; its erratic and fitful courses; the
wild, dark, and often awful scenery through which it passes;
the elevations at which it receives the fluid, and the extent to
which it meets the wishes of the people for "beaten" or agitated water, by causing it to leap and dance, to run, and boil.
and sparkle in its passage down. Besides some others, it supplies four fountains in the oldest part of the city, viz., the Cari



430                  SKETCHES OF
oco, Marecas, Moura, and the one in Palace Square. To the
first it gives (according to the account in the Office of Public
Works) 37,420 barils in twenty-four hours; to the second, 1800
do.; to the third, 600 do.; and to the last, 6840.  The baril
is estimated at seven gallons.
Nature supplies this necessary of life in abundance, and
would, if permitted, deliver it freely at the door of every dwelling, and raise it into every garret. In place of accepting her
offer, it is drawn down in open gutters to the lowest streets,
and thence borne upward, day and night, to the highest, by
thousands of slaves, at an annual cost little exceeding that at
which an ever-present stream in every house might be permanently attained. No city on earth is more favored in this respect than Rio.
There are no reservoirs in case of drought or damage to the
works, so that when the supply is interrupted in the mountains
it ceases in the city.
CHAPTER XXXVIII.
Population of Brazil.-Diseases — National Income.-Police.-Literature.-Library. —Newspapers.-Character of Brazilians.-Slaves.-Voyage Home.
BRAZIL is poor in population, and must be till she adopt a
comprehensive and liberal system of immigration; but this is
dreaded on account of the leveling spirit of the age, and a fear
that both the Church and the throne would be endangered. No
subject is more involved in uncertainty than the census. Official accounts, it is alleged, are often based on imperfect data,
and not seldom on mere assumptions. As respects certain portions of the inhabitants, it is considered discreet in the authorities to say little; thus no reliable comparison of the numbers
of whites and free colored are given, on account of the alleged
overwhelming proportion of the latter.  In the maritime cities
and provinces the mixture of blood is obvious, but in the interior the preponderance of color is awful (I use the words of a
native). In the city of Tejuco, the most thriving one in Minas
and of the interior of Brazil, are only five pure white families
among twelve thousand inhabitants.




LIFE  IN  BRAZIL.                            431
I am indebted to a senator for a copy of a report made to the
Chamber, July 21, 1847. It appears to be simply a reprint of
a report by the Councilor Velloso in 1819, entitled " THE
CHURCH OF BRAZIL, or Information to serve as a Basis for Dividing the Empire into Bishoprics," etc.   He estimates, from
isolated computations of previous years, the total da povoagao
Brazilense in 1819 at 4,396,231,* including 800,000 wild Indians, their conjectural number.
The D)iario of December 11, 1847, contains an interesting
article on the Political Geography of Brazil, by Senhor de Sousa,
a native statician. I subjoin a few particulars.
"In 1766 the population was..................... 1,500,000
1798.................................... 3,000,000
1815 (1819?) according to Velloso............ 4,396,000
1845 (assumed to be)....................... 7,360,000."
In the ten northern provinces he estimates 3,480,000, being
29 persons to a square league. To the principal city, Bahia,
he awards 150,000.
It is agreed, he observes, that the five southern provinces
contain 2,530,000, being 84 to each square league. Rio de
Janeiro, the chief city, he says, contains 250,000. (In 1807
its population was 50,000.)
Populagdo aproximada das    Em 1815.          Em 1845.
provincias. 
Paris...............        173,000           260,000
Maranhao...........     200,000           280,000
Piauhy..............         61,000           150,000
Ceara...............        210,000           350,000
Rio Grande do Norte..         71,000           160,000
Parahiba............         96,000           240,000
Pernambuco.........       369,000           800,000
Alagoas.............        112,000           200,000
Sergipe........           115,000           140,000
Bahia..............        478,000           900,000
Espirito Santo........       73,000            60,000
Rio de Janeirot.......      510,000          1,400,000
S. Paulo.........       321,000           800,000
Santa Catharina......        44,000            80,000
Rio Grande..........         79,000           190,000
Minas Geraes.......         622,000          1,130,000
Goyaz...............         33,000           120,000
Matto Grosso........         38,000           100,000
Indios nao domestic...      800,000
Total da povoaCqo..     4,396,000         7,360,000
* This number is said, on what authority I know not, to be less than that of the
aborigines at the period of the conquest.
t " It is very difficult to arrive at a correct knowledge of the population of




432                     SKETCHES OF
To the three central provinces Sousa assigns 1,350,000, being 14 to each league. The most considerable town, Ouro-Preto
(Black Gold), the capital of Minas Geraes, has 20,000 inhabitants.
As nothing like positive data was within this writer's reach,
the above, it will be perceived, is given merely as an approximation.  Had the untamed Indians been carried over to the
latter column of the preceding table, the number would have
been swelled to over eight millions. Of subdivisions he makes
2,160,000 Whites.                3,120,000 Negro Slaves.
1,100,000 Free Colored.            180,000 Free Blacks.
800,000 Domesticated Indians.
He here introduces the same number of tamed Indians as
wild ones were counted by Velloso. From reliable sources of
information, I should say the figures opposite the whites and
free colored should be transposed. The number of inhabitants
hle assigns to Rio appears to me too high, and it would still
appear so had he included the army in it.
-Diseacses. -The worst forms of rheumatism occur in Rio-of
persons utterly deprived of- the use of their limbs. One lady
of my acquaintance has lain for years in that condition. Persons living on ground floors, in low situations, one would think
could hardly escape. The air is so excessively moist, almost
all the streets low and flooded during the rainy season, while
the soil is saturated with water, which, on digging two or three
feet, every where oozes up.
But that which most startles a stranger is the hydrocele
and some kindred affections. At first lie will be inclined to
think every third or fourth man he meets is ruptured.  Many
are so, especially among the blacks, but the cause of the enlargement is generally dropsy of the parts-a complaint that is
universal, and worse in Bahia than in Rio.  It is not confined
to adults: boys are afflicted by it. Young men from Europe
seldom escape over a year or two. It is so common as to be
Brazil. According to the Political Annual of 1846 and correct information, the
province of Rio de Janeiro contains a million of slaves. Before consulting that
work, I had supposed the whole population of the province was nine hundred thousand.                                         F. NUNES DE SOUSA."
Nothing can be more expressive of uncertainty than this note.




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   433
little thought of by those troubled with it. Comparatively few
undergo what is termed the radical cure, but have the water
drawn off every few months.
Examples of what is named elephantiasis of the parts —excrescent accumulations within the scrotum-are somewhat common. Successful removals of these by the knife frequently
occur in the Mizericordia. In a recent case a mass weighing
thirty pounds was removed. There is a poor fellow, a Western
Islander, seen about the streets, in whom the tumor reaches
nearly to his ankles. Another man, about forty years of age,
is unable to go on his feet, but is drawn on a four-wheeled
truck by a negro.
Some ascribe these maladies to the water drunk: the Paullistas attribute the bronchocele among them to the same cause;
but there is no doubt among the most enlightened physicians
that the hydrocele is wholly due to the combined influence of
the heat and moisture of the climate. These so relax the system that it becomes essential for young and old to wear bandages.
Girls, from diseases peculiar to them, eat earth, chalk, wax,
and even the red crockery-ware or water-pots, breaking off
portions and nibbling it. This appears more common than in
temperate zones. The passion for these things is often so
strong, and so secretly gratified, that the victims often die before their friends are aware of the cause. Some are saved by
the timely application of masks. Negro girls are equally sub-,
ject to this disease.
The first examples of goltre I ever saw met me here-white
women with monstrous swellings in front of their necks. The
complaint does not appear extensively prevalent, but in the adjoining province of St. Paul's the greater part of the population
is said to be subject to it.
The Diario of May 6th, 1846, gives the number of deaths in
Rio for one year preceding, viz., 4498. Of these there were,
White males............ 1839   Black males............. 1020
"  females............. 997    " females............ 642
The largest number of deaths occurred in December, and the
least in March.  Six hundred and sixty-seven died of tuberculosis pulmonalis. Seven hundred and ninety-five perished
E E




434                 SKETCHES OF
under the age of one year; twenty-eight had seen eighty-one
years, and twelve nearly ninety; one had reached his hundred
and eighth year, and three departed in their hundred and fourteenth. Very nearly two fifths of the whole expired in public
institutions: one thousand and sixty-two in the Mizericordia;
seventeen in the Lazaretto; one hundred and sixty-one in the
Marine Hospital, and one hundred and one in the Military Hospital; thirty eight in the House of Correction; three hundred
and forty-five in the House of Exposed Infants; five in the
City Prison; and fifty-one bodies "found drowned." Nineteen
died in religious convents.
From this account of Death's doings, the population of Rio
may, to a certain extent, be inferred. That the climate is favorable to prolonged life is evident from the foregoing facts.
The national income is stated at nearly thirteen millions of
dollars, and the expenses at fourteen and a quarter millions.
Last year (1845) the deficit was about four millions. The emperor's salary is four hundred thousand dollars; the empress
receives forty-eight thousand; the emperor's sister, Joinville's
wife, has a pension of fifty one thousand dollars per annum,
and the emperor's mother-in-law twenty-five thousand; the infant prince, six thousand; Amelia, a half-sister, three thousand,
etc. Such is the provision for the bodies of the imperial family, while for their souls forty-five thousand four hundred and
thirty-eight dollars are expended annually on the little Imperial Chapel alone. There are forty-eight public schools in the
AMLunicipio da Corte, thirty-one for girls and seventeen for boys,
which are sustained at a cost of eighteen thousand four hundred and sixty dollars. In last year's budget the amount was
uineteen thousand two hundred dollars.
The police of Rio is military. The men, enlisted for some
years, are drilled and commanded by army officers. They are
mostly colored. They are considered expert, and so, indeed.
are the thieves. A rich old lady at Boto-Fogo was often visited by the old king and his family. One evening a number of
carriages drove up, with attendants in regal livery. The party
entered, seized and secured the lady and servants, rifled the.
house, and departed. Two of them, in livery, stood at the door
the whole time, as if in attendance on their masters. Last




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   435
year, on the eve of St. Anthony, a gang entered a house, and
while some plundered it, others stood on the balcony firing off
rockets, like the neighbors, in honor of the saint.
There are few capital punishments in Rio. Several years
have elapsed since a white person was executed.
It is said there is little demand for native literature, and less
encouragement to meet that little.  The MJlinerva Brasiliense,
a very interesting miscellany, has, after a feeble existence of
two years, recently expired.
I was shown seven beautiful colored lithographs of native
birds, the first of a contemplated series by a Brazilian Audubon.
I regret that his name has escaped me. Rich in enthusiasm.
but poor in pecuniary means, he no sooner realizes a few milreis than he starts for the woods, studies the habits and attitudes of each living subject, draws it, shoots it, and returns to
transfer his figures to stone. He has not subscribers enough to
meet his very moderate wants.
The public library contains about eighty thousand volumes,
and occupies a building formerly belonging to the Carmelites.
As these friars, in the contest for independence, adhered to Portugal, the premises were seized for public purposes, Pedro at that
time being strongly disposed to rid the country of every monk
in it. The library is an honor to the city. Every person in
decent attire, white or colored, has free access; and if he wishes
to make extracts, pens, ink, and paper are furnished. I seldom
found more than half a dozen visitors, and the majority were
young men of color-a fact corroborative of what I had repeatedly heard of the ambitious character of this part of the population.
Rio has four daily (morning) papers. The.Diario is the oldest one in Brazil, being in its twenty-fifth year. It is a sheet
twenty-six inches by eighteen, and has an extensive patronage.
Devoted chiefly to domestic affairs, its notices of Church and
other matters are interesting to inquiring strangers.  To city
subscribers twelve, and to country do. sixteen milreis per annum.
The Sentinel of iXonarchy, of limited circulation.
The Jornal do Commercio, the largest sheet, has the widest
circulation.  It is twenty-nine by twenty-two inches, in its
twenty-first year, ably edited by its French proprietor, and




436                 SKETCHES OF
justly considered the best conducted and chief commercial paper in the country. It is the organ of the government, and
published every morning except on holy days, a term which
does not include Sundays. To its city patrons the charge is
twenty milreis, and when sent into the provinces twenty-four do.
0.iiercantil, of the same dimensionsi is put at a lower price,
sixteen milreis. It is eleven years old, and is pushing its claims
to official patronage on the ground of being entirely a native
sheet.
The character of the Brazilians, I should say, is that of a hospitable, affectionate, intelligent, and aspiring people. They are
in advance of their Portuguese progenitors in liberality of sentiment and in enterprise. Many of their young men visit Europe,
others are educated in the United States; add to this an increasing intercourse with foreigners —the means ordained by
Divine Providence for human improvement-and who does not
rejoice in their honorable ambition, and in the career opened
before them? It must be remembered, however, that no one
people can be a standard for any other, for no two are in the
same circumstances and conditions. The influence of climate,
we know, is omnipotent, and from their occupying one of the
largest and finest portions of the equatorial regions, it is for
them to determine how far science and the arts within the tropics can compete with their progress in the temperate zones. As
respects progress, they are, of Latin nations, next to the French.
In the Chambers are able and enlightened statesmen, and the
representatives of the empire abroad are conceded to rank in
talent with the embassadors of any other country. As foi
material elements of greatness, no people under the sun are more
highly favored, and none have a higher destiny opened before
them. May they have the wisdom to achieve it.
Among lithographic scenes of life in Rio, designed and published by native artists, those relating to the slaves are not the
least conspicuous. There is no more fastidiousness, that I observed, about portraying them in shackles than in their labors
and their pastimes. The one at the head of the opposite page
represents common punishments: a negra in a mask, and a negro wearing the usual pronged collar, with a shackle round one
ankle, and secured to a chain suspended from his waist.




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   437
It is said slaves in masks
are not so often encountered
in the streets as formerly,
because of a growihlg public
feeling against them. I met
but three or four, and in
each case the sufferer was a
female. The mask is the reputed ordinary punishment
and preventative of drunkenness. As the baril is often chained to the slave that
_ j   _      <~~~~  ~bears it, to prevent him from
selling it for rum, so the
mask is to hinder him or her from conveying the liquor to the
mouth, below which the metal is continued, and opposite to
which there is no opening.
Observing one day masks hanging out for sale at a tin and sheet
iron store, I stopped to examine
them, and subsequently borrowed
one, from  which the annexed
sketch is taken.  Except a projecting piece for the nose, the metal is simply bent cylinder-wise.
Minute holes are punched to admit air to the nostrils, and similar ones in front of the eyes. A jointed strap (of metal) on each
side goes round below the ears (sometimes two), and meets one
that passes over the crown of the head. A staple unites and a
padlock secures them.
At most of the smiths' shops collars are exposed, as horseshoes are with our blacksmiths; at one shop in Rua das Violas
there was quite a variety, with gyves, chains, etc. Most of the
collars were of five-eighths-inch round iron, some with one
prong, others with two, and some with none except a short upright tubular lock.
Here, too, were the heaviest and cruelest instruments of torture-shackles for binding the ankles and wrists close together,
and consequently doubling the bodies of the victims into the




438                 SKETCHES OF
most painful and unnatural positions.  Had I not seen them, I
could hardly have thought such things were. While making a
memorandum of their form and dimensions, the proprietor or his
adjutant, a black man, in his shirt sleeves, came from the rear,
and handling them, spoke by way of recommending them, supposing I was a customer.  They were made of bar iron, three
inches wide and three eighths of an
inch thick!  Each consisted of three
pieces, bent, jointed, and fastened, as
shown in the margin. The large openings were for the legs, the smaller for
the wrists.  A screw-bolt drew the;straight parts close together.  One of
the joints is shown above. The distance from joint to joint was two feet.
Such are the tortures which slaves privately endure in the
cellars, garrets, and out-houses of their masters.  T, a native merchant, says another common punishment is to inclose
the legs in wooden shackles or stocks. Some owners fasten
their hands in similar devices, and some, again, retain relies of
the old thumb-screws to lock those members together.  In the
northern provinces, he says, the slaves are much worse used than
in Rio; that it is no uncommon thing to tie their hands and feet
together, hoist them off the ground, and then "beat them as
near to death as possible." A heavy log fastened by a chain to
the neck or leg of a slave who has absconded, or who is supposed to be inclined to run away, is a usual punishment and
precaution. He is compelled to labor with it, laying it on the
ground when at work, and bearing it under his arm or on his
shoulder when he moves.
I observed one day a slave wearing a collar, the largest and
roughest of hundreds I have seen. It is
represented in the margin. Of inch round
iron, with a hinge in the middle, made by
bending the metal of its full size into loops,
the open ends flattened and connected by a
half-inch rivet. The upright bar terminated in a death's head, which reached above
that of the wearer, and to it another piece,




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   439
in the form of the letter S, was welded. The joint galled him,
for he kept gathering portions of his canvas shirt under it. Rest
or sleep would seem impossible.
A Bahian planter, the brother of an ex-councilor, dined with
us one day, and spoke with much freedom on slavery. With
most men, he thinks the land can never be cultivated in the
northern provinces by whites. The city slaves of Bahia, he
said, are principally Minas. Shrewd and intelligent, they preserve their own language, and by that means organize clubs
and mature schemes of revolution which their brethren of Pernambuco have repeatedly attempted to carry out. Some write
Arabic fluently, and are vastly superior to most of their masters. In the interior, he remarked, the slaves are badly fed,
worse clothed, and worked so hard that the average duration of
their lives does not exceed six years. In some districts it reaches to eight, while the number that see ten years after leaving
Africa is small indeed. Deceptions are played off on foreign
agents of the Slavery Commissions. These visit the Engenhos
once or twice a year. The planters, informed when they set
out, have their slaves decently garbed and well oiled, to make
them look supple and in good condition. On a late visit, the
examiners were so highly gratified that one left, and wrote home
a flattering account of the treatment of the helots. The other
continued his inquiries, came to a fazenda where he was not
looked for, and there beheld what he did not expect-a negro
about to be boiled to death for some act of insubordination.
His owner had invited, according to custom in such cases,
neighboring proprietors to witness the tragedy.
From the little I have seen, I should suppose the country
slaves are the worst off. Every morning, while nature was enshrouded in blackness of darkness, did I hear them driving
wagons through the thick mist, and as late as ten at night were
they shouting at the oxen as the jolting and groaning wheels
rolled by. (This was, however, in the busiest season.) I often
wondered how they found their way over the horrid roads, how
their naked feet and limbs escaped unharmed, and how they
then worked in the fields, unless their pupils had the expansile
and contractile powers of night animals.
On large estates, a few days' rest are given them every three




440                  SKETCHES OF
or four weeks during the sugar season, but on smaller ones,
where owners commonly have difficulty to keep out of debt,
they fare badly, and are worked to death. Staggering into
their huts, or dropping where their labors close, hardly do their
aching bones allow the Angel of Sleep to drive away the memory of their sorrows, than two demons, lurking in the bell and
lash, awaken them to fresh tortures., To say these poor creatures are better off than when ranging their native lands is an
assertion that language lacks the power justly to describe. It
may be true, if the life of an omnibus hack is better than that
of a wild horse of Texas. I would rather, a thousand times, be
a sheep, pig, or ox, have freedom, food, and rest for a season,
and then be knocked on the head, than be a serf on some plantations. I say some, because there are in Brazil, as in other
lands, humane planters.
Suicides continually occur, and owners wonder.  The highsouled Minas, both men and women, are given to self-destruction. Rather than endure life on the terms it is offered, many
of them end it. Then they that bought them grind their teeth
and curse them, hurl imprecations after their flying spirits, and
execrate the saints that let them go. If individuals are ever
justified in using the power Heaven has placed in their hands
to terminate at once their earthly existence, it must be these.
Those who blame them for putting the only barrier between
them and oppression could not endure half their woes. And
how characteristic of human frailties! Here are slave-dealers
who weep over the legendary sufferings of a saint, and laugh at
worse tortures they themselves inflict; who shudder at the
names of old persecutors, and dream not of the armies of martyrs they make yearly; who cry over Protestants as sinners
doomed to perdition, and smile in anticipation of their own reception in the realms above by Anthony and Loyala, Benedict
and Becket.
Rich people who lose a slave by suicide or flight scarcely feel
the loss, but to many families the loss is ruinous. There are
not a few that live on the earnings of one or two helots.  The
papers are constantly noticing the flight of slaves who have
manumitted themselves by escaping across a river their oppressors dare not attempt, since they there become denizens of




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                  441
a country in which Brazilian process can not be served. They
unsheath their spirits, and leave the scabbards for their masters.
It is only suicides reported by the police that become publicly known. Were all recorded, every issue of the daily press
would, I am told, contain more or less. Instances that have
occurred within the last few weeks are here taken from the
iDiario.
June 22-24. " In the parish of Sta. Anna, an inquest was
held on the body of the black, Justo, who killed himself by
hanging. He was the slave of Major Jose de Paiva e Silva.
Also on the body of the slave Rita, who destroyed herself by
drowning. The body of a black, in a state of putrefaction, was
found, thrown ashore by the tide, on the beach near the Public
Garden."
July 1. The body of one was found near the Carioco Fountain; another, a female, in another parish, had released her spirit
with a rope-" suicidou-se com um bara9o."  July 5. Another,
in a fit of despair, precipitated himself from an upper window
upon a mass of granite. 23d. The slave Luiz Pharoux killed
himself with a rope. 24th. The slaves Pedro and Camillo by
strangulation. August 1. Another drowned himself on the
Praya Manoel.  On the 4th, my last day in Brazil, one was
lying on the rocks at the city end of the Gloria Beach, washed
up by the tide. He was apparently under thirty years of age.
As I stood looking down on him, a Mozambique girl came along,
put her basket on the low wall near me, dropped a tear on the
corpse, and passed on.
When the means of suspension are not at hand, it is no unusual thing for high-minded Africans, of both sexes, to expire
under circumstances surpassing aught that history records.
Some draw ligatures tight round their throats, lie down, and deliberately die. Others, I am told, have the art of folding back
their tongues so as to prevent respiration, and thus resolutely
perish.
I dined one Sunday with a party at the beautiful and hospitable retreat of Messrs. M   and M'G, at Boto-Fogo.
Strolling alone up an adjacent mount, I was very much startled
by two of the most frightful-looking and importunate of human




442                 SKETCHES OF
beings rushing suddenly out of the bushes in front of me. Negroes of middle age, and wholly naked, except filthy rags round
their loins, each had an iron ring about his neck connected by
an ox-chain to shackles at his ankles. By another chain one
hand of each were locked together. They bent forward, kneeled, held out their arms, sobbed, cried, screamed, and made such
frightfully agonizing supplications, that I have often thought
neither criminals condemned to die, nor even souls in Purgatory,
could make more moving appeals. Poor fellows! I did not
make out what they asked for-money, victuals, or intercession
with their master, the owner of the hill and of a neighboring
quarry, in which he employed over two hundred slaves. These
two had attempted to escape, and, when not at work, were ordered to this sequestered spot and forbidden to leave it.
August 5. After taking leave of friends, communion with
whom will ever be among the most precious of reminiscences, I
went on board the Mazeppa, and bade farewell to one of the
richest sections of the planet.
Rumors of war with Mexico rendered a convoy desirable, and
the old Constitution escorted us home. Besides our vessel,
there were five others, brigs and barks, bound for Baltimore,
Philadelphia, and New York. To each vessel the commodore
sent instructions and drawings of flags by which lie would communicate with her. It may interest landsmen to know how an
intelligent correspondence is kept up between vessels at great
distances apart. A red flag hoisted on board the frigate was an
intimation that she was about to communicate with our vessel;
a blue one told us to "wear ship;" a red one, with a square
patch in the centre, to " tack siip;" a flag half blue and half
white, diagonally separated, " close in with the Constitution;"
a white flag, with a blue cross extending over it, " come within
hail;" red and blue, diagonally divided, " heave to;" red and
white, diagonal, " make sail;" all white, " shorten sail;" a flag
of four equal squares, two diagonal ones red and two white,
"haul by the wind," etc.
Our night-signals were guns and blue-lights. If we fell in
with a strange vessel in the night, we were to signal the frigate
with two of the latter.
At 4 P.M. the Constitution showed the jack at the fore and




LIFE IN BRAZIL.                   443
fired a gun-the signal for sailing-and presently every vessel
was under weigh, following the frigate out.
Roug.h weather set in, and dispersed us as chaff; it continued, and swept away our fowls, turkeys, and boats, and five days
after starting, so far from having progressed a mile homeward,
we were leagues south of Rio. On the ninth the frigate was
in sight, or, as the sailors expressed themselves, the old hen
and four of her chickens, from her gathering the fleet about her.
I had a sloth, a large lizard, and a paca on board. The former
began to strengthen the prophecies of some friends that it would
not live through half the voyage; the others seemed unaffected
by the sea.
One day I was much interested for two hours in watching a couple of Cape pigeons playing round the ship. They
wheeled across the bows, turned close under the stern, sometimes within seven feet of me, tame, apparently, as street pigeons. Their movements, and those of the small gulls in Rio
Bay, almost convinced me that some element of buoyancy and
of progress, other than the mechanical operation of their wings,
is called into action.  Without vibrating their expanded wings
(I was close enough to detect the slightest flicker), they rose,
descended, skimmed along the water surface, shot up, and
wheeled again and again. They move those organs less than
any birds I have seen, though I am told the albatross resembles
them in that respect.
We crossed the line on the 19th of August, with all the fleet
in sight. On the 27th the sloth died. I fed it with thin slices
of yam after bananas gave out, but it pined gradually away,
hanging by the stick on which it was brought out of the woods.
After a voyage of fifty days we landed at New York, our comrades having dropped off at Chesapeake Bay and Cape Henlopen, while the frigate passed on to Boston.








APPENDIX.
A.
ILLUSTRATIONS OF ANCIENT SOUTH AMERICAN ARTS: POTTERY.-STONEWARE AND WORKS IN METAL UNDER THE INCAS.-MODERN CARVINGS.
Relics of American arts are of peculiar interest, inasmuch as they are connected
with the solution of one of the greatest problems in human history. Here is one
half of the planet without a page of written record, without legends or traditions.
From its first occupancy, at a period whose date no one can tell or even conjecture,
down to comparatively recent days, it presents to the historian, instead of a chronicle of dynasties, of stirring actions and mighty events, a huge and silent blanknot the name of an individual, nor the sound of a footfall, preserved. Comparatively speaking, it was but yesterday that the continents were discovered, and the
fact of their being in possession of a peculiar race proclaimed to the rest of the
world; and now, as then, there is little more information to be obtained from the
Indians respecting their predecessors than from the native quadrupeds. Whatever
is to be known has to be drawn out of the ground; out of what the plow turns
up; what mounds, graves, and existing earth-works may disclose, and what architectural ruins may afford. These are the only archives remaining of the deeds and
destinies of the old inhabitants of the hemisphere; and hence every thing registered in them, however trifling under other circumstances it might be considered,
has a value proportioned to the insight it may give into national or social habits
and conditions.
The American aborigines are melting away. A change in terrestrial occupancy
on such a scale is an episode unparalleled in the history of our globe; and though
we who live during its accomplishment are in a manner indifferent to its magnitude, and to its bearings on the destinies of the species in coming times, it will be
discussed and referred to in the distant future as one of ever-memorable significance.
Poor themselves, the red tribes have made others wealthy. Besides bequeathing
to us the richest of earthly inheritances, their contributions to the great staples of
commerce are unprecedented. To say nothing of the fur-trade, nor of the metals
in unparalleled profusion, of bread-plants they gave us the potato, maize, and mandioca; of poultry, the turkey is an example; and of raw materials for manufactures, india-rubber is another. Of timber for ship-building and furniture, we are
indebted to them for mahogany, rose, satin, and at least two hundred varieties of
ornamental and dye woods. In medicine, quinine, jalap, and ipecacuanha readily
occur, besides a list of plants, including tobacco, which have become necessities to
such a degree that nations would stand aghast if threatened to be deprived of them.
To a people to whom we owe so much, the least we can do is to gather up for posterity whatever memorials of them may fall in our way.
General Alvares, the last Spanish political chief and commandant of the province of Cuzco, made up during his administration a varied and valuable collection




446                          APPENDIX.
of antiques. Arriving at Rio de Janeiro (on his way to Spain), he disposed of
them there. To the politeness of the purchaser-Seihor Barboza, a Brazilian gentleman of great learning and of antiquarian tastes-I was indebted for opportunities to examine them. No account of them has been published till now, and it
is doubtful if any modern volume contains a finer assemblage of antiquities of the
kind.
For the purposes of classification and description, the articles are arranged in
groups, according to the principal material in each, while the accompanying illustrations may be viewed as so many pattern-cards of pottery, stoneware, hardware.
works in silver, gold, and champi (said to be an alloy of copper and gold, or of
copper and silver).
Earthenware.
The first figure, a, is of special interest, from its historical associations, and the
light it reflectsupon one of the modes by which Peruvians perpetuated the features
and characters of prominent men. A drinking-vessel of a reddish clay, it stands
nine inches high, has an internal depth of six inches, and is two inches across the
mouth. It belongs to a class of vessels of which, it is supposed, there are not over
two or three extant, viz., vase-busts. It represents the head of the famous Cacique
Ruminhauy. The features are strongly developed, and with indisputable traits of
an individual's portrait. A deep wound is shown on the right cheek; the eyes
and upper teeth are prominent; a front tooth is left out, and the place for it distinctly marked. The hair is dressed in plaited cords. The ears are small, unpierced, and well modeled, the upper lobes being level with the under eyelids.
The border of the tire or head-dress is handsomely notched in front and twisted behind. The round base, as well as the rest, was modeled by hand, and by the hand
of an expert too. It will be remembered that in the Old World baked clay busts
and relievos preceded marble statuary.
Instead of carousing, like the savage Scandinavians, and others professing morc
refinement, from the skulls of the conquered, the Peruvians employed these harmless imitations, and anticipated a branch of art which modern potters might usefully extend much farther than they have yet attempted.
Ruminhauy, or Rumminaui, stands out in horrid relief in the Commentaries of
Garcilasso de la Vega. After the death of Atahualpa, he schemed to succeed him.
With this view he invited the brother of the murdered Inca, his sons and daughters.
and some chiefs whom he could not rely on, to a feast, at which he introduced, besides the ordinary drinks, a spirituous liquor named sora. His object was accomplished. His guests indulged in it, became intoxicated and helpless, and he slew
them. He covered a drum with the skin of Atahualpa's brother, leaving the scalpe
hanging to it. He subsequently buried alive a number of females, old and young.
under circumstances of unusual barbarity. " Thus did this barbarous tyrant discover more unhumane cruelty and relentless bowels by this murther committed on
poor silly women, who knew nothing but how to spin and weave, than by his
bloody treachery practiced on stout soldiers and martial men. And what farther
aggravates his crime was, that he was there present to see the execution of his
detestable sentence, being more pleased with the objects of his cruelty, and his eyes
more delighted with the sad and dismal sight of so many perishing virgins, than
with any other prospect. * * * * * Thus ended these poor virgins, dying
only for a little feigned laughter, which transported the tyrant beyond his senses.
But this villainy passed not unpunished, for after many other outrages he had committed during the time of his rebellion against the Spaniards, and after some skir



APPENDIX.           447
*X,
7            ~



448                            APPENDIX.
er red than the preceding, it is ornamented with black lines and spots. There are
two openings into this vessel, one at the left ear, through which it was charged,
and a small one at the back, near the bottom, to draw off the contents. Capacity,
three pints. c, another red vase, whose form and ornaments indicate good taste in
the artist, whoever he was. On the opposite side the remains of a painted panel
are visible, and within it the figures marked c'. d, d', are front and edge views of
a flat bottle, eight inches in diameter. Of a bright red, the upper half is ornamented with black, white, greenish, and purple lines (not shown in the figure). Two
cobras, or double-headed snakes, are on each side. The vase e is ornamented all
round, but less on the side represented. It has three features characteristic of vessels carried about the person: loops to sling it by, a conical bottom, and a stud
projecting from the swell equidistant from each loop. Whatever was the object of
these studs, they seem to have been carried next the person, since they are always
found on the plain or least decorated sides. Besides the loops, a couple of small
holes are made in ears close to the rim, as if to pass twine through. The vase f
has been employed in heating liquids; marks of fire are perceptible. Most of the
colored ornaments are gone. g is a beautifully-formed vase. The stud is colored
white, and the panel is drawn in black on the usual pale-red surface. The capacity about three pints. h is somewhat smaller, of the same general outlines, but
differing in colored ornaments. i, a square bottle of the same material as all the
preceding. It is seven inches high, and four across each side. The top is flat,
projects a little all round, and more so at the corners. The contents were poured
in at the top, and drawn out at the small opening near the bottom. Both openings
are protected by raised borders. This vase, so like those in modern liquor-cases
(the second figure b, and probably others), was certainly not designed to hold water,
but for keeping more precious liquids, and spirituous liquors in all probability.
That the Peruvians had such is well known. Acosta says of one that it induced
intoxication much quicker than wine; and the strength of sora was such as almost instantly to prostrate those that indulged in it. Its use was prohibited by several of the Incas, under the penalty of death. j, j' are front and end views of a
vase in the form of a shield, of very small dimensions. k, a minute bottle, rather
roughly formed, decorated with lines sunk in the surface. 1, a traveling-vase.
The face is well brought out, and the whole elaborately painted. m, a larger one,
holding near two quarts, and elaborately ornamented. n is of a yellowish clay,
and has been profusely embellished; but, except traces of the pencil here and there,
all is obliterated. The lip has a recess to receive a plug. This bottle is supposed
to be the oldest in the collection. o, a minute pitcher, but prettily embellished in
black and yellow.  Having a rounded and convex bottom, it was necessarily suspended by the handle. p, another bottle with a flat bottom, nearly five inches in
diameter, and of the same height, neck included. The front part has been tastefully painted, and the large handle also. The weight scarcely exceeds a quarter
of a pound. q, a long-necked bottle without a handle, and designed for a traveler,
as the loops and stud declare. The opposite side is decorated; the one shown is
left plain. This vase is nearly eight inches high, of which the neck makes four
inches. At the swell it is four and a half inches in diameter. r, a drinking-cup
not quite four inches high. The diameter at top is rather less, and at bottom two
inches. A golden cup from the tomb of an Inca is of precisely the same figure,
but less than half the size, and raised without solder from a flat piece of exceedingly thin metal. s, t, u, v, w, x, y, are specimens of thirteen plates or shallow pipkins, varying from three to thirteen inches across, and rarely exceeding half an
inch in depth. Most of them have handles, terminating with the head of a bird.




APPENDIX.                                 449
All are ornamented within, none without.  The colors are black, red, white, and
yellow, the last looking like unburnished gold.  Except such as have recurved or
ring-shaped handles, all have studs at the rims; and some of these projections have
small perforations, probably to insert loops of twine to suspend them against the
walls, instead of resting them on shelves. Those marked s, t, were found in 1820
in a huaca near Saint Sebastian, one league from Cuzco. z and a 1 are of stonelike texture. a 3, a pot or crucible cover; a fox's head imitated on the handle.
To this ancient pottery I have added a modern Peruvian specimen, a 2, a small vase
in my possession. Its material, a red clay, is similar to that of the preceding. It
is rudely formed, ill burnt, and the ornamental work immeasurably worse done than
what the old potters turned out.
There were a few other small matters intended for the preceding group of figures,
but which have been accidentally omitted. One was a whistle formed in the body
of a small bird of baked clay. The relic was very old, and the head missing. The
tone was shrill and clear, and was pleasantly modified by partially or wholly closing
with the finger an opening in the breast. There were also two whistles of cocoawood; one gave a triple sound, and was little larger than a thimble.
On casting a parting glance over this invoice of pottery, and bearing in mind
that only samples of plates and saucers are inserted, it may appear surprising that
such numbers of fragile articles should have reached us without being damaged,
after passing through dark, turbulent, and indefinite periods of time.  But there is
something which explains that. By a superstition indigenous to all lands, people
without records have left their annals in their graves.  In the belief that their
wants and occupations would be the same in the spirit land as they were here, they
had their household and personal effects interred with them. Every Inca had his
cooking utensils in his cemetery; not only his gold and silver ware, but, observes
the native historian, "the plates and dishes of his kitchen."  We can scarcely regret the prevalence of a delusion which has been the means of making us acquainted with the arts and habits of peoples of whom we could otherwise have known
little, and posterity nothing-that is, by our making a proper use in this life of
things which they foolishly laid up for another. Indeed, those things seem intended by Providence as agents for preserving a knowledge of the successive stages of
human progress till barbarism is no more.
Utensils in Stone and WFocd.
I have here thrown together in outline a number of utensils whose use is not
ascertained.  All, save one, are carved in ston-e, and, with a single exception,
modeled after the llama and its relatives-the alpaca, huanaco, and vicuna.  It is
difficult to imagine them any thing else than mortars or salt-cellars.  The cavities
are represented by dotted lines. The bottoms of all are flat, and hence they were
evidently designed to stand alone, and to be used in the positions in which they are
figured.  There were twenty-one in the collection. Those omitted presented no peculiar features. (See next page for illustrations.)
The first one, marked C, is the largest, being six and a half inches long and four
inches deep. It is of gray basalt. The cavity is two inches deep, and three fourths
of an inch in diameter at the top, but rather wider below. The whole is well polished, and the surface mottled. B is three inches long, one and a half deep, and
as wide across the body. The stone is veined, and of a yellow tint, inclining to
green. It is jasper. A. Polished schistus; the upper half black, and the under
a palish yellow.  The body two inches long, and not quite so deep. (It is drawn
too large).  D and K. Both of schist; the former black, the latter darkish brown.
F F




450                         APPENDIX.
0 /N
~';,K-'-'"B "" ~                             I, /
t4
UTENSILS IN STONE AND WOOD.
E, of alabaster; the cavity is less than an inch in depth, and not quite half an inch
in diameter. F is schist, or soapstone; surface black, and covered with rings
scratched on it, with dots in their centres. G, H, L, 0, P, Q, of various stonestwo of steatite; and the rest as easily cut, except one of granite. Their dimensions vary but slightly from those already given. I, a calcareous stone, wrought
in imitation of a bear or hippopotamus. N is of hard wood, four and a half inches
long, and two inches deep. The eyes are plugs of gold, of the form and position
represented. M is one of a couple whose lineaments have become almost entirely destroyed by time.
An extract from Von Tschudi will add to the interest of these relics:
"Under the dynasty of the Incas, when any useful plant and animal was an object of veneration, the Peruvians rendered almost divine worship to the llama and
his relatives, which exclusively furnished them with wool for clothing, and with
flesh for food. The temples were adorned with large figures of these animals, made
of gold and silver, and their forms were represented in domestic utensils of stone
and clay. In the valuable collection of B. C. Von Hiigel, of Vienna, there arefour
of these vessels, composed of porphyry, basalt, and granite, representing the four
species, viz., the llama, alpaca, huanaco, and vicuna. These antiquities are exceedingly scarce, and when I was in Peru I was unable to obtain any of them.




APPENDIX.                                451
How the ancient Peruvians, without the aid of iron tools, were able to carve stone
so beautifully, is inconceivable."
Implements and Utensils in Stone.
In the following group, the first figure, A, represents a small and neatly-cut
stone vessel. I think it was used over the fire. It is only four inches in diameter,
and one and a half inches in depth. B is a pestle, of hard and finely-grained
granite, and black with age. A wild cat, or panther, is sculptured on the upper
part, and forms a not inconvenient handle. C, a round, black, and exceedingly
hard stone, regularly formed as in a lathe, is nearly seven inches in diameter, and
three and a half inches deep. It is a mortar; the cavity indicated by the dotted
lines. D, D', a view and section of a silversmith's crucible. E is another. One
was of clay, the other of a species of soapstone. Neither exceeded two inches in
depth or diameter.
IMPLEMENTS AND UTENSILS IN STONE
1       2 EE  4
IMPLEMENTS AND UTENSILS IN STONE.
I am not aware of any large-sized ancient crucibles having been recovered; yet
the old founders had them, since they turned out castings of several hundred pounds'
wcight.  Examples abound in the early historians.  Gomarra mentions basins in




452                          APPENDIX.
a bath belonging to Atabalipa, " one of which weighed eight arrobas of gold, which
makes two hundred weight English."  In a vault at Cuzco " an entire sepulchre
[coffin] of silver was dug up, so thick and massive that it was worth fifty thousand
pieces of eight."  A vessel of gold was accidentally found, and it weighed between
two and three hundred pounds; " for the Indians make greater or less of these,
as occasion requires, using them to boil drink or liquors in." Now, as they had no
bellows, it may be asked how such masses of metal were fused. Garcilasso states
that in reducing silver from the ore, " they melted it down in earthen or clay pots,
which they carried from place to place;" and that, instead of bellows, they used
blow-pipes " made of copper, and about a yard long, the ends of which were narrowed, that the breath might pass more forcibly by means of the contraction; and
as the fire was to be more or less, so accordingly they used ten or twelve of these
pipes at once, as the quantity of metal did require. And still they continue this
way, though the invention of bellows much more easier and forcibly raises the fire."
The instrument represented at F F' I naturally enough took for a smoothingiron, or an old American substitute for that indispensable implement of our laundresses, but I was greatly mistaken. It is an ancient plasterer's trowel, cut out of
one stone, handle and all. Its dimensions are those of the common sad-iron; the
face being four inches by three and a half, and a little over half an inch thick.
This is another of those coincidences of thought in inventors, far separated from
each other by distance or by time. Indeed, every discovery of new lands and
strange people has shown the uniformity of human efforts at mental and material
civilization, a result that has frequently excited surprise, but which ought not,
since it it unavoidable, being due not less to the earth herself and the laws impressed on her materials, than to man's organic structure. There are no mechanical, chemical, or other principles provided for one part of the globe, or for one race
of men, to the exclusion of others; and hence, wherever invoked, feebly or with
power, their manifestations must be more or less alike. To smooth the interior
surfaces of the walls of dwellings with a coating of plaster or clay was an instinctive suggestion, and coeval with it was the idea of the plasterer's trowel, in one or
more of its forms. From the remains of smooth and polished walls in Peru, Central America, and Mexico, it is probable that a finer finishing instrument than this
stone one was employed-most likely one of copper or silver: modern plasterers
use trowels of wood, and polish with blades of steel.
Fi:'ure G is a black, hard, and smoothly-polished stone, resembling an egg in
shape, used for working sheet-metal.  H is another "hollowing hammer" of ironstone, and one that might be employed with advantage by our tin, copper, and silver smiths. The groove worked round the middle was the universal device by
which handles were secured to primeval stone axes and hammers, viz., by bending
a hazel or other pliable rod twice round the indentation, and then twisting or lashing the two ends together. Blacksmiths to this day every where thus handle their
punches and chisels. I, a box two inches long, one deep, and seven eighths wide,
cut out of a soft, greenish-tinted stone. A Peruvian Indian from Cuzco says it
was a salt-box. J, an axe or hatchet, two inches deep, and two wide at the blade,
which is brought to a fine edge. The stone, though well polished, is not hard.
K, a box or chest, divided into eight equal compartments. The material is a
stone known as " Aza de Mosca," Fly's Wing. At the ends serpents are figured,
and at the sides a man and woman in high relief in a sitting posture. At their
feet the liquid contents were drawn out at two orifices, to which plugs or faucets
were adapted. On each side a couple of tigers are sculptured, whose heads and
protruded tongues stand out full an inch, their bodies being in low relief. For the




APPENDIX.                                453
sake of the head-dresses, the human figures-supposed to represent an Inca and
his wife-are enlarged and figured separately at L, M.
The object of this vessel is not obvious, except that it was for mixing liquids,
but whether for innocent or deceptive purposes does not appear. A plan of it is
below at K', showing channels of communication between the partitions at the bottom and along the sides. It will be perceived that the contents of cells 1, 6, 8, 3
were discharged at one orifice, while those of 2, 5, 4, 7 ran out at the other.
Works in Bronze.
Next in interest to a personal interview with half a dozen ancient Peruvian
founders-could they be called up from the dead to hold communion with uswould be a daguerreotype picture of them in the midst of their implements and
processes, and next to that are opportunities of examining articles produced by
them. The information thus obtained is reliable as far as it goes; and as metallic
antiques accumulate, so will our knowledge of their authors, until we shall be in
possession of details of their fabrication. All the articles in the following group
have been cast, and some are remarkable specimens of casting.
1. Aj. I!e''
P,
E N                lDllR
IMPLEMENTS IN COPPER AND BRONZE.
A 1, a staff of solid bronze, two feet and a half long, exclusive of the wild-cat




454                          APPENDIX.
on the end of the handle. See this end enlarged at R. The part grasped by the
hand was six inches long, and nearly an inch and a half thick. Two crosses were
sunk deep in it, one opposite the other, and between them two other indentations
of the figure of R'. The handle terminates below in a handsome bulge or swell,
inlaid with net-work of silver. The rest, being plain and tapered, requires no notice. The cord by which the staff was slung over the arm or secured to the wrist
remained attached: it passed between the feet of the animal. The entire instrument was one casting.
Three kinds of official batons have been found, viz., in gold, silver, and bronze
-supposed to have been borne respectively by Incas, Curacas, and Caciques - a
classification that awards the one described to a chieftain of the latter class. The
crosses cast in the handle recall those met with by the early discoverers, to account
for which the legend of St. Thomas preaching in America was introduced. As a
mythic symbol, the figure is known to be more ancient than Christianity, both in
the East and the West. Whether employed as one by the aboriginies Garcilasso
was uncertain. He describes a cross of jasper or marble, suspended by a golden
chain, in the Inca's apartments at Cuzco, and much esteemed. The Spaniards
seized it; and when he left his native city for Europe (in 1560), it was hanging
by a ribbon in the vestry of the cathedral church. It was only a few fingers'
breadth in size, and in form resembled that figured at R, the transverse bar being
equal to and running across the middle of the upright one.
The plates A, D, H are respectively three, three and a half, and four inches in
diameter, and vary from one sixteenth to three sixteenths of an inch in thickness.
They are slightly concave on one side, and convex on the other. Two are of copper, and one of bronze. The difference is perceptible in their weight-the alloyed
one being, of course, the lightest. One is so covered with rust as to resemble iron.
I took them for mirrors; but they do not seem to have been polished. In the
catalogue they are named breastplates. They are cast; and marks where the two
halves of the moulds met are visible in the holes by which they were suspended.
F is one of two plates of silver. B, C, E, G are bronze hair or dress pins. E,
the most perfect, is four inches long, with a solid head and a rude wire ring soldered to the shank with silver solder, the first marked example of hard soldering I
have met with among old American metal wares. I, a knife. A cylindrical haft
three inches long, and not quite half an inch thick, connects the curved blade with
a disc or button, on which a fox or gamba is mounted, with a prey or young. one in
its mouth. The surface of the haft is dented, to imitate a cord, or something like
the plaited covering of a whip handle. In this particular the engraving does not
do it justice. The blade is half an inch deep, and not quite one eighth of an inch
thick at the back. There is positively no soldering, the whole having been cast complete. The alloy approaches, though it does not reach, the composition known as
gun-metal, whose ingredients for small articles are, an ounce and a half of tin to a
pound of copper, or about 10 per cent. The edge was rather easily cut by a penknife, and yet I think it was harder than gun-metal; but the difference, if any, in
this respect, is satisfactorily accounted for by the well-known impurity of South
American copper and tin. Both have to be refined before being used by European
and American manufacturers. This was the common form of the old Peruvian
knife, for numbers have been found, all bearing the same general outline. I have
seen two, recently brought from Peru, which approach still nearer to the cutting
instrument of saddlers, the hafts being equidistant from the ends of the blades, and
the edges curved uniformly. The blade of one is two inches long, three fourths
of an inch wide in the middle, and at the back is a little over one sixteenth of an




APPENDIX.                               455
inch thick; the haft is imperfectly cylindrical, an inch long, and three sixteenths
thick, with the head of a llama at the end, and has a small ring for a thread, to
suspend it over the wearer's neck. J, K, two views of the same thing-a minute
bell, three fourths of an inch in its longest diameter, rude in fabrication, much corroded, and consequently its sonorous powers weak. A shapeless hole is in the
upper part, from the metal not having been sufficiently fluid at the time of casting.
A loose pebble of copper is within, and forms the clapper. This interesting article
was disinterred near Cuzco in 1821. Hawks' bells, we know, were among the
chief presents by which Columbus gratified the Indians of the Antilles; but it is
not the less true that brass-founders on the Pacific possessed the art of making
similar things, and this certainly might have been inferred from their familiarity in
mixing the ingredients. They had but to double the proportion of tin used in the
compounds of which their edge-tools were made.  L, an axe or chopper, four
inches deep, and three wide at the cutting edge, which is well formed and sharp.
It has been used as a chisel, for the upper surface is partly spread out by blows,
probably from a wooden mallet. The extension of the head on either side was most
likely designed to serve as handles when thus employed. Though harder than copper, the edge yielded readily to a penknife. N, the bronze head of a war-club, or
six-pointed mace; one of three discovered in a grave in the province of Cuzco.
Two are in fine preservation, but this is somewhat corroded. The extreme diameter between two opposite rays is nearly four inches. The hole for the handle is
of one inch bore, and slightly tapers. A collar is cast on the side toward the handle. (See section N'.) M has one of the rays lengthened and formed into a hatchet
or war-axe, the blade of which equals in hardness I and L. The side-view, on a
smaller scale, in the middle of the group, represents the same instrument.  The
third specimen resembled N; the rays were a little longer, and not so thick.
Though less than either N or M, it was heavier and softer, being nearly pure
copper.
Weapons identical with these are mentioned by old historians among arms
stored for public emergencies during the sway of the Incas. " Pikes," says Garcilasso, " clubs, halberts, and pole-axes, made of silver, copper, and some of gold, having sharp points, and some hardened by the fire." Carpenters, he observes, had
axes and hatchets of copper, and the sculptors cut stone with flints and hard pebbles ground to an edge.
Blas Valera, one of the earliest Spanish writers, remarks that the copper which
the natives called anta served them in the place of iron. Of it they made knives,
carpenters' tools, pins used by women on their heads and dresses, their polished
mirrors, " and all their rakes and hammers," so that they worked more in mines of
copper than in others, preferring it to gold and silver. It is very evident that this
anta was bronze. Persons not practically acquainted with it would pronounce it
copper, from its resemblance to that metal. The native word was probably expressive of its true character, but misunderstood by the invaders.
O, P, Q, T differ in form, yet were evidently designed for the same purpose,
whatever that was. A perpendicular hole is formed on the top of each, and across
it a transverse wire has been cast in a little below the surface. (See the sections
O', P, Q', T'.) The one representing the head of an Indian (O) is the smallest.
Solid like the rest, its weight is less than an ounce; and, though corroded, the
features are well defined. The truncated conical cap is ornamented as figured; and
the acullico in the mouth, or quid of coca, is shown by the little bulb or swelling.
P is one inch and a quarter high, and as wide across the widest part. It is of copper. At two of its six sides a couple of mifiute serpents are inlaid. Q is a short




456                           APPENDIX.
cylinder, nearly an inch in diameter. An anchor-looking figure is sunk in at two
opposite parts of the periphery. T is not unlike the mummy of a cat. It represents the animal " quinquincho;" is nearly two inches long. The metal is shrunk
at the under side as if it had been poured into an open mould with that part uppermost. S, S', a pair of spring pincers or tweezers, one inch and a quarter long.
The metal is thickest at the bend. They are little better than a bent piece of sheet
copper. U, a rough ingot of bronze, sixteen inches long. It was found with the
war-clubs.
Gold, Silver, Champi, 4-c.
1, a full-length figure, of a female, in silver. It is two and a half inches high,
but does not weigh as much as a quarter of a dollar, being one of those thin specimens mentioned by the early historians. I could not detect traces of soldering except at the feet. At the inside of the legs the metal laps, and is unsoldered. The
head is large beyond all proportion. This mode of dressing the hair is the same in
all the figures of females. Figure 2 shows how it was secured behind. 3, a bust
of a hunchback, in bronze, not quite two inches high, and much corroded. The
bulb in the cheek denotes the quid of coca. The weight is light in proportion to
the bulk, showing that tin preponderates in the alloy. It is the best proportioned
figure of the whole, and apparently the oldest. 4 and 5 are solid images, in
" champi," one and a half inches high, and smooth and bright, as if just finished.
4 is a male, with the coca quid, and a cap with horizontal folds. The hands (imperfectly developed) are placed on the breast, the prevailing attitude. 6 shows the
disposition of the hair of figure 5. The ears, large and stretched in the man, are
invisible in the female. The two figures are supposed to represent a man and his
wife. 7, an Indian seated on his hams, the hands resting on the ground. The cap
is similar to that on figure 4; the features are rude and imperfect, and the whole
much corroded. 8 and 9, two views of one image, in silver; an Inca or Cacique,
with the dress and badges of his office, and the best finished, if not the best modeled figure of the whole. The head, as usual, is too large, and the arms are withered.  The height is two inches, and the whole solid.  Eight golden spokes radiate from the rim of the conical hat or cap, the front of which is ornamented with
(lotted rays. Two convex plates of gold are worn at the ears. A species of cas-';ock passes over the shoulders, and reaches to the knees in the front and rear. An
outer robe passes over it, but descends only half way. Plaits of hair, or hat-strings,
hang down upon the breast. A silver baton with a swell on it is in the right hand,
and something appears to have once occupied the other. 10, solid silver; a llama,
size of the sketch. The joints of the moulds in which it was cast are indicated.
11, a llama or one of its congeners, two inches high, and as long. It has been
worn as an ornament or jewel. A loop of silver wire is soldered at the junction
of the neck and trunk, while the tail is bent to form another. Two ingots, one
(f silver, the other of gold, are soldered on the back of the animal, clearly showing
the ancient use of the llama in transporting blocks of these metals. (The ingots
are figured beneath.) At the present time llamas are of the greatest utility, as they
frequently carry the metals from the mines in places where declivities are so steep
that neither asses nor mules could find footing.  12 and 12a, another image of
solid silver, less than two inches high. It is rudely formed, with the eyes, nose,
and hands preternaturally large. The head is remarkably flattened, and the lobes
of the ears are stretched down to the shoulders. 14, a statuette of a man, solid.
nine and a half inches high, very heavy, and black with age. The nose is large
and aquiline; the ears slit and stretched; the cap ribbed horizontally as in figures




APPENDIX                          457
457 iC. T 2
I Aft d
ii;
1  2'i~
10
s
d                                          u~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~J,!~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~,
111   1.u ~
-~~~ —— 14~                       1
S~~~~~~6




458                          APPENDIX.
4 and 7. The material of this casting, according to the catalogue, is "' champi,"
but from examination it appeared to me to be pure copper, coated or plated by some
means with silver, for when the latter was cut through the copper appeared.
Ridges on the inside of the thighs and legs show the meeting of the moulds. 15
and 16 are two sketches of one subject. The image is that of a female, and of the
same material and dimensions as the preceding one. Both were discovered together, and are supposed to represent an Inca or cacique and his wife. A number of gold, silver, and bronze bands are let in flush with the surface. Perhaps. they were places in the moulds before the metal was run in. By looking at the
initial letters placed opposite these bands in figure 15, it will be seen that two are
of gold, five of silver, and three of baser metal. The eyes and paps are of gold.
The bands vary from three eighths to three sixteenths of an inch in width, and their
ends lap over each other and are imperfectly united. Their thickness appeared in
one place over an eighth of an inch. The whole figure is black; but, if scratched
any where, silver appears, and when cut through, copper comes to view. The ankle-bones were quite prominent, the fingers poorly portrayed, the feet flat above,
with sand-holes in several parts, and the joints of the flasks were observable, leaving no room to doubt that those essential devices in our foundries were used by old
Peruvian craftsmen.  13, a chuspa for carrying tobacco or coca. The weft is
cotton; the warp Alpaca wool. The front is eight inches square, and ornamented
with figures wrought in the fabric as represented. The strap is a species of knitted work, very similar to what modern Indians produce. These bags were suspended at the left side, the straps going over the right shoulder. This relic is in
tolerable preservation, although the owner, from whose body it was taken, had long
been reduced to dust.
The magic effects ascribed by old writers to the use of coca-enabling men to
pass days without food, and under severe labors-are testified to by modern travelers. Von Tschudi says it is in the highest degree nutritious; that with its aid
miners and others undergo incredible fatigue on very spare diet; that those who
are in the habit of masticating it require little food, &c. Though a powerful stimulant, and its effects on the looks of inveterate chewers any thing but attractive, its
moderate use, he thinks, is not merely innoxious, but conducive to health. An Indian employed by him in laboriously digging for five days and nights, tasted no food
during that time. Every three hours he chewed half an ounce of coca-leaves, and
kept a quid contihually in his mouth. Individuals of great age have chewed it from
infancy. He refers to Indians who have attained 130 years. One, living in 1839,
was 142 years old, and for 90 years had never tasted water-not a drop! During
that time he had drunk only chicha-a filthy and intoxicating liquor. When eleven
years of age, he began to chew coca three times a day, and continued the practice
through the rest of his life.
The testimony of early writers is confirmed in other particulars by the preceding
figures. Three things were instituted by Manco Capac to distinguish his successors-shaving the head except a single lock, wearing large ear-ornaments, and the
llautu -a species of turban composed of a long strip of cloth of divers colors.
The hair was removed by sharp flints; and the operation, being a painful one, led a
young Inca who had undergone it to observe that, had the Spaniards introduced no
other inventions than scissors, looking-glasses, and combs, they deserved all the
gold and silver in the country. The llautu is seen in Figures 4, 7, 14, page 457.
When the native historian speaks of ear-rings, he means, generally, round or
elliptical discs, not pendent from, but embraced within the outstretched lobe, the
opening in which " was so wide that it is wonderful to conceive how it is possible




APPENDIX.                                    459
for the velvet of the ear to be extended so far as to receive an ear-ring as large as
the block of a pulley, for it was made in the form of those with which we draw up
water from a well." Figures 4, 5, 7, 8, 12, 14, page 457, show enlarged lobes,
but not so perfectly as the originals. The mode of wearing jewels in them is still
followed by South American tribes. The subjoined cut represents a Brazilian Indian with discs of pito wood, three inches in diameter and an inch thick, in his ears
and under lip. I obtained specimens of these ligneous gems. To the tribes on
me Pacific, which had their ears thus preternaturally enlarged, the Spaniards applied the term Oregons or Orejones.* The figures on page 457, just quoted, are
all thus designated in the catalogue of General Alvares.  Figure 12, which, as already.._.._
stated, has the lobes stretched to the shoulders, illustrates another historical passage,
which informs us that barbarous tribes subdued by the Incas were accustomed to flat-         
ten the heads of their children between two
boards.
Besides ordinary relics in stone, as chisels, maize-pounders, etc., there was in Mr.
Barboza's collection a beautifully-wrought                   -
lip-ornament, of a bright green jade. It is a
button or disc of the size of a cent, but thicker, and with a shank enlarged into a crescent, as represented in the margin.  A slit
is cut through the lower lip parallel with the..:
mouth, and the shank inserted endwise, and
then turned, so that the curved part rests
against the gums within the lip, while the
round and polished face remains without.
These discs are therefore not worn horizon* Has the territory of Oregon derived its name from the distorted ears
of its early inhabitants?




460                          APPENDIX.
tally, like those of the Boto-Cudos in the preceding figure. The Chiriviones of
Paraguay, as well as Brazilian tribes, still wear them; in fact, they form quite an
item in the early accounts of the Amazons. Jasper lip-jewels are noted by early
travelers, some of whom, when they first beheld the openings in the under lips,
imagined they had found men with two mouths.
A modern founder would be puzzled to cast complete-that is, without the application of a file, chisel, or other tool after the articles had left the sand-such
things as figure I and A 1, page 453, and figure 8, page 457-to say nothing of others still more intricate. It is very evident that the most elaborate works in metal
were solely produced by the crucible, hammer, and abrasion, to which the blowp)ipe in soldering, and the process of chasing must be added. The secret lies in
one word-patterns of wax. These, plain or intricate in detail, were modeled by
Iand, and buried in moulds of plaster or clay, which, when dried, were heated, the
wvax run out, and its place filled with molten metal. Inlaid material was imbedded
in the waxen type, and thereby became imbedded in the metal. This explanation
accords with every ancient piece of work. It removes every difficulty, and is the
only one that does.
Specimens of carving by modern Peruvians are subjoined. Figures 1 and 2 are
spoons, each cut out of one piece of wood. Figure 3 is one of their knives. The
blade, hammered out of hoop-iron, was secured in a slit in the haft by strong cotton twine. It is not unusual for Peruvian Indians to pass over into the southwestern provinces of Brazil with little ventures of carved wood.  The specimens figured were purchased from one of the traveling artists.




APPENDIX.                               461
An appendix, by the author of this volume, to the report of the United States
Naval Astronomical Expedition, now in the press, contains a description of antiquities brought from Chile and Peru by Lieutenant J. M. Gillies, commander of
the expedition. The contents of an ancient huaca, near Arica, discovered and forwarded by W. W. Evans, Esq., engineer of the Arica and Tacna Rail-road, were
received too late to be illustrated in the report.  Some of the relics are of unusual interest in an ethnological point of view, and are introduced here.
The skulls of old Peruvians, it is said, are indicative of a peaceful people-the
moral preponderating over the animal organs-and certainly their graves afford
ample evidence of the fact. We find household furniture, plain and ornamental
pottery, knives, spoons, pipkins, basket and wooden ware, pestles and mortars,
hammers, chisels, hatchets, whetstones, agricultural products, implements of spinning and weaving, pins, needles, bodkins, caps and clothing, whistles and toys for
children-these, and other instruments of male and female industry, taken in connection with the general absence of weapons of war, are pleasing tokens of domestic habits and pacific inclinations.
Seldom are data met with from which to infer the age to which ancient huacas
belong. They are found in soils and locations as well calculated to preserve their
contents as the catacombs of Egypt. From the character and condition of the following relics, they may have been interred, not only centuries, but decades of centuries.  They consist of the household and personal effects of a family-of movables never left behind on a change of residence. Valuable cn earth, they were believed to be equally desirable in the' country beyond the setting sun, and were
therefore packed up to accompany them thither-ears of corn, and also grains
carefully sewed up in bags, to plant there, vessels to hold liquids, and others in
which to boil water there, spindles to spin thread there, bronze hooks to catch fish,
and arrows to kill game there.
Of pottery, there are several vases, some whole, others in fragments. Nos. 1
and 3 in the above group are nearly of equal capacity-about seven inches high,
and six across the swelled parts. Designed for heating water, they have conical
bottoms to drop into the perforated stone slabs which formed the top of old Peru



462                         APPENDIX.
vian stoves; hence the lower halves are not painted, nor are such vases ever found
glazed. In texture, hardness, and material, they resemble our sand crucibles, and
are possibly as well adapted to endure heat. The colors are black and red on a pale
yellow ground. No. 4 is a cover or stopper to the first vase, of the same material,
hollow, and pretty uniform in thickness-from one eighth to three sixteenths of an
inch. Such covers are in some respects superior to our close-fitting pot-lids, since
boilers could never be exploded by an accumulation of steam. While a sudden
evolution of vapor might partially raise them, they could never be blown out of
their seats during the absence or in the presence of the cook. No. 2 is a more
perfect pitcher than I have ever met with among American antiques. It is flatbottomed, has a loop handle, but not a contracted lip. The ground color is a dark
chocolate, upon which are displayed, with considerable effect, white lines, stars, and
circles. The rim is painted inside and out. Taken altogether, this vase is worthy of a place on modern tables. The material is a light reddish clay. No. 5, a
small wide-mouthed and flat-bottomed bowl. No. 6, possibly a toy, since its capacity hardly exceeds that of a wine-glass.
Of the above, No. 1 resembles a tankard or quart measure in dimensions and
form, with the mitred head of an Inca for a handle. The colors are black and
brown on a red ground. A similar vessel, with the head and body of a monkey for a handle, was found in a grave, eleven feet below the surface, near Ariquipe, during the past year, and presented to the Smithsonian Institution by Mr.
Eckel, United States Consul at Talcahuana, Chile.  It is better painted and in
better preservation than the one represented here. No. 2, a boiler, twice the capacity of those on the preceding page: it shows marks of the fire, and is destitute
of ornament. A painted stopper closes the mouth. No. 3, a small vase for heating liquids, and No. 4, a still smaller one. No. 5, a very rough little pot, which
may have served for a lamp, if lamps were used by ancient Peruvians.
The six objects in the following group are of bronze. No. 1 is a singular-looking
article, and one whose use it is next to impossible to divine. At the first glance,
upon its arrival, when its general and rough contour only was observable, for it
was imbedded in a thick envelope of green oxide, it bore some resemblance to a
sword-handle; but when the incrusted covering was removed, the relic assumed
another appearance-one as much of an enigma as before. It is an elliptical band,
with an opening three and a half inches one way, and an inch the other. The or



APPENDIX.                               463
namental projection at one end is slit down the middle. The figures of Incas on
the broad face of the band are in a sitting posture, holding cups to their mouths.
and, minute as they are, their legs, arms, and thighs are singularly relieved, considering that the article has been cast complete. None of our founders could produce any thing like it from their moulds. No. 2, the triangular blade of a knife,
rather more than two inches across the cutting edge. A small wooden haft had
been secured to it by twine, but it dropped to dust on being handled. No. 3, a fishhook, covered with blossoms of green oxide. It retains the lashing that secured
it to the line, and was found on the centre of a handsome coil formed of the latter.
Its shank is one inch and a quarter long. No. 4, another, about the size of a
mackerel-hook. The shorter end is one inch and a half. On removing the oxide, the metallic part was found to be one eighth of an inch thick at the middle,
and to taper thence to both ends. If there had been a barb at one end, and a
notch or eye at the other, they were rusted away. This hook is stiff, and as difficult to bend as if made of iron. No. 5, a straight hook, the shank a little over
two inches long, with a barb neatly tied on. The finely-twisted line has disappeared, except small portions imbedded in the copper rust. No. 6, a small hook, half
imbedded in a portion of the line. Its size resembles those temporary hooks made
by boys of pins. An attempt to remove its green envelope would destroy it.
Of the four figures on the engraving on the following page, No. I is a prettilycarved snuff or other mill for rubbing dry leaves to powder. It resembles current
Brazilian apparatus. The shallow recess is two and a half inches by one inch.
The blade is cracked in three places, and each crack has been prevented from spreading by drilling holes on each side, and binding the parts together by twine or wire.
No. 2, a thin piece of hard wood, three and three quarter inches long, one and
three eighths wide, three sixteenths thick at the centre, and reduced thence to the
edges. In a hole in the centre a short rod remained. There were dust marks
round the hole, as if the rod had been charged with thread. No. 3, a genuine ancient spindle, in good preservation. It consists of a round tapered stick, eleven
inches long, pointed at both ends, with no slit or notch at the upper end. The little stone weight, a truncated cone, is identical in form with some figured on Aztec
paintings. Broken and decayed pieces of thread, of llama wool, remain on the
stem. No. 4, a portion of a small stone, which, from the notch cut round its pointed end, may have been used as a plumb-line or as a spindle.




464                          APPENDIX.
Among other matters, there were quartz arrow-heads in a reed quiver, and remains of a sling woven in black and white squares. A variety of slings were anciently in vogue, and considerable labor and skill laid out on them. This specimen
is a proof of the correctness of old historians on the subject. There were also the
remains of a bronze adze in a forked stick, the fork presenting an acute angle; the
film of green oxide remains attached to the part to which the blade had been attached by thongs. The implement, when perfect, resembled some recovered from
Egyptian tombs. Then there were interesting remains of clothing, plain and ornamental; a child's cap, with a loop to pass under the chin; fragments of netting.,
of round and plaited cords; a handsomely-wrought bag, with pendent tassels, very
like a modern lady's reticule; and, lastly, a skull, which, from its long plaited locks,
may have belonged to the mother of the family. Probably within it sat the mind
that contrived the useful and ornamental fabrics just mentioned, and in it revolved
the eyes that watched their progressive development, from the twisting of the
thread with the spindle to the finishing touches given to them by her fingers.
There is something affecting in the members of a family being thus accompanied
with their little stock of valuables on their exodus from this world and their journeyings to another.  Happily, they had no idea that their treasures would be stolen,
and even their own bodies borne off as curiosities by people of another race.
B.
NOTICIA HISTORICA DE SANTA PRISCILLIANA VIRGEM MARTYR.
S'o os subterraneos de Roma uma das cousas que inspirao curiosidade a todo o
estrangeiro e religioso respeito ao christao que visita a Cidade Eterna.  Vinte e
tantos destes lugares abertos no seio da terra, dos quaes o maior e o que tem hoje
o nome de Catacumbas de S. Sebastiao, que tem doze milhas de extens5o nas suas
diversas ruas subterraneas, onde est5o enterrados cento e setenta mail christaos,




APPENDIX.                                  465
martyres e ndio martyres, f6rniao uma segunda Roma subterranea. E' inconcebivel como e para que se perfurou erm todos os sentidos o baixo da terra de Roma
cmquanto se ignora a origem disto: desde o principio da fundaaio da cidade que
os Romanos edifico corn um barro, que chamao hoje Pozzolana, que s6 se encontra cm uma camada geral algumas bragas ao fundo da terra; e para esta extracdao
ido cavando o terreno em firma de corredores de abobada; e 6 de tal sorte glutinoso e conlsistente, que nao se ve um s6 desmnoronamento no cabo de tantos seculos.
Comro estas barreiras pertenciao a particulares, aqulellos dos proprietarios quc
erao christaos nos tres primeiros seculos de perscgui;5o contra o christianismo, as
convertiio em asylos religiosos, onde a furto se reuniio ao clarao das alampadas,
exercidio todos os officios da religiao e enterraviio os seus mortos em catacumbas
abertas de um e outro lado ao longo dos corredores, como ainda hoje se conservao
e se v3El; notando por6m que nos jazigos dos christios que  morrerio de morte
natural n5o se encontra nem emblemrna nern epitaphio ou signal algum que o distinga; naquelles porrni ondo jazem os corpos dos que morrerao pelo martyrio le-se o
seu nome aberto emn unma lapida, ou na parede quo fecha a catacumba, o dia e o
anno em que sofiefr   o martyrio, e urna palma esculpida, que o symbolisa; e em
grande numero delles se encontra dentro, junto a cabeca do cadaver, um vaso corn
sangue e area, quando o podiao apanhar no lugar ende o martyr cahira morto; as
chronicas e as lcoendas dos escriptores sagrados desse tempo narrnio entao a historia da vida e genero de tormenitos que soffrirao esses martyres, cujos corpos se
achao nesses subterraneos.
Foi s6 depois de trezentos annos que a religidio sahio debaixo da terra e ergueu
os seus altares no meio da Roma pagaa: desde entao ate hoje estes lugares subterraneos forao tidos na maior venera~lo e cuidado, porque pertencem ao dominio
da historia e da religiio.
Santa Priscilliana, Virgem Rornano, no tempo em que Julianno Apostata, imperador, perseguia comrn mais raiva os discipulos da Cruz, nao tinha senao 16 annos
de idado, e sempre em companhia de suat piedoza mai Santa Priscilla, que consagnrira o rendimento de todos os seus bens ao servi9o da caridade, se occupava forvorosamente comrn ella nestes exercicios pios e em prestar soccorros aos martyres
durante o tempo de suas prisoes c tormenstos, e depois de mortos, em fazer recolher
os seus cadaveres e as reliquias de seu sangue para Ihes dar jazigo nas cataclmbas:
sorprendida na pratica desta devoqiio e exercicios de caridade, presa e interrogada
pela sua religiao, confessou a Cruz, e todos os tormentos e tortuaas empregadas
nos debeis membros da delicada virgemn de 16 annos n5o podraeo conseguir abater
a sua f6, que sustentou no meio de dires horriveis, at5 qs.o o ministro do tyranno,
desesperado de nada conseguir da heroica virtude da virgei;, mandou-lhe atravessar
uma espada pelo pescoqo, o que a fez cahir morta no Ineio da praqa, no dia 16 de
janeiro, para ir viver eternamnente no cedo, e na terra ser vencrada como uma heroina
da religiio.
Os virginacs restos mortaes de Santa Virgem Martyr Prisciiliana jaziao em uma
das catacumbas do cemiterio subterraneo de Ciriaca na via Tiburtina, e dahi fordo
tirados por sua eminencia o cardeal patricio, vigario geral de Ronla, e concedidos,
por muito especial graca de sua santidade o papa Gregorio XVI. ao Dr. Manoel
Joaquim de Miranda Rego, parocho da freguezia de Santa Anna desta corte, para
os collocar na sua igrcja parochial.  Dentro da catacumba junto ao esqueleto da
Santa Virgem, do lado da cabeqa, estava um vaso de barro contendo o seu sangue
comrn area, assim como foi apanhado no dia do seu martyrio, e o nome da Virgen
gravado no bojo do mesmo vaso, o qual tambem foi concedido por sua santidade e
se acha dentro da arca que cont6m as santas reliquias. O ossos de Santa Virgem
G~ G




466                            APPENDIX.
Martyr estao vestidos de urn envoltorio de cera, que a representa na sua idade de
16 annos, e s6 o alto da cabeqa estd descoberto e deixa ver o craneo da Santa
Virgem.
A solemnidade da trasladado e exposiqao deste precioso monumento da religiao,
que a cidade de S. Sebastiio tern a fortuna de possuir pela primeira vez, vai ter
lugar logo que SS. 1MM. Imperiaes tenhao regressado a esta capital, na forma que
dispozer a pastoral de S. Ex. Revma.
Nesse mesmo dia ter6 lugar a installaqao da irmandade de Santa Priscilliana
Virgem Martyr: a sua vocaqao 6 o culto e a caridade fraterna; cuidando da decencia da arca, onde estdo depositadas as reliquias santas, fazendo celebrar uma missa
solemne no dia de sua festividade; e dotando, cada anno, segundo os fundos do
cofre, a donzellas pobres, para casamento, corn o dote de 600$ rs. a cada uma, em
honra e gloria da Santa Virgem Martyr.
C.
CARTA PASTORAL DO EXMI. SR. BISPO DO RIO DE JANEIRO, ANNUNCIANDO A
PRESENCA DO SAGRADO CORPO DA VIRGEM E MARTYR SANTA PRISCILLIANA, E ESTABELECENDO O CEREMONIAL DA TRASLADACAO E DA FESTA DAS SANTAS RELIQUIAS.
D. Manoel do Monte  Rodrigues de Araujo, por merce de Deos e da Santa S6
Apostolica, Lispo do Rio de Janeiro, conde de Iraj6, do conseolho de S. M. o Imperador, seo  capellao-m6or, deputado a assemblda geral lcgislativa pela provincia do Rio de Janeiro, grdo-cruz das ordens de S. Januario e de Francisco I. do
reino das Duas Sicilias, grande dignitario da irnperial ordem da Roso, commendador da de Christo, etc., etc., etc.
Aos fieis que hablitoo esta cidade do Rio do Janeiro, graqa e paz da parte de Deos
Padre, e da de Nosso Senhor Jesus Christo.
Bemdizendo ao Senhor pelos beneficios que nao cessa de fazer-nos, nos vamos
annunciar-vos, AM. C. F., um  dos sous grandes favores, qui muito p6de contribuir
para a nosso salvano.  Ao dar-vos a noticia que pretendemos, n6s nos possuimos
dos mesmos sentimentos, e empregarcmos as mesmas palavras de S. Joao Chrysostomo em uma occasiao semelhantc: " Eu exulto de felicidade, disse elle, e o rneu
prazer chega ate a loucura; porem urna loucura que vale mais quo a sabedoria do
mundo.  Eu triurnpho, eu estou transportado de alegria, e o meu cspirito em uma
especie de arrebatemento.  Que direi eu?  Como exprimir os sentimentos da rminha alma 1 Direi o poder dos martyres, a derrota dos demonios, a dignidade da
Igreja, a virtude da Cruz, os milagres de Jesus crucificado, a gloria do Pali, a graqa
do Espirito Santo, a f de todo o povo, os transportes de toda a cidade, o coro das
virgens, a bella ordenm dos sacerdotes, o ardor dos homens de todos os estados, dos
magistrados, dos pobres e dos ricos, dos cidadios e dos estrangeiros?"
Assim se exprimia o grande pontifice de Constantinopla, por occasiao da trasladaqBo das reliquias de um santo martyr; e da mesma maneira, n6s vos annunciarmos hoje, M. C. F., quo se acha no meio de n6s o corpo da virgern e martyr
Santa Priscilliana! Estes sagrados despojos, tzrados desses lugares subterrancos
onde a nova Roma, mati dos martyres, encerra nas suas entranhas dquclles a quem
Roma idolatra, e embriagada do sangue dos martyres perseguio; estes sagrados
despojos, n6s os devemos a devoqno do nosso) irmro o digno parocho da freguezia
de Santa Anna, e 6 liberalidade do pontifice reinante Gregorio XVI.!
Feliz czdade do Rio de Janeiro, que possues uma tNo consideravel reliquia! Con



APPENDIX.                                   467
templando esses ossos znanimados, mas que fordo objecto de uma providencia particular que os guardou, que exemplos de virtude nao tens tu que aprender?  Que
valimento nto te alcanqar65 elles, e quantos beneficios tu nao recolher6s por sua
intercessao, junto 6quelle que assim tem honrado aos seus santos! Abre, abre as
tuas portas, e recebe corn alegria, com pompa, e sobretudo com devoCqo, um tao
[)rccioso dom. Que os teus sentimentos nesta occasido scjao os mesmos que outr'
ora animnarao a populaydo, experimentou e descreveu o santo bispo de Constantiriopla...... S. Ex. continia longamente tratando da vemeraqao e do culto que desde
o principio do christianismo se tributou is reliquias dos martyres; das heresias que
no seculo XVI. se suscittrdo a este respeito: da constante doutrina da igreja ensiieada pelos concilios e santos padres sobre este ponto, c depois conclue assim:..... Ainda uma reflexao sobre o culto das santas reliquias, e n6s concluiremos
este nosso trabalho.  O culto das reliquias, sera certamente mui agradavel aos
Santos, cujos restos preciosos n6s veneramos; mui agradavel a Deos, a quem n6s!ouvamos, louvando aos seus santos, se por ventura esse culto tiver por objecto
imitar as virtudes desses santos.  Em verdade que a virtude do martyrio 6 heroica,
n nlo 6 dado a todos aspira-la; mas quando os martyres chegavao a este gr6o da
Iortaleza christaa, outras virtudes os haviio disposto e preparado para isto. A ora-?ao, o jejurn, a penitencia, a vigilancia, a piedade, a caridade, eis-aqui o que, desapegando-os desta vida, levava-os a sacrifica-la por amor de Jesus Christo.  Ora,
estas virtudes n6s podcrnos initar.  Assirn honravao os nosses maiores aos santos
nartyres, e assira cumpre que n6s igualmente os honremos.  Quando a celebre
Agloe mandava de ornma o seu domestico Bonifacio procurar as reliquias dos martyres no Oriente, dizia lhe: " Sabei, o Bonifacio, que os corpos dos fieis que vao
buscar os dos martyres devem ser puros e sem mancha; nao seria honra-los nao
imitar as suas virtudes!
" Santa Priscilliana, cuja reliquia n6s hoje veneramos, brilhou na Igreja de Deos,
especialmente pelo exercicio da caridade christaa.  O seu nome acha-se associado
ao dessas illustres virgens e matronas romanas que nesses dias infaustos para a
religriao, quando a perseguigdo desfechava d csapiedados golpes sobre os confessores
da f6, ellas os assistigo com as suas ora5oes com auxilios temporaes, pensav'o-lhes
as suas chagas, davdo sepultura aos seus corpos.  Santa Priscilliana e sua mai
Santa Priscilla tinhdo applicado todos os seus bens 6 pratica de uma tao louvavel
caridade; e foi em odio desta virtude que o imperador Juliano Apostata mandou
traspassar com uma espada o pescoqo da joven Priscilliana, que por este modo
ajuntou 6 aureola da virgindade a palma do martyrio! A caridade portanto, a
beneficencia christ~ta deve ser a virtude pela quai especialmente honremos a memoria da santa, venernios as suas reliquias.  NlIs ouvimos com prazer que uma associaqiio religiosa vai estabelecer-se  sob a proteccao da Virgem  e Martyr Santa
Priscilliana, cujo fim 6, al6m do culto 6 sagrada reliquia, a dotacao para casamento
a donzellas pobres.  Digne-se o Senhor, que e a mesma caridade, de aceitar esta
homenagein em honra da gloriosa Virgem e Martyr Priscilliana; digne-se de aninlar e bustentar os esforqos dos fundadores de tao pia e util instituiqao, e que ella
encontre a mais viva syrnpathia e efiicaz cooperadao nos fieis desta diocese, como!1us o esperamos."
Depois destas consideraqSes, nos vamos estabelecer o seguinte ceremonial que
se deve observar na trasladaqao e festa da reliquia de Santa Priscilliana, em coniormidade do que prescreve a instrucqao de S. Carlos Borromea no concilio provincial 40 mediolanense, a rubrica do ritual romano, e os preceitos liturgicos em
casos taes, e de accordo com o nosso Illm. e Revm. Cabido, e em virtude de algunas concess5es pontificias.




468                            APPENDIX.
Jesu Chrzsts Nomzne i.nvocato.
Art. 10. A trasladaqdo do corpo da Virgem e Martyr Santa Priscilliana, da capella, onde se acha, de S. Francisco na Prainha para a igreja matriz de Santa Anna.
onde ha de ser collocado, tera lugar no dia 10 do proximo feturo mez de maio, is
4 horas da tarde.  Na vespera desse dia esta solemnidade sera annunciada coDn
repiques na matriz e capella sobreditas.
Art. 2~. As 3 horas da tarde do referido dia 10, na mencionada capella de S.
Francisco, na nosca presenqa ou do nosso Illm. e Revm. monsenhor vigario-geral.
(do nosso Revmi. conego notario, Revm. vigario e Rev. clero da igreja de Santa Anna.
far-se-ha o reconhecimento, e se verificara a authenticidade de santa reliquia, abrindose a caixa que a cont6m, e lendo se o Breve da sua concessdo, do que se fara
auto.  Depois desta ceremonia, a reliquia ser' thurificada e patente a venerado
do clero e dos circumstantcs.
Art. 3~. Feito o reconhecimento, seguir-se-ha a procissao. Pela presente carta
pastoral n6s convidamos as irmandades, ordens terceiras, e o reverendo clero secular e regular deste corle a tomar parte em um acto religioso de tanta gravidade.
Para o mesrno fim convidaremos tambem o nosso Illm. e Revm. Cabido.
Art. 4~. As irmandatdcs, ordens terceiras, e reverendo clero secular e regular
guardard5 nesta prociseso a mrestoa ordem  relativamente aos seus lugares que
guarddo nas procissoes de Corpus Christi e de S. Sebastiao.  Fechara o prestito o corpo da Santa, que ir6 debaixo do pallio, precedendo -dous acolytos thurificaido.
Art. 5~. Ao sahir da capella de S. Francisco, e por algum eapaso de tempo n6S
carregaremos a area da santa reliquia, juntamente com alguns membros do nosso
hllim. e Revm. Cabido.  Seguir-se-hao ao depois a fazer este officio sacerdotes que
irdo para1mentados.
Art. 60. Sahindo da capella de S. Francisco, o prestito tomara pela rua da Imperatriz e rua Larga de S. Joaquim para entrar na matriz de Santa Anna.  Pelo
caminho cantar-se-hao as litanias dos SS., accrescentando-se no lugar proprio a
invocaqdo de Santa Priscilliana; e depois cs canticos Benedictus c MOagnjficat ouc
algum psalmo festivo.
Art. 7~. Recommendamos e pedimios a todos os moradores das ruas sobrermencionadas, pelas quaes a procissio ha de passar, tenhao as mesmas ruas limpas e
asseiadas, e ornadas, como 6 de estylo, as frentes das suas casas, em testemunho
de devoiao aos sagrados objectos do nosso culto.
Art. 8~. Ao recoihcr-se a procissio, posta a reliquia sobre o altar m6r e thurificadla, cantar-se-ha Te-Deum, e ao depois a antiphona, versiculos e oracqo do Commum das Virgcns.  Seguir-se-ha a predica.  A reliquia se conservar6 patente a
vcnerasCo publica.
Art. 9~. No sobredito dia 10 e no seu oitavario, haverd indulgencia plenaria, quc
comeqar; da tarde desse dia at6 o por do sol do dia oitavo, em favor de todos ofieis de um e outro sexo, verdadeiramente penitentes, que se tenhao confessado e
commungado, os quacs visitarem a matriz de Santa Anna, em qualquer dos oito
dias, e orarem por algum tempo, segundo a intenq;o de Sua Santidade.  Esta indulgencia p6de ser applicada em suffragio pelos mortos.
Art. 10. 0 auto do reconhecimento e o que se fizer, memorando a trasladaqao,
sera registado no livro a que pertencer a parochia, e se conservara copia em unu
retabulo que se collocara em lugar proximo ao em que ficar a santa reliquia.
Art. 11. 0 dia 30 de agosto deste anno 6 o designado para a festa da reliquia
de Santa Priscilliana.  Nesse dia cantar-se-ha na igreja de Santa Anna a missa




APPENDIX.                                469
Loquebar, pro Virgine et Martyre; e desde a tarde do dito dia at6 o por do sol do
oitavo havera indulgencia plenaria, que poderi ser applicada pelos mortos, em favor
dos fieis de um e outro sexo, verdadeiramente penitentcs, quc se tenhio confessado
e commungado, os quaes visitarem a matriz de Santa Anna em qualquer dos oito
dias, e orarem por algum tempo, segundo a inten(co do santissimo padre.
E para que chegue i noticia de todos, mandamos expedir a presente carta pastoral, que tern a necessaria publicidade.
Dada nesta residencia episcopal da Concei'o, sob o nosso signal e sello das nossas armar:, no sabbado antes do domingo da Paix-o, 28 de Marqo de 1846. E eu
o conego Jos6 Antonio da Silva Chaves, secretario do bispado c da camara ecclesiastica, a subscrevi.           +MANOEL, bispo capellao-m6r, conde de Iraja.
D.
The storm of red dust, sweeping over the ocean, noticed in Chapter III., is said
to have been, in extent and duration, one of the most remarkable on record. As
the petl:liar tint and predominating character of the sky-scenes at the time were
believed to be due to it, I submitted to the Smithsonian Institution the expediency
of preparing in cilromo-lithography sketches of the singularly beautiful illustrations, by Nature herself, of the meteorological phenomenon; and the rather, as I
supposed they would be pioneer paintings in a department of physics that is destined to call to its aid the pencil and palette. Celestial landscapes have yet to be
studied.  They are full of instruction, and those referred to were charged withl.
ipsecial lesson.
THE END.