PI
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A
PRACTICAL TREATISE
ON THE
CULTURE AND TREATMENT
OF THE
GRAPE VINE:
EMBRACING
iTS HISTORY, WITH DIRECTIONS FOR ITS TREATMENT, IN THE UNITED
STATES OF AMERICA, IN THE OPEN AIR, AND UNDER GLASS
STRUCTURES, WITH AND WITHOUT ARTIFICIAL HEAT.
BY J. FISK ALLEN,
THIRD EDITION-ENLARGED AND REVISED.
NEW YORK:
A. 0. MOORE, AGRICULTURAL BOOK PUBLISHER,
(LATE 0. M. SAXTON & CO.,)
NO. 140 FULTON STREET.
1859.




Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year' 353, by
C. M. SAXTON,
l; the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the South;
ern District of New York.




TIE first edition of this treatise was prepared at the
suggestion of some friends and other gentlemen; it was
intended for use more particularly in Massachusetts and
the neighboring States.  It has had a more extensive
circulation, and, from questions proposed to me from distant States in this Union, as also by direct request, I have
been induced to prepare a second, and again a third
edition, enlarged by notes of my own, explanatory of the
first, and by copious extracts from such sources as would
present most, if not all, of the various conflicting views
respecting the cultivation of the grape.
In giving the opinions of others, it has been my endeavor
to embrace as great a period of time as possible, that the
difference in those now held, if any, might be seen; to
attain this object, when by so doing, I could retain the
ideas of those quoted, such parts have been extracted as
contained selections from previous authors. In the remarks on these opinions and systems, their bearing upon
the culture, in this country, has been mainly considered.




iV                 INTRODUCTION.
and they have been made with the object of conveying
information, and not with the idea of criticising them.
Circumstances of climate, or location, may render a practice successfil in one country, that may be highly improper in one differently situated.
In the first edition, it was the plan to give a concise account of my own practice, as a system to be followed by
others, without giving the reasons therefor. It was well
known, in the vicinity of the city where my residence
was, and where it was presumed this treatise would circulate chiefly, that, for several years, I had been experimenting upon the different plans recommended, (and
which had caused me so much perplexity in the selecting
of the most suitable for this climate,) in order that I
could fix upon one worthy of general adoption. To spare
other cultivators this perplexity, very little was said of
soils and manures; a compost was recommended as suitable, and a substitute named, in case the materials in the
former could not readily be obtained.  Of the systems of
training and pruning, all that could be of use was given,
and the advantages and disadvantages appertaining to
each were noticed.
In the present edition, it has been my plan to give all
shades of opinion, for every variety of climate; that,
wherever located, some remarks might be found appropriate to the situation, provided it is within the latitude
suited to grape culture. My.own opinions are fully expressed, and, as the views of otlhers hlave been added.




INTRODUCTION.                  V
also, and wherein we differ freely stated, the reader can
select for his own adoption, that system which recommends itself as the best to his mind.
This treatise is not offered to the public as containing
anything new, but simply as recommending a plan which
has operated well with the author; it is intended as a
guide to the person entirely unacquainted with the grape
culture, and for the benefit more especially of those living remote from cities, in newly settled places. This will
explain, why matters, which appear to the experienced
of small account, have been so particularly noticed; it
has given occasion to some repetition also, but I thought
it best to err on this side, than that there should be any
want of plain explanation of my meaning. Rules have
been given for the propagation of the vine, the planting
out, pruning, training, and other routine duties.
Views of grape-houses, with minute descriptions of the
manner of building and warming them, and every little
matter which could be supposed to occur to one unaccustomed to the subject, have been added.
The subject of soils and manures has received the
largest share of attention; pruning and training, when
compared with the above, are secondary affairs, as the
vine, if well located, in suitable compost, will do well
under any system  judiciously practiced.  In treating
these matters, I have endeavored to keep distinct the subjects of compost for the border of the grape-house, and
the soil suitable for the vineyard. I have not always




Vi                  INTRODUCTIONo
succeeded in doing so, nor is it a matter of much consequence, for what is suitable in the one case, can hardly
be injurious in the other; it is not to be presumed, however, that the same labor and care will be bestowed on
the preparation of the soil for the vineyard, that one
would give to the border for the grapery.
The material of the former edition, which is simply
the details of my practice, is, in this, unchanged; when
necessary, rather than alter the original, notes explanatory have been added.
I will state here, as an explanation for any repetition,
or for the want of more system in the arrangement of
the matter, that the work has been performed little by
little, as I could spare an hour from other labors; and,
the present edition being an enlargement of the former,
the matter now added is introduced where it could best
be under these circumstances.
SAIEM, Mass., January, 1853.




THERER are several works published in England, written
by practical men, giving ample directions for the cultivation of the grape in that country; but the climate of the
Northern States of America is so different from  that of
England, that, however well calculated these directions
may be for the latter, they can hardly be expected to suit
the former.  The temperature of England is milder, and
is not subject to the great extremes of heat and cold
which we experience.  The searching northwesterly winds,
which prevail with us in New England in the winter and
early spring months, with the mercury often at zero, and
even below  that point, and the sudden changes we are
liable to, in this season of the year, often equal to forty
degrees in a few hours, render the care requisite, for the
successful forced culture of fruit, very great, and the process a more difficult one, in this country, than in England.*
* Mr. Hovey, in his Magazine of Horticulture, quotes the above passage,
with this remark relative thereto: " In regard to the'more difficult' pro




Viii                       INTRODUCTION.
Do not build  a grapery under the erroneous impression, that, having done so, and planted the vines, you
have secured  to yourself, without further labor, a bouncess of producing the grape, in this country, the author undoubtedly alludes
to early forcing; for we apprehend that, in cold houses, the process requires
as little care, if not much less, than in England."  I cannot imagine how
any one could doubt the meaning of this expression; for, after mentioning
the extreme changes in winter and spring, the mercury falling to zero,
(which it can never be expected to do when the grapes are growing in a cold
house,) is added these words: "render the care requisite, for the successful
FORCED culture of fruit, very great, and the process a more difficult one,"
&c. If Mr. Hlovey considers growing grapes under glass, without fire heat,
forcing them, he differs from me, in what forcing is.  (See Remarks on
Forcing.)
The care necessary, is in the regulation of the temperature of the Forcing
Hrouse in the daytime, under the particular circumstances referred to.  Good
judgment, some experience, and much caution, are requisite in the proper
ventilation of the house at these times.  For instance, the mercury, in the
open air, has been, during the night, 5~ or 10~ below zero; to keep the
temperature of the house at 45~ or 50~, at sunrise, you must have the flues,
or water-pipes, hot; as soon as the sun shines, as it frequently does in winter as well as in the summer, with great brilliancy upon the glass, the heat
rapidly accumulates, and the mercury is soon at 90~ or 100~. The temperature in the open air may be at zero, or from that point up to 20~. Now,
here is the difficulty; if the top lights, or any other ventilators are opened
so as to allow a current of this cold air to flow over the vines, the fruit thus
exposed will perish, and if you suffer this very high temperature, when 80~
or 85~ is the highest point you should allow, the vines will be unduly excited, and consequently very liable to a check, when the temperature falls.
The foliage may not show, at the time, any bad effects from this cold air, but
soon the young bunches will turn yellow and drop.  "What is the'matter
with my vines?" (is a question which is often put to me,) " they pushed very
strong, and showed fine buicnes of fruit, but the most of them have dried
up and dropped."  They have at some time received a check to the flow of
the sap, and the effect of this, in the first seventy days of forcing, will always be the loss of the crop.  Having small ventilators, and opening the
lights but very little, with every precaution that can be used, under the circumstances, to remedy and prevent the too much heat, and the admission
of a current of the cold air, is the only way to avoid any ill effects from such
causes.




INTRODUCTION.                             ix
tiful supply  of fruit; if you do  so, you niust be sadly
disappointed.
Probably there is no plant so sure of yielding an  annual crop  as the grape, under right management; but
this is absolutely necessary, to insure success.
The attempt has been made to give plain rules, which
may be easily understood, and the practical operation of
which  can  be  carried  out with  as little  labor as the
proper cultivation of the grape, under glass, will permit.
The  following  directions are intended  for those who
may desire to cultivate this fruit, for their own pleasure
or convenience, and do not wish to incur the expense of
a regularly  educated  gardener, and  who  have felt the
want of a concise  and  simple  explanation  of the  process, and the rules by which these operations of forcing
and  of growing  grapes, under glass structures, can  be
carried out.
The treatment recommended is such as has been found
MIr. A. Forsyth, in a diary of the culture of the grape in a fbrcing-house,
at East Barnet, in Herts, published in London's Magazine, page 548, vol.
10th, makes these remarks relative to the weather: "December the 15th,
weather favorable; the nights often 50~ or 52~; seldom  under 40~.  We
have had only four frosts; the most intense, as low as 26~."  A diary of
t e forcing-house kept by myself, on the fifteen first days of December, has
five or six days when the cold is said to be very severe, below zero or
about it; and several days, when it was mild by day, the mercury fell to
16~ and 18' at night.  In any degree of cold at night, if the heating arrangements are suitable, the temperature, vwith proper care, can be easily
regulated.  That there is a vast difference in the. attention required when
the mercury ranges from 20" to 48~ above zero, or when it is as low as 6o
or 10' below, any one having had experience in such matters will readily
admit.
1e




x                       INTRODUCTION.
to be the best after many years' experience, in its cultivation; duriig which  time,  the  different systems  of
pruning have been all tried, and many of the vineyards
in  France, and  on  the Rhine, in  Italy, and  other
countries have been visited, and the manner of pruning,
the varieties of soil, and the amount of fruit which a vine
is permitted to ripen, have been examined.and ascertained.
The disadvantages we labor under, in this country, in
forcing fruit, from  the extreme coldness of the weather
in winter, are counterbalanced, in some degree, by the
superior brilliancy of the sun, and consequent dryness of
the  atmosphere, at the time of ripening, which give a
flavor to the fruit, such as it can rarely be made to attain
in  the  moist, dull, and  cloudy  weather of England.*
The variations of the temperature are always indicated
by a Fahrenheit thermometer.
* I find that I have not always been here rightly understood. The idea
intended to be expressed is, that the natural advantages of our climate
over that of England, in respect to the atmosphere, are very much in our
favor. Most seasons, the grapes produced in this country in houses without fire heat, are equally well flavored as those grown with artificial heat.
The forced fruits of England, grapes, pine apples, and cherries, are very
superior. I have never, in any country, eaten better, particularly the pine
apples, which are riher in flavor than any I have ever tasted in the East
IndLIc




THE vine is known to have existed fiomn the earliest
time of which we have record. Extracts from different
sources, giving its history and the time and manner of its
introduction into Europe, are annexed.
The variety of the grape from which have originated
all the  kinds cultivated  as European  sorts in this
country, came first from Asia.  For many centuries it
has been cultivated in the warm and temperate latitudes
of Europe.
The vine is also indigenous to America; it is found,
in its wild state, over a very large extent of country in
great variety, and growing to the tops of the highest
trees, in the season of inflorescence filling the air with
its perfume.
In America, we cultivate, generally, two species of
the grape, the Vitis vinefera, which is the type of what
we call the European varieties; and the Vitis labrusca,
-of this species are the Isabella and Catawba, native
sorts.
The grape has been cultivated in all ages, and held in




xii         HISTORY OF THE GRAPE VINE.
high estimation.  The generally-received opinion of the
manner of its introduction into Europe is, that it made
gradual approaches by the way of the Miediterranean
Sea, the Phoenicians first carrying it into the islands
there, from whence it spread into Italy, Spain, France,
and Portugal, and thence north through France, Switzerland, England, &c., &c.; from  all these countries we
have received, in the United States, our varieties of this
species. It lives to a great age, and forms wood capable of being serviceable in the arts. The cultivation of
the grape, in its northern'extent, is not confined to a
certain parallel of latitude.  It has been observed in
Europe, that, as you go east, the cultivation of this plant
extends to the north.  Arthur Young says, that, in
France, the difference is 2~ of heat in the same parallel.
In the United States of America, the difference of climate is also found, but operating in a reversed manner.
In the same latitude, as we go west, is found a milder
climate, particularly after passing the Alleghanies, and,
on the Pacific, it is yet more mild.  At Fort Vancouver,
which is five degrees north of New York, the temperature is so mild that, in winter, the mercury falls but a
few times below freezing.
" GRAPE VINE.  Vit/s.
The generic name is derived from  vincir, to bind.
Every part of the Scriptures mentions the vine as being
held in the highest estimation.  Noah planted vineyards
and made wine.  They are mentioned among the bless.




HISTORY OF THE GRAPE VINE.            X.ii
ings of the promised land,' a land. of wheat, and barley,
and vines,' etc.
"  At what exact period the vine. was first cultivated in
England, is uncertain; but we conclude it was as early
as about the tenth year, A. D., as, at that time, the Ro
rans had possession of a great part of this island, and
had introduced the luxuries of Italy wherever they settled. Alany authors are of opinion that it was not introduiced into this country until about the year 280.
" That we are indebted to the Romans for the first introduction of the vine is generally allowed, although it is
possible it might have been introduced at a much earlier
period than we have stated, as the Phcenicians are said
to have planted the vine in the isles of the Mediterranean
Sea, as well as in several parts of Europe and Africa;
and as we have accounts of their trading to Britain, for
tin, they might have planted it on the English coast
also. But this must remain a matter of conjecture any
farther than as it confirms the vine to have been originally brought from Palestine. In the Book of  lumbers
we find that the menl whom Moses had sent to spy
the land of Canaan, returned with a bunch of grapes
which they bare between two, upon a staff.: The Damascus grapes, at the present time, are often
found to weigh upwards of twenty-five pounds the
bunch. In the accounts from 3,gidus Van Egmont, envoy fronm the States to the King of Naples, and John
Ileyman, professor of the oriental languages in the uni



-ivI HISTORY OF THE GRAPE VINE.
versity of Leyden, who have published their observations
on the )resent state of Asia Minor, it is mentioned that,
in the town called Sedonijah, which is four hours journey from Danmascus, some of the grapes were as large as
pigeons' eggs, and of a very exquisite taste.  From these
circumstances, we may fairly conclude that the vine is a
native of Syria.
" Although wine is not made in Egypt, vines are
much cultivated, and the grapes have a delicious perfuin e.'" Pliny concludes that the vine was very rare in Italy
in the time of iNuma, and, to encourage the pruning of
vines, he prohibited the use of any wines, in sacrifices
to the gods, that were cut from vines which had not
been pruned.
It was not until about the year 270, that the vine
was planted in the northern parts of Gaul, and about the
rivers Rhine, Maine, and Moselle, and in Hlungary.
" The various wines made from the grape are very numerous.  Pliny says, in his day there were eigihty kinds
of the best.
6 The island of Madeira was planted with the vine,
firom  cuttings brought from Cyprus, in the year 1420,
wrlen the island was first discovered.  The Rhenish
vine has also been planted there.
" The Cape of Good Hope has been planted with vines
from the Rhine, Persia, and other countries.' Tle juice of the ripe grape (says Dr. Darwin) is a




HISTORY OF THE GRAPE VINE.              XV
nutritive and agreeable food, consisting chiefly of sugar
and mucilage.  The chemical process of fermentation
converts the sugar into spirit; converts food into poison.
" It has been observed, that all the vineyards in Gert
many, beyond the 51st degree of latitude, are dubious.'
-PhiUips's Companion to the Orchard.  London, new
ed. 1831.
a Pliny states that the vines in Italy would climb to
the very top and even out-top the highest poplars; on
which account the grape-gatherers, in time of vintage,
put a clause in the covenant of their bargains when they
were hired, that, in case their foot should slip and their
necks be broken, their masters should give orders for
their funeral fire and tomb at their own expense.
"Ancient naturalists and modern travelers agree in
their accounts of the long life and immense size to which
the vine attains in its wild state.  Statues have been
carved from its wood, pillars have bean made from it,
and the large doors of the cathedral of Ravenna are also
made from this wood. Large tables have been made of
a single plank. Pliny gives an account of a vine six
hundred years old." —Chc(actal p. 142.
" Miller says, of the vines in Italy, that, in some parts
of that country, a vine is considered y(,unll  at one hundred years, and that there are plants in existence which
have been. cultivated three hundred years."-~ChaCptal.
" The Burgundy wine has been celebrated for its sui)rior quality certainly as far back as the 13th (ei lury.




XVI          HISTORY OF THE GRAPE VINE.
The kings of France have interested themselves in the
planting of vines in their domains.  There is proof that
Charlemagne had attached to the palaces which he inhabited, vineyards, and the necessary instruments for
making wine; and there you might behold the sovereign
enter upon the details of the management with the overseer.
"The garden of the Louvre, as of the other royal
houses, has contained vines since the year 1160. Louis
the young allowed annually, from  their produce, six
hogsheads of wine to the rector of St. Nicholas.
" Philippe Augustus, as shown by the account of the
revenues for the year 1200, reported by Bussel, possessed
vineyards in Bourges, Soisons, Compeigne, Laon, Beauvais, Auxerne, Corbeil, Betise, Orleans, Moret, Poissi,
Gien, Anet, Charlevane, Verberries, Fontainbleau, Rurecour, IMili, and several other parts of France."-Chaptal.
"The vine was introduced by the Phoenicians into
cultivation in Europe by the way of the Mediterranean
islands, Italy, and Marseilles."'-CAaptal.
"From the remotest records of antiquity, the vine has
been celebrated as the type of plenty *ind the symbol of
happiness.  The pages of Scripture abound with allusions to the fertility of the vine, as emblematical of prosperity; and it is declared, in describing the peaceful
and flourishing state of the kingdom  of Israel, during
the reign of Solomon, that  Judah and  Israel dwl't
s;afely, every man inder his vine an' under his;-tlre("




HISTORY OF THE GRAPE VINE.            Xvii
It is supposed to have been introduced into Britain at
the commencement of the Christian era, and history
amply proves that, for a long series of ages, vineyards
were very common in the southern parts of the island,
and that the quantity of wine produced from  them was
so great as to be considered one of the staple products of
the land.'"-Clernte Hoare. Lodon, 1837.
Konisburgh, in north latitude, nearly 55~, is considered
the limit at which the grape will ripen in Europe.
Humboldt has observed, that the best wines are produced from vineyards situated in the interior, away fronm
the sea-board, and remarks, that the cause does not alone
reside in the lower summer temperature of the coasts,
but attributes the difference to the light, from  a clearer
state of the heavens. He also says, "to have palatable
wine, not only must the mean annual temperature exceed 49~ 55', but that the mean winter cold must not
fall quite to the freezing point, 33~ 4', and this must be
followed by a mean summer heat of at least 64: 4'."








SITUATION OF THE GRAPERYo
FIRST in order, and of the utmost importance, is the
situation of the house. It must be so located, that stagnant water will not remain on the border, or within reach
of the roots of the vine.
If you cannot avoid building the house where water is
found to stand two or three feet under the surface, then
the soil should be thrown out the whole length and
breadth of the border, eighteen inches deep, and the bottom paved with stone or brick, so as effectually to prevent
the roots penetrating through it to the water. Make the
border on this, as directed hereafter; this will raise'the
top of the soil eighteen inches above the level of the adjoining surface.




20            THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
ASPECT FOR THE GRAPERY.
The house should front the south; a slight variation,
provided it is to the east, so as to receive the morning
sun, will be no objection.*
In the Gardeners' Chronicle of 187T, page T34, is an
account of some grapes exhibited at the Horticultural
Show, "raised in the city of London, under a glass case,
without fire heat, in an aspect nearly northwest, and
where they received only about one hour's sun in the latter part of the day; they were a small black kind, and
well colored, a fact corroborative of the opinion now entertained, that grapes should be sheltered from the direct
rays of the sun upon the fruit."
Mr. Hovey, the Editor of the Magazine of Horticulture, does not agree with me, in the opinion before expressed, relative to the aspect for the grapery. In a notice of the first edition of this work, he says, " Not so,
however, (all important,) the direction,' that the house
should front the south,' or'a slight variation, provided it
is to the east.' If forcing was only to be the object, this
would hold true; but, for the ordinary culture of the
grape, either with or without heat, it is by no means necessary. In our bright climate, any position but a north* Cultivators of the grape have usually advised this position for the front
of the house; several persons, who have had practical experience, would
prefer that it should front south ten or fifteen degrees east, or even southsoutheast.
"Every house for the purpose of forcing or growing fruit should stand
on a foundation naturally dry or effectually drained. As to aspect, the
standard principle is, to set the front directly to the south."-Abercrombie.




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.                2i
emn one will enable the cultivator to produce the most de.
licious grapes." I have houses fronting northeast and
southwest, (of course, with such aspect, the houses are
glass on all sides,) east and west, southeast and northwest,
and the other intervening points of the compass. I have
carefully noted the effect of the different positions, and
can, in the strongest language, recommend the aspect of
south, inclining a little to east, as the best. Southeast is
the next best; and east-southeast is preferable to southwest. The front of a house exposed to the west winds
(which are our coldest in winter and spring,) is liable to a
very low temperature till the sun suddenly shines upon
it, and then comes a sudden and rapid accumulation of
heat, very prejudicial to the welfare of the vines. I do
not wish to be understood as saying that grapes cannot be
grown in any but just such a position; I know that they
can be; but the care requisite, and the chances of failure,
are greater in ratio as the house in its aspect deviates
from the best position.  These remarks apply particularly
to the northern states; in the middle and southern, it may
be advantageous to avoid the great heat of the sun, if it
i~ intended to grow grapes under glass, and that in such
a position the best aspect for the front of the grapery may
be west-northwest.
THE HOUSE
The common lean-to house is the best for forcin g; from
thirteen to fifteen feet high on the back, four feet on the
front and twelve feet wide on the inside, are suitable pro



22              THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
portions; the length of it can be as desired, from  twenty
to one hundred feet or more.
The  front of the house  should  be  framed, the  sills
standing on, and secured to, stone, or locust posts, set
four or five feet under ground, and eight feet apart, thus
giving the roots freedom  to roam  at pleasure.  The floor of
the house should be on  a level with  the surface of the
border.  The back wall may be either of brick or wood.
If the house is to be used for forcing fruit, it should have
a double wall on the back.  A  span-roofed  house is the
best for a cold grapery.* It should be, above the sills,
on all sides of glass, and of the following dimensions:twenty feet wide, and of any length desired; the upright
sides above the sills, six feet high;  the rafters should be
* "In a span-roofed house sixty feet long, the south side glazed, the
north, wood and asphalte, vines will not do well under the latter.  Better
glaze the north span; but, depend upon it, you would do better still were
you to add another sixty feet to the length, and so form one hundred and
twenty feet of roof facing the south, instead of employing the same quantity of glass for a house half the length with a double aspect; and the more
especially, if it is intended for early forcing."-Gardeners' Chronicle, p. 696,
Oct. 1846.
A house of this construction is not suitable for forcing grapes, it being all
of glass, and consequently so open to the admittance of air in very cold,
windy weather, that it is very difficult to avoid such extremes of tempera;ture as will be injurious to vines.  If peaches or cherries are to be forced,
such a house is desirable, and, for many kinds of pot plants, no better can
be had. With respect to the correctness of the opinion expressed above,
that it is better to build k house of double the length, with the same quantity of glass, it depends upon what uses the house is to be put to.  As a
cold grapery, and as a house where the vines are aided by artificial heat,
(but not forced,) it is superior in its arrangements to the lean-to house, and,
under the same circumstances, will perfect its crop ten or fifteen days sooner,
and will yield a larger amount of fruit on a given space.  It is more liable
to damage from hail and fiost. (See description of one of my span-roofed
houses.)




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.               23
twelve feet long; this will make the height of the house,
at the ridge-pole, or centre, on the inside, fourteen feet.
The sills must be secured to stone, or locust posts, placed
eight feet apart, and sufficiently deep in the soil to be free
from  danger of being thrown by the frost. Place the
house fronting south-southeast. Y~bu may plant three sets
of vines,-one in the centre, and one on each side. Upon
a house of this description, the sun's rays will rest from
morning until evening, and the crop will conle rapidly to
maturity.
At the time of writing the above, I had a span grapery
twenty-two feet wide on the inside, (see view of this
house,) which had four sets of vines planted in it; at that
time, it was a matter of doubt with me whether or not
the vines were too much crowded; since then, they have
matured a fine crop of grapes, and the fruit on the two
inside sets of vines was fully equal in quality and quantity to those where the roots were in the open border, and
had more room to ramble and extend themselves. The
present summer, these inside vines have upon them  a
very heavy crop; each vine having shown from fifty to
one hundred large and handsome bunches. They will not
be allowed to mature more than from six bunches for the
Syrian, up to twenty for the Hamburgh, being only in
the fourth season.  When the vines are fully established,
the grapes will hang from the sill to the ridgepole, and
present a beautiful appearance. If there is ample room,
I would substitute this house for the one twenty feet wide,
and with only three sets of vines. This house at the present time has now been four years longer in bearing, and
the vines continue to do well, the inside ones being allow



24          THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
ed to bear ten to fifteen bunches each, the outside ones
twenty to thirty.
GLASS HOUSES-HOW CONSTRUCTED.
Glass houses, for horticultural purposes, may be constructed in a great variety of forms, to suit the particular
circumstances of the place, or ground where it is to be
located.
It is important to have as little obstruction to the admission of light, and as little solid wood work, as is consistent
with a proper degree of strength in the frame and sashes
which are to support the glass, as possible. It is also important, in frigid climates, to guard against the admission
of cold, or the escape of heat; consequently, the ends
and the back, or the north side of the house, are usually
built of wood, stone, or brick. Oiled paper and cloth,
and other preparations on cloth, have been used for covering the roof, but with no good result; glass is the only
article that can be used to advantage.  To admit air,
which is essential to the flavor of the fruit, and the wellbeing of the plant, the fiont lights, or windows, as also
the upper part of the roof-sashes, are made to open out,
or to run on rollers.
The curvilinear roof is approved by many.  The following description of some houses of my own, which
answer the purpose for which they were constructed
perfectly well, and the manner of building them, together with the cost, accompanied with a view of these, is
deemed sufficient for this treatise.




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.                    25
The account of the cost of two houses, built by other
gentlemen, that are so very unlike mine in their dimensions, has been added, as they may be the means of affording the information wanted, in some instances.
The following is a description of the plan and the
manner of building of the span-roofed grapery, which is
represented in the drawing as in full fruit, in Septenber.*
This is not heated by artificial means, and is what is usually called a cold house.
After the border was prepared, the stone posts were
placed upright, the bottoms of them  being three to four
feet deep in the soil, and eight feet apart.  Holes are
drilled about one and a half inches in the sides of these
stones, to which. the sills are secured by pieces of iron,
with the head flattened so as to be nailed to the timber,
and the end bent to hook into the hole; the posts should
not be less than six inches square. (Wooden posts, or
brick piers, may be substituted for the stone-; the former
will soon decay, and, if the latter are used, they should
be eight by twelve inches; the stones are best.) The dimensions of this house are as follows: twenty-two feet
wide; fourteen and one half feet high, on the inside, at
the ridge-pole; and a little short of eighty feet in length.
On the posts are placed the sills, (as above described,)
which  are six  or eight inches above the top of the
* See fontispiece. The view was taken from the northwest door, and
just within the grapery, as the object was simply to give an idea of the
house, and the arrangement of the vines. No attention was paid to the
proportions. This house is now used as a retarding one, and has a furnace
and boiler, with pipes for circulating hot water, which are used In October,
November, and December, to ripen and preserve the grapes.
2




26           THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE
ground; to the sill is:nailed, covering aboul two inches
of it and going down two inches into the e-;'1, thick
plank, finished with a bevel, like a water t,;b-!. This,
from the top of the sill to the earth, makes a solid work
of at least twelve inches, which is necessary, as; lass so
near the earth would be very liable to be brokrn, and
would also be covered with the soil spattered up b  thle
rain.  In winter, it will be prudent to tack or other:wise
secure above this, boards, one foot in width, to prevent
the breakage of the glass from  the ice and saow falling
from the roof.
The sills are of timber six inches square.  All the
measurements are after the work is finished.
The timber which forms the support for the rafters,
and is immediately over the sill, and called the plate, is
five inches thick by six inches wide.  The studs or. upright pieces, which support this plate, are of pi,:a-? two
inches thick by six inches wide, and are mortiied into
the sill and plate, and secured by wooden pins.  The sill
and plate are carried round the four sides of the house
on a level, and are secured together; this rmakes the
frame, thus far, very firm, and prevents the two euds
from  pressing in or out from any cause.  Before the roof
was put on, the plate was strengthened and braced, and
kept in place by iron rods one inch thick and about
fifteen feet apart, which are run through it and fastened
by nuts, and crossing the house.
A cleat, five eighths of an inci in thickness and on,
inch wide, was nailed on the sill, and plate, anvd.uisl
Rc fJ.:-ri a rabbet for the sashes; these are place,:  in, from
the outer side, so that the sashes, whien closed, are (on the




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.                 27
same line with the outside of the studs. Tb,, ciorei-f
posts are six inches square.  The height of l.e stn..s.
between the sill and the plate, is six feet one inclh.
(They must be nmade longer, to allow for the part used in
the mortise.)  The upright sashes are three feet ten
inches wide, and six feet one inch long, and glazed with
six by eight glass.  The stiles, or side pieces of th!
sashes, are two and one fourth inches wide, and one ain
three eighths inches thick, and the rails, or top an-d i:,ttom  pieces, are two and three fourths wide; the inside
pieces, of which there are four, are one and throe eightihs
inches wide, and seven eighths of an inch thick  thoey
are rabbeted to take the glass; they go from  top t; boittonm. There are no cross-pieces used for glazing l bt this
is begun at the bottom  of the sash, and the'nB-t g)lass
lapped on the first about one fourth of an inch, (:i;; any
more, as it is more likely to break,) and so on, on.e aiove
the other; all the sashes are glazed in this manner;
there are five rows of glass to a sash.  The sae:s are
strengthened in the middle by a piece of iron, one inch
wide and one fourth of an inch thick, which is cut in
even with the surface of the sash, on the insid-, and secured with a screw in each stile and inside piece wa hich
supports the glass. These sashes are hung on h-mis at
the top, and open out, and are fastened on tihe iiide
with pieces of iron one fourth of an inch thico: and- one
inch wide.  This is about fourteen inches lon.i, rand it is
secured to the rail of the sash by a staple; a.Ad., to hold
the sash closed or open at any desired distancc ion';'n  two
to ten inches, another staple is driven into the sill; the
iron plate has holes drilled in it, at dl::t:, es Of two




28          T.HE CULTURE OF TUHF GRAPE.
inches from  the one that is made to secure the sash,
when shut, that it can be kept open to allow the air to
enter the house as wanted, in greater or smaller quantity; an iron pin secures this plate to the staple.  On the
ends, the lower sashes are made like the cide O:tes, but
they are all stationary.  (In this house, o.ily c:("v':i  other
one of the sashes are made to open; t'hey."aa si. ioA   Os
if desired.)  The sashes above the plate.ce:mad at to it
the inclination of the roof.
The roof is formed by rafters ma.de u' plank; they
are about thirteen feet long, two inches t:i ik,: and nine
inches wide.  A strip of wood, the length of the lower
sash, is nailed to the rafter to support this on the roof.
Another piece is nailed on the upper part to support the
other sash; this must be put on in a line with the lip on
the lower sash to allow the upper to run over the under
sash; this lip is four eighths of an inch thick. On the
top of the lower sash is a piece of hard pine for the rollers of the upper to run over, of which rollers there are
two on each side of the upper sash; they are of east iron,
secured to an iron plate, and screwed on the under part
of the stile.  The roof-sashes are not of the same length,
the top ones being made shorter than the lower to run
up and down more easily, the difference being about two
feet.
The bottom rail of the lower sash of the roof is four
and one half inches wide; the top rail is two and three
fourths inches; the stile is two and one fourth inches
wide, and one and three eighths thick; this is nai.i.d at
the bottom to the plate, and on the side to the rafters.
In the upper sash, the stiles are the same as in the;~i



THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 
der, and the rails are both alike,-two and three fourths
inches wide; the inside pieces in both sashes are of lthe
same dimensions as the upright ones, and, in all, are
bevelled off, instead of a moulding, to about three eighths
of an inch in the center.  Both sashes are strengthened
with iron rods, let in even with the surface of the under
part of the wood work, and screwed to each stile and inside piece, as are the upright ones; the glass is glazed in
the same way.
The center, or ridge-piece, to which the rafters are let
in and secured, is a plank two inches thick and ten inches wide; the groove for each rafter to rest in is about
three eighths of an inch deep; they are fastened together by nails; between the rafters, for the sash to rest on,
is a piece of plank.  As the means of lowering or shutting the upper light, or sash, a staple is placed in the
ridge-piece, to which is fastened the end of a line, that
is then led through a side pulley on the sash, and thence
through a standing pulley on the ridge-pole to the floor,
where it is secured.  (Or, what is better, have a weight
of six, eight, or ten pounds attached, as may'ie necessary.)  The pulleys are of iron, and screwed on to the
wood.  The finish of the ridge-piece is with a.-pimg of
boards, that are of a width to cover the'         a;,per [.ar, or
about an inch of the sash.  The wood work;i'c, houise
is simply planed smooth, and painted; i;'ue)  arei no
beads or mouldings.  On the rafters, after the sashes arie
fitted in place, to make a finish, are capping boards of
suitable width.
Two doors two feet eight inches wide, are placed op




~0          THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
posite to each other at the ends; they are of gla..:, fnad
are made like the upright sashes.
The above is a description of the manner of buildl ig
the ends and one side of the grapery; the other h ifal  is
made, in every respect, in the same way.
The expense of building this house, including the preparation of the border, which is fifty feet wide, and. tle
vines, some of which, being rare, cost high, was abrut
$1,000.
The following is a description of the manner of constructing a lean-to house with a room extencling the
whole length of it on the back, or north side, t.o Ibo,.::.ed
for the furnace, or other purposes. (See cut.)
The sill should be set on posts of stone, (both o'-r' 7:;. h
must be six inches square,) and to extend aroundc orn a11
sides of the house alike; the posts should be three or
four feet in the earth, and eight feet apart, and'i.e tcps
of them eight to twelve inches above the surftl;   i;o ke:'p
the sill from rotting.  On this should be nailed a a plan,
extending into the soil an inch or two. You l:ima msake
the width of this house twelve or fourteen feet; that is,
the part of it which is to be covered with glass, and the
back room from four to seven feet, as may be wanted.
A partition which is to be made here will require a sill
and posts, in the same manner as the other parts of the
building.
The front plate should be four feet from the top of the
posts, and four inches thick by six inches wide; the upright sashes, two feet four inches high, and about three
feet ten inches wide, and one and one fourth inches
thick, hung on the top with hinges, and made to open




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.                81
on.   The studs tvhich support the plate are to be of a
length proportionate to the sashes, and the wood work below, thean, and mortised in. The whole finish of the
fro.u- and the make of the sashes, and the manner of
fastening them on the front and on the roof, are to be the
saie    i detC-ailed for the span house; the rollers on the
wl;t::ov;,~. ald the irons to secure the front sashes, are
mrrld   xactly in the same manner, and put on in the
LEAN-TO GRAPERY.
same v'a,. Under the front sashes, there must be about
eighteen inches of solid wood work joining on to the
plank which goes from the sill to the earth.
The rafters should be about seventeen feet long, and
ten inches deep by two inches thick, to be finished and
let into the ridge-pole, in the same way as in the spanroofed house. The back of the house should be friamed,
Ioarded. shingled, and plastered on the inside.  The




32           THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE,
back roof, which is to decline at a proper pitch, should
be boarded, shingled, and plastered.  Under the ridgepolse must be the studs to support this, and these should
bet twelve feet in the clear between the ridge-pole and
the sill, and here should be a double partition of plaster
to separate the front of the house from  the back.  The
rafters and the ridge-pole must be finished with a capping board.  There are to be two doors, one at each end,
two feet eight inches wide, of glass; the ends are also
best of.glass,* and the sashes should be permanently secured.  Gutters may be placed under the roof to lead' the r-t...er where desired.  Solid brick work may be
substituted for the support of the sills, leaving spaces six
inches -sL.arme for the stems of the vines to be brought
through.'..e back wall may also be built of brick or
stone, bu, tJ-.e, would be more costly constructed in this
way.
At L-oue built, as above described, on stone posts, in
the plainest manner, but of good materials and workmausihip, and well painted, would cost about eight dollars per running foot. The heating apparatus would be
in addition; also, the expense of preparing the border,
purchasi.ng the vines, and the planting of them out.  The
cost of the border, and of the heating apparatus, must
vary according to the natural soil, and the purposes to
which thA house is to be put.  Making a border twentyfive or tbirty feet wide, and three feet deep, is an expensive work. and will vary from one to two dollars per foot.
The sa;rK remark will hold true with the heating of the
* Double wi;dows, or shutters, should be used on the ends, if the hous
ks for forcing




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE..33
house; a grapery forced in winter, (that is, in Decembor,)
will, in a severely cold climate, require a very expensive
apparatus; a furnace and flue, for forwarding and protecting the vines in the spring or autumn, is a simple and
cheap affair, and the cost will vary, according to the
amount of heat required, from one dollar to three dollars
per foot.
I think ten dollars the running foot is the lowest price
at which a plain grapery, with a simple furnace, can be
built, with vines planted, and all complete; and this cost
can be increased, according to the material used in the
construction of the building, and the finish put upon it)
to twenty dollars the foot.
The following is an account of the cost of a hlouse Constructed on the most economical principle, f-::-ndihed me.
by a friend residing in a city adjoining Bor^t. ---
" I send you the account of the cost of -my grapery,
which is thirty-two feet in length, twelve feet in.uidth,
and thirteen feet high on the back, and three feet on the
front; and this front is wood work, supported by wooden posts.
Cost of sashes,.... $25 00'"       glass,...       14 00
"6  " glazing,...         21 00
c"  " frame, painting, &c..  75 00
"      flue,..             50 00
"6  " border,.             40 
Whole cost,....         $2.   0
6 My grapery is placed against the back part of my
2*




84           THE CULTURE OF' THE GRAPE.
house, which would make some difference in the ex
pense. I have not included the vines, nor the-wires for
the vines to be trained to."
It will be noticed, that the cost of the back of the
house is saved in this instance.  This would vary according to the finish and kind of back used; if of the cheapest kind, wood and shingles, and plastered on the inside,
with a small furnace room, it might be built for seventyfive dollars; but, if a room  for the furnace and for the
coal was made running the whole length of the grapery,
which would be proper in a cold climate, if the house
was to be used for forcing, the expense would be considerably greater.
The cost of a house of this kind, with the back wall,
would not be less than ten dollars the running foot, and
this would include every thing, the vines of common
kinds, and the wires or rods for the trellis.
Thie price of labor, in different places, would cause
si ti,,  variation in this sum, and a more extensive furnace
room or building on the rear would add from one to two
dollar; per foot to the cost, according to the kind of room
or wa-1 constructed.
The following is an account of the cost of a small
grapery, on all sides of glass, with a brick foundation,
furnlfhed me by a gentleman of Salem  --
"All the space which could be spared for the purpose
was seventeen square feet. The house is seventeen feet
in leIgh by nine feet in width. The briek foundation is
eigt inches thick, and two feet high, (with four hanging
windows in front, of three panes each, seven by nine
glass,) on which is placed a sill six inches deep. There




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE                 35
are five rafters, with a corresponding number of posts on
the back of the house, framed into a plate at the top.
The inclined sashes are permanent; the angle of inclination is fifty degrees.  The vertical sashes on the back
side are nine feet in length,'The ventilation is from the
back, the ends and the front.
" The border is eight feet wide, well-elevated, fifteen
inches deep exclusive of a substratum of bones, nine
inches deep.
" There are five front vines, which are planted on the
outside; four back vines in the alternate spaces, and one
vine at each end, are planted on the inside. The entrance is at the end of the house by a porch projecting
three feet, and containing an inner lattice door for ventilation.
"The house would be more airy, and better in every
respect, if twelve feet in width. The border also, if possible, should have been twelve or fifteen feet wide; which
would obviate the necessity of an annual manur i g.l d,
guano, in order to carry off the crop well.
" One hundred and twenty-five pounds of well-ripened
grapes can be safely calculated upon from suc  a  rb.oso
as the above, as a permanent annual crop; say fivre frocnt
vines at fifteen pounds each, seven back and end vines at
seven pounds each.  With a wider border, the froirt vme-s
would ripen equally well twenty pounds each.
" Cost of the whole, including vines, preparat.:n of
border, and all expenses, two hundred and sevseny-five
dollars; or, about sixteen dollars the running foot, TLa
grapery is not heated by artificial means.
This house is built on a brick foundation, and the




.36        THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
finish is of the most complete kind; fifty or seventy-five
dollars might have been saved, if desired, in the labor
bestowed on the wood-work."
FURNACE FOR HEATING TdE GRAPERY.
In remarks on forcing, it has been intimated that the
simple furnace and flue are, at all times, a valuable aid
in the grapery. They are of easy construction, and may
be made of these dimensions, and after this plan.
The furnace should be sunk in the earth so that the
top of it may not be over ten or twelve inches above the
Sfoor of the house. It should be so placed, that the
whole of the heat may be given out in the grapery, the
door and end being in the furnace-room, so that the
smoke and dust from the fires may not injure the foliage
of the vines. The pit for the furnace should be about
four feet wide, and three or four feet deep, and of convenient length for working the fire. The furnace should be
two feet or two feet six inches wide, and about three feet
in length. The ground should be paved with stone or
brick for the foundation; on this build the furnace, leaving ten inches in height in the centre, and of the length
and width of the grate for the ash-hole. (See end view
of a greenhouse furnace.) Now set the grate, which will
require about two and a half inches of space; build up
the brick work, leaving a space for the fire of about
twelve or thirteen inches high by ten or twelve inches
wide, and two feet four inches deep on the inside. The
door should be of cast iron, and on a cast iron frame,




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.`37
which should be set in the masonry in building.  The
grate endures the heat from the anthracite coal better if
cast in separate pieces, half an inch thick, and two and
a-half inches deep, with two spaces of about an inch in
length, at proper distances from  the ends, where the
thickness is three-fourths of an inch, the ends, also, being
of this size. The sides of the fire-place must be built of
fire brick; the top must be covered, also, with tile, or
brick of this material, if coal is to be used. The tile on
the top should be covered with one or more courses of
brick.  MIy. furnaces have five or six, to retain and prevent too great escape of the heat. In the cut, the top of
the furnace is represented as arched; this is not necessary, but it may slope from the front to the back, where
it enters the flue, three or four inches, with benefit to the
draft,  At the further end of the furnace, the fue should
commence, and should have a rising of certainly two or
three feet from the grate, to insure a good draft; the flue
should run to the front of the house, and thence along
this, at the distance of twelve inches from the wall. This
flue should be of brick, carefully made, to prevent the
escape of smoke or gas; it may be eight to ten inches
square on the outside, or it may be fourteen inches wide,
and eight inches deep, and covered with tiles; either
answers perfectly well.. If the house is a very small
one,-less than twenty feet,-the flue may return on the
back of the house, and the smoke be carried off by the
chimney near the furnace.  If the house is over twenty
feet in length, the better way will be to continue it around
the end to the back wall, and up by a chimney out of
the roof, as represented in the cut of the lean-to houses




38          THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
The flat, for the first twelve feet after leaving the furnace, should be built on two or three courses of brick,
(or a stone toundation may be substituted,) fiom  thence
to the chimney either on plank, (which is preferable on
account of drvness,) or on bricks laid one or two inches
apart; one course of brick is sufficient for the floor of
the flue. I usually have the first few feet of the sides of
the flue built with the bricks laid flat, and, after this, on
their sides, as represented in the lean-to house.
HEATING APPARATUS FOR CIRCULATING WATER ON THE
LEVEL PRINCIPLE.
When the house is to be heated with hot water, (which
I prefer when a great and steady heat is required through
the whole winter,) the furnace and flue should be built
and arranged in the same way as detailed in the preceding article; but, instead of covering the furnace with
tile and brick, the boiler will be used. This may be of
cast iron, or of sheet copper, and of proper size for the
furnace.  It is necessary to have fifteen or eighteen
inches depth to this, that ample space may be allowed
for the pipes, one above the other, on the side. The
lower one should enter as near the bottom  as possible,
and the upper one as near the top. The principle upon
which the water acts is this, that hot water is lighter
than cold; consequently, when this becomes heated by
the fire, it risks to the top and thence to the pipe; the
cold water in the lower pipe comes in to fill the space of
that heated, and the circulation commences, and is more




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.              39
rapid when the boiler contains but a small quantity of
water, provided the pipes are always full, which they
must be. But it is essential for a rapid circulation that
ample distance be allowed between the pipes, which may
be from four to six inches in diameter; the lower one
should be arranged first, and supported and kept in place
on a perfect level, by brick or stone. Above this, should
be the upper and warmest one, properly levelled and arranged. You may place the pipes on either side of the
furnace, but the side next the front of the house is usually
the one considered best; I would recommend four to six
inches for the space between them.  I have in my
houses, at the extreme end, a tank containing thirty gallons or more of water, to which the pipes are attached,
in the same manner as to the boiler; but this is not necessary, though preferable. The pipes may connect at
the end by an elbow, and they work equally well; but a
tank at this place with a quantity of water, which becomes heated, is of service, as this is the coldest part of
the house. An opening must be provided on the top of
the boiler, or tank to fill these with the water.
THE POLMAISE SYSTEM OF HEATING.
Much discussion has been held of late in England, relative to this mode of heating green and other houses for
horticultural purposes, and some curiosity has been excited in this country as to what the system is. The principle is similar to that upon which many of our churches
and dwelling-houses have, for many years, been warmed




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THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.                41
It is the same with air as with water,-the heated becomes the lighter and ascends; consequently the cold or
heavier descends, and fills the place vacated.
In the view of the furnace which is given,* the Polmaise system is attached, the arrows showing the current
of heated air over the furnace, and the bending one the
rushing in of the cold air to fill the space, and thus the
circulation is kept up while the heat is in the furnace.
The end view  shows the hot-air chamber over the furnace; the two dotted places in this are the openings for
the cold air.
The side view shows also the smoke-flue and the finish
of the furnace, with a dead air chamber to receive any
ashes that may pass from this and prevent their entering
the flue.  One opening in the covering of the Polmaise,
for the escape of the heated air, is shown, and this covering maylbe continued as desired, and the heat led by
brick, or copper, or other pipes to any spot desired.  In
the hot-air chamber may be placed pans to contain water, that the heated air may have the required moisture;
these can be regulated at pleasure, having more or less,
or none at all, as the state of the house requires. For
instance, in the early stages of forcing, you would require all the moisture that could be obtained in this way.
If, with such an apparatus, a fire was made to preserve
the fruit from frost or other causes after it was ripe, probably no moisture at all would be wanted.
* This is copled from the Gardeners' Chronicle, with some slight alteralions.




42          THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
POLMAISE SYSTEM ATTACHED TO A FURNACE ALREADY
CONSTRUCTED.
I have had attached to a furnace already constructed,
(and that has been some time in use,) of dimensions
similar to the one described, a system  of circulation of
the air which has proved very successful.  It is very sinlple. The furnace has been enclosed, on the three sides
within the house, with brick work, leaving two or three
inches of space only for the hot-air chamber on all sides,
and this brick enclosure is continued along the sides of
the flue, (where the heat is great,) for about ten feet.
The whole of this brick work is then covered with stones,
placed two inches above the furnace, and the heat is led
into any part of the house by a brick flue, covered on
the top with stones and closed at the ends, with two
openings near the extremity for the hot air to flow out
on each side.  An opening is left, about three inches
square, on the level of the floor on each side in the brick
work that surrounds the furnace, close to the back wall
of the house, to admit the cold air, which commences to
rush in as soon as the furnace and flue become warmed;
and this circulation continues for hours after th6 fire has
burnt out, the brick work retaining the heat a great
length of time. The cost of this apparatus was about
twenty-five dollars additional.




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.                      43
PREPARAT'AION OF THE BORDER.
The l)order should be twenty feet wide, for each set of
vines, —if thirty feet, the better,-and two and a half or
three feet deep; If you have but little room, you can
manage to grow very fair grapes with twelve feet of border; but, in this case, you  must not plant the vines so
close together.*   The following course is recommended
in preparing the border:If the soil is a good loam, begin at one end and trench
it; mark off ten feet the entire width; throw  out the
soil two feet deep; if bones, or the carcasses of animals
can be had, cover the bottom well with them; if these
are not readily procured, slaughter-house manure  may
be substituted;t mark off ten feet more of the border,
and cover this manure with part of the soil from  it; upon
this, put an inch or two of oyster shells, or old lime rubbish, mixed with broken bricks; over this, put some soil
from the border; then a good covering of cow manure 
upon this, a slight covering of loam again, followed with
a good portion of oyster shells, or the substitute; and
over this, a thick covering of stable manure, well rotted;
finish with a covering of the loam.:  The whole length
See Planting the Vines.
j See Manures.: Drain for the Border.-If drains are necessary, they should be made
after this plan: the main one to be of brick, extending the whole length
of, and on the outside of the border, the bottom of this being covered with
stones not less than one foot deep. On these, every six feet, should ba
smaller drains of brick, tile or stone, leading to the main one, and this can
be carried to any convenient point. I have never found it necessary to
form these under any border, stones at the bottom answering every purpose  Very few situations can require them in this country.




AA4            ZTHE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
is to be made in this manner, in alternate spaces of ten
feet  each  trenching.   After it is finished, the  border
should be three feet six inches deep; it will settle to less
than three feet in a few  months; any soil left, after it is
finished, can be carried off.
Dr. Lindley is of opinion, that. in the draining of the border, the imurovement is more by the admission of air and heat than by the removal of
water.-Car'deners' Chronicle, 1847, p. 651.
* The above is the method by which I have twelve thousand square feet
of border prepared.
After throwing' out the soil, the materials are placed in the border, and
following each other in these proportions: First, nine inches of the strong
slaughter-house manure, (or the carcasses of animals, or bones, etc.,) four
inches of soil, two inches of shells, four inches of soil, six inches of cow
manure, four inches of soil, three inchles of shells, four or five inches of stable manure, and six inches of soil.
These articles were thrown as roughly as possible into place, and not
levelled; the first manure, for instance, in some places, would be only six
inches deep, and in others, ten or twelve, or more, just as it would happen
to fall from the shovel, the above measurements being near what they
would have been, if on a level  Avoiding, as much as possible, the forming of layers, which, at first sight, would seem to be the case, but the juices of the strong manures would be all imbibed by the soil placed amongst
them, andl rendered rich accordingly.
In the strong manure, at the bottom of the border, no care was taken to
have the same material throughout; but, as they could be procured, they
were placed in position, as fresh as possible, (before they became offensive.)
If the carcass of an animal was had, it was simply quartered, and laid in
and covered with the soil.  If the entire skeleton of the horse was had, (of
which there are, in this border, at least forty,) it was similarly placed, as
also the slaughter-house manure; but when, as was the case in some parts,
bones were used which had been boiled, the floor of the border was covered with these from two to four inches deep, and the freshest cow manure
which could be had was placed to the depth of from  two to four inches
upon them, and this again was covered with a like quantity of bones, which
were stuck into the manure in every direction, care being taken that they
should not lie flat on its surface; the object in view, being to have as rich
a material in this case, as when the other manures were employed. Sometimes, old mortar and brickbats were mixed with the shells, and used in
connection with them.




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.                            45
The proportions recommended for this border, are onehalf loam, one fourth bones, or other strong manure, oneeighth oyster shells, or lime and brick  rubbish, and  oneeighth rotten stable manure.
Before planting the vines, the border should be spaded
over, to mix well the top substances, being careful not to
disturb the strong manures at bottom, as these substances,
when  decomposing, would  destroy  any  of the  roots  of
the vine with which they came in contact.
Should the soil be poor, decrease the proportion used
in preparing the border, and, in the same ratio, increase
the manures, or substitute the top soil of a loamy pasture.
If the soil is very poor, or unsuitable  for the purpose,
so as to require to be removed entirely, then  a comhpost,
prepared thus, is reconmmended:-one half to be the top
soil of an old pasture; one quarter to be bones, or some
other strong manure; one eighth oyster shells, or lime
and brick  rubbish; one-eighth  rotten  manure; these articles thrown together in a heap, and so  to  remain until
In preparing this border, there was found a difference in the natural soil,
part of it being a very rich yellow loam, several feet deep, and part of it a
gravelly or slaty soil, not more than two feet deep, upon a bottom of rotten rock.  The rich soil did not require as much manure as the thin, and
received le-s. but more shells, and old mortar, and bricks; and the thin
slaty soil received more than the above proportions of manures, and less of
the shells, etc.  This border is on a hill-side, and these are the extremes
of' soils at the top and bottom.  Thus situated, there was no occasion for
rocks, or any kind of drainage at the bottom of the border, and, consequently. none was used.  In a border since made, to the above ingredients, I
have added a good proportion of charcoal screenings, and, when they can
be had conveniently, they should always form a part of the compost, as being, valuable, tending to keep the soil porous and light, and, also, as affording moisture in seasons of drought, arc  as absorbents of ammonia from thei
atmosphere.




46          THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
decomposed and amalgamated, when they should be
placed in the border, and thrown loosely together.  MIy
borders, having the most slaughter-house manure, or
whole bones of animals in their composition, still continue, as they ever have done, to produce the best fruit
and the largest crops.
It is unnecessary to attempt to give rules for every
kind of soil.  One must use his own judgment, and make
his border to consist, as near as can be, of the above ingredients.  He must bear in mind that, if his soil is a
stiff, clayey loam, he must add freely of such materials
as will lighten and give permeability to it. If the soil
is light, sandy, or gravelly, with the manure should be
added a proportion of clay or of clayey loam. The rich
alluvion soil, abounding in our western and south-western States, will not require any of these strong manures.  If anything is requisite to improve them, it must
be shells, charcoal, leaves, small stones, or gravel, —such
materials as will loosen the soil.
If a compost is to be prepared, as As usually recommended by European writers on the cultivation of the
grape, by taking the top soil of an old pasture, &c., and
throwing them  into a heap until decomposed, two or
three years are required before the border is in readiness
for the vines; whereas, by the plan which I have adopted,
the vines may be planted immediatety, making due allowance in the placing of the vine for its settling, which
will be in proportion to the freshness of the manures, or
the carcasses of animals that enter its compost, which,
in dissolving, diminish greatly, and this in ratio to the
flesh upon them; the large bones will change but little




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.               47
for many years. What is wanted in a grape border, is a
rich, permeable soil, enduring in its nature, in which the
roots can ramble and spread freely. Too much water
will injure the fruit; a deficiency of moisture will prevent its swelling off properly
The following account of Soils and Manures, as recommended by several eminent cultivators, is annexed:Speechly recommends "the soil to be one fourth part
of garden mould, a strong loam; one fourth of the swarth
or turf from  a pasture where the soil is a sandy loam 
one fourth, of the sweepings and scrapings of pavements
and hard roads; one eighth, of rotten cow and stableyard dung mixed; and one eighth, of vegetable mould
from  reduced and decayed oak leaves.  The swarth
should be laid on a heap, till the grass roots are in a
state of decay,-and then turned over and broken with a
spade; let; it then be put to the other materials, and the
whole worked together, till the separate parts become
lliformly mixed.
A garden, and consequently the hot-house, is sometimes so happily situated in regard to soil that it seems,
by nature, adapted to the growth of the vine.  The soil
in which I have known the vine to prosper in a superlative degree, without artificial aid, was a kind of rich,
sandy loam, intermixed with thin beds of materials, like
jointed slate or stones, and so very soft in its nature as
almost to be capable of being crumbled between the
fingers.  The following extract from Virgil, on this topic,
will be deemed neither inapplicable nor disagreeable to
the candid reader:,




48           THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
But where the soil, with fat'ning moisture fill'd,
Is clothed with grass, and fruitful to be till'd;
Such as in cheerful vales we view from high,
Which dripping rocks with rolling streams supply,
And feed with ouze; where rising hillocks run
In length, and open to the southern sun;
Where fern succeeds, ungrateful to the plough,
That gentle ground to generous grapes allow.'
"As the vegetable mould from  decayed leaves cannot
always be obtained, by reason that the leaves require to
lie two years before they become sufficiently putrid and
reduced, it may be necessary to substitute some other ingredient in lieu of this part of the compost.  Rotten
wood reduced  to a fine mould: the scrapings of the
ground in old woods, where the trees grow  thick together; mould out of hollow  trees, and sawdust reduced
to a fine mould, provided it be not from wood of a resinous kind, are, in part, of a similar nature with vegetable
mould from decayed leaves, but are neither so rich nor
powerful. It is very probable that there are various
other kinds of manure, that may be introduced inic a
compost suitable for the vine with as much effect as the
former; as blood, the offal of animals or shambles, horn
shavings, old rags, hair, shavings of leather, and bone
dust. This last is exceedingly proper, as, at the same
time that it gives a lightness to the soil, it contributes to
its fertility. I may also add to the former the dung ot
deer and sheep, as, likewise, (poudrette) night soil. But
please to observe, that many, if not all, of the above re
cited manures will require time to meliorate, before they
can be introduced and incorporated with the other part
of the compost.  The dust, or dirt, from roads consists




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.              49
principally of the following particulars: first, the soil of
the vicinity; secondly, the dung and urine of horses, and
other animals; and thirdly, the materials of the road itself, when pulverized.
" After having specified manures known to be friendly
to the vine, it may not be improper to name some that
seem hurtful to it. Soot, wood ashes, pigeon and hen
dung, would all, I think, be too hot for the roots of the
vine. These are manures that come immediately into
action, and are more properly calculated for top dressing.
Pond mud and moor earth would probably be too cold,
and the latter might canker the roots of the vine, and
therefore, on that account, had better be omitted.
" In the autumn, to prevent the roots of the vine from
being injured by the frost, they should be mulched to the
thickness of three or four inches with strawy manure.
A little very rotten manure may be spread all over the
border. This is to be done the first season after planting.
"By the end of the second year after planting, the
vines will have extended their roots to almost every part
of the border: and as, at this tender age, the roots are
very liable to receive injury by severe frosts, I would advise the borders to be covered the thickness of three or
four inches with long, dead, strawy dung. This is to be
removed in the spring; a little of the very rotten may
be permitted to remain, as this, with the addition of a
little rotten cow dung, should be worked into the border
every spring."
Extract by Speechly from Marshall's Travels, which he
introduces by saying that he hopes will prove acceptable,
3




50          THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
as the kind of manure, and the best time of applying it,
are of the utmost importance:-' iMy landlord told me, that he had an intimate ac
quaintance, a vigneron, at Verzenay, who was reckoned
one of the most careful managers in all the country, and
that he would give me a letter to him, requesting him to
give me all the information I desired. This [ readily
accepted, and proceeded to Verzenay, where I inquired
for the vigneron the landlord at Chalons had written to.
We walked directly into his vineyard, which was dung-.ng, in trenches made for that purpose.  The season for
this, most approved here, is directly after the vintage,
and to be finished before the winter sets in. It is all carried in on the heads of women and children in baskets,
and they empty their baskets in trenches dug for that
purpose, which are doing at the same time, and others
spread it in the trenches, and cover it with mould immediately.  Sometimes the trenches are made along the
center of the intervals, at others, they are dug between
the plants.
" The sort of dung they prefer most is cow dung, that
is, the cleanings of the cow-houses, which are well littered with straw or stubble for that purpose; horse dung is
also used, but only on stiff soils. They reckon that five to
eight hundred baskets are necessary for an acre of vines.
The baskets, I reckon, hold about half a bushel, and this
manuring is repeated every four or five years. Making
dung is so much attended to throughout all the wine
country, that every means is used to increase the quantity. Much cattle are kept, especially cows, and housed
as much as possible. These are fed by every means that




TH E CULTURE OF THE tRAPE.              51
can be taken. Every weed, every blade of grass that
arises, is saved with as much care as the grapes, and given to the cows. Dang is, however, sometimes laid on in
AMarch, but it is not thought so proper for that work as
autumn.  Over-manuring is thought prejudicial.  But
this depends on the soil; for some lands are so deficient in
natural fertility, that, unless they are manured more than
commouly, they will not yield a crop; they lay a thousand baskets, and sometimes even twelve hundred on
such.
Speechly says that the vine requires " a plentiful supply of water during summer, particularly in a hot, dry
season.
"'  It was planted in a good soil by great waters, that
it might bring forth branches, and that it might bear
fruit, that it might be a goodly vine.'-EzekMel, xvii. 8.
"In hot countries, the vine is said to grow the most
luxuriant in a situation which is near the water, but it is
generally allowed, that the flavor of the grape from vines
in such a situation is much inferior to that of grapes
growing in a dry soil.
Cc During winter, I have frequently watered the vine
border with a thick, black liquor, the drainage of the
dunghills; and, though this practice was intended solely
to enrich the soil, yet it is not improbable but this powerful liquor, by being impregnated with saline particles,
may communicate a warmth to the roots of the vine during the winter, and thereby prove serviceable in that respect also. However that may be, from the uncommon
vigor of the vines, I have been led into a belief of the
utility of this practice. But let me at the same time obh




52           THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
serve, that I have always applied this powerful manure,
(if I may so call it,) with great caution. I have found
the beginning of winter the mlost proper time for using
this kind of manure; and then I only venture to give
two or three plentiful waterings, fearing that, if this were
to be applied either in the spring or the summer, or even
in too great quantities, it might tend, from  its great
power, to cause the leaves of the vine to change from a
green to a yellow hue. The drainage of the dunghill is
the very strength and power of the dung; for water,
constantly filtering through stable yard dung, certainly
robs it of the mucilage and saline particles with which it
greatly abounds, when newly made; and especially such
dung as has lain a considerable time in the stable, and
imbibed a large portion of the urine of the horses. The
saline particles are increased by the fermentation, therefore the first extract obtained from the dung, after it has
undergone its fermentation, may be justly considered as
the essence of the manure.
" Although soils of different qualities admit of improveinent by various modes of practice, yet, without the
aid of manure, the farmer would find his utmost exertions
of but little value.  And though some have endeavored
to prove that the earth, when duly pulverized by the action of the plough, does not require manure, (Mr. Tull, in
his New Husbandry, tells us that, where the ground is
properly managed, manure is an useless article; but his
opinion is now generally and justly exploded;) yet experience tells us that it is the very life and soul of husbancdry; and, when judiciously applied on almost every




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.                53
kind of soil, its effects will seldom disappoint the expec.
tatiun of the farmer."
By an experienced grape grower.-This person says
the border " should be from thirty to forty feet in width,
and should be formed of loamy soil, sharp sand, and at
least a fourth part of well rotted horse dung.'-S. A. MXI,
Loudon's _iCagazine, vol. 10th, p. 266.
By A. Forsyth. —"  At the back wall of the grapery,
the soil is prepared to the depth of six feet; and at the
further extremity of the border, (sixteen feet wide,) there
are three and a half feet of soil composed of equal parts
of the following soils: turfy loam, (the top spit of a very
old undisturbed piece of pasture, occupied as a rick
yard,) two parts; rotten dung, one part; lime rubbish,
one part; gritty mud, (the same as road drift,) one part."
-~Loudon's JcYagazine, vol. 10th, p. 547.
By Jasper Wallace, gardener to William Forsyth, Esq.,
of Cayton.-" The situation for the border, if not naturally dry, must be made so by draining. The best bottom, in my opinion, is one formed of large flat stones got
from  the top of a lime rock, which is of a nature that
would assist the growth of the vines when they reached
it.  The border ought not to be deeper than from two
feet to three feet; as, if it is more, the roots of the vines
will get away from  the action of the summer weather,
and the good of the manure that may be put on the surface. I would have the border formed of decomposed
turf and good black earth, with a sufficient quanitity of
decomposed cow dung, vegetable mould, and slaked lime,
well mixed by frequently turning it, and which should
be allowed to lie for two years, if convenient.




54           THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
"With regard to the surface manuring of the borders
as soon as the wood of the vine is fully ripe, it should be
forked over, about two inches deep, with a blunt dunlgfork, and six inches of the best cow dung should be put
on. To supply liquid manure for the border of one
house, get one bushel of common salt, as much black.
soap, and a quantity of the drainings of stable yard
dung, all put into a large cask, and allow it to stand for
a week; after which, mix it with a large quantity of rain.
water, and put it regularly over the border; then put on
as much common earth as will completely cover the
dung, but no more."-London's Jlagaziez, vol. 12th,
p. 244.
Mr. London, in his.Encyclopedia of Gardening, after
quoting the composts, as recommended by Speechly,
Abercrombie, McPhail, Nicol, Griffin, and Judd, adds
these words: "The depth of the border must be regulated, in all cases, by the subsoil, and the climate.  Where
the former is moist, and the latter is cold, the shallower
the soil is, the better; on the contrary, where the subsoil
is perfectly dry, and the climate hot, as in the south of
France, the depth may be unlimited."-Articl3 3564,
p. 778.
For the composts for the grape border, as recommended by Abercrombie, see soil used by him, Open Culture.
"Fresh, light hazel loam, mixec with lime rubbish,
leaf mould, and a small portion of decayed hot-bed
dung,9 is advised by John Rogers, editor of the'rnai.
Cultivator, published in London. 1887.
"An excellent vine border may be formed upon an
impervious dry bottom, two feet deep, and composed of




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.               5
light, rich, loamy earth, enriched with rotten manure,
ground bones, and lime. It is better to extend the border in breadth than in depth.-  C/Charles Jfeintosh, London, 1839.
Clement Iloare, in an after-edition of his work on the
Grape Vine, recommends that, for winter-forcing, the
vines be planted on the inside of the grapery, and, to do
this properly, he says the soil should be removed from
the inside of the house, which is to be supported by a
wall of solid masonry on all sides to prevent the roots of
the vines penetrating it to the outside.  After the soil is
removed, his plan is to pave the ground with brick, set
in cement, and this space is intersected with brick work,
with openings occasionally, for the roots to penetrate and
ramble. This brick work is to be a support for the
bricks which are to cover the whole, after completion.
The substances, in which the vines are to grow, are broken bricks, lumps of mortar, charcoal, and bones, in
equal proportions, soaked in urine. Htis idea is, that these
materials, once moistened and then placed in the situation prepared as above, can never become dry; that the
moisture of the earth will keep the whole mass sufficiently supplied with water, and that it never can have an excess. In planting the vines, the roots are to be carefully
spread out, freed from all soil. It is advised to have two
pieces of woolen blanket, which are to be first soaked in
soap suds, to plant the vines in,-one to be spread on
the bottom  and the roots laid on this, and the other to
cover them; when this is done, cover over with the compost above named, and, when the whole is paved over or
the top, the work is complete.'This, it will be observed,




56           THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
is planting without a particle of soil.  I have never attempted to grow vines after this plan, and most surely
shall not; still, it is to be presumed, occasionally, a plant
may succeed.  Where the soil is very wet, the plan,
with the addition of one half of good loam  to the compost, doubtless would do well. In the damp climate of
England, this compost would probably retain sufficient
moisture, and never become dry, as 3Mr. Ioare says;
but, in the severe droughts of the United States, in most
situations, the plants would die.
In proparing a suitable soil for fruit trees in general,
De la Quintiney says: " The best earth for this use is a
sort of rich sandy loam, which may be taken from near
the surface of some rich pasture ground, where cattle
have been fed or fothered, or of some rich sheep-walk,
where there is a depth of earth, and if it is mixed with
a little old mellow earth, or the like, it may do well; or
cow or horse dung may likewise do well, if it is quite
rotten, so as to be like earth; but of this a small quantity, as one part in four or five, and thoroughly rotted."
p. 9.
New earths he also recommends as suitable for trees,
&c.; these he defines as being " such as have never
served for the nourishment of any plant, or else have
been a long time built upon, &c.; likewise, earth from
some rich pasture-ground, of a sandy, loamy nature,
where cattle have been a long time fed, is of excellent
use for most sorts of plants; especially if it has been
thrown up in heaps to meliorate, and has taken the winter frosts, it will be so much the better."  p. 17.
"Now since the gret defects of ear:thl are too ruebc




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.                57
moisture, coldness, and heaviness, also lightness, and an
inclination to parching, so amongst dungs, some are fat
and cooling, as that of oxen and cows; others, hot and
light, as that of sheep, horses, pigeons, &c. And whereas the remedy must have virtue contrary to the distemper it is to cure, therefore, hot and dry dungs must be
used in cold, moist, heavy earths, and oxen and cow
dung in clean, dry, light earths, to make them fatter and
closer. Not that these two sorts, though the principal,
are the only materiais for the amendment of earth; for,
upon farm  lands, all sorts of stuffs, linen, flesh, skin,
bones, nails, hoofs of animals, dirt, urine, excrements,
wood, fruit, leaves, ashes, straw, all manner of corn or
grain, soot, &c.; in short, all that is upon or in the earth,
(except stones and minerals,) serve to amend and better
it."  p. 29.
"I look upon sheep's dung as the best of all dungs,
and most promoting fiuitfulness in all sorts of earth.  La
poudrette and the dung of pigeons and poultry, I seldom
use,-the one is too offensive, and the other is full of
small insects prejudicial to plants." p. 31.' Vines thrive and produce better grapes in certain dry
grounds than in cold strong earths." p. 34.
" When the vines show any diminution of vigor, refresh the roots with dung or soil."  p. 156.
The following articles are from the Gardeners' Chronicle, edited by Professor Lindley.  Some of them are answers to correspondents, who have asked information upon
the points replied to:"Your vine border, covered with frames, should be
well watered with manure water before you begin fore



58          THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
ing, and occasionally till the grapes begin to color."
1846, p. 680.
"Soil for the vine'border.-Good turfy loam and dung,
with some peat, two and a half feet deep.  It will be
better for the vine if n') other plants are allowed to root
in the border." 1846, p. 696.
"Calcareous  soil suits vines better than silicious."
1846, p. 712.
" Turfy maiden loam, made into a compost with bones
and plenty of cow dung, will make a good border; but
the situation being very dry, you must take care to mulch
and water well in summer."  1847, p. 72.
X, Y, Z, (Hants,) says; To apply a manure to a vine,
it is necessary to dig a small trench around the roots of
this plant, (which is best done in the autumn, after the
fruit is gathered,) then to apply a bucket of ox-blood, and
pile up the earth over this and around the stem of the
plant."
"J. B., (Lynn,) says; I have collected in barrels the
whole quantity of slops from  the house, consisting of
chamber lye, soap suds, &c., and, when the mixture begins to emit an offensive odor, I have saturated the border with it."
"J. L. Snow  says:You may, with safety, use the
above liquid especially if the border be well drained."
1847, p. 509.
" In a communication which was read at the Horticultural Society's meeting, it was mentioned that Mr. Ayre's
border was made wholly above the surface, and formed
first of a layer of concrete three inches thick, on a sloping bottom, with a line of drain pipes opposite each raf




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.               59
ter; over these were then laid from one foot to eighteen
inches in thickness of brick rubbish, intermixed with
oyster shells and rough bone dust, materials which were
also freely mixed with the soil. The latter was stated to
be turfy loam mixed with leaf mould.  At present, the
border is only about six feet wide and abo! t eighteen
inches deep; but it was mentioned that it is ihtended to
add four feet more to it this autumn, and, when finished,
which will not be for some years to come, it will be
twenty feet in width. It was stated that the great object
kept in view, in forming this border, was to make it porous rather than rich, the latter being left to top-dressings and liquid manure.'  1847, p. 60T7' Pigeon manure, mixed with fresh soil, will certainly
improve your vine border."
" You may apply manure water any time, except when
the crop is ripening off.'
" Large bunches of grapes have been produced on a
vine, of which the roots came in contact with the drainage in a court-yard of an inn, frequented throughout the
year."  1847, p. 624.
" Bones  as a  Manure.-The researches of the chemist
and the practical testimony of the farmer having more
fully established the value of bones as a manure, it behoves us to ascertain whether they have been employed
)n gardening as extensively as they deserve. The greatest obstacle to the more general use of bones in gardening, as well as in farming, is their undergoing decomposition so very slowly. —   Succul, Exotic TNursery, Che6sea."  1847, p. 639.
i Vineries at Bishop's Stortford.-The borders are ad



G0          THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
mirably constructed. The houses are built on the side of
a low hill, with a gravelly bottom.  On the suzrface of
the natural ground, which was coated with concrete, the
border has been formed three and a half feet deep at the
back, and two and a half feet deep in the front, so that
it slopes from back to front, where it is rounded off. No
rain can ever lodge there.  It was formed with burnt
clay, (the bottom of some old brick-kilns,) loamy turf
from an old pasture, plasterer's rubbish, hair and trimmings of hides (called fleshings) from the tan yards, and
an enormous quantity of thoroughly rotten stable manure,
-the last border alone consumed a barge load of forty
tons of such manure. All these materials, after being
thrown together, were thorouglyy incorporated. They
form so loose a bed that a stick may be easily pushed
through it to the very bottom. Every November, these
borders receive a good mulching of stable manure, which
remains to rot in the succeeding summer; so that the
surface is always covered by a rich decaying material
which absorbs heat from the sun, and detains the natural dampness of the border. The vines are managed
upon Mr. Crawshay's plan.
"These vines were planted in 1843, cut back in 1844,
when each at once made the whole of the single rod that
furnishes the crop. These rods are now, on an average,
five and a half inches in circumference, and run straight
wp the center of each light, so that the leaves and bunches are exposed to all the light and air which the houses
can furnish. The fruit produced by this practice is represented as being very fine, the bunches not remarkably
large, but the berries are said to be beautiful, and the




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.               61
fruit equally distributed on the vines throughout the
house."  1847, p. 683.
"A. B. says: In forming a new border, I should recommend the soil to be excavated to the depth of three
feet, not more, but the wider the border is, the better,twenty feet is not too wide. There should be a drain in'
front, and the border should slope well to it. I would
bottom  with rough sandstone, or some material which
would secure perfect drainage; and I would cover the
latter with thin turf, or peat, to prevent it from being
choked up. As compost, I would recommend one fourth
old mortar, bones, and charcoal,-the bones and charcoal to be broken, but not too small; one fourth, decomposed tree leaves; and the remaining half, the top spit
of a good old pasture, or common, which should have
lain eighteen months in a heap, and fiequently turned
and exposed to the frost. The whole being well incorporated, fill in the border, taking care to tread as little as
possible.' 1847, p. 685.
" In our opinion, it is doubtful whether any material
like slaughter-house manure is fit for vine borders.  Its
effect is to cause excessive growth, and, for a little while,
large quantities of grapes; but the effect is transient,
and plants suffer finally. It is much better to employ
bones, hair, woolen rags, skin, tanners' fleshings, and
similar substances.  See Mr. Nash's border, Bishop's
Stortford." 1847, p. T36.
Here the question naturally arises, What is slaughterhouse manure? or, of what does it consist? It is to be
presumed that this manure varies very much, in its component parts, in different countries, being affected by lo.




62          THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
cal customs. What I meant by the substance, (and
which I have used in my grape borders, and recommend
as a substitute for the carcasses of animals, or bones,)
consists mainly of the intestines, with the manures which
were in the animals at the time they were killed, all the
heads, horns, and feet of sheep, and a good share of
bones, and other refuse of other animals.  The half of
the bulk and weight of the manures has been the heads,
the lower half of the legs, and other bones, with some
flesh, and skin, and hair, etc., upon a large part of them.
Nvow  all these articles are very powerful manures, and
very lasting in their nature, and should not be placed in
the border until decomposed in some measure, or, which
is better, put at the bottom  of the border, where the
roots of the vine will find them the second or third year.
A large part of the fleshy matter, in its decomposition,
turns to a liquid, and the soil near by imbibes this, and
is enriched thereby.  These substances, when in this
state of decomposition, if they come in contact with the
roots of the vine, will instantly destroy the part touched,
and this is why I place it at the bottom of the border, to
be there for the future use of the vine, and out of the
way of doing mischief.  If this material is to be used as
a top dressing, it should remain in the compost heap till
it is entirely decomposed.  I consider it, when placed as
directed, at the bottom of the border, a most valuable
material for the nourishment of the grape vine; but, if
whole bones of animals can be obtained in sufficient
quantities, I give them the preference; not that they are
more valuable, but because the slaughter-house manure




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.                63
is (let it be ever so fresh,) always an unpleasant and disagreeable object.
In countries (as I presume is the case in England,)
where the heads and bones of animals are considered too
valuable tc be thrown into the manure heap at the shambles, the most lasting, and, for this purpose, the part constituting the properties for which it has been recommend,
ed are wanting, and it is of no more value than any
other stimulating manure.
" As some difference of opinion exists respecting the
proper covering for vine borders, I have ventured to give
the material I use, which answers (under the circumstances,) as well as any thing I have seen recommended. At
the first appearance of frost, I cover the border with dry
beech or oak leaves, (two feet or more in thickness,)
newly fallen from the trees if I can get them; cover with
a little litter to keep them  from  blowing away.  In
spring, as soon as fine weather sets in, I remove the leaves
entirely, fork the border over lightly, and add a nice top
dressing of rotten manure mixed with the best soil I can
procure.' In making the border, I have followed Mr. Hoare's
plan, as far as possible. The foundation is flagged over
with a deep drain running round the outside.  I laid on
the flags eighteen inches of broken bricks, lumps of old
mortar, &c., with a little small on the top, in which I put
a three inch sod (grassy side down,) to prevent the compost from getting down amongst the bricks.  The principal part of the compost consisted of rich turfy loam, leaf
mould, and rotten dung, with lime rubbish and gravel to




64          THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
keep it open, and plenty of whole bones and a little carrion to make it durable.-A  Subscriber."  1847, p. 837.
-Renoovation of Vine Borders.-After stating that these
must be legion, (if we may judge by the number of complaints,) which require this remedy, and that the cause
mainly is stagnation, it is recommended to enlarge or renew the drains, which are supposed to be inefficient or
improperly arranged, or to have become choked up by
age. There is added: " TNow even a border made of
loanm,-unless what is termed sandy loam,-if two or
three feet in depth, would become in time too much
closed up to suit the natural habits of the vine; how
much more, then, a three-feet-deep border, in which decomposing organic matter constitutes nearly one half its
volume! Every body knows that this black and fatty
humnus,-for such it becomes by age,-does not, in its
own nature, contain sand sufficient to ensure at all times
a speedy transmission of moisture, and to secure permeability to the atmosphere, especially if buried nearly a
yard in depth."
Here follow directions for introducing drains, and holes
filled with open " rubbly matter," &c., and then this advice:  "After these things are accomplished, it would
be well to fork in a dressing composed of lime rubbish,
charcoal, coarse sand, bones, &c., on the surface, not going deeper than six inches, unless there are no roots in
the way. Finally, the border may be coated over with
three inches of manure from the stable door, if to spare.
This, however, should only lie from  November until
midsummer; it might then be removed, and an inch  aI




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.               65
two of old vegetable soil or decayed linings substituted
in its room."  1847, p. T1.
Vine Borderqs.-By James Duncan, Basing Park, Alton.  " I am now forming a border for the growth of this
plant.  I employ a two-horse cartload ot dead lime rubbish, with which some brickbats are mixed, and a sack
of half inch bones, (for each vine,) well incorporated with
a loam  of very thin turf, taken from  an old common;
the whole is covered over with six inches of road scrapings, with which some charcoal will be mixed when tho
vines are planted. The border, when finished, will be
about two and a half feet in depth, and sixteen feet in
width, resting on a substratum  of flint stones, sloping}
from the house, and two feet in thickness, so as to affor I
effectual drainage; and this I consider a most essential
point in the formation of vine borders."  1847, p. 205.
Vine  Borders.-By  llobert  Greenfield, gardener,
Tynemouth House, Northumberland.  "The bottom  of
the border is chalk; on this is laid one foot of rubble
stones, and, upon this, the compost of rotten turf from a
common which has lain undisturbed for fifty years."
1847, p, 358.
"All vine borders, whether early or ahte, should be instantly covered a foot deep, if possible, with rotting manures; this will intercept the departure, o the remaining
ground heat, and will contribute much to the fertility of
the vines in the ensuing year. Vines fot eQ\r1T  \rcing,
with outside roots, will soon be benestLd ty,'ight
amount of fermentation in the border coveri.T -,     t.,
20th, 1847, p. 20.




66          TEE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
RIemcarks on the Cultivation of the Vine.-By James
Hutchinson, Gardener at Cranston Hill, near Glasgow.
After some remarks relative to spur and other systems
of pruning the vine, this writer goes on to recommend
the long cane system as the best. As I have explained
this plan fully and stated the objections to it, I shall not
repeat here his remarks, but shall give what he says relative to the temperature of the house and border where
the vines are to be forced. In my opinion, they are well
worthy of careful attention.' I commence fbrcing about the end of February, or
beginning of March; previously to which, I cover the
vine border, to the depth of ten or twelve inches, with
horse dung of the best quality.  Before this dung is laid
on the border, it should be thrown up in a heap for two
or three days, until it begins to heat properly. It should
then be laid on the border without delay, as its powers
will be greatly weakened by the process of fermentation.
The temperature of the surface of the border will be
raised, by means of this dung, to about 500 Fah., a point
of great importance. It is evidently contrary to nature
to be forcing the vines when the roots are exposed to
cold, or, at least, deriving no warmth to stimulate the
juices of the plants. I keep the temperature in the hothouse at about 50~ in the morning, at first; and about
55~ during the day, if dull weather.  If the nights are
very cold or frosty at the commencement of forcing, if
the therlnometer is 48~ in the morning, I am  satisfied.
This heat is continued until the buds are all broken; after which, the thermometer may be allowed to range between 50~ and 55~ in the morning, and about 60~ during




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.               67
the day, if dull weather. In clear weather, from the
commencement of forcing, I ol)en the upper door of the
furnace, merely keeping the fire in during the day, and
allow the temperature to rise in the hothouse to Y0~, T5~,
or even 80~.  Were there a continuance of clear weather
at this stage of forcing, 80~ would be too high; but, for
a day or two, it does not matter, although the thermometer should rise to 80~ in the middle of the day. This
temperature should be continued during the day, should
the weather be clear, until the first leaves of the vine are
fully expanded, when the temperature may be kept between 85~ and 90~ in the daytime in clear weather.
When the vines are in flower, I keep the temperature between 55~ and 60~ in the morning, and between 65~ and
T0~ during the day, if dull weather, and about 85~ if sunshine.  After the grapes are set, the thermometer may
be allowed to rise to 90~ or 95~ during the day in clear
weather.  In dull or wet weather, in summer, instead of
kindling fires at night in the ordinary way, I cause the
flues to be heated in the morning in order to raise the
mercury in the thermometer to about 70~ during the day,
and allow the fire to burn out towards night. The temperature in the daytime, from the commencement of forcing, should be regulated, in some measure, by the heat
of the vinehouse during the night. For example, if tlhe
house has been colder during the night than I could wish,
I keep up a greater heat than usual during the following
day; and, if it has been warmer during the night tllhan I
consider requisite, I give less fire during the day than
usual; or more air, according to the state of the weather" Many may object to the lowness of the temperature




68          THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
that I have recommended during the night, when the
grapes are in flower; but all the kinds cultivated here,
including the Tokay, Black Hamburgh, White Sweetwater, &c., uniformly set well with the heat above mentioned. Indeed, when the nights have been frosty, during
the time my vines were in flower, I have seen the thermometer as low as 52~ in the morning, and I never observed that they sustained the least injury by this low
temperature.  Too much dependence has hitherto been
placed on the influence of fire heat in the forcing of hothouses. The great art is to do with as little fire heat as
possible, and to take the utmost advantage of the heat
derivable from  the sun's rays, consistent with giving a
sufficient quantity of air. The legitimate use of fire
heat is to prevent the bad effects of frosts, snows, and
inclement weather.
"I may now say a few words on giving air. In clear
weather it should always be given early in the-morning,
and taken away early in the afternoon.  For example,
let a small portion of air be given between eight and
nine o'clock in the morning, and, if the day continue
clear, give more between ten and eleven, and take it all
away at three o'clock.  I seldom  let air into my vinehouses after three o'clock in the afternoon.  If air be admitted until the house is completely cooled, a large fire
may be necessary to support the requisite temperature;
and it is evident that sun heat is better and cheaper than
fire heat. —Sept., 1838.
By the foregoing, it would appear that the plan of
covering the border with heating substances, for the purpose of raising the temperature of the border, was sug



THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.               69
gested and practised before Mr. Roberts's book appeared.*
It differs fiom his plan in not recommending the continuance of this heat by renewing of the fermenting
materials, which renewal, in my opinion, is necessary.
M.r. A. Forsyth, in a diary of the culture of the grape,
published in Loudon's Magazine, vol. 10, page 548, also
gives directions relative to the covering of the border, as
follows:
"Nov. 25th, 1833. Forked the border about three
inches deep; laid on turfy loam  and old lime mortar
about two inches deep; then old hotbed dung, well rotted, two inches deep; the roots being near the surface,
having been planted as shallow as possible.  27th. Laid
leaves on the vine border one foot thick, and fresh hot
dung one foot: protected the above from rains, &c. by
reed covers, used at other times for pine pits.  Dec. 1st.
Fire heat applied.  Jan. 5th, 1834. Heat of dung on
the border, 96~. 19th. Heat of dung on the border, 65~.
Feb. 1st. Dung on the border nearly cold.  March 12th.
Dung, leaves, &c. cleared off the border to admit sun
heat, &c.; the border was forked over.  April 12th.
First berry of the Hamburgh beginning to change color;
border watered with dung water, (dry weather.)  M'ay
10th. Grapes exhibited at the gardens of the London Horticultural Society, for which the large gold medal was
awarded, the berries measuring three and a half and four
inches round."
I cannot agree with Mr. H[utchinson in the propriety
* See Mr. Roberts's plan for heating the border, and remarks relative
thereto.




~70      THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
of his giving fixed hours for opening and closing the
lights for the purpose of giving air. These directions
may be good for a certain house, and very unsuitable for
another.  They may be, and probably were, intended as
applicable to a house with a front due south.  Now, if
the front should be to the southeast, the house thus situated would be exposed to a very great heat one or two
hours before the time specified, and, in the months of
May and June, the lights in bright weather would require to be opened much earlier. Again, if the fronting
of the house inclines to the west, eight or nine o'clock
would be, perhaps, too early.  His principle, as applied
to the forcing-house, is correct, but he errs in giving fixed
hours for ventilating  the house, when he should have
substituted the range of the mercury as a guide.  In this
country, in May and frequently in the summer months,
the mercury ranges in the daytime from T5~ to 90~ in the
shade.  At such times, how unsuitable for the welfare of
the vines would be the closing of the windows of the
grapery at an early hour!
Culture of the Vine under Glass.-By James Roberts,
London, 1842.
This work is very concise, and, for the climate of England,@ unsurpassed in its directions for the preparation
of the border, etc.; yet there are objections to it, particularly as concerns the cultivation in this country. It
is divided into six short chapters. In the preface, Mr.
* If we can judge from the result of the practice, as detailed by the author, whose statements, as regards the crop of fruit and its fine Quality, are
corroborated by the Gardeners' Chronicle.




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.               71
Roberts states " that it has been his study to bring the
vine into a bearing state earlier than what is commonly
practised.'
The first chapter treats of the border; the opinion of
the author upon the different composts as recommended
by Speechly, Abercrombie, fAawe, and others, and his
own plan upon the subject, which is as follows:
"The borders outside the houses ought to be twentyfour feet wide, cleared out to the depth of three feet
six inches upon a bottom of retentive clay, well prepared, with a fall of one foot from  back to front.  A
main drain ought to run along the extremity of the
border, one foot six inches deep, with cross drains, in an
oblique direction, leading into it, so as to have perfect
command in draining off superfluous water, which I consider an essential point to attend to, so as to lay their
dry (more particularly where the climate is humid);
I then laid upon the bottom thus formed, broken stones
and lime rubbish to the depth of one foot, leaving a
depth for compost of two feet six inches. Upon the
broken stones, every six or eight feet square, I have
placed large limestones, of the same nature as the farfamed Skipton rock, which I have no doubt contribute to
retain mol ture in a dry season, and to facilitate the
drainage in a wet one.  The compost and manures I
most recomrncnd, and which I made use of, are, two
parts the.parings of a piece of old pasture land, a strong
loam, laid up one year, (or till the sward is half decomposed,) in the form of a potato hod, close covered in
with soil, and never turned; one part, the turf with four
inches of thie soil, of a looser texture, laid up for the




72          THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
same period, and not turned, as before; an eighth part,
scrapings of the highways formed from  limestone, or
other hard material; and the other eighth part, half-decomposed horse or cow dung. I am not an advocate for
turning over and mixing the materials promiscuously together, as, by often turning, the compost becomes too
solid, losing a great portion of its fertilizing property by
such repeated intermixture; and, unless it be of a very
sandy, loose texture, the border will, in a few years, become impervious both to water and to atmospheric air,
which are of incalculable benefit to the growth of the
vine. I would recommend the autumn, if the weather
be dry, to prepare to fill in your border. A month previous to filling your border, provide a quantity of carrion, cattle dying by accident, disease, &c., which, I am
sorry to say, has, of late years, been too common an occurrence.  If you have collected it sometime beforehand,
have it cut into small pieces and laid up in soil, till the
time of using. It emits a very nauseous effluvium, but
this must be borne, for this is the pabulum to produce
the nectar of Bacchus. When all is ready, and the weather favorable, proceed at one end of your border, wheeling in and mixing the materials in proportion as they
stand to each other in my previous directions, on no account breaking the materials in mixing, but turn them
in as rough as possible, adding one good-sized horse or
cow carcass to every ten or twelve square yards, using
caution, and not bringing it to the surface of the border
within one foot, as its assistance is not wanted the first
year.  What I have here recommended, is my practice
adopted at this place, the result of which, I dare pre



TIE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.              73
sume to say, has surprised all, both gentlemen and practical gardeners, who have witnessed it."
Mr. Roberts then goes on to say:'" Still, an improvement might be made on this border, particularly where a
cool and humid atmosphere prevails, as it does, to a
great extent, in the northern parts of these kingdoms.
"To obviate this defect, I should recommend, instead
of a border two feet six inches deep, with one huge
stone every six or eight feet square, to put four or five in
the same space, allowing the border, when filled and
settled, to be from fifteen to eighteen inches deep, and to
plant the vines as near upon the surface as possible; you
would then be better able to add a top dressing to your
border every autumn, so as to feed and keep the roots
of your vine near the surface."
The second chapter treats of the kind of grapes for
the vinery, etc., and of the different methods of propagating the vine; his plan is by the single eye, as follows:
" Choose bold, prominent buds, taking two inches of
wood; on each side cut a little sloping, opposite the eye;
then pot singly, in thirty-two sized pots, using leaf
mould and sandy loam in equal parts,' prepared fourteen
days before placing in the pit.  "When your pit is
ready, having been filled with stable dung and tree
leaves, so as to command a bottom heat of 80~ or 85~,
which you can easily ascertain by inserting a Fahrenheit's thermometer to the depth of a foot, proceed to
plunge in your pots, which you may safely do, being
rather sparing of water the first fortnight or three
weeks, and never using the water at a lower tempera4




74           THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
ture than the heat of the bed. The temperature of the
pit must not exceed 55~ by day, and may be allowed to
fall to 45~ in the night, until the buds are in motion.
They will then require the raising of the heat gradually
until it reaches 55~ by night, by the time the first leaves
are fully expanded; allowing them  ten or fifteen degrees more by day, or sun heat, keeping a moist temperature, syringing, and shutting up early in the afternoon.
By the time they have grown a foot, or eighteen inches,
they will require removal to larger pots."
In the third chapter, the method of planting is detailed, etc.' For a vinery, some authors recommend
inside planting, with which I don't agree, except for the
back wall, or for a succession crop, intended to be trained
below  the rafters of the roof vines.  Presuming your
borders have been made and properly settled, as advised
in a former part of this work, in the month of March or
April, carefully turn your young vine out of the pot,
taking its top through an opening in the sill left for its
insertion, leaving two buds clear inside the house; this
will leave the ball three or four feet from the front of
the vinery. Open the soil opposite to each rafter. Then
proceed to single out the roots with great care, spreading
them  out in the fan manner, filling in amongst them
with the compost of leaf mould and sandy loam, keeping
them as near the surface as possible, laying in the young
cane forward to the wall, and not allowing it to be buried
more than three inches. A little water would be of service, at the time of planting, in washing in the soil, to
the benefit of the roots, mulching them over with a little
litter. In the course of a week from  the time oft plant



THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.              75
ing, lay on the surface of the border, over the roots and
stems, stable litter and leaves in a good state of fermentation, to the width of eight feet, and two feet six inches
thick, which will prove of great benefit to the young
plant by putting its roots in motion, and cause that part
of the stem that is layered to emit healthy roots in abundance, not employing artificial heat inside, but giving
plenty of air, which still continue, until you perceive the
buds in motion, allowing the house to rise to 65~ or TO0
by sun heat; syringing the buds and steaming the house
as the heat rises in the fore part of the day, closing early
in the afternoon, and allowing the house to cool down, as
night approaches, to 48~ or 50~.
When your shoots have sprung three or four inches,
make choice of the best, and rub the other off. As the
shoots elongate, tie them carefully to the wires, taking
off all tendrils and laterals as they appear. I may be
allowed to say, that the method of pruning I recommend,
to bring a young vine into a permanent bearing state the
soonest, is by single rod, on the spur principle. As the
foliage becomes fully expanded, raise the temperature in
the night gradually to 60~, as I consider 60~ or 65~ a sufficiently high night temperature for the young vine, in
its first season of growth. The temperature in the day
may be allowed to rise 10~, 20~, or 25~ higher, by solar
heat, keeping up a very humid atmosphere. If the heat
of the leaves and litter has begun to decline, work them
up again with some good hot stable litter, covering the
border two feet wider.  If the heat at the root can be
maintained at 90~ or 950, your prospects will be the
more cheering, as, by keeping a low temperature in thu




To6      THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
house through the night, the roots of your vines, at that
season, will be in active work, preparing and gathering
food for the following day.' As the season advances, your vines will be. ast approaching maturity; keep your house less humid than
before. If the weather proves open and warm, you may
reduce the manure at the root, taking away the whole as
your vine ripens towards the extremity, as it will have
performed its good offices to your satisfaction; but you
had better leave two or three inches of the shortest dung,
or else lay on a few decomposed leaves, as you will perceive the heat of the dung will have kept and encouraged the roots, on and near the surface of the border.
By the time the wood has attained a good brown russet
color at the extremity, you may prepare them  for next
year, as they will bear pruning, though the leaves may
not drop for weeks, any time without danger.
"'My practice is, to disbud the cane as soon as the
wood is ripe. You may proceed thus: beginning at the
bottom  of the vine, leaving a bud you think is well
placed and on the side of the shoot, then cut clean out
the two following, leaving the fourth, taking out the
next two, and so on till you reach eight or nine feet in
height, as to that length the cane must be cut back; proceed again at the bottom, disbudding the other side in
the same manner, so that, in that length, you will be
able to leave eight or ten permanent eyes, to form fruitbearing spurs for the following year, or five on each side.
Having cleared your border of the superfluous manure
which will be the case by the beginning of July, during
that month1 and August Ikeep my border nearly exposed




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.               77
to the full rays of the sun and air, by which means the
majority of the roots having been kept on the surface,
by the heat added as before mentioned, are more perfectly ripened, so that in September I am enabled to give
them a light top dressing (though only the first season,)
of ground bones, loamy soil, rotten manure, and decayed
carrion,-these manures are all, I have proved, great fertilizers of the vine,-covering the whole with an inch or
two of half rotten stable manure, to prevent evaporation.
"The vines planted on the inside of the house will require attention at the root; they want great support as
their foliage becomes fully developed.  I make use of
liquid manure diluted, and, clear rainwater, alternately,
but always in a tepid state. I never allow a vine border
inside the house to be watered with cold water after vegetation commences, until the fruit or wood is ripe."
Chapter 4th.  " Presuming that all has gone on favorably the last season, you may expect a nice sprinkling of
grapes from your young vines only planted one year;
but I caution the tyro not to be anxious in wishing to
produce very early grapes; if too sanguine he will do
this at the expense, and to the great detriment, of the
future welfare of his young vines. The first, or middle
of March, I consider sufficiently soon to begin forcing,
the second year.  A  few days previous to commencing,
lay on the border, to the width of twelve or fourteen feet,
good fermenting stable litter and leaves, to the depth as
mentioned for last season. The time your vines will take
to break will be a fortnight or three weeks.  (Previous
to forcing, the vines must be washed with a composition




78          THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
of soap, sulphur, etc.) I generally keep my vines tied
horizontally along the front until every bud is in motion.
Keep a low temperature in the night, say 45o, till you
perceive them all moving; 150 or 20~ higher in the day
will do no harm, by sun heat, syringing them morning,
noon, and night, and keeping a very humid atmosphere.
When the buds are fully broken, tie them up to the roof;
you may raise the temperature gradually in the night, up
to their time of showing fruit, 80 or 100; the same
by day, observing to keep up a very humid atmosphere.
Syringe lightly, and close your house early in the afternoon. Your vines will now be showing three or four
bunches at every eye left at winter-pruning; by no
means leave more than one bunch on each shoot, and one
on the leading shoot. My practice is to stop the shoot
on the spurs at one eye beyond the bunch, taking off all
laterals and tendrils as they appear. The leading shoot
must be kept neatly tied up, divesting it of laterals, &c.,
as for last season, until it reaches the top of the house;
you nmay then stop it, leaving a lateral or two to keep it
in check, as well as on each spur, if danger is to be apprehended from the breaking of the natural buds. As
they approach the time of blooming, raise the night temperature gradually to 65~ or 68~, increasing the day temperature in the same ratio, keeping the house, when the
vines are in bloom, rather dry."  After the grapes have
set, and are thinned, the temperature of the house is to
be, at night, " say 65~; and 85~, 900, or 95~ in the day,
with a very humid atmosphere.
" If cloudy, cool weather should intervene, keep up a
brisk heat, by stirring well your fires early in the morn




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.,             7T9
ing, and, up to midday, keeping up to 800, or 85~ with a
very humid atmosphere, allowing your fires, or boilers,
to cool down in the after part of the day; it is my practice to give heat with light, and to reduce it with ap
proaching darkness.  A  vine, after vegetation is com
inenced until the fruit is ripe, should never receive any
check. We will presume by this time, the grapes are
stoned, and changing color.  Again examine your outside border; if the heat has much declined, take part
away, adding more fresh in its place, working all well
up together to cause a brisk heat, which should be kept
up till your grapes are nearly colored; by keeping the
roots in a somewhat corresponding temperature with that
to vviech the top is exposed, shanking and shrivelling
have been discarded, and the effect produced noble specimens of grapes without a shanked -berry upon them,
no matter whether a wet or a dry season.  After the
fruit has done swelling, you may remove the dung by
degrees from the roots, and discontinue the humidity of
the house, keeping up a brisk heat with plenty of air, so
as to color the fruit more perfectly, after which time you
may lower the house by degrees, keeping it cool and
dry.
" If, by this time, your wood appears ripe, though the
leaves may not have changed color, you may disbud your
leading shoot, as mentioned for last pruning season,
shortening it so as the joint of two years' growth may
reach fifteen or sixteen feet; likewise, as the fruit is
cleared, you may prune your spurs, cutting them into
two eyes. Give your border a top dressing, and in all




8O          THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
other respects follow what was recommended for the previoulS autumn.9
Chapter 5th.  "As the season approaches to start
your young vines, with their wood the growth of two
years, many would object to letting them carry a heavy
crop of fruit, but content themselves with a light sprinkling, knowing it to be so adverse to the old-received practice of managing young vines, and that prejudice having
taken deep root for years in only a moderate soil, is bad
to eradicate.  However, it has been my intention in
these pages to point out the errors, and improve upon
the practice, of by-gone times, and I have been able to
show by experience that every success will attend grapegrowers, if the foregoing instructions be implicitly followed, and that they will have the pleasure of seeing,
from vines the growth of two years, a noble crop of fruit,
free from shanking or shrivelling, (as has been frequently witnessed at this place, by many gentlemen, gardeners and amateurs,) what is not commonly seen till the
fourth or fifth year after planting.  Presuming your vines
were turned out last autumn,* your border renovated,
&c., the middle of. February will be soon enough to start
your young canes this season, as it would be very injurious to them to carry a heavy crop of fruit, and be started very early. Use caution, begin steadily, and you
will be better able to succeed permanently, and may, in
succeeding years, begin a few weeks earlier each year,
by practising which, you will bring them steadily into a
proper state, by degrees, for early forcing.
* This can never be done to advantage in our northern State.s




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.               81
Proceed as before advised, and lay on, to the depth
of two feet or two feet six inches, and four feet wider
than you think the extremity of the root reaches, of hot
stable manure and collected leaves; the leaves will assist
the manure in giving out a more steady heat, and not so
likely to vary with the weather, and, if thatched with
straw or covered with any other light material, would
retain its heat much longer.  Let the temperature at
night be kept low, say 45~ or 48~; it may range in the
day 15~, 20~, or 25~ higher by sun heat, with air, syringing the canes with tepid water three or four times in the
day, maintaining a very humid atmosphere, by throwing
water on the pipes or flues, and sprinkling the pathways.
I caution to work steady, so as to break the whole of the
eyes upon the young wood, (there will be no doubt of
the spurs,) for, bear in mind, you, at winter pruning, left
no more eyes than you absolutely wanted; therefore, proceed cautiously, —you cannot afford to leave one unbroken; if that were the case, they might break the
next season, but they would leave an unsightly and perceptible gap the whole of this year. If all has gone on
well, in the course of three weeks or a month, your buds
will be in motion, and, as soon as you fairly perceive
that, sling them up to the wires, two feet from the glass,
raising the extremity of the lead within one foot; it will
cause the lower buds to break more boldly: lower the
lead as you see occasion. I generally let the vines remain in that position until all the side shoots are stopped,
out of bloom, and want thinning, especially the first
house, as, by that time, there is no danger to be appre.
hended from the frost.  Up t) the time the grapes are
4*




82          THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
commencing to bloom, keep up a very humid temperature by day, gradually raising the night temperature to
65~ or 68~ at the time of blooming, raising the day temperature in proportion. I always keep the house humid
and close from the time the buds have sprung two or
three inches until they are changing color; (when in
bloom they will require to be kept dryer.)  I never give
air, after the shoots are stopped, up to the fruit changing
color, till the thermometer attains 80~, and this being a
humid and cold climate, in dull weather I have the boilers worked in the fore part of the day, letting them cool
down in the afternoon, so that I use little or no fire in
the night; but, as I said before, give heat with light, and
allow the house to get cool with darkness, the very reverse of the old practice in forcing the vine.
" As your fruit proceeds in swelling, keep the night
temperature to the point as stated for blooming, until the
berries are stoned; you may then raise a few degrees,
but at no period do I exceed 70~ in the night. They
will now swell apace; take off all laterals, keeping the
house very humid; you may allow the temperature to
rise, by sun heat, to 90~, 95~, or 100~, or even higher, so
that you keep a very moist atmosphere.  Examine your
border when the fruit is stoned; if the heat has greatly
declined, add more fermenting material, for upon this, in
an equal degree as on the temperature of the house, depends the success of noble swelled fruit. Your vines, if
any are planted on the back wall, or otherwise inside the
house, must have every attention paid them  as to moisture at the root, summer pruning, and, in other respects,
be treated as the roof vines. When the foliage is fully




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.               83
expanded and the fruit is swelling, they will require
water at the root twice or three times a week, given in
such quantities as reason may suggest, using it in a warm
state along with the drainage of the dunghill.  If all has
gone on well, the berries will soon begin to change color;
be cautious they do not receive a check, to avoid which,
keep up the heat and moisture in the day. As the
grapes approach ripeness, suspend, by degrees, the humidity of the house, keeping up a brisk heat and giving
plenty of air. Examine the heat at the roots at the time
the grapes are changing color; if it has begun to decline, renovate it, keeping up a heat at the roots as high
or higher than the temperature inside the house.  You
will see the benefit from  this, in the grapes swelling to
an uncommon size, with no fear of that pest, shanking
and shrivelling. After your grapes are ripe, lower the
heat of your house'by degrees, keeping it cool and dry,
removing the dung from the roots, as recommended in
previous parts of this work.
" On the coloring of grapes, we often hear it remarked
that, though perfectly ripe, many are not well colored,
black grapes more than white; the loss of color in my
opinion, is by an over-abundant crop. By the old method of forcing the vine, it is the general practice in
June to put out the fires, and to use little or none until
September or October; the change may happen at the
time the fruit is changing color; the house is then
lowered in temperature, and kept cool and dry; by such
practice, black grapes will attain a good color, (if a light
or moderate crop,) subject to shanking, and at the expense of size; and bla,3k Hamburghs no more answer to




84          THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE
their name, as regards the shape of the berry, than a
Black Prince resembles a Black Damascus; you will always find that they are small finger, or oval-shaped,
whereas, grown by the practice I recommend, they are
large, and nearly globular.  It is quite practicable to
grow fine, noble swelled fruit, and colored to perfection,
to be certain of which, you must not allow the vines to
carry too heavy a crop, keeping the temperature as recommended in all their stages of growth through this
work. In giving an opinion on the defect in the coloring
of grapes, it is not given as the sole cause, for, at the
time I am now writing, I have Hamburgh, Mluscat, and
other vines, carrying forty, fifty, and even sixty pounds
weight of noble and good colored fruit, and have never
had a shanked berry on them, though the vines were
only planted three years in April last.
" Pruning. It is my intention, in laying my practice
before the public, to show that single rod and spurpruning, in preference to long rod, will bring a vine the
soonest to bear a permanent crop of fruit. We will presume your vines ready for the pruning knife; the foliage
having shown indications of dropping, you may cut
back your lead to within one foot of the top of the house,
it will give you a little more cane; having disbudded it
some time ago, you will have only left two eyes for
spurs, and the leading one proceed to prune downwards
on the vine, pruning your spurs to two, three, or four
eyes, choosing a bold, prominent eye or bud, (many may
say they look unsightly, but you will be repaid with
noble bunches on that head,) leaving the uppermost eye
for fruit, cutting clean out the others with the exception




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE                8
of the one at the base, which is to be retained, but on
no account to bear fruit, as it is intended to prune back
to it the following year, so as to bring the spur nearer
home. I must not omit to mention, that I have generally
my bud singled out on each spur at the time I recom
mend for disbudding the lead, that is, taking off every
bud above and below, (not injuring the leaf,) with the
exception of the one intended to bear fruit, and the one.above mentioned for wood, the following year. As soon'as the wounds are healed after pruning, cover every cut
you have made with a little mild paint.
6 You will have removed the dung from the roots at
the time mentioned for last season. You will bear in
mind the renovation of the border, and the protection, if
required, from frost."
Chapter 6th.  "Presuming the season is again approaching for the development of your young vines, provided you started them  the latter end of February, last
year, and you wish to have early fruit, you may begin
three weeks or a month earlier, but by no means sooner,
as it will be found the most conducive to their health and
fruitfulness not to break in upon their habits too rashly.
I cannot give, at present, (though I have some experiments in course of trial,) better instructions for the management of this and succeeding years, than by following out the comprehensive culture the whole of the
season as plainly laid down in the foregoing pages, urging the necessity of carrying out'the whole practice as
therein stated, by close attention to which, success will
certainly follow.
" Conclusion.  In this attempt to lay down my prac



86   ~THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
tice in as clear and plain a light as I am able, I hope I
shall be excused the repetitions, almost unavoidable, on
such a subject.  It will be found in plain language and
plain practice, (pirated from  no one,) forn which I have
had great success. I am aware that, in presenting these
hints to the public, I expose myself either to the smile
or the ifrown of the critic; whether he be lenient or severe, I must bear with patience the part allotted me,
and only hope this work may be useful to some of my
readers."
This is the plan as practised by Mr. Roberts; the rest
of the book consists of the author's views upon the different systems of pruning, thinning, and of propagating
the vine. with remarks upon the border as formerly made.
A  description of several kinds of grapes, for early forcing and other purposes, is added, and his own system
praised and recommended as superior to any other.
Remcark8s relating  to.1. Roberts's System.-From
what experience I have had in fruiting the vine, it is my
opinion that the plant is weakened and permanently injured by allowing it to bear fruit thus early. To show
how this can be done, however, is one of Mr. Roberts's
objects in writing his book; there is no difficulty, where
the border has been properly prepared, in fiuiting vines
the second season after planting; but is it advisable so
to do 2\ My own plan is not to fruit them till the third,
and this, and the following years, suffering but a moderate number of bunches to remain on the vine; by this
plan, and by judicious thinning of the berries, the plant
will be gaining strength yearly, and, if capable of producing more fiuit than the limited crop you have left tc




THE CULTURE OF THE- GRAPE.              87
mature, the bunches and berries will swell accordingly,
and the weight of the grapes obtained will be increased
in proportion to the strength of the vine, and the fruit
of the colored kinds will be as black as possible, and
the flavor rich, vinous, and delicious, in striking contrast
to that from a plant which has been taxed to its utmost
in its efforts to ripen an over-abundant crop.
A  plant of the Esperione variety of the grape, obtained.from  Messrs. Hovey &  Co. in the summer of
1.843, grown from  a single eye that same spring, and
planted out when grown three or four inches only, made
a remarkable growth; had it been allowed, and had
there been in the grapery room to have permitted it to
have grown, I do not doubt the entire length of the cane
would have been fifty feet; it was stopped at about thirteen feet early in August, and several times cut back
after this, during this month and September, which
caused the eyes on the upper part of the cane to break;
these produced very large bunches of fruit-buds, which
were cut away in pruning; a second crop of fruit-buids
appeared on new shoots, which were also cut away, and,
when the foliage was destroyed, the last of October, by
frost, a third crop was on the vines, which had been allowed to remain, and the berries of which were of sufficient size to thin.
In this case we have an instance of a vine which, in
seven months from  an eye, would have ripened fruit.
had it been allowed.  There was no artificial heating
of the border, and no uncommon care bestowed upon
the preparation of it. The soil used was one-half loamn
from  the garden, from  the spot where the border was




88          THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
made, which had been well manured for several years,
the other half was coarse manure from  a barn-yard,
where horses and oxen were kept; all the litter, and
pieces of cornstalks, (Indian corn,) were mixed with it,
and it was considered very coarse for the purpose; the
depth of the soil was about eighteen inches, and the
bottom covered with rocks, as the situation was a wet
one.
I have frequently suffered vines of the Black- Hamburgh, White and Grizzly Frontignan, Zinfindal, and
other sorts, to bear fruit the second ye.ar from  the eye,
and have exhibited bunches of the last named variety at
the rooms of the 3MaIssachusetts Horticultural Society,
thus grown, which have weighed between two and three
pounds. Vines from  Europe, after growing one season.
only, have -also been fruited, when it has been particularly
desired to prove the correctness of the plant.  But, in
almost every instance, the vines have been injured by it;
the imported ones the most so.
The border he recommends, should be prepared in a
different manner from  that advised by myself. But it
must be remembered, that, although we have more rain
in this country than they have in England, yet the wet,
cloudy, and foggy weather there is very much greater
than in the United States of America; (the foggy weather in the province of New Brunswick undoubtedly
approaches that of England more nearly). Therefore,
is of questionable utility, the plan of main and cross
drains.  In America, the proportion of bright sunshiny
days is much greater, also, than in England, producinig




THE CULTURE OF THE GRA PE.                          89
severe droughts;` and, as the vine cannot succeed in producing  superior fruit without a proper supply of moisture, it is advisable  to resort to  some  other method of
avoiding too  much  wet.  This can  be done by using  in
the border a due proportion of broken  bricks, oyster or
any other shells, old  mortar and  small stones, fine charcoal, etc.; all these articles have a tendency to keep the
soil open, and  to cause  the  water, when  superabundant,
to pass off; they also are porous and retentive, and very
* In Loudon's Magazine, page 303, for the year 1833, is a horticultural
diary. By this it appears that, at the place of record in England, the weather of that year was 152 fine clear days, 83 cloudy, and 130 when it
rained or snowed some part of the day.
At Salem3 the average of three years is, 219 fine clear days, 66 cloudy,
80 rainy or snowy, showing the difference, in the United States, of 66dclays
more of sunshine, 50 days less rainy or snowy, and 17 days less of cloudy
weather.
Notwithstanding this difference in the weather, the average quantity of railn
which annually falls is greater in the United States than in England; there,
the mean average is 313 inches; in Salem, Mass., United States, 39 inches.
The time of the year in which the grape is usually ripening, under glass
structures, embraces seven months, say from March to November; during
this period, in 1845, there fell, at Salem, 24 61-100 inches: in 1846,
16 97-100 inches; in 1847, 27 49-100 inches. In the month of September,
1847, there fell 6' inches, the greatest quantity in any month; and the
effect upon the grapes was bad, a. large part of them suffering from the rot.
In England, there fell, during  "1845, 23 33-100 inches; in 1846,
27 71-100 inches; in 1847, 16 25-100 inches, the smallest quantity that has
fallen in any year since the present century."-Gardeneers' Chronicle, 1848,
p. 24.
A great difference is here shown in the year 1847.  in seven months of
that year in Salem, there fell 27 49-100 inches, when, in the whole year,
but 16 25-100 fell in England.
The extreme range of the mercury, by a Fahrenheit thermometer, for
33 years, in Salem, Mass., latitude 42~ 34', north, longituce 70~ 54', wes%
was, in summer, 101~; in winter, 13~ below zero.  In Philadelphia, latitud3 39~ 51', longitude 75~ 11', in summer, 103~; in winter, 7~ below zero.




90          THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
serviceable in yielding to the vine, in a season of drought,
the desired moisture. These articles should be incorporated with the soil of the border; not (as advised by this
gentleman,) laid in a mass of one foot depth at the botL
tom. The material in the compost of the soil for the
border is unexceptionable, and the manner of preparing
it, with the exception of carcasses of animals, which
should be obtained at the time of preparing the border;
or, whole bones substituted for them. Slaughter-house
manure may be used instead of both of these articles,
when it can be had of a suitable quality, that is, when it
consists mainly of the  offal of the  slaughter-house,
sheep's heads, hoofs, &c., with a good proportion of
bones.
The system of growing the plants from  single eyes,
and the manner of planting them  in the border, is the
common method as practised by gardeners generally, at
the present time.
Soon after planting the vines commences the operation
of heating the border by manure piled over the roots.
This is relied upon by Mr. Roberts as the great good.
The necessity for this artificial heat does not exist in the
summer months in the United States, nor in the southern
states at any season. A  great objection to it is the excessive stimulus to the plant from such a quantity of
manure, which must be kept up every year, (after the
vine has become accustomed to it,) or the plant will languish and cease to yield its fruit. In England, it unquestionably has, thus far, worked well; but, by this plan of
heating the border, the roots are spreading with rapidity,
and it seems inevitable that the time must cole, when



THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.               91
the roots have so extended themselves, that they will
suffer for the want of further protection.
Where grapes are grown under glass on an extensive
scale, it would be difficult to obtain fresh stable manure
in sufficient quantities (in most parts of our country it
would be impossible,) to make it practicable, and the
expense of so doing would be more than the value of the
crop would warrant.  In the vicinity of large cities, and
occasionally in other localities, this manure may be obtained cheaply, and in sufficient quantities for the purpose; where this is the case, the objection to it, on the
score of expense, is obviated.
A  grapery one hundred feet long would require a
border one hundred and ten feet in length and twentyfiur feet wide. As, by Mr. Rloberts's plan, the border is
to be covered with this heating manure and leaves four
feet beyond where the roots of the vine extend, and two
and a half feet deep, in a few years, or as soon as the
vines have become established, it follows, that the enormous quantity of 65162 cords of manure would be required, to cover in this manner, the border where the
roots are now presumed to have extended themselves;
thus, one hundred and twenty feet long, twenty-eight feet
wide, and two and a half feet deep.
In our cold winter, I found it necessary to renew the
heat by adding one fourth part of the new manure, and
working it in with the old, every three or four weeks.
On a border to a house winter-forced, that is, where forcing commences in December, this quantity of manure
would be doubled by the renewals. It is true that you
would have about half the original bulk of the mnanure




92          MHE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
in the summer for other uses, but much of the strength
of it will have escaped by evaporation, or have been
washed into the earth; and where labor is so hiogh as it
is with us, the cost of working and making this heat,
and relnovino it after the fruit has ripened, will be very
nearly equal to its value.
The cost of this manure at-Salem, Mass., is $4.50, the
cord; the expense of carting, from 50 cents to $1.00 per
cord, according to the distance it has to be carried; making the whole cost of the quantity required as above, in
round numbers, $700.
On the rafters of a house of this length of border,
which is to be winter-forced, eight hundred pounds of
grapes would be a VERY LARGE AVERAGE
CROP. On the back wall of the house, but 800 pounds.
which would not be affected by this heat  267
on the border, one third of this quantity
would be as much as could be relied upon, 1067 pounds,
and this is more than is usually produced
Ln most graperies; but my experience warrants me in
placing it at about this amount.
To judge of the practicability of the plan, a short caeulation wil, be necessary:




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.                        93
Cost of manure for the border,..      $700 00
Interest* on the forcing-house, at a cost of
$15  the  running  foot, 100  feet, cost
$1500, at six per cent.,..        90 00
Annual breakage of glass and other wear,
furnaces, &c., 4,....             60 00
Cost of fuel,.....                0 00
Labor on  fires, watering, manuring, trimring, and thinning grapes,..          200 00
Whole cost of the crop of grapes,..   $1120 00
The value of the crop of grapes, 1067 pounds, would
not net the producer more than  the cost, and the probability is, that there would be a loss to him.  A  very few
pounds of grapes are sold in Boston, in April, at $2 the
pound, and in May, at $1.50 to $2; but the main part of
the crop would not sell at over $1 to $1.25.  The cost of
sending the fruit to market, and the expense of selling,
is from  twenty-five to  thirty per cent.  In England, the
prices are so  much  higher that this process can  be resorted to with reason.t
* The cost of a winter forcing-house is much greater, by necessity, in a
very cold climate than that of a house which only requires a slight artificial
heat in spring. The extra heating apparatus alone is a great additional
cost.
t To show the relative prices of grapes and forced fruits in the two
countries, I here add a memorandum, from Loudon's Magazine, of prices at
Covent Garden Market, vol. for 1834, April, page 191: hothouse grapes,
per pound, from ~1 10s. to ~1 15s. Grapes are spoken of as being re.
markably early, 28th of March.
Vol. for 1835, April, page 210, grapes are quoted at from ~1 to ~1 4s,




94              THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE
I  have  found  the plan  of covering  the border with
litter (as directed in my remarks on  forcing,) to answer
every purpose, and at a much less expense.
I have a small stove or winter-forcing house, where the
border is covered with movable glass, which is taken oft
as soon  as the grapes are ripe, or the  weather becomes
warm  in spring; the border, under this, is covered with
six or eight inches of coarse litter and  leaves in autumn,
and, on the outside, with the same materials, so as, in all,
to  cover about twenty  feet.  This  answers the  purpose)
and forced cherries at ~1 10s. per pound, and forced strawberries, per
ounce, 6d. to Is. 3d.
Vol. for 1836, March, page 219, forced strawberries are quoted at from
2s. 6d. to 3s. 6d. per ounce, and hothouse grapes at ~1 10s. per pound.
The same year, in April, page 272, strawberries are quoted at from Is. to
2s. per ounce, and grapes at from 10s. to ~1 per pound.
In May, page 328, strawberries were the same price, and grapes at from
6s. to 12s. per pound; nectarines and peaches at from ~2 2s. to ~3 3s. per
dozen; cherries, per pound, from ~1 to ~1 10s.
In June, page 383, grapes were quoted at from 4s. to 8s. per pound;
peaches and nectarines at from 15s. to ~1 4s. per doz.; and cherries at from
4s. to 8s. per pound.
In August, page 498, hothouse grapes are quoted as at 3s. to 5s. per
pound. The. highest price for hothouse grapes is in March, and by this
standard, and in our currency, this is $8.41 per pound, and the value is
constantly lessening till September.  In August, they are at from 72 cents
to $1.21 per pound.
At Boston, in March, they sell at $2 the pound, and this price is gra,
dually falling until August and September, when they can be bought at
33 cents to 62 cents per pound. Forced peaches, nectarines, cherries, and
strawberries, are at the same relative prices as grapes; and, indeed, neither
of these last-named fruits can be grown for market in this country, under
glass, to yield the cost of production, at the prices customarily paid for them.
The Gardeners' Chronicle for this year, 1848, quotes them at lower prices,
$3 per pound being the highest mentioned. In Boston, in July, this year,
they have been sold'y the quantity as low as 50 cents, which is less than
the cost




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.               95
very well, but in no way better than the plan alluded to
above.
On this border and under this glass covering I tried
this system of hot manure in 1843. The only advantage
I derived from  it was the ripening of the fruit a few
days earlier than usual.  But the steam from the manure,
when fieshly made up, forced itself through the front of
the house, by the sides of the sashes, &c., and destroyed
the foliage of the vines, where it came immediately in
contact with them.  It is true that this would not have
happened had the border not been covered. But the
cost was more than the value of the crop, and the
system  has not been tried since for the purpose of
forcing.
In the summer of 1843, I built a grapery. The border
was made according to the plan given by me in the first
part of this work. It was not begun till August, and
the vines were planted the last of that month, and a few
of them  in September. They were of different ages,
some only two and three months from the eye, and others
one and two years old; they all came into fruit at the
same time, and I never have been able to notice any difference in their growth, or in their produce, since the
first year.  As these vines were planted at so late a period, I was fearful that they might not become sufficiently
established in their new situation to survive the winter.
To induce a rapid and promote a late growth, this method of heat upon the border was resorted to, and with
the desired ef'het generally.  Owing to the situation of
the grapery,.which is on a gentle slope, a few of the
vines at the bottom of this were killed by the too power




96           THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
ful juices of the manure, which, after a heavy rain,
soaked down to them.  A  second and third set were
planted and killed also, and it was only by removing the
manure that I was able to make vines grow there.
The plan has been abandoned by me as unsuitable for,
and unnecessary in, this country.  In some situations,
where the ground is very cold and wet, and it is particularly desired to grow grapes without regard to the expense, then it may be found advantageous.
The disbudding of the cane is not advisable; in En-.
gland, it may be serviceable on account of admitting
light into the grapery; by Mr. Roberts's plan, a vine is
never to have but twenty-one or twenty-three spurs. I
prefer to have forty spurs, and, if the fruit is cut away
from half of them, so much the better, for they can then
be fruited alternately.
It will be noticed, that it is recommended never to give
air in the middle stages of forcing until the thermometer
attains eighty degrees; this is not my practice.  In our
climate, I would much prefer to give air gradually by
opening the lights, or ventilators, a little, as soon as the
mercury begins to rise from the influence of the sun's
rays, and give more air as the day advances, having the
greatest heat from  10 o'clock, A.M., to 2 o'clock, P.M.;
the same rule to regulate the closing of the windows in
the after part of the day.
The general remarks, as regards the heat from artificial
means and the temperature of the house by night and
day, are perfectly correct, and the' advice given as to
forcing, and the care requisite to prevent a check, are
well worthy careful attention  It will be necessary to




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.              97
make due allowance for difference of climate, if it is intended to follow out his plan entirely. For instance, he
states that it has formerly been the practice tO put out
the fires in June in the girapery, even if the grapes were
not ripe, and attributes to this cause some of the evils to
which this fruit is subject under glass, and disapproves
of this management, and goes on to say that the fires
must be kept up until the fruit is ripe. It would be absurd, in this climate, to follow, literally, this advice;
sometimes in May, and frequently in June, we have very
warm weather, the mercury rising to 80,~ and sometimes
to 90~ in the open air; at these times, the heat of the
grapery cannot be kept under 100~ while the sun is
shining upon the house, and any heat in the flue, or
boiler and pipes, would increase the difficulty. The fact
is, such advice will not do; you must regulate the heat
by the thermometer, and, in warm weather, at this season of the year, make, or omit to make, the fires, as the
temperature of the external air may be.
Mr. Roberts says, "' that shanking and shrivelling have
been discarded by his plan of keeping the roots of the
vine in a somewhat corresponding temperature with that
to which the top is exposed."  It has occurred to me,
that the great excitement given to the roots of the vine,
by the manure heaped upon them, and consequent vigor
of the vine, may have been the cause of the fruit not
bhanking or shrivelling.
Mr. Roberts's idea may be the correct one, and yet
shanking and shrivelling be avoided without using this
method. If it. is true, as Mr. R. states, that this difficulty is caused by too low a temperature at the roots of
0>




98          THE CULTURE OF TIE GRAPE,
the vine, as compared with that in which the,ops are
situated, may not this be avoided by having a lower temperature in the grapery, particularly in the night?  I
have, for many years, thought that this evil was often
caused by too great heat, followed by too low a temperature. I can, at any time, cause these troubleh in the
forcing-house to appear, but am not always able to avoid
them   A grapery without artificial heat is more subject
to shanking than the forcing-house, notwithstanding the
temperature of the earth, at the season of the year when
such a house is liable to the attacks of this disease, is
much higher, and the roots of the vine are enjoying a
temperature relatively to the tops almost correspondent
with vines in open culture.
I have observed that, in a house where there was no
means of warming it by fires, the crop of fruit has suffered most when, after a continuance of hot, bright, and
dry weather, in August, or early in September, we have
had a succession of cold, dark, and rainy days. In this
case, the cause is, apparently, too low a temperature at
the top of the plant, causing stagnation of the sap. A
brisk heat from a flue, or any other artificial means that
will give a free circulation to the air throughout the
house, and raise it to a temperature near which it has
seen during the hot weather, will prevent its spread.
The cold rain will have reduced the temperature at the
roots of the vine, but in a much less degree than that to
which the tops have been exposed, so that now the tops
are relatively to the roots in a proportionately cooler atmosphere than during the hot weather. It does not ap



THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.                       99
pear to me, that want of warmth at the root of the vine
is the cause of the difficulty.
These  varieties of the foreign  grapes which, in  the
grapery, are now so much affected by this change in the
weather, when in the open air, and growing in the same
soil, do not suffer in the least from  this shanking.  It
therefore appears evident, that the cause of the difficulty
must be looked for in the temperature and ventilation of
the grapery.  And these causes are, in my  opinion, too
great and sudden changes in the temperature, and, per
haps, too great heat at night relatively to the day.
A   low  temperature at night is not injurious to the
vine,@  on the contrary, it is probably beneficial.  But the
vine under glass, when the sun is shiling, is subject to
great heat, which rapidly accumulates, and, on the obscuration of the  sun's rays, as rapidly  decreases.  Here is
the cause of the trouble: vines in  the open  air do not
suffer from  this pent up  accumulation of heat, and  are
not excessively excited thereby, and, when cool, cloudy
weather follows  a  warm, bright season, they  are not
checked in the flow of the sap, as the vine is, under
* In 1836, when visiting the vineyards near the Rhine, and on the border of the Lakes of Neufchatel and Geneva, I found the weather very cool,
as compared with the temperature of that season of the year in lMassachusetts, the thermometer, during August and September, varying from
46~, the lowest point at night, to 60~, and by day, the highest point being
16~ in the shade. Notwithstanding the low point at which the mercury
fell during the night, the grapes ripened finely. The vines here, though
subject to an intense heat when the sun shone upon the vineyards upon
the side of the hills, were, nevertheless, in an atmosphere which did not
vary more t.man 10~ or 15~ in the daytime, excepting when the sun was
shining upon them, and, being in the open air, there was no confined heat
thlere.




100          THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
glass, in a cold grapery, which is now suffering from a
change in the temperature of 400 in the daytime, and
10~ or 15~ in the night.
The Catawba grape, a native variety, is so subject to
shanking under glass, that, were it desirable to cultivate
it there, it would not be practicable.
If the grapery, though not intended to be forced, is
provided with a furnace and flue, or the Polmaise system
of heating is introduced into the house, to be used when
occasion may require it, (and there is nothing to be apprehended from this evil excepting when the grapes are
changing color and taking their last swell,) there will be
no danger of any serious loss of fruit, provided every
other care is given to the house and crop as directed.
But where the house is not provided with the means of
artificial heat, promoting a free circulation of air in.
bright days, by throwing open freely the doors and windows, and keeping as low  a temperature as possible in
warm  weather, is the safest mode of procedure.  The
desire to ripen the fruit early, causes the house to be
kept warmer than prudence dictates.  In our climate,
we are not always subject to this pest; when the month
of September is dry and clear, we escape altogether.
Every conceivable reason has been assigned as the
cause of shanking and shrivelling of grapes, by different
gardeners, and as frequently a certain remedy has been
recommended; still, the evil exists. The term shanzking
is used when the stem of the bunch is affected, and shrivelling when only the footstalk of the berries is attacked.
As this is the worst enemy the cultivator of this fruit
has to con!tend with, I shall, in their own words, give the




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.             101
opinions of some practical people, extracted pri cipally
from London's Magazine:
Vol. 10, page 19, a writer thinks it caused by too great
heat at night.
Page 267, an experienced grape-grower thinks it caused
by damp, and recommends a good fire in the daytime,
and to give abundance of air, to expel it, by which means
the moisture evaporated is carried off.
Page 137.  Ir. J. D. Parkes, F. II. S., Nurseryman,'Dartfoi'd.  "A variety of causes have been assigned for
that disease in forced grapes which produces a shrivelled
appearance in the footstalks of the bunches, more especially in the Frontignans and Muscats. Some consider
that it proceeds from the roots being: too deep in the
ground; others think that it is occasioned "by the temperature of the earth in which the root grows (when vines
are planted outside the house) being so much lower than
that of the atmosphere within; and some attribute the
disease to a want of air.
"Having observed that early-forced grapes are, in general, free from this disease, and that it never occurs to
grapes grown in the open air, and having found, in a
house under my care, that some bunches immediately
over a steam-pipe were free from it, I have come to the
conclusion that the cause is stagnation of cold moist air:
and the remedy, the application of artificial heat, to such
an extent (even in summer, when the weather is cloudy,)
as to admit, every warm  day, of opening the windows
sufficiently to occasion a free circulation of air. A gardener, to whom I stated this as my opinion of the sub.




102         THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
ject, has practised my plan, every year since, with the
most complete success."
Vol. 11, p. 493, the same author remarks: " In the
paper sent you and printed in vol. 10, page 137, you
omitted to insert what I think the most important matter. In the paper alluded to, I considered it was from
the footstalk of the berry not being grown sufficiently
firm and hard, which I believe is the only cause. If the
grape is grown in a humid atmosphere, it elongates the
footstalk, and causes it to be of a slender, thin, delicate
texture, and, in case of a sudden change, even for a short
time, the footstalk is easily affected. When this injury
takes place, as I believe, from the delicacy of the footstalk, the sap ceases to circulate in the manner required.
I think this disease may be remedied by keeping the
early-forced grapes with less humidity in the house than
some use when the crop is young, which helps to elongate the footstalk. In later grapes, if there were more
air admitted, or artificial heat kept up in cold damp
weather, either would remedy the disease; but, as I stated in my former paper, give air and artificial heat at
the same time. As I am  making this second attempt to
impress on the mind of the reader that the cause is really in the footstalk, I can and will advance a"few things
to make it more evident.
" I was asked this season, by a gardener, what I would
say to a vinery being left a little open all night at top;
my reply was, I had not tried it, but I would not hesitate in saying it was more likely to do good than harm,
He said that there were the finest grapes in a house so
treated that he had seen all the season. I was asking a




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.             103
gardener, about Christmas, how his grapes had done this
year; his reply was, Very well; I adopted your plan,
(except one light, which I could not move,) giving plenty
of air. The grapes under the light, which I could not
move, were not so good as the others. In a house I had
this disease take the crop, with the exception of a vine
at the end, where the steam-pipe entered, producing a
great and drying heat; and there was a door, with a
ventilator over it, which all aided to keep off the disease.
This vine alone was always free from it: this speaks for
itself. Perhaps many may think I am too sanguine on
this subject; but should I be right in my opinion, and in the
means of producing a remedy, I shall be vain enough to
think I have done some real good.  Should any person
really find the correctness of it, I hope they will do me
the favor to acknowledge it in your magazine, which
will be attended with some good; and should it be fairly
proved my idea is wrong, I invite the same insertion
from those who may have proved it to be so; but let
them give it more than one trial, and fair oles, for I
have no desire to mislead."
Vol. 11, page 603. " Having been troubled with the
shrinking or shrivelling of grapes, more or less, for several years, I am determined to add my testimony to that
of Mr. Parkes, that some good may be effected by leaving air in the house all night, &c. &c."  This writer
agrees with Mlr. Parkes in the plan of giving air as the
remedy, but does not admit tl at the length of the footstalk can be the cause.
Vol. 12, page 244.  Mr. Jasper Wallace thinks that
t' the principal cause of the shrinking of grapes is owing




104         THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
to the ROOTS BEING OVERHEATED and not having sufficient
moisture, when planted in the inside border."
Vol. 13, page 261. Mr. J. Robertson, Nurseryman,
says: "There has been much discussion in your magazine on the cause of, and remedy for, the frequent shrivellinlg of grapes, about the period of ripening, in stoves
and vineries. Being unluckily privileged, by my own
ill success, to offer an opinion, I must attribute it, in my
case, (for I think it may proceed from various causes,) to
their being enveloped, at that season, in the warm, humid atmosphere generally maintained in stoves.
"In my former communication on the shrivelling. of
grapes, (vol. 11, page 603,) I fancied I had hit on a plan
that, in some degree, prevented the footstalks of the berries from  turning black, but now, after another year's
practice, chance, as it often does, has thrown in my way
something wliich I never could have discovered without
it.  I Iim convinced, that too moist an atmosphere is not
the cause of the shrivelling of grapes, but that it arises
fiom  the inability of the vine to provide a sufficient
quantity of nourishment for the berries.  The inability
of the vine to provide for its fruit may arise from different causes, such as overcropping, the foliage being too
crowded, &c.'
Vol. 16, page 598.  By W. H., (Mosely Hall.)  "Several articles have appeared, at different times, in the
Gardeners' Mfagazine, on the shrivelling of grapes.  I
have tried every one of them, as they made their appearance, but without the least success.  In Dr. Lindley's
Theory of Horticulture, article Bottom  Heat, it is there
stated that the cause is. that. the roots b)ein.' in a colder




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.              105
medium than the branches, the supply of sap is consumed quicker than the roots can furnish it, and this brings
on the disease.  Dr. Lindley, every one must allow, is
very high authority; still I doubt this being the cause of
the blacking of the footstalks, which is the disease that I
particularly wish to refer to.  ] have the management of
three houses in which grapes are grown.  One, I begin
forcing the first of January, one, the first of February,
and one, the first of March.  The first house ripens its
fruit in May, the second in June, and the third in July.
In the first and second, there shall be no shrivelled berries, in the third, if the weather is cloudy, there shall be
a great many. The covering is taken off the borders
about the beginning of April, and, if the coldness of the
borders was the cause, I should suppose that those which
ripened in May and June would be more subject to the
disease than the July one, for the earth undoubtedly
gets warmer as the summer advances.  I have been a
grape-grower for more than twenty years, and, during
that time, the disease has particularly engaged my attention, as I have always been more or less subject to it,
and I am fully convinced that it is caused by the borders
being made too rich and stimulating, and by a deficiency
of light.  My borders are all prepared in the same way,
and of the richest materials, and the one that I commence forcing in March produces foliage of the most
luxuriant description; those large leaves require more
light to elaborate the sap than smaller ones, and, if light
is deficient, the sap is not properl  prepared for the
healthy nourishment of the fruit, and this brings on the
disease.  I have known vineries where borders have




106         THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
been made inside of the house, and vines planted against
the back wall, and borders made outside, and vines
trained up the rafters. The grapes upon the back wall
have, every one of them  shrivelled until the vines upon
the rafters had been shortened so as to admit the light
upon the back wall, and then the grapes have done well,
plainly proving that want of light was the cause, and not
the want of heat in the border. In early forcing, I have
covered one half of the border with hot dung and leaves,
two feet thick, the other half, six inches, and I never
could discover the least difference in the growth of the
vines inside, or in the fruit. The larger the leaves are
the more light they require to assimilate and decompose
the sap; and this, in my opinion, is the reason why early
forced vines do not shrivel, their leaves scarcely ever
being more than half the size of those begun in March,
and the light in May and June is commonly greater than
that of July, which is, in general, a dull and showery
month. After trying everything that I had seen recommended as a remedy, and feeling fully convinced, in my
own mind, that want of light was one of the causes, I
thought I would try what effect proportioning the heat
to the light would do. This I have practised for several
years, and with a success beyond my expectation.
In dull weather, I keep the house cool, and, when the
grapes begin to color, if the weather is warm, I leave the
top and front lights a little open, so as to keep up a re
gular circulation of air in the house night and day; and,
if the weather is cold and wet, I shut the front lights,
and a little fire is made in the front flue so as to cause
the air to circulare, but nothing like forcing is attempted.




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.              107
By this simple mode of management, I have so far conquered the disease, that, instead of losing half the bunches,
I now only lose a few berries here and there in some
of the bunches, and a few at the points of some of them,
but not any of any consequence.  I never expect to get
entirely rid of it, as the great fault lies in the formation of the border. We consider the vine to be a gross
feeder, and therefore think that it is impossible to make
the border too rich, but this is certainly a great error."
Vol. 17, page 45.  By Robert Wilson, Gardener.
"There has been so much discussion on the shrivelling
of grapes, that I make bold to give my humble opinion
also, more especially as I consider our friend W. H. (vol.
for 1840, page 598,) not altogether correct in thinking
that the shrivelling proceeds from  the border heing too
rich and stimulating.  Crowded foliage will be injurious,
as far as preventing free access to light and air.  Nor do
I acquiesce with our learned friend Dr. Lindley, in supposing that it proceeds from the roots being too cold for
the internal atmosphere.  I had vines under my care at
Edgerston, in Roxburgshire, in the spring of 183i, when
the thermometer stood at 130 out of doors, and the internal atmosphere was 72~. The vines were planted on the
outside of the house, with their stems wrapped up with
moss, and the border mulched.  They were planted in a
compost of strong hazelly loam, formed from the sward
of a pasture thoroughly decomposed, and one fourth vegetable mould of decayed tree leaves, one sixth of good
rotten horse and butcher's grub dung, and a little sheep
dung, with a moderate quantity of powdered bones and
lime rubbish   The borders were frequently watered witn




108          THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
liquid manure water from  the drainings of a dunghill,
and we never had a shrivelled grape during the three
years I was there; and these grapes have never failed
taking the first prize for the best flavored bunch at the
Jedburgh Horticultural Society, for many years past;
and there are vineries in this neighborhood that have
borders not above three feet deep, upon a gravelly bottom, which have not been renewed this fifty years, that
have had abundance of shrivelled grapes in them every
year lately. I think the foregoing remarks prove that it
is neither the coldness nor the richness of the border that
is the occasion of the shrivelling.  Now, in my opinion,
damp, stagnant air is very much if not altogether, the
cause of the shrivelling of grapes after they commence
their second swelling. If there should not be a free circulation of air in the house, they will shrivel, and, if the
weather be wet or cloudy, they will not do with high
forcing. I am  certain, from  experience, that W. H. is
perfectly correct as to the air, and keeping a dry atmosphere."9
Vol. 17, page 47. Another writer says, " Njever thin
out the berries until the seed is formed, and let the berries
touch and press each other close when ripe;" this, he
says, will prevent all shanking.
Vol. 17, pages 47 and 48, J. W. B. says, want of food
is the sole cause, and' this deficiency of nutriment
might arise from  various causes, but, undoubtedly, the
principal one is a bad border; under which head, I inelude not only poor hungry soils, that are incapable of
supporting a plant in vigor, but those deep and narrow
pits of rich earth in which vines are generally planted.




TIE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.               109
and even borders of proper dimensions, if the subsoil is
wet and the drainage imperfect.  Depend upon it, the
most essential condition in vine culture is a border so
constructed as to insure a ready passage of superabundant moisture in the wettest seasons. The young fibrous
roots of vines are exceedingly tender, and soon rot when
soddened in cold wet soil; consequently, the plant, being thus deprived of its mouths, may starve in the midst
of plenty. According to the extent of the injury to the
roots, so will the fruit suffer.  On the same principle,
(deficient nutrition,) over-cropping will produce the same
result, even when the roots are in a healthy state."
Any quantity of extracts might be added to these, but
the above are sufficient to show the extent of the disease,
and the principal reasons assigned for its cause by practical men. The Frontignans and Muscats are more subject to the evil than any other varieties, and the cause in
these cases undoubtedly often may be, injury to the roots
from too much moisture: for these vines will not succeed in any situation but where the roots can be kept
dry, at the approach of the period for the maturation of
the fruit.  Nor will they succeed thus situated, unless
they have a free circulation of hot air around their tops;
and, when the fruit is ripe, this circulation of air must
be continued, and attention given to keeping it as dry as
possible, otherwise the fruit will soon decay.
In conclusion, it may be, in my opinion, thus summed
up, that shanking or shrivelling is a disease peculiar to
the grale in its culture under glass structures, caused by
a deficiency of nourishment, which deficiency is occasioned principally b"h  a defective atmosphere in the house,




110         THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
causing stagnation in the flow of the sap; and this difficulty may be increased, and the spread of the evil promoted, by various causes,-such as a poor border, general
weakness of the vines, overcropping, and chiefly by not
paying due care to the ventilation of the house.  Where
the person in charge of the grapery has command of artificial heat, by following, to the letter, all the directions
given by me for the culture of this fruit, and constantly
causing the temperature of the grapery to be as directed,
he will have little to apprehend from this trouble.
If it is intended to plant vines, to be trained on the
back wall, the soil, on the inside of the house, must be
prepared, as directed for the border on the outside.
If figs are to be planted, the same border is recoimmended.
Peaches do not require a rich border, and, for them,
the natural soil will be suitable.
To improve a poorly made, or exhausted border, in a
house already built, where the vines do not succeed well,
the following process is recommended as best adapted to
cure the original defect:In the spring, have the border covered with two or
three inches of lime rubbish, or oyster shells; let this be
forked into, and well mixed with, the soil; after this,
have the whole border covered, two feet deep, with fresh
stable manure,-the newer the better; the object being
to cause a strong heat above the roots of the vine, thus
drawing them to the surface. This should remain on the
border two months, when it may beremoved.  It is probable, the young roots will have penetrated the border,




THE  CULTURE  OF THE GRAPE.                      111
and be growing in the under part of the manure; if so,
these must not be injured, for, if they should, the benefit
expected from  the operation  would be lost; when  it is
found that this is the case, that part of the manure must
remain  on.  After  removing  the  manure, the  border
should have a top dressing of three or four inches of
well decomposed cow or hog-pen manure.
PLANTING  THE VINES.
In planting, which is the next operation, open a hole
sufficiently wide to admit the roots being spread out to
their entire length; care must be taken to spread out all
the roots separately, without injury to the small ones,
and do not let them overlay or interfere with each other;
make the soil fine, and cover them  with  an inch  or two
of it; with a rose watering-pot, settle the soil and roots,
by  giving them  a thorough  watering;  finish  covering,
and do not water them  again.*   They should be planted
* I recommend the planting of vines for the crop of fruit on the back
wall as being the most likely to give satisfaction; for, although they do
not give as large crops as the rafter vines, yet they yield better fruit than
the peach; the fig does well thus situated. When the house is strongly
and early forced, peaches and cherries do not succeed; the fruit of the
latter, if it was sure, would be desirable, but it requires more air in setting
than is good for the grapes.
" Vines do better with their roots inside the house than' outside, if well
managed, and nothing placed on the soil in which they grow. —Gardeners
Chronicle, p. 680, Oct. 1846.
I am willing to admit, that vines do as well, thus planted, when as it is
said. they are " well managed," but they require more care in watering,
etc. I am not willing to allow that they do better, and never would advise
the ras.er vines to be thus placed, unless they can roam at pleasure in the




112            THE CULTURE OF THE  GRAPE.
about three inches under the surface, and three to four
feet apart; if the  border is only twelve feet wide, five
feet is near enough, or, if very large bunches and grapes
are  desired, without regard  to  the  quantity  produced,
they  shoulld never be nearer together than four feet, be
the border narrow  or wide.  If the house has been built
on posts, as directed, let the head of the vine, after planting, be three inches from  the front, on  the inside,-the
roots being on the outside.  If the vines are planted ithe fall, they  should  be cut' back to three  eyes imme
diately; but, if planted  in the spring, they  must be al
lowed to grow  until the shoots are one inch long, when
rub off all but the three lower shoots.*
VINES FOR PLANTING.
The vines for planting should be in pots, and one or
two  yeais  old; before planting, they  should  be  kept
quite dry a few days, as the roots are more easily separated.
If the plants are growing, leave off watering them
until they begin to droop, when you can plant them out;
the risk of injuring them  will be lessened, and the free
open border; when the vines are planted on the inside, the roots will
grow with rapidity, and push as straight as possible for the border outside
of the house, thus proving that they prefer to be under the influence of the
full effects of the sun, air, and rain upon the soil.
Do not shake the vine after planting, as sometimes advised; it can do no
good, and will probably break some of the rootlets.
I If the border is in a suitable condition, the vines do equally well when
planted at any time after the fall of the leaf. If they are in pots, I klno^;
af po reason why they may not be planted at any season of tho year.




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.               115
watering, after the roots are spread out, will immediately
settle them in their position, and they will grow rapidly.
If grown on the place, or to be obtained near, young
plants, in pots, just rooted, can be used. Turn them
out with the ball of earth entire, and plant, without disturbing the roots, on the inside, near the front of the
house.*  I have planted such vines, and they have come
into bearing as soon as older ones; they are to be preferred to old vines, as the latter are very much injured in
transplanting, if they have been growing in the open
border; if in pots, the roots are so matted together, that,
in separating them, many will be broken off.
GRAFTING THE VINE,
T. A. Knight, Esq., in a paper read to the Horticultural Society, in September, 1821, says, " I selected three
cuttings of the Black Hainburgh grape, each having at
its base one joint of two years' wood; these were inserted in, or rather fitted to, branches of nearly the same
size, but of greater age, and all succeeded most perfectly. The clay which surrounded the base of the grafts
was kept constantly moist, and the moisture thus supplied
to the grafts operated very beneficially, at least, if it was
not essential to the success of the operation."
Mr. J. D. Parks says, "' The best time for grafting is
when the stock is far advanced in growth as the setting
of the fruit. The stock should then be cut down, the
* See Growth of Vine, remarks relative to Mr. Roberts's system.




114            THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
scion having been  kept in a dormant state.-Ioudon,'s
fcgasyzzine, page 494, vol. 12th.
In grafting vines, I have cut them  off at the surface
of the ground, and with a knife have split the stump in
the middle and inserted the grafts, cut in a wedge shape;
they have always grown. (See grafting, as practised by
Mr. Cleveland and Dr. Sidney Weller.)
TREATMENT OF THE VINES.
First Year.
The first year, they should not be forced, but allowed
to push naturally as the season advances.
In the vicinity of Boston, they will push their buds
early in April; let the shoots from the three eyes grow
until they are two or three feet long;* train up the leading one to the roof, and stop the other two, by pinching
off the end of each; the leading cane must be stopped,
when it reaches the top of the rafters; the vine will be
strengthened, by  allowing  it to  make a free growth;
after September, stop all shoots as they push, that the
vine may the better ripen the wood.t
Early in the spring throw open the house and give air
* Perhaps it is best to allow all the lateral shoots to grow, the first three
months of the first season after planting, to guard against accident to the
leading shoots, as any check to the growth of the top is felt, in a corresponding degree, by the roots. For instance, if only one shoot is being
trained up, and this should be broken out, and the vine should make a
second, it would be but a weak one, and a loss of one year in the fruiting
would be the result.
t Vines will grow as rapidly in a moist temperature of 80~ or 90~ as
under any circumstances.




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.                     115
B                                  D
A                             ~C
A, is the vine after it has been cut back at planting.
B, shows it at the end of the first year.
C, shows it cut back at the fall pruning of the same year.
D, the end of the second year.
E, at the end of the second year. cut back for fruiting.
F, at tile end of the third summer.
G, the end of the third summer, cut back.
If the spurs become too long in a few years, you must allow one of the
)ots, that axe constantly pushing on the back wood of them  in the
spring, to grow, and, at the fall pruning, cut back to it.




116          THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
freely, continuing to do so during the season, when the
mercury is above freezing; it is best to shut up the
house at night, leaving one or two lights a little open,
to let the moisture escape.  It will not be necessary
to syringe the vines, provided they have ample moisture
at the roots. If the weather is dry, and the vines are
not growing well, give them two gallons of water each
at night, and repeat this two or three times a week while
the drought continues.  If your border is poor, liquid
manure should be given occasionally.
After the leaves have fallen, which will be in October,
or early in November, cut back the two spurs to one eye,
or bud, each, and the long cane to two eyes. If any insect has been troublesome, to destroy them, or their eggs,
wash the vines carefully with soap suds, moderately
strong.  The first of December, protect the vines for the
winter, by a covering of straw, or Russia mats:; the
border must also be covered with seaweed, or coarse litter, to protect the roots from  frost. This completes the
management for the first year.
Second Year.
The second year, as the spring advances, and the power of the sun increases, open the windows and doors of
the house to let the heat escape, and to prevent the
vines bursting their buds, shutting up again before night;
do not hasten the pushing of the vines, but rather keep
the house cool until the tenth of April, when it will be
best to uncover them; promote a free circulation of air
in bright weather; give some ventilation on cloudy days:




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.                         117
shut up the house  before the sun  sets.  About the middle or last of May, the  four eyes will have grown, each,
one or two feet; train  up  the  strongest of the  two on
last year's wood, and  shorten  back  the other three, by
pinching off  the ends of the shoots; during the season,
give plenty of air in fine weather, and shut up the house
at night.  The best way of training  the vines is by iron
rnods, parallel with  the rafters, having three of them; a
(centre one, to which should be tied the cane, and one on'pach side of this, about eight inches distant, to tie the'bearing shoot to; in  a cold  house, they should  be ten
inches  from  the glass, and, in  a forcing  one, fourteen
inches.*
As the leading cane grows, tie it carefully to the rod,
* Some persons prefer the rods to run horizontally the whole length of
the house, which is the preferable mode when the vines are planted at
three feet distant fiom each other, and no regard is paid to placing them
under the rafters.  This is the method used in the houses which I have
recently erected.  On the front, or upright part, there should be two of
these; the first about eighteen inches from the ground the second at the
proper distance (10 or 14 inches,) from the roof; on the rafters, the first one
should be placed about twelve inches from the plate, and the last, or upper
one, at about fifteen inches from the ridge-pole; the intervening ones may
be at distances of three or four feet, as deemed best.  With this method of
training, small wires, running parallel with the rafters, should be attached
to the ridge-pole, or upper rod, and, resting on the other rods, be brought
down and secured to the sill, one on each side of the stem of the vine, at
about ten inches from it, to support the lateral, or fruit bunches.  The rods
should be of one quarter inch iron, secured at the ends to the wood work
oy screws. In the interior, they must be fastened to the rafters by iron
pieces, which should be three eighths of an inch in thickness, and five or
six inches long; these are secured by two screws (on a flattened end,) into
the rafters, with a socket on the other for the rod to rest in, whi:l! must be
closed firmly, by pincers, after insertion.
Vines on the back wall may be trained on wire, Dr other trellis, as may
fe most convenient.  (See trellis for out-door training.)




118            THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
or trellis; stop all the laterals as they appear at one eye
or leaf; continue to check them, as they push again, in
the same way.  The second  shoot on  last year's wood
may be cut entirely out in June, or, as soon as it is cer,
tain that no accident to the leading cane will require the
use of this as a substitute; the shoots on the spurs of the
old wood must be stopped, as often as they push, by cutting them  back to one eye.
Stop the leading cane when it has grown about fifteen
feet, and before it reaches the  top-of the house; allow
the upper lateral to grow; this will prevent the eyes on
the upper part of the cane fiom  bursting.  This lateral
should be cut back to one eye, after it has grown  three
or four feet; if it still continue growing strong, check it
again.
Early in July, dust sulphur on the floor of the house,
to prevent mildew; to be effectual, one pound should be
used for every twenty square feet of the house. If mildew  should  make its appearance, and  continue to increase, syringe the vines at evening, and dust the foliage
also with it.*
Mildew is a fungus, which perfects its seed in a very
* Nathaniel Silsbee, Jr., Esq., informs me, that in his grapery, which is
a cold house, he covers the floor twice, every summer, with sulphur, and
recommends its application in the middle oc the day, as, at that time, part
of it will rise and settle on the vine, but, X such small particles, as to do
no injury. He has found this effectual in preventing mildew. If this fungus makes its appearance before the sulphur is applied, it will be more difficult to suppress its growth. It has been very troublesome, in late houses,
this July, (1848,) and I had to dust the foliage and fruit before.it was check.
ed, and the quantity used was much greater than that named above. In
early houses, I never have it.




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.              119
short time, and spreads rapidly over the fruit and foliage,
if not destroyed.  When only a little of it appears, wiping with a soft cloth will remove it effectually. It usually comes on the vine in Massachusetts, in foggy weather, in July and August, and resembles white mould;
when observed in this fresh condition through a microscope, it is very beautiful.  Another evii, a disease to
which the grape is subject, appears on the vines and destroys more or less of the foliage at the same season of
the year, and with the same weather; it is called the
b7,[yg.   The two are often confounded, and considered
the same.  I know of no remedy for it. The mildew is
promoted in its growth by dampness, and by the east
winds. It operates singularly.  A vine in the open air
in my garden, trained on the south of the house, is very
little injured by it; branches of this vine, extending
round the corner of the house to the east side, are yearly
so badlv affected that the fruit is valueless.  Downing,
in the Horticulturist, says, "' that giving the soil a plentiful supply of plaster of Paris, and this turned under immediately, is a complete protection against mildew in
the open air." I have tried free applications of this remedy, sulphate of lime, and have not derived any benefit
fromi it.  Other persons have recommended lime and
ashes to be applied in the same way to the soil, as a certain preventive.
The rust on grapes, which seems to trouble English
cultivators, does not prevail to any extent in the northern states of America.  What little there is, usually is
produced b)y the grapes coming in contact with the moisture of the hand, or the hair.  When the grapery has




120          THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
back and end walls, washing them with lime and sulphur
is useful as a preventive against mildew.
In September, begin at the lower part of the cane, and,
with a sharp knife, cut clean out all the laterals for eight
or nine feet, leaving those on the upper part of the cane
to be cut out in the autumn pruning; be careful, in doing this, not to injure the bud or the leaf of the cane
where you cut, for from  this eye your fruit is to come
next summer.
As soon as the leaves are falling, cut back the cane to
eight or nine feet, and the two spurs to one eye, each.
With a painter's brush, put on the vines a composition.
of soft soap and sulphur, in the proportion of four pounds
sulphur to two pounds of soap; be sure to cover all the
wood, and particularly around the eyes.  To prepare this
wash, mix the two substances well together when cold,
and pour hot water upon them; it should be of the consistency of cream when put on the vine.  You can thicken this wash with a little clay.
The first of December, lay down the vines, horizontally, near the ground on the front of the house, and cover
them from  the sun.  Russia mats are the best for this
purpose; cover the border as last year.
This will end the second season of their growth. So
far, we have considered the house a cold one, or without
fire heat; if the vines have been planted in a greenhouse,
and a fire kept up, then they will have started in February or March;* if they are so situated, let the house be
* The only serious objection to growing grapes in a greenhouse is the
trouble caused fiom insects which infest the plants in the pots, and spread,
not unfrequently, over the vines. The red spider isthe most injurious, arnd.




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.                    121
kept at as low a temperature, night and day, as the safety of the plants will admit; the treatment should be the
same for the season, except the covering of them with
mats, which would be unnecessary.
Third  Year.
The third  eeason, air the house, as directed the last
year; uncover the vines from  the first to the middle of
April, as the spring may be mild or cool; keep them  in
iheir horizontal position, until the eyes have all pushed;
have a moist atmosphere, by sprinkling the vines and
the floor several times every day.  About the twentieth
of April, or the first of May, they will have pushed their
buds so as to be all ready to be put to the rods, or trellis.
During the season, give air freely when the sun shines;
shut up the windows towards night, as the sun recedes
from  the house.  The mercury should  not rise  above
seventy-five, until the blossom is over; after that has
passed. eighty or ninety, at midday, will do no harm;
occasionally, wet the floor of the house in the afternoon;
the inside border must be watered as often as the roots
of the vine require; continue this treatment for the season,   As the grapes begin  to  color, be  cautious in
watering, and, after they are fully colored, do not give
water at all until the grapes are all cut, leaving open
in the autumn, the insects, (if any,) when the leaves drop, are, by these
means, conveyed to the plants again. In the treatment of the vine thus
situated, the rules for pruning, thinning, &c., must be followed. As regards temperature, etc., they must be subject to the treatment given to the
plants, so long as the plants are in the house. It will be the better plan to
keep the vines from pushing, as long as possible, in spring, by having as
low a temperature as the plants will thrive in.
6




122          THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
some of the lights atnight, unless there is danger of
frost, or rain.
About the last of May, the shoots will be from one to
three feet long; train up the leading one the same as last
year, and cut back the others to one leaf beyond the
bunch of fruit to be retained for ripening; the bunch
nearest the cane is the one usually left on for this
purpose;* cut off all the others; never leave more than
one. bunch on a spur, and cut away all the fruit from
every alternate spur; when this is done, and there are
still more than eight good-sized  bunches remaining,
reduce them to this nurnber; these will be quite enough
for the vine to mature the first year of bearing; if the
bunches are very large, you must cut off still more; do
not allow over ten pounds of fruit to ripen on each vine;
they probably will average not less than one pound to
the bunch.
Occasionally, it will be necessary to go over the vines
and stop the laterals that push on the leading cane and
on the spurs, by cutting them back to one eye; it will be
found a saving of labor, to perform this pruning at regular intervals of a fortnight during the season; continue
this until they cease growing; the leading cane should
be stopped as soon as it reaches the top of the house,
leaving one or two laterals at the top to grow a few days,
when you should cut back one of them, and leave the
other a few days longer, when that must be cut back also.
* It sometimes happens, that a spur will have four or five bunches on
the shoot, the nearest one to the cane being at the second leaf; when this
occurs, it is tlest to leave, for ripening, the second bunch, cutting away tho
others,




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.              123
I do not syringe the vines after they are trained to the
trellis, and do not think it ever necessary, provided the
house is kept moist by watering.
The vines will begin to bloom early in June; when the
berries are as large as peas, begin to thin them; cut out
all the small ones first; no rule can be laid down as to
the number to be taken out of each bunch, for the same
kinds set their fruit more or less thickly in different
years, and in different situations.  Of Black Hamburgh,
I usually cut three out of five berries; of Zinfindal, eight
out of ten; of Chasselas, when they set well, five out of
ten: experience will soon teach one what is proper to be
done. If the shoots from  the spurs have not been tied
to the rods, they should be as soon as the thinning is
over; do this carefully, and let them be at equal distances; a little attention to this will improve the appearance
of the vines very much.
Examine the bunch as the grapes swell; if they are
pressing together, cut out still more, always taking the
smallest berries. In thinning, avoid touching the grapes
with the hand; the moisture of the flesh causes rust; if
it is necessary to handle the bunch, gloves should be
worn.  After they begin to change color, if it is necessary
to thin them more, the scissors must be used cautiously,
in order not to injure the bloom, and thereby destroy the
beauty of the bunch.
Early in July, spread the sulphur, as directed the last
year. The grapes will begin to change color in August,
and tc ripen about the middle of September.
"If the fru't-bearing branch be not very vigorous, it
ought, in July  to be cut off close to the fruit.  In t.he




124           THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
heat of summer, some leaves are necessary over the fruit
to shelter it fiom  the sunbeams until it is half ripe, and
then  bareness* is requisite to bring it to maturity.'"The Complete Gcrdener, etc., by i     De cla Quintiney,
London, 1719, page 157.
" Nets may be used to prevent birds eating the fruit,
and vials with water and honey, or a little sugar, hung
upon the branches, will induce flies to drown themselves,
which, (when  a considerable  number are in,) must be
emptied, and renewed as before."-Ibid, 157.
When ripening off, if the berries do not swell or color
well, and, in black varieties, are of a pale red color, feeling
soft, if touched, you may be assured the vines are not
strong enough to ripen the crop; cut off the lower part
of the bunch of some, and the whole of others; selecting,
for this purpose, the bunches which are the most affected
in this way, and reducing the quantity on the vine one
third, or one half, and do so as soon as you suspect this
is the case; by these means, you  may save the residue
of the crop, and, at the same time, relieve the vine from
the exhausting effort of attempting to mature it.  This is
a trouble caused by overcropping, and is entirely distinct
from. what is usually termed shanking;t for this disease,
* The leaves on the shoot bearing the fruit must never, on any consideration, be removed; if necessary to let in air and light, prune out the laterals
and cut back to the bunch. The whole tenor of this remark is only
applicable to European culture; with our American varieties, this practice
would be highly improper. It would be better never to prune or stop a
shoot than to do thus. I would advise the opposite, and say, if a shoot is
very vigorous, and is drawing an undue share of the sap to itself, to the
detriment cf other parts of the vine, check it by stopping the end of the
branch, to promote the growth of the weaker ones.
~ Shrivel or shanking in grap-  is caused by a disease on the skin of the




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.                     125
after it has once taken  hold of the bunch, there is no
remedy; the part affected must be lost.  In September,
cut out all the laterals from  the new  cane, as directed
last year.
This treatment of the vine will give  you delicious
fruit, well-colored, and, consequently, high-flavored; in
black grapes, it may be laid down as a general rule, that
when fully r'ipe, the blacker the grape, the more spirited
and richer the juice; bunches weighing about one pound
are usually better ripened than larger ones.  The berries
of the  Black  Hamburgh, grown by  these rules, will
measure three and four inches round. This grape is often grown  of a slightly reddish  tinge, and  sometimes
with very large berries, very sweet, indeed, but deficient
in flavor.
This is a simple process, but the practical operation of
it involves much labor and unremitted attention.  After
all is done that is required by pruning, thinning, watering,
&c., much depends upon the proper ventilation and heat
of the house;  this must be opened  and  shut as the
weather changes; if clouds are constantly passing during
the day, and the sun alternately obscured  or shining, it
will be difficult to regulate the temperature; a partial
opening of the top lights will allow the heat to escape,
footstalk, or stem of the bunch; in either case, it causes tho fruit beyond
the affected spot to shrivel, turn acid, and become worthless. When only
the footstalk is injured, it is termed shrivel; when a shoulder, or part of the
main bunch, it is said to be shanked. When it first appears, it is of a
brown color, and is on one side of the stem only; at this time, removing
the spot with a sharp knife will often stay its progress; when this is not
done, it will soon spread around and meet, thus girdling the part affected,
and as completely destroying the fruit beyond, as if it had been cut off.




126             THE  CULTURE  OF THE  GRAPE.
and prevent too great an accumulation of it; the person
having  charge  will soon, by  attention, ascertain  how
nuch ventilation is required under such circumstances.
It will be preferable  to have a low  temperature, and
changing between sixty-five and eighty, than by having
the house closed, the heat raised, for even  a very short
time, to one hundred, or one hundred and twenty, which
would be the case in changeable weather, should the sun
shine forth  suddenly, and  the house be entirely closed.
This must never be allowed, but, as soon  as there is a
prospect of the sun shining, open the lights a little, and
continue opening as the heat increases.
Avoid sudden changes of the temperature as much as
possible, and the air should, at all times, be admitted
gradually.*
* In regulating the temperature of the grapery, care should be had to
prevent the too great accumulation of heat from the sun; to avoid this, the
windows, or the ventilators, must be opened a little as soon as the heat
begins to increase, and thus, little by little, as the mercury rises; by this
method, your vines will not be exposed to the injurious effects of sudden
changes, as would be the case, if you allowed the windows and doors to
remain closed until the sun shone full and strong upon it; in such management, upon admitting air, the temperature would be lowered in consequence,
which, with an increasing of the sun's rays, would be highly improper, and
should never be allowed.  Some sudden change may render this rise of
temperature, in a degree, unavoidable; if this should occur, air must be
allowed to enter at once, in sufficient quantity to prevent any further
accumulation of it.
In a grapery without artificial heat, it is best to accustom the vines to a
plenty of air, and a temperature somewhat in consonance with that without.
Should you, in  bright and fine weather, use them  to a very high
temperature, the vine would be made to require this, and, at the time of
ripening of the fruit; when the climate is always cooler, should the weather
be cloudy, or otherwise unpropitious, you would have no means at command
to raise the temperature, and the consequence would be a loss of part of
the fruit by shrivel and shalking.




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.             127
Never allow any of the leaves of the vine to be taken
off for the purpose of admitting the sun to the grapes.
If aphis, or the vine-fretter, appear on the vine, fumigating the house with tobacco will destroy them. If red
spiders are troublesome, moisture and sulphur are the
only remedies; syringing the vines at evening, and
dusting the leaves with flour of sulphur.
In September, all but the last lateral on the spurs
should be cut out.
When the leaves are off, early, in November, cut back
jhe leading cane, leaving four feet only of the new, or
this year's growth; this will now make the entire length
of the cane twelve or thirteen feet; cut back, close to
the old wood, the spurs that have fruited this year; those
that have not, cut back to one eye, or bud, to bear fruit
the coming season; clean and put over the vines the
soap and sulphur, as before; and, the first of December,
lay them down and cover them, as last season.  Washing
the back wall of the grapery with flour of sulphur, added
to common lime whitewash, will destroy insects, and
have a tendency to prevent mildew in Summer.
If the spurs are too close together, you can cut out
those that are not wanted; they should not be nearer
together than four inches; this would make them  eight
inches apart on each side the cane, and closer than they
are often grown; if nearer, they would obstruct the
light.
Fourth  Year.
The fourth year, follow the same directions for venti



128             THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
lating, giving   air,  and  watering  the  vines  and   the
floor of the house as heretofore.
After the vines are secured to the trellis, and the shoots
are one or two inches long, rub out, from the spurs which
were cut close, all but one shoot; this you must leave to
grow for future use; do not allow it to bear fruit this
season.
If  the  vines are  strong, and were  not injured  by
overbearing last year, you can now  leave on  each vine
fifteen bunches, that will weigh one pound each, to ripen
this season;  let the  bunches  be  distributed, at proper
distances, over the vine. The leading cane should not
be allowed to bear fruit until it has  become  established
at the length desired for permanent use, when it can be
fruited as well as the other shoots.  Very strong, healthy
vines will often show, on this length of cane, sixty to one
hundred bunches;  and it requires some firmness, in  an
inexperienced person, to cut out in this free manner.*
* Grapes under glass, and in the open air, almost invariably do well the
first and second year of fruiting. This is undoubtedly to be attributed to
the fresh soil having, in its constituent parts, all the requisite ingredients.
The cause of their bearing fruit in a diminished degree after this may be,
that some substalce was supplied in a small quantity, and has become
exhausted, or, it may be that the vine has been too highly excited by
stimulating manures, given too freely at first, and not continued; but more
frequently, I apprehend, by suffering the vine to mature too much fruit.
Pruaning.-" In your leading article, on the subject of the vineries at
Bishop's Stortford, you concluded by saying, that the vines there were
pruned on Mr. Crawshay's system.  [This is giving a new and improper
name to an old system; it has long been in use in France, and is known
as the close-spur system of pruning, its proper appellation.-EDITOR.]  i
presume, from that general allusion, that the system is well understood by
professional gardeners; but I rather think it is not as universally knovwn
as it would seem to deserve, if it can be proved to be certain and successful.
In all treatises I have read on pruning the vine, from Speechly dowrnwards




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.                          129
Prune  at the same time, and  in  the same way as last
year; and, at the autumn trimming, leave four feet more
of the new cane; this will now be sixteen or seventeen
feet long, and of sufficient length to bear as large crops
as the vine should ever be required to do.  In November,
clean and place the vines, and protect them from frost,
as heretofore.
I have never met with any which has detailed this mode of treatment, or
recommended its adoption.  I have heard it, in conversation, described as
the'walking-stick system,' because its principle consists in giving very
zmuch that appearance to the main stem, which is always preserved.  At
each autumnal pruning, the whole of the new wood is cut off to within an
eighth of an inch of the old stem. So small, indeed, is the spur left, that
the growth of the wood of the following year nearly levels it with the
old wood.  At the point of junction of' this eighth of an inch with tho
stem, one or more buds are developed, which, in the succeeding year,
become the shoots upon which the fruit is produced.  The old fashioned
grape-grower sees with dismay, in this system, all the buds of the year
which have grown and ripened under the influence of' a summer and
autumn's sun, annihilated'at one fell swoop,' and stares, when told that he
is to trust' entirely, for his crop of next year, to a bud which he can hardly
see.  Might I ask your contributors, who delight in vine culture, whether
the success of this plan depends upon the great power working at the
roots,-the forty barge loads of manure, such as our friend at Bishop's
Stortford supplies to the gluttony of his vines,-and which converts that
which, in ordinary circumstances, would be at best but a weak wood bud,
to the production of the finest fruit?  Is this mode of pruning likely to be
generally successful?  There are, undoubtedly, many advantages in it.
Amongst others, it does seem more consistent with nature, and with all our
ideas of rendering culture subservient to her laws, to retain the, main stem
of the tree which furnishes the largest capacity for the flow of the sap; it
also enables us to keep both fruit and foliage close under the rafters, and
thereby to secure the greater quantity of light flowing into our houses.
J. J."-Garden'er's Chronicle, 1847, p. 718.
At the exhibition of the London Horticultural Society, in November
184,7 grazles of the Black Hamburgh and Muscat of Alexandria varieties,
from the above vineries, obtained the Knightian medal, and it was said of
them, that'' etter specimens coul  scarcely have been desired."
Q*A




130         THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
fthA Year.
Fifth year, the same general treatment is to be pursued; the leading cane must be stopped at the top of the
house, leaving two or three of the extreme laterals to
grow a short time, and stopping them  at intervals of
four or five days, the top one first.
You may now allow the vines to bear twenty pounds
of fruit, and, as they grow older and stronger, you can
increase the weight to twenty-five pounds. I have never
seen more than this quantity ripened on a vine, in this
country, (under ordinary circumstances,) without injuring
the crop the year after. It, is true, we often hear of
much larger crops, but my experience will not warrant
anything of the kind.
Remarkable Vines.-In England- there are two very
remarkable vines, which are said to produce, yearly,
over two thousand bunches.  One of these, that at
Hampton Court, I saw  in the summer of 1836; it
then was bearing a crop of over two thousand bunches;
they were, generally, small, however, and the berries
were not large; the man having charge of the house
said that it did not look as well as usual. In 1846, a
gentleman who visited it describes the bunches as small,
but numerous, and looking well; the roof of the house
is covered with the vine; it is trained horizontally, and
passes, two or three times, the whole length of the roof.
The pruning is on the spur system, but a shoot is laid
in, wherever wanted to fill a vacant space.
"The vine at Hampton Court Palace, which was
planted in the year 1769, has a stem of thirteen inches




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.             131
in girth, and a principal branch one hundred and fourteen feet in length, which, in one year, produced two
thousand and two hundred bunches of grapes, each
weighing, on an average, a pound."-Phillip's Companion to the Orchard.
Of the Hampton Court vine, Speechly says:' When I
saw this magnificent vine in 1788, the crop of grapes was
moderate, and the bunches, in general, very small. But
since then, I have, from time to time, been informed of
its having often produced most abundant crops, and of
large and well-perfected bunches."
"' Mr. Eden planted a vine of the Black Hamburgh
sort, at Valentine House, Essex, in the year 1758, which
is the parent of the vine at Hampton Court, and has extended itself to upwards of two hundred feet in length,
being so productive that it ripened two thousand bunches
of grapes in 1819,"-Phillip's, etc.
" At Valentine, near Ilford, in Essex, (England,) the
seat of the late Sir Charles Raymond, there is a vine,
now growing, whose branches extend and furnish the
entire roof of a pine stove, which is seventy feet long
by eighteen feet broad. And, moreover, some of the
branches are trained downwards, and also cover a great
part of the back wall of the said building. The vine,
which is the Black Hamburgh, was planted in the year
1758, and grows entirely in the inside of the stove. The
girth of the main stem, at two feet from the ground, is
about thirteen inches."' —Seechly.
"This vine produced annually upwards of three- hundred weight of fruit, and, in some seasons, upwards of
four hundred."-Penny Cyclopoedia.




132         THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
At the entrance to Spae's Garden, Ghent, " is situated
an uncommonly large vine, the stem, a little above the
ground, measuring one foot nine inches in circunference.
We were assured that it is more than a hundred years
old, and, from its appearance, we could easily believe
that it may have seen even two centuries."-H-ort. Tour.,
EdinburgA, 1823.
At Antwerp, "our attention was attracted by a very
large and ancient vine, apparently of the variety called
the Frankendale, planted in the centre of a front wall of
a large house, which it now covers. The pavement of
the street reaches close up to the stem, which is secured
from being injured by carts, &c. by means of a woodei
box.
" At the height of between two and three feet from
the ground, a branch had originally been trained, hori
zontally to each side, the whole extent of the house, or
about thirty feet in each direction. From these horizontal branches, which are now very thick and resemble
trunks, many upright branches arise, which are trained
vertically even to the eaves of the roof, or between thirty
and forty feet high. Very few bunches of fruit were to
be discovered, and it was evident that the vine was not
judiciously pruned. —Hort. Tour., &c.
Botanic Garden, Amstecardam.-" In front of the greenhouse grows a large vine, about eighty years old, and
which spreads over the roof, It is of the Frankenthal
kind, and by much the largest tree of this variety which
we have seen, the stem being two feet two inches in circumference at three feet from the ground." — ort. Tour.,
&Q




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.             133
" In Northallerton, in Yorkshire, there is a vine now
(1789) growing, that once covered a space containing one
hundred and thirty-seven square yards; and it is judged
that, had it been permitted, when in its greatest vigor,
to extend itself, it might have covered three or four times
that area. The circumference of the trunk, or stem, a
ttle above the surface of the ground, is three feet eleven
aches. It is supposed to have been planted one hunAred and fifty years, but, from age and injudicious mauagement, it is now, and has long been in a very declining state."-Speechly.
" In the town of Bridgenorth, Shropshire, there is a
vine, which has been planted about sixteen years, which
covers a wall twenty yards wide and sixteen yards high,
and had on it, in November, 1847, from  two to three
hundred and fifty pounds of unripe grapes."'-Gard.
Chronicle, 1847, p. 734.
The vine at Cumberland Lodge, Windsor Park, is supposed to be the largest cultivated vine in the world. " In
1843, it bore a crop of two thousand three hundred and
fifty bunches, averaging one pound each; the vine, at
that time, was one hundred and thirty-eight feet long
and sixteen feet wide, and covered two thousand two
hundred and eight superficial feet of wall. It was then
forty years old."  This account of the Cumberland Lodge
vine I found in some English publication, some years
since, but did not minute where, as the memorandum
was made for my use, without reference to publication.
Chaptal says:' I have found, in the notes I have received upon the age and size of the plant, that the frost
which injured the vines in the department of Doubs, in




134         THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
the autumn of 1739, while the grapes were yet on the
vines, was of such intensity as to kill a remarkable vine
of the White Muscat variety.  This vine was exposed to
the south, and protected fiom  the cold winds; it was in
the Rue Poiture, at Besan9on. The age of this vine was
unknown, but the stem  was about six feet in thickness
the branches extended to about forty-six feet high, ar
spread over a wall more than one hundred and thirt
three feet. The death of this remarkable vine caused
painful sensation through the whole province."-Ciaqptai
Trae eur laZc Czulture de cla Yiyne, p. 144.
It is unusual to see a bunch of Black Hamburgh grapes
weighing more than four pounds.  At the exhibition of
the London Horticultural Society, at Chiswick, on the
9th of July, 1836, there was shown a very fine bunch of
this variety which weighed eight pounds and six ounces;
it is mentioned in London's Magazine as " hitherto unrivalled;" see vol. 12th, page 444.*
A simple furnace and flue, to run along the front of
the house, even when it is not intended to force, is desirable, as a small fire can then be made in wet weather,
and, after the fruit is ripe, by keeping the air dry, you
will be able to preserve the grapes sound a great length
of time.
The fall pruning of the fourth year will leave the vine
established at the proper length at which it may ever remain; the fall trimming the fifth year, and ever after,
will be the same as that of the fourth,-cutting the leading cane back to the dormant eyes.
* I had the satisfaction of seeing this bunch of grapes; it probably is the
largest bunch of this kind ever grown.




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.             135
If, after a series of years, the cane should become too
long, it can then be cut back to the next spur from the
top.
REMARKS ON FORCING THE VINE.
"The horticulturist, when he steps into this depart-nent, aspires to the top and mastership of his art. A
full acquaintance with what his predecessors knew, as
principle,-a vigilant attention to what his contemporaries offer as improvements, with a capacity to estimate
new practices,-a considerable personal share of intelligence, experience, and invention,-will not more than
qualify him for his profession.
" The term  hot-house, and that of forcing-house, are
not indiscriminately applied to the same description of
place by practical men in general; nor is this a distinction without a difference.
" A hot-house may be considered as constructed to sustain plants which are too tender to live in the open air of
the country in which it is employed. A  forcing-house
may be defined to be an artificial garden for plants which
will grow in the open air, by its aid to obtain a crop
sooner than the natural operation of the seasons will mature; the former is a substitute for a given hot climate;
the latter is an anticipation of the local summer. The
heat of the former is permanent and more uniform, resembling the steady elevation of temperature which prevails in the regions nearest the line; that of the latter
eactuates farther from a common-medium; but, whether




136         THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
raised or reduced, it is equally directed to an imitation
of nature's course in some climate. The forcing-house,
however, is frequently so assimilated in its construction
and economy to the hothouse, on account of the culture
requisite for plants of a mixed nature, that the difference
vanishes. But both the separation and the interchange
may be accounted for by the nature of any given plar
Thus the cherry will ripen its fruit perfectly in the ope.
air; the forcing-house, for the cherry, is far remove_
from the hothouse. Few kinds of the grape, however
favored by aspect and shelter, come to maturity under
the influence of our natural summer (the climate of England); and most of the sorts which are forced would
never ripen under it; the grape forcing-house and the
hothouse are, therefore, convertible things."-Encyclopcecdia.
If it be intended to winter-force, you must not commence the process, the first year, before the first of
March; the second year, you may begin the middle of
February; the third year, the first of February, and so
on, fifteen days earlier every year, until you reach the
first of December; beyond this you can hardly go, as
this allows only time to prune and clean the vine after it
has gone into rest.
The first of March is recommended as the best time
to commence fire-heat for the main crop of grapes; this
can hardly be considered as forcing; it is a simple protection and aid to the natural growth, and as heavy if
not larger crops can be matured as in a cold house.
In a house that is forced in December or January,,




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.             137
every year, ten pounds of grapes are quite as much as
each vine will perfect, on an average of years.
Before making the fires, the border must be attended
to; if it was covered in the autumn with coarse litter or
leaves, as directed, it should now have a quantity of fresh
strawy stable manure added, and well mixed with the
litter; cover the whole border to the depth of eighteen
inches, and protect this from the cold rain and snow with
boards; this will effectually prevent the frost from penetrating to the roots. The management of the vine will
"be the same as directed for the cold house; the pruning,'thinning, and training must all be done in the same manner. Forcing, earlier than the first of March, is attended with much more risk of failure;.the expense and
trouble are more, and these are all increased in proportion as you begin before this time, and the amount of
fruit which a vine is able to mature is diminished in a
similar ratio.
DIRECTIONS FOR MANAGING THE FORCING-HOUSE.
Commence forcing your house with a temperature of
400 at night, 60~ by day; admit air freely when the sun
shines; upon the furnace and the flues, place pans oi
water; the vines should be kept in a horizontal position
until they are pushing strong; syringe or wet them repeatedly during the day, and keep the air of the house
moist by watering the floor. After ten days, raise the
temperature to 45~ by night, 65~ by sunshine; continue
to keep the house moist until the vines have all broken




138         THE &ULTURE OF THE GRAPE
well, and have been put up to the trellis, when you can
lessen gradually the watering; let the pans of water, on
the furnace and flue, be constantly filled while the grapes
are growing; after they begin to color, lessen the number of pans of water gradually, and the moisture of the
house, and ripen off the fruit in a dry atmosphere.
Vines do not appear to be seriously injured by bleeding, however severe this may be. The only effect from
it, which I have been able to discover, is a tendency to
retard the pushing of the buds, and, on long canes of
spurs, the causing of the last eye to be blind. It cannot
be of any advantage to the vine, that is certain, and it
should be guarded against by early pruning.
In the Gardeners' Chronicle for 1846, page 771, there
is an account of vines which had been winter-forced, and
which had ripened a crop of fruit; as it was intended to
remove the vines, the causing them  to bear a second
crop was attempted; to effect this, the vines were severely pruned the first of May; they bled excessively; notwithstanding this, the buds broke well, and ripened the
fruit in October. The wood, also, was well ripened,
round, and firm, with full eyes, and, so well did it appear, that the idea of throwing away the vines was
abandoned. They had previously been troublesome from
over-luxuriance.
In ten days more, raise the temperature to 50~ or 550
at night, and by day, when cloudy, to 65~, or, when the
sun shines, to T5~. This temperature should be gradually raised at night until the grapes are in bloom, when
the heat should be as equal as possible, 70~ at night,'5^~
or 80~ by day, when the sun shines. Do not let the




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.             139
temperature of the house, by artificial means, rise above
70~ in this stage of forcing.
In May and June, we often have some very hot days,
with a bright sun and dry air, the temperature in the
open air 800 or 900, and even higher; in such weather,
you cannot prevent the heat of the house rising to over
1000; if the air should be very dry, it would burn the
leaves, and injure them more to have all the lights and
doors thrown wide open, than a greater degree of heat
with proportionate moisture would do.
The shrivel in grapes is caused, frequently, by too
large a crop; sometimes by too much moisture at the
roots, and often by a sudden change of air, or too low a
temperature; the best preventive for the two latter
troubles is a constant free circulation of warm air.*
In the management of your house, aim to imitate nature, by a regular increase of heat, as in spring.
Early in October, you may cut back the spurs to two
eyes, if you think the wood is not ripening well; be
careful and do not cut, or otherwise injure, the remaining eyes, or their leaves; this will admit more sun to the
house, and  promote  a free  circulation of air, and
strengthen the eyes retained.
In winter, the mercury, in the open air, frequently
falls to zero, and sometimes six and ten degrees below,
with a high wind blowing at the same time.
In January, February, and the early part of March,
for weeks together, it will be found, during the night,
ranging from ten above, down to, zero. In such a climate, a powerful and steady heat is necessary.
* See Remarks on Shrivel




140         THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
The boiler and pipe to circulate hot water around the
house, on the level principle, together with the furnace
and flue, are recommended as the best and safest heating
apparatus.  A furnace and flue will not heat more than
twenty-five feet of a grapery that is forced in the winter
months, and, for any additional length of the house,
other furnaces must be added, in the like proportion, or
the hot water apparatus substituted.*
The following is a memorandum  of the regulation of
the heat, with the dates on which the different operations,
were performed, in a house forced in the winter.
November.-The vines were pruned; every alternate
spur was cut at one eye to fruit; the others were cut
close, as there were more spurs than the strength of the
vine would admit of fruiting the coming season.
When the vines were not of sufficient length for the
rafters, we retained as much of the new cane as was required, or as the strength of the vine would allow.
The loose bark was rubbed off, and the vines painted
over with the composition of soap and sulphur.
The border was covered with litter.
The first of December, the vines were placed in a
horizontal position, near the front of the house, and covered with Russia mats; those on the back of the house
were laid down and covered in the same manner.  Fromr
this date it is not unusual for the cold to be occasionally
severe, the mercury falling to near zero; when this is the
case, sufficient fires must be made to keep a temperature
of 280 to 320 by night.
* The Polmaise System, and the manner of building the furnace, are
described under the head of Furnaces, &c.




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.             141
December 20th.-The fires were made, and forcing
commenced; the temperature of the house was kept at
40~ at night, 60~ by day; fresh stable manure was put
on the border, and well mixed with the litter already
there; the vines, and the floor of the house, were repeatedly watered, and pans of water placed on the furnace
and flues; this temperature was kept up, and the watering continued, untilJanuary ist, 1847,-when the temperature was raised
to 450 at night, 65~ by day, and air freely admitted,
"when the sun shone; wetting the house and vines continued.
January 5th.-The temperature was raised, at night, to
50~; by day, if cloudy, to 65~; when the sun shone, to
700, with plenty of air admitted, and the pans of water
daily replenished. This heat was continued toJanuary 10th,-when at night, the temperature was
kept at 50~ to 55~; by day, if cloudy, 65~; when the sun
shone, 75~, with air; the top windows were let down,
every other light, three or four inches in the morning,
and, as the heat increased, more air was gradually admnitted.
When the house became quite warm with sun heat,
the front lights were opened a little. The sun has so little force at this season, and the days are so short, that I
have found it unnecessary to open the fiont lights, and
do not advise it being done before March, and then only
to a small extent; the top lights being sufficient for ventilation. In very cold days, and with a bright sun shining, the windows were not opened more than four inches;
watered the house freely in mild weather, giving less in




142         THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
very cold; the pans of water were kept full. This treatment was continued toJanuary  20th,-when the temperature, in  cloudy
weather, was raised to 70~ by day; during the night,
and on sunshiny days, the same as from the tenth instant; and this was continued to February.
The vines, near the furnace, were all pushing, both
sets at the same time, those planted on the outside of the
house, and those on the inside. The mercury, in the
open air, last night, was at zero; in the house, at 9,
P.M., it was 55~; at 7, A.M., 480, with as large fires as
the furnace would allow.
January 25th.-Nine of the vines, which were nearest
to the furnace, were tied to the rods.
January 27th.-Put up sixteen more.
February lst.-The temperature, at night, was kept at
550 to 65~; by day, and when cloudy, 700 to 750; by
sunshine, 75~ to 85~, giving air as above; and this temperature was continued until the blossom was over; the
remaining vines, on the front of the house, were taken
up and secured to the rods.
February 2d.-The vines, on the back of the house,
were tied to the trellis; some of the shoots, on the vines
near the furnace, were two feet, and some three feet
long; they were cut back to one eye beyond the fruit.
February 10th. —Rubbed out all but one shoot on each
spur, where it had not been done before; the spurs
which were cut close have generally pushed, from dor* This can-be done as soon as the shoots are one inch long, shortly aftet
the canes are put up.




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.                143
rrant eyes at their base, from two to six shoots, and most
of the shoots had fruit bunches.*
February 15th.-First blossoms opened to-day on three
of the vines; shortened back, and tied out to the rods,
the side shoots on several vines.
February 21st.-Blossoms have opened on the'eight
vines nearest the furnace, and, on the two first, the berries
are swelling off; continued to stop, and to tie up, and to
thin out, any of the shoots that are not wanted.
March 1st.-The temperature, at night, was kept at
60o to 70~; by day, when cloudy, 70~ to T5~; by sunshine, 80~ to 90~; as much air admitted asi could be,
with safety, allowed; began to thin some bunches on
three vines; ten vines were in blossom on the front, and
four on the back of the house.
March 10th.-More than half the vines were in blossom, and the grapes thinned on eight vines; the laterals
on the spurs were cut back to one eye, and this check was
repeated as they required it. I advise the cutting out of
the laterals, situated between the fruit and the main stem,
allowing those only to growthat are beyond the bunch,
and these should be stopped at one eye every ten or fourteen days, as they may grow  with more or less vigor
during the season.
March 15th.-Temperatnre the same as from the first
of the month; have been thinning the grapes the past
fortnight; they are now finished, for the first time, and
the earliest vines have been thinned two or three times.t
* The tendrils should be cut smoothly out when they first appear.
{ The shoulders of very large bunches (the Syrian) always require to be
spread out and supported by strings, to permit a free circulation of air.




144         THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
April lst.-Temperature the same as in March; from
day to day have been examining and thinning the berries,
when it was found necessary.
April 10th.-The first grapes began to color, near the
furnace, this day. Temperature as above.
April 20th.-The Zinfindal, Early Black July, and
Grizzly Frontignan coloring; the Pitmaston White Cluster nearly ripe, and the Chasselas Bar Sur Aube changing color.
May 1st.-The temperature, at night, 70~; by day, if
cloudy, 75~ to 800; by sunshine, 85~ to 95~, with air
freely admitted. The first Black Hamburgh grapes begin
to color; the pans of water were removed from the furnace and from the flue, where the grapes have colored,
or are nearly ripe; the bunches were examined, and all
defective berries cut out; all thinning, for the season,
was now finished.
May 10th.-The grapes were ripe on the first five vines;
part of the fruit, from Chasselas Bar Sur Aube, Zinfindal,
Early Black July, Pitmaston White Cluster, and Grizzly
Frontignan, has been gathered; more of the pans of
water were removed from the flue.
May 20th.-Cut Black Hamburgh grapes fully ripe;
the grapes were all ripening in every part of the house,
and have colored well; all the pans of water are now
removed, and the house kept as dry as possible.
June 1st.-The weather now being warm, the making
of fires was omitted, excepting in wet weather, when
small fires were made in the daytime, and the house was
opened for ventilation.
June 10th.-Half the crop was fully ripe, and the re.




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.              145
sidue colored.  After the grapes were all cut, the sashes
were kept open night and day, and they should be continned so until cool weather, when it will be best to close
the sashes and doors at night, to exclude hard frosts.
In July, there is every probability that the red spider
may appear on the vines of a house that has been winterforced; to destroy them, syringe the vines in the afternoon fiequently, and dust sulphur all over them; if this
does not kill them, wet the flues and the floor of the
house thoroughly, and dust both of them  well with the
sulphur; make a fire in the furnace to cause the sulphur
to send out strong fumes; you may melt it, but by no
means allow it to burn; shut up the house close, and
give it a good steaming; open it early in the morning;
this should be done in the afternoon, before the sun has
ceased to shine upon the house.
GRAPES IN POTS.
Grapes may be grown successfully in pots, proper attention being paid to watering them; doing this judiciously is the most difficult part of the process, as they
require an ample supply of moisture, and water in excess will cause the spongioles, around the sides of the
pot, to decay, and, if this happens, the crop of fruit will
fail. The soil should be rich; sods well rotted, leaf
Moul, and old cow-manure, with is small quantity of
fine charcoal and lime rubbish, will form an excellent
compost for this purpose. Air-slacked lime, or leached
ashes. can be used instead of the rubbish, if more con



146          THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
venient.  These materials should be mixed together a
few weeks before using, and in these proportions: sods,
three  parts; leaf mould, two  parts; cow-dung, two
parts; rubbish, or leached ashes and charcoal, one part.
There should be one or two inches of broken pots, stones,
or shells, at the bottom, for drainage. A vine in a
twelve-inch pot may mature from five to ten bunches.
I prefer a wooden box, or the half of a large keg, as the
soil is less liable to dry and form into a lump; when this
is the case, the water is very apt to run away by the
sides of the pot, between these and the soil, leaving the
middle of the soil perfectly dry. In the autumn, after a
vine has fruited, it should be taken out of the pot and
the soil shaken from the roots; with a sharp knife, prune
back the longest of these, and repot in fresh compost
During the winter, they must be kept from the frost, and
the only care necessary will be to see that the soil has
just enough moisture to prevent the roots from  drying
up. The next summer they must not be fruited, but
proper care must be bestowed upon them  that they may
prod luce good bearing wood for the year after.
Vines grown by single eyes, or such as would be used
for the border, are suitable for planting in pots. You
may force these vines to advantage as early as Novem
ber, if you have a proper temperature.
Liquid manure may be given when the grapes commence swelling off. This may be made as detailed in
the experimneits on the roots of the vine in bottles, and
any of those may be selected for use, as is most convenient, or as may be thought best.  If guano is used, four
pounds to thirty-three gallons of' water is -'uite strong




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.             147
enough. A writer in the Gardener's Chronicle says, four
pounds to twelve gallons; another, one pound to one
gallon.
You may train and prune the vines by any of the
plans given for the house.
RETARDING HOUSE.
The retarding house should be built upon the same
plan as the forcing house; it is not necessary that it
should be so wide, or so high on the back. [This -was
written for the first and second editions of this work;
the remarks following are now  added.]  Experience
convinces me that fine grapes may be grown in a house
of quite small dimensions, yet as a general thing, the
largest structures will be more certain to yield the finest
fruit. For the retarding house in particular this remark
should have weight. This building should be above the
sills, 16 feet high on the back wall; 5 feet on the front,
25 feet to be solid next the sill, 2- glass; windows should
be hung so as to air the house.  The width from  the
front to the back sill should be from 10 to 12 feet. These
dimensions will give a steep roof, shedding the rain and
moisture readily, and admitting the full strength of the
sun's rays on to the vines when most wanted, in October,
November, and December.
The pruning and training of the vine may be the same
as in the cold house; remembering always, that the closer
the pruning, the sooner the bud will burst in spring, and
consequently riper its fruit; the reverse is the case withl




148         THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
long spur or cane trimming; the latter is consequently
to be pursued to the greatest extent, which the future
welfare of the vines will admit of. The thinning of the
berries will be performed later than in any other house,
and care should be had that it is thoroughly done, and
more severely thanin any other way of growing them.
Early in March, the sun must be excluded from the
house; this can be done by spreading sails, or mats, over
the glass; the doors and lights must be open day and
night, when the temperature is above freezing.
In May, when the vines push their buds, the covering
must be removed from the glass; keep the temperature
as low as possible, night and day, during the summer;
the end of AMay, or early in June, the vines should be
put to the rods, or trellis.
Early in July, the grapes will be in blossom; apply
the sulphur now to the floor of the house, and observe
the vines carefully during this and the next month; if
the mildew appear on the wood: fruit, or foliage, shut the
house at night, and apply more sulphur. Never allow it
to remain on the fruit; if, by accident, any should get
on, brush it off imnmediately,-opening the house by day,
as in any grapery. Early in August, the grapes will require to be thinned.
In October, when the nights become cool, close the
doors and windows, (where it has not been done before
on account of mildewe,) giving as much air, and keeping
as low a temlperature, (when the sun shines,) by day, as
possible.
In November, small fires must be made and kept up
in the night-tine, and in cloudy weather.




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.              149
In the retarding house, where you cannot prune the
vines early, and the close-spur system is pursued, it is
best to disbud them; to  do this, a sharp knife is
necessary, cutting out every eye but the lower one on the
spur, being careful not to destroy the leaf; this will
throw all the strength of the shoot into the eye which is
to produce the.fruit the comning season.  Care must be
had not to perform  this too  early in the  autumn;
November, probably, is the best time; if done before the
vine is nearly at rest, there might be danger of breaking
the eye.
The fruit will be ripe the last of November and in
December; after which, the house must be kept as dry
as possible, having sufficient fires to keep out the frost.
After the fruit and foliage are off, prune the vines, and
protect them from the frost.
[For an extended LIST OF VINES, see page 297.]
PROPAGATING NEW KINDS FROM SEED.
If the trial to produce new sorts be persevered with
in all sections of this country, unquestionably, varieties
will be produced that will be hardy, and, at the same
time, free from  the hard pulp and foxy flavor, that
render the American sorts, in the opinion of most people, inferior to the European.
The Isabella, and generally the kinds that withstand
our climate in Massachusetts, blossom  fourteen days
earlier than the Chasselas, or Early Black July.  The
Muscat of Alexandria is a few days later still in flowering. To remedy this difficulty, and to obtain the differ



150         THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
ent kinds in flower at the same time, resort must be had
to retarding the former by some process of shading or of
promoting the flowering of the European sorts by protecting them  with glass, or some other covering, or the
farina may be saved in a tin box, or glass bottle, from
the grapery until the vines are in bloom. I have an
Isabella in the grapery growing principally for the purpose of impregnation, and I may, one of these days, produce something new  from  it. This difference of the
flowering calls in question the-accounts of seedlings havy
ing been the result of a natural cross between our native
sorts and foreign ones; under usual circumstances, it
could not have taken place.
6 Mr. Van Mons added a remark which we do not recollect to have met with in horticultural writings, that,
by sowing the seeds of new varieties of fruits, we may
expect with much greater probability to obtain other
new kinds of good quality, than by employing the seeds
of the best old established sorts." —Tort. Tour., Edinburgh, 1823.
The Vcan lfons theory is, that, when the seed of a
new variety of fruit has been planted, there is less liability to return to the wild state, than when the seed of
an old variety has been used, and he advises the sowing
the first seeds of the newest varieties of fruits, as the
surest method of producing kinds more and more excellent.
Seeds matured by the most healthy and vigorous plants
are presumed to be the best for planting, to obtain new
kinds. The applying the pollen, or farina, of one variety to the pistil, or stigma, of another, is the surer me



THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.                          151
thod of proceeding  to  obtain  new  sorts in  the shortest
time; and this is called hybridizing.
FLOWER OF THE GRAPE.*
To do this properly, the bunch  to  be  acted on should
be thinned of three quarters of the buds; the lower part
should be cut away  entirely (immediately  before inflorescence); the strongest buds always to be left.
Observe them  closely, and, as soon as the flowers open,
with sharp scissors clip the anthers, being  careful not to
injure the pistil; with a soft brush, apply the pollen
from  the kind to be used  in  impregnation, or, the whole
bunch which is to furnish the pollen may be cut from
the vine, and gently rubbed or applied  to  the bunch, by
* The left hand figure is a magnified representation of the bud of the
grape; the middle one is the blossom.  The change from  the bud to the
blossom  is usually rapid, and takes place about 30 to 40 days after the
shoot appears in the spring which bears the fruit.  This bud which forms
the blossom consists of a covering, or cap, and the embryo berry with five
anthers, which, when the time for inflorescence has come, is raised, or
lifted, by the anthers, and the wind blows this cap free.
The third is the blossom, or embryo grape, with the anthers clipped and
deprived of their farina; on the top of the embryo is the pistil; upon this
is to be placed the farina, or pollen, of the male plant; when this is done,
impregnation takes place, and the embryo rapidly swells off. If the operation has not been effectual, the berry will remain as it is. When the
grape has attained one third or one half of its size, it remains stationary
two or three weeks, and, at this time, it is perfecting the seed.  When this
is done, the fruit begins growing again; thus it appears the Feed will vegetate, even if the fruit does not ripen sufficiently to be eatable.




152          THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
frequently striking them  together on every side. This
should be repeated several days, until it is evident the
fruit is all impregnated; a fresh bunch, with the pollen in
a suitable condition, must be had at each operation.  The
pollen must be dry, and in a falling condition, to be fit for
the purpose. If your vines are so situated that a branch to
be acted upon can be brought into contact with the
branch of another kind, and the bunches interlaced, this
will be a good method of proceeding,-cutting away tihe
male part of the blossom  from  the kind that is to ripen
the seed for the new kinds.
To obtain hardy grapes, in new varieties, I should recommenld the Catawba, or the Isabella, to be impregnated
with the Frontignan, the Black July, the Golden Chasselas, the Pitmaston White Cluster, the Black HIamburgh, and Esperione; a hybrid from any of these would
probably be a grape ripening in less time than the first two.
To obtain varieties for the glass-house: the Muscat of
Alexandria to be impregnated with any of the kinds
that ripen their fru1it in a shorter time.  A hybrid from'
any of these would probably have the musk flavor, in
some degree; if tlhe object be to avoid this, some two of
the kinds free fiom this flavor must be selected. The
Esperione and Black Hainburghs, being always good
setters, are the best for the male plants.  The Golden
Chasselas, a very beautiful fruit, but often setting poorly,
would make a suitable kind to be acted upon.  The
August fMuscat, being very early, could be used as a
female also.  This variety might be used with the
American sorts, with a prospect of producing a plant
that would be both hardy and speedy ill ripenir) gt the




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.              153
fruit.  Tie Scuppernong, bearing fruit only a few berries
ill a bunch, is objected to as a parent for a new sort for
the greenhouse on that account.
If Mr. Van Mons's system of producing new kinds by
seeds from wildlings be attempted, it would be best to
try seed fronm  all kinds, the very small, as well as the
good-sized berries.
Insects.-In Massachusetts, there are but few insects
that feed upon the grape leaf.  The rose bugs, the past
year or two, have been troublesome, and, in some sections of the United States, they are very much so; being
sometimes so numerous as to eat, in a few days, every
cluster of fruit buds, or of blossoms, upon the vine.
The most effectual method of destroying them  is by
hand; covering them (when wet with dew in the morning,) with wood ashes, or lime i~ said to answer, repeating the application two or three times. Spreading a
cloth over the vine, and filling the space around under
this with tobacco smoke, will cause them to fall, when
they can be destroyed by pouring suds made from whaleoil soap upon them.  When the grape is grown on a
small scale, and the rose bugs destroy the blossom, covering the bunch with a gauze bag will be found effectual in
staying their ravages.
The large green worm  (commonly called the potato
worm,) is, in some localities, very injurious later in the
season; when in large numbers, it is such a voracious
creature it will soon eat all the foliage of a vine. When
it is known to be at work, which will be by the leaves
being lapidly eaten, all but the stems, it must be sought
for and destroyed.  It will be found, commonly, on the
7



154          THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
under part of the leaf next to the one last eaten; it is
usually of the same color as the leaf, and, unless you
observe carefully, it will escape you.
The thrips, small white insects that infest the under
side of the leaves, are not so injurious as would seem by
the spotted appearance of the leaf. Smoking, or syringing with tobacco-water, will destroy them; they injure
the looks of the vine, giving the foliage a diseased appearance.  Wide-mouthed  bottles hung amongst the
branches, (one every two square feet,) and filled with
sweetened water, will collect and destroy large quantities
of moths, and other insects.  These will require to be
emptied every few days, or the dead insects on the surface removed.
In the grapery, the two years past, the common red
caterpillar has been exceedingly annoying.  The white
moth lays its eggs on the under part of the leaf, and the
first notice you have of the young is when you discover
small spots eaten in the leaf; on examination, you will
now find the young caterpillar, one fourth of an inch in
length, spread over the leaves; you mlust destroy all you
can find at once, and, every day, examine the vine anew;
notwithstanding all this care, some of them  will probably escape you, and lgrow to a good size.  If these are
very numerous, and are on more than one or two vines,
it will be best to fumigate the grapery with tobacco
leaves, or stems,  This will be necessary, if thrips, or the
aphis, or green fly appear in the house. In smoking, care
must be had that the foliage is not injured by the heat
from the tobacco; this should be moist, so that it cannot
burn with a blaze' embers and ashes should be placed




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.                  155
upon it, and the tobacco allowed to smoulder, causing
smoke and not heat.
CULTURE IN THE OPEN AIR.
The mildew at the north, and the rot at the south, render the cultivation of foreign varieties of the grape, in
the open air, in this country, almost useless.  The diffiiculty is not with the season; this is long enough to ripen
imany kinds, were it not for the above trouble.  I have
seen, iln my garden, the Early Black July perfectly colored the first of September; but the leaf was so injured by
mildew that the grapes did not sweeten, or obtain any
flavor.*
In some of our cities, they occasionally ripen very
well.  If it is desired to make the attempt, the border
should be made with care, in the same way as directed
for house culture; they may be trained by any of the
systems described; prune them, and thin the berries in
the same manner as if in the house.
The Pitmaston White Cluster, Early Black July, Golden Chasselas, and Esperione are recommended as the
best for cultivation in the vicinity of Boston; further
south, the Black Hamburgh and Frontignans may be
added to the list; and south of 40~ north latitude, the
* Application, to the foliage of the vine, of sulphur, in a free manner, is
the only effectual remedy of which I can speak practically; other remedies
have been recommended, such as lime, ashes, etc., to the soil. Apply the
sulphur early in the morning when the leaves are wet, and renew it as
often as the rain washes it away.




156         THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
Muscat of Alexandria and other late sorts may be tried.
The August Muscat is the earliest of any grape, and can
be tried, as it may be worthy of cultivation when the
vine becomes strong.
In November, the vines must be laid down and well
covered with straw, or litter, to protect them from the
frost, when cultivated in the northern states.
In Hovey's Magazine of Horticulture, vol. 12th, is a
conmmunication by Mr. J. W. Russel, gardener to Horace
Gray, Esq., on the cultivation of the grape, in which he,
gives the following receipt to prevent mildew.  Having
found the application of sulphur to the floor of the house
all that was necessary in cultivating the grape under
glass, I have never used this preparation, but, for their
cultivation in the open air, I would strongly advise its
trial; it should be applied in July, or earlier, if there is
any appearance of mildew on the fruit, wood or foliage.
Receipt. —   To one peck of quick lime, add half a
pound of sulphur; put them  into a tight barrel, and
pour boiling hot water over them  sufficient to slake all
the lime, and it will be found that the sulphur is mixed
with it in the best possible manner; then pour on to the
top of it three gallons of soft water, and stir it well together, leaving it to settle; in about twenty-four hours,
the water on the top will be perfectly clear.
"This should be taken off as clear as possible, and put
into a stone jar, there to remain until wanted.  Half a
pint of this mixture will be sufficient for three gallons of
water
" This wash will not injure aitlter the fruit or leaves,
and no person could tell that ary thing but clean water




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.                  157
had been used, only that it leaves a stain on white paint,
which will wear off in a little time.  This is a sure remedy for the mildew, and, therefore, worth knowing to
every grape cultivator."*
The Isabella, a native grape, succeeds better in the
open air than  any other variety in this vicinity; the
border should be well made, and in a dry situation; the
training must be different from that of the foreign kinds;
it will not bear the severe pruning which is necessary for
them; the summer shoots should be tied to the trellis;
leading up or out, in different direct,)ns, shoots to be
partially retained, at the winter pruning, for the extension of the vine.  In August or September, cut back the
ends of all the shoots made this year to check the growth,
and let the sun and air have access to the vine.  Winterprune, in February, on the spur system, leaving addition
to the extreme shoots of about two feet of the new wood,
and when this cane grows too long for the trellis, cut it
back, at the winter pruning, to any length desirable, and
lead up a new shoot the cominng season to take its place.
The quantity of fruit that a vine of this variety will
ripen, when it has arrived  at maturity, under proper
nmanagement, and  is favorably situated, is remarkably
large; two bunches on a spur may be allowed to ripen;
the berries do not require the thinning that foreign ones
do; the small ones only should be cut out.
When gathered in  perfectly  dry  weather, and put
Prince's Treatise on the Grape contains this receipt, and it is there
stated, that the application of it, in the garden of Capt. Smith, of Newport,
R. I., to the Chasselas grape, was attended with success. The material
part left, after drawing the clear liquid off, may be used for washing the
wall, or trellis; upon which the,.nle is trained.




158          THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
away in a cool place, just above the freezing point, and
packed in layers of cotton, they will often keep good until March.  Before packing, each bunch should be examined, and any defective berry cut out.
The Catawba will not ripen as far north as Boston.
Pond's Seedling is one of the best native varieties;
the fruit, however, is but seldom seen, and it is therefore
presumed to be a shy bearer.
Bland's Virginian will not ripen at the north.
Elsinburgh is too small to be worthy of cultivation
The Ohio grape is tender, and, at the north, requires
the same protection as foreign kinds; the bunches are
large and long, but the berries very small.
The vineyard cultivation of the native varieties of the
grape, in the United States, is attracting more attention
yearly.  On the banks of the Ohio River, the planting
is increasing rapidly, and on the hills near Reading, Pa.,
are vineyards for the purpose of making wine.
The first attempt to grow the vine in our western country, to any extent, for the purpose of making wine, is
generally credited to a party of Swiss, who commenced
their operations at Vevay, on the Ohio River. According to Mr. Longworth, it has not been successful.  This
gentleman is interested in this culture, and by statements
of his in Downing's Fruits and Fruit Trees of America,
he had, in 1845, seventy acres planted with vines and
divided into fourteen vineyards, under the management
of Germans and Swiss.  Mr. Longworth recommends
the Catawba as the best variety for the west.*  The Eu* I am informed by the vineyard growers of the grape on the banks of
the Ohio, that th ~ Catawba is now regarded as the best wine grape.




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.              159
ropean kinds have not succeeded with him. The following are his remarks: " The grape requires a good soil,
and is benefited by well-rotted mannre.  For aspect, I
prefer the sides of hills, but our native grapes would not
succeed well in a dry sandy soil, particularly the Catawba. The north sides of our hills are the richest, and I
believe they will, as our summers are warm, in the majority of seasons, produce the best crops.
" Deep ploughing is the better preparation of the
land for the vines. Where a hill is steep, trenching and
walling, or sod-terracing, is necessary.' We generally leave six feet between the rows, and
use the plough, setting the plants three to four feet apart,
and training them  to stakes about six feet high.99Downing's Fruits Cand FGruit Trees, page 251.
It has been considered of sufficient importance to give
the views of European cultivators and others, at length,
upon the vineyard systems of culture pursued there.
The American kinds of the grape, requiring a different
plan of pruning, will render many of the practices, particularly the close pruning (in summer,) and planting of
the vines, impracticable here; still, the remarks on mnanures and soil, and details of some of the plans of training, will be worthy of notice by American grape growers.
First comes the exposition. It is the established opinion, in vineyard culture, that the best fruit is produced
where the vine receives the most sun, not upon the fruit,
but upon the foliage.  Prince says, " Theibaut de Berneaud reumarks, that an eastern aspect would be preferable to all others, if it did not expose the plants, during




160          THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
the first warm days of spring, to be blasted by the burning rays of the sun operating upon the small icicles, each
of which acts as a lens.  A  southern exposure (he continues,) is generally too hot in a warm  climate, and a
western one is least to be desired, as the plant there receives a direct heat after the early hours of the day have
abstracted the moisture, and, therefore, dries and burns
it; and he recommends, as a general rule, that, in southern regions, an eastern aspect should have the preference,
and, in northern ones, that a southern exposure should be
selected."  Prince's iTreatise, page 46.
Yet there are exceptions to these rules.  Vineyards
with northern exposures have become celebrated, probably owing to favorable circumstances of soil.  In the
southern part of the United States, it will be best to try
every situation, as the retarding of vegetation a short
time might be the means of saving the fruit, either from
being destroyed by a late frost, or from excessive rains,
at the time of inflorescence, or from rot, caused by too
much wet, at a later peried.
The plan pursued by American horticulturists in vineyard and garden culture, in some instances in their own
language, is described, and as it appears settled from
these accouris that our native grapes (different varieties
succeeding in various sections of the country,) answer
every purpose of vineyard culture, there does not appear
to be any occasion to try any others, excepting on a small
scale for the dessert.
MIr. IHoare says, "In the choice of a good aspect,
therefore, shelter from  high winds, and those asect.
that are the least exposed to their effects, and that receivo




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.              161
a full portion of the solar rays, may be deemed the best.
The best aspects in the southern parts of England are
those that range from the eastern to the southeastern, the
last of which may be considered the- very best. The
next best are those which follow in succession fron: southeast to south.  An aspect due south is undoubtedly a
very good one, but its exposure to those strong winds
yWhich frequently blow from the southwest forms a great
"drawback.  The remaining aspects are those which range,successively from due south to due west. These are all
good ones provided they are sheltered, or partially so,
from the destructive effects of the high winds above mentioned.  North of the western point, the maturation of
the wood and fruit of the vine becomes uncertain.  East
by north is a very good one.  North of this point, the
solar rays are not sufficiently powerful to mature either
the wood or fruit."-Treatise on the Grape, by Clenzent
Hoare.  1837.
Chaptal says, "That the middle of a h\i]l side produces the best wine, the upper part the second best, and
the bottom of the hill the most inferior;" showing, apparently, that the middle location contains the essential
nourishment required, that, in the upper part, there is a
lack of this, and at the foot of the hill there is either
too much of it, or too much moisture.
Monsieur de la Quintiney says of the Muscat grapes,
that they;' require a temperate country and the expositions of the south and east, and always a light ground;
we seldom see any good in pure earth, and, if it be in
hot climates, in gravelly and sandy grounds."   Page
229.




162         THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
The Penny Cyclopoedia says of the aspect: " On the
steep slopes of hills towards the south, and sheltered
from the northeast, the grapes attain the greatest maturity, and the vintage is most certain. So great an influence has a favorable exposure, that in the same vineyard
the greatest difference exists between the wine made
from one part and that made from  another, merely because there is a turn round the hill, and the aspect varies
a very few degrees.  A change of soil produces a similar
effect.  The famous Rhine wine, called Johannisbergh,
when made from the grapes which grow near the castle,
is worth twice as much as that made a few hundred
yards farther off. Here both soil and aspect change.
The Clos de Vougeau, which produces the finest Burgundy, is confined to a few acres; beyond a certain wall,
the wine is a, common Burgundy, good, but without extraordinary merit."
At Bourdeaux, a southeast exposure is preferred, and
in Germany, generally, a southwest; in some places, a
northern exposure is thought best, as the danger from
late frosts is less.
Chaptal is considered as the best French authority on
the vine. I-ls object, in his Treatise on the Grape, was
to promote the improvement of the quality of the wine,
and to discourage the use of manures, as one of the
main causes of this inferiority.  The practical ideas of
this treatise are mostly attributed to the Abbe Rosier, of
whom  it is said, "that, retiring to the home of his
fathers, he, for a long time, practised agriculture, not
only studying all previous systems of vine culture, but
comparing the old with his experience, the local practices




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.               163
with the laws of natural philosophy, to bring the culture
of the vine to its highest state of perfection was his particular object."  In the introduction, he asks, "Why is
it, that so large a number of the wines of France, formerly celebrated, are now  fallen into discredit?  Why,
these wines should be of so ordinary a quality, whilst
those of another district have acquired and preserved a
merited reputation?  On reflection, we cannot attribute
the difference entirely to the situation, the climate, or
the soil. Is it not, then, to the little care of the cultivators, to the following of a blind routine, or to the ignorance of the laws of nature, or to the preference that is
given to vines that abound in juice of a gross nature,
above those which produce wines of a better quality?"
Page 6.
" The laws of vegetation, regarding the vine, will show
you that a rich soil will produce the most vigorous shoots,
but that the sap thus communicated from the vine to the
grape would not be sufficiently elaborated; the wine
would be insipid and weak.  It is necessary to diminish
the vigor of the vine to obtain a wine of good quality;
to do this, the soil best suited for the purpose must be
selected, the best plants, the perfect maturity of the fruit
must be attended to, and the most favorable time for the
vintage.  From chemistry, he must learn the elements of
wine, and the manner to direct the fermentation, etc.
He must follow nature; in all his operations, she should
be his study; he should be tractable to her lessons; she
alone never deceives."  Pages 7 and 8, introduction.' In France, it is only necessary to cultivate the sheltered hill-sides, and soils granitic and calcareous, o.




164         THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
sandy, and generally the poorest, such as are not suitable forl pasture or grain."  Page 29.' The earth, the most suitable for vegetation in general,
is that composed of a mixture of flint, of clay, (alumine,)
and of lime, in such proportions as readily to imbibe
moisture, and so to retain it that it may be constantly
and insensibly evaporated by the warmth, giving enough
nourishment to the plants until a renewed rain has again
filled the reservoirs.  When there is too much aridity.,
the plants become weakened and soon die. To constitute
a good vegetative soil, it is not sufficient that barely the
top layer of earth shall be thus composed i it must be ot
good depth."  Page 197.
" In time, the good soil will wear out, become exhausted, and one cannot hope to reap a continued advantage, unless by depositing, fiom time to time, new principles of nourishment, —of oxygen, of hydrogen, and of
carbon.  These can be found in proper quantities in the
manures of animals, and decomposed vegetable matter.
One may also usefully employ certain minerals, not as
manure, but as a rectifier: for instance, fossils and marl,
which, from the effect of moisture and heat, ferment and
cause the small lumps of earth to separate, and render
the whole mass more permeable to the substances which
form the sap." Page 198.
"The nutritive principles required from  the soil, for
the cultivation of the grape, are the same as those named
as requisite for general cultivation; but when there is
not a sufficient supply of moisture, the vine will not pros.
per."  Page 219.
"The kind of earth regarded as the most suitable for




THE CULTURE OF  HE  GRAPE.                165
the cultivation of the vine varies with the climate in
which the culture of this plant is introduced.  We do
not speak  here of the superior layers of soil, -which
would make such an assertion hazardous.  Experience
has demonstrated, that, in the southerly (meridionaux)
departments, the vine flourishes in volcanic earth, in the
(freestone) grit, and in the granitic gravel, mixed with
vegetable earth and with some clay, (alumine). Towards
the centre of France, they succeed in the schistes, (slaty)
and above all in the calcareous rock, which crumbles on
exposure to the air. At the north, they prefer the coarse
gravel combined with calcareous earth.  But everywhere
you may make use of collections of earths and stones
(almost monstrous,) of all kinds, provided that the mass
be permeable to water, and retain  but little moisture.
All agree that an essential quality for a" good earth for
the vine, is, that it should possess a' mixture of quartz,
of flint, and coarse gravel. The rays of the sun penetrate these stones and furnish warmth during the day,
and distribute it to the plants by night.  This is not all:
in earths exceedingly porous, they yet serve, by the effect
of their solidity and quantity, to diminish the too rapid
evaporation of the moisture.  Besides, (finally,) it is by
the vegetables that the soil produces that we can best
judge of its quality, and of the temperature of the climate.  Wherever the cultivator shall see the peach tree
prosper naturally, he may conclude the situation is favorable for the culture of the vine.'  Page 246.*
* The mildew, the rot, and the blight, to which all grapes are subject in
the United States, more particularly the European kinds, render this re.
mark incorrect, as regards this country.




166         THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
"If the earth where you propose to plant a vineyard
is cultivated already, the best preparation for so doing is
to plant, for two or three years, the soil with vegetables,
giving the preference to such as require the most working of the land in the cultivation.  The labor necessary
in this operation, and the manures by which they are
made to thrive, prepares, lightens, and enriches it.  The
dung, in general so adverse to the vine, so prejudicial to
the quality of the fruit, incorporated into the soil in advance, can have only good effects; it has become freed
of the carbonic acid in excess, and the vegetable substances become united with the under surface of the
earth; the soil, thus prepared, is suitable for the vine in
every age, but more particularly in its infancy."  Page
251.
Remarks quoted by Dr. Lindley in the controversy relating to manures for vines:" The same reasons may be used against the system of
the vine-growers of the north, who think it advantageous
to manure their vines. By this means, indeed, they obtain larger crops, and more wine, but it is of bad quality,
it will not keep; and its smell often reminds me,, when
drank, of the disgusting substances which produced it.
Manure communicates to the vine too much nourishment.
The nutritious juice, reduced to gas, and received by the
mouths of the capillary roots, and by the  air-vessels
of the leaves, penetrates and circulates in the sap-vessels,
forms the wood of the plant, and furnishes the substance
out of which the shoots, leaves, flowers, and fruit are developed; the more abundant the nutritive matter, the
more the diameter of the vessels distends, the more rapid




THE CULTURE OF'THE GRAPE.              167
is the circulation of the sap, because the channels through
which it passes have more capacity. This causes the
sap to circulate in a less state of elaboration, the result
of which must be, that the wine is flat, insipid, and des
titute of all the principles of alcohol.  Nevertheless, the
abundant crop tGus obtained, and the brilliant vegetation,
are, after all, in some measure deceptive,  FR THEY CAN
BE BUT TRANSITORY.  In vineyards where manuring is
practised, they only manure once in ten years.  It is not
to be doubted, that the effect is very remarkable the first
three or four years after the manuring of the vines, but,
I4 the succeeding years, the plants begin to languish;   no
longer finding that abundance of nourishment to which
they have been accustomed, they suffer in consequence,
and often fall victims to the want of it. Thus a part of
the plants are lost, either by too much or too little nourishment.  But vines can receive, and it is often advantageons to give them, such manure as will make good
the poverty of the soil, its exhaustion, or what is required
otherwise for this sort of cultivation.  No manure suits
vines better than what is properly called vegetable earth,
obtained by the decomposition of plants.. Mosses, leaves,
and turf, mixed together, thrown up in great heaps, and
left for about two years to ferment, make the very best
manure of this sort."  Page 333.
These remarks follow the -above, quoted by Dr. Lindley, and may be considered essential to the proper understanding of the matter:N' Eevertheless, as it is often impossible to procure, in
sufficient quantitiies, these (decomposed vegetables,) substances, intelligent cultivators have recourse to such as




168         THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
can be had from the bottom of rivers, ponds, and ditches,
and the sweepings of the roads and streets; these are
made up in heaps, composed alternately of a layex of
these articles and a layer of old dung fiom the cow or
ox, the horse or sheep. This is left to winter in this condition; it is then spaded over, on all sides, and this is repeated often during a year; after this, it is ready to be
applied to the vines. Manures differ in quality, and it
cannot be positively said which is best for a place, unless
the quality of the earth which is to receive it is known.
A manure may be destructive to a vine in one part of a
vineyard, and yet be highly invigorating to some other
part even of the same vineyard.
"To improve a soil that is too moist, spread gravel
upon it; that from ravines is preferable, because it contains a mixture of humus, and shells, and marl, and other calcareous substances. You may also give for manure,
ashes, soot, pigeon's dung, and other powerful substances, but it is necessary that these should be for a long
time exposed to the air and reduced to poudrette. These
should be mixed with good loam, to render the effect
more durable. Where the soil is excessively wet, it will
be best to apply manure without any other mixture; in
this case, spread a handful of the substance, as you
would sow the seed broadcast on the land.
" Vegetable matter alone is sufficient to invigorate, for
many years, the vine which has been suffering in poor
soil near the top of a declivity. Thus, to manure and
improve a soil understandingly, you must be acquainted
with the effects of the different manures, and of the pro.




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE,              169
per proportion in which to apply these to the necessities
of the different kinds of earth.
" Some cultivators have employed the scrapings of
horns, others have made use of the hoofs and feet of
sheep, and others, again, of the pieces of woolen clothes.
" All these matters succeed as manures for the vine;
they contain much hydrogen and carbon, two of the chief
agents in vegetation.  Buried in the earth, their decomposition is slow, nearly insensible; but, as it is impossible to obtain these in large quantities, it is not necessary
to discuss the effect of them at large; perhaps they may
have the effect to give a peculiar taste to the wine."
Pages 335 and 337.
"; Fresh dung, the manures obtained from  the depositories for carrion, etc., and other powerful matters not
yet converted into poudrette, are not the only substances
which give a bad taste to the wine. The vine absorbs
with much vigor all vapory substances suspended in the
air." —Traite sur la Culture de la Vigne, page 340.
The soil of the celebrated vineyards which produce
the Constantia wine at the Cape of Good Hope is a decomposed sandstone.
The vineyard of Rudesheim, on the Rhine, is very
steep, and is terraced; the soil is of a dark rocky nature.
The soil of Johannisberg, on the Rhine, is argillaceous schist, with a proportion of mica, and, in one place,
is a reddish quartz. This is mixed with diluvial and alluvial deposits, in most parts. The exposure is southwest, with a slope of fifteen degrees. The grape generally cultivated near the Rhine is the (Riesling,) White
Rissling.
8




170         THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
The soil of Leistenwein and Steinwein vineyards, on
the Main, is similar, being argillaceous with calcareous
portions, especially fragments of lime. The Leistenwein
is regarded as the second finest wine of southern Gerima
ny; but, as the quantity made is very small, it is seldom
to be purchased. The grapes grown here are mostly the
White Rissling and the Traminer.
The soil of the hill of the Hermitage, where is made
the celebrated wine of this name, is variable. Dr. Bushby says the hill is of considerable height, but not of
great extent; the whole front, which looks to the south,
may contain three hundred acres, and of this, even the
middle region does not produce the finest wines.' The
gentleman, whose property we were traversing, pointed
out to me the direction in which a belt of calcareous soil
crossed the ordinary granitic soil of the mountain, and
he said it requires the grapes of these soils to be mixed,
in order to produce the finest quality of Hermitage."Janes Busihby, london.
" Between Chagny and Beaune, in France, the plain
lying to the southeast of the range of hills, which, from
the value of their produce, give the name of Cote d'Or
to the department, is extremely rich, and, to all appearance, capable of yielding golden harvests of corn, as the
hills do of wine. The greater portion of it, however,
was planted with vines on both sides of the road. Near
Chagny, it appeared lighter, with a larger admixture of
stones, and, on approaching Beaune, it was a rich brown
loam."-l bid.'" At the vineyard of Ohambertin, the soil varies ex
tremely, even in the distance of one hundred yards; that




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.              171
nearest the road is of a brown loam of sufficient consistency, but full of gravel, and, consequently, very friable.
The gravel consists of small broken pieces of the whitish
limestone, of which the hill is partly formed. At the
highest limit to which the ground has been broken up, it
is a light-colored clayish-looking soil, with a subsoil of marl
and abundance of small shells. Both of these soils effervesced strongly with an acid, but the light-colored evidently
contains a far greater proportion of lime. The soils of
Beze, another first-rate vineyard of the commune of Gevray, were exactly similar to that of the lower part of
Chambertin.~ -lbid.
Several other vineyards are described as having the
same soil.
Ay, the centre of the district which produces the
Champaigne wine, is a small town on the river Marne.
" The range of hills above the town of Ay is exposed to
the full south, except where the exposure is varied by
recesses in the range; it consequently produces wine of
the finest quality, and very superior to that of Epernay,
which is produced on hills exposed to the north. The
soil is strongly calcareous, full of small pieces of chalk
and of stones.  Near the top of the hill, the soil is more
argillaceous.'"-Ibid.' At Argenteuil, the vignerons pay the utmost attention
to their plantations; indeed, their mode of cultivation,
at least as relates to productiveness, may be regarded as
approaching to the perfection of the art.
"They apply manure very freely; but this practice,
though it swells their recolte, is thought to deteriorate the
quality of the grapes.  Poudrette is much used, which is




172         THE CULTURE OF'THE GRAPE.
neither more nor less than night-soil dried and reduced
to powder.
"Poudrette, we understand, was first recommended
by the celebrated Parmentier, about thirty years ago,
(1790,) as a top dressing for various field crops.' Frequently, it is formed into a compost with the
weeds and refuse of the garden, and some marly loam,
or light mould; the poudrette being spread on the compost bed, in the proportion of half an inch to six inches
of weeds and earth. Such compost is considered as well
adapted for stimulating the roots of fruit trees, especially
cherries, figs, and vines.'The offensive smell is, to a considerable degree, removed by the addition of quicklime." —HLorticultural
T2our., Edinbugrgh, 1823.
From  Abercrombie's Practical Gardener.  London,
1823.' Although vines will succeed as plants in any common garden earth, it is advisable to allot them a dryish,
warm, mellow, unexhausted soil, rich in good loam, or
improved with suitable manure, to the depth of three or
four feet. A  dry bottom  is requisite to keep the fruit
from degenerating in flavor."
"Once a week, drainings of the dunghill may be
mixed with water, and applied to the roots when the
grapes are swelling," says Abercrombie.  And again:
"The vine out of doors would not so often make poor
returns in fruit, were the soil kept warm and rich by an
annual dressing when the plant is at rest.  Among the
manures found of great avail in supporting or recovering
the fertility of vines, may be reckoned rabbit's dung, duck's




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.               173
dung, sheep's dung, sheep's urine, drainings of a common
dunghill, vegetable mould, a compost in which warm,
dry elements rather preponderate, a little hogls blood, or
bullock's blood, or the general offal of a slaughter-house,
with a qualifying portion of lime, or shell marl, fresh
loam, and sharp sand. Whether it be a fluid manure,
or part of the old earth be dug out and a compost substituted, the application is chiefly to be made at the extremity of the roots. The roots of old plants, in a yield-,ing soil, are sometimes found to have traveled to a wonderful distance in quest of nourishment."
In preparing the border for forcing, this author says
the materials and proportions should be of'"top spit
sandy loam from an upland pasture, one third part; unexhausted brown loam  from a garden, one fourth part;
scrapings of roads, free from  clay, and repaired with
gravel or slate, one sixth part; vegetable mould, or old
tan reduced to earth, or old stable manure, one sixth
part; shell marl, or mild lime, one twelfth part.  From
the time the buds rise, until the fruit is set, manure the
border, once in ten days, with the drainings of the dunghill, poured over the roots of the plants.
" The border should be kept, at all times, clear from
weeds.  When it is necessary to recruit the soil, work in
such a compost as has been described, or similar. The
dung out of a cow-house, perfectly rotted, is a fine manure for the vine."
Forsyth, in his book on the Culture of Fruit Trees,
says that " the best manure for vines is a mixture of vegetable mould, rotten dung, and fresh loam turf; and all
this should be thrown in a heap, and frequently turned,




174         THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
for a year or two, before it is used." Page 219. London, 1824.
The following I found in London's M/agazine, vol. 17th,
page 646; it is there credited to the Gardener's Chronicle, vol 1st, page 413:" Mr. Hayward's manure for grapes. I have tried a
great variety of compounds as food, and have found that
one quart of cider, or cider grounds, added to two gallons of water, brings a grape vine to a more perfect prolific state than anything else  This mixture must be
supplied in such quantity as will saturate the earth like
water to the depth of the roots, and all over the surface
occupied by the roots.  It must only be given once in
the year; and, if repeated the second year, its good
effects will be sustained for several years afterwards
without farther supplies."
floare.- ~The natural soil which is most congenial to
the growth of the vine, etc., is a rich, light, sandy loam,
not more than eighteen inches in depth, on a dry bottom of gravel, stones, or rocks.
" Of those manures that may be mixed with the soil
when the border is first made, the best are such as possess the two valuable qualities of affording to the roots
of the vine the highest degree of nourishm?.ent, combined
with the greatest permnacneny of duration.  Of this description are bones, horns and hoofs of cattle, bone dust,
the entire carcasses of animals, cuttings of leather,
woolen rags, feathers, and hair.  Bones, however, on account of their prolonged effect, are by far the most valuable manure that can be deposited in a vine border.
" In the year 1826, several vines were planted. In




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.              175
the following vear, a quantity of bones, the largest of
which was the blade bone of a calf, was digged into the
border, five or six feet from the wall.
"In the spring of 1833, the border was opened, in
order to ascertain to what extent the roots of the vine
were nourished by these bones.  It was found that the
roots had branched  out in every  possible  direction
amongst them, the surfaces of which were completely
covered with their fibres.
1 Bone dust is a very powerful manure, producing iminediate effect, and is lasting in its duration.
" Liquid manure is highly valuable, where immediate
effect is required.  The most powerful are urine, sootwater, blood, the drainings of dungheaps, and soap
suds. The first of these, on account of its saline qualities, is better calculated to promote the fertility of the
vine than any other liquid.
" For the purpose of top-dressing, and to be forked
into the border when requisite, may be named, as highly
enriching manures, night-soil, fish, stable manure, and
the excrerents of every description of birds and animals.  It is necessary further to observe, with respect to
the application of liquid manures and top dressings, that
care must be taken not to make the surface of the border
too rich."
After the vine has become established, Mr. Hoare
says: "The winter being the proper time to manure
the border, let it now be lightly forked up, and a good
coating of manure laid over it about six inches deep,
wlich will answer the two-fold purpose of enriching the
border, and protecting the roots of the vine."




176         THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
According to Mr. Hoare, grapes may be grown in perfection in England, and. to a great extent (by following
his directions,) on walls and espaliers, and he gives a
scale of measurement of the vine, by which to regulate
the crop, as follows: A vine of three inches in circum-'erence may bear five pounds; a vine of three and a half
inches in circumference may bear ten pounds; and advancing in this ratio to ten inches circumference, and, for every
half inch of increase, allowing the vine to ripen five
pounds additional of fruit, so that the highest number
will give a yield of seventy-five pounds. If this can beh
done, and he tells us that he gives the result of his practice, it would seem that the question was settled.  But it
appears that there are those holding different opinions.
In the Gardeners' Chronicle of June 10th, 1847, is the
following, on an article relative to planting the banks of
railways with vines:'We entertain no doubt that some of the traditions
current in this country, as to vineyards having once been
profitable, are true, although others are apocryphal; but
we altogether disbelieve the statement that the wines of
England were ever of good, or even tolerable, quality.
" Upon all such points, we have to depend upon assertions, whose value cannot now be determined, and a
question like that of vineyard cultivation in England
must be decided upon better grounds than tradition, and
th'e reports of persons whose taste was wholly unlike our
own.  The fact evidently is, that, where nations had very
bad internal communications, and slow  nd d d fficult comnmercial relations, it was necessary that objects of general consumption should be made in tevcry i  )ssllkde place:




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.              177
especially a commodity so heavy, bulky, and difficult of
transport as wine. This, we conceive, quite accounts for
the numerous attempts that were formerly made to obtain wine in the north of Europe, and for what is called
the success attending such endeavors.  But, as communications between country and country became easy, such
a necessity ceased to exist; people's taste, moreover, became refined, and, by degrees, all such cultivation as that
of the vine, in English vineyards, was discontinued.  If
this was not the reason of vineyards being abandoned,
wve are at a loss to know what it could have been. It
would hardly have been abandoned, if profitable; and,
if it was unprofitable formerly, how much more so must
it be at the present day.
6 But it is alleged, that an' improved climate, greater
skill in cultivation, and general advancement in science:,
would cause vines to be grown to higher perfection in
England now  than formerly.  May be; not that we
know any thing of the alleged improvement in climate.
No one can have greater respect for the skill of English
gardeners than we have; we are perfectly ready to recognize the claims of science, and the advantages that
have attended its application to rural economy; but
there are things which neither horticultural skill nor science can effect: and among them is included an exercise
of control over seasons.  We cannot raise the temperature of our summer the minutest fraction of a degree;
we cannot increase the heating power of the solar rays 
we cannot prolong their period of action; in short, we
cannot give Kent the climate even of Normandy. And, —,




178         THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
yet we must do all these things if we would grow wine
as good as even that of the environs of Paris.
"The fact is, that the vine cannot be profitably cultivated in vineyards beyond 50~ north latitude, and only
so high as that latitude in very favorable inland situations.
" Great Britain is, therefore, wholly beyond its limits.
in saying this, we by no means intend to assert that, by
the selection of such inferior but early varieties as the
Black Cluster, or Miller's Burgundy, (not Black Muscadine,) grapes cannot sometimes be imperfectly ripened in
vineyards in England; no doubt they sometimes will
come to that sort of maturity which persons, who do not
distinguish correctly between sugar and vinegar, are accustomed to call ripeness; as for example last year. But
we have no hesitation in expressing a decided opinion
that to expect a profit from ripe grapes in English vineyards, on even an average of years, is hopeless." —Gardeners' Chronicle, 1847, page 403.
Trowell, Chapter on the Vine, page 91, says: " They
require a light sandy ground to be planted in; if it is a
little stony, it will thrive in it, if lying to the south, or
southeast, and if the bottom is chalky or gravelly under
the surface, where no springs are. It cannot be well too
hot or dry, if it is not addicted to heath; but if brambles, it is a good sign.  Where that shrub grows, such a
ground is the most proper for a vineyard; and the declivitv of a hill still better."
Thus much for the situation and soil in the natural
state.  He then goes on to say: "If your land is too
rich, it only permits the roots to shoot out the branches




THE CULTURE OF rTHE GRAPE.             179
and leaves, but less fruit  the barren does not admit the
roots to be so luxuriant, neither do they enter the earth
so deep, by which means they spread more towards the
surface, and so give the tender fibrous roots the benefit of
receiving the natural sweet and gentle shlowers, dews,
&c., which imparts a pregnancy to this plant, and do recei ve the cherishing warmth of the sun, and is more impregnated with the volatile salts, which is drunk by the delicate
pores and apertures of the latent roots, whilst those
bDuried deeper are deprived of that benefit, and grow
only fertile in watery and insipid leaves without fruit,
and produces long and unbearing branches, whose joints
admit of no produce; whereas the other will produce
fruitful joints, being very short, like to a joint of a man's
finger, which are the bearing branches.  Now when you
plant your vineyard, let it be east and west, for the other
position, north and south, is not so good.
" When you plant, dig your trench near a foot deep,
and about a yard asunder, for the more ease of going between them to do the necessary work that is required in
the several seasons of the year; then set your plants, —
let them be about a cubit long, having three or four eyes
of the young wood on them; then plant them in the bottom  of the trench, a little sloping; when done, cover
them three or four inches with the mould; then level
your ridges, that your sets may just appear above the
surface; plant your sets something more than two feet
from each other; after this, strew some of the manure
along the ridges, not too thick, which will preserve them.
Keep them weeded and hoed; when they begin to shoot,
then set your props, of what wood you please, of about




180         THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
four feet in length, and the thickness of a common
broomstick, placed on the north side of the plant."
After giving directions for pruning, etc., for the first
three years, he says, at the fourth year, your "plants
may be expected to bear a quantity of fruit; then you
may leave three or four shoots to each plant, with about
four eyes; but, when older, you may leave six or more
from a strong root.
"Now when your vineyards want amendment, as all
lands will, strew some of the manure (liveings,) on the
ridges and about the ground between the rows, in the
month of November.  Use no more than sixteen bushels
of the manure to an acre.'N ow  as to vines planted against a wall, pale, or
house, you may keep them to what height you please, as
the place will permit, etc. When your vine that is
planted against your walls, house, &c., wants refreshment, you may water it with about two quarts of the
lixivium of the manure, when the vine begins to put forth;
you may do the same about midsummer, when the grapes
are small; all which invigorates the roots of your vines,
and makes them yield a much greater plenty of fruit."New Treatise of Gardening, by Samuel Trowell. London, 1739.
The varieties Trowell mentions as cultivated in the
vineyard are Burgundy, Champaigne, and Frontiniack,
what we now know, probably, as the small black grapes
like Miller's Burgundy, White Sweetwater, and Frontignan.
The manure spoken of here is described as a very concentrated substance, equal in strength to guano.




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.               181
"When a vine is to be first established on any spot
where none grew before, the first thing is to prepare the
ground for planting.  In steep places, where the soil
might be carried away by rains in winter, or spring, terraces are formed by building massive stone walls along
the slope, and levelling the soil behind them.  The walls
serve to reflect the heat, and form a shelter to the vine
below.  Thus a whole hill is sometimes covered with terraces from top to bottom, and there the wine is generally good, if the exposure is favorable. Limestone, gravel,
Or coarse sand, with a small mixture of clay, formns a
good soil for a vine; vegetable substances alone should
be used to enrich it, such as the leaves and tendrils of
the vine, the residue of the grape when pressed, and,
failing these, the leaves of trees collected when green
and formed into a compost with earth.  The ground
should be well trenched, if it will admit of it, or loosened with the mattock and pickaxe.  The different parts of
the soil should be intimately mixed, keeping some fine
soil at top to set the plants in. When the ground is pre.
pared, holes are dug in rows four or five feet wide, at the
same distance from each other, so as to alternate; some
of the finest of the soil is put into each hole, and the
vine plants, which have been rooted in a nursery, or else
simple cuttings, are carefully inserted, pressing the
mould round the roots, and levelling the earth.  Rooted
plants will bear the second or third year, but cuttings
take a much longer time.  The usual instrument of tillage in stony and rocky soils is a two-pronged fork fixed
in a short handle, at an angle less than a right angle with
the prongs, which are a foot lonlg, and very strong, like




182         THF CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
a double pickaxe.  This is struck into the ground, and
then drawn towards the workman, while the handle is
lifted, which acts as a lever in raising the soil.  The next
year, it is usual to prune the young vine down to one, or,
at most, two eyes or buds; but some experienced vinedressers recommend deferring this operation to the second
year, by which, although the vine will not be so forward
in fruiting, it will be much strengthened, andt fully repay
the apparent loss of time in the end.  In the third year,
the vine is trained; that is, the shoots are tied to upright
stakes planted at each root, or they are laid in an archl
and tied from one root to another along the ground.*
" When vineyards are established in the plains, where,
sometimes, as those of Medoc, they produce very good
wine, the intervals between the plants can be stirred by
the plough, although forking and  digging by hand is
more common; hoeing is as necessary in a vineyard to
destroy weeds, as it is in a field of turnips, or any other
crop sown in rows.  The pruning of a vine in bearing,
the object of which is to produce much fiuit without
weakening the plant, can only be learnt by experience
and practice; much of the success of a vineyard depends
on this operation. In the best vineyards, no manure is
used, except that which we mentioned before, of leaves
and tendrils; but some soils require to be recruited, and,
without manure, would produce little or no wine.  In
this case, there is no alternative, and composts must be
formned, as is done in common cultivation, with animal
and vegetable substances mixed and decomposed.  Horse
* This mode of training is by no means universal, but is commonl i
France, and in the vicinity of the Rhino.




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAFE.                183
dung should be avoided, if possible;  cow dung is cools
er and more nearly of a vegetable nature; this should
be mixed with as much virgin earth from  pastures and
meadows as can be procured, and laid in small heaps.in
the intervals between the rows.  It may be left a little
while, if it has any rank smell, and then forked in round
the roots; the more it is decomposed the better.  Many
a vineyard has lost its reputation  after having been
abundantly manured.  The Johannisbergh was much reduced in value, aftei having been dunged, while in the
possession of General Kellerman. After a certain time,
which differs in different situations, the vine becomes less
productive from the exhaustion of the soil, as is the case
when the same crops are repeatedly sown in the same
ground; this depends on the depth of the soil.  All perennial plants shoot out their roots farther and farther
-every year in search of fresh earth, and it is by this
means that trees flourish for a long time on the same
spot; but if the roots are prevented from  spreading, or
the plants being too crowded, their roots interfere, a diminution of vigor is the consequence. So it is with the
vine. In this case, the remedy is the same as for land
bearing corn. A rest is necessary, together with the addition of such manure as shall restore the lost fertility."
-Penny Cyclopcedia.
The superior quality  of wines from  celebrated vineyards, where, it is said, no manure is ever used, is, in
some measure, owing to the limiting the amount of fruit
* If the soil is stiff, horse dung is more suitable than cow, and, when old
and decayed, is no more heating.




184         THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
which a vine is allowed to mature, and to the great care
bestowed in the cultivation,-as pruning, and keeping
the soil constantly worked and loose, and in harvesting
the grapes, being careful not to gather any but what are
perfectly ripe, and never allowing any defective berries
to be put in the press (which, in common wine-making,
usually receives but little attention, all, sound and defective, often going into the press together). At Johannisbergh, the vineyard is surrounded by a stone wall ten feet
high, thus promoting the ripening of the fruit.' Some local influences produce effects which are alike
inexplicable and inimitable.  These, though generally
attributed to the soil, are not always or solely owing to
its composition.and qualities.  In some instances, the
soil is the main cause of difference, as seen in the Constantia of the Cape.  The climate there is most favorable
to the growth of the vine; yet, in one small space only,
is a tolerable wine produced; the two contiguous farms
of the great and little Constantia yielding, the former
the red sweet wine, the latter the White Constantia: the
soil on which they grow  is decomposed sandstone."Penny (yclopcedia.
"The Montillado, of Spain, is the produce of a white
soil, containing seventy per cent. of carbonate of lime,
with alumina, silica, and a little magnesia, while the
Mandanilla is the produce of the red and sandy earths;
yet tie wines do not greatly differ in taste or flavor.
More importance is attached to the soil than it deserves;
its physical properties are of more importance than its
chemical.  Chaptal was clearly of this opinion, for lih




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.               185
maintains that, provided it is porous, free, and light, its
component parts are of little consequence.
" Where some peculiar strong-smelling substance exists il the soil, an odor is communicated to the wine
which renders it unpleasant.  This is the case when
stinkstein (a variety of sub-carbonate of lime, called
pierre puante,) is present. Even wine tainted with this,
though at first repulsive, is ultimately relished.  The
vine-growers of France and Portugal have so strong an
aversion to manuring the vines, from  the notion that it
deteriorates the flavor of the wine, that, in the latter
country, at least in the port-yielding district of the Alto
Douro, the use of manure is forbidden by law. This
seems to be a prejudice, for the German cultivators manure the vines very freely, and no wines are more esteemed for bouquet than those of the Rhine; and Browner justifies the practice, not only with fresh cow dung,
but with pieces of woolen cloth steeped in liquid manure
and dried, which is found. greatly to augment the produce.  Professor Rau bears testimony to  its utility.
Even the proprietors of the vineyards near Bourdeaux,
which produce the highly-prized clarets, employ manure
once every four or five years.  But the same vines will
yield a wine having very different qualities, at least as
to flavor and perfume, in different seasons.
" The color of any wine is not dependent on the color
of the grape from which it is prepared.  Champaigne is
the produce of a red grape. The coloring principle resides entirely in the skin, except in the Tentilla, (the
French Teinturier, or l'Alicant,) which is entirely penetrated by the coloring principle.' —.bid.




186         THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
Dr. Bushby says that in Spain they vary, as in other
countries, in the practice of manuring vines. At a vineyard in the environs of Xeres, he says:  "There was a
dunghill of fresh horse dung collected outside the vineyard, and though we were uncertain whether we understood each other's meaning, we supposed him to say that
they manured each plant annually."  At another, he
says:  "The vines are regularly manured with any kind
of dung, in general, strong stable dung; not every year,
because, said the vinador who accompanied us, they
could not procure it." At some vineyards, he makes no
mention of the practice at all; at some, they manure
once in four or five years, and say that is often enough.
In France, Dr. Bushby states the same general practice; at some vineyards, he was told that they never
manured the vines; at others, for instance, under date
of MVontpelier, he says: A" Notwithstanding the apparent
richness of the soil, I observed them everywhere digging
in large quantities of dung, and& this, as well as the mode
of pruning, indicated that they  were more anxious
for the quantity, than the quality, of the produce. The
wines of this district are almost universally converted
into brandy."
All the small proprietors manure their vines with
strong stable dung; they make no distinction, using that
of horses and that of cows.
It would appear that the question, Are vineyards manured? might be put to rest as an established fact that
they are.  Unquestionably, there are places where nothing but loam and vegetable substances are used for
this purpose.  But, from the observations of travellers,




TIE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.              187
and the writings of agriculturists, and from  my own observation, I have no doubt of the fact.  In many of the
grape countries of Europe, manure is so valuable, that,
by the road sides, and in the villages, women and children are frequently on the lookout for the droppings from
the post and other horses that may be passing by. Many
a time have I seen eight or ten women, scrabbling for
this purpose, come very near a pitched battle.  In Switzerland, and parts of Germany, as well as in some parts
oi France, also, the farmers have, next the road, in front
of their houses, a large hole, or tank, dug in the earth,
into which is thrown the manure and all the refuse matter of every kind, solid and liquid; the solid matter is
heaped up in the middle; the rainwater is led into this
hole from the vicinity, and this liquid is carried, by women, in large buckets strapped to their backs, and
spread broadcast over the land.  This I have seen applied in wet weather, not only to grass land, but to vineyards and other crops,-a practice more beneficial to the
land, than agreeable to the traveller.
A story of a grape grower, who had become so poor
that he could give but little manure to his vineyard, has
been circulated within a few years, and is often referred
to, verbally, as proof of the uselessness of the practice.
The account went on to say, that, finally, having no manure at all, as the yield of the vineyard was less and less,
from the constantly diminished quantity of manure given
to the vines, and he becoming poorer and poorer in consequence, being almost in despair at the prospect of star
vation for himself and family, the thought occurred to
him that the trimmings of the vines might be of service:




188          THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
accordingly, the young shoots and leaves were cut int_
pieces and dug into the earth.  The result of this application was a fine yield of fruit. I do not question the
correctness of this story: it is not improbable.  But, in
my estimation, it is proof of the correctness of some of
my statements regarding manures, and is evidence of
the importance of rich soil, and, at the same time, is
admitting the fact of the practice of manuring vineyards, for it was the deficiency of the manure which
caused  this vineyard to give fruit in a less quantity,
when it had been accustomed to this annual stimulant.
According to the story, the vines, at last, almost ceased
to beat fruit; as this occurred the year previous to the
manurling the land with the trimmings of the grape, it
is not unreasonable to suppose that, by this cessation, the
plants were strengthened, and enabled, the coming spring,
to show a good crop; and, having been kept without
any stimulant the year previous, and but little, if any, the
year before that, this application, at midsummer, just at
the moment when the juices being washed to the roots
by the rains at this most suitable time, would have the
most beneficial effect.  It is, unquestionably, evidence of
the value of the trimmings of the vine, but. also, at the
same time, of the value of manures.
If I were about to locate a vineyard, a good loam
should be sought; one that is readily worked, and made
permeable to the effects of sun and air.  If it were of a
clayey nature, the incorporating of a good proportion of
shells, old lime rubbish and bricks, bones, and charcoal
screenings would improve it, using a11, or only part of
the substances, as they are more or less difficult to ob



THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.              189
tain. If it is intended to form a vineyard on a gravelly
hill, or other spot with such soil, I would use, of these,
bones and charcoal, and as much loam from an old pasture, which had been enriched for years by the droppings
of sheep and cattle, as could be obtained. If none of
the articles above named, for the purpose of keeping the
earth loose, can be had, other, the best substitute, must
be used; vegetable mould, leaves, straw, shavings, and
chips of wood, &c., are suitable.
With regard to manures for enriching the land, I
would have a compost heap prepared, into which should
be incorporated, with reference to the ease of obtaining
them, any and every article of animal or vegetable matter capable of decomposition.  In applying them  to the
land, the condition of the soil must be taken into consideration, giving more or less according to its richness,
or the reverse. The purpose for which the grapes are to
be grown must be considered; if for dessert more nourishment will be required; if for wine, a less quantity
will answer.
After a vineyard has become established, (which will
be in five years, according to Chaptal,) if manures are
scarce, they may be more economically used by spreading and digging them in, when new; but it is necessary
to be cautious in applying new and raw manures to all
fruit-bearing plants; inexperienced persons should never
apply any but manures from the compost heap, or that
have been meliorated by age. If guano is to be used, it
is safer to do so by forming a mixture with this and vegetable mould, or loam.  As a liquid manure, it is serviceable, using four pounds, at most, to a barrel of water.




190         THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
The grape vine requires from four to six months, according to the kinds, to perfect its fruit. (See August
Muscat.) Where the season is free from  severe frosts
this length of time, and there are no other obstacles, as
mildew, blight, &c., the vine may be cultivated. In hot
climates, near the equator, there is too much rain; and,
were it not for this trouble, it is not likely the vine would
succeed, as it requires a season of rest, and enough of
cold to cause the leaves to fall.' The same latitude does not always allow the grape
to ripen its fruit in an equal degree of perfection. The
south of England has the same latitude with some of the
vineyards on and near the Rhine which give good wine;
but the greater humidity and obscuration of the sun prevent the ripening of the fruit, and the observations of
Dr. Daubeny have proved that the ripening of fruits
depends more on the illuminating rays than on the calorific or chemical rays."
Planting the VTines.-If rooted vines are to be planted
in the vineyard, this operation may be performed at the
most convenient time after the fall of the leaf, and the
ground is in a good working condition. It should be
done with care, spreading the roots cautiously out. If
scions of the vine are to be planted, and where the
frosts are not very severe, they may be put, immediately
on cutting, into the earth where they are to remain.  If
it is considered necessary to guard them, during the
winter, from  the frost, they should then be put into
boxes with sand or coarse earth, and kept in a cool place,
just above the freezing point, and then plant them out as
early in the spring as possible.




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.               191
The system of.Pruning and Training the American
varieties of the Grape, in gardens, on houses, and in
vineyards,-The American varieties of the grape require
very  different summer treatment from  the European
kinds.  The system of training them which I should recommend as the best, is the one Speechly advises for
espa]iers.  It is having eight upright canes permanently
established, instead of one, as advised by myself, for the
grapery.
The vine is to be established in this form, by the same
process as Mr. Ioare gives for his, (see Hoare's plan,)
and is, in fact, restoring this to its original and most judicious system.  After it has once become established,
the fall or winter pruning will only be to cut back the pre,
sent year's wood to the spur, leaving one or two eyes, as
you may think best.
This plan is illustrated by a view of some vines trained
as above described, and represented as in full growth in
summer.  The only pruning recommended for the summer, is to stop the leading, or any other shout that may
be growing too strong, and thereby weakening the growth
of the lower limbs.  In August or September, stop the
shoots by cutting or pinching off their ends.  The foliage
is liable to be injured by blight in some sections of the
country; as a remnedy for this evil, promote a good stock
as a reserve.  After the fruit is set, and is as large as
peas, it will be time to tie the shoots into the trellis.  In
the view, it will be observed that this has upright pieces
three feet apart; the shoots from  the spurs can be secured to these, or lighter supports may be placed half.
way between the  ifor this purpose.




192         THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
A vine should be six or eight years old before it be allowed to cover so much wall as represented in the cut.
The first year of bearing, these upright shoots may be
pruned to about six feet, permitting them  to extend
themselves two feet every year, until the wall is covered.
If the spurs are too close together, some of them must
be pruned out, so that every spur and shoot shall have
ample room. The shoot on the top spur, when the wall
is full, may be led along the top of the trellis till it has
grown five or six feet, when it can be pruned back to
about three feet, leaving the lateral to grow, which can
be stopped, if it grows too strong, in two or three weeks;
if not, let it grow till the shoots are stopped in September. In the winter pruning, this must be cut back, as
are the other shoots, to the one or two eyes.
This trellis is made with three horizontal pieces of
boards, two inches wide by one and a quarter thick.
The first one is fifteen inches from the ground, the second
in the middle, and the third near the roof; these are secured firmly, fourteen inches from the house, by board
cleats, quite stout, which are nailed to the trellis and
house.  On these horizontal pieces are nailed the upright ones; they should be one inch thick by two inches
wide, eight of them  to a vine; the distance between
them should be three feet from centre to centre. The
lower, or horizontal limbs of the vine, must be trained
to the lower horizontal strip, and the upright branches
trained one to each upright piece, and well secured by
tying. (See cut.)
R. T. Underhill, M.D., of the city of New York, has
a vineyard on the Hudson, where he raises large quan



THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.              193
tities of the Isabella and Catawba for the table, which
are sent to the New York market for sale.
January l1th, 1842.-This gentleman wrote an account of his vineyard, for the " Orchardist's Companion,"
in which he states, " that he has been, for more than ten
years, extensively engaged in the cultivation of some of
our native grapes."  At this time he considered the Isa.
bella and Catawba the preferable kinds for cultivation.
Under date of February 22d, 1848, he writes me, that he
is still of this opinion, and " that he is experimenting
with some other varieties, but, at present, I am not prepared to give any native vine I have ever tried, a prefer
ence over them. I have twenty acres of these grapes
under successful cultivation, and am making preparation
for putting out four acres nore, the coming spring.  I
plant on the side of hills and level surfaces; either answer equally well in this climate.*  The mildew, which
was, at a former period, troublesome, has, with the generally improved character and quality of the fruit, disappeared. They do not suffer from the rot, save in confined situations, during very warm, rainy seasons. My
Isabella grapes, which have improved so much in quality by cultivation, during the past twelve years, mature
earlier, and are far less subject to injury from climate or
other causes, than formerly. Indeed, an Isabella grape
vineyard properly planted, with acclimated vines, and
cultivated as they should be, will, in this climate, give a
more certain annual crop than Indian corn."
In the communication to the above publication, I find
* Hudson River, State of New York,
9




194         THE CULTURE OF DHE GRAPE.
Dr. Underhill has more fully expressed his opinion as to
the improvement in the quality of the Isabella and Catawba, which were growing in the wild state about forty
years since, (time of writing 1842.)  I-e says, "the
quality of my fruit has changed very much within a few
years; the clusters and berries are much larger and
sweeter, the skin thinner, and the pulp aucs nearly discap
peared. But I do not wish to be understood as conveying the idea that others, having a suitable situation, and
good vines, with properly directed efforts in planting,
pruning, &c., cannot succeed in raising as fine fruit as
grows upon Croton Point."
The native grapes of Massachusetts do not improve by
cultivation upon removal to the garden; the bunch and
berry can be enlarged, but the strong foxy flavor still remains, which renders them unsuited for the dessert.
The improvement in the quality of the Isabella and
Catawba, spoken of by Dr. Underhill, under his cultivation, is, no doubt, owing to suitable soil and judicious
cropping.  In its wild state, this fruit would be taxed to
its utmost, in its efforts to mature the abundant crop
which it naturally produces; consequentlyj the fruit
would be small, and the flavor deficient.
Under cultivation, one quarter of the fruit which the
vine would set, is as much as it would be allowed to mature. This would enlarge the bunch and the berry, and
hasten the period of maturation, and improve the flavor.
I believe it is generally admitted to be the case, with all
fruit trees, that a small or limited crop is the highest
flavored.
The summer of 1847 was an unpropitious one for




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.               195
grapes, in the open air, in Massachusetts, the fruit ripening on but very few vines.  On vines exposed to the due
south, where the soil was dry, or well drained, the fruit
ripened when the vines were judiciously pruned, and
curtailed of their over-abundance of fruit; in wet situations, it failed entirely.
The effect of a warm, dry soil, is to cause the sap to
rise, and the shoots to put forth early in the spring, and
generally influencing the early ripening of the fruit.
This fact, when acted upon, in situations where the climate is sufficiently mild, can- be made of service in
lengthening the season for this fruit; as, by planting
vines in wet situations also, you will have a succession of
fruit.
H. W. S. Cleveland, Esq., of Burlington, N. J., has a
vineyard of the Isabella, and is increasing it largely.
The following is Mr. Cleveland's account of his vineyard, furnished me for publication, at my request:
" My vineyard comprises between two and three acres,
and is situated on the south side of the Delaware River.
one mile above Burlington.. The land is level, and is a
rich mellow  loam.  The vines were planted by the
former proprietors of the farm, in 1840, and I am  told,
by a laborer, who assisted in planting them, that there
was no other preparation of the soil than deep ploughing.  Some of the vines are now ten inches in circumference at the surface of the ground. The rows of vines
are eight feet apart, and the vines sixteen feet apart in
the rows. They are trained on trellises six feet high, the
posts of which are eight feet apart, and the lowest slat
of the trellis two feet from the ground, the next four, an I




19' THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
the next six. Part of the trellis is made of lath, an inch
thick and two inches wide, and part with No. 12 wire,
The latter is decidedly best.  It costs, in the first place,
but half as much as the lath, will, no doubt, last much
longer, makes less shade, and saves much labor of tying
up the vines, as the tendrils seize upon the wires, and
save the necessity of strings. My plan of training is, to
lay in a shoot from each vine on each side, to meet the
corresponding one from the next vine, on the lower slat,
and, as the vine becomes stronger, two more in the same
way, on the next slat.. These are never cut out, and the
fruiting shoots are grown on this old wood, raising new
ones every year, and cutting out those which have borne.
I begin pruning as soon as the leaves fall, and work at it
in all mild weather, through the winter.  I have pruned,
in every week, from  twentieth  October till tenth of
March, and never have been able, with the most careful
observation, to perceive any difference in the time of
starting, or the vigor and health of the vine or fruit.
The late pruned ones are certainly more liable to bleed,
but, if the bleeding hurts them, the injury is not yet perceptible on my vines. I leave from three to five buds on
my fruiting shoots, according to their strength.  More
than half the vines in this vineyard are Isabella, the rest
are Catawba, Eisinboro, Black Madeira, Norton's Seedling, and one or two other inferior kinds, which I do not
know. The Isabella is the most certain.  The Catawba
I think the finest grape, but it is much more liable to rot
and mildew than the Isabella.  Twenty po.unds to a vine
is a fair crop for either of these.  The Elsinboro is very
highly esteemed in this vicinity.  Its size is that of?




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.              197
large pea, and the seeds are large, but its flavor is pleasant, the pulp melting, and it has less of the foxy flavor
than any of our native grapes.  The grape which I have
called the Black Madeira, I am  inclined to think, must
be the Lenoir.  A gardener, who worked for the former
owner of my farm, told me it was' Black Madeira,'but I can find no description of such a grape, and it certainly is not' Bland's Madeira,' which is but a synonyme
of the Alexander.  Downing's description of the Lenoir.
answers to the grape which I have called Black Madeira.
It ripens a week or ten days before the Isabella, and is
a sweetergrape.  Norton's Seedling is third rate with us;
it bears well, and ripens well, but is foxy and sour.
6 I planted a new vineyard last spring, (1847,) near my
old one, and on "a similar soil, though the ground has a
very gentle slope to the southwest. Six months previously, I advertised, in our village paper, for bones and
refuse animal matter of every description, which set the
boys to collecting them, and before spring I had procured
about three tons.  I had a pit prepared, in which they
were thrown, and every fresh deposit immediately covered
with old sod, of which I had collected a great quantity,
from  along fences, &c., before the ground froze. The
field where my vines were to be planted, had been in
clover the previous year, and all the second crop of the
clover had been suffered to die on the ground. As soon
as the ground would do to plough, I spread the contents
of the pit, bones, sods, &c., as evenly as possible over
the ground, breaking the skulls and largest bones with a
sledge. I then run a furrow across the field, as deep as
the plough could go, and then another plough in the




198         THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
same furrow, which threw out the sub-soil to the depth
of sixteen inches. The first plough then commenced a
second furrow, and of course turned the slice of sward,
with the bones on it, into the bottom of the first, and the
second plough then threw the sub-soil over it, and so on
till the whole field was thus trenched.  The vines were
then planted in rows, six feet apart, except that between
every third and fourth row a space of nine feet was left,
to admit a cart with manure. These vines were put but
six feet apart in the rows.
" Grafting Vines.-In December, 1843, being about
planting a quantity of foreign vines, in a green-house
which was built by the former owner of the farm, it occurred to me that I might get fruit sooner, if I could graft
upon old vines. The difficulty was in removing the old
vines. I had some Isabella vines of four years old, which
I had been obliged to remove the year before, and these
I judged best to make the attempt with. I took twelve
of them, not one of which was less than an inch in diameter, at the surface of the ground, and in taking them
from the ground I used the greatest care to preserve
every root. I first took a trowel and dug down beside
the vine, till I came to a root, and then followed it out
to its extremity, and then went to the next root, and so
on, so that I was sometimes an hour digging up a single
vine. I then planted them outside the house, carried the
stem to the inside, under ground, sawed it off two or three
inches below the surface, split the stock, and inserted two
scions in each, pressed the earth as tight as possible
about them, and so left them. Some of them, however,
were left till March before grafting, but I did not per



THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.             199
ceive any difference in their growth. As soon as the
eyes had pushed enough to be tied, I pulled out the
scion which had the weakest shoot, and trained the othel
up under the rafters. They all grew that season to the
top of the roof, fourteen feet, and were there stopped. In
the fall, there were ten of them which I judged to be
stout enough for fruit, and I cut them down to five buds
each. They bore, and ripened their fruit well, and have
continued to bear, more and more, the two seasons since.
I allowed one, the past season, to bear twenty pounds,
which was too much, and it was not well colored. The
rest bore about twelve pounds each, and ripened it well.
Two of them  made rather long-jointed wood the first
season, and were cut down to one bud in the fall, and
the next season one of the shoots fiom one of these buds
got broken off by accident, and I immediately cutoff the
stem, under ground, and grafted a second scion into the
first. This was in June. It grew perfectly well, and
has fruited for two seasons past. The kinds I engrafted
were the Black fHamnburgh, Victoria, Black Prince, and
White Sweetwater. I have been unable to perceive any
difference between the size, color, and flavor of the fruit,
friom that of the vines on their own stocks.
" The insects which breed in our light soil, are a great
trouble here. The rose-bugs attack them  while in blossom, and, unless a direct attack is made upon them, they
soon destroy a large crop of bloom. I have boys with
tin cups, with a little spirits of turpentine in them, who
go through the vineyards every morning, during the
three weeks or thereabouts, that this bug exists, collecting them into these cuns, where they are instantly killed.




200          THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
I have been troubled with a worm, which gets in the
grape when ripe, and often destroys a whole bunch, boring from one berry to another. It is a little grey maggot,
about one eighth of an inch in length. In the vineyard
formed last spring, I planted three thousand vines, all
Isabellas.  Formerly, I used to be careful in my summer
pruning, but after experiment, I was convinced that the
vines are best let alone, as the leaves got so much injured
by storms and insects, that all that are left are needed for
ripening the fruit.  I therefore train up the growing
shoots to the trellis, and as the side-shoots and stragglers
push out, so as to be, in the way, I simply trim  them
off with a pair of hedge shears.
" I have been carrying out the plan I told you of last
fall, —the covering of the ground of my vineyard with
tan, shavings, and pine leaves, and the advantages expected to be derived from it are as follows: that it will
keep the weeds from growing, and save the necessity of
ploughing; it will prevent the lower bunches of grapes
from  getting spattered with the earth, when it rains'
which has always been a serious trouble when the earth
was kept loose by ploughing; it will keep the earth cool,
and prevent an early starting of the buds, which sometimes causes serious loss from  late frosts; and, lastly I
hope it may prove, in some degree, a guard against those
insects which breed in the ground, and are most formidable enemies.
"HORACE W. S. CLEVELAND.*
" Oatlands, Burlington, 1848."
* This gentleman has been so troubled by a small green worm, which
infested the bunches of grapes, that he has nlmost civen up the cultivation
in the open ground. 1852.




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.              201
In a subsequent letter, Mr. Cleveland writes: " We
are daily fighting rose-bugs, which made their appearance on the twenty fifth May, but in that part of the
vineyard the ground of which I covered, very few are
yet to be found, though they have heretofore always been
most numerous there."'
The fruit in the above vineyard is grown for the dessert.
The amount of twenty pounds per vine, where the plants
are so wide asunder, appears to me to be a small crop for
vines seven or eight years old, of the Isabella or Catawba
varieties. It is unquestionably, a good plan to limit the
plant to this quantity when young, and no  one can
judge so well, what a vine is capable of producing, without injury, as the one having it in charge.
Culture of the Grape in Xortl/ Carolina.-The following is a condensed account of the grape culture in North
Carolina, originally written for the November number
of De Bow's Commercial Review, by Dr. Sidney Weller,
of North Carolina:
" North Carolina is ahead of all her sister states, in the
wine product, by some thousands of gallons, according
to the agricultural census of 1840; and, as far as I know,
my vineyard is the largest in this state, and, I suppose,
in the south, and perhaps the most productive; since, besides entertaining hundreds of visitors, and disposing of
quantities of grapes carried away, I made, last vintage,
forty barrels of wine.  My increase of product has been,
annually, for a few years past, about ten barrels.
" Of our native Scuppernong, the grape for the south,
I make wines that readily bring me, in different markets,
$1 to $4 per gallon, according to quality.
9.




202          THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
"Encouraged by patronage, I have, for years past,
cultivated the choicest varieties, (selected from every
part of our country,) in the nursery to be well rooted,
and ready for market; and more of the Scuppernong
than any other variety, not only as the best southern
grape, all things considered, but that it cannot be propagated, successfully, by cuttings, but by layers, or
grafting.
"' I started with a pretty large number of Scuppernong,
and other native cuttings-of the Scuppernong mostly.
The cuttings of this grape all put out in the spring, but,
as usual with them, they all died in the summer. It is
best for the American vintner to start his vineyard with
well-rooted vines, reared in the nursery, from cuttings,
or from layers. Even in grafting, it is better to begin in
the nursery, and transfer into the vineyard, after a year's
growth; this is a cornmnon method with me; though I have
a very pretty portion of vineyard acquired by searching
the woods, late in the spring, when vines are in the leaf,
and getting stocks of the Fox, and other conmmon kinds,
an inch or upwards in diameter, grafting them, wedgefashion, and then transplanting, ten feet each way. The
scions (having been kept back, in a cool place, from
sprouting,) were Weller's Halifax and Norton's Virginia
Seedling.  They are kinds I esteem next to the Scuppernong, as fiee from the propensity to rot, and in other respects good.' It is the uniform  result of long experience, that, if
grafting is effected on stocks procured or du' up from
the woods, success, with due pains-taking, will surely
follow, if done at any time from  the complete fall of




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.                203
f.etves in autumn, until late in spring, or even summer,
when the scion can be kept back from sprouting.  But if
the graft be on stocks not dug up, or stands where it
is to remain, it must be done in the fall or early part of
winter, to ensure success.  In this way, I readily changed
my foreign, and other rotting kinds, into unexceptionable
native varieties.  No clay, or any other covering of the
grafted part, is necessary in grafting grape vines even
with the ground.  All that is to be done, is to saw off
your stock and put in your scion, (with two or three buds
thereon,) wedge-fashion, as in cleft-grafting fruit trees,
and then draw earth around a few inches high, leaving
one or two buds above ground; or, where the stock is
very large, and inconvenient to split, I have made a
gimlet hole, and inserted the scion, spoil-fashion, and
then drawn the earth around.
" But, to avoid disappointment, the vintner should be
aware that more trouble and attention is required in the
grafting process, to pull off sprouts from the old stock, a,
they spring forth to rob the graft, than in the process
itself; and this is far more the case in grafting to stocks
standing in their original place, than those procured from
the woods.  To compensate for this, however, the growth
from the former is much greater than from  the latter,
viz.: eight or ten feet a season, in the one case, but
thirty feet, not uncommonly, in the other.  Grafts often
bear some fine clusters the first season of growth, and
pretty considerably the second."  Mr. Weller is of the
opinion, " that, while American vineyards far exceed
European in yield, yet they fall far short in strength of
the juice yielded, and therefore corresponding keeping




204         THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
ingredients must be used."  He is in the habit of adding' a plenty of sugar, or brandy, or both," with these ingredients. Mr. Weller makes a fine wine with grapes
which are partly unripe; this is what he says of it:
" Made, September  seventeenth, thirty-three  gallons,
composed as follows-of five bushels of White Scuppernong grapes, 7aef green ones8 two bushels of Purple
Scuppernong, two and a half bushels of common or
bunch grapes of the woods; fermented, after mashing
(with a machine of two wooden rollers,) two hours; juice
strained through folds of a woolen blanket, as it run
from the press; twenty pounds of common brown sugar
then added, and eight gallons of good apple brandy, and
turned into a new cask, fumigated with a sulphur match."
This wine " sold readily, after being racked off, for two
dollars a gallon, under the name of Weller's Scuppernong
Champaigne."  He further says of the quality:  Mlly
wine, with no other ingredient than sugar, or pure spirit,
ever added, circulated in this region, and other parts of
our country, is pronounced by the best judges to be
more unequivocally pleasant, healthful, and medicinl,
than any foreign. Persons in delicate health have found
essential benefit from its use; and, I add, that the wine
made with pure spirits, as a medicated medicine, is more
generally approved, than that made with sugar."
Mr. Weller's plan of planting and training has been,
to plant the vines, the Scuppernong, twenty feet apart,
and other kinds, ten;' to lead them up on posts, six -or
eioht feet high, and then sideways, on trellises anrl scaffolding, so that, at length, underneath the canopies, nothina is to be seen, for six or eight feet from the ground




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.                  205
but the main vine stems and supporting  posts."  He
adds:' but I now consider twenty feet too near, for the
Scuppernongs, thirty or forty being better, unless it is intended to remove every other one, before they become
too large."  HIe saves all the leaves of the vines, and
digs them  into. the vineyard, for manure.  Mr. Weller
considers this as the true American system  of training
the vine. The principle of allowing the vine to spread
and range freely, during summer, is, undoubtedly, correct, as applied to the American species, and it is what I
have recommended for many years.  But the system of
training up the vine by posts, and then spreading them
on flat frame-work, six or eight feet hig  firom the earths
is as much a European plan as the training them  to
sticks, &c.  I have seen many vineyards thus trained, in
Italy, and other countries.*
In speaking of the great size of the vine, he says:'" I
measured to-day, a Scuppernong, fourteen years old from
planting, and it covers an area whose diameter is fifty
feet.  Another runs thirty feet on scaffolding, and then
ascends an aspen tree, spreading over its branches to the
height of about forty feet; the tree full of grapes.  A
vine in the lower part of this state, near the Scuppernong Island, in the Roanoke, whence this grape and its
name originated, produces its annual yield of five barrels of wine, I am most credibly informed.
* "The vineyards are much more beautiful than the German fields of
stakes. The vines grow over a frame, higher than the head, supported,
through the whole field, on stone pillars. They interlace-and form a complete leafy screen, while the cluste's hang below."-Page 237. This was
on the Italian side of the Alps  Vie-w  A-Foot, by J. Bayard Taylor
New York, 1846.




206         TI-IE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
"The berries of this grape are very large. I have frequently measured selected ones, and fbund them to be
three and a half, and some few, four inches round.
They are more easily gatheredthan other kinds. A large
sheet, with poles fastened to two sides, is held under the
caiiopy, and a third person shakes the canopy above,
with a forked pole, and all the ripe grapes fall into the
sheet, and the green ones remain on. They are ripening
here about two months; and that period ensures successive gatherinTe8 and the most delicious of grape fruit. It
is a peculiarly southern grape; and for the south it is,
doubtless, the best grape in the world, considered in all
respects.  I learn this grape does well everywhere south
of latitude 370 N., when properly managed, and this is,
to trim enough, in the first stages of its growth, to prevent its becoming bushy, and afterwards, (say fifty years,
or no telling how long a vine will flourish,) to keep, by
scaffolding, the canopies clear underneath of all straggling or hanging down branches, six or eight feet high.
This being not done, the vines will surely fail to bear
well, and to have the fruit in perfection.
"My Halifax, I estimate next to the Scuppernong
grape. It runs or spreads to a great extent.  From my
study, I see the top of an apple tree covered with fine
large clusters, and by measurement, with a ten-foot pole,
I find the tree forty feet distant from  where the main
stem of the vine stands, to the ground, and the tree is
twenty feet high. The berry is as large as a common
bullet, and the clusters of uncommon size. It changes
its color to a bright purple, long before it ripens, and is
a good table grape.  The Norton Virginia Seedling, next




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.              207
in excellence, is a good eating grape, or for wine, as soon
as it changes to a dark purple.
" Grapes for Cultivation at the South.-Of one hundred and fifty varieties of grapes, I have not more than
about twenty I consider good and unexceptionable in all
respects, for American culture.  My foreign grapes,
after trial, I cut down as worthless, and of some, even
noted natives, I cut down all but a few, and grafted other
kinds upon their stocks.  Of the Catawba, Isabella,
ilerbemont's Madeira, and the Ohio, or Segar Box, and
others, I retained a few specimens for their fruit, when
any happened not to rot, which is about one season in
three, with me; though I see, from the Patent Office report, that the Isabella and Catawba are not so prone to
rot in the state of Ohio, and that, more northerly, they
are still less prone.  The rot is a grand difficulty at the
south, owing, I suppose, to the heat of the climate, and
the vines prone to it, are worse, in this respect, by age
This season has been uncommonly fatal to the kinds in
question. Till a few days past, we have had rain continued for two weeks; even some grapes in the woods
rotted. But, to close this essay, I will briefly report
those varieties, in my vineyards, rotting and not rotting.
The Isabella, Catawba, Herbemont's Madeira, Longworth's Ohio, Elsinburghi, Norton's Large Purple, and a
number of other kinds, pretty much all rotted, somp
others about "half.  The Vine Arbor, Somerville, my
Halifax Seedling, (from the seed of the Halifax, a most
excellent grape,) Brinkleyville, and a few others; some
few rotted on part of the vines. The kinds least prone
to rot, are Scuppernong, Weller's Halifax, Norton's Vir




208          THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
ginia Seedling, Lenoir, North  Carolina, Hunterville,
Franklin, and some other varieties, good in every respect,
and none of which rotted this season.
SIDNEY WELLER.
Brinkleyville, Halifax County, North Carolina.
It is only by such tests as the above, that the grapes
which are suitable for a certain climate, can be ascertained.  It appears that the Scuppernong is the most
valuable for the south — this is of no value whatever, at
the north, being more tender than the foreign kinds. In
Miassachusetts, thus far, the Isabella is the only kind that
has really done well in all situations; at the south, this
rots badly.
The Syrian, Portion Noir, White Nice, Muscat of
Alexandria, and Verdelho, varieties of the grape that do
not push so early in the spring as other sorts, should be
tried at the south, as well as the kinds which ripen early.
This difference may cause some of them to escape damage, from heavy rains, or other evils. The cluster grapes,
as Black July, Miller's Burgundy, Pitmiaston, and others
are more liable to suffer from the rot than the loose
growing kinds.  Training them  high, as in Italy, from
tree to tree, may be the means of preserving them from
the rot and blight. If this plan is tried, plant the vine
at a distance from the tree, so that the roots of the two
may not interfere. The vines may be trained, the two
or three first years, to a pole in the earth, and thence
carried by a cord, (or any other way that may recoinmend itself,) to the tree; thence up the trunk, and aroi,,l
the three sides, resting upon a limb, over to the sectllJ




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.             209
tree, and there secured, the fruit to be borne on the cane
between the trees; the spur-pruning of this is advised.
Another plan of training is, to let the vine run up a sin,
gle tree, and branch off among the limbs which may be
well thinned of its branches, to admit the sun and air,
and the vine can be pruned so as to be kept within reach.
" To prevent the  Rot' in Grapes.-By a Jerseyman.
Dear Sir,-You will probably call to mind a conversation between us, when I was at Newburgh, in 1846. I
laid before you an account of the disease which had then
made its appearance in our native grapes,-the Isabella
and Catawba.  It commences about the first of July, in
the form of a dark spot upon a few berries. These,
afterwards, become entirely spoiled by the disease; and
this rot spreads, from  berry to berry, till a large part of
the bunch, or, in many cases, whole bunches are entirely
spoiled by it. Wet seasons, unsuitable soil, and various
other causes have been assigned for it; but, as yet, to
my mind, no satisfactory explanation has been given.
" You advised me, at that time, to apply sulphur and
lime in the form of gypsum, or common ground plaster
of Paris; and you also advised me to use the leaves and
prunings of the vines for manure.
" This is the second season of my trying your advice;
and, as I received it with the promise of making known
the results, I accordingly send you a brief statement,
which, I think, proves that the advice was good.
" I have about twenty vines of the Isabella and Catawba grape, in a full-bearing state, trained on upright
trellises. In the month of June, (latter part,) 1846, at
the time I made the summer pruning of the vines, —




210          THE CULTURE OF THE 3RAPE.
cutting off the side shoots, two joints above the fruit, —
opened shallow trenches, say four or five inches deep, at
the roots of the vines to be pruned.  As fast as the pruning was finished, the loaves and young stems cut off,
were laid in these trenches, sprinkled with sufficient gyp —
sum  or plaster, to whiten, the foliage, (from a pint to a
quart per plant,) and the whole trodden down and buried
in the trench.
As soon as the leaves fell in the autumn, I repeated
the process,-raking up the leaves and burying them
around the roots of the vines, after dusting them  over
with plaster, as before.
"In June, 1848, the present season, I repeated the
same operation at the summer pruning.
" Now the result is as follows:
"Although the season is remarkable for the prevalence
of the rot, not a berry on any of these six vines, so
treated, is affected; the crop being, on the contrary, very
good,-the fruit large, and increasing in size. The vines,
too, are remarkably healthy and vigorous.
" On the other hand, the remaining vines, fourteen in
number, are every one affected by the rot —some of them
very badly; and, even on those least affected, ten per
cent. of the berries are destroyed by this disease.
"I cannot, therefore, escape the conviction, that the
treastment you proposed has, so far, been effectual, in preventing this disease.
"I ought to add, that the vines of my neighbors, generally, are much affected by the rot, this season, and
that I have seen no Isabellas or CataMbas, this season, that
surpass, in appearance, those on the six vines alluded to.




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.             211' The'rot' is a disease that has only appeared within
five years, in this part of the country.  At the south, I
am told, it has always existed. On the Ohio, as I gather
from Mr. Longworth's remarks, in your journal, it is
quite troublesome in the vineyards; and it appears to be
on the increase, through the country generally. A remedy for this disease, must be considered a public
benefit, and I therefore send you the above remarks, for
publication, if you deem them worthy.
"Your friend,
" A JERSEYMAN.
August, 1848."
" Remarkls.-We thank a' Jerseyman, for his account
of the, apparently, quite successful experiment.  Our
advice was based on two considerations; in the first
place, we supposed that the rot might be owing to the
want of some inorganic substance, in the soil, necessary
for the perfect maturation of the grape: and, secondly,
perhaps to the use of crude animal manures.  As sulphur
ancd lime are large constituents of those volcanic soils
abroad, where the grape thrives best, we recommended
the use of a common substance-gypsum-likely to supply them; and as the foliage and shoots of the vine are
well known to afford the most perfect food for the
growth of that plant, we recommended the use of the
prunings and fallen  leaves, buried  in the soil. for
manure.' It is worth while, now, to repeat the experiment on a
larger scale, in vineyard culture, and we, accordingly.
recommend it again to the vi:e (lessers on the Ohio,




212         THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
with a similar request for a statement, when they are
ready to'report progress.'-EDITOR OF THE IORTICULTURIST.)-  Vol. 3, p. 121.
I have never had the rot attack a grape in the open
air.  In the grapery with too much dampness, or in very
wet weather, it sometimes appears, and is easily checked
by fires, drying the air of the house. It shows itself first on
the White Frontignan, in small brown dots, very minute;
they soon spread and meet; a break in the skin next
follows; the berry socu rots, affects its leighlbor, and more
or less, or the whole of the bunch, is destroyed.  Excess
of moisture at the root will promote if not produce it.
If it is prevented by the application, as stated in the
communication above, it must be a different disease from
that I am  acquainted with.  Mr. Downing says, " sulphur and lime are large constituents of the volcanic soils
abroad, where the grape thrives best;"  but I have
always understood, that, if the weather was too wet, even
in those countries, they suffered from this evil, particularly when the wet weather came when the fruit was
ripening or ripe.
2Ind:czana Cultivation.-Mr. John Davis, of Indiana, ten
miles from  Louisville, Kentucky, in 1842, had a vineyard of seven acres, but, at that time, one and a half acres
only of it was in bearing.  The vines were planted in
rows, six feet apart and three feet from each other in the
rows. The editors of the Louisville papers say, that, in
September, the vines in bearing, presented the appearance of almost " solid walls of fruit."
Presuming that the information, from this vineyard.




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.               213
would be Naluable, as detailing the result of several
years' experience, in comparatively a new  section of
grape-growing, in this country, I addressed, the past
spring, a letter (with such queries as I thought would
procure the desired statements,) to the proprietor of the
place. The letter was received by the owner of the vineyard, Mr. Amos Goodwin, who, in the best spirit, gave
me all the desired answers.  The most of his letter is
published in his own words, as follows:"I have about eight acres in cultivation i the vines
are planted in rows, about six feet apart, and at the distance of four feet in the rows.  My system of pruning
consists simply in shortening in the wood of the past
year's growth, from  one to a dozen eyes, according to
the condition of the vine, and afterwards tying up the
new growth to the trellis, from time to time, as it may
seem to require support.  Stout stakes, about five and a
half feet high, with narrow  strips of board nailed on
them, constitute the best trellis.  I tried wire, but the
sun heated it to such an extent, that it killed the tendrils
of the vines, and frequently injured the young wood.
" My grapes are principally Catawba; I have a few
of the Isabella, but do not use them for wine.  The Catawba, as a wine grape, has, in my opinion, no equal
among grapes that can be successfully cultivated in our
climate.
"We have, occasionally, had the leaves of our vines
eaten in places, by an insect, but never to an extent sufficient to be injurious. The rot is the great enemy we
have to contend with; some seasons, twenty gallons of
wine per acre can hardly be realized from our vineyards,




214         THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
in consequence of it. I have noticed, that, whenever
wheat is injured by the rust, the grape is, to a proportionate extent, affected by the rot. They, doubtless, originate from a common cause. As to what that cause is,
great diversity of opinion exists. My observation does
not enable ne to give, with confidence, any opinion on
the subject. The young shoots, in spring, are seldom
injured by frost, except in low grounds. This fact ir
now beginning to be understood by our farmers, and the
highest ground is selected, for both vineyards and orchards.
"I have never tried any of the foreign varieties, Mr.
Longworth's experience having satisfied me, that it would
be but a waste of time and money.
" There are a considerable number of vineyards in our
county,-I cannot, of course, speak with entire accuracy,-but I think I cannot be far wrong, in estimating the
quantity of land devoted, at present, to the culture of
the grape, in this'county, at from one hundred to one
hundred and twenty acres. In this estimate, I do not
mean to include small portions grown merely for family
use, but vineyards intended for the manufacture of wine.
This quantity will, probably, be doubled in the course of
two years more. The vineyards on the hills seem to.do
much better than those immediately on the river. In
the rich, alluvial bottoms, they do not succeed well, the
fruit almost invariably rotting.
" With regard to the profit, a careful cultivator may
safely calculate on two hundred gallons of wine per acre,
one year with another; he may, with as much certainty,
calculate on selling the juice at the press, at from sixty




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.              215
to eighty cents per gallon, making the proceeds, per acre,
from one hundred and twenty to one hundred and sixty
dollars. The same labor that will cultivate twenty acres
of corn, will suffice for ten acres of grapes. The twenty
acres of corn, when gathered, may, at the best prices
and best crops, be worth two hundred and fifty dollars;
the ten acres of grapes, from  twelve hundred to sixteen
hundred dollars. This, however, cannot be expected to
last long; as vineyards increase, and they are doing so
rapidly, the price of wine must come, down; it can be
manufactured and sold at fifteen cents per bottle, and
then pay the producer better than any other crop he can
raise. The Champaigne, manufactured from the Catawba, is equal, in my judgment, to the best European brands.
I do not manufacture my own wine, but sell the juice to
the vintners."
AMOS GOODWIN.
Near Chacrlestownq,
Clark County, Indiana, 1848.
In a subsequent letter from  this gentleman, dated in
June, he says, "our grape crop looks remarkably well
this season; the most trying time, however, is yet to
come, from the middle of July to the period of ripening."
" Permit me to describe a method of grafting the
grape upon old roots, that I have never seen in print.
Cut the old root off, some two inches below the ground,
by a horizontal cut; then choose a gimlet just the size ot
the scion to be inserted, and bore from  one to three or
four holes, acciTrding to the size of the root, and insert




216         THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
the scions, first removing the loose bark; the holes
should be two or three inches in depth, and the scions
should fit accurately. I have never known them fail to
grow. Old kinds may thus be changed in two years.
If the operation is performed so late in the season, that
the root shows a disposition to bleed, grafting cement
must be used. The holes should be in the direction of
the grain of the wood. I have never known this method
fail, and I have never succeeded with any other, though
I have frequently tried both cleft and split grafting."
AMos GooDwIN.
Mr. Charles E. Grant, of Roxbury, who has produced
very beautiful Isabella grapes, informs me, that the vine
which bore them, is situated at the south of his house,
and is trained on a trellis. The soil is that thrown out
by digging for the cellar, previous to building the house:
it is a clayey loam; this was enriched by the addition of
stable manure, old leather, &c., and immediately under
where the vine was planted, about ten pounds of glue,
which had been damaged, was placed, and covered with
soil. Mr. Grant is particular in limiting the crop, cutting away, freely, the bunches, and thinning the berries
also. The spur-pruning is followed.
The following account of the vineyards in Pennsylvania was furnished me, at my request, by H. W. S. Cleveland, Esq., who obtained the information from the best
authority, one of the largest cultivators of Reading:-' On the mountains in the vicinity of Reading, Pennsylvania, the grape is extensively cultivated by the Ger



THE CULTURE OF tHE GRAPE.             217
man inhabitants. I am  told, there are ab nut one hundred and forty acres planted with vines, in that neighborhood; some of the vineyards are fifteen years old. The
soil is a red slate; limestone soils are avoided; as, they
say, the grapes on such soils are more apt to mildew,
and do not ripen so well. This, I have been assured of,
by men of much experience in vineyard culture, and it
certainly is a very important fact, if it is a fact. The
aspect is the southern side of a hill, often a very steep
mountain side. Before planting, the land is trenched,
by running three ploughs, successively, in the same furrow. The rows of vines are five feet apart, and the vines
six feet in the rows. The vines are trained to stakes, five
or six feet high, and are cut close to the surface of the
ground, raising new shoots from the stump, every year
for fruit, which are left two or three feet long, and then
cut off at the stump, after fruiting. They prune any
time between the fall of the leaf and first of March.
The only grapes cultivated, are the Isabella and Catawba. Till within a few years past, they have only used
the grapes for wine, which is universally drank by the
Germans in that vicinity, and sells readily, at wholesale,
for seventy-five cents the gallon. They calculate that
twelve pounds of grapes will make a gallon of wine, and
an average yield will give twenty barrels per acre. No
spirit or sugar is added to the liquor, which is therefore
nothing but the pure fermented juice of the grape.
Within a few years, some of the cultivators have begun
sending the grapes to Philadelphia, for the table, where
they sell them, at wholesale, for eight cents per pound.
They are packed in boxes holding one hundred pounds
10




218         THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
and upwards, with alternate layers of grape leaves, and
are sent by railroad, fifty or sixty miles."
HoRACE W. S. CLEVELAND.
Propagating  Tines for Planting.-The custom  of
planting cuttings immediately in the vineyard rows,
where, they are to remain, has been, heretofore, the practice, and is still so, in most countries; the cutting consisting of well-ripened wood of the current season, with
a small part of the old, or two years wood, the form be.
ing that of a small mallet. The wood of the vine roots
freely, and cuttings of one season, if well ripened, I
have always found to grow.  The best method of raising
vines, is by single eyes, leaving a quarter or a third of
an inch of wood on each side of the eye. This method
requires a bottom heat, to meet with good success.*
The cuttings of my vines, which are made at the autumn pruning, I usually mix with the leaves, manure,
and litter, with which the border is covered, and they,
though placed there as manure, root freely, and we are
constantly weeding them up, during summer. It is said
that the Scuppernong, and some other kinds of American grapes, do not do well from  cuttings.  With such
varieties, the process of layering must be resorted to,
and, to make the most of the cane, in this case, the shoot
to be layered, should be cut between each eye, obliquely,
two-thirds through the wood, and a piece of shell, or
glass, or hard wood, put in the cut, to prevent its closing.
Roots will be thus readily made, and the vines may be
taken off, and planted out in the fall, or early spring.
* See Mr. Roberts's directions, for this plan of growing vi os.








This drawing represents a vine after it has become established in the
grapery, and has been planted six or more years, and has been pruned
agreeably to the plan which I hlave adopted, and described, pages 21 1 to
130, inclusive.  The lateral shoots, which proceed fiom  every leat or ey e
on the current year's wood, are not represented.
Pct/e 219.
- ^\ ^   _    ^^ff  ^1t/=;~'^^^^^ ^^^^~~~~_~-~~
z^<>^\\ ^^^ 
^ ^^^,1~~~~~~~~s~~'~
^^1^^^~~~~~~~~~L
CI'
Tillsdrawig repesent a vie afer ithas bcome  stablshed  n th
g'rapery, and  as been plante  six or more yars  n    a   enpie
ageebl t  hepln  hch Ihaeadptdan    esried   ags  11t
Pa':/e —--- 219. —  - -~ ----------------




DIFFERENT SYSTEMS
OF
TRAINING AND PRUINING EXPLAINED.
HOARE's PLAN.-After planting, the vine must be cut
oack to two eyes.
The first year, if more than two shoots push, rub the
others off, and train the two shoots to the trellis. As
soon as it appears probable that no accident will happen
to the strongest of these shoots, cut out the other; this
will be about the first of July; continue to secure the
shoot to the trellis, from time to time, as it grows, pruning in the laterals, to one eye.
In November, cut the vine down again, to two eyes.
The second year, train exactly in the same manner,
and if any fruit appear, take it off.
Early in November, cut the vine down to three eyes,
thus:
The third year, train up the three shoots, and rub out
all others; in July, prune out the weakest one; stop all




220         THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
laterals as before; continue to train the other two care
fully, during the season. About the first of September,
pinch off the ends of the shoots.
In November, cut back the two shoots to seven buds
each, and prune:out, carefully, all the laterals, close to
the buds.
The fourth year, early in February, cut out of each
shoot, the first, second, fourth, fifth, and sixth buds; then
bend the two shoots carefully down, and secure them in
a horizontal position, thusai h 1I
Train  the shoots that push from the eyes, three and seveni
in the mannelr indicatecl by the dotted lines, and if more
fruit shows than is proper for the vine to bear, cut it off
after the berries have set; the same treatment of the
vine is to be pursued, during the season, as last year.
In September, stop) the top of the shoots.
In October, as soon as the fruit is gathered, cut back
the first and third shioots to as many buds as may be
deemed necessary to produce the quantity of fruit which
the vine can mature,. the next year, and the second and




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.             221
fourth shoots, to the lowermost bud, each; cut )ut the.
lateral shoots close to the buds.
The fifth year, train the two canes in the manner represented below; and the two shoots, which will push
from the spurs H, H, train also in the same way.
The vine has now assumed the form which it is permanently to retain, and it may be considered as the commencement of a system of alternately fruiting two shoots,
and of training two, at full length, for bearing wood to
fruit the followingyear; which method can be continued,
without alteration, until the vine is able to mature more
fruit, when the arms may be extended, and as many
more upright or bearing canes added as are required.
This plan may do for the Isabella, or other native
kinds; it might answer on the back trellis of a house,
but, for the roof, it would not succeed so well, as the
shoots would occupy too much space.




222             THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
It is liable to the same objections that all the long cane
systems of training are.*
The  long, or succession  mode  of pruning, is recommended by Mr. Loudon, and many others.  It is thus:
Thefirst year, one shoot only is allowed to grow, which
is cut down, at the autumn  pruning, to the second  or
third eye.
The  second  year,  two  shoots  are  encouraged, the
strongest of which  must be stopped  three or four buds
beyond the middle of the root, the weaker one after growing three or four feet.
At the fall of the leaf, the shoots are to be reduced;
* Extra.ts from a Journal of a Horticultural Tour. By a deputation of
the Caledonian Horticultural Society. Edinburgh, 1823:-'Ghent, seat of the Baron de Vrocylande.
" There are two small vineries, which did not afford us much satisfaction.
The vines are planted in front, on the outside of the house. Every year, a
new set of wood is taken into the vinery; the wood produced this year, is
trained upright, on an exterior trellis, and is, next season, laid down to a
sloping trellis, and made to yield its fruit within the house.
"The wood which has once been forced, is cut entirely out; and from
the same roots, new upright shoots are, annually, required. The shoots
which had been forced, still remained, and a bare inspection was sufficient
to satisfy any one, that they could have afforded but very few grapes.
The exterior, upright shoots, of this season, were, at the same time, in a
very backward state, and there was (sixteenth August,) little prospect of
their acquiring maturity this year."
The natural soil of the garden is represented as light and sandy; but no
mention is made of the border for the vines.
At the seat of Madame Vilain Quatorze, also, at Ghent, the same method
of forcing the grape is pursued, and the result is, sickly and weak vines.
At Brussels, also, they found similar training and pruning, and with no
better success.
This plan of training, etc., is upon the renewal system, and, where this
is adopted and contiuled for many years, the effect must be to weaken the
vine.




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.             223
the main one must be pruned back to the middle of the
roof; and the lower one to the third eye.
The third year, one leading shoot is to be trained in
from each cane, and, from  the main cane, fruit-bearing
side shoots will be produced; one bunch only on a shoot
should be retained, and the shoot stopped at one or two
eyes beyond it. No side shoots should be allowed to
grow  from the spur or cane which was cut back, the
leading shoot from which is to become a fruit-bearing
cane the next year.
In November, the shoot from the end of the fruit-bearing cane must be cut at the top of the rafters, or within
a foot of the top, and the shoot from the spur must be
pruned back to the middle of the rafter, and all the spurs
that bore the fruit must be pruned out.
Thefourth year, a crop will be produced, both in the
upper and lower part of the house, the long cane-bearing
on the upper part, and the shorter on its whole length;
a leading shoot must be trained from the short cane, and
another, a new cane, from a spur below.
In pruning, at the fall of the leaf, the long cane must
be taken entirely away, and replaced by the cane that
bore the fruit on the lower part; the spurs on this must
be cut out, as on the cane last year, and the new cane
brought up this year, must be cut back to the middle of
the rafters; a spur must be left below, to lead up a new
cane from, the next year.
By this system, you have the whole length of rafters
fruited by two canes, and a third one is to be growing for
the next year, to supply the place of the one which is to
be cut out at the fall pruning.




224             THE  CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
This is, unquestionably, the best system  of pruning,
on the long cane principle, and it is explained here by a
representation of the vine in the successive years.
caif 
c, is the vine after planting.
b, is the vi'ie cut back, at the close of the first year af growth.
c, is the vine cut back, at the close of the second year
d, is the vine as it will be, after pruning, at the end of the third year.
e, shows the vine with the first bearing cane cut out, and pruned for
fruiting the next year; every successive year, the long sboot must be clt
out, and its place supplied, as above directed.
Another system, practised  in this country  is, to train
a new  cane, every year, the  whole length of the rafter,
to fruit the successive season; the cane, which bore the
fruit, being pruned back to one eye, in November.  This
is more simple than the former plan; but an  objection
to this, and all other long cane pruning and training is,
that it requires the vine to produce  and ripen a large
crop of fruit, and  a great extent of wood  also, every
year.  The result of this plan would  be, that, in a fei'




TIHE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.             225
years, the vine would evidently be less and less vigorous,
and the new cane would be constantly growing smaller,
until the vine would not bear any fruit, when a year of
rest would be required to enable it to ripen a crop again.
By this system, you can grow very large bunches of fruit;
but, if it is true, that large bunches are not so good as
smaller ones, (which I hold to be the fact,) then there is
no advantage in this  There is no difficulty in having a
great abundance of fiuit show itself, under any judicious
pruning  the only fear is, that you will leave more on
the vine than can be ripened properly, and this risk is
increased by having very large bunches.
Another plan is, to have one long cane the length required, and to be spur-pruned, as recommended as the
best system of pruning, differing from that, however, in
the cutting of the spur clean out, at the fall pruning, and
not at one eye, as there directed.  The reason for preferring to cut at one eye is, that, at the base or crown of
the spur, are a large number of dormant eyes, which
will all, or a great many of them, push when close pruning is practised; and, where there are a great number
of vines, the trouble of rubbing out these is considerable; but when one eye on the spur pushes, it will prevent these from growing; and if, at any time, the eye,
from injury, does not push, then the dormant eyes will,
and you can retain a shoot, and when this system  of
pruning has been carried out many years, and the spur
becomes too long for convenience, or unsightly, then you
can train one of the shoots that are constantly pushing
10*




226         THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
on the bare wood of the spur, and prune back on that,
in the autumn, to one eye.
Another plan of spur-prunin-g, which is recommended
to be practised, when the object desired is to grow large
bunches, and the regularity and neatness of the vine are
not considered, is to prune the shoot at any length, cutting so as to leave a full, strong eye at the end, for fruiting; all the intervening eyes, excepting the one at the
base, are to be pruned out; this is to be grown for fruiting the next season, and is to be pruned, at the autumn
trilmming, at the prominent eye; the shoot which has
fruited, and all the back wood on the spur, should be cut
out entirely.
Still another method of spur-pruning, when the object
is large bunches, as above, is to have four or five spurs
only, on each side of the cane, fruiting, each year, the
alternate spur; the cane on every other spur is to be
pruned back to one eye, and the alternate cane to two or
three feet, and five or six bunches allowed to ripen on
each; the cane which ripened the crop the first year,
must now, at the fall pruning, be cut back to one eyes
and the cane which is to fruit the coming season, should
be pruned to two or three feet.
These are several of the most approved and generally
adopted systems of training the grape. Whatever method is used, should be persevered in for several years;
constantly changing from  one system  to another is bad,
and the result will be unsatisfactory.
If the border has been well made, and the vines have




6'I
[To, face page 226.]
a   ~ sy r  hefutngsus
b^ btesuso   hc  h  lOtSw    rwn  o  h   ebHa
[SJ ac pgeJ2.








THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.             227
never been over-cropped, and the temperature of the
house, with the thinning of the berries, and summer
pruning of the shoots, have been properly attended to,
crops of fine grapes can be had from vines pruned in
any of the methods described. The plan recommended
and adopted by myself, is considered the most simple,
and the one taxing the vine the least of any to ripen additional wood; it is easily kept within narrow limits,
giving ample room for the light to be admitted.
In the best vineyards, where the richest wines are
made, they limit the crop a plant may bear to a small
number of bunches, usually from eight to twenty-five in
number, and in weight to from ten to twenty pounds; in
some parts of France, where they plant the vines very
close, to a much smaller quantity.
At Xeres in Spain, the sherry wine district, two or
three mother branches are trained up with one spur on
each to fruit, and the vines are planted five feet apart
each way. The crop is limited.to eight or nine bunches,
weighing about fourteen or sixteen pounds.
At other vineyards in Spain, where poor wines are
made, the vine is allowed to bear twenty-five or thirty
pounds.
In the vicinity of Malaga, where the Muscat of Alexandria grape is grown for the purpose of making raisins,
they prune close to the old wood every autumn, and the
plant is kept close to the surface of the soil, which is a
rotten slate; the shoots are not tied up, but hang, or lie
upon the earth. The fruit also lies on the ground, and if
it were not so gravelly, it would rot; the average yield,
per vine, here, is from seven to fifteen pounds; this grape




228         THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
makes the best, or Muscadel. raisin. The grape from
which the Bloom raisin is made, is an inferior kind, and
the grape of commerce a still more ordinary one; these
are grown in the interior, and the vines are allowed to
ripen from ten to twenty-five pounds.
Near Perpignan, in France, the vine is trimmed at
about six inches from the ground; from the spurs, at this
height, the bearing shoots proceed, and are not support
ed at all; the close spur-pruning is followed; from three
to eight spurs are allowed on a vine, according to its age
and strength.
Near Marseilles, they sometimes prune to three eyes
on a spur, and each vine is allowed to bear from eight
to twelve bunches, or from twelve to twenty pounds.
At the vineyards that produce the fine wine called
Hermitage, the plants are only two and a half feet apart,
and are two feet high, supported with stakes five feet
long; only one branch is allowed to fruit, and this is
pruned back to from three to eight eyes, and from eight
to ten bunches is the average crop.
At the vineyards which produce the Burgundy wine,
the plants are grown yet closer together. The rows of
vines arS only two and a half feet apart, and the plants
in the rows are only twelve or fifteen inches. After the
vines have been three years planted, the space between
the rows is filled up with vines, making the distance between the plants only fifteen inches.
At the vineyards of Epernay and Ay, where the
Champaigne wine is made, the vines are, in the rows,
planted as near together as six or seven inches, and the
distance between the rows is only eight or nine.  C0




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.                  229
course, the vines are feeble, and produce but a small
quantity of fruit each; the shoots are also very small
and weak, but the vines being so close together, the general aggregate of fruit produced is large.
At the vineyards on the banks of the Rhine, the vines
are supported by stakes five or six feet long; this is the
case, generally, in the vineyard culture of the grape in
France.  The spur-pruning is usually adopted.
In Italy, also, the same system is generally employed.
In this, and other countries, I have seen the table, or flat
trellis used.-(See note to North Carolina system.)  By
the road sides, the long cane-pruning is practised in the
following manner:-A vine is trained up the trunk of a
tree, and, at the height of twelve or fifteen feet, a long
cane of the vine is led from  this tree to another, and secured; these canes, hanging in festoons, present a beautiful appearance when the fruit is in perfection.*
In the Azores, the vines are not supported by stakes;
usually, a small pile of stones encircles the plant, and the
bearing shoots lie on these.  Muscats, and other choice
kinds, which are grown expressly for the table, are generally trained on a trellis.
At Pico, where the wine exported from Fayal is made,
the vine is trained on the surface of the soil, (which is
mostly volcanic rock,) between walls composed of stone,
* "As we advanced, the houses became more Italian-like,-and the vines,
heavy with ripening grapes, hung from bough to bough, through the muloerry orchards." Page 239.
"The vines which hung from tree to tree, were almost breaking beneath
clusters as heavy and rich, as those which the children of Israel bore on
staves, fiom the Promised Land."-Page 276. Views A-Foot, by J. Bayard
Taylor. New York, 1846.




230          THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
or lava; and between these, cross-walls are frequently
interspersed, to break the force of the winds, intersect
ing the vineyards in the same form  as a window-sash.
At Madeira, a similar method is pursued.
Vines, in the open air, are more free from  mildew
when trained quite high or very low.
In villages on the continent of Europe, it is common
to see, in the principal streets, the vine trained on the
houses, above the lower windows, about twelve feet from
the ground; a great quantity of fruit is thus produced
at little expense; the roots running under the pavement
of the street.
The kinds grown are usually the small black sorts,
similar to the Early Black July, and Miller's Burgundy.
They are trained to suit the taste or convenience of the
cultivator.  The following  method is frequently met
witl:-The leading shoot, after the vine has become established, should be treated as directed in the rules for
the management of the American grape.




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.                         231
The pruning is on the short-spur system.It should be borne in mind, that the larger the crop a
/ine is allowed  to bear, the  longer will be the time required to mature the fruit, and the quality of which will
also be deteriorated in proportion to its amount.
The  native varieties of the grape, when  planted  in a
soil naturally  dry  and  suitable, will do well without a
prepared  border; but, as  a  general rule, it must be remembered that the more care there  is bestowed on the
preparation  of this, the greater will be  the  chance  of
success.
The Black Hamburgh grape, when  weli cultivated, is
a richer fruit in this climate than in that of England, and
it is necessary to test the quality of the foreign kinds
here, as the experience of European cultivators does not
always coincide with our own.t
* In the Journal of Horticultural Tour, Edinburgh, 1823, is the following:-" Grape vines.are likewise commonly trained against the walls of the
houses, in the outskirts of the town, (Rotterdam,) and we were assured
that they often prove very productive.  A long shed, extending two
hundred feet, was thickly clothed with vine branches, which were tolerably
well filled with fruit. There were, in all, six plants, which grew in the
open area, next the street; we observed both White and Black grapes; the
latter were more numerous, the Frankendale."
f Dr. Lindley, after some remarks relative to fruits of American origin,
in which he states their   utter worthlessness in England," advising his
readers not to try them, closes with this language:-" They can only be
disappointed so long as the mean of the hottest month is 64~ 40' in London,
and 80~ O' in New York."-Gardeners' Chronicle, 1848, p. 51.
By the above remarks, it would seem that Dr. Lindley attributes all this
difference in the quality of fruits, to the diminished quantity of leat;
doubtless, in this difference of heat, he means to include also the effect of
the relative proportion of diminished light from the sun, which is, in part.
the cause of this lower temperature.  But these circumstances will not always explain the causes of these differences in the goodness of fruits. FM




FLORIDA CULTURE.
THE Hon. A. G. Semmes, of Florida, has been experimenting with Grapes in  open  culture  in  that section of
the United States, and with marked success.   The reader
of the following  remarks, (extracted  from  letters to the
author of this book,) will see, that, notwithstanding  his
vineyard  has been  destroyed  by a terrific gale, enough
has been proved, to show  that the vine in  its richest varieties will repay the cultivator for his efforts.
APALACHICOL, June 29, 1850.
" On receiving the cuttings of the Josling's St. Albans,
enclosed in your letter, I found two of them alive, which
I grafted on wild stocks; they took at once, and are now
instance, the Black Hamburgh grape cannot well be surpassed in richness
of quality, when well grown, in this country.  It is generally spoken of as
a very desirable kind to cultivate, on account of its hardiness ard good
bearing qualities, and not of its being anything more than a good grape;
" though not of the very first quality," is the term often used respecting it,
in England. The Esperione is there spoken of as but little inferior to the
Hamburgh.  In Massachusetts, it is very inferior, and not worthy of a
place in the front border of the house, but on the back wall, where its
roots can be kept quite dry, the quality is better; in a position where its
roots are situated in a soil, as regards moisture, more unlike that of Enlg
1atd, it approaches more nearly to the quality of the fruit there.  If heat
caused the difference in the Hamburgh, why does it not in the Esperione?
I presume that the soil of a country has some effect, as well as the sun andl
heat, in effecting these changes.  It is not confined to any one fruit, bl)ithe change is noticed in apples, pears, grapes, peaches, cherries, anod'),t;l.
kinds.




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.              233
growing rapidly.  I will have a fine crop of fruit from
them  next year, for you will understand that a vine
grows in this latitude in one year, what they do in your
latitude in at least three years. The last season, I raised
a fine crop from  a graft of the Muscat of Alexandria
(on wild stock) one year old, one bunch weighing eight
and a half pounds, and perfect in form and flavor."
" The birds are the only evil we have in this climate
in raising foreign grapes.  They never touch a white
grape, probably waiting for them to turn black."
" Our season has been quite backward this year and
my grapes have not matured as early by a month as last
year.  During this month I have had the Early ]Muscadine and MIalaga in abundance.  The Black llamburgh,
Black St. Peters, and Muscat of Alexandria, are ripening rapidly, and will be in perfection the following
months, July and August.  My native grapes, Isabella,
Catawba, &c., ripen in August and September.  The Isabella here is a very inferior grape, and ripens very badly. The Catawba is its superior in every respect. Bland
is superior to either.  But the great southern grape is the
Scuppernong; in this latitude far superior to North
Carolina, its reputed acctive place.  A gentleman of high
character and intelligence, who cultivates the Scuppernong in Louisiana, says it is a Grecian grape, and that the
Greeks make their finest wine from it.  We never prune
it, and its yield is almost incredible; when perfectly ripe
the fruit is a very deep bronze, very sweet and with but
little pulp."
"The foreign grapes, grafted on our native stocks, do
far better than when growing on original stocks, are




234-1        THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
much more hardy, far more luxuriant, and bear better
and earlier.  The Isabella stock  will, in two years'
growth, exceed any foreign variety I have tried, in four
or five years' growth, but any foreign variety grafted
will grow as rapidly as the native.  I have foreign vines
now, grafted last February, many with five and six
branches, each branch or stem from fifteen to twenty-five
feet, and they have until December next to grow, when
foreign varieties commence dropping their leaves.  The
native varieties drop their leaves some six or eight weeks
earlier, except the Scuppernong, which continues to grow
till sometime in December."
"I train my vines on a trellis from seven to eight feet
high (of wire), but cannot follow the rigid system of
pruning recommended in European culture, and practised at the North.  Where the vines are allowed to
grow with but little pruning, a trellis is far preferable to
the arbor, for many reasons; but we have to so train our
vines, that not a ray of sunshine ever touches the fruit;
otherwise the fruit loses much of its fine flavor and is
altogether robbed of its bloom, which, if it does not preserve its flavor, at least adds to its beauty. The grapes
I raise (as an amateur) are said, by northern gentlemen
here, to be far superior to any they ever tasted from the
hot houses at the north.  There can be no climate in the
world superior to this section (West Florida) for the foreign grape.  I have tested the raising of the foreign varieties, at least for six years. and have no doubt as to the
success of' any one of ordinary intelligence undertaking
the business.  The only objection in this place and immediate neighborhood is, the soil is too sandy.  This we




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.              235
have to remedy, which we partially do. I manure altogether with bones (whole), shells, and palmetto roots, all
deposited in the ground when the vine is planted; they
will last, I believe, twenty to thirty years.  The latter article contains a great deal of potash, and it affords a fine
manure, though of course not so durable as the former.
Animal matter I never use, unless decomposed, in which
state it is very superior. There is no substance, however,
equal to bones, and the larger and fresher the better, as
they afford, by their gnradual decomposition, the very
richest and most suitable manure for the vine.  If, however, wine and not table fruit is the object, vegetable
manures should be used to the exclusion of bones and
other animal matter, and this for obvious reasons.
"Allow me to say that I have derived much satisfaction in reading your work on the grape.  The arrangement and your own remarks on the views of other writers are most judicious."
"I have, I believe, all the publications on the subject
extant, and thinking, as I do, that it is superior to any of
them, have recommended it to many of my friends."
" QUINCY, FLORIDA, Decemsber 22, 1852.
" Yours of the 5th instant has just been received, and
I reply without delay: The severe gale of 1851 destroyed my vineyard in Apalachicola.  Being located
some 150 yards from the bay, the water swept away my
dwelling, and killed many of my most valuable vines.
" The remnant I brought with me to this place, where
I removed last January.  I had some 600 vines, out of
which I have saved 20 or 30. The cuttings you sent me.




236         THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
were all growing finely, most of them having been grafted
on native stocks.  This year would have tested their
quality and adaptation to this climate; but, I regret to
say, I have lost them  all, except one of the Josling's St.
Alban's.*  So soon as I can make the necessary arrangements I shall again commence. After the most thorough trial, I am perfectly satisfied that the foreign grape
can be cultivated in this climate with success. The climate is in every respect adapted to its cultivation, and
the soil, which in this section is objectionable, (being a
heavy clay,) is very easily remedied. The ground once
properly prepared, all that is necessary to ensure success, is a judicious system of pruning and training the
vines.  The one, in this climate, is as important as the
other, and either neglected, must end in disappointment.
The rot, which is the great evil complained of by almost
every one who has undertaken the cultivation of the
vine in the Southern States, particularly in this latitude,
is to be attributed altogether to the fatal error they have
adopted in both pruning and training.  The preparation
of the soil, of course, is essential to the healthy and vigorous growth of the vine, and without these we cannot
have good fruit; but it is a great mistake made by many
writers on the subject, that certain manures, upon which
the vine feeds, and which the most of our soils are deficient in, will prevent the rot. The close pruning for
out door culture, adopted in Europe, and the Eastern
States particularly, will not answer for this climate. The
reason is very obvious.  The vine is too much exposed
* The cuttings referred to here were Hybrid Seedlings, of my own growing, and new kinds, mostly of recent introduction from Europe.




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.               237
to the intense heat of our sun; besides, on account of the
heat and duration of our summers, a vine here, under
proper culture, will, in twelve months, grow as much as
a vine in England will in four years.  And to adopt the
rigid system recommended by Mr. Hoare, would ensure
a loss of the fruit every year, and, in the end, the vine
itself  After a vine has become established, say after
the first fruit year, (if healthy,) it should never be pruned
back exceeding one half, and oftentimes not more than
one third, of that year's growth, unless it be the smaller
lateral shoots. This will secure a sufficient foliage to
protect the fruit from  the rays of the sun, which is the
rmain cause of the rot.  Unlike other fruit, it is all-important that the grape be entirely shaded at every stage
of its growth and maturity, otherwise, if it escape the
rot, it will be small, hard, and insipid.  I have known
canvass, and other artificial means, adopted to shade the
vines in this climate.  This will not answer; for although it will secure the fruit from the rot, yet the rich
flavor of the grape is impaired, if not entirely destroyed.
The natural shade and protection of the fruit is the
foliage, and the more luxuriant this is, the greater certainty of fruit of large size, and rich flavor. After several years' experience with some five hundred vines, I
have never known an instance in which these suggestions did not prove true, both in regard to the native and
foreign varieties, especially the latter, on account of their
thin skin and great delicacy.
" In training the vine, I much prefer the trellis to the
arbor. As to the kind of grape suited to this climate,
I would state, I know of no foreign variety which will not




238         THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
succeed in open culture, and I have cultivated many varieties which cannot be raised in England on account ot
their great delicacy. The true Malaga-on account of its
exceedingly thin skin, the most difficult-I have cultivated to great perfection, and it was pronounced by all
who tried them, as tar superior to the imported Portugal
or Malaga, as a ripe peach to a green one. Among the
foreign varieties, I rank first the Muscat of Alexandria;
no grape call equal it in point of flavor, and I have raised
them weighing 8 pounds to the bunch, and without an
imperfect grape.  Next is the Black Hamburgh, and
then the Malaga. These three I place at the head of the
list of foreign grapes.
" Among the native varieties, the most valuable I consider the Scuppernong, which cannot be cultivated at the
north. It is claimed to be a native of North Carolina.
This is a mistake.  It is a Grecian grape, known there as
the Alaric, and from which the finest wines of Greece
are made. All things considered, it is unsurpassed as a
table fruit, except by the three foreign varieties I have
named. As a wine grape, it has not its equal. It will
yield five gallons of juice to the bushel of grapes. The
fruit in Carolina is far inferior to that raised in this climate. In point of flavor, one would hardly recognize it
as the same grape. This is to be attributed mainly to
our long seasons, the fruit blooming in May, and ripening
in August and September. The bunches are small, varying from three to ten berries each, and when properly
cultivated, the grapes will average from 2} to 3 inches
in circumference.  If manured witl  vegetable matter,
they have but little, if any, pulp. If with bones, or




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.                 239
other animal manure, they are a richer table fruit, but
with more pulp, and consequently less valuable as a wine
grape.  The vine is never pruned.  It prunes itself.
The knife is fatal to it.  And, unlike all other grape vines,
it will not strike root from a cutting, it being propagated
exclusively by layers. The next best grape in this climate, of the natives, is the Elsingburgh, and with this
the chapter is complete, for I know of no other worth the
trouble of raising.  The Isabella  is utterly  worthless
with us; so is Hyde's Eliza.  The Catawba, and Warren
grapes, are each better; but those who have eaten of
either the Aclric or Elsingburgh, and especially any of
the foreign varieties, would never undertake the culture
of the Isabella or Catawba.
" I have eaten of the best of this fruit raised by Dr.
Underhill at Croton Point, near New  York, and have
coiie to the conclusion that it is impossible to rid the
Isabella of its pulp, and of that wild native flavor it originally had.*
"I have been compelled necessarily to condense my
remarks, but allow me to say in conclusion that I know
of no work in this country or Europe in which more
valuable suggestions upon the subject of Horticulture,
and particularly of the cultivation of the grape vine, are
to be found than in your publication.  With my entire
library, it has gone to sea, in the gale of 1851.  I hope
you will supply  me with a copy of the new  edition.
* [This gentleman is not partial to the fox flavor of the native American
grape. Many can be found who are, however, and I think this number is increasing, as evidenced by the great sale of this fruit annually, and the irm
mense quantities now g'rown by amateurs for their own use. —ED.]




240          THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
Those who have a taste for such things, and wish to learn,
will be repaid by the perusal.' Respectfully yours,
(Signed)       "A, G. SEMMES.)
When preparing this third edition, I wrote to R. T.
Underhill, M.D., to inquire if he had any remarks which
he might wish to have published; he being the largest
and most successful cultivator of the native grape in the
Northern States.  The following letter was the answer
received.
" CROTON POINT, December 25, 1852.
".J. FISK ALLEN, ESQ.' DEAR SIR —Your letter is received.  Having been
from hom-e when it arrived prevented my returning you
a prompt answer. I was in Philadelphia at the time
looking after a vineyard of ten and a half acres of Isabella grapes I formed last spring for a resident of that
city. That is to say, I furnished the plants, gave every
direction for the preparation of the ground, and the
planting of the vines, and agreed to furnish him with
one of my vinedressers in two years after it was planted,
when it will be of proper age for bearing fruit, and he
will prune it accordingly.  He will have the entire direction of the vineyard; the proprietor paying him  a
reasonable compensation for his labor.
6' I have in this manner established quite a number of
vineyards, beside my own at Croton Point, in the vicinity of New York city, Philadelphia and Baltimore, and
trust, if I live a few years longer, to form  one, or more,




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.              241
in the vicinity of every city between New  York and
New Orleans.
" You state you are about publishing a third edition of
your work on the Grape, and that it occurred to you that
I might wish to say somewhat in reference to my success
in the cultivation of the grape at Croton Point.
" First I will state I have read your work on the cultivation of the grape under glass, and so far as I am capable of judging in this department, I do consider it one of
the best that has been published.  Your views in reference
to the preparation of the border for a grapery are very
correct. The gross, rank, stimulating manurzes so frequently used in large quantities, may sometimes give
very large clusters, but the excellent flavor will be sacri.
ficed, and all the good qualities proportionally deteriorated.
"I first read your book two or three years since, and
was happy to find my views were not solitary on this
subject. It is a general law of the vegetable economy,
that gross, rank manures, have a tendency to prevent
that perfect assimilation necessary to give the excellent
flavor, and secure the development of a large proportion
of nutritive qualities in fruits and vegetables.
" You state you were in New York during the grape
season and that you saw' any quantity of very fine Isabellas from my vineyards.'  You say further you'never
saw finer,' and'that they were well ripened, rich, and
sweet.' I can not help feeling I have accomplished
much, when, however complimentary I may view your
letter, my fruit has secured the approbation of one of
the most successful cultivators of grapes under glass in
11




242         THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
the United States.  In relation to the success of my
vineyards at Croton Point, I may say, they have more
than realized my most sanguine expectations.  The flavor and general character of the fruit have improved.
very much during the last ten years; and will I believe
continue to improve by close attention and good management.  When a vineyard of Isabella grapes is properly
formed and cultivated, the crop of fruit, in this vicinity
(below the Highlands of the Hudson River), is about as
certain as a crop of Indian corn.  When their proper
culture is not understood, a crop of fruit would be near.
ly as uncertain in the Southern States, as in this latitude.
" The demand for the fruit is greatly on the increase.
There are ten or twelve vineyards, of moderate size, in
the vicinity of New York beside those at Croton Point,
many of which have come into bearing, and yet the
market has shown less appearance of being over-stocked
with grapes of the first quality, than it was many years
ago, when the quantity furnished was comparatively
small.  The fact is, quite a number of our citizens are
beginning to eat grapes for pleasure and health.  When
the greater part of the community who can afford it,
partake freely of this delightful fruit, which they will in
ten years, or less, if they can obtain it, it is ny belief, from
a close scrutiny into the rise and progress of the grape
culture on the Atlantic seaboard, a hundred vineyards
will not suply the demand for this fruit in New York,
Philadelphia, and Boston, at remunerating prices.
"Yours truly,
" R. T. UNDERHILL, M.D."




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.              243
REMARKS ON THE USE OF MANURES.
SINCE the publication of the first edition of THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE, there has been much interest expressed in the question, whether animal substances were
beneficial, or otherwise, as part of the compost forming
the border. This interest, in this country, has been increased by an article in the Magazine of Horticulture,
edited by Mr. Hovey, in which he, in strong language,
disapproves of not only animal remains, but classes
under the term of " quackery" almost every article that
has been, from  time immen'orial, considered, both by
practical gardeners and scientific writers, as useful as
amendments for the vineyard. This opinion of his, being
published about the time of the appearance of the above
pamphlet, wherein I had directed most of these articles
to be used in the formation of the border, excited some
remark, and the question is often asked, How can there
be such a diversity of opinion and practice? My belief
is, that there is not so wide a difference as there would
appear; the reason for this will be given in the proper
place.
A subsequent article by the same editor, in confirmation of I is former. opinion, appeared in the February




244         THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
number of his magazine, and, in support of his views, he
brings forward the editor of the Gardeners' Chronicle,
who disapproves of carrion, but nothing is said against
shells and other articles by this gentleman; on the contrary, the application of these is incidentally approved
of, by the commendation of authors who do advise their
use.
The following remarks of Mr. Hovey, are the two articles referred to:" 0n the Fornation of Vine Borders.  By the Editor.-The cultivation of the grape vine under glass is
now attracting much attention; and many new  vineries
have been erected in various parts of the country the last
two years. The formation of the border, certainly one
of the most important objects connected with the successful management and future welfare of the vines, is,
therefore, considered as deserving of every attention.
Much has been written upon this subject in each volume
of our magazine, and we have endeavored to present our
readers with all the information which could be of any
value to the amateur or practical cultivator.  In our article in our last volume, (Vol. 13, p. 293,) upon the
growth of the grape vine in the greenhouse or conservatory, we gave a few hints upon the preparation of vine
borders, and remarked' that afine crop of grapes could
be obtained without all the quaccery so often recommended in their formation, such as a bed of oyster shells,
or boiled bones, dead horses, cattle, dogs, slaughter-house
manure, blood, soot, &c.'
" Some of our practical friends, who have had some
experience in the culture (of the grape, lhave b)een some.




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.              24,
what surprised to find we were not a firm believer in the
great efficacy of the very richest ingredients, such as
dead animals, for the formation of the border, and some
have been almost disposed to doubt whether our own
success was not effected by some such aid, contrary to
our statement. To the former, we need only remark,
that we are more and more convinced, that the employment of the carcasses of animals is of no benefit whatever, but rather an injury in the end; and, to the latter,
we shall merely state that, whatever practice we recommend, we invariably adopt, until experience assures us
that it is founded in error.
6 The subject of the preparation of vine borders has
recently attracted considerable attention in England, and
various communications have appeared, in some of the
gardening periodicals, in relation to the practice of using
the carcasses of dead animals. This discussion has taken
place in consequence of the publication of a small, but
excellent little work, of only eighty or ninety pages, upon
the culture of the grape, by Mr. Roberts, a very successful cultivator.  Probably, few copies of the volume have
ever found their way here, in consequence of the high
price at which it was published.  We, however, received
a copy when it first appeared, and read it with much
interest, and came to the same conclusion as Dr. Lindley,
whose article we are about to notice, that it was one of
the most thorough, practical, and common-sense treatises
which we had ever read, and, saving its recommendation
of the   pabulum.'* of dead animals, to produce the
* A substance afforiir g nourishment.




246          THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.'nectar of Bacchus,' was just what every cultivator ot
the grape was in need of. We bad intended to have prepared a review of it, but other matters pressed upon us,
and it was, for the time, forgotten.
" The preparation of our article in our last volume
brought the subject up anew, and it was in reference to
MVr. Roberts's views that we made the remark before
quoted. Subsequently to the publication of our paper,
and unknown to us at the time we wrote, appeared Mr.
Allen's pamphlet on the culture of the grape, in which
he advises the use-of carcasses of dead animals, if they
can be had, to such an extent as to cover the bottom of
the border. In our review  of this work, (Vol. 13, p.
409,) we incidentally stated our objection to this practice,
believing it to be of no use, but rather injurious to the
future health of the vines.
"Since that time, the discussion of this question has
principally taken place, and, to show that our views are
the same as those entertained by experienced cultivators,
as well as scientific writers, abroad, we have quoted the
following article from the Gardeners' Chronicle for December last, to which we ask especial attention."' —agazine of Horteiculture, Vol. 14, page 49.
After describing the conservatory, and with other remarks relative to the plants therein, Mr. Hovey goes on
to say, that it was not originally intended to plant vines
in the house, but that, being anxious to prove kinds,
we commenced the formation of the border, not with the
expectation that we should raise any grapes worth the
trouble.  Consequently, the border was made only fourteen feet wide and two and a half deep, and, as the con



THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.              247
servatory was set well up with a view to have a fine
gravelled trellis, the border was eighteen inches above
the level of the lawn.  The border was formed by carting in sods and good loam from an old pasture, and. mixing with them about one quarter of well decomposed manure from the stable yard and from  old hotbeds. This
was done in July and August at leisure time. In the
fall, the whole was trenched over in a rough manner,
and about thirty bushels of ground bones added.  In
this way, the soil lay till the next spring, when it was
again trenched over and ready for planting.  We are not
thus particular in order to show how a border should be
made, but merely that it may be seen that a FINE CROP
of grapes can be obtained without all the quackery so
often recommended in their formation, such as a bed of
oyster shells or boiled bones, dead horses, cattle, and
dogs, slaughter house manure, blood, soot, &c. All that
is necessary, in our opinion, to produce the very best
grapes, is a good rich, loamy soil, well top-cdressed, every
year, with old stable manure and guano, in order to
bring the roots to the surface, rather than that they
should go to the bottom after the dead carcasses."
After planting the vines, Mr. Hovey directs, "'that,
should the weather prove dry, the roots be well watered,
and the surface mulched with a little coarse stable manure."
The third season, the vines were allowed to bear from
two to five bunches each. Very gentle cropping, certainly. Mfr. H. says they were of superior quality, the vines
were not forced, and ripened their fruit in September.
The fourth season. The regular diary of the treatment




248 -3THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
that the vines received begins now. I shall only notice
what relates to the manures. In former seasons, nothing
is said about manures, and we can only presume the)
were applied then as they were the year of the record
as this is given as a guide for the management of th(
vines generally --
" _arci 1st. —-Some of the vines have burst a few o,
their eyes.' April 30th.-The border not yet having been dug,
it was manured with ten or fifteen pounds of guano, ano
spaded about six inches deep.
" June th.-The weather having been quite dry, the
border has been mulched with coarse manure, and about
a barrel of water given to each vine.
A eJne 1th -Gave the border about ten barrels of
water.'" Jnte SOth.-Since the refreshing rains of the 20th
to the 28th, the berries have swelled very fast.
"JAly 12th.-Warm, with refreshing showers.
" July 22d.-Was rainy; the 25th the rainy weather
continues.
" August 8th. -Light showers.
A' AZugust 10t7i.-Showers.
"     August 15th.-The weather having been dry since
the 10th, gave about a barrel of water to each vine.
" August 3lsto —The fruit all ripe, with the exception
of the Esperione and Black Prince."
Mr. Hovey has omitted to state, that his border was
covered with coarse manure and leaves in sufficient quantity to prevent severe frosts from inljuring the roots of




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.              249
the vines. This is an important matter, and should not
be neglected, for, in addition to the'benefit derived from
this protection, from the severity of the weather, the advantages from the juices of this covering being washed
down amongst the soil and roots, by the rains and melting snows of winter, (particularly where the border is
not of the very richest kind,) must be very great.  The
vines were planted, on an average, four and a half feet
apart, the length of the house being eighty-six feet, and
nineteen vines being the number planted. I should have
planted, in the same space, twenty-nine vines, or fifty
per cent. greater.  And this difference in the number of
the vines has a very important bearing upon the subject,
as the roots of the vine in his border have this per centage more space to roam for nourishment. Allowing that
the vine, thus situated, does perfect a good crop of fine
fruit, still, by the plan of close planting, with a very rich
border, the difference in the product must be very much
in favor of the latter system.
Mr. IHovey remarks, " All that is necessary, in our
opinion, to produce the very best grapes, is a good, rich,
loamy soil, well top-dressed, every year, with old stable
manure and guano."  I agree with him  perfectly, so far
as the soil is concerned, and go even further than he
does, for if this goodl, rich, loamy soil is had, you have
already everything that is wanted, so far as nourishing
matter is concerned, and there can be no necessity for
this yearly application of stable manure and guano, —
this latter article the most concentrated and powerful
manure known.  (I cannot see the propriety of recommending the use of this, when the application of decom.
11*




250         THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
posed animal substances is forbidden.)  If such a soil
can be found, the only preparation requisite before planting the vine, will be, if the situation requires it, some
kind of application, such as shells or charcoal screenings,
which would have a tendency to loosen and give permeability thereto, so as to allow the rain to pass freely
through the soil, and, at the same time, make it easy for
the roots to spread.  This is just the soil we are attempting to form  when we prepare the border, as directed
under the proper head.  In Massachusetts, I suppose
such a soil will rarely be met with, and a prepared border
must be resorted to.
A benefit to be derived from the top-dressing of stable
manure and guano, according to Mr. Hovey, is, that the
roots arle thus brought to the surface, " rather than that
they should go to the bottom  after the dead carcasses."
These dead carcasses appear to be a great bugbear in our
friend's path, and one would suppose, by the dread in
which he stands of them, that the bunches of fiuit, instead of having their usual bloom, would be ornamented
with hogs' bristles, horses' hair, dogs' teeth, and other
curiosities.  How long does he suppose this carcass retains any appearance of what it was when placed in the
border? In Massachusetts, and south of this, if placed
there during any time but the winter months, in sixty
days every vestige of the body will have disappeared,
excepting the bones, horns, hoofs, and hair, and will have
become incorporated with the soil and enriched it to a
great degree. The bones, being at the bottom, will remain according to their size and age, from one to fifty
years, continually and very slowly decomrposing.  Mr.




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.             251
hovey wishes to keep the roots at the surface, and this
he will do by the top-dressing.
In the directions for the winter treatment of the vine,
it was recommended to cover the border with coarse manure and leaves, so that all th he advantage the vine would
derive fiom this application would be reaped by following my plan; and, when fire-heat was used in the spring,
it is urged, as proper, to add to the litter, etc., already on,
enough of new manure to cover the border twelve or
eighteen inches thick, which would ferment and heat,
and certainly encourage the roots to keep to the surface.
But does any one suppose that all the roots of the vine,a plant that will live for centuries,-are to be kept within
such a limit? This bugbear of the carcasses, (I am not
so particular about the flesh being on them, it is the
bones and hoofs I depend upon chiefly,) which trouble
Mr. Hovey so much, and which are to draw the roots of
the vine down to them, (it is admitted then that there is
such nourishment,) I place there, at the bottom of the
border, the lower part of them  three feet and the upper
part, perhaps, not more than two under the surface, to
give durability to the border, presuming that the vine
will not reach them before the second, third, or fourth
year, and that, when it does, by the superior richness of
this strata, the roots are effectually prevented from going
deeper in search of food; it is well known that the roots
of the grape will form spongioles innumerable over the
surface of bones partially decomposed, and that they
turn and return, on the inside and outside of them, having no disposition to part company.
The cause of Mr. Hovey's objecting to these materials
10*




252         THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
being at the bottom is the very reason why I place them
there.  He thinks it will draw  the roots from  the influence of the sun and air.  I think it will prevent them
fron going so deep as to be out of this influence; and al
a medium depth, they will be less exposed to the changes
of the weather, and enjoy a more equal temperature, as
well as be less liable to suffer from drought.
Mr. Hovey covers his border, after planting, with a
little coarse manure, and, if the weather prove dry, he
waters the border.
In April, before the manure, which was put on to protect the roots, was dug in, ten or fifteen pounds of guano
was spread over it.
In June, the border was mulched with coarse manure
and watered. The 30th of June, after refreshing rains,
which had washed this manure, and soaked its juices
down amongst the roots of the vine, the " grapes swelled
their berries very fast," showing conclusively the benefit
of the manure.  All Mr. Hovey's statements go to prove
the value of a rich border. His border, it is true, has no
beast, in its original form, therein, but it is composed of
the top soil (the cream) of an old pasture, stable manure,
and ground bones, (this last material, I think, should
come under the head of quackery, particularly as, in the
ground matter, much of it comes immediately into action,) with the addition of the guano as a top-dressing.
The soil was new, and was well manured with substances
in which it is well known the grape will flourish, and the
vines were not planted near together; they were in a fine
house and undoubtedly judiciously treated; and, if the
plan of adding struong stimulating manures, such as




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.               253
guano, bone-dust, or the carcasses of animals, perfectly
decomposed, (I do not care which, the effect, in either
case. will be the same,) be continued from year to year,
I see no reason why they should not continue to prosper.
The border can, at any time, be made wider, if necessary.
If these applications are omitted, I have no doubt that,
in a few years, the fruit would deteriorate. In the border prepared with the materials of oyster shells, bones,
dead horses, cattle, and slaughter-house manure, as detailed in iny plan, the vines, if well treated in the grapery, would continue to fruit well for fifty years or more,
without the application of guano, etc., or liquid manure,
the application of which is quite as offensive as any of
the prohibited articles; and guano, if dissolved in water,
and suffered to remain exposed to the heat and sun in
the grapery, is more so than any substance I have recommended, proving that it contains all these disagreeable
materials, if you choose to bring them  into action, and
select that time to apply them to the border. Any one
may satisfy himself of the truth of this assertion, by
taking a few ounces of the guano and mixing it with a
quart of water and exposing it as above named.  If this
is the case, all the bad effect of strong manures upon the
flavor of the fruit must follow the use of this substance
as well as of the before-named. That it does have this
effect, I do not believe. Before these substances will be
used  to nourish the  vine, they must be chemically
changed; before this is done, they are a poison; and, if
in sufficient quantity, will destroy life in the roots which
are exposed to them.  It may be said that guano is already changed'; that it has laid exposed for years to the




254          THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
weather. It is not so changed but that it may be still
mnore so, and it is yet capable of fermenting and heating.
It is not unusual to find parts of, and even whole, birds,
more or less decomposed in it.
It is no objection to the use of any substance, as a manure, that there is a certain time or stage in its decomposition when it is offensive.  It is so with any substance;
and if you choose first to bring the material into this
state and then to apply it, it is your own fault. Even leaves
and the young shoots of the vines, if allowed to ferment
and become putrid in a tank, are as much so as any manure; and when the liquid from  these is applied to the
roots of the plant on the inside of the house, there is
nothing more offensive, or that retains the odor so long.
But this is no evidence that the liquid is injurious, or
any reason why it should not be used, but it is a hint to
the cultivator to apply it before it becomes thus offensive.
Mr. Hovey uses, in his border, the richest soil or loam,
and adds stable manure, ground bones, and guano, with
liquid applications in seasons of drought, in summer,
after mulching the border.
I use a good loam, with a large supply of whole bones
and other manures, but also a good portion of shells and
old bricks and mortar, and do not apply liquid or liquid
manures to vines thus situated. Thus, it appears that, if
the one has a rich border, the other does not differ materially fiom it.
To make this discussion of any benefit to the practical
gardener, it is necessary that he should read the whole
matter and hear both sides, and judge for himself what
is best for this purpose. I have quoted all the articles




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.              255
firom the Chronicle, and, to express my own opinion upon
the question raised, I have appended notes to the different suggestions, as occasion seemed to require.
" Questions for Vinze Growers. —Being near the residence of a celebrated grape-grower, (whose name it is
unnecessary to mention,) I had a great desire to pay him
a visit.  I learned, however, that Mr.      was not at
home, but was invited by an assistant to look round the
place. We proceeded directly to the vineries, in which
I found the vines healthy and vigorous; they were old
established vines, and were producing a very full crop,
particularly some Cannon Hall Muscats.  Proceeding
onward, however, to some newly erected houses, in which
the vines had been planted last February, I found the
young shoots all dead for eight and ten inches back, and
some even more; and, for the cause of this calamity, I
could not obtain a satisfactory explanation, the blame
being laid upon the sheet glass with which the houses
were glazed.  Upon inquiring of what the borders consisted, I was told that they had received a large admixture of dead carcasses, such as those of deer, horses,
&c., and of bones. On more recent inquiry, I was also
informed that the death of the young shoots was caused
by the flue running four times through the back walls;
but I know of no case of this kind ever having occurred
before." (The writer then says, neither the glass nor the
flues can be the cause of it.)  He adds,'-I conclude the
malady has arisen from  putrefaction in the border; for,
while these carcasses are in a putrescent state, noxious
matters must arise, which have proved a baneful stimulant to the tender roots.  I feel interested in the case,




L256             THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
and shall take it kind should any correspondent furnish
me with an opinion on the subject.  If the evil originated from carrion, (as in all likelihood it has,) writers of
treatises would do well to first prove its good effects before they  so highly recommend such  matters to  the
public."-Robert Elliott, HIorn's Castle, NVov. 24th, 1847.
" (We have always discountenanced the use of carrion
in this manner.  The vines are probably poisoned."Editorial remarks.)-Gardeners' Chronicle, 1847, page
798.
At the rooms of the London Horticultural Society,
December,  1847, were  exhibited  from  probably  the
above gardens, (by Mr. Roberts,) IMuscat of Alexandria,
and two other sorts of grapes, for which the Banksian
medal was awarded.*
Robert Errington, of Oulton, recommends covering
the grape border with barn-yard manure two feet deep,
over the whole extent of it in the month of October.
MIr. Roberts objects to this at that season of the year, and
says it should not be done  until the time of forcing approaches.  Mr. Errington  "is a great opponent to the
burying of carcasses, or any part of them, in borders,'
and refers to the remarks of Mr. Elliott, and attributes
the injury of the vines to this cause; but it does not appear that he was personally knowing to the facts as stated'by Mr. Elliott.
i' Vinte Culture.-On looking over the Chronicle, of
* That Mr. Roberts, and the vineries under his care, were thZ c ubiects
referred to in the above communication, has since been denied; but no one
can censure him for applying the article to himself. particularly when I;1
concluding sentence is considered.




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.               257
December 4th, I noticed a communication from  a Mr.
Robert Elliott, headed, I Questions for Vine Growers,'
and, as I am  evidently the person he alludes to, I beg
to offer a few remarks on his visit to Raby, if he, indeed,
visited Raby at all; for the wiiole of my men disclaim
all kno\,ledge of ever having shown this Mr. Elliott
through the place in my absence.  From  the remarks
he makes respecting the vines here, I assure your readers
that I slhuld not have troubled myself to refute him, had
I not ilad a. work biefore the public, from  the following
of which, to the letter, I have had unerring success; and,
if I cannot convince your readers that the greater part
of Mr. Elliott's letter is a tissue of falsehoods, I will
suffer niy treatise to fall as my contemporary's brick
pillars have done."
In reference to the vines in the old houses looking well,
and having good crops, as stated by Mr. Elliott, Mr.
Poberts says, that it is owing to the disbudding and topdressing the border with carrion, &c., and, wherever
practicable, applying heat to the roots. He then goes on
as follows:"'  Proceeding onward, however,' Mr. E. remarks,'to
some newly erected houses, in which the vines had been
planted last February, I found the shoots all dead for
eight and ten inches back, and some even more; and, for
the cause of this calamity, I could not obtain a satisfactory
explanation, the blame being laid upon the sheet glass
with which the houses were glazed.'
"'Now, in this range, during February and March,
there were planted, inside and outside, upwards of one
hundred and thirty vines, chiefly small plants, and through




2508        THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE
the whole range, when he saw them, (if he ever did see
them,) there were not thirty vines stopped at the points of
the shoots, as he describes, and those so stopped are entirely confined to thi roof vines planted outside, which is my
favorite method of planting.   As to the glass being injurious, this is rather a grave question, which ought to
be guardedly advanced. But I, in a great measure,
believe in the purport of Mr. Spencer's letter to the
Chronicle some time ago, though it was stated that the
glass was not in fault. I warn my brethren and amateurs
to be guarded as to the too free use of it.
"'Upon inquiry,' continues Mr. E.,'of what the
borders consisted, I was told they had received a large
admixture of dead carcasses, such as those of deer, horses,
&c." and, in the remarks appended to Mr. E.'s letter, the
editor says,' We have always discountenanced the use
of carrion in this manner.  The vines are probably poisoned.'
" It may, perhaps, be in your recollection, and I dare
say in that of' many of your readers, that a collection of
grapes was submitted by me, in September, 1841, to the
Iorticultural Society, which was the produce of young
vines. The borders in which they grew contained carrion, &c., as detailed in my treatise; and until I find
the specimens then sent superseded, I will still carry out
and recommend the use of carrion when it can be obtained.  But how can your position be tenable, when I
tell you that the vines mentioned. by Mr. E. are not
planted in carrion, and that no carrion has been near
them, not one horse carcass, nor a portion of one, is buried
in the whole of my new borders, which are extensive
8"




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.                   259
I was sorry at the time I made them, that it was not in
my power to avail myself of that pabulum to produce the
nectar of Bacchus.  All the carrion, of any description,
they contain, would not have made one load for a Shetland pony, and most of that was reduced, in order that it
might give out immediately nutritious food to the vines,
young as they were when planted, had it been placed
within their reach; but it was not.  In notices to correspondents, it has been stated that my method of preparing
borders was good, but too much azotised.*   The vine
borders at Bishop's Stortford, are stated to be gorged
with manure and fleshings of skinners and tanners, and
no caution is given regarding the too free use of azotised
manure, which is the basis of good cultivation.   An
immoderate use of such azotised manures, as a thorough
mixture through the soil, will be far more likely to prove
poisonous to vines in their infant state, and far more
injurious than anything I have yet offered to the public
as essential to the good culture of the vine.  But if I
was not able to add carrion, except in a very limited
degree, at the time my borders were made, I may mention that I fell in with a goodly lot last winter, part of
which has been added as a top-dressing this autumn,
and I intend in future to apply it to that purpose.  I
am  so cautious that the  least particle should not be
wasted, that I hoard it up as a miser would his gold.  I
hope the matter is here set at rest as regards carrion
poisoning vines.'On more recent inquiry,' says Mr.
*.zote or nitrogen;-this gas exists in ail animal substances, and in
such plants as putrefy with an animal odor, such as cabbage and mushroor




260          THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
Elliott,'I was also informed that the death of the young
shoots was caused by theflue running four times through
the back wall.  All this MIr. Roberts denies.'  I beg to
tell Mr. E., when. my treatise appeared before the public,
I had proved the value of carrion, and I have been in the
habit of using it for twenty years back, the results produced by which have been surprising and permanent."
"iMy new borders are formed and composed of nmaterials nearly to my wish, with only two exceptions: there
is too little carrion with too great a portion of another
constituent in the soil, in excess, but I hope to be able
to subdue this last to my mind.  With the above excep.
tibns, I am convinced from what little I have made the
habit of the vine my study, that the border contains
what is required for its perfect development and fruitfulness, etc." —Jamnes Roberts, Btaby Castle, December 13,
1847.
" (We cannot find that Mr. Elliott has said one word
about Raby in his letter.  Had he done so, we should
have waited for further information before we inserted
it."-Editor's remarks.)- Gardener's  Chronicle, 1847,
page 837.
" One of the best modern writers on the vine is Mr.
Roberts, now  gardener to the Duke of Cleveland, at
Raby.  His Treatise on Vine Culture contains more
really good advice, and sensible suggestions as to the
way in which this plant should be managed in vineries,
than all the English books of routine, which had been
previously published, put together.  His success as a
grape grower, while gardener to Mr. Matthew Wilson, at
Eshton  Hall, was a brilliant example of the general




THE  CULTURE  OF THE  GRAPE.                       261
soundness of his principles.  A  large silver medal, which
was  awarded  by  the  Horticultural  Society,  to  some
bunches of grapes, exhibited September  th, 1841, sufficiently attested the advantage of his practice; nor were
they  ~  picked  sample, but a fair  gathering  from  the
vineries  under his care, as we happen to know  on  the
very best authority.
" It is therefore with  no  ordinary reluctance that we
venture to question a part of the system  which Mr. Roberts advocates.  We allude to the employment of carrion
in  his vine borders.*   In  a letter which  we published
* The improper use of the word " carrion" by Mr. Roberts has been the
cause of this controversy or discussion, so far as the English writers have
participated in it.  In his rules for making the border, he calls it by this
name, when he is giving directions to have the substance procured.  In
placing it in the border, he adds, "Not bringing it to the surface within
one foot, as its assistance is not wanted the first year." Thus it will be
seen, that it is not putrefying flesh. carrion, that he gives to the vine as
food, but the decomposed matter and the bones, which may be properly
termed a manure, composed of loam, or soil, and decayed animals.  Another error, I think, of Mr. Roberts, is, his not directing that this flesh of
animals be used when fresh and sweet, and the disagreeable consequences
attending the removal of it, as described by him, would be avoided. If it
must be collected, before making the border, then let it be done a sufficient
length of time before removal, to insure its decomposition.  What that time
may be will depend upon the climate and the season of the year.  Near
the equator, a few weeks would be ample time for even the bones to decompose. In England, it would probably require the whole summer for
the flesh and sinews to dissolve.  At my garden in Salem, Massachusetts,
a very fat hog, that had died from excessive heat, in August, was placed
just under the ground, and covered with the soil, with the intention of removing and scattering the remains on the border in the fall. In sixty or
seventy days, the place was opened, and not a bone even could be discovered. The only vestige of animal remains that could have been part of the
creature were some teeth, and they may have been in the soil before.  The
rapid decay in this case, no doubt, was owing to the excessively fat condition and age of the hog, which was only six or eight months.




262          THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
last week, he states his conviction that this sort of ma.
nure is of the first degree of importance.  After mentioning that, in his new vine borders, not one horse carcass, nor a portion of one, is buried, he expresses his
regret that, at the time he made them, it was not in his
power to avail himself of that' pabulum to produce the
nectar of Bacchus.''But,' he adds,'if I was not able
to add carrion, except in a very limited degree, at the
time my borders were made, I may mention that I fell
in with a goodly lot last winter, part of which has been
added as a top-dressing this autumn, and I intend in
future to apply it to that purpose.  I am  so cautious
that the least particle should not be wasted, that I hoard
it up as a miser would his gold.'
" This is perfectly consistent with the directions which
Mr. Roberts has given in his treatise."
[For these, see Mr. Roberts's border; it is unnecessary
to repeat them here.]
" It cannot be denied that this is a process which must
not be called inviting.  Has it any disadvantages? Has
it any advantages   These are both very important
branches of inquiry.  It may be alleged that it can have
no disadvantages, because the magnificent grapes, above
referred to, were obtained by it.  But we are ignorant of
the history of those vines since 1841, and this point it
would be desirable to have elucidated.  In the next
place, it appears to us that the introduction, into vine
borders, of pasty masses of matter, such as result from
the use of carrion, is at variance with the first principles
of vine cultivation, the truth of which was known even
to the Romnans.




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.                263
A free LOOSE earth is what the vines demand,
Where wind and frost have help'd the lab'rer's hand
And sturdy peasants deep have stirr'd the land.
" This was the maxim of Virgil, and all theory and
experience prove its value.  Then there are the gaseous
results of decomposition, whose putrid odors render vine
borders, constructed on Mr. Roberts's plan, so intolerably
disgusting.  Can any one seriously believe that such an
agency is desirable?  That it is even suitable?  Certainly
we are not among the number.  It is perfectly well
known that azotised manures in a state of high concentration, are injurious or destructive to vegetable life; as
is proved sufficiently by the effect of certain animal matter, when thrown upon grass land; or as we have just
now evidence of before our eyes, in the form of a large
oak tree which was almost killed a few years ago, in consequence of the contents of an old cesspool having been
dug into the ground about its roots.  It is only when diluted that such manures acquire the high value which
belongs to them.  But it is not alone by their direct action, that they affect plants injuriously; the putrid gases
which they give out, are destructive to the young stems
and foliage of plants, in proportion to their strength;
such gases are, up to a certain point, absolute poisons,
although, below that point, they are nutritious.  It is not
very long since, that plants, in a small greenhouse, were
almost destroyed in consequence of a dead hedge-hog
having been allowed to putrefy in it; and it appears,
from  MrI. Roberts's statement, that some of his young
vines, about thirty, are dead at the ends; those thirty
being'entirely confined to the roof vines planted out



264              THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
side,' precisely those which the light gaseous products of
the rotten carrion, used in neighboring borders, though not
in their own, would be most likely to affect. Mir. Roberts,
however, is not inclined to refer the bad condition of his
vines to any such cause; but he hints at the glass being
possibly in fault.  He also refers to Mr. Nash's admirable
vine borders at Bishop's Stortford, which   are stated to
be gorged with manure, and fleshings of tanners and
skinners,' and compares them, as we understand him,
with his own.  But, in truth, there is no analogy.  Not
a particle of carrion was employed there.  Such animal
matters as skin, hair, and trimmings of hides, decompose
very slowly, and are not carrion any more than bones
are.  It is the animal matter which rapidly becomes putrid, and passes off in clouds of poisonous gas, that renders carrion, properly so called, objectionable.
" The vine-dressers of France object to manure altogether.  Virgil, to be sure, recommends it in some lines,
which should be committed to memory by every young
gardener:Next: when you layers in your vineyard make,
Mix some rich dung, and shells and pebbles break,
Spread the good soil with lib'ral hand around,
And trench them deeply in the lightened ground;
Superfluous moisture thus glides through the earth,
And healthy vapors aid the tender birth.
" No doubt, these are wise maxims.  No modern discovery is at variance with them; on the contrary, they
are confirmed by the experience of the most intelligent
cultivators. The whole aim of the poet is to inculcate'he necessity of keeping  the soil loose.  Dung may be




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.                265
used, he says, but then you are to mix it with shells and
broken pebbles, the object of which is to secure the constant openness of the soil.
" On the other hand, Chaptal, the best French writer
on the vine, discourages the use of manure.
"' The same reasons,' he says,' may be used against the
system  of the vine-growers of the north, who think it
advantageous to manure their vines.  By this means,
indeed, they obtain larger crops, and more wine, but it
is of bad quality, it will not keep; and its smell often
reminds one, when drank, of the disgusting substances
which produced it.  Manure communicates to the vine
too much nourishment.  The nutritious juice, reduced to
gas, and received by the months of the capillary roots,
and by the air-vessels of the leaves, penetrates and circulates in the sap-vessels, forms the wood of the plant, and
furnishes the substance out of which the shoots, leaves,
fic wers, and fruit are developed; the more abundant the
nL.tritive matter, the more the diameter of the vessels distends, the more rapid is the circulation of the sap, because the channels through which it passes have more
capacity. This causes the sap to circulate in a less state
of elaboration, the result of which must be, that the wine
is flat, insipid, and destitute of all the principles of alconol.  Nevertheless, the abundant crop thus obtained, and
the brilliant vegetation, are, after all, in some measure,
deceptive, FOR THEY CAN BE BUT TRANSITORY.  Tn vineyards where manuring is practised, they only manure once
in ten years.  It is not to be doubted, that the effect is
very remarkable the first three or four years after the
manuring of the vines, but, in the suceceeding years, the
12




266          THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
plants begin to languisA;  no longer finding that abundance of nourishrent to which they have been accustomed, they suffer in consequence, and often fall victims
to the want of it.  Thus a part of the plants are lost,
either by too much or too little nourishment.  But vines
can receive, and it is often advantageous to give them,
such manure as will make good the poverty of the soil,
its exhaustion, or what is required otherwise for this sort
of cultivation.  No manure suits vines better than what
is properly called vegetable earth, obtained by the decomposition of plants. Mosses, leaves, and turf, mixed
together, thrown up in great heaps, and left for about
two years to ferment, make the very best manure of this
sort.-(Traite sur la Culture de la  Vigne, i., 333.)
[Further extracts from Chaptal may be found under the
head of manures.]
"We will not say that these maxims are exactly applicable to English vine-growing; we seeking fine bunches
of grapes, the French requiring juice of fine quality; and
we are, therefore, ready to concede the value of manure
of a proper description. Nevertheless, although we fully
grant this, we are not the less of opinion, that the effect
of manure on vines is overrated, and we will take the
liberty to quote Mr. Roberts's own Eshton grapes in our
support. He says,'it may be in your recollection, and
in that of many of your re:tdere, that a collection of
grapes was submitted by tne in September, 1841, to the
Horticultural Society, which was the produce of young
vines. The borders in which they grew  contained carrion, &c., as detailed in my treatise, and, until I ind




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.                 267
tho specimens then} sent superseded, I will still carry out
and reconmmend the use of carrion, when it can be had.'
" We find that the weight of grapes exhibited on this
occasion, was as follows, one bunch in each case:Canon IIall Muscat      -         2 lbs. 3 oz.
White Nice,        -    -    -           12 "
Black fHamburgh, -    -    -    2'   56
Black Prince,      -    -         2 "  15 6
Black Damascus,  -    -              " 1 11 "
Black Morocco,          - -2 "   7 T'
and the bunches were beautiful.  But we have also before us, the following memorandum, to be found in the
Journal of the Horticultural Society,' vol. 11, p. 303.
"' On the twenty-first of August, 1847, the vice-secretary received from Mr. Abel L. Gower four bunches of
grapes; one a Muscat of Alexandria, weighing two
pounds nine ounces, and the others Black IHamburghs,
weighing, respectively, two pounds nine ounces, three
and a half pounds, and five pounds. The Black grapes
were rather deficient in color, but of very large size, and
excellent quality.'
" Now it will be observed, that the smallest of these
bunches weighed more than Mr. Roberts's Black Hamburgh, and the largest more thcan twice as much.  And
how did Mr. Hutchinson, the gardener at Castle Malgwyn, obtain them?  By carrion, or any such violent
and disgusting materials? Not at all. He states that
the compost'used in the formation of the border, was
hazelly loam  with its turf, three parts, and one part
brick, lime rubbish, and broken stones, with a little rich
old dung, the turf well rotted, and the whole well incolr




2'68          THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
Forated; the borders are forked up and  watered with
liquid manure once a year.'' Mr. Roberts will thus see that his fine Eshton grapes
are'superseded;' are, in  fact, beaten  by specimens
more than twice as good, and that by the use of simple,
inoffensive means, which, moreover, do not render a garden  more pestilent than a London churchyard, and so
dangerous to health, that it would be infallibly indicted,
if it existed within the reach of any sanatory regulations.
Should Mr. Roberts remain unconvinced  by these arguments, we would, at least, endeavor to persuade him  to
defer the use of carrion till the coming cholera shall
have quitted us. —Gardeners' Chronicle, 1847, p. 851.
In the Chronicle of January 1st, 1848, page 5th, is a
denial of Mr. Robert Elliott, of any allusion to Mr. Roberts, or the vines at Raby Castle, in his article  quoted
as from this paper, page 798, for 1847.!"Mr. Roberts did not leave Eshton Hall till May sixteenth, 1844.;  I went on the fifteenth of the same month,
and found the vines in a good growing state, with plenty
of grapes on them, and  they  still remain in good condition. I have, on. the rafters thirty-four vines and on
the  back  wall thirty, in  all sixty-four vines, each of
which produces, yearly, twenty pounds of grapes.*   My
* I have often been asked, why I limit the crop of grapes for the vine,
at twenty-five pounds.  English writers upon the subject speak of much
larger crops, we find; and, even by your own account, the Hampton Court
vine ripens its two thousand bunches. This is all true, but it is no reason
why your vines, which have been planted only, three feet apart, and are
allowed less than eighteen inches on each side of the main shoot for its
branches and fiuit, should carry the crop that the Hampton Court vine
does, which has a great space of soil for the roots to roam in, and the




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.                            269
plan  is, not to allow  a  vine  to  bear  more  than  twenty
bunches  of grapes, which  swell finely, and  we  might
travel a long way ere we met with vines to  mlatch  those
roof of an entire house, sever.;y feet long, and proportionately wide, for
the brlanches to  ramble over. Again, this vine, and some others, mentioned under the head of remarkable vines, are exceptions to the general
bearing of the  foreign kinds of the grape, favorably affected by some
peculiarity in their location, which it is not likely will be the case with the
vines in your grapery. Perhaps the difference in the amount of fruit
produced may not be so great as you suppose.  If I am correct in the
length of the house for the HIampton Court vine, which produces the two
thousand bunches, the same length of house would contain, by my system.
twenty-three vines, and twenty-five pounds each vine would produce five
hundred and seventy-five pounds.  The same number of vines on the back
wvall would produce, if well managed, certainly half this amount, or a total
of eight hundred anld sixty-two' pounds of grapes, the quality of which
could not well be surpassed.  The two thousand bunches on the Hampton
vine, at the time I saw them, would not average more than half a, pound
each, or one thousand pounds.   I have seen it stated, that this vine has
produced  one ton of two tlousand two hundred and forty pounds of
grapes in a season.   This may be so, but of the quality of this fruit we
know nothing.  I am endeavoring to show what a vine will do, evcey year,
if treated as directed.  In saying that twenty-five pounds is all that a vine
should be allowed to bear, I do not wvish to be understood as meaning that
a. vine cannot, under any circumstances, occasionally produce a much larger
quantity; the a.ccount I so soon give of the vine at Ilampton Court bearing such a crop, is proof enough that I hold no such opinion.   What I
presume to be wanted of a vine is, a certainty (as near as human agency
can effect this,) of a liberal and annual crop of fruit, in quality as rich as
it can be grown under the circumstances of situation, &c.  This, I believe,
can be obtained by the system  recommended and adopted: by myself; and
I can assure my readers, that they will, after a few  years of experience,
agree with me in the opinion, that twenty-five pounds of such fruit on
every vine, (favorably situated,) for many successive years, is not a bad
crop. On the back wall, or under circumstances not admitting of a fill
crop, the judgment of the cultivator must be exercised in ascertaining lwhat
is the proper amount i- these cases; it will, probably, range from  five to
fifteen pounds.
By limiting the crop to this weight, I do not adhere strictly to just this
amount; it would  s absurd to attemp it.  Before thinning the berries, I




270              THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
at Eshton.   I have  this year, obtained eleven  prizes for
grapes, at three shows, and, last year, seven prizes at two
shows.   In fifteen years, I rave received sixty-four prizes
reduce the number of bunches to what I suppose, if well filled out, would
make this weight. It would be useless, if after the estimated weight had
ripened its seed, and it was asccrtained that, from the vigor of the vine, the
bunches would swell and exceed the amount required, to cut off the excess
now.  When the grapes have thus perfected their seed, and are swelling
off and changing color rapidly, and the bunches are larger than was expected, to lessen this excess of quantity, if it can be done without injuringD
the bunch, I thin out the berries still more, that all the nourishment may
be thrown into those remaining.  The effect of this treatment will be to
keep the vine in perfect health and vigor. If, under these circumstances,
the bunches and berries swell beyond my calculations, and the weighll of
fruit produced exceed the rule, there is no harm done, for the vine,:rom its
strong condition, has productk  this result.  I have thirty pounds, and
perhaps more, op a few  vines, at this moment; the  bunches which I
thought would weigh one pound exceeding this weight considerably; but
some other vines have less than the allowance.  Nor do I expect any loss
of crop  next year, in consequence;  for, had the vines not been  in
superior condition, and able, without weakening them, to have done this,
the berries would not have swollen in the manner they have, and tlhe
twenty-five pounds would have been the yield. If the vines had been
just coming into bearing, and six or ten pounds the required amount, I
should have been very careful to avoid an over crop.  Strengthen your
vines during the first five or six years of their growth, after planting in
your border, by not allowing them to produce heavy crops, and keep themr
ever after in this condition of strength, by aiming for a moderate yield of
fruit.  By so doing, your plants willbe in the state to afford this nourishment, and the bunches will enlarge to an extent that will surprise you;
on the otler hand, if they are over-cropped, they will (may they have been
ever so promising at the beginning of the summer,) remain with- the berries
small and loose, and entirely surpassed in weight and every desirable quality, by the neighboring vine, whose bunches, in the earlier part of the
season, were cast quite into the shade by these.
By the statements of goardeners, who have given accounts of the crops
t::ey have produced on their vines, it would be supposed that fifty pounds
was an AVERAGE yield.  (I am of opinion, that the weight in these cases.
was estimated, not real.)  Admitting this weight to be real, then the yield
&f 3m the seventy feet house, (the vines planted as is customary in Englandj
10*




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.                           271
for grapes.  Mr. Roberts and  I do not essentially  differ
in the treatment of the vine.  i agree with  the maxims
laid  down in  his book, with  one exception, viz.., the carfour feet apart,) would be, on the rafters and back wall, twelve hundred
and seventy-five pounds, about one third part more than would be produced by my plan.  If, as stated above, mny vines are capable of producing
a larger crop, the berries and bunches will swell proportionably, and the
average will be greater, bringing the difference to less than one fourth part.
The vine trained as the Hampton Court one would cover all the glass,
and it would be useless to attempt to grow grapes on the back wall; the
wood would not ripen sufficiently, and, in consequence, would not produce
fruit.  If space were left for the sun to shine on the wall and to ripen the
wood, the crop would be lessened in proportion, on the rafter trellis. Mr.
Cherry (see his statement of the vines, at Eshton Hall,) limits lis crop, per
vine, to twenty pounds on an average, back and front vines alike.  His object, unquestionably, is, to produce high-flavored fruit, and he is the only
English gardener, that I remember to have read, that speaks of so small an
amount, and whose practice, in this respect, makes any approach to the
product of the vine in the most famous districts of grape culture, on the
continent of Europe.  I have, sometimes, when a vine has been over-luxuriant, allowed it to ripen one hundred bunches, to check its excessive
growth, and with the desired effect; but this was with the very strong
growing kinds, as Verdelho and Black Portugal; it would have been seriously injurious to most varieties.  Frequently, I have been requested to
go and see vines loaded with fruit, and have found forty or fifty large
bunches on a. young vine  they were always looking well until after the
seeding time, and then came the shrivel and shanking, and another disease,
the effect of over-cropping, in which the berries have a soft, cold feeling whenl
touched, just as they do when shrivelled, but no appearance of this on the
stems.  The fate of these grapes has always been similar, the loss of two
thirds or three quarters of the fruit, with scarcely a decent bunch.  In
Hovey's Magazine of Horticulture, vol. 4, New Series, at the 277th page,
is an article on the grape, taken fiom the Gardeners' Journal, 1848, p. 182, in
which the writer's object was, as he states, to do justice to a Mr. Gerrie's
good management of the vine.  As I am a disbeliever in the vines annually
producing fort, or fir  o   fty. or. as some writers say, sixty and eighty pounds of
fruit, for any lengthl of yearls,-and as this gentleman furnishes one of these
wonderful strlies, and also supplies the facts contradicting his own statements, and, at the same time, gives confirmation to my opinion expressed
eefor. tl'a  these weights are, usually, by estimation, and not by actuep




272            THE CULTURE  OF THE  GRAPE.
rion.  For a  border, I like fresh  sods, and  dung  in  a
fresh state, say six cart-loads of good  sods, one cart-load
of leaf mould, and  one  cart-load  of horse-droppings.
balance, and will show to the inexperienced in these matter, how easily
people may be deceived, when they do not calculate for themselves, and
how readily such a statement, after once being in print, is circulated without examination,-I shall quote a large part of it here:Both houses were planted in March, 1846. The vines grew finely the
first season, making strong wood, short-joined, and well ripened; they were
pruned to about half the length of each rafter.  Forcing was commenced
in both houses, on the tenth of February, 1841. I saw them  in August
following, and a finer crop, or better fruit, I never witnessed, as far as they
were pruned.  The bunches were large, the berries well swelled, and all a
good color, nor one of them  being shanked. The greatest number of
bunches on one vine, was twenty-six, the least number, fourteen. The
weight of the bunches was from  one pound to two and a half pounds
each; the entire weight being nearly three hundred weight, from the thirty
vines, with which the houses were plabted.  This, your readers will say,
was a surprising crop for the second year after planting, and so, no doubt,
it was; and now comes a very important question. Was it prudent, on the
part of Mr. G errie, to allow so many to remain on the first season? and was
he justified in so doing'?  The result showed that he was. The vines did
their duty nobly.  He was aware that the material in which they grew was
good; the wood was strong and well matured; and he judged, therefore,
that he migiht allow them to produce the above quantity."
Upon the propriety of fruiting vines thus early, I have expressed my
opinion, under the proper head. It will be noticed, that this writer states,
that the greatest number of bunches on a vine was twenty-six, the least
number fourteen. and that the bunches weighed from one pound to two and
ahalf pounds each. He then adds, the entire weight being nearly three
hundred weight, from the thirty vines; thir ty vines, at twenty-six bunches
each, would give a total of seven hundred and eighty bunches, and the
mean weight, per bunch, he gives, (one pound to two and a half pounds
each,) is one and three quarter pounds, or, a total of thirteen hundred and
sixty-five pounds. Again, thirty vines, at fourteen bunches each, would
give four hundred and twenty bunches, which, at the miean weight of one
and three quarter pounds each bunch, would give a total of seven hundred
and thirty-five pounds; showing the crop of fruit, according to his own
etatement, as ranging between seven hundreid and thirty-five lnd thirteen
hundred and sixty-five pounds; and yet he says. the entire weiOht wevi




THE CULTURE  OF THE  GRAPE.                       273
G-EORGE CIEIRRY, Eshton  Hall."- Gardeners' Ck2ronicle,
1848, p. 22.
"It  appears that we  were  notfar wrong, when  we
ventured  to  express a doubt as  to the permanence  of
the vigor produced  in  vines, by the use of carrion, (see
page 851, 1847.)    ir. Cherry, the  gardener at Eshton
Hall, himself objects  to  it, and, although  he describes
the vines there as still remaining  in  good condition, yet
admits that the weight of the bunches does not now  exceed one pound  on  an  average, yet they have been out
of /Mr. Roberts's charge for only three years.  This is a
sad falling off from  two and a quarter pounds a bunch.
That they are still in good health and very respectable
vines, we fully believe, for they continue to be managed
upon Mr. Roberts's  plan, which we regard as excellent,
with the single exception of the carrion."
"What  the  effect of using  carrion  in  vine  borders
really is, appears pretty clearly from the following statement, which has just reached us:
about three hundred pounds, or ten pounds per vine, instead of from twentyfour and a half to forty-five and a half pounds. as by the statement of
bunches and their weight. If the number of bunches on each vine wos
correctly stated, instead of weighing from one pound to two and a half
pounds, t ony we fm  t te ounc  they only weighed fro six to twelve ounces, or the average weight
of about half a pound each.  Very small bunches indeed.  As to the vines
maturing this ten pounds of fruit, the second year, there is no improbability
in that, and it is not unlikely that they may have borne respectable crops
of fruit for several years, but I do not think they would compare with vines
differently treated, after they were five or six years old.
If any one should prefer to plant but one vine in a grapery, and train it
after the manner of the Hampton Court vine, he should proceed upon the
principle, that he was establishing a tree, to remain fdr centuries, and should
not allow it to fruit until it had been planted for five or six years, and had
become well establish ed. I believe, however, that the amount of fru.t obh
tained, would be less, annually, after waiting thus long, than by the mode
of planting many;vines.
i 2'*




274          THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
" Some years since, I took charge of a place where
there were three large vineries, the grapes of which had
entirely failed.  The vines had been planted about six
years.  Upon examination, the borders proved to contain
the carcasses of thirty fat hogs, which had died of murrain, together with the bodies of other stock.  They likewise contained three or four wagon-loads of large bones,
and an immense quantity of woolen rags, saturated with
oil.  Upon digging into the border, I found the soil
more like paste than any thing else, and the stench was
so dreadful that one of the men was taken ill from  the
effects of' it. Througlhout the whole of that border, I
found not one single fibre; the large roots were covered
with canker, and several large ones were eaten completely
through.  The foliage was very large, but sickly, the
wood  very long-jointed  and watery.   I  commenced
forcing one house of Black Hanmburghs early; the tenmperature was kept low, with abundance of air; the vines
broke slowly and strong, but showed scarcely any fruit,
generally throwing off a tendril instead of a bunch; the
other houses were also indifferent, both in flavor and
color, being watery, and insipid to the taste.  At that
time, I had not made the above examination.  Afterwards I added one third of old mortar and brick rubbish,
and, having well mingled the whole, I replanted the
vines calefully; the result was, that, the following season, the wood became firmer and short-jointed, and the
crop  improved, both  in  weight, flavor, and color. —
E. F. G."*
* E. F. G. states impossibilities; and, to practical men, renders thereby
his communicatian worthless, unless they can be accounted for as oversights




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.                           275
With reference to manuring, a friend has lately conmmunicate    to  us  the  following  interesting   mermorandum: —
" When I visited  the  vineyards  of Frontignan, I was
much struck with the exceeding tenderness and crispness
That the editor of the Chronicle should have thoug'ht the article of value,
must have been because it favored hlls opinion relative to the use of carrion;
and lie could not have given it a careful perusal: if he did, he overlooked
the result of such reasoning'.  You might, with as much propriety, say that
bone-dust, guano, poudrette, or any chemical combination, was bad and unsuitable as manure for the vine, because it would not flourish if planted in
them, simply, or with only a small proportion of soil. According to E. F. G.,
here was a mass of thirty fat hogs, and other bodies besides, (how many
he does not say,) three or four wagon-loads of large bones, and an imzmense
qguantity of woolen'ags saturated withi oil."  (This last article of oil, unless
used in the compost heap, and entirely decomposed before it is used, is,
perhaps, the worst poison that can be applied to the roots of fruit trees, of
all kinds.)  Upon digging into it, according to his account, it was a mass
of putrid matter, which would as surely destroy all life in the root of the
vine which caine within its reach, as fire would destroy life in the animal,
if surrounded thereby.  In fact, it was a compost heap, piled above the
roots of the vine.  (The vines had been planted six years; this heap of
matter could not have been put there at that time; for, even in England,
two years is sufficient for the mass to have been changed.)  What practical
gardener would think of planting his vines in such materials?  Compare
this mass of putrid matter with the soil, as recommended by Mr. Roberts;
how very unlike they are!
" Throughout the whole of the border, he found not one single fibre, and
the large roots were cankered, and some of them eaten through."  He does
not state by what the roots were eaten; whether by worris, produced in
this putrefaction, or by the canker.  This is just the condition the roots
might be supposed to be in, that is, dead.  It is impossible to cause a root
of the vine to live in such matter, during decomposition.  Thus far, there
is reason in what E. F. G. says, as to the condition of the border, and the
state of the roots of the vines growing therein.  But when he states "that
the foliage was very large, but sickly; the wood very long-jointed and
watery," we cannot agree with him; it cannot be; EF. F. G. must have
overlooked some important fact; the roots of the vine could not, without
spongioles and rootlets innumerable, produce this long-jointed wood, wit




276                THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
(if I may use the term) of the grapes there grown, as
compared  with the Muscats of our forcing-houses; and,
when I tasted  the Nice grape of Raby Castle, of which
you were so good  as to  send  me a sample, the idea occurred  to me, that the  hardness of the pulp might be
owing  to excessive manuring and forcing  of the vine;
and I thought of writing to you, to inquire if you were
aware  of any  facts, in  the  history  of vegetation, that
would  warn ant such  conclusion.  I miay  mention, too,
that this latter grape, though magnificent to the eye,
had, to my taste, a flavor different from the ordinary
Nice kind, something like what the French call gout de
terroir in  wine.  That this  peculiarity  may' originate
from the foul manure that had been given to the vine, I
think highly probable; and  the following instance will
show how easily the flavor of the fruit may be affected by
substances less offensive than carrion.  M. De Chassirou
has observed, that the wines of the Isles of Oleron  and
Rea, are of bad quality, and retain the odor peculiar to
the sea-weeds with  which the vineyards there are malarge leaves. In forcing, "the vines broke slowly, but strong, and showed
scarcely any fruit,"  Here, also, is a strange statement; the vines, to do
this, must have received abundant nourishment; and such a condition of
the roots, as before-mentioned by him, could not have furnished it. E. F. G.
did not go deep enough into the border; if he had, (and the' vines were as
he stated,) he then would have found, below all this mass of putrid matter,
the roots and rootlets which furnished the sap that produced these long
shoots and large leaves; and these roots being so deep in the soil, is the
cause why the vines did not die from the effects of the manure, and is the
reason they did not fruit, the wood not ripening sufficiently.  A small part
of this putrid matter, if it had been changed, as it should have been, in the
compost heap, and then applied as a top-dressing, would have enticed the
roots to the surface, and have been beneficial, instead of destroying them
as it did.




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.                 277
nured.  In all wine countries, where we may suppose
the culture of the vine to be best understood, the opinion universally prevails, that fresh manure ought not to
be used, or, if it be so, that it should be applied in the
autumn, after the vintage, so as to be, in a great measure, decomposed, and incorporated with the soil before
the ascent of the sap, in the spring. This practice is occasionally followed in the Rheni-gau, where a strong
prepossession exists in favor of manuring the vineyards,j
and where small quantities of litter are spread around
the roots of the vines; but the best authors concur in
recommending, that all the manure employed should be
first duly fermented, at whatever time it may be used."
-Gcadrcders' Chronicle, 1848, p. 19.'The custom of introducing carcasses into vine borders, for the purpose of obtaining monster bunches of
flavorless grapes, has prevailed for a considerable length
of time in the neighborhood of Leeds and Wakefield;
but the vines have always, in a few years, become feeble
and unproductive, in consequence of the dense mass of
putrefied  matter being  unsuitable to the  growth of
fibrous roots.  G."-Gcardeners' Chronicle, 1848, p. 37.
By James Roberts, Raby  Castle.  (As the remarks
are long, and much of it not having any practical bearing upon the question, I shall only extract such facts as
are different from those already stated.)  " In page 851,
it is stated, that the grapes I exhibited, on September
7th, 1841, have been superseded by Mr. Hutchinson,
* It is here admitted that, in some wine countries, manuring is allowed,
notwithstanding the assertion a few lines above, to the contrary. (Sea
manuring vineyards.)




278          THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
gardener at Castle Malgwyn. It certainly appears that
the I-almburghs sent were heavier, and, I have no doubt,
others have shown heavier bunches than mine, which,
perhaps, were not the heaviest in the Eshton range; but,
admitting they were, do the grapes alluded to supersede
them as a collection? This collection, which was exhibited in London, on the 7th September, on the 9th was
exhibited at York, and took five first prizes.  Surely
then the grapes must have been good indeed, which,
after receiving, I believe, the highest mredal ever awarded fur grapes, at the society's rooms in London, travelled,
by coach and rail, between four hundred and five hundred miles, were packed and repacked twice, and then
competed, successfully, amongst the best fruit-growers of
any county in England.
"Between September 7th, 1841, and October 17th,
1843, I was awarded, by the Horticultural Society of
London, eight medals, six for grapes exclusively, and two
for exhibitions in which grapes formed the principal
fruit.  It appears that Mr. Cherry agrees with my practice of culture, with the exception of carrion; but, if he
has not re-made the borders at Eshton, which I am persuaded lie has not, are not the vines still enjoying the
remains of what I ccautitously offered?"  Here follow
some particularly correct remarks relative to the border,
as described by E. F. G., page 274.  As I have made
my own statement concerning the materials used in this
border, and the effect, as described, upon tlie vines, and
as in the main we agree, it is unnecessary to quote them
here.' In making a tour, in the autumn of 1844, I
called at a nobleman's demesne.  After an introduction




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.              279
to the gardener, we entered a large vineyard, in which
was a splendid crop of Muscat of Alexandria grapes:
good bunches, with finely swelled berries, and beautifully
colored.  I expressed my delight at the sight, and he
stated the means employed to bring about so desirable a
result.  The vine was worn out, and bore little; and, he
added,'being possessed of your Treatise, I top-dressed,
as recommended, and the result is what you see; they
have been the admiration of all who have seen them. "Gardeners' C7hronicle, 1848.
"We should not treat Mr. Roberts's letter on vines, in
our last Chronicle, with the consideration to which the
indisputable skill of the writer is entitled, if we passed
it over without remark.  We are also called upon to notice it by some of the reasoning introduced into it.
" Mr. Roberts first questions whether his carrion-fed
vines have been excelled by others treated to a less offensive diet. That his grapes were excellent, we have repeated over and over again; they did the greatest credit
to his skill, as his work on the vine does to his intelligence and knowledge of his profession. But, until he
can show  that a bunch of Hamburgh, weighing five
pounds, is not superior to one weighing two pounds five
ounces, or a bunch of Aluscats, of two pounds nine
ounces, to one of the same kind weighing two pounds
three ounces,-and such are the differences between Mr.
IHutchison's Castle Malgwyn grapes and those of Eshton
I-Iall,-we must retain our opinion, that grapes are not
improved by being fed on carrion.  It.is said that Mir.
Hutchison's vines were seven years old, and those of Mr.
Roberts but two; but we learn, by the present gardeney




280          THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
at Eshton, that the vines there, now  that they have be.
came seven or eight years old, only bear bunches averaging one pound.  So that the carrion-fed vines are not im
provad by age; and their present state is, to our minds,
anything rather than   conclusive as to the advantages
to be derived from using that substance.'
i iMr. Roberts states that some very fine grapes, seen
by him  in Cheshire, had acquired their condition by
being top-dressed in the manner recommended by him.
We find that manner explained in his Treatise, to be' a
light top-dressing of ground bones, loamy soil,, rotten
manure, and decayed carrion, covering the whole with
an inch or two of half-rotten stable manure to prevent
evaporation,'-a good appliance, no doubt.  But we are
at a loss to know what this has really, to do with the
question at issue. The use of a little horse-flesh, in a
state of decay, is surely not the same thing as filling a
border with lumps of putrid flesh.'Adding one goodsized horse or cow carcass to every ten or twelve yards,'
(Treatise,) and we certainly should not be inclined to apply to the recommendation Mr. Roberts's term, cautious.
We own that to us the advice seems rather the reverse.
But we half suspect that, after all the controversy, our
difference in opinion from our very clever correspondent
turns, like many other differences, upon the meaning ot
a word.  What is really meant by carrion?  We understand it to be putrid flesh in the early stage of decomposition, emitting putrid effluvia not less dangerous to mai)
and plants than it is offensive and disgusting. These
early products of animal decay, be they what they,ma',
are given off in such abundance for a certain time. vary



THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE,               281
ing with temperature and other circumstances, that they
cannot be too cautiously guarded against; and therefore
carrion, in the sense in which we understand the word,
is wholly unfit for gardening purposes. But, by degrees,
the horrible emanations from putrid flesh are decomposed,
or absorbed by the surrounding soil, or are lost in the
open air, and then their dangerous quality disappears.
In fact, decayec carrion, that is to say, carrion which has
lost its ofiensiveness, is not carrion at all; it consists of
little more than bones, saline matter, and the black earth
which is called humus,-a very  valuable substance,
partly on account of its own action, and partly on account of the gaseous matters which it detains among its
pores, and parts with gradually and beneficially.  It is
old, crumbling manure. It is not to this that we, or any
one, would object.  Quite the contrary; and we readily
admit that, after a time, the dead horses in the vine
borders at Eshton, ceasing to be dangerous, will become
a potent and harmless manure.  But the mischief is done
before that time; the first stage in the growth of the
vines has been injurious, and we doubt whether any
amount of care will quite repair the damage.  At all
events, admitting that it may be repaired, we are still
forced to arrive at the conclusion that the use of so offensive a material as carrion does no good, and therefore
ought to be abandoned."'-Gardeners' C(Aronicle, 1848,
p. 83.
By J. 1TF. loberts, Gardener, Wc7akfieeld, Yorkshire.-~
5 Three years ago, I gardened not two miles from Wakefield, where I had two vineries, which had produced
little for years. - The vines in them  were nearly sixty




282          THE CULTURE OF THE'GRAPE.
years old. By permission of my employer, I re-made the
borders. In the first place, I took the vines carefully up,
and the border being in a very bad state, I drained it
well, refilling it with compost, Consisting of a portion of
carrion, leaf mould, turf from a pasture, and stable manure, and the result is, that, last year, these same vines
produced a capital crop of well-flavored finely colored
fruit, and made excellent wood.  Surely, this speaks volumes in favor of carrion.  Is not E. F. G. mistaken,
when he says that the vines in the neighborhood of Leeds
and Wakefield are falling off?  I have lived for nearly
twenty years in the neiglhborhood of Wakefield, and all
who have used carrion here, speak in high terms of its
favorable effects on their vines.  The use of carrion was
first suggested to me by reading Mr. Roberts's' Treatise
on the Vine,' than which I know of no more valuable
work on the subject, and for which I feel much indebted
to its author."- Gardeners' Chronicle, 1848, p. 102.
A. I-enderson is opposed to Mr. Roberts's plan, and
quotes Abbe Rozier, Chaptal, M. Bose, and other conti.
nental authors, who, it is well known, are opposed to all
crude manures for the vine, as proper authorities to be
relied upon as evidence of the bad effects of them. The
article is very long, but it contains nothing new.  It can
be found in the Gardeners' Chronicle, for 1848, p. 115.
Rem.arks on statemzent.s rnacde in the discussiozn.-The
first assertion by Bir. Elliott, in the communication which
commenced the controversy, is, that he found the young
shoots on the vines, newly planted, all dead for eight or
ten inches.  And he denies that the explanation given
him of the cause,-the burning by the sheet glass, —-ca




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.               283
be the correct one, and attributes it to putrefaction in the
border, baneful stimulants to the tender roots have arisen,
and the effect of such stimulants, according to this writer.
has been to kill the ends of the shoots.  Had this supposition been correct, that the cause was putrid matter
from the flesh of animals coming in contact with the
roots of the vine, I have no hesitation in asserting, from
what experience I have had in such matters, the result
would have been death to the vine,-the roots dying first,
the tops, last.  I have never known a vine affected in
this manner, when there was a possibility that the rich
soil could have been the cause; neither do I think that,
out of six hundred vines which I have planted under glass,
this singular disease ever seriously affected one vine. I
have had a few injured at the end of the cane, but it has
always occurred on some extremely hot and bright day,
when the very place on the skin of the shoot, which had
been burned by a defect in the glass, could be seen.  A
new shoot from the terminal eye has invariably pushed
and grown rapidly, showing that the cause was external,
and not with the roots or sap.  In the bright sunshine, I
do not see any good reason why the glass might not burn
the shoots in England as well as in the United States;
that it does burn here, there is no doubt; and Mr. Hovey,
in speaking of the exposure for the grapery, alludes to:
the necessity of having some protection from the scorching effects of the sun in summer, and mentions the
whiting the glass for this purpose. It is not unconmi.on
to see the young laterals, and even the main stalk of the
bunch of fruit I have sometimes found burned, on the
side next the glass, and so injured that I have deemed it




284          THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE,
best to cut it away.  That the gas, escaping from  fer.
menting manure and leaves, will destroy the foliage, I
have stated in my remarks on Mr. Roberts's plan.
The editor of the Chronicle states, that it is the "gaseous
results of decomposition, whose odors render vine borders, constructed on Mr. Roberts's plan, so intolerably disgusting."  (Article extracted as fiom the Chronicle, 1847,
page 851.)
This state of the border, when prepared either by Mlr.
Roberts's plan, or my own, never can exist in fact.  I
never have discovered the least odor from any border
after it was finished.  All manures in their crude state
are offensive, and, in collecting them for the border, or
the compost heap, the person so employed must be subject to the gases, be they more or less disagreeable.  I
contend that animal matter, when fresh, is less so than
any other manure. There is an erroneous opinion formed
of the condition of the border, founded upon the improper use of the word carrion (before noticed) by M/Ir.
Roberts, when he does not in reality use carrion or recommend its use until changed.
Dr. Lindley refers to an oak tree, which had been subjected to improper treatment, by the digging into the
soil, around and above its roots, of an undue quantity of
powerful manure from a cess-pool, with the result, to the
tree, (almost death,) which any skilful gardener would
have expected.  This gentleman certainly cannot intend
to compare this injudicious management with the comnpost formec  from carrion and soil, and the manner of
applying it, as recommended by Mr. Roberts.  For, he
immediately adds, "it is only when diluted that such




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.              285
manures acquire the high value which belongs to them,a just remark, not only in relation to the manure abbve
named; but to all the substances usually classed under
this head, such as the offal of all animals and birds, the
decayed matter from. flesh or fish, whether of the soft
material which dissolves, or of the bony substances which
are a long time in crumbling away, guano, poudrette,
&c.
Dr. Lindley refers to the plants in a greenhouse, that
were almost destroyed by the gases arising fiom the putrefying body of a hedgehog, and thinks that is proof
that the vines were injured at the ends of their shoots
by the gas from the carrion.  It may have been caused
by the confined air inside of this house, which prevented
the escape of this gas.  I must confess, that I think there
may have been some other cause, that affected the plants,
and produced the disease.  In the newly settled parts of
our country, it is customary to leave the dead bodies of
animals unburied.  I have never noticed any effect pro.
duced upon the foliage of tree or herb from the odor or
gas arising therefrom.  In the valley of the Connecticut,
where reside some of our best agriculturists, they manure the land with fiesh white fish, that are caught in
great quantities, (I believe in the spring season of the
year.) They spread them broadcast over the fields, and
any one who has ridden through this district, about tlis
time of application. can most assuredly say that the custom  "is not inviting," and can bear ample testimony
that the air is charged with gas from putrefying matter,
yet we hear of no bad effect fiom this; and, if a single
hedgehog in a greenhouse would kill plants, it would ap



286         THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
pear probable that thousands, and tens of thousands, of
these white fish, spread over the surface of the land,
would affect the foliage in the fields wherein they were
undergoing this change.
Dr. Lindley then says, c The vine-clressers of France
object to manure altogether."  I cannot pass this remark
by, without a direct denial of the assertion.  The gentleman himself does it effectually in the quotation he brings
forward froom Chaptal, and the continuation of the subject of manures by this French author, given under the
head of manures for vineyards, will still farther explain
the customs of the French.  My own belief is, that the
French manure their vineyards: that there are exceptions to this, it may be.  Chaptal, and other authors, are
opposed to the custom, I admit; but other persons, who
write what they have seen and know, state that they are
used.  Chaptal wishes to discourage the use of it, from
a belief that it injures the juice of the grape; that it increases the size of the berry, he admits, and that is what
all are endeavoring to obtain, when cultivating for the
table, and the plan of cultivation which will produce
this, without injury to the amount of the crop, flavor, or
color, of the fruit, is the best.
Dr. Lindley is of the opinion, that the grapes shown
by Mr. Gower, have surpassed those grown by Mr. Roberts.  From the printed account of them, I should have
preferred to have been the one who produced the six
kinds, named as having been shown by the latter. Three
of these varieties usually setting poorly, all of which
were sufficiently large, and the White Nice, (a kind that
makes a large bunch, but a light weighing fruit,) remark.




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.              287
ably so; they were all represented as having been beautiful.  Mr. Gower's, though his itarIburgh bunches were
large, were rather deficient in color,-a want that, in my
estimation, would make them unworthy to compete with
the first-named. To have a correct idea of this matter,
there should be some standard of quality to refer to. I
do not remember ever to have met with any such.  Mly
opinion of. the characteristics requisite to form  a fine
bunch of grapes, is, that the bunch be of medium bigness,
wvith the berries large, of an equal size, well colored, and
covered with a fine bloom.  Very large bunches are not
always so equally well flavored as lesser ones, and those
weighing from eight ounces to one pound each, are almost
always the best.  When exhibited at horticultural shows
however, large sized, if at the salme time these be well
colored, will invariably be considered the best.
The border that produced the grapes, which Dr. Lindley considers superior to those raised by Mr. Roberts, is
a very fine one, and not very unlike the compost recommended by me, to be used in a situation where it is necessary to remove all the oiiginal soil; but, in this border,
they use liquid manure; and this is universally the case,
when the border is composed of turf, without a large addition of bones or other manures. This application of
an offensive liquid upon the surface of the soil is, in my
estimation, more disagreeable than in burying it; and
when the rich border is properly made, rainwater is the
only application requisite for the roots on the outside of
the house. On the other hand, the border composed of
loam  and rotten sods, although excellent, requires this




288          THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
application of liquid manure, to cause the grapes to swell
off large and full.
This discussion of the subject of manures is well worthy
the attention of cultivators. Instead of supporting Mr.
Hovey's assertion, that experienced cultivators held the
same opinions as he did, respecting the " quackery, so
often recommended," as the use of oyster shells, or boiled
bones, dead cattle, etc., I am rather inclined to believe,
that the jdiciots use of them  is advocated; certainly,
it is admitted, that they are promoters of vegetation.
Chaptal even allows, that the effect of manure is to increase the growth of wood and fruit; but, he adds, the
effects are deceptive; for, after a time, the manure will
cease to act, and the vine will languish. But is not this
failure caused by neglecting  to renew  the manure?
Plant a vine in a new soil, a good loam for instance, it
will grow well, and bear fruit for some years, but soon
(as Chaptal says of the manured vine,) it will cease to
bear fruit, or only in a diminished degree. Renew this
soil by adding to it more loam  or manure, either as a
solid or liquid, and it will regain its former vigor. The
soil must be strengthened by yearly application of suitable matter.  That harm is done by improper manuring,
I have no doubt. If vines, when young, are too highly
mranured, and this stimulant is not constantly kept up,
they will fail to do well; and this is what I should most
fear from Mr. Roberts's system; not from the bodies of
animals deposited in the border, but from the manure
placed on the surface to produce heat.
Dr. Lindley, if I understand his language, does not
discourage the use of the articles named by Mr. Hovey,




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.             289
with the exception of carrion, and this only, as such, and
not to the use of it, as I have recommended, in the formation of the border. In the last article written by him,
on the subject, he says, " we readily admit, that, after a
time, the dead horses in the vine borders at Eshton,
ceasing to be dangerous, will become a potent and harmless manure."  By the authorities quoted, and the approval of other systems of border compost, which contain manures in large quantities in them, I apprehend
that Dr. Lindley, and other experienced cultivators, in
Europe, do not differ widely from me, in the opinion I
have formed, and in the practice which I have carried
out and recommended to the public.
It must be apparent to a thoughtful reader, that, when
I propose a substitute, to take the place of a soil so unsuitable as to require removal from the place where the
border is to be situated, that the compost named for the
purpose must be, in my opinion, in every respect, suited
for the welfare of the vines. Mr. Hovey, in his sweeping remarks, relative to rich borders, refers to myself;
as recommending the use of "' the carcasses of animals,
to such an extent as to cover the bottom of the border,
if they could be obtained."  His statement is correct;
but my views would have been better understood, if
some allusion had been made to the substitute. My
reasons for recommending the carcasses of animals, are
several,-such as the durability of their bones, the exciting nature and strength of the manure formed from
the decomposed fesh, etc., and their cheapness. In the
fall of the year, near large cities, it is frequently easy to
procure the bodies of horses, eitherl dead or living, for a
13




290          THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
mere trifle, —often they can be had free of cost, brought
to your place, and then killed, and the thanks of the
owners to you in addition, for providing a place of deposit, near at hand, for them, which otherwise might
occasion them some expense in their removal to a distance, or in burying them.  All bodies of animals, killed
accidentally, or by disease, are of no value in this country, but as manure, and when such can be had, there is
so much saved. On the contrary, the land that has been
skimmed of its turf, and three or four inches of its best
soil, (in this part of our country at least,) is almost ruined.
It is true, you may rob your own land, but, should your
garden be in the city, (as mine is situated,) you would
search many an hour before the proper pasture soil could
be obtained.  Knowing these difficulties in providing
suitable soil from a pasture, I, in the first place, gave the
directions for the compost, with the animal carcasses;
and then, in giving the substitute, presumed that it
would be understood, that I did not consider that it was
imperatively necessary that these materials, flesh and
all, should be incorporated into the border. That it is
best to do so, I firmly believe.
My first border was made in 1834, on a flooring of
stones; it was very rich; much slaughter-house manure, with many bones, were incorporated with the soil;
cow manure, and some lime, also, was added nearer the
surface.  This house has always had artificial heat applied to it; and, for the last ten years, has been forced
in December, and has never failed to produce a crop of
fruit. This season of 1848, the fruit was as fine as it
ever has been; the:bunches, many of them, weighing




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.              291
one and two pounds each; the berries were large, and
well colored. The second border was made a few years
after the first; the manures used were similar to the
above; but, instead of stones, the bottom of the border
was paved with bones, and well covered with them; the
vines have always done well, and ripened good crops of
fine fruit.  The third border was paved, at the bottom,
with stones, as whole bones could not be obtained.  The
manures, in this border, were entirely from  the barnyard, from horses and oxen; it was very coarse, having
much litter and old (Indian) cornstalks in it; the soil
was the garden loam, which had been freely manured
with  barn-yard  material; the  proportion of manure
added was one half, certainly, and perhaps rather more.
In this border, the vines have made the most rapid growth
of any that I have planted: but the fruit produced
therein, although very fair and well-colored, is not large,
the berries measuring two and a half to three and a half
inches round, for Hamburghs; while, in the houses,
where bones and slaughter-house manures, or the carcasses of animals are added to the compost, the berries
measure fiom three to four inches in circumference.
By far the largest part of my borders were made, since
the above, in 1843. Slaughter-house manures, bones, the
carcasses of animals, old mortar and bricks, oyster-shells,
horse and cow manure, old leather and loam, were added
in considerable quantities. I have not discovered any
reason for wishing to change the compost. At the end
of the house, in a space used for the furnace, no manure
was added on the outside, as the street of the city was
here, The soil was a good yellow loam, and, on the street,




292         THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
covered with gravel. To notice the difference in the fruiting and growing of the vines, when situated in this un'
prepared soil, as compared with the compost above, I
planted four vines, so situated that three of them would
send their roots into tie street in search of food. The
difference has been surprising. The vines planted in the
border have ripened three good crops of fruit; those in
the natural soil have not ripened a bunch, and, until this
year, have not even set a berry.  One vine, a Hamrburgh,
has, at present, a very small bunch upon it. The vines
have been pruned and well cared for, and I have no reason to suppose that they will not eventually yield a crop
of fair fruit; that they will be able to bear comparison
with the other grapes, in the same house, I do not expect.
In 1844, having occasion to make more border, and
having a large quantity of stable manure and old leaves,
which had been used for covering the roots of the vines
in winter, I thought this, if added to the soil in large
quantities, which was also a good loam, with some small
quantity of cow manure and bones, would insure me a
sufficiently good compost.  But it was a mistake; the
vines grew slowly, and not more than half of them fruited
the last season. This spring, I have enlarged the border
very much, and added strong manure, with many whole
bones and twenty bushels of ground ones, with one
hundred bushels of charcoal screenings, and as much
more old mortar and brickbats, with some considerable wood-ashes mixed with them. The vines are now
growing very well, and many, but not all of them, have
good ci(rps of fruit upon them. The fruit in this house
was small and well colored. In the autumn, watering




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.              293
with liquid manure was resorted to with good effect,
yet the difference was very much in favor of the border
with the carcasses.  More trials with like results, might
be added; however, if these have been properly stated,
-and I am certain that my object has been to obtain
facts, not to establish theories,-and that these trials
have resulted as above expressed, then there can be no
necessity for further testimony of mine, as it all tends the
same way, and the mere repetition of the trials would be
useless. The question now is, whether the experiments
have been fairly made.  I think they have; that climate
and other circumstances of soil and situation will vary, in
some degree, the results of similar trials in other localities
is very probable.
The effect of different manures in promoting the growth
of the roots of the vine.-This summer, I placed small
glass bottles, filled with rainwater, under the stems of
grape vines, that had roots about one and a half inches
long on them; they reached the water, touching it sufficiently to encourage the growth in the root; the bottles
were then secured in this position.  In seven days, the
roots had pushed strongly into the water. I then added
different manures, as liquids, to the water, in a very diluted state; the object being to have the roots of the vine
open to view, that the effect of the different manures in
producing rootlets or spongioles could be observed.
No. 1, had a grain of guano, in the powder, added;
the effect of this was, that, in forty-eight hours, the rootlets began to put out fromn the sides of the root, and to
consume the liquid. I then took a small teaspoonful of
the guano and mixed it with ha'f a gill of water, and, as




294         THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
the liquid was consumed by the roots in the bottle, it was
filled up with this. After a few applications of the guano,
the rootlets, which at first put forth and grew freely, ceased.
to grow, or to consume the liquid: they soon died, and,
on removing the bottle, I found them in a putrid state.
This experiment, though unsuccessful, was satisfactory,
as it confirmed the opinion I had formed of this manure,
that, when applied in a highly diluted form, it is valuable,
and that one cannot well be too cautious in using it.
The second experiment was simple rainwater; the root
in this grew very slowly, and in five or six weeks made
only three or four inches, with four rootlets, about one
inch long, each; they continued to grow until removed.
No. 3, was manured with the'liquid from a teaspoonful
of ashes from the wood of the grape, soaked in half a gill
of rainwater; the effect was sudden and great; and the
roots formed so fast, that, in three weeks, there were
thousands of feeders in the bottle, and, in bright days
it had to be filled morning and evening; it very soon
used up the first quantity, and had another supply furnished; this I cut off and planted out; it is now a growing plant in the border.
lo. 4, was manured with the extract from one pound
of cow manure, which had been under cover four years,
and never exposed to the weather; it was as free from
any offensive smell as the purest spring-water, and was
prepared by steeping several days, before using, and
was then strained into a bottle. The effect of this was
like the above,-from  the ashes: I could not perceive
any difference. This is also a plant now growing in the
border.




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.             295
No. 5, was the extract of meadow muck, which had
been under cover several years; one pound of the soil,
to which was added a very little pot-ash, was steeped in
water several days, and strained off into a bottle, and applied as the roots consumed the liquid. This afforded a
suitable food, and the spongioles continued to grow and
increase rapidly for three weeks, when they received a
check, and ceased growing, and were changing color;
the bottle was removed, and the roots placed carefully
into one filled with simple rainwater again; this saved
them, and they again began growing. The liquid, which
had before proved too powerful, was now supplied them;
as they consumed the water in the bottle, they grew as
rapidly as before the check, and formed a fine, strongrooted vine, which is now in the border.
No. 6, was manured with the liquid drainings from the
hog-pen; although very much diluted, the first application
destroyed the young roots. In renewing the trial, the
liquid which had caused this, was used as the same manure, still further diluted, and the effect was good; the
bottle was filled with roots.
No. T, was manured with the extract of the leaves and
young shoots, trimmings of the grape vine; these were
steeped a few days, and kept warm; when applied to the
water in the bottles, it was quite acid. This destroyed
life very soon, the acid being too powerful. On repeating
the experiiment, and after applying the same liquid, when
the acidity had passed away, the roots made with vigor
and rapidity; this formed a plant, now flourishing in
No. 8, was another trial with guano, in a more diluted




296          THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
form; it did not induce the forming of roots, as did some
of the others. The reason of this, undoubtedly, was the
powerful nature of this substance, which, in the exposed
circumstances of the roots, was, in all the trials, too
strong.
The cow manure and ashes had the most beneficial effect; that is, they caused the bottles to be filled, in the
least time, with roots and rootlets innumerable: although
the strength of the liquid was constantly increasing,
there did not appear to be any injurious effect therefrom.




LIST OF VARIETIES OF GRAPES.
THE following list is recommended for planting in the
retarding house, and in the proportions named. If the
number of vines to be planted is greater or less than
these, you can increase or decrease them by varieties that
ripen late, or those of the list given in greater numbers: —
Black Hamburgh, six vines, including with this variety
Wilmot's new Black Hamburgh, Victoria Black Hanm.
burgh, and the No. 16 Black Hamburgh.
Muscat of Alexandria, two vines.
Zinfindal, one vine.
Black Lombardy or West's St. Peter's, five vines.
Wortley Hall seedling, three vines.
Portien Noir, three vines.
Tottenham Park Muscat, one vine.
Syrian, three vines.
Black Damascus, one vine.
Black Prince, one vine.
Old Black St. Peter's, one vine.
Cannon Hall Muscat, one vine.
White Hamburgh, one vine.
Escholata Muscat, one vine.
White Nice, one vine.
Red Lombardy, one vine.
Queen of Nice, one vine.
13'




298          THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
Bowker, one vine.
Bishop, one vine.
Black Portugal or Ferrar, one vine.
Prince Albert, three vines.
VARIETIES MOST VALUABLE FOR GENERAL PLANTING.
For planting, I would recommend the different varieties of the Black Hamburgh grape as the best for the
greatest number of vines.
The Grizzly, the White and the Black Frontignan are
all admired by those persons who like the Muscat flavor;
they are liable to shrivel, and are lmore delicate than
other grapes, and do not keep well when ripe; the
Grizzly is the earliest of them.
The Muscat of Alexandria is a large oval grape; it
does not set well under glass, and requires artificial impregnation;* it is a firmn-fleshed or breaking grape, and
when well ripened, cannot be exceeded in richness.
The Tottenham  Park Muscat is very like the above,
but not so high flavored, it sets the berries better.
Portuguese Muscat is like the above, but is more
highly musk flavored.
Chasselas de Bar Sur Aube is a fine white grape, and
a good bearer.
Pitmaston White Cluster has rather small berries, but
is very early and good.
* Otis Johnson, Esq,, of Lynn, a successful cultivator of the grape, the
past year, allowed the shoots of this variety to grow at random until the
fruit was swelling, and he thinks the result of the experiment was favorable: the fruit set remarkably well




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.              299
Syrian, white, has very large bunches, sometimes
weighing twenty pounds.
The descriptive list of grapes annexed will enable any
one to select such sorts as his taste may dictate.
For a cold house, I would recommend the following,
and in proportion to the number named to each sort.
The most desirable are the first named:
Black Hamiburgh, ten vines.
Wilmot's new Black Hamnburgh, ten vines.
Wilmot's No. 16, ten vines. This may prove no better than the old variety.
Victoria Harmburgh, ten vines.
White Frontignan, two vines.
Grizzly Frontignan, two vines.
Pitmaston White Cluster, one vine.
Golden Chasselas, two vines.
Chasselas de Bar Sur Aube, one vine.
Rose Chasselas, one vine.
Red Chasselas, one vine.
White Gascoigne, one vine.
Royal Muscadine, one vine.
Red Traminer, one vine.
White Rissling, one vine.
Macready's Early White.
The last seven are equally valuable, and there are
many others as much so, as may be seen by referring to
the varieties.
For a forcing-house:The Black Hamburghe, in variety.
The Red, and thie Rose Chasselas.
Chasselas de Bar Sur Aube




300         THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE,
White Frontignan.
Black Frontignan.
Grizzly Frontignan.
Pitmaston White Cluster.
Golden Chasselas.
White Gascoigne.
Royal Muscadine.
Muscat of Alexandria.
Tottenham Park.
Zinfi cla1.
Cannon Hall Muscat.
Red Traminer.
Macready's Early White.
The Early Black July may be added, if it is desired
to get early grapes; this is a small grape, of a pleasant
flavor, but no earlier than the Pitmaston, and only des'rable for its color. They will both, if planted in the
warmest situation, come on together, and much before
the Black Hamburgh.  The Grizzly Frontignan and
Golden Chasselas are both very early.
These lists embrace a good number of the best varieties; there are several new kinds well spoken of, but
which have not been sufficiently tried, in this country,
to prove their qualities. The Chasselas Musque cracks
very much, thus far, and, if it should habitually do so,
will not be worth cultivation. The Muscat Blanc Hatif
(Early White Muscat,) is particularly recommended
abroad; but this has proved to be the same as the Chasselas Musque.
There are five or six more kinds which will be fully
proved in two or three years, but it is hardly probable




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.              801
there will be any thing better produced, for cultivation
under glass, than the best of the old kinds named above.
For large collections, almost any number of kinds may
be added. The Garden of the Luxembourg, at Paris,
numbers about five hundred varieties, many of them
worthless, and a great number only differing very little
in foliage, or in the time of ripening.
Luxembourg Gardens, Paris. —" Grape vines occupy
a prominent part in this horticultural school, the kinds
being very numerous, and the plants taking up a considerable proportion of the ground. Here are now assembled all the varieties of vine known to be cultivated in
France, or, I may say, in Europe. To the best of my
recollection, nearly three hundred varieties are named,
and as many more without names, which are regarded
by M. Bose as possessing characters sufficiently marked
to entitle them to rank as distinct.*  In general, there is
only one plant of each variety; but the Chasselas de
Fontainebleau is an exception, there being a long row of
this on one side of the garden.  It is the favorite variety,
and has been justly styled the' raisin de table par excellence,' of the French. At Fontainebleau, the vines grow
on a light sandy soil, and the grapes are sweeter than
those produced on a heavy soil.
The varieties of table grapes are few in number, perhaps scarcely exceeding twenty; the great mass of kinds
consisting of sorts cultivated in the vignobles, in the
various departments of France, in Italy, Spain, and Germany. Many of these approach in character very near
* Under Napoleon, Chaptal collected in this garden fourteen hundred
varieties.




302         THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
to each other; and it frequently happens, as with our
orchard fruits, that the same kind is known under different names in different districts."t-Ilorticultural Tour,
Edinburgh.
The following list* contains the new varieties, with the
valuable older ones recently brought to notice, part of
which have not yet been proved in this country:
[ Blac7ck  cHamburgh.-The bunches are  large and
shouldered, the berries black and roundish; it is unnecessary to say more, as it is universally known to be
the best variety for general cultivation under glass.
t Escho/atca luscat.-This is a seedling of the Muscat of Alexandria. This variety, which Mr. Thompson
makes a synonyme of the Muscat of Alexandria, was
shown at the exhibition of the London Horticultural Society, September, 1847.  Although distinct, it is said to
resemble that variety; the berries have a pink tinge.
The Esperione is supposed to have been one of its parents.
This grape was brought into notice by Mr. Money.  It
keeps well.
5 Chasselas  lXfusqu6  White. -Cracks badly; but,
when grown in a part of the grapery where there is a
free circulation of air, it does well in usual seasons.  At
Enghien, seat of the Due d'Aremberg, " we found the
Chasselas MIusque trained along the front of the house
possessed by the chamberlain, and we were told that, before the end of October, the grapes seldom fail to ripen
fully, and to acquire their musky flavor."-Hort. Tour,
Edinburgh. 1823.
* The grapes marked with a T, have been proved in this country to be
true to the descrip+ton.




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.                     303
~ Cannon Hall Miuscat.-Sets badly;  requires artificial impregnation; the berries are white, large and
very handsome, and high flavored.  A late variety.
~T Bloom  WRaisin Seedling.-A coarse late white variety; sets badly.
~  Wilmot'8s  New   Black  llamnburgh. —Has  large,
round, very black berries, with a hamlnered appearance.
It is uncertain in quality, often fine, but as often too astringent; it requires always to hang long after it has
colored, before cutting; in a poor situation it does not
set well.
Wmlmot's No. 16. —Has proved fine; it is a variety
of the Black  Hambuurgh, and  often  cannot be distinguished from i.
Bltssard Noir.
T Chasselas Ilatif Petit.-Too small to be worthy of
cultivation.
~  White Hcamburgh.-A  very handsome grape, with
large  bunches; the berries are oval; it is of second
quality.
T Pitmaston White Cluster.-A very fine early variety; the bunch is of a medium  size, the berries are round
and compact; this is a desirable variety.  The Scotch
White Cluster is the same as this, or very much like it.
~ Black Lorabardy.-A  fine late grape; this is the
same as West's St. Peter's; esteemed by those who prefer a sprightly flavor mingled with the sweet.
* When a vine in the spring has fruit clusters in large numbers on the
young shoots, it is said to " show fruit well." A vine may do this and yet
be an unproductive variety,-as in the blossom, some kinds, under unfavorable circumstances, do not set their fruit: that is, the seed is not impregnated, and, when this is the case, the berry remains small.




304         THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
[ Victoria Hamamburgh.-This is said to be a synonyme of the old kind; but there have been specimens
exhibited which certainly appeared different. This variety is now reported as exhibited in England, and there
is no doubt that it is an improved variety of the old
Hamburgh.
I Muluscat of Lunel.-This is a variety of the Muscat
of Alexandria, grown in a district of France, and with
smaller berries.
T Tokay, Oharlsworth.-Excellent, with a Muscat flaVor. The Gardeners' Chronicle for 1847, page 624, says,
perhaps it is not different from the White Muscat of
Alexandria.  Tile grape which I received under this
name from England is more like the White Frontignan,
but one month later than that kind
~ Wortley IHall Seedling. —A  good, and very late
grape, with oval black berries; subject to crack, in some
seasons.
T Bed Traminer.-Good, with small round berries;
has twenty synonymes. A  much esteemed wine grape
on the river Maine.
~ Rissling White.-Ripens in the open air; the berries
are small, and the flavor good. This is much esteemed
as a wine grape near the Rhine; it has twenty-two syno.
nymes.
1.lacck Tripoi. —Has round berries, not unlike the
Black Hamburgh.
[ Black Prolfic. —Has round berries, with large
bunches. It is good, but does not keep well, and ripens
unequally.
~ Palestine Grape -The bunches of this variety are




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.              305
enormous, and the berries are oval, small, and white;
the shoulders, or stems, are very long, and the berries
are in clusters, at long intervals; by no means a valuable
grape.
Sucabi.
Liverden.
Fromental.
~ Florentine,.-Very like Black July.
Falanchinza.
~ August 2Jusccat.-A seedling raised by M. Vibert,
of Angers, in France, from  the grape called there the
Frankantal, (supposed to ie,what we call the Black Hamburgh, as it usually proves so, when ordered from
France;) it is a very weak growing vine; the fruit is
black, of Muscat flavor, and is said to mature its fruit
earlier than any other grape; a vine in my grapery has
fruited the past summer, and the fruit was small and
poor. It is undoubtedly the earliest grape grown, and
will ripen its fruit, when highly forced, in three months.
X iMcalvasia, Early WMite.-This is very like the Pitmaston.
~ Golden CGhasselas.-Has a very large round berry,
with a large bunch, and is very handsome; sets poorly
and cracks; ripens early, before the other Chasselas
kinds. This grape varies more than any other sort in
its ripening.  Vines, raised from the same plant, grown
by myself, and never out of my promises, and equally
well situated in a cold grapery, differ twenty days in
the time of ripening their fruit this season of 1848.
Aleppc. -The bunches are large; it is a good bearer,




006          THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
and a good grape; the berries often equally divided, one
half being black, and the other half white.  Thompson
gives eight synonymes, and Prince nine of this.
[ White Nice.-Has very large bunches, with small
berries.  The quality is good.  The bunches are very
like the Royal Muscadine.
~ Esperione.-The berries are small and black, and
the bunches very large, of third quality.
~ WRed Chasselas.-This is a good bearer with a fine
flavor; the berries are as large as those of the Bar Sur
Anbe.  This may be distinguished from  the Rose, or
Violet Chasselas, from  the singularity of the berries,
which are colored from  their first formation; at maturity, it is sometimes highly colored, but, not unfrequently,
is of a pale red; the young shoots are bright red.
~] Grosse Noi2r of Lorraine.-A  vine sent me as this,
has proved very like Black July.
]Deconh's Superb. —A white grape with oval berries,
very handsome, but ripens badly; half the fruit is often
sour and worthless.
T Pr~ince Albert.-This variety will fruit this season
in this country.  " Royal Albert grape forms a large,
rather loosely shouldered bunch, with black, somewhat
oval berries, and is later than the Black llamburgh.  It
requires to be compared with the large Black Ferrar, for
probably, it may be found not different." —Gareners'
Chr.onicle, 1846, page 344.  It is distinct from  the variety grown by this name here.
~' Queen of gice.-This is a handsome fruit, with
large bunches and berries, but it is said to be a small
bearer;. the berries are white, or greenish, and tinged




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.               307
with a red or rose color, and, when exposed to the sun,
more highly colored.  This proves a shy bearer in the
forcing house, but has done well in the retarding.
~  Violet Muscat.-A grape by this name, fruited by
me, has oval berries, but no Muscat flavor, and a poor
bearer.
T Grosse Perle Blanche.-Sets badly, and has no partictlar value, with oval white berries.
I[ Xeres.-This has proved to be the same as White
TNice.
[ Black Jforse-Is like Black Ilamburgh.
~ Purple Xuscat.-Has not the flavor of the Muscat,
and is a poor learer; sets badly.
Autstrian, Miuscat.-Is not unlike the Grizzly; in
flavor and color, it promises to be fine; the berry, when
growing, is oval, and changes to round, or nearly so, at
maturity.
~ S. Charges Henling.-A  black variety; the berries
are very small, of good flavor, and remain sound for a
long time after maturity.
~I Portien NToir.-A large roundish, black grape; remarkably handsome, of peculiar flavor, and very late.
~ GQros Coulard.-Has large white grapes and is early,
ripened its fruit in my grapery in 1852.
~ Bishop.-Is very like the Portien Noir.
St. Peter's of Aliers.-The berries are large and
oval.
T Caillabee.-A  white sweet water, of no value for
grapery.
Partridge Foot.




808         THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
a Garden Tokay.-Red, with small, but very sweet
and rich sweet water flavored berries.
FIcansteretto. —Black; does not set well; this has
oval berries.  Not worth cultivation.
Black iMulscat of Alexandria.
Red Chcasselas of Vibert.-This is supposed to be a
hybrid of the Isabella and Chasselas.
~ Chaptal.-This is another seedling of MI. Vibert,
with large, white, oval berries.  Sets very badly, and
worthless for forcing.
Mfadelaine of Vibert.-Has berries of medium size and
oval.
Grosse Perle Blanche de Semis.-Seedling of Vibert;
said to have very large bunches, and the berries uncommonly large and nearly round. Two other varieties,
from seed, by M. Vibert, with black-colored fruit, which
he calls Nos. 3 and 4, are early; but, as he does not
mention them  as particularly good, it may be presumed
that their quality is not remarkable.
~[ Lombardy Red.-This is a late grape, with very
large bunches, and is the same as the flame-colored
Tokay.
Zinftndal.-The bunches are large, often with two
shoulders on the same side nearly as large as the main
bunch; the berries are medium  size, round, and very
black, with a thick bloom; requires to hang several
weeks after coloring before it is ripe. I cannot find this
grape described in any book. Prince, in his treatise,
mlentions, as a new grape from Hungary, one named Zinfardel; this may be the same.
~ Black Darmascus.-The berries are large, oval, and




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.               309
of a black color; does not set well, otherwise it would
be a most valuable kind.
[ Dutch Sweetwater.-The berries are large, round,
and of a white color; when exposed to the sun, of a
russet tinge; it is a pleasant grape.*
[ White Tokay.-The  berries incline  to  an oval
figure; in flavor, like the Chasselas.  The underside of
the leaf has a fine down.  Not so early as the Chasselas;
shrivels badly.
~ _Ractsin de Calabre.-A  white grape of a musk
flavor, valuable for hanging late.
~ Black Morocco.-The bunches are large, and dark
red or black; the berries are oval; it is of second quality, sets badly.
I Miuscat of Alexandria.-The bunches are large, and
the berries are loose, oval, and when perfectly ripe, of
an amber color; the flesh is crisp, and highly flavored;
it does not set well, and requires artificial impregnation.
A late variety.
~I Tottenhamar Park _uscat,  WAite. —Is like the above,
but sets its fruit better. Not so highly musk flavored.
~ Sweetwater, WThite.-The bunch is open, the berries
are rounld, the skin is thin; this is a good grape, but
does not always set well.
Syriac, TWdite.-The bunches are very large, sometimes weighing twenty pounds.  The berries are oval,
and the flesh firm, and, when allowed to hang until of
an amber color, very good.  It requires a long time, with
much heat, to perfect its fruit.
* A grape, under the name of the " New Dutch Sweetwater," was exhibited at the Horticultural Society's Room, London, April 2Cth, 1847.




310         THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
~ Verdclho.-This is a small, oval, white grape, of the
finest quality. The vine is a very strong grower, and
bears great crops.  It is a favorite variety for the table,
as well as for wine in Madeira and the Azores.  It is a
later grape than the Black Hamburgh.
Blanche.-Is an early sort, with greenish white, and
oval berries, thin skinned and sweet.
Ij White Gascoignc.-A fine white grape; the bunches
are quite large and compact, with shoulders; the berries
are inclining to oval, are subject to crack in moist weather, and do not keep well after fully ripe.
Bordelais or Bourdelas.-A  very delicate grape that
requires a high temperature, and a long season to bring
it to maturity; the berries are oblong, and the bunches
are very large.
~   ulascat Blanc IIatif.-A grape by this name, lately
received as a new kind from  France, has proved the
Chasselas IMusqu6.
Black Tokay.-A wine grape.
Alexandriadn Ciotat.-The bunches are large; the berries are white, of an oval form, with a thin skin. This is
a sweet grape, but sets badly; do not think it worthy a
place in a grapery, but it may prove valuable, for open
culture, in the southern States.
~ Black Cluster.-The bunches and berries are small;
the latter vary in shape,-oval and round are usually
found in the same bunch; they grow very close together,
(as is the case with all cluster grapes,) and often, by their
own pressure, burst the skin, causing rot, which soon
spreads through the whole bunch.




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.               811' Black July.-Very  much like the Black Cluster.
An e1arly variety.
I Miller'8s Burgundy.-The fruit is like the two preceding, but it is distinguishable from  the above by the
white down on its leaves, from  the mealy appearance of
which it has derived its name.  Of the three preceding
varieties, Mir. Thompson gives eighty-four synonylmes,
and adds two varieties as distinct: the Scarlet-leaved
Black Cluster, a wine grape of poor quality, and the
Black Cluster, nice, which he represents as loose growing. These three, the Black Cluster, the Black July,
and Miller's Burgundy, so far as the fruit is concerned,
may be considered the same; they color early and rapidly, and, when perfectly black, are as sour as any one
could wish; by hanging four or five weeks, they become
very good; but they are so small, and require so much
thinning, and usually having five large seeds, that they
can hardly be deemed worthy a place in the grapery.
~T Black Prinoe.-The bunches are long, and often
shouldered; the berries are oval, of a good size, and
color well; this is a good grape; it sometimes cracks;
the skin is thick, and, in this respect, is inferior to the
Black St. Peter's.  It sometimes keeps well on the vine;
at other seasons it rots badly.
~ Black St. Peter's. —The bunches are large, long, and
sometimes shouldered; the berries color well, and have
a thin skin; this grape also sometimes cracks.  It hangs
well after it is ripe, and is, on this account, one of the
most valuable grown in the grapery.  I find the keeping
qualities of this grape uncertain; it some years decays
suddenly after it is fully ripe.




312         THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
~ Whte Bual.-The bunch is compact; the berries
obovate, white, and thick skinned; late and good.
Knight's Variegated Chasselas. —This is said to resemble the Aleppo; the bunches are loose, and the berries are round and sweet, with a thin skin } it is of second
quality.
CUhasselas, Rose or Violet.-This is a good grape;
in the appearance of the bunch, and in every other respect but color, resembling the Chasselas of Fontainebleau; when ripe, it is of a rich red, or rose color.
T Chasselas de Bar Sur Aiube.-This grape has very
large long bunches; the berries are round, of medium
size, and, when fully ripe, of an amber color. When
pruned upon the long-cane system, I have had bunches
measuring fourteen inches in length; it seldom shoulders.
a Chasselas of Fontainebleau and the White Chasselas, appear to be alike in every particular. They differ
from the above in the shape of the bunch, which is often
shouldered.
~ Royal MXuscadine.-This grape, in respect to the
size, color, and flavor of the fruit, or berry, corresponds
exactly with the Chasselas de Bar Sur Aube, Chasselas
of Fontainebleau, and with the Early White Muscadine
of the French, yet, in the size of the bunch, it is quite
distinct; the Royal Muscadine growing to a very large
size, and having large shoulders, the bunches often weighing four, five, and six pounds.
Early  r/White Mf/uscadine.-This is a variety of the
Chasselas, and in no way distinguishable from the White,
or Chasselas of Fontainebleau, except in the time of
ripening, which may be ten days earlier. I have culti



THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.             313
vated several other varieties of French grapes, sent over
as distinct, but cannot discover any difference in them
from the above; all the White Chasselas grapes, when
perfectly matured, change to a golden, or amber hue,
if grown in a situation fully exposed to the sun. Mr.
Thompson gives twelve synonymes of this grape, and
classes the Chasselas of Fontainebleau and White Chasselas with them. But there is no question that the grapes,
cultivated in this country under the names of Royal
Muscadine and Chasselas de Fontainebleau, are quite
distinct.
1 Josling's St. Alban's.-Has proved to be Chasselas
Musque6.
Sahibee.-An East Indian variety, introduced to the
Horticultural Society's Garden, Turnham Green, by Col.
Sykes. It is stated to be an abundant bearer. The
bunches are said to be large, shouldered like the Black
Hamburgh, and quite as handsome; the berries are oval,
about the size of the Muscats, without that flavor, and
have a fine rosy tinge on the side next the sun.-Gardeners' Chronicle, 1847, page 511. The color of this grape
corresponds somewhat with that of the grape described
as Queen of Nice.
Bowker.-This is a grape raised in the garden of
Joel Bowker, Esq., of Salem, Massachusetts, from  the
seed of the Bloom Raisin, imported from Malaga. It is
a great bearer, the fruit handsome, the bunch large,
closely set, berries roundish, inclining to oval, white, and
of a pleasant flavor, without any musk. It is quite as
handsome as the White Hamburgh, and a better fruit;
it succeeds best in a poor soil.
14




314         THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
Corinth, BIlacle. —This is a small round grape, of
second quality, from which is made the black currant of
commerce.
Corinth, White.-This is also small; the  color is
white; from this grape is made the Sultana, or Seedless
raisin.  According to Mr. Thompson, there are fifteen
synonymes of this.
Cornicfhon Blanc.-A  grape of second quality; it is
said to keep well; the skil is thick, the flavor sweet, and
the bunch large and loose; form of the berries elliptical.
Mr. Thompson gives fourteen synonymes of this variety,
and Mr. Prince, five.
- De C(andolle.-This grape has a round berry, and is
of a reddish color. It is valuable as a table fruit; it
ripened in my grapery in 1848, and has very large
bunches.
~ Ferrar, -Blacc.-This grape was received from Portugal.  The bunches are quite large; the berries are oval,
compact, and very black, of medium  size; the flavor is
peculiar, not unlike that of the cherry; the flesh is breaking, or crisp; it is not generally esteemed, but very much
liked by some. It is a very handsome variety.
Blcacko Fronlignan.-This is a fine early grape, of
Muscat flavor; the bunch is long, the berry is round and
black, and of medium  size. Mr. Thompson gives thirteen synonymes of it.
Blue Frontignan.-This is a good grape of a slightly
MIuscat flavor; the berries are roundish, and not so large
as the Grizzly, or White Frontignan.  The Violet Frontignan and Black Constantia are synonymes of this.
~I Grizzly Frontignan.-The bunches are of a good




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.              315
size; the berries are round and colored, as the name designates; it ripens early, and is one of the richest Muscat-flavored grapes.  According to Mr. Thompson, there
are thirteen synonymes to this.
~.  White Frontignan.-This variety has bunches often
quite large; the berries are round, and, when fully ripened in an exposure to the sun, are of an amber color.
The Black, White, and the Grizzly are, in flavor, very
much alike, when grown under the most favorable circumstances, so far as respects quality; but, for a variety
in color, it is desirable to have the three; the Grizzly is
the earliest of them.  The synonymes are twenty-two in
number.
Gros Rouge de Provence.-The bunches are loose; the
berries roundish and black, and of second quality.
Petersburgh. —A black grape, with loose bunches; the
berries are round, the skin thick, and the flavor sweet.
Lechrmere's Seedling.-Has proved the same as Macready's Early White.
Grosse Guillaume.
Longford's Incomparable.
Schiras.-This is said to be a very fine grape lately
received from Persia.
T Poonah. —This is a large, late black grape, very
handsome, and of second quality.
~S Morinet.-A grape recently received from France.
It has a long, loose bunch, with oval, white berries;
fruited, in 1848, in the collection of Messrs. Hovey
& Co.
~ [facready's Early White.-This is a new variety;
it has been fruited the past few years.  It is a whita




61 6         THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
grape, with an oval and rather small berry.  I do not
consider it any better than the Pitmaston.: Portuguese Jifuscat.-A  variety of the Muscat of
Alexandria; it is more musque-fiavored, and sets its
fruit better.
~ De Rhinelander. —This is a white grape, and said
to be hardy; under glass, it has proved not unlike White
Chasselas.
~ Ccmbridge Botanic (carden Grcape. —This fruit is
black, and esteemed by many as quite equal to the Black
Hamburgh; it has been fruited in this country by R.
L. Colt, Esq., of Paterson, N.J.
Barbarossa. —This is a new black grape, advertised
for sale in England. It is represented as having berries
as large as the Hamburgh.
~ Gross Bleu. —A  new  grape, very like the Black
Hamburgh.  Messrs. Hovey, who have fruited it, state
the foliage to be quite different, however.
5 Gross Gromier du can ti.-Parsons  &  Co., of
Flushing, near New  York, have fruited this variety.
They represent it as of second quality, but a great
bearer; color,: foxy purple; berries a little larger than
the Red Chasselas.  From  the first description of this
new  grape in Europe, I have been of opinion, that it
would prove a synonyme of De Candolle, or Flame
Colored Tokay.
~  Chasselas de Florence.-This new grape was proved
in IHartford, Conn., last season, (1852,) in the grapery of
Charles L. Porter, Esq.  This gentleman says, " It is a
fine Chassecls, equal, perhaps, to the Bar Sur Aube, and
of the same character."




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.              31T
f Jfuscat Fleur d''Orange.-This grape came from
the French gardeners, who spoke of it as the best of all
Muscats.  So far as the first year's trial is any evidence,
it is hardly worth cultivation.  The berries are oval,
with a little musky flavor; skin less thick than the Muscat of Alexandria, color the same.  It cracks a good
deal, and seems to partake of the character of the
Musque Chasselas.  This fruited in 1852, in the collection of Mr. Porter, who furnished me with the above
descriptions.
Bronze Grape. —This name is given to a fruit seen and
eaten in Syria by J. V. C. Smith, M[.D., of Boston, who
saved the seed and brought them to this country, presenting them  to the Massachusetts Horticultural Society
for distribution.  I raised several vines from the seed
coming to me. Having compared the foliage with the
Syrian, Muscat of Alexandria, and Queen of Nice, kinds
which I thought it most probable to be, find it quite unlike either of themn and the chances are in favor of obtaining a new and valuable variety.
TMusqu,6  Verdel. —This is a seedling of my own, a
cross, naturally, of Verdelho and Grizzly Frontignan, and
partakes of the marked peculiarities of these grapes,
being musque-flavored, and having the thin, rich pulp of
the Verdelho.  Thus far, the berry has been rather
small, under size, but as it yearly improves, hope it may
prove valuable.
Seedlings.-I have many seedlings not named, that
have fruited the past years of 1850, to 1852, inclusive.
They resemble the White Chasselas and Black Hamburgh, generally; one, from  seed of Wilmot's Black




S18        THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
Hamlburgh, is very handsome, but more soul than the
original.  Mr. Amos W. Stetson, of East Braintree,
Mass., has many seedlings from  the foreign varieties
coming into fruit. This gentleman exhibited a bunch
last season from  seed of the Grizzly Frontignan, no
doubt crossed with the Black Hamburgh.  It ripened
early; was very  black, medium  sized, and of rich,
sprightly musque flavor. Several other persons have
seedling vines coming into bearing, and a few years will
show if we have anything to hope from these efforts of
hybridizing. These same gentlemen have, many of them,
Hybrid Grapes in bearing, or coming into fruit this summer of 1853, of crosses between the Vitis Vinifera, or
European sorts, and the Vitis Labrusca, or American
species. Judging from the variety of wood and foliage of
these new grapes, it does seem, that the prospect is very
good, that we shall soon have native hardy grapes that
will ripen in open culture. Some of these will be de.
scribed in the list of American species.
VITIS LABRuSCA.-There are several American species
of the grape, according to Prince; and the same author
gives over one hundred varieties of this species. For
general cultivation, the first two on the list are the most
valuable ones.
Isabella.-This is a native of South Carolina.  Mr.
Prince, in his Treatise on the Vine, says that this grape
is named in honor of Mrs. Isabella Gibbs, who introduced
it into cultivation in New York. The berries are black
and oval; the bunches are of a medium size; it has a foxy
flavor.




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.              319
Catawba.-This grape is said, by Mr. Adlum, to be
a native of Maryland.  It is one of the hardiest and most
productive of the American varieties. - The berries are
red, or purple, inclining to black. These two varieties
are now so extensively cultivated, and their good qualities
as table fruit and for wine are so well established, that it
is unnecessary to say more of them. It also has the foxy
flavor, and requires a longer season than the Isabella.
Bland.-This is one of the best native grapes. It has
less of the foxy flavor than the Isabella and Catawba; it
is not a great bearer, and will not ripen in Massachusetts.
Dianac.-A seedling raised in Massachusetts from the
Catawba. It resembles its parent, and is ten days earlier,
and will ripen in seasons when the Isabella and Catawba,
similarly situated, will not; a strong recommendation in
its favor.
Elsingburygh.A  good flavored, very small grape.
This is valued by many for the table; it is free from the
foxy flavor.
Lenoir.-A very excellent table grape; perhaps superior to any of those described. It is believed to be a
seedling of the Burgundy grape. It has very much the
habit of a foreign vine. The bunches are very handsome,
large, compact, and not much shouldered." —Downing's
Frztits and Fruit Trees of America.  This grape is not
known much in Massachusetts.
Xorton's Virginiqa.- Vitis Nortoni, Prince, (small.
A native of Richmond, Virginia; said to be a cross between the Bland and Miller's Burgundy; it was raised
by Dr.:N. Norton.  Mr. Downing says it is very productive in the garden, or vineyard, especially at the south.




320         THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
where many kinds rot. In Massachusetts, it is a small
bearer compared with the Isabella; this may be owing
to the wood of the vine not ripening perfectly, in consequence ol the shortness of the season.
Ohio. —This grape has been introduced into cultivation
by N. Longworth, Esq., of Cincinnati. The bunches are
large and long, the berries small, round, and black, the
flesh tender, juicy and sweet.
Scuppernong.-Is a distinct species found growing wild
from Virginia to Florida; there are two kinds, the black
and white. The bunches are small, usually of five or six
berries, which are large and round. It is quite tender,
and will not live at the north. See description of this in.North Carolina vineyard account, and in Florida vineyard
culture. The Honorable A. G. Semmes, of Quincy, Florida, says this grape is a native of Greece, and is known
there as the Alaric, and that the richest wines are made
from it.
MXissouri. —  itis lissouriensis,  Prince.  A  grape
nsed for making wine in Ohio.
Herbemonzt's Xalde&ira.-Ised also for making wine.
Alexander's. —A wine grape, native of Pennsylvania.
Sage. —This grape was found by Mr. Henry E. Sage, of
Portland, Connecticut, growing wild on the margin of a
small stream, and was removed by him to his garden, as
early as 1811. It is represented to be near a lilac color.
From Mr. William Leonard, of the Shaker Society, I received two vines, and an account of the fruit and of the
well-established reputation which it has in the vicinity
where it was found. Mr. Leonard made a visit to the
place, and saw the plant in fruit: he measured sone




THE CULTURE  OF THE  GRAPE.                      321
berries, which he found four inches in circumference.
At the nurseries of the Shaker Society, Harvard, vines
of this grape may be found on sale, and, probably, at the
farm  of Mr. Sage, Portland, Connecticut.   The foliage
blighted badly in my garden in July, 1848.  In  the autumn of 1852, Mr. Sage sent me a quantity of the fruit
of this vine. It is the best Fox Grape I have ever eaten,
and, when fully ripe, has but little pulp. It will be
esteemed by those fond of the peculiar flavor of our
native grapes, and disliked by others of opposing tastes.*
* The following are extracts from two letters of Mr. Sage to Mr. Leonard,
giving its history, etc.:"Portland, Oct. 1st, 1846.-The vine was taken from the margin of a
small stream, in quite a secluded spot, some thirty-five years since, and has
been a constant bearer many seasons, yielding in great profusion.
" Perhaps I shall be considered selfish, but must say they are the richest
flavored grapes I have ever tasted. The pulp is very soft and juicy. They
commemneed ripening about two weeks since, and are now dead ripe; they
will not drop from the vine when ripe, as many grapes do, but will remain
(unless gathered,) until they get perfectly dry, and their flavor is so very
rich, that a few bunches, in a room, will perfume it for months. For making jelly they are not surpassed. H. E. SAGE."
" Portland, April 8th, 1848.-I this day received your line requesting information about the'Sage Grape.' In answer to your inquiry,'Is it a
great and constant bearer?' I would say it is a constant bearer, and would
be a prolific one, were if not for the rose bugs, which have almost wholly
destroyed them for some years; it always blossoms full, and, just at this
stage, the bugs appear to make their havoc.
" Seasons when not destroyed, the vine has been borne down with the
fruit, probably as many as twenty bushels have been gathered from the
vine which you saw; the bunches, in such seasons, are large and full; the
berries very round, and their average girth three inches, and many of them
much larger.
" The soil of my garden is rather of a dry, loamy nature, and brings forth
vegetation pretty early. I have never used any kind of manure for my
vine, and have scarcely taken the trouble to build a place for it to ran
upon.
"I would recommend rather a dry soil for its cultivation, and in a situa-'14*




322           THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
Shurtleff8s Seedling. —The description of this grape ia
in the words of Dr. Shurtleff, who furnished the account,
at my  request, for this purpose.  A  gentleman  who
fruited this last year, represented it as being very good.' It came up in my garden in Brookline, in 1837. The
plant was of a delicate and slow growth; it fruited on the
fourth year, and, on the fifth, it bore about four quarts of
grapes of superior flavor; and the berry was of a good
size, perfectly round, about the size. of a Muscadine; the
bunches of moderate bigness, and well set (unlike the wild
fox grape); the stern pressed out like the Isabella; the
color black, with a peculiar ray, like the spokes of a wheel,
running from the stem  to the eye of a lighter shade, the
whole grape covered with a bloom; it puts out two or
three weeks later than the Isabella, and ripens two or
three weeks earlier.   The vine is a small grower, and
lives with me without protection; it is situated on a
southeast angle of my house. The third year of bearing,
it was, unfortunately, split near the ground, and the prospect of a good crop blasted.  I have several young vines
which will probably bear this year.  The fruit is free from
any foxy taste or pulp. I think it far superior to any
native grape that I have seen.  I do not know from what
seed it originated, whether from  native or imported; it
tion where the sun would strike it fair; the south side of a building would
be preferable, and, if the soil is rich, I think it will do as well without manure as with it. I believe the dryer the soil, the sweeter will be the fruit.
"A vine which was cultivated from a plant from my garden, four years
ago, bore profusely last season, and flourishes beyond calculation; it is
placed on the south side of a house, and forms an arbor to the entrance of
two tenements.
" In great haste, dear sir, I believe I have answered your inquiries.
"HIENRY E. SAGE."




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.             323
appears to partake of the Sweetwater and Isabella in its
rich flavor.                      S. A. SHURTLEFF."
The foliage of this grape would indicate that it originated
from an American variety.
Dr. Shurtleff has another grape. It originated at Carver, on a farm belonging to this gentleman (and which
has always been in the possession of his ancestors, since
the settlement of the country).  It was found in the
woods, far from any other vine.  The foliage indicates
this to be a seedling from an American variety.
Naumkeag.-A seedling grape raised from the Isabella
by Mr. Bowker, of Salem, which fruited, the first time,
(in 1848,) appears to have good qualities. It bore a large
crop, which ripened rather earlier than its parent; the
bunches resemble it in form and flavor; it has a pulp
also; the berries are above medium size, round, and of a
clear red, with a slight bloom.
Mr. Amos W. Stetson, of East Braintree, Massachusetts,
has several seedling vines of promise; they are hybrids.
The female plant used, being a large native red grape of
the forest, impregnated with the pollen of Black Iamburgh, Sweetwater, Catawba and Isabella.
He numbers them one to six. Number four ripened
its fruit early in September, fourteen days sooner than the
Isabella; they are represented as being very hardy, great
growers, and very prolific. The fruit resembles the Isabella, the bunch and berry being in shape and size like
it. The fox flavor of the native is retained, probably in
a greater degree than most people would like.
Another cross upon this, of the foreign kinds, would
probably prod ice a hardy fruit, with less of this fox flavor,




324         THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
and the seeds of it, without foreign impregnation, would,
most likely, yield other varieties, as a fruit, when it has
once sported from the original, is almost sure to continue,
generation to generation, to do so.
CEarly Ambner, is the name given to a native grape recently brought to notice by the Shakers at their nurseries,
Harvard. The specimens of fruit sent me, closely resembled the Rose Chasselas, and were free of pulp and fox
flavor. It is the best native fruit that I have yet met
with. It is said to be hardy, not subject to mildew, and
several weeks earlier than the Isabella. If, on extensive
trial, all this prove true, we have an invaluable acquisition.
Win. W. Valk, MI.D., of Flushing, Long Island, New
York, has succeeded in raising a grape of much promise,
by hybridization.  He fertilised the Black Hamburgh
with the pollen of the Isabella, differing from the plan
pursued by Mr. Stetson and myself. We used the Isabella and native wild grape as the female, and fertilised
with the Black. Hamburgh and other foreign kinds.
Dr. Valk says it is hardy, the fruit is thin skinned, with
a soft and pleasant pulp, wholly unlike the Isabella, and
equal to the Hamburgh in every thing but size.  The
foliage resembles the Hamburgh, though some think it
distinct.
There are several other native American seedlings in
this vicinity, which are recommended hy persons who
have eaten the fruit. As they have not been proved in
garden cultivation, it is deemed best not to enumerate
them.




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.             225
CO N CLUSIO SN.
THE grape vine, in Italy, and in Spain, and the islands
of the Mediterranean, as also in its native position, is
found to be a plant attaining great age and size; notwithstanding this, the cultivators of France have so
changed its characteristics, that, in some districts there,
by their skill, you may find it brought almost to the condition of an annual; two or three years being the usual
time at which they are renewed by layering, and being
so close, that it is with difficulty you can pass among
them.
With regard to soil, they present as striking a contrast;
they are successfully cultivated in vineyards, where there
appears scarcely soil sufficient to retain moisture enough
to keep life in the plant; vineyards, enjoying equally
good reputations, are situated where the soil is a rich
loaum.
Climate and exposition, as well as soil and manure,
have a great bearing on this cultivation. What these




826           THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.
effects are, I trust, has been (in the language of others,
and by notes of my own,) made sufficiently intelligible
to be made of practical utility. If this has been accomplished, my object in preparing this Treatise has
been attained. That the cultivation of the grape, in
these United States, is to be vastly increased, there can
be no question. How far European theories and modes
of cultivation may be suitable here, is yet to be proved.
That the grape is susceptible of an almost endless diversity of the modes of cultivation, has been fully established.




INDEX.
PAGE
Bones, good effect of,....                     252
Border, compost for, (See Soils for grape-house borders,).      45, 46
covering for,.           62, 65, 69, 81, 83, 94, 137, 140, 255
drain for,...  44, 71
heating of,...5, 81, 90, 95
preparation of,..  43, 53, 54, 65, 71
renovation of,.                                        64, 110
the growth of vines, and general effect of differently made
borders,...             289, 290, 293
Conclusion....                                    325
Difficulties of forcing in winter in New England,.        7, 139, 140
Diseases of the grape vine:-effect of over-cropping,..    124
effect of sudden changes,.           9
mild'w and blight,..    119
rot,..   209, 212
rust,...    119
shrivel,..      98 to 110, 124
Drains for border, how made,                       -.      44
substitute for,..                               89
Florida culture,..... -           232
Forcing the vine,.                 66, 77, 81, 114, 116, 122,.125
difficulties of,..     8, 139, 140
remarks on,....         135
rules for managing the forcing-house,           137 to 146
Furnace, how constructed,.                                     36
view of,.....                 40
Glass, burning of the vine,...                    258
gls-hbouses, cost of,...      30, 32, 33, 34
house for forcing, and the hot-house, difference in them,  135
how constructed,...      24
of what form,...       21, 22
view of lean-to house,..                     31
view of span-house, (frontispiece.)




328                                 INDEX.
FAGR
Grapes, description of American varieties,..  318 to 324
description of foreign varieties,...      297 to 318
new kinds, how to raise,..          149
thinning of berries,..                 122, 123
varieties for the cold grapery,           e.              299
varieties for cultivation in the open air, 155, 158, 194, 196, 197, 201,
206, 212.
varieties for cultivation at the south,.    207
varieties for forcing-house,.    299
varieties for general planting,..    297
varieties for the retarding-house,.        o                  297
Grape-house, how situated,..       e  19 20
Grape vine, age of,...                    15
age of, for planting,....     112
bleeding of,,..                   138
composition wash for killing insects,.                         120
cultivation in the grapery for five years,.            114 to 130
cultivation in the open air,...    155
cultivation in the retarding-house,..          147
cultivation of, in pots,...   145
early fruiting of,..                               86, 89
forcing of.. 66, 77, 80, 114, 116, 121, 136 to 147
fruit, proper quantity to ripen,   122, 125, 130, 157, 2471 268,
272, 273.
grafting of,..          113, 198 203, 215
history of,.....                    11
how cultivated in the greenhouse,..          120
how protected in the grapery in winter,.        117, 120
how raised,.....3, 90, 218
how to plant in grapery, (See Planting.)
how to plant in the vineyard,..  179, 198, 202
how to protect from the frost in the open air,.          156
how trained in grapery, (see Training.)..     116
how trained in the vineyard,         181, 195) 204, 213, 216, 217
limit to its successful cultivation..                      15, 18, 178
pruning of, (See Pruning.)
pruning, representation of,.    115, 155, 219, 234
rapid growth of,.....           87
remarkable for age or size, etc.,.  130, 124
vineyard, cultivation of; in U. S.,..          158 to 21 
vineyard cultivation, European systems,.      161 to l1O




INDEX.                                 829
PAGE
Grape vineyards, manuring of,..         50, 186, 187
watering of,... 7, 116, 121, 122, 141
Guano, how to be used,..    146 252
Heating apparatus, advantages of a furnace when not intending to
force,.     134
furnace,...                   36
hot-water pipe, 3. 38, 140
Polmaise system,..                         39
Insects, how to destroy,.          120, 127 153
injurious,.                             120 127. 145, 153, 199
Introduction to first edition,....                    7
to third edition,....            3
Leaves never to be thinned,..                  124
Liquid manures, (See Manures.)
Manures, do they affect the flavor of tile fruit,..         253
for the vine,  48 to 50, 54, 56 to 59, 62, 72, 164, 166 to 175, 182
to 187, 189, 190, 197.
good or ill effect of,...       2Q3, 293
liquid,.                         51, 54, 58, 173 to 175, 293
remarks on the use of;..                    243 to 294
slaughter-house, what it is,..               61
Mildew, remedy for,.                                   118. 123, 156
training to prevent,            o.                              230
what it is,..    119
Planting,...                      714, 111, 190
at what age of the vine,...                  113
at what time,...      112, 113, 190
Pruning,    75, 84, 120, 127 to 130, 140, 147, 157, 191, ~13, 217, 219, 234
different systems of pruning and training explained,         219, 234
representation of,..    115, 155, 219 to 234
Rain, quantity of,.                       e.       89, 90
Retarding-house, -how to manage,..    141
list of vines for,....         296
Shanking and shrivel,..               98 to 111, 124, 125, 139
Shells, the object in using,...    89, 90, 264, 265
Soil, effect of dry or wet upon the vine,.            195
requisite for the vine,...    45,6, 249
Soils for grape-house borders, A. Forsyth,..              53
Abercrombie,..             172
C. M. Hovey,..  246
Charles McIntosh,.. 




830                               INDEX.
PAGI
Soils for grape-house borders, Clement Hoare,...      55
De la Quintiney,   56
Gardeners' Chronicle,           57, 58 to 78
Tames Roberts,... 71, 2
Jasper Wallace,..           53
John Rogers,...      53
Mr. Hutchison,..         267
Mr. Loudon,...      54
S.A.M.,...           53
Speechly's,..  4
Soils for vineyards,..      162 to 185, 188, 196, 217, 231
Temperature.of the forcing-house,...     137 to 146
of the grapery,.....    125, 126
of the greenhouse,....     120
Training, representation of,..   115, 155, 219, 234
the vine,...    191, 195, 204, 213, 217, 219 to 234
Trellis for the vine, how made,...        192, 205, 213
Underhill, Dr. R. T., letter from,....                    240
Vineyards, exposition for,....        160, 161, 21'
Watering the vine,.       e., 116, 121, 122, 1.41
Weather, difference o4..                     9




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BOUSSINGAULT'S (J. B.) RURAL  ECONOMY,                                        1 25
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BUIST'S (ROBERT) FAMILY  KITCHEN  GARDENER,                         -   -       75
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CHORLTON'S GRAPE-GROWER'S GUIDE,   -   -   -  60
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Books published by A. O. MooRE & Co.                              5
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FIELD'S PEAR CULTURE, -                            - -                      1 00
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and Harness of every description, from the City " Turn Out" to the Farmer's " Gear,":iled a Biography of the eccentric Author. Illustrated throughout.
HOOPER'S DO0 AND GIUN,...-  50
A  FEW  LOOSE CIHAPTERS  ON SHOOTING, among  which  will be
found som3, Alccidots atndl Incidents; also Instructions for Dog Breaking, and interesting letters froin Spolmtsmen. By A BAD SHOT.
HYDE'S CHINESE SUGAR CANE,  -                    -.        -     25
CONTAINING ITS  HISTORY, MODE OF CULTURE, MANUFACTURE  OF
the Sugar, &c.; with Reports of its success in different parts of the United States.




6     Books published by A. O. MoonE & Co.
JOHNSTON'S (JAMES F. W.) AGRICULTURAL CHEMISTRY,    -   1 25
LECTURES ON THE APPLICATION OF CHEMISTRY AND GEOLOGY TO
Agriculture. New Edition, with an Appendix, containing the Author's Experiments in
Practical Agriculture.
JOHNSTON'S (J. F. W.) ELEMENTS OF AGRICULTURAL CHEMISTRY AND GEOLOGY,.-.1 00
WITH A COMPLETE ANALYTICAL AND ALPHABETICAL INDEX, and an
American Preface. By Hon. SIMON BROWN, Editor of the " New England Farmer."
JOHNSTON'S (J. F. W.) CATECHISM  OF AGRICULTURAL CHEMISTRY AND GEOLOGY,..                                 -          25
BY  JAMES  F. W. JOHNSTON, Honorary  Member of the Royal
Agricultural Society of England, and author of " Lectures on Agricultural Chemistry
and Geology." With an Introduction by JOHN PITrIN NORTON, M. A., late Professor of
Scientific Agriculture in Yale College. With Notes and Additions by the Author, prepared expressly for this edition, and an Appendix compiled by the Superintendent of
Education in Nova Scotia. Adapted to the use of Schools.
LANGSTROTH  (REV. L. L.) ON THE HIVE AND HONEY BEE   -   1 25
A  PRACTICAL TREATISE ON THE  HIVE  AND  HONXE  BEE, Third
edition, enlarged and illustrated with nmerous engravings. This Work is, without a
doubt, the best work on the Bee published in any language, whether we consider its
scientific accuracy, the practical instructions it contains, or the beauty and completeness
of its illustrations.
LEUCHARS' HOW TO BUILD AND VENTILATE HOTHOUSES, -  1 25
A   PRACTICAL  TREATISE  ON  THE  CONSTRUCTION, HEATING  AND
Ventilation of Hothouses, including Conservatories, Greenhouses, Graperies and other
kinds of Horticultural Structures; with Practical Directions for their Management, in
regard to Light, Heat and Air. Illustrated with numerous engravings. By P. B.
LEUCHARS, Garden Architect.
LIEBIG'S (JUSTUS) FAEILIAR LECTURES ON  CHEMISTRY,    "                      50
AND  ITS RELATION TO COIMMERCE, PHYSIOLOGY, and AGRICULTURE.
Edited by JOHNw GARDENER, MI. D.,
LINSLEY'S MORGAN HORSES, -                                                 1 00 - 
A  PREMIUMI ESSAY ON THE ORIGIN, HISTORY, AND CHARACTERISTICS
of this remarkable American Breed of Horses; tracing the Pedigree from the original
Justin Morgan, through the most noted of his progeny, down to the present time.
With numerous portraits. To which are added Hints for Breeding, Breaking and General Use and Management of Horses, with practical Directions for Training them for
Exhibition at Agricultural Fairs. By D. C. LINSLEY, Editor of the American Stock
Journal.
MOORE'S RURAL HAND BOOKS, -                                                1 25
FIRST SERIES, containing Treatises onTHE HORSE,                         THE PESTS OF THE FARM,
THE HOG,                           DoM-ESTI FowLs, and
THE HONEY BEE,                     THE Cow.
SECOND SERIES, containing                 -     -                    1 25
EVERY LADY HER OWN FLOWER GARDENER, ESSAY ON MANURES,
E1.TI'EN'TS OF AGRICULTURE,            AMERICAN KITCHEN GARDENER
thIRD FANCIER,                         AMERICAN ROSE CULTURIST.
THIRD SERIES, containing —                                           1 25
biLES ON THE HORSE'S FOOT,        VINE-IRESSER'S MANUAL,
THE RABBIT FANCIER,               BEE-KEEPER'S CHART,
WEEKS ON BEES,                    CHEMISTRY MADE EASY.
FOURTH SERIES, containing                       -    -               1 25
PERSOZ ON THE VINE,               HOOPER'S DOG AND GUN,
I1,I1TG'S FAMILIAR LETTERS,       SKILLFUL HOUSEWIFE,
BROwNE'S MEMOIRS OF INDIAN CORN.