Breaking and Training UoM m RANK T. BARTON, M.R.C.V.S. AirraoR OF Our Friend the Horse, Etc. JOHNA.SEAVERNS BREAKING AND TRAINING HORSES Rarey's Leg Strap Applied. BREAKING AND TRAINING HORSES FRANK TOWNEND BARTON, m.r.c.v.s. AUTHOR OF The Veterinary Manual for Horse Owners," "How to Choose a Horse, " The Groom's Guide,'" " Sound and Unsound Horses, and How io Tell Them," etc. ILLUSTRATED FROM PHOTOGRAPHS LONDON R. A. EVERETT & CO. (Ltd.) 42 ESSEX STREET, STRAND, W.C. 1904 {All Rights Reserved] DEDICATION TO ALL INTERESTED IN BREAKING HORSES AND TO THOSE WHO ADMIRE AND APPRECIATE A WELL BROKEN HORSE THE AUTHOR PREFACE The Author has been tempted to write this work because he has often experienced the want of a small yet practical guide 'dealing with the subject, reliable information being chiefly contained in more expensive manuals. Of course, each Horse-breaker naturally advocates some particular system— which he chooses to call his own — and it is just this egotism that destroys the value of his information, no matter how successfully he may have applied it. In a book of this class it is essential that theory be ready to shake hands with practice, because without this case of demonstration a book on Horsebreaking becomes merely a delusion. The Author leaves himself in the readers' hands to judge whether he has fulfilled his object. F. T. BARTON Kensington, S.W. CONTENTS CHAPTER I General Principles of Horse Breaking ,. 17 CHAPTER H Breaking Tackle and its Uses . . . . 30 Gentling a Horse — Haltering Colts — The Halter-Twilch — Comanche Bridle or Gag — The Cavesson — The Snaffle — Dumb Jockey — Nose-Twitch — Bridle-Twitch — Rarey's Leg Strap — The Kicking Strap — The Hippo-Lasso — Blindfolding — The Whip and its Use — Mouth Gag — The Standing Martingale CHAPTER HI Exercises in Handling and Throwing Horses 46 Handhng the Head — The Neck — The Fore Limb— The Back— The Quarters and Tail — The Hock, Fetlock and Foot — Throwing a Colt — Throwing with Hobbles CHAPTER IV The Mouth and Aids . . . . . . 65 CHAPTER V Breaking for Saddle Work . , . . 70 12 . CONTENTS CHAPTER VI Breaking to Harness . . . . . . 86 Draught Horses — Harness Ponies for Children CHAPTER VH JUMPING .. .. .. .. ..104 CHAPTER VHI Whips and Spurs — Leading and Longeing . . no Leading — Longeing CHAPTER LX Breaking for Specific Uses .. .. 120 The Park Hack— The Hunter— The Shooting Pony — The Show Jumper — The Lady's Horse — The Harness Horse — Training Polo Ponies CHAPTER X Stable Vice . . . . . . . . 128 Crib Biting — Wind Sucking — Weaving — Eat- ing Bedding — Pawing in Stable — Kicking — Biting — Tearing Rugs and Bandages — Rubbing the Tail — Forge Vice CHAPTER XI Vice Outside the Stable .. .. 142 Kicking in Harness — Setting and Lying Down in Harness — Shying— Rigs and Troublesome Mares — Star Gazing — Rearing — Backing — Troublesome to Catch CONTENTS ' 13 CHAPTER XII Some Accidents liable to occur during Breaking .. .. .. .. 155 Bruised Knee — Broken Knee — Stabs, etc. — Sprains— Capped Hock — Bruised Fetlock — Collar, Saddle and Girth Galls CHAPTER XIII The Breaker's Stable and its Management 165 CHAPTER XIV Horse Breakers and their Responsibility 172 CHAPTER XV Some Circus Tricks .. .. .. 179 Kissing — Begging — To Make a Horse Follow — To Push a Man out of the Ring — Limping — Kicking and Bucking — Bowing — Circus Jumping CHAPTER XVI Breaking, Driving Bits, etc. .. .. 183 Some Breaking Bits — Some Driving Bits — Some Portsmouth-Weymouth Riding Bits — Directions for Fitting the Breeching — Measur- ing for Harness — To Measure Horses for ^ Harness — To Measure for Clothing — To Measure for a Riding Saddle — List of Break- ing Tackle ILLUSTRATIONS Halter Twitch Applied . . Comanche Gag Cavesson Applied Blackwell's Patent Dumb Jockey Near Fore Suspended Holding up Near Fore . . Holding up Off Fore Foot Suspending Near Hind Throwing by Method No. i Method No. 2 Hobbles Applied . . Set of Hobbles . . Collected Walking Walking Non-Collectedly Rarey's Leg Strap Applied Horse Harnessed to Breaking Machine 32 .. 33 .. 35 Applied. 36 .. 48 51 52 55 57 .. 59 .. • 63 .. . 64 .. 75 77 95 Iachine . 97 i6 ILLUSTRATIONS Breaking Bits .. .. .. 183-184 Driving Bits .. .. .. 184-185 Portsmouth-Weymouth Riding Bits .. 186 Brown's Patent Double Dee Breeching .. 187 Stirling's Patent Breech Harness .. 189 Stirling's Patent Breeching .. .. 190 Buck Jumping Saddle .. .. .. 195 Side Saddle .. .. .. .. 195 BREAKING AND TRAINING HORSES CHAPTER I General Principles of Horse Breaking In treating of any subject, there are always certain general principles which should be clearly enunciated before we go any further. For instance, the subject which we are now taking in hand is horse breaking, and I shall begin by asking, and attempting to answer, the broad question : What is the object of horse breaking ? In other words, what is the aim we have in view in training a horse, or in sending him to the trainer ? Well, first of all, we wish to teach the animal to be docile whilst in the stable and, in addition, he must be educated to respond to our actions, or actions and B i8 BREAKING AND TRAINING words combined, whenever called upon to do so, no matter whether he be stabled, or at liberty at the time. For instance, suppose that a horse, after having been turned loose in a grass park, should be unwilling to come to hand when you require him for service. By behaving in this way he is guilty of an act of disobedience which may be taken as proof sufficient that his early training, in this particular respect, has either been neglected, or else that the effects of it have been ruined at some later time. If he had been trained properly, however, there is little likelihood that he will be guilty of such acts of self-will as I have above described. That it is well worth while to give a thorough training to an animal while he is young enough will be admitted by everybody who has ever lost time and temper trying to catch one of the self- willed animals. In the second place, we break a horse in order to teach him obedience and the habit of ready response to our actions and voice whilst he is being either ridden or driven, and with the further object that he may learn to exhibit the best of manners under all circum- stances, whether these be of an ordinary or extra- ordinary description. GENERAL PRINCIPLES 19 A well broken horse should not be guilty of " Acts " either of omission, or of commission. The result of imperfect breaking is commonly to be seen in horses who have the habit of attacking their riders or drivers, as the case may be, in such situa- tions as they apparently conceive are advantageous to themselves. Often, again, in order to frighten, or try and deter the rider, or driver, from contending with them, they contrive to " set up " in situations, which at times prove to be decidedly critical, as the author himself has only too frequently experienced. For instance, they get themselves up against shop windows, w^alls, carriages, railings, etc., in towns, and in the country, threaten to put one into a dyke, or else destroy one's gig by back pressure. One remarkable instance of a horse's disobedience I myself remember. I happened to be watching a stud groom riding a horse in the west end of London one day, when the animal suddenly came to a stand- still in front of some spiked iron railings, on the other side of which there was an area. Thereupon the horse made repeated attempts to dislodge his rider and throw him into the area, and, indeed, had it not been for the fact that the latter kept a firm seat 20 BREAKING AND TRAINING there was no doubt but that this httle trick would have resulted in accordance with the animal's inten- tions. If you train up a foal, however, on anything like the correct principles of breaking you may be pretty well sure that such acts of devilment as the above will be few and far between. More than a hundred years ago the Duke of Newcastle wisely declared that there were no " bad " horses. By this he meant that every horse should be serviceable in such emplo37ments as nature might have fitted and capacitated him for. In other words, it is the breaker or owner that we must blame if a horse fails to be serviceable, owing to work being given him of another sort than that for which he was intended by nature. This is a fact which ought never to be lost sight of by the owners of horses. During the breaking process, we must, of course, submit differently tempered animals to different methods of treatment. There are plenty of sulky horses, for instance, that are not half bad, after they have once become reconciled to the discipline imposed on them at this period. To take an example : There are some horses which will refuse to move when being GENERAL PRINCIPLES 21 ridden or driven, and which show a marked preference for lying down rather than obeying a master's forders. In a case of this sort, the horse should be kept down and given a few smart cuts with a whalebone buggy whip. This will serve as an example of what he may expect should he wish to repeat so ill-mannered a performance. Following a similar principle a rearer is often benefitted by receiving a few good tumbles over with the help of the long reins. Acts of dis- obedience such as I have described are, however, contrary to the laws governing the subjection of the horse, and therefore require no further comment in the discussion as to the object of breaking horses. In breaking hot and fiery animals patience and for- bearance must be used. It is worse than hopeless to think of quelling the tempers of horses of this description by merely employing an extra amount of exertion. A proof of this will be found in the well known remark to the effect that a solid rider of eighty years of age will have a more steadying influence over a fiery horse than a young man of twenty has generally the patience to attain. 22 BREAKING AND TRAINING When a restive horse is ridden for the purpose of breaking him, this should be done in such a manner as will be likely to bring out his disposition. In this way an opportunity will be afforded to you of showing him your superiority over him b}^ repeatedly conquer- ing any resistance he may offer and compelling him into absolute obedience. The best method of inducing a restive horse to show this disposition is to ask him to perform the different actions we may require, and so to learn which of them he most strongly objects to. As a rule a restive horse will have several favourite places, or objects, at which he " sets," and either he will refuse to pass these or will make himself trouble- some in some way whenever he meets with them. A traction engine, motor, etc., will often afford him an opportunity of displaying this vice. To cure a habit such as I have described, you must familiarise him with the object of his dislike or terror. The latter should, in consequence, be frequently passed (first of all at the walk) and the animal's fears will, at the same time, be allayed if you let him stand close to the engine, or what not, when it is out of action. GENERAL PRINCIPLES 23 To force a horse past the object of his dishke by thrashing him is to demonstrate the worst form of horsemanship. I am sorry, however, to say that this is a custom only too frequently practised even by those whom experience ought to have taught better. It is well when riding a horse, such as we have been discussing, towards home, to take different routes, urge him past his stable and so forth until he no longer " hangs fire " at his favourite spots. After a horse has been brought into subjection he should again and again be faced with the object of his dislike until it is all but absolutely certain that he is in no danger of repeating his " knavish tricks " in its presence any more. Be careful, however, never to display the slightest sign of " funk." Once the horseman begins to show hesitation the animal will assuredly take due advantage of the weakness of his rider to re- acquire his old habit in an even worse degree than before. A horse which has acquired vice during his training and yet yields to the superiority of horsemanship shown by a good rider, will often return to his old bad ways when ridden or driven by an incompetant horseman. 24 BREAKING AND TRAINING In discussing the subjection of horses it will be well to repeat that the whip and spurs ought only to be regarded as of a secondary importance. The more resolute and courageous the horse to be broken is the more likely is he to be brought to reason without the use of these appliances. A sulky, hard-mouthed slug, on the other hand, will often answer to nothing quite so well as to the free use of the whip or, if you are riding him, to the spurs. We have now discussed the aim of horse breaking under two heads, the first of these being the docility of the animal in the stable or when at liberty, and the second that he shall have what we may call a " sense of responsibility " when in harness. It will be well to go on and mention some further objects of the horse breaker. One of these, which we may name the third division is the rectification of a " spoiled" horse, i.e., one having indifferent, or bad manners, either alone, or in combination, with some vicious habit. Under a fourth class, we may deal with the education of a horse for some specific purpose, such as hunting, polo, etc. Here, it may be stated, that the earlier the education of the animal is begun the more salutary will the GENERAL PRINCIPLES 25 influence of the trainer be. And from this fact the necessity for early handhng may be inferred with regard both to the higher and the lower creation — the universal law holds good, that the sooner the process of education is begun the more successful will be the ultimate results under normal circumstances. Now that we have defined in some measure the aims of horse breaking, we may proceed to throw out some hints as to its agents and methods. As regards the agent — the breaker himself, he will require the possession of some of the highest qualities of which a human being is capable. Of these the principal may be summed up as follows : — (a) Fearlessness. (b) Patience and perseverance. (c) Coolness. (d) Manipulative dexterity. (e) Resourcefulness. (f) Agility and strength. (g) a just appreciation of the mental differences between himself — the subject and the pupil — the object of his training. In addition to the foregoing qualifications the brakesman must also possess perspicacity in a high 26 BREAKING AND TRAINING degree because the temperament of horses are as diverse as possible, and if we do not take this fact into account we shall end by simply reducing the science and art of horse breaking to one of senseless procedure. Not only must the mental differences of animals be duly noted, but any physical peculiarities must equally obtain our attention. For instance, there are many horses which do not show the least trace of fatigue after a course of labour which would be sufficient to make others both languid and stupid. While educating a horse it is best to bring out his finer qualities by the inducement of rewards. It is the very essence of good teaching, indeed, to provide an animal, after a meritorious display (say) of obedi- ence, with some dainty bite such as a carrot, turnip, piece of sugar, swede, linseed cake, or a handful of beans, etc. A horse will no more forget an act of kindness and the virtue with which it is associated than he will an action of the opposite sort. In the education of horses we are certain to come across many specimens of a "treacherous" disposition. Treachery, I believe, is as incurable as it is often dangerous. GENERAL PRINCIPLES 27 Some persons will no doubt disagree with this state- ment, and cite cases in which this vice has been success- fully banished from horses. I believe, however, that in all or most of these cases the cure will be found to be more apparent than real. Time alone will not efface the disposition of a treacherous animal. If you give him the opportunity he is more likely than not to return to the old offence. Bolters, trap smashers, animals prone to savaging, bucking, etc., are examples of the fiendish type of horse which we have designated under the word treacherous. There is only one course to take with them, and this, though I regret to have to say it, is to give a friendly buhet. In the breaking and training of a horse, the brakes- man has to convey his commands by known signals and the expression of certain " fixed " words. I say *' known signals " and " fixed words " advisedly. Only a person acquainted with this " horse language " should be allowed to handle an animal. In the hands of an incompetant person even a well broken horse may, owing to a misuse or a misinterpretation of these words and signals, be the cause of much trouble to himself and others. The human voice, used in an 28 BREAKING AND TRAINING ordinary tone (or a severe one when required) is of the greatest effect in controlhng a horse's actions, and the breaker or horseman should always be sure to take advantage of its influences. It is astonishing at times what a horse can be trained to do merely by a word or an inflection of the voice. He will gradaully learn to understand from the tone of your voice whether your mood is one of satisfaction, or anger, or fear, and by a similar process he will come instantly to grasp your requirements — whether, for instance, you wish him to halt, trot, canter, turn in his stall, etc. Words, however, must sometimes be supplemented by strong deeds on the part of the horse trainer. Any breach of discipline, for instance, which the animal may be guilty of, should not be allowed to go unpunished in a more material manner. Such punishment as we mete out ought, in order to become effectual, to be in accordance with the nature of the animal's offence and should be delivered at the time at which this takes place. It is utterly useless to adopt coercive measures at some period after an act of bad behaviour. In this connection, it should be borne in mind that the method of compelling discipline adopted by GENERAL PRINCIPLES 29 Rarey and others is only of use for the time being, and probably results in no permanent benefit. I may dose this chapter with a reminder which must to many appear commonplace. But, as human nature stands, there is nothing that so stands in need of constant repetition as the obvious. To sum up, then, it is upon the voice, the reins, the legs and the whip that the horseman must rely in endeavour- ing to form a horse's manners and paces, whether he is in or out of harness, or under the saddle, or whether he is being driven with the long reins. CHAPTER II Breaking Tackle and its Uses Gentling a Horse — Haltering Colts — The Halter-Twitch — Comanche Bridle or Gag — The Cavesson — The Snaffle— Dumb Jockey— Nose - Twitch— Bridle - Twitch — Rarey's Leg Strap — The Kicking Strap — The Hippo-Lasso — Blindfolding — The Whip and its Use— Mouth Gag— The Standing Martingale. Gentling a Horse. — ^This is a very expressive term, and one which has been in use among those accustomed to dealing with horses. The important thing to remember in " gentling " an animal is the necessity for kind and " gentle," though firm, handling. This, indeed, is an essential part of the operation. Before " gentling " a horse, it may be necessary to throw him on the ground. The best method of BREAKING TACKLE 31 doing this is as follows : — ^Tie up one of the forelegs to the surcingle, then, having fixed a rope on the tail, pull the head backwards towards the rings on the pad of the surcingle, the latter being meanwhile kept in its place with a crupper. One virtue of this method of throwing is that it can be carried out by two men. The operation known as " genthng " consists in now passing the hand over different farts of the limbs and body of the animal ; the object of all this is to make the muscles as supple as possible, and become acquainted with the handling of the different parts. Haltering Colts.— If your colts are ''running out," you win have to drive them into an enclosure — • such as a fold, yard, or the like — ^before you will be able to halt€r them. Having done this, provide yourself with an ordinary rope halter, which you will find the most suitable for your purpose. If you cannot get near enough the colt to fix the halter on with your hands, you cannot do better than follow a plan which I have seen farm servants make frequent use of. Twist the halter around the end of a pole, and let the free end also rest on the pole, quite lightly. By this means you will be able to place the part of 32 BREAKING AND TRAINING the halter which encircles the ears in position. After this, you suddenly drop the portion on the pole beneath the jaw, and having withdrawn the pole itself, you will meet with no further difficulty. Fig. I. — Haltee-T WITCH Applied. The Halter-Twitch.— This is a most useful appliance, and one which presents no difficulties to those who wish to make use of it. Indeed, it is easily formed from an ordinary hempen or jute halter. BREAKING TACKLE 33 First of all, you place the halter in position over the horse's head. Then, having made a loop out of the free portion so as to pass behind the ears above, you slip the lower part inside the upper lip. Now that Fig. 2. — Comanche Gag. your loop is in position, you may pull or jerk the rope as tightly and as firmly as may be required. The subduing powers of this form of twitch are very great, and are due, as is evident, to the pressure of the rope C 34 BREAKING AND TRAINING on the animars gums. Naturally, the harder the rope is, the more painful is its use to the horse. For general purposes of restraint you will find the halter- twitch very serviceable. Comanche Bridle or Gag.— This means of restraint is sometimes useful. Make a non-slipping noose around the neck, and then pass the free end of the rope through the mouth from the off-side so that it can be passed through the neck noose on the near side, the free end of rope being jerked as required. The CaveSSOn. — ^This appliance is used by some breakers for rendering horses quiet to handle, etc. It com^ises a leather head-stall having a leather covered band crossing over the nose, which is its re- straining part. A leading rein is attached to it, through which its power is executed. The Snaffle. — ^Amongst all breaking appliances the plain smooth snaffle is one of the most useful. The best results can be obtained by its use, as the horse acquires confidence, and understands the slightest motion of the snaffle. BREAKING TACKLE 35 A plain unjointed snaffle, neither too long, too thin, and with onl}/ a slight bend, is the best sort. When applied, the snaffle should not be pulled up too high Fig. 3. — Cavesson Applied. 36 BREAKING AND TRAINING in the mouth, nor yet allowed to interfere with the tusks. It should be about one-fourth of an inch below the angle of the mouth, and may fasten beneath the lower jaw by means of a projecting strap. Rubber-covered snaffles are exceedingly nice, and particularly suitable for tender-mouthed animals. Fig. 4. — ^Blackwell's Patent Dumb Jockey Applied. Dumb Jockey. — One form of " dumb jockey," is that manufactured by Messrs. Blackwell and Co., Orchard Street, London, W. It is a patent, and com- posed of gutta-percha and whalebone, so that in the BREAKING TACKLE 37 event of a colt rolling over, neither the appliance or the animal can be injured. A complete set comprises : Dumb jockey, cavesson, lunging rein, mouthing-bit, two spring hooks to attach bit to head collar, two bags of shot to weigh the fit and form crest ; the whole outfit costing about six pounds, ten shillings. The dumb jockey is largely used and may be very useful under some conditions, but it is distinctly inferior to the live article. It is an appliance repre- senting a pair of hands only, the whip being required in place of the legs. At the best of times it is merely mechanical, and of course can only be made to act as such. Nose Twitch.— In order to make the simplest form of nose twitch you must first of all bore a hole through the end of a stout cylindrical piece of wood (a part of a fork or broom handle will serve your purpose). Having passed a piece of thin rope through this, you must then tie off a part of it so as to form a loop about the width of the hand. The apphcation of the twitch is simple. Take the loop over the backs of the fingers of the left hand, 38 BREAKING AND TRAINING which at the same time are keeping a firm grip on the horse's nose. Then, with the right hand, turn the stick so as to twist the noose more tightly and cause it to grasp the nostrils of the animal. . There are some horse breakers who make use of this appliance on the first few occasions on which they put a young horse into harness. This, however, is a plan not to be recommended. Not to mention other reasons, it is liable to create a bad impression on an animal's mind, and does not add to his steadiness when he is being put into harness without it. In addition to this one I have just described another form of nose twitch is frequently employed. This is made out of two-hinged pieces of wood, each about ten inches in length, which have been grooved so as to increase their powers of gripping. The nose of the horse is grasped between the portions connected by the hinge and the opposite ends of each are tied tightly with string. This appliance may be described as a sort of nose clamp. Bridle Twitch.— The great use of the bridle twitch consists in its capacity for making a horse stand quietly after his bridle has been put on. The appli- BREAKING TACICLE 39 ance is so well known as almost not to require descrip- tion. The whole trick of the matter lies in slipping one of the reins inside the upper lip of the animal and draw it tight so as to make it press on the gum. Rarey's Leg- Strap.— This is a stout strap used for fastening up a horse's fore leg. It should be about thirty-six inches in length, two inches in width, and quarter of an inch in thickness, and at one end of it there should be attached a stout brass buckle fitted with a keeper. In addition to this there should also be a strong " free running leather keeper " which the other end of the strap may pass through when it has been adjusted. In adjusting the strap you must pass it around the pastern of the animal, and afterwards through the running keeper, the pastern being then drawn up. The knee is now flexed well up to the elbow, after which you must pass the free end of the strap around the forearm and so through the buckle and the keeper placed behind it. Before fastening up a horse's leg it is a wise precau- tion to put on a soft knee-cap. By doing this, you will ensure that if the horse comes down (and if the fall occurs on soft ground) there is little chance of 40 BREAKING AND TRAINING such an accident as capped knee resulting. Having given this warning I may go on to declare that I have found Rarey's leg-strap an excellent method of fastening up the fore limb of a horse. Further, though I have tied some scores of horses in this way, none of the said horses have ever, in any case under my supervision, been unfortunate enough to meet with the slightest mishap. It is a method that I make use of when examining hunters, hacks, roadsters, etc., as to the soundness of their respiratory organs. You will understand my reasons for this from the fact that the amount of exertion in the matter of circus movements — which a horse is thus compelled to under- go, behind the whip in a bare five minutes is equal to half an hour's hard galloping. Another plan of " fastening up " is that of suspend- ing the leg in a plane parallel to the long axis of the body. If you prefer to follow this method, you must take either the same strap, as I have already described, or else a stirrup leather, and fix this around the animal's pastern. After this put on a roller, then flex the knee and suspend it from the roller on about a level with the hocks. The roher, by the way, should either have a D fixed on it just where it goes BREAKING TACKLE 41 under the belly, or if you have not this a short noose of stout cord will do as well, the object being in either case that the leg strap can be held up by it. In using this form of leg strap you should be no less careful to use a knee cap than when employing Rarey's. The Kicking Strap.— A kicking strap should always be composed of the very best leather, and ought to be not less than an inch in width, and half an inch in thickness. Strength, however, is as necessary as suppleness in an appliance of this sort. The shaft couplings, further, should be equally strong. When the strap is fixed in its keepers there must be practically no play between it and the quarters of the animal. In order to be effectual, a kicking, or rather an anti- [ kicking strap, ought to keep the quarters of a horse from rising at all. Judging, however, from the manner in which the strap is often fastened, it is little wonder that so many animals are able to kick as well with it on as without it. The Hippo-Lasso. — ^This leather apparatus is very useful for the purpose of controlling a vicious 42 BREAKING AND TRAINING horse such as a kicker. In order to apply it, you require a breast band and breeching, which are connected to running straps, and in addition, a couple of straps are needed to go over the back of the animal, these in their turn being joined by a short back strap. When the apparatus is properly fixed on, the breast bands should be at the top of the fore-arms, and the breech- ing ought to rest on a level with this, i.e., just below the stifles. The traces or strap connecting breeching and breast band must, to be effectual, be pulled up moder- ately tight and fixed in the keepers. The hippo-lasso is an appliance which has a very subduing influence upon all horses. Blindfolding. — It is often necessary to blind- fold a horse so that he cannot watch the movements of persons around him. This is generally a proceeding without any difficulty. You may either throw an ordinary horse rug over the animal's head or, if you like them better, the leather blinds which are sold by saddlers may be used instead. Should an animal prove very vicious under this treatment, it may be advisable to put on halter-twitch. BREAKING TACKLE 43 The Whip and its use.— In making use of the whip you should always remember that the effect produced by its application depends altogether on two factors, viz. : — (a) The part of the horse's body to which it is applied. (b) The manner in which it is used. One or two good smart cuts given at the right time and in the right place are the very best corrective you can possibly administer to a refractory animal. Be sure, however, that the place is "right" before you 9 touch it. When you are lounging a horse the whip has, to some extent, to take the place of the rider's legs, and therefore, in this instance, it should come down in the neighbourhood of the girthing place. If you are driving a beast in harness, however, the best place to strike him is over the shoulders. One thing must be borne in mind by all who use horses, and that is never whip over the region of the head or limbs, as there is no more hkely method than this for exciting the worst form of vice and nervousness in an animal. 44 BREAKING AND TRAINING Mouth Gag. — ^This appliance is easily made out of some hard wood such as oak or box, etc. A block of wood about two inches thick should be taken and bored through the centre, leaving a hole for a chain which is fixed on to the head stall. The gag should be a little wider than the horse's mouth and its surface ought to be projected in ridges parallel to its long axis. This ridging causes additional pain, which is exactly what is wanted in order to teach a horse the penalties attached to biting. The Standing Martingale.— The standing martingale is one of the best appliances that can be used if you wish to teach a horse to bend his head and neck. When an animal throws up his head with this on he immediately feels a painful pressure on his mouth from the bit, and so learns to abandon this bad habit for the sake of his own comfort. The standing martingale should be attached to the rings of the snaffie and shortened or lengthened in accordance with the discretion of the breaker. Any improve- ment in the animal's habits should be rewarded by some easement. The uses of the standing martingale are several. For " star gazers," for instance, no BREAKING TACKLE 45 better bit of harness can be employed, and it is very effectual while the horse is in action. It has many other uses, however, and there are numerous bad habits which, if it does not cure, it at least restrains or diminishes. CHAPTER III Exercises in Handling and Throwing Horses Handling the Head — The Neck— The Fore Limb — The Back — The Quarters and Tail — The Hock, Fetlock, and Foot — Throwing a Colt — Throwing with Hobbles. Before handling or throwing a horse, you should first of all put on the halter- twitch, jerking it when needful, and at the same time using the word, " Stand," etc. As regards handling, you must, of course, take into consideration the temperament of the animal. Some unbroken horses and colts, for instance, are so quiet that they will readily submit themselves to any reasonable amount of handling, whereas others offer the most stubborn resistance, even when lightly touched. EXERCISES IN HANDLING 47 You will find still another class of animal which objects to having some particular part handled, such as the face, nose, withers, tail, and so forth. This nervousness can be almost invariably traced to some previous rough usage in the regions where the animal resists being handled. Some horses, again, will " rise up " at once directly an attempt is made to touch the mouth for purposes of balling. Under these circumstances, it is best to put a comanche bridle on the refractory animal, and at the same time have the near fore limb held (not tied) up. The halter- twitch turns out particularly valuable when a horse is difficult either to ball or to drench. (For reference to this, see Chapter 2 on "Breaking Tackle and its uses.") Now that you have put on the halter-twitch, the animal should be " gentled " on the legs, head, neck, back, belly, hocks, etc., by means of the hands, or if very vicious the stock of the whip may be used instead. After this, the near fore leg can be held up and the same parts as before gone over with the left hand. You must take care in the meanwhile to stand well in 48 BREAKING AND TRAINING front when handling the hind hmb. Cow kickers are not uncommon, and some horses of this type can do their Httle trick very nicely, even though the fore limb be held up. If an animal will not submit to any a ^^E^j^^^^V ^ B^ )mf' ^ g^jKk 1 mim:^^ sBj^r ^^.;. , _ w m J Fig. 5. — Near Fore Suspended. handling, put him on his back for half an hour, and tie the head and tail together, when you have him down. This step has generally a most subjugating influence. If a young animal, however, has not previously been EXERCISES IN HANDLING 49 made vicious, daily handling, accompanied by soothing and caressing words, will in a short time have a salutary effect, and in this way you will soon be able to get him accustomed to bear portions of harness, such as a saddle, collar, bridle, etc. Handling the Head. — Before handling the head, put on the halter- twitch or the comanche bridle. If the animal you are about to deal with is a biter, put the wooden mouth gag on as well. After this, pass the hand under the lower lip, and rub the latter at the same time. Then move the hand under the lower jaw and along the side of the face until the back of the jaw is reached. When you have got this length, you may continue your rubbing gently upward to the poll, avoiding the ears for the present. Then bring the same hand quietly down over the forehead until the nose and upper lip are touched, and gently rubbed over. When you have done this, repeat the same performance on the off side of the head. After gentling the head for two or three lessons in this way, gradually work on to the ears, pulling them lightly in a downward and outward direction. Some horses D 50 BREAKING AND TRAINING soon get to like having their ears handled in this way, and once they are accustomed to it, it comes in very handy when clipping time arrives, seeing that so many horses have a particular objection to having their ears clipped. The Neck. — Before touching the neck, speak to the horse, using some expression such as " Whoah, my boy," at the same time pass the hand firmly but quietly over the upper part of the neck, gradually bringing it in a downward direction until the front of the shoulder and brisket is reached. Then rub around the collar bed and over the shoulder. The Fore Limb. — When touching this part, begin by speaking to the horse some words such as ''Steady, Donald." You may then proceed to pat the shoulder, and run the right hand slowly down the front and inner faces of the limb. The back of the latter must now be " gentled." While doing this you should stand at the side and use the left hand, bringing this downwards from the shoulder until the knee is reached ; then pass on to the fetlock, EXERCISES IN HANDLING 51 and if there is long hair here, pick up the foot by it, and handle freely. The leg may now be held up by grasping the hoof with the fingers. Fig. 6. — Holding Up Near Fore. In this connection the author may state that when holding up the near foreleg of a shod horse, he prefers personally to have his face looking in the same direction as the horse's, at the same time grasping 52 BREAKING AND TRAINING the shoe and front of the hoof at the toe with the right hand. This holds good, mark you, only when the near foot has to be held up. On the other hand, when the off one is required to be held up, it is better Fig. 7. — Holding Up Off Fore Foot. to turn one's back to the animal's head. In this way the " right " hand is used in both instances. The Back. — The back and ribs require firm but gentle " patting," the voice being used as an aid so as EXERCISES IN HANDLING 53 to give the animal confidence. If needful, the near fore leg can be held up when you are touching these parts, but it is much better to do without this if possible. Should the animal prove restive, a slight jerk on the halter- twitch will probably do all that is necessary to make him quiet. Underneath the belly and flanks is generally a very ticklish part, and some resistance to handling in this region is only what is to be expected. You should remember, however, that patience, kindness and firmness will do much more than " bullying " in getting an animal to stand quiet. When handling the belly, stand well away from the side of the hind leg in case of a " cow kick ; " keep close up to the ribs, however, with the left hand resting on the horse's back, while the right one gentles the belly. The Quarters and Tail. — When handling these regions it is advisable to have up a fore limb, as by doing so a certain amount of protection to one- self is assured. Swishing of the tail is a suspicious sign, and sometimes indicates a kicker. In order to guard against this and other dangers, one must be 54 BREAKING AND TRAINING constantly on the alert when working about the quarters of a vicious animal. Most horses,, however, will be found ultimately open to caresses and persuasion. In case, on the other hand, an animal shows himself particularly vicious, it will be better to blindfold him before touching his quarters. The Hock, Fetlock and Foot- During the preliminary handling of the hock, you should have the fore limb held up. When the hind leg has to be lifted up, however, grasp the cannon in front, standing well to the fore of the front of the limb. The fore leg has now been let down. If the horse refuses to lift the foot required, grip the hamstring (tendon above hock) with the left hand, pull on the fetlock with the right one, and bring the leg to rest on your near thigh, if this be required. In fastening up a hind leg, you will find the following plan useful : Hitch a cord round the fetlock of the limb and then around the animal's neck, and pass the free end of the rope through the neck loop, the rope being held by an assistant. Horses known to be inveterate kickers behind should have the leg pulled up with a hobble and rope, the EXERCISES IN HANDLING 55 latter being fixed to the tail. Much difficulty is often experienced by veterinary surgeons in dressing the hind feet of kickers, and the best way to overcome Fig. 8. — Suspending Near Hind. this is the method recommended by Captain Hayes in his book on " Horse Breaking." A strong cord, twenty feet long, is tied on to the end. of the tail by a " double sheet bend " in the middle of 56 BREAKING AND TRAINING the rope ; a hobble is then put on and each free end of the rope passed through the D of the hobble, one to the "near," and the other to the "off" sides, and held u]) in the meanwhile by assistants. Throwing a Colt. — JtJefore ])utting a horse on its back it is advisable in every instance to keep all food away from it for at least twelve — or, if at all possible, twenty-four — hours previous. It is very important at such a time that the animal's stomach and bowels shall have been properly emptied. Method I.—()i the different methods of throwing a horse, the hrst which I recommend requires a casting- roi)e of ai)Out twelve yards in length, of medium thick- ness, and sufhciently ])liant. Having selected a plot of soft ground, or a straw bed, or some such S])Ot in whicli to ]jerform the throwing business, double the rojje in the middle, and out of the doubled rope make a looj) (non-running) so as to form a kind of collar for the neck. Take care that the loop is not made too tight, otherwise it will i)ress with unfair severity on the windpipe. In placing the loop, let the knob rest on the brisket. Having seen to this, let each free end of tlie rope pass between the fore legs ^■.. 4^ 4% ^^-y.^^^ o o o £ 58 BREAKING AND TRAINING of the animal and around each of the hind fetlocks. Thus it will be twisted once upon itself as it runs up to the neck loop again, through which it is passed on either side. It is a very good plan to have a metal eye on either side of the neck loop, so that the free ends of the rope can pass through these. By these means you will prevent the ropes from slipping up on to the withers, a thing which is liable to happen when there is no proper neck collar. Now that you have fixed your casting-rope, the halter-twitch is put on, and three men are required for each free end of the rope. The position for these men is on the '' outside " of the rope, and they should stand backwards towards the colt's quarters, and the ropes should be pulled in this direction with a steady heave. Still another man is required at the halter- twitch, so that directly the colt comes down there will be some one to sit upon the neck, keeping the head down and well bent back- wards. No colt can rise if these latter particulars be attended to. A rope can, with advantage, be fastened around the elbow, so that an assistant may help to pull the horse over with it. 6o BREAKING AND TRAINING. Now that the animal is thrown, the rope which is uppermost must be adjusted. To this end, it must be drawn up, whilst someone pulls on the hamstring so as to bring the hind limb well forward, and close up to the body- The fore limb of the same side should then be pushed downwards and backwards, and hitched to the hind one, resting on either the inner or outer side. The colt is next turned on its back, and the other side secured in a like manner. The fore limbs can, if heedful, be tied together separately. Method II. — ^The second method presents little diffi- culty. First of all make a flat leather collar for the neck, one that can readily be adjusted, and on either side of the shoulder have a couple of stout steel D's affixed. Next procure a pair of hempen ropes. These should be fairly stout, but neither of them should be less than six yards long. Then make two nooses, one on the end of each rope, and hitch them respectively around the two fore fet- locks ; then pass the opposite 9nds of the ropes through the D's of the hobbles on the hind fetlocks. The fiee ends must then be drawn back and passed through the steel D's on the collar. The colt is now in readiness for throwing. In throwing him, you must pull the EXERCISES IN HANDLING 6i rope backwards towards the quarters as before. It is advisable to put on the halter-twitch when adopting this method. Further, you must remember, when " tying off," to draw the hind limbs well forwards. Method III. — ^There is still another simple enough method of throwing colts, which you may adopt if you like. Put a hobble around each hind fetlock of the animal. Then take a couple of stoutish ropes, neither of them less than eight yards long. On an end of each of these make a noose as before, and hitch the nooses around each fore fetlock. Next pass the free end of each rope through the D's of the hobbles, from within to without. Having done this, we have now a long free end of rope on the near and off sides of the animal. Nothing now remains, indeed, but to throw him. The direction of pulling in this case is " forwards," i.e., towards the head. Having hitched a rope around the near fore arm, pull this firmly to the off- side. If you follow this method, you must remember to throw the horse on soft ground. In order to safeguard against other risks, which will be obvious, you must also put on the twitch, and have the animal 62 BREAKING AND TRAINING blindfolded. Five or six good men are necessary in this as in most other methods of throwing a colt. Throwing with Hobbles.— In this method of throwing four leather hobbles are used, the " main " or principal hobble having in addition a thumb-screw, for the purpose of fixing the hobble chain. The main hobble serves as the " fixed point " in casting opera- tions of the present description, and it is fixed on the pastern of the fore limb on the side opposite to that on which it is intended the animal shall fall. For instance, if the horse is required to fall on the near side, put the principal hobble on the off fore limb. When fastening the hobble around the pasterns, take care that the buckles are always on the outside of the leg. When you have put the hobbles on, the chain on the rope must be fixed by the thumb-screw, and then the ropes passed through the hobble D's from without to within, as shown in the illustration. A couple or three men will be enough to throw the animal, the rope being pulled sharply home, then secured by a spring fastening. When the horse is thrown, one man must keep the head down and drawn backwards. EXERCISES IN HANDLING 63 To release the horse, all you have got to do is simply to unscrew the thumb-screw. In throwing a horse with hobbles, it is an important matter that the best hobbles shall be used. Now, the best hobbles are well Fig. II. — Hobbles Applied. padded. They must be stout and pliant, and ought to have special steel furnishings. A cross hobble will then make the set complete. There are other forms of hobbles, however, which deserve mention here. One 64 BREAKING AND TRAINING of these is without any buckle or keeper, havmg as a substitute a stout steel spring running the length of the hobble itself, and serving to grip the fetlock. Hemp and horsehair hobbles are likewise on the market, and the latter are worthy of commendation on the score of lightness. Fig. 12. — Set of Hobbles, CHAPTER IV The Mouth and Aids It is one of the first qualifications for a horse to have a good mouth, otherwise he will not respond to the aids during either riding, driving, or leading. When a horse has what is popularly known as a " hard " mouth, he makes riding or driving, as the case may be, a labour, instead of a pleasant recreation. There can be no doubt that one of the chief causes of this hardness of mouth is through faulty horsemanship during the time of, or subsequent to, the breaking in of the animal. For riding or driving, the hand should possess an exquisite degree of sensibility and delicacy. The mouth is lined by delicate epithelium, which, 66 BREAKING AND TRAINING by rough handling, becomes replaced in part by tough fibrous tissue cells, in other words, indurated, more especially at the angles of the mouth. To increase the weight on the forehand the rider has only to lean forward in the saddle, draw the feet forward, and lower the horse's head. He can lighten it by leaning hack in the saddle and keeping the horse's head well up. If a horse has a ''good mouth," he will respond to the " aids " (reins, whip, legs, voice, etc.) with promptitude and precision, performing any reasonable requirements. To do this he must carry himself well balanced, which means that he must neither " hang on the bit " or " go behind his bridle," otherwise, he will throw an unequal amount of weight upon the forehand and hind quarters respectively, thus disturbing the equilibrium so necessary for perfection of action. When a saddle horse is trotting, etc., the balance of his body is easily disturbed by a change in position of the rider's seat, hence it follows that any alteration of weight distribution should, in a well schooled horse, be the signal for a definite purpose. This shows the necessity for the rider to keep his position in the saddle equally well balanced when going straight. MOUTH AND AIDS 67 With the reins we can make a horse lower or raise his head, bend the head and neck to the near or off sides, " rein back," stop, etc. In " reining back " in the saddle, the drawn back heel directs the horse's croup. When breaking a horse, he must be taught to respond to the "aids" with both forehand and hind quarters, and not with the former alone as so frequently seen, and indicative of being improperly broken. Heavy hands make hard mouthed horses, moreover they cannot unite a horse. The hand is the principal aid, the others only accompaniments. The " correspondence " is the communication established between the hands of the rider and the horse's mouth. Colts in general are light m the hand, and require to be pressed into the hands by the frequent use of the legs and whip. Horses that have been badly ridden and colts with heavy forehands will bear heavily upon the hand, thus destroying all appui, without which there is no ready response to the aids. 68 BREAKING AND TRAINING When the rider's legs are extended to the front this will cause the horse to extend his also, whereas when both heels of the rider are drawn back and pressed to the side of the horse it causes him to bend his haunches more, or uniting him. More weight is sustained by this, and the forehand, lightened, and elevated, increasing front action, thus making the animal go better in all his paces. He can turn better on his own ground, rein back, move on either hand, halt, etc., and do that which a disuniled horse cannot successfully accomplish. To do this, gradually work the horse up to his full // v/, keeping up the action with the legs, and regulat- ing the pace with the hands. This work should be carried out in circles and straight lines, always keeping in view the object of lightening the forehand, and bringing the haunches well under. If a horse is tardy in uniting, it is a good plan for an assistant to follow him up behind with a whip so as to press his haunches forward, the rider moderately restraining the shoulder action meanwhile. Sometimes a month or six weeks is needful in tutoring a horse for this purpose, before he freely bends his MOUTH AND AIDS 69 head and neck, and brings his hind legs well beneath him, so as to be easily collected. Make it a standing rule always to conclude a lesson at a time when you have obtained at least partial obedience, so that the teacher and pupil will meet on good terms at the next lesson. As a rule a horse that has been defeated several times will give up the contest, although there are, no doubt, many exceptions to this rule in horse breaking. CHAPTER V Breaking For Saddle Work Captain Nolan's Catechism on the Training of Horses. In this chapter we shall chiefly deal with the work of breaking of horses for hack work. For special refer- ence with regard to the training of hunters, the reader must be referred to the chapter devoted to " Jumping." So far as the the general education of both hacks and hunters is concerned, you will find abundant instructions in the chapter on " Breaking to Harness." To proceed, then, to the question of breaking hacks for saddle work. You will do well to go about the business in the following manner : First of all put on BREAKING FOR SADDLE 71 the snaffle bridle, a standing martingale, and long reins, and, if necessary, a halter- twitch. Now fix on a saddle, to which a " dummy " rider has already been firmly attached. You can obtain nothing more suitable for the latter purpose than a bag containing about eighty pounds of corn, which ought to be tied firmly at the end, and across its middle in such a way that an equal weight will fall on either side of the saddle. Mounted with a dummy of this description the pupil should be put through his evolutions, going at the walk, circling, reining back, as described in the chapter on "Breaking to Harness." Many horses show no objection to this part of the business, but when it comes to mounting proper, they frequently display the most decided resistance — -a resistance overcome in some cases easily enough, in others causing the greatest possible trouble. Although it is a plan not altogether free from objection, I should advise the breaker, under these circumstances, to make use of the ordinary nose- twitch. This should be held by an assistant during mounting and dismounting, and these performances ought to be frequently repeated until the animal sub- 72 BREAKING AND TRAINING mits without any display of nervousness. Before removing the twitch, you should lead the horse with the rider on his back, thus training him to the burden he will have to carry. Resistance having been over- come, proceed to circle the horse with the long reins at the walk, the rider steadying himself by twisting some of the hairs of the mane around his fingers. The next step will be to take the animal at a trot, circling and turning him in the same fashion as before. If your progress with the animal has been so far satisfactory, the long reins may be removed and replaced by short ones, the rider now acting independently with his legs and the reins, taking care, however, not to provoke the pupil to resist these " aids." All the while the reins should be held short, so that in the event of the horse's displaying any unruliness, the rider may be able, instantly, to regu- late him, not only by means of the pressure of his legs on the side of the bolt, but also by his hold on the reins. At this point of his education the pupil must be taught to turn easily on the forehand whilst at rest. With this object the rider should incline his body forward and to the right (or left, as the case may be), BREAKING FOR SADDLE 73 at the same time drawing the off (right) rein in a downward direction, and well away from the forehand. The (near) rein ought also in the meantime to be brought slightly to the right until it has come on a level with the withers. Simultaneously with the downward pull on the "off" rein you should stimulate the off quarter with the riding whip and at the same time draw the right leg (from the knee) backwards in such a way as to bring a slight pressure of the foot against the side of the horse's body. In this way the horse is taught to circle his hind quarters — from the right in the present case — around a fixed point, viz., the right (off) foreleg. In a following series of lessons the horse should be taught to turn neatly at both the walk and trot. In order to teach him to do this, lean back in the saddle, and to the side on which you desire him to turn, at the same time draw the right leg (if turning to that side) back to the side. Then the right rein should be pulled backwards and away from the side of the neck, the left hand being meanwhile raised in such a way that the rein which it holds will afford pressure on the side of the desired side of the neck. 74 BREAKING AND TRAINING To teach the animal to turn to the left in this way, you must act in a similar, though converse manner. A very important matter, well to remember, is that the colt shall be taught to go " collectedly " (harmoniously) whether at the walk, the trot, or the canter, otherwise his action at any or all of these paces will be slovenly. In order to obtain this harmonious movement, the rider should draw his heels backwards and apply them closely to the sides of the horse's body. Only under such treatment will the beauties of the trot begin to show themselves, these beauties consisting in its regularity, or in other words, the uniform step of the animal, its gracefulness, its height and its speed. A special fault to be guarded against is that of trotting from the knees only, whereby the colt looses force from want of full action in the upper regions. To teach a horse to " lead off " with the proper leg from the " trot " to that of " canter," the rider should lean either to the right or left (according to the manner in which he is circling the animal), and bend the horse's neck shghtly away from the side on which he desires the animal to " lead off." At the same 1 ro 76 BREAKING AND TRAINING time he should also make use of the drawn back leg upon the side indicated. If he wishes the near fore to lead he should incline the horse's head to the right, apply the drawn back right leg, the rider's body also being inclined to the right at the same time. If the " off " fore is the leg desired, the converse method applies. Certain things ought to be remembered in this connection, (i) The more a horse is collected in the walk or trot, the more readily he is able to change to the canter, and being thus placed upon his haunches, he is in a natural position to work the pace in an easy and graceful manner. (2) When a horse is cantering he inclines to the side opposite to that of the leg he is leading with, and therefore the rider's body and hands should be slightly inclined to the same side. When a horse has been taught to lead off at the canter as desired, the feeling on both reins ought to be equalised, unless in a case where, for instance, the animal canters — if leading off with the right fore — too much to the left. Under these circumstances, the head must be inclined slightly towards the right, but not in such a degree as to result in his changing his L,. o 78 BREAKING AND TRAINING leading leg. In cases where a horse is required to do much cantering, it is advisable to make him lead off with either leg alternately, as in this way the strain is thrown equally upon both limbs, their energy and wear thus conserved. If a horse has not been properly broken to the " canter," he will either go in a fashion known as " false,'' or in that know as " disunited.'' The term " false " is applied if in circling, say to the right, he " leads " with the left leg, and vice versa ; and " dis- united " is the name applied to the motion of a horse when he leads with a hind leg opposite to that of the fore. You will know when a horse is cantering ''true" in a '' right " circle. He leads with the off (right) fore and in a left circle with the left fore. In order to deserve the epithet " united," he must follow this up with the use of the off (right) hind in the first instance, and the near hind in the latter. A horse that is " united " in his canter has a regular and easy action, equally pleasant to horse and horseman. A " disunited " one, on the other hand, moves in a manner equally disagreeable to both, or in regard to turning, even dangerous. In turning BREAKING FOR SADDLE 79 to the right or left at the canter keep the horse well up to his bridle, assisting him by a steady feeling on the outward rein — the pull on the rein, however, suffi- ciently free to allow him to turn to the side desired. At the same time the drawn back leg should be pressed hard against the same side, so as to keep his hind quarters well in. Daily exercises in cantering, and turning at the canter are essential in breaking a horse for saddle purposes. Captain Nolan's Catechism on the Training of Horses. 1. — In riding a young horse at what must you first aim ? Ans. — I must get him to move forward. 2.— What next ? Ans. — ^To step out freely {a) at the trot; {b) at the canter. 3. — ^Then to render him obedient how do you begin ? Ans — ^With gaining control of the head and the neck. 8o BREAKING AND TRAINING 4.-^Why? Ans. — Because the head and neck should precede or begin every movement of the horse. 5 . — How do you set about subduing these parts ? Ans — -By teaching the horse to obey the feehng of the reins. 6.— Do you do this on foot or on horseback ? Ans. — I begin with the bending lessons on foot, and thus prepare the horse to obey the hand when mounted. 7.-^What follows ? Ans — ^Teaching the horse to obey the presence of the leg. 8. — ^How is this done ? Ans. — By circhng him on the forehand and haunches. 9. — Is the horse then sufficiently broken ? Ans — No. For as yet I have only reduced separ- ately to obedience the head and neck, the shoulders and haunches, one after another. 10 . — ^To derive any great advantage from these several separate acts of obedience on the part of the horse, what must you do ? Ans. — I must know how to combine them, and exact obedience from all the parts collectively. BREAKING FOR SADDLE 8i 11. — But how can you do this ? Ans. — I can bring the horse's head home (because he has already been taught to rein in). I can keep his hind quarters on a straight hne (for by circhng on the forehand, the horse has learned to step to the right or left, from the pressure of the leg). I can move his forehand (from his having circled on the haunches). I therefore now proceed to rein back, and bring his loins into play. 12 . — Will reining back alone, then, combine the play of the forehand and haunches ? Ans — Not thoroughly without the use of the spur. 13. — Then in what way does the spur assist ? Ans. — By the use of the spur I oblige the horse to bring his head and neck, shoulders, loins and haunches, all into play at the same time, and by degrees I exact obedience from them collectively. 14. — Explain how this is done ? Ans. — I keep the horse at a walk on the straight line, his head reined in, and bringing the spur close to the sides, touch him lightly at first. This gives the horse a forward impulse, which I quietly control by keeping my hand steady, while the horse's hind legs, which he brought under him to spring forward, are 82 BREAKING AND TRAINING suddenly kept there by the opposition of my hand. I then make much of him and caress him, ease my hand, letting him continue to walk on quietly, till by repeating this lesson, at the slightest pressure of my legs, he brings his haunches under him, arches his neck, and is ready to spring forward, to rein back, or to turn to either hand, as I desire him. 15. — ^But suppose when you stick the spurs into him he throws up his head and dashes off with you ? Ans. — ^This could not happen to me, because I should never communicate an impulse with the leg, which I could not control with my hand. I begin by touching his sides so lightly, and taking it so coolly, neither moving hand or leg, that the animal is never alarmed, thinks nothing of it at first, and thus I go on gradually increasing the dose, till he takes as much as is " necessary " and " cannot help himself." IQ — ^\Vhen do you know that the horse has taken as much as is " necessary ? " Ans. — ^\Vhen I feel the horse so buoyant and light under me, that I can make him spring forward, rein back, or turn to any side, and with perfect ease. 17. — ^And how is it that he " cannot help himself ? " BREAKING FOR SADDLE 83 Ans. — Because I have made myself master, by degrees, of all his strong places, being careful to attack them one by one, and never attempt No. 2 till I am in full possession of No. i. 18. — ^Then, according to your showing, you first make yourself master of the forehand, then of the haunches, subsequently you combine the play of both by "reining back" and using the spur. Do you now consider yourself master of your horse ? Ans — Yes, I do. 19. — When you bend your horse to the right and left, whether on foot or mounted, is it sufficient that he should champ the bit ? Ans. — Not quite ; he should open his mouth and take no hold of it. 20. — Do you continue these bending lessons long ? Ans. — Until the horse yields and opens his mouth at the slightest feeling of the reins. 21. — In " reining back " which comes first, " the pressure of the legs," or the " feeling of the reins ? " Ans. — First, the pressure of the legs, then the feeling of the reins. 22.— Why ? 84 BREAKING AND TRAINING Ans. — Because the support (the hind leg) must be displaced before the weight is thrown on it. If the reins are felt first the whole weight of the horse is thrown on his hand legs, and how can he lift them and step back ? If he succeeds in hfting one leg, it is with a great effort, and he will fall back on it rather than step back, thus being liable to injure his hocks, if forced to repeat it often. Whereas by pressure of both legs, I make him raise one hind leg ; at that moment, by feeling both reins, I oblige him to put that foot down, back instead of forward. I do not throw the horse off his balance, and he can continue stepping back, with as little effort as stepping to the front. 23. — Do the hand and leg work separately ? Ans — No, they should always assist each other. 24. — ^\Vhen circling on the forehand do you ever halt the horse ? Ans. — Yes, when the leg is applied, the horse moves from, it, but when the pressure ceases, the horse should no longer step from it, otherwise when once he begins passaging, he is not easily stopped, and to prevent a horse getting into this bad habit, as well as to teach him to collect himself whenever the leg is applied, after each step in circling on the forehand, I stop him BREAKING FOR SADDLE 85 by closing the inward leg, and by a pressure of both legs, I collect and press him up to the hand, but I never allow him to hurry. 25. — And now how do you pull up a horse when at full speed ? Ans. — By closing both legs and feeling both reins. 26.— Do you mean to say that you pull a horse when at speed by the use of your legs ? Ans — -Yes, the horse is so accustomed to bring his haunches under him at the pressure of the rider's legs, that he does so when at speed also, and I seize that moment to keep him there by throwing myself back, feeling both reins at the same time. 27. — If you did not use your legs what would happen ? Ans — If I did not use my legs, but merely pulled at the bridle, the horse would put his head up or down, and though I should by strength of arm pull him up in time, it would be entirely on his forehand, his nose stuck out, his hind quarters up, his loins arched, and I should be thrown up and down in the saddle in a very helpless way, and thus quite unfit to act on an emergency, as the horse would be under no control. CHAPTER VI Breaking to Harness Draught Horses — Harness Ponies for Children. No matter what class of harness work the animal is required for, it is highly desirable — in fact, necessary — to give it a course of " general education " previous to putting it between the shafts. As regards its subsequent training, this must, of course, be in accordance with the nature of the work that it will be required to perform. The general education of the animal should be begun in the following manner : Put on a snaffle-bridle, in which the snaffle is a plain unjointed one, covered by india-rubber and provided with a strap to fix below the lower iaw. BREAKING TO HARNESS Sj After the bridle has been put on, fix the standing martingale to the rings of the snaffle and to the girth of the driving pad, the latter consisting of an ordinary pad with turrets, or else a saddle, with long stirrups. I may note in this connection it is an advantage to make use of a crupper. The driving reins employed should be stout, seven yards in length. They should pass through the rings of the driving pad, or if a saddle be used, through the stirrup irons. Previous to this, however, the animal ought to be driven without the reins passing through either of these. Having arrived at the stage of con- fined reins, the horse must now be circled first to the right then to the left, and ought frequently to be brought to a halt by a slight pull on the reins. Before long the colt must be taught to stop without being pulled, as a harness horse should respond to some expression of voice. The first lessons ought to entirely be confined to circling the animal at a " walk " only, and any tendency to break through this pace should at once be restrained. Other parts of his education may be at the same time attended to. For instance, it is a matter of importance to prevent a horse from crossing 88 BREAKING AND TRAINING his forelegs in turning. You can now train him cat of this fault without much trouble. For, say you wish him to turn to the right, you have only to pull the right rein precisely a moment before the left fore toot touches the ground, and vice versa . Lessons of about half-an-hour's duration are quite sufficient if given daily and with regularity. Now that I am discussing the walking stage in the colt's education, I may note in passing that in the case of cart horses, the pace required during training is seldom beyond walking. After we have passed the colt through the course advised above, the reins may be passed through the driving pad rings, or the stirrup irons, if these be used as a substitute. In fixing on the driving tackle, however, remember first of all to put on the bridle and the long reins, then the pad or saddle, and follow these with the standing martingale and crupper. When removing the gear, the reverse order is, of course, the correct one. While being driven with the long reins, the animal ought, by preference, be made to go in a circle, and if, in this case, he refuses to respond with his hind quarters don't shrink from making use of the whip. BREAKING TO HARNESS 89 After this the horse should be taught to " rein- back " by bending his head to the right with the rein on the same side. Concurrently with this, moreover, you should make the left rein press against his hind quarters, thus preventing him by the pressure applied, from turning round. The object in view in teaching a horse to rein back is, of course, that he may learn to respond to the pressure of the reins with both fore and hind parts of the body. In this connection there are important differences to be noted in different types of horses. A saddle horse, for instance, when reining back, must, in order to throw weight on the forehand, lower his head, and in this way give the necessary lightness to the hind quarters. A horse used for heavy draught purposes, on the other hand, elevates his head so that the fullest pressure shall be felt behind. For instance, supposing that a horse is standing squarely, i.e., with all legs equally advanced, and you wish the operation of " reining back " to begin with the near hind foot, then turn the head of the animal to the "right" by feeling on the "off" rein (at the same time using the long rein on the " near " side so as to press against his quarter), and in this way make the 90 BREAKING AND TRAINING horse step backwards with the near hind and off fore. For harness purposes we have now sketched out the general education of a horse previous to his being put between the shafts ; and if the animal has been thoroughly schooled after the fashion indicated, there should not be much difficulty in turning him out a safe, useful and good-mannered horse. Before proceeding further, we must mention one very important matter, re the training of a horse to be quiet before motors, steam tractions, at railway stations, bands, and in presence of multifarious street noises, or nuisances as they are called. Before going into the shafts, a horse must be thoroughly broken to all these, or should be, at least, otherwise he will prove quite unfit for service in town. Now, indeed, that motors, motor bicycles, etc., are running all over the country, a horse, not used to these is quite unsafe to drive (or ride) at any time, and there can be little comfort, or peace of mind in sitting on, or behind, an animal given to such. In accustoming horses to motors and so forth, you will meet with different degrees of difficulty with different animals. Some horses, for instance, such as BREAKING TO HARNESS 91 are naturally of a quiet temperament, require very little schooling before getting used to the terrors of the road. More than a few, indeed, pay but the smallest attention, even when they are faced with these machines for the first time. Others again are most troublesome in this respect. Many horse-breakers, for instance, put the animal in harness and drive him in the thick of traffic until he gets accustomed to tractions, motors, music, and all the rest of it. the assistant brakesman dismounting, of course, when the exigencies of the circumstances demand it. In the writers' opinion, however, it is much better to bring the timorous animal into contact with the dangers of the streets when out of harness, either by means of the cavesson and leading rein, or by driving him on foot with the long reins up to a motor, or the like, and circling him around it whilst it is at a stand- still, after that when the machine is in motion. Some large horse dealers keep a motor specially for the purpose, and soon get their scholars to take no notice of it. It is necessary, however, to get a horse accustomed to the sight, not only of motors themselves, but also to the lights they carry, as these are often a cause of a horse becoming restive at night, 92 BREAKING AND TRAINING although he may pass a vehicle of this description all right in the day time. The same remark applies to traction engines, the lights and sounds at railway stations, and the vicinity of railway lines. There is no doubt, however, that motors are becoming so common on our highways and byways, that the horse will almost by nature become used to them. Touch, hearing, and sight, however, are not the only sources through which a horse may be moved to terror. The sense of smell is, in the case of some animals very peculiar, the writer (and no doubt others) having known several instances of horses which mani- fested a decided objection to passing a tan yard, piggery, etc. Under these circumstances, when persuasion fails, it is advisable to lead the animal past the spot to which he may have taken objection, if he be in harness. When he has to pass these odours, however, frequently, the desire to be led is a bad habit to teach a horse, and stimulation with the whip is a better way of training him to obedience. If the general education of a horse is neglected, and he is put between the shafts without BREAKING TO HARNESS 93 any " mouthing," circling, etc., it commonly happens that we have a harness horse, awkward at turning and backing, and with a mouth that only responds (if at all) to tugging and jerking, or a mouth that is hard on one side. Or again, he will turn out a beast that takes notice of, or refuses to pass, the most trifling objects on the road and road- sides — in short, an animal without either manners or pleasurable utility. The general education of a colt having been satis- factorily gone through, we may now safely put him between the shafts. Som.e horse breakers put a beginner alongside a '"schoolmaster" ; in other words, a horse thoroughly seasoned to his work. This custom is ver}^ general in dealing with farm horses, the scholar working side b}^ side with an older horse, during ploughing, etc. Harrowing is an excellent job to put a young farm horse to for the first time. Another practice adopted by certain horse breakers before putting the colt in a brake, is to have one man leading the animal by the head, and another holding on by ropes tied to the traces, the latter allowing the horse to pull him along, and in this way simulating draught. 94 BREAKING AND TRAINING Other encumbrances are sometimes attached to the traces with ropes, and the animal is then driven with long reins, either in a field or along a quiet road. In training a colt it is most important to see that the harness is sound and fits properly. Neglect of this precaution may possibly cause a horse to become a jibber or kicker, whilst defects in the tackle are also liable to be followed by disastrous results, should the animal refuse to draw, or throw a severe strain on the harness. A common practice when fixing a colt in the shafts for the first time, is that of strapping up the fore leg on the near side, and then making the horse draw the machine a short distance on three limbs. The application of the rope twitch to the nose is also extremely frequent on such occasions. Neither of these plans is desirable, unless one happens to have a bad tempered horse to deal with. Repetition, morever, is pernicious, and a good tempered horse may be rendered vicious through the adoption of either of these courses. I think in harnessing a young horse it is best to use an ordinary snaffle bridle, without blinkers. After this, fix on a stout kicking strap, and have a Fig. 15. — Rarey's Leg Strap x\pplied. 96 BREAKING AND TRAINING couple of assistants, each holding a short rein, attached to the snaffle on either side. Then yoke him between the shafts of a light strong cart of some kind. A costermonger's cart does particularly well for such purposes, being strongly built, light, and having a good length of shafts — a great advantage in case of kicking out. A useful form of breaking machine is shown in the accompanying illustration. Now take the reins in your hand and drive the horse from the near side on foot, standing away from the cart and on a level with the middle of the wheel. Start at the walk and go steadily, circling the animal to the left. From the walk change to a slow trot. If the horse takes kindly to his work, the short reins of the assistants may be then hitched on to the turrets. The driver should now take up his position on the " off " side of the horse, and repeat the performance described. Several lessons of this kind may be given before you may venture to drive the anim.al from the seat. If satisfied with the animal's progress, put on a pair of ordinary driving reins. Having done this, walk the horse, trot him, circle him to the right and left, make him rein back, pull up at the word of command, and stand until told to move off. Q W c/; W W CD o K I 98 BREAKING AND TRAINING One word of caution, however, is necessary with reference to making a horse stand perfectly still, whilst getting in or out of the machine, or when making calls. In the writer's opinion, unsteadiness at the moment when a passenger may be getting into a gig or other vehicle is one of the most annoying faults a horse can have, and in some instances, dangerous. It is a fault that any horse readily contracts, and once established, nothing is more troublesome to eradicate. It may be traced, as a rule, to the driver allowing the animal to move off before he has time to get settled in the machine. Before long the horse gets accustomed to this restlessness, and troubles arise. What can be worse, indeed, than to see ladies or gentlemen tumibling into their seats because their horse won't stand ? My advice on this point is : Never allow the pupil to move an inch before you have had ample time to get " rugged up," — not, indeed, until the moment he is told to move. Make this a hard and fast rule at all times, and under all circumstances : for it is a fact few can BREAKING TO HARNESS 99 dispute, that a horse will more readily acquire " bad " than " good " manners. Here, then, is another good habit you may train yourself and your horse to. When taking him out of the shafts, make it a practice — and it is the correct one — to push the gig or whatever form of machine it be, back from the animal, at the same time raising the shafts above the level of the back. The horse, of course, must stand until permitted to go. Some horses acquire that common and abominable habit of rushing out of the shafts directly they feel their tackle undone. Sometimes, indeed, they don't even wait until it is unfastened, or else they catch some portion of it upon the tugs, etc., the outcome of bad teaching. By the way, when taking a horse out of harness, you should remember the following order : First unfasten the breeching, etc., the kicking strap (if used), now the shaft band, and lastly, the traces. Returning, however, to the pupil in harness, the driver, I may add, should give special attention to the animal's paces. A horse ought always, for instance, to walk up hill, and, on the other hand, make the descent at a steady trot, it is not altogether a simple 100 BREAKING AND TRAINING matter to teach a horse to walk right. A horse that has been badly broken, when asked to walk, will often break into a trot. Again, some horses, when going at the walk, will put far too much exertion into it, thus wasting their energy. There are horses that know how to walk and do walk, and others which don't know how to walk, hut try to walk. With regard to animals intended for double harness, there are certain facts worth remembering. A horse that is required to run in double harness should have his paces formed alongside his fellow, seeing that the real beauty of a high class pair of victoria or landau horses, lies not only in the conformation of the animals, but to an almost equal degree in the harmony of their action and equality of their paces and step. One of the commonest faults an observer can see, say in Hyde Park, during the season, is the marked difference in the step of the animals composing pairs, though in other respects the two may be well matched. It is useless, of course, to anticipate perfect harmony of step unless the horses have equality of action ; in other words, " hft " to an equal degree. In order that a pair of horses may acquire such equality of action, I recommend the following course BREAKING TO HARNESS loi of education : Drive them together daily in a brake, changing the sides on which each of the horses is harnessed on alternate days, that in this way they will learn to drive equally well on the near and off sides of the pole. Horses refuse to go forward or go indifferently, when you change them from one side of the pole to the other. This, however, is merely the result of being constantly driven upon the same side. In purchasing horses for double harness, it is well to be on your guard, for it is common custom amongst job masters, when disposing of a pair, to sell one " good " horse and one of an indifferent class. This is frequently the explanation of the faults I have referred to when discussing harmony of action in pairs. Peculiarities of action, such as " paddling " with the fore limbs, or (a fault so frequently seen in cart horses), crossing one fore leg over the other, " screw- ing " a hind leg, and so on, cannot be corrected by any breaksman, and animals subject to any of these faults should never be selected for use in double harness, however serviceable they may be in single. Strictly speaking, horses of this kind have defective action predisposing them to injury. 102 BREAKING AND TRAINING Draught Horses.— Cart and van horses require particular attention in the matter of '' reining back," seeing that this is an action so frequently required of them. They should be schooled in this branch of behaviour both in and out of harness, until thoroughly proficient in it. Many cart horses have not the slightest idea of what " backing " means. In preparing heavy draught horses for " pair " work, you can follow no better course than to harness a young horse abreast of one that is thoroughly up to his work, making sure that the colt has gone through preliminary training with regard to mouthing, etc. Harness Ponies for Children.— Harness ponies for children's use, before you so much as attempt to break them, should manifestly have one qualification — that of inherent docility, or sweetness of temper. It is only ponies of this class, indeed, that can be considered as suitable for breaking for this purpose. Given a pony of a quiet, docile nature, the more children are allowed to handle and feed it, BREAKING TO HARNESS 103 etc., the better for the use of the httle ones it becomes. In training a child's harness pony, there are many things that you should teach it ; for example, to stand wholly unattended in and out of harness, regardless of the playful manner of children : to feed from the hand, and to allow little ones privileges and liberties, essential in juveniles. CHAPTER VII Jumping Many horses are, to use a well known expression, "born" hunters, and very little "tutoring" is required to make an animal of this description thoroughly finished in his work. On the other hand, the same amount of time spent on horses of a different stamp makes only the smallest impression. Before selecting a horse to train him for the hunting- field, you ought to look with particular care into his conformation. This, indeed, is an all-important factor, because if the conformation happens not to be on right lines, the animal can never become really clever at his work. Under the circumstances it is advisable to give the reader an outline of the build of a true jumper. JUMPING 105 His neck should be long and straight, his head light, loins strong, and back freely flexible. He should be strong in his thighs and quarters, with the greatest degree of shoulder and hock actions. For one thing, if a jumper can't bend himself well, he will never come into the front ranks. This qualification is a sine qua non. Another very important matter is that your horse should have " sound eyes " and a sound heart. Regarding wind, soundness, of course, is highly desir- able, but many excellent hunters make a noise, without being worthless on that account. The intensity of the noise varies in its degree. Having endeavoured to give the reader an idea of the particular kind of animal which is likely to develop into a good jumper, we shall now discuss how to train him. The first question that naturally presents itself to the trainer of a jumper is, at what age should his schooling begin ? In the writer's opinion this should not be proceeded with until the end of the third 3'ear, the instruction then even being rudi- mentary. Once your animal has reached the required age, he should be indulged in an occasional visit to the Meet, io6 BREAKING AND TRAINING and so become accustomed to mix with other horses and with hounds, say during cubbing season. Previous to any attempt to jump the horse, a " general education " is required, a portion of the subject which has already been dealt with in the chapter on " Breaking and Training for the Saddle." Proceeding therefore with a simple reminder of the importance of thoroughness in the " education " you give the animal, I shall now discuss the subsequent training of the jumper. The best place in which you can train a jumper is a paddock, in which a graduated series of jumps have already been arranged. The nearer natural conditions are approached in this matter the better will be the results. Your jumps should be graduated on the following scale : A foot or eighteen inches is high enough for the first ; the second one from two to two and a half feet high, and the third three feet. In addition, these jumps should all be arranged on one side of the park, with another series corresponding to them erected at the other side. In the case of the latter you should have the hurdles stuffed up with gorse, and they ought to be about the same height as the other jumps, some having water in front, and others bejiijid, A third set of jumps, in JUMPING 107 which there is a ditch on both the " take-off " and " drop " sides is also a matter of great importance. The fences in the jumps, by the way, may after con- siderable practice, be increased to five feet in height. The width of the ditches used at the jumps must, of course, vary, ranging from half a yard to three yards and a half. Having decided upon a paddock of the above description as the most suitable training ground, the next question that arises is, whether the beginner should be jumped in the saddle, with the cavesson and leading rein, by means of long double reins, or with a couple of leading lines. In my opinion, it is preferable that the colt be jumped with saddle and rider. If the pupil is going to be of much worth at jumping, he will seldom show any great objection to this part of his training. Of course, if the trainer is foolish enough to negotiate big jumps with a green horse, he will have to adopt some artificial means of ensuring his own safety and the safety of the animal in case of an accident. This can be done by means of long reins. First get a pair of stout reins about twenty feet long, each rein being separate in case of io8 BREAKING AND TRAINING the animal bolting, or some such accident. Then you require a standing martingale, a dummy pad and crupper, and a flat (slightly curved) unjointed leather covered snaffle, having a leather strap coming from the covering in such a way as to buckle beneath the lower jaw. After having fitted your colt in this tackle, and given him a few lessons in such matters as circhng, turning, backing, etc., proceed to put him to the jump, and if he refuses to take it after a reasonable trial, he should be led over it with the crupper rein. As already stated, the writer prefers that the horse should jump from the outset with saddle and rider, whenever this is possible. Whatever plan you adopt, patient, regular and steady daily practice is, in this case, as in others, essential to success. The colt must, of course, be taught to jump at the walk, trot, canter, and the gallop. Most important of all, he must learn to mark his time or faces so that he will not take off his fences either " too close " or " too near," a painfully common cause of defective jumping. This is part of the training to which it is impossible to pay too much attention. JUMPING 109 One word more. In every instance the schooling of the colt should take place away from hounds. Once the pupil can give a good account of himself in this portion (the cold blood) of his training, the sooner he is put into the business part of it (hot blood) the better, and no better practice can be had than in the cubbing season. CHAPTER VIII Whips and Spurs--Leading and Longeing Leading — Longeing. There is nothing in which men accustomed to deal with horses require greater discretion than in the apphcation of the whip. The whip, when judiciously employed, is a most useful appliance ; the abuse of it, on the other hand, is likely to be productive of more harm than good. The two all-important matters, which every rider or driver ought carefully to study in this connection, are when to use the whip, and when to abstain from its use. Different animals, of course, must WHIPS AND SPURS m be differently treated. The temperament of some horses, for instance, is such that the shghtest touch with the whip will render them furious, whereas others — the so-called " slugs " in particular — are so hardened in this respect that they will stand as much of the lash as one feels disposed to give them. In the case of animals of this class, the stimulation given has nothing more than the temporary result — if even this — of rousing them to increase their paces for the time being. It is not as a stimulus, how- ever, but as a '' corrective," that the whip discloses its chief value. In a lady's hands, for instance, it takes the place and does a part of the work — in riding — of a man's right leg when pressed against the hack's side. From my remarks as to the corrective purpose of the whip, it will easily be inferred that this is an appli- ance which should never be used when starting a horse. It is a matter of considerable importance that the proper regions of the horse should be chosen for its application. There can be no doubt, however, that the best place to use it upon is the shoulder, whether in the case of saddled or harnessed horses. When used for purposes of correction, let us make 112 BREAKING AND TRAINING sure that the horse will remember the reason of its application. Consideration of the whip naturally leads us on to the subject of spurs and their uses. For bringing a horse "up to his bit " these are essential. They are valuable in cases where one requires to keep up a leg-weary horse and to quicken the paces of a slug. It is no part of their duties, on the other hand, to assist in making a horse turn on the hind quarters. Spurs, to be used with good effect, should be applied just behind the girth. It is by no means an essential of a good pair of spurs that they should be more than ordinarily sharp. Indeed, a rider can " convey as much " with a blunt pair as with highly sharpened instruments. Those who like to get an acute point on their spurs labour under the delusion that the important thing in these appliances is their capacity for torture. How utterly wrong such an idea is may be seen from the fact that experienced horsemen very seldom make use of their spurs at all. At the same time, no matter how little you are going to make use of spurs, it is always advisable that WHIPS AND SPURS 113 a horse intended for the saddle should be gradually accustomed to them. Do not, of course, start off straight away with the ordinary sharp spur, but begin by getting the animal used to the pressure of the mere boot-heel. From this you can proceed to giving him a dose of the blunt rowelless spur, and so on, gradually to the ordinary spur. Leading. — As a rule, not much trouble is experi- enced in teaching a horse to follow one either with a bridle or halter, and if the animal has been already schooled with the long reins, he will be almost certain to " lead " easily. Any trifling obstinacy which he may display under these circumstances can generally be overcome by persuasion and firmness on the part of the person leading him. It is strongly advisable that a horse should be taught to " lead " on both the near and the off sides. It is a general custom, of course, to lead from the near side, probably because in that way the attendant obtains the freest possible use of his right hand, having more control over the animal. There are a few rules with regard to the leading of horses, which it may be well to recapitulate. One of 114 BREAKING AND TRAINING them is that it is usual when leading a horse to keep to the right side of the road. Again, when you are leading another horse upon horseback, the led horse should be kept on the off side. When conducting a horse in this way you should have the leading rein fixed to the ring of the led beast's snaffie on the right (off) side in such a nianner that the free end of the rein then passes through the other ring on the left or near side, so contrived that the leverage of control is upon the lower jaw. In cases where a horse shows any obstinacy when being led, the crupper leading rein should be tried. This can easily be made from an ordinary piece of rope in the following manner : Double the rope and make a knot so as to form a " loop," which then goes under the tail and acts as a crupper. Now pass the free ends of the rope through the rings of the snafile or through the head stall, halter, etc. When you are leading a horse behind a cart, you cannot do better than use the appliance I have just described. Longeing.— The tackle required for longeing comprises the bridle, running reins, roller and crupper. In putting the crupper on for the first time, you must WHIPS AND SPURS 115 of course exercise a considerable degree of precaution, and be on your guard against any attempts the animal may make to strike you. In the case of some horses no difficulty is experienced at this part of the proceedings, but others are not quite so compliant. Stand well forward from the hind quarters when engaged upon this part of the business. Raise the dock with the right hand, and use the left one to pass the crupper under the animal's tail. After this has been done, the tail should be let down gently. Your next proceeding is to clear the hair of the dock from under the crupper, for which purpose you should pass the forefinger on each side between the dock and the crupper. Now raise the crupper close up to the point at which the dock joins the body, and let the latter down again gently. Having adjusted the crupper, see that its position is kept in proper relation to the rest of the tackle. The latter should not be put on too tight — rather loose on the whole — ^for fear the colt should feel " fixed up " in an uncomfortable degree. Once you have made the tackle all right, begin to work the colt round you either at the pace he naturally falls into or at the trot, and you ought to ii6 BREAKING AND TRAINING make use of both hands equally while doing so. When yoQ bring the animal to a halt, reward him with a caress, thus showing him that he has nothing to fear. There are many people, I know, who have the idea that the object to be achieved in longeing a horse is merely to fatigue and in this way bring him to sub- jection. There can be no greater mistake, however, than this. To fatigue him is, indeed, the thing above all others that one wishes to avoid. The real object one has in view in longeing a horse is to familiarise him with the use of the tackle, and, in addition, to render him supple. Take the longeing rein in the left hand, the whip in the right. Now set the colt moving by extending the left hand towards his head, in the meantime using the other hand to touch him behind the croup with the whip. As the colt moves you must also move towards his croup, in this way compel him to keep moving around you. By presenting the whip and letting the longeing rein slip to a greater length, the breaksman should cause the colt to enlarge the circle in which he is going until the animal is moving over about four times as wide an area as the breaker. WHIPS AND SPURS 117 It is a very important matter that you should keep in the proper position with regard to the horse all this time, moving regularly with him. If you advance too forward, for instance, the colt will very likely stop and face you, and perhaps turn about altogether. Again, just as the colt's eye follows you, so must your eye follow the colt, otherwise he is almost certain to break his step. Should he do the latter, either from some laxity on your part, or by some trickiness on his, all you have got to do is to fall to the rear of him and flick him with the whip on the quarters ; or re- start him from the centre of the circle. A longeing lesson should not last longer than from fifteen minutes to half-an-hour, though this, of course, depends largely upon the constitution and temper of the animal. The latter should therefore be noted with the greatest care. Happily the longeing lessons generally enable one to arrive at a pretty correct opinion regarding a horse's temper, action, and so forth. Should your observation show you that an animal has a sweet temper, be careful not to tire him out. For by doing so, you will only render him liable to develop into a slug. ii8 BREAKING AND TRAINING Other animals, in the same way, must be treated according to their various dispositions. A hot tempered horse, for instance, requires patience until he settles down, and a " plunger " demands that special attention shall be paid to the strength of his longeing gear, because if he once succeeds in his attempts to free himself from it, he will have learned a bad lesson, and your training will have to start practically from the beginning again. So much as regards the temper of the horse. I have also mentioned action as one of the things you must make careful note of during longeing opera- tions. Good action, and a good manner of going, are virtues that must be steadily kept in view and insisted upon at the present stage. With this object you must carefully keep him at true paces, viz., walking, or a regular trot. Until he has attained something as near perfection as he can go, when pro- ceeding at the trot, you must abstain from longeing him at the gallop. Of the whip and its uses I have already spoken. I take another opportunity, however, of mentioning the fact that some colts, even of high breeding, do not go any faster for the touch of the whip at their first WHIPS AND SPURS 119 longeing. Some might conclude that this was a bad sign, but not necessarily so. It may be indicative of a mild and patient temper, and one which may easily be trained under gentle and persuasive treatment. As regards the ground which you should select for longeing operations, I recommend a smooth grass plot which is neither soft nor slippery. Often, on the other hand, horses suffering from slovenly action, show a great improvement after being longed in a cloddy ploughed field. If you can find a quiet place for your operations, so much the better. CHAPTER IX Breaking for Specific Uses The Park Hack— The Hunter— The Shooting Pony— The Show Jumper — The Lady's Horse — The Harness In this chapter, the breaking for horses for any particular class of work will briefl}' be discussed, the basis of such work having been dealt with elsewhere in the book. The Park Hack.— To make a really stylish park hack, the animal selected must, by nature, have showy but not high action. Walking and cantering are the chief paces demanded of the park hack, so that a course of school training is the best for this purpose. BREAKING FOR SPECIFIC USES 121 To get a good style of walking, practice at the " col- lected " walk for a few weeks, gradually quickening the walk. As soon as perfection, or as near to perfection as can reasonably be expected, has been attained, the canter should be practised. Begin with a slow " collected " canter and practise this for some weeks, gradually increasing until pro- ficient. Another important item in the special training of a park hack is that of a graceful halt. As many friends meet in the Row, and exchange greetings at the halt, it shows that the animal has indifferent manners if he will not stand during this time. The Hunter. — For the special training of the hunter the reader is referred to the chapter on " Jumping." The Shooting Pony. — In addition to the ordinary lessons of breaking, the shooting pony should stand steadily whilst firing from his back, and if need- ful, lay down at the word of command. To begin, put on the halter twitch and fire blank cartridges, first at a distance from him, then work 122 BREAKING AND TRAINING up closer until within a few feet. Subsequently from across the pony's back. If he will now stand fire, repeat the lesson without the twitch, and then from off his back. To accustom him to lie down requires much more trouble, and can only be done by pulling him over a number of times with a side line, or by tying up a foreleg as given under the lesson on " Throwing Colts." The Show Jumper. —It is not every hunter that is capable of giving a creditable performance on the show field, indeed, the style of jumping is somewhat different, no matter how much agricul- tural and other societies may simulate the natural jump. For this purpose train the horse at short cantering movements, and over gorse hurdles afterwards, ranging from three to six feet high, without a water jump ; subsequently with one. Most show jumpers " splash " the ditch water, it being only the really clever ones that touch neither timber nor water, more especially if the jumps are close and good. BREAKING FOR SPECIFIC USES 123 Much of this work can be done with a side rein, though preferably mounted, and the scholar should go through these exercises at least once every day. The Lady's Horse. — The lady's horse must be thoroughly trained, docile, and free from all road vices, such as shying, bucking, kicking, and rearing, other- wise it is not a lady's horse, no matter whatever its qualifications, either as a hack or hunter. Although a lady may have a firmer seat than a man, she is not effective as regards the use of limbs, conse- quently has to rely upon hands and whip. With her the use of the whip and its spur attachment should become almost a science. A lady's horse should not be allowed to canter with which ever fore limb he likes to " lead off." To make the animal canter with the off (right) fore lead- ing, stronger pressure must be used upon the right rein and strong pressure with the left leg, at the same time using the whip to the near hind quarter. In the same way to canter with near (left) fore leading, extra bearing must be upon left rein. The " inclination " of the lady's body must be in accordance with the leg it is desired the horse shall 124 BREAKING AND TRAINING lead off. In all cases a horse turning or circling to the right should have the right (off) fore leading, and in circhng or turning to the left, the " near " fore leading. The breaker may put on a side saddle and lady's habit during this instruction, or the horse may be schooled by a lady, after the "general education" has been gone through. It is useless to try and break any horse for a lady unless he be good tempered by nature and smooth in his paces. His height should be about 15 hands. The Harness Horse.— In the West End of London, probabl}^ in certain other places as well, there is by many of the " upper ten " a strong liking for very high stepping matched pairs, and unless the action can be described and shown to be "extravagant," the chances of sale to such parties are small. There is no doubt that heavy shoes, knee caps and bearing reins are auxiliaries to this end, certainly augmenting the " show up." The action of the fore limbs frequently overshadows an indifferent or poor hock action, which, to the BREAKING FOR SPECIFIC USES 125 horseman, is even the more important. A lady buyer would, of course, never notice such trifles (?) as these. To become a fashionable harness horse, the animal must have high action — or, what is more useful, good all round action — to begin with, otherwise no amount of training will be satisfactory. When driving the brake, always keep the horse thoroughly collected, both at walk and trot. Train in the school, under the saddle, whenever opportunity offers itself. Training Polo Ponies. - Connemara-bred ponies, when such can be had, make most excellent animals for this purpose. The same remark applies to those horses about 14 or 14-2 hands. When possible, every man should break his own polo pony. First of all, give the pony a thorough general education, such as reining back, circling, and respond- ing with promptitude and freedom to the aids. Most excellent training is that of cantering in the figure of eight, in which the horse describes a couple of small circles inside the large. This is good practice lor a 126 BREAKING AND TRAINING polo pony's training, and equally important is the " bending " course of instruction. For this latter exercise form two long lines of tall sticks — say, six feet high — the space between the lines being about twenty-five yards, and the intervals between the stakes ten yards or thereabouts. Drive the sticks only lightly in the ground. Now canter the pony up one set and down the other, dodging " in " and " out " between the sticks of the same side. Next train to the use of the stick. Naturally the pony will fear this at the outset. Put on the halter twitch, which must be held by an assistant, and then flourish the stick in front of and around the pony. These exercises on foot with the stick must be supple- mented by the same course on his back, but at the halt, until he no longer regards the strokes and flourishes with fear. Repeat this at the walk, trot, canter and gallop. A soft ball may now be employed, substituting a hard ball, first at the walk and then increased paces. The pony must be taught to follow the ball, in fact, to take as much interest in the pursuit of the excite- ment as the player. BREAKING FOR SPECIFIC USES 127 The first season's play must be indulged in more as practice for the pony, and he should not be pushed about too much to disgust him. Before a pony becomes an expert poloist, time and patience are necessary, when given a good mouth, and " the right sort," success is almost certain. High prices are readily given for such animals. CHAPTER X Stable Vice Crib Biting — Wind Sucking — Weaving — Eating Bedding — Pawing in Stable — Kicking — Biting — Tearing Rugs and Bandages — Rubbing the Tail — Forge Vice. Whilst in the stable many horses are given to what may be called " bad tricks," or show certain objection- able habits. The cause of these may often be traced to the fact that the animal in question has not been given sufficient work to do, or as in cases of spiteful kicking, to some bad treatment to which he has been at one time or another subjected. Occasionally, of course, the misconduct arises absolutely from inherent viciousness. There is, unhappily, no royal road to STABLE VICE 129 curing such animals. Some forms of vice can, of course, be rectified, but others are practicahy incurable. Crib Biting. — There are few more objectionable habits to which a horse may be liable than the common one of crib-biting. Further, it is often accompanied by wind sucking, so that many horses are both cribbers and wind suckers at the same time. There can be no doubt that idleness is the cause of the first, at the outset. Common sense, indeed, would tell us, if experience did not, that many horses must cease to crib when they are engaged upon regular work, for they have then no longer any time to gnaw away at the stable fittings, woodwork in corners, halter, and the other usual " furniture " upon which they vent their mischievous instincts. Many plans have been suggested against cribbing, such as smearing the fittings with aloes and treacle, feeding off the ground, the provision of a manger that slides into a recess after the horse has finished his feed, fixing on a muzzle, and so forth. A very good method, which I can recommend, against cribbing, is to do away with all permanent fittings whatsoever, then when you are going to feed the horse, 130 BREAKING AND TRAINING turn his head towards the pillar reins, from the fixed « end of which another pair of chains spring, so that the spring hooks on either side can be attached to a tin manger in such a manner that it is balanced. In this way you will have formed a swinging manger. It is constructed in such a fashion that directly the animal attempts to seize hold of it he pushes it away from him. Wind Sucking.— As I have already stated, wind sucking and crib-biting are two vices that frequently go together. Of the two habits, the former is decidedly the most objectionable, considering that it pre- disposes the animal to attacks of belly-ache and other digestive disorders, of which, indeed, it is in all probability nothing more than a sign. The vice prevails in different animals to different degrees. Many wind suckers, for instance, are very unthrifty, whereas others don't seem to take much harm from the habit they have acquired. A wind sucker may be told from the gulping sound which he makes, this being in some instances very loud, but in others so slight that the attendant in charge of the animal may not be aware of it. STABLE VICE 131 Although the act of wind sucking is apparently simple enough, veterinarians are not altogether agreed as to the source of the wind ; whether for instance the animal actually takes in air, or whether the last named is belched forth from the stomach, is a much discussed question. In the author's opinion, however, the latter is the case, the sound being produced from the back part of the mouth. There is more than one method advised of checking this habit. The simplest and most useful appliance however, consists of a plain strap (about two inches wide) which is fixed around the top part of the patient's throat and fastened to the head cohar or the chain. This should be made fairly tight, compression being altogether indispensable. Amongst other appliances for the same purpose, wind sucking bits may be found very useful. These bits are stoutly made, with numerous holes all over the bar. \A/^eaving. — As the name implies, a weaving horse is one whose head, neck and forehand are constantly in motion. Probably this vice may be traced to some nervousness in the animal affected. The great evil of the habit consists in the fact that the head and neck 132 BREAKING AND TRAINING are scarcely ever stiU, and consequently there must be a large amount of energy wasted. Happily, the vice is one which may be regulated. Different methods are recommended for this, but to my mind one of the best wa^'s of checking a weaver is that of tying up his head so that lateral motion is no longer possible. For this purpose a couple of pillar-reins can be used. Of course, they must be short enough. Eating Bedding. — There is nothing that can be more annoying to those who work in stables than a horse that eats his straw bed. There are some horses even which do not confine their pernicious appetite to straw only, but will eat brackens, peat-moss, etc., the strange thing being that lack of food has nothing to do with this false hunger. If you wish to check this habit, you must never put straw under the manger, because a certain amount of hay usually falls out of the rack, and when the rack feed is finished, the animal proceeds to eat the mixed straw and hay l3'ing on the ground. Further, 30U ought always to take up the bedding in the day, or better still, you should use either sawdust or peat-moss litter as bedding material. You can, of STABLE VICE 133 course, dispense with either of these methods by simply putting a muzzle on the horse after he has had his night feed. Pawing in Stable. — Some horses are con- stantly on the scrape with their fore feet whilst in stable, and in this way they not only wear out their shoes, particularly at the toe, more quickly, but make the stall look very untidy, and cause annoyance in various other ways that I need not detail. Sometimes the scraping goes on all the night through, in many cases preventing those living above the stable from obtaining their proper amount of sleep. There are instances in which it is a sign of disease or pain in the foot. In others, again, we can discover no cause, but the inherent viciousness before spoken of. In order to cure an animal of pawing, many different courses have been adopted. The plan, which is by no means free from objection, is that of " knee haltering," limiting the movement of the feet. A very deep bed of sawdust will be of servica in the treatment of a pawing horse. In some instances again, changing the animal to a loose-box will be found 134 BREAKING AND TRAINING productive of good. It is well worth one's while in the first instance to do all in one's power to prevent a horse from falling into the vice of pawing, for once acquired, it is a habit (a very bad one too) extremely difficult to eradicate. Kicking. — Under this heading I intend to deal with two forms of kicking in the stable, the first of these consisting in maliciously striking out at persons — especially strangers — and at other horses. The second form is in evidence when the animal kicks at the stall post or its partition, either by day or at night. In the latter case it is usual to speak of such a horse as a " night kicker." There are, of course, many varieties and modifica- tions to be noted in the above forms of kicking. Some horses, for instance, will strike out with the forefeet more especially if any operative interference is attempted about the fore part of the body, head, etc. Again, mares when in season, are often given to kicking. Like the human being, the horse does not escape the penalty of his vices. A common result of kicking at the stall-post, for example, is that of " capped hock," in this malady the repeated bruising of the skin and STABLE VICE 135 subjacent structures setting up a slow form of inflam- mation, which ends in the production of a permanent enlargement at the point of one or both hocks. In order to cure horses which kick against the stall post you cannot do better than fix up a stout bundle of whin or gorse on each post, for in this way you make sure that the animal feels pain when the legs come in contact with it, and so learns to avoid it. The stall partition can be padded with this also, or else, if you prefer it, you may use a coarse form of fibre matting, sold especially for this purpose, and equally serviceable in preventing the animal from rubbing his body. As regards striking out with the fore feet, I will mention two preventives. One of these is a form of cross hobble, such as any saddler will easily make for you. Indeed, all that is required in this appliance is : First, a stout strap, made so as to buckle around each of the animal's fetlocks, and also a cross strap, joining the two fetlock straps together. At the middle of the cross strap a very stout metal D is securely fixed in such a way as to serve for the attachment of a rope. The rope being safely tied to this is then passed several times tightly around the chest of the kicking animal and hitched off. 136 BREAKING AND TRAINING You can also with nothing but an ordinary rope improvise an apphance of the sort I have described. Another method of checking kicking with the fore legs, is to strap one of the offending legs, or, if you prefer, to hold it up. Whatever method you choose, in no case omit to put on knee caps, so that in the event of the animal stumbling no damage will result. Malicious inveterate kicking in the stable — and outside of the stable for that matter — is the worst vice possible in a horse, and one difficult to deal with as it is objectionable. Here, if anywhere, prevention is certainly more satisfactory than cure. Should an animal give signs of acquiring this malicious habit, you should lose no time in putting him into a loose box, or if this is not obtainable, in an " end " stall, in this way the necessity for and the danger involved in other horses, or attendants, passing behind the kicker, are both got over. Yet another plan of dealing with a kicker of the inveterate class consists in fixing up a cross bar at the foot of stall, or in the use of swinging bales. Two or three things ought to be kept in mind with reference to kicking animals. Swishing of the tail, for example, is often a sign of the vice under discussion. STABLE VICE 137 You should also remember before going up to the head of a vicious animal, to put the horse well over in his stall, approaching him from the near side. Rough usage is absolutely useless as a cure for kicking. If you maltreat a kicking horse, the animal will surely look for an opportunity to have his own back. With another form of vice, which I am about to mention, however, matters are different. Biting. — Biting is a habit frequently associated with kicking, and sometimes, though more rarely, manifest by itself. Horses are to be found so savage as regards biting that they will stop at nothing short of worrying a man to death. This is a class of animals which have become known as " man eaters." Some entires are particularly given to the biting habit. So vicious a temperament is certainly not a recommendation in an animal when you are looking out for a sire. Still, it by no means follows that the progeny of a biter partakes of the evil habits of his parents. I have stated above that rough usage was worse than useless in dealing with a kicking horse. With a biting 138 BREAKING AND TRAINING animal the ver}^ opposite holds true. Any attempt at biting should be met with a sound application of a whalebone buggy whip. Put on the bridle and make free and full use of the whip every time he shows the slightest inclination to use his nippers. The most intractable biters can be cured in this way. If this plan does not commend itself to the pro- prietor, you can do something towards the prevention of biting by compelling the vicious animal to wear a muzzle ; or better even than a muzzle, a wooden gag, which should be used daily. Tearing Rugs and Bandages. — Many horses are sadly given to this annoying and — for it soon becomes such — expensive habit, destroying their clothing and bandages. To cure it }'ou can cither put on a muzzle at night, or use a cradle. Rubbing the Tail.— Once an animal has acquired the bad habit of rubbing no groom can possibly manage to keep the tail decent. The hairs become broken and matted, and are incapable of being made to look anything like clean or respectable. STABLE VICE 139 When you find a horse afflicted with a passion for rubbing 3"ou should always be careful to discover the cause of the itchiness before going any further. Some- times, of course, the whole thing is only the outcome of a mere bad habit. Frequently, on the other hand, it arises from the presence of mange. Should the latter be the case at any time, it will easily be distinguished, for the disease will not take long in spreading to the other parts of the body. Should the rubbing be due to disease, you will, of course, treat it accordingly. But if it happens to be an acquired habit, you will have at hand a few non- medicinal remedies. One of the best methods of dealing with it is to let the horse wear a tail-case whilst in stable. Another, said to be equally effectual, consists in binding the hair around the tail with two or three pieces of twine. Each of these methods has its own distinctive merits. This latter plan is more thaji ordinarily useful in the case of van and farm horses afflicted with the rubbing iiabit. Porge Vice. — I am including forge vice among the subjects dealt with in this chapter, not because it 140 BREAKING AND TRAINING has anything to do with vice evidenced in the stable, but merely for the sake of convenience. The shoeing smith has many trying experiences, but none more trj'ing than when he is unfortunate enough to be asked to shoe a horse that snatches the foot away directly he picks it up, perhaps " landing out " at the same time. Considering the hundreds of thousands of horses that must be shod daily, this particular vice is not of too common occurrence. When it does appear, it is like kicking. Rough usage only seems to make matters worse. So true is this, indeed, that there are even some coachmen who will not have a twitch put on under such difficult circumstances. A very small matter will frequently allay the animal's viciousness. Often, for instance, a fidgety horse will stand perfectly quiet when those who look after it stand at its head. Measures of so mild a nature cannot, how- ever, be always depended on. Commonly, the safety of the smith and that of the animal demand the employment of restraint. A travis (stock) will be found very useful for restrain- ing purposes. It is not every forge, however, that can boast of the possession of this appliance, and STABLE VICE 141 therefore other simpler means must be had recourse to. Here is one of the simplest. Let a hobble be put around the fetlock of the animal, and let the D of the hobble be attached b}- a rope to the tail. A long rope should now be passed through the same, and held on either side by assistants. Sometimes Rarey's leg strap is of service for the fore feet. Instead of using a hobble, a noosed rope can be used to fix the tail and fetlock in position. In following this plan the chief difficulty is that concerned with holding the ropes. Two or three strong men, however, will generally be able to do the work. If you have no such persons at hand, then pass the ropes (without tying) around posts, so as to give increased leverage. It is seldom that a horse causes much inconvenience while his fore feet are being shod, and even should he do so, there is little trouble in dealing with him. Whether a horse shall become liable to forge vice depends largely upon the " first shoeing." The animal soon learns to know the farrier's shop, and his experience of " shoeing," whether pleasant or other- wise, guides his likes or his dislikes of it, and his future conduct in consequence. CHAPTER XI Vice Outside the Stable Kicking in Harness — Setting and Lying Down in Harness — Shying — Rigs and Troublesome ^^lares — Star Gazing — Rearing — Backing — Troublesome to Catch. Having dealt at some length with the vices which horses are apt to cultivate in the confinement of the stable, I now proceed to give some account of those other and even more dangerous vices which so often detract from the usefulness of the horse. Kicking in Harness.— Kicking in harness is a vice of the worst kind, and once a horse has fairly got the trick of it, it is difficult ever afterwards to say for certain at what moment he may be looked VICE OUTSIDE STABLE 143 upon as really cured. This form of kicking, indeed, is frequently a preliminary of worse to follow, for a horse that is given to kicking in harness cannot l^e trusted to draw the line at running away. As to whether this is or is not an ineradicable vice, it may be laid down that notorious trap smashers are incurable, and no amount of breaking will have the least permanent effect upon them. Milder forms of kicking, however, can be cured under proper management. Some such treatment as the following ought to prove effective. The kicker should be kept on short commons, and his training of the most regular description, extend- ing over at least three months. Before so much as thinking of putting him in the shafts, you should drive and circle him with the long reins, having an assistant at hand with a leading rein. Having done this, put him between the shafts of either a common cart, or one in which the shafts are so long as to allow the horse to kick without hitting the vehicle. If you make use of an ordinary gig for this purpose then it is advisable to put a stout kicking strap on the animal before yoking him. This should 144 BREAKING AND TRAINING be drawn well down on the quarters, and again over the whole harness (all of this before fixing the animal in the shafts). The Hippo-Lasso may also be used, (see Breaking Tackle). The horse should now be walked in a circle to the left and after this the order must be reversed and the animal made to circle at the walk to the right. When the kicker seems to have learnt his lesson well so far, repeat these circling movements at the trot. I have said above that running awa}^ is too often an accompanying characteristic in kicking horses. When kicking in harness is associated with " bolting " it is necessary to use some powerful restraint in the region of the mouth, and for this purpose it is desirable to put on a " halter- tw^itch," the rope of which should be held by an assistant (see Breaking Tackle). With the appliances I have described, keep practising and working your horse with daily regularity. At the end of three months' schooling in this manner, however, if the animal has not given up his vice, it is reasonable to conclude that his vicious habits are incurable. Consequently he must be regarded as unsafe for use in harness, and may be cast off as a VICE OUTSIDE STABLE 145 brute of vile and uncertain temper, unfit for service in at least this capacity, to man. Setting and Lying Down in Harness. — A " jibber " or setter, is a horse that objects to go in the direction that the driver wishes him to. Perhaps he has been proceeding in a straight" enough manner for a part of the journey, until, without the slightest apparent cause, he suddenly turns most pig-headed and comes to an abrupt standstill from which it is almost impossible to stir him. This is a habit which may generally be traced to mere sulkiness of temper, and regular work and low diet are the best remedies for it. The writer once had a cross-bred Arab pony, about 13.2, a confirmed " setter " and " sitter " in harness. Up to the time that it came into his hands — ^when it was already seven years old — it had not been of the slightest use for harness purposes. As soon as it was placed between the shafts it refused to move beyond a yard or two, and having come so far it would lie down as neatly as could be, remaining in a recumbent position as long as ever one liked to wait. Hear, then, the moral of this tale. The pony was cured, 146 BREAKING AND TRAINING and the author's method of curing it was nothing else than the free use of the whip and some practice in driving it in long reins out of harness. It afterwards ]:)ecame a beautiful free working animal, a result which was no doubt, in a great measure due to the fact that it was kept hard at regular work. In dealing with this kind of vice the free use of a stout whip is of special value. In our experience no permanent good can be done without its unstinted application. Of course it must be applied with discretion and not for instance in such a way as to start or turn the animal. For the purpose of breaking a jibber in harness, then, you cannot do better than provide yourself with a whip and set to driving the recalcitrant animal with the long reins. This should be continued, say, for a week or so, during which time you will put him through the usual evolutions, circling him to the left and then to the right ; backing him, and all the time making good use of the voice, employ- ing such words as "Go on," " Back," " Stand," and the usual phrases spoken under the circumstances. Should he at any time refuse to move, then strap up one of the fore legs, and, having done this, fix a rope on his tail, so that an assistant can pull VICE OUTSIDE STABLE 147 this to the same side as that on which his leg is strapped up. Now put on a leather headstall, and after this a leather surcingle (roller) in which three stout rings are firmly fixed on the pad. When you have got thus far, attach the crupper of the harness to the ring which faces backwards. Fix a stout rope to the middle ring and pass this through a ring on the head-stall and back again through the first ring on the pad. Stand in front of the horse, taking the free end of the rope last indicated, and with this draw the animal's head up to the near side. While 3-ou are thus engaged the assistant should be all the while pulling steadily on the tail rope. By following these directions you will succeed in making the horse roll over on his off side. Having got him down, keep him down for a short time, for the great thing in the experiment upon which you have been engaged is to teach the animal obedience. Once you have taught him this, and, incidentally, the fact that lying down is not always a thing to be done for amusement, he will soon give up his evil ways and no longer sit down at inconvenient places. 148 BREAKING AND TRAINING Your whole experiment is an object lesson, and serves its purpose in showing him how he can be conquered. Every time the animal jibs the above lesson can be repeated. After you have tutored him sufficiently' in this way you should put him into harness and drive him, making him circle, turn back, and so on. Shying. — Shying sometimes becomes an exceed- ingly dangerous habit, and one, moreover, which may render an animal in other respects useful, practically worthless. In many cases the habit has its origin in nervous- ness. Frequently, however, it is due to some defect in the animal's vision. When you find a horse tainted with the habit it is advisable at once to have his eyes carefully examined by an expert in order to make sure that the visual organs are free from any radical defect. In these pages, of course, the writer is dealing with horses not from a medical aspect but from the trainer's point of view. Therefore, it is only in so far as shying is traceable to nervousness that it has in the present instance an}' interest for him. VICE OUTSIDE STABLE 149 Under the circumstances, shying is capable of some treatment. Different horses, of course, will shy at different things. Very nervous horses, for instance, will sometimes shy d.t the most trifling objects. A piece of paper suddenly stirred with the wind, the uplifting of an umbrella, and such small matters have an unnaturally disturbing effect in them. Shying at such objects as motors, steam-rollers, etc., on the other hand, is common to nearly every horse that has not been trained to pass these vehicles. Again, some horses will shy at little pools of water upon the road, heaps of stones, and other things more or less trivial. In riding or driving a horse given to shying, 3'ou should always let the animal walk up to any object which you see he is preparing to shy at, and having got him to it turn his head well on to it and let him have a thorough look at it. When driven in an open bridle the horse soon gets to know, by experience, the harmlessness of such objects and ceases to fear them. The prevention of shying is a very important object with the modern trainer. In the present day of noise and bustle it is necessary for every horse to be 150 BREAKING AND TRAINING used to all kinds of road nuisances, and the uselessness of fearing or shying at these should be carefully instilled into him during breaking. Rigs and Troublesome Mares.— If, by the time a colt arrives at the age of two years, both testicles have not come down into the scrotum, it is usual to speak of such an animal as a " Rig " or *' ridghng." It frequently happens that only one testicle at first descends, and when the foal becomes a 3^earling it is, as a matter of course, usual to castrate him, the single testicle only being removed. The other may or may not have descended by the second birthday, if it has not, the colt becomes a nuisance to any mares that are left in the park with him, often vicious. As harness horses, some rigs are particularly dangerous during the breed- ing season, at which time, indeed, no absolute reliance can be placed upon them, even though they have been steady workers for years. When a horse shows any form of vice under the influence of sexual excitement, suspicion immediately points to the fact in all probability that he is a rig. There arc some cases in which both testicles of the VICE OUTSIDE STABLE 151 animal are hiddep. It is said that this condition is liereditary. The best and only way to cure a rig is by operation, in other words to remove the concealed testicle or testes. When carried out by a skilful operator under the conditions laid down by strict antiseptic surgery, this operation is usually successful. Proceeding to corresponding defects in the case of mares, it may be recalled to mind that some mares are almost constantly in season, kicking, squealing, and ejecting urine. In other instances, again, they affect these dirty tricks '' only " when not in use. Vicious habits of this sort frequently show themselves immediately the animal, which gives the trouble, is turned loose in a park. More often than not this is due to some disease of the ovary or ovaries and in cases of this nature spaying (ovariotomy) is the only cure. Performed by a " specialist," this operation is generally successful. Star-Gazing. — Although star-gazing may be a vulgar term, it is nevertheless a very expressive one. By it is indicated the vice of a horse given to carrying his head unnaturally high. Few of the l)etter class 152 BREAKING AND TRAINING horses are afflicted with this habit. Indeed, its presence for the most is confined to the horses of costermongers and dealers of a low order. If you wish to prevent a horse from star-gazing you cannot do better than use a standing martingale. The rings of the martingale should for this purpose be fixed on to the snaffle. Rearing. — " Rearing " is a vice which is confined to no single class of horses. Here 3'Ou find a saddle horse badly given to it, and there you see a harness horse possessing the habit in an even worse degree. Like human troubles, it does not always come singly, and you will often find an animal which is given to rearing is also tainted with a leaning to " plunging." There is only one method of dealing with horses of this class, and that is by giving them constant and daily practice with the long reins in a paddock. A few good tumbles over in the paddock will do them an infinite deal of good and very little harm. The horse, like the wiser of men, soon learns to avoid an act which is commonly succeeded by unpleasant con- sequences. VICE OUTSIDE STABLE 153 Backing. — ^There are some horses which acquire the nasty trick of " going backwards," and the animals that most go in for this vice generally select a moment for doing so when circumstances render the habit particularly dangerous. It is not pleasant, for instance, when sitting in your vehicle in front of a plate glass window to find your horse advancing backwards. Again, in the country where a ditch runs alongside the track, you will find that your " backing " horse is, in some indefineable way, impelled to select this dangerous spot for the exercise of his favourite movement. To cure this vice you must circle and turn the delinquent in the long reins, and if he attempts to back after this fasten up a fore-leg. As a lesson of obedience, again, it will be of infinite service to tie his head and tail together and make him move round in this confined fashion until he is thoroughly satisfied with his performance. Troublesome to Catch.— Many colts— and horses and ponies as well — once they have been turned into a park show the greatest reluctance in allowing themselves to be caught again. And 154 BREAKING AND TRAINING especially if they have a big run they often prove very difficult to get hold of indeed. There is no more annoying situation than when in a hurry to go some- where, and the " Shift cannot be ta'en." It would save a deal of trouble in this direction if colts were accustomed to constant handling in their youth. If they feed outdoors, their feeding box should be placed conveniently near to the gate, for in this way daily inspection is made easy and handling when needful as well. If the park in which they are allowed to run is a large one and ^-ou have your saddle pony or roadster turned out in it. I think it best to tether the animals to a beckie, i.e., an iron stake with a ring in it, driven hard to the ground. Another plan is to '' knee halter " the beast. It is always as well in any case to have a piece of linseed cake, or a little corn, sugar, etc., to offer each time when going to fetch your horse up, as he can generally be tempted by this to come to hand. CHAPTER XII Some Accidents liable to occur during Breaking Bruised Knee — Broken Knee — Stabs, etc. — Sprains- Capped Hock — Bruised Fetlock — Collar, Saddle and Girth Galls. Bruised Knee.— Most horsebreakers are suffi- ciently familiar with the injury known as '' bruised knee." In the case of maladies of this sort, however, familiarity is a very minor matter unless we at once accompany it with some attempt at treating and curing the part injured. When an animal has sustained an accident, the great thing is to lose no time in taking precautions against such evil results as are likely to follow. If you neglect a bruised knee, for instance, 156 BREAKING AND TRAINING matters will as likely as not end in the knee being permanently enlarged — in other words, in a case of so-called " capped knee." In a bruised knee the skin is, of course, not broken. When the skin is broken, indeed, we have quite another sort of injury to deal with known as '■' broken" knee. The injury which we are at present discussing, however, is said to have taken place when the skin and soft structures in front of the knee joint have been bruised, either through the injured animal having come down on the knees, or else by reason of his having struck them against something. '' Bruised knee," be it remembered, is an injury which may have been sustained even though knee-caps have been worn. If the injury is at all recent, the knee or knees will be found swollen and tender to the touch, and there will be a considerable degree of inflammation in the region affected. The best course of treatment for a case of recent occurrence is as follows : — Foment the knee freely with warm water night and morning, and then put on a flannel bandage which has been soaked in a liniment composed of two ounces of tincture of arnica to a pint ACCIDENTS DURING BREAKING 157 of cold water. These flannel swabs should be applied several times a day. If the bruise upon the knee is, on the other hand, not a recent one, there will be no heat about the part affected. The only signs, indeed, by which you will be able to make sure, in this case, of the presence of the malady, is by the appearance of a puffy kind of swell- ing, or else by a process of induration (hardness) taking place. The hair, also, may provide some evidence concern- ing the age of the injury. Broken Knee.— Strictly speaking, the term *'. broken knee" should only be used when the skin of the knee is cut. It is commonly employed, how- ever, even when nothing more serious than a mere grazing of the skin has taken place. Cases of broken knee (or knees) vary in their severity from that in which there is nothing more the matter than a slight abrasion to others m which the tendons and sheaths, the liga- ments and the bones may all be involved in a common injury. The knee of a horse is rarely broken without sustaining a good deal of bruising as well. The 158 BREAKING AND TRAINING latter must be looked to for the explanation if any swelling which may be present in a case of the injury under discussion. The treatment of a broken knee, like that of a bruised one, requires the use of fomentations as soon as possible after the injury has been received. You must freely foment the knee with hot water, to which some anti- septic fluid, such as J eyes', or a little carbolic acid, has been added. The bathing should last for a couple of hours at least. The wound must then be closely examined in order to discover whether any particle of grit or such matter has entered. If an}^ foreign substances are found to be present they ought, of course, to be got out as early as possible. Having thoroughly cleaned the wound, one may now proceed to dress and bandage it. Before doing this you should clip off any hair there may be around the edges of wound. Then take some boracic acid lint, and cut a piece a foot square for each knee, smear the lint with carbolic acid ointment, or Eucalyptus ointment over a surface corresponding with the size of the wound. Now fix it on the injured knee with a flannel bandage. The knee requires dressing in this ACCIDENTS DURING BREAKING 159 way only once a day, and the washing of the wound must not be repeated. It is all-important, however, to wash around it so as to keep the knee clean and sweet. While treating an animal for broken knee it is advisable to keep him tied up short for a few days, though the length of time for which this is necessary will largely depend on the extent of injury. If this is severe, it will probably be necessary to keep the horse standing for several weeks. As soon, however, as the surface of the wound has become level with the surrounding skin the use of ointment should be discontinued. A little vaseline should now be smeared on the lint, and the knee then bandaged up with it again. In cases where proud-flesh shows above the level of the knee you should dust the part affected with a little powdered blue-stone and then bandage the knee up tightly. Stabs, etc. — ^Every one who has ever been out on the hunting field knows how possible it is for a horse to get stabbed when being jumped over a fence. This may not be a thing of everyday occurrence, but it is necessary that the trainer should know what to do in cases of emergency. i6o BREAKING AND TRAINING If the stab is inside the arm — a frequent place — and the horse is some distance from home at the time of the accident, he should be walked home very quietly indeed, because with every movement he takes there is a possibility of the wound's sucking in air in such a way that the skin is blown out with it. If convenient, moreover, it is a good thing to pack the wound with a very clean piece of soft linen, wool, or tow. Once you have got the horse into a place in which he can be properly attended to, the wound should be cleaned with warm water, to which some J eyes' fluid or carbolic acid has been added. This done, you must then proceed to ascertain whether any foreign body has been lodged in the wound, such as a piece of wood, etc. Any foreign substance must, of course, be immediately got out. While you are treating the wound in this way, you will be able in some degree to gauge the extent of the injury. During the following days syringe the wound out once a day, with a solution of carbolic acid (i oz. to 40 oz. water) or a solution of Jeyes' fluid (i oz. to 40 oz. of water, as before). It will be understood, of course, that in the case of all wounds arising from puncture, the greatest care ACCIDENTS DURING BREAKING i6i and vigilance must be exercised. It is not at all uncommon, indeed, for wounds of this nature to be followed by the most serious results merely through the injury having been improperly treated, or not treated at all in the first instance. I have hitherto taken stabs inside the arm as typical of the kind of injuries I am dealing with. Wounds, however, upon other parts of the body and limbs must be treated in much the same fashion, each being dealt with of course, in accordance with its extent, and so the requirements of all wounds of a simple description will be met with by the application of some antiseptic dressing. An ounce of oil of eucalyptus mixed with seven ounces of olive oil, and applied daily, will excellently serve this purpose. Professional assistance is recommended. Sprains. — ^The sprain of a tendon, hgament, and so on, is an accident of everyday occurrence. In an equal measure, however, with less frequent and less simple injuries, it requires prompt treatment if bad results are to be averted and the injured part to be restored to complete health and fitness. i62 BREAKING AND TRAINING In the treatment of a sprain, rest is the first essential., and after this comes the daily application of cold water to the injured part. You should play the hose at intervals upon the sprained tendon, ligament, etc., for ten or fifteen minutes at a time, and after giving it a thorough drenching, rub in opodeldoc. When you have done this the limb should be lightly and evenl}^ bandaged on the part where the sprain exists. Capped-Hock. — ^Any sort of an injury over the joints of the hocks is liable to produce capped-hock. While the colt is in the breaker's hands the malady may sometimes be traced to kicking in harness. As in the case of bruised knee, it is important here to discover whether the injury is of recent origin or otherwise. This, happily, is not a difficult matter. A recent capped hock is distinguished from an old one by the presence, in the former case, of heat and pain and stiffness in the region affected. An old capped-hock, on the other hand, is marked by no particular heat or soreness. It is important for the breaker to know all this, especially in the event of a horse being sent to him by train. There is no need of demonstrating how ACCIDENTS DURING BREAKING 163 easy it would be for the animal, in this case, to knock the joint of his hock against the side of the box in such a way as to meet with a nasty injury. If it is seen that the injury is of recent occurrence, you cannot do better than foment the sore place freely with hot water several times daily. After a thorough application of hot water, obtain a liniment made after the following prescription : tincture of iodine, i oz. ; soap hniment, 3 oz. — and rub the mixture into the region of the injury. You may also effect a considerable amount of good by massaging, or dry rubbing with the fingers, in the part affected. Bruised Fetlock.— Young or " green " horses, as they are sometimes spoken of — ^likewise older ones having faulty action behind, frequently bruise one or both of the fetlocks as a result of striking with the shoe of the opposite foot. In many instances, as the animal gets settled into a regular system of action, this annoyance will cease ; if not, and the part is already bruised and sore, throw off work, put a piece of felt around the fetlock and have a three-quarter or " preventer " shoe, or shoes, put on. i64 BREAKING AND TRAINING If there is much swelling, foment freely with hot water, painting any raw or bleeding surfaces with Friar's balsam as often as necessary, continuing the tomentations until the swelling has subsided. Collar, Saddle, and Girth Galls.— Horses which are at all restive during breaking (others as well) are very liable to come home with a bruise beneath the collar, saddle, etc., and unless proper attention be paid to this at the time, the skin breaks, ending in an angry looking sore. Another thing to consider is the relationship of the breakers' tackle and its adaptability to all classes of horso, rendering it rather liable to gall a horse now and then, more especially if the animal has a tender skin and predisposed to this injury . However this may be, rest is the first essential, along with warm water applications to the bruise, and if the skin is broken, bathe it with a little lead lotion, or permanganate of potash solution (half a drachm to a pint of water). Repeat until cured. See to harness. CHAPTER XIII The Breaker's Stable and its Management In most instances the horse breaker has to put up with but indifferent or bad stable accommodation, because horsebreaking, as a business, cannot be con- sidered one of the most lucrative, consequentl}- the majority of horse breakers are not in affluent circum- stances ; indeed, were it not for " making a bit," by dealing, etc., so as to assist, the horse breaker would have but a poor time. There may be wealthy horse breakers, but the author would have doubt as to whether the sole and only source of his — the horse breaker's — ^wealth had been derived from this occupation pure and simple. i66 BREAKING AND TRAINING Consequenth', it follows that the breaker is not usually in a position to select a site and build a stable in accordance with modern views. Entering into the business with a fair share of capital, and a love for the work, associating it with buying and selling a good class of horse (heavy draught cobs and ponies), we see no reason why a first rate income should not be derived. In this, as in other businesses, success will largely depend upon the breaker's capabilities as a breaker, and upon his good judgment in the selection and purchase of animals, together with business tact for their disposal. There is always a market for good horses at very fair prices, but for indifferent or bad animals, the m^atter is different. Granting that someone purposes entering into such work, an all important matter is the selection of a suitable piece of ground, situated so as to readily be accessible to parties wishing to visit the premises, with a view to the selection of an animal, or to inspect some youngster in charge of the breaker. A few miles outside some large town would afford the best chances of success both as regards selection BREAKER'S STABLE 167 of ground, house, etc., and to obtain work, sale of horses, etc. A few acres of good grass land close by would be a desideratum. A paddock could be laid out for jumping, circling, longeing, etc. If stabling has to be built, the author would advise a range of completely separate loose boxes, constructed of wood, heavily tarred, lined throughout with match- boarding, between the lining and outside wood, a covering of tarred felting, or if this be thought too expensive, sawdust can be substituted, though it is distinctly inferior. The felting makes the wall damp- proof, and keeps out all frost and wind. Have the roofs of tiles, or corrugated iron, the last named being by far the cheapest, and gives very satisfactory^ results. ■ The floors to be composed of either " roughened " cement, vitrified paving, etc., the drainage being surface inside each box, a broad channel conducting the liquid to a trapped drain some distance from the loose boxes. The loose boxes may vary in size according to the class of horse to be kept therein. From three to six i68 BREAKING AND TRAINING yards square, and five yards to roof. Sliding door to each box. The inlet for air to be a window to throw open at the top, and the outlet a shaft in the roof. The reason why we have advocated the construction of loose boxes in preference to a stalled stable — the simpler expedient — is based upon h3^gienic grounds and to prevent the introduction of disease, or rather to prevent the spreading of such in the event of its occurrence in any particular animal. A horse breaker, dealer or a combination of these businesses, necessarily renders the introduction of disease into his premises very likely, no matter how careful he may be when buying or taking in an animal to break, and once disease makes its appear- ance amongst a stud of horses, it means loss of time, increased expense, or it may be, the death of one or more animals. To one just starting this would not be very favour- able. The boxes being isolated — each box should also have its own numbered water pail — ^prevent infection spreading, and the introduction of newcomers can do no harm. The advantages are obvious in many other ways. Directly disease shows itself in any particular animal, BREAKER'S STABLE 169 keep it off training and let some one look after it that does not attend to other healthy horses until satisfied — through professional advice — that such is of a non- communicable nature. Should it prove to be some infectious disease such as influenza, strangles, etc., at the close of the complaint, have the walls scrubbed (also fittings, etc.), with hot water, soft soap and carbolic acid, and lime whitened in addition, if needful. As regards bedding, oat straw is the best, though peat moss litter is most extensively used by dealers, cab proprietors, and at stud farms, etc. Make it a point to buy the best of English or Scotch hay (no foreign if it can be avoided), and the best oats. The last named, taken all round, form the best *' single" food that a horse can have. For old horses they are better bruised ; for young ones, " whole." The author, however, prefers a mixed food (oats, linseed, maize, bruised beans and split peas, bran, with chopped hay), and it will be found the most satis- factory if given in the proportion of i part of oats, i linseed, J bran, J of beans and peas, to three parts of chopped hay. Always feed and water within reasonable time of exercise, say, a couple of hours, and never feed imme- 170 BREAKING AND TRAINING diately after, but give a little water until the animal cools down, and then feed. Feed in accordance with the amount of work, and keep restive or troublesome horses on rather short commons. Breaking and training exercises must be carried out with the greatest of regularity, the loss of a single lesson will sometimes throw a horse off his progress. Another very important matter is that of not neglecting the grooming. Many breakers pay no attention to this, ignoring the fact that during groom- ing many excellent lessons are given to a horse ; indeed, it really is part and parcel of the breaker's training to make the animal understand the method of toilet. The cleaning of the feet, combing and dressing the mane and tail, and obedience to voice are all important matters, and well worthy of attention by the breaker, or the groom of the latter. Trappers, hunters, and other light horses should have flannel bandages put on their limbs at night, and wlien stand- ing in the stable during the day these can be replaced by cotton ones. Pay particular attention to the shoeing, prefer- ably having the animal shod flat all round. BREAKER'S STABLE 171 If a two, three or four ^'Car old should go off his feed always make a point of examining both molar and incisor (grinders and nippers) teeth, as irregularities, entanglements, etc., are not uncommon about these ages, and a frequent cause of going " off feed," to use a horsey phrase. Regarding breaking tackle, this should be cleaned daily and always kept up to concert pitch (see " Groom's Guide," Everett & Co.), and not allowed to become a rusty rotten mass of tackle, as commonly happens. A clever horse breaker must be thorough and systematic in all he does if he wishes to ply his craft with success, and brilliancy, and his motto, In omnia paratus (Ready for all things). CHAPTER XIV Horse Breakers and their Responsibility The responsibilities incurred by a horse breaker are not difficult to define. We shall understand them most easily if we consider them in regard to (a) the depreciation in value, or the death, of a horse whilst under the charge of the breaker for breaking purposes, etc., and (b) the liability of the latter respecting damages to other persons or property occurring through some unforeseen circumstances over which he could, or could not, reasonably be expected to have control. In order that we may understand what these different responsibilities are let us suppose that a person, who for convenience sake we choose to call William Watkins, sends a horse to a breaker named Johnny Walker, and let us make the further assump- BREAKERS' RESPONSIBILITY 173 tion that while under the training of the latter the animal meets with some accident, such as a slipped stifle, sprained fetlock, split pastern, or some similar injur}^ The question under circumstances of this nature being before us for solution is w^hether the aforesaid William Watkins has any legal claim for damages upon Johnny Walker. I think that we shall not be far wrong in answering this question in the negative. I mean that if the breaker is admitted to have used ordinary and recog- nised m.ethods in the breaking of the animal, no responsibility can be attached to him in the case of accidents. Moreover, such accidents are liable to occur to horses quite apart from any connection the}^ may be thought to have with the act of breaking. The author also holds the brakesman to be free of all responsibility in the case of a horse falling and blemishing some part of the limbs or body such as the trainer could not have protected against injury. Let us suppose, on the other hand, that a horsebreaker takes out a young horse without knee caps on, and that this animal receives a fright — through some cause or causes unforeseen — stumbles, and breaks or blemishes one or both knees. 174 BREAKING AND TRAININCx In this case, are we to consider that the proprietor of the horse possesses any claim on the breaker on the ground of depreciation in the value of the animal ? In the writer's opinion he can claim dam.ages in circum- stances of this sort. The breaker has clearly been negligent in taking the horse out without providing proper protection for his knees, it being an acknow- ledged custom and one universally applied to put a pair of knee caps on a horse whilst breaking him. Practically speaking, indeed, the knees are the only part of a horse which may properly be said to be protected during the process of breaking. And this may be taken to prove how necessary it is to have the knee caps put on before the horse quits his stall, and not once removed until he has returned to it and all parts of his gear been taken off. Young horses are frequently given to the practice of brushing, sometimes in so large a degree as to cause considerable pain and swelling in the parts affected. When a horse suffers as a result of this practice the great thing required is rest and the application of some cooling stuff to the injured region. If it has not been already tried the application of a three-quarter shot will be found helpful. In case of an injury of BREAKERS' RESPONSIBILITY 175 this sort the breaker should be careful to let the owner know of it at once, so that the latter may discharge the expenses of any veterinary treatment which may be found needful. (In any event, no blame is attachable to the breaker.) A brushing gaiter must afterwards be worn and it will be well to remember in making this that a piece of soft felt is preferable to leather. When a horse is sent to a professional breaker, it is ^understood that the owner takes all risks incidental to the breaking in of the animal, or which may be incurred whilst the latter is under the breaker's charge. However, if he — the owner — can prove that there has been a want of ordinary care on the part of the trainer, or that some foolhardy act be performed contrary to the usages and customs of an expert brakesman, the case is entirely different. Taking another example, let us suppose that a breaker turns Mr. " So and So's " horse out into a park along with other horses, and that the animal gets kicked in some part — such as (as commonly happens) the inner and lower side of the thigh — and suppose that a fracture is the result of this kick and that, on examination by a vetinerary surgeon, the 1/6 BREAKING AND TRAINING injured animal has to be destroyed. In this case is the breaker responsible ? Most certainly the author would say yes ! No more negligent act could be performed than that involved in turning another person's horse amongst strange horses which are out at grass, and the tempers of which the new animal cannot reasonably be expected to be acquainted with. Should the owner be a consenting party to an act of this kind, then, of course, the whole matter would wear a different complexion. Let us now proceed to our second division of responsibilities and consider the horse breaker's liability in relation to any damage which may occur to other persons, or property belong- ing to such persons through the action of an animal in his keeping. It may be accepted as a fairly settled point of law that in case of any damage arising from an animal known to he vicious, the owner of such an animal must be held responsible. Take, however, the case of a vicious horse which is sent to a breaker to be tamed. We fail to see that in these circumstances any claim could be made upon the owner should some accident occur either to persons or property through the agency of this said animal. BREAKERS' RESPONSIBILITY 177 In the author's humble opinion, indeed, any reason- able claim for damage would have to be satisfied by the breaker, it being the business of the latter to deal with horses irrespective of any vice which they may be subject to, and to guard against its exhibition to the detriment of persons and property. The same line of reasoning, of course, applies not only to breakers but to the owners of vicious animals whilst they have the latter under their own charge. Take for instance the case of a " biter " which happens to be standing in the street, suppose that someone when passing close to the animal contrives to get seized, say, by the arm. In these circumstances the proprietor is naturally responsible, because he must have known of the existence of the vice in his animal, and con- sequently he ought to have had it muzzled, and in this way have prevented the infliction of such injury as the passer by may have sustained. Apart from the imaginary cases we have already considered, there is another which is of interest in this ccnnection. Let us suppose that a breaker is leading a horse in harness, and that some person or persons make a noisy demonstration, of such a sort that the animal takes alarm, and the result of all this M 178 BREAKING AND TRAINING is that serious injury occurs, either to the brakesman, his horse, or other persons — who is to be held respon- sible ? In this case I should certainly say the alarmists. A test case corresponding to the above came before the courts some time since. A dog had sprung out from a house and barked at a passing horse. The animal, on its part, was so frightened that it stumbled and fell, sustaining a pair of broken knees. The owner of the horse at once lodged his claim against the proprietor of the dog. The judge upheld the claim, awarding satisfactory damages to the former to cover any depreciation of value which the horse might have sustained as the result of the dog's bad behaviour. I think that most people will agree as to the equity of the judge's decision. Many knotty points arise for consideration once we begin to invent imaginary cases. There is little good to be gained, however, by going too deeply into the intricacies of the law. As the Irishman said, " The law is a hass," the author prefers to leave it as such, and pass on to some more profitable con- sideration. CHAPTER XV Some Circus Tricks Kissing — Begging — To i\Iake a Horse Follow — To Push a Man out of the Ring — Limping — Kicking and Bucking — Bowing — Circus Jumping. Many remarkable performances by horses are witnessed in the circus ring, more the outcome of perseverance of the trainer, than actual intelligence of the animal. During the training of a horse to accomplish these various feats, it should, as in other forms of breaking, be rewarded by " patting," soothing words, and a carrot, piece of sugar, cake, etc. Kissing. — To make a horse " apparently " kiss his master, one must accustom him to take a small i8o BREAKING AND TRAINING piece of carrot, etc., from the trainer's lips. The animal will not be long before he learns to look to this region for his dainty bite. Begging. — To teach a horse to " beg," he must be made to lift a fore limb off the ground simultaneously when asked to respond to the word. This can be done by gently tapping the leg with a riding whip, and as soon as he hfts it off the ground, reward him. To Make a Horse Follow. — Many horses will do this without any training beyond being self- taught. Show the animal a piece of carrot or sugar, etc., at a few yards' distance, then allow him to smell it, and eat it when he comes up to hand. Gradually increase the distance, always rewarding him for his trouble. To Push a Man Out of the Ring.— This requires a good deal of teaching ; the animal having to put his head against the back, or side, of the trainer, so as to push him along. CIRCUS TRICKS i8i The pupil must be trained to follow first of all, and then close up to one until his head comes in contact with one's back. Limping. — This is very easily taught. Practise the animal, whilst at the walk, by gently striking the leg with a cane over the front of the fetlock until such time as the pupil responds to a " feint " to strike him. Kicking and Bucking. — Kicking and bucking horses and mules are to be seen in most circus rings, and in none more so than in Buffalo Bill's Wild West Show. By tickling the animal under the belly, or initiating him in some such way and carressmg him at the same time, the trainer will usually succeed in making him kick or both kick and buck. Bowing. — Ahorse can be made to " bow " to the audience by pricking him on the brisket with a needle attached to the end of a stick, the repetition of which will soon cause him to bow without the prick from the needle. i82 BREAKING AND TRAINING Circus Jumping.— The jumping of a horse first over one horse and then over several, is a very common circus performance, and in no way differs from ordinary jumping, excepting that the training is hmited to this particular class of work. Begin by training over one foot high and two feet wide artificial jump, gradually increasing until the desired height of the horse is reached, the latter — animate or inanimate — being now substituted. The ring master should always have his whip in hand during jumping, as in most other equine per- formances. CHAPTER XVI Breaking, Driving Bits, Etc. Some Breaking Bits — Some Driving Bits — Some Ports- mouth-Weymouth Riding Bits — Directions for Fit- ting the Breeching — Measuring for Harness — To Measure Horses for Harness — To jMeasure for Cloth- ing — To Measure for a Riding Saddle — List of Break- ing Tackle. Sonne Breaking Bits. — 1. Snaffle with players. 2. Snaffle without players. 3. Snaffle, bar mouth, with players. 4. Snaffle, wood mouth, with plaj^ers. -m MIV i84 BREAKING AND TRAINING 5. Breaking bridoon, wood mouth. 6. Blackwell's bridoon. Some Driving Bits. — 7. Buxton bit. 8. Liverpool bit. 9. Double mouthed Liverpool bit for " hard pullers." 10. Ditto 10 11. Liverpool elbow bit. 12. Ashleigh elbow bit. DRIVING BITS 185 13. Trotting snaffle. 14. Overcheck bearing rein bridoon. 12 13 15. Nelson snaffle. 16. Nelson snaffle, wire rings. 17. Den^^er snaffle. 18. Carriage harness bridoon. 14 15 16 17 18 Some Portsmouth-Weymouth Riding Bits.— 19. Weymouth curb bit. 20. Weymouth curb bit, sliding mouth. 21. Dwyer's bit. i86 BREAKING AND TRAINING 22. Ward hunt bit. 23. Chifney bit. 19 20 21 23 Any of these bits can be had from Messrs. Smith, 151, Strand, W.C. Brown's Patent Double Dee Breeching. — ^This invention combines all the advantages of a breeching with that of a kicking strap. It does not chafe the horse, neither is it noticeable when in use. It prevents kicking, and takes all strain from both fore and hind limbs when descending hills, likewise greatly assists in reining back. For gigs, dog carts, hansoms, broughams, etc., it can be confidently recommended. When ordering this breeching, state kmd of vehicle and width between shafts at splinter bar. In Fig. I the patent breeching only is shown. In Fig. 2 the patent breeching with kicking straj) on. i8S BREAKING AND TRAINING In both examples straps for attaching to the shafts are shown. These are additional, and cost from 2s. 6d. to 4s. per pair, and the breeching from 15s. to 2IS. Directions for Fitting the Breeching. — It need only be strapped across the shafts through the rearmost kicking strap staples, using the kicking strap tugs already in use (or the shaft straps supplied when required), for this purpose. When in position the breeching should be tight, and about two or three inches behind the horse when he is close up to the collar. Should the staples be too far forward they should be placed back (or the breeching seat may be strapped back to the splinter bar by the straps provided for that purpose when required, but the best results are obtained by strapping it straight across between the shaft). The backhand stops on the shafts should be placed back so that the tugs may not press on them. Messrs. Smith & Co., 151, Strand, supply this breeching, and ive are indebted to them for the loan of the blocks. ■ ^ ^'^S 4 K 1 1^ ^ DRIVING BITS 191 Stirling's Patent Breech Harness. — This is certainly a great improvement upon the old form of breeching, in which the strain is chiefly thrown upon the legs and withers, the hind legs being unable to grip the ground properly, especially down a steep decline. From the illustrations it will be seen that the straps form angles at the top of the quarters. From the angles, rear straps spring and pass dow^n to the breech strap behind the quarters, whilst the forward straps are attached to the trace buckle a little in front of the middle of the ribs, thus embracing the body-weight. Pad, crupper and girth are, with the use (in double harness) of this breeching, no longer required. For single harness a pad (no crupper) is necessary. Its use prevents sore back, etc., and should commend itself to the notice of veterinary surgeons in this respect. It economises the wear and tear of the limbs and likewise acts as a kicking strap. The prices range from 25s. to 50s. per horse, full particulars of which can be had from Smith and Com- pany, 151, Strand, London. 192 BREAKING AND TRAINING Measuring for Harness.— It is a most important matter to have the harness to fit properly, nothing being more hable to render a horse vicious than ill-fitting tackle. Many a sweet tempered horse has been blamed for being '' wicked," whereas the sole cause of such vice has arisen through some part of the gear pinching, chafing or otherwise annoying him, consequently the author claims an excuse for intro- ducing a subject only indirectly connected with a work of this description. To Measure Horses for Harness. — Where possible, the measurements required for a harness should always be taken from the set in use, in which case the following lengths should be given : — Bridle : From centre of head to top of bit ; all over forehead piece ; round nose ; from buckling to buckling of throat lash. Trace : From end to end. Crupper : From back of saddle to tail. Saddle : Round horse at proper place. Rein : From buckle in hand to bit. Collar : From top to bottom, inside and across at widest part, as in illustration. DRIVING BITS 193 The height and general stamp of horse, together with the st\-le of vehicle, whether for hilly or flat country, should also be given. The buckles should not be included in the measurements. Fig. 20. In cases where an old harness is not available, the above engraving and the following instructions should be followed, at the same time giving the par- ticulars regarding a horse, vehicle, etc., enumerated above. N 194 BREAKING AND TRAINING. Bridle : from A to corner of mouth ; all round at B ; all round throat at A ; across forehead just above eyes ; from D to D ; all round at F and E from F to F. Collar : From C to C in a straight line — this should be measured with a flat rule. All the measurements should he given EXACT, so that we may make the necessary working allowance. The same measurements will do for double harness, with the exception of the reins, for which the length from hand to bit and the couplings are required. To Measure for Clothing.— All round at F and E ; from D to D ; from C to FF ; all round at CC ; from A to corner of mouth ; all round at B. State if the cloth is to be made to buckle at chest, or with loose breast piece. To Measure for a Riding Saddle.— The girth and height of the horse, whether sharp or rounded withers, and general stamp of the horse is usually sufficient, together with the height and weight of the rider ; but in cases where any peculiarity exists, it Fig. 22. — Side Saddle. 196 BREAKING AND TRAINING is better that an old saddle which fits should be sent, or a man will be sent with measuring appliances any distance on payment of fare only. The weight of a riding saddle should be given without mountings. Mountings weigh : For a 12 lb. saddle, 2| lb. ; for a 10 lb. saddle, 2 lb. ; for a 7 to 8 lb. saddle, i| lb. ; for a race saddle, ij lb. Length should be given from front nail to centre of cantle, and state if a straight- head pommel or cut back is preferred. List of Breaking Tackle. - £ s. d. Smith's improved frameless dumb jockey, with crupper and side reins . . . . 2186 Combined breaking roller and driving pad, with crupper and rein bearers for breaking in colts to harness Rarey leg strap (Hned) Straight jacket x^merican check rein (overhead) Standing martingale . . Tulnilar pure linen webl)ing driving reins, 36 ft. long Leading head collar, ring on nose luind, with rein for colts 3 3 15 6 3 10 6 10 6 DRIVING BITS 197 List of Breaking Tackle {continued) — £ s. d. Breaking cavesson with 20 ft. of lunging rein i 10 o Pair of bit straps for fixing bit to head collar 016 Pair of brass double spring hooks . . ..040 Rubber mouth snaffle bit . . . . ..086 Linen webbing riding reins . . . . ..050 Pair of best white buff leather knee caps . . o 12 6 Set of bandages . . . . . . ..050 Best leather kicking strap . . . . . . o 12 6 Brown's patent double dee breeching (if for silver harness, 6s. more) . . . . o 15 o Stout plain leather driving bridle, hand made and double sewn . . . . . . 2 10 o Driving pad, extra stout brown leather, lined leather, double sewn by hand, drop turrets, and open crupper . . ..440 Single horse driving reins (double lined) . . 150 Pair ditto, ditto ditto . . 2 10 o Double lined collars with open tops, pony, cob, and fuH sizes (set of 3) . . ..440 Harness and tugs with traces (if 3 collars, then 3 sizes), full sizes . . . . ..220 Riding bridle iio Bits o 15 o 198 BREAKING AND TRAINING List of Breaking Tackle {continued) — / s. d. Riding saddle . . . . . . . . from 330 Sundries .. .. .. .. ..100 Messrs. George Smith & Co., Government Con- tractors and Saddlery Manufacturers, 151, Strand, Lojidoji, will supply any of these articles. London: R. A. Everett & Co., Ltd., Esse.x Street, StranU SPORTING BOOKS Publislied by Messrs. EVERETfA Co. — AND ON - SALE AT ALL BOOKSELLERS THROUGHOUT THE BRITISH ^.OLONIES. A most Important and up-to-date Work o/ the Greatest Value to Horseowners. >'S'rltten in Simple Languag'e and the Subject Matter arninf^M in Alphabetical Ord«r. Atout 700 pp., Thick Cr. 8vo, with numerous Full-page and Smaller Illustrations from Original Drawings. Special Colonial Edition. ELEPNTAIJY VETERINARY *IANDAL (FOR HORSEOWNERS), By FRANK TOWNEND BARTON, M.1V.0.V.S., F.Z.S., F.R.M.S., Etc. (formerly Lecturer on Botany and Zoology at the Univeisity Preparatory College, Glasgow ) iuthorof "Our Friend the Horse." "Unsound Horses," "The Age of tht Horse, " The Dog Owners' Companion," " Horse Owners' Companion," Et.gi "THORMANBY'S" NEW WORK. boxersTnd their battles. Anecdotal Sketches and Personal Recollections of Famous Pugilists By ^'THORMANBY." Author ^ * Memoirs of the Prize Eing," " Kvigs of the Eunling Field,' ^' Kings of the Turf &c.y ttc. WITH EIGHT PORTRAITS ON ART PAPER. pox RUSSELL'S NEW SPORTIf^G flOVEU, OUTRIDDEN. By FOX RUSSELL. Suthot af *• The Eaughtuihire Hunt," " Colonel hUUfierhy," "Silk and Scarlet* See, TWENTItTH THOUSAND I 5%H ApPSHOQTINr, "F0R SPORT AND WAR. By W. W. GREENER. Author of" The Gun," " The Breechloader and How to Use ft," dco CONTUNS ; The British a Nation of Sharpsliooters— The Eifle as a Means to Sp-vt aod lerrt-ai ion— Varieties of 'he Rifle— Preliminary Practice— How to Hit the Ma rk— SeJenc© i» iiA«>-ah<m u-od Hov u> Foriv Th^va - IJUnf >>« %mi th«i' CotutruMtoiu, *e