QPBLEniNT .y Care and Preservation \RRIAGES, HARNESS, stable Hints. CARE AND PRESERVATION CARRIAGES. HARNESS, Riding Saddles, Etc. Copyright, 1892, by P. F. Murphy & Co. LONDON HARNESS AGENCY, 206 DEVONSHIRE STREET, BOSTON, MASS. P. F. MURPHY S CO. AUTHOR'S PREFACE. We present this little volume to the public, feeling that it may be of some benefit to owners of horses and carriages. The matter contained therein is taken from the best authorities in the world, and is the result of many years' experience and practice. With great pleasure we show illustrations of a few of the St. Pancras English wrought iron stable fittings, which have met with such great favor since we introduced them ; they will be found superior to anything ever shown here, both in point of style and durability, and the reader will be amply repaid by a personal examination at our warerooms. P. f: murphy & CO., London Harness Agency. Boston, March 19, 1892. Position of harness on English Bracket, showing a separate place for Collar, Bridle, Crupper, and Reins ; so placed that no one part comes in contact with another. CONTENTS CARRIAGES. The Coach House, General Care of Carriages, Washing Carriages, Brass and Silver Mountings, Leather Work, Carriage Linings, . Oiling Carriages, . Small Repairs, HARNESS. The Harness Room, General Care of Harness, Washing Harness, Blacking, and the Care of Leather, Patent Leather, Brown Leather Harness, Harness Mountings, Harness Steel Work, SADDLES, BRIDLES, Etc. Riding Saddles, Bridles, Martingales, etc., Saddle Brackets, Care of Various Articles, RUSSET SHOES, . CLOTHING, Etc. . Bandages, . Temperature of Stables, Grooming, Work Horses, Stable Tools, Stable Requisites, ILLUSTRATIONS. ST. PANCRAS STABLE FITTINGS, 17-20 DIRECTIONS CARE AND PRESERVATION OF CARRIAGES. HARNESS, RIDING SADDLES, ETC. Whatever may be the value of the horses, the reputation of the Coach- builder and Harnessmaker, or the skill of the driver, a turnout is never perfect unless it be fresh and brilliant. The care and preservation of carriages, harness, riding saddles, etc., are consequently matters of importance to those interested in appearance and economy, and to builders desirous of acquiring the credit due to their good work. We have, for the sake of clearness, divided this work into separate parts, each being again divided into paragraphs describing the various appliances and operations necessary for the care and preservation of these important objects. CARRIAGES. THE COACH HOUSE. A good Coach house is an essential condition for the preservation of a carriage ; it is probably the most essential. To be really good, the Coach house must not merely serve to protect vehicles against sun and rain ; its situation and internal arrangements should be in accordance with the dictates of reason. It must be located as far as possible from the manure pit, and if near the Stable, must have no communication with it. Ammonia from the manure, when absorbed by the atmosphere, cracks and destroys the varnish and changes the colors, whilst under its influence the whole carriage imperceptibly becomes faded, without any apparent cause, notwithstanding the quality of the materials employed in its construction. Damp, sunshine and dust ar^p so many causes of destruction to the paint and freshness of every part of the vehicle. The Coach house must be dry and well aired ; the building should have doors and windows admitting a moderate amount of light only ; blinds, if necessary, should protect the carriage from the direct rays of the sun. As all walls, especially those of brick, are more or less damp, a carriage should never be allowed to stand close to them. A vehicle standing unused in a Coach house, even for a few days, should be protected by a cover of cotton or linen, sufficiently large to enclose the wheels, and close enough in texture to protect the whole carriage from dust, vvithout excluding a certain amount of light ; great care must also be ta.ken to keep it perfectly dry. It is a well known fact that vehicles used four or five times a week, and for several hours each time, retain their freshness better than when shut up for a long period, however good the Coach house may be. In the latter case, the vehicle should from time to time be drawn out into the fresh air, opened, brushed, and allowed to stand for some hours in a shady place ; it should also be washed off. Hooks for poles, splinter bars, and shafts ; lifting tackle for movable heads or seats ; and a cupboard for necessary utensils, should comprise all the Coach house furniture ; anything likely to cause damp or dust should be excluded. Shelves, for instance, are always bad ; they accumulate dust, which flies about with the least breath of air or falls in a cloud at some unlooked-for moment. Finally, we recommend that the floor be paved with blocks of oak, or laid with asphalt ; the ceiling or roof, free from trapdoors or similar openings, should be plastered and painted. GENERAL CARE OF CARRIAGES. It is contrary to the interest of the owner of a carriage, to use a recently varnished vehicle, whether new or otherwise, as it is prejudicial not only to the brilliancy of the painting, but also to its durability. Forbearing to use the newly varnished carriage for a few days, permits the exterior to acquire that brilliancy which is the result only of a varnish thoroughly hardened and of a perfect finish. A carriage should be frequently washed before being used, in order to harden the varnished surfaces. It should also be washed immediately on its return from the first drive, especially if the weather is wet, as the mud drying upon the panels will cause spots and stains impossible to remove, if the surface of the road contains Hme or similar matter. Stains, however, may sometimes be removed by rubbing them hghtly and carefully with a little wadding, moistened with linseed oil. An excellent habit for a Coachman to contract, is never to let his carriage stand without washing it, whatever may be the time or weather he returns to the stable. Above all things, he must not postpone washing the carriage until the weather becomes wet and the streets muddy, for the dust cannot be entirely removed from the panels with a feather duster, and will rapidly eat into the varnish. Only a good wash off, with plenty of water, will restore the panels to their original brilliancy. A carriage should be dusted only when it is drawn out of the Coach house for immediate use. The selection of a good feather duster should be made with care ; those of vulture feathers, with light-colored, soft, flexible tips are preferable ; but as soon as the tips are broken, it is advisable to procure another duster, which may then be kept for the panels only, the first one being used indifferently for the under-carriage and the lining. WASHING CARRIAGES. It is not every one who can readily and properly wash a carriage ; the operation requires great care and practical knowledge. Never wash in the sun or on loose soil ; in the first case the panels dry so quickly that, before they can be wiped off, stains are caused; in the second, mud is produced, from which it becomes difficult to entirely free the vehicle. The carriage should therefore be placed in the shade, or indoors on a wash stand specially prepared in some portion of the Coach house, and close to the water supply. In washing during frosty weather, the operation should take place under shelter, in a higher temperature than out of doors. A jack of any shape with a leather- covered lever, one or two pails, two sponges, two soft chamois leathers, and plenty of water form the necessary requisites for washing. The carriage, taken to the proper place, must be first stripped of all fittings, such as cushions, carpets, etc., etc. ; the aprons should be unfolded, the head closed and, in short, all the trimmings liable to be wet, protected as much as possible. Water should be applied to the panels by a hose, until the mud is entirely removed. Where a continuous supply of water is not available, a kind of small hand pump may be used with advantage to force the water on to the panels. In default of this instrument, a pail or watering can should be used, and water thrown copiously over the wheels and undercarriage ; when a large sponge saturated with water, is squeezed over the panels, the mud softens and immediately disappears. I.t is essential that the sponge be squeezed, not rubbed over the panels. Great care should be taken to avoid driving water into the body of the carriage and damaging the lining. The mud or dust being removed, the operation should proceed as follows : Wash first the roof or head of the body, and wipe it with a chamois leather ; continue l)y washing the dasher and aprons, which are folded after being wiped dry ; then the seat borders, floorcloth, wings and bootings of steps. The body should next be washed ; for this it is well to have a special sponge and chamois leather ; water should be used plentifully for every part of the carriage, but above all for the panels. Every part of the body should be cirefully wiped dry. The under parts and wheels are washed last ; each wheel must be raised with a jack, cleaned with a sponge and plenty of water, and carefully dried. . 10 The operation terminated, the pails are rinsed ; the sponges and chamois leathers, which should not be left too long in the water, are cleansed and wrung, but not so dry as to permit them to become hard when exposed to the air. BRASS AND SILVER MOUNTINGS. Brass and plated mountings are the most difficult parts to clean ; no acids, or pigments of a corrosive nature should be employed, or if used, only with the utmost care, and when the mountings are tarnished with verdigris. Many polishing liquids and metallic powders burn or scratch the leather and varnish with which they are bound to come in contact ; hence it is most essential that great care should be exercised in the selection of polishing materials, and only those of recognized quality should be used. Generally speaking, a liquid pohsh will be found preferable for cleansing brass j apply the polish with a woollen cloth, care being taken not to allow the liquid to touch the leather or varnish, wipe dry ; and then polish with plate powder and chamois. For silver trimmings a small quantity of plate powder and a chamois will be found quite sufficient. Beads, caps, handles, etc., should all be treated in this manner. To clean the lamps properly, they should be removed from the carriage ; a little whitening mixed with spirits of wine should be appUed to the plated insides and reflectors ; this, when dry, is rubbed off with a soft rag, leaving a brilliant poUsh ; the lamps should then be dusted with a soft brush, used exclusively for this purpose. The polished parts may be kept a littU greasy, and when necessary, cleaned with a burnisher, or otherwise. There is, however, very little polished work about most carriages ; we shall return to this subject when treating of harness. 11 LEATHER WORK. Heads, aprons, dash-boards, wings, etc., etc., are generally of enamelled or patent leather ; some few carriages, however, have heads and aprons of oil leather. So long as oil leather is new, it should simply be washed, but as soon as it commences to harden, a light coat of pure neats-foot oil should be applied in order to soften the leather. After allowing sufficient time for the oil to penetrate, the leather should be carefully wiped and brushed, to prevent it soiling or damaging anything with which it may come in contact. Enamelled and patent leather do not require so much attention ; washing in an ordinary way and carefully wiping is sufficient, but if from any cause they should become greasy, a little soap with cold water will remove the grease ; should the leather become spotted, use a little linseed oil and wadding as when removing stains from panels. The durability of any kind of leather, depends especially on the care it receives in the Coach house ; whether a carriage is covered up or not, the aprons should be unfolded and stretched out ; the head should never be allowed to remain open, as the leather, when folded together, is apt to stick or crack. In any case, leather should never be allowed to remain in contact with a panel ; the two will infallibly become glued together, necessitating the renewal of the leather or the revarnishing or repainting of the i)anel. It is also advisable, when a. carriage is to remain for some time in the Coach house, to slightly strike the head-joints, still keeping the head up, as this, by removing the strain on the leather, allows it to fold easily and closely when the head is opened. CARRIAGE LININGS. To keep tne lining of a carriage fresh, as much care should be taken against damp as against dust. Cloth and all kind of material must be well brushed, the carpets shaken, the cushions and stages beaten, etc. 12 Carriages with half heads have frequently in addition to the usual Coach house cover, a kind of curtain stretched from the head to the apron, and called a Cat guard. A carriage closed in this way must be frequently well aired, otherwise mildew will appear on the broad-lace, cloth on glass frames, curtains, etc. Moths are the destruction of woollen linings ; to prevent or destroy them, a little camphor should be dissolved in turpentine and placed in a saucer in the interior of the carriage, which should then be carefully closed and the mixture allowed to evaporate. Cayenne pepper or phenic acid is also occasionally used. OILING CARRIAGES. Patent axles, which are now almost exclusively used for private carriages, should be frequently examined and oiled before the caps become quite empty. Specially prepared (ixle oil is considered the best, but should it not be procurable, castor oil may be used instead ; all drying oils, such as linseed, must be carefully avoided, as they gum up the axle, and are apt to make the wheels set fast and so necessitate application to the coach builder. This "setting fast" of the wheels may also result from want of oil, or from the " oiling up " having been carelessly effected. As the proper treatment of patent axles is a work requiring great care and attention to detail, we will describe what is, in our opinion, the best mode of "oiling up." The following articles are indispensable : A board, about twenty inches by eight inches, smooth and clean, on which the caps, nuts and collets may be laid instead of on the ground or floor, from which they would acquire sand or grit, an occurence to be carefully avoided. 13 An iron rod, called a rowker, hooked at one end to clean the grooves and pointed at the other extremity. A bundle of hemp, tow, or clean rags. An oil can, with a feather to the cork, used to oil the axle arms. A wheel wrench, usually supplied with the carriage, one end being used for the caps and the other for the axle nuts ; this wrench should always be carried in the boot of the carriage, in case of accident. Each wheel should be oiled up separately, the carriage jack being placed firmly below the axle during the operation. The cap and the two axle nuts are first removed and placed on the board, the wheel taken off the axle and placed against a wall or other convenient support, the collet is removed from the front of the axle box, and the leather washer from the axle arm or the back of the axle box. The cap, collet, nuts, and leather washer are then wiped clean with tow or clean rags, as are also the axle arm and collar, the hooked end of the rowker being used to clean the grooves. The same instrument is used to clean the axle box, which, owing to its reservoirs, requires special care. Should the oil be clogged on any part, a linen rag dipped in parafine oil or in turpentine will greatly facilitate its removal. The various fittings of the axle and wheel having been thoroughly cleansed may then be replaced. The leather washer is first slightly smeared with tallow, and put on the axle arm close against the collar ; the feather out of the oil can is next used to give the axle arm a coat of oil just sufificiently thin to prevent the oil from dripping ; the wheel is then replaced on the arde, a slight turn right and left being given to it to insure the axle box being oiled in every part. The collet is next put on and forced into its place by screwing up the first axle nut. This should be done so tightly that the wheel turns with difficulty, and when in this condition should be made to revolve five or six times, — or even oftener if the axles are new, — to insure the collet and nut being in their proper places, and in a manner grind on the collet. The u nut is afterwards slackened until the wheel revolves freely, but without end play, which would allow the oil to escape. The second axle nut, turning in an opposite direction to the first, is screwed tightly against it, and keeps it in its place. The threads of these nuts are, like those of the cap, Uable to be crossed, if the precaution is not taken to first screw them on with the fingers before using the wrench ; we, therefore, recommend great care in handling them, and their immediate repair, should they become damaged. After pouring oil into the cap, to one quarter its capacity, and noting that the thin leather washer is on the flange, permitting it to be screwed tightly against the box ; the cap must be skilfully and rapidly screwed on, without spilling the oil. This will easily be accomplished if the thread be good, and care is taken to place the cap directly in the centre of the box. The inside of the box should never be oiled, the contents of the cap being sufficient to supply the axle arms for two months or more of ordinary work. Should too much oil be used, it will, after filling the reservoirs, escape from the box. 'J'his undesirable result will also happen should the leather washe.r become worn, or should the carriage stand too long in the sun ; in either case no amount of care in "oiling up" will prevent the escape of oil. As soon as the overflow is perceived the carriage should at once be "oiled up," and, if necessary, new leather washers apphed, or the wheels may set fast through want of oil. As the leather washers of both collars and caps wear rapidly, it is advisable to have several spare ones fitted ready for use. The oil should never be renewed in a cap, without completely cleansing the axle and box ; to prevent the arms becoming encrusted, they should be cleaned about every two months • oil should on no account be used a second time. Before using a carriage that has been standing for some time, it is important first to examine the axles. 15 When a carriage has been sent by rail it ought to be examined immediately on its arrival, to ascertain whether the wheels have not set fast during the journey, as sometimes occurs from the vibration of the train having caused the oil gradually to descend into the caps and reservoirs, leaving the arms and boxes dry. In most cases all that is necessary to establish the circulation of the oil, is to place a jack under the axle, raise each wheel from the ground, and turn it right and left, slowly at first and afterwards more rapidly. This precaution should be taken before the carriage leaves the truck, in any case, as soon as it is unloaded. Common axles, while requiring less care than the preceding, must be greased much more frequently. The operation is effected by removing the axle nut and the wheel, applying some special kind of grease to the axle arm, collar and inside of nut, replacing the wheel, and screwing up the nut. The grease used must not, — under penalty of a great increase of draught, — be allowed to dry on the axle. Should it do so, the axle arm must be scraped clean, and a better description of grease used in the future. In "locking^' a vehicle, should the fore carriage creak or turn with difficulty, the perch bolt nut must be unscrewed, and the top carriage raised some inches, by means of a screw jack or other appliance. A little dry soap should then be rubbed on the wheel plate and felloe pieces, and a few drops of oil be applied with a feather to the soap and to the perch bolt ; this will at once restore the ease of rotation. Grease is frequently used instead of soap, but we prefer the latter as it is cleaner, is equally effective, and never spreads on to the under carriage as grease is apt to do. The difficulty in turning a fore carriage is sometimes owing to the felloe pieces being worn ; it is on these felloe pieces, and not on the tramsom plate that a wheel plate ought to rest. It will be readily understood that after being worn on the top, the felloe pieces no longer form the same flat surface, and cease to be perpendicular to the perdi bolt, which consequently grinds in the socket and causes the carriage to turn stiffly. As soon as this occurs. 16 the vehicle ought to be taken to the coach builder, who will remedy the evil by packing the felloe pieces or by putting in new ones. When the under carriage has been replaced the perch bolt nut must be screwed up, but not too tightly, and the perch bolt key must not be forgotten, as it keeps the nut in its place. SMALL REPAIRS. In addition to the articles we have specified as essential for the care and preservation of a carriage, a coachman should be provided with a bottle of "Black color and Varnish" a pencil and a brush; when treads, steps, roller bolts, etc., loose their freshness through wear or from friction, they may easily be restored to their original appearance by the use of this paint, which should be appUed as thinly as possible. This treatment prevents rust and contributes to that fresh appearance characteristic of the carriages of a large estabhshment. As a rule, small repairs should be executed at once, and it is well to keep a watchful eye on the principal bolts, on the spokes of the wheels, the action of the head, etc., and should any irregularity be discovered, recourse should at once be made to a coach builder, without waiting until other repairs are necessary. A carriage running without having all its parts in their normal condition, will deteriorate daily, and soon necessitate a general repair, that might have been prevented had the first symptoms of wear been remedied at once. It is a good old English proverb that says : "A stitch in time saves nine." In conclusion, we would strongly impress on our readers, that repairs should never be hurried, especially painting or varnishing; such work, when done hastily, is sure to be done imperfectly. "T^ Telescope Harness Cleaning Hook. To hang from ceiling. Harness Cleaning Rack with Moveable Brackets. To fas-ten to tiie wall. The English iron brackets and stable fittings are of wrought iron, and the red color is baked on; less care than brass, do not rust like japan, and give a bright cheerful tone to the interior. In use in the stables in England and France, and recently introduced into the United States by the London Harness Agency, Boston. 18 Position of Gentlemens' Saddle on Bracket. Position of Ladies' Saddle on Bracket. English Saddle Brackets of wrought iron, ventilate the lining of the saddle, allow the pad to expand after use, the moisture to evaporate, and prevent the saddle from falling on either side. 19 Harness Bracket. This English bracket is the best constructed in use. It is light, durable, and ornamental. It keeps the bridle in shape, prevents contact of parts, and entire harness hangs compaqfely. Sponge and Tool Basket. Hose Bracket, 20 Name Plate with Interchangeable Name slide Riding Bridle Bracket. Wrought Iron. Riding Bridle Bracket. Mahogany front, with brass horse shoe. Whip Rack. With brass horse shoe. Halter Log. To place at end of halter shank, to prevent horse from getting cast. ^^ Implement Hook. For Brooms, Forks, Shovels, etc. 2i HARNESS. THE HARNESS ROOM. All our remarks on the position and requirements of a Coach House are applicable to the appropriate arrangement of a Harness Room ; we consider that an oaken floor is indispensable, and that, at least under the harness and saddle hooks, there should be a sheathing of wood to prevent any of the suspended articles coming in contact with the wall. Ammonia, the sun, dust, and especially damp, must be carefully excluded, or they will prove even more destructive in the harness room than in the Coach House. It is even advisable to maintain an equal temperature (say 50 degrees Fahrenheit) so that in winter the leather shall not crack from cold, and the brass or plated mountings shall not be attacked by verdigris, or the polished steel by rust. To accomplish this, some mode of heating the room must be adopted, and the door should be so arranged, that it shall not communicate directly with the open air, which is frequently damp, but shall open into some other room, the Coach House for instance. The interior fittings ought to be in keeping with the importance of the Harness Room ; they usually comprise metal harness and saddle brackets ; racks for riding and driving whips ; specially shaped hooks for bridles and martingales ; a closely shutting glass case for polished steel fittings, such as bits, bridoons, curb chains, pole chains, pole sockets, one or two trestles for harness, a table, a stool, etc. The leading-bars of four-horse Carriages are also frequently kept in the Harness Room, their bright steel fittings being less liable to rust the-re than in the Coach House. A careful coachman will pay great attention to his harness room ; he will dust it frequently, will polish the wood and brass fittings, and when oppor- tunity offers, will take a pride in pointing out to his friends its good order and neat appearance. He will also be careful to keep everything scrupu- lously clean, and when brushing or polishing his harness, will select some place where cleanliness is of less importance than in the harness room. If from any cause the room is to be shut up for a lengthy period, it is advisable to cover up the harness, saddles, and all objects not placed in cupboards or cases, to protect them from dust. GENERAL CARE OF HARNESS. It is not absolutely necessary to clean harness, as is the case with carriages, after each time of using. Should there be no mud, nor very much dust upon the harness, it will be sufficient to brush the oil leather, to dust and wipe the patent leather, and to rub the buckles and other mountings with a dry chamois. It is, however, necessary to wash with a sponge, but without splashing, any parts of the harness which show signs of sweat from the horse, especially such parts as the insides of the collars, the leather panels of the saddles, the girths etc. This washing should take place as soon as the horses have been unharnessed and rubbed down, each part being removed in its turn from the hook which it occupied whilst the horses were receiving the attention of the coachman. This partial cleansing being terminated, the harness should be placed on the brackets provided for the purpose. The same feather duster used for the underworks of the Carriage may be employed for the harness, but to avoid scratching the polished leather it ought to be soft and pliable. WASHING HARNESS. Should the harness be muddy, each part must be taken separately and washed with a sponge, special care being observed in handling the patent leather, which must afterward be dried with a soft damp chamois ; the plain leather may be wiped with an old chamois that has been worn out on the Carriage ; the various parts are then put on a trestle placed in the shade, and when quite dry the blacking-up may commence, an essential operation after washing. BLACKING, AND THE CARE OF LEATHER. The harness having been taken apart and brushed or washed as required, a little liquid harness dressing is poured into a plate or flat vessel and appUed by aid of a small sponge to each portion of the plairr leather, which is then exposed to the air to dry. If a brilliant polish is required, a second application will sometimes be found necessary. A little :\eats-foot oil should be used to counteract the hardening tendency caused by frequent applications of harness dressing. The use of English Harness Composition is daily becoming more general. It is a comparatively hard preparation, composed of beeswax and other constituents of a good harness dressing. The paste is put on with a stiff brush, and the polish is brought out by a vigorous application of the polishing brush ; this process produces a brilliancy unobtainable by the use of any liquid blacking. The other good qualities of this paste are its impermeability to water and the rapidity with which the work can be accomplished. When harness soap is used, first wash with sponge and water to remove all mud and dirt ; then apply a thin coating of soap with a wet sponge, rubbing it well over all the plain leather. If the edges turn red, darken 24 them with edge blacking before putting on the harness soap. Use neats-foot oil occasionally to soften the leather. PATENT LEATHER. The patent leather in a harness should be treated in the same manner as the patent leather on a carriage, either by washing it with water simply, or by applying a small quantity of patent-leather polish. We recommend for the patent leather on the saddles, collars, and winkers, the use of an old silk handkerchief. The old soft silk will not scratch the surface, and will restore the original brilliancy of the leather. BROWN LEATHER HARNESS. To clean and preserve brown or russet leather, first remove all mud and dust by washing with sponge and water ; then apply English Crown Soap with a damp sponge, rubbing it evenly over all parts of the harness ; then brush carefully so as to give it a smooth clean surface. Frequently an English paste is used, and applied with brushes in the same manner as that used for black leather. In any case, we recommend for brown leather, the use of separate polishing brushes. In fact a harness room should contain as many sets of brushes as there are kinds of leather, if the harness is to be kept in proper order. HARNESS MOUNTINGS. The rules already given for cleansing and polishing carriage mountings will apply here. Harness mountmgs are generally of solid brass, or white metal plated with silver or nickel. Nickel, as a rule, readily resumes its 25 original brilliancy, when rubbed with a dry chamois leather, but should it not do so, a little whitening will greatly facilitate the process of polishing. In regard to brass mountings we can only repeat what we have, — when treating of carriages, — already urged against the use of acids. They are equally objectionable for harness, perhaps more so, as by burning the leather around che buckles, they render the harness dangerous to use. We would allow a little more latitude in the use of plate powder, whose effects are injurious chiefly when brought in contact with patent leather, especially when used for arms, coronets or monograms, with which harness is frequently ornamented. Harness makers generally supply a guard, in the shape of a piece of metal cat out to fit round the outline of the various ornaments and so protect the surrounding leather during the process of cleaning. Plate powders and acids will nevertheless penetrate the interstices of the ornaments and, in spite of brushing and sponging, will gradually effect their work of destruction ; the less the care exercised in their use, the more rapidly will their injurious effects be perceptible. HARNESS STEEL WORK. When unharnessing the horse, the bits and chains should be thrown, just as they come from the animal's mouth, into a pail of clean water where they should be allowed to remain a short time ; not longer than half an hour. On being removed from the water they should be carefully wiped dry, and, if free from rust, should be polished with the burnisher. If, on the contrary, any rust be apparent, it must at once be removed by the use of a little damp silver sand, very soft and fine, applied ty means of small pieces or strips of old chamois leather. When the rust has disappeared and the sand has been removed by careful wiping, a burnisher is used to restore brilliancy. 26 The care of steel work generally is greatly facilitated by the use of a board, fixed against the wall, and furnished with hooks, to which the various articles may be attached, leaving both hands available for cleansing and polishing. This board, which we consider indispensible to any establishment of importance, is frequently mounted with sliding hooks, allowing articles of varying dimensions to be attached to them. The same process is followed for hooks and sockets, stirrups, spurs, etc. Curb chains are cleaned and easily polished by rubbing the links against each other in a duster or rubber, adding a little silver sand in case of rust. To clean pole chains, a long bag is used, made of some stout material, sometimes of leather. This bag has a handle at each extremity, a little straw is inserted with the chains, and, when from the backward and forward swinging of the bag the straw becomes reduced to chips, the chains will have acquired a brilliant polish. The steel work, being properly polished, should at once be placed in the harness room and handled as little as possible. It is preferable to keep it in a glass case rather than on an open table where everyone entering the harness room is apt to handle it. To keep the case free from damp, we recommend that a little powdered lime be placed in the bottom and frequently renewed. The lime will, from its nature, absorb any moisture that may be in the air of the case. In a well kept harness room the steel work should never be greased, except in the case of a prolonged absence of the family from home. Careful coachmen will, however, during wet weather, wipe the chains with a greasy rag just before going out, to prevent rust and obviate the labor inseparable from its removal. On returning to the stables the grease is at once removed and the chains again polished. Bits and bridoon?, if plated, are washed in the same manner as those of polished steel, but a little whitening may be used to restore their brilliancy. 27 BROWN LEATHER BRIDLES, MARTINGALES, ETC. Brown leather bridles, martingales, etc., are washed with a sponge and water, or if need be, with castile soap and a brush. To prevent them hardening we know of nothing better than a liberal application of English Crown soap. We recommend this preparation for all these brown leather riding goods, and consider it a most excellent preservative. The bits should be treated according to the instructions given for the care of steel or plated articles. CARE OF RIDING SADDLES. After removing the saddle from the horse the lining should be thoroughly dried, by placing the saddle upside down where the sun's rays or the heat of the room will accomplish the purpose. The lining should then be cleaned with a whisk b/oom or other brush kept for that purpose, so as to free it from any grit or du*- that may have adhered to it while on the horse, and also to keep it soft an^. pliable. Care and attention to those parts of the saddle will not onlyinsui': better wear, but will also guard against the very common evil of sore backs, vhich are often caused by inattention to these simple details. The outside of the saddle must next be cared for. If it has received hard usage, is dusty, muddy or wet, il must be thoroughly cleaned with sponge and water ; or, if badly soiled, c.^stile soap may be used. After being allowed to dry, a light coating of saddle soap should be applied with a sponge ; also a second application, if necessary, to the parts showing wear. After drying again, it should be rubbed over with a woolen cloth or brush. If a brilliant poUsh is desired, put on a small quantity of polishing cream with a piece of flannel, and rub briskly with a chamois or soft brush. The stirrup leathers must be well soaped, and the stirrups properly 28 cleaned. The part of the saddle between the pad and outside skirt should be wiped over with a damp sponge to remove the dust. Leather housings must be well sponged off and occasionally soaped. A felt cloth or pad must be dried and cleansed in the same manner as the lining of the saddle. The woolen parts of saddles out of use should be frequently aired and brushed, as they never spoil so surely nor so rapidly as when left to take care of themselves. Buckskin on saddles should be well brushed ; to remove stains first sponge with water, then mix a solution of Breeches Ball and warm water to the consistency of thick cream and apply with a sponge or brush, rubbing it well into the leather ; when dry, brush thoroughly, and the stains will disappear. The entire process will not be found necessary in all cases or at all times ; for instance, if the saddle is used only a short time each day, dry and brush the lining and use a little saddle soap on the outside, giving a thorough cleansing about once a week. SADDLE BRACKETS. The saddle bracket is a very important factor. The new English one of wrought iron is very much superior to wood or cast iron. Being of light build it ventilates the lining of the saddle thoroughly, allows the pad to expand to its original shape, and the moisture to evaporate. Its peculiar construction prevents the saddle from falling on either side ; this last is very important to ladies' saddles, which, being weighted on one side, often fall to the floor, causing bent horns, broken cantles, and other mysterious injuries never accounted for. CARE OF VARIOUS ARTICLES. Girths and surcingles should be washed with soap and water, and a brush if necessary ; white girths should be pipe-clayed and carefully beaten when dry. Pipe clay is also used for some kinds of apron straps, for the lashes of whips, etc. Stable halters and bridles are cleaned in the same manner as similar portions of the harness, as they happen to be of black or brown leather, etc. All covers and horse clothing, whether of linen or of wool, should be washed, and on no account put away dirty. To protect woollen materials from moths, a liberal use should be made of camphor and pepper ; they should also be frequently aired and brushed. RUSSET SHOES. Sponge well with clean water to remove the dirt. If stained, use Brown Leather Restorer, which should be rubbed well in with a stiff brush. To produce a brilliant polish, wait until the shoes are thoroughly dry, then spread a little English Polishing Cream on a moderately hard brush, rub the shoes well and evenly all over, and polish with a woollen cloth or soft brush. The color of the leather can be darkened by applying the cream while the shoes are wet ; this should be avoided, if no change in color is desired. CLOTHING. It must be remembered that it is far better to keep a horse warm by clothing, than to keep him in a hot stable. Warm woollen blankets are indispensible in obtaining a bright smooth coat, protecting horses from chill, after violent exertion, and keeping them in good condition. Keeping the body warm is a saving in food, strength and vigor ; two suits, — a day suit and a night suit — are required ; when a night suit is removed previous to the morning dressing, it should be brushed and sponged over to remove stains, and hung out to air and dry. If from false economy, the same clothing be worn by a horse day and night, he will constantly be wearing it not only dirty but damp, to the injury of his health and appearance, and would be much better without any clothing at all. BANDAGES. Woolen bandages save time in drying wet legs, and are partly a substi- tute for hand rubbing. Their warmth reduces inflammation, assists the circulation, and so prevents stiffness and swelhng. Linen bandages, kept constantly wet, are useful in cases of bruises, or inflammation from other causes. TEMPERATURE OF STABLES. Stables kept too warm are unhealthy, especially for horses exposed to sudden changes and bad weather, as they feel the effects of external cold, in proportion to the warmth of the stable they stand in. A cool stable with plenty of good pure air makes a healthy horse. Temperature should not be lower than fifty degrees, nor exceeding sixty-five degrees ; better have a cool stable, than one too hot. Food and clothing will keep the body warm ; the lungs should have fresh air. GROOMING. If the horse is heated, or is wet from perspiration or rain, he should on no account be allowed to remain undried for any length of time ; but, if he cannot be attended to at once, he may either receive a temporary wisping of the body and legs, or clothing and bandaging these, leave on the saddle or harness until an opportunity arrives for grooming him ; better still, he may be exercised for a short time, so as to prevent a chill. It is very dangerous to allow the skin to dry by evaporation, and especially in a cold 31 or draughty stable, as pleurisy, bronchitis, and inflammation of the lungs or intestines are very often the result. Cracked and greasy heels are usually caused by wet, either from muddy roads, or from washing the legs and leaving them wet, or imperfectly drying them. Unless they can be thoroughly dried, it is well to leave them alone, or to remove as much as possible of the superfluous moisture, and when convenient, bandage them. When they are dried, they may be cleaned with a dandy brush. The following is the order of dressing a horse after work, according to one of the best authorities : — If very hot, throw a rug loosely over his back and quarters ; in fine weather hitch him in the yard, in cold weather he must be dressed in the stable. Wash and pick out any dirt from his feet, then rub off the loose dirt from his legs and belly with a straw wisp. If there be any white about the legs, soft soap and washing blue must be used the next morning. If the horse's belly and legs are washed, rub all the wet parts with dry woolen cloths and roir bandages on all four legs from the coronets to the knees or hocks. Remove the rug, and rub the horse until quite dry ; then briskly apply a brush until all the sweat and dirt is removed ; follow up with a damp hay wisp to lay the coat smooth ; finish with a chamois leather, or better still, a glove brush. The clothing should now be laid on and well secured by the surcingle. The next step is to sponge and wipe the horse's eyes, mouth, nose, and other delicate parts not covered with hair, and to carefully brush the mane and tail. WORK HORSES. Grooming is not required to the same degree with all horses ; the slow- paced cart or farm horse, or horses which are much exposed to the weather, do not require, and in fact, should not receive so much grooming as carriage horses, hunters, or race horses. Indeed, the former are none the worse for 32 having a little grease in their skin, to protect them from the cold and wet ; but dirt of every description should be removed from the surface, and all loose dandruff brushed from amongst the hair. After being stabled wet from rain or perspiration, the skin must be thoroughly dried, and at supper-time a brisk dry wisping will promote a feeling of warmth and comfort for the night. Opinions differ as to the desirability of washing the legs of cart horses. As a rule, the practice is unnecessary and injudicious ; but when the legs have become thoroughly saturated during labor, there can be no harm occasioned by washing off any mud which may have accumulated amongst the hair. It must, however, be regarded as essential to proper management that, under no pretext, is a horse to be left for the night until his legs have been thoroughly dried. The iron curry comb should never, as a rule, be applied to the skin of horses, as it roughens the coat and cuts the hair. For long rough coats nothing is better than a good dandy brush to remove dandruff, dust, and dirt ; for finer-coated horses, a good bristle brush and a wisp of straw and linen rubber. STABLE TOOLS. In addition to horse clothing, head collars, and rack chains, the following articles are required in a stable where even one horse and carriage is kept : wooden and steel forks, shovel, brooms, stall hoe, squilgee, pails, oats-sieve and measure ; body brush, curry comb, dandy brush, mane comb, water brush, spoke brush, plate brush, carriage brush, feather duster ; sponges, chamois, steel and stable rubbers, steel burnisher, scraper, hoof pick, clipping shears and comb, tail shears, clipping machine, singeing lamp, harness punch, carriage jack, coil of hose, and watering can. 33 STABLE REQUISITES. We have not enumerated all the various tools and utensils necessary for the proper care and preservation of harness ; we have only mentioned the most important of them. We consider that when procuring them, economy should never be studied at the sacrifice of quality. Besides requiring frequent renewal, cheap tools are generally difficult to use, and in most cases produce inferior work ; we would recommend the purchase of these articles from a reliable harness dealer, who, in addition to being a competent judge of tools, is not likely to supply those that will not tend to the preservation and appearance of his own goods, for which he wishes to obtain the credit due to good work, and the increased business which a reputation for excellence is sure to bring with it. ^^: LONDON HARNESS AGENCY, 206 Devonshire St., Boston. Curved Seat — Old Style Saddle. False position. Body turned Sideways. New Straight Seat — Patent Saddle. Correct position. Body facing Front. xf Sore Back. irt dragging by the Stirrup. ^tv sitting on One Side. ^»vJ twisting the Spine. LONDON HARNESS AGENCY Harness, Riding Saddles, Stable Outfits. THK IvAROEST DKALKRS IMPORTED AND DOMESTIC HORSE GOODS, THE SELECTIOIV OF ENGLAND, FRANCE, AND AMERICA. SPECIAL AGENTS FOR St. Pancras English Wrought Iron Stable Fittings. P. K. m:urphy & CO., 206 Devonshire St., Boston. :......,. ■■,.-, HARNESS, AGENCV. )6 Devonshire St., Boston