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'';,,,,,;I:,,, :,: , I.,II: , , , I II.I ,;,,,,,, I. , !,,,,, , ,,",",, ;,,, , ,,1 '',;1,,,II;,,1,, ,I f 1.II.I.I: , 1 I ",,,;,,, I Barbara plans her journey Barbara's Philippine Journey By Frances Williston Burks With an Introduction by Frank M. McMurry Illustrated by Hermann Heyer, Earl Horter, and G. W. Peters Yonkers-on-Hudson World Book Company and Manila 1921 . 9 H Copyright, 1913, by World Book Company All r ights reserved 1 \?7 BBPJ-3 t >\.< 1,1'1' 7 - /, TO THlE PARENTS OF TOMMY AND BETTY THIS BOOK IS DEDICATED INTRODUCTION ONE of the most difficult portions of the entire elementary school curriculum to teach is that part of geography dealing with the broadest facts about the earth as a whole, i.e., the continents, oceans, climate, leading surface features, etc. This is usually taught to children between eight and eleven years of age; aud since the main object is merely to give the general setting of the more detailed geographical facts soon to follow, the treatment of these topics is always in danger of being so brief as to be abstract, dry, and even stultifying to children. The two books of Jane Andrews, however, "Seven Little Sisters " and "Each and All," have shown the possibilities in this field when a master hand works it. Their two most striking merits are, first, that they do not deal with the earth alone,-the most common fault in most treatments,-but with the earth in relation to man; they center the interest in personalities, and might, in fact, be called biographical studies of geography; second, the facts are presented in story form, with a style causing them to take rank as literature. One of the great needs in this field is that of more books of this sort. The story of Barbara's Philippine Journey bids fair, I believe, to be classed with these two books of Jane Andrews. It covers different ground with a very different pian. But it likewise presents the facts in relation to a child, and in a style that is even more simple than that of Jane Andrews, while being very attractive. F. M. MCMURRY. Teachers College, Columbia University. CONTENTS CHAPTER I. AWAY WE Go. II. THROUGH A TYPHOON III. STRANGE LANDS AND SEAS IV. A SURPRISING CITY v. AT HOME IN MANILA. VI. ONCE UPON A TIME VII. To THE BENGUET MOUNTAINS VIII. DANGERS OF YESTERDAY IX. IN THE MULE-WAGON X. NEW NEIGHBORS. XI. THE IGOROTS AT HOME XII. A BENGUET BAGUIO XIII. FAREWELL TO BENGUET XIV. THIE GOVERNOR'S STORIES XV. ALONG THE PASIG RIVER. XVI. ON TO PAGSANIAN XVII. SHOOTING THE RAPIDS XVIII. DANGEROUS MARKETING XIX. CALLING ON A VOLCANO XX. FILIPINO FRIENDS. XXI. PLANTATION WORK AND PLAY XXII. OFF FOR HOME PAGE 7.... 15 ~........ 21...... 28 *....... 36............... 42...... 50 *. * * w...57.. ~ ~.. 65. ~ ~ e..... 73...... 82...... 90.,.... 99.... 105... 116... 126... 132... 144.. c *. 155.. 170... 183.*. 193 a^uttk(rn^z6Pm//%r 2z4 /9ge'^c 4/fcie/'/WaU//~f*jwnA^$nt! 4 i'4t ~, to t4y e/dn/2czjr AttumCtr This is a real letter written by the little girl who made the real journey of which this " really true" story tells. -^ia/^^^^^ <5i^/^^^/^^//^ ae/^A~wn/Peue 1i~~i AUS,,F@/aJm/Mm ^^MW W w>tz^ 'v'S'ad:w//Ccw. "/~Xu/n/i/~f/ ^UA^ 7 JV!U /C& ^^^9.,^< This is au real letter *written by the little girl who made the real -journey of which this " really true" story tells. BARBARA'S PHILIPPINE JOURNEY CHAPTER I AWAY WE GO "How would you like to take a trip across the ocean?" That is what my father asked me at supper one day last year. Can you guess what I answered? What would you 8 Barbara's Philippine Journey have said? I jumped right out of my chair. "A real trip across the ocean? Father, do you mean it?" I cried. "I do," Father answered, folding up his napkin, "and now let's get ready for our journey." I followed him to the nursery table, not at all sure that he was not playing a new game. He seemed in earnest, though, as he took the big globe down from the mantelpiece and began to turn it slowly around. "Let us see where we are going, " he said, and turned the globe around until North America was under his hands. Then he pointed to the United States and showed me a little black spot on the right edge of it which he said was New York. From this point he drew a line all the way round to the other side 'of the globe. "That's the line we'll follow on our journey," he went on. "But instead of making the line with a pencil, we'll make it with trains and steamships; and instead of its taking two seconds to make, as it did just now, it will take us five or six weeks to make the real line on the earth and the ocean." " Where can we be going? " I asked in wonder. "It must be to the ends of the earth." Away We Go 9 "Almost," Father answered, smiling. "See, here is California on the left side of the United States, and the blue beyond that is the Pacific Ocean. We shall first go to far-away California, and there take ship across the Pacific and sail till we reach the Philippine Islands. Here they are," and Father pointed to a little brown patch in the blue on the opposite side from California. It was there that his long pencil line had ended. Then Father began to tell me stories about all the countries we should visit and the people we should see. He said we should stop at the Hawaiian Islands and Japan and China before we reached the Philippines. I made a little map on my blackboard of the places we were soon to see, and I put down the names of the cities we should pass through,-San Francisco, Honolulu, Yokohama, Kobe, Nagasaki, Shanghai, Hongkong, and Manila, all on the Pacific Ocean. If you wish to know where we were going on our long journey, just get your father to show you these cities on a big map of the world or on the globe, as my father did me. W: were having such a fine time planning our journey, that I could hardly believe it was bedtime when 10 Barbara's Philippine Journey Mother came and said, "Now it is time to dream about the Philippines, daughter. And that is really what I did all night. Thle next morning began the busiest two weeks I ever heard of in our family, for we were to start on our journey at the end of that time. First of all I had to find good homes for Kitty and Carlo for the time I should be gone. I had to clear up my nursery closet thoroughly, too, and decide what dolls and toys I must take with me and what I could spare for the Orphans' Home. And it seemed that I no sooner got pleasantly started playing for the last time with some dear toy, than Mother would call me away to try on a dress or a coat. "Don't you think you have enough clothes for me now, Mother?" 1 would say; and then, just as I was saying that, the door bell would ring, and in would come many more packages for me to untie, and I would find warm sailor suits for cold days, thin white canvas shoes for hot ones, and woolen stockings and lisle thread socks, and all together enough clothes for six little girls. "You will need all these clothes, said Mother, "for we shall meet all the climates of the world on our Away We Go 11 journey and taste all the four seasons, and who knows how many more, by the time we reach the Philippines." I laughed, for how could you possibly find more than four seasons, no matter where you went? But later I found out that Mother was partly right, for when we camne to take our trip, at each place we stopped there was a different season from the one where we last were, and we stopped five times. We left New York in February, in the depth of winter, with the thermometer at zero and piles of snow on the ground. IPour days later we were in California, where they were having the most beautiful spring in the world. All the hills were covered with fresh grass and poppies, that looked like gold scattered over bright green velvet. The birds were making music all the time, and the air was so sweet that I loved California, and wanted to live there. But lovely as it was, of course we could not stay, and we soon found ourselves on a great ship, steaming out of the Golden Gate of San Francisco Bay. The blue waves danced around us, and our ship began to swing up and down in the great Pacific swell as it started out on its long, long track across the ocean. 12 Barbara's Philippine Journey As I was looking out over the rolling waves, I saw a stream of water shoot up and then disappear. "What was it?" I called to Father. "It looked like a fountain." Father sprang to the rail. "A whale! " he shouted. "See it spout!" And sure enough, we could see its big, black body at the top of the water as it came up to blow and breathe. The ocean was full of surprises. One warm day I called Father to see some little birds down near the water. "Where do they come from and how do they disappear so?" I asked, for suddenly not one of them was to be seen. "They have flown into the water," said Father. "They aren't birds at all. They are flying-fishes." "Fishes with wings? Oh, the lucky creatures!" I cried. "Shouldn't I like to be one, to swim through the water and fly through the air!" "There they come again," said Father. They made a pretty sight, flitting through the air and finally diving into the side of a big, rolling wave. Six days after we left San Francisco we reached Honolulu, and in that short time we had managed to change seasons again. We found the Hawaiians Away We Go 13 enjoying summer in February. It was so warm that I put on my short-sleeved dress, and we all went swimming on the beautiful Waikiki beach, which is bordered by palm trees. After we had all been splashing around awhile, Mother told me to sit on the warm sand and see what would happen. She said, "Ever since I was a little girl, I've wanted to ride the surf at Honolulu, and now Father and I are going to. try it." then I oaw do you rider- Ho the Hawaiians ride the surf "Look, look, she an- ool swered, pointing out \~~ over the water, "there's a man doing it!"' And then I saw a wonder- How the Hawaiians ride the surf at Honolulu ful sight. On top of a big, combing wave that was racing toward us, rode a man, standing upright. With flying hair, he shot along, balancing himself with his arms, as the lady did who rode the white horse in the circus. 14 Barbara's Philippine Journey I could not believe what I saw. "How can he?"' asked. "Is it magic?" 'No, but doesn't it look like it?" Mother answered "He's riding a surf board." Then she turned t( Father. "Come!" she said, "we'll have to try it." They each took a thing that looked like an ironing board and pushed out among the breakers with it They never had ridden the surf before, you know, anc part of the time they rode under the waves instead o: on top of them. Sometimes all I could see of eithe] parent would be an arm or a foot stuck out througl the waves. But their heads always came up after < while, sputtering and laughing. It was jolly fun, anc I decided to learn to swim right away, so that the nextime I stopped at Honolulu I could go surf-coasting too. Honolulu, with all its wonderful flowers and fruits and pretty colored fishes, was very beautiful, but ] was glad that we soon were on our ship again, whei every day was bringing us nearer the Philippin( Islands. i1111111 iFN CHAPTER II THROUGH A TYPHOON It was a lonely stretch of sea between Honolulu and Japan. Just look at it on the globe or the map and see how big the distance is. The map looks full of islands, but the ocean did not. The islands were always too far away to see, and whatever ships were on the ocean at that time kept out of our sight, too, for eleven whole days. But the weather was lovely, and the ocean peaceful, until one black day. That was the beginning of the typhoon. Do you know what a typhoon is? It is what they 15 16 Barbara's Philippine Journey call a hurricane in the West Indies', and just a bad storm on the North Atlantic Ocean. I think a typhoon is the worst of them all. That is the name they give the great ocean storms that co-me up on the coast of Japan and China and often wreck many ships. I am glad I have been in a typhoon at sea, for it is a very wonderful experience, but I never wish to be in another. Neither do Mother and Father. This one was awful. We were nearing Japan and were to reach it the next day, when our trouble began. The wind had been blowing very hard all day; the sky was full of strange-looking clouds, and the waves were running wonderfully high. Father and I were standing outside, watching our ship plunge her nose into the giant waves and send showers of spray over the deck. One of the officers warned us that it was not very safe to be standing there. The wind did almost blow us off our feet, but we held on tight to the railing and watched the great, foaming waves go tumbling by us. Suddenly I saw a wave rise far up against the sky, much higher than any of the others, and then it came rushing right toward the ship. Father saw it, too, and snatching me up, ran with all his might for the Through a Typhoon 17 companionway. He had just taken hold of the door knob when we were both bumped hard against the door and found ourselves floating in a stream of deep water that was pulling us toward the rail. Father held on tight to the door knob and to me, and a minute later we were lying bruised and drenched on the deck. "Is the ship sinking?" I gasped, my nose and mouth full of water. "No, it was just the big wave," Father answered. "It came aboard the ship, and it almost took us off with it. Here comes another! We mustn't lose a second. " We jumped inside, and slammed the door just in time to hear the next wave thunder against the ship and sweep angrily over the deck. We could hardly' get down to our cabin, the ship began to lurch so wildly. The stairs flew out from under us and again crushed up against us so that we could not lift our feet. Doors banged shut in our faces when we opened theni, and as we zigzagged down the hall we fell intothe arms of the ship's doctor, though we were trying our best to keep out of his way as we passed him. He did not like it, either, because we were so dripping wet. The entire ship seemed possessed by a wicked 18 Barbara's Philippine Journey fairy who was bound to work us all harm. It was not hard to believe that there was, a whole band of demons outside in the storm, trying to bring the ship to destruction. How the wind roared and the waves crashed and the good boat leaped and shuddered! Darkness came very early that day, and then I grew frightened. There we were out alone on the wide ocean, in a terrible storm, so far from land. Thousands of black waves were plunging at our little ship, trying to drag her under. How could any boat conquer that army of fierce waves? Father and Mother and I stayed together in our little cabin, all lying in our berths, because we did not feel well; and besides we could not sit on chairs if we wished to, unless they were screwed down. When we tried it we were thrown right over on the floor, the boat was rolling so. I must have gone to sleep in spite of the awful storm, for the next thing I knew there was a little daylight, and I heard Mother saying- to Father that it had been a comfort to her all through the terrible night to have us at least all together. The typhoon did not moderate any that day, and we had to give up seeing Japan at the time we had The storm-tossed ship proves a comfortable cradle 20 Barbara's Philippine Journey hoped to; but we were very thankful to be afloat still and were willing enough to let the ship take all the time she needed to reach Japan, if only she would get us there sometime. When night fell again, the typhoon was still raging, and the ship was groaning and shaking as badly as ever, but I was no longer so afraid. We had come through one night safely, and I thought how wonderful it was that men could make such fine, strong ships, and sail them too, so that they could outride the fiercest ocean storms. When I said my little prayer that night, I thanked God that He had given people power to overcome such great dan — ger. The ship was still rolling so heavily that Mother had to tie me into my berth, but I went to sleep feeling safe and happy. The next morning the sun was shining brightly, the typhoon had left us, and there ahead of us were the blue mountain shores of Japan, with the great snowcapped sacred mountain Fujiyama towering right up to heaven. CHAPTER III STRANGE LANDS AND SEAS "Land never looked so beautiful to me before," said Mother, as we steamed into the harbor of Yokohama. "Something is wrong with the air, though," said Father, looking very uncomfortable. "Put on your overcoat, dear," said Mother to him, "and you will find the air improved. " "Oh, we are having a different season again, aren't we, Mother?" I said. "It's no more summer or even spring." 21 22 Barbara's Philippine Journey "No, it is just freezing winter in Japan," she answered, pulling her furs closer around her. Before we went ashore, we unpacked all our warm clothes, but even with these on we shivered all the time. The air is always damp in Japan, and it does no good to go indoors, for the houses are not warmed. Worst of all, when we did go into a tea house, the master of the tea house made us all take off our shoes for fear of soiling his nice clean floors. This made my feet colder than ever. "Never mind, Barbara," said Father, let's enjoy shivering while we may. In a few days we shall be where it is so hot that a good sh-sh-shiver will be the rarest kind of t-t-treat." Father's teeth chattered so hard when he was saying these1 hopeful things that I had to laugh. But my feet did not stop aching, and I really could not have kept from crying much longer if a pretty Japanese girl had not come up to me smiling. "Ohi 0," she said, and then she began to play tag with me. She could not speak English, and I could not speak Japanese; but we understood each other's tag, and we had a merry game. My feet were warm by the time dinner was ready, and as we all had to sit ........ -................,-;-*I Dinner in Japan 24 Barbara's Philippine Journey on the floor, the way the Japanese people do, I was able to tuck my toes under my skirt and keep them comfortable. When we reached China, there was, as usual, another season prepared for us. This time it was a sort of autumn they were having in March. It was mild and dry and pleasant, as it is in our fall. The land was waiting for the rainy season, to make it green and springlike. It was fine weather for picnics. One day we had one on the high peak above the city of Hongkong. This peak looks over the great harbor, and when you are on it you can see the ships far below, coming in from all parts of the world all the time. "They look like toy ships, don't they, Mother?" I said. But we knew they were really great boats bringing their cargoes thousands of miles, from Australia and India and Europe and America, and many other lands which you can probably think of. When we sailed from China toward Manila, which is the largest city in the Philippines, we soon felt what our next season would be. Every hour the sun shone more fiercely, and the sea-breezes grew warmer, until the last night on the boat it was so hot that I Strange Lands and Seas 25 could not sleep. How I wished then that I was back in chilly Japan! I tossed around in my berth and turned my pillow over ninety-nine times. Finally Mother looked into the cabin and saw me flopping my pillow the hundredth time. "Haven't you been asleep, dear? " she said. "No, Mother, and I never, never can sleep tonight," I answered. "How would you like to try it up on deck?" she asked. "Father has made a beautiful bed for you up there on two steamer chairs." Then Mother dried my perspiration, and Father carried me up to the deck, where the wind blew hard but not too cool. It was lovely there. Thousands of stars glittered in the heavens, and Father showed me the Southern Cross, which is made of four very bright stars in the shape of a kite. Grown people call the shape a cross, though, and some feel proud when they have seen it because they have to travel so far before they can. It is much too far south to be seen from any place in the United States, and so when people say that they have seen the Southern Cross everybody knows they have been great travelers. It was so beautiful there on the deck in the wind, 26 Barbara's Philippine Journey which blew warm and cool at the same time, that instead of being afraid I should never get to sleep, I was afraid that I should. The night was full of wonderful things. The waves as they splashed against the side of our ship seemed to break into a thousand little balls of fire. These fire balls then ran past in golden streams as our ship pushed on through the black water. Father called this golden fire phosphorescence. The wind was full of sweet perfumes that floated over the water from the Philippine forests, for we were near the Islands now and could dimly see the high black mountains against the dark night sky in the east. But my eyes would not keep open, even among all these lovely wonders, and before I knew it the blazing sun had peeped over the horizon. We were close to the high, green shores of Luzon, the largest of the Philippine Islands. All the air was sweet with perfume, for we had finally reached the country of everlasting summer. It had taken so long to reach it, and we had seen such strange sights on the way, that it seemed to mne it could hardly be the real world, and I felt that I was sailing into fairy-land. I asked Mother if she was not very happy. She Strange Lands and Seas 27 said, "Indeed I am, dear, and what I am most happy about is that I have brought you safely across that great, lonely ocean and that I need fear no more your slipping over the rail into the water. " It was too bad Mother had to be anxious about that deck rail all the time, as I had not been anxious once the entire way across. All the same, if you do fall over, it is very bad, for the ocean is five or six miles deep in places, and the ship goes very fast and often it is stormy, and there are sharks waiting for you, too. When your mother thinks of all these things, it is no wonder she is frightened. CHAPTER IV A SURPRISING CITY As soon as we had landed in Manila and gone through the custom-house, a tiny pony, pulling a little two-wheeled carriage, was driven up to where we stood. "Quilez?" said the driver. "He seems to want us to get into his carriage," said Father. "But how can that little bit of a horse pull us all?" I asked. "Look, the street is full of little ponies pulling big 28 A Surprising City 29 loads," said Father. "These horses don't seem to know they are little. It is evidently the style here to be small. Let us see what this pony can do for us." We all climbed into the quilez and were immediately whirled away by the little horse, whose tiny feet clattered along so fast that we seemed to go as rapidly as a large horse could have taken us. And then what strange sights we began to see! The river, the boats, the houses, the trees, the animals, the people, indeed all the things we saw, were so different from the things at home that we three had to nudge each other every minute and say: "Oh, look! Oh, see! How queer! How funny!" Among all the strange sights, the people themselves were the strangest. "What a pretty brown their skin is!" I said. "It is like a fresh horse-chestnut." "I never saw men wear lace coats before," said Mother. "See that old man across the street." "He hasn't anything on under his lace coat," I said, "and his brown skin shines right through." "The wind can blow through, too," said Mother. What a comfortable way to dress, for, oh, isn't it hot in Manila!" "See that little brown baby sitting on its mother's 30 Barbara's Philippine Journey hip, " Father said' next. The mother's black hair was streaming down her back, and on her head she carried a market basket. The baby, dressed only in a little shirt, was holding on safely with his arms and legs. "The babies here take their airing differently from the babies in Japan, " said Mother. "Yes," I answered. "There they were all riding on their older sisters' backs." The animals we saw on our first ride in Manila were almost as strange as the people. Right across the busiest street, called the Escolta, men were driving huge creatures with enormous horns. Father told me that these creatures were water-buffaloes, that in the Philippines they were called carabaos, and that they did a great deal of work for the Filipinos. "Their horns look rather frightful to me," I said. "They are frightful when the carabaos use them," said Father. "Once in a great while a carabao is thrown into a rage and charges with awful fury and speed at any one who is near him." Only a day or two after Father said this, he was unlucky enough to provoke a carabao, and he found out how truly he had spoken. He came very near losing his life when the mad carabao rushed at him. A Surprising City 31 Father dodged into a thick clump of bamboo and the buffalo missed him, but it went on down the road and did catch a little brown woman with her baby on her hip. The furious animal tossed the mother high in the air, wounding her terribly, but I am glad to say that she did not die; and the little baby, who clung silently to his mother's hip through it all, was not hurt in the least. But I wish to tell you a little more about what we saw on our ride. The people and the animals were not the only strange sights. The trees and brilliant flowers amazed us, too. We kept saying as we looked at the trees, "Oh, how green, how wonderfully green, they are! " Our trees at home are green, of course, in summer, but their green is nothing like the green of the Manila trees, any more than our first pale grass of March is like our bright green grass in June. I was delighted with the pretty bamboo trees that grew in clumps, sometimes sixty feet high. "They look like great green ostrich feathers, " I said. "Do you know," said Father, "that the bamboo trees are as wonderful as they are pretty? The Filipinos use the wood to make almost anything they need, from houses to mats and hats, and even guns." 32 Barbara's Philippine Journey "I never heard of wooden guns before," I said. "Do you mean pop-guns, Father?" "Indeed I don't," he answered. "I mean big,; noisy, deadly guns. Bamboo guns were used to salute the American fleet when it visited these islands. You see the bamboo trunk is hollow except at the sections. The Filipinos, by scooping out the sections, get readymade tubes of almost any length or width they please. They use these tubes for all sorts of things, —poles, organ pipes, water pipes, cooking utensils, pails, flutes, and guns, and a hundred things more." ' 'It seems as if the Filipinos might get on very well without any other trees than bamboo," I said. "It does," said Father; "but, of course, they would want some fruit trees besides, though the bamboo does furnish them food too. The bamboo sprout when it is cooked is said to be delicious. Perhaps we shall have some today." "It certainly is a wonderful tree," I said; "but how in the world can the people make mats and hats of its wood?" "They split the stems into strands for weaving. They use rather coarse strands for the mats and the finer ones for the hats. The hats made in the town Bamboo land 34 Barbara's Philippine Journey of Baliwag are light as feathers and fine as silk. You and Mother must each have one." Perhaps the strangest thing about the bamboo tree is that it isn't really a tree at all, but a kind of giant grass. Just think of grass growing sixty feet high! Soon we camne to a whole avenue of handsome trees, different from any we had yet seen. Our cochero (driver) told us that they were called rain trees, because their leaves close up in the rain. We found that the fireflies loved these trees, which after dark sparkled like fairy palaces with thousands of little moving lights. The trees that gave us the greatest delight on all our lovely drive were the ilang ilang trees, which grow only in the Philippines. Their yellow blossoms gave out the sweetest perfume in the world. Maybe your mother has a bottle of ilang ilang perfume. If she has, take a good smell of it, or if she has not, go to the drug store and ask for some, and see how sweet all the air smelled in Manila, near the ilang ilang groves. Another strange thing I noticed on our first ride in Manila was the way the walls of the houses could slide open. A Surprising City 35 "They don't have windows like ours at home, do they, Father?" I asked. "No, indeed. Such little windows as ours are not enough for people in the tropics. They need all the breeze they can get, and so they make the whole sides of their houses to slide open like rolling doors." Some of the houses that we passed were so wide open that we saw almost everything that was going on in them,-families sitting at their dinners, babies sleeping in their cradles, and cooks at work in their kitchens. It was surely the strangest place I was ever in. That night, when Mother tucked me up under my mosquito bar, but with no bedclothes over me, in our queer, open room, I told her that if I should wake up in New York the next morning and find that our trip to Manila had been a long, curious dream, I should not be much surprised. The Manila roosters the next morning told me, though, that Manila was not a dream. About ten thousand of them began to crow as soon as the day dawned, and that was the end of my dreaming. :::: 'B,~~~~~~~~~~~~~VS 'a" Oft yl*':: Mb 11% El //&/n Vp~i ow"Nliji Ile,:: li.*P~~" K..: Ri:~~~~~~~~~~~0 V.,:. ~~:: ELL CHAPTER V AT HOME IN MANILA Our first morning in Manila brought a happy surprise in the form of two little American children, Tommy and Betty, who called on us with their parents. As these children had lived in the Philippines all their lives, I had of course never seen them before; but Father and Mother had long been close friends of their parents and had read me so many letters about them that when I saw them I felt acquainted at once. I cannot tell you how good it was to find nice English-speaking Tommy and Betty, after meeting so many strange-looking children with such strangesounding tongues in so many strange lands. These 36 At Home in Manila 37 two looked as if they could play all the games that I liked to play, and I was wishing that I could have them with me all the time when their mother made the delightful proposal that Fathcr and Mother and I should come and stay at their house as long as we should be in Manila. "We shall all be going to the mountains in a few weeks," she said, "and until then we want the pleasure of showing the city to you." I held my breath till Mother answered, for I felt that if she refused this invitation, I should not care for Manila any more. Meeting Tommy and Betty that morning had made me suddenly see that no place in the world is worth much without playmates. How glad I was when Mother thanked her friend and told her that it would please us all very much to accept her kind invitation! Tommy and Betty had been waiting as eagerly as I to hear what Mother would say, and when she had spoken, they jumped up with a shout and carried me along with them out of the house. "'We're -going to take you home with us right away!" they cried, without stopping for any one's permission; and though the sun was beating on us 38 Barbara's Philippine Journey just like a wide-open furnace, we ran all the way till we reached their pleasant house. A barefooted Filipino boy who was watering plants on the veranda, smiled a greeting at us as we ran up the walk. Tommy explained that he was one of the muchachos who did the housework. "Doesn't your mother have a girl to help her?" I asked. "Oh, no," answered Tommy. "Mariano here and Alberto, the other house boy, do the waiting on table and cleaning and chamber work. Wing Fat, the Chinese cook, gets the meals, and Antonio, the cochero, takes care of the ponies." "What a lot of servants!" I said. "Does every one here have so many? v "A good many people do. Mother says it is the only way to get the work done. You see, none of the boys want to do more than one thing. Here is Alberto, now," said Tommy, as we entered the big living room and met the other smiling muchacho; "he doesn't like to do anything but polish the floors." Alberto certainly liked to do that, and any one would in the way he was doing it. With big cloth pads fastened to the soles of his bare feet, he was At Home in Manila 39 skating all over the floor, which was as smooth and shiny as our mahogany dining table. "What fun!" I cried. "I wish your mother would let me be her floor-polishing muchacho. " \ There was something new to see every minute of that day. Now and then a Chinese pedler came to the door, with a whole dry-goods store loaded on his back. He would unroll his beau- A x / tiful linens on the floor, while everybody sat around admiring? iI!/ ~ them and talking pidgin-English with the good-natured Chinese. L Then there was the boy who brought flowers to sell, in a flat Flowers to sell basket lined with pieces of cool banana leaves to keep them fresh. He had tiny roses, gay red hibiscus flowers, fragrant tube-roses, and what Betty and I liked best of all,-long necklaces made by stringing the dainty sweet-smelling sampaguita blossoms on a cotton thread, with a red rose for a locket. 40 Barbara's Philippine Journey Once or twice Filipino women with long, hanging hair came to offer old embroideries and jewelry for sale. Strange people were coming and going all day, and all were made pleasantly welcome. "How polite and happy every one seems!" I said to Mother. "Aren't the Filipinos' manners charming?" she X answered. "What low, sweet voices the women have, and how much dignity!" The first day with our friends came to an end with a drive to the Luneta, which is a park near Manila Bay. Every one who can, comes here at sunset to see his friends. As we drove up to it, the Luneta made a pretty sight. A procession of carriages with gaily dressed ladies in them was moving about the green where the band played. Little companies of Filipino convent girls in white marched here and: there, led by black-robed nuns. Children were playing games on the grass, and friends were greeting one another. 'It looks like some great holiday, doesn't it, Father " I said. "Yes," he answered, "and to think that they have it every day in this delightful town!" At Home in Manila 41 When the concert was ended, we drove down a palm-bordered avenue until we reached the great wall of the old city of Manila. "What a wonderful wall!" I cried. "See the people walking on the top of it. Let us trv to get up, too." We left our carriages and then found steps that led to the top of the wall.' But you must not suppose that this wall is anything like the ones we children like to climb at home.' Those walls are not more than three to six feet high, are they? What would you think of a wall that was thirty feet high and so broad that the people had vegetable gardens on the top? That is the kind of wall they have around the old city of Manila. While we were sitting on it, enjoying the cool twilight breeze and watching the people drive by us on the avenue below, I said to Father: "How did this big wall happen to be built? Is there a story about it?" "There are many stories, about it," he answered, "and stories about all the Philippines as well. I shall have time to tell you Just one before it is dark." Then, while the sun was setting behind the purple mountains along the bay, Father told this story. CHAPTER ~VI I0OCE UPON A TIME oU ud ears aOtherre wereno white men rin the PhilPi re or had the white men ever seen theseisla philippines they i no that somewhere off these islands. But:.,~,~ere islanuds f ' VI in a strange ocean there wereThese island tey came rar and costly things. The islands, they cake wwere l o sgar and spice, andall thing niev, ante men of long ago did not rest till they nice, and thile tmengo e s ilors were the rst to nd the way to the Spice Islands, and they ionnd it by,sailing around the southeri end of Africa. Once upon a Time 43 "The King of Spain was as anxious as any one to find a way to the Spice Islands, because he thought trade with them would make him and his country very rich. But the Portuguese would not let his ships go by the way that they had found. So one day he called a great sea captain to him-Magellan was this captain's name-and said to him, 'I will give you five good ships which you can sail anywhere you please, if you will go and try to find another way to the Spice Islands. Probably you will find new countries and islands, and you must call all these new countries and islands mine. "Magellan was delighted, for he believed he could find the Spice Islands if any one in the world could, and he did not mind giving them to the King. He always enjoyed finding islands more than keeping them. So he set sail with his five pretty little ships, and: sped away from Spain on what was to be a longer voyage than the very bravest sailor in the world had ever yet taken. "Our voyage to the Philippines seemed long, didn't it? We were four weeks in our ship, and there were many days at a time when we saw neither land nor sail nor sea-bird. But instead of days, there were 44 Barbara's Philippine Journey months at a time when Magellan saw none of these things. During these long months, every morning as soon as the sun rose he and his men would search the horizon for land. All day they would seek in vain, and evening would come as it had a hundred times before, when the whole world seemed made of nothing but black waves tumbling around them. Their food gave out and their water too, and despair settled in their hearts. But the longest voyage has to end sometime, and Magellan's ended a year and-a half after he started. " "How could it take him so long?" I asked. "There were three good reasons why it took him so long. The first was that Magellan had only sails to carry his ships along. In those days no one ever dreamed of a steamship, such as our Manchuria, which could rush through the water in calm or storm, never stopping a moment till it reached the journey's end. When the breezes stopped blowing, Magellan's ship had to wait; and when the wind grew stormy, it had to wait again, for the sails could not be spread in a storm, for fear the gale would blow them to pieces or overturn the ship. And even when the wind was fair, as the sailors say, and the ship was skimming r &! Az I Magellan seeking the Spice Islands r 46 Barbara's Philippine Journey merrily over the waves, it really went so much slower than our big steamships do, that you would be put ii mind of a snail and a swallow if you could see then starting out together. "The second reason why it took Magellan so long t( reach the Philippines was that he had to find a wa; into the great ocean where he thought the Spic( Islands might be. This took him over a year. Yov may be sure he was happy when he did find the ocear path. He was so pleased with his discovery that he named the straits he passed through for himself, jusl as if he were naming his own son. "The third reason for the length of his trip was that when he got into the great ocean which he namec the Pacific, he had to look for the Spice Islands. H( could not point his ships at them as the captains d( today. It was a great game of 'I spy' he had witl those islands, and he never really found them, thougl his sailors did after his death. But Magellan dic reach a group of islands which he learned was neai the Spice Islands, and great was his joy and that ol his sailors. After suffering so much, they had at lasi done such a wonderful thing that people would al ways remember it and talk about it. Once upon a Time 47 "When their feet really touched the shore, Magellan was so full of happiness that he could hardly speak, but his heart within him spoke like this: 'If I should die today, I should not grieve, for I have done the thing I wanted to do more than anything else in my whole life. I have found the way around the world, and millions and millions of people will rejoice with me.' "These thoughts of noble Magellan were almost a prophecy, for in a few weeks he was dead, killed by the natives on the shores which he had found at the cost of great suffering. But his sailors went on, and after many trials and misfortunes, what was left of the expedition reached Spain again. Magellan had set out with five ships and two hundred and thirtyfour men. Three years later, one ship and eighteen men sailed into the harbor of Seville. Just imagine how the people of Seville must have run out of their houses and crowded the streets to see those eighteen weather-beaten sailors, the first men to sail around the world! "Before Magellan was killed, he had kept his promise to the King of Spain, and taken the islands in the King's name. From that time, so long past, 48 Barbara's Philippine Journey until only a few years ago, these islands that we now call the Philippines, have belonged to Spain. It was the Spaniards who built this great, beautiful wall on which we are sitting, in order to keep their enemies out of their new city of Manila. And much use they found for the wall, too. Sometimes the natives would attack them, but would be stopped by the great wall. Sometimes, too, far-away countries would send their ships to take the islands away from Spain. For many years the wall kept the city safe, and only once did an enemy succeed in breaking through. That was in 1765, when the English, who were at war with Spain, brought big guns ashore and made a hole in the wall. "Then Manila was left in peace until, in 1898, a great thing happened. Our own country was at war with Spain, and our ships were ordered to come into Manila. The Spaniards tried to keep our ships out as they had the ships of their other enemies, but they couldn't. There was a sad, terrible battle, in which many Spanish ships and sailors were destroyed; and then the Spaniards gave Manila and the Philippine Islands up to our country, which has owned them ever since.A Once upon a Time 49 "And so this is really a part of our country now, Father? I asked, knocking the wall a little with my heel to make sure it was not a dream wall, for the story of Magellan and his ships and the strange ocean all seemed to mne like a fairy story. I was sure that I could see one of Magellan's ships all made of gold in the sunset clouds over the bay. "It is indeed part of our country,7" said Father. "We should never have come here if it weren't. But see how dark it is getting! We must hurry back for dinner. 7 - br~ II~ - ~,~~-_As~~ 4121;;;~~S- "CFi; I -cS -"rIV, CHAPTER VII TO THE BENGUET MOUNTAINS A few cays after Father told me about Magellan, we began to get ready for a trip to the mountains of Benguet. We were all going to live in tents and have ponies to ride, and have such fine times in the mountain forests that we could hardly wait till the day should come for us to go. One night while I was dreaming of the fun we should have, I was waked up from my sleep by hearing Father and Mother moving around the room and talking softly. 50 To the Benguet Mountains 51 "What's happening?" I asked. "Oh, are you awake, Barbara? That's good," Mother said. "We are going to start in an hour." "Start where?" I yawned, sitting up under my mosquito net and rubbing my eyes. "You funny little girl," Mother said, coming over:o my bed and loosening my net so that I could get out. "Have you forgotten all about our trip to the mountains?" "But we were going to start on that tomorrow." "It is tomorrow already, dear," Mother said, laughing. "It is just half-past four in the morning." "Morning, and so dark?" I asked; but I jumped out of bed without any more questions, because I did not want to miss the train that was to take us to the beautiful mountains. I was ready before either Father or Mother, for in Manila I wore only three things besides my socks and sandals. Father and Mother had to wear more "for appearances," they said, but they both wished they could dress as I did. Nowadays in New York, when I have to put on my leggings and arctics and mittens and sweater and coat and fur collar and toboggan cap, besides all the other things that take so long in the morning, I feel pretty 52 Barbara's Philippine Journey homesick for nice warm Manila and my three little pieces of cool clothing besides my socks and sandals. After a while Mother and Father were through putting on their "appearances,'" and we all sat down to shining. They /:.... '~ breakfast, with were pale little though, andthei lights went out:../; 'before we had finished. The n Manila the stars hurried to hide before he could peep at them. The sun was rising when we started for the station in our two-wheeled carromatas, and it was shining hot into the queer little railroad cars when we reached the station. It turned the cars into ovens, in which we baked on that long, thirsty day. The train began To the Benguet Mountains 53 to move at half-past six in the morning, but we did not get to our journey's end until five o'clock in the afternoon. And we did not go very far, either. Father told us that in the United States it would have taken us ess th anNew York half as long a time.? But here i s a funnyuch a way that thing about thel day to get anywhere. FWe should nilipinos. When minded it very much if we had nothey pay foew inutes my new railroad ridetty and I would run to our motheyrs for a drink. They gave us water as long as it lasted, and bly have' for the them all day to reach a place they are very much In New York pleased, and so the trains are run in such a way that it takes about all day to get anywhere. We should not have minded it very much if we had not become so thirsty. Every few minutes my new little friend Betty and I would run to our mothers for a drink. They gave us water as long as it lasted, and 54 Barbara's Philippine Journey then we had to sit and think of Magellan and his men and how awful it musfhave been for them too out on the salt Pacific Ocean when their water was gone. While we were all miserable with thirst, and I was wishing we had never left New York, my father thought of a fine plan. The engine happened to be taking one of its long rests right in a coconut grove. So Betty 's father and mine left the train and got some Filipinos to climb the tall coconut palms and chop down a lot of coconuts. These coconuts were green and full of juice, which we drank. Some people call the coconut milk delicious. I don't at all. What we drank was lukewarm, of course, but it was wet and we were very thankful for it. There was something strange about it, too, for we did not become thirsty any more after drinking it. Our train journey came to an end at last, and then we found mules and a wagon waiting to take -us through the river and on up into the mountains. There was no bridge, and the four mules splashed bravely into the swift water, pulling us after them in the wagon. The water dashed higher and higher against the wheels, and our wagon jolted roughly over the stones on the bottom. When we were out in To the Benguet Mountains 55 the middle of the river, the water struck the bodies of the two front mules. They jumped, trying to get out of the water, and then turned back for shore. It looked as if we should all be pitched out into the swift river. The driver jerked the reins, yelled, and cracked his whip, but all this did no good. The mules knew where they wanted to go, and it was not where the driver wanted to have them. They had about persuaded the other mules to go back with them, when Father jumped into the water with all his clothes on. "4Oh, Father! What are you doing?" I screamed. "The river will carry you away!" It was making fierce little waves all around his waist. He did not answer, but splashed over to the bad mules and grasped their bridles. They squealed with surprise and anger and waved their ears and tails in all directions. "Come on!" shouted Father, pulling their ears pretty hard. He led them back to their place in front of the other mules and then climbed up on the back of one of them. The driver stood up, waving his whip, and then all four mules together, with great snortings and splashings, galloped through the river to the 56 Barbara's Philippine Journey other side, dragging the heavy, swaying wagon after them. Soon we were riding high and dry over one of the loveliest mountain roads in the world. When the mnules had first begun their jumping, my friend Betty had pulled her hat over her face so that she should not see the terrible things that might happen. She was still holding it there when her mother said, "Would you like to hear about your crossing the river when you were a baby, Betty?' Betty peeped carefully out from behind her hat, and as she saw nothing but smooth road passing under the wagon, and lovely green trees gliding by on each side, she put her hat where it belonged and turned to hear her mnother's story. -:/ CHAPTER VIII DANGERS OF YESTERDAY "Seven years ago, " her mother began, "our baby Betty was very sick, and we had to take her up to the Benguet mountains to save her life. There was no fine road here then, such as we are now traveling on, so we had to god on horseback. Betty was only six months old, and so sick that I wasn't willing to let any one else hold her. The wild men of these mountains, the brave and friendly Igorots, wanted to carry my baby for me. I did let them take baby Tommy, who was two years old, but I kept baby Betty in my own arms, or rather in one arm, for the rain was;'09;i'5 is;::^ ~! 57 58 Barbara's Philippine Journey pouring over us and one arm I needed to hold my umbrella." "How could you hold the bridle reins, then? Betty asked. "I couldn't. I really needed three hands, but having only two, I had to let the horse go as he pleased. Hie followed the other horses in our party pretty well. Up and down the steep trails he went after them, but on the steepest, stoniest spots he often slipped, and Betty and I would almost slide off, first over his head and then over his tail. Often the trail took us by the edge of great precipices, and I sometimes wonder now how it happened that we did not slip off and go down, baby and pony and all. "When we first started out and came to the river, the little horse didn't want to go through. Neither did I, for the water was rushing along very fiercely; but I knew that on the other side of that water were waiting life and health for my poor pale baby, and so I urged the little pony to take us across. A good Igorot went into the stream to lead him, the way Barbara's father just now led the mules. When we got to the middle of the stream the poor little horse fell down on his knees and down I was plunged into the 11 @"1' E;*^''\:"^ How Baby Tommy traveled at Baguio 60 Barbara's Philippine Journey water; but I managed to keep my seat in the saddle. Dropping my umbrella, which went sailing down the stream, I raised the baby high in my arms to keep her out of the water, while the pony was struggling to get hack on his feet. It looked for a minute as if the stream would surely roll him over, and Betty and me with him, but at last with a big effort he rose to his feet and splashed swiftly up to the bank. Then the good Igorot who had helped us across ran along the bank after my umbrella, which had luckily been caught in some bushes a little way down the stream." Here Betty's mother looked at her. "What are you smiling at, Betty?" she asked. "I was thinking how silly I was to be frightened just now, after going through so much worse things when I was a baby." "That's the way to talk, Betty," said her father. " There isn't much to fear now in the Philippines. It was a wild and dangerous country when the Americans first came here, but they have changed it. Your mother and I went through plenty of dangers then. The Spaniards had taken very poor care of the country. There were awful sicknesses here waiting to strike people down. You yourself Betty, almost Dangers of Yesterday 61 died, and so did Tommy, because we couldn't get good, clean milk as we can now. Besides the sickness and the dangers of traveling, such as your mother has just told you of, the land was full of thieves and even murderers. Once a thousand wild Igorots in these same mountains set after me with their spears and their axes and tried to take my life. There, I see an Igorot this very minute, leaning against that tree." Betty and I both screamed, and Betty's hat went down over her face again. "Hush!" she whispered. "Don't let him see or hear us." Her father laughed. "Oh, the Igorots are good friends of ours now. They have found out that we treat them kindly and fairly, very differently from the way the Spaniards did." Then he called out "Good evening" to the Igorot. The man, who had been watching us silently, showed his white teeth in a smile and gave a little grunt, which was his way of greeting friends. "Come, Betty," said her father, "come out from your hat and take a good look at our handsome friend." He certainly was worth looking at. I had never 62 Barbara's Philippine Journey seen a living thing like him, for he looked very much like the pretty bronze statue we have on our mantelpiece at home. He had the same shining brown color and had no more on him than the statue. Our wagon soon went around a bend, and we could not see him any longer. "Are there many more like him" I asked. "The woods are full of them,7 said Betty's father. "There are about a hundred and seventy thousand Igorots in these wild mountains. If you think that man was wonderful to see, you will surely enjoy seeing the fat, brown Igorot babies. You'll see plenty of the little tots before long." The shadows were falling fast in the forest by this time, and we could see only a little way into the woods. I wondered how many bright, black eyes might be peeping at us from behind the tree branches. I could hear strange noises and calls in the darkness, and I wished I were sure that all the Igorots were as friendly as the one who had smiled so pleasantly at us. I was very glad when at last our wagon stopped at a low bamboo bungalow where we were to spend the night. I thought it would be good to have a roof and Dangers of Yesterday 63 walls between us and the woods, and whatever might be in them. But in that I was disappointed. The bamboo hotel was already full of people. They couldn't let us have any rooms at 11, and we had to sleep-where do you suppose? Out on the floor of the porch. Betty and I asked to sleep nearest the walls of the house, so that any one who tried to get us would have to step over three or four people first. Our mothers said they were willing for us to sleep there, but that we must overcome all our fears that night, for the next night we should sleep right out in the forest. Betty and I screamed a little at such a terrible idea, and we hugged each other close; but even then our fears were beginning to leave us. It seemed very good after that long, long day of traveling (you remember that we got up in the dark at half-past four) to be in bed on the nice soft floor of the porch. I really mean nice soft floor, because it was made of woven bamboo. This kind of floor sinks down under your feet when you walk on it and reminds you of the time you had fun jumping on the Deds before your mother stopped you. It was lovely out there on the porch in the night. The waterfall was singing merrily, and the trees were 64 Barbara's Philippine Journey whispering little night songs in their branches and shaking down sweet-smelling breezes that floated over our heads like little dreams. The air was full of cool fragrance, and as I slipped off to sleep, which I did very soon, I heard a little voice in my head saying, "We are in the loveliest place in the world." CHAPTER IX IN THE MULE-WAGON Our night on the porch floor was not a long one, for we were all up at half-past four again the next morning. We still had many miles to. drive before we reached the highest mountains, and it was better for the mules to do their heavy pulling before the sun beat down on them too hot. So before sunrise we were off, our mules trotting gaily through the dark, quiet forest. There were now great mountains on all sides of us, higher and steeper than any I have ever seen even in pictures. Suddenly the top of the highest one seemed 65 66 Barbara's Philippine Journey to turn into gold. "Look, Mother!" I said. "See how it shines!" " Oh, it 's the sunrise!" Mother cried. "Sunrise in the mountains is one of the prettiest sights in the world. " "Where is the sun?" I1 asked. 1"I thought you always saw it at sunrise. " "Not in the mountains," said Mother. "We are deep in the valley where the sun won't find us for another hour. In the meantime we can enjoy seeing him pick out his favorite mountain-tops to shine on. There he is lighting up that high one ahead of us." As we looked, the shining golden light spread over the mountain-top and started creeping gently down the sides. Then we all began to watch for new mountains to be lighted up, and before we stopped we had counted fourteen. "I never thought of the sun as having so much to do," I said. "He's a sort of lamp-lighter for the whole world, isn't he?" Just as I said this something bright struck my eyes, and there, over a low mountain, peeped the sun himself, and really there was a smile on his face. We drove on hour after hour, the mules pulling us In the Mule-Wagon 67 steadily up higher and higher. We would reach the top of a great mountain wall, only to find another to climb beyond it. All the time the air became cooler and sweeter, and finally it grew so cool that we were glad to put on our sweaters. I had not thought of my sweater since I left Japan. "How can we be needing these warm clothes in the hot Philippines?" I asked. "The air in these wonderful Benguet mountains is always cool," answered Betty's father. "There is no other region like them in this part of the world. When people find out about them, as they will before long, they will come in flocks to enjoy them. Already the people in China are beginning to hear of them and are sailing over here to get cooled off." "Why haven't people known about them before?" I asked Betty. "Almost no one dared come here in the Spanish days," answered her father. "Unless a traveler had many soldiers with him, he was sure to be ailled by the Igorots." "Why were the Igorots so fierce with the Spaniards?" I asked. "The Spaniards treated them so badly," Betty's 68 Barbara's Philippine Journey father said. "They took their rice away from them and made them do hard work without any pay. They treated them worse than slaves, and so the Igorots hated them. The time they tried to kill me they hadn't yet learned that the Americans were different from the Spaniards and meant them only good." "Are you sure they all know it now?" Betty asked with a little tremble in her voice, and I thought maybe she was going to pull her hat down over her face again. But she didn't. "They all know it in this region, said her father; "and the result is that not only do the Igorots give us nothing to fear in Benguet, but they serve us as most faithful friends in many ways. More than once an Igorot has gladly shared with me his last chicken and bowl of rice, when I've come to his little hut at dark, tired and hungry after tramping through the mountains. The Igorots have often helped me on my travels, too. They have carried my food and blankets on their backs, guided me through hard places, and taken me across rivers that certainly would have drowned me if it had not been for them." " Oh, tell us about that," said Betty. "Once I was out on a lo-ng, hard hike, as they call In the Mule-Wagon 69 their walking journeys here, and I had for my polistas, or carriers, two fine young Igor-ots named Tongai and Karmofi. They were supposed to carry only my camp things and 'chow'- my food, you know; but whenever we came to a river, Tongai would point to his shoulder. 'Top-side,' he would say, and before I knew it he and Kamofi would swing me up on to their strong shoulders and be out with me in the middle of the stream. "At one time the three of us came near being drowned. There had been a typhoon, and for three days the rain had poured down as it can only in the tropics. -All the streams were badly swelled. We came to one whose usually quiet pools were being, swept by rushing waves. We couldn't cross it in our usual way, and I couldn't spare the time to wait for the water to go down. But Tongai thought of a plan. He found two heavy stones, one of which he handed to Kamofi. Then each of them, holding his stone in one hand, took me by the other, and together, kept down by the weight of the stones, we walked into the river. " "Did the water go over your heads?" I asked. "Indeed it did. When we couldn't hold our breath 70 Barbara's Philippine Journey any longer, we would all give a jump to the surface, and breathe the way seals and whales do, and then we'd go down again. " "Oh, tell us more!" said Betty. "There is a little more," said her father, with a smile. "Just before I crossed this stream I had been joined by a friend, a professor from America, who was traveling alone through the mountains. When he saw me go through the river safely, he called to my polistas to take him across, too; but they gave my friend a long look and shook their heads. " 'No can do, they shouted back across the river. 'Whynot?' Iasked. " There was a good reason. The professor weighed two hundred and fifty pounds and was shaped very much like a rubber ball. It would have taken a bucket full of stones to keep him on the bottom, and then when the time came to jump, his legs would probably have gone over his head. My Igorots were too wise to risk such a mix-up, but they did not altogether fail my friend. They came back through the river at the risk of their own lives, and got a carabao from somewhere and set the professor astride it backwards. Then they handed the animal's tail to him and told him to In the Mule-Wagon 71 hold on tight. The tail must have been jerked more than the carabao liked, for with a squeal he dashed into the water. At the first jump, my fat friend swayed wildly on his unsteady seat, and when the water struck him, he slid right off into it. But he remembered to hold on to the carabao 's tail, even when the current caught him and rolled him over and over like a water wheel." Betty's father laughed heartily, and so did we all. "I suppose the professor wasn't drowned," I said. "Oh, no, not he. He stayed with the carabao, and water buffaloes never drown." "I wish our ride would never end if you'd keep on telling us stories, " I said. "I'd be happy to," said Betty's father, politely; "but I see already where our ride is coming to an end. You'll be all the better off too, for instead of hearing stories you'll be living stories all these weeks in lovely Benguet." Then a turn of the road brought us in sight of our camp, which was dotted with a number of little brown tents. Before the mules had really stopped, our fathers jumped us out over the high wheels of the mountain wagon. In a minute we were running all 72 Barbara's Philippine Journey over the camp and finding the hiding places among the pines and tree ferns, and the mossy caves by the brook. We were so happy that we jumped and shouted and rolled down the green hillside. We formed a procession, Tommy, Betty, and I, and made a little song to sing as we marched by the tents where our mothers were unpacking. Would you like to hear our song? Here it is: We've crossed the ocean blue, To Japan and China too. In countries East or West The fun we find the best, Is where we are today. We're in Igorot land. Hooray! ....... i_; / i. Nt -2..f.f~.Q