^'■i . s. ,11. HOLDING < y M I JA k)-/ JAMES TILLETT & CO, 8, Falcon Street, Aldersgate Street, London, E.C. Tailors' Trimming Warehousemen. MANUFACTURERS OF THE FALCON MEASURE ORDER BOOK. INDEXED, PRINTED, NUMBERED, AND TRftDE MARK PERFORATED n^K. Day & Order Book Combined. PRICES For I, goo Garments S. '1 E. Five on page as sketch, 104 X 13 in 8 1. Four on Page, Sin x 13in. .. ..8 3. Three on Page, Spring Back, oblong fools- cap, 13in. by Bin. . . 10 F3 Do. Flush Binding.. 9 F. Five on Page, lUiin. x 13in. .. ..14 2. Four on page, foolscap. Sin. X 13 in. .. 15 PEICES For 2,000 Garments. 4 Five on page, spring back, dbl.ob. fcap., 16 X 13.. .. 2U F4 Ditto,FlusU Binding 16 5 Six on page, spring back, dbl. fcap. 13 xl6 19 F5 Ditto, Flush Binding 17 8 Five on page, spring back, dbl.ob. Fcap. IG X 13 .. .. 2C ^^LSO, E^^ECON stock: DXJPEICi^TE. S. For 1,000 Patterns luin. x 12in., 13s. | T. For 2,000 Patterns 12iin. x 19in., 21s. Falcon Patent SHOULDER EA.DS. 1. Oanvas cover'd, 5s. per doz. 2. Ditto, larger, 6s. 6d. per doz. 3. Ditto Crescent, 5s. per doz. Fl. Felted Wool, 6s. per doz. F2. Ditto, larger, 7s. per doz. P.3 DittoCrescent. 6s. per doz. All in boxes of half-dozen pairs. Postage Extra, half-dozen, 3d. 1 dozen i^d. Eclair Patent BUTTON MAKING MACHINE. Price, 21s. Including Dies Cutter, &c., for Vest, Coat, and Overcoat Buttons. MOULDSHELLS- For covering for Vest . . . . Is. a gross. „ Coat .. Is. 3d. „ „ Overcoat.. .. Is. 9d. „ PATENTEES OF THE FALCON CHAIN HANGERS. Tailors Shears, Scissors, and Trimmers, AMERICAN (HEINISCH & ENGLISH MAKERS. TUFTS UNIVERSITY LIBRARIES 3 9090 013 407 099 Webster Family Library of Veterinary Medicine Cummings School of Veterinary Medicine at Tufts University 200 Westboro Road North Grafton, MA 01536 TAILORS' TRIMMINCS,^^ 'X^r^OX^EIB.i^JIL.El & 'Si.lEl'r.AJJL, SILK & REAL MOHAIR BRAIDS, TRACINGS. CORDS, ETC SILK VELVETS. SATINS. SERGES. VELOUTIN SOIE DE DEUIL. OTTOMANS, 8ENGALINKS. and PEKOS. KBAKJ DBILLS, DRABETTES, JEANS ^ oX C8JCKETING AND TENNIS FLANNELS ]^t,\^ iXD FANCT WOOLLEN -^ ^^ COAT LININGS. ARMY ajid NAVT WOOt/LKN SERGES, ESTAMENES. AMD VELVETEENS ALPAOA TWILLS. SHALLOONS, ITALIAN CLOTHS. DOST COATINGS, RUSSELL CORDS, akd COLLEGE CLOTHS. Dyed. Brocaded and PrintBd EUSJAS, SATTEENS. AND LAWNS 8C0TCe. FRENCH 4 IRISH CANVASSES, LINENS, BUCKRAMS, AND POLDAVY AVY, CREST, HUNTING. FLEXIBLE, IVORY. PEARL. &. MONOGRAM BUTTONS. «' ^^^JOHN GOODMAN & CO., 30, Glasshouse Street, Golden Square, London. W. TELBORAPHIO . ADDRESS "POLDAVY. LONDON." By Appointment to Her Majesty's Government, 108 M, RECENT STREET, LONDON, W. PREFACE THIS little volume is the tenth original edition of cutting books from my pen and pencil. With new editions it counts thirteen, and with three works outside the trade, makes a total of sixteen volumes. Doubtless the busy years crowded with other work, outside mere book writing, have left their mark by causing many shortcomings in each volume, yet as the friendly disposition of the public has led them to purchase freely and ask for more, I have up to this period continued to use my time for their benefit and — my own. I take this opportunity of thanking them cordially. The present work, though not got up as a costly and expensive book, is an effort to condense into the briefest compass all the leading points in modern English Livery. A much bigger book at double the price, with more elaborate illustrations, might well have been issued, and the subject is well worthy of the effort ; but I consider its price must have curtailed its sale, and yet it could not have been more useful than, I trust, this little volume may prove to be. The artist has, on the whole, been successful in the outline illustrations, done from my sketches, which show at a glance style and detail. For the rest, I can only say, follow the principles which I have laid down in the early part of the book, and rest assured that the detailed in- structions given are sound and trustworthy. It only remains for me to add that the remarks on trying on, and making up the shoulders in livery coats, are based on the result of thirty years' work, and will, I am sure, mislead no one. T. H. HOLDING. 7, Maddox Street, July 1st, 1894. BRITISH LIVERIES. INTRODUCTION. LIVERIES have now become simple in comparison to what they were, say, at the beginning of the present century. In those days liveries were usually very light in colour, often elaborately laced or braided, whilst the men on the box and those who stood behind the carriage usually not only wore a powdered wig, but a costly aiguillette over his left breast and shoulder. Epaulettes, too, were pretty constantly worn. I can quite well remember thirty years ago, when I served as an operative on livery, making the drab Court dress coat to wait at dinner, cut- away fronts, vandyked flaps on the hips, notched holes on the breast, elaborate cuffs with notched holes and buttons, huge epaulettes on the shoulders, laced collar and flaps and edges, scarlet plush breeches, bright yellow vest, duly laced— truly a magnificent dress in those stately halls where they were worn. Even out of doors, within comparatively a few years, showy livery was the order of the day ; take drabs with blue or yellow collars, the laced hole on the collar of livery frock, laced bands round the hat. All these things are now on the wane. The mark of gentility is now to have livery dark in colour, unobtrusive in style, quietly made, without, indeed, much ornamentation or relief other than that afforded by metal buttons, or a tiny bit of vest that shows above, below, or through the openings in the coat. The drab gaiters of old-fashioned shape and cut have also gone, and leather boots with brown tops have taken the place, to be worn over white breeches, and the footman wears dark trousers in place of breeches and gaiters. So much, then, for what was and what is. Now let us descend to plain particulars of what we have to do. I should like, in the first place, to clearly state some of the leading changes that are necessary in the cutting of livery, as against ordinary work. That is to say, there should be a difference in style, and I wish to indicate in detail what these differences in style are. If the first principles —and they are principles, and not the author's fads, which embody the usage of the most advanced tailors in the older trades of the West End of London that I am about to set forth ; if tliese, I say, are mastered, anyone can take a livery order in hand, and execute it without getting very much wrong. High-pitched shoulders look well on gentlemen, but the old- fashioned style of coat should be retained in livery, to give a sloping shoulder seam, and the back pitch should not be much above an inch or an inch and a quarter in depth. The side seam should run as though the coat had been cut forty years ago by the Old Thirds, that is, without much curve, straight and plain. The hip buttons should be about 4 inches apart in a groom's frock, 3^ in a footman's coatee. The following hints may be profitable. GENERAL REGULATIONS. APHORISMS For the Livery Tailor. Do not cut a high shoulder pitch. Let the back pitch be very shallow, say ij inches. Side seam to have little curve. Upper part extra straight. Cut the waist longer than for a gentleman. The hip buttons a little wider than for a dress or frock coat. Never let the skirts of livery garments be too skimped. Above all things avoid cutting wide, baggy sleeves. Remember that in livery the old-fashioned style is to prevail. Outdoor servants like their collars openings very low. Indoor servants like them higher. . Stable men do not mind a little pressure on the chest if neck and other parts of fit is natty. Palm oil smoothes out creases in most garments. Seeing that agreement with a man servant is cheap, and leads to satisfaction, agree when possible. The man who wears, not he who pays for, the clothes is master really. Don't treat a man servant according to his station and education, pays better to take him at his own vahiation. REGULATIONS. The following suggestions or measurements are intended to guide the student in working out an order for livery. The top button of a groom's frock should not exceed, for an average man, 1 1 inches from the back of the neck, and the waistcoat should be made to lo. The stand of the vest should be one quarter of an inch higher than made in an ordinary vest ; the reason being that the scarlet or other colour of the waistcoat should show about a quarter-inch all round above the coat. The length of the waist should be a good half-inch lower than the ordinary private coat. A coachman's frock coat should be not less than 36 in length, and a coatee should be 33^ to 34 in length, and that for a taller man than the coachman. I give as the proportions for an outdoor servant 5 feet 7^ inches, and the indoor servant 5 feet gj inches. Of course they run to over 6 feet, but coachmen are rarely, if ever, tall. The length of a groom's frock should be about 33. The rule for the coachman's box coat is that the length shall be half-way down the leather top of the boot. The footman's coat should come 7 inches from the ground. Take the total length from the nape of the neck to the ground and deduct 7 inches. In vests there are few things to note in livery. The coach- man's waistcoat is cut 2 inches longer than the ordinary one. Thus, if he takes 26 for an ordinary vest, his Jivery should be 28. The points of the livery waistcoat should be rounded, and the buttons should stand about 2f from the bottom, and the stripe of the coachman's vest should run straight down from the top to the bottom, and that of the footman should run across from the back to the front. The opening for a footman's vest should be eighteen inches and not curved, and its total length will run to about 26. Outdoor livery vests are often fitted with sleeves and often not. It is best to cater to the wants of the individual servant, subject as to charges to his master of course. The trousers for indoor servants are usually made to about ig knee and 18^ bottom, that is to say, straight cut. If the coat is edged with scarlet there should be a rib down the side of the trousers to correspond, set in narrow, if made of cloth. GENERAL HINTS. Outside breast pockets must be eliminated from livery in all gar- ments. Ticket pockets are admitted, but in overcoats it should be set high above the seam in the forepart, so that it can be got at when the apron is strapped round the body. Box coats have usually stitched-over seams, but those who make the footman's the same way make a mistake. They should not be so stitched, but should be plain. The coachman's frocks have side edges, with buttons on the hips, and a button set in each pleat one inch from the bottom, showing half of it only. The cuffs of all ordinary livery should be 2f inches from the bottom of the hand, one hole above and one below cuff seam. In all cases five holes and buttons at equal distances apart go up the coatee. The groom's frock should have five, the coachman's six, buttons. There is no set rule for this, but it is the rule of the trade. The box coats, out and indoor alike, have six buttons at the front, and six at the back, one on the hip tack, one in centre of side edge, which should be vandyked, and made 11^ in all cases, with one button at the bottom likewise. It is a rule to line the skirts of livery coats with a colour that matches the coat, unless there is a scarlet or fancy colour used in collar, cuffs, or edges ; then the lining may match this. Box coats are in all cases lined with thick wool in the body, and thinner wool or shalloon in the skirts. A tab is added half- way down to keep the skirt from opening off the legs when driver is seated. Some few put buttons to the hands of a footman's box coat, but, as a rule, they are made plain. The best finish for a coachman's coat is to have rows of sewing round the hand, half an inch apart. The button of a double-breasted box coat must show below the collar, and must not be covered as they formerly were. Speaking of a coachman's coat, it is necessary to point out how extremely low the collar should be made. The edges of all livery should be stitched and done in a neat way ; edges of box coats double stitched raw ; refine livery frock or coatee either stitched raw or brufFed, or stitched on the edge by hand or the machine, as the case may be, save when edged. Elsewhere mention is made of the fitting of the shoulder of a livery coat, and I dwell on the importance of having a close collar round neck. It will be well in all cases, for outdoor servants especially, to have a little wadding in the hollow of the shoulder. They are usually short, thick set men, with powerful bones and muscles, and the hollow itself should be stiffened by thin horsehair as well as wadding. x\l30 have the shoulder shrunk and stretched out to fit hollow usually found in these men, and made to fit cleanly otherwise. BREECHES. Breeches are now in most cases white, and have a raised side seam down the hip. These are not cut in the least baggy, but are made to fit the leg like the skin. Two or three buttons show above the boot, and instead of buttons being brought very prominently down the front, as gentlemen wear hunting breeches, they should go fairly forward, but not on the shin bone. As to whether they are pants or breeches remains to be settled with the coachman or his employer who pays for them. Most coachmen prefer breeches to pants. I frequently have cut them as pants, and, of course, have been paid for making them so, and have occasionally found them come back with the " pants " cut off, the men asking to have the bottoms bound. Making livery demands two things especially, viz., that you please the man and please his governor. It is not always possible to do both, but my own experience is, please the man and the governor is generally satisfied. Hence I make it my rule to consult the wants of the men to the utmost, and to do all I can in reason to meet their wishes. In measuring for breeches you lay the foundation of getting a proper fit. It matters less the system you use for breeches — though, of course, there is a good deal in that — than it does on getting accurate measures. I append below a table of measures that ought to be taken for breeches, and if the instructions given are studied, I will guarantee that you shall produce a good fit. I do not try breeches on as a rule, no matter how particular they are, unless a customer asks for it. Indeed, there is little or no necessity for trying breeches on. Like boots they must be cut to the right shape and the right measure, and this, I contend, can be as well accomplished without as with trying on speaking broadly. Need I add that they must lie to the thigh like tights. BREECHES CUTTING. Before proceeding to describe systems, another matter calls for very careful attention —namely, that pertaining to measuring. I can boldly say that no man can cut breeches properly unless he knows how to measure for them, nor can any cutter produce breeches without measures of a practical character. Yet it is a thing I have to attempt almost every day in my life, but I do it with great reluctance. Few of those who send to me for special breeches patterns send correct measures. It is a common thing indeed not to have more than the seat or waist, and the man's height; and many before now have been ordered with just the waist measure, or the total length of the leg seam for trousers. To a man who is alive to the difficulties of breeches cutting, this may seem incredible, yet in several cases I receive some such orders as the following : " Send me a breeches pattern for a man five feet ten inches ; length to knee, twelve ; total length, eighteen and a half." In such a case, I know that if a man is five feet ten inches, and of average proportions in other parts of his person, he would be at least fifteen to the knee, eighteen Lo the hollow, and not less than twenty-one to the calf. In certain cases I have taken the liberty to alter these measures, and have been, in return, blamed for not sending patterns to measure. Let me recommend that the student practise the theory of measurement in accordance with the rules I give, and when he can measure properly, let him proceed to draft, and cut in accordance with the system here laid down. The following table,* well worked out, will give more information than a whole page of description. Underneath the knee-cap, but slightly to the right of it, will be found a little hole, which the elder Hammond is credited with saying, "The Almighty made for the top button of a pair of breeches." That is the spot meant by " top knee." In reality, mark this as the tack. The remaining five inches are the slit or opening for four or five buttons. The chief measures, however, are the leg. These should be taken as follows : first put the point of the tape well up in the fork and measure down to the thickest part of the knee-joint inside leg. This we call 15 inches. Continue to the hollow or garter, 18, then to the thickest part of the calf, 21. These measures are of the utmost importance, because the length from the fork to the hollow governs everything as to comfort, accuracy of fit, etc. Take the widths round bare leg thus : measure over the drawers or stockings quite close, almost tight round the knee, hollow, and the calf. * Proportioned Measures for Various Sizes. U-; Widths. Pants. .G c -M Breeches or Pants. 0) C C X Cfi ■*-' > S a, ^ ^ c +j D 7-; t-w .*-< H fa ^ 0) C/) Measures : Average Size . . 26 32 15 18 20A 26 31 36 Mi 12^ Hh 9 Large Size . . 28 33 13 16 19 24 45 46 16 14 16 II LIVERY TARRIFF. Below is appended a list of prices charged by various firms- The list could be extended ad lib. There are some higher and some lower, but I think sufficient are given to form a basis of London prices, for they are all Metropolitan firms thus quoted. For instance, there is one firm which charges £6 6s. for a box coat, ^4 for its coatee, and so on ; while there is another that makes a livery coatee, vest, and trousers for £j\. ios., and the same firm makes a coachman's frock coat, vest, and breeches (white) for £^ 5s. and takes off 5% for cash. PRICE OF FIRM IN PICCADILLY, W. Coachman's single-breasted Frock Coat ,, Coatee Coachman's Vest Footman's Vest . . Drab Breeches . . White Breeches for Coachman Box Coats Cash discount, 10% 3 s. d. 10 3 15 . . I . . ig . . I 18 . . 2 15 5 15 ' 14 14 6 12 2 3 1 8 14 4 2 14 I 5 2 2 4 5 PRICES OF LIVERIES.— C. STONE'S. Coachman's or Groom's Frock Coat (plain) Cloth Vest (plain) ,, ,, Striped Valentia Vest (plain) ,, Sleeves to Vest, extra ,, ,, Drab Kerseymere Breeches ,, ,, ,, ,, Gaiters ,, ,, Box Coat (any colour) Footman's Livery Coat (plain) ,, Cloth or Doe Trousers (plain). . ,, ,, Black or Coloured Plush Breeches ,, Box Cloth Great Coat (plain) .. PRICES OF A MADDOX STREET FIRM. Coachman's Frock Coat, West of England Refine Cloth .. .. 330 Striped Valentia Vest, with Sleeves. . .. .. . . o 18 o Coachman's Breeches, drab West Cursey .. .. .. .. . . i 15 o White Imitation Buckskin, best West make ,. .. 2 10 o Coachman's Kersey Gaiters .. .. .. .. .. .. . . o 17 o ,, Stable Suit, ai quality, indestructible West of England Tweed .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. ..400 Scotch Tweed Stable Suit, durable and neat, 65s. West of England Box Coats, lined with woollen, very smartly cut, 5 gs., accord- ing to size, colour, and quality of material. Footman's B. D. Coatee, superfine cloth .. .. .. ., . . 3 10 o Best Doeskin Trousers .. .. .. .. .. . . i 10 o Vests .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . o 16 6 9 COACHMAN'S FROCK. FROCK COAT.— DiA. i. Plate I. To Draw Points of the Back. Lay down the square, starting at top, O. Draw right angle and left angle, as OO and OH. Make B one-quarter of breast measure. C, one-half the breast measure. D, the natural hollow of the waist, say lyf. E, to the length taken for fashionable waist, say 19 J. Mark F one-sixth from O. J is one-third. K, one sixth from J. Draw straight line from F to K to form shoulder. Measure width of back stretch from B to L, say yf . Run back scye to taste, but carr}^ upper part out very slightly. Mark from D to W, about 2 inches. A wide back needs a narrower sidebody, and 2 inches gives a good width for the back of a frock coat as now worn. Slightly hollow the back seam. Put a few dots from LM to VV, and after seeing if they give the shape needed, draw side seam. L in livery should be placed i[ only below BK line, THE FOREPART. Make G two-thirds from O. H is one-sixth from G. Mark Z one-eighth down for S. B. frock. Place side body seam NY to taste. The best way is to draw a straight line down, then shape side- body seam. Draw straight line on B to H for forepart shoulder, Mark P one-half the breast measure, i.e., 18 inches nett. R is 3^ inches in addition for breast allowance. Deduct at X, X, i^ for average figure. Measure width of back D to W, less seams. Place on at I, less seams, the same amount. Continue to side body edge less seams. Place this on forepart, deducting seam. Continue to S, and allow i:^-inch more than waist measure. Next, with the square, put on an imaginar)/ crease row, H.R, This gives a proper base, and shows the amount of allowance for the turn. Having cut the back, measure width of shoulder, and run shoulder scye and gorge through L and N by aid of back. Measure length of side seam from top by placing it tivo seams over on the side piece to find bottom of side body length. See that all is cleanly drawn into these divisions. 1 o find the front, draw D line to S, and draw waist seam I inch below. \ \ \ 1 Plate I, B II THE SLEEVE.— DiA. 2, Plate I. Draw straiglit line, 00. Mark from O to A, half the breast. Put ''■ I inch in from line at OA. This is base for sweep for OD. Mark E i^ inch up from sweep. Mark from O to D ^-inch more than half scye measure. N.B. — In finding size of scye on draft, measure one seam in from the edge, i.e., where sleeve would be seamed. This would give, say 17I inches. Half of this and ^-inch gives g^ inches, O to D. Mark F half of breast in from O. Make top O, pivot, and sweep for CF, C being exact length, say 32 inches. Measure back from F to C, width of hand, say 6^. Now draw sleeve-head from O through E to D. Hollow from i inch at G. Hind arm OAB to C. FROCK COAT SKIRT.— Dia. 4, Plate I. Lay down the square. Mark out O to A, and down to D. Mark E out 2^ at 15 down. Square down A to B at width ot waist as found by forepart, and go out to C 2 inches at the same distance down. Mark F i-inch longer than C and E. Slightly round the curve of waist above G. Mark flap to position and pocket underneath same at G. Slightly round it, but pleat out H, and see the workman presses it back well. 12 SLEEVE SYSTEM FOR VEST.-Dia. 3, Plate I. Start by drawing construction line 00. Mark A as the start- ing point. B is one-quarter down. Square out from B to C. Measure on B to C i inch more than half scye measure. This gives a great deal of fulness. But of two evils we must choose the lesser. A vest having a sleeve without sufficient fulness will always be a trouble. A vest with a good deal of fulness gathered in the sleeve-liead will give no one trouble save the maker. D is one-eighth up from the angle line AC. Let the under- side be formed by G not more than i^ below the top-side. A hollow under-side sleeve would be fatal. Measure out from hind arm line, O, O, to E half, BM, and ^-inch. Measure from F to forearm seam the total width that it is intended to make it, say 7 inches. Next measure back from E to button, 4^ inches, which is the average width. Now mike bottom of hand to " run " evenly at about a squajre, or shall 1 say a nice " run," with the fore and hind arm seams. Run the hind arm seam from A, B, F, to hand. 13 COATEE. LIVERY COATEE.— DiA. 5, Plate II. For working out the Draft, apply all points set out in the S.B. frock (Plate I.) The side seam, LW, is rather straight, as in the groom's frock. The back pitch, KL, is also shallow. The shoulder seam is low and old-fashioned, and the forepart shoulder is raised to correspond. The front, R, is 3 inches over the breast measure. The waist, instead of being ^-inch less than waist measure, as would be tiie case with a dress coat, is ^-inch ovey the measure. Sweep from star to star to find depth of front waist, each star being half-way between respective points. Better, however, take an actual measure as for a vest. Y is about 3 inches above the sweep (see frock). This won't do for every coat. It is dependent on the amount of spring added on for the shape of the hip, and this has to rely upon a flat or full hip. Otherwise follow the instructions, so far as all working points are concerned, on Plate I. for the coachman's coat. It is well to put in the crease row (see diagram) as a guide for the width of the turn on break. The way to find S is by laying back, sidebody, and forepart together and deducting for seams, measuring out to the front, and allowing about -l-inch over actual measure. COATEE SKIRT.-DiA. 6, Plate II. The way to draft a coatee skirt is as follows : - Lay down the square and draw line, and following both arms across and down OE, measure out size of waist, side piece and forepart, allowing |-inch for fullness. Drop B i inch below O. Make F 2^ inches from E. One-third from D to E is not a bad proportion — a little more or less does not matter — for the width of bottom. THE SLASH.— See Dia. 6, Plate II. The slash is a piece of cloth seamed on, pressed open, and is stitched raw behind. It is 11 inches in depth. The broadest parts are 3 inches, and the narrowest 2 inches. Three buttons are set in the centre opposite each point (see sketch). THE LAPEL.— Dia. 7, Plate II. There are two sorts of lapels put on these coats, but the oldest and best livery houses stick to the old style— and I com- mend them for it— which is a lapel with five holes and buttons. Plate II. 15 all marked equally. Formerly they turned two and showed three below ; latterly they turn three and show two below. A steel oblong ring, run through two crest buttons, and holds tlie two middle holes together when the coat is in wear. Two and a quarter inches will do for the top peak. Three inches will do for the broadest part of the middle. Lower part tapering to taste, or say i^. VEST SYSTEM. -DiA. 8, Plate II. It is worked, to begin ^v'lth, fyoiii the back to the front . Thus, draw a straight line OO. Mark B one-twelfth from O, and F half the breast from B. Measure from B to D full half the breast, say 18 inches. Use D as a pivot, and sv/eep O to Y. Mark out from O to H one-fourth, H to I one-eighth, I to J one-sixteenth. Put the tip of the tape on D, and measure half the waist forward to L, say 7f mches. Draw a straight line from J through L to bottom. Mark the centre half-way between H and 1 (see *). This becomes neck point. From this ■•'■ draw a straight line to B, and slightly curve oft the point below B. Mark E one-eighth from line 00. G is one-twelfth out from F. Run shoulder, scye, side seam, and gorge to style. Measure out at P if inches from line JL. This will give straight line PM, from which front edge may be drawn as shown. Measure total length of vest to M, allowing for width of back top beyond *. Square across from OO line to M, and make N one-sixth up from line thus drawn. TO FORM BACK.— See Dia. 8, Plate II. Having cut your forepart, draw a straight line, and lay the forepart AM line on it. Dot the line across from neck point '•• to A line, and make A I inch up. Make R i-| inches above the sweep and one-sixth in width from A. S is a sixth down from O. T is out to half the breast measure 18 inches, but it is found as follows : —Measure carefully from K to G less one seam, say 9 inches. Put that amount on again at K, and go out to T, and add -^-inch beyond half breast measure. Repeat this exactly for waist at LD, only here allow the side seam to be i inch over half waist measure, to allow for buckling in and letting out. SLEEVE VEST. The same system identically produces this. The only changes necessary are to cut the shoulder three-quarters broader, and to carry the front as the vest is long straight down, and add a large rounded bottom corner for the stable waistcoat. i6 NOTES. ^7 LIVERY BREECHES. BREECHES SYSTEM.— Dia. 9, Plate III. The Top Side. Commence by drawing line 00. Square out from O to I. Measure A to T length of side, say 32 inches. Square from B to D, and slightly drop the square at D. The leg measure I have just given is 15, 18, 21. Put this 21 on at D, and measure up to M 21. Mark the knee, F, 15 from fork, and G 18. DO. Put in these two lines also, F and G, and fork line, KE, at a square with the side. The square must be dropped at M. F, and G slightly. Make H one-third from A, and I one-quarter of waist less three-quarters of an inch from H: Make J one-third from O less half an inch. K is one-sixth from J, E is one-sixth from K, and M three-quarters of an inch beyond E for all sizes. Mark a * at R, S, T, i inch in from construction line. From this mark measure half knee, F, y^, half hollow to G, 6i, from T to D, half calf, 7J. Draw a straight line from half way between M and E to F for leg seam. Now proceed to shape the fork and leg seam. Draw the top in to half waist below A, then out to the line at the hip slightly inside the line lower down, half an inch inside ^= at R to, say, ij inches in at the bottom, T. Round top side as indicated, lower the top at waist iinch, and the top side is complete. THE UNDER SIDE. To find seat angle, mark N one-third up from K, make P hall seat up from ditto, and mark Q as "centre," or half way between these points. This fixes seat angle. Make W i inch, as indicated, beyond M. Slightly spring seat at Z, and run seat and leg seam complete as shown. Find knee measure top side at F, less seams, put that quan- tity on at F, and measure out to U, half knee, and make it easy. Measure top side at G (end of hole) in the same manner as above, and measure out to V, marking it close to measure. Repeat same at D, and make B ^-inch less than calf measure. 19 This deduction is made to allow for the under side being stretched thoroughly. Measure the top P top side, and put the quantity on in the hollow behind, and mark out to Y, half waist, and allow what is required for a " V " if needed. Sweep from E and Y for the top of under side. Allow 2 inches over half seat measure at X Now complete by careful lines and curves all parts of the under side. Hollow under side at 5, and see that it be well stretched. TROUSERS.— DiA. 10, Plate III. This is a really good system. In a wide experience with servants, I have discovered that they always want a fit, and they must have room. Without going into wearisome detail, I have never encountered a failure with it. Go, try it. THE DRAFT. Draw side line, OO. AB is side length. C square with OO, but slightly lower the nether arm at C. E is leg length from C. K is one-third seat from O. F, ^-inch less than half seat. Draw FKD. G, one -sixth back from F. H, one-sixth from 00. I, one-twelfth from H, and J is the centre. Draw line for knee centre, J, G. E, one-sixth from F. C, l^inch less than one-fourth of bottom, centre, J. Now draw top side, marking E, M, C, and W equal from GJ line, half knee on each side. UNDER SIDE. Mark R one-third, and S half seat from F. Mark centre half way between these. Draw seat angle through centre from half way between E and P, which is half seat. Half bottom is on leg seam side of J, and remainder out beyond B. At T, allow for a " V." At D, lower ^-inch. Uj i^ inches full over seat measure and seams* 20 COACHMAN'S GAITERS.— Dia. ii, Plate III. How To Draft. Draw the straight hne AB square out from A to C, then B to D at full length, 15 inches. Measure from A to E, half the calf and seams 7^ inches, add on to C 2^ inches, and the same from F to D. This part is added on for this purpose — that when it lies over on the side of the calf, the buttons, instead of being down the front, as they would be if the gaiter were cut to E and F, go down the side. G is the top of tongue 5 inches up from F, whilst H is, say, three seams more. In order to allow for the taking up and the bit of fulness indicated, it is necessary to cut the tongue a little long. This ful- ness is important, as it helps to clear the inner side of the gaiter when on. In fact, for my part, I always stretch it below G, and then add a little fulness in the tongue besides. J is 3^ inches up from F ; K, ij inches up above D. Run of tongue from G through J to K in the manner indicated, but it must be exactly the same shape as I have drawn this ; wherever the tongue line touches K (i^ inches up), that determines the front point of the tongue. Now put the measure on here at K, less the seam, and measure back to L, half the total width to the foot, which we will suppose to be 9^ inches. L may come inside B, or may run out nearly to it ; it depends whether the man has a small calf and a large foot, or vice versa. Now draw the calf seam ^-incli in from A at top, and run out for calf, and come in at L to the measure given. Slightly hollow the top from C to A, and reduce top side ^-inch at C, and make all other matters, as to styles, precisely the same as the lines and styles indicated. UNDER SIDE. This is found, as to the upper part by measure, as to the bottom part by the tongue. Thus, where the strap and buttons are shown, that finds the under side at bottom. The top may be found in the following manner : Measure from A to C, less seams ; place that qviantity on at A, and measure out to M, which, we will say, is 15I inches; then opposite centre button, i.e. calf, perform exactly the same little ceremony, and run the line for buttons to stand un right through from M near H to N. -21 BOX COAT. COACHMAN'S BOX COAT.— Plate IV. Care must be taken both in cutting and fitting these coats that the back balance is fuU short enough. They so often go four between the tops, side and shoulder seams, and the backs look like a pair of blow bellows ; it arises through the back being too long and the shoulder balance being too short, and also through being chopped too dead or tight on the hip bone. This system will in a great measure obviate these difficulties. The rest must be judiciously avoided by prudent and careful trying on. Note. — Servants— and their masters — have strong preference for close fits, where a gentleman would tolerate a wee bit of fulness ; here it must not exist. Use divisions 2 inches larger than nett breast taken on vest. Actual measure on Vest 32 34 36 38 40 21 42 44 Size of draft by 17 iS 19 20 2li 22^ It will be seen in the latter there is very little increase. An obvious reason of this has been explained elsewhere — that the larger the circumference, if that circumference is simply an increase of fat, the smaller the scale by which to work. POINTS UNCHANGED. A, B, and C are as in the ordinary system, but by the larger scale. A is three-quarters down from O, F, G, H line, J, K, and P are as in the ordinary system. Mark R 4 inches over nett BM, and S 2 inches over nett \VM. Z is one-sixth down. Let points at Y meet, and take i^ inches out at V, U. I is a twelfth over a third BM, from V, or may be made i-inch less than half W from line U. Depth of front waist S either to actual measure on, f-inch longer than length of style waist. E should be 2 J in. at least below the natural hollow of the waist. W should be about one-eighth and seams in width. This, however, is a matter of taste. Z, though it may be drawn one-sixth down, may be more or less, according to figure. I find it difficult to determine without fitting on. The shoulder, HB line, is considerably higher than in ordinary coat, as indicated. Draw H ;^-inch above line. Find the front by sweeping * to * on, as above stated (see S). THE LAPEL. The lapel of a box overcoat is an important matter. The style must be very carefully designed. A narrow lapel on such a coat is fatal. A too broad lapel is not nice. Again, the proportion of the lapel depends on the width of the figure, whether very broad or very narrow, whether very tall or very short. Taste is a great matter ; in fact, the use or lack of taste in the production of such a garment would make or mar it. Suggested proportions : —Top end, 3 inches; middle, 34 inches; bottom, 2^ inches to 3 inches. BOX COAT SKIRT.— DiA. 13, Plate IV. Square O, B, E and C. Fit 42 from E at 22 down, | round at G. Add slight curve on at PI. Continue D out 3 in. Find width of waist as follows : — Side body at O Z laid on against skirt, then leave ^ in. of fulness and measure out to B. Plate IV. 23 POSTILLION'S JACKET. Plate V. Draw all proportions of the diagram from the footman's mstructions, but curve the side seam Hke a military coat, and straighten neck out i-inch more than the system at H. Allow about 3 from P to the edge at the front, i.e., lapel seam, and let the lapels run narrow at the bottom and very broad on the chest. Much depends on this for style. The belt should not be quite straight, at least, it may be cut straight, and should be shaped by the iron with a slight curve up over the hip, and a very slight curve down at the back. MILITARY SLEEVE. The postillion's sleeve has to be pitched at the side seam as shown m this diagram. The sleeve must then be cut in a special way, as the ordinary sleeve will not answer. Therefore observe the instructions given below. Draw line 00. From O to A, one-sixth of breast measure. From A to B, one-quarter. From B to C, one-quarter. From B to D, one-sixth. From D to E, one-sixth. Draw line from E through O— F is one-third from E. From D to G is one-sixth. Line CH parallel to hne OO. UNDRESS MORNING SKIRT. This is only put to show the outhne of skirt of footman's morning dress-coat. So far as the skirt is concerned, it is a coatee skirt without slashes or buttons. Thus, instead of troubhng here to work out the detailed instructions, take the particulars from the coatee skirt, and apply them to this. These semi-coatees are worn regularly for breakfast and lunch waiting and door-answerimg during the early part of the day. COACHMAN'S CAPE. A coachman's cape is produced in the manner suggested A back and forepart are laid together. A, B, along the shoulder seam. This finds all foundation, and the length we will say is 19 from the back of the neck to C. Then from A to E it should be 20, and from the back of the neck O to D should be 5 inches longer than the back length. All the rest is simple drawing to these lines. Plate V. 25 OUT-DOOR LIVERY. COACHMAN'S FROCK. Figure i. —This is a coachman's S.B. frock, showing details as to style. Our artist has hit on good proportions for length, details and figure. The breeches, as may be seen, are cut close to the leg. The boots have brown tops, and half way down top is the standard length for the great coat. The vest does not show as it ought to have done just above the coat collar (see Fig. 4). The coachman's frock should reach to below the middle of the thigh. The cuff buttons should be divided by a little more space between the cuff line. The edges may be piped with any coloured cloth, or with coloured edging which can be bought for the purpose ; but cloth gives a better sitting edge, turn and collar, because of its greater pliability. The top button should be about II inches from the back of the neck. Sometimes hvery cutters leave a button stand on the right edge projecting a Httle under- neath the holes after the manner of a vest stand on the right forepart. In light-coloured cloths, care should be taken to sew the button on a piece of cloth, which should be cut neatly round the shank, otherwise it leaves a black mark which is not easily erased, and which practically prevents the moving of a button. Good hvery tailors do not machine the edges of livery refine coats, but either bruff or stitch them by hand. The ends of lapel and collar, in any case, I make it a rule to do raw, whilst the edges of vest I generally have pricked by hand. The side edge in a coachman's coat is a straight strip of cloth, either creased and put in double, or is a single piece of cloth hemmed down the outer edge. The buttons are inserted in the bottom of the pleat, and in the centre sometimes, through this side edge and plugged behind, the' plug being covered with cloth. Half the buttons only to show outside the pleat. The difficulty of making the shoulders of livery coats fit clean arises from three causes. The cloth itself is not given to much elasticity, and if not carefully worked up at the side of the neck and at the front of the arm, and shrunk a little hollow, there is a tendency to crease. Not only that, in fitting livery in the hollow of the shoulder, the back and forepart of shoulder seam should be well cleared out, so as to make it grip well in the hollow. In ninety-five cases out of one hundred it wiU be found that these men take far straighter shoulders than gentlemen, and that the shoulder bones are bigger far, as well as squarer and more highly set up, and yet on a clean shoulder depends everything in the style of the livery. Of course it must have a close neck. 27 BACK DETAILS OF FIGURE 1. Figure 2. — This shows the back view of the ordinary frock, the position and buttons of the waist, &c., being in very appro- priate form. It is the back of frock represented on Fig. i. The waist is a Httle longer, and the buttons a trifle wider apart than they would be cut for an ordinary private garment. Of course, being a coach- man, he would have cross flaps and pockets, whilst the groom would have pleat pockets. For the rest, see description. Fig. i. 29 COACHMAN'S BOX COAT. Figure 3. — This figure is clad in a very well designed D.B. box coat. The lapel is sewn on, and should not be double stitched down the front, whatever the other seams are. The facings should have no seams down the centre for thinness' sake. The length to be 3 inches shorter than coachman's, say 33 ; for many 5 and 6 inches. This coat is as near accuracy in detail as it is possible to get a drawing. It anything it might be an inch or an inch and a quarter longer than the figure, but, at any rate, half the leather should show at the top of the boot. The edges are marked double stitched ; the seams may or may not be. Both taste, custom, and price have to regulate that. It will be noted also that the top buttons of the lapels show. In order to accomplish this result the ends of the lapel are sloped somewhat down. The upper part of the body should be lined with good warm woollen material, and the skirts either with thinner tweed or shalloon. A tab goes towards the bottom of the skirt to keep the thing together at the knees in cold weather. 31 COACHMAN'S STABLE SUIT. Figure 4. — Coachman's stable suit. The coachman usually wears a morning coat, with cross flaps and pockets, buttons behind. The trousers are made close to the leg and full long, for he rides, exercising, in them. For this purpose I have before to day strapped them on the inside of the leg. The strapping should be felled on raw, stitched oft by hand— no machine work, of course, in this matter. Coachmen still stick to the skirted coat instead of the lounge, and there is no doubt the style suits their age, and looks more dignified for the position which the coachman holds ; but while these ideas are mere sentiment, the general liking of the governors themselves is that their coachman shall wear morning coats rather than the lounge. ^ J^ Fig. 4. — Coachman's Stable Soit. sr ■^ 33 GROOM'S STABLE SUIT. Figure 5. — Groom's stable suit. This is a lounge coat shape, with four buttons, buttoning close up to the neck, and is made 28 inches long. The waistcoat opens to about loi, and is cut to 28. The trousers should be 16 knee and 16 bottom. The materials in which they are made are usually drab or grey tweeds, of close texture and durable quality. In making outdoor livery, outside breast pockets are not to be inserted. The best edge, in my opinion, for a livery stable coat (because it wears well and does not look so pretentious as the double stitch- ing), is the old-fashioned country swelling, done, of course, neatly. Collars of livery must be lighter than tlie average. This adds materially to the smartness of a coat. 35 INDOOR LIVERY. FOOTMAN'S COATEE, &c. Figure 6. — This is a coatee al:)Out which very little need be said. The vest opens to i8, and the stripes run across. The trousers should be straight and plain, say ig by i8. The suggestions I should like to make regarding Fig. 5 are as follows : The coat has got to fit, and yet must not be big. Under the bright electric light, or in the glare of the sunlight on the box, or standing on the pavement amid a crowd of spectators, renders Mr. Footman an object of observation. Usually he is a tall, smart, active man, and it pays to take great pains in the fitting of his coat. Yet, in addition to it care must be exercised in having sufficient ease, so as to enable him to reach over the heads and shoulders of guests whilst waiting at table. I once made a livery coat, and the waistcoat had to show below the strap of the dress coat, an even three-quarters. In the same livery the roll of the coat and the roll of the waistcoat had to be precisely alike, and the button of each had to be marked together. There is little fear of this being asked for every day. The trousers for a footman should be cut with considerable seat angle. The material of which these trousers are made, viz., doeskin, is very liable to break. I have seen in my time dozen and dozens of pairs break right across beneath the crutch. For that reason there must be plenty of fork, and it is best to add as much seat angle as though for riding. The action of the heat of the body and the sweat seems to rot the wool, and they are liable to break, as indicated. A narrow cuff, with a hole above and one below, finishes the hand. A somewhat plain lapel with- out much point, five holes and buttons put regular, and a loop ring to two crest buttons in the centre, settles the front. The total length should be about 34. 37 BACK VIEW OF COATEE. Figure 7.— Back view. The object of this is to show the general style, position of slashes, buttons, &c. This gives at a glance a pretty fair idea of a coatee of the period. The slashes are usually seamed, pressed open, and turned over, then stitched by hand on the back edge or vandy'ked side. It is sometimes difficult to keep these coats in at the hollow of the back, seeing that the weight of the metal buttons behind — there being twelve of them -have a tendency to pull the coat away. Yet if the coat is cut with two short a shoulder, a foul side seam is sure to ensue, and that is a thing no one desires. The lines in edge on Fig. 5, and down the trousers on Fig. 6, both show an edging or piping. 39 FULL DRESS LIVERY. > Figure 8. — Full dress livery. This is the same as the old- fashioned Court dress, and is open to any amount of elaboration in the shape of laces. Royal and State liveries are cut on this principle, except some change, perhaps in the colour. The holes are notched, or rather, they are formeJ by an imitation of the real notched holes, being formed by an edging of a colour to match the coat. The time in putting in a double-notched hole would take about as much as is now given to the making of a tweed lounge coat. This full dress need not occupy a great deal of our attention. Coats similar in design, and with different coloured braiding, are still made for some of our ducal houses. I have seen them in light blue, with embossed lace edgings ; in light drab, purple, amber, magenta, and even scarlet ; but, as I have pointed out, there are not a great many now in use. The breeches, of course, are generally made of plush, the under sides of which are cut the opposite way of the wool. Otherwise it would be impossible for the servant to sit on the box, as with the jolting of the vehicle and the powerful pull, he would be forced off forward. This suggests the difficulty of sewing plush breeches - the seams, I mean. The two piles running in opposite directions, even in mere superfine, would render a smooth seam next to im- possible ; but in plush, where there are two piles working ad- versely, the seams must be basted very thickly with a thm layer of paper between, and then sewn with the paper in the seam, and that by pricking. After being sewn, strip the paper away, and a fair seam will result if carefully done. ^. Fig. 8. — Full Dress Livery. ^Z 'U 41 FOOTMAN'S BOX COAT. Figure 9. — Box coat. This is a footman's. At the present time these coats are made to an inconvenient length, for the foot- man has to either throw the skirts aside, or to Hft them up when going up steps. The seams should be plain. The total length is about 54 inches. The style of the front of a footman's coat is the same as that described on Fig. 3 of the coachman, and, indeed, the cut of it is much the same, except that the rows round the hand are not always added for the footman. He has, besides, pleat pockets, with side edges and six buttons at the back, but none at the bottom of the pleat. The seams, of course, must be plain. 43 PAGE'S LIVERY. FiGURii lo.— This suit is that of a page's livery, with a lace sham-hole on the collar. It buttons up to the neck, and has a pointed cuff. The trousers should be cut about 17 by i6|, or thereabouts, for a bo}' of 30 breast and age 14. The popular colour of these jackets is green, with an amber edging. Instead of the collar ends meeting, as in a military tunic, they now usually open a little so as to show the white tie which the boys wear beneath them. The making of a page's jacket is the same as a shell jacket, and I recommend that half a ply of wadding be flash basted to the lining, as it gives a smarter-looking coat and a better fit. Some of the page boys in London are wear- ing shoulder straps or cords, with a button at the neck. That, of course, is a matter of arrangement. 45 FOOTMAN'S PANTRY SUIT. Figure ii. — This is a pantry jacket, or what is caUed a striped Jean, which is worn for work in the pantry and about the house, but a servant does not, except by permission, enter any of the rooms on service thus clad. There are two pockets, with weks across the front, and the jacket is made 23 inches long. This jacket is worn over the striped evening vest. The material of which these coats are made is called Jean, and the stripe is very narrow, say y^ths of an inch, and the same spacing of white between ; some in blue, some chocolate, some almost scarlet in these stripes. Our artist has represented the vest here as being cut on the cross quite properl3\ They do not, as a rule, have a waistcoat the same as the jacket, but wear, as this one is wearing, their livery vest. At the same time, I have made them, and may again. The jacket is pretty much the same as a steward's jacket on board ship. I'hey are handy and work- able things, and as has already been hinted on certain occasions and at certain houses, they may be admitted into the breakfast room. 47 FROCK COAT FOR A MIDDLE-AGED COACHMAN. Figure 12. — There are a good number of servants retained until far on in life for lighter work, or for driving the older members of the family. I have represented in this cut a dress for such a person. The vest is long, and the coat ditto and cut easy. They are often permitted to wear their coats unbuttoned, and this coat is here shown so worn. They sometimes retain the old-fashioned coachmen's gaiters instead of boots with tops. These are also represented on figure. It is well to remember in cutting these garments that they should be, so far as the coat is concerned, long and easy, the vest a little longer than usual and extra easy, and always fitted with sleeves unless otherwise ordered ; the breeches with plenty of room round the hips, and coachmen of middle age do not mind a little fulness in the thigh. The gaiters should not be shaped in above the heel like a pair of ladies' gaiters, but should go fairly straight and easy. 49 POSTILLION'S JACKET. Figure 13. ■ — The postillion's jacket is now almost, but not quite, a thing of the past. It is still worn by not only the Royal livery servants, but on many other occasions, such as aristocratic weddings, and there is usually a postillion's dress supplied to some member of the stable staff of many of the wealthy families in the Kingdom. These coats are always made double-breasted. I have represented in this one a lapel seam. As a matter of fact, they are often made without one. Thus, those I have made have had the shape infused by stretching and shrinking the seam on the back, but I see no reason why a lapel seam should not be inserted, as it simplifies matters materially. The buttons should be about i^ inches apart ; in fact, the number or " thickness," as we express it, of the buttons, has a good deal to do with the style of the garment. Invariably they have a belt of the same material, 2^ inches in width, but some are made like an Eton jacket so far as the bottom is concerned. The stand collar should be run back at the points slightly, so that it opens three-quarters at the bottom and i^ at the top, and is made not less than 2^ in depth. The cuff has two buttons at the seam, but has a pointed cuff in many cases. 51 COACHMAN'S CAPES. Figure 14.— Elsewhere instructions are given (see Plate V.) for cutting coachman's cape. This is simply an illustration show- ing the style the front runs, and the relative distance apart between one and the other cape on a figure. It is true that they are sometimes made by a sham piece being sewn underneath to repre- sent the cape, but it is a very paltry and sloppy way which I neither practise or recommend. The fur cape, that is, black Russian bearskin, made about 18 inches in length, has replaced to a great extent this style of cape, though even this of late is less frequently seen than it was a few years ago. 53 CLUB PORTER, Figure 15. — This is a club porter. As a matter of fact, club livery is very much the same as private livery, but the hall porter usually wears a single or double breasted frock coat or a species of a patrol jacket. I have represented just one specimen. The edges and the side seam of the trousers, the collar and cuffs, are all laced usually with gold about f in width. Sometimes, however, it runs to as much as i inch or il inches in width, and is of a lower quality of gold lace. SCHOOL OF PRACTICAL CUTTING. Principal : X. M. MOl-IDI MO '.[Editor of ^^ London Tailor," 2d., & \s) A Group in the Cutting School. ^ Terms on Application. ^ yfoiding'6 ^uttin^ 73ooA4. MR. F. MORETON, (Blackburn,) "Writes : '' I may say, without any attempt at flattery, that from the experience I have gained by twelve years' reading of Tailors' papers, I think inore may be learnt in studying your Works than all the rest put together!' fttfi SfutAor4 '€uttmg WorA4. X LADIES' GARMENT CUTTING, price los., bound, red cloth, and gilt. These Systems any man may learn in a few lessons. The Habit train, L alone, is worth double its cost. The old work is sold out — Tliis is a new ivork entirclw BREECHES, TROUSERS, VEST, & GAITER CUTTING, los., bound in cloth and gilt. This, too, is a new work, embracing every type of small garment. COAT CUTTING, los., green cloth and gilt. A nnv worii succeeding two previous ones. The beauty of style and simplicity delights all who use it. STOUT CUTTING, 5s., bound crimson cloth. The outcome of this work is such, that stout figures are fitted easily, and beautifully. Very simple and thoroughly reliable. , CUTTERS' DIFFICULTIES, gs. A work treating fully on the difficulties of " How to Alter." Bound 5 in real leather. LIVERY CUTTINGS, 5s. Bound red cloth. Any Cutter may now compete, by the aid of this work, with the best livery tailors in town. Uniforms for all Services, 25s., red cloth and gilt. A magnificent Picture book and full of all information touching the subject of Uniforms. Special systems for all branches of the Services. Postage 6d. on larger works, jd. on lesser.