-^i ;f , wmMm. JOHNA.SEAVERNS Webster f^-- -^, m ^- • Cumr -y Medicine ^rlir" !ne at ojb :^ /^2- POLO POLO BY T. B. DRYBROUGH Ex-Captain^ Edinburgh Polo Club ; Member of Hurlinghaui Member of Ranelagh^ 5 1 166 5> » » 174 181 facing page 184 184 194 200 200 206 206 212 212 218 218 230 230 290 290 296 296 302 302 304 304 306 306 310 310 > ? 312 J ) 312 11 314 314 ,, 316 ,, 316 Ilhistrations ix FIG. 69. — Mr. M. Moncrieffe's Wyoming pony Waif ... facing page 318 70. — Mr. M. Moncrieffe's Wyoming pony Vampire ,, ,, 318 71. — Mr. INI. Moncrieffe's Wyoming pony Lightfoot ,, ,, 320 72. — Mr. Auberon Stourton's Argentine pony Menelik ... ... ... .. ... ,, ,, 320 73. — The Author's Montana pony Sweetwater ... ,, ,, 322 74. — The Author's Montana pony Wolfcatcher ... ,, ,, 222 75. — The Author's IMontana pony Sage Hen ... ,, ,, 324 76. — The Author's Idaho pony Pinto Bill ... ... ,, ,, 324 77. — The Author's Montana pony Slap-jack ... ,, ., 326 78. — The Author's ^Montana pony Seabreeze ... ,, ,, 326 79. — ]Mrs. E. vS. Cameron on Montana pony Creole ,, ,, 328 80. — The Author's Montana pony Creole ... ... ,, ,, 328 81. — Mr. H. Tusler on Montana cattle-horse Cotton- tail ,, „ 330 82. — The Author's INIontana pony Cottontail ... ,, ,. 330 83. — Mr. Walter McCreery's Californian pony Topo ,, ., 332 84. — Mr. Walter McCreery's Californian pony Santa Ramona ... ... ... ... ... ,, ,, 332 85. — Mr. Walter McCreery's Californian pony Juanita ,, ,, 334 86. — Mr. Walter McCreery's Californian pony Santana ,, ,, 334 87. — Mr. Lawrence McCreery's Californian pony So Easy • „ ,, 336 88. — Mr. Lawrence McCreery's Californian pony Dolly Varden ,, „ 336 89. — Mr. Lawrence McCreery's Californian pony Hats Off „ „ 338 90. — Mr. Lawrence McCreery's Californian pony Three Cheers ... ... ... ... .. ,, ,, 338 91. — jMr. W. R. Court's Argentine pony Aluminium ,, ,, 340 92. — Mr. W. J. Drybrough's Montana pony Captain Bluff ,, „ 340 93. — Mr. Auberon Stourton's Argentine pony Peter ,, ,, 342 94. — Mr. Auberon Stourton's Argentine pony Chacerero ... ... ... ... ... ,, ,, 342 95. — Mr. Munro Walker's Argentine pony Slavin... ,, ,, 344 96. — Mr. Munro Walker's Argentine pony Sandow ,, ,, 344 97.— Captain Renton's Cape pony Jess ... ... ,, ,, 346 98. — Lord W. A. Cavendish-Bentinck's Australian pony Seagull ,, ,, 346 X Illustrations FIG. _ PAGE 99.— Prince Serge Belosselsky's Arab-Russian pony facing page 348 100. — Mr. W. Buckmaster's Canadian pony Bendigo ,, ,, 348 loi. — Prince Serge Belosselsky's Captain, Anglo- Russian pony ... ... ... ... ... after ,, 348 102. — Prince Serge Belosselsky's Snip, Arab bred in Russia ... .., ... ... ... ... ,, ,, 348 103. — Prince Serge Belosselsky's Cossack pony Gray- ling „ ,, 348 104. — Prince Serge Belosselsky's Arab- Russian pony ,, ,, 348 105. — " A Polo Back," Caricature Drawing ... ,, ,, 348 PREFAC E. I HAVE been so frequently consulted both at home and abroad on subjects connected with polo, that writing this book is merely the carrying out of a long meditated intention. Having tried my best to give a clear and carefully reasoned- out state- ment of my polo experience and views on the game, I trust it will prove acceptable to players in general, as well as to inquiring friends. Ever since I started the Edinburgh Polo Club in 1880, till the present month of June, 1898, when I joined the Executive Committee of the Wimbledon Sports' Club, to assist in giving a new polo ground to London, I have had many opportunities of acquiring practical knowledge of the working of polo clubs, laying out polo grounds, buying and handling polo ponies of various nation- alities, observing play in different parts of the world, and playing with the most celebrated exponents of the game. I have thought it advisable to give detailed xii Preface directions about the laying out of polo grounds, because mere general information on this subject is of little practical value ; and have dwelt at some length on the training of the player and pony, and on actual play in a game. I offer as a special feature of this book, the "Analysis of the Rules of Polo," with the opinions of experts on the interpretation of the Rules and on the deductions to be drawn from traditions and usage. I am glad to have this opportunity of express- ing my grateful thanks to many kind friends for valued information and opinions ; to those who have given me, or permitted me to take, photo- graphs for purposes of illustration ; and to Captain M. H. Hayes for reading my proofs for press. 1 am specially indebted to Captain Egerton-Green for the two articles which appear under his name ; and to other friends, at home and abroad, for interesting particulars about various breeds of foreign ponies. T. B. Drybrough. Raleigh Chtb, London, ^pthjune, 1898. POLO CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTION. Knowledge of Rules — Expenses of Polo — Dangers of Polo — Progress of Polo. British polo is governed by the Hurlingham Club Rules, or, to speak more accurately, by the Hurling- ham Club Rules and traditions, according, I may add, as they are interpreted and applied by different umpires and players. It is admitted by most polo players that these rules and traditions are not sufficiently known and understood. Mr. E. D. Miller says in Mode^nt Polo, " Although it is manifest that we should have at our finders' ends the rules under which we play, many even good players who have played the game for years, are marvellously ignorant on the subject of rules, on account of being too lazy or too indifferent to learn them from the book, which is the only accurate way by which to acquire that knowledge." I INTRODUCTION Unfortunately, even players who have had long practical experience and who have carefully thought the subject out, are divided in opinion on certain points. Occasionally, when some well known player has followed the statement of an opinion with the remark, " Everybody knows that," I have been amused to find that when I pointed out the fact that some equally good player held a contrary view, my listener would reply "Oh! he knows nothing about the rules." It is certainly in the interests of polo that every player should clearly understand what he is allowed to do, and what he is debarred from doing. Not being an advocate for excessive leQ^islation, I see much truth in the following remarks which Mr. John Watson has written to me : "I think it is a great mistake to try and legislate too closely in polo. It is or should be too fast a game to go into very minute details. I think, with you, that the less jostling allowed the better, but too many rules would spoil the game by giving the umpires too much to do. I am all against continual appeals for fouls, which would be frequent in proportion to the number of rules, and would make it almost impossible for an umpire to perform his duties." Admitting that too much legislation would be bad and that it is impossible to go into every minute detail, I am still of opinion that the existing rules are not as clear as they might be, and that with the best of intentions, players and umpires do not give KNOWLEDGE OF RULES 3 them a uniform interpretation. Mr. T. F. Dale ('' Stoneclink ") in The Game of Polo says, "No- thing is more usual than to find a man very ignorant of the rules of a game at which he constantly plays," and that umpires should '' try to find out what are the opinions on doubtful points of the best players." Good umpires are rare in the extreme ; and the great difficulty of obtaining their services will continue to exist until players have a better chance of knowing how to form their judgments. In the Analysis (chap, xi.), after giving my own opinions I have added gleanings gained from various poloists. In compiling these notes from experts I have consulted several of the best living players and umpires. Some well-known names are absent from my list, and several players I had intended consult- ing are abroad, for example. Captain MacLaren and Mr. Gerald Hardy. Others with whom I have threshed out the subject have agreed generally, without furnishing me with definite notes for publi- cation. I trust that those players whom I have not consulted will not consider that I passed them over on account of undervaluing their opinions ; but having got sufficient authority for my purpose I did not require to go further afield. I think that everybody who knows the English polo world will be satisfied with the authorities I quote. While attempting to bring my experts in line on disputed points, I have been reminded of the saying, 4 INTRODUCTION "A man convinced aorainst his will is of the same opinion still," so it is probable that under certain circumstances some of my experts may give verdicts apparently not in harmony with the con- clusions arrived at in my notes. In talking rules over, it is impossible to have present in one's mind every case which may arise. Besides, it is hardly likely that I have infallibly and correctly grasped the exact ideas of my friends, or that they have always foreseen the effects of a universal application of an opinion given in reply to my questions. This being so, I wish to say distinctly that I personally accept the entire blame of all discrepancies and errors which may be discovered. While it is true that we cannot play polo properly without beinor conversant with the rules of the game, it is equally true that we can hardly become thoroughly conversant with these rules except by acquiring experience under them in actual play. No doubt we may learn much by watching good play, but we are likely to learn more by frequently taking part in it. As experience must be gradually acquired, I do not at this early stage propose to drag beginners through a lengthy analysis of the Hurlingham Rules, and accordingly give that part of my subject a later position in this book (see page 236 et seq). Players who have had some experience will do well to study the analysis, but beginners may content themselves with simply reading over the rules. EXPENSES OF POLO 5 EXPENSES OF POLO. Contrary to what many suppose, polo Is not necessarily a game limited to millionaires, and is in fact played both by civilians of ordinary means, and by those happy individuals who love to speak of themselves as "poor soldiers." Like hunting, it may be done In either an extravagant or a comparatively inexpensive manner. One man contents himself with two ponies ; another must have half-a-dozen. Here we find a stable full of high-priced ponies, bought at the dearest times and Irrespective of what they may afterwards fetch when sold. There, we see ponies which were purchased at a modest fifty pounds apiece, and which are as good or better than the other man's. Besides, they will always be fully worth the price paid for them. Some men always sell well ; others have almost to give away dearly bought animals, selling when and where there is no demand, and failing to attract buyers because their stables have no reputation. X plays only during the three months of the London season ; he trucks his ponies from his country place ; hires expensive stabling ; has servants at high wages, and gets no work from his ponies during nine months In the year. Z plays five months with a Provincial Club. While his hunters are laid aside, he utilises the same stabling and service, buys his fodder at country prices, and possibly gets some harness work out of his ponies. 6 INTRODUCTION Aeain, the man who Hves a mile or two from the ground and hacks a pony or uses the regimental brake, spends less than one who comes up from the country two or three times a week, perhaps stays over night, brings his valet with him, and maybe has a hansom dancing attendance on him all day. Young Slasher rushes from country grounds to town grounds, subscribes to several clubs, drags a string of ponies round the Provincial Tournaments, and is a small gold mine to saddlers, bootmakers, breeches makers, hosiers, and other tradesmen. He always "does himself well," then swears polo is "a beastly expensive game," and adds that, "he can't afford it." Lieutenant Atkins, on the other hand, buys " worth the money," and not infre- quently sells at tall prices. He devotes himself almost exclusively to the game, takes care his incidental expenses are not heavy, and tells you confidentially after mess that he finds polo much cheaper than continually bolting off to race meet- ings, or running up to town "to get his hair cut." A great deal of fun, among really good fellows, may be had on a modest outlay. Two ponies with a strapper may be kept in London during the season for about £^ a week, so as to obtain three afternoons' sport. Compare this with the hire of a hunter one day a week in the Shires. As incidental expenses need not be heavy, polo will probably be cheaper than shooting, fishing, or even three afternoons' golf where there are heavy T. B. D.] Fig. 1.— The AUTHORS First Pony, Shamrock, on which he and his brother learned to play polo. (See page 7.) E. Gordon, Putney, S.W.] [To face page Fig. 2.— The AUTHOR'S Favourite Montana Pony, Terry. (See page 327.) EXPENSES OF POLO railway fares to pay. Under the various headings of ''Choosing a Pony" (page 82), "Stable Matters " (page 105), '' Dress " (page ;^;^), &c., readers will find hints which may be useful to men with whom expense is an object. One is certainly safer in paying a fixed subscription to a polo club without further liability, than standing in with a few wealthy men on the understanding that all expenses will be divided at the end of the year. To prove that polo may be enjoyed without heavy outlay it may not be uninteresting to refer to my own experiences. In the year 1880, I bought my first polo pony, Shamrock [fig. i), from that veteran player Mr. Horace Rochfort, County Carlow, Ireland, and gave ^25 for the pony unseen. He carried me five years, or rather my brother and myself; for as my brother had no ponies in these his schoolboy days, I lent him mine for about two years. At the beginning of each season I bought a second pony, which I sold the following winter. My first three were Amber (^22 los.), Old Brandy (10 gs.) and Harlequin (18 gs.), none of which had played polo, but all did so the first time of asking. They made excellent tandem leaders, though curiously enough, all three came to me with bad harness characters. Amber had been returned to his owner the day before I bought him, because a new purchaser could not drive him out of his stable yard. I took him to a coachbuilder, put 8 INTRODUCTION him in my new cart and drove him to Gullane, eighteen miles. Old Brandy, a very aged mare, had been given to her groom as a present. She had more than once reared over in harness, but I found her perfect on a half-moon snaffle. I bought her for a friend, who fortunately changed his mind. £2^ was offered for her the following day, and not long afterwards I refused ^50 for her. Eventually a friend, who wished to buy her for breeding purposes, gave me what I had paid for her, and he bred three good foals from her. Harlequin had fooled in harness, and his owner, thinking that the pony's play meant staggers, sent him to auction. I did not lose money on any of these ponies, all of which carried me well at polo, three out of the four being good enough for present games. When not playing they did my station and shooting work, generally as tandem, and in winter I drove them to covert. They also ran in a sleigh during snow, either as a pair, or troika (three abreast), two of these ponies running as outriggers, with a hunter in the shafts. On rare occasions a pair ran lead in a scratch four-in- hand. Shamrock won me two cups racing. He finally strained his hock in harness. I was offered ^50 for him after bone spavin had lamed him, but disliking to see him start limping, I shot him. His photograph (fig. i) was taken in the rough the day before I sent him to the kennels. DANGERS OF POLO 9 Later on, I used to buy in Ireland, where my average price was ;^50. The highest price I have ever given for a pony was £^o, which I paid for Lady Doncaster out of the 13th Hussars stable. I bought this mare simply not to see her leave Edinburgh, but getting fond of her I kept her. My three Cairo ponies, which I have now played for six years, cost me ^30 for one and £']o for the other two. I have had offers by letter and wire of ^150 each for the lot, or to name my price, although two of them were worn ponies. For Khalifa I have refused to name a price over ^200. They are "working pensioners." My Montana ponies cost me ^15 each on rail in Montana, and I have refused ^150 each for two, and fair prices for others. The celebrated Charlton, for which ^500 has been refused, originally cost my brother £\o. The Champion Fitz cost ^35, and I have known many ponies which became afterwards celebrated, cost no more. Good useful ponies are now both more plentiful and cheaper than they used to be. DANGERS OF POLO. At the risk of making a bull, I venture to say that polo is more dangerous to a player who is not playing than to one who is in a game. The seeds of rheumatism, lumbago, and other ills are often sown when sitting out during practice in- lO INTRODUCTION tervals after severe exertion, especially when cold spring or autumn winds are blowing, and when one is too hot and too careless to put on proper wraps. A chill may also be caught when driving home without changing after play, and when too lio-htly clad. At such a time one cannot wear too warm overcoats, and should not forget to utilise neck folds, knee rugs, and other forms of protection. In any case violent exertion, when out of condition, is bad. It is probable that men give up polo more frequently because they feel that their health cannot stand the strain, than from all other causes put together. On-lookers who are seated on lawn chairs nearly always over-estimate the danger to the players ; for when thus seated low they cannot accurately estimate the respective distances be- tween the riders, who then appear to them to be crossino- and riskino- collisions in the most reck- less manner. When playing there is rarely any such feeling, the difficulty being then to get sufficiently close to one's adversary. Ponies con- tribute to safe play by taking very good care of themselves. I have hardly ever felt the slightest apprehension on a polo ground when mounted, but on foot it is a very different affair. I do not know a more nervous sensation than that obtained when, in order to start a game, one throws in a ball, has it hit towards one, and then eight men gallop straight after it, some of them looking DANGERS OF POLO I I over their shoulders in other directions. Even when a rider is looking at one it is impossible to say whether he intends to pull to one side, or whether he counts on the man on foot getting out of the way. In such a dilemma one is as likely as not, at the last moment, to step to the side the pony is turned to. Knowing all this, chuckers-in who perform on foot are apt to throw from too long a distance, and to make atrociously bad shies. When I have got to throw in I like to do it from horse-back. Accidents are very rare among good players. When they do occur they are nearly always caused by reckless young beginners. Once in my life very long ago 1 rode a man down, and it served him right ; for he not only sold me a pulling pony no man could hold, but had the temerity to cross in front of me on another of the same kind. " Hey ! look out," I shouted. "Can't stop," was the reply, and next moment I was into his pony at right angles just behind the girths, both ponies being at full gallop. The shock made me stop dead, and my friend's pony rolled over twice, the rider makinof a dive over its shoulder. He was a good fellow and a hardy Scot, so w^as up in a moment with a grin and a "my fault," which, under the circum- stances, sounded delightfully refreshing. Last spring I had for the first time the sensation of being ridden into, with the result that I and my 12 INTRODUCTION pony came down and the other pair rolled over us. No harm would have been done had my head not tapped the turf rather hard on an old hunting wound, and I was partially stunned for a few minutes. Although I had to take the blame for this collision because I was not in possession of the ball, the other man was not blameless, for he changed his direction unexpectedly while look- ing at a ball behind his girths, and hit it unin- tentionally under his pony, and then followed without first looking if the way was clear. Ponies are rarely the worse from collisions. Once one of mine became pony-shy from having been very roughly galloped into. Another, during a game, showed lameness, which proved to be a fracture of the pelvis. I could not tell at what moment he got it, but I think it must have been from a collision ; for he had been more than once very roughly galloped Into during the game. I think the bumping style of riding-out at present Indulged in is much too rough, and should be strongly discouraged by umpires. Although I have no wish to see polo degenerate into an old- woman's-game, I greatly prefer science to brute force. Dangerous crossing should be severely punished, and as accidents are most likely to happen In practice games, an umpire should always be in charge. One of the most frequent causes of Injury to ponies and of falls to riders, Is careless pulling DANGERS OF POLO 1 3 across the forelegs of another man's pony, some- times when zigzagging in front of an adversary, but oftener by turning in front of him when he pulls back to escape being ridden-out. In such a case the rider-out, having accomplished his purpose, should always pull azvay from his adversary. On one occasion, such an aggressor coolly remarked to me, '' All right, I'll take the risk," as if I had been thinking only of the chance of cutting his pony's hind legs. The real danger is to the crossed man, who, if his pony falls, may easily get badly injured. No rider should follow dangerously close behind another player, especially if he is riding to back - hand a ball ; for he will then be likely to slow down and will probably wheel as he hits. On page 257 I have given my opinion of dangerous riding on the supposi- tion that the player who last hit is entitled to free course anywhere. A word as to intentional crosses. I have heard men deliberately say they would always cross an adversary in case of ex- tremity to save a goal, and that it was the right thing to do ; a course of conduct against which I would vehemently protest. Although the penalty of a foul for a cross might be more favourable to the defendino; side than the almost certain loss of the o^oal, I consider that makinor such an inten- tional foul would be equivalent to taking a mean advantage of the attacking side. Fair play is 14 INTRODUCTION always de rigueur, and at no time Is a man's honour more at stake than when he has the option of doing or avoiding something that can injuriously affect an adversary. Serious collisions are very rare, the fact being that more ponies fall from slipping in mud, in which case they generally collapse quietly after a preliminary sit-down on their quarters without much harm being done, as wet turf is soft. A fall from a pony crossing its forelegs may be much more serious, especially on hard ground. Eastern ponies are popularly sup- posed to be most guilty of this weakness ; but my opinion is that the rider is more often to blame. Pulling a pony off his balance backwards when turning, is another trick of jerky excitable riders. In one match the No. i opposed to the team in which I was playing, twice threw his pony by making it cross its legs, and on another occasion I saw a player come to grief twice by jerking his pony backwards when turning. Of course in these cases the men nearly always blame the ponies. Injuries from balls are wonderfully rare. When we consider how entirely unsuited to its purpose the hard wooden ball is, and the fact that it is often hit close to players with a force sufficient to drive it about a hundred yards, it is astonishing how very rarely either pony or player suffers. A Back galloping ahead of advancing players and often unable to see strokes made behind him would seem DANGERS OF POLO 1 5 to run special risks ; yet in all my experience I can only remember getting one really nasty blow, on the back of the arm close above the elbow, that pained me for a season, though it did not quite stop play. Men seem more sensitive to these blows than ponies, which appear hardly to notice them and rarely show bad after-effects. Ponies funk sticks, but rarely balls, and it is just possible that they put down to the stick all the contusions they receive. I only once hurt a friend, whom I hit on the leg by a hard back-hander, the shell of the shin-bone being cracked below his boot. Accidents rarely come singly. I remember a hard-hitter punishing so many men in one game that at each click of his stick against the ball every head was bobbed down for safety. The most frequent accidents at polo come I think from reckless (unpardonably reckless) use of sticks. Safety polo caps lessen chances of injury, but I have never worn one and have never been hit where one would have saved me. Some men play bare-headed. I have three times been hit on the face, always by young soldiers ; the worst being a blow near the corner of the eye, which stroke badly fractured the orbital bone. A fortnight later another young soldier, while attempting to hasten his pony by a crack with the head of his polo stick (a proceeding which has since been prohibited by rule) cut open the brow of my recently injured eye. Again, last spring, a third 1 6 INTRODUCTION young soldier, carrying his stick in a stupid way over his pony's neck, while jerking at his reins to keep his pony from crossing the boards, managed to hit me on the mouth, cutting my lip and loosen- ing two teeth. None of these accidents (spread over nearly twenty years) ought ever to have happened, and were received only by playing with rash inexperienced beginners. After all, accidents of any kind are much more rare than at hunting, football, or even bicycling. Young ladies trotting along paved streets in riding-classes run more risks of accidents than polo players in the toughest matches. I have never been really hurt by a fall at polo, but have had three nasty croppers on my way to the ground ; twice from too fresh horses I was riding, swerving and coming down on paved streets, and once from being thrown out of a dog- cart in London traffic, through the pony falling on slippery asphalt. During the many years I used to hack to the ground, I always '' funked " the street riding, but never cared two straws for the risks of the o^ame. PROGRESS OF POLO. The history of polo, from its origin in Persia about the year b.c. 600, to its mtroduction into England in 1870, as well as its earlier beginnings in this country, has already been fully treated in recent works. My active acquaintance with polo w .= < rt uj PROGRESS OF POLO 1 7 dates from 1878, in which year I played my first game with the InniskilHng Dragoons on their Duddingstone Cottage Ground, near Piershill Barracks, Edinburgh. I remember that I rode a pair of borrowed ponies, which took me and their saddles down to the field in a tandem cart. In those days we played five a side, the fifth man keeping near his goal and rarely taking part in the game. The ponies were all under 14 hands, were generally ridden on snaffles, and as regards quality were a rather mixed lot. In the year 1880 I became an owner of ponies and started the Edinburgh Polo Club in summer quarters at Gullane training ground and race- course, where we played four a side when we had enough players. As none of us knew much about the game, we did a good deal of free-lance work with great enjoyment to ourselves. In later years tactics became gradually better defined, so that at least ten years ago we were playing prac- tically the same game we are playing to-day. In those days boards were rarely seen, though I chanced to play on a ground where they existed on one side. At Hurlingham they used to be removed on Inter- Regimental Match days. Safety goal posts were unknown, and a ground 250 yards long was considered fairly large. Hurlingham was then 260 yards. Instead of the ball beino- thrown in at the middle, it was laid at the centre of the orouncl. l8 INTRODUCTION and on trumpet signal the sides charged from their respective goals. This being found dan- gerous and tiring to ponies, crossing sticks over the ball was introduced, but not proving satisfac- tory soon gave way to the present system. Sticks and balls remain the same as formerly, and dress has only slightly altered : brown boots superseding black or Newmarket ones, and peaked caps taking the place of forage caps. The Rugby waistcoat has driven out the shoulder sash or belt. The increased length of grounds, the introduction of side-boards, and the raised height of ponies have all tended to make the game faster. Crooking used to be allowed on either side of the pony, no matter where the ball was, and hustling with the head and with raised arm was permitted. The 25-yard penalty for hitting behind is the latest improvement. There has been a rapid increase in the num- ber of players and grounds. Ten years ago we had as good individual players as there are to- day ; in fact, nearly all our best men were playing at that time. Mr. Walter Buckmaster, who has played only seven years, is the most noteworthy exception. Considered by many good judges to have equal claim with Mr. "Jack" Drybrough to the title of "the finest living player," he may be placed against the loss by retirement of Mr. "Johnnie" Peat, who was the most brilliant For- ward we had. Among the most prominent players PROGRESS OF POLO 1 9 we have lost, I may mention Mr. Arthur Peat, a really good Back, and more recently, Captain Daly, Lord Southampton, Mr. Gerald Hardy (fig. 41), and some of the old 9th Lancers Team. Messrs. Jones and Freake, the reserve men for the Rugby and Freebooter teams, rank among our most promising players, and in soldiers' teams we have several good players coming to the front. Considering the great number of players, it is surprising how very few really first class men there are ; in fact, one can count them all on one's fingers. The reason for this is that fairly good performers are constantly engaged in match play in ever varying teams, and beginners have to take their chances in members' scratch games ; thus, neither get the benefit of team combination schooling. Under these conditions young soldiers who always play in one team have much the best chance of becoming well-drilled, useful players. Perhaps the most noticeable features of the present game are the hard hitting and rough riding-out. Players hit now where they used to dribble, and everything is in favour of strong and fairly heavy men who can hold and control big ponies. Other things being equal, the heavy man hits hardest, rides out strongest, stops quickest, and in this way gains more than light weights do by quicker turning and starting. I believe the winners of last year's Inter- Regimental Cup (The Inniskillings) formed the heaviest soldier team 20 INTRODUCTION which has ever competed. At present it seems almost a disadvantage to ride under 12 st. I think that improvements in the game are Hkely to be in the direction of less rough play, and as rules are made clearer and are better understood, there will be less dangerous riding. There is room in London for a third ground where beginners might practise quietly, and where play could be got by ist April at latest, prepara- tory to match play in May. Next year a new ground will be opened at Wimbledon Park. Since I wrote the above, the Ranelagh authorities have announced by circular that they have a spare field which they propose making into a practice ground. The too frequent reserving of our best London grounds for match play, together with cautious nursing after rain, is often the cause of members either getting no practice games or having to put up with play on second rate ground. One of my correspondents says we may soon expect to see polo spoiled by the advent of professional players, which is a statement I doubt. It will be long before there is enough public money to pay a professional team, and if some pony- dealing company organises a team of experts, their exhibition of studied strokes should prove most interesting^ and mioht teach us somethino-. The use of big ponies is in favour of popularis- ing polo ; for animals up to the present standard are more useful for general harness and saddle PROGRESS OF FOLO . 21 work, and are more liked by ladies as saddle cobs than smaller ponies. The prices of the pick of high class ponies will rise year by year, but the ordinary club pony may easily get cheaper, espe- cially if some players unite to form a company for importing and supplying them to its members. As polo spreads on the Continent and elsewhere and more visiting teams come to England, our tournaments will become more interesting and no doubt the public will have better opportunities of witnessing them. At present we have polo in France, at Paris and Deauville in summer, at Pau in winter (thanks to Mr. Thorn), when there are enough players, and there is probability of a winter club being started in the Riviera. In Spain at Madrid, in summer ; at Gibraltar, summer and winter ; and in Russia at St. Petersburg. There is polo at Malta, and just out of Europe, at Cairo. I think they played for a short time in Italy at Florence. They might easily play at Rome. Polo has been started in Germany at Hamburg, the pioneer town of sport in the empire. The " Hamburger Polo Club" (Herr H. Hasperg, junior, Hon. Secretary), have just acquired a ground at Bahrenfeld near Hamburg, and chiefly use Argentine ponies. Their principal match this summer (1898) was to be arranged for June 25th, the day before the Nord Deutsche Derby, but I have not seen any report of the event. All poloists will wish the young 2 2 INTRODUCTION German Club good luck. I am told polo has just been started at Vienna. In Eno-land the need of a Polo Association will probably arise. We have now about fifty clubs in the British Isles, not including Regimental Clubs.* All polo players are indebted to the Hurlingham Committee, past and present, for their services in the interests of polo, and no doubt the members of that Committee will with reason be gratified when their efforts have placed the game on such a footing that its growth will make necessary a National Association of manage- ment. '•"At a meeting of delegates from County Polo Clubs, held at the Nimrod Club, on May 26, 1898, rcsohitions ivere passed forming a County Polo Club Association to further the interests of County Polo. 23 CHAPTER II. POLO ACCESSORIES. Sticks {Fti;;. 4; — Balls— Dress. To play polo to the best advantage, it is necessary to have a good stick, which will be the one most suitable to the individual player. Hence we find that there is a great and surprising variety among the sticks used by crack players. The powerful man you expected to see wielding something like a sledge hammer, probably uses a short flexible medium-weight stick ; while the lighter and smaller player occasionally goes in for a heavy head on a shaft like a poker. " How on earth can X play with a wretched thing like that } " is a common remark of a player on feeling the balance of another man's stick. I have known a player arrive and throw a great bundle of sticks of all varieties on the ground as if he were about to play " spelicans." Then selecting the one that suited his present humour, he would say " Now I call this a real eood stick." Five minutes later he would gallop furiously back shouting to his soldier servant : " What do you mean, letting me 24 POLO ACCESSORIES go out with a wretched whippy (or pokery, as the case may be) thing- Hke that ? " and off he would ride a^ain to make sensational strokes with something of a completely opposite type. By a law of mechanics, the hardest blows can be given by a heavy head on a slim cane (think of a lead bullet in a sling !) ; but supple shafts bend in all directions, twist in unexpected ways and are consequently very difficult to use with accuracy. With such a shaft, which Is not of much use for pushing underhand taps, the swing must be perfectly true. Our Indian visitors, who played with extremely long whippy canes, seem to have mastered the secret, but no Englishman can effectively use such tools. I judge the balance of a polo shaft as I would do that of a golf club, and like it to be strong and nearly rigid close to the hand grip, and to taper gradually, so as to be rather flexible near the head. If the spring comes near the hand, the stick will be awkward to play with. The more rigid the shaft, the greater the strain on the player's wrist at the moment of contact with the ball, and the more easily can the stick be forced out of the fingers. Men who play entirely with the swing of the stick, can sometimes use heavier and stiffer tools than those who put wrist strength into their strokes. As a general rule the heavier the man, the stronger will be the stick, but not always the longer the shaft ; for tall men have long E. Gordon, Putney, S.W.] \_To face page 24. Fig. 4.— BITS (page 95); GIRTHS (page 94); and POLO STICKS (page 23). [No. q, Argentine Bit ; No. 14, Umpire's Whistle on indiarubber hand-band.] Sticks.— No. 15.— Improved Le Gallais Head, corners rounded, wick handle, leather thong. No. 16.— Cigar Head. No. 17.— Salter's Jubilee Head. No. 18.— Salter's 4a (broad). No. 19.— Salter's No. 4 (narrow). No. 20.— Rugby Stick, spine handle, rubber grip, tape wrist-loop. No. 21.— Stick by Buchanan, used by the Author throughout the County Cup Final, 1894 (leather handle). No. 22.— Le Gallais Head (upright oval section), tape finger-loop on side of handle, rubber grip. STICKS 25 reaches. The shorter the shaft the quicker can the stick be wielded, and the heavier can be the head. Some men use different lengths of sticks for ponies of different heights, but it is better to keep to sticks of uniform length, which can be shortened in the hand if necessary. The canes used are of two kinds, namely, red Malaccas and white ground rattans. The former are much easier to get well balanced and are cheaper (they cost 4s. 6d. when made up), but they do not stand wear as well as the latter. They are pithy, break easily when crooked, and soon go at the neck from repeated torsion, and then split into separate fibres. They answer well enough for players who do not hit very hard. Really first class white canes are unfortunately very difficult to get. In fact, several makers have been candid enough to tell me that they could not supply me with good ones. Messrs. Anderson, of Edinburgh, who took immense pains with my sticks, told me that the waste was ruinous, as It w^as often difficult to select even a few o-ood canes out of bundles containing hundreds. Messrs. Buchanan, of London, who have supplied me with many ex- cellent sticks (price 5s. 6d. each), have also great difficulty in finding suitable shafts ; and Salter, of Aldershot (whom 1 have lately consulted), and from whom I have bought sticks for many years, tells me that while exercising every possible care in purchase, only a few canes out of each bundle 26 POLO ACCESSORIES of the best selected ones are really first class. His best cost 7s. 6d. each, and the ordinary ones 5s. After all, the o-reat test is to balance a stick <_> in the hand (standing at a certain height off the ground to feel the swing) and then bending it to see if the shaft has quick spring recovery. Many white canes, especially short-jointed ones (see No. 21 in fig. 4), are very flabby, and if bent will remain so, as they have no elasticity. Even good canes may lose their elasticity if kept in a damp place. No doubt many canes which in time become crooked, merely regain their original form, from which they had been artificially straiorhtened out, and to which thev^ have a tendency to return. The growth, harvesting and curing of canes is a subject about which little seems to be known in this country. Mr. Salter keeps his canes when necessary for a year or two to season, and oils and prepares them carefully. Sticks should always be hung up. Leaning them against walls, or throwing them down any way in bunches is certainly bad for them. Sticks go chiefly at the neck close to the head ; red canes split ; white ones usually break short over. When the break takes place higher up the shaft, it is generally due to contact with another stick which crooked the injured one in the act of hard hitting. To prevent this, four or five small rubber rings may be put round the neck. Mr. STICKS 27 Salter has a new plan of Introducing whalebone wedge style up the neck through the head, In a cross direction, to receive blows of other stick heads, or of balls hit on the shaft. Another plan is to bind two flat pieces of steel back and front of neck. Either style should strengthen and prevent torsion injury when balls are heeled or toed. All ends of canes are string bound where they pass through the head, and for 7 or 8 Inches up the neck. Mr. Salter further uses glued canvas. I may also mention that double wedges in ends prevent heads flying off". In hot, dry countries the heads and necks of polo sticks have to be dipped in water, so as to prevent them from shrinking ; but In England our damp air Is rather apt to slacken the glue. I notice that canes which are compara- tively thick at the end where they enter the head, stand most wear. Personally I prefer long-jointed canes which show close grain at the cut-across end, and have a clear, hard-looking surface. I do not object to wrinkles, which rather suggest well dried canes. Flabby canes may be laid by to season. Heads are distinguished as cigar- shaped and square. True cylinders are seldom used. The cigar-shape (No. r6 In fig. 4) does for hard level grounds, and when light, for players who have not strong wrists. Square heads, not too long, but well curved are best for picking balls out of hoof-hollows. When 2 8 POLO ACCESSORIES broad (see No. i8) they have more wood round the shaft hole, and are therefore less likely to break. The cigar shape is going out of fashion though still used by some fine players, Mr. John Watson and Captain MacLaren, for instance. Heads vary in length and weight, and also in small peculiarities such as bevelled edges, rounded corners, and slight differences in depth and breadth. Fig. 4 shows a few different styles. Ordinary players cannot go wrong with heads about 7^ inches long, 2 inches broad by i:^ deep, and 6 to 6^ ozs. in weight. Some strong men use 7 oz. heads. On page 31 I give measurements of sticks used by some well-known players. A good average length is 52 inches. The centre of the shaft hole in a 7J inch head may be 3^ inches from heel edge on top, and 3f inches below, which will allow the head to lie at a fairly good angle. Different men prefer different angles. It is convenient to have one's initials branded or stamped on the head, and colour rings may be painted on the shaft by dissolving pounded sealing- wax in spirits of wine. If a player finds that he raises balls too much, he should try a deeper head, which will be less likely to get under the centre of the ball. If he does not raise the balls enough, he should try a narrow head and a rounded (or very slightly sloped) face. I have often had heads put on by country joiners, and have found that plane- tree (sycamore) or beech answered well for square STICKS 29 heads, and ash or hickory for cigar-shaped. An oval is the best shape for the handles of polo sticks, and is usually made by splitting- the cane and inserting a wedge. The spine-back (" Rugby " handle) is made by squaring the back and adding a piece of wood. Salter renders his handles firm with canvas oflued on. The oval is larorest at the extreme end of the stick — where it is eood to have the last inch much bio-o-er than the rest — and lessens to nothing, ?>., merges into the round form 9 inches from the end. Different men like different sizes : i inch by i .| at end suits me ; | inch by i;^ at I inch from end. With the spine-back (No. 20 in fig. 4) the player can know by the feel when the stick is held with the head toe to front. White sheepskin, rough or " flesh-side " out, is much used for coverino- handles ; a strip being rolled on from the end downward so that the overlapping edges do not curl up and blister the fingers. A few men prefer the strip applied the reverse way, because it gives better hold. Salter's rubber-grip handles (strips of rubber instead of skin) are used by many first class players. Some apply strips of rubber-ribbon or adhesive tape which adheres w^ithout tying. Last season Messrs. Buchanan supplied me with a few cotton covered handles, which had ''wicks" rolled on flush, and which I like very much as they do not become sloppy like leather, when wet. They are 30 POLO ACCESSORIES better than Indian cotton cloth handles. I nearly always wear a very thin thread glove rubbed with powdered resin. Some years ago a handle was tried with channels for the fingers made by tacking on small strips of hard leather under the covering. Although they gave a strong grip, they blistered the fingers unless when accurately spaced, and were not very satisfactory for back-hand hitting. A small wooden projection or hook is sometimes used on the end of the back of the handle to prevent the stick slipping through the hand. The idea is good, but I did not like this form of it, for it gave me an enlargement of the end joint of the little finoer when I tried it. A small bullet of rubber screwed on would probably answer better. Players generally use wrist straps of sheepskin, fixed to the extreme end of the handle (9 inch thong, double) or hand-straps of tape on the right of the handle, fastened to the inner extremity of the covering, and of such a length that the loop reaches to within i^ inch of the end of the cane. The thumb is not passed through the hand loop, and the tape is easily slipped off the opened fingers in case of entanglement. Shorter loops admitting only three fingers are sometimes pre- ferred (see No. 22 in fig. 4). Although I never use a loop, I seldom drop a stick, which is an accident that puts one at a great disadvantage in an important match. Some players use a thong instead of a loop, and give it a turn round the BALLS palm so that by opening the hand it runs off. Others use weak or half-cut-through loops. Sticks Used by Various Players (as per Mr. Salter's List). Length Head Mr. Ansell Mr. N. Haig ... Mr. Buckmaster Messrs. Miller ... Mr. W. J. Dry- brough Captain Egerton- Green Captain M ac - Laren Captain Le Gal- lais Messrs. Peat Lord Southamp- ton Mr. J. Watson ... Inches 51.52 51,53 52 51,52 52k 52 52,53. 54 51,52 52,53 52 54,55 Large square, extra heavy Ditto Rugby head . . . Rugby style, No. 4A, square No. 6, 7 or 75 ozs. No. 7, round... OvalC'LeGal- lais ") Square, two sizes No. 6 Special, round Weight Canes 21 oz., very heavy Ditto Very heavy and very- stiff white canes Ditto Rather heavy Rugby cane and handles Ditto Ditto Ditto Light ditto Stiff white Light White ; fairly stiff Medium White ; with side Fairly heavy loops Stiff white Fairly heavy White Medium Stiff red canes I now (May, 1898), use — and prefer— the Rugby stick, with spine-handle, rubber grip, and side- loop of tape made to pass my second and third fingfers throuo^h. BALLS. Po/o balls are made of willow wood, and accord- ing to the rules they are supposed to be 3 inches in diameter ; but to my certain knowledge no balls smaller than 3J inches have been used at Hur- lingham for at least ten years past. Anything of less size than this would be badly suited to our 32 POLO ACCESSORIES rough hoof-Indented English grounds. A wag once described golf as ''a game played with in- struments the least suited to the purpose." What would he have said of polo balls ? They are always chipping and breaking, or getting knocked out of shape, and are unkindly things to hit with a wooden headed stick, and nasty things to be hit by. None of the various substitutes for the present pattern which have been tried, have proved success- ful. I have experimented with cork balls dipped in a solution of gutta percha. and believe that they might be yet worked out. Bamboo root balls, which are used in India, do not suit in England ; for they chip, get water logged, do not fly w^ell, and vary in weight. One might, however, school a pony with them. Captain Herbert mentions alderwood as suitable ; in America bass wood is used. Willow balls weigh about 4^ ozs. Balls over 5 ozs. are dangerous to man and pony on account of their weight. Thoroughly well seasoned wood, best kept a couple of years after purchase, should be used. Messrs. Clapperton, of Edinburgh, who used to make for the Edinburgh Club, were accustomed to cut out or rough turn their wood in autumn, and then finish the ball in early spring, so that any winter shrinking across the grain would not give rise to an oval shape. Balls are none the worse of three coats of white paint, which had best be of zinc as It does not turn vellow like white lead. u w ^ u u DRESS ^^ Each ball Is wrapped in tissue paper. Balls rarely remain fit for play after a few minutes' use. Some fly in bits at the first stroke ; a degree of brittle- ness which greatly depends on the grain of the wood. Root wood wears well but is likely to be very heavy. Local turners who sell cheap balls are apt to pass off faulty work, cracked wood, heavy balls turned down smaller, &c. A cheap rate would be five shillings per dozen for quantities. Salter's charofe of 6s. a dozen is verv reasonable consider- ing the excellent article he supplies. DRESS. White is ^^ rigiLcur on every polo field, Club colours excepted. Even on private practice days it looks bad to come in coloured breeches or shirts. Breeches. — Bv o^oincj to well-known makers of hunting breeches, the purchaser will get perfect cut, good workmanship, and the latest thing in materials. The cost will probably be about £2 15s. to ^3 3s. a pair. If one must study economy, perhaps the cheapest way is to buy the stuff, twilette or similar material, and have it made up by some local tradesman accustomed to making breeches. One may have some trouble getting a good fit, but if successful the moderate priced garments will do all the work of more expensive ones. I have often bought white gabardine from Messrs. Burberry for about los. 34 POLO ACCESSORIES (3s. 6d. a yard), and had it made up for another half sovereign. Minor breeches - makers charge from one to two guineas. All breeches should be "strapped same" at the knees, with cross sewing, or they will soon cut. Leather strapping wears well, but is troublesome to dry after washing. Continuations are not necessary, but I like to have the calf band much deeper at the back than it is usually made, for it can then never pull up above the boot. Lord Harrington showed me a clever arrangement, which consists of long straps of the same material as the breeches, which pass under the feet (like trouser-straps), and have a narrow band over the instep to keep them in posi- tion. With these straps the breeches cannot possibly drag up, and no strain is put on boot loops or tags, which without them are apt to tear off buttons. Breeches should fit tightly round the knee, and should not wrinkle on the inside. Above the knee they should be very easy, and should not drag from knee to seat when in the saddle, for if they do, they will easily split ; a possibility which furnishes a good reason, besides health considerations, for wearing under-pants. Four buttons should show- above the boot, and should be spaced at f inch. The top button should lie well up at the outside of the knee cap, in that little hollow said humourously to be designed by Nature for that special purpose. Nothing looks worse than to see the buttons BREECHES 35 right round the outside of the leg, and very low down, In the manner generally worn by rustic grooms. To avoid this risk, men have pulled the buttons so far to the front that now some ''ex- quisites " actually wear them on the inside of the knee-cap, which is not a bad place for riding-out polo work, as in rough matches it is quite a common thing to have buttons torn off. I lately had a pair of breeches made with laces instead of buttons, and found that the arrangement works well. The lowest (fifth) button is apt to get pressed into the leg by the boot, and thus to give rise to acute pain. In this case, it should be moved round nearly an inch. A wxdge between boot and tree will stretch the leather and take the strain off. The back button should be about two Inches nearer the front ones measuring from outside than from Inside. Front flys are better than flaps, for which the material used at polo is too slim. It is convenient to have across the riorht front a handkerchief-pocket, which should be kept clear of any belt worn. Some men have a strap-and- buckle behind, others wear belts, either a narrow i^ Inch one of white web or calf, or a 4 inch football belt, which can be passed through loops at the back, front and sides. Broad belts require special loops to let them come up high enough to hide the tops of breeches and pants. Separate knee-guards save breeches from cutting ; and those made of soft leather are less liable to 36 POLO ACCESSORIES slip round than those of stiffer material. The buckles should be out of the way at the back or inner front of the leg-. Any washerwoman can scour breeches, but some imbeciles put them through the mangle and smash all the pearl buttons. The quicker they are put Into the tub after wear, the easier will saddle stains come out. On London grounds the pavilion valets see that all washings are back after a day's interval. It is advisable to have one's name on one's clothes. Brown butcher boots are now the only polo wear. Newmarkets, with boxcloth or canvas leos are rarely seen. Though cool, they do not stand rough work and give little protection to the legs in riding-out bouts. Black patent leather butcher boots are not objectionable, but brushing ones should never be worn, because the blackenino- homes off when damped by sweat from ponies, and makes a filthy mess of other players' boots and breeches. Brown calf stands work and wear best, though many men prefer Russia leather^ which looks elegant, fits softly, and has a fine odour, if that is any good ! The best makers charge £/\. los. for the former, and £^ los. for the latter. Buying from a first-class house comes cheapest, in the end. Well made boots of the best quality last for years, and will eventually be cast aside, not because they are worn out, but because they^ BOOTS ;^j look antique and recall the unpleasant fact that ''years have flown" since they have been bought. If we see an unknown player come on to the polo ground in split-new yellow boots, we cannot tell whether he is or is not an experienced hand ; but if he appears in well-patched old brown affairs lookino- as if but little of the oriorinal material was left, we would do wrong- to bet against his side unless we knew something. The awful burlesques we often see in shop windows are probably "made for the Colonies." For the information of those who cannot buy at head quarters I may advise that the legs should be rather on the long side, well up to the fourth button of the breeches, and jacked to save the wearer w^hen hustled, but they should not be uncomfortably stiff They should fit fairly close round the top, and should not gape like country-made things. The heels should come well forward to keep the stirrup Iron in the right place under the instep ; 3J inches long by -^ inch high is about right. The sole should be flat and broad at the waist, and it Is best to have It nearly straight and of equal thickness from heel to toe. Tags, with eyes for whipcord loops to fasten over fourth button of breeches, are sewn Inside the fronts of the legs. There are also strong leather tao-s behind to take the back button on breeches. The top of the buttonhole, before it stretches with wear, should be flush with the boot rim ; if shorter, a button-hook cannot be used comfortably. 38 POLO ACCESSORIES. Web puHIng-on loops at the sides should be either long enough to put the fingers through, in which case they must afterwards be pushed down with a wooden instrument like a strong paper-knife ; or so short that they do not project above the rims of the boot-legs, and will then require hooks to pull them on with. I like spur brackets to prevent spurs hanging down in a slovenly manner. The garter loop at back, which is separately sewn on, should be strong, and should be from f to -| inch wide. It projects about a ^ or f inch above the rim of boot, is sewn firmly to the top outside, and is not stitched nearer than ^ inch below the rim inside, so that there is lots of room to push a garter through. Garters to match the boot leather are about f inch wide. The narrow back strap which hides the join of the leg should meet the heel piece fully an inch above the spur rest. It is curious how badly repairs are done by provincial workmen, who usually put such narrow back loops, that to get the garter through them is worse than threading a needle ; and the tags are sure to be of wrong lengths and of such rubbishy leather that they break on the first occasion any strain is put on them. Trees are of course required for the boots, for doing up which Propert's brown Navy dressing is much used by valets. Brown boots made with the hair side of the skin out, not the flesh side, as in brushine leather, will get very easily scratched. They SHIRTS 39 should never be worn cubhunting, as thorn hedges, &c., will tear them all to pieces. Spurs, of hard plated silver, have usually straight or almost straight necks, the ends being either solid nobs, or fitted with plain wheels. It is a good plan to use no buckles on the straps, as they are apt to hang the wearer up in case of a fall, but simply to cut a buttonhole in the strap and fasten it over the spur side-stud. Shirts are of ordinary cricket or tennis patterns, and generally with attached turned-over collars. Cotton, white canvas or similar stuff, looks nice and white and does not shrink when washed, but woollen stuff is safer wear as regards health, for it protects the wearer from chill when he is sitting- out after warm play. In all cases woollen under- clothing should be worn. Silk shirts are apt to work up behind. I do not like silk jackets, for they balloon out in wind and make the wearer look like a giant caricature of a jockey. Many men never wear ties. Starched collars, which look smart, and which are worn w^ith a bow or sailor knot, should be cut very low. Narrow twice-round neck- folds, tied sailor knot style, suit for cold weather. Many men prefer short sleeves coming to the elbow only. For real hard play close-fitting jerseys look most workmanlike, and are made in Club colours. During rain, heavy jerseys, known as '* sweaters,"' are worn. Caps are either of the safety pattern, or of the 40 POLO ACCESSORIES ordinary shape used for golf, cricket, &c., but with extra large peaks to shade the eyes from the sun. Various safety caps are made of strong linen and shellac, or of pith, or of loofah, to prevent acci- dents from stick blows. Some men, Mr. Buckmaster and Mr. W. J. Drybrough among others, have been in the habit of playing bareheaded. Pith helmets, which appear to have the unfortunate habit of frequently falling off, have been worn lately by several players. I do not know of any cap which, turban-like, would save the side of the head from concussion in case of a fall on hard ground. A double rimmed pith safety-shape cap might serve all purposes and be light and cool. Cashmere caps wear better than silk, of which the colours all run together in rain. A leather glove — any easy old riding glove sewn with waxed thread will answer the purpose — is usually worn on the rein hand. A worsted glove, which is also useful for holding the reins when they have been made slippery by sweating ponies, is required in wet weather, and is habitually used by some players. In all cases a thin glove is best. Jaeger's pattern suits well. A leather glove with braid stitched on (Weston's patent) grips in any weather. It is advisable to wear a glove if we find that the stick blisters the right hand or makes it horny. A very thin cotton thread one, which may be rubbed with powdered resin, gives the best grip of all. ^ ^2 ■^ ^ - O BOARDS 49 Having marked out the. ground, side boards, which are used now on all first-class grounds, should be put up. The question of boards or no boards is no longer debated. I used to play on a ground boarded on only one side, to prevent balls running through a wire fence, but we all preferred the boarded side, as it kept the ball more in play. The boards at Hurlingham are now 1 1 inches hio^h, which is an admirable height when aided with turf slopes. Although it was not exactly the original Hurlingham size, I adopted it at Edinburorh because the local saw-mills chanced to cut their timber that breadth. The boards are of ordinary white wood, J inch thick, and rounded on the upper edge. The length of the planks, which at Hurlingham is 20 feet, is of no particular consequence. It is a good plan to use thicker wood where ponies cross from the stables than elsewhere. Back supports about 2 feet long are driven into the ground at intervals of 5 feet, and are 3^ inches broad and if inch thick where the planks meet. The intermediate ones are } inch thick. The tops are sloped off and the edges rounded so as not to injure ponies' legs ; and they reach to within i inch of the top of the boards (compare figs. 89 and 54). When nailing the ends of the lengths to the back-stays, screw^ nails might be used at the top so as to prevent them becoming loose when hard rapped. On some grounds these boards are merely tarred, but at 4 50 THE POLO GROUND Ranelagh they are painted green. At Hurling- ham, Edinburgh, and some other places, they are of a warm brick-red (terra-cotta) next the players so as to be conspicuous, and on the outside are of a turf-orreen, so as to harmonise with the lawns. T2trf slopes should always be made against the inside of the boards to prevent the ball lying so close against them that it cannot be played out with the stick head held square in the ordinary way. The turf should begin to rise at about 9 inches from the boards and rising 4 inches high will reach to within 7 inches of the top of the boards. Liverpool w^as the first place at which I saw, many years ago, raised turf, which took the form of a bank with boards on the top. It looked formidable, and the ball rolled back so far on to the ground that a player galloping along the boards often lost possession. At Edinburgh we at once introduced the style which is now in vogue, and which was adopted by Ranelagh two years ago, and by Hurlingham last season for the first time. To make these slopes the turf should be cut through at right angles to the boards and to a distance of about 15 inches out from them, at intervals of every foot along the boards. Having raised the turf with a spade, earth should be intro- duced below it, until there is a slope of rather more than 6 inches up the boards. The turf should be firmly beaten down so that it may not afterwards TURF SLOPES 5 I sink more than an Inch or so. Seven inches of clear boards will be right. If the turf Is not beaten down well, It may sink nearly level, and all the work will have to be done over aofain. It Is extraordinary how carelessly these slopes are kept on even the best grounds. Generally they are found ridiculously high on newly patched places, and practically non-existent elsewhere. The o-rass is often left so lono- that the ball at times sticks In It. I have seen hieh nettles and luxuriant marsh-mallows tiourlshing against the boards. There is no excuse for this neeli- gence, for an ordinary i8 inch hand mower run twice along them will do all that is required, and there wull be no need for smaller mowers or scissors. A boy can do this In an hour or two weekly at a trifling cost. At first, birds will pull up the edges of the cut turf to get at worms, and sheep are also very troublesome. Dry weather Is apt to kill the freshly laid sods If they are not watered. When- ever a sloped sod gets trampled down by the foot of a pony, it should be carefully re-raised. Owing to the fact that turf will not adhere to wood, the upper edges of the sods will gape away in dry weather from the boards, In which case dry earth should be put Into the openings and pressed against the boards with the foot. As grass will grow through the earth thus filled in, no turf patching will be required. If the ball 52 THE POLO GROUND runs up one of these little slopes It will in no case roll up over the boards, to jump which it must hop before reaching them. These slopes improve play wonderfully. No. 2 ground at Hur- lingham has boards without slopes, and consequently it is difficult to play a ball which is close in under the boards, especially where the boards curve. Hence the absence of these slopes makes the games very unsatisfactory. The proper keeping of the turf on the main ground is of the first importance. Being able to water it is of great advantage, though grounds that have been much watered are apt to play too soft after rain. Men accustomed to soft turf are terribly afraid of unwatered ground on account of the injury it inflicts on the legs of their ponies. Besides, it is also dangerous in cases of falls. At Edinburgh, where we had no appliances for watering, we got used to the hard going and found we got our fastest and best games on it. Although it was often bumpy, the thin grass on the sandy soil prevented it from being slippery. The legs of foreign ponies stood much better than those of English ponies on this hard turf. My experience is that the ground suffered more from play during long spells of dry weather than from cutting-up after rain. No matter how badly cut-up a field may be in wet weather, it will be little the worse if it is all tramped down and rolled before next day's play, for all the roots will live. TURF 53 Harm is mostly done by playing on ground which has been rolled before it has been properly tramped down ; the omission being generally due to the management being short handed, to the absence of good trampers, or to want of time. When the ground is thus prematurely rolled, much of the displaced turf sticks to the roller and is carried away, only to be scraped off as dirt. Other pieces are flattened wrong side up, or are crushed into wrong places and then leave bare spots and gaping hoof-holes for the rest of the season. On un- watered grounds, much of the displaced turf will be sure to die, if a hot Sunday follows late play on Saturday. In dry weather a good deal of the replaced turf withers, and many small chipped-off pieces can never be collected. Players can clearly see the damage done to soft turf, but few realise the fact that play in dry seasons is much more destructive. For trainping at Hurlingham after a match, there are often more than twenty trampers. These men are easily got in London, where the supply is merely a matter of money ; but in the provinces they are more difficult to find, especially about harvest time, and besides, managers of country grounds have often to study economy. Half-a- dozen trampers probably do, or pretend to do, the work; for many are too lazy to stoop down to replace the bits of turf, which they kick in anyhow. Boys simply begin to play after the 54 THE POLO GROUND first few minutes. I have found that two or three trusty workers on the clay after a game do more than a dozen loafers on the evenino- after play. A couple of boys are always useful about a ground, one to drive the roller, lead the mower- horse, &c. , and another to keep the lawn chairs, trim the grass, &c. They should be kept separate ; the centre-ground man taking one, the lawn man the other. When only a few hands are available, tramping should be done in strips to allow of rolling also being proceeded with. Rolling cannot be done when the turf is mud soft, and it is useless when the ground is very hard, in which case the mower does the best rollinof, but at a o-reat sacrifice of the knives. Four feet is a oood breadth for a roller. A tray on the top is useful, and some old furnace bars may be added to give weight. Supposing that the ground with end margins is 340 yards long and 170 yards broad, and that three inches is allowed for overlapping, the roller will have to travel 136 times the length of the ground, that is, 26^- miles each time the ground is rolled after a day's play. About the same distance is gone over when cutting, not counting side margins, lawms, &c. I have know^n members who, after playing very late on a Saturday, have turned up on the following Monday after- noon, and have coolly said, with disappoint- ROLLING 55 ment orr their faces, "Oh, you have not rolled all the ground, and not cut any ; " well knowing that only one horse was kept. It is a pity that such men are not made to do some of the work ! At Hurlingham two rollers are always used. At Rugby a water-ballast roller, 6 feet 6 inches long, and weighing 26 cwt., is employed. It gets quickly over the field but requires a strong horse. Extra rolling (and tramping) is needed in front of goals, at the centre of the ground, and perhaps near the stables, and it is a good plan to make different men responsible for these places. It is impossible to keep a ground in good order if players are allowed to practise upon it on off days. On the usual play days, the moment games stop for the day, no player should be allowed on the ground. Nothing disheartens trampers more than seeing the turf they are treading in being all poached up again. For roller work a good strong horse, not a pony, is required. The animal should of course have no calkins on his shoes, and the slower he goes the better ; but when mowing, which is very severe work in hot weather, the horse must walk smartly. I have found hiring more satisfactory than buying. Any cart-horse can roll after a fashion, but for mowinor it is well to have a horse used to the machine ; for there is risk of accidents with an inexperienced animal. 56 THE POLO GROUND Cutting may be necessary three times a fort- nieht in the beeinnincr of the season, but after June once a week may suffice, and even still less frequently later on, according to the growth of the grass. The field should be cut length ways and cross ways alternately, and all rolling should be done from end to end. The ground should of course be tramped, and if possible rolled, before cutting. Shanks' mower is in general use. Most clubs cut with a grass box attached, but that is not necessary when the grass is thin. The mower ought to have a broad driving wheel with extra deep cogs ; for shallow teeth are sure to ''ride" and "strip" the wheel, leaving the machine useless at critical times. These accidents always happen when men are hurrying the cutting to get ready for some important match. The mower should be put in charge of a man who understands these machines, and he should be provided with duplicates of parts most likely to go wrong. All grounds should stand three days' play per week. If a ground is used much oftener, it will only be good for a short season, for only the early part of which it will be at its best. The No. I ground at Hurlingham is open for only three months, and is always closed for at least one day a week, and generally for at least another day weekly before matches ; the other ground being used on these off days. Yet for all that, after six u 5 < o H u .^1 H CO u DC .:: UJ OJJ 11 o ,--< ^ < u _1 c ^ -l-> p 03 rt , _i_; ox Q .s u hn 3 II X SOWING SEEDS 57 weeks' play the No. i ground becomes very rough and' untrue, especially in a wet season ; although it is almost needless to say that everything that thought can suggest and money command is done to keep it in good order. It has the great advan- tage that it is not played upon before ist May, at which date spring grasses are well grown, and it is closed about the end of July, which allows plenty of time for growth and recovery of turf. The grass in late seasons has hardly started grow- ing when we begin play a week earlier in the colder North, and by the time we have ended in the last week of September, growth has practically ceased. Rolling during the off season Improves the turf. A steam roller may sometimes be used with advantage, but with it care must be taken not to injure subsoil drains. Growth may be forced to some extent by using artificial manures. Peat- moss litter, when employed, leaves a refuse that requires to be swept off. Sowing seeds no doubt does good to short season grounds. I tried both fine grasses and rye (to please the farmer) on the Edinburgh ground, but doubt if either experiment was very successful. The idea that a plentiful sprinkling of seeds in autumn will be followed by a strong growth of grass in spring, does not tally with my experience ; for I have found that only young blades like needles will have had time to grow. 58 THE POLO GROUND My plan was to hoe up and transplant the strong" rooted self-sown grasses that sprang' up in spite of us on the ash-gallop and old tennis courts which adjoined our polo ground. These hoeings tramped in during wet weather filled up many hoof-holes and grew strongly. A good plan is to lift sods of close-mown turf from spots from which it will not be missed, round the boundary fence for instance, and tear them in pieces for scrap turfing. This is far better than putting big pieces of turf down. At Hurlingham, the custom is to wait till the season is over before doing something of this sort, called "darning"; but I prefer to do it during the season, so that the field may never get into such a state that balls lie half hidden in hoof-cups. A machine, like an oil-cake breaker, to tear these sods would be useful. The wate^nng of a polo ground generally neces- sitates a heavy outlay for hydrants, hose and force pumps. A skilled hydraulic engineer should be consulted. If the hydrants are placed beyond the side boards, five on each side of the ground will be required, but if placed down the centre of the ground, which is not a good plan, six will be suffi- cient. The ground near the hydrants is apt to become over soaked, and the pieces of loose turf used to cover them are objectionable to riders. When possible, polo grounds should be watered the evening before play, never immediately before a game, because if this is done the ground will MARKING 59 be slippery and dangerous. A man, with an assistant to hold the hose, is required for each hydrant. Watered grounds are good for ponies' legs, but if rain falls the turf will quickly ride heavy. Before boards were introduced, small flags were used to mark the side boundaries. Corner flaes o are still sometimes retained, though everybody can see where the boards end. It is also customary to place small flags at ^o yards from the end lines, the fact of which being marked with lime- w^ash renders the retention of flags unnecessary. Flags should in no case be placed nearer than 6 (better 9) feet from the boards, which distance keeps them out of the way of players. I prefer only sticks without flags (balls might be fixed on them near the top), so that the only flags flying are those on the goal posts. Marking the back line is done with white lime- wash, for which purpose an ordinary tennis marker may be used. The goal-line is usually gone over carefully by hand. Some provincial grounds adopt the very objectionable practice of having the back boundary marked by cutting out with a spade a narrow V-shaped line, which is not only liable to catch balls, but is also apt to trip ponies up. A permanent mark is easily made by replacing the cut out turf upside down. Where boards were not used I have seen side lines made by turning over turf with the cutter of a plough and then replacing it earth side up. 6o THE POLO GROUND Groundmen, when first marking out lines, should run the machine wheel over a stretched cord. A little paint mixed into the wash will leave a mark which rain will not obliterate. At Edinburgh I always used red or pink wash for the 30-yard lines ; because, when these lines are white, players are apt to think the ball is out behind while it is still In play. I also drew across the centre of the ground a line, which Is useful when throwing in the ball, and during play it shows spectators and players whose ground the ball Is In. At Hurlingham the 30- yard line was marked for the first time last season. A painted mark on the outside of the boards is useful for groundmen. To mark the 2 5 -yard distance from the middle of goal a half circle is described from the centre of the goal line with a 25-yard cord (see fig. 7). The exact centre of the ground Is marked with a star or spot by clearing off the grass and applying paint. Groundmen should not leave llmewash marking to the last moment, as It only shows white when it Is dry. The goals are at the centres of the back lines, and there should be 8 yards clear between the posts. The exact centre of the back line having been found, cross marks are made 4 yards on either side of It. If the posts are 8 Inch diameter, the centre pins should be 4 Inches outside the respective marks. No part of the base should project over the back line, or some irate player may GOAL POSTS 6 1 say that the man who placed the posts '' lost them a goal and the match by having the confounded posts half way up the ground." As wooden goal posts are dangerous when galloped into (even small flag sticks hurt), safety ones are always used. At Hurllngham, Ranelagh and almost all other grounds the Wlllesden safety posts are employed. They are cardboard tubes 12 feet high, tapering from 8 inches at the base to 4 at the top, with a wooden disc in the base havinor a centre hole for a supporting stick to pass through. The top plug or rimmed disc is perforated for a flag stick which is 2 feet long. Flags about 12 Inches by 18 are commonly used ; more rarely bannerets. Club colours may be flown, but I much prefer red, which catches the eye quickly. Cotton wears better than buntino-. On some o-rounds flaofs are not used, which I think Is a mistake ; for o-lanclne up or over one's shoulder in the hurry of a game, It Is much easier to spot the goals w^hen the the moving red flags are present to help one, than when they are absent. There should be no other flags near to cause confusion. Club colours, if wanted, had better be flown at the pavilion. The best colour for goal posts is white, except for a distance of four feet from the bottom, which should be black so as to show clearly on which side of the post a ball passes. If the posts are painted club colours, the darkest colour Is used for the base. Hurllngham has white posts 62 THE POLO GROUND with blue bases ; Ranelagh white with red. Foliage makes a good background for goals. Where there are fences, buildings or other objects which would be likelv to cause confusion, a screen should be erected, and may be painted green. At Edinburgh, where the ground is much ex- posed to strong winds, we used posts lo feet high, 6 inches diameter at the base, tapering to 4 inches, and cork plugged at the top. The bases, besides having a centre pin through them, were supported behind by sticks driven into the ground, and were fastened to these sticks by straps and buckles. The lower portion of the posts was painted black for a distance of ■^'^ inches. These posts were made of cane-basket-work covered with felt and painted canvas, and could be galloped into at full speed without the rider or the post being hurt. They are practically indestructible, do not break over like paper posts, and last for years. The ones we had were experimental first attempts. If I were ordering new ones, I would have stiffer basket work and per- haps a layer of cardboard in the folds of the felt. At Eastbourne 1 saw goal-posts cleverly made out of linoleum, which, or similar material, can be bought cheaply and of various suitable breadths from any upholsterer, and might be strengthened by a cover- ing of canvas. Paint should not be spared on the posts, which should always look fresh. Holes should never be dug for the bases, for if the posts get knocked down, a pony may break its leg by SCORING BOARD 63 putting it into one of these holes. At Ranelagh the posts stand in zinc pots about a foot high to preserve the cardboard from rot or breakage. A ScojHng Board is required, to mark the goals which are made. At Hurlinorham the fioures are 30 inches high so that they can be read from the lawn on the opposite side of the ground. The letters may be much smaller, and may be made of zinc plates, painted in black and white. A divided stand or a pair of frames are required to hang them on. Plates with the words '' Reds," ''Whites," " ist Ten," "Minutes," "2nd Ten," "First," "Second," "Third," "Twenty Minutes," the name of the Club, and spare ones for names of other teams ; and a blackboard on which to chalk up names of players in practice games, time re- cords, &c., are required. Some clubs use a clock- face indicator to show time. A real clock on the pavilion large enough to be read by players out on the ground comes in useful. A large Szving Bell is needed to ring time, but in very high winds a powerful whistle is better heard. Umpires Whistles with cords to hang them round the neck, must also be provided. xAs they are often carried away by mistake, it is well to have more than two. The best whistles are very shrill ones that sound whether blown hard or soft, and never get out of order. I suggest whistles made to strap on the hand or wrist by a rubber or leather band (see fig. 4, No. 14). 64 THE POLO GROUND We may arrange the ball baskets by having a large one at the pavilion, hung where an umpire can reach It, and two small ones with spare balls to hang on posts near the goals. Spare balls on the ground are too tempting to chance practisers. Colottred Vests are worn by one team to distin- guish sides. I prefer red. Turkey red cotton wears wxll. The vests, Introduced by Mr. E. D. Miller, are much better than the old shoulder belts. They are sleeveless, very open In front, have only two buttons, are reversible with two buttons on the reverse side, and fit anybody. They should be used In matches If the club colours are not suffi- ciently distinctive. A good stock should be kept In case of wet weather, loss, &c., so that teams waiting to play can get dressed and ready. Pony Shelters should be supplied on all first class grounds. At Hurllngham match ground there Is only one open shed 35 yards long, 10 feet deep, and with a cement floor. It has a wood-and-felt roof. Its back is formed by the boundary fence, and It contains a few swinglng-balls. At Hurllngham most of the ponies have to stand under trees, but fortunately the foliage Is heavy and the ground Is but little exposed. On the No. 2 ground there Is a longer shed than on No. i ground. At Ranelagh open sheds, which, however, only ac- commodate a few of the ponies present, have been run up against the backs of the small pavilions. The No. 2 ground Is rather exposed, and on It ponies are badly off in cold winds and rain. PONY SHELTERS 65 At Edinburgh there are 28 six-foot stalls, 22 of which are separated by divisions 4 feet high, the remaining 6 being divided by swinging-bails. As two ponies can stand in each stall, there is accom- modation for 56 ponies, than which number there are rarely more ponies on the ground. A guinea per stall is charged for the five months' season, and as all these stalls are booked beforehand the grooms need not race down to secure shelter. The rent quickly pays the cost of erection. When cement flooring is not used, the ground should be covered with ashes. Corrugated zinc forms serviceable roof- ing. Although fir poles make good supports, iron is better than wood, for ponies will not gnaw it. A water tap near the ponies should always be pro- vided, and a plot of railed grass or gravel on w^hich to walk them while they cool down comes in useful. The necessary precautions should be taken with those ponies which are inclined to kick when they are being led, although they may be perfectly quiet with a rider on them. The slovenly trick of jumping off a pony and sending him loose to his stable should not be tolerated, for it is apt to give rise to accident ; for instance, a lady might be injured, or the pony also might easily get kicked when passing others. A Stick Stand would be useful to players : ex^en a simple rail to lean the sticks against, with a roof board to keep handles dry when rain falls. At present bundles of sticks are left about anywhere, 5 66 THE POLO GROUND Strewn about verandahs, leaning against scoring enclosure railings, and littering stable sheds, all over the place. Pavilion Accomniodatioii will vary according to the purse and necessities of individual clubs. It may be said to begin at 7iil and to extend to palatial dimensions and fittings. I have enjoyed polo with crack soldier teams, where a gardener's tool-house was the only roofed place available for holding sticks, balls, goal-posts and various sun- dries ; where trees sheltered our ponies ; and a regimental tumbrel cart brought clown a tub con- taining ice, soda-water, and something stronger. I have played where our grooms carried up the refreshment baskets, and a 6-foot tent sheltered our lady friends when making tea. From this extreme of simplicity we pass through the gradual stages of provincial club requirements to the luxuries of Hurlingham and Ranelagh. The primary use of a pavilion is to supply dressing accommodation for players, with places to keep polo sticks, &c., and a hall or club room, which generally includes a refreshment bar, where members may meet together under cover. In some cases the roof of the pavilion, as at Hurlingham, is utilised as a stand, and is fur- nished with awnings. A pretty pavilion, usually of a rustic type and something in the Bungalow or Chalet style, gives character and importance to a ground. I like a pavilion best when it is T. B. D.] Fig. 10. — The Pavilion, Hurlinghar [ To face page 66. Fig. 11.— Mr. C. D. MILLER, on Arab Pony, Modena. (See page 302.) PAVILION 67 furnished in an inexpensive though appropriate manner. As HurHngham, which provides good dressing accommodation, and Ranelagh have their line club houses near their respective grounds, they have not done much in the way of bijou paviHons. Ranelagh has just erected a com- modious pavilion with stand. Our friends in Paris show their usual good taste in the pretty building at Bagatelle. Some American clubs have charming pavilions. It is a good plan to have in the pavilion two dressing rooms, one for members and one for guests, A manager's sanctum comes in useful, and being private, it can be used as a refuge for any player who requires a few minutes' quiet rest after an accident. A lounge on w^hich one can lie down is also desirable. Most pavilions have verandahs where more or less shelter may be obtained from sun or rain. The larger the club room is the better ; for in wet weather it is sure to be crowded, and in winter it makes a good storage place for lawn chairs, &c. The designer of dressing rooms should remember that players like to get a glimpse of the polo ground from their windows, and that players should be able to reach their rooms with- out havinor to crush throuo-h a crowd of visitors in the main club room. The fact of a door being open should not allow a view into the interior of the dressing room, and it is not judicious that what is said in the dressing room (members 68 THE POLO GROUND will talk loud) can be heard outside of it. Pre- cautions should be taken in the dressing room against the occurrence of cross window draughts, and presses or lockers in which players can store their polo sticks, boots, and changes of clothes should be provided. I find that small separate dressing cabinets, or curtained stalls about 5 feet by 7, are much appreciated. If there are fixed baths a plentiful supply of hot water should be laid on, and care should be taken that the hot water pipes do not make the rest of the pavilion unbearably warm. Large supply and run-off water pipes should be used for baths and basins. The bath rooms should not open close to outer doors ; or, if open roofed, be situated below the ventilation window^s. Iron barrack basin stands are suitable for small dressing rooms, in which should be provided a hot water sponge bath, such as a flat bedroom one, behind curtains. If tea is made in the pavilion, and spirits, &c., stored, it is well to have a brick built kitchen, in which the pavilion valet or waiter may sleep. If there is no drainage, earth closets and urinals are best placed behind the stables. A hot air press for drying clothes is very use- ful, and can be heated with charcoal. Among the necessary appliances, I may mention a dressing table, mirrors, brushes, button-hooks, tag-pulls and pushers, boot-jacks, boot-jockeys, &c. Besides afternoon tea, which may or may not CHAIRS 69 be gratis, clubs usually supply players with lemon - water, which is very acceptable in hot weather. Members, as at Ranelagh, Edinburgh and other places, prefer to help themselves to tea, while the servants see that things are right, and serve stronger drinks. This arrangement works well, except when some thirsty soul vexes the mind of the butler by drinking all the cream. At Edin- burofh we were content w^ith tea-biscuits and bread and butter, and did not aspire to the London luxury of plum cake, &c. A contractor is required for the general public. The orroundman needs a toolshed to hold his mowers, marker, barrow^s and other utensils. There should be a supply of chairs on the ladies' lawn. I prefer iron framed chairs to wooden ones, the backs of which are always rotting off. Paint stands sun and rain better and lasts much longer than varnish. Sparred seats are better than those of solid wood, as rain does not collect on them. Footstools are supplied on some grounds. As shelter from rain or sun, we may have a few tent-umbrellas, which look lively with their bright colours, but are of little use in a windy and exposed situation. An iron skeleton tent with awnings is more serviceable. Spectators should always have their backs to the afternoon sun ; for it is very difficult to see play when the sun is shining towards one. The dia- meter of a stand for military bands may be from 18 to 24 feet. ■o CHAPTER IV. CLUB MANAGEMENT. Financing" — Arranging Members' Games — Regimental Pony Clubs. Polo clubs which have only a small number of playing members are obliged, if any serious outlay is to be met, to obtain the money by enrolling non-playing members, who in return for their subscriptions have right of entrance to the club grounds at all times, with the further privi- leges of free admission for two ladies on guest days, and of granting introduction vouchers to other friends who are admitted on payment at the gate. Gate money cannot be much relied upon, as a few wet guest days during a short season may make a serious difference in the drawings. Attrac- tions must be provided for visitors ; good bands engaged ; shelter provided in case of rain ; and lawn, chair, and tea arrangements should be care- fully worked out. On the few provincial grounds where the public are admitted at a small charge, the far side of the o-round is usuallv devoted to STARTING A POLO CLUB 7 1 them. If a portion of the main lawn is railed off for non-members, the admission charge must be comparatively high, or this concession will compete seriously against the non - playing membership. Playing members are apt to forget the obligation they owe to non-players; and w^hen funds are not too plentiful, they should remember that the least they can do for their club is to introduce new members as opportunities may arise. I have been frequently asked how^ many players are required to start a club, and reply that there should be at least eight men, and if possible an arrano-ement should be made that if anv member has to be absent, he must mount a friend for at least four ten-minutes. A club once started o-ener- ally attracts new players, especially if a few moderately priced ponies are bought and offered to new recruits ; for many a man will play if a pony can be found handy, although he would not take the trouble to go and look for one himself. If there are no other polo clubs near, it is often difficult to arrange interesting guest days, and the management has to fall back upon inter-club games varied occasionally by gymkhanas, races, jumping competitions, pony shows, &c. As ejected players are apt to be sad grumblers on these days, and as wet weather may seriously interfere with functions which have necessitated considerable outlay and labour, it is advisable to devote half of the pro- gramme to polo, which arrangement will allow of 72 CLUB MANAGEMENT the Other entertainments being spread over future guest days. The Inter-club games, which may follow on after some special match and which had best be cut down to two twenty-minutes, should not always be the monotonous "Reds v. Whites" ; but may take the form of " Married z^. Single," "Military V. Civilians," " Welter v. Light Weights," " Under 30 V. Over 30," " Alphabetical Games " (Initial letters of surnames), &c. Lottery tournaments and handicap tournaments are always popular. For the Lottery Tournament, four bowls are used, in one of which are put the names of as many Backs (or specially strong players) as there will be teams engaged. The other bowls contain re- spectively, as far as possible, the names of men who play No. i. No. 2, and No. 3. A name being drawn from each bowl, these four form the first team and so on. Any odd names left are reserved as substitutes to take the place of absentees. A neat programme card gives a certain air of Importance to the proceedings. The success of a club must always depend, to a considerable extent, upon one or two members who take the lead In the management. Most players are quite content to leave the trouble of management to others (some few add to it by unreasonable grumbling). The manager of what may be called a society polo club should be in little matters what Napoleon was In ereat ones, "a master of detail." In a club of any size the labours and worries are much too u 2 0^ r ^ ARRANGING MEMBERS GAMES. J ;2^ onerous for a purely honorary manager, unless he is ably supported by efficient paid assistants. The manager has need of broad shoulders, considerable tact, and the knack of getting- his own way w^ithout appearing to be dictatorial. ARRANGING MEMBERS' GAMES. This matter always presents difficulties, and is best done by some one in authority, such as the manager or captain. A groundman is apt to be bullied and interfered with. Where there are many players there is little difficulty, for they simply play in order of arrival, In lots of eight. Two Backs or senior players may be selected from each eight and invited to arrange their own teams. Players as they arrive should write their names on a slate, and state if they are single pony men, are leaving early, &c. The person in charge should have a book and re-enter the names of players as they present themselves to him actually ready to play ; for many men write their names on the slate (or get friends to do so) before they dress and before their ponies have arrived. In this book the eight playing In each twenty-minutes should be recorded and the side should be shown with times of beginning and ending of games. A copy of this is chalked up on the notice board under heads of " Reds " and " Whites." One-pony 74 CLUB MANAGEMENT men should be bracketed in pairs, counting- as one man. They should arrange together which takes first ten-minutes and which second. When many players are down, the next eight to play should be ready to go out the moment the bell rings for first lot to stop playing. A good general rule to go by, except when too many players are down, is that each man with more than one pony is entitled to three twenty-minutes in list order. After he has had three, he is not entitled to more until every other player present has had three, even if some of these have been played consecutively. Thus, a player arriving late cannot claim two consecutive games till previous arrivals have had their proper rotation up to three twenties. The best way of keeping record is to enter the names in order of arrival, marked i, 2, 3, &c., with columns opposite marked " ist Twenty," "2nd Twenty," &c. ; and to bracket the first eight, to mark " i " aeainst each of them in the first column and to place dashes ( — ) against non-players. When it comes to the turn of the first lot to play again, we should mark " 2 " opposite them in whatever twenty-column is for that game. We can thus see at a glance how often each man has played. A single-pony man would be marked ^ and |. As the game-manager requires some time to arrange his new sides, it should be a rule that late arrivals cannot get into the next twenty-minutes if they arrive after the previous ten minutes' play ARRANGING MEMBERS GAMES 75 has begun. There is most trouble when there are only a few players down. If the man with two ponies w^ill occasionally miss his proper order and wait till later on, allowing a man with lots of ponies to play in his stead, though not strictly entitled, more games may be got. This longer continued play may suit men who cannot arrive early and who, if all play w^as over soon, would not find it worth while coming. There is often trouble when paucity of players makes it necessary for two twenties to be played running, an arrangement which, unless long rest- intervals are given, is too fatiguing to some men, while others under such circumstances, often unex- pectedly find that their ponies have had enough. Occasionally a member asks as a favour to be allowed to play out of turn in order to leave early for some special reason. Again, courtesy games are given to guests. Besides, men may be offered mounts unexpectedly, or, when delays have occurred, may have to leave to catch trains before playing the number of games they agreed to. Slio-ht accidents also disoro-anise thinsTs, and odd one-pony men cause bother. Clearly there must be a lot of give and take. It is the duty of every player to intimate to the game manager when he is playing his last twenty-minutes, and imme- diately to announce any unexpected change in his arrangements. In provincial clubs the captain can always claim 76 CLUB MANAGEMENT (by putting up notice) at least one twenty-minutes for his first team's practice game, taking the best four others available to play against them. When the names of many men are down, the game stops the moment the bell rings, no matter whether the ball be out of play or not. To save time the ball is hit out from behind after groals have been made. One or two boys should be told off to throw in balls played over the boards. When many names are down, long waits are saved and other advantages obtained by changing teams every ten minutes, instead of every twenty minutes. Late arrival of players is very annoying to men who come early and cannot get a game, and are then probably crowded out later on. The Messrs. Miller have a capital system at Ranelagh of pre- booking names for the first game, which is thus made into a small match, and is often much better than a mere chance arrival game. Polo players should make a point of being punctual on public match days. It is the height of selfishness and bad form, unless unavoidably prevented from playing, to throw over an engagement at the last moment, when it may be difficult for the others to find a substitute. Captains will do well to send out post cards reminding players of match engagements. REGIMENTAL PONY CLUBS "]"] REGIMENTAL PONY CLUBS. By Captain F. Egerton-Green, i2th "Prince OF Wales's " Royal Lancers. There can be no doubt that Regimental Pony Clubs are a great convenience to young players who, for various reasons do not care to purchase more than one pony or to keep more than one through the winter. If a player has one pony of his own passed by the Committee of the Pony Club, the club will provide him with a second pony for the polo season and keep It for him free of charo-e durino- the winter. Capital. — A convenient sum to start with for the purchase of ponies will be ^800, which can be borrowed at the rate of 5 per cent, or less accordino- to the arrano-ements of the work- ing Committee. It may be found convenient to guarantee repayment at the rate of at least ^50 per annum, although ^100 per annum can be paid without difficulty. ■ Subscriptions. — Ten shillings a month from all officers, say twenty, which will be ^30 a quarter,, or ^120 a year. Hire of Ponies will be ^10 for the season, which may appear a very low charge to those who have hired ponies for the season from dealers; but It must be borne in mind that the great object of a Regimental Pony Club is to make polo as y'^ CLUB MANAGEiMENT cheap as possible. This point Is lost sight of In some Pony Clubs, as for Instance those where the auction system obtains. This subject will be dealt with more fully later on. Rules of the Club will be found at the end of the chapter. Purchase of Ponies. — It Is advisable to start with a certain proportion of ponies which know the game, and which can generally be picked up at a moderate figure at the end of the polo season. A few four or five year old raw ponies should be bought In Ireland and broken during the winter months by those officers who have sufficient experience and ability to make a pony. The main point in buying ponies, is to get ponies to suit the respective men who are to take them over. A pony should not be changed about during the season and played by a lot of different players, but as far as possible should be kept to one individual and should be taken over by the same person year after year until It Is sold out of the club. Working on this principle, a new pony would then be bought to suit the requirements of this particular player whose pony has been disposed of, and he should have a voice in the purchase of the pony and should give it every trial that the vendor w^ould allow. Forage in the Winter. — It may appear at first sight that this Is not fully provided for by the los. subscription, but a certain number of of^cers are REGIMENTAL PONY CLUBS 79 usually willing to keep their ponies during the winter on the understanding that by so doing they establish an absolute claim to the pony for the next polo season. With two or three ponies taken off the hands of the club in this manner, it will be found that a very small charge (if any) will have to be made for winter forage, in addition to the usual subscription. If there are 14 ponies in the club there will be ^140 from " hire of ponies," and as only ^100 of that is paid every year to work off the borrowed money, the remaining ^40 goes towards meeting various expenses such as extra forao-e for the winter months. The cheapest plan foi^ imnter months is to keep the ponies in barracks in the various stalls left vacant by officers' horses away hunting during the winter. These stalls can orenerallv be s^ot in two or three stables near each other by a little arrange- ment and closing up. The plan of putting down peat moss litter and having the ponies led out for exercise for half-an- hour a day or at least every other day, has been found to work well. A liberal allowance of hay should be given, but not much corn, which should have plenty of bran mixed with it. Turning out on a farm has been found to be much more expensive. Looking aftei^ ponies can be done by the first and second servants of the Club Secretary, but this arrangement might not prove suitable in all cases. 8o CLUB MANAGEMENT The Auction System. — Some clubs put their ponies up to auction at the beginning of every season and the best ponies naturally fetch the most money for hire for the polo season. This may be a lucrative system as far as the Funds of the Pony Club are concerned, but It seems a bad plan, inasmuch as it does not tend to cheapen polo, which is the primary object of a Pony Club. Besides, it gives an unfair advantage to the more wealthy officers who can afford to bid up for the good ponies. Chmiging round Plan. — The plan of giving out the ponies differently on each day's play was tried by a certain club with the Idea that each player in turn should have the benefit of good and bad ponies alike. What the ponies must have been like at the end of the season It Is difficult to conjecture. That club failed. Having paid off £\Q>o a year for eight years, the ^800 borrowed to start the club will have been paid off, and the 12 or 14 ponies will remain in hand. The Income of the Club will now be ^120 or ^140 from hire of ponies and ^120 from sub- scriptions, making a total of ^^240 or ^260 per annum. If thought advisable, the los. a month subscription may now be discontinued. On going to India the entire stud of ponies would be sold and would probably realise about ^1,000, which could be utilised in buying ponies on arrival in India, so that the Regimental Team being well PONY CLUB RULES 8 1 mounted, might have a good chance of capturing the Indian Inter- Regimental -Polo Cup at the first attempt. This feat has only once been accom- plished and then, I believe, by a regiment which had not the substantial aid of a Regimental Pony Club. PONY CLUB RULES. I. — To consist of: — (a) Playing Members. (^) Non-Playing Members. 2. — Subscription : — Ten shillings per month. 3. — The ponies to be allotted by the Working Committee. 4. — Members to pay ^10 on taking over a pony. 5. — Members to feed and clothe ponies at their own expense. 6. — Ponies to be valued before allotment, and on return to Club. Deterioration to be made good by Member, if in the opinion of the Committee it is the result of neglect. 7. — All ponies to be available for Regimental matches. The risk in this case to be taken by the Club. 8. — In all other cases Members play the ponies at their own risk. 9. — Any deterioration in the value of a pony, which, in the opinion of the Committee, has been caused by any fault of the Member, will be specially considered by them. 10. — If any Member is dissatisfied with the second valuation of the Committee, the following alternatives to be open to him : — 1. To buy the pony at the original valuation. 2. To sell the pony by auction and make good the loss, if any, and the expenses of the sale. The above alternatives only hold good in the case of a pony being valued at less than the original valuation. II. — Qualification : — A Member must be in possession of one private polo pony, passed hy the Committee, to be qualified to take over a Club Pony. 12. — The Working Committee to have absolute control over the management, buying and selling of the ponies. The Committee to be elected at the Quarterly Mess Meetings. 13. — No Club pony may be raced on any pretext whatever, and no Club pony maybe entered for jumping prizes or gymkhanas without permission from the Committee. 14. — Club ponies may not be lent without permission. 6 82 CHAPTER V. THE POLO PONY. Choosing a Pony — Saddles— Bits, Bridles, &c. — Stable Matters — Work done by Polo Ponies. As the most important qualification in a made polo pony is ability to play the game well, an intending buyer, if satisfied on this point, should not be too particular about the animal's looks or nationality. Many men will assert that they wouldn't ride a foreigner, or a half-bred, or one that wasn't of a special size, type, sex, &c., and yet we need not be surprised if afterwards we find these gentle- men mounted on something of a totally different stamp, with of course an excellent reason for the exception. All the men in the Champion Cup Winning Team of last year (1897) owned foreigners, and Mr. John Watson himself had at one time the well known Argentine, Yankee, in his stable. In fact, good men ride all kinds. Naturally men have their fancies, according to their weights and styles of play, but only an extremely narrow-minded man would suppose that CONFORMATION S^ no pony can be good at the game, except his own particular sort. A light weight can generally handle a slight built pony best, and is not likely to gain by attempting to ride heavy ponies, no matter how handy they are. At times a heavy man may ride with advantage a very well bred pony which is a trifle under his weight, in pre- ference to a coarser bred and heavier pony, but it must be a really good one, and a stayer, and he should not c{et on it too often. Conformation is a valuable guide when judging an untried animal, but it is best to rely on known performances. Speaking of racehorses, a well known trainer once said to me : *' Show me his winning brackets, and I'll tell you if he is a well shaped one." There is much truth in the old saying, that " horses go in all shapes." Although there is no reason why a player should not have his ideal and buy it when he gets the chance, he will be wise to buy something short of but near it, in the meantime. Perhaps the most generally accepted beau ideal of a polo pony is a miniature thoroughbred steeple- chaser, which we will be lucky to find, if the animal is a good performer and of the type suited to our weieht. The first consideration is handi- ness, which is a relative term ; for instance, a high couraged pony that at times wants some holding may be perfection to a strong rider, but useless to a man who must have one with perfect 84 THE POLO PONY manners. Many of the best ponies require a lot of riding, and are far removed from the marvel- lous animals we read about, which play the game themselves, can stop in their own length, turn on a sixpence, and do other wonderful things. As no pony is perfect, we must be content with a fair proportion of good qualities. Next to handiness we want quickness and speed. By the former term I mean the alertness and viva- city which insures an immediate response to our indi- cations to start, turn, stop, &c ; and by the latter, the pace in a straight gallop. Quickness within limits may be considered as included in handiness. A fast pony is not necessarily a quick one ; for he may be a slow starter, and his length of stride may prevent him from turning and twisting quickly. Polo speed is relative to the size of the ground. The English mile race winner may at polo be left standing still by the American quarter mile flyer. Extreme handiness and quickness may make up, to a certain extent, for deficiency in speed, but to have any success and pleasure In a real good game, we must have a reasonably fast pony. Courage Is another Important requirement ; be- cause we want pluck In a pony for meeting other ponies, for riding out, and for refusing to be shouldered or bumped out of the game. A judicious rider studies his pony, makes the most of Its good qualities and avoids trying It too highly where he knows It to be deficient. The CONFORMATION 85 old Idea that a cobby half-bred turned quicker than the lighter thoroughbred is, I think, exploded. The well proportioned blood pony (not the ''weed") is as lithe as an eel; the difficulty being to get him heavy enough and able to carry weight. For information on " shapes," I refer my readers to Captain Hayes's Points of tJie Horse. I agree with himx in preferring a short-backed thoroughbred, a trifle " on the leg," that is, one with fairly long legs. The short back confers strength for quick repetition of stride ; the length of and ability to straighten the hind legs gives length of stride and consequent speed ; and the length of the fore limbs (with freedom and slope of shoulder) enables the pony to push himself round in turning, &c. To put the matter briefly, a small head points to pure blood ; an intelligent head suggests quick obedi- ence ; a well set on head and good neck assist mouth and manners ; a well sloped shoulder means that the centre of gravity is well back ; deep heart (chest) means good wind ; good ribs, good consti- tution ; short back, power of stride and ability to carry weight ; long thighs, strength for propulsion ; flat legs and clearly defined sinews, power and continued soundness ; and fairly long pasterns, resistance to concussion. If the pasterns are too long, they will act slowly, and the animal will be likely to slip in mud. Good round feet stand shock. A pony, in order to be able to carry with ease a S6 THE POLO PONY weight of 14 St. (196 lbs.), should weigh about 7^ cwt. (840 lbs.). If it has only to carry 12 st. (168 lbs.), it may weigh ^ cwt. (56 lbs.) less. When judging Eastern ponies we may deduct ^ cwt. from these quotations. The following are the weights of a few of my ponies while doing quiet exercise in March. Terry, 886 lbs. Wolfcatcher, 854 lbs. Cotton-tail, 847 lbs. Concha and Pinto Bill, each 840 lbs. Creole and Sweetwater, each 819 lbs. Slap-jack, 812 lbs. Seabreeze, yyy lbs. Khalifa and Bimbashi, each 763 lbs. Slap-jack and Sea- breeze are still growing.* A weight-carrying pony should measure about 7J inches below the knee ; a 12 St. pony may be 7} inch smaller. As for paces, a pony that walks out with a Straight step loses no time. A good " hunter's trot " without too much bending of the knee, and with free hock action, is nearly always accompanied by a good gallop. There should be no roundness in the gallop, which should be of the daisy cutting kind seen in the racehorse. The hind legs working like one, should be thrown well forward under the girths, and when finishing the propulsion, they should be lifted quickly without any appearance of streaming out behind. It is not absolutely necessary that an animal should have all these points and paces, to be a good polo pony, provided that lack in some '■^' The three ponies played by my brother in the Champion Cup Final — June, i8g8 — weighed respectively : — Charlton^ 876 lbs. : Twitter, 840 lbs. ; and Bismarh (Argentine) 819 lbs. E. GoRDOx, Putney, S.W.] Fig. 14.-Lord KENSINGTON S Sailor, by Lurgan. (See page 299.) E. Gordon, Putney, S.W.] Fig. 15.— Mr. W. J. JONES'S Bay Mare, Charmer. Played in Open ChampioR Cup, 189S. (See page 93.) TRYING PONIES 87 is compensated by super-excellence in others. With respect to the presence of a satisfactory- balance of points, a practised eye is rarely de- ceived and a few minutes' ride on a pony will tell the rest. Many celebrated ponies would not win in a show yard. For instance, I saw Dynamite, the best pony the Messrs. Peat ever owned, turned out of a pony brood mare class. This beautiful mare is a trifle long bodied and leggy ; she is high rumped, and her neck looks a trifle weak. Any man who would not buy with these peculiarities might have refused one of the best polo ponies that ever played. The well-known Charlton, who is as well shaped as she is good, won in the class I refer to. A player who only intends taking part in what are called members' games, not matches, may con- sider if his intended purchase is also likely to prove useful for other work, such as hacking and harness, and if it is of the type and age to be readily saleable later on. A first-class match player can hardly afford to take these secondary utilities much into consideration. As he buys to win games, he will hardly trouble his head about a pony's suit- ability for any other work, if it happens to fulfil its original purpose. The best of all tests is a trial in a game, which is very difficult to obtain in the case of a high class pony. For instance, I do not suppose that any of the ponies which brought the longest prices 88 THE POLO PONY at auction during- the last few years, had been tried with a view to purchase by the men who became their new owners. Even when we get a trial in a game, we must make some allowance for difference of hands and strangeness to each other of player and pony. Few men like letting strangers play on their ponies, which, if beginners, are easily spoiled, and then there is the risk of the man who did the harm putting the blame on the animal and thus injuring its reputation. I do not remember ever having- had a trial of a pony in a game before buying, although I have often given one before selling. The next best thing to a trial in a game is to see a pony played by a good man, whose per- formance will enable us more or less correctly to judge if the animal is likely to suit our own hands. Good ponies can often be obtained only if they are snapped up in a moment when the chance comes. For example, the former owner of my ponies. The Rake and Khalifa, had refused to sell them to me in Cairo, but later on he telegraphed to me from another place that I could have them. I accepted the offer without ever having been on their backs, or even having seen them with their bandages off. Similarly, at auction one must risk something to get a pony of any great reputation. After finding out all we can about it, we have to take our chance of the rest. Although a trial of a pony with stick and ball MESSRS. MILLER OF RUGBY 89 out of a game is better than nothing, it cannot be greatly reHed upon, and is best supplemented by authentic information or guarantee. Many ponies which are quite unmanageable, or are rogues, in a game, will school perfectly. On the other hand, some really good performers will play the fool at practice and give a very bad show. Unfortunately, there is no royal road to picking up a good pony. The Messrs. Miller, of Rugby, are the only gentlemen known to me who have gone systematically into polo pony dealing. An intending purchaser who wants a first-class pony at its true value, cannot do better than to apply to them. Their ideal is a high one, and when they have anything extra good they have purchasers ready to give long prices. Of course they also have at times good performers at comparatively moderate figures. Being on the spot and being good judges, they have excellent opportunities of watching and buying (or knowing about) good animals. Outside the type they prefer, there are, naturally, many excellent polo ponies. There are various horse dealers, whose advertisements will be found in the columns of The Field, and Land and Water, that are in the habit of buying ponies at Tattersall's and elsewhere ; and some well-known players generally have a few ponies for sale at what they consider their worth, and some sell annually at auction. To judge from the number of " bought-ins," these 90 THE rOLO PONY sales do not appear to have been too successful lately. Inquiries among players at Hurlingham and Ranelagh will let one know where ponies are likely to be found. The worst of auction sales is the fact than an intending purchaser can rarely tell whether the best ponies are really for sale, or whether they are only put in to draw bidders for less desirable stable companions. As regards the price at which a polo pony can be purchased, I may put down a common Regi- mental Club pony at ^50. In saying this I do not refer to chance purchases at the end of the season, or at odd times, or when nobody happens to attend the auction sale, on which occasions the price will probably vary from ^15 to ^30, to which the purchaser may have to add the keep during the ensuing winter. The purchase of the club pony is rather a lottery. He may be a trifle long in the tooth, his legs may be very doubtful, and his performance may be more or less an unknown quantity. As saving facts, we have the unlikelihood of his being ridden by the experts of the club who buy him ; the knowledge that he is not bought for any special player ; and the probability that if he is not found suitable for a good man he can carry a duffer. Occasionally " plums " are picked up unex- pectedly. We must be prepared to give about £yo for something which is better than a club PRICES OF PONIES 9 1 pony, possibly up to more weight, and which is beginning to show form at play. That sum should buy many fairly useful animals. To get a pony which has a reputation and which has played brilliantly under a good man, we must be prepared to pay about ^150, anything very much over which sum may be termed a fancy price, dependent on the purse of the buyer and on the special reasons for purchasing at exceptional mo- ments. For Instance, a pony wanted to help to win an Important tournament may bring ^200 o^ £300, Independently of his being sound, &c. ; though at other times his purchaser might have thought twice about giving a third of that price for him. It is a mistake to suppose that in order to buy a tip-top pony we have only to run into the street and wave a cheque for ^150 or ^200. In fact I have refused ^150 for promising beginners. Only last season I had three or four applications within a w^eek from friends who were anxious to find good players at long prices, but neither I nor the Messrs. Miller, whom I consulted in this quest, had the least notion where to find them. It does not do to defer buying till the last moment, for ponies are at their dearest just when polo begins, and naturally so, because the owners have been at the expense and risk of keeping them over from the previous season. Men who do not know the circumstances of the 92 THE POLO PONY case are too apt to say that ponies fetch ridiculous prices. Considering the few ponies that turn out first class and the labour and money ex- pended on the failures, I think that the present market value of good players is very reasonable. We now come to the question : " Should the player make his own ponies ? " which I answer emphatically in the negative. An experienced player may amuse himself with one if he likes, but will not undertake the training of more if he is wise. Somebody must do the schooling, but the average man will find that two or more young ponies at a time are a weariness to the flesh, and that their education is apt to make him a nuisance to his friends. Not one man in fifty will succeed in earning money at the work, or in making it help to keep his other animals, and he would probably do better schooling hunters, for it takes less time to make a dozen hunters than one polo pony. The Messrs. Miller, I think, prefer buying and importing made players, and therein show wisdom. In my notes on the various breeds of ponies I shall make further reference to prices, expenses, &c. On April 3rd of this year, 1898, the Messrs. Miller, of Rugby, had the most phenomenal auction sale of polo ponies ever held, thirty-one ponies averaging 281 guineas. The three highest prices were : — SADDLES 93 Sailor (hg. 14) 75o gs. Charmer ( ,, 15) ... ... 610 ,, Elastic 550 ,, At other sales this year, ponies have sold cheap ; many good useful animals have failed to reach their reserve prices. SADDLES. Ordinary full-sized hunting saddles are best for polo, especially for heavy men, as they are not liable to hurt a pony's back, and they give the player plenty of room when hitting. An ordinary saddle strongly made will weigh about 11 lbs., or with mountings, i4lbs. If much lighter saddles are used they should have specially strong trees. If a saddle is comfortable it does not matter whether the flaps are plain or have knee rolls, which certainly give a better grip on a trouble- some pony, although plain flaps admit of more leg freedom on a well behaved one. The best saddles now made are open chan- nelled, admitting air along the horse's back. I like them to be lined with cape-leather and stuffed with curled hair and felt. A short pannel coming only to the end of the points of the tree is admirable, provided there is a narrow continued knee-pad on a solid leather under-flap. Without this, if the animal is narrow in front, the rider's leg may have a continual tendency to slip for- ward. No saddle is comfortable until the pannel 94 THE POLO PONY and flaps yield to the pressure applied to them, and form o^rooves for the leofs. Grooms should not be allowed to use slippery dressings. I prefer the pommel well cut back. The old extra-cut- back style, lately christened '' Lane Fox," is very good. If the gullet of the saddle fits the pony's withers, and the cantle is clear of its backbone when the rider is mounted, the pony should never have a sore back. With serge lined saddles it is well to use a leather safety numnah. A bad fit at the withers may be corrected by using a woollen sponge-pad. It is poor economy to buy a cheap saddle, for it won't last, will stretch at the gullet, and will constantly be in need of repairs. A second hand one by a good maker may be a bargain. I pay Watt, of Edinburgh, £6 los. for a first - class saddle, mounted complete. A waterproof saddle cover comes useful for a led pony. Fitzwilliam woollen web girths (a narrow girth over a broad one) are very good. Coloured ones do not require pipeclaying. I generally use solid leather (see fig. 4, No. 24), but sometimes em- ploy plaited raw-hide girths, with the cross bars of doeskin (No. 25 in fig. 4); but not the solid leather bars with projecting ends usually supplied, for they cut horses. Solid leather girths with cut stripes, Australian fashion (No. 23 in ^^. 4), are also good. I do not like whipcord girths, which, if wet, shrink quickly when loose. Fig. 16.— Mr. W. H. WALKER'S Dynamite. (See page 299.) Gordon, Putney, S.W.] Fig. 17.-Lord KENSINGTON S Fizzer. (.See page 300.) \.To face page 04. BITS AND BRIDLES 95 Stirrup leathers may be rounded at the edges ; and should have the holes about f inch apart. A fairly heavy stirrup iron is more easily re- covered than a liorht one, if the foot comes out. Of course one should not use stirrups so small that the foot is liable to catch in them or so bio- that it can o-q throuMi them. Open bottoms (2 or 3 bars) are best, as they give grip even after the jags have worn smooth. If the sides are broad against the boot (Prussian shape) they are less likely to hurt the foot than if narrow. I like solid bars on the saddle-tree {i.e., no hinges). BITS, BRIDLES, &c. Men are apt to be faddists in the matter of bits, each having some favourite he is prepared to maintain is "the only right thing," although he may admit that other players no doubt get their ponies along "somehow," but not in the good style they would do if they used his special appli- ance, and employed it, of course, as skilfully as he does. Formerly, snaffles were considered the best bits for polo, and anything more severe was considered needless and cruel. Now-a-days, it makes some men positively ill to see a pony brought on to the ground in a snaffle, which they declare to be "very dangerous." They also assert that it is " impossible to play a pony in a snaffle," and 96 THE POLO PONY that ''no good man ever uses one." My own experience is that the best men suit themselves to circumstances, are not slaves to theories, keep open minds, and use whatever bits happen to best suit their ponies. After buying a made polo pony, it is certainly advisable to begin by using the bit he has been accustomed to. But (I speak feelingly) the pur- chaser should not be greedy and insist on having it "into the bargain." If the accustomed bit does not quite answer, the behaviour of the pony will probably suggest some other arrangement which will be likely to give improved results. The fact that the animal goes better in some new appliance does not prove he was wrongly bitted by the last owner : for different hands require different bits. When I have to break an ordinary quiet pony from the beginning, I prefer a half-moon joint- less snaffle (see fig. 4, No. i) about f inch thick, covered with leather, and with movable drop- keys to keep the mouth fresh. I successfully broke three unhandled Argentines on this bit, and previously played on it a very sensitive mouthed English mare which was troublesome and dangerous on anything else, and in fact had reared over with her previous owner several times. I may mention in passing that the three Argentines had com- pletely different kinds of mouths, though broken on the same bit and handled in exactly the same SNAFFLES 97 manner. I do not believe in the theory that every horse has naturally a fine mouth, and that all hardness depends upon the breaker. Equally useful but slightly more severe is a jointed snaffle (No. 2 in fig. 4), which should have a thick easy mouth-piece (f inch) and end-bars. Mr. John Watson played his celebrated Fritz on a plain snaffle, and Mr. E. D. Miller played Luna on one in last year's Champion Cup Match (fig. 3). I used it with the Barb pony Cid, which is the easiest guided pony I have ever ridden, and with an English racing pony which was so hot tempered I could not hold her comfortably on anything else. It is, however, true that the pony which plays best on a snaffle is the exceotion ; and that a snaffle is not as a rule a good bit for polo work. For a raw " wild- west " pony or hunter which I expect may buck, I begin with a double-ring straight-bar snaffle (^ inch : edges not too sharp), using two reins, one of them running from loop on bottom of girth, and I mount first in a loose- box, in which I turn the animal about to right and left so as to feel his mouth and judge his inten- tions before Qroino- outside. I find that this bit (No. 3 in fig. 4) can be used severely and that it is very useful for preventing a horse from getting his head down to buck, and for compelling him to wheel quickly whether he likes to or not. It was first shown to me by W. Jelbart, the 7 98 THE POLO PONY Edlnburo^h breaker, who is the best man I have ever seen for handhnor a dancrerous horse. The next step from a snaffle is a half-moon Pelham (No. 7 in fio-. 4), or an egg-Hnk (jointed) Pelham (No. 5 in fig-. 4), which latter was a favourite hunting bit with my father (a skilled horse- man), and is now regarded in the same light by my brother and myself. Mr. John Watson used this bit for one of his ponies at Hurlingham last year. I have used nothing else on The Rake for six years, and also use it for Terry, Seabreeze, and other ponies. Theorists are often dead against Pelhams, saying that the curb-chain, &c., can never act right with it ; although ponies play none the worse in it for all these supposed drawbacks. Next comes the most universally used of all bits, the ordinary ''double" arrangement of curb and bridoon. The short cheeked variety known as the Ward Union Bit (no doubt from the Irish Hunt of that name) is deservedly a favourite (No. 4 in ^^. 4). With an easy thick mouth-piece (| inch) it gives fair control without fretting the mouth. Last season Mr. Watson rode all his ponies but one on this bit. It is much used by many good players. With the ordinary English variety, Weymouth (No. 10 in fig. 4), I like the mouth-piece broad and easy, and the cheeks 71 or 8 inches long, although this length is con- sidered too severe by most men. It is a mistake to suppose that plenty of metal in a bit means BITS 99 severity, for the thinner the bar, the more will it fret and cut the mouth. I prefer |-inch mouth- pieces. Only men with fair hands should use long cheeked bits, which should be held lightly, and which are more effective for encourao^inor a horse to carry himself well in hand, than for con- tinually forcing him into obedience. Men who can use them properly will often get better results from them than from lighter bits, and may manage ponies which other players could not ride. Mr. W. J. Drybrough is a successful handler of this class of bit. I have always used them for Khalifa (an easy-mouthed pony), Creole and others. A round mouth-bar which has no port and which plays in grooves, suits many horses. If a pony hangs against a straight and rigid mouth-piece, I try a beaded Hanoverian Pelham (No. 8 in hg. 4), which cannot be easily taken hold of, as it is all joints. If the pony is light- mouthed, I like to use this bit covered w^ith leather, without which the Hanoverian bit is apt to nip the mouth at the different joints, and may con- sequently also require leather discs at the sides. The " Segundo " (No. 12 in fig. 4), which is a favourite with Lord Harrington, who generally has good mannered ponies, is a stronger bit than any of those mentioned. When heroic measures are absolutely necessary, I employ a high-ported curb with cheeks 9 inches long, and with a gridiron which has only slight lOO THE POLO rONV play, so that it will also act as a port (No. ii in fig. 4), and I use with it a rather tight nose- band, but no curb chain. This arrangement was shown to me by Mr. C. Armstrong. If necessary I employ a chain snaffle or gag snaffle, and probably a running rein coming from the girth up between the forelegs, on. the curb, which gear is only for ponies that must be mastered, and chiefly for schooling work. As it is apt to ruffle the mouth in actual play, it should only be taken strong hold of at special moments, to be at once slackened off again, and should be discarded for an easier arrangement the moment the pony can be trusted on lighter tackle. I have tried more inventions than I can re- member the names of, but rarely with any success. The "Ben Morgan" (No. 13 in fig. 4), with inverted halfmoon mouth-piece, which Is a favourite bit with Major RImlngton, Is occasionally useful for lowering a pony's head. The flexible india- -rubber Pelham (tube over chain) suits some troublesome mouths, and Is good for hacking work (No. 6 in fig. 4). I regard the spade - ported Mexican and port with jaw-ring Turkish bit as barbarous and useless abominations which may be useful in the hands of semi-savages, who pretend to be able to break a horse's jaw with them. Although they will certainly cut and injure any horse's mouth, they will not stop a puller and are by no means the kind of bit a capable horseman RUNNING REINS lOI would use on a confined polo ground, for steering a high-couraged pony. The same remarks apply to nearly all the many patent bits, nose closers and rein and twitch arrano^ements I have tried. For polo w^ork, a pony should not be stopped by cutting his jaws with a sharp bit or with whip- cord, or by closing his nostrils till he reels blind and half stupid, rebelling at every touch and ready to fight again the moment the reins are slackened oft"". If a pony cannot be managed by ordinary means after a reasonable trial, it is best to sell him, for the first loss will be the least. No bit ever invented will steer a determined puller, and the best man in England cannot make a polo pony of him. All the same, many troublesome ponies have turned out treasures in the hands of skilful patient men. Running reins properly used are very valuable, for if a pony gets his head too high he can often take command of his rider. Many (not all) will lower their heads to a running rein, especially if it is applied to the curb. On the other hand many ponies will not face a running rein or even a severe bit when ridden with a heavy hand, although with a lighter touch on their mouths they will play perfectly. Two running reins, on both curb and snaffle, are awkward to handle and therefore cannot be recommended. A oraor-snaffle and a runninor rein on another bit work well together, for if a pony suddenly I02 THE POLO PONY yields his head we are not left with a quantity of slack reins in hand. A o^ao- is often useful, not only to prevent boring and other faults of mouth, but also to allow in single handed riding the pressure to come automatically on the curb bit when needed. Although the natural action of a snaffle is to raise the head, and of a curb or running rein to lower it, these respective appliances will at times have the opposite effects. Some ponies will throw up their heads and others will bore down on any bit. As a player has not time at polo to slacken the reins and wait until a pony lowers his head, he had better not give a star-gazer the chance of putting it too high, and may consequently find a running rein effective for keeping it down. Stand- ing martinofales are in m^ost cases useful. I like them best attached to a broad nose-band ; and think that when they are fastened to the snaffle (perhaps the better method for hacking) they are apt to confuse a pony, who will not always discriminate between the jerks he may give his own mouth and the indications given by the hand. For ponies which get their heads too high on any martin- gale that is not too tight to prevent free gallop- ing, I have used with success a nose-band hung low on the nose below the bit (a thin piece of rope with ring ends, hung from the ordinary nose- band) ; but this arrangement will not suit ponies which press against it and consequently choke. E. Gordon, Putney, S.W.] Fig. 18.— Captain RENTON'S Matchbox. Played in Open Champion Cup, 1897. (See page 300.) E. Gordon, Putney, S.W.] [To face page 102. Fig. 19. — Mr. W J. JONES'S Little Fairy. Ridden by Captain Renton in Open Champion Cup, 1S97. (See page 300.) MARTINGALES IO3 In fact, Standing martingales do not suit ponies that stiffen their necks and push dead against them. Nose nets are rarely seen now, for most ponies soon find them out. If used they should have holes (leather bound) at the nostrils, and the reins should be slacked off after every pull. I was able to hold my old favourite. Lady Doncaster, on no other arrangement. A narrow strap buckled round the muzzle below the bit will prevent some ponies pulling, and is also good for ponies given to " savaging." Running martingales put on long- are useful for ponies w^hich only at rare times throw up their heads and thus render the reins liable to eo over their ears. The Spanish martingale, or ring below the throat, is useful on one pair of reins if there is another pair free to ride with. A strap loop buckled over the reins is perhaps a better arrangement. I do not care for a pony that carries his bit much higher than his w^ithers ; although many players allow much more room, and some crood men ride with their pony's heads anywhere. A neck strap is useful to pass martingales or running reins through. I like running reins to come between the forelegs and to fasten by snap-hooks to a loop-and-ring passed over the girth. Swivel runners attached to bits are good for passing running reins through. I do not consider the old fashion of crossing run- ning reins through the bit rings to opposite sides (best through double swivels) for stopping pullers, I04 THE POLO PONY suitable for polo ; because with it a pony cannot be guided kindly. Leather curb chains (or guarded chains) suit many ponies. Sewn-on reins look much better than buckled ones, and stud-ends are neat and very useful. I do not like snap-hooks, for they easily get out of order and sometimes hook one to the next player. Fancy brow-bands are rarely used, and web for martingales, &c., less than formerly. Solid leather is the best wear. Ordinary reins have quite superseded the once common short overlapped slip-up polo rein, which was good enough for little short-necked ponies, but on the ponies now played a rider could not get enough freedom for drawing back-handers, &c., with them. The wearing of a tight standing-martingale will cause some ponies to refuse to be led out of the stable, and if a pony falls, it will prevent him re- covering quickly, and may make him stumble on to his dismounted rider in his attempts to get up. In such a case it is a good plan for the rider, if he can, to put his hand over the animal's eye and to keep the pony down until help comes. As a pony fortunately does not slip up and fall once in several years, and rarely hurts his rider when he does so, standing martingales are w^orth risking for the control they give at other times. WINTERING PONIES IO5 STABLE MATTERS. No pony can gallop and keep galloping- in a good game unless he is in perfect condition. Ponies which have been kept up all winter in quiet exercise are the likeliest to be fit in the beginning of the season, Those which have been running out, but which were hay and corn fed, should come quickly, especially if they are given a full allowance of oats for six weeks before they are taken up. After that, a couple of months' steady exercise should bring them into fair order. Ponies confined in boxes or small yards will take longer, and those that have been wintered in cattle-yards and fed on boiled roots, raw potatoes, corn field rakings, hay-stack bottoms, and other rubbish will generally be so soft and anaemic that half the season will be spent getting superfiuous water and fat out of them before they will begin to lay on muscle. To allow ponies to be treated in this way is penny wise and pound foolish policy. Wintering need not necessarily be expensive. For instance, I had a pony last winter at Sir Henry Simpson's place in Windsor, on livery at I OS. a week, with veterinary attendance extra. Last year I had three, which I had lent to my brother, running out with Messrs. Miller at Rugby, at I OS. 6d. per week each. One can get them kept on farms at 7s. or 8s. a week, but in such I06 THE POLO PONY cases they are too much at the mercy of yard- men who may or may not be careful about their feeding. A friend of mine has his ponies running- out in Leicestershire, in a grass park which is rented at 30s. per acre. Owing to the fact that last season was open, they required no dry feeding- previous to Christmas. Since then they have got a little hay and 3 lbs. of oats daily. I have had fifteen ponies at my Hurllngham Road stable all winter, mostly doing exercise. They stand on peat moss at a cost of about 8d. per week each (straw would cost about 2s.), and they get 9 lbs. of hay daily In two feeds, at ^5 per ton, and 6 lbs. of oats per day divided Into three feeds, at 20s. per quarter of 40 lbs. to a bushel. Any of them which are not at exercise get raw Swedish turnips or bran, Instead of the midday feed of oats. The only difference in their feeding when they are In hard polo work is that the three feeds of oats weigh 3i lbs. each. On this they not only thrive well, but are apt to be uncomfortably above themselves. I prefer peat moss to straw if properly used. In hunting quarters, my horses stand on straw, which I dislike, not only because some horses have to be muzzled, but because the boxes are apt to smell strongly of ammonia. I have used moss for years, summer and winter, and have never known It do any harm. Horses pick their spilt oats out of it, and possibly chew PEAT MOSS 107 it sometimes. I have read that abroad it is occasionally mixed with cattle foods. I think it gives healthy pressure on the sole of the foot. Of course the feet should be carefully picked out, but even if this is not done, the moss can hardly be worse for the feet of the ponies than their own droppings off straw. A thin sprinkling of moss should be used so that grooms can quickly see droppings and remove them. The thick layers seen in many cart and job stables become simply hotbeds. 1 like cork pavement best, with an inch or so of moss. My friend, Mr. Suart, has used it without any bedding. It washes, it is not slippery, and does not give horses rheumatism. Grey ponies (I have five) do not get yellow- on moss as they do on straw. Grooms rarely like moss at first, for it looks untidy in stalls, unless there is a billet of wood to keep it in place as there should be, and besides it sticks to damp blacked or varnished boots. My stud-groom, who has been twenty years in my service, approves of it. If moss smells sour when a bale is first opened, it should be exposed to the air. I never leave stalls bare swept during the day as many advise ; for some horses will then refrain from staling on them. I have not taken any special trouble about buying forage, so I quote ordinary retail prices. At Edinburo-h I o-ot excellent Russian oats at 17s. 6d. per 336 lbs. My ponies, which were of I08 THE POLO rONY various nationalities, wintered on two feeds of I J lbs. each with roots at midday, and they played on three 3 lb. feeds. At the end of a polo season I found food and bedding had cost 7s. a week each pony (is. a day), and the winter keep came to 5s. per week. At Edinburoh I could o'et extra stablinor for a trifle, but in London even cabmen have to pay 3s. 6d. per week for a stall. During the season, the charge for members' ponies in Hurlingham club-stables is £1 per week, with some extras for linseed, &c. ; and at Ranelagh, £\ per week. In both cases, owners have to find grooms. There is stabling, which is always booked long before hand, for 120 ponies at Hurlingham, and for 70 at Ranelagh, besides some accommodation for the ponies of visiting tournament teams. Outside the grounds 25s. a week is a common charge. Further away, at Messrs. Savigears, of Earl's Court Riding School, £\ per week was charged. Near Hurlingham, strappers who are fairly reliable under a stud oroom can be eno-ao-ed tem- porarily for about £\ per week. Needless to say, first class men who can keep a place in which they get allowances for stable clothes, lodging, &c., are paid considerably more. I like boxes and hate to see ponies racked up. I believe in having water always before them, but not one groom in a hundred will do this except under compulsion. BOOTS AND BANDAGES IO9 Slow exercise on macadam roads is o'ood ore- paration for ponies' legs ; but after galloping- work begins, exercise on grass is best. Ponies which play three times a week will require no fast work, and an hour, to an hour and a half a day quiet exercise will be about enouo-h for them. Lono-er exercise will be wanted if they miss play. High- couraged ponies require exercise the morning of a match, and all are better of having a little distance to walk to the polo ground. Ponies should always be played in boots or bandages, of which the latter require specially careful adjust- ment or thev mav come loose and cause an acci- dent. Broad bandages — if cut half-length — are better than narrow ones, and should have the tapes tied in double knots (not bows) on the outside of the leg. Boots fitted with straps and buckles, and having projecting felt to guard the fetlock joint, give good protection, and are easily applied by any groom. The latest Cirencester variety (see in fig. 23) has elastic instead of leather legs. After a game, the pony is at once scraped ; dry or moist sponged (he should never be washed over with water as is often done) ; and rubbed with a leather, and finally with a duster. The mouth should be sponged out, and a little water out of a bottle will do no harm and is refresh- ing. A pony's feet should be washed, and the nose, eyes, dock, and sheath sponged out, but no other parts touched with water. Some grooms I lO THE POLO PONY abuse ponies badly by hurrying them home on hard roads, hanging about public houses, &c. Most ponies require bandages at night after play. Rock salt is o-ood in a stable. Boxes like those at Hurlingham where a pony can get his head out at half-doors into open air must be good for health. We should be careful about shoeing. When looking round our ponies, we should lift up their hind feet as well as their fore, and notice if the bevellino- of the iiiside of the toe has worn sharp. This part of the shoe often becomes like a hacked razor and causes serious over-reaches. It is very annoying to have a valuable pony laid up, perhaps before an important match, simply by carelessness on the part of the grooms and ourselves. Few servants understand how over-reaches are done, and will hardly believe that the injury is oftenest inflicted by the back and not the front of the toe of the shoe. (Read up "over-reaches" in '' Veterinary Notes for Horse- Owners,'' by Captain Hayes.) WORK DONE BY POLO PONIES. The " poor ponies " at times come in for an amount of feminine sympathy of which the aggra- vating little rascals are rarely deserving. Their work is not nearly as hard as it appears. The seemingly constant galloping, twisting, wheeling, &c., is in truth well distributed over the eight Fig. 20. — Mr. W. J. JONESS Bay Mare, Housemaid. (Ridden by Mr. E. D. Miller in Open Champion Cup, 1897.) E. Gordon, Putney, S.W.] Fig. 21.— Major FENWICK'S Black Bella. (Played by Captain Renton in Champion Cup, 1897. [To face page no. WORK DONE BY PONIES I 1 T players, each of whom has his moments of rest when he is practically a looker-on ; and, after all, each period of a game only lasts for ten minutes. High class polo ponies rarely do any work out of the polo season, so, excepting from three to five months in the year, they have holidays for the remainder of the time. The London season lasts a short three months. A few provincial clubs start a month earlier, and some have tour- naments or practice games for two months later. Very few men play more than four months in the year. Country grounds are open on an average three days a week, which is an allowance that is too often cut down considerably by wet weather. '' Duty," social engagements, race meetings, cricket, shooting and amusements of various sorts, constantly keep players away. Match games, in which only a few are engaged, also interfere with general play. Even supposing men are present, they are hardly likely to get three twenties in an afternoon, for say three ponies, or even two twenties for two ponies. Besides, men often have more than three ponies ready to play. On London grounds three twenties would mean an earlier arrival and (with long intervals) a later departure than most men care for. At most, each pony would have two ten-minutes games three times a week, which would give them four days' rest. The ponies are fed like racers and conditioned like hunters. On watered grounds T I 2 THE POLO PONY they can be used until they have reached ex- treme old age, and when their legs would not stand hard road riding. Compare this with the long" severe days of hunters, or the labours of trappers ! Fortunate, indeed, is the pony that either dies before his polo days are ended — if the shafts of the tradesman's cart are ready to receive him — or has the good fortune to become a favoured pensioner. 113 CHAPTER VI. RIDING AND SCHOOLING. Horsemanship on the Polo Ground— Schooling a Polo Pony — Ponies in Harness. The popular idea that polo players are all superb horsemen, only a little short of Centaurs, is very far from the truth. Skill in ridino- is onlv one of the several requirements necessary to make a successful player. Head for the tactics of the game joined to resource, energy, coolness, unselfish- ness, and fair command of the ball count for so much, that if these are present a moderate amount of horsemanship will answer the purpose. In saying this I do not speak only of the average player but of men w^ho can hold their own in crack teams. Several of our very best players are only brilliant on perfect and easily handled ponies. I have known men in some successful Recrimental teams, who were heart-breaks to their clubs because their heavy hands quickly spoilt every good pony purchased for them. Even among horse-breakers, hunt servants and other professionals, there are few good all-round horse- 8 114 RIDING AND SCHOOLING men. Practice or opportunity of learning is usually wanting. One man can ricle elegantly and is able to give a horse mouth and manners, but is useless across a country. Another can sit any fractious animal and can cram him along to the front with hounds, but has no idea of humouring, and no fineness of hand to manage a sensitive light- mouthed youngster. No doubt a man who is good to hounds is likely to ride a pony well at polo, but this does not follow as a matter of course, and he may require a considerable amount of practice before he acquires the art. I have seen some brilliant cross-country men make a very poor first appearance as horsemen on the polo ground. Some never "catch on" at all. That polo is useful for improving one's riding i£oes without savino^ but it would be an exao-o-era- tion to assert that it is the best school of horse- manship — a term which I think might be more suitably applied to riding to hounds in a cramped, undulating country, with frequent changes of mounts. Mr. John Watson is always regarded as a model rider to hounds and at polo. I have never seen him schooling, but in the game I consider him perfect. He gets every ounce out of a pony, is a very difficult man for a rider-out to tackle, and when hustled can ride with both hands (using the whip if necessary) till the ball is under his foot, and then at the last moment by a sleight-of-hand-like movement he can change MOUNTING 115 the Stick from left to right, replace the whip and off-rein, square his pony, and hit his back-hander to where he likes. Most men would make a dreadful muddle of such an attempt. Mr. Buck- master is credited with the ability to play ponies most other men would consider very awkward animals. Major Rimington is an excellent horse- man. Mr. Neil Haig, perhaps the heaviest first- class player, is wonderfully quick at getting up speed on a pony. Captain MacLaren on his handy ponies is a rare judge of pace. Mr. ''Jack" Drybrough is powerful on a horse alike hunting and at polo, is an excellent schooler, and anything he cannot make would hardly be worth another man's trying. The following hints may be useful to begin- ners : — When mounting a fretful pony — and some of the little beggars can be very troublesome — bridge his withers with the spare fingers of the left hand, w^hich is better than hano-inor on to the neck-strap of a martingale. When first hog- maning a young pony it is a good plan to leave a mounting-lock, which can be retained until his education has advanced a bit. I dislike grooms attempting to hold restless ponies by the reins, which I prefer to have free for my own handling. A groom, while standing in front of a pony, may lay a hand over his nose and in special cases hold him by the cheek of the bridle, but anything else is apt to cause rearing. Shortening one rein is Il6 RIDING AND SCHOOLING useful, the off-side by preference, as then the pony moving hi a circle will bring the stirrup nearer to the man who is about to mount. Of course I would stand opposite the shoulder, safe out of the reach of cow-kicks, and would shorten the near rein of a dangerous horse, preferring his head to his heels. Mountino- In a stall Is a grood plan, but one should be careful that there Is plenty of head-room. Western Americans have a way of grasping by the left hand the cheek of the head- stall toofether with the rein near the bit which seems to work well. I advise holding the polo stick In the left hand, and close up to the head, because If one lets it project a foot or so, one may easily get a blow on the face should the pony move away. Passing It over the pony's back in the right hand may cause alarm, and it Is then in the way of quickly grasping and manipulating the reins. Instead of catching hold of the cantle of the saddle with the rio-ht hand, I advise reachino- over the waist of the saddle and gripping the "belly" near the skirt. When riding a troublesome pony it Is well to move away at once and not to delay by fiddling with stirrups, &c. If the pony " fools," his head should be pulled round sharp. If we have a strong leg-grip we can throw a pony first to one side and then to another so that he has to think of keeping his own balance instead of disturbino- ours. LENGTH OF STIRRUPS II7 When dismounting- I prefer to have both feet free out of the stirrups before leaving the saddle. Vaulting from the back of one pony to that of another may look pretty, but any unexpected movement, or the catch of a spur on a saddle may cause a nasty fall. As regards seat, I can only say that men ride in all styles. Some first-class players swear by long stirrups, others by short. To listen to many you would Infer that they Imagined no man could ride at all except by the method they fancied. There is some truth In the statement that we ride our saddles as much as our horses. No doubt different conformations require different seats. Besides, we hold on by a variety of pressures directed Inward, backward, forward, &c., and can arrive at the same results by different means. I use the same length of stirrup for all kinds of riding, polo, hacking, hunting, &c. If my length feels uncomfortable I alter my leathers, no matter whether they remain pairs or not, or whether they may be longer or shorter than I generally use. Different ponies may require different lengths even when we use the same saddle and leathers. Provided the seat gives the Idea of strength, I prefer to see a man ride long rather than short ; for the rider then gets better Into the middle of his saddle, and has more freedom for turning to the right or left for back-hand draws or nearside strokes, &c. Men Il8 RIDING AND SCHOOLING who ride short and sit far back are heavy on their ponies' loins, and are often slow starters, as they have first to lean forward to ease their ponies. I think the majority of good players use the long- style, though some first-class men ride short, and several have at times rather a monkey-on-a-stick appearance. At the end of this book (fig. 105) there is a clever caricature in which the artist has given the idea of such a powerful leg grip, that if the rider were lifted into the air the pony would have to go up with him, as the embrace round its body is so strong. A grip like this gives a player power to hit hard in all directions, no matter how he may be leanino- out of his saddle. I do not set special importance on how one fingers the reins. Many soldier players adopt the style of having a finger between each rein with the slack coming up between thumb and forefinger. Habit and the ability to shorten quickly by '' keel- hauling " justifies the style. Two fingers of the right or stick hand suffice to give an extra pull to the off-side. Major Rimington, after a near- side stroke, sometimes gives a curious pull with his right elbow. Perhaps the majority of players cross the reins over the palm of the hand (as shown in Captain Hayes's book, Riding on the Flat and across Country), which gives a strong right or left pressure by turns of the wrist, and permits of the off-rein being easily taken out or replaced by the Speight, Rugby.] Fig. 22.— Mr. W. J, DRYBROUGH S Amazon. (Played in the Open Champion Cup, 1897.) Speight, Rugby.] VTo face page iiS. Fig. 23.— iVlr. W. J. DRYBROUGH'S Pretty Girl. (Played in the Open Champion Cup, 1897.) HANDLING THE REINS II9 right hand. Shortening is not so quickly done by this method, which is quick enough for all practical purposes. Some men place a finger between snaffle and curb reins, keeping those of the snaffle generally outermost ; but all this is a mere matter of habit. I admire a rider who can control a horse while keeping the reins long, which is a rather rare accomplishment. Such a rider gets special freedom in his saddle, can keep a pony's mouth fresh, and can recover a stumbler without risk of being pulled over its head. A pony's mouth should not be interfered with at the moment of hitting the ball, when it is well to rest the hand on his withers. It is better to stop and turn the pony by repeated pulls and slack-offs than by one dead heavy hang- on to the bit. At other times one should ride with as slack reins as possible ; for keeping a continued tioht hold of the reins soon ruins the animal's mouth. We should always give a pony rein-room when turning, so that he may lower his head and stretch his feet out to push against the ground. Ponies do not pivot on fixed hind legs ; they must lift one or they would twist them together. - Occasionally you will see a pony jump both hind legs off the ground, nearly pivoting on his fore ones. A pony shying or wheeling from fear always lowers his nose towards the object frightening him and pushes himself round with his forelegs as a man would push- off with his arms. Here, good shoulders are I20 Rir3ING AND SCHOOLING useful. The weight of a man on the animal's back makes this fore-leverage the more necessary. Many players never give their ponies rein-room to turn in ; in fact, I have seen more than one man pull his pony over backwards on slippery ground. Leg indications and leg pressure when turning should always be used. If one was mounted on a wooden horse which was placed on a vertical pivot through the centre of the saddle, one could turn it to the right by pressing the leg behind the rioht o-irth or before the left one, and vice versa. With the live animal we act in much the same way by simultaneously drawing back one leg and pressing forward the inside of the calf of the other lea-. I do not believe in the old riding school idea of toes turned in and point of knee close to saddle. On the contrary, the legs should hang easily, and when necessary should press with those parts which are in contact with the saddle. Instead of rising up high in the saddle and stirrups when hitting, as many do, I think it is better to slacken the knees and slide into the centre of the saddle, while drawing the heels back and down to lower the angle of the knee, and to grip only as the stick hits the ball. When we wish our pony to go fast we should not throw our hands forward, and so let the reins hang in loops, and should not work our arms like pump-handles, or dance in the saddle as if we were trying to go leap-frog over the pony's head, SITTING WELL DOWN 12 1 for we cannot get there before the pony. On the contrary, we should sit down in the saddle, should catch him between our legs and "drive him on before us." The feelinof should be as if we were pushing something forward with our knees, and as if our sitting bones were pressing down against the seat of the saddle, and not rising off it. When approaching the ball it is not necessary to point the stick at it while look- ing along it as if sighting a rifle. If we have to kick the pony in the ribs to send him along, we ought not at the same time to job his mouth and hold him tight back as many duffers do, but should give him room to gallop. We should bear in mind that the jockey give-and-take motion is not a series of vicious tugs and jobs of the mouth as many seem to think, but is a steady feeling of the mouth to encourage the horse to collect his forces, and then a quick slacken-off to allow of a long stride forward, a repetition of which gives an appearance that is often mis- understood. A pony should never be severely punished in public, for such a performance dis- gusts spectators, who are quick to see that the player is more often in fault than the pony, and that the use of the whip is generally an exhibition of bad temper. Sharp spurs should never be used, and it is advisable to dispense even with dummy ones if possible. Spurs are no doubt requisite with some ponies, but they fret others. 122 RIDING AND SCHOOLING and many, mares especially, will not gallop kindly with a rider who wears them. SCHOOLING A POLO PONY. As the subject of horse-breaking is too large a one to be more than briefly touched upon here, I shall content myself with giving a few hints as to the more special exercises likely to turn an ordinary saddle pony into an animal suitable for polo. Even a made polo pony newly purchased will be all the better for ooino- throucrh the ex- ercises I am about to describe, because they will accustom the pony to the owner's style of hand- lincx and ridino- and will o^ive the owner a oood knowledoe of how the animal behaves — for there is every likelihood that the pony has originally been trained after a rather haphazard fashion. In the case of a made pony it is best to continue the use of the bit to which he has been accus- tomed. A big easy snaffle, with or without a joint, will do for the first ride on a young pony. 1 like to have two reins, a plain and a running one. If the pony gets his head too high we may use a standing- martinoale on a broad nose-band. I dislike a pony that carries his bit much higher than his withers, but as many good horsemen give their ponies much more liberty of head than this, I leave my readers to settle this point for themselves. I have trained ponies by various exercises, the best of which are as follows : — BENDING J 23 On a level piece of grass-land drive seven posts into the ground placing them in a straight line and about 8 yards apart. The positions of the flao-s arranoed for a bendino--race will answer admirably. Walk the pony up alongside of the first post, turn him quietly round about it to the right, proceed to the next and turn him round to the left, and so on, turning to both hands alternately. Suppose a circle w^ere described round the post with a yard radius, the pony should follow that course. Both hands should be on the reins, which should be kept very long and held lightly. The rein on the side to which the turn is made should be pulled with little nibbling touches, and the hand lowered and brought back to the outside of the knee, and the other hand raised about 6 inches or more and brouo-ht over the pony's withers to the opposite side so that the reins may press against the neck. These reins, w^hich are applied to the neck, should not pull the mouth ; on the contrary, the hand should go forward to give length of rein to permit the pony to turn his head freely to the other side. The pony, when properly in hand, should carry his head so that his face is about perpendicular to the oTfound, and he should bend his neck in the direction he moves to, so that his whole body appears on a curve. If a whip be carried it should be applied gently to the ribs of the side to which the turn is made, or to the opposite 124 RIDING AND SCHOOLING shoulder. It is well to teach the pony both Indi- cations, with special attention to leg pressure. No spurs should be worn, either rowelless or sharp. The leg of the side to which the turn is made should be drawn well back and the side of the foot should be pressed against the pony's ribs. At first he may resent the touch of the foot or whip, but when he finds that it is not a punishment, he will quickly recognise it as merely an indication of direction. The opposite leg should hang down quietly by the girths, ready to give a corrective arresting pressure should the pony throw his quarters too far round. I strongly advise the use of the leg indication, even though the pony will turn without it. As a habit, it is most valuable to a rider, and in actual play w^ill, in combination with neck touch, get a quicker response from the pony than by means of mere bit pressure, with- out irritatino- the animal's mouth or crossino- his temper. In the case of an old pony, it may be necessary to exert authority to make him obey quickly, but a young and green one should be treated with the utmost care and patience. The pony will probably begin by waddling round the post in a ridiculously irregular way ; at one moment too wide out, at another too near to it. He may resent the touch of the bit, throw up his head or turn it sulkily away In the opposite direction. We should, however, be very gentle with him, and should ACCUSTOMING PONY TO THE STICK 1 25 encourage him to walk quietly with long loose reins. If he is very fretful we should not let him know that he is doing anything special, and should lead him to suppose that he is merely having walking exercise, and that he is making the turns as a matter of course. We should not exact too correct turns, and may hum a tune and go on quietly as if the affair in hand was of no concern to us. When the posts have been done backwards and forwards, we may walk on fifty yards or so, and then do the seven once ao-ain before takinof a lono'er turn round the field. Havino- made twenty turns we may repeat this, say, four times more, with promenades between, so as to give the pony a morning lesson of a hundred turns, which lesson may be repeated daily or oftener as we may see fit. When walking round the park we may give the pony a lesson with the stick. As a rule I have found that a young pony can be accustomed to the quiet swinorinsT of a stick on his off-side, while walking a mile or two from his stable to the polo ground. The stick should be moved verv o-entlv so as not to cause any alarm, and his attention should not be called to it bv tio-htenino- the reins or bv makino- any other preparation. As little notice as possible should be taken of any fear he shows. The first move- ments should consist of short pendulum-like swings behind the eirths and with the head of the stick 126 RIDING AND SCHOOLING pushed outward, so as not to have it come near his forelegs or head, and the ground may be gently tapped or scratched with it until he shows no fear of the sound. His shoulder and forearms may be lightly touched or rubbed with the head of the stick (''gentled") until he permits the con- tact without resentment. During the exercise in the field the stick may be changed to the left hand and the same motions gone through. The stick should not be passed over his body, that is, held in the right hand for nearside motions, till he is thoroughly steady to the left hand swing. It is w^ell to abstain from usinor a wrist thoncr in these exercises, so as to be able to drop the stick and handle the reins with both hands at any moment. A pony frightened by a stick left swinging by a wrist thonof over his near side, mio-ht rear dano-er- ously, bolt into a fence, or commit some other act which might require months of work to efiface from his memory. We should teach the pony not to fear the rake-like drawing of the stick in front of his forelegs, and should be careful that he does not throw up his head and strike us in the face as we lean forward. We may also accustom him to the touch of the cane on his quarters, so that he may not afterwards make a plunging bolt when it happens accidentally. The reason of the first lesson will be explained by the second one, for which polo balls are sub- Fig. 24.— SCHOOLING ON SEVERE TACKLE. The AUTHOR, on Concha. \To face page 126. Fig. 25. iVIr. W^ K. THORN with three-abreast of American Ponies. (See page 13S.) TURNING 127 stituted for posts, but in the same positions. We should ride with the reins In the left hand, and should carry a polo stick in the right hand, which should touch the reins only when absolutely necessary. The circles should be made round the balls in exactly the same manner as round the posts, namely, at a walk and with loose reins, which had best be crossed in the palm. For right hand turns we may further take the right reins between the extended thumb and first finger w^hen necessary for mouth touches ; and when turning to the left, we may feel that rein by turns of the wrist. A made polo pony will probably turn better round the balls than round the posts, but a young one missing the posts to guide him may be more awkward. As we move round the balls we may make little passes over them with the head of the polo stick, without touching them, as if we were trying to hit gentle back-handers. This is a most useful exercise, as It teaches the movements necessary for hitting back-handers In all directions. The intervals between repetitions of this exercise may be usefully employed in giving the first lesson with stick and ball, which had best be a walking one ; for many ponies are spoilt or their education greatly delayed by attempting too much at this stage of their Instruction. For this lesson a level close-cut piece of turf, say 50 yards to a 100 yards square is required. 1 have schooled on old ash tennis courts, level seashores and other kinds of 128 RIDING AND SCHOOLING eround, but eood turf Is much the best. Practis- Ing on rough ground such as cow parks, Is a sure way to ruin not only one's pony but also one's own style of hitting ; because, to make a ball travel in rough grass, one has to press and dig below it in a way certain to spoil freedom of swing, and sooner or later the ball will spring up against the pony's forelegs or In his face, and will thus frighten him so much that it may take weeks to reassure him. But later on, practice on a rough polo ground will be of no serious detriment. To begin, we may lay a ball near the margin of the ground, walk the pony quietly past it, and when it is rather behind the girths, we meet it by bringing forward the head of the drawn back stick with a short pendulum swing of only a yard or so, and tap the ball away at an angle of about 45', so gently that there will be only a trifling noise of contact and a roll of only about 5 or 6 yards. A nervous pony, on hear- ing the sound of the tap and seeing the move- ment of the white ball, may give a slight start, but finding that the ball moves away from him, that the stick does not come near his fore-hand, and that his mouth is not Interfered with, he is not likely to pay much attention. We then ride him towards the ball, and repeat these short taps till he takes no notice. If we require to put the right hand on the reins, we should be careful not to bring the stick forward so quickly as to frighten MAKING PONY STEADY 1 29 our mount. This method of guiding- the pony always towards the ball and towards the off-side, which is generally the stiffer of the two, is excellent schooling. As the pony gains confidence, we may in- crease the strength of the stroke and the size of the circle, always taking care to hit away from the pony. Afterwards, instead of moving the stick backwards for a pendulum tap, we may bring it forward, raise it, describe a backward arc and make the stroke as if with a full swing, but gently as before. When the pony shows no fear of the stick, we may hit straighter forward and gradually nearer to his forelegs till eventually we hit across his course, by doing which we will be obliged to follow the ball tow^ards the left. When the pony has learned this play on the off-side, we shall have to teach him all over again on the near-side. At first it is best to shift the stick to the left hand, as few ponies will stand it being crossed over from the off-side. In fact, a player who is not good at near-side strokes is more likely to mar than to make a pony. The strokes I have described are as good practice for the player as for the pony. I may here direct the attention of my readers to the remarks on " Command of the Ball " (page H3)' We may now vary our practice by hitting short back-handers, to do which it is well to get the pony on the turn before hitting, as he is then 9 130 RIDING AND SCHOOLING less likely to swerve off. He will quickly learn the meaninof of the down stroke and will turn of his own accord. We should be careful not to sicken him with too much of any one exercise. The forward taps I have recommended are the "placing" strokes used by players to get better position for harder forward hitting, and when hit hard they are termed " cuts " (out) and " draws " (in). We will improve our play as regards both direction and strength by often practising these exercises. When satisfied with the steadiness of the pony at a walk, we may let him "jog," i.e., trot so that we do not require to rise in the saddle, and later on, we may let him canter slowly. In fact, the slower the canter, the better for both player and pony. With rare exceptions, it is best to do all the galloping practice at a canter of 6 or 7 miles an hour. We should remember to keep the lightest possible hold of the bit, and always to use leg indications when bending the pony. At the moment of hitting forward, the reins should always be eased slightly to prevent jar to the mouth, although the habit of letting the reins loose to such an absurd extent as to hang in loops as some men do, should be avoided. A sufficient amount of liberty to the mouth will be obtained by moving forward the left hand through the few inches that will permit it to touch the pony's withers or neck. In actual play on badly broken MAKING PONY STEADY I3I or too high spirited ponies, any undue tightness when nearing the ball will probably make the animal plunge, while slackening will at worst only let him increase his speed like a chaser at a water jump ; the latter being the lesser of the two evils. When schooling, we should not let the pony put on speed after the ball has just been hit ; on the contrary he should be kept at one pace or he may grow hot tempered. After he has been well schooled, we can put on as much pace as we like. If the pony is inclined to rush as the stick is being raised to hit, we may get him out of this trick by, from time to time, swinging the stick as we canter along when not near the ball, and occasionally hitting at an imaginary ball, a daisy, or other object as we pass. We should avoid making noisy swish- ing strokes, and giving so much movement to the body or reins as would be likely to excite the pony. At first, we should not lean far over to awkward shots, and should not hit at balls too near or under him. When hittinor even at a walk it is a crood plan to close the legs against the pony's sides ; not only because at faster paces we will afterwards require that grip to give steadiness and strength, but also to accustom him to the movement, which, although it is not meant as an indication, might easily be regarded by the pony as an incentive to speed. As a pony should change his legs correcdy when he is bent from side to side ; it is well to 132 RIDING AND SCHOOLING understand the proper method of making- him do so. A very good lesson can be given over the Bending-Racecourse as follows : — Having placed seven slim flag-sticks in a line eight yards apart, we start at a canter towards the first, from, say, a distance of twenty yards ; and keep the first stick on the right, the second on the left, and so on as we canter through. In a race the competitors turn round the end flag ; but this need not be done in practice. We should go at the slowest possible canter, with the reins lengthened out in both hands and held low touching the sides of the pony's withers, and we should sit well down in the saddle and lean rather far back. As we approach the first flag we should steady the pony by a slight pull, then, when almost at the flag, we should lower the rio-ht hand, raise the left for neck touch, and give the pony a slight swing with the body to- wards the post, so that he goes towards it and just misses it. Having slowed him down, we should then ease the reins till almost at the next, and so on. Instead of raising the hands high as many men do, we should keep them down. After passing the last post we should slow dow^n the pony gently, saying " steady, steady," and when he has gone about fifty yards, we should stop him short with one or two distinct pulls, saying "whoa!" We may then wheel him, make REINING BACK. 1 33 him walk on, press with the legs and say '' gallop " (or better still hiss the "s" of "start") to teach him to start the gallop from the halt or walk. Fast galloping with the ball is best done away from the stable or gate end of the field, as the pony will pull up kindlier. A lesson in reining back, which in many cases is very trying to the temper of the rider and his mount, should also be given to every polo pony. We should never get angry, no matter how the pony sulks and stiffens his jaws and neck against the reins, but we should be patient and should particularly guard against his plunging forward, the performance of which action might lead him to suppose that he was the master. In bad cases, a lesson in reining back might be given on foot or with driving reins. When mounted, a slight pressure of the legs will indicate that an effort is about to be called for, while at the same time the reins should be tio^htened just enoueh to prevent forward motion. The leg grip should then be loosened and a pull taken with both reins, more strength being put on the rein of the side on which the pony has a leg most advanced (fore or hind). If he moves the leg back, he should be patted and made much of. Having advanced a few yards, we may pull the pony up and again repeat the reining back. If he takes several steps back, we may stop him by tightening the leg grip, slackening the reins 134 RIDING AND SCHOOLING and saying '' whoa ! " To move him forward, we tighten the legs and reins, and having loosened the reins, we press the legs and say "go on!" The pony will probably turn as he backs and give some trouble at first ; but the attainment of a correct rein-back will be merely a matter of patience and good handling. When cantering about, with or without the ball, we can bend to right or left in the open, that is, without flag guides ; canter in circles large and small ; describe figures of eight, and perform similar exercises. In a show the judges of a polo pony class are sure to put the pony throuo-h some of these exercises as a test of handiness. When trying a pony for purchase it Is well for the intending buyer to do the same thing. Four flag-sticks placed to mark corners of a square having twenty-yard sides will be found useful for trotting and cantering round. Any two of these will answer for centres for figures of eight, and they may be gradually brouofht closer. By this time the pony will have learned all that he can be taught out of company. For his further instruction we place two parallel rows of posts, the posts of one row being opposite the respective centres of the spaces of the other row, and Pfet a friend or orroom to ride beside us. Having allowed our companion to turn round the first one of his posts, we ride on a few yards A SCHOOLING GAME 1 35 to turn round ours, and make our next turn while he is passing us and is going on to another, so as to make sure that our pony will leave com- pany, either going forward or remaining behind. Later on we may ride along with our com- panion abreast to a ball, stop, hit back-hand and wheel while our assistant goes on, in order to teach the pony to stop, though the presence of the pony beside him would stimulate him to go on. Having made him all right with one pony, we may get a third pony out, and then a fourth, and pass backwards and forwards between them, circle in and out and round them, and stand still while they do the same to us. After that, all of us may carry sticks, so that the pony may get accustomed to see them waved about and will understand that no harm will come to him. Finally, the pony should be put into a cantering game of at least six players who mean schooling only. In this exercise the riders should not go faster than a practice canter, and should pass the ball to each other with short easy strokes specially intended for school work. It is often difficult to get this practice, but it is almost impossible to make a polo pony without it. When satisfied with the pony's performance, we may take him into a regular game, choosing the very slowest "duffer's" game we can obtain. Every pony should have a lesson in "riding-out" another pony. A good plan is to put two pairs of I ^6 RIDING AND SCHOOLING J single harness reins on two ponies, crossing the inner reins, and drive them before us, walking- after them and carrying a whip with which to quietly encourage them. Each pony's outside rein may be passed through a ring fastened low down on rollers or pads, so that we have a rein pressing against the outside of each pony's quarters to keep them from turning out from each other. We should drive into corners so as to necessitate turning at right angles, and should pull so close in that the pony on the outside of the turn has to push his neighbour away to get round. This lesson should be followed by a similar one mounted, and if a pony shows reluctance to push against the pony ridden alongside of him, we should get a groom out on a third pony and make him bump the shirking pony towards the other. Exercises in moving on two courses, called shoulder-in, traversing, &c., are most valuable, but can be taught only by skilful riders. This subject is too elaborate to be treated of here. Having given these hints as to how a polo pony ought to be schooled, it may be useful to give a caricatured example of what should not be done, which will probably indicate the kind of preliminary education many polo ponies have received. Z buys a pony which he intends schooling quietly, hoping in a few weeks to make him handy enough to play, but as rain prevents him beginning privately on the day he HOW NOT TO DO IT I37 intended, the groom brings the pony down next day to the polo ground and Z gets on before the others arrive. He is then surprised that his new purchase is awkward, and to make him go better he jobs the pony's mouth and kicks him in the ribs, but finds that this treatment makes matters still worse. When he pulls the curb rein to the right the pony crosses his jaws, turns his head away, and plunges to the left. Calling his mount a sulky brute, he arms himself with a whip, and forces the pony to come round, though in the worst of form. Having tried these experiments for a few times, he calls for a polo stick, at the first swing of which the pony, expecting more whip, frets and plunges with increased excitability. After a few minutes of this awkward work, he shouts "chuck us a ball." When he tries to hit it, the pony edges so far away that he can only rake in the ball, and consequently causes both it and the stick to hit the pony on the forelegs. If our friend has great patience he will probably continue this erratic style of schooling for a day or two, and if asked to make "an eighth" when he has nothing but the green one to ride, he will most likely reply : " I've nothing but this confounded, fretting, shying brute, but he must be tried some day, so I'll play." He does try. His mount will not face the other ponies and the waving of the sticks. Z loses his temper, and at last brings his polo stick into sharp contact 138 RIDING AND SCHOOLING with his pony, which, thereupon, promptly bolts out of the field with him. He determines to sell the *' useless stupid brute," and goes about saying that he was swindled by the man who sold him the animal as a likely polo pony. PONIES IN HARNESS. Mr. Thorn writes to me, *' I have tried many different ways of wintering, and find that ponies driven in light vehicles by the person who in- tended playing them has produced the best results." Three of the four ponies in the four-in-hand illustra- tion (fig. 26) appear to have been special favourites of his. and were " first-class as to speed, manners, and mouth." He regards ''mouth" as equivalent to '' brains," for by it we chiefly judge of the animal's intelligence. Three abreast in a four-wheeler (fig. 25), Mr. Thorn calls " the most perfect way of harnessing polo ponies, because, being above them, the driver has thorough control. Placing the most timid of the three in the middle gives him food for reflection, as he is held straight and, so to speak, is ridden off by the outside pony against whom his stupid fears may cause him to shy. The poles being held up, there is no weight on the ponies' necks, and the break keeps the trap back ofT them going down hill." He describes the plan of putting a pair in a two- wheeled trap (curricle fashion) as " simply DRIVING THREE ABREAST 139 perfection, as the driver can make the ponies gallop, or walk, or trot at choice, and the trap is so balanced that he does not feel any change of pace." As I have ridden many times in my friend's cart I can testify to its delightfully smooth running. He adds, '' I feel certain that if men would drive their ponies, they would avoid many disagreeable moments on the polo field, as the ponies in harness are taught to obey, and become accustomed to the voice. For timid ponies I have found the straight American whip most useful and have prevented dangerous shying by stroking them on the quarters quietly and saying a word of encouragement. The three abreast plan gives company and consequently confidence to the ponies, and the driver always has two to hold an unruly one straio'ht." He orlves the followino- hints as a o-ulde to Intendino- drivers of three abreast. " The reins are easily arranged by taking an ordinary pair of four-in-hand wheel-reins and buckling another longer pair of couplings higher up on the hand pieces than the buckle of the pair reins. Thus the three off-side o-q to the off-sides of three bits, and the near side to the three on near side. We thus have as much control as in a pair, and simply must account for more width. I advise whififie- trees in place of roller bolts on splinter bar, as they save shocks to shoulders when galloping up hills, &c." He gives the following measurements : — Splinter- 140 RIDING AND SCHOOLING bar 8 ft. 8 In., width between poles 2 ft. 3 in. ; length of each whiffle-tree 2 ft. 8 in. ; distance between whiffle-trees j in. ; and width of all three 8 ft. ij in. When grooms have to drive ponies they should be told to use snaffles, unless they are known to have good hands. Harness does not always make a pony steady and a non-puller. Ponies are queer animals ; some are slugs in harness and mad in saddle. Many will not go into their bits when their heads are from home, but the moment they are turned stableward they try to pull their driver out of the trap. Two people on a two- wheeled trap is enough weight behind a valuable pony. I prefer the traces attached to a swingle- bar. Wheeler in tandem is not a desirable place for one's best match pony. We should not punish our wheeler for edging towards the side of the road when we are going down hill with our leader held strongly back ; for, in this case, the leader is pulling the trap forward with his mouth, through the reins. Tandem with a handy pair of ponies is a delightful drive, for they are smart, light in hand, and take up but little room in manoeuvring. A pair of ponies make excellent leaders for a scratch four in a light trap. We should insist upon having a brake, applied bekmd the wheel on a two-wheeler. Builders are dreadfully pig-headed on this subject. Giving way against my better judgment cost me my first pony, as BRAKE FOR DOG CART I4I he sprained his hock comhig down a steep hill. On receiving my order for a brake to be put on my new cart, the builder said, " Oh, sir, you'll never have a brake. It puts the weight on your pony's back ! " " Exactlv so, that is where I wish to put it ; " I replied. The applying of the brake slightly arrests the cart, and thus allows the pony who has been holding back with all the weight pressed forward on his shoulders, to go up into his collar before the weight of the cart acts on the back-band. Thus, he first feels the downward pressure well back towards the place on which a rider's weiofht would come in a saddle. This weight applied over the pony's centre of gravity is a totally different thing from a heavy forward push, which tries his forelegs and is liable to throw him on his nose. In congested London traffic I slow or stop my pony much more by the brake than by the reins. No hansom is driven in Edinburgh without a brake. If the driver forgets to put it on down hill, the horse soon reminds him by nearly tumb- ling on its head. Instead of pulling up his horse at a door, the Edinburgh cabman applies the brake and stops the horse, in the same manner as London omnibus men stop their pairs. If London hansom drivers were compelled to use brakes, we should not see so many poor horses slipping and falling when slowing and stopping on our greasy streets. I have been told that if 142 RIDING AND SCHOOLING a horse falls, the brake prevents him rising again. All the better ! It may save one having to sit on his head. I have only had a pony fall once in twenty years. He was up like lightning and tried to bolt. If he had not been able to rise, I, lying on my back on the asphalt, would not have had my arm nearly twisted out of its socket hanging on to the reins. I do not believe that any sane man would condemn a brake if he once had the experience of being driven fast down a steep incline with the brake alternately applied and taken off. I notice that the hotel barrow men at Edinburgh use brakes on their two-wheelers when taking luggage down to the Waverly Station. H3 CHAPTER VIL COMMAND OF THE BALL. A POLO player, to be successful, should have at least fair command of the ball, and it is desirable, though not essential, that he should be brilliant. Although the faculty of hard hitting is now far more com- mon among first - class players than formerly, certainty of direction and accuracy of placing reign paramount. Many of our most powerful sloggers would gladly exchange their long hitting for the ability to accurately place and control the ball possessed by Mr. John Watson and Captain Mac- Laren, who are not specially noted for hard hitting. Naturally different men excel at different strokes. For instance, Mr. John Watson is facile princeps at placing and back-handing exactly where he pleases ; and Captain MacLaren, at stealing away with the ball, keeping possession, and zigzagging through the men in front. Dokhul Singh is excep- tionally brilliant at nearside forward strokes, and at shoots at goal, and Captains Renton and Rawlinson at long shots during dashing races down the ground. Captain Rawlinson has a wonderful eye for taking 144 COMMAND OF THE BALL a ball on the hop, on either side of his pony, and even coming towards him, called " volleying," which is the most uncertain of all strokes. Mr. Buckmaster, who is good all round and has a true eye, is a skilled drawer of back-handers across his pony, and a brilliant shooter at goals. Mr. *' Jack" Drybrough, excelling at the nearside forward stroke, is always ready to take the ball in any conceivable position, and in all round play is pro- bably the hardest hitter we have. Wrist power and general physical strength must count for something, as we may see in the hitting of big men like Mr. Neil Haig, Mr.. "Jack" Drybrough, Major Rimington, and others ; but eye, perfection of swing, timing and cleanness of hitting count for quite as much in this respect, as is proved by the fact that comparatively light men like Dokhul Singh, Captain Renton, and Mr. Buckmaster (a middle weight), often hit equally long balls. Among ordinary players, heavy men are generally the hardest hitters in all round play, although skilful light men at times out-drive them in special strokes. Mr. Ansell, the No. 2 of the " Inniskillings," has not the physique of either Mr. Haig or Major Rimington, both of whom belong to the same team, and are two of the hardest hitters in the service ; yet he completely out-drove them in some of his fine runs during the last Regimental Tournament. It is difficult to say what length a well hit ball SHOOTING AT GOAL 1 45 should travel, as the distance greatly depends on the ground, wind, speed of pony, &c. At a local Gymkhana, where each competitor was allowed two tries, Captain Smithson (13th Hussars) won with a little over 90 yards. At Edinburgh I have seen Mr. Nell Halg, and Mr. "Jack" Drybrough, drive from back-line to centre-line, which Is a distance of over 130 yards. When schooling ponies I found that four ordinary clean hits at slow paces would take the ball the length of the Edinburgh 260 yards' ground, which gives an average of 65 yards ; and that three hard and clean-hit strokes would be sufficient. Mr. "Jack" Drybrough once did it In two, and I have often hit It back-hand In four. When hitting out from behind across the 30-yard line, trying to place the ball accurately to a friend, anything beyond 50 yards Is good enough. Accuracy at goal shooting Is a rare accomplish- ment, and even sitting shots (penalties for fouls) are often missed. I once gave a Gymkhana prize for goal hitting, an accomplishment at which I knew I was hopelessly bad ; the conditions being that each man had three tries at 30 yards. Al- though some good players competed, nobody put the ball through more than twice. In fact I won with two goals and a subsidiary. Command of the ball In forward play being my own weak point, I feel diffident about trying to give instruction In It. Still the attempt has to be made, and after all a man may know how a thing 10 146 COMMAND OF THE BALL should be done, even though he himself may only occasionally succeed in accomplishing it. Under "Schooling a Polo Pony" (p. 122), I give some hints to beginners, who I trust will excuse any repetition they may find in my remarks. To begin with, we require a steady pony, a suitable stick, and a square of about 60 yards of good level turf to practise on. Rough ground should be avoided as it will only spoil one's play. As practice alone does not make perfect, it is essential that we work on a correct method ; for adherence to a wrong one will certainly have the disheartening result of making bad worse. Wrist-strokes forward ; off-side. — Starting near the edge of the ground alongside the ball, we should stand so that it is a few inches behind the girths, perpendicular with the point of our shoulder, and sufficiently clear to allow room for the free swing of the stick (see fig. 32, page 163). We "address" our stick to the ball, as a golfer would say, with the head touching the ground behind and quite close to it. In order to run no risk of striking the pony's forelegs, which is a very common and objection- able trick of beginners, we may at first move the ball out at, say, an angle of 20^ We draw back the stick about 3 feet by a bend of the wrist and slight movement of the arm, following the line of the ball extended, as shown in ^g. 2)Z' We bring it back against the ball with sufficient Fig. 27.-Mr W. H. WALKERS Lady Jane. (See page 300.) Fig. 28. — Mr. W. H. WALKERS Nimble. (See page 300.) {To face /•age 146. WRIST STROKES 1 47 Strength to let the head not only strike the ball away, but follow it along the direction line as far as the arm permits without bending forward. We should be very careful not only to re-straighten the wrist, but to bend it as far forward as we previously did back. This low swung pendulum- hit may be termed a wrist-stroke. Men who do not use the wrist in hitting, not only lose a great deal of power from unutilised spring, but may force the ball against the ground by the face of the head meeting it at an angle. I would advise that the ball should not be moved further than about lo yards. We may again walk the pony up to the ball, halt, and repeat the stroke, and should try to work the ball round the ground. The instruction given on the putting-green to golfers, of letting the head of the club when drawn back scrape along the ground, will also apply to these strokes. To this advice may be added the caution of keeping the arm straight so as to prevent topping, and of taking care that the centre of the head travels along the line of direction, in order to avoid heeling or toeing. Having taken a glance at the spot to which we intend hitting the ball, it is well to connect it and the ball by an imaginary line which we should produce to the rear, and having fixed our eyes on the ball, we draw back the head of the stick over the produced line of direction, and return it over 148 COMMAND OF THE BALL that line when knocking the ball away. Taking the eyes off the ball in the act of striking is fatal, and is very easily done unconsciously. We should not merely look at the ball in a vague manner, but should focus our eyes on it as if trying to make out printed matter on its surface. Many men have lazy eyes and never attempt to do this, which is easy enough with a stationary ball, but with a rolling one it is a very different thing. Probably some eyes never acquire the habit. Men who have been accustomed to batting at cricket, or to tennis play, should have a great advantage. One of the chief obstacles to free hitting is the habit of stiffenino- the muscles. The effort of holding a pulling pony will tend to stiffen the whole body and make a man play badly. A tight leg-grip will in most cases cause stiffness above the waist, and will interfere with the freedom of shoulder-turning necessary for hard hitting ; but more than all, gripping the stick tightly during the backward swing (from the unconscious desire to give momentum) is destruc- tive of fine free hitting. In order to acquire a good style, which by prac- tice may be converted into a habit, we should try from the beginning to sit easy in the saddle, to re- lax every muscle during the swing, and to tighten the hand and leg-grip only at the moment the head of the stick is coming into contact with the DRAWING THE BALL 1 49 ball. Dokhul Singh is the most notable exponent of perfectly free movement I have ever seen. Having succeeded with the standing stroke, we may next try walking the pony, in doing which, only practice can teach us the exact moment to prepare to draw the stick back before meeting the ball with it. Next comes a jog-trot, not rising in the saddle, and eventually the slowest possible hand-canter. At first it is best to allow the ball to settle before repeating the stroke, but as con- fidence is gained, we can hit the ball while it is gently on the move. Above all things we should endeavour to hasten slowly. In our attempts to play the ball out at the angle described, we will often have hit it away at laro-er and smaller ano^les. When we feel sure of not hitting the pony on the forelegs, we may tap the ball straight forward parallel with the line of direction of the pony, and afterwards begin to gradually draw it nearer until it crosses that line. The whole secret of giving correct direction lies in making the head of the stick travel along the line of the ball, beginning on the prolongation of the line behind it. This remark applies equally well to playing a ball out from one, or '' cutting " it, as it is called. To draw a ball at right angles across the line of the pony from the first position, we would be obliged to tap it under his girths, which would be an awkward stroke in case of a moving pony, as his legs might 150 COMMAND OF THE BALL Stop the ball. This stroke is risked on rare occasions, but for a right angle draw it is generally best to hit the ball below the pony's neck in front of his forelegs, which is a risky stroke and is difficult to make sure of at speed. It is almost needless to say, that to make this stroke the ball must be far forward. Between these two extreme positions of the ball there are many others which will be best under- stood by a glance at figure ^t,. It will not do to let the stick follow the ball in any of these right angle draws, because in acting thus the pony might get struck. We should therefore play them with a check-stroke or jerk, and instead of sweep- ing away the ball we should bring the stick down with a more or less perpendicular drop and a dig into the turf behind the ball, so that the head of the stick may be stopped by the ground. When a ball is exactly in front of the pony's toes we cannot do the jerk stroke, and will find it very dangerous to use a strong sweeping swing ; for if a player is riding on our left we may easily give him or his pony a very nasty blow ; or if we use a whippy stick, we may cut our own head open. I have seen a player glare all round looking for somebody to swear at for striking him, until it dawned upon him that he had done it himself. Last season I was much amused by overhearing a Paris friend addressing his own reflection in one of the Hurlinoham mirrors. '' Yes," said he. CUTTING A BALL I5I looking at the pretty picture of blood running from a cut behind his own ear, " I've done that three times this season, and I think I'll have to give up under-neck strokes with whippy sticks." Our friends may not always take things so coolly. When cutting a ball out from us, we will find that the first position will not suit, because our pony's quarters will interfere with the stick. We must therefore play it from further back and wider out (see fig. ^fS)- Foi' an extreme cut across the pony's quarters, we must lengthen out the reins so as to allow of freedom to lean back. When we can do these preliminary strokes well, we will have a command of '* placing " the ball which many players of several years' standing- have never acquired, and are then ready to begin practice with a full swing, which should be done by holding the stick close up to the end of the handle. For under-swing placing strokes, some players hold it several inches from the end, by which method they find they get increased com- mand. Full-swing forward stroke ; off-side. — We should begin with the pony at the halt, and instead of addressing the ball with the head of the stick behind it, we should let it lie in front. W^e should lift the stick forward and upward, the arm passing the face. The stick is then thrown out well behind us, and in doing this we should turn round in the saddle with the left shoulder to the 152 COMMAND OF THE BALL front. All this is done with an easy grip and relaxed muscles ; only when the head of the stick gets down past the back turn do we begin to put in power and speed. The faster it now meets the ball the better. The right shoulder again comes square forward ; hand and legs grip tightly ; and the ball is swept away with a straight arm and a forward flexion of the wrist. The head of Fig. 29. — Whole-Circle Forward-Swing (pony standing still). B, Ball. K, Position of player's knee. H, Head of stick. T, Turning point of swing. Strength should be applied approaching B, as shown by thickened line, but is often misapplied between S and T. the stick always travelling along the line of direc- tion of the ball, follows it in finishing out the stroke, while the right shoulder is brought well forward to give liberty. If the arm is straight, the elbow will be close to the side, and the flat of the wrist will be turned slightly outwards. If there were such things as slow preliminary exercises, the cautions would be : ''At ' one,' turn FORWARD SWING 1 53 in your saddle till your shoulders are in line with the direction of the pony, left shoulder forward, and all the muscles easy. At ' two,' raise your stick upward, and describe a backward circle till your arm is fully extended behind you. At * three,' as your stick passes the third-quarter of the circle, grip your pony, tighten your hand, put in speed and power, and sweep the ball away." If we find that our muscles tend to become rigid, we should try to avoid entirely closing our lingers round the handle till the head of the stick has passed the dead-point behind us. Probably six out of every seven men cramp their swing and waste power by putting too much force into the back- throw of the stick (see fig. 29) ; for they have then to check the swing in order to prevent the stick flying out of their hand behind them. We shall find it difficult to turn the shoulders freely, if we sit far back on the saddle. On the contrary, we should get into the centre of it, with the knees down and the feet drawn back. A common fault is what cricketers would call playing with a cross bat, i.e., hitting-in across the line of the ball instead of following its direc- tion. It is painful to see how some duffers hit-in on to their ponies' legs in this awkward fashion, by not throwing the head of the stick back close to the pony's quarters to a spot on the produced line of direction of the ball (see fig. ^^, p. 165). 154 COMMAND OF THE BALL Instead of doing this, they throw the head of the stick out wide and are then obliged to drag it back in a curved line in their attempt to play the ball in the new direction, which movement causes heeling and toeing, or may make the player miss by passing inside (especially with a whippy stick), or hit his pony's legs, &c. The ball is best hit when it is just as close outside one's leg as leaves room for swinging the stick. If it is far out, one is apt to scoop it weakly. We should not, however, risk having it too close to the leg, in which case it may at the last moment turn in under the pony and thus get out of reach. Some men, who are few in number, seem able to make fine strokes, no matter where the ball is. We should not attempt to "lift" the ball out of rough places, for if we try to do so we will be almost sure to flex and shorten the arm, and consequently, only to top the ball. It is not advisable to lean much down with the idea of hitting better under the ball, because the adoption of such a position will probably cause us to dig into the turf considerably behind it. We should never press, but should hit easily, and should bear in mind that if we hit clean, the weight of the stick added to the pace of the pony will drive the ball a long way. Although I have described in detail the movements of the shoulders in hard hitting, I would advise the beginner to content himself at first with swinging quietly. Elliott & Fry, London.] Fig. 30.— Mr. F. J. MACKEY, on his brown Mare, Ladysmaid. (See page 300.) To face page 154. Fig. 31. -Mr. F. J MACKEY'S Chatterbox (Purchased from Mr. John Watson.) POSITION OF BALL 1 55 Position of ball. — Now as to the position of a ball at the moment of hitting. The point of our shoulder may be considered to be the centre of our circle, our arm and stick forming the radius. The ball should be exactly below the centre so that a perpendicular from the point of the shoulder will fall upon It. In quiet sitting-strokes, placing balls and volleying, the centre is nearly stationary. In hard hitting, where the turn of the shoulder Is brought Into play, the centre is movable, and the swino- chano-es from nearly circular, to, let us say, an irregular oval. In the volley and quiet stroke we sit nearly erect in our saddle, so that a perpendicular from the point of our shoulder would fall rather behind the girths. In fast gallops the shoulders are further forward, so the ball should be If anything a little In front of our girths. In many back-hand draws and cuts one leans so far back that a perpendicular would fall far behind the girths. When both pony and ball are moving, we may easily be mistaken as to where the ball will be when the stick reaches It, but that does not matter If we can see when it Is In the best position for our stroke, at which moment we should always remember to ease the pony's mouth, and to keep the hand low on the withers. Back- hand hitting; off-side. — Long before we have arrived at proficiency In all these strokes, we will no doubt have attempted a few simple back-handers, for which we hold the stick some- 156 COMMAND OF THE BALL what differently ; the hand being- brought more round to the front of the handle, with the back of the hand well forward. This manner of holding the handle is best described as a hammer-grip ; for we then hold the stick exactly as we would a hammer, except that, by putting the thumb down the handle instead of round it, we get better power of direction. Here, the rear side of the head represents the hitting face of the hammer. Stand- ing beside the ball, in first position as before, we address it with the head of the stick in front, and we lift the stick forward and upward until the hand is higher than the head, while carefully keeping the stick over the produced line of direction. We now^ hit in much the same fashion as if we were ham- mering a nail, only the head of the stick not being checked by the contact, follows the ball. This is a fairly easy stroke and does not require any pre- paratory turning of the body in the saddle. The next practice is drawing the ball back across the line of our pony, which is the usual stroke for playing a ball away from the front of the goal, and for preventing it being stopped by ponies following us. The nearer a rio-ht ano-le we wish the ball to cross behind us, the further back must we let it be at the moment of hitting. An extreme case would be that of a ball behind the pony's tail, which is a stroke only suited to a man with a long reach and a long stick. In many cases it is an advantage to have the ball well out and wide of us (see SLICING THE BALL 1 57 fig"- 33)' Of course players try to avoid difficult strokes by changing their direction of approach, or by swinging their pony round. Cutting a ball away from us back-hand is an extremely difficult stroke to make with certainty, and should be rarely attempted. As the pony's head and neck w^ould be in the way of the stick, we must let the ball well out ; or the stick may be held shorter and the stroke delivered in the more perpendicular check style. In scrimmages the stick may be extended under the pony's neck and the ball raked back, so to speak. In all strokes, the utmost amount of cut or draw may be given by hitting with the head of the stick sloped across the line of direction of the ball ; but the less that is attempted the better. Players who unintentionally "slice" the ball by playing across the line of direction, give the ball a spin which makes it curve away from its proper course. After practising at stationary balls, we should try our hand at moving ones, after some of which we should ride fast enouQ["h to overtake them before they quite stop rolling. Under ''Schooling a Polo Pony" (page 122), I have alluded to the turning of the pony at the moment of hitting. We should be careful never to lift our hand and stick over our left shoulder, in sword exercise style : above the centre of our head as we bend over to look at the ball, is far enough. One player I remember, invariably hit from his left shoulder, and when he did so, his 158 COMMAND OF THE BALL cunning old pony used to duck its head in a manner that clearly showed that its ears had not always escaped out of danger. Many players when hitting back-handers use a whole-circle swing. They begin by drawing back the head of the stick, and having raised it, they brincr it forward and finish with the hammer- stroke. I never could see the use of this swing and have always disliked it. Among the draw- backs which it possesses, I may mention that while it is being executed, the stick can be easily crooked from behind, or knocked out of the player's hand, who must hold it gingerly with open lingers while makintv the back swinq-. Besides this, the player has to turn round in his saddle, an action which should not be necessary ; the stroke takes much longer to execute than the hammer-stroke, especially if the latter stroke is made with a stick which was carried head up ; and the striker has to make up his mind sooner what he is going to do, and has more difficulty in changing at the last moment should the ball suddenly hop or deviate. Players who use the whole-sw^ing claim that It gives them increased power, which Is an assertion I doubt ; because the strength does not begin to be applied until the stick Is In the forward position of the hammer-stroke. I have never seen a round- swing player make longer strokes than men who use the hammer style. The only possible good I see In it is, that In the case of a draw across the THE PUSH 159 pony's quarters, the swing of the stick may assist the rider in brinorincr back his shoulders. As users of the hammer style I may instance Mr. John Watson, Mr. "Jack" Drybrough and Captain Mac- Laren. Mr. E. D. Miller has, I believe, lately adopted this method in preference to the old round swing-, which is probably of Indian origin. Mr. Buckmaster, I admit, o-enerallv uses the round swing, but his special play is the draw across his pony's quarters, and he sometimes uses the hammer-stroke when other players are within crooking distance. I think Major Rimington, who is good at both, often uses the round swing. I strongly advise beginners to adopt the hammer- stroke. The ''' pushr — Some men are very clever at simply pushing away a ball, so as to put it out of reach of another player's stick, or to get position. This push, though useful and worth practising, can hardly be called a stroke. Back-hand strokes ; near-side. — We have now to consider the strokes on the near-side of the pony, the simplest of which being the back-hander, I will beo'in with it. I remember the time when it was thought at Hurlingham to be a foolish stroke, and I have been reproved for making it. All the same, I continued to employ it, as I found it useful, especially as it was unexpected. Its use is now universal as it is of great importance when an adversary is hustling us on l6o COMMAND OF THE BALL the off-side, and also when we dare not cross the Hne of the ball for fear of fouling .the man in possession. The ball, it is almost needless to say, should never be taken on the near-side when we have the option of right-hand-side play. Though it is not particularly difficult to hit a ball back on the near-side, it is not easy to draw or cut it with certainty of direction for placing. Near-side play, however, protects a player from having his stick crooked by an adversary coming up on the off-side ; and, to a certain extent, from the ill effects of beino- hustled. In this kind of play the chief thing to remember is to bring the right arm well over the pony, and to ride with a long rein, which will allow us to turn the left shoulder as far back as possible. It also lets the right arm come well over, and gives us such a long reach that we can hit the ball when it is behind, in front of, or out wide from our girths. Men who use short reins cannot turn in this manner, and having consequently a cramped reach, must lean forward and down to play on the near side, and can only play balls close in front of the o-irths. Near-side forivard stroke. — Lastly, we have the near-side forward stroke, at which very few men excel. Unfortunately, many who imagine they can play it, or who are fairly good at it, will insist upon risking it when there is no necessity, as, for instance, when by riding a yard or two NEAR-SIDE FORWARD STROKE l6l to the left, they would obtain a right-hand stroke. Needless to say that such men are con- tinually missing and throwing away chances. It is wonderful how rarely it is absolutely necessary to use the near-side forward stroke ; yet at times it comes very useful, especially when we have an adversary on the off-side, or when we want to straighten a ball and there is no time to approach it on the left. This stroke requires special practice, as we do not get it often enough in a game to keep our hand in. Not one player in fifty gives himself sufficient saddle freedom for this stroke. Most men do not put the right arm so far over the pony that the elbow is clear of the withers, as it ouo-ht to be ; and they do not turn the left shoulder back out of the way. Consequently they sit in a cramped position, have no length of reach, and play a cross stroke on to their pony's legs, or perhaps hit him about the head with their stick. No wonder that few ponies will stand this stroke. When playing it we should avoid gripping too tightly, should throw our left shoulder back and ex- tend the right arm with stick held erect as far over to the left as we can reach, so that the elbow is well clear of the pony. The wrist should be kept as flexible as possible, for it is practically the centre of the swing, and the stick should be thrown back, so as to bring its head above the extended line of direction of the ball (see fig. 1 1 1 62 COMMAND OF THE BALL ^^), which is a precaution that the ordinary player ahogether ignores. We can hardly bring the head of the stick too near the pony's quarters, in doing which there is little fear of hitting him. At first we should not try to put power into the stroke, but should be content with the weight of the stick p/us the momentum of the pony. After the head meets the ball we should let the hand go well forward. If we watch a good player hitting straight forward, or cutting outward, we will see that his hand often passes the pony's bit, but without any danger of his stick striking the animal's head or legs. When drawing a ball across the front of our pony's forelegs it is well to use the check stroke, directing the head of the stick into the ground. To arrive at a rougfh idea of where a ball should lie so as to be within convenient reach for hittino- in various directions from a stationary pony, I nailed a plank on edge on wood pavement, and made a pony stand over it as shown in fig. 32. The measurements must not be taken as more than approximate ; for the slightest movement of the pony makes a considerable difference in the reach of the striker. My pony stands over 14. i; my stick is 53 inches ; and I am 6 feet high. I found that a ball in the first position, B i, lying eight inches behind my knee, was con- veniently placed for straightforward hitting. At B 2 it was still well within reach ; but at B 3 POSITIONS OF BALL 163 it became rather a case of scooping at or hooking it. A ball as far back as B 5, can be brought along, but it is not convenient for long hitting. Fig, 32. — Positions of Ball. A, Line of direction of pony. C, Line of ball (off-side). D, Line of ball (near-side). R to B I =30 inches ; to B 2 = 45 inches ; to B 3 =55 inches. B I to 64 = 31 inches ; B i to B 5= 42 inches. L to B 7 = 30 inches ; to B 8 = 43 inches. B 7 to B 6 = 23 inches ; B 7 to B 9 = 17 inches. The dotted line from L would pass directly below the rider's knee, and is 9 inches behind the centre of the near fore shoe. The dotted line from R would pass 8 inches behind a perpendicular from the rider's knee. In order to cut a ball away at an angle of 45'' it is well to have it near the position B 10, i.e., on a spot midway along the line B 2 to B 5. For 164 COMMAND OF THE BALL cutting at more open angles the ball is required to be still further back, or one's stick will not clear the pony's tail, that is, when keeping the head of the stick square to the line of the ball ; for by turning the head with the toe laid back, one can put on greater cut. To play a ball when further behind one than the position B 5, it must be nearer in towards the line of direction of the pony. A ball can be hit back-hand when lying directly behind a pony's tail, but it is much more difficult to play it by a forward stroke. A ball as far ahead as the position B 4, is suitably placed for a draw stroke under the pony's neck. On the near side it also suits when at position B 6. For forward strokes on either side, the ball can be taken considerably in advance of these positions. For near side play a ball lies conveniently for either forward strokes or back-handers when opposite one's knee in the position B 7. At B 8 it is quite far enough away, and at B 9 it becomes difficult, for the left shoulder cannot be turned very far towards the rear, unlike the right shoulder which, in off-side hitting, can be thrown back until it crosses the line of direction of the pony. To play the ball B i, straight forward towards C, the head of the stick, X i {fig. t,^), should always during the swing be directly over the line C— CC. The head of the stick, after having been raised and thrown back, returns to the ball over the CUTTING A BALL 165 extended line as shown at X 2, and later, after sweeping away the ball, should invariably follow on while keeping vertically over the line indicated byX3. D A Y2 bA Y^ V DD Fig. 33. — Lines showing Swing of Stick. An example of cutting a ball at an angle of 45° from the position B 10, is shown on the line S — AA. The stick head, Z, follows the line of direction of the ball as already described. The rule applies equally well to back-hand hitting. Faulty direction is nearly always the result of breaking this rule ; occasionally it is caused by turning the stick in the hand so that the head is not square to the ball. 1 66 COMMAND OF THE BALL I give my example of a faulty swing on the near side, but the rule applies equally well to off-side hitting. To hit the ball B 7, towards D, the head of the stick should always be kept over the line D — DD, as shown at Y and Y 2. If thrown out to Y 3 (as would be done if the player did not brino- his riorht arm far enouQ-h over across his pony's withers ; or if he did not sufficiently flex his wrist when throwing back the stick), the striker would attempt to force the head of his stick to follow a curve to get it towards D. He might partially succeed, after toeing the ball, as far as to get the head of his stick towards M ; but the probabilities are that the heavy head would flex the cane and follow a straiorhter line towards N ; in which case the unfortunate pony would almost certainly receive a rap on the side of its head. The broken line T — AA shows how a ball could be cut at an angle greater than 45° from the position B 5. For a still larger angle, the ball should be taken nearer AA. Fig. 34.— Sir HUMPHREY DE TRAFFORD'S Gold. (See page 299.) E. Gordon, Putney, S.W.] [To face pae^e 166. Fig. 35.— Mr. LAWRENCE McCREERYS Californian Pony, High Life. (See page 337. i67 CHAPTER VIII, PLAYING THE GAME, AND COMBINATION. The four players on either side (see Rule 5) are known as No. i, No. 2, No. 3, and No. 4, or '' Back," as he Is generally called, because he " plays back " behind the other three men of his team. No. i and No. 2 are called '' Forwards," as they "play forward." These numbers are respectively derived from the ordinary positions of the players during a game. Thus, No. i Is the furthest forward player of his side (see Z, fig. T,j, page 181), and Is separated from the enemy's goal only by the Back of that side. No. 2 Is the second furthest forward, and Is separated from his own No. I by the No. 3 of the enemy. No. 3 comes third in order with the No. 2 of the enemy between him and his own No. 2. The teams thus overlap. Polo being a game of combination, each player should work not only for himself, but also to assist his side by every means in his power. As the tactics employed for this purpose are com- mon to all players, w^e may regard them generally, before considering the special duties of the in- dividual numbers. A player can help his side : — 1 68 GAME AND COMBINATION (a) By taking on the ball himself. (d) By assisting a friend to get or keep it. (c) By preventing an adversary from doing either of these thincrs. The simplest example of taking the ball our- selves is when we have clear way to it, without any adv^ersary interposing, in which case we must take care to avoid "crossing" (see Rule t6), and to be " on side " (see Rule i8). It does not follow that we should alw^ays take the ball when we have the chance ; for sometimes it is better to leave it to a friend. Even when in possession, it may in certain cases (see page 170) be wisest to give it up to one of our own side, by ''leaving," or by " passing" it. If an adversary is in the way or attempts to come between us and the ball so as to prevent us from getting in a direct line to it, we must try to " slip " him, that is, to get past by greater speed or by finesse, or we must " ride him out." When two players race for the ball, starting on equal terms, the faster of course gets it, provided he is not ridden out. It may happen, however, that our adversary does not wish the ball, and is content to prevent us from getting to it, in which case finesse may effect our purpose. Suppose we make a start to one side of him as if to go round him and he spurs in our direction to intercept us, we may stop our pony unexpectedly, letting him go on, pass behind him and gallop away for the ball, before he THE LOCK 169 can pull up. This Is a common ruse of a Back getting rid of a No. i. When racing for the ball, if we have the faster pony, we should try to get past our opponent without touching, and if we are good at judging pace we will know exactly how much out of our direct course we can afford to pull wide in order to get clear of him. If there is no escape from a ride-out, we may try to get the best of the "lock." When two ponies of equal merit, galloping nearly level, have a set-to at riding-out, if one can get its girths a foot ahead of the other's girths it should certainly have the best of the ride-out ; as from this advantageous position it should be able to push away the other's fore-hand and thus force the animal from its course. We should always try to lock an adversary so as to get this advantage of fore leverage. Most players make the mistake of being in too great a hurry to lock, and do not wait even until they get level, much less until they are knee-in-front. If an opponent who is nearer the ball is wide awake and finds we are on the faster pony of the two, he will probably become the attacker and close with us before we get up alongside. By pulling wide we may entice him out of his way to lock and hold us, in which case he will probably try to make use of us to push him on to the ball. We must be careful not to give him this help. On the contrary, when we find that we have the worst of the ride-out, we may encourage him to 170 GAME AND COMBINATION force US further wide, so that, falHng to get from us the expected push towards the ball, he may not be able to Q-^t back in time to hit it. Although we should ride out boldly, we should avoid all uncalled-for violence. It is not honest polo to dash the point of one's pony's shoulder into another pony's ribs, to gallop into his quarters, or to " rush " a man so that one's knee comes violently ao-ainst his thigfh. This is foul, almost brutal play, which no good sportsman should indulge in simply on the chance of an umpire not readily detecting it. Part of the finesse of fair riding-out lies in deceiving an adversary. For example, if we make him believe we are left behind, he may, instead of watching us, turn all his attention to the ball and slow on his stroke, thus giving us a chance to make a dash up to spoil it. When taking on the ball, we will generally hit towards goal, exceptions to which rule are noted on pages 1 7 1 and 1 76. In order to assist our side by (d) aiding a friend to get or keep the ball, we may help him to get it when we are in possession by " leaving " it, or by "passing" it to him. We should leave it to him whenever we see he can do better with it than we can ; as, for instance, when an adversary is pressing us or riding us out so that we cannot make certain of our stroke ; when our course is blocked ; or when an opponent ahead is sure to get the ball if we hit forward. We may find that by going ahead we PASSING BALLS I/I can clear the way for a friend following" us. If we are approaching the ball at an angle which would give us a very difficult next shot, such as a cut or draw, or if the goal is only open to us as a very narrow passage from a side-approach, we should leave the ball to a friend who happens to have a better chance than we have, and if possible we should help him by riding one of the adversaries out of the way. When a reliable friend who is not addicted to the selfish practice of shouting for "leaves," asks us to leave the ball, we are wise to do so ; for he can see thing^s behind us which we cannot see. Bv disregarding a request to leave, feeling sure of our own stroke, we take a considerable amount of responsibility on ourselves. An uncertain hitter should always leave a ball, especially a shot at goal, to a surer player. As regards " passing " balls, we should never hit without knowing definitely where we wish to send the ball ; and we should have a fair idea what is next going to happen to it. When we take on the ball and have a clear course, we should hit towards goal. If the road is blocked, we may have to hit to any clear space ahead ; but in all cases we should have the question present in our mind : " Can I do better by passing to a friend ? " Usually we pass to a man ahead of us, but at times out to one side, and any friend will do, not necessarily the nearest. When our 172 GAME AND COMBINATION friend is galloping in the direction the ball will take, and circumstances permit, we should try to place it on his right, that is on his hitting side. If he must turn to get it, he will take it easiest if we place it a little wide on his left. Should he have an adversary on one side, we should hit to his free side, and should, when necessary, give him a hint what we intend doing. We ought to regulate the strength of our stroke, and guard against the aggra- vatino- mistake of making^ a friend turn and then hitting short of him. When passing from one side of the field to close in front of the goal, we ought to judge our strength with extra care ; because, to hit past the goal, near or over the back-line, means playing safety for the enemy. We should be careful never to pass a ball to an adversary. Too many players are content to hit forward regardless whether friend or foe gets it. If we have an opponent ahead who is likely to get the ball, we should hit short of him and when possible should let a friend go forward before we hit. The knowledge that balls may be left or passed imposes on all players the duty of looking out for and foreseeing these events. Riding behind a friend for leaves, intentional or accidental, is called " backing up," which help each player will expect from the number next behind him. The Back having no man behind him, is extra careful ; he avoids risks, rides ready to make a quick recovery, BACKING UP 1^7, and expects his No. 3 to be handy to help him. When "backing up " we should never ride close on the heels of a friend in possession, because if he is ridden-out and forced over the ball it may be moved by a pony's foot, or our friend may make a bad stroke and only move it slightly to one side ; there- fore we should leave ourselves room to see what happens and to pull out after a deflected ball. There is no surer sign of ignorant play than to see men on the same side bunched together, riding on each others' heels, or abreast, or perhaps the man who should be backing up going first, looking on helplessly. If an adversary presses us w4iile we are backing up, we should try to ride him out and should do our best to keep proper distance. In rare cases we may have to gallop past our friend to clear the wav for him, but we should be careful not to forget the special opponent for whom we are responsible (see page 174). If he is riding behind free, and the ball is left or back-handed, he may get it, and our triumphant attack may be quickly changed into defeat. Besides watching for left balls, we must foresee passed ones ; and at times we may ask for one. If w^e see a friend riding to hit a back-hander, we should judge the probabilities of his hitting or missing the ball and the direction in which he is likely to send it. If we consider the stroke a certainty, we had best ride to where we will get free possession and we may thus steal a march on 174 GAME AND COMBINATION the opponent who specially nurses us, provided he has not been as shrewd a prophet as ourselves. We should be ready to make a quick recovery should our friend fail in his stroke, and should remember that we leave an adversary behind. It is unwise to risk much in dangerous ground, for instance, near the front of our own goal. We ought to look out for chances of riding-out any adversary likely to interfere with a friend. Thus, if we are ahead, our duty is to clear the way ; and when behind, to prevent overtaking. It is well to bear in mind that quite as good work may be done by riding-out, as by taking on the ball. We should use our head and play ''the game," Instead of being ''loafers" and riding about idly looking on. To prevent {c) an adversary getting or keeping the ball, we must out-gallop him, ride him out, or crook his stick ; but while thus Interfering with any casual opponent, we have a special adversary, namely, the number next In front of us, whose attention Is continually directed on us, as ours ought to be on him. Thus, No. i watches the opposing " Back " ; No. 2 the opposing No. 3 ; No. 3 the opposing No. 2, and "Back," the enemy's No. i. A player galloping to stop an adversary in possession has the advantage that he does not require to steady for a stroke ; that he is not obliged to follow the exact course of the ball ; and that he never has to ride on an arc of a circle to get direction for a stroke. E. Gordon, Putney, S.W.] Fig. 36.— THE AUTHOR, May, 1898, [To /ace page 174. CROOKING 175 If our adversary has hit a ball somewhat off the straight line to goal, and is going too fast for us to overtake him, we should not ride in his wake following each hit he makes ; but should ride to head him, and gallop to where we know he must shortly pass. We must avoid crossing, and having taken our short cut, we should try and get the ball, or wait for our man, taking care to do so by slowing in our gallop, not by stopping, in which case, if he has pace on he will slip us. It is pitiful to see players galloping along hopelessly all over the ground after an adversary whom, if they would only use their heads, they could easily cut off by riding the shorter road to goal or to a point he must pass. It is a " green " trick to race up to a player and then do — nothing. If we fail to take the ball we should ride our man out, or crook his stick. Bunching should be avoided in scrimmages and at the boards, in which cases it is well not to be too eager in helping a friend to pick a ball out. We should never forget the adversary we are watching, and should remember that it is poor play to let him hang out loose, waiting until some- one kindly passes the ball out to him. In scrim- mages, *' interposing " (see Rule 16) takes the place of riding-out. As reofards " crookino- " we should be careful not to foul (see Rule 17), and should crook only when on the same side of our adversary's pony 176 GAME AND COMBINATION as the ball. We should avoid striking roughly at another player's stick, and should only crook when he is hitting or preparing to hit. When galloping beside an opponent we should not, by holdino- out our stick too soon, tell him we can crook his, but should leave him under the impres- sion that he is safe, and then at the last moment when his eyes are off us and on the ball, we can in all probability successfully crook. When on the wrong side for crooking we must ''hustle " (see Rule 19), but should be careful to keep our arm to our side. If we find that our hustling has failed to disconcert our opponent, we may desist a moment for a final effort, letting him begin his stroke, and then by a well-timed push spoil it if possible. With respect to safe and dangerous parts of the ground, I may say that anywhere near the front of our own goal is dangerous ; consequently we should never back-hand a ball in that direction, but for preference should hit well to one side. Playing across the ground, unless when safety absolutely requires it to be done, or when there is no other choice, is generally bad and selfish play ; for none of our own side will be there to take the ball. When we are in the enemy's half of the ground, we should hit straight for the goal. As our friends will always expect these tactics and ride accordingly, we should adopt them when we have no time to see the comrade to whom we should pass. FAIR PLAY 177 We should always hit strong and straight unless we have some special reason for dribbling or light hitting. All the same, we should not attempt difficult strokes if by a quiet placing tap we can put the ball in position for an easier second hit. It is wrong to delay to turn on a ball if a back-hander will suit our purpose equally well. Although we should never delay needlessly, we should not ride so fast as to let our pony out of hand, or to make us miss the ball, and we should make the most of any start we get. When ap- proaching a goal we should keep cool, and go at the pace and hit in the style that suits us best, without minding theory. We should obey our Captain, trust our friends, and never grumble or lose our temper ; for polo is supposed to be played for pleasure. We should keep up a good understand- ing with the friend next to us, instructing each other, when necessary, in a friendly spirit ; and should do a minimum of talk and a maximum of work. The members of a team should always keep their eyes on each other, and not tell the enemy what they are going to do. Above all things we should play fair. Fair play is a jewel, and polo is a o^ame for trentlemen. 12 178 CHAPTER IX. DUTIES OF PLAYERS. Duties of No. 4 — Duties of No. i — Duties of No. 2 — Duties of No. 3 — Captaining a Team. Turning now to the special duties of individual players, I shall begin with the Back ; partly because consideration of his play leads us naturally to speak of that of No. I, his nearest opponent, and partly or chiefly because, having played Back for nearly twenty years, I am most conversant with the duties of that number. Back is usually a steady, reliable player, of such long experience that he recognises almost intuitively what should be done at any given moment, and he is as a rule specially strong at back-hand hitting. Being probably an old member of the team, he often officiates as Captain. The Back has less continuous fast work to do than any other player. Although he is free of care on one side, and has a good deal of comparatively quiet looking on, he has greater responsibility than any other number when on active duty ; for he is the last defence between the enemy and the goal. To beofin at the commencement, let us consider DUTIES OF NO. 4 1/9 his position when the ball is thrown in at the centre. The opposing Nos. 2 face each other on either side of the centre "spot" or "star" (see fig. 7, page 45) ; the Nos. i about five yards nearer the thrower-in ; and the Nos. 3 about five yards on the further side of the " spot." The Back stands be- hind his No. 2, and nearer goal by, say, ten or fifteen yards, which is about the distance that will give him a fair chance of darting forward to take a ball deflected out towards him, before the adversary who touched it can get clear and into his stride ; or in case of a ball hit hard past him, to give him time to wheel and o-q back to take it before the hitter can have another stroke. The Back should have his pony collected ready for a quick start, and may point the head of his pony between his No. i and No. 2. He should see that his men face their special opponents, ready to stop them getting the ball or going on with it If they do, and should allow no "sneaking" into clear spaces with the object of greedily stealing away w^Ith the ball ; for the man who acts thus, cannot hold his opponent and shirks half his work. There should be no " babbling," no tightening of girths, no giving attention to anything but the duty of the moment. The Back should give the caution, "Watch your men." When the ball is thrown in over the boards, or towards the boards, Back should stand on a line between his No. 2 and goal, about the usual dis- tance from him, measuring the distance towards the l8o DUTIES OF PLAYERS goal and not towards the nearest point of the back- Hne. When near the enemy's back-line, he can risk lying out nearer the front of goal in hopes of having the ball passed out to him ; but he should not risk too much. When the ball is hit out from behind the back- line there is a choice of methods ; for either No. 3 or No. 4 may hit it out. The old style was for the Back always to hit out, usually with his three men out beyond the 30-yard line, having thus three men out against four. For this system the Back must be a very sure hitter and clever placer of the ball ; he should canter steadily, and be ready for a quick recovery, as a faulty stroke means great danger. It is usual now to have a man in front of goal (or between goal and the other players) ready either to intercept a returning ball, or to back up the hitter-out (see MM, figure 2)7)' Many prefer that No. 3 should hit out, as he can go on with the ball or at least gallop into position, in which case Back would keep goal. Should one of these players be weak at hitting-out, the duty should be given to the other. Most hitters-out ride at an easy hand gallop and hit strong ; but some few, preferring a ball on the move, give it a gentle tap out and then hit hard the second stroke, by which plan there is some risk on bumpy ground of not getting a good second chance. Bringing a ball out by a succession of dribbles is not to be recommended. In any case Back is expected to DUTIES OF NO. 4 18 r T^ \ V 1 ^I i V S:;i: W Fig. 37. — Positions of Players during a Game. M, Hitting out from goal-line (" all behind "). Reds hitting to left. If any of the hitting-out side post themselves outside the goal posts, as allowed by new Rule 14 (see page 254), the attacking side will open out accordingly. MM, Hitting out from back-line. No. 3 White hits away from front of goal to his No. 2. Z, Players overlapping during play. Nos. i specially blocking Nos. 4. 1 82 DUTIES OF PLAYERS hit up past his No. 2, generally towards the boards, and in a direction slanting away from the front of goal. He should see that No. 2 is watching him for a private signal ; is keeping clear of opponents ; and is waiting for the ball about the 30-yard line (unless Back is a very hard hitter), with his pony's head pointing towards the boards. Back should not let him start galloping (as he is apt to do, seeing that his companion is on the move) before the ball is hit. He should start just as Back hits, and should gallop on after the ball, not ahead waiting for it, or, as often happens, leaving it. As he follows in the direction of the ball, other players will not risk fouling him, and he gets on pace by the time the ball is "hitable." Back should observe that his No. I is on the alert, for players are often terribly careless at this critical moment. No. i should nurse the adversaries' Back, half a length in front of him, ready to interpose between him and where he (No. i) expects the ball to be hit to, with his pony's head pointing in the same direction as that of the Back, so as not to risk being put "off- side." On rare occasions, the hitter-out may finesse and pass a ball unexpectedly across his goal-keeper, which is a paying game only when his adversaries are napping or when his own two Forwards are very much alive to his secret signals. Having determined where he is going to hit to, he should give his whole attention to the ball, should never take his eyes off it, and should not bother about the opposing DUTIES OF NO. 4 1 83 No. I, who dares not cross him at the gallop. If Back is goal-keeper and the ball is returned, he should be careful not to cross advancing players. Back is not likely to stop a very hard hit up ball, to do which he will have the best chance if he rides on the line from hitter to goal. When hitting out from behind goal ("all behind," see fig. 2)7 y ^^' P^§"^ i8i)' ^^ ^^ usual to move the ball a foot or so as a signal to one's men to gallop out towards their places (see page 174). The hitter-out (whether No. 3 or Back) delays as long as he dares, that is, until No. 2 or No. i of the other side darts in, and then hits out to his No. 2 (or other free Forward), selecting if possible a clear space in safe country ahead of that number. The Forwards who intend galloping out, should post themselves on the left of the hitter-out, no matter which boards he hits towards, as they will then have the ball on their hitting hand. When Back is on the attacking side, and the ball is hit out from behind the goal-line, he should come well forward, say, within twenty yards of the 25-yard arc, waiting midway between the centre of the ground and the direction likely to be taken by the ball, from which position he will have the option of darting in to any ball which is returned to a spot somewhere in front of goal, or of getting into his usual position should the ball be got away. He should see that his three men are properly placed and are not sleeping ; 184 DUTIES OF PLAYERS that his No. i is up to the 2 5 -yard arc nearly directly in front of the enemy's Back ; that his No. 2 is close in watching- the opposing No. 3, and that his No. 3 is ready to either take the ball or stop the opposing- No. 2.* When the ball is hit out from behind the back- line (see fig. 2>7^ MM, page 181), similar positions will answer ; the 30-yard line being taken for the 25 -yard arc, with the exception that No. 3 will be close to the enemy's No. 2, wherever that player places himself. Back will have to dodge the opposing No. i to keep elbow-room, and if possible to put him off-side. During play in the open, Back should keep a safe distance from the players ahead of him, at a distance which will depend on several circum- stances, the reasons deciding which will not always be obvious to onlookers, who in this case do not see "all the game." The adversaries' No. i will be the only player quite close to Back. If Back's adversaries are strong hitters who send the ball hard past him, he should lie well clear of them, so as to have the shorter distance to go for it. But if they hit weakly or the turf plays slow, he '•' As permitted by new Rule 14, a Forward of the defend- ing side had better stand outside the goal post to the right of the hitter-out ; and another outside the goal post to the left. The respective opponents may place themselves on the 25- yard arc opposite these Forwards ; and the Back will stand facing goal : (or, No. 3 may stand 10 yards back from the arc; he and No. 4 guarding different sides of approach). Fig. 38.— The AUTHOR, Mr. T. B. ("Tom ') Drybrough, on his Montana Pony, Concha. (See page 327.) W. A. Rough, London.] {To /ace /a^c 184. Fig. 39.— Mr. W. J. ("Jack ) DRYBROUGH, on Texas Pony, Fusilier. Played in Champion Cup, 1897. (See page 312.) DUTIES OF NO. 4 1 85 should keep close up, as he may often have to dart forward to get the ball. In any case, a good deal depends upon the activity and speed of his pony compared to that of No. i. If his adversary is slow, lies wide of him, and does not appear for- midable, he may keep fairly close up. But if the adversary is very smart, and Back feels that he has the worst of pace and weight, he should lie well back and finesse for elbow-room. Distances vary so much with every phase of the game, that no good purpose is served by attempting to lay down average ones, although Back will find that about twenty yards from his own No. 3 will be a very useful length at times. His ordinary waiting posi- tion will be on a line from the ball to his goal ; but if he sees a ball is not o'oino- to be hit on that line, he must, in order to get it, ride for the line it will take. He should try to foresee every stroke, and when he can do so without too much risk, he should oret on the move before the ball is hit. Back should be careful not to cross opponents who are entitled to free course, not only when he goes forward to a ball, but also when turning to go back for one, in which case he will often seem about to cross, especially when getting into position to take a back-hander on the near side. He should give as little appearance of risking a cross as possible. A good umpire will have his eyes on him and will make every fair allowance. Back, who is entitled to ride to hit the. ball back on his near side, pro- 1 86 DUTIES OF PLAYERS vided he does not cross its course, should not only avoid crossing the line of the ball, but should also keep distinctly clear of it. He should not be " bluffed " by needless cries of " My ball," or similar expressions. He will find that "meeting" a ball is very dangerous play and is allowable only when he has no option, a friend behind, or plenty of time to recover should he miss. Usually it is better for him to turn and ride for a back-hander. As straight back-handers are easier than draws, he will always take them when he has a choice. By altering the course of his pony he may get the same effect from a straight hit back, as from going directly to the ball and drawing it. In order to avoid having the ball stopped by a pony following him, he will often have to hit it back to one side. When placing it to his left side, a draw across his pony's quarters will answer the purpose. In a back- hand cut away from him to the right, which is more difficult, the ball should be hit at nearly the full reach of his stick, or with a very much shortened grip. The back draw is a useful stroke to clear the front of goal. The forward draw under the pony's neck is a very uncertain stroke, as is the one under his body. The former, if successful, may both clear a goal and retain possession, and the latter is use- ful in attack to place a ball in front of goal or to put it through. Hitting behind the back-line to save goal is a last resource, but must at times be had recourse to in spite of the heavy penalty DUTIES OF NO. 4 1 87 attached ; for it is better than risking a miss or passing to dangerous ground. A Back should not be eager to make runs, but should go forward if the way is cleared for him and if he knows his No. 3 is handy to support him. He should stop the moment he sees he must lose possession, and should then get quickly back into place. In rare cases he may stay to ride out or back up, but this is seldom advisable, as it is apt to disorganise a team, and it encourages his No. 3 to usurp his place as Back, which is very bad tactics indeed. He should never allow his No 3 to come back at wrong times to steal balls which he himself should take ; for by acting thus. No. 3 neglects his own place, leaves No. 2 free, and brings all the players back with him. On the other hand, he should not let No. 3 rush away too far forward, especially on his side of centre ; for Back would then be in danger of having two men on him. A continued strono- defence succeeds far better than a brilliant but erratically carried out attack. Back should be especially careful anywhere near his own goal, but he can take more liberties near that of his adversaries. When the ball is at their end out w^ide of goal, he may expect it to be passed in front and should wait out ready to hit it through. When galloping parallel with the back-line to take a pass in front of goal, he will frequently give himself an easier shot by approaching the ball so as to hit it back-hand instead of by cut or draw. He should 1 88 DUTIES OF PLAYERS not be greedy to hit goals, but should pass the ball if it leaves a friend a better chance. Although his No. 3 will give him more help than he can give him in return (passing balls excepted), he should always be ready to back his No. 3 up and to assist him in any way he can. Although he should pass to any friend that is at hand ; No. 2 will perhaps oftenest get the ball, as he rides about forty yards from him. Back will find that although hard hitting is good ; judicious placing pays still better. Hitting hard, I may state, is more a matter of habit than most men suppose. Although Back should not forget to send the balls up strong, he should not pass them beyond his own men to an enemy. Back should not badger his No. 3 with constant instructions, but should let him use his own brains. If he has to signal, he should do it privately, without telling the enemy. He should remain cool, keep his temper, and never lose heart. As regards that thorn in his flesh, No. i, he should take his measure and that of his ponies, and will do all the better if he has watched No. I's style before they meet in a match. If he has not had this advantage, he should ''feel" him at unim- portant moments ; should turn and notice if he follows him and is smart at catching him up ; should try if he is quick to stop him if he attempts to slip past him ; and should bump him to see how- he rides out. If he finds him slack at these things he may keep his mind easy, and can attend to the DUTIES OF NO. 4 1 89 game as if No. i was not there. If, on the other hand, he finds him watchful and dangerous, he should finesse for elbow-room, keep back a bit, try to draw No. i into wrong moves by giving him false indications as to where he is going, and then change quickly before he has time to recover. If No. I is a "flying-man" and likely to slip him and take on the ball. Back should not let him pass, but should ride him out, and use him to put him- self on to the ball. As a rule Back should not court riding-out bouts, but should keep clear. If, however, he finds that he is going to be slipped, he should assume the offensive. When Back is being ridden out by No. i, he may at times humour him, if by doing so he entices No. i into an outside turn which puts him offside, or if No. i pushes Back so much round that Back wheels behind him and slips away. Back should not make too much noise. I once played No. i against a Back who rode a pony that kept snorting at its nose-net, consequently I had no trouble in watching that man, whose movements were indicated by his pony. No. 4 may try how far the No. i will let him lie distant from other players and still stick to him ; for many Ones are so anxious to help their No. 2 that they cannot bear to lie far out of the game. A good Back will, however, know that he cannot afford to lie far from a No. i who instead of hitting up to him dribbles short. If he is lazy at following 190 DUTIES OF PLAYERS Back up to press him when hitting back-handers, Back may force him to come by deHberately turn- ino" at the ball and quietly placing it for a forward hit. At times Back's purpose will be served by his having an enemy less in front of him where the ball is going, and if Back draws No. i at speed he may put him off-side, in which case he ought to keep him there as long as he can by darting forward or by interposing his pony, during which manoeuvre No. i dare not touch him. Back's own No. 3 should be alive to help him to keep a man off-side, that is, he should not drop behind ; for by acting with Back at times two men may be got off-side. Back may caution No. i when off- side so that he may not be impeded, or may let him commit the foul, and then claim the penalty. The straighter Back rides behind his No. i, the more difficult will it be for the latter to see him, and the more awkward will be the turn for him to ofet round to Back. Rough play, pulling over a pony's forelegs, zig- zagging at speed, interposing when pace is on, violent bumping, forcing a pony's head and bit up in an adversary's face or over his pony's neck, and such like practices, should not be tolerated ; for there is an umpire to appeal to. Back should be very careful not to do anything similarly objectionable. Back ought to ride the very best pony he can find, namely, one combining great steadiness, quickness, speed, power to resist being easily ridden out, and DUTIES OF NO. 4 I9I willingness to do his share of bumpino'. It is nonsense to suppose that any old medium-paced steady pony is good enough for a Back, especially if he desires to win good matches. If necessary, it is better to make a sacrifice in speed than in handiness. The pony should quietly face the other players until he is asked to wheel, should not be anxious to whip round the moment he sees anything moving towards him, and should not bother his rider by fidgeting. He should at once answer the indica- tion to spring forward, and to face-in, without fear of ponies galloping towards him. When we are playing Back, by one moment of hesitation we may lose our chance by letting an adversary get the ball, or by finding that it is impossible for us to go forward without crossing. When we ride nearly parallel with others our pony should not keep edging away, but should go exactly where we direct him, even towards the others if we so desire. He should be able and willing to turn on the spot, to canter round on very small circles, to rein- back kindly, to start quickly, and to stop dead without fighting for his head. He should gallop very fast for back-handers to give his rider a chance of steadying on the stroke, and the noise of hoofs behind should not excite him to pull or " play up." He should understand the intention of a back-hand stroke, so as to be on the wheel to whichever side he is directed, but he must not be 192 DUTIES OF PLAYERS SO cunning as to prop before he comes quite up to the ball. He must not "funk" a rough bout at riding out, and if bustled must not get excited and difficult to manage. Speed plus handiness is delightful. We obtain a most satisfactory sense of safety from the feeling that we have time to make sure of our strokes, can- not be collared, and may even catch up an opponent who slips us. We cannot expect any pony to be perfect at all these things, for the best fail at some point. Even several of the most celebrated and highest priced match-ponies can only be played successfully by specially good men. The fact of a pony being extra good almost implies that he is high-strung and wants a judicious rider with fine hands. We ought, if possible, to select for our riding, ponies that suit us, and while taking advan- tage of their special good qualities, we should avoid asking them to do anything we know they are bad at, or which is likely to upset their tempers. As it is advisable to start and finish well, we should not ride our worst pony at the beginning of a match, or at the end unless we are goals to the good. To Mr. John Watson (fig. 40), the Captain of the celebrated Freebooters Team, common consent awarded the premier place as Back. It is ad- mitted that the present combination style of play owes its existence chiefly to him. What he does not know of the game is not worth knowing. He excels in placing balls, both by forward and back- SOME NOS. 4 193 hand strokes. Being a skilful horseman and a welter weiofht he is a hard man for a No. i to tackle. Always cheery when attacking, he also knows how to play a losing game, being most reliable and determined in defence. Mr. Buck- master (see also page 217) when he plays Back is unsurpassed. Mr. '' Jack " Drybrough (fig. 39), who rivals the two players just mentioned, is a powerful heavy weight horseman. He is a difficult man to ride out, and is perhaps the hardest all-round hitter living. He knows the game and never tires. Last season (1897) ^e played Back for the respective teams which won all the four most interestinis- matches open to civilians, namely, the Champion Cup, the Ranelagh Challenge Cup, the All Ire- land Open Cup, and the Paris International Cup. Major Rimington (fig. 6) takes easily first place among soldier Backs now in England. He is a welter weight, an excellent horseman, a powerful hitter, and has nothing to learn about polo. Cap- tain K. MacLaren (fig. 12), although absent in India, must not be omitted here. He is the best light weight Back in the Army, and has captained the 13th Hussars in all their many victories. He is a perfect judge of pace and of the possibilities of play, has a most accurate eye, and often does the work of two men for his side. 13 194 DUTIES OF PLAYERS DUTIES OF No. 1. Having dealt with the play of No. 4, we will now consider that of No. i, who is his nearest man and his particular enemy. The position of the different players when the ball is thrown or played in has been stated on page 179. I may, however, briefly repeat that No. i stands nearest the thrower-in, facing the opposing No. i . When the ball is thrown from the boards, the Captain may wish No. i to stand furthest from the thrower-in so as to be nearer the oppos- ino- Back, an arrangement which is retained only by the team of the 13th Hussars, as far as I can remember. No. i should not edge so close to the boards, or to the thrower-in, as to allow no room for the ball to touch ground ; and he should not cross the line dividing the two sides ; because the ball has to be thrown between him and his opponent, and not, as too often happens, under his pony or against its legs. He should be as anxious to lock his opponent as to get the ball, which his Back will account for if the opponent hits it forward, and if No. i does not let the hitter through. Instead of hanging out clear. No. 1 should keep close to hook his opponent's stick, or to interpose before him if he attempts to come forward. He should be ready to crook the stick of the player on the left of the thrower-in, who has the very slight advantage of being able to reach E. Gordon, Putney, S.W.] {.To /ace page 194. Fig. 40. — Mr. JOHN WATSON. DUTIES OF NO. I 1 95 furthest forward, as the ball comes on his hitting side. If the ball passes them both, No. i should get to Back and should not stand watching what happens. As he starts he will see if he could do better helping his nearest friend ; but generally the ball goes to a Back, who should not be left free. When the ball is hit out from behind the o-oal line by No. I's side, he should ride the moment it is touched, and should make for the Back. If he has a chance en route, he should help his side as seems best, either by taking on the ball, or by clearing the way. When the ball is hit out from the goal-line by the enemy's Back, No. i stands at the 25-yard arc directly in front of him, ready to dash in to stop dribbling or take a bungled ball, or to get alongside as he gallops forward, in which case No. i should quickly get close up and ride him out. When No. 3 hits out, No. 2 should attend to him, while No. I should watch the Back. When the ball is hit out from the back line by the enemy, No. i should wait at the 30-yard line and act as before. When hit out by his own side, he should be half a length before the opposing Back ready to interpose be- tween him and where the ball will be hit to, with his pony's head pointing as his points, so that he will have an equally good start if the opposing Back tries to come forward to get him off-side or to take the ball. In case of a free hit at goal by the enemy's 196 DUTIES OF PLAYERS Back, No. I is expected to stand ten yards before him, directly in the line he will hit (a cruel posi- tion), ready to intercept the ball, or to go in to stop dribbling or take a bungled ball. If his side gets the free hit, he should keep up beside the enemy's Back as usual. In general play, the part of No. i, first Forward, nurser of the enemy's Back, is probably, with some brilliant exceptions, the worst played number in polo. Regimental and County teams, having only a small number of good players to choose from, find it advisable to keep together their three best players, in No. 2, No. 3, and No. 4 ; the part of No. I being often entrusted to some young player who is more conspicuous for dash and spirited riding-out than for command of the ball or general knowledge of the game. The exception is when a player shows such special aptitude for the position that it would be sheer waste to put him anywhere else. Few young players like playmg No. i, which often means bustling his pony for no very apparent result ; racing to flurry a Back there is no reason- able chance of catching ; risking blows from ball or stick when back-handers are hit ; and practising self-sacrifice in leaving the ball for his No. 2 when he would dearly like to take it on himself. Worst of all is the too frequent and undeserved grumbling of his side, who often fail to realise that he cannot do impossibilities, and that he cannot invariably DUTIES OF NO. I 1 97 Stop the Back at every phase of the game. All the same, No. I's berth is an excellent one for the right man. He will have frequent opportunities of foiling even the most skilled Back, whom he can prevent coming forward into the game, which is half the battle. No. I can often press the Back so much, that when he rides back on defence he dare not take time to make certain of his back-handers or at least to give them accurate direction. He will also have opportunities of nursing the ball for a friend, keeping or passing it, and taking it on himself, it may be by dribbling it tantalisingly behind the Back, never sending it up his length (a most aggravating performance), or taking it on with clever near-side strokes while riding him out. Of course there are many chances of getting to the ball first, of slipping past the Back, of brilliant runs, and of clear shots at goal. Except No. 2, no player has so many chances of scoring goals as No. i. When No. i grumbles that his position never gives a chance of hitting the ball, he simply tells every- body that he is a bad player, and that he does not understand the game. The oft-made assertions that No. I should never mind the ball, should pay no heed to the game, and should do nothing but watch the Back, are utterly absurd. Any good Back will bear witness that the player he fears is not the No. i who always comes to him, but the man who knows when to "take " him and when to 198 DUTIES OF PLAYERS '' slip " him — in fact the man he has to watch, and who watches him. No. I should work hand in hand with his No. 2, and should not keep growling that his labour is thrown away, that No. 2 never hits up to him, and so forth. No. i should not go back to do the work of No. 2, whom he will help most by keeping his own proper place near the Back. During the progress of the game. No. i should as often as possible be either almost touching the Back, or very slightly ahead of him, between him and the game, and with both ponies' heads turned in nearly the same direction ; for if the Back wishes to come forward and sees No. I's pony looking towards him, he may shoot past him before he can wheel, and will thus often get him off side. Suppose a ball is hit forward hard past No. i and the Back, the latter will get the start of the former by the distance they were apart. If they are of equal weight and are mounted on equally fast and quick-turning ponies, Back should get to the ball first, although he labours under the disadvantages of having to steady his pony for the back-hander, and of taking precautions to insure giving right direction to his strokes. No. i, unhampered by these considerations, may gallop top speed, fully content if he can ride him out or get up in time to even hit simultaneously, to crook his stick, or at least to flurry him. Probably he is the lighter and younger man, and rides ponies specially picked for DUTIES OF NO. I 1 99 such quick dashes. When makhig these charges, he will often pass the Back and get put off side, for doing which he should not be blamed ; for if he is not frequently put off side in this manner, he is not doing his work. Blame attaches to him only when he does not try, or does not make a sharp recovery by quickly getting on side again, which manoeuvre many Nos. i execute badly on account of riding impetuous and unhandy ponies. No. I may be put on side without repassing the Back or other adversary, by the ball being brought on past him by one of his own side. If he sees that this is certain to occur, he should wait, but should never commit the grave fault of cantering ahead on the mere chance of this occurring. When one of his own side passes him, he should decide instantly how he can best assist him, whether by riding off an enemy, or by backing up to take the ball if missed. In the latter case, he should not follow too closely, but should leave himself room to chanoe his course on to a deflected ball ; for if both he and his friend gallop over the ball ahead of the other side, to whom they will thus leave it, they will become two men off side. As long as No. i is off side, he should not interfere with any player. At all times he should be careful to avoid collisions when changing course suddenly after deflected balls. He should foresee where any ball is likely to be hit to, and should turn his pony in anticipa- 200 DUTIES OF PLAYERS tlon, without always waiting to see the Back make the first move and thus get the start. These prophecies are not always fulfilled, but the player who uses his brains best will oftenest get the advantaore. For this reason No. i must watch the game as well as keep his eyes on the Back. If a ball is hit to a spot where No. i could come back and take it before any other player, and he sees that the next man to get to it will be an enemy, he should go to it at once, and having got it, should do something useful with it. Whatever he does, he should not give it to the Back, which is a crime frequently repeated by brainless Nos. i, and he should not sit and stare vacantly at it until some adversary steals it away. No. i may take it on himself with dribbling strokes always hit short of Back, provided he can follow on and get it again ; or he may pass it out wide before a friend, or quietly nurse it till one arrives. If an adversary tries to steal the ball. No. i can wait until the opponent is quite close and can then tap it well clear to safe ground. If a friend gets it. No. i should be given time to get on the Back before the ball is hit up ; for as No. i has purposely re- frained from passing the ball to the enemy, he is entitled to expect that his friend will not undo his work. Want of cool forethought in this respect is the cause of many a goal being lost. If No. I finds that the Back is extra busy dodging him, trying to mislead him as to where Elliott & Fry.] Fig. 41. — Mr. GERALD HARDY, on Gamecock. (No. I, Freebooters Team, 1897.) W. A. Rough, London. [To face page 200. Fig. 42.— IVIr. G. A. MILLER, on Rasper. (Played in Open Champion Cup, 1897.) DUTIES OF NO. I 20I he is going, attempting to shoot past him, and putting in practice other manoeuvres, he may rest assured that he is fulfilling his own mission properly in troubling Back as much as he can. No. 1 can afford to play this game longest, for he is helping his side by taking the attention of Back off the game. He should lie between Back and the game, blocking the likeliest direc- tion. When wheeling, No. i instead of turning outside Back had better rein back and slip past behind. He should ride his opponent out on the hitting side when possible, but having begun his rush he should go to the side he aimed for, and should avoid changing. He ought not to be too thin-skinned about the remarks of his own side, for they cannot appreciate all his finesse, and some men so dearly love to hear their own voices that they will shout when they see the Back free, although perfectly ignorant of the cause. No. I will occasionally see that it is hopeless trying to reach the Back or even hurrying him, but he should nevertheless go, or pretend to go, towards him, not to dash past him but to get in position for further developments, He ought not to let him quietly turn on the ball and begin placing it for forward hitting. If Back is a wily player, he may delay hitting to draw No. i so as to have one enemy less out in front, in which case No. i should ride forward so as to interpose between him and his new course. If, however, 202 DUTIES OF PLAYERS Back has had time to get started, No. i ought to keep clear, or he will foul. Should Back assume for the moment some other place in the game, playing No. 3 or going- forward, No. I will do well to stick to him ; because changing on to the player who takes his place as Back will only cause confusion. Gener- ally the change is short, but in some teams No. 3 and No. 4 so frequently take each other's places that it is difficult to say what numbers they are supposed to be. No. i and his No. 2 should then be equally versatile. On special occasions No. I should do any work which lies to hand, no matter whose duty it is. He might study with advantage the remarks on riding out (page 169). No. I should avoid all unfair roughness. When he wishes to recover after riding out the Back, he should turn by pulling away from him and not by trying to pass in front over his pony's forelegs. He should not pull his pony's mouth up in an op- ponent's face, nor jam its head over his reins. He should try to finesse for the best of the lock ; to mislead as to pace and distance for crooking ; to hustle at the moment of hitting ; and to avoid letting the Back use him to ride him on to the ball, instead of which it is better to entice him out wide. He should not use his pony for stopping balls, or risk him by forcing him up recklessly within reach of the swinor of a back-hand stroke ; for it is better to ride wide of the stroke and crook the stick. MR. C. ADAMTHWAITE 203 A heavy weight No. i has an adv^antage when riding- out, and a Hght weight has most chance when racing for the ball or slipping past. Any man, no matter how light he is, can crook a stick or force an adversary to take his back-handers on the near side. The ponies ridden by No. i should be speedy and have special aptitude for these lightning-like dashes he is expected to make on Back. They must face up and ride out boldly. With all this they must be well under control, for if they are not so, No. I will never be able to lie near a clever well-mounted Back, over whom, however, No. I has the advantage that he can generally ride with both hands. A free hand for the stick is more important to Back than to No. t, whose slips are not so dangerous to his side as those of Back are to his. In short. No. i may risk a pony a trifle (only a trifle) more impetuous than the Back would feel absolutely safe upon. As the methods of a successful player are always worthy of study, I am pleased to be able to give a few notes sent to me by my Rugby friend, Mr. Charles Adamthwaite (fig. 44). The reason I applied specially to him was because he has not only bothered me per- sonally when playing against me, but I have seen him (at least on one particularly clever pony) block my brother (Mr. "Jack" Drybrough) so that he had to finesse continuously, and not always 204 DUTIES OF PLAYERS successfully, for elbow-room. This was a feat I have never known any other No. i accomplish. My Ideas as to how It was done have been verified. One question I specially asked, '' Do you watch the pony or the man ? " I am often haunted by the glaring eyes of heated, gasping Nos. i who ride alongside staring me In the face as though they hoped to hypnotise me ; — why ? I do not know. On the rare occasions when 1 have played One I have Ignored the man and watched the horse. I am here reminded that quite recently In Leicestershire I had half an hour's Involuntary practice at much the same game when my hunter got away from me, after a combination toss at a fence, and persistently refused to be caught. I herded him on another Montana range horse and by watching each bend of his muzzle and Inter- cepting him I finally closed and hooked the reins. My friend writes : '' When playing No. i I always endeavour to keep my pony half a length in front of the Back's pony, sloping mine at a slight angle diagonally across his course so that he cannot slip me without changing the direction of his pony and pulling out wide to pass me. " If he endeavours to pass on the other side of my pony, he must rein back to go behind me, which gives me plenty of time to frustrate the attempt. No. I need never fear a Back who tries to pass round behind him, for in executing this manoeuvre he Is always at a disadvantage. On the contrary. DUTIES OF NO. I 205 when he shoots straight forward to pass a No. i on his nearest side he, as initiating the movement, gets the best of the start. No. I's only chance, there- fore, is to interpose his pony about half a length in front of the Back, at a slight angle across his pony, on a line between him and the ball. No. i should always keep one eye on the head of the Back's pony, and the other on the ball. He gathers his ideas of the Backs intentions by watching his pony s head. When the Back wheels about and gallops back on the defensive, No. i, if not able or not wishing to overtake him, should follow exactly in his tracks, at a distance of about a length and a half behind him. Thus, when the Back again wheels, No. i will be able to turn inside his course no matter to which side he pulls. "When opponents are attacking near a goal, No. I should be very particular to keep close to the Back, and should devote his whole attention to preventing him from having any chance of breaking throuofh and scorino"." I consider the above notes both interesting and important. They describe a system rarely pursued by Nos. I, who generally allow the Backs too much elbow-room. I do not for a moment mean that No. I should not go for the ball when doing so is the best policy, but he can do that effectively enough from his position of close to the Back. It is obvious that to lie always half a length from a Back, No. i must have a very handy pony ; one 206 DUTIES OF PLAYERS that will traverse and rein back readily. To escape from such a No. i the Back must have a pony equally highly schooled. With such players an umpire will want the full use of his eyes to detect off-sides. As No. I has three friends behind him, while poor Back is unsupported, it is evident which player runs the greater risk. Fortunately for Back it is only occasionally when attacking that he is at a disadvantage. On the defensive he has the best of the chances, always provided the ball comes quickly enough his length. A soldier, First Forward, writing to me says, that No. I should always ride the fastest pony, as Backs get the start of him. My advice alike to Nos. I, 2, 3 and 4 is : Always ride the fastest (and handiest) pony in the game — if you can get it. Captain Pedder (fig. 12) of the often victorious 13th Hussars, is certainly the best known military No. I. Bold riding out is his speciality. Mr. G. W. Hobson, 12th Lancers, who played a dashincr aame in the Inter-Reo^imental Tourna- ment last year (1897), promises to be a first class No. I. Among civilian players, Captain Rawlin- son (fig. 5), though better known as a No. 2, is beyond doubt the most brilliant No. i in England. He gallops fast, and as he has mar- vellous command of the ball he is deadly when he gets possession. Mr. G. A. Miller (fig. 42) o n C) s> (S t^ ^ <5 (f) •^ ?^ jo" S« n r^ < O -7^. c 0) o ^ ^ u UJ rt h- o < ^ rt I u. h ,:= ^ < o < < d l! 1 rt «* 61 U. Q. CO iZ DUTIES OF NO. 2 207 is invaluable as a reliable, painstaking and tho- roughly unselfish No. i. He plays the strict game, and is an accurate placer of the ball. DUTIES OF No. 2. Number Two is usually the most envied post in the Royal Game, and is the ideal berth of the young and enthusiastic hard rider and hard hitter, for no other player has such frequent chances of cxlorious runs, and of brilliant shots at croal. He has also the happy knowledge that his mistakes, as for example, his unintentional leaves, may have no serious consequences to his side, seeing he has generally behind him the two steadiest men in his team. No. 2 has the ball hit out to him from behind the back-line and continually served up to him during the game by No. 3 and No. 4, and often nursed for or passed to him by his No. i, who gallops on to clear the way. With all these advantages it is the more necessary that No. 2 should have the verve and ability to make the most of his chances. He must always be on the alert for openings, and should have that command of the ball which enables him to carry it on at racing pace with strong, sure, well directed strokes. Above all things he must be a sure goal-hitter, for what profit or pleasure can there be in bringing on a ball, or in having it passed right up to the front of goal if he clumsily misses that crucial test, the final shot ? 208 DUTIES OF PLAYERS As there Is much fast and continuous hard work to be done, No. 2 should have a good physique, and be In the best of condition ; and should also be mounted on ponies as fit as himself. Nos. 2 are very apt to tire off to nothing in the last twenty minutes of a match, partly no doubt from their necessary exertions in the earlier periods of the game, or occasionally because they waste their strength by needless flurry, and sometimes, I fear, because with youthful indiscretion they forget that holiday festivities are not conducive to good wind and endurance. No. 2 must not run away with the idea that the other players exist for his sole glory. He should be perfectly unselfish, and always ready to help his side by leaving the ball to his No. 3, or by passing it forward to his No. i, as may best serve the interests of the o-ame. When not on the ball he must not loaf, looking on idly; but must ride-out, clear the road or back up, working in this way as hard as any man on his side. Like No. 3 he has double chances of usefulness, for he has a friend and a foe at hand on either side of him. Hano-Inor out for chances instead of working to make them for others if not for himself, is the most usual failing of a No. 2. Impatience is another fault. For instance, he should not be in too great a hurry to hit, but should think what he is doing, so as to avoid hitting past his No. i with the result of foolishly DUTIES OF NO. 2 209 giving the ball to the opposing Back. He should wait till his No. i gets forward to hold the Back, and should nurse the ball and hit up short of, or to the guarded side of, the enemy ahead. When near a goal he should not try difficult angle strokes if a place tap or a pass to a friend will give a better chance of scoring. It is the side makes the goals, not the individual player who chances to give the ball the last hit through. No. 2 is nursed by the enemy's No. 3— they watch each other. Just as No. i will not allow the opposing Back to get to the ball, so No. 2 must prevent the opposing No. 3 taking it. He should always have present in his mind the thought : "If I don't get the ball, No. 3 sha'n't." If Twos were slanged for leaving their Nos. 3, as Ones are for letting the Backs go loose, they would be much more useful players. It is true, however, that No. 2 is principally an attacker, and that he, like Back, should rather finesse for elbow-room than court ridino'-out. When No. 2 gets a run he should go just as fast as is necessary, and although he should lose no time, he should not ride so furiously that he cannot accurately hit the ball, or cannot straighten or steady his pony, to let the ball stop hop- ping. If he lets him out of hand the ball will be missed, and the pony will take his rider for a holiday clean out of the game. After missing the ball a quick recovery is absolutely necessary, it 14 2IO DUTIES OF PLAYERS he does not wish to find himself off-side, and hopelessly separate from the No. 3 who is sup- posed to be strictly watched. No. 2 should treat No. i fairly, and not keep asking him to leave the ball when he has an equally good chance of doing well with it ; the correct play is to pass the ball to him whenever that pays best. No. 2 should himself become a No. I when the No. 3 he is watching plays Back. Also No. 2 must not foro^et to work for his own No. 3, clearing the way for him or help- ing him to the ball as opportunities may arise. Everything which has already been said about leaving and passing balls, riding out, crooking, foreseeing events, backing up, &c., applies as much to No. 2 as to any other number. All players should ride to "head" opponents they wish to catch up, taking the shortest ways to whatever they wish to do. When a player gets the ball he should not be content to hit it any- where, as do some Twos who seem perfectly happy to hit across the ground, or away to corners, or along the boards instead of "cen- tring " the ball to the middle of the field ; in fact anywhere so that they can get a "smite," which are follies that should be avoided. If the direc- tion in which the player approaches the ball does not suit, that is to say, does not lead towards goal, the ball should be passed to a friend, a back-hand stroke being used when necessary. DUTIES OF NO. 2 2 11 Players should never hit on the near-side when they can keep the ball on their right. No. 2 should ride fast, smooth-galloping ponies which he can pull up reasonably quickly even at full speed ; for handiness is necessary in all parts of the game. No. 2 is all the better of being a hard hitter, for a good long stroke pays better than a short one with only the chance of a second, and gives time for the ball to settle into a smooth run before it is overtaken. It also saves the time taken to steady the pony for the second stroke. Besides, if one hits clear over the heads of the players in front, there is no risk of the ball being intercepted. The positions of No. 2 when the ball is thrown or played in, have been fully described at page 179. In the first case. No. 2 should block the opposing Two till the ball is started, and then remember that his future place is close up to the enemy's No. 3, whom he is responsible for not letting forward. He should not pass him except when sure of the ball. After losing possession, No. 2 should get back into his place at once, not forgetting that he is leaving three enemies behind him aofainst two friends. Good Nos. 2 are as rare as tenors. I con- sider Captain Renton (fig. 3), who was formerly Back for the 17th Lancers, the best No. 2 we have, when he is in a match and is at his best. He is a brilliant hitter and can gallop. Although 212 DUTIES OF PLAYERS Captain Rawllnson, who played No. 2 for the Freebooters, is perhaps more brilHant as No. i ; still as Two, he and Captain Renton stand out beyond all other players. Mr. Ansell, of the Innis- killings (fig. 6), who came conspicuously to the front in the last military tournament, is an extra hard hitter and a fast galloper, and requires only experience and picked ponies to take first rank. By Lord Southampton's retirement we have lost a brilliant No. 2. It is curious that though all players envy this post, very few ever become first class in it. A rare combination is required of great dash, brilliant and true hitting, unselfishness and sound tactical skill. DUTIES OF No. 3. Of all the players on his side, No. 3 has probably the most difficult part to play to anything approach- ing perfection. His, too, is a post where the most honest persevering exertion is little likely to be appreciated by the general onlooker. Back stands out alone, whatever he does or fails to do is obvious to everybody ; No. i, as satellite in attendance, is almost equally prominent ; No. 2, ever on the dash forward with brilliant runs, often shows in the van as a conspicuous figure ; but No. 3, overlapped in the midst of the teams, ever toiling backwards and forwards, now towards his No. 4, now after his No, 2, bumping a foe sometimes on this side Q/) « ^ >. V, c ^ o ^ CL ^ CO c nS r- or 1) r^ SING OUgl ngh. a _,QC0 -r. D CJ2 DOKH Captai Perta rt ^ L. '— DC •- <-(/J $^ rr 2 ■" -• d. 3^> ~ is: 10 pj Q 1 L. d 't ■t- U iJO ^ u. CJ U) ^^ — O i* li DUTIES OF NO. 3 213 sometimes on that, gives to the unlearned intelH- gence merely a vague idea of toilsome vigilance without makinof evident the result of his labours. As a matter of fact No. 3 is not second in importance to any man in his team. If there is one man in the four who is more than any of the others an all round reliable player, ready for an extra amount of hard work and blessed with cool steady judgment, that is the man specially cut out for No. 3. I played Back for so many years to the No. 3 of my brother (Mr. " Jack " Drybrough), one of the strongest players living, that I grew accus- tomed to seeinor Three do the most effective work of the team. Occasional experience behind such exceptionally good Threes as Mr. John Watson, Mr. Walter Buckmaster, Dokhul Singh, Captain Eoerton-Green and others, has confirmed me in my opinion that the post of Three cannot be filled by too strong a man. The Back must be a safe man, and the Three should be both safe and brilliant. In practice games the Nos. 2 and 4 are the most carefully selected, and the fact is taken for granted that they will do part of the work of the other players ; but for match combination a good No. 3 is imperative. Back depends upon him for support, and without a specially strong defence no team may hope to win a first class game. In last year's Champion Cup Match the combination of Messrs. Watson and Buckmaster as Back and 2 14 DUTIES OF PLAYERS Three was the strongest defence ever put In the field, and alone enabled the "Freebooters" to hold their goal for fifty-seven minutes out of the hour. For " Rugby," the Three of Mr. E. D. Miller, ever wisely busy and grandly supporting his heavier- weight Back, was a lesson in polo to every player who had the good fortune to witness it. No. 3's first duty Is to block the advance of the enemy's No. 2. " Never let two men on the Back," is the golden rule ; for though he can take care of himself as regards No. i, yet if two men are let on him, one takes the man w^hile the other takes the ball, and there Is fair chance that a goal is lost to his side. To prevent No. 2 eettlno- forward to attack, No. ^ must treat him in much the same way as No. i treats Back, that is to say, he should lie alongside of, or if anything slightly in front of him, nearer Three's own goal, with his pony's head pointing in the same direction as Two's, and ride him out if he attempts to pass. When he goes back to take a ball, No. 3 should rush him, if near enough to make certain of stopping him, and should either take the ball himself or spoil Two's stroke. But whatever happens. Three should be ready for a quick recovery. When possession of the ball is obtained. No. 3 should be careful not to go too recklessly ahead with It ; and If at all doubtful of clear way he should pass It, remembering that to miss, means leaving it with two enemies on the DUTIES OF NO. 3 215 Back. Defence should always be the first thought ; for if the enemy's advance is blocked, Three's own chance of getting safely forward must come in time. The young No. 3 is apt to get confused by the many duties on either side of him. He asks himself: "Shall I lie handy to help my Back?" " Shall I go up to assist my Two?" "Shall I go to the ball ? " " Shall I hug that opposing No. 2 ? " He cannot do all these duties at once, and by hesitating he does not succeed in doing any of them well. It is best to begin by blocking the No. 2, that is Three's first duty ; as it prevents two men getting on the Back. Racing wildly for- ward on the heels of his own No. 2, and leaving the opposing Two loose behind, is about the worst fault Three can commit and is the cause of many games being lost. Three having probably begun his education as a No. i in nursing the enemy's Back and clearing the way for his own No. 2, should continue the same method of play, except that he should block the Two as he used to block the Back, and should clear the way for No. 4 as he used to clear the way for No. 2. When Back makes one of his rare runs for- ward, No. 3 should drop in behind him and do his work till he returns to his place. He should not fall too far behind and need not mind if the enemy's Two rides away from him ; for that No. 2 will be the player out of place. It is better to go forward to meet No. 4, than to give him a needlessly long way to come back into position. 2l6 DUTIES OF PLAYERS As No. I was never allowed to come back to steal a ball properly belonging to his No. 2 ; Three must not now attempt to take one which is the obvious property of his No. 4, whom he must trust to do his own work. A jealous Three is a perpetual nuisance and " brinos the orame back" with him. Of course if Three sees that Back is not likely to get the ball he must do his best to help him, and should either take the ball himself or prevent an enemy getting it. He should watch Back carefully, foresee what he will try to do, and be ready to take the slightest signal by look, by inclination of the head, or by movement of the stick, without a word being spoken. If the Back, when looking over his shoulder, has difficulty in seeing where Three is, the word " here," or his name, is quite sufficient to enlighten him. It is not necessary to instruct him with *' Back-hancler hard this way," and such-like "duffers'" orders ; for he will know what to do, and if he has to change at the last moment to please his partner he may miss the stroke. On the other hand, Back should not be expected to tell Three where to go ; for if that player is in his proper position, Back will be quite content and can be trusted to speak when he considers it necessary. Although in preventing two adversaries get- ting forward on Back, No. 3 may at rare times have to ride out any enemy who tries to pass DUTIES OF NO. 3 2 1 7 him, he is specially responsible for No. 2, whom he should not leave with the object of looking for other enemies. Three is not to blame if his No. 2 weakly lets his particular opponent through ; still it is advisable to coach him when necessary, and to keep him up to his work, seeing Three cannot do his duty properly if Two neglects his. One of the most useful pieces of Information which can be oriven to Two Is lettlnof him know when he has time to steady. " Steady Two, take your time," will often let him make sure of a shot at goal, when, without the caution and afraid of interference, he might have risked an uncollected approach and easily missed his stroke. I need not repeat all I have said elsewhere about riding out and other matters, for which see General Duties, and remarks in sections describing duties of other numbers. The ponies best suited for Three are similar to those ridden by Back, who has not so much riding out to do ; for Three has two enemies to Back's one. He therefore requires a very strong bold pony, one capable of standing much fatigue, not easily excited by rough bumping, and not given to fighting w^Ith his bit when pulled about sharply. Mr. Walter Buckmaster (fig. 47) is unrivalled as a No. 3. He is a fine horseman, rides a nice weight (12^ stone), understands the game thoroughly, and having a true eye he has perfect 2l8 DUTIES OF PLAYERS command of the ball. Some good judges con- sider him the best player living. Mr. E. D. Miller (fio^. 48) is, I think, the hardest working and most conscientious No. 3 now playing. Well versed in the tactics of the o-ame, he hits straight, and gives great support to his fellow players. Mr. Neil Haig (fig. 6) is a tower of strength to the Inniskillings Team. He hits very hard, rides out irresistibly, and notwithstanding his weight, is a very smart horseman. Captain F. Egerton-Green (fig. 13) is an elegant player, hits with much accuracy, and having made a study of the game, works well into the hands of the other members of his team. If he has a fault it is that he is hardly rough enough for the present bumping style of play. Captain F. Wise (fig. 12), 13th Hussars, who is a left-handed player, deserves mention as one of the best Nos. 3 in the Service. He hits brilliantly, and is a grand supporter of the Back. DUTIES OF No. 3. By Captain F. Egerton-Green. i2TH (Prince OF Wales's Royal) Lancers. [Captain Egerton-Green is the leading spirit in the I2tl"i Lancers' Polo Club, for whose team he plays No. 3. On account of being a great enthusiast at the game, for which he has done much in his regiment, he has earned the sobriquet of "Polo" among his friends. He began polo in India, where he played as a member of the Royal Artillery team in the Inter-Regimental Tournaments at Umballa in the Elliott S; Fry.] Fig. 47.— Mr. WALTER BUCKMASTER, on his favourite Pony, Cyclone. W. A. Rough, London.] [To face page 218. Fig. 48.— iVlr. E. D. MILLER, on Captain Renton. Argentine Pony, Langosta. Played in Champion Cup, 1897. (See page 345.) DUTIES OF NO. 3 219 years 1886-7, and was one of the Edinburgh Polo Ckib team when it won the County Cup at Hurhngham in 1894. ^ value my friend's kind contribution very highly, and it is the more interesting to me because he wrote it before seeing my own notes on the same subject. — T. B. D.] The first duty of a No. 3 is to assist his Back ; his second duty Is to put the ball up to his Forwards, and to place It in the most convenient position for them, having reoard to the situation at the moment ; and his third duty is, when he sees a clear opening, to take the ball through and hit a goal. In the performance of the first duty the No. 3 should be ready at the call of his Back to ride off any particular man indicated, so as to enable the Back to Qret a clear back-hander or clear forward hit. In o-oino- towards his own croal the No. 3 should endeavour to get the No. 2 of the opposite side on his left, and to keep him safe till the Back has struck the back-hander. This needs care If the ground Is rough and the ball bumping, as the No. 3 should hold himself ready and not fail to ''wipe the Back's eye," if he misses his back-hander. The importance of placing the ball well for the Forwards {second duty of No. 3) cannot be over- estimated. A ball well placed for the No. 2 is better than a hard hit which the Back oets to and returns with a good back-hander. Also, oppor- tunities occur for the No. i to slip the Back, and 2 20 DUTIES OF PLAYERS then if the ball is put neatly up on the No. I's right hand in the proper position, he can dash away and be down at the other goal before the Back can catch him. If the ball had been hit very hard with bad direction, the Back would probably get to it before the No. i, and a back- hander would be the only result. Again, when hitting back-handers, especially if near the boards, the No. 3 can often place the ball so that his No. 4 can come forward with one rush before any one can get on to him. The Forwards are probably in locked pairs near the boards, and expect the ball to be hit straight back to them; but by calling to the clever Back, and putting the ball towards the centre of the ground, he can dash forward, slip his opposing No. i, and get away. Oppor- tunities of this kind occur often in the centre of the ground, when No. 3 is hitting a back-hander, and his Back is facing the enemy's goal ; in which case, the ball, well placed for the Back, means a run down if the Nos. 2 and i are attendino- to business. There is no doubt that for a No. 3 to be in the first class, he must be an adept at placing the ball for the other three men on his side. The remark that as Association football has become more and more scientific, increased atten- tion has been directed to passing or placing the ball for the other players, applies equally well to polo, in which the importance of passing or placing will probably become greater in process of time. DUTIES OF NO. 3 22 1 The third dtUy of No. 3 is the simplest and most gratifying, when he finds himself clear and with a No. i and No. 2 in front of him who have collared their men and mean to stick to them. Havino- called to them to ride off, he hits straight and hard, keeping the ball on that side of his No. I and No. 2 on which their adversaries are not, and should then make a goal, provided the ball does not bump too much. No. 3 may often be able to oet to balls hit towards the boards sooner than his Back, who is hampered by the No. i. especially if the No. 2 of the opposite side is hitting a back-hander, and the No. 3 cannot get to him in time to stop his stroke. No. 3 should turn as soon as the ball is struck, should follow it and hit the back-hander, which w^ill be easy for him to do, as in this case his particular adversary is not near him to ride him off. At this moment the Back almost invariablv has the No. i on him. To S2iin up, a No. 3 should be able to hit a good back-hander and to place the ball with accuracy. He should be thoroughly unselfish, and his principal aim should be to protect and assist his Back and keep his No. 2 fed. He should have a thorough knowledge of the game, which, perhaps, is more necessary for Three than for any other player, as he has to fit his game in with that of No. 2 and No. 4. He should strictly confine himself to solid work for the good of his. side, instead of aiming at personal brilliancy. 2 22 DUTIES OF PLAYERS which Is a temptation young players generally give way to in all positions in the game, and which here has fatal consequences. A No. 3 may do yeoman service to his side, hitting back- hander after back-hander and be hardly noticeable in the game, except to those of the spectators who are players themselves and understand the game. Probably the No. 2 will reap all the praise when the game Is over, but this Injustice should not discourage the youthful No. 3, who should remember that virtue Is its own reward. CAPTAINING A TEAM. The captain will naturally have considerable weight In the selection of the four players repre- sentlnor his club. In Reoimental and small Pro- vinclal Clubs, this will be a matter of but little difficulty, for the best men generally stand out prominent among the others. In touring matches some allowances must be made for men who can best afford travelling expenses, &c. ; but players so admitted should not afterwards stand In the way of better men representing the club In more serious engagements. In clubs with a large membership there Is apt to be much heartburning, as several players are sure to be about equal, and the men left out never can understand why they are passed over for others whom they consider much in- ferior to themselves. This Is especially the case when men who are brilliant at times, are excluded CAPTAINING A TEAM 223 owing to their selfish style of play or to what may be termed their incompatibility of temper. Some clubs, though possessing many good players, can never put a first-class team in the field ; simply because of petty jealousies, such as that of one man refusing to play if another takes a certain post next his, and so on. Selection by vote of the club is a poor method and is not likely to lead to a harmonious combination Generally, the two best men put their heads together and pick the other two with whom they can work in the most harmonious manner. The captain sees that the first team does proper practice preparatory to matches, and should have an eye to the capabilities of the ponies owned by his men. He also takes care that the secretary registers the club and makes the necessary entries for tournaments. In actual play the captain must study the tempers of his men, and should know who is the better for being bullied a bit, who requires patting on the back and encouraging even when making mistakes, and who is best left entirely alone, without being even spoken to. Petted players are a nuisance, especially those who will shut up and not try, if they imagine things are not going smoothly. Others are al- ways grumbling because the men next to them are not doing wonders. Unfortunately some '' erratics " are at times so very brilliant that they cannot be left out of a team. No man is in the 2 24 DUTIES OF PLAYERS same form every day, and If he Is trying his best, what Is the use of disheartening him by calHng attention to his failures ? Before a match begins, the captains of the respective teams toss for choice of goals. It Is generally advisable to play with the wind, down any existing slope, and to keep the sun on the right hand, so as to avoid confusing shadows. Faulty shaped grounds require special consideration. During play. If a captain finds his team a man short, (gone for a stick, &c.) he may be wise In ordering his side to hit the ball out of play — over the boards, or out behind. This course Is some- times adopted If ponies or men are fagged when the bell rings the end of a period. The captain should give as few orders as he can, and should credit his men with some power of taking the Initiative successfully. There Is no harm in keeping them lively with innocent chaff at unimportant moments. Mr. John Watson Is famous for this, but is much too wise to throw his tongue needlessly when there Is serious business on hand. When required, no man can coach his men better. '' Big man, Jimmy, will you let that leetle boy ride you off?" Is amusing and harm- less ; but I can't stand a captain who is eternally shouting " back-hander to the centre," '' turn your ponies," &c., as If all his men were Imbe- ciles. It Is worse than unnecessary to tell adversaries everything one Is going to do ; and I CAPTAINING A TEAM 225 if men are worth their salt, a look or a sign will generally tell them one's special wishes. Dur- ing many years when captaining my own team, I found that the caution "steady," and the order '' ride," were almost the only words I ever re- quired to use. The captain should encourage his men to play into each other's hands, and a player should always be ready to take a hint from, or give one to, the man next him, so that It Is only on special occasions the captain will be required to speak. As a rule he plays '' Back " ; more rarely, No. 3. As explained by Mr. E. D. Miller In Modern Polo, players should never use exclamations of doubtful meaning. For example, "all right" may mean that It Is all right for a partner to take on the ball, or "all riorht " for yourself and that he should leave it. Far better say " take It," or "leave it." A very annoying trick is for a player to ride as If about to take a ball and then sud- denly change his mind and leave it, afterwards exclaiming that he thought you were going to take it, though you never asked for It, All orders should be given in a clear, sharp tone that will command attention. "Strong" language, which is fortunately becoming a thing of the past, is not alone bad form, but is a vile habit, especially in some of Its more objection- able forms. When visiting other clubs the captain has 15 2 26 DUTIES OF PLAYERS certain social observances to attend to. Even in the excitement of a o-ame he at least should remain cool and courteous. When visiting other countries the customs of which are slightly dif- ferent to our own, it is specially desirable that through the example of the captain, the team should win golden opinions and leave only pleasant memories behind them. 227 CHAPTER X. UMPIRING AND REPORTING. I INTEND to write so fully on umpiring under Rule 4 (P^^^ 239), that I have little to say here. Most men dislike umpiring", partly because it interferes with their freedom of coming and going, interview- ing friends, &c., and perhaps, more than all, because it is at best a thankless task. There are so many different opinions on allowable liberties, and so many different interpretations of rules and tradi- tions, that it is hardly possible to give a judgment without running counter to somebody's ideas, and thus giving offence. Some old hands like umpiring in first-class matches, as in this way they best see the game, and occasionally beginners eagerly seek the post with the most refreshing confidence in their own abilities. If their offer be accepted, the other and senior umpire will generally "boss" the whole affair. An umpire is useless if he cannot hold his own. I will not go the length of saying that even if he gives a lijrong opinion he should stick to it, but he certainly should not let players know by his manner that he has any difficulty in 2 28 UMPIRING AND RP:P0RTING arriving at a decision, which he should deliver with the air of having no possible doubt about it. The umpire who hesitates loses the confidence of the players, who are then apt to grumble about the " rotten umpiring." A good umprie knows when to hear as well as to be deaf ; and although he will permit no liberties, he will make due allowance for excitement. Naturally it is difficult to find such a paragon. Some who would be excellent were they firm, are too good-natured and give in when they should not. Others, probably because they have been spoilt by co-umpiring with duffers, are so ex- acting that they ruin the game by their extreme self- assertion and by persistently ignoring their brother umpire. The fact of having often officiated as sole umpire is apt to spoil a man and to make him forget to keep a systematic position from which he can best co-operate with his confrere. It is not unusual to see an umpire coolly trotting about a hundred and fifty yards from anybody, where he cannot possibly see properly. Presently he will be in the middle of the game, galloping for his life, with the players shrieking at him to get out of the way. Occasionally, his pony stops a ball, and of course fouls are called for when he has his back to the game and is riding in the opposite direction. Some men, during play, seem to make a point of riding to the pavilion for balls, and when they arrive there, they indulge in interest- ing conversations with numerous friends. I have UMPIRING 229 elsewhere (p. 47) dwelt on the advisability of having sufficient margins to allow of umpires riding outside the boards when necessary. Most umpires have difficulty with the whistle, which they cannot always get hold of at the right moment. Sometimes it is swinorino- behind their o o back, at other times it is stuck fast in the wrong- pocket, and occasionally when found it refuses to sound properly. In fig. 4 there is an illustration of my whistle with rubber loop attachment which enables it to be worn on the back of the right hand, and consequently to be always ready for use. Hurlingham and Ranelagh have adopted this whistle. The selection of an umpire should never be left to the last moment, as that often means having to put up with a poorly qualified substitute. Nothing disgusts a good player more than having ridiculous decisions given against him by some youngster for whose opinion he has only contempt. Our best umpires will be found among such men as the players in Champion Cup Teams (Past and Present), Captains of the best Regimental and County Clubs, and playing members of the Hurlingham Committee. The follow^ing illustrates the humour sometimes attendant on umpire selection. Scene : a Tourna- ment in the Provinces. ist. Hon. Secretary : " Come and umpire like a good fellow, we want you badly." Other Hon. Secretary: "Awfully sorry, old chap, but I've no ponies." '' I've got 230 UMPIRING AND REPORTING two for you, hurry up." "But I-I-I don't know the rules." " Nobody does ; come, look alive." " But I'm beastly short-sighted." " All the better, they don't want )ou to see too much." He umpires and of course gives satisfaction as usual. Once when I was umpiring in a tournament something happened in a far corner, and one of the players thereupon galloped furiously towards me shouting, "You're our umpire, what do you say to that?" Having seen nothing, and believing that I was "engaged" for the other side, I sternly replied, "/ agree ivith the other 7tnipirey "Big big D," and he galloped off It turned out that the inci- dent was caused by two brothers wrangling as usual. Once after a game I was very politely challenged by a player for giving a wrong decision, the remark being neatly terminated by the oft- heard expression, " Umpires do their best, and of course you couldn t see everything." I suggested that my verdict was according to rule. " No," he replied, " I'm on the Committee, and made the rule myself, so I ought to know." I pro- duced the book from my pocket and handed it to him, with the result that after consulting it he said, " By George, you're right, old chap. Good thing I didn't bet with you." I was slightly taken aback last season in a Regimental Match by find- ino- that I had oiven a decision believinor that a cross or no cross was the matter in doubt, whereas, a foul crook was the subject in question. On one Hills & Saunders, Oxford.] Fig. 49.— CAPTAIN DALY. E. Gordon, Putney, S.W.] [To face page 230. Fig. 50.- The EARL OF HARRINGTON, on his Texas Pony, Savage. (See page 313.) During the last twenty-five years — at Hurlingham and elsewhere — no one has been a better friend to polo and polo players than Lord Harrington has been. REPORTING 231 occasion I saw a player deliberately lean his stick and arm over a pony's loins to hook a stick, a proceeding which elicited shouts of '' foul " from both sides, and of course I gave it. '' I didn't foul," cried the man in fault, greatly excited, and then added : ''I tried to do it, but he hit the confounded ball a hundred yards." An umpire should be careful not to stop a game for "crossing" when it is done by a player on the same side as the interfered man. In the case of shouts of '^ off-side," the umpire should not whistle till he sees that the player who is off-side commits a foul, by touching the ball or by inter- fering with an adversary. If the umpire always rides opposite the same Back, changing ends with him, he will then be in the best position to avoid confusing colours in cases of ''off-side." In concluding I may call my readers' best attention to Mr. John Watson's remarks on the desirability of having impartial umpires (see page 245). REPORTING MATCHES. Polo in London, being confined to Club Grounds only open to the privileged few, is not considered of sufficient public interest to be allotted space in the daily papers. The Times and some others may on special occasions mention that such matches as the Champion Cup and the Inter- Regimental Tournament have taken place ; but as a rule they very briefly state the fact without going into details 232 UMPIRING AND REPORTING of the games. There may be one or two excep- tions to this, as for example the Mor^iing Post, in which HurHnorham and Ranelacrh advertise their daily notices. Provincial tournaments, including the important ones contested at Phoenix Park, Dublin, generally pass unnoticed. Local papers often give fair accounts, but as their reporters seldom know much about the game, they have generally to trust to what members of the respec- tive Clubs tell them. It has been left to our weekly country-gentlemen's papers to supply more lengthy and trustworthy chronicles. Land and Water was the pioneer in polo reporting, thanks to the able articles by " Dooker," the late Mr. Moray Brown, author of the treatise on polo in the Badminton Library, and Polo Manager at Ranelagh. Writing with the greatest enthusiasm, he gave vivid and vigorous accounts of men, ponies, and play, which were read with intense appreciation by all polo players. Collecting information from all quarters, he was the first to supply really in- teresting polo literature. On his lamented death he was succeeded by his friend '' Stoneclink," Mr. T. F. Dale, author of The Game of Polo, who has now migrated to the staff of the Field, in which paper he has greatly extended the columns on polo matters. "A. W.," Mr. Wallis, now con- tributes the polo items to Land and Water, and ably upholds the reputation of that paper. As these gentlemen are engaged chiefly in reporting REPORTING 233 matches played in London, the descriptions of provincial games in London papers are usually their revisions of details contributed by amateurs. Polo players, all of whom like to hear how games of any importance are fought out away from home, are greatly indebted to these sporting scribes. Having wTitten a fair amount of ''copy" in my time (part of my duties in "booming" our Club), I offer a few hints to intending reporters. A copy of the " Card " showing what the match is, with names of players, &c., should always be given, and in the case of a tournament, the '' draws" and dates of play. Reference to past winners and present favourites and some details of the ground, weather and so forth, may be made. When the players get ready to mount, the reporter should take a good look at any men not known to him, so that he may not fail to recognise them during play ; and he should also inspect the ponies, and note their names and other particulars. It is a good plan to jot down the names of the ponies ridden by the players as they come out for each ten-minutes. A field-glass will be useful ; and it is well to sit up on a stand if there is one, and have a watch to refer to. The exact time when the ball is thrown in should be put down (we often make curious discoveries as to " time keep- ing "), and, as we take short notes on the play, we should keep occasionally marking in the margin 2 34 UMPIRING AND REPORTING the time by the watch. For instance, whenever the ball goes out, we should note the time, and say where it went out, behind, or over the boards. Besides making mention of fine runs, brilliant hits, ride-outs and other interesting details, we should keep jotting down the name of the side in whose ground the ball happens to be, and the moment it crosses the centre line. Without such notes, the general idea of the game in the mind of the reporter will subsequently be vague and im- perfect. In polo, events follow each other so fast, and are so much alike, that it is almost impossible to remember at what exact periods of the game particular incidents happened. By referring to our time-notes we will be able to tell exactly how long one side held another locked in their own ground, how often the ball was forced over the backline, when luck turned, and many other in- teresting points. Ordinary spectators have often most distorted ideas on these subjects. One man will assert that his friends had all the best of the game though they lost by bad luck in goals. '' They ought to have hit a dozen," he will say. Our notes will probably show clearly that they were never " in the game," and that the other side did the Q[oal missino: ; but we must not tell all the truth about the bad play, especially if we are the guest of the guilty man. Although we should respect men's feelings, there is no need to write flattering nonsense. REPORTING 235 We should remember that players are very touchy about reflections on their ponies. It is dangerous to say that any one was clearly faster than another ; for the go-bye may have been attributable to other causes than speed, or may for good reasons have been intentionally per- mitted, and the reporter may thus be easily led into flattering the slower pony. Sensible men do not believe all they read, and they always make a liberal allowance for ''gush." In reporting, it is wise to leave ladies alone, and never to mention their names. If we say nice things, they are apt to consider their expression in print as a liberty, and even if they like the notice, it is just possible that some of their lady friends will not. For the convenience of editing, reports should be written on one side only of large sheets of paper, leaving two and a half inch margins, and space for corrector's notes between each line. 236 CHAPTER XL RULES AND ANALYSIS. Hurlingham Rules and Regulations ; with Analysis — Bye- Laws — Rules of Measurement — Revised Rules for County Club Cup — Conditions for Cup Tournaments. Purlingljam lUilcs anb llcgulations. (With Analysis.) (For Knoivlcdge of the Rules of Polo, see page For facility of reference, I have indented the paragraphs relating to the opinions of experts. 1897. Height. I.— The height of ponies shall not exceed 14 hands 2 inches, and no pony shall be played either in practice games or matches, unless it has been registered in accordance with the Bye-laws. No pony showing vice shall be allowed in the game. The term " vice," besides applying to kicking, biting, savaging, jibbing, and similar forms of unruliness, includes bolting and other faults of HURLINGHAM RULES 237 mouth which prevent a pony from being under proper control in a game. He is dangerous if he cannot be guided, or pulled up in a reasonable distance. 2. — The goals to be not less than 250 yards Ground, apart, and each goal to be 8 yards wide. A full-sized ground should be 300 yards long, by 200 yards wide. The positions of the goals — here taken for granted as known — are at the centres of the back-lines. The words "8 yards wide," surely mean that there ought to be a clear space of 8 yards between the posts? (see further remarks, page 238) " A full-sized ground should be 300 yards long, by 200 yards wide." 300 yards long is generally approved, but 200 yards wide is open to question. The Hurlinofham oround, which is an irreoular oval, is only 160 yards at its greatest breadth. Ranelagh is 150 broad at one end and tapers to J 30. Edinburgh is 173 yards broad throughout. I think 170 yards might well be made the maximum, with 150 as minimum. A broad ground induces faulty cross-play, gives less chance to onlookers to watch the game, and of course the extra size adds to expense of rent and upkeep. A polo ground is a level turfed space, for choice a right angled parallelogram, bounded at its ends bv back-lines marked with lime wash, and at its sides preferably by side-boards 1 1 inches high (as at Hurlingham) and with the turf sloped against the 2^8 RULES AND ANALYSIS 3 boards, the rise commencing 9 inches from the boards to a height of 5 inches against the boards (as at HurHngham). A turf margin of at least 20 yards behind each goal is desirable, and at the sides it is best to have not less than clear 9 feet (12 feet would be better) between the boards and the foot- rail for sitters. Aa Hurlinoham there is only a width of 5 feet, which is rather little for players who are ridden over the boards, or for umpires when throwing in the ball. The safety cardboard goal posts are 1 2 feet high, 8 inches in diameter at their base, and 4 inches at the top. At Edinburgh, where the ground is exposed to strong west winds, the posts are 10 feet high ; 6 inches at the base, and 4 at the top. The distance between goal posts should be measured between the rims of the bases, and not from their centres, which in the case, for instance, of the posts being 8 inches in diameter, would make the free goal space 8 inches short of the 8 yards specified. If we ordered a contractor to make a gate entrance of, say, 12 feet in breadth, and he deducted a foot for the half-breadths of two gate posts, we would hardly consider he had executed the work according to order. Sise of Grotmds. — The Messrs. Miller, who prefer grounds 150 yards broad, tell me that in India, where boards are not used, the 200- yard- breadth is of advantage, as the ball does not then go so often out of play ; though it HURLINGHAM RULES 239 is easy to purposely hit it out when desired. I suppose Major Rimington was thinking of similar orounds when he wrote me that he preferred the 200-yard breadth " beciiuse it kept the ball more in play." Mr. E. D. Miller says he found when playing at Eden Park, a 200-yard broad ground, that the ball remained so long in play after the ten-minutes' bell rang, that the ponies got dead tired. I have played on this excellent ground, and would prefer it 30 yards narrower. Mr. Buckmaster and several others to whom I have spoken, approve of grounds 150 yards broad throughout. Captain Egerton - Green, Mr. "Jack"' Drybrough, and others who have played at Edinburgh where the ground is about 170 yards from board to board, prefer that measurement, but would not care for greater breadth. 3. — The size of the balls to be 3 inches in Size of balls, diameter. The balls used at Hurlingham, which are made of willow wood and are painted white, have for over ten years measured 3J inches in diameter. They average 4^ ozs. in weight ; and should never exceed 5 ozs. 4. — Each side shall nominate an Umpire, Umpire. unless it be mutually agreed to play with one instead of two : and his or their decisions shall be final. In iniportant matches, in addition to the Umpires a Referee may be appointed, Referee. whose decision shall be final. 240 RULES AND ANALYSIS The nomination of an umpire is too often left till the last moment. Sometimes sides are actually lined up to begin play before the necessity of having an umpire is considered. If the nomi- nation cannot be made at the time of entry, the name should be sent in by letter at least a few days before the match, so as to allow of its insertion in the programme. The nomination is of course subject to the approval of the Committee, who should be notified if any change becomes necessary. As one umpire cannot possibly follow all the phases of a game, it is always desirable to have two. The umpires should ride handy ponies. In all matches there should be a referee, who does not follow the game mounted, and is only referred to in cases of doubt as to the application of the rules or of usage. Umpires carry whistles and spare balls, and should dress so that there can be no risk of confusing them with players. They should see that their teams are up to time, and should superintend the tossing for choice of goals. The manager throws in the ball to commence a game, but at all other times it is thrown by an umpire. To avoid confusion, when teams line up, it is usual for one particular umpire always to throw in the ball after goals are made, and invariably from the same side of the ground ; usually facing the pavilion. This might be done by the umpire nominated bv the side winnino- the toss, unless HURLINGHAM RULES 24 1 Otherwise mutually arranged. During play it is a good plan for an umpire to ride as much as possible to one side of the Back of the team he umpires for, on lines parallel to the back-line, so as to clearly see off-sides and out-behinds, and to keep generally to his own side of the ground, as shown by a supposed line running from goal to goal. As it is difficult for umpires to decide through-goals, special watchers are frequently appointed by the Committee. When possible, umpires should keep out of the w^ay of players more by getting outside the boards than by galloping on before the players or crossing over the o^round. One umpire cannot veto another. Any differ- ence of opinion might be settled by consulta- tion between the two. The umpire nearest and so best situated for seeing should answer ap- peals. Unless the case is a very exceptional one, an umpire should leave the deciding of an off-side to the umpire understood to be specially w^atching the Back of the appealing side. It is a matter of etiquette not to usurp another umpire's obvious duties ; for instance, to speak when he is nearer. Only very exceptional cases would justify a departure from this well understood custom. An umpire finding himself forestalled by an over- zealous co-umpire who gave fouls when he was not nearer, and when the nearer umpire w^ould not have given them, would have a perfect right 16 242 RULES AND ANALYSIS to object and, If necessary, to appeal to the referee or Committee. Players should not stop to appeal, for the umpire's whistle alone stops the game. When a ball has to be thrown in over the boards, the umpire at that side of the ground performs that duty. When a ball is thrown towards the boards, the umpire for the far side of the ground throws it in. Taking evidence from a player or from an onlooker is apt to lead to ill-feeling, especially when a decision has to be made between contradictory statements, or when the onlookers may prove interested parties, and should conse- quently be avoided. There is no objection to consulting a co-umpire, which, when practicable, should be done without stopping the game, by inquiring briefly "How's that?" or "Did you see that ? " &c. Decisions of umpires, or of the referee are final, except that an umpire may recall his own decision on finding he has made a mistake. If he is wise he will not go back on a decision unless he can do so almost immediately after the occurrence. In cases of rough riding, doubtful crossing, &c., umpires may caution players without Inflicting penalties, but cases which admit of no doubt must be penalised. Umpires should call to order any onlookers who have the bad taste to give instruc- tions to players. Umpires (or goal - watchers) signal when goals are made, and when time- HURLINGHAM RULES 243 allowances begin. They signal ends of periods by whisde, and see that teams do not delay after the bell rings the '' ready " of each period. At the end of a period umpires should carefully note where the ball went out of play, and afterwards, on resuming play, they should make the teams take their proper positions. In a case of hitting out from behind, the umpire sees that the ball is placed according to Rule, either by the hitter-out or by a specially appointed person, and satisfies himself that the players have had reasonable time to take up their positions. It might be better if the ball was not hit out till the umpire gave the word " play." No player who has '' sneaked " within the prescribed distance should be allowed to touch the ball or interfere with a player. Umpires intimate the penalty of "ail-behind." Umpires always stop a game by whistle. When not favouring an appeal they may keep silent or say " no" or "go on," &c. When giving a "foul " the umpire should say " against " (naming the offending side) and shortly say "for crossing" or whatever it is : he need not name the offendino- player. He should then ask the captain which penalty he selects against the offending side. He should tolerate neither argument nor delay. While enforcing the avoidance of delay he should never show favour by hurrying a winning side, merely to ofive the losers a chance. In case of "foul" or "broken ball," &c., the 244 RULES AND ANALYSIS game is stopped from the time the event happened, which is signalled by whistle. When a new ball is asked for, the umpire should satisfy himself that it is really required, and if he finds that it is still in a fit state for play, the side in possession should be allowed to finish a run. If an umpire sees he has inadvertently permitted play which he should have stopped, he may, of course, whistle and stop the game from the period he ought to have ended it. In case of a ball over the boards the umpire should say "out." A ball once over the side boards is out, although it rebounds in or is hit in by a player before touching the ground, or rebounds off a player or pony which was at that moment beyond the boards. When throwing in the ball at the centre of the ground, the umpire should distinctly give the order "line up," and see that the teams keep at either side of a centre line, which is marked or imagined ; but he has no authority to place the players. Although he permits no delay, he will allow suffi- cient time for the players to take up their usual positions, and will then give the caution (not the question) " ready ", followed immediately by the word "play " ; at the same time bowling or throwing in the ball between the players. It is best that no player be nearer the thrower-in than say lo yards from the centre star. The ball should touch the ground before reaching a player, and have strength to roll about 20 yards after touching the HURLINGHAM RULES 245 ground. Players should leave room for the ball to pass between them. In case of overlapping, the umpire may delay throwing-in or recall the throw, and he may recall a faulty throw-in. He should not delay for restive ponies, or for players not ready or absent. When throwing over the boards or towards them he can order players to stand back to give room for the ball to hit the orround before reachinor them. In case of a fallen goal post, or one bent in by the wind, the umpire judges by where the post would have been if in its proper position. Experts all agree that a referee should only be referred to in the event of a question aris- ing as to the interpretation or application of a written Rule, or of an acknowledged tradition. The referee does not follow the ofame like an umpire, and he may (to use Mr. John Watson's words) " be off the ground." Such actions as crossing, foul crooking, foul hustling, play when off-side, &c., are decided by the umpires. Even if they differ in opinion as to whether or not these things have occurred, they can- not refer to the referee. It is unanimously agreed that one umpire cannot veto another. Mr. John Watson says very strongly, " I think it a great mistake that any side should claim an umpire as their umpire. There should be two umpires and they should not in any way be attached to either side, and I hold it 246 RULES AND ANALYSIS a great mistake if It were allowed to a side to question the decisions of the opposite umpire and appeal to their own umpire." This Is a sound judgment excellently put. Teams, how- ever, from being allowed to nominate their umpires, have got accustomed to speak of them, and perhaps to consider them, as specially appointed to watch their individual Interests. Umpires themselves, though honestly impartial, often consider that they are present specially on behalf of the team to whom they are credited on the card. When umpiring with a co-umpire I always ride out wide of the Back of the side I am asked to umpire for, In order to see that he Is not a sufferer from off-side fouls, but of course I have equal consideration for the opposing No. I, and I expect the other umpire to do as much for his Back. Many years ago a well-known player, writing In answer to a question I put, said : " You may appeal to either umpire, but you are more likely to get satisfaction from your own." My friend was a good judge of human nature. Mr. E. D. Miller points out that though an umpire cannot veto another, he might in certain cases suggest to him reasons for alter- ing a decision. It should be clearly under- stood that an umpire has the unquestionable power of recalling a decision made by HURLINGHAM RULES 247 himself. It is also agreed that an umpire may at his discretion take evidence ; which fact is important, because many people suppose that an umpire cannot give a decision unless he has actually seen the occurrence which is called in question. A player volunteering the statement that he had committed an un- intentional foul, is an example of evidence from an interested party which any umpire would accept, even if he had not seen the act. Tak- ing evidence from players is open to the objection of being injudicious, but is within the discretion of an umpire. The same remark applies to receiving evidence from onlookers. I think most good umpires rarely ask for evidence, but are occasionally influenced by what they may casually hear. If we admit that one umpire cannot veto another, it is obvious that the one who speaks, or who speaks quickest, always gets his way. Clearly then there must be a rule of play or of etiquette as to which ought to speak. Some say the nearer umpire ; others, the umpire who chances to be where he can best see. The Messrs. Miller point out with reason that it is in the interests of polo that either umpire seeing a foul should stop the game. It is easy to say that with good and impartial umpires no difference of opinion w^ould ever arise ; but 248 RULES AND ANALYSIS umpires are human, and ability is relative. I have on different occasions been much annoyed by a too- exacting co-umpire con- tinually giving- as crosses what I did not recognise as such, and of which, as nearer umpire and being better situated for seeing, I considered myself the better judge. I have heard an umpire boast that he had stopped play fourteen times in one match, during which the other umpire never blew his whistle once. Was the one umpire too severe, or was the other a " duffer " ? Without referring to this case, I may remark that some umpires fancy themselves immensely. They seem to think that they only have the faculty of observation, and love dearly to assert their brief authority. My opinion is that an off-side should be left entirely to the umpire watching the Back of the team fouled. If an umpire by any chance gets out of position, his co-umpire may then fairly act for him. In all other cases, i.e., fouls, where according to rule an umpire does not wait for appeal, I think that the nearer umpire has first right to speak. If an umpire acting with me did not seem to see a special case, I would call to him, ''Umpire, foul for — — "; and would expect him to whistle if he had not seen it, or to say " I think not," or words to that effect, if he judged the matter not sufficient to stop HURLINGHAM RULES 249 for. If he called to me, I would whistle, trusting to his judgment, or decline as already- instanced. I see no better way of giving a brother-umpire the option of saying yes or no. Exceptional cases may possibly arise where an umpire would not stand on cere- mony, but whistle at once. 5. — In all matches for cups or prizes the Number of number of players contending to be limited to p^^^'"''- four a side. In practice games less than four a side, but never more may play. 6. — The game commences by both sides How game , . , . . . . , • 1 11 i- .1 commences. takmg up then position in the middle 01 the ground, and the manager throwing the ball in the centre of the ground. One imaoines a line which crosses the o-round at its middle, or it is marked, as at Edinburgh. The thrower-in lines-up the teams before him, each in their own ground, and throws the ball in between them. He has no power to arrange the teams in any special order ; and simply allows the players time to place themselves as they please on either side of the said line. The best method of throwlng-in is referred to under Rule 4 (see page 244). At Hurlingham the manager throws-in. At many grounds a mounted umpire does it. 7.— The duration of play in a match shall be Duration of one hour, divided into three periods of twenty minutes, with an interval of five minutes between each period. 250 RULES AND ANALYSIS The two first periods of play shall terminate as soon as the ball goes out of play after the expiration of the prescribed time ; any excess of time in either of the first two periods, due to the ball remaining in play, being deducted from the succeeding periods. The last period shall terminate immediately on the expiration of the hour's play, although the ball is still in play. Exception ^" ^^^^ °^ ^ ^^^ ^^^ ^^^^ period shall be prolonged till the ball goes out of play, and if still a tie, after an interval of five minutes, the ball shall be started from where it went out of play, and the game continued as before, until one side obtain a goal, which shall determine the match. , The wording of this rule is faulty. It speaks of " periods " following the first two. Having defined a period as twenty minutes there can of course be only one. Probably half-periods of ten minutes are meant. The custom at Hurlino^ham has been to divide whatever overtime has been played during the first two periods (nominally forty minutes) over the last two ten-minutes of play, i.e., deduct it from them. If not worth dividing, it is deducted off the second last (penultimate) ten- minutes. When a ball goes out of play within one minute of " time," the bell is sometimes rung, and that one minute added on to the next half- period. If the game was regarded as consisting of six periods of ten minutes each, the scoring board would then show more distinctly than it does now, how far the game had proceded. The intervals might remain two minutes between each HURLINGHA:\r RULES 25 I ten-minutes, except after the second and fourth periods when five-minute intervals might be allowed. A ball is "out of play" (see second clause) when the game has been stopped for ajiy reason ; for example, — for a foul, a man injured, a broken ball, or a ball tramped into turf so as to be unplayable. In the " exception " clause the words, "game continued as before," certainly mean that stops for changing ponies are made every ten minutes as usual. This view is not taken by some few players whose error is made apparent if we assume that the play had lasted a long time with- out a goal, for instance, fifty-seven minutes, as in last year's Champion Cup. In such cases, it would be absolute crueltv to have no chanoe of ponies. I find that nearly all the players I have spoken to, reckon the divisions of a game as ist, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th ten-minutes, paying no attention to the twenty-minute divisions, except in so far as they mark the two longest intervals. The exceptional clause is understood as stated above. 8. — As soon as the ball goes out of play, after changing the expiration of the first ten minutes of each p°'"^^* period of play, the game shall be suspended for sufficient time, not exceeding two minutes, to enable players to change ponies. With the above exception, play shall be continuous, and it shall be the duty of the umpire to throw in the ball punctually, and in the event of unnecessary delay in hitting out the ball, to call 252 RULES AND ANALYSIS upon the offending side to proceed at once. Any change of ponies, except according" to the above provision, shall be at the risk of the player. * 9. — A bell shall be rung to signify the time for changing ponies, and at the termination of each period of play. This bell now means only that the " time " or '' termination " will have arrived when the ball goes out of play, except at the end of the hour's play. No game is ever stopped except by an umpire's whistle. A bell also rings the "ready" when rest intervals have nearly ended. 10. — An official Time-keeper shall be em- ployed in all important matches. For the general information and satisfaction of players a revised rule, as has been made by the Paris Club, might instruct the time-keeper to mark the '' times " on the public scoring board ; also allowances, &c. At Ranelagh a clock-face indicator is used. The need of a public board system of scoring is recognised by all the players with whom I have discussed this subject. In match play the important post of time-keeper should be gfiven to a reliable official who is free to devote his undivided attention to this duty. A secretary or manager, who has many other * Nezv Rule, May, 1898 {superseding the old Rule). 9. — The bell shall be rung to signify to the players that the ten minutes has expired, and it shall be rung again when the ball next goes out of play, to show the time for changing ponies. HURLINGHAM RULES 253 things to look after, and whose attention is con- tinually being called away to other subjects, cannot possibly keep time satisfactorily. The moment that the time-keeper sees the game stopped, he should mark down the exact time as shown by his stop-watch, so that when the game is re-started, which is often after a considerable interval, he may be able to make the exact allowance instead of ofuessincr it as is too often done. When an umpire calls " allow time," he trusts to the time- keeper being able to do so correctly. II. — A goal is gained when a ball is driven Goals. between the goal posts, and clear of the goal line, by any of the players or their ponies. 12. — If a ball is hit above the top of the goal Over top of goal posts. posts, but in the opinion of the Umpire, through, it shall be deemed a goal. Special goal-watchers or referees might be appointed, either to decide when a goal is made or to give evidence to umpires requiring it. At Paris, watchers carrying red flags signal each goal made. This rule provides for the case of a high hit ball. Other cases might arise which the umpire would decide under authority given him by Rule ^i,. For example, in case of a fallen goal-post, or a post blown off the perpendicular, the umpire would decide whether or not the ball would have passed between the posts had they been in their normal position. 2 54 RULES AND ANALYSIS The suoforestion to have o'oal-referees Is generally approved. 1 3. — The side that makes most goals wins To win game. the game. , „ 14. — If the ball be hit behind the back line Where ball to be hit by one of the players whose line it is, they from ; posi- tion of shall hit it off from the centre of the goal line players. between the posts, and all the defendmg side shall remain behind the line until the ball is hit off ; the attacking side being free to place themselves where they choose, but not within 25 yards of the ball. This penalty is not to be enacted should the ball glance off a player or pony.='' It is now customarv to draw a line showing- the 30-yards distance from back-line, and an arc indicating the 25-yarcls from centre of goal-line. " Behind the line," means behind the line just spoken of, namely, the goal-line, which must not be confused with the back-line. * Ne-iV Rule, May, 1898 {superseding old Rule). Where ball 14. — IJ the ball bc hit behind the back line by one of to be hit ^ ^j^^ opposite side, it shall be hit off by one of the side tion of whose line it is, from a spot as near as possible to where playeis. ^^ crossed the line. None of the attaching side shall be within 30 yards of the back line nntil the ball is hit off. If, hoivever, the ball be hit behind the back line by one of the players whose line it is, they shall hit it off from behind the goal line between the posts, and all the defending side shall, until the ball is hit off, remain behind their back line, ajtd bettveen tivo lines which shall be drawn at right angles to the goal line produced, from points ten yards distant from the centre of the goal on either side, the attacking side being free to place themselves lohere they choose, but not within twenty- five yards of the centre of the goal posts. The penalty shall not be exacted shozild the ball glance off a player or pony. HURLINGHAM RULES 255 15. — When the ball is hit out of bounds, it Ball thrown must be thrown into the ground by the Umpire Umpire. from the exact spot where it went out of play, in a direction parallel to the two goal lines, and between the opposing ranks of players. There must be no delay whatsoever or any con- No delay allowed. sideration for absent players. 16. — A plaver may ride-out an antagonist, or Riding out ' _ . an antago- interpose his pony before his antagonist, so as nist. to prevent the latter reaching the ball, but he may not cross another player in possession of Crossing, the ball, except at such a distance that the said player shall not be compelled to check his pony to avoid a collison. If two players are riding from different Definition of . . Crossing. directions to hit the ball, and a collision appears probable, then the player in possession of the ball (that is, who last hit the ball, or if neither have hit the ball, the player who is coming from the direction from which the ball was last hit), must be given way to. Provided that no player shall be deemed to be in possession of the ball by reason of his being the last striker if he shsffl have deviated from pursuing the exact course of the ball. " Ridlng-out," is the act of one pony shoulder- ing agahist another, often whilst galloping beside it, so as to push it out of its course ; but the aggressor in this case is not allowed to approach the other at a dangerous angle so as to risk knocking it off its legs. According to the Indian rules the ponies must get side by side, in fact touching, before riding-out is allowed. In England of late years very violent collisions have been winked at by umpires. It is a usual thing to see 256 RULES AND ANALYSIS ponies ridden together with such force, that one rebounds off the other, the struck pony often with difficulty keeping its feet. These shocks if re- peated are called "bumping," and when the riders also push with their own bodies, they are said to "hustle." This rough play is partly responsible for the increased size of ponies used. When a player sees he is about to be ridden -out, he some- times inclines his pony to meet his attacker, the better to resist the shock. In this case they often meet with much violence, and at very obtuse angles. As ponies bumping turn their heads from each other, and curve their bodies, it is difficult to judge the actual angle at which they meet. A o-ood horseman will often pull slightly wide of an adversary, then, changing his pony's leading- leg, throw him against the other pony. Umpires would do well to discourage obviously violent riding-out. The expression " interpose " should be used in a restricted sense, especially as regards players not in possession of the ball. Practically speaking, a player must 7iever interpose before an adversary who is riding fast, but he may interpose before any player, whether such player is in possession or not, if both are standing still or nearly so. For example : when a ball is thrown in, the player who first touches it is in possession, but any other player may interpose before him without fouling, always provided the first man has not fairly HURLINGHAM RULES 257 Started into a gallop. The same thing holds good in a scrimmage. At the boards, if two players approach at about a right angle, and pull up abreast to pick a ball out from below them, the hitter cannot claim clear way ; nor could he in the case of an adversary standing a few yards along the boards ; but if he once gets into a gallop, no player may pull in before him so as to make him check. An umpire would rarely give a foul against an adversary who chanced to be in front before speed was got up, and who afterwards did nothing intentionally to impede, or who tried to get out of the way. A young player must not imagine that he has only to touch the ball, thereby coming in possession, to have every adversary clear out of his way or foul under all conceivable circumstances. "In possession" requires explanation. The fact that a player touched a ball last can hardly be said to give him possession unless he has clear way to proceed with it and to get into his gallop. For example, if he is galloping level with another player and draws a ball under his own pony and under the adversary's, that adversary is not fouling because, instead of clearing out of the way, he rides out the hitter. It is only when a player is clear away with the ball that any adversary getting in front, so as to oblige him to check, commits a foul. Players are too apt to suppose that if they have last hit the ball they can go 17 258 RULES AND ANALYSIS anywhere ; that everybody must get out of their way ; and that any colHsIon will be the fault of the other man. As a matter of fact, no player is entitled to do a dangerous thing simply because he hit the ball last. Suppose for instance, there were two players, one in possession, the other galloping parallel with him but, say, a length ahead, probably waiting for him to come level to ride him out. Then if the man in possession on trying to hit straight forward, only heeled or toed the ball in the adversary's direction, he would not be justified in instantly changing his course and dashing into his opponent ; although most probably he would say he was fouled by the other getting in his way when in possession. Again, a player hitting a back-hander usually considers himself in possession and entitled to wheel and follow it ; but common sense says that he should take care that he does not wheel in front of an adversary who has not time to pull up or to avoid him. Also, although a player may volley a ball and hit through advancing players, he cannot dash forward regardless of whom he gallops into. I once saw a player who, on observing that the ball was kicked back by the hoof of a galloping pony, wheeled to follow the new direction of the ball and collided rather roughly with the man who had last hit it. Although each blamed the other, I think the man who wheeled was in fault ; because he did not use sufficient care, notwithstanding that HURLINGHAM RULES 259 he was following the new direction of the ball. While every player should use his best endeavour to get out of the way of the last hitter really in possession, the hitter himself is bound to look where he is going and is not entitled to risk a probable collision. A player loses possession the moment an adversary has entered safely on the course of the ball, at such a distance ahead (it may be by passing him at greater speed) that the last hitter had not to check his pony. The player so enter- ing on the line of the ball becomes virtually in possession though he has not yet hit it. He, having the same privileges as the previous hitter, may now slow as much as he chooses without fear of fouling. An adversary following behind should be prepared for this slowing, and should be ready to either pull, or pass at one side, selecting the side the player will turn away from ; but he has no right to follow directly behind at such a close distance as to risk a collision. A player, to remain in possession, must follow the exact line of the ball, and may not ride an arc out of the direct line to get better direction for his next stroke. In case of a ball reboundinp- off a side board he may not calculate the rebound and cut across to meet the ball ; that is, he cannot claim free course to do so, for the ball has taken a new direction, and the first rider coming in that new direction is entitled to possession. 26o RULES AND ANALYSIS Though a player once In possession may slow, he may not stand over a ball ; but even should he do so, no player has a right to gallop into him. An umpire should give a foul against any player standing over a ball to the dano-er of another rider. A player galloping to hit a back-hander, or to cut a ball, may not turn out his pony's quarters, in front of an approaching adversary, thereby risking a collision, to prevent him getting alongside. If an adversary be ridden out by one of the hitter's own side so that he is forced into crossing, the player in possession cannot claim a foul. A player galloping to hit a ball and followed directly behind by an antagonist, may not zigzag in front of him to check his approach ; but he may, however, ride straight for the ball, leavino^ to the last moment the question of which side he will approach it on, always provided that he does not then pull dangerously across the other pony's course. A player not riding for the ball may only zigzag in front of an adversary not in possession, if both have started from practically a stand still, and if neither has got up speed. No zigzagging is ever allowed at a gallop. Under no circumstances is a player at a gallop allowed to pull across so close in front of an adversary (''over his pony's forelegs ") as to risk tripping him. A player galloping forward with the ball and meeting an adversary coming towards him from the opposite direction, or overtaking an adversary HURLINGHAM RULES 26 1 riding on ahead, must keep the ball on his off- side if there seems a chance of a collision. This rale holds equally good for left-handed players. The fact that a player has been bringing the ball along with nearside strokes makes no difference. At the boards a player cannot claim clear way for near-side forward hitting, but must cross the boards and keep the ball on his right. If two players are equally entitled to get to a ball, that is, neither being in possession and both coming at equal angles to its course, they must yield mutually to avoid a collision. Although Rule i6 speaks of ''riding-out" as if only intended to prevent men getting to the ball, it is certainly permitted when players are not near the ball. There is a feeling that players should not in this way harass each other need- lessly ; but there is no written law, and no tradi- tion to prevent it. As a rule, experts do not care to say that the present style of riding-out is too rough, but it is evident from their remarks that they think it frequently becomes so. Thus, Major Rimington says : "I think riding in at an obtuse angle should be strongly put down by umpires." Captain Egerton-Green writes : " Ridinor would not be too roug-h if carried out as it should be, namely, by bringing the ponies alongside one another and then riding ont. It often becomes too rough during the 262 RULES AND ANALYSIS more exciting stages of a match, when players begin riding into one another at a decidedly ' healthy ' angle. After one player has tried 45°, the other retaliates by attempting some- thing approaching 90°, and the game then begins to resemble an Irish hurling match. This sort of ridino- out or ' charmng^ ' is objectionable, as it is extremely liable to injure ponies and to spoil their play. Umpires should put a stop to players dashing the point of a pony's shoulder into another pony's ribs." Captain Daly is of opinion that "a less violent form of ridino- out than that adopted by some players would be a good change." Mr. ''Jack" Drybrough thinks that riding-out " is often done at wrong angles, in a manner very injurious to ponies." The Messrs. Miller agree with my own remarks. Mr. John Watson says: " Players must under- stand what is fair riding-out and what is not. I am entirely against bumping and riding in at angles, but if you make rules too stringent on this subject you will be having eternal arguments. I think an umpire should be expected to blow his whistle and give a foul against any man riding unfairly, bumping unfairly certainly included." Experts agree unanimously that interposing is allowed, even in front of the man who last hit the ball, provided it is done before players HURLINGHAM RULES 263 Start galloping. In such cases, a player does not require "to check his pony to avoid a collision," in the sense intended by the Rule. As, however, some smart ponies can jump into a gallop in a couple of strides, great care must be taken not to swino- round in front of o them ; for by doing so a very rough collision might easily result. Being in possession only gives right of clear way at fast paces, not in scrimmages, in which case interposing is legitimate. All the ex- perts I have consulted agree that the last hitter must use caution as to the direction in which he gallops, especially when suddenly changing his course ; in fact he " must never act irresponsibly." Standing over the ball is almost unanimously condemned. Mr. Buckmaster says that a player '' should slow reasonably, not stand." Mr. *'Jack" Drybrough declares that ''he can slow, but must not stop and nurse the ball." Captain Egerton-Green remarks that "he should strike it without unnecessary delay." I need hardly quote more authorities, except to say that Major Rimington states (evidently ironically) : " If in possession of the ball, he may stand over it while all the other players shottt 'foul.' " Captain Daly is the only umpire I have consulted who allows standing over the ball. He says : "In some 264 RULES AND ANALYSIS cases I think a man is right to do so (and allowed). For instance, if when in possession of the ball he breaks or drops his stick, I think that standing over the ball is allowable to prevent an adversary getting possession." Here is a case of experienced umpires differ- ing over a very simple matter which might easily be settled by the Hurlingham Com- mittee. Zigzagging before a player not in posses- sion of the ball has called forth severer con- demnation than any other irregularity under discussion. Mr. John Watson says: "One thing I do think necessary for legislation, and that is that a player should not be allowed to intentionally harass and annoy a player on the opposite side by deliberately pulling his pony backwards and forwards across that adversary. If an adversary were in possession of the ball this would be a cross. Why should it be allowed when a player is not in possession ? " Captain Daly writes : ''I do not consider it sportsmanlike. It certainly is dangerous and should be stopped." Mr. Buckmaster "dislikes it as dangerous; an umpire should stop it." Major Rimington speaks of it as " this horrible zigzagging," and as likely to cause a pony to come down with possibly a fatal result. Captain Egerton-Green char- HURLINGHAM RULES 265 acterises it as "an exceedingly dangerous and most reprehensible practice, which should be stopped by the umpire." He relates that he has seen a player thrown down so violently in this manner that he was rendered insensible, and took forty-eight hours to recover con- sciousness. In short, all experts are against zigzagging. Tki'owing a pony s quarters 02U suddenly in the way of an opponent approaching at speed is a decidedly dangerous trick, which no one but an expert horseman can do. It is in- dulged in, fortunately, by very few of our best known players, and is generally con- demned. The fact that the pony of the offending player might possibly get the worst of the collision, in no way palliates the offence. Mr. '' Jack " Drybrough asserts that this practice ''is sometimes resorted to by Backs in self defence against unfair charging Nos. I, who not only dash up and drive the point of a knee viciously against the thigh of the slowing Back, but aggravate the offence by committing the attack needlessly after the ball has been hit away." I have often suffered from this foul and most aggravating style of "rushing" a Back. Impetuous Nos. i are very apt to adopt it ; because they know that it can rarely be detected by an umpire. 266 RULES AND ANALYSIS They will probably laugh and say they did nothuig- unfair, but "after mess," you will find them giving their chums glowing descriptions of how cleverly they did it. All the same, a Back should not take the law into his own hands, and retaliate unfairly. If really hurt, he should pull up, dismount, and cause the game to be stopped for "a player injured." It is true that that will not prevent his limp- ing about painfully for several days, but it will call the umpire's special attention to the No. I, and will prevent the other side benefit- ing by the foul. Keeping the ball on the right hand when necessary to avoid collisions, is most important. I may state that what I have written above on this subject is approved by Mr. E. D. and Mr. G. A. Miller, Mr. Buckmaster, Mr. "Jack" Drybrough, Captain Egerton- Green, and others. Some experts would like to see this matter, and also left-handed play, speci- ally provided for in the Rules. Captain Egerton -Green remarks truly that a player may take a ball forward on either side of his pony when no collision is imminent, but in near-side play he cannot complain if he finds his way blocked by an adversary riding ahead, in which case he cannot claim a foul. Major Rimington says that when overtaking an oppo- nent, " It is optional on which side you bring HURLINGHAM RULES 267 on the ball. The adversary can back-hand on either side so long as the ball is between the two players." If two men found themselves alongside each other with the ball between o them in this somewhat unusual position (that is on the left side of the man in possession, and on the right side of his opponent), they would naturally accept the situation ; but an adver- sary while galloping ahead would not expect this, and consequently the fear of giving a foul by crossing the line of the ball would naturally bias him to pull to his right. If a collision resulted from this, it would be the fault of the player in possession. Captain Daly wTites : "I do not agree with your read- ing of the Rules regarding the ball being kept on the right hand side overtaking a player. So long as the hitter keeps on the line the ball has travelled, I would allow a foul to him whichever side of his pony he brought the ball up." I think this matter might be put before the Hurlingham Committee. It is desirable to have a distinctly understood rule that when passing an opponent, no matter in which direction — meeting or overtaking — the player bringing on the ball must keep it on his right. If he does not do so, he cannot claim a cross, and he himself risks giving a foul by dangerous riding. I have known some players try to argue that an exception 268 RULES AND ANALYSIS should be made when a ball is played along the boards ; but they generally yielded the point when they considered and realised what confusion this would create. Crookin^ 1 7. — No player shall crook his adversary's suck. stick, unless he is on the same side of the adversary's pony as the ball, or in a direct line behind, and his stick is neither over or under the adversary's pony. "Crooking" means ''interposing" a stick be- tween the ball and an adversary's stick, on any part of the circle or arc his stick describes during the stroke, or while preparing for the stroke, so as to "hook" and arrest it or at least cause it to deflect from its proper course. It seems clear from the context, that the rule alludes to interfering with an adversary's stick, either at the mo7neiit of hitting at the ball or while moving the stick to do so. The dangerous and ungentlemanly practice of hitting at an adversary's stick in order to knock it out of his hand or otherwise harass him, even when he is not actually about to attempt a stroke, should not be permitted. Hitting violently at a stick even when a stroke is being made or prepared for, is not fair " crooking." When both hit simul- taneously at the ball, the violent collision is accidental. A question may arise in case of a player hitting at or pushing at a ball across his adversary's pony. Should the adversary hit at the ball at the same HURLINGHAM RULES 269 moment, their sticks may meet. In rare cases a foul might be given for crooking on the wrong side of the pony, but not in a scrimmage. Some players would like to see a stop put to hitting at balls in front of or beyond an opponent's pony ; but such a limitation w^ould greatly interfere with back-hand play. All good players when hitting back-handers are careful not to hurt ponies. The enemy who forces his pony under a hitter's arm, or within the swing of his stick, must take the risk. I find that slashing roughly at another player's stick to knock it out of his hand, or for the purpose of disconcerting him, is considered unfair by all experts. Captain Egerton-Green calls it not only '' unfair," but "also an unnecessarily irritating proceeding." Major Rimington says : "It is very dangerous and unfair ; therefore it can be ruled against." Mr. Buckmaster thinks that " Besides bein^r bad form it generally shows temper." Mr. "Jack" Drybrough points out that when this rough crooking is indulged in, players get their sticks struck back in their faces, and often have their fingers painfully injured. He would like to see a rule expressly forbidding it. Captain Daly and others agree that it is unfair. The Messrs. Miller consider, in com- mon with other good players, that, though hitting at sticks held head up is dangerous, \ 270 RULES AND ANALYSIS there is no objection to using a reasonable amount of strength when hooking or tapping aside a stick in a lowered position. Crook- ing is not limited to a mere interposition of a stick so that an adversary will himself strike it, but permits of what may be called a slight attack against the opponent's stick, but never to the extent of roughly harassing or of causing danger. As to the question of claiming a foul crook against an adversary who pushes away a ball across a pony, on the ground that his stick touches that of his opponent on the wrong side of the pony, it is agreed that the rule only contemplates deliberate and intentional crooking, but that it does not include the case of " poking at a ball " across a pony in a scrimmage. Offside. i8- — No player who is off side shall hit the ball, or shall in any way prevent the opposite side from reaching or hitting the ball. Definition of ^ player is off side when at the time of the ° • ball being hit he has no one of the opposite side nearer the adversaries' goal line, or that line produced, or behind that line, and he is neither in possession of the ball nor behind one of his own side who is in possession of the ball. The goal line means the eight yard line between the goal posts. A player, if off side, remains off side, until the ball is hit or hit at again. The words "in any way" cover cases of accidentally getting in the way. No. i is the man oftenest ''off-side." Even when doing his best HURLINGHAM RULES 27 I to get out of the way, he may at a critical moment so impede the Back that he interferes with his actions. Umpires generally take into considera- tion whether or not such interference makes any difference. They are in fairness bound to be liberal to the impeded player and should give him the *'foul" unless they are clearly of opinion that it was a matter of no consequence. This is a case where an umpire may delay for a moment giving his decision, or may even recall a refusal to give a " foul." ** Nearer the goal line" (See Rule i8). — As an umpire cannot see with such exactness as to measure by inches, he will hardly give '' off-side " unless a player's body is obviously clear of his opponent. For example, a No. i locked against a Back, both riding towards goal-line, would hardly be counted "off-side" if both men's bodies touched, even if the No. i was leaning forward partly ahead. But if they were riding across the ground or sloping, so that No. I's pony showed on the goal-line side, ''off-side " would be given at once. Regarding the last clause in the Rule, "until the ball is hit or hit at again," I may say that according to the wording of the Rule a ball moved by a kick from a pony would not count as " hit," and that a " hit at " made palpably out of reach and merely to put a friend "on side" should not be allowed. An umpire under Rule ;^^ could certainly use his discretion and refuse to consider a flourish 272 RULES AND ANALYSIS of a Stick at an impossible distance as a " hit at " under the meanina- of the Rule. All the same he should give the "hitter at" the benefit of any doubt. We may here note that the ball may be hit or hit at by a player on one's own side; being behind him is sufficient to constitute on-side, although there be no adversary ahead. The case of a man who has gone off the ground for a stick or pony, often causes trouble. In such a case, if he is outside the boards or beyond the end-line he may be considered out of the orame. Within these limits, he is in the game. Here again, an umpire mioht recall a decision. If he has doubts as to the moment the man crossed into play he should not recall it. Since writing the above I have been surprised to learn how differently expert um- pires count nearness to the back-line. The Messrs. Miller would give off-side if they saw a pony's head six inches forward. Cap- tain Egerton- Green judges by ponies' heads; Mr. Buckmaster, by "ponies' muzzles," and adds that "players' bodies are then likely to be in front." Major Rimington decides " by ponies' bodies, most certainly, for the pony and man are incorporate ; " Captain Daly "by a combination of the two" (that is, player's body and pony's body) ; and Mr. "Jack" Drybrough "by men and chiefly by positions of saddles. If one player obviously HURLINGHAM RULES 273 had his leg in front of another man's, which in riding out would give him turning leverage, he would be clearly nearest for off-side pur- poses." If I were judging a pony race I would judge by the ponies' muzzles or heads, but seeing that the polo rule expressly says *' player" and never mentions pony, I have always watched the relative positions of the two players bodies. I cannot admit that because a pony's muzzle shows six inches ahead of another, the rider must necessarily have the same forward position. By tighten- ing my reins I can bring back my pony's muzzle six inches without moving myself back that distance. The players' bodies, as shown by their seats in their saddles, not by their swaying shoulders, seem to me to indicate their relative positions in the best manner. As regards a player who has gone for a stick or a pony, the general opinion seems to be that he is out of the game when beyond the boards or back-line. An umpire could hardly be expected to at the same time watch the game and keep his eye on a player who had left the arena. 19, — No player shall seize with the hand, Rough play, strike, or push with the head, hand, arm, or elbow, but a player may push with his arm, above the elbow, provided the elbow be kept close to his side. 18 2 74 RULES AND ANALYSIS It is often so Impossible for an umpire to be certain of this kind of foul play, that the rule is practically in abeyance. Players are undoubtedly frequently guilty of it, and are sometimes cau- tioned, but I believe no " foul " on this account has been given at Hurlingham last year. When men make an effort to reco\'er their balance after hustling, they nearly always raise their elbows, but no umpire could say if they have pushed with them or not. Buttino- with the head has been stopped, and deliberate striking with the extended elbow is not now practised. I would be glad to see hustling entirely abolished as a coarse style of play, and riding out with ponies alone permitted. The Messrs. Miller tell me they have on rare occasions given fouls for pushing with the raised arm, but have more often merely cautioned offenders in order to stop rough play. I find that most experts either approve of legitimate body hustling on the plea that it is occasionally useful, or are indifferent to the subject. Mr. " Jack " Drybrough, who is a welter-weight, does not think it impedes a player much ; but a lighter man might have a different story to tell. My view that it would be better if it were altogether abolished is, however, shared by Captain Daly, who writes : " Yes, I think it would be a veiy great improvement : riding out with ponies HURLINGHAM RULES 2/5 requires better horsemanship, and is in my opinion very much more efficacious." He further adds that body husthng '' leads very often to loss of temper, and from my experi- ence is of very little use in bothering a passive adversary, i.e., one who refuses to hustle back." A few years ago hustlers used to butt with their heads like groats or nio-crers, and the hustled ones retaliated roughly by putting the offending head *'in chancery," pressing it against the pommel of the saddle, or perhaps by accidentally (?) sounding it with the butt end of the polo stick. When this head work was prohibited, there was nothing left better than to hustle with raised arm and to punch the adversary on the eye with the elbow, or as a slight variation, to press clown on his rein- ^hand so that he could not guide his pony. English hustlers have never quite gone as far as the merry Texas cow-puncher who, it is said, to save a goal will catch an adversary lovino^lv round the neck and drao- him off his pony. I have had a friend throw himself so self-sacrificingly over my pony's withers that his own mount went out below him, leaving me to clutch and support him for fear he mio-ht fall and break his neck. These good old days have passed ; but It the ma- jority of players still like body bumping, there is no reason they should not enjoy themselves as far as the rule permits. 2/6 RULES AND ANALYSIS Carrying 20. — A player may iiot caiTy the ball. In the event of the ball lodging upon or against a player or pony, it must be immediately dropped on the ground by the player or the rider of the pony. If there be not time to drop the ball, the goal would count. 21. — No player shall intentionally strike his pony with the head of his polo stick. A foul should not be given for using the handle end of the stick. Penalty for 22. — Any infringement of the rules Constitutes foul. ^ ^ . . a foul. In case of an infringement of Rules i6, 17, 19, 20, and 21, the Umpire shall stop the game ; and in case of an infringement of Rule 18, the Umpire shall stop the game on an appeal by any one of the side which has been fouled. On the game being stopped as above, the side which has been fouled may claim either of the following penalties. (rt.) A free hit from where the ball was when the foul took place, none of the opposing side to be within 10 yards of the ball. {b.) That the side which caused the foul, take the ball back and hit it off from behind their own goal line. Procedure is not stated for infringements of Rules 27, 28, 29, &c. (see respective notes on them). It is a mistake to suppose that players cannot be ordered behind their goal-line. If the free hit is from say 5 yards in front of the goal-line, the other side must stand 5 yards behind their goal- line. We should discriminate between'' poal-line " and "back-line," the difference between which is HURLINGHAM RULES 277 sometimes overlooked. "Behind" means close behind : almost on the goal-line. A.s regards clause (a.), it is agreed that a ''free hit" cannot be interpreted to include an "attempted hit" when the ball has been missed. A few players would like that a miss should count as a hit, but others prefer the Rule as it stands. One or two experts think it rather hard that a defending side may be ordered some yards behind their own goal-line where they cannot possibly save their goal. Captain Egerton- Green perti- nently answers this objection as follows : — " It seems to me that the Rule here should hold good ; for the temptation to foul is greatest near one's own goal. As a foul is often resorted to as a last chance of saving the goal, the penalty should be severe." 2^. — In the case of a plaver being disabled Penalty for •J f ^ o disabling a by a foul, the side who has been fouled shall player, have a right to designate any one of the players on the opposite side who shall retire from the game. The game shall be continued with three players a-side, and if the side that causes the foul refuse to continue the game, it shall thereby lose the match. This penalty shall be in addition to that provided by Rule 22. 24. — Ends shall be changed after every goal, Changing 1 ir • ends. or if no goal have been obtained, after half-time. 25. — The ball must go over and clear of the b.iII out. line to be out. If a ball goes over the side-boards it is "out," 2/8 RULES AND ANALYSIS no matter if it comes In aorain. The fact of its being hit in the air by a player or pony before touching the ground makes no difference ; It Is " out " all the same. Throwing in 26.— If the ball be damaged, the Umpire ^ ■ must at once stop the game, and throw in a new ball at the place where it was broken, towards the nearest side of the ground, in a direction parallel to the two goal lines and between the opposing ranks of players.* It Is difficult for an umpire always to see if a ball Is damaged to the extent contemplated by this rule. He should satisfy himself before whistling. Nearly all balls are slightly chipped, and the " side" which Is In danger of losing a goal Is apt to call for a new ball unnecessarily. An umpire may Interpret the word "damaged" liberally, and Is entitled to take Into account wdien the side in possession Is clear away with it. He may at his discretion allow them their run, and then whistle and throw In a new ball from where they lost It. I find that the foregoing remarks meet with general approval. * Neiu Rule, May, 1898 [Superseding old ride) : Throwing in 26. —If the ball be damaged, the Umpire shall, at his discretion, stop the game and throw in a new ball at the place where it was broken, towards the nearest side of the ground, in a direction parallel to the two goal lines and between the opposing ranks of players. N.B. — // is desirable that the game shall be stopped and the ball changed 7vhen the damaged ball is in such a position that neither side is favoured thereby. iiUKLlNGHAM RULES 279 Major Rimington observes that " the only player who suffers from a ball being damaged is the man making the run." Mr. E. D. Miller puts the matter very fairly as follows : — '* The game does not stop until the umpire blows his whistle, and he should not do so on appeal till he satisfies himself that the ball is damaged to an extent to affect accuracy of play. As far as possible, umpires should stop the game only when the ball is in such a position that the fact of the game being stopped is not an advantage or disadvantage to either side, as in the case of a run." 27. — Should a player's stick be broken, he Broken must ride to the place where sticks are kept ^^"^'^^• and take one. On no account is a stick to be brought to him. There is no fixed place ; anywhere outside the arena being meant. If a stick is brought on to the ground to a player, an umpire could refuse to allow him to join in the game till he has crossed the boards or back-line. 28. — In the event of a stick being dropped, Dropped the player must pick it up himself. No dis- mounted player is allowed to hit the ball. '' Pick it up himself," infers that a groom, for instance, may not come on the ground to do it. A slovenly habit of leaving the stick lying, and riding off for another, has crept in, but is not 2 8o RULES AND ANALYSIS objected to. One player may give his stick to another. Dismounted players cannot in any way impede opponents ; they must get out of the way. The penalty in Rule 22 would apply in this case. Ground kept 20. — No persoii allowed within the arena- clear. players, umpires, and Manager excepted. This rule is aimed against grooms bringing fresh ponies, sticks, &c. Accidents. ^o. — If any player or pony fall or be injured by an accident the Umpire may stop the game, and may allow time for the injured man or pony to be replaced, but the game need not be stopped should any player fall through his own fault. ''May stop" practically means '" must stop," for the only exception is given. An umpire how- ever, may allow a run to be finished as stated further on. An accident to a player means some- thing serious enough to impede his play. I have known men dismount and stop a game for a blow on the fingers, or for a rough ride against the thigh, both of which injuries would certainly impede play. A bit of mud in one's eye would rarely be serious enough. An accident to a pony would not include his going slightly lame without being- struck by stick or ball, or without collision. Very slight temporary lameness from a blow would hardly count, but a bad break-down or severe lameness from any cause would justify stopping. On special occasions, as for example when a goal HURLINGHAM RULES 28 I has been hit, an umpire may take Into account that an accident happening" far from the player In possession, could not have affected the game. Broken girths, loose bandages, and such like Inci- dents are not accidents. Should a pony's bridle get entangled with a stick or bit, the two players must do their best to disentangle It, pulling up if necessary ; but the game should not be stopped unless the bridle is broken so that the rider has not control of his pony, or the umpire is appealed to because of danger to a rider. As it Is difficult to know with any degree of certainty whether a rider falls oft from his own fault or from uncontrollable accident, an umpire generally giv^es him the benefit of the doubt. In the case of ponies' bridles becom- ing fast together, or entangled with sticks, some experts say they would stop the game, others aver they would not. The nature of the decision would no doubt depend upon the special circumstances of the case. All experts are agreed that they would stop the game if they saw danger, as for example. If a pony reared, or if they considered that the player who caused the entanglement was to blame. I think that If a player stops his pony to oblige an adversary who begs him to do so, both should call to the umpire, and that he should whistle. Needless to say the matter rests with the umpire. 282 RULES AND ANALYSIS Where ball 3^- — O^^ P^^Y being resumed, the ball shall thrown in. ^^ thrown in, where it was, when the game was stopped, and in the manner provided for in Rule 26. Disregard- 32.— Any deliberate disregard of the injunc- ing Umpire's . . , ,, • ij- ^■n decision. tions of the Umpire shall involve the disqualih- cation of the team so offending.* An umpire may caution players In cases of doubtful rough-rlding, doubtful crossing, &c., with- out Inflicting penalties. In cases which are beyond doubt, he must give a penalty. Umpire's 33- — Should any incident or question arise decide^all ^^at is not provided for in these Rules, such disputes. incident or question to be decided by the Umpire, t (A ball tramped into the turf, unplayable, for example.) Spurs and Bye-law No. 9. — No blinkers, or spurs with Blinkers. rowels, allowed except on special occasions when sanctioned by the Committee. This Bye-law is really a Rule. I may point out ihat ponies blind of an eye are nearly as dangerous as those with blinkers. An umpire would not * JVew Rule, May, 1898 {The old rtde No. 32 Left-handed ^^°'^" becomes No. 33 in the 1898 edition) : 32.—//' players. /-^.^ players are riding from opposite directions to hit the ball, one of these being a left-handed player, the latter must give way. t New Rule, May, 1898 {The old rule No. 33 now becomes N'o. 34 in the 1898 edition) : 33. — Any deliberate disregard of the injtmction of the Ufnpires shall involve the disqualification of the team so offending. hurlingha:^! rules 283 allow a player to intentionally intimidate an ap- proaching pony by flourishing a whip. There might be a law as to left-handed players.* It is understood that a left-handed player must give way to a right-handed one. For ex- ample, if two men coming from opposite direc- tions pass, they must both keep the ball on their right hands. Again, if a left-handed man brings the ball down the ground on his near side and overtakes an opponent riding for a back-hander, that opponent may as usual keep to the right of the course of the ball, in which case the left-handed man can take the ball only on his right or off-side. " Bluffing." No player should shout unneces- sarily at an adversary, as though he were crossing or as though a collision were imminent, in a manner likely to distract his attention or put him off his game. An umpire may under Rule 2)3 stop such conduct. '■'■'' The lazv suggested has been made, see Rule No. 32 (1898). 284 RULES AND ANALYSIS ^ (1898.) Officers elected to serve on Polo Com- mittee. Registration of ponies. Ponies to be measured. Time shortened. Time. Registra- tion. Ponies property of Club, &c. Spurs and blinkers. I. — Every Regiment and every registered Polo Club which is not already represented shall have the right to send one officer or member to represent the Regiment or Club on the Polo Committee, provided that such representatives be members of Hurlingham. 2. — A book shall be kept by the Manager in which all ponies shall be registered with sufficient particulars for the purpose of identi- fication. 3. — All ponies may be registered if adjudged not to exceed the prescribed height when measured according to the Rules of Measure- ment. 4. — In order that all members may play during the afternoon, the Manager shall have power to shorten the time, and stop the Match or game at the appointed hour. If a Match is timed to commence at 4, 5.20 shall be the time at which it may be stopped. 5. — On ordinary days, in case of a match taking place before the members' game, such match must finish at 5, unless by special leave from the Committee. This does not apply to the tie games in Cup Competitions. 6. — All Polo Clubs must be registered with the Manager on May 15th in each year. A Book of Rules and Members of such Club to be forwarded at time of Registration. 7.— In matches for cups or prizes the ponies must be bond fide the property of the Club or Regiment contending. 8. — No blinkers, or spurs with rowels, allowed except on special occasions when sanctioned by the Committee. RULES OF MEASUREMENT 285 Q. — Not more than four players on each side ^°^^ ^ r y players. are allowed to play ; the members arriving first at the pavilion to be allowed precedence. Precedence ID. — The Umpire shall be required to carry a whistle, which he shall use as required. Whistle. II.— If, in the opinion of the Manager, the ground is in a fit state for play, it shall be opened for not less than six players, at 3 o'clock Time of each day, Fridays excepted, when the ground being opened and is closed.' Each set of players shall be allowed shut. the use of the ground for 20 minutes. All play shall cease and the ground shall be cleared by 7.15 p.m. 12. "The colours of the Hurlingham Club Colours, shall be light blue shirts. The second colours white and red. In members' matches every player shall wear a white shirt or jersey, the sides being distinguished by red and bluet waistcoats, supplied by the Manager. fiUcs of ||lC(isurcmeut. (1898.) I. — The measurement shall be made by an official Official Measurer under the supervision of the Measurer. Polo Committee. Such Official Measurer shall be appointed by the Committee and shall be a duly qualified Veterinary Surgeon.:]: 2.— The Official Measurer shall attend for , ^ J Time of the purpose of measurmg ponies on the first day measure- in the season on which the ground is open for play, and on certain subsequent days which shall be advertised in due course. * T/iere are now iu>o grounds, and play every day. + Bhie are not tvorn j70W. ^ Sir Henry Simpson officiates. 286 RULES AND ANALYSIS Description of pony to be signed, and fee paid. Age of pony. Condition of pony. Standard and place of measure- ment. Access to measuring Position of pony and standard. Holdins pony. 3. — The person presenting a pony for measure- ment shall fill up and sign a form, supplied by the Club, containing particulars and a description of the pony, and shall pay to the Manager a fee to be fixed by the Committee before the pony can be measured. 4. — Ponies aged 5 years and upwards may be measured and registered for life ; ponies under 5 years can be registered for the current season only. The Official Measurer shall determine the age of the pony. 5. — A pony shall not be measured if he appears to have been subjected to any improper treat- ment with a \'iew to reduce his height, or if he is in an unfit state to be measured. If a pony is rejected under this Rule, he shall not be presented again for measurement until the following season. 6. —The measurement shall be made with a standard approved by the Club,* and in a box with a level floor specially erected for the purpose. 7. — Neither the owner of the pony nor his servant shall on any account enter the box during the measurement, nor shall any other person be admitted unless specially authorized by the Official Measurer, but members of the Polo Committee shall have a right to attend the measurement when their own ponies are not being measured. 8. — -The pony shall stand stripped on the level floor, and the measurement shall be made at the highest point of the withers. 9. — The pony shall be held by a person deputed by the Official Measurer. * Captain Raivlinson'' s fateut — 7vith sn'ivel top ba) — is used. RULES OF measuremp:nt 287 10.— The head shall be so held that a line Position of from the poll to the withers would be parallel ^'^^^' to the floor. ir. — The forelegs from the point of the Legs, shoulder, and the hind legs from the back downwards, shall be as perpendicular to the floor and as parallel to each other as the con- formation of the horse allows. 12. — The wither may be shaved, but the Hair and mane must not be pulled down, or the skin of the neck or wither in any way interfered with. 13. — Ponies may be measured with or without shoes. shoes, but no allowance shall be made. 14. — Any person who is dissatisfied with the Appeal, determination arrived at may by a written application, presented to the Manager within seven days from the time of measurement, apply for a re-measurement. Such re-measurement shall take place in the presence of two members of the Polo Committee, and on the first con- venient day which may be appointed, and their decision shall be final. HURLINGHAM CLUB. Form for Description of Pony presented for Measurement. Owner's Name. Ponj^'s Name. Colour. Sex. Asre. Distinctive Mark.-- Date Signature of Owner. 288 RULES AND ANALYSIS licbiscir fiiles for Caimtn Chib Cup/' (1898.) (Open to all registered County Clubs.) I. — All Polo Clubs must be registered with the Manager on May 15th in each year. A Book of Rules and Members of such club must be forwarded at time of registration, and no player is eligible to play for his Club in the County Cup unless his name appears on such list of Members. 2, — Any Member playing for his Club must be a resident in the county where such Club has its ground, or reside within 50 miles of the Club ground. No player is eligible to play for his Club unless he has played on at least six different days on the Club ground during the past season, or on six different days during the present season, in Club games or matches. 3. — The team which has played for the Open Cup, and won the same during the last three years is not eligible to contend, and not more than one player of such a team may play in the same team for his Club. 4. — Any players eligible to play for their universities in the inter-university match may play for Oxford and Cambridge University Clubs, provided that they fulfil the necessary qualifications in other respects. 5. — A residence within the Metropolitan area of London cannot act as a qualification for any Club. 6. — Ranelagh and Hurlingham are not eligible to contend. *" The County Polo Chtbs Association has taken the County Club Clip Tounia/zient binder its fiianage- rnent. COUNTY CLUB CUP RULES 289 7- — The fact of an officer being quartered in the neighbourhood does not constitute a resi- dential quahfication ; with the exception that an officer with a mihtia, volunteer, yeomanry, or staff appointment for not less than three years, and who has not played for his regiment in the Regimental Tournament of the same year, is ehgible to play for his Club. 8- — Entries to be made in writing to the Manager at least ten days previous to the date fixed for the first game, giving the names and addresses of each player. And a certificate must be furnished by the Captain or Secretary of the Club at the same time that the necessary conditions as to qualifications have been fulfilled by all the players entered. The Manager shall not accept an entry from any Club, unless it is registered according to Rule i. 9- — The Captain of each team on entering to deposit Five Pounds with the Manager, which shall be returned on the Tournament concluding. Should the team be scratched, the Five Pounds shall be forfeited and go to the team which is second. 10. — In the event of one of the players being prevented from playing for some reason that the Polo Committee may consider bo7ia fide, they may allow another man, a member of the same Club and properly qualified, to be nominated in his place ; such substitute cannot be taken from a team entered for County Cup unless the same is scratched. II-— The ponies played must be bond fide the property of a member of the Club. 12.— The decision of the Hurlingham Com- mittee on any point is final. 19 290 RULES AND ANALYSIS Coniiitions for Cuf ffiaurnameitts. (1898.) CHAMPION CUP CONDITIONS. Open. J — Open to any Polo Teams. Entry form. 2. — The entries, naming colours, to be made on or before 5 p.m., on the Saturday prior to the week of competition. Draw. 2- — The respective Teams to be drawn, and the said draw to take place on Saturday, at 5 p.m., prior to the week of competition. Name The Captain of each Team to name his four Players. . players at time or entry. 4. — In the event of one of the players being prevented from playing from some bo7ia fide Substitutes, good reason, the Polo Committee may, if they think fit, allow another man to be nominated in his place ; such substitute must not, however, be taken from among the players selected in any other Team. Threeteams. 5. — Unlcss three Teams contend the Cup will not be given. Tie. 6. — In case of a Tie between two Teams, it must be played off the same day till one Team obtain a Goal, always excepting both Teams electing to postpone. Speight, Rugby.] Fig. 51. -Messrs. MILLERS Stud Pony, Spring Hill II. By Rugby, dam, Octagon. (See page 297.) {To face page 290. Fig. 52.- Mr. W. H. WALKERS favourite Pony, Cicely. (Brood Mare.) 291 CHAPTER XII BREEDS OF PONIES. Breeds used for Polo — English — Arab — Cairo — Barb — United States of America : —Texas, Indian Territory, Wyoming, Colorado, Montana (and Idaho), and Californian — Mexican — Argentine — Sundry Breeds (including Russian). Ponies used for polo in England may be divided roughly into British and Irish bred, North Ameri- cans (United States ponies), South Americans (Argentines), Arabs of sorts (Arabs, Syrians, Egyptians, &c.), and Barbs (from Tunis and Algiers). Besides these, there are a few " Sun- dries," such as Indian Country-breds, Cape Ponies and Australians ; but their number is so small that they are hardly worth mentioning. If all British bred ponies were nearly as good as a few of the very best now playing, and could be got in sufficient numbers at prices to suit the pocket of the average player, there would be little need of looking beyond our own Isles when making purchases. Unfortunately, really high class Eng- lish " made " polo ponies are few and far between ; 292 BREEDS OF TONIES which assertion is proved by the long prices paid for them, and by the fact that many players find it necessary to fill their stables partly with foreigners. The English blood horse as racer or chaser is without doubt the best in the world, and polo sufficiently resembles the work for which he is bred to make it desirable to select such dwarfed specimens of his stock as may be procurable, although some slight differences in shape are neces- sary. The horse of conformation suited to win a race over a straight mile with not more than eight stone up, is not the type of animal required to carry twelve stone or more during the fatiguing turnings and twistings of polo on a cramped three- hundred-yard ground. Nevertheless, there is at present no distinct breed better fitted for polo purposes than carefully selected specimens of the thoroughbred. As the English blood horse is bred with a view to his being about 6 inches above polo height (14.2), it stands to reason that the few chance dwarfs procurable must be rare indeed. As from these must be weeded out all the weakly unsuitable ones, and only those selected which, taking size into account, are proportionally more powerful than the average of full sized thoroughbreds, it can easily be understood how extremely difficult it is to find even the green article out of which to manufacture the "made" polo pony. The next best animal is a pony which, while PONIES FOR POLO 293 coming under the designation " half-bred," is in reality of very nearly pure blood. Practically, if not theoretically, this flaw in the pedigree may be an advantage ; for with it strength, with sufficient speed, can be more easily obtained, and perhaps some of the constitutional delicacies generally ascribed to the too lono- inbred and hothouse-reared thoroughbred may be eliminated. In this respect the best of the foreigners has a distinct advantage. In saying this, I refer more particularly to ponies sired abroad by English blood horses. A judicious cross with hardy native stock, probably containing a dash of the thoroughbred, together with the free life and frequent vicissitudes of upbringing, may be of the greatest value in producing right-sized ponies well suited for polo and having the advan- tage of exceptionally hardy constitutions. Any one who has attempted the task knows how difficult it is to find moderately promising English ponies, even raw material. Running about looking at every pony said to be a likely one is a hopeless not to say an expensive business. Given a pony once found, the purchaser has to encounter the delays, labours, and risks of training, conditioning, &c., which may entail the work of a year or two, with considerable chance of non-success. We are relieved of a large portion of this trouble and expense by the supply of mature ready-trained foreigners, many of which are often shipped at a time, so that there is a choice to select from. 294 BREEDS OF PONIES These ponies have been carefully picked by polo experts, can sometimes be seen or tried playing, and their prices are comparatively moderate. As experience has proved that many of them are first- class performers, a demand has arisen, followed by an increasing supply, though as yet insufficient to meet existing wants. The statement often made that no foreign pony is good enough to play in first-class matches is absurd. As a matter of fact they are often ridden by our best men in the most important games. Take for example the ponies ridden by the winning team in last year's Champion Cup, the annexed analysis of which shows that non-English ponies did one-third of the whole work, playing eight out of the twenty-four periods of ten minutes each. This was successfully done against an exceptionally powerful team riding nothing but the very pick of English ponies. Although in foreign ponies extreme handiness is greatly cultivated, it must not be supposed that speed is necessarily wanting. I am not sure that there are not foreign ponies playing at Hurlingham which could out-gallop any English pony for the length of a polo ground. Be that as it may, there are several certainly faster than some of our best known English Tournament ponies, and quite able to hold their own in any game. I shall now consider the various breeds separately. ENGLISH PONIES 295 TABLE OF PONIES PLAYED BY THE RUGBY TEAM, WINNERS OF THE CHAMPION CUP, 1897, IN THE FINAL AGAINST THE FREEBOOTERS. ist — Ten Minutes 2nd 3rd 4th 5th 6th (I) Mr. G. A. Jack in the Miller j Box Sandow (Argentine) Slavin (Ar- gentine) *Rasper Slavin (Ar- gentine) Sandow (Argentine) (2) Captain *Matchbox Renton Little Fairy Black Bella Match- box Little Fairy Black Bella and Nipcat (3) Mr. E. D. Luna Miller Langosta (Argentine) *H ou s e - maid Luna ... Langosta (Argentine) Luna (Back) Mr. * Charlton W. J. Dry- > brough 1 *Lord Dal- mahoy (Anglo- Arab) Charlton Fusilier (Texas) Amazon and Pretty Girl Charlton (Freebooters' Team — Mr. Gerald Hardy, Captain Ravvlinson, Mr. Walter Buck- master and Mr. John Watson. Rugby won by two goals, hit by Captain Renton on Nipcat, No goals were scored the first fifty-seven minutes.) * Trained to polo by the rider. Note. — Captain Renton and Mr. E. D. Miller used to play in the 17th Lancers Team, as also did Captain Rawlinson. Mr. John Watson played for the 13th Hussars. The other four players who were engaged in the Champion Cup final are civilians. ENGLISH PONIES. According to the general acceptance of the term, the word "pony" means a small horse, usually under 14 hands, belonging to any recognised breed which habitually reproduces its stock of a similar dwarfed size. Such breeds, more or less pure, are the Shetland, Welsh, New Forest, and Connemara ponies, extremely few of which are suitable for polo purposes. Our English polo pony is either a cross bred animal more or less remotely related to one or other of these breeds, or is simply a dwarfed thoroughbred. In 296 BREEDS OF PONIES the latter case he may owe his small size to various accidental causes: for example, to inbreed- ing, to being a first foal, to having been bred from a very aged parent, or more often to in- sufficient nourishment when young. Our best and hardiest English ponies are probably those which are nearly, though not quite, thoroughbred. Taking the English pony of 14 to 14.2 hands hio'h as we find him in oeneral use in oentlemen's o oft* traps, tradesmen's carts, and under saddle, not one pony in a hundred is suitable for polo. Some years ago I used to cross over to Ireland each spring to pick ponies from a stud of about seventy collected every year for polo purposes by a friend in Kildare, and I had great difficulty in finding amonor them half-a-dozen worth takino- home. o o Many of the remainder must have made very inferior polo mounts, and not a few had to be sold for other purposes. My friend soon threw up the speculation as a non-paying one. I paid about ;^50 apiece for selected schooled ponies. Irish dealers have offered to supply me with lots of carefully picked, well bred ponies at ^30 per head. I have never heard of anybody who made buying and '' making " raw ponies pay, and I do not believe that the oame is worth the candle. In England it is impossible to breed polo ponies true to size ; for the sires or dams are apt to throw back to ancestors of a different height, and besides our good feeding induces to increase in stature. Fig. 53. — Mr. W, J. DRYBROUGH, on his favourite pony. Charlton (1897). (See page 299.) W. A. Rough, London.] \To face page 2c Fig. 54.— Mr. G. A. IVIILLER, on Major Fenwick's Fitz. Ranelagh Show Champion Prize Pony, 1897. (See page 298.) ENGLISH PONIES 29/ Barb sires, Lord Harrington's Awfully Jolly, for instance, appear to have been the most successful for breeding polo ponies. The so-called Godolphin Arab, which greatly helped in the improvement of our thoroughbred stock, was a Tunis Barb. The Polo Pony Shtd Book is now doing its best to assist in producing a pure breed of polo ponies, but I do not see how breeding these ponies can ever pay, for few men are willing to give for even a promising four or five-year-old the sum which must have been spent in bringing the animal to that age ; and the losses on failures must be ruinous. \\'riting in the Encyclopcedia of Sport, Captain F. Herbert says, " Much as I should like to speak in favour of breeding and its possibilities, honesty compels me to say that as a paying and profitable business it will never succeed." Fortunately there are wealthy men who, for the love of the thing, are willing to spend money on improving the breed. Most of us have had at times favourite mares we would wish to see produce their likes. I give a photograph of the beautiful thoroughbred pony "Spring Hill H." (fig. 51) which is now serving at Rugby; one of Mr. Brandt's Arab " Huzzor " (fig. 6i), winner of several first prizes ; one of the Algerian Barb, Robin (fig. 62), which I consider to be a model of quick active conformation ; and one of Mr. W. H. Walker's Arab, Magic (fig. 55), the sire of over two hundred ponies. 2gS BREEDS OF PONIES Among friends who are breeding ponies I may mention Mr. A. M. Tree, Ashorne Hill, Leaming- ton, who has quite a little stud by Arab horses, and Mr. J. H. Munro Mackenzie, of Calgary, Tobermory, Argyllshire, Isle of Mull, who has been very successful in breeding from a nice bay. The Syrian, out of pony mares chiefly sent to him by members of the Edinburgh Polo Club. He has one rare old Welsh mare, Sandiway, which used to belonor to me. He g^ets for his youngsters an average of about ^48, with which price he has good reason to be satisfied. Our friends in America and Russia have better oppor- tunities than we have for forming pure studs of polo ponies, for in those countries mares of stan- dard sized breeds are easily procured, and the cost of feeding young stock up to polo age is either nz/ or too small to be worth considering. I may mention that I have paid the same price for freight of a pony from New York to Glasgow, as I have to pay for sending one by rail from Edinburgh to London, namely ^5. Among the many illustrations of English ponies given in this book, I may call special attention to the following ponies. Major Fenwick's Fitz (fig. 54), originally purchased for ^35 on Ballina- sloe Common, by Mr. E. D. Miller. He was twice sold for ^80, and afterwards bought back from Mr. Sheppard for ^300, to play in the Open Champion Cup of 1896. He took first prize at ENGLISH PONIES 299 Ranelag'h Show that year, and in 1897 ^^ ^'^^"^ the Ranelagh Champion Cup Prize, beating all first-prize ponies present. His pedigree is not known. Sir Humphrey de Trafford's Gold (fig. 34) is a grand stamp of pony, up to any weight, and used to lead racehorses in their gallops at the Curragh. He has raced frequently, has never been beaten, and is also a well-known winner in the Show Ring. Mr. W. H. Walker's Irish mare. Dynamite (fig. 16) is celebrated as having carried Mr. J. E. Peat brilliantly in many Open Champion Cup wins. She was the best polo pony the Messrs. Peat ever owned, and made the then record price of 460 gs. at their sale in 1895. Mr. "Jack" Drybrough's chestnut mare Charl- ton (fig. 53) by Discount, is probably the best weight-carrying polo pony living. She was sold and afterwards re-purchased by her present owner. At Lord Shaftesbury's sale in 1894 she made 320 gs., the highest price of the year ; ^500 has since been offered for her. A winner of races and a prize taker in the Show Yard (including First Prize for Heavy-weig-ht Polo Ponies, Hurlingham, June, 1898), she has played in many tournaments, including, in 1897, the Open Champion Cup, the Ranelagh Challenge Cup, and the All Ireland Open Cup. Lord Kensington's Sailor (fig. 14), by Lurgan, 300 BREEDS OF PONIES was Mr. Gerald Hardy's mount in many tourna- ments, and has often won in the Show Ring. At Messrs. Miller's sale this year (1898) he sold for 750 gs., the highest price ever paid at auction for a polo pony. Lord Kensington's Irish pony Fizzer (fig. 17), has played in various military tournaments. At Captain G. P. Ellison's sale in 1897 he fetched the then record price of 510 gs. He took First Prize for Light-weight Polo Ponies, Hurlingham, June, 1898. Mr. W. J. Jones's Litde Fairy (fig. 19), late Tessie, by Glendale dam Leanora (see Stud Book), was bred by Lord Durham, who raced her and afterwards bred from her. Mr. Suart schooled her to polo and sold her at his sale in 1897 ^^r 300 gs. Captain Renton played her in the Open Champion Cup of 1897. Captain Renton's Matchbox (fig. 18), won the Champion Prize at Ranelagh Show, 1898. Other high class ponies are : — Nimble (fig. 28), formerly the property of the Messrs. Peat. Luna (fig. 3), First Prize, Champion Class, Hur- lingham, June, 1898, and a perfect polo pony. Rasper (fig, 42), a grand stamp. Chatterbox (fig 31), at one time in Mr. Watson's stable. Ladys- maid (fig. 30), one of the fastest ponies playing. Lady Jane (fig. 27), winner of the Leicestershire Point - to - Point Steeplechase, beating full - sized horses. Cicely (fig. 52), Surge Beauty (fig. 6), Early Dawn (fig. 6), &c. hi Chapter V., on ARAB PONIES 3OI "Choosing a Pony" I have quoted average prices of EngHsh ponies. ARAB PONIES. My acquaintance with Arab polo ponies has been sHght, and I confess I have always been suspicious of the high caste attributed to many imported specimens, which have been chiefly brought from India, and I suppose have been originally purchased in the Bombay Arab dealer's stables, where many Syrians, Gulf Arabs, &c., are collected. ]\Iany of the Arab ponies I have seen in England closely resemble the ponies purchasable in Cairo, though, as a rule, they have more substance, and perhaps heavier shoulders. Captain Hayes, who has bought hundreds of Arabs in India, told me he considered my ponies. The Rake and Bimbashi, to be fairly good caste Arabs. I am pleased to think they are so, but am quite content to class them simply as Cairo ponies. For full information on Arab horses I refer my readers to General Tweedie's book on that subject. Of the many Arab horses I have been shown in English breeding studs and in Continental Haras, I have seen very few I thought suitable for polo. On one occasion, when visitino- a valuable stud in E no-land, the owner laughingly told me that all the good- shouldered ones I specially fancied were departures from the true Arab type. The present scarcity of Arab^polo ponies in England is partly accounted 302 BREEDS OF PONIES for by the fact that no troop-ships now exist to bring them home passage-free. Among Arab ponies now playing in England are Mr. T. E. Brandt's chestnut horse, Huzzor (fig. 6i), which is a winner of several first prizes, and is somewhat remarkable for being occasionally used on the same day for stud purposes and polo. The grey, ridden by Dokhul Singh (fig. 46), was a gift from Sir Pertrab Singh to Captain Douglas Haig, 7th Hussars. White Rose (fig. 56), now the property of Mr. Court, and considered by him to be one of the best Arabs in England, formerly carried that good poloist, Captain Le Gallais, who proved the stamina of this pony by playing him three con- secutive ten-minutes on two different occasions ; once in a Champion Cup final, and once in a Military Tournament. My brother's pony, Magic Spell (fig. 43), is a remarkable performer under the punishing weight he carries. He was brought from Bombay by Mr. Fred Graham, who pur- chased him out of a well-known racing stud. This pony has great length and slope of pasterns, and curiously long feet. He played last summer in the winning team of the Paris International Tournament. I also give photographs (figs. 11 and 45) of two ponies belonging to Mr. C. D. Miller, who played them in India with the Motihari Club in Bahar. where the indigo planters live. These Fig. 55.— Mr. W. H. WALKER'S Arab Pony, Magic. (See page 303.) To face pxge 302. Fig. 56.— Mr. W. R. COURT'S Arab Pony, White Rose. CAIRO PONIES 303 are really small-sized ponies, but all the same are good specimens of the Arab ponies that are used in India. Mr. W. H. Walker's Magic (fig. 55) is a Nedj Arab, and was imported by Captain Hayes, for whom he won some races in India. He has won thirteen times against English ponies. He was a wonderful polo pony and is now at stud. Captain Wise's Seagull (fig. 12) and the 1 2th Lancers Club's Elijah (fig. 13) are well- known Arab ponies. CAIRO PONIES. Most of the Eastern ponies played in England have hailed from. Cairo, having been brought either by regiments quartered there on their way home from India, or imported by winter visitors. In Cairo every Eastern pony is an Arab, Syrian, Egyptian, Bedouin, or anything else the dealer thinks the intended purchaser will pay most highly for. The dealer will probably say that the animal was smuggled across the Red Sea or shipped from Syria ; although most likely the pony is a country-bred from some local fair, or from the Fayum district. Mongrels, or whatever else they are, they often make excellent polo ponies, and though they mav not have the weight and bone of a high caste typical Arab, they have often much lighter and better sloped shoulders. An Eastern pony's shape must not be judged exactly as that of an English 304 BREEDS OF PONIES bred horse ; for any tendency to mule shape in an English pony would suggest weakness and possibly queer temper. Such a conformation in a Cairo pony would attract little attention. If he moved well, had good clean limbs, and a generally useful look as judged by experts accus- tomed to the breed, much in the way of faulty shape might be passed over. As a rule, these ponies are very hardy, willing and good tempered ; their legs stand hard ground well, and they improve quickly on English feeding ; but in some cases they become above themselves, or get very lazy ; the prevention of such deviations being simply a matter of judicious exercise and dieting. I have read, but do not believe, that all Cairo ponies take to polo at once, even when just brouofht in from the desert, and that their fine mouths are made by the severe Turkish bits used by the Arabs. I have my doubts about their coming from deserts. My opinion of Arab horse- manship is that Arab riders have the vilest of hands and the worst of methods ; in fact it is painful to see them pull up their horses, which stop in shocking form with propping jerks, heads in air, and mouths gaping. As regards their all playing polo at once, I may say that while at Cairo, I had nothing to do thrice a week for about two months but sit at the polo ground at Gezireh and watch trials of young ponies brought in by dealers. Rarely one turned out of any use. E. Gordon, Putney, S.W.] Fig. 57.— The AUTHOR'S Cairo (Arab) Pony, The Rake. (See page 305.) E. Gordon, Putnej', S.W.] {To face page 304. Fig. 58.— The AUTHOR'S Cairo (Egyptian) Pony, Khalifa. (See page 305.) CAIRO PONIES 305 and I hardly ever saw a more star-gazing" lot of brutes. Nearly all of even the made ponies required to have their heads tied down. Of three ponies which had been bought for me, one soon played kindly, one was a hard puller, and one was so hot he could not be played at all. I was not able to play them myself, as I had just passed through a severe attack of typhoid fever. Of ponies played at Cairo, I saw only two weight carriers, The Rake and Khalifa (an Egyptian country-bred) which I wished to possess, and which I after- wards bought. Major Sparkes played them both in the winning team of the match " Army of Occupation" v. "Egyptian Army." Captain Fox- Strangways rode two other ponies I owned, Bim- bashi and Sirdar. I afterwards sold Sirdar to him. The other three I have played in all my matches for six years. I paid ^30 for Bim- bashi (a Syrian) and £^0 for Major Sparkes's pair, which had won small races, run in paper- chases, drilled with troops, &c. The little chest- nut. Said, which was purchased for me in Cairo for £22, was the quickest and nimblest pony on a polo ground, and the fullest of vitality I have ever ridden. In England ^200 would not have bought him, and of course he was the only pony that ever died in my stable. He was much faster than my present three, in fact, he galloped away from them with my weight against light 20 306 BREEDS OF PONIES Stable boys, and the three are fast enough for first-class games. He won our half-mile maiden race, also our gymkhana bending race easily. Although Cairo ponies are often called cowards, I think that they vary like other ponies. A heavily built one is likely to learn to ride out boldly ; a slimmer one may dislike it. Again, entire ponies are suspicious of each other and are not generally accustomed to come in contact in ordinary riding. As regards fear of blows from stick and ball, there is no doubt that some have brains and good memories. The Arab pony is a "gentleman." Many are wonderfully guidable, and gallop and bend with easy, gliding motion. Unfortunately, their .very willingness to obey the rein at times gets them into trouble ; for in rough hands they may be thrown down. If an Arab receives, for instance, a rein-indication to gallop to the right, and then gets an unexpected jerk to the left, he may, from anxiety to obey, cross his legs and fall, x^n English pony would rebel, throw up his head, fight and refuse to attempt to change legs so hurriedly. I have seen a man throw his pony down twice in one game. Let such a pony change owners, and we shall hear no more about fallini^. I have never had an Eastern pony cross his legs. I have [^one old fellow with a worn fetlock, who is liable to stumble if turned suddenly, but curiously enough he is the only one of my three which has never fallen : the other two have slipped on greasy ground. ^^^% Fig. 59. -Mr. W. H. WALKER'S Egyptian Pony, Bedouin. See page 308.) T. B. D.] [To/ace/ag-e 306. Fig. CO.— The AUTHOR S Cairo (Syrian) Pony, Bimbashi (See page 308.) CAIRO PONIES 307 Again, as to the Inability of the Arab to work in mud, I think that depends on individual forma- tion. A pony with short hind fetlocks can gener- ally act safely. I think horses of any breed with long backs, long legs and long fetlocks are most liable to slip in mud. I mean when stopping or turning ; for many can go straight forward freely. The reason often given, that Eastern ponies have never seen mud, does not convince me. If a horse has been bred in the flooded Nile delta, or ridden through heavy sand, he has seen deep going that would astonish an English park - bred pony. My three act well enough. They had to do so in one County Cup Tourna- ment (1893), where w^e simply splashed through mud and water. I have never felt my ponies tire in a match, and once they had to play three severe ties in one week in heavv o-oino-. The export of ponies from Cairo was prohibited some years ago, and no crack regiment happens to have lately brought home ponies which have made history. Entire ponies, even if perfectly gentle with both horses and mares, require special attention in stables and on polo grounds, and cannot be turned out together at pasture. Be- sides this, Cairo ponies are often faulty hacks, may trip, or trot irregularly, and though useful as trappers, are not English looking or readily saleable. Much as I like them, and have reason to recommend them, I think, all things considered, 308 BREEDS OF PONIES that North American importations are more gener- ally useful for English players. In Cairo ponies cost from ^15 to ^^30. The freight from Alexandria to Liverpool is £14- To this ^i may be added for fodder, ^i for the man in charge, and ^i for dues, &c. I forget the railway fare from Cairo to Alexandria, but probably ^2 would cover it. I give photographs of my three Cairo ponies, The Rake (fig. 57), Bimbashi (fig. 60), and Khalifa (fig. 58), which, though they differ in shape, are fairly representative. These ponies carried me in the winning teams of the Hurlingham County Cups of 1893 ^^^ 1894. Mr. W. H. Walker's chestnut Bedouin (fig. 59), who has carried his owner perfectly for ten seasons, deserves a place. BARB PONIES. The Barb, or horse of the North of Africa, is known to English polo players as an importation from clubs at Malta and Gibraltar ; in the former case he hails from Tunis, in the latter from Algiers. In England these ponies used to be very common in regimental teams, but now they are rarely seen, partly, no doubt, because the old troop-ship no longer exists to bring them home passage-free, and partly because they are being cut out by Americans which can be bought as cheap, are often bigger, stronger, more English- BARB PONIES 309 like in every way, and have not the objection of being entires. Algerian Barbs. — The best pony I have ever seen imported from Gibraltar was the brown horse Robin (fig. 62). He is at stud near Edinburgh, and was owned by Mr. "Jack" Drybrough, who laments he has not his services now for first-class matches. He equalled the best class of English pony, but can hardly be considered a fair repre- sentative of the Algiers breed, as he is said to have been sired by a thoroughbred at the Govern- ment Haras at Oran. Chief of Gran (fig. 13), a chestnut, the property of the 12th Lancers Polo Club, is exceptionally quick on his legs. Captain Crawley rode him in various tournaments. I saw some well shaped ponies in harness at Algiers, but failed to find any animals worth buvinp" in the dealers' stables, though I was assisted in my search by cavalry officers who knew where to look for them. At " Gib " a good player costs about ^25. The fare to England is about ^10. Tzinis Ba7^bs played at Malta vary much in type. Some are slim, wiry, springy things like antelopes, and very smart for flying light weights; others are bigger, duller and more mulish looking, and of course there are intermediates of various styles. Visiting the Island some years ago, I was given to understand that nothing over 13.3 was used, but all the same I bought four of 1 4.1. A pretty 3IO BREEDS OF PONIES little pony 13.1 came to my stable by mistake. Considering the size of some of the men who over- weighted these poor little beasts, and the state of their legs from work on hard ground, it is no wonder that fatal accidents caused temporary pro- hibition of the game. At Malta I saw only one made pony which I wished to buy, and he turned out to be from Cairo. A young one I bought from Mr. Saliba, the dealer, would have been a valuable pony, but I left him some months and he came home with a pain in his temper. Of three others bought for me, one was a weight carrier which was really useful, but had unfortunately been knocked about by a welter weight before he was four years old. A nice light weight pony. The Cid, which Mr. R. Usher played during its polo career, was the easiest snaffle-bridle pony I have ever ridden. The Malta dealers say that the Tunis ponies have better les^s and hardier constitutions than Cairo ponies. A green pony costs about ^15, and a made one about ^25. As the dealers must risk a good deal of expense on the off- chance of selling at ^15, they cannot pay much at Tunis. Their profit probably comes chiefly from livery. The expenses to England are about £\2, of which £Z is ship freight. At Tunis in grass famine seasons, ^3 to £6 will buy a pony. The best do not go to Malta. A correspondent kindly informs me where I can find the most suit- Fig. 61. — Mr. T. E. BRANDTS Arab Pony, Huzzor. (See page 302.) [To face iage 310. Fig. 62.— Mr. W. J. DRYBROUGH'S Algerian Barb, Robin. (See page 309.) NORTH AMERICAN PONIES 3II able ponies for England, animals about 14. i high, five to six years old, and Arab gentle. He says that the best in the country for polo are either the Dahla or Khroumir breeds, one of which could be bought for ^15. My own ponies were very gentle, all had hobble marks, and all got up off the ground cow-fashion, hind legs first. If polo is started on the Riviera, this breed should come in handy. This season (1898), I have only noticed one Malta Barb playing at Hurlingham, a grey called Moonlight, ridden by Mr. Ansell of the Innis- killinors. PONIES OF THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. I EXPECT to see the pony of the United States of America growing daily in favour with English players. The best Americans closely rival the best English, and it is easier to get a number of nearly best Americans than a number of nearly best Enorlish. No other breed resembles Enorlish ponies so closely as the North American. He is a good all-round pony, a clever hack or boy's hunter, and excellent in harness. He has speed, is enduring, hardy constitutioned and has legs that stand hard ground better than those of English ponies. The average North American, even in his homely form of Indian pony, is, I think, a better animal than the Argentine, and is bred in a robuster climate. Like the Argentine, he can be 312 BREEDS OF PONIES bought at a very moderate price. In many parts of the States, English blood horses have been so long used as sires that " graded (part thorough- bred) stock has become the horse of the country, so that even among *' scrubs " (horses of unknown pedigree) one may easily find ponies of excep- tionally good quality. On many ranches imported English thorough- breds are kept as sires, and on others the American thoroughbred of registered running stock is used. From various friends who have played these ponies both in America and in England I have collected the following particulars : — Texas Ponies. — The Texas pony, which of all the United States ponies is the best known to English players, seems to have reached England via France. Being the pony used by clubs in the Eastern States, Mr. W. K. Thorn and other American players took him, when visiting Europe, to Pau and to Paris ; from which places he quickly found his way to London. For some time his brand was ao^ainst him. Althouoh he is still con- fused with the Argentine, his many good quali- ties have pushed him to the front. Mr. "Jack" Drybrough's grey Fusilier, one of the Champion Cup Team ponies (fig. 39), is a grand specimen of a weight-carrying Texas pony. Mr. Buck- master bought him in Paris from the American player, Mr. Vingut, and sold him at Tattersall's for 260 gs. to Sir Humphrey de Trafford, from whom his present owner obtained him. E. Gordon, Putney, S.W.] Fig. 63. — Mr. W. BUCKMASTER'S Texas Pony, Diamond. (See page 313.) E. GokDOX, Putney, S.V7.] \To face page 312. Fig. 64.— Mr. F. J. MACKEY'S Texas Pony, Dance, (See page 313.) TEXAS PONIES 313 Lord Harrington's Savage (fig. 50), imported by Mr. F. J. Mackey, has won many races, and has galloped ^ mile in 23 sees, (faster than Derby time). He is perhaps the fastest sprinter that has ever been brought to England. Lord Harrington has owned and bred many first-class ponies, yet he thinks that Savage is the fastest he has ever ridden ; in fact, he has never let him out full speed. Mr. Buckmaster's chestnut, Diamond (fig. 6;^), which formerly belonged to Mr. Thorn, is an exceptionally fine pony. Mr. Buckmaster, who speaks enthusiastically of American ponies, calls this mare one of the very best he has ever owned. Cap (fig. 68), a chestnut regularly played at Hurlingham by Mr Mackey, is a fast, handy, and easily played pony. Like Savage, he came from the ranch of Messrs. Savage and Connover, Texas. These .gentlemen buy and school ponies for polo. They supply the Buffalo Club, New York State, and other polo clubs, and keep only extra good made ponies. Their prices vary from about ^50 to £7S- Dance (fig. 64), a rather queer shaped roan gelding, but said to be a superb player, was imported by Mr. Mackey from Mr. Farwell's ranch in Texas. He is very quick on his legs, rides out boldly, and has a perfect mouth. My very special friend, Mr. W. K. Thorn, of New York, and also of Newport (U.S.A.), Paris, and Pau, who has often kindly mounted me at polo and with hounds, again comes to my 314 BREEDS OF PONIES assistance with explicit information regarding Texas ponies. He tells me that "Mr. Patrick Jones, of San Antonio, Texas, is the largest and best dealer, and I have for years purchased ponies from him. During the months of October, November, December and January, he buys the fastest race ponies he can find, and collects them on his farm, where his cowboys give them their first rough lessons at polo on his private ground. "He brings them to Hampstead, Long Island, in April. His present prices range from 250 to 400 dols., according to the class and progress in education of the pony. Though he will supply ponies on order, he prefers purchasers to satisfy themselves by a personal trial. A trial in a game can usually be had on the Meadow Brook Ground, through the introduction of a member. The ponies range from 14' to 14.2 hands in height. Mr. Jones sends some of his lot to Boston." Mr. Thorn states that his friend Mr. Bertie Hay remarks, regarding the breed of Texas ponies, that "when Maximilian came to Mexico he brouo-ht with him selected Arab stallions, which were probably the gift of Napoleon HI., and formed Haras all over Central and N,W. Mexico. During the revolution which followed his downfall, they became dispersed and roamed at liberty throughout Mexico and Western Texas, w^here they herded with troops of wild ponies.'^ Mr. Hay, between the years 1882 and 1889, E. Gordon, Putney, S.W.J Fig. 65. -Mr STANLEY MORTIMERS Texas Pony, Ranger (.See page 316.) E. Gordon, Putney, S.W.] {To face page 314 Fig. 66.— Mr. STANLEY MORTIMER'S Texas Pony, Little Rondo (See page 316.) TEXAS PONIES 315 owned, jointly with his brother and IMr. Alexander Duncan, a ranch about 140 miles west of Fort North, in N.W. Texas, on the trail along which droves of ponies and cattle were taken North before the days of railways. During that time about four hundred ponies, selected from the "cutting" ponies used by the cowboys with these herds, passed through their hands. These animals were tested with a trial pony from San Antonio who could do the ^ mile in 2 2| sees. The mares in the herds varied in height from 13.2 to 14.2, so the breed was small. ^Nlr. Buckmaster became owner of two of these ponies, which he afterwards sold at his sale at Messrs. Tattersall's ; one, the grey Fusilier (fig. 39), fetching 260 gs., and the other, a chestnut called Badger, 180 gs. The only sires at that time were trotting bred. According to Mr. Jones, the best sires now are Rondo, Billy, and Steel Dust. The chestnut mare Diamond, late Nellie (unbeaten), is now owned by Mr. Buckmaster, who bought her from Mr. Thorn. Mr. Jones states that she is by the original Rondo out of Kansas Kate by Whalebone, who was one of the best quarter of a mile horses in Texas. (Mr. Thorn, when he bought her, believed her to be by Steel Dust.) i\s a specimen of pedi- gree, take Mr. Thorn's bay 5-year old mare Sunshine by Rondo, dam School Girl by Tom McKinny, out of Maimie Johnson, who was by Tom Gay, dam Maimie Sykes. 3l6 BREEDS OF PONIES A 5-year old chestnut stallion (fig. 66) called Little Rondo (unbeaten), by the original Rondo, has been sent over with some other ponies to Rugby by Mr. Stanley Mortimer. This pony has perfect manners, and Is very fast and handy. He has never lost a quarter-mile race at level weights, even against big horses. He is only 14 hands high. When Mr. Mortimer was unfortunate enough to break his thigh while riding him, the pony at once slowed, joined the others, and stood quietly until his nearly unconscious rider was lifted from his back. This pony is expected to prove, later on, one of the best sires in America. Mr. Mortimer has another chestnut stallion, Joe Cotton, 4-year old, by Jack Hardy by Ten Broeck, dam Sleeping Beauty by Rondo, dam Baltic. The brown Texas pony Ranger (fig. 65), played by Mr. Mortimer at Hurlingham this season (1898), is an exceptionally handy pony, and is much envied by many London players. Messrs. Savage and Conover, and also Mr. Anson, bring selected ponies north and sell to the Philadelphia and Rockaway Polo Clubs. Mr. Herzig, who also does this. Is breeding ponies from Pinto by Duke of Magenta, Mr. Lorillard's famous horse which was taken 111 while being shipped to England, and consequently did not run there. Indian Territory Ponies (purchased through the Chicago Polo Club).— Mr. F. J. Mackey, E. Gordon, Putney, S.W.] Fig. 67.— Mr. F. J. MACKEYS Indian Territory Pony, El Reno. (See page 317.) Gordon, Putney, .S.W. To face pa^e 316. Fig. 68. — Mr. F. J MACKEY'S Texas Pony, Cap. (See page 313.) INDIAN TERRITORY PONIES jV Beauchamp Hall, Leamington, has brought over some nice ponies. Fig. 6"] is a photograph of his chestnut El Reno, which he played at Hur- lingham last year, and which won many sprint races in America. He proved that he is fast enough for good games by beating Luna (the Champion Cup Team pony) in a race the length of the polo ground. Willie D, another chestnut imported by Mr. Mackey, and now the property of Lord Harring- ton, is credited with a \ mile in 23 sees., and was never beaten in America. Tom, a dark brown in the same stable, is a very promising first season pony. There are three Polo Clubs in Chicago, the Onwentsia Polo Club beinor the leading- one, Mr. Walters, the Club Stable Manager, visits the Indian Territory in order to buy for Members of his Club, and purchases from Mr. Cammel who has a breeding and racing establishment there. Prices range from ^^ to 125 dols. when buying by the car load of eighteen ponies, which are in the rough, but have been trained as cow-ponies and probably schooled with stick and ball, and are all handy to ride. Some of them are mares. They vary in age from 6 to 15 years, and are about 14.2 high. The journey to Chicago costs 10 to 15 dols. During the season at Chicago, 150 dols. will be a\^erage price for a made polo pony ; though the 3r8 BREEDS OF PONIES top price of the year may reach 250 dols. Ponies are also purchased from Texas (see article 011 Texas Ponies, p. 312). A palace car to New York, with separate stalls for eighteen to twenty ponies, costs about 100 dols. for the thousand mile journey, and is run in forty-eight hours, the ponies not being taken out cii route. When only two or three ponies are sent, it is sometimes possible to arrange with stock owners who may have room to spare in their cars. I am indebted to my friend Mr. Mackey, for the above particulars. It is not safe to judge a United States pony by his looks, for the queer-shaped ones are often the best. Ponies of N. E. Wyoming. — Mr. Malcolm Moncrieffe, Leamington, has shown me his last importations. He tells me that the ponies are out of country-bred mares by thorough-bred sires, such as Robert Emmet, Demagogue, &c. His ranch is close to that of the Hon. Oliver Wallop, who bred my pony Creole. These ponies, which are bought at 5 and 6 years old, are quiet and have been broken in the English style and worked with cattle during the summer. They cost 45 to 100 dols. in the rough, and are trucked via Chicago, which is 1,500 miles distant, and are played on a private polo ground at Bighorn. They are bred on open range and are sent to mountaiii enclosures during part of the year. They improve in pace after handling and playing. Mr. Mon- crieffe, who sells at Tattersall's, has imported several t y Fig. 69. — Mr. M. MONCRIEFFE, and his Wyoming Pony, Wait. (See page 319.) To face page 318 Fig. 70. — Mr. M. MONCRIEFFE, and his Wyoming Pony, Vampire (See page 319.) COLORADO PONIES 319 lots these last three years. I give photogTaphs of three ponies sold at his sale last year, 1897. Lightfoot (fig. 71), who fetched 190 gs., is a roan, up to lots of weight, has perfect manners and was celebrated as a "cutting" cow pony. Waif (fig. 69), who made 1 1 5 gs., is a very fast chestnut mare, 14. i-|. Vampire (fig. 70), a bay gelding, was also an excellent cutting pony. Colorado Ponies. — Mr. W. Fuller, who has played at the Glenwood Springs Polo Club, says the players of that club ride young cattle ponies which are 5 or 6 years old and about 14. i high. They are graded stock, but rarely show signs of English blood. £^ to ^10 will buy a good green pony. A promising pony that schools w^ell will cost ^15 to ^20, and a made polo pony some- thing under ^30. New York players have imported at an average of under £\o each, car loads of first class Colorado ponies which have been schooled for six weeks and which are quiet to ride and handle. £1 extra is paid for corn-fed ponies. Mr. Harvey Lyle, the Secretary at the Springs, is the moving spirit in polo matters. Montana (and Idaho) Ponies. — This section has been revised by, or I may say written in collabora- tion with, my friend Mr. E. S. Cameron of the Eve Ranch, Terry, Montana, who during the last few years has selected and sent to England all my ponies and hunters. The lengthy treatment of this 320 BREEDS OF PONIES subject may be excused on the ground that I am the only importer of Montana ponies for polo. In England the term Yankee or Yank is applied indiscriminately to any branded pony, no matter whether it comes from North or South America ; and many English polo players do not seem to know that the United States of North America and Argentina of Spanish South America are not in the same hemisphere. The home of the Montana pony, for instance, is separated from that of its Argentine cousin by about 7,000 miles of country. Montana lies in the extreme North of the United States, on the Canadian border, 3,000 miles West of New York. It is as large as France, and is the most sparsely settled of all the United States, having as yet unlimited free range for grazing. This fact, combined with the exceptional dryness of the climate, makes it specially suited for raising horses with hardy constitutions. The grass, which is wonderfully nutritious, com- bines the properties of both hay and oats, and ripens on the stalk into hay, which the horses reach in winter by pawing away the snow. The ranchman, without paying one cent of rent or asking leave of any one, is free to turn out as many horses as he may possess, whether they constitute a modest bunch of a dozen or the wealthier man's herd of, say, four thousand head. The word ranch simply means an improved holding, large or small, includino- buildino-s, o-ardens and orounds enclosed Fig 71 —Mr. M. MONCRIEFFE, and his Wyoming Pony, Lightfoot. (See page 319.) [ To face page 320. Fig. 72.— Mr. AUBERON STOURTON'S Argentine Pony, Menelik, fSee Dasre ^ic.') MONTANA PONIES 32 1 by fences ; and for this, with the exception of 1 60 acres of Government land to which every citizen of the United States is entided, he would ultimately be supposed to pay rent or purchase ; but at present the land laws of Montana are not enforced, the legal title remaining in the fence or "first occupa- tion rights." All the open country is ''free range" to any man, and includes prairie (unfenced grass- land) pine hills, river bottoms and arid bad lands {matroaises tem^-es). Much of the fenced pasture is reserved for hay. Cattle ranching is chiefly in the hands of wealthy Americans who, as large capitalists, can stand the enormous periodical losses from severe winters which occur about once in ten years. Montana has a perfect climate for eight months in the year, but the weather of January, February and March is sometimes intensely severe ; — 40° F. being not uncommon and — 60° F. being occasionally recorded. At these times, horses can paw away the frozen snow and so reach the o-rass underneath, but cattle have not this instinct ; they merely plough with their noses, which become so painfully lacerated when there is a hard crust on the snow, that the poor brutes lose heart, give up the vain attempt, and stand miserably awaiting death. In the winter of 1886-7, 90 per cent, of the whole cattle stock perished in this way, and the loss in 1896-7 was also heavy; in fact, one man in a short space of time counted a hundred bodies 21 322 BREEDS OF PONIES floating down a creek, at the break up of the winter The favourite height of a horse for cattle work is 1 5 hands, which size is found handiest over rough country, and is compatible w^ith strength sufficient to hold a steer when roped, or "pack" a heavy man uphill. The words lasso and lariat, by the way, are only used by strangers from the South ; for the Montana cow-puncher always calls a lasso a rope. Every Englishman who invests money in the Montana horse business begins by taking out a few valuable thoroughbred sires, sometimes to improve his bunch for local markets, but oftener with dreams of sendino- home hiorh class stock for hunting and other purposes. Under ordinary circumstances a stallion is turned out on the rano-e in summer with a bunch of about one hundred mares, which he guards with jealous care. The bunch will find a spot that suits and become "located;" that is, they will roam over a tract of about ten miles in diameter, watering at the same place every day. Mares that have once foaled on a run will not leave the ground, even if if there be no stallion to herd them. A stallion can generally keep his country to himself, but is occasionally beaten off by another stallion, and sometimes even bv a o^eldino- which will take all his mares awav from him, and which is called a "herder." Should this occur, the stallion will E. Gordon, Putney, S.W.] Fig. 73.— The AUTHORS Montana Pony, Sweetwater. (See page 327.) E. Gordon, Putney, S.W.] \To face page 322. Fig. 74.— The AUTHORS Montana Pony, Wolfcatcher. This pony galloped a grey wolf to a standstill. (See page 331.) MONTANA PONIES 323 return crestfallen to the ranch. Stallions are supposed to be taken up and stabled during the winter, but are occasionally lost altogether, as was the case with the thoroughbred, Gingerbread, which was imported by Mr. J. H. Price, and which was sire of Slap-jack (fig. "]"]). Once a year, about May 15th, the mares are " rounded up" for the purpose of castrating colts of the previous year ; they are then again turned out in selected bunches, to each of which a stallion is assigned. In the late "fall" — October — the mares are again rounded up to brand the foals born in the spring of the year. The best of a bunch of horses are called the "tops," and the worst the "culls." During the six months that they are in use, ponies for cattle work are not shod and subsist entirely upon the bunch grass, which they prefer to oats, especially when it first grows. An unbroken horse is called a " broncho," no matter if it be an Indian pony or an English thoroughbred. The question "Is that a Bronck?" which we sometimes hear on English polo grounds, with reference to a branded pony, is absurd ; for it is equivalent to enquiring, "Is that an unbroken pony ? " which it obviously is not. The Mexican word "mustang "(wild horse) is not used in Mon- tana, the word "range-horse" taking its place. A professional breaker is termed a " broncho buster." This man will often go the round of several ranches breaking range-horses at from 5 dols. to 20 dols. 324 BREEDS OF PONIES a head accordino- to the deo-ree of " pentleness " required in the animal, and he will probably be paid in horses, for cash is scarce. In the language of the country a horse is either *' gentle" or "wild," the word quiet never being used. An animal which snorts from fear is said to " bluff." Nasty or vicious horses are termed "mean," and those that have become useless from temper after breaking are called "outlaws," which are frequently horses that have escaped from the breaker, and have been lost on the range for two or three years. 1 The rough and ready breaking of the country consists in first "roping" the horse in the corral or pole-fence yard (not " log " fence), either by the neck, when the animal is choked down, or round the forelegs when it is tripped up (localism, " tripped down "). All the legs are then tied together and a blind is bound over the eyes, and the horse saddled and bridled. The broncho buster stands astride his captive while a mate undoes the rope on the legs and may also push up the blind ; but usually the broncho buster leans forward and moves this up himself after the horse has risen to its legs. It may then buck its " darndest." Two mates on gentle horses gene- rally "haze," that is, encourage the broncho to gallop, and steer it clear of trees, wire fences, &c. After a few rides like this the horse is fit for stockmen. Fig. 75. The AUTHORS Montana*Pony, Sage Hen, by Robert the Bruce (See page 329.) \To /ace page 2>7.a,. Fig. 76.— The AUTHOR'S Idaho Pony, Pinto Bill. Held by Mr. Walter Lindsay. (See page 32S.) MONTANA PONIES 32^ Some cattle outfits (firms) regularly employ broncho busters, whose duty it is every morning to "top off;" that is, first mount any of the horses likely to prove too "high lifed " (gay) for the ordinary riders, because empty saddles interfere seriously with the business of the day. Each cow- puncher has his own string of horses, which nobody else rides, and although they soon get quiet with him, this system tends to make "one man" horses of them. Broncho busters rarely meet with acci- dents, but the work is too severe for them to remain long at it. The effort of sitting a really determined buck - jumper will sometimes make the rider spit blood, and a man has even been known to have his neck broken by the sudden jerk of the horse strikino- the crround with stiff leofs. It follows, therefore, that riding a dozen bronchos is a very severe day's work. Among English ranchmen it is more usual to draw up a horse's hind leg to a noose round his neck and to ride him on three legs without any preliminary throwing down, a halter having first been put on, often by pinning him behind a hinge-gate in a corner of the corral. The chief danofer of this method is in mounting, and not in subsequent bucking, as a horse cannot buck hard upon three legs. For the work described, the Mexican stock or cow-saddle, weighing from 25 to 40 lbs., is always used. It may be laid down as an invariable rule that it is quite impossible to ride a horse that really means 326 BREEDS OF PONIES bucking in an English saddle, which in Montana is ironically termed a ''pancake." Although the pluck of the Englishman who attempts this feat commands admiration, he is bound to part company from his mount after the first few jumps. The bit in general use for cattle work has a high narrow port with long cheeks, and is called a " Logan." Many horses learn to catch the cheek with their teeth, to prevent which trick, a bit with large rings is used. Spade bits are also in demand. For cattle work the bit is of little use, except for stopping a horse on the "dead run " (full speed), the guiding and turning being done entirely by neck rein touches. Some men ride only with a hackamore, which is a kind of halter made from rope or horsehair. The Montana horses suitable for hunters and polo ponies may be roughly divided into ''running stock" (racing blood) and "scrubs." Imported stallions are called thoroughbred, but only in the sense that they are of a pure breed ; thus there are thoroughbred hackneys, thoroughbred Clydesdales, &c. The runnino- stock consist of those animals which are known to be bred from imported Eng- lish thoroughbreds, the half breeds being spoken of as "graded" animals and are often described as with one cross, or two crosses, of running stock. Clean thoroughbreds with a pedigree on both sides are termed standard bred or registered. The "scrubs" include all those horses whose parents 1 <--:^ E. GoKDON, Putney, S.W.] Fig. 77.— The AUTHORS Montana Pony, Slap-Jack, by Gingerbread. Held by Tom Bishop, twenty years in the Author's service as Stud-groom. (See page 320.) ¥.. Gordon, Putney, S.W.] {To face page 326. Fig. 78.— The AUTHOR'S Montana Pony. Seabreeze, by Surge. (See page 328.) MONTANA PONIES 327 are of unknown pedigree ; although they may be, and are occasionally, about seven-eighths bred owing to the open range system. A photograph of Terry, an extra good specimen of a ''scrub" polo pony, is given in fig. 2. This pony has perfect manners. ^150 was offered for him when in the rough and only a beginner at polo. Another " scrub " weight carrier, Concha, is show^n in fig. 38, and a third, Sweetwater, a very long shouldered pony and fine hack, in fig. j^. These three ponies were bred by Mr. J. H. Price, who threw up his academic duties at Oxford to take a laro^e horse ranch in Eastern Montana. To the above classes must be added the ** cay use" or pony of the Indian reservation, which is thought to be directly descended from the horses introduced into Mexico by Cortez, and is in reality a modified Barb. These ponies wandered up to Montana in a wild state, and were subsequently reclaimed by the Indians. They often attain polo size, and being reared in the home circle, Arab like, are usually very gentle, for an Indian does not care to trust himself on any- thing that bucks. From mares of this breed crossed with the English thoroughbred, most of the horses of interest to us have originally sprung, which fact, combined with the scarcity of food for three months in the year, has up to the present rendered it difficult to secure hunters of 16 hands and upwards, although it makes animals of polo size more plentiful. 328 BREEDS OF PONIES Fig. 76 is an illustration of an Indian pony, Pinto Bill, imported from Idaho by Mr. Cameron. He was a special favourite of Mr. Walter Lindsay (shown in the photograph) who played him, and rode him when he won the Miles City half-mile open race. The cayuse may at times have an ugly Roman-nosed head with a bottle muzzle, and, like our own coarse bred ponies, he lacks the appearance of blood, but unlike them may atone for these defects by speed and staying power. Ponies of the blood type are figured in the illustrations of Creole, Seabreeze, Sage Hen, and Slap-jack. Creole (fig. 80), by Columbus by Buccaneer out of America, was bred by the Hon. O. H. Wallop, who has done as much as anybody to improve the breed of Montana horses, having imported no less than twelve thoroughbred sires. Creole was broken and ridden by that excellent horsewoman Mrs. Cameron {hg. 79), of the Eve ranch near Terry, Montana. ^150 was offered for this pony. Seabreeze (fig. yS) is another of Mrs. Cameron's ''string" and is by Surge (dam by Self-conceit). ^100 was refused for this speedy mare while still too nervous to be trusted in a game. She was bred by Messrs. Dowson and Lindsay, whose outfit is now pro- bably the largest in Montana, the number of horses owned by them being about 4,000. Mr. Walter Lindsay, who is a successful steeplechase Fig. 79. — Mrs. E. S. CAMERON, on the four-year-old Montana Pony, Creole. E. Gordon, Putney, S.W.I \To face f-age 328. Fig. 80.— The AUTHOR'S Montana Pony, Creole, by Columbus. (See page 32S.) MONTANA PONIES 329 rider, schools the horses himself, and never uses anything but an English saddle. Sage Hen (fig. 75) by Robert the Bruce, dam by Surge, also comes from the Dowson and Lindsay ranch. Slap-jack (fig. yy) by Gingerbread, is a specially promising youngster. Good whole colours are found among the graded horses, and eccentric markings chiefiy among the Indian ponies. A pony of two colours, piebald (black and white) and skewbald (bay or other colour and white) is termed a pinto, or painted pony, and one of three colours is called a calico. The term "sorrel" is always used instead of chestnut, and a dun is known as a ''buckskin" horse. As regfards conformation, " orraded animals" of one or more crosses are very English-looking when in condition ; but at first landino- in Enoland, when weak and poor, they at times show such ewe necks and queer ragged hips as to make it incredible that, with any amount of feeding, they can ever resemble their English prototypes. All have good legs which stand galloping over rough ground, although young specimens will at times throw splints, probably more from striking themselves than by concussion against the ground. They are fine healthy feeders, not too fastidious as to the quality of oats they get, and rarely show thirst even after severe work. It is not judicious at first to give oats too freely, as such a practice is apt to bring on fever in the feet. 330 BREEDS OF PONIES The word pony is rarely used in Montana, the term cattle horse (for cow-pony) is invariable. The word "cowboy" is only used by Englishmen or men of the Eastern States, the proper term being- cow-puncher (or cattle man). In Montana the prices for ponies suitable for polo may be said roughly to run from ^5 to ^15 ; the former being the price at which they may be bought on Indian reservations ; the latter, for picked *' graded" ponies on English-owned ranches. It was also the price I paid per head for mine, free on railway, and handled quiet to ride. Cattle men do not care to sell their best ''cutting" horses, which, if bought, will all be aged, because horses are not considered to know their work, *'have horse sense," until about ten. Even then they may be "one man " horses ; that is, quiet only with the cowman accustomed to ride them, and would not let a stranger handle their legs or ap- proach their heads incautiously. Though handy for cattle work, their mouths might be quite unmade for polo ; in short, they might be very far from the pony of civilisation. The fact of a pony having been used as a cattle horse does not necessarily imply that he will be a good rider out at polo. Probably 90 out of every 100 cattle horses have only been ridden "on circle" looking for cattle, &c., four or five may be "roping" horses, and other four or fivQ "cutting" horses, which really would ride out boldly at polo as they will gallop up to Fig. 81.— Cottontail as a Montana Cattle Horse. Mr. H. Tusler up. See page 331.) E. Gordon, Putney, 5.W.] {To face page 330. Fig. 82.— The AUTHORS Montana Pony, Cottontail. (See page 331 ) MONTANA PONIES 33 1 and *' shoulder" any steer, forcing him in the direc- tion wished. Cotton Tail (fig. 8i), with Mr. H. Tusler up (see also fig. 82), Wolfcatcher [fig. 74), and Cap- tain Bluff (fig. 92), which is the property of Mr. *'Jack" Drybrough, are good-looking specimens of Montana cattle horses. Captain Bluff, for whom ^200 has been refused, played in the winning team of the Paris International Tournament (June, 1897). In selecting young ponies of '* running stock" many difficulties present themselves, as the breeders know little about the requirements of polo men. Days might be uselessly spent galloping about the range with them trying to locate (find) a particular bunch supposed to contain something like polo style. If one is lucky enough to "strike " the bunch, and, more lucky still to find a suitable animal, it is still necessary to catch it, which means driving the whole bunch into a corral, where the selected pony must be roped and thrown for further examination as to age, height, &c., a process that is often destined to end in utterly unreliable measurements with a standard. To save freight, not less than a car load of eighteen ponies should be sent at one time, and the cost per head to London would then run from ^10 to £\^ according to the transport arrangements. The ponies would require six months in E no-land with constant handlinof and attention (meaning money) before they could be taken on to a polo ground. Even then, their prices 33^ BREEDS OF PONIES as promising polo ponies would hardly pay ex- penses, so that the first educationary season over, there would be nearly another year's keep before the next season came round. Of course all the ponies would not turn out well ; some would be too excitable and pull too hard ; others so shy that they would " scare " at other ponies and players ; and a few would never make polo ponies at all. A really gentle, reliable horse is almost unknown in Montana, and one of this sort to carry a side- saddle, with youth and good looks thrown in, is well worth I GO dols. (i^2o) there to-day. As the cattle ponies are all geldings, mares never being used, there is no such thing as an inherited "riding-out" tendency, and my own experience of Montanas, Texans and Argentines, is that they are quite as difficult to train to riding-out as English ponies ; perhaps more difficult, because more ner- vous. Mares broken to saddle are only found on fenced ranches. There is always the risk that a young mare of the range may prove in foal. The gist of the whole matter is that importing Montana ponies tmbroken to polo will never pay. If they have not been thoroughly trained to polo in Montana, the speculation is not worth undertaking, even if the ponies could be had for nothing. A dozen hunters could be made in the time it takes to train one polo pony, and even if the ponies could be found of requisite size, the investment in hunters would be far more profitable. It is irritating to E. Gordon, Putney, S.W.] Fig. 83.— Mr. WALTER McCREERYS Californian Pony, Topo. (See page 335 ) E. Gordon-, Putney, S.W.] \To f„ce page 332. Fig. 84. — Mr. WALTER iVlcCREERYS Californian Pony, Santa Ramona. (See page 335.) CALIFORNIAN PONIES ^^^ know that roaming over Montana prairies there are thousands of excellent ponies purchasable at from £S to ^15 each, good enough to play in Champion Cups, and worth Champion Cup prices when properly broken, yet unavailable simply because the ranch men have not learned how to make them suitable for the English market. Polo has not been played in Montana since the little club started in Miles City by Mr. Lindsay fell through. The cost of paid service is so very high in Montana that it would not pay ranch men to spend time in schooling ponies for problematic sales. A few Montana ponies find their way to Chicago, Buffalo, &c., and are played there. Mr. Mackey and other Chicag^o club men are now brinofine over made ponies, which have found such a ready sale that no doubt the preparation of made polo ponies for export will be greatly stimulated. It is a curious fact that the American polo players in the Eastern States, who are accustomed to Texas ponies, seem to have heard of Montanas only via England. As regards price, however, they are not much better off than Englishmen, the difference in their favour being merely ^5, which represents the amount of freight between New York and England. Californian Ponies. — The Messrs. McCreery, who play with the Burlingame Club (twenty-one miles from San Francisco), have brought over some very fine ponies. There are two other 334 BREEDS OF PONIES clubs in California, both of which play Hurlingham, not American rules. In America there is no "off- side," no "crooking-," &c. In California polo is played all the year round. It is very popular and at times attracts vast crowds. Californian country- bred ponies are chiefly used, though suitable ones are difficult to find, because the polo size is smaller than that of the cattle horse of the country. These ponies are broken at about five years old. For the first six months a hackamore or horse- hair rope halter is used. A Spanish bit is then substituted for another six months before they are entered to cattle work, to become thoroughly pro- ficient at which one or two years are required. Messrs. Donnelly and Dunne, who own several ranches within one hundred miles of San Francisco, supply a large number of high bred ponies by well - known American sires, of which Judge McKinstry, the race horse, was one. There is a good deal of pony racing in California. A I mile in 23 sees, with about 140 lbs. up, is considered to be an extra good performance. " Vigilant," the correspondent of the Spirit of the Times, says that to win sprint races a horse must have cold blood ; that is, he must not be quite thoroughbred. The price of a pony before being entered at polo would be about £20, and he would be expected to play right away. A made pony might bring from ^30 upwards. The high price of 800 dols. was 1 E. GoRDux, Putney, S.W.] Fig. 85. — Mr. WALTER McCREERYS Californian Pony, Juanita. (See page 335.) E. GokD.ix, Putnev, .S.W.] iTo face page 2,1>^- Fig. 86.— Mr. WALTER McCREERYS Californian Pony, Santana. (.See page 335.) CALIFORNIAN PONIES 335 given for Hay Seed, which is now the property of Mr. W. S. Hobart, the crack player of the club. Mr. Walter McCreery, to whom I am indebted for the above information, has three very good ponies by Judge McKinstry. His favourite chest- nut mare, Topo (fig. 83), which is extra smart, had a great reputation in three counties as a cattle horse. I had a ride on her without a bit, only a rope halter, and found her gallop, turn, change her legs, and pull up at the slightest touch in a manner few ponies would do on the severest bit. This charming little mare when sold at auction in June (1898) fetched, in spite of having the use of only one eye, 155 gs. Santana (fig. 86), a good-looking brown mare, is thoroughbred. Juanita {fig. 85), a very nice bay mare, comes with a high reputation from California. Topo and Santana are well known on London grounds. Santa Ramona (fig. 84), a very handy dun mare, is up to weight and is an excellent player. Mr. Lawrence McCreery has recently brought over the twelve best selected foreign ponies I have ever seen. On the dav I am writino- this I have had the privilege of looking round them in their boxes at Kibworth (near Market Harboro'), unfor- tunately in their owner's absence, but under the escort of his brother. Althouo-h thev are in the roueh, and have hardlv recovered from their lono- journey, I am greatly taken with them. They are all lamb quiet, have beautifully clean limbs, the best ^^6 BREEDS OF PONIES of sloped shoulders, and grand galloping quarters Three short-backed ones, two browns and a spotted roan I specially fancy and am not surprised to hear they are favourites with their owner ; for I agree with Captain Hayes that if you can get a short back with racing length of limbs and long shoulders you have a treasure. One big brown mare of the same stamp, marked J. D., I would very much like to steal. Then there is a young chestnut mare (a little race horse), a powerful bay, and a big chestnut-dun or cream said to be something extra. In short, all are good. These ponies are imported for private use. Their selection was a matter of time, of persevering search, and no little expense. They made a record journey (for horses) from San Francisco to New York, doing the distance in six days and half an hour, including one rest of fourteen hours. Mr. Lawrence McCreery played back for Cambridge team (with Mr. Buckmaster) when it was at its best. He is a finished horseman, an excellent polo player, and a rare man to hounds. He can evidently pick a good one as well as ride one. Since writing the above I have frequently seen my friend's ponies played at Hurlingham, and I am confirmed in the high opinion I had formed of them. Their owner has kindly given me photo- graphs of five favourites. I still prefer the big- brown "J. D." mare (fig. 88). She is called Dolly Varden (the Californian name of a variety of E. Gordon, Putney, S.W.] Fig. 87.— Mr. LAWRENCE McCREERY'S Californian Pony, So Easy. (See page 337.) E. Gordon, Putney, S.W.] \_To face page 336. Fig. 88.— Mr. LAWRENCE IVIcCREERY'S Californian Pony, Dolly Varden. (See page 336.) MEXICAN PONIES 2>2>7 trout), is by McKInstry, and was considered to be the best pony on the San FeHpe ranch. She is very intelligent looking, and has perfectly sloped shoul- ders, great girth, and powerful hind-quarters. So Easy (fig. ?>']) is another beautiful brow^n mare by McKinstry ; a charming pony to ride — I think she may safely be called her owner's pet. High Life (fig. 35) is a specially good-looking chestnut mare. She is thoroughbred, and is out of a well-known race-winner. Hats Off (hg. 89), a handsome bay by Red Iron, is, like his stable companions, a very fine player. The chestnut mare. Three Cheers (fig. 90) looks and gallops like a race horse. She is by Oas, brother in blood to Iroquois. MEXICAN PONIES. My friend Mr. Eric Reay Clarke, writing from Paso del Pinole, Cerro Gordo, Estado de Durango, Mexico, sends me the following particulars of the ponies of that country. *' Fifty or sixty years ago," he remarks, "Texas belonged to Mexico, and the horses of the two countries were then identical in breed. Lately the Texas horses have been improved by Northern importations. Cortez was the first to introduce horses, probably Spanish Barbs, into Mexico, and the French improved the breed when they occupied that country. " The way of breeding horses is about the same on the large ranges in Texas and Mexico. The mares run in ' manadas ' or lots of from fifteen to twenty- 22 338 BREEDS OF PONIES five, which the respective stallions keep together. When the fillies are two years old they are cut out of the manada and are given to other stallions, thus forming new manadas. Mares begin foaling about March, and the foals are branded towards the end of the year. The colts to be broken are generally caught as 3-year-olds, and in Mexico are ridden for about a year in a ' hackamore ' or halter made of horsehair, with a tight noseband to which reins of rope are attached ; w^hen the horse learns to turn and stop quickly, a bit is used along with the hackamore for some months. '* If the cowboy, or vaque7'0, who has been breaking the colt has good hands, the horse will be certain to have an almost perfect mouth. In cutting out or roping cattle, these horses must be able to turn and stop very quickly, and they are so quick in their movements that it takes a man all his time to stick to a really good cow-pony. As a rule, these animals buckjump when first ridden, which is not to be wondered at, as they are kept in a corral and get no handling before being saddled. In order to be ridden they are roped and thrown by the forefeet ; the hackamore is put on them, they are saddled and mounted, and they go off at full gallop. Some of them when taken up and stable fed are very gentle, but as a rule the horses of cowboys in Mexico are not to be trusted. The gentle horses on a ranch are herded together and called the * remuda.' E. Gordon, Putney, S.W.] Fig. 89. — Mr. LAWRENCE McCREERYS Californian Pony, Hats Off. (See page 337.) E Gordon, Putney, S.W.] {To face page 338. Fig. 90.— Mr. LAWRENCE McCREERY'S Californian Pony, Three Cheers (See page 337.) MEXICAN PONIES 339 *' Each vaquero has a certahi number of horses for his riding, and when it is possible all hands ride new selections of horses every day, which is one reason why these animals do not get better broken, as on some ranches there are so many horses that the days upon which they are ridden come only once or twice a month. The Mexican mares are very productive and we are wondering what is to be done with the increase. Before the McKinley tariff of 1890, when 30 dols. duty was imposed on horses from Mexico entering the States, hundreds of ponies were imported on hoof and by trail to Texas and the Northern States to be used in working cattle. The duty was then 20 per cent, on the invoice value, and mares were allowed to pass free of duty on the owner making a declara- tion that they were for breeding purposes. They were sold in nearly all the States at a good profit ; for the dealers bought for silver and sold for gold. Picked mares were bought in Mexico for less than £\, and broken horses for about 30s. The size of Mexican ponies averages from 13 to I4i hands. They are the toughest ponies I have ever seen. They think nothing of forty or fifty miles a day, off grass, and a good 13 hand pony will hold a bull of more than double his own weight lassoed to the horn of the saddle. The Texas horses are now taller and heavier, but for workingf cattle and rouohino- it I prefer a small thickset Mexican to any other. Our 340 BREEDS OF PONIES racing- ponies here are all short distance ones, 300 yards being the usual length of a race. As long a distance as 400 yards is rarely run. The time for 300 yards for a fair pony is from 15^ to 16 sees. There are distinct family likenesses in the horse stocks on the different ranges, in temper, make, and quality, and horses of a known good stock always sell fairly well. " At present all kinds of horses are cheap. Mares can be bouofht for los., and oood horses from the remudas at from 50s. to 60s. Stable fed ones that are well broken vary in price from ^5 to ^20, which limit is rarely obtained. Stallions are now being brought in from the States, so I expect we will have a bigger horse in the future. The climate and pasture is good for horse breeding, and a drought needs to be very severe before the horses die." Mr. Clarke is chiefly engaged in breeding mules, which have always a ready sale. I owned one smart Mexican pony which had gone on hoof to Montana herdino- cattle. He was an EnoHsh- looking blood bay, and has been played during the last two seasons by Mr. Robert Usher, the Edinburgh M.F.H. One of the ponies in Mr. Thorn's three-a-breast yoke (fig. 25) is a Mexican. When passing through New Mexico and Texas some years ago, I was told that I could ship ponies to England by the cattle steamers from Galveston, Texas, trucking them there under bond from Mexico. Fig. 91. — Mr. W. R. COURTS Argentine Pony, Aluminium. (See page 343.) [ To face page 340. Fig. 92.— Mr W J. DRYBROUGH'S Montana Pony, Captain Bluff. (See page 331.) ARGENTINE PONIES 34 1 From the above information it appears probable that they could be landed in England at prices less than buyers here are accustomed to pay for small pit ponies. ARGENTINE PONIES. Only a few years ago Argentine, or La Plata ponies had a very bad name in England, and were considered ugly coarse, slow, and queer tempered. The market was flooded by speculators who were sending over shiploads of unhandled and unsuitable ponies, which, in order to get rid of them, were sent to auction sales all over the country and sold for anything they would bring. The result was that the farmers, tradesmen and others who were induced to buy, found themselves the owners of poor, nervous, knocked about, and quite unmanage- able animals that were little better than wild beasts. Failing to break them on the English system, they attempted to imitate what they were told were native methods, such as tying them to posts, choking them with lassos, and other brutalities. Naturally many were spoilt, and those which became quiet were often hardly worth the trouble of breaking. A few cargoes of these animals ruined the market, and it became necessary only to see a brand on a pony to refuse him at any price. A few well trained Argentine ponies, however, found their way to this country, the majority having been sent to Liverpool clubs by friends who played 342 BREEDS OF PONIES polo at Buenos Ay res. Later on, visiting teams came over and brought their ponies with them. The members of these teams quickly saw what was required, and they found that it was worth their while to bring over clever performers which they could sell well at the end of their visit. The quality of these ponies has gradually im- proved from very moderate to very useful, with occasionally extra good specimens. The ordinary ones make useful club ponies, while the best are so good that men who formerly would have disdained to ride Argentines are now glad to play them in matches of the highest class. Their latest and best advertisement has been the fact that Messrs. E. D. and G. A. Miller, who of all men have the best chances of riding the most valuable English ponies, played three of them in the winning team of last year's Champion Cup.* This fact is sure to give a great impetus to their importation. Speed is not yet the prominent feature of Argentines, their speciality being extreme handiness, and cleverness at riding-out, which is of course entirely dependent on breaking and selection at the other side. Some of these ponies, though looking common, have ex- ceptionally easy paces. My xA^rgentine pony San- cho, a heavy looking cob, was as easy to sit on as an armchair. He started galloping without shaking '•' BisjJiark, one of the three ponies played by Mr. W. J. Drybrough in the final of the Open Champion Cup, 1898, is an Argentine. Fig. 93. — Mr. AUBERON STOURTON'S Argentine Pony, Peter. (See page 345.) [ To face page 342 Fig. 94. — Mr. AUBERON STOURTON'S Argentine Pony, Chacerero. (See page 345.) ARGENTINE PONIES 343 me in my saddle, and had a curious method when turning quickly of dropping his quarters under him, as if sitting down, and then propping round off his forelegs like a rabbit. Captain Hoare told me that his Argentine pony. Aluminium (fig. 91), galloped " like oil." The best Argentine ponies I have known were the famous Yankee, then played by Captain Gordon, and those owned by Liverpool and Wirral friends, none of which ponies were very fast. I am indebted to Mr. Auberon Stourton, Holme Hall, York, for the following information. In the Argentine Republic, the native horse is called a Criollo, and English crosses are termed Mestizos. The Province Entre Rios, a wooded country, is a good one for native ponies, but English bred ones are more likely to be found in Santa Fe. The usual size for cattle work is 14 hands to 14.3 They are broken at four or five years old, are fairly quiet before handling, and though they crowd nervously together, they are not dangerous with their feet. Breaking is primitive but effective. No bit is used at first, a bocado or raw hide thong being substi- tuted. The aim of the domador or breaker is to sovar (supple) the pony's neck to the pull or pressure of the rein. Bits vary according to the province, but no snaffles are used. The Buenos Ayres bit has a high port with a wheel on it, and some have hinged ports (see fig. 4, No. 9). Lasso practice and shouldering cattle educate these ponies for polo work. 344 BREEDS OF PONIES The Gauchos (natives) are superb horsemen, and can start a pony quicker and get more out of him than any EngHsh resident. They are fine polo players, with extraordinary freedom of reach, but are apt to be excitable, and are rather contemptuous of the horsemanship of Gringhos (foreigners). The native saddle (recado) permits of more liberty in leanino- over and similar movements, than the English saddle. The ponies are shod and grain (maize) fed, only in towns. In camp they may get dried alfalfa (lucern). There are no stones to harden their feet, but the ground gets baked like iron in summer. They race on hard tracks (canchas) cleared of turf. The polo grounds have good turf, but are very hard and often dusty. The ponies go best on hard ground. Hurlingham rules are played, but boards are not yet in use. The polo season is our summer, which is their winter. A made polo pony costs about ^20, and good, trained cattle ponies, ready to play, vary in price from ^15 to ^20. Chance animals fetch any sums below these quoted. The best way to buy ponies is to keep an eye on the weekly Sunday racing at the Pittperias (public houses), which is an amusement indulged in by all Gauchos. The distances are counted by quadras (squares) of 150 metres each. The length of a race may be anything between 300 and 1,000 metres, and the weights are 60 or 65 kilos. Mr. R. Scott-Moncrieff, La Quinta, Quilmas, Buenos Fig. 95.— Mr. MUNROE WALKER'S Argentine Pony, Sandow. iTo face page 344. Fig. 96.— IVlr. MUNROE WALKER'S Argentine Pony, Siavin, ARGENTINE PONIES 345 Ayres, has generally a good selection of ponies for sale. There are three or four polo clubs In the town of Buenos Ayres alone. The voyage to Liverpool, which takes about a month, Is borne well by the ponies that are sent over. The freight Is £6 per pony, fodder Included. The best plan Is to take ten places for seven ponies, so that there Is room to get about them and for them to He down, and also to stipulate for a second class passage for one's own man (at a cost of ^lo for ten ponies), and take one's own fodder which consists of a mixture of maize, alfalfa, and lots of bran, which Is damped when used. Mr. Stourton has half a dozen of these ponies at York, and Intends Importing annually and playing at Rugby. Chacarero (fig. 94), a grey. Is a weight carrier and good polo pony. He won races at Buenos Ayres till he was handicapped out. Menellk (fig. 72), dark fawn and white (overo), is a quick good player, with a fine mouth. Peter (fig. 93), whose sire and dam were half-bred. Is also a fine player. These three are Criollo ponies from Entre Rios. Figs. 48, 95 and 96 are photographs of Langosta, Sandow and Slavin, which were played in the Champion Cup Team, 1897. Mr. Scott Robson, the brilliant ambidextrous Back, who imported Langosta, an exceptionally fast pony and probably the best Argentine In England, generally brings over some picked ponies annually. Mr. F. Balfour, a very smart Forward, 34^ BREEDS OF PONIES imported Sandow and Slavln. Other members of their team sell at the end of the season. The fol- lowing- list of colours, which are used in Argentina, may interest my readers, and was given to me by Mr. Stourton. Oscuro (black), zaino (brown), Colorado (bay), tordilla (grey), bianco (white), overo (mixed colours), layo (cream), rosillo (red roan), moro (blue roan), mala cara (brown or bay with white face and legs), picaso (black with white legs and face). % SUNDRY BREEDS (INCLUDING RUSSIAN). A FEW Indian country-breds have been played in England. I am informed that the very best of them are better than Arabs, which as a general rule are to be preferred ; for country-breds are very apt to be queer tempered and otherwise unsuitable. A Cape pony occasionally finds its way to Eng- land. Major Rimington, who has played these ponies in their own country, tells me that they are often very useful. Last year Captain Bruce played a very handy one, Jess (fig. 97), which is now the property of Captain Renton, and was played by him this year (1898) in the open Champion Cup. I once imported four very smart, light weight French ponies, which were kindly purchased for me in the province of Gers, by the then director of the Haras at Tarbes. One of them, a beautiful young chestnut mare, Belle de Tour, which was in the E. Gordon, Putney, S.W.] Fig. 97.— Captain RENTON S Cape Pony, Jess. Played in Open Champion Cup, 1898. (See page 346.) E. Gordon, Putney, S.W. {To face page 346. Fig. 98.-Lord W. A. CAVENDISH-BENTINCK'S Australian Pony, Seagull. SUNDRY BREEDS 347 French stud book, made seventy guineas at Tatter- sail's, though unentered at polo. I have attended several fairs and remount inspections in France without being able to buy anything. Any pony that would have suited me, would have at once been picked up for the Reuionte. French ponies are apt to be small boned, and are often very nervous. If not bought quite young they are likely to be put to heavy harness work and spoiled. In Italy I have hack-hunted a pony of the true polo stamp, and have seen some well-shaped ones workino- in the tram cars. Amono^ the thousands bred on the Roman Compagnia there must be many suitable for polo, but I failed to get the dealers there to show me anything like what I wanted. One of the best small ponies I ever sat behind in a trap came from Sardinia. If they have polo sized ponies there, they should be very smart. I know nothing about German ponies, but I have seen good ponies at Vienna. In a country so cele- brated for good horses and skilled horsemen as Austria, I have no doubt there must be plenty of ponies suitable for polo. In Spain I believe they import Barbs, and occa- sionally ponies from Mexico or Argentina. I am pleased to be able to add to my list of illus- trations a photograph of Mr. Buckmaster's Cana- dian pony Bendigo (fig. lOo), which he tells me is, with the exception of the English pony Sunshine, the best polo pony he has ever owned. Bendigo won twenty-three races in Canada. 34^ BREEDS OF PONIES Another good foreigner Is Lord W. A. Cavendish - Bentinck's AustraHan pony Seagull {fig, 98), which has played in several Inter-regimental tournaments. So far as England is concerned, I think our best foreign importations are likely to come from North and South America. I hear that one or two Russian ponies have been played in England. Prince Seroe Belosselsky. with whom I have had the pleasure of paying in the south of France, has most successfully started a polo club in St. Peters- burg. He very kindly sends me some photographs of ponies played by him there, and also particulars of the available breeds, which are Cossacks (Kabar- dines from the Caucasus) ; half-breds, by Arabs out of different kinds of mares ; some pure Arabs bred in Russia ; and a few ponies, or rather dwarf horses, by English thoroughbreds out of half-bred mares. The last mentioned are very difficult to find and expensive to seek ; for, as they are scattered over the country, an intending purchaser has immense distances to travel to examine them before buying. The pure Arabs come from Padolia from the stud of Prince Sangoushko, who keeps up that breed. The half-bred Arabs, also from Padolia, have usually to be broken by the purchaser, which is a serious draw^back. The Cossack ponies are likely to be most used, as they arrive ready broken and are very cheap, costing in the Caucasus from 60 to 120 roubles (^6 to ;^I2), and averaging on delivery Fig. 99.— Half-bred Arab and Russian Pony. Property of Prince Serge Belosselsky. K. Gc'RDuN, Putney, S.W.] [ To face page 3^ Fig. 100.— Mr. W. BUCKIVIASTER S Canadian Pony, Bendigo. (.See page 347.) Fig. 101.— Prince SERGE BELOSSELSKY, on Captain. Anglo-Russia Pony. (See page 348.) [Toy ace page 34 E Fig. 102.— Prince SERGE BELOSSELSKY, on Snip. Arab Pony bred in Russia. (See page 348.) Fig. 103.— Cossack Pony, Grayling. Property of Prince Serge Belosselsky. (See page 348.) {After page 348. Fig. 104.— Half-bred Arab and Russian Pony. Property of Prince Serge Belosselsky. (See page 348.) 4\ n ^^^ E. Gordon, Putney, S.W.] [After ^age 348 Fig. 105.-A POLO "BACK." Caricature Sketch by Dr. G. A. Fothergill. Mr. " Jack ■' Drybrough, on Magic Spell. (See page 302.) SUNDRY BREEDS 349 at Petersburg only about 200 roubles (^20) each. These ponies are described as hardy, and up to lots of weight. They turn and twist well, but are sometimes a bit hard to stop. As regards speed, they compare favourably with imported English and American ponies of a useful club stamp ; indeed, they occasionally ga.Hvjp away from them. Particu- lars of each pony illustrated is given under its photo- graph (see figs. 99, 10 1, 102, 103, 104). The club owns an excellent oround in Krestofski Ostrof, near Petersburo-, laroer than either of our London grounds, and there is a commodious pavilion and stabling for about fifty ponies. The ground was presented to the club by Prince Belosselsky, Prince Serge's father. The playing members are as yet chiefly English and other residents, but officers are gradually joining, in spite of the fact that they have to go to camp during summer ; so polo in the Russian capital may now be said to have fairly ''caught on." I congratulate the Prince on his success, and hope before long to see him in London with a team competing for the Inter- national Cup. • 00 o APPENDIX. PRINCIPAL TOURNAMENTS AND WINNERS. HURLINGHAM OPEN CHAMPION CUP. Date. Winners. Date. 1877. Monmouthshire Club. 1889. 1878. Monmouthshire Club. 1879. Hurlingham Club. 1890. 1880. Sussex County Club. I89I. 1881. Sussex County Club. 1892. 1882. Sussex County Club. 1893- 1883. Sussex County Club (walked over). 1884. Freebooters. 1894. 1885. Sussex County Club. 1895. 1886. Freebooters. 1896, 1887. Freebooters. 1897. 1888. Sussex County Club. 1898, Winners. Sussex County Club (walked over). Sussex County Club. Sussex County Club. Sussex County Club. Sussex County Club (walked over, but did not take the Cup). Freebooters. Freebooters. Freebooters. Rugby. Rugby. Ranelagh Open Challenge Cup. 1897. Ranelagh. Hurlingham Inter-Regimental Tournament. 1878. 1879. 1880. 1881. 1882. 1883. 1884. 1885. 1886. 1887. 1888. 1889. 5th Lancers. 5th Lancers. 1 6th Lancers. 1 6th Lancers. 5th Lancers. 7th Hussars. 7th Hussars. 7th Hussars. 7th Hussars. 5th Lancers, loth Hussars. 9th Lancers. 1890. 1891. 1892. 1893. 1894. 1895. 1896. 1897. 1898. 9th Lancers. 9th Lancers. 13th Hussars loth Hussars. 13th Hussars. 13th Hussars. 9th Lancers. Inniskillings goons). Inniskillings goons). (3rd (3rd Dra- Dra- Ranelagh Subalterns' Cup. 1896. 9th Lancers. 1897 and 1898. Royal Horse Guards (The Blues). Date. 1885. 1886. 1887. 1889. 1890. 1878. 1879- 1880. 1881. 1882. 1883. 1884. 1885. 1886. 1887. 1886. 1887. 1888. 1889. 1890. 1891. 1892. APPENDIX 1 HURLINGHAM County Cup. Winners. Date. Winners. Gloucestershire Club. 189I. Liverpool Club. Gloucestershire Club. 1892. County Meath Club. Derbyshire County Club 1893- Edinburgh Club. (walked over). 1894. Edinburgh Club. Kent County Club. 1895. Rugby Club. Barton -under- Xeedwood 1896. Stansted Club. Club. 1897. Rugby. Berkshire County Club. All Ireland Open Cup. 7th Royal Fusiliers. 1888. All Ireland Polo Club, 7th Hussars. 1889. Freebooters. Scots Greys. 1890. All Ireland Polo Club. 5th Lancers. 189I. 13th Hussars. All Ireland Polo Club. 1892. 9th Lancers. County Carlow Club. 1893. 13th Hussars. 5th Lancers. 1894. 15th Hussars. Freebooters. 1895. Freebooters. Freebooters. 1896. 13th Hussars. All Ireland Polo Club. 1897. Rugby. All Ireland Reglmental Challenge Cup. loth Hussars 1893. 9th Lancers. 1 6th Lancers. 1894. loth Hussars. 3rd Hussars. 1895. 13th Hussars. 4th Hussars. 1896. loth Hussars. 4th Hussars. 1897. Inniskillings (3rd ] 15th Hussars. goons). 51 Dra- 13th Hussars. Bibliography. The following is a list of Publications on Polo : — Modem Polo^ E. D. Miller ; Polo {Badminton Library)^ J. Moray Brown ; Polo^ J. Moray Brown (Vinton and Co.) ; Polo in India, G. J. Young- husband ; The Polo Magazine (monthly), Captain F. Herbert ; The Hiirlingham Polo Calendar, Captain F. Herbert ; Statio7i Polo, "Lucifer"; Hints to Polo Players in hidia, Captain H. de B. De Lisle ; The Game of Polo, T. F. Dale. Encyclopcedia of Sport, Article by Major F. Herbert. 35 INDEX. Accessories, Polo, 23 Accidents, ii, 280 Adamthwaite, Mr. Charles, 203 Algerian Barbs, 309 All Ireland Open Cup, 351 All Ireland Regimental Challenge Cup, 351 Aluminium, 343 Amazon, 295 Amber, 7 American ponies, North, 311 Analysis of rules, 236 Ansell, Mr., 144, 212, 311 Anson, Mr., 316 Appendix, 350 Arab ponies, 301 Argentine ponies, 341 Armstrong, Mr. C, 100 Australian pony, 348 Awfully Jolly, 297 Back-hand hitting, 155, 159 Backing up, 173 Back's pony, 190, 191 Balfour, Mr. F., 345 Ball, Carrying the, 276 ,, Command of the, 143 ,, Damaged, 278 ,, out, 277 Balls, 31, 239 Ball when hitting, Position of, 155, 162 Bandages, 109, I lo Barb ponies, 308 Baskets, Ball, 64 Baths, 68 Bedouin, 308 " Behind," 277 " Behind the line," 254 Bell, 63, 252 Belle de Tour, 346 Belosselsky, Prince, 348 Bending, 123 Bendigo, 347 Bentinck, Lord C. C, fig. 9 Bibliography, 351 Big ponies, 20, 256 Billy, 315 Bimbashi, 86, 305, 308 Bishop, Tom, fig. 77 Bismark, 86 Bits, 95 ,, in Montana, 326 Black Bella, 295 Blind of an eye, Pony, 282 Blinkers, 282, 284 Bluffing, 283 Boards, 17, 49 Board, Scoring, 63 Boots, Riding, 36 ,, for ponies, 109 Brakes, Carriage, 140 Branded ponies, 320 Breaking, 96 Breeches, 33 Breeds of ponies, 291 Bridles, 95 Broncho busters, 323, 325 Bronchos, 323 Brown, Mr. Moray, 232 Bruce, Captain, 346 Buckjumpers, 97, 325 Buckmaster, Mr. Walter, 18, 40, 144, 159, 213, 217, 239, 263, 264, 266, 269, 272, 295, 312, 313..315 Bumping, 256 Burlingame Club, 333 Butting with the head, 274 • Bye-Laws, Hurlingham, 284 Cairo ponies, 303 Californian ponies, 333 California, Racing in, 334 Cameron, Mr. E. S., 319 Mrs., 328 Cammel, Mr., 317 Campbell, Mr., fig. 9 Canadian pony, 347 Canes, 25 INDEX 030 Cap, 313 Cape ponies, 346 Caps, 39 Captain (fig. loi), 349 Captain Bluff, 331 Captaining a team, 222 Carrying the ball, 276 " Cayuse," 327 Cavendish-Bentinck, Lord W. A., 348 Chacerero, 345 Chairs, 69 Champion Cup conditions, 290 Changing ends, 277 legs, 131 ,, ponies, 251 Charmer, 93 Charlton, 9, 86, 87, 295, 299 Chatterbox, 300 Check-stroke, 150 Chicago, 317 Chief of Oran, 309 Choosing a pony, 82 Church, Mr., fig. 12 Cicely, 300 Cid, 97, 310 Clarke, Mr, Eric Reay, ^^7, 340 Clear, Ground to be kept, 280 Club management, 70 ,, pony, 90 Club, Starting a, 71 Cold winters, 321 Colorado ponies, 319 Colours, Club, 285 „ in Argentina, 346 ,, ,, Montana, 329 Combination, 167 Concha, 86, 327 Conformation, S^ Cork pavement, 107 Cortez, 327, 337 Cossack ponies, 348 Cotton Tail, 86, 331 County Club Cup Rules, 288 ,, Cup, Hurlingham, 351 Cowboy, 330 Cow-puncher, 330 ,, „ Texas, 275 Crawley, Captain, 309 Cream, 69 Creole, S6, 99, 318, 328 Crooking, 175, 268 Crossing, 185, 255 ,, fore legs, 14, 306 Cutting grass, 56 ,, a ball, 149, 151, 165 Dale, Mr. T. F., 3, 232 2^ Daly, Captain, 19, 262, 263, 264, 267, 269, 272, 274 Dance, 313 Dangers of polo, 9 Darge, Mr. F. B , fig. 8 Demagogue, 318 De Trafford, Sir Humphrey, 312 Diamond, 313, 315 Disabling player, 277 Disregarding umpire's injunctions, 282 Dokhul Singh, 143, 144, 149, 213, 302 Dolly Varden, 336 Donnelly and Dunne, Messrs., 334 " Dooker," 232 Dowson and Lindsay, Messrs., 328 Drawing a ball, 149, 156 Dress, 33 Drybrough, Mr. W. J. ("Jack") 18, 40, 99, 115, 144, 145, 159, 193, 203, 213, 239, 262, 263, 265, 266, 269, 272, 274, 309 Duncan, Air. Alexander, 315 Duration of play, 249 Duties of players, 178 Dynamite, 87, 299 Early Dawn, 300 Eastbourne, 62 Edinburgh Polo Club, 17, 62, 65 Egerton-Green, Captain, 213, 2i8, 239, 261, 263, 264, 266, 269, 272, 277 Eileen, fig. 6 Elastic, 93 Elbow hustling, 273 Elijah, 303 Ellison, Captain, fig. 9 El Reno, 317 English ponies, 295 Evy, fig. 13 Exercise, 109 Expenses of polo, 5 Fair play, 13, 177 Farwell, Mr., 313 Financing, 70 Fitz, Champion, 9, 298 Fitz-Gerald, Captain, fig. 8 Fizzer, 300 Flags, 59, 61 Forward stroke, 151, 160 Fothergill, Sketch by Dr., fig 105 Foul, A, 276 Four-in-hand, 138 Fox-Strangways, Captain, 305 Freake, Mr., 19 354 INDEX French ponies, 346 Fritz, 97 Fryer, Mr,, fig. 6 Fuller, Mr. W., 319 Fusilier, 295, 312, 315 Game, Commencement of, 249 ,, Playing the, 167 Games, Arranging members', 73 Gauchos, 344 Gingerbread, 323 Girths, 94. Gloves, 40 Goal hitting, 145 ,, posts, 60 ,, watchers, 253 Goals, 237 ,, Gaining, 253 Gold, 299 Gordon, Captain, 343 " Graded " horses, 312 Graham, Mr. Fred, 302 Grayling (fig. 103), 349 Ground, Breadth of 46 ,, Length of, 44 ,, Polo, 41 Size of 237, 238 ,, to be kept clear, 280 IlACKAMORE, 334, 338 Haig, Mr. Neil, 115, 144, 145, 218 Hamburg, 21 Hardy, Mr. Gerald, 3, 19, 295, 300 Harlequin, 7, 8 Harness, Ponies in, 138 Harrington, Lord, 99, 297, 313 Hasperg. Mr, H,, 21 Hats Off, 337 Hay, Mr. Bertie, 314 Hayes, Captain, 85, no, 118, 301, 303, 336 Height of ponies, 236 Herbert, Captain, 32, 297 " Herder," A, 322 Herzig, Mr., 316 Higgin, Mr., fig. 6 High Life, 337 Plit, Length of hard, 145 Hitting at adversary's stick, 268 ,, behind, 254 ,, out, 180, 195 Hoare, Captain, 343 Hobson, Mr. G. W., 206 Horse-breaking in Argentina, 343 ,, „ _ ,, Montana, 324 Horsemanship, Polo, 113 Housemaid, 295 Hustling, 256, 274 Huzzor, 297, 302 Idaho ponies, 319, 328 Indian country bred ponies, 346 ,, Territory ponies, 316 Interposing, 256, 262. Inter-Regimental Tournament, Hurlingham, 330 Italian ponies, 347 Jack in the box, 295 Jelbart, W., 97 Jenner, Captain, fig. 9 Jenny, fig. 12 Jess, 346 Joe, fig, 6 Joe Cotton, 316 Jones, Mr, W. J,, 19 ,, Mr. Patrick, 314, 315 Juanita, 335 Judge McKinstry, 334, 337 Keeping ball on right hand, 266 Khalifa, 9, 86, 88, 99, 305 Ladies alone. Leave, 235 Lady Doncaster, 9, 103 Lady Jane, 300 Ladysmaid, 300 Langosta, 295, 345 Lariat, 322 Lasso, 322 Leathers, Stirrup, 95 Left-handed players, 282, 283 Le Gallais, Captain, 31, 302 Leg indications, 120 Lightfoot, 319 Lindsay, Mr, Walter, 328 Little Fairy, 295, 300 ,, Rondo, 316, Livery, 105 Lord Dalmahoy, 295 Lottery tournament, 72 Luna, 97, 295, 300, 317 Lyle, Mr, Harvey, 319 Mackenzie, Mr, J. H., 29 Mackey, Mr. F. J., 313, 316, 333 MacLaren, Captain, 3, 28, 115, 143, 159, 193 Magic, 297, 303 ,, Spell, 302 " Making" ponies, 92 Malta, 309 " Manadas " 337 Management, Club, 70 Marjoribanks, Hon. D. C, rig. 8 INDEX 355 Marking back line, «&c., 59 Martingales, 102 Matchbox, 295, 300 Matches, Inter-club, 72 Maximilian, 314 McCreery, Messrs., 333, 335, 336 Measurement, Rules for, 285 Measurer, Official, 285 Members' games, Arranging, 73 Mecca (fig. 11), 302 Menelik, 345 Mexican ponies, 337 Mickey, tig. 12 Miles City, 333 Miller, Messrs., 89, 91, 92, 105, 238, 247, 262, 269, 342. Miller, Mr. C. D., 302 „ Mr. E. D., I, 64, 97, 159, 218, 225, 239, 246, 266, 279, 295 „ Mr. G. A., 206, 266, 295 Modena (fig. 45), 302 Moncrieffe, Mr. M., 318 Montana, 320 ,, Horsebreedingin, 322, 323 ,, Horses in, 326 ,, ponies, 319 Moonlight, 311 Mortimer, Mr. Stanley, 316 Moss, Peat, 106 Mounting, 115 Mowing, 56 Myall, fig. 8 Nimble, 300 Nipcat, 295 No. I, Duties of, 188, 189, 194 >j 2, ,, ,, 207 ,, 3> j> 5> 212, 218 y, 4, » » 179 Number of players, 249, 285 Nurse, fig. 8 Oats, Russian, 107 Officers, Election of, 284 Off-side, 248, 270 Old brandy, 7, 8 Onwentsia Polo Club, 317 Open Challenge Cud. Ranelagh, 350 Open Champion Cup, Hurlinghom, 350 Origin of polo, 16 Over-reaching, no Passing balls, 171 Pavilions, 66 Peat, Mr. Arthur, 19 „ Mr. J. E. ("Johnnie"), 18, 299 Peat moss, 106 Pedder, Captain, 206 Peggy, fig. 12 " Periods," 250 Peter, 345 Peter's wife, fig. 6 Pinto, 316 ,, Bill, 86, 32ji Play, Duration of, 249 ,, Rough, 273 Player, Disabling, 277 Players, Number of, 249, 285 ,, Positions of, 181, 254 Ponies, Breeds of, 291 ,, for polo, 291 „ Height of, 236 ,, Sundry breeds of, 346 ,, Work done by polo, no Pony, Club, 90 ,, The polo, 82 " Possession," 257, 263 Pretty Girl, 295 Price, Mr. J. H., 323, 327 Price of ponies, 7, 90 Programme cards, 72 Progress of polo, 16 Push, The, 159 Ranch, 320 Ranger, 316 Rasper, 295, 300 Rawlinson, Captain, 143, 206, 212, 295 Referee, 239, 245 Refreshments, 69 Regimental pony clubs, 77 Registration of ponies, 284 Reining back, 133 Reins, Holding the, 118 Long, 119 " Remuda," 338 Rent of field, 48 Renton, Captain, 143, 211, 212, 295> 300 Reporting matches, 231 Riding, 113 out, 135, 174, 255, 261 Rimington, Major, 100, 115, iiS, M4. 159. 259, 261, 263, 264, 266, 269, 272, 279, 346 Right hand. Keeping ball on, 266 Robert Emmet, 31S Robson, Mr. Scott, 345 Rochfort, Mr, Horace, 7 Robin, 297 Rolling, 54 Rondo, 315 Rose, Mr. C. E,, fig, 8 56 INDEX Rough play, 273 Rugby Team, Ponies of, 295 Rules, Ilurlingham, 236 ,, Knowledge of, I Running reins, loi Russian ponies, 348 Saddle, Argentine, 344 ,, Mexican, 325 Saddles, 93 Sage Hen, 328, 329 Said, 305 Sailor, 93, 299 Saliba, Mr., 310 Sancho, 342 Sandiway, 298 Sandow, 295, 346 Sangoushko, Prince, 348 Santa Ramona, 335 Santana, 335 Saiin, fig. 13 Savage, 313 Savage and Connover, Messrs., 313, 316 Schooling, 122 Scoring board, 63 Scott-Moncrieff, Mr. R., 344 " Scrubs,'' 312 Seabreeze, 86, 98, 328 Seagull, Arab pony, 303 ,, Australian pony, 348 Shamrock, 7, 8 Shelters, Pony, 64 Shirts, 39 Shortening time, 284 Silvertail, fig. 6 Sirdar, 305 Slap-Jack, 86, 323, 328, 329 Slavin, 295, 346 Slicing the ball, 157 Slopes, Turf, 50 Smithson, Captain, 145 Snip (fig. 102), 349 Snow, Scraping away, 321 So Easy, 337 Soil, 44 Southampton, Lord, 19, 21? Sowing seeds, 57 Sparkes, Major, 305 Spring Hill II., 297 Spurs, 39, 121, 282, 284 Stable matters, 105 Stabling, Price of, 109 Stallions, 297, 322, 337 Stand, Slick, 65 Standing over the ball, 26 Steel Dust, 315 Stick broken, 279 Stick, dropped, 279 ,, Hitting at adversary's, 268 ,, Reckless use of, 15 ,, stand, 65 Sticks, 23 Stiffening the muscles, 148 Stirrups, 95, 117 " Stoneclink," 3, 232 Stopping the game, 243 Stourton, Mr., 343, 345 Style, Good, 148 Suart, xMr. , 107, 300 Subalterns' Cup, Ranelagh, 350 Sundry breeds, 346 Sunshine, Texas pony, 315 Sunshine, English pony, 347 (fig. 8) Surge Beauty, 300 Sweetwater, 86, 327 Tandem, 140 Tea, 68 Tents, 69 Terry, 86, 98, 327 Tessie, 300 Texas cow-puncher, 275 ,, ponies, 312 The Rake, 88, 98, 301, 305, 308 The Syrian, 298 Thorn, Mr. W. K., 138, 312, 313 Three abreast, 138 Three Cheers, 337 Thrower-in, 249 Throwing a pony's quarters out, 265 Throwing in ball, 244, 255, 278, 282 Time-keeper, 252 Tom, 317 Topo, 335 Tramping, 53 Tree, Mr. A. M., 298 Tunis Barbs, 309 Turf, 42, 52 ,, slopes, 50 Turning the pony, 119, 127 ""'sler, Mr. H., 331 . »veedie. General, 301 Twitter, 86 Umpire, 239 Umpire's injunctions, Disregarding 282 Umpires, 3 Umpiring, 227 Usher, Mr. Robert, 310, 340 Vampire, 319 INDEX 357 Vaquero, 338 Vests, 64 Vice, 236 Vingut, Mr., 312 Waif, 319 Wallis, xMr., 232 Wallop, Hon. O. H., 318, 328 Walters, Mr., 317 Ward, Hon. R., fig. 8 Watering polo ground, 58 Watson, Mr. John, 2, 28, 82, 97, 98, 114, 143, 159, 192, 213, 224, 231, 245, 262, 264, 295 Whistle, Umpire's, 63, 229, 285 White Rose, 302 Whole circle swing, 152 Willie D., 317 Wimbledon Park, 20 Win game. To, 254 Wintering, 105 Wise, Captain F., 218 Wolfcatcher, 86, 331 Work done by polo ponies, no Wormald, Mr., fig. 13 Wrist strokes, 146 Wyoming, 318 Yankee, 82, 343 Yellowman, fig. 8 Zigzagging, 260, 264 Advevtisements. SPECIALITE: "SOFT LEG" HUNTING BOOTS. The **Soft Leg" Polo Boots are sufficiently stiff to protect the Legs. HIGHEST-CLASS HUNTING, SHOOTING, & WALKING BOOTS Speckil Terms for Hunt Servants' Boots when Three or more Pairs are ordered. ILLUSTRATED PRICE LISTS POST FREE. SPARKES, HALL & CO., LTD., BOOTMAKERS TO HER MAJESTY THE QUEEN, T.R.H. The Prince and Princess of IBTales and Royal Family. 308 = 310, REGENT ST., LONDON. Xabies' Ibuntino Boots (SEPARATE DEPARTMENT). Messrs. Sparkes, Hall & Co.'s representatives visit all the principal Hunt Districts for the purpose of taking Orders. Letters of Appointment to be sent to 308—310, REGENT STREET. Advertisements. J. SALTER, 28, HIGH STREET, ALDERSHOT. J. S. supplies all the principal Clubs and Players with Balls and Sticks. Hurlingham, Ranelag:h, Rugby, Stansted, Liverpool, Wirral, Eden Park, Paris, Malta, Buluwayo, all Regimental Clubs, Essex, Catterick, Barton, Burghley, Chislehurst, Ciren- cester, Tiverton, Fetcham Park, Holderness, Kingsbury, Middlewood, N. Wilts, N. Middlesex, Plymouth, Warwick, Wellington, Wembley Park, Worcester, &c., &c. J.Watson, Esq., E. D. Miller, Esq., G. A. Miller, Esq., W. J. Drybrough, Esq., T. B. Dr3^brough, Esq., W. S. Buckmaster, Esq., Major MacLaren, Capt. Pedder, F. H. Wise, Esq., G. K. Ansell, Esq., N. Haig, Esq., H. C. Higgin, Esq., F. Drage, Esq., Hon. R. Ward, C. E. Rose, Esq., Hon. D. Marjoribanks, Capt. E. Loder, Capt. G. Fitz-Gerald, Capt. Egerton Green, Earl of Harrington, Lord Southampton, &c. WHIPPY, STEGGALL & CO., jSaddle and ^Ziarness CDakers, 30, NORTH AUDLEY STREET, LONDON, W. ^ LL Polo Players are aware of the inconvenience caused by the liability of Saddle Trees to spread. Messrs. WHIPPY, STEGGALL & CO., have recently Patented a Gullet Plate, which reduces this liability to a minimum. It is made on scientific principles, and gives the greatest amount of strength with the least possible weight. It merits the attention of all Riders. Advertisements. Y I'LL who ride or drive should see J. CARTER'S Patent