■^ ^«==» •ii!fji-i'£.iis;^!sm:msm£mtmi. fflo' •i^O <.-^':i^\'-^(itr^'^-'-^SJii^if^^'*^:J^^'X,^'i&ii'^ t]^j^ij^W^cr^i|ai;^j^Ujs^^ If £3*^ fi.^' |/^ TWO WOMEN IN THE KLONDIKE The Story of a Journey to the Gokl-Fields of Alaska BY MARY E. HITCHCOCK With lo; Illustrations and Map G. P. Putnam's Sons New York and London Xlbe •ffoiicUerbocKcr press 1899 CuPVRIGHT, lSg9 BV MARY E. HITCHCOCK Entered at Stationers' Hall, London Ube 'Rnfcftcibockcir pices, mew Borl! To MRS. ELISHA DYER THIS VOLUME IS LOVINGLY AND GRATEFULLY DEDICATED BY' The Author NOTE ' I ""HE author hereby expresses her cordial acknowledgment * to all those from whom she has received assistance by the contribution either of stories or of photographs, which she has recorded in her journal or has utilised in the prepa- ration of her volume. Special thanks are due to Miss Edith M. Van Buren for certain facts and stories, and for a number of photographs ; also to Dr. Dow, Mr. Arthur D. Spiess, Mr. Von Millengen, Dr. DeCow, and Mr. E. A. Hegg, for their kindness in per- mitting the reproduction of photographs belonging to them. New York, May i, 1S99. THE story of Two Women in the Klondike, written by Mrs. Roswell D. Hitchcock, who with her friend Miss Edith Van Buren, braved all the hardships and dangers of a journey to the Klondike and all the discomforts of a life along the very skirmish line of civilization where the turn ing of a spade has oftentimes led to the discovery of a for- tune, cannot fail to be most interesting and most instructive. Mrs. Hitchcock is the widow of the late Commander Ros- well D. Hitchcock, of the U. S. Nav}-, who was the son of Professor Roswell D. Hitchcock, for many years President of the Union Theological Seminar}-, New York. Mrs. Hitchcock herself is descended from Lord FitzGerald. Her grandfather and father were born in Norfolk, Virginia, where many of her relatives now live and wliere the old family mansion is still a landmark, although it has passed into other hands. Miss Van Buren is a grand-niece of President Van Buren and daughter of General Van Buren. who was United States Consul-General to Japan in the eighties. The two travellers were born and reared in luxury' and refinement and the narrative of their daily life in that terri- ble Wonderland of the North is of itself not onh- a tiibute to their own perseverance and determination, but to the char- acter of intelligent and fearless Anglo-Saxon women, who, among all sorts and conditions of men, never fail to secure protection and respect. Elisha Dyer. Providence, Rhode Isi..\nd, April II, 1S99. CONTENTS. I. — Ho FOR THE Land of Gold ! II. — "With Malice Towards None" III.— Land in Sight ! . IV.— St. Michaels V. — A Trial of Patience . VI.— We Meet Old Friends VII.— Transferred at Last VIII.— We Hear the Signal IX. — Up the Yukon X. — Discomfort of Barge Life XL— Nearing our Destination XIL — The Promised Land . XIIL— We Become Squatters XIV.— The "Sick Boy" . XV. — Our First Dinner in Dawson XVI.— We Become "Free Miners" XVII. — Visiting Mines with a Klondike King XVIIL— Our Man Friday XIX. — Isaacs, the Irrepressible XX. — Our Helpful Neighbours XXL— .\ New Scheme . XXII. —The " Rideout " at Last XXIIL— Trials of Building PAGE I 5 12 25 31 3S 4S 54 70 82 91 99 "3 122 13+ 167 193 205 222 241 261 280 X Contents CHAI'TF.R I'ACE XXIV.— Business Propositions 303 XXV. — A New Experience 327 XXVI.— In the New Home at Last 349 XXVII. — A Series of Disappointments .... 3S1 XXVIII.— Adieu to Dawson 396 XXIX. — The Race with the " Domville " . . . 411 XXX.— The First Portage 431 XXXI.— The Skaguay Pass 439 XXXII.— .\ Day in Sitka 460 XXXIII.— Jake and his Rival 466 XXXIV. — Farewell to Al.\ska 472 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. On Board the St. Paul' Frontispiece Colonel B. and his Fiddle ' S "I KNOWED I COULD PLAY 'EM ALL DOWN" ' ... II Unal.^ska ' 13 E.xTiNCT Volcano in Unalaska ' 16 The Cemetery 17 .A. K.AYAK or Native Boat 19 Unhappy but Resigned 20 "Ten O'clock and the Sun was Setting" ... 23 No^-EL JIosouiTo Screens ' 26 Ox Board the St. Paul ' 29 Cloud Effects at Midnight ' 35 -AL-askan Indi.\ns in Kayaks 41 Successful Miners Returning Home 44 The Wheeling 49 Taking on Wood on the Yukon 63 Drying Salmon on the Lower Yukon 65 Scow ON the Y'ukon 72 Raft on the Yukon 75 Protected from Mosquitoes 8i Horses Swimming the Yukon -' 83 S.\LTING THE PAN g4 A Lesson in PAN^^NG out Gold 95 E 's First Pan 97 WELCOMING A River Steamer in Dawson ' . . . .101 ' Reproduced from photograph by permission of Dr. Dow. ^ Reproduced from photograph by permission of Arthur D. Spiess. xii List of Illustrations PAGE Log Cabins at Dawson ' 103 Monte Carlo Theatre, Front Street, Dawson ' , .105 Canadian Bank of Commerce, Dawson .... 108 View on the Shore of the Yukon 110 West Dawson Showing "The Big Tent" ' . . . .111 P.\CK Dogs 117 A Sleeping-Bag* 119 The Big Tent 123 A Goat Team ■'' 131 Newspaper Vendors^ 135 Main Street, D.\wson, Looking North' .... 139 A D.\wsoN Hotel ■. . 142 Front Street, Dawson '■' 145 Arrival of Seattle No. i at D.wvson City. Photo- graphed AT Midnight ^ 149 Indian Woman of the Klondike 155 Miners Selling Outfits'' 159 Off for El Dorado ' 169 Crossing the Ferry 170 Our Tent on the Trail 172 A Sluice-box in Operation 175 One Pan in a Rich Mine 177 Awaiting the Result of a Clean-up 179 The Result of a Clean-up iSi Clean-up on the B Mine 1S3 Returning from a Clean-up 1S9 Dinner to a Klondike King 195 A Vegetable Garden in the Klondike .... 200 A Corner of the Tent '^ 207 Water Front, Dawson ' 213 Our Helpful Neighbours 219 Northwest Mounted Police, D.wvson 223 Dawson from the River, Showing Landslide . . . 225 ^ Reproduced from photograph by permission of Arthur D. Spiess. ^ Reproduced from photograph by permission of Dr. De Cow. * Reproduced from photograpli by permission of E. A. Hegg. * Reproduced from photograph by permission of Mr. Von Millengeu. '^ Reproduced from photograph by permission of Dr. Dow List of Illustrations xiii PAGE LEARNING TO Chop Wood 227 Dogs Hauling Logs 229 a mery meal ' 233 Girl Wanted ' 237 Preparing Dinner 247 Crossing the Yukon ' 251 A Street Scene in Dawson • 265 A Group of Frospectors 269 Our Neighbours who Elected me Mayor .... 270 Ladue's Store 273 A Klondike Te.\m 277 First and Only Fire Engine 289 Erection of Tammany H.all, Dawson ' . . . . 293 The Stationer's Store 306 The Lock of Hair for the Widow 323 Miss Van Buren in Travelling Costume .... 329 The Assay Office 33S Tied Up at Dawson 343 Our House Finished at Last 350 A Shipment of Gold, September 14, 1S9S - . . . . 353 Waiting for the Mail 363 The Flora ^ 393 Life on a Barge ' 401 Pioneers of Dawson "^ 407 A Klondike King 409 The Domville Passing us 414 Five Fingers or Rink Rapids 421 Miles Canon 424 Miles Canon Between White Horse and Bennett . . 429 Portage Between Lakes 432 White Horse Rapids " 433 The Nora 436 Chilkoot Railway and Transportation Company ' . . 440 One Mile River, between Lakes Linderman and Ben- nett ■' 441 ' Reproduced from photograph by permission of Mr. Von Millengen. = Reproduced from photograph by permission of E. A. Hegg. ^ Reproduced from photograph by permission of Arthur D. Spiess. xiv List of Illustrations PAGE On the Skaguay Trail 443 A Bunk House 445 Johnson Glacier, near Skaguay ' 447 "Can you Go no Farther?" 449 A Hard Road for Tired Feet ■ 451 Blasting on the Skaguay Pass ' 453 Cutting Rock for a Grade on Tunnel Mountain ' . . 455 The Cemetery, Skaguay 45S Mrs. Hitchcock 459 Our Room-mate 461 Indian Children at Sitka 463 KiLLISNOO 46S "Soapy" Smith and his Gun 470 Bear Totem, Fort Wrangel 473 Map of Alaska ■ in pocket * Reproduced from photograph by permission of H. C. Barley. - Reproduced from photograph by permission of Arthur D. Spiess. ^ By permission of Miner Bruce. TWO WOMEN IN THE KLONDIKE TWO WOMEN IN THE KLONDIKE CHAPTER I HO FOR THE LAND OF GOLD OUR magnificent Great Danes, Queen and Ivan, met us near the wharf, which was crowded with such a mass of people that it was no easy task for our coachman to guide his horses to the gangplank of the steamer which was about to make her maiden trip to St. Michaels. Although it was still early, her decks were thronged. We slowly worked our way to our cabins, where we found that our maid, who had preceded us, had carefully arranged such articles as she thought necessarj' for so adventurous a journey. We were sorry to leave her behind us, but the responsibility of taking a young and pretty girl into such regions as we had planned to explore would have been too great. In San Francisco our outfitting kept us in one mad rush, so that, during the last week, our rule was twenty hours for work and four for sleep ; but the work had been so interest- ing, the various projects so exciting, that the four hours were passed in planning, rather than sleeping, as our brains continued to act, and would not be stilled. At half-past five writing and making up accounts began ; then we hurriedly took a cup of cofiee while dressing ; rushed to reach the shops as soon as opened, had no time for luncheon, and the stores 2 Two Women in the Klondike were closing before we were aware that it was time ; then dinner, with only half an hour to spare for it, and a hasty comparison of notes before starting to listen to ' ' records ' ' for our graphophone, and music for our ' ' criterion " ; to learn to prepare the beautiful acetylene light with which we in- tended to illuminate our tent. We were taking extreme pleasure also in outfitting a protege, whose stories of life in Dawson, and whose manj- schemes for making a fortune had greatly interested us. Preparations for the trip were often retarded by dear, kind friends who wrote : " Cannot under- stand your silence " ; or, " This is my fourth letter, but not a line have you deigned in reply " ; or, " It is hard to believe that j'ou have so changed and have no longer a thought for me." The last night was spent in reassuring those who could not understand. Thanks be to the Lord ! It is all over now and we have before us at least a fortnight of blissful repose — even sea- sickness will have no terrors. We are just passing out of the beautiful Golden Gate. As we were leaving the dock, Mr. W appeared with his machine for taking moving pictures, shouted a request for us to stand in the bow of the steamer and wave our handkerchiefs. From his smile of satisfaction we judged that the resemblance would be striking and that we should soon be en evidence at some of the vaudeville shows, where " The Departure of the St. Paul for the Klon- dike " might be announced in loud tones. Such is fame ! This longing of ours to see one of the few countries un- known to us had created such astonishment among our friends and acquaintances that we were considered quite mad — -fit subjects for an insane asylum. The remarks we heard on all sides were also far from flattering or con- soling. At each stage of our journey from New York to San Francisco, reporters b)- the dozen came to interview us. Such questions as these were asked us : " Do you mean to say that you really intend to give up all the luxu- ries and comforts of home life to camp out and endure such privations and hardships as we read of? Have you ever climbed mountains ? Tramped through swamps ? Stumbled ^3 CO o CCZ Ho for the Land of Gold ! 3 over rock}- precipices ? I-\ was called b}- a news- vendor, and I made my first purchase of an ordinary daily journal of June 13th which had the mark " five-cents," in the corner. It was sold to me for twentj^-five. " You will soon Land in Sight ! 19 amass a fortune at that rate. " " Oh, no ! I have been getting one dollar for them ; these are cheap," the man replied He had just disposed of three dozen five-cent badges at twenty- five cents each, he informed me. What will the prices at Dawson be ? E then joined me, and we wended our way to the wharf, expecting to take the steam-tug and reach the St Paul for the noon lunch-hour, but, on reaching the dock, we were told that the next trip would be at one o'clock, A KAYAK OR NATIVE BOAT. so we secured a rowboat. We were expressing some doubt as to its sea-worthiness, when its owner exclaimed that had it not been a fine one, he never should have brought it all the way from Seattle. As he rowed, he informed us that he also was waiting to get to Dawson, having been landed on the beach by an irresponsible steamship company which had taken his last penny in payment for a ticket, yet had fulfilled 20 Two Women in the Klondike less than half of their contract. He was now trying to turn an honest penny and earn sufficient to enable him to reach the promised land. On reaching the 5"/. Paul, we found the ladder far above us, and after rowing several times around the ship, calling in vain for someone to lower it, we went back to shore to escape the ropes thrown to us bj- kindly hands, as we feared being lassoed. Another walk and chat UNHAPPY BUT RESIGNED. with men who were as anxious to talk and explain, as we to ask whys and wherefores. At last came the launch, and as we neared the steamer's side, we trembled at thought of the chaff to come, after our ignominious retreat. Instead, we received a round of applause as we boarded, for which we could not understand the reason. Our luncheon had been saved for us by an attentive steward, and needless to saj*, was thoroughly enjoyed after our long tramp. The afternoon was passed in writing and watching the natives in their boats. Land in Siefht ! 21 o Towards evening, the tug came alongside, with an un- usualh' fine-looking body of men on board. To our sur- prise, instead of climbing the gangway ladder, they stepped on board the coal-lighter and began taking oif their coats. " What does this mean ? " we asked in astonishment. " Who are they ? " " That 's the night-gang come to ' coal ship,' " replied one of our oflBcers. We could scarcely be- lieve it possible that these great big splendid specimens, whose appearance of culture and general refinement bespoke a fitness for some higher calling, should so willingly perform a work apparently far beneath them, and to our expressions of astonishment the same officer made answer, " Oh, they 're down on their luck just now ; been dropped here by different steamers that could n't fill their contracts, an' then some o' them, the Alaska Commercial Company 's been feeding all winter, an' they '11 probably take a lot o' them on to Dawson an' give 'em their grub besides. Why this 'ere Company 's fed over three hundred men this winter, an' there ain't one of 'em but 'd be glad to work in the most menial position for 'em." June 2ist. A steady drizzle, but I dressed and went up to feed the dogs, who were softly crying at sight of the land which they could not reach. Our plans were made to spend the day in a trip to Dutch Harbour, close by, a visit to the Rus- sian church, also to the Mission. The rain alone would not have prevented, but the thought of trying to climb up the wharf on slippery, shaking slats, of being pushed by those from below, and pulled by those from above, of the trouble we would give the men accompanying us — this all combined to cause us to remain on board, consoling ourselves that we might be able to carrj* out our programme on the return trip. The few merchants of the place might have made a good in- vestment by arranging an attractive landing-place, as there were a number of small articles which we would gladly have purchased. June 23d. At sea once more. After a quiet, peaceful day, the pass- 22 Two Women in the Klondike engers congregated iu the stern of the boat, where thej* were entertained by the stewards with mandolin and banjo music, until some of the women indicated a desire to dance. Part- ners were abundant. One of the characters — a Mr. O asked me if he might " have the honour." I declined most politely, saying that I had only come to look on for a few moments, then walked rapidl}' forward. Footsteps quickly followed and a voice caused me to turn as it shouted, " Say! you may not think it, but I 'm a prize dancer, I am ! and 't ain't often a lady gits a chance to refuse me ! I don't want you to think I 'm a-stickin' feathers in ni}' cap, but I jess want ter tell you, that I kin put on a dress coat an' go to the finest kind of a ball, and have half the girls in the ball-room a beggin' me to dance with 'em, or I kin go inter a beer-hall an' dance with the best of 'em." " Evidentlj- you 're not proud." " No, I ain't ; but you seem to be. You keep by yourself and seem to be stuck on your own sassietj''. Why don't you give some o' us the benefit o' your conversation, inste'd o' writin' all the time ? Why don't you never dance when everybody else does ? Ain't that coz j'ou 're proud ? Now you might n't think it of so heavj' a man as me, but I tell you there ain't no one in it so far as dancin' 's concerned. I 've been the prize dancer all over the United States, and people mostly is proud to get me for a partner. Anyway, it 's the first time I '\^e asked and been refused, and it 's gallin' — that 's what it is." He was finally mollified, and his wounds healed by hearing that no one else should be granted the privilege which he had not been able to obtain. June 24th. Shouts of " land," awakened passengers this morning, and King Island was announced, but, unfortunately, it was too far off for pictures to be taken. After luncheon there was great excitement, and the upper, or shade deck, was crowded by many who gazed upon icebergs for the first time. Down they floated towards us, singly, and in fantastic shapes. We steamed through them carefully — then the pulse-beats of the engine were slowed, as we saw in the distance what seemed Land in Sight ! 23 to be an impenetrable barricade, and we began to realise the meaning of the old sa3'ing, " We could hear ourselves think. " A man was sent aloft to indicate a passageway. To our inex- perienced eyes, that long wall of ice before us seemed to shut out all hope of entrance, but the sailor guided ns to a narrow doorway through which we passed into a clear sea. Not for long, however, did we steam at full speed. Far in the dis- tance a small cake of ice appeared, then another, and still another, until we were soon in what could onlv be termed an TEN O'CLOCK AND THE SUN WAS SETTING.' ice-field, with the stillness of death around and not even the voice of a bird calling to its mate to be heard. It is difficult to describe the solemn stillness which pervades this vast re- gion, dotted with ice-floes speeding noiselessly to destruction ; the silence unbroken bj- a single .sound save the throbbing of the steamer as it advanced slowly through this wilderness 24 Two Women in the Klondike of space. Language becomes too poverty stricken to express the awe and admiration which fill the soul at such a time. We were aroused from revery by hearing, " Yukon 's broken up, sure enough. Would n't a' believed she could a' held so much ice. We 're all right to go in now if the river boat 's waiting for us as the Company promised, and we '11 be the first ones in, too. Won't ' the boys' give us a rousing wel- come ! " It was ten o'clock and the sun was setting. How we longed for the perfection of colour photography. No artist could ever have placed such wonderful shades on can- vas. At 1 1 P.M. our kind fellow-passenger, Dr. D , took this photograph for me, hearing me express a wish for the magnificent cloud effects. CHAPTER IV ST. MICHAELS June 25th. THE dropping of the anchor, the shouts, the lowering of boats, brought many a head to the windows. Three bells struck. Only half after five, and no further sleep, for there is St. Michaels, flat and uninteresting in appearance from this distance ; nothing to be seen but a few houses and tents, several ships and barges. We hear the shout, ' ' River has been open two weeks," so, expecting to be transferred at once, packing begins, and plenty of it there is, too, after a fortnight at sea. At eight o'clock we were told that there was not a river steamer in, and that we might be obliged to remain on board a week or more. After luncheon everyone hung about the gangway in " store clothes," ready and wait- ing for an opportunity to explore St. Michaels. Finally someone said to the First Officer, " Can't we go ashore ? " " Not in the ship's boats," replied he grufSy, and as the barge came alongside, on which the river freight was to be stowed he gave orders to rope the passageway, and we were penned in like a lot of sheep. Good Father R ap- proached, and, listening to the complaints, which were loud and long, insisted that we should be allowed to cross before the work of changing freight began. He was assisted in his eiforts by a man who seemed to be in charge of the St. Michaels department of the Alaska Commercial Company, and who proved to be as helpful as their employees generally are. He quickly called for the gangplank, had the ropes cast aside, and a happy lot of passengers were soon on the tug. We found the point of attraction to be the store of the 25 26 Two Women in the Klondike Alaska Commercial Compan}-, a large roomy building with post-office in one corner, similar to the arrangement at the settlement of Iliuliuk, Unalaska. The hooped veils were being inquired for by men as well as women, who expected ■with such protection to be able to escape the mosquito pest which makes life miserable in these regions. A verj' funny picture was thus presented as we looked at one another through such novel screens. The supply soon gave out, so an enterprising passenger purchased netting and wire from 1 NOVEL MOSQUITO SCREENS. which she soon fashioned the required article, for which she charged and received one dollar each. On to the Custom House I went, but the door was locked, and the Indian on the porch informed me that the Inspector was taking a walk. He pointed him out in the distance. I followed, soon reached the end of the plank walk, then struck into the grass)', muddy soil, jumped several ditches or crossed on a plank, until a particularl)- marshy .spot was reached, over which the Inspector, his wife, and friend had easil}' passed, being properlj- shod for such soil, but as they were within hailing distance, I called out and told my errand, which was, that as our Government does not take our word. St. Michaels 27 even under oath, it would be necessary for me to have my sealskin wrap stamped before going into British territory, in order to prove on mj- return that I was not swearing falsely as to having been its lawful possessor before crossing the boundary line ; otherwise I must be deprived of it, no matter how cold the weather, or submit to unjust payment. Truly, a brilliant idea, which Uncle Sam would never ap- prove of could he but realise the humiliation thereof. Some years ago, when about to make a trip through Europe, a brilliant and prominent foreign ambassador kindly pre- sented me with a paper, addressed to custom-house officials, testifying as to mj- position and that I was worthy of ever}' consideration. This not onl^' passed me through every custom- house of the Old World, but caused me to receive the most distinguished marks of courtesy. I first presented it in Italy, where the chief himself came to see that my boxes were passed and asked if he could be of further service. After thanking him most warmlj' I looked about for someone to fee. I tried to slip a sum of money into the hand of one of the underlings near me, but he drew himself up and said, " Signora, to a soldier of Italy, never ! " On ni}' return to New York, after a long absence from " ni}- own, my native land," on showing this paper and explaining what it had done for me in other parts of the world, I meekly said, ' ' It is probably of no use here," to which came the quick reply, " You bet your sweet life it ain't," and the gowns which had been so carefulh- packed were tumbled into a hopeless mass of chiffons, which caused me to assert mentally that if ever women do have their rights, and should I have a little brief authority, my first movement would be to have " packers " on the wharf to soothe the injured feelings, .smooth out the wrinkles, and repair damages done b^' this insulting search. Of course this is all irrelevant, but I feel as the small boy described liis mother's state, — " Ma promised she would n't tell Pa, but she jess could n't help it, an' now she 's done it she feels bit I! v.'' When the St. Michaels Inspector was informed that I had been told in San Francisco that it would be easier to have the 28 Tno Women in the Klondike stamping done by him, he replied, " Oh yes ! they think we have nothing to do up here, but I have no appliances what- ever for that sort of thing ; however, if you will send in an application describing the wrap, and have the purser or someone, sign that j-ou purchased it in the United States, then I will make out a paper with the official seal, and you may sew it inside the lining. This ended my first interview in St. Michaels. I took snap-shots of manj- of the little one- story houses that faced the water, made groups of small In- dian children, who seemed always ready to be photographed and obeyed readil3' the motion of the hand. The interesting pamphlet arranged by the Ala.ska Commercial Company tells us that " the natives about St. Michaels and all over the big Ynkon delta, are Eskimo belonging to that strange race which stretches from the domain of the Aleuts on the west to ' Greenland's icy mountains ' on the east. They have nothing in common with the Chukchi of the easternmost Siberian land, any more than they have with the Aleuts of the islands, which fact has gone against the theory of the original settlement of America by way of Bering Strait. These people form a most interesting study during the brief wait at St. Michaels, while baggage and freight are being transferred from the ocean liners to one of the swift and commodious river steamers. They are among the mildest, and unquestionably the filthiest of humankind. Personal cleanliness in the winter is entirely unattempted. The Eskimo diet con.sists principallj- of rotted fish and rancid seal oil, which give to their habitations an odour from which the nostril of the white man recoils. Though lazy and improvid- ent past all belief, they are tractable, have the powers of mimicry exceptionably developed, readily unravel the puz- zles of white children, and even master chess in a waj' to put to shame their missionary teachers." It then goes on with a description of the geese, ducks, snipe, and other water fowl in countless thousands, willow grouse, deer, caribou, and larger game, while the fishing " is merely a matter of dropping in a line with properly baited hooks, when the creel of the angler will soon be full." St. Michaels 29 Time and space will not permit me to give lurther ex- tracts in regard to the historj- of St. Michaels, nor the ro- mantic story of how a massacre was averted b\- a warning given through an Indian maiden to her white lover in the fort; while, as for the "outfit" instructions, already too many books have been published on the subject. I paid a visit to the Russian priest, but he proved so uncommunicat- ive that, aside from learning that he had been there since ON BOARD THE ST. PAUL. 1882, there was no other information of value to be obtained. He devoted but five moments to showing me the interior of the church. As I, in parting, slipped fifty cents into the hand of his attendant, he whispered to the priest, " ichi ban." This incident is only worth relating because these Indians had already seemed to me ver}' much like the Japanese (except that the latter are probably the cleanest race in the world) and " /(■/;/ ban " is Japanese for number one, or " first class." ^o Two Women in the Klondike It was pleasant to return to the cool, comfortable ship after such unwonted exercise. Those who had visited the native quarters, advised us b_v all means to avoid them. Old Alaskan travellers on board told of a dance that could be seen, by crawling through a hole and then dropping into a cavern. The dancers enter from a subterranean passage, and perform until exhausted. The greatest objection to being one of the audience (we were informed) is, that one reaches da\-light with clothing so covered with vermin that it is unfit for further service. I innocently asked if we might not hire the dancers to entertain us in open air, but was laughingly told that underground performances would not be appropriate to such changed surroundings. Six bells! and it was still light, and difficult to imagine that it lacked but oue hour of mid- night. ^^^SfclUS^ CHAPTER V A TRIAL OF PATIENCE Sunday, June 26th. THERE is something decidedly wrong with the water- tanks, and the water has been growing worse daily. Stories vary, as do all stories on board ship. The popular theory is, that the oil from the machinery has leaked into the tanks ; it is also said that they are trying to make them less porous, but their efforts prove the remedy worse than the disease, so that, to quench one's thirst in " Adam's ale " means accepting a most nauseating dose. It is a great pity, for we have been given an unusually fine chef ; not even on the Atlantic greyhounds have such delicious and tempt- ing dishes been placed on the table, but for those who care not for wine, nor tea, nor coffee — well, perhaps they are to blame for not being more " up to date." We take into con- sideration that this is the St. Paul's first trip and that any slight defect will be remedied before a second voyage, but that is not verj- consoling at the present moment. A party is just returning from a morning spent on shore. One of the passengers whom we have named " the cherub " climbs the ladder and shouts enthusiastically ; " Oh, every- one on shore tells me that my brother Harry is a multi- millionaire ; that he owns dozens of claims, and has sent word for me to join him in Dawson at once." And as the " cherub" seated himself at my side, he gave me a little sketch of his life. Every one rejoiced at the " cherub's" good news, as his kindliness had endeared him to the roughest on board, so that many and fervent were the wishes that he was 32 Two Women in the Klondike not being deceived by a " Yukon lie." Next came one of the passengers, a Mr. Q , who said that he had decided to winter at Dawson, and offered me his return ticket for one hundred and fifty dollars, saying that if purchased at the office of the Company its price would be three hundred dol- lars. Woman's love for a bargain caused me to consider the proposition, but upon consulting someone able to give me good counsel, I was advised : " Buj' 3'our ticket only when you are quite ready to return ; there will soon be much competition on the river, and prices are likely to tumble, so that ' sufficient unto the daj',' etc., should be borne in mind." And now the question is a.sked on all sides, " How soon may we leave St. Michaels ? " In San Francisco, where many Alaskan companies were trjdng to cut each other's throats, we were told at difTerent offices : ''Our river boats are at St. Michaels waiting the arrival of our ocean steamers. No mat- ter what you may be told by other representatives, they have 710 river boats there, of that we can assure j-ou, and j-ou may be obliged to wait at St. Michaels all sunniier if you fail to exercise great care in the selection of the line bj' which you go. We make immediate connection, and, by booking here, you will be the first up the Yukon to Dawson." Well, we followed the best of advice, selected the line of the oldest and most reliable compau}', and here we are, and here we are likely to remain, the Lord knows how long ; for the water in the Yukon is so low, we are told, that all of the Company's river steamers are high and dry on bars. The pessimists say, that " the tide will not rise sufficiently to release them from imprisonment, and that even should we succeed in reaching Dawson there will be no possible chance of return- ing before next year." Such stories, however, are always received bj' me with a very big grain of salt ; so I am not ready to listen to the wiseacres who say, " Take my advice and turn back ere it be too late." A negro on shore entertained a group of listeners yester- daj' with the following : " Git ter Dawson ? Mebbe you thinks you 's a gwine to git dar ; that 's what I thought A Trial of Patience 33 when they dropped me yere ten days ago, but I ain't a think- in' that no more. Every day they 's said, ' River steamer comin' sure to-day ! ' I 's heard dat for ten days — yes, siri?f ! ten days I been here a waitin' on it — same old story eb'ry day for ten days an' mebbe after you all 's been a waitin' ten days you won't believe no more 'bout dem ribber steamers dan I do." Not far from our anchorage a barge is being constructed which we are told will soon be finished — some say in a week ; others, in a day or two. There is a tiny river steamer near, which might carry some of our ninety-four passengers, three in a room. Monday, June aytb. So many wild tales of detention here were floating about the ship last evening, that, when we heard that according to the latest yarn we should have at least a fortnight to remain, it seemed to me quite necessary to get facts from head- quarters ; so, sending for one of the owners, who was himself a passenger from San Francisco to St. Michaels, I re- quested him kindly to put all doubts and conjectures at an end, and reveal to us our fate. He said that only once in ten years could it happen as at present, that there would be nothing ready to take us up the Yukon. The boats of the Alaska Commercial Company had always been the first to enter the river, but this j'ear, owing to the very low state of the water, they are grounded, and their new steamers are not quite finished. " However," added he, " one is so nearly ready that we hope to be able to transfer the pas- sengers in a day or two. It will accommodate about forty, while the others will have good quarters prepared for them on the freight barge. ' ' To my question as to how the cabi ns would be lighted, he smiled and said, " Oh, you won't need artificial light where you are going." He then kindly offered to have my sealskin marked, to save me the trouble of visiting St. Michaels again. At lo p.m., while sitting on deck reading by the light of the setting sun, the " cherub " came to inform me that the Roanoke was coming into the 3 34 Two Women in the Klondike harbour, towing two river steamers, which, we were in- formed, were freighted, and ready to make the trip to Daw- son without delay. How we groaned ! we, who had had the advantage of being the first to reach St. Michaels, could not bear the thought of being passed by the Roanoke, or any other ship. What sympathy we felt for some of our fellow- passerigers who were taking in large cargoes whose value would be greatly depreciated in case of not arriving on time, and here we had not only the Roanoke to contend with but another steamer of the Columbia Navigation Company. Two rivals ! A Mr. S , of Brooklyn came on board and was pre- sented to us. Said he had married Miss I, , of same town, who was urging him to return, " with or without his pile," but as he had staked claims about Rampart City, he thought it unwise to abandon them, for he considered that the first year was only a preparation for the real work of the 3-ear to follow. His stories of camp experience were most interesting, but as we expect to have personal ones, his will not be recorded. Tuesday, June 2Sth. Still in the harbour of St. Michaels with " all hands " im- patient and growling at the detention ; however, the old saying that " misery loves company," seems most true in this case and few there are who are not delighted to know that although the Roanoke and the steamer of the Columbia Navigation Company towed their own river boats, for some as yet unexplained reason they are not able to go farther. Those who have cargo on board are almost frantic at the thought of prospective losses through this dela}', while the less interested members of the part}' fear that the best claims, houses, and sites will be gobbled up before our arrival. Meanwhile, all are praying that the Portland, with our new river boat, may be seen soon entering the harbour, and are straining their eyes in search of her. What a lottery is life ! and how our fortunes hang upon the slightest contingency. This afternoon, while almost all our passengers were on 36 Two Women in the Klondike shore, I remained to give the dogs a run, and was well re- paid for it by a visit from a New York man who is on his way home, having " made his pile." Only eight days ago he was in Dawson, so was able to clinch the " Yukon lies," and give me late information. According to his story, the river has never before been so low. Steamers are lying aground all along its banks. They have little chance of coming down, nor have we of going up, unless a heavy rain sets in, for the snow and ice have already melted and disap- peared. Nothing can go through now drawing more than scant four feet of water. My informant left Dawson on a tiny steamer .scarcely fitted to carrj' twentj'-five of the hun- dred men who crowded it, but so determined were they to reach the " outside," that, although they were literally wedged in like sardines, no complaint did they utter. He was surprised and amused at the questions that people put to him simply because of his having wintered in Dawson, and said indignantly, " Why, one woman even asked me how much mone\- I had made this year, and did not seem to realise the impertinence of the question, so I told her seven hundred and fifty thousand (might as well have said that as anything else), and she replied, ' Oh, how nice ! Annie, come here ! Here 's a gentleman who 's just made seven hundred and fifty thousand dollars in Dawson this winter ! Just look at him ! ' and they stared at me as though I were a wild animal ! " He laughed heartily at the tale that we should be obliged to pay one thousand dollars a month ground-rent for a place to pitch our tent, and said, " Al- though Dawson is now so crowded that men jostle each other in walking, prices have not begun to reach that figure except in the business street on the water-front." Upon telling him that I had the option on a house and lot with a spring on the ground, for two thousand dollars, he advised me not to conclude the bargain until after having seen the habitation. Another visitor was a most interesting man who had staked .some claims on the Koyukuk River and was about to return to work them, but as many of our passengers arrived A Trial of Patience 2,7 just then from an afternoon on shore and all were desirous of obtaining' information from him, I returned to my writing. While at dinner, the steward announced that a lady on deck wished to see me. " Who can it be ? " said E . " You know nobody in St. Michaels." I rushed up, to find Mrs. U , of Chicago, whom I had last seen a schoolgirl at Fraulein H 's " pension for young ladies," in Dresden. The astonishing part of the incident was that she was a pas- senger on one of our rival ships — the Roanoke, on her way to join her husband, who was engaged in stock- brokerage and real estate in Dawson. Onlj- a short time had we for remi- niscences, as Mrs. U was engaged to dine on the Bear. After her departure, a small party of us spent the evening on the upper deck watching the glorious sunset, after which Dr. D took some midnight photographs which were very successful. S li <» Q cj' CHAPTER VI WE MEET OLD FRIENDS Wednesday, June 29th. GOOD-MORNING," said a pleasant voice at mj- win- dow. " Your friend Mrs. U , is coming over from the Roanoke to dine with me this evening, and I came to ask if you would join us at half after seven. We shall be twenty-five at table, and only six of the party ladies." " How delightful ! quite makes one feel as though at home again," and a hasty search is begun in the steamer trunk in order to find something worthy of so unusual an event, be- fore resuming the writing of home letters, as this may be the last opportunity for many a long day, and it helps to pass the weary hours of waiting for the river boat which never comes. Later. Did not go on shore to-day as the water is so rough and the facilities for landing so poor that the tempta- tion was not sufficiently great. Those who made the trip were obliged to climb ladders and perform gymnastic feats, before reaching Icira firma, while some waited hours for the return tug, as rowboats were out of the question. The New York man called again, and among other stories, told us of a Klondiker, who had taken a frozen turkey to Dawson, for which he was immediately offered one hundred and fifty dollars, but refused, preferring to raffle it. The result was that he pocketed three hundred dollars by this proceeding. The monotony on board was varied this afternoon by the kindness of Dr. D and Mr. H , who gave me my first lesson in developing photographs. 38 We Meet Old Friends 39 Thursday, June 30th. Such a brilliant entertainment and delicious dinner as we enjo3'ed last evening must be recorded as one of the most pleasing incidents of our trip, no matter what delightful events fate may still have in store for us. Our host, Mr. R , has evidentlj- had good experience in entertaining, judging from the very successful result. My near neighbours at table were the Captain of the Dear, who, with his inex- haustible fund of amusing and instructive stories, divided honours with brilliant Mr.S .whose conversation sparkled with witticisms and repartee. The dinner could not have been surpassed, even "Eastern oj-sters " being supplied. During the feast we were regaled by the music of mandolin and banjo, and, later, adjourned to the large hall below the main-deck, where dancing was enjoyed until one o'clock. As I started then to take leave, protests were heard on all sides. " Don't break up the party so soon. Whj', it 's still daylight; how can one go to bed before dark ? " etc. To-day, after luncheon. Captain T , commander of the Bear, called for a party of us to spend the afternoon on board his craft. We met there a number of passengers from the Roanoke, the general and officers from the station, and the elite of St. Michaels, besides three officers of the U. S. S. Wheeling, which had just come into the harbour. The genial Captain entertained us most charmingly, and as I was leaving, presented me with an excellent photograph of the St. Paul. After dinner the steward handed me the card of Captain S , commanding the U. S. S. Wheeling. The St. PauTs captain kindly offered his cabin as a reception-room, which E and I gladly accepted, delighted to have an evening with an old friend. He expressed great astonishment at our desire to visit so uncivilised a portion of the globe, and kindly asked to be called upon in case he could be ser\'iceable to us in any way. July 1st. After man}' days without going ashore, I went this morn- ing under the escort of the Doctor, who assisted me over the 40 Two Women in the Klondike ditches, in the tramp to " Hotel Fort Get There." Many- times we stopped for a group or a novel view. The exterior of the modern hotel was really far superior to anything we had imagined. There were rocking-chairs on the balcony and a piano in the drawing-room. Crowds of miners everj^- where. Mrs. U (who, in common with all other pas- sengers of the Roanoke, had been landed at St. Michaels, there to remain until time for the departure to Dawson) was at home, received us at once, and complied readil}- with my request to allow me to peep at her room. I supposed it would be very tiny, but that it would be at least all her own. Tiny it was, but to mj- astonishment there was a bed in each of the four corners, and above these beds other four. There were two women dressing in the small space in the centre. Handsome silk gowns hanging on rusty nails looked most incongruous. Just a board floor with not even a rug. Two Chinamen rapped at the door to ask if they might " do the room, Missie ? " I begged permission to photograph just one corner, which was granted upon condition that I would not send the photograph to H , " for she will be sure to say," added Mrs. U , " same old Minnie — room always in disorder." The light was so poor that the result is sure to be unsatisfactory. I asked for a glass of water, which was brought in a tin cup ! The colour of the water was that of weak coffee, but the taste was delicious. With Mrs. U accompanying us, we inspected the storehouse, but the mos- quitoes were so thick and ravenous, that, although men and women were lieavil}' veiled, there was not much relief to be found, as the insects, which have not learned to sing as do their cousins at home, were able to crawl under the screens undetected. We walked back to St. Michaels, where, meeting Mr. S , he was kind enough to accompany me to the custom house to get the certificate which he had not yet been able to secure. It seemed such a farce that he should be called upon to testif}' that E 's sealskin wrap and mine had come from the United States. He then escorted me to the barge, which was being prepared to take us up the river. 'We Meet Old Friends 41 Every carpenter in St. Michaels had been secured to work night and day, so we still have hopes of reaching Dawson before the others, even though we are making a late start. On returning to the S/. Paul, we photographed four natives in their k a }• a k s , which they handle in the most marvel- lous manner. Our passengers, who try them for the first time, are unable to balance themselves, but the Company's pamphlet tells us that the Indians " venture in these skin -boats into troubled seas; with a flirt of the paddle turn themselves completelj- over, bobbing up after completing the under-water round as lightly as so many corks, and in these frail cockle-shells hunt the leviathans of the deep." Thej' remind one of the Japanese, and have the same good-natured, smiling faces ; they laugh heartilj' as Europeans try to bargain with them, taking as a huge joke the offer of two dollars for an article which they are pre- senting at double that price, and, finally, they paddle away without having made a sale, but looking as happy as though the}- had accomplished a successful stroke of business. An interesting visit this afternoon was from a man who carried mail over the Pass to Dawson. Government facili- ties being far from satisfactory, the miners at Dawson — rich and poor — longing for news from home had promised one dollar a letter to an}-one brave enough to undertake the perilous trip. " I needed the money," said our visitor, " and so took the job, but was detained and delaj-ed by ALASKAN INDIANS IN KAYAKS. 42 Two Women in the Klondike many hard and unpleasant experiences, until, just before getting back, a friend came to meet me and said that as I had been so long on the trail the miners had held a meeting and decided that thej' would not pay me. I just walked right in, put the mail on the table, put my shooter on top of it, and said, ' Gentlemen, you are several hundred, and I 'm one and unarmed, but not a man touches a letter without paying his dollar for it ; otherwise, back they go to the post-office from whence they came.' Well, I got four thousand dollars on that one job. I came here without a penny, from a farm that did n't pa)-. The first year I sent three hundred and fifty dollars home to mj- wife and children ; the next year seven hundred dollars ; each 3'ear more, and now I 'm sending three thousand five hun- dred dollars at a time. Have been out here seven years, and intended to go home this month, but mj- three part- ners all went home at this season of the year, and the summer heat killed 'em. So I 'm a-goin' to wait till autumn. I 've got plenty o' claims an' I '11 sell every one so soon as I can get my price," added he, with a wink, as he went over the side to take the tug for shore. " What did you think of your visitor?" said a passenger to me. " Most entertaining," I replied. " Other people think so, too," said he, " or at least I suppose so, as he has earned the name of ' Windy Bill.' " At 10.30 P.M. Dr. D approached rapidly, saj-ing, " Come to the stern of the boat; I want to show 3'ou an un- usual sight." The "cherub" and I followed, wondering and silent, until the Doctor said, " Look ! " A great ball of fire was ri.sing in the east — in the west, a similar ball of fire was sinking. The grandeur and magnificence were so impressive that we gazed in silence upon the wondrous works of the Lord. July 2d. There are so many prognostications that we may not be able to get " out " (entering Alaska is always spoken of as " going in; " leaving it, as " going out " ) this winter, that I am sending home by this mail to get an outfit for developing We Meet Old Friends 43 photographs, as the Doctor has been good enough to promise me all necessary instructions. Later. A man-of-war's boat came alongside. An officer in unifonn boarded the SL Paid, and inquired for Mrs. H . It was my old friend, Lieutenant C , who said: " How unexpectedly we meet, and in what curious parts of the world. I could scarcely believe it possible when I heard that you were here, on 3'our way to Dawson. Whoever would have dreamed of j'our becoming one of a band of pioneers." Reminiscences of life in Europe, Japan, and at a certain navy yard not far from San Francisco made the evening pass rapidly. We were joined by Captain S — ■ — and Lieutenant T of the Wheeling, and, although it was 9 P.M. I photographed the group on the upper deck success- fully. After they left, we chatted with the Doctor, the " cherub," and Mr. R until six bells struck and re- minded us, that, although still so light that the canary was singing and the dogs could not decide to enter their tent, it was quite time for us to separate. July 3d. A cold, rough, rainj-, windy day, the steam turned on, and everyone trying to keep warm. At half after eleven Captain S came to take us to lunch with him on the Wheeling. We were obliged to watch our chance as the seas dashed against the side of the boat and jump into the steam launch as she rose. After an exciting spin across, we found ourselves once more upon the deck of an American man-of- war. We were so delightfully entertained, that we might have found it difficult to make our adieux had we not hap- pened to see the arrival of another steamer from Dawson, the sight of which put us in a feverish state of excitement to obtain the latest news from our future home. Our first news was, that the " cherub's " brother had arrived, and presented him with any number of claims, to sell or to work as he pleased ; the dear " cherub's" face was beaming, and we, in common with others rejoiced at his good fortune. The captain exclaimed, " I 'm glad those boys are in luck, for their mother is one of the loveliest of women." 44 Two Women in the Klondike Wild stories were circulated bj- the new arrivals, and we could choose for ourselves those we thought most worthy of credence. Some said they were leaving enormously rich claims behind them, as it did not pay to work them with Canadian laws becoming more stringent and the royalty so exorbitant. They had come to the conclusion that a syndi- cate was trying to force the true owners out, and take pos- SUCCESSFUL MINERS RETURNING HOME. session of the abandoned property. On one side we heard that those in Dawson were so wealthy that they did not care what they paid for desired articles; on the other, they were so poor that they were unable to raise the money to leave the countrj-; as for our informants, they declared that they were taking out two millions among them, while there was five hundred and fifty thousand dollars in the safe of their steamer, — which may or may not be true. We Meet Old Friends 45 The Doctor, who has become enthused with the unlimited possibilities in this wonderful countrj-, has decided finally to remain for the winter, and is now fitting himself out with furs and other necessary articles, as are many of the pas- sengers, who came only " to see," but remain hoping to conquer. E— — and I have already grub-staked trusty men, to go to the rich Koyukuk River — ^two we have sent in with supplies for two years each, while to another we have given a suflEcient amount for assessment work on six claims. All in life is a lotterj-. One prize from this river, which we consider the richest in Alaska, would more than repay us. Midnight. Such excitement ! The Bella came in from Dawson this evening, towing a barge containing over two hundred passengers, and, although it was still raining, they had but a canvas cover over their sleeping accommodations. As the barge was made fast to the St. Paul, we watched the crowd of returned miners to see if we might judge b}- their faces whether they had been successful in their search for gold. The greater number were clothed in Jerseys, and trousers made from blankets. The gangway ladder was let down. The purser stood at the head of the landing, and the miners came up in the most orderly fashion, after having made room for the half-dozen women to precede them. Some had grips so heavy that it was necessarj' to set them down on each step for a moment's rest. Others were so burdened by a bag on the back that it needed no X-rays to tell us of the gold within; then came men with weighty boxes, followed by men whose necks were decorated with what looked like bologna sausages, as they dangled at their sides, but were only skins stuffed with gold dust. " They 're just carrying their gold that a-waj' for effect," whispered one of the women from the barge, " and they 'd oughter have it stolen to teach 'em not to put on so many airs." Two men climbed the ladder, staggering under a box over which they had stood guard from Dawson. We were told, also, that it contained seventy-five thousand dollars. Then came two men with an enormous valise on a stick, an end of the stick on their shoulders — the weight bending 46 Two Women in the Klondike them almost double. After that, followed the reverse side of the picture — a poor fellow carried on board with frozen feet and legs ; another, too weak from scurvy to walk, borne in the arms of two men ; still another who had been blinded by snow was carefully led up the ladder. As we watched those who had been unsuccessful, we were filled with great pity. Those who had started out with high hopes only to return helpless! Pity also we felt for those who had gained enormous riches, knowing but too well of the many traps prepared for them, and from which some of their number might not escape. This large addition to the ship's guests was stowed away in a remarkably short space of time, and the joyful announcement was made that we were to be trans- ferred to the new barge on the morrow, after an early breakfast. July 4tb. Scarcely had we finished breakfast, when the second com- plement of guests appeared upon the scene and took our places ; thej' were followed by a third. Luncheon was an- nounced, and still no order to transfer our effects. A man- of-war's boat came alongside, bringing me a note, the latest papers from Seattle, Harper' s Weekly^ and, to mj' great de- light, a two-gallon demijohn of delicious sparkling water. Mr. O caught sight of the demijohn through the open door, and shouted, " Hulloa ! where did you get that whiskey? L,ooks good! Sampled it yet?" — "No, but you may." An eager hand was outstretched for the demi- john, and the crowd that had gathered at O 's loud tones laughed with delight at tbe surprised air of the victim when he realised his mistake. After luncheon we had visits from Lieutenants C and A of the M'hecline;. Cap- tain S also came to bid us good-bye, as the Wheeling- was to sail on the morrow, and we wondered in what part of the world we should meet next. We were much interested in a Mrs. C , from Dawson, who modestly showed us the nuggets from her several bags. They were of all sizes and she had panned them herself, or taken them " from the dump " she said. One alone was worth two hundred and fiftv dollars. We Meet Old Friends 47 Dinner is over, and we are still on board, although the barge workmen are allowed scarcely a moment for sleep. Those waiting for our rooms are verj' patient and uncom- plaining, which is rather unusual in so large a party, as they had fully anticipated being given our comfortable beds to-night. The harbour is crowded ; several barges have been lost while being towed from Unalaska here, and if the owners of the SL Paul were inclined to be grasping, they could send us up the river three in a cabin ; but we have been treated most handsomely, as though to atone for the keeri disappointment which this unexpected delay is causing us, and the St. Paul is seemingly kept here for our comfort, although long overdue in San Francisco. CHAPTER VII TRANSFERRED AT LAST Tuesday, July 5th. STILL on board, waiting to be transferred. A man-of- war's boat has just left the side, having brought us a few extra luxuries for our voyage, and letters wishing us a successful expedition, and we are once more indebted to the kind officers of the Wheeling. We watch the boat as she skims over the water carrying our note of thanks, watch the sailors as they haul her up; all is ready, and the \Vhedi7ig steams slowly out of harbour while we wave a last adieu. I had almost forgotten a little incident in connection with her when she first came into port. Many of our passengers were desirous of visiting her, but were ignorant of the ways and means. One of them approached E , saying, " May I have the pleasure o' takin' you on board that there American man- o'-war ? " "Thank you, no," said E • politely. Mr. Boastful drew himself up, and in loud tones said, " Well, you 'd much better go with me than any o' the other fel- lows on board o' this 'ere ship, coz I bet you they don't know a livin' soul on board the Wheeling, an' as for me, why the bos'n 's a pertikler friend o' mine — known him all my life — an' you 're makin' a big mistake if you think yer kin git anyone else to show yer round half as well." At II A.M., not having received any orders, we decided to go on shore for the mail. Scarcely had we boarded the tug, when the gong was sounded and we heard the shout, " Passengers from the St. Paul return and take over their luggage to barge." As we rejoiced loudly that the sum- 4S Transferred at Last 49 mons had come at last, a returned Dawsonite exclaimed, " You would n't be so happy if you could realise where j'ou are eoniar. We had some difficulty in getting our pets off. The dogs were crowded into the pilot-house, leaving room only for the man at the wheel ; the parrot was scolding at being dis- THE WHEELING. turbed ; the pigeons were frightened and fighting each other; only the canary was contented and continued to sing merrily. We had heard such exaggerated stories about the river boats that we were pleasantly surprised at the realitj-, but preferred accommodations on the barge, as the cabins had but two berths, while those on the steamer Leah had three — one just off the floor, one very near the ceiling, and one between the two. Neither E nor I felt equal to the gymnastic per- 50 Two Women in the Klondike formance required to " turn in " and " out " and were de- cidedly averse to sleeping where we could not sit up without bumping our heads and bending our backs double. The cabins on the barge, although verj- primitive and constructed in the cheapest possible fashion, were new and clean, with comfortable mattresses ; the beds, table linen, and blankets were also all new, and the basins, carafes, and toilet articles of enamelled agate. We could nowhere see prospective dis- comforts such as we had read of, so started out determined to enjoy all that was pleasant, and to close our eyes to any- thing which must be endured because it could not be cured. A table of pine ran through the centre of the barge, but as the galley was not quite complete, all barge passengers were to have their meals on the steamer Leah, which was to take us in tow. Her dining-room was far too small for so large a number, consequently it was first come, first served, and the stools at the table made one feel as though at a lunch counter. There was a rush for rooms, but, as Mr. S had dis- tinctly told us that ill case there should be a sufficient num- ber of cabins E and I should each have one, we made no eflfort to " scramble " with the others, but went on shore to give the dogs their first run since leaving San Francisco. We had been many times warned that the native dogs would attack them in a body, so we kept as near to headquarters and the miners as possible, knowing that the latter would be ready to help us keep our beauties from a fight ; but we had neither the attack from the native dogs, nor the enjoyment of seeing Ivan and Queen dashing in mad joy and rolling on the turf They walked sedately by our sides as though they had never been weeks from shore, while the enemy skulked in the rear, waiting for a chance to bite and run, and were so cowardly that they disappeared if we but raised our hands in a threatening manner. A very unexpected thing did happen though. The few cows of the place, that had never been known to seem aware of the existence of other dogs, immediately gave chase to ours, and in such a determined manner that the men had to stand in front of us- and pelt them with stones, shouting to us to seek cover. Transferred at Last 5^ After the danger was over, the cows followed down a side street, in a manner which we should not have believed pos- sible had we not been eye-witnesses, hiding behind the small houses to dodge the men and stones, but peeping around the corners as though to watch a chance to break through the ranks. The Collector of the Port took the greatest interest in Ivan. An old man slopped to ask mauj- questions about his pedi- gree, saying that he had owned a descendant of one of Bis- marck's dogs. All whom we met were very talkative ; one poor fellow said he was coming " out " after a five years' stay in Dawson, thoroughly broken up with malaria. On our return to the barge, we were informed that there were at least two in each cabin, so that E and I made no com- plaint at being at last obliged to room together. " There is some advantage in being unpopular," said one of the pas- sengers; " everj-one on board has absolutelj^ refused to share X 's room ; consequently he is triumphantly telling that he is the only one lucky enough to have a cabin to himself, all unconscious of the reason for his solitude." About a year ago, while sojourning at Point-a-Pic, my imagination was greatly excited by articles about the founder of Dawson, with which the newspapers were filled. The more I read, and the more I heard of the Klondike, the more necessary it seemed tome to meet this wonderful man, if one would gain information as to where to prospect, where to stake claims, where to locate, and how to gain untold mill- ions. Dreams developed into plans, arrangements were made for the trip to the promised land, and J ■ 1, 's hand held the key which was to unlock the golden chests. Suddenly appeared a notice in the New York Herald: ' ' J L will sail from San Francisco June for the Klon- dike." " That is to be my steamer," cried I ; but to my great disappointment, on reaching California, it was only to learn that L had already sailed, and was " going in " over the Pass. So I read with avidity all articles in regard to the promised land, in order to gather the information which I had hoped to obtain from him. 52 Two Women in the Klondike And now (after this prelude), to go back to our first eve- ning on the barge, as I sat talking to one of the passengers, a tall, fine-looking man came on board, and stopped a mo- ment to greet my companion, who, after he had passed, said to me, " That 's J L, ; did j'ou ever hear of him ? " — ' ' Hear of him ? More than of any other man of this part of the world." — " Do you want to meet him? I '11 go and get him," but, after a few moments, he returned, saying, " I'm very sorry, but he 's so surrounded I could n't get near him. I '11 introduce him, however, before night." After dinner his promise was fulfilled, and a most interesting chat we had. The information which he gave us was most valuable, and when we asked what chance there was of getting a house in Dawson, he immediately said, "I '11 give you one rent-free." " For how long ? " said I. " For a year," he replied. " Is there a stove in it ? " inquired practical E . " You can buy all the stoves you want in Dawson," said L . " It must be a curious sensation to go alone to a place, and watch its development, as you have done," I remarked. " Oh, }'es ; but if I had it to do over again, I 'd do differently," said L . " I 'd have a cinch on everything, and that 's what I did n't do in the first place. But do let me give you ladies a bit of advice. Don't go to Dawson ; people are dying there like sheep, and they will probably have an epidemic this summer," and off he went to watch the trial trip of his new steam-launch. It seems strange to have no light and no heat on board, and not to feel the need of either in this Arctic Circle, but we had no difiBculty in undressing by the dying rays of the sun. Wednesday, July 6th. A long, enjoyable tramp on shore, with an Englishman. We finally went to the Alaska Company's stores, which were crowded. The men kindly ofi^ered to make way for me, on account of my sex, but, their time being as valuable as mine, I followed the example of other women, and sat on the counter until my turn came. How we laughed at each new experience ! My purchases consisted of a pair of Transferred at Last 53 muck-a-lucks, four dollars, which they say are worth three times that in Dawson ; a small tin of ginger wafers, fifty cents ; and a bottle of lime juice, seventy-five cents. Not such extravagant prices as we had been led to expect. A nasty, rainy afternoon. Nothing to do but to sit on deck, talk with returned miners, and listen to the fascinating stories of Klondike life. Some of them so alarmed E about the many dangers in store for the dogs, that she sud- denly decided to send Queen back to San Francisco on the steamer Si. Paul in charge of the porter who had cared for her when outward bound. Such tales never affect me, as I have learned from long experience that the}' are generally greatly exaggerated, so Ivan remained. After dinner, an- other most agreeable visit from L , who brought his agent with him, instructing him that should our stores not reach Dawson in time v^-e were to be allowed to help our- selves to his. CHAPTER VIII WE HEAR THE SIGNAL Thursday, July 7th. AFTER this morning's shopping experience, will retract all written j'esterday about prices. Ordinary single blanket for Ivan, the cheapest made, seven dollars ; a very common skirt-braid, two small pieces, twenty-five cents ; writing-pads, twenty-five cents each ; ink, twenty-five cents for a five-cent (retail) bottle, and the slimsiest kind of calico, twenty-five cents a j-ard — all to be carried home by the pur- chaser. A short walk with Mr. S , another interesting Englishman, and after stopping to inspect the cannon we re- turned to the Leah, to find that the early birds were being served with luncheon, and that it remained for us to stand in line until the others had finished and departed, a method certainly not calculated to aid their digestion. At two o'clock came the long-waited-for signal — three whistles — and we rush to the barge, watching the last pas- sengers come on board. During the half-hour of suspense before starting, tales were told of a terrible gale ouLside, and of barges that had gone to pieces between here and the entrance to the river, until women were not the only ones who were in a wild state of alarm. At three we were off, and the last stage of the journey had begun. Side b}- side went the Leah and the barge, then the Leah went ahead, and we were taken in tow, quite a distance behind. As we fell back our former messmates shouted : " So sorry to leave you. ' ' " We '11 meet in Dawson, />('r/;n7!>j-." J , who celebrates everything, rushed for his flag, and headed a procession on top of the barge. No lack of enthusiasm could he charge 54 We Hear the Signal 55 against the men this time. He was followed up the ladder by doctors, dentists, barkeepers, millionaires, an ex-senator, hotel-keepers, and two Englishmen. On they marched, backwards and forwards, in serpentine fashion, all singing or shouting anything and everything, whistles screeching from steamers and tugboats, hats and handkerchiefs wav- ing, parting words, pathetic and amusing, called out and almost drowned in the distance. A photographer was on the wharf, taking pictures of the party. Retiring to my cabin to indulge in the usual pastime of writing, a face at the window startled me. One of the passengers, walking on the extremely narrow ledge which surrounded the barge, was on a tour of investigation, cling- ing to each window as he passed ; said windows having no shutters, curtains, or mosquito nettings, the investigator was regretting his temerity, as an attack was being made upon him by my next-door neighbour with an umbrella, which he captured and passed into my room, begging me to take charge of it as confiscated property. At that moment E opened the door and exclaimed, " Romeo and Juliet! " then asked me to go with her to see the first egg in the pigeon-coop, which was attracting general attention. " May n't I come through the window ? " begged Romeo. " This ledge is so narrow, and the people on this row are so unfriendly that I 'm in danger of being thrown overboard." " Yes, if j-ou '11 solemnly promise that it shall be your last offence," .said E . " I never should have tried it at all had I realised the enormity of my sin," pleaded the culprit, as he finally ex- tricated himself and accompanied us to the bow of the barge. " Did you see the new passenger? Does n't .she look like Mrs. W ?" said Y . "Which Mrs. W ?" queried E . " Why, the wife of Mr. W , to whom you have just bidden farewell at St. Michaels." "Oh! he has no wife ! he 's a widower," said E . " You remem- ber his sad story" (nodding at me). The crowd smiled. Some even dared to laugh, while one, bolder than the others, haw-hawed, " A widower ! well, that 's pretty good ! Hov^f did he get the news? I had a few words with his wife 56 Two Women in the Klondike myself when she came down to see him off, so she was all right at San Francisco!" "Oh, that was n't his wife," said E ; " you are mistaken. He told me all about her. She is the sister of his most intimate friend, and came to explain why her brother could not get away." "Well, if that's not a good joke! And j'ou believed him?" said Y . " Certainly — why should I suppose him to be telling me so u.seless a lie? " W , whom we had met on the St. Paid, was a fine- looking man, but without much education, and E , thinking it a pity that he should speak so ungrammatically, had taken him in hand, and he had proved a willing pupil. Later on he confided to her a most pathetic story of the death of his beautiful wife, and of his intense grief which had caused him to eschew society for many years. Imagine, then, with what astonishment E learned that her pupil had not only been deceiving her, but that nearly half of the passengers of the St. Paul were either acquainted with or had seen Mrs. \V verj- often during the eight years which (according to her husband's story) she had passed underground. E was justly indignant. Now the tables are being prepared for the first meal on the barge ; small cliques are being formed. E tells me that we have had three invitations — first, to join Mr. O 's party ; second, the party of Mr. P ; lastly, to be seated with four others near the head of the table, but, in order not to sow the seeds of discord, she decided that it would be bet- ter to follow the plan of the majority, who insisted upon having chairs in front of their cabin doors. Mr. P was asserting that he was tired of the crowd with whom he had been associated on the St. Paul ; while members of that crowd confided to us that they had made up their clique carefully in order to exclude Mr. P . Mr. O— — said we had better come to his table as he was going to boss things. Finallj-, as it was impracticable to keep to our de- cision, we accepted an invitation given by our former host of St. Michaels and the two Englishmen, and so congenial was the .society, so delightful the stories with which they We Hear the Signal 57 entertained us, that we did not mind the " tinned " food set before us three times daily, and concluded that " roughing it " had not j'et begun. As we were enjoying our first meal, a German woman came late to dinner. The steward motioned her to a vacant seat, but she stood immovable. " Here is your place, Madam," he called. " No, that is not mein place," she stoutly main- tained ; "mein place is before mein door, und before mein door will I sit, wenn this frau will get fromitaus." " This frau ' ' continued to dine quite undisturbed by the discussion. The one from Deutschland remained until mince-pie was brought, then weakened, and finally accepted the chair which she had so scornfully declined. When we found that our napkins were to do service a second time each one went in search of a bit of ribbon, seeking a favourite colour ; besides that, the men wrote the number of our chairs in big letters on the damask. After dinner a breeze sprang up, and great excitement was caused by the breaking of the barge rudder. Many of the passengers declared that it was defective when we started and, on investigation, it was discovered that the tools required for making repairs had been left on the dock. Another storj' was circulated that the barge was leaking ; one of the men declared that he had been down below, that the pumps w-ere being used and the cargo ruined. I finally appealed to the purser, telling him that our outfit was of some value, after which he assured me that he had made a thorough investigation and that the story of a leak was absoluteU' false. We were next informed that the rud- der of the steamer was showing signs of weakness, and as we had sixty miles through Bering Sea to make before reaching " the bar," the passengers were very much frightened, and declared their intention of remaining dressed and ready for emergencies should any arise. The barge was then placed in front of the steamer and pushed instead of towed. The floor of the barge vibrated with a serpentine motion as though each v/ave would prove fatal, and, recalling the accidents that had taken place so recently, many of the passengers crossed 58 Two Women in the Klondike to the steamer and remained on deck until 3 a.m. ; the men, seemingly, were more alarmed than the women, as we were told that some of them slept in life-preservers. Plans were made as to our actions in case of disaster. One of the Englishmen said that if I would promise to keep cool and only rest my hands on his shoulder he could easily save me by swimming to shore. Heated discussions ensued among the passengers at things having been so rushed — the same passengers who had protested vigorously against the long delay. At 3 a.m. we came to anchor and, on retiring to our cabins the light of the coming day was so strong that we were obliged to hang our wraps before the window. Friday. Still waiting outside the bar ! No one could tell why, so I inquired of the captain, who replied, " Barge rudder broken, shy on the steamer rudder, and the tools to repair them were left on the dock." There is a carpenter here, but he is wanted everywhere at once, consequently the skylight is not yet finished, and the opening is covered with canvas, excluding light, but admitting rain, to the great discomfort of the passengers, some of whom are now shifting their quarters to the Leah. This leaves a few vacant rooms, and E at once informed the purser and the .steward of Mr. S 's promise. The former said, " Have you got it in writing? " the latter," His words don't go here," and we were obliged to accept the inevitable, as we saw that others were taking advantage of what had been given to us conditionally. Moral, be sure and have everything in writing before you start ! Indians came with salmon and plover for sale. They wanted whiskej- in exchange, but that, being too rare and precious, could not be given, — not from conscientious scru- ples, however, — so they took tea instead. After dinner, some of the passengers anuised themselves by telling stories. They declared that the following " took the cake " : " Last year, when I went ' out ' from Dawson, thought I 'd go and see what kind of a feller that little sister o' mine had married. She deserved the best that 's goin', coz .she was as We Hear the Signal 59 pretty as a peach when I left home, and just as sweet. I never 'ud 'a' knowed I had a brother-in-law had n't Jim Bullock cum ' in 'just as I was goin' back to the mines, and from something he let drop it struck me that Nance had married a second ' Fightin' Bill,' an' as I 'd been strikin' it pretty rich I de- termined to go ' out ' all of a suddint-like, and jess tie up that property o' mine so as nobody but Nance could git a- hold of it, in case I should happen to pass in my chips. Well, I went back to the old home and found it rented to new people, an' they told me that Nance's husband had taken her way out West somewhere. ' That looks bad,' sez I to myself. ' Why could n't he 'a' let her stayed 'mongst them as ez knowed an' loved her all her life? By jingo! I 'm goin' to git on his trail if it takes me the rest o' my natural life. vSo I followed day an' night, first behind the engine, then in a waggon, then on horseback, until I got waj* out into the Indian countr}-. And one night I saw bright lights ahead and knowed there was a merrymakiu' goin' on. " ' I ain't a-goin' to be out of everj-thing,' sez I, so jess made straight for them lights, got a small boj- to shelter mj- horse and gimme somethin' to eat, an' then I peeked into the parlour. Of all the games you ever heeru tell on, this one was the funniest. There was a great big galoot sitting in a easy chair in the middle of the room, and sayin' like a sick kitten, ' I 'm a-pinin'.' ' Who you pinin' for?' said another fool. ' Mary Muggins,' sez he ; so when I seen a girl a-blushin' an' a-tryin' for to hide her face I made sure she was Mary Muggins, and the durned fool led her right up to the other fool in the easy chair and would you believe it, she had to kiss him square on the mouth before he could stop a- pinin' an' walk back among the others. Well, they kept up this tomfoolery for about an hour, when a great big, splendid- looking fellow commenced a-scowlin' at 'em an' a-frownin' at 'em, as though he intended to kick 'em all out. I peeked round a little farther to see what all the fellers were a-lookin' at all the evenin', and bless my soul if there did n't sit Nance, prettier than ever ! I was going to spring for her but ' re- stricted ' myself to find out what the man by her was a- 6o Two Women in the Klondike scowlin' for, an' then decided that he must be ' Fightin' Bill,' who was ready to kill anj' man who dared to ' pine ' for Nance. I was wrong this time, my boys, for just as I sez, ' There 's goin' to be a thunder-storm or I ain't no judge o' human natur, ' ' Fightin' Bill ' rose in his wrath an' sez, sez he, ' My wife 's the purtiest woman here, an' if no one pines for her, there 's goin' to be trouble, and that soon.' In two seconds ever}' feller in the room was a-pinin' for Nance until I just rushed over and sez, ' Nance, Nance ' — an' then knew no more. When I kum to, Nance she was a-cryin' over me, an' ' Fightin' Bill ' held out his hand and said, ' I 'm durned sorry, partner, but how could I tell you was Nance's brother ? ' Well, that ' Fightin' Bill ' kin have all my pile when I 'm gone, an' more, too. He an' Nance gave me the time o' mj^ life, an' they named the baby arter me, an' I 'm goin' back to Dawson to sell out and then back to Nance to eddicate that boy, an' if he don't turn out a high-flyer it won't be his uncle's fault." At elev^en we retired, quite exhausted after the long watch of the previous night. To bed, but not to sleep, as games commenced ; tag was played around the table in front of our doors, shrieks of laughter arose from the 3'oung women who were caught, and .songs, shouts, and whistling all combined to drive away any chance of sleep. Saturday, July gtb. Hardly had the night's fun (?) ended, and we again settled to rest, when the clatter of dishes and the preparations for breakfast began. We awakened to find mosquitoes coming in through the window in swarms, and the never-ceasing rain leaking through the roof. Some articles of clothing were thoroughly drenched, and others too damp for use. The carpenter was persuaded to tack up a wire netting and to plug the knot-holes and other cavities through which the rain dropped. Two of the passengers were drj'ing pillows at the stove in which they had made a fire of drift-wood and broken boxes. One man had a stiff neck, another a cough, while several complained of rheumatism. Many were search- We Hear the Signal 6i ing for bits of wood, and making shelves to hold basin and toilet articles. Mr. Q kindly presented me with a car- penter's bench, which is most useful in lieu of table or shelves. We made friends with the cook, a most excel- lent one, who told us that he began work at 2.30 a.m., finishing at 9 p.m. At table we were allowed one plate for fish, meat, etc., a knife, fork, and two teaspoons, and that, we were told, was more luxurious than anything that had before been known in these regions. We had many a laugh at our companions at table, and they at us, as we for- got to retain our forks, or were obliged to spread butter with a spoon, or use it for pie, the never-failing dessert. The captain came one day to explain to me why E had not been given another cabin, and offered her the "chain- room." E declined with thanks, saying, "a place re- served for storage and which no one else will accept ! I prefer to remain where I am, and have Mr. S inquire on my re- turn why his instructions have not been carried out, when men are being allowed rooms quite to themselves." After luncheon, we stopped to put off a couple of French mission- aries. They entered the compartments fore and aft of the tiny canoe, leaving the Indian guide and boatman to take the seat in the hole in the centre. Not a complaint did they utter as they squeezed into the tight-fitting box and were paddled towards the solitary and uninviting shore. Such bravery showed a noble spirit of self-sacrifice. As they heard the shouts of " Good luck to you," they waved a last adieu, and said, " We shall pray for you." Had a most interesting chat with the wife of Arch- deacon , who, although a great sufferer from seasickness and a martyr to neuralgia, is bravely returning for another seven years in the Arctic regions. She and her good hus- band first entered the country from the Canadian side in small boats over the lakes. This, which seems to the majorit}- so primitive a style of travelling, is, to them, by contrast, most luxurious. Their hearts are filled with love for the work they have attempted, and no discouragements are allowed to interfere with the anticipated glorious results. 62 Two Women in the Klondike At II P.M. we tied up to the bank for wood. Indians by the dozens lined the shore, but the light was not suffi- ciently strong for snap-shots. A white man came on board enveloped in a mosquito-shield (as was everyone else except the Indians). He was greatly surprised that we had Imt ninet\' passengers, instead of the expected two hundred. In answer to our question he said, " We call this Andreafsky, though Andreafsky is twenty miles beyond. We stopped here to build a boat which is to take us to Dawson, and the name of our camp is Black Foot." That explained the red flag with a black foot in the centre, which was flying under the American. One of the passengers asked for my decanter that he might fill it with pure water from the spring. It was deliciously cool. A brought me back a big bunch of ferns, bluebells, pink flowers resembling clover, and cotton- buds. Poor Ivan, whom he had taken for a run, returned almost frantic from the sting of mosquitoes and sand-flies, which had taken possession of his entire bodv. Sunday, July lotb. Have searched the Alaska Commercial Company's pam- phlet to glean some information about our stopping-place last night. It must have been Kollik, of which it tells us that "it is near the discharging point of the Aphoon mouth," and adds : " Here there is a rude Russian church, the store of an ancient Russian trader who dominates the place, and the drift-wood dwellings of a small settlement. The surroundings are characteristic of the entire delta — flat, rich soil which might support a nation, if in a kindlier clime, but which, frozen to within a short distance of the surface, produces nothing but thick grasses, and low scrub-willows, or other Arctic trees. Water-fowl flit in every direction, or chatter continually on the flats. Here, too, the traveller has the first experience of taking on wood for fuel. The Eskimo cut up and split the drift- logs, and pile them on the bank. Then, when the steamer hauls up at the landing, the natives, who compose a greater portion of the crew (not so on our sliip) bring on the wood We Hear the Si^rnal 63 as rapidly as their naturally sluggish natures can be spurred to work." Upon leaving the cabin this morning, late, I found that we were again " taking on wood," not that we needed it, but simply to prevent one of our rivals from obtaining it, and thereby overtaking us. The men were on shore with their rifles. The " cherub " brought back a very pretty tame fox TAKING ON WOOD ON THE YUKON. in a box. The women purchased the skins of muskrats and swans. Mr. A was the last one to return, with a beauti- ful bunch of wild roses. He was held up several times and robbed of one or two sprays, but finally handed the re- mainder to me, saying in his modest way, " Mind you don't cut your hands, as they 're full of thorns." The Doctor, who is an enthusiastic amateur photographer, was delighted at having been able to get a good light on the tomb of a princess, saying that the box containing her remains was 64 Two Women in the Klondike kept on top of the ground, while on a board were nailed the paddle of her canoe, her bracelets, hunting-knife, and many- trinkets of value. As we started off the Doctor escorted me to the upper deck, from which we had a magnificent view of this wonderful river. It was laughable to see poor Ivan stumbling up and tumbling down the steepest ladders in order to be always at my side. After luncheon we tied up again to the bank ; as the decks were completely covered with wood, and there was no wood-pile visible, everyone was on the qui vivc to know the cause of detention. Some said the boilers were being cleaned ; others, that the wheel was broken. No one seemed to know the truth, but here we have been for hours, tightly enveloped in nets, but still fight- ing mosquitoes. One of the passengers found the tracks of a bear on shore. Then there was a rush for shotguns and the men were soon working their way through the thick underbrush. They were obliged to give it up, however, and returned none too soon, with their faces and hands badly swollen. Those who had no rifles remained on top of the barge making napkin-rings and shelves for their cabins. 5 P.M. Moving once more, and all are uttering hearty thanks, as there are fewer mosquitoes away from the banks. The general opinion seems to be that some part of the ma- chinery needed repairing, but all queries meet the same re- ply, " don't know," while those uttering complaints against irregularities are called "kickers" ; consequent! j- many- things are submitted to without a murmur which should never be allowed to exist, and of which the owners would probably be very glad to receive information. Monday, July nth. No respect for Sunday is shown by a large number of pas- sengers. Last evening, after dinner, a dance was organised, J leading and calling out " the figgers. " The orchestra consisted of Mr. P with his violin, Colonel B , with his fiddle, and one of the waiters with a mandolin. The dancing being too tame to suit J , he shouted, " Here, give us some ginger ! we must have some ginger ! This We Hear the Signal 65 dancing ain't got no spice in it." We sat on deck and watched the glorious scenery until eleven. Scarcely had we retired to our cabins, when the assemblage adjourned to the top of the barge, which was very near our heads, and commenced a march to the accompaniment of songs and shouts. The poor Archdeacon and his wife, who had been sitting on deck with us during this desecration of the Sab- DRYINQ SALMON ON THE LOWER YUKON. bath, were most unhappy, but there was no one to whom to complain, so the dear lady, with " a splitting headache," was obliged to wait until the crowd disbanded. While dressing late this morning, the whistle blew and we saw a town in the distance, with a beautiful Russian church standing out prominently. We hastily finished our toilet and hurried on shore ; but no sooner had Ivan touched land than the native dogs came dashing from all directions, and 5 66 Two Women in the Klondike as they failed to run away at my shout of " Moosh ! " which onh^ evoked peals of laughter from the Indians, the poor beast, who was quite ready to whip every dog there, had to be sent on board without his exercise, as I did not wish the winner of twenty-two prizes to be debarred from further honours by disfigurement. Salmon was hung out to dry before every house, and all along the banks. A small boy of not more than three years of age was smoking a pipe. As I turned the Kodak in his direction he took the pipe from his mouth to refill it from the contents of the bag which he held in his hand. I motioned to the father that the pipe should be replaced in the child's mouth ; he understood the gesture, and an interesting group was taken, as the father had a tiny papoose in his arms. Mr. A kindly escorted me to the Russian church, but service was over, and we had not the time to photograph the interior. We climbed to the graveyard, but the mosquitoes were so ravenous and attacked us in such swarms, that we beat a hasty retreat, only stop- ping to gather a few flowers. At eleven we returned to the ship and as my English friend said we had been visiting "the most swagger place on the Yukon," I immediately read the following in regard to it from the pamphlet hereto- fore quoted : " Ikogimut, or the Russian Mission, as it is generally called. This mission has been established many years and is the principal station of the Greek Church in the northern portion of Alaska. The church itself is a picturesque struct- ure, and its services most interesting. This is a favourite place for picking up curios and small furs. The water in the river at this point has been sounded to a depth of four hundred and eighty feet, indicating that it flows through an ancient crater. Here, too, the birch-bark canoe of the up- river Indian begins to be seen in competition with the skin kayak of the Eskimo, for Paimut, about five hours' run up the stream from the Russian Mission, marks the dividing line between the Innuits and Ingaliks. The Eskimo and the Indians of the interior were, in former years, frequently at war, but it has been many j-ears since any great battles We Hear the Signal 67 were fought. Still, thej- occasionally shoot on sight, when hunting-parties chance to meet on the ranges." 4 P.M. Met two rowboats coming from Dawson. Their occupants shouted : " Turn back," — " Go the other way," — "Thousands waiting to get 'out.'" A river steamer approached heavily laden. Everj'one rushed to her cabin, hoping to be able to mail letters already prepared, but only friendlj' greetings were exchanged from a distance. Tuesday, July I2tli. Pandemonium let loose! Last night after a sunset so glorious that it surpassed all others, we retired as usual at eleven. At 2 A.M. we anchored, or rather tied up to the bank at Koserefsky. As we had read in the same pam- phlet, this " Holy Cross Mission is maintained by the Sisters of Saint Anne and the Jesuit Fathers. Here the voyager will be greatlj- interested in the gardening, which shows what may be done in the way of raising the hardier vegetables whenever an increasing population shall put Alaska to the test of its capacity for supporting life. Tur- nips, radishes, lettuce, potatoes, cabbages, and celery are grown with more or less success, and continuous experi- ments are made with different seeds. The work among the Indian children shows their wonderful capacity for receiving a certain measure of instruction, although as yet the moral results have not been all that the devoted missionaries have hoped for." We had been anticipating with great pleasure a visit to the church and the wonderful gardens, but, un- fortunately, the hour of arrival was not propitious, and we again sought repose in sleep. Alas ! that was impossible, for, having no oflBcer on the barge at night, the Indians were allowed to board her, and roam at will, not only on the nar- row ledge outside our windows, but to congregate in groups before our doors, or tramp through the hall, chattering like magpies. Then came the whistle from an approaching steamer, and we were soon aware that the long-expected Alice, from Dawson, was being secured to the barge. In a few moments many of her two hundred passengers 68 Two Women in the Klondike had landed on our decks, and were loudly calling for those whom they hoped to find on board. One or two of the most popular men were surrounded, and their conversation would have been of great interest at any other time. The same advice was reiterated on all sides — " Turn back. Don't go to Dawson. People are dj'ing there like rats in a trap." Only one man was affected sufficiently to follow this counsel, and his companions said that he was dreadfully homesick, and onlj' too glad of an excuse. It was nearlj- 4 a.m. when the Alice left and broad daylight, but we settled down to sleep, when the howling of the pack of dogs belonging to the purser reached our ears ; then came the opening of the pantry, preparations for breakfast, and another day had be- gun. On deck, the heat of the sun was inten.se, but I dis- covered a shady nook, and was quietly reading an Italian romance, when a voice said, " Wa'al, 3'ou do want to be ex- clusive, but I 'm goin' to stay, coz I kin git rid o' them pesk}' mosquitoes here ; they 're a-bleedin' me to death, an' I kiu truly sa^' that I fought an' bled my way to Dawson." 'T was the old fiddler. Then came other voices. " Mosquitoes ! Well, I should say ! they 've bitten me till I don't need no collar-button, for there 's plenty o' bumps in the right place, and as for K , why he has buttons all over his face. Never dreamed anything living could want ter tech him." After luncheon we stopped at another small village, the name of which it was impossible to learn, and there remained until five, leaving stores on shore. Mr. A escorted Ivan and me for a short walk, but the sun and mosquitoes soon drove us back ; we watched, with great concern and anxiety the purser bargaining for more dogs, and groaned as first one and then another was purchased and sent on board, where the howling and crying make such an agonising con- cert that the passengers would gladly have clubbed together and paid the higher price demanded farther up the river, ratlier than suffer night and day. Many of our passengers decided that the hot sun was conducive to laundry work. Even the dignified and pompous Q found a tub, and no laundress could have put more energy into the work, but his We Hear the Signal 69 indignation was great when be found that the Doctor had secured a fine picture of him at his novel employment. My English neighbour said that someone had offered to teach him how to wash his linen, that he had taken great interest in the lessons, but never succeeded in learning until the work was quite finished. The tramping on the roof of the barge has caused great annoyance to all those who were anxious to sleep before midnight, but we had made no complaint, and were not aware that the ladder had been taken away, until we were asked to sign a petition that it should be replaced, upon condition that all tramping overhead should cease at lo p.m. Shortly after, the roof was again covered with promenaders. Late this evening the Leah sounded a whistle which told us we were to stop ; so hasty preparations were made for a walk on shore, but no plank was put out, onl}- a man got off to inquire if the husband of Mrs. , one of our pas- sengers, was there. The story quickly went the rounds that, while she was on her way to meet him in Dawson, he, learning of her intention, had " skipped," and was " hurry- ing out." She had traced him to this little settlement, where lie had evaded her by three hours. As we wended our way to our cabins, we found them with great difEculty, the night being unusually dark. Lamps have been hung in the mess- hall, but the stewards say that the oil was forgotten, as well as soap and manj- other articles usually supplied ; we are thankful, however, at being safely carried thus far on our trip, but there are plenty of " kickers" who complain at getting so little for three hundred dollars. CHAPTER IX UP THE YUKON Wednesday, July 13th. DURING breakfast we stopped at another small settle- ment for wood, and again at lunch-time, when we had an opportunity to take a very short walk and to get a few photographs. The squaws all covered their heads at sight of a camera. We thought them bashful, but a young Indian girl explained: " Thej- want you to pay them for being allowed to take their pictures." At four, another stop, long enough for some of the passengers to have a swim in the Yukon, and for the camera fiends to obtain some good views; a delightful chat and tramp on shore with a new passenger, Mr. , who gave me most interesting information about Dawson. While reading after dinner, who should approach Init Colonel B , saying, " Do yer mind if I take one o' your nice easy cheers ? It looks so comfertable an' there ain't no one a-usin' it. My wife she 's got a nice rockin'-cheer in her cabin, made special for her; yer see she 's so fat an' so heavy she can't sit in no ordinary cheer. She weighs nigh onto three hundred pounds. You 'd oughter seen her when we was married, tho', — the slimmest thing yer ever sot eyes on." Thursday, July 14th. At two o'clock this morning, we tied up at Nulato, where we remained cleaning boilers, so we were told, until eleven. Before going on shore we read the following from the pam- phlet which has so often been referred to : "At Nulato, to which the Koyukuk River paj^s tribute, will be found another ancient Russian post, and a well-established Catholic Mis- 70 Up the Yukon 71 sion. In 1838, one Malakhof ascended the Yukon to Nu- lato, and there built a small blockhouse. He was forced to return to St. Michaels for supplies, however, and while he was gone, the Indians burned his post. In 1842, Lieutenant Zagoskin built a new fort at Nulato, and established relations with the Indians. Zagoskin was aided in his work by Derz- havin, one of the intrepid pathfinders who had set out with Glazanof in 1833, to penetrate the frozen wilds. He it was who was in command in 1851, when the since famous mas- sacre by the Koyukan Indians occurred — famous because in it Lieutenant Barnard of the English Nas-}', who was there with a party searching for the lost Sir John Franklin, was butchered with the rest. The Ko3'ukuk River, whence these fierce Indians came, has produced some gold, and the tales of the richness of its bars have spread far and wide among the Alaskan miners. The river is navigable for a long dis- tance, but the fact that the diggings are so far from its mouth has prevented their development on account of the difficulty in getting supplies to them. This will soon be obviated, and the Koyukuk will offer comparatively virgin ground for the prospector. The Alaska Commercial Company maintains a post at Nulato, and will be prepared to provide the necessary service on the Koyukuk." Westarted fora tramp with Ivan, but the native dogs, which dared not face him, set upon him in a pack when his back was turned, causing him to be ignominiouslj- sent on board. A large rowboat from the Koyukuk, containing two men and a woman wearing a sunbonnet, interested us greatly, and still more, when the latter told us that just around the bend, in a boat with a tent, was a Mr. N , partner of one of the men whom we have ' ' grub-staked ' ' and whose stories of his life on the Koyukuk were so thrilling that we were strongly tempted towards that river rather than to make the trip to Dawson. His nuggets were so large and so valuable, his plans so wonderful, that had it not been for fear of the Indians who we were told were verj' savage, we should have joined our man and his family on the small yacht which was being prepared in San Francisco. We had a short inter- 72 Two Women in the Klondike view with the partner, met a great number of men who had ' ' gone in ' ' with our man the previous year, and heard his story and learned of his daily life and what he had accom- plished up to the last moment of his departure for home to sell his mines. After dinner, we were comfortably ensconced in our easy chairs in the bow of the barge, admiring the scenery, which was still wonderfully beautiful, the air balmy and soft as that of springtime at Lenox, when someone wished aloud for an ice. E said, " Your wish can easily be granted, if you can get our freezer from down below." Up jumped J and two other men, and in a few moments the freezer was on deck, taken to the steward, who supplied the sugar, cream (tinned, of course), and extract, and half an hour later we indulged in the first ice-cream, according to all accounts, that had ever been served on the Yukon. Up the Yukon 7^ Many boats have passed us to-da}-, containing from two to eight miners returning home. Everyone shouts the same question, " How far ahead is the other steamer? " (meaning the one belonging to the Columbia Navigation Company, which started two daj-s before us.) Latest information is, that we are separated only by four hours, consequently we are wild to overtake her, and most impatient at any deten- tion. Just before retiring, J came to me and said, " I '11 give you ten dollars for your freezer." " It cost fifteen be- fore paying fifteen cents a pound freight," I replied. After some reflection he offered E twentj- dollars for her half, but she told him that he could not have it at any price. Friday, July 15th. E came in before I was dressed this morning, in a great state of indignation. " They 've taken Ivan away," she cried. " He was lying quietly on the deck at my side, when the steward approached and without saying so much as ' b}- your leave,' caught him by the collar, and dragged him — not led him, but dragged him — to the steamer, and chained him with the band of native dogs that make night and da}' hideous with their howls. ' B3' whose orders ? ' said I," E continued. " ' If j'ou want to know you can ask the purser,' he replied impertinentlv. ' I don't wish to ask the purser, but simplj- want a civil answer to a civil question.' ' Ask the captain, then,' said he ; ' the dog 's a d d nuisance.' I then told him that his language and behaviour were so disrespectful that he should be reported to Mr. S , whereupon he sneered, ' S , he 's got no- thing whatever to say of this part of the trip. I 'm in charge o' this barge, an' I '11 do as I please.' One of the passengers whispered to me, ' Bet you did n't give the steward five or ten dollars before you started, else you 'd never 'a' had this trouble.' I told him we always treated those who served us most generously, but not those who had earned nothing. Then X said, ' This steward 's not onto his job ' ; while B replied, ' He wants to get rich too fast, that 's what 's the matter with him.' " There was, however, no redress, 74 Two Women in the Klondike and we were glad to have our attention diverted bj' the boat's stopping at Novikakat. The pamphlet was brought into requisition, and I read the following : " Here, there is an old-time Russian trader named Korkorin, now en- gaged with the Alaska Commercial Company. He has reminiscences of the day when the yearly trip was made to St. Michaels to meet the lone vessel of the Russian American Company, of the feasts of that holidaj- time, and of the struggle against famine during many winters. There has been some prospecting in the streams about Novikakat, but the results are as 3'et indefinite." On shore we went, but failed to find Korkorin at his post. E stopped at an Indian tent, where she had just con- cluded the purchase of a lot of marten skins at four dollars each, when one of our passengers entered, and, being a half- breed, engaged in a fluent conversation with the proprietor in the native tongue, which E ■, consequently, was un- able to understand, so was filled with astonishment when informed that the skins were not for sale. Shortly after- wards a relative of the Indian maiden came on board, with the skins of which E had been deprived. My time on shore was spent in gathering wild pink roses, with which to decorate the dinner-table, and quantities of a flower the colour of heather, but with very long stems. I have omitted to say that at the preceding stopping-place we found groundsel growing wild, and many were the offerings to the only canary on board, who appreciated it immensely. We sat in our easy chairs in the bow of the boat enjoying the marvellous scenery, and the freedom from gnats and mos- quitoes which here are replaced by enormous horse-flies. Tales were being related of the different passengers who were anxious to be grub-staked, and Mr. R said, " Wo- men are certainly incomprehensible. Let a man go to them as a gentleman, and offer them fine claims ! Do you think they will listen to him ? No ! they suspect a swindle every time ; but he has only to pose as a rough miner to be at once believed, and to fill their souls with confidence." Towards evening, the Maivarct, belonging to the Alaska Up the Yukon /o Cotnniercial Company, was seen 001111112: toward us, and ex- citement was rife as she tied up alongside. The usual rush was made for letters to send home. Instead of asking us for war news, her passengers told us that papers of the 29th had alread}' reached Dawson from " over the Pass," bring- ing tidings that although we had captured Havana, Hobson and his brave men had been shot, and two of our ships lost. RAFT ON THE YUKON. They also warned us to turn back, as had all those in the small boats passed during the day ; but such advice only creates laughter, as the constant repetition seems ridiculous to those who have more than half finished so long a journey. We lost but one of our passengers. The Indian maiden who had interrupted E 's purchase of furs, being on her way to Dawson to meet her sister, found that she was on the A/aj-garei, " going out," sober gripsack was quickly packed, and she departed. The Margaret was crowded to that de- 76 Two Women in the Klondike gree that men were sleeping on tables, under tables, and even on the cords of wood on deck, and they informed us that, as there are still thousands waiting to " go out," there was little chance for newcomers to secure transportation down the Yukon. Before reaching the Margaret we had a pilot who had landed us on sand-bars twice during the day, so we speedily exchanged him for the one who had brought this craft safely down the river. Saturday, July l6th. If the scenery j-esterday was grand, what can be said of that through which we have been passing to-day ? Mount- ains, and relay's of mountains, narrow gorges, rapids, all that is most wild and picturesque ! We had been too rapt in ad- miration even to read, but, as there must be ever a slight blot on all that is beautiful, so this scene was partially marred by the gradual approach of a heavy fog, as we thought it, until the air became laden with smoke, and, as night came on, we saw that the mountains on all sides were on fire. Truly a gorgeous sight, which would have been still more brilliant had it not been for the ball of fire that hung in the west, making all else insignificant b_v compar- ison. All day we had steamed without stopping. At last in the distance we beheld great stacks of wood piled high on the shore, so all made preparations for a short tramp, until the captain shouted, " How much for the wood ? " " Fifteen dollars a cord," was the replj-. " Keep it," — and on we went. Just bej-ond, another lot was plainly visible, but for that seventeen dollars a cord was asked ; at the third place, twenty, which caused the passengers to discuss the likeli- hood of being called on to fell trees, in order that the Alaska Commercial Company should not be obliged to pay such ex- orbitant prices. At last. Fort Adams was in sight, and as we had read of the " Episcopal church and Mission," where the :hildren of the school were " particularly proficient," and that there was also " a trading post and something in the wa>- of gardening," we were looking forward to an interesting half- hour, only to be disappointed, as no one was allowed to land. Up the Yukon n We also passed in the night, without seeing, " Tanana or Niikhikyets — an important trading post, for here there comes into the Yukon, from one side, the trade of the Tozikakat River, and from the other, that of the great Tanana. The Tanana drains the country lying between the Copper River and the Yukon, as far south as the White River. It is ex- pected that the countr}^ about the head waters will prove one of the richest in all the land, when once it has been prospected. Little is known, however, of the river, and the Indians who guard its treasures are inclined to be hostile. However, at Tanana, there is an interesting store and an enormous turnip patch, which latter indicates that could all men live after the famous recommendation of Colonel Sellers on ' turnips and water,' there need be no starvation in the land. The store is operated for the Alaska Commercial Company by A M , once a circus man, but who has been in Alaska for thirtj- years. Here, the Indians, from as far as the sources of the Tanana, come to exchange their fish, and furs for powder, lead, and some of the edible comforts of civilisation." After dinner there was a concert in the mess-hall of the barge — music-box, graphophone, violins, etc., — but although we heard at intervals the clapping of many hands, the grand- eur of the scenery kept us spellbound to the deck. " I 'd just like to catch him at it," growled a voice near us. " Me too ! I would n't give him time to say his prayers ! \Vh}', that 's the lowest kind o' stealing, to take our champagne when it 's all we 've got and no more to be had for love or money. How do you s'pose he managed to smuggle them out o' the cabin ? " — " Oh, did it when everybody else was on shore." — " Yes, but where has he hid the stuff? I move we have a general search made." — " How many bottles did he take ? " — " Why, eight ; we had four the other night be- tween us, out o' the dozen. Pit}' we had n't drunk 'em all; and now here 's R had six pairs o' muck-a-lucks stolen right out of his bag, and no trace of them or of the thief. If you leave a paper or magazine on the table you may bet your life you '11 never see it again, but what 's the use o' 78 Two Women in the Klondike complainin' ? nobody pajs the least attention to it." This recalled to me that E 's fountain-pen had been taken from her cabin, and that the thief must have had abundance of time, as he had stopped to fill it ; while my bag, which was in the mess-hall with three locked straps on it, had been cut down the side and the articles extracted therefrom. I had sent the purser a note calling his attention to the fact, but not a word did he condescend to give in reply, although my cabin-boy had orders to wait for an answer. We remained on deck until eleven, hoping to catch a glimpse of Rampart City, but found that we were not to make that settlement until 2 a.m. We might just as well have remained up, for when we did get there sleep was im- possible. One of the passengers had brought out some whiskej', and was treating the crowd in the hall before our door. Such a babel of voices ! And we were told the fol- lowing day that the supply of whiskey in Rampart having given out, her citizens were offering our passengers nine dollars a bottle. W^e breathed a sigh of relief as the whistle blew, the men rushed for shore, and we slowly steamed away ; then came the howling and yelping of the dogs, which lasted until drowned by the clattering of dishes and preparations for breakfast. Sunday, July 17th. Women in the dining-room sewing ; men on deck with rifles, waiting for something at which to shoot ! At ten, we stopped at a bank where there was a coal sign. The usual question was a.sked, and as this fuel cost only ten dollars a ton we took on board a goodly quantity of stuff which looked like black dust. We were told that this condition was due to the coal's having been frozen, so that it could not be ex- tracted in large bits. Poor Ivan was let loose from the ter- rible heat of the engine-room and the howling of the other dogs, which is so racking to the nerves that we now fear his good habits may be spoiled and his training prove non- efl"ective by association with these " Siwash " mongrels. To think that sixty dollars was the price paid for such quarters and companionship just from St. Michaels to Daw- Up the Yukon 79 son, and we supply the dog's food ! How we longed for Sunday- peace and quiet after such a night, but it was not to be. Scarcely' were we again on our way when our ears were pierced by the rasping noise of a badly played violin, which had to be endured until the bell rang for luncheon. Later in the day, the sky grew dark, then leaden coloured. A storm was brewing. Nervous women, terrified at the thought of a thunder-storm amidst the mountains, flocked into the dining-room like a herd of sheep — only to be to- gether. The scene soon became one of most imposing grand- eur, in which I revelled, seated alone in the bow of the boat, well protected bj- cap and mackintosh, as the rain came down in torrents. I was roused by hearing in coarse tones, — " Wa'al, I 've often heern tell on people what did n't know enuff to come in when it rained, but I never seen one afore, an' detarmined to sit out in such a downpour. Why, she '11 have rheumatiz sure as fate." Another approached, say- ing, " Mrs. H , if 3-ou don't come in from that there rain, we '11 have to kerr}- you in, cheer an' all," and so were my thoughts brought down from the sublime and magnificent. Shortly after, the Doctor came to ask if I would not like to meet and talk with the famous Hank S , saying, " You don't want me to bring him out here in the rain, so let us all sit inside." Following the Doctor, I soon came face to face with the new passenger, one of the noted miners of this part of the world, who, having passed eight years in Alaska, had left Dawson onl}' eight days previously, consequently, his conversation was of intense interest ; but he gave us the same advice as we have heretofore received from all others : " Better turn back, even at this late daj-, for typhoid fever and malaria are raging. Even those on the hill are not free from what mav soon become an epidemic, and there are not steamers enough to transport those waiting to leave. Unless this exorbitant Canadian royalty be soon repealed, there will be no more mines worked, as even the richest claim-owners are unwilling to paj^ ten per cent, to such extortionists." Mr. S then showed us the beautiful big nugget he had 8o Two Women in the Klondike first panned out, a ring made from gold taken from one of his claims, and told of the man who had first grub-staked him, to whom he was able to send twelve thousand dollars in ninety days. But grub-staking is rarely so profitable, for many tales do we hear of these men who, after striking it rich, forget those who have assisted them in time of need, sell their claims, carrying the result where it cannot be reached by the rightful owner, who, according to miners' laws and agreements, is entitled to one-half. " Have you seen Rampart ? " he asked. " No ; what does the pamphlet say about it ? " E inquired, and I read the following : ' ' Then come the Lower Ramparts, where the water goes furiou.sly between great walls rivalling in picturesqueness the famed Palisades of the Hudson. During the highest freshets, the current is said to attain a speed of eleven knots in the rapids. But the ingoing miner will be most interested in Rampart City, near the mouth of Big Minook Creek, be- cause this new city is the commercial centre of the Minook Mining District, where will be found the first definite mining as yet encountered on the journey. Here is a bustling town grown up around the big new store and warehouse of the Alaska Commercial Company. From this, the miners carry their supplies in all directions to the claims on Little Mi- nook, Hunter, Alder, and the many ether gold-bearing creeks in the neighbourhood. They are always certain of a plentiful food supply, there being none of the bars to navigation below Minook which make the later trips so uncertain on the upper river. On account of the numbers who have settled at Rampart City, the entire country round about will undoubtedly be thoroughly prospected. Expeditions across the Divide, into the Koyukuk head waters have been planned, and it is quite probable that Rampart City will become the point of supply for Koyukuk mines." What a pity that we were unable to visit so thriv- ing a place, but we 'U do it on our return trip. At each point we rounded, we gazed longingly for Fort Hamlin, of which we had been reading from the same au- thority; "It is the next important post. Here are large Up the Yukon warehouses of the Alaska Commercial Company. These are generally filled with stores, waiting to be forwarded to the different mining-camps." Towards ten o'clock a turn in the river showed Fort Hamlin directly before us, and a small steamer tied to a tree. We prepared for the anticipated tramp, but to our keen disappointment there was no wood to be had, so on we went, after having " slowed up" long enough to talk with the captain of the I'idoria. The ru- mour was that she had come to assist in towing our barge over the Yukon Flats, but we went on without her. CHAPTER X DISCOMFORT OF BARGE LIFE Mondaj-, July iSth. LAST night on reaching my cabin, mattress and pillow were wet with the rain that had leaked in, but having learned the lesson that " kickers " are treated with contempt and discourtes}% the only thing to be done was to bear it un- complainingly, and roll up in blankets with a life-preserver for a pillow. Wakened at 5 a.m. by the Victoria bumping against the barge, men running along the ledge before the windows, and directions being shouted to make fast along- side ; then followed the awful howling of the dogs ; then preparations for breakfast, and no chance to sleep for another eighteen hours at least. From overhead we heard shouts of " Moose " and " Bear." Men called excitedly to others to get their rifles, as the animals were swimming across the river, but nothing came within reach. After breakfast we looked for the J'idoria, which was nowhere in sight. One of the passengers informed us that her captain had let go the bow-line instead of the stern, when the current caught her, threw her against our ropes and broke her paddle-wheel, so that she had been obliged to lay up for repairs. In tying up at the next wood-pile, our barge was detached from the Leah, many of whose passengers were visiting us ; a plank was thrown across but it was so narrow that they did not dare to cross, and so were prisoners for luncheon. At our next stopping-place we were met by two men from Halifax, who had spent eight days in Dawson, had had enough, and were on their return trip. They managed to S2 84 Two Women in the Klondike live by chopping wood for river steamers wherever they hap- pened to camp for the night and received from our purser fifteen dollars a cord. A general " kick " was inaugurated when the steward announced dinner at half-past four this afternoon, the men saying that the hour had been constantly advanced since leaving St. Michaels, until now, b\- having the last meal so early, they are forced into paying for sup- pers and feeing the boys for extra work. Another wrong was also righted after a fashion, this evening. During the entire trip, men have been complaining from time to time that their cargo was being ruined. Notwithstanding this, matters were left without investigation, until one of the captain's favourites went down to procure some articles from her trunk. She returned most unhappy over its condition and must have gone at once to him, for scarcely had we finished dinner, when he accompanied her to the hatchwaj-, had it opened, sent some of his men down and had all trunks brought on deck. Up they came, covered with mould, then wet mattresses, and small tents mildewed ; the passengers on all sides looked on, groaning, "What a shame!" ' ' D d outrage ! " " Our goods packed where they can be ruined and the Company's goods nicely stored in high, dry space on the steamer!" However, we are lucky to have our boxes up, even though our stores are still in the dampness ; and we are told that our beautiful new tent is not fit to be seen. Tuesday, July 19th. A very quiet day ! Scarcely anything to record except stopping at 10 a.m. to take on six cords of wood, where, un- fortunately, the banks were so steep and the woods so filled with mosquitoes, that few of us were able to land, and were thankful to get away from the heat, for there is always a pleasant breeze while travelling on the Yukon, no matter how intense the rays of the sun. At 4 p.m. another hour at a wood-pile, but the drift-wood was so thick along the banks, that one walked with diflSculty, as it cracked and broke under the feet at each step. The protest against early dinner has had its effect, and the bell was not rinig until after five. Discomfort of Barge Life 85 The nights are deliciously cool. Hardh- do we finish dinner, before an icy breath passes through the air and robes and wraps are in demand. Not a star has been visible in the heavens since we left St. Michaels, and to- night as we sat in our little corner of the barge peacefully discussing that and other astronomical subjects, we were startled bj- an unusual invasion of mosquitoes, which at- tacked so ferociously- that even our shields afforded little pro- tection, and we were driven to our cabins, there to wage war until 5 A.M., when the attack suddenly ceased. We fell into a delicious sleep, which lasted about fifteen minutes, then chairs were dragged horn under the tables, and the stewards, who were sweeping the dining-room, engaged in loud con- versation. Groans were heard on all sides, and when the bell rang calling passengers to breakfast they would gladly have had quiet and sleep in preference to all the delicacies of the season. Wednesday, July 20th. We are all indignant this morning. The Sovereign passed us at six o'clock and here we are three hours later, tied up again to the bank, and have been for the last hour and no- body knows the reason why, although questions have been freely asked. We are chafing under the detention. 9.30. The llctoria, having repaired damages, has now overtaken us and is alongside ready to assist in towing. Predictions are rife that she will bring us bad luck. We are now in the Yukon Flats, of which our guide-book says : " These extend from Fort Hamlin clear to Circle Citj-, a distance of about four hundred miles. The river widens and the water flows in many channels, between number- less islands ; undoubtedly there was once a great lake in the basin, larger than anj' lake of to-day. At the Ram- parts there probably was a fall greater than Niagara, be- fore the water cut its way through the mountains, and drained the lake into the sea. After the waters subsided the flats became the home of the mastodon, the fossil remains and ivory tusks of this great animal being found here in profuision, especially on Mammoth Island, which seems to 86 Two Women in the Klondike have been a bun'ing-place for them. Indian stories come drifting along occasionally to the effect that some of these monsters are still alive in the comparatively unexplored territory around the head waters of Copper River, but the yarns are probably as apocryphal as that about Alexander Badlam's side-hill bear which had the legs on one side of the body ' longer than they really ought to be.' " Into the Yukon Flats empty the Porcupine River, Birch Creek and other streams, and in its course through them the Yukon touches its most northern point, an elbow sticking up into the confines of the Arctic Circle. Here, just at the point of the elbow is Fort Yukon, and there Russian domin- ance gave way in the early days to English sway. Old Fort Yukon was established b}' the Hudson Bay Company, its agents coming over from the Mackenzie by way of the Porcupine, and establishing their post near the point where the northern river entered the Yukon. A few traces of the old fort remain a short distance from the newer settlement. Here the English Compan}' introduced its ' huskies ' in place of the wolf-dog of the Eskimo and carried on an ex- tensive fur trade until it was found that the English had no right to the country. All supplies came in, and all ship- ments went out b)' the Porcupine, the Mackenzie, and the great Canadian lakes. In this way Fort Yukon became one of the most remote outposts of the white man. At present, there is comparati\-eIy little business transacted there, though there is an Episcopal mission and school, and quite a settlement of Fort Yukon Indians. At Fort Yukon, the traveller is well within the land ot the midnight sun, for here at midnight a photograph was taken of great game, killed by the light of the same unquenching orb. Here, too, in dead of winter, the aurora borealis makes its most gorgeous displays when ' the northern lights come down o' nights to dance with the houseless snow.' " Thursday, July 2lst. After having read and copied the foregoing in regard to Fort Yukon, we passed without running in, but congratu- Discomfort of Barge Life 87 lated ourselves, as we saw the Sovci-cigu not far ahead, that plans were being made to overtake her. To our great dis- gust, however, we were soon tied up to another wood-pile where we remained until midnight, groaning and suffering under attacks of myriads and myriads of ravenous mosquitoes and vicious gnats. Some of the passengers assisted in pre- parations for arranging two new rudders, without which the captain dared go no farther into the Flats. A short walk on shore through the driftwood and dead branches resulted in a torn skirt and defaced shoes, only compensated for by a few new photographs. After dinner E and I were joined on deck by a pleasant parly. " What was all the noise last night?" said R . "Is it possible that anybodj- on board could have slept through it ? " replied D . " Why, the Victoria overtook us, and as she has no cage to protect us from the cinders, they fell in a shower over the top of the barge and set fire to it several times, so that some of the boys had to stay up there with buckets of water. Poor Mrs. H lost her beau- tiful new hammock-chair, which went up in a blaze, P and several other fellows had their coats burned, and I guess it is going to do some damage to us now," said he, .springing up as the wind changed and a shower of cinders covered us. The gale became stronger, the sky so black that it seemed as though a terrible typhoon was approaching. We sought refuge in the dining-hall where manj- of the passengers were plaj-ing whist, cribbage, and muggins. The stewards, cabin-boys, and cook were seated familiarly at the same table, and, notwithstanding the signs of " No smoking," which are posted in different parts of the mess-room, cigars, cigarettes, and pipes were being freelj^ used, the odour of bad tobacco filling this, the only sitting-room, and penetrat- ing through the lattice-work into the cabins on either side. Friday, July 22nd. Awakened this morning by the J'^idoria s hem^ changed and tied up outside of our cabin window, shutting off light and air, and we were obliged to make it Still darker by 88 Two Women in the Klondike drawing the curtains, as there were men on her decks, con- versing in loud tones. To the usual slamming of chairs and dishes, loud whistling was added, until the noise became deafening. From eleven till two we were tied up to the banks. At noon, to the anger and disgust of all the passengers, tXieJohn C. Ban; of the North American Trans- portation Company, passed us, those on board waving hand- kerchiefs and hats, hurrahing, hurling shouts of derision, calling that they would wait for us in Dawson, etc. Then the " kicking " from our passengers began, and these ex- pressions were heard: " What did they tell us in San Fran- cisco ? That we should be the first ones to arrive ! that no other company would be able to keep such a promise. Oh, no ! and here we are, sent on a steamer towing a heavy barge, crawling at a snail's pace, so as to carry in the Com- pany's freight. Last night we was within thirty-five miles of Circle City and here we are, nearly eighteen hours after, tied up at a wood-pile, with still ten miles to make and everything on the river passin' us. Oh ! we 're in luck, we are ! The Sovereign, the Monarch, and the Barr all ahead of us, their passengers to get the good claims, the best cabins, the best of everj'thing, while we who paid extra for just such luck are left here to kick our heels on the bank ! " Such an unhappy lot ! We had half an hour's tramp on shore, where we were surprised at being able to gather mulberries, currants, and raspberries, which grew wild. W^e had an inter\'iew with Rip Van Winkle's double, who has lived here some years raising turnips, radishes, lettuce, and carrying them over the trail to Circle City. He was doing well until the river rose and carried away his entire garden. What a delicious luncheon we had ! — fresh radishes and sweet potatoes, which never before had we properly appreciated. At 4.30 p.m. we reached Circle City, and were delighted to see Xhejohn Barr tied to the banks, but alas ! she pushed off even as we ar- rived and her passengers .shouted, " We will deliver our own messages in Dawson, thank you, and will not trouble you, who have tarried so long by the way, to give them." The Discomfort of Barge Life 89 plank was soon out, and here some half-dozen passengers left us to tempt fortune in a strange land. The French girl who had informed us that she was to be married on arrival, as her fiance had sent for her, had basely deceived us if a newcomer was to be believed, who said that she had been sent for to be their cook at one hundred dollars a month. We were greatly astonished at the size of Circle City. We went first to the post-ofiice, simply to see it, expecting nothing and receiving nothing. We concluded afterwards to post our letters home from there, although told that they would go more quickly via Dawson and the Pass ; still, we wanted the Circle City stamp on the envelope, for who can tell how much longer the town may exist. The Doctor overtook us, and presented the famous pioneer, Mr. M , who has been thirty-five years in Alaska, and has a hand- some Indian wife. He informed us that, although Dawson has a population of from ten to fortj- thousand. Circle City contains more houses, and is much healthier, as the former is in a frightful sanitary condition. We peeped into the dance-hall, and were told of an entertainment that had taken place the previous night which, in the words of our in- formant, " even the nicest people from the other steamer attended, and thej' did n't put on no airs, but followed the rule of the mining-camp, and danced with every fellow what asked 'em. They don't ask nothing to go in, but you have to order a drink fer each girl you dance with, and every drink costs a dollar." We also peeped into a couple of restaurants, saw fine-looking bread at twenty-five cents a loaf, pies fifty cents each, clam-chowder fifty cents, and the tables covered with daintj' white linen. In the midst of in- vestigations which we were highly enjoying the dinner-bell called us back to the barge. There was the usual grum- bling, — " Why could n't they have postponed it a little while ? " etc. We were stopped by Mr. P , who intro- duced to us a man of about thirty years of age. " Have you been here long ? " I questioned. " Why, I 'm the Mayor," he replied ; " and this is my fourth year at Circle." A second ringing of the bell reminded us that we were keep- 90 Two Women in the Klondike ing the stewards waiting, and that it was already after five, so we joined the crowd who were all going on board under protest. After dinner we were grieved at being obliged to say farewell to Mr. S , one of the most popular of our passengers. May good luck attend him ! His hand was shaken again and again by those who were sad indeed to leave him behind, and his loss will be mourned by more than one. We had two new and entertaining arrivals who contradicted many of the stories we had heard of Dawson. In fact, all stories in this part of the world seem to be told but to be contradicted. According to the newcomers, Dawson is exceedingly health}-, prices are very low — bacon only twent}' cents a pound, whereas we are paying fifteen cents a pound freight, while this, added to original price and dutj' to be paid, would prove it wiser to start empty- handed and purchase provisions at the journey's end. An- other new passenger who has a dozen claims in Circle as well as in Dawson, said; " I 've concluded to let others work 'em, while I take a job on a steamer at five dollars a day. I kin save money bj- it, for when I 'm on shore I kin never let whiskey alone ; wh}- I spend as high as a hundred dollars a day for it." Our pigeons have attracted great attention, and we have received many fine offers for them, but prefer ' ' squabs on toast." The man who wants the ice-cream freezer has gradually increased his bid, which now stands at eighty dol- lars, as he has heard he can get ten dollars a glass for ice- cream ! CHAPTER XI NEARIXG OUR DESTINATION Saturday, July 23rd. OUR guide-book tells us that " the camp called Circle City was founded in the autumn of 1894. Up to the time of the discoveries on the Klondike, this was the wonder city of the north. The mines on Birch Creek and its tribut- aries proved to be so easily worked that two thousand peo- ple from all over the world flocked to the new camp. Four miles of cabins soon extended along the river, in the centre of which line of habitations was the Alaska Commercial Company's commodious post. In this new settlement ' the games never closed.' Here were theatres, restaurants, stores, saloons, — in short, a cit}-. The miners made and executed their own laws. Theft, murder, and outrages upon the per- son were practically unknown. Fortunes in gold could be left for a year in an unlocked cabin, and none would come to break in and steal. The success of this miners' govern- ment at Circle City is one of the most notable examples fur- nished by history of the ability of the people to govern themselves. Though the rush to Dawson in 1896-97 almost depopulated Circle, much gold is known to remain in the Birch Creek diggings, which are some fifty-two miles away, but reached by a good horse trail. The camp will undoubt- edly make a large output of gold for years to come. ' ' Bush- rod Washington James says of it iu 1897 : " Circle City is a considerable town of about two thousand inhabitants when the}- are at home, but subject to variation of population. Many fine placer mines surround this really important city, but the rage for the Klondike gold-fields has for the time 9' 9- Two Women in the Klondike almost depopulated the comfortable log houses of which the town is built." How thankful we were to leave behind us the Victoria which had caused loss to so many of our passengers ! For the first time we were able to sleep soundly from midnight until 6 A.M., when awakened as usual bj' the stewards. The tables are never lifted, but always dragged across the wooden floor to the accompaniment of loud conversation. No plate is ever laid on the table, but dropped as though to see from how great a height it maj' be done without breaking, and some are either growing to be very expert at the game, or else the dishes are of unusual strength. While writing this morning it suddenly grew very dark, and E said, " A rain-storm, probably," but as she glanced out of the window exclaimed that the darkness was caused by the immense height of the mountains, that seemed almost near enough to touch. The scenery is growing more wild and attractive. Someone has been, and still is, dancing a hornpipe over head with such force that the boards above bend with each emphatic kick, which causes me to regret having signed the petition requesting that the confiscated ladder might be re- placed ; but, thank the Lord, Dawson is only three hundred miles distant, and this tedious fight against the seven-miles an-hour current of the Yukon will soon be ended. If we had only dared cross the Pass " going in," taking this means of leaving the countr\-, we should have had this tremendous current aiding us the entire waj-. The day has been passed in silent admiration of the grandeur of the mountainous sceners- — chain upon chain of rocks crowned with trees, which seem to be growing from the solid stone, and down the sides to the water's edge, with never a sign of earth to support the roots. Smoke on all sides fills the air, as camp-fires are built and not extinguished, and the flames slowly climb the mountain-side, destroying the much-needed wood, and spoiling the picture otherwise so beautiful. Sunday, Julj- 24th. So chillv to-dav that shirt-waists have been discarded for Nearing our Destination 93 thicker garments and wraps, and few can remain out of doors. The mess-hall is filled with card-players. The missionaries and those devoutly inclined shut themselves in their cabins, but that does not prevent them from hearing all that takes place in the universal sitting-room. Before luncheon a great shout went up, followed by shrieks, hur- rahs, cat-calls, " We '11 meet you in Dawson." Looking through the cabin-window, I saw the /o/;;; ii'tf/v- replenishing with wood, and the cheers of our passengers meant that we were slowly but surely leaving her behind. " Don't you be so cocky," they called ; " wait until you need wood again, and then our turn will come. ' ' 4.30. The shrieks are recommencing, which announce to those below that the/o/m Barr is again passing us. Shouts of triumph from her passengers and of despair from ours are wafted on the air. Now the Leah blows her whittle, and we are off again, probably for an exciting race, should the channel prove sufficiently wide. Monday, July 25th. The exciting event to-day was " crossing the line." We were at dinner when someone called out, " We 're just going into a foreign land." J left the table, and opened his cabin door, so that we who were seated opposite could obtain a fine view of the termination of the possessions of the United States and of the entrance to the Dominion of Canada. Ogilvie, in his most interesting and useful guide-book, tells us that " the river here is somewhat contracted, measuring only one thousand two hundred and eighty feet across in the winter : but in summer, at ordinary water level, it would be about one hundred feet wider. Immediately below the boundar}', it expands to its usual width, which is about two thousand feet." vSeveral bouquets which had been gathered in the vicin- ity of the different landing-places were brought to me during the day. We were greatly surprised to find flowers growing in such abundance. We are becoming so weary of this never-ending voyage that we have been asking con- cerning the difficulties of the Pass, so, after dinner, Mr. P — ■ — - 94 Two Women in the Klondike came with maps and plans in order to explain to us all the dangers in store for those willing to attempt such an under- taking. Notwithstanding, both E and I are longing to see the other part of the country, and are carefully weighing the pros and cons, hoping to find that we can try the trail without imprudence or risk. SALTING THE PAN. Tuesday, July 25th. We are now approaching " Forty Mile," of which Ogilvie says : " Forty Mile River is the only river in the district on which, up to the fall of 1888, coarse gold had been found, and it may be said that much of it can hardly claim that dis- tinctive title. The largest nugget found was worth about thirt3^-nine dollars. It was lost on the body of a miner who was drowned at the caiion. Several other nuggets of much less value have been found, but the number of pieces which one could call ' nugget ' are few. The miners term Forty Nearine our Destination 95 Mile a ' bed-rock ' creek — that is, one in the bed of which there is httle or no drift, or detrital matter, the bottom of the river being bed-rock. In nianj- places this rock has been scraped with knives by the miners, in order to gather the small amount of detritus, and its accompanying gold. Very little of the gold on this creek was found in Canadian terri- A LESSON IN PANNING OUT GOLD. tory, the coarsest gold being found well up the river. In the town of Fort}- Mile, close up to the Yukon, potatoes, radi.shes, cabbages, turnips, and lettuce have been grown with fair success, especiallj- the last-named. Another garden in a fairly situated, well-sheltered spot at Cudahy yielded fair radishes, turnips, cabbage, and lettuce. Ver}- fair pota- toes were grown on an island at the mouth of the Sixtj- Mile in the Yukon, by Mr. H . He had also a garden at Sel- kirk, ill which he planted potatoes for several years, but to protect them from frost went to the expense of having an 96 Two Women in the Klondike immense awning made of heavy cotton which he lowered on them every clear night when frost threatened. Without this they would not have ripened. Oats have been sown at Forty Mile for several years, but never ripen, though they develop enough to make fair fodder." Facing us, and to the right as we approach, is Forty Mile. Nestling on the edge of the water, at the foot of high hills backed by the mountains, lie Forts Cudahy and Constantine. At the right are two small houses, a few warehouses, a flag- pole with a red flag flying, and nine one-story houses. Be- yond is the mission where Bishop lived and worked for many years. Quite a number of passengers left us at Forty Mile. Others started for a tramp and we waved adieu to them as the Leah steamed across the river for wood. After luncheon, Mr. L , of Circle Citj-, asked if I would like to pan out some gold, as the ground in the vicinity looked rich. No second invitation was needed — my pan was in my hand and went with me on shore in less time than it has taken to write this. Mr. L • brought a shovel and helped dig, then showed me how to wash the gravel, which I did with great impatience, shouting with excitement as the colours began to show, until, in a few moments, pas- sengers and stewards had joined us with their pans. The result of my first work was between fifty cents and one dollar to the pan, and L told me to stake off the ground at once, and record the claim. Of course there were the usual remarks about someone having salted it, but that did not deter others from digging with a will in this lucky hole, offering to give me a percentage of whatever they found for permission to do so. The whistle blew, calling us on board, and back we went to Forty Mile to pick up our stranded passengers. They brought us the following war-news which they had gathered on shore; that Spain's navy had been completely wiped out ; that the Oregon had chased and sunk Spain's last ship, but that in capturing Santiago we had lost eighteen hundred men ; that " Teddy's" Rough Riders had received worse treatment than those in any other regiment; also that Admiral Cervera had been caught and held as Nearing our Destination 97 hostage for Hobson, who had not been shot as according to former report. Mr. L presented us with a couple of oranges, the first seen since leaving St. Michaels. " Oh, my ! ' ' said a woman to E , ' ' do jou know that them there oranges is worth fifty cents apiece ? it 's like eatin' so much mone^-. How kin you do it ? " The old fiddler soon joined us and entertained us with his ■'S FIRST PAN. stories. " Wa'al," said he, finally, " I reckon we won't have any worse times at Dawson than we 've seed ter hum. I tol' my wife, sez I, ' if we live much longer we may spend all our money an' then we 'd have ter inconvenience some people in takin' care o' us, an' tho' I 'm nearly eighty, I 'm goin' to that country where there 's gold to be had for the diggin', or where I kin turn my hand to something ' ; an' so she sez, sez she, ' I 'U come along, too.' Yer know she came 98 Two Women in the Klondike to me without a change o' clothing when she runned away from home. I 've larned her everything she knows, an' give her a prettj^ good home in the bargain; so she sez, ' I '11 Stan' by you,' and just packed up and brought our two servant-girls what 's been with us so long we could n't leave 'em behind. Dunno what we '11 do in Dawson, but like 's not we '11 run a small hotel." — " American style ? " — " You bet your life. None o' your French cookin' for me. Wh}', durn it, when they begin by puttin' a plate o' soup before me an' nothin' else, I jest begin by crumblin' crackers and bread an' everj'thiiig I kin reach into it, till I 've made such a heart}' mess that I ain't got no appetite for nothin' else. I 'm glad you 've got my picter with the fiddle, coz I think more o' that fiddle than a baby. I got a flannel night-dress for it, au' two or three silk dresses." ..f?*0. ?.-*r CHAPTER XII THE PROMISED I,AND Wednesday, July 27th. WE made such fast time during the night, that we are now nearing Dawson at a rapid rate and find the scenery on all sides far grander than we had anticipated. Here is Dawson at last ! No pictures we have seen, no de- scriptions we have read or heard, compare with the reality. Those who were here last year tell us that it has grown at lea.st one hundred per cent. The three long wharves are so packed with people that we expect to see them precipitated into the water by the addition of a feather's weight. Miles and miles of tents of all sizes and descriptions fill the town, and are pitched everywhere on the hillside. Skeletons of many warehouses which are being constructed and a few log cabins are also to be seen. Stores of all kinds line the main street and river-front, some being less than ten feet wide, as rent for ground is ten dollars a foot per month, we are told, in this business part of the town. From the land- ing up to the Klondike River, boats of ev^ery style line the water-front, reminding one of the house-boats about Canton, although those belonging to this settlement are of a much more primitive character, but a better description might be given after a more thorough acquaintance with this unique and wonderful place, which I christened at sight " Circus Town." As we neared the wharf of the Alaska Commercial Company we searched in vain for a familiar face among the thousand before us. Such perfect discipline seemed marvel- lous. We tied up at the dock, but not one man stepped on 99 loo Two Women in the Klondike board, no one attempted to land, and yet there were only two Canadian officials on duty. There was much hand- shaking across the boat's side, shouts of " Hulloa, Bill ! " — " Why, there 's Jim," etc., for every man is known by his Christian name in this part of the world. Upon inquiring for the two men to whom we had letters, and who had pro- mised to look out for us, we were informed that they had " gone out" on the steamer which had passed us in the night. At that news we felt indeed that we were strangers in a strange land, when who should evade the police and jump on board, after having rowed around the Leah in a canoe, but Mr. M ! a case of the bread which we had cast upon the waters returning to us in a moment of need. We had become interested in him when we were in California. He was land-poor and just about to go to Dawson over the Pass. He looked delicate, and after all the tales that we had read of the hardships of that terrible trip, we felt that he might never live to reach there, so E and I talked it over and finally decided to send him in hy steamer and allow him to "pay up" when his mines should prove valuable. How glad we were to receive his cordial, hearty greeting! After lunching with us, he accompanied us on shore to look at accommodations. We first went along the main street to a new hotel which was to be opened that evening with a big dinner, followed by a dance. The house, built of wood, and three stories high, quite towered above the tents and cabins of its neigh- bours. The only entrance that was fini.shed was through the new and elaborately furnished barroom, within whose walls many a sad history will probably be recorded during the coming year, as we are told that "the liquor busi- ness here is bigger pay than the richest mine," and that " even the smallest barroom realises between five hundred and a thousand dollars a night." Separated bj- a hallway from this saloon is the dining-room, beautifully clean, table covered with damask, and even napkins (something uimsual in this part of the world) at each place. The menu, begin- I02 Two Women in the Klondike ning with " oj-ster cocktails," caused us to open our eyes wide with astonishment, after all that the papers have told us of the starvation about Dawson. We next visited the kitchen adjoining, where there was a stove that would have gladdened the heart of any cook at home. The chef was said to be from Marchand's, of Sau Francisco. The pro- prietress explained to us that she had sent for chairs, which had arrived without legs, they having been left on the dock at St. Michaels, one of the inconveniences that one has to bear through the negligence of transportation companies, so she had carpenters at fifteen dollars a day manufacturing new legs. On the second floor, a long, narrow hall separated rooms that were about double the size of an ordinary cabin on ship- board. Each room contained a primitive wooden bedstead, but there was no space for wardrobe, closet, or dressing- table. Evidently the pride of the hostess's heart was cen- tred in Brussels carpets and lace curtains, to which she called our attention as having been introduced into Dawson for the first time. The price of one of these tiny rooms was six dollars and a half a daj-, food five dollars extra, or two dollars a meal. On the third floor the carpenters were busy preparing for the evening dance, after which the large hall was to be partitioned off into small rooms, at five dollars a day each, providing that the sojourn of the guest should be at least of one month's duration, otherwise terms to be increased accordinglj-. We were cordially invited to return for the dinner at lo p.m., and also for the dance. Noticing that there were no panes of glass in the windows, which were simply covered with cheese-cloth, we asked what happened in case of rain, and were told that it very rarely rained, but that when it did there would probably not be sufficient to do any damage. Glass also had been ordered, but, as usual, it was impossible to tell when or by what steamer it would arrive. From the hotel we continued our walk as far as the banks of the famous Klondike River. But of it and its at- tractions later — in case we have the courage and good fortune to tramp in that direction to pan out gold on a claim of our I04 Two Women in the Klondike own. Then to the other end of town, to a small cabin 12 x iS on the hillside, it being the one upon which we had an option for two thousand dollars. As it was crowded in by tents on all sides, with the sun beating down upon it, and as we were exhausted bj- the long tramp after a six-weeks' vo3-age, we were finallj- persuaded to row across the Yukon to West Dawson, which was described to us as being on high ground, health)- and cool, and just the place for our tent. Our guide invited the Doctor to accompany us in his canoe. Going over is very easj-, as the current carries the boat at the rate of at least five miles an hour, if not more, but the return trip requires strong oars and stout arms. We landed at the foot of a picturesque bank, which was already in its favour, as compared with the marshy swamp on the opposite side. Plenty of room there was for an ordin- ary tent, but it was difficult to find space sufficient for our 40x70. Finally, we came to a bit of ground belonging to Mr. , who told us that, as he was leaving the following day, he would gladly give up to us his rights of possession, before starting on a prospecting trip. The miners from all the tents in that vicinity were sitting outside, enjoying their evening meal, from which they rose to give us cordial wel- come, and to tell us that in case we were prevented from turn- ing up on time they would allow no one else to "jump " the site. They &lso begged us not to hire men to pitch the tent, as they should like the pleasure of doing it for us. Although they were clad in rough miners' costumes, their gentle and kindly manners showed that at home thej- occupied positions of no slight prominence. At g p.m. the sun was still light- ing us on our way, and we decided that with three steamers in port, it would be a fine occasion for " doing the town " as it is called here. We were first escorted to the dance-hall of the place, and slipped through a private entrance into a box that was curtained, so that we were free from observation while able to see all that took place. Nothing could have been more highly proper than the dancing, which consisted of waltzes, polkas, and military schottisches, interspersed with occasional io6 Two Women in the Klondike square dances, which seemed more like Caledonians than lancers or quadrilles. The "girls," as thej' were called, seemed to be between twentj'-five and thirty years of age. A lot of Dawson ' ' society ' ' men were dancing with them, the handsomest being " Nigger Jim," whom we watched admiringl}' from our peep-hole as he " trod the mazy " with a sombrero hat on the back of his head, a cigar in his mouth, and the most debonair air imaginable. According to the rule of the house, drinks at one dollar each must be ordered after every dance. In case the " girl ' ' does not care to drink, her partner gives her a check which she is allowed to " cash in " later, receiving twenty-five cents from the pro- prietor of the dance-hall. She is also paid twenty-five dollars a week for dancing, or at least so we were informed. In the rear of the hall was a stage and there were ensconced five men who composed the orchestra, and very good music they produced. We heard one or two songs from the O Sisters, and then adjourned to the Monte Carlo Theatre, where we witnessed a thoroughly respectable variety show, which came to an end a little before midnight, after which we were escorted safely back to our barge through crowded streets, where law and order are wonderfully well maintained. Thursday, July aStb. The first visit that E and I paid this morning was to the post-ofEce, to inquire for the large batch of mail which we supposed had been sent in to us over the Pass. To our great astonishment there was but one letter. We sent for the postmaster, who listened most courteously as we told him of the books, magazines, and papers which we had ordered to be forwarded long before our departure. He politely ex- plained that a very small mail had been sent in over the Pass, but that the greater quantity would come by the Alliance according to contract made by our Government. First disappointment. The Alaska Commercial Company is very generous in allowing passengers to remain on the boats until they have found comfortable accommodations. On returning to lunch- The Promised Land 107 eon we were greath- interested in the different plans. The old fiddler said : " There ain't nothin' here for me. The whiskey business is overdone— saloon on every corner, an' a dozen thrown in between ; restaurants everywhere ; houses with only one room, the cheapest on 'em a hundred dollars a month ; me an' my wife 's goin' back on this same steamer." One of the most energetic passengers was a Ger- man, who, with her daughter and two sons, had already visited every available site in town, had purchased a con- trolling interest in the swimming-bath, and was planning to partition from it one side, which she intended to run as a laundry ; the other for her daughter to serve ice-cream, cakes, and " soft drinks." The Colonel's wife was most unhappy, as the German had engaged the two " servant-girls which I 've raised and brought up here," said she, " and now they won't go back with me." Before leaving San Francisco, we had supplied ourselves with certificates of deposit on the Bank of California, worth fift)^ dollars each, which we were told were not onlj^ " as good as gold," but " commai::! a premium of from ten to fifteen per cent, in Dawson." Imagine, then, our surprise at being obliged to pay two dollars and a half a hundred for the privilege of exchange. Another surprise was when, after luncheon E and I started on a shopping expedition, she was greeted by a man who had travelled through Egypt in her party in '95. After dinner we were asked to accom- pany a few friends on an exploring expedition, but, feeling exhausted, preferred sitting in our easy chairs on top of the barge, from which point we commanded the entire town. Our first visitor was Mrs. , a former passenger, whose hus- band is a Dawson physician. He accompanied her, and we were greatly amused by the experiences which they related. " Our cabin, although large for Dawson," said she, " is too small to contain trunks, furniture, and a stove, so we do with- out the latter and take our meals at restaurants, but oh, how I hate to see four dollars passed out three times a day just for our food! As for the Doctor, he is so accustomed to receiv- ing seventeen dollars for a visit that he does n't mind." io8 Two Women in the Klondike Good Father R joined our party and told me that one of the Sisters at the hospital here had been in the hospital at St. Josephs, Victoria, during my stay there, and that she was anxious to see me. How delightful it will be to meet her again in this far-away corner of the world! Mr. L then presented the correspondent of the New York Herald and a Mr. J , who we were informed was the rightful CANADIAN BANK OF COMMERCE, DAWSON. owner of the land which we have been inspecting in West Dawson. He told me that he and his partner had staked out one hundred and sixty (or perhaps many more — have forgotten the number) acres. They had paid the commis- sioner a deposit of fifty dollars on the land, which he had accepted. They had spent many thousands in clearing it and in starting a fine garden. Just as radishes, and many other delicacies (for that part of the world ) were spring- ing into life, the squatters came, and, as the Government The Promised Land 109 had failed to protect his rights, this garden had been aban- doned, and he would be delighted to have us as neigh- bours. Some miners were here introduced, among them one of the ' ' Klondike Kings." I begged for a story, whereupon he said that one of the most amusing things that had hap- pened to him was the receipt of the following letter, which he kindlj' allowed me to copy : ' ' Dear : Doubtless you will be surprised to receive a letter from your native land in far-oflf America, but seeing your picture in the paper with details of your sojourn in the Gold Regions, and pleased with your courage and Perse- verance thought I would like to make the acquaintance of one that has spent 8 lotiff years in the Yukon after so many reverses becomeing the Mineing King How true if you don't succeed at first tr}- trj' again and you surely have been rewarded for j-our trials and hardships endured which I suppose was many and hard at the time. Yet wherever we are, there are more or less hardships to bear. Though my younger days were spent with miui! Happiness haveing everything that Heart could wish. Then I married one of the best men of the world and my life was a pleasant Dream of love, until he died leaving me alone in this cold, cold world. Not haveing children, I have spent most of my time with relatives here and in the West. I am very fond of travelling, and have been fortunate in that respect. The paper speaks of j-our Wandersome disposition. True, that is very well when we are young. My experience is that there is no place like a Pleasant Home, with a lovehig- and devoted husband and it seems to me that a bachelor o^ your age, would conclude that life was not worth liveing, without a dear little Wife to look after your Happiness in sickness and Health with plenty of this viorWs goods, to make every- thing comfortable / have always been use to plent}' and have an income that keeps me very comfortable, but the Loneliness of this life. I have been of a bright and Lively disposition and enjoyed Life untill the passed 3 3-ears but now every thing seems faded and life not worth liveing. I cannot enjoy anny thing without some one to share that no Two Women in the Klondike Happiness I am rather tall, brown hair, and blue eyes, fond of music and the /?«c Arts ; have studdied both. Now that you have almost finished reading my letter, I hope you will reflect and think kindly of me, and answer this poorly composed and written letter through Friendship and that some day, some where we may meet and not be sorry that this letter was written. I can give the best of Referrence VIEW ON THE SHORE OF THE YUKON. and of course expect the same. Thinking you would be pleased to see your picture in the paper, I enclose the same then you can tell me in return if it is really you. I icish you would send me a Photo — then I will return the compliment. Since July, I have constantly been with my Invalid Mother who has been verry ill most of the time and not expected to Live long, as she is 75 years old and one of the Sweetest in this world and I feel that when her Spirrit leaves that poor o I 112 Two Women in the Klondike old Body that it will get to that Land of Rest where all is Piece and Happiness. If you are pleased with this letter and wish to ans-wer I will promise a Better one in return Respectfully your Irue and unknown Friend " Mrs. ." Friday, July 29th. As the Leah and the barge were about to pull out of the harbour this morning, carrying many of our former pas- sengers, J — ■ — • (who had concluded to try Dawson rather than Rampart) said, " Mrs. H , if you 're going to live across the river you '11 want a boat and there 's a man ' going out ' on the Leah who will sell one for ten dollars." " But I know nothing of boats ; let me wait and consult M ." " You can't," said J , " he 's off Wfjw." The owner then sung out, " You may have it for five," and with a woman's love for a bargain, after a hasty glance at the boat, I handed out the monc}' and was very proud to be told afterwards that in this part of the country the lumber alone is worth between twentj- and thirty-five dollars, and still more proud that the Joseph was able to hold all our house- hold goods and provisions, weighing over a thousand pounds. We spent the morning at the Custom House, paying about one hundred dollars in duties. Our tent had already been taken across and was being prepared for our reception, but as it weighed over four hundred pounds, we engaged men to put it up carefully, unwilling to impose upon the good nature of our neighbours. Finally everything was cleared, and a kindlj', helpful crowd escorted us and our boxes to the Joseph. CHAPTER XIII WE BECOME SQUATTERS AND now we are squatters on the land staked out by Mr. J and his partner. Our tent attracts the greatest amount of attention from each side of the river. Tents, as a general thing, run from eight to perhaps twenty feet — but one this size ! ! ! The Klondike Nugget wrote of it : " West Dawson is taking metropolitan strides. From this side of the river can be seen a large number of cabins going up, and within a few days has been erected the largest tent in the district. The West Dawsonites are to have the first church services in the town there next Sunday, which will be con- ducted by the Rev. Dr. D ." The same sheet added in its personal columns : " Miss V and Mrs. Admiral (!) H are the latest additions to Dawson societ}-. The ladies are .wealthy and are very well known in the United States. They travel for pleasure, and are simpl}- ' doing ' the Klondike country as thej' have done many other famous points of interest in Europe and America. They came in by way of St. Michaels, and expect to go out again before the freeze-up, and possibly by way of the Chilkoot Pass." To return to the subject of the tent. It took four men to transport it from Dawson. Our neighbours worked under the direction of an experienced man at fifteen dollars a day, with his assistants at one dollar an hour. We had given an order for planking the entire ground, but when we saw as we entered, the wild flowers and plants, or rather weeds, two feet high, the place looked so picturesque that we concluded to allow it to remain in its natural state. The pigeons, per- 3 113 114 Two Women in the Klondike mitted to fly about, looked so pretty in the high grass and perched upon the screen ; the canary and the parrot made the interior attractive and honiehke — the general effect that of a conservator}'. Mr. L sent us a large bearskin, while our neighbours contributed half a dozen smaller ones. Mr. J sent radishes from his garden, and after they had all worked hard and were ready to enjoy a well-earned rest, we started the graphophone which many of ' ' the boys ' ' (they are all ' ' boys ' ' here) had never before heard. How delighted the}' were and how quickly the evening passed ! As they left at ii p.m., we hooked the flap of our tent and made preparations for retiring. It seemed impossible that I, who had insisted, when at home, upon having doors locked, bolted, and barred, and who had never gone to bed without looking under it, as well as in the wardrobe and every con- ceivable nook and cranny, and who had also started for the Klondike with revolver, cartridges, and belt, should now be entirely free from fear, realising that the tents of honest miners were all about us, and that, were a burglar to present himself, one call from us would bring the man to justice so quickly that he scarce would have time to repeat a prayer. We had been advised to purchase air mattresses, as being lighter and more convenient than any other. Ours came from one of the best-known firms in San Francisco. We had them made to order, ordering at the same time canvas hammocks with a boxing all around so that they should be firmly held. Imagine, then, our indignation to find that this boxing was too flim.sy to stand, while the air-pumps or bellows had been forgotten, although we had repeatedly charged the clerk not on any account to fail to pack at least two with the mattresses. Let me sa}- just here that it is almost necessar}' to watch one's goods put into the box and the cover nailed down, no matter where one may outfit nor how responsible the firm, for it rarely happens that articles arrive with everything needed. Then begins a search in the stores and junk-.shops for the one essential thing, and should one be so unusually fortunate as to find it, the cost would surelj' amount to five or ten times more than one would pay We Become Squatters 115 for it at home. E and I spent an hour in trj'ing to " blow np " our mattresses, but laughter at the funn}- situa- tion retarded work. Finally we rolled up in two ten-pound blankets each and tumbled into the hannnocks on one side only to roll out on the other side, as our novel bed swung, landing us on the soft ground. After a little practice, how- ever, we managed it and slept a few hours until awakened by the icy wind. We then bundled up in heavy wraps, and, as our air pillows were too cool, we substituted those of down from our deck chairs, which were decidedlv more comfort- able. After another .short sleep we again wakened, shiver- ing with cold. E called to know if it were not time to start the fire, as it was so light it must be late, so we pre- pared for breakfast and then looked at our watches — 2.30 A..M. ! ! ! July 30th. The " boys " promised to find us a cook, but as he failed to materialise, E made .some delicious soda-biscuit and we managed with great difficulty to open a tin of butter and of sardines. We had some nails, so drove one with a log of wood into one of the posts supporting the tent, and what do you suppose was the first thing we hung up ? Why, a mirror, of course. Some of the " boys " had opened boxes for us the previous evening, and we had as much fun and excite- ment in looking through them as though they had been Christmas boxes from home. As we had neither shelf, nor peg, nor table, we could only look into them in order to know where to find things when needed. By ten, the sun came out and shone with such power that it was too hot to continue the inspection, so we placed our chairs where we could get the breeze in the door of the tent, from which we had an unobstructed view of the river, the mountains, and Dawson nestling at the foot of this magnificent background. We began to read the three latest papers from San Francisco and Seattle, but were soon interrupted by visits from our neighbours, the miners whose tents surrounded ours. One of the men was particularh' interesting. He was just about to start out on the trail, and had with him his dog carrying ii6 Two Women in the Klondike a pack. He had been mining in California, he said, with Senator J and Senator T , and was now on his way, with provisions, to join his son, who was working claims on some bars where he had found rich gold. He promised to prospect for us, and in case he found anj'thing of value, to post our names there until we could tramp out and stake for ourselves. People came during the morning from all part.s, to have a look at our wonderful tent, the fame of which seems to have gone far be)'ond Dawson. As they showed a disposition to see the interior, we gave them permission to enter, which the}' did in the most respectful manner, hats in hand. Their pleasure at sight of the pigeons and our other pets was most touching, and their delight in hearing music from our Criterion was unbounded. We may be .surrounded by rough miners, but never have we met men more courteous or more ready to lend a helping hand, not only to women but to men. Before starting from California we had read that here each man was for himself and had no time to assist his neighbour, nor was he willing to offer him the smallest portion of " grub." All untruths ! for no such generosity exists in any other part of the world. Lunch-time and no cook ! We are beginning to feel the pangs of hunger, but do not dare attempt filling the coal-oil stove. We look outside and see our next-door neighbour cooking a delicious-.smelling me.ss on his stove out in the open air. He glances towards us and asks if we would like some stewed oysters. We are divided between a longing for them, and the fear of robbing him and his partner, but his offer is so cordial that we accept, upon condition that he will take our box of sardines, which he does reluctantly. How we reliish the oysters, and with what an appetite we devour them! Truly it is worth the trip to enjoy food as we now do. E borrows a place on her neighbour's stove and makes herself a cup of cocoa. Another neighbour goes to town and brings us two loaves of bread at twenty-five cents each, accepting the money most reluctantly, as they all want to be not only hospitable but generous. Another neighbour presents us with lemons ; still another with oranges, which ii8 Two Women in the Klondike are given in such a way that we cannot offer to pay for them without fear of offending these kind souls. One of the " boys " tells us that in a tent near by lives an English phy- sician who had the pleasure of meeting E in Yokohama, when her father was consul-general to Japan ; that he wishes to call on her, but has no " boiled shirt " ready, nor ' ' store clothes. ' ' To this we exclaim, " But our visitors must not stand upon ceremony. We find that we must keep to jerse3-s and short skirts while here, and the men must make no changes in their costume on our account. We are all roughing it and camping out, some for one purpose and some for another, and we desire to be treated as are others in West Dawson." In a very short time the Doctor made his appearance, handsome in his jersej-, and and needing no " store clothes " to show him to better advantage. How we did enjoy talking over the Orient and those we had known in China and Japan! Thus occupied, the afternoon sped by rapidl}'. Towards 5 p.im. the tent grows delightfully cool. M appeared with delicious salmon steaks for dinner and we could hardly wait for him to fill the coal-oil slove, so famished were we. It did not take long to light the fire and to heat some of Van Camp's delicious tomato soup. This is one of the articles of food we brought in which more than equals our expectations. E also cooked the salmon and heated a tin of corn, all of which we enjoyed more than any feast. E was then allowed a well-deserved rest, while M and I washed and wiped our aluminum dishes and hung them up on the high weeds. Poor M had been scouring the town all day for a cook but the search was in vain. " The boys" came and sat in the tent door after dinner, while we had some of our best Criterion music, and it was delightful to see how they enjoyed Lohcngiin and Taiiuhaitscr, as well as Italian opera and Sou.sa's compositions. All parties break up here at eleven. So at that hour our tent flap was closed, and we followed the directions given to us by our neighbours and had a fine night's rest. We put rugs iiudry the hammocks this time, so that the dampness from the We Become Squatters 119 ground sliould not rise ; then we made a bag of one pair of blankets, stepped into it, and rolled into the other instead of getting into a carefully made bed, and, although the night was quite as cool as the previous one, we slept as warmlj' and comfortably as if at home. One amusing thing occurred. The fur robe was under E 's hammock, while under mine was placed the pair of blankets purchased for Ivan, but which we were told he ought not to be allowed to use so early in the season. Hardly had wc fallen asleep before the dog A SLEEPING BAG. recognised his blankets and tried to crawl under my ham- mock in order to take possession of them. As he pushed under on one side, the hammock tipped over on the other and sent me rolling out on the grass, which caused me quite as much merriment as it did E , whose laughter was soon hushed, lest our neighbours should be disturbed. Sunday, July 31st. Another glorious day ! Temperature delightful. While E lighted the fire and heated .some of our tinned stores. I20 Two Women in the Klondike I fed and watered the pigeons, parrot, canarj-, and dog. By the time we had finished breakfast and our few chores, it was too late for church. Some of our neighbours came to invite us to row across in Peterboro canoes, which are considered the safest boats to use against the tremendous current, but we have a deadly fear of anything bearing the name of canoe, so had private services at home. Lunch hour, and still no cook, although the " boys " are scouring the town in search of one. We cooked a bit of salmon which was brought us from Dawson, heated some tinned vegetables, and, with our appetites, it was a feast. As we were sitting resting and reading at our tent door, who should appear but our shipmates, Mr. R and Dr. D , bringing with them a ver}- handsome fellow named A , who has been in this part of the world so long that he thinks it would be difficult to live at home again. Hardly had they seated themselves, or rather thrown themselves on the rugs (for we have but three chairs), when Mr. M and Mr. R joined the party. They had all rowed across and were hot and thirsty. We remembered a powder which had been prepared for us by our San Francisco chemist, so we mixed it with the cool spring-water, making a delicious cider. As our guests had come to spend the afternoon in the countrj', we treated them without ceremony, and opened a box containing the latest periodicals of all kinds, which they had not yet been able to obtain, so that they could enjo}' the illustrations as well as conversation. M spied my man- dolin, and told me how charmingly R pla}-ed, and he was right. He drew from it more exquisite music than I had ever heard, even in Italj'. Such a restful, peaceful sab- bath ! We also heard the songs of the Salvation Army, as the airs floated across the Yukon to us. We were sorry to tell our guests au revoir, but could not feel lonely, as one neighbour after another stopped to see if we needed anything. Mr. O , who is three tents away from us, came to ask if he could row one of us over in the morning. E gladly accepted, as she is to do the shop- ping. O said there were two great causes of excitement We Become Squatters 121 in Dawson, from which town he had just returned. One was the preparations for the departure of the Bella ; the other, the arrival of two of our pigeons, which were quietly seated on the roof of a low building, with an admiring crowd about them, as many had not seen pigeons for years, and were revelling in the sound of their cooing". " I hope they won't shoot them for sea-gulls," said E . " Never j'ou fear," replied O ; " every man, woman, and child knows that thej' be- long to you two ladies, and they would be only too ready to bring them back to you, did thej' not think they would come of their own accord." Just then M appeared with a fel- low whom he introduced as his friend Mr. Isaacs, saying : " He is in hard luck just now. He took out last year eight thousand dollars from one of his claims ; went home to find his father had died, gave his mother seven thousand to pay off a mortgage on the old home, then put the remainder in an outfit and returned to Daw.son. After a short rest, he started out on the trail, and after locating one or two claims, returned to find that his tent and entire outfit were burned to the ground. But his pluck never deserted him; he de- termined to take the first job v?hich presented itself, so he is willing to be your cook, boatman, and Jack-of-all-trades for five dollars a day and his ' grub.' " The news of our acqui- sition was soon spread abroad, and we are now spoken of as millionairesses and are told that we shall probably have claims offered us by the thousand. CHAPTER XIV THE "sick boy " Monday, August ist. MR. O had promised to row E to Dawson at nine o'clock. At ten he had not jet turned up, so we sent Isaacs to inquire whether he had changed his plans. He quickl)' came to tell us that he had been sitting up with a sick boy all night, and had just finished breakfast, but would be read\- in a few moments. I immediatelj^ went to the " sick bo}- " to see what he needed. He was sleeping in a small tent, on a bed made of pine boughs, covered with a fur robe ; his head was in an uncomfortable position, with no pillow ; he was feverish, and able to retain nothing on his stomach. To get him a nice cool air-pillow, to bathe his head and give him the juice of an orange, was the work of a few moments, and then I left, fearing to wearj- him, but giving him a whistle with which to call me in case of need. The poor fellow .said he had never been ill before, and would rather be dead than on his back, but he had had a long, tough tramp over the mountains, " which knocked me out," said he. On the way back to "the big tent," as it has been christened, while exchanging salutations with the miners, I said, " It is sad to have an invalid neighbour " " Yes, but it 's nice to have one who brings sympath}' and oranges," they replied. During the morning, Isaacs busied himself making a music-rack with four shelves, which is most use- ful, as, besides the purpose it is intended for, it holds maga- zines, illustrated weeklies, novels, and all the literature with which we filled one box, and to which our neighbours are offered free access. 124 Two Women in the Klondike E returned from town, having purchased the com- monest kind of a wooden table for eight dollars, but glad to get it at anj' price, although it was badly warped. Upon expressing a wish that we had half a dozen of them, Mr. J , who was calling upon us, said, " I have one that I '11 gladly lend you, and it won't be depriving me a bit, as it 's too large to go in my cabin." E had also purchased moose-steak at a dollar a pound, but, although she had searched all the shops of Dawson, she was unable to find at any price a tub, large or small, for bathing purposes. She brought an invitation for Wednesday' evening. Mr. M had asked us to dine, in case we would not mind eating as the miners do from a table with no table-cloth, and from sauce-pans instead of dishes. While at luncheon, five passers-b}' put their heads into the tent ; they were evidently from a distance, and were abashed as thej' caught sight of us, but we had been in- spired by the hospitality of our neighbours, and called out, " Come right in if you want to see the tent." They entered almost on tiptoe, and twirling their hats between fingers and thumbs, but at sight of the birds their feelings over- came them. One sat down near the canary and almost wept as he listened to its beautiful notes. Another said; " I used to have a parrot at home, an' it knew my footsteps so well that whenever I came into the house it always hollered, ' Papa! Papa ! ' Many a one tried to deceive it b}- walkin' like me, but it warn't no use, it never hollered for anybody else. Tell you what, parrots 'ez got a heap er sense. An- other thing yer could n't fool my parrot on was this : j'er 'd take some money out o' 3'er pocket and shake it, en' she 'd holler, ' Gimme a nickel, gimme a nickel ' ; but yer might shake other things that sounded like money all night, an', though she could only hear it an' could n't see it, she 'd look as wise as an owl, an' never sa}- a word." The ap- preciation and the deep feeling shown by these guests to whom chance had revealed some relics of home life were most touching. Towards evening I went again to the tent of the " sick The "Sick Boy" 125 boy " who seemed very much better and thanked me most heartily for the air-pillow which had been such a comfort to him. There was a heavy towel on his forehead, which I re- placed with a soft handkerchief, dipping it occasionally in the icy spring-water until he assured me that his head was greatly relieved. As there was only a box on which to sit, Isaacs brought over one of our steamer chairs, and the in- valid listened attentively as I read to him some of the war- news, for which he begged in preference to stories from novel or magazine. He interrupted occasionally to tell me of his life of wandering, of his adventures, and how, recently, he had been Ij'ing and watching, from his cot in the tent, the burials that took place across the river, " sometimes five to ten a day," said he. " But you must remember that the population is said to be nearly fort}' thousand," said I, " and that the Dawsonites are living in a marshy swamp, while we are are on high, dry ground." Just then a blonde head appeared, and a pleasant voice exclaimed, " How are you feeling, Mr. Jones? " — " Oh, much better, thank j'ou," and turning to me he said, " Mrs. H , let me make you acquainted with Mrs. A ," and I was soon deeply inter- ested in listening to Mrs. A 's experiences in crossing the trail from Dyea, which she declared to be so wonder- fully beautiful that it more than repaid one for all the perils of the undertaking. Ne.xt came Mr. O to see if he could be of assistance; so taking my departure I walked down the bank to the cabin of a feeble neighbour, who had appealed to my sympathy the previous day, but his tent was empty. A neighbour said: " Oh, I got him off by the Bella, and, although it 's a great relief, I 'm filled with anxiet}^ lest he should not live to reach home. You see we started out as partners months ago, and were to .share half and half in all claims we might stake, but before we reached the Lakes he had a hemorrhage which was so alarming that I tried to persuade him to re- turn, but he would n't listen to it, consequent!)' he .soon grew worse and I had to carry him on my back whenever we reached a landing ; from a strong, stout man he soon be- 126 Two Women in the Klondike came the wreck you saw him. Mj- seven months have been spent in nursing liim, we have staked no claims, and I am about seven hundred dollars out, but don't mind that if he only gets home safely. I intend now to pack np and go on the American side, where one has no ten-per-cent. royalt}- to paj'." As the Bella was leaving, our man Isaacs rushed from the tent exclaiming, " Excuse me, marm, but as I helped caulk that ship when I was down on me luck in St. Michaels, I must see how she goes. Well, she do behave beautiful, she do." Although this is mainland, we call it " our island," because it seems to us, as though we are leading a Robinson Crusoe life. We went on an exploring expedition this afternoon and our imaginary boundary lines are an eighth of a mile on either side, consisting on the left of a poultry-yard and small slaughtering establi.shment, from which the odour was so unpleasant that we hastily retraced our steps ; on the right, a rivulet or creek coming down from the mountain-side which supplies us with drinking water. As walking over this boggy ground is ruinous to shoes, we have decided to imi- tate the neighbours and wear either muck-a-lucks or rubber boots. We were greeted pleasantlj' from each cabin, where the miners are taking their summer's rest after a hard win- ter's work. Returned to find Dr. H waiting to pay us a visit ; he had brought photographs of his cabin, and talked of the friends we had in common in Japan. M , who had been shopping for us in Dawson, brought us rice, ropes, buckets, and numerous other little things needed, which it had been quite impossible for us to obtain. He joined us at dinner, and how we did enjoj* that moosse-steak ! After dinner the rain came down in torrents. For two days we have been waiting for the man who superintended the erection of our tent, as the poles are en- tireh' too short, causing it to sag, and now we are punished for his neglect, as the sagging forms everywhere pockets which hold water and allow it to drip through as does the fruit-juice from a jelly-bag. There are twenty-four big pockets, and innumerable smaller ones, so we rush from one The "Sick Boy" 127 to the other, raising the canvas with sticks, to hear the water drop with a thud on the ground outside. ■ E and I have both grown tired of swinging in ham- mocks and want something more stationary-, so Isaacs, with the assistance of our neighbours, cut down some trees, made them into four bedstead-legs, which they drove solidly into the ground, nailed across these side-poles, and then pieces for the head and foot. The frame being finished, a double thickness of burlap was tightl}- stretched across it, and this was E 's bed, upon which her hammock and mattress were placed ; a similar one was then constructed for me and finished by ii p.m., and it was still too light tor a candle. Isaacs had had an unusually hard day's work, but had been unwilling to leave until he had made us thoroughly com- fortable. The " boys" had divided their time between ren- dering him assistance and entertaining us. Mr. A gave us his experiences in crossing the Chilkoot Pass to which we listened intently, wondering whether we should be able to screw up our courage to the point of attempting so difficult a feat. He said that, like many another, he had quarrelled with his partner and made the usual division — cut the tent in half, the boat in twain, and even divided the stove. All night long the rain continued, but we, tightly wrapped in blankets in our fine new beds, thought of the old song, " Oh 't is sweet to lie at even On the lowly cottage bed. And to hear the rain-drops patter On the roof-lop overhead." 'T would have been sweeter except for the fact that our fiftj'- pound sack of flour, and all our worldly goods were lying on the ground, and we wondered whether they would be ruined by the dampness. Tuesday, August 2d. Not enough sun to dry anything, but it is a blessing that the rain has ceased, and we are praying to be protected from rheumatic pains, for dampness reigns supreme this morning. It was quite ten before we were able to have breakfast, but 128 Two Women in the Klondike that is an hour earlier than any of our neighbours, who are seldom about before noon. Isaacs prepared us a delicious breakfast, and we are thankful for such a perfect oil-stove, which is always ready at a moment's notice for cooking of any kind ; we had nice fresh salmon taken from our Klon- dike refrigerator, which, bj- the waj-, I have not yet described. By digging from one and a half to two feet underground, one strikes ice, so we have a large subterranean ditch in the kitchen corner of the tent, in which we place boxes contain- ing meat, fish, or whatever one would preserve on ice at home. Mr. O— — and Mr. J paid a friendly call to ask if we wished to be rowed over to town, but we were so very busy unpacking and decorating our tent, that we had to depend upon them to bring us back a roast for dinner. Isaacs busied himself making a couple of benches for our table ; chopping trees, and breaking boxes, from which he made us shelves and a couple of stools. 'T was three o'clock before we knew it. Isaacs prepared soup from a " beef-stock powder," while E made most delicious scalloped to- matoes. We partook of these dishes and hot biscuit with keen relish, while our cook, being such a hard worker, got the remains of the moose-meat of the daj- previous, with some " evaporated" potatoes. At four o'clock Dr. H brought two most attractive young Englishwomen, who had come from Dawson to have tea with him. They had " come in " over the Chilkoot Pass. One had crossed the summit, suspended in a basket, one thousand feet above sea level. Naturally we were deeply interested in their descriptions. Mrs. F. had lived in "\'ic- toria, B. C, and knew man)- of my friends there, so the visit seemed all too short. 5 P.M. A Mr. S has just been here, attracted by our pigeons, having rai.sed fancy pigeons at home for his own amusement. He gave us much excellent advice in regard to building their cotes, and kindly offered to as.sist in their construction. He sat on the ground, Japanese fashion, out- side of our tent door and related some of his experiences. The "Sick Boy" 129 He said that most of the " boj-s " had struck it rich, but that his turn had not yet arrived, as he did not intend to work his claims until those on either side had found plentj' of pay gold, after which it would be easy for him to trace the vein. " There 's nothing makes a man cuss so much," said he, " as continuous but unsuccessful hard work. Why, I cuss bj' the hour sometimes, an' it 's like a thunder-storm — it clears the air." "Perhaps, should you do less ' cussing, ' and a little more praying," I mildly suggested, " you might have better luck." "I '11 bet the Missus is right," said Isaacs, tying his necktie and drawing up a bench on which he comfortably seated himself, " but by gosh ! it do comfort one a lot to sa}' it all out." E and I looked at each other but dared not speak, as Isaacs commenced questioning our visitor, and relating experiences which had caused him also to use strong language. Cooks are rare in this part of the world, even at one hundred and fifty dollars a month and grub, and it would never do to offend one ; so, as we came to camp among this people and to write experiences, we de- termined to accept everything in the kindly spirit in which it was intended, and if our " Jack-of-all-trades " is " down on his luck" just now, a turn of the shovel maj^ make him a millionaire. In this countr}- there are no cliques of anj' kind, and all are really upon a perfect equalitj' ; besides, Isaacs whispered to me to-day, " I say. Missus, don't j-ou give it away, but I 've struck quartz just up here where I 've been digging, an' if there 's much of it there, we can stake out all this land, and a mill-site as well." 6 P.M. " What you doing ? Writing up all your troubles? " said Mr. O , as he stood at the entrance to our camp. " How could we have any," I answered, " with such kind neighbours, and where all is so peaceful ? " "I came to see if you ladies would n't like to go to a dance to- night — a real nice, respectable dance, and something you could write home about." " Where 's it going to be?" called out Isaacs, from behind the kitchen stove. — " Over at C — ■ — 's ; you going?" "No; I 'm too tired," replied Isaacs. " I 've been up all night for two nights and I must 13° Two Women in the Klondike get some sleep to-iiiglit. " " Won't you go, ladies ? ' ' pleaded O . " I '11 row you over and back, and give you a fine supper into the bargain." " It is really most kind," we ex- claimed, " and we appreciate it very much, but we 've been unpacking all daj- and are thoroughlj' exhausted ; there '11 be other dances, will there not ? " " Yes, but this is going to be a splendid affair, and the supper 's going to be fine." " Supper ! " interrupted Isaacs; " why, that would cost eight dollars a head, and if a-ou should give 'em fizz at fort}' dollars a pint, you 'd blow in a hundred dollars." " Oh ! I don't mind that," said O , " if they 'd onlj'. go; and they surely ought to see everything in Dawson." Just then someone passed and said that the " sick boy " was not so well. I went at once to his tent and found that his illness had changed its form to one for which I happened to have an infallible cure. Its effect upon the invalid was marvellous, and saved him from the dj-seatery with which he was threatened. He was in a talkative mood, so I sat by his bedside and listened to a short and interesting sketch of his life, which I regret not having time to jot down just now. " Was n't j'ou and Miss V in Denver ? " asked he ; "I thought I saw you there at a swell hotel. This little tent o' mine ain't no place for 30U to be. I 'ni glad you come on this side o' the river to live, coz the ' boys ' are all nice an' kind, an' the likes o' that. If j-ou 'd 'a' gone to Dawson in that new hotel, you 'd 'a' been shut in with an awful rough lot o' fellows. W^hen Mrs. B arrived on this side, an' said she did n't want to live in a tent, and wished the boys would help her build a house, I said, ' Certainl}' we will ; come ahead, boys,' an' we had her cabin nice an' snug an* ready for her to go into it in a daj' ; but we can't do nothin' for you; you 've got not only every comfort, but every luxury, besides a man to wait on you. But there 's my boat, an' she 's a dand}', an' I 'd be powerful glad to have you take her and row to town whenever you feel like it, an' when I git well, I kin .stake out a claim an' give it to you. Have you got anj' relations named General H ? I used to see him a long time ago, an' thought perhaps he might be a re- 132 Two Women in the Klondike lative of j-ours. Not much fuii having a mau o' the same name in the same town with you. Now last j-ear when I was in Dj-ea I was the only Jones in town, an' all letters directed to John Jones came straight to me ; then there came along another man named John Jones, so I had my mail directed ' J. P. Jones,' and by Josh ! if there did n't come along a fellow of same name an' very same initials, an' he a nigger workin' in the hotel ; so then I had mj' name written out in full — ^Jonathan Peter Jones — an' after that I never got no letters at all." At 9 P.M. a pleasant voice said, " I reckon I 'm the onl)^ neighbour that has n't called on you. I 'm Mrs. B , and the busiest woman you ever met ; moved over here from Dawson to be quiet, and indulge in literary work, but it 's no use ; everyone is so kind that there is never a moment in the day without visitors, and so I have n't had time to come before," and in stepped Mrs. B , dressed in an Indian buckskin suit with two rows of fringe around the bottom, a most picturesque figure ; and for the past two hours she has entertained us with such stories of hairbreadth escapes, — in Arizona, New Mexico, and coming over the Pass, — that they far surpassed in excitement the most thrilling tales ever written. Mrs. B told of being " on the Mexican trail," when her guide wanted to turn back through fear of the Indians, " but I got the drop on him first," said she ; " otherwise he would have abandoned me right there, and I never should have been able to find my way out again." In crossing the Rapids, her guide, in a fit of anger, took her into the most dangerous part, became frightened, lost control of his skiff, and shouted, " Paddle for your life, or you '11 be in h !" whereupon she replied coollj', " You '11 join me there unless you work as j'ou 've never worked before." Another story was that once, after a long day's tramp, she stopped at a solitary cabin in the wilderness to beg for food and .shelter. As the door was opened, she recognised (from a picture she had seen in one of the papers) a famous and long-sought-for criminal. However, she entered, was given The "Sick Boy" 133 food, and after resting, while talking to her host, betrayed in some way that she had discovered his identity, whereupon he sprang at her, knife in hand, crying, " Are you one of the she-devils come to bring a wretched mortal to justice?" She replied, " Do you think I 'd be mean enough to betray a man whose face shows the torture of his daih' and hourly punishment?" At that he fell back trembling like an aspen, and allowed her to depart in peace. We expressed great astonishment at her courage and daring, but she said that her love for work among the Indians was so great as to cause her to forget all fear and thought of self. Before leaving she asked if we would like to go on a stampede. We both jumped at the suggestion and were so wildly ex- cited at the plan she unfolded that we had little sleep that night. CHAPTER XV OUR FIRST DINNER IN DAWSON Wednesday, August 3d. ANOTHER rainy daj' ! Consequently, no stampede, as one would sink beyond the knee at each step. Isaacs was late, so E made some of her delicious biscuit and broiled some bacon, while I attended to the dining-room and fed and watered the many pets. Just as we finished, our man Friday entered, in time to do full justice to the remnants of our re- past, although, as we had furnished him on the previous day with a month's " grub," the agreement was that he was to do all his cooking and his eating in his own tent. So fearful were we, however, of losing our cook, butler, boatman, and Jack-of-all-trades, that we dared not enter a protest. We had lines stretched across the rear of the tent, and prepared to empty the trunks, which were covered with mould from having been stored in damp quarters while coming up the Yukon. We found many of our gowns ruined beyond re- demption, or in such a condition that it would be impossible to wear them again at home ; but the Alaska Commercial Company has the reputation of being just and honourable, so the loss will perhaps be made good to us on our return to San Francisco. Visitor number one, Mrs. B , followed bj- Mr. S , who came to assist in erecting the pigeon-cote. Isaacs was busy at work upon it when I said, " Mr. S will show you how to do it, as he has rai.sed and cared for fancy pigeons." " All right, ma'am," replied Isaacs ; " I '11 watch him," and down he sat, lighting his pipe and leaving 134 136 Two Women in the Klondike the work to Mr. S . Here I really did have courage to enter a protest, which fortunatel}^ was graciousl}' accepted. Visitor number three, Mr. T , who, finding us busy in the depths of yawning trunks, said that he would not disturb us, seated himself in an easy chair at the tent door, and en- joyed the magazines and papers, while we continued our work behind the screen. " Here 's your latest paper," we heard a couple of newsboj'S crying, as they went from tent to tent, causing quite a little excitement. California daily five- cent papers were freely purchased at one dollar each. We also bought the Dawson Klondike Nugget for fiftj- cents, for which the small news-vendors told us that thej' received twenty-five cents commission on the sale of each paper, showing that even here, the middleman reaps a larger benefit than the pro- ducer, whose expenses must be deducted. At noon M arrived, bringing with him some veal for luncheon, which he remained to share with us ; we had also some delicious potato balls, made from desiccated potatoes, and macaroni and cheese, in which we were indulging with ravenous appetites when Mrs. B appeared, bringing with her Dr. D , a Presbyterian clergyman. She left him seated with us at table, but not partaking of our food, while she went to prepare the luncheon for which she had in- vited him. The result of this visit was that we promised our tent for religious services next Sunday morning, at eleven o'clock, granting permission for notices to be posted both here and in Dawson proper. In the midst of an inter- esting conversation we heard a voice outside calling, " Din- ner is now ready in the Pullman car," and in this manner Mrs. B — — informed the clergyman that his time was up. " Is it the third and last call ? " we shouted, and upon hear- ing a reply in the affirmative Dr. D bade us an rcvoir. After luncheon we were informed b)' Isaacs that the pigeon- cote was ready to be lifted to the top of the four poles which he had embedded in the ground before the tent. " Now we '11 see," said he, " how many of j-our neighbours who 's been a-hoffering to do heverythink for you will 'elp me up with this 'eavy box. I expect they will all be deaf dumb, Our First Dinner in Dawson 137 and blind when I calls upon them," but he soon discovered his mistake, and the cote was soon high in air near the river bank, giving the Dawsonites and the West Dawsonites an- other novelty to admire. Two good hours it took to drive the pigeons out of the tent, after which the flap had to be closed, as we discovered for the first time how like cats they are in their love for home. This work finished, it was quite time to dress for our first dinner in Dawson. We had seen so much of .showy silk gowns and draggled feathers on the other side of the river, that we preferred the quiet elegance of a well-made " tailor suit" with " boiled collar " and silk tie. Just before starting, O came to in- form me that the " sick boy " would like to have a little of our Van Camp's soup, so over to his tent I went with it ; found him in good spirits and with a ravenous appetite. He expressed himself as delighted that we were ' ' going to dine with such nice people, and to see something of the better class of life." Just starting again, when Mrs. B came to tell us that she also had an invalid on her hands, who thought he could relish the same soup, a tin of which we gladl}' gave her. She said, " In this countrj', one must always take something in return for such a gift ; what shall it be ? " but we were speedilj^ out of sight and hearing, as we stepped into the boat with Isaacs in the role of boatman, and a powerful one he proved to be, easily rowing it against the tremendous current. Scarcely had we landed when such a tremendous shower came down that we rushed for protection to the vestibule of the store of the North American Transportation Company, where we found many others seeking shelter. All eyes were on our tent, which we were facing, and the comments were most amusing, as they wondered whether it belonged to the Salvation Arm}', a merry-go-round, or circus company, but as a gust of wind sprang up, some one shouted, " Oh, it 's a balloon ! they 're inflating it." As we anxiously watched it rising and falling with the wind, someone overhearing our remarks on the subject said, " Does it belong to you two ladies? Why would n't one half that size 'a' done yer ? Is 138 Two Women in the Klondike it Salvation Army ? " — " No ; but there are to be services there next Sunday morning." — " Free to all?" — " Most certainly." — " Well, then, we 're a-goin', an' manj- a boy who never goes to church '11 come, too, an' plenty o' others who want to see the inside o' that there tent." Just then our host, Mr. M , and his chum R dis- covered our retreat ; the rain stopped, and we were escorted to their one-roomed cabin. " I thought j'ou 'd like dining in here, and seeing just how we live, better than going to a restaurant, and so here we are," said M — — , as we took a high step into the room, gorgeous with a magnificent fur- robe in one corner, a library in the other, in the third an oil- stove and a few kitchen utensils, while facing that was the dining corner used for multifarious purposes. We were at once seated on empty grocery boxes for chairs at a pine table without a cover, according to the custom of the country. On tin plates before us were caviare and sardines on toast, which our host had previously prepared. There were two other guests, one of whom handed me an envelope containing a letter of introduction from a son of Judge B , who wrote : " It is a matter of much regret to me, that I am leav- ing here before your arrival, for I had looked forward to the pleasure of meeting you, and thought, moreover, that I might be of some assistance to you. However, I am sure I cannot do better than by introducing my friends of New York. Anything they can do for you and Miss V- I am sure they will be most glad to. With best wishes for a pleasant sojourn, I am sincerely yours." We were soon well acquainted, as F and C were college mates of E 's brother, and .she had already heard much of them through him. While we were chatting and enjoying the first cour.se, our host was putting a spoonful of soup stock into each of six tin cups filled with hot water ; he then passed them to us, say- ing, " Your medicine is now ready to be taken," and very good medicine it was, too. Our host then reached over to a frying-pan on the small stove, stirring with one hand a mess of oysters and cheese, while in the other he held his soup- I40 Two Women in the Klondike cup, from which he took an occasional sip. The pan was then lifted from the stove, and its contents distributed on our tin platters, and proving to be a most palatable con- coction. M ate with us, heating macaroni and toma- toes at the same time; and how we enjoyed it all ! After carefully cleaning our plates, we received upon them a bit of mince-pie (a great luxur}'), which had been nicely divided into six portions, with a tin}- scrap left over, so that no one should be rude enough to take the last piece, said M . How we laughed over this novel entertainment, and wished for photo- graphs of such an unusual spectacle as that of college-bred youths in rough miners' costumes enjoying this repast with more pleasure than the finest entertainment they could be given at home. We wondered what the different members of our families would have said could they have had but a momentary glimpse of the scene. Certainl}-, no one dining with all the luxury known to civilisation could have enjoyed delicacies of the best market with more appreciation, or had a more delightful feast of reason and flow of soul, than had we in our primitive surroundings, talking so rapidly that one scarce could wait for the other to finish a sentence. The dinner ended, our host suggested that we nmst " do the town," adding that there could never be a more auspicious moment than the present, when we had four such splendid big protectors. So off we started. I was soon hailed bj' a fellow-passenger of the Sf. Paid, Mr. J , who called out, " Oh, Mrs. H , do come in a moment and see Mr. P ." — " No, thanks, I 'm standing on ceremony and sha'n't be able to, as Mr. P has not called on me."^ " But he 's ill, poor fellow, and has been on his back for a fortnight at least." Down I rushed, and into one of the most luxurious cabins j'et visited, where poor P was lying on a couch covered with the usual fur robe. One has such deep sympathy for these ' ' boys ' ' so far away from home, but not from friends, for such evidences of kindness on all sides could scarcel}' be equalled elsewhere. P seemed really glad to see me, but I could not remain long on account of the friends waiting outside. He promised to let me know Our First Dinner in Dawson 141 if he required an5'thing that could not be purchased in town. J then called out, " Do take a peep into my cabin oppo- site and see how comfortable it is. Look out for your head ' ' ; but low as that poor head was bent, it was not sulEciently so for the entrance. J had a most beautiful air-mattress, which he wished to sell for thirty-live dollars — very cheap for Dawson — but E — ■ — and I have had all we want of such unsatisfactory couches, which are like bicycle tires, liable to be punctured at anj' time, or to let the air escape and leave one with aching bones in the morning. Again we started, and again we were stopped by another passenger, Mr. P of Virginia, and as we were anxious to learn his plans for invading the Koyukuk district there was another delay. We finallj' reached Main Street, which was as crowded and as light at ten o'clock as any fashionable promenade would have been at that hour in the daytime. At each corner we were stopped b}' greetings from former fellow- passengers, and, finally, by one of the men we had grub- staked, who said: " I 've been trying all day to reach West Dawson to see j-ou on important business, but could get no boat. There is a big stampede to — - — ■ Creek. I 've been out there and located claims for you two ladies, and have done enough work to be certain that the ground is rich, so I 've come in to pack a lot o' grub back, and want all your orders in case you should leave before I git through pro- spectin'. Anywa}', when you come back next j-ear you may look for big returns from these mines, even if I don't get to stake another." The party waited patiently while we listened to these glowing accounts and then rejoined our escorts, quite excited over the brilliant prospect. Our host then proposed that as our beverage at dinner had been water, we should stop at the Hoffman House, which he was anxious to show us, for a liqueur. We were told that this house belonged to " Nigger Jim," who had established it in Dawson because he had not been able to purchase the hostelry of the same name in New York, which had delighted him more than anything he had seen during his travels. Filled with curiosity we entered, joined by Mr. M 's 142 Two Women in the Klondike ^' big brother," as he calls him, to distinguish him from seven other fellows who bear the same relationship. We entered what would seem at home a small room, but which, here, is of unusually good size ; at the end was a stage where five musicians played Cavallcria R^tsticana, as well as I have ever heard it, the violinist being particularly good. At a large table in the centre sat " Nigger Jim " (whom I have pre- A DAWSON HOTEL. viously described, and who has the reputation of being " as clean and honest a white man as ever came into this camp"). He was surrounded by a dozen of his satellites, men and women, and was entertaining them in the grandest style known to Dawson. E — — and I being the "Chee Charkers " (otherwise known as strangers or people to be pre5^ed upon by sharks with wildcat schemes) attracted general attention. We remained long enough to hear two songs from a man with an exceed- Our First Dinner in Dawson 143 iiigly fine voice, and then were invited to the Combination Company Theatre. Our party had grown to eight, so we felt sufficiently well protected to follow the custom of the countrj- and enter the parquet through the barroom — a pro- ceeding so common here (in fact one has to wade through deep mud to reach the side entrance) that it caused no re- mark. We were then shown up a pair of stairs and told to take our choice of the unoccupied private boxes ; cnl}- four of our escorts could be comfortablj* accommodated, so we had two boxes, and the men continually changed places with one another. We could see and not be seen, protected as we were bj' the curtains. We looked down upon a sea of som- breros, not a woman in all the audience, as the boxes are re- served for them and their escorts. We were the only ones who sat with drawn curtains, consequently curiositj' was rife. We were more amused by watching the occupants of the boxes than with the performance on the stage, which was of the usual variety order, not very refined, with plenty of coarse jokes, but nothing absolutely vulgar. The j-oung lady from the first box left her escort and descended to the stage, and entertained us with a song of a poor little country maid on a visit to town, where the 3-oung men made to her many suggestions, to each one of which she sang, " Will it do me anj' harm?" in the most innocent way. This so pleased the ' ' boys ' ' in the audience, that they threw an abundance of chips and nuggets on the stage, all of which she carefully picked up, and stowed away — in her stocking. A jealous actress in the next box said in a stage-whisper, " She 'd never get so much money for her voice; it 's all be- cause the ' boys ' like to watch her trick o' stowin' it away." Never before have we seen so many drinks served. Each man in a box is expected to order one each for the entire party ; one dollar apiece is the price, whether lemonade, or something stronger. In a short time E and I had had six glasses of lemonade carried away untasted. We heard M giving the waiter an order which he seemed reluctant to obey, but finally did as he was told and handed us chips. "What is this for?" said we. "For entertaining the 144 Two Women in the Klondike gentlemen in the boxes," laughed our host, and then with a merry peal of laughter he explained that in this new theatre, also, the rule prevailed that if men ordered drinks the lady who inspired the order got a chip which she could afterwards " cash in." The waiter, having formerly been in the employ of our host, whispered to him, " What shall I do with the chips ? " — " Give them to the ladies." — " Oh, Mr. M , I would never dare to offer them to such ladies." Nor could he be persuaded to do so until M insisted upon our carrying away such souvenirs of the occasion. Shortly after, Mr. R and Dr. D appeared and in- sisted upon our gracing their box, to which request our host acceded. We were soon in a loge facing the stage, with two kerosene lamps between it and our view. After a short stay there, we were invited into another box, where " Nigger Jim" was introduced. On one thing he prides himself, that of never wearing a coat. He had on a beautiful silk London- made shirt, but a vest covered the greater part of it. As he leaned back against the wall, the " big brother " exclaimed, " Don't you spoil that shirt ; you promised to lend it to me for the ball to-morrow night." " Why did the}^ give you that name ? " said I, as he seated himself on a three-cornered wooden stool at my .side. " Just listen when he talks," said the " big brother," " and it won't take you long to dis- cover." He entertained me with a bit of his life in London, where, he said, all the men were bachelors, which saying of his is quoted all over Dawson. He was as courteous and as interesting as any man one could meet. On parting, he asked if he might come to church in the big tent on vSunday, and when I replied, " Shall be happy to see you then, if not before," he was so pleased that he forgot his society man- ners, and clapped me on the back, saying, " Good for you ! I 'm a-coming." The men all looked startled and anxious, as though they expected me to make a scene, but recognis- ing that the man had intended wo rudeness, and had simply forgotten himself, I bade him good-evening, and left some of our friends to explain to him that he must be less forget- ful in future. ill ^ 146 Two Women in the Klondike We did not get away just then, as there were others who requested a visit, so we entered another box, where we re- ceived a heart}^ welcome, the seats of honour, and, of course, drinks. We hstened to the mandolin-plaj-ing of one of the prettiest girls I have seen for an age. The men said : " Yon should encourage such a person as that ; beautiful as she is, she is about the onlj' virtuous girl in Dawson ; let us send for her, that you may speak a few kindly words, which she will greatly appreciate. Besides, you won't have seen this show nor be able to write it up unless you have an interview with Adele." Adele was sent for, and talked and behaved most modestlj' ; but when the drinks arrived she made a dash for the chips before thej' could be handed to us, besides stealing some extra ones from the waiter, who begged her to return them so that he would not be obliged to make them good ; but this thrifty young person had them tightly tied up in her handkerchief and no amount of persuasion or argument could induce her to return one. The men excused her by saying, " She knows that you only want to show them as souvenirs in New York, and one is sufficient for that, while to her they represent so much cash." The show over, the benches were quicklj- taken out and the hall cleared for a dance. We remained to look down upon a waltz and a quadrille, which were eminently proper in every respect. The men told us that this would last until five or six in the morning and that, notwithstanding the drinks which would follow each dance, it would be no more noisy at the termination than in the beginning of the even- ing. We had instructed Isaacs to wait for us at the Alaska Commercial Company's wharf, but saw liim among the dancers. Just as we were pointing him out, so that one of our escorts might go and fetch him, " Nigger Jim " appeared and said, " What ! you don't mean to say that 's your cook ! Why, he 's the grave -robber," and then told us such blood- curdling stories of incidents in his career that we were filled with dread, and glad when we reached the landing-place tO' find that he had not materialised, also delighted to accept the oflfer of M and R to row us across in a Peterboro'' Our First Dinner in Dawson 147 canoe, although I had solemulj' sworn never on any account to put foot in a canoe. Seated, however, in the very bottom of it on the coats of the men who rowed us, all alarm faded away, even when we were in- the midst of the powerful current. We found our tent almost collapsed from wind and rain, but it is always easj- to find a dry place, owing to its enor- mous size ; still, it is aggravating in the extreme to look at the Catholic church tent opposite, tight as a drum and beau- tifully put up, and compare it with the one put up by a so- called first-class workman at fifteen dollars a daj-. The tent-maker had written most elaborate and detailed in- structions, so that even in the Yukon he might be proud of his work, and begged us to have it so well arranged as to do him credit. But here it stands waving, swaying, swelling, dropping with the different light winds which take it in charge, looking a most slovenly affair, and criticised by people on both sides of the river. We have been in it a whole week now, and the man who put it up, though sent for many times, has not had pride enough, or a sufficiently keen sense of honour to come to our rescue ; so we emptied again the jelly-bags of water and " turned in." Just as we had fallen asleep, we heard a voice outside the tent saying, " I 've come to explain." — " All right, Isaacs, you ma\- ex- plain in the morning."—" But I was at the wharf on time only to find that someone had borrowed our boat and have been searching for it ever since." — " Very well, good-night ; you may go to your tent, and need not come early in the morning, as it is now very late." — " All right, mum, good- night." There were so many slack places in the canvas around and above us that the air came in on all sides and we nearly froze to death, although we were covered with as many wraps as we could bear the weight of. The extremes are very great. An icy coldness during the night and in- tense heat about the noon hour, so powerful are the raj's of the sun, and yet we are told that one never takes cold here. 148 Two Women in the Klondike Thursday, August 4th. Nine o'clock and no Isaacs ; ten, ditto ; at half-past ten he made his appearance and when he found us alread}- at break- fast said, " Wh}-, I thought j-ou ladies wanted to sleep late, and so I did n't dare to come before." Scarcely had we finished when Mrs. B ■ and Mr. T came to spend the morning, and laughed most heartily over our experiences of the previous evening. Mrs. B said, " That is just such a trip as I ought to take for my newspaper work, but, being alone, never have had the courage to do so ; j-ou must let me go with you should you ever do the town again." We faith- full)' promised, although not expecting to repeat the expedi- tion ; at least, not more than once before our departure, and not even then, unless there should be something new and particularlj' worthy of record. When we told triumphantly about the checks we had received our guests looked at each other and Mr. T said, " I see you ladies do not recog- ni.se the meaning of many things, and treat all experiences in this part of the world as a huge joke ; be careful that this be not misinterpreted, as those you meet may not understand you as we do." While deeply appreciating this kindly ad- vice, we felt, however, quite certain that no action of ours could be misinterpreted. As Isaacs left the tent on an errand, Mr. T observed, " You did not get your man Fridaj' very early this morning, and might have had him an hour later still, had it not been for the fact that when I heard him shout from his tent (which adjoins mine), at eight o'clock to know the time, again at nine, and again at ten, each time rolling over for another snooze, I called out to one of my neighbours, " I hear the ladies in the big tent are looking for another conk." There was a great scrambling, and, instantly after, the head of your major-domo appeared, saying, ' What 's that about the big tent?' 'Oh, nothing,' I carelessly replied; but the effect was that desired." After luncheon M appeared. " Well, I heard about you last night," said he. " What ? " — " Oh, that }'ou were invited to occupy every box in the Combination Company." Shortlj' after came another 150 Two Women in the Klondike guest, saying, " What a sensation j-ou two ladies made last night; can't help it if you were behind curtains all the time. Every nice man in the house wanted to be introduced, as they had n't seen so nuich style since leaving home ten years ago." After dinner M and Dr. C rowed across the river to spend the evening with us. Reminiscences of Bar Har- bour were first indulged in, and Dr. C asked if I had met his mother there during the summer of 1896 ? He knew so many of our friends, and M told us such a number of interesting tales of life in Alaska, that our closing hour, eleven o'clock, came all too soon. As they were about to leave, the pigeons flocked into the tent, and we all tried to catch them and get them out to the cote. M 's face fell, as he stood guiltily before us with the tail of a pigeon in his hand. " How could I help it ? " said he ; " she flew away from her tail." In the afternoon Mrs. B took us to the comfortable little cabin which the " boys " had built for her, showed us most interesting souvenirs of her voyages, and read us from the Klondike Nugget the description of her house-warming. CHAPTER XVI WE BECOME FREE MINERS" Friday, August 5lh. AS the tent flap was turned back this morning to admit the sunlight, for which we have never before been sufficiently grateful, the " sick boj' " appeared to renew his thanks for our kindness and to return the dishes and steamer chair. His gratitude was so much greater than the little we had been able to do for him warranted, that we protested against further thanks, made him rest, and tried to persuade him not to row over to town until his health was fully re- established ; but our advice was as useless as it generally is when man has determined upon a plan. Immediately after the departure of John Jones, otherwise the " sick boy," Mr. S arrived. This most picturesque-looking Vir- ginian, whom Mrs. B calls with a smile, " too lazy for words," said that he expected to go on a stampede in the evening — a real one — not, as he had done on several occa- sions, make a pretended start, with such hustle and bustle that all the boys in town followed in his footsteps, to be left in the lurch, but a quiet, secret affair. As he said au rcvoir, however, he remarked that he might back out at the last moment, unless he got fine news from his partner. Au In- dian next appeared in the doorway, and is the only person whom we have not greeted pleasantly since our arrival ; but our fear of the tribe is so great that we sent Ivan to lie across the doorway, but this had no effect upon the noble red man, who continued to gaze until he had fully satisfied his curiosity. 151 152 Two Women in the Klondike Then came from across the river Dr. D -, to tell us that he was soon to leave for the Koj'ukuk ; of his brilliant pro- spects ; the congenial society in the partj-, and to beg us to call on his wife on our return, and give her details which no letter can supplj'. Another visit from Mrs. B , who ex- pressed much astonishment that we should have been in- ho.spitable to so good a member of the tribe as the lydian who had recently honoured us. She told us of the country about the Tanana, for which she is soon to depart, where there are said to be cannibals, and that there is a reward of forty thousand dollars for anyone who penetrates the region, as some of our worst criminals are in hiding there. She has been offered the assistance and escort of the marshal or police representatives, but considers that w'ould be but an impedi- ment, as she can do much better work alone. The only thing she dreads is being deserted in an unknown country by her guides, but she added, " I can feel instinctively when they are afraid to go farther, and when there is no doubt of their intention, if I can get the drop on them first, I should not hesitate to kill them and feed them to my dogs." We requested her to tell the Doctor of her trip through the rapids, when her guide shouted to her, " Paddle for your life; there 's only a sixteenth of an inch between us and h ." At two o'clock Mrs. B took us over to Dawson to pur- chase a miner's certificate. Mr. T very kindly placed himself and boat at our disposal, and we called upon Isaacs to help paddle and carry our parcels. A Peterboro' canoe, which I had vowed never to enter, now seems most enjoy- able, although I do not dare to use the seats, feeling much safer in the bottom of the boat. Dr. C met us at the landing and accompanied us to interview the man who put up the tent. He seemed horrified to know of all the trouble and anxiety we had undergone, and said that no me,ssage had ever been given him until the previous day, when he had inunediately promised to rectifj' the matter ; would leave his work then and there, find his partner, and attend to it, even should it take all night. From there we We Become "Free Miners" 153 went to the other end of town, where we took out a miner's certificate at ten dollars, which read as follows : Date of issue. No. 23, log. Dominion of Canada, Free Miner's Certificate Place of issue Dawson. Non-transferable. Valid for one year only. This is to certify that Mary E. Hitchcock of Dawson has paid me this day the sum of ten dollars and is entitled to all the rights and privileges of a Free Miner under any Mining Regulations of the Government of Canada for one year from the 5th day of August, 1898. This certificate shall also grant to the holder thereof the privilege of Fishing and Shooting, subject to the provisions of any Act which has been passed or which may hereafter be passed for the pro- tection of game and fish ; also the privilege of cutting Timber for actual necessities, for building houses, boats, and for gen- eral mining operations ; such timber, however, to be for the exclusive use of the miner himself, but such permission shall not extend to timber which may have been heretofore, or which may hereafter be granted to other persons or corpor- ations. Countersigned, Thomas Fawcett. To be countersigned by the Gold Commissioner, Mining Recorder, or by an Officer or Agent of the Department of the Interior. Jas. a. Smart, Deputy of the Minister of the Interior. While waiting for the certificate the following notice pasted on the wall attracted our attention : 154 Two Women in the Klondike MINING RECORDER'S OFFICE, Dawson, June i^ — gS Notice Know all mens by this present. ... I am interested in one half of the claim No. 32 thirty-two below low dis- covery on Dominion. I do not accept, no bargain, no compromission of my half undivided interest. Jose Darole. Mrs. B introduced us to the two young ladies in the office of the commissioners, who told us how much we had missed by not attending the church festival of the pre- vious evening. Mr. F , who was holding court, left long enough to come down-stairs and be presented to us as the widow of Admiral ( !) H and the grandniece of Presi- dent Van B . The interview was pleasant, though exceed- ing short, as the court was waiting. From there we went to the office of Mr. W , the Crown Timber Agent, as Mrs. B thought it very important that we should know and be properly introduced to the officials before starting on our claim hunting. Our next visit was to our Consul, on official business. There w'e were joined by Mr. R and Dr. D , and the Consul opened a bottle of " sherry," which we had to drink from tin cnps. As he offered me water for the " sheny," my suspicions were aroused and I tasted it warily, only to find it was old Bourbon, which I politely but firmly declined. We did a little shopping at the Alaska Commercial Com- pany's warehouse, which is headquarters for everyone in town, where we chatted with a dozen or more acquaintances. On going out we saw the utter collapse of our tent. Dr. C at once offered to row E across the Yukon, Isaacs assisting, while I went on with Mrs. B to keep an ap- pointment with one of the Si.sters at the hospital, stopping to inquire for the mail, which arrived yesterday, (Thursday), hut which will not be ready for di,stributiou before ^Monday ! The reception-room of the hospital is the most comfortable, I We Become " Free Miners 155 -^^^f^ homelike spot yet visited, with its stove, carpet, curtains, desk, and rial chairs. Father greeted us most cordialh-, and sent for Sister , who had been at vSt. Josephs, in Victoria, B. C, and who gave me pleasant news from the dear Sisters there. At the wharf we found Isaacs, but no boat ; someone had bor- rowed it, and there was none for us to hire. After applying to a young man in a fine- looking Peterboro' and being courteously but decidedly refused on the ground that the boat belonged to an official, Mrs. B • asked as one having Masonic rights, and before we had time to breathe the boat was ours. On reaching the other side, what a sight met our gaze ! I felt INDIAN WOMAN OF THE KLONDIKE. who had been evicted for n o n - pa y m e n t of rent. Our tent was flat on the ground, our furniture and house- hold goods, books, magazines, music, even my beloved diar}', were scattered all over the ground, while the two car- penters, aided by our kindly neighbours, were pulling at the tent, ropes, and tackle with all their force. Having break- fasted at ten or later, we had gone to town without luncheon, consequently were in a starving condition. Our neighbours invited us to partake of their hospitality, but as each one has a limited supply of provisions, we felt some delicacy 156 Two Women in the Klondike about accepting, and said that our tent would be ready in a few moments. Mrs. B proposed that while waiting we should walk over to Sheep Camp to have a look at some fur robes which were offered for sale, — one at one hundred dol- lars, the other at eightj'-five dollars, — as the man who had them was " going out," and had never used them. This necessitated a tramp to a point farther than I had ever ex- plored on our " island," along the edge of the water. We passed dozens of tents from which we received kindly salu- tations, reached the small chicken farm, and beyond that a place where cattle had been killed ; making a detour we ap- proached a good-sized pen filled with sheep. Still on, pas.s- ing an occasional cabin, until we entered a clearing in which were comfortable quarters. In the open air, at a rough table, partaking of their even- ing meal, sat three men in shirt-sleeves. Thej- rose as we approached and cordially welcomed Mrs. B , who intro- duced me as the owner of the big tent, a globe-trotter who had been many times around the world, and was now in search of new experiences. ' ' I hardly suppose so grand a lady would condescend to take supper with rough butchers," said the spokesman ; " but it would be a great pleasure." " Condescend ! why, I 'm simply starving ; my tent 'sdown, so I can get nothing to eat for an hour at least, and if you had not invited me, I should have asked myself, or have stolen something that smells so good." This little speech so pleased the miners, that they gave me the best seat on the bench. One helped me to salmon, another to bread, and the third to fried potatoes filled with onions, and though the latter have always been avoided by me they were now eaten with hearty reli.sh, and never was a meal more thoroughly enjoyed. The men apologised again and again for having no butter, and offered to cook us a bit of moose-steak ; they could hardly understand that we preferred finding them and their meal just as we did. We asked for a leg of mutton and some brains, which latter cost one dollar apiece, but they were not able to fill our order until next week. They in- sisted, however, on our taking as a small souvenir a package We Become "Free Miners" 157 of sheep's tongues and a couple of brains each. Then we asked to see the fur robes, but the lowest price for me was two hundred and fift_v dollars for the two, a beautiful h'nx robe and a wolf robe. " Whj- should j-ou ask Mrs. B one hundred and eighty-five dollars and me two hundred and fifty dollars ? ' ' queried I. ' ' We told Mrs. B that we paid one hundred dollars for one and eighty-five dollars for the other, and she did not add to that freight at twelve cents a pound, and the profit that one naturall}- expects from such an investment," said the honest butcher. " I can sell the lynx to-morrow for two hundred dollars, and in the winter it will bring three hundred dollars, but I don't care to keep and bother with them, as I 'm ' going out.' " After much argument, as he was unwilling to deduct one iota from his price, he agreed to bring them over for E 's inspection, which would give me an opportunity for consulting the fur experts who were raising our tent. On our return our friends carefull}' examined the robes, thought one particu- larly fine, but advised us to see first what we could do in town, so my friends the butchers offered to leave them with us until we had tried them and examined others. Now I know why they are so highly recommended for use here, as never have I had anything so perfect in which to sleep ; no shivering, no ic)% penetrating wind, no fear of rheumatic pains. To roll up in a lynxskin makes the couch soft and downy, and keeps one so warm and " comf}-, " that it seems like being once more among home luxuries. 10 P ."»., and everyone is still working at this mammoth tent. Our neighbour, Mrs. T , insisted upon E 's sharing her supper with her, and invited me also so cordially that to accept a bit of nice hot buttered toast was the least I could do, while Mrs. B ■ exclaimed, " I 'm jealous, as you refused to dine with me." The pigeons are causing the greatest amount of trouble. Al- though the cote is filled with seed, the bag of grain and water on top of their boxes, and ever5'thing arranged to tempt them, nothing will induce them to leave the tent ; they were driven out of it only to reappear on the top, and 158 Two Women in the Klondike there lliej- sat clinging to the ridge, refusing to fly. As the tent was lifted and lowered, thej- were off one moment to be back the next, and, finally, as it was gradually tightened into place, and someone stood at the door to keep them away while the furniture was being brought in, down the}^ came through the small hole through which the poles pass, light- ing ou everything — beds, blankets, music-box, even on the stove. A few were caught and held prisoners in the cote by a curtain which was tacked up, but the others fought hard to remain, and remain thej' did, much to our disgust, as they are now so tame that they light on the bed in the morning to beg for food. Such a scene of destruction ! — the shelves down, kitchen utensils on the ground, ribbons, ties, toilet-articles, no end of small things trampled under foot, and our beautiful tent badly torn in two places ! To say that we were discouraged puts it very mildly, particularly after being told that to make the tent perfect, and so that it would not leak, we should be obliged to purchase, or have made, tackle and rings, and have the entire thing dropped again with the same moving out of furniture. As we expect to " go out " in about three weeks, we decided to accept the situation and get along as best we can. Some of our hard-working assistants remained to par- take of a little beef-soup, a bit of salmon, some potatoes, and cake. Saturday, August 6th. Trying to make order out of havoc is an unpleasant task with the mercury at 80°, but we close tightly our tent flap, so that those whom we should otherwise be glad to see may think us still in the arms of Morpheus, and work with a will. Isaacs, busily engaged in once more putting up kitchen shelves and utensils, looks for newspapers with which to cover them. Holding out one he asks, " 'Ave you read this, mum?" and then exclaims, " 'Oly Moses, May 30th ! 'ave you been on the road ever since then ? Well " (sympatheti- cally), " I .should think you icoiild be tired." " May we come in ? " said the voice of John Jones, " I want to make you acquainted with Mr. M ," and one of the great men i6o Two Women in the Klondike of the Klondike entered, was made welcome, and remained for an hour or more, telling stories so interesting that we deeply regretted when it was time for him to take his de- parture. John Jones said, " I was tellin' Mr. M as how you ladies was so very kind to me whiles I was ill, and as how you wanted to see a ' clean-up,' and pan some gold your- self ; so he is going Monday to one of his mines and has come to invite you to go with him." — " Just what we 've longed to do, but we never expected to have so fine an opportunitj-. Please explain the road, however, so that we may judge whether we are capable of such an undertaking. ' ' " Mj^ plan is to start Mondaj' between noon and four o'clock," said M , " go over the trail two miles to the ferry, cross the Klondike River, and land at the mouth of Bonanza ; there Miss V may take a horse, and if you can walk three miles an hour that will be a sufficiently rapid gait ; after twelve miles we reach the Grand Forks Hotel, Bonanza. You will find it very rough ; the men are only screened off from the ladies, but j-ou can rest assured that every man would defend you with his life in case of need." " Oh, I intend to take my tent along for the ladies," said John, " it 's just big enough for the two of them and they '11 be much more comfortable than shut in with us men. " " The next morning," continued M , " we '11 take a short walk before breakfast down to some mines very near there and see a clean-up, and you can pan out your first gold ; later in the day we '11 go to B 's clean-up, from there to my claim at El Dorado, only three miles ; then to another claim of mine at El Dorado, which yields pretty good-sized nuggets. You know ten claims make a mile, so you can easily tell how much you will have to walk there ; there are some bench claims near that have not been located, so that you and ]\Iiss V can stake them (now that you have your miner's licence), and return to the Forks that night, unless you care to go on and stake on Dominion and Sulphur." We were filled with delight and excitement at the prospect, particu- larly as the rain had prevented us from going on the first stampede, not that we minded the rain, but it made the We Become "Free Miners" i6i ground in such a condition that told us his horse sank to its neck in mud. On E 's return from Dawson she said that someone had told her he had seen manj- letters for us, but that it ■would be impossible to get them for several daj-s, as we must wait until everj'thing had been sorted. Mr. T made lis a short visit to inquire if our tent were in a satisfactory ■condition ; then came Mr. J , bringing us a wood-stove, saying that we reallj' ought to have it, even if we were obliged to cut a hole in the tent for a stove-pipe. " Well, how 's the tent to-day ? " called out the man who was doing his best to make a bad job good. " Me and my partner came over to give it another stretch." " Wh}-, I saw you going over the Rapids," said Mrs. B to the partner ; " how soon did you get over? " " Oh, I had a hard time and many experiences," replied he. " The first night, as I was tramping an' it was kinder dark, a man riz up from behind a pile o' logs and had the drop on me, but, after he 'd talked with me and found out how honest I was, he put down his gun and tole me he was a-layin' for a man what had broken into three diflferent caches and stole a lot o' stuff", an' says he, ' I 'd give twenty-five dollars to get the stuff" back, an' another twenty-five on top o' that to get a licence to shoot him, an' as I can't get it I 'm goin' to shoot him anyhow.' Yes, viarm, I 'm a Canadian, an' I ain't proud of it when I sees the taxes for ever}' durned thing the_v 're a-puttin' on poor miners what works for a livin' in a countrj- very few of the officials would go to, and risk git- tin' frozen feet, legs, and arras, or being frozen to death ; then I tell you, marm, I 'm ashamed o' bein' a Canadian, but I must get on with my job. Ladies, we 're a-goin' to keep this tent tight if we have to stretch it every night in the week, an' it sha'n't cost j-ou a penny besides theoriginal price agreed upon, cause we want it right, an' it would 'a' been right if that there secretary, or whatever he is, of yours had given us the instructions an' told us to go b}' them, just as you wanted us to do ; but now he 's lost the instructions and we 've got to do the best we can." i62 Two Women in the Klondike Ivan and I went for a short walk on " our island " after a nine o'clock dinner. The first thing which attracted my attention was a notice tacked on the dove-cote that had been placed there by the Rev. Dr. D : " Presbyterian Church. " Sunday service in the large tent at ii a.m. " Everyone cordiall}' invited." Our walk was a short one. As we reached the springs which prevented me from crossing, and which is the bound- ary line, Mr. T called out, " Were you looking for me ? This is my tent, the first one on this side of the spring. All right, if I can be of no service to you I '11 go in and cook my supper." Two miners hailed me from another tent with, " Excuse me, marm, but must v\'e dress up to come to church to-morrow ? If so, we shall not be able to at- tend service, 'cause our dress suits are in our other trunk." We all laughed at the joke, as few have trunks, and they seemed relieved to hear, " We are all to attend in our jerseys — no boiled shirts or collars." Mrs. T then came to the door of her tent saying, " I hear you are going with M and Jones to locate claims and see some clean-ups ; the)^ took Mrs. H and me last time ; it is the most wonderful experience imaginable, and we enjoyed it so much that I 'm wild to go again. People at home could never understand the wonders of it." Just then we were joined by Mr. O , who presented a Mr. H , and another Klondike millionaire stood before us, with a dazzling diamond on his shirt-front, and another of enormous size on his finger. After a few moments' chat, Mrs. B called out that she was coming to pay us another visit, and so I returned. " It 's a pity to bore 3-ou so often," said she, " but I feel so lonely and homesick to-day that I can't sta}' by myself, and thought perhaps you 'd give me a little music. Seeing j'ou and talking of home has quite un- nerved me. I don't mind when I 'm among the Apaches — then I enjoy their wild life, and forget homesickness." We Become Free Miners 163 "May we come in?" said Mr. O , entering with Mr. H , the Dane. " You are just in time to help us select the airs to be played for church servnce to-morrow. It is too dark to read this fine writing, so we must trj' them all. The committee listened, selecting The Lost Chords Nearer My God to Thee, and Portuguese Hymn, but Mr. H was ruled out as he pleaded for Strauss's i?/«f Danicbe. He told us that he left Denmark man}- years ago and never has had a home- sick day ; but he expects to "go out" this year. After they left, Mrs. B remained until midnight, and as the moon's rays came through the open door of the tent and we listened to her thrilling experiences, time was forgotten, also the cold chills of night, as we wondered at the daring courage of one lone woman. I forgot to say that early in the evening one of my butcher friends arrived bringing me a small leg of mutton, for which he asked the modest sum of eight dollars. This is probably not very high for Klondike prices. On seeing a mirror he exclaimed, " Oh, do let me look in that. I have n't seen one for years." After a long glance, he said with a sigh, " As ugly as ever ! My own wife would n't know me with this beard." Sunday, Ausjust yth. When Isaacs arrived this morning, he brought us the news that man}- of the " boys " wanted to come to service but did not dare — lest they should meet some of our " city friends " in store clothes, so we instructed him to make the rounds and say that all had been requested to wear jerseys, women as well as men. Shortly after we heard, to our horror, the loud ringing of a cow-bell, and a voice crying " Church, church — no collection and no dress-up. Mind and don't be late ; service in half an hour. No collection." It was too late to stop our zealous assistant, who returned with the bell behind his back and slipped in the back door. We threw our shawls and robes on the grass, and placed the three steamer-chairs, some empty boxes, and a few benches made by our Jack-of-all-trades. The British and American flags 164 Two Women in the Klondike were draped back of the pulpit, which consisted of a pine table and a bench made from a box. This was decorated with some \-ards of mosquito-netting loaned by a neighbour. We placed a Bible on the stand and Mrs. B- supplied a big tin basin of flowers. Facing the pulpit we had an old screen and, as that was not large enough to hide the kitchen and sleeping apartments from view, Isaacs strung a rope across on which we draped thirty yards of cheese-cloth which we had brought for other purposes. To this drapery we pinned pictures of Dewey, Sampson, Sigsbee, and General Lee; also photographs of dear ones at home. First came the Rev. Dr. D , with two men and a large package of hymn-books. Then the miners, many with noble faces, began to arrive, throwing themselves about on the grass in all-unconscious picturesqueness. Mrs. T and Mrs. B were the only other women present at the open- ing, which was as solemn as it could have been in the grandest church in the land. My seat was a box placed close to the screen so that I could slip behind and start the music at a sign from the clergyman. We began with the orchestral cylinder Prayer from Moses. The entire service was most inspiring, and the sermon good and earnest. As the clergyman, who evidently put all his heart and soul into his work, spoke of being " Nearer my God to Thee," the orchestra's solemn strains were heard and after that the hymn was taken up by the chorus of miners and those who had come late — Mr. and Mrs. C and Miss C , Mr. and Mrs. D , Mr. M- , Mr. R , and Dr. C , who had all rowed across from Dawson. As they sang, the miners, who had not the courage to enter, stood outside the door with bowed heads. Only one unfortunate mistake oc- curred ; as Dr. D was reading a chapter about Joseph and his coat of many colours, a pigeon perched on the music- box of the Criterion and started once more Nearer my God to Thee. There was no stopping the hymn until the end, but there was not a smile, and it was listened to with as dignified attention as though it had occurred in the right place. At the close, Dr. D spoke of the ladies who had so kindly We Become Free Miners 165 loaned their tent, and said that he would be more than glad to officiate regularly in case they would extend the same hospitality in future. Those who would attend were asked to raise their hands, and all hands were immediatel}' high in air. After the service, one of the miners said to me, " Beg your p.irdon, madam, but by what mission are you sent out ? ' ' Mr. O remained to lunch, and then rowed E over to town. " I see no bell ; is anyone at home ? " asked Mr. S , of the Alaska Commercial Company, as he handed out a budget of letters from home. " Was at the Post-office, saw these, and asked if I might take them out, as otherwise you would not have had them for several days. ' ' We ap- preciated his kindness all the more when we discovered that he had been obliged to hire a boat in order to render us this service. We gave our first dinner, and this is what we read of it in i\\Q Klondike Ntiggci, almost before the entertainment came to an end. A DINNER TO THE CONSUL-GENERAL " Mrs. A dill! ml {\) H and Miss V , the two dis- tinguished ladies who are ' taking in ' the Klondike just as they have taken in Paris and London, gave a select dinner in honour of the United States Consul-General M , now stationed at Dawson. The ladies are in camp over at Daw- son, and the dinner was given in what was probably the largest tent canvas in the Klondike. The gentlemen invited to the affair were Dr. D , Messrs. A , M , W , and R . Mrs. B , the popular scientific lady stationed for the winter at West Dawson, aided the two hostesses in entertaining the guests of the evening. The ladies carry their own chef and the repast was much enjoyed. After dinner the party adjourned to the new cabin of Mrs. B , and it was there that the late reports from the scene of war were received. The partj^ immediately devoted themselves to adoration of ' Old Glory,' and the cheers were enough to alarm that peaceful neighbourhood." i66 Two Women in the Klondike Under ordinary circumstances it would be bad form for a hostess to give her menu or to refer to the food presented to guests, but I reall\' must state how well we lived in that corner of the world where so many are supposed to be starving. 1st. Anchovy on soda -biscuit. 2nd. Mock-turtle soup. 3rd. Roast moose and potato-balls. 4th. Escalloped tomatoes, prepared so deliciously by E that each one asked for a second helping. 5th. Asparagus salad, for which I made the French dressing. 6th. Peach ice-cream, and " tho' I do say it as should n't," for I made it, it was so good that all were helped twice and some thrice. 7th. A very delicious cake made by Isaacs. 8th. E 's French drip coffee — and all washed down by sparkling Moselle. After dinner we adjourned to Mrs. B 's cabin, where we sat on her home-made divan, on benches, and on fiour-bags, and told stories until nearly midnight. li^msm CUiifi^ CHAPTER XVII VISITING MINES WITH A KLONDIKE KING Monday, August Sth. JOHN JONES came after breakfast to tell us what to pack. After he had taken his departure, Isaacs said, " I hope you 're going to take me with j-ou, marm, to do the cooking and for to carry the pack, as I don't think you '11 care for what you '11 get to eat along the trail, and I can carry from sixty to a hundred pounds. Besides, I 'd like to stake some claims, too, for when A M tells you where to stake, you 're sure to make your pile. That 's a mighty fine man for you to know. He 's got fifty millions, and knows more about mining than any man in this country. I 've known him all my life just as well as I 've known that parson that Mrs. B brought to call on you ; and yet I can't go up and speak to them because you ladies seem to think that I ought to stay in the kitchen instead o' coming in and talking to the visitors that I know. Holj' Moses ! you don't realise how embarrassing it is for me only to be able to .speak to them on ' the outside.' You see as 'ow I 've never done anything menial before, and don't quite hunderstand what 's expected of me, and what 's not, and when Isaacs sees these neighbours o' yours as 'e 's known all 'is life a-sittin' in your easy chairs an' a-playin' the grand gentlemen, an' 'e who 's as good as they, an' perhaps better, a-standin' hout be'ind the kitchen stove, while they 're a-puttin' on hairs in the parlor — well ! 't ain't natural, and it 's enough to drive any fellow mad ! Now don't you bother about putting things to rights, and pre- 167 1 68 Two Women in the Klondike paring anything else for this hexcursion ; it '11 give me pleasure if you '11 just sit down and go on with your writin' an' leave everything to me, an' not look up for 'alf an hour, an' then you '11 be surprised to find out what an 'andy fellow Isaacs is, an' Isaacs won't interrupt you again, be- cause 'e knows you don't like to 'ear conversation when you 're a-writin'." Five minutes later. " I often thinks that there 's a great deal in inheritance," continued the irrepressible. " Now me mother was verj' tasty, an' me father was an R.A., that means member o' the Royal Hacademy, an' as for me, why I just rose from shop-boy to window-dresser because I had so much taste," and Isaacs fastened a picture here and put a decoration there on the screens about the tent. " Yer like to lost me yesterday. Missus ; yer see, while I was on the other side, in Dawson, I sees an Indian in 'is birch canoe, so says I to myself, ' Now Isaacs, 'ere 's your chance ; yer likely to get in a tight place some o' these days, when yer '11 want ter know 'ow to manage a birch-bark canoe ; because it 's like riding a bicycle, j^er know, marm, it do take a long while to learn how to balance yourself, so I got the Hindian to let me try it, and, by Jove! I did it without any trouble or helse you would n't 'a' 'ad the good fortune to 'a' got your Hisaacs back.'" We lunched hurriedly, after which the neighbours came to inquire what they could do for our pets during our ab- sence. Mrs. T kindly offered to care for them, and to take charge of the tent. Jones had a boat in waiting at the foot of the bank. Isaacs carried the pack, consisting of fur robes, blankets, flannel wrappers, and toilet articles. We were soon across the Yukon, where we were met by " Big A ." E went to purchase a cowboy hat for the trip, and Isaacs a harness for his back, so we appointed the usual place of rendezvous, the Alaska Commercial Com- pany's stores, from which point we were to be ready for the start in half an hour. Many of our friends were there to help E on to the horse and to see the start. ' ' No horse for me," said I ; " walking is far more enjoyable." So I70 Two Women in the Klondike E rode alone in her glon-, while M , Jones, and I tramped by the side of the horse when the road was suffi- ciently wide, or single file, with Isaacs in harness bringing up the rear. At first, it was a gradual ascent on a good road ; we were soon high on the hills back of Dawson, and were astonished to see so many log houses, while many more were being built. After a long tramp, we reached a bridge CROSSING THE FERRY. of logs. E 's horse forded the stream, while I clung tightly to the hands of M and Jones, who assisted me in maintaining my balance, as the logs threatened to turn at each step. Then we paid one dollar each to cross in a scow on which even E 's horse was carried. We stopped a moment on reaching the other side to photograph a tavern, and were then off on a corduroy road which the miners had made, winding round beautiful mountains, looking down upon gorgeous scenery, over stones, through springy moss, Visiting Mines with a Klondike King 171 then over more log- bridges, deep bogs, precipices, until we reached Half-way House, eight miles, where we had supper of roast moose, mashed potatoes, corn, cabbage, delicious bread and butter, Spanish and apple-pie. The meal finished, Mr. A , of Chicago, and Mr. were presented to us. They were also on their way to stake claims, but concluded that they had done enough for one day and so pitched their tents. How proud we were to be able to outdo them as we continued our tramp. We next met a Mr. C — — , who had just found some rich ground while prospecting, and told us where to stake ; lie also showed us a large piece of rock filled with gold, which he had taken from a mine near the Forks, and from which the owners were getting a thousand dollars a day, but being " Chee Charkers " (newcomers) and homesick, they wanted to " go out " and would sell for thirteen thousand dollars. He had n't the money, but if anyone would " put it up " and let him take charge, he was sure that he could soon dig out a fortune for " all hands." A man from Illinois next joined us on the trail ; said he was working for wages, but had had time to do some prospecting and to stake out a number of claims for himself — some of them very rich — but he found it impossible to get into the Recorder's ofiice to record them. He offered a third in each to anyone who could have it done for him. While E , on horseback, and M bj' her side, were following the horse-trail, our Illinois man said that he could conduct us through high dry ground on the other side of the river. Once there, he said that he should like to tramp with us, as it did him so much good " to hear the sound of a lady's voice." At last came the " yodel," which meant that someone in our party was exhausted and wanted to pitch tent for the night. We joined forces at Gordon's Camp, where we were surrounded by tents. While Isaacs was pitching ours, M took us to the cabin of Mr. and Mrs. to pay a short visit. Their quarters were nice and comfortable, and even the baby had a modern cradle into which we peeped, but, as it was late, we bade them good-night the moment 172 Two Women in the Klondike Isaacs announced that all preparations had been made for us. Pine boughs had been spread on the ground, and our robes and blankets over them. After crawling in, M and Jones lighted a bonfire at our door, and then sought the cabin in which they had been offered bunks. No fear felt we, though surrounded on all sides by un- known men. One has but to know the honest miner to recognise that he is ever ready to assist woman, and that sad OUR TENT ON THE TRAIL. would be the fate and speedy the death of one who should offer her an insult. As the bonfire died out, we watched the new niooti rising over the mountains opposite, and light- ing the valley below, and felt that the wonderful and beauti- ful works of the dear Lord are everywhere present. Tuesday, August gtb. My ears were greeted on awakening with, " Flour 's gone to hell ! What fool tied this horse up here ! We '11 make Visiting Mines with a Klondike King 1 7o M give us another bag," and then came the folding of tents, the tramping of men and the departure of the pro- spectors for another day's work towards fortune or disap- pointment. As we continued our tramp, E 's horse floundered and stumbled so in the mire and over the rocks that, after several hairbreadth escapes she also concluded to walk ; so Isaacs was relieved of his pack and the horse re- ceived the burden. At lo a.m. we reached a restaurant at the forks of the road. We four sat on a bench and, with Isaacs at our feet, devoured bread and butter and coffee. When the irrepressible said, " Had no time to wash my face ; is it dirty?" he was snubbed, if he could have been, b}- hearing, " No time to look at it." Another long tramp over rolling stones, mossy grounds, narrow ledges on the edge of a precipice from which a tiny rolling stone would have pre- cipitated us to instant destruction, but the unvarying kind- ness and assistance of M and Jones made us repress all signs of fear for very shame. We came to sluice-boxes with signs prohibiting people to walk therein, but the owners of which invariably gave us the desired permission, which we enjoyed until we reached Bonanza, where we " panned out " and shouted with joy as the stones and gravel disappeared and we saw the rich gold gathering in the bottom. We were promised another pan on our return, so, as the miners were just about to blast, we went on to Skookum Creek, in which M had also a half-interest. Here we were filled with excitement and joy as our pans came to seven and ten dollars each, and we picked up a few nuggets besides. Then came the worst trip of all, to Grand Forks Hotel, which we reached about midday, ready to drop into the first seat that offered itself A fee to the cook secured a tub of hot water, which was most soothing to my poor blistered foot. Here we met a large party of miners, owners of several mines. An agent from the Alaska Commercial Company, soliciting orders, had an excellent luncheon cooked by a Japanese, who confided to us that he had been nine years in the country and was now " going out " and that almost every customer had giv^en him a nugget. 174 Two Women in the Klondike In the meantime Jones, instead of resting, had gone to the thirteen-thousand-dollar mine and brought me back some of the rock which he had hammered off ; it showed gokl in every part. M said he would accompany us to pass judgment on the proposition, so we climbed up the steep hill where we broke off rock which M pronounced of unusual richness, but said that the mine had been so thor- oughly worked that there was little left. On we tramped, stopping at one claim after another, never knowing that the greater number of them belonged to modest M , until some employee of his told us. We stopped at B 's mine, where E was brave enough to go down the verj- steep incline to see the panning and was rewarded by the gift of a couple of nuggets as a souvenir of the occasion. My blistered foot kept me on the top of the hill with no nugget. On the road I stopped to chat with one of my fellows-passengers, who gave me the numbers of three bench claims to locate, and then asked if, on his return the following day, I would introduce him to the great man of the country, M . A little farther on, a miner stopped to chat with me. Not having seen a woman for ages he was anxious to ask me about his sore throat for which I promised him a remedy on my return to the tent. He then told me of his son, who had met his death in one of the mines of S of Colorado, and how the generous owner had educated his remaining son, who was prospecting near by, but had had no luck as yet. Towards eight in the evening we reached M 's mines. There were two brothers in his employ of the same name as our guide and host, but not related to him. In a comfort- able, nicely floored cabin sat pretty, refined Mrs. M at her sewing-machine, with all about her as clean and attract- ive as though she had a dozen shops at hand upon which to call for supplies. There was but one room, according to the custom of the country, with the stove for cooking purposes outside in a .sheltered nook, and a cache like a closet adjoin- ing. Mrs. M welcomed us with her soft, pleasant voice, and cooked some ham, fried some real potatoes (which she told us were described in this part of the world as " human Visiting Mines with a Klondike King 175 potatoes "), gave us some delicious bread — her own make — with equally delicious butter and tea. After we had done full justice to these viands we were treated to something' which made our mouths water — a light, feather}', cream layer-cake. The repast finished, we sat outside in the two home chairs, the men on boxes, and enjoyed the grandeur of the scenerj', with its magnificent mountains opposite, on A SLUICE-BOX IN OPERATION. which bench claims are already staked and giving forth good pay. At our feet was the El Dorado River, filled with sluice-boxes through which the water flowed rapidly, while the piles of rock and stone on either side showed how quickly the ground was being dug out. The men who were intro- duced to us said it was not at all necessary for us to pitch our tent, as there was a vacant one near bj', which they could assure us was thoroughh' clean as the boys who lived in it were most particular, and they were now on the trail. We found a bed inside, raised about one foot from the ground made of evergreen boughs, boxed in by the tent on one side 1/6 Two Women in the Klondike and a board on the other. It was wide enough to bunk four men. Our man Friday- had thrown E 's blankets across the boughs for us to sleep on, and my fur robe to cover us. Fortunately we had brought our down cushions which served as pillows. I was awakened some time during the night by hearing E say, " What is the cause of this intrusion ? " and there at the tent door with his face clearly showing in the moon- light, stood the startling apparition of a man. Had I caught sight of him first, my shrieks would probably have aroused the people on either side of the river, but, hearing E 's low, firm voice, I listened quietly as the stranger replied : " This is my tent ; I have just come in from the trail and was not aware that it was occupied ; but now that I am here should like my blankets, and will leave you undisturbed if you will kindly throw them out." " They were taken to M 's," said E , " where they told me there was a bunk for j'ou should you return." " Which M ? " said the intruder, but we could give him no further information, and left him to discover for himself. Wednesday, August loth. This morning my poor blistered heel was so inflamed and bleeding that I dared not put on a boot, so slipped into a wrapper, made my toilet, and decided, to my intense disap- pointment, that there was nothing for it but to give that foot at least a day's rest. So E went alone to M 's, where we had been asked to breakfast. No sooner had the news of my crippled state reached them than our host and Mr. Jones immediately appeared at the door and agreed that it would be folly for me to move. M had already visited one of his claims and had a bag of gold on his .shoulder almost too heavy for even so large a man as he to stagger under. He was about to go back on business to the Forks when he met his men coming in seach of him. Jones and E went on to see a " clean-up" at No. — , and were then going to No. — , where the gold ran from two to three hundred dollars to the pan. This is so marvellous Visiting Mines with a Klondike King // that they did not wish us to take it on faith, but to see for ourselves. How I groaned as thej- started off without me, and felt indignant that so small a thing as a pebble in the boot could have worked such damage. Isaacs soon made his appearance to get orders for the day, but before they could be given his glib tongue began its usual monologue. " Well, marm, I 'm glad you 've seen ONE PAN IN A RICH MINE. me as I am, and not as a galley-slave. Everyone knows me all along the road, and heven M — — 'as n't got more friends. Did j-ou just see them a-callin' of me on all sides, mum ? One made me take off my old wet shoes and put on this fine pair of rubber boots ; another stopped me to give me a cup o' coffee ; an' right there at that place where you saw the 'oss tied up, you might 'a' wondered whatever 'ad become o' me, but Isaacs 's alwaj-s all right ; a friend 'ad stopped me to give me such a good dinner as I 've not 'ad the likes o' for 178 Two Women in the Klondike many a daj- ! We 'ad fresh meat, manii, that we 'ad, and plenty of it, an' those friends o' mine, marni, why, they 're taking out a milhon dollars, marm, if they 're takin' out a cent, an' pleased they were to see me ; and now p'raps you can hunderstand better as 'ow I was right when I excused myself from 'aving that picture o' mine taken in \o\\x tent in a menial position. Yer see, marm, when a feller 's once been a Bonanza King, it 's against nature that he should want to be taken like that just because he 's down on his luck, but if I strikes one o' these here good claims, why you can take me as what I reallj- mean to be, a Bonanza King. ' ' Glass o' water ? Yes 'm, then I 'm going to borrow some things for these poor feet o' yours, and you '11 soon see what Isaacs' friends can do for you ; " so off the quiet (?) fellow went, and soon returned with lint, liniment, a pair of new muck-a-lucks, scissors, needle, and thread with which to sew the bandages. " How much did I pay? Well, whenever 3-ou 'ears of Isaacs' friends hashing pay for doing a kindness to a sick lady you just let me know, mum, an' it '11 be the last time they '11 'ave the pleasure o' bowiu' to 'im. They says as 'ow you 're to keep hever\'think, marm, until it 's perfectly convenient for you to return them, new muck-a- lucks and all, marm, and they do belong to Mrs. L , and a mighty fine lady she is, — worth a million if she 's worth five cents, and no hairs nor nonsense about it." The muck-a- lucks were put to soak and Isaacs brought a tub of hot water, saying that there was nothing that he could not borrow on the trail. He then tied the tent flaps together and departed. Tied tent flaps are much more respected here than are bolts, bars, and padlocks at home. Shortly after came a visit from Mr. and Mrs. M , who both urged me to move to their house, where it would be more comfortable and cool, but although the heat was almost insufferable as the sun's rays poured down on the canvas roof, yet, as they had but one room in which to sleep, eat, and receive their guests, such a sacrifice was too great to accept. Good, kind-hearted Jones offered to get a harness and strap me on his back, to be carried thus down the Visiting Mines with a Klondike King 179 mountain-side. M said that it could easily be done, as he had often packed more than one liundred and fift}- pounds when on the trail. As E and I both refused to ride the horse we had brought with us, and for which we are paying thirty dollars for the first two days, and ten dollars for each succeeding day, they also ofifered to send him back and them- selves to carry all of the pack which Isaacs might not be able to manage — another offer which we could not allow ourselves to accept, preferring the expense to the imposition. AWAITING THE RESULT OF A CLEAN-UP. Jones explained to us his position with M , saying, " He 's known me since I was a kid and he don't like to go to London without me. You see he knows more about min- ing than me, but he thinks I can help him some in society. You see I spent seven thousand dollars in getting into society in New York and Boston, an' I got into some pretty good clubs, although I ain't had much schoolin' coz I was kid- i8o Two Women in the Klondike napped from school as a child ; still that don't make no difference, coz them that 'as met Jones once at anj^ o' the clubs alius asks him to come again, an' that 's a pretty good sign, ain't it ? an' I can help M a good deal, coz he 's got a heart o' gold ; the only trouble is that there 's so many a-tryin' to oust me out o' my place with him just to get in themselves ; here he 's a big man, an' wherever he goes everybody knows him an' tries to buttonhole him." At lunch-time Mrs. M sent me b}' Isaacs some delicious beef, new (human) potatoes, bread, butter, and two slices of raw onion, which those who live here the j-ear round say is quite necessary for health. Isaacs ate the onion with avidity upon hearing that I did not care for it, and I re- luctantly left him half of the luncheon, as he led me to be- lieve that he had had no breakfast. A visit from Mr. D M — — , who sat at the tent door for half an hour whittling and entertaining me. He has been " in " for four years ; expects to " go out " next year, never to return, having made his pile. He also invited me up to the house, where they could make me more comfort- able, and said there was no one there but his sister-in-law, who would be very glad to see me. He heartily agreed with me that she was not only very pretty but an excellent house- keeper. He told me that those who froze here did not know how to dress properly ; that it was as bad to put on too much as too little clothing ; that he had worked with the mercury at eighty degrees below zero. There is great rejoicing among all claim-owners over the rumour that the royalty has been reduced from ten per cent, to two, " and we can afford to pay that," said he, " as we sometimes get pans that run all the wa}' from three hundred to twelve hundred dollars, whereas, on the American side, you make much less than you do here, even after paying the ten per cent, royalty." Just then E returned enthusiastic over her day's trip, though with lame and aching feet. " We went first to No. — , El Dorado," said she ; " Mr. M met us there and we watched the end of the clean-up of half a day's work, Visiting Mines with a Klondike King i8i two men, and out came five thousand dollars, all washed through sluice-boxes, then raked and spaded. From there to No. — and thirty feet down a perpendicular ladder ; another clean-up, twelve thousand dollars in two days, seven men at work. Gold fell out wherever I poked my umbrella, and, at the last moment, Jones knocked out a stone and right behind it shone a nugget weighing between seven and eight THE RESULT OF A CLEAN-UP. ounces. In the cabins were great pans of gold which I tried to photograph, one pan with six hundred and seventy-eight dollars. Next we went to M — — 's pet, No. — , but I did not care so much for that, as the gold was finer and not so easily seen. Then back to No. — , to see them sifting and drying gold, taking the black sand out with a common magnet such as children use." After dinner E and Jones sat in the door of the i82 Two Women in the Klondike tent entertaining me, while Isaacs sat outside smoking his pipe and waiting orders from us. " Well, Isaacs, did you go up the hill and write our names on the stakes?" said E . " I went up to top o' the hill and down to the Gulch, and there were only eighteen claims and they were all staked out to the very end ; cabins there and people prospecting, and they said as how they had n't found nothink. Went down one fellow's hole and he 'd put a fire in it. No, an' I did n't stake in the other stream neither. You just bet yer life, Jones, if there 'd been anythink in it I 'd 'a' been in it myself, cause that 's what I come up 'ere for." "Just think of No. — ," said E, turning to me ; " every time I put my umbrella in, the great pieces of gold fell out ; I could have sat there for ever." At eleven, as M did not materialise we said good-night and dropped the tent flap. Thursday, August nth. We awakened at eight ; all was quiet ; no one moving out- side, not even the dogs. My lame foot still prevented me from going to the M s' cabin for breakfast, which E pro- mised to send me by Isaacs. She soon returned, saj'ing, " It is nine o'clock, but no one is up j-et." Shortly after, Jones and Isaacs appeared to dress and bandage ray wounds. Then came Mrs. M , with such a nice breakfast. Finally, our guide, Mr. M ■, appeared, to know if I should be able to go on, and said, " As Miss V panned out some nuggets yesterday, I thought it would be onlj' fair to fetch a few for you," and he handed me four beauties. Isaacs admired them so loudly that he was handed a small one by M for a scarf-pin. " Now," said the latter, " if yon feel equal to the walk, we '11 go down to Skookum Gulch and you shall have your turn at panning out." " That is a great inducement," said I, " and rather than keep the party back I '11 go if the foot has to be amputated after." " By Josh ! you 're plucky," said M ; " but we '11 take it slowly and you can stop whenever you feel like it." Isaacs rolled up our tent, fur robes, etc., and said, " You see, marm, I 've never boasted much as to what I could do, l)ut when j-ou take a CLEAN-UP ON THE B MINE. 1 84 Two Women in the Klondike trip like this you 're not long in finding out what an 'andj^ fellow I ham. I never believe in boasting ; just let people find out for themselves an' they '11 soon know what you are. An' now I '11 return your breakfast dishes. Great Julius Caesar ! ain't you goin' to eat that fine cake ? Goin' to give it to me ! Well, by golly, I 'm thankful for it ; your kind- ness and generosity shall never be forgotten by yours truly, who 's only 'ad a flapjack for 'is breakfast. You see yester- day I lent a 'elpin' 'and so often to the missus that she could n't 'elp haskin me to dinner ; carried water for her, chopped wood, and made myself as useful as a man can to a woman, an' that beef she gave me — well, I ain't sayin' any- think, but that 's the finest I 've tasted for a long time, an' I 'm goin to fix some just like it for you two ladies as soon as we get back." Our first stopping-place, after bidding farewell to the hospitable M s and inviting them to visit us in West Dawson, was at the B s' comfortable cabin with its car- pet, rocking-chairs and homelike appearance. We were welcomed by Mr. and Mrs. B and Mrs. B 's sister. Mrs. B showed us a tin box filled with hundreds of nuggets from their mine. She was able to tell them all apart, their weight, and when and where found. Her sister also had a fine collection, but said that pamiing was such hard work that she did not do it very often, even though it meant extra nuggets. We next went on to Bonanza No. — , where Mr. M told us we might have all the gold we could pan out ; but as they had just had a clean-up and my first efforts were not successful, M finished his business with the overseer and said, "Let us go over to Skookum Gulch and there we '11 find some nuggets." So, leaving E and Jones dig- ging, surrounded by the honest miners who were helping them in their search, we went over sluice-boxes and crossed narrow ledges down into Skookum Gulch, No. — , where F welcomed us and said, " Had you only come yesterday I could have helped you to find some beauties." However, we crawled under the sluice-boxes, and on hands and knees Visiting Mines with a Klondike King 185 we chipped away until two big nuggets fell into ni3- hands ; then we filled a pan, took it over to the water-box, and the excitement began as the stones and gravel washed out and the colours began to show. More shaking of the pan, and the colours became clearer, until at length the small stones fell out and only nuggets remained. These were dropped into my handkerchief in accordance with the custom here, that the best the mine affords is scarcely sufficient to do honour to woman, so highly is she appreciated where she so rarel_v appears. E and Jones soon joined us and E • washed out a pan, after which, as M was obliged to re- turn to the Forks and visit the clean-ups from his other mines, we parted companj-, thanking him again and again for his kindness and for the wonderful experiences he had given us. He recommended us to the care of honest John Jones, and well did he fulfil the charge. We had sent Isaacs ahead with the horse and pack, telling him to meet us at the Half-way House, but, as that was eight miles distant and E had not much confidence in her ability to walk it, Isaacs was told to listen for our yodel and not to keep too far ahead of us, on the horse trail opposite. How the trail changed ! Sometimes the ground was hard and dry, then suddenly v^'ould appear a marsh in which our feet would sink beyond the ankle, and so extensive that, peer as we would, not a sign could be seen of the trail be- yond ; we would wade through the marsh, carefully picking our steps for fear of disappearing entirely from view ; then we would suddenly come upon one of those beautiful mossy, spongy carpets of such glorious colours of pale grey, green, and red that it looked as though prepared for a dance of the fairies. How we longed to get an adequate photograph of such exquisite beaut}' that no pen can picture ! On we tramped over this most delicate of carpets, on which the foot rests but leaves no impress, and, just as we were in despair at the thought of having lost the trail, it would loom plainly and clearly before us again, well trodden and unmistakable. About 8 P.M. we reached the junction of the two roads and gladly seated ourselves on the bench under the tent 1 86 Two Women in the Klondike for supper. Two men stopped to have lemonade, and were charged fift}^ cents a glass. Before starting again Isaacs took off E 's muck-a-lucks and filled them once more with fresh straw to protect the soles of her feet from being cut by the sharp stones which we sometimes encoun- tered. E was still doubtful as to whether she could make the Half-way House, so Isaacs went on with the same instructions to listen for the yodel, which would mean that he must pitch the tent for the night. We were both anxious not to give up, as it would have meant that the men must spend the night in the open air without blankets, although men in this part of the world are not unaccustomed to that hardship, as evidenced by the many sound sleepers over whom we almost stumbled, so near to the trail were they lying. Finally, it became almost too dark to see the waj^, as, at this time of year, one has really a few hours without sun or moon. Now came the bridges ; not wide ones with a railing, but a log of wood, which sometimes rolled over as we stepped upon it, laid across a dashing torrent without any support. Poor John Jones was obliged to cross it first with E , then return for me, and how we did cling to his hand! At last we were really off the trail, and, search as we would, no trace of it could be discovered. We were almost ready to weep with fatigue, but knew that we must keep up our spirits and not depress or discourage the man who, although so ill and faint him.self that he could scarcely walk, still bravely led on. Finally we sat down to rest while honest John went on a voyage of discovery, but when he returned he had found no sign of a trail. Suddenly we heard a sound in the dis- tance and walked towards it until we reached a mine where men were still working. The}' told us that we must either retrace our steps for a mile, or try the perilous task of climb- ing the rocks and stones that had been thrown up from the mine, leaving the deep cavern beneath. We decided upon the latter cour.se, rather than go back. In fear and trembling we began to crawl over the pointed mass of rolling stone.s, carefully testing each step before daring to trust to it. Slip- Visiting Mines with a Klondike King 187 ping, sliding, clutchingfor Jones'sever-readj- hand, itseemed hours before we reached the bridge and tried the dashing water with our sticks to probe the depth before we dared put foot upon the log. During the entire trip we had said to each obstacle, " So long as we do not sink above the knee it does n't matter," but here, although Jones did all in his power to steadj' us, the log rolled and the water rushed into our boots as we went up to our hips and were pulled out on shore. Poor John was in great distress at the accident, but we assured him that it had cooled our burning feet deliciousl y, and that, as uo one ever takes cold in this countrj', theie was no harm done. But still he worried, feeling himself to blame, and all we could saj- did not restore his spirits. Then came a long stretch of woods and bog, and as there was nothing to light us on our wa\-, I began to sing. Lead Kindly Light, lead Thou me on. Just then we stumbled over a sleeping man. As he sat up I began to apologise, whereupon he said, " Don't make no excuses, lady ; I 'd be willing to be woke up every night to hear Lead Kindly Light sung by a lady." We next passed a cabin, and a voice called out, "What time is it? How good it is to hear a ladj- sing " ; but E said she was so weary that song made her nervous, and so we continued our tramp in silence. Soon we saw bright lights ahead and rejoiced that the hotel was so near. With quickened step we approached, only to find an enormous bonfire around which were seated about twenty men. At home we should have thought of tramps, and have made an enormous detour, at sight of the big slouch hats and unknown faces at so late an hour; but, being in Alaska among men whose hearts seem to rejoice at sight of a woman, we merely passed the time of night and inquired " How far to the Half-way House ? " " Only a mile," they replied, and E groaned, saying that her feet felt as though they had been bastinadoed, and that each step was agony. Another mile of marsh brought us, thoroughly exhausted, to the small hotel. All were sleeping, but "mine host" was soon aroused. There was accommodation for Jones in an eight- bunk hall. The proprietor placed his room at our disposal, 1 88 Two Women in the Klondike while Isaacs bad to put up the tent and sleep outside. We quickly turned in to beds almost as narrow as coffins, but we were thankful enough even for such accommodations. Friday, August I2th. In the morning Isaacs brought us big tubs of hot water and with it towels which we did not care to use. This re- minds me to add the caution, that one should always travel with one's own linen, no matter what else has to be left behind. He also brought us the news that the horse for which we are paying from ten to fifteen dollars a day had strayed away during the night and wandered several miles on the homeward trail. He was told to go at once in search of it, but said he could not do so without his breakfast. Several hours later he tried to overtake the beast, but re- turned saying that it was not to be found. So Isaacs had to pack on his back the sixty or seventy pounds, and was told to start on the horse trail, tran.sfer the pack to the horse's back and lead him into town, meeting us at the stores of the Alaska Commercial Company. We took a few pictures and then started off, E having changed muck-a-lucks with the cook, and I wearing one India-rubber boot and one muck-a-luck. We started on the last stage of our journey at three sharp, and having been told that by climbing the mountain we could cut off two miles, we took that route, intending to do the eight miles leisurely — eight miles, possibly, as the crow flies, but, with all the circuitous windings of the trail, how many could it have been ? The climb was one steady pull up — up — the mountain growing steeper and steeper. We rested many times, as E 's feet were almost too sore to touch the ground, while mine felt as though there were mustard plasters on each sole. Up— up — and steeper and more steep became the mountain, until it was almost perpen- dicular. Had we seen a map or picture of it before starting, never should we have attempted the climb, but with patient Jones ready to tender assi.stance at any moment in spite of being still pale, ill, and faint, we were shamed into a courage Visiting Mines with a Klondike King 189 we were far from feeling. Many men passed us on the trail ; nianj- we passed as they rested by the wayside, and from each one came pleasant greetings and compliments at our pluck and courage, praise which I little deserved, being such a coward at heart. At last we reached the summit, and the magnificent view was well worthy of the exertion. There was our tent in the distance ; before us the Klondike River ; RETURNING FROM A CLEAN-UP. on the right a beautiful island, and, just beyond, Dawson. We seated ourselves on the moss}^ carpet, and feasted our eyes while resting our weary limbs. Then came four miles down hill, through woods, then a marsh where the trail was lost again and again, but as there were so many passing in each direction, it was easily refound. Our way next led us through a town whose name I do not like to mention — " Louse-town." When Jones said we must pass through it, I strongly objected, but he replied, " Why, there ain't none iQO Two Women in the Klondike of 'em there ; that 's only the name they give it, 'cause it was bought from the Indians, an' they 're always lousy." We hastened through, nevertheless, and then found ourselves at the head of a perpendicular descent; after walking, sliding, and rolling down a long hill, which seemed so dangerous that we should have taken a picture of it had there been light enough, to enable us afterwards to realise our own bravery. Never should I have dared it had there been any other waj- of reaching home. Although the bank of the river was lined with boats and the place filled with men, it took nearly an hour to find one to row us, or rather to float with the strong current to West Dawson, not a mile distant. The first man wanted ten dollars, the second three, which we willingl}' gave, as, had we walked across the bridge, it would have cost one dollar each, and then we should have had the Main Street of Dawson to traverse before reaching the Alaska Commercial Company to take a boat. As we drifted down stream, we 3-odelled to Isaacs, and shortlj- after he appeared with his pack. Bad news greeted us on our arrival. The neighbours' dogs had come into the tent during our absence and killed quite a number of the pigeons. It was eight o'clock and Isaacs, though exhausted, managed to prepare us a nice little supper. Dr. H came to see if we required his services, and then such a night's rest as we should have enjoyed had it not been for the incessant barking of the dogs just outside the tent ; a noise which their owners do not seem at all to mind, but which awakened us again and again. Saturday, August I3tb. We must get rid of the pigeons! They have become so tame that they not only fly all about the tent, but even light upon the bed ; at half-after five this morning I was up de- coying them out by offering them food and drink outside the tent door, and then Poll had to be fed in order to quiet her scolding. The silence then was such an inducement that I began to write, and have been at it ever since. The pigeons, however, have come back through the air-holes in the top Visiting Mines with a Klondike King 191 of the tent, and are so saucy that they are sitting on the bench at my side, on the table at which I am writing, perch- ing on cups and making them fall with a crash, dipping into our drinking-water bucket, which our man-of-all-work was too weary to cover before going home last night, and even going into the barrel, which makes me feel like covering it up so that thej' ma)' never come out. Moral — never open a pigeon-box, after a voyage, in a place where you do not wish them to remain, for, fight them as you will, it is impossible to drive them out afterwards. Our first visitor was Mrs. T , to ask how we had en- joyed our trip, to inquire if she might be of service, and to insist upon making us coffee, as it was after ten, Isaacs had not yet appeared, and our feet were too swollen to permit of our taking the least liberty in using them. E , however, made some of her delicious bi.scuit, which the cook, saunter- ing in before eleven, enjoyed with great gusto. Then E , who now takes charge, kindly relieving me from all care, had her first unpleasant experience with Klondike house- keeping. The storm had been brewing for some time, and she felt it necessary to " have it out." M had arranged with his unfortunate friend to come to us as cook, carpenter, boatman, etc., for one hundred and fifty dollars a month and his "grub." He had worked well, cooked well, made us tables, shelves, and stools from boxes, etc., was willing and obliging, and at first we were well pleased. Then he found our " grub " too dainty for a strong man, so we got M to order just what miners used, and advanced him money to purchase a tent, blankets, and other necessary articles. His tent was pitched very near ours, and he was allowed the time to go back and forth for his meals. But this took so long that when we were in a hurry he remained, par- taking of our food. Next came a demand for fresh meat, and, as the regular price is one dollar a pound, and we found on inquiry that very few men got it, we refused this modest request. We also objected to his coming in and out of the front door be- fore our guests with pipe in mouth, or to carrying in big 192 Two Women in the Klondike boxes when the back door was quite as convenient. We had requested him to take his " grub " with him on the trail, but after the second day he informed us that he had lost it, and when his friends no longer lined the route, two dollars and fifty cents a meal was the price paid. We then asked him to bring his " grub " over to our tent, and use our stove, rather than spend so much time in making extra fires. There were also man}' other small causes of complaint, of which he could not be made to see the impropriety, but when E said, " I am not in the habit of having my servants " — she got no further. " Servant, madam ! " shouted Isaacs, snatch- ing up his hat. " How (/ard' you call me a servant! Do you know who I am ? " From his tone it seemed as though E 's end might be very near, and I prepared to go to her assistance, when suddenly his voice changed and he said, " 'Ave a glass of water, madam, a glass of cold .spring water? I begs your pardon, marm, for anything I 've said or done that 's not right, but it 's hard for me to be menial, an' I 'm always 'ot about it when anyone calls me so." Such a scene can only be done justice to on the stage. Mr. Jones and Mr. O soon came to inquire if they could do anything in town for us, and next Mrs. B , to tell us of a miners' meeting, at which everyone expressed resentment at the conduct of the Canadian officials, and con- cluded to protest and to bring pressure to bear for a change. " May I come in ? " said a new voice. " I 'm the only man in town who has n't called on you two ladies. My name is Q , and I 've heard so much that 's nice about you, that, although I never pay visits, I could n't stay away any longer." He was shortlj' joined by J and Jones, who brought us the latest news from town, and entertained us until the arrival of Mr. and Mrs. U , who said they had called the night of our departure and spent an liour and a half in the tent waiting for the return of their boatman. Mrs. U declared that she is charmed with life here, in spite of having given up a fine residence at home with plent)' of servants, and now living in a one-roomed cabin, doing her own housework, cooking, etc. ^-':f^#^