H».'«TTlfftrffM' 
 
 [IKUfU 
 
 il'ilST'iL'ilMM I' i',i . 
 
 
 "i,Trri.|i:iM',ii ivi',1 
 
 
 ■ 1 
 
 
 ^i. 
 
 
 
 i i' 
 
 i i 
 ) t 
 
 \ V 
 
 A r 
 
 '".."i^ k 
 
 t I' 
 
 I, 
 v 
 
 
 
 I 
 

 »f.- 
 
 v^ ^ 
 
 Cr4- 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 
lOuix^^^ 's^ p^HU'C^i-*v>-L a>>^ 
 
C^'<^.^''^JL.^ ■' ' 
 
 /^ / . 
 
 \^ ^ 
 
 4 
 
> f \ 
 
 \ • 
 
 --; s 
 
 »*.'\ 
 
 •> 
 
 t > 
 • t 
 
Seepage 12 _ 
 
 The Aulhor in U.e Arab dress worn Ljy him when visiting Palmyra. 
 
FROM 
 
 T O 
 
 ^" '-*'429 PARKR3V/, NEV/-YOPavi;'.'-c-' 
 
 ROLLO, 
 
 1859 
 
WALL-STKEET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 A JOURNAL OF FIVE YEAllS 
 
 IN 
 
 ASIA, AFBICA, AND EUROPE; 
 
 COJIPRISIXG 
 
 VISITS, DUEING 1851, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 
 
 TO THE 
 
 DxlNEMORA IR0:N" MINES, THE " SEVEX CHURCHES," 
 
 PLAIN'S OF TROY, PALMYRA, JERUSALEM, 
 
 PETRA, SERIXGAPATAM, SURAT; 
 
 •WITH 
 
 THE SCENES OF THE RECENT MUTINIES (BENARES, AGRA, CAWNPORE, 
 LDCKNOW, DELHI, ETC., ETC.), 
 
 Casljiucre, 
 
 PESHAWUR, THE KIIYBER PASS TO AFGHANISTAN, JAVA, 
 CHINA, AND MAURITIUS. 
 
 BY 
 
 JOHN B. IRELAND. 
 
 WITH KEAELT ONE HUNDEED ILLUSTEATIOXS, FROM SKETCHES MADE OX 
 
 THE SPOT BY THE AUTHOR. 
 
 NEW YORK: 
 PUBLISHED BY S. A. ROLLO & CO., 29 PARK ROW 
 
 LONDON ;— SAMPSON LOW, SOX & CO. 
 1850. 
 
Entered, nceording to Act of Congress, in tlic j-ear 1859, by 
 
 JOHN B. IRELAND, 
 
 in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of tlie United States for the Southern 
 
 District of New York. 
 
 JoiiM K. Tkow, Printer. 
 
Mr Dear Mother: 
 
 In dedicating this worh to you^ I feel I am only performing 
 a duty, and rendering iut a small return for the affectionate anxiety 
 and tenderness with which you traced my journeyings during the long 
 years of my ahsence. 
 
 Thinlcing at this time, tchen India has been brought so near to us hy 
 the melancholy events of the last two years, that even the hasty notes of 
 a traveller made on the spot, and entirely from personal observation, 
 about a country hitherto so little hioioi, would interest th-e public, and 
 perhaps please the reader, I have talcen the liberty of publishing that 
 portion of my letters to you which related to India, with the briefest 
 abstract of my tour preceding my arrival there, except as to a few places 
 which, being rarely visited or icritten about. I thought might interest. 
 The India 2'>ortion is a literal transcript of my letters, as you will see, 
 except an occasional relief from a few brief dottings; for, as you kriow, 
 most of the letters were written in the hurry of the moment, when and 
 where the opportunity offered — in the palanquin, on my lap, bed, or 
 floor, and often when oppressed by heat, cold, or travel. 
 
 Yours affectionately, 
 
 John B. Ireland. 
 
A WORD TO THE READER. 
 
 In this volume which I present to the public, I have given a very 
 brief abstract (except as to those places seldom visited or written 
 about) of wanderings in Europe, Asia Minor, and Africa, Avith a 
 literal transcript of tliat during my travels in India, China, and 
 Java, taken from a continuous journal in letters to my mother, 
 during a period of five or six years in Europe, Asia, and Africa, and 
 of course reliable from the very nature of the journal. 
 
 As my letters were not even remotely intended for publication, 
 but strictly fur my fomily, it will account for their every-day 
 familiarity of style. Although repeatedly solicited by civilian 
 friends i:i India, to publish a book, as they xclshed to see an American 
 view of their country and government, I constantly refused, as I 
 have done to niy friends here who wished to know what I saw ; and 
 as I only decided to publish the book .about the first of last January, 
 my prol'essional engagements Avould not have allowed me to spend 
 any time (even if so disposed) in belles lettres embellishments, or 
 research, to mvke up a book; for the .actual labor of revising, 
 abstracting, and carefully comparing the journal, much of which 
 had never before ben read by me, together with the various cares 
 of prep nation f tr the press, and ex.amniing the drawings irom ray 
 sketches to asrertnin if strictly accurate — have alone crowded an 
 immens'ty of labor in these two months, as any person familiar 
 with book-writai:^ wi'l re.adily see. And it is only now, Avhen 
 India and its ad'a'rs have assumed such a vast importance before 
 
Vm A WORD TO THE READER. 
 
 the world, that I have been induced to yield to the repeated 
 solicitations of friends, to give the public my mite of experience 
 and knowledge of the country, its people, customs, government, 
 army, etc., derived during eighteen months of pleasure travel in 
 which I visited every part of India. 
 
 All the views of places and edifices in this book, were taken by 
 me on the spots they represent, and therefore may be relied upon 
 as strictly correct. The reader will doubtless be well satisfied that 
 Mr. J. W. Orr, who engraved the sketches, has added to his well- 
 merited reputation in that department of art. 
 
 With these few words to the reader, I dismiss the work, — of 
 course wishing it success, — but feelmg very sure, that whatever 
 may be its fate, no person who may hereafter follow my track, will 
 find anything different from what is represented as having been 
 seen by me ; and if the book should not prove to be interesting, 
 it will at least be found correct. 
 
 J. B. I. 
 
to 
 
 Odeyp 
 '^ ^- ' - CtMim.e3.(ibaa. 
 
 0? 
 
 ird-t- 
 
 III iJ^' 
 
 (Jinorcif'.-?:^- 
 
 
 ^'ffiji 
 
 ''J Ji. 
 
 ,' BOMBAY it -^>OX«A'fl 
 
 ^ u'tiurihiy^t'f . i ^^ 
 
 yagjioor) 
 
 :aJhTu 
 
 or 
 
 <"!>■ 
 
 pSccui 
 
 AO 
 
 DJit 
 
 lufTJee 
 
 miore^ 
 
 C"n«T«. 
 
 ^U(/.vr/V- 
 
 varX^ 0:K2i tiiu u t 
 
 Imccai 
 
 -••^ ■. -vxX -Vahga 
 
 Z/&yv 
 
 V 
 
 / vim) fitof 
 
 ^ w 
 
 /(ijii/uehar 
 lire 
 
 7 
 
 i^ys' 
 
 TIIK HclTl 
 
H .\i;-niiiu 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 EUROPE. 
 
 DENMARK — NORWAY — SWEDEN. 
 
 Copenhagen. — Thorwaldsen. — Colored "Gent.'" — " A breeze." — Christiania. — Early 
 Sunrise. — Minde. — Gilley tlie Courier. — Gottenburg. — Falls of Trall-liattan — Gotha 
 Canal — Yankee Doodle with Variations. — Motala Iron "Works. — Approach to 
 Stockholm. — Sympathetic Commissionnaire. — Affecting Sermon. — Stockholm Pa- 
 laces. — Dalecarlians. — New Upsala. — Dannemora Iron Mines. — Old Upsala Uni- 
 versity. — Odin's Horn. — Chamber of Deputies 13-29 
 
 RUSSIA. 
 
 Abo. — Revel. — Sweaborg. — Cronstadt. — St. Petersburg. — Our Creditable Diplomats. 
 — Peterhofl', Imperial Family. — Cadet Review. — Isaac Church. — Citadel. — Hermi- 
 tage Palace. — Fete in Burial Ground. — Foundling Hospital, Palace. — Tzarsko-Celo 
 Festival Days. — Expectant Review. — Greek Service. — Road to Moscow. — Krem- 
 lin and Old Church. — Manoeuvres. — Flatboats. — Bazaars. — Seminoff Monastery. 
 — Siberian Exiles. — Porta Triumphahs of Moscow. — Yellow Tea. — New Palace. 
 — Grand Review. — Opening Letters. — Sterlet 29-51 
 
 The Solitary Horseman. — Tula. — Prompt Russian Justice. — Musket Manufactory. — 
 Pultowa. — Elizavgrad. — Cavalry Review. — Odessa. — Grain. — Passport Vise. — 
 Waggon Trains 51-55 
 
 TURKEY. 
 
 Constantinople. — Golden Horn. — Kossuth. — Sultan's Harem. — Bulgurlu. — " Seven 
 Towers." — Confusion. — Sultan's Palaces. — Dancing and Howling Dervishes. — 
 Arbutus. — Modest Minister. — Sail to the Dardanelles. — Plains of Troy. — Priam's 
 Palace. — Democratic Ablutions. — Xerxes' Throne. — Ramazan. — Smyrna. — Sport- 
 ing Steamer Captain 55-63 
 
 GREECE. 
 
 Puraeus. — Quarantine. — Athens. — Jnpiter Olympus. — Old Ruins. — Mr. Hill's, Greek 
 Court.— Marathon by Moonlight.— Mars Hill. — Tlirough Greece. — Daphne.— 
 
: CONTENTS. 
 
 Thebes. — Clicronea.— Delphi— Parnassus— Corj'cian Cave.— Galaxede.— (Edipufl.-— 
 Novel mode of Shipping and Unshipping Horses. — Megaspelion, Mammotli Tree. — 
 Jolly Priest. — Corinth — Nemeaii Cave. — Mj-cenae. — Nauplia. — Temple of Escula- 
 pius. — jEgina. — Maid of Athens. — Acropolis. — Greek Marriages.. ..,..'.. .63-72 
 
 ASIA. 
 
 ASIA IIIXOR AND PALESTINE. 
 
 Smyrna. — Rhodes. — Cyprus — BeirCit. — Distinguished Party. — Dr. Smith Translat- 
 ing the Bible. — Camel Loads. — Porter Loads. — Unwilling Purchase. — Roofing a 
 House. — Sidon. — Albany General — Jonah's Tomb. — Tyre. — Solomon's Fountain. 
 — Invitation to Breakfast. — Scientific Cooks. — Acre. — Mount Carmel. — Iliram'g 
 Tombs. — Jaffa. — Ascalon. — Fancy Pocket. — Philistine Cities. — " Gaza the Strong." 
 — Vigilant Guard. — Dutch Concert 73-18 
 
 AFRICA. 
 
 EGYPT. 
 
 First Essay on Camels. — Elarish. — Quarantine. — Sheik's temporary Tribute. — Inter- 
 esting Inquiry after our Fathers. — Hurling the Jereed. — Nubian's Devotion. — 
 Bill of Health 78-79 
 
 Heliopolis. — Cairo. — Mahommed Ali's Mosque. — Asparagus Bed. — Circumcision. — 
 Nile. — Christmas Dinner. — Thebes. — Esne. — Virtuous Government. — Battle of 
 New Orleans — River Salutes. — First Cataract. — New Use of Trowsers. — Second 
 Cataract. — "Water Wheels. — Sketching under Difficulties. — Peanut Merchant. — 
 Honors of the Tombs. — Dyspeptic Countrj'man. — Bastinadoing. — Heads Shaved. — 
 Cairo Lawyers. — Industrious Soldiers. — Delectable Countryman 79-8-4 
 
 ASIA. 
 
 ARABIA. 
 
 Israelites Crossing the Red Sea. — "Waters of Marah. — Blount Sinai. — Plain of tho 
 Lawgiving.— Burning Bush. — Coral. — Akabali — "Olive Sprig." — Cabinet Coun- 
 cil. — Pctra. — Night Alarm. — Fine Facades. — Serious Accident. — Arab Alarm. — 
 Ploughs. — Quarantine Amusements 84-94 
 
 PALESTIXE. 
 
 Abraham's Tomb. — Abel. — Cain. — Terebinth Tree. — Pools of Solomon. — Jews' 
 Place of "U'ailing. — Dr. Barclay. — Church of the Holy Sepulchre. — Jordan and the 
 Pilgrims. — Tomb of Moses. — Swim in the Dead Sea. — Mar-Saba. — Miserere Ser- 
 vice. — Amiability' of the Greeks. — Latins and Armenians. — Crucifixion Service. — 
 Greek Fire. — Aclunet's Devotion. — Nabalus. — Gibeon — Nazareth. — Tiberias. — 
 
CONTENTS. Xi 
 
 "Cana of Galilee." — Jacob's Bridge. — Damascus. — "Street called Straight." — 
 Early Christian Church.— Baalbec.—BeirCit 94-100 
 
 i EUROPE. 
 
 FRANCE— SPAIN. 
 
 Rocliefaveur. — Perpignan. — Barcelona. — Valencia. — Malaga. — Granada — Gibraltar. 
 — Cadiz. — Seville. — Cordova — Madrid. — Murillo. — Toledo. — Escurial. — Burgos. 
 — Cathedral — Beautiful Ornament. — Basque Provinces. — Pau. — Bordeaux. — Nan- 
 tes.— Kochelle.—Saumur.—Orieans.—Cliartres 100-103 
 
 SWITZERLAND — GERMANY. 
 
 Paris. — Prince President. — Geneva. — Odd Reunion of Travellers. — Lucerne. — Con- 
 stance. — Execution of IIuss. — Munich. — Nuremberg. — Leipsic. — Dresden Gal- 
 leries. — Prague. — Berlin. — Pumpkin Vino Borders. — Vienna. — Lintz. — Lobau. — 
 Pesth Reviews. — Danube. — Lovely Countess. — Accident. — Ismail. — Gj'psies. — 
 Shooting Excursion. — Jolly Guardiano. — Constantinople Dogs 103-112 
 
 ASIA. 
 
 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 Supper with a Bey. — Zebeque's Frugal Supper. — Pergamus. — Charming Greek 
 Hostess. — Thyatira. — Chaining Prisoners. — Aga Justice. — Sardis. — Tumuli of Ly- 
 dian Kings. — Breakfast with Sporting Bey. — Tablet of Sesostris. — Ephesus. — 
 Robber Visit. — Robber Alarm. — Robber Ransoms. — Smyrna — Beirut Theatre — 
 Tenting Solitaire. — Cedars of Lebanon. — Bedouin Alarm. — Missionaries — Pistol 
 Robbery. — Hadj from Mecca. — Journey to Palmyra. — Tasting of Wine. — Palmyra 
 Statuary. — Return from Palmyra — Downy Couch. — Roadside Accommodations. 
 — Custom House Official — Fanciful Cawass. — Sicilian Prince 112-131 
 
 INDIA — BOilBAY PRESIDENCY. 
 
 Van-Travel. — ^Voyage to Bombay. — Aden. — Bombay Harbor. — Miniature Hyde 
 Park — Kind "Welcome to Bombay. — Native Winter Costume. — Dr. Bruist's. — Arab 
 Stables. — Towers of Silence. — Railway. — Punkahs. — Caves of Elepiianta. — Lord 
 Falkland's Reception — Colonel Havelock. — Unceremoniously visiting. — Old Tombs 
 at Surat. — Former importance. — Voyage to Gogo. — Convalescent Sick Officers — 
 Jain. — Temples at Polytanna — Boston Lobsters — Meeting at Cairo to be Married. 
 — Arab Horse Purchase. — Servants in India. — Borah's Consideration — Police 
 Sepoys. — American Press. — Ice Ships and Yankee Clocks 131-145 
 
 Bassein-Bhang. — Government Revenue — Sugar Cane. — Government Bungalows — 
 Snakes.— Salsetto. — Rock Temples — Terrestrial Neptune. — Willing Servant. — 
 Robber.?.— Hot Wind.— " Agra Mail." — Luxury of Baths. — BuUock Convoy with 
 Grain. — Native Trickery in Cotton. — Horse Shampooing. — Trimbuc Sanctity. — 
 
XU CONTENTS. 
 
 Patnarclml Embrace. — " A Spill." — Nassack — Action of I^jectment. — Cheek by 
 Jowl Avitli Bralima. — Mailing a Letter. — Devotion versus Curiosity. — Antelope. — 
 Squatting at Ellora. — Hindoo " Wake." — Kylas Rock Temple. — Indian Hospita- 
 lity. — Aurung/.cbe's Tomb 145-159 
 
 Dowlatabad Fortress. — Dinner Party. — Afl'ectionate Son. — Guns and Pistols.— A 
 Palanquin Journey. — Visit at Ajunta. — Cave Temples. — Tiger Shooting. — Fa- 
 tiguing Da}-. — Missionaries at Ahniednuggur. — Dosing a Hindoo Servant. — 
 Yoking Bullocks. — Hindoo Meals. — Highlander Sentinel. — Karlee Caves. — Specu- 
 lative Yankee. — Peishwar of Mahrattas. — Segur. — Lesson in Obedience. — Native 
 "Watchman. — Mahabk-shwar. — Holy Water Drink. — Elphinstone Point. — Pro- 
 digious Fall of Rain. — Journey to Satara. — Subsoil Ploughing. — State Carriage. — 
 Siwargee. — Wag-Nac. — Reversion of Satara. — Sutteeism. — Irregular Cavalry. — 
 American Missionaries. — Expensive Servant 159-174 
 
 Tiger Alarm. — Useful Siwars. — A Brot'her Professional. — Midnight Dinner. — Beeja- 
 pore and its Ruins. — Midnight Alarm. — Immense Cannon. — Mahommed Shah's 
 Tomb. — A Wedding Party. — Quieting a Village Bully. — Fording the Chrishna. — 
 Game at Midnight. — Madame Sahib's Salaam. — A Narrow Escape. — Belgaum. — 
 A Fog. — A New Horse. — Bombay Mangoes. — Butler's difficulty about Gora- 
 wallas. — Flower Collection. — Misfortunes in Moving. — Gentle Hint. — Portuguese 
 Custom House. — Intelligible Report. — Portuguese View of America. — Service in 
 Goa. — Monastic Establishments. — Inquisition. — Luxurious Desert. — Bookkeeping. 
 — Crow Quill. — Intelligible Report. — Women Coolies. — Compulsive Walk. — A 
 Big Snake. — Midnight Fandango. — Guide Book to Gussuppa Falls. — Dialects of 
 Southern India. — Avalanche of Good Luck — Snake tliat was no Serpent. — Gus- 
 suppa Falls. — Devotion to Flora. — Honahwar. — Voyage to Calicut. — More Mag- 
 nificent than Comfortable. — Devout Servant. — Life Preserver Boat 174-203 
 
 MADRAS PRESIDENCY. 
 
 Calicut and People. — Former Importance. — Native Want of Decency. — Servant 
 always accompanying to Dinner. — Droll. Native Hat. — Gorgeous Dress of Mine. — 
 Warfare in the East formerly. — Formation of East India Company. — Political 
 Partizans. — Improvements under present Government. — Crossing Baj-onets. — 
 Energy of the Company. — Army. — Effective Police. — Row from Calicut.— Native 
 Methodists. — Munchil. — Travel by Water. — Pegu Pony. — Nev/- Acquaintance. — 
 Munchil Race. — Height of Ground. — Cold Weather 203-2 U 
 
 "Boniflice." — Ootacamund. — Coup de Soleil. — Opinion of the Government. — Obsti- 
 nate Bullocks. — Luggage Wet.— Mysore. — Forced Honors. — Hyder All's History. 
 —Large Army on small Scale.— Seringapatam.— Duke of Wellington's DebOt. — 
 Credulous Traveller. — Hyder All's Tomb,— Bangalore. — Visit of Ceremony. — 
 Mess Dinners. — Exciting Ride.— Cockney on the Points of a Horse. — Hospitable 
 Officer. — Services in India.— Indian Etiquette. — 15th Hussars— Love of Sport. — 
 Difficulty in Horse-flesh. — Mess Dinner Speech.— Musical Lieutenant.— Hussar 
 Manoeuvre.— Liver Complaint. — Doing John Company. — Mid-day Games.— Col- 
 lection of Seeds. — Monkeys. — Indian Army. — Tapai or Post. — Dinner at Col. 
 M 's 211-229 
 
 CETLON — INDIAN OCEAN — CHINA. 
 
 Journey to Madras. — ^Hot Night. — Bachelor Accommodations.— Sir Henry Pct- 
 tinger's Breakflist. — St. Thomas.— Arsenal. — Profitable Exchange — Escape from a 
 
CONTENTS. xiii 
 
 Blunder. —Seven Pagodas.— Brahminism. — Bhuddists.— Breakfast. — American Ice. 
 — Missionary Press of Americans. — American Presses. — Mordecai's Artillery. — Dr. 
 Scudder. — Mi.ssions in India. — Catamarans. — Unpleasant Ship. — Cocoanut Uses. — 
 Columbo. — Unexpected Visitor. — Japanese Customs. — Penang. — Mangastines. — 
 Singapore. — Pine Apples. — Lotus. — Hong Kong. — American Sailors. — Pirate's 
 Offering. — Warm "Weather. — Hong Kong Club. — Sail to Canton. — Opium Ships. — 
 Canton Customs. — A Queer Customer. — Hongs. — Population. — Floating Popula- 
 tion. — Yachts. — The Challenge Clipper. — Chinese Shop Signs. — Exclusiveness of 
 the Cantonese. — Flagstaff DifBculty. — Chinese Coin. — Honan Temple. . ..230-254 
 Commodore Perry. — Pocket Picked. — Tj'ping-Wang's Eeligion. — North River 
 Sloop. — Executions in Canton. — Hospital and Infirmary of Dr. Parker. — Summer 
 Gardens. — French Jesuits — American Ice. — Russian Steamer. — Chinese Dinner. — 
 Birds' Nest Soup. — Salt Collector. — Interpreters. — Russian Embassy. — Pekin. — 
 Fourth of Jul}'. — Canton. — Sensible Dress — Young America in Canton — Inso- 
 lence of the Chinese. — Notes given to settle Treaty. — Yankee Skipper. — Sugges- 
 tion for Surveys. — American Enterprise. — Sail to Macao. — Crusty Frenchman. — 
 Dog Fancier.— Evening Visits. — New Acquaintance. — Dinner Party. — "Weather- 
 wise Chinaman. — American Missionary. — Indulging in Fine Arts. — Sketching 
 under Difficulties — Sail to Hong Kong. — Mr. Harris. — American Sail Boat. — 
 Pleasure Party to Karhng. — Chinese Muster of Recruits — Dinner at 59tli Mess. — 
 English Ignorance of America. — American Enterprise. — Voj-age to Singapore. — 
 Timid Captain. — Mustering Ship's Crews. — Pleasant Surprise. — Getting back 
 Caste. — Native Sympathy. — Business at Singapore. — Crews in Australia. — Con- 
 stitutionals. — Col. M "s Opinion of the English. — Letters of Introduction. — 
 
 Chinese Fruit Painter. — New Dodge for a Card. — Dorian Fruit. — Lively Time. — L^n- 
 fortunate Passenger 254-276 
 
 J.WA. 
 
 Voyage to Batavia. — Banca Tin. — Arrival at Batavia. — Waterloo Column. — A Java 
 Currie Breakfast. — Dutch Exquisites. — Wanasapee. — American Energy. — Tiger 
 Shot. — Java Regent and Wife.— Kreis.— Hadji.— Gibson's Affair.— Buffaloes Fight 
 Tigers. — Stylish Earrings. — Beauty Adorned. — New Servant. — Government Ex- 
 tortion. — Geographical OfiScer. — Vanity. — Volcano. — Frugal Meal. — Foliage. — 
 Residents. — Visit to a Regent. — Stopping with a Regent. — Native Concert. — Un- 
 sophisticated Servant. — Heavy Stirrups 276-291 
 
 STRAITS — SINGAPORE — BENGAL. ' 
 
 Haunted House.— EightJi Wedding.— Breakdown.— Honorable Resident. — Native 
 Artist. — Rapid Travelling. — Java Climate. — Police. — Roads, how kept up. — 
 Queer Pets. — Early Morning Costume. — Passengers. — Letters. — Anticipation. — 
 Massacre. — American Steamers. — Nutmeg Plantation. — Kaiar Rope. — Japanese 
 Porcelain.— Chinese Undershirt. — Domestic Anaconda. — Christian Duty. — Sea 
 Weed.— Sweetmeats — Penang Lawyers. — Practising Shop. — Tea Brew. — Ben- 
 gal Pilots.— Amiable Officer. 291-305 
 
 Hoogly Current.- Suffocating Nights.— Calcutta Servant Experience.— Presenting 
 Introduction Letters —Sights in Calcutta.— Learning Hindoostanee —Hindoo Pro- 
 visions.— Fort William Shops —Colonel Low.— Difficulties at the North.— Indian 
 Fabrics.— Transit Coach.— Mint.— New Zealand CaterpQlars.- Arab Stables.— 
 
XIV COXTENTS. 
 
 Young Bengal — Master's Caste. — Commerce of Calcutta. — Commerce of Bombay. 
 — Commerce of Madras. — Pig Slicking. — Liver Complaint — Official Pay. — Gallant 
 Regiment. — Indian rrogre.s.iive J'lmiiire — Missionaiies 305-320 
 
 Barrackporc. — Ciiaudcraiiagore. — Dak Travelling. — Strong Bridge. — ICloqucnco. — 
 Quiet Cooly Train. — Opium. — I'atna. — Native Vehicle. — Granary. — Lodging-houso- 
 — Dinapore. — Owning up. — Gliazeeporo. — Timid Landlady. — Paleljotlira. — Din- 
 ner with ihe Governor. — Benares.— Penitential Travel — Disappointed Em- 
 ployes. — Di-iinguished American. — Tiger Sportsmen. — Native Devotion. — Be- 
 nares.— Ghauts.— Custard Apples 320-334 
 
 Chunar. — Longlegged God. — Beautiful Tomb. — Cholera in Benares. — Loci Kedudon. 
 
 — BliuddiSt Confessions of Failii. — Kin-Koh.s. — Manufactory. — Beautiful Dresses. 
 
 — Higli Flown Eastern Notes. — Benares College. — Durbar at the Rajah's. — Merze- 
 pore Merclianls. — Allahabad. — Native Superstition. — American Missionaries. — 
 Cool Sunnuer Air. — Missionary Press. — Cawnporo Wrongs Avenged 33-1-3-42 
 
 PUNJAUB. 
 
 Lucknow. — Resident. — Attempted A.ssassination. — La Martinicrc. — Promenade of 
 Tigers. — Chectur.s. — Cliarging a Mirror. — Choke — Misrule in Oude. — Enlisting 
 Tn)op.«. — Mutinous Spirit. — Ilavelock — Neill. — Sir Ileiirj^ Lawrence. — Merut. — 
 14th Light Dragoons. — Seidhana. — Mercenary Lady. — Outrageous OSicials. — 
 Begum Suniroo. — Quizzical Gaze. — Umballa. — Missionaries. — Laodiana. — Sikh 
 Campaigns — Umntza. — Sacred Tank. — Cashmere Shawls. — Sikh Troops. 343-360 
 
 CASnSIERE. 
 
 Letters of Introduction. — Lahore. — Tomb of Jehan Ghir. — Native Painting. — Sut- 
 ledge Campaign. — Settlement. — Shalimar. — Gardens. — Transplanting Trees. — Mu- 
 sical Fakeer. — Visit to the Jail — Cattle Tracker. — Thuggery.— Dower Settlement. 
 — Gunnny-hogard. — Grunth. — Cashmere Travel. — Chenaub. — Chillianwallali. — 
 Arabian Night Scene. — Pedestrianizing. — Jackal Serenade. — Amiable Native. — 
 Luxurious Meal. — Cuisine Instruction. — Musical Soldiers. — Coup de Soleil. — Ras- 
 cally Coohes 361-376 
 
 Herd of Monkeys — Beautiful Views. — Ducking. — Fakeer-host. — Deodars. — Moun- 
 tain Cro.«sing. — ''Lambing the Butler." — ■' Ilumbnggy Very Much." — Ilydaspcs. 
 — Uri Suspension Bridge. — River Travel — Native Thanks. — Kashmir — A'estige of 
 Civilization. — House Hunting. — Neighbors. — Canvas-back Ducks. — Maharajah's 
 Review. — Interview with Goolaub Singii. — Ca-shmere Tableland. — Mookti Shah's 
 Breakliist. — Ca.^hmere Shawls. — LoftN- Mountain Barrier. — Cashmere Killing Beef. 
 — Beauties.— Tukht-i-Suliman— Letters of Introduction. — Rat-race Course. 3 7 6-395 
 
 Catching Fish. — Duck Siiooling. — Unfortunate Servants. — Goolaub Singh's Wealth. 
 — Arbitrary Laws and Ta.xes. — Peppering a Man's Side. — Cashmere Sold to 
 Slavery. — Runaway Cooly. — Uncle Tom. — Hunting Suit. — Barasingh Stalking. — 
 Faithful Afghan. — Cashmere Insolence. — Merry Christmas —Santa Claus. — Koran- 
 Pandan Temple.— Pandan Dynasty. — Muskdeer — Christmas Dinner. — Sudden 
 Indisposition. — Levying Coolies — Smallpox. — Good Shooting. — Leojjard and Trap. 
 — Medical Practice. — Vacant Sick Room. — Receipt for Sleeping Warm. — Doctors' 
 Quarrel. — Medical Faith — Large Trees. — Islamabad . . .395-407 
 
 Game. — Caslnncre Shawl Manufacture. — Mi.shad-bagh. — Beautiful Sunset. — Char- 
 Chunar Island. — Shalimar. — Garden of Lalla Rookli — Moore's Poetic Ii.^lo and 
 
COXTENTS. XY 
 
 my Matter-of-Fact — New Year's Dinner with P. — Aralanc'ie. — Bath. — Em- 
 broidered Shawls. — Quality of Shawls. — Cold Water Bathing — Thibet People. — 
 Profit of Maharajah in Shawls. — Marriage to Sisters-in-Law. — Bearers' Prayer. — 
 Unhappy Prisoner. — Harriet Beecher Stowc, by P. — Unicorn. — Xo Snow and 
 Alarm — Beauty of Kashmir. — Bad Luck to Finish a House 407^17 
 
 Gunning Punt. — Gun. — Modest Boatman's Daughter. — Unexpected Cooks. — Twig 
 
 Rope Bridge. — Piunaway Coolies. — Wedding Procession — Stealing Chickens. — 
 
 \ Disregard of Maharajah — Polyphemus' Oar. — Indian Corn. — Familiar Trees — 
 
 Murree. — Products of Cashmere. — Dafibdils. — Uncomfortable "Walk. — Curing a 
 
 Sick Cooley — ''Uncle Tom" to the Thamidar. — Stopping at Captain C 's — Din- 
 
 h<j at 87th Mess. — Col. B., 32d Queen's. — Letters of Introduction. — Mail 
 Cirt 41 8-127 
 
 Beartrs lleposing. — Arrival at Peshawur. — Appointments. — Banks Conducive to 
 Deb;. — Captain and ilrs. S. — Ladies' Health in India. — Pig Sticking. — English 
 Slave Selling Captain. — English Sympathy for Slavery. — Slaves in India. — 
 ADrite. — Major Edwards. — Visit to Peshawur. — SnuO'. — Fruit. — Dinner at the 9th 
 Infty. KcRS. — KhyberPass. — Afghans. — Troops on Guard. — Tamara. — Spearing an 
 Orange.— Artillery Mess Dinner. — Colonel Halifax, 75th Queen's. —Earthquake. — 
 Birthda}-.— Calculating Yankee. — " Chicky." — Private Houses. — Antiquity ot 
 Peshawur.— Expected Trouble. — Cotton Carpets 427-440 
 
 Getting a Gufj-d.— A Night in the Fort. — Hassan- Abdul. — Troops Firing by Sec- 
 tions. — Avemge Height. — Bucephalus' Monument. — Throttling a Kitmagar. — R»- 
 turn to Lahore. — Sikh Swords. — Government Assistance to American Mis- 
 Bionaries. — Cottributions of Civil and Military. — Only American ever in Kashmir. 
 — General IlarUn. — ilaking Ice. — Indian Precociousne.ss. — Quiet of Sikh Country. 
 — Punjaub Campaign — New Prescription. — Pic-Nic. — Murder of W. — Echoes. — 
 Telegraph.— Stormy Nights.— Sacred Hurdwar. — Happy Butler 441-454 
 
 NORTH-WEST PR0TIXCE3. 
 
 Pleasant Ride.— Mr. Campbell.— Dinner Party.— Pay for Attending College.— Ex- 
 cavating Tubes.— Battlctield of Hindoos.— Elephant Ride.— Holy Water Mer- 
 chants. — Hurdwar — Fairs at Hurdwar. — Tribute to E. I. Company's Management. 
 —Gratitude to Dliooly.— Delhi. — Presenting Letters. — Palace Citadel.— Sir Charles 
 Napier's Suggestion. — Contrast of Services. — Old Charley. — Various Delhis. — 
 Jehanahad— Nadir Shah.— Monolith — Holding Bazaar.— Kootub and Toolaka- 
 bad. — Timid Dak Proprietor. — Beresford and Family Murdered 455-460 
 
 Agra. — Presenting Letters. — Sightseeing Palace Citadel. — Sights. — Native Musi- 
 cian. — Amalgamation — Secundra. — Missionaries. — Bhurt pore. — Futtepore Se- 
 kree — Muttra. — Goverdund.— Starvation — Ingenuity — Kri.shna and Milkmaids. 
 — Underfastidious. — Eccentric Banker. — Review. — Battlefield of Maharajpore. — 
 Presenting Letter at Gwalior. — Gaieties. — Visiting the Fortress. — Contingent 
 Officers.—" Homes in the New World." 466-4S4 
 
 Visit to the Rajah of Gwalior.— Topsy Sung.— Letters of Introduction.— Reading 
 Service.— Uncertainty of Life.— Style of Ladies in India. — Gates of Sumnaut.— 
 Taj. — Noor Mahal— Start for Bombay Again. — Antelopes. — Scrupulous Brahmin. 
 — Jypore Residency.— Bloomers. — Sights.— Revenue. — Treasure Escort.— Ajmere. 
 — Colonel Dixon and his Improvements. — Plundering Rajahs — Revenue. — Nus- 
 seerabad.— Chcetore.— Sporting Acquaintances 4S5-497 
 
XVI CONTENTS. 
 
 BOMBAY rUESIDENCY. 
 
 Oodeypore. — Elegant Rajali. — Colonel Lawrence's Letters. — Game Preserves. — 
 Beautiful Lake and Pavilions. — Choking Camel Men. — Escort. — Luxurious Larder. 
 — Justice to Village Authority. — Transport up the Mountain. — Large Mungoose. — 
 Moimt Aboo. — Famous Jain Temples. — Priests. — Experience in Afghanistan. — 
 Deesa. — Ahmcdabad. — Expensive Travel. — Cambay. — Suspicious Funeral Pile.— 
 Sail to Surat. — Little Pauls and Virginias. — Parsees and Jewelry, — Bombay. — 
 Grand Vizier's Letters. — Attack of Cholera. — Drive on the "Ptcach." -^98 
 
 Easter Sunday. — Enviable Kiss. — Parsee Flight. — Invent a Religion. — Cockrrach 
 Destruction. — Robbery. — One-Eighth Felicity. — Ciiarming Passengers. — Frats, 
 &c. — Colonel Neill. — A Plunge and Stars. — Port St. Louis. — Mauritiu.s. — Sugar 
 Exported. — Fish Market. — Paul and Virginia's Tomb. — Labors of Americaa Mis- 
 sionaries. — India Government. — Travellers' Books. — Low Partisans. — Mil-admi- 
 nistration of Justice.— Fortune. — Villanies 499-417 
 
 Defect of Government. — Passage of Bill. — Board of Control. — Afghan Wa;. — Scinde 
 Conquest. — Commander-in-Chief — Disasters in War. — Sale of Cashmere. — Effec- 
 tive Soldiers of India. — Lord Dalhousie. — Canals in India. — Expense of Indian 
 Government. — Government of India. — Annexations. — Races of Indii. — Farming. 
 — Diseases. — Crimes. — Precious Stones. — Opium Revenue. — Dacca Muslin. — Fila- 
 gree. — Sword Blades. — Cannon. — Ancient Cities. — Buildings. — Expense of Tra- 
 vel 417-526 
 
ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 PAOB 
 
 1. FRONTISPIECE: 
 
 THE AUTHOB IK THE ASAB DRESS HE WOBE TO PALMTBA. 
 
 2. VIGXETTE: 
 
 A DELHI PSINCESS. 
 
 8. WEDDING DRESS AT SAETEESDALEN, 20 
 
 4. DESCENT TO THE DANNEMORA IRON MINES, 26 
 
 5. ESCAPE OF PETER THE GREAT FEOM THE STRELITZES INTO 
 
 TROITZKA MONASTERY, 86 
 
 6. TARANTAS TRAVELLING, 44 
 
 T. A TRAVELLER'S IDEA OF ORDER, 64 
 
 8. RUINS OF PRIAM'S PALACE, TROT, 62 
 
 9. RUINS OF THE TEMPLE OF JUPITER OLYMPUS, ATHENS, ... 70 
 
 10. PLAIN OF THE LAW-GIVING AND MT. SINAI, 76 
 
 11. CORINTHIAN TOMBS, PETRA, 82 
 
 12. EL DHIR, PETRA, 86 
 
 13. JEWS' PLACE OF WAILING, 92 
 
 11. OLD CHURCH AT DAMASCUS, 96 
 
 15. BAALBEC 100 
 
 16. ALHAMBRA, GRENADA', 106 
 
 17. DINNER AT THE BET'S, 110 
 
 18. PERGAMUS, 114 
 
 19. THYATIRA, 118 
 
 23. SARDIS 122 
 
 21. EPUESUS, 128 
 
 22. 2.3. TWO ZEBEQUE8— LEBANON MULETEER, 182 
 
 24. CEDARS OF LEBANON 186 
 
 25 HADJ RETURNING FROM MECCA, 142 
 
 26. ENTRANCE TO THE GRAND COLONNADE, PALMYRA, .... 140 
 
 27. GRAND COLONNADE, 152 
 
 28. CAVE TEMPLE, ELEPHANTA, 160 
 
 29. OLD TOMB AT SURAT, 166 
 
 30. JAIN TEMPLES AT POLYTANNA, 1T2 
 
 81. PATRIARCHAL EMBRACE— TRIMBUC. ISO 
 
XVIU ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 PAOR 
 
 83. KVLAS TKMPLE AT ELLORA l-<8 
 
 8a DOWLATAIJAl) KOKTRKSS 195 
 
 84. PAK-KK STOUE, TOON All— ANCIENT CAVE CIIIRACTER, KARLEE, . 2C3 
 
 85. KARLEE CAVE TEMPLE 2C8 
 
 86. TOMB OK MAIIOMMKDSIIAir, BEEJAPORE ^10 
 
 8T. TOMB OF IBIIAIIIM ADIL i^llMl, 233 
 
 83. ST. JOHN'S CHURCH, GOA 243 
 
 89. OUSSUPl'A FALLS 252 
 
 40. UYDKR ALl'S TOMB, SERINGAPATAM, 2frl 
 
 41. SEVEN PAGODAS, NEAR MADRAS, 274 
 
 42. 43. 44. RAJAH— WIFE— CHINA BOATWO.MEN, 284 
 
 45. JAVA HOrSE 5:93 
 
 46. 47. 48. WATERING STREETS IN BATAVIA— POST COACHMAN— SI ND EL- 
 
 LA THE GUE.VT CAFFRE CHIEF, 238 
 
 49. DAK TRAVELLING IN BENGAL, 810 
 
 60. BENARES, 323 
 
 01. CHUNAR FORTRESS, 330 
 
 62. CAWNPORE 340 
 
 6a LUCKSOW, 853 
 
 64. LAHORE, 863 
 
 65. APPROACH TO CASHMERE, 874 
 
 66. SHAM-DAM, MOSQUE, 354 
 
 6T. KORAN PANDAN TEMPLE, KASHMIR, S94 
 
 63. CHAE-CHUNAR ISLAND 4C2 
 
 69. SHALIMAR GARDEN, KASHMIR, 414 
 
 60. JHELUM AND BRIDGE 426 
 
 61. SUSPENSION BRIDGE, URI 436 
 
 C2. MONUMENT TO BUCEPHALUS 444 
 
 63. ATTOCK 454 
 
 64. HURDWAR, 4fi6 
 
 65. DELHI 473 
 
 66. C7. SACRED SIKH TANK. UMRITZUR— PALACE, HALL OF AUDIENCE, 
 
 "AND OH! IF THERE BE AN ELYSIUM," etc. 490 
 
 63. 69. PEACOCK THRONE, DELHI— INTERIOR OF THE TAJ, AGRA, . . 5J0 
 
 TO. TAJ, MAHAL, AND AGRA 610 
 
 Tl. PREPARING FOR A SUTTEE, 516 
 
FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 Copenhage:n', June 29, 1851. 
 
 My Dear Mother : — I am off for Caslimere : so good-bye to 
 you, Wall street, briefs, and " Code." En j^assant, stopped in 
 London to see the opening of tbe Great Exliibition, be presented 
 to the Queen, and gaze at the three great notabilities, "The 
 Duke," Cardinal Wiseman, and the hippopotamus. Then to 
 P.iris for a glimpse at the Prince President. 
 
 This morning steamed into Copenhagen, accompanied by a 
 friend from the "sunny South," who is to share the "roughs 
 and tumbles" with me. I was much amused at the clumsy 
 way we came into dock, a matter so skilfully done by our 
 captains. 
 
 To-day our steamer acquaintances and we (a designation I 
 shall always hereafter give to express my friend and self) formed 
 a large party for sight-seeing. Started under convoy of a huge 
 negro guide, a freed or escaped slave from the West Indies, who 
 was a fund of amusement for the party, with his exaggerated 
 style of dress, and assumption of " easy assurance," dignity, and 
 information, for me especially, from the patronizing condescen- 
 sion he was constantly displaying to my little Southern friend. 
 Our party was a strange medley — a German, a Finlander, an 
 Englishman, my friend, and self With our patronizing guide, 
 we felt like a lot of school-boys on a holiday excursion. 
 
14 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 Our first pause, at the Eosenburg Palace, wliere the kings of 
 Denmark formerly resided, but now only a show palace — a 
 curious looking brick affair, said to have been planned by Inigo 
 Jones. It contains many objects of curiosity, the royal armory 
 and some old china, among it the first porcelain ever brought to 
 Denmark, which the king, fearful of its breaking, from its trans- 
 lucency, had lined with silver. In another apartment, a curious 
 suit of " horse furniture," ornamented with pearls and diamonds 
 — cost $20,000, a present from one of the kings to his son. 
 
 Thence to the Church — Thorwaldsen's twelve apostles, in 
 marble, and considered among the finest of his works. At the 
 Museum are plaster casts of all his works, many of them in mar- 
 ble. He presented them to Denmark : they are very beautiful, 
 but none of them pleased me more than some of Crawford's. 
 On the outside of the building is a representation, in fresco, of 
 his reception on his return from Italy. His countrymen, from 
 king to peasant, all idolized him. His tomb is in the quadrangle 
 of the building : over it a vase filled with plants in bloom. In- 
 dulging the Anglo-Saxon taste for mementoes, I plucked a 
 flower ; souvenirs that recall pleasant hours. 
 
 The Museum of Antiquities contains much that is interesting 
 — commencing with arms and coins from a very early period, 
 when payments were made by weight, and one's purse full of 
 money was a coil of precious metal, and the pocket-knife fur- 
 nished from it the small change. Among the spectators was 
 an Englishwoman, without an escort, — one of that much sympa- 
 thized class, " an unprotected female." 
 
 This evening visited the summer garden, -which, from the 
 number and variety of amusements, would seem to have com- 
 prised all in the city. Our colored guide affords me more amuse- 
 jnent than anybody I have seen for a long time. As he struts 
 and swaggers in the plenitude of his importance, he flourishes his 
 hand and hat with condescending politeness to gentleman and 
 peasant, who return it with a seeming consciousness of his im- 
 portance. He pats my Southern friend on the shoulder, and 
 
A BREEZE. 15 
 
 whispers to my Englisli acquaintance and self. Copenliagen, 
 from the warm weather, is comparatively dull ; the war of the 
 Duchies lends a helping hand to stupefy, and the king adds the 
 climax by his own domestic scandal. He is a most disreputable 
 fellow, twice married and divorced, and now again married to a 
 woman of neither character nor birth, of the Lola Montez genus. 
 The merchants appear to live in considerable style, but our 
 blackey, with a contemptuous toss of the head, and flourish of 
 
 his skirts, said they were not worth a d d cent. You will 
 
 doubtless admire his elegant and graphic style. 
 
 There are many pleasant walks, especially near the moat. 
 Attached to the Bourse is a curious tower or spire, formed by 
 four twisted dragons, the heads, bodies, and tails forming an 
 exterior spiral stairway. The Observatory has so wide and gra- 
 dual an ascent that two carriages may be drawn up abreast. 
 
 From Copenhagen steamed to Christiania, in Norway, in a very 
 nice boat ; ofl&cers and steamer attached to the Norwegian navy. 
 
 July Zd. — Stopped at Elsinore a short time ; saw the old 
 Castle of Konigsberg, a fine, large structure. The boat was 
 very crowded ; of us one attended to the luggage, and the other 
 secured a cabin. We were among the very few who did ; most 
 of our acquaintances slept in the salon^ and toileted in our cabin. 
 
 One of our compatriots, a vulgar, tobacco-expectorating brag- 
 gart, from somewhere on the outskirts of civilization. South or 
 "West, being among the number of unfortunates in the salon^ had 
 laid his coat on a sofa to secure it, and returning to take posses- 
 sion in the evening, found a young cockney reposing on it. 
 "Without asking him to let him have the place claimed by his 
 coat, which would instantly have been done, he came up to me 
 to ask if it was not the place he had taken. On my saying, 
 " Yes" (as I had been talking to him at the time he took it), he 
 went out and brought the captain in, who was wondering what 
 was to follow this unexpected captivity, when the compatriot 
 asked if it was not the custom when the steamer was full, and a 
 
16 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 gentleman laid liis coat on a sofa to claim a place, for the coat to 
 keep tlic place ? " Certainly," replied the bewildered captain ; 
 
 '* Then I'm d d if I don't have my rights, as a free-born 
 
 American citizen." The rest of the Americans " vamoosed." The 
 cockney, who had been waked up by the tumult, seeing he was 
 " the observed of all observers," and not being accustomed to 
 Western braggadocio, made tracks to avoid the too intimate 
 acquaintance of bowie-knife or revolver. 
 
 Among our passengers was a very gentlemanly and well- 
 known Bostonian. There was also a Norwegian who had gone 
 to America nine years before as a boy of sixteen. Getting 
 employment on a merchant vessel, by his intelligence and atten- 
 tion to his duties, he had risen to be first mate of a five-hundred- 
 ton ship, lying at Elsinorc ; he was now going to visit his family 
 for the first time since he left them. On his return to America he 
 was ])romiscd the command of another ship. He amused us all, 
 and especially the Norwegian ofiicers, on the subject of blacks, 
 who arc thought as much of by them as of whites — while in 
 changing his country he had adopted American views. 
 
 In these high latitudes you can read by the twilight all night. 
 This evening I was reading on the deck till past twelve. The 
 Fiord is covered with vessels, the views beautiful, constantly in 
 sight of land on one side, and now on both sides. One evening 
 came to anchor in the little bay of Walloe ; we all took boats 
 and v;cnt off on explorations. My friend and I, among other 
 places, visited an old church and burial-ground. Of the curious 
 inscriptions — one of a man and wife who had lived together hap- 
 pily fifty years, and left nine borne ; twenty-one borne, borne ; 
 and seven borne, borne, borne. The first borne meaning chil- 
 dren ; the second, grandchildren ; and third, great-grandchildren. 
 
 A sail of two days brought us this morning to Christiania, 
 which lies at the head of the bay or fiord, with a fine approach. 
 
 July 4:tJi. — This being the king's birth-day, all the flags were 
 flying, and when we reached the hotel, ours too, in honor of our 
 
GILLEY, THE COURIER. 17 
 
 country's birth-daj. My patriotic friena had among his luggage 
 a fine American flag, worked by the fair hands of one of his 
 charming countrywomen, and a jointed flag -staff, cut at Washing- 
 ton's tomb by the President, Mr. Fillmore, and given to him by 
 the advice and legal opinion of the Secretary of State and Attor- 
 ney-General, Messrs. "Webster and Crittenden, thus forming an 
 amusing souvenir and episode in its history. 
 
 We engaged a courier, his recommendation being that he was 
 the best in the place, and could speak English ; but we found his 
 vocabulary very limited in addressing us, and apparently still 
 more so, when we addressed him. Then took a carriage to 
 Johnsrud and Kraglaven for a very fine sunrise view. We were 
 on the ground the next morning at two, just half an hour too 
 late, but the view alone more than paid for the drive. The 
 morning was lovely, and a better pen than mine required to 
 describe the landscape at our feet. The view was most extensive, 
 belted by snow-clad mountains, seventy miles distant, while 
 streams, cascades, and lakes, lent their charm to the nearer hills 
 and valleys, now half concealed by morning mist, while here 
 and there a farm or house peered through it, like a flower-bed 
 plot, and the tinkling cowbells were the only evidence of life. 
 
 On our return I found at the Athenceum two New York 
 Papers, a luxury you can scarce appreciate, as you never fail to 
 see a daily paper. 
 
 July 8th. — Yesterday we started on a tour inland ; to-day 
 reached Minde, on a beautiful lake (Morsin). Our equipage, the 
 best we could find, a miniature Noah's ark, the wheels the size 
 of a handbarrow's. Our courier, whose name we, for conve- 
 nience, have abbreviated to Gilley, acted in the double capacity 
 of charioteer and courier ; his bappy old face beaming with 
 pleasure, and a grin from ear to ear, whenever we spoke. To 
 our anxious inquiries, if he was certain he knew how to drive, 
 he gave an extra grin and his horses an additional cut with the 
 whip, and replied, "Oh, yes; oh, yes; he drive well, he drive 
 
 2 
 
18 . FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 quick ;" then cherup to his poor little team. We've had all sorts 
 of a time, first terribly dusty, then a pelting rain, terminating with 
 hail. Reached our stopping-place about half-past eleven at 
 night ; and next morning, while breakfasting, were joined by a 
 very nice fellow, a young Englishman, who had lately left the 
 army. 
 
 To-day, being Sunday and a holiday, numbers of vehicles 
 were constantly arriving. The usual vehicle of travel is what is 
 -called a " carry-all," as if in burlesque of its capacity, which is 
 limited to one person and a small carpet bag, while the post-boy, 
 if you have one, rides the horse. 
 
 My friend has just been trying to make our brilliant courier 
 understand we want an early breakfast, with coffee, eggs, and 
 a beefsteak broiled, to which he has just replied, "Yes, yes, I 
 understand, coffee, eggs, and beefsteak toiled f so we sent him 
 for the article to be sure. He returned with a nondescript, looking 
 like a relic of the crusades, an old vizor, about six inches 
 diameter, so you may imagine what our steak will be like. 
 
 Our landlord has been in a side room all day playing cards, 
 and some neighbors rolling nine-pins. But as we go at five, by 
 the Damshift (steamboat), to-morrow morning, I must say hon nuit, 
 though broad daylight. 
 
 We were all on board in good season, Gilley looking much 
 the happiest of the party. There are a great number of passen- 
 gers, every man and boy with his pipe and pouch. 
 
 The day has been lovely, and the entire sail of eighty miles a 
 succession of beautiful views, interspersed with evidences of sub- 
 stantial prosperity in good farms and houses, with a well-clad 
 people. 
 
 We undertook to journalize in the cabin, but the tobacco 
 smoke and discordant snoring so discomposed eyes and ears, we 
 were forced to beat a retreat. To-day we returned to Chris- 
 tiania, weary and worn, while poor Gilley could scarce muster a 
 -ghastly smile instead of his usual broad grin. We met some 
 •engineers who are constructing a railroad along the river, and 
 
GOTTENBURG. 19 
 
 then drove to Hunefoss or Dog-fall, a fine cascade about fifteen 
 miles north of Lillehammer, 
 
 For two days it has rained most of the time. Yesterday, at 
 the hotel where we stopped, they gave us for dinner a fish much 
 praised in this country, which they called Eeck ; on close inspec- 
 tion I found it to be an old acquaintance, — the spotted trout. 
 
 To-day we found a small mountain-torrent had, in one place, 
 made a deep gully in the road, so sent Gilley after some farmers, 
 and in a short time had a specimen of a Norwegian impromptu 
 bridge. Labor is very cheap here ; most of the men we met on 
 the road only receiving about two shillings and sixpence, of our 
 money, per day ; their diet light. The king has a very pretty 
 palace here, and the country contains one nobleman, who must 
 have a jovial time if he confines himself, when here, to those of 
 his own rank. 
 
 GoTTENBURG, July 14. — After ten delightful days in Norway, 
 came to this place, about two thirds of the way down the Fiord, 
 one of the most beautiful bodies of water in the world ; more than 
 one hundred miles you are surrounded by grand and varying 
 scenery. 
 
 Last night was tempestuous, and passed midst the discordant 
 sounds of a creaking vessel and the moans of the seasick. 
 Among the passengers, a Norwegian from New York, who asked 
 about many New Yorkers he knew (in a professional way, I 
 presume, as he was a practising dentist). 
 
 The only satisfactory lodgings we could find were kept by a 
 bowing, scraping Jew. Having secured our passage in the 
 canal-boat for Stockholm, joined some Scotchmen, who came 
 down the Fiord with us, and had been making a pedestrian tour 
 through Norway, We dined at the Laurenceberg Gardens, a 
 pretty resort just out of town ; on our return passed through the 
 artillery parade ground, where some soldiers were amusing them- 
 selves tossing unlucky comrades in a blanket. 
 
 On returning our little Jew host, with a profusion of bows, 
 
20 FROM WALL STEEET TO CASUMERE. 
 
 tried to sell us something ; first it was some Elderberry wine, 
 very fine, of whicli he had only three bottles left ; then sundry 
 other things, concluding with such a convenient pocket-book; 
 but, unfortunately, we were not in want of anything. He has 
 been endeavoring to persuade us to leave our things here until 
 our return ; in his excitement he rattled away in Swedish, and 
 pulling out some of his grey hairs, pointed to them and the 
 things, from which, I gathered, he liicant not a hair of them 
 would be touched. 
 
 The town is small, neat, and flourishing, of about 87,000. In 
 these northern latitudes the excessive formality of politeness is 
 very disagreeable, more than I have ever seen before, not only 
 bowing to every other man you meet but taking off your hat. 
 
 In Norway there is a curious custom. On rising from table, the 
 father, mother, and children kiss each other, shaking hands with 
 their guests, hope the meal will do them no harm — that of the 
 parents and children I witnessed on board of the steamer. 
 
 July 15 — Falls of Trall-hatten. — Came on here this morn- 
 ing, via the Gotha Canal, which crosses through the centre and 
 garden of Sweden to Stockholm, which route we shall continue 
 to-morrow. This is a succession of small falls or very heavy 
 rapids, and very grand, being ■ the whole body of the river ; 
 approaching it are some fine locks, though in number do not 
 compare with Lockport on the Erie Canal. 
 
 July 22 — Stockholm. — The jar of the small steamer used on 
 the canal has prevented my letter-journalising until our arrival 
 here. I had barely time to make a half-way sketch of the rapids 
 when the boat arrived, and very full — ^by good luck all very nice 
 people. In Sweden they have a curious custom in the navy ; 
 every five years (I think) an officer is allowed leave of absence 
 for about three years, when he seeks employment in the mer- 
 chant steamers, and thus receives increased pay. This was the 
 case with our captain. His father, the oldest admiral in the 
 
in' ' II) ' f ' ^*^^\#t' 
 
 Sketched by the Author. See page 
 
 WEDDING COSTUME AT SAETEESDALEN, NOEWAY. 
 
i 
 
YANKEE DOODLE WITH VARIATIONS. 21 
 
 service, was on board with his family : Miss Bremer's two sisters, 
 and brother-in-law, who had some high position at court, besides 
 sundry others, one a very nice fellow, formerly an officer in the 
 guards, who, in his boyhood, had gone to South America for his 
 health, and there became very intimate with the officers of some 
 of our ships of war. His great delight was to start a discussion 
 between my Scotch friends and me about the respective merits of 
 England and America; and, as it is a subject the natives of 
 the two countries can never agree upon, we always changed it ; 
 but there was no evading his ingenuity, and the moment he 
 succeeded he would rub his hands in his glee, washing them 
 " with invisible soap." 
 
 My friend soon made the acquaintance of Miss Bremer's 
 family, having entertained her at his house only a few evenings 
 before leaving America. The passengers all spoke English or 
 French, and we had the most delightful voyage, or journey, since 
 leaving home. 
 
 The scenery gentle but beautiful ; passed through several lakes, 
 "Wettern (which is very large), Werner, and Malar, In the 
 former stands the finest fortification in Sweden — capable of con- 
 taining 20,000 men — and called Wanas. My companion told the 
 admiral of his having the American flag ; he expressed a wish 
 to see it ; and my friend asked to have it hoisted in passing the 
 fort, which the admiral requested his son to do. My officer 
 friend endeavored to recall (to some returning musicians, by 
 whistling) the air of Yankee Doodle, and finally got it, after their 
 own fashion, with any number of unheard of variations ; and 
 the most enthusiastic Yankee would have been much puzzled to 
 "guess" the air except from the intention. He told me how 
 near he was joining our navy, and wound up by saying what a 
 good American he was ; and then, giving me a wink, told my 
 Scotch acquaintances, sitting at my side, that he had learned 
 "so many American songs on the Macedonian, captured from 
 the English," and began singing some of our naval victories. 
 He then alluded to our successes over the English, till he had 
 
22 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 excited my friends' national pride and produced the discussion he 
 was wishing. On bidding him good-bye, at Stockholm, he took 
 my hand, asked me the course of my wanderings, then shaking 
 it warmly, said, "Then you go home — then you marry — then 
 may you be happy as I be." I heartily joined him in the last 
 wish, for he had one of the handsomest, finest women I've met 
 since I left home — not to speak of her " solid charms^ 
 
 Wc stopped at Motala, which has the finest iron-works in 
 Sweden, Iron steamers, steam-engines, rolling mills, etc., are 
 made here. Government is making great efforts to improve 
 their various manufactures; and young men are sent to Eng- 
 land to learn the method of making cutlery. I saw some 
 good machinery, and small steamers for the Eussian govern- 
 ment. In passing the locks we all got out and walked. 
 Once we stopped to see the grave of Admiral Plattan, the 
 De Witt Clinton of this canal. It .docs not lead direct to 
 Stockholm, but reaches the coast some distance south, and 
 then the steamer coasts through a beautiful, but most dense, 
 archipelago of islands and rocks, the passage so winding that 
 frequently you cannot see a clear course one hundred feet ahead, 
 making navigation dangerous and most diflicult. 
 
 Last evening we were all to bed early, with repeated injunc- 
 tions to be called before daylight, as the approach to Stockholm 
 is much admired. "We were on deck by three o'clock ; alas for 
 our pleasant anticipations ; it was raining in torrents, but, well 
 wrapped up, we waited for the first glimpse. A venerable Jew 
 crawled out, sans cravat^ with dressing-gown and slippers ; next 
 our two Scotchmen ; but the rain was too much for my com- 
 pagnon de voyage^ and he tumbled into his berth again. "We held 
 on only to be disappointed. Though fine in sunshine, the 
 view was dreary enough in a pelting rain. 
 
 Here our luggage had to be re-examined. Our new acquaint* 
 
 ance, Mr. G (the brother-in-law of Miss Bremer), sent his 
 
 servant for a guide and carriage, and we are now snugly lodged 
 in private apartments, clean, and supplied with every comfort 
 
THE DALECARLIANS. 23 
 
 and one su2:)erfluous luxury (fleas). We liave a most provokinglj 
 stupid servant, or commissionnoAre, on whom we expend patience 
 and abuse successively. He occasionally allows his sympathy 
 for Americans to break forth in a condolatory strain, regretting 
 Mr. Ellsworth behaved so badly ; defrauding the custom-house 
 while Charge d'affaires and hurting America — ^but always con- 
 cludes with '■^hut he was a goodman^ 
 
 On our arrival we sent " old stupid " with cards and a note to 
 the Charge ^affaires to ask when we should call, and to " borrow 
 the loan " of American or English newspapers. He sent us the 
 late papers and an invitation to dine, en famille, to-day. We 
 met Mr. Cogswell, who was hunting up books for the Astor 
 Library, and had a delightful visit. 
 
 Sunday. — Lutheran church of St. Nicholas. I suppose the 
 service was very affecting, for I saw two women near me crying, 
 but as I never act without "a why and wherefore," I could not 
 sympathizingly join them from ignorance of the language. 
 The preacher wore a black gown, and the priest read the service 
 like a catholic. In the congregation were many Dalecarlians in 
 full costume ; they are from one of the northern districts, and 
 were the first to declare for Gustavus Yasa when Sweden 
 revolted from Denmark. They pride themselves on their inde- 
 pendence, and come down in large numbers during the summer 
 months to work ; the women mostly managing the small plea- 
 sure or passenger boats that ply between the islands and the 
 city. They all dress in their peculiar costume, which is quite; 
 picturesque. 
 
 This afternoon we crossed to one of the islands, and while 
 strolling through the grounds of one of the smaller palaces (of 
 which the king has fourteen, large and small) we were attacked 
 by a German professor, who would have us go in ; as it would 
 save expense for us and his family, we did so. It is tastefully 
 furnished with Dresden china; a table of malachite, one of 
 Sevres, an exquisite thing, and a present from Louis Philippe to 
 
24 FROM WAT.L STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 Bernadottc. In front of the palace are two large porphyry 
 vases, seven or eight feet high. We passed several places of 
 amusement and theatres, all apparently well attended ; our ser- 
 vant could not understand why we would not go in, especially 
 as the performances were better on Sunday than any other 
 day. 
 
 Yesterday we visited the Eidder-haus, or Knight's Parliament, 
 composed of heads of noble families. They had an animated 
 debate on the "school question." Then the church of Eidder- 
 haus — the royal burial-place, and repository of the remains of 
 many great generals ; those of Gustavus Adolphus and Charles 
 the Twelfth, together with the five thousand flags taken by the 
 various sovereigns, but mostly by Gustavus Adolphus, in the 
 Thirty Years' War. There are many equestrian figures, with 
 coats of armor w^orn by distinguished kings of Sweden. We 
 then visited the great palace, which incloses a vast quad- 
 rangle ; Bernadotte's bedroom, as he died ; in one room a picture 
 of his coronation, and another of himself, wife, children, and 
 grandchildren — a grand family group. Among the beautiful 
 objects of the palace are two handsome malachite vases five feet 
 liigh. 
 
 July 22nd. — To-day we went down to Drotningholm (or, 
 'Queen's Island), on the Malar lake, seven miles from Stockholm. 
 It is one of the finest palaces in the kingdom. The park 
 .almost equals Versailles, and has various cottages, Swiss and 
 ■Chinese, for the amusement of the royal family. Stockholm 
 is well built, with many large public edifices. It is subdivided 
 by numerous small streams or canals, and mostly built on piles. 
 The harbor is dotted with small islands, and the poetry of the 
 scene is heightened by the picturesque costume of the Dalecarlian 
 boatwomen. The country is prosperous; moderate taxes, no 
 .debt, and a large surplus in the treasury. 
 
 23(7. — To-day, the Museum of Antiquities. The collection is 
 
EN ROUTE FOR NEW UPSALA. 25 
 
 fine in coins, trinkets, and weapons found in this country from 
 the earliest period ; besides many curious things captured at 
 Prague during the Thirty Years' War (Gustavus Adolphus, 
 king of Sweden, being generalissimo of the allied Protestant 
 powers, against Austria and her allies) ; also, a curiously carved 
 piece of ivory, by one of her generals, during a long imprison- 
 ment at Copenhagen. A Swedish student, of Upsala, from the 
 Island of St. Bartholomew, had come here to be educated, had 
 graduated, was to be married in a few weeks, and return home. 
 He gave us much desirable information about Upsala, and the 
 Danamora iron mines, besides a letter to a friend of his, the 
 royal secretary, at Upsala. 
 
 Among the sights here is the market-place, where Christian 
 of Denmark, " The Tyrant," executed ninety Swedish noblemen 
 in one day ; among them, the father of Gustavus Vasa, who 
 revolutionized Sweden, and was made king. Dined as usual at 
 the club, where we had been introduced by our banker. Drove 
 to the telegraph, where we had a beautiful panoramic view of 
 Stockholm and its bay of islands. Returning, a Finnish acquaint- 
 ance joined us for the Deer Garden, a favorite afternoon resort, 
 where there were some fine tableaux vivants, besides equipages 
 of the nobility. 
 
 24:ih. — This morning started for New Upsala, by steamer, up 
 the lake. Shortly after, while we were talking to each other of 
 the pretty face and figure of a lady standing near us, Count 
 Sparr^!, whose mother, sister, and brother-in-law (my officer 
 friend), we had known on board the steamer from Gotten- 
 burg, came up and introduced himself, said he had been looking 
 for us in Stockholm several davs without success, and now was 
 on his way to his mother's, with his fiancee (the young lady we 
 had been noticing), who was a "maid of honor" to the Queen. 
 He wished us to go home and spend a few days at his house ; 
 but we had to decline on account of our engagements, though it 
 would have given us much pleasure to have accepted. 
 
2<j FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 The sail was fine up tlic lake , with, its small islands. "We 
 passed Sigtuna, the capitol, under Odin. We sent our letter and 
 cards to the secretary. While dining, a gentleman called, said 
 his friend was not at home, but he would show us the sights. 
 He took us to the College — a cluster of buildings, the students 
 living where they choose, and certain hours and days attending 
 at the professors' houses. The library is a fine building, of 
 130,000 volumes — many of them American ; saw one of the pro- 
 fessors who had lately returned from the United States — pleased 
 with his trip. Visited the cathedral, which contains the Tomb of 
 Gustavus Vasa, and frescoes of the four principal scenes in his life. 
 
 To-day, on to Danamora mines, thirty miles through a well 
 cultivated country. The place is filled with what looked like 
 paving stones of trap rock, but are pieces of iron ore. The pits 
 or mines vary from two to six hundred feet long, by one or two 
 hundred wide, and from four to five hundred feet deep ; though 
 there is one that is over seven hundred, perfectly dark. Over 
 most of them there is a wheel, with a wire rope about half an 
 inch in diameter, which also passes half a dozen times round a 
 cylinder about fifi;y feet distant, to keep the cord from slipping, 
 as there are two buckets, one descending as the other ascends. 
 The best mine is five hundred feet deep ; so we slipped on miners' 
 coats, and with a guide got into the bucket, a heavy affair, two 
 and a half feet high, by three in diameter. The man stood on 
 the rim to fend off from the rocks. We passed, on our passage, 
 a great number of dark caverns that had been explored for iron , 
 also little birds flying about. There was considerable ice and 
 snow on the rocks and at the bottom. Here they are just 
 beginning to make exploratory caverns or passages. After 
 warming up at the fire, and feeing the guide, we got in again, 
 and in five minutes were at the top. As it was near twelve, 
 when the men " knock off" for the day, and blast the morning 
 drills, we waited, and got a good place to see and hear ; such a 
 succession of terrific blasts I have never heard — old Jove's best 
 thunderbolts are child's-play to it. 
 
Sketched liy the Author. 
 
 DESCENT TO DANEMORA IRON MINES, SWEDEN. 
 
 See page 26, 
 
IRON MINES. 27 
 
 There are eiglity mines, but only forty-eight worked, and these 
 for only a small part of the year, as only a certain portion of 
 wood was allowed to be cut for smelting, lest it should be de- 
 stroyed. This restriction has been done away with for several 
 years, but the force of custom, I presume, has prevented any 
 change in the amount cut, notwithstanding the immense amount 
 of forest in the country — thus, much reducing the large quan- 
 tity that might be made in the country, and exported, for they 
 are forbid by law from exporting unsmelted ore. The annual 
 average produced within the last five years by these celebrated 
 mines, is only 300,000 tons ; the quantity manufactured, about 
 130,000 tons, and 100,000 tons of bar iron. Two-fifths of the 
 pig iron is purchased and manufactured into bar iron, by iron 
 masters, who do not own mines ; the remainder is manufactured 
 by the companies who own the mines. The best iron is found 
 in the Upsala district, at Danamora or Soderby, which contains 
 the forges. 
 
 There are 4,000 tons made here annually. It is the best in iJie 
 world for steel ! The iron made in Sweden is superior to that of 
 other countries, from being smelted by charcoal instead of other 
 coal or peat. Of the 70,000 tons exported, 33,000 are used in 
 England; 20,000 in the United States ; 8,000 in Denmark; and 
 5,000 in France. 
 
 Stopped at Old Upsala, visiting the tombs and tumuli of Odin 
 and his family ; drank mead out of his horn. Saw the old 
 church, the first Christian one in Scandinavia. Passed a fine 
 chateau of the Brahe family. 
 
 26i!7i. — To-day rowed down to Stockloster Chateau, built by 
 Marshal Wrangel, one of the most celebrated of the Swedish 
 generals in the Thirty Years' "War, but, by marriage, is now in 
 the Brahe family. It is one of the most interesting old build- 
 ings I have ever visited ; has six large rooms appropriated to 
 the armor of the two families, which contain many curious wea- 
 pons, and a large library in the other six rooms on that story. 
 
28 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 The large galleries are hung with portraits of old marshals and 
 battle scenes ; while the vacant spaces are filled with quotations 
 in French, German, Italian, and Latin. The parlors and cabi- 
 nets are filled with presents from sovereigns, or things captured 
 at Prague. One room was carpeted with Gobelin tapestry ; in 
 another, which we were shown into, a pretty young countess 
 was taking her music lesson ; discovering the mistake we bowed 
 and retired. The building contains a quadrangle, with octago- 
 nal towers. A hundred yards distant, the old church contains 
 the tombs of the marshal and his ancestors. On our way down 
 the lake we passed the prince royal, who was going to the same 
 chateau. 
 
 29th. — To-day we visited Gripsholm Palace, built a.d. 1300 ; 
 burnt in one of the revolutions ; and rebuilt by a marshal of the 
 Thirty Years' "War from his share of the plunder. It contains 
 many portraits of Swedish celebrities. I have not seen so many 
 portraits of fine-looking men, since I landed in Europe, as in 
 the palaces and chateaux of this country. Here several kings 
 were confined and poisoned. 
 
 On our return to Stockholm saw the eclipse, which here was 
 about three-quarters. Taking a drive in the park met some of 
 the princes. Saw the foundations of the Bastile, laid by Gus- 
 tavus the Third for the benefit of his nobles, who, not liking the 
 project, shot him at the opera-house before it was finished. 
 
 This evening tead with the family of our Charge-d' Affaires, 
 
 July SOth. — To-day visited the four Chambers of Deputies, 
 viz : nobles, priests, citizens, and peasants. They meet every 
 four years. They seemed very respectable, sensible, fine-looking 
 people, and conducted matters with much order and decorum. 
 Then off on the steamer for St. Petersburg. Had a most affect- 
 ing parting with " old stupid," who paid us for our good advice 
 and scoldings, with tears and " God bless yous." 
 
 We had about seventy passengers, stowed close : the fortunate 
 
A DROSKY. 29 
 
 ones in the cabin, the rest where they can tuck away — ^in car- 
 riages, on floors, or decks, rolled in cloaks, with starry canopy. 
 Many are very pleasant : an elderly, retired English Peninsular 
 officer, and a young Irishman, under his protection, my friend 
 and self, all paired off; the old 'uns and young 'uns together 
 (the imagined parentals and filials) : — a Finlander, an Italian ; 
 and a Eussian, sent out by the Emperor to take charge of 
 his nation's share in the Exhibition. 
 
 August 1st. — Abo — We reached to-day, after a delightful sail 
 of sixty hours, mostly surrounded by pretty little islands. It 
 formerly was part of Sweden, but taken from her by the Allied 
 Powers in 1815, and given to Eussia, while Norway was taken 
 from Denmark and given to Sweden. 
 
 Our luggage and passports examined, and our descriptions 
 taken (my friend has a middle name, and the official gravely 
 asked if the two first would not answer without the third), and 
 a refreshing swim in the Gulf of Finland, the Finn, who lives 
 here, took us a drive through the town in droskies, the funniest 
 contrivances you can imagine. They are only a foot and a half 
 from the ground, with low wheels, a wide mud-guard, protecting 
 seat and steps, and the most conspicuous thing about the vehicle. 
 Sinking into a low, scanty seat, no cover, and buttoned in by an 
 apron, the driver, in a long dressing-gown-looking coat, confined 
 at the waist by a red sash, with a very low, but immensely bell- 
 crowned hat, mounted the little box in front, and started his 
 miniature Bucephalus off at a gallop. Both arms were kept go- 
 ing, whipping, slapping, and he chirruping to this imaginary steed, 
 who hurried us over gutters, pavements, up and down hill, at 
 this same rapid pace. "We wished to see a Cossack regiment 
 stationed in the suburbs, but were disappointed — they were not 
 in uniform. They are a most miserable dirty-looking set. The 
 horses are small and badly shaped, though, I believe, of great 
 endurance. Eeturned just as a lumbering travelling carriage 
 started off, drawn by four little rats of horses, tied by ropes to 
 
30 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 every place tliey could bitch fast to. In, on, and around it was 
 stowed luggage enough for a caravan. I counted ten umbrellas, 
 six canes, and five parasols ! 
 
 August 2d. — Kevel — We reached this afternoon, after two 
 days of steaming. Yesterday afternoon and evening had a vio- 
 lent thunderstorm. The captain, for safety, anchored at dark. 
 All who could, got into the cabin ; the rest were obliged to avail 
 themselves of the carriages, awnings, luggage covers, etc. We 
 were in the back cabin, a room about twenty by twenty -four, of 
 which one-half was occupied by berths, which, with closed win- 
 dows and bed curtains, caused an oppressive heat, almost sti- 
 fling ; but we poor (sixteen) mortals, by dint of obstinacy and 
 perseverance, managed to survive the night. 
 
 By six this morning were at Sweaborg and Helsingfors. A 
 small town, with a very fine fortress, impregnably fortified, and 
 called the " Gibraltar of the North ;" the place, principally a 
 military post, and containing many public buildings, has an 
 imposing Lutheran church. Then across the Gulf of Finland to 
 this place, which we reached at four this afternoon. It is the 
 great naval depot of the Baltic. We did not go ashore ; there 
 was a pelting rain all the time we were here. Among the pas- 
 sengers who came aboard was a young Prince Bobinski, a very 
 gentlemanly, intelligent young fellow of about twenty, a mid- 
 shipman, and grandson of one of the Empress Catharine's 
 " nephews.^'' 
 
 Aug. 4 — St. Petersburg. — Two days more brought us here. 
 Saturday night, after leaving Eevel, it cleared off and has been 
 fine ever since. The Gulf has thronged with vessels — yesterday 
 we counted ninety-seven ; and lighthouses on most of the many 
 islands. Reached Cronstadt about four this afternoon. The 
 approach is very formidable, and it is doubtful if the combined 
 fleets of the world could take it. Here our passports and selves 
 were visaed ; then we shifted to a small steamer and went up 
 
ST. PETERSBURG. 31 
 
 the bay (whicli is about fifteen miles long by ten wide, and very 
 shoal) to this place. The sail is pleasant ; on the one side are 
 scattered palaces, villas, and villages ; among the former Peter- 
 hoff* the old imperial residence of Peter the Great, and several 
 smaller, prettier, and more modern ones of the present Emperor. 
 On the opposite side, the low marshy shores of Livonia ; passed 
 the Kamschatka, the first and fastest steiam frigate in the Eussian 
 Navy, built at Hoboken ; also two small American steamers that 
 ply between St. Petersburg and Peterhoff. "We soon caught 
 sight of the Admiralty, and St. Isaac's gilded dome, besides many 
 others, spangled and gilded, though less grand and beautiful. 
 The first approach of the Neva, is through wood rafts and 
 decayed docks ; then soon in the midst of the fine granite quays, 
 iron bridges, and beautiful buildings. A soldier guarded us till 
 the custom-house ofl&cers came. The man who was to examine 
 my luggage, shut it up without looking at it, at the same time 
 giving me a knowing look. I accordingly " tip'd" him, and 
 with our two English friends was soon at Mr. Benson's, a very 
 nice English boarding-house on the banks of the Neva. 
 
 Owing to the necessity of having our passports viseed we did 
 very little regular sightseeing yesterday or to-day. This after- 
 noon the Secretary (now Charge d' Affaires) called, and went with 
 us to look at several places. Saw Catharine's celebrated statue 
 of Peter the Great, very fine and spirited, though not as large as 
 we supposed. It is in a large square, on the four sides of which 
 are the palace, Isaac Church, Admiralty, quay, and bridge, a 
 beautiful coup (Poe.il of art, and gratifying to an American, for 
 most of the iron bridge is the work of an American manufactory 
 here. The great railway to Moscow is in charge of Americans ; 
 the Emperor has much confidence in them, and it's pleasant to 
 know that some of them are creditable, — the diplomats are rarely 
 so, except to England and France. Ellsworth, Chargd to Sweden, 
 defrauded the government, and left without paying his private 
 debts. At this court, John Eandolph behaved so rudely to the 
 court, that his recall or absence was requested. Bagly, our late 
 
32 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 Minister here, had three appointments to present his credentials, 
 and every time too drunk to keep them ; on the occasion of one 
 appointment he was lying drunk on the floor in one corner of 
 his room, his servant in another, and the female companions of 
 their debauchery in some other part of the room in the same feli- 
 citous condition ; and when he did get them made a long 
 harangue to the Emperor. He was so constantly engaged in 
 low debauchery that, I'm told, a letter was written to Gen, 
 Taylor requesting his recall, or that otherwise the Emperor 
 would be compelled to give him his passport. One of the Secre- 
 taries, who was left as Charge^ went armed to the ball given on 
 the marriage of the Crown Prince, and getting drunk, swore 
 he'd shoot any one who attempted to remove him. Hannigan, 
 in Prussia, w^as drunk most of the time — left in debt to every 
 one, and murdered his brother-in-law when he got home for 
 greater ^clat. The man who was sent over with the ratification 
 of the Oregon Treaty, stopped at Liverpool for a " spree." Our 
 Minister, after hearing of his arrival, waited three days and then 
 sent to Liverpool ; he was there found in a low groggery, beastly 
 intoxicated, with the treaty in his pocket. In Italy, President 
 Polk's brother disgraced the country and himself, if possible. In 
 addition to his other peccadilloes, he was in the habit of driving in 
 the " Cliiaja^^ with the notorious "women of the town;" and 
 the man sent to succeed him, I heard, was drunk all the time he 
 was there, besides lots of others I could mention. 
 
 The Emperor is most capricious in his actions and movements ; 
 as an instance of one, a few nights since, returning from a naval 
 review at Cronstadt, the whim seized him to order out the cadets. 
 So off he went, ten o'clock at night, to the camp, and had them 
 out for a sham fight ; the whole five or six thousand — poor little 
 devils — ^had to turn out and tumble out the best way they could, 
 and go at it. A gentleman told me he was returning from a late 
 dinner, and found himself in the midst of aides, guards, and Cos- 
 sacks, flying about at full speed, singly or in squadrons, and 
 cannon thundering in every direction. 
 
THE ROYAL FAMILY OF RUSSIA. 33 
 
 All the papers undergo tlie strictest censorship ; while obnox- 
 ious articles are cut out of the few foreign papers which are 
 admitted. Yesterday I was in wonderful good luck ; having 
 been invited by our Consul to dine with him at Peterhoif, which 
 is one of the imperial summer residences, and in the environs the 
 seats of many gentlemen. Arriving by water we took dros- 
 keys ; first drove through the grounds of Peter the Great's villa 
 (for the imperial residences here are nothing more), a plain low 
 brick building, but with beautiful grounds extending to the bank 
 of the bay. The house is near the bank with a stone wall along 
 the border; then passed the present imperial villa, (which is 
 strictly private when occupied by the family,) to the palace, so 
 called from being the largest ; on reaching this we found all the 
 imperial droskeys and calashes, with the ' Circassian attendants, 
 in waiting ; so, by advice of the Consul, dismissed the carriages 
 for a short time, and took a good position about fifty feet distant 
 in front of the steps, and waited ; they all came out in very few 
 minutes, Emperor, Empress, Prince Royal, his two younger 
 brothers (17 and 19), Grand Duchess Olga, their sister, and three 
 or four Russian and German Princes and Princesses. The 
 Emperor is very fine looking, as is the eldest son, who is the 
 exact counterpart of his father, except in the fire and energy. The 
 men all had on the long military cloaks, without which an officer 
 is never seen, even in the warmest weather. We had ten 
 minutes' view of them, and stood uncovered ; which they acknow- 
 ledged, the Emperor and Princes by the military salute, the 
 Empress and Princesses bowing. The Emperor helped the 
 Empress (who is very infirm and in bad health), and Grand 
 Duchess Olga (who is very good looking, and was very hand- 
 some, now about twenty-eight), into the calash ; took the foot- 
 man's place behind, and all drove off. While driving through the 
 park had another view of the Prince Royal and Princess. The 
 palace stands on a hill with a fine view of the bay and Cronstadt 
 in sight. On the terraced slope a succession of fountains, like 
 Yersailles, form a canal three or four hundred yards distant,. 
 
 3 
 
34 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 "which divides a belt of trees that skirt the shore, making a 
 pretty and wide vista of the bay. The other palaces are gems ; 
 the Duke of Leuchtenburg's (son of Eug(ine Beauharnais, and 
 brother of the Queen of Sweden) we also visited. It was a pre- 
 sent from his father-in-law, the Ernperor. Everything is exqui- 
 sitely beautiful. The grounds, instead of being in lawn, form 
 principally a garden admirably kept. Beyond, a lawn, with 
 pleasant walks intersected with small streams, is seen. The 
 country is nearly level ; all the grounds of the imperial family 
 contain statuary, summer-houses, vases, and seats, — all of marble. 
 In the Duke's there is a beautiful little Eussian cottage (a play- 
 house for the children), a surprise of the Emperor, who had the 
 materials brought and building finished in one night. He is said 
 to be very fond of his family, and never happier than Avhen sur- 
 rounded by them wath his grandchildren pulling him about. 
 
 Visited the villa of the Empress on an island in an artificial 
 lake, the model of one she lived in at Naples a few years ago ; 
 then the villa of the Grand Duchess Olga, in the same lake. 
 We there saw the Emperor and his sons reviewing the cadets — 
 dined with the Consul and went to see them attack a fort, but 
 the early departure of the steamboat prevented our seeing the 
 finale. We heard the Emperor "blowing" them up most 
 savagely. We passed some four thousand men marching to the 
 camp for the grand review, soon to take place ; the men were tall 
 and marching to lively songs. I'm told the Emperor takes good 
 -care of them, and punishes his officers severely if they fail to 
 do so. On the return from the Hungarian campaign he degraded 
 one of his generals to the ranks, for peculations on the men. 
 The knout is said to be abolished ; the severest punishment in the 
 army, and a substitute for capital punishment, is running the 
 gauntlet, resorted to in extreme cases, as in mutiny, desertion, 
 or murder. The culprit, with two long poles under his arms, 
 the ends supported by soldiers, marches between a double line 
 of comrades each supplied with a rod, who strike him as he 
 passes : if the wretch survives he is sent to Siberia. The taxes 
 
VISIT TO THE ISAAC CHURCH. 35 
 
 of tlie nobles are partially paid by furnisliing serfs, who, after 
 serving seven years, have their option of leaving as free men, or 
 of remaining with the chance of becoming officers; thus they 
 nominally have a very good time, and I doubt if the " devil is 
 quite as black as he is painted." 
 
 The Emperor is fine looking, tall, and stout, with a severe 
 expression, appearing better on foot than on horse, as he does not 
 ride very well. 
 
 I've just received a ticket to the Isaac Church and Hermi- 
 tage Palace. The former will be, internally, the most magnificent 
 in the world when completed; though not as large as some 
 others. It has been twelve years in building, and it may be 
 finished in three or four more. The interior will be entirely of 
 scagliola, plaster frescoed, rare valuable marbles, and malachite. 
 There are to be five fluted columns fifty feet high, by five in 
 diameter of malachite (veneered) ; I saw one that was finished, 
 also several parts of the church completed. The entire building 
 was occupied by scafiblding, and formed our sightseeing prome- 
 nade. As we made our spiral ascent to the dome, a distance of 
 two hundred and eighty feet, passing five granite columns, and 
 all kinds of most elaborate work in marble, porphyry, fresco, 
 gigantic gilded figures, vases and cornices of "rose antique," or 
 almost equally beautiful scagliola. Imagination in her dreamy 
 or lofty flights, can scarce conceive aught more beautifully 
 exquisite in the form of a church. Fortune again favoring us, we 
 were allowed to visit the exterior summit of the dome (thanks 
 to the courtesy of an official we met in the church). After 
 multifarious twistings and contortions of body and legs, until 
 nature herself must fain have admired the pliability of her 
 handiwork, though I feared I never should get into proper 
 shape again, or even know when I approximated to it, I had got 
 accustomed to so many shapes. In our passage through such 
 varied, narrow, low, dark, and winding ways, barely sufficing 
 for a child, much less for four such difierent figures, tall, short, 
 stout, and thin ; on reaching the summit, counted and found our 
 
36 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 stoui man missing, having got wedged on the way. I've rarely 
 seen a more beautiful view to make one oblivious to wrenchings 
 of body, or vexations of mind. All St. Petersburg lay at our 
 feet, with its stately palaces, glittering domes and minarets, 
 monuments, and multitudes of immense public buildings, with 
 the Neva, sweeping beneath, spanned by beautiful bridges, wash- 
 ing in its sluggish course the walls of the gloomy citadel, within 
 which are subterranean dungeons for state prisoners, for whom, 
 once in, "hope takes its flight." In the distance, numerous 
 small villages, the bay, Peterhoff, and Cronstadt are visible. The 
 roof is so vast, two regiments of horse might manoeuvre. The 
 form is the Greek cross with four porticoes or fa§ades, supported 
 in front and rear by double, and sides by single rows of columns 
 of polished red granite, sixty feet high by seven in diameter, 
 with perfect Corinthian caps of bronze. Each front has a beau- 
 tiful alto-relievo in bronze ; after which we visited the " Hermi- 
 tage," so called by Catharine, and used by her when retiring from 
 the cares of state, — now a show palace, and almost rivalling the 
 scenes of the Arabian Nights in its varied beauties — rarest 
 marbles and malachite made common by their profusion — suites 
 of rooms, walled, panelled, or j^illared with them, mosaic and 
 tesselated floors of inconceivably fine work — immense tables 
 and vases of malachite, "rose antique," with rare marbles from 
 Siberia : one vase a perfect swimming bath, ten by twenty feet 
 — the picture gallery one of the most superb in Europe, and 
 excelling all others in Claudes — the library the most extensive in 
 northern Europe — among its treasures Yoltaire's collection. 
 
 In my flight from Wall Street, I thought I had left law and 
 code behind ; but to-day, was agreeably surprised to meet my 
 most esteemed friend and townsman, our brilliant Codifier, who, 
 with his family, had just been visiting the "midnight sun," and 
 like myself are winging their way to the lands of the "crescent 
 and the cross." 
 
 The winter is the season of Russian gaiety. With weather 
 so cold, the mercury is seriously meditating a retirement through 
 
Ski'tclied by the Author. See page 49. 
 
 ESCAPE OF PETER THE GREAT AND BROTHER FROM THE 3TRELITZE3 INTO 
 
 TROITZKA MONASTERY. 
 
A FETE IN A BURIAL-GROUND. 37 
 
 the bottom of the bulb, and the few people who do promenade 
 the streets, typical of their own polar bears. Then society, with 
 an inverse ratio to the temperature without, effervesces with 
 excitement into balls, operas, and the hundred varied gaieties 
 of a brilliant capital. But to us, of milder latitudes, the summer 
 is the season of our enjoyments, preferring the external sights to 
 the social ones. 
 
 August loih. — To-day our Charge, friend, and self drove to 
 the grand burial-ground, the specialite there being a grand jol- 
 lification over the bones of relatives ; an annual ftte (proba- 
 bly originating from some grateful spendthrift paying a yearly 
 homage to the departed remains of kindi'ed who had bestowed 
 upon him his hoarded wealth, as all fashions take their rise in 
 some leader of " ifon," who is anxious to exhibit or conceal some 
 beauty, grace, deformity, or defect), when every man, woman, 
 and child comes and spends the day, feasting, rioting, and becom- 
 ing oblivious, often passing the night here. They spread a table- 
 cloth on the tablet, if one there be ; if not, then on a table over 
 the grave, and unloading their hampers of provisions " make a 
 day of it." The common people get up tea-houses to make tea, 
 that being their favorite drink, as coffee is in Paris, beer in 
 England, and brandy-and-water in America, Here are seen 
 rich and poor, high and low, officials civil and military, beggars 
 by the hundreds and thousands. In the midst of this feasting, I 
 saw a family come in, the father with a cofl&n under one arm 
 and spade in hand, while behind followed the wife and children 
 with monument, hamper of provisions, and liquor. 
 
 In the afternoon, drove through the suburbs to- see the islands 
 and graceful villas of the nobility. 
 
 IQth^ Sunday. — Attended church at the factory, which is Epis- 
 copal. The other is called the American church, for no reason 
 that I can learn, other than that it has a Presbyterian minister, 
 and he is English. Have just visited the Foundhng Asylum, 
 
38 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 said to be the best in the world after that at Moscow. Saw 
 three hundred babies squalhng, kicking, and breakfasting ; 
 others juveniles, up to sixteen and seventeen. There are about 
 four thousand children connected with the institution. Most of 
 them are in the country. They educate the girls for the stage, 
 or to become teachers or governesses, according to their peculiar 
 talents. The boys for teachers, army, or civil service. I only 
 saw the girls. We went through about half the building, which 
 is on an immense scale. Everything is in the most perfect 
 order, and excessively neat. The Imperial family often visit it. 
 We heard about three hundred sing the blessing for dinner. 
 
 11th, Tuesday. — Visited the fortress and church ; (the latter is 
 the imperial mausoleum,) and also Peter the Great's house. To- 
 day the Winter Palace, the largest building in the world. One 
 apartment called the golden room, its furniture and ornaments 
 gilded or malachite, of which were table tops, two mantels, and 
 candelabra. The jewel room is perfectly dazzling with the 
 crown, regalia, etc. Here is the largest diamond in the civilized 
 world, except the one lately brought to England. There were 
 hundreds of necklaces, bracelets, and head ornaments, all of 
 most brilliant diamonds, rubies, emeralds, and sapphires ; fans, 
 the handles covered with them ; snuff-boxes brilliant with gold 
 and jewels ; and beautiful canes with heads of precious stones. 
 
 15^/i. — I have just returned from Tzarsko-Celo, Catharine's 
 famous country palace — seven hundred feet in front, and 
 unique in its arrangements. The walls of one room covered 
 with amber, others with draperies of blue and gold, everything 
 lavishly splendid. The grounds the handsomest I have seen m 
 Europe, with the exception of fountains, which form a j)romi- 
 nent part in most palace parks. From- the palace to Paulolfsk 
 Gardens, and saw fine fireworks and music. This being a great 
 festival day (these festival days come about five times a week, 
 to the great detriment of business, to take a practical view) of 
 course multitudes of people, and some pretty faces, were out. 
 
A REVIEW. 39 
 
 On Monday, with a New York acquaintance, who in his loco- 
 motive style has overtaken us, we shall start for Moscow. 
 
 Although in the early part of August, the weather is very- 
 cold, and so changeable nobody moves without an overcoat: 
 like the English habit of carrying an umbrella, which they 
 almost take to bed with them, for fear of its raining before 
 morning. 
 
 To-day have been inspecting the beautiful shops, and collect- 
 ing souvenirs, for sight or use, malachite, and such like rarities. 
 
 Tired and provoked, I sit down to tell my day's work. Last 
 evening our Consul kindly sent us word he had learned, from 
 good authority, the grand review was to come off to-day at 
 Krassnacelo, and invited us to drive over to Peterhoff, and dine 
 with him afterwards. As the review was to commence at seven, 
 and we had a drive of twenty miles before us, we were up at 
 half -past two, dressed, arranged a hamper of lunch, my New 
 Orleans and New York friend, " stupid," and self stowed away in 
 the carriage, and we started with thi'ee horses, on a full gallop. 
 Eeached the place, breakfasted as circumstances (of bad and 
 scanty prog) at the tavern allowed, and then on the ground by 
 eight, having received here the gratifying information that there 
 was not to be a review ; only a manoeuvre of the troops, about 
 twelve or fifteen miles distant, and that if we took a certain po- 
 sition would be able to see them return. So we did as advised ; 
 waited and waited, until our patience was well-nigh exhausted, 
 hearing the firing of musketry and guns, but not able to go 
 there, as no inducement would make our driver move his horses ; 
 it was " Russian fashion to give the horses four hours to feed, 
 and they had had only two" — then his carriage might be bro- 
 ken! At last we saw the troops approach and pass, eighteen 
 thousand horse, and forty thousand infantry ; Cossacks, Circas- 
 sians, Russians, Finns, and I don't know what else, composed 
 this omnium gatherum : — for one requires a private memorandum 
 book to occasionally refresh the memory with the various na- 
 tions and tribes this annexing government has taken under its 
 
40 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 protecting wing. Just then, two officers approached leading 
 their horses ; so we did the American civility, and asked them 
 to stop and take a " drink," ascertained from them there had been 
 manosuvres which were over for the day. So we harnessed up, 
 and promised our driver an extra " vodka" (drink) if he got us 
 to Peterhoff (fifteen miles distant) in good season. He whipped 
 up and went off singing, much to our amazement. Just then 
 seeing a regiment of "Life Guards" about to cross into the road 
 ahead of us, whipped up, and yelling and flogging, as if mad, 
 went cutting and slashing through the regiment for about two 
 miles, while we were terribly afraid of getting into trouble. 
 But nothing would stop him, and we found that he had been 
 libating rather too freely, while his horses had been eating four 
 hours, after Eussian fashion. At last we reached Peterhoif, and 
 right glad too ; for, after the first excitement wore off, our driver 
 was half the time asleep. When we did reach there, were so 
 covered with dust we went on board the steamer and returned 
 to St. Petersburg. 
 
 17^/i, Sunday. — Attended service in the Greek church this 
 morning, wishing to hear their fine music, especially the chants. 
 More miserable mockery and idolatry I have never witnessed, 
 even among the lowest order of Roman Catholics. Every one 
 stands, or stands and kneels, for it is about half and half. As 
 they are not allowed to worship images, the church is hung 
 in every part with small pictures of the Virgin and Saviour, or 
 saints; every portion but the face covered with tinsel, before 
 which are numerous sockets, usually kept filled with lighted 
 candles, furnished by the devotees who throng the church hourly ; 
 on entering buy a candle, light it, and place it in "the first empty 
 socket, or else hand it to the priest, who places it in a receptacle, 
 which, when full, is sent back to the door for the benefit of 
 other purchasers. Every one in passing a picture, crosses him- 
 self or herself, and is supposed to "patter" a prayer, be they 
 high, low, rich, or poor, from the imperial princes to the humble 
 
SERVICE IN THE GREEK CHURCH. 41 
 
 drosky driver, who will stop, cross himself a dozen times, mutter 
 Ms prayer, then turn and cheat you. The service was performed 
 by a disgusting looking priest (with long hair reaching to his 
 shoulders — their custom, each hair appearing to stand alone on 
 its own account) ; assisted by several venerables, who followed 
 their prepossessing leader in mumblings and crossings. Then 
 the choir relieved us from this tedious, senseless mummery, by 
 some fine music; after which the priest drawled out a sen- 
 tence, looked at the figure, and with his assistants crossed himself. 
 Then succeeded, alternately, music, mumblings, and genuflexions, 
 for two hours; the people, mostly men, bowing, crossing, and 
 pattering prayers, with every five minutes a genuflexion of the 
 neck (to Hibernicise), as well as of the " pedestals " in order to 
 touch their forehead to the pavement. A fine-looking old gen- 
 tleman, who stood near me, seeing I was a stranger, entering into 
 conversation, asked where I was from, where bound to, etc., then 
 explained several of the ceremonies, one in particular, that struck 
 me very oddly, i. e. of children only about six months old, taking 
 the Sacrament, which I saw. Then he continued his crossings, 
 prayers, and kneelings. One old fellow could not perform quite 
 so easily this " religion culbutant " (as Chateaubriand terms it, in 
 speaking of the Turks and Egyptians), "whipped the devil round 
 the stump " by touching his finger first to the floor and then his 
 forehead. After the service was finished, great numbers went 
 up and kissed the feet of the figure in the picture. They never 
 have preaching in the Grreek church. 
 
 Moscow, August Tltli. — Before starting for Moscow, we had 
 collected our various souvenirs ; one of mine, a wood-carrier on a 
 malachite vase. They are the most common objects here. The 
 costume, as you will perceive, is very simple, merely shirt and 
 trowsers, shirt outside — their unsophisticated way of wearing it, 
 and the bottoms of the trowsers loosely tucked in a pair of high 
 boots, which every man has. When anything is worn over the 
 shirt, it is for a drosky driver — a long blue cloth gown, plaited 
 
42 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 at the waist, and confined by a belt ; but ordinarily only a sheep- 
 skin overcoat, fur inside, dirty and greasy as agreeable. At half- 
 past four, my Southern, New York friend, and I, with our "traps" 
 and baskets of eatables, started in three droskys for the Moscow 
 Diligence, where we were stowed two and two, my travelling 
 friend from the South and self in the coup6, with our carpet-bags, 
 coats, cloaks, books, and hamper of eatables and drinkables, all 
 so tightly packed, that we never should have got out before 
 reaching Moscow, had there not luckily been a door on either 
 side. Our Irish friends came down, to be able more clearly to 
 anticipate their approaching misery, and bid us good by, and 
 give their cards, if we should not meet in Moscow, to visit their 
 houses and clubs in Ireland and London on our return. With 
 lingering look "at what we ne'er might see again," we bid adieu 
 to St. Petersburg. 
 
 Our vehicle, a long lumbering machine with four apartments, 
 was hurried along by four scraggy-looking ponies, and a driver 
 in the usual dirty sheep-skin coat. We travelled night and day, 
 only stopping occasionally to get a cup of tea (Tchai), and twice, 
 at famous places, for chicken cutlets. The tea (which is better 
 in Eussia than any other place out of China) was always good, 
 though the appearance of the taverns and domestics rather pre- 
 judicial to any appetite, but one augmented by twelve to twenty 
 hours of Diligence travel. Tea, in its voyage from China, is 
 injured by what is termed the sweating process, which it under- 
 goes in the confined holds of the ships, and avoids in its over- 
 land caravan journeys from China, which, though rendering 
 it much dearer, at the same time gives you a better article. 
 Around every station were collected a dozen or more, dirty, 
 quarrelsome ruffians, in these same sheep-skin overcoats. At 
 night, found them lying on the ground, stoops of houses, or 
 in the corners of the yards on straw, like pigs. The appearance 
 of the houses on the way to Moscow, impressed me favorably. 
 Many of them with very fanciful cornices, window frames, and 
 galleries. Most of them are built of logs, with the gable ends to 
 
APPROACH TO MOSCOW. 43 
 
 the road; none were painted. The fields indicated abundant 
 harvests. We passed thousands of acres of grain and flax ; like 
 those of France, — rarely divided by fences. Saw immense num- 
 bers of fine cattle, either grazing or being driven to market 
 (mostly white and dun, a few red): — tedious operation, occu- 
 pying six months, — a business which the railroad, when com- 
 pleted, will engross, hurrying them to market in a few hours. 
 The sheep, of which we saw many, are small, usually black or 
 mixed. The farming implements are of the roughest description. 
 Passed immense numbers of waggons carrying loads to St. 
 Petersburg ; some trains consisting of twenty, one of thirty -three. 
 The railroad is nearly completed ; the Emperor will use it in Ms 
 trip to Moscow in a few days, for the first time. The country, 
 for the most part, very flat, and monotonous scenery. The only 
 objects besides the log-houses — the green domes of the churches. 
 The priests must have exercised a very powerful influence to 
 have erected so many, and mostly are very large ; however, the 
 religion is a national one, and the people are fanatic. 
 
 Emerging from a small wood on the third afternoon, Moscow 
 broke upon us, with its hundreds, almost thousands, of domes 
 and minarets, delighting us nearly as much as it did Napoleon 
 when he first beheld them from the Sparrow Hills, on our right. 
 Landing and receiving our passports, we were hurried and tum- 
 bled, with our luggage, into droskys, and galloping off to Mr. 
 Howard's (the Enghsh boarding-house) in the shortest possible 
 time, where we are quartered, and the only lodgers. 
 
 This evening, while dining, our valet-de-place came in ; a 
 young Anglo-Muscovite — ^a veritable John Smith, to our amaze- 
 ment, when his name was announced. Having arranged mat- 
 ters for to-morrow, we retire with pleasant anticipations of Mos- 
 cow, so "bon nuit" — the "bon repas" I shall doubtless take 
 long before you can wish it. 
 
 August 22>d. — Yesterday paid the famed Kremlin a visit. It is 
 the citadel of Moscow and probably a mile in circuit, surrounded 
 
44 FROM WALL STREET TO CASmiERE. 
 
 by high walls, outside of which stands the old city of Moscow, 
 the walls of which are gone and only gates left ; outside of this 
 again are the suburbs or the greater part of the present city. In 
 the Kremlin are the old and new palaces, treasury, armory or 
 powder magazine, and the three oldest churches. None of these 
 buildings were burned in 1812 ; the oldest contains the bodies 
 of most of the Idngs and emperors to the time of Peter the 
 Great. Some few of the church ornaments are five hundred 
 years old ; the grand one is where the Emperor was crowned, his 
 chair was in the treasury — that of his predecessors looked like 
 a moderate-sized bed with curtains, as did also that of the patri- 
 archs. This church holds, besides the remains of many of its 
 early sovereigns, wonderful relics, — among them a garment of our 
 Saviour (what article of dress I did not learn), but suffice to 
 say they are the "Simon Pures," and those old hypocrites at 
 Treves have been humbugging the world for two or three centu- 
 ries with their imaginary veritables. Also a veritable nail 
 from the cross, and we could have seen some of the fiesh had I 
 desired it. One old patriarch was packed away in his coffin 
 with a hand exposed, which the devotees were kissing in most 
 ecstatic raptures. The pictures were hung round with dia- 
 monds, gifts of royalty and nobility. The patriarch allowed us 
 to visit the robe-room ; the dresses were magnificently embroid- 
 ered in gold and silver thread, many almost covered with pearls 
 fi'om the size of the head of a large pin, to a large pea, and some 
 as large as a wren's egg, besides diamonds, rubies, and emeralds ; 
 on their crosses were beautiful stones. There were also two large 
 bronze kettles to boil the sacred oil for baptism, and an immense 
 vase to deposit it in when prepared — also several hundred silver 
 dishes, goblets, vases, and pictures, part of the patriarch's sur- 
 vice ; then various old bibles and testaments with divers merits, 
 ages, illuminations, and languages. We then indulged the femi- 
 nine passion, and did some shopping in the Persian bazaar. 
 
 To-day drove out with a Eussian friend to see the manoeuvres. 
 There were eight or ten of the crack regiments of guards, hus- 
 
Sketched by the Author. 
 
 TARANTAS TRAVl'XLING, EUi^SIA. 
 
 See page 51. 
 
A KAMBLE THKOUGH MOSCOW. 45 
 
 sars, and lancers, besides a regiment or two of artillery and ten 
 or twelve of infantry. The sight was beautiful, and the appa- 
 rently eccentric evolutions of the artillery kept our driver in 
 constant motion. Once getting on the other side of a ditch, we 
 supposed we should then be quite safe, and scarcely the thought 
 passed through our minds, when, as if we were the imaginary 
 enemy, down thundered the artillery horses and carriages, all 
 taking the ditches " flying," and we scampering off at telegraphic 
 speed. Eeturning to the city we drove through the Peterskoi 
 Park ; old Peter's palace is a curiously constructed affair, of red 
 brick, and Byzantine order. "We could not get in, as everything 
 was preparing for the approaching visit of the Emperor next 
 week ; then to the Kremlin to again see the outside of the new 
 palace, which, being of stucco, and with its fresh coat of yellow 
 wash, looks very fine — all of the white and yellow washers are 
 performing their annual duty. Instead of painting their houses 
 occasionally, as we do, every house takes its periodical coat of 
 white, grey, brown, or yellow wash. The view of the city is 
 very fine from this side. I counted seventy-seven churches^ 
 domes, and spires, besides multitudes of monasteries and con- 
 vents ; after which walked through the gardens and along the 
 banks of the Mosqua river. Saw some of the immense flat- 
 boats, from two to three hundred feet in length, by about sixty 
 in width, in which they bring wood from a thousand miles in the 
 interior — then through the old town stores, a succession of small 
 shops under one roof, and very like market-stalls, with two or 
 more children to each, standing outside and inviting indiscrimi- 
 nately to buy ; the money-changers with piles of loose silver 
 lying on their open counters — the people have a sort of rogue's 
 honor towards each other. Passing these untouched they 
 would pick my pockets without the least hesitation. In these 
 miniature shops you often see the richest and most valuable 
 jewelry. Further on, the wholesale department of rich goods of 
 which the only indications are barred windows, and a dull dirty 
 look, like a feed store on a Monday morning. Between the 
 
46 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 outer and inner barrier there is a space of a few feet in width, 
 along which a rope is stretched ; on it are rings running short 
 distances, and to these rings dogs with short ropes are attached, 
 with rope enough for a patrol but not near enough to fight. 
 
 Saw the Grand Patriarch of the Greek church pass with coach 
 and four this morning ; this afternoon we all went to the Semi- 
 noff Monastery, a drive of four miles ; it is a fortress-like build- 
 ing within high walls, where are also other buildings besides the 
 chapel or church. My travelling friend had a letter of introduc- 
 tion to Mclchisedec the patriarch. On reaching this and inquir- 
 ing for him found he had been promoted to a higher post, so, 
 resolute not to be disappointed, my friend sent in his card 
 with the guide to the present one, who immediately sent out 
 word he would be very glad to see all of us, — so we all went in 
 "to see the elephant." 
 
 He was a fine-looking old gentleman, with most benevolent 
 expression, with the long beard, moustache, and hair which they 
 all wear. We made him a visit of nearly an hour, when he 
 appeared very reluctant to have us leave, being exceedingly 
 anxious to hear about the United States; but as it was near 
 "vespers" we did not like to tresjoass on his time, as we 
 were intending to hear the vesper service, when he very kindly 
 sent word to the priests to sing from their notes, and we thought 
 he had an extra grand flourish of service for us. He, as well as 
 the other priests who performed the more important parts, were 
 very richly dressed in long robes beautifully embroidered and in 
 most cases the entire robe covered with gold and silver; the 
 others in plain black gowns, with the high Greek church crape 
 hat (like an ordinary hat without the rim and immensely bell- 
 crowned) with a very large cape at the back. We staid until 
 nine (two hours, but the service lasts imtil twelve) witnessing 
 the principal parts of the service, particularly " the blessing of 
 bread," when the patriarch had a superb cross of diamonds, eme- 
 ralds, and rubies, probably worth many thousand dollars. The 
 singing was the finest I've ever heard in a church. Some six- 
 
A RUSSIAN HOWARD. 47 
 
 teen or eighteen monks singing by turns and in concert. The 
 interior of the chapel is very like the others. An old fellow near 
 me, with a diabolical cut-throat face, who bowed, knelt, and 
 crossed himself in most exemplary style, in the height of his 
 enthusiasm chimed in with a very fine bass. 
 
 August 25, — ^Yesterday (Sunday) morning went to the Sparrow 
 Hills to 'witness the departure of the Exiles to Siberia — an event 
 that takes place every Sunday morning, they being collected 
 here from far distances (even St. Petersburg) for that purpose, 
 and sent oft' on foot in chains under military escort. About 
 eighty started yesterday ; their clothes and shoes are examined 
 before they set out to prevent their carrying any concealed 
 money, after which ten copeks or about eight cents are given to 
 each. The majority had a chain and band on each leg — the 
 chain supported by a belt around the waist. Others were hand- 
 cuffed and attached to a long chain. Dr. Haas, a German resi- 
 dent, who has taken great interest in these poor wretches and 
 the prisons for years, and also by his benevolence much impo- 
 verished himself, was present. He went among them talking to 
 each, and giving the conducter money for them. He is a kind, 
 benevolent looking old gentleman of about seventy, quite tall 
 and stout, dressed in small-clothes. We introduced ourselves. 
 He had a long conversation with us, on parting shook hands and 
 kissed ; he is the Howard of Russia. The spectacle of the pri- 
 soners was most melancholy, though they had generally a cut- 
 throat aspect. Returning stopped on the brow of Sparrow Hill, 
 where Napoleon first viewed Moscow, and a fine sight it is, 
 though proving so bitter a view to the French after their march 
 of two thousand miles. 
 
 Returning by the Kremlin, which is to Moscow what the 
 Acropolis was to Athens and the Capitol to Rome, surrounded by 
 lofty walls with embattled towers and turrets; of its various 
 gates the most celebrated one is the " Spass Vorota" (or Gate of 
 the Redeemer); — the "porta triumphalis" of Moscow, Through 
 
48 FROIil WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 its portals often Kussia's conquering Emperors and soldiers 
 returned in triumpli, and all uncover wlio pass it. Continuing 
 on, we stopped for a view from tlie majestic tower of Ivan Veliki ; 
 in our ascent passed a number of enormous bells, one of wbicli 
 was tolling — tbis was about twelve feet in diameter, tbe man 
 standing inside to swing tbe clapper, wbile a bussar, witb plenty 
 of room, stood on tbe opposite side. On tbe outside of tbe tower, 
 near tbe top, a long bearded fellow was wbitewasbing witb botb 
 bands, wbile bis only bold on tbe ladder, wbicb was swinging 
 witb tbe wind, was by one leg. Our companion, a nepbew of 
 tbe Eussian Ambassador at "Wasbington, dined witb us; and 
 knowing our American tastes be brougbt two fine water-melons, 
 (wbicb tasted as fresb as if just picked), tbougb tbey came from 
 Astrakan, more tban a tbousand miles. After dinner we went 
 to a famous restaurant to take " yellow tea," wbicb costs from 
 twelve to twenty dollars a pound. 
 
 To-day we visited tbe new palace, tbrougb tbe courtesy of Mr. 
 B., wbo bad obtained an order from tbe governor. I've never 
 seen anytbing equal to it. Imagination could bardly surpass its 
 magnificence ; it is truly an Imperial Palace. Tbe grand stairs 
 are in tbe same style, but not as fine as tbose at tbe Hermitage. 
 Tbe vestibule is circular, witb walls and ceilings beautifully 
 ornamented witb gilding and fresco. It opens into tbe Hall of 
 St. George, at tbe end of wbicb we saw a large medallion in 
 plaster, representing tbe killing of tbe dragon. At tbat end of 
 tbe room are windows opening on tbe balcony, witb pink cur- 
 tains, wbicb gave a beautiful tint to tbe room. Tbe cornices are 
 decorated witb representations of tbe order of St. George. On 
 tbe marble panels are tbe names of tbe various regiments of tbe 
 army : wbo raised tbem and tbe names of tbe princes and gene- 
 rals wbo bave received this highest order in Russia. Superb 
 vistas open on tbe eye, and tbe bardly less beautiful balls of St. 
 Yladimer, St. Andrew, and St. Catbarine, witb tbe magnificent 
 tbrone rooms of Alexander and Nicbolas. Tbe canopy and cur- 
 tains of tbe tbrone are lined witb ermine. In passing tbrougb 
 
PREPARATION FOR A THOUSAND MILES' JAUNT. 49 
 
 the family rooms "we paused to gaze on the splendor of the 
 boudoir prepared for the Duke and Duchess of Saxe-Weimar, 
 the tables, fire-screens, andirons, shovel-stand, cover, and back to 
 the fireplace ; looking-glass frames, which were very heavy and 
 elaborate; two chandeliers (very large), besides nine tables, 
 all of sohd silver ; and the rest were covered with heavy plate, 
 not less than the eighth of an inch thick. And then we went on 
 through long ranges exquisitely beautiful. 
 
 It being a grand fete day we started for Troitzka, a famous 
 monastery forty miles distant, and well known in the history of 
 Eussia for the important part it has borne at various times. 
 One, the affording refage to Peter the Great when his life was 
 threatened by the Strelitzes. It has had various important 
 grants of privileges and property from Peter the Great, Catha- 
 rine, and others; besides — the left-handed one — self-appropri- 
 ation again by some of these devout but aggrandizing imperi- 
 ahties. 
 
 "We have returned from Troitzka and bought our tarantas for 
 the Odessa trip — apleasantlittlejauntof a thousand miles, which 
 we are told we can accomplish with good luck, and no break- 
 downs, in nine days, including a day and a half stoppage on the 
 road. These tarantases are odd vehicles to look at, with a max- 
 imum of axletrees and poles, and a minimum of wheels (in 
 circumference) and carriage body ; however, with our trunks and 
 boxes on behind, and sacks, cloaks, cushions, coats to comfort 
 the outer man, and a good hamper of " creature comforts" for the 
 inner one, a post-office courier (the best we could do), who, 
 though not speaking a word of English or any of our varied 
 "lingos," struts about in his long green official cloak with 
 becoming dignity, and handles his pistol — while we shall be left 
 to our own minimum to supply our wants. The last of our 
 complement is the wild looking Yampschik (postillion). With 
 all our arrangements for Odessa, we started off with Mr. B. to 
 see the grand review for Prince Paskovitch the Yice-King of 
 Poland, and since his Hungarian campaign the second man. i:i. 
 
 4 
 
50 FROM "WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 the Empire. On his return, a gift from the Emperor was presented 
 to him by one of the Grand Dukes on bended knee. There 
 were more than one hundred thousand troops on review. The 
 scene was brilliant. It seemed surprising that so many men could, 
 even by perfect discipline, be brought in so compact a column. 
 
 In this country every man, to be anybody, must be in the 
 civil or military service. Everything and every body always 
 under the strictest surveillance of the police. Every suspected 
 letter passing through the post-office is opened and not always 
 sealed; if unimportant is put back again. Those going to 
 or from the embassies are invariably opened, so that now the 
 English embassy wishing to communicate information as to their 
 acts, or give them what John Eandolph called an unintentional 
 hit, they post a duplicate despatch, and send the other by their 
 courier, when the duplicate is sure to be read by Count Nessel- 
 rode before the courier reaches Cronstadt. The roads are con- 
 structed purely for military purposes, and travelling is restricted 
 as much as possible A gentleman can't go to his country seat, 
 one hundred miles from the city, without a pass for a certain 
 length of time, and mentioning all his family ; and this can be 
 renewed only on personal application, except in sickness, and 
 then the applicant must appear with the physician's certificate, 
 for that alone will save him from punishment. The Emperor is 
 trying to cripple the power of the nobles and raise himself with 
 the soldiers and common people by the appearance of being able 
 to accomplish all he says he will do or have done, when and in 
 the way he chooses ; whether it be the erection of his winter 
 palace in a year, which was done at the sacrifice of hundreds of 
 lives ; or the construction of the iron bridge over the river, which 
 3ias been repairing ever since ; or building a railway to 
 Moscow, in a direct line through swamps and morasses, which 
 have sunk as fast as filled in ; or coming to Moscow in thirty 
 hours by post ; and now, in a day or two, he is to try on this 
 untried new railroad to accomplish it in the trial trip in seven 
 hours — four hundred and sixty miles. 
 
INTOIATIONS OF ROBBERS. 51 
 
 The workpeople are clever at imitation, but they have no 
 inventive genius — except in setting jewelry. 
 
 To-day dined with B. We had sterlet, the famous luxury 
 brought from the Volga. Even in winter they are brought on 
 alive, and shown swimming to the guests as they pass through 
 the hall at a dinner party ; and when they are ready for the fish 
 (the third course in Eussia) they are cooked ; at that season they 
 cost from ten to fifteen dollars a. piece, which makes a dinner an 
 expensive affair, as every guest has a fisli — except of the large 
 ones, which are two and three hundred dollars apiece. 
 
 As an instance of the strictness of the censorship, the English 
 clergyman at this place told me he could not write his sermons, 
 until he had shown the heads of bis subject to the censor and 
 obtained his permission to use them. 
 
 Odessa, Se^ptemher 10th. — After lockings and unlockings, 
 directions and orders, we were finally tucked away in our taran- 
 tas, and off" in grand grotesque style, witb our box of trunks 
 chained, strapped, and tied, standing out in bold relief behind, 
 and our post-office courier in all the dignity of his office, redou- 
 bled by his present charge, sitting in equally bold relief in front, 
 with his official panoply of coat buttons and pistol, cartridge 
 box, padaroshnas (post-office orders for horses) and march route, 
 " backed up " by a sheep-skin-coated driver. But " pride must 
 have a fall," and so we learned, for two or three stations or 
 our way found our wheels giving out. At a station where ve 
 stopped just before dark, the officer, on looking at our lugg.'ge, 
 said he thought it well fastened (of late there had been ome 
 robberies on the road). Peter, our courier, loaded his pist-'l and 
 showed it to me, while I strengthened his courage by {lowing 
 him my revolver, explaining, that it fired six shotr without 
 reloading. Eecovering from his surprise, we examines arranged 
 matters and were off again. About the middle of the ^ig^t, while 
 we were giving our undivided attention to Somnus undisturbed 
 by visions of robbers, were suddenly startled by a I'emendous jar, 
 
52 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 accompanied by a vague recollection of robber stories and present 
 feeling of upset. AVc found a wheel off; wliile tbe rest were 
 looking for the wheel and linchpin, and I holding the horses, "a 
 tall horseman was seen emerging from the woods," quite in 
 G. P. R. James' style. But he was a mounted Cossack patrol. 
 
 Next morning, about eight, reached Tula, passing through a 
 beautiful country, we should have enjoyed but for the mishaps. 
 We hunted up an Englishman here, to whom we had a letter, 
 and he put us in the way of making " a swap " for another car- 
 riage, lie took us to the Government Musket Manufactory, 
 which he has charge of. They were making seventy-five thou- 
 sand muskets a year, and enlarging to make a hundred thousand. 
 Yet, strange enough, they make the stocks here, and in every 
 other armory in Europe, by hand, while Yankees, wide-awake 
 for a time-saving machine, do them by machinery. After the 
 day with him, we started at dusk with letters to his relatives and 
 to dignitaries at ^Micholaiofif. At the first station, looking at our 
 wheels, saw we had been cheated, so back we went fifteen miles. 
 
 At Tula, my friend found a party at our English acquaintance's, 
 he sent one of his family with him to the Lieut. -Governor's, who 
 was at the Governor's ; there the Governor had a long conversation 
 with him, learning he was an American, and finished by sending 
 him with his compliments to the Chief of Police, to say " he 
 ^^sent them," — so they went to him and told the story. He twisted 
 lis moustache, summoned his adjutant and aides (every one here 
 i^ilitary) ; one of them knew Andrio Corbato, the horrid 
 vilain ! Ordered him arrested, with a sentinel at his door, till 
 the carriage was arranged to the gentlemen's satisfaction — a 
 prompt administration of justice, mj learned friend forgot to put 
 in the \code." So back they came to the carriage, routing me, 
 courier, Vid "traps" out, when poor Andrio Corbato, officer, 
 sentinel, jm carriage, hurried off; the former feeling very much, 
 as if his pa\port for Siberia was almost made- out. The English- 
 man wishedXus to finish the evening at his house, but our 
 company "ri^' was not comeatable, so we declined; the next 
 
A FRENCH RESTAURATEUR. 53 
 
 morning at daylight, I heard a noise in front of the house, there 
 stood the carriage (with new wheels), Andrio Corbato, and the 
 sentinel, with fixed bayonet, keeping guard, and the prisoner, 
 probably, vowing most sincerely never to sell another carriage 
 on a saint's day. 
 
 Breakfast over, the Englishman called, and after due inspec- 
 tion of the reparations, and Andrio being threatened with the 
 vengeance of the police if they gave out again, we made another 
 start. Everything held together well enough, till just before wc 
 reached Orel (a post of about one hundred and forty miles), our 
 driver's box gave way. 
 
 Here we found a French restaurateur who had come on in the 
 Diligence from St. Petersburg with us; he had just returned 
 from the Great Exhibition, with all the grievances a French- 
 man must suffer in "perfidious Albion;" he had been all over 
 England without getting a beefsteak well cooked. And as we 
 complimented France and its cuisine^ he gave us a delicious 
 dejeuner a la fourcheite. The town has some 80,000. Last winter 
 fifteen hundred froze to death. 
 
 On to Kourisk, of which a cup of Tchai (tea) and the bad pave- 
 ments will be our sole souvenirs. Then Karkofif, along a sandy 
 dusty road, galloping on in grand style with five horses. 
 
 The rich black loam, after heavy rains, had been baked so 
 hard by the sun as to resemble asphaltum. 
 
 Karkoff is a large town with many public buildings, but like 
 every city in Russia, built of brick or rough stone stuccoed. On 
 to Pultowa, nearly suffocated by the clouds of fine black dust, 
 while in the spring and autumn almost impassable from 
 mud. 
 
 Pultowa, celebrated for the defeat of Charles the Twelfth, 
 stands on a high, almost isolated hill, with no good buildings 
 but the public ones. The monument, which is in the centre of 
 the town, does not amount to much. The Post-house bad, but 
 any place with ablution privileges, was acceptable after twenty- 
 four hours of dusting. 
 
64 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 Our next rcsting-placc Elizevagrad, one of the cavalry posts 
 of Russia. A few years ago, tlie Emperor reviewed eighty thou- 
 sand cavalry here. Then with a gallop of twenty-four hours 
 over the steppes (prairie) reached the Black Sea fleet station of 
 Nicholaioff — a fine town on high ground, nearly surrounded 
 by water. 
 
 The admiral to whom we had letters had gone to Sevastopol. 
 Feeling that we had nearly reached the end of our journey, 
 pushed on with invigorated spirits to Odessa ; only stopping now 
 and then to "Tchai." At one place my culinary skill was 
 called into requisition to poach some eggs ; as all we could get 
 was fire, eggs and a plate, no water or thing to heat it in. 
 
 Eeaching Odessa Sunday morning, after a fatiguing journey 
 of nine days, almost constant travelling, and making nearly a 
 thousand miles; both of us in best of health and spirits, 
 found an excellent hotel on the terrace overlooking the Black 
 Sea, with rooms on the water. A comfortable breakfast once 
 more, our things examined, and such a plight ! Everything full 
 of dust ! Poor Peter, half dead, thinking his work and responsi- 
 bility over, was soon composed to sleep on a bench, with his 
 martial cloak around him. We vowing never to go through 
 this again, went to sleep like Peter — but on a bed. 
 
 This afternoon, dinner over, strolled on the Boulevard, over- 
 looking the finest bay on the Black Sea. 
 
 Nearly in front of the hotel is a fine flight of steps of yellow 
 stone. The Duke de Richelieu, a French emigrant, while go- 
 vernor of the place, built it. They are about one hundred feet 
 wide, descended by six flights ; at the bottom a bathing-house, 
 whose privileges of a Black Sea swim we found most grateful. 
 Called with our letters. 
 
 Mr. Rallie, the Consul, told me that some fifteen years since, 
 when travellers were less frequent, a New York gentleman and 
 his wife stopped here on their way from the East to St. Peters- 
 burg. Prince "Woronzoff had a party just after their arrival, 
 and sent them an invitation. The guests hearing she was Ame 
 
»M»w;;vX«>¥--"'^~ 
 
 Sketched by the Author. . See page 5S. 
 
 A TUAVELLEKS IDEA OF OKDEU, CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
y 
 
 IS 
 
 a» 
 
GOOD BYE TO RUSSIA. 65 
 
 rican, all exclaimed, with surprise, "Why, she is white! why, 
 
 she is white !" 
 
 No one is considered a merchant here who does not deal in 
 grain. In the autumn the streets are impassable from the wag- 
 gons, which I can imagine from the thousands of them I met 
 on the road, many trains of thirty and forty each. The country 
 for fourteen hundred miles is an uninterrupted grain field. 
 
 The town is mostly built of yellowish stone like that used in 
 Paris. It is pleasant looking, with fine view from its lofty site. 
 
 • Engaged our courier for a tour through the Crimea. The 
 day before starting, he mysteriously disappeared, and as he could 
 not leave the place without permission of the police, we sup- 
 posed he had been shut up by them to prevent travellers go- 
 ing there, without resorting to the necessity of forbidding it. 
 So we spent our time in sight-seeing and dining with friends, 
 who were kind and attentive. 
 
 Difficult as is the job to get into Russia, it is about as hard to 
 get out. And as I had dismissed my courier, and the other ser- 
 vant had dismissed himself, it took me nearly a day to get 
 my visees. The last official I found in the kitchen of the con- 
 cierge, in his shirt sleeves, eating stewed pears ; he asked me to 
 join him, but time was too precious. We bid good-bye to Eus- 
 sia, where we had passed so many pleasant daj'S. 
 
 The villages on our way were mere hamlets ; the soil badly cul- 
 tivated ; the threshing done on the bare ground, and grain car- 
 ried hundreds of miles to market by miserable little waggons, 
 holding about two wheelbarrow loads, and taking from four to 
 six weeks in the transport. Near the Sea of Azoff are large- 
 beds of anthracite coal. 
 
 Constantinople, Sept. lAih, 1851. — This morning arrived; 
 after a pleasant sail of thirty-nine hours. In the night a sudden 
 squall came up, and I was awaked by the steward shutting my 
 window ; luckily, my India-rubber traps saved me from a cold 
 bath, a wave having just preceded his arrival. 
 
5Q FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 The Bosphorus is narrow and winding, witli numerous forts 
 on the rocky eminences. We thought they added much to the 
 landscape, though the Czar, doubtless, is of a different opinion, 
 as the}^ and the treaty prevent his fleet going into the Mediter- 
 ranean. The shores are lined with villages, and the hills with 
 gardens and fields. About half way down, passed Therapia, the 
 summer resort of the diplomatic corps, where we stopped to send 
 the Eussian despatches on shore. Then on through one of the 
 most beautifully mingled views of land and w^ater I have ever 
 seen. The hills, valley, and shore varied with vineyards, 
 villages, and villas, occasionally a palace of the Sultan, tall 
 minarets, or a conspicuous dome of some mosque, arrested the 
 eye, while the waters were dotted with craft of every description, 
 nation, and rig, from the light caique of the Osmanli to the lofty 
 four-deckers of the Sultan. Zebeques, with their irregular rig, 
 Austrian, French, English (everything but American) flags met 
 the eye. And that flag which an American has the more reason to 
 be proud of, the farther he wanders, had gone to the Dardanelles 
 a few days previous, borne by the Mississippi, where she awaited 
 the delivery of Kossuth from the Turkish governors. 
 
 Though no American flag met our eye, we had the satisfaction 
 of knowing the Turkish vessels of war and many of the steam- 
 ers pl3^ing the Bosphorus were made by Americans. 
 
 At last we dropped anchor in the " Golden Horn," a small 
 cove separating Stamboul (Constantinople proper) from Pera, 
 where foreigners reside and do business. At the junction of 
 the "Golden Horn" wdth the Bosphorus, stands the Sultan's 
 Palace, called " Seraglio Point." 
 
 The immense mosques of Santa Sophia, Sulimania, and 
 Mahmoud, with their tall minarets, rise proudly above seraglio 
 and palace. In the distance are the ruins of ancient aqueducts, 
 the walls of the city, the scene of many a hard-fought battle, 
 and the seven towers. But travellers have made this scene 
 too familiar to our eyes to render another description necessary, 
 even to the sudden transition, on landing, from the lovely 
 
THE SULTAJSr's HAEEM. 57 
 
 picturesque to the sliocldng filth of streets and place, and the 
 praise accorded the sensible Englishman who, rapt iu admi- 
 ration of the view from his yacht, never left her, fearing to 
 destroy the impression. We had hardly dropped anchor, when 
 the servant of Mr. F. (whom we had left at St. Petersburg, but 
 who had preceded us, via Vienna and the Danube,) was most 
 kindly sent aboard for us to join his family and a party for the 
 mosques, palaces, etc. We had a delightful excursion among 
 these oft-read-of but never-to-be-realized places, except on ocular 
 demonstration. Then at the hotel we have lovely views of 
 Stamboul and the Bosphorus. 
 
 AYe are by the side of a burial-ground, which appears to be a 
 promenade for braying donkeys, growling camels, and fighting 
 dogs, judging from the perpetual concert they keep up. 
 
 Sept. lAth. — A gala day, our little party of Americans, six in all, 
 took carriages for Scutari, on the Asiatic shore, where, with 
 horses for the gentlemen, and arabahs (vehicles drawn by oxen) 
 for the two ladies, we went to Bulgurlu, a high hill which affords 
 a beautiful panoramic view of the city, Bosphorus, and Sea of 
 Marmora. Here were all the ladies of the Sultan's "harem" 
 (house) ; we passed leisurely through — a Frank lady being as 
 great a curiosity to them as they to us ; consequently returned 
 our stare with interest ; throwing aside their yashmacs, ceasing 
 to eat bonbons, drink sherbet, and almost to smoke their pipes. 
 
 Few of them were good-looking ; they have full faces, dark 
 eyes, pale complexions (fi'om their constant veiling or confine- 
 ment in the house), and very little intelligence ; what we term a 
 most rmmeaning face. Their eyebrows are painted till they 
 nearly or quite meet. On our way home, rowed down the Bos- 
 phorus, over the spot where the sultans summarily dispose of 
 troublesome and bagged members of their female domestic circles, 
 passing the city and her sea walls, so often crimsoned by con- 
 tending foes, and over which blind Dandalus was led, conquer- 
 ing as he went. Landed at the extremity of the city, where 
 stands the first of the "seven towers:" not finding horses, walked 
 
58 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 on and passed the Golden Gate through which the Emperors rode 
 in triumph. There arc three walls on the land side. At last got 
 two horses, and though with men's saddles, a most agreeable 
 relief to the ladies of our party; we walked on either side, cava- 
 liers a pied^ helping them hold on in so awkward a side-saddle. 
 Got to hotel at ten, after an amusing walk of six miles. 
 
 "We are now arranging for our journey to Mosul, Nineveh, 
 and so on to Jerusalem. A long big-fisted Irishman from 
 Australia wishes to go with us ; he has an ugly, gaunt-looking 
 wife who holds the purse, well filled too I fancy, from the satis- 
 faction she takes in jingling it in her pocket while she stalks 
 along with grenadier stride. The wife he proposes to send on 
 direct to Jerusalem, and we have concluded to take him, think- 
 ing he'd be such a "broth of a boy" if we should chance to 
 have a " scrimmage " with the Arabs (who are very troublesome) 
 en route. So my room is in the j oiliest kind of confusion. On 
 the floor, patent canteens, pistols, flasks, clothes, camp bedstead, 
 maps, a library of books for reading, studying, and sketching ; 
 ink, pencils, paper, compasses, bullet moulds ; around on chairs 
 and sofas, are scattered coats and India-rubber " traps," while 
 trunks lay open around me with all the etceteras of a vagrandiz- 
 ing comfortable traveller ; musketo-bars, camera-obscura, her- 
 barium, and a medicine chest ; the lancets and weights, with the 
 book of directions I've just been examining. They extend from 
 a broken neck to a snake bite. Being issued under act of Par- 
 liament and the Admiralty, feel I must arrive at some termina- 
 tion, kill or cure, though should feel more faith if qualified by 
 " Act of Congress " than Parliament, as we stifi'-necked Eepubli- 
 cans are apt to be rebellious to all that bears the impress of 
 royalty. 
 
 To-day, visited Terrhapia and our minister ; most of his family 
 have suffered severely from a trip to Egypt, the desert, and 
 Palestine, last spring and this summer. Dined with the Secre- 
 tary of Legation. Returning, called on several of the missiona- 
 ries, passing on our way down the new palace of the Sultan, 
 
A MODEL REPRESENTATIVE. 59 
 
 spoilt bj the lower part only being of marble, the rest of wood ; 
 but beautifully situated • on the water's edge. They have a 
 curious custom — every Sultan builds a palace for his successor. 
 
 Saw the dancing and howling Dervishes perform : one set on 
 either side of the Bosphorus. The one like " Lebanon Shakers," 
 the others, maniacs with their frantic " shines." 
 
 Saw the Sultan go to mosque this morning — a pale, thin man 
 about twenty-eight, of very slight form. 
 
 At the "sweet (fresh) waters" of Europe and Asia, another 
 sight of the Sultan's harem. 
 
 To-day made my first essay in donkey-riding, and was puz- 
 zled to know what to do with my legs, especially in a crowded 
 bazaar. 
 
 On a visit to "Prince's Islands," saw quantities of arbutus 
 trees, full of ripe fruit. 
 
 This morning learned our dragoman for Mosul, etc., whom we 
 have been waiting three weeks to find, had gone off with ano- 
 ther party, thinking he might be robbed or murdered returning 
 alone. So, with Mussulmanic philosophy, we must shrug our 
 shoulders and say, "Enshallah!" (God wills it!) 
 
 Now we go to Troy and Greece, en route to Syria, Egyj^t, etc. 
 As our diplomatic representatives so often disgrace their coun- 
 try, except it may be in England and France, I'll pay a parting 
 tribute to our most worthy and esteemed one here, who has so 
 ably sustained, in all the walks of public and private life, the 
 
 high reputation he bore at home. Mr. C , a previous 
 
 representative, in the same "kit" and category as Bagby, Han- 
 negan, and Polk, vain of his ugly "corpus," exposed himself, 
 nude, at the ministerial windows, to some Greek ladies. Their 
 brothers, in natural indignation at the insult, took the law into 
 their own hands, and would have assassinated him, had he not 
 possessed more prudence (or cowardice, term it which you will 
 — that, and gratuitous insult to a woman, are the same) than 
 modesty, and thus hid himself. 
 
 The Turks, with that love of the "almighty dollar" falsely 
 
60 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 imputed to us alone, keep Sunday instead of Friday, in order 
 to avoid losing the Frank custom of one day. 
 
 October 2d. — DARDANELLES. — Yesterday came down from 
 Constantinople, which I parted from with regret: I've passed 
 my time so delightfully, and had such lovely views from my 
 window ; from early morning to midnight I gaze upon its thou- 
 sand glittering lights; the dark outlines of Santa Sophia and 
 Suleimanye, with their lofty minarets, and beyond, Marmora 
 reflecting the moon's rays from its glassy surface, until it seems 
 a dream too beautiful for reality. 
 
 Just before leaving yesterday, a very nice fellow asked per- 
 mission to join us at Beyrout — one of the leading members of 
 the old Visconti family at Milan. Being too ardent a repub- 
 lican, had been obliged to take refuge here. I hope he will join 
 us ; I like him much. 
 
 At this place we stay with the English vice-consul. The 
 scene on the deck was most amusing ; the Turks always have 
 part portioned off to them ; and being exclusive, confined them- 
 selves to their quarter, where they scrubbed, chatted, and 
 scolded — the latter quality the feminine gender in this nation 
 excel in. 
 
 Scattered about the forward deck were Mussulmans, Jews, 
 Armenians, Greeks, and Heaven only knows who or what else. 
 I should think, a dash of every clime, from the variety of 
 costume, enveloped in >huge blankets, cloaks, and the shaggy 
 "capote." 
 
 On the wheel-house were two Persian priests, with their tall 
 pointed fur caps, prostrating themselves, with their eyes turned 
 towards Mecca. I wandered about the decks, passenger and 
 moon-gazing until tired, and then turned in. 
 
 This morning arrived at the Dardanelles, at six, leaving Ses- 
 tos and Abydos about three miles behind us. Went ashore at 
 the little town of Chanak-Kalasi {Anglice, Pottery- ware Town). 
 
THE PLAINS OF TKOY. 61 
 
 October Mh. — Started for the moutli of the Dardanelles, land- 
 ing near Boonabashe. The sail was delightful, passing the 
 various guard forts. 
 
 They use immense cannon, with granite balls of enormous 
 size ; one nearly sunk an English fi-igate a few years ago, one of 
 the fleet that forced the passage. No vessel is allowed to pass 
 after dark. During the night constantly hear the cannon fired 
 to "come to." 
 
 In the style of Homer, most sapient D , long-legged I , 
 
 and most useful Joseph, were soon landed from their sharp- 
 prowed caique. With our " traps " on our backs trudged to 
 the village, about the spot where the " valiant Achilles," "much- 
 devising Ulysses," and their warlike countrymen first landed. 
 "We were soon in the saddle, and stopped for the night at a khan 
 opposite Tenedos, where was a most primitive lighthouse (a 
 large fire) on a hill. 
 
 This morning in the saddle before sunrise, and soon fairly on 
 the Plains of Troy. Three mounds are pointed out as the tombs 
 of Hector, Achilles, and Ajax. On a high hill, some distance 
 from the sea, the remains of the old city, and in the distance the 
 rivers Scamander and Simoeis, now nearly dry. The plains, 
 over which Homer has thrown a mystic spell, are low, and flat, 
 growing grapes and olives, but even they not flourishing, — 
 perhaps a judgment on the desecration. 
 
 On over broken columns and other vestiges of ancient ruins, 
 reached the Amphitheatre of Alexander Troas (built by Anti- 
 gonus, one of Alexander's generals). The columns of grey 
 granite, some five feet in diameter and sixty feet high. One of 
 the columns lying in the water, showed the encroachment of the 
 sea. 
 
 Inside of an old wall is seen a large ruin, called Priam's 
 Palace, — the ruins so large and massive that I actually rode to the 
 top of the building, where my friend unfurled " the flag," which 
 I saluted with my pistol. Then continued on finding and ex- 
 ploring many more similar ruins, though none as large. Eeached 
 
62 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 the baths, where were mineral waters — I suppose a Trojan Sara- 
 toga. At last, near dark, we got to the little village of Ulaga ; 
 after much delay found they had no rooms — but we could lodge 
 in the quarantine ; being all we could get, and too late to con- 
 tinue on, had to take it ; and stowed our three valuable selves as 
 best we could. By guess measurement, our quarters were eight 
 feet wide by twelve long. Here there was a space five feet 
 square for passage, wood, etc., cut in the floor, which was about 
 three feet above the ground; and ceiling just six feet high. In 
 this spacious apartment had to be lodged — ourselves, servant, 
 provender, saddles, and other " traps." 
 
 Not being proud, we went to the common fountain, and took 
 our turn at ablutions with Turks, niggers, donkeys, horses, 
 camels, and other cattle. 
 
 From the number of huge turbaned fellows hanging round our 
 door, our place must be the " Ton " itself, and certainly of sanc- 
 tity, for we are under the same roof as the mosque, as we soon , 
 learned by the " Muezzin " (or cry to prayer), and nasal whine 
 of the worshippers. 
 
 They have a funny way of leading a train of camels, gene- 
 rally by a little donkey, which produces a ludicrous effect. 
 
 Dardanelles, Oct 4:th. — Last night I was woke up by a cat 
 walking across my feet, I shouted, and she landed on Mr. D., en 
 route to the window. 
 
 This morning toileted at the fountain with our friends of last 
 evening. Off before sunrise. The sunrises and sunsets are 
 lovely, with those beautiful tints we always see in pictures of the 
 Mediterranean. 
 
 Passed through the little village of Eenkoii, and scrambling 
 along breakneck paths reached the shores of the Dardanelles 
 again, and two hours after in Chanak-kalasi, at the comfortable 
 house of the Consul, and right glad to get there after twelve 
 hours in the saddle. 
 
 Oct. 5th. Eowed to Abydos, and ascended the hill where Xerxes 
 
Sketcbed by the Author 
 
 RUINS OF PPvIAMS PALACE. TROY. 
 
 See page 61. 
 
SMYRNA. 63 
 
 viewed his vast army, and made his memorable exclamation. 
 Here his famous bridge was fastened, and to this place Leander 
 swam nightly to see his " lady-love." The Turks, in excavating 
 from the top of the hill for a battery, found the hexagonal base 
 of what was either Xerxes's throne or a light-house. On our re- 
 turn the guns were thundering forth their sunset salute in honor 
 of the Turkish feast the " Eamazan." 
 
 Smyrna, Oct. 7th. — ^Yesterday the steamer (though French) 
 following the charming track of these Orientals, who fancying 
 to-morrow is as good as to-day, and the day after better yet, 
 did not arrive until near twelve. While waiting for her saw 
 one of the carts of this place, which performs the double duty 
 of cart and "hurdy-gurdy," The wheels are very small and 
 solid, with a narrow iron tire, the wood tapering off and so fine 
 it would ruin the best road in the world. The wheels and axle- 
 trees are morticed together ; never being greased its eternal 
 squeak sounds like a drove of swine in full concert. 
 
 Our sail was delightful, and found several acquaintances on 
 board of the steamer. 
 
 Passed between Troy and Tenedos. 
 
 The harbor of Smyrna is beautiful. We have not been on 
 shore, but we shall spend some days here on our return. 
 
 Our departure this morning was delayed some hours for the 
 captain to breakfast with the admiral, and yesterday for him to 
 go ashore at the Dardanelles to shoot. A few trips since, in 
 the anxiety to shoot, they forgot the mail, which they did not 
 discover until about two hours after they had started. 
 
 PiR^US, Oct. 8th. — I date from the Quarantine rooms. We 
 had a charming sail here, passing the principal islands and 
 ports. Mytilene and Scio were illuminated by coal kilns, 
 which produced a very fine efiect, thirty or forty lighting up 
 the entire side of the mountains. 
 
 This morning saw Pentelicus and the mountains at Mara- 
 
64 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 thon, passing under tlic promontory of Sunium, with the ruined 
 old Temple of Minerva crowning its brow. There are just twelve 
 columns standing. Now Athens is in sight, so I must close. 
 
 Athens, October 10. — After a quarantine of three days, an 
 amusement or vexation these wiseacres get up for annoying 
 each other, the doctor looked in this morning, and finding us 
 all flourishing, let us out. We were soon off for Athens, a dull, 
 dusty drive of six miles, and particularly iminteresting — though 
 we did our best to feel enthusiastic and recall all the Grecian lore 
 whipped into us at school, but much of it long since forgotten. 
 
 The Pirceus is a most diminutive port, the entrance only about 
 two hundred feet wide. 
 
 We are established in the Hotel d'Angleterre, under the aus- 
 pices of two hosts, one with the reputation of being the greatest 
 liar in Greece, the other of having been a bandit ; but they keep 
 the best hotel here. 
 
 Went this evening to view the Temple of Jupiter Olympus by 
 moonlight, the largest of the temples, begun first and completed 
 last (by the Eomans) ; a joint monument of the two nations. 
 There are only sixteen columns left — but their immense size gives 
 an idea of its magnitude ; they formed the fagade and are sixty 
 feet high by six and a half in diameter. Near by, the Arch of 
 Hadrian, one of the entrances to the city. We climbed up to 
 the Acropolis, but the Cerberus of the citadel was not to be bribed. 
 Visited the vast ruins of the theatre built by Herodes Atticus, in 
 honor of his wife. 
 
 The Acropolis is a ragged, rocky hill — and has always been the 
 citadel; thus the perpetual target for bombs and cannon-balls 
 during the sieges, and much to the- detriment of the beautiful 
 temples that crown this fortress. While the Parthenon was the 
 powder magazine of the Venetians, a bomb exploded and shat- 
 tered it. 
 
 Saw Mr. Hill, the American Missionary, and Chaplain to the 
 English Embassy — the only instance on record of the position 
 
THE PLAIN OF MARATHON. 65 
 
 ever being offered to an American. The place being vacant the 
 English Minister had him appointed, a compliment and mark of 
 his high esteem. Mr. and Mrs. Hill are much interested in their 
 school, which, some years, has had over a thousand scholars — 
 many of the pupils children of former scholars. 
 
 Our Presbyterian missionary has a pretty Smyrnian wife who 
 won't be of any religion. Then to a Greek court — saw a modern 
 Demosthenes defending his client for stealing sponges ; if he stole 
 them for his own use should have been let off, on condition of 
 using them. The judges invited us to sit near them, doubtless 
 irom a fellow feeling, "birds of a feather," &c. 
 
 Suiiday, 12th. — Yesterday were off by break of day, with a 
 dashing young Albanian guide, for Marathon. Half the journey 
 in carriage, rest on horseback. Last night it rained, and this 
 morning the air is very fresh. Passed Hymettus, then Pente- 
 licus' white peaks. Shortly after starting, discovered my friend 
 missing, — turning back, found him and his horse having a game 
 of "leap-frog," one on his nose the other on his knees. Chang- 
 ing horses with him, he got along better. 
 
 Marathon is a long narrow plain at the foot of the mountains, 
 and bordered on the other side by the sea. A half washed and 
 dug-away hill marks the place where the Athenians were buried, 
 and a heap of stones where Miltiades was afterwards entombed 
 on the field of his fame. 
 
 The road home lined with arbutus trees in fruit. This even- 
 ing a full moon, — went to the Parthenon. The Archseological So- 
 ciety of Athens has done much to remove the rubbish from the 
 Acropolis, and put together old temples. The Turks, when 
 besieged here, made cannon balls from the columns of the Par- 
 thenon and other temples. 
 
 This morning at daylight, we and our servant were off for 
 Mars' Hill, Mr. D. did St. Paul, the servant and I the audience— 
 [the Areopagite, and he, not understandingEnghsh, the Athenian. 
 Returned by Socrates' prison, and the Bema where Themistocles 
 
 5 
 
66 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE, 
 
 and Demosthenes harangued the assembHes. An admirable spot 
 for the purpose : they here could appeal to the feelings, in sight of 
 their homes, the temple-crowned Acropolis with the altars of 
 their gods, the bay of Salamis, and the numerous sites of their 
 victories as they circled the horizon. 
 
 The palace is an immense abortive attempt at architecture, 
 with but one feature of success in its construction — enriching the 
 rascally architect who made a large fortune out of it. 
 
 Dinner over, the band played in the grand square ; the King 
 and Queen rode up with their suite — she has been pretty, not so 
 now ; he, small, plain, and common looking. 
 
 October 14//;. — Started early yesterday morning on a tour of 
 two weeks through Grreece. Stopped in the vale of Daphne, 
 where once stood a temple to Apollo ; near it, the temple of 
 Yenus. Then tomb of Strato, now in ruins. Going on by the 
 "Via Sacra," passed the bay of Eleusis, the salt and fresh water 
 side by side. A few ancient tombs, then the temple of Ceres 
 and ruins of Eleusis. The temple must have been very fine, 
 judging from its ruins and a fa§ade ornament of Ceres reclining 
 on a ground of grains and fruit. Some Vandal has knocked off 
 the head and carried it away. Saw a fine statue with drapery. 
 
 Stopped for the night at Gasa, formerly Enarkos. Dined in 
 grand style with Alexander in full costume as waiter, and a 
 capital one too ; we have a retinue of seven horses and four men. 
 
 Off this morning before daylight, and got to the summit of the 
 mountains as the sun rose — a superb view — Parnassus' tall peak 
 still in sight, while Platea and Leuctra lay at our feet. Just 
 beyond, is Thebes. Getting out to walk, picked up a very old 
 coin. 
 
 Thebes is on a hill, its ancient mantle of glory now covers a 
 village of cobblers. After breakfast, stopped at Mardonius' 
 tomb ; the Lacedoemons were led by Pausanias, and Herodotus 
 pronounced their victory the greatest he ever heard of. 
 
 Crossed the Esopus, a stream, two and a half inches deep. 
 
CARNASSUS AT MIDNIGHT. 67 
 
 Leuctra is on a hill, witli a tumulus to mark the place of 
 those who fell under Epaminondas — next Thespia's former 
 site. 
 
 Did not get off early this morning; my friend sick. The 
 gendarmes went out after robbers. Passing the site of the Tem- 
 ple of the Muses saw some old columns covered with inscriptions 
 verifying the spot. Then fountains of Hippomene and Narcissus. 
 Stopped at Lebadea for the night. 
 
 Leaving the town, passed the caves of Trophonius curiously 
 honey-combed. On the summit, three hundred feet high, stands 
 the citadel. 
 
 Cheronea, a vast fertile plain, with ruins of amphitheatre and 
 citadel. Also of the lion over the tombs of the Boeotians who 
 fell in battle against Philip of Macedon. Near by, the chair of 
 Plutarch, and the old town of Achaia with its lofty citadel, and 
 on over a battle-field of Greeks and Turks to Arachova, through 
 thousands of acres of vineyard. 
 
 In waiting for dinner, amused ourselves throwing coppers out 
 of the window until a crowd of some seventy persons gathered. 
 
 Delphi, October 17th. — Eose at one — by half past breakfasted ; 
 and in our saddles, such as they were (on mules) ascending Par- 
 nassus, A lovely moonlight, the de'il was always possessing our 
 brutes to be constantly leaning over a precipice to pick a bon 
 bouclie of thistle, when we could see the cottage -lights hundreds 
 of feet below us. At this midnight hour, the clouds and moun- 
 tains blending together, and lit by the moon's rays, were like 
 angiy billows of snow. Peached the summit after six tedious 
 hours as the rising sun was gilding the mountain peaks and 
 tinging the clouds with rainbow colors. The last few hundred 
 feet we had to climb a pied ; the rotundity of my friend was not 
 compatible with that, so three men pulled him up. The view 
 was one of the most extensive I've ever beheld. All Greece 
 seemed present to our gaze. 
 
 Descending, stopped at the celebrated Corycian cave, an up- 
 
68 FROM WALL STllEET TO CASUMERE. 
 
 hill scramble of a thousand feet. The entrance is small ; the 
 large chamber, one hundred by two hundred feet, and fifty high, 
 covered with stalactites, and the floor with stalagmites, followed 
 by a succession of smaller damp slimy chambers. On to Delj^hi, 
 which we reached by a breakneck road at nine this evening. 
 
 Galaxidi, Sunday, October 19lh. — After a disturbed night 
 from rain with a leaky roof above, uneasy horses below, and 
 mewing cats in the room, we hurried through breakfast and off 
 for the oracular seat. Visited Apollo's Temple, lately discovered 
 in excavating, then the Castalian fount. I quaffed the water, 
 but the spell of poesy has not come o'er me yet. Saw the seat 
 of the priestess when delivering the oracles — then the stadium, 
 and various tombs cut in the rock along the road. 
 
 Turned to look once more on this amphitheatre of nature 
 and ancient seat of Grecian mythology — then on to the port, 
 or Scala di Salona, passing the spot where (Edipus killed his 
 father. 
 
 Beginning to rain, we started pell-mell for the village. Not 
 being able to get a large boat for Vestiggia, took a small one for 
 thLs place. No better luck here, for none would start till Mon- 
 day morning, so we made our quarters over a coffee-room. 
 
 Down stairs the Greeks have been quarrelling over their cards 
 all day. 
 
 Megaspelion, 21sL — Eose at three yesterday, and went on the 
 boat. The horses were slung aboard most strangely. With 
 little wind we were drifting about all day. On landing, the 
 horses were slung over the side by a noose, and held up in the 
 water till the noose was unfastened, when they swam ashore ; a 
 more brutal affair I have never seen. On the way to the khan 
 passed a sycamore tree forty-three feet in circumference. 
 
 Left this miserable town at seven ; travelled over beautiful 
 and verdant mountain scenery, with wild flowers, and the arbutus 
 red with fruit. Got here in the afternoon. The building is 
 
A JOVIAL PRIEST, G9 
 
 perched in the recess of a projecting mountain peak, with high 
 stronsr walls around it. Here the Greek Revolution first broke 
 
 O 
 
 out, and afterwards the Turks were repulsed, with great loss, in 
 their attempt to take it. The semicircular hill-side garden 
 terraced down three hundred feet. The old priest showed us a 
 " Transfiguration," presented by the Emperor of Russia, the 
 chapel, and wine vaults. The latter are extensive, and apparently 
 their pride ; they also showed several fountains, but of no use 
 that I could discover, internally or externally. 
 
 Corinth, 23rd October. — Night before last a very amusing time. 
 The old priest, the head of the establishment, declined to dine or 
 drink with us (at these places you have your own dinner), but he 
 dined at his own end of the table, libating very freely of their 
 own beastly wine (with flavor of melted pitch and sealing-wax), 
 every time reversing his glass to show us he left no " heel-taps ;" 
 then said he would take a little with us, and some brandy, so 
 poured out a good half-tumbler, drank it off (pure) in two swal- 
 lows. He gagged and choked ; at last, as by degrees, recovering 
 the use of his half excoriated throat, gulped out as he stroked 
 his long beard, " su-per-li-ti-i-vum seniori." 
 
 Three or four tumblers of wine following this in quick succes- 
 sion, he soon became oblivious, and threatened to whip us if we 
 did not eat some grapes he brought ; then wished to send some to 
 the President of the United States, and begged us to make a 
 long visit, etc. 
 
 Yesterday, left early ; had all sorts of a ride, — chmbing tops 
 of mountains, and galloping along the shore of the Gulf of 
 Corinth to Zaphilites. 
 
 To-day, visited Sicyon, formerly one of the first kingdoms in 
 Greece, now only the ruins of a temple and theatre visible. At 
 Corinth went to the old temple of Minerva, which is stuccoed ! 
 Then firom the khan to the Acro-Corinth, or citadel, eighteen 
 hundred feet in the air. 
 
 " A fortress form'd to freedom's hands." 
 
70 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 It has all sorts of fortiiications, the eternal Venetian tower among 
 the rest. The view is magnificent, — the place impregnable. The 
 rest of Corinth has vanished ; Eoman, Goth, Venetian, and Turk, 
 have destroyed every vestige of this once mistress of Grecian 
 luxury and art. 
 
 Athens, Monday ^Itli. — Friday, passed the Nemean cave 
 shortly after leaving Corinth, — the ruins of Cleonse, then Nemea, 
 with a few temple ruins. 
 
 Met two armed men in a defile, gendarmes, my guide said, 
 but I thought robbers, from his sudden flush, as he handed 
 them some money and whipped into a rapid gallop. The guides 
 have all the robber bands in pay, as the robbery of a traveller 
 would cost them their business. 
 
 Saw the track in the rocks of ancient chariot wheels. Then 
 reached Mycenas. The city is on a hill. Part of the walls in 
 good preservation, built of large stones, laid without mortar. 
 The two gates, the one of Lions very perfect except their heads. 
 They lean against a column. Near is the (so-called) treasury 
 of Atreus ; further on the tomb of Agamemnon, some say of 
 Atreus, — a curious, conical, bee-hive-looking affair, fifty feet in 
 diameter and height. The principal chamber was laid in stone 
 covered with brass. The stone over the door twenty-seven feet 
 long by eighteen broad, and three thick. Then to the Nixus of 
 Argos, its citadel, on a small mountain near the city; at its base 
 an old theatre. 
 
 Saturday. — ^This morning rode to Nauplia, stopping at Tyre- 
 nus or Tyrens. The walls are in good condition, in the outer 
 one an arched way ; near it sat an owl — perhaps Minerva her- 
 self, watching us. 
 
 Nauplia is the only really well-fortified town in Greece ; the 
 streets are tolerable. It was the capital for a few years during the 
 regency: — then full gallop (the usual style, and over such roads, 
 one would consider elsewhere certain destruction to man or 
 
— v-:."^---^- '■ 
 
 SkftcluMl by till' Author. 
 
 KUINS OF TEMPLE OF JUI'ITEi; (Jl.VMlT.-^, ATHENS. 
 
 See p.ige W. 
 
A VISIT TO THE ACROPOLIS. 71 
 
 beast, perhaps both, and here neither) over horrid, loose, stony, 
 and breaknecli ways. 
 
 Stopped at Hiero, where stood the Temple of Esculapius, 
 which, from the ruins, must have been both immense and beau- 
 tiful. The theatre is the only perfect seated one I have seen 
 (they are cut in the rock or of stone), this would hold twelve 
 thousand. 
 
 On to Epidaurus through the Sacred Grrove. 
 
 Sunday. — This place, though small, very ancient. The first 
 Congress met here. Left at five in a small boat, and with heavy 
 wind and sea been beating about all day. At dusk put into a 
 small cove in the island of ^gina. 
 
 I started with the captain to see the old Temple of Jupiter. 
 Has twenty -two columns standing, in many parts perfect. 
 
 Monday. — Last night our lodging, a cavern just above the 
 water's edge, the bed an old carpet. My friend and the ser- 
 vant, like yesterday, enjoying a felicity of sea-sickness. 
 
 Eeached the Pireeus at one, and right glad to get on terra 
 firma after an adventurous cruise, which was far from a safe 
 one. At the hotel found several Southern and New York ac- 
 quaintances. 
 
 This afternoon Mr. Hill, who was delighted to see us safe 
 back (the country swarms with banditti), accompanied us to the 
 Acropolis. The Archaeological Society have quite restored, or 
 put together, the ruins of the little Temple of Victory, which 
 stands at the side of the Propylaeon. The goddess at Sparta is 
 chained, here is represented as laying aside her garments to 
 remain. There is a hideous square Venetian tower, decided by 
 the King of Bavaria (an imaginary wiseacre in such matters) to 
 remain as marking an epoch. Then the chariot-worn rocks, by 
 which the Panathenssan procession passed every fifth year. 
 
 Now the Parthenon, robbed of much of its beauty and orna- 
 ment by barbarian Turk, scarce less vandalic Saxon, still retains 
 
72 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 enou2:h to encliant. In its centre stood the famous statue of 
 
 O 
 
 Minerva, "whose gilded spear could be seen from Cape Colonna. 
 The setting sun was gilding Hymettus' crest and mellowing the 
 landscape as we descended. 
 
 29th, Wednesday, PiRiEUS. — ^Yesterday finished our sight- 
 seeing; visited the Stadium, crossed the Ilyssus, saw the choragic 
 .monument of Lysicrates, Temple of the Winds, and Hadrian's 
 iGranary, a very handsome building. 
 
 To-day came down expecting to find the French steamer. 
 Met Mr. Hill, who took us to call upon Mr. Black, whose wife 
 was Byron's " Maid of Athens." Mr. B. is a professor with 
 every requisite for success but good lack. Mrs. B., dark hair 
 and eyes, with prett}^ teeth. The daughter is a very pretty young 
 ladv of nineteen. 
 
 The steamer not coming, we stayed with some very nice people, 
 American missionaries. In the evening a niece of our friend, 
 Mr. Rallie, of Odessa, came in — a young lady of eighteen, who 
 was soon to be married to a Greek merchant in London whom 
 she had never seen. They have a curious custom in these 
 affairs. If a gentleman is pleased with a young lady he tells some 
 mutual friend, who informs her parents. If they like him they 
 settle upon the amount of her dowry, and propose to the young 
 man or his family ; but it's a great disgrace for the young man to 
 propose first. Often the matches are made by the families with- 
 out either party seeing the other. Called to see a daughter of 
 Marco Bozzaris, but she was out of town. 
 
 The priests, as usual, are illiterate — the monks are looked down 
 on. Their establishments are of ancient foundation. The 
 Ejng as small in mind as bod}^, with no sympathy for the coun- 
 try. Yery few roads and those bad. 
 
 The country, if properly cultivated, would be very productive 
 and of great adaptability for most things. Greek honesty and 
 integrity are commodities unknown. 
 
THE LADIES OF SMYENA. 73 
 
 Smyrna, October 31. — Yesterday started for this place with 
 some English friends. "Was introduced to Col. Rawlinson, now 
 on his way to Mosul. 
 
 At our hotel several New Yorkers, en route for Syria or 
 Egypt. One had lately returned from Iceland. 
 
 Just seen an Enghsh paper with the distribution of prizes at 
 tiie Great Exhibition, and gi-atified to find in the scientific 
 department, we've come off with flying colors, though that eagle 
 did spread his wings over a blank space in the large room. 
 
 The country is swarming with robbers, and since the Dutch 
 Consul was carried off a few days since from his garden, and 
 only released on paying of twentj^-five hundred dollars, all the 
 merchants have moved into town. The government takes very 
 little trouble to suppress the robbers, and all its expeditions 
 against them, are got up with such a parade they have time to 
 run away. 
 
 The ladies have a custom (for strangers very pleasant) of sit- 
 ting afternoons at their doors, in full dress, sewing or gossipping 
 with their opposite neighbors; many of them are pretty. They 
 mostly adopt the European style of dress ; a few wear the scarf 
 on the head and a fez (red cap) with the hair in a large braid 
 around the forehead, with a veil instead of a bonnet. There 
 are many Armenians here ; they are the Jews of the east in finan- 
 cial matters. At Smyrna, they indulge in a perfect Babel of 
 languages. The Dutch Consul's wife is English or American: 
 they have four sons and two daughters : the sons are married to 
 English, American, Italian, and Danish ladies — the daughters to a 
 Frenchman and a Maltese. 
 
 Monday^ November Sd. — Started this afternoon for Beirut, 
 
 about half a dozen passengers, among them Capt. C an 
 
 English officer, and great traveller, who was with Fremont on 
 his Rocky Mountain Expedition. 
 
 BeirtjT, November 8th. — First night:— had a glimpse of Patmos. 
 
74 FKOM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 Second day, stopped at Rhodes, where are many remains of the 
 Knights of St. John, in the armorial bearings on the houses and 
 church. There are two harbors, both very small. Third day, 
 stopped at Cyprus : went to Larnica the sea-port, — supposed to 
 be the ancient Citpum where Zeno was born, and Cimon the 
 Athenian general died — j^assed Paphos, where Venus, springing 
 from the foam of the sea, landed, and where stood her hundred 
 temples. ' 
 
 We arrived at this place at seven this morning, and are in a 
 capital eastern hotel, by the water. We have had a cabinet 
 council over our plans. One LL.D., and two members of the 
 bar (of New Orleans and New York), with precedent and con- 
 tracts, against .a shrivelled up Arab. We succeeded, he rolled 
 up his eyes and remarked he was a poor Arab, and Allah is 
 great. One of the great questions being the Backsheesh (present) 
 the great motive power in every rank in every country, only 
 known under different names, ^'pou7^ hoire^^ office or something else. 
 
 Nov. llih. — We and Mr. Smith (the distinguished missionary, 
 
 formerly a classmate at Yale with my friend), IST , C , 
 
 and all started off, they for a tour through Syria, and we to El 
 Kelb to see some Assyrian inscriptions on the rocks in cuneiform 
 character. 
 
 I've just returned from Mr. Smith's studio, where he is 
 engaged in translating the Bible into Arabic. Yankee like, he 
 has made an improvement in the arrangement of the type. 
 
 There are in the English press, one hundred and fifty kinds 
 of letters and points : in the Arabic, eighteen hundred ! In the 
 study, the books are arranged on the three sides of the room on 
 a continuous desk ; they are all wide open, and in constant use, — 
 twelve Bibles in five languages, two commentaries, two concord- 
 ances, four dictionaries, four Hebrew grammars, three in Arabic, 
 and a book on particles. His method is to get a good translator 
 to make a good translation from Hebrew into Arabic ; he then 
 examines it, comparing it with the translations of the Bibles he 
 
STREET SIGHTS. 75 
 
 has, and after his corrections, re-examines it with a very learned 
 grammarian, who copies it. They then .print one hundred and 
 twenty copies, and send them to the various Arabic scholars in 
 Europe and America, requesting them to make any corrections 
 they may consider necessary. He has got to the fifth chapter of 
 Numbers, which he finished to-day. 
 
 Returning, saw some camels carrying sticks of timber, thirty 
 and forty feet long. As they occasionally oscillated, the poor 
 brutes were in momentary fear of a rap on their heads, which 
 they avoided by dodging. Our things went oQ" to the consulate 
 to-day. Such loads I've never seen on mortal man before : one 
 had two small but very heavy trunks on his back, held by a 
 fine cord passed round his forehead : on top of that a camp table 
 and legs, over his head Achmet put the camp stools, one part 
 of which refused to go over his nose, but he gave it a jerk almost 
 jamming the poor fellow's proboscis into his face : on either side 
 of his head hung two heavy leather water jugs: he finished the 
 load with a furnace and saddle, all to be carried nearly a mile 
 for ten cents ! and that rather above the usual price. 
 
 Wandering through the town, saw a little blackey sold (so 
 black, I believe charcoal would almost have made a white 
 mark on him), a boy of twelve, who, when his purchaser wished 
 to take him away, made furious fight with feet, teeth, and voice ; 
 his late owner cuffed and scolded ; the buyer, a very mild man, 
 did the persuasive and coaxed, but all of no avail. I left, and 
 perhaps they are hard at it yet. 
 
 The town is by a little bay, on the site of ancient Earytus. 
 This morning watched some men roofing a house with mortar. 
 There were a dozen with flat pounders, their feet and pounders 
 keeping time to a song by their leader ; such a performance by 
 twelve big-breeched fellows would have convulsed a New York 
 mason or roofer. 
 
 All the travellers have gone but my friend and self, — our sole 
 companion in the dining-room is a bulbul, who tries to brighten 
 our solitude with his cheerful notes. They look somewhat like 
 
76 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 our mocking-birds, but smaller ; tlieir note is more of a shrill 
 whistle than a continuous song. 
 
 SiDOisr, Nov. 14:tli. — After a hard day's ride from Beirut this 
 morning, we are cooped up in a sort of rubbish room about ten 
 feet square. After leaving the rough lanes, bordered by scraggy, 
 prickly pears, followed the seashore, and met several friends 
 returning from Jerusalem. One of them a militia general from 
 Albany, more skilled in trotting horses than in military tactics, 
 who, in his simplicity wore, by mistake, at all the balls while in 
 Europe, a full marshal's dress for a major-general's ! He had a 
 large parchment from the Governor of New York to inquire 
 into the state .of the cavalry in Eussia, To-day his first sentence 
 after " How-do-you-do," was, " I made the trip from Moscow to 
 Odessa in six hours and twenty minutes, — less time than ever 
 done before," overlooking in his speed Elizavagrad, where the 
 Emperor keeps a large cavalry dtpot^ and had eighty thousand 
 cavalry there at a review a few years ago. Passed over some 
 remains of Eoman road, and the temple where the whale 
 "beached" Jonah. 
 
 Solomon's Fountain, Nov. 15th. — Still skirting the sea, 
 passing ruins, and the town of Zareptlia (in the Bible), at three 
 entered Tyre, the "Island Cit}'-," connected with the land by a 
 
 « 
 
 narrow causeway of sand beach half a mile long. Truly, the 
 prophecy has been fulfilled, and describes most literally its 
 ruined walls, " Thou shalt be a place to spread nets upon." 
 Then to this place, large reservoirs, said to have been made by 
 Solomon. This morning, as I stopped to water my horse at a 
 fountain, an cx-pasha, who was breakfasting a short distance 
 off, surrounded by his suite, sent me an invitation to join him, 
 but I was obliged, for want of time, to decline. We have been 
 trying to manufacture some meat-biscuit soup, — a newly -patented 
 article my friend found while commissioner at the Exhibition : 
 so he, with spectacles, watch, and direction, read and timed, 
 
MOUNT CARMEL AND JAFFA. 77 
 
 while I with tucked up sleeves, spoon, jar, and pot of hot water, 
 did the scientific culinary, and Achmet, with hands in his pock- 
 ets, the spectator. As you may readily imagine it proved admi- 
 rable under such efficient artistes. 
 
 Mount Carmel, VJtk. — Yesterday and to-day still along the 
 sea-shore. To-day saw Hiram's tomb ; passed through several 
 large orange groves laden with their golden fruit, also the pretty 
 garden of a pasha : then visited the fortifications of Acre. The con- 
 vent is on the front of a spur of the mountain almost overhanging 
 the sea ; saw on their books the names of many of my friends. 
 
 Jaffa, November 20. — Still on the coast, passing Atleth 
 and Caesarea, with their extensive ruins. The consular agent 
 has put us in his house near the town ; a fine pipe of water runs 
 into his garden. After our warm ride we soon had our coats off, 
 and dove in like a couple of ducks. Was near being spilt 
 into a tan vat (of which there are as many as in Peter's time). 
 "While riding sideways my horse became frightened and restive ; 
 spurs and holsters would not allow me to get my leg back 
 again, and I was becoming resigned to be manufactured into 
 sole-leather. 
 
 Saw a funeral as we passed through the town, — the body on a 
 donkey, followed by a priest and a dozen women singing, neither 
 in time nor tune, to a discordant banjo. The women wear long 
 dresses and scarf, part of which envelopes the head. One article 
 of dress answers for the men, who wear a girdle around their 
 waist, the dress is not troublesome from length. We asked our 
 host about a place ten miles distant; said he had never been 
 there, or away from home but once, and then to make a pilgrim- 
 age to Jerusalem, — thirty-five miles ! 
 
 November 22. — "Gaza the Strong." Yesterday at Ashdod, 
 tried in vain to find Ekron. Bible says "is not," and I'm quite 
 of that belief. Saw a wedding at a distance, all dancing merrily 
 to the banjo. Stopped at Askalon, of which little but detached 
 
78 FROM WAT.L STREET TO CASHJIERE. 
 
 bits of wall and parts of towers is left. Met two Algerine pil- 
 grims here, on their way from Mecca ; pretended we wished a 
 servant to accompany us to America, and bargained with one 
 much to the amusement of his companions ; but the condition 
 that staggered the ragamuffin was, he must wear coat and trow- 
 sers like us. 
 
 We got a boy to bring us some tomatoes, which we had seen 
 in a garden ; he soon returned with a pocketful. As their dress 
 is only one robe, he had pulled a little extra shirt above his belt 
 for pocket, and his body made the lining ; we had a good laugh 
 at the novel pocket. 
 
 As there have been Bedouins about the town lately, our dra- 
 goman has provided guards ; so we shall be safe if attacked ; for 
 now, at near midnight, I hear them snoring a discordant quar- 
 tette. From the cultivation of the country I should fancy the 
 people all Fourierites. Their agricultural implements of the 
 rudest description, the plough a crooked branch. 
 
 Achmet has come in with the news of war in the desert, 
 between the tribes whose country we cross, and we may be 
 robbed or murdered ! Inspiriting. Some magnate is to be 
 married, and nightly receives a furious serenade — like the Dutch 
 ones on the Hudson. 
 
 November 24, — This morning we were off, cracking jokes at 
 our novel steeds (camels), Achmet scolding, camel-men shouting, 
 and animals growling — passed some armed and mounted Be- 
 douins. 
 
 Elarisit, November 26ih. — In quarantine three days, before 
 entering Egypt. The superintendent has got our names, and 
 those of our fathers, though my friend's has been dead fifty years. 
 Last night a sheik came for his tribute, but we have put him off 
 with two sour oranges until we leave this place. 
 
 To-day have been amused by seeing the Turkish officers prac- 
 tising the jereed, — a small stick five feet long — from whichever 
 side it is thrown the horse wheels and rushes with great rapidity. 
 
ARRIVAL AT CAIRO. 79 
 
 This evening saw a ludicrous aflfair in front of our tent ; one of 
 our men is a Nubian, about " seven feet nothing" high, and pro- 
 portionably thin ; he's for ever at his prayers, polishing his feet 
 and arms with sand, which the Prophet allows in absence of 
 water. While in the midst of a prayer he heard the rattling of 
 the pot cover ; at a glance he discovered the matter; his gourmand 
 companion was about attacking their supper, not liking to tax the 
 strength of his religious zeal by a continuance of his "genuflex- 
 ions," but with a hasty amen, hurried to keep him company. 
 
 November 30ih. — The " Medicos " were to see^ us this morning 
 and give us a clean bill of health ; so we all marched out, exhibit- 
 ing our tongues ; one man was found missing, blackey, who was 
 soon espied and signalled ; he came rushing up, rags flying, 
 thinking it the jolliest fun. My friend wished his inkstand 
 filled, those sheets of manuscript he has been throwing off like 
 a printer's press, for three daj^s past, having reduced it; but, 
 being in a wooden case, the bottle must be taken out and carried 
 by a string to the town to avoid contagion. 
 
 In one place to-day, saw them watering camels, drawing water 
 with a broken pitcher, a wooden wash-bowl receiving it ! This 
 evening a crowd of Arabs visiting Blackie, who claims the 
 people of the Desert as friends. 
 
 Cairo, December 8th. — Tliis morning entered this most pic- 
 turesque city, after an amusing yet rather fatiguing journey. 
 
 The Desert is neither a waste of soft sand, nor cultivated, but 
 either a succession of rolling hills or plain of compact sand, 
 sometimes hard and gravelly. Passed, yesterday, the bed of the 
 ancient canal, cut by Arsinoe, from the Mediterranean to the 
 Red Sea. The dromedary gait is fatiguing, from the constant 
 oscillating motion of the body, which you support by a wide sash 
 wound several times round the waist. The city looked lovely 
 as we entered, like a June morning with us. We passed the old 
 obelisk, and site of Heliopolis, built some forty years before the 
 tune of Joseph and " Mrs. Potiphar." Passed some slovenly- 
 
80 FRO]\I WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 looking soldiers practising sabre cutting on wet clay figures. 
 Arrived in the city, selected our hotel, called to sec our friends, 
 
 and present my letter to the honorable Mrs. C M , 
 
 wife of the English Consul-General, a well-known and esteemed 
 countrywoman, who, I learned, had died suddenly that morning. 
 Then chose our boat. 
 
 December 12th. — This afternoon on board our boat and up the 
 Nile, after seeing most, if not all, the sights, fortress, mosques, 
 including the beautiful new one Mohammed Ali built of alabas- 
 ter, in the form 'of a Maltese cross ; palace and mausoleum of 
 Mohammed All's children, monuments so numerous, of irregular 
 heights, and peculiar form, they looked like a badly kept aspara- 
 gus bed ; the slave market and beautiful tombs of the Mameluke 
 kings. 
 
 Going through the bazaars one day, saw a crowd, and heard 
 (Egyptian) harmonious strains preceding a miserable looking 
 "young one" of about ten, gaudily dressed ; learned he was to 
 be circumcised, a ceremony they still perform, but not until 
 attaining as many years as the Jews allow days. "We have one 
 of the usual so-oft-described sail-boats of the Nile, that travel 
 has induced these unprogressive people, from interest, to make so 
 comfortable. The coffee-grinding machine of our crew is like 
 the old fashioned samp mortars in size and arrangement. 
 
 Nile, Christmas^ 1851. — We have sailed and been towed 
 alternately against the downward current. Heard from a French 
 sugar manufacturer of the coiq^ d'etat at Paris. This morning 
 strained our eyes for some wanderer of the Stars and Stripes, or 
 Eed Cross, to help us to jollify the day, but in vain ; so we did 
 our best at M. Edward's (onr Arab cook) dinner, whose nonde- 
 script names and cookery would have crazed " Yattel's " brain. 
 Then drank to the health of our, " absent friends " and " noble 
 selves." 
 
 New Year's Day^ 1852. — Even duller than Christmas 
 
THE FIRST CATAEACT OF THE NILE. 81 
 
 Thebes, January Zd. — At last one of the great objects of our 
 voyage attained ; met some friends and took a donkey ride to 
 the ruins of Karnak, magnificently grand and beautiful as the full 
 moon threw her silver rays along massive columned halls, or 
 over crumbling shattered wall, obelisk, or sphinx. Had a guide 
 mounted and armed with long spear, for ruin gazing by midnight 
 is not very safe in these latitudes. 
 
 EsNE, bth January. — Stopped for the double purpose of pro- 
 visioning and seeing the famous Almeh dancers, who have been 
 banished to this place by the virtuous Egyptian government, 
 who, when the Yiceroy travels on the Nile, takes three steamers, 
 one for himself and suite, the other two for the harems of women 
 and boys. The dancing certainly is repulsively disgusting in its- 
 best form, not to speak of it in its variations, when they cater to 
 the low tastes of their visitors. 
 
 January Sth, Assouan. — (Head of the lower Nile and first 
 cataract.) Came in with flying colors after a sharp race of 
 twelve hours, with a smacking breeze, passing all the other boats. 
 Being the anniversary of the Battle of New Orleans, my friend's 
 flag has been flying all day. 
 
 Among the pleasant interchanges of civilities on the river, is 
 the saluting, by the ascending boat, every returning one, which 
 of course returns it, irrespective of nation. 
 
 January 11th. — Went up the cataract yesterday ; rowed, drag- 
 ged or pulled by fifty or sixty noisy, nude vagabonds. The 
 boatmen never overload themselves with clothes: last winter 
 a gentleman coming up with his wife and daughter, thought 
 one of his men displayed a paucity of clothing for even decency, 
 so gave him a pair of trowsers : — next morning he saw them con- 
 verted into a turban ! 
 
 The appearance of the country is now entirely changed',, 
 instead of low flat banks, rough rugged mountains. I beheve 
 
 6 
 
82 FRO:\I WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 I've not mentioned that the country is irrigated nine months in 
 the year, artificially, by water-wheels, which go night and day ; 
 thus their eternal squeaking furnishes poor travellers with their 
 evening "lullaby" and daily solace; you know "music hath 
 charms," etc. 
 
 January 17 tJi. — Wadee Halfeh (second cataract). Got here at 
 eleven this evening — with little to vary the monotony of being 
 towed and sailing, save a few shots at crocodiles, and daily 
 shooting on shore. 
 
 "O 
 
 ISth. — Visited the cataract — a long rapid. Saw two gazelles. 
 Crossed the river in a boat. The donkey boys lift their animals 
 forelegs in, and giving them a push behind, they necessarily jerk 
 the others in after to save a fall. 
 
 . A man brought us half a pint of peanuts to sell, his whole 
 stock in trade — an importer of these parts. 
 
 This afternoon started downward, when the boats usually 
 row or drift, the wind always being up stream. 
 
 January 26. — Philae, first cataract again, after eight hundred 
 miles. Arrived this morning, visiting, en route, the various 
 ruins and rock-cut temples of Aboo Simbul — Ibreeim — Derr — 
 Gerf Hassan — Kalabshee — Taphis, and others. 
 
 Having taught myself drawing while we were going up the 
 Nile, I made my first essay on our return, at the first temple, 
 and certainly under difficulties ; for with only self-taught know- 
 ledge, I endeavored to get the four walls, ceiling, and floor in my 
 sketch, and to help the difficulty, my Reis (boat captain) on his 
 knees kissing my feet and begging for backsheesh. My next trial 
 was at Aboo Simbul, where it was so close I nearly suffocated ; 
 and in their assiduity to gain favor and backsheesh, they nearly 
 burnt me up with their torches and sparks ; and with varied 
 adventures in that way, and usual experiences of Nile travellers. 
 
 One evening saluted a boat very close to us, which hailed us 
 
EETURN TO CAIEO, 83 
 
 in return, and gave an invitation to visit a ruin by torchlight. 
 Found tlic man a French savan sent out by his government. 
 He gave us, on parting, a letter to some friends in Thebes, who, 
 he said, would do the honors of the tombs. 
 
 Grot here at eight in the morning, the time they say the Prophet 
 decreed for going over the cataract — over we went. A grand 
 affair it is, often compared to the rapids of the St. Lawrence, 
 but infinitely superior. 
 
 Found lots of friends, among others Cathcart and Noel, whom 
 we parted with at Beirut. They had been to Palmyra, where they 
 were discovered by a wandering tribe, and after a barricade of 
 several days they escaped. 
 
 Cairo, February 17. — Eeturned this morning after a delightful 
 voyage of two months (and 1800 miles), having visited every- 
 thing of note or interest. We spent a week at Thebes, exploring 
 its massive ruins and sepulchral wonders. 
 
 Met a queer countryman from Michigan, who canied a beaver 
 for his flag ; told a friend of mine he was editor of two religious 
 papers, and travelling for dyspepsia, to cure which he lived on 
 cheese and onions. 
 
 lOlli. — Cairo is full of Americans and English, about equally 
 divided. To-day were invited to witness a grand bastinadoing ; 
 of the dignitaries of a village, for some quarrel a blustering 
 Tennessean had got himself into, in which his servant was shot 
 and he somewhat injured ; when, of course^ the natives were to 
 blame (our people never are !) 
 
 24<A. — We have had our heads shaved, and I take it the sig- 
 nificant Texas phrase, "his hair is too long," (meaning a fellow 
 who wears long hair to hide the remains of his ears, clipped for 
 hog-stealing), won't apply to us for some months. My friends 
 hardly knew whether to laugh or cry at this novel "fix." 
 
 Taking an adieu of our Consul, met two members of the Cairo 
 
84 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 " bar," — a young Arab, and a drunken Englishman, We started, 
 a grand cavalcade, two tents, ten camels, four drivers, and four 
 servants; our camels with loads of ourselves, kegs of water, 
 wicker coops of chicks, turkeys, and panniers of provender — " eat" 
 and " drink." Our whole train and parties had fifteen servants, 
 fifty-two camel drivers, and sixty-eight camels. As we came out 
 of Cairo, saw some Egyptian soldiers on guard who were knit- 
 ting; wonder what the Emperor Nicholas, Duke of Wellington, 
 or our distinguished Commander-in-Chief, — "Fuss and 
 Feathers" (to use the sobriquet of the "Point" cadets) would 
 say ? You see we travel luxuriously, for as a friend observed, 
 who was joked on his comfortable high-post bedstead, " the camel 
 carries it," and so we say of our luxuries. 
 
 "Wells of Moses," February 28th. — Started the afternoon 
 of the 24th, my friend persuading me to let the quarrelsome 
 Tennessean and his " unlicked cub" of a protege join us, to 
 reduce expense, and " I reckon " he has found they are not up to 
 " musta." Four-fifths of his words are oaths ; fingers and table 
 napkins his mouchoir. So you may realize the agreeable com- 
 panionship to my courtly compagnon de voyage. 
 
 The journey from Cairo, pleasant, passing the Eagged Tree (a 
 tree where each returning Mecca pilgrim deposits a rag). 
 
 Robinson's and Smith's book on the Holy Land, our text-book 
 of travel (as well as that of all travellers) ; I quite agree with 
 them as to the place where the Eed Sea was crossed by the 
 Israelites. 
 
 Mount Sinai, March bth. — Reached this place this afternoon, 
 putting up for the night at the convent (St. Catharine's) — found 
 several friends here. On our way from Suez and Wells of Moses 
 stopped at the " Waters of Marah," — they are still bitter (bitter 
 means brackish). Encamped near the " Wells of Elim." Passed 
 through Waddy LIukattid (the supposed route of the Israelites). 
 
 There are many inscriptions on the rocks here, that very much 
 
JEBEL MUSA. 85 
 
 puzzle antiquarians. Then on by Mount Tubal, whicli some sup- 
 pose to be the " Sinai " of the Scriptures. And this afternoon, 
 Waddy-er-Rahab, Robinson's " Plain of the Law-Giving." A 
 plain about two and a-half miles long, by three-quarters broad. 
 
 March 6th {The Jewish Sunday). — This morning we ascended 
 " Jebel Musa " in the rear of the convent. It is the Sinai of the 
 monks. We had a priest for guide ; passed several fountains of 
 Moses, also chapels, at each of the latter he stopped to mumble a 
 prayer. Near the top is a crevice in the rock, where we saw an 
 amusing pantomime by one of our Arab boys, who was bringing 
 provisions, etc. He wished to explain that it was the place where 
 Moses hid himself when the Almighty passed by. He crouched 
 under, and pressing himself as tightly as possible against the 
 sides, looked out of the corner of his eye to the sky, and whis- 
 pered, " Allah! " This mountain peak is by many thought to 
 be Sinai, though Robinson says the other, or western end, is, 
 which is very much more likely. Then we descended from the 
 peak, continuing along the summit of the mountain to the other 
 extremity — Es-Sufsafeh or Robinson's Sinai. He calls the range 
 Horeb, and this peak Sinai, 
 
 On our descent, passed the rock Moses is said to have struck 
 for water. Our tents having been put up we did not return to 
 the convent. 
 
 March 7th. — Went up to the convent to see the service, then 
 the "burning bush," where we, in imitation of Moses, were 
 obliged to unshoe. It is covered with a silver grating. It is 
 not a bush, but a vine, and as it dies away in the autumn, very 
 little is left ; it's the " Simon Pure" and no mistake, so believe 
 it, unless you desire to be considered a heathen, Turk, or infidel. 
 Then Jethro's well, where Moses' gallantry got him a wife. The 
 waters are now used for distilling arrack, for which these good 
 fathers have rather a weakness, judging from the ocular proof 
 I had. 
 
86 FKOM WALL STKEET TQ CASHMERE. 
 
 They make a date cheese, composed of dates and almonds. 
 The library has two thousand volumes, mostly Greek and Latin. 
 They have a curious way of arranging the dead bodies of the 
 monks ; after the flesh is decomposed, they put the skulls in one 
 place, and the bones in other places, each kind by itself. 
 
 March 8lh. — I have just returned from sketching the convent 
 and Sinai ; our delectable Tennessean is back from his ascent of 
 Mt. St. Catharine, half dead with fatigue, as are the Englishmen 
 who accompanied ; we shall start to-morrow morning, and they 
 will miss ascending Sinai. We are a charming invahded party ; 
 besides those " dead beat" from their mountain ascent, our "un- 
 licked cub " of the "West has been sick ever since starting ; and 
 I have a sprained thumb by way of eking out the " kilts." One 
 man, in another party, has a gouty foot he contrived to get 
 mashed by a donkey in Cairo, while all the rest have teethache 
 or colds, including " the beauty from Cork," a very nice Irish 
 lady, wife of one of the travellers. Another is sick from too long 
 exposure when we all took a " dip" in the Eed Sea at the " de- 
 sert of sin." 
 
 Last night was terribly cold, the water as it oozed from the 
 leathern buckets froze. On rising this morning found snow 
 under the edge of my tent. 
 
 The convent is situated midway up a narrow defile between 
 two valleys ; it is a curious medley of buildings, and built in 
 the time of Justinian, half fortress, half house, and has seen 
 many troublous times. Dr. Eobinson makes the ancient Rephi- 
 dim, W'here " Amalek came and fought with Israel," to be very 
 near this. These mountains were the refuge of early Egyptian 
 Christians. 
 
 Akabah, March 14:th. — Left Mt. Sinai for this place the 10th. 
 Yarious members of the party pairing off, always walk several 
 hours, first collecting gum arable, then along the shore of the 
 Gulf of Akabah, with lovely views. We have picked up much 
 

PREPARING FOR ANOTHER START. 87 
 
 coral (red and white) and beautiful sliells. Among our amuse- 
 ments or pets, two sheep, part of our live stock, who walk the 
 marches until we require their presence on the table, after which 
 we have to carry them. Near the present Akabah stood Ezion- 
 Geber, one of Solomon's ports on the Eed Sea. "We have just 
 had a visit from the Governor, a forlorn-looking old Turk ; and 
 Sheik Hassein, the head of the Arabs here ; a very dignified old 
 villain. 
 
 There is a question of backsheesh among the Arabs, in dis- 
 pute, that will probably prevent our starting for several days, 
 until they arrange it among themselves. The old Governor's 
 wife, a yellow Abyssinian woman, has been to call upon our 
 lady traveller this afternoon. 
 
 17^/?. — To-day Sheik Hassein's brother arrived with the pre- 
 sent Sheik of Petra, and his father Abu Zeitan (Father of 
 Olives), so we have nicknamed the son, " The Olive S^Drig." 
 
 This evening after they had had a long "pow-wow" around 
 the camp-fire, with "fierce debate," reminding one of the witches 
 in Macbeth, they adjourned it to our tent, it being the largest, 
 and made an amusing scene. Old Hassein, at the entrance, in 
 close conference with three dragomen ; we (the members of the 
 various parties) sitting on beds or trunks, in all sorts of cos- 
 tumes, from crazy in his fine military undress, a compro- 
 mise of every division in the army (to none of which he was 
 entitled), down to the very lowest grade of desert costume, with 
 moustache and whiskers to match. In the midst of the conference 
 between the Sheik and dragomen (who were working to cheat 
 the Sheik of Petra), he very coolly marched in, pipe in hand, 
 and as coolly surveying the party quietly took a seat, to the 
 great annoyance of old Hassein, a regular Paul Pry, — " hope I 
 don't intrude" scene ; however we are to start to-morrow. 
 
 Petra, March 22d.~We were off the 18th, m confusion and 
 uproar with our new, wild camels, and sundry damages to 
 
88 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 liquor and crockery by their summarily relieving themselves of 
 their loads. Of mishaps to riders, my compagnon de voyage^ sel' 
 fislthj monopolized them all; first, his camel sprung up, leaving 
 him hanging by one foot in the stirrup, and holding on to the 
 horns of the saddle, till the brute could take a prance for a 
 minute or so, then getting composed let matters be comfortably 
 arranged, when we all started off. Suddenly I heard, " Ugh ! ugh !" 
 looking around saw him again in trouble, making a "spread 
 eagle" of himself as he took a summerset over his camel's head, 
 while the beast was apparently trying how high he could get 
 his hind feet in the air when going at full speed ; coats, cushions, 
 rugs, umbrellas, books, and all the varied ei ceieras of our camel 
 " fixins" were flying in all directions. "We soon had the brute 
 stopped. His rider (who luckily had sustained no injury) with 
 traps on his back, and all off again respectably. 
 
 Continued on ; the afternoon of the fourth day ascended to Mt. 
 Hor and top of Aaron's tomb, erected by the Mussulmen ; on 
 into the valley of these mountains passing varieties of fagades of 
 tombs of freestone, in every tint. At last pitched our tents in 
 the middle of Petra, the capital of Lower Idumea. The pro- 
 phecy of, " Thou shalt be desolate, O Mount Seir, and all Idu- 
 mea," is as literally fulfilled here as in the Philistine cities of 
 Ekron, Askalon, etc., in Palestine. 
 
 Yesterday had some little trouble to find a clear place to 
 pitch our tent, as under every stone is at least one scorpion, and 
 often two or three. In the night were awoke by some firing. I 
 consulted with my friend, and we concluded it was safer to keep 
 still in bed until the danger came nearer, as our tent was not 
 supposed to be proof against stray balls, and no glory in dying 
 under such circumstances, besides not seeing Petra after all our 
 rtrouble. 
 
 This morning found that a strange tribe had seen our camp- 
 fires, and coming too close, had been fired into by our Arabs, 
 -of whom we have a host — about one hundred. After breakfast 
 with guide (for no one is safe from wandering Arabs without 
 
PnARAOn's CASTLE. 89 
 
 one, he being the visible certificate of the sheik's protection), 
 our little party ascended some hundreds of feet to the "El 
 Dhir." An exquisite fagade, the architecture of Eome in its 
 later days, facing on an open, grassy plot of about two acres; 
 the name signifies convent, but it was one of the many fine 
 tombs of Petra in its "palmy days," when they appear to have 
 made more liberal provision for the dead than the living. The 
 interior is very rough, consisting of only two or three rooms on 
 the first floor, though the fagade exhibits two stories. 
 
 Then the "Khusne:" passing an old ruin on a high isolated 
 peak called " Pharaoh's Castle," a triumphal arch near our tents, 
 a small theatre — seats cut in the rock, and on through a narrow 
 ravine for several hundred yards. In a small lateral one was the 
 " Khusne," an exquisite fagade, and flattering monument to the 
 taste and skill of a nation who have passed away like a dream, 
 without even a record in history, other than at one time Petra 
 was the great centre of all the commerce in this part of the 
 world. Now it is a desolation in the fullest sense of the term ; 
 not even an Arab dwells among its ruins. This, like "El 
 Dhir," has probably been a tomb, as the arrangements are the 
 same, though its architecture more elaborate; its name means 
 Treasur}^ The Arabs, supposing there was gold in a stone urn 
 over one of the entrances to the door, have discharged any number 
 of bullets at it, hoping to break it and scatter a shower of the 
 precious metal, as there is no other way for them to reach it. 
 
 In one of the rooms I saw the names of Irby and Mangles, 
 1818, Stephens, Eobertson, and Smith; Burkhardt's name is 
 said to be here. He was in the place about five or six hours, and 
 only succeeded in getting here as a pilgrim from Morocco to the 
 tomb of Aaron, — but his close observance of the place and its 
 ruins excited the suspicions of the Arabs (they are ever sus- 
 picious in regard to Petra, which, except Palmyra, is the most 
 difficult place to visit in this part of the East), who showed him 
 the "bee-line" out; yet he has written the best description of 
 the place, notwithstanding his brief visit. 
 
90 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 The rocks arc of sandstone, with every shade of blue, red, 
 grey, cream, purple and brown. Steps originally led in every 
 direction over the rocks, but time and rain have washed them 
 away, and hollowed the rocks into most fantastic shapes. 
 
 Continuing on through the larger ravine, which in many 
 places is not above fifteen to twenty feet wide, and in none 
 more than eighty, with walls of ragged rock, like those of huge 
 fissures, rising from two to four hundred feet; came to the arch 
 called "Sikh," — perhaps a gate formerly. 
 
 On either side of this passage or ravine, once a street, judging 
 from the large flag and pavement — on either side are earthen 
 pipes for supplying the city with water, or to furnish an exit for 
 its superfluity. 
 
 Following the street we soon reached the entrance, and in wan- 
 dering about saw a very large tunnel, three or four hundred feet 
 long, cut in the rock. Mr. Marsh found it last year in the same 
 way and thought he was the discoverer, from never having heard 
 of it before. 
 
 23cZ. — To-day have been sketching "El Dhir," "Corinthian 
 Tombs" (a fine fagade of consecutive tombs), " Khusne," and 
 "Sikh," It is most singular how Petra ever was selected as the 
 site of a city, when so difiicult of access. 
 
 This morning saw a camel-branding operation ; the feet of the 
 brute are tied so he cannot move, while the more brute biped 
 owner, with a burning brand, makes a chequer-board, or some 
 equally tedious device on the belly of the animal, burning 
 throu2;h the skin. I was dressinsr at the time, and hearing the 
 frantic moans of the camel, looked out. 
 
 Ilih. — Started again the 24th, after w^e had all satisfied our 
 curiosity : — and some had made blurred photographs, and I about 
 equally bad sketches. 
 
 The next day, while we had stopped for our luggage to come 
 up, as we saw a party of Arabs in the distance, my rotund little 
 
AN ALARM FROM ARABS. 91 
 
 companion had an awful back summerset from his camel, falling 
 head foremost on a hard gravelly spot, luckily striking the front 
 instead of the back of his head, or he -would have been instantly 
 killed: and as it is, he is in very great pain, momentarily 
 increased by the oscillating motion of the body consequent on the 
 long rolling gait of the camel. 
 
 Hebron, March 28. — A few days since, crossed a slippery 
 mountain, rising at an angle of about forty -five degrees. While 
 we were slipping and sliding, the camels, with their soft spongy 
 feet, clambered up with great ease. 
 
 Night before last told Ali, our smiling Syrian waiter, to wake 
 me at four for an early start ; he asked for my watch, so I 
 explained and marked the hour with my pencil. This morning 
 he came in grinning as usual (fancying it the j oiliest fun in the 
 world to rout us up at midnight), watch and candle in hand, 
 exclaiming, "quatre heure. Monsieur Irian d, quatre heure." 
 Looking at the watch I saw it was only three, so sent him off 
 with a threat to shoot him if he dared show his face again one 
 minute before four. 
 
 Yesterday saw great numbers of cranes as we reached the 
 green pastures and "flowery meads," which mark the approach 
 to Hebron. 
 
 Had an alarm from Arabs ; a small tribe owning this part of 
 the desert claim the right of escorting us across to Hebron to the 
 exclusion of the others. So each body halted, and while the 
 leading dragomen and sheiks were holding consultation, we were 
 getting our revolvers, guns, and rifles ready, and our Arab escort 
 priming their guns and lighting the matches. Our Syrian cooks 
 and waiters " waxed valorous," seized the iron-pointed lantern 
 stakes, like Paddy and his shillelah at Donnybrook Fair, with a 
 good "scrimmage" in prospective, and they fiercely flourished them 
 as if " on deeds of valor bent." As my travelling companion was 
 an invalid and could not fight, I tried to persuade him to try his 
 latent musical genius (he could not tell a jig from a dead march), 
 
92 FROM "WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 and excite our American ardor by whistling "Yankee Doodle," 
 feeling sure his fellow invalid, with the gouty foot, would try 
 " God save the Queen" for our " cousins." The most valorous 
 men of our party were Otley (a very good fellow if not troubled 
 with a crazy military mania, and we all dub him the " Green- 
 brook Volunteer"), in his conglomeration of uniform (Turkish 
 fez and turban, artillery undress coat (blue), infantry waistcoat 
 (scarlet), walking trowsers, shooting shoes, surgeon's sword, 
 revolver in his belt, Bible tucked in his waistcoat, and cocked 
 rifle in hand, reminding one of Cromwell's injunction to his 
 troops, " trust in the Lord hut keep your powder dry," and the 
 Irish traveller's black cook, who, with an apology for a turban 
 on his woolly pate, an immense dress coat, the skirts of which 
 trail at his feet, and with this a pair of Turkish bag trowsers and 
 bare feet, probably for better expedition, on Hudibras' prin- 
 ciple, " he who fights and runs away," etc. 
 
 All last night we were kept awake by the Arabs holding 
 "watch and ward" against the tribes we had met in the after- 
 noon. All yesterday and to-day we have been marching over 
 grassy fields, studded with myriads of wild flowers, the country 
 undulating, and thousands of sheep, in the biblical language of 
 our western paragon (such people deal in extremes of good and 
 bad), reminding him of " the sheep on a thousand hills." 
 
 As w^e came in sight of Hebron, the country became more 
 rocky. Saw about thirty teams of yearlings working with most 
 primitive ploughs, though somewhat better than those in Egypt. 
 About two miles from Hebron the Quarantine guards stopped 
 us, and tried to get us in some kind of compactness, but 
 looked the picture of despair at our refractory conduct. We 
 passed a large reservoir, surrounded by idlers — a gossiping 
 " exchange." The people seemed very merry at our approaching 
 captivity, — we laughed at them in return. Then reached the 
 formidable building where we are quietl}' to rest until three days 
 are over, and all impurities engendered by forty days of camel 
 riding in the Desert have had time to dissipate. It is likely to 
 
Skctcbud by the Author 
 
 JEWS' PLACE OF WAILING. JERUSALEM. 
 
 See page 94. 
 
IN QUARANTINE. 93 
 
 be a horrid bore, our party so numerous; we were four, and 
 baggage, to a room only twelve feet square ; cold weather, 
 damp walls, and our only fire a brazier with charcoal. But I 
 kicked up such a " row " they gave me another room, and the 
 other parties following the example, our grievances are somewhat 
 moderated. 
 
 After a furious uproar from unloading seventy camels, groan- 
 ing and bellowing, with a dozen little ones crying for their 
 "mamas," and fifty or sixty quarrelsome Arabs yelling and 
 fighting, with our own servants adding their "mite" of importance 
 to the general confusion, with the various orders and directions 
 of Quarantine officials, and ourselves in a medley of English, 
 French, German, Italian, Turkish, and Arabic, for the space of 
 nearly two hours, in a small court fifty feet by a hundred, pro- 
 ducinsc a most inconceivable Babel. We were at last rid of this 
 much of our plagues, sincerely hoping it to be our last trial in 
 that form. I think we all breathed freer when the gates were 
 closed on the last camel and his driver. 
 
 Thanks to our purchases, my compagnon de voyage and self 
 are decidedly the most comfortable of the party in our new 
 quarters, as we were in the desert in our large tent. 
 
 My invalid friend is better to-night, though he groans fear- 
 fully as our Western man's big blackey rubs him, occasionally 
 having him by the head, " taking him to London town to see 
 his grandfather," and from his weight, he will be in a fair way 
 to stay and see the rest of his relations if he goes very often. 
 
 Hebron, March 28th. — To-day been trying to " drive away 
 dull care" by all sorts of expedients, reading, writing, talking, 
 and walking up and down our little balcon}^ But we cannot 
 keep still five minutes ; even our surviving chickens partake of 
 this feeling, and have cackled and crowed ever since they 
 arrived, though one would suppose that they, at least, would wish 
 to rest after their multitudinous summersets in camel experience. 
 
 This afternoon, got up some target-practice at a wall about 
 
94 FEOM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 twenty feet from the smoking "boudoir" of the governor, me- 
 dico, and other officials, who were preciously disturbed by this 
 specimen of miniature platoon firing from our various revolvers : 
 so after a long discussion of " pros and cons," found we must 
 give up this and try some more quiet amusement. 
 
 March 31s^, — Doctor reported us all well, and let us out for a 
 run in the hills back of the quarantine like a flock of sheep. 
 
 Jerusalem, April Ist^ 1852, — Our dragomen were all off at 
 daylight this morning, in a sort of steeple-chase, for best rooms 
 at Jerusalem for their parties. 
 
 We trotted around Hebron first; saw the clay from which 
 the lump was taken to make Adam ! and the place where Cain 
 slew Abel ! Then by the terabinth (a species of oak) tree of 
 Abraham ! — but really where it is supposed many of the Jews 
 were brought, after the final destruction of Jerusalem by Ha- 
 drian, and sold as slaves. The tree has every appearance of 
 being old, is large, and of great diameter. 
 
 The tomb of Abraham is venerated by the Mussulmen (as are 
 all of our prophets, only they make an inferior prophet of the 
 " Saviour," putting Mohammed in his place), so no Christians 
 could enter its sacred precincts. 
 
 Passed a man with a miserable yearling bullock and donkey 
 yoked together; and by the valley of Eschol, and "pools of 
 Solomon," and " Eachel's tomb," on to Bethlehem, on the brow 
 of a high hill, and Jerusalem, imposing in the distance, entering 
 by the " Yaffa gate" and "Tower of Hippius," a relic of its 
 pristine importance. 
 
 Visited Dr. Barclay, who "hails from" Virginia; he endea- 
 vors to perform gratuitous cure of soul as well as body. 
 
 We have been most industriously employed in visiting the 
 various sights. "Jews' Place of Wailing," a melancholy spec- 
 tacle, "Pool of Hezekiah," " Coenaculum," " Tower of Hippius," 
 "Church of the Holy Sepulchre," which now during the 
 
THE SIGHTS OF JERUSALEM. 95 
 
 "Easter fetes " is a regular bazaar of carved shells (witli crucifix 
 or "Last Supper") rosaries, crosses, etc., for Christian or traveller 
 (who is supposed to be heathen). "Tomb of Joseph of Ari- 
 mathea," " Gethsemane," "where Stephen was martyred, " Mount 
 of Olives," hole in the pavement where Lazarus fed in front of 
 "Dives' house." Tree on the ascent of Mount of Olives, 
 whose leaves the Prodigal Son fed on, the husks being a poetical 
 licence. The "Ecce Homo" house and arch, " Yallejs of 
 ffinmim and Jehosaphat," "Hill of Evil Counsel," where Solo- 
 mon kept his Sidonian wife, ""Well of Job," "Pool of Siloam," 
 " Tombs of James and Zazariah " and " Column of Absalom," 
 all in valley of Jehoshaphat. Saw the stone on the corner of 
 the city wall, and also the old temple wall, where the Mohamme- 
 dans say Christ will sit at the day of judgment over the people, 
 who will be in the valley of Jehoshaphat. Near this, the valley 
 of Gehenna, assigned as the place of Tophet, and where the Jews 
 practised the rites of Baal and Moloch — beyond Aceldama or 
 Field of Blood. Then the Golden Gate, through which Christ 
 made his triumphant entry previous to the "Last Supper." The 
 " Lower Gishon Pool " and " Tombs of the Kings " and " Tombs 
 of the Prophets." " Grotto of Jeremiah," "Tomb of Lazarus," 
 at Bethany, " Pilate's House," and the place where " The 
 Saviour" was put the night before his crucifixion, when 
 he had been arrested. 
 
 April 7th. — To-day we returned from seeing the pilgrims 
 bathe in the Jordan. They leave the city at twelve o'clock 
 the Monday night before Easter Sunday. As we went out of 
 the city day before yesterday, saw a Mohammedan procession 
 going to the "Tomb of Moses," which these "wiseacres" have 
 discovered, though the Bible, in its ignorance, says "no man 
 knoweth where it is to this day." There were great numbers of 
 women at the gates as we came out, with their white sheets 
 thrown around them, but so arranged as to leave many a pretty 
 face visible. 
 
96 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 The road being as unsafe as in the days of the "Good 
 Samaritan" we employed an Arab sheik. Camped on the plains 
 of Jericho ; visited the modern Jericho. The site of the ancient 
 city is unknown. 
 
 The camp scene was most amusing. The patches on the 
 trowsers of the guards would put to the blush the military 
 economy of any nation in Europe. 
 
 Yesterday morning about half-past two, were in the saddle 
 and off for the Jordan after the pilgrims. The sight was won- 
 derfully picturesque and wild ; thousands of Greek pilgrims in 
 two bodies, about three and five thousand, witli their torches and 
 frantic singing. Arab sheiks galloping and curvetting their 
 steeds, with long spears quivering, and "dirty picturesque" 
 robes ; the whole scene brilliantly illuminated by the burning 
 plain, kindled by the pilgrims in their wild frenzy. 
 
 "We went on ahead, got our " dip, " filled our bottles for the 
 benefit of future progeny, and got a position, where we saw 
 the first wild rush, and then the carefully deliberate, who put on 
 the long white gown, like tlie Millerite " ascension robes," dipped 
 three times, then carefully folded the gown, to be kept till their 
 burial, — a passport " en regie'''' to heaven. Then rode to the Dead 
 Sea, where took a fine " swim." The day was warm, and a slight 
 surf rolled lazily in. The specific gravity of the water is so 
 great it is almost impossible to keep your feet low enough to 
 swim. The water possesses mineral properties, painfully dis- 
 agreeable to eyes, nose, and mouth ; the bather's body looks, when 
 dried, as if rubbed witb oil. 
 
 We spent last night on the plains, and returned to the city 
 this morning, passing several pilgrims who had been wounded 
 by the Arab robbers. 
 
 Qth. — This morning, Mar-Saba, a celebrated convent, near the 
 Dead Sea, and the wilderness where Saul and David, in their 
 troubles, played "hide and go seek." 
 
 This afternoon, the " miserere service," in the church of the 
 
^k^t<■llpll by llic Aiitlinr. 
 
 liUINS I'F Till". nilT.rif OF ST. JOHN. DAMASCLT.-^. 
 
 See paito 9S». 
 
CALVARY. 97 
 
 "Holy Sepulclire," by tlie Latin patriarch. But were disturbed 
 by noisy boys, probably paid by tbe Greeks, though they deny 
 the imputation. But the animosity is so great, that a few years 
 since, when the Latins got a firman to make repairs in the church 
 at Bethlehem, the Greeks procured another to remove them. 
 They work through the Eussians ; the Latins, through the 
 French; and the Armenians, through " Plutus' " potent influence. 
 
 In the midst of the ceremony, some of the Greek women, 
 pilgrims (who live in the church in a kind of gallerj^, about nine 
 feet high, separating the Greek chapel from the rotunda, in which 
 stands the Holy Sepulchre, a beautiful white marble temple, 
 about twelve feet wide, by twenty feet deep), were moving about, 
 some of them drinking water out of the sj)out of a large tea-ket- 
 tle, exciting the risibles of us all, since they were also operating 
 directly over the Patriarch's head. 
 
 In the evening, the crucifixion service, — when we marched 
 from the Latin chapel, each with tapers. They have twelve 
 stations: at each a sermon is preached in a different language; 
 the whole procession moves between a double file of Turkish 
 soldiers with fixed bayonets ! 
 
 On Calvary (the church being supposed to include Calvary, 
 which is in the gallery), where the body, a wax figure, borne by 
 the priests, from the chapel, is nailed to the cross, which is then 
 erected (the Greeks say He was raised to the cross and crucified ; 
 the Latins, that the cross lay on the ground when it was done, 
 and then raised with Him on it), the sermon preached, then the 
 nails knocked out and body taken down from the cross. One 
 of the most repulsive sights imaginable! The body is then 
 carried down stairs, anointed, and buried, and at each of these 
 stages another sermon. The lights of the church are now put 
 out, and not lit again by the Latins until Easter Sunday. 
 
 Saturday is the great day with the Greeks, — by some calculation 
 they arrive at the conclusion that this, and not the next day, is 
 Easter, when the church is a perfect Babel. The Greeks fill 
 every part, each with a large wax taper or a bunch of small ones. 
 
 7 
 
08 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 The "fire from Ilcaven," to rc-liglit the world, comes down to 
 the " Iloly Sepulchre," at precisely two o'clock on every year I 
 when some priests who are there for the purpose, receive it, and 
 from it light the candles of the crowd. The church was filled 
 about ten, w^hen a grand "row " and stabbing affair getting up, 
 the soldiers, with fixed bayonets, marched in and tried to keep 
 order. Then followed shouting, singing, and fisticuff" fights. 
 
 In two minutes after the first candle was lit, the whole church 
 was ablaze. Their blood warmed with the excitement, the sol- 
 diers gone, and the tapers making good clubs, at it they went 
 again, on the principle of the shillelah practice, " hit every head 
 you see." This afternoon my travelling friend asked Ach- 
 met (our dragoman) if he was busy : " Yes, sir, I am going to 
 the mosque to say my prayers ; I have been so busy since I left 
 Beirut I have not had time!" Only six months, with nine 
 weeks of it repose on the Nile ! 
 
 I have got any quantity of crosses and rosaries, blessed by 
 the Patriarch, and been in and on every sacred place : — so when 
 you get them, if they don't "put you through straight" it is 
 because you are "predestined" to go somewhere else. 
 
 I have visited repeatedly all the churches, and gazed on the 
 city from Mount Olivet (where, by-the-way, is a foot-print made 
 in a piece of marble by the Saviour when he ascended), and the 
 Mosque of Omar, conspicuous on the foundations of the old 
 temple, besides making a sketch of the whole scene. Now I 
 ■am off" for Damascus. 
 
 A2:)ril IZth. — Nabalus (Sichem). — Started yesterday from 
 Jerusalem, stopping on the way to see the curiously historic church 
 of the Georgians, a short distance from the walls, where they 
 were allowed to come in full armor, with banners flying, until 
 about two hundred years ago. Passed by or near Mizpeh, so 
 celebrated in biblical history ; Anathoth ; Gibeah, of Benjamin ; 
 Gibeon, where " the sun stood still and the moon stayed," and 
 ■celebrated in the history of David, Solomon, etc. Then Ramah, 
 
DAMASCUS. 99 
 
 Miclimash, Bethel, and the mountains of the " Blessing and 
 Cursing," Gerizim and Ebal. Saw a Pentateuch at this place 
 said to have come down from Abishua, the son of Phineas, 3460 
 years old ! 
 
 April loth. — Nazareth. — Yesterday stopped to see the ruins 
 of Sebaste (Samaria) and the colonnade built by Herod tiie Great. 
 
 To-day been marching through the plain of Esdrelon, passing 
 Mount Gilboah, plain of Jezreel and Little Hermon, near which 
 the " witch of Endor" dwelt; Shunem and Megiddo, celebrated 
 for the miracles, battles, or misdeeds of Elisha, Gideon, Barak, 
 and Ahab in ancient days ; and in more modern ones, for those 
 of crusaders and French. At Nazareth the house and et ceteras 
 of Joseph shown, besides other wonders. 
 
 IQth. — Tiberias. — To-day ascended Mount Tabor, the sup- 
 posed scene of the " transfiguration." " Cana of Galilee " is in 
 the distance, while we took the route to Tiberias, passing over 
 " Tell Hattin" that decided the fate of the crusaders in Palestine. 
 The city is small ; and the lake about ten miles by three. 
 
 IQUi. — " Jacob's Bridge." — Yesterday passed by Bethsaida, 
 the city of Andrew, Peter, and Philip, and to-night encamp on 
 the borders of the Jordan, a narrow stream of a few feet, but 
 very swift. 
 
 Damascus, April 20. — Arrived this morning. Yesterday and 
 day before passing over a Roman road, and near the old Roman 
 town of Arbana. We came in at daylight, not an object moving 
 to disturb the harmony of the scene ; even the bulbul, with whose 
 " matin" we commence our morning march, had not left his nest. 
 
 21st and 22d. — Seen all our missionaries, — several from my 
 own state. They showed us the street called Straight," " House 
 of Ananias," and the fine ruins of the ancient Christian church, 
 now built around by Turkish houses, on the top of which I went 
 to sketch them. 
 
100 FROM WALL STEEET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 23c?, Baalbec. — Yesterday passed tlie Eoman town of Arbela, 
 and the tablets of Marcus Aurelius Antoninus wliich are still 
 legible. This afternoon have been exploring and sketching 
 these wonderful and beautiful ruins. Many of the stones in the 
 walls arc sixty feet long by twelve feet square, actual measure- 
 ment. 
 
 Beiri^t, April 25. — The delectable western part of our 
 party, or rather the well one, has a passion for electric speed, and 
 " doing a place" (" par exemple," seeing Eome in two days) ; for 
 his protege cares for no body or thing but the black servant and 
 donkeys; "birds of a feather," etc. We find Drs. Smith, and 
 Robinson, whose book has been our perpetual " vade mecum" 
 since leaving Beiriit, nearly seven months ago, have gone to 
 Jerusalem to prosecute further researches. 
 
 Mmj 15, Marseilles. — Steamed via Alexandria and Malta to 
 this place. We did not go ashore, — merely saw St. Elmo from 
 the ship. 
 
 19^A. — This morning Rochefaveur, the magnificent aqueduct. 
 It connects two spurs of a mountain, is 1250 feet long by 262 
 high, in three tiers of arches. 
 
 Perpignan, May 22. — Stopping to see the beautiful Roman 
 ruins at Nismes (maison de carree, baths, and amphitheatre), 
 Montpelier, and Bergi^res, celebrated for the massacres of the 
 Albigenses in 1209. 
 
 Barcelona, 24i/t. — Crossed the Pyrenees through magnificent 
 scenery, and via Gerona to this place, and had our first expe- 
 rience in Spanish diligence, with nine and ten horses in pairs, no 
 lines to any but the leaders, stopping them by pulling, like 
 "hauling in" a ship's cable. Very often on the leader a pos- 
 tillion, a little imp with turban, blouse, legs and arms flying like 
 a "dancing jack," while the driver and assistant in dark velve- 
 

 l._< .'_: ^__:. ^.^ -^-r— r~ -T* i I 
 
 
 Sketclied by tlic Autlior. 
 
 RUINS OF BAALBEC 
 
 See page 100. 
 
RAMBLE THPOUGH SPAIN. 101 
 
 teens, resplendent witli bright buttons, were whooping, shouting, 
 cutting and slashing, the diligence creaking and groaning as it 
 bounded from stone to stone, while we were tossed about the 
 coupe, blinded and choked with dust, wishing our lives insured, 
 or ourselves somewhere else. This place is celebrated for its fine 
 fortress and large opera house. To-morrow by sea down the 
 coast. 
 
 2Qth. — Valencia a bright, curious place. Saw the house of 
 "The Cid," and roofs covered with "azulejos" (colored tile). 
 Continue on bj sea this afternoon. 
 
 28^/i, Malaga. — The town very ancient, with Moorish remains. 
 Saw numbers of pretty "blondes" walking in the "Alameda" 
 this afternoon. 
 
 May 31. — Granada by saddle, via Velez, Malaga, and Alhama. 
 Visited all the wonders of this lovely place, a Moorish paradise, 
 its court of lions and other beauties, the exquisite tombs of 
 Ferdinand and Isabella. 
 
 Gibraltar, June 6th. — Via Loja, Campillos, and Ronda, 
 riding over plains and wild mountain routes. Visited the fortress. 
 
 June lOih, Cadiz. — Came by steamer. To-day, saw the Cor- 
 pus Christi services ; and a miniature bull fight. 
 
 12th, Seville. — ^Yesterday on here, via the famed Guadal- 
 quiver, like the Nile, except very winding. There are many 
 curious remains of the Moors. Alcazar and private houses with 
 quadrangles or patios, as at Damascus. The cathedral is magni- 
 ficent. The Murillos very numerous and fine. The treasury of 
 the church immensely valuable in plate and jewelry ; by good 
 luck I was allowed to see and handle it all. 
 
 17ih, Cordova. — Last night started for Madrid by post. 
 
102 FROM WALL STREET TO CASUMERE. 
 
 Stopped here to-day to sec the wonderful Cathedral with its 
 854 pillars. It lias been very prolific in great men, and was 
 the Moorish Athens in its " palmy days." 
 
 June 19th, Madrid. — This morning reached this, via La 
 Mancha, celebrated in Don Quixote, and Aranjuez, the royal 
 country scat. 
 
 June 2olh. — Visited the beautiful gallery, one of the finest in 
 Europe. Seen Murillo's celebrated Santa Isabel, of Hungary, 
 applying Eemedies to the Diseased, ranking with Eaphael's 
 Transfiguration. The Palace, celebrated for its charming situa- 
 tion. Prado. — Bull fights, disgusting spectacles. Chiclanaro 
 (nephew of the celebrated Montes) was there to display his skill. 
 
 Toledo and its famed Cathedral. 
 
 June 27th, Segovia. — Stopping at the Escurial and La 
 Granja. The Escurial, immense in size, devoid of beauty or 
 attraction, except historical. La Grranja, pretty and wild; the 
 fountains in the royal grounds, very fine. Here, a Fair day. 
 The Roman aqueduct is grand. The Alcazar, a Moorish relic, is 
 curious. Now, a Military College. Gipsies were in numbers at 
 the Fair, the women in red or yellow flannel skirts. 
 
 July 1st, Burgos. — Making a detour, visited Valladolid, nearly 
 ruined by the French ; has a few interesting remains. This 
 place is celebrated for the repulse of the " Duke ;" its fine cathe- 
 dral; sundry minor churches; and wonderful tomb of the 
 father (Juan II.), mother, and brother of Isabella, much injured 
 by the French soldiers. 
 
 Juli/ bih, Bayonne. — ^Yia the Basque Provinces, through 
 beautiful scenery. This is the frontier town of France, on the 
 west, as Perpignan is on the east. 
 
 July 10th, Bordeaux. — Visited Pau, beautifully picturesque. 
 
RETURN TO PARIS. 103 
 
 Celebrated as the birth-place of Henry of Navarre, and Berna- 
 dotte, each of whom changed his religion for a crown. This is 
 a pretty, well-built place, with a fine stone bridge across the 
 river. In the days of the Black Prince, noted for wars. 
 
 July llth^ Nantes. — Saw, en route, La Eochelle, the former 
 great stronghold of the Protestants. This is a pretty and impor- 
 tant place, with a wide-spread celebrity. The important " Edict 
 of Nantes " was signed here. 
 
 *o" 
 
 July 12ih, Saumur. — ^Where Lord Chatham and tlic Dake of 
 "Wellington received part of their education at the French 
 MiHtary School. Stopping, en route to this, at " Black Angler,'^ 
 a strons lookino; town for feudal times. 
 
 "o 
 
 July 14:th. — Orleans, via Tours, a pretty place, much resorted 
 to by the English; Amboise and Blois, both historically cele- 
 brated. This place is celebrated for the siege and Maid of Or- 
 leans in English and French wars, and its cathedral. 
 
 15^/i. — Chartres ; its fine cathedral, — one of the finest in 
 France, and scene of the several coronations. 
 
 July 17th. — Eeturned to Paris yesterday after a continued 
 wander of thirteen months, and right glad to stop and breathe 
 once more. My tour through Spain and France was delightful, 
 especially through the latter, the former being only demi-civilized, 
 as far as the ordinary comforts of a traveller are cared for : bad 
 roads, bad conveyances, with minimum security for life or mo- 
 ney when travelling, though I roughed it safely through the 
 most interesting parts in my "cross cuts" and circuit. In 
 France, through districts of the most historic interest in the wars 
 with the Saracens, English, Albigenses, and Huguenots. Now 
 a breath of English air, and off direct for Cashmere 
 
 July 2dth. — Paris, have been to London, — everybody out of 
 
104 FROM AVALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 town, and all is excitement about the election. Paris all quiet, 
 the Prince President apparently popular. So, adieu. 
 
 August 4ili. — Geneva. — Have been here several days. Last 
 evening was introduced to an antique celebrity who had a great 
 admiration for America, said he knew all about the thirteen 
 States ! I could have told him we had inverted the numbers, 
 and the eagle still on his wing was extending the circuit. The 
 Sunday amusements here show Calvin's star is waning. 
 
 August 6(Ii. — Berne, via the lake to Lausanne and " Chillon's 
 walls," and a glimpse at lovely Thurn. Met two men, — one I 
 had parted from in Norway, the other at Jerusalem. Stopped a 
 day for a hasty view of the sights. The more important, the 
 Bernese Alps, magnificent in the bright sun ; and Berchtold's 
 (founder of Berne) tomb. 
 
 August lOih. — Lucerne, usually the stopping-place for visit- 
 ing the Rigi. Took a sail down the lake, as it was just clearing 
 up after a long storm. Saw hundreds of cascades and fifteen rain- 
 bows, six of them double; "Tell's" Chapel; Thorwaldsen's 
 Lion ; and on the bridge the series of paintings called " Dance 
 of Death." 
 
 August 11th. — Zurich. — Lake Zug, and field where Zwingli 
 was killed ; and battle-fields of the French, under Massena, and 
 the Russians. The first entire English version of the Bible was 
 printed here in 1535. 
 
 August 12th. — CoN'stance. — A pleasant journey ; passed the 
 castle from which the Hapsburg family (Austrian sovereigns) 
 originally came. The Grand Council of Constance, held here 
 in 1414 and '18, was attended by ecclesiastics from all parts of 
 Europe, prince-cardinals (30), patriarchs (4), archbishops (20), 
 bishops (150), professors of universities and doctors of theology 
 
AUGSBURG AND MUNICH. lOo 
 
 (200), besides a host of inferior prelates, abbtos, priors, etc., con- 
 vened for the purpose of reforming abuses in the church. Their 
 proceedings were prefaced by a declaration that the council had 
 received by " divine right" a superlative power in church mat- 
 ters, and began by deposing John XXIIL and Benedict XIII., 
 and electing in their place Martin Y. Then the treacherous 
 seizure and murder of John Huss and Jerome of Prague, in 
 spite of the safe-conduct granted him by the Emperor Sigis- 
 mund, President of the Council. 
 
 The mother of Louis Napoleon lived near this lake. In the 
 shops pictures of Huss being led to execution. The officers 
 look like dancing-masters and assistants trying to "step off" 
 with an awkward scholar in his first polka lesson ! 
 
 August 13. — To Augsburg, by steamer and " rail." The seat of 
 many diets. In one, toleration to the Protestants of Germany 
 granted. Here, in 1530, the celebrated declaration called, " The 
 Confession of Augsburg," was presented by Bayer, the Chancellor 
 of Saxony, to Charles Fifth, and loudly read to him in German 
 (that the people might understand), though Charles ordered him 
 to read it in Latin. Formerly one of the most important money 
 markets and commercial towns of Europe. Earlier an important 
 Roman town. Saw women mowing grain in a rain storm. 
 
 August 17, Munich. — ^Visited the studios of several celebrated 
 painters and sculptors. The jjalace and its curiosities. In one 
 room the portraits of the most beautiful women in Bavaria. 
 Many modern paintings in fresco and oil. The " Rich Chapel," 
 so called from its valuables. The galleries, public and private, 
 are fine. The library collection of books large and valuable. 
 The city a mass of imitations, ancient and modern. The Statue 
 of Bavaria, a splendid figure in bronze, sixty-four feet high. 
 Crawford's bronzes for the statue at Richmond, Virginia, are to 
 be cast here. 
 
 August 18, NuREMBURG. — Lies in an extensive plain, the 
 
106 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 former moat, now a vegetable garden. In the time of the 
 " Thirty Years' War" endured a memorable siege sustained by 
 Gustavus Adolphus against "Wallenstein. The place was once 
 much celebrated for its commerce and manufactures. Much 
 injured by the expulsion of the Jews. Has fine churches and 
 curious houses, with more tiers of windows in the roof than in 
 the front of the house. 
 
 AiLgust 19, Leipsic. — A dull place ; celebrated for its Uni- 
 versity, and the battle between Napoleon and the Allies, in 
 which Poniatowski was drowned, 
 
 August 20, Dresden. — Arrived yesterday. Its celebrated 
 gallery contains many of the finest works of the best artists, 
 particularly of Raphael, Correggio, Eubens, Vandyke, etc. Also 
 an admirable collection of ancient arms and armor ; then the 
 " Green Vault" or treasury — the finest collections of valuables 
 of any palace in Europe — one case alone worth $5,000,000. Met 
 Gen. Santa Cruz here ; the " valets de place," had the report 
 spread that he was the President of the United States. 
 
 August 21, Prague. — Came on last night. Well known as 
 the scene of wars and sieges. Religious, " Thirty Years' War," 
 and others. A fine library, rich in Bohemian literature. In 
 one of the churches veritable relics of Abraham, Isaac, and 
 Jacob, — a bit of the sponge wet with hyssop, part of crown of 
 thorns, true cross, etc., etc. There is a very curious synagogue 
 here, very old; and a burial-ground said to be one thousand 
 years old — it looks so. The private residences in the suburbs are 
 beautiful. Wallenstein lived here in grand style. The Uni- 
 versity, at one time very famous ; it had twenty-five thousand stu- 
 dents ; by an unfortunate measure, abridging the privileges of 
 foreigners, they were soon scattered over Europe. 
 
 August 28, Berlin". — Got here six days ago, stopping one day 
 
VJ.^,..^V^„V 
 
 
 ^'I'i i! 
 
 m M 
 
 '■!■: I 
 
 Ml " 
 
 iil'll 
 
 , -I I'll I I, 
 
 1^'' I 
 
 
 'if " • 
 
 m\ 
 
 iiii 
 
 'I'li! 
 
 , 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 jl'i 
 
 
 1 
 
 t 
 
 1 
 
 ( 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 'll'i; li!*' 
 
VIENNA. 107 
 
 at Dresden, The city is very regular, and mucli like New York 
 or Philadelphia. The galleries of all kinds (pictures, antiquities, 
 and coins) are interesting. A handsome monument in bronze 
 of Frederick the Great, with his marshals in the " Unter Linden 
 Linden," the street of Berlin. Its porcelain manufactory is 
 known throughout the world. 
 
 Met some English friends who were in the East last winter. 
 Visited Potsdam, the Prussian Versailles, where are various 
 palaces, "Sans Souci," old palace, new palace, and others; besides 
 many residences of the nobility. In the gardens of one of the 
 palaces saw one of the loftiest jets of water in the world. Some of 
 the garden beds are bordered with pumpkin vines. Here stands 
 the palace built by " Frederick the Great" after the " Seven Years' 
 War," to show Maria Theresa he had plenty of money left to 
 carry on another if she wished. His tomb, and those of his 
 horses and great dogs, are in the grounds of the palace. 
 
 August 80, Vienna. — Via Breslau, the birth-place of Blucher. 
 All last night were entertained by the discordant music of a 
 drove of hogs in the rear car, who were being taken to market. 
 The city proper is small, inclosed by walls, but the suburbs very 
 extensive, streets narrow and winding. Found many acquaint- 
 ances. The gardens are full of people every evening listening to 
 the music, and drinking beer. One of the churches has a beautiful 
 marble monument to Christina, daughter of Maria Theresa. One 
 of the chapels of another church contains the hearts of forty-three 
 Emperors in silver urns ranged around the walls. We saw in 
 the vault of the Convent of the Capucins, the coffins of the 
 Emperors for the last two hundred years. Many very beautiful, 
 several of solid silver. Among them the sarcophagus of the 
 Duke of Reichstadt, near that of his grandfather, who was very 
 fond of him. Then the cabinet of medals and coins, 134,000 ! 
 One of silver weighing six pounds ! Then the picture galleries, 
 private and public ; the former are very extensive and good, the 
 latter remarkably fine, especially in Rubens' works. The armory 
 
108 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 has a good collection. I have met several English acquaint- 
 ances here, who have introducd me to English officers in the Aus- 
 trian army. 
 
 September 12, LiNTZ. — Arrived here at daylight this morning. 
 A snug little place ; for miles around the town there are towers, 
 a new defence, an invention of one of the Archdukes, to guard 
 Vienna, this being one of her approaches. This place was a 
 Roman naval station. 
 
 September 13, VIENNA. — To-day returned here. The sail down 
 the river grand and picturesque. On inaccessible crags, old 
 castles, many celebrated as notorious robber holds. Drove out to 
 "Schtinbrunn," the principal residence of the Emperor; and 
 where Napoleon signed the Treaty of Schonbrunn. 
 
 September 15, Baden. — A pleasant country resort near Vienna. 
 To-morrow I shall start for Pesth, after more than two weeks 
 here very delightfully. 
 
 September 17, Pesth. — Coming down the Danube passed the 
 small island of Lobau, where Napoleon was obhged to retire after 
 the fields of Aspern and Essling, and was cooped up about two 
 months with 150,000 foot, 30,000 horse, with 700 cannon. By 
 a skilful manoeuvre threw hunself to the mainland over a bridge 
 and then behind his opponent, the Archduke Charles. Then 
 came the battle of TVagram. On one side of the river is Pesth, 
 on the other on high hills are Buda and Presburg, separated by 
 a deep valley. 
 
 September 18, Pesth. — This morning went to see the review 
 and manoeuvres of over eighty thousand men by the Emperor, A 
 rather good-natured looking young man, quite thin. This after- 
 noon a gentleman passed my door in the full Magyar costume, 
 which is very striking. Coming down the Danube passed Gran, 
 
DOWN THE DANUBE. 109 
 
 the scat of the See of the Primate of all Hungary. The revenue 
 the richest of any Primate in Europe, $350,000. Passed Comorn, 
 called the maiden fortress because never captured. 
 
 Sept. 2\st. — Danube Steamer. — This morning started again 
 on my voyage down the river, with one of the best cabins on 
 deck ; an English friend not joining me, offered to share it with 
 a very nice Englishman I met on board, who had the bad luck 
 to be in the general cabin, — an awful suffocating hole. Passed 
 the various towns so often the scene of contention between 
 Turks and Christians; the castle of John Hunyady, the cham- 
 pion of Christendom against the Turks in the fifteenth century ; 
 then Belgrade, so long the alternate bulwark of Christendom 
 and the advanced post of Moslem power. 
 
 Sept. lid. — Gladora, which brought us to the " rapids," 
 the scenery wild and grand ; then the remains of the old Eoman 
 road, part an excavation from the steep mountain sides, the 
 balance by holes or sockets in the rocks for beams ; saw the 
 large tablet cut in the rock and called " Trajan's Tafel ; now the 
 rapids, and foaming, chafing waters of the " Iron Gate." From 
 Orsova, to a place beyond, descended in barges. This evening a 
 grand concert by the Italian opera company on board. Among 
 the passengers a lovely Polish countess, whom Louis Napoleon 
 in presenting to the Princess Mathilde, said, " Allow me to pre- 
 sent the most beautiful woman in Paris." Besides an Arme- 
 nian, the wealthiest man in Turkey, just returning with a son 
 and pretty daughter ; has six sons being educated in England, 
 and the same number in Paris. 
 
 Sept. 2bth. — Galatz. — ^Last night were near having an awful 
 accident. A Greek freight vessel ran into us intentionally, carry- 
 ing away half of the saloon ; luckily no lives lost or personal 
 injury done. 
 
 Sept. 26th. — Black Sea.— Saw the Eussian out-posts and 
 
110 FROil WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 guards as wc came down the Danube. Passed near Ismail, 
 wliicli Suwarrow carried by storm, in 1789, with a frightful 
 massacre — 
 
 " There Avas an end of Ismail, hapless town ! 
 
 Far flashed her burning towers o'er Danube's stream, 
 And redder ran her blushing waters down." 
 
 The mouths of the Danube, passing through an extensive marsh, 
 empty into the Black Sea. This bar is difficult to cross except 
 in pleasant weather. "We have two gentlemen (Belgian and 
 Prussian) ; they have been in the Carpathian Mountains shoot- 
 ing. Saw two kinds of Gypsies : one dark ; the other light, with 
 flaxen frizzly hair ; and a curious bird, much like the ostrich. 
 Stopped at Varna for a few hours, — a dazzling whitewashed 
 town. 
 
 Sept. 28ih. — Constantinople. — At daylight the entrance to 
 the Bospliorus came in sight, with all its splendors successively 
 revealing themselves ; described in my journal of last year. Put 
 up at Misserie's hotel. My old friend, the first dragoman of our 
 legation, has invited me to join a shooting-party for an island 
 near the Dardanelles. We are to go down this afternoon. There 
 are twenty sportsmen, with more than thirty dogs, sleeping, 
 eating, howling, or barking, w^hile others are being hauled on 
 board by their masters. All fairly being on board the roll was 
 called to detect any interlopers. After we had been mustered 
 and found right then came the servants : Signer Spezziosa's 
 domesiique ; Monsieur (Somebodyelse's) domesiique ; then a lot 
 of turbaned, petticoated Alis, Mustaphas, Alexanders, and De- 
 metriuses. Then a general hunt for Senor Brown's Matthias, a 
 big Hungarian refugee, whose place had been supplied by a 
 Greek, whose name neither Mr. Brown nor any one else knew ; 
 he sat, quietly enjoying the fun, while we were racing around 
 the deck in search of him. Senor Brown's domesiique was voci- 
 ferated in French, Greek, Turkish, Italian, and German, by 
 
iSketcIied by the Aiulior. 
 
 DINNEE WITH A BET. 
 
 See page 113. 
 
A MEDLEY PARTY. Ill 
 
 thirty pairs of lungs. A turbaned, moustached blackcy, with 
 Tuskaras and bill-of-health in his pocket, sword by his side, and 
 colored dignity enveloped in huge capote, strides the deck with 
 an awful dignity as he casts a watchful eye over his noisy 
 bjects. 
 
 Sept. SOlh. — This morning we were all up a long time before 
 sunrise and stowed away in a tottering domicil. This evening 
 returned fagged out, men and dogs, with heat and miles of 
 tramping. I have never eaten such grapes as to-day we have 
 been walking by. We have a medley party. The director of 
 the Poste Fran9ais and his head clerk, a distinguished Italian 
 
 artist, a Greek merchant, Mr. B , and I. We have had 
 
 quite " a spread," red mullet, etc. ; our drinking apparatus two 
 tumblers, a cocoa-nut cup, an India-rubber one, and another of 
 leather, with silver, pewter, and wooden spoons, each man car- 
 rying this pocket-knife ! — ^but with good humor, appetite, and 
 stories of our exploits, sung, 
 
 " Fill liigh the bowl with Samian (or some other) wine ! 
 We will not think of themes like these !" 
 
 and had a right jolly ^na/e to the day. 
 
 Friday^ Octoher 1st — After a beggarly night, with hosts of 
 most unwelcome, but persevering, visitors (fleas), in a room, 
 already sufficiently tenanted by six gentlemen^ five servants, and 
 seven dogs ! made a quick toilet and breakfast, then oft'. An- 
 other splendid " spread " on our return in the evening; and now 
 aboard, going back to the city, with five hundred and odd 
 partridges ! and no end of amusing incidents and experiences. 
 One verdant youth had been cajoled out of his gun by a " honey- 
 mouthed" robber. Another, from bad shooting, was deserted 
 by his disgusted dog, who sought a more successful master. 
 Our colored " Guardiano " lies below, suffering and groaning 
 from too jovial companionship with Ceres and Bacchus. So 
 
112 FKOM WALL STllEET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 hon null, and I will resign myself to a wooden bencli and 
 " Somnus." 
 
 October 2nd, Constantinople. — This morning arrived ; state 
 of our healths inquired into by the attentive Quarantine official, 
 and off for home, forming an escort for our dogs, who could but 
 just move, much less defend themselves against the hosts of 
 "Pariahs" that came to attack them (the city is regularly divided 
 into districts by the dogs themselves, and " woe-betide" any dog, 
 public or private, who crosses the boundary, unless well pro- 
 tected). Saw some fresh American papers, filled with Presiden- 
 tial campaign and steamboat accidents. 
 
 October bill. — Yesterday, a grand change of ministers in the 
 Sultan's cabinet ; hordes of visitors coming and going ; all sorts 
 of odd lists of news " gratis " from the lots of " Queen's Messen- 
 gers," who daily come from and go in every direction, spiced 
 with happy experiences of verdant travellers. 
 
 October 12th. — To-day, I have arranged with an English friend, 
 for " a run " to Troy and the " Seven Churches," a foolhardy thing 
 I suppose, as the country is swarming with banditti ; but curio- 
 sity will lead people to be stupidly venturesome at times. A 
 Mr. Abbott Lawrence, nephew of the Minister to England, and 
 wife, with a Mrs. Tailor, a relative, arrived two or three days 
 ago ; so gossip is busy with the report that our Minister from 
 England, and the wife of General Taylor, are here. 
 
 October ISth, Kenkoi. — Came down the Dardanelles last even- 
 ing, and ashore this morning, booted and spurred, with our 
 scanty wardrobe in the saddle-bags, just in time to catch the 
 Vice-Consul at breakfast. 
 
 October 16ih, Assos. — Yesterday and day before, over much 
 the same ground, on the " Plains of Troy, " as last year. This 
 
A DINNER WITH A BEY. 113 
 
 place is an old Roman town ; our quarters a quarantine, tlie 
 ceiling nearly five feet high ! and both of us tall men. 
 
 October IQth, Kemaik. — Yesterday, rode by the sea-shore all 
 day ; at night, lodged in a quarantine as usual. I expect, as we 
 are so often put in sick quarters, we shall soon become hypo- 
 chondriac and fancy we really are ill. Reached Adrymetum at 
 two, where we took a pipe with the substitute of the Bey, who 
 was on a visit to the one at this place. Then were honored with 
 a guard to escort us here, where we found the Bey " holding 
 court." He gave us pipes, coffee, and an invitation to dinner, all 
 of which we accepted. Then led us up to his reception room. 
 Soon some blackies spread a " crum cloth " in one comer. Then 
 turning a four legged bench upside down, laid on it a large 
 waiter, covering it with a table cloth, then " counting noses," 
 placed around the sides, alternate pieces of bread, and clusters of 
 grapes (one of each to every one). They stretched around the 
 table in festoon manner, a long scarf as a " family napkin." 
 
 The servants brought basins, and pitchers of water, one hold- 
 ing it while the other poured water on our hands, which ran off 
 into the concave perforated cover of the basin, then taking a 
 napkin from his shoulder, on which there was a number corre- 
 sponding to the guests. While this was going on, my fellow- 
 traveller, who understood a little Turkish, heard one of the party, 
 who thought we were " green uns," ask the Bey if he had not 
 some forks for us, to which he replied, he thought there was not 
 one in the house, but would see ; but sent a servant, who brought 
 two old ones. 
 
 We sat down round this novel table, and the two Beys and 
 their suites (six or seven in all) too in compliment to us. The 
 Beys "led off" by dipping their spoons into a large tureen of 
 soup, and we all " followed suite " for three or four rounds, when 
 the last spoon was laid on the waiter ; the soup was removed 
 and a large dish of stewed meat, cut into small pieces, took its 
 place. I had had " the cue " from my friend, who had often 
 
 8 
 
114 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 " put up " with Beys and Pachas, never .to use my left hand on 
 any occasion. So " following leader," I dipped in my fingers 
 and bit of bread, (a piece about an inch and a half square, held 
 between the first and second fingers, at their ends,) and seized 
 all I could with my thumb and the bread ; it is then tucked 
 down the throat without the delay of mastication, but with some 
 risk of choking a beginner. After the meat succeeded three 
 dishes with different kinds of vegetables, from which we all ate, 
 between times, eating grapes together with pickles, and such like, 
 from small side dishes ; then came boiled rice and sugared milk, 
 when the spoons (without washing) were brought in requisition 
 again. This was followed by a large dish of jelly, like poor calf 's- 
 foot jelly ; then three or four courses of stewed meats and vege- 
 tables ; after these, a large plate wdth a kind of mince-meat pie ; 
 the finishing course, a grand pillaf (dish of rice and meat prepared 
 in a peculiar way), then rose from table, and resumed our dou- 
 bled up seats on the divan (which was not particularly comfort- 
 able with our long riding boots and spurs), the ablutions renewed, 
 then pipes and coffee. Many visitors " happened in," who asked 
 a,ll sorts of questions, and made all sorts of remarks, which 
 
 H understanding, translated to me. Then off to bed, much 
 
 pleased with my initiation dinner. H , who is an epicure, 
 
 and hon vivanl^ saj^s, a good Turkish cook will equal a French 
 one in the delicacy of his nice dishes. 
 
 October 19th, Kosarko. — True enough, the road has been fully 
 as rough as they represented, though we have seen no robbers, 
 against which they wished us to take a host of Zaptiyahs (guards), 
 all but two of whom we had declined. Had fine views of the 
 country in crossing the mountains. 
 
 Passed numerous tents of Urrucks and Zebeques, a sort of 
 demi-civilized Turks who rob or murder as suits their conve- 
 nience. They wear picturesque costumes, with a huge pistol 
 (stuck in the long girdle around the waist), for use or ornament 
 as occasion requires. 
 
Chifi'if'^''' '" 
 
 
 
 
 Mffe' ^^ 
 
 t \ 1^ 
 
 Sketched by tlie Author. 
 
 See page 115. 
 
 VIEW OF PERGAMUS. 
 
KUmS AT PERGAMOS. 116 
 
 In a small village met the Aga, who appeared to be holding 
 court ; he sent us on to the next village, promising to accompany 
 us the day after to Pergamos. About twenty Zebeques followed 
 the greater part of the way for their pleasure. Our quarters, 
 one end of a stable. The soldiers sent us some rice and milk in a 
 huge dish : some " swollen wheat," cheese, and a villanous sort of 
 ash cake made from barley, ground husks and all. A luxurious 
 supper for two gentlemen ! we then " tumbled in " on a mud 
 floor, I with all my clothes on even to boots and spurs, with 
 saddle for a pillow, and coverlet — bed and quilt. 
 
 Oct. 20th. — Pergamos. — This morning off by daylight, but 
 the Aga was before us ; we have been journeying in a rough 
 mountainous country. At eleven reached the valley leading to 
 Pergamos. Soon saw the remains of a Eoman bridge and aque- 
 duct — the immense ruins of the amphitheatre, built arch upon 
 arch, three stories high, over the current of a small stream; 
 a singular structure and more pecuhar situation. Peaching the 
 city, traversed it in search of lodgings; at last quartered on a 
 Greek, with a prospect of some comfort ; then climbed the isolated 
 Acropohs hill, with nothing to repay but the sight of a ruin of 
 the middle ages. 
 
 Euin-hunting through the town, saw the remains of the old 
 theatre, of which two ends are standing ; on to the amphitheatre, 
 which we sketched in spite of a young hurricane which nearly 
 blew us away. After this, saw a famous sewer, an eighth of a 
 mile long, undermining part of the town, and serving as a passage 
 for the river. Beyond this, a curious old building (of marble) 
 said to have been the palace of the Roman governor. 
 
 Oct. 21st. — KiRKAG-HATSCH. — Off by daylight, taking, as we 
 went out, a rapid saddle sketch of the valley and distant moun- 
 tains. Passed some people returning from a fair — among them 
 some gipsies with dancing bears, looking scarcely more savage 
 than their masters. At eight got here, when the Bey put us up 
 
116 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 in a nice Greek house, with well carpeted floors and silk divans. 
 Immediately on our arrival, the pretty wife of the host brought 
 us some confectionery, sherbet, and coffee. Then dinner. At 
 bed-time, two famous beds, covered with silk, were laid on the 
 floor, and so large they nearly filled the room ; for coverlets, 
 superb silk quilts, a most unexpected luxury. 
 
 Oct. 22d — Marmora. — Off and reached Aksa (Thyatira) in a 
 few hours ; it is pleasantly situated, though little beyond associa- 
 tion to recommend it. The horses had to almost swim through 
 the streets in reaching the "Kaimakans." While waiting for the 
 Aga to return from his devotions, the Zaptiyahs brought in two 
 robbers, whom they collared, and fastened the other end of the 
 long chain to a hinge on the outside of the prison. Were soon 
 off, as there was nothing to be seen, and rode over a flat country, 
 near the estate given by the Sultan to Lamartine, pausing occa- 
 sionally for a saddle sketch, and reaching Marmora about seven. 
 
 Stopping first at the Aga's for house, and horses the next day. 
 He is a splendid fellow of the " old school." The Sulagee had 
 refused to let us have his horses, and he had got the consent of 
 the last Aga to the arrangement. But as we could not get others 
 here, and the present ones are so good, (with our firman in hand,) 
 persuaded the Aga to decide that we could have these until we 
 found others to suit us, even if we had to keep them until we 
 reached Smyrna. Jolly justice for poor travellers ! The Tan- 
 zimut makes terrible work for travellers and also inhabitants, by 
 abolishing capital punishment as well as almost that of every 
 other kind. Eobbers are only shut up for a few months, perhaps 
 a year if they commit murder. 
 
 Oct. 23d — Sardis. — A pleasant early morning ride soon 
 brought us in sight of Mt. Molus, the Gygaean Lake, and im- 
 mense tumuli of the Lydian kings. That of Alyattus, father of 
 Croesus, being much the largest, is described by Herodotus, as 
 vieing with the finest monuments of Egypt or Babylon ; is three 
 
A DEJEUNER A LA DOIGT. 117 
 
 quarters of a mile at its base by two hundred feet high ; it is a 
 mound of earth with foundation of stone. The lake is large — 
 covered with wild fowl. 
 
 At a small coffee-house, they said the night before the Zapti- 
 yahs had, in a small "scrimmage," killed three robbers and cap- 
 tured two more. Last week about twenty Zebeques had occu- 
 pied one of these tumuli, and robbed or shot all who passed. 
 
 Crossed the Hermes, a small stream, but in the spring a deep 
 river. Stopped to coffee with an Aga whom we passed at his 
 encampment. Eeached Sardis about one. Leaving our saddle- 
 bags, pushed on to some huge remains of a building formerly a 
 theatre. Then the ancient temple of Cybele on the opposite side 
 of the Acropolis hill ; only two columns standing, and of Ionic 
 order ; there are remains of several others lying near ; we 
 sketched these two and the Acropolis. Then a vast building 
 called " The Palace of the Ceesars," which we sketched. This 
 evening came in two hours to a small village ; quartered in a 
 guard house (second story). As I was coming down stairs, a 
 large savage dog sprung at my foot through the open steps, 
 caught me in the heel, and took the whole length of my heavy 
 spur down his throat ! he sloped. 
 
 Oct. 24:ih. — NiMFi. — Off early, and at eleven reached Cassibar, 
 celebrated for its musk melons ; called upon the Bey, a capital 
 old fellow, and just in time for a dejeuner a la doigt, that being 
 Turkish fashion ; so took pipes and coffee first, then adjourned to 
 the balcony, where cushions were laid, and ablutions performed. 
 We were soon at work. Only us three, on each side of the table 
 a large dish of melons cut in small pieces, bread and a dish of fine 
 cut meat in the centre, for general use. The breakfast consisted 
 of several courses, commencing with fried eggs, followed by vege- 
 tablcis, stewed meat, stewed beans, and a pillaf, which is always 
 the finishing course at a Turkish table ; the vegetables supply 
 the place of drinkables, which I have never seen on one of their 
 tables. Ablutions again, then pipes and coffee. He had some 
 
118 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 curious old guns tliat were brought out for our inspection. My 
 gun and revolver pleased him very much. He was quite a 
 sportsman, though off his training, (weighing about two hundred 
 and fifty.) Got here at five ; town beautifully situated ; lodg- 
 ings, beastly. 
 
 Oct. 2oth. — Tepaquie. — In about two hours arrived at the 
 monument of Sesostris, described by Herodotus. It is a tablet 
 above life size, cut in the face of the rock, about one hundred 
 feet above the road. Lord Mandeville, a friend of H.'s, was 
 robbed here some two years ago, and they were about to cut off 
 one of his fingers to get a ring that fitted very tight ; luckily, 
 he succeeded in getting it off, and so saved his finger. It is a 
 famous place for robbers. Our present quarters are a miserable 
 hovel, we at one end, and a Bey and his Zaptiyahs at the other. 
 
 Oct. 26ih. — Ephesus. — This morning made sketches of some 
 tremendously "swell" Zebeques and Zaptiyahs, — then off for this 
 place, which we reached at twelve ; the Bey being off two hours 
 in the mountains, they would not give us rooms, but said we 
 had better go up to him and show our firman, which pleasant 
 little excursion we respectfully declined, and took possession of 
 the first house we could find, sending our firman to him while 
 we went sight-seeing. 
 
 The modern Ephesus dates for two hundred years only, and 
 is now called Ayasaluk ; it presents rather a fine appearance in 
 approacliing, with its Acropolis, ruined mosques, and extensive 
 aqueduct. We made a saddle sketch as we approached; and 
 now, winding our way to the ancient city, two miles off, paused 
 to examine some large ruins of great si^e, passing the extensive 
 remains of the Stadium, and on to the Acropolis, from which we 
 had a fine view of ruined temples and theatre. One of the for- 
 mer was the scene of an interesting incident in -St. Paul's eventful 
 life. Returned to the theatre, of which only a part of the ends, 
 and a seat or two are remaining. Extending from the side of 
 
Sketclied hv the Author. 
 
 See page IIG. 
 
 VIEW OF TIIYATIKA 
 
AUDACIOUS ROBBERS. 119 
 
 this for several hundred feet, are projections for columns, as 
 if it had been the fa9ade of some vast building, or a colonnade. 
 This is on one side of a hill which stood near the suburbs of the 
 city. As I passed around this hill, paused on the top of the 
 theatre for a sketch of the Acropolis and "bird's-eye" view of 
 the harbor. Then, further on, passed another immense ruin, 
 and a similar arrangement for portico or colonnade ; and then, 
 home. 
 
 Nicolo has laid himself out for a famous dinner, three full 
 courses — boiled, stewed, and roast chicken — most sumptuous 
 entertainment after our fortnight's fare of twelve to sixteen 
 hours in the saddle daily, and then generally nothing but rice 
 and poor bread. 
 
 Oct. 21tli, — Sedecui. — Last night a terrific storm, thundering 
 and lightening incessantly, while the rain poured in through our 
 well- ventilated roofs in every direction; among other excite- 
 ments were screams and shouts, which Nicolo informed me this 
 morning were caused by robbers. They, hearing some travellers 
 were to arrive with money, lay in wait for them, and " pour passer 
 le temps," they robbed the mail just three miles from the city ! 
 The travellers not appearing, they entered the town last evening 
 to inquire for them, and hence the screams. 
 
 The Bey, unknown to us, had stationed three guards at our 
 door to protect us. Examining our arms, we set off for another 
 survey of the ruins. The marble mosque is a fine old building ; 
 also discovered the remains of some old churches. On returning, 
 to our great surprise found no horses had arrived ; after a row 
 of a couple of hours, we were again fairly in the saddle, one of 
 the horses, making our complement, having come by virtue of 
 compulsion ; and now could not get any Zaptij^ahs for a guard ; 
 so trusting to our arms and good luck, pushed off by ourselves ; 
 towards dusk picked up an Arnaut Zaptiyah. As we approached 
 a small village, there was a tremendous bustle. A Pasha's 
 harem had arrived en route to Smyrna, with a good guard for 
 
120 • FROM "WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 them, and especially the "pickings and stealings" of his Pashalic. 
 Other Zaptiyahs were starting off in different directions for rob- 
 bers ; another party had brought in a robber's head during the 
 day. The officials would not give us any guards, so we showed 
 the firman: raising a "big fuss," and abusing them pretty tho- 
 roughly, they gave us two Amauts, (who are generally" plucky" 
 fellows) ; so pushed on by moonlight, reaching this at near 
 twelve, and over thirteen hours in the saddle ! Routing up the 
 ofiicials, got a night's quarters in the office of the Bey. 
 
 The village is the one where the Dutch Consul was carried off 
 by the robbers last year, while playing with his children in his 
 garden, and only released on payment of $3,000. 
 
 Oct. 28ih. — Smyrna. — In saddle by sunrise, and here by ten, 
 after a most delightful and interesting excursion: got in by 
 good luck safely, for which we have been congratulated by every 
 one. A few days ago, a Greek gentleman was caught while out 
 shooting, and obliged to pay $5,000 ransom. The robbers have 
 an ugly trick of shooting you from behind rocks and trees, and 
 then plundering 3-0 u at leisure. Most of these places are the sites 
 of the "Seven Churches " mentioned in Eevelations. Christianitv 
 was first planted at Ephesus by St. Paul. Pliny represents this 
 city as the ornament of Asia, and the largest city in Asia Minor. 
 The " Temple of Diana," made familiar by the narrative in the 
 "Acts of the Apostles," was one of the seven wonders of the 
 world. Laodicea, a few ruins ; Philadelphia, a number; Sardis, 
 about the same ; Thyatira, none ; and Pergamos a few uncertain 
 ones : but she and Sardis have the best. Smyrna has none at 
 all, the only relic of Christianity is a chapel for the benefit 
 of the few English residents and travellers. These churches 
 or these sights have now no interest but association and occasional 
 ■display of ruins. 
 
 Oct. 29th. — To-day H. and I have been overhauling our traps 
 .and having regular " swaps," He is going to Germany and Eng- 
 
BEIRT^TT. 121 
 
 land, and I on my eastward flight ; so among other tilings I've 
 got all his drawing and painting materials ; and if I don't come 
 back a Raphael or Claude, I probably shall return somebody 
 else. 
 
 Oct. Zlst. — To-day at church, and this afternoon promenaded 
 the streets, looking at the handsome women ; passing my banker, 
 
 Mr, L , he called me in and introduced me to his family ; 
 
 his daughters are among the prettiest young ladies I have seen. 
 
 Nov. 1st. — At Sea, off Chios. — On board, after bidding H. 
 good-bye, — same day and same destination as last year for both : 
 Athens and Beirut. Few passengers. Among them a New 
 Hampshire man, half editor, half preacher, with the sons of seve- 
 ral well known New Yorkers under his charge, for a wander in 
 Europe and the East. 
 
 Nov. 6ih. — BEiRiyT. — Got in this morning, warmly welcomed 
 by Demetrius, my handsome petticoated landlord of last year ; 
 while hosts of Alies, Achmets, Mustaphas, Musas, and Abdallahs 
 dragomen of my numerous acquaintances last year, gave me 
 recognizing grins, doubtless hoping I was going over another 
 seven months' tour. My friend Mr. Smith was busy with his 
 sermon to-day, so I only saw his family. 
 
 Nov. 7th. — To-day, to church ; this morning heard Mr. "Whit- 
 ing, who is very popular and highly esteemed by the natives. 
 This evening a grand illumination in honor of the new Pasha who 
 arrived Saturday. The shopkeepers attended him through the 
 bazaars, sprinkling rose water before him. 
 
 Nov. 8th. — Mr. Smith is to write to some friends at Damascus, 
 who are to arrange, if possible, for me to get to Palmyra, — at all 
 times a difficult and dangerous undertaking. Mr. S. is getting 
 on finely with his translation : has finished the Pentateuch and 
 
122 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 been engaged for some weeks on the New Testament. This even- 
 ing another procession : sword-dancers and others, each business 
 or procession having its evening. Then to the Beirut theatre ; a 
 blacky was bobbing in and out a dignitary's box, as if the most 
 important personage in it. The blacks here have so decided a 
 color, that most American "darkies" would almost fancy them- 
 selves "white folks" by the side of them. The opera glasses 
 and "white kids" very amusing in this place; about as wide as 
 a good sized parlor. 
 
 Nov. llih. — Jebal. — This morning, long before light, I heard 
 Achmet's shrill " Mussir, Hand ! mussir, Hand !" I sprang out 
 of bed, recognizing his tones, though not having the least idea 
 whether in Beirut, Desert, or Egypt. Soon off with my new 
 dragoman Yousif (Anglice, Joseph), with Ali dignified as cook, 
 this, my first night of tenting "solitaire;" but All's good dinner 
 had wonderful charms by way of companionship. To-day, met 
 a man going to market with grapes, and stopped him; he picked 
 up two or three stones for weight! — and all five of us carried off as 
 many grapes as we could eat, for a piastre (five cents). As the 
 weather is so cold with snow on Lebanon, I sleep to-night half 
 way up. 
 
 Nov. 14:th. — Baalbec. — This morning off an hour before sun- 
 rise ; awfully cold, and everything, plaids, coats, capote, &;c., in 
 requisition; in an hour and a half at the "Cedars." The New 
 Hampshire man and his young proteges only just " off the roost." 
 There are about two hundred trees scattered over a space of three 
 or four acres in a hollow of the mountain. Few are over two 
 feet in diameter, though some reach three and five. There are 
 three or four very patriarchal ones, that have half-a-dozen trunks 
 growing from one root or parent stock; with the exception of 
 these few, none look very old. I got a cane from the top of the 
 largest tree. Made some sketches and then set off. 
 
 Nov. loth. — ZiBDANiEH. — Sketched at Baalbec yesterday after- 
 
Sketched by the Author. 
 
 See page 117. 
 
 SARDIS. "SEVEN CIIUKCHES.' 
 
DAMASCUS. 123 
 
 noon, and this morning, wandered over the tops of tlie village 
 liouses "sans ceremonie," for good views. 
 
 Nov. 16ih, — Damascus. — To-day an alarm from Bedouins and 
 Druses ; seeing some strange armed horsemen galloping across 
 the plain, we got our guns and pistols ready, poor Ali vowing 
 if he got to Damascus he'd buy a pair of sixty piastre pistols ($3). 
 I have been to see the missionaries (American), and the English 
 consul to learn the chances of getting to Palmyra — none at present. 
 Having done most of my sight-seeing last spring, and now compa- 
 ratively " a man of leisure," I see the missionaries often : Mr. 
 Paulding, from New York ; Mr. Burnett, Ohio ; Mr. Fraser, I 
 don't know where from ; and Mr. Lansing, from the Mohawk. 
 
 Nov. 22c?. — My carpet-bag was broken open a few days since 
 and revolver stolen. Andrea, my hotel-keeper, being in a great 
 way about it, asked me to-day to go with him and see a magician. 
 To please him I went ; he looked very grave and heard the 
 story, Andrea declares he'd be the very devil if he found it. 
 Big-bearded Abraham, our juvenile waiter (of seventy, who, to 
 comfort himself after a six weeks widowerhood, took to himself 
 another wife a few days since), shakes his head and looks wise. 
 
 Nov. 23d — To-day, while sketching the court of our house, 
 in rushed Andrea with my pistol. A miserable blackguard 
 after being chained, throttled, and thrust into some dark hole, 
 confessed — and Yousif I find is the thief! 
 
 Nov. 28th. — This morning saw the "Hadj" enter the city on 
 its return from Mecca ; amused at the curious mode and style of 
 camel conveyance. I will send you a sketch I made. One camel 
 carries a " pall " and the supposed cofiin of Mahomet, and ever 
 after he is held sacred ; happy fellow ! 
 
 Nov. 29th. — The sheiks positively refuse to take me to Pal- 
 
124 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 myra, and as Yousif says he has been once, and thinks he knows 
 the way through the desert, I've concluded to overlook his theft, 
 as in the main, he's a capital dragoman with plenty of " pluck ;" 
 has been in Ibraham Pasha's service, thus used to gunpowder ; 
 and to-morrow is to get me my Arab disguise dress, and take me 
 safe to Palmyra, and back to Beirut in nine days (with one at 
 Palmyra), which just saves me the steamer, while I overlook his 
 fault, and pay an awful sum of money. 
 
 Nov. SOih. — To-day settled my contract at the English Consul's, 
 (we have none here), breakfasted with them, and then off in a 
 pelting rain ; put up to-night in a dirty village, the head man in 
 jail for some villany, so can't say what the rest of the people 
 must be ; our accommodation for man and beast, three men (with 
 self) and three horses, are two muddy rooms, six feet high by 
 twelve square, 
 
 Dec. Ist. — JuRUUD. — An Arab village ; I caught a fever last 
 night and am so weak, I have been holding on to my horse and 
 saddle all day with both hands. Passed this village this afternoon, 
 stopping for a little while in the sheik's hut ; presently there was 
 a grand stir, and they went to prayers led off by a big turbaned 
 fellow. 
 
 Dec. Sd. — Palmyra. — Got here at three to-day. Last night and 
 the night before I slept about four hours on the bare ground (cold 
 work), with my bridle in my hand, and the men the same ; but every 
 few minutes my horse would plump his feed-bag on my head, or 
 paw close to it ; and the others, I take it, did not get much more 
 sleep, from the frequent angry growls I heard. As we got near 
 this place, the mountain ranges seemed to approach closer until 
 within a mile, when they resolved themselves into a barrier of 
 rough broken hills. These hills are covered with old mud ruins 
 and part of a wall led out on this side. Passing this and reach- 
 ing the opposite side. Palmyra, the ruined capital of the "Queen 
 of the East," lay before us in all its beauty. By this one view 
 
KUINS AT PALMYRA. 125 
 
 I felt most amply paid for all my fatigue and annoyances, great 
 as they were. Baalbec is more grand with its immense founda- 
 tions, beautiful architraves, portals, and columns. Carnac is mag- 
 nificent with its massive columns, and fallen obelisks, surrounded 
 by lofty walls and towering pylons ; but for light graceful beauty 
 combined with extent, I've seen nothing in all my wanderings 
 that can bear the least comparison with Palmyra. Euined tem- 
 ples and colonnades cover a space more than a mile and a half 
 long. There is one — immensely long (several hundred feet) — 
 continuous colonnade of white marble ; the " Grand Temple of the 
 Sun " is situated on the extreme southerly part of the city. The 
 hills on the western side are covered with lofty tombs and square 
 towers, whose sole ornament is a niche half way up the front of 
 each. In the extreme north, on the summit of a hill, stands an 
 old fortress, from its appearance probably Saracenic. Coming in 
 we wound around the southern part, stopping at a sulphur spring 
 to water our horses — the only water here. Then to the " Great 
 Temple " — the house of the sheik, which consisted of one large 
 apartment with a fire near our end. This part being the seat of 
 state, I was duly installed and coffee'd ; and after " a bit of lunch," 
 started off with an Arab guide. 
 
 Passing through the grand portal of the great colonnade, I saw 
 on many of the columns Greek inscriptions, and beneath them 
 another of Palmyrene. Then through, or by other colonnades, 
 to the Tombs Several had niches in front, one with three 
 figures standing behind a corpse laid out. I found some of them 
 divided into eight partitions for the dead ; others with the ceilings 
 of the first story ornamented in various designs, the angles filled 
 up with painted figures. Over the door, are several figures in 
 basso-relievo ; around the room, pilasters with fine caps ; although 
 of two or three stories in height, I could find no passage leading 
 to them. 
 
 Most of the tombs are dilapidated. Here I stopped and made 
 two sketches. The Arabs had now increased to about twenty, 
 and raised a most intolerable din ; one moment jogging my 
 
126 FR01[ WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 elbow while trying to sec wliat I was about, the next shout- 
 ing Anizee and Arab, to frighten me ; then they would dance, 
 shoot, — anything for a noise. After I got through, returned to 
 the ruins, and examined a small temple where I found a Roman 
 inscription, which I have not seen mentioned in any of the 
 books. I was not able to copy it, as it was nearly dark, in a 
 bad position, and somewhat illegible. Then through the various 
 ruins and by the granite columns, of which there are only four 
 left. 
 
 Dr. Paulding, who was here about a year ago, traced the walls 
 of the city for a long distance, and thinks they could not have 
 been over four miles in circumference ! Now to the sheik's, it 
 being some time after dark. The Arabs having left me in dis- 
 gust, my guide was in a terrible way at my staying out so late. 
 
 On my return found the rascals had tasted away my only bot- 
 tle of wine in the absence of Yousif, who had stepped out for 
 a few minutes to attend to his horses. And now they complain 
 that their heads feel queer, as they are very temperate in their 
 habits, and seldom taste any kind of liquor. 
 
 They are the most curiously inquisitive people I have ever met 
 with. This evening they got up a grand entertainment for me, 
 giving me mine in my corner of state, to eat in lone dignity. 
 Not feeling well, I wished it far enough, but had to eat some, 
 or they would have been offended, I then stretched out on a rug 
 before the fire for the night, while at the other end of the room 
 the Arab vagabonds were "doing up" Mahomet with every 
 variety of attitude in their " religion culbutant." 
 
 December 4:th. — This morning off to the ruins by daylight. 
 Before starting, bought of the sheik a fine marble head, which he 
 had discovered in the ruins about a fortnight before. I after- 
 wards learned that the French Consul at Damascus agreed to 
 pay him handsomely for any sculpture he found in the ruins, and 
 would bring to him ; so to save the trouble of carrying the body 
 he knocked off the head ! but coming first, I took advantage of it 
 
RUINS AT PALMYRA. 127 
 
 to " drive a bargain." I deeply regretted not knowing about 
 the body: — but learned it too late; my servant "picked up" 
 the story and told it to me on my return to Damascus. Clam- 
 bered up the little temple which occupies the centre of the grand 
 court, which is about four hundred and fifty feet in breadth by 
 six himdred. 
 
 In different parts of the court are scattered groups or rows of 
 marble columns, and I presume, originally, the interior was sur- 
 rounded by a fine colonnade. On to the interior of the little 
 temple, which has been beautiful, sketched one end, and after- 
 wards the upper part of the front ; the lower is buried in Arab 
 huts. 
 
 The exterior walls on the north and south side of the court, are 
 much dilapidated, but have the remains of " the pilasters ; " the 
 eastern is new, built up wath odd bits of columns. Then, on 
 sketching the grand entrance to the colonnade, and made several 
 other drawings as I wandered through the rest of the ruins: by 
 that time my day had been stretched to twenty-five hours, and 
 Yousif was very impatient, as were the Arabs, lest some prowl- 
 ers of the " Anisees," the ruling tribe of the desert, might make 
 their appearance, as they did last year, when they blockaded two 
 of my English friends, Cathcart and Noel, in the sheik's house 
 within an hour after their arrival. 
 
 The Arab guide we "picked up" on our way out here, having 
 persuaded Yousif to pay him (contrary to my advice), he con- 
 sequently declined returning with us, but sent a boy of thirteen, 
 on a bare-back horse, and two nearly naked Arabs with clubs. 
 We were soon left by all but the boy. Presently passed part of 
 the "Hadj." Palmyra, I imagine, must have been supported 
 almost entirely by her commerce, even to the necessaries of life, 
 as all the ground, except one small tract adjoining the city, with 
 a fortress and small lake, is sand or gravel. 
 
 A more desolate sight than the hills behind the city can hardly 
 be imagined. The Arabs are lazy villains, and do nothing but 
 smoke, steal, or fight. The ground to Jeruud is hard and gravelly, 
 
128 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 except now and then a few spots of light sandy clay with holes 
 into which my horse was constantly stumbling. I saw three 
 gazelles this afternoon ; to-night stopped two hours to rest and 
 for the moon, sleeping on the ground, and though fearfully cold, 
 afraid to kindle a lire lest it might attract the Arabs. 
 
 December bill. — Jeruud. — Started again last night at twelve — 
 reached Kuryatin, another Arab village, at six, rested a couple 
 of hours, and off for this place at eight. This evening the Arab 
 boy either lost himself or ran off; so we groped on alone till about 
 ten, when we halted until one for the moon. As we were pre- 
 paring to start off, heard the distant bark of a dog, and following 
 the sound, in an hour we came to a small village. Here Yousif 
 wanted to stop and feed his horses : The " Khan keeper" took us 
 to a room where not less than twenty Arabs were stretched out 
 asleep. I declined the accommodations, and as he had no other, 
 he proposed building a fire in the yard until the horses were fed, 
 but I insisted upon Yousif 's going on to the sheik's at Jeruud ; 
 so off we started, getting here at four in the morning. 
 
 Decerriber 6ih. — Damascus. — Fed the horses, and got break- 
 fast, such as it was, at Jeruud, and just as we were starting, our 
 young Arab came in ; but having found our way thus far, we 
 let him go home, and plodded on alone. 
 
 Half way, turned from the mountains into the plain of Damas- 
 cus. Here we found a coffee-vender's stand, with a pipe or two 
 for the benefit of brigandizing Arabs, " Yankees," or what not. 
 He had a companion, the Arab " Magician" whom Andrea had 
 consulted about the revolver at Damascus. As we were starting, 
 he recognised me in my disguise, and was about making some 
 remarks, when Yousif stopped his mouth with a loaf of bread ! 
 
 Got back to the hotel at five, and right glad to have a bath (a 
 Turkish one next door), and some clean clothes, for, except my 
 boots, I had not removed an article of dress since I left here 
 seven days ago. And now I shall preserve my Arab costume, 
 and send it to you as a curiosity. 
 
Sketched by the Author. 
 
 EPHESUS. 
 
 See page IIS. 
 
Skotche.l by the Author. See l):ii,'e Ti2. 
 
 MT'LKTKKU, KKTUUT. 
 
AN ARAB VILLAGE. 129 
 
 I am the first one, as far as I can learn, of the very few tra- 
 vellers who have been able to reach this place, that has ever 
 accomplished it on horseback, and certainly in so " hap-hazard" 
 a manner, without guide or protecting sheik. Andrea and my 
 missionary friends were all glad to see me safe and successfully 
 back, as they all doubted the result of my trip, as it is rare 
 to return without some difficulty there or on the way, and 
 perhaps be turned back before reaching it ; so bidding all good- 
 bye, as I shall be off again at daylight. And now to my 
 "downy couch" of "corn-husks," but won't I sleep? — retiring 
 with tranquil mind (" happy 's the man that free from care") and 
 tired body, after an almost unexpected realization of this great 
 point in my travels, for which I returned purposely, instead of 
 going direct from Smyrna to Alexandria, and waited at Damas- 
 cus a fortnight to get a sheik to take me there. Yet seen and 
 gone so quick it now seems almost like a beautiful dream. 
 These fatigues were truly realities, especially after the first night 
 out, when I slept in that damp mud hole where I caught a 
 fever, and my only repose twenty hours a day in the saddle 
 for three days, and four hours sleep in fearfully cold nights on 
 the bare ground; with the same luxuries returning, "barring" 
 the fever which left me at Palmyra — thanks to a tough constitu- 
 tion, good habits, and a will to fight it out and get well. 
 
 Dec. 7 th. — This morning "en route" with the " bulbul's ma- 
 tins ;" I passed a party of " hadjies," and saw what Dr. Eobinson 
 has decided to be the ruins of ancient Colchis. At nine this 
 evening came to a small Arab village, and put up where we coukh 
 Ali soon had my bed arranged ; an India-rubber sheet and the 
 quilt, those charming companions of my " seven churches" tour, 
 which were bed and bedding "barring " the saddle pillow. Dinner 
 served, not "a la Frangaise" certainly, but most enjoyable. 
 The entire family squatted themselves at the respectable distance 
 of four or five feet, and while watching my graceful "handling" 
 of knife and fork, and the mysterious disappearance of tongue 
 
 9 
 
loO FROM WALI. STREET TO CASUMERE. 
 
 and chicken, they regaled me with clouds of smoke from their 
 pipes, which I from civility and good-nature had to endure. 
 
 Dec. 8th. — Beirt!jt. — At daylight a cheval, having passed a 
 most comfortable night in spite of unpromising prospects, with 
 two cats keeping " watch and ward" at my head, with noses in 
 close proximity to our provision sack. When disturbed by me 
 they "sloped" through a hole in the door, making Yousif's face 
 a resting point, " en route." I climbed cold, cheerless Lebanon's 
 crest, getting here at dark. Had a row with the custom-house 
 officer about my luggage, which he wished to, and did ex- 
 amine. "V-VTien they came to the medicine-box he "passed" 
 over that, while I did my best to get him to taste some ipecacu- 
 anha, and wouldn't I have given him a nice dose ? — He should 
 have had the full benefit of my medical experience, not in hos- 
 pital, but desert practice. The hotel was full. Called and bid 
 good-bye to my friend Mr. Smith, now an LL.D. for his orien- 
 tal attainments ; got some late papers, and lots of news, deaths, 
 and marriages of acquaintances. 
 
 Dec. lOlh. — Jaffa. — Yesterday full of business, paying off 
 and giving certificates of character, for every one in your em- 
 ploy must have them ; then on board. Among others having 
 some French dignitaries, with various ofiicials, to bid good-bye to, 
 besides a "Cawass" (to support somebody's dignity) in "full fig" 
 of oriental splendor. Why even Joseph's " coat of many colors" 
 would have been " nowhere," with every color in the rainbow 
 and — about a dozen more. At Jaffa 'we discharged about one 
 hundred and fifty pilgrims of freight ! The relief can only be 
 appreciated by a voyageur. 
 
 Sunday, Dec. 12, — Alexandria Quarantine. — Got in at 
 twelve, to be lodged in Quarantine three days, part of the Pal- 
 myra penance. For want of more liberal accommodations, I am 
 to share a small room with a Sicilian Prince, an elegant apart- 
 
A PRINCELY IGNORAMUS. 131 
 
 ment, twelve by sixteen, two barred, windows, and charming 
 vista of the Quarantine. We had to wait two hours for our 
 meagre comforts and luggage to arrive; Yankee-like, I "whit- 
 tled" while the Prince killed time and " dull care" with a " bit 
 of dudeen," as he promenaded the room, surmising if about 
 five hundred blackguards, who are now making an awful row 
 across the way, were going through the same performance every 
 day. My bedstead at last came, and what should it be but a 
 family chicken-coop of cane. Dinner accomplished, the Prince 
 went to bed with his pipe, growled at the mosquitoes, rolling his 
 eyes, and sighing as he saw me arranging my mosquito netting. 
 My taciturn associate has been trying all day, with a perfect 
 grandfather of a spyglass, to see through the Quarantine walls, for 
 I can discover no other object to look at. 
 
 December loth. — A batch of letters from the United States, and 
 books from London for my India travels. This afternoon the 
 Prince has been giving an exhibition to our Eussian and French 
 acquaintances in legerdemain. He is the most complete ignora- 
 mus Pve seen. He was at Jerusalem with the Eussians, and 
 asked them if the bones of Christ were still in the holy sepul- 
 chre. He asked me if Egypt was in Africa, and of my wander- 
 ings, and did not know about a single place. He is of the oldest 
 family in Sicily, and very rich. 
 
 December 17th. — Our consul, Mr. M , is dead — no loss. 
 
 Always " steamed up" with brandy, and sometimes took bribes. 
 Alexandria is much more like a European town than Cairo — 
 wider streets, carriages, and civilized houses. 
 
 December 19th. — Suez. — Got into Cairo at twelve last night. 
 Pleasant sail and saw them at work on the railroad. This morning 
 we were all packed in " vans," "crumpet" cart-looking affairs on 
 two wheels with four horses,stowed on either side, sometimes four, 
 sometimes six seats, omnibus fashion ; but luckily to-day, never 
 more than three or five passengers, so we had room for coats and 
 
132 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 such like : numbered ten men, all officers, civil or military, except 
 two cadets, a Bombay merchant, and self, besides a lady with her 
 child and maid. We were preceded by a blackey outrider, 
 "tricked out" in turban, frock-coat, and a pair of old slippers. 
 Had a tolerably pleasant journey — horses baulking — meals now 
 and then — got here at eleven in the evening — guards asleep, and 
 a great time to get the gates unlocked. 
 
 December 20th. — On the Eed Sea, — A cabin to myself Toge- 
 ther with ten others, we have just filled the ship. One a distin- 
 guished German missionary, sent out by the Missionary Society of 
 London ; he was sixteen years in Assyria, and established, with 
 some others, a missionary station too near the Eussian border 
 or influence ; and the Eussian government managed to have them 
 ordered out of the country. He has been about as long in India. 
 
 December 27th. — Aden. — Christmas — rough sea, and most of the 
 passengers indisposed for gaiety. Yesterday passed Mocha. To- 
 day ship coaling and we on shore, and off for the fortifications and 
 town, which is a mile from the landing, in an apparently extinct 
 crater. The place is very strongly fortified and horribly hot. Saw 
 a justice's court and a crowd of loungers learning law " gratis." 
 
 The donkey and horse-boys plaster their hair with some kind 
 of preparation that gives it a saffron color and straightening it, 
 looks funny enough, flying loose, as they never wear hats. 
 
 January ls(, 1853. — Charming day — everybody in good humor, 
 even to our grumbling captain. 
 
 January bth {Wednesday). — Bombay. — Made the harbor and 
 anchored at two. A truly Eastern scene. A distant horizon of 
 lofty mountains half encircled the view, and just visible through 
 the rising mist. The harbor beautifully picturesque with scat- 
 tered islands, covered with tall graceful palms. Every variety 
 of craft skimmed the water or fretted at the cable. Old dull 
 Indiamen, sharp rakish English or American clippers, and native 
 
Sketched by the Author. See page llf.. 
 
 ZEBEQUE ZAPTIYAH, EPHESUS. 
 
Sketched by the Author. See page 118. 
 
 ZKBKQUE Z.VPTIVAH, EPHE3US. 
 
LANDING AT BOMBAY. 133 
 
 boats of every shape and rig. On shore, tlie old fort and wide 
 esplanade, with hundreds of tents, carriages, equestrians, and 
 natives; while behind all these, a mile distant, the town, with 
 its tall minarets and temple towers, completed the scene. 
 
 Malabar Point on the north stretches far out to sea, forming 
 a large bay on this side of Bombay Island, — on the other a wide 
 expanse of water that puts up and separates it from the main- 
 land. Exchanged cards with all my "civilian" and officer ship- 
 mate friends I have made on board, and received invitations to 
 visit or stay with them (generally the latter) when I reach their 
 
 stations. I started for shore with Captain W and family ; 
 
 he is Deputy-Secretary of State, one of the many officers in civil 
 employ. He had invited me to stay with him while in Bombay. 
 
 On the esplanade were great numbers of tents occupied by 
 temporary visitors to Bombay, officers, civil or military, either 
 from the country or "going up." The "Esplanade" is a wide 
 oiDcn space between the fort and native town. Late in the 
 afternoon it is thronged with ladies and gentlemen riding or 
 driving — quite a miniature " Hyde Park." Wealthy Hindoos, 
 Mussulmen, or Parsees in their handsome equipages, vicing with 
 high-salaried English officials and government employes. Occa- 
 sionally a rickety gig, packed with half a dozen drunken "Jack 
 Tars," drawn by a horse looking like a twin-brother of the cab- 
 man's horse in Pickwick, that only managed to stand up while 
 going. Funny little bullock carts, and the animals funnier still, 
 with their straight horns and hump on their fore shoulders ; they 
 are small, active, and trot along like ponies. On past this and 
 the native town ; it was getting dark, and they were lighting ujd in 
 all kinds of, to me, singular ways. Here were "Joss Houses," 
 (Chinese temples) flaming red Hindoo temples, with mosques : 
 shops, groggeries, or taverns for the aquatic portion of the com- 
 munity, and enlivened by the presence of long-tailed Chinamen, 
 drunken rollicking sailors, grave Persians with their tall pointed 
 hats, Arabs in the " dirty picturesque," Parsees in their white 
 gowns and queer hats, Hindoos, rich and poor, from the opulent 
 
134 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 "Baboo" in bis gossamer "floating robes," to tbe sturdy porter 
 in his sligbt winter costume of three feet of twine string, and a 
 small pocket handkerchief! — mostly with their different "caste" 
 daubs of paint on face or body. A more motley set of people 
 it would be hard to find in any city in the world. Almost every 
 part of the civilized and uncivilized globe had its representative, 
 and presenting as novel a tableau- vivant, as if I had just got in 
 from Wall street. We stopped two miles out at a delightful, 
 large, comfortable house, or "bungalow," as they term every 
 house here except the Governor's or Eesident's, which they call 
 "Eesidencies." You can scarce imagine my pleasure, with such 
 a " home feeling," after nearly two years of vagrandizing and 
 " rouo-hino;." 
 
 January 6ih. — This morning was woke up by the galloping 
 of horses — found I was near the " race course," and the horses 
 exercising. Drove down to the " fort" with my host, he to attend 
 to business, I for sightseeing, shopping, etc. All the business 
 by Europeans is done here. Merchants' and bankers' counting- 
 houses, shops of every kind, and government ofl&ces — the fort 
 
 being but a walled town. Captain W. gave me a note to Dr. B , 
 
 one of the notabilities here in a literary and scientific way^ 
 besides being editor of the Bombay Times. He "booked me 
 up" in lots of places I ought to visit, suggesting Surat and its 
 neighborhood to begin with, and asked me to dinner for next 
 day, when he would show me his collections, and talk over plans 
 of travel. Then I went to my bankers, who engaged me to dinner 
 for another day to discuss tours. Visited with Captain W. the 
 library and museum, and this afternoon went to the " Club House" 
 and to inquire about travelling servants. 
 
 Jily 7th. — This afternoon drove out with Captain and Mrs. 
 W. to a fine public garden, and to see some views of the place. 
 The country, being hilly, in descending the hills, instead of a 
 " drag," one servant runs in front and pushes against the tongue 
 of the carriage. Then to a " House of Industry" under charge 
 
THE FIRE-WORSIIIPPERS. 135 
 
 of Dr. B , wliere all the little vagrants wlio are taken up are 
 
 taught useful branches of work, in which I was told they are 
 verj apt. Saw some discharged soldiers about going to Australia 
 to try their luck. "We then drove to Dr. B.'s, who had a few 
 friends to dinner to meet me, and I spent a very pleasant evening. 
 Mrs. B. is very pretty. A strong recommendation to an American 
 who is "to the manner born." ^ 
 
 Juhj 8lh. — This morning before breakfast went with Captain 
 W. to the stables ; a handsome sight, — hundreds of beautiful 
 Arab horses. The " Fort ;" and this afternoon a drive with Mrs. 
 "W. and child to Malabar Hill and Point, one of the pleasantest 
 of the many drives here. The island is very low but hilly ; in 
 many places along the shore dykes are built to prevent the sea 
 overflowing the road. Saw the "Towers of Silence" on Mala- 
 bar Hill, where the Parsees, " fire- worshippers " from Persia, 
 expose their dead. They are lofty square towers with a grating 
 just below the top on the inside. Here the body is exposed until 
 it decomposes, or is eaten by carrion birds, the bones falling 
 through ; when the place is filled by the bones it is closed and 
 another built. They have a peculiar hat, which they were com- 
 pelled to wear at first as a badge of degradation, and now have 
 adopted as their distinctive mark. They are of very light 
 mulatto color, with bright dark eyes ; their women are very pretty. 
 
 Eeturning, we passed near the railway which has been con- 
 structed to run to Calcutta. About forty miles are completed : but 
 I think it is a great mistake to make it so solid, as if it were an 
 English railroad, where the distances are very short, and heavy 
 trains hourly passmg. Here they will have but few and light 
 trains, required chiefly for produce, which is now brought to 
 market from the interior by the slow conveyance of bullock- 
 carts, often taking weeks, and making the cost of transportation 
 enormous: for except on the main arteries, the roads of the coun- 
 try are very bad. 
 
 January 9lh. — Sunday. Attended church ; the weather is hot, 
 
136 FROi[ WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 and we arc all wearing the thinnest summer clothes. In church 
 long rows of punkal IS were in motion during the entire service, 
 pulled by men outside. They are oblong affairs, varying from 
 six to twelve feet long, by two to four feet wide — a framework 
 covered with muslin or stamped paper swinging on hooks, length- 
 ways along the ceihng, and used in every house and church to 
 keep them cool. A servant, called bearer, though the title of each 
 servant is different in eacb presidency, usually stands in the 
 corner of the room and pulls them. This evening our mission- 
 ary acquaintance of the steamer dined with us. 
 
 January lOlh. — This morning we (Captain, Mrs. W. and I,) 
 were all off long before sunrise for the island and caves of Ele- 
 phanta, with a regular "fit out" of servants — for no one in India 
 ever moves without a lot of them. We had three, besides extra 
 men for chairs, table, and a hamper of provisions. The sail was 
 delightful, with a beautiful view in the early morning light, 
 witli every tree and shrub freshened by tbe cool nigbt air for the 
 scorching heat of the day. On shore, we soon scrambled up the 
 hill to the caves. They have been excavated in a hard blackish. 
 stone like volcanic trap. The entrance is small, the ceiling, 
 though, twenty feet high, appears low for the immense size of the 
 place. The walls are plain ; at the entrance of the cave stand 
 four massive columns, with corresponding ones inside, in rows of 
 seven each formerly, though many are now broken or fallen. The 
 tradition is the Mahommedans or Portuguese placed cannon at 
 tbe entrance, and blew down the columns and figures or idols. 
 They form a fine colonnade from the sides of the Temj^le, whick 
 is about one hundred feet deep, by one hundred and fifty in 
 width, including side rooms or chapels, with altars, apparently. 
 At the end of the Hall or Temple is an immense alto-relievo of 
 the Hindoo Trinity. There is no certain mode of arriving at the 
 antiquity of this Temple : but as near as they can tell from the 
 cave temples, in which they have found inscriptions, it is about 
 nine hundred years old. 
 
ARRIVAL AT SURAT. 137 
 
 January 11th. — I have found a head servant, or butler as he is 
 termed in this Presidency, and have been getting up my "kit " 
 in the bazaars. This evening, with Captain and Mrs. W. went 
 to a dinner party at ]\[r. D , one of the most distin- 
 guished barristers here. 
 
 January 11th. — This evenmg with the same friends, went to the 
 Governor's (Lord Falkland's) reception. The scene was brilliant 
 from the number of officers, mostly with decorations, for with the 
 numerous wars, every man has had a chance " to smell powder " 
 and distinguish himself. There were many ladies, a few pretty. 
 From climate and want of exercise, the ladies are said to fade 
 very quickly here. Captain W. introduced me to many officers, 
 some much distinguished, among them a Colonel Havelock, with 
 his breast covered with medals,* — very affiible and looking every 
 inch the soldier. There were several in the brilliant, though 
 gaudy imiform of the Irregular Cavalry — a half native, half 
 European dress. 
 
 January ISih. — To-day packing up for " a run " to Surat, 
 Gogo, etc. Had the offer from several acquaintances of their 
 houses and servants at Surat, but Captain W. advises me to go to 
 a friend of his, the Judge ; I will follow his advice. Got numbers 
 of letters to my various destinations. 
 
 January loth. SuRAT. — Started night before last, and last night 
 reached the bar too late to cross, so we w^ere pitched about all night 
 
 in " a nasty sea." Arrived here at Judge F by eight, and 
 
 in the usual Indian style, the first the host knew the guest was at 
 the door with all his " traps." After breakfast he sent his servant 
 to arrange for a boat to-morrow to visit Gogo and the temples. 
 After giving me quantities of Indian books and introducing 
 me to his library for my amusement during the day, he excused 
 
 * The same who has since, during the Indian mutinies, won so high a name, 
 and finally died at the " post of duty." 
 
138 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 himself until "tiffin" (lunch), as he was obliged to hold "cutch- 
 crrj " (native court). I then examined the boat, which was not 
 verj prepossessing, and returned to the library, which is choice. 
 Tiffined, and then we drove to see the tombs of the early Dutch 
 and English settlers, this being one of the parts of India where 
 foreigners first settled. In driving through the town passed the 
 old Portuguese fort, the Dutch and English factories (magazines 
 or warehouses), or rather their "patched up" ruins. 
 
 The old houses we passed had much elaborate carving, though 
 not pleasing. I was nearly overwhelmed by the bows, for Judge 
 F. is treated with almost regal attention. At last reached the tombs; 
 they must have been fine in their day, though now fast crum- 
 bling ; the architecture is of a nameless order, it is so varied : 
 composite, Hindoo, Mahommedan, Grecian, and original. Then 
 to their rivals in life and death, the English. Passing the house 
 of a wealthy Parsee, a princely establishment, saw on each gate- 
 post the wooden figure of an English sentinel. The English 
 tombs are as varied as the Dutch, though not so numerous. Some 
 of the large ones looked like castles in size and structure ; others 
 painted bright vermilion. On to the tombs of the Nawaubs of 
 Surat, descendants of the Grand Mogul at Delhi, of which this 
 was a tributary formerly. This is a large platform of stone and 
 plaster, some fifty feet square and four high. Here are two or 
 three low Moslem tombs of the late rulers and their families, but 
 neither handsome nor imposing. Went around the outside walls 
 of the city a little way into the country. Home, and dressed for 
 dinner. Evisn in this hot climate they adhere to their home cos- 
 tume of a full evening dress for dining. That and sundry other 
 matters discussed, we went to bed. The house is delight- 
 fully situated on the river ; it opens on a piazza, on all sides of 
 which the birds and squirrels avail themselves to the fullest 
 extent : the former hopping about the room as we sit at table, the 
 latter racing round the room making their familiar chirp, and 
 attacking every loose end in the carpet they can see. Surat was 
 the great emporium of foreign commerce in India, when Euro- 
 
THE GULF OF CAMBAY. 139 
 
 peans discovered the passage around the Cape of Good Hope, and 
 the capital of a populous, commercial, and manufacturing country, 
 trading with Europe and western Asia through the Eed Sea, and 
 Persian Gulf. Its population was then estimated at 700,000. 
 This was the port where Mahommedans embarked on their pil- 
 grimage to Mecca. Here the Dutch first established large factories. 
 They were followed by the East India Company, -whose factories 
 were the largest in India. The prince or nabob was first temporary 
 deputy, and eventually the hereditary deputy of the Emperor at 
 Delhi. In 1800 the East India Company agreed to pay him and 
 his heirs, ao annuity of $50,000, on condition of his resigning 
 the government with all its privileges, which he accepted, and it 
 now belongs to the Company. In 1662 Charles II., by his marriage 
 with the Infanta Catherine of Portugal, received Bombay as part 
 of her dowry, and that soon became the chief seat of the English 
 factories on the west coast of India in the place of Surat. Bombay, 
 being on an island, was more easily defended ; and though often 
 attacked, it has never been taken since first occupied by the English, 
 
 Jan. 17th. — Gulf of Cambay. — ^Yesterday and to-day we've 
 been tossing about this wild sea in a small boat ; this evening 
 came to anchor to wait the change of tide, in the middle of the 
 gulf, with a heavy sea and this crazy rickety open boat. The 
 fools anchoring her at first broadside to the sea ; and such a jolly 
 scene of confusion as we presented would have been most 
 amusing to an uninterested spectator, but in more senses than one 
 it was miserable to me ; for I was holding on with both hands, to 
 keep from being rolled on to the floor, or pitched out of the boat, 
 while bottles of wine, beer, and sauces, with preserved meats and 
 soups, were dancing "Pop goes the weasel," or some lively 
 jig under foot. The crockery ware jingled and crashed, until a 
 total demolition of my entire stock was threatened. After half 
 an hour of this delightful variety, I succeeded in getting the men 
 to change the position of the boat for a slightly better one, where 
 we tossed about like a cork. 
 
140 FROJI WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 Jan. IStJi. — GoGO. — Kan across the Gulf and got in at ten this 
 morning. Four officers, supposing ours was the mail boat, came 
 down. Discovering their mistake, they invited me to spend the 
 day with them at the Bungalow. They were Bombay army 
 officers on leave. Sickness was the plea, though they seemed to 
 enjoy a fair amount of health, and discussed breakfast and beer 
 with remarkable gusto ; and went shooting every day for a gentle 
 " constitutional." Extending their invitation to dinner, I accepted 
 and we " clubbed prog." 
 
 Jan. 19ih. — Paulytanna. — Started last night in a small ox 
 cart, with matting cover, open at both ends, no springs, and a 
 layer of hay on which my quilt, coat, and self were spread; 
 another cart contained my traps and servant. This morning passed 
 near four antelopes, and soon after five more. Unfortunately 
 I had left my rifle at Bombay, as the servant said there was 
 no game here. Near the road a funn}^ little temple, and at 
 nine came in. The bungalow "had departed this life," but the 
 Eajah found me quarters in the second story of a new building, 
 ascended by a ladder ; his elephant was my opposite neighbor. 
 Saw several people carrying bows and arrows: bows of reed, with a 
 thin shaving of reed for bow-string, the arrows with long lance- 
 like heads. 
 
 I had ordered a palanquin, but none coming, went out to look 
 for it, and found it, or what they termed one. A frame, two feet 
 square, with cloth seat, hung by two ropes from two long poles ; 
 here I was seated, with my feet lifted as high as my head, on a 
 band, and thus trotted along. Our road lay through a long 
 avenue of pumelo trees. Passed by numerous tanks (artificial 
 reservoirs), in reaching the mountain, a lofty isolated hill, crested 
 with temples. Their first progress was to get me caught in a rock, 
 so I rolled out, and they seized two other men, and on up we 
 went, passing great numbers of returning devotees of both sexes, 
 the women balanced on two poles, like myself; along the ascent 
 were many temples and tanks, somewhat pleasing. At last, 
 
HINDOO TEMPLES. 141 
 
 after a most tedious time, in wliicli my dignity was gratified at 
 the expense of my comfort, we reached the top, where is a most 
 extensive view. On entering the fortress-like walls, wandered 
 over not less than five acres, completely crowded with temples, 
 no other term will express it ; for every step, right or left, 
 advance or recede, you step into another temple. All of dark 
 sandstone, elaborately sculptured, with domes or towers, and 
 presenting a scene as curious as picturesque. The interiors were 
 generally alike, — five idols, a centre, and four side ones, — never 
 more than two on the same level, but descending in pairs (one on 
 each side). Along some parts of the walls, were long aisles, with 
 rows of these altars and deities. The hundreds of passages and 
 steps, ascending and descending, of these various temples, form a 
 labyrinth. There are quantities of small tanks — frequent ablu- 
 tions being one of the virtues of the Hindoos, In every court, — 
 clouds of paroquets, doves, and peacocks, luxuriating after their 
 fashion, — while a dozen lazy fellows were lying on the pavement 
 basking in the sun, while they played a game with dice and men 
 on a square bit of cloth. These temples were erected by the 
 Jahns, a sect of, or division from the Buddhists, and this is one 
 of their head-quarters. 
 
 January 20ih, GoGO. — Starting at six last evening, got in at 
 ten. In walking this morning, an antelope passed not a hundred 
 yards off. To-day one of the officers, a " dabster " in Soyer's 
 art, has been trying his hand at teaching his native cook to make 
 a pati^ of lobster — a Boston article sent out hermetically sealed, 
 like the roast beef, soups, etc., from Piccadilly, We have had 
 quite a dinner party ourselves, including the artiste of the pate, 
 
 a Captain J , and a Major somebody else. At the " wind 
 
 up, Captain X , who is to be my compagnon de voyage 
 
 in the bunda (passenger or mail) boat to Surat to-night. 
 
 January list, Surat.— Sailed last evening, with two more 
 houses (with servants always) at my command, offered by my 
 
142 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 late officer acquaintances at Gogo. My companion, a good fellow, 
 in the Guzcrat Irregular Cavalry, now on his way to Cairo to 
 meet his " ladye-love," who conies out from England to marry 
 him (they have an odd rule in the service, originating before the 
 days of steamers, Suez route, and rapid transit). A man may 
 go off on a two years' leave, but nowhere west of the " Cape " 
 (of Good Hope), as he cannot go beyond without losing his " ap- 
 pointment," which is like a man's profession, business, or office. 
 The lady has been out once before as far as Cairo, but unluckily 
 for both parties his leave of absence was unexpectedly cut short 
 by an order for "immediate duty," carrying him far into the 
 interior. Got in this morning. 
 
 January Tlnd^ SuRAT Bar. — This morning Judge F. out 
 shooting. I drove out to see the tombs again, and sketch them. 
 Afterwards the tombs of the Mullahs. They are the head of a 
 certain sect of Mussulmen, whose head-quarters are here. He 
 exercises absolute sway over them, and is immensely rich. The 
 tombs are in mausoleums, a large court, very handsome in device. 
 They are built of brick or stone, stuccoed ; on each coffin were 
 placed fresh flowers. 03" at one, and four miles below Surat, 
 inside the Bar, got aground, where we have been all day. The 
 river scenery is flat. On the table lies Uncle Tom's Cabin. I 
 am told it has a run, not only over Europe where it is translated 
 into two languages, but all over India. 
 
 January 24:th, Bombay. — ISTight before last got off; a pleasant 
 sail, and at midnight in Bombay harbor. All last night. Par- 
 sees, Mussulmen, and Hindoos, were disembarking themselves 
 and effects with tremendous rout. This morning to Capt. W.'s. 
 
 January 25th. — This morning Captain W. had a (to me most 
 
 welcome) note, from Col. B (a friend of his, and detached by 
 
 Government to mount the cavalry, as one of the best judges of 
 horses in India), with an Arab horse for me to try. So after 
 
."krtcliPd by thp Author. Pee page 123. 
 
 IIAD.I KKTrKXlN(; FIMM MKrCA. DAMASCUS. 
 
A MULTIPLICITY OF SERVANTS. 143 
 
 breakfast, adjourned to the race-course, where he i^erformed to 
 my satisfaction, and now I am the owner of a beautiful Arab — 
 "a dapple grey." Thus much on my trip, and shall soon be 
 through my equipment at the bazaars, and off. 
 
 January 26, 27. — Trying the horse, and shopping. Captain and 
 Mrs. W. are at a state dinner at the Governor's. Horses and car- 
 riages are a luxury in most places, but here, from the heat of 
 the climate, they become a positive necessity, both for locomotion 
 and health. TVith carriages, usually two, and always one ser- 
 vant besides the coachman, they ride behind on the box, or run 
 ahead to clear the way, or in going down hill to act as a " brake." 
 The extent of the affected heljDlessness of the people, added to 
 the stringency of caste which confines certain work to certain 
 castes, is perfectly absurd. In this house, with only a handsome 
 income from the office, there are about twenty men and two 
 women servants, and the family — a man, his wife and child. 
 Every family does the same. As a bachelor, I could not live with 
 less than nine or ten. In a large house, the butler must have 
 his one or two assistants, often more ; the cook, his ; at the door 
 is a porter, backed by from two to half-a-dozen others, called 
 peons. A hamal to make beds, sweep, and clean lamps; 
 another to bring water ; one to wash, called a doby ; a tailor, 
 usually a Portuguese (from Goa), like the cook ; then in the 
 stable the coachman and five grooms, for five horses, for every 
 horse must have his groom ; and if you do not buy the grass or 
 hay, an extra man for each horse to cut it for him. Fortunately 
 the wages are very low, and they find themselves. A lady told 
 me to-day two very good jokes to illustrate the way servants 
 and tradespeople manage here. Her husband happened to receive 
 a higher appointment a few years since, with large pay. At once 
 everything increased in price, to her great astonishment; on 
 applying to the butler, who makes all the purchases, he coolly 
 replied — "Massa have much higher pay, now servants ought 
 to have same." The other was that two officers and their fami- 
 
l-i-l FRO^I WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 lies were staying at licr liouse, one a major, the other a captain. 
 One day a Borah (the people who carry round things, like 
 country pedlars,) called and sold some things to the major's wife, 
 afterwards to the captain's wife, in another room ; comparing 
 notes, the major's wife found she had been paying much higher 
 prices. The man returning in a few days, they accused him of it, 
 and he rej)lied " that Madame Saib " (lady) meaning the major's 
 wife, "had more money, her husband had good pa}', while the 
 other lady's husband was only a captain, and had poor pay." 
 These are fair samples of the way the tradespeople and servants 
 arrange matters, so that poorly paid officials can thus, in many 
 respects, live as well as the more highly paid ones, through this 
 kind consideration shown them. The butlers meet once a week 
 and regulate the prices at which they are to let their masters have 
 things, and pocket the balance. If you keep a dog, you must 
 have an extra man to take care of him. An acquaintance told me 
 that he had seen at Calcutta (where they are more lazy, helpless, 
 or elegant, whichever you choose,) a gentleman dressing with 
 five servants assisting. 
 
 In making out my complement for rapid travelling (twenty- 
 five miles a day, when they must all ride), my retinue con- 
 sisted of a butler, or head servant, cook, and gorawalla or groom. 
 My butler suggests the propriety of getting an assistant for the 
 cook ; but I respectfully decline, feeling quite sure my appetite 
 while travelling wont require much pampering, and that the 
 potage and piece de resistance will have such justice done them 
 there will be no occasion for many entremets, and when I stop I 
 must trust to good luck and my host's cuisine. The Parsees 
 abound in this part of India ; Surat and Bombay were their first 
 landing-places when they were driven out of Persia. Although 
 they are the Jews of India, they are often liberal in charities. 
 Sir Jamesgee Jejeebhoy has been specially so, and established a 
 medical college. It was for his liberality, that the queen 
 knighted him. One of the sights here is the Arab stables, where 
 are hundreds of fine horses, brought down from Bushire on the 
 
BUND A BOAT, 145 
 
 Persian Gulf. They are almost tlie only horses used here, and 
 certainly the only good ones. They bring from a hundred and 
 fifty to fifteen hundred dollars, according to size, quality, and 
 speed ; they are generally small, usually not over fourteen and 
 a half hands, and certainly not of the sui^erior ones, but they 
 are strong and close-ribbed. Government pays two hundred 
 and fifty dollars for every " cavalry mount," and only fourteen 
 and a half hands at that. 
 
 The police here are admirable. The Sepoy soldiers are fine- 
 looking, and with the affected swagger of the English (or as 
 they are called here to distinguish them from the natives, 
 European) soldiers. You can hardly tell them apart when seen at 
 a short distance, and walking from you. The Lancers beat the 
 Infantry with their beautiful light blue dress and jaunty air. 
 I must say good-night, the mosquitos are rather too troublesome. 
 A few nights since I counted two hundred and forty-three on my 
 mosquito curtains, and for the first few days after my arrival my 
 face looked as if I was just recovering from the varioloid. At 
 Bombay there are several missionaries, among them Mr. Allen, 
 who has resided in the place for twenty years, and a most estimable 
 person. There is also an American missionary press here. 
 Thanks to our Boston ice ships, we indulge in "creams" and 
 ice water almost as reasonably as at home, besides Yankee clocks, 
 or " Sam Slicks " as they are generally termed, rocking-chairs, a 
 luxury exclusively American in its origin, preserved lobsters, and 
 clams in hermetically sealed cans, 
 
 January 29;A.— Buxda Boat.— With such a date without 
 explanation, you will be considerably puzzled to find me by the 
 map. Last night, or rather about three this morning, I finished 
 my last letter to you ; you know I come rightly by my love for 
 
 the " small hours." At sunrise, bidding Captain W and 
 
 family good-bye, with many thanks for their kindness and atten- 
 tion, which have so much contributed to my pleasure here, and 
 in the trip to Surat, besides all that is in store for me from the 
 
 10 
 
146 FROil WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 many letters he has given me to friends and acquaintances all 
 over India. Some of them of highest positions, "Ecsidents," 
 " Members of Supreme Council," and the Governors of Madras and 
 Ceylon, besides many his friends here have given me. Started 
 by water for Basscin and Tannah. The " dapple grey " went on 
 by land some hours before. ShakesiDcarc speaks of a "tide in 
 the afiiiirs of men that leads on to fortune, etc." I had wind and 
 tide, yet both deserted me, and I am at anchor, journalizing 
 " solus " in my cabin. A pretty yacht lies at anchor near me ; 
 nothing breaks the stillness of the scene except a few boats, 
 gliding with the tide down to Bombay, and the cheerful songs 
 of the oarsmen. 
 
 January ZOih, BuxDA BoAT. — Off again at two last night ; at 
 four, plumped into the stone bridge connecting Tannah with the 
 main land. "We lay there until the tide had lost some of its 
 force, and then on to Bassein, the old Portuguese settlement, 
 quite missing my evening reveille of " All's well ;" my midnight 
 one of the " thump, thump " of the doolies, and at daylight 
 that of the race-horses on the "course." Got here at eight. 
 It has a picturesque look ; the old walls washed by the waves, 
 :and from the interior a forest of fruit and other trees, vieing 
 with the three old church towers in height. Eeaching the shore 
 was hailed by a custom-house officer to know who we were. 
 " Ireland Saib," the response of butler, or " Butler Saib " as the 
 crew dignify him. Now Ireland Saib means Mr. Ireland, but in 
 their stupidity of character carried into the language, they put 
 the Mr. last. I was soon borne ashore on the backs of two 
 of the natives, who, catching me by the calves of my legs, gave 
 me the difficult task of balancing the rest of my body as best I 
 could on their shoulders, while I was very apprehensive of falling 
 backwards into the water. The gates were studded with sharp 
 spikes to prevent elephants from knocking them in, as in these 
 countries they are substituted for powder and ball for that pur- 
 pose. Inside a dense forest, and ruins of houses ; some few of 
 
" BHAKG." 147 
 
 the seven or eiglit old cliurclics had cloisters, — in one quite per- 
 fect. An English Vandal is erecting a sugar refinery in one of 
 the finest churches, over the graves of the old Fathers, who, if 
 they should happen to wake would cross themselves and mutter a 
 hasty " ave," fancying the " Evil One " had come to claim his oivn. 
 Saw a number of old tombs, one 1607. In the midst of the 
 churches, a Hindoo temple erected by the Niwaub of Poona, 
 after he had starved the Portuguese into surrendering. Beyond 
 these, the tomb of the wife of an Indian officer, buried far away 
 from her family and her home. From the sap of the palm, the 
 natives make quantities of an intoxicating drink called "bhang." 
 A hole is made in the tree near the branches, and the sap passes 
 along a leaf gutter into an earthen pot just below. Some trees 
 yield four and five gallons. It is amusing to watch the men 
 climbing these trees with all their arrangements ; a knife in their 
 belt, a double hook on the back, one end secured to the girdle or 
 belt, the other securing the earthen pot ; then with a short cord 
 which they put around the tree, they start, catching the cord in 
 one of the regular and circular projections of the tree, left every 
 year as each set of leaves die off. They pull themselves up 
 about two feet at a time, using these projections to rest their feet 
 on. My informant here, the Yandal Englishman of the church, 
 says the government derives an income of £30,000 from it. He 
 is the sole resident of this city, if I may except the huge cobras, 
 which are fearfully numerous. Much sugar-cane of a yery 
 superior quality is grown here ; but the natives do not under- 
 stand how to prepare it, and therefore lose much of the saccha- 
 rine. Then to Tannah, twenty miles distant. The sail beautiful. 
 The views a combination of the Hudson near Catskill, " Over- 
 slaugh," and Mohawk. There were numerous distant ranges of 
 rugged mountains and other wild scenery, from which an occa- 
 sional Hindoo temple appeared. 
 
 January Blst, Travellers' Bungalow, Tannah. — This is a 
 military station near the water, and has an old fort situated on the 
 
148 FROM WALL STKEET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 island of Salscttc. Got in at four this morning, and was soon esta- 
 blished in these snug quarters, which are erected by the govern- 
 ment for the convenience of its travelling employes and their 
 families, as there are very few hotels in any part of India, and those 
 generally very poor; government providing a "sweeper " or low 
 caste man who brings water, cleans the place, etc., while your 
 own servants must do the cooking and you provide the bed. 
 Government charges a rupee (fifty cents) for twenty-four hours, 
 and half a rupee for a less time. The money is paid to the 
 servant, and you enter your name and amount paid. These 
 often form convenient registers of the movements of one's 
 friends. 
 
 Just returned from the Eock Temples, of Salsette, a ride of 
 eight miles through an Indian path, splendid for tigers and 
 cobras; luckily saw neither. I especially dread the latter, as 
 they are quite as venomous as the rattlesnake, and are so perti- 
 nacious in their desire for the comforts of domestic life, they are 
 often found in your parlors, bedrooms, and beds. The low 
 open houses afford them admirable opportunities of gratifying 
 their tastes. No Indian (a word always used in India to mean 
 an English resident, whether civil, military, or shopkeeper, those 
 belonging to the home regiments being termed Queen's officers or 
 men) or other white person in India ever goes to bed without 
 glancing at it first, and a night light, in case he should get up, 
 that he may see that he does not step on a snake ; always giving 
 their boots and clothes a shake before putting them on. The 
 cobras are cowardly, except when attacked, and then they sup- 
 port themselves on about one-third of their length, the rest being 
 poised in the air, so that the largest ones, seven and nine feet 
 long, make quite a respectable appearance with five and six feet 
 poised in this manner. I am trying to journalize, but awful hot 
 work; the doors and windows are wide open, and I in the 
 thinnest summer clothes, or what is left of them, with the coat, 
 vest, cravat, and boots laid aside, and sleeves rolled up, in the 
 vain hopes of being cool. The temples are excavations in the 
 
INDIAN SERVANTS. ^ 149 
 
 exterior side of a semi-circular ledge of rock. First a number 
 of small ones, without size or beauty, with a few figures in 
 relievo; then some larger ones with colossal figures, and one 
 with thirty-one columns on a side, and stone arches springing 
 from the tops of the columns. At the altar end of some temples 
 are dome-looking affairs in stone, as if the dome of some minia- 
 ture Mahommedan temple had been transported here. An old 
 fellow who had established his quarters here was walking around 
 with trident like a terrestrial Neptune. In a small tank in the 
 rock, saw a snake asleep, his body twined around a stick to keep 
 his head above the water. I struck at him, and the old Hindoo 
 gave a half-and-half howl of sorrow and anger — I suppose 
 dubbed me a " John Bull," like my English friends, and thought 
 like them I despised their cobra gods. 
 
 February 1st. — ^Pattnah Bungalow. — Oh, the luxury of 
 Indian servants, if you are obliged to have a lot of them. In 
 the middle of last night, I rose to get a glass of water, and walked 
 to the door for a breath of fresh air and a peep at the full moon, 
 which was shining brilliantly ; for be it known you rarely fasten 
 any doors or windows in India — either there is no danger of 
 being robbed, or else useless to try and guard against it, and 
 then pay for immunity. The chief of the band of robbers sticks 
 his spear in your compound (courtyard), and that shows the 
 gang that you are under tribute ; and as their chief holds himself 
 responsible for your safety, jou are secure. At my bungalow 
 door there lay my butler on his mat across the entrance. My 
 step woke him; his first words were, "Have a cup of tea, 
 Massa? can get it ready in very few minutes." Imagine a ser- 
 vant in any civilized country in the world asking such a ques- 
 tion at such an hour ! Why, he'd meditate suicide first. This 
 morning on my march before sunrise. Just out of the town 
 met two "smart-looking" officers in their "shell jackets," taking 
 a ride with a lady. The air was delightful, and the mist rising 
 from the river. The birds were just commencing their morning 
 
150 ^ FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 carol. The only other sounds that broke the stillness were the 
 dull tread of my horse, or now and then the creak of my waggon 
 wheels, and occasionally a shrill neigh from my Arab, as if, in 
 his loneliness, " whistling to keep his courage up," — and well he 
 may, with two thousand and odd miles before him. The scene 
 was beautiful ; a dozen different ranges of rugged mountains, 
 with jagged peaks, like castles in the distance, with an occa- 
 sional peep at the river, and a straggling boat, with its picturesque 
 sail, trying in vain to find a puff of air. Near us mingled fields 
 and forests, with groves of tamarinds, mangoes, and stately palms, 
 with numerous other denizens of these lands, with names and 
 appearance strange to my Yankee ears and eyes. 
 
 In an hour got to the ferry, and crossed to the mainland. On 
 the way saw a pair of noble oxen in charge of a sepoy (native 
 soldier). The cattle here have a peculiar hump on the shoul- 
 der ; when salted it is delicious. Continued on to a military 
 station in charge of three antediluvian sepoys. As the hour- 
 glass ran out, the one on guard rang the hour on a stone gong^ 
 while his successor doffed his Hindostanee robes, and metamor- 
 phosed himself into a jaunty-looking nonchalant sepoy. Near 
 by, stood a hospital, on the other side, ofiicers' houses. I " bor- 
 rowed the shade" of a species of veranda that ran around the 
 house for my ablutions and breakfast. 
 
 At four, on our march again. To-day felt for the first time 
 what is termed the "hot winds" — the air like a furnace. Ah! 
 ye who are shivering over hot coal fires, how I'd like to exchange 
 some of this heat for your cold. I'd be liberal in my rates. While 
 breakfasting, was surprised by the apparition of an English " dog- 
 cart" (now, you who are unsophisticated, don't fancy some canine 
 contrivance for meditated cruelty to animals, but a box on two 
 wheels to carry dogs to the hunting ground, — a raised seat in front 
 for the gentleman to preside over the " ribbons," and a seat behind 
 for servant), — with two turbaned Hindoos on the box, trotting 
 merrily along, with "Bombay and Agra Mail" on the side. 
 
 At eight arrived. Every bungalow has one or two bathing- 
 
SCENES BY THE WAY. 151 
 
 rooms, not witli "hot and cold batlis always ready," but chat- 
 ties — earthen pots of water, which you throw over you with a 
 cup, and the sloping plaster floor conducts it to a hole in the 
 corner; here you can splash as long as you please. I never 
 really enjoyed the luxury of bathing until I reached this hot 
 climate. 
 
 February 2d. — To-day off an hour and a half before sunrise. 
 Breakfasted at a bungalow which I reached in about five hours. 
 Eoad very dusty. Passed an immense drove of bullocks carry- 
 ing grain in sacks on their backs to Bombay — I counted fifteen 
 hundred, and missed many. My Arab, not fancying their huge 
 family carts, reared, backed, plunged, and kicked, to the con- 
 siderable risk of getting a horn in his side or my legs. Passed 
 another drove of bullocks, nearly as numerous, going in the 
 opposite direction. They belong to a special race of people, 
 whose business has been, for generations, to wander about in 
 this style, living in their carts, and supplying villages and camps 
 with cattle and grain. They are peaceable, though they carry 
 long swords, heavy spears, guns, bows and arrows. The Duke of 
 "Wellington, conciliating them, found them very useful in his 
 campaigns. 
 
 At this station an encampment of troops. Some of the officers 
 at the bungalow — we were soon acquainted, breakfasting and 
 dining together. This afternoon had a gallop of ten miles to 
 overtake my luggage. Passed a large quantity of cotton going 
 to Bombay. They put it up in coarse nets of rope. To cheat in 
 weight they foolishly put stones and dirt in the centre. Saw 
 numbers of banyan trees ; the suckers drooping from the branches 
 taking root, completely surround the parent trees with an inci- 
 pient forest. There are trees like a leafless walnut, with crimson 
 flowers; I only saw one within my reach, and that my horse 
 made me break. 
 
 February 3d — ^Yesterday got into the ghauts (hills), and started 
 
152 from: wat.l street to cashmere. 
 
 to-day at half-past four, got to the bungalow with my gora-walla 
 (groom), who always follows on foot, and had a nap of two hours 
 and a half before the two carts and servants got in. Quite a 
 luxury when one can't retire until ten, and then up again at 
 half-past three; for suspicious the servant sometimes neglected 
 my horse, I had watched the grooming, when, I expect, horse 
 and man wished me farther, for he had his skin nearly rubbed 
 off. They have a queer "dodge" here — they manipulate and 
 rub a horse with hands, back, and elbows, after the manner of a 
 Turkish bath, first tying his head and fastening on heel ropes — a 
 long rope secured at one end to a peg in the ground, the other to 
 two short ropes each fastened to a hind leg at the fetlock. This 
 style of grooming is considered very beneficial, though not agree- 
 able to the animal, if one may judge by the way he rolls his eyes. 
 From the breakfast bungalow on to this by a beautiful ghaut. 
 
 February 4^/i, Nassack. — Started at h alf-past three, on a bacli road 
 and new bridge ; passed tents of engineers engaged in road-making 
 and saw the foundation of a " settlement" in western lingo. The 
 natives always live in villages, and in laying out one make a number 
 of raised places like flower beds and build on them. By the wil- 
 fulness or stupidity of my butler we were brought here instead 
 of to Trimbuc, a holy Hindoo place, the " western Juggernaut," 
 and butler is a Mussulman, or as near one as they ever are in this 
 country, with as much caste as a Hindoo. So I've ordered a 
 ' bullock cart to be here at two in the morning to take " Ireland 
 Sahib" and " Butler Sahib" to Trimbuc. Met here a gentleman 
 in a cart drawn by Coolies (low caste natives), from Calcutta, via 
 Delhi and Benares, to Bombay ; been on the road since the first 
 of November. He had met Bayard Taylor travelling night and 
 day in a post-cart. He ought to find correspondence profitable 
 as it costs about twenty-five dollars a day here, and yet his 
 descriptions wonderfully accurate with such speed. 
 
 Trimbuc, Februanj 9ih. — A horrid night, came in at eight, the 
 
THE "MOUNTAIN" PILGRIMAGE." 153 
 
 only lodging the privilege of a shed,, and even water denied me : 
 but I raised sucli a " I'ow" I got some. AVhile breakfast was 
 • preparing, I wandered into one of the temples, and was just 
 arranging for a sketch, when I was startled from my reveries by 
 a furious uproar, and found I was polluting the sanctity of the 
 place, and had only just been discovered. But I had time to see 
 the temple, if I could not sketch it. The sculpture was fine and 
 elaborate. After breakfast I left with a guide for the "Mountain 
 of Pilgrimage." In passing out I saw a curious figure with one long 
 leg resting on the body of a monkey : it looked for all the world 
 like a man with the upper part of his body enveloped in a " fool's- 
 cap." They were dashing water on this figure, and covering it with 
 flowers. Saw a tank surrounded on three sides by an arcade 
 with beautifully carved columns supporting arches ; this, I sup- 
 pose, was particularly holy, for they raised an outcry as I 
 approached it. Then a bazaar where red peppers and bracelets 
 of brass, iron, and glass, seemed the prevailing merchandise. 
 
 The greater part of the ascent of the mountain is by granite 
 steps. I counted seven hundred, and there were at least two 
 hundred more. At the top, a small lodge with a female idol, 
 before which they prostrated themselves. Its visible attractions 
 a quantity of red paint, white eyes, and a ring in her nose. After 
 the prostrations, they called for water, which an old Brahmin 
 poured over them, and they paid a fee for the process. Then 
 they betook themselves to feeding a " gang of monkeys," hopping, 
 sliding, scrambling, and tumbling down an almost perpendicular 
 rock three hundred feet high. On landing they began stufiing 
 and fighting. The very young ones looked fanny : they fasten 
 themselves to their mothers with their fore paws to her neck, and 
 part of their body between her fore legs, and their hind legs 
 holding on to her sides, — you scarcely notice them at first. I was 
 amused at the greeting of two patriarch monkeys, walking up as 
 gravely as human beings, embracing each other's neck with a hug 
 and then off to feed. I displayed my magnificent but undeveloped 
 artistic genius to the natives, whom I ought certainlj- to admire 
 
154 FEOM WALL STKEET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 as my sketches elicit very mucli more admiration from them than 
 they ever will from any one else. To-day has been a great fete 
 here. 
 
 February Qtli^ Nassack. — Last night off at six, and at ten was 
 waked by a lurch of the cart — " a spill" — and a blow on my head. 
 I was perfectly enveloped in the ruins, with head down and heels 
 up, and everything on top of me. I called for help, but could 
 hear nothing but fearful groans, so I picked myself up the best 
 way I could, and when the butler and driver found I was not 
 hurt, they discovered it had been all a mistake about their own 
 injuries. As soon as I got to sleep, my driver went to sleep, and 
 we jogged on or not as the humor seized the bullocks. I had 
 a letter from Capt. W. for the ofiicer of this district, but he not 
 being at home I called to see his deputy, " pro tem." — Dr. K., a 
 very nice person, who presented me to his wife and asked me to 
 return in the afternoon and dine. 
 
 They told me that the tree I spoke of with the red flowers was 
 the Pungra. This afternoon rode round the town ; there are 
 many handsome temples here, and one is beautiful. Crossed the 
 river on an odd bridge, with wide openings between the large 
 flat stones ; and I stupidly leaped the gaps on this smooth stone ; 
 luckily, my horse landed me safe every time, or I should have 
 been in a bad fix, and left to drown by the natives, except I 
 might be taken out to avoid polluting the water. Nassack, next 
 to Trimbuc, is the most sacred place in this part of the country ; 
 and it is only within the last eight years, that they have allowed 
 beef to be killed here. 
 
 Feh. Ith^ Nadood. — My stupid servants brought me twenty 
 miles out of my way to-day, and so I wandered on until ten this 
 evening, before finding any place. Here is a half-way village 
 and sort of temple precinct. The people were not dis|)0sed to 
 let my servants in the gate, but I rode up and told them to open 
 it, and seeing a wide veranda filled with people, the most com- 
 modious place here, told my servants to bring an " action of eject- 
 
AX OBLIGING POSTMASTER. • 155 
 
 ment," not by legal, but necessitous and muscular process if neces- 
 sary, while I, in an imaginary robe of judicial ermine, with the 
 horse and "pig-skin" — for "woolsack" — saw that justice was 
 done to one party, if not to the other. And now, while "Butler 
 Sahib " and cook are getting dinner, I am in my bed, surrounded 
 by "musquito bars," and an admiring crowd of niggers (as they 
 term the natives here), journalizing. To-day saw them making 
 sugar, crushing the stalk or cane between two upright rollers, when 
 the juice is boiled to a thick paste and allowed to harden, arriving 
 at the consistence of wet brown sugar, when it is called " gowgray." 
 This evening forded the Godavery^wr times ; it is now very 
 low, but deep in summer. Passed to-day great numbers of wild 
 fig trees, reddened by a small fruit looking like cherries, which 
 is eaten by the natives ; also quantities of ripe prickly pears. 
 
 Feb. 8th. — I am finishing this under a dirty little shed. I find 
 that last night I was sleeping in an old temple side by side, 
 "cheek by jowl," with old Brahma and his two associates, they 
 keeping watch, as if we had been the best of friends all our lives. 
 
 Through a rich, level country. Collected a lot of grain, 
 wild flowers, and tlieir seeds, some in full bloom for my herba- 
 rium, — others with seeds ripe. So as my men are a long ways 
 ahead, I must close this and follow. My little grey stands gazing 
 and wondering at what I am doing, while his gora-walla lies at 
 his feet, far away in the "land of dreams." The little birds arc 
 flitting about, sometimes so close they graze my head. This 
 morning went by a beautiful temple ; having no religious preju- 
 dices, I sat down on a neighboring god to sketch : but soon found 
 such an infinitude of detail, I gave it up. 
 
 Feb. 9 th, Bajapore. — This morning I gave my letter to the 
 postmaster here, to post for Bombay, and as probably the first 
 letter he had ever sent, insisted most strenuously he must direct 
 it ; so I consented, on condition he put it on the back of the 
 letter, and you will have a specimen of Mahratta. 
 
156 FKOM WALL STllEET TO CASILMERE. 
 
 My lodgings last night were at Ropergaum, a former palace of 
 the Rajah's, now a government bungalow ; a famous place, with 
 courts and galleries, the walls and ceilings prettily colored. 
 
 In my journey to-day, passed two pretty chapels or temples ; 
 stopped to look at one where an old fellow was ringing a bell, 
 manipulating and mumbling in real Catholic style ; but, on hear- 
 ing the tread of my horse, the " Old Adam " was too strong: so 
 he gratified his curiosity, and gave Brahma's or Siva's (I don't 
 know whether he was praying to the good, or propitiating the bad 
 deity) ears a respite while he stared at me. After this counted 
 forty- one antelopes, seven of them black bucks, crossing the road 
 only about two hundred yards ahead of me. By bad luck my 
 rifle was at the bottom of the cart. I am now lodged in a Hindoo 
 temple, and some thirty vagabonds with swords congregating 
 around me every few minutes, using as a pretext to come nearer, 
 a desire to say their prayers to Brahma, when they come in and 
 ring a bell. 
 
 O 5 
 
 Feb. Will, Allora or Erala. — Got here at nine last evening 
 the only objects of interest during the day, twenty antelopes. This 
 morning, stopped to breakfast in a large temple, but the devotees 
 raising an objection, and not being proud, I took possession of a 
 small one. Saw a religious procession, and a squeaky pipe (like 
 a bagpipe), making such sweet music, I don't think any but a 
 "Sandie" could have told the difference. Found no bungalow, 
 and not liking the heavens for a canopy, I suggested the propriety 
 of about fifUj people giving u^^ a piazza they were all living 
 under, and letting me have it. As my request, uttered in a loud 
 tone that they might all hear in case any were deaf, showed no 
 alternative, they "sloped" and I "squatted." The proceeding 
 was cool, but you know I have rather an antipathy to strangers — 
 my vis-a-vis was the tomb of some great man, over whom they 
 appear to be having " a wake," by the great " Tom-tom drum " and 
 chorus, as they madly march around the tomb, shouting Dome, 
 Dome (the name of the man) ; so you can imagine my felicity 
 
THE ROCK TEMPLES AT ELLORA. 157 
 
 under this infernal din, not thirty feet from me. I am in quiet 
 possession, "barring" this "music of the spheres," and a few 
 lizards Avho are peeping into my carpet-bag. 
 
 Feb. lliA, Ellora. — They gave old Dome another "wake " this 
 morning. After breakfast to the " caves," passing a beautiful 
 temple I sketched, and a fine tank, a hundred and fifty feet 
 square, and thirty feet down to the water. Tlien the " caves," 
 commencing in inverse order with the Brahmin and working up 
 to the Bhuddist. The caves are high up a lofty hill-side, and 
 excavated from the ledge of rock. They are scattered along a 
 distance of a mile and a half, about thirty-four in number. Those 
 of the early Bhuddists are simple, consisting merely of veran- 
 das and cells called " viharas." Next are the Chaitya. Several 
 are fine, and much larger than those I saw at Salsette. One has 
 a spacious court, seventy feet square, and a fine colonnade on the 
 sides. Inside of this, handsome columns that support a music 
 gallery, with a fine nave, surrounded on three sides by triple 
 columns supporting the side walls, from which spring fine arches 
 that extend round the temple ; at the extremity of this temple, 
 a kind of dome, in front of which Bhudda sits on a throne with 
 an attendant on either side, and flying figures over his head; 
 this is called the " Biswarkama." 
 
 Then comes the finest thing I've ever seen in the way of a tem- 
 ple, called the "Kylas." This is not only an excavated temple, 
 but the whole face of the rock has been removed, except what 
 was necessary to work up into, or sculpture out into, a magnifi- 
 cent temple; for every part is just where nature put it, like a 
 piece of statuary. This has a court, forty feet wide on every side, 
 and the rock near two hundred feet perpendicular height, at the 
 deepest excavation down to the court yard. The court is about 
 a hundred and fifty feet wide by two hundred deep. It is sur- 
 rounded by cells or " viharas." The temple, a succession of 
 chapels and verandas, with finely sculptured columns. All 
 around the exterior most elaborate alto-relievos. Two elephants 
 
158 FROM WAT.L STREET TO CASIIMEllE. 
 
 stand in the court yard ; besides in various parts, sculpture of the 
 most revolting description, as one of the engines brought into 
 the contest between the Brahmins and Bhuddists, was sensuality, 
 and pandering to the passions, as the Brahmins did. This 
 temple was finished by the Brahmins, just after the contest was 
 over. There arc a number of these beautiful temples. Also 
 several temples of the Jahn, who are seeeders from the Bhuddists. 
 These temples are fine, and all have cross-legged figures called 
 " Thiethankers." 
 
 February 12th, EozAT. — This morning getting my usual bene- 
 fit of serenading, which T have night and morning, I set off again 
 to the caves, sketching ; and this afternoon followed my people 
 to Rozat, which is about a mile distant on the summit of the 
 mountain, where I found my bedstead and curtains, with table, 
 etc., arranged under a tree, instead of one of the many Mus- 
 sulmanic tombs, which are like small houses for size. The 
 bungalow belonged to the ofl&cers in the Nizam's service (the 
 European contingent). So I explored a tomb, and was returning 
 to have my things removed to it, when the present occupant of 
 
 the bungalow, Dr. B , came up ; finding I was a traveller, 
 
 with true Indian hospitality he at once asked me to be his guest, 
 and told my servant to take my things to the bungalow, and to 
 tell his people to put them in one of the rooms, and get dinner 
 for me. Learning I was an American, he shook me warmly by the 
 hand, saying he had known so many agreeable countrymen of 
 mine at Canton, in the last war with China, and regretted he 
 had not known I was below, as he had been " detailed " to examine 
 all the old ruins of the country, and was, consequently, " well 
 up" in cave temple matters, and could have given me much 
 information. So he gave me a lecture, and in the bungalow 
 books on the subject, as the next day he had to return to Au- 
 rungabad. 
 
 February IStli, RozAT. — This morning Dr. B, (my friend of 
 
AURUNGABAD. 159 
 
 last evening) started for Aurungabad, leaving me in possession 
 of the bungalow, ■with, a promise to be his guest when I go to 
 Aurungabad, and he is to send me an order I wished for Dowlata- 
 bad fortress. To-day at the caves again, sketching. Aurungzebe, 
 the last of the Moguls, is buried here, beneath a handsome, though 
 modest tomb, at his special desire, to show the world the end of 
 all greatness, pomp, and power, instead of a more magnificent 
 one, like those of his predecessors. He died at Ahmednuggar, 
 in 170G, in his 89th year, and 50th of his long and eventful 
 reign, during which he made war against his father, deposing 
 and imprisoning him, putting to death his three brothers and all 
 their sons, and eventually some of his own. At all times he was 
 most unscrupulous in the means to maintain his power. The 
 luxury of his camp was carried to an unheard of extent. Every- 
 thing that could contribute to luxury in Delhi was carried with 
 him on his campaigns, and with all this, his own habits were so 
 simple, they were actually carried to austerity. He was a bigot, 
 and most unpopular with the Hindoos, from tearing down some 
 of their temples, and using the materials to build mosques, par- 
 ticularly at Benares. He re-imposed the capitation tax on the 
 Hindoos, and forbid the public celebration of their festivals ; nor 
 would he employ any Hindoos for offices of trust. 
 
 FehriLary 14:ih, Aurungabad. — Off here on the arrival of my 
 order for Dowlatabad (" The Hill of God ") which I received this 
 morning. Got there at twelve. While I sent in my order, 
 found I had most unconsciously excited the ire of the people by 
 seating myself on the altar of a household god, while I ate an 
 orange, and was wondering what they were making such a " fuss" 
 about. After lunch, I rode through three separate walls {two of 
 them double) in the space of half a mile ; at last reached the foot 
 of this wonderful " hill fortress," which I wound up by a tunnel 
 cut in the rock, crossing a famous fosse, forty feet wide, filled 
 with water, and surrounding the fort on three sides. Eising from 
 this, a perpendicular rocky wall of from forty to sixty feet in 
 
160 FRO.M AVALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 lieiglit, then on three hundred feet of upward winding. If well 
 fortified, provisioned, and defended, it would be as impregnable as 
 Gibraltar. It is now deserted with the exception of a nominal 
 governor. In the days of native warfare it must have exhausted 
 their military science with its formidable fortification. It presents a 
 singular appearance, descending the mountain to the j)lain coming 
 from Rozat. A square, isolated hill, with the former sloping 
 sides removed, and now showing only a scarped rock of forty to 
 sixty feet on all sides, and the whole rising to a point in the 
 centre. It is about three hundred feet high. On the eastern 
 side of the fortress, start five walls, one being three or four miles 
 in circuit. The other four are inner, and double. The town is 
 of very ancient date, having been in existence at the time of Alex- 
 ander, though now it has only a few miserable houses. Thence, 
 on over a continuation of the plain (I was traversing a few days 
 since) to Anrungabad, containing a few trees, and so effective as 
 a screen, that they entirely obscure the view of the city. On m}'' 
 arrival at the bungalow, whither I found my people had pre- 
 ceded me, I was met by Dr. B., who came running across from 
 his tent as I dismounted, with the last newspaper, and an invita- 
 tion to me from the division here, for the mess and farewell 
 dinner to their General, who was about leaving the country, and 
 going home to see his mother^ to live, after a continued residence 
 in the country of over forty years. By the time I had toileted, 
 they blew the bugle, so we walked over to the mess-room, where 
 we found the oflSicers with their wives, daughters, or sisters, all 
 assembled or arriving. After dinner, by way of a " digester " I 
 suppose, we had dancing, waltzing, and polking, when, for want 
 of better performers, I assisted " on the light fantastic toe," for the 
 first time I fancy in three years. Then singing, altogether a 
 very pleasant affair. About forty were present. I have invita- 
 tions to dinner for every day while I am here. 
 
 Fdiruary loth, Aurungabad. — This morning Dr. B. and I 
 rode to the tomb of the wife of Aurungzebe, one of the last of 
 
WINGED LIONS, 161 
 
 the Mogul emperors. It is a very beautiful work in white mar- 
 ble. Breakfasted at the "mess," and this afternoon took a ride, 
 and then a dinner party at the house of the son-in-law of the 
 General, whom I met here. Dr. O., my host of this evening, 
 invited me to accompany him in about ten days, on a "pig- 
 sticking expedition" (as they term wild boar hunting in this 
 country, which is done on horseback, the hunter armed with a 
 short stout spear) ; but the time was too far ahead, so I had to 
 decline, much against my inclination. 
 
 Fehruary IQth.' — Same amusements to-day as yesterday — 
 club, breakfast, riding. This evening a dinner party at Cap- 
 tain H.'s. 
 
 Fehruary Vlth. — Moved this morning from the bungalow to 
 Dr. B.'s house, which he has just taken, having, while absent 
 for the past six months temple-and-ruin-exploring, made his 
 tent his home. After breakfast I called to see an officer who 
 was very anxious to show me some choice guns and pistols, of 
 which he has a fine collection. My German "telegraph rifle" 
 and "Colt's revolver" were new and interesting to him. We 
 then had some pistol practice with gun cotton. The adjutant 
 
 of the regiment, a Lieutenant F , came in — he is a lineal 
 
 descendant of Oliver Cromwell, on which he greatly prides him- 
 self. Evening dined at the mess. 
 
 February l^ih.—A breakfast party to-day ; and then Dr. B. 
 showed me drawings of some "winged lions" he had discovered 
 in a cave. He is now preparing them to send to the Asiatic 
 Society as curiosities, being the first found in India. This even- 
 ing I shall start by palanquin for the Caves of Ajunta, seventy 
 miles off. Two sets of bearers went on last night, and I suppose 
 are on the ground now. 
 
 February IM, AJUNT.^,— Started last night at nine, and 
 
 11 
 
1G2 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 travellinsji; all nio;lit, came in at five p.m. The motion was a 
 constant jar, and not at all comfortable, especiaJlj to my head. 
 Nothing to be seen or heard on the road, except the unmelodious 
 chant of my bearers, who counted thirteen for each stage of twenty- 
 four miles, marching at the rate of four an hour. The palanquin 
 is an oblong box, about four feet high, three and a half wide, 
 and seven long ; a cushion on the cane bottom, a pillow, and 
 places for books, provision, etc., as may be needful for the jour- 
 ney. I was rather puzzled how to get in the first time my 
 servant brought me one. But not liking to betray my igno- 
 rance, I looked grave, laid my hand in the centre of the cushion, 
 and with a hitch and a jerk, tumbled myself in, as if I was 
 "up to snuff," and that was my ordinary way of getting in a 
 palanquin. 
 
 Ajunta is surrounded by a wall, as is every town I've yet 
 seen in India — all constructed for defence, but, like most of the 
 others, a wreck of former prosperity. Captain G., to whom I 
 had a letter, was out shooting — his wife in England ; so the ser- 
 vant provided me with quarters, and I composed myself to sleep 
 in the veranda. About dark. Captain G. returned, and I was 
 woke up by hearing some one knocking about and blowing up 
 the servants, (as he afterwards told me for not making me more 
 comfortable). He appeared glad to see me, and proved a very 
 good fellow. He had been picketing bullocks, to bait a tiger 
 seen in the neighborhood. 
 
 February 20tJi, Ajunta. — Before daylight on a pony with 
 three servants for the caves, while Captain G. and a lot of others 
 went off to look for traces of the tiger — but did not find any. 
 The caves are situated in the hollow semicircle of a mountain, 
 half way up its side. They are sixteen in number, all Bhuddist ; 
 and were formerly richly painted, this, however, has mostly dis- 
 appeared — thanks to man and time — the relics of them Captain G. 
 is copying. He had one large copy nearly finished, when some 
 natives, in the absence of the guard, cut it out of the frame, 
 
THE CAVES AT AJUNTA. 163 
 
 fancying, from its strength, it would "make up well" into 
 clothes. They were afterwards discovered, and consigned to the 
 Nizam's jail, where they will probably spend the rest of their 
 lives, unless released by the English. The canvas they destroyed 
 for fear of detection. Captain G. showed me some exquisite 
 pencil copies. There are four Chaitya caves, one beautiful, and 
 the walls with fine panels of sculpture. In one part a colossal 
 figure reclining, though the positions of some figures are very ludi- 
 crous ; some holding up their hands quite schoolboy-like, others 
 napping or reclining — many in a sort of unjointed, crosslegged 
 position. Bhudda was sitting composedly on his throne in front 
 of the dome-like afiair that always adorns the rear of these tem- 
 ples. The fine fronts and screens that ornament the one at 
 Ellora, are here wanting; but the fagade is finely sculptured. 
 Many of the earlier temples had small cells for the priests — a 
 sort of monastic arrangement. The exterior effect of these tem- 
 ples is much finer than that at Ellora. I only got two small 
 sketches ; supposing Captain Gr. was to join me, I had not the 
 assurance to produce my meagre efforts before the first artist of 
 India. On returning I found my host "getting up a mail" for 
 England, and his apothecary (government has one at every 
 station to do small practice) going out for a chance-shot at the 
 tiger. The elephant leaves him in a tree, the men surround the 
 jungle— (in this case a thick patch of low brush), and throw 
 stones in to frighten the tiger while the elephant beats the place. 
 This elephant had been a very fine one, but getting hurt by a 
 tiger once, now "turns tail." An acquaintance told me he was 
 on him some days smce, when he ran into the woods, nearly 
 killing the mahout (liis postillion !), that he heard the mahout's 
 bones crack, and saved himself by jumping off. I am now 
 three hundred and thirty miles east of Bombay, the farthest I 
 shall go in this Presidency. 
 
 Februarij 2lst, ToKA.— Yesterday, after dinner I started on my 
 return and reached Aurungabad at ten. Breakfasted, and with a 
 
164: FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 good-bye to my host Dr. B , off again at twelve after my 
 
 people, who started last night. Arrived here at midnight with 
 twelve tedious hours in the saddle, and, with luck, shall say 
 bon nuii at three in the morning. 
 
 February 22f7, Emanpoore. — A hot, tedious ride often hours 
 to-day. Added some seeds and grain to my collection for you 
 and father. All day over the plains; at sunset reached the 
 ghauts and a spring. I hardly know which enjoyed it most, the 
 " bonnie grey " or I. I have never suffered so much from heat 
 or thirst in my Hfe as to-day. At the bungalow, a family, luckily 
 a snug vacant corner left, which I took. 
 
 February 23c7, Ahmednuggur. — Starting early, arrived at 
 nine this morning, A nice place and military station. Four 
 American missionaries are here; three with their families, the 
 fourth a lady — Miss Farrow. It is said that some years ago, when 
 she first came, she had "a proposal" from the "Eesident," — a per- 
 son most respected, good family, high in ofiice, and wealthy ; but 
 she preferred her duty to wealth and rank. I called on one of the 
 missionaries, who introduced me to the others, and invited me to 
 return and spend the evening with them. I did, and found there 
 was a "prayer meeting." Of the number present, one was an 
 English officer, apparently a regular attendant. The missionaries 
 told me their labors here had met with much success, having one 
 iiundred and fifteen converts besides a large school! They 
 seemed delighted to see a compatriot, and said they had never 
 known of but one other who had been here. A mile from 
 the town stands a massive old fort with wide and deep fosse, the 
 walls with circular buttresses and towers like " Black Anoiers." 
 
 February 24:th, Seroox. — Starting early stopped at eleven, 
 when I divided seven hours between eating, sleeping, and writ- 
 ing letters. This morning as I was leaving Ahmednuggur, 
 was passed hj a regiment of artillery from Poonah. In march- 
 
AMATEUR MEDICAL PRACTICE, 165 
 
 ing, they start early enough to accomplish, their twelve miles (a 
 march) by sunrise. Got here at eleven this evening, a charm- 
 ing ride. A jackal and fox crossed the road. Passed several 
 encampments of waggons with corn for Bombay. This even- 
 ing I had occasion to practise medicine on my gora-walla. I 
 expect with my extensive practice, I shall become quite skil- 
 ful, and on my return be looked upon as one of the lumina- 
 ries of the profession. Fortunately my practice has been on my 
 servants and not myself, or I might betray a want of confidence 
 in my own skill. The man was a Hindoo, and my butler said 
 would not take the medicine out of any of my things ; so I told 
 him to bring something of his own. He brought his only dish, a 
 copper basin about fifteen inches in diameter, and eight or nine 
 deep. Then he must have some water to mix it ; he could not 
 touch any brought for me, so, sick as he was, he must go to the 
 river, nearly a mile ofi", and then would have to pass through the 
 camp and be arrested for wandering about at that hour of the 
 night, I gave the bungalow Sepoy some coppers to accompany 
 him and the bullock men, for the poor superstitious fellows were 
 all in the " same box," and would have been obliged to fast till 
 to-morrow, or otherwise they would not have been able to get 
 water to cook their frugal meal. They returned, and I mixed 
 and administered the dose of salts — the first I fancy ever given 
 from so copious a vessel. 
 
 February 2oth, LooNEE BUNGALOW. — In leaving at day-break 
 saw the Irregular Cavalry manoeuvring. To-day I dried some 
 guava seeds for my collection. The fruit is of a rich lemon color, 
 shaped like a vergalieu'pear ; the odor disagreeable, but flavor tole- 
 rably pleasant. The mangrove trees are all in bloom ; the leaf a 
 bright green, shaped like the lemon, but narrower ; the tree large 
 and handsome, not unlike a fine black walnut. The flower is 
 white and small; grows in clusters, and only pretty from the 
 number. Saw at Ahmednuggur a beautiful large lilac flower, on 
 what appeared to be a fruit tree, but could not learn its name. 
 
166 FROM WALL STREET TO CASnMERE. 
 
 The country I have lately passed through is almost as destitute 
 of trees as Spain, Shortly I expect to do my travelling in the 
 night, and rest daytimes — the way they always manage here in 
 the warm weather. I shall dislike it most, from being obhged to 
 keep with my people, and thus go slower and be longer in the 
 saddle. Bullocks are almost the only animals used here for 
 burdens, native conveyance or travel ; — occasionally a country- 
 man on his miserable pony passes. The bullocks are badly 
 yoked to the carts; if with boxes or racks, stupidly balanced 
 on their backs. They are small, strong built, active animals, 
 with the hind quarters drooping like a grej'hound. The tongues 
 of the carts are formed of two pieces ; starting from either side 
 of the axle-tree and converging to a point, thus making a wide 
 seat, where the driver sits — for thej^ never walk, and here part 
 of the load is placed. 
 
 The bullocks are guided by a rope that runs through their 
 nose, assisted by a pull of the tail in the opposite direction! 
 The speed, increased by the whip, though usually with a punch 
 in the ribs from the fingers, as they sit so close to the animal. 
 They are yoked wide apart, with a short bar or bolt on either 
 side of the neck from the yoke, and the t^vo ends are connected by 
 a rope passing under their necks. The bolts also serve to push 
 against instead of a bow when they have a heavy load. The 
 horns of the cattle take the most curious turns, and twist upwards, 
 downwards, and all sorts of ways. Those of the domestic buf- 
 falo usually turn backward. I've seen horns three feet long. 
 The ploughs are huge formidable things, the beam like the trunk 
 of a tree. The only grains they cultivate are wheat, a sort of 
 millet such as I sent from Egypt, rice, and a small grain they 
 call gram, hard and pea-shaped. Horses are fed with it. It is 
 usually ground, and considered less heating and more strength- 
 ening than oats. Owing to the ridiculous castes, the people are 
 all obliged to cook their own food, and near a large encampment 
 the air, at morning and evening, is loaded with a smoky mist. 
 In my little establishment, there are jifteen meals a day cooked ; 
 
Sketched by the Author. 
 
 OLD i:.\r,l.ISIl TOMH. SI'KAT. 
 
POONAH. 167 
 
 viz. my three, butler a Mussulman, his two, the cook a Portu- 
 guese, the mussal a general attendant, of another caste, the gora- 
 walla (who keeps with the horse wherever he goes, a sort of 
 individual who is supposed never to tire ; for instance, he is 
 expected to take care of his horse three times a day, and the 
 grooming, no sinecure business, besides walking from twenty to 
 thirty-two miles per diem) he is another caste Hindoo ; then the 
 two bullock drivers, they often belong to different castes. 
 Luckily they all feed themselves, and I've nothing to do with 
 the matter. The Portuguese are usually the cooks of this part 
 of India, and in every establishment you see one of those cada- 
 verous, half starved, long-haired objects. From the scarcity of 
 wood, cattle excrement is used for fire, and I constantly see 
 women and children walking miles collecting it with their bas- 
 kets on their heads, for they never pretend to caxTy anything in 
 their hands that can possibly rest on their heads, 
 
 Felruary 26lh, PooNAH. — The band was playing when I 
 came in, as when I arrived at Ahmednuggur. Coming in ahead 
 of my people I saw, in the midst of half naked, sunburnt, and 
 turbaned Hindoos and Mussulmen, a Highlander, bare legged, 
 plumed, and plaided, on guard (a most funny looking object in 
 this red hot climate). I asked him where the bungalow was ; 
 he pointed to the road and said, " I think ahead ; I recollect 
 seeins; a board there with 'turn to the right' on it." Another 
 man pointed it out fifty yards from where I stood, unfortunately 
 for "Sandie's" bright directions. 
 
 February 26/A, Poonah. — The officer acquaintance I expected 
 to find here, is ordered elsew^here, so I've wandered through the 
 town. There are three European and three or four native regi- 
 ments stationed here, this being the head-quarters of the Bom- 
 bay army. I've seen and collected many flowers for my herba- 
 rium, some shaped similar to the oleander, but white. 
 
 Feb. 21 ill. — To church on horseback — the usual way here for gen- 
 tlemen. This afternoon most of the regiments were under arms. 
 
168 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHitERE. 
 
 Februai-y 2Sth, Karlee Caves. — Just before starting last 
 night, my servant said a gentleman in the next room wished to 
 see me. An American physician from China here for his health. 
 He came in for permission to accompany me. So ofi" we started 
 in our " Seagrams," — very long cabs on two wheels drawn by 
 oxen. Reached here at daylight, and off a mile and a half for 
 the bungalow. Found an artist copying the sculpture for govern- 
 ment. While I was arranging myself for a sketch, the Doctor 
 sat looking at the cave with his elbows on his knees and chin in 
 hand ; at last turning to me said, " What do you think it would 
 cost to get up such a thing in America? " The temple shows the 
 remains of a court and fine fagade, somewhat similar to the 
 great Chait3'a caves at Salsette and Ajunta, though the columns 
 of this have very fine capitals, and the nave the largest of any of 
 this style of temples. There are wooden arches, and in the rear 
 a plain dome. On some of the columns are very ancient inscrip- 
 tions. I took an irajDression of several with thick dampened 
 paper, besides sketches of the temple. Among the evening visi- 
 tors to the temple are tigers, so that the servants are obliged to 
 have gates ; also boa constrictors and monkeys by day and night. 
 The Doctor and I parted here, he for Bombay and I back to 
 Poonah to continue my rambles through India. 
 
 March 1st, Somew^here! — With the heavens for a canopy, 
 reached Poonah by daylight ; sent off my people, with a new head 
 to my cuisine. For several days past, I have been subjected to the 
 skill, science, and results of the contending aspirants for that 
 office. Now have one whose smihng face aJone is almost a 
 recommendation after the late ghostly incumbent of the office. 
 At four I started, traversing the length of the native town, which 
 is very extensive, with a population of 100,000. It contains some 
 odd temples. The "Peishwar " of the Mahrattas lived here : he 
 was the prime minister. The Eajahs for several generations 
 were confined at Sattara ! and country governed by the Peishwar. 
 Passed the celebrated hill fortress of " Segur " (Lion's Den) about 
 
AN" EARLY DINNER. 169 
 
 three miles from the town on a high. hilL Looks more like a 
 French chateau than a formidable fortress. At nine saw a glim- 
 mering light under a tree, found all my people here, mj bed 
 made, and table laid, instead of going on to the bungalow as 
 directed. "I reckon " there was a small " breeze." 
 
 March 2nd, Wye. — Started my men off long before three a.m. 
 Stopped an hour for breakfast ; this evening up a steep, slippery 
 mountain, so dangerous to ascend on horseback, I was obliged to 
 dismount, for the first time in all my wanderings, and then, with 
 two men leading the horse, he could just keep his feet. And the 
 baggage tattoes (ponies) helped up by three men to each. At one 
 A.M. they came to a stream, and plumping my bedstead down, 
 used their lungs vociferously to wake up somebody, and find 
 out where we were. I suggested we should cross and go on ; 
 an hour more brought us to the town, and a mile through it 
 and then over the holy Chrishna, to the bungalow. In passing 
 through the town, it seemed as if a telegraph was at work. Just 
 as we turned into the streets, heard the distant challenges at their 
 opposite ends, for in every town and village there are watchmen 
 at night — relic of former barbarity, when midnight forays 
 were in vogue. Arriving at this place, had to turn gorawalla 
 myself, make a halter and footropes from my bed cord, and a 
 blanket of my bed cover. After I had done the needful in that 
 way, and fed my horse, the gorawalla who had got lost, crawled 
 along soon followed by the rest of the retinue, and at four o^dock 
 in the morning, I had dinner ! Having given my people such a 
 good lesson, by twenty -five hours of steady travel, I " reckon " 
 they will not stop half way at a bungalow again. 
 
 March 3c?, Mahableshwar.— My people off again in good 
 season, notwithstanding their hard work yesterday. I stopped 
 to sketch some fine temples. Eeached this after dark. Made a 
 circuit of the " settlement " to find a bungalow ; not being suc- 
 cessful, retraced my steps after the people, whom I met jogging 
 
170 FROM ^\'ALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 along as leisurely "as if they had the niglit before them," but- 
 ler at their head "hookah" in hand, a gurgling kind of pipe 
 made of a cocoa-nut shell, from its choking noise at every 
 breath my perfect abhorrence ; but I might as well think of " But- 
 ler Sahib's " turning Christian as of abridging his smoking privi- 
 leges ; it would meet with the same success. Then had another 
 turn around the place ; at last found an empty bungalow with 
 open door ; so I stood guard with my people around, while but- 
 ler looked up the Sepoy who had it in charge. While thus 
 occupied, up came two palanquins with torch bearers and a host 
 of hamals (palanquin bearers) and in a few minutes more I found 
 the bungalow was private, and the new comers the lessees, so 
 " made tracks." At last got quarters in a " quasi " place with 
 royal name, the " Victoria Hotel," the " Boniface " a Portuguese 
 of very bull-dog look. I have had a good dinner, and now 
 will judge by his acts and not looks. 
 
 March 4dh. — This morning have been gunsmithing with my 
 rifle and gun which are "under the weather." Nine months of 
 the year everything is " shrunk to a shadow " from the heat — the 
 other three with a corresponding swell from the constant rain. 
 This afternoon rode to "Elphinstone Point," the terminus of a 
 wedge-shaped ravine of great grandeur ; the view superb. You 
 look down an almost perpendicular descent of many hundreds 
 of feet into a dark green valley where five large rivers rise, all 
 flowing in different directions. One, the Chrishna, crossing 
 India and emptying into the Indian Ocean. These rivers you 
 can trace for miles in their meandering course through the val- 
 leys ; beyond is range upon range of mountains, and on a very 
 clear day the ocean ; now a mist is rising. These hills form the 
 great sanitarium and fashionable resort of this presidency during 
 the hot season of March, April, and May : after that follows the 
 rain ; the fall prodigious ; during the three months it is 
 860 inches! In England, have only 26 inches in the year. 
 From this to the source of the Chrishna, which flows into a tern- 
 
A MONSTER PLOUGH. 171 
 
 pie tank from the sacred (stone) cow's mouth. It was dark 
 when I reached the spot, but I could not fail finding it, and 
 marched into the temple with mj guide. The custodian 
 attempted to stop me, but "I was bound" to get a drink of the 
 water with a shooting cup that had been dipped in every water 
 of note since leaving Paris in 1851. As I did not wish to under- 
 stand the opposition I answered in English. He, to make ')ne 
 understand letter, yelled in Hindostanee, and I replying in Eng- 
 lish, slowly advancing and he backing, while in our animated 
 discussion of pros and cons, one or both stood a good chance of 
 going to paradise, or the other place, by a tumble into the tank. 
 We at last reached the spot, when in his disgust at my dulness 
 of comprehension of Hindostanee and his brilliant arguments, 
 let me have my own way, and a drink. To-day have pressed 
 several other kinds of flowers, besides getting many seeds. 
 
 March 6th, Satara. — OS by daybreak, winding down a beau- 
 tiful road for six miles. Passed an invalid ofBicer on his way up ; 
 poor fellow, he looked as if he had but one more journey before 
 him. Saw many beautiful scarlet flowers four inches in diameter 
 with deep cups. The trees, destitute of leaves, bear a kind 
 of cotton used by the natives. Stopped at a bungalow and 
 breakfasted. On either side of the road, mango sprouts, which the 
 natives were watering ; set out by order of government and in a 
 few years will be a superb avenue of sixteen miles in length, 
 the road putting to the blush most of those even in England. 
 Saw many teams of five and six yoke of oxen attached to one 
 plough ; the yoke ten feet in length, the plough a tremendously 
 heavy forked limb; one end forming the beam, another the 
 point, coulter, and mould-board — the third the handle. On the 
 yokes of the third and fifth teams, were nearly naked boys, who 
 were quite composedly wallopping the oxen, while a third stood 
 on the learn of the plough, extending the same kindness to the 
 teams within his reach. The ground was hard baked. Still 
 they ploughed from six to eight inches deep; and though so 
 
172 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 rude the instrument, and without a particle of iron, they did the 
 work very well, though tediously slow — about half an acre a 
 day. I did not get here till eight o'clock, much to my annoy- 
 ance; delayed by my people, besides misinformed as to the 
 distance. When I did arrive, found there was a small dinner 
 party, and sent in my card ; the resident came out to receive me, 
 and put me in charge of a servant, for my room and to toilet. 
 Luckily I had put up an evening suit, and given it to my gora- 
 walla to bring, so I soon made my appearance at the table, where 
 I was introduced to the guests, and had a pleasant evening. Mr. 
 
 , the " resident," expecting me by another route the day 
 
 before, had sent out an escort of Siwars (irregular cavalry) to 
 meet me. 
 
 March 6tJi. — As we were taking a daylight walk in the garden, 
 the servant brought a note saying service commenced at seven I 
 so I hurried home, and he into his palanquin and I in the saddle, 
 cet off. The church is a pretty, neat building, like all I've seen 
 in India. This afternoon Mr. O. proposed taking me to see the 
 late Eajah's palace, as it would be the only opportunity he would 
 have of taking me, since his duties compelled his return to-mor- 
 row "to the district" (some subordinate j)lace within his resi- 
 dency), and he had only come in to meet me. As his horses 
 were in " the district " he sent to the " Eanee's " (widow of the 
 late Eajah), who has "lots," to borrow one. She sent us a most 
 brilliant yellow phaeton. The palace is large, and for a native 
 establishment, very handsome. One, a mirror room with glasses 
 on the four sides and ceiling (more refined than the King of 
 Denmark, who, in his vulgar taste, has the floor with glass also). 
 In another, shone the famous " wag-nac" (tiger's claw), a terrible 
 weapon for "a rough and tumble :" a piece of iron with a hole 
 on the back for the middle finger, in front three sharp steel claws 
 three inches long ; this is shut in the inside of the hand. Siwar- 
 gee was a rebellious general ; and the general of the Mogul 
 Emperor, who was sent against him, being successful, Siwargee 
 
^^ i! lliiiiii :^lllill:, li; 
 
THE IRREGULAR CAVALRY. 173 
 
 proposed a treaty in wliicli the two rival generals, each accom- 
 panied by a servant, and all unarmed, were to meet. At the 
 opening of the meeting they embraced, when Siwargee inserted 
 the " wag-nac " in his adversary's side, and held him until he 
 could " finish " him. Destroying him, he went on until he 
 established the famous Mahratta Empire, which has given the 
 English so much trouble in India at various times. His suc- 
 cessors, not having his energy, the " Peishwars " (prime ministers) 
 shut them up for several generations, and governed the country 
 themselves, until the English got possession, when they reinstated 
 the Eajah. On his death without heirs, five years ago, it reverted 
 to the East India Company, and (this part Satara) forms one of 
 the residencies, with the comfortable income of $30,000 a year, 
 the third appointment in this Presidency. Also saw " Si war- 
 gee's" famous sword, the summer gardens, &;c. ; then Marlee, an 
 immensely sacred place, where a small river empties into the 
 Chrishna (the junctions of rivers in India are always sacred), and 
 temples erected there. Saw several trees with great numbers of 
 flying foxes (a sort of vampire bat), who hang from the branches 
 by their feet, quite regardless of apoplexy. Also lots of monkeys. 
 Several monuments where bodies had been burned — the Ensrlish 
 have stopped that of " Sutteeism" (the widow burning herself), 
 under a very severe penalty against all concerned. There is 
 almost always a dead body burning here. 
 
 March 7tli. — This morning Mr. 0. was off by daylight to the 
 "district," where he is trying some high native officials for bribery. 
 I rode out to see the irregular cavalry exercise. They are con- 
 sidered the most efficient cavalry in India ; the others have a 
 bad habit of running away in an action, and leaving the infantry 
 to do the fighting ; they are paid twelve dollars and a half a 
 month, with which they buy their own horses, feed them, besides 
 clothing and dressing themselves, using the native saddle, with 
 mixed European and native dress, with native arms. I visited 
 the American missionaries here, who were amazed to see an 
 
174 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 American traveller. Then the hill fortress back of the town, an 
 almost inaccessible rock, where they confined the Rajahs. Here 
 a fisli pond with myriads of fish that come to be fed. Counted 
 five or six other hill forts ; the country swarms with them. On 
 my return found a soldier waiting with a note from Mr. O., witli 
 orders to all the heads of villages on my route for days ahead, 
 to furnish what I wished, beside commands for an escort of 
 siwars to accompany as a guard, and a request to know if there 
 was anytliing more he could do for me. 
 
 March 8ih, — This morning went to visit the missionaries ; saw 
 Mr. Wood ; the other, Mr. Everett, had gone to Mahableshwar. 
 They have been here four years, and met with great success ; 
 they have a school of a hundred and twenty scholars. They have 
 frequent disputations in the town, w^hich are well attended ; many 
 of the native population are taking an interest in the subject 
 and erecting a church. They also said there was a great excite- 
 ment among the native population of Bombay in religious 
 matters, and much anxiety to obtain information from tbe 
 missionaries. As far as I have seen and learnt, the largest por- 
 tion of the missionaries in this country and the east generally, 
 are Americans. These last are from the " Green Mountains." 
 To-day have bought a tent, and changed my gorawalla ; the ser- 
 vants get terribly home-sick, and after a few days' travel want 
 to return, and give as an excuse they are sick. I got an 
 additional servant, who is to carry the torch by night, and march 
 an average of twenty-four miles, and put up the tent — all for the 
 enormous wages of three dollars a month. 
 
 ""O" 
 
 March 9th, Poosay Scolee. — My first journey by nigbt. 
 Started at eleven, and "right sorry" to leave my comfortable 
 lodgings. The first moving object I saw, was a snake crossing 
 the road in great haste. My train consists of two bullock carts, 
 drivers, and five servants, with mounted siwars. Some gentlemen 
 had killed a large tiger during the day ; butler, hearing of it 
 
KOONAPOORE. 175 
 
 from the siwars, rushed to me in great alarm, to know if I had 
 my revolver with me. Kept with my people until daylight, 
 and pushed on to the bungalow, where I resigned my horse to 
 the gorawalla, and went to bed. I had been obliged to walk 
 half the night to keep awake. About two, my people arrived 
 with a doleful list of catastrophes in crockery and wine. 
 
 March 10th, KoONAPOORE.— Had sundry starts last night, and 
 one run-away by a pair of spirited little bullocks about three 
 feet high. Wc at last got off by threats of applying my whip 
 to the owners, and a few cuts at the refractory bullock men. As 
 the roads are very bad, it is the custom for every village to furnish 
 four guides and a torch-bearer, besides a yoke of oxen ; so you 
 may imagine it was no trifle at midnight, to raise up four fellows 
 every four or five miles, and start them off in a hurry — espe- 
 cially as they had such an elaborate toilet to make. I set the 
 siwars to work and they did the thing most effectually, with a 
 free distribution of the foot-ropes of their horses on all who 
 refused to be pressed into the service. It was hard, hut tuhat is 
 a poor traveller to do? — ^they wont make roads! I came on 
 ahead with gorawalla and siwar, coming in here about eleven. 
 Fortunately I had given the gorawalla a pillow to bring, and 
 the siwar had a blanket ; so I composed myself on the floor, and 
 slept till six, when the head man of the village arrived, and 
 offered to send a charpoi (native bedstead) and some provisions, 
 which I gladly accepted as I had no news of my people. He 
 was an appointee of Mr. O.'s, and was one of those I had a letter to. 
 Among other things told me he was brought up in a court (really 
 a brother professional!) and now had charge of two hundred 
 villages, in a district twenty miles square ! The people in this 
 country all live in villages or towns. The dinner consisted of 
 some boiled eggs, peppery crackers, butter on a palm leaf, and 
 some buffalo's milk; the tea a failure, his supply being exhausted 
 to my infinite regret. I had much difficulty in obtaining some 
 water, and then not until I had shown my drinking cup, and 
 
176 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 assured tlicm I should not put their things to my mouth. The 
 bats are having a jolly time here, judging from the style they are 
 flying over my head. 
 
 March 11th, JuTT. — Luckily I got the supplies last evening, for 
 my people did not arrive until two hours past midnight, and 
 I found a fast of twenty-four hours fully long enough. Came 
 in this morning about ten miles. My host of last evening made 
 me pay dear for my magnificent " entertainment for man and 
 beast." This morning he made me a visit, and sent for his two 
 watches to set by mine. Last night, the first intelligence of the 
 arrival of my people was, " Massa have cup tea — all ready," and 
 rousing up, and looking round, there it was — the table spread, 
 and in another place my bed ready to lie down again at two 
 o'clock in the morning. The faithful creature, though he had 
 fasted nearly thirty-six hours, and I was asleep, had never 
 stopped to get his own dinner, but at once went to work to get 
 my tea and make me comfortable. 
 
 Our accustomed " row " about distance to be done ; the people 
 (villagers) desiring to go twelve, and I twenty-four miles a day, 
 for they are so wedded to customs, a thousand years old, they 
 would almost as soon die as change, and the English have, singu- 
 larly, fallen into most of their usages. Military marches have 
 been from time immemorial about twelve miles a day, and so, 
 with a military precedent, they insist upon keeping that rate 
 still. 
 
 Soon after starting, Mahomet, "alias" butler, came to me with 
 a most sorrowful face, and complained — '• these nasty people have 
 lost my hubble-bubble " (the gurgling pipe I abhor so much). 
 I fancy in my joy at getting rid of the nuisance, I did not look 
 as sympathetic as I might have done. Been napping on the 
 bed for two hours waiting for the people to make their appear- 
 ance. 
 
 I have adopted the plan of having my bed carried by two 
 Coolies who keep up with my horse, and thus I have a place to 
 
THE GREAT MOSQUE OF IBEAHIM ADIL SHAH. 177 
 
 sleep until tlic retinue arrive. The charge for the two men, is 
 three cents for every two miles, providing me at each of these 
 stages with new men — cheap luxury ! At last my butler has 
 arrived. I asked him where the people were, he replied, " they 
 coming, only little great ways, come more." 
 
 All the evening my bullock men have been salaaming "But- 
 ler Sahib " with profound respect, to get him to intercede for 
 short journeys, which I spoilt by the order to start. Hereafter 
 my retinue is to be increased by the addition of a " Peon " or 
 officer to find what I want on the road. 
 
 March 12th. — Last night passed the tent of some officers ; and 
 this morning we all got lost and not finding any trees as shelter 
 for the tent, took up with a shed, where I have had an audience 
 of twenty or thirty " ragamuffins " all day. 
 
 March 13th, Takota. — Saw some fine temples this morning 
 at the junction of a small stream with the Chrishna. I have 
 been reposing under one end of a shed. At the other a Sepoy 
 is enjoying the same luxury. 
 
 March 14i^, Beejapore. — Arrived at seven this morning ; the 
 approach is ornamented by Mahommedan tombs and temples, 
 some very handsome. The city presents a striking appearance 
 on approaching ; a mile before reaching it, a beautiful mosque, 
 and tomb of Ibrahim Adil Shah II., built as a mausoleum for 
 himself, wife, and children, where I stopped for a glimpse. The 
 city has a lofty wall and moat. Entering by one of its seven 
 gates, I wandered on for half a mile, through scattered ruins, 
 only relieved occasionally by some stately tomb ; then the dou- 
 ble walls of the citadel. Some men were fishing with nets in the 
 broad deep moat. Saw some tents, and two gentlemen riding. 
 
 The men took me to the Great Mosque, but modesty would 
 not allow me to be "the observed of all observers" to every 
 hypocritic vagabond, who chose to indulge in a prayerful fit to 
 
 12 
 
178 FROM WALL STEEET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 gratify liis curiosity in gazing at me. So I declined, when they 
 took me to a snug little mosque, attached to the great tomb of 
 Mohammed Shah. This magnificent tomb has a dome about 
 one hundred and twenty feet diameter, being the second or third 
 in the world. While waiting for my people, clambered up and 
 had a fine view of the country and the city, where reigned a 
 most brilliant d^masty for two hundred years, until destroyed by 
 Aurungzebe, the Mogul Emperor. It has now but a few mud 
 huts for the living ; but its monuments of the dead surpass those 
 of every city in India, except Delhi and Agra; fortifications, 
 palaces, tombs, mosques, with hundreds of wells, bowlies, and 
 tanks. The dome has a fine echo, though it is injured by a 
 crack. My sejjoys and other servants, just at the moment I was 
 trying the echo, were suddenly seized with most painful asth- 
 matic affections, and gave such a volley of coughs and wheezes, 
 Pve hardly got the echo out of my head yet. The tomb was 
 erected by one of the last kings, about two hundred years ago, 
 •and took forty-two years in building. It is square, with 
 octagonal towers at the corners, and each with seven stories of 
 small windows, and the whole surmounted by a dome. It is 
 situated on an immensely large terrace. The tomb has unbroken 
 'Sides, except the three slightly projecting arches in the front and 
 sides. The base around the interior of the tomb is of basalt ; 
 the walls plain, and the whole surmounted by a dome too large for 
 the building, and rivalling St. Paul's in London for size; the 
 interior is an unbroken space, save the platform in the centre, 
 where lay the remains of Mohammed Shah, his wife, and his 
 favorite dancing girl ! 
 
 As my servants were arriving and civilizing my tomb domicil, 
 I set off to the Post-office at the other side of the city, where I 
 found one package that in its wanderings after my erratic steps 
 had acquired about as much writing on the outside in re-directions 
 as inside in news. I had just returned when the postman came 
 after me with another he had mislaid, which was most welcome, 
 containing nine letters of introduction to all parts of India, from 
 
A VISIT FROM A HYEXA. 179 
 
 a friend at Bombay. As I finislied my letters, I was called out to 
 look at the tent that had been put up, and just as I was returning 
 in a very slight deshabille, up galloped the two officers I had 
 met coming in. My rig, or rather unrig, was bad enough to 
 receive company in, but my stock of furniture worse yet, for 
 reducing the kit to poverty limits, my chairs, divans, and sofas 
 were represented by a poor camp stool, which one took while 
 the other and I divided the bed, which being light for travelling, 
 creaked and groaned under his goodly proportions till I thought 
 we would both be down. They asked me to put on my things 
 and go and dine with them, but I dechned, and am to breakfast at 
 their tomb to-morrow. 
 
 This evening, in the midst of my letter- writing, while seated 
 in the back part of this huge open tomb, which is thickly sup- 
 ported b}^ huge columns — a disconsolate widower has hedged 
 himself and his grief off in one corner — I heard two of the most 
 unearthly squeals, apparently from the very spot where my ser- 
 vants lay asleep, though not twenty -five feet from where I sat. 
 My people sprung up half frightened out of their wits. I shouted 
 and clattered my cane — the hyena " sloped." He had made a 
 mistake — my inconsolable neighbor keeps a small dog. The 
 hyenas prowl around houses and with this squeal attract the dogs, 
 who are nabbed instanter, 
 
 March loth. — Off this morning before dayhgat. As I wished 
 my horse to rest, I had taken a miserable tattoo, with back like the 
 sharp edge of a rail, for guide a " Moonshee," a sort of trans- 
 lator, copyist, and generally useful native scholar. Our first stop 
 was at the Meetrie-Mahal, a small square building with veranda 
 and portico carved in beautiful and elaborate work; I've not 
 seen anything thus far in the East so beautiful. The material is 
 a species of clay-stone, susceptible of very high pohsh. The tra- 
 dition is, it was built by a " sweeper" (the lowest caste). One 
 of the early kings being fatally sick, consulted an astrologer, who 
 told him that on a certain morning he must go out very early, and 
 
180 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 give to the first person lie met a large sum of money, meaning 
 to be tlie recipient himself. But the king rising earlier than 
 usual sallied out, and happened to meet the sweeper of the 
 palace, so accordingly gave him the money, and he built the 
 beautiful structure we have just seen. 
 
 At the fortifications saw the great gun cast by a Turk, at the 
 order of Aurungzebe, to commemorate his victory over these 
 Beejapore sovereigns. It is fifteen feet long and five in diameter 
 at the muzzle. It is made of a peculiar kind of brass composition. 
 The muzzle represents some monster making a mouthful of tivo 
 elephants, who are quietly standing side by side in his mouth. 
 The bore is so large, that when I sat in it, the upper part of the 
 mouth came to my chin, and by computation they say it would 
 require a ball of 2500 pounds. It was discharged when first 
 finished, but the jar overthrew so many houses, and caused such 
 an alarm, a repetition was forbidden. In 1823 the Rajah of Sat- 
 tara had it fii'ed ofi" with eighty pounds of powder ; they have 
 one other gun among the curiosities 30 feet long, and made of 
 bars of iron bound by rings welded togther. 
 
 Went to the tank, built by one of the queens ; it is a hundred 
 and fifty feet square and thirty deep. It is of grey basalt. Climbed 
 to the summit of a tower eighty feet high, with a winding stairs 
 on the outside — erected by one of the kings to perpetuate his 
 name. 
 
 Then the Taj-Bowree, another large tank Or reservoir, built by 
 a wealthy noble ; this is about 300 feet square and fifty feet deep, 
 also of grey basalt and quite handsome with columns and arches. 
 Saw on the way to the citadel, a lofty tower formerly seven sto- 
 ries high, where the queens and ladies of the court retired even- 
 ings for the breeze and to pray ; it is in one corner of a quad- 
 rangle surrounded by little cells. There is a painting almost 
 obliterated in the tower, of Mohammed Shah sitting by the side 
 of his favorite dancing girl, who seems to have been a very impor- 
 tant personage ; adjoining this, and still on the south side, is the 
 Sath-kandi or kitchen, a very large building. Judging from the 
 

 Sketched by the Autlior. See page 151, 
 
 TlIK rATUIAllCHAL EMBRACE. TRIMBUC. 
 
MORE RUINS AND TOMBS. 181 
 
 space allowed for the culinary art, its results must have been a 
 very favorite source of gratification. On to the adolat-khanah: 
 where the king received petitions; this joins the ruins of the 
 Sonah-Mahal or " Golden Palace," now burnt. All of these were 
 built by Ali Adil Shah II. Then the Avada-Mahal, or Harem, 
 large, and three stories high, with a splendid lofty arched entrance. 
 Most of the interior is supported by narrow arches arranged tp 
 be closed if desired ; adjoining this the Doby-Mahal, which I do 
 not understand, as Doby means washerman, whereas this is the 
 counterpart of the harem, and eastern potentates generally have 
 a separate building for themselves, as reception hall and for 
 business. I think it must have been the King's Palace. There is 
 a large tank or basin near by, which may have suggested its name. 
 The gardens are a jungle. On to a curious little mosque, for- 
 merly a Hindoo temple, with a multitude of irregularly arranged 
 columns, the ceiling lo.w, and a second story in one part. It is 
 called the Agrahar, and pertained to the Hindoo College near it. 
 Then the Mecca-Musjid, built by Ali Adil Shah I. 
 
 Thence to the citadel gate, near which is an old ruin with curious 
 sculpture like the caves at Ellora, and some black basalt columns 
 with Kandareese inscriptions, one of the columns curiously carved. 
 
 To the palace of the Asaim Sharif, so called from holding some 
 relics of Mahomet, of course they are very sacred, and only shown 
 once a year. There is nothing of note about the building save 
 the upper rooms, one of them covered with morning glories — the 
 other with partially defaced figures. The faces were the only 
 interesting parts, and some of them were well executed. 
 
 Continued to the unfinished tomb of Ali Adil Shah II., of 
 grey basalt, on a terrace two hundred feet square, and fifteen 
 high, on each side a row of seven lofty arches about twenty-eight 
 feet high, by twenty-two broad. These arches are three feet 
 deep ; in the centre of the building on a raised platform, repose 
 the remains of Ali Adil Shah and some of his family. The rains 
 present a fine appearance; this building was commenced in 
 a moment of vanity, with the intention of its being so enormous 
 
182 FEOM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 as to throw a shadow on the tomb of Mahommcd Shah, which is 
 half a mile or more distant. 
 
 Terminated my morning's work by breakfasting with Hunt 
 and Turner, wlio, like myself, were occupying a tomb. I then 
 rode to the tomb of Mahomed Shah, for H. to try his concertina. 
 The effect was delightful. One of them proposed trying a 
 gun in the dome; so hailed my people from one of the seventh 
 story windows to bring up the rifle — for a gentle experiment ! 
 The noise, fired from where we were on top of the building and 
 base of the dome, was like a cannon. They then proposed firing 
 it near the wall, and one of them went on the opposite side 
 and placed his ear close to the wall, the shock was so great that 
 he was nearly stunned. Retiring to my tomb, I did the honors 
 of the mosque with a "tiffin" (lunch). 
 
 To the citadel, after which, they went home to coj)y some 
 of my sketches, and I to the Great Mosque. The Jumma Mus- 
 jed, or Great Mosque, is, as its name implies, the Mosque of the 
 place ; an arcade encloses the three sides of the quadrangle in 
 front. The portico is supported by fine columns, from every 
 one of which rises a domed ceiling. In the rear, in place of a 
 pulpit or altar, is a recess beautifully ornamented with relievos 
 and inscriptions, or passages from the Koran in Persian. These 
 are in gold, on a ground of black, blue, and red, rich, though not 
 gaudy — Arabic taste arranges the colors so well. There are 
 several other fine tombs, but pleasing only from the exterior. 
 
 March 16th. — Made a daylight sketch of Mahommed Shah's 
 tomb, after lots of trouble from the people about it, " bothering" 
 me for orders and certificates, for they are as pertinacious as 
 obsequious and tedious. At last, off to the Ibraham Eosa or 
 Mausoleum of Ibrahim Adil Shah, outside of the gate. It is a 
 very beautiful building, like a mosque in appearance. The 
 interior is plain, with only the tombs of himself, wife, and those 
 of three or four of his brothers and children. Around the exte- 
 rior of the building is a portico, and the walls covered with 
 
WELLS AT BEEJAPOEE. 183 
 
 scroll work, except where relieved by passages from the Koran, 
 in Arabic characters of gilt on a colored ground — the effect 
 exceedingly rich. The mosque on the opposite end of the ter- 
 race, is much like the Java Musjed ; returning home stopped to 
 sketch the Ibraham Kosa, where Hunt and Turner told me an 
 amusing account the siwars gave them of me the day I arrived, 
 when they inquired who I was, they said, "Oh! Sahib is an 
 engineer Sahib, and busy drawing all the cities, he looks at 
 them one day and draws them the next — and so quick ; (then 
 casting a very supercilious look around, said) why he would 
 take everything in this place in two or three hours ! " They being 
 sketchers themselves, had a good laugh at the wonderful per- 
 formances attributed to me. 
 
 Beejapore is certainly one of the most extraordinary places 
 I've ever visited, and one of the most so, that probably ever ex- 
 isted. Springing from nothing, in two hundred years rose, under 
 the magic influence of eight successive Mahommed sovereigns, to a 
 point of magnificence probably not surpassed in India, and then 
 as suddenly sinking into obscurity after its conquest by Aurung- 
 zebe, which put an end to this short-lived, though most bril- 
 liant dynast}^. There are said still to be in existence, 700 wells 
 with steps, and 300 without. Wells in the East are one of the 
 indications of loealth and importance. 700 mosques of stone and 
 700 of chunam (plaster), the walls eight miles in circumference. 
 Jusef Adil Shah commenced his reign, a.d. 1500 ; Ismael Adil 
 Shah, 1507 ; Ibraham Adil Shah, 1534 ; Ali Adil Shah, 1557 ; 
 Ibrahim Adil Shah II., 1579; Mahommed Shah, 1626; Ali 
 Adil Shah II., 1060; Secunda Adil Shah, 1685. To-day dis- 
 missed my siwars to return to Satara. 
 
 March 17 ih, Hindoo Temple.— Found this cool and inviting, 
 so " put up" in it In the midst of a nap, a wedding party came 
 in to do "pooja," or some other ceremony, eat cakes, etc. ; the 
 groom came to my bed to give me two rolls, each with chunam 
 and a betel-nut wrapped in a tobacco leaf, which they, both 
 
184: FUOM WAI.I. STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 men and women, chew. It is disgusting, makes a red saliva, and 
 the chewers as they expectorate the red saliva, have the appear- 
 ance of bleeding at the lungs. As no one here knows about Bee- 
 januggur or Iwally, or even the names of the stations along the 
 road, I shall have to give up my search after these old towns, 
 and go on to Kulludghee, besides losing a day looking for them. 
 
 When I laid down to sleep, I sent my butler to the head man 
 of the village to get bullocks, and had just turned over for 
 another nap after the bridal party left, when my servant came 
 back with the report I could not have any ; just then I saw a 
 crowd coming up, which the servant said was the head man 
 himself, so thought I'd anticipate his impertinence; got up, 
 stepped into my slippers and picking up the riding whip, went 
 out and met him — he was surrounded by a gang who came to see 
 him bully me. I told him, I wished two pair of bullocks, and 
 
 had an order from !Mr. , the resident, on all the villages 
 
 for what I wished. He said he was not going to give me any, 
 
 and did not care for Mr. , he had nothing to do with him. 
 
 So then I told him I must and would have them, and if the 
 bullocks were not here in half an hour I'd lay my whip over his 
 back — -emphasising my threat to show I was in earnest, with an 
 alternation of my fist, in proximity to his eyes, and the end of 
 my heavy hunting whip punching his ribs; then kicked his 
 sepoy for not bringing them, and turning on my heel, went back 
 -to bed again, leaving him and his crew to enjoy the interview 
 and the loss of anticipated fun in their respective ways. In fif- 
 teen minutes the bullocks were before the temple. 
 
 Now m}'- " stupids" must make a fuss, they can't ride a bul- 
 lock or tattoo without a saddle and stirrups, and I'm sure I don't 
 know what all else their troubles are. I expect they will want 
 my horse and saddle next. There was an old fellow in here to 
 pray to-day, who in " doing up" Bramah, or the others of that 
 charming trio, stretched himself five times on the floor. 
 
 . March 18^/i, Kola. — Just before we got here, fourteen ante- 
 
FORDING A RIVER. 185 
 
 lopes passed within half rifle shot, unfortunately in the row last 
 night my rifle was put in the carts. I am in a sort of govern- 
 ment office, proclamations and notices in Kandarese hang around 
 the room, while bed-bugs promenade it, much to my horror and 
 discomfort. But the sun is so hot I can't tent, except under a 
 tree; however, after this I shall always find bungalows. 
 
 The police officials have been very civil — to pay for it I' ve had 
 to give four certificates vouching for the attention, besides money. 
 One man rolled and wagged his head like a "dancing jack" 
 while his was being read. 
 
 March 19, Kulludghee. — Started my people off last evening 
 at sunset while I napped till twelve, when I started with the 
 Coolies, and the bed, and torch-bearer. In an hour came to a 
 rapid branch of the Chrishna which we forded, how, I can't say, 
 for we seemed to be wading down stream a distance of a mile and 
 a half; there was a rapid current, a rocky bed, and water from 
 a foot to two and a half deep, which made it confoundedly awk- 
 ward for all, particularly me on horseback, for though the guide 
 and four men who carried the bed and bedstead got along very 
 well, they went slow, feeling their way ; the torch-bearer kept 
 between, to give them and me an equal benefit ; but my Arab, 
 who is a fast walker, disliked both the smoke and slow loco- 
 motion, and as he pitched and plunged among the rocks I 
 expected every moment he would either upset the bed-bearers, 
 or go into a hole and give me " a dip." Luckily we all got over 
 safely. I did not dare think how my baggage got across, for 
 with the thought came visions of wet carpet bags, with ruined 
 sketches, drawing-books, and herbarium. 
 
 Sunday, March 20.— A chaplain is only allowed here for six 
 months, so I've been in the bungalow all day. To-day been 
 luxuriating in some of the Boston hermetically sealed "fixins," 
 long clam soup and tomato catsup. 
 
186 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 March 21, PuNCiiAGAUM. — Nothing of interest on the road or 
 here. 
 
 March 22, Em.'USTOOR. — Two or three wild boars crossed the 
 road last night a short distance ahead of me. I thought thej 
 were bears at first. In this country, where there is such a vari- 
 ety of game, it is not safe to ride too near, unless you know what 
 it is. A friend of mine in that way rode nearly up to a tigress 
 and her cubs a few months ago, mistaking them for wolves, and 
 did not discover his error until within a hundred yards and then 
 without a gun. Here found half-a-dozen horses, boar-spears, and 
 servants. At sundown up galloped three officers for a " pig- 
 sticking" frolic. 
 
 March 23. — Found there were several people in the bungalow, 
 a lot of carts and traps ; made the peon find me a room, so snug, 
 could just about get in with a bed and carpet-bag. After I had done 
 the principal part of the day's work, breakfast and a nap, butler 
 reported the two gentlemen sent their " salaams (in English, 
 compliments or any other civil expression), to me and wished 
 me to join them in the piazza to dine ; then thinking, perhaps, 
 he had not expressed the civility or invitation strong enough, 
 added, " and Madame Sahib sends her salaam too !" Not liking 
 to trust him with a verbal message after his late brilliant sample, 
 I "sugared up" (anglice, arranged my toilet), and getting on a 
 coat, paid the gentlemen a visit and thanking them for the invi- 
 tation, begged to be excused from the dinner as my wardrobe 
 was not in a presentable condition for ladies' eyes, and dressing 
 was no joke when I would have had to unpack a trunk for 
 "toggery," besides re-packing again immediately for my mid- 
 night journey. One was a married man, a Mr. Gillespie,* the 
 other a youngster cadet, who was very near blowing us all up 
 by touching off some loose powder on a table that had an open 
 
 * About a year afterwards killed by a tiger while shooting. 
 
BELGAUM. 187 
 
 canister standing in the middle of it. Luckily his friend saw the 
 movement in time to snatch it up and run out, wliile the foolish 
 boy had his hands and face well blistered, and eyebrows and 
 lashes burnt off. My Arab, thanks to his stupid groom, is not 
 well — so I've got to take to the bullock-cart this evening. 
 
 March 24, Belgaum. — Got in at half-past one last night, and 
 began the day good by going to church, it being Lent, A con- 
 gregation of about four persons. Then as the song says, "sent 
 for a surgeon (veterinary) the first in his vocation, who came and 
 made a long oration, and ended his jaw by amputation," not pre- 
 cisely, but by suggesting a burning iron and medicines. I cited 
 Youatt and proposed bleeding ; so he consented, praised the horse, 
 as every body does — and left. This afternoon a walk around the 
 town, which has a high wall, deep moat, and circular buttresses ; 
 found pretty flowers, and their seeds in which you will feel more 
 interest. On my way home passed a bungalow — a pretty flaxen- 
 haired little child ran almost up to me exclaiming "Pa, pa," 
 when it discovered the mistake the poor little thing ran back 
 again, displaying its chagrin in wry faces. From a high hill had 
 a good view of Belgaum. It is pleasantly situated with undu- 
 lating country and a belt of distant hills. It is the head-quarters 
 of division, in this part of the presidency. 
 
 March 25. — This day a year, according to church chronology, 
 I was wandering about Jerusalem. I wonder where my wan- 
 dering whim will lead me this time next year — much nearer home 
 I hope. Commenced this morning before sunrise in a regular 
 fog, the first I've seen in India ; walked down to the fort and all 
 through and around it. It is not strictly speaking a fort, but the 
 shell of a walled town, occupied by ofiicers, bungalows, church, and 
 small quarters for a few soldiers, from a mile and a half to two 
 miles in circuit — the interior is laid out in pretty gardens, now 
 filled with flowers. The bungalows are not pretty, but pictu- 
 resque, with their many attachments, for each room is ahnost 
 a small house by itself. 
 
188 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 Then came home and bought a pony, as my horse must have a 
 respite of a few clays. Now another new gorawalla — fellows 
 who are the bother of one's life — this is my fourth in about two 
 months. 
 
 To church on my new purchase. On the way home he " bolted" 
 down a steep hill for the stable, to the considerable risk of his 
 neck, and mine too. * Found my table covered with flowers and 
 seeds. I had sent my butler, who knows almost every person 
 of note, and without note, in this presidency, to get me every 
 kind of flower he could find, and I think lie must have obeyed 
 the order literally ; among the flowers one I've been trying a 
 long time to find — a very beautiful flowering tree for a garden 
 hedge ; heretofore the seeds had all been green. My butler is a 
 jewel in some things, notwithstanding his stupidity in others. 
 He is always looking out for something good for me to eat, which, 
 he begs, borrows, or buys, as may happen. To-day met a fellow 
 butler with some fine Bombay mangoes (the best in India), he 
 was carrying homeward for his master, and he begged four nice 
 ones for me, two of whicb. I've paid my respects to. The stones 
 are lying at my side drying to be packed away with the other 
 fruit stones, and seeds. The other two mangoes have the same 
 prospective division before them. I wisb I could give them to 
 you instead, together with a heap of flowers in my window to be 
 thrown away. The mango fruit is flattish and oval looking, like 
 a small over-ripe watermelon, but not much larger than a good- 
 sized pear. The inside is yellow and exceedingly luscious, but 
 tbe fruit is not equal to the praise bestowed upon it. It has a 
 large oval flattish stone. 
 
 Butler is trying to decide about a second gorawalla I must 
 have for my other horse. One is a particularly good groom, but 
 drinks occasionally. The other is not quite so good, but sober ; 
 both, take their wives. Madras women as well as men, are fond 
 of a " dhrop." In this place, there are four regiments, one or 
 two European, belonging to the Company's service. 
 
■iii!:i''i 
 
INDIAN APATHY. 189 
 
 March 26th, Patna Bungalow. — At twelve I started, pass- 
 ing through the native town, not a person except the guards 
 to be seen. For two days past, there has been a furious jubilee 
 here. Went by a tree covered with garlands — doubtless, one of 
 the head-quarters of the festivities. Four years ago, the Hindoo 
 and Mahommedan processions met, and the military had to be 
 called out to suppress the riot. Last night met two gentlemen 
 going in. At daylight, saw a hill fort, a short distance from the 
 road. Added to my collection four kinds of seeds, and some 
 pretty delicate leaves I've not seen before. 
 
 March 27//;, Batsee Bungalow. — Crossed last night Eham 
 Ghaut, the crossable part of a range of high hills. It is the great 
 resort of Belgaum officers and families during the warm months. 
 On the way up we came on three large wild boars and fifteen 
 young ones. The rifle, as usual, was safe in the cart. At the top 
 of the ghaut passed several bungalows — the view was lovely even 
 by moonlight. The broken ranges of rugged hills were covered 
 with heavy jungle, and all enveloped in the thick mist as it rose 
 from the valley. The ascent was sufficiently bad, but the 
 descent infinitely worse. For several hundred yards, the road is 
 precipitous, with sudden turns. Saw an officer's cart upset, and 
 "kit" distributed about the road — but didn't dare think of 
 mine ; shortly after his two horses, with the gorawallas, and 
 the other cart ; the attendants all fast asleep, quite regardless of 
 what had become of the other cart — true Indian apathy. 
 
 Had to-day the benefit of another Hindoo fete. They seem to 
 come quite as often as in Eussia, where they use up four days 
 out of the seven. At the head of the procession which visited 
 me, were half-a-dozen maniacal looking persons, with long flying 
 hair — dancing, and flourishing naked swords. 
 
 March 28ih, Hass^vnendi. — After dinner last night, I gave or- 
 ders to start at seven. Waking up at twelve, I found my people not 
 gone and asking butler why, he said, " I no can do anything — those 
 
190 FROM WAI>T> STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 nasty bullock men say ' no go.' " I took my hunting whip, and 
 went where they were sitting, smoking, and chattering with their 
 friends ; and giving them a very demonstrative hint that I meant 
 my orders to be obeyed, carts and men were very soon on the 
 march. Shortly after starting, we crossed the lines into the Por- 
 tuguese territory of Goa. We were stopped, and had to unload 
 everything in the carts, the guard having made such a " rout" 
 after allowing us to pass, owing to some officious underling. So 
 we had to return, and four officials were roused from their 
 slumbers to know whether we could pass or not, and at last we 
 were consigned to the tender mercies of a Hindoo " writer," who 
 was (for me) unfortunately too honest for a bribe, or to be over- 
 come with civility. 
 
 Found a marked difference in the roads and country the mo- , 
 ment we crossed the lines. Though midnight I added some 
 seeds to my collection. To-day, for want of accommodation or a 
 boat, I have been melting in the tent in a cocoa-nut grove, where 
 I've been alternating between sketching, studying, napping, rifle 
 practice, and swimming. 
 
 This afternoon, several heavy showers, and it was quite refresh- 
 ing to see a little rain once more. 
 
 March 29(h, Goa. — "Waking about midnight, I walked out 
 to see if the boat had arrived ; it was a lovely night, with full 
 moon. Part of my people were asleep under a tree, with a 
 fortification of traps around, ready for embarkation. I routed 
 my cook to know if the boat had arrived. He paid a visit to 
 the butler, who was reposing under the shade of a neighboring 
 shed. He returned with the intelligible report, "Butler, sahib, 
 be sleep; say no go; water can't come; boat be here some 
 time p'haps." So I tried to be resigned, and retired to bed 
 again. "Was woke at two with the good news the boat was in ; 
 in ten minutes the tent was down, the things and we were all on 
 board and off. The sail was through a narrow creek, with wild 
 scenery. Got here at daylight, where I was soon stowed in one 
 
DESCRIPTION OF GOA, 191 
 
 of the travellers' quarters, the other being occupied by four 
 English officers. 
 
 The place is pleasantly situated, though awfully and hope- 
 lessly dirty. In the river opposite, lays a Portuguese corvette, 
 which they have been two years repairing, and at last is to start 
 for home. Light canoes are skimming the river, paddled by a 
 single native in the stern. After breakfast, I had a visit from a 
 Portuguese appointed by the government to wait on travellers. 
 He brought me two letters from Bombay. Among his interest- 
 ing remarks, was: "United States fine country; beginning to 
 improve quite fast. You under English government once, why 
 not come so 'gain? First-rate government." 
 
 This afternoon, I went to the toj^ of the Flagstaff Hill in the 
 centre of the town, from whence is a most beautiful view of the 
 entrance to the harbor, its two forts, the river, the town with its 
 numerous churches, with distant villages and horizon bounded 
 by blue hills. The territory has a population of 400,000, with 
 4,000 soldiers. One regiment is European, the rest are native, 
 with considerable Portuguese blood, all of whom have the chance 
 to be promoted to any rank in the service, which is not the case 
 in the East India Company's service, where the highest native 
 officer is inferior to the lieutenant. The soldiers here, are a very 
 slouchy set, like their masters ; quite unlike the easy soldierly 
 bearing of an English sepoy, who, but for his face, would be 
 taken for an English soldier, who, of all I've seen in Europe, 
 have the most soldierly bearing. 
 
 The revenue is about $500,000, which is very small for so 
 rich a country, and with such advantages, if improved. In 
 front of my house, are anchored several catamarans, which are 
 only dug out with high siding and no bearings, with two long 
 covered poles, and a heavy pointed log attached, which floats in 
 the water. I've my own doubts about their speed when com- 
 pared with our fast boats ! Eeally the smell of salt water is 
 most invigorating. There is an insurrection on the frontier, and 
 several wounded and dying sepoys were brought in yesterday. 
 
192 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 Marcli oOih. — By sunrise was off in a muncliil to hunt up my 
 banker who lives out of town. The apparatus was a legless 
 couch with an awning or framework attached to the pole that 
 sustained the munchil, which pulls down on either side you 
 wish it. What a luxury it would be to have one of these at 
 home, if j'ou could only have four stout fellows to carry you 
 about all day for half a dollar. I met the " gent" on the way — 
 "the spirit had moved him" to come in that morning. He was 
 a high caste Hindoo, half naked, and slipshod, with a crimson vel- 
 vet skull-ca]), after the fashion of his class in this locality. He 
 was shuffling along on foot — his palanquin following. Getting 
 the money, I started in a large boat with ten oars and awning, 
 called a bunda boat, for old Goa. This' place is by distinction 
 called Pungee, or New Goa. The day was fine, and the row 
 charming. Went by numerous little villages, each with its 
 large church — for their spiritual welfare is well attended to — and 
 I presume, as a matter of course, they liberally reciprocate the 
 favor by sharing their worldly goods with their 7dnd spiritual 
 benefactors. There was once a college here. We passed the 
 great wall built by Alfonzo Albuquerque, who came out to sub- 
 jugate India, and in 1515 took Goa, and made it the capital, to 
 prevent the inroads of the Mahrattas. We saw the once mag- 
 nificent ruins of the St. Augustme monastery — perhaps even more 
 grand in its ruins, for thus a part is left for imagination to 
 supply, though this is scarcely required — for it must have been 
 larger than any I've seen even in Europe. It once had three 
 hundred monks. There are several other monastic ruins, and 
 at one time there were seven hundred monks here. A rather 
 formidable ecclesiastical establishment ! 
 
 Visited several of the large churches, and the cathedral. On 
 the pavement over the vaults I read the names of many of its 
 early bishops and priests, mostly dating from 1625 to 1700. 
 From the cathedral we went on by the ruins of the Inquisition ! 
 for tliis too, it appears, was necessary, for desperate cases require 
 forcible remedies, in some religions ! 
 
THE JACK FRUIT. 193 
 
 We "went on by the nunnery, rambling among tlie ruins of the 
 St. Augustine monastery. But most of the entrances have been 
 walled up, and much of the stone from the other parts has been 
 carried to New Goa for building purposes. I made sketches, got 
 some seeds, and started for home ; taking another sketch as we 
 floated down the river. I was disappointed in the ruins ; they 
 are entirely ecclesiastical, but the sail and scenery were lovelj" — 
 the latter I fancy scarce equalled, for a water view in India. As 
 we were rowing down near the shore we saw the Governor's 
 family pass ; among them was a pretty daughter. There is an old 
 bridge built in 1626 now in fine preservation. 
 
 Butler " laid himself out " this evening for a grand dinner, as 
 there was no baggage to be packed, or eight o'clock departure, 
 besides having had the entire cuisine to himself, as I had the 
 mussal, and the cook had gone to see his family. But I won't excite 
 your envy by a recital of all the " good things." Suffice to say, 
 besides four vegetables, I had for dessert six lands of fruit, as if 
 he supposed the sail had given me the capacity and ability of 
 ten men. Of the vegetables, one was a white sweet potato, not 
 as richly flavored as the yellow kind. The fruits were plantains, 
 pine apples, mango, guava, jack fruit, and cashoo. I only won- 
 der "Butler Sahib " did not provide a few melons and cocoa-nuts. 
 As the market does not furnish all, he had resorted to some of 
 his multitudinous friends to beg or borrow. The jack fruit is 
 much eaten by the natives. It grows in a large sack from one 
 to two feet long, by six to twelve inches in diameter, and with 
 half an inch thickness of skin which is rough, closely studded 
 with small pomts. Inside is the fruit, packed in segments like 
 an orange, several hundred being in each sack ; butler showed 
 me a quarter of one which he and another butler had bought : 
 I think it will last me and the servants nearly a week, they are so 
 sweet and luscious ; the tree is large, and used for canoes and fur- 
 niture. In each segment of the fruit is a large bean-shaped stone. 
 The sack looks like a wet sponge, and grows on small twigs from 
 the trunk and branches, and not on the ends of the branches. 
 
 13 
 
19-4 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 The cashoo is a beautiful fruit, shaped like a bell pear, of a 
 rich golden color, with " a dash " of red on one side. Outside on 
 the large end, where the blossom usually is, grows the stone. 
 The tree is as large as a good sized apple-tree, with large leaf. 
 The fruit is juicy and pulpy. I do not like it very much. The 
 sap and juice are made into a liquor, the leaves used medicinally. 
 The other fruits on table, I've before described. The cocoa-nut 
 is extensively grown here for oil and fruit ; liquor is distilled 
 from its sap. Being the only good oil in India, it is used by every 
 one. The lamps are generally glass vessels of oil with float- 
 ing tapers, a style peculiar to India. Just as I was sitting down 
 this evening to write, in came butler with his " day book," with, 
 "Massa, please make my 'count," the usual preface, as I have to 
 attend to it, or he forgets his hieroglyphics, for in India all pur- 
 chases and payments are made through his hands, he of course 
 charging his commission, which is an understood thing, called 
 " dustera." Usually both sides have to contribute to this. 
 Whenever I fancy I've a few moments to myself, this vision and 
 ■sound greet me ; when I saw the long list, I began to think if I 
 should stay here a few weeks longer, there would be a famine. 
 I have about as many entries to make for " Butler Sahib," as a mer- 
 chant in a fair business ; but with this difference — the profits to 
 him, and loss to me. I had just finished "Butler Sahib," when 
 the Portuguese agent made his appearance, and like all stupid 
 people didn't know how to go when he bad finished his business. 
 So he sat and bored me. 
 
 March 31, Salsette. — I'm sure you would laugh if you could 
 " look in " upon me and the establishment, at the present moment, 
 and see our avocations. We are all in and about an old shed, 
 the centre of attraction to the loungers of the village. I w^riting 
 up my journal; my -"crow quill," a feather from a fresh killed 
 chicken. Not being able to get at my portfolio, I had to take a 
 lantern and hunt for a feather from some late "sudden death," 
 as chickens are called in India from the summarv manner that in 
 
AN INEFFICIENT GOVERNMENT. 195 
 
 liaif an hour's time they are metamorpliosed frora a cackling fowl 
 to a well flavored "quill" on the bungalow "mahogany" before 
 a half-starved traveller. I had to dry the quill before the fire, to 
 commence operations. The horses are almost at my elbow, 
 winking and blinking, sighing and pawing under their shampoo- 
 ing operations, which they hate as much as any boy ever did to 
 get his face and hands washed. . Cook and mussal are busy get- 
 ting' dinner, while butler waddles about, guggling his " hubble- 
 bubble," and cackling like an old woman, alternately at his 
 subordinates and the bullock men, and in his agony of despair 
 comes and asks "If Massa won't please speak to them nasty 
 men, he no do nothing, he say he want his dinner, he go this 
 time yesterday morning, you kill, you cut his throat, he no go 
 'fore, what you do? Vulta?" (What can I do ?) So I have 
 to go out, be very fierce, and threaten to annihilate them ; where- 
 upon they promise to start, and by way of commencement go 
 and get their supper at nine o'clock at night, instead of going off 
 with my baggage. 
 
 It's difficult to say which is the w^orst here, the people or the 
 government. You can't compel a person to do anything, and are 
 swindled awfully by every one. They make me pay four times 
 as much as ever before, and then won't do what I want. This 
 morning the government agent came in, and after a great parade 
 about the fuss the Governor and aids had made, because I did not 
 call on them, (which I expected to have done to-day, not having 
 had time before,) told me the boatman said I must leave imme- 
 diately instead of this afternoon as I had expected to do. Luck- 
 ily I had sent my horses by land at daylight, and been up to the 
 "Flagstaff Hill," and got my last sketch. So I only missed 
 seeing the Governor, which I did not care a straw about, a petty 
 ofiicial like him being nothing to gain or lose by not seeing. So 
 despatched a breakfast of fried oysters, etc., and off out of the bay 
 and round a headland at sea, on which stands the palace of the 
 bishop. We were hailed, and I had to come in and show our 
 permit to leave the country — a miserable farce in the most insig- 
 
196 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 nificaut province on this vast continent, and tlie only one in 
 which it is done. Then up a small river arriving here at six 
 this evening, 
 
 April 1. — Started at two this morning. At four passed 
 through, a large town, quite European in appearance, with 
 houses and churches. An hour after changed our carts for 
 Coolies, as there were no roads beyond. These Coolies happened 
 to be women — and such a time ! — arranging for seventeen of them 
 of all ages and sizes to carry my " traps." At last the price 
 was fixed, just half as high again as it should be. Then off they 
 started for breakfast. It seems an universal custom in the 
 East for the people to go and eat after making a bargain and 
 before starting. Perhaps it is because they become so exhausted 
 b}' talking. At last we were all fairly on the road, and tlirougb 
 as wild a looking country as one can well find even in India. The 
 ®nly object that interested me was a brown " cobra capella," — the 
 first I've seen. Reaching a village, the end of their stage, they, 
 in regular woman style, "put their foot down " — they would not 
 go further and were preciously impertinent. I could not get 
 any others, so tried their sympathies, but " no go." I looked firm 
 and said they should, and I'd pay them extra ; they all shoul- 
 dered their loads, then stood blubbering and squalling, and we 
 had quite a commotion, seventeen women "going it like blazes.'' 
 The oflicials came up and said tbey would find me men, though 
 they had before refused. I must spend the nigh.t here. 
 
 April 2ncl. — After half the night spent in quarrelling about 
 men, got off at seven this morning, and travelled till three, cross- 
 ing a river by swimming my horse. After waiting two hours on 
 tlie opposite side, half starved, and half sick from bad water last 
 night, had a deputation of Coolies from butler, who said I must 
 go back to the Custom-house, whicli my stupid guide had made 
 me miss, and what was worse, had to walk in a hot sun four 
 miles — two there, and same back, with long riding boots, and 
 

 sketched by the Author. 
 
 Seei.iig.-- r>y. 
 
 YIKW OF DOWLATAB.VD FOUTIIESS, DECCAN. 
 
A MONSTER COBRA, 197 
 
 half sick, feeling ready to drop every step. I found an old 
 Portuguese colonel, awfully civil, begging a thousand pardons 
 for making me come back, and glanced very magnificently at my 
 order to pass luggage and self. Then invited me to take some 
 refreshments prepared for me, among them a sausage most as 
 long and as thick as my arm, preserves, wine, etc. But I was 
 too unwell to eat anything, so got a cup of tea which set me up. 
 Then sent my people off, despatching a messenger ahead with a 
 Mahratta and Portuguese order to the various officials to assist 
 me, besides a guard to prevent my three men from deserting. 
 The colonel was going to send me in his palanquin, but a ras- 
 cally old padre had borrowed it. I waited an hour in vain for 
 him to return, then footed it back escorted by a guard. 
 
 April 3cZ, Sadashaghur. — Off at four, reached this, and meet- 
 ing a "half caste" (a person with father white, mother native), 
 inquired where the Government bungalow was, and who w^ere in 
 the place. " Only the lieutenant on the hiU, I and the drummer." 
 My train coming up, started up hill, as they said there was an 
 empty bungalow at the disposal of travellers if j)ermission 
 asked. Found my informant had got me into a blunder, as the 
 
 house was private property, belonging to a Lieutenant S , 
 
 who, with true Indian hospitality, gave me rooms, and ordered 
 his servants to prepare breakfast. I was right glad to get into 
 comfortable quarters again. Seen nothing to-day to interest save 
 an awful big " cobra capella," eight feet long, and nearly as thick 
 as my arm ; he was crossing the road from a "paddy" (rice) field 
 over into another. He was not more than forty feet from me, 
 going along with head a foot up ; but he was so intent looking at 
 me, he did not see a native approaching who was only about 
 twenty-five feet from him, nor did the native see the snake, as he 
 was so intent looking at me. My boy with the rifle was behind, 
 or I would have shot the snake, the Coolies came up shortly, 
 and we all went and looked for him — luckily did not find him, for 
 he was so large some of us would likely have been bitten and 
 
198 FROJ[ WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 killed. lie was nearly black — the most venomous kind. This is 
 a lovely spot, on a promontory, with superb view of the island, 
 bay, and distant hills, a few yards distant a hill fort ; we are 
 within its walls. 
 
 April 4:ih, Areolar. — Started at four this morning; am now 
 in the Madras presidency, and find frequent bungalows and ser- 
 vants to get meals. To-day I have been marching by the sea 
 shore. 
 
 April 5. — Off at midnight. Early this morning, I crossed quite 
 a bay at a village called Tudaree. "We and the horses all went 
 over in a kind of horse boat, a square box on two canoes ; as we 
 went near the breakers, and the boat rolled heavily, I thought 
 both horses would either upset the boat or get into the water 
 themselves, which is not altogether free from sharks in these 
 warm latitudes. I suppose the grey has fearful visions of his 
 trip from the Persian Gulf to Bombay — like the "middle pas- 
 sage" of negroes, as regards the comfortable transport. 
 
 April 6, Honaiiwar. — Started at midnight for this place, 
 which they said would be a short ride ; but I found it five or six 
 hours. Passing though a village last night, I saw some people 
 dancing. As I rode up, found about twenty-five natives hard at 
 work, "on the light fantastic toe," at some kind of "jig" or 
 "shufl&e;" they were decked out in the ordinary long white 
 gowns, pantalettes, and red sashes, with their turbans filled with 
 artificial flowers, "doing" a most intricate dance. The torch- 
 bearers, by way of compliment, stationed themselves at my side, 
 nearly suffocating me with smoke, besides the uncomfortable heat, 
 so I begged to be excused from the honor. After breakflist sent 
 for the cutwal (native official), to know about the routes and 
 distance to Gussuppa Falls. He said he did not know, but had 
 " a book down at the office that would tell all about it." So back 
 he came with a Tamal Bible.* But as that did not lead to any 
 
 * One of the many dialects in Southern India, -which are so numerous. 
 
A FAMOUS HUNTER. 199 
 
 of the Indian routes whicli I wished to take, inquired what offi- 
 cials were in the place. He began with the collector, who was 
 away then, the Judge Sahib. I stopped him there, and getting 
 myself up respectably, called and sent in my card. I found a 
 very nice old gentleman of sixty-two or three, who at once 
 entered into all my plans ; said he would lend me his " mun- 
 chil" (a light palanquin), till I could have one made, and sent Coo- 
 lies on the road ahead, and advised me to sell most of my things, 
 horses, etc. ; if not, to send the horses by land to Seringapatani 
 or Bangalore — a march of about 850 miles, and I go down the 
 coast in his yacht to Calicut. Said I must excuse his not asking 
 me to stay at his house, for it was already full, but sleep at the 
 dawk bungalow (government bungalow^), "but I shall expect you 
 to come and spend the days here, taking your meals with us," 
 besides routes on which he could " book" me on all his relatives 
 and friends. Isn't that an avalanche of good luck ? After dinner 
 I had a nice sail in a small yacht. 
 
 April 7. — Brealcfasted with Judge L . There is a gen- 
 tleman staying with him, a famous " chicarri" (hunter), who 
 came out some years ago as a cadet, and when he first joined the 
 army he was so bullied by his comrades and superior officerSj 
 that in a fit of disgust he sold out, and not daring to go home,, 
 went into the jungle and lived like a native for ten years; not 
 seeing during this period a white person, or any one who spoke 
 English, he almost forgot the language. He w^as finally disco- 
 vered and put in business somewhere on the coast. 
 
 This is a beautiful spot, but horribly snaky, if any one part of 
 India can be more so than another. Besides centij^edes and 
 scorpions found in every place, all venomous, and only differing 
 
 It is customary for the servants to speak English, otherwise you would not 
 know in which one of half-a-dozen dialects a servant would address you. 
 "Whereas, in the other presidencies, none will have a servant who is known 
 to speak English, as it is generally presumptive evidence he is a rascal. The 
 missionary presses in India, print the Bible in most of these languages. 
 
200 FKOM WALL STREET TO CASUMERE. 
 
 in grade of venom. Coming home last night from the Judge's, 
 the servant carrying a lantern by the Judge's advice, that I 
 might avoid them il' in the path, just before I reached the 
 bungalow door there lay a large one a few feet in front, which 
 the servant soon killed. This morning a large one, fifteen or 
 sixteen feet long, was found caught in the bars of the Judge's 
 chicken yard ; he had got through, swallowed an old hen, and 
 was stuck in getting back. I am most careful to have my mus- 
 quito bars well tucked in. But one gets used to these little 
 drawbacks as they do to the earthquakes in the West Indies. 
 
 The coast is indented with small harbors the entire distance 
 from Goa. Soil very fertile, and abundance of shooting from 
 tigers down ; among the varied game is a kind of wild bull, very 
 dangerous when wounded. Within three days past I've collected 
 twenty-three kinds of seeds for you. Every nook and corner of 
 bags and trunks has something in that line stowed away. 
 
 April 8, GussuPPA. — Letter after letter — the ink hardly dry 
 on one before another commenced. An editor's labors of writing, 
 sick or well, are nothing to a poor traveller's, for he adds tired to 
 the other catalogue of complaints ; besides receiving the " siller," 
 whereas the traveller is always disbursing it. Sold one horse, 
 and dispatched the other across the country to Seringapatam, with 
 two servants to lead him. Such is the strictness of the police 
 here, that if a man were seen riding his master's, or any nice 
 horse, he would be taken up, unless he could show a written 
 authority to do so. I gave my servant a note addressed gene- 
 rally to all officials on the road, to give him any assistance he 
 might require, stating "he is to lead my horse to Seringa- 
 patam." 
 
 I am now off with my cook for " Gussuppa Falls," the " ISTiaga- 
 ra" of India. The sail up the river was cool and pleasant. Eeached 
 the termination of it at two in the morning, took to the mun- 
 chil, an awful up hill journey, frequently holding on with both 
 hands to keep from sliding out. Once we did get " stuck." The 
 
CURIOUS FISH. 201 
 
 Coolies-'' are to stay until I return for " batta," an extra compen- 
 sation of tliree cents each, which has put them all in good 
 humor. 
 
 At present the fall of water is comparatively small, in the rainy 
 season a foaming river. The current of air came up the semi- 
 circular ravine — into which the water falls a perpendicular height 
 of 915 feet — with so much force that it returns the water in a 
 beautiful column of spray, glittering in the sun's rays like bil- 
 lions of diamonds, and rising fifty or sixty feet above where it 
 started. From sunrise to sunset rainbows rest on the clouds of 
 spray. To-day's journal I expect you will doubly prize, from 
 the cruelty I was obliged to indulge in, of a feather from a 
 chicken's wing for a pen. More seeds to-da}^, so you see I don't 
 let this magnificent waterfall divert my attention from " Flora." 
 In a stream near the fall saw some curious fish, one with a large 
 oval body and long thin tail, red spots behind its eyes, and a 
 spotted body, the body transparent and entrails coiled up like a 
 watch-spring, also the heart and lungs in operation. Made 
 several sketches. The fall is not generally known, people travel 
 so little here, it's expensive and troublesome. One has to take 
 such a retinue with such a quantity of etceteras ; and then the 
 slow method, twelve miles a day. I do double that, but then I 
 go light, and am comparatively in haste. 
 
 April 10, HoxAHWAR. — A charming sail down the river, the 
 scenery is unusually fine. With the clear sky and morning or 
 evening mists the tints are superb. 
 
 The foliage embracing every variety that is oriental, of fruit, 
 ornamental and useful. At the Bungalow found a servant with 
 a note from the Judge for breakfast and dinner, also two gentle- 
 men in the same way as myself, sleeping here, and at other times 
 enjoying the Judge's hospitality. He is going home shortly. He 
 
 * Coolies mean the commoa laborers, -who have no regular business besides 
 working as porters or at any hard labor. 
 
202 FROi[ WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 has been here forty years, and been Judge thirty. He is now quite 
 the patriarch of the station, looked up to and esteemed by all 
 who know him. After breakfast to church, a gift to the station 
 from him. In the absence of the chaplain he and the Doctor 
 perform service. The congregation consisted of our breakfast 
 party and a few military subordinates. In the enthusiasm of 
 butler to sell off" my travelling kit he almost got down to my 
 wardrobe. All the afternoon it has been thundering violently 
 and lightening, so I had a note from the Judge not to go, but come 
 up and tea with him. Being under orders I obeyed. 
 
 At Sea, April 11, 12, 13. ■ — Pleasant sail, constantly in 
 sight of land, passed a few harbors and generally flat shore. 
 Yesterday passed the towns of Mangalore and Cannanore. 
 Last night was magnificently grand, incessant sharp flashes of 
 lightning, and the water so phosphorescent that with the 
 agitation from the heavy surges and the breaking of their 
 foaming crests as they rolled towards the shore, the sea 
 looked like a raging mass of "living fire." Brilliant flashes of 
 lightning momentarily on every side, and only eclipsed by the 
 astounding bursts that every half minute changed the black 
 gloomy sky to a canopy of flame that would have almost dim- 
 med a mid-day sun. But grand as the sight was I should have 
 admired it more from the land, than in my little yacht with a 
 prospective gale and rocky lee-shore. The craft, small as she 
 was, a perfect life-preserver in her way and a curiosity too, cram- 
 med in every nook and corner with a kind of pith, ten times as 
 buoyant as cork, and the lockers formed of light canoes ready 
 to be lashed together and thrown overboard in case of necessity. 
 Luckily all passed off quietl}-, and we reached Calicut harbor or 
 roadstead at eleven, not going ashore. I date at sea. 
 
 My old butler being indisposed to go any further from home, 
 said he was very sick, so I got another, a perfect " magnifico," 
 who says his prayers about six times a day, from fear or rascality, 
 I do not know which motive; so I shall keep a strict watch on 
 
Sketched by the Author. 
 
 See page 16~ 
 
 PARiEK AND SHOP, POONAH. 
 
SOCIETY AT CALICUT. 203 
 
 liim. When especially devotional tliey usually have some vil- 
 lainy ahead. I did not know but he would rub the skin off his 
 face and feet by his frequent ablutions, or else wear a hole in his 
 forehead by his multitudinous genuflexions and bumpings. 
 
 April 14, Calicut. — Came ashore at daybreak. Put uj) at 
 the travellers' bungalow. After breakfast called, and presented 
 
 my letter from Judge L to his son-in-law, Judge "W , 
 
 who proposed I should stay with him and prolong my visit, but 
 my arrangements would not admit of it, so I declined. He gave 
 me all the information as to my route he could, and a note 
 
 to the collector, Mr. C ,"'^ who was the officer to expedite 
 
 me. I called, found him a very pleasant person, and one of 
 the very few who had ever travelled in India. He spoke 
 enthusiastically of our missionaries in both northern and south- 
 ern India, many of whom he knew, among them a Mr. Lowery, 
 who had succeeded in gaining great influence over Eunjet Singh 
 the then ruler of the Punjaub, who allowed him to establish 
 missionary stations, and on his departure insisted upon his accept- 
 ing a large present for himself, which he could only get off from 
 by accepting it for the missionary society. As it is a great fes- 
 tival the Cutwal cannot start before to-morrow. Mr. C 
 
 gave me an invitation to stay with him, but I declined, as I could 
 not move, but I accepted an invitation to dinner. I spent a most 
 pleasant evening and was surprised to find them so "well up " 
 about America and American books, Stephens, Prescott, etc. 
 Usually English people ignore all knowledge of our country. 
 In India we are generally very well understood. 
 
 In this part of the country, instead of a turban, the people wear 
 a curious hat like a fig drum, with a round, flat palm-leaf " roof" 
 about two feet in diameter. The women have less show of 
 decency than any I've met with in India; they are perfectly 
 
 * A cousin, I afterwards learned, of some of my most particular friends and 
 acquaintances in India and England. He was savagely and unprovokedly 
 murdered about two years since by some fanatic half-crazy natives. 
 
204 FROJI WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 nude above their hips. I am surjDriscd the authorities don't 
 enforce Portuguese regulations in the towns or villages. In Goa 
 every man seen without a long gown or trowsers is arrested, 
 imprisoned several days, and fined, so that as the boats approach 
 the shore you see the fellows hurrying on their trowsers. The 
 external show of decency made by the Spaniards, and Portuguese, 
 is quite amusing when they are so known to be notoriously the 
 most licentious people in Europe — and yet scarcely admitting the 
 least particle of nudity in a statue that would pass quite unno- 
 ticed among the strictest of us. 
 
 A'pril 15, Calicut. — Obliged to lose a day here, I made the 
 most of it to get " set up " again by tailors and tinkers. They 
 have a custom in India that when one goes out to dine, he always 
 takes his servant to wait upon him at table. Yesterday, when 
 I dined at the collector's, my servant was perfectly resplendent, 
 "got up quite regardless of expense." A flaming red turban as 
 large as a band-box, brilliant scarlet and yellow silk pantalettes 
 appearing below his flowing, white gown and crimson sash — with 
 a molasses candy looking cane. 
 
 This place is one of the regular starting points on this side for 
 the Neilgherries, a lofty range of hills and the great sanitarium 
 of this part of India. The elevated position and climate being 
 the best this side of the Himalayas, or short of " the Continent." 
 There is nothing of any interest in the place. It is composed of 
 a large number of native huts on the sea shore — only a miserable 
 shadow of former greatness. It had once the largest commerce 
 of any city on the Malabar coast. Here Vasco de Gama, the first 
 Portuguese navigator in these seas, landed about the latter part 
 of 1497. His wonderful account of the country caused another 
 expedition to be sent, which was entrusted to the command of 
 Alvarez Cabral, consisting of a large fleet and land force. Nor 
 was the church forgotten — for eight Franciscan friars accompanied 
 the expedition, which was instructed " to carry fire and sword 
 into every nation that would not listen to their preaching." 
 
HISTORICAL KEMINISCENCES. 205 
 
 Cabral obtained permission to establish a factory here ; but after 
 a short time, difficulties arising between his people and the 
 Mahommedans who quarrelled in every place, the factory was 
 destroyed, and the Portuguese put to death, to revenge a capture 
 by them of some Mahommedan vessels. About that time the 
 Pope conferred on the King of Portugal dominion of all the 
 eastern countries which his fleets might discover. The King 
 assumed the right under that authority, to take possession of all 
 territories he could, by peace if possible, if not, by conquest, and 
 convert them to the Eomish faith. The King then sent a third 
 General (Albuquerque) with a fleet and army. The Sultan of 
 Egypt finding his lucrative commerce with India stopped by 
 these wars, and his ships plundered, sent a large fleet to revenge 
 the injuries his subjects and others of his faith had suffered. 
 Then ensued a general war of reprisal along the coast of India 
 and Arabia, between the Portuguese and all Mussulmen, during 
 which Calicut was burnt several times. The chief points of 
 severe conflict were Diu in Gujerat, and Goa, which was conquered 
 by Albuquerque in 1510, and made the Portuguese capital in 
 India. This was at one time subjected to a siege — the most 
 remarkable of any in the annals of European warfare in India — 
 in which the native allied forces from the Malabar coast and 
 Mahratta kingdom, amounting to more than 100,000, besieged it 
 in vain for two years, and were then obliged to retire after great 
 loss. The Portuguese at one time possessed almost the entire 
 western coast of India, besides much on the coast of Africa and 
 Arabia. Albuquerque greatly enlarged the Portuguese power 
 in India, and his government has always been considered as 
 the most successful and brilliant period of their reign in this 
 country. 
 
 About 1576 the Dutch engas-ed in the Eastern trade, which 
 
 DO ' 
 
 soon involved them in a war with the Portuguese, in which the 
 former quickly gained the ascendancy. The English, finding the 
 Dutch and Portuguese gaining so much advantage by their 
 trade with India, formed an association in 1600, and obtained an 
 
206 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 act of incorporation under the title of " The Governor and Com- 
 pany of ^Icrchants of London trading to the East Indies." 
 
 This association, under various charters and titles, the stock 
 owned by people of all ranks and professions, and both sexes, has 
 continued to exist until the present year. Now, owing to political 
 capitalists, trucklers to party, and meddlers who meddle on the 
 principle of meddling alone, they have excited partisan spirit at 
 home ; while others w^ere floating backwards and forwards from 
 England to India, collecting choice morgeaux of cruelty, oppres- 
 sion, and misgovernment, (as some few I could name), who, going 
 to India for such purposes, associated with none but disappointed 
 Englishmen, or dregs of Parsees, and others. Learning the ima- 
 ginary discontents of natives, more deeply dyed in political deceit 
 and fraud than even they could be with all the delectable school- 
 ing their " errand of mercy" required — a people with whom 
 deceit, fraud, and every base quality in a superlative degree, and a 
 total absence of any quality we should consider estimable, which 
 are not only absent but unknown — not even a word or idea in 
 their language to express them — were considered the highest 
 virtues. They were anxious to have any change that would rid 
 them of a government that was benefiting their country, improv- 
 ing and enriching it in every way by railroads and other roads, 
 rendering their rivers navigable, introducing machinery, canals, 
 the telegraph, and commerce. Affording them safety for proper- 
 t}^, a systematic taxation, courts of justice — and justice in these 
 courts — in fact a system of civilization conducted with such an 
 energetic, steady course of progress that no one could imagine it 
 as a possibility wnth so small a capital to work with, and much 
 more to realize it, unless they actually saw it, and then their 
 amazement would increase as they saw the difficulties to be con- 
 tended with at every step — difficulties from extent of country 
 and almost innumerable population — difficulties of prejudice 
 from the entire novelty of the system to what they were un- 
 accustomed w^here money, power, or fraud alone were the 
 stepping-stones to influence or success, and difficulties of re- 
 
THE EAST INDIA COMPANY. 207 
 
 ligion, and caste, embracing ignorance, superstition, and fana- 
 ticism ! 
 
 Such "were the people from whom these meddlers and political 
 disorganizers got their valuable information, and moved the poli- 
 tical machine that has eventually worked the East India Com- 
 pany's Charter into a nullity, and the " Home Government" into 
 the actual control. 
 
 This Company, by almost incredible energy, with very little 
 assistance from " home," like England's other child in America, 
 but with its own right hand of might and energy, gradually 
 drove out successively, Dutch, Portuguese except at Goa, and 
 French excej)t at their few little sj^ots held like the Portuguese, 
 by sufferance, and adding to their few small settlements or fac- 
 tories on the coast, province upon province, as the rulers and 
 people of each successive province compelled them to annex them 
 to prevent their constant inroads and wars, (for with the natives 
 in India there is no middle course, you must belong to them 
 or they to you, forbearance is aliuays considered the result 
 of weakness or cowardice), until the vast territory of India, 
 together with part of Burmah, various islands and places in the 
 Indian Ocean, belonged to what was once a small company of 
 trading merchants, now a mighty empire ; with until lately, a 
 well officered and disciplined army of over 300,000 native sol- 
 diers, but with less than 5,000 English officers. Troops that 
 furnished the first instance on record of crossing bayonets (and 
 successfully ! crossing them when alone and unsupported by 
 English troops), with the French, and defeating them — made 
 Bernadotte a prisoner (then a sergeant), afterwards King of 
 Sweden. So efficient were the police that officers' wives were con- 
 stantly travelling alone, in every part of India, in their journeys 
 between the seaports and their husbands' stations, and in their 
 trips to and from England. Travel was safer in every respect, 
 and a lady more secure from insult, besides an object of respect 
 and attention, than in any country in the world. The country 
 has, besides developing English energy, been a school for many 
 
208 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 of her best officers. The Duke of Wellington, and many otliers 
 of brilliant name, first " won their spurs" fighting the Company's 
 battles. It also furnished a lucrative source of employment to 
 thousands of the youth of England in the army or civil employ- 
 ment. 
 
 April 16, Anunpoor Bungalow. — This is the biennial anni- 
 versary of my departure from home. Twelve o'clock to-night 
 will make out the two years — to an hour I presume. Last year 
 on this day of the month, I was on top of Mount Tabor, the 
 Mount of the Transfiguration. It was stormy then, and same 
 now, as if to remind me of the terrible gale I sailed in from home. 
 Started at five yesterday afternoon. Had a delightful row of 
 twenty miles, which, owing to shoals and turns, took ten hours. 
 The boat was well adapted for rowing. It had a nice cabin, and 
 eight stout oarsmen, besides two paddlers in the stern. The sce- 
 nery of the wildest description, with a dense jungle of under- 
 brush, forest trees, and graceful palms. Occasionally a stone 
 cabin peered through the brush, now and then a large blazing 
 fire producing a singu.lar effect. The only living objects to be 
 seen on or near the river, an occasional native in his light canoe 
 or the scattered rice boats, long narrow canoes covered over 
 tightly with reed and thatch, looking like a long snake gliding 
 over the surface. Our crew rowed merrily, singing hour after 
 hour without flagging, most methodistical tunes — the two rear 
 boatmen with stentorian lungs leading ofi:' with a sentence, which 
 the six forward ones repeated. As the last note died away with 
 the farthest one, they all repeated in chorus, the two stern ones 
 leading. It was very agreeable and musical. It was so animating 
 I almost fancied myself at a " camp meeting." I've not heard any- 
 thing in the way of boat-music like it, since the Halee-Halee 
 Yallah Hae of the Egyptian boatmen going into Thebes or Cairo 
 of an evening. On landing found my Coolies and munchil. 
 They loaded up and we started ofi*. For a distance they followed 
 the course of the river, but the rapid current disconcerted them ; 
 
'/ ,d'>i 'n|^'||L 
 
 '".ORR-i;.Y. I 
 
 Sketched by the Autlior. 
 
 VIEW OF KAULEE CAVE TEMPLE. 
 
 page 163. 
 
AN UPSET. 209 
 
 they got into deep water wliicli, tliougli not over three feet, was 
 quite enough when so rapid, with a head load or munchil to un- 
 steady their steps ; and I trembled for my baggage. My hands were 
 busy each side as I lay in the munchil, measuring the distance 
 between it and the water — at last it reached about three inches^ and I 
 began to feel uncomfortable, when in the midst of it my bearers 
 stopped to have a word war with the baggage Coolies, who were 
 plunging about on the other side of the stream. Just then I saw 
 ray cook barely keeping headway. My bearers started off and 
 soon reached shoal water, which relieved me from the calcula- 
 tions and probabilities of managing to escape out of this 
 affair, if dropped in the stream with an envelope of curtain and 
 pole. 
 
 Crossed the river this morning again, at Erola, where were 
 a large number of rice canoes, and people boiling sugar cane ; 
 then on through a wild country to this place, gathering some 
 seeds by the way. One of my four bearers slipped in crossing a 
 mud hole, which upset the other, and let me " down by the head," 
 any way but pleasantly. Here I must rest all day, and part of 
 the night, as the bearers say a jungle is to be crossed, which is 
 frequented by elephants, that are very troublesome. But as I 
 don't believe the story, we've compromised on a start at two in 
 the morning, wind and weather permitting. At present, it is 
 thundering and looks stormy ; so I shall hope for the best. 
 
 April 17, SissiPARAH Bungalow. — At four this morning 
 started — the last twelve miles a steep climb, with sharp turns, 
 and I could often feel the bottom of the munchil striking against 
 the stones. The scenery as we wound up the Ghauts was magnifi- 
 cent. The views from these hills are considered among the 
 
 grandest in India. Three quarters of the way up, Mr. W 
 
 passed me, though he left a night later ; he had relays of horses on 
 the road, the one he was then riding being a remarbably fine Pegu 
 pony, about eleven hands high, with immense breadth of chest 
 and back. Since Pegu has become an English province, immense 
 
 14 
 
210 FRO^[ WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 numbers of these ponies are imported for " hacks " and " hill work," 
 for which with their great strength they are admirably adapted. 
 
 Shortly after reaching the bungalow, Major 11 , an 
 
 officer in one of the Queen's regiments, arrived. We were soon 
 acquainted, and discussed most socially over " the mahogany" 
 the joint contents of our hampers, and etceteras. In the course 
 of conversation, I found my people had dubbed me " Engineer 
 Allen," for they are as bad as Irish servants at getting my name 
 correctly. I've tried in vain to make my fellows believe I am 
 not in the service, and drop the title. But as it increases their 
 importance, and engineers are influential men, they are sure to 
 attach it to me whenever they can, and my sketching tends to 
 confirm their story. 
 
 April 18, AvELANCH Bungalow. — The cool air of last evening 
 was most refreshing after the hot weather I've been enduring down 
 on the plains, though the change was so great I thought I should 
 freeze. This morning I collected six or seven new kinds of seeds 
 from pretty flowering plants and trees. Saw many other plants 
 in bloom, but too early for seeds. To-day over hills and through 
 small valleys but gradually ascending, and am now about 7,000 
 feet above the sea. This afternoon, the last hour before we got in, 
 .there was quite an exciting race between our respective bearers, 
 twelve bearers to each of these light munchils, each party shouting. 
 
 H 's munchil had caught up with me, and such a race — 
 
 their grunting chorus in a defiant tone, as they trotted along at full 
 six miles an hour over rocks and broken roads, with as dismal a 
 howl, as a first rate " Irish wake " could have accomplished with 
 the "mountain dew" accompaniment. When we reached this, 
 found another ofiicer in possession of half the bungalow, or 
 rather his servants were, with table laid, expecting him. 
 
 A2:)ril 19, Ootacamund. — ^I rose before daylight this morning 
 lo finish my letter for the mail. I heard the butler and cook 
 .shivering as they got me my breakfast. My two companions of 
 
AlSr UNDULATING COUNTRY. 211 
 
 last evening were sound asleep. " Jonathan" is usually awake 
 before the " rest of creation." My new acquaintance was a Cap- 
 tain G , a very pleasant fellow. He is here ibex shooting. 
 
 We spent last evening over a blazing fire — rather a change from 
 two nights before, when I could not keep cool with as few clothes 
 as decency would admit of. My Coolies being afraid of the cold 
 kept me waiting an hour and a half for the sun to get fairly up. 
 A charming morning. The road led over and through a suc- 
 cession of hills and valleys for fifteen miles, with scarce an 
 acre of level land — one of the peculiarities of this range of hills. 
 Very little is cultivated, and almost as little pastured, though it 
 would feed hundreds of cattle. 
 
 Ootacamund presents the same uneven appearance. Every 
 hill and valley is studded with white bungalows. I was met by 
 the landlord a short distance from the hotel — a very soldierly 
 respectable looking person — supposing him to be the " Boniface." 
 On asking if he was, with a flourishing bow and complaisant 
 smile, he replied, " I have the honor to be so," and accordingly 
 furnished me with a very nice room in the bachelors' quarters. 
 
 Soon Major H brought up the rear with the luggage. We 
 
 happen to be the onl}^ occupants of this part of the establishment. 
 The ladies' part is a very fine building, formerly the residence of 
 my friend Judge L . Both portions of the hotel are delight- 
 fully situated, with nice grounds and flower garden. The Major, 
 who has been here before, proposed a walk this afternoon, and 
 to be my cicerone. Being, like myself, a good walker, before we 
 returned we had wandered over hill and dale, view-hunting until 
 we nearly made a circuit of the place. We passed Judge 
 W on the road. 
 
 Ajml 20tk. — At sunrise took a long walk for a fine view. 
 Early and late the air is delightfully cool. In the middle of the 
 day it is hot, and there is the same liability to " coup de soleil" 
 as on the plain. Not being able to get any vehicle I walked to 
 Judge W s, and sent in to Mrs. B my card and letter 
 
212 FROM WATJ. STKEET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 from licr father Judge L . This afternoon I saw all the 
 
 "beauty and fashion" of the place riding or driving. 
 
 April 21sL — Wc got horses at last and had a long ride, the 
 Major piloting as far as he knew the country, and our wits sup- 
 plying the rest. This place is a labyrinth of roads. And so 
 we scrambled over hills and through all sorts of by-paths ; one 
 turn took us unexpectedly into the court-yard of a friend of the 
 Major's, who he thought was living several miles distant. Ano- 
 ther brought us into our hotel yard, which, as it was near break- 
 fast, was hitting two marks rather closely. After breakfast I 
 called on a son of Judge L . He was in the midst of carpen- 
 ters and masons, a recent gale having nearly blown his house 
 down. He is a coffee-planter. Like most other persons he abuses 
 the present government of Madras. They are not willing to do 
 anything themselves, or allow joint-stock companies to be formed 
 
 for purposes of business. Mr. L says coffee-planting is 
 
 very profitable and not expensive. Plants well managed, will, in 
 eight years, bring a profit of treble the original outlay. While in 
 Ceylon, coffee must sell well to produce twelve per cent. 
 
 April 22d. — I took a long scramble over the hills for a sketch, 
 and after breakfast a pilfering tour through my host's garden, so 
 if there is a " conscience account" to be settled, I'll refer it to you. 
 I returned with pockets laden with flowers, seeds, and slips. 
 To-day I despatched most of my things by carts, under charge 
 of the cook, to Bangalore, a seven days' journey. My butler 
 has followed with my things to meet him half way down the 
 Ghaut. 
 
 April 23, Segoor. — I was in the saddle before daybreak this 
 morning ; not a soul moving but the Major's servant, with whom 
 I left my "salaam" for his master. Halfway to the bungalow I 
 overtook my cook and his carts. He had been caught in the 
 rain, and obliged to change all my baggage, their bullocks refusing 
 
MYSORE. 213 
 
 to go, and when the brutes are indisposed to do so, they kneel 
 and stick their noses in the dirt. Everything had got soaked, 
 and I had a grand time drying my wardrobe. Opposite the bun- 
 galow there is a beautiful cascade, which I sketched. The view 
 descending the Ghaut is very fine, extending over the plains of 
 Mysore. At the bottom of the Ghaut I found my transit coach, 
 as they dignify this two-wheeled apparatus drawn by bullocks. 
 
 April 24, Mysore Bungalow. — A few minutes after I started 
 yesterday, it commenced to rain, accompanied by thunder and 
 lightning, of which I had the full benefit, peal after peal rever- 
 berated along the mountains, as my coach, or cart (whichever 
 you prefer) was crawling along over horrid rough roads. By 
 midnight I had passed the worst part of the way — a jungle of teak 
 and iron wood. The former has an immense leaf, that of the 
 latter is not much larger than a dollar. Finding a bungalow, I 
 stopped and took dinner at this fashionable hour — one must con- 
 form to fashion wherever he goes. Two hours after I passed 
 another bungalow, and near it two gentlemen were enjoying the 
 storm in a hut. Then composed myself to sleep. At daybreak 
 I was woke by my servant to see a distant pagoda with gilt 
 ornaments on the tower. It was quite an unusual thing for a 
 Mussulman to notice a Hindoo temple, and much more so, for 
 him to think it worth attracting another person's attention to. 
 
 At nine I reached Mysore and passed through the town. The 
 principal street was strongly perfumed w^ith the odor of tube- 
 roses which they were arranging for some festival. Going out of 
 the other side of the city, in a few minutes we were at the bun- 
 galow. Found all but two miserable little rooms occupied. 
 Making myself as comfortable in them as circumstances would 
 
 admit, I sent my letter of introduction from Major H , to 
 
 Major C , who commands the Rajah's troops. 
 
 This afternoon, strolled through the town, which has been well 
 fortified for a native city. Hyder Ali removed part of the forti- 
 fications to Seringapatam, to strengthen that place, but since Tip- 
 
214 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 poo Sultan's death the liajah has resided here. The Palace is a 
 formidable looking structure for size, built of brick, chunam and 
 wood, without the least pretension to beauty. There are several 
 Hindoo temples in the town, with gilded ornaments on the tops 
 of the towers. Among the live curiosities are two bears in a 
 cage. This evening I received a note from Major C pro- 
 mising to call in the morning, and saying it would be impossible 
 to see the palace — a difficulty I apjDrehended, — as it is always a 
 troublesome affair to attain in these countries. 
 
 April 2o(h. — My servant had just got my room in order this 
 morning, when be announced that the gentleman had come ; I told 
 him to ask him in, when whom should he bring in but a fellow- 
 lodger in the bungalow — a clergyman, who was as much surprised 
 at being brought in, as I was at seeing him. However, we were 
 
 soon in pleasant conversation. Shortly after came Major C , 
 
 a tall, thin man, whom I found very agreeable. He regretted 
 he had not been able to get me into the palace, and, though 
 thinking it impossible yesterday, had called this morning, when 
 the request was refused. He gave me all the information to be 
 had about the j^lace and Seringapatam. There is little to say 
 about this city, it having always been of minor importance until 
 of late years — Seringapatam having formerly been the capital and 
 citadel — even the French regiments never came here, though the 
 fortifications were constructed by their engineers. 
 
 Major C invited me to the " Hill," where he is residing 
 
 during the hot weather; but I declined. This afternoon I 
 scratched away at some half-finished sketches, wrote up my 
 journal, and then took a " constitutional " on the ramparts. A 
 ragged sepoy came up, and making a most angular salutation, 
 tried to communicate something; at the same time an old grey- 
 bearded Mussulman approached and with a profound salaam, put 
 a series of interrogatories — "Gentleman — officer — come see? — 
 make roads? — where going?" — evidently my official rank had 
 reached him. I satisfied him on some points, but did not disturb 
 
HISTORY OF IIYDER ALL 215 
 
 the official impressions. I then made a scrawling sketch of some 
 pagoda towers, arid part of the fortifications, as a souvenir — for in 
 reality there is nothing worth sketching here. 
 
 Near the town is a fine large tank or pool, in which I saw some 
 elephants enjoying a bath. Such tanks are frequently to be met 
 with in this part of the country, which is very flat, witli light 
 soil. They are usually small streams dammed up to make reser- 
 voirs for irrigating the land. There are a few bungalows of the 
 English officers, and the Eajah's palace, near the fort. The 
 greater part of the town forms a suburb to the fort. This was, 
 and is the Hindoo town. The history of Hyder All's dynasty 
 and family is short — and I will give it to you as told me by 
 Major Codrington. Hyder Ali was a Mussulman by birth, and 
 a petty officer in a sort of police at Mangalore, Calicut, or one of 
 the small towns on the west coast. Being clever and bold, he 
 gTadually rose in position, until he got influence enough for a 
 rebellion, when he dethroned the Hindoo monarch, and installed 
 himself in his place, taking with him his religious creed. He 
 made Seringapatam his capital. It is strong by nature, and 
 vastly more so by art — ^for he came to the throne at the time of the 
 French and English contests in India, and had the assistance of 
 the French engineers. With the death of Tippoo Sultan, at the 
 storming of Seringapatam terminated the independence of the 
 kingdom. The present Eajah (his grandson I believe) is a mere 
 dependent of the English. They allow him to keep about a 
 
 thousand soldiers, who guard the palace. Major C gave 
 
 me a full account of the force. There are " life guards," artillery, 
 hussars, and half-a-dozen other branches of the service. On the 
 Rajah's birth-day, they get up a mock fight, and have a grand 
 
 affair. There are always some balls brought to Major C 
 
 afterwards with complaints of the soldiers having fired them. 
 
 Ajml 26lh, Seringapatam.— Last night rose at two, and by 
 three was off for this place. While waiting for the people to 
 pack up my things, an officer came up in his transit carriage, andi 
 
216 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 taking mc, cither by supposition or information, for a brother 
 officer, commenced "shop talk" (army conversation). Being 
 tired of exposing imposed plumes, I talked away about regi- 
 mental stations, court-martials, "chicar" (large game, tiger, etc.), 
 and all the other stereotyped topics of an Indian officer, leaving 
 him doubtless, under the impression that I was a " right jolly 
 fellow," and ignorant of my name and rank further than the 
 butler had posted hiin up. 
 
 At five, reached this place, and was soon installed in the 
 palace of Ilydcr Ali and Tippoo Sultan. It is a very large two- 
 story building, with a multitude of carved columns on bases, of 
 polished black basalt. The wooden caps were once green and 
 red, polished and gilded ; but now, with the partition wall in 
 many places (a modern invention), are thickly coated with 
 whitewash. In front is a fine balcony, from which I saw, in an 
 enclosure directly opposite the palace, eiglity-four pyramids of 
 cannon balls — twelve-pounders I thought. From a rough cal- 
 culation, there w^ere near 7.000 balls. 
 
 Getting a munchil (this time a cane bedstead with a pole and 
 awning), marched off with a guide to the spot where the English 
 troops entered at the storming of Seringapatam. It was an 
 immensely strong place, "svith an exterior protection of a rocky, 
 rapid river (the (^avery), a deep moat, and a tremendously thick 
 high wall, well arranged with screens for cannon, and occasional 
 batteries. Behind the wall is a deep moat filled with water, 
 another moat, and fortifications requiring stout hearts for storm- 
 ing — and the English had them. 
 
 Here the Duke of Wellington first saw severe service. He 
 was here at first defeated in a niarht attack, though the next 
 night he was successful. After the capture he was appointed to 
 the command of the place. From here I went to the house 
 where the Duke was said to have resided. But about this, the 
 munchil men differed — quite an untoward occurrence, and spoil- 
 ing the romance. A good guide, with tolerable knowledge of 
 circumstances, a glowing imagination, and a good share of ere- 
 
TOMB AND MOSQUE OF IIYDER ALL 217 
 
 dulity yourself, add most ostensibly to tlie pleasures of sight- 
 seeing. Facts will be facts, and close inspection often dispels the 
 enchantment and romance that distance has thrown around it, 
 until your guide commences his eloquent account or history of 
 the matter, and warming with his theme, almost brings before 
 your eyes the combat at the walls, or whatever else the subject 
 may be. 
 
 I then went to Lans^-Bano-, where stands the mausoleum 
 erected by Tippoo Sultan over his father's remains. Here repose 
 Hyder Ali, his wife, and son Tippoo Sultan. Turbulent, fierce, 
 and relentless as they were, now " life's fitful fever " o'er, they 
 rest tranquilly under the noble dome and canopied tomb hung 
 with garlands of tuberoses — the most emblematic flower for the 
 native tastes. Opposite is the mosque, to which the bigots 
 refused me admittance. I told the " guardiano " I had been inside 
 of more and handsomer mosques than he had ever seen. As 
 my speech was delivered by the guide, a Hindoo I judged from 
 the guardiano's, face there was an addition to it. Neither the 
 mosque nor tomb are as handsome or as large as those at Beeja- 
 porc, or the tomb as fine as the one at Aurungabad. The tomb 
 was the only thing to sketch, as it was historically interesting. 
 So I went up to the top room of the gateway of the garden, and 
 there, crosslegged in the window, sat and sketched it. 
 
 The tomb and the mosque are situated on a large terrace. I 
 next went to the summer garden of Tippoo and his father. It 
 is a curious building, somewhat in Saracenic style. On the 
 exterior walls is an almost invisible painting, representing the 
 defeat of Colonel Bailie by Hyder Ali and Tippoo Sultan. It 
 is a very curious affair, but so injured by time and exposure it 
 is nearly obliterated. Went on to the gateway where Tippoo 
 was killed in trying to escape during the siege. Thence to the 
 Hall of Audience, where he was sitting in the full confidence of 
 the impregnability of his stronghold, when a cannon ball struck 
 a column about twenty feet from the spot. Thence I went to the 
 top of the minaret of a mosque, where I had a fine view. The 
 
218 FROil "WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 fortifications were immensely strong, the result of experienced 
 French engineer officers, of whom there was a large number in 
 the army, and even after the former visitation of the British to 
 the walls, there had been for six years previous to the last 
 attack, six thousand men at work strengthening them. Now to 
 the bungalow and off for Bangalore, for the climate is too sickly 
 for a stranger to think of sleeping here. 
 
 April 27th, Bangalore. — I had a pleasant journey on to this 
 place, though nothing of particular interest was to be seen on 
 the way. The country is undulating, the soil very light, com- 
 pared with that on the western coast of India, or the interior of 
 the Bombay Presidency. At midnight stopped at a famous large 
 bungalow for dinner. 
 
 This morning, coming in, saw a number of tombs ; and the 
 fort of Bangalore, which was stormed, after a severe battle had 
 been fought under it during the Carnatic wars. It is now onlv 
 a monument to the officers who fell. At the bungalow I satisfied a 
 ravenous appetite. This much accomplished, I took a carriage and 
 
 called to present my letter of introduction from Judge L to 
 
 Captain M •. I found him at home, and was much puzzled 
 
 at his taciturn manner, so different from the frank, friendly air 
 
 described by Judge L . But that soon vanished as the 
 
 cause came out. After a few minutes of dry conversation, he said 
 he had been trying to see how he could accommodate me in his 
 bungalow, but found he would not be able to make me comfort- 
 able, as he already had one friend staying with him, and was 
 hourly expecting another with his wife, and his house was small. 
 So he suggested the hotel as the most comfortable arrangement 
 he could propose, I soon relieved him from any embarrass- 
 ment by remarking that, I thought he had already engaged to 
 accommodate more friends, than ought to be required of any 
 bachelor. 
 
 One o'clock sounded from the " mess house " of his regiment, 
 a short distance off, so he proposed we should go over and take 
 
A REGIMENTAL DINNER. 219 
 
 " tiffin." I was there introduced to many of liis fellow-officers, 
 tliougli most of his regiment, (the artillery) are in Eangoon 
 (Burmah.) We then had a game of billiards and returned to his 
 house. He apologized for not asking me to dine, as he was 
 engaged for a dinner party at his colonel's, and most of the other 
 members of the " mess " were to join dinner parties, or other 
 messes. But he engaged me for the next day, and to drive out 
 with him that afternoon. I had a pleasant drive with him and 
 heard the band, of which there is one from some one of the 
 regiments, playing every evening. There is a circle of two or 
 three hundred feet in diameter, in which the band plays, and 
 around which the carriages drive, and all the ladies and gentle- 
 men of the station meet there in carriages, cabs, dog carts, or the 
 saddle, for a pleasant hour to hear the music and see each other. 
 I then drove home. 
 
 April 28. — At twelve I drove to Captain M 's, and whiled 
 
 away most of the day at his house, reading papers, or talking 
 with hmi and other officers there, or at the mess house. This 
 afternoon drove with some of the officers, and this evening dined 
 at the mess. It was my first regimental dinner — quite a pleasing 
 novelty — a dinner company composed entirely of officers, all in 
 undress — no one being allowed to come in citizen's dress. The 
 dinner service was very handsome, it belonged to the regiment, 
 as is always the case in the English or Company's service, where 
 all the officers are obliged to dine together at a mess, and married 
 officers once or twice a week, and thus by successive purcl^ases 
 and gifts, after a few years, it becomes very large and elegant. 
 
 Capt. ;M invited me to go and see his regiment, (the light 
 
 artillery) exercise the next morning. He had got the Colonel to 
 order them out, or what was left of the regiment in India, as he 
 thought I should be pleased to see them. As my horse had not 
 yet arrived, he offered to give me "a mount," and have him on 
 the ground for me. 
 
220 FRO:^[ WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 Ajyril 29. — As everything military is done at an early hour in 
 India on account of the heat, I was off shortly after four for the 
 plain. As I passed the hussar lines, they there mounting for a 
 drill, and the artillery was waiting the arrival of the officers. 
 
 In a few minutes they came up, and Captain M 's servant 
 
 followed, leading a beautiful little chestnut Arab — one of his race 
 horses. We all galloped off to the plain ; and after two hours 
 manoeuvring, in which they performed admirably, and I was 
 much interested, they were dismissed, and greatly to my delight 
 too, for the little Arab I rode, was just out of training for racing, 
 and though, when walking, very quiet, the moment I put him 
 on a gallop, as I was obliged to do occasionally to more closely 
 observe the manoeuvres, and sometimes to avoid the unex- 
 pected evolutions of the regiment, the galloping of the regi- 
 ment set him wild, and he was soon off at full speed, and almost 
 eyery instant with his head between his legs, and heels in the 
 air as if a good run with such antics was the funniest thing in 
 the world. In this opinion we did not at all agree ; for he being 
 much below the ordinary height of a saddle horse, and my length 
 of leg rather greater than the standard, added to a nicely kept 
 saddle, as smooth as if polished, and well ironed drilling trow- 
 sers, I was in momentary danger of being " spilt," and run over 
 by the gun carriages or horses ; for, though in good practice, I 
 was sadly at a loss to manage such a superfluity of legs on the 
 diminutive body of this fantastic brute. 
 
 As we rode back, M asked me to be introduced to his 
 
 colonel, a pleasant person, with whom I had some fifteen minutes 
 conversation, when he bid us good morning. Then the other 
 
 officers and I continued on with M to his house for 
 
 breakfast; we were soon joined by some of the officers of the 
 
 15th Hussars, who dropped in as they said, to try M 's "brew 
 
 of tea," hearing it was the best in the cantonment. After break- 
 fast, we all went out to look at, and give our opinion on some 
 Arabs, a young Londoner with more money than brains, and 
 more assurance than both, with the pleasing sobriquet of 
 

 i5K 
 
I 
 
HOSPITALITIES OF THE MILITARY. 221 
 
 "Little Cheek" from his unblushing assurance, had selected to 
 take his choice from ; he much amused us by his praise of their 
 fine points. " Just look at their legs ! did you ever see more 
 perfect round legs?" "We all collapsed. We had a right jolly 
 
 time until nine, when we all started for our homes, and M 
 
 to his office, being Assistant Adjutant-General of this division. 
 
 My horse and two servants have arrived. This afternoon being 
 
 showery, the band was not out, and as M 's cab horses 
 
 will get lame like others, he is reduced to the saddle, and I use 
 a palanquin coach. I took a drive after the shower, and then 
 went to the " mess," it being company night. One night in the 
 week is company night with every regiment in India. Then, 
 almost every officer has a guest. On other nights he may or 
 may not. This evening there were two of the hussar officers 
 here, that I had met in the morning, besides several infantry 
 officers, with all of whom I became acquainted and had a very 
 nice evening. 
 
 M and I are to dine at the hussar mess to-morrow 
 
 evening. M being the senior officer of his regiment here, 
 
 presides, and being a capital good fellow, is the life of the table, 
 
 reminding me much of Major W of our own army, both 
 
 being about equally great favorites with all who know them. 
 He told me, this evening, to come down to breakfast to-morrow, 
 and send my horse, as his house is such a rendezvous, it would 
 be a good place to show him off. 
 
 April SOlh. — Down to M 's this morning, and sure enough 
 
 there was a party — of six — when I arrived. Breakfast being dis- 
 posed of, my horse was brought up to the door, and thoroughly 
 examined, very generally admired as usual for looks and high 
 breeding ; and being for sale, was freely canvassed, all was in his 
 favor, except his unfortunate back, which, from the saddle and 
 
 bad grooming, was sore. M sent for the farrier of his 
 
 regiment, and to have the horse convenient, has put him in his 
 own stable. 
 
222 FROM WAT.L STI^EET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 Indian ofticcrs and civilians,* as a body, are a most hospitable, 
 good-liearted people. The following is an instance of disinterest- 
 edness. M told me this morning, as his friend and his wife 
 
 wished to spend a month in the place, and as he could not find 
 a house for them, and his own was too small for them to be com- 
 fortable in, he had arranged with another officer of his regiment, 
 to give up his liouse^ and come and stay with him for the month. 
 Fancy the good-nature of a man who w^ould give up all the com- 
 fortable arrangements of his own bachelor snuggery, and put up 
 with a single room for a month to accommodate another man's 
 
 friend ! M has only just been relieved of an acquaintance 
 
 who has been making him a visit for a ivhole year f 
 
 I wish you could see his beautiful garden! Unfortunately 
 the majority of his flowering plants won't grow from slips; 
 thus my predatory propensities wull not be brought to bear on 
 his premises, or those of the other people here, who have such 
 quantities of beautiful flowering plants and trees, I don't know 
 how I can help you, unless you can send me Herr Alexander's 
 or some other conjuror's magic wand, — I should think they 
 must be sufficiently potent by this time, for two years ago I saw 
 some of them in Paris brina; two dozen bottles of wine out of a 
 hat, and bird cage with singing birds from a backgammon board ; 
 and if they had the assistance of an evil spirit to help them then, 
 certainly the wand by this time has increased to a two or three 
 
 * In India the service is divided into civil and military, and until lately, all 
 appointments were made by interest, every Director having several in his 
 family, which he used or gave his friends. The civil service is the best pay, 
 and they rank highest in India, though out of it, the army docs. But army 
 officers, often by influence, distinction, or great cleverness, get civil appoint- 
 ments, and thus receive the pay from both services, and without doing duty 
 with their regiments, they continue to be promoted, and often reach the highest 
 positions in time, as Sir Henry Lawrence, General Outram, and others. In 
 speaking of civilians, I always mean those appointes or employes of the 
 government ; all other English people in India are only shopkeepers, with the 
 exception of a few merchants in the cities, or indigo and coffee planters scat- 
 tered about the country. 
 
THE HUSSAR MESS. 223 
 
 devil "power;" and who knows wliat I might effect for you out 
 here with such a powerful agency. 
 
 This morning I got myself up quite en regie to call on the 
 General of Division here, General Sewell (an old Peninsular 
 officer, who wears the Peninsular medal with fourteen clasps, 
 for distinguished services), and the Brigadier of the station, as 
 
 M saj's it is etiquette for me to call on all the principal 
 
 officials here and in every station ; and nothing could be said 
 against it, for having been presented to their queen, my position 
 was settled with every Englishman. Unfortunately the General 
 was out, and the Brigadier was engaged. 
 
 Returning home, saw fourteen large hawks sitting on the roof 
 of a bungalow, and about fifty yards distant the same number 
 of pigeons on a stable, apparently quite indifferent to their 
 neighbors. The hawks and crows are the greatest possible 
 friends. I hear them cawing and screaming all day long, fre- 
 quently on the tops of the houses and stables with yards of 
 poultry quite unconcerned. 
 
 This afternoon drove to the band ; after seeing the ladies and 
 
 my officer friends, I took M in, and drove to the hussar 
 
 mess. The greater part of the regiment being here, they spread 
 a very large table. They are the 15th, one of the Queen's crack 
 regiments. The silver dinner service was very handsome, every 
 new officer, including the colonels, being expected to make a 
 present of a piece of silver. 
 
 In India they continue the custom of taking wine with each 
 other, and I believe I took wine with two-thirds of the offi- 
 cers at table. The colonel, or senior officer present, always 
 presides at one end, and the other officers take their turn for 
 
 a week at the opposite end. My host. Lieutenant S , was 
 
 enjoying his week there. The mess-house, like those at all the 
 stations, is very fine, and partially supported by government, 
 which allows every mess a certain annual sum towards defraying 
 its expenses. Three or four of my acquaintances here have 
 most familiar faces, very much resembling some intimate friends 
 
224 FKOM WALL STEEET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 at home: the only difference, the moustaclie. They are all 
 scions of nobility, I don't know how they would like to be 
 compared with their democratic cousins across the Atlantic, 
 though I think they are all too good fellows to be more than 
 amused at it, as I always find English gentlemen well disposed 
 towards us; besides, we are "the people," princes, and sove- 
 reigns — so that I am "peer to any lord in Scotland here," 
 without availing myself of my Norman baron ancestor who 
 fought at Hastings, and all the succeeding adjuncts of illustrious 
 name, including the one only nobleman who has the hereditary 
 right to stand covered before royalty, that my old clerical relative 
 who called on me in London, gave such a dissertation about. 
 
 The English bring their love of sport to this hot climate, and 
 I will give you a few instances of the trouble they take for a little 
 shooting. A few days ago several were making a calculation of 
 the miles they had rode for game (snipe), and the number they 
 
 had shot ; S had killed most; and ridden to and from the 
 
 ground (which they reach by relays of horses, going sixty to one 
 hundred miles on a stretch), seven himdred miles, and shot three 
 hundred brace; and another of my hussar acquaintances had 
 rode six hundred miles, and shot two hundred and fifty brace ; 
 and another had rode Jive hundred miles to kill one hundred 
 and fifty brace. At another time, to get some elephant shooting, 
 
 during a three days' leave, S rode one hundred and tiventy 
 
 miles out, and the same back. Spent a capital evening. 
 
 May 1st, Sunday. — This morning to St. Mark's (familiar 
 name) — the infantry church ; this evening to the cavalry church, 
 and dined at the mess. 
 
 May 2d. — Two nags were brought to the door this morning, 
 with a message from the livery stablekeeper for me to take the 
 one I liked. This was easier said than done. One had horrid 
 wicked looking eyes, and generally so weak, I was afraid my 
 ride might terminate in pedestrianism ! The other had one 
 blind eye, and almost equally weak legs — I decided on the 
 
SPEECH-MAKING, 225 
 
 latter — and such a brute ! However, I got to the race course ; 
 saw the horses training, and hussars drilling. One of them was a 
 
 captain, a relative of General K— of our army. He said he 
 
 was in*Canada during the troubles in 1838, and knew many of 
 our army officers. 
 
 This afternoon drove to the band, and this evening dined, by 
 
 invitation of K at the hussar mess ; I had a very pleasant 
 
 time, and being guest-night, met a great number of visitors. In 
 the course of the evening I had my nervous system tremendously 
 discomposed. One of the officers rose, and proposed the health 
 of an officer who had just returned from England. The instant 
 after, another rose and commenced a speech, premising with how 
 much pleasure it afforded them to show any attention in their, 
 power to strangers, and especially on this occasion, which was a 
 very rare one (turning to me), etc., and concluded wnth pro- 
 posing the health of the President of the United States, which 
 was drunk standing, and with cheers. My nervous system 
 worked up to a fever point of excitement in "prodigious" short 
 time, as the whole thing was so unexpected, having dined here 
 so quietly the last time, and now the idea of making a speech at 
 a moment's notice, before thirty or forty strangers, the leading 
 grey-heads of the station, besides the brigadier, colonels, majors, 
 etc., although I had been taking wine with most of them. Yet, 
 being in for it, I rose, and in a short speech, returned thanks 
 for the compliments, and friendly feelings that had been ex- 
 pressed towards my country, and myself, etc., etc., and gave the 
 Queen, which was drunk standing, of course. I sat down amidst 
 cheers, right glad when it was through. Several speeches and 
 toasts were given during the evening. One guest, an ensign in 
 a native cavalry regiment, becoming excited on lemonade, 
 whistled on his cigar case, looking the brigadier full in the face, 
 much to the amusement of all the table except his host, who 
 was a very nice gentlemanly fellow, and received momentary 
 congratulations on the fine spirits of his guest. 
 
 15 
 
22G FROM AVALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 May 3. — Our morning rendezvous — the course and M 's 
 
 then home, and while in the midst of packing up my seeds the 
 servant came up with the Brigadier's card (Colonel of the 44th 
 Queen's), he made me a pleasant visit, and invited me \o dine 
 with him on Friday at his house. Dined at home to-day. 
 
 May 4. — This morning, by invitation of K , rode to the 
 
 plain to see his regiment manoeuvre; they made a splendid 
 appearance. Getting home, re-labelling and packing away my 
 seeds. Oh, patience ! I've spent twelve good hours within three 
 days getting them in order, destroying worms and insects, occa- 
 sionally being obliged to throw away whole packages, for the 
 ^entire insect world seemed at war with me ; and yet with all their 
 destruction I have thus far put up seventy-seven kinds of seeds, 
 besides many more I have at the bottom of my carpet bags. I 
 find that one of the books with collections of flowers for my 
 herbarium, was greatly injured when it got wet coming down from 
 the Neilgherries, and thus most of my collection of souvenirs from 
 Munich to this place was ruined — it was most annoying after all 
 my trouble to collect and preserve them. 
 
 To-day, at the hussar racket court, where I got a very good 
 idea of the origin of the liver complaint, and various like agree- 
 abilities that give the Indian emploijes^ civil and military, their 
 happy chances of " doing John Company" in sick leave, (the 
 slang phrase used when a man gets sick leave, his pay still con- 
 tinuing and he enjoying himself elsewhere, " barring" this ail- 
 ment, when he d — ns that eternal blue sky). I frequently heard 
 them laugh about the way they had " done John Company ;" 
 and one man told me, with the greatest glee, he had been in the 
 service fourteen years, and had " done the Company nine years 
 and some months, and was then applying for another sick leave." 
 The officers played racket all the morning exposed to the hot 
 sun, always dangerous in India. Then we took a hearty " tiffin" 
 of Mullagatawny soup, cold meats, or hot chops, etc., with " half- 
 
PRECAUTIONS IN PACKING SEEDS. 227 
 
 and-half " and sherry ; and they continued the racket as soon as 
 they had smoked their segars. 
 
 Drove out this afternoon to see the Fort of Bangalore, from 
 which the natives have been expelled, and their houses occupied 
 by bungalows and barracks. It was planned by a French engi- 
 neer, has high walls and deep moat; with one entrance extra- 
 ordinarily well defended, and the other with no natural or other 
 defences. Then to the band, and home to dine — the mess-rooms 
 being vacated by dinner parties. 
 
 May 5. — This morning I went to my usual rendezvous for break- 
 fast, news, and gossip. Then home, scrawled away at some half- 
 finished sketches, and packed away my seeds for the last time I 
 hope — and effectually too — for I've put them in half-a-dozen 
 covers, \sdth half a pound of red pepper, tied them up in a bag 
 and then an india-rubber sheet, Now if the insects get in I shall 
 give up. I find I've just eighty-eight varieties of seeds — besides 
 a number that have gone on to Calcutta with my other things. 
 I took a famous long drive this afternoon, then to the band, and 
 the artillery mess to dine. 
 
 May Gth. — Took my early drive by the monkey "tope" 
 (grove), as it is called ; I saw seven or eight hundred monkeys. 
 The natives never disturb them, and the brutes wander about the 
 
 road, perfectly indifferent to the carriages. Then to M 's ; 
 
 sold my horse ; went home and packed off a lot of things to 
 Madras. I had a visit from two hussar officers, who had come 
 to invite me to dine at the mess to-morrow eveninsr. But I was 
 obliged to decline, as I must start to-night. They then proposed 
 to-night, which I had to decline also, as I was to dine at the 
 brigadier's. One of the officers told me he had some friends in 
 the Bengal Presidenc}^, and would give me a letter to each, 
 which was exceedingly kind, as I have never been introduced 
 to either, and our only acquaintance was from their having seen 
 me at their mess-table, the guest of their friends. The letters will 
 
228 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 be very acceptable : they are to the Queen's regiments, I believe. 
 I speak in the way they do here. The term Queen's being in 
 contra-distinction to the Company's regiments of English, (termed 
 European) or native regiments. The army of the Queen and 
 Company being quite separate. The English government lend 
 the Company about twenty thousand troops, of infantry and 
 cavalry, who thus have occupation, and often see severe service. 
 The English government pay to the East India Company the 
 amount of money due these troops, according to the English 
 pay ; then the India government pays them according to their 
 own pay, which is nearly treble ; so that often, when the regi- 
 ments are ordered to return to England, the of&cers and men 
 exchange into the new regiment, that they may remain in the 
 country and receive the high pay. These troops are divided 
 between the three presidencies, Bengal, Madras, and Bombay, 
 the larger portion being in Bengal, which is double the size of 
 either of the others, and includes all the north of India, except 
 Scinde, There are in Bengal about ninety-five regiments, which, 
 with engineers, sappers, and artillery, make about 120,000 men. 
 Madras has seventy regiments, with about 80,000 men ; and Bom- 
 bay forty regiments, and 45,000 men. This is the present peace 
 arrangement; besides which, there are about 60,000 of local corps, 
 body-guards, militia, etc., officered from the line, who with the 
 Queen's troops, form an army of nearly 330,000 strong. All but 
 about sixteen of the Company's regiments are native troops, 
 officered by Europeans. As long as they are led by European 
 officers, they will fight well — but Sir Charles Napier remarked in 
 his last battle fought in India, that the fall of an officer was a 
 signal for the troops to falter. But that was one of the most 
 severe battles ever fought in India. The pay of both civil and 
 military service is capital : the civil much the largest. Why, a 
 boy ensign, when he first arrives here from school, receives his 
 $1500 per annum ; when he becomes a lieutenant, he has a chance 
 for a staff appointment, which may run it up to $6000. A 
 colonel in the artUlery or infantry, $8000 ; in the cavalry, 
 
A MODEL OF PUNCTUALITY. 229 
 
 $9000 ; if on the staff, it is increased $3000 more. This is field 
 or active service allowance. But there is very little difference 
 between the peace and war rates. On retiring from the service 
 for ill-health, or for long service, after five to thirty-five years, 
 they receive from $250 to $3,500 per annum, while the civil 
 service is still better off. 
 
 The jingling of the " tapal " (postman) reminds me that I have 
 not spoken on this subject. The mails are for the most part 
 carried by runners, except on a few principal routes, where 
 post-carts are used. The mail is strapped on the man's back ; 
 in one hand he carries a staff or long cane, with two or three 
 bells attached — to frighten away snakes and wild animals, I 
 fancy ; in his other hand a torch. They jingle the bells merrily 
 as they speed their course by day or night, of about five miles 
 an hour. Every six miles they are reheved. I often met them 
 with their glimmering light and lively bells, as I made my 
 midnight marches. 
 
 To-day busy packing up. This afternoon to the band, to bid 
 my ofiicer acquaintances good-bye. Met ^I , who, as he pro- 
 mised this morning, gave me a package of letters to friends and 
 relatives in the north of India — Meerut, Umballah, and Pesha- 
 wur. Then to the Brigadier's, who, I knew prided himself on 
 being the most punctual man on the station. He was alone 
 and looking at the clock. I was a few minutes before the time, 
 and I suppose quite won his heart by it. The others did not 
 come in for some time ; nearly all of them I knew. There were 
 four hussar officers, and the colonel and major of the Queen's 
 9-ith. The colonel laughed at them for their military time. 
 Then we all went in to dinner, when, to my surprise, I found I 
 was the guest of the evening. I expect I shall get " stuck-up " 
 
 before long. I had a delightful time. K , and another 
 
 officer, who had been in America, made a recital of their plea- 
 sures there half the topic of conversation when conversing with 
 me. Then home, and in a few minutes I was off for a forty- 
 eight hours' drive to Madras. 
 
230 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 May 8ih, (Sunday,) Madras. — Started Friday night, and all yes- 
 terday and to-day jolted on with nothing special to interest, stop- 
 ping only to change bullocks or horses, and a short time morning 
 and evening for breakfast and dinner. The country in some parts 
 is well cultivated, and tolerably fertile, though mostly light soil 
 and flat, except the Ghauts. Passed yesterday the barrier between 
 the Mysore country and the Carnatic — that being the name for 
 the part on the sea-side of the Ghauts. Yesterday morning we 
 stopped at a bungalow, and as I got out tired and heated by 
 jolting, and the sun, a gentleman in the adjoining room had pity 
 on my forlorn condition, and sent me a cup of tea. To-day I 
 passed near an old temple, in front two huge sitting figures, which 
 seemed from their smiling faces to enjoy the sun far more than I 
 did. Shortly after, I passed the fine fort of Belloon with a deep 
 moat ; a mile distant a mountain crested by a chain of forts. 
 
 This morning crossed the almost dry bed of a large river — the 
 Palar. Here the horses were unhitched, and about a hundred 
 men dragged the carriage over, — probably a distance of a mile. 
 In the wet season many people are drowned, and carts swept 
 away. It swells so rapidly they are often caught midway, and 
 before they are able to get across, they are borne away by the 
 force of the rapid torrent. 
 
 This afternoon passed half-a-dozen sportsmen in a tent. I 
 reached this place at half-past nine, and found accommodation at 
 a large family hotel. According to the custom here, they put 
 bachelors by themselves, and thus they gave me a cottage or small 
 bungalow in the garden, where luckily I am alone, for it's so hot 
 I might be pugnacious — I don't think it can be much hotter 
 down below — why, the air is so hot my breath almost hisses. 
 
 May 9iJi. — Thank fortune I'm alive, and barely too, though I 
 had two men pulling a " punka " all night to keep me cool — 
 such a^purgatorial night — but I endured it with the fortitude of 
 a martyr. This morning sent a letter of introduction to Dr. 
 B , the nearest of the three to whom I had letters. 
 
•Sketched by tlu- Aiitli<>r. 
 
 .•• e ■ pHge ; S"i. 
 
 TOM r, OK inuAiM AiuL >iiAii, r,i:i .iai':'I:e. 
 
•'n 
 
 ^^er. 
 
 *h 
 
 ■Ha ■ 
 
 '?■ 
 
CIVILITIES OF THE OFFICIALS. 231 
 
 "W , the Governor's Secretary, having gone to Egypt and 
 
 Dr. H too far off, and what's worse yet, I've lost my two 
 
 letters of introduction from Capt. W , one to Sir Henry 
 
 Pottinger the Governor of Madras, and the other to Sir George 
 Wilson the Governor of Ceylon. 
 
 I was sitting half dressed, reposing after the fatigues of break- 
 fast, when the servant returned with a note, and immediately 
 followed by another with a card, (before I had time to read the 
 
 note) and information that Dr. B was here. He was ushered 
 
 in at one door, while I made a hasty exit by the other. After a 
 minute's toilet I returned and found a gentleman in a military 
 undress. He said he had been written to about me, three months 
 before ; that as the Governor had a state brealrfast that morning, 
 he had stopped for me, tliinking I might like to go there. Dr. 
 
 B is somewhat of a personage here, being one of the 
 
 Governor's Body Guard, besides Political Eesident at the court of 
 the Rajah of the Carnatic, who resides here. We soon reached 
 the Governor's, who lives four miles from this, which is about 
 two miles from the town, but where all the employes, civil and 
 military, of the government live. There were some fifty persons 
 present and all at table; when we arrived we joined them and 
 were soon busy with the knife and fork. 
 
 After breakfast my friend got possession of one of the Gover- 
 nor's aids, and apologizing for not sending my card last night, 
 according to etiquette ; said he would like to present an American 
 gentleman travelling in India, and who had letters to him. 
 
 He reported to the Governor, who suddenly appeared marching 
 towards me. I was introduced. He shook hands, when we walked 
 up and down the hall, about a quarter of an hour, discussing Ameri- 
 can affairs, which he introduced; talking about the new Pre- 
 sident and his speech, which he thought indicated a moretalented 
 and prudent man than his party supposed when they selected 
 him. Then about our expedition to Japan, and its object, which 
 he thought was the protection of our interests, and not to force 
 commerce as is generally supposed. He then questioned me 
 
232 FKOM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 about my travels, when we were suddenly interrupted. He bid 
 me good morning, adding, he hoped to have the pleasure of see- 
 ing me again if I should return to Madras, and in my present 
 journey wished me a pleasant time, health, and good luck (the 
 last term having been often applied to him by his enemies, 
 who speak of him as "that most fortunate man, Sir H. P. ;" and 
 his use of it rather surprised me, as the term annoys him). As 
 what he said and did, was very courteous and polite, I give it 
 at length. 
 
 The Government House is a fine large establishment. The 
 Governor is about sixty-five, medium height, very strongly 
 built, with bright black eyes. He is a Major-General in the 
 Bombay service. This office was the reward of his diplomatic 
 services in China, during the war. We then left, returning by 
 the prison, which we visited, and the Lesser St. Thomas' 
 Mount, where the apostle of that name is said to have suf- 
 fered martyrdom. Some doubt the truth of the report, and 
 so may you, — ^but I saw the veritable blood marks on the 
 stone, and on another stone the impression of his knees where he 
 knelt. Probably some mart3^r suffered death here about fifty 
 years after the time of our Saviour, and St. Thomas has the credit 
 
 of it. Thence to Major B 's the brother of Dr. B . Saw 
 
 him and Mrs. B , an exceedingly pleasing person. The 
 
 brothers are both particularly clever. The Major not being well, 
 was in dishabille, but he was in his private office, and sent out 
 word that he was very anxious to see me, and begged I would 
 excuse his costume, and come in and see him. I had a very 
 pleasant half hour's conversation with him, and then came home, 
 where the Dr. left me to arrange for a palanquin for a trip to 
 the "Seven Pagodas" to-night. 
 
 Joining the Dr. at his own house, I was presented to Mrs, B , 
 
 who is very pretty. Then with a promise to return and dine, 
 we drove to the fort. The Dr. went to his office, and I to look up 
 
 my bankers, Messrs, A & Co. The head of the house here is 
 
 a very pleasant man, a brother of the others ; he had been induced 
 
SIGHT-SEEING. 233 
 
 fx) give up the civil service after being seventeen years in it, and 
 take the management of tlie house here, on a guarantee of no 
 losses, and £12,000 per anmnn, for ten years ! I don't know but 
 I might be tempted too. I wish they would try me. He gave 
 me a nice package of letters, and not the least important among 
 them, Baring & Co.'s new letter of credit. 
 
 Mr. A invited me to stay at his house, as Dr. B had 
 
 already done. But I declined as I had to Dr. B , because I 
 
 feared I should be too troublesome with such a retinue about me. 
 Settling up after my last journey, and preparing for a voyage to 
 Ceylon and China, with servants going and coming, selling my use- 
 less travelling apparatus (as it is better to sell it here, and get other 
 at Calcutta, than carry it with me such a distance), besides, I 
 shall sail in two or three days. After all sorts of kind invita- 
 tions from Mr. A , some accepted, and some necessarily de- 
 clined, I returned to Dr. B 's ofiice, when we went sight-see- 
 ing round the fort. It is strong, and watered by an underground 
 reservoir, the water being brought from a place some miles dis- 
 tant. The arsenal contains 60,000 stand of arms beautifully 
 arranged, and I am informed the largest arsenal in the world ! 
 But I think I saw more in Tula, Eussia, where they make 75,000 
 muskets a year. We then went to see the Chief Engineer of this 
 
 Presidency, Colonel C , one of the most distinguished men 
 
 in his line in India. He is a tall, thin, amiable-looking man, with 
 bright eyes, and fine forehead. We had a long talk, and I left 
 delighted with him. 
 
 I came home and dined at Dr. B 's, where he saved me 
 
 from making an awful blunder. Dr. B asked me what 
 
 kind of a voyage I had from Suez to Bombay, and by what ship ? 
 
 I said only tolerable, and the Akbar. "Oh ! brother W 's 
 
 ship." [I had forgotten they were the same name, nor did I sus- 
 pect such a horrid brute of a captain could possibly be a brother 
 of these gentlemen. On board all English steamers, the captain 
 reads the service Sunday. And this man reading it one Sunday, 
 lost his place by a puff of wind blowing the leaf over, when he 
 
234 FKOM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 nearly "ripped out" au oatli — lie got tlie first syllable out, 
 barely stopping tlie rest ;] so I added (wbicli was really the fact) 
 we bad a long voyage and bad coal. As to the captain, we had 
 seen but little of him (though that little was much more than 
 we desired), as shortly after leaving Suez, he had seen the death 
 of his mother in a paper, and thus was much of the time in his 
 cabin. So I congratulated myself on the good get-off from 
 making an annoying remark to my most kind and attentive host. 
 
 After dinner, Major B and his wife called and invited us 
 
 to dine on Wednesday next. We then took a drive to see the 
 Club House — the most complete establishment of the kind in the 
 world, not excepting the best in London. Returned home, and 
 in a few minutes I am to start for Mahavelaporum, thirty-seven 
 miles down the coast, to see the Seven Pagodas. In the mean- 
 time, two rival sets of bearers are having a fight for the honor 
 of carrying me, and while they are settling the point of honor, I 
 will look over my letters, which, as yet, I've scarcely had time 
 to glance at. 
 
 May 10th, Mahavelaporum. — Started last night at ten, and 
 had a very comfortable night's ride, with a sort of cradle rock, 
 and chorus of my men in lieu of the "lullaby, baby." We got 
 here at seven this morning, thus enabling me to finish my letters 
 as I rode along. There not being a bungalow, I managed to get 
 up a breakfast myself from the hamper the landlord had pro- 
 vided me with. I then set off for the pagodas. The first was a 
 small affair, not more than thirty feet square, looking very new 
 as I found all the others ; but yet so old, they extend back of tra- 
 dition, as I have been informed by those who have thoroughly 
 investigated the subject. There are a few excavations — merely 
 a sort of portico — also carvings and sculpture on the face of 
 some rocks, figures in every sort of lying and lounging attitude, 
 with elephants and tigers at the bottom. I then went on up some 
 rocky hills where there are a few more, and one temple perched 
 on the top of a high hill at some distance — I did not visit it. 
 
BRAIIMINISM. 235 
 
 The second pagoda is on the verge of the surf (they are all 
 very close, none more than from one to three hundred yards 
 from the sea), about a mile further south stand the other five. 
 These are in various styles, though in general, much the same ; 
 and all here except the excavations spoken of, appear to have 
 been made by sculpturing huge granite boulders into temples, 
 for they have not been built — and there is no rock of that kind 
 near here. The edges look as sharp and fresh as if only just 
 finished! One of the pagodas is split, probably by an earth- 
 quake. I climbed to the top of the largest, about thirty feet 
 high. Near these are the figures of an elephant, tiger, and 
 dragon — all in stone, cut from small boulders. The one by the 
 sea-shore, is made out of a species of trap. I took sketches of 
 all, and then had a swim ; which I now learn was very impru- 
 dent, as sharks are so numerous. The sea has evidently en- 
 croached much upon the land here. Then dined, and at dark off 
 for Madras again, having had a very pleasant day, and a nice 
 old guide who provided me with fresh cocoa-nuts for drink (the 
 milk), about the only use they are half the time applied to. Saw 
 some boys playing horse — it looked quite like the children at 
 home. Some of the alto-relievos were very curious, and had 
 they not been so elaborate, I would have drawn them. Among 
 the figures were two monkeys, one phrenologically employed I 
 suppose, from the earnest expression of his face and position of 
 his hands on the other's cranium. 
 
 There are no means of ascertaining when the religion called 
 Brahminism was introduced into India ; but certainly in parts 
 of the country it was as early as fourteen or fifteen hundred 
 years before the Christian era. The books of their religion were 
 called '• Vedas," which the Hindoos believe were delivered from 
 the mouth of Brahma, and put into their books about twelve or 
 thirteen hundred years before Christ. They were written in the 
 early Sanscrit, which differs much from the later Sanscrit. 
 They have also religious and civil laws, called the "Institutes 
 of Menu," and " The Parans.'' The former are somewhat like 
 
236 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 the laws given by Moses ; tlie latter in the form of dialogues 
 Jjetween religious teachers, who were supposed to be divine per- 
 sonages in human form, or inspired sagas and their disciples. 
 There are some eighteen of these books. The " Vedas" teach 
 that there is but one Deity, whom the Hindoos call Brahma. The 
 primary doctrine of the " Vedas" is the unity of Ood. 
 
 There are, however, various forms of Brahminism — mono- 
 theistic, polytheistic, and pantheistic. They have inferior dei- 
 ties; but their usual triad is Brahma the creator, Vishnu the 
 preserver, and Sheva the destroyer of the world. 
 
 The commonly received opinion is, that Brahma created the 
 four primitive castes from his mouth, arms, thighs, and feet. 
 He is described as of a bright yellow, with four faces and hands. 
 Vishnu, as a dark or black man with four arms — he is supposed 
 to have various incarnations. Sheva is described in various 
 forms ; in one with five faces, three eyes, and four hands. 
 
 The Hindoos are also very superstitious about spiritual beings, 
 who are supposed to interfere with temporal affairs, producing 
 many sicknesses and ailments. Of the temples, many are 
 endowments, others are erected by members of families. In the 
 western part of India, the revenues of villages are appropriated 
 to keep the temples in repair, light them, and pay the expense 
 of ceremonies. 
 
 The Bhuddists preceded the Brahmins, and consequently the 
 earliest temples were sculptured by them. They were finally 
 driven out of the country by the Brahmins, after a long and 
 severe contest, when they took refuge in Ceylon, Burmah, and 
 China. 
 
 The number of the sacred days of the Hindoos is very large, 
 besides their lucky and unlucky days. They occasionally offer 
 burnt sacrifices of domestic animals and fowls. Meditation is an 
 important part of their worship ; but seldom prayers in which 
 an assembly unite. Usually each offers an extempore prayer 
 by himself Hymns of praise are seldom sung by any number 
 of worshippers. 
 
ARRIVAL AT MADRAS. 237 
 
 Ascetics and devotees are mucli encouraged among the Hin- 
 doos. They frequently went naked, besmeared with daubs of 
 ashes, until it was lately forbidden by the government. It is 
 often taken advantage of by infamous villains, who commit 
 every crime with impunity under this sacred guise. The Hin- 
 doo idea of the future state is vague, with no punishment for 
 the bad, but for the good, a certain condition of sensual happi- 
 ness. They believe in the transmigration of souls. Sutteeism 
 or self-burning of widows, is not commanded by the " Vedas," 
 but strongly recommended, and encouraged by the natives, as 
 widowhood is a disgrace. 
 
 o 
 
 May ll^A, Madras. — About daylight I arrived at the bunga- 
 low. At half-past seven, off to breakfast with Mr. A , who 
 
 has a beautiful house near the sea-shore. At breakfast I met an 
 ofiicer just from Singapore. He said he had been on board of 
 the Susquehannah, and admired her very much. From here to 
 the ice-house, where I saw the agent. A vessel had just arrived 
 from Boston with ice, and brought some apples ; he gave me a 
 few, which were a delicious treat — it was so long since I had 
 tasted any. Then home, and on to the fort, stopping to rej)ort 
 
 myself to Dr. B , and then to my bankers, with whom I 
 
 " tiffined." I afterwards called on an American who has charge 
 of the missionary press. He very kindly showed me all through 
 their establishment, and told me of the various kinds of charac- 
 ter and languages in which they were obliged to print the 
 numerous bibles and other books required for the extensive mis- 
 sionary labors in this part of India. The missionary press at 
 Bombay doing that for Western India, or the Bombay presi- 
 dency, and that for Northern India being done at still another 
 American missionary press at Agra. 
 
 Americans may well feel a pride in the success of these esta- 
 blishments in India,, which aid so largely in the propagation of the 
 gospel. These presses have so entirely the confidence of the 
 Government, that in addition to work for the missionary labors, 
 
238 FRO.M WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 tlicy have large contracts constantly on hand for the Govern- 
 ment, and thus contribute to their own support. 
 
 Then went home, and this afternoon had a drive, and on to 
 
 Major B \s to dine, where I met Colonel C , and Major 
 
 S , of the Artillery. He inquired how he could get Ameri- 
 can books direct, as he wished some, and particularly Major 
 Mordecai's work on Artillery, which he said was considered in 
 India to be the best practical work on the subject, (they ought 
 to know, for their artillery is very good). They get quantities 
 of such things in India from America. 
 
 The Government has just sent for an American printing j^ress, 
 finding them better than the English/ American, and no other 
 drillings are worn in India by every man, for coats and trowsers. 
 "Yankee clocks," or "Sam Slicks" as they are termed here, 
 ornament every parlor in India, however handsome the other 
 furniture may be. In fact they use no others. After a very 
 pleasant evening, went home. I find the steamer has arrived. 
 
 May 12th. — To the town or "Blacktown" as it is called. 
 Here are all the counting-houses, and places of business. Then, 
 going south over a wide esplanade or plain, you reach the fort of 
 St. George, and about a mile further south, the residences of the 
 employes of the Company and merchants, extending over a 
 circuit of three or four miles. Some of the houses or bunga- 
 lows are very large — often in the style of our own country houses, 
 built of wood or stone stucco. 
 
 Madras was the first territory acquired by the East India 
 Company in India. This they obtained in 1640 by a treaty 
 with a native prince. The Company then erected a fort there, 
 which they called St. George, which has ever since retained that 
 name, and the town retained its own name also, though both 
 have been captured and ceded back by the French. I called to- 
 day on a noble old gentleman — Dr. Scudder, the patriarch mis- 
 sionary of India,* and the father of a whole family of mission- 
 
 * Since I saw him in the summer of 1853, he has died. 
 
MISSIONS IN" INDIA, 239 
 
 aries, all of that same self-devoting nature that he has shown for 
 so many years. 
 
 The first Protestant mission in India, was established by the 
 Danes in 1705, at Tranqucbar on the Coromandel coast — then a 
 Danish possession. 
 
 The London Society for the Promotion of Christian Knowledge, 
 made several efforts for the propagation of Christianity in India. 
 But they were always opposed by the East India Company, as 
 dangerous to the stability and permanence of its power in India. 
 The first Protestant mission in Bombay was commenced by 
 the American Board of Foreign Missions. In 1812, five mis- 
 sionaries, Messrs. Hall, Judson, Newell, Nott, and Rice ! — revered 
 names! — sailed from the United States to Calcutta, to found 
 a mission somewhere in the East Indies. The Governor- General 
 would not allow them to remain^ hut ordered them to leave the country 
 forthwith ! They then left Calcutta, and Messrs. Hall and Nott 
 proceeded to Bombay, where, owing to the friendly influence of 
 Sir Evan Nepean, who favored their cause, they were eventually 
 allowed to remain, and pursue their missionary work. 
 
 In 1818, some changes favorable to the introduction of Chris- 
 tianity into India were made, and the missionary societies soon 
 commenced their missions in the Presidency of Bombay. At 
 this time, nearly one quarter of all the missionaries in India are 
 American, and pursuing their labors with the energy and enter- 
 prise which always characterize American undertakings. The 
 English (both military and civil) often told me the American 
 missionaries were the only real missionaries in India, who worked 
 steadily and untiringly at their duties, and always called them- 
 selves missionaries, and worked as such ; while the English ones 
 called themselves clerks, curates, etc., as if ashamed of the pur- 
 pose for which they came to the country! Many told me they 
 gave their subscriptions for religious purposes to the American 
 missionaries, in preference to their own. 
 
 I am informed by one of the best and oldest of the missionary 
 authorities of Indio, that there are at this tune in India 331 
 
240 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 missionary churclies for ttie natives alone, not including those of 
 the stations for the English, which are under the charge of the 
 chaplains. Some of these missionary churches have 200 or 300 
 members ; others a few only, from being but recently founded. 
 The whole number of communicants is 21,295, which is nearly 
 an average of sixty-four to a church ; while in New England, 
 the most purely congregational of this country, though the 
 churches are more numerous, none (except those in the large 
 cities) have as many members, though many are more than a 
 hundred years old ! while a very large number have not even 
 sixty-four members, which speaks well for the labors of our self- 
 sacrificing countrymen and women. I am now at home, about 
 to pack up, and at six shall be off for Ceylon by the steamer. 
 
 At Sea, May ISth. — Started last night ; we came off in a 
 curious-looking boat — short, wide, and deep, pitching and plung- 
 ing as they pulled her through the surf While getting on 
 board saw two or three " catamarans" — a kind of canoe used by 
 the natives, formed of three bits of log fastened together ; on 
 each of them two nearly naked men, in small conical caps, pro- 
 pelling it with paddles while they kneel. They manage to make 
 them go quite rapidly over, and through the waves. They carry 
 notes to and from the ships to the shore, in the peak of their 
 caps. Getting on board, found a crowd of passengers ; and my 
 cabin, which they told me was one of the best in the ship, was 
 miserable, and had to be shared with two others. 
 
 Madras is usually very pleasant, but lately terribly hot. There 
 are several statues of Lord Cornwallis (of the American Eevolu- 
 tion), who was twice governor of India, and one of Sir Hector 
 Munro. Along the sea-shore a stone wall keeps the high tide 
 from overflowing the land. Near the landing-place stands a fine 
 marine hospital, and nearer still to the European part of the town, 
 the palace of the Eajah of the Carnatic, and in another part of the 
 suburbs are two or three palaces of his wives. He is treated 
 with great courtesy by the Government. 
 
SCENERY AT COLUMBO. 2-41 
 
 May IQili, PoiXT DE Galle, Ceylon. — Anchored here at six 
 this morning ; the passengers pleasant, but the ship horrid, and 
 my cabin especially so — apparently a lounging-place for the ants, 
 cockroaches, and rats ; by night and by day they were prome- 
 nading over me. The washing of the deck was continued to so 
 late an hour in the morning, I was obliged to get a waiter to 
 carry me on his back from the gangway to a seat. Last night 
 was so stormy — and such a sea — one wave swept the length of 
 the ship, ducking us all. I find I shall have to wait here some 
 days for the China steamer, so I shall make a few excursions. 
 As the Suez steamer leaves soon, I must close. 
 
 May 17, Columbo. — At live this morning started for this 
 place. The entire ride was on the seaside, and over a beautiful 
 road. The cocoanut tree, with the exception of the sugar, 
 forms the principal products here. The nut produces oil ; the sap 
 of the tree a kind of rum called bhang, and the fibre is made into 
 rope called cayar ; admirable on rocky coasts, and the best after 
 chain. The bark of the tree forms a covering for the native huts. 
 The road crosses a great number of small streams. The scenery 
 is very picturesque, though gentle, and not at all bold near the 
 coast. There are very few European houses along the road. 
 The natives are far before those of India in the refinements and 
 comforts of life. The island is one of the headquarters of 
 Bhuddism. I saw numerous priests (who, as I've said before,, 
 form a kind of monastic order), in their long yellow togas. 
 
 This is a pretty place, and the seat of government, besides being 
 quite a seat of business ; more so than Point de Galle, which is 
 principally so from being convenient for the steamers to meet. 
 One of my fellow passengers of the steamer came on with me, a 
 
 Dr. J. , " a great gun" in his line at Calcutta. To-morrow 
 
 he will start for Candy. 
 
 May IS. — This morning went sight-seeing about the place, and 
 sketching ; and then to my banker's, who introduced me to the 
 reading-room, — it was quite a luxury. He also invited me to. 
 
 16 
 
242 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE, 
 
 dine with him this evening. He lives a short distance out of the 
 city, and as I stepped from the carriage on to the piazza, he 
 jumped out of the windo-w and catching me by the arm said 
 " Get in the window, I've just knocked over a cobra there" (point- 
 ing to the parlor entrance), and sure enough, and there stood a 
 great black cobra capella, with hood spread, balancing himself 
 more than three feet in the air. So I got in the window, when 
 his servant with a stick, knocked him over. They then put him 
 in a box, and, bachelor-like, left him in one corner of the dining- 
 room, while they sent to a neighbor's for a mongoose — an animal 
 like an enormous weasel, growing from a foot and a half to three 
 feet long (including the tail, which is half the length of the 
 body). These animals are deadly enemies of the cobra, and 
 attack them most spitefully, whenever they see them. The cobra 
 bite has no effect on them, for the moment they are struck by the 
 cobra's fang, they run off for an instant, and finding something 
 that nullifies the poison, renew the attack until they have 
 killed it. 
 
 This mongoose, for want of employment, had gone off; but 
 all dinner time the reptile was pounding about in the box, and 
 I, in my nervous horror of snakes, eat my dinner with one eye 
 constantly fixed on the floor. This cobra was the second they 
 had discovered in the parlor within ten days, and it was only 
 seen by accident. A pet cat happening to be wandering about 
 the room started to go under the sofa, darted back — and they 
 suspecting a snake, looked, and discovered this cobra — a lucky 
 escape for me, for I should j^robably have been asked to take a 
 seat on it. There was an officer staying with my banker, who had 
 recently arrived from Canada. He said he had lived within forty 
 miles of Niagara Falls for two or three years, but had never 
 taken the trouble to see them. Owing to the coach arrangements, 
 I shall be prevented from going to Candy. 
 
 May 20. — Returned to-day from Columbo. Like my journey 
 here, the ride was delightful, except from the excessive heat. 
 

A NATIVE DIGNITARY. 243 
 
 May list — I've been walking round tlie harbor. To-day I 
 got two fellows to let me sketch them. The natives here wear 
 long hair, and long combs (such as young girls of eight and ten 
 years old wear with us, extending all across the front of the 
 head, to keep their hair out of their eyes). The back part is 
 done up in a knot. This afternoon took a drive to the spice 
 gardens. I saw cinnamon, nutmegs, vanilla beans, and lemon 
 grass growing, and came back with a carriage load of specimens. 
 A number of beggars followed me a long distance, quite in Euro- 
 pean style. One threw a great number of back-summersets for 
 our benefit. 
 
 May 22d. — To the old Dutch church — the only one here — 
 the Episcopalians and Scotch Presbyterians keep it pretty busy. 
 They hold four services a day in it, each taking their turn. 
 Among the audience was one native dignitary, perfectly splendid. 
 He wore a tremendously long single-breasted, blue, frockcoat, 
 with gilt buttons, and gold studs ; a shirt and collar, with white 
 waistcoat ; and for trousers — ^half a dozen yards of most gaudy 
 chintz wrapped around him ! The steamer being in, I shall be 
 off early to-morrow morning. There are two steamers here 
 from England, and the cadets are strutting the streets as if they 
 were all governor-generals. The town has a wall surrounding 
 it, and a very good harbor. 
 
 May 22cZ, On board Ship, G-alle Harbor. — I find a large 
 number of passengers going to "the Straits" (of Malacca) and 
 China. The native people look quite different from those of 
 India. The Bhuddist priests shave the entire .head. They are 
 said to be very learned in their theology, and frequent reference 
 is made to them by the priests from other parts of Asia. 
 
 Yesterday afternoon, while walking on the ramparts, I saw a 
 cobra four feet long, and killed him with my cane. 
 
 May 26th. — The passengers are a pleasant set. To-day we 
 
244 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 passed the celebrated Eugiisli clipper " Challenger," that beat the 
 American clippers. This year our clippers have been beaten in 
 these seas : but in this way ; our shipping increases so fast, we 
 give first-class ships to young captains, many of them not even 
 having been in these seas before, which are quite celebrated for 
 their currents, while the English clippers are all commanded by 
 experienced captains. Mr. K , the head of one of the lead- 
 ing American houses in Batavia, has given me a glowing descrip- 
 tion of Java, which he thinks the Paradise of the world, with its 
 magnificent scenery, great variety of nature's wonders, soils 
 adapted to almost everything, the climate delightful throughout 
 the year, and the Dutch such superior colonists as to be able to 
 reap all the advantages of it. The government has beautiful 
 roads, and affords great facilities for travelling and commerce, 
 besides the capital schools, thus remedying the difiiculty most 
 eastern places labor under. 
 
 Extending our talk to Japan, he expressed his regret at the 
 expedition, and said the grievances were very much overstated ; 
 that as he was the Consul for the Dutch settlements in the East, 
 all the cases came under his notice ; and that the majority of 
 people who were wrecked or landed in Japan, were deserters from 
 ships, and were almost invariably well treated. The Japanese, 
 in their jealousy of strangers, prevented these people from having 
 any intercourse with the inhabitants, and always brought them 
 to the Dutch colony of Nan-ga-sakki, when the annual Dutch 
 ship brought them to Batavia. As the ship only made one 
 voyage a year, they were not always immediately conveyed to 
 the coast, but confined in temples, and well fed during the inter- 
 val. But the sailors often committed outrages, and on one or 
 two occasions set fire to the temples. As to the cages they 
 speak of, they were nothing more than bamboo or cane carts — 
 the only conveyance on the island. When they are put on 
 board the Dutch ships, they are supplied with three bags of rice, 
 and three bags of some other thing, besides iliree suits of clothes, 
 and then consigned to the governor of Java, The captain must take 
 
ARRIVAT; AT PENANG. 245 
 
 back, on his return, a report from the governor of Java of their 
 safe arrival, health, condition, etc. So particular are the Japanese 
 in bringing them to this Dutch port of Nan-ga-sakki from every 
 part of the Japanese Islands, that on one occasion a man died 
 on the journej, and the officer in charge had his body packed in 
 salt, and brought on. The Japanese are very suspicious when 
 an American lands ; for, with all their isolation, they keep well 
 informed of what is passing, and have been apprehensive for a 
 long time, of an American expedition ! They never allow their 
 people to leave the island, and when anj^ of them are picked 
 up at sea, or otherwise brought back, they are immediately 
 beheaded. 
 
 The commerce of the Dutch is very small with the Island, and 
 only kept up by them for policj'. It consists merely of a little 
 glassware, and medicine to Japan, and trifles in return. The 
 Japanese Government only allow one ship a year; about six 
 residents at their factory here, and will not even let these men 
 bring their wives with them. But if they wish a wife they 
 supply them with one, who must be left here when the men 
 leave this country to go elsewhere. 
 
 May 28, Peistaxg. — Pleasant voyage thus far, except the ther- 
 mometer usually rose to 86 and 88 in the shade, with no wind. 
 To-day passed numerous stagings of poles (used by the Chinese 
 for fishing), three miles from land, in the open sea. This island 
 is small, and hilly, with pleasant views. On the main land, are 
 
 many sugar plantations. I went ashore with Mr. E , to the 
 
 house of Messrs. R & Co. The head of the firm is the 
 
 American Consul. Met several gentlemen (merchants and 
 English officers) there. They were just sitting down to dinner, 
 and we joined them. When we left this evening, they gave us 
 a basket of mangustines — a delicious fruit, growing in the 
 " straits," but for which this place is celebrated. They are round, 
 and from an inch and a half to two inches in diameter, covered 
 with a thick purple coat, somewhat like a black walnut, enclosing 
 
246 FROM WAIA. STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 the eatable part, whicli is of a liglit milkj color, with five seg- 
 ments, like an orange, and contains a small seed like the double 
 meat of a peach stone. The gamboge is obtained from the man- 
 gustine tree and fruit. This evening sailed at eleven, with a dark 
 and threatening sky. 
 
 J/ay 81, Singapore. — Anchored yesterday. Most of our pas- 
 sengers leave here for Australia, Java, &;c. There is a great 
 quantity of shipping, and boats in the harbor — from the latest 
 and swiftest clippers from China and Australia, down to the 
 dullest and dumpiest of old ships or brigs, with every variety of 
 smaller rig, raking opium clipper — schooners, and brigs, and 
 hundreds of Chinese junks (many of them pirates — when chance 
 offers), and native boats of beautiful model — by some, supposed 
 to have given the idea to Steers, who built the " Yacht America." 
 
 This place is principally settled by the "scum" of China, of 
 whom there are about 60,000. The English have a small force 
 here, together with a governor. Its importance was early dis- 
 covered, and I think it was first taken possession of by Sir Stam- 
 ford Eaffies. The town is small, but flourishing from its foreign 
 business. I drove out to-day with an acquaintance, to see the 
 garden of a wealthy native. He had pineapples growing, the 
 flower being of a most beautiful and dazzling pink color. I also 
 saw the lotus in bloom, — a beautiful pinkish white, about oime 
 inches in diameter ; — also some nutmegs, and other curious plants, 
 with strange birds. We shall start this afternoon for Hong- 
 Kong — a voyage of ten days. 
 
 June 6, Hong-Kong. — We arrived here this morning. Got a 
 hotel, and went to see our Consul, Mr. A , an old acquaint- 
 ance from New York. As this is the great port for the whale 
 and California ships, he has plenty of consular business between 
 belligerent captains and crews. " Jack tar" has much his own 
 way at present. In some ships, the sailors will not let the cap- 
 tains go forward of the mainmast. At other times they have 
 
HONG-KONG AND CANTON. '247 
 
 made the captains go into ports they did not sail for, and 
 at one of the ports in Australia they made the captains show a 
 
 certificate from his last crew of his good conduct ! Mr. A • 
 
 has introduced me to the club, so I shall be more comfortable 
 here. As they have a good librarj^, I shall have a nice time 
 getting up information about my prospective journeys. 
 
 June 9th. — Hong-Kong is prettily situated, but not a particu- 
 larly healthy or comfortable place to live in, being at the base 
 of a high hill, and terribly warm at present ; thermometer every 
 day 90° in the shade ! Collected more flower and fruit seeds. 
 
 Dined at Mr. A 's, Near their house stands a j^agoda or 
 
 joss temple, as the Chinese call them. The decorations and 
 divinities were neither numerous nor elegant. The Chinese 
 burn candles and paper with writing (prayers, etc.), to pro- 
 pitiate " Joss." The pirates alioays do the same when they 
 start on any of their expeditions, besides burning fireworks and 
 ringing gongs (to attract his attention, probably, and give them 
 good luck !) 
 
 June 11th. — Took a walk yesterdaj^ to the "Happy Valley." 
 Why it is so called I cannot imagine. It is neither beautiful, 
 nor has it a single house. To-day a small deluge set the house 
 afloat, with shower-baths "gratis" in ascending or descending 
 the stairs. 
 
 June 12th. — This evening gave us a crab supper with Mr. 
 D 's famil}^, who are Americans. 
 
 June ISih. — Canton, — Came on here to-dav, via Macao; a 
 delightful sail all day, especially in coming up the Canton river. 
 Macao is nominally a Portuguese province, and has a valuable 
 commerce. Hong-Kong has destroyed its influence, without 
 attaining its importance. Its harbor — such as it is — is almost 
 an open roadstead, only protected by distant islands from the 
 full force of the sea. The town is surrounded by a lovr Avail, 
 
248 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 and lias several indifferent forts. There are, of course, numerous 
 Catholic churches, from the number of Portuguese. 
 
 The streets are narrow and clean. There is hardly a horse in 
 the place. I walked through the bazaars, which are closely 
 crowded together — barely eight feet from one side of the way 
 to the other — and half that space occupied with goods. There 
 is apparently little to make it a desirable residence, except the 
 fresh sea air. But it is still preferable to Hong-Kong. Many 
 passengers joined the steamer for Canton : among them Mr. 
 
 H ■ — , who has returned to retrieve his fortune. We passed 
 
 great numbers of junks after leaving Macao ; at one time I 
 counted 121 without changing my position, and nearly all were 
 from ten to eighty tons. 
 
 This afternoon we had a number of violent showers. The 
 scener}', in most parts of the river, is fine. Hills, trees, and 
 towers varying the landscape. I saw the Bogue forts, taken by 
 the English during the war of '42. They are of very little use, 
 as they all are commanded by the hills in their rear. The river 
 is very wide at its mouth, and continues so until approaching 
 Whampoa, the head of ship navigation. After that, it varies 
 from half to a third of a mile. 
 
 WhamjDoa is a village of importance onlj- from the shipping 
 stopping here, and all repairs to vessels done, hauling them 
 up, etc. 
 
 Hong-Kong, Macao and Canton form a triangle : the distance 
 115 miles; 82 from Macao, and 90 direct from Hon2:-Konfr. 
 From Macao there are 32 miles of wide bay, with small 
 islands; then 40 miles of river to Whampoa, and 10 more to 
 Canton. From Whampoa the river is a succession of islands 
 so large, and the water dividing them so wide — being from a 
 quarter to half a mile — that they give the appearance of separate 
 rivers. Manj^ of the junks we saw are of medium size, very 
 •sharp, with an immense number of oars, looking like centipedes. 
 These are termed revenue boats, but — opium smugglers^ accord- 
 ing to circumstances. 
 
SINGULAR CUSTOM. 249 
 
 The opium business being contrary to law, as you are probably 
 aware : the merchants are all engaged in it, and keep a fleet of 
 opium ships, well manned and armed, lying at the mouth of 
 the Canton river. These sell it to the opium smugglers, who 
 get the produce into the country. We arrived at nine, when I 
 made my way to Akow's Hotel, and I am now stowed away in 
 a "sky parlor" eight feet square. 
 
 June 14:th. — I called this morning on Mr. F , the head of 
 
 the old firm of Eussell & Co. Mr. F is from New York. 
 
 You are acquainted with his family. He introduced me to his 
 
 partner, Mr. S , brother of the one in the firm of Messrs. 
 
 B & Co. They are my bankers here. Mr. F 
 
 invited me to dine with him to-day, and to move my things to 
 his house to-morrow, regretting he was not able to give me a 
 room at once, for they were full. 
 
 In Canton there is a singular custom among the merchants — 
 probably part of the old factory system in the East. All the 
 partners of the firm and the clerks live in the building containing 
 the counting-house, and every person doing business with the 
 firm is expected to stay there also. So that with the partners, 
 clerks, and guests, in this large house, they lay a large table every 
 day — about eighteen to twenty-four. Then called to see one of 
 
 the members of the firm of W & Co. William L 
 
 was a member of this firm at the time of his death. They also 
 invited me to dine with them to-day, and stay at their house. 
 
 On to Dr. P 's, saw him, and was introduced to Mrs. P , 
 
 who looks much like her relative Mr. Webster. I had a pleasant 
 visit here. At dinner I was introduced to a room full of people, 
 with nearly all of whom I had mutual acquaintances — among 
 them was a rough-looking originality, who had been through the 
 various grades and states of farmer in Massachusetts, merchant 
 and auctioneer in New York city, planter in Louisiana, specu- 
 lator in California, and, I believe, traveller at present. He says 
 he is an intimate acquaintance of my friend ]\fr. D , with 
 
250 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 •whom I liave been travelling. He rejoices in the name of 
 Colonel Poore, though I believe he is verj wealthy : a huge, 
 rough and prosj old fellow, though very amusing. 
 
 After dinner, Mr. S , Col. P , and I went on the river 
 
 in one of the Hong boats for a row and fresh air. Anchoring 
 we had a fine view of the numerous yachts, and various river 
 and town boats of the natives, besides enjoying an invigorating 
 
 breeze after the close heat of the city. On our return Mr. S 
 
 and I went to Mr. H 's, and climbing up to the top of his 
 
 house, found him and several other persons enjoying their cigars 
 and the evening breeze, on a species of aerial platform, from 
 which they have a fine view ; after a pleasant visit, we all went to 
 the club-room, where I was introduced by Mr. S . 
 
 June 15th. — Breakfasted at Mr. F 's, and moved my lug- 
 gage, then sauntered through the various streets in the neigh- 
 borhood of the Hongs. The occupants deal principally with 
 Europeans, whose limits of safety and privileged walks don't 
 extend much beyond this. 
 
 The Hongs form an immense range of buildings, some three or 
 four hundred feet deep, by a thousand long, with a fine large 
 garden, and walks. Between them and the river there is a space 
 of three or four hundred feet. At each end of the factory, is a 
 high wall with a gate, extending to the river. The factories are 
 singularly built. The lower story is high, like an English base- 
 ment. Here are all the counting-rooms. The buildings forming 
 the Hongs are each about thirty feet in width, the rooms 
 being of the ordinary size of parlors, and commencing between 
 the second and third rooms from the front of the houses, there is 
 a large "well," or open place, of sixteen feet square; open from 
 above to light these two rooms, and so on at intervals of every 
 second room to the rear of the building. In the garden of 
 the Hongs stands a pretty Episcopalian church. The Hongs 
 arc occupied by great numbers of merchants — in fact by all 
 the merchants doing business at Canton, and by the consuls. 
 
JUNKS AND SANPANS AT CANTON. 251 
 
 The only exception is in the case of mercliants having theii 
 families. They take houses just outside of the Hong premises. 
 
 This afternoon, with Messrs. F , S , and W to How- 
 
 qua's garden — a row of about two miles up the river, and a small 
 creek. It was a curious affair — quantities of flowers and plants ; 
 numerous tanks with fish, and the lotus in full bloom — its pink 
 flowers looking beautiful. The garden is a labyrinth with its 
 numerous summer-houses, tanks, walks, and trees. The bushes 
 are trimmed in the quaint old style of birds and beasts. Then 
 on our way down we stopped at a smaller garden. The river 
 is filled with boats of all sorts — from little boxes of boats scarce 
 sufficient to support a single paddler, to ponderous junks, half 
 stationary, half locomotive — a sort of floating hotel for travellers 
 and parties of pleasure, who hire them for a few days of jollifica- 
 tion, when for retirement they are rowed, pushed, or towed a short 
 distance up or down the river, and anchored, while the inmates 
 enjoy themselves with feasting, music, and fresh air; at other 
 times they lay at anchor in very compact rows in the stream, 
 forming a perfect succession of streets. Every boat in the river 
 is registered, and I am informed there are 87,000! within the 
 lamp district (about four miles) on the police books — as plying 
 on the river. "With an ordinary average their population is 
 computed to be 500,000, while that of the city is 1,000,000, as 
 near as can be estimated. 
 
 The fronts of these lodging boats are frequently most elabo- 
 rately carved. In the midst of this motley collection of junks 
 and "sanpans" (the miniature canoes) is a small fleet of very 
 pretty yachts, mostly built by Mr. Forbes (the head of the lead- 
 ing American house here, and a great amateur in those matters) 
 for his own use, and then sold again to some other of the mer- 
 chants here as he tired of them, or fancied some improvement, 
 until now he has the most beautiful one here. It is built after 
 the lines of the far-famed "yacht America." Besides the facili- 
 ties for sailing amateurs, there is every variety, shape, and form 
 of row-boat in English, American, or Indian style. 
 
252 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 June Viih. — Yesterday I passed with the occupations of a 
 travelhng lounger; sketching, reading, visiting, and receiving 
 
 visitors. Dined bj invitation, with Mr. H . To-day I 
 
 have been sight-seeing in the shops. They contain Httle more 
 than can be found in our own Chinese shops — except a crowd of 
 rascally, long-tailed, oddly dressed Chinamen. 
 
 This afternoon our usual anchor in the river. Almost every 
 afternoon the members of the different Hongs go out in their 
 Hong boats, and, anchoring in the river, enjoy the fresh air, while 
 they sit and smoke, read, see the yachts, or take a siesta. 
 
 June 18ih. — Mr. W invited me this afternoon to take a 
 
 sail to Whampoa, to see the " Challenge," the crack American 
 clipper. This morning, while we were in the parlor, a sailor 
 
 called to see Mr. W , and complained that the captain did 
 
 not treat him like a gentleman — that he told him to "go to 
 
 h 1." We had a delightful run down in Mr. F.'s yacht. 
 
 "We inspected and admired the ship, which is a " perfect beaut}^," 
 and of great size for a clipper — 2000 tons. She arrived a short 
 time since from London. Several English ofl&cers came out in 
 her, and had an opportunity of seeing her fine performances and 
 speed. On one occasion she made in three days 1045 miles, and 
 one day 885 (the " While Squall's" great feat was 372.) To 
 give you some idea of her enormous spread of canvass, her 
 main-yard is 93 feet long, and the foot of that sail 152 feet. 
 After a nice Yankee supper we started on our way home. 
 
 Jime 20th. — Yesterday, being Sunday, went to church. In the 
 evening anchored on the river to recruit after the heat of the 
 day. I extended my walk to-day rather nearer the walls of the 
 city, but with little that is novel to interest — though perhaps 
 from long travel I am somewhat blase. Water-carriers and 
 porters jostle you about without ceremon}^ The shoj) signs, 
 instead of being placed laterally as with us, are vertical, as the 
 Chinese read from top to bottom, instead of from side to side 
 
Sketched by the Anthor. 
 
 VIEW OF GL-SSATPA FALLS, (915 feet), SOUTIIEnN, INDIA. 
 
 See page 2('l. 
 
CHINESE COIN. 253 
 
 as wc do. The effect is very curious. Tliis is, however, merely 
 the suburb of the city. It is not possible to enter the city pub- 
 licly, though Dr. Parker and Mr. Eoberts a missionary, were 
 once carried in, in close sedan chairs. Occasionally parties are 
 made up to walk around the city, but rarely, as you are always 
 liable to insult, to be plundered or murdered; your servants 
 always being the first to run. When the English captured and 
 allowed the city to be ransomed, they did not enter it, but occupied 
 an eminence near by, and the Chinese now have a monument in 
 the city in honor of its never having been polluted by foreign 
 foot. If the English had only allowed a regiment to occupy it 
 for a month it would have cooled off" their insolence very much. 
 The people of this district have for many years been notoriously 
 insolent to foreigners. Even as far back as Lord Amherst's visit 
 to Pekin in 1805, they noticed a marked change in the people on 
 reaching this province. 
 
 There has been quite an excitement here for some days about 
 
 a flagstaff erected at the suggestion of Mr. F (the French 
 
 Vice-consul), in front of Messrs. Russell & Co.'s house. Four or 
 five valorous young Johnnie Bulls got up an unnecessary ex- 
 citement about it, and cut the halliards and shrouds ; whereupon 
 the captain of the French steamer sent up a guard, and one 
 evening caught two Johnnie Bulls lurking about the place. He 
 sent them down to the steamer, where they managed to cool off 
 after some hours' confinement. 
 
 The Chinese coin is diminished almost infinitesimally — I think 
 to the 1500th part of a dollar. Spanish dollars are the coin of 
 the bankers, and the Mexican is that of the people. The latter, 
 after an examination by the servants, or money-changers of the 
 Hong, are stamped; and thus, after a while, it gets beaten to 
 pieces. Every Hong employs one of the examiners of coin, 
 called a shreif, who docs nothing but count and examine coin all 
 day. 
 
 The revolution is exciting a great sensation in China, and it is 
 supposed the rebels will attack the city before many months. 
 
254 FROJiI WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 These difficulties are awful for poor travellers — making exchange 
 thirtj-three per cent, on London, besides the eight or ten per 
 
 cent, of commissions, &c. This afternoon, Mr. F took me 
 
 to see the famous Honan Temple (Bhuddist). The range of 
 buildings is immense, and among them is one for burning the 
 bodies of dead priests. The service is much like that of the 
 Greek church, except the grotesque figures of the idols. Like 
 those of Ceylon, the priests shave their heads, and wear yellow 
 togas. We then went through a curious canal in this suburb, 
 of which the walls of the houses made the sides. In passing 
 under the bridges we had to keep a sharp look-out for stones, 
 and slops from above, thrown by mischievous persons. 
 
 Mr. F informs me that Commodore Perry had great 
 
 numbers of applications for passage to Japan in his fleet by 
 English and Americans — some coming even from England ; that 
 Bayard Taylor was the only one allowed to go, and he shipped 
 as master's mate. 
 
 To-day I had my pocket picked for the first time in my life, 
 and then of — an old pair of gloves — they will be very useful to 
 a Chinaman "I guess." 
 
 June 21sL — I shall remain here till I return to Hong-Kong, 
 and sail for India. Owing to some disarrangement of the 
 steamers, I can't get to Shanghae, and as it's not very interesting, 
 except commercially, and I cannot reach Ningpo and Nankin, 
 I shall not try a sailing vessel. The silks and green tea for the 
 United States principally go from Shanghae. 
 
 The Bhuddist priests are trembling at the success of the new 
 Emperor, or would-be Emperor, Typing- Wang, who at one time 
 was a disciple of a Mr. Roberts — missionary — hence his jumble 
 of creeds, half Christian half heathen, that in his proclamations 
 so astonished the religious world, and gave them hope that a 
 new and better era was to mark the Chinese Emj^ire of the 
 19th century. 
 
EXECUTIONS AT CANTON. 255 
 
 June 2olh. — I dined yesterday with Mr. M , of Wetmore 
 
 & Co.'s house. To-day dined with Dr. P , and had a sail 
 
 on the river in one of the yachts. Fell in with a regular North 
 river sloop, which Mr. F. has built as an e.xperiment for freight- 
 ing, and as pirates are so numerous, she carries six carronades. 
 
 June 2Qlh. — Sunday — to church. This evening an acquaint- 
 ance in speaking of the great number of executions in the 
 neighborhood of Canton, said that a year or two since, the Gov- 
 ernor Suu, was invited on board of the United States sloop-of- 
 war Plymouth. The captain gave him a salute, and showed 
 him the thirty-two pounder guns, explaining the terrible destruc- 
 tion they made when fired. The Governor, so far from express- 
 ing any surprise, simply remarked that he had signed the death- 
 warrants of 6,000 persons during the year! I am told the 
 average is 4,000 ! Mr. H described the execution of sixty- 
 three he was once oblipred to witness. 
 
 O" 
 
 June 27 ill. — This morning went with Dr. Parker to his Eye 
 Infirmary and Hospital. There are often several hundred per- 
 sons there to consult him and be operated on — some coming even 
 from the interior of China. He commences by delivering a short 
 lecture to the people on the blessings of Christianity, and then 
 examines the cases. He says the people live so entirely on vegeta- 
 ble diet, and have so little inflammation in their systems, that 
 after an operation they hardly suppurate enough for the wound to 
 heal. He performed a few operations, none of much interest. 
 We made an excursion to Potinqua's (another wealthy Chinese 
 merchant) garden this afternoon, and returned through a curious 
 little canal, bounded by houses, their foundation walls forming 
 its sides. In the canal we passed one of those huge houses of 
 boats — then through several streets of them, all brilliantly 
 lighted, as if for a gala day ; but they were only floating restau- 
 rants, where the Chinese merchants go "to enjoy a good dinner, 
 and the cool air to stimulate their appetites — and perhaps get 
 
256 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 their money's-wortli. The boats were curiously carved and 
 gilded, brilliantly illuminated by chandeliers, and in several of 
 them we saw long suites of rooms and lights. 
 
 June 2dth. — Yesterday I saw two French Jesuits dressed like 
 the Chinese, with long tails, and had I not known they were 
 French, should have taken them for Chinese. Mr. F, knew 
 Hue, the Jesuit missionary, who wrote his interesting book of 
 travels in China. There are a number of Mormons here, who 
 dress in fez, turban, and long white gowns, like the natives of 
 India. This is a happy day. The ice ship has at last arrived, 
 and there are great rejoicings. This morning again with Dr. 
 Parker to his Hospital and Eye Infirmary. After he had per- 
 formed a few operations I left. The heat was over 90°, and not 
 a breath of air, and I was surrounded by one or two hundred not 
 "particularly nice" Chinese. I had to leave to avoid being 
 stifled, and untimely terminating my tour. This afternoon a 
 xmall Eussian war steamer came to anchor opposite the Hong, 
 and shortly after the admiral and three of his officers called on 
 
 Mr. F . They took tea with us, and the admiral is to stay 
 
 with us. 
 
 June ZOth. — The admiral and officers all breakfasted here. He 
 is an aide-de-camp to the emperor. He says that thirty years ago 
 he was at San Francisco, in California. This afternoon went to 
 another of Potinqua's gardens ; curiously arranged, almost entirely 
 of tanks filled with the lotus in full bloom. The only soil was 
 in the paths and divisions between the tanks. I saw no dwarf 
 trees of any consequence, though the Chinese are said to be 
 
 celebrated for their success in the art of dwarfing. Mr. F 
 
 said he had eaten many a Chinese dinner here. At one of these 
 dinners they had to stop at the fiftieth course, which was stewed 
 duck's feet ! He said first they sat down to a beautiful European 
 dinner, and after they had gone all through its various courses, 
 a very recherche Chinese dinner followed — bird's-nest soup, etc., 
 
THE RUSSIANS IN CHINA. 257 
 
 When tliey stopped for want of ability and capacity, the host 
 said that was not half the dinner. Bird's-nest soup is made 
 from the gelatine matter that "cements the fibres of the nest of a 
 peculiar bird that lives on almost inaccessible and deserted cliffs. 
 It is obtained by the natives with great difficulty and risk ; 
 hence, its value. The birds collect a substance they find on the 
 tops of the waves, and use it for the purpose of securing the 
 materials of their nests together. Their nests, when collected by 
 the natives, are washed with great care, and the gelatine pre- 
 served. Mr. F told me it was perfectly tasteless. 
 
 Potinqua is at present the collector of the salt duties. The 
 Emperor usually appoints the collector at his pleasure, compels 
 him to take the ofiice, and pay an enormous annual sum, which 
 generally ruins him in the end. Admiral Poltrettein has tried 
 to obtain an interview with the governor of Canton, but he has 
 
 not succeeded. This afternoon the admiral and Mr. S 
 
 went to the Honan Temple, and Mr. F^ and I cooled 
 
 ourselves with a game of billiards — the thermometer at five 
 o'clock standing at 91° ! ! 
 
 Yesterday the admiral sent his despatches to the governor of 
 Canton, and received his reply just before he sat down to break- 
 fast. He got the translation shortly, dictated his answer, and 
 before he had finished, the despatch in reply to the governor was 
 ready. I give this incident as illustrating the knowledge pos- 
 sessed by their interpreters of the Chinese language. With the 
 English, French, or our people, it is the work of a day to make 
 up a proper Chinese translation of a despatch. 
 
 The Eussians for two centuries, have had an embassy at Pekin, 
 and they are allowed a certain number of priests, who must be 
 changed every ten years, and in that way multitudes become 
 familiar with the language. They also had two hundred Tartar 
 soldiers, as a guard to the embassy at first, and the admiral 
 thought, by their remaining in the country, and intermarrying 
 with the Chinese, and the services of the Greek Church being 
 kept up by the succession of Greek priests at the embassy for 
 
 17 
 
258 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE, 
 
 the benefit of these people and their descendants, the ceremonies 
 have gradually crept into the Bhnddist services ; and that is 
 the reason of the great resemblance between the ceremonies in 
 the Bhuddist temples and his own (the Greek) church, a circum- 
 stance that strvick me when I saw them, as well as him this 
 afternoon, when he was at the temple. 
 
 July 2d. — This morning the Eussians started on their return 
 to Hong-Kong, where the frigate — a fifty-two-gun ship lies. To 
 day a young Baron Kreudner dined with us. He is on board 
 the frigate in some capacity — I don't know what. His uncle 
 was a former Minister from Kussia to the United States. He 
 has on his card, aide-de-camp to the Grand Dulce Constantine (which 
 does not mean very much, as I believe these imperial dignitaries 
 have about a hundred aides apiece.) This said Grand Duke occu- 
 pies the anomalous position of admiral in the navy, and gene- 
 ral in the army. The Baron, breathing the atmosphere of this 
 ambitious duke, has the same large views of annexation, and 
 very likely somewhat colored by the sentiment they express. 
 
 July 4ith. — The Baron started for Canton to day. Mr. H , 
 
 and one or two other acquaintances dined with us ; we had a 
 
 good laugh at H , who dined with us yesterday: the Baron 
 
 inquired who he was, remarking he looked like a very distinguished 
 man. This evening the Americans had quite a display of fire- 
 works in the garden. The John Bulls, freshly from London, 
 were down in numbers, expressing great fears lest the city, and 
 even the people themselves, should be set on fire by the works, 
 and wondering what the Americans were "making such a bloody 
 row about. Is it for Bunker Hill, or what?" Some of the 
 English here are very good fellows, but most of them are pre- 
 cious small, and there is not much love lost between them and 
 the Americans. 
 
 Col. M , our Minister, said (when he was here a few 
 
 months ago) in graphic western style, "I'll be d — d if the Ame- 
 ricans wouldn't rather fight the English than eat." Yesterday, 
 
"young AMERICA." 259 
 
 heard of the further success of the rebels, and their march this 
 way with a Large force. At present the weather is so hot, 
 neither party can do very much. The Chinese Imperial Admi- 
 ral is about buying a small steamer of some of the merchants 
 here. It has created considerable discussion whether it will pre- 
 judice the cause of the rebels with whom they sympathize. Mr. 
 
 F told the Chinamen in his employ to day, this was "a 
 
 No. 1 first day with Americans, that once, great while go, we 
 were all the same to the English, just like Typing-wang men to 
 Emperor." They enjoyed the joke, entering into all the ani- 
 mosities of their masters. We have noticed frequently of late, 
 the Chinese carrying matchlocks and bows, an unusual sight — it 
 looks like rebellion. 
 
 July 6th. — I've been developing my artistic genius in learning 
 
 to paint, all the morning. This afternoon, S and I had a 
 
 sail in the Atlanta, Mr. F 's yacht, while he alternated 
 
 between dozing, reading reviews, and admiring his yacht from 
 the cabin of his Hong boat, as she lay at anchor. 
 
 By the way, I forgot to apprise you I had turned juvenile 
 again in my habits — a positive fact. I've got to wearing jackets, 
 or "roundabouts." The people of India, and this country, by 
 way of greater comfort in the warm weather, have adopted the 
 fashion of jacket, vest, and trowsers of white, for full dress at a 
 dinner or evening party during the warm weather. Sensible^ 
 
 isn't it ? There is a young O from New York here, who,. 
 
 for his quintessence of quadrupled assurance, if you can realize 
 such a quantum of "brass," and this not half describing him, is 
 known by the title of" " Young America." The English don't 
 know what to make of his astonishing assurant way of talking' 
 down every person, no matter what age, by always taking the 
 opposite side of everything said, and bearing them down by the 
 clear weight of assurance and tongue — but neither elegant po- 
 lished wit, nor cleverness. He is constantly invited out by 
 English to dinner, as a curiosity, to see him "go it." 
 
260 FROM "WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 July 7 ill, "Whampoa. — At four this afternoon, Mr. F , and 
 
 I started in his yacht, the Atlanta, for Macao, stopping at this 
 place for the night. I've been so long at Canton, I quite regi'et 
 to leave it, notwithstanding our narrow limits, and the pleasant 
 greetings one meets from all the people, man, woman, and child, 
 in passing the native boats in the river, of Fanqui Low (Foreign 
 Devil) ; besides drawing their hands across their throats as indi- 
 cative of cutting your throat, and drawing their hands down their 
 face, and jerking them as if throwing their impurities at you. I 
 have often been amused by the captain of the English brig-of-war 
 stationed off the Hongs as a guard for them. He almost boils 
 with rage as he speaks of the insults of the people to him, as he 
 goes to and from his vessel. This is the result of the prestige 
 of this city, which was very near being destroyed a few years 
 since. There was some payment to be made, part of the Chinese 
 and English treaty ; the Chinese did not pay, when a regiment 
 was sent up from Hong-kong, and they had until midday to pay. 
 They waited until the very last minute before they paid. An 
 acquaintance told me he asked a soldier who was standing with 
 his musket in his hand, if they were about to attack the city, 
 " By jabers, and I wish they would," said the fellow, shaking his 
 musket, his eyes sparkling with the anticipated sport. 
 
 At the time of the settlement of the treaty in the war of 1842 
 with China, Howqua, one of the twelve Hong merchants, (as 
 those were termed, who were allowed to trade with foreigners), 
 was to pay the $1,500,000 to the English agent at Macao, and it 
 was agreed it should be done by three notes, or bills, for 
 $500,000 each, drawn by Eussell & Co., at that time, and now, 
 the American house in China. For the joke, it was agreed by the 
 three partners at Canton, that each would sign one note for the 
 firm, to say they had signed a note for that amount, and Messrs. 
 Green, King, and Hunter, w^ere the three. Passed on our way, 
 as we came to anchor, the Flying Childers, six days from Shang- 
 hae, beating all the ships that started six and eight days before 
 her. She brings news of the " Touti's " return to Shanghae, and 
 
AMERICAN ENTERPRISE. 261 
 
 that lie says his foreign soldiers object to Jight ivithout jpay ! And 
 of General Marshall's proclamation, for all Americans to refrain 
 from assisting:; the rebels. 
 
 "We spent the evening on board an old hulk, which an enter- 
 prising Yankee skipper has converted into dwelling house, 
 store-ship, etc. By his honesty and enterprise, he has gained the 
 confidence of all here, English, Americans, and others. 
 
 To Mr. E. B. Forbes, the late head of the house of Eussell and 
 
 Company, Canton, (the cousin of my friend, Mr. F , the 
 
 present head of that house), is due the credit of suggesting that the 
 importance and value of our trade with China not only require 
 but demand new and accurate surveys of the China seas ; that 
 the dangers which constantl}^ beset the navigator at almost every 
 mile, from currents, shoals, and small islands, may be correctly 
 
 pointed out. From Mr. E. B. F 's long experience here 
 
 he was fully conversant with the great and most serious defects 
 in all the best charts then in existence ; — and that surveys were 
 then needed from the extent of commerce, as well as from the 
 prospective increased value of it, arising from the rapidly grow- 
 ing State of California. 
 
 Mr. Forbes first made the suggestion to Lieutenant Page of 
 our navy, who was then stopping with him, and it was upon the 
 representations of those gentlemen, and a paper prepared by them, 
 that the matter was first brought before the Navy Department, 
 and eventually before Congress, and the appropriation made for 
 the purpose. Lieutenant Page was to have had the command of 
 the expedition, but from some change in the Cabinet, and arrange- 
 ment of the vessels to compose it, owing to his rank of Lieute- 
 nant, the command was given to another, and he offered an infe- 
 rior position in it, which he naturally declined, as he could not 
 father his own plan. He was afterwards placed in command of 
 the La Plata expedition,* To the enterprise of the Messrs. 
 Forbes, are also due many of the improvements in the American 
 
 * He has lately published a valuable and i)\teresting account of that 
 expedition. 
 
262 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 ships that navigate these waters, as well as the American steam- 
 ers at Canton, and a fine tow-boat now on its way to Shanghae, 
 as the current in the Yang-tze-Kiang is very rapid, besides the 
 danger from shoals. 
 
 July 8th, Macao. — At four this morning, sailed with a crack- 
 ing breeze, and lots of heavy squalls on all sides, which we man- 
 aged to dodge through the skill of Mr. F and his yacht 
 
 captain, a first-rate Chinaman. We had a delightful sail, and 
 though the wind and tide were both against us, we got here in 
 fourteen hours. The yacht is a perfect "beauty" in every 
 respect, to seamen or landsmen. We landed, and took possession 
 
 of Mr. F 's new quarters, his married partner having just 
 
 taken their former house for his family. It is a perfect barrack 
 of a house for size. My room is numbered fourteen, and I 
 think his is eighteen. How much higher they run I can't 
 
 say. Making our land toilet, we went to Mr. T 's, Mr. 
 
 F 's partner. His wife and sister have just arrived from 
 
 the United States. Then to the French Ambassador's, Mr. 
 
 B . His wife is a most pleasing person, an American, 
 
 who has travelled, seen much of the world, and is very accom- 
 plished. 
 
 Juhj 9th. — This morning a friend of Mr. F breakfasted 
 
 with us, a patriarchal-looking Frenchman, with a silver beard 
 that would have rivalled Aaron's. After breakfast, we spent 
 the day at his house, playing billiards. This said French- 
 man is an amusing, curious, crusty old fellow, crabbed as possi- 
 ble, his nerves being sadly "out of joint" from the effects of a 
 gun bursting while he was shooting, a few weeks ago, and from 
 which he is still suffering. He has an armory of odd-looking 
 rusty old guns. As for dogs — why his house is a kennel ! At 
 one time ten pointers came rushing into the billiard-room, through 
 doors, windows, and every other hole. I'm sure I don't know 
 how many more dogs he has, but more than I should like, dog 
 
A ROUND OF VISITS. 263 
 
 fancier that I am, unless they were more quiet and peace- 
 able. They were howling, growling, and barking on all sides, 
 at every door, under every sofa, and 'under my feet at every 
 step. 
 
 Then home for toilet, and to Mr. S 's for dinner. This 
 
 evening called on Captain E , and at Mrs. H 's, 
 
 where we finished the evening. I had never seen her, not even 
 in New York, and was delighted with her. If a man is obliged 
 to exile himself thus far from home, to make a second fortune, 
 
 as H is (his first being lost), he is to be envied in having 
 
 such a wife who would make a paradise a desert, and I know he 
 thinks as I do of her charming qualities. 
 
 July 10th. — F and I took a dayhght swim in the harbor, 
 
 after which our patriarchal Frenchman came to breakfast. 
 
 Next a visit from Captain D . Mr. F took me to 
 
 see some nice old friends of his, English people, Mr. and Mrs. 
 
 S . Mr. S was formerly in the East India service. 
 
 "We had a long talk about India, having many mutual acquaint- 
 ances — they had lived in the Bombay presidency. We then called 
 on the Governor — a pleasant Portuguese of about forty. He 
 speaks English. After a walk, dined this evening at Madame 
 
 B 's — a pleasant party of eight or ten guests, the Governor 
 
 being among the number. In the evening several others drop- 
 ped in. Madame B sung delightfully for us. 
 
 July lli'/i.-*-The weather is horribly stormy, but we managed 
 
 to get to D 's in sedan chairs, to play billiards, and then to 
 
 Mr. S 's for dinner. Like all ladies who have no children, 
 
 she is very fond of pets, and has a lot of dogs, parrots, and 
 
 cockatoos, who make a constant bedlam. Mr. S has a 
 
 house full of curiosities, sketches on the Chinese coast, by offi- 
 cers of the navy, a piece of the "great wall," a bit of porcelain 
 from the porcelain tower at Nankin, etc. Afterwards finished 
 the evening at Captain E 's. 
 
264 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE, 
 
 July 12th. — Mr, Forbes, wishing to return to Canton, sent for 
 his yaclit captain, Assam (Anglice — Sam), a weather oracle, to 
 know what the weather would be. He looked wise, scratched 
 his head, and gave about as definite an opinion as Captain Cut- 
 tle's friend. Jack Bunsby did. Called on the U, S, Consul, 
 
 Mr, De S . Then came billiards as usual, and we dined 
 
 at S — 's, after which, I dropped in next door on Dr. and 
 
 Mrs. P from Canton, In the evening, at Mrs. H 's 
 
 — she was even more charming than before. TVe finished the 
 
 evening at Madame B 's, who, from her position and 
 
 accomplishments, is the person in Macao, though pretty little 
 
 Mrs. H is much more to my taste. To-morrow we are to 
 
 dine at Madame B 's. 
 
 Jul// ISfh. — Mr. F is about leaving for the United 
 
 States, and so he is out paying farewell visits, and I've been 
 engaged all the morning writing letters of introduction to friends 
 in Bombay, where I've advised him to stop and take a glimpse 
 of some of the curiosities. Then came our usual amusement at 
 
 D 's; visit from S , and this evening at Madame 
 
 B 's to dine, 
 
 Jiihj 1-ith. — This morning Mr. F started for Canton. 
 
 I've been painting, and this afternoon had a walk of five or six 
 miles, to the barrier line of the Portuguese possessions. I got 
 caught in the rain. The scenery is fine, varied by hills, valleys, 
 
 and bay. This evening called at Mrs. H 's. I came in, 
 
 just in time to see her pretty little children ; we were acquainted 
 in a very few minutes, and it seemed quite like home when they 
 
 fill came and kissed me for good night. Mrs. H was 
 
 going out to spend the evening, and invited me to accompany 
 
 her to Mrs. Williams, Mr. TV is an American Missionary, 
 
 and among the most highly esteemed and the best informed 
 
 here, Mrs. "W" is a niece of an ex-chancellor of our State, 
 
 and cousin of Mrs. A B , we met Dr. and Mrs. P 
 

 7; 
 
 z 
 > 
 
DEPARTURE FOR HONG-KONG. 265 
 
 here and passed a pleasant evening, though I should have 
 enjoyed much more, a quiet chat with Mrs. H , 
 
 July 15(h. — Now Mr. F is gone, I am more domestic, 
 
 and have become a devotee of the fine arts. This morning I 
 
 called at Mrs. S 's, and dined by invitation at Mrs. H 's. 
 
 Met Mrs. E . and Mr. S . After dinner, while sur- 
 rounded by the children, for whom I was making bouquets, 
 
 Madame B called. She had just received from the 
 
 Empress of France a reply to her congratulatory letter on her 
 
 marriage — Madm. B • having known her intimately as a 
 
 young lady in Spain. Then came home, and I've been study- 
 ing at books on India. 
 
 Juhj IQih. — I was off at daybreak for a sketch of Macao, 
 and though I got caught in six rain squalls — succeeded in getting 
 
 a very good view. After breakfast I called on D , where 
 
 I saw Dr. and Mrs. P , then at S 's with whom I am 
 
 to dine to-morrow. This afternoon have been out trying to 
 sight-see, but found nothing but Camoens' Cave. The steamer 
 for Hong-Kong is in, so went to Mrs. H 's to bid her good- 
 bye — she was out, and I continued on to Madm. B 's to 
 
 make my adieu also; Mrs. H happened to be there. 
 
 These are the two most agreeable countrywomen I've met 
 
 since I've been abroad. Madm. B told me to call on the 
 
 French Consul's wife at Singapore, and she would write by the 
 mail to say I was to call on her. 
 
 Juhj 17ih, HoxG-KoNG.— Up at 4 a.m., and off by the 
 steamer. We have had a miserable, wet, rough, squally day, 
 and reached here at twelve. Met an officer acquaintance at 
 church, and strolled to the barracks, where I dined. 
 
 July 18//?, Will. — I've been amusing myself for the two past 
 mornings, in painting or studying future tours in the club 
 
266 FROM WALL STEEET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 library. Spent the afternoon in long walks, and visiting friends 
 
 at the barracks. Last evening I took tea at Mrs. D 's, 
 
 and met a curious customer — a Mr. Harris, of New York, who" 
 has been cruising about in the Pacific for the last four or five 
 years — California, South America, and the Islands; and last 
 from Shanghae, where he said he went into the interior about 
 one hundred and fifty miles. He is an awful liar, besides a 
 
 beast of a drunkard, so I won't vouch for his veracity. F 
 
 ordered him out of his counting-room once for impertinence and 
 
 drunkenness, and the late consul, Mr. B , even threatened 
 
 to kick him out, unless he made a speedy exit.'^ 
 
 This afternoon I went out sailing with an officer friend, who 
 has a small American sail-boat ; as he upset her in the harbor 
 yesterday with half-a-dozen fellow-ofiicers, I stipulated for the 
 management. We had a pleasant sail, and in the evening I 
 dined at the mess. The weather is intensely hot here after the 
 sea breezes at Macao, and this is the least pleasant of the three 
 places here. All the merchants have houses at Macao, where 
 their families remain during the summer months. Then the 
 steamers run every day to and fro from Canton. There is a 
 small American steamer here (built by Mr. Forbes, who had her 
 first set up in the United States, and her pieces put together 
 here), that makes her fifty per cent, a year, while the English 
 boats lose money. 
 
 July 20(Ji. — At six this morning, went with an officer for a 
 sketch of Hong Kong. I breakfasted at the barracks on the 
 way home. This afternoon several of the officers made up a 
 party with me for Karling, a small town nearly opposite, on the 
 bay. As the last party was nearly killed by assault, and a war 
 steamer had to take up a position opposite the town, and 
 
 * This same worthy individual is now the grand flourish of a consul-general 
 at Japan, and doubtless liis accounts are rehable, when there is no one to 
 contradict ! Oh ! tempora, oh ! mores, when we are obhged to be represented 
 by some dignitaries who are selected to go abroad. 
 
ENGLISH IGNORANCE OF AMERICAN AFFAIRS. 267 
 
 threatened to batter it down if they did not give up the culprits 
 — "we each took our revolvers, " and a good bit of cane " for 
 sliilalah. Fortunately for all. parties we found the people very 
 civil. The town was curious and especially dirty. The most 
 amusing thing we saw, was the "mustering" of some recruits 
 before a military mandarin. The old fellow sat at a table out 
 of doors, the men formed a circle around him, each armed with 
 a matchlock, which looked more dangerous to them than their 
 enemies. As the men's names were called off they advanced, 
 after a few questions they tumbled down on their knees and 
 bobbed their heads on the ground, and then rising, retired — a 
 new dodge in military salutations — perhaps indicating the wil- 
 lingness to perform for their masters the excess of the Indian 
 expression of humility, z.e., "eat dirt." We then returned to 
 Hong-KoDg, which we reached at nine in the evening. 
 
 July 2\st^ 22c?. — Reading, writing letters, and studying up 
 
 tours. I received a very friendly note from Mrs. S , with 
 
 two letters of introduction for Calcutta. This morning I was 
 
 surprised by hearing S 's voice in the hall. He had come 
 
 down with F to see him off. F , S , and I, 
 
 breakfasted at W and A 's. After getting our 
 
 tickets, Ve " did up" some visiting, our three sedan chairs form- 
 ing quite a jd recession. 
 
 This evening I took my farewell dinner at the 59th mess ; as 
 they knew I was to leave by the steamer to-morrow, I was asked 
 to take wine by every officer at the table. The band played 
 "Yankee Doodle," as usual whenever I was present, if it played 
 that evening. 
 
 It is singular how ignorant the English (proper) are, or pre- 
 tend to be, of the United States. Why, we know more of every 
 State in Europe, however insignificant, than they do of us, who 
 are England's greatest rival in commerce, science, and her prin- 
 cipal manufactures ; and to whom she is so much indebted for 
 the main support of her people, by our cotton, and our consump- 
 
268 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 tion of her fabrics. At the same time the Indian English, with 
 all their isolation, have more enlarged minds and general know- 
 ledge of the world, than their more, wealthy and vain countrymen 
 at " home," who have to spend six months a year within the 
 sound of "Bow bells," toyprevent a contraction of some incompre- 
 hensible accent or j^atois — an exemption that Americans, in their 
 vast territory of from four to six millions of square miles, are free 
 from. An officer of the 59th said to me yesterday, in speaking 
 of nobility, " Er — r — you have nobility in America, the same as 
 we do I supjDose " — as if he had forgotten what a republic meant. 
 I don't feel surprised at English pride and vanity over the con- 
 tinentals, to whom they are and ever have been superior in 
 almost every respect, and especially in the sinews of war, not- 
 withstanding their small size and immense territory to be guarded ; 
 but I do censure their pretended ignorance and stupidity about 
 all else but their own affairs, as if they alone engrossed the sole 
 attention of the world, and an Englishman, wherever he goes, to 
 be worshipped as a superior being. I should feel vain too, if I 
 were an Englishman, and saw what my country had accom- 
 plished, and how superior in all that gave power, influence, and 
 respect, she was to the rest of Europe. But when it comes to 
 America, they must change their tone. "We have shown our- 
 selves superior to them in our contests. In a hundred years we 
 have twice shook off their arbitrary yoke, and in that time 
 created a commercial marine that all but equals their own 
 boasted one. We have taught them, in science, the application 
 of steam to boats, the telegraph and use of lightning rods, the 
 theory of storms, the probability of a telegraphic cable across 
 the Atlantic;* in practical life, how to build fast ships and yachts ; 
 and in the Chinese seas, the possibility of breasting the monsoons 
 — a thing not done until within a few years, when the example 
 was set by ovir bold and skilful China captains ; and in our print- 
 ing presses, etc. 
 
 * Now reduced to a certainty by the one lately laid. 
 
CANTON-ENGLISH. 269 
 
 July 23c?, At Sea. — Breakfasted with A , where I met 
 
 Col. Kean — an old Indian officer — then packed np, and off on the 
 steamer. There are very few passengers, three Englishmen, two 
 
 Spaniards and the wife of one, with Mr. F and I, make up 
 
 the number. 
 
 This is my third step homeward — from Canton being my first — 
 sweet as the sound and pleasant the anticipations, I've before me 
 many a long day and weary league before I accomplish the dis- 
 tance, and view all the intervening sights. I should have 
 enjoyed very much a visit to Ning-Po ; it is a curious town, and 
 the resort of wealthy retired merchants. In the private houses 
 at Canton, Macao and Hong-Kong, I saw much of their curiously 
 inlaid furniture. It is done in ivory and woods, representing 
 animals, trees, etc. 
 
 The Canton-English, as it Ls termed here, is most ridiculous — 
 a compound of Chinese, Portuguese and English — so abbreviated, 
 turned and twisted in a sentence, that one hardly knows what he 
 is saying. They have at Canton, all the variety of temperate 
 climate fruits, and many we are not accustomed to, that are 
 delicious. The sea is now rough, and the barometer is falling. 
 The captain, apprehensive of a typhoon, has taken in all sail. 
 
 I should like to see one — but not be in it. S was caught 
 
 in a typhoon coming to China three months ago, and the captain 
 being nervous and timid, resigned the charge of the ship to his 
 first mate ! 
 
 July 24, 25, and 26. — Pleasant. Passed a ship yesterday and 
 
 to-day in sight of land. S and I have been enjoying the 
 
 breeze all the evening on top of the paddle-box, and he is a capital 
 companion at sea. This evening we saw shooting stars, and a 
 brilliant meteor that came down ^vith a train like a comet, burst- 
 inor near the sea. 
 
 o 
 
 July 31. — Sunday — the usual routine, mustering the crew for 
 inspection, and a curious sight it is, each in his gala dress — and 
 
270 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 such a medley of nations, colors, and costumes ! — Some of the Mus- 
 sulmen, for sash to their white gowns, splice two or three pocket 
 handkerchiefs. Then came prayers (the Episcopal service) in the 
 cabin. Our portly captain on one side of the table, and the 
 doctor, with corresponding dimensions on the other, officiating as 
 clerk ; while the passengers, and those of the crew who wish to 
 attend, are scattered about the cabin. This evening we are in 
 the Straits of Malacca, and have passed several islands. 
 
 August 1st and 2nd^ SINGAPORE. — The steamer anchored here 
 
 yesterday morning. Mr. F took me to call on Mr, and 
 
 Madame G , the French consul and his wife — with whom I 
 
 was much pleased. On our way home we found a prize in the 
 form of a basket of mangustines, and I wish you were here to 
 enjoy them with us ; they are indescribably delicious. 
 
 On unpacking some of my luggage I found a bag filled with 
 pulverized charcoal, and a trunk with an innumerable population 
 
 of ants. At breakfast Mr. F introduced me to a Mr. 
 
 T of Boston, who is out here temporarily on business. 
 
 This morning I drove Mr. F to the steamer. He will stop 
 
 at Bombay, to see some relatives, and the curiosities of the place 
 
 and neighborhood. On my return to the hotel a Mr. E , a 
 
 friend of F 's, called and invited me to dine with him this 
 
 afternoon. He has a pleasant place three miles out of town. . The 
 drive was fine, and the party very agreeable. The colonel of 
 the regiment here, a great traveller in Burmah and Australia, 
 and two or three lesser notabilities were present. 
 
 August 3c? and 4:ih. — Yesterday I spent in reading, driving, 
 and seeing friends. To-day an acquaintance told me of one of 
 the odd and cruel customs of the natives here, which he saw 
 about a year since, practised by the poorer people to regain their 
 caste, when they have not money to buy it back. A dozen 
 Malays passed, preceded by a band of native musicians, the whole 
 followed by a large crowd, each of the twelve having his tongue 
 
AN AMUSING STORY, 271 
 
 drawn out as far as possible, and tlien a silver skewer passed 
 tkrougli both clieeks and tongue, tlius keeping it extended. In 
 that way they marched through the town. The next day they 
 were led down to a charcoal pit forty feet long, filled with live 
 coals, when, after being plied with liquor till they were nearly 
 frantic, they rushed across, over and through this fire, entirely 
 naked, except the three feet of twine and pocket handkerchief — 
 winter costume of the Bombay natives — ^reaching the opposite 
 side they fall into a pit of water. 
 
 There is a cousin of Gordon Gumming, the celebrated sports- 
 man of Southern Africa, a Mr. G , who told me an amus- 
 ing story of his experience in caste a few years ago, when he 
 came to India. He and two or three other young civiHans, took 
 a house together. Their butler transgressing some rules they 
 had established, they told him if he did so again, they should flog 
 him. He did so, and they flogged him. He complained to the 
 civil magistrate, who sent for them to know what it meant. 
 They explained, and he said he would have to make a severe 
 example of them, as they were civilians, and knew better. They 
 said they knew the law, and amount of the fine, and were willing to 
 pay it. The Judge was not satisfied with this, and was deter- 
 mined to make an example of them. So when the trial came on, 
 the plaintiff told his story, and brought his witnesses to prove it. 
 The first man (a fellow-servant, as were the other witnesses) 
 stated he was not aware of the man's ever having been flogged, 
 that he had been about the house all day, that their masters, the 
 Sahibs, were always very kind and indulgent to them — never 
 even scolding them, much less flogging, or even threatening to 
 flog them ; and that the butler had asked permission to go and 
 see some of his friends or family the day before this was alleged 
 to have occurred, and was absent several days by permission ; so 
 that he could not possibly have been flogged, and during the 
 butler's absence, their masters were almost constantly about the 
 house, and the one who was alleged to have done the flogging 
 was sick abed. This evidence was corroborated by all the 
 
272 FKOM WALL STEEET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 others. The Judge, and the young civilians, were perfectlj 
 amazed, as well as the plaintiff, at this series of falsehoods ; and 
 afterwards, asking the servants what it meant, they said, the man 
 flogged was a high-caste Hindoo, and if it had been known he had 
 been flogged, it would have cost him all his wages for months to 
 buy into his caste again, and so they lied him out of the difficulty. 
 
 August 5th mid Gth, Sustgapore. — Yesterday, studying, draw- 
 ing, and shopping, and in the evening at Madm. G 's- 
 
 Took my daylight walk as usual with T , then break- 
 fast, shopping and sketching. This afternoon out driving with 
 
 T , and this evening to the band. This hotel, I am very 
 
 sorry to say, is horrible, and to make the matter worse, there is 
 no opposition, though this is the regular stopping-place for the 
 China steamers, which are here four times a month, two or three 
 days each time. The Australian line stop here, besides a host 
 of ship captains. Vessels arrive daily, upwards of 900 stop 
 annually ! either for freight or provisions. This is the great depot 
 of the surrounding islands. 
 
 The ship captains complain terribly of the state of affairs in 
 Australia ; the sailors keeping quite the upper hand, and know- 
 ing every captain's character. In fact, the latter are always 
 obliged to produce a certificate of good conduct from their last 
 crew, before a single sailor will ship. An American captain 
 
 here, told T he had been obliged to put two of his sailors 
 
 in jail when he arrived in port. When he wished to sail again, 
 and wanted to ship a crew, the men all refused to ship, and 
 laughed at him. At last, happening to see a stranger, who, on 
 being asked to ship, inquired the name of the captain and vessel. 
 When told, he immediately replied, "Oh ! you're the captain who 
 has got men in jail." The captain said he had done it because 
 they would not work. "You did right, "replied Jack; "Well, 
 where you going?" "Batavia." "Well, my terms are seventy 
 pounds cash down." The captain demurred a little at the ex- 
 travagant terms, when Jack said, " Oh ! if you wish security 
 
MORNING WALKS. 273 
 
 against my running away, I can let you liave a couple of thou- 
 sand pounds." This is only one of the many particular 
 instances I've heard. 
 
 August 7ih. — T and I off by daylight for our constitu- 
 tional, the only time one can take exercise in this climate. We 
 do a circuit of a little over five miles in the hour, literally 
 making it exercise. This morning, to vary, we went to the top 
 of the hill, on which the government house is situated, whence 
 there is a lovely view of the harbor and surrounding country. 
 Here added the seeds of ten flowering trees to my collection. 
 
 After breakfast to church. This afternoon T and I took 
 
 a turn in the gharry (the name of a kind of cab with four 
 wheels). This evening on returning from church, found the 
 
 card of Mr. Gr , a Boston merchant I had met at Penang. 
 
 Going in the room of a friend, I happened to find him. lie was 
 
 here when Colonel M stopped on his way to China, 
 
 G went with him to call on several of the ofiicials, the 
 
 governor, etc. Col. M going in his dirty, dusty, shabby 
 
 clothes, just as he came from the steamer. On his way back 
 after some apparent deliberation, he remarked, "Well, these 
 
 English seem to be pretty decent sort of folks." G is 
 
 very anxious for me to go to Java with him, and I have almost 
 decided to do so, as my steamer has not arrived yet for Calcutta, 
 the Java scenery is so fine, and their exhibition is to open 
 on the 1st of September. 
 
 August 8th and 9th. — My usual occupations of morning walks, 
 languages, and drawings. To-day I called upon a gentleman who 
 has lately returned from Java, to learn about the country. This 
 
 afternoon to G 's to dine, and met a Captain H 
 
 of the Bengal Presidenc}^, who gave me four or five letters to 
 
 his family and friends. Took a drive with G , and spent 
 
 part of the evening at his house. He gave me two very pretty 
 Malacca canes, and a fine Java pumelo — very like those at Bora- 
 
 18 
 
274 FROM WALL STEEET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 bay. They arc a large round fruit, about six incbes in diameter, 
 with peel and appearance like a huge orange — the meat of a 
 pinkish tinge, in segments like an orange, and flavor of a deli- 
 cious acid, most refreshing in a warm climate. 
 
 August lOlh. — Our usual daylight walk. To-day I ordered a 
 Chinaman to paint me every kind of fruit that grows at any 
 place in the " Straits." G told me that about one hun- 
 dred miles inland there is a race of people who are supposed to 
 be the aborigines of the country. They are dwarfs in size, 
 always go nude. They build nests in the branches of trees where 
 ithey live, and are very timid and shy ; but the missionaries have 
 several times managed to see them. I have decided to go with 
 
 G to Java, as he thinks he wnll be able to travel with me, 
 
 which will greatly add to my pleasure. 
 
 August 11th. — Finished my daylight walk just in time to avoid 
 the rain. When it rains here, it is no half-way affair, but a 
 miniature deluge, and comes down in torrents. This afternoon, for 
 variety, I strolled into a criminal court-room in session. They 
 were trying a Portuguese for stealing twenty -four pounds of gold, 
 $6,000. By his side stood another criminal waiting for his turn 
 — he was up for stealing a chicken. Here they have a custom 
 ■of making the prisoner stand during the trial, which is giving 
 ■him part of the punishment beforehand. 
 
 My new acquaintance T amuses me much. He was 
 
 obliged to come off suddenly for a year on business, and leave 
 Tiis pretty wife and little child. He gets awfully low-spirited 
 about it, while I, who am a jolly bachelor, have no cares or 
 troubles but those incident to my wanderings. Among our 
 standing amusements, are a young Prussian and a Scotchman, 
 between whom there is a probability of the battle of Waterloo 
 Toeing eventually settled, as it forms the usual topic for every 
 meal, each claiming the credit for his own nation — of course. 
 
 August 12th. — To-day I saw the table of weather during June, 
 
t life. 
 
 
 
 'f= 
 
 '^,/':;| 
 ..j^' 
 
 #■ " 
 
 
 
 3^. 
 
 ■--.-^^ 
 
 ':\\:. 
 
 
 
 L ^ 
 
 „S>.i.i'i- 
 
 >."^^=^ 
 
 ''J'^ir:!!)'! Irii 
 
 
 ^'^•^..Mfc 'ill 
 
ST.iRVATION DIET. 275 
 
 "which is r,early a correct sample of the year, the weather varies so 
 little. At 6 A.M. the thermometer ranged from 81° to 82° — three 
 times stood at 79= ; at 12 M. from 81° to 85° ; at 3 p.m. 81° to 
 86", generally at 83°. Thirteen days fair, the rest wet, with rain 
 squalls. This month about the same. 
 
 This evening to Madame G 's to dinner. The guests 
 
 formed a striking contrast to the hostess. She is young, plea- 
 sant, and pretty — they " in the forties," ugly and affected. The 
 
 men as equally below Mr. G in social requisites. I quite 
 
 forgot the custom of taking a servant to wait upon me at table, 
 I was so in the habit in India of having my servant go without 
 my order, as he always knew when and where I was to dine. 
 But luckily I saw among the guests the manager of the Oriental 
 Bank here, so I took a seat by him, and begged the occasional 
 loan of his servant, or I should have had a bad chance for my 
 
 dinner. As I am not expecting to stay here long, T lets 
 
 me " sponge" on his servant, which, from the meagre allowance 
 at table, consists in our being at the table the moment the bell 
 rings, and while we seize the dishes within our reach, the ser- 
 vant brings the two or three others we want, and holds them 
 until we have got on our plates all we wish for the meal. It's a 
 starvation diet we are on here, and the best man is he who gets 
 hold of the best dishes first. 
 
 August ISth. — This afternoon a drive, and to hear the band. 
 A day or two ago, I saw a new " dodge" for a card. It belonged 
 to a Dutch exquisite from Batavia — no name, but the face (head 
 and part of the shoulders). The only amusement during the day, 
 besides my books is studying routes and lang-uages, sketch- 
 ing, and watching the various ships in the harbor as they come 
 and go ; or the little gharries, drawn by a pony and guided by a 
 small native at his side, usually both at full speed. The pine- 
 apples in this place are celebrated for their sweetness, and being 
 so free from aciditj*, no one ever uses sugar with them. Among 
 the fruits that particularly please the native taste, is the dorian, 
 
276 FEOM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 wliicli is especially odoriferous — a compound of antiquated 
 eggs and onions. I frequently smell it when my China boy is 
 taking his lunch outside of my door. 
 
 August lA.tli. — Last night the Calcutta steamer arrived. During 
 the voyage she experienced a typhoon. Coming in from my 
 walk this morning, I saw the signals for the Bombay and China 
 steamers, making three mails to be examined and five to be got 
 ready in twenty -four hours, viz. for England, Calcutta, Austra- 
 lia, China, and Java — a most unusual thing. After church, Mr. 
 
 S , the manager of the Oriental Bank, called, and took 
 
 me out to dine with him, and then home again, as he said he 
 had been paying out money all the morning, and should be 
 doing so until mid-day to-morrow. The strangers are keeping 
 the place lively, and gharry boys are making money. Gharries 
 and passengers are flying about in all directions. 
 
 August 15th. — This morning I called on Mrs. G , to bid 
 
 good-bye; while there, the chief-justice came in — Sir Somebody. 
 At the reading-room I saw some late papers from the United 
 States — quite a luxury, I assure you. "While lunching, in 
 walked a man with most dolorous face, and informed us he had 
 been left by the China steamer — poor fellow ! — a fortnight here 
 is worse than state prison life, it's so stupid. 
 
 August 16iJi. — T accompanied me on board to see me 
 
 safely off. Luckily I found there were very few passengers. 
 The steamer is horribly dirty, and the fare worse, if i^ossible — 
 the day dull, cloudy, and wet. In pleasant weather the sail is 
 beautiful. This afternoon stopped at Ehio, and took in a post- 
 captain and two army oflEicers. Half-a-dozen friends of the 
 latter tried to got up a hip, hip, hurrah ! on leaving, but they 
 had either libated too freely of beer, or not enough, for they 
 " couldn't come it." There was a brig of war lying at anchor 
 there, and quite a large fortress, with an esplanade, on the hill. 
 
BANCA AND BATAVIA. 277 
 
 The product of the place is spice. This is a transportation set- 
 tlement from Java. 
 
 August 17th, Banca. — At midnight came to anchor, this 
 being the coaling station. The weather and sea have both been 
 very rough to-da3^ Last night we crossed the equator. As it 
 was raining I did not get up to see it, so I cannot inform you 
 how it looks. The current runs six miles an hour, so we coal 
 slowly. There is a fortress here, and the tin mines which pay 
 to the government an annual revenue of $1,005,000 ; they are 
 very celebrated, and alone produce 2,000 tons, or one-half of all 
 the Malay tin, which is very remarkable for its purity. Batavia 
 is the principal place of export for it. These islands, and the 
 Peninsula of Malacca produce about 4,000 tons annually, with 
 their imperfect smelting by Chinese and Malays, while the tin 
 mines of Cornwall and Devon, under the most favorable circum- 
 stances, only produce 5,000 tons ! 
 
 August 18th, Straits of Banca. — At eight this morning we 
 were off. The Straits are like a magnificent river, with densely 
 wooded shores. The navigation is very bad from the shoals ; 
 one part reminded me much of the " South Bay," my own boat- 
 ing place. This afternoon in the Java Sea, and rather rough. 
 
 August 19th, Batavia Eoadstead. — Steamed in here at near 
 midnight, so remained on board until morning. We passed a 
 Dutch war cutter this afternoon, and shortly after a dangerous 
 sand bank of about an acre in surface, just visible above the 
 water. The sea is generally very shoal, and we were passing 
 flats all day. The harbor, to Hibernicise, is an open roadstead, 
 and entirely unprotected. Fortunately they have no storms of 
 any consequence, and so vessels can lie at anchor in safety at 
 all seasons. 
 
 August 20ih, Batavia. — At seven this morning we landed, 
 after half a mile of rowing reached the entrance of the canal, 
 
278 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 which extends out for a long distance. The canal is rather 
 narrow, with great numbers of sharks and crocodiles. Here the 
 freight boats arc towed in and sail out. I saw quite a number ; 
 they are all well built for sailing, many with hollow lines. The 
 distance on the canal was perhaps a mile and a half. Here we 
 and our " traps " were disembarked, and underwent a ceremonial 
 examination by the custom-house officers, which greatly amazed 
 
 G s unsophisticated servant, who gravely asked me, "Why 
 
 they do so fashion this country ?" Then we were off in most 
 primitive chaises for the hotel, Anthony and our luggage in 
 one, and our noble selves in the other — our steeds were "Button" 
 in miniature, and about as willing to go. 
 
 Passing through the business part of the town, had a drive of 
 a mile and a half to the " Hotel Netherlander," en route we 
 passed the Governor's, and many other nice-looking houses- 
 The roads are good and well sprinkled, and the place more com- 
 fortable looking than anything I've seen for many a long 
 day, reminding me more of a New England village, than any- 
 thing I can think of. Here I found nice rooms, bath, and break- 
 fast, most delightful privileges, which we fully appreciated after 
 our four days of discomfort, in fact of my continued discomfort 
 
 since leaving Mr. F 's house at Macao. We then sallied 
 
 out to find Mr. E , the head American merchant here 
 
 (my steamer acquaintance from Point de Galle). He at once 
 entered into our plans, and tried to persuade one of his partners 
 to join us, and introduced us to both of them. He then sent out 
 for the government j^ermit^ without ivhich we cannot travel here. 
 
 This afternoon we took a drive through the place, which is 
 very prettily laid out. Many of the grounds of the houses 
 resembling small parks. The houses are of one or two stories, 
 generally of wood, with every appearance of comfort, and 
 almost painfully neat. Then home, and this evening a walk, 
 and the luxury of ice cream. 
 
 August 21. — Th.is morning I took an early walk, while G — — 
 
A JAVA CURRIE. 279 
 
 went to "mass" (being a Catholic). In passing a large plain 
 called the Waterloo, I saw a stone column, surmounted by a 
 lion ; at its base a Latin inscription, the amount of which was — 
 a grateful memorial of the glorious peace, effected on the bloody 
 field of Waterloo, by the vigor and energy of the Dutch arms ! 
 Soon after, a most peculiar tandem "turn-out," with two young 
 Dutch "bloods." Button would have been a cart-horse to either 
 of these steeds. 
 
 Then home, and with G to E 's to breakfast. 
 
 He has a beautiful new house, which he has just moved into, 
 
 and not yet quite furnished, Mrs. E not as well as when 
 
 I saw her on board the steamer, she had then just returned from 
 a trip to Europe and the United States for her health. She is a 
 daughter of one of the late governors of the island. We had 
 a capital breakfast, with lots of little darkies, whose grinning 
 faces, as they gave us the benefit of their huge fans, looked 
 
 most familiar. E talked over our tri^D, and arranged all 
 
 the plans. We then returned home, and to-morrow shall start 
 
 for a visit of a few days to see an American friend of G -. — , 
 
 who lives about sixty or seventy miles in the countrj^, on a 
 plantation he owns. On our return, we shall go ofP on our 
 longer tour. 
 
 Our breakfast at E 's was literallj a dejeimej^ a lafourclieile; 
 
 there were only one or two of E 's or Mrs. E 's 
 
 family, besides ourselves, and as we had told him we had heard 
 he was celebrated for his fine curries (for every place has its 
 currie: in India, one for each presidency, one for Ceylon, one 
 for Java, and another in China), so he determined to equal it, 
 and gave orders accordingly. A Java currie is the rice and 
 currie in separate dishes as usual, then a tableful of other 
 concomitants, chickens prepared in various ways, omelettes, 
 fricandeaux, with four or five other dishes, the contents I forget 
 now, and all prepared Avith the greatest skill, for he keeps one 
 servant whose sole business it is to prepare one half of the 
 currie. After we had got a little of each of these dishes, a 
 
280 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE, 
 
 servant brought on a waiter a large china dish with a dozen 
 different divisions, each with a different preparation of spices, 
 vegetables, chillies, and chutnejs (a pungent preparation like 
 Worcester sauce, catsup, and such like), from each of which you 
 take a small portion, and the whole well stirred up or "shook 
 before taken," as the cook-books and doctors' prescriptions say, 
 after which the currie is complete, and the perfection and 
 desideratum of such a currie is — each mouthful must have a 
 different flavor. Doctors and chemists may talk about the 
 deleterious effects of compounds, but I would not give much 
 for their resolution, if a Java currie was " on hand," after they 
 had had one good taste of one. I don't know of any more 
 tempting dish for a hon vivant. 
 
 This evening we drove out to hear the band — and such a lot 
 of Dutch exquisites, with " white ties" and queer-looking clothes, 
 displaying their horsemanship on skeleton ponies, and lofty- 
 stepping officers in white plumes, much admired hy ihenvselves 
 and the natives ! This evening, packing up a bag to go to Mr. 
 
 D 's, who, until he retired lately, was the head of E 's 
 
 firm. 
 
 Aug. 22d, "Wanasapee. — We were off by daylight this morn- 
 ing ; a wild drive with only one incident, which occurred just as 
 we left the suburbs. One of the leaders tried to take a short 
 cut to a house he had been in the habit of stopping at, and 
 tumbled into a deep ditch, dragging the other leader and one 
 wheeler in with him. Thev were all soon extricated, and then 
 we galloped on at full speed, once narrowly escaping an upset in 
 
 the river from a " sh}-," and reached Mr. D 's at twelve. 
 
 As we were crossing a small river in front of his house, he saw 
 us, and came running down the bank to meet us, with a hand and 
 hearty welcome to each. 
 
 On reaching the house he presented us to his wife, a recent 
 acquisition he had brought from America, (he went to the United 
 States two years ago with Gr , when Cupid pierced his 
 
LARGE ESTATES. 281 
 
 baclielor heart), she is a very pretty, nice person, and I soon found 
 we had many mutual acquaintances. He is much interested in 
 his sugar plantation and mill. The latter he had us out to see 
 as soon as breakfast was over. He has a fine American engine, 
 and this year will probably make over five hundred tons of sugar, 
 a very large amount when it is considered the place was a dense 
 teak jungle only seven years ago. In the sugar mill we were 
 
 introduced to a Mr. S , a relative of the M 's at 
 
 Morrisania, who came out to assist in the management of an 
 estate his uncle, or rather his aunt, the widow has, consisting of 
 several thousand square miles, and with over 30,000 people 
 on it. Tlicre is one man on the island, a half caste (white father 
 and native mother) from Bengal, who owns thousands of square 
 
 miles, and has 74,000 people on the estate ! Mr. D has 
 
 1,700 acres, 500 cleared and cultivated, with 500 hands, and 
 about 2,500 people altogether. 
 
 This afternoon we rode around the sugar fields, when G 
 
 drew Mr. D out on some of his tiger-shooting exploits j 
 
 for though he is fifty-five, he is very active, and a keen sports- 
 man, as you may suppose. When only a few days ago while in a 
 sick bed, a report was brought of a tiger in a tree near his cat- 
 tle pens, he sprang out of bed, barely waiting to dress, and 
 rushing oflT with his rifle, left the rest to follow with torches (for 
 it was evening) as. they could. He wounded the tiger, who made 
 
 for the river, followed by D and the dogs, D followed 
 
 him into the river in water up to his neck, trying to spear him, 
 when a servant brought another rifle, with which he shot him. 
 
 He is a famous shot. By way of showing a Dutch gentleman 
 who was boasting of his prowess, the way the Americans did the 
 thing, as they were returning from an unsuccessful tiger hunt, 
 happening to sec a monkey on a tree at a long distance, he drew 
 up and knocked him over. Measuring the distance found it was 
 400 yards ! Not bad for a man of fifty-five. 
 
 This evening Mrs. D has been posting me up on home 
 
 news and gossip, sundry marriages, half-a-dozen deaths, and one 
 
282 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 separation ; and tliat a newyacTit, the Sylvie, is to come out and test 
 lier sailing qualities with the English yacht squadron, since they 
 have had the America yacht for a model. So success to the Sylvie. 
 
 Aug. 2M. — At daylight I took a walk by the river. The 
 scenery is as wild as it is possible to conceive without barren 
 rocks and mountains. I saw several flat-boats being towed up 
 
 the stream. Mr. and Mrs. D had this morning a visit 
 
 from a native regent and his wife. They were most peculiar 
 looking and dressed people. She wore her hair long, brushed 
 back from her forehead, and tied in a knot behind, with a purple 
 gown and light scarf thrown over one shoulder and resting 
 loosely under the other arm, where it was tied. He wore a ban- 
 dana handkerchief turban, his hair as usual, long and tied in a 
 knot behind. He had a green satin jacket, a shirt the collar a 
 la Byron, and fastened with diamond buttons, white trowsers ; 
 and over this a sarone (a certain kind of figured cotton fabric 
 that in width reaches from the waist to the ancles, and about six 
 feet long, joined at the ends, the surplus length being made into 
 a fold, and the whole being kept at the waist by rolling over the 
 upper part) all completed by a kreis with a rich gold scabbard. 
 
 This is the weapon of the " Straits," and they vary in every 
 possible way as to size and shape. I know of no weapon made 
 in so many different styJes. Every native wears this weapon, and 
 will limit himself to one article of dress — almost to the Bombay 
 Coolie's winter costume — to purchase one. Even children ten and 
 twelve years of age, wear them. Around the crown of my 
 " wide awake " (felt hat) I wear a very light roll of thin lawn, to 
 protect my temples, and head from the sun — an Indian fashion. 
 
 S told me this morning that some of their Mussulmen 
 
 work-people had inquired with great interest if I was a Hadji, and 
 had been to Mecca. As the white turban among them, is an indi- 
 cation of that pilgrimage having been made by the wearer. I 
 suppose the color being ironical on their increased purity, for 
 Hadji in the East is almost a synonymous term with rascal. 
 
THE GIBSON AFFAIR. 283 
 
 This afternoon S and I have been riding over the estate, 
 
 he giving me an account of his tour to the Rocky Mountains 
 with Audubon. This evening we talked of home where we have 
 
 numbers of mutual friends and acquaintances. Mr. D says 
 
 that Gibson, whose affair and escape has created considerable 
 excitement here and in the United States, was perfectly innocent, 
 the whole difficulty arising from the malice of a half caste, who 
 was high in oflice, and of course had power, and through his friends 
 
 the ear of the Governor. G happening to be dining at 
 
 some public or official dinner, and seeing this half caste at table, 
 supposed from his very dark color he was a native, said to his 
 neighbor, soito voce, what is that nigger (the common term for 
 native in the east) doing at the table with all these officials ? 
 The fellow heard it himself, or through some one else, and made 
 all the subsequent difficulties, to be revenged on Gibson for the 
 remark. They say here, that the Government wishing to get rid 
 of him, arranged matters so that he could escape, and they to 
 save themselves from creating a national difficulty. 
 
 August 24, Batavia. — "We were up at daylight, and after an 
 early breakfast and a good-bye to all, started back for tliis place. 
 
 Poor S ! I pity him. Induced ten years ago by his relatives 
 
 to come out here, and they did nothing for him after his arrival. 
 
 Mr. D has endeavored to assist him as much as possible, but 
 
 this contemptible, susj)icious, arbitrary government will not allow 
 him to go anywhere in the interior and hire an estate, where he 
 could make something, so he is obliged comparatively to waste his 
 time as engineer at Mr. D 's. 
 
 The tigers are very numerous, and destructive to many of the 
 neat cattle. The buffaloes, however, when several are together, 
 and sometimes when alone, will protect themselves against this 
 enemy, and where he has actually attacked one, they have been 
 known to kill him. When the boy who watches them, sees or 
 suspects a tiger, he will make them form a circle around him, 
 and protect him ; so Mr, D told me. 
 
284 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 On our return, we found Mr. E had almost everytliing 
 
 ready for our departure, including the pass, and his own travelling 
 carriage which he insisted upon our taking. 
 
 G is deep in plans for an ice house for the whole town. 
 
 The common women here wear for ornament ! an ivory ring in 
 the lower part of their ears, from an inch to an inch and a half 
 in diameter. They commence when the person is a child with a 
 small one, and by gradually stretching, they get them in of this 
 size. They have also another addition to their beauty. When 
 they have no beauty, I suppose they adopt the reverse of the 
 quotation of " beauty unadorned," they file a deep line across 
 the front teeth, and color it black (which must necessarily cause 
 them to decay quickly I should think). Instead of carrying the 
 hay in carts, the Coolies have two X's and attach one to either end 
 of the banghy, a bamboo pole of five or six feet in length, to which 
 they suspend things and carry on their shoulders. 
 
 August 2oth, Britenzorf. — I went to Mr. E 's office this 
 
 morning and got the " needful " — he being my banker. He gave 
 us a number of letters of introduction, being a very well known 
 and highly esteemed person. In the carriage we found a famous 
 supply of choice wines, etc., from his cellar, which he had put 
 away for us, as they are not to be had at many of the places on the 
 road. At half-past three we got off. I have a new acquisition, 
 in the form of a most peculiar looking youngster for a servant — 
 the only one I could find, and as he don't understand anything 
 but Malay, and my stock of that is of the minimum order, I 
 take it our conversations will be brief, and most likely to the 
 point. There are post-houses and relays of horses at every ten 
 miles, kept up by government, for which you pay at the pleasant 
 cost of a dollar a mile each wa}^ Thus you see one enjoys 
 several luxuries in Java, for they will not allow any one to inter- 
 fere or run opposition to this post 
 
 The Government is "a screw" of the greatest magnitude, and 
 highest power, and the result of every squeeze, great or small, 
 
Skelelied by the Author. St'e t>a^e 2S-2. 
 
 A JAVANKSK liKC.KNT. 
 
Sketched by the Author. See page 2S2. 
 
 WIFE OF JAVANESE REGENT. 
 
d'tangoke. 285 
 
 goes into its own coffers. On our way to this place at every post- 
 house we had to show our pass, and sign our names in a Govern- 
 ment book. The officers seeing us in such a handsome carriage, 
 supposed we " were some," and they were proportionably gra- 
 cious. Some, as they studied over our names, became geographic 
 at mine — one quite so, dechning it I suppose, for he said "Ire- 
 land, Hand, same as Friedland, I know very well, big country, 
 3,000,000 people, much, very much ship — ten ship!" whereupon 
 
 G and I became convulsive. "VYe reached this place at 
 
 eight, after various experiences with baulky leaders and wheelers — 
 one set keeping us three hours on a seven mile stage. These post 
 horses are a curious race of little brutes, not over twelve or thirteen 
 hands. The country-seat of the Governor of the island is here. 
 
 August 26th, D'tangoke. — Up by daylight this morning for 
 a walk to see the Governor's house, a fine large residence, the 
 architecture a compound of Grieco-Hollandic taste. In the 
 park a large herd of deer, probably two hundred. They were 
 much like the small park deer of England. "When I returned, 
 my boy brought me a most flowery-looking blue calico coat, 
 with a request that I would purchase it for him, envious, I pre- 
 sume, of Anthony's red sash and overpowering white turban ; 
 so with amiable weakness I consented, in the hopes of detracting 
 some from his ugly "phiz," if I could not add to its beauty; 
 but I've since discovered I was only giving Master Ganymede a 
 basis of vanity to build upon, and now he's trying to finger our 
 money-bag to complete his toilet. 
 
 The altitude of this place is 850 feet, and on each side of this 
 high land rise two mountains, one, Salah, 7,400 feet in height, 
 and the other, Gidae, a smoking volcano of 9,400 feet ! The air 
 is delightfully cool. 
 
 At eight we were off, having been delayed several hours for 
 horses. An attempt at a second delay we nipped in the bud by 
 intimating, most unmistakably, our intention of appealing to 
 the Eesident ; whereupon magic influence was brought to bear, 
 
286 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 and we off a^ain in ten minutes. We had a delav of two liours 
 on tlie road for horses, and being tiffin time, we improved it, 
 accommodating ourselves in a Chinaman's shop. He presented 
 
 us all sorts of viands, redolent with garlic, which G , with 
 
 imprudent curiosity, indulged in ; but being more frugal in my 
 tastes, I was satisfied with my humble repast of tongue and 
 
 pate de foie gras^ with a dash of R 's choice wine from the 
 
 cellars of abstemious monastic friends of his at Manilla. The 
 horses appeared shortly after, and we continued on with them 
 until the next post, when they were relieved by buffaloes, to 
 ascend a steep lofty hill, 4,400 feet high. This range is called 
 Magnadong. We walked up, and found the views and scenery 
 magnificent. On our way up we passed a coffee plantation. I 
 picked some leaves to press. Descending the opposite side, we 
 reached this place at eight in the evening. 
 
 August 21tli^ SoMERDANG. — At half-past four this morning we 
 were up, and at daylight were ofl^. The morning was beautiful 
 and the country was charming. We crossed tlie Chetarum river 
 by a fine bridge of wood thrown across, like the wooden railway 
 network bridges of transverse beams so common in the United 
 States. We then crossed the Tjuskal by a boat. The Ooron- 
 garong mountains, and Gidae's smoking peak, formed a magni- 
 ficent background to our superb views. 
 
 We reached Bandong at twelve, and lunched under the auspices 
 of a famous old landlady, of goodly proportions, and admirable 
 cuisine displayed in the form of a capital Java currie. We 
 afterwards galloped onward, passing through scenery reminding 
 me strongly of some I saw back of Smyrna last autumn while 
 visiting the " Seven Churches." We skirted for more than a 
 mile the brow of a lofty hill with a beautiful valley beneath, so 
 narrow and deep as almost to resemble a mountain gorge. Among 
 the foliage of the primeval forest trees I often distinguished the 
 jagged leaves of the bread-fruit and the broad circular ones of 
 the teak. 
 
THE RESIDENTS. 287 
 
 August 28ih^ Cherebox. — We have passed several teak jungles 
 to-claj, and crossed a river at Konig-Sambang. We descended 
 to the plain and Cherebon, on the sea-shore at two. At five we 
 dressed up, and driving to the Resident's, presented our cards 
 
 and Mr. R 's letter. The Residents are great " swells," 
 
 with almost unlimited powder in their districts, and with their 
 guards, fine houses, and salary they live quite e7i j^^'ince. This 
 Resident, Mr. Ament (I beg pardon for omitting his dozen titles), 
 we found to be a very pleasant, gentlemanly person. He advised 
 us not to ascend the Tjermai, as at this uncertain season, after 
 all our trouble and four days of labor, we could not be able to 
 see anything but the clouds, and suggested instead a fine excur- 
 sion around its base to Konigen, Talaga, Madja, Madja-Linka, 
 and so on back to Somerdang, and would furnish us with horses 
 through the Regent (native prince) of this place, and also write 
 to the Regent of Koningen and to other gentlemen, w'ho would 
 forward us from place to place. He invited us to spend the 
 evening wdth him, but we were too much fatigued, and so 
 declined, knowing we should lose nothing. From thence to the 
 Poste, where we disturbed a fat Dutchman at his dinner, doubt- 
 less much to his annoyance. 
 
 Then to the Regent's, his head officer (I can't pretend to give 
 all his high-sounding titles), a species of prime minister received 
 us — mounted his spectacles and tried to read our cards, but 
 unsuccessfully, so blew his nose with a primitive mouchoir, les 
 doigts^ then asked us what those things (our cards) were. On 
 our enlightening him, he smiled most graciously, and trying to 
 look amiable, his extended grin, very receding nose, and pro- 
 minent chin, seemed in this case to justify the assertion of the 
 Vestiges of Creation, that the human species are descended from 
 monkej's, and the specimen before us certainly in an incipient 
 stage, if we are all in the same family. 
 
 The Javanese, if they all resemble those I have seen, will 
 never receive the prize for beauty. After a few minutes, during 
 which we had time to gaze around the fine large hall, the walls 
 
288 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 of wbicli were hung witli spears and state parasols, and a 
 wooden elephant for door screen ! and French engravings orna- 
 menting the inner walls — a mixture of barbarism and civiliza- 
 tion, TVe saw an old man, full of energy and nervousness, 
 bustle across the room towards us, tugging away at his shirt 
 collars, and trying to button his wristbands, at his back was a 
 dwarf, bearing some insignia of state, followed by others, with 
 staffs, canes, etc., etc. We at once recognised him as the Eegent; 
 he shook hands with both of us, and G did the conver- 
 sational in Malay, as my meagre quantum barely sufficed for 
 travelling, much less for courtly conversation, so I took observa- 
 tions. The Eegent wore the ordinary bandana, or such like 
 cotton-handkerchief turban, blue coat and gilt buttons, with the 
 sarone (which I've before described). His sliirt buttons and 
 studs of very brilliant diamonds, around his neck a very massive 
 gold chain, and attached to his watch a formidable bunch of 
 seals and chatelaine. He was very cidl, and said he would 
 write to his son-in-law, the Eegent of Koningen, to send us 
 horses, etc. We then returned home. 
 
 The natives are kept in famous order, and as civil as possible. 
 They are never allowed to pass a w^hite person without removing 
 their hats, and if on horseback to dismount. The Dutch grind 
 them to the very ground. The houses of the natives are built 
 of split cane, interwoven like a basket ; their costume generally 
 only a long cloth, or the sarong. This place at present is quite 
 unhealthy from fever. 
 
 August 29iJi, Koningen. — At seven w^e were en route again; 
 the scenery very grand, and the Tjermai towering above hills 
 and mountains, until lost in the clouds. At twelve we reached 
 the Eegent's. He met us on the piazza, and seems a very 
 intelligent, well informed person for a native. He was dressed 
 in the same style as his father-in-law, which seems the usual 
 costume for the better class of natives in the island. We retired 
 to our rooms, and making a toilet, met again at breakfast, where, 
 

 Sketclied liy the Author gee pa^e 252. 
 
 CHINA r.OAT- WOMAN, CAXTdN. 
 
MUSIC AND DANCING. 289 
 
 to our great surprise, we saw his wife — a most unusual thing in 
 these climes for the higher class of women ever to be seen by 
 men. She is a funny-looking, timid, startled little body. We 
 were presented to her. The fussy Dutch doctor who resides 
 here, says she is well informed, reads, writes, and even corre- 
 sponds with the families of some of the Kesidents, besides being 
 quite "a shot." The doctor would imply that she is quite an 
 angel. The Eegent is quite civilized, and only has this one 
 wife. He lives in European style, and keeps a capital cook, as 
 G and I will both testify. 
 
 After breakfast, all are supposed to retire for a nap until 
 about six, then bathe and dress for dinner, which is at ten ! An 
 exception was made to these rules for our benefit, and we were 
 shown a young rhinoceros they had caught a few days before. 
 Then they got uj) the band for our amusement. Tliis consisted 
 of about twenty performers on a variety of odd instruments, 
 mostly of brass, iron, or wood, on the principle of the flat 
 musical glasses struck with a bit of cork, except a few that were 
 shaped like an inverted bowl. 
 
 The musicians seemed to make themselves quite comfortable, 
 and smoked or not, as they fancied. All squatting before their 
 instruments ; even the servants squatted. None but the guards 
 are obliged to stand before the Eegent. After, or rather accom- 
 panying the music, was a female singer, who with another 
 woman danced for us. Shortly after, a nephew of a neigh- 
 boring Eegent, and cousin of this one, joined the dancers. On 
 great occasions, as the visit of his father-in-law, or such like, the 
 Eegent and his wife will dance. The dancins; is neither ofrace- 
 ful nor pleasing to us, consisting merely of contortions of the 
 body, with some gentle motion of the feet, which arc kept con- 
 stantly moving. Occasionally the dance is varied by a sudden 
 start, and you really fancy they are about to commence some 
 lively jig, and equally suddenly they discontinue the dancing 
 and chin, chin (" make their manners," as country people say), 
 the Eegent. Then came dinner, and shortly after, we retired to 
 
 19 
 
290 FROM "WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 bed, a very pleasant arrangement for indigestion, niglit-mare, and 
 sucli-lLke agreeabilities. 
 
 As the last Eegent, tlirough. his prime minister, made tis pay 
 for the horses we used, and this one had no such dignitary about 
 him as we could discover, we very coolly went into the business 
 matter with him. On rising from table we asked about the pay 
 for the horses ; he entered into it as if it was a matter he was 
 quite accustomed to. Though it seemed rather an odd proceed- 
 ing when we were staying at a great dignitary's house, for him to 
 charge for his horses as if he kept a livery stable. 
 
 G 's servant amused us very much. G ^heard the 
 
 "opas" (the last Eesident's servant, who accompanied us) giving 
 Anthony instructions as to what his master must do, and when 
 the " opas " came to the words " pay the Eegent," Anthony's 
 eyes expanded, and with most amusing astonishment exclaimed 
 "pay the Eegent — whew!" not understanding such kind of 
 quality people who condescended to take pay for such things. 
 After we had privately paid the dancers, the musicians sent in a 
 request for a present — there being about twenty in number. 
 
 G . our cashier, demurred in his mind about the propriety 
 
 and agreeability of paying such a host, when Anthony in the 
 full consciousness of the dignity of his master, pompously said, 
 "Massa, never do let our name stink here." "True," replied 
 
 G , handing over the " needful." The fellow amuses both 
 
 G and me very much by his various expressions and sur- 
 prises at the novelty of everything. 
 
 On looking over our post-horse receipts, I find that they, from 
 ignorance of our supposed titles, and expecting, of course, like 
 the Dutch, we must necessarily have them, they have dubbed 
 us "bania kaia" (very rich). 
 
 August SOlh. — Madja. — The Eegent took early breakfast with 
 us this morning; after which we started off, and for half the 
 distance to Talaga had a delightful drive. At that place we 
 stopped at the house of Mr. Hardy, a very nice person. He 
 
HAUNTED HOUSE. 291 
 
 provided us with saddlc-liorses, and sent the carriage on, 
 drawn by Coolies, as the road was bad, and too narrow to drive 
 safely with such shying, baulking brutes of horses as they have 
 here. 
 
 On the way here, passed much magnificent scenery. We 
 stopped to see a coffee-mill. The manager took us through it, 
 and manifested much surprise on hearing we were Americans, 
 having never seen any before ; and, I suppose, like the rest of 
 the world, thought we must necessarily be black, or "coffee- 
 colored." 
 
 From the mill, continued on without stopping, to this place, 
 where we are in capital quarters. A most gentlemanly, agree- 
 able man and host, the comptroller of the district, a Mr. Maeder, 
 and quite a young man to occupy that post. This afternoon, as 
 he was showing us about his stables, filled with Arabs, and other 
 fine horses, he amused us as he saw us looking at his stirrups. 
 "I like heavy stirrups — it is so easy to find them when you get 
 your foot out !" I thought so too, when I saw and felt their 
 enormous weight. 
 
 This evening Mr. M has been giving us a curious 
 
 account of native superstitions, and haunted houses. The natives 
 have a great dislike to ascend hills, from fear of evil sjDirits, 
 which they think dwell on them and on trees — a superstition 
 
 that pervades all this part of the east. We asked Mr. M 
 
 if he knew about a haunted house story, which we had heard a 
 great deal of He said yes, that he had his information from one 
 of the parties engaged in the matter — a General Makiel, who at 
 that time (twenty years ago), was aide-de-camp to the Governor- 
 General. Mr. M said it occurred in this neighborhood. 
 
 He had often asked the General to tell the story, but he objected, 
 and became very gloomy at the least reference to it, though 
 ordinarily a very jovial person. At last, after a merry evening 
 with a party of friends, his wife prevailed on him to tell it. 
 
 He said a native woman had cursed her child about a year 
 after its birth. In a few days it appeared to be pelted from 
 
292 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE, 
 
 above with small stones and red spittle, sucli as is expectorated 
 by tlie natives who have been chewing betel nut, chunam, and 
 tobacco. At last, the house became so notorious, that the Go- 
 vernor-General sent two ministers of state to examine into the 
 matter ; and for his own benefit and curiosity, he sent his par- 
 ticular aide-de-camp. General M , with a body of hussars. 
 
 They formed a cordon around the house, and half-a-dozen were 
 stationed up-stairs and on the roof. The child was then placed on 
 a table in the centre of the room, when to their great amazement, 
 they saw the spittle descending on it, and also damp pebbles (it 
 had rained that morning). They did not appear to come from 
 the ceiling, but were only visible some three feet above the child. 
 Unable to account for it, the Governor-General had the house 
 pulled down, to prevent the continued disturbance it caused. A 
 
 few days after the child died. Mr. M produced a meteoric 
 
 stone like a wedge-shaped agate, that, in falling, had struck the 
 haunted house. So now I'll bid good-night, having given you 
 as good a marvel as any "ism" lately started in the "States." 
 
 G told the thing to Anthony for fun. He is his valet, 
 
 and has retired in despair; his imagination, doubtless, will be 
 takino; an aerial flioht the rest of the nifrht, on a broomstick or 
 some such gallant steed, to the land of spirits, and leaving him to 
 
 the tender mercies of strangers, as G told him he meant 
 
 to visit the place to-morrow. 
 
 August olst, SoMADANG. — Starting at six, had a pleasant drive 
 back here, through a delightful country that is weighed down 
 with luxuriance at every step. 
 
 iSej)i. 1st, Bandong. — Started at five this morning, and arrived 
 at ten. Mindful of the nice cheer on our way out, stopped at 
 the same hotel. Our stout hostess looked blooming and happy 
 in the anticipations of her eighth wedding / / as we learned on 
 paying some overpowering compliments to herself, her house, 
 iind its good cuisine. 
 
Sketched by the Author. 
 
 NATIVE HOUSE. JAVA. 
 
 See page 294. 
 
SCARCITY OF TRAVELLING CARRIAGES. 293 
 
 We then took a carriage to a neighboring -waterfall of 175 
 feet, a beautiful spot and fine body of water. I made a sketch 
 of it, and then back to the hotel, where we found our compli- 
 ments had not been thrown awa}' — such a spread ! Off again, 
 but, as bad luck would have it (perhaps owing to the meteoric 
 stone), the horses shied, and one of the wheels made a regular 
 smash. G walked back to hunt up a native carriage- 
 maker, whose shop we had seen, while I followed the ruins back 
 The man has promised to repair it thoroughly by to-morrow ; so 
 we return to our fat hostess's hotel for some more good curries 
 and a night's lodging. 
 
 Sept. 2d, Dtanjore. — At six this morning we were off again, 
 and had passed the scene of yesterday's mishap only about fifty 
 yards, when we came down with a crash, hub and spokes all 
 
 parting company ! G started back to see the assistant 
 
 Resident, while I followed with the carriage ; I soon met him 
 returning. He had seen the official, who, with the Regent, were 
 in a boiling rage at a private jail-delivery of eleven prisoners last 
 night. In his fury he ordered the carriage-mal^er to repair it at 
 his own expense. We went to the Regent's and other places, to 
 try and get another vehicle, as this would not be ready for three 
 or four days, since the other hind wheel had got shaky, and they 
 drive so little here, vehicles are very scarce. We feel we arc in 
 
 a pretty " muss " with R & C (his partner), having 
 
 broken their grand travelling carriage, and we not able to get 
 any other conveyance to get back to Batavia. We received a 
 message from the assistant Resident, that he had a carriage, 
 which to oblige us he would sell ; so off we went to look at it. A 
 vagabond affair, for which the rascal asked four times its value. 
 But there was no help, for we must walk or lose our steamer ; 
 so we bought it and left our boy to follow with the broken 
 one. 
 
 At the end of the first stage, we found our purchase did not 
 wear remarkably well, and we were obliged to send for a carriage- 
 
294 FROM WALL STEEET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 maker to patcli it up. But we hope b}^ dayliglit to be off again 
 and all right. As we came along we bad an awful thunder 
 storm, the rain pouring in torrents for two hours, and I've never 
 heard such thunder. The Java thunder is terrific. 
 
 Sept. 3, BuiTENZOG and Batavia. — At five this morning we 
 had started again with fine fresh air after the rain. "We walked 
 up the Magmadong, a climb of 3,000 feet, and 4,400 above the 
 sea. The carriage followed on drawn bj buffaloes. At the 
 summit we met Eadin-Sali, a native of high rank, and a fine artist ; 
 he has visited Europe, and is quite Parisian in his manners, 
 speaking French tolerably. We had a long conversation with 
 him, and then to Buitenzog. The view descending was superb. 
 We reached the hotel at noon ; after resting we walked through 
 the Governor General's park, which is extensive, as is the Bota- 
 nical Garden ; a river flows on one side of the park and a sheet 
 of water bounds the other. In the Zoological Garden we saw a 
 young rhinoceros. 
 
 At seven we started for this place and arrived at ten ; our last 
 coachman from Buitenzog was a veritable Jehu. We had par- 
 ticularly ordered him to drive moderately, which he promised to 
 do, then cracked his whip and off at twelve or thirteen miles an 
 hour — and dark as Erebus. At every stopping-place we blew 
 him up, receiving the same promise, and on starting — the same 
 result. At last — down we came with a crash and dust flying. 
 Jumping out, found only a front wheel off. All the fault of that 
 stone — no doubt. So picked up all the nuts we could find, and 
 for want of a linch-pin I furnished a bit of wire, and the coach- 
 man tied it with rattan. Then he promised most faithfully to 
 drive slow, so we all got in, and on, and off again ; crack, crack, 
 goes " coachee's" whip, and crack, crack, follow the bonjons (horse 
 boys) whips from behind, and away go leaders and wheelers at a 
 thirteen-mile gallop, while we try to look jolly and fancy it 
 sport, though we expect at every moment another breakdown. 
 Luckily we arrived safely. The geographical ofl&cer quite forgot 
 
BATAVIA. 295 
 
 his complaisant knowledge of my name wlien lie saw it this time 
 penned in so humble a carriage. 
 
 Sept. 4, Weltervleden alias Batayia. — Being Sunday, I've 
 been in the house all day, except a short time we were out during 
 the afternoon. This evening I've engaged a most droll-looking 
 servant who speaks English — quite a windfall. 
 
 Sept. 5, "Weltervleden. — Off at half-past four with a Captain 
 
 P , a Bengal ofl&cer, who has been travelling in Java. 
 
 After breakfast to see E and C , and report our- 
 selves and mishaps. R was most gentlemanly in the 
 
 matter, deploring and regretting the accident to us from his car- 
 riage, and raved about the Assistant Resident's conduct, vowing 
 
 to tell it to every one. C was quiet as usual, though 
 
 showing much annoyance at the advantage taken of us. This 
 
 afternoon drove out, and this evening we dined at C 's, 
 
 who lives in very pretty style. Mrs. C is a very quiet 
 
 lady-like jDerson, a sister of Mrs. R 's. There were only 
 
 the two families present and we had a pleasant evening. After 
 dinner a servant brought in the letters and papers by the mail 
 from England. I saw in the Illustrated News that Yanderbilt's 
 yacht was creating great excitement in England, It must asto- 
 nish " John Bull" to see a Yankee cruising about in a yacht 
 finer and larger than their Queen's. 
 
 Sept. 6.— Off at five for my morning walk with G . On 
 
 our way stopped to see the exhibition, for which R had 
 
 obtained us special tickets, (as it will not be open as soon as anti- 
 cipated). At present everything is in a rough unfinished state ; 
 still we were much interested in the various specimens, manu- 
 factures, etc. Then home and letter writing, or trying to do so, 
 for in the middle of the day it is too hot for anything. This 
 afternoon we drove out, then to R — 's to dinner, where we 
 
296 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 met the same party as before. After dinner some visitors called, 
 
 and E told them our experience and 'the Assistant Eesi- 
 
 dent's villanj, as he docs to everybody. 
 
 Sept. 7. — Taking my usual early walk I met E breaking 
 
 in a saddle-horse. Then to the town or place of business for our 
 passports and custom-house passes. The passports and passes 
 are an awful bore here. Then got our luggage off, and bidding 
 
 E and C good bye, we are on board for Singapore, 
 
 having had a delightful visit and tour. 
 
 Java I think is rather over-praised for scenery ; I have seen 
 what is called the best in the island and it is equalled by many 
 parts of India. The soil of Java is remarkably fertile, and pro- 
 ducing a gTcat variety of crops besides fruits. The climate is 
 warm from January to January. In fact Bombay over again, 
 except for sickness. The people are under the strictest watch 
 of the government. Everything is taxed. The conduct of all 
 the officials of government looked into, all intercourse with the 
 natives is through the regents or native princes. The Dutch 
 never come personally in contact with them. The regents 
 oppress the natives very much, but they never complain until 
 they are displaced, and then the complaints pour in in thousands. 
 I am told the natives much prefer the tyranny of their own 
 people to the immediate government by the Dutch. 
 
 The police arrangements are exceedingly strict. Ko one being 
 allowed to travel at all in the island without a permit, which is 
 with difficulty obtained, and sometimes altogether refused. It is 
 even necessary to have a pass to leave the country. They must 
 necessaril}^ derive a large income from their possessions here, 
 notwithstanding the large force they are obliged to maintain, for 
 owning all the island except the small portion they have sold, 
 they lease the balance or have it worked on their account, com- 
 pelling the natives to till it for them. 
 
 Their boasted roads are all made by, and kept in order by the 
 natives at their own expense, under the positive order and super- 
 
PET SNAKES. 297 
 
 vision of the Government. The travelling is the most expensive, 
 beyond all comparison, of any country in the world. 
 
 This evening after a drive and farewell look at Batavia, we 
 bid adieu to our Hebrew host and his pretty daughter, and off 
 for the steamer. On reaching the place of embarkation, the 
 people were disposed to detain us, but the magic name of " Kesi- 
 dent" produced instant civility, attention, and despatch. On 
 board again we took possession of our old quarters. 
 
 Of the various pets of the Dutch in the island, I believe I have 
 not spoken. Many keep in their compounds, or grounds around 
 their houses, large snakes sixteen and eighteen feet long. They 
 are not poisonous and are prevented from doing harm by being 
 well fed ! There is a small snake about twelve inches long and 
 the thickness of a goose quill, called the oola-blanca, that is hor- 
 ribly venomous ; it is very much about rose bushes, and apt to 
 
 strike you in the hand when picking roses. K has had 
 
 our purchase of the Assistant Eesident placed in front of the 
 Exchange so that it is the dail}^ subject of conversation, while 
 he is careful to inform all his acquaintances of the swindle.* 
 Having gazed on the shipping and stars until midnight I shall 
 retire. 
 
 Se2:)t. 8, At Sea. — This morning my slumbers were disturbed 
 while enjoying my last nap on the transom of the saloon, by the 
 arrival of some lady and gentlemen passengers. My modesty was 
 shocked at being thus caught in my Java robe de nuit of sarone, 
 and no coat, without the ability to retreat, but recollecting that 
 was quite " en regie " for early morning costume, I soon mustered 
 an extra quantity of assurance (for it is necessary for an Eng- 
 lishman or American, in order to appear before a lady in this 
 style of dishabille, though the Dutch, either from assurance or 
 
 * The matter I've since learned reached the ears of the Governor-General, 
 who has issued orders, that in the event of any such accident occurring again, 
 the travellers shall be assisted without charge by the nearest Resident or 
 other official 
 
298 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 long Labit, don't mind it), and went up on deck to see wlio had 
 arrived, and enjoy tlie morning air before dressing, as coolly as 
 tbougb Java born. 
 
 It would rather astonish an American woman's j)ropriety, as 
 much as it does that of the English who come here, to see a lady 
 promenading a hotel piazza or the deck of the vessel, as they do, 
 with nothing on but a sarone over only one other article of a lady's 
 toilet^ as is the custom of both ladies and gentlemen here, and only 
 kept in place by rolling over and tucking in at the waist, what 
 sailors term the "slack" of the skirt, and depending entirely on 
 the hips and this tucking in to keep it in place. Over this, men 
 and women wear a loose grass cloth sack, that descends about six 
 inches below the waist, neither sex wearing shoes or stockings, 
 but shuffling along in slippers without heel pieces. The only 
 difference is the women loosen and let their hair fall down their 
 back, and the men leave theirs untouched after the night's repose, 
 which of course gives it quite an air of neglige. 
 
 My description of this costume is strictly correct. I've often 
 seen the ladies and gentlemen (people I knew to be such) walk- 
 ing the hotel piazza in this "unrig," and the ladies receiving 
 early calls from their officer and other acquaintances. It certainly 
 is " beauty unadorned." The English ladies who come here with 
 their husbands from India to travel, can't stand such a want of 
 modesty, and usually leave as soon as possible. 
 
 Our passengers consist of three ladies, some officers, a Prussian 
 
 Jew, who bores Gr and me, pretending to be a naturalized 
 
 American, and perhaps by reason of this pseudo-nationality, we 
 are made the repository of his love affairs in the matter of his 
 approaching nuptials with our late host's fair daughter. I 
 
 "chaff" him, and excite his jealousy by hinting that G 
 
 was enraptured with the fair Sarah, and innocently allude to my 
 friend's ships, and wealth, and the cupidity of fathers, who so 
 often look after wealthy husbands for their daughters, quite 
 regardless of the daughter's choice. And then that young ladies 
 often sacrifice their feelings to a handsome establishment — and 
 
Ski-tclied by tht- Aiitljur. gcc pRfc 2S-J. 
 
 JAVANESE I'OST COACUMAN. 
 
3?^^!^ 
 — ^;^' 
 
 Sketclipfi by tlifi Author. gt.g nacre 
 
 SANDILLA, THE GKEAT CAFFKE CHIEF. 
 
SINGAPORE. 299 
 
 am quite sure tiie fair Sarah is not that kind of person or her 
 father either. 
 
 Our other passengers, an Irish, (Kentucky born,) English mate, 
 who also bores me with his confidences, and is what Dickens 
 terms " particularly nasty," deeming a view of water from the 
 ship's deck a sufficiently near approach to the article. Then 
 another, Scotch by ancestry, Java born, Scotch educated, Aus- 
 tralian perfection, as long as funds lasted, and at present, Dutch 
 employe. The captain, a "John Bull," Yankee apprenticed, 
 and perfected in Dutch service. And to wind up, my friend 
 
 G , a gentlemanly, "wide awake," speculating Yankee, 
 
 descended like myself, from that first-born child of the Plymouth 
 Rock pilgrims, the everlasting Peregrine "White, educated at 
 Cambridge, and by choice a merchant. And now you have us 
 all, "barring" myself, and I take it you don't wish a chapter on 
 that. So I think you will agree with me that we are a motley 
 set of curiosities that are huddled together in this filthy boat. 
 
 Sept. llih^ Singapore. — Yesterday and the day before I stopped 
 at Banca and Minto, with nothing particular to interest or detract 
 from our misery, save the intense heat, missing seeing the 
 equator, which we crossed in the night-time again (I believe on 
 purpose to vex curious travellers), and the beautiful sail through 
 these picturesque waters. To-day anchored here at half-past 
 
 two. T having "sighted" us with his glass, met us on 
 
 the wharf Leaving G and T to see to the lusr- 
 
 guge, I hastened to my bankers to get my letters ; I found a 
 huge package, eight inches square, the collections of Jive months, 
 that had been forwarded from Calcutta. 
 
 At the hotel met a large party of Americans from California. 
 While I was away, the Chinese issued a proclamation • to tlieir 
 people, to rise and murder all foreigners ; and as they are known 
 to be such a cut-throat race here, and so numerous, the foreigners 
 were much alarmed and held meetings. The soldiers, of whom 
 there are very few, have been constantly under arms ; revolvers 
 
800 FROM WALL STKEET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 ■went up to fabulous prices. We have laughed much at our 
 
 little friend T , who valorously retired on board his ship 
 
 on account of his wife and child. The affair turned out a hoax, 
 though many fear that some day their threat may be realized, 
 when most unexpected. 
 
 The hotel is full of Australians and Californians with their 
 " six-shooters," and I have one also with the addition of rifle and 
 gun ; so we could make quite a show in our paper-shell fortress. 
 There was also another excitement while I was away — an 
 American steamboat, the " Confucius," for towing on the Yant- 
 si-kang river. She has astonished the people here, by her won- 
 derful speed of 20 miles an hour. I think it is the one sent for 
 by Mr. Forbes. " The Cape" (of Good Hope) Telegraph gave a 
 fanny report of her. The telegraph, not being accustomed to 
 seeing steamers with walking-beam engines, first reported her as 
 a war steamer (which had sailed a few days previous) in distress, 
 then a nondescript, and finally, that it must be some " Yankee 
 notion" bound to Australia. 
 
 I see, by the date of one of my letters, some more of the family 
 are in Europe, which must make a dozen or more who have, or 
 will wander abroad, and be home again without my seeing them. 
 From sympathy for the venerable or weak eyes of my readers, 
 I've quite outdone myself in penmanship for the week past, so 
 that I scarcely recognize my own performances except by their 
 unique style ; and I hope some of ni}^ correspondents will take 
 pattern from my beautiful chirography, with an occasional shake 
 of the inkstand, that, as I don't carry a copy of the Damietta 
 hieroglyphic key, or understand Colonel Eawdinson's theory, I 
 may be the better able to "guess" at their hieroglyphics. 
 
 G has just heard of a beautiful little barque I've seen here, 
 
 which has beaten the best English clipper in these parts six days 
 to Calcutta, both starting the same day. 
 
 Sept. ISth. — An early walk this morning with a friend, who 
 took me to see a nutmeg plantation. The trees were a beautiful 
 
LUXURIAXT PLANTATIONS, 301 
 
 sight, growing from ten to fifteen feet high, as graceful in shape 
 as if trimmed, and branching out from near the ground. The 
 fruit resembles an apricot in form and size. Some of the several 
 covers form spice. There were also a number of betel-nut trees, 
 a species of palm most graceful. They are not as tall as most of 
 the other kinds of palm, as they only grow thirty to fifty feet, 
 with a much more slender trunk. Then the sago palm, from 
 w^hich they get the black kaiar,* for rope or cable; and the 
 traveller's palm, a curiously shaped tree, like a huge fan, 
 besides a great variety of other trees and plants; among the 
 number the " cape jasmine," growing very large and luxuriant. 
 My friend says that the manilla hemp is a product of the plantain 
 tree. 
 
 The country here looks like a dense jungle, it is so covered 
 with luxuriant plantations of nutmegs, etc. From every hill, on. 
 all sides, picturesque bungalows peered out from the trees. As 
 the breakfast bell has rung, I must stop. After breakfast drove 
 into town for commissions, and curiosities to send home. Among 
 them, some cups and saucers of exquisitel}^ fine porcelain, the 
 most beautiful I have ever seen ; and I have only heard of twelve 
 
 finer. They were found by chance by Mr, D , who divided 
 
 with Mr, F , they were so beautiful, I also got some 
 
 "notions" which G found for me — a Chinese undersMrt 
 
 for warm weather, instead of gossamer flannel is of bamboo 
 
 network, more curious than comfortable, I should think. 
 
 I miss the over-neat Batavia houses, that always looked as if 
 the painter had given the last touch with his brush that morning. 
 
 To-day I hear of two sailing vessels at Penang, bound to 
 Calcutta, and so I shall go on in the steamer, and take a passage 
 in one, trying sails this time for variety. 
 
 The snakes are frightfully numerous here, the country is so 
 
 * I spell this word, like many others, as they are prunounced, never having 
 seen them written ; nor have I been able to find any estabhshed orthography 
 for them. 
 
302 FROII WALL STREET TO CASIIMEIIE. 
 
 jungly and swampy. T and I look* out sharp for them 
 
 in our morning walks, as it's always dark when we start. Dr. 
 
 J says the cobras here have a faculty, when they stand 
 
 np, of ejecting poison at people ; and he has known of its pro- 
 ducing death when it got in the eye. Some weeks ago the 
 China servants found a large snake like the anaconda in the 
 kitchen. In these warm climates the kitchens are always sepa- 
 rate from the houses. Here they have two ; one had not been 
 used for some weeks, and on looking in a large kettle for some- 
 thing, the servants found this brute. He lay there, and fed on 
 rats, which he caught as they passed near his head. They killed 
 him, and found he was eighteen feet long ! An officer told me, 
 a few days ago, his wife was just going to bed, when she recol- 
 lected something she wished to get out of her escritoire, the key 
 of which, in the day, she always carried attached to a black 
 guard riband, and put it under her pillow at night. Just as she 
 raised the pillow to put her hand on what she thought was the 
 guard riband, she saw it move, and discovered it was a horribly 
 venomous snake! 
 
 A few days since I saw a Peruvian, who was staying with Mr. 
 F at Canton, w^hile I was there. He is engaged in ship- 
 ping China Coolies to the Guano Islands, under a philanthropic 
 belief he has argued himself into, that he is actually performing 
 a Christian duty to these poor w^rctches, who are literally starving 
 to death from an overcrowded population ; while where he sends 
 them, they might make money, enjoy themselves, and be happy 
 — ^perhaps so, if they live long enough. But there is a purgatorial 
 probation first, of suffocating guano, which usually kills them in 
 two or three years, often in less time, they are worked so hard. 
 
 Sept. 14. — The natives are having a grand religious festival, ' 
 and all the morning the booming of cannon has been like a 
 " 4:th of July." The English mail has just got in, and I've been 
 in the reading-room all day reading speeches made on the 
 opening of the New York Exhibition, together with other 
 
VISIT TO PENANG. 303 
 
 national incidents, steamer " blow uids," and rail-road accidents. 
 I regret to see " wars and rumors of wars," and it will interfere 
 with my wanderings. 
 
 Sept. 17. — This morning shortly after daylight I had a visit 
 
 from Mr. A , who is taking a run home for a few months. 
 
 He arrived by the China steamer last night and gave me a full 
 account of the expedition of Commodore Perry to Japan, which 
 I will not repeat as you will doubtless see a fuller one in the 
 papers from Bayard Taylor, who accompanied the expedition, 
 and from the officers. "We have a number of passengers who 
 have returned from Australia with trunks of gold. 
 
 Sept. 19, Penang. — We came in at eight. At ten I was ashore 
 and breakfasting with Mr. C ; after which I saw the cap- 
 tain of a Bremen ship of 525 tons. She is said to be a good 
 sailer, and on the 21st we shall start in her for Calcutta. 
 
 Several of the American ships here have, besides their cap- 
 tains, their wives on board — an arrangement which many of the 
 shipowners prefer, as they say their masters are more steady and 
 attentive to their duties and the interests of ship and owners. 
 
 I got some preserved sea-weed to-day to send home as a curi- 
 osity for you to try, it is made by the Chinese. 
 
 Besides two Penang lawyers. Every case must have a " pro 
 and con." They are a peculiar and beautiful kind of cane that 
 is found here, with a large knob on the head, which unfor- 
 tunately settles cases without the privilege of appeal, which 
 would end the case too soon to suit the lawyers I am accustomed 
 to seeing. 
 
 To-day I have been amusing myself making sketches of the 
 place and reading up American news in the papers. This even- 
 ing took a walk on the "jetty" — the favorite promenade for the 
 *' beauty and fashion" — about six women and twenty men, mer- 
 chants and officers. 
 
 Sept. 20. — This morning had a long drive to see the wild 
 
304 FEOM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 scenery of this place, then " practised shop," drew a " will" for 
 
 T , providing for that wife and child who have caused so 
 
 many groans and sighs from my disconsolate friend. 
 
 Sept. 23, At Sea, Ship Aeistides. — Day before yesterday we 
 
 all got off. I have two fellow-passengers, one a Captain G 
 
 from the Madras Presidency, the other an indigo planter from 
 the Bengal Presidenc}^ One has just returned from Australia, 
 the other from New Zealand. The ship does not promise very 
 much for comfort. She has only three cabins, and my accom- 
 modation is a bunk in the saloon, which the Captain and car- 
 penter have got up, draped with a variety of flags. The chickens 
 and ducks enjoy the largest liberty on the decks, except some 
 caged Shanghae chanticleers, who " wear away dull time" crow- 
 ing defiance at each other. We have one other pet or plague — 
 a spaniel, who wanders about the deck frightening chickens and 
 cat. In the brief interludes of sunshine, between wind squalls 
 and showers, the mate has been amusing himself since we started 
 in trying to stuff a refractory goose. To-day he was rewarded 
 by an egg. 
 
 Oct. 7, EiVER HooGLY. — We have had a disagreeable voyage 
 thus far, an almost hourly succession of storms and squalls night 
 and day ; at times terribly rough, and it was only owing to good 
 management that our dinners and other meals were not sent 
 flying about the cabin, and we after them. We are all good 
 sailors, so we showed no vacancies at table. 
 
 Our tea is the funniest style of a " brew." On starting from 
 Bremen, " long time ago," they began with a fresh tea-pot, and 
 at every successive breakfast and tea a fresh quantity of tea was 
 added without removing the old, until the pot held more tea than 
 water, and then the steward, or cabin boy, who acts in that 
 double capacity, removed a little of the old tea, and so continued 
 on removing daily a little as he put some more in. So imagine, 
 if you can, what our tea is like. 
 
 Last night we took a pilot aboard. Their pilot-boats are fine 
 
Sketclied by the Author. 
 
 BATAVIA STIIKKT J^I'IilNKLKR. 
 
 See page 2S4. 
 
DIAMOND HAEBOR. 305 
 
 brigs of about 220 tons. The pilots are bigblj paid, and awful 
 " swells," Whj they even sport a uniform. In writing, I hap- 
 pened to look up and saw the first officer allowing a newly 
 hatched chicken feed off of his tongue. He is especially fond of 
 pets, though he has given up torturing the goose. The hens lay 
 in his bed, and to-day one hatched there. 
 
 The river is very wide at the mouth, too much so to see land 
 from where we are, and the channel is only marked out by 
 buoys. The steamer Bentick for Suez, passed us this morning. 
 At two to-day we anchored in Kedgeree Koads, as the tide 
 changed. The current runs rapidly, and too strong for us to 
 stem, added to a tide against us with only moderate wind. The 
 river is about eight miles wide here. There is a boat load of 
 natives alongside, hooting and yelling for employment. 
 
 Oct. Sth, Diamond Harbor. — Several ships passed us to-day 
 going down. Shortly after we passed Sanger, where the com- 
 pany's ships anchored before the days of steamers; also Sanger 
 Island, a sacred place among the Hindoos, where they formerly 
 drowned their children ; and now they meet here in thousands 
 every year to bathe. They always follow the old course of the 
 river, even where it has changed its bed. They are regular con- 
 servatives. 
 
 Shortly after anchoring, a custom-house officer came aboard 
 and is to remain till we reach the city. Some ship suppliers 
 called sircars, came up and with a pertinacity rivalling that of 
 a Yankee pedlar. 
 
 The tide in the river rises very high, and the current runs with 
 the tide now, about five miles an hour — in the summer nine 
 miles. The weather is terribly warm ! Thermometer 98° in the 
 shade at five o'clock ! 
 
 For want of amusement, we get up an occasional race on the 
 river between the native boats; and this afternoon had some 
 little boys of nine or ten aboard, giving us specimens of Hin- 
 dostanee writing on the deck with chalk. 
 
 20 
 
306 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 Oct. ll^A, Calcutta. — This being the fifth day of our creeping 
 up the river, one of my fellow-passengers and I, stopped a return- 
 ing tow-boat, and got a passage to the city. The river narrows 
 in approaching the town, and the country, though level, is very 
 wild, the shores being bordered with dense jungle. 
 
 About fifteen miles below the city, I saw the first signs of 
 civilization, a European (English) house, a cotton factory and 
 distillery; and a few miles above, two others. Then "Garden 
 Eeach" here is the Botanical Garden, and just above Bishop's 
 College, — an institution for preparing young men for "the 
 Church." 
 
 Calcutta now appeared in the distance. As it was nine in the 
 evening it was only visible from its numerous lamps. About 
 four miles distant, we passed many ships lying in the stream, 
 and in another hour we were anchored. The tide and current 
 being so strong we have made little progress. One time to-day 
 we anchored for three hours, till the tide changed, and even then 
 the current of the river was so strong that for half-an-hour the 
 wheels revolved with a full head of steam on without our movinsf, 
 ,(we were towing up a ship). 
 
 On landing, we found no Coolies, but two palanquins — so we 
 ;put our luggage in them, and walked to the Hotel. It was full 
 with the exception of two oven-like rooms, which we took pos- 
 session of, as the best we could do. To avoid suffocation, I have 
 engaged two men to pull my punka all night. 
 
 This morning on opening my doors and windows, I was regu- 
 larly beset by barbers and pedlars. The former all insisting I 
 must have my hair cut and be shaved, and they were so nume- 
 •jous, I almost feared if I had allowed it, they would not have had 
 a chance for a hair apiece. The pedlars were equally anxious to 
 replenish my wardrobe. 
 
 My Hindostanee has got so rusty I am lost in this land of 
 strange tongues, so I asked the landlord to get me a servant. He 
 shortly appeared with one who looked as if he had been drawn 
 out to the greatest length and smallest breadth — a sort of defini- 
 
HINDOO AND MUSSULMAN HOLIDAYS. 807 
 
 tion of a straight line, but from necessity I had to take him. 
 Then went in to breakfast ; the man leaving at the door, said the 
 servants of the Hotel always waited on the gentlemen, and I in 
 my innocence, never suspecting it was because he was a low caste 
 Hindoo, as I had always had Mahommedans before. So took 
 my seat, and nearly lost my breakfast, for I could not get one even 
 to look at me, though I growled at every one who approached. 
 So I seized the dishes nearest me, and got a breakfast the best 
 way I could, and afterwards found I had been growling at other 
 people's servants — so I made a further application at the office, 
 and now am to have another, a Mussulman who is to wait 
 upon me at table, while the other attends to his particular 
 duties. 
 
 After breakfast I went to Messrs. G & Co., my bank- 
 ers; but as this is the midst of the Hindoo and Mussulman 
 holidays, and as all business is suspended, they were closed; 
 for when the natives wont work, the Europeans are forced to stop 
 
 also. I called on ^Ir. A , a prominent merchant, to whom 
 
 I had a letter from Mr, F , and another to his wife from 
 
 Mrs. S at Macao ; then upon the other gentlemen to whom 
 
 I had letters, and a fourth. Major B , a friend of Mr. 
 
 F , to whom I had a very particular letter. He unfor- 
 tunately had gone to the Neilgherries for his health. I regretted 
 very much not seeing him, as he is most familiar with the parts 
 of the country I wish to visit, and would thus have assisted me 
 
 much in my tour. I then looked for a brother of Mr. T 
 
 without success ; but my good luck did not quite desert me, for 
 
 I found that Colonel Low, to whom Capt. "W gave 
 
 me a particular letter, had been raised from Resident at Hyder- 
 abad to the Supreme Council, and is now stopping at the hotel, 
 
 having only just moved here. This afternoon Messrs. G 
 
 & Co.'s clerk brought me two letters from the United States and 
 another from Mr. F , dated Bombay. 
 
 Oct. 13. — Mr. A took me to-day to the Asiatic Society 
 
308 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 rooms, which were founded by Sir Wilham Jones in "Warren 
 Hastings' time, and are principally devoted to natural history. 
 There are original paintings by old masters, how they came no 
 one knows. Also portraits of many of the distinguished Indian 
 ojB&cers, civil and military ; and a copy of the Taj Mahal at Agra. 
 The Pyadassee stone containing the edict relative to religious 
 observances, and forbidding the sacrifice of animals, estabhshed 
 and proclaimed by stone tablets in various parts of India three 
 centuries before Christ, and translated by James Princeps, thus 
 establishing his fame. Fine skeletons of elephants and other 
 animals, and various curious fish. Also a flexible sandstone 
 that bends hke a thin board, though it is two inches thick ; cele- 
 brated swords and curious armor. "We visited the Governor 
 G-eneral's Palace. In the council room I saw a fine portrait of 
 "Warren Hastings, and several others of the Governors-General. 
 The building is very large and square, with a wing at each of the 
 four corners. It is quite imposing and situated at one end of the 
 city facing the esplanade or maidan. From this to the Metcalf 
 Hall, to introduce me for the benefit of the papers and books. 
 On our way we jDassed the site of the Black Hole massacre in 
 
 Tank Square. Mr. A then left me at the hotel with an 
 
 invitation to dine with him on Sunday. 
 
 I then sent for a Moonshee to regularly teach me Hindostanee, 
 and commenced with a lesson of two hours, and a dozen more 
 like doses to be taken one every day that I remain here. All 
 servants who have any pretension to honesty are supposed to be 
 ignorant of English. If it is known they understand it, they are 
 apt to lose their places. 
 
 The Hindoos had grand processions this afternoon. They 
 wander around the city with a number of figures or images, 
 which, after making a circuit of the town, feted, and "chin chind," 
 as a (Chinaman would say, they are marched down by the pro- 
 cession to the river, where they are carried out some distance in 
 a boat, and then thrown overboard to float off. During all these 
 ceremonies horns and drums discourse their sweetest music. 
 
A MAHOMMEDAN RECEPTION. 309 
 
 I saw one take a tumble and kiss the ground in his circuit. 
 They generally consist of a centre figure, two smaller side ones, 
 and tigers below. 
 
 Oct 14. — I was ofl" early this morning to see a procession of 
 Mahommedans, the anniversary of the death of Hassein and 
 Hossein, the sons of Ali and grandsons of the Prophet. It 
 occupied a space of nearly a mile in length. On either side of 
 the street were flagbearers about ten feet apart, each with a cord 
 fastened to his staff, and the cords continued without intermission 
 the entire length of the procession, thus preventing it being 
 broken. Inside were occasional bodies of police to preserve 
 order. Each of these flagstaflfs had a very richly embroidered 
 crimson flag hke my Persian table-cloth. Then in the centre of 
 the procession, were over a hundred large Cashmere shawls 
 wound around the flagstaflfs ; then others of expensive silks 
 heavily and richly embroidered with gold and silver thread. 
 Several horses with their housings covered with arrows as if 
 wounded. Then a coflfin borne on the shoulders of Coolies. 
 
 This is one of several that are got up by the wealthy Mus- 
 sulmen Baboos, or money-lenders. These people supply the 
 bankers, pay their bills, and everything of that kind in the way 
 of business ; their remuneration being three per cent, deduction 
 from the money paid, which comes out of the pocket of one or 
 both parties. 
 
 This afternoon Messrs. G & Co.'s clerk sent me my 
 
 missing luggage, containing my Arab dress. Palmyra sculpture 
 in marble, rifle, gun, clothes, books, and shells ; such a looking 
 place as my room is, with all these, and about a hundred other 
 varieties that I wont trouble you with a catalogue of. 
 
 After overhauling this medley of travelling valuables, I suf- 
 fered an infliction of two hours in Hindostanee under my smiling 
 moonshee. I then set out for a drive on the " course." This is 
 the only drive the people here take, in fact their sole amusement. 
 It is mostly along the bank of the Hoogly, though it extends 
 
310 FEOM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 some distance in the rear, forming a circuit of tHe esplanade or 
 course, I saw some fine horses and equipages. To-day I called 
 to present my letter to Colonel Low, unfortunately lie was out. 
 They only have about an hour and a half for visiting, and the 
 consequence is you rarely find any one at home. 
 
 Oct. loth. — Last evening the Aristides (my ship from Penang) 
 arrived with my heavy luggage. Early this morning I drove 
 out to Fort "William, situated a short distance below the city 
 which is on the eastern bank of the river. The fort is on a wide 
 esplanade, or maidan, as it is termed by the natives. Its building 
 was commenced in 1757 during Lord Olive's government, and 
 very shortly after the battle of Plassey, and is the headquarters 
 of English power in India. It is built after Yauban's celebrated 
 fortress of Lisle, at a cost of $10,000,000, and is one of the 
 largest and strongest fortresses in the world mounting over six 
 hundred guns, from 12's to 32 's, and nearly four hundred mor- 
 tars. Its arrangements for arms and ammunition are very 
 extensive; it contains about 60,000 stand of fire and some 
 20,000 side arms, with accommodations for 5,000 barrels of gun- 
 powder, and balls and shells by the million. All its casements 
 are bomb proof, the works are so extensive, military men say they 
 would require 10,000 men to man them. There are two or three 
 other depots for powder near Calcutta besides the fort. One or 
 two regiments are always stationed at the fort. 
 
 The city presents a singular though fine appearance from the 
 fort, with its domes, spires, minarets, and towers. On the one 
 side the beautiful residences of the highly paid employes of the 
 government, and of the merchants ; while on the other the nume- 
 rous shipping, the channels of their wealth ; and below the fort, 
 along the river for several miles, pretty country residences, and 
 if not the most picturesque city in the East, is certainly the most 
 imposing. The European part has wide, clean streets, fine shops 
 with all the comfoi'ts of civilized life one could find in London 
 or Paris. In the esplanade, but especially about the Governor- 
 
Sketclii'd by the Author. 
 
 DAK TKAYKLLING IN IJEXUAL. 
 
 See page 822. 
 
COLONEL LOW. 811 
 
 General's house, are great numbers of adjutants (birds) stalking 
 along with grave and dignified pace. At night thej roost on the 
 balustrade around the house. Last night being a full moon and 
 verj light I counted ninety there. 
 
 This afternoon drove down to Garden Eeach and crossed in a 
 boat to the Botanical Garden, extensive and well kept, but no 
 great affair in its line, being as yet in an incipient state. Its 
 principal attraction being a banyan tree covering a space from 
 125 to 150 feet in diameter, the body from 15 to 18 feet in cir- 
 cumference. Then recrossed. the river which is here about a 
 third of a mile wide, and in the boat heard of the defeat of the 
 Sylvie at the Cowes regatta. This evening some more letters, you 
 appear to be having a very gay time. 
 
 Oct. IQtli. — To-day church. The large congregation seemed 
 quite like civilized regions again. This afternoon to Mr. 
 A 's to dinner, rather an English day for company din- 
 ners. There were ten at table, and had a pleasant visit. After- 
 wards his partner, Mr. B from Boston, took me out in his 
 
 cab for an evening drive, the other people all going off in their 
 conveyances for the same. From the number of fine equipages 
 I met, I suppose it's quite "the mode" to drive Sunday after- 
 noon. 
 
 i ■ 
 
 Oct. 17. — I hear the Chinese rebels have captured Shanghae. 
 To-day I had a visit from Colonel Low who appears to be a very 
 nice person. He has filled nearly every position within the gift 
 of the Indian Government, and risiag almost entirely by his own 
 merit. He has been many years in India, and now in much 
 affliction from the recent death of a favorite dauo-hter. He was 
 at the celebrated battle of Assaye, fought by the Duke of Wel- 
 lington, and was the first to discover the native forces. When the 
 army arrived at the camping ground for the day, he galloped off 
 to a hill for a view while the tents were being put up, when he 
 saw the whole army of the native chief they were marching after 
 
312 FKOM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 to figlit, encamped in the plain below — tlie battle was fought by 
 the Duke that afternoon — and won as you know. He says I am 
 too late to go to Cashmere, and my next place Barmah, is "all 
 up," as the country is in such a disturbed state. As for Nepaul, 
 
 Colonel L says it cannot be done, for the two-fold reason, 
 
 it is most dangerous to go there now, the fevers are so prevalent ; 
 next, like the Chinese, they are suspicious of strangers, and by 
 the treaty they stipulated they were not to have visitors, and 
 when a party is admitted it is by great favor, and long negotia- 
 tion, so that is off; but that he will think of some plans for me. 
 At Peshawur, the extreme northwest, they apprehend difiiculties. 
 Colonel Mackinson was assassinated a few weeks ago, and it is 
 supposed at the instigation of Dost Mahommed, and a general 
 plot has been discovered to murder all high in authority there. 
 So I fear I cannot go higher north than Lahore, Eunjeet Singh's 
 capital, and then down to Gwalior through the Eajpootana states 
 to Bombay, then westward ho ! how on to Europe I can't say, as 
 that will depend on circumstances. 
 
 Oct. 18. — This morning I received a note from Colonel Low 
 (who was the former Resident at Oude) containing a letter of 
 introduction to Colonel Sleeman the present Eesident, with 
 •directions and advice about my wanderings. I have bought a 
 large and very minute travelling map of India; and at the Burra 
 •or great bazaar I wandered through its labyrinthine mazes seeing 
 •"kin-kobs" (very heavy gold embroidered cloth), pearls and 
 Dacca muslin, none of which were verv fine. 
 
 The Dacca muslin of superior quality is exceedingly rare now, 
 rand only made to order. It is from eight to ten dollars a yard, 
 :and so fine that when wet and laid on the grass it is almost 
 invisible. Formerly it was much used by the Indian ladies — 
 now they patronize Paris more, and the fabrics, if not so beautiful, 
 are more "a la mode." "Kin-kobs" arc made at Benares, so 
 will have a better chance of seeing or buying them, and the 
 pearls are superior at Bombay. I therefore contented myself 
 
TRANSIT COACHES. 313 
 
 witli an investment in beautiful carved and inlaid boxes of sandal 
 wood or ivory, native vehicles, etc., of a peculiar style, only made 
 in India by the natives, these come from Moorshedabad, the ancient 
 capital of Bengal. The Nawaub lives there still, but a pension- 
 ary of the East India Company. 
 
 On my return home found Mr. T the brother of my 
 
 Singapore friend, who said his brother had arrived, was staying 
 at his house and he wished me to go home and dine with them, 
 which I did. He and another bachelor friend are keeping house 
 near Garden Beach. I also met a Frenchman whom I had seen 
 at Singapore, he was from Akab on the Burmah coast. 
 
 Oct. 19. — To-day engaged a transit coach to Patna for Monday 
 next. These transit coaches are veliicles with bodies about seven 
 feet long, four high, and three wide, opening on each side, under 
 the centre a well for small carpet bags, at the front end inside a 
 shelf for books and such provision as one wishes for lunch, &c., 
 around the top a rail, where the servant sits surrounded by a 
 fortification of trunks, bags, etc., and is supposed to gurgle his 
 " hubble bubble " all day. The driver sits on a box in front and 
 drives or coaxes his horse, for I'm told they are an awful baulky 
 set. 
 
 I called on Mr. and Mrs. A-; . In walking throu2:h the 
 
 bazaars, I was nearly run over by a great swaggering Baboo, 
 who rolled along in his gossamer robes, looking as etherial as a 
 cloud, but feeling as bulky as an elephant. 
 
 Oct. 20th. — By daylight I was off for a view from the Ochter- 
 lony Monument, 160 feet high. It is erected in the esplanade, 
 in honor of General Ochterlony, who was much distinguished 
 during the ISTepaulese war. From this there is an admirable 
 view of Calcutta, the river, and country. For miles around the 
 land is as level as the esplanade. 
 
 Then to the house of a very wealthy native Baboo, or money 
 changer, inflicted with the most aristocratic name of Kajah 
 
314 FKOil WALL STREET TO CASHMERE, 
 
 Buddinots. It is very large, situated in a small plot of ground, 
 or compound, as they call the ground around a house in India. 
 Here giraffes, deer, and various kinds of birds, including grave- 
 looking adjutants, wander. At both ends of the house and in 
 the ground, are great numbers of cages with birds and beasts ; 
 of the former, I believe, a specimen of almost every kind that 
 breathes. The house is mostly in the European style, large and 
 commodious. His courtesy in exhibiting it is sadly abused, if 
 the visitors I saw, with their loud and vulgar remarks and criti- 
 cisms, were fair specimens. 
 
 After breakfast I went to Mr. A 's by appointment, to 
 
 see the mint, which, I am informed, after that at St. Petersburg, 
 is the largest in the world. Unfortunately they were repairing 
 a part of the works, and I only saw a small portion of it in ope- 
 ration, but enough to show the perfect manner in which it 
 performed. There is an immensity of detail, and much of it 
 most ingenious, as every coin passes through so many processes. 
 It has so happened I have never visited a mint before, and have 
 thus commenced at the top of the list. When in full operation, 
 they coin 800,000 rupees and 350,000 annas (a copper coin) 
 in a day. 
 
 As silver and copper are the only coin seen in India, there is 
 
 a great demand for them. Mr. A gave me a letter of 
 
 introduction from Mrs. A to Mr. F , her brother, 
 
 who is deputy commissioner at Lahore, and has written to him 
 to inform me if I shall be able to go to Cashmere, and all about 
 it, as he has lately returned from there. So if any one wants a 
 few Cashmere shawls speak quick. 
 
 Od. 2l6/. — I am progressing famously with Hindostanee. 
 Two-hour doses with hard study work wonders. I think I shall 
 apply for a professorship before long. 
 
 At the horse bazaar to-day, I saw some one being " done ;" horse 
 jockeys are the same everywhere. It is rather late in the season 
 for the Arabs, so did not see many good ones. Then to our 
 
WONDERFUL CATERPILLARS, 315 
 
 consul's, Mr. H , an intelligent person. He has been consul 
 
 here for twenty-five years, and so mucli liked, lie was appointed 
 one of tlie three commisioners from India to the London Exhi- 
 bition in 1851. 
 
 He showed me some caterpillars he had received from a friend 
 in New Zealand. They are a peculiar kind, and at a certain 
 stage in their existence, the germ of a tree sprouts from the 
 middle of their back, and shoots after the caterpillar becomes 
 stationary ; and the tree absorbs the body, takes root, and even- 
 tually forms one of their largest forest trees. He had six or 
 seven, and has promised to send me one. This fact, extraordinary 
 as it may seem to the reader, was fully corroborated in a conver- 
 sation the author had in 1854, with Tyrone Power, Esq., son of 
 the distinguished comedian of that name, who was lost in the 
 ill-fated President, and whom the author met returning from the 
 Cape of Good Hope, in the suite of the late General Sir George 
 Cathcart. Mr. Power was for a long time stationed in New 
 Zealand, and wrote a book on the Island. Then to Mr. 
 
 T 's store ; met an American merchant, a Mr, L , 
 
 who lives here. He invited me to meet a party of friends to 
 
 dine at his house to morrow evening. While at T 's ofiice, a 
 
 man came in with some handsome pineapple-cloth handkerchiefs, 
 sleeves, etc., beautifully embroidered ; I purchased a number. 
 
 Oct. 22cl. — I began to pack up again this morning, and put 
 away 124 sketches, besides a number I shall keep with me ; and 
 as you already have one or two books full, you'll think I am 
 
 industrious. Then with T to look at some Cashmere 
 
 shawls ; the man had some very handsome ones for 600 rupees, 
 which would bring about $800 in New York, the profit from 
 here being about three hundred per cent. Then went to bid all 
 my friends* good-bye. 
 
 To-day looked in at Cook's famous Arab stables, where he 
 generally has several thousand horses, mostly Arabs. Then did 
 up shopping supplies for my tour. I saw four men carrying a 
 
316 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 large stone on their heads, one man, being shorter than the rest, 
 made up the diiBference of height by a brick under the stone ! 
 I've often heard of people being elevated by " a brick in the 
 hat," but never from a brick on the head. 
 
 Calcutta has a large number of religious, scientific, literary, 
 and charitable institutions, besides banks, insurance companies, 
 courts, masonic lodges, and other evidences of a prosperous 
 people. They have a medical college, established in 1834 by 
 Lord William Bentinck, one of the Governors-General. Here 
 natives are taught, and become useful as assistants in the various 
 stations. 
 
 From their great horror of touching a dead body, the natives 
 were at first unwilling to practise dissecting ; but many have 
 now overcome this prejudice, and go regularly through the 
 course. There is a new class of Bengalees springing up, called 
 " Young Bengal," who, unfortunately, imitate only the bad traits 
 of the English. 
 
 The native servants in Madras sometimes sav, when asked 
 what religion they are, "Oh! I'm master's religion." "What 
 do you mean by master's religion?" " Oh ! I swear and drink 
 brandy pawny " (brandy and water). It is rather a slander to 
 say the masters' religion is to drink brandy and swear. They 
 do drink in India more than the hot climate warrants, but mostly 
 "pale ale" now. Though brandy at one time was drank a great 
 deal, the swearing part is decidedly untrue. I have very rarely 
 heard an English gentleman use profane language. It marks 
 the gentleman as much with them as with us. Even more so ; 
 for our young Americans are very apt, in the absence of size or 
 ability to raise a moustache, to try and make themselves promi- 
 nent by sir-ong expressions. 
 
 Many of the shops are large, and even elegant for ladies' toilets, 
 in laces, silks, etc., or in the matter of jewelry. Some of the large 
 London houses have branch establishments here, Calcutta having 
 quite a numerous resident European population, who are here 
 solely to make money, and not for their health, as shopkeepers 
 
SPORTS IN INDIA. 317 
 
 say wlien you complain of their asking one or two hundred per 
 cent, profit on their wares. 
 
 The commerce of Calcutta is large, the import amounting to 
 about $26,000,000, and of export $50,000,000 ; whereas Bombay 
 has much less, and her exports and imports are about the same, 
 $20,000,000; and Madras only imports $4,000,000 and exports 
 $8,000,000. 
 
 Our consul told me that since California was opened our trade 
 with India, and especially Calcutta, had been rapidly increasing, 
 being for the last year ninety-seven ships. The native population 
 of Calcutta is between 600,000 and 700,000. Though the Eng- 
 lish all feel that living in this country is a most complete exile, 
 they try to keep up a resemblance to home in their sports, and 
 have races and hunts ; for the latter, in the scarcity of foxes sub- 
 stitute jackals. They have their hunting meets for the Calcutta 
 sportsmen about eight miles from the city, and like their other 
 out-door exercises, it is nearly or quite finished for the day by 
 the time foxhunters in England are coming in to the meet. 
 
 The little Arab makes up by his endurance and activity for 
 his want of bone and size, which do not tell so much in this 
 country, in the absence of fences, ploughed fields, and park walls. 
 While in the interior they have their "pig-sticking" (boar- 
 hunting), which is done on horseback also. The great obstacle 
 to jackal-hunting, this substitute for foxhunting, is with the 
 dogs, who, like their masters, will get the liver complaint though 
 not of their "masters' religion." The government has endea- 
 vored, at different times, to breed horses for army and other 
 purposes, and for that object has had establishments in various 
 parts of the country, but without attaining the desired end of size, 
 quality, and cheapness, although they have made the experiment 
 with English, Australian, Arab, and native horses. 
 
 About seven miles from Calcutta is Dum Dum, the artillery 
 headquarters of this Presidency. Thirteen miles further is 
 Barrackpore, the infantry station and headquarters. In 1832, at 
 Cassipore, four miles from Calcutta, a foundry for brass ordnance 
 
318 FRO:\I WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 was established, where they now make all that is required for 
 their army. 
 
 I have before alluded to the enormous pay of Indian officials, 
 and while in Calcutta, the centre of the highest pay, I will speak 
 of a few of those offices here. The Governor-General is ap- 
 pointed for five years, he receives £25,000 a year, which, with 
 allowances of various kinds, I am informed, increase it to 
 £70,000. Each of the members of the Supreme Council have 
 £10,000, with the privilege of sending their money to England 
 at enormous profits in exchange allowed to them. The Com- 
 mander-in-Chief also has his appointment for five years, his 
 military pay is £8,000 per annum, besides £10,000 as member 
 of the Council, which he can never attend, for his general duties 
 of Commander-in-Chief keep him away from the city. They 
 are always appointed from the Queen's instead of the Company's 
 service, and thus have rarely or never seen service, or had large 
 command before arriving in India, instead of meritorious officers 
 of the Indian service who have had experience. They are 
 appointed from favor rather than merit, hence the various blun- 
 ders in the Seikh wars, and especially at Chillianwallah, which 
 have necessarily been overlooked to preserve the British prestige 
 of universal success in India. 
 
 After the battle of Chillianwallah, Lord Gough, with every 
 requisite as a gallant soldier (but knowledge and experience 
 of general command), blindly marched his army into the very 
 midst of the enemy's chosen fighting ground before he even 
 knew where they were, and then would have been cut to pieces 
 had he not had such admirable English troops to support him. 
 One regiment alone, the gallant 28th Foot, a regiment 800 strong, 
 came out of a fearful charge leaving nearly 500 dead on the 
 ground. This battle originated a series of recriminations that to 
 this day exist in India between the different services, and destroy 
 a harmony that should otherwise exist. After this battle, which 
 was known all over India among the natives in incredible short 
 time, by some mysterious system they have, long before it was 
 
MISSIONARY SUCCESS IN INDIA. 319 
 
 known to tlie Europeans, even as far south as Madras. So great 
 was the wonderment of the natives at the Seikh success and Bri- 
 tish defeat, that they asked their masters in perfect amazement if 
 true. It threw such a gloom over India, the masters often told 
 me, every man in India was ashamed to look his servant in the 
 face until victory turned at Goojerat a few weeks after. 
 
 Sir Charles Napier, I believe, is almost the only instance of a 
 great and successful general sent from England who was not 
 first trained by Indian wars.* 
 
 Now, that the electric telegraph has been introduced, Calcutta 
 will be the centre of instantaneous communication with every 
 part of India, and the Governor-General will be able, in a few 
 years, to converse with every authority under him without 
 mo\ang from his chair. 
 
 Tlie changes in India have been almost as rapid as in our own 
 countrj^ Whole empires have been overthrown by English 
 power, and every few years they have added a province as large 
 as England — often larger. The Deccan, Carnatic, Punjaub, 
 Scinde, Sattara, and Pegu, have been succdfesively conquered 
 and subdued, or quietly annexed ; generally the former. Now 
 they all form a quiet industrious people. Steam and the tele- 
 graph will be the great civilizers of India, while the missionaries 
 keep steady, successful pace in their humble but glorious efforts 
 to Christianize. A difficulty that can only be realized by know- 
 ing the people they have to deal with, and yet how wonderful 
 their success. 
 
 In India and Ceylon there are 22 missionary societies with 
 nearly 450 missionaries, and 112,000 native Christians. They 
 maintain 1,300 day schools, and 93 boarding schools, containing 
 
 * Surely an army that can produce a Olive, Ochterlony, a "Williams of Kars, 
 a Havelock, (who if not an Indian officer, but a Queen's, was Indian by 
 adoption and long service), a Neill, an Outram, Wilson of Delhi, Nicholson, 
 and a host of others, might furnish a competent commander-in-chief; and he, 
 from being brought up in the Indian service, would understand the people 
 and the service which is so entirely different from every other. 
 
320 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 2,400 boys. And the female education — one of tlie greatest of 
 all missionary difficulties to be overcome — embraces 347 day and 
 102 boarding schools, the former with over 1,100, and the latter 
 with nearly 3,000 scholars. 
 
 The entire Bible has been translated into ten languages, the 
 New Testament into j'lfe others, separate gospels mio four others, 
 and 70 tracts have been prepared in these different languages, 
 suitable for Hindoos and Mussulmans. The missionaries main- 
 tain in India twenty-five printing presses. 
 
 The reigning sovereign of Travancore (Southern India), a high 
 caste and orthodox Hindoo — has the Bible read in all the schools 
 in his dominions. 
 
 Oct. 23. — To-day to church, this afternoon at the Cathedral, 
 where we had the Bishop, assisted by four clergymen. The 
 building looks most curious, like a railway depot with the vari- 
 ous contrivances of beams and cross-beams, supporters, and 
 props. This evening my travelling servant has appeared with 
 all his "toggery."^ The natives dread going north as much as 
 if the polar regions lay only a few miles distant, and we were 
 going there for a winter. He has left me about half-a-dozen 
 times to go home to bid his father, his mother, his sister, and his 
 little brother good-bye, besides his wife and all her responsi- 
 bilities. 
 
 Oct. 24. — Having left my box of collections with my banker 
 to send home, I was off in my transit carriage this morning 
 early. The suburbs of the city are peopled by natives, living in 
 long ranges of dilapidated houses. Then on passing Barrackpore 
 where the Governor-General has a country residence, there were 
 110 elephants feeding, they are kept at government expense for 
 military purposes. Barrackpore is celebrated for a massacre that 
 took place some years ago, owing to the proposed change in the 
 Sepoys' hats, the uniform, and to drop their caste marks. After 
 this crossed the Ganges, and through the small village of Chan- 
 dernagore, the French settlement, which is very neat. 
 
TRAVELLING UP COUNTRY. 321 
 
 On driving along I saw some pretty women. The military 
 consist of 25 Sepoys. Then Scrampore, a small Danish settle- 
 ment. Then on a few miles further, with awfully balky horses, 
 through a country rather thickly settled. I passed parts of the 
 new railway in a state of forwardness, and stopped at Pundooah 
 Bungalow at half-past three, where I had breakfast and dinner 
 in one meal. As I was finishing an old Indian drove up, and I 
 see him under the verandah smoking his hookah, doubtless 
 wishing me gone, as I have the only good room. 
 
 Oct. 25, Saldangah Bungalow. — Off last night at five, the 
 horsesbeingof the same balky disposition, their occasional freaks 
 and the consequent gyrations of the carriage often awakening 
 me, prudence induced me several times to push open the sliding 
 doors, as an upset with closed doors that would only open by 
 main force, would have been disagreeable. The night was warm, 
 but I'm happy to say my bed was comfortable, and I enjoyed 
 the repose. 
 
 This morning at Khyrasoole bungalow a cup of tea, and 
 capital "moorghie grill" (broiled chicken), and various other nice 
 preparations, were " tired nature's sweet restorer," besides an 
 old volume of the Illustrated London News to improve my 
 mind with in the spare moments ; luxurious for a poor traveller, 
 was it not? 
 
 This afternoon the journey has been over a more hilly country. 
 Hitherto an almost perfect level, varied only by such slight 
 elevations as would scarce aspire to the name of hillocks. I 
 crossed some very shaky wire bridges. I noticed one steadied 
 with a small cord — a durable fastening. 
 
 At five this afternoon I stopped at this bungalow, where I 
 tound the greater part occupied by what I suppose are milliners, 
 or equally elevated personages, and the piazza filled with tele- 
 graph wire. I beg pardon of the parties for nearly omitting 
 the only wayfarers I saw — a gentleman with an incipient mous- 
 tache, and a lady with very pretty white hand and rings. They 
 
 21 
 
322 fro:m wall street to cashmere. 
 
 were going up country in a buggy (what we call gig) drawn by 
 Coolies. I did not see her face, tbougli I boldly sliowed my 
 rubicund phiz. She was content with peeping at me from behind 
 the curtain. I also passed near some Hindoo towers which are 
 curious affairs. There were four, in pairs, and looked like domes 
 on pedestals. A jackal honored me with a gaze at half pistol 
 shot. In the distance I saw some tall white chimneys. 
 
 Oct. 2Gthj BuGGHODEN Bungalow, — I was off again last night 
 at seven. I found this morning, in my disturbed dreams, I had 
 disposed of a slipper, and my Hindostanee dictionary — one 
 useful, and the other very necessary at present. But my philo- 
 sophy overcame my grief, and I'm quite tranquil. Almost every 
 hour during the night I was woke by "Sahib," "Sahib," 
 "bucksheesh," by Coolies or sices (horsekeepers), according as 
 we stopped for hills, for not a bit of uphill work vrould the 
 horses do, or when we had changed horses. 
 
 Then had a "bit of a row" between the coachman, the sices, 
 and Coolies. I tried to get an insight into the business, and 
 they obligingly endeavored to condense the story, each giving his 
 own account at the same time ; and as my Hindostanee was very 
 limited under the most favorable circumstances; as the united 
 efforts of this frantic crowd had not succeeded in waking up my 
 Khansamar (the Bengalee for butler), I tried my luck in rousing 
 him from his gentle slumbers and downy couch on the transit 
 coach top, surrounded by a battlement of trunks, bags, pans, 
 and kettles. After a quarter of an hour more of this Babel, he 
 commenced — not exactly "fellow-citizens" but — "Sahib — he — 
 other sice — coachmen — they all be too muchee humbug — sick 
 horse — ho talky — chota — no strong — he, all other men bad — 
 they no go." So interrupting him in the midst of this lucid 
 explanation, told him to go to bed again, and seeing no possi- 
 bility of solving or settling the matter, I turned over and went 
 to sleep, leaving them to go on or not as they pleased. I always 
 have to do my own Hindostanee in the night-time, and in the 
 
AN ARAB VILLAGE. 823 
 
 excitement of tlie moment, I suppose I made a fanny jum]}le 
 of it. 
 
 This morning the country is hilly and picturesque, watered by 
 numerous small streams that lend a beauty to the landscape. 
 Passed an Arab village ; it's singular how these people retain 
 their national features, and customs wherever they go. Their 
 bright flashing eyes and stern look were the same here as in the 
 desert, and every man wore a sword the same as there. The 
 soil is now poorer and less cultivated. 
 
 At tlie bungalow this evening, I found a rara avis in these 
 regions — a Madras butler ; he had been all through the Punjaub 
 campaigns. 
 
 Oct. 21th, GiAGA. — Crossed at daybreak this morning the 
 Kossyola river, by a long stone bridge, and then a transit coach 
 on its way to Calcutta with two ladies — one quite pretty. At 
 half-past eight this evening, I turned off for this place and Patna, 
 which are off the regular route, and so was obliged to take 
 Coolies to drag the coach, instead of horses. The roads were 
 horrible, and the country poor and flat. Stopping at a bungalow 
 for breakfast, I was on here by four, passing a small Hindoo 
 temple, and a number of water tanks for irrigation. 
 
 This place is quite large. Many of the houses are like small 
 fortresses. As I passed the bungalow of a European, I saw him 
 scanning me with a lorgnette. 
 
 r 
 
 Oct. 2Sih, Patna. — Last night I was off at six again, for I 
 travel all night, and stop twice a day ; an hour in the morning 
 for breakfast, and the same at night for dinner, eating my lunch 
 as I jog along, and thus accomplish an average of about a hun- 
 dred and twenty miles a day. Just as I was starting, a gentle- 
 man and lady taking a drive passed me. I saw a small river 
 skirting the town, and a high hill with a Hindoo temple. The 
 road was horrible, and my men encouraged each other with yells 
 that would have put to the blush a New York fire company in 
 full cry. 
 
824 fro:*! wall street to cash^iere. 
 
 At tlie bungalow I was waited on bj a most obsequious butler, 
 wbo, when I spoke, folded bis bands as reverently as if I bad 
 been Bbudda or Seva bimself I got in at balf-past seven. For 
 miles before it, is a vast rice field, which the owners were water- 
 ing by means of small channels or gutters filled by a swinging 
 canoe, which dipped up and discharged the water as it oscillated. 
 
 Od. 29/A. — I have been wandering through the town this 
 morning. It is one of the wealthiest in India, and the second in 
 rank I believe. Formerly it was much more important. There 
 are as many Mussulmans here as there are Hindoos at Benares. 
 It looks half-deserted and in ruins. I did not see half-a-dozen 
 good houses in it. The mosques and temples are quite fourth- 
 rate. The streets are dirty and narrow, with the exception of 
 one, which is wide and runs the length of the town ; at one end 
 are the bazaars, which are curious, with all sorts of lacquered 
 cups and trifles. One never sees the valuables exposed for sale 
 in Eastern countries, as with us, or in Europe, to attract. Often 
 merchants worth hundreds qf thousands of dollars do all their 
 business in a miserable dirty place, and very likely sitting on 
 the ground. 
 
 This is Cue great opium district, and especially of Bengal. 
 There is a large factory for making it up and packing it to send 
 to China, which must receive it, nolens volens. Their refusing it 
 caused the Chinese war of 1842, for the Indian Government 
 must sell its opium or it cannot exist, even if "John Chinaman" 
 does die from its use; and he should not object, for he will die 
 m his own country, which he always wishes to do, and he will 
 be dying in the cause of humanity, by saving "John Company's" 
 life, a thing "John Company" feels a great interest in preserving. 
 This year they will send away 85,000 chests, and next year 
 40,000 ! and so on increasing. The poppy is brought here, in 
 February or March in pulp, leaf, or stalk, as may be. The pulp 
 IS worked to a certain consistence, and looks like a thick black 
 paste or dough. It is then rolled into large balls eight inches in 
 
DESCRIPTION OF A CURIOUS GIG. 825 
 
 diameter, tlien covered witli a tliin popp}' paste, and over that, 
 a cover of poppy leaves pressed and dried until it is quite tough. 
 When dried, it is rolled in oil paper, and put up in small boxes, 
 one ball in each, for China, It produces a revenue to the govern- 
 ment of over $22,000,000. It all belongs to government, and is 
 raised by them, the natives being paid fixed prices for working 
 it, and the whole under charge of agents. 
 
 On my return to the bungalow, I was annoyed by a drunken 
 fellow who occupied the other part. He first begged me for 
 clothes and money; not giving him any, he tried cursing, not 
 even sparing my relations. 
 
 Fragments of wall indicate the former fortifications of the city, 
 and an occasional large house and garden the establishment of 
 some wealthy native. The city is immediately on the banks of the 
 river, on a point of land. The river (the Ganges) is about three 
 quarters of a m"ile wide here, and half of that space is filled with 
 small islands. The country around is low and void of beauty 
 except to the rice-grower. 
 
 The people drive a curious kind of vehicle, a sort of gig ; it is 
 on two wheels, with wide guards above them. They (the two) 
 scramble in over the wheels, and sit one on each side coiled up, 
 while the driver does the same in front, and almost witli his 
 hands on the horse's back. The horse has a hiijh odd saddle of 
 scarlet cloth, with a horn of the same material in front, w^hich is 
 about eighteen inches high, curving backwards, and ornamented 
 with tinsel. From this saddle go two bands, one around the 
 horse's neck, the other around his body ; and the two shafts or 
 two pair, for on each side are two, one from the lower part of 
 the body and the other from the seat, and mfeeting at the horse's 
 neck, are attached to the saddle so high up, that should he 
 stumble, he would most likely slip out of the shafts. 
 
 In the bazaar I saw them pounding foil, and one shop front 
 was covered with tinfoil. The city appears to consist chiefly of 
 one main avenue or street, with a multitude of minor ones, barely 
 sufficient in width for two donkeys to pass each other. The 
 
826 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 houses are all low and insignificant ; formerly and at present 
 too, I believe, many of the wealthier people dwelt on the 
 river's edge. 
 
 Unable to get a boat, I was obliged to content myself with 
 a terra firma view, which disappointed me in two ways, for, 
 besides the view, I had hoped to have taken a sketch from that 
 side. By far the most odd-looking affair or structure in or about 
 the town, is a beehive-looking granarj'- on the outskirts of the 
 city, and towering above everything else. I think upwards of 
 eighty feet high, and blackened by man or time. There are 
 two flights of stairs on the exterior, leading up from opposite 
 sides. It was erected in 1786 to provide against famine. But 
 whether filled or not the tablet does not state. The probability 
 is against it, from the blank in this part. 
 
 Several Europeans are residing here. They are building a 
 pretty little church. There have been several arrivals and 
 departures from the bungalow this evening. 
 
 Oct. SOlh, DiNAPORE. — As there is no chance of getting a boat 
 for Benares, and the steamer does not stop here, I shall continue 
 on by dak carriage. I came up as far as this by dak, to avoid a 
 very tedious roundabout way the steamer is obliged to take to 
 get into the Ganges from the Hoogly. As I am expecting Mr. 
 
 F 's letter about Cashmere at Allahabad, I must hurry on. 
 
 So I came on to this cantonment, bag and baggage, this morning, 
 trusting to luck for lodgings, as they assured me at the last 
 bungalow, that there was no bungalow or other convenience for 
 travellers. It was a pleasant little drive of six miles, part of the 
 "way a fine avenue of banyan trees. Driving to the post-office, 
 I find they do not expect a steamboat for a week ; then to the 
 steamboat agency where they said the same ; so I engaged a 
 transit coach for to-morrow to Benares. 
 
 I luckily found there was a lodging house, kept by a pro- 
 digiously fat old woman, who had already arranged my things 
 which I had sent on from the post-office, she taking it for granted 
 
UNPROFESSIONAL ADVICE. 327 
 
 I sliould and must be accommodated. The landlady remarked, 
 " The gentlemen were very kind to send you here. I've found 
 it a hard world since my husband died, but thank God I've 
 managed to get along." I thought from her flourishing condi- 
 tion she looks as if matters were thriving, or certainly that care 
 did not weigh heavily on her. She then continued to tell her 
 terms, and the nice accommodations, and what I'd |)lease have 
 for tiffin, dinner, etc. I interrupted her by sundr}^ affirmations, 
 and inquired if there was church. She seemed doubtful, said 
 one service was over, and thought there was another in the 
 evening ; so ordered my dinner earlier, " most decidedly, sir." 
 
 In the midst of my tiffin my sense of dignity was greatly 
 shocked. I, who was looked upon as a "Burra Sahib" at all 
 the bungalows, an engineer, or probably a "Calcutta Sahib" (a 
 collector), or some other civilian (the officers most respected by 
 the natives from having power to j)unish them) of rank, by my 
 landlady coming in and very abruptly asking if I was connected 
 with the law, for I looked so. I was obliged to " own up," and 
 told her I was an American. I soon found I had unfortunately 
 sprung a mine, for she nearly overwhelmed me with a history of 
 her poor dear father, who had " shuffled off this mortal coil " 
 some fifty years before, but had once lived in New York, bore 
 the name of Moncrief, and was of a very, very ancient Scottish 
 family. 
 
 After a long dissertation on their genealogy, she returned to 
 the law, and wanted advice ; so I gave her the best I could, 
 which was to avoid all law if possible. It was unprofessional, I 
 know — but candid. 
 
 In the evening to the church, a fine large one. This place, 
 being the military station of the Behar district, has several regi- 
 ments. To-morrow morning I shall be obliged to retrace my 
 steps some eighty miles, which I regret for the double reason, 
 it will occupy two days longer, and I wished to see one or two 
 places on the river. Below this there is very little of interest, 
 and the sail horribly tedious, occupying sixteen days from Cal- 
 
328 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE, 
 
 cutta by steam, and only two places to be seen, Moorsbaclabad, 
 the former native capital of Bengal, and Mongliyr. About 
 eiglity years ago tlie latter was an important military station. 
 
 Above is Buxar, wliere is one of the principal government 
 studs for raising horses for cavalry, etc., also celebrated for a 
 battle that confirmed the English in possession of Bengal and 
 Behar. Then Ghazeepore, a military station, where is an old 
 palace of the Rajah Cossim Ali, once an Indian notability, and 
 the cenotaph of Lord Cornwallis, and also celebrated for its 
 manufacture of rose water. 
 
 Oct. Zlst^ Neman ADONG Bungaloay. — Packed up and off this 
 morning, but first was entertained by my landlady with the 
 perils from rol^bers, thugs, etc. I greatly relieved her fears by 
 assuring her that part of my luggage consisted of a gun and 
 rifle with a " six-shooter" all ready to present its compliments to 
 such gentr}'. Then jogged on slowly to this place, with nothing 
 except very considerable discomfort from the sun, an infliction 
 you would doubtless willingly consent to about the time you 
 receive this. 
 
 Kov. 2d, SASSERAiE Bungalow. — Yesterday and part of 
 to-day enjoying the slow and noisy travel of a Coolie gang to 
 drag me. At Sheergotty I changed for horses, and five miles 
 an hour instead of two ! Then crossed the Boodia river. At 
 three crossed the Soane, now except the three beds is a sand 
 bank. One of the beds is bare except a few inches of water, 
 another fordable, the third a fervj, the whole taking three hours 
 to cross it though onl}- about a mile and a half wide. 
 
 Near the mouth of this river is supposed to have stood Pali- 
 bothra, the capital of the great king Chandragupta, king of 
 Magadi, who fought a great battle with Seleucus, the most dis- 
 tinguished of the generals of Alexander the Great. Allahabad 
 is supposed by some to have been the place, but certain ruins 
 lately discovered here have settled the question. At seven I 
 
BENAKES. 829 
 
 readied this bungalow, when just as I was preparing to make 
 myself comfortable after the tedious ride, and things in beautiful 
 confusion, when a young officer came in with Mr. Colver's com- 
 pliments (he is the newly -appointed Governor of the Northwest 
 Provinces) and a request that I would join him at dinner in his 
 tent, and that it was all read}'. 
 
 I promptly accepted, and got myself ready in few minutes. 
 
 I found him a pleasant person, as was his aide-de-camp — Lieut. 
 Stewart. The repast consisted of a handsome European dinner 
 and also a handsome native one, a compliment from the Eajah of 
 tlie district to the Governor. After dinner we all started off 
 again, I with horses and to be at Benares to-morrow, the 
 Governor with Coolies and heavy train for the day after. Near 
 this is a fine tomb of Shah Shau — one of the last kings of Ben- 
 gal, Avho drove the Emperor of Delhi from his throne for a short 
 time, and forced him to take refuge in Cashmere, or Afghanistan, 
 I forget which. 
 
 Nov. od, Bexares. — I reached the river at nine. The entire 
 distance to this place, the road has been admirable, made of what 
 they call " kunka." It is graded and this yellow, clayish-looking 
 material is put on, then wet and pounded, and as it becomes hard 
 is as smooth as a floor. I saw almost hourly, people going to 
 market with provisions on horses or oxen. Tall, savage-looking 
 fellows, armed with sword and spear, perhaps the turbulent 
 owners of some small patch of land, and almost bursting with 
 the excess of dignified importance as he swaggered along or 
 caracoled his horse. The dtlk horses are an odd set of ugly 
 brutes — ever}^ one balks: the onl}^ difference is in the number ot 
 times, or length of time it takes to get him off again. I will send 
 you a sketch of " a ballc " with the native manner of starting 
 him off, all shouting " chullo, chullo " (go along), at the top of 
 their lungs. 
 
 The city being on the east bank, had a very fine view, and 
 without exception is the most imposing city I've seen in India. 
 
330 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 Though the chosen seat of Hindooism, the lofty minarets 
 of Anrungzebe's famous mosque, tower conspicuously above 
 every other object. The city forms an unbroken front of fine 
 buildings and ghauts for full four miles on the river's banks, the 
 two being inseparable, the ghauts being the fine flight of steps 
 and terrace for religious bathing, and the buildings, species of 
 massive portals, the whole erected by devotees, or sinners, as a 
 propitiatory offering, as the Catholics have masses said for their 
 souls. 
 
 For so large a town there appear to be very few boats. From 
 the great sanctity of the city, and the importance they attach to 
 bathing in the Ganges here, and the several pilgrimages within a 
 circuit of a few miles, there are great numbers of people coming 
 and going all the time. The estimate is, that at least 20,000 
 arrive daily, and as many more who depart. Most of them make 
 pilgrimages by land, but in all kinds of ways according to what 
 they deem the most penitential. Some measure their distance, 
 that is to say, they lie down at full length, mark the spot where 
 their head reached, and lie down again putting their feet at the 
 last mark, and making a new one where their head reached this 
 time, and so on until they reach the holy city. As this mode of 
 travel is sloiv, it often occupies months. They rest when they 
 get tired or hungry, and marking the spot where they left off, go 
 and eat or sleep. An acquaintance here told me he had seen two 
 men making a pilgrimage this way — one had come 700 miles and 
 then had 400 to go ! the other had come 300 and had as much 
 more to do. 
 
 When I arrived at the river, I found the officials all in "full 
 fig," waiting the arrival of the Governor. I told them he would 
 not arrive till next day. They had been waiting three hours in 
 the hot sun when I came up. They at once started for home 
 without any further news of him. 
 
 On crossing the river, I found a company of irregular cavalry 
 or Siwars also awaiting the Governor's arrival. The officer in 
 command finding that he was not to be here to-day they were 
 
Sketched by the Author. 
 
 CHUNAU FORTIiESS. 
 
 See page 334. 
 
AN ENTERPRISING AMERICAN. 331 
 
 sent to tlieir barracks, and started witb. their horses prancing and 
 plunging, while they sat like statues. All the irregular cavalry 
 are beautiful riders. 
 
 I stopped at the Travellers' Bungalow, and after breakfast not 
 having any letters to deliver here, I drove to Mr. Hall's (the son 
 of a prominent lawyer in Troy, who, after graduating at Harvard 
 University came to Calcutta for his health and was shipwrecked 
 at the mouth of the Hoogly and lost everything, while waiting 
 for remittances from home, and having a most extraordinary 
 talent for languages he learned Hindoo and Persian, then con- 
 cluded to remain and study Sanscrit), His progress was so rapid 
 in that he was persuaded to remain and take a Professor's chair 
 in the new college then being established at Benares, and now is 
 professor of Sanscrit in the college here, with a very widely 
 extended reputation. He has only been in the country seven 
 years, and with a knowledge of five languages of Europe, and the 
 classics to commence with, he has now what he calls a partial 
 knowledge of 22 languages ; but he means by partial, not a criti- 
 cal, but what ordinary persons would call a thorough knowledge. 
 I am told he is the best Sanscrit scholar in India, and perhaps 
 in the world, as they have so much better opportunities of per- 
 fecting themselves here than in Europe. The head of the college 
 
 is so jealous of H 's growing reputation for Sanscrit, and of 
 
 his superior knowledge in that language, that he don't know 
 
 whether to surrender to H or not. H is now in receipt 
 
 of $2,500 per annum and in a few weeks is to have a new appoint-' 
 ment that will double it, with a retiring allowance after eleven 
 years more of service of $2000 per annum — a nice country to 
 work for. 
 
 And now having finished my digression to give you an account 
 of this enterprising countryman of ours, I will proceed. Arriving 
 at his house I sent in my card, and found him a thorousrh Ame- 
 rican in appearance save the moustache, which, as I wear one 
 myself, Pll say nothing about. He received me in a most 
 friendly manner, and insisted upon my removing to his bun- 
 
332 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 galow, and with that drove me to the dak bungalow and ordered 
 my things to his house; where I found him luxuriating in 
 bachelor style, with books, pipes, cats, and dogs ; the first laid 
 where convenience had suited, and the latter wandering about as 
 they chose. In fact everything in what we bachelors term order^ 
 and you ladies, by some singular caprice, designate as disorder — 
 but only a slight misnomer. 
 
 After a long and amusing conversation about Benares, and his 
 occupations of collecting literature for government, compiling 
 other facts for his publication, carrjdng on controversies with 
 Sanscrit scholars at Oxford and Cambridge, editing works, 
 scribbling for newspapers and pamphlets, and sometimes regu- 
 larly editing the paper, studying languages of all sorts and kinds, 
 in flict a dabble in everything, a thorough American turn of 
 mind, we then drove out. He called upon and introduced 
 me to Colonel Lane, one of the most distinguished officers in 
 India. Here I saw Major Ousely, a son of Sir Gore Ousely, who 
 was distinguished for services in Persia some years since ; he is 
 equally distinguished in the sporting way, having been in at the 
 death of 300 tigers. We then continued on to the Deput3'--Col- 
 
 lector's, a friend of K 's, a " country born" or •' half caste," 
 
 who goes in the best society here. Usually in calling upon 
 Europeans, they are obliged to leave their carriages at the gates. 
 We dined here. He seemed a very nice person. Among other 
 amusing things he gave us an account of his first visit to Cal- 
 cutta a few weeks since. The first time he had been in any but 
 
 the up-country towns or cities. Mr. W gave me some 
 
 singular petrifactions found in the Great Gundik Eiver. ISText 
 to his house stands the house wdiere Cherry was massacred in 
 the time of the great Benares insurrection during Warren Has- 
 tino;s' Administration, 
 
 Nov. 4. — To-day the Governor arrived, and all the officials are 
 out to " lick the dust," or " eat dirt," as the natives term official 
 cringing. Hall and I started at daylight for the upper end of 
 
ELEPHANT EXPERIENCE. 333 
 
 the city, wliere wc took a, boat, and floated down past tlie superb 
 ghauts, a most picturesque sight; thousands of people in all 
 colors, costumes, and attitudes, bathing, praying, "doing poojah," 
 meditating (an important feature in their religion) and sipping 
 Ganges water to the four corners of the earth (north, east, south, 
 aud west), and the sun. Others were being shaved, every hair 
 counting millions of years of bliss in another sphere. 
 
 "We then stopped at the ghaut by the " Man Mandul" Obser- 
 vatory, built by Whan Singh. It is a singular aifair of great 
 size built of stone, the various dials, arcs, etc., all being of stone 
 and on a very large scale, which renders them rather incon- 
 venient for rapid operations. 
 
 We then dropped down the stream, stopping to see the mosque 
 built by Aurungzebe from the ruins of Hindoo temples he had 
 destroyed for the purpose. The view I had from the lofty mina- 
 rets was most extensive. The city appears to be principally 
 built on the banks of the river. Continued on, passing the ghaut 
 built by the Emperor of Delhi, as well as his house. We stopped 
 at another ghaut, and visited the " Bappee dome" and well, 
 where (on dit) the presiding deity of Benares jumped down when 
 the city was besieged by the JVIahommedans. This is a very 
 sacred place. Here they sip Ganges water, and throw down 
 flowers until the water is fairly putrid. Then the " Yishwishna," 
 or "Lord of all," a temple with golden spire or tower, now the 
 Lena Porna, the ancient Ceres. Here the devotees prostrated 
 themselves and touched all sides of their face, nose, and forehead. 
 After which a high priest took us into his house ; the fellow 
 seemed to have made money in his profession, judging from the 
 furniture. 
 
 We then walked to the square where the Eajah of Benares' 
 
 (he and Hall are great friends) elephant met us, (H having 
 
 written to the Rajah for it), most of the streets being too narrow 
 for the buggy. This was my first elephant experience ; it seemed 
 as if we should roll off every moment from the long rolling gait 
 of the animal. Besides which projecting eaves were sadly in the 
 
834 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 way of our craniums ; however we readied home safely by good 
 luck. After breakfast, where we had a most delicious fruit I've 
 failed to speak of before, the custard apple, about the size of a 
 large pear. The fruit is covered with a thick skin for a fruit 
 of that kind. The meat is soft and most luscious. There 
 are two quite different kinds, one grows on the west side of 
 India, the other here. After breakfast I went to the river 
 and in floating down, I made some sketches of the city and 
 ghauts. 
 
 This evening dined with some very nice people, a Mr. K 
 
 and wife — he has travelled and seen much of the world ; losing his 
 fortune he took orders. Then home and took a palanquin for 
 Chunar — the fortress in which Warren Hastings took refuge 
 when he fled from the Benares insurrection. 
 
 Nov. 5, Chunar. — I reached the banks of the Ganges at six 
 this morning. Last night, happening to wake, I found my 
 bearers had planted me somewhere in the road, while they sat 
 down for a smoke, and to eat. I stopped on the bank an hour to 
 sketch the fort, etc., then crossed the river and to Lieutenant 
 
 W 's house, saw him, and after a few minutes' conversation 
 
 I retired to make my toilet, by which time Mrs. W 
 
 appeared. Without being handsome she is a pleasant person. 
 I spent the morning in the house, and this afternoon drove to see 
 the fort, whose base is washed by water on three sides. 
 
 The place is in the form of a foot, and the native tradition is, 
 one of the gods stepping from the mountains to Cape Cormoran, 
 rested his foot here. There are a number of invalids here, this 
 being one of their resorts. The works are very strong, and it 
 made a fine defence before taken. Then on to see two beautiful 
 tombs, one erected by Eajah Suleiman to his wife, the other to 
 the Rajah himself, built by his subjects as a testimonial of regard. 
 The tombs have nothing very beautiful about them, but the court 
 around, which is 150 feet square, has a wall about eight feet high : 
 and four of eight feet in height, form two panels of beautiful 
 
BUDDHIST CONFESSIONS OF FAITH. 835 
 
 open stone work. The portal where the rich men sit and talk, 
 is one of the most beautiful I have ever seen, the entire building 
 being a mass of sculpture almost from turret to foundation-stone 
 with beautiful verandahs also of stone work. Then home and 
 after dinner I shall return to Benares about thirteen miles dis- 
 tant. 
 
 The cholera made terrible havoc in this, as in most other parts 
 of the country last summer. In Benares the native people burnt 
 their dead, and they are said to have amounted io at least 1,200 
 a day ! In 1-1 days they lost 11 per cent, of the European popu- 
 lation ! In Calcutta it was bad enough, and particularly fatal to 
 the American captains, every one I believe died, and new cap- 
 tains took the ships home, either mates were obliged to act as 
 captains, or new captains were obtained. I quite forgot to men- 
 tion the pilot of the Aristides told me that an American ship, 
 from the superiority of her rig, blocks, and other tackle, was easier 
 to manage when not more than half manned, than an EDglish ship 
 with a full crew. 
 
 Nov. 6th^ Benares. — I started last night at nine and reached 
 
 this at two, when I was very soon stowed in my bed at H 's. 
 
 This morning I rode out to see the "Loci-Kedudon," or jumping 
 place, so called from some nonsensical tradition. There are two 
 remains of Bhuddist towers. The one a mound with a Saracenic 
 tomb, the other, the more perfect, is hexagonal, the lower half in 
 many parts quite perfect, the upper part has lost its brown stone 
 coating, and exhibits the brickwork with hundreds of kiln marks 
 on the bricks. There are some underground chambers, and the 
 work seems not to have been finished — so the savans decide. 
 
 On excavating at its base, a few years since, a vase with more 
 than five hundred Bhuddist "confessions of faith" were disco- 
 vered. Several were given to H who gave me one. The 
 
 confession is stamped in the form of a seal on damp clay, then 
 baked hard and enclosed in a case of fresh damp clay which is 
 also baked. Some of them were broken open, and they found the 
 
336 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 confession perfect. Some inscriptions found here, declare these 
 mounds to be now about a thousand years old. 
 
 Then home and to the "kin-kob" manufactory where they 
 make the beautiful silver and gold cloths. I saw several in the 
 looms, exquisitely beautiful. They were about five feet wide 
 and eight or nine yards long — these were worth $175 — others not 
 quite so handsome $150 — one represented the Punjaub war, but 
 it was not well done. I saw others not quite as handsome, to be 
 used by the less wealthy for robes — ^the more valuable kinds are 
 used by the Eajahs. I should like much to have a jDiece, but 
 they work them all into such large pieces and would not cut 
 them, and a whole piece is rather expensive when 65 per cent, is 
 added by exchanges and duties. At home I found some pat- 
 terns of dresses much admired by ladies in England, a light mate- 
 rial of silk and linen, embroidered with gold or silver thread in 
 spots or small figures. It was first known in England at the 
 Exhibition, where it created more sensation than the " kin-kobs," 
 which are rivalled by the French and Swiss, whereas this sur- 
 passed all other manufactures, and is thought so highly of, that 
 even the Queen sends for it. A lady selected two dresses for me 
 with the head scarfs. I am told in the United States the}- are 
 not known, and only within two years past in England, and now 
 
 only sent on private orders by friends. This afternoon II 
 
 sent a note to the Eajah of Benares (they being very intimate) 
 asking permission to take me to see him, and written in the true 
 Eastern style of hyperbolic phrases, " King of kings, light of the 
 world," etc., etc. In a short time an answer came, couched in 
 much the same style, beginning in this way, " The Eajah, etc., 
 sends many compliments to Mr. Hall, endowed with all the 
 accomplishments and virtues, master of ancient and modern lore, 
 and inhabitant of the old and new world, etc., would be most 
 happy to see" me, etc. 
 
 This afternoon I visited the college, a very pretty Gothic struc- 
 ture, but badly built, and entirely unsuited to the purpose. They 
 have only a few scholars, but the principal object is to furnish 
 
THE RAJAH OF BENARES. 337 
 
 professors. H and the head of the college teach Hindoos 
 
 the Sanscrit. I think that they doubt of its utility. They have 
 some very valuable Sanscrit MSS. here, and as yet very little 
 
 else, the building and institution being new. H dined 
 
 with the Governor last evening by invitation. The Governor 
 wrote from the Dak Bungalow to the Commissioner with whom 
 he is staying, to invite me to his levee and dinner, but owing to 
 
 some mistake the invitation did not get to H 's house until 
 
 after I had gone to Chunar, so he answered it for me. H 
 
 said I had made a wonderful impression on the Governor. (I 
 think he must be easily pleased.) He inquired most particularly 
 about me. 
 
 This evening we stopped for an hour or two at the Rajah's. 
 He is not the legitimate occupant of the throne, but a puppet of 
 the Government. He is a very fine looking man, but prema- 
 turely old from excesses. He is wealthy and lives in much style. 
 His house is furnished beautifully, and in the European manner, 
 and with many paintings. But with true native taste everything 
 is odd, curious, or new. A few days since a river pedlar (jDcdlars 
 who move from place to place in boats with their wares) stopped 
 here, having among his stock in trade a number of mecha- 
 nical clocks, boxes, rope-dancers, and pictures, with everything 
 moving by machinery, musical boxes, etc. The Eajah was so 
 delighted with them, he bought the man out. Besides all these 
 other things, he has a miniature telegraph and globes. On the 
 latter he desired me to show him where America was and the 
 part we came from. As the country seemed so much larger than 
 England or India, he probably doubted my veracity. 
 
 Then for my special benefit the Rajah ordered in some nautch 
 girls, who danced and sung ; two of whom were from Peshawur. 
 They sung one of Hafiz's songs while dancing. Part of the air was 
 very pretty, but the style of singing not pleasing. The dancing 
 was graceful, but not to my taste, although perfectly chaste, con- 
 sisting entirely of graceful, gliding movements, the long dress 
 quite covering the feet. After the women had finished, a man 
 
 22 
 
338 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE, 
 
 danced ; — then two musicians played for us, one on a very cele- 
 brated instrument, the "vina," a bar with two gourd-like bulbs 
 and eight strings ; one bulb resting on the lap, the other on the 
 shoulder. The music is like the guitar, though not with as much 
 depth of tone. 
 
 The whole affair was a regular Eastern " durbar." The Eajah 
 was dressed in robes of rich "kin-kobs," and a sort of crown. 
 The others of his suite, and wealthy natives who came in (he 
 having sent for them to be present on the occasion), wore Cash- 
 mere shawls, and turbans. They were distributed about the 
 rooms according to rank, and sitting on chairs or floor as suited 
 their fancy. "We sat on sofas. The Eajah showed us two little 
 bark stands, with colored porcupine quills from Niagara, which 
 he prized very highly. 
 
 To-morrow I start northward. Benares is a rather pleasant 
 station, large though without much to make it very agreeable to 
 residents. It is the great seat of native learning and missionary 
 converts, and purely an English missionary station, mostly of 
 Baptist and other independent denominations. 
 
 Nov. 7th, Allahabad. — I started last night at eleven by 
 transit. The steamers come up as flir as this, but are very 
 tedious, and only Merzapore to be seen, which, as far as business 
 goes, is the most flourishing native town in India. Here natives 
 are easily found who will embark $150,000 in a single speculation. 
 Its carpets are quite celebrated all through India. I reached 
 Allahabad, or rather the river Ganges, at eleven, for we were 
 two hours in crossing. I've seen nothing on the way either 
 interesting or curious, except a harrow whicli may interest father, 
 he being an experimental agriculturist. It was a heavy beam 
 with four oxen abreast attached to it, and two men standing on 
 the beam to give it weight, and steadying themselves by leaning 
 on the oxen. 
 
 Allahabad is situated at the junction of the Ganges and Jumna, 
 and the ancient palace fort of Akbar at the very point. The 
 
ALLAHABAD. 339 
 
 palace was formerly very magnificent. The name of tlie town 
 implies "Abode of God," a title given by the Mahommedan con- 
 querors in place of the former Hindoo name, a habit with these 
 warriors. Akbar built this once fine palace fortress. Being at 
 the junction of the Jumna and Ganges, it is held as a very sacred 
 place by the Hindoos. Formerly great numbers of children 
 were sacrificed in performance of vows made by the parents when 
 sick, and also suicides. The poor wretches fancying they had 
 by expiations removed all their sins, thought they would attain 
 to greater happiness if they died here and under such circum- 
 stances, than if they lived and died elsewhere. But that as well as 
 infanticide have been declared crimes by the government, and the 
 aiders and abettors are severely punished if caught or found out. 
 
 The cantonments are very extensive, and for beauty of undu- 
 lating scenery are said not to be surpassed in India. I was 
 particularly struck with its appearance as I approached it. The 
 neighboring district of Bundelkund is famous for its diamonds. 
 The river is spanned by a bridge of boats. The large sand flat 
 opposite the city, is filled in the winter season with the tents of 
 pious Hindoos, who come to bathe. At this season of the year is 
 a famous Hindoo festival. Every pilgrim gets his head shaved, 
 and allowing the hairs to fall into the Ganges, receives a million 
 years of bliss for each. This with Benares and Gya are the 
 great places of pilgrimage in this part of India. 
 
 I stopped at the bungalow, and drove to Mr. Shaw's, one of 
 
 H 's numerous acquaintances, and to whom he gave me 
 
 a letter. He is an American missionary ; both he and his wife 
 are very nice people. He wished me to have my things sent to 
 his house, and stay there while in this place. But as I am only 
 here for a day I declined. He drove me to Mr. Hay's, another 
 American missionary, to whom I had a letter from an English 
 officer I met at Singapore. I spent the evening here, and to- 
 morrow I am to breakfast with Mr. Shaw and dine with Mr. 
 
 Hay. Mr. S then drove me through the cantonment and 
 
 parade ground, and the fashionable drive called the " Mall." 
 
34:0 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 There are many remains in and about tlie city, attesting its 
 
 former grandeur. To-day I received a letter from Mr. F 
 
 (Mrs, A 's brother), informing me I can go into Cashmere. 
 
 So, hurrah for good luck ! Send the orders for shawls, but 
 don't all speak at once. 
 
 Nov. 8th. — At daylight this morning Mr. S called, and 
 
 drove me out to see a famous caravanserai, built by Sultan 
 Khosroo, with fine quadrangle and four Grothic gateways, now 
 going to ruin. There are three tombs in a large garden, with 
 much of their stonework finely sculptured. These too, are going 
 to ruin. The entire arrangement of garden and tombs is very 
 picturesque. Then to his house and breakfasted. He showed me 
 the school, which is his particular charge, and being a practical 
 man, I think he will make considerable out of his scholars. 
 
 It is striking to see the difference of energy displayed between 
 the English and American establishments. One American is as 
 good as three or four English, and this is the character uni- 
 versally given me of them by the English, military and civil. 
 
 At twelve Mr. Hay called and took me to the fort, introducing 
 
 me to Captain G , a friend of his, and the ojficer in charge. 
 
 They took me through every part. Former palace rooms and 
 durbar halls are converted into military store-rooms. The fort 
 is now a depot or magazine of arms of all descriptions. Under 
 the fort are extensive catacombs. There are usually two or 
 more regiments of infantry here, besides a small force of artillery. 
 
 Captain C said, in the hot season, with all the doors and 
 
 windows closed, and the stone floors constantly sprinkled, that 
 the thermometer rarely went below 108° and 110,° 
 
 As we went out we stopped to descend into the entrance of 
 the infernal regions. A cavern built by the Bhuddists for some 
 of the mysteries of their religion ; part of the arrangement is the 
 trunk of a tree — a panacea for all diseases. It never lives or dies 
 according to the accounts of the natives. The place is filled 
 with idols, and possesses great sanctity. Then to Mr. Hay's 
 
MISSIONARY LIFE IN INDIA. 341 
 
 house where I dined.. They live very comfortably, as do all the 
 missionaries ; but at the best it is a hard life, and they are much 
 "worse off than with less comfort at home ; away from family 
 and friends, combating all kinds of opposition, injuring the 
 health of themselves and families, and enduring great — in 
 fact, inconceivable discomfort from the climate much of the 
 year. With all sorts of appliances the thermometer won't go 
 down below 100° or 110°. They complain that their friends 
 fancy they live luxuriantly with so many servants, a thing not 
 possible to be comprehended in the United States. Every 
 bachelor must positively have nine servants, every child must 
 have one or two, and every horse two, a groom and grass-cutter. 
 The same servant won't set a table and sweep a floor, neither 
 will he carry a package of any size. Nor can one of the three 
 mentioned, wait upon table, or of the four cook, or of the five 
 touch a horse, or of the six wash, or of the seven sew, etc. 
 Every ordinary private family keeps from fifteen to forty. 
 
 Mr. Hay has charge of the mission press, and besides the 
 necessary business for the mission, he does much work for 
 government. This is one of the large American stations, and 
 where they have met with much success. He took me through 
 the printing establishment, and showed me some of his cleverest 
 converts, who belong to the printing establishment. He then gave 
 me four or five letters to various friends. This place being at 
 the junction of two large rivers, is considered very healthy. 
 This is the permanent station of a court composed of a body of 
 judges, who make circuits during certain months, pitching a 
 tent near a large town, where they hold the court, a much more 
 agreeable place to a native than a house where he gets frightened. 
 This evening I shall start for Cawnpore. 
 
 Nov. 9ih, Cawnpore.— I started last evening at six, very cold 
 and dusty, a dull uninteresting road, and reached this place early 
 this morning and am now 600 miles north of Calcutta. Driving 
 first to the Post Office to mail some letters for London, and some 
 
342 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 letters of introduction to people here, tlien to Dr. A 's, a 
 
 friend of H 's and of all the Americans here. H had 
 
 given me a letter to him. He is a Scot and a very estimable 
 person. His house is pleasantly situated near the river. 
 
 This place was formerly a frontier station, and the headquarters 
 of General Lake during the wars in this part of the country forty 
 years ago. Now Peshawur has taken its place, and perhaps in 
 forty years more Cabul or Teheran. Consequently it is nearly 
 deserted of troops. It is spread over a vast extent of ground. 
 I have only seen part as yet, though I made a long circuit in 
 coming in ; and, I believe, there is but little to see here. 
 
 To-morrow I expect to start for Lucknow, the capital of 
 Oude, which has occupied so much attention during the various 
 governments in India, being always intriguing and restless. 
 
 Nov. lOlh. — This morning Dr. A drove me through the 
 
 cantonments which lies for several miles along the river — this 
 being the most extended station in India. The gardens are among 
 the largest and finest in India. The bazaars are among the 
 best, while its European and native shops afford the ladies every 
 facility for the mode a la Paris, and the jewellers are said to be 
 scarce inferior to those of Delhi. One of the regiments stationed 
 here, the 70th Queen's, lost last summer by the cholera one-third 
 of its men. 
 
 This evening Dr. A had a small dinner party, which 
 
 was Yerj pleasant, though the ladies were not surpassingly beau- 
 tiful." 
 
 * It Avas in the capture of this town after the horrid massacre and unmen- 
 tionable atrocities committed on defenceless women by that fiend Nena Sahib 
 and his Satanic horde that the gallant Havelock greatly distinguished himself — 
 and before it that Sir Henry Lawrence died. All the environs of this place 
 as well as those of Allahabad, and, in fact, the country for many miles in circuit, 
 is now historic ground, where hundreds of Englishmen, women, and children^ 
 have been cruelly massacred by treacherous, cowardly Sepoys, who have since 
 been so deservedly sacrificed in thousands by the avenging hands of indignant 
 
EECEPTIOX BY COLONEL SLEEMAN. 343 
 
 This morning I was off for this place by sunrise. I had con- 
 siderable difficulty in crossing the river, and then on through a 
 level uninteresting country for 57 miles, reaching the town by 
 half-past two. After a long drive through the suburbs, etc., (for 
 the place covers a great extent of ground) I reached the Post 
 Office, where I found a Siwar waiting for me with a most cordial 
 note from Colonel Sleeman, "the Eesident," stating that he had 
 sent a carriage to meet me, and take me to his bungalow ; that 
 for the present, during the warm weather, he was not living at 
 the "Residency," but out at the cantonment, and though his 
 house was full, he had pitched a tent for me in front of his door, 
 where he would try and make me as comfortable as j)ossible, and 
 hoped I would stay as long as my time would allow, having come 
 in the best possible season, etc. So I was soon in the carriage and 
 off "en prince " with guards, postilion, and running footmen ; 
 everybody salaaming as we passed as if I was the Resident him- 
 self instead of a plain Yankee traveller, 
 
 I found the cantonment about three miles distant, and the tent 
 he had pitched for me, almost a house in extent, with three great 
 rooms, and a wide passage-way all around between the outer and 
 inner tent. In India they use double tents, that is to say, a huge 
 tent over a moderate-sized one, and thus protecting you from the 
 excessive heat of the sun. In front, stands a sentinel with musket 
 and sword; at the rear another, while the number of servants who 
 were flying about taking care of me and my things, quite bewil- 
 dered me after my late unostentatious mode of life. By the time 
 I had got somewhat composed, and reconciled to my new estate, 
 and had made my toilet. Colonel Sleeman came in to see me. 
 
 He is a most distinguished and charming old gentleman ; he 
 inquired if I had everything comfortable, but not content with 
 my assurances that I had, took a look himself, then taking me to 
 his house presented me to Mrs. Sleeman who is a French lady 
 
 soldiers, to the manes of their fellow-comrades, ofBcers, and their defenceless 
 wives and children who have been so foully murdered, tortured by every 
 fiendish ingenuity, or suffered indignities worse than death. 
 
344 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 from Mauritius, then to Major and Mrs. P who were stay- 
 ing with. them. Mr. and Mrs. S and I took a drive this 
 
 afternoon attended by a guard of irregular cavalry. The Colonel 
 on account of his position is obliged to keep up grand style as 
 this (the Eesidency at Oude) is one of the leading appointments 
 in Bengal, and so always drives out with four horses, and pos- 
 tilions, with a guard of irregular cavalry, besides his private ser- 
 vant who is armed. 
 
 These precautions are highly necessary, as several attempts 
 have been made to assassinate him, partly from his being the man 
 who put down Thuggery, and also from his unpopularity with 
 the King of Oude, from his trying to keep him somewhat within 
 the bounds of reason in the management of his province, which 
 he holds by sufferance and as a puppet of the East India Com- 
 pany, which, after it was fairly the property of the Company by 
 every right, placed him there as a sop to close the mouths of 
 those theoretically philanthropic people in England, who are 
 always crying out against oppression in India, when they have 
 exhausted all other means of creating popularity, sympathy, or 
 division of party. 
 
 Four nights since, the last attempt was made to assassinate the 
 Colonel, but he was not to be caught napping, he was too old a 
 soldier; for besides a company of infantry stationed close to his 
 house, guards at every door, a Siwar (irregular cavalry) escort 
 when he drives, and a dozen guards armed to the teeth following 
 him when he walks, he has half-a-dozen bed-rooms always pre- 
 pared to sleep in, and never sleeping in the same twice in suc- 
 cession. It was in this way he escaped assassination, for the fel- 
 lows got into the room he had slept in the night before, and not 
 finding him, were looking about for his room when the guards 
 discovered them, and then they "scuttled" out of the windows 
 and doors in a hurry. 
 
 The house is of one story, but very large, with lofty ceilings. 
 This evening they had several guests to dine. To-morrow morn- 
 ing I am to go off in the carriage, and servants with mc to show 
 
DESCRIPTION OF LUCKNOW. 345 
 
 the sights. Really the cordiality of my reception has exceeded 
 even the kindness Colonel Low assured me I would receive from 
 Colonel Sleeman. 
 
 Nov. llili. — At daylight this morning I started oflp in Colonel 
 
 S 's carriage for the town, visiting first the Imaunbarali of 
 
 Mohammed All Shah, the grandfather of the present king. 
 Then a large tomb of one of the kings, a museum or show place 
 for every variety of chandeliers with pendants of all colors: 
 green glass tigers which are objects of great wonderment to the 
 natives. Small and large railings of filigree work which are 
 inclosures with spires and ornaments, adjuncts of Mahommedan 
 tombs, all covered with very thick sheets of silver. Then a 
 wooden horse, another astonishing curiosity which I was expected 
 to praise beyond measure, curious old paintings by natives, one 
 or two small tombs, and a bath not particularly beautiful. After 
 all this to the Imaunbarah (tomb) of Asafed Dowlah, the great- 
 great uncle of the present king, Saadut Ali Khan. Asafed Dow- 
 lah had no son, and was succeeded by his brother Saadut Ali. 
 
 Col. Sleeman, who is probably the best informed of any maa 
 in India in the history of the country, in its various ramifications, 
 gave me this genealogical account which probably will not be 
 very interesting to you, and yet I write it as a part of my brief 
 journal to refer to at some future time if necessary. 
 
 After breakfast drove with Dr. F , the surgeon attached 
 
 to the Residenc}^, to the city, where I had a very beautiful view 
 from the top of the " Residenc}^," which is a fine, large, and impos- 
 ing building. The town is bordered by the Goomte river, which 
 is spanned by a fine iron bridge ; the view of the city is beyond 
 exception one of the most picturesque in the East — only rivalled 
 by Benares of all I have seen east of Cairo. It is a view so purely 
 oriental, it is impossible for one who has not been in the East to 
 realize it, the numbers of palaces, public buildings, domes, mina- 
 rets of temples and mosques, with that dream-like halo encircling 
 it — an oriental sky and atmosphere ! 
 
346 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE, 
 
 Leaving the carriage, we mounted an elephant, and the Doctor 
 made a short round of business, when he took me to the king's 
 Observatory^, erected at great expense, and now going fast to 
 ruin. 
 
 This afternoon Major, Mrs. P , and I drove out; as we 
 
 were coming out of the house the king's prime minister called 
 
 to see Colonel S on business — he wore a sort of coronet. 
 
 We heard the band play, there being a place here, as iu every 
 station, where the fashion of the cantonment meet to hear the 
 
 music and discuss each other. This evening Colonel S 
 
 had a large dinner party. 
 
 Nov. 13. — Colonel S arranged this morning that Dr. 
 
 F should take me to visit the La Martini5re, a branch of 
 
 a famous school or college at Calcutta, a third is in Lyons ; they 
 were established by General Claude Martin, a Frenchman, who 
 made a large sum of money in this country as a military adven- 
 turer, and left it to be invested in public schools in the above 
 three places. It took the trustees thirty years to decide what his 
 intentions were. It was a species of " Gerard will" aifair. In 
 the meanwhile the money tripled. 
 
 The building he erected himseK. It is more of a palace in its 
 arrangements than a school or college ; the architecture I will 
 not discuss, tastes vary when a "composite" is attempted. But 
 whatever the intentions of the builder were, they have been sadly 
 disarranged by the addition of two large wings, giving a much 
 more utilitarian than architectural effect. 
 
 The view from the top is very fine. On every side when you 
 see a large building, to your inquiry of what it is, you receive 
 the same reply, " the King's Harem," known under the various 
 names of "the Soul's Delight," "the Pleasure of the Heart," or 
 some other figurative term for the contributors to this besotted 
 sensualist king's pleasures. 
 
 Then on to the old palace ; as we were returning to the city 
 we were passed by several elephants, tigers, cheeturs, and 
 
THE PALACE AT LUCKNOW. 347 
 
 lynxes, taking tlieir morning airing on foot, led by their native 
 keepers — I did not crowd tbem. This palace is not occupied. 
 It contains the throne room, and throne, which it would be most 
 inauspicious to move. It is covered with gold and silver, orna- 
 mented with precious stones, though not of much real value. 
 
 The throne itself is a raised platform of four feet high and 
 perhaps eight feet square. The room is terribly dilapidated, 
 carpet ragged, and pigeons flying about in fullest freedom. At 
 one end of the room formerly stood a mirror ; a few years ago 
 during some difficulty, troops were brought in here to charge the 
 people ; in the excitement of the moment after the people had 
 fled out of the doors and windows, they seeing themselves 
 reflected in the mirror, supposed they were a part of the enemy's 
 forces, and charged the imaginary foe — with the natural result. 
 
 The palace in former times must have been handsome. Here 
 were held some of the interviews with Clive, Hastings, and other 
 notabilities of those days. This afternoon the Colonel and I took 
 a walk ; his information on India, her history and affairs, is 
 immense, and added to which his long experience and good 
 judgment, renders his society most fascinating — the treasures of 
 history combined with the charms of brilliant conversation. 
 
 Nov. 14. — This morning Mrs, S , Mrs. P , and I 
 
 drove to the " Eesidency," they for business while I went on the 
 
 roof and made a sketch of the city. Mrs. P has invited 
 
 me to stay with her when I visit Agra. She and the Major are 
 great friends of the missionaries. At Lahore' she stayed with 
 some of them during the Punjaub War, while her husband was 
 in active service. This afternoon I drove back to the Eesidency 
 to finish my sketch. 
 
 I then mounted an elephant and rode to see the " Choke," as it 
 is termed, the wealthier and most curious part of the bazaars. 
 It is singular to see these huge brutes thread their way through 
 narrow, uneven, and slippery streets. When they meet each 
 other there is often a very close squeeze to pass, and yet they are 
 
348 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE, 
 
 guided by the slightest touch. Usually the mahout, or driver, 
 uses a pointed iron, like a boat-hook ; but on meeting natives 
 (who must give way), I saw them several times backed into a 
 narrow alley for me to pass, and yet, only by a slight pressure 
 of the hand on the neck. They present a very singular appear- 
 ance in approaching through a narrow street, with huge black 
 bodies and mottled trunks which swing about, often on the 
 ground. 
 
 The horses and cattle in passing evince great alarm, and yet I 
 am told the elephant is much the most frightened. Among the 
 sights was the Rajah from Gwalior, his horse covered with gold 
 embroidered housings. There is a very great resemblance 
 between all bazaars in India and the East generally, and I am 
 very fond of wandering through them — the only advantage to-day 
 was being on the " Resident's" elephant, with rich housings and 
 servants. I rode " en prince," every one salaaming me, people 
 on elephants backing out of the way, and people on horseback 
 dismounting. This evening Colonel Sleeman had a large dinner 
 party. 
 
 November loth, Cawnpoee Bungalow. — At daylight I took 
 another walk with Colonel Sleeman ; as we returned my transit 
 carriage drove up, so I bid good-bye to all, and started off 
 again on my wanderings after a most delightful visit, in which 
 
 Col. and Mrs. S did everything possible to render it 
 
 agreeable. 
 
 The journey to-day had nothing to interest, neither the country 
 or people I was constantly passing, and now I am stopping at 
 this place until nine this evening, when I shall start for Meerut, 
 where I have a letter to an ofl&cer in the 14th Light Dragoons, a 
 
 Queen's regiment, and also expect a letter from Mr. F at 
 
 Lahore, with directions as to my route. 
 
 Last evening I had a long conversation with Captain L , 
 
 who has recently returned from Cashmere, of which he gave me 
 a most glowing account, and especially of the scenery in the 
 
OPPKESSION AND MISRULE. 349 
 
 Himala3^as, which he says far exceeds that of the Alps, and 
 he assured me mj utmost expectations would be equalled. 
 
 As to the natives, their oppression is almost beyond belief, the 
 king having absolute authority, and merely paying an annual 
 tribute to the East India Company. Colonel Sleeman says that 
 two or three centuries ago, Cashmere was the summer resort of 
 the Indian Moguls or Emperors, and their nobility, each having 
 a small tract granted to, or purchased by him, and it was under 
 the protection of those days that the celebrated shawl factories 
 arose. But after the emperors' rule had passed away, factions 
 rose, and as each obtained power, he governed with despotic 
 sway, and in that way matters have come down to the present 
 day. 
 
 In Runjeet Singh's time, the rulers paid tribute to him. Dur- 
 ing the Punjaub war they offered and promised assistance to the 
 English, but, native-like, held back to see which party gained 
 the day, and when the English did, they were most profuse in 
 their excuses for not giving the profferred aid sooner. 
 
 But of all the countries in or out of India, I think none can 
 exceed or even equal this, where misrule is the order of the day. 
 The king passing his time between the sensuality of the Zenana 
 or witnessing combats between elephants, tigers, and everything 
 that has got the least fight in it, down to a poor little quail — the 
 country a hotbed of revolution, and the government as dangerous 
 to India, as it is destructive to the prosperity of the people. The 
 taxes are collected by an army, No native under such rule ever 
 pays if he can avoid it — he is never very willing to pay, but 
 most positively opposed to it here, for should he pay willingly, 
 the tax collector would only pocket the money himself, and 
 report he could not collect it, when he would be furnished with 
 an armed force, who would plunder, torture, or murder the men 
 in every way a refined brutality could suggest, besides violating 
 all the women they could find — an outrage they all look upon 
 as perfectly justifiable under the circumstances — in fact they 
 look upon these " little excesses" as their perquisites. 
 
350 FKOM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 Every petty cliief makes war upon his neiglibors, plundering 
 or getting plundered. In fact there is no security for person, or 
 property. The English have enlisted great numbers of these 
 high caste people in their army, who join to gratify their belli- 
 gerent tastes, as most of the people of the better or fighting caste 
 look down upon the rj^ots or laborers, and consider the sole pur- 
 pose of life to be fight and plunder. 
 
 The English, by enlisting so many of this class, have rendered 
 the Bengal army the most turbulent and least efficient in the 
 three Presidencies. All soldiers are expected to work in the 
 trenches or assist in such labor in war, but these rascals posi- 
 tively refuse to work, though the soldiers in both of the other 
 Presidencies work with the Queen's troops. The men make a 
 fine show on parade, but have never fought better, or as well, 
 if I am correctly informed, as those of the Madras and Bombay 
 Presidencies. 
 
 When they enlist, they agree to do and go as required, and in 
 most instances, when ordered down to Calcutta to embark for 
 China or Burmah, they have positively refused to go, and the 
 government, with singular imbecility, have ordered them up 
 country again, almost apologizing for having asked such a 
 thing of them, instead of compelling them to go, and making 
 an example of the mutinous soldiers by shooting some of them 
 down. 
 
 In this way the Bengal soldiers have almost come to the belief 
 that they are the rulers. Besides all this, they are treated with 
 much more lenity than the English soldiers. An English sol- 
 dier may be severely flogged for any dereliction of duty — a 
 native soldier cannot be touched ; and in this way they have 
 almost got to despise the European soldiers from being so much 
 better treated themselves. Their pay is from six to seven dollars 
 a month, and though obliged to furnish his linen and materials, 
 and to keep his arms and accoutrements in order, still there is a 
 balance in his favor of twice as much as he would earn in any 
 other way. The English respect their castes, though by taking 
 
THE GREAT GAI^GES CANAL. 351 
 
 SO many from Oude, they liavc weakened the effect that was 
 formerly produced from having every variety of creed and caste 
 more equally divided, to counteract the influence of any one sect 
 or caste."^ 
 
 November IQth, BUNGALOW. — Last night I started for this 
 place ; to-day over an -uninteresting country, mailed a letter for 
 you, and this afternoon, while stopping at the bungalow, saw a 
 gentleman, lady and child, like myself enjoying the felicity of 
 travellino;. 
 
 "o" 
 
 November 17th, Meerut. — Travelling all day with no new 
 sight except the bed of the Great Ganges Canal, no^ yet quite 
 ready for use. It is a stupendous work, and intended to irrigate 
 the country principally, though partially for transport. It has 
 been built in the hopes of preventing the frightful famines that 
 sometimes afflict this part of India on the failure of the usual 
 annual quantity of rain. Reaching here at eleven this evening, 
 
 * After I left India, the lawlessness of the government having exceeded 
 tlie last possible point of forbearance the East India Company could permit, 
 consistent with its own safety, they annexed Oude, pensioned the king, and 
 took possession of the country. A large number of those I knew at Lucknow 
 have perished in the rebellion. Sir Henry Lawrence was appointed as Resi- 
 dent after the resignation of Colonel Sleeman, and died during the siege of 
 Cawupore, — I was in correspondence with him wliile in India. GeueraF 
 Havelock, another of the heroes who perished during the insurrection, I knew 
 personally, and General Neill, who was killed during the siege of Lucknow, I 
 was most intimately acquainted with. He, like Havelock, had seen much 
 service ; both were in the Afghanistan campaign, where they were highly 
 distinguished, and latterly Neill was much distinguished in the Burmese war, 
 and it was after his return to England to recover his health in 1854 that he 
 volunteered for the Crimean campaign, where he commanded in the Turkish 
 contingent. He was a splendid specimen of a soldier in every respect. He 
 and Havelock were most unmistakable types of the true soldier, and could 
 not be mistaken, under any circumstances, for anything else. 
 
 The " Residency" I allude to in the city was the building that stood the 
 memorable siege until relieved by the army under Havelock, Neill, and 
 Outram. 
 
352 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 I was soon enjoying a cup of tea, and presently I hope a com- 
 fortable night's rest after the two past nights of transit coach 
 joltings. 
 
 November 18th. — Sending to the Post Office this morning, found 
 
 a letter from Mr. F at Lahore, with directions what to do. 
 
 So drove to the Post Office and laid my dak for to-morrow for 
 Lahore, a journey of 450 miles. A five days' and nights' con- 
 secutive jolt by dhooly, a sort of skeleton palanquin — being of 
 wood covered with canvas, instead of all wood, and net bottom 
 for bed instead of cane, so is lighter, and from its construction 
 more springy, and makes less jolting. They told me four men 
 were the complement to carry me, instead of the eight allowed a 
 palanquin, which makes considerable difference in the expense, 
 for everything in India is commensurate with the high pay of 
 the officials, exchanges, bankers' commissions, etc., to which are 
 added constant exchanges, for as silver and not gold is the cur- 
 rency, one can only carry a small amount with him for the 
 weight, and he is necessarily obliged either to get hoondies 
 (native drafts), drafts on the up-country banks, or drawing a 
 certain sum on your London banker, deposit it with your Cal- 
 cutta banker, and take a general letter of credit ^rom your 
 Calcutta banker on the banks and bankers up country. 
 
 I did the latter, and they all charge a heavy discount, for, like 
 the Calcutta shopkeepers, they " did not come out here for our 
 health." My servant and heavy luggage I shall despatch to- 
 morrow night by the government bullock train of waggons for 
 Lahore, which he will reach in three or four days after me. 
 
 I then drove to Mr. J 's, a lieutenant in the 14th Light 
 
 Dragoons (one of the Queen's regiments), to whom I had a letter 
 
 from M of the 15th Hussars at Bangalore. He at once 
 
 proposed introducing me to his mess, and being on the sick list, 
 wrote to the surgeon for permission to dine at the mess this 
 evening, for which he invited me. He then introduced me to 
 his chum. Major W , of the same regiment. After a while 
 
7T 
 
THE BEGUM SOMEOO. 353 
 
 W proposed my going to tlie mess for tiffin, and see the 
 
 news by the late steamer. Then I was introduced to the colonel 
 and half a dozen other officers of the regiment. 
 
 This afternoon W called at the duk bungalow, and 
 
 drove me out, I having declined their invitation to stay with 
 them, as I have some packing and repacking, for the servant is 
 to take all my heavy luggage. During our drive we saw all the 
 " beauty and fxshion," and the station, which is one of the pret- 
 tiest in India, with distant views of the Himalayas ; it also has a 
 very healthy and agreeable climate. Even at this season, the 
 weather is rather cool. At dinner I made the acquaintance of 
 more of the officers. 
 
 Then to my bungalow and off for Sirdana, the capital of the 
 celebrated Begum Somroo (Begum means queen or widow of the 
 king), who was a half-caste Portuguese woman, or else descended 
 from the Mogul family (descents are very queer in India). I 
 believe the latter is the correct version. She is the widow of a 
 French adventurer by the name of Sombre, who attained much 
 celebrity in the time of Hastings by his cruelty to all the English 
 prisoners who fell into his hands. After this husband's death 
 she had numerous temporary husbands, being rather given to 
 "fancy life," like her great predecessor Catharine of Eussia. 
 Among her lovers or enemies, as circumstances dictated, was an 
 Irishman from Tipperary, a deserter and adventurer, who had 
 a rival kingdom near by, for which he fought a battle three or 
 four times a week for three or four years, when he was forced to 
 fly and give up altogether his attempts to Hibernicise these natives, 
 who obstinately preferred St. Bhudda to St. Patrick. The Begum 
 was more politic, and maintained her kingdom until her death a 
 few years ago, though it was much curtailed by the English, 
 who held the actual rule, though she possessed the nominal one. 
 She became a Roman Catholic, and built a cathedral at Sirdana. 
 The Dyce Sombre, about whose property there is a lawsuit, is 
 her son. Being a "great catch" as to fortune, Lord St. Vincent's 
 family being poor, took him for one of their daughters, and then, 
 
 23 
 
354 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 found lie was crazy, and shut him up, and thought him still 
 more crazy when they found he had left his property to the 
 East India Company at his death, instead of to his mercenary 
 wife, who did not mind " amalgamation" with this native to get 
 a prospective chance at his money, now likely to be consumed 
 in the lawsuit maintained by the East India Company for its 
 recovery as his heir b}^ devise in the will. 
 
 Nov. 19^/i, SiRDANA. — I reached here at daylight, and while 
 making my toilet (at the cathedral door where the men had 
 planted me) in my dhooly, a priest passed in the gates for morn- 
 ing mass. Breakfasting on the spare diet of water, a cold Qgg^ 
 and dry bread, I started for the chapel, when an Irish priest 
 informed me I could not see the tomb until after service. He 
 invited me into the church, and gave me a seat; going in I 
 passed the Begum's old Italian doctor, who, with his dogs, were 
 enjoying the service at the church door. The dogs seeing me, 
 set up a tremendous barking m the church. I watched the Hin- 
 doo converts, who were as much puzzled as I was at the service, 
 and I suppose their Christianity was very much on the same 
 principle as the New Zealander's, who declared, " I am good 
 Christian. I don't eat no more missionary on Sunday." 
 
 The church is pretty and neat, with tesselated marble pave- 
 ment, and a few tolerably good paintings. After the service, by 
 dint of much entreaty, and assuring the priests that I was an 
 American traveller, and not an Englishman, I succeeded. About 
 a week ago a large party of officers, their families and friends, 
 were here on a "pic-nic," and brought their hampers into the 
 church, and made their "spread" in the nave; after which some 
 formed a cotillion and danced, while others went to the confes- 
 sional, the ladies pretending to confess their sins, while the men 
 did the priest. And what made the matter worse was, that many 
 of the men were high in the civil and military service. After 
 this the Bishop forbad that the tomb should be shown to 
 strangers. However, I succeeded at last. 
 
THE BEGUM SOMROO. 355 
 
 It is a square monument of two blocks. At eacli corner of 
 the lower block is a figure of life size : on tlie right front her son 
 Dyce Sombre, on the left a Mussulman, on the rear right side a 
 native, and on the left the Archbishop. On the front of the 
 upper block, is a tablet in alto-rehevo of the Begum presenting 
 some church vessel to the Bishop. On the right side of this 
 block, is an alto-relievo of the Begum in state on her throne. 
 On the left she is on an elephant leading her army. On the top 
 of the block the Begum, life-size, is seated on her throne. She 
 is small, dressed in the oriental costume of trowsers and short 
 full skirt with a scarf. The whole is of white marble, executed 
 in Italy, and sent out here. 
 
 She looks most peculiar in this costume. Her face indicates 
 some cleverness, and much decision. In an adjoining chapel is 
 her tomb, in true Mussulmanic style, of chunam, with spears and 
 banner in each corner. 
 
 I then went to see her palace — a fine large building in the 
 Italian style, and very like an English gentleman's country 
 house. The main and front room was in a very dilapidated 
 condition, with a billiard table. The walls were hung with por- 
 traits of herself, son in a court dress, besides Enghsh and French 
 of&cers. I next went to the ladies' room in the rear ; there is, 
 however, nothing to be seen there. Her bath-room was very 
 handsomely fitted up in white or grey marble. All the rooms 
 are shown, except the one in which, in a fit of jealousy, she is 
 said to have buried one of her dancing girls alive. In front of 
 this house, were two tents of some gentlemen, and two bears 
 chained to tr^es. There is nothing more than these things to be 
 seen. The town is small and uninteresting. Back to Meerut, a 
 
 three hours' ride. Called to see J and W , and this 
 
 evening shall be off on my little trip of five days. 
 
 Nov. 20lh, Seharumpoor. — After a bitter cold night, I reached 
 a bungalow for breakfast about eight this morning. At Dolund 
 I saw some irregular cavalry. The place was apparently at one 
 
356 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHAlEliE, 
 
 time a good-sized city. This afternoon I saw a pond or "bund" 
 (a place where water is confined for irrigation) in the distance, 
 with hundreds of wild geese flying about. I saw a tent standing 
 near the road, and heard some one's gun near the pond. This 
 afternoon, while enjoying a sandwich dinner or "tiffin" in my 
 dhooly, with towel and sandwiches in my lap, bottles of catsup, 
 chutney, and beer at my side, and I in my shirt-sleeves and 
 red " bonnet de nuit," with one hand to my mouth with a sand- 
 wich, and a big hunting knife in the other, I was suddenly sur- 
 prised by the apparition of a pair of bright eyes gazing very 
 quizzically at me — a lady going " down country " in her palan- 
 quin, a gentleman walking behind with his dogs and followed 
 by his palanquin. 
 
 Usually on approaching, the bearers set up a grunting chorus, 
 which apprises you of the approach of any one. At dusk this 
 evening I reached this place. Two officers passed me on horse- 
 back as I came in. Saw two churches, and then was planted in 
 the road for a while to collect my next set of bearers. The place 
 seems small. 
 
 Nov. 21s^, Umballa. — Last evening I passed through the 
 principal street of Seharumpoor. The shops looked very curious, 
 all being lit up. At daylight had a glimpse of the Himalayas. 
 Arrived at this place at three. I passed an occasional walled 
 town peering through the trees. Umballa is a cavalry station, 
 without many houses. The bungalow is full. I just got a chance 
 for a dinner. I have letters to some American missionaries here, 
 and an officer in the 9th Lancers (Queen's regiment), but shall 
 wait until my return to present them.* 
 
 ' After leaving the principal town of Umballa, in about three 
 miles, I came to another, the native town I suppose, though it 
 had a few European bungalows. At dark I saw the tent and 
 camp equipments of some officers moving up country; shortly 
 
 * Umballa was one of the first places where the revolt broke out. 
 
LAODIANA. 357 
 
 after, a small, well fortified Mussulman town, with a fine portal 
 at each end. 
 
 Nov. 22cZ, Laodiana. — At daylight I passed another small 
 fortified town, which I sketched. I reached this place coming 
 over much bad road, which is now being graded, and as soon as 
 that is finished and the kunka put on, it will be beautifully 
 smooth, like the grand trunk road to Meerut. 
 
 The town is situated on a small sandy elevation. It appears 
 to be very dirty, disagreeable, and thinly peopled. Outside 
 of the town was a company of irregular cavalry, with part 
 of a regiment of Europeans moving up country to Peshawur, 
 and the whole place full of baggage-wagons. I had a letter to 
 Mr. Porter, a very highly esteemed missionary at this place, 
 from Mr. Burnet, a missionary I met at Damascus in the autumn 
 of 1852, who said' Mr. Porter had been a classmate of his at the 
 seminary. But I hear he has fallen a victim to the climate and 
 died this morning, so felt my absence would be preferred to my 
 company at such a time, as several of the missionaries at Lahore 
 are here with his family. 
 
 After dinner I started again and crossed the Sutlej, a sand 
 bed for the most part at this season, and two thirds of a mile 
 wide. The first war with the Sikhs in 1845, was occasioned by 
 their crossing this river and attacking the English. 
 
 Runjeet Singh managed to control their warlike ardor during 
 his lifetime, but after his death they could not restrain their 
 desire to measure arms with "John Company," when, after 
 several very severe battles, the Sikhs were defeated, and the 
 country occupied by the English troops, and an English Resident, 
 Sir Henry Lawrence, stationed at Lahore. About eight miles 
 out, I passed the strong native fort of Falour, now used as a 
 powder magazine. About three hours after I crossed the Beas, 
 called by some the Hydaspes, where Alexander the Great termi- 
 nated his wanderings eastward ; I believe that place is more to 
 the northwest. 
 
358 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 Crossing tlie bed of the river, I saw many of the carts imbedded 
 almost to the hubs in the sand ; the soldiers, some walking and 
 others sitting and looking quietly on, while the women were 
 talking, scolding, or looking the picture of despair. On top of 
 one cart I saw one hard at work washing clothes. The boats used 
 for bridges are curious, very flat, and with high pointed fronts 
 or bows like a sail. Then on with but little besides an uninter- 
 esting country to see, only bad roads and hundreds of native 
 travellers, 
 
 Nov. 2M, Umritza. — Over a flat level country this morning; 
 at five passed the small town of Jellendir. Saw a wing of the 
 61st, Queen's, moving up country. I reached this place at four. 
 
 I wrote a note to Mr. D to inform him I was here, and 
 
 ask when it would be agreeable for him to show me the 
 
 place — F having asked him to "do the civil" and show 
 
 me 'the lions of the place, viz., the Sikh tank, prison, etc. I 
 found he was off on his circuit, being a civil officer ; so I got a 
 chupprassy (an out-door attendant or messenger) and started on 
 foot, being only a few hundred yards off, first to the "sacred tank.'' 
 
 This is the largest town in the Punjaub (the Sikh country), 
 and the most important commercially. Here are probably made 
 more Cashmere shawls (or camel's hair, a name they are better 
 known by among you, though for no reason, as they are made 
 from the wool of a goat that is found at Ladak in Thibet) than 
 any place out of Cashmere. The city is walled, and presents a fine 
 appearance from a short distance. The streets are mostly paved 
 with brick, and some are quite wide. The fronts of the houses 
 display considerable taste. After a circuit of the principal 
 bazaars, and seeing them working at the Cashmere shawls, etc., 
 I reached the entrance to the great tank, the Mecca of the Sikhs. 
 
 Here I was obliged to remove my shoes. In the East, where 
 every man shaves his head, he, of course, never uncovers it, but 
 takes off his shoes as a matter of respect ; and a native, or your 
 servant, if he wishes to be impertinent, will come into youT 
 
THE GREAT TANK AT UMRITZA. 359 
 
 presence with them on, except in travelling, when in the hurry 
 of the moment he may forget it. But at all other times, it would 
 be as much a matter of premeditated impertinence, as a gentle- 
 man entering a parlor in the presence of ladies with his hat on ; 
 and then the proper way of noticing the insult, is by quietly 
 taking your cane or whip and laying it vigorously over their 
 backs, which is safer in assisting their exit than by giving them 
 the "loan of your foot," as they are so subject to spleen the 
 latter might kill them (officers thoughtlessly adopting the latter 
 mode of punishment occasionally get themselves into difficulties). 
 
 Stepping into a pair of thick woollen socks, I entered the great 
 quadrangle or court, of about four hundred feet square, with a 
 terrace or walk of forty feet in width of tessellated marbles, sur- 
 rounding the tank. The rear of fine and picturesque native 
 houses, encloses and forms the exterior wall to the place ; these, 
 with overhanging verandahs, sculptured windows, and peculiar 
 oriental look, and in some parts temple domes and spires, all lend 
 an additional charm to this fairy scene. 
 
 In the centre of the tank stands a temple of white marble, 
 from fifty to sixty feet square, with a small dome rising from 
 each corner, which is supported by eight columns ; and from the 
 centre of the building rises a large dome. The upper half of the 
 external part of the building is a mass of exquisite gilding, even 
 to the very dome itself; and as if to make it more brilliant from 
 contrast, the lower half of the building, from the edge of the 
 water, is of the purest white marble, beautifully inlaid after the 
 Florentine style of mosaic, with designs of vines and flowers in 
 agate, cornelian, jasper, and other similar and beautiful stones. 
 
 The doors are covered with plates of silver, and the walls are 
 panelled from floor to dome, and all of the richest sculpture, the 
 whole of marble. The temple is divided into two parts, with a 
 passage-way between. In one sat the high-priest, in front of 
 him a cushion which appeared to form his desk ; he was per- 
 forming some kind of service or devotion, with the Grunth 
 (their Koran) before him on the cushion. At his side, and 
 
360 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 around the temple on a lower step or terrace, were worshippers 
 sipping water and meditating. This beautiful temple is con- 
 nected with the terrace or walk around the tank by a bridge of 
 white marble. The pavement tessellated ; the end nearest the 
 temple is decorated in mosaic with birds and fish. At the oppo- 
 site end, the entrance to the bridge, is a most elaborately and 
 richly ornamented portal, gilded and plated. Beyond this, on 
 the opposite side of the terrace to the portal, is a temple, where 
 some of the officials or priestly dignitaries took me. Altogether 
 this is the most exquisitely beautiful thing I have seen thus far 
 in India. I have made a sketch, which, I am sorry to say, can 
 give you but a very meagre idea of its beauties ; nor can any- 
 thing but the sight of the original itself, surrounded by all its 
 oriental accessories. When illuminated, it might serve as an 
 illustration of an Arabian night fairy scene. 
 
 Then to my bungalow again, which is the portal to a large 
 garden, two stories high, and at present, from the number of 
 travellers, looks like a small hotel. Before the door in the plain, 
 is a large body of the Seikh local corps drilling. They are a 
 drilled militia and very fine-looking, as the Seikhs generally are 
 as far as I have seen them in my wanderings through their 
 •country and this town. They all have more of the Arab and 
 Syrian look, with the bright complexions of the Egyptians, than 
 ^ny race of people I have seen in India. In their wars with the 
 English during the Sutlej campaign of 1845, and Punjaub war 
 of 1848, they always despised the Sepoy troops, and put all the 
 force of the attacks against the English. I am told they are 
 really a military race, and enlist most willingly. The English 
 ihave availed themselves of this disposition, and sent regiments 
 ■of them to Burmah, for the double purpose of getting rid of 
 1;hose who are the most anxious to fight, and because the petted 
 Bengalees refase to go.^ 
 
 * The Seikhs and Goorka regiments, I believe, are the only regiments, 
 'during the Bengal mutinies, that have not been suspected or disarmed — cer- 
 
LAHORE. 361 
 
 Dinner was mj first meal, except a sandwich or two, for ihiriij- 
 iwo hours ! — my appetite was good ! 
 
 Nov. 24:ih^ Lahore. — I started last night at eight for this place, 
 
 getting here at six this morning. I caught F enjoying his 
 
 " last nap." After a cup of tea we were off to the Post Office, 
 where I found a letter from Hall, inclosing one of introduction 
 from Mr. Colvih, the Lieutenant-Governor of the Northwest 
 Provinces, to John Lawrence, Esq., the Chief Commissioner (or 
 Governor) of the Punjaub. 
 
 Then to the town, where I climbed to the top of the minarets 
 of the Great Mosque, which gives a fine view of the city and 
 country. The city formerly had high walls, tolerably fortified 
 under Eanjeet Singh, the late Maharajah (great king), who con- 
 solidated the Seikh power. His Palace buildings were on an 
 enormous scale. They are now converted into infantry barracks. 
 There are few noticeable buildings here. 
 
 To-morrow I am to drive out to the tomb of Jehan Ghir, one 
 of the five great Emperors. On our return, we stopped at the 
 Post Office ; but the Calcutta mail had not arrived. I saw the 
 ice-house establishment. The water is frozen in flat dishes during 
 the night, collected before sunrise, thrust into the house, and 
 pounded down by Coolies. They often get of a morning in this 
 
 way, from 2 to 6 tons. After breakfast, F 's chum, Mr. 
 
 Wedderburn, joined us, having just returned from the district 
 where he had been some days on official business. 
 
 This morning I called on Mr." Grenville, the Chief Commis- 
 sioner's Secretary, for a permit. It passed me on my way to his 
 house. He is a fine man ; he said that the Lieutenant-Governor, 
 Mr. Colvin, had written to one of the high officials here about 
 me, and wished them to render me any assistance in their power. 
 Mr. Lawrence has gone to Peshawur to quell disturbances. This 
 
 taiiily the only ones that have remained faithful to "the Company's salt;" 
 and during these trying times they have borne a high reputation for their 
 courage and zeal in the Company's cause. 
 
362 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 is a nice little district of about a thousand miles square, wliicli 
 he has under his charge. To-morrow we dine with G . 
 
 Nov. 25th. — F and I started ofiE" this morning to the 
 
 tomb of Jehan Ghir, which is about three miles from the town. 
 I crossed the river, which is about a mile in width now and ford- 
 able, though in the wet season it is a deep stream. 
 
 Like all Mussulman tombs of any pretension, it is a large 
 square building, with four lofty minarets, and situated in a pretty 
 garden. The tomb is now going to decay, though government 
 occasionally lends a watchful eye to its preservation. The tomb 
 is in the interior of the building. Passing through the tes- 
 sellated hall, with stucco walls, or chunam painted to represent 
 tiles (an art now lost like that of the art of making azulijos or 
 painted tiles in the Alhambra, which they much resemble), around 
 the tomb there is a white marble floor, in mosaic, of Florentine 
 style, with agate, lapis lazuli, cornelian, and jasper. Beyond is a 
 marble lace- work screen. 
 
 The tomb stands under a small, but beautifully painted dome, 
 which, like the other parts, shows visible marks of age and decay. 
 The minarets are of brick, with a covering of chunam, with 
 many parts painted in various colors, in "herring-bone style." 
 
 Ascending to the top of the main building, I found a flat roof 
 about 200 feet square, and paved with marble in various pat- 
 terns ; — scollops, stars, and almost every possible device, in black 
 and white marble — principally the latter. 
 
 Lahore presents a fine appearance from the minarets. Then 
 
 home, and after breakfast F • and W went to hold 
 
 kutcherries (courts), while I am passing the day midst maps, 
 routes, and accounts. T bought a book of a native artist, with 
 views, costumes, artizans, etc. — very neatly done, and I am sure, 
 notwithstanding the bad perspective, it will afford much amuse- 
 ment to all at home. 
 
 This afternoon F and I drove to the Botanical Gardens, 
 
 to hear the band, but they did not play. We afl;erwards dined 
 

 
 J!i 
 
 '"'•''Hi 
 
 m 
 
 iiiiiiii 
 
THE SHALIMAR GARDENS, 363 
 
 at Mr. AI 's — a dinner given to me. We met a pleasant 
 
 party of six; Captain E , one of the Afghan prisoners 
 
 during the war — a Deputy Commissioner, and a Captain D . 
 
 Nov. 26ih. — Off early to the city. En route I stopped to see 
 the great gun, of enormous size, made by one of the early sove- 
 reigns. Then on to the city to see a pretty mosque, built by 
 Jehan Ghir, who sent to China for artists to paint it. They were 
 most profuse in their views, flowers, and gaudy colors. But the 
 effect is very pleasing. On the top of the minarets (which are 
 oddly painted) the view is fine. The Golden Mosque with gilt 
 minarets, and the Palace in the fort succeeded. We visited 
 the Hall of Audience ; it is a large court, with tessellated pave- 
 ment and fountain, and opening on to it is the Great Hall, the 
 ceiling and walls of which are inlaid with convex bits of glass, 
 cut in various designs. When lighted it must be brilliant and 
 gaudy. 
 
 It was here that, after the Sutlej campaign of the first Seikh 
 war. Lord Gough, the Governor-General, and the rest of the dig- 
 nitaries, met the young Maharajah, with a guard of only one 
 hundred (but picked) lancers, much to the amazement of the 
 Seikhs. 
 
 After breakfast I called to see the missionaries who had not 
 yet returned from Loodheana, 
 
 At home I have been practising rifle-shooting in the area of 
 
 F 's house, an old mosque about one hundred and fifty feet 
 
 square. This evening I dined with the 15th Irregular Cavalry 
 mess. 
 
 Nov. 27ih. — This morning had the usual daylight drive. We 
 drove to the Shalimar Gardens. They were laid out by Shah 
 Jehan, and are very extensive, and ornamented with numerous 
 fountains, arranged to form successive cascades, with tanks and 
 jets. In their pristine beauty, they must have been exquisite. 
 They are now being repaired under F 's supervision. 
 
364 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 When I return from Caslimere they will probably be completed. 
 The basins of many are of white marble. They are taken care of 
 by an hereditary gardener, who backsheeshes his opponents with 
 flowers and fruits, to mollify their indignation, at the loss of so 
 much rent. 
 
 They grow trees here for transplanting — tree-planting now 
 being quite " the rage" in India, especially the Jamur, which is 
 most valuable for manufacturing into variovis articles for carriages 
 and other vehicles. The Seikhs, during their wars, cut down 
 most of the fine timber for gun carriages, military wagons, etc. 
 
 Back to the city, which was the ancient Lahore, when con- 
 quered by the Mussulmans, and even during their day it is 
 supposed to have been many miles in circuit. On getting home 
 
 I found a cousin of F 's, one of the A 's, a numerous 
 
 family of six brothers, all here in civil or military service. 
 
 To-day to church ; quite a turn-out morning and afternoon, 
 for so small a place. The church is a tomb, like most of the 
 residences here. Our house is a tomb, and in the rear a Fakeer 
 (religious beggar) occasionally gives us dulcet strains on his 
 
 tom-tom drum. A dined here, and has invited us all to 
 
 dine at his — the artillery mess — at " Meer-and-Meer," Wed- 
 nesday night. 
 
 Nov. 28th. — This morning went out looking for saddle and 
 bridle for my tour, but I was quite unsuccessful. The servant has 
 arrived with my things. At the Botanical Garden we saw some 
 new-fashioned wells and flowers, and I am now packing up for 
 my Cashmere trip. Unfortunately I could not get the Coolies 
 off with my things to-night. 
 
 The preparations are almost for a Siberian winter. In crossing 
 the Himalayas the cold is felt so severely from the snow, and 
 the transition is so sudden from these low, hot countries. It is 
 tolerably cool here now, however. Winter clothes and fires in 
 the evening are very necessary for comfort, though out-of-doors 
 in the day-time the weather is warm. 
 
INSPECTION DAY AT A JAIL. 365 
 
 Nov. 2^th. — My people were all en route for Caslimere this 
 morning by a little after daylight. They were Cashmerians, 
 ■who are stout, able-bodied men, and like to return to their coun- 
 try, when certain of coming out again ; or are under the protection 
 of Europeans, for Goolaub Singh has guards stationed in the 
 mountains to prevent his people escaping from the country. He 
 exercises such tyranny, that all escape who can. 
 
 I shall start on Thursday at mid-day for Goojrat, by dak, and 
 thence in the saddle to Bimber, where I shall overtake my men, 
 about one hundred miles ahead, on the border of Cashmere. 
 
 After starting my men, F and I walked to the jail. It is 
 
 inspection day, and his turn to visit the place. I saw some of 
 the men twisting grass rope by hand. One prisoner complained 
 
 to F that it blistered his hands — evidently a gentleman 
 
 vagabond. Others were grinding grain, and many were spinning 
 or weaving cotton. The weavers sat on the ground, with their 
 feet in a hole. Most of the prisoners "are up" for cattle-lifting, 
 a profession as honorable among them, as it formerly was for 
 
 the Scotch borderers. I told F that he, W , and 
 
 the Governor-General should have a strong symjDathy for so 
 home-like a profession. 
 
 The cattle-tenders attain great dexterity in tracking the cattle 
 and thieves, like our Indians. Now that Thuggery has been dis- 
 covered to exist in the Punjaub, the cattle-tenders are of much 
 
 service among the police. W and F are both 
 
 engaged in trying Thuggery cases. One Thuggery was com- 
 mitted nearly before their door, the other about half a mile 
 distant; in both cases on natives. 
 
 After breakfast, I called on M to bid good-bye. He 
 
 is to send me a Perwanur from his office, and obtain another 
 from Goolaub Singh's Vakeel, or agent, here, to facilitate my 
 journey. 
 
 Nov. SOlk. — This morning a sunrise walk. After breakfast to 
 the Botanical Gardens for a sketch ; but the sight of the prettiest 
 
366 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 native girl I have seen in India, drove all artistic intentions out 
 of my head. I then wandered through the garden, pilfering 
 some seeds for you. 
 
 This evening we all three drove down to the artillery mess at 
 
 Mere-and-Mere, to dine with A . It is five miles distant. 
 
 That place being healthier than this, has been chosen for the can- 
 tonments. Around Lahore, there is very little foliage to be seen 
 — ^barely a green leaf We had a joleasant dinner. The mail is 
 in, and no war as yet. 
 
 F says just before I arrived, there was a grand meeting 
 
 of all the high civilians and native dignitaries at Umritzur, to 
 settle a tariff of dower, which is the most troublesome matter to 
 be arranged in the country, and the great cause of female infanti- 
 cide, as it is considered disgraceful to have unmarried daughters : 
 and the inability to give a dower with a daughter prevents her 
 being married. After much discussion, it was settled that the 
 scale of dower should be reduced, and the lowest be two shilHngs 
 (four shillings of our money) ! 
 
 This subject is one of frequent litigation. The parents engage 
 the children, and the family of the boy make presents from time 
 to time to the girl. She perhaps dies before she attains fourteen, 
 and is married. Then the boy's family insist on the presents 
 being returned, or the girl's family giving another daughter in 
 the place of the one that has died ; or if the boy dies, then his 
 family require the presents to be returned, unless the girl's family 
 consent to take his brother, if he has one. Sometimes they are 
 married as children, and the boy dies before they have grown 
 up and lived together as man and wife, which is not done until 
 the girl is fourteen and the boy older. In this event, as a widow, 
 she cannot marry. This state of society produces much of the 
 
 licentiousness so prevalent in India. This morning F 's 
 
 butler returned after an absence of several days, instead of one 
 
 day as he had asked leave for. F asked him, as we sat 
 
 at breakfast table, what made him stay away so long. He said 
 the girl his son was to be married to, had "gummy hogard" 
 
THE SIKHS. 367 
 
 (gone dead), and lie had to stay and arrange for another sister to 
 take her place, and it was " arranged all right now." 
 
 Dec. Isi, 1 353. — This day last year, I was half-way to Palmyra, 
 with a raging fever ; and the year before, I believe, I was on the 
 same day, enjoying quarantine penance at El-Arish, in the Short 
 Desert, half-way to Cairo. This morning, being again iinsuccess- 
 fal in my efforts to get a saddle, I will have to try the bare back 
 or blanket, on the ponies over the hills of Cashmere. However, 
 I expect to walk much of the time. Now, after I despatch all 
 business, getting money from the bank, etc., I shall post north- 
 ward by dhooly after my men. 
 
 1 believe I forgot to mention, that all Sikhs bear the name of 
 " Singh," as an appendage to their names. They have no very 
 special kind of religion, but more of Hindoo than anything else, 
 and venerating the cow more than the Hindoos do. They are 
 very fanatic, and swear on the book of rites called " Grunth," to 
 observe the rules of their religion. Although not very numerous, 
 they managed to get possession, and sovereignty of this part of 
 the country. 
 
 A large portion of the forces Eunjeet Singh and his predeces- 
 sors brought into the field, were from the hill country, where the 
 tribes delight in a " scrimmage," as much as if their first breath 
 was drawn in Tipperary. 
 
 Dec. 2c?, DoLTA-lSTuGGUR. — I was jolted along slowly all last 
 night, and reached Vizeerabad at twelve to-day. Passed two of 
 my Coolies coming into town, and continued on to Goojrat about 
 six miles farther. Not finding the Commissioner at his house, I 
 hunted him up, and found he was holding cutcherry ; so I saw 
 
 F 's other friend, the Deputy Commissioner, who took me 
 
 to his bachelor quarters, in one of the portals of the city-gate — a 
 building three stories high. He gave me breakfast at the fashion- 
 able hour of half past one o'clock, and sent on my other traps 
 that I had brought in the dhooly, by some Coolies. As I had 
 
368 FEOM WALL STEEET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 been prevented from getting servants at Laliore, he sent out a 
 man to look for some, who soon returned with a very nice looking 
 fellow, a beastie, (a sort of man-chambermaid) who brings water 
 
 and does general work. He had lived with F 's brother, 
 
 and having an excellent character, I took him. 
 
 The other servant, a kitmagar, I could not get, as the only one 
 
 in the place had gone to Vizeerabad this morning. C 
 
 offered me his horse as far as Bimber, and sent the syce (groom) 
 and grass-cutter on ahead. He then despatched my dhooly on to 
 Eawul Pindee to meet me as I come out of Cashmere — quite a 
 lot of business arrangements! 
 
 Then we went to the top of the house to see the battle-fields 
 of Chillianwallah and Goojrat. The former, in which the Eng- 
 lish under Lord Gough were defeated, though the natives did not 
 understand military matters sufficiently to take advantage of it, 
 for the English did not run away as the natives do when defeated. 
 The other, the final battle, fought during the Punjaub campaign 
 of ^49. Mounting my horse, I was off after my people. 
 
 I shortly after crossed the Chenaub river, the greater part of 
 which is now dry, the balance bridged by boats. In the wet 
 season, it is three or four miles wide, and sometimes occupies 
 eight hours in crossing. I overtook my men just after dark. At 
 seven we reached a small village, where after waiting a quarter of 
 an hour, the cutwal appeared, spear in hand. He said this was 
 not a good place for camping, and marched us to another village 
 a mile distant. Entering the gate, we passed through the town, 
 where I saw a man sitting in his shop reading to a gaping crowd — 
 a realization of the Arabian Nights Tales. Here we encamped 
 on the opposite side of the town, and got the tent pitched by nine, 
 — the wind blowing a gale and threatens rain. 
 
 Dec. 3c?, Bimber. — This morning at daylight, it was not only 
 cloudy and threatening, but did rain a little. However, by the 
 time a "murghi grill" had been disposed of, the clouds had 
 cleared away and the sun shining brightly. The road was a 
 
ENTRANCE INTO CASHMERE. 369 
 
 straight line for miles, and turnpiked. Mj new man is a capital 
 fellow. On a distant hill in the mountains, I saw a country-seat 
 of Goolaub Singhs. There is plenty of snow on the mountains, 
 and I fear it will be awful cold. 
 
 This afternoon crossed the borders of the Punjaub into Cash- 
 mere — a wide expanse of uncultivated soil. Eiding by the side 
 of a small stream, I saw a beautiful, plumed king-fisher not much 
 larger than a humming-bird, dive and bring out a mummy. I 
 rode through the valley to Bimber, a small town on a low hill. 
 After some wandering, I found the travellers' stopping-place, a 
 regular stable-looking affair. So I amused myself eating an 
 orange until my people came up. While waiting, I had a visit 
 from the two sons of the Governor of the place — I supposed from 
 their rich necklaces. They were boys about 16 and 18. Soon 
 after the cutwal arrived, and handed me three rupees, which for 
 the moment I did not understand, quite forgetting the custom of 
 these people of making a form of presenting a visitor with money, 
 which he always declines. M}' tent was soon pitched, and just 
 as I am finishing my journal, a jackal serenade has commenced,, 
 one brute having taken up a position not 20 yards from my tent. 
 
 Dec. 4:th, NowsHERA (20 coss, 2-i miles), — This morning up and 
 off by half-past seven. My people were \sLzy. I've got a horse 
 for to-day, who has the charming habit of kicking every few min- 
 utes, at all sorts of real and imaginary objects. A mile out of town 
 I found the chokidar was not in the party, and I had to wait and 
 send back for him, and thus lost an hour. Continuing on, crossed 
 a small stream, and an hour after we were chmbing up the straight 
 side of a mountain — a regular pull over slippery rocks and loose 
 stones. 
 
 Two hours later, reached the pass,- where we found some police 
 officers stationed to prevent the Cashmerians from leaving the 
 country. I can't say how many hills we' have ascended and 
 descended in reaching it. At this place I found a man with 
 Madeira nuts, and bought some to pass time with until my people 
 
 24 
 
370 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 came up. We then descended into a sweet valley, and stopped 
 to lunch at a miserable, deserted mud tenement, used by travel- 
 lers. At half past three, pushed on much against the inclination 
 of my people, passing an old deserted serai (caravansary), with a 
 fine entrance ; and just at dusk began to ascend the mountain. As 
 we reached the top, it was perfectly dark — literally " darkness 
 visible " — not a star to be seen, and the only sign of life, the 
 torches of wanderers looking like fire-flies in the distance. 
 
 As we began to descend, we met a man with a torch. The men 
 immediately seized him, I persuaded him by promise of pay, to 
 accompany us. After we had gone a mile, two of the Coolies 
 were missing ; and going back to look for them, the man, (the last 
 Cooly,) let his light go out and escaped ; so we became our own 
 torch-bearers, and trustiug to the men joining me in the morning, 
 we proceeded, with an occasional illumination from the dry grass 
 on the roadside, which the men set fire to for lighting some 
 difficult path for those in the rear. Luckily there were great 
 numbers of pine trees, from which we got cones to burn, and thus 
 on up and down. 
 
 At eleven o'clock, we stopped at a fakeer's (a religious beggar) 
 solitary tenement, to buy some firewood for torches. Without 
 stirring from his bed he shouted that he had none, and so on we 
 went, collecting what we could that was dry ; for with our other 
 troubles we had sundry heavy showers, and appearance of more. 
 
 At half-past twelve, we crossed a small stream, and in a few 
 minutes more found another fakeer whose door happening to be 
 open : we pushed in and helped ourselves to torch wood, and then 
 came on to this building — a bungalow I suppose, its dignified 
 title, though very airy on all sides : and now we find the missing 
 Coolies have all my cooking utensils, and the greater part of my 
 provisions. However, I prevailed over my servant's caste scru- 
 ples to make me a little meat biscuit soup in his tin cup, and at 
 half past three in the morning I've just done dinner, and am 
 getting ready for bed. 
 
 All of us are well fagged out, having come twenty -four miles, 
 
 I 
 
BARADYAH. 371 
 
 twentj-tliree of which I walked. The horse was too fatiguing, 
 besides the risk of breaking my legs or neck, for twice he fell on 
 the rocks, and rolled over on me — luckily with no damage, but a 
 few bruises and tight squeezing. And yet he was a wondrous 
 clever brute too, in bad roads ; but I've never seen any quite as 
 bad as these. Though a good walker, between the bad road, 
 my bruised legs, and slow walking, I feel pretty well " done up" 
 for one day. 
 
 Dec. bth, Baradyah. — (10 coss.) — This morning I had an 
 interview with the cutwal before I rose, expressive of my 
 different wants, horses, Coolies, etc. I rose at half-past nine, the 
 day beautifully pleasant. I find the house is in the midst of a 
 fruit garden, with great numbers of apricot, plantain, and other 
 hot and cold climate fruits. The flower beds are brilliant with 
 marigolds and artemisias in full bloom, and the entire place a 
 pretty little valley. Half a mile distant the town, and towering 
 above all else, an old fort. 
 
 Early this morning my two Coolies came in, together with 
 some friends, who, to get in and out of Cashmere, had put them- 
 selves under my wing, as the best chance to come here and see 
 their families. 
 
 At twelve I started my people off again, while I waited for 
 one of my new Coolies to go and get his breakfast ; and I made 
 him leave his blanket as a pledge of his speedy return. Waiting 
 patiently an hour for the chokidar to arrive, in despair I started 
 off with the Cooly and my head servant. 
 
 We found a guide by the way, and while waiting for him to 
 get his blanket, the Cooly laid down the bedstead he was carry- 
 ing, and when we were not looking he bolted; thus we lost 
 another half hour, and while the servant looked for another 
 Cooly, I watched the guide : for the rascals run off without the 
 least reason, even after they have sought the employment and 
 not received their money. 
 
 Presently the servant appeared, lugging a Cooly along, who 
 
372 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE, 
 
 seemed to be quite reconciled, wlien I assured him he should 
 be well paid. So off we went, I on foot, unable to procure a 
 horse by buying or hiring. 
 
 Nearly all day we have been travelling by the side of a stream, 
 which the natives call Mungle Debar river. On over the hills, 
 and again coming to the river, passed a small fort, evidently built 
 to guard or command the valley. But unfortunately it is itself 
 commanded by every hill. 
 
 At dusk I stopped and got a bundle of faggots to light us on 
 the way. After trying in vain to get fire from my rifle, I dis- 
 covered a hut, and so on, and at eight stopped at a fakeer's to 
 beg some more fuel ; and then on to a large caravansary or serai, 
 where, to my surprise, I did not find my people. I told the 
 guide he must take me to the next place. He coolly observed 
 we would have to cross the river, and I had better sleep here — a 
 proposition I negatived immediately, not relishing the idea of 
 sleeping on a charpai (native bedstead without bed or bed clothes, 
 and that, too, supperless). So we started back, and he stopped, 
 as I suppose, to arrange his torch, and. the Cooly seated himself 
 by his side, while I and my servant took seats on a couple of 
 stones. 
 
 I sat shivering, until I thought they might have arranged half- 
 a-dozen torches, and going to see what was the matter, I found 
 they were enjoying a fire they had kindled ; I soon put an end 
 to that. Soon after, the guide lost his way, and then said he did 
 not know it, but there was a jemindar (landowner) near, who 
 did know the way, and that we had better go to him. 
 
 "We retraced our steps ; reaching his house or hovel, the guide 
 pushed open the door " sans ceremonie," when I saw three or 
 four men sleeping on charpaies around the room. In one corner 
 stood some cattle feeding, in the centre a few embers burning, 
 and by the side of the fire, a nearly naked native ryot (tiller of 
 the soil), enjoying his hookah. The guide made known our 
 wants, when, without a word of objection, he resigned his pipe 
 to the guide, began to chop up faggots, and throwing an old 
 
THE PLEASURES OF TRAVEL. 373 
 
 cotton cloth over his shoulders, started out to pilot us across the 
 river. What " a precious row" a man would have made in the 
 United States or England, at such a midnight summons ! 
 
 In a few minutes we reached the bank of the river, and walking 
 across the dry bed, came to the water, about one hundred yards 
 wide, and from two to three feet deep. My people were on the 
 opposite side, and seeing us, rushed down the bank with arms 
 full of straw, which they soon had in a bright blaze. My last 
 guide, taking me on his back, carried me across the stream ; and 
 the water being deep and rapid, he was very near giving me a 
 ducking, just as we reached the middle. But I luckily got over 
 dry, and gave him what the natives considered a munificent 
 present, a day's wages, two annas (six cents) ! ! I expect you 
 will smile at the amount, but the poor wretch's gratitude was 
 amusing and painful. lie appeared as though he had never 
 seen so much money before in his life, making all sorts of 
 salaams, and touching his head to my feet. 
 
 Our crossing would have made a fine sketch in oil. On land- 
 ing, my beastie, whom I have converted into a bearer, from 
 having little occasion for his services otherwise, and having been 
 in that capacity before, is very useful, with great glee took me 
 to see what nice rooms there were in the house. 
 
 Making my way over sleeping Coolies and cattle, with an 
 occasional blazing fire threatening a general conflagration, we 
 reached the rooms, which, from appearances, had lately been 
 tenanted by cattle. I ordered my tent to be pitched forthwith, 
 much to beastie's amazement at my want of taste, and knowledge 
 of comfort. And now this roaring little torrent, that has been 
 sounding so pleasantly all day, will be a freezing lullaby. 
 
 I took out my journal, and Hugel's Tour in Cashmere, made at 
 about the same season of the year, but had only got a few lines 
 of my journal written, when I fell asleep, and was woke by the 
 clatter of knives and forks. How you would have laughed at 
 what I call pleasure, to have seen me coiled up in the middle of 
 my bed, with two coats on, and a thick great capote around me. 
 
874 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 my head adorned with a red night-cap, eating my sumptuous 
 dinner, of a plateful of what a Frenchman, or any other man, 
 would have called soup maigre^ made from the remains of a grilled 
 fowl that had done duty at three previous meals, eked out by the 
 liver and gizzard of another. I was too cold to get off the bed 
 to carve ; and the whole topped off with some raspberry jam, 
 and a tough dough cake, which the very servants at home would 
 not have touched ; and instead of cafe noir, it was the noir, for 
 the cows had gone to bed. 
 
 Such are some of the pleasures of travel. I've just been 
 interrupted, by my guide of to-day coming in to ask for clothes. 
 I told him I had none to spare, and I was myself a shivering 
 evidence of the truth of the assertion. 
 
 Dec. 6ih, Eajowrie. — I had an awful cold night, the wind 
 coming down from a range of snow-covered mountains, visible 
 about thirty miles distant. After trying in vain to get a horse, 
 or a cutwal, I set off on a fifteen-mile march, half-disabled by a 
 sore foot. 
 
 Our march to-day has wound through valleys, and by the side 
 of the same stream as yesterday, crossing it many times in its 
 meandering course. Three times my men were obliged to ford 
 it, and I too — ^but on the back of a Cooly. I saw quantities of 
 fish from twelve to fifteen inches long in this stream, and a number 
 of men — sporting ryots — perhaps, catching them with nets. The 
 only thing that looks the same all over the world ! 
 
 I've just been instructing my servant how to broil me a fish, 
 for my only kettle is appropriated to soup, and I've not yet got 
 to using the tea-kettle for more than one purpose. 
 
 I saw a water-snake in the stream to-day — it looked like home 
 scenes. This afternoon saw one of my Coolies with an armful of 
 radishes, as large as my wrist ; he had begged them, and I levied 
 tribute on him. 
 
 The Cashmere valley differs in one respect from every part of 
 India. In India they always live in villages or towns, while here, 
 
••^'•'''in r,i; " ■ 
 
 ^■«|i .^ ,. ... 
 
 »fi >IWiiil'' 
 
 lllii ^^" 
 
 '^^ 
 
 1!IL 
 
 irtifri;#.p%s: 
 
 ;i I II 
 
 '■li^ 
 
 >'" 'lill 
 
 
 V>i.1^i 
 
 
 iili 
 
 A» vV ■Mm i'S; .■' 
 
 / 
 
 1 
 
 IW 
 
 rt ^11 -fff- 
 
 '"'■m 
 
 ■ ■ 'til '•iilMl 
 
 'lll'i'li''' 
 II i!i 111 
 
 ::ll|r ■'.«; 
 
FACE OF THE COUNTEY. 375 
 
 on every side peering from among the trees, on the mountain side, 
 or boldly conspicuous on some naked rock, are the huts or hovels 
 of the present ryot occupants and the ruins of former ones. 
 Occasionally a large house will indicate the residence of a jemin- 
 dar (owner of the land). The country is badly cultivated, and 
 almost depopulated by the tyranny that has existed for some 
 years past. 
 
 I've passed but one village to-day, and that about two hours 
 ago. Eeaching this place, a small town, I find the usual resort 
 of travellers occupied by the Eajah's troops — a cut-throat-looking 
 set of noisy rascals. Not having any professional business now, 
 and perhaps having heard that "music hath charms to soothe the 
 savage breast" — they have found occupation in singing choruses 
 in "Dick Swiveller's" style, " each man to the tune he knows 
 best." I managed to get shelter by fastening up my tent in one 
 corner of a shed, where I am enjoying " otium cum dignitate " as 
 best I can, half suffocated with smoke. 
 
 Bee. 1th, TuNNER. — After a noisy night, I rose at six. The 
 cutwal not coming when I sent for him, I went and brought him 
 along. After sundry threats I reduced him to terms, when he 
 started off, saying he would try and find me a horse — the last I 
 saw of him. So off I went again with my lame foot. 
 
 The path to-day has been pretty good, winding through a 
 valley, and several times crossed by a mountain stream. Though 
 the snow-clad mountains were full in sight, I found my umbrella 
 a pleasant relief from the sun — dangerous even in Cashmere in 
 mid-winter. 
 
 For several days past I have been in the habit of cooling my 
 head by wetting it as I crossed the streams, though I am wearing 
 one of the best kinds of solar topics (hat), a sort of casque, made 
 of thick straw, with sloping rim, a hole in the top, and pad under 
 it to protect my head; an inner ring with pad to rest on the head 
 and connected with the hat itself by small straw rings, and the 
 whole covered with cotton batting, and a roll of cotton batting. 
 
376 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE, 
 
 an inch and a half thick around the hat where the crown joins the 
 rim, to protect the temples — the part most liable to be affected by 
 a coup de soleil. 
 
 In the snow on the mountain sides, I saw great numbers of 
 cypress-looking trees. Some people were literally thrashing grain, 
 by beating small sheaves against a board. Towards night we 
 passed a ver}- large "serai," and came on to this place which I 
 reached by dusk, where I share the second story of a shanty 
 with my servants, and a lot of Sepoys, who until my arrival had 
 held quiet possession. 
 
 The place is so full of smoke (tobacco and wood) that I present 
 .a most dolorous appearance. In the march to-day I passed a tree 
 with flowers resembling the common red honeysuckle. Our 
 anarch was about the usual length, fourteen or fifteen miles. 
 
 Dec. 8ih, Koortee. — This morning I had a difficulty with my 
 men, who refused to stir till I advanced half-a-month's pay besides 
 what I had already given. Not being able to get them to come 
 to my terms, I had to agree to theirs, as I could not get enough 
 new Coolies to take their places, especially in this spot. However, 
 I got a miserable apology for a horse, and off we started, my two 
 ^servants ahead of the train, and I bringing up the rear. 
 
 Quite a respectable number, since with my two servants and self 
 we count seventeen, as everything, tents, luggage of clothes and 
 provisions, eatables and drinkables have all to be carried on the 
 Coolies' backs. In a few minutes the beastie came running back 
 to me, saying one of my hired Coolies had run away ; so I sent 
 him to look up another, while I watched the "traps." 
 
 While waiting I discovered an old tank with some curious 
 sculpture, representing a procession of knights in armor mounted 
 on horses with housings, which I hastily sketched. Then up the 
 mountains. Just as I, bringing up the rear, was commencing 
 the ascent, the men set up a shout, and there was such a rustling 
 :and shaking I could not imagine what the difficulty was. I 
 thouo;ht it might be a land-slide. 
 
DISCOMFORTS. 377 
 
 Presently I caught a glimpse of distant monkeys scampering 
 off — of which there must have been over a thousand when my 
 men first shouted. As I approached the summit I saw a patri- 
 archal monkey "taking an observation" through some branches 
 about two hundred yards off, so " drew a bead " for his head — the 
 only part visible, and dropped him, the men also dropping their 
 loads, ran and picked him up, and we all started off again, the 
 men having an afternoon's topic before them — my skill in rifle- 
 shooting. 
 
 To-day we have crossed the " Arutna Punjal" mountain. It 
 was covered with deep snow, half melted, making the ascent and 
 descent horribly disagreeable, being very steep, besides wet and 
 slippery. 
 
 Crossing this mountain, I saw great numbers of horse chestnut 
 trees and others resembling the white oak and elm. I have col- 
 lected three more varieties of seeds, one of which I found near 
 a stream — a curious cluster of red pods, which I shall try and 
 preserve in its original state. 
 
 Descending to a valley, I wound along between mountains 
 covered with verdure to their very summits. The sides of these 
 mountains were dotted with numerous little cottages, in terraces, 
 all looking as if they would take a slide together. 
 
 I reached this place at six. It is a quadrangle surrounded by 
 buildings of the poorest kind. They wished me to pitch my tent 
 in the centre — perhaps the place of honor ; but as it was a mass 
 of deep mud I feared I should not get out again. Besides, I 
 might get damp feet ; so I declined, and have got a room — such 
 as it is, dismal and dirty, and nothing in the way of eatables to 
 be bought. I have had to satisfy an appetite whetted by twenty 
 miles of mountain climbing, with some poor soup and a little 
 rice, half of a " murghi grill " and a dough-cake lie on the table — 
 but they must make the " dejeuner a la fourchette." 
 
 The scenery to-day has been more beautiful than usual. At 
 one time, on the top of the snowy range, it was absolutely mag- 
 nificent. A single coup cCceil was the valley I had just passed 
 
378 FEOM WALL STEEET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 througb, side by side with the foaming torrent rushing through 
 grassy meads for many miles, and on either side range after 
 range of lofty snow-capped mountains, with forest-clad sides, 
 the distant view terminated by the blending of mountain and 
 misty horizon. 
 
 The setting sun, this afternoon, as it gilded the mountain 
 snow summits, cast momentary rainbow tints that strongly 
 reminded me of a beautiful view I once had of the Bernese Alps 
 from the terrace at Berne, after the clearing up of a storm, 
 
 Dec. 9th, Punch. — Off again at eight. Our march to-day has 
 been through beautiful valleys, many of whose hills are terraced 
 to the summits, though at present but thinly peopled. The 
 work shows strikingly the labors of a former and denser popula- 
 tion. The valleys are also terraced, and now flooded for rice 
 and grain. We got here at four this afternoon. The day has 
 been very warm. Only one incident ; I fell into the stream, the 
 source of the Pir-Punjal river, while trying to step from one slip- 
 pery stone to another with my rifle on my back. Luckily the 
 water was only two feet deep, so I did not get very much wet, 
 but too much so to be comfortable, with the wind coming down 
 from the snow mountains. In coming in I passed an old Mus- 
 sulman fort now in ruins, — formerly it guarded the plain. 
 
 I am quartered in one end of a very civil old fakeer's esta- 
 blishment. He kindly brought me plantains and nuts; then 
 showed me a number of certificates, among them one declaring 
 him to be a "humbug" (a stupid display of wit on an ignorant 
 man). Soup maigre from murghi grill remains, and new murghi 
 grill for dinner. How would you like to have them generally 
 twice a day for months, and badly cooked at that ? They are 
 the only thing to be got. I have been trying to persuade one of 
 my servants to go to the town and hunt up a butcher, to set him 
 to kill a sheep, offering to pay handsomely for half of it. But 
 the brute is lazy, and not wishing to go, presents some invincible 
 obstacles in the way of their doing it. The other servant is sick 
 
A fakeer's cat. 379 
 
 — but as liis symptoms are not in my doctor's book, I administer 
 by guess — he takes medicine beautifully! Overhauling my 
 medicines, I find the damp weather of last summer phizzed off 
 all my seidlitz powders. 
 
 I have been repeatedly interrupted in my journal by stopping 
 to drive out a big cat — part of the fakeer's family — whose dis- 
 position is evidently predatory, notwithstanding the holy cha- 
 racter of its master, and I fear it may be to the detriment of to- 
 morrow's breakfast. Once I started after him pistol in hand, and 
 would have shot him, only I feared I might kill two brutes, the 
 cat and a Cooly, by mistake, instead of one, which would delay 
 to-morrow's travel. For I hold it is not sacrilege to kill a fakeer's 
 cat that steals. A holy man like him should have an orderly, 
 decent, and well-behaved family, of which I hold this said 
 cat to be an unworthy member. All the evening my Coolies 
 have been making up shoe leather, of straw rope, for sandals, as 
 this kind does not slip on ice or snow. 
 
 Dec. 10th, Allahabad. — I was woke up this morning long 
 before daybreak by the noise of my Coolies, who were hard at 
 work cobbling their straw-rope shoes. After lots of trouble I 
 started them off. The roaring of the mountain torrents in the 
 neighborhood of Punch, being like the ocean surf after a storm. 
 
 All day we have been winding through mountain passes and 
 ravines, or climbing mountains. Owing to the slowness of my 
 men I am obliged to stop in this place, which is only three quar- 
 ters of a day's march, as it is too late to attempt to cross some 
 snowy mountains ahead. However, not having been able to-day 
 to obtain but one horse, I gave that to my sick servant, and was 
 not very sorry to stop after sixteen miles of such travelling as 
 we have had. 
 
 Really I fear my trip into Cashmere is to be a pedestrian one. 
 To-day it has been damp and cool. I have been trying in vain 
 to instruct my servant in the art and mystery of making "John- 
 ny cake," but I can't get him to make it of the proper materials. 
 
380 FEOM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 he considering it beneath, the dignity of his master to eat Indian 
 meal (they grow Indian corn here) like a Cooly, and so brings 
 in a compound of grease and flour that would give a Eosedale 
 darkie convulsions ! 
 
 Dec. 11th, Hyderabad. — This morning I found the horse of 
 yesterday and owner had both vanished without any reason, 
 though only half paid ; so sick and well were all off" on foot. 
 
 We had a slippery scramble for four hours over muddy hills 
 and snowy passes before we were able to reach the summit, 
 though we had lodged last night half way up. On our way we 
 passed a number of Coolies and petty traders. 
 
 The snow was from two to three feet deep, but the air was 
 mild, with very little wind. 
 
 The view was magnificently grand, though slightly varied, 
 mostly of range upon range of lofty snow-covered mountains, 
 whose sides were covered with lofty firs called "deodars," or 
 " Gifts of God ;" which grow large, and vary in size from two to 
 three feet in diameter. 
 
 Our descent was rapid ; the path steep, slippery, and winding, 
 so we came down per force on a trot, though great care was 
 necessary, for if we had missed the short sudden turns, we would 
 have had a disagreeable leap into the ravine, a thousand feet 
 below. 
 
 Much of the snow had turned into glazed ice, and descending 
 at an angle of forty-five, it was rather difficult to keep the centre 
 of gravity. By luck, we managed to get here in safety at half 
 past two, passing great numbers of chestnuts, firs, and other 
 fine forest trees. Arriving thus early, I have kept the rest of 
 the day for Sunday, and ordered a sheep to be killed. But I 
 had to inspect the cutting up and division, as I promised the men 
 a part. 
 
 My stupid butler spoiled one of the legs by cutting it in two, 
 so I gave him a lesson in the butler's art, by wallopping him 
 alongside of the head with the said leg, and then gave it to the 
 
"humbuggy very much." 381 
 
 men, thinking, perliajDS, it miglit lose mc my caste, if I eat it after 
 it had touched him ! I then told him to get up the best dinner 
 he could, while I digested two of Dr. Edwards's sermons. 
 
 The Coolies are having a regular jollification over the mutton 
 I gave them, and having dined, they are doing their psalmody 
 in Hafiz's sonsrs ! 
 
 What do you, good people, who pay a shilling a pound for 
 lamb, say to the pick of a flock for thirty-seven cents ! True, 
 it is neither South-down nor Fulton market, but it is Cash- 
 merean, and especially good after a fortnight of soup maigre and 
 murghi grills. 
 
 Dec. 12ih, Uri. — I passed a very comfortable night in my 
 verandah, with tent and bed-cover for screens, notwithstanding 
 my vis-d-vis was a snow-covered mountain and a noisy mountain 
 torrent between us to "keep the jpeace." 
 
 This morning the people of the house were making a great 
 noise — alternately battling with the Coolies, then turning to me 
 would exclaim most supplicatingly, " Sahib, Sahib." I asked the 
 head servant what the difficulty was, he coolly replied, without 
 looking up from his work, " Nothing, only they humbuggy very 
 much." On inquiring of the people, I found the "humbuggy 
 very much " was that the sixteen Coolies refused to pay for their 
 provisions of yesterday and this morning. So I made them 
 "settle up." 
 
 Our .march to-day has been up, down, and over slippery, icy, 
 muddy hills ; often requiring hands, feet, and cane to keep one's 
 footing. 
 
 I passed some people threshing Indian corn with a single long 
 stick — the old style with us. Part of the road lay along the 
 brink of magnificent ravines. 
 
 At half-past one we reached this place, when my rascally 
 Coolies refused to go a step further. I tried to get others, but I 
 could not, the people all taking the part of my men. So I have 
 had to stop and thus lose half a day ! They have already made 
 
382 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 me lose three or four, which I can ill afford, as the -wet season 
 sets in at the north the early part of January, and makes traveh 
 ling very bad. 
 
 There is a curious bridge here, made of twisted twigs. There 
 is one rope very large, about a foot in breadth, for path, and two 
 side ones, as a rail, occasionally connected with the one you walk 
 on, by short bars — as it is a suspension bridge over a rapid, rush- 
 ing torrent, the Jhelum or Ancieyit Hydaspes^ about three or four 
 hundred feet wide, I have not a head quite steady enough to 
 attempt crossing it. 
 
 Opposite my domicil is a very lofty peak of the Pir Punjal. 
 There is quite a village here. Most of the places I have hereto- 
 fore stopped at have been only collections of fifteen or twenty 
 houses, sometimes not so many. 
 
 Dec. ISth, NowsHERA Serai. — At sun-rise (seven o'clock) I 
 was off again, as usual, on foot ; my two purwanurs have been 
 of precious little service to me. I have scarce rode altogether a 
 whole day since I entered Cashmere, and I think the only day I 
 had a horse, my servant was sick, and I let him have it. There 
 are two forts here — one on either side of the river, which borders 
 the place, and in fact our route, until we reach Shrenuggur, the 
 capital of Cashmere. 
 
 Crossing by a bridge a small stream that rushes foaming and 
 fretting into the Jlielum, we ascended a steep hill, and for several 
 miles after, our path lay along the verge of an almost precipitous 
 bank of two or three hundred feet in height — below the Jhelum 
 ghded swiftly, except as it furiously foamed and roared as it 
 swept rapidly over and through occasional rocks. The scenery 
 was superb — ^lofty mountains, some with snowy crests and others 
 a mass of green foliage from the lofty deodars, bounded the view 
 on all sides, except where some rugged rock boldly jutted out, 
 or scattered hamlets with their scanty patches of vegetation. 
 
 About four miles from Uri I passed the ruins of a very ancient 
 Hindoo temple, now overgrown with jungle, which I sketched. 
 
THE HYDASPES OF OLD. 383 
 
 Then some Cashmerean mercliants with apples and pears, which 
 I soon scented out. Stopping, I got a supply, and delicious they 
 were after an interlude of three years, "barring" the few which 
 I got at Madras and the steamer cockroaches eat up. 
 
 Shortly after I passed the small village of Bonea, and then 
 another ruined Hindoo temple, which I stopped to sketch, joining 
 my men again just as they reached this kennel of a serai — damp, 
 dark, and dirty, but warmer than a tent. I have been consoling 
 myself with a saddle of mutton ! As I have sat long enough, 
 coiled up in the middle of my charpai, shivering while I write 
 with my portfolio on my knee, I'll try if the inside of the bed 
 is any warmer, and so bid good night. 
 
 Dec. l^th. — Baramulla and Jhelum Eiver, (the Hydaspes 
 of old). — Off by daylight, and since I have been passing through 
 valleys and rocky formations, the latter in such regular layers 
 they looked like huge masses of petrified wood, my khansama, a 
 Cooly, and I leading the way. The Jhelum grew more tranquil 
 and less rapid as we approached Baramulla, which we reached 
 in about five hours on foot, a distance of twelve or thirteen miles. 
 
 We crossed two or three hills, one giving me a beautiful view 
 down the valley, while the distant snow-capped mountains and 
 fleecy clouds seemed almost one undivided mass, 
 
 Baramulla extends some distance on both sides of the river, 
 and is quite a large town, with large houses, many having pro- 
 jecting roofs. The second story generally recedes about two or 
 three feet, and the space being covered with earth and green grass 
 presents a very odd appearance. Here is where the few travel- 
 lers or officers who visit Cashmere, embark for a sail down the 
 river. 
 
 Engaged the best boat I could find, which is a long, narrow, 
 flat-bottomed affair, with a peaked roof of rush matting; the front 
 half thus roofed I occupy and locomote half crawling and 
 half walking from end to end of my domicil — my cloak or tent 
 forms the seat — the table two battened boards resting on the 
 
384 FKOM WALL STEEET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 cases of my gun and rifle, and the balance is appropriated to the 
 khansama and beastie. Here they cook and sleep. Behind them 
 is the end where the boatman, his wife, and three children lodge ; 
 and on the deck, in front, two of my CooHes enjoy the midnight, 
 with a mingled canopy of sky and blanket — the latter, though 
 less beautiful, is probably warmer. The rest of my Coolies I 
 have dismissed to get out of Cashmere as best they can — the 
 vagabonds ! 
 
 The river here is about 150 yards wide, a smooth but rather 
 rapid stream at present. The boat is "tracked." Shortly after 
 dark we stopped for the night on the . borders of a small lake — 
 the Wallar, The wild geese and ducks are giving us a charming 
 serenade — quite delightfully reminding me of home and sporting 
 there. 
 
 Dec 15th, Jhelum. — This morning we passed along the borders 
 of the lake — a sheet of water about eight miles by two. The 
 light breeze that ruffled its surface, somewhat retarded our speed — 
 for these aborigines row. Thousands of birds, cranes, geese, ducks, 
 snipe, and gulls darkened its surface or made the air discordant 
 with their (to me) delightful music, a "music of the spheres" 
 that's crazing to an aquatic sportsman. Passing through the lake 
 and a small island with a ruined temple, were again in the Jhelum 
 — and now — at anchor for the night. 
 
 The day has been lovely. The dark clouds of the morning as 
 they sat behind the snowy range, left, by their sudden disap- 
 pearance, an additional charm to this snowy barrier that encircles 
 OTir view. 
 
 I quite astonished my people to-day, with a bit of condescen- 
 sion they were not prepared for. The poor wretch of a Cooly 
 boy sat shivereing on the deck, with half a spark of fire in his 
 earthen pot (the people here carry a small earthen pot, like a 
 flower-pot, in a small basket, which they fill with coals and 
 ashes, and carry about with them wherever they go ; and it 
 answers the purpose of a fire and fire-place with most of them), 
 

THE CITY OF CASHMERE. 385 
 
 trying to keep himself warm witli its imaginary heat. So I 
 took up the affiiir, and carrying it through my cabin to the cook 
 room, told him to fill it, and I then took it to the boy again, 
 who was about as mueh puzzled what to make of this simple act 
 of good feeling and sympathy for the poor wretch's misery, as 
 the servants were. 
 
 In India they have no word or synonyme for gratitude, or 
 word for "thank you," as before the English came to their 
 country they had no occasion for either ; and when a kindness 
 is done them by their own people, it is for some ulterior object ; 
 and thus, they suspect every one else of the same interested 
 motive ; and instead of really thanking a European, they clasp 
 their hands and say. Ha! Sahib; but, nevertheless, they generally 
 suspect he has some ulterior object in view. This S3^stem is 
 carried out in all their relations of life. No native ever tells the 
 truth because it is the truths but because it hapjDcns to suit his 
 purpose best. He may perhaps gain something, or it makes no 
 difference either way ! Nor does he ever suspect an European 
 (I use the word European as being the distinctive word here for 
 every person who is not a native, as the word " Frank" is some- 
 times used to express all but Mohammedans) of telling the truth 
 for any other reason than self-interest. 
 
 Dec. 16//i, Cashmere, Kashmir, or properly Shrenuggur. 
 — At last I've reached this long anticipated scene — the pet 
 project of my tour ! This morning at sunrise there was a thick 
 haze, and as it cleared off, though I was only ten miles from the 
 city, I could see nothing but the snowy range that forms the 
 background of the valley. 
 
 At half-past eleven I came within sight of the Tukht-i-Suliman 
 (Throne of Solomon — a lofty hill on the farther side of the city), 
 , and the Hurri-Purvat and its fortress-capped crest. 
 
 "With this view before me, I made a bird's-eye sketch,, and 
 included in it a forest of tall poplars, that I mistook for the grove' 
 which Ackbar planted. 
 
 25 
 
386 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 A few minutes after, I passed one of the first marks of civiliza- 
 tion — tlie skeleton of some poor murderous wretch, I suppose, 
 who had been starved to death in a cage suspended from a 
 gibbet. Then passed under the seven bridges, made by logs 
 laid transversely for piers, and with bridges connecting them ; 
 they form main avenues of intercourse for the two parts of the 
 town, which are situated on the two sides of the river. 
 
 The houses generally present a miserable appearance ; occa- 
 sionally the residence of some wealthy man with his extensive 
 zenana (harem), whose apartments are closely latticed, like an 
 immense aviary or state prison; mosques with tall spires or 
 minarets, built of cedar (the deodar). 
 
 Then the Delawar-Khan-Bagh, where Jaquement, Vigne, and 
 Hugel successively lodged in the middle of the city, supposing 
 it to be divided equally by the river. By the side of this build- 
 ing stands a mosque. The river is narrow, perhaps an eighth of 
 a mile wide, and confined by stone walls and houses on both 
 sides, built on these walls to the very " extremest verge." Stone 
 steps frequently lead down to the water ; and near these steps 
 are great numbers of boats, many like the one I have ; others 
 without the covering, but in other respects the same ; and others 
 again, down to the smallest quantity of buoyancy capable of 
 floating man, secured to the banks. In the water are boxes for 
 men and women to bathe ; for ablutions, if one of their virtues 
 — often the only one. 
 
 I then passed the Shaherghur, formerly the residence of the 
 governor, now the treasury of Goolaub Singh. On up the river 
 by the city, I came to an open place, the approach to the coun- 
 try, where were half a dozen small bungalows for the ofiicers 
 who visit this place, and built by Goolaub Singh for their use, 
 perhaps to gain their good-will — no one knows but he, and 
 doubtless an ulterior object to be gained. He is too great a 
 ■villain to work without some object. 
 
 I took one ; my beastie picked out the best that was not occu- 
 pied. He had been here with F 's brother, and knew them 
 
LOW SCALE OF "WAGES. 387 
 
 all. None of them are prepared for cold weather, so I bought 
 three new mats of my boatman for 25. and 6d. ! to eke out my 
 scanty furniture. They nearly cover my parlor ! Then hiring 
 a boat, with two oarsmen or paddlers, for my stay, at twelve 
 cents a -day for boat and men ; and that is a high price too, so 
 
 you may imagine the scale of wages here. F gave IO5. 
 
 a month last year for the same affair. I then sent my servant to 
 the bazaar for a chair or two, some provisions, and wine or beer; 
 for owing to the warm weather when I left Lahore, I had neg- 
 lected it. When the man returned, he said he had asked six 
 storekeepers, and they did not have any beer, but one man said 
 he had a bottle of wine at his house he would send me. As for 
 the other things (native like), there was a holiday to-day, but 
 could get them to-morrow. It being so late when I got located 
 — to use an American term — I have not been out to see anything. 
 
 I have two neighbors — officers — who are spending the winter 
 here shooting. From my window a few minutes since, I saw a 
 fire on a distant mountain. It was either winding up or down, 
 but in this way — the blaze extended for half a mile, and 
 looked like a huge fiery serpent. 
 
 To-morrow I shall commence my sightseeing, after some 
 shopping for comforts in the bazaar. At present the tent is my 
 fauteuil, which, with a hot stone, supports the dignity of your 
 humble servant! The stone is my substitute for furnace and fire. 
 
 There are no fire-places in Cashmere! and a brazier is one 
 of the purchases in prospective. 
 
 Bee. 17;A.— This morning, after waiting in vain for Goolaub 
 Singh's moonshee, who was to have been here, I started with the 
 servant and the boat, for the town and bazaars, where I bought 
 a lot of chatties (earthen pots) for cooking, etc., and one for fire ; 
 then a lot of eatables. 
 
 I was in a native sugar manufactory — a curious affair. I tried 
 in vain for chairs, and have only a chance of some being finished 
 for me by to-morrow. 
 
388 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 I then passed under tlic various bridges (seven), built -witli 
 layers of cedar wood, tlie crevices being filled witli stone ; the 
 wood being laid transversely, they look like a funeral pile : it is 
 said tliey have stood in this way for more than five centuries ! 
 Leaving my servant to do the marketing, I went home, ajad took 
 a walk through the avenue of poplar trees — two-thirds of a mile 
 long, and planted more than a hundred years since. They are 
 not more than from one and a half to five feet apart ; they differ 
 from ours in the way they branch out, and in not having dead 
 wood. The avenue leads from the city to the foot of the Tukht- 
 i-Suliman, and the Drogshuh — the flood-gate of the canal lead- 
 ing from the lake of Cashmere to the Jhelum. 
 
 Then to my Cashmere domicil, where, with a capital dinner — 
 soup, canvas-back duck* — and a chatty of charcoal under my 
 feet, and feel I am in a fair way to be comfortable ; a prospective 
 chair — as peculiar as imagination can well picture — a new blanket 
 to wrap up in, a hot stone to my feet, and a chatty of coals to 
 heat the room by day, and to go under bed and keep that warm 
 by night. 
 
 Dec. IStk. — Last night was the most comfortable I have passed 
 since leaving Lahore. "Walking out, I made the acquaintance 
 
 of my neighbors — a Mr. P , of the Queen's 87th Regiment, 
 
 Royal Irish, Lord Cough's; Mr. P , of the Company's 
 
 service, a grandson of the Marquis of A ; and C , 
 
 also of the Company's service. They were engaged in superin- 
 tending the trying of some bears' grease, and in Indian fashion. 
 I introduced myself After a pleasant morning together, they 
 asked me to dine with them, and said there was to be a review 
 of the Maharajah's troops in the afternoon, and they would call 
 for me on their way. 
 
 They went with my servant to town. I left him to shop, 
 
 * I found, to my great surprise, that this luxury of the American market 
 is one of the privileges of this terrestrial paradise, so that Cashmere is endurable 
 even for a gourmand. 
 
GOOLAUB SINGH AND HIS TROOPS. 389 
 
 while I went to see the Budh-shah Mosque — an old ruin with a 
 granary. In the yard attached to it is a tombstone with a Per- 
 sian inscription — said to be Moorcraft's. Afterwards, on to an 
 old Hindoo temple in ruins. 
 
 Here is the tomb of Seynul-abd-al-Din, the second Mussulman 
 king of this country. He introduced the art of making glass, 
 weaving the celebrated shawls, etc. Then to the Jumma- 
 Musjid. This is a large, square building, of some 130 yards 
 square, with a fine portal on each side, supported on the inside 
 by cedar pillars. The building has a curious tower and spire, 
 more like a Presbyterian country church, than a mosque. This 
 building is very old, and built of the deodar cedar. 
 
 On the opposite side of the river is the Naya-Musjid, or New 
 Mosque, commenced by Nul-Jehan. It is of veined white mar- 
 ble, and unfinished. The interior is low and arched. It is now 
 used as a granary. 
 
 On my way home I met P and C , going to the 
 
 review, and joined them. The place was a large open plain 
 near the river, just below the Shahurghur — the old residence of 
 the kings and governors, and now used as such by Goolaub 
 Singh, the present Maharajah (Great King) — a half-fortified palace 
 on the river side. 
 
 On the ground we found the troops arrayed on the four sides 
 of a plain of perhaps six acres. There was cavalry, regular and 
 irregular, foot, and artillery, in every possible shade, color, style, 
 and cut of uniform ; some had the skirts of their coats separating 
 behind and closed before, like a frock coat wrong side before. 
 One fellow had a regular European black frock coat ; others, 
 yellow trowsers with gold stripes, blue coats, red foraging caps 
 with green band and peak, etc., etc. My memory serveth not to 
 relate all their odd fancies — however, the most of them wore 
 very sensible uniforms (in cut) for the hill work, and with the 
 usual leggings to strengthen the calf, and straw shoes to prevent 
 slipping on the ice. 
 
 In a few moments after we arrived, the Maharajah appeared, 
 
390 FROM "WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 in a palanquin, accompanied by his eldest grandson, a cliubby 
 little fellow of five or six years, in whom he takes great pride. 
 
 P and P both cautioned me not to praise the child, 
 
 or notice him particularly, as the natives consider it bad luck, 
 and that you may give the child the " Evil Eye." 
 
 The Maharajah salaamed all of us ; I was formally introduced, 
 and we all shook hands with him. After he had gratified his 
 curiosity, asking me all sorts of questions when he found I was 
 neither in the military nor civil service, for he is most suspicious 
 of all strangers, we mounted, he providing us with horses and 
 Sikh saddles. The stirrups were so short, my feet were nearly 
 tucked under my arms. The Maharajah had several beautiful 
 horses for his own use, and had but just mounted, when his 
 grandson refused to go in anything but a crazy-looking English 
 phaeton, and then, only with his grandfather, who sent to ash our 
 permission to drive in it, and for one of us to accompany him. 
 
 P got in with him, and we followed on horseback, for a turn 
 
 around the field. On the way we passed a little boy -general, a 
 natural son of the Maharajah's; then we all dismounted, and sat 
 in chairs, while the troops passed in review before ns. The time 
 of the music was so slow, it was quite ridiculous to see the men 
 balancing on one foot, while they were waiting the note to put 
 down the other. 
 
 Some of the men had guns with double bayonets — almost a 
 military Neptune a terre. One had a gun with the harrel eight 
 feet long ! After they had all passed, the Maharajah conversed 
 with US some time, while the grandson took a ride, escorted by 
 irregular cavalry. Eeturning, we started for our respective quar- 
 ters. There must have been about 5000 men on the field. The 
 cavalry wore brass helmets and horse-hair plumes. Besides the 
 regular troops, there was a more useful body — a militia, who 
 were dressed in the ordinary Cashmerian style — a short sack- 
 coat, with loose trowsers, and leggings with straw sandals. 
 Then, many mountain howitzers, and a very large style of 
 blunderbuss, to be fired from a " rest." Most of the arrange- 
 
WINTER TEMPERATURE. 391 
 
 ments of the soldiers were adapted to skirmisliing in the moun- 
 tains. 
 
 The Maharajah was in his ordinary style of dress. He had a 
 loose, red gown and trowsers, both of pushmena (the unembroi- 
 dered material of Cashmere shawls). His gown was lined with 
 flying-squirrel fur. The gown and trowsers were very richly 
 embroidered, and worked with gold thread and gold braid. 
 The trowsers were tight-fitting, with leggings. His cap of push- 
 mena, lined with fur, and over it a white-and-gold puggery 
 (turban), with a long white handkerchief around his neck. 
 
 The eldest son is at Jamoo, one of his fortified resorts on the 
 mountains, on the border of India. The second son was on the 
 field — a small, thin, active man, dressed in scarlet, but apparently 
 with little of his father's ability. 
 
 Goolaub Singh is of medium height, stout, and his naturally 
 white hair and beard dyed black, but is fifty, or fiftv-five, I am- 
 told. 
 
 We all dined with P , who has got his house in order 
 
 for winter quarters, and arranged with a fire-place, and other 
 
 accessories of comfort. C will start to-morrow, having 
 
 leave from his regiment, for England, and I am to have his house,, 
 where is also the luxury of a fire-place. 
 
 P , who has been here almost every winter, shooting for 
 
 a month or two since '50, says this winter is remarkably mild ; 
 last year, at this time, the ground being covered with two feet 
 of snow. The thermometer now stands at about 20° at sunrise. 
 Tn the middle of the day it is almost as mild as our Indian sum- 
 mer, but at night very cold. We are on the river's bank, which 
 makes the air rather colder for us. The valley is a table land, 
 5000 feet above the sea, surrounded by a snowy mountain 
 barrier, varying from 14,000 to 18,000 feet. 
 
 To-morrow morning we are to breakfast, by invitation, with 
 Mookti-Shah, the great shawl manufacturer of Cashmere, and 
 we expect a right jolly time. Each of our kitmagars has been' 
 ordered to take knives, forks, spoons, and napkins, for their- 
 
392 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 respective masters, so I presume it will be somewliat of a pic- 
 nic. 
 
 Dec. 19th. — This morning we all started in our boats, the prin- 
 cipal locomotive vehicle here, for Mookti-Shah's. He received 
 us in a miserable little room, about fourteen by eighteen, and after 
 some conversation breakfast was served, — and such a lot of sweet 
 things. I felt as if my whole breakfast consisted of a pot of jam. 
 We then asked him to let us see his chogars (cloaks, admirable 
 for ladies to use at parties or operas), shawls, scarfs, etc. 
 
 The chogars are made of " pushmena," which is the ground- 
 work or body of Cashmere shawls. Some of his shawls were 
 very beautifid, especially two of new patterns : one of $300, tlie 
 other of $325, costing about $540 and $590 in New York, with 
 exchanges, duties, transport, and care thrown into the profit and 
 loss account. But the shopkeepers in New York and London 
 make the profit and loss account a very heavy item in their 
 favor, for the shawls, when they reach either of those places, are 
 sold at about 500 per cent, profit on the original cost in Cashmere ! 
 The wholesale dealers in London paying Mookti-Shah £200 for 
 what he asks but £50 for in Cashmere ! 
 
 In a day or two I am to visit his house and manufactory, 
 when he will show me some that are handsome, and one being 
 made for the Empress of France, when I will tell you more 
 about the matter. He had only a small collection in his house 
 to-day, and we could not wait for him to send for more. 
 
 C and I started for the Hurri-Purvat, a fortress on a 
 
 hill about 500 feet high, that commands a fine view of the city, 
 lake, and surrounding country. The fort has not a single gun 
 mounted, and at present, its strength is in its height. At its 
 base, Ackbar built the old, and now ruined city of Nargur-Nar- 
 gur; from here we saw the Char-Chunar Island, named from its 
 four plane trees, of which only two are now standing. 
 
 The Shalimar garden is seen in the distance, and a snowy belt 
 •of mountains on all sides, varying from 12,000 to 18,000 feet in 
 
THE DUSKY BEAUTIES OF CASHMERE. 893 
 
 height. We then rowed across the lake, whose beauty is spoiled 
 by the shallowness of the water ; we stopped at the Neshad- 
 Bagh (or Garden of Bliss), which has been very handsome. The 
 summer-house is light and airy. There is a succession of foun- 
 tains from another and distant summer-house, all falling from 
 one into the other, until they reach this, when they pass through 
 the house into the lake. 
 
 We only stopped here a few minutes for C to cut some 
 
 canes, so I had not time to see it well. The view from the bal- 
 con}^, or upper piazza, is charming. I find Cashmere, or Shre- 
 nuggur, grows daily in beauty, even at this dull season of the 
 year, when hardly a leaf is to be seen. 
 
 The sunset views are lovely. The parting rays, as they gild 
 the snowy peaks, impart a pinkish tinge to the atmosphere, that 
 is exquisitely beautiful. 
 
 At home, and messed together. P gave us an amusing 
 
 account of some cannon practice of the Maharajah's he had 
 been witnessing this afternoon. To-morrow I shall ascend the 
 Tukht-i-Suliman, which is on this side of the town. 
 
 I suppose you are anxious for an account of the far-famed 
 Cashmere beauties, perhaps fancying I'm enamored with some 
 fair maid of Cashmere. But don't be alarmed ; I shall not lose 
 my heart with any of the dusky beauties of this country — 
 blondes or brunettes being more to my taste. The men are 
 generally of medium size and usual build of country people 
 among us, only not quite as strongly formed, with a mulatto 
 complexion, but with considerable of the " Moses" in their face. 
 The women of medium size ; very pretty figures ; full and 
 round ; their complexion is rather lighter than that of the men, 
 from less exposure. Many are pretty, but it is a beauty adapted 
 only to their style and dress, like a pretty squaw with us. 
 
 Cashmere beauties would not become our dress at all. They 
 all have bright dark eyes, which light up almost any flice, how- 
 ever ugly. 
 
 This being purely a Hindoo and Sikh town, the killing of a 
 
394 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 COW is punished by death. The wretch I saw hanging in a box 
 as I arrived, had been hanged for that offence, and so rigid is 
 the East India government, that no officer could kill, or have 
 killed, a beef of any kind, without very great danger of losing his 
 commission. 
 
 Dec. 20th. — After brealdast we all examined, and passed an 
 
 opinion on some chogars which C was buying to take to 
 
 England. Then they went to the city, and taking P 's 
 
 horse and my portfolio, I gallopped to the foot of the Tukht-i- 
 Suliman (or Throne of Solomon), a lofty isolated hill, which I 
 climbed up. The summit commands a beautiful view — the 
 best panorama of this part of the valley of Cashmere. 
 
 Often gazing while I sat down to sketch a general view. The 
 cold and wind were so great in this exposed position, that every 
 minute I had to stop and rub my hands, they got so numb, and 
 every few minutes take a run, to get my feet warm. 
 
 The lake seems half filled with marshy formations, most of 
 which have been caused by the "floating islands" becoming 
 stationary, and extending their dimensions. I saw the Char- 
 Chunar, and its surviving trees, beyond the Shalimar, celebrated 
 in Lalla-Eookh, for its Feast of Roses. On the top of this 
 mountain or hill, is a small, but curious old Bhuddist temple, 
 which I sketched descending the hill. In returning to the bun- 
 galow I saw some of the Maharajah's troops here practising 
 with small hill guns at a mark. 
 
 After dinner, at P 's, I had a grand packing up and 
 
 good-bye ; as C starts to-night for England, on a " three 
 
 years' leave," P accompanying him part of the way, as 
 
 he is going off on a shooting excursion for some days, and 
 
 to-morrow P and I start in the opposite direction, on 
 
 horseback, for Islamabad, our things starting to-night. 
 
 C gave me a letter of introduction to an ofiicer friend 
 
 of his, in the 9th Native Infantr}^, at Peshawur, with whom he 
 wishes me to stay, and P has mailed one to Rawul-Pindee, 
 
NOVEL METHOD OF FISHING. 395 
 
 to an officer in liis regiment (the 87tli Queen's) ; and P 
 
 wrote another to a civilian, to have an escort meet me on the 
 road the day I expect to return, for protection from the hill- 
 people, between Mazzeflferabad and Hazara, the country being a 
 little unquiet there. I've truly fallen among friends. 
 
 Dec. 1\st. — Last night I turned into C 's room as he 
 
 turned out. The rats making the bed-room a " race-course " at 
 night, are more than a fair offset to the luxury of a fire-place. 
 
 This morning I rode to the city with P , to order some 
 
 seals to be cut for me, with Persian letters, during my absence. 
 I believe I have recollected nearly all my relatives and friends, 
 the others must excuse me. 
 
 We then gallopped after the boats, which we overtook about 
 eleven. While breakfast was preparing, we amused ourselves 
 watching some natives who were fishing in (to us) a most novel 
 manner. Four men were in a boat rowing, and a fifth, naked, 
 stood in the bows watching for fish. The moment he saw one 
 near enough, he leaped overboard, and caught it in his hands! 
 We bought some of them, which weighed from one to two 
 pounds. 
 
 After breakfast we took our guns, and went after wild ducks, 
 of which there were great numbers in a marsh near the river, 
 the men continuing to " track" the boat. The ducks were so 
 wild from being shot at by the natives and the officers, that we 
 could not get near them. We saw two jackals, and a fox. At 
 dusk we stopped to dine, when we had a quarrel with the vil- 
 lagers because they would not sell us firewood, eggs, and milk. 
 However, we got these commodities at last, after a fight, in which 
 we raised a "general muss" in the town, knocking in doors, and 
 thumping the people about. Invigorated by our performances, 
 we gave the cook no cause to complain, as we disposed of his 
 viands before a large fire in the open air. 
 
 Dec. 22. — Eeached another ducking ground this mormng, so 
 
396 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 after breakfast, before a large fire on shore, we started off. Saw 
 thousands in the several marshes. To get shots we had to plunge 
 into the marsh, mud, water, and ice, above our knees, and not 
 particularly comfortable, as we only had on shoes, and the water 
 rather cold at this season. 
 
 We wandered about in this style for three or four hours. I 
 got a distant shot at a jackal which I wounded. We returned to 
 the boat with eight ducks, not very good luck, but we had the 
 fun and sport. 
 
 While we were eating breakfast, our chicarries (hunters), and 
 
 P 's horse, and syce, came in. They had been marching, 
 
 looking very melancholy, and said they had been beaten by 
 some villagers because they had asked for feed and lodging for 
 the horse, and one untied the corner of his blanket and produced 
 a bunch of hair which he said had been pulled out of his head 
 in the fight. They did not meet with much sympathy — for we 
 laughed at them for allowing the villagers to beat five stout men 
 who had a double-barrelled gun to defend themselves with. 
 
 After we returned from shooting we tracked on, amusing our- 
 selves with rifle practice on the Pariah (wild or common cur) dogs 
 that were on the shore, two or three hundred yards from us. At 
 dusk, we stopped and dined on the bank. 
 
 The sunset was beautiful, and the lofty "Pir-Punjal (18,000 
 feet), looked magnificent as the setting sun gilded his snowy sum- 
 mit. This evening P , who has been here nearly a year 
 
 on sick leave, has been reading extracts from his journal, inci- 
 dents and matters he has seen, and heard from his friends who 
 have seen or known about them. Among other matters, the 
 avarice, oppression, and cruelty of Goolaub Singh, who is admit- 
 ted to be the wealthiest man in India, and which he has scattered 
 all over the country for safety. Part is in a secret place in the 
 fort at Jamoo, which was constructed a few years ago, and to 
 preserve the secret, the men who built it were destroyed. 
 
 Wood is a monopoly, belonging to Government. On the birth 
 of every lamb, the owner must pay a tax of one anna (3 cents, a 
 
' CRUEL PUNISHMENTS. 397 
 
 full-grown sheep being worth but about 36 cents) — the birth of a 
 calf is four annas. For a marriage one rupee (50 cents, 11 days 
 wages) ! Every shop in the city pays a tax of three annas a day. 
 A fishing boat four annas a day. Walnut trees ten annas a year 
 for the oil, and if the crop fails must be made up with Ghee (a 
 kind of butter). It is computed that seven-eighths of the land 
 produce reaches Goolaub-Singh's pockets. 
 
 The shawl-manufacturers pay thirty-three per cent, of their 
 value, in addition to the raw material which comes from Ladak in 
 Thibet, paying three hundred per cent, duty, on coming into the 
 country. After the grain is harvested, it must be stacked and 
 remain, until the government assessors report and the King 
 chooses to fix the rate of the tax. Sometimes it is two or three 
 months. In the meanwhile the poor wretches, if they have none 
 of the old croj) left, are obliged to subsist on turnips (almost the 
 only vegetable) and herbs. 
 
 A month or two since, an officer, in passing through the coun- 
 try, saw in one of the villages, three persons being punished be- 
 cause the donkey of one had broken loose and eaten from a stack 
 of grain, and the other two for taking a little from one of their 
 own stacks before the stack had been assessed. 
 
 The first was punished by having his hands tied tightly together 
 over a stick, and then hung on the branch of a tree, the bit of 
 stick resting on the branch ; the blood was flowing from his nails. 
 The other two were tied back to back, and each obliged to hold 
 the other on his back for a certain number of hours, and if he 
 allowed the man on his back to touch the ground, he was 
 severely flogged. 
 
 Two or three months ago another officer had his carpet bag 
 cut open, and 150 rupees taken out. Suspecting his boatman, he 
 made a complaint against him, and he was taken in custody, and 
 it was afterwards ascertained that a confession was extorted from 
 him (it happened to be a true one in this case, he being the cul- 
 prit), by an incision made in his side, and chillies and red pepper 
 put in until he confessed and restored the property. 
 
898 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 A year ago, three SejDoys were flogged to death for killing a 
 cow. No native dare appear before the King in a handsome 
 dress, for fear the King will beg it away. He has been known 
 to beg a dress from a ISTautch dancer. 
 
 The sale of the country by the English to Goolaub Singh, 
 was a most extraordinary piece of misgovernment, and ill-judged 
 strength. 
 
 After they had conquered the Punjaub, this, as a dependency 
 of that province, fairly belonged to the English ; but Lord Gough 
 had made such bungle of the war, and was so near an utter de- 
 feat, that the Governor-General and Council were frightened for 
 fear the scattered Sikhs would rally around Goolaub Singh, 
 so that when after the war he offered to pay the whole expenses 
 of the campaign if they would confirm him as King of Cashmere, 
 and let him have the country, they gladly consented ! And now 
 he tyrannizes as he pleases, and keeps the people in the most 
 abject poverty, not even allowing them to leave the country- 
 
 P says about fifty escaped in a body a month ago, by 
 
 bribing the chokidar stationed at the Pass. The country is very 
 fertile, and well watered, and admirable climate for a military 
 sanitarium. It might have been the main avenue for all the 
 commerce of Central Asia, which the high duties now drive 
 away. There are no savage marauding tribes to interfere with 
 it, as on the western borders. 
 
 Dec. 23(:/, Petigoo Camp. — This morning, reaching Bigbahan 
 before daylight. We sent off the chupprassy for Coolies and a 
 horse, staying our appetites with a crust of bread and cup of tea. 
 While the Coolies were being arranged one ran away, and we 
 
 had an amusing chase after him. P jumped on his pony 
 
 and spurred off at full gallop. My bearer was putting on my 
 shoes as I sat before the fire eating. I started off on foot with 
 crust of bread in hand, with one shoe and a slipper, while a part 
 of the servants joined in the hue and cry, assisted by the village 
 authorities. 
 
A SACRED FISH-TANK. 399 
 
 The dholy {washerman, a part of one's usual establishment) 
 caught him, and Harriet Beecher Stowe was freely quoted by 
 him and. the authorities. (When the officers flog their servants 
 or the Cashmereans, who are such rascals they are very apt "to 
 catch it " every few days, they term it quoting that dear delightful 
 woman Harriet Beecher Stowe, or else giving them Uncle Tom.) 
 
 We then started part of our people for this place with tents, 
 etc., the rest for Mattun, half way, six miles, where we break- 
 fasted, stopping en route to shoot ducks, getting eight or nine- 
 We breakfasted under some noble old plane trees — the same as 
 our sycamore. I saw a sacred fish-tank. They are so numerous 
 that when food is thrown in to them they come in such quanti- 
 ties they can hardly move. On our way we stopped at some 
 rather celebrated caves ; one is in the rocks about a hundred feet 
 above the road, some eighty yards in depth, and from three to 
 five wide; dark, damp, and disagreeable, with nothing to see 
 but a Mussulman grave in a Hindoo cave, with an old tomb- 
 stone of a knight in armor and caparisoned horse. The other 
 cave just beyond has been converted into a Bhuddist temple 
 and the front walled up. It has a door and sculptured portal. 
 The caves are both fissures in the rock. 
 
 Then on here, at the foot of the mountains. When we arrived 
 we found the tents pitched, and a fine fire before them. The 
 tents being well carpeted ivith straiu, we hope for a comfortable 
 night. Unfortunately two of our chicarries had to stop on the 
 way, one of them having lost a child by the small-pox, which is 
 very prevalent among the children here. 
 
 Dec. 24:ih. — This morning up with the sun, though the ther- 
 mometer stood at 22°, and was soon rigged out in a suit of 
 
 P 's hunting clothes, consisting of a flannel hunting-shirt, a 
 
 pair of flannel pejamurs (loose dressing trowsers), tight in the 
 lower part of the leg, around which, from ankle to knee, was a 
 close bandage to support the leg in climbing hills, a pair of thick 
 woollen stockings with a thumb for the great toe, then a pair of 
 
400 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 straw shoes (as they are called), being only a straw-rope sole and 
 rope-band, in fact sandals, secured by a thong between the great 
 toe and the others, and then around the instep and heel. 
 
 After a cup of tea before the fire, we were off, each with a 
 long staff, our guns and rifles being carried by the four chicar- 
 ries. Two CooHes led the three dogs, another brought the 
 breakfast, and another our coats and shawls for us, when we 
 stopped for breakfast. For one has to dress very thinly when 
 they have such mountain-climbing to do, and yet get in an awful 
 glow going up hills of from five to twelve hundred feet ; or if 
 by any accident we should be kept out all night. 
 
 I found these sandals most comfortable to walk in, the only 
 safe ones in bad places, icy cliffs, and steep slippery hill-sides, 
 where one mis-step might give you an unexpected slide of a 
 thousand feet, or a somerset over a cliff. It is astonishing how 
 you stick to the snow with them, like a pair of hands. Our 
 game is to be anything we can find, particularly barasingh (a 
 species of stag with immense antlers) or bears. 
 
 We heard a musk-deer call on our way up the mountain, but 
 could see nothing of him. After climbing and wandering about 
 for three hours, we took a cold breakfast, and off again. The 
 hunters started a stag, but he was four hundred yards away 
 before we could get a glimpse of him. 
 
 Just as we reached the base of the hill our best dog sprung 
 loose, and plunged into the jungle. Fifteen minutes after we 
 saw two barasingh come out of the jungle near the summit of 
 the mountain and separate. The dog ran after one and followed 
 him into the jungle again, the other, a very tempting object to 
 us, even at a distance of fifteen hundred feet of hard climbing, 
 and half an hour of sun. But we deemed prudence best, and 
 left him. 
 
 On our way to the tents, where we arrived shortly after sun- 
 down, we heard a leopard call. So much for my first day — ter- 
 ribly severe climbing for a level-ground man. The snow melt- 
 ing, together with the wood-cutters and grass-burners, have 
 
INSOLENCE OF THE CASHMEREANS. 401 
 
 witliin four days driven most of tlie deer awaj^ The burners 
 set fire to tlie grass tliat grows during the summer tliree feet. 
 We have been trying to console ourselves for the fatigue and 
 bad luck to-day with a good dinner, whiskey toddy "night- 
 cap," and toasting ourselves over a blazing camp-fire. 
 
 P 's chupprassy, who had been sent out for eatables, 
 
 came back and reported that the head-man of the village had 
 refused to sell him anything, saying, "he didn't care for the 
 two officers." " What," says the chupprassy, " not when the 
 Maharajah himself salaams them?" "No, the swine eaters." 
 "You abuse the man whose salt I eat," with wdiich he applied his 
 staff a la "Uncle Tom" to the fellow's shoulders, whereupon he- 
 lowered his tone and body too, for he went on his knees, and; 
 begging pardon, sold all we wanted, and sent a horse for to- 
 morrow, and a cow for milk. This Afghan chupprassy is a 
 splendid fellow ; he don't often use blows, but when he does it 
 is with effect. 
 
 These Cashmereans arc most singularly insolent, lazy and 
 disobliging. The travellers (officers or civilians), for they are the 
 only travellers hereabouts, and then only when thev get sick, 
 leave and " do John Compan}'," and so much in debt usually, 
 they come here because their creditors will not let them leave 
 the country. Within the past two j-ears they have scattered so 
 much money in their shooting excursions, they have nearly 
 doubled the price of everything (the English do wherever they 
 go), sheep, poultrj^, grain, etc., besides paying cash at nearly 
 double the value of every article. 
 
 Dec. 2oih. — As m}^ day is twelve hours in advance of yours, I 
 
 send you the first " merry Christmas." P and I did not 
 
 hang up our stockings last night, as the tents have no chimneys, 
 and " Santa Glaus" has never been known to enter a habitation 
 in any other way. 
 
 But P and I shouted " merry Christmas " to each other^ 
 
 long before we were disposed to leave our beds. 
 
 26 
 
402 FROM WALL STliEET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 After a cup of tea, we rode over to the ruins of Koran-Pandan 
 (called Temple of the Sun) though actually a Bhuddist temple. 
 It is situated in a court-yard, with fine portals, and cells on every 
 side, the temple being in the centre. On the brow of a hill 
 overlooking the plain, stand two columns, to which was suspended 
 a large drum (formerly) to call people to prayer. It is the first 
 o'um I have seen in India. 
 
 According to tradition, it was one of the last works of the 
 Pandan dynasty, who disappeared 2500 B.C., after a reign of 
 1300 years. 
 
 Hugel supposes the ancient Shrenuggur (Kashmir) to have 
 stood here ; Cashmere, or Kashmir, being the new name given 
 to the city and country by the Mussulman conquerors. We 
 breakfasted among the ruins, and after some sketches, returned 
 to our tents in the afternoon, where we found a man waiting to 
 sell us a musk-deer — a beautiful little creature, about eight months 
 old, and eighteen inches high. But its hind-quarters were almost 
 as muscularly developed for its size as the kangaroo's. They are 
 .astonishingly active. 
 
 A.t dinner we did the best we could to celebrate the day; 
 made our cook " lay himself out " for " Soyer touches," and when 
 we had gratified his pride and our capacities with knife and fork, 
 we drank toasts to our absent friends and the healths of our 
 present selves, many returns of the day, and all the stereotyped 
 sentiments which two fellows with nothing to do but kill time, and 
 pass the evening pleasantly with fun and jokes, could get up. 
 
 After we had exhausted our wit and — the bottles, we adjourned 
 •to the drawing-room' — the camp-fire for coflee, — made of hot 
 water, sugar, and whiskey, like paddy's " tay " " that he made of 
 •the coffee 'he stole." 
 
 Dec. 26fh. — 'Off early this morning with a lot of Coolies to beat 
 the jungle, and to help the number, one of my men who was 
 seized with a sudden lameness when he found he was detailed for 
 ■ff/m business. The poor creatures are unfortunately delicate, and 
 

 
UNSUCCESSFUL SPORTING. 403 
 
 SO subject to sudden illness when cany disagreeable work is to be 
 performed. 
 
 On tlie way to the hills we stopped at a house and made a levy 
 of three more Coolies. AVe consider it a matter of humanity to 
 these poor abused wretches, to make them do wholesome work 
 for i(s — when we come here for pleasure and health, and pay them 
 triple their best wages here. 
 
 P has been in an awful fright all day. He has heard 
 
 that a child was sick with the small-pox in the house where we 
 made the levy to-day. Just before reaching the stalking ground, 
 one of our dogs broke loose. We soon heard him barking. I 
 
 followed with two of the chicarries, the others with P and 
 
 the fifteen Coolies stopped ; P having given up in disgust, 
 
 thinking the day's sport was spoiled. 
 
 After an awful scramble of a quarter of an hour, at a rapid pace, 
 up a high hill, in which a Mississippi high-pressure steamer would 
 have been child's-play to my puffing and blowing, I got sight of 
 seven barasingh, two of them bucks. They were more than 400 
 yards up hill, but I could get no nearer, so I fired with a heavy 
 
 single-barrelled rifle of P 's, and missed, then with my little 
 
 German rifle, I dropped one, hitting him in the shoulder. They 
 had not caught sight of me, so I loaded the same rifle again and 
 fired. The ball struck the ground just behind the forefoot of the 
 other buck. I saw the dust. The noise frightened them, and 
 they started off over the hill, the wounded one managing to 
 hobble along. We hurried up another hill, to head them off, but 
 we were too slow. 
 
 I had a beautiful chance at another, only 250 yards, while 
 
 waiting for P ; but unfortunately my chicarrie had gone 
 
 a short distance with the rifle. Then came a tedious scramble 
 up another hill, about fifteen hundred feet high, when wandering 
 
 through the snow and burnt grass, I met P . We then 
 
 beat another jungle without success. 
 
 On the snow of this hill there was one of the most beautiful 
 views I ever saw — a valley on either side, spangled by winding 
 
404 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 streams, while the snow-covered mountains that surrounded us 
 r ppeared loftier than ever. Descending, we had just reached the 
 bottom, when we saw three stags, and two hinds, on an adjoining 
 hill about 1000 feet high. There was only half an hour more sun, 
 
 but P said he must try, so up we started at an awful pace, 
 
 and just before reaching a reasonable rifle shot distance, thej 
 "winded" us, and scattered. 
 
 We got sight of a hind calling, but too distant to shoot, and as 
 we were descending the hill, saw a barasingh 800 yards off". I 
 took a "snap-shot" and missed, and was just loading again when 
 
 I saw two others at about 200 yards. I waited for P 
 
 whose rifle missed fire, and when we shot they were 300 yards 
 off, snap shots at that, and we missed again, it was so dark we 
 could not see the sights to our rifles. "\Ve turned homewards 
 much disgusted with our luck. 
 
 Shortly after reaching the plain, as we were going in Indian 
 file through a bridle path of low jungle (thick brush), one of the 
 dogs gave an awful howl of terror; the men shouted, so did we, 
 he soon came in, having had a narrov/ escape from a leopard. 
 We then had all the dogs tied, and led. A hundred yards farther 
 on, we were startled in the same way again, the brute having 
 crawled on ahead and lay close to the road, and not a quarter of 
 a mile from our tents, where I was as usual met by my servant 
 with his customary salute and " Kadaun Sahib" (Sir Prince). As 
 the snow is melting rapidly, I fear we shall not have any success. 
 
 Dec. 27th. — I have been out all day alone, with three chicarries. 
 I had a walk equalling yesterday's in fatigue, and have not seen 
 
 a single barasingh for nine hours. This afternoon P went 
 
 out and got one shot at a barasingh at 850 yards, wounding but 
 not killing him. 
 
 Our leopard trap is set, 200 yards off, we have a puppy for bait, 
 who is doing all we could wish by his horrid howling to attract 
 the brute. 
 
 This evening we have two sick men, the chuprassy and 
 
"professional visits." 405 
 
 P — = 's kitmagar. So I got out mj' doctor's book and medi- 
 cines, and after dinner wo studied it over, and decided that one 
 had a rlieumatic fever, and the other some kind of fever we did 
 not quite understand, and we concluded to give him a dose on 
 guess, unless we could understand his symptoms better than we 
 could the book. So picking up the medicines and book we went 
 to pay our '■'"professional visits.'''' 
 
 They were in the second story of an adjoining building, the 
 cattle occupying the first. The ceiling was not more than five 
 feet high, and in the room were twenty-two people and three 
 
 dogs ! As P is Ilindoostanee interpreter to his regiment 
 
 I let him do the conversational, while I personated JEsculapius, 
 with pockets full of j^hials and spoons. Examining the patient's 
 pulse and tongue, and with due professional gravity, his various 
 symptoms — a picture for Cruikshank — this sick chuprassy with 
 
 a torch-bearer on either side, Drs. P and I, one reading 
 
 the book, while the other, watch in hand, studied the patient's 
 tongue and pulse, surrounded with a triple circle of Coolies who 
 gazed with wonder at the learned Sahibs ! 
 
 After this display of professional skill we returned to the camp 
 
 fire, where P , in a chogar, drowned care in his hookar 
 
 (pipe), and I in my capote with a nap. He finished off the 
 evening watli some 7«7/s and brandy pawny, as they go together! 
 and I with a whiskey toddy. I suppose you think this savors of 
 dissipation indulging in " nightcaps." You w^ould change your 
 mind if, after a hard day's tramp, you enjoyed a fire in the open 
 air, with the thermometer ten or a dozen degrees below freezing 
 point, and then had to retire to a tent to sleep, where, when the 
 floor is covered with straw and a mat, a large chatty of coals 
 under the middle of the bedstead, a hot stone at the foot, and so 
 many bedclothes and things on the bed you could not turn after 
 getting in, and only just warm enough to sleep, with, at daylight, 
 
 the thermometer about 18° or 20°. P has retired to bed, 
 
 I to my tent to journalize, and the servants in our late places 
 enjoying the fire. 
 
406 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE, 
 
 Dec. 28. — This morning we took matters more comfortably, 
 and breakfasted before starting. After getting half way up the 
 mountain the dogs started a barasingh which we could not get a 
 good sight of. We then had a distant glimpse of a bear, and 
 on to a hole which we heard held three bears; but ihej had 
 thawed out with the warm weather, and the hill we were to have 
 hunted on was on fire. 
 
 We returned to the tents in disgTist. Just as we arrived a 
 woman came in with a calf bleeding at the throat and head. A 
 leopard had sprung upon it not gunshot from the tents in mid- 
 day, and been frightened off" by two little boys who were guarding 
 the cattle. This morning an offering was made by the chicarries, 
 and all was eaten by the various members of the establishment 
 except the syce, who, they afterwards discovered, had not touched 
 his. So this evening a formal complaint was made to us on the 
 subject. 
 
 Giving our chuprassy an additional dose this morning we find 
 to-night he is much better, and the kitmagar well. The chu- 
 prassy's friends called in a native doctor, but — we were of 
 different schools, and so could not consult together, though he 
 did have an ^^sculapian " twist of the face." We sent him off, 
 threatening to "bore him" with a Minnie bullet if seen within 
 rifle shot, as we did not mean to have our patient trifled with, 
 and have a " crowner's verdict" against us to bring owr profession 
 in disgrace. A fellow has been hanging about all day, with such 
 faith in my medical skill, he has got quite angry because I wont 
 try and cure liis consumption! 
 
 Dec. 29, EiVER Jhelum. — I started my things off early for the 
 
 boat. Then stopped and breakfasted with P :-, who gave 
 
 me a letter of introduction to a friend of his at Kohat, near 
 Peshawur. I have had a grand time paying off chicarries and 
 Coolies, Then off via Islamabad, passing through the remains 
 of an avenue of grand old plane trees, with trunks at the ground 
 varying from eight to fifteen feet in diameter. There is notliing 
 
ANOTHER VISIT TO MOOKTI-SHAH. 407 
 
 to denote antiquity about tlie town, save an old tank full of 
 trout, darker and not as pretty colored as ours. 
 
 It is tlie site of the ancient Anatnagh, to wliicli tradition gives 
 an antediluvian date, 3700 B.C. In tlie iifteentli century the Ma- 
 hommedans changed its name to Islamabad, or "City of the Faith," 
 
 I found my boat had been carried a mile down the river by 
 some Sepoys ; however I got it at last, and with the tide, good 
 luck, and the men joaddling all night, if they don't fall asleep, 
 will get me in to-morrow morning. 
 
 Bee. 30, Cashmeee. — Though the men worked all night, yet, 
 from the lowness of the water in the river and frequent shoals, 
 we did not sight Tukht-i-Suliman until nine ; at twelve I left 
 with my rifle, and took a short cut across while the boat con- 
 tinued on down. I shot a hawk and a cat, the only rjame I could 
 see. I saw a small boat opposite the bungalow towing up stream. 
 
 I got them to put me across. I found P 's bungalow 
 
 locked, and his bearer gone to the bazaar. While meditating 
 
 housebreaking the postman came with some letters for P 
 
 and P , and some papers, but nothing for me. 
 
 I amused myself reading the news nntil my boat arrived, then 
 
 borrowing P 's horse, rode to the Post Office to make sure 
 
 there were no letters for me. Then to Mookti-Shah's, who, of 
 course, in four days beyond the time, had not touched the 
 chudders ; only two shawls were finished for me to choose from, 
 and the scarfs were in the wash, so I " raved a few." Then to 
 the seal-engraver's and got the seals ; on my return, finding the 
 bearer still absent, I entered vi et armis, and took possession of 
 
 P 's own room, which would not warm notwithstanding: 
 
 all the air-stoppers. 
 
 Dec. 31. — This morning P 's old bearer made me very 
 
 comfortable with a fire, and after breakfast eroino- into town, I 
 ordered some more seals. Then to Hadji-Mohammed's. I saw 
 no shawls to suit me, the chudders are dear, and there are no- 
 
408 FKOiyi WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 cliogars. On my way back I stoi^pcd and Ijought a clicss-board 
 and pen-box both of papier machti ; I then went to the gun- 
 smith's to have a bullet mould made. 
 
 Going to Mookti-Shah's, who had managed to get several of 
 his shawls ready for me to see, I bought a beautiful one of a new 
 pattern, with a centre in four colors, and one of the very pret- 
 tiest patterns he had, and far handsomer and much superior to 
 any I could find elsewhere. He is the great manufacturer in 
 Cashmere of Cashmere shawls, and has much the largest and 
 best assortment. I don't think he makes any that could be 
 bouo'ht for less than ciorht or nine hundred dollars in New York 
 or London, I have seen none at any time when I have been at 
 his house or manufactory. 
 
 I also bought a chogar, and five chudders, three for F 
 
 and W , at Lahore, and the other two for myself, they are 
 
 purely of pushmena except a very narrow embroidered border 
 of about an inch. They are white, and about ten or twelve feet 
 long by six wide, and very much liked as sick-room shawls by 
 the English ladies, then half a dozen small scarfs for the neck, of 
 different patterns and colors, white, red, and blue. 
 
 Mookti-Shah then took me to his manufactory, a miserable 
 dirty building, the working department one large room, about 
 sixty by thirty. Here were some forty men and boys of all ages 
 from six up to fifty, arranged in twos and threes, at different 
 looms, each one a loom to himself, for all the most valuable 
 shawls are made in looms, in small pieces according to the pat- 
 tern, and then sewn together. The pattern is not put in colors 
 and squa,res like our patterns of worsted work for chair-backs, 
 seats, or slippers, but the directions written. "When the patterns 
 arc made they arc all sewn together. 
 
 At some looms where they were working there appeared to be 
 four or five hundred small pins of w^ood with rolls of different 
 shades of woollen thread, to be used in the difierent parts of the 
 pattern. It was astonishing to see the dexterity with which the 
 ■fimall children worked these handlooms, and understood their 
 
SHAWL FOR THE EMPRESS EUGENIE. 409 
 
 written directions. Most of the people were at work on a mag- 
 nificent shawl for the Empress Eugenie of France, a white ground 
 or centre, and it will be the most elegant one he has ever made. 
 He says thirty men have been steadil}^ at work on it for six 
 months, and it will require three more months to finish it. The 
 price, when finished will be about 1,300 rupees or $650, and is 
 such a shawl as would sell for about $-i,000 in London or New 
 York — so you see the shopkeepers, even if they don't come out 
 here to make money, are enabled to realize a little when they stay 
 at home. My shawl took fifteen men seven months to make. 
 The workmen only receive one and a half annas ( 4 J cents) a 
 day. 
 
 Mookti-Shah is quite a rara avis among these people in being 
 an honest, reliable man, as every one tells me. He says if labor 
 was as cheap in France they could make them as well as he does, 
 and that the water here is supposed to have peculiar properties, 
 and so does not affect them in washing, is all in the imagination. 
 I can't imagine where all the one, two, and three hundred dollar 
 shawls in your stores come from — certainly not Cashmere. 
 
 I took leave and went through one of the canals, in which 
 there were hundreds of domesticated ducks and geese belonging 
 to the Maharajah, which it would be death to kill ; and continuing 
 on to the lake without being able to find the old Temple of Kali- 
 Salam — a Hindoo place of pilgrimage — I went on to the Nishad- 
 Bagh, the pretty summer-garden and summer-house I visited 
 once before with C , but hastily. 
 
 The gardens are very extensive, and immediately on the lake. 
 I wandered through them and then took another view from the 
 balcony of the Pavilion. 
 
 " ! to see it at sunset." 
 
 A brilliant sun was setting, and mellowing the air with its golden 
 rays. The glassy waters of the lake were reflecting each moun- 
 tain, hill, and tree on a background of fleecy sky, on cither side 
 of the city. The Tukht-i-Suliman, and Hurri-Purvat, towered in 
 
•ilO FEOM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 solitary grandeur, each bearing on its crest the emblematic rule 
 of God and man — love and strength — a temple and a fortress. 
 On the opposite side of the lake was the forest of plane trees 
 which Ackbar planted, the Char-Chuner Isle, and the Shalimar 
 Gardens, and in this place the relic of a once beautiful fountain. 
 Some years ago a wealthy Pundit constructed a dam or bund 
 across this part of the lake from Shrenuggur, which destroyed 
 much of its beauty. At present the water is very low. I reached 
 home long after dark, and half- frozen, 
 
 Neio Year''s Day^ 1854, Kashmir. — A happy New Year to you 
 all ! This morning up early for a long day on the lake; but my 
 stupid boatmen cost me an hour, by coming to the house instead 
 of going to the Drogshuh (sluice-gate), so I employed the interme- 
 diate time while they were going around there, in writing notes 
 
 to P and P , and sending them their letters and 
 
 papers, a servant of each being in from them. After a long row 
 through one of the numerous canals, I passed within a hundred 
 yards of Ackbar's femous grove, and on to the Char-Chunar 
 Island, where I landed. Two of the trees are standing; the 
 summer-house is gone, and the water-wheel that supplied the 
 fountains has perished like the rest. I picked up a piece of marble 
 for myself, and some plane-tree balls for romanticly disposed 
 friends. 
 
 Then to the Shalimar Gardens, so famous in Lalla Eookh ! 
 They are at the far end of the lake, and the approach is through 
 a long, narrow canal. A few steps from the boat takes the visitor 
 to the outer gate. There are three, each forming a small pavilion. 
 Through a large open space between the two parts of the 
 pavilions, like a gateway, flowed a succession of fountains, com- 
 mencing at the large pavilion. The place is now dry, and being 
 well paved forms a good walk. 
 
 These pavilions are each about two hundred feet apart. In 
 fron* of the principal one is a large fountain, with walls five 
 feet high. In the centre of this, and connecting by a marble 
 
"magnificent shalimar." 411 
 
 bridge with tlie pavilion, is a, raised floor or platform, evidently 
 arranged for a seat of state, or throne. 
 
 This last and principal pavilion has a portico surrounding it, 
 supported by beautiful pillars of black marble, highly polished, 
 with very heavy capitals. The base on which the pavilion is 
 erected, is also of black marble, polished. The building is sur- 
 rounded on three sides by a basin for water, with a hundred and 
 twenty jets. The structure is of one story about fifty feet front 
 by forty deep, and divided into a large hall, and two side apart- 
 ments shut o& by a lattice screen of marble. 
 
 A fine avenue of plane trees leads to the pavilion — many of 
 the trunks measuring from twelve to fifteen feet in circumference. 
 There is nothing very attractive about the place, nor can it com- 
 pare with the Nishad-Bagh for beauty of situation : the principal 
 elements of beauty are due to the hand of man, and the imagina- 
 tive to the halo of enchantment with which Moore, by the charm 
 of his wonderful poesy, has encircled the vale of Cashmere. All 
 this will doubtless conflict with the pre-conceived views and air- 
 castles of this beautiful valley, and especially with 
 
 " His magnificent Shalimar ;" 
 
 But Moore wrote his description in England, without seeing 
 Cashmere, and probably without seeing any one who ever had 
 been there, borrowing his descrij)tions from Bernier, who saw 
 it under some of its most favorable auspices, the Emperor 
 vVurungzebe, the last of the Moguls : and what he did not see 
 he received from tradition, told in native hyperbolic style of 
 description, commensurate with their exaggerated respect for the 
 great Emperors : and Moore, with all the privilege of poetic licence 
 wrought it up as only his beautiful poesy was capable of; while 
 I, a humble matter-of-fact traveller, give "a plain unvarnished 
 tale" of what I saw, written and sketched on the very spot, and 
 under the very roof where 
 
 " The imperial Selim held a feast 
 In his magnificent Shalimar." 
 
412 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 Moore's description of the scenery, and all tliat nature contributed 
 are perfect, and poetry ceases to lend a charm when nature has 
 furnished the perfections of loveliness. But where nature stopped 
 Moore's poetic dream took up its lay. 
 
 But to continue the practical. Back of the Shalimar, I saw 
 a heavy curious flour mill, worked hj an overshot wheel ; the 
 paddlers or arms about as wide as carriage spokes, and arranged 
 in the same waj". This turned a beam, to which were fastened 
 two other spokes ; one on either side. As they revolved, they 
 alternately raised the handles of two heavy hammers which 
 pounded the grain, taking about a week io grind a barrel of 
 flour. 
 
 Down the lake passed the Nishad-Bagh, to the foot of the hill 
 where stands the Purvi Mahal — an old Mussulmaun College — 
 which presents a flne appearance, as it stands on the brow of 
 the terraced hill. I contented myself with a view from the boat 
 as there is nothing more to be seen after all the trouble of climb- 
 ing up. I continued on to the foot of the Tukht-i-Suliman, and 
 across to an old Hindoo temple in a tank, called the Pandritan. 
 
 On reaching my bungalow, I learned from P 's servant he 
 
 would be in from his camp in an hour ; so I delayed dinner, and 
 sent him my salaam. In a short time he came in, apologizing 
 for his shooting clothes, and thus we both had a very respectable 
 New- Year's dinner, instead of he alone in his tent, and I in the 
 
 bungalow. He had had better luck than P and I; 
 
 he had killed two barasingh, an ibex, and two bears ; but had 
 been living in the snow, and he is one of the best shots in India. 
 
 Last spring he had a very narrow escape from an avalanche. 
 
 He and the surgeon of his regiment. Dr. P , were out 
 
 shooting on some of the snow ranges, when avalanches w" ere con 
 stantly coming down on all sides. He had given up the shoot- 
 ing there, as too dangerous, when his friend persuaded him to 
 go once more, and while out that day, and they were sitting on 
 a cliff looking at some ibex, they heard a crash, — on looking up, 
 they saw the top of the mountain coming down with frightful 
 
A VISIT TO THE BATHS. 413 
 
 velocit3^ P sprang up, and exclaimed to his friend, and 
 
 the three chicarries who were with them, "Come along!" and 
 rushed along the cliff as fast as possible. In a minute he reached 
 a cleft in the rock eight or nine feet wide, and extending down 
 hundreds of feet — a fearful chasm to leap, but his only chance ; 
 and without stopping to look, he took it and landed safely on the 
 other side, although three feet higher than the place he sprang 
 from — such are his great activity and strength. He said he 
 never saw his friend or the hunters after he started ; whether they 
 were horrified at the danger, or when they reached tlie chasm, 
 were afraid to leap, he did not know. 
 
 The Dr. fancying from these frequent avalanches some accident 
 might happen to him, had written his will in his journal only 
 two da,js before. 
 
 Jan. 2. — P and I went to the baths this morning to try 
 
 them; and the way they manage the -thing in Kashmir, having 
 sent word last night that we were coming, and to have the place 
 cleaned for us. We found it a dark dismal hole, where we got 
 awful manipulations, poundings, and disjointings — quite excru- 
 ciating, which wc endured with Spartan fortitude, being deter- 
 mined to "see the thing out," though each occasionally emitted 
 a groan, which the other laughed at — though we both believe 
 the rascals, thinking we were novices, put us in all the pain they 
 could to see our grimaces. 
 
 While we were at breakfast, Mookti-Shah came in with my 
 things. P pronounced the shawl one of the most beauti- 
 ful patterns he had ever seen ; besides, it was an entirely new 
 pattern of which there were only two others like it, and they 
 made at the same time — the chogar of white pushmena, the 
 chuddars, and scarfs, besides a very pretty dressing-gown for 
 
 myself, all of pushmena. P is considered an excellent judge 
 
 in these matters, from being so much here for three years past, 
 and going with friends so frequently to the shops and manufac- 
 tories, besides lounging in them when nothing else to do, for 
 
414 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 they are always glad to see Europeans, feeling their visit a com- 
 pliment, so that he knows the stocks of the people almost as well 
 as they do themselves. 
 
 Mookti-Shah then packed them up in several cloths, and sewed 
 them up in double wrappers of oil cloth — I hope they will go 
 safe. We then went to the sealman's and got the seals. 
 
 "We continued on to Safa-la-Baba's shawl establishment, where 
 I saw four very pretty shawls he is making for Lady Gomm, 
 the wife of the Commander-in-chief, for 600 rupees each, and 
 several others very handsome ; also a beautiful small one he 
 offers for 250 rupees, which is much below the price — done 
 
 to induce P to bring his friends as now he always takes 
 
 them to Mookti-Shah's, and this man wishes to get a celebrity. 
 
 P is persuading me to buy it as the cheapest one he has 
 
 seen in Cashmere. Though I don't quite like the style of manu- 
 facture, the pattern is beautiful ; but the work is embroidered 
 with a needle after it is made — a new fashion that is being intro- 
 duced, and less beautiful than the woven fabrics. To-morrow 
 he is to bring it to me pressed, that I may see it to better advan- 
 tage; now it is rough from having just been made, and 
 washed. 
 
 The great beauty I find in their shawls, and what makes them 
 so expensive, is not only the softness, but closeness of the work- 
 Shawls may be soft, but of loose and flimsy texture ; while the 
 better ones are almost stiff from the closeness of the work. From 
 there being so much more work in them, they are very much 
 more expensive, though the others may be softer ; and in that 
 way people are deceived as to the value. AYhen I was going- 
 home he offered me his horse, as P had his own, and I 
 
 had come in the boat. The horse was very good, but the saddle 
 and housings, "awful swell" of crimson pushmena, embroidered 
 needlework, silver, shells, and all sorts of ornaments. 
 
 Jan. 2>d. — This morning, I went down early in my boat to the 
 city, for a sketch from the river, of the bridges, river, and houses- 
 
NATIVES OF LADAK. 415 
 
 also to finish one I had commenced of the Shaam-Dam mosque, 
 built of deodar cedar. 
 
 The interior is very j)rettily painted and inlaid with colored 
 woods. I saw some pretty Ilindoo women, who are easily 
 recognised by their red woollen frocks or gowns. Many of the 
 children, both Hindoo and Cashmerean, have beautiful and 
 aristocratic foces. The women have a composite face of Greek, 
 Jew, and Indian ; many with the low forehead and Grecian 
 features. The men have much the same stjde of face as the 
 women. On my way down I saw many men bathing in the 
 river, a rather objectionable j)erformance, I should think, with 
 the thermometer six or eight degrees below freezing, though 
 
 P says he has always done it until within a few days past, 
 
 when it made him sick. 
 
 Going in the bazaar, I saw some men from Ladak, the northern 
 part of Thibet — about ten daj^s march from Islamabad — 'where 
 I should go, but for the deep snow. The men are almost 
 white, and wear long hair, while the Cashmereans are sallow or 
 very light mulatto, except a few of the lowest class, vrho are 
 nearly black. Either they are a different caste, or else low 
 caste Bengalees; but they are quite distinct, both in color 
 and feature. 
 
 At home to pack uj). This afternoon Safa-la-Baba brought 
 the shawl, which looked so handsome when pressed, that I bought 
 it, thinking j'ou might like it, as so different from the style of 
 those you have, and I had it packed up in various cloths. 
 
 The Maharajah and his agents keep watch of every shawl 
 that is made, to get the thirty-three per cent, tax ; and as soon 
 as finished, the shawl is shown to them, and the Maharajah's 
 name marked in thread in one corner — the curious scrawl you 
 alwaj'S see in a corner of all Cashmere shawls ! 
 
 Then P and I took our farewell dinner. I bid him 
 
 good-bye — but that everlasting procrastination in the East, my 
 " help," had not got all my things ready, so I patiently waited. 
 P says when a man dies and leaves a widow, it is con- 
 
416 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 sidered verj disgracefal if liis brotlier does not marry her in 
 preference to any other person. 
 
 My bearer has just come m, with a long face and "Kodaun 
 Sahib" (Sir Prince), "the kitmagar has cut up my water rope, 
 that I paid eight annas for." So I said I would make the kit- 
 magar give him a new one, and blow him up. He folded his 
 hands, and after repeated "ha, Sahibs" (their only style of say- 
 ing thank you), said, " I will follow your excellency to the end 
 of the world, and I will pray to God Almighty that you may 
 die a lord." God is first in their ideas, under whatever name 
 they worship him — God, Allah, or Brahma, and a lord is next — 
 an odd mixture of the spiritual and worldly. 
 
 P intends going to Ladak in a few weeks, if the weather 
 
 continues mild, and then in disguise penetrate into Thibet, a 
 forbidden country to the English. They don't quite cut your 
 throat, as in Afghanistan, but they put you in prison to while 
 away your time, as they did ten or fifteen years ago an English 
 ofi&cer, who has since inherited an estate in England of between 
 £10,000 and £20,000 a-year, and yet cannot get out of Thibet 
 to go home and enjoy it. Sometimes they only subject you to 
 the inconvenience of retracing your steps, or perhaps imprison 
 
 you until it suits their convenience to send you away. P 
 
 understands Hindostanee admirably, and Cashmeree very well, as 
 one of them found out a day or two ago, when he made some 
 
 infamous remark about P , who gave him " Harriet 
 
 Beecher Stowe." He is a tremendous big fellow, though only 
 twenty-two. Six feet one or two, and splendidly set np ; and 
 yet the smallest of a family of five brothers. You can, ^;erAaps, 
 imagine what the others are. He regularly walks the Cash- 
 merean chicarries off their feet — and such a jolly nice fellow ! 
 
 P says in conversing with some people from Ladak, 
 
 they speak of a wild animal with one horn in the forehead, which 
 he thinks must be the unicorn of Scripture, and has proposed to 
 government to take the risk of the journey, if they will pay his 
 travelling expenses. They refuse ! 
 
THE CITY OF KASHJIIR. 417 
 
 And now, having seen Kashmir and all its sights, even though 
 at this most unfavorable season of the year, yet I have been 
 singularly fortunate in finding it so mild, and the ground gene- 
 rally free from snow. The people are quite alarmed, and P 
 
 says there will be a famine in the Punjaub next year, unless 
 
 there is some snow to fill the rivers. P and P 
 
 both say that beautiful as the country is in winter, it is still more 
 lovely in summer, when the trees are in foliage, and the valley 
 almost a mass of roses and other flowers, teeming with every 
 variety of luxuriant vegetation. 
 
 I leave the country quite satisfied with what I have seen, faint 
 as the realization of what it is in summer, when every spot from 
 mountain to mountain again, is " bursting with heaped up 
 plenty." The now muddy canals, then bright pellucid streams, 
 the rough banks variegated with grass and wild flowers, and the 
 noble trees that shade its banks luxuriant witli varied foliage. 
 
 It is the environs of Kashmir that are so beautiful : the shaded 
 walks, canals, lake, islands, gardens, the valley, and mountains, 
 with their perpetual rosy-tinted snow — so refreshing a view when 
 turning from the midsummer sun faint with the heat of the plain. 
 
 The city is much like all others in the East — filth}'- streets, and 
 a mass of dilapidated mud or stone houses, new or old all 
 together ; and apropos of this, there is an absurd superstition 
 that prevails throughout India, that when a man dies leaving a 
 house unfinished, it is considered had lucJc to complete it or have 
 anything to do with it ! So it is neither sold nor pulled down,, 
 but remains an unsightly object until it falls of its own accord. 
 
 The gardens and summer palaces that were formerly among 
 the charms of the place, are now gone to ruin. The gardens- 
 are nearly a jungle, and, with the exception of the principal one 
 in the Shalimar, the palaces are almost ruins — Goolaub Singh 
 attending more to substantial realities in the way of filling his 
 coffers, than creating, or even keeping in order, the artificial 
 beauties of palaces, gardens, and fountains. 
 
 And now good-bye to Cashmere ! ! 
 
 27 
 
418 FROiL WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 Jan. 4t€i. — River Jhelum. — This morning, when I thawed out 
 of my cabin, I found, with current and rowing, we were half- 
 way to Bararaulla. I saw a great number of geese in the river, 
 on the land, or wing — so, after breakfast, I engaged for the day 
 a shooting-boat and two men, whom I saw paddling in a gun- 
 ning "punt," for the enormous sum of three annas (nine cents). 
 Having occasion to cross the river, I got in. 
 
 A more ticklish craft I've never seen — no washboards, a flat- 
 bottomed scow, only eight inches deep, long and narrow ; as it 
 floated, the gunwales were only two or three inches above the 
 water, when on a level keel. From the centre to the bow of 
 the boat, was trained a long gun-barrel, old, rusty, and patched, 
 with a matchlock. The barrel was at least seven feet long, and 
 must have carried an enormous charge. The geese were very 
 wild. I fired several shots at them, with my rifle, from 250 to 
 300 yards — the nearest I could get. 
 
 We soon reached the "Waller lake, when I paddled off in the 
 •shooting-boat to look at the ruins of the old Bhuddist temple, 
 on an island at its entrance. Then on into the continuation of 
 the Jhelum, which took several hours. At dusk I waded 
 through a morass for a shot at some geese ; but they were too 
 wild, ev^en at this hour. I've just heard a gun, so I suppose 
 some native has run against a goose, for they never fire unless 
 the gan almost touches the bird. 
 
 To-day I saw one of these boats work up to a flock of ducks • 
 «ach has a paddle, as large at the end as the head of a small keg, 
 and looking very much like one. They worked up until within 
 120 yards, when the head man laid down and trained the gun, 
 while the other, leaning forward out of sight, used his hands as 
 paddles. They did not fire, though they had a beautiful chance. 
 
 Jan hill. — Nowshera. — I reached Baramulla just before day- 
 light. After sending, I went mj'-self to the cutwal, and the 
 thanadiir soon followed. After being dela3'ed until half-past 
 ten, I got my eight additional Coolies, whom I despatched with 
 
DIFFICULTIES WITH THE COOLIES. 419 
 
 the kitmagar and traps, wliile I waited an hour more for a horse. 
 Part of the time I spent in sketching the pretty face of my boat- 
 man's daughter, who was so modest she never looked the same 
 way two seconds. 
 
 The horse arrived ; so, saddling him with my cloak and plaid^ 
 I mounted, and left the legs to take care of themselves, and 
 reached this place just at sunset. Gave the kitmagar the room 
 that had the fire-place, to cook in, while I depended upon a hot 
 stone in the cold room, preferring it to the smoke of the other. 
 
 I've just pushed aside the curtain separating the two rooms, 
 to speak to the kitmagar ; I found him asleep, and my to-mor- 
 row's breakfast being cooked by two dirty Coolies — a prospect 
 not altogether agreeable, although travel has made me familiar 
 with dirt. 
 
 Jan. 6th. — Uri. — This morning I was woke at daylight, and 
 had the disagreeable news that my Coolies had all run away. 
 So I sent to the thanadar for more. My servant not liking to 
 awake the great man, I went to the fort myself, and had some 
 Sepoys sent out after Coolies. Yesterday my sympathies were 
 awakened by seeing the Sepoys try to force some Coolies to take 
 my things, and throw down their own loads in the road. But 
 as they are all such a precious set of vagabonds, I don't care much 
 what the Sepoys do to them, nor did I inquire how my comple* 
 ment was made up. 
 
 I stopped on the road to finish my sketch of the old Bhuddist 
 temple. The sides of the enclosure wall are fall of cells, with 
 the trefoil arch over each entrance. I arrived here at four, and 
 delay my sketch until to-morrow. 
 
 Jan. 7th. — This morning I started my Coolies off with one of 
 the servants, while I took the other, the horse, and a Cooly, and 
 sketched the suspension bridge. 
 
 Leaving all but the Cooly at the fort, I descended three or 
 four hundred feet to the bridge, which is a braided rope, made 
 from twisted twigs. It consists of three parts — a place about 
 
420 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 eight inches wide to walk upon, and two twisted-twig rails, one 
 on either side. They are about three and a half feet above the 
 foot-piece, and at every ten feet small wooden bars or bannisters 
 connect the rail with the foot part. 
 
 The Jhelura, or Hydaspes, is here about a hundred yards 
 wide — a rapid, rushing, foaming torrent. The bridge is secured 
 on either bank about sixty feet above the water's edge, and in 
 the centre, the arc of the circle is so great, it is only about eight 
 feet above the water. I asked the Cooly to cross, intending to 
 follow ; but he was afraid, and as my head turns at times, I did 
 not like to venture alone. 
 
 I went below and sketched it. "While there, I saw a man 
 cross with a sheep on his shoulder ; he walked carelessly along, 
 the bridge vibrating very much, and yielding at every step. 
 Then I went on after my people, descending into a small valley 
 beyond the fort, and then up and down hills and over ravines, 
 reaching here about nine this evening — the distance some fifteen 
 miles. 
 
 On the way I saw a ho^Tcet on a rope cross the Jhelum, the banks 
 being nearly 200 feet above the river. At about two-thirds 
 of the journey to-day I passed my men, then sat down to rest; 
 when the first men overtook me, I heard that three of my Coo- 
 lies had thrown down the luggage and run off. I hurried back, 
 and found it too true. The bearer was in full pursuit of them, 
 but without success, as a lot of women had hid them in some 
 huts. I felt much disposed to revenge myself on them by 
 setting fire to one of the huts, or pressing some of the women 
 into the service, and making them head the procession until the 
 Coolies were produced. However, we managed to get the things 
 on the horse, and off we started again. 
 
 About half way to this place, I got three other Coolies. This 
 is a village in name, consisting of only three houses. My tent is 
 pitched, and with plenty of straw carpeting^ I hope to be comfort- 
 able, though I am feeling feverish, but with light dinner, tea, and 
 a good night's sleep I hope to be all right by to-morrow. 
 
HUTTEA. 421 
 
 The road has been along the banks of the Jhelum all day, 
 much of the time on its verge, which descends perpendicularly 
 from 200 to 400 feet. On the opposite side it is nearly the same. 
 The river is so narrow, it seems like an immense chasm. This 
 evening I stood for some minutes in front of my tent, gazing on 
 the Jhelum as it rushed foaming and chafing by. 
 
 I've just suspended my rifle to one of the tent poles, my port- 
 folio and the shawls to the ridge pole, for fear the mice in the 
 straw may fancy them, or light-fingered gentry peep under the 
 tent. These valuables are over my head. I hope they will not 
 be disturbed, as I might suffer considerable inconvenience there- 
 from. 
 
 Jan. 8th, Huttea, 15 miles. — Another late start this morning. 
 The bearer was up by daylight to see the thanadar who lives six 
 miles off, and then Coolies had to be looked up. They had not 
 gone a hundred yards with their loads, when as I was mounting 
 my donkey, I heard a cry of a " Cooly run away." I had to get 
 another. The road, or path, was very narrow, and several very 
 deep ravines that made bad crossing. 
 
 I reached this place a few minutes before sundown, when I 
 pitched my tent. There are only about a dozen houses. Three 
 miles from Chakote, on the opposite bank, passed a fort named 
 Kila. I also saw a wedding possession which was preceded by a 
 drum. The people denied having any chickens, which I wanted 
 for dinner. I at last discovered two, and set some of my people 
 to catch them. The owner was discovered — an old hag, 
 who, by way of revenge, though I paid her double their value, 
 took up a position in front of my tent door and howled until I 
 threatened to have her taken to the river and ducked if she 
 did not clear out altogether. This threat succeeded in starting 
 her. I find I was near having a private conflagration in my tent 
 last night, the hot stone having burnt through the sheet, blanket, 
 and bed, without my being aware of it until this evening. 
 
 Jan. 9th, Maira, 18 miles. — This morning as usual detained 
 
422 FKOM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 for Coolies. We left the Jhelum, and in four hours ascended to 
 Chikar, where is a fort. Although I had sent a servant ahead 
 to ask for Coolies, I was obliged to wait an hour and a half more, 
 as all my other Coolies refused to go any further, though all were 
 very lightly loaded. 
 
 Leaving Chikar, descended into a valley and then rose a hill 
 about 2000 feet high, the summit commanding a magnificent 
 view ; we then descended to this place, consisting of half a dozen 
 houses. 
 
 All day I have been enjoying the luxury of a horse, saddle, 
 and stirrups, the saddle with a horn in front five inches high. 
 The only use I could apply it to was to crack some nuts on it. 
 Arriving here, the cutwal only half supplied my wants. When 
 I requested more and produced the Maharajah's purwancr, as 
 my authority, he coolly walked off home, as I found a few minutes 
 afterwards. Now a hungry traveller can't dine, with less than 
 some soup, a roast or a grill, and some dessert, : and I started off with 
 a Cooly, and my big cane to look the " gent " up. Finding he 
 lived too far, I made known my wants to some of the villagers, 
 who pretended not to understand, and indulged in some witticisms 
 at my expense, as I judged from seeing my Cooly enjoying a 
 quiet laugh. So I eked out my Hindoostanee with my cane, 
 which produced instant civility, and a comprehension of my 
 wants. 
 
 In very few minutes a pair of chickens and some eggs were 
 produced. As soon as T got into my tent, I heard the Cooly 
 relating, with much glee, to the servants and the Coolies, all the 
 proceedings, w^hich they seemed to enjoy highly. 
 
 To-morrow I shall have to assert the dignity of the Maharajah 
 and myself, by pulling the cutwal's beard, and giving him a 
 drubbing — for pardoning insolence is never appreciated here, but 
 looked upon as meanness or cowardice, though the man may 
 escape a flogging by it. 
 
 As we are encamped in very open ground, there is a great 
 preparation against robbers, everything being packed in my tent 
 
PHiLOSorHY. 423 
 
 so that, however insecure it may be against being entered, it will 
 take a quarter of an hour to get out. And then by way of sleep- 
 ing comfortably, the servants have made their straw beds against 
 the front of the tent. 
 
 Jan. Will, DuNNA, 10 miles. — Though we were all moving at 
 daylight, and ready for an early start, I had to wait three hours 
 for Coolies, which was endured with native philosophy, and con- 
 solatory thought, that I should probably reach Eawul Pindee 
 some time this week, or the next, and if not until the week after — 
 why better 3^et. Enshallah ! so took my rifle and had a little 
 practice at target shooting. 
 
 The cutwal did not make his appearance, knowing what he 
 deserved, and fearing he might get it. While waiting for the 
 Coolies, my bearer went to secure the horses I had yesterday, and 
 shouted out to me the boys were taking them away. So going 
 up to the place I found they were nearly ready for a " stampede." 
 However, I stopped that, and, after various other difficulties, at 
 last we got off". 
 
 I descended to a deep valley, and crossed by a ferry the Ugga 
 Muddur river; then rose about 3000 feet in five miles to 
 Dumma, w^here we arrived at two o'clock. After waiting three 
 hours in vain for Coolies I had the tent pitched. There is a fort 
 here with square towers, and portal built of mud. The thanadar 
 is off, and the cutwal is out shooting. 
 
 Jan. 11th, Dewal, 17 miles. — After our usual delay for Coo- 
 lies we got off at half-past eight, with a Sepoy to guard the 
 Coolies, and prevent their running away. The path was a very 
 rough one. "\Ye continued to ascend for some time, and then 
 winding along the edge of hills descended to the Jhelum at 
 Kwaollie ferry, a distance of seven miles. Here the river is from 
 sixty to seventy yards wide. "We crossed in a large scow, rowed 
 with one oar by two men, and two steered by another, both made 
 after the fashion of Polyphemus' club, from the trunk of a pine 
 tree, hewn down to a sort of blade. 
 
424 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 Then, witli the exception of our descent crossing the Eawur 
 Muddur, it was one continual ascent to this place. Half way 
 we passed a great number of scattered houses at a place called 
 Bogree. Here is a fort. I found the thanadar very civil. The 
 Jhelum is visible about two miles distant, meandering through 
 the narrow valley. On a high hill opposite is another mud 
 fort, and a number of houses. On the right of this place, on the 
 opposite side of a deep valley, is another village. This has quite 
 a large scattered population. 
 
 I saw a party escorting a bride to her new abode. She was 
 
 dressed in white, with a bundle on her head. The entire country 
 
 through which I have come to-day, is terraced from the valley 
 
 "to the summits of the mountains, and apparently fertile, — but the 
 
 population very inadequate to its wants. 
 
 The scenery, everywhere fine, has been magnificent to-day. 
 The natives appear to grow a large quantity of Indian corn, 
 .and a coarse kind of radish ; the two forming the principal food 
 of the working class. I have been obliged to take to a donkey 
 again, with my cloak for a saddle, and my legs practising pen- 
 dulum work. It is just ten o'clock, and my efficient domestics 
 kaving brought me the soup, I'll not delay the dinner any longer, 
 so bon nuit. 
 
 Jan. Vlili^ MuRREE. — I am happy to say I am once more on 
 English territory, and I believe beyond all further annoyance from 
 Coolies and village authorities. To-day, delayed as usual for 
 •Coolies, then starting on a donkey, my kitmagar ditto ; our road 
 -was a narrow rough path w^ith continued ascent to this place. 1 
 passed through a forest whose familiar trees — firs, pines, oaks, and 
 .shrubs, strongly reminded me of the United States. The valley 
 looked beautiful, and very productive. England made a terrible 
 and cruel mistake when she sold Cashmere, with a climate for 
 almost every product except the especially tropical fruits. It 
 produces sugar-cane, olives, and plantains, of the south; and 
 the more northern fruits and grains, wheat, corn, apples, 
 
RAWUL PINDEE. 425 
 
 peaches, pears, — and grapes from wliicli a tolerable wine is 
 made. 
 
 The forest trees are of the finest description, gigantic deodar 
 cedars, walnuts, etc, To-daj I've seen a species of holly and a 
 number of daffodils in bloom. This place is a resort of the offi- 
 cers stationed at Rawul Pindee about forty miles south, a new 
 station formed by Sir Charles Napier after the last Punjaub war, 
 to watch Goolaub Singh, 
 
 There are numerous bungalows here, finished, finishing, and 
 building. But as yet no travellers' bungalow, so I resort to my 
 tent again. It is very cold, and in addition to my foot-stone, I 
 am compelled to have one for my lap to keep my fingers warm 
 enough to hold my pen, while I try and finish some letters to 
 send off from Rawul Pindee. 
 
 Jan. ISth, Tkait, 13 miles. — I am lodged in a tolerable bun- 
 galow to-night, and having had a comfortable dinner, I am try- 
 ing to enjoy myself before a fine fire, getting here in a precious 
 bad humor, from having been obliged to walk the entire distance, 
 when I had a lame leg. The road is a continual descent all the 
 way. It is good for riding or driving. The place is very pret- 
 tily situated. 
 
 To-morrow I shall push through to Rawul Pindee, and let my 
 people follow in two marches. I have succeeded in obtaining a 
 lean horse, and a donkey, with Coolies for my luggage. One of 
 these pleaded sickness, but I pulled out my hunting-knife and a 
 cork-screw, and proposed making an incision in his arm, and 
 removing a piece, as an admirable specific ; whereupon he dis- 
 covered he was very much better, and would soon be quite well 
 again. 
 
 Jan. lAih, Rawul Pindee, 27 miles.— I started at half past 
 seven this morning, and my people too. I ojily had to pummel 
 the horseman and thanadar for refusing to give me a saddle 
 after they had promised it with their horse, and a little "Uncle 
 Tom" besides, for keeping me waiting while they went after it. 
 
426 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 The road, the first third of the way, lialf path, half native cart 
 road. The country is rather wild and pretty. I passed several 
 small tents of engineers superintending some bridges and new 
 road, then some small villages, and so on into the flat country 
 of the Punjaub, reaching this place at half-past three. Eawul 
 Pindee is only a medium native town, though much improved 
 since the English made the place a station. It is not visible 
 until you have approached within two miles. The cantonments 
 are nearly a mile beyond, 
 
 I rode up to the mess-house and found where Capt. C 
 
 lived. I heard he had gone out for a drive, and was puzzled 
 
 to decide whether to stop here or at another officer's, P 
 
 had given me a letter to. However, I decided to stop here, and 
 had only just dismounted, when an officer of his regiment came 
 
 in, and finding C out, and me alone, he took me over to 
 
 the mess-house to lunch. 
 
 On our return C came in. P , with his usual 
 
 forgetfulness, had not sent the introduction by mail as he said 
 he should ; luckily he had given me a letter of introduction, or I 
 
 should have felt very awkward. C was glad to see me, 
 
 and had written me a note which was with my dhooly at a station 
 nearer Peshawur, the way he thought I would come by, to ask 
 me to make him a visit. This evening dined with the mess of 
 his regiment, the 87th Eoyal Irish, where I made a number of 
 acquaintances, and had a very pleasant time. 
 
 Jan. loth. — This morning breakfasted at Capt. C 's, a 
 
 brother officer of C 's; they live nearly oj)posite each 
 
 other, and, for companionship, breakfast alternately at each 
 other's houses. 
 
 After breakfast C and I went to church. Then drove 
 
 to the camp of Col. B , C.B., 82d (Queen's), to whom I 
 
 had a letter of introduction from his cousin M , of 15th 
 
 Hussars, Bangalore. I found him a very jolly old fellow. He 
 and his regiment are marching down country from Peshawur. 
 
A DRIVE IN A MAIL-CART. 427 
 
 As he (of course) will not be at Pesliawur, he gave me two 
 
 letters, one to Major E , C.B., the Commissioner, and 
 
 another to the Deputy Commissioner at Peshawur, the two 
 " burra sahibs" (great men) of the place. 
 
 In the afternoon wc took a short ride, and on our return we 
 
 dined at C 's, where we met Col. B , and several 
 
 other officers, and had a delightful time. My servants came in 
 this evening. 
 
 *o- 
 
 Jan. IQth, Hassan Abdul. — Paid off, and got rid of all my 
 Coolies ; packed up, and sending my servant off for Lahore, and 
 to meet me at Delhi, while I start for Peshawur. I came on by 
 mail-cart to this place with my luggage, — and such a drive Pve 
 never taken, and hope not to do again. The mail-cart is a 
 vehicle on two wheels, without springs ; a box to put the mail in, 
 and on the top two seats, back to back. I sat on the rear one ; 
 we had balking horses at every stage, requiring to be pushed 
 both up and down hill. As for the gullies, as we approached 
 them, the driver gave an extra cut with his cudgel, and they 
 were "taken flying," nearly smashing my head to a jelly. 
 Sometimes the horses reared, and they reared so high, we rather 
 feared they would fall backwards. But to crown all, we got 
 within 200 yards of the bungalow, when horses and cart all 
 upset — I luckily managed to land safely, when we got righted. 
 No one was injured, though the driver and syce were somewhat 
 jammed. After getting dinner at the bungalow, I was off in 
 my dhooly. 
 
 Jan. 17th, Nowsiiera. — This morning I reached Attock at 
 half-past eight ; we came precious slow. The last lot of bearers, 
 I found on waking up, had dropped me, and were enjoying a 
 fire they had kindled, while the dhooly and I rested on the 
 road. So I quoted "Uncle Tom" with my hunting-whip, for 
 their having, by delays, disarranged all my plans. The road 
 was horribly dusty, and bearers very bad — yoking themselves by 
 
428 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 a cross-piece to the pole, instead of carrying it on their shoul- 
 ders, like the other bearers. The consequence, an awful 
 jolting, and an occasional jar, for by a slip the dhooly would 
 drop on the ground. I passed a large number of baggage 
 waggons and soldiers, going down to Ravf ul Pindee. 
 
 Attock is situated on a bend of the Indus, which is very wide 
 above the town, but I will give a more particular description 
 when I return. Then I shall stop and see it, — now I mvist hasten 
 on, or I may lose my dak. I came slowly on to this place, 
 where there is a temporary force. Near here, the hill people 
 come down in parties at night, and steal, often stopping tra- 
 vellers. 
 
 Jan. 18tJi, Peshawur. — I got here this morning at four, and 
 not finding a dak bungalow, I went to the Post Ofl&ce, where, 
 after putting my two carpet bags under charge of the Sepoy, and 
 my dhooly under his eyes, I pulled down the curtains, and 
 finished my nap ; for owing to the various delays at places on 
 the road, and last night, I have got here about ten hours later 
 than I expected. Besides the roads are very unsafe at night ; 
 all last night I had a siwar guard, and with that, my arms and 
 luck, I trusted to get through safely, and did luckily, without 
 occasion for any of my safeguards ; and as the siwar guard was 
 by the side of the dhooly I went to sleep, knowing he would 
 stick by me, and I should be awoke. Now I find I passed 
 through all the bad part of the road before taking the siwar. 
 
 On waking up at seven, I found that Capt. S was the 
 
 officer who had charge of the Post Ofiice, and that I had been 
 sleeping before his door. 
 
 Now a word on appointments, which you probably do not 
 understand. The service is divided into civil and military, who 
 are or are not educated at home, in colleges for the purpose, 
 according to circumstances. The civilians are termed cove- 
 nanted and uncovenanted. The former are so termed from 
 being appointed by friends or fimiily in the Board of Directors 
 
THE COVENANTED AND UNCOVENANTED SERVICE. 429 
 
 in England, and are usually educated at Halebury College. They 
 come out at about nineteen, and are collectors of moneys, taxes, 
 etc., deputies and assistants, according to ability and service. K 
 lucky, they rise to judgeships, secretaries of state, councils of 
 the presidencies, presidents at the courts of the native princes, 
 supreme council, and Lieutenant-Governor of the north-west 
 provinces, with salaries varying from 400 rupees ($200) a month, 
 to £10,000 ($50,000) a year; and I believe the Lieutenant- 
 Governor of the North-west Provinces receives £12,000. 
 
 The uncovenanted are those who receive pay while doing 
 duty, but can get no leave of absence without losing their posi- 
 tion, and receive no pension when they retire from the country ; 
 while the covenanted civilians get sick leave to go to the 
 "Cape," or England, and if compelled to retire after ten years of 
 service, are allowed a certain pension, and after thirty-five years 
 a very large pension. Always after ten years service tliey are 
 allowed six months to prepare to leave the country, and two 
 years' absence without losing their position or pay. 
 
 The military come out as cadets, from sixteen to twenty ; 
 often they are educated at Addiscombe; and if to go in the 
 artillery or engineers, it is absolutely indispensable. Besides, 
 when they get here, those who have ambition, qualify them- 
 selves in Hindoostanee and Persian, and by passing the examina- 
 tion, may be appointed interpreters, as they are called, for their 
 regiment, and receive additional pay ; or by cleverness get on the 
 staff, which brings extra pay ; or adjutant of his regiment, or 
 luckier still, get a civil appointment, which carries with the civil 
 pay the regimental pay, and promotion from time to time. Per- 
 haps sometimes they get put in an irregular cavalry regiment, 
 where the pay is high, sometimes postmasters, etc. There are a 
 great variety of offices — an ambitious, clever, hard-working man 
 may get if he works — and comes to India to do otherwise than 
 merely drag along. Many get so in debt by horse-racing, or 
 gambling, that they are obliged to borrow money of the banks. 
 To do that, they must insure their lives, and the rates of interest 
 
430 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 being liigli, it altogetlicr makes about twenty per cent, on the 
 sum borrowed, and they are thus prevented leaving the country. 
 
 A few years ago one of the banks broke, and there was great 
 rejoicing, for lots of these fellows were released and able to go to 
 England, when, otherwise, they would have lived and died in 
 India. 
 
 But to return to my subject. I sent in my card, and Capt. 
 
 S came out and welcomed me. Showing me my room, 
 
 I proceeded to make myself respectable after my late dusting, 
 for face and clothes were of an indescribable hue. Capt. and 
 
 Jkf PS. S went out for their morning ride : at breakfast I was 
 
 presented to her and was charmed. She has evidently been very 
 pretty, but suffered in health from the Indian climate. She has 
 
 the face and manners of E R , whom we all think 
 
 so lovely. 
 
 The climate of India, I find, affects women much more than 
 men who are prudent, as they are prevented from taking exer- 
 cise by the heat, while the men must take the exercise in per- 
 forming the duties of their service. Ladies are obliged to go 
 
 home every six or seven years to recruit. Mrs. S has been 
 
 here eight, and is going home in a few months. 
 
 A letter fi-om my banker at Calcutta informs me my boxes 
 have been shipped for New York. I also had a letter from 
 F , at Lahore, who writes for me to hurry back, as " pig- 
 sticking" has commenced, and he'll furnish me with a "mount" 
 and spears. 
 
 In hunting the boar, here they go on the ground well mounted, 
 and armed with a boar-spear with reed handle about nine feet 
 long ; the spear head is light and sharp. The brute is then beat 
 out of the jungle by the natives, and the moment he is seen all 
 put after him at full speed, and the man who can fix the pig 
 with his spear behind the shoulder first is best fellow. Sometimes 
 lie stands at bay, then he is dangerous ; but with a well-trained, 
 bold horse, and steady hand, there is not much danger, as you 
 ward off his attack by a thrust in front in his shoulder, and the 
 
A CONVERSATION ON SLAVERY. 431 
 
 Arab horse appears to understand by instinct that this is his 
 time to get out of the way. They are usually very careless and 
 sloachy in their gait. But after a gallop their eyes sparkle, and 
 they seem to have woke up. In hunting they are wondrous 
 quick on their feet, and will wheel almost as if on a pivot if 
 necessary, even when going at full gallop. They are most lova- 
 ble animals. 
 
 After breakfast this morning, while I was sitting alone in the 
 
 parlor, an officer of between forty and fifty (a Col. D ) 
 
 entered, we bowed, and after a few minutes conversation about 
 India, travelling, etc., he said, " I believe you are from America." 
 I told him I was. " Well-11 I've lately received a letter from 
 a lawj-er near Fredericksburg, in Virginia, in which he says my 
 brother and I have inherited an estate with some slaves, and he 
 wants me to sign a power of attorney for him to act for me. 
 Do you know what the land and slaves are worth ?" I told him, 
 although from New York, a free state, yet I had many southern 
 friends and acquaintances, and from hearing them speak of the 
 prices of slaves, I could give him a general idea if he could tell 
 me their age, sex, ability, and capacity for particular work ; but 
 I suppose you mean to free them, perhaps send them to Liberia, 
 as a ship leaves Baltimore, a neighboring city, several times a 
 year for this free settlement of blacks. "Ko, no, I think I shall 
 sell them, they will be so much happier in the country where 
 they have always lived." 
 
 Having seen two copies of " Uncle Tom's Cabin" lying on the 
 table (as Capt. S has the circulating library of the regi- 
 ment at his house), I thought I would have a little fun. So I 
 said, " Perhaps you are not aware of what a shocking system 
 slavery in the United States is, and how repulsive to every sen- 
 timent of religion and humanity. You have been many years 
 in India, and perhaps have never heard of all the atrocities com- 
 mitted on the poor slaves. If j'ou will read a book lately written 
 by Mrs. Stowe called ' Uncle Tom's Cabin,' of which I see there 
 are one or two copies belonging to the regimental library, you 
 
432 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 will probably change your mind on tbe subject of selling them." 
 " No, I don't care to read the book, for I've made up my mind 
 to sell them, they will be happier, and I would like to have the 
 money." I argued in favor of freeing them, citing the Duchess 
 of Sutherland, and talked of "shades of Wilberforce," while he 
 argued in favor of selling them for their happiness and his money, 
 for a few minutes longer, until I had carried the joke far enough 
 to find an Englishman's sympathy for slaves very disinterested 
 as long as it does not affect his own pocket. So he gave me the 
 description of the land and slaves, Sam, Juno, etc., and I told 
 him their value as well as I could by guess. 
 
 Notwithstanding all the pretended sympathy of the English in 
 England, and some few in India, for slaves, the English in India, 
 as a general rule, have very much the same idea, as to the natives, 
 that we have as to negroes ; and like all people who feel they 
 wont be likely to be held accountable for their acts, they strike 
 and kick the natives whenever it suits them. The kicking 
 sometimes gets them into difficulty, as the native is so subject to 
 spleen, which kicking brings on and kills. 
 
 I have been breakfasting with an officer and his wife when 
 I've seen the officer spring up from table and strike the " child- 
 man" (as the man-nurse is called), half a dozen hard blows with 
 his fist, and kick him before us both, because the man, in playing 
 with the child, happened to make him cry. 
 
 An officer told me, that at the fairs at Hurdwar slaves were 
 bought and sold every year — only it is done quietly. / know 
 that there are great numbers within a hundred miles of Calcutta, 
 who belong to the soil, and are bought and sold with it. On the 
 Malabar Coast in Southern India, there are great numbers of slaves. 
 
 While staying at the house of a Judge in Southern India, some 
 ladies and gentlemen were deprecating slavery in the United 
 States in the usual sympathetic style, and lauding England's 
 disinterestedness and nobleness in freeing the slaves in Jamaica, 
 etc., when the Judge interrupted them with saying, it was all 
 stuff about England's disinterestedness ; that she did so when it 
 
MAJOR EDWARDS. 433 
 
 suited lier purposes, but that there were plenty of places in India 
 where slavery existed, and that too with the full knowledge of 
 government, and he, as a judge, had often made out orders jor the 
 sale of slaves. 
 
 After the slave-dealing Colonel had left, Lieutenant M 
 
 of S 's regiment came in, a very nice fellow. As S 
 
 is overwhelmed with business, being on the staff, M has 
 
 offered to show me the town to-morrow. 
 
 This afternoon Captain, Mrs. S , and I, took a long 
 
 walk, the buggy and S 's horse following. We were soon 
 
 joined by Major W , of the artillery, a great friend of 
 
 the Captain and Mrs. S 's. Mrs. S getting tired 
 
 walking, I drove her in the buggy, while S and Major 
 
 "W went off for a gallop. 
 
 Jan. 19ih. — Captain and Mrs. S took their usual gallop 
 
 this morning. I preferred remaining at home — the pressure 
 against the saddle paining my lame leg, though I can walk half a 
 dozen miles without inconvenience. Had a number of morning 
 
 visitors (Mrs. S being a great favorite) ; among them a 
 
 Lieutenant E , of the artillery, son of General R , 
 
 to whom I have a letter of introduction from his cousin M , 
 
 of the loth Hussars, Bangalore, He says his father has lately 
 gone to England. 
 
 S went with me to call on Major Edwards, and present 
 
 my letter from Colonel B , of the 32d Queen's. He is the 
 
 Commissioner of all this part of the country, and was appointed 
 in the place of Colonel Mackinson, who was assassinated some 
 months since. He is a young man for the position, but is very 
 prominent, for he has always, under the trying circumstances 
 he has from time to time been placed, shown fine abilities. The 
 Deputy Commissioner, to whom I also have a letter, is out at 
 the camp near the Kohaut Pass, which is closed at present, there 
 being some difficulty with the hill people. So I shall not be- 
 able to see it, as I hoped. 
 
 28 
 
434 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 Eeturning to S 's, finding M , we rode down to 
 
 the city, which is a mile and a half distant. The principal streets 
 are wide, but the weather being cold, the people did not " shine 
 out" as in warmer days. The houses are common-looking, and 
 of mud and stone, whitewashed. The wares and merchandise 
 arc of all kinds, the furs and silks being the most curious. T 
 saw no really valuable furs. I bought one piece of silk, for 
 curiosit}'- ; it is from Bokhara. One side is glazed, like chintz. 
 I saw them winding floss silk ; the colors were principally red, 
 purple, and yellow (the favorite Sikh colors) which were very 
 brilliant. 
 
 The bazaar is an octagonal place, with the shops around the 
 sides of the interior, the rest being open. I saw them pounding 
 coloring matter in stone and wooden pots. The red is a mineral 
 dye, but of what substance I cannot learn. I then went to the 
 snuff-makers. They grow very good tobacco in Islamabad, and 
 here it is manufactured into capital snuff. The boxes are round 
 balls hollowed out, with an aperture for the snuff the size of a 
 large quill. 
 
 We got some fruit for Mrs. S . It comes from Cabnl, 
 
 in boxes or bales, packed in cotton, and these bales again in 
 larger ones, the size of cotton bales, and brought by camels. 
 The grapes are in boxes like fig-drums, each grajoe by itself, 
 with layers of cotton and grapes alternately. The apples were 
 fine, but not as highly flavored as ours. They also had dried 
 apricots and figs. 
 
 This afternoon I received an invitation for dinner to-morrow 
 evening, from Major and Mrs. Edwards, which I declined, Mr. 
 
 S having previously accepted one for me elsewhere. 
 
 M dined with us this evening. 
 
 Jan 20th. — Raining to-day. This morning reading the papers, 
 the steamer having just arrived. To-day several visitors, and 
 this evening a dinner-party at Major L 's. 
 
 Jan. 21st. — Raining again. Received an invitation from Lieu- 
 
PROWLING KHYBERS. 435 
 
 tenant E , for dinner at the artillery mess, for Monday 
 
 evening. This afternoon, having cleared up, M called and 
 
 drove me out. It being his night for duty, we went half round 
 the station, visiting the outposts; then to hear the band. This 
 
 evening to the mess dinner of the 9th Infantry, S and 
 
 M 's regiment. I was introduced to Colonel L , the 
 
 commanding officer. I met Colonel D , and several others 
 
 I knew. When we left for home. Colonel D and 
 
 M were about starting on an inspection tour of the 
 
 station, a circuit of six or seven miles, the night very cloudy 
 and dark, with a chance of meeting a Khyber with his knife — 
 a medium between a butcher's cleaver and a broadsword, and 
 sharp as a razor, being carried in a wooden sheath, like all 
 native weapons — besides a sharp ear for the sentries' challenges, 
 or a chance of being shot by mistake. 
 
 This place is only about four miles from the Khyber Pass, so 
 celebrated in the Afghanistan campaign. It is thronged with 
 Afghans and Khybers, a murderous set ; and so unsafe, no one 
 dares go near it. They are obliged to keep in this station, and 
 within a circuit of 100 miles, 30,000 troops, 500 always being 
 on guard here. The cantonment is a mile from the city. There 
 are several European and the native regiments. 
 
 A year ago, while a lady and gentleman were riding on horse- 
 back, they noticed two men, apparently praying, by the road- 
 side, and as they were about to pass, the men sprung up and 
 seized the horses, killed the officer, and robbing both, rode off 
 with the horses, leaving the lady to walk home. The officers 
 always have their buggies brought to the mess-house before 
 dark, and wait there, as they are afraid, if they are brought after 
 dark, prowling Khybers will take them away from the syces. 
 
 Horses are constantly cut out of the stables by the Khybers 
 during the wet season, though a guard is stationed at the door. 
 The stables are built of kutcha, or unburnt brick, which, as it 
 absorbs much of the moisture, is easy to cut. The Khybers take 
 advantage of this, and quietly cut a hole, large enough for the 
 
436 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 horse to walk out of on the opposite side from the guard, and as 
 the ground is wet and soft, the horse's tread is not heard. Every 
 house has its guard, who makes his rounds every five minutes, 
 armed with loaded gun, fixed bayonet, and sword : — thus in 
 entering your own compound, you give notice to your guard, or 
 you may be shot, or get a few inches of bayonet. 
 
 Jan. 22d. — Sunday ; all of us to church, morning and after- 
 noon : the sermons dull, and ladies plain. The church, at 
 present, is in the masonic lodge, an earthquahe having destroyed 
 a new one they were building. This afternoon I drove Mrs. 
 
 S around the cantonment. This evening, Major "W 
 
 dined with us. 
 
 Jan. 23fZ. — To-day cloudy. Major W sent an elephant, 
 
 and S , M , and I went to see the " Tamara" (crowd, 
 
 as they call it), some native festival, the name of which we could 
 not learn. As we passed through the city, we saw great num- 
 bers of women and children on the low flat roofs, many with an 
 affair which formed cap, robe, and screen for their faces. They 
 were of white, and the screen a sort of hemstitch grating or 
 openwork. These people, and the Afghans, are very jealous of 
 their women. 
 
 Then out of the city at the opposite side, passing into the 
 country, and going about three miles. The entire distance was 
 through a crowd more or less dense. Arriving at the spot the 
 crowd became greater, and extended over a larger space. Here 
 were streets of pastry-cooks making bread, frying chipatties, sau- 
 sages, and kibobs. There were also fruit and toy venders. 
 
 Horsemen were trying to spear an orange as they galloped 
 past it at full speed; jugglers were climbing reed poles with 
 chatties (earthen jars) on their heads ; one balanced himself 
 beautifully on the centre of his back, on a pole not much larger 
 than my arm. There were thousands of people in all colors and 
 costumes, and on every sort of animal, from a donkey and buf- 
 
A SHOCK FROM AN EARTHQUAKE, 437 
 
 falo to an elephant. The latter are capital for a crowd, raising 
 you above everything, while they move so carefully through, 
 you never need feel afraid of any one being injured by them, 
 however dense the crowd may be. You have rather an odd 
 feeling at first, when they descend a steep hill, or cross a wide 
 ditch by stepping over. 
 
 This afternoon M drove me out, and took me to the 
 
 artillery mess. There were great numbers present, it being 
 guest night. I knew many of them, and was introduced to 
 many more ; among them Colonel Halifax, of the 7oth Queen's, 
 which has just arrived here; he reminded me much of father in 
 appearance. I had a very pleasant evening. It rained as we 
 came home. 
 
 Jan. lUli. — Nothing new — been raining all day. This even- 
 ing dined at Colonel B 's. Not being able to go to Kohaut, 
 
 I am waiting impatiently for a grand review, which is to take 
 place on Thursday. Friday I am to dine at Major Edwards, 
 
 Jan. 2bili. — This morning a daylight walk to see the cavalry 
 parade, which I found, on getting on the spot, was prevented by 
 
 the wet ground. After breakfast M called and drove me 
 
 to Colonel L 's. I saw him and Mrs. L . They 
 
 invited me to dine wdth them on Saturday, which I was obliged 
 
 to decline. This afternoon M and I took a gallop to the 
 
 city to see some Sikh sword-blades, but could not find any worth 
 buying. 
 
 Last night there was quite a severe shock in the place from an 
 earthquake. I had sat down to the table in my room to write a 
 letter, and falling asleep, was awoke by some little birds flutter- 
 ing against the window. Just then S came in, in his 
 
 chogar, and startled me by saying, " I , if you feel another 
 
 one, you had better scuttle out of your dressing-room door, and 
 Mrs. S , the children, and I will escape out of her dressing- 
 room door." On asking what was the matter, he told me they 
 had felt the shock of an earthquake. 
 
438 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 Jan. 26lh. — It rained very hard all last niglit and to-day. The 
 rain for several nights past, has made great change in the grain 
 markets. The poor natives, with their low wages, feeling it very 
 much ; besides which, there are apprehensions of a famine next 
 
 year. This evening Major W dined with us, a family 
 
 festival, keeping the birthday of one of the children — a pretty 
 little fellow of four. 
 
 After dinner S , his wife, and AY were sitting 
 
 around the fire, talking about Mrs. S — '■ going to England 
 
 with the children, and the expense (considerable of an item from 
 this extreme northwest of the country, for a party of a lady^ 
 three children, and nurse — somewhere between $1,500 and 
 $2,000 — when it has to be saved out of a captain's pay). In the 
 midst of the calculation, one of the children, who were clamber- 
 ing on and over an arm of the sofa, fell down. I was standing 
 by the fire looking at the children, and saw the boy fall, and 
 that it was only an ordinary tumble. As they started up in 
 affright, supposing he had broken his neck, I exclaimed there's 
 £50 saved. Finding the child was not injured, they all laughed 
 at my calculating Yankeeism, as they termed it. 
 
 Yesterday an ofiicer rode into his mess compound, and hooked 
 his bridle to the post. After a few minutes he heard a horse's 
 hoofs, and looked out of the window to see if his horse was 
 standing quiet, when, to his amazement, he saw an Afghan 
 going down the road as hard as he could on his own horse, that 
 he had just stolen. 
 
 Jan. 27th. — Still rainins;. The houses here are all built of 
 unburnt brick, and so absorb much of the water. Our house 
 leaks badly, and so does every one in the place. This morning 
 
 I received a note from Major E , postponing their dinner 
 
 party ; the weather is so bad, and mud so deep, the roads are 
 almost impassable. While at breakfast, an ofiicer came in to 
 report a native had been found about a third of a mile from the 
 house, with his throat cut — S is brigade major. 
 
CONTINUED RAIN. 439 
 
 Jan. 2Sth. — More rain; partially cleared up, and I got a 
 momentary glimpse of the sun for the first time in three days. 
 I've been amusing the children, making them a humming-top. 
 
 Jem. 29ih.—Last night almost a deluge, besides thunder and 
 lightning. The roads are very muddy, and the clay soil makes 
 them so slippery, the natives can but just move light, and cer- 
 tainly not with a dhooly. For three days past the mail has 
 come in soaked. 
 
 Yesterday we were all very much amused by a note from the 
 Brigadier of the station, who in his old age has taken to himself 
 a young wife, whose first move, as soon as possible, was to start 
 for England. Hearing most of the directions were illegible from 
 
 the wet state of the mail-bags, he wrote S to open any 
 
 letter he suspected as his, and look for the signature " Chickey," 
 as he expected a letter from his wife, who never signed her own 
 name. We thought it a very appropriate designation consider- 
 ing the disparity of years. 
 
 Jan. oOih. — Another rainy nignt ; the house so soaked, every 
 room leaking, and some fliirly afloat ; parts of the best houses 
 are constantly falling, and if the rain continues, they will all soon 
 be down, and the people tenting. Our house is leaking so that 
 last night I had to get up several times to move my bed. The 
 houses are all slightly built, the station not having been occu- 
 pied very long, and the officers, when they built, were quite 
 uncertain how long they would be allowed to remain. 
 
 All the houses in the different stations are private proj^erty, 
 and real estate is not very desirable property to hold, as in most 
 instances the money for building is borrowed of a bank, at the 
 rate of 12 to 15 per cent., besides the life insurance, which 
 
 increases it to nearly 25. I offered Mrs. S last night my 
 
 life preserver, in case the water got very deep in her room. 
 
 I have been trying in vain to find out something of the history 
 of Peshawur, but people here know much more of parades, drills,. 
 
440 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 kutcherrj proceedings, and of sucli like, than of Indian history. 
 If there had been an American missionary here, he would have 
 told me all about it. It is very ancient, and for centuries was 
 "picked and pulled" by the contending powers. 
 
 Of the earlier powers I know nothing, but of the later ones, 
 Mussulman and Indian, Afghan and Mahratta, Afghan and 
 Sikh, and now Afghan and Anglo-Saxon. There is nothing in 
 the city denoting antiquity. But then it is the custom in India 
 to build of such frail material, that almost everything perishes in 
 a few years. 
 
 The English are expecting work in the spring, for it is known 
 that 30,000 additional troops are on their way up, but whether 
 as a precautionary move, or for another trip to Cabul is not 
 known. Now that they are in possession of the Punjaub and 
 Peshawur, they need not fear such, a disastrous campaign as the 
 former one. 
 
 Among the odd fashions they have introduced here, is that of 
 having carpets of a peculiar kind of cotton-cloth, stamped in pat- 
 terns like Brussels and other handsome carpets ; — being laid over 
 mats, they would not be detected by strangers, except on close 
 observation, and among the people here, they are quite the 
 " mode," the first cost being small, and the transport cheap, they 
 are so light, and over matting they last a long time. This after- 
 noon, it having cleared up a little, I drove Mrs. S out, the 
 
 torse, not having been in harness for nearly a week, and in bis 
 display of fine spirits almost spilt us in a ditch. 
 
 Jan. 31. — To-day it has brightened up a little. The carpenter 
 who has been working at my dhooly having brought it home, 
 I've laid my dak, and shall try the road to-morrow morn- 
 
 mg. Mrs. S got some supplies ready for me, and 
 
 they were much amused at my traveller style of arranging 
 them. 
 
 S has been telling me this evening, what a " roasting" 
 
 Colonel D has had at all the messes in the station, for 
 
ATTOCK. 441 
 
 coming to see that American, to price and inquire about selling 
 his Yirghiia slave property. 
 
 Feb. 1, Attock. — At daylight this morning, I started off my 
 dhooly and luggage, while I delayed for a comfortable break- 
 fast, and then galloped after my things which I overtook twelve 
 miles out. I have been stopping so long with Captain and Mrs. 
 
 S , they seem like old friends, especially Mrs. S , who 
 
 is by far the nicest woman I have met in India. The roads were 
 very muddy. I passed numerous baggage trains belonging to 
 officers and soldiers on the way to Peshawur. 
 
 At Nowshera (half way) I passed two or three regiments of 
 infantry and irregular cavalry in camp, and then on to this place, 
 a distance of 45 miles. At the last Poller station (it being dark) 
 the man in charge inquired if I wished a siwar ; I replied yes, 
 and then he began to question me about my order in Hindostanee. 
 I pleaded ignorance of Hindostanee, and asked in very bad lingo 
 for the guard, whom he ordered up (probably supposing I was a 
 Queen's officer), and then I started again. 
 
 I reached this place at ten in the evening, and as the bridge 
 over the Indus had been carried away, owing to the rains, 
 the men took me to the fort, and placed the dhooly just inside 
 the entrance, and luggage at its side, and I hope to sleep comforta- 
 bly in. the dhooly to-night. 
 
 Feb. 2, HussAN Abdul. — I was awoke this morning by the 
 noise in the fort. Starting the men, I stopped on the high bank 
 of the river to sketch the town and fortifications on the opposite 
 side, which looks imposing from this. Then crossed in a ferry- 
 boat ; the river running very rapidly. Ascending the bank, I 
 passed through the town. It is an ancient citj^, but of what date 
 I cannot learn. Then on to this place there being nothing in the 
 city to see. Its chief curiosities are its old Mahommedan walls 
 and towers. On the road here I passed a wing of the 7oth regi- 
 ment (Queen's), in camp. 
 
442 FKOM "WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 This is tHe beautiful valley mentioned in Lalla Eookh, wliere 
 tlie Emperors stopped on their way to Cashmere. How they 
 contrived to get this in their route from Delhi, I cannot imagine. 
 I think it must have been on their road from Cabul (one of their 
 capitals) to Cashmere. There is a small valley and the remains 
 of an old garden, also a few small and old tombs. I shall leave 
 here at nine this evening, and then on by night dak to Eawul- 
 Pindee. 
 
 Feb. 3, Eawul-Pindee. — ^Nothing of note during the night. 
 At daylight this morning, passing the lines of the 87th regiment, 
 
 I saw them out on parade, so took possession of C 's house, 
 
 and had completed my toilet by the time he returned. This 
 
 afternoon I took a walk around the cantonment with C , to 
 
 see the improvements, barracks, gardens, etc. The soldiers receive 
 twelve cents (of our money) per day for working — most of them 
 are very willing to do so, and it is of great benefit this cool weather, 
 as by their drill they have very little exercise to keep them in 
 health. When we returned, I went to the mess-house to see the 
 papers, and this evening dined there — and being guest night we 
 had the band. 
 
 Feb. 4. — It is quite cold here ; we see quantities of snow on 
 
 the mountains. "We had an of&cer, Captain C , of the 87th 
 
 to breakfast with us. Then C and I rode to the town, and 
 
 through the bazaars which are rather curious. The town other- 
 wise is a very common affair. To the mess-house for lunch ; and 
 
 this afternoon C had his company out at ball practice, 
 
 and shooting by sections. They shot very well. 
 
 His is the first company of this, which is a grenadier regiment. 
 His company average 5if th feet — an extraordinary height. I am 
 told the regimental average is greater than that of any regiment of 
 the line in service. 
 
 On our way home, we met Colonel Tremanhere, a very dis- 
 tinguished engineer officer. C asked him to dine with 
 
JHELUM AND GOOJERANWALLAH. 443 
 
 him, but lie was engaged to tlie Colonel's, and said lie would, if 
 possible, go round to the mess to see me if he could get away ; 
 
 but not being able to leave the Colonel's, he called at C 's. 
 
 This evening I dined at the mess, and off at eleven. 
 
 Feb. 5, Jhelum. — We jogged along all night, and just at day- 
 light I saw some old ruins, one of which was called Bucephalus' 
 monument, half Mussulmanic, half Grecian — probably, in being 
 repaired by the Mussulmauns, they have added a few daubs of 
 their taste. However, you must judge for yourself from my 
 sketch. 
 
 Part of the road we have come is horrible. At mid-day I 
 reached a bungalow where I did the amiable to some of Mrs. 
 
 S 's nice viands she kindly prepared on my leaving Pesh- 
 
 awur. At eleven this evening my bearers deposited me in front 
 of the dak bungalow at this place, where I have been waiting 
 in a most unamiable humor for an hour, expecting other bearers 
 and as they don't appear to be coming, I shall have my dhooly 
 and self moved to the Chokree ofiice. 
 
 About twenty miles south of this, the battle of Chillianwallah 
 was fought during the last Sikh campaign in '49, the battle in 
 which Lord Gough was defeated by the native or Sikh forces, 
 only the latter were not aware of their success, and consequently, 
 not taking advantage of it, the English army was saved. 
 
 Feh. 6ih, Monday, GooJER.iNWALLAH. — After a long delay I 
 succeeded in getting my Coolies, and crossed the river Jhelum 
 (the ancient Hydaspes), the same I sailed on in Cashmere. This 
 is a large river, and the only one of all that intersects the Pun- 
 jaub, that is navigable with safety to its mouth. It joins the 
 Indus about fifty miles north of Moultan. The bridge of boats 
 having been carried away by the rains, I went over in a large 
 ferry boat at one o'clock in the morning. 
 
 Eeaching Goojrat at twelve to-day, I stopped to see the Assist- 
 ant Commissioner C who had lately forwarded my servant, 
 
444 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 and lie gave me a " feed " and horse on my way to Cashmere. 
 Then on a few miles further to Woozerabad, where I had a pros- 
 pect of spending the night at the gate of the city, for the old 
 villain of a cutwal would not give me Coolies. I then tried my 
 luck with the bungalow kitmagar, and he would not do anything 
 until I throttled him, and gave him a good shaking, and a promise 
 of backsheesh if he got them quickly. 
 
 Four miles from the city is a cantonment and European regi- 
 ment, but no Europeans reside at or in the town. I found the 
 bridge over the Chenaub also carried away, and was ferried 
 across in the rain. This is one of the worst rivers in the Pun- 
 jaub to cross, sometimes occupying eight hours. 
 
 Feb. 1th. — Got back here at half-past twelve. I found F 
 
 sick, and also his Cousin A , of the Artillery, who is stay- 
 ing with him. W was just finishing breakfast, I was 
 
 most happy to lend a helping hand at the meal, and I have been 
 
 keeping company with F and A , in the house 
 
 all day. They have had a number of balls and all sorts of 
 
 gaieties since I left for Cashmere. M , the staid Secretary 
 
 of the Chief Commissioner, having indulged in quite a magnifi- 
 cent affair. 
 
 Feb. 8ih. — Drove out this morning. This afternoon took a long 
 
 walk among the old ruins of the place. A 's leave having 
 
 expired, he has returned to his regiment. I have just received 
 an invitation from M to dine with him to-morrow. To- 
 night I have dined alone, except F keeping me company 
 
 in the room, for he is sitting by the fire still sick, and W 
 
 dining at one of the regimental messes. 
 
 Feb. 9th. — A long walk this morning to the race-course and 
 other places : met two or three acquaintances, and saw one horse 
 taking his gallop. After breakfast I drove to the Botanical 
 Gardens and took a sketch of Lahore and the old Palace. Then 
 

 Sketched by the Author. 
 
 MOivUMENT TO BUCEPHALUS, PUNJAUB. 
 
 See page 443. 
 
SIKH SWORDS. 445 
 
 drove past the Palace, which is mostly built of browu stone, 
 though with some marble, stucco, and a quantity of mosaic in 
 colored tiles, the effect of which is both curious and pleasing in 
 an Eastern country, but would be shocking anywhere else. The 
 
 colors are blue, red, and yellow. This evening to M 's. I 
 
 met a very pleasant party of gentlemen, all civilians, with the 
 exception of Captain R . 
 
 Feh. 10th. — This morning wet and drizzling, but I was off 
 walking, and on my return examined some Sikh swords that 
 had been brought for my inspection — but I saw none worth buy- 
 ing. They, as a general rule, are curved like the Turkish sabres, 
 and with an absurdly small handle, the blades are very heavy ; 
 the best ones are very thick until just before reaching the edge, 
 when they are ground down very suddenly. The good ones are 
 the best of steel. During the war an officer had a personal 
 encounter with a Sikh, who struck a blow with his sword at the 
 blade of the other — it slipped and struck the steel guard, cutting 
 a gash quarter of an inch deep without turning the edge, as was 
 afterwards discovered. 
 
 All the swords that were given up have been examined and 
 re-examined, and those worth anything were bought up. 
 
 I then drove to see the American missionaries, only one being 
 at home, the other having gone to Rawul-Pindee to establish a 
 school. The Government having given them an allowance of 180 
 rupees ($90) a month, and a house for the purpose, and permission 
 to several of the soldiers in the Queen's regiments stationed there 
 to teach a certain number of hours in the schools, under the 
 mission, and they expect large contributions from the officers in 
 that place. The people here are very liberal, all giving from 5 
 to 100 rupees ($2 50 to $50) per mo7it\ the last sum being 
 given anonymously. 
 
 The missionary establishment here consists of two missionaries, 
 who have been here since '49. They have met with great success, 
 having three schools ; in the largest one they teach, and have 250 
 
446 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 scholars — the two others are taught by natives, but under their 
 superintendence. The scholars are mostly Hindoos, they being 
 
 less bigoted than the Mussulmauns. F says he often sees 
 
 one of the missionaries preaching in the streets of the city. Like 
 all the other American missionaries in this country, they are 
 very hard workers. 
 
 Botli of these missionaries are from Orange County, New 
 York, and sent out by the General Presbyterian Assembly. He 
 seemed very glad to see a countryman, and says I am the only 
 American, except missionaries, he has ever seen in this part of the 
 country, and the only American who has ever been in Cashmere. 
 I asked him if he had ever heard of a Dr. Harlan, from Philadel- 
 phia, whom I recollect seeing in New York, when a child, and 
 hearing he had been opposing the English at the court of some 
 Eastern sovereigns, m some part of the East or in India. 
 
 He said, yes — that Sir Henry Lawrence, late Commissioner in 
 the Punjaub, gave Mr. Forman (his associate missionary) his 
 history, which was, that, coming out to Burmah as apothecary on 
 board a ship in '25, at the time of the first Burmese campaign, 
 when, owing to the cholera, there was a great demand for surgeons 
 for the sick, he got employment from the East India Government. 
 The war terminating, they had no further occasion for the services 
 of these extra assistants, and Harlan was paid off with the rest. 
 He was much annoyed at it, and having learned Hindostanee 
 while in Burmah, he wandered up country, and found employ- 
 ment under Runjeet Singh, who was then in the height of his 
 prosperit}^, he remained there from about '27 to '35 or '36, having 
 risen step by step until he was Governor of Goojrat. 
 
 Runjeet Singh was opposed to capital punishment, except in 
 rare cases, but contented himself by maiming, cutting off noses, 
 hands, arms, ears, etc. ; Harlan attempted the same, but to such 
 an extent that Runjeet Singh and he quarrelled, and Harlan left; 
 but he took good care to have all his money out of the country 
 before his iinal outbreak with Runjeet Singh. He then went to 
 Dost Mahommed at Caubul, where he got employment under him. 
 
ICE BY ARTIFICIAL MEANS. 447 
 
 and rose high in confidence and command, being a clever man, 
 with fine appearance. 
 
 At last the war broke out with England, and Dost Mahommed 
 supposing him to be an Englishman, was distrustfid of him, 
 especially as he asked for command in the army. So he dis- 
 missed him, and gave the command to his son Ackbar Khan. 
 But even to the last, Harlan gave them good advice, and tried to 
 pursuade them to fortify the Bolan, and other passes, when they 
 would have cut the English completely ofi", instead of their reach- 
 ing Cabul as they did, for they supposing him to be acting false, 
 did the reverse of everything he advised. 
 
 He then returned to the Punjaub, and stopped a short time at 
 the house of Sir Henry Lawrence. While there, one of the 
 servants stole 100 rupees from him. He told Sir Henry Lawrence, 
 but he not knowing how to get it, told Harlan so. Harlan then 
 asked permission to be allowed his own way. So Sir Henry said 
 "yes," only he was not to injure any of the servants. Harlan 
 had all the servants in the house called to his room, when he let 
 them see him lock the door; then drawing his sword, and looking 
 as fierce as he could, which " was some," told them he would cut 
 the head off of every man in the room if the thief did not con- 
 fess and restore the money. The fellows knowing Harlan's repu- 
 tation, got in an awful fright, and the guilty man confessed. 
 
 F has just been telling me how successful they have 
 
 been collecting ice this winter since I have been away. Not 
 having weather cold enough to freeze ponds, they obtain it by 
 artificial means. An immense quantity of small holes are dug with 
 a hoe, over which straw is laid; then on these, thousands of flat 
 earthen chatties are set. The night before they expect a frost, 
 they put in them about an inch or inch and a half of water, and 
 arranged in this way it will freeze at 33° and 34°. At daylight 
 the next morning, hundreds of men, women and children are at 
 work picking out the ice, which is hurried into the ice-house, and 
 there packed down hard. Sometimes of a morning, they have 
 in this way obtained from four to eight tons, and so far, in about 
 
448 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE, 
 
 sixty days since I left, they have collected 320 tons ! This allows 
 them two pounds a day or a share (of $2 50 contribution a season,) 
 per day, for four months. But F and W are luxu- 
 rious, and have sixteen shares or 82 pounds a day during that 
 period. This expense of $2 60 a share covers all charges, of pans (of 
 which they used great numbers this last year, ordering 1,000,000, 
 as many get broken in picking the ice out), ice-house expenses, 
 eight water-carriers to fill the pans, and 200 men, women, and 
 children who are out before daylight collecting the ice. 
 
 As F still continues sick, and cannot find any friend who 
 
 is going "pig-sticking," I must give up the sport for the present. 
 
 Feb. Hill. — To-day I bought a specimen of Lahore silk which 
 
 is considered curious. Then drove F to his cutcherry, 
 
 and went in to see how they managed matters, but nothing of 
 any importance came up. The magistrate is judge, counsel, and 
 jury. He takes his instructions and law, from a sort of "revised 
 statutes," a ponderous volume — a law library in itself. 
 
 The early age at which civilians and military men receive 
 appointments in India, and the varied requisitions in service of all 
 kinds, many of which are of high responsibility, and all requiring 
 prompt and decisive action, call forth their energies and talents 
 at an unusually early age, and produce a precociousness not 
 seen in any other part of the world. A man at thiry-five may 
 have arrived at almost the highest power and ofl&ce in the country, 
 and with more natural abilities than most men in active public 
 life in other parts of the world who are ten or fifteen years his 
 senior. 
 
 Generally the civilians, almost as soon as appointed, which is 
 from eighteen to twenty, are sent into districts where they are 
 constantly obliged to act on their own judgment. They are 
 called upon continually to settle disputes between natives more 
 or less high in power and position, quell disturbances, make 
 treaties, and dispense justice. 
 
 The military are often sent on separate commands, on cxpedi- 
 
SALARIES OF CIVILIANS. 449 
 
 tions to quell riots or insurrections, convey treasure, and if in an 
 irregular regiment, where there are very few European officers to 
 the entire regiment, a very young officer may have the full 
 command devolve upon him, as was the case with a friend of 
 mine who was only about twenty-two, and yet was the third 
 officer in his regiment. 
 
 W and F both act as judges except in criminal 
 
 cases involving capital punishment. In those they act as com- 
 missioners to collect evidence. They also act as collectors of 
 taxes, superintendents of roads, prisons, and public improvements 
 generally. According to the performance of their work and 
 evidence of ability, they are usually promoted, influence 
 acting here as in other places. 
 
 W has been in the country nine years, and is rather 
 
 high up, being clever and attentive to liis duties. He receives 
 
 $6000 per annum. F has been here seven years and 
 
 receives $4,200 — in another year he will be where W has 
 
 been f ^r a year past, and will then receive his $6000. Both after 
 they have served ten years, will receive nearly double that sum, 
 and after fifteen a proportional increase and so on. These are 
 very common instances of the way in which civilians are paid 
 here. 
 
 F says one of the most common causes of difficulty is 
 
 the dower or difficulties arising from marriages contracted for 
 children by their parents, to which I have before alluded, and 
 now they are just inducing the people (instead of bringing suits 
 as at present, to obtain an order compelling the parent to furnish 
 another daughter in lieu of the one who has died, or to accept 
 another son in lieu of the one who has died, which they have 
 no power to grant,) to bring a suit for damages to recover the 
 value of the presents or dower advanced by the family of the boy. 
 
 It is astonishing the manner in which this once turbulent Sikh 
 country has settled down into such a quiet, industrious district, 
 rarely any riot or disturbance, where only four or five years ago,, 
 the country was scoured by armed bands, and every man went 
 
 29 
 
450 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 armed, and war the sole purpose of their existence. After the 
 war, the government offered a certain sum for all arms brought 
 in to different points, during which time immense numbers were 
 received, Now there are a large number of canals for artificially 
 irrigating the country, roads are being made, taxes reduced, and 
 in every possible form civilization is advanced. 
 
 The English have done more to advance the Punjaub by their 
 judicious management, and freedom from the restraint of old 
 customs (which it takes the English an interminable time to 
 work free from) than has been done in any other part of the 
 country, in four times the period. The whole force emploj^ed 
 has been 14,000 police, who are mostly Sikhs, and that in a coun- 
 try where five years ago, 40,000 men were under arms, and Lord 
 Gough, with from 25,000 to 30,000, nearly thoroughly defeated 
 several times, and four very severe battles fought before the Sikhs 
 were put down. 
 
 The last, or Punjaub war, commenced in this way : — Moolraj, 
 the Governor of Mooltan, wished to resign ; he had made a mint 
 of money by the artificial irrigation from canals at Mooltan, 
 besides enriching the country. But the people would not let 
 iiim resign. He informed the Resident, that if he would send 
 some one to take his place, he would resign the power, and 
 requested that it should not be mentioned. It was spoken of, 
 and reached the ears of the Sikhs at Mooltan. 
 
 When Lieutenant Ao;new and another were sent down with a 
 company of native troops to take charge, they encamped half a 
 mile from the city, and went in with a few soldiers to see the 
 Governor, returning through the town to the camp. The natives 
 creating a riot, these two officers were murdered before they 
 reached their camp, and the soldiers joined the Sikhs. 
 
 A Sikh general then started for the northern part of the 
 Punjaub to collect troops, and get an army together, while 
 Moolraj 's son fortified the city. This was besieged, and after a 
 while taken, and several desperate battles fought, finishing with 
 the one at Goojrat. Before this war there had been a regency ; 
 
THE SHADRA GARDENS. 451 
 
 after it tlie English took possession, as a country fairly gained 
 by conquest twice — forbearance now ceasing to be a virtue. 
 
 Feb. 12th. — This morning to church : this afternoon at home. 
 W has gone to the Shadra Garden, to arrange for a " pic- 
 nic " to-morrow, and F despairing of getting well on the 
 
 doctor's hands, has tried a remedy of his own — a gallop of ten 
 miles out of town, to look up new ground for a "pig-sticking" 
 expedition, and one for a jackal hunt, as soon as he gets well. 
 
 Feb. 13th. — I received an invitation from Mr. M , one 
 
 of the Chief Commissioners, for dinner on Thursday, which I 
 had to decline, as I leave to-night. At noon I drove an officer 
 
 friend of F 's to the Shadra Gardens, and tomb of Jehan- 
 
 Ghir and Noor-Mahal, as Mr. Thomasson (the late Lieutenant- 
 Governor of the North-west Provinces) a distinguished oriental 
 scholar, has ascertained by an inscription on the tomb. The Taj 
 at Agra is generally supposed to be her burial-place. On the 
 ground we found about forty gentlemen and ladies, two or three 
 of the latter very pretty. Had I been an officer here, I should 
 have lost my heart to one of them. The day was passed very 
 pleasantly with games, dancing, etc. ; one of the games, archery^ 
 had very pretty prizes. Then a capital tiffin under large 
 awnings, a lovely spot near the banks of the river, with fine 
 trees, and the beautiful tomb, surrounded by a portico, thus 
 making a delightful promenade. The regimental band furnish- 
 ing the various music. 
 
 After sunset we descended the river in a large row-boat, the 
 band followed in another playing. In passing one spot, there were 
 three echoes to the music, and a full moon contributed her poetic 
 charms to the loveliness of the scene. On the way home, in a 
 lady's carriage, she gave me an invitation to her sister's wedding, 
 for Thursday, which I had to decline, and at ten this evening I 
 shall be off for Delhi.* 
 
 * Poor W , during the recent mutiny, he was found one morning 
 
452 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 Feb. 14iA, EiVER Beas. — I started last evening at ten, and 
 reached Umritzur this morning at half-past nine. While break- 
 fast was preparing, I sallied out, and took another look at the 
 town and beautiful tank. During the wars between the Sikhs 
 and Afghans, when the Afghans conquered, they would destroy 
 the tank and temple, killing cows in the tank. The Sikhs would 
 purify it, and then the Afghans destroy it again. During 
 Runjeet Singh's time it was much decorated; many of the decora- 
 tions mosaics, and fine marbles were taken from the beautiful 
 tomb of Jehan-Ghir, and Noor-Mahal, at Lahore — the old 
 villain ! 
 
 I made another rough sketch of it and back, looking at the 
 many shawl manufacturers' shops, then breakfasted, and off. At 
 this station there are some troops, and a few civilians. This after- 
 noon I passed Jelindur — a pleasant little station, with bungalows 
 and church. At dusk was ferried over this river. 
 
 Feb. loth, en route to Umballa. — This morning crossed the 
 Sutlej again, and entered Loodiana. I am retracing the steps 
 which I took coming northward in November ; now the fields 
 are mostly covered with luxuriant half-grown grain and grass. 
 To-day passed the tents of some soldiers ; I was in hopes they 
 
 were those of the 82d (Queen's), Colonel B 's regiment, 
 
 but they had turned off to the hills a day or two since. 
 
 Feb. 16th, Umballa. — Here this afternoon at one. I find the 
 roads much improved since I went up three months ago. The 
 telegraph wire now runs all the distance to Umritzur. From 
 Eawul-Pindee they intend laying the telegraph twenty feet under 
 ground, to prevent the natives from destroying it. The roads 
 from Calcutta to Peshawur are (with two or three exceptions) on 
 the banks of rivers, on a perfect level. 
 
 lying on the road murdered. Of F I can learn nothing, but hope he is 
 
 safe. During the mutinies I lost some twenty or thirty intimate friends and 
 acquaintances. 
 
RAIN, RAIN. 453 
 
 The Ganges valley extends nearly to the extreme North-west, 
 — probably the largest continued valley in the world. The 
 road is nearly all graded ; in a year it will probably be laid with 
 kunka. It is said that the grading is with an eye to the pros- 
 pective railroad now being commenced at Calcutta, and in the 
 meanwhile, waggons and transit coaches will settle it. From 
 here I go to Seharanpoor, where I hope to be early to-morrow 
 morning. 
 
 Feb. 17th, Dak Bungalow, Seharanpoor. — I started yes- 
 terday afternoon for this place. Shortly after dark it com- 
 menced raining. Thinking it would not last long, I continued 
 on ; but after an hour finding it rather increased, and no chance 
 of any asylum, perhaps before this place to-morrow morning, 
 and the roads becoming very slippery I called a halt, and got out 
 of my carpet bags the comeatable Cashmere articles, and put them 
 in the dhooly. Getting my shawls, scarfs, and rifle, etc., out of 
 their corner and in bottom of the dhooly into a better protected 
 place ; I prepared for a soaking of the carpet bags and upset of 
 the dhooly. Luckily, however, there was not much rain, and I 
 only had one drop. The forward men slipping and spilling the 
 dhooly in the soft mud. Presently to my great delight the 
 bearers announced a dak bungalow at three this morning. They 
 inquired if they should stop, I said " Yes, by all means," and I 
 was soon in dry quarters ; the dhooly unpacked, and the kit- 
 magar (charming creatures these Indian servants, always turning 
 in to " roost" with their clothes all on, and thus ready at a 
 moment's notice), bustling about, soon made me comfortable. 
 
 Luckily I found that but a very small portion of my clothes 
 were wet, and those in a glazed leather bag ! while those in the 
 French carpet bag were perfectly dry. At four this morning I 
 shall turn into bed. To-day still raining, so ordered a fire, and 
 shall "make a day of it" here. The same charming kitmagar 
 providing me with tea, " moorghi grill" and chepatties (thin 
 dough cakes), in the place of bread. I should have been very 
 
454: FEOM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 comfortable, but for a liorrid cliimney that would smoke, and 
 nearly convert me into bacon. 
 
 In the afternoon, clearing up, at half-past three I started for 
 this place, which by dint of a strong set of bearers, plenty of 
 urging, quizzing, and promise of backsheesh, I reached by half- 
 past ten this evening, trembling every moment for fear of 
 another rain. 
 
 During the afternoon I passed numerous cactus hedges with 
 yellow leaves, which, looking fresh after the rain, had all the 
 appearance of flowers, and for a mile passed through a most beau- 
 tiful grove of mango trees, many of them quite patriarchal in 
 appearance. I crossed the Jumna an hour before dark, and 
 passed a small village preceded by a large garden. Almost every 
 town in the East of any size, has a large garden or resort of some 
 kind, where we can find water, trees, and flowers. Reaching the 
 bungalow, I found it exceedingly comfortable, had the luxury of 
 a cup of tea, and now to bed. 
 
 Feh. 18ih. — This morning I sent a note with F 's letter 
 
 of introduction to Mr. E , the Magistrate, who sent a note 
 
 and his buggy for me to come and take possession of a room in 
 his house, as he would be most happy to see any friend of 
 F 's. 
 
 We have been talking over plans of routes to Roorkee, near 
 the mouth of the great Ganges canal, and where are many of the 
 workshops, and the most celebrated engineering on the canal, also 
 of a visit to Hurdwar — the most sacred Hindoo place in India, not 
 even excepting Benares ! I 
 
 You can't imagine how happy I feel to think that four hundred 
 miles more of my journey are " trundled off." I expected to have 
 been at Delhi by to-morrow ; but now I shall not reach there for 
 several days; meantime "Butler Sahib" is enjoying his "otium 
 cum dignitate " with the " bubble bubble " to solace his loneli- 
 ness at the Dak bungalow. 
 
 E had an engagement with some young ladies and an 
 
I''..„a.;-!!i: 
 
 
WORKS ON THE GANGES CANAL. 455 
 
 ofificcr friend of his, for a ride this afternoon. He gave me a 
 *' mount," and we had a charming gallop, the ladies young, pretty, 
 agreeable, and quite celebrated for their beautiful riding. Going 
 to the house of the young ladies, we met a Mr. Campbell, a well- 
 known American missionary, whom I had heard spoken of in the 
 
 highest terms. E introduced me to him, and said I was 
 
 a countryman. Mr. C is a most respectable looking old 
 
 gentleman. I inquired about his mission, etc. He said it was 
 very flourishing, and that he had been established here for 
 eighteen years.* 
 
 This evening E took me to a dinner-party at Dr. 
 
 J 's. to which he had got me an invitation. It was given 
 
 for a bride. Dr. J inquired if I knew A. Y. E., of Albany ; 
 
 that they had been class-mates at Edinburgh. This evening I 
 shall start for Eoorkee. This place is not large, but pretty, with 
 a pleasant little society. 
 
 Feb. 19tJi, Eoorkee. — •! started at twelve last night, and reached 
 this place at half-past seven this morning. I found the officer, 
 
 Mr. P , to whom I had a letter, a fine fellow. At breakfast 
 
 we had an amusing diversion — a rat-chase around the room. 
 
 After breakfast a Mr. L , an engineer on the canal, to 
 
 whom I had letters, came in. He arranged to take me up to his 
 house in the morning. 
 
 This afternoon P took me to see the works on the canal. 
 
 In this part there is a bridge about a thousand feet long, sup- 
 ported by arches, and between the piers of the arches, flows a 
 river — a mountain torrent. 
 
 The entire embankment in this part of the canal is about three 
 miles long, and the whole bed is carried by this work on arches 
 for one thousand feet, eighteen feet above the valley or bed of the 
 torrent. The general width of the canal is 150 feet ; but this 
 bridge or viaduct over the Eutmoo river is 280. The length of 
 
 * I understand, during the revolt, the poor old gentleman was murdered by 
 the Sepoys. 
 
456 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 the canal is 370 miles, but with the tributary canals which flow 
 out and into it again, a network of waters on both sides to irrigate 
 the country, is 950 miles. 
 
 The bed is nine or ten feet deep. It has been fourteen years in 
 building, and at a cost of £1,500,000 or $7,500,000, They are 
 making great efforts to finish and open it the 13th of April, when 
 the waters will be let in. Though the natives feel so confident 
 they declare Gunga will not desert his ancient bed and flow 
 into this new one. 
 
 The object being to irrigate the land, the ridges have been 
 selected for the course of the canal from its mouth at Hurdwar, 
 to where it empties into the Ganges again at Cawnpore. Now 
 the Ganges runs into such a valley, that it drains, instead of irri- 
 gating the upland. 
 
 On the twenty miles between this and Hurdwar they have 
 30,000 men at work. When the canal is completed the entire 
 body of the river will flow into it. The descent is fifteen inches 
 per mile, and every four or five miles, a descent of five feet. 
 
 This afternoon a walk around the place, passing the college for 
 half-castes and natives, who are paid from seven to ten rupees per 
 nnonth for attending ! ! ! This place is prettily situated, with the 
 snow mountains full in sight, and an undulating country around. 
 
 Feb. 20lh, PuTTREE. — At six I left my " traps " in charge of a 
 servant to be sent with the dhooly after me, and having bid 
 P good-bye last night, and received a letter of introduc- 
 tion from him to Colonel Cautley, the Chief Engineer, not only 
 
 of this, but of all India, I started with L for his place, 
 
 Denowree, in a buggy. I stopped just before reaching here, to see 
 the works where in the dry season they run a river under a 
 bridge, and a hundred yards further on where they open the gates 
 both sides of the canal and run it over, together with the waters 
 of the canal when they get too high. 
 
 The works are very massive, but not what I had supposed 
 from the report of them. The piers and walls are supported by 
 
IIURDWAR. 457 
 
 square tubes of brick, sunk into the ground fifteen to twenty 
 feet, and sometimes the square tube divided into four parts by 
 interior walls — the whole filled with earth. They are sunk by 
 the earth being excavated by suspended shovels in the inside of 
 the tubes. A curious operation, and borrowed from the natives. 
 
 I breakfasted with L . While wandering about I saw 
 
 a beastie watering an elephant by pouring water into his trunk 
 
 from his pig-skin sack. Then L and I got on his elephant 
 
 and came to this place, where I met Colonel Cautley on the road. 
 We passed over a famous battle-field of the Hindoos and Mus- 
 sulmans, fought when the latter attempted to penetrate to the 
 sacred Hurdwar. The fight lasted three days, and then the Mus- 
 sulmans, though victorious, gave up their design, finding it cost 
 too great a sacrifice of life. 
 
 Near the tent was a fine work which is to carry a famous 
 mountain torrent over the canal. To prevent it being diverted 
 from this course, the country for a mile on either side was covered 
 with rows of embankments ; for, as it rushes down furiously after 
 a rain, and takes singular courses, sometimes one way, sometimes 
 another, it overflows the countrj^, and covers it with a sandy 
 deposit. 
 
 I dined with Colonel C who sent for our tents, as his 
 
 other tent and beds had been sent to Denowree. Colonel C 
 
 has quite a European reputation, although one of the E. I. Com- 
 pany's officers. His successor is a Captain Smith whom he was 
 ver}^ anxious should see me, as he has just returned from the 
 United States, and is full of what he has seen. 
 
 Feb. 21st, Denowree. — I started at daylight this morning with 
 
 my sketch book, on one of Colonel C 's elephants for Hurdwar, 
 
 the greatest of all Hindoo pilgrimages. Here every Hindoo desires 
 to die. I met great numbers of pilgrims on the road. Of those 
 going, many had bundles on their back, containing the ashes 
 of some of their famil}^, to throw in the Ganges at Hurdwar. 
 Those returning with baskets or bhangies (poles six feet long 
 
458 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 balanced on the shoulder, and loads suspended at either end), with 
 packages of small bottles containing Ganges water from this sacred 
 place for their families, or to sell. 
 
 My stupid mahout took me past the bungalow, where the 
 Colonel had sent his servant before daylight on another elephant, 
 with all the arrangements for my breakfast and tiffin, and carried 
 me two miles further on to Hurdwar, before I discovered the mis- 
 take. Thus making a virtue of necessity, I did my sight-seeing, 
 and sketching first. 
 
 The mouth of the canal is a few hundred yards below the city, 
 and as I have said before, " Gunga will be turned from his old 
 bed " into this new one, in spite of himself, and the native decla- 
 rations to the contrary ; and when they see the effects of his 
 irrigation on their soil when the rain falls short, they will doubt- 
 less tliink it an evidence of his pleasure at the change to this 
 magnificent conduit, which " John Company " has made for him. 
 
 The town is small and dirty. It is situated at the base of some 
 low hills, with pretty position and views. The buildings consist 
 principally of the temples near the Ghauts, and a few ordinary 
 houses and bazaars, in which confectionery, lacquered ware, 
 bracelets of betel nut, or stone, and glass bottles forms the stock 
 in trade. There are also a few houses of rich natives, who con- 
 sider it a mark of 2^osition to have a house in Hurdwar. Many of 
 these are brick, some with white freestone bases, and the founda- 
 tions of many laid in the bed of the sacred stream. 
 
 There were many people bathing and filling bottles. The 
 river is narrow, and very shoal at this dry season, and only a few 
 hundreds now, where there are thousands who visit it for devo- 
 tion or profit during the Fair. 
 
 The principal Ghaut, I am told, was built by the East India 
 Compan}' . It is large and commodious, thus saving the horrid 
 waste of human life, occasioned by the sudden rush of the devo- 
 tees through the former old and narrow one, to reach the waters at 
 the propitious moment, which is often at midnight. The hills in 
 the rear of the town furnish a pleasant refuge for tigers, leopards 
 
ARRIVAL AT MEERUT. 459 
 
 and wolves, who follow " the mode" and make their periodical 
 visit for " profit and devotion " too. 
 
 The Fairs held here, are attended by hundreds of thousands 
 of people — traders, devotees, and mere visitors, coming from 
 every quarter. Horse merchants from Bokhara and Cabul, and 
 pilgrims from Calcutta. Every twelfth year is the Great Fair, 
 called the " Coons " — then it is estimated the people amount to 
 near a million. 
 
 I rode in among the people who were bathing, and filling bot- 
 tles, which held from a gill, to one or two quarts. Then to the 
 bungalow where I got my breakfast, at between two and three in 
 the afternoon. It is needless to add, I did justice to the cuisine. 
 I then came on to this place, altogether a distance of twenty; 
 
 six miles, on my dusky charger. Here I found Colonel C 
 
 and L . After dinner I shall start for Meerut and 
 
 Delhi. 
 
 Feb. 227icZ, Meerut. — I started last evening at eight, and had a 
 very disagreeable, drizzling night. I only stopped on the road 
 at Mazufferanugger for breakfast, and then on to this place, which 
 I reached at the same hour that I started from it on my Cashmerian 
 tour, twelve weeks and four days ago ; but with very different 
 feelings from what I now have, since fifteen or sixteen hundred 
 miles of territory have been traversed, I safely back again, and 
 so much nearer home. It is a country fraught with historic 
 interest, ancient and modern; scenes draped and encircled in 
 poetic imagery and halo, where nature has lavished many of her 
 most wondrous charms of beauty and magnificence ; while de- 
 scending to the more practical, I've witnessed the extraordinary 
 energy and good management of this far-extending East India 
 Company, which has, in five short years, subdued and almost 
 civilized the warrior-born race who inhabited this vast district, 
 now dotted by European settlements, and churches with mission- 
 aries spreading the light of the blessed gospel. 
 
 The country has been irrigated and enriched by a network 
 
460 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 of canals, roads, and telegraphs. The people have been tauo-ht 
 the advantages of peace, law and order. 
 
 Thus, finishing my wanderings with the sight of so worthy an 
 achievement — of so grand a legislation — the great Ganges canal, 
 a work that is unsurpassed for skilful engineering and magnitude — 
 a large river diverted from its course, and in one place the whole 
 current carried for a quarter of a mile on arches from six to eighteen 
 feet above the bed of a violent mountain torrent, whose waters 
 are here collected into a regular current, and pass beneath the 
 canal ; in another place, another torrent is conducted over the canal, 
 and in a third place, another passes through the canal ! 
 
 I feel as if it was almost a beautiful dream, that I should have 
 seen and passed through so much in this short time, with all the 
 inconveniences and disadvantages a traveller labors imder in a 
 strange land, which, though on the certain road to civilization and 
 prosperity, is in many parts almost savage still. 
 
 Immediately on my arrival I sent to lay a dak for Delhi, and 
 shall be "en route" again at eleven this evening. My dhooly, 
 which has carried me safely more than 1700 miles, with grateful 
 remembrance of its services, I shall leave to repose on its laurels — 
 unless the bungalow kitmagar should turn it into " filthy lucre." 
 
 Feb. 23c/, Delhi, — The night was dark and stormy, I 
 managed to get a little sleep, by dint of perseverance, cushions, 
 pillows, and coats, notwithstanding the bad springs. This 
 morning I was woke by the " Sa-a-ib, Sa-a-ib," of my driver. 
 Looking out of the window, I found we had reached the Jumna, 
 which had to be crossed, and the bridge toll to be paid. My 
 first sight was the palace walls, which on this side form the city 
 walls. They are some sixty feet high. The appearance of the 
 city is very fine for a native town — clean streets, etc. 
 
 Driving to the dak bungalow, I found my servant and things ; 
 they had been here for several weeks. A note from Hall stated, 
 that instead of going into Rajpootana, as he had proposed for 
 us to do, he on government business and I for pleasure, had 
 
THE DURBAR HALL AT DELHI. 461 
 
 been to Delhi, got engaged, and was to be married in a few 
 weeks. 
 
 Then after breakfast I went to present my letters of introduc- 
 tion. I found that all but one person had been ordered off. 
 
 In India, officers and their regiments are changed every three 
 years, on account of the climate ; for they say, that even a bad 
 change is better than none ; so that taking letters to a station, 
 with an interlude of three, four, or five months after they are 
 written, is a very uncertain chance of pleasure. 
 
 The only person I found here was Mr. Wilby, the editor of 
 the Delhi Gazette — a very nice fellow — a Nova Scotian by birth, 
 and Harvard man by education. He apologized for not inviting 
 me to his house, as his wife was sick, but offered to do all he 
 could in the way of showing me sights, and commenced by 
 sending a note for an order to see the fort. 
 
 It is a very large place, and the citadel of the city. There are 
 arrangements in it for troops — besides the palace and gardens. I 
 first visited the celebrated Durbar Hall, where stood the famous 
 " Peacock Throne," removed by Nadir Shah. The place is a 
 large many-pillared portico, and in the back part, against the 
 wall, a raised platform, about six feet high, with marble canopy. 
 The entire structure is of white marble. The natives have white- 
 washed the portico, which was of red sandstone, to make it cor- 
 respond with the throne ! Under this canopy stood the Peacock 
 Throne. In front, but only about a foot from the ground, there 
 is a marble slab, where the Grand Vizier sat, and received peti- 
 tions, which were presented on bended knee. 
 
 The Vizier presented those which he deemed worthy to the 
 Emperor, who sat on the throne. Bernier, the celebrated French 
 traveller of the sixteenth century, made his way across India 
 from Surat where he lauded, and presented his petition in this 
 way, and finally was attached to the Emperor Arungzebe's suite, 
 and gives the earliest account we have of life in these countries ; 
 he also speaks of the journeys of the Emperor into Cash- 
 mere. 
 
462 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 Everything about the throne was magnificent, and much still 
 remains. The canopy, columns, and wall back of the throne, 
 are in beautiful Florentine style of mosaic. The crowning part 
 of the mosaic is a representation of a man playing on a violin, 
 which has much puzzled antiquarians. 
 
 In the Palace Hall, as it is termed, is a pavilion, on the walls 
 of which I saw the grandiloquent writing ; " And oh ! if there be 
 an Elysium on earth, it is here, it is here." Their perfection of 
 happiness must have been easily attained, I think. The build- 
 ing never could have been very handsome, even " in its newest 
 gloss ;" and now the view of the river is obstructed by a modern 
 wall. Formerly with that in sight, it may have been pretty, 
 though not excessively so ; but as native happiness deals not in 
 the beautiful, but sensual tastes and appetites, their Elysium is 
 where these pleasures are to be found. 
 
 The building is square, with a row of six columns on each 
 side, connected by scolloped arches, and another inner row of 
 four columns. In the centre there is a handsome tessellated floor. 
 The lower part of the columns is gaudy gilding. The ceiling, 
 which it is said was formerly covered with plates of silver, is 
 now of wood — gilt. Thence into the adjoining garden, from 
 here to the Jumma Musjid, or Great Mosque, which is on a 
 lofty terrace, ascended by a fine flight of steps from the prin- 
 cipal street. 
 
 It presents the finest appearance of any mosque I have seen in 
 India. On one side of the court is the large building, on the 
 opposite the lofty gateway, and this mosque, after the palace, is 
 the grand feature of Delhi. 
 
 There is a fine view from this point of one of the city gates, 
 which adds so much to the grandeur of the palace walls. Then 
 
 to W 's ofiice, and his house to dinner. He says Lord 
 
 Dalhovisie has proposed, and it has been adopted, to repair all the 
 buildings and monuments in and about Delhi, and after the 
 present Emperor's death to remove the imperial family from the 
 palace to some other place, in fact adopting Sir Charles Napier's 
 
SIR CHARLES NAPIER. 463 
 
 proposed plan of making Delhi the head-quarters of the army, 
 and renovating the ancient capital. 
 
 Sir Charles Napier drew a rough sketch of his plan, and sent 
 it to the Governor-General, who sent it home to the Court of 
 Directors, who sent a formal note to Sir Charles, requesting 
 the Commander-in-Chief to put his views in a more intelligible 
 form. So in his quizzical way, he commenced with broad 
 margin, and " Article first: — The King and gunpowder shall be 
 removed from Delhi. Eeasons : If the King is not removed he 
 will blow up the countr}'. If the gunpowder is not removed it 
 will blow up the King," etc., etc. Though the Company and 
 Sir Charles Napier could not agree, for with his enemies at work 
 at Calcutta (and every great man will have them), misrepre- 
 senting him, and poisoning the ears of Government in every way 
 as regarded him, and he was wearing himself out in the 
 Government service, adding new laurels to her crown of empire, 
 and benefiting her in every way, while Lord Dalhousie with his 
 brief power was lording it over him in the pettishness of his 
 feelings, Sir Charles had a hard time in India. 
 
 It is true that he made a large fortune by the conquest of 
 
 Scinde ; but did he receive too much compensation for his 
 
 brilliant services ? and did not Lord Gough receive vastly more 
 for what he did not do! — conquer the Punjaub, which was only 
 accomplished through the obstinacy and valor of the British 
 army, who would not run away wh6n Lord Gough allowed them 
 to be defeated, and by the ignorance of the Sikhs who did not 
 know when they had gained a victory, as long as their enemies 
 did not run away ? 
 
 Wherever I have been in India among the soldiers who saw 
 and knew Sir Charles Napier, they really loved him, and as they 
 expressed it, " we all swear by old Charley." He was the most 
 brilliant soldier they have ever had in India, with the sole 
 exception of the " Duke," and with every quality to render him 
 popular. 
 
 Delhi, surrounded for miles with old tombs, has been for a 
 
464 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 thousand years moving northward, and is now about twenty-five 
 miles further up than when it was first built. Every succeeding 
 city took a new site. 
 
 This is the eleventh, and was built by Shah Jehan, and it was 
 sometimes called Jehanabad. The city is well built for an Ori- 
 ental one, and yet I was disappointed in not seeing more magni- 
 ficence after all, having heard so much of Delhi — for " 'tis dis- 
 tance lends enchantment to the view." 
 
 To-day I passed a small mosque in the city — historically very 
 interesting. When Nadir Shah conquered Delhi, he had the 
 generosity (for he was not the savage that he is generally repre- 
 sented to have been) not to turn the Emperor of Delhi out of his 
 palace, but took up his quarters in this mosque, and had issued 
 strict orders to punish any soldier who maltreated a native. 
 Finally, one day, his Yizier being shot while sitting by his side, 
 he drew the sword, and that day and night 180,000 persons 
 perished in Delhi. The slaughter was only stopped by the 
 Emperor coming from the palace, and on his knees entreating 
 Nadir Shah for a suspension of the massacre. 
 
 Feb. 24. — At eight this morning I drove out to see the Mono- 
 lith, placed on a lofty foundation of arches, above which it shows 
 about thirty feet, and is one of the famous columns of the edict 
 of Esota, the same as that translated by Prinsept. Then to the 
 citadel, mosque, and tomb of Humayoonon (son of Baber). The 
 mosque is very fine. The tomb is a mile distant ; parts of it are 
 beautiful, some of the monuments or tombs within the building 
 are very chaste. The building itself is on a high terrace, and of 
 great size, truly an imperial tomb. 
 
 Keturning home I held bazaar for three hours in my room, and 
 at one time I counted eighteen heads of venders soliciting the sale 
 of their wares. The articles of trade were views on ivory or 
 paper, gold and silver trinkets, boxes of sandal wood, shawls and 
 scarfs of Delhi and Moultan work. 
 
 This afternoon W called and drove me out. We 
 
THE TOWER OF KOOTOB-UD-DEEN. 465 
 
 visited a very curious old temple, and some tombs with finely 
 wrought stone and marble screens, and an old Mussulman Col- 
 lege — then to the bungalow. He dined with me, and from three 
 until eleven was a steady flow of conversation without an 
 instant's cessation. 
 
 Feb. 25. — Soon after sunrise to-day I started again for the 
 Monolith, with my sketch book, and made a sketch of the city. 
 
 Then home, packing up, and settling accounts. W came 
 
 in for a short time and brought some books f»r my perusal. To- 
 morrow, the only day he can spare from his office, we are to visit 
 the famous Kootub and Toogklahabad, the site of the original 
 Delhi. This evening I have been studying Forster's Travels in 
 India, Kashmir, and Persia in 1785, and Tod's Eajistan — both 
 most interesting works. The latter country contained the baro- 
 nial chivalry of India. 
 
 Feb. 26. — Before daylight "W called for me, and off we 
 
 drove, stopping at a very singular old astronomical building of 
 brick and mortar on a colossal scale, the sun-dial gnomon 
 being thirty-five feet ! Among other things were sectional 
 arrangements like an orange half peeled, also two semicircular 
 buildings with a multitude of windows ; their singular construc- 
 tion puzzled W as well as me. 
 
 Then to the tomb of the ancestors of the King of Oude, 
 who was one of the dependants of the Mogul Empire, and 
 usurped the throne about a century ago. Now on to the Kootub, 
 eleven miles from the city. This is a famous tower commenced 
 by Kootob-ud-Deen (originally a Turkish slave), a Mahommedan 
 king. It was finished by his successor, and son-in-law, Altumsh 
 (a Tartar slave), about seven or eight centuries since : he also 
 commenced the mosque near here. 
 
 The tower is five stories high, the three lower of massive 
 brown stone, the other two of white marble. The entire building 
 is 265 feet high. Each story is most elaborately ornamented, 
 although the interior of the walls is evidently of rough stone laid' 
 
 80 
 
466 FKOM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 in mortar, witli this exterior shell of brown stone. There is a 
 winding staircase leading through the centre to the top of the 
 building, but no view of any consequence, the country being so 
 flat. Tliere are some curious old remains around the temple, 
 tombs, arches, etc., evidently of Hindoo construction. Kootub- 
 ud-Deen's tomb is said to be within the building. We met here 
 
 a Mr. Beresford and family, acquaintances of Mr. W 's ■ 
 
 they were occupying one of the tombs, and spending some days 
 here. He invited us to breakfast with him. After breakfast he 
 drove us to Tooghlakabad or as far as the mud would allow the 
 carriage to go, and we walked the rest, about five miles, going 
 and coming from the carriage to the ancient city. 
 
 The ruins are very massive and extensive, evidently of a very 
 
 early date. Mr. B is amusing himself photographing, 
 
 and has promised to send me some on to Agra.* W and 
 
 I then returned to the cit}^, he dined with me, and at six I shall 
 start for Agra. 
 
 Feb. 21ili^ Agra. — I started last night at seven. I had horrid 
 bad horses, besides apprehensions of robbers, as every carriage 
 for several da5^s past has been stopped. I rather astonished the 
 dak proprietor yesterday afternoon when I laid my dak. He 
 was expatiating on the prowess of the robbers. I said I was 
 ready for them. " But suppose they are fifteen as they were a 
 night or two ago." "Shoot the first five, and trust to luck and 
 the 'bowie' to fix the others." He looked blank and was 
 speechless at such an Ameri-can " modus operandi." However, 
 we went on luckily in safety : somefriend of the robbers probably 
 apprised them of my being well armed, and natives do not like 
 to be unnecessarily shot. 
 
 * Mr. and Mrs. B and their family, consisting of five children, were 
 
 all most brutally murdered by the Sepoys during the late revolt. E. B. 
 
 M , Jr., a friend of mine, while lately travelling in India, was at a 
 
 Christmas-eve party at his house in 1855, and now informs me he is the sole 
 survivor of all the guests he met there. 
 

 '^>, ■^'il#^^>\^^;"l:,„„il..:iii'r 
 
 ,. ^'''iil^ 
 
 ji -l; .. '1 
 
TOMB OF ITMUD-UD-DOWLAH. 467 
 
 I reached here at five this afternoon, and lost my breakfast 
 for nothing, as I had hoped, by not stopping, to get in before the 
 Post Oflice closed. As I crossed the river I saw the Taj and the 
 lofty walls of the fortress, which presents an appearance of 
 great strength ; but a few shells would speedily reduce it I 
 fancy. 
 
 Feh. 28ih. — This morning I had the buggy at the door by day- 
 light for a visit to the Taj — not on the principle of the best first, 
 but of seeing it as often as possible. It certainly is beautiful, 
 but the dome is to my eye rather heavy for the edifice, a common 
 fault with Mahommedan buildings, 
 
 I met Major and Mrs, B , who were staying with Colo- 
 nel Sleeman when I was at Lucknow. They apologised for not 
 being able to ask me to their house, as they were expecting some 
 friends to arrive to-day. Then to the Post Office, where I found 
 a grand mail for me. After breakfastv I went off again to call 
 upon the Governor, a steamer acquaintance, and present some 
 letters. Most unfortunately the Governor had gone off to Mee- 
 rut, so I shall not see him or stay at his house as I was to have 
 done. 
 
 I then called on Mr. Mawson, of the Delhi Gazette, who invited 
 me to stay with him, and I accepted. Then to see my old steamer 
 acquaintance, Mr, Pfander, a very celebrated German missionary. 
 He made an appointment to take me out to Secundra on Thurs- 
 day. I continued on calling upon Mr. Fullerton, an American 
 missionary, who was very anxious I should stay with him. He 
 introduced me to his colleague Mr. "Williams, who drove me 
 across the river to see a very handsome and singular tomb built 
 bj- Ackbar's Vizier, Itmud-ud-Dowlah, It was covered inside 
 and out with a coarse mosaic. 
 
 These tombs were built by the people themselves, and in gar- 
 dens, which are now a summer resort. In another place is a 
 tomb with a corresponding building on the four sides; it is 
 termed the Jawab, or Answer, In this building were male and 
 
468 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 female tombs ; the former a small raised place : in tlie latter, on 
 top of the tomb, a tablet like a slate, as enigmatical of a woman's 
 character — to be formed by her husband. 
 
 Next to the Eam-bagh, or Garden of Eam, a short distance off, 
 and a very extensive affair. From this place I saw numerous 
 remains of old houses belonging to the wealthier people on the 
 opposite side of the river. 
 
 In this garden are peach and apple trees, not only dwarfed in 
 size, but with fruit of corresponding proportions ; also plantains 
 and the rumak — the fruit of the latter tart, but pleasant. The 
 tree presents almost as singular an appearance as the fruit. 
 
 Returning to Mr. F 's we passed through the Delhi gate 
 
 — a magnificent custom of the Emperors naming the gates from 
 the greatest city on that side — a prospective plan of extensive 
 empire, as Napoleon I. did when he had more than prospective 
 empire. ^^11 Europe at his feet, and his eagles fluttering over 
 nearly every people on that continent. The avenue of trees on 
 either side of the road is spoken of in Lalla Rookh. Last even- 
 ing two sons of the Duke of Buccleugh, whom I met in Egypt 
 in '51, passed on to the north. 
 
 March 1st. — At half-past seven this morning I started for the 
 
 fort to meet Mr. F , who had kindly offered to take me 
 
 through this Palace Citadel. Shortly after entering the gate, I 
 saw what seemed to be a small brick shed. I was informed it 
 was the treasury, where lacs and lacs of rupees were stored (a 
 
 lac is 100,000, or $50,000). Mr. F said that one day he 
 
 saw fifty cartloads of rupees leave the place ! 
 
 Then to the Muttee Musjid, or "Pearl Mosque," by some con- 
 sidered the most beautiful building in Agra. It is of white 
 marble, massive and chaste, a building that at once impresses 
 you with its beauty. There is one central, and two side halls, 
 the latter for the females. The middle one is subdivided into five 
 parts, a lofty central, arched nave, and four lateral arched aisles. 
 The floor is paved with large slabs of white marble, each with a 
 
ackbar's durbar throne. 469 
 
 slight inlaid border terminating in a point towards Mecca. Eaeh 
 stone is for one worshipper. 
 
 The front is supported by massive columns connected with 
 each other by equally massive marble festoons. The principal 
 dome, and several smaller ones, complete the exterior decorations. 
 
 I then passed through the fine gardens of the Zenana, the 
 beds of which were divided into various shapes by stone borders. 
 Here are fountains and a lovely little pavilion, all of white mar- 
 ble, even to the pavement and walls ; the latter beautifally deco- 
 rated with flowers in mosaic. 
 
 But it is vain to attempt to describe such a labyrinth of courts 
 and pavilions, all as beautiful as it is possible to conceive — a 
 maze of architecture, sculpture, and mosaic. I've seen nothing 
 as delicately beautiful since leaving the Alhambra — and that 
 was wood, — this is marble. All here has that necessary point 
 to real beauty — a water view. 
 
 The Jumna flows beneath the walls of this palace fortress, and 
 though now much reduced in width from the lateness of the 
 season, yet, during the wet months is several miles in width at 
 this part ; there is a view of the Taj from every part of this 
 palace. I think from here, one has the best view. The weight 
 of the dome does not appear as oppressive and crushing to the 
 building, as it has from every other point I have seen it. 
 
 We then visited Ackbar's Durbar throne — a massive slab of 
 black marble, ten feet by six, six inches thick, and supported 
 by legs a foot high — all one stone. 
 
 When the Eajah of Bhurtpore captured Agra many years 
 ago, he sat upon it — an indignity it resented by shedding blood, 
 the spots of which are still shown, besides cracking it. Lord 
 Ellenborough did the same, and made matters worse. Opposite, 
 is a small marble seat for the Vizier, and in another part a 
 kutcherry to settle hareem difficulties. 
 
 Beneath, is a long vaulted passage, said to lead to the Taj, but 
 from it, branches off a passage leading to a very different place, 
 which some British officers, in exploring its dark passages a few 
 
470 FROM WALL STEEET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 years ago, discovered. Part of the wall had been closed up. On 
 opening it, they discovered a gibbet, and beneath a deep pit, from 
 which they drew up with grappling irons, a number of bones, 
 supposed to be where the Emperors settled the more serious 
 difficulties of the hareem. 
 
 We continued on beneath, and entered an exquisite marble 
 bath of great size with niches in the walls for rows of lights. 
 From one fell a cascade. The walls are inlaid with small bits 
 of convex looking glass, and when brilliantly illuminated must 
 have presented a fine effect. 
 
 Wandering on, we came into an old building, said to have 
 been for the ladies of the hareem to amuse themselves playing 
 "hide and go seek" — certainly well adapted to the purpose, with 
 its labyrinthine passages. Then into a beautiful marble pavi- 
 lion, the arches supported on light double columns ; the whole a 
 mass of the richest mosaic. Afterwards we mounted to the top 
 of the building, where a fine coiq-) cfoeil of all is presented, with 
 the addition of the glittering gilt domes which we could not see 
 below. 
 
 The buildings are all kept in admirable order, and as neat and 
 fresh looking as if at present occupied — not a vestige of age or 
 dilapidation. Lord Lake's cannon balls made a few holes in 
 the marble screens and walls when he was dislodging the Mah 
 rattas. 
 
 The arsenal I am obliged to leave until another day, as this is 
 one of the native holidays. We went out over the drawbridge, 
 a rather formidable place to pass when occupied by an enemy. 
 This fortress as well as the city were built by Ackbar, and some- 
 times called Ackbarabad, or City of Ackbar. But he only built 
 of red sand-stone. I am informed it was Shah Jehan who intro- 
 duced the marble. 
 
 Ackbar was the most illustrious of that wonderful succession 
 of distinguished emperors, probably one of the most extraor- 
 dinary that ever occupied any throne. These emperors all claim 
 their descent from Tamerlane, though the claim is doubted ! ! 
 
"l WA-ANT GO HOME 'tIL MA-AE-NIN." 4?1 
 
 Thence to the Jumma Musjid, now in a very dilapidated con- 
 dition, having suffered much when Agra was in possession of the 
 Mahrattas. Lord Lake knowing the untenableness of the place, 
 offered them terms if they would surrender. They declined, and 
 in a few minutes he had the walls and gates battered down, and 
 a thousand natives bayoneted. 
 
 This mosque has the usual grand central arched nave, and two 
 side aisles : the centre arch is noble, and this mosque must have 
 ranked among the finest of the many beautiful mosques in 
 India. 
 
 "We continued on, passing through the principal street. It is 
 narrow, but well built, essentially Oriental, and I think presents 
 a finer appearance than even Delhi. Then to the bungalow, 
 where I found a note from Mawson, requesting me to move in 
 as soon as I can — so breakfasted and packed up as well as I could, 
 with applicants at the door to answer every moment; people 
 with boxes, clothing, and in fact a little of everything : winding- 
 up with a musician who pr-cssnted a book fall of certificates 
 declaring him to be ^ perfect Mario. So thinking it might be an 
 amusing variety, I told him to go into an adjoining room and 
 pipe away, which he accordingly did, and played very nicely 
 after the Indian fashion on the harp, assisted by a violin and 
 drurn^ occasionally bursting forth with a song. Once he over- 
 came my gravity by ^'•I lua-ani go home Hil ma-ar-nin\ I iva-ant go 
 home Hil ma-ar-nin\''^ A correctness of pronunciation like that 
 which some of our fair vocalists indulge in — singing Italian. 
 
 Then a long "pow wow" with some dak chowdries, and 
 moved to Mawson's. This afternoon we drove to the band ; saw 
 numerous specimens of amalgamation, almost jet black half castes 
 with fair European wives. This evening I received the photo- 
 graphs from Mr. Beresford at Delhi. 
 
 March 2d. — This morning I bought a dhooly, and laid a dak 
 to Futtepore Sekree for to-night, and then to Mr. Pfander's to 
 breakfast, and with him to Secundra, xlckbar's tomb, a distance 
 
472 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 of about seven miles. On the way, I saw one of Ackbar's old 
 mile-stones, looking like a funeral monument. 
 
 The road on both sides is lined with ruins. The entrance to 
 the tomb, is a lofty building with an immense dome, and arched- 
 way. It is imposing, and a mass of coarse mosaic, but the effect 
 is fine. 
 
 The tomb is very large, and five stories high, each story 
 receding on every side, forming a succession of noble porticoes 
 and terraces. The upper story is of white marble with screens 
 of lattice-work of the same material. The other parts of the 
 building are of red sand-stone. Around the inside of the Sara- 
 cenic arches, in the porticoes, are written praises of Ackbar. In 
 the centre of this quadrangle, is the cenotaph of Ackbar, a solid 
 block of white marble, so beautifully sculptured as almost to 
 appear like a lace-pall thrown over it. On this are written the 
 ninety-nine attributes of God. 
 
 In the first story is the real tomb of Ackbar. In a domed 
 chamber, on the side, is the tomb of another of his family. These 
 domed chambers extend around the building, his intention being 
 that this structure should be a grand mausoleum for his family ; 
 but they had other views on the subject. The building is nearly 
 four hundred feet square. 
 
 Then on to Mr. Henler's, another of the German missionaries, 
 who was with Mr. Pfander when he was driven out of Persia 
 through the influence of the Eussian Government. He looks 
 like a very intelligent person. In addition to his other labors, he 
 is correcting a translation of the Bible in Hindostanee. He and 
 
 Mr. P are both supported by the Church Missionary 
 
 Society of England, which pays very liberally — 300 rupees or 
 $150 a month — while the Americans only receive about 150 
 rupees or $75 per month, with which it is very hard work to 
 make the two ends of the year meet, with the necessary esta- 
 blishment which the castes impose upon Europeans and Ameri- 
 cans. 
 
 Messrs. P and H took me to their school for boys 
 
THE MISSIONARY PRESS. 473 
 
 and girls. Some of the latter were very bright looking. All were 
 
 writing in Persian on slates. Mr. P says they can dis- 
 
 tin2;uish a difference in bri Witness between the children of 
 Christian, and other natives! Then to their printing-press, the 
 largest in India ! It was started to furnish work for the orphans 
 they took charge of after the great famine of 1838. Mr. Thomas- 
 son said he would give them the printing of the Northwest Pro- 
 vinces if they would arrange to do it all ; so they have appro- 
 priated all the earnings of the press for the last ten years in 
 enlarging and paying off their indebtedness, and are now nearly 
 out of debt. 
 
 They employ 500 workmen. They pay the superintendent 
 $3,200 per annum, and have several type-founders from Leip- 
 sic. Then to the Christian village formed by these orphans, 
 many of whom are married and have families. When they can 
 earn enough to support a family, they are allowed to marry, and 
 are given a house. There are now several streets of these houses, 
 the entire population of which is over 400. The printing-press 
 is in the tomb of Ackbar's Portuguese Queen. 
 
 From the top is a fine view of Ackbar's tomb. The portals 
 and marble minar of which are fluted, and the only ones of the 
 kind I've seen in India. Home, and packing up, and shall start 
 after tea for Futtepore Sekree. 
 
 March 2>d, Bhurtpore. — Last evening I was off at ten, with 
 a double set of bearers (thirteen men), who are to accompany me 
 the entire tour, which will last several days. They started with 
 a song and invocation to Ram. 
 
 We reached Futtepore Sekree at six this morning. This was 
 a favorite country residence of Ackbar — a kind of Windsor 
 Castle — a fortified palace and a wall of seven miles in length 
 extending around the low grounds of the village. The jjlace is 
 about twenty-two miles from Agra. While I was eating break- 
 fast, the guide made his appearance. Sheik Bashaut Ali, a jolly- 
 looking, white-bearded antediluvian, who is alwa3^s ready with 
 
474 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 a story or song for tlie traveller. His chief pleasure is in relating 
 tlie various legends of the place, and showing his numerous cer- 
 tificates from visitors, with a final hope that when he dies he may 
 be buried near his sainted Sheik Saleem Shisty. 
 
 Starting under his auspices I visited first, a small building in 
 the centre of the Palace court or quadrangle, appropriated to 
 Ackbar's Christian Queen, the Eomy Begum. The exterior was 
 once painted in fresco. One side represents some Hindoo gods; 
 the rest of the building is approjDriated to a representation of the 
 exploits of the Hero Eustan, with the exception of one panel, 
 which has rather a vague picture of three figures with wings, like 
 an Annunciation ; but, like the others, this is nearly obliterated. 
 If the inside ever had similar decorations, they are concealed by 
 that unscrupulous renovator — whitewash — which alike delights 
 Christian and infidel. 
 
 Near here is another singular building called the Panch Mahal, 
 rising five stories, with terraces. Of its use there are various 
 conjectures; by some it is supposed to have been a servants' 
 building. The stories are low, and the first so full of curiously 
 sculptured old columns, it strongly reminded me of the singular 
 cathedral at Cordova, formerly a grand mosque. Opposite this 
 is a small domed veranda or portico, with Hindoo architecture. 
 
 While my imagination was at work, thinking why it could 
 have been put there, my guide informed me Ackbar had a famous 
 Gooru (Hindoo holy man), probably from policy, as his religion 
 was worn so lightly it had slipped off altogether, and several 
 times he sent to Goa for priests. 
 
 Adjoining the same court is a two-story building like a small 
 chapel, very richly and elaborately sculptured. Around the 
 interior of the second story is a gallery, and from the centre of 
 the building a massive column rose with a heavy capital, orna- 
 mented with stalactites, as were the corners of the room. From 
 this column were four stone galleries, or passages connecting with 
 the corners. 
 
 Here Ackbar is represented to have met his wise men to con- 
 
THE TOMB OF SHEIK SALEEM-SHISTY. 475 
 
 suit on politics, religion, and science. Near bj is another beau- 
 tifully sculptured building. 
 
 On the opposite side of the court is a large Pachesa-board laid 
 in the pavement, and forming a cross, with an elevated place in 
 the centre. The game must have been like that of school-boys 
 with us — of " Fox and Geese." 
 
 In an adjoining court Ackbar's Kutcherry, or Hall of Justice, 
 called Diwar-e-am. Here the people greeted him with the excla- 
 mation of " God is great :" and he replied " May His glory shine 
 for ever." 
 
 Near this stood the Mint, a large, low building, forming a 
 hollow square, around which are two low arched halls, divided 
 by massive arches, which support the roof and low domes which 
 form the ceiling. Then back to the Palace, and through a laby- 
 rinthine building for the ladies to play " Hide and Seek." 
 
 In the stable-yard each horse had a stone-partition stall, and 
 manger of the same material. Near here is the Elephant Gate, 
 so I termed from two colossal elephants on the exterior, made 
 of stone. 
 
 This entrance is flanked by two octagonal towers. Beyond, 
 and below is a singular-looking minar, or tower, the upper part 
 studded with spikes, and called the Elephant Minar — ^perhaps 
 over the grave of a favorite elephant. 
 
 Then to the Durga, or tomb of Sheik Saleem-Shisty, who was 
 a man of great sanctity, and favorite priest of Acbar. The tra- 
 dition is, that he was discovered on this hill about three hundred 
 and fifty years ago, by a wood or stone-cutter, who in vain j^er- 
 suaded him to leave it. One day he saw some tigers in his cave, 
 with whom he appeared to be on terms of friendship. This 
 established his sanctity as a Fakeer. As his reputation increased, 
 so did his riches ; and at length he built this tomb and mosque, 
 at an expense of 37 lacs, or $1,750,000. It consists of a most 
 imposing gateway, 120 feet high, with a portal arch of 80 feet. 
 The entire front of red sandstone, studded with coarse mosaic. 
 The effect is very fine. 
 
4:76 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 Around the interior is a pillared corridor, thirty feet higli. On 
 one side is a beautiful mosque, like the Hall of Eeception at the 
 Alhambra, only stone and marble here supply the place of wood, 
 stucco, and azulajos. 
 
 In the centre of one side of the court opposite the gateway, 
 is a beautiful white marble temple — tomb of the Sheik Saleem- 
 Shisty. The tomb is like a high-post bedstead in appearance, 
 with post and canopy of mother-of-pearl — the walls forming screen 
 work in marble. 
 
 The floors are of beautiful tessellated marbles. In the rear is 
 a perfect burying-ground of a mausoleum. The court of this 
 mosque and tomb is 408 by 430 feet. Then to my temporary 
 bungalow in one of the palace buildings, and off to this place, a 
 hot ride in my dhooly. The distance is fourteen miles. 
 
 I arrived here at half-past four, but too late to get an elephant 
 from the Eajah, who always provides travellers with them — a 
 part of the inconvenience of my having missed the Governor, 
 who would have facilitated me in all my movements. 
 
 This is an independent State and at times has given the East 
 India Company much trouble, Not having the elephant, I tried 
 pedestrianism, and started with my guide and sketch-book. Soon 
 after leaving the bungalow, I crossed the outer wall, which is of 
 mud, and then on for two-thirds of a mile to a deep wide moat 
 and drawbridge — rather a hard place to storm — the moat being 
 200 feet wide and full of water, with a wall on the opposite side, 
 and lofty walls to the citadel. 
 
 Inside I ascended a temple overhanging the wall, from whence 
 there is a good view. On and passed the Eajah's kutcherry, and 
 two palaces, one very large, to a high hill, which I climbed. 
 Here the Mahrattas had their heavy guns in the siege under 
 Lord Lake, and the later one in '25 or '26 under Lord Comber- 
 mere. 
 
 Within the citadel wall, is another high mud wall, now fast 
 crumbling. The city appears large, populous, and, for a native 
 town, well built. On going out of the gate of the city, I passed 
 
BURIAL-PLACE OF THE JAUT CHIEFS. 477 
 
 one of the princes returning in a carriage witli a large escort. 
 At eleven this evening I shall start for Govcrclund. 
 
 March 4:th, Muttea. — This morning shortly after light, I 
 reached Goverdund (twenty miles), also within the Eajah of Bhurt- 
 pore's country. There not being a bungalow, I had my dhooly 
 deposited in the verandah of one of the fine tombs, and made 
 my breakfast on cold tea, and a dry chepatty (dough cake), 
 which I fortunately asked the kitmagar to give me last night. 
 
 With a guide, I visited the tomb of Sooridg-MuU, one of 
 the Bhurtpore Eajahs. The buildings are fine, and consist of a 
 temple and verandah on a terrace, with a noble tank about 400 
 feet square, and a lofty flight of steps leading from the water to 
 the terrace. On either side of each flight is a high side wall, 
 terminating with an octagonal tower. This tomb is a mile out 
 of the town. 
 
 The tomb I am in, has the finest building, though the tank is 
 smaller, but I counted thirty-two steps in the flight from the ter- 
 race to the tank. 
 
 The building is of two stories ; the lower is a terrace, and within 
 a very holy temple, I suppose, for I could not go in. The upper 
 Ls the tomb, the exterior walls of which are covered with fine 
 sculpture. The interior is of most peculiar fresco, commemo- 
 rating events — one is the capture of Bhurtpore. On the four 
 sides and corners were small erections which I hardly know 
 what to call. 
 
 This is the burial-place of the Jaut chiefs, and contains many 
 tombs, though I only give the two best. This last one is of Bul- 
 mut Singh. 
 
 At mid-day, on to this place, a distance of fourteen miles. As I 
 was leaving Goverdund, I saw a poor wretch measuring his 
 length to this place, for penance. I have described the process 
 before. This is a very holy place. There not being a dak bun- 
 galow, as I understood there was, I was obliged to have my 
 dhooly placed in a native caravansary. I then got a guide and 
 
478 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 walked out, while I sent a man to look me up some chepatties, 
 or bread, and a candle, for my larder was precious low — only a 
 stale cbepatty and no bungalow, with a journey of forty-eigbt 
 miles before me for to-morrow. 
 
 I crossed tbe bridge over this part of the Jumna, and walked 
 upon a small island. The Ghauts are like those of most Hindoo 
 cities. This seems a large and well-built town, with houses of 
 four and five stories. 
 
 I stopped and sketched some buildings in my note-book as a 
 reminiscence, and then returned to the dhooly, where, with great 
 good luck I found my man had brought me two fresh loaves, 
 and a sperm candle, instead of " a dip " as I expected. So drop- 
 ping the curtains of the dhooly, I prepared for a famous repast. 
 For want of a candlestick, I took off one of my shoes, and 
 tearing out four or five leaves from an old review, I made a hole 
 in them, and laying them across the shoe, made a socket. 
 
 Unfortunately for my dinner, the heat has made my last bot- 
 tle of beer sour, the cold tea gone, and brandy with tepid water 
 not very palatable. So I did not waste much time over my dinner. 
 
 And now, with my portfolio in my lap, I am finishing my 
 letter, which will only just reach Agra in time for the mail. 
 I am surrounded by a melodious set of people, who have not 
 ceased singing for the last three hours. 
 
 March bill, Agra. — After a very comfortable night in my 
 peculiar quarters, I started at half-past three for Bunderabund, 
 eight miles, which I reached at six. Here, on waking up, I found 
 I was deposited under a beautiful stone verandah ; so dressed, 
 and gave the men money to buy me a chatty to heat water in, 
 bring some wood, and get me fire, milk, and sugar, while I 
 started off to see the Ghauts — the only things worth seeing in 
 these places. 
 
 The bed of the river was nearly dry — only a narrow stream 
 left. Here were numerous pilgrims bathing, sipping water, and 
 saying their prayers; others exclaiming, "Kam! Eam!" while 
 
-if '^>.|W;j||||fi|!i'# ' ^.te^l'.'^"''' 
 
i 
 
BHURTPORE, 479 
 
 farther on a number of dhobies were engaged in the more useful 
 work of washing. 
 
 Making a small sketch of one of the temples (for there is a 
 great resemblance in all Hindoo architecture), I returned to my 
 dhoolj much pleased with what I had seen. 
 
 In this place there are many fine buildings along the Ghauts, 
 and interspersed as thej are with trees, they present quite a 
 picturesque appearance. This is the Benares of this part of 
 India, and the seat of Krishna, and also the famous mytho- 
 logical account of her, and some forty thousand milkmaids. Ee- 
 turning to the dhooly, I found a chatty of water boiling, some 
 milk, and a quantity of crystallized sugar wrapped in the corner 
 of the mantle of one of my Coolies, You may smile, but would 
 not be more particular, if you had had all this travelling and 
 jolting, besides fasting for thirty-six hours, with no better pros- 
 pect than a pot of tea made by pouring tea, milk, and sugar, all 
 into this same chatty, and a loaf of stale, dry bread for twenty- 
 four hours more, besides forty-eight miles of jolting ! 
 
 I had no thoughts of making this tour when I left Agra, 
 not supposing I had time, or the men could carry me so far ; 
 for by the time I return it will be 112 miles in sixty-four 
 hours. 
 
 There are any number of monkeys about this building, and I 
 expect every moment one will drop in upon me, or stop and 
 steal something. 
 
 I reached here at a little past midnight, after my mostly 
 impromptu journey, tired, hungry, and dusty. Of the places I 
 visited, Bhurtpore was one of the strong fortresses in this part 
 of the country, which formed the nucleus around which the dis- 
 contented could rebel, and retire to in case of attack. Though 
 twice besieged by the English, it was never fairly captured but 
 once. 
 
 The first siege was under Lord Lake in 1804, when the enemy 
 capitulated after the English had suffered great loss, and were 
 about to turn the siege into a blockade. The other was in 1825, 
 
480 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 wlien Lord Combermere blew tlieir works to pieces by immense 
 mines. Goverdund I've described. Muttra I've said is one ol 
 the most sacred places in India, nearly equal to Benares. 
 
 Here, where Krishna is said to have bathed, the late Eajah of 
 Gwalior erected an immense tank. To this place his banker or 
 treasurer retired, after paying a million of rupees to settle his 
 accounts, and left the country with the balance of his property. 
 His son, Loochmachund, is now considered the wealthiest banker 
 in India. He is an immense dealer in opium, and a very curious 
 person. A few years ago he erected a magnificent temple at 
 Bunderabund a few miles from here, and at the same time con- 
 tributes to the missionary societies for schools, whenever they 
 ask for money. The English wished to establish a church here, 
 and he provided the parsonage. Sometimes he appears in state 
 with a carriage and six, with outriders, guards, etc. ; and a few 
 hours afterwards perhaps driving himself in an ox-cart. The 
 city of Muttra is large, and the projecting stories reminded me 
 much of Cairo. 
 
 March 6th. — This morning before breakfast I drove out to the 
 stores, to lay in supplies for my Eajpootana journey. After 
 breakfast I went and bid Messrs. Fullerton and Williams good- 
 bye, then home and packing up. This afternoon with Mawson 
 to the Taj. I dread to begin a description of its beauties, they 
 
 will so little portray them. M had his flute and played. 
 
 I've never heard anything more beautiful than the notes and 
 echoes gradually growing fainter and fainter, as they reverberated 
 through gallery, chamber, and niche. 
 
 While enjoying the beauties of the place, a Frenchman came 
 in, puffing his segar. From here we went to see a full dress 
 review by General Anson (who commands this division), of the 
 8th (Queen's), which presented a very fine appearance, as Eng- 
 lish troops always do. They went through the review in a most 
 soldierly manner. All the "beauty and fashion" were here, and 
 a few others ; for much as they have to do with the military in 
 
THE FIELD OF MAHAEAJPOEE. 481 
 
 India, still they always attract every one in the place ; partly 
 because most are connected with the regiments. 
 
 March 7th, Gwalioe. — Last night I started at half-past eight, 
 and when I got two miles out of town, I found mj bright- 
 witted servant had forgot to put in any boots, which was rather 
 an awkward "fix," as I had nothing but the slippers on my 
 feet ; so I was set down in the road for an hour, until one of the 
 bearers could go back for them. 
 
 I reached Dholepore, the half-way bungalow, at eight this 
 morning, when I had to wait nearly three hours for the next set 
 of bearers, who had not yet arrived from Gwalior. Near here 
 is a petty Eajah's palace. He sent me his salaam, but, as my 
 bearers had arrived, I did not go and see him. 
 
 This afternoon I passed over the field of Maharajpore, where 
 Lord Gough managed to blunder into a battle before he was 
 aware he was near the enemy. There had been some difficulty 
 ■with the Eanee at Gwalior, the capital of Scindia (as it is known 
 by, as Indore is known as that of Holkar, and Baroda of the 
 Guicowar — the three great ^Mahratta houses that some years ago 
 swayed all the central part of India). Lord Gough marched 
 down with about 12,000 troops, accompanied by the Governor- 
 General Lord Ellenborough, and his suite, including a number 
 of ladies, wives of notabihties, for it was hardly supposed there 
 would be a battle. 
 
 The native troops marched out to meet Lord Gough, instead 
 of waiting for him ; and meeting him as he was passing through 
 a wide open country slightly undulating, with only tall grass 
 and grain to obscure objects, they managed to pass all the native 
 army, consisting of about sixteen thousand ; and just as the ladies 
 and luggage were bringing up the rear, the natives commenced 
 the battle, and the troops had to return in order to fight, as the 
 enemy were actually behind them. The battle was one of the 
 most obstinate, and the armies more nearly matched, than in any 
 
 battle ever fought in India. 
 
 81 
 
482 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 I continued on to the Ecsidencj, when I found the Eesident was 
 not staying here, but at the cantonment, so went on about seven 
 miles. As it was nine o'clock when I reached there I told my 
 bearers to take me to the dak bungalow, not liking to present 
 myself at a stranger's house at that hour of the night. They said 
 there was no dak bungalow ; so I told them to take me to the 
 Resident's ; when I got there the servants said they had gone to a 
 ** nauichy This is the natives' only idea of the term for a dancing- 
 party, whereas, it literally means a dance by professional nautch 
 dancers, who belong to the most dissolute class in India. I under- 
 stood what was meant. They said they would not return in less 
 than two hours, and wished me to go there ; but I declined. 
 
 I waited until near one in the morninar, when the carriage 
 
 drove up to the door ; as Major M got out, I presented my 
 
 letter of introduction, mentioning whom it was from, and my 
 name, as it was dark. He at once received me most warmly, and 
 presented me to his wife and daughters, and after he had read the 
 letter, which was from one of his most particular friends, laugh- 
 ing heartily he said that when he saw me on the piazza, and the ser- 
 vant, in opening the gate, said a Sahib was waiting to see him, 
 he thought that I was a very disagreeable person who had been 
 threatening him with a visit, and whom he had been trying to 
 stop off, in various ways, and asked if I had heard any of his 
 maledictions on my supposed pertinacity (which I had not). As 
 he was only temporarily in this a small house, he said he should 
 have to put me in a tent in his garden for the night, as next day 
 he should move back to the " Residency," and would give me 
 better accommodations. So seeing me comfortable in my new 
 quarters, bid me good night. 
 
 March Sih. — This morning, as soon as I was visible, I had a 
 
 visit from Major M , who took me to the house. As they 
 
 were all busy seeing to the arrangements for moving I only 
 saw the family at breakfast ; after which he took me to call upon 
 Brigadier Hill, lately appointed to the command on account of 
 
THE FORT OF GWALIOR. 483 
 
 liis distinguished gallantry in Burmali. Then to see one or two 
 other of the principal people here. On our return I found the 
 ladies were having quite a levee, for as they are moving to the 
 Residency, people were calling to bid good-bye. Then passed a 
 very pleasant morning. 
 
 After tiffin, Major M • took me to a neighbor's, Capt. 
 
 M , upon whom he wished to quarter me for a day or two, 
 
 until he could get settled at the Residency — then home again, and 
 
 a drive with the young ladies and a ^Irs. M , wife of an 
 
 officer here. We all dined to-day at Captain H 's, and in 
 
 the evening a small party. "We had a delightful evening, music, 
 games, and dancing, — the ladies pretty and charming. 
 
 March 9th. — This morning Af drove me to the Fort of 
 
 Gwalior, which is half way between the cantonment and Resi- 
 dency. It is a lofty isolated hill, about two miles long, by a 
 third of a mile wide ; the summit being a table land, and alto- 
 gether a very odd formation, and almost impregnable unless sur- 
 prised. "We found an elephant at the gate of the fort, which 
 
 Major M had sent for us ; and mounting we ascended the 
 
 long flights of winding steps. On this, the western side, is the Pa- 
 lace forming part of the wall, and presenting a very handsome, 
 elaborately ornamented front of brown stone. High up, were 
 small balconies, where the hareem could enjoy the air unseen. 
 
 The fort is guarded by a rather fine-looking police, dressed 
 after the style of the French soldiers, in blue frock coats, 
 although they wore the Glengarry bonnets. This was the capital 
 of Scindia, and the uniform a relic of French drill and officers. 
 
 Reaching the top of the fort, I found only a mass of ruins, a 
 miserably weak citadel, and two curious Hindoo temples ; one 
 rising four stories in pyramidal form, and a mass of sculpture ; 
 the other, lofty and very similar to those of southern India, 
 except the crowning brass ornaments, which have either been 
 removed by man or time. In some places I noticed the wall was 
 broken down. M informed me that after the battle of 
 
484 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 Maliarajpore, the fort was taken from tlie Kajah, and that he 
 had been trying ever since, to get it back again. Some months 
 ago, it was done, and now his wounded honor is healed. He is 
 constantly in fear lest some of his rebellious people may seize it, 
 and get him in trouble again with the English ; and the broken 
 wall is to obviate any such difficulty. 
 
 Below, on the j)lain, I saw the Lushka (as it is termed, a camp 
 literally, I believe). Here is the palace, and his small army of 
 three thousand infantry, and five or six regiments of cavalry, 
 though the government is administered by English officers, of 
 
 whom Major M , the Kesident is the head. For several 
 
 years they were not allowed a Eesident, who is in the light of an 
 ambassador and adviser to the sovereign, as ihej wished to 
 humble the pride of the Rajah and his people. 
 
 The authority of the Resident is supported by an army called 
 the contingent, containing about eight or nine thousand men, 
 who are officered on the principle of the local corps, viz. a com- 
 manding officer, usually a captain or major from the Company's 
 service, with a second in command, and adjutant, all of whom 
 arc highly paid ; the first 1000 rupees per month, the other two, 
 700 and 500. These appointments are looked on as great favors, 
 and much sought after, — in fact, a native (army) officer strives for 
 any appointment. It would seem that it were an anxiety to get 
 out of his regiment as soon as possible, as if he thought it a 
 stigma to remain in it. I suppose the reason is, that being out 
 of his regiment, and, as it were, brought more prominently 
 before the authorities, he thus has a better chance of getting 
 ahead in high appointments. 
 
 About three miles distant I saw the Residency. On this side of 
 the fort are numerous bastions, strengthening the fort where weak, 
 and mingling the Divine and physical law, they had some deities 
 
 cut out of the rock. Then back to M 's. Several visitors 
 
 dropped in, among them, Captain M , a very nice fellow. 
 
 He has just been reading Miss Bremer's "Homes in the New 
 World," and was very anxious to know who many of the nota- 
 
THE RESIDENCY. 485 
 
 bilities are, and sent me the book to read. I rode out and made 
 two or three visits by myself; on my return looked over Miss 
 Bremer's book. The poor little woman was evidently laboring 
 under dyspepsia, when in most places in the United States. She 
 was awfully bored by attentions in our country ; for though our 
 cities are populous and our people travel much, they are very far 
 from being more than mere villagers in the knowledge of the 
 world as regards officious and curious attention to strangers : 
 often much more from a desire to gain notability for themselves, 
 than any desire to afford pleasure to the guest, and in spite of 
 foreigners laughing at our absurd habit, almost of sycophancy, in 
 running after any foreigner we fancy of note, our vanity and noto- 
 riety so far overcome all the feelings of sensibility, that we don't 
 mind being laughed at, if our amour ipropre can be flattered. 
 
 This afternoon M drove me out ; we stopped to see the 
 
 church, an exquisite building — one of the prettiest I have seen 
 in India. We dined at the mess, and this evening went to a 
 party at Mrs. A 's. 
 
 March 10th, Eesidexcy. — This morning M gave me 
 
 a " mount," and we took a gallop round the station, which is 
 very prettily situated. I saw a native regiment manoeuvring 
 and throwing out skirmishers, which they did very skilfully. 
 We met several ladies and gentlemen riding. 
 
 We stopped at Mrs. M 's for breakfast ; then home, and 
 
 starting off my things by Coolies for the Eesidency, I followed 
 
 in a buggy Major M sent for me. This afternoon M 
 
 and Mrs. M drove down. The Major took me to visit 
 
 the Eajah, he (the Major) wishing to take a present the Governor 
 General had sent for him. The Eajah is a very ordinary -looking 
 person, and being of the reigning family, it pleased the East India 
 Company to put him on the throne. The minister is a xeiy 
 clever Brahmin. The Eajah, who is fond of billiards, asked the 
 Major to play, but he wished me to relieve him by taking his 
 place, which I did, and had the honor of being beaten. 
 
486 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 Returning home, we drove througli tlie city, whicli has great 
 numbers of disgustingly obscene figures, which the Major is 
 endeavoring to put a stop to ; but it is a very delicate business, 
 
 as they form part of the native worship. M and Mrs. 
 
 M dined with us, bringing me a note from Captain 
 
 M , begging me to return to the cantonment next week, 
 
 to spend a day with him, and offering to give me a party in the 
 evening, if I would ; but I had to decline. 
 
 March 11th. — This morning I took a daylight walk ; then had 
 
 a visit from Major M in my room, where he has been 
 
 examining my sketches, and inquiring my routes. Shortly after, 
 he gave me three letters of introduction to gentlemen on the 
 road, who are the Residents, or political agents at those places. 
 
 All the morning I've been enjoying the pleasure of Miss 
 
 M M 's company, with music, sketches, etc. Then 
 
 tiffin. This afternoon we've been tuning the piano — I the me- 
 chanical, and she the scientific, — after which she played and sung 
 
 for me; then a drive with Mrs. M and the daughters. 
 
 This evening a variety of amusements, music, etc. Among the 
 
 pieces. Miss M • sung "Topsey," from "Uncle Tom," for 
 
 my benefit, and the first time I had heard it. 
 
 March 12th, Sunday. — This morning, as I was taking a day- 
 light walk, I met two palanquins, and a Lieutenant F- 
 
 and his wife just from Agra, and coming to the Residency. I 
 returned just as the ladies were starting on their morning ride. 
 
 Then Major M brought me another letter to the political 
 
 agent at Mount Aboo — Major A , and advised me to write 
 
 to Colonel George Lawrence, to inform me about my route, and 
 furnish me with guards, orders, etc., that might be necessary. 
 Then breakfast ; and as the church was eight miles distant, it 
 looked like rain, and no chaplain here at present, the Major 
 proposed reading service at home, and as in that case it always 
 fell on Miss M , she tried to persuade her father to relieve 
 
AN AGREEABLE FAMILY. 487 
 
 her to-day, as there were three strangers present. But he 
 declined doing more than the sermon; then she asked me to 
 relieve her ; but as I don't go more than half the time to the 
 Episcopal church, I forgot the run of the service, although I 
 can always follow in church — I made that my excuse. Then 
 
 she asked Mr. F ; he said he was Presbyterian ; so I told 
 
 her I would have compassion on her, if she would play clerk, 
 and give me the order of the places before I began. As the 
 prayer-book was an old one, newly-bound and fresh-looking, I 
 came near making a ludicrous mistake ; for in the midst of the 
 multitudinous prayers for the Royal family, I came suddenly 
 upon one for the Dowager Queen Charlotte, who has been dead 
 any number of years, the recollection of which flashed across 
 my mind just in time to save me ; but with my quick perception 
 of the ridiculous, it nearly upset my risibles; however, I got 
 through very creditably, I believe, and they all laughed heartily 
 when I told them about it, and said I would have been apprised 
 of my mistake by a peal of laughter. 
 
 This afternoon I am obliged to return to Agra again, and 
 much regret that my time here is so limited, for it is one of the 
 most agreeable houses I've yet visited, and the young ladies the 
 prettiest and most accomplished I've met in India. The eldest 
 of the two has only been married about a year, and her husband 
 lately ordered on service in Burmah, where ladies cannot go; 
 the younger is unmarried.* From my letter of introduction, I 
 have been treated almost like one of their own family, they 
 doing everything to render my visit pleasant, and Major M 
 
 * The day I reached Bombay, the eldest daughter's husband, who is on the 
 
 stafif, died of cholera. A year after, Major il died from fever, and 
 
 shortly after, Mrs. M ; and in another year the second daughter had 
 
 lost her only child, and the youngest daughter, vrho Avas married a few 
 months after I saw her, lost her fii-st child — making five deaths in the family 
 in two years ; and during the mutiny, they were among those who were 
 obhged to fly to Agra for safety,— luckily, no further mishap befell any of them. 
 
488 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 giving me letters to all the people in authority and position on 
 the road. 
 
 The young ladies are among the many instances of the style 
 of young ladies generally found in India now : as no child can 
 grow up here without injury to its health, it is sent home to 
 England as early as possible, and there educated ; if a boy, he 
 returns as cadet, civil or military; or if a daughter, at about 
 eighteen — in either event, boy or girl, with the best education, 
 usually. The daughter generally marries shortly after she 
 arrives, and the son is sent to his station; often the families 
 don't come together again in years. I supposed it would break 
 all the nicer ties of affection, but I am told by various families it 
 does not. And in this manner officers find as elegant, accom- 
 plished wives as they could in England. I have met none more 
 so than the young ladies at this house. 
 
 March loth, Agra. — My dhooly and things were started 
 off yesterday afternoon, and after dinner, I, in a buggy, over- 
 taking them a few miles out. I reached here at twelve at noon 
 
 to-day; M had just returned from a drive, and proposed 
 
 taking me to the Arsenal. Here is Ackbar's marble throne, 
 where he administered justice, and beneath is the marble slab 
 where his Vizier sat. The room is long, and filled v/ith stands 
 of arms and flags taken in diflerent battles. 
 
 At one end of the room stand the famous gates of Sumnaut. 
 When the celebrated Mahmond of Ghuzne overran the western 
 part of India, among his conquests was the holy Brahminical 
 ■city of Sumnaut, celebrated for the wealth of its temples. After 
 the capture, in the destruction of the temples, the priests offered 
 .an immense sum of money to Mahmond to save their chief idol. 
 The stern fanatic paused a moment, and then exclaiming, " Truth 
 is better than gold," struck it with his mace so powerful a blow 
 as to split it in pieces, revealing an immense amount of gold 
 ^nd jewels, far greater than the offered ransom. 
 
 The gates of this temple he removed to his capital of Ghuzne, 
 
THE TAJ AT AGRA. 489 
 
 where they remained until the end of the Afghan war, when they 
 were brought from Ghuzne after its capture, and set up at 
 Agra with a pompous flourish by Lord Ellenborough, which 
 you doubtless recollect. They are about twelve feet high, 
 made of sandal wood, mostly composed of small pieces elabo- 
 rately carved and inlaid, like the ceilings of some of the 
 rooms in the Alhambra. On one door is a horse-shoe, reputed 
 to have been nailed there by the conqueror as a sign of con- 
 quest. They bear evident marks of great age. Then home, and 
 after dinner to the Taj for the last time. 
 
 The building is situated on a large terrace at the end of a 
 handsome garden on the bank of the river. The terrace is 
 several hundred feet square, and paved with white marble ; at 
 one end a mosque, at the other a building corresponding in 
 style, called the jawab or answer. In the centre stands the Taj, 
 a most unique and beautiful tribute of a mouarch's affection 
 for a much-loved wife, built by Shah Jehan for a favorite 
 wife at an immense cost. Tavernier, an early French traveller, 
 says, 20,000 men were engaged on it for twenty-two years, and 
 it cost more than $15,000,000. 
 
 The building is octagonal. From the centre rises a lofty 
 dome, and on the corners are smaller domes ; at each of the 
 four corners of the terrace rises a beautifully graceful marble 
 minar. The building externally and internally, for a height of 
 about ten or twelve feet, is beautifully ornamented Avith a 
 profusion of fine mosaic in Florentine style, representing flowers 
 and vines. In the centre, under the dome, are the tombs of 
 Shah Jehan, and his wife for whom that place was built. 
 They are surrounded by an open-work screen of white marble 
 — the most beautiful of the many I have seen in India. The 
 building is all of the purest white marble. The fine mosaics 
 have puzzled the curious ; Bishop Heber says they were done 
 by Italians who lived at Agra. The whole affair has been a 
 theme of prose and poetic description ; but as I deal in dull 
 facts, you w^ill perhaps gather as much from them as the 
 
490 FEOM WALL STEEET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 poetry, for neither can convey the least idea of this wonder- 
 fally beautiful monument. 
 
 Shah Jehan laid the foundations of a corresponding one on the 
 opposite side of the river, for himself; but his son, Auruing- 
 zebe, following the hereditary virtue of a father who had deposed 
 and murdered all his brothers for a throne, deposed him like- 
 wise, and thinking it better economy to put him by the side 
 of his wife in this tomb, did so. 
 
 The tomb is generally known as that of Noor Mahal, " the 
 Light of the Harem," in Lalla Eookh ; but she was the wife of 
 Jehan Ghir, and both were buried in a beautiful tomb built by 
 Jehan Ghir, near Lahore. 
 
 Shah Jehan did more towards decorating Delhi and Agra 
 than all of the other emperors. It was he who had the won- 
 derful peacock throne made, that cost £6,000,000 ; he also built 
 the Jumma-Musjid at Delhi. Moore, in his Lalla Eookh, has 
 mingled the beauty, genius, and accomplishments of Noor Mahal 
 and the splendor of Shah Jehan, who was in the habit not only of 
 lavishing money here on elegant buildings, feasts, etc., but also 
 in Cashmere which he visited every summer. Noor Mahal, who 
 was the daughter of an Afghan peasant, by her wondrous 
 beauty gained a throne, and by her cleverness caused her hus- 
 band to constantly consult her during his life. She was as bold 
 as clever, and intriguing. In one of the rebellions she exposed 
 herself on an elephant in the midst of the fight, discharging 
 arrows at the enemy. 
 
 Coming home — this evening I started for Bombay via Eajpoo- 
 tana. Agra is the city of the interior of India. The Governor 
 of the North-west Provinces resides here. There are also many 
 public buildings and institutions.* 
 
 March 14^A, Bhurtpore. — Started last evening, I in one 
 dhooly and my servant in another — a miniature affair. I have a 
 
 * During the insurrection the fort furnished an asylum to hundreds of 
 fugitives from the Sepoys — men, AYomen, and children. 
 
Skelclieil by the Aiitlior. 
 
 PALACE GRANt) AUDIENCE HALL, DELUL 
 
 •• Ami, nil 1 if tluTC be an Klysiiitn,'' &.c. 
 
 See page 46~. 
 
Sketched by thi; Aiitlior. Sec [lage 3." 9 
 
 SIEKII TANK UMRITZEK. CKNGAL. 
 
i 
 
JYPORE EESIDENCY. 491 
 
 troop of twenty-six men, who are to take me as far as Oodepoore, 
 perhaps Cambay, to march at the rate of from twenty-eight to 
 thirty miles per day, and as I have seen this, and the road I have 
 traversed before, I have nothing to do but muse on the plea- 
 sant past. 
 
 March IQth, Maunpore. — I am now three marches on the 
 road, and seen nothing of interest ; low hills, a flat country, and an 
 occasional pariah dog, perhaps a stray native or so, frequently 
 passing a dried-up river. The people are all much alarmed, 
 fearing that from some freak of nature they will have a famine 
 or die of thirst, as many of the wells and streams are drying 
 up. 
 
 March 17th, Bhurunah Bungalow. — This morning I was 
 awoke by a tremendous shouting, " Sa-aib, Sa-aib, Chicar, Chi- 
 car," so I started up, rubbed my eyes, and saw a herd of ante- 
 lopes. I got up, and getting about three hundred yards from 
 them, fired and missed. Then I got in again and jogged on to 
 this place, where I am enjoying the usual and perfect tranquil- 
 lity of these bungalows. 
 
 March 18th, Jypore Eesidency. — I awoke this morning just 
 before reaching the city, the road to which, for a short dis- 
 tance, is an avenue of temples. As I approached the city I saw 
 numbers of horse-dealers from the north, with their long matted 
 locks, dirty faces, and dirtier clothes. Then a very holy Brah- 
 min with a cloth over his mouth to prevent his destroying life by 
 swallo\\ang insects. 
 
 Two miles further the Residency. The appearance is singular, 
 and on approaching it looks like a fortress, especially on seeing 
 the Sepoy guard. There is a fine large garden enclosed by the 
 
 wall. Colonel E ■ was in the garden, so I sent my letter 
 
 and card, and slowly sauntered after. He gave me a cordial 
 welcome ; then showing me my room, I made my toilet, and soon 
 
492 FEOM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 joined him and Mrs. R in the breakfast room. We then 
 
 adjourned to the arbor, where he enjoyed his cheroot, and I the 
 overland " extra." Then a chat about America, where he thinks of 
 living after retiring from India. 
 
 Returning to the parlor, Mrs. R joined us, and then an 
 
 oddity, a Mrs. L , wife of an officer now dead. She was 
 
 a half-caste, large, and fine looking, well educated, but has an 
 erratic brain that is always leading her into queer things. She 
 affects " bloomers," but seems very ill at ease in them. Some- 
 times she dons the coat, trowsers, beard, moustache, sword, and 
 dagger. After dinner she started on her journey northward, and 
 I on an elephant to the town. Entering, I stopped to see an old 
 temple in a dirty lane, with a marble throne, on which was a 
 miniature deity, with two attendants, all of which were in white 
 marble ; on either side two galleries with rows of marble columns 
 supporting arches, and a gaudily yet prettily-decorated ceiling, 
 
 which Colonel R 's servant admired prodigiously, and was 
 
 anxious I should do the same. 
 
 Then to one of the many palaces, a curious labyrinthine mass, 
 rising six or seven stories, terminating almost in a point. In the 
 upper part is a curious room and verandah, supported by low 
 swelling columns, which were covered with a kind of blue ena- 
 mel, the ceilings decorated with gilding and small bits of con- 
 vex glass, in every variety of shape. 
 
 From here is a fine view of the citv, the semicircle of hills 
 crested with small forts, temple, and a palace or two — the low 
 sandy plain, and a large garden with fountains, complete the ob- 
 jects, unless I include the bazaar now at its busiest hour, when 
 the masses below in every imaginable hue, look like the con- 
 fused mingling of kaleidoscope colors. 
 
 The buildings from here look much more massive and strong 
 than from the street, though the city is better built, and more 
 regular than almost any other city in India, besides multitudes 
 of trees whose foliage adds much to the picturesque effect. Then 
 to another palace, but with nothing to see. The town is almost 
 
THE VALLEY OF AJMERE. 493 
 
 entirely without defence, at wliiclil am mucli surprised, supposing 
 it was well fortified, as it is one of the independent states. There 
 is a small ruined fort near by. 
 
 The present Eajah has only recently ascended the throne, and 
 
 until two years ago, Colonel K managed all the affairs of 
 
 government. The Rajah receives about one-third of the re- 
 venues ; one-third is held by the chiefs, a kind of feudal barons ; 
 the rest by the priests. The country is generally poor and badly 
 irrigated; crops are very uncertain. On his one-third of the 
 13,000 square miles, and population of about 2,500,000, he ma- 
 naged sometimes to realize nearly £350,000. But now the Rajah, 
 under his own mismanagement and oppression, has a bankrupt 
 
 treasury. Colonel and Mrs. R must have a lonesome time 
 
 here, there being only one other European — the Doctor, and he not 
 pleasant. 
 
 March 20th, Ajmere. — Two days more — nothing yesterday 
 but a small and distant hill fort ; the country dull and sandy ; a 
 Parsee in a palanquin, and a few antelopes were the only living 
 objects to vary the monotony. This morning, at daylight, 
 passed a rather large walled town, now very dilapidated. An 
 hour after a large herd of antelopes crossed the road ; among them 
 some black bucks ; shortly after, treasure waggons, and escort of 
 two companies of Sepoys, and some cavalry, en route to Delhi, 
 with 600,000 rupees. At three I passed through a gorge of the 
 hills, and entered the valley of Ajmere (I say valley, it is), 
 and a table land also, 2,000 feet above the sea, and forms the 
 ridge or backbone, as it were of India, from which most of the 
 rivers flow east or west — and singular to relate, some of the rivers 
 flow up towards Delhi. 
 
 The valley is one of the most picturesque in India, walled in 
 on all sides by broken ranges of hills. Here is a burnt up plain, 
 while a few miles beyond, is the low valley, burdened with luxu- 
 riant vegetation, for which thanks may be given to Colonel Dixon's 
 good management, and the conduits from the lake. Here an 
 
494: FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 occasional pointed roof of a bungalow may be seen peering from 
 among the trees. Still further on, the city of Ajmere, on the side 
 of a hill, up whose broken sides are seen extending the chu- 
 named walls of the town, and glittering in the sun, as if freshly 
 dosed with a brush instead of having borne the storms of centuries. 
 
 High above the town, on a lofty hill, stands the fortress, and 
 every lesser hill crested with a temple or petty fort. At four I 
 reached Dowlut-Bagh, Colonel Dixon's temporary residence — his 
 principal one being at another place, some thirty-six miles dis- 
 tant. My men were regularly fagged out, marching 85 miles this 
 hot weather in two days, and I was not feeling much fresher 
 after a dusting and fasting of nearly 22 hours, and only protected 
 form the sun by this imaginary shelter of a dhool3^ 
 
 By good luck I found Colonel Dixon here ; he is the commis- 
 sioner and governor, to all intents and purposes, for he manages 
 so well the government allows him to do whatever he thinks most 
 advisable. He is a very pleasant old gentleman, and a resident 
 of this country for forty years without once leaving it. Eail- 
 ways and steamers are only pictures in his imagination. 
 
 After making myself somewhat comfortable, he proposed a walk 
 through the public gardens. Then from the top of a neighbor- 
 ing hill, we had a beautiful sunset view of the lake — a pretty 
 little sheet of water, a mile and a half long, by three quarters wide. 
 Multitudes of ducks and other waterfowl were enjoying flying 
 and swimming privileges. Returning home we enjoyed the even- 
 ing breeze from the lake until dinner, and the refreshing sound of 
 the dashing waters against the foundations of the house beneath 
 the balcony where we sat. 
 
 March 21. — This morning at daylight, Colonel D and I 
 
 rode to the town, visiting the old Jahn temple, said to be very 
 ancient. Parts were rebuilt by the Mussulmaun conquerors, who 
 have covered the walls with quotations from the Koran in Ara- 
 bic character. Thence into the valley between the high hills 
 where the ancient Ajmere stood. 
 
GROVES AND PLANTATIONS. 495 
 
 A nest of plundering Rajahs like tlie mail-clad barons, who oc- 
 cupied the fortresses on the Rhine and Danube three centuries 
 ago. Robbing is a profession here, and not considered disgrace- 
 ful, for might makes right here as in most other places. The 
 Rajpoots always allow their whiskers to grow long, and brush 
 and pull them out to their extremest length. 
 
 "We then drove into the city, and saw the mosque, which some- 
 what reminded me of the Mootee Musjid at Agra, only not so 
 massive, or elegant. Then saw a fine tank built by Colonel 
 
 J) J during the famine in '38, and supplied by water from 
 
 a never-failing spring in the hills. Around this tank, or bowlee, 
 are nice native dwelling houses, with verandahs opening on 
 the bowlee, and affording a cool pure air in the warm weather 
 evenings. Then to another bowlee he has just finished — built by 
 subscription among the natives. To-day a wealthy native has 
 subscribed 4,000 rupees for a fine colonnade around it. Colonel 
 
 D , by heading the subscriptions himself, induces the others 
 
 to follow his example, and thus adorns their city. 
 
 There is much wealth here, though actually very little busi- 
 ness done, except through agents at Delhi, Agra, Benares, and 
 Patna. We then went to the Dispensary, and so on home, and 
 to the top of the house for a fine view of the lake and city. 
 
 On the opposite side of the lake is an old Hindoo temple, which 
 in the distance, looks just like one of the old Abbey views so 
 frequently met with in England. Then, after breakfast, we dis- 
 cussed the probable war with Russia over some fresh papers. 
 The Colonel then went to his kutcherry, and I to write letters to 
 
 Major M , and Colonel Lawrence for orders, guards, etc., 
 
 to meet me on the road. 
 
 This afternoon Colonel D drove me out, and showed 
 
 me groves and avenues of fine trees, mangoes, and others, that he 
 had planted years ago, the mangoe being a very useful tree 
 
 to the native for its fruit. Colonel D says, during the 
 
 wars, when thousands of trees were cut down, the tamarinds all 
 escaped, owing to the wood being too hard for the native axes. 
 

 496 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 He showed me some of the rose plantations he has induced 
 the natives to cultivate. They now have 200 acres of them! 
 He is in hopes of getting the large sweet rose that blooms but 
 once a year, to unite its properties with that of the small cluster 
 rose, which blooms twice a year, and has offered to give all the 
 natives who make the experiment successfully, four rupees each. 
 He hopes, in this way, to get plantations of large clustering 
 roses, blooming twice a year, from which much ottar can be 
 made. He has also dotted the country with small lakes or 
 bunds, where the water has been collected by skilful engineer- 
 ing ; and by irrigating the soil, they tend much to increase the 
 prosperity of the country and the revenue. He told me, 
 Government had informed him, that any requisition he may 
 make on them for improvements would be promptly met — a 
 most agreeable compliment and satisfaction for a faithful admi- 
 nistration of the country for twenty-five years. 
 
 Of the revenues of the country, a large portion belong to the 
 petty chiefs or temples, both of which are free from the Govern- 
 ment tax, so thut the actual receipts of Government for the 
 immediate district of Ajmere, consisting of 2600 square miles, is 
 only six lacs, or $300,000. I presume these statistics will not 
 have very great interest for you, but they may to me hereafter. 
 Then home. Captain Tishmaker (German), in the Company's 
 service, dined with us. There are only about six families here, 
 and most of those temporarily absent. 
 
 March 22d, Berai Bungalow. — Started at eight last night, 
 after a pleasant visit, necessarily hastened by the necessity of my 
 reaching Bombay, by the 10th of April, for the steamer. I had 
 lots of trouble getting guides on the road. Passed Nusseerabad 
 Cantonment* at two in the morning. Kear here are some old 
 Mussulmaun tombs, and a small fort on the isolated crest of a hill. 
 
 * This was another of the places where the mutiny broke out, but was not 
 successful. 
 
CHEETORE. 497 
 
 March 2Uh, IIumergur Bungalow. — Mj yesterday's bun- 
 galow was in a small town. Last niglit I had trouble with 
 my men about the marches. To-day I received a letter from 
 Colonel George Lawrence, with orders for Cheetore. Near the 
 bungalow is a pretty little tank. 
 
 March 2olh, Cheetore. — My men are getting worse and 
 worse, the basrgage men falling behind, and the bearers settinsr 
 me down to rest ten times during the night. So to-daj', half a 
 dozen of them coming in an hour behind the dhooly, I got 
 them all in the close verandah, and made them acquainted with 
 " Uncle Tom " and the heavy lash of my hunting-whip, I then 
 started on foot for the town, about a mile distant, sending my 
 order with a request for a horse, and that both the horse and permit 
 should be sent after me. Just before reaching the town crossed 
 a large stream and heavy stone bridge. The town is very poor. 
 
 The fort, somewhat like Gwalior, an isolated hill with a table- 
 land on the summit, with a long winding path up to it. Here 
 are some ruins of old temples, tanks, dilapidated houses and 
 palaces, with two very curious Hindoo towers, a lofty mass of 
 sculpture, with interior winding stairs to ascend by. The whole 
 is built of a fine yellowish sandstone. Just as I reached the top^ 
 I all but ran my head into a large hornets' nest, that had usurped 
 a considerable portion of the passage. On my way back I met 
 the Bucephalus, a most particularly curious-looking article. 
 However, he had four legs, and strength to carry me, which was 
 better than walking, this hot day. On my return to the bunga- 
 low, I found several officers, who introduced themselves, and 
 invited me to join their party for meals, a visit to the fort, and 
 shooting, for which they had leave for several days, I was 
 obliged to decline^ in order to reach Bombay. 
 
 March 26/A. — Last night I was much delayed by not getting 
 guides. This morning I passed several large fields of opium, and 
 am now sheltered by a grove of mangoe trees. My larder is 
 
 32 
 
498 FROM "WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 decidedly low — nothing but tea, a can of preserved oysters "were 
 my "prog" for to-day. 
 
 March 27 (Ji, Oodeypore. — I have lodgings in a splendid 
 bungalow, belonging to the Eana, but without a single table, 
 and only one chair. I found a package of letters, and instruc- 
 tions from Colonel George Lawrence. I sent the letter contain- 
 ing his order to the Eana's prime minister, who sent me a lot of 
 tough mutton, and other things. This afternoon he called to see 
 me ; he is an awfully fat old fellow, and as ugly a " mug " as 
 any human being need be troubled with. All the time he was 
 talking with me, lie amused himself playing icith his toes. He 
 sent for a horse, and also an elephant, for me, and gave orders 
 that some siwars be sent to escort me to Mount Aboo. 
 
 I sent off the letter of introduction from Colonel Lawrence to 
 
 Major A , the political agent at Mount Aboo and Seroie. 
 
 After which, I started on a very fat liorse for the lake, meeting 
 the elephant that had been sent for me. I changed. The lake 
 is a very pretty sheet of water, about a mile and a half long by 
 a mile wide, and formed by a bund or dam. In it are three 
 little islands, two with marble pavilions just visible from the 
 midst of the trees. On every side are high-peaked hills with 
 foliage and herbage ; occasionally small cottages and ruined 
 fortresses, or bits of wall, giving it a most picturesque appearance. 
 
 The town is on three hills ; the palace on one, and reaches 
 down to the water's edge. It is a huge, baronial-looking affair 
 — all but the white-wash. Near this, and adjoining the town 
 walls, on a high hill, is a walled preserve, with all kinds of 
 game, tigers, leopards, deer, etc. On the islands, with the pavi- 
 lions, are small gardens with fountains. The city is tolerably 
 well built, and populous. 
 
 The boats or barges on the lake were most antediluvian affairs. 
 The pavilions are beautiful little structures, and a delightful 
 resort in the warm weather. There was a lovely sunset as I 
 returned to the bungalow, giving a double charm to the beau- 
 
EXTORTIONATE BEARERS, 499 
 
 tifal views that encircle the spot. There I found the men had 
 been deciding not to go on with me. I sent to the minister foi^ 
 camels and men ; he sent for answer that it was too late ; so I 
 must lose another day. 
 
 March 2Sth. — This morning I arranged with a camel-man to 
 take me, and to-day I have been sketching the city. This after- 
 noon, just as I had got all ready to go, the camel-man came to 
 tell me he had no saddle, and could not go within the time he 
 had arranged. So I controlled my rage, and merely catching him 
 by the beard, moderately choked him ; after which I had a consul- 
 tation with my old bearers who were still hanging about, when 
 they finally consented to go, on my paying enormous wages ; and 
 at eight, I suppose the spirit will move them to start. A Eajah 
 called to see me and look at my rifle and gun, 
 
 March 29</i, Gagoondah, — I finally got off from Oodeypore 
 late last evening. It is one of the oldest, and most pictu- 
 resque of the Rajpoot cities. My escort was to protect me from 
 the Bheals, a villanous cut-throat set who inhabit these moun- 
 tains, and will murder a man for his turban, even less, but are 
 such cowards they rarely attack Europeans. The road was 
 horribly bad, and I have availed myself of the shelter of a tama- 
 rind tree in the absence of a buno^alow. 
 
 o 
 
 March BOth, KiAR. — We did not get off until six last evening, 
 and then my men, instead of taking me direct, have been carry- 
 ing me all over the country, and I did not reach here until two 
 this afternoon — twenty hours. I should say it required some 
 patience to travel in this part of the country — and with such 
 brutes. I've got precious little shelter against a grilHng sun. I 
 cannot buy any provisions, and all I have left, is one egg and 
 two coarse corn-meal chepatties, tough, bitter, and indigestible, for' 
 the Khansomar reports that all the preserved meats and soups are, 
 gone, though I thought I had laid in enough to reach Cambay. 
 
500 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 I have seen great numbers of Blieals to-day, every man witli his 
 bow and quiver fall of lance-headed arrows. The country 
 appeal^ very barren, and scarcely cultivated in any part. The 
 leaves are all burnt up by the sun. One fiery red flower is 
 all that dare make its appearance, and that is on a leafless tree. 
 
 March 3I5/, Mt. Aboo. — Starting at seven last night, I had a 
 long walk through a mountain pass ; the opening on this side is 
 in the Aracailee mountains. At midnight I came out into an 
 open plain and at eight this morning reached Kuchrole, three 
 miles from the foot of the mountain, where I found a note from 
 
 Major A , with a Sepoy, chair, and bearers. My old 
 
 bearers I sent on with the dhoolics, my servant and heavy 
 traps to Anadra about 30 miles distant on the opposite side of 
 the mountain, to await my descent. 
 
 The siwars wished hay for their horses, and not being able to 
 buy it, I sent for the head man of the town, and told him what I 
 wanted. He was as insolent as the villagers. I told him I should 
 inform the political agent; and not minding that, I told my ser- 
 vant to pull off his puggery ; but he was afraid, so I jerked it off 
 myself) and kicked it — one of the greatest insults. Not succeeding 
 in getting the hay, I broke a stick over his back when he came 
 to terms, and sold me what was wanted. Then the men started 
 for Anadra, and I for Aboo. The scat to carry me on was a 
 chair, secured to two poles, and my feet resting on a loose 
 rope. I was borne by four men of unequal height, so had 
 ups and downs in abundance. But the worst part was when 
 I reached the mountain. On the way I passed some pea-foul 
 and a fox. The men luckily climbed up the mountain with- 
 out a single " spill," though I had one narrow escape on a side 
 hill, where one of my bearers slipped, but fortunately caught 
 himself In many places they went up on hands and knees, and 
 others, so much worse, I had to get off and walk, hot as it was. 
 
 I saw a very large mungoose, the cobra's greatest enemy. Ai 
 last I reached the to]p of the hill, a journey of eight miles in five 
 
Sketched by tho Author. See page 489. 
 
 INTERIOR OF TAJ MAHAL AND TOMB, AGRA. 
 
Jill!l!!mlliillllull;h l:ii:ll:!^r"!l:, i.riM •ii:^i,ilir ,'■;. i, , „ 
 
 Skeldicd by the Autlior. 
 
 TlIKrEACUCK TIIUONK, DBXIII. 
 
 ?ec jingc 401. 
 
THE JAIN DEWILWARA TEMPLES. 501 
 
 hours! Here are some old Hindoo temples witli a brazen bull, 
 and an old ruined tank. Then on for nearly five miles over a 
 very wild hilly country, but of fine scenery, passing on the road 
 
 a lady and two gentlemen riding. Major A was not at 
 
 home when I arrived, but came in a few minutes after with Mrs. 
 
 A and their little daughter. They received me in the 
 
 kindest m-anner, I having been introduced by an old and 
 esteemed friends of theii-s, I spent a pleasant evening, and now 
 for a good night's rest — the second I shall have enjoyed in 
 twenty days." 
 
 April 1st. — At daylight Major A and I started for a 
 
 walk to the temples, little Miss Emily following on her pony. 
 They are the famous Jain Dewilwara temples : they are enclosed 
 by a high wall, which is surrounded by rocks and jungle. The 
 interior of the temples is entirely of white marble, and an 
 immense number of columns, all most elaborately sculptured. I 
 presume they are the most beautiful of any temples in India — 
 certainly of any I have seen. 
 
 Mr. Elphinstone, one of the late governors of Bombay, who 
 was very learned in such matters, says the chief objects of their 
 worship are a limited number of saints raised by their austerities 
 to a superiority over the gods and called Tirtunkeras; of these 
 there are twenty-four past, twenty-four present, and twenty-four 
 for future ages. The priests are called Jutes, and of all castes. 
 Their dress is a large, loose white mantle, with the hair and 
 beard closely clipped. They carry a black rod and brush to 
 sweep away animals. The Jain temples generally are very large 
 and handsome, often fiat roofed, and like private houses, with 
 courts and colonnades; but sometimes surrounded by colossal sta- 
 
 * I mentioned my difficulty with the head man at the village below, on 
 
 Major A's asking me how I got along, when he said I wonder he did 
 
 not stab you Avhcn you insulted him so. I said in America we always had 
 two sides to such sport, and my revolver was in my pocket, ready if neces- 
 sary. He laughed at this new view of the matter. 
 
^02 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 tues of tlic Tirtunkcras. These temples were built by tbe 
 Jains eiglit hundred years ago. 
 
 After seeing the temples we mounted our horses which had 
 been led after us and galloped home. In a few minutes after our 
 
 return, Major K , a brother-in-law of Major A , came 
 
 in, and between them they arranged to have my dak laid to 
 
 Cambay; but I am fearful Major K 's off-hand way will 
 
 make a blunder, and give me as many again men as I want. I 
 did intend going via Baroda, in order to see Captain and Mrs. 
 
 W , the first of my many kind friends in India, and say 
 
 good-bye to them, and again thank them for all the kindnesses I 
 have received from them, and their friends through the many 
 letters they gave me. But the numerous delays of my rascally 
 Coolies will jDrevent me, and I shall be obliged to go as speedily 
 as possible direct to Bombay, or shall lose the steamer and be 
 delayed a fortnight. 
 
 After breakfast Major A came into the pretty little cot- 
 tage in the garden he has put me in, to say the mail had arrived 
 and brought fresh English news, with rumors of war, which are 
 
 watched very closely here. This afternoon Sir E and 
 
 Lady S called. He is political agent at Jodpore. Then 
 
 Major A and I rode to the top of one of the hills for a 
 
 fine view of the places on the Deesa side of Mount Aboo. This 
 
 evening Dr. E and a Mr. P , nephew of Sir 
 
 P , of the Afghan campaign, dined with us. 
 
 To day Mrs. A gave me a long account of the captivity 
 
 of herself and husband during the Afghan campaign. Major 
 
 A was appointed to the command of a regiment of cavalry, 
 
 raised by order of the English government to support their can- 
 didate for the throne against Dost Mahommed ; and when he 
 went to take command, he took his wife with him. At the first 
 outbreak they were made prisoners, and after nine months 
 imprisonment they were rescued by a party of Hill people who 
 were favorable to the English. She said they were very well 
 treated by Mahommed Akbar, the fighting son of Dost Mahom 
 
ANADRA AND DEESA. 503 
 
 med. She spent two years in tliat country, and her husband 
 four. 
 
 April 2nd. — This morning the Major and I took our day- 
 light ride, visiting the lake — a pretty little sheet of water 
 encircled by a barrier of hill and mountain. He showed me 
 a very pretty church they had just built by subscription. This 
 afternoon all the people of the place (about a dozen) met here, 
 
 and Major A read service. Then we all took an evening 
 
 stroll. 
 
 April Srd, Anadra. — This morning a daylight ride. There 
 are no drives here, a carriage could not be brought up, the hill 
 
 is so steep on all sides. Then we went to Sir R S 's 
 
 where we met two or three others, all of .w^hom had come like 
 ourselves to see the working of a miniature telegraph of his own 
 construction, "We amused ourselves with a galvanic battery and 
 the natives, offering them rupees if they would take them off the 
 jar which we kept moderately charged. Then home and break- 
 fasting, after which I went out and sketched the lake. On my 
 
 return I found Dr. E waiting to see me with a letter to 
 
 his father, who lives at the Cape of Good Hope, — a man of high 
 position there. This afternoon, at four, off again. 
 
 Just as I've made new acquaintances and known them long 
 enough to like them, I am obliged to leave, until sometimes I 
 feel as if I would not present another letter of introduction. I 
 reached this place, which is at the bottom of the hill, in about 
 three hours. My luggage going down very slowly. Here I 
 found all my new bearers, and servants, besides an escort of 
 
 siwars provided by Majors A and K to see me 
 
 safely through their districts,* 
 
 April ^th, Deesa, 54 miles. — Last night I started at eight with 
 twice the number of men I wanted, or should have been required 
 
 * This delightful spot was another of the scenes of mutinous attempts, but 
 with no serious effects, I am very glad to say. 
 
604 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 to take in Bengal. Major K Lad made a mistake as T feared ; 
 
 and accordingly tlio men divided the loads, declaring tlicy 
 would take them in no other way, and I liad to comply as I had 
 no time to loso, cost what it might to take the men, and then the 
 brutes grumbling even at half-loads. I and the things have 
 been trundled along at fearful expense to a poor traveller. 
 
 At six this morning I met my relay of Decsa men with a note 
 
 from Captain S (Major K 's friend), inviting me to 
 
 etop and breakfast v^-ith him, and also stay and dine if I could 
 remain so long, and hoping I would find my Coolies oil right. 
 I did not reach here, even with all these men, until past four 
 o'clock, and as the sun has been fearfully warm, I have had an 
 awful "grill." The cantonment is large, but a perfect bed of 
 Band, and the roads quite undrivable. There is a fine show of 
 trees. Captain Shaw was very polite. I spent several hours 
 with him, part, giving him information respecting the United 
 States, whither some of his young relatives are wending their 
 way. 
 
 Just as I started this afternoon, I found something had sprung 
 a leak, and in getting out, discovered the servant in putting in a 
 bottle of water, had not arranged the cork properly, and it had 
 come out, and I was pretty thoroughly soaked. 
 
 April bill, Meysaxa Buxgalo"W, 45 miles. — I started last 
 night at nine, and had much trouble with my men, who would 
 linger behind. I reached this place at eleven to-day and they at 
 two. The country now looks better cultivated and more popu- 
 lous, but the roads execrably bad. This morning I passed Sidh- 
 poor, a large town on a small river. At this place there is a 
 large village within a few hundred yards of the bungalow. The 
 latter is new, and has no accommodations, not even a chair or 
 table; however, I availed myself of the shelter of the verandah. 
 At half-past three I sent my servant and luggage on, and I fol- 
 lowed at five. 
 
 April (dill, Ahmedabad, 61 miles. — I reached here at twelve 
 
AHMEDABAD. 505 
 
 to-day, passing several large villages and one town v/itli walls 
 and temples. This is situated on a small river. Crossing over I 
 saw some pretty Ilindoo women getting water. After n>aching 
 the Saburmuttee river, I followed its bends for balf a mile, and 
 then crossed about a mile and a half above the cantonment. It 
 is generally very low, though now deep in spots ; when full, its 
 bed is 300 to 400 yards wide. The river curves towards the east 
 bank on which side are the cantonments and town. 
 
 I stopped at Lieutenant P 's bungalow, having a letter 
 
 to him from Captain S . I found him a very nice young 
 
 fellow. The doctor of P 's regiment tiffined with us. 
 
 P invited me to stay and accompan}^ him to a mess 
 
 dinner, to which he was invited, but I had to decline. There 
 are usually several regular regiments here, and one of irregular 
 cavalry called the Guzerat Horse. Asthecutwal had (luckily) 
 not laid my dak to Cambay, I engaged two Seagrams, a nice 
 covered vehicle on two wheels with springs (a Bombay contri- 
 vance), and arranged to have relays of bullocks on the road. The 
 cantonment covers considerable ground, though at present there 
 are not many soldiers here. The civil lines (quarters of the 
 civilians) are four miles distant, and nearer the town. 
 
 This city was the capital of the several Mahommedan kingdoms 
 that flourished in India at the time the reign of the Mogul Empe- 
 rors commenced, and was swallowed up by Baber's rapacious 
 famil}^, together with Beejapore, Ahmednuggur, Golconda, and 
 several others. There are many Mahommedan remains and ruins 
 around the city, which is six or seven miles in circuit. To-day 
 I began to feel the hot winds, which have now commenced to 
 blow. They prevail in this part of the season that precedes for 
 two months the munsoons, but with verv little of the force with 
 which they are felt at Benares, Allahabad, or Agra. 
 
 For some days past I have been fairly in the Bombay presi- 
 dency again, as I found to my annoyance, when I paid my 
 palanquin bearers, for during the several days since I left Mt. 
 Aboo, it has been costing me about seventy dollars a day. 
 
506 FEOM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 April 7ih, Cambay. — I started last night at six. "When I bade 
 
 P good-bje, he gave me a note to his father. The ride to 
 
 the town was along a pretty road. I was tired, and fell asleep 
 during the two hours' travel, and was awoke by the seagrams stop- 
 ping. Looking out of the window I saw a man opening a door at 
 the top of a flight of steps, and in a half stupid waking mood I 
 thought it was a temple they were stopping to see, I shouted to 
 go on, when in the glimmer of the light I saw a Parsee hat, which 
 brought me to a consciousness of its being a Parsee " grub " store, 
 where I wanted to stop for some preserved provisions, and very 
 luckily, or I should have had a disagTceable fast before reaching 
 Surat. The bazaars were lit up, and the sight curious. 
 
 I am very fond of passing through the bazaars at night. They 
 are a sight peculiarly Indian, and I always throw up the curtains to 
 see everything, and much to the people's amazement — an English- 
 man shuts up close, and sacrifices his curiosity to his dignity. 
 
 Just before daylight I reached Kaira, a moderate sized town, 
 where I changed bullocks, and half a mile outside at the junc- 
 tion of two small rivers, I came upon a group of men sitting on 
 the ground howling. Looking out to see the cause, I saw a 
 funeral pile just finished, and a body half covered with fuel^ 
 cattle excrement, straw, etc. I was very suspicious, there were two 
 figures, but I could not see distinctly. I asked the driver, who 
 said it was only the body of a man they were burning, and I had 
 to believe the wife was not there, which they do not like to avow 
 to Europeans, as there is a very severe penalty attached to those 
 who assist in it. I should have stopped to see, but just then they 
 lit the fire, and as I was so soon to leave the country I did not 
 desire to cultivate a taste for an auto-da-fe. The country now is 
 very much more thickly populated, and with superior cultivation, 
 hedges, trees, etc. 
 
 Half way to this place, I changed bullocks and reached here at 
 eio-ht this evening. I sent at once for a Parsee who I was told 
 arranged for boats. He came and said the tide was too low for 
 the boat to start before to-morrow night, which was pleasant 
 
THE GULF OF CAMBAY. 607 
 
 news to a man in the haste I am. As this is the season for send- 
 ing cotton to market, the prices are treble for the boats if you 
 take one entirely to yourself So I dismissed him until to-morrow. 
 To-night I have a famous large house, formerly a factory — now 
 the government bungalow. 
 
 April 8th. — This morning the sub-assistant surgeon stationed 
 here by government, a Mr. Summers, a well educated and very 
 nice fellow, a " country born," has arranged a boat to take me to 
 Surat where I will find a steamer, so I have been writing to Cap- 
 tain and Mrs. W , and Major A ; then at four I was 
 
 carried on board in a palanquin or palky, as they call them gene- 
 rally in India. My journey was over a wide expanse of mud 
 flats, sometimes fording drains which always gave me a fright, 
 lest I should be "spilt." The boat was aground high and dry, 
 a country boat, a patimar of about thirty tons. 
 
 The cabin was a very rough apology for one, but answered 
 my temporary purposes. A lot of Sepoys (deck passengers) and 
 I, formed the cargo (live stock). Cambay is a small town at the 
 head of the Gulf of that name, and important principally from 
 being the depot of the cotton crop in this part of the country, and 
 the port from which most of the ofiicers and their families em- 
 bark for Bombay, or land on their way up country. 
 
 Ajjril 9th, GuLF OF Cambay. — The boat was off at two this 
 morning, a light breeze all day, but a famous tide ; at ten we 
 passed Gogo. There is nothing to interest off board or on 
 board, except, perhaps, the curiosity of looking at the Sepoys 
 and their families — ugly women, and bright-eyed graceful little 
 " ebonies" — Pauls and Virginias perhaps, and about as free from 
 clothing. 
 
 April lOih, Indian Ocean.— We anchored at change of tide 
 last night, which here runs like a rapid current. We were off 
 again at two this morning, and rounded into the Taptee river. 
 
508 FROM "WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 We fortunately met the steamer coming down, a nice new one — 
 the Mountstuart Eljilunsione — named after the most popular Go- 
 vernor Bombay has ever had. I found only two cabin passen- 
 gers — an officer and his wife. As deck passengers, we had lots 
 of rich Parsee and Ilindoo bankers, and their families, returning 
 from a wedding at Surat. 
 
 The women and children were covered with gold and jewels, 
 and their noses hung with splendid pearls. The officer and I, after 
 valuing some of the jewelry on one or two, joined a fat, good-na- 
 tured old Parsee, and discussed the jewelry ; he complacently, or 
 perhaps with truth, said the jewelry of the Hindoos was hollow, 
 but theirs was solid. The Parsees are very extravagant and free 
 livers. One of the Parsee women was exceedingly pretty and fair, 
 her color the very lightest tinge of mulatto. 
 
 A^oril 11, Bombay. — I reached here this morning at half-past 
 eight, when I went to the Hope Hall Hotel, a very indifferent 
 affair, but the best here. I have an awfully hot room. At the 
 
 fort I found another letter of credit from Messrs. B & 
 
 Bros., of London, and a package with letters of introduction, 
 firman, etc., from the Sultan's Grand Vizier, to the Pashas of 
 Bagdad, Mosul, etc., besides the most friendly letter I've received 
 
 since I've been in India. It was from Major M , in his 
 
 usual warm-hearted style, and desiring me to send any of my 
 travelling friends to him, as he and his family would be most 
 happy to do all in their power to assist them in their journey, 
 and all sorts of other pleasant things. Of news, that Miss 
 
 M was engaged to my friend Captain M , whom I 
 
 left a sidling lover. 
 
 The weather is horribly hot here, and cholera jorevalent, I 
 
 presented my letter to Major P , who invited me to take 
 
 my quarters with him, as my banker had done before, but I de- 
 clined. He then invited me to dinner for Thursday, and said 
 that his family would be happy to see me whenever I could call. 
 
 April 12//i. — To the fort to-day. This afternoon writing let- 
 
THE KEACn AT BOMBAY. 509 
 
 ters, and packing up. This evening a drive, and to Mr. 
 
 G 's, mj bankers to dine. lie kept me until half-past 
 
 twelve, in giving him and some friends an account of my tour. 
 
 April 14, Good Fpjday. — Yesterday I received a note from 
 
 Major P , saying his daughter had a very dangerous attack 
 
 of cholera. So I've been to the fort and driving. To-day it has 
 been very hot; been to church, mailed my letters, and this after- 
 noon had my Cashmere scarfs, shawls, etc., well done up in oil- 
 cloth, and soldered up in tin boxes. 
 
 April 15. — I wrote a congratulatory letter to Major M •, 
 
 told him I had suspected there would be an engagement, and had 
 
 fallen so in love with Miss M I had not been able to do 
 
 anything since I left his house but think of her ; and she was 
 the most charming young lady I had met in India. Called to 
 
 see Major P , who said his daughter was better, and likely 
 
 to recover soon ; but her attack had been so severe her life was 
 despaired of, at one time. 
 
 Took my heavy "traps" on board the steamer for Poijit de 
 Galle, a nice new ship just from England, so has the recommenda- 
 tion at least of being new, though badly ventilated, as all their other 
 steamers used in these waters are, and which seem better calculated 
 for a Siberian winter, than the perpetual summer of these seas. 
 
 I drove to the Eeach, a pleasant drive on the high land, over- 
 looking the sea, where the fresh sea air sets them up after the 
 excessive heat of the day. Here congregate the highly paid 
 Bombay civilians ("awful swells" in all the pride and pomp of 
 their temporary rank). The officers and their families, the wealthy 
 Parsees, Hindoos, and Mussulmauns, with their highly bred Arab 
 steeds (for they proverbially drive the best), often three in a bug- 
 gy, and the syce riding behind with his flowing garments stream- 
 ing to the wind ; or else they are in the greater state of a barouche, 
 while the poorer and more humble clerks, ship-captains, and tra- 
 vellers, content themselves with ricketty and hired Seagrams, an 
 
610 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE, 
 
 apology for a liorse and patclied up harness. The Parsee ladies 
 always drive in close carriages. 
 
 I was much amused this evening by my servant, to whom I 
 had been giving a long list of instructions relative to the ship I 
 am to send him back to Calcutta in — a short voyage of about 
 twenty-five hundred miles. I have to send him home and 
 defray the expenses. Oh ! the miseries of us poor travellers ! 
 After he had written them down very carefully, like many others 
 in a higher sphere, he could not read a word of his own writing. 
 
 April 16th, Easter Sunday, at Sea. — The anniversary of 
 my departure from Kew York. I was off, on board the steamer, 
 early this morning. The harbor was looking lovely. I find 
 there are a number of wealthy Hindoos and Parsees on board, 
 going to Calcutta and China. I counted twenty-seveii of their 
 friends who came to bid them good-bye ; also a number of 
 English passengers, who savor very strongly of "Bow-bells." 
 There are no ladies, the only female passengers being the wife 
 of a wealthy Parsee, and a fat, dowdy Irishwoman, the wife of 
 a vulgar-looking country-born doctor. She has a squalling 
 baby, and equally obnoxious boy, who discourses sweet music 
 alternately on a drum and tamborine, to the annoyance of every 
 one. The parting of the man and wife was splendid ! such a 
 theatrical swing, hug and kiss, it was enough to almost make 
 the bachelors wish themselves married men, though I — should 
 have preferred a fairer face and lips for my kissing. 
 
 As we steamed out, I saw numerous iron and other clippers. 
 "What a scattering a Russian frigate would make ! We passed 
 many coasters, with their pointed, picturesque sails. It being 
 bright and clear, I have had the hills and beautiful views of the 
 coast in sight all day. 
 
 This evening I've been conversing with a Parsee, who has 
 given me an account of their flight from Persia, after its conquest 
 by the Mahommedans, and their settlement and oppressions in 
 India, under the native rulers. They worship the sun and fire, 
 

 \ \ l»-llil*«nit!;|3f^»!|:;||rl;::#^^^^^^^^ 
 
NARROW ESCAPE. 511 
 
 as representatives of the one Supreme Deitj. The sacred fire in 
 their temples is watched by priests, over whom there is a chief 
 or high priest. The fire is never allowed to go out, but is 
 replenished by the priests or worshippers, each of whom, as he 
 goes into the temple to pray, presents a piece of sandal- wood to 
 the priest, who places it on the fire. The priests are obliged to 
 pray five times in the twenty-four hours, viz. at sunrise, mid- 
 day, three o'clock, sunset, and at twelve at night. Their year 
 commences the 28th of September. Like every religious sect, 
 thev have a division. That in this sect, is about the commence- 
 ment of the year. One sect say, those flying from Persia lost a 
 month in their calculations. The Parsees only allow of one wife 
 at a time. Their marriages are "usually celebrated while they are 
 children. This man suggests that we should inveyit some general 
 religion, in which all could agree ! ! ! 
 
 April 19th. — Nothing yesterday or day before, except our first 
 officer had an attack of the cholera, and is convalescent. To-day 
 I sat next to an officer who has all one side of his forehead bare 
 of hair from a cockroach attack last night. Fine stern wind. 
 Last night a very large clipper ship crossed our track, and so 
 close, in luffing-up to avoid her, she carried away all our stud- 
 ding-sails ! We have just had a shower, and with the cool air 
 our energies are revived, and Parsees are floating about again, 
 luxuriating their beer, and we enjoying a sight of their cool, 
 fresh-looking, white robes. 
 
 We Anglo-Saxons are amusing ourselves in various ways — 
 reading, and a few around a ridiculous game of race-horse ; and 
 the little Foggarties with the drum, tamborine, and blubbering 
 accompaniments. An awful large shark was seen alongside. 
 The captain said, the largest he had ever seen. 
 
 April 20. — Point de Galle, Ceylon. — We came near being 
 ashore on the rocks; some fellow last night stupidly laid a 
 hammer by the side of the compass. We have had to have our 
 luggage examined — quite a novelty in this part of the world. 
 
512 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 Mr. P (ca Bengal civilian of high rank) and I, paired off 
 
 to the hotel. The small-pox is horribly prevalent here ; every 
 other house has it marked on the door. I've just discovered, 
 my Calcutta servant, not satisfied with my giving him more 
 luggage than I brought away, broke open my trunk and stole 
 twenty-two sovereigns. The house is thronged with returning 
 Australians, who keep the hall full of natives all da}', chafiering 
 for their wares. This evening I've been on the ramparts with 
 Mr. P , discussing Indian affairs. 
 
 April 2od. — To-day church. "We have had several excite- 
 ments — three different sets of passengers watching for steamers, 
 and only two kinds arrived. My steamer is in at last. 
 
 April 25th. — I find I am to enjoy the luxury of a twelve hy 
 twelve cabin with seven others!! However, I've been at sea 43 
 times, so I'll try and endure the misery. Such a Babel I've 
 never seen. My box amused the passengers, and me too when 
 I thought of it, as it is to go on in the steamer to England and 
 be reshipped to America — but in the usual way to prevent its 
 being landed somewhere else, I put England on it, quite forget- 
 ting what an odd preface my own name made to it. 
 
 April 26 and 27th, At Sea. — Oh, such a ship! Seven meals 
 a day in the saloon, which is cabin and everything else. There 
 are over one hundred sick, hypochondriac, or well people, sixty- 
 seven children, and nurses to match. The seats covered with jam, 
 and such a rout as these brats make, we have every variety of 
 queer people, an archdeacon from Calcutta, Bengal pilots in uni- 
 form. Queen's and Company's officers, a variety of women, only 
 three or four of whom I will honor with the ajopellation of 
 ladies.* 
 
 * Col. Neill, lately General, the same who has distinguished himself so much 
 during the recent mutinies, and died before LucknoAv — was among the few 
 delightful people on board. He was returning to England to recruit his health 
 after his severe and distinguished services in Burmah. 
 
THE MAURITIUS. 513 
 
 April 28th and 29tli. — Yesterday the usual monotonies ; to-day 
 a sudden squall came up, and as I witli some otlier men were 
 rushing off the poop deck to avoid the rain, my foot slipped back 
 on the brass step, and I shot off head foremost down on the deck, 
 just missing the carronade — but a plunge of sixteen feet f I landed 
 on my forehead and nose — I saw a few stars, and then forgot 
 everything for a minute or two — came to, picked myself up, when 
 the passengers and doctor helped me down to his cabin, where he 
 patched me up, and I look as I had been enjoying a " scrimmage." 
 
 IfaT/ 7th, Port St. Louis, Mauritius. — My face is nearly 
 well, and it is almost worth while to be an invalid to have so 
 much sympathy. Every lady on board has been inquiring of me 
 daily about my face, and in this way I have become acquainted 
 with all the nicest in the ship. 
 
 This morning at daylight we entered this harbor. It is a pretty 
 little affair formed by a large breakwater and a small island on 
 the one side, and the mainland on the other. The town is 
 built in the hollow or base of a mountain range that rises almost 
 from the water's edge, — the highest of which is called Pierre de 
 Botte, from a Dutch colonel who lost his life while descending it. 
 On the summit is an immense stone, nearly or quite separated 
 from the rock which supports it. The mountains are very pictu- 
 resque in their rough, jagged appearance, and dark green sides, 
 down which I see small silvery streams coursing, while over their 
 crests dark clouds continually float. 
 
 There are three forts at or near the entrance of the harbor. 
 By our side lies a 44-gun French frigate awaiting orders. Nearly 
 every one has hurried on shore. I shall wait until to-morrow. 
 Among those gone, is a very nice young Londoner, an inmate of 
 the " omnibus " as we term our cabin, who went on to China last 
 summer for business ; the climate not agreeing with him he has 
 had to return home, whither he is now bound. lie has gone 
 ashore to see two of his brothers whom he has not seen since he 
 was eight years old 1 
 
 33 
 
514 FROM AYALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 I see among the flags the " stars and stripes," — ever a welcome 
 sight to an American away from home. It is a Boston barque, 
 
 belonging to my friend T , whom I left in Calcutta. There 
 
 are numerous ships in the harbor. They and others bring coal, 
 and take sugar in return. Forty thousand tons are annually 
 exported from the island. 
 
 This afternoon I went ashore for a walk, accompanied by Cap- 
 tain and Mrs. H . He is a queer old fellow, and been all 
 
 his life in the Queen's service in various parts of the world. We 
 got caught in a shower, and taking refuge in the hotel, met most 
 of our passengers. Here we got some delicious French coffee — 
 a luxury well appreciated after the beastly trash we have had on 
 board. We saw the Governor's house — a curious affair — the front 
 forming a hollow square open towards the street. The house 
 seems to be all windows and piazzas. 
 
 May 8th. — This morning we saw a lovely sunrise while 
 visiting the fish market, which is celebrated for the beauty and 
 variety of its fish, as we found — a most queer, odd-looking set of 
 salt-water denizens. Then as being the sole Frenchman in the 
 party, I was called upon to order a nice French breakfast — the only 
 
 really nice one I've had since leaving Major A 's at Mount 
 
 Aboo. We then drove to Pampelouse, the graves of Paul and 
 Virginia I From the grave of the latter, I got a rose-bud. There 
 are two brick graves here which are called those of Paul and 
 Virginia, to attract the sentimental and would-be-sentimental. 
 
 We drove to the Botanical Gardens, a beautiful drive of seven 
 miles from the city, where there is a fine view of the mountains 
 back of the town and of the harbor. This afternoon the French 
 frigate fired a salute in honor of the Military Governor of the 
 island, who is to dine on board. 
 
 And now, as I am about bidding farewell to India, I will 
 make a few general remarks about the people and country where 
 I have spent so many happy months. 
 
GENER,A.L REMARKS ON INDIA. 515 
 
 I have spoken earnestly of the American missionaries in their 
 various relations, but not more so than I felt was due to them for 
 their labors, and the spirit with which they have entered into 
 and are carrying out the objects of a most worthy cause, the 
 labors and results of which I saw and heard wherever I wan- 
 dered in India, — labors which, if they draw forth the admiration 
 of the English people in the country, and their subscriptions too, 
 in preference to gi\ang them to be applied by their own country- 
 people, may certainly claim the praise, highest regard, and 
 pride of an American who has seen many of the results of their 
 labors, besides having " eaten of their salt." 
 
 Of the English, and the East India Government, I have also 
 spoken warmly, but not more so than an unbiassed judg- 
 ment and candor would necessarily dictate, after all they have 
 done has been seen, and with a knowledge of all the obstacles 
 they had to overcome, as I have seen, known, and viewed with 
 wonder and amazement. Of the English in India, I've enjoyed 
 their hospitalities a year and a half in every part of the country 
 in my wanderings, which I have been repeatedly told were more 
 general than had ever been made by any one man before in 
 India. I was not limited by time or money; many see parts more 
 thoroughly, but not the whole country. Every Englishman 
 feels as if exiled to India, and is too anxious to get out to travel 
 when he gets leave ; and travellers for pleasure, either spend 
 their time in three or four places, or are in such a hurry, they 
 spend only two or three months in hasty travel, and get 
 their information entirely from the eyes and knowledge of others 
 lohen ihey get it there, or from books on their return, when they 
 have had no opportunities to compare the accounts with their 
 own observations. Or, as has been latterly the case in England, 
 they are political partizans who have gone out for political 
 capital, to overturn or thwart the India Company's Govern- 
 ment — among them several scions of nobilitj'-, whose names I 
 could mention, and who, from their very birth and blood, should 
 have been above such deeds. These constantly associated with 
 
516 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 natives (Parsees or Indians), wlio are naturally discontented with. 
 any but their own iniquitous form of government, where every 
 debasing quality, or crime, is not only practised, but considered 
 creditable and honorable if successful. 
 
 Of the English people, for the most part they are endeavoring 
 to improve the condition of the country, for the prosperity of 
 both the natives and country. Justice is administered faithfully 
 in their courts ; and with the free press of India, if there should 
 be injustice, or any misconduct on the part of officials, they 
 are freely spoken of, and through them the matter and the man 
 are brought to the knowledge of government, if by chance it 
 should not have been brought in any other way, and then the 
 official would be dismissed. So that the officials, even working 
 for their own interests and necessity, would be careful of those 
 entrusted to them. 
 
 There may be mal-administration of justice, but this is very 
 rare ; and it is no real cause of complaint against the entire Com- 
 pany that one official in a thousand should misconduct himself; 
 we see that full as often in Eng-land and America; and on the 
 same ground, it would be a just cause of complaint against 
 either of these admirable governments. 
 
 The charge of torture is another of the absurdities about 
 which there is a great cry. Every man who really knows about 
 India, must know it would be impossible to employ Europeans 
 in every department from the great expense, and so the govern- 
 ment is obliged to use natives in the lower offices, who, taking 
 advantage of their power and position, and for their own ends, 
 do doubtless inflict torture, but without the knowledge of the 
 English officials — sometimes for extortion, and sometimes to save 
 themselves trouble, because the natives never will pay willingly, 
 even when abundantly able, for they have never been accus- 
 tomed to pay except by force. If they had done so, they would 
 have been obliged to pay twice. 
 
 In all villanies, they are quite the equals of those illustrious 
 in the records of our police courts for forgeries, counterfeiting 
 
SkL'tclii'il lij' Uie Author. 
 
 See page 
 
 I'l;i;i'AU.\II(>N F(iU A SUTTEE. BENGAL 
 
THE BOARD OF CONTROL, 517 
 
 the writing, seals, and old documents, staining and marking the 
 paper with all the necessary proficiency. 
 
 The great defect of the government appears to be in the ma- 
 nagement in England, arising in the Board of Control, which was 
 formed in 178-i by Mr. Pitt, to control (as its name implies) the 
 growing Company. From a jealous, envious desire of dabbling 
 in what they considered a chance to glory, or profit, on other 
 people's shoulders, and that jealousy continuing, they have ma- 
 naged through the carelessness, or stupidity of the Board of Con- 
 trol, and the various restrictive " acts," to get the Company into 
 such a condition, that, aided by the information of the several 
 envoys of dirty work to India, who have contrived to get together 
 garbled stories of torture. Company's misrule, etc., that when 
 Lord Palmerston brought forward the bill for taking the ma- 
 nagement of matters into their own hands, it was stated that with 
 his happiness on all occasions, he could literally say nothing 
 in favor of the bill ; and yet the country had been so prepared 
 beforehand by the prejudice and clamor that they voted for 
 the bill. The Board were not to meddle with the commercial 
 affairs of the Company, but to " check, superintend, and control 
 all acts, operations, and concerns, which in any wise related to 
 the civil and military government of the territories or posses- 
 sions of the United Company in the East Indies." Thus the real 
 governing power was the Board of Control, composed of men 
 who were, for the most part, or perhaps entirely, ignorant of 
 India, and what was required for her interests. Thus, besides 
 entailing on the Company an enormous expense for salaries, 
 ofl&cers, etc., they have the appointing and ordering of all 
 things, — the Governors-General, Governors, and Commanders-in- 
 Chiefs of the Presidencies, and in the country. Although there is 
 a Court of Directors, who are composed mostly, or entirely, of 
 those who have served in India, they are qiiite subordinate to tJie 
 Board of Control, upon whom should rest all the real mismanage- 
 ment of India. 
 
 It was at their suggestion the Afghan war, and Scinde con- 
 
518 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 quest were made ; and it is to tliem also, that the dehays of the 
 construction of railwa3's, and many other measures for the 
 improvement of India, are attributable. Instead of a confidence 
 in the rulers they appoint, and allowing them to decide the 
 necessity of measures, they require such a mass of correspon- 
 dence, that things are really in the hands of their official clerks 
 in London, who sift out or not, as they choose, the various 
 requisitions from the voluminous reports which are demanded by 
 "act," to be furnished for the Board of Control in England, 
 monthly or quarterly. This costs £150,000 or $750,000, for 
 writing and publishing; and of matter, 400 folio volumes of 
 500 pages each, annually ! 
 
 Who could be supposed to peruse, or even overlook such a 
 mass of reading matter with an idea of knowing anything about it ? 
 These people can know nothing of the country, its resources, its 
 wants, taxes, administration of justice, or regulation of the armies. 
 
 The Governor-Generals are for the most part good, though 
 usually appointed chiefly from political reasons or influence at 
 home. The Commanders-in-Chief, always from influence, often 
 unjustly, and without competence or experience, as the blunders 
 and disasters in the first Burmese, Sikh, and other campaigns, will 
 testify ; and yet they are so disguised by the published reports, 
 to keep up the prestige of the invincibility of the Company with 
 the natives, that I have been repeatedly told by the officers who 
 were engaged in these campaigns I have mentioned, that they 
 could scarcely recognise the very battles they had personally 
 been engaged in. 
 
 These blunders in the last, or Punjaub campaign, were the 
 cause of Cashmere being sold to Goolaub Singh, — a slavery far 
 worse than the much sympathized slavery in the United States, 
 over which the English so feelingly lament, for in Cashmere it is 
 more cruel, and it is a wholesale slavery — a whole nation at a 
 blow ! which would have increased the prosperity of the people 
 and the revenues, and brought into India the commerce of all 
 central Asia. 
 
THE SEPOYS. 619 
 
 The Indian troops have always done good service, and fought 
 well when well led on, as they have been ; for British "pluck" 
 is proverbial, and no one need be prouder of it than an Ameri- 
 can — for we are all of the same blood, descending from the 
 conquerors or conquered at Hastings, — a reputation for obsti- 
 nate courage well sustained by their vast family, who with the 
 same boldness and daring, are the civilizing pioneers of the 
 world. 
 
 The Bombay and Madras troops have perhaps done the most 
 fighting of any in the three Presidencies, and make the most 
 orderly and effective soldiers from the way they are enlisted 
 from all classes. They are probably the best drilled, especially 
 those in the Bombay Presidency. The Bengalese are generally 
 the largest men ; the Bombay next, and the Madras last. But 
 it is the mental material, and discipline, not the size or strength of 
 the men, that is of the most use in battle, and the Bengalese are 
 the most unserviceable of any of the troops in the three Presi- 
 dencies, from their insubordination, and refusal to perform all the 
 necessary duties of a soldier. 
 
 This insubordination, which has been allowed, and almost encou- 
 raged, together with the continued manner of enlisting, has doubt- 
 less been the cause of the recent horrible mutinies, and the 
 cartridge that came just as the mutinous spirit had reached a cul- 
 minating point, served as a good cause; and from the gene- 
 rally quiet submission of the natives, it took the rulers with an 
 almost paralyzing surprise. For many years past the tone of 
 morality, or at least the outward show of it, has been greater 
 than formerly, when very few of the officers who came to 
 India were married, and then they associated more with the 
 natives, and either married native wives, or had native mis- 
 tresses, and in that way heard and saw more of the native 
 proceedings, which now they would rarely hear, or see from the 
 slight intercourse that exists between them. However, the 
 mutiny is in a fair way to be soon quelled, and the English 
 Government has assumed the charge. We shall doubtless see the won- 
 
520 FROM "WALL STEEET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 derful success of the brilliant scheme. Sir Charles Napier had a 
 difficulty with Lord Dalhousie about the Bengalese troops, and 
 being backed up by the Duke of Wellington, who gave his 
 decision more as a pure judgment on military authority and 
 strict discipline, than with a liberal view of the politic course Sir 
 Charles Napier felt obliged to adopt to prevent a mutiny, even as 
 long ago as '49 or '50 with the same troops. Sir Charles finding 
 them mutinously disposed, he yielded to them temjDorarily, to 
 prevent the mutinous spirit spreading, using his experience with 
 these troops, and the judgment of an old campaigner. 
 
 Lord Dalhousie, a comparatively young man, took advantage 
 of this opportunity to bring himself more prominently before 
 the world, by a public censure of the gallant hero of Scinde 
 for what he, an inexperienced man, fifteen hundred miles from the 
 spot, deemed a very had precedent. 
 
 In speaking of the Bengal troops, I spoke merely of Bengalese 
 and soldiers from Oude, and neither of the Sikhs nor Goorkas, 
 who are admirable soldiers in every respect — brave, obedient, 
 willing, good workers and fighters, and without exception, 
 I believe, the most faithful and reliable troops of the Company 
 during all the late mutiny. 
 
 The Indian Government in endeavoring to benefit India, have, 
 by reducing the taxes, and from that reduction of taxes, expended 
 so much money in India, improving it by canals and roads, that 
 they have almost annually brought themselves in debt to England, 
 although the income of the canals and increased revenue may 
 eventually pay off the debt. The two Jumna canals have cost 
 £140,000, or $700,000. They bring in a revenue of £45,000, 
 or $225,000 ; and this country supports double the population of 
 that not thus irrigated. About £600,000— $3,000,000— have 
 been expended on canals in the North-west Provinces during 
 thirty-five years, and all have given very large revenues. The 
 great Ganges Canal, lately finished at an expense of about 
 £1,300,000, or $6,500,000, will yield a revenue of £400,000, or 
 $2j0OO,<3OO, besides irrigating 900 miles of heretofore almost use- 
 
RED-TAPE GOVERNMENT. 521 
 
 less land, now rendered fertile fields, and sustaining a large 
 population tliat was formerly subject to dreadful famines. 
 
 In the Madras Presidency large sums have also been spent for 
 works of irrigation, and in rendering the rivers navigable. Irri- 
 gation has long been understood, and was practised in India as 
 early as 1350. The Emperor Feroze constructed a canal 200 
 miles in length, extending from the mountains to the neighbor- 
 hood of Delhi. Centuries after, Ackbar and Shah Jehan fol- 
 lowed his example. 
 
 Much of the expense of the Indian Government might be 
 decreased by dispensing with unnecessary officers — &c., the Board 
 of Control and its demand for voluminous reports, the councils 
 of Bombay and Madras, and reducing the Supreme CouncO. 
 at Calcutta to three, a civil, military, and law Councillor, and 
 dispensing with the Commander-in-Chief as a member, for he 
 never attends, but by this has his pay (a perquisite) of 
 £10,000, in addition to his other enormous emoluments. 
 
 The country would be much better managed if all the officials 
 in India, civil and military, who have the highest commands, 
 were officers of the Company ; they would then understand the 
 country and the people, and not waste their time in counteracting 
 the effijct of their own blunders, 
 
 India should be governed by a people whose experience 
 grows, and keeps pace with the country. India in this way, 
 would increase almost as fast as the United States, if not fettered 
 by the slow red-tape movements of a people who know of no 
 change that is not so gradual, it is barely perceptible until a cen- 
 tury has rolled by. Why ; in thirty years the kingdoms of Ajmere, 
 Baroda, Ahmedabad, Surat, portions of Burmah, the Punjaub, 
 and Scinde have been annexed — the Punjaub and Scinde 
 empires in themselves ! 
 
 The races of India are one of its singular features ; and besides 
 the diffiirent races, they are often diversified by most fanatically 
 opposed religions. The people are of every hue, form, and faith, 
 from the huge Patau or Beloochi, to the diminutive native of 
 
522 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 Malabar, or the short but active Goorka. There are Todawars, 
 who live on the trees, feeding on reptiles and vermin, more filthy 
 in their habits, and as mean in their intellects, as the wild beasts 
 around them. 
 
 The Eajpoots, whose sole business is war and plunder. The 
 learned Bralimin, calculating eclipses, and indulging in huge 
 astronomical observatories. The swarthy Arab, with the other 
 fanatic Mahoramedans, and the rigid Parsee. Some of these 
 scarce differing from the English in complexion, while others 
 may vie with the Ethiopian in blackness. 
 
 All these nations number between one and two hundred mil- 
 lions. Nature, by wars, famines, or diseases, that have swept 
 off hundreds of thousands every few years, has tended much to 
 keep down the population. 
 
 India has been the birth-place of many of the most frightful 
 maladies — cholera, plague, etc. The crimes have almost rivalled 
 diseases in depopulation. Thuggery and infanticide — the extent 
 of both of which has only been known within comparatively a 
 few years, and now are almost put an end to by the severe 
 punishment that follows discovery. Thuggery is now known to 
 have existed for two thousand years ; the lives sacrificed by the 
 Thugs, in conformity with their religious views, may be estimated 
 by the million. Colonel Sleeraan, the late popular and distin- 
 guished Eesident at Lucknow, was one of the principal Indian 
 ofl&cials who have been so instrumental in putting this down. 
 Infanticide (of female children,) by hundreds of thousands, has 
 been going on for centuries, and it, with widow-burning, has 
 nearly ceased ; and the system of organized bands of plunderers, 
 who burn ships and rob houses, is nearly destroyed. 
 
 For precious stones India is famous, and the two largest dia- 
 monds in the world have both come from there. Jasper, or blood- 
 stone, agates, and cornelians, abound there. She is also famous 
 for her dye-stuffs, gums, and drugs. Her opium trade is 
 immense, and the revenue from it alone is about £4,500,000, or 
 near $22,000,000. 
 
MANUFACTURES OF INDIA. 523 
 
 Her manufactures are now going to decay, but they were once 
 the wonder of the world ; for it is supposed that the Eoman coins 
 so often found in India, and the mention of the material known 
 as the Dacca muslin, indicate, beyond doubt, that they were the 
 same wonderful tissues that adorned the noblest of the Eoman 
 beauties at the court of the Caesars. And even lately, some of 
 the Benares' fabrics were unrivalled in the Great Fair at London 
 in '51 ; and the Cashmere shawls are worn by the fairest forms 
 and beauties in the world. The filagree work of Cuttuck equals, 
 if not surpasses, that of Genoa. 
 
 India was not behind in the weapons of war. The Damask 
 sword blades of Googerat, of wootz steely is superior to anything 
 Europe can boast of, and deemed so excellent in England, that they 
 are used entirely for surgical instruments. Their cannon are 
 the wonder of all who have seen them. The celebrated ones 
 at Dacca, Moorshedabad, Agra, and Beejapore, were of fifteen, 
 eighteen, twenty-three, and thirty inches bore, weighing from 
 eleven to forty tons, and throwing shot from four hundred- 
 weight to a ton and a half. 
 
 Their ancient cities were commensurate with all else. Beeja- 
 pore contained a population of about three millions. Gow, the 
 former capital of Bengal, covered seventeen square miles, with 
 a population of over a million. Eajmahal, once the city of a 
 hundred kings, is at present a small village. Mandoo, the now 
 deserted capital of the Patau sovereigns of Malwa, is sur- 
 rounded by a wall twenty-eight miles in circuit; while the 
 dome of the Mausoleum of Mohammed Shah at Beejapore, is a 
 third larger than that of St. Paul's, London ; and the Taj Mahal 
 at Agra, the monument erected by Shah Jehan to his wife, is 
 unrivalled in the world for its elegance and beauty. 
 
 It has been suggested to me by some of my acquaintance, 
 that I should give a brief statement of the ordinary expense of 
 travelling in these various countries. This of course varies with 
 the style. Travelling in England, with moderate speed, in first- 
 
624 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 class rail-carriages, coaching, or occasionally posting, when in 
 out of the way places, always putting up at the best hotels in 
 London, with rooms at Long's and with meals there, or at the 
 clubs, costs about $9 or $10 per day. This is an average 
 expense for a gentleman to travel on, and live comfortably, 
 with a reasonable quantity of good wine for dinner. 
 
 On the continent, the same can be done including the living in 
 Paris, or any other capital for $6 per day, at the hotel or good 
 lodgings, and dining at the best restaurants. In Syria or on the 
 Nile, if travelling alone, the expense would be about $8 per day, 
 or if with one friend about $6 50, and two or three from $4 to $5. 
 Usually every one travels there with one or two friends, I always 
 did, except the last time — when I went to Palmyra. Then bej^'ond 
 Suez, the steamer charges are on an average £5 or $25 per day, 
 including wines, beers, etc., and the expense of the route known by 
 the distance, as these vessels never average (3ver 180 miles a day. 
 In fair weather, under the most advantageous circumstances 
 they reach nine, to nine and a half miles an hour, and I've had 
 an experience of eleven different steamers, and mostly their best. 
 
 In India, the expense varies with the mode of travel. In most 
 of the Bombay presidency, I travelled on horseback, with carts 
 for my men and luggage, that I might make an average of 
 twenty-five miles a day — and at every place of interest, stopping 
 from one to seven days. In Madras, you travel on the principal 
 routes in what are called bullock gharries, — vehicles on four 
 wheels drawn by bullocks, — who make an average of over four 
 miles an hour night and day. On the untravelled routes, it is by 
 Palanquin, or horseback. The difference of expense consists 
 more in the ground gone over, as it does in every place, than 
 in the mode of conveyance ; for going over only twenty-five a 
 day, would cost no more in a palanquin than on horse, but then 
 you lose the comfort of your servants. 
 
 I found this travel in India could be well done, comfortably, 
 and in a reasonable gentlemanly style, with, when I took horses 
 sometimes one, sometimes two, and always with from four to 
 
EXPENSES OF TRAVELLING. 525 
 
 seven men (who were necessary from tlie castes, and so not super- 
 flaities) besides the bullock carts, and their two drivers. I found 
 my expenses here, were about $11 per day, except in the 
 extreme north when I visited Cashmere ; where, owing to the 
 numerous and increased exchanges and credits, they were about 
 ten per cent, more ; or for two or three days when hurrying to 
 Bombay, and by mistake of a friend's order, I paid $70 per day. 
 
 In Java and the " Straits" they were about the same, except 
 posting in Java, which costs a dollar a mile in whichever direc- 
 tion going or returning. The expenses vary much with the 
 haste of travel, and the luxury. The same ground may be gone 
 over much more rapidly for the same expense, if less attention 
 is paid to the extra comforts. 
 
 Another matter is the exchange. The farther East, the greater 
 the rate of exchange, and bankers' commissions — usually they are 
 half per cent., sometimes one per cent., often in the East they are 
 two per cent. ; then, as you go into the interior of India, silver 
 being the only currency, you must buy drafts, hoondies (native 
 drafts), or take a credit, which are an additional expense, because 
 you must draw the extreme amount you may use, and perhaps more, 
 pay the exchange, and banker's commission, then the commission 
 on the up country credit, and a five or six per cent, exchange 
 there. The exchanges when I was at Bombay were 10 per cent., 
 the banker's commission 2 per cent, then my London banker's 
 commission, and another charge for the letter of credit, then the 
 exchange on New York, and another banker's commission there, 
 besides his charge for credit on the London banker. 
 
 The rates at Singapore and Java were 25 per cent., and then 
 the bankers' commission of one or two per cent., besides all 
 the others, by the time the draft was finally paid by my agent in 
 New York. 
 
 In China still -worse, being during the war, the exchange on 
 London was 33 per cent. ! In all these cases, I give my own 
 experience, travelling in a comfortable, gentlemanly way, neither 
 extravagant nor stinting myself; and as I have said before, these 
 
526 FROM WALL STREET TO CASHMERE. 
 
 may be lessened from 15 to 20 per cent, by reducing the comfort, 
 or be the same, if reducing the comfort and using more speed — for 
 if a man in England goes from London to Liverpool, or Edin- 
 burgh, or Paris, a twelve or fourteen hours' journey — the charges 
 are $13, $22, and $26 (I think) but if he stops in those places a 
 few days, it reduces the average to the sum named. All of these 
 expenses are purely for travelling, and those incident to travel ; 
 but they do not embrace clothes, or other purchases. 
 
 THE END. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Aaron's Toire, 88. 
 Abo (Finland), 29. 
 Aboo, Mt. 501. 
 Acre, 77. 
 
 Affecting sermon, 23. 
 AFGHAN'S, 435. 
 Agra Mail, 150. 
 Agra, 467. 
 Ahmedabad, 504. 
 
 AHilEDNUGGUR, 164. 
 
 Ajmere, 493. 
 
 Ajunta Caves, 162. 
 
 Akabaii, 85. 
 
 Alexandria, 130. 
 
 Allahabad, 333. 
 
 American enterprise, 261, 268. 
 
 American Ice, 145, 237, 256. 
 
 American Ships and Commerce, 252, 
 
 317, 335. 
 Ancient Cities, 523. 
 American Printing Presses, 238. 
 American Sailors, 246. 
 Annexations, 521. 
 Approach to Stockholm, 22, 
 Appointments, 518. 
 Arsenal, 233. 
 Army, 207, 228, 519. 
 A "Spill," 154. 
 Ascalon, 77. 
 Athens, 64. 
 Avalanche, 412. 
 Avalanche of good luck, 199. 
 Aurungabad, 160. 
 Aurdngzebe, 1.59. 
 Augsburg, 105. 
 
 Baalbec, 100. 
 Banca Tin, 277. 
 B.\ngalore, 218. 
 Barcelona, 100. 
 Barrackpore, 320. 
 Basq;:e Provinces, 102. 
 Bassein, 146. 
 Baths, 150. 
 
 Bachelor Accommodations, 230. 
 
 Belgaum, 187. 
 
 Begum Somroo, 353. 
 
 Beejapore and ruins, 177. 
 
 Benares, 329. 
 
 Benares College, 336. 
 
 Berlin, 106. 
 
 Beresford, 466. 
 
 Beauty, 417. 
 
 Beirut, 74, 100, 122, 130. 
 
 BllURTPORE, 476. 
 Bhuddists, 236. 
 
 " Confessions, 335. 
 Birthday, 438. 
 Birds' Nest Soup, 257. 
 Bombay, 132, 142, 508. 
 Bordeaux, 102. 
 Bookkeeping, 193. 
 Board of Control, 477. 
 Brahminism, 235. 
 "Breeze," 15, 
 Brotiier, Professional, 175. 
 Bucephalus, 443. 
 Buddhists. Priests, 243. 
 Bullock, Convoy of grain, 151. 
 Bungalows, 148. 
 Burgos, 102. 
 
 Cadet Review, 34. 
 Cairo, 79, 83. 
 C.\diz, 101. 
 Calcutta, 306. 
 Cana of Galilee, 99. 
 Cambay, 506. 
 Cannon, 523. 
 Cavalrj^, 173. 
 Calicut, 203. 
 Canals, 520. 
 Canvas back duck, 388. 
 Canton customs, 249. 
 Cashmere travel, 367. 
 Catamarans, 239. 
 Cattle trackers, 365. 
 Cawxpore, 341. 
 
528 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Cedars of Lebanon, 123. 
 Ceylon', 512. 
 Christiania, 16. 
 Chamber of deputies, 28. 
 Challenge Clipper, 252. 
 Chaxdexagore, 320. 
 Charging a mirror, 347. 
 Cheetore, 497. 
 Chartres, 103. 
 Chinese shop signs, 252. 
 
 " dinner, 256. 
 
 " muster of recruits, 267. 
 Choke, 347. 
 Cholera, 335. 
 Chuxar, 334. 
 Chilliaxwallah, 368. 
 "Chicky,"439. 
 Cockney on horse flesh, 221. 
 Cocoanut uses, 241. 
 "Colored Gent," 18. 
 Columbo, 241. 
 Cojijiodore Perry, 254. 
 Coxstaxtixople, 55, 110. 
 copexhagex, 13. 
 
 CORIXTH, 69. 
 
 Cordova, 101. 
 coxstaxce, 104. 
 Concert (native), 289. 
 Coup de soleil, 211, 375. 
 Cotton, 151. 
 
 Crews in Australia, 272, 
 Criminal court, 275. 
 Crossing ba3-onets, 207. 
 Croxstadt, 30. 
 Crow quill, 194. 
 Crimes, 522. 
 Crusty Frenchman, 262. 
 Custard apples, 334. 
 Currie breakfast, 279. 
 Cyprus, 74. 
 
 Dak travel, 321. 
 Dardaxelles, 60. 
 Damascus, 99, 122. 
 Daxube, 109. 
 Dacca Muslin, 523. 
 Dalecarlians, 23. 
 Delhi, 460. 
 Deesa, 503. 
 Deer-stalking, 400. 
 Deodars, 380. 
 Devotion, 156, 202, 333. 
 Dialects of Southern India, 198. 
 DlXAPORE, 326. 
 Diplomats, 31. 
 Dinner, 59tb mess, 268. 
 
 " with the Governor, 329. 
 
 " with a Bev, 113. 
 
 " party at Col. M 's, 229. 
 
 . Dinner, speech, 225. 
 Distinguished American, 331. 
 Dodge for a card, 275. 
 Dog-fancier, 262. 
 Doing John Company, 226. 
 
 DOWLATABAD FORTRESS, 159. 
 
 Dorian fruit, 275. 
 Dower, 366. 
 Dresden, 106. 
 Durbar, 337. 
 Dutch exquisites, 280. 
 
 Early sunrise, 17. 
 
 East India Company. 205. 
 
 Eighth wedding, 292. 
 
 Ejectment, 154. 
 
 Elarish, 78. 
 
 Elephanto caves, 136. 
 
 Elizavegrad, 54. 
 
 Elsinore, 15. 
 
 Ellora, 156. 
 
 Eloquence, 322. 
 
 Elphixstoxe Point, 170. 
 
 Energy of the Company, 207. 
 
 Enlisting troops, 350. 
 
 Escape Irom a blunder, 233. 
 
 Escorial, 102. 
 
 Etiquette, 223. 
 
 Executions in China, 255. 
 
 Exciting ride, 220. 
 
 Exclusiveness of the Cantonese, 253. 
 
 Expensive servant, 174. 
 
 Expense of travel, 523. 
 
 Falls of Trallhattan, 20. 
 
 Fandango, 198. 
 
 Famines, 522. 
 
 FOagree, 523. 
 
 Fishing, 395. 
 
 Floating Canton, 257. 
 
 Flower collection, 188. 
 
 Forced honors, 214. 
 
 Fording the Chrishna at midnight, 185. 
 
 Fort William, 310. 
 
 Fourth of July, 258. 
 
 Gaza "the Strong," 77. 
 Game at midnight, 186, 407. 
 Games, 226. 
 Ganges Canal, 455. 
 Geneva, 104. 
 Gentle hint, 190. 
 Geographical ofiBcer, 285. 
 Getting back caste, 271. 
 Ghauts, 333. 
 Ghazepore, 328. 
 Gibson's aflair, 283. 
 GiUey, the courier, 17. 
 GOGO, 139, 141. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 529 
 
 Goth A Caxal, 20. 
 gottenburg, 19. 
 Gibraltar, 101. 
 Government extortion, 284. 
 GR.iXADA, 101. 
 Grooming, 152. 
 GWALIOR, 482. 
 Gruntli, 3C7. 
 "Gummy Hogard," 366. 
 GussuppA Falls, 200. 
 Guide book to Gussuppa, 108. 
 G3-p3ies, 110. 
 
 Havelock, 137, 3.51. 
 Harris, Mr. 266. 
 Harlax, Gexeual, 446. 
 Heliopolis, 79. 
 Highlander, sentinel, 1G2. 
 Hindoo meals, 166. 
 HoxAN Teiiple, 254. 
 Hongs, 250. 
 HONGKONO, 246. 
 HoOGLEY, 305. 
 Hospitable officer, 222. 
 Hospitality, 158. 
 Hot wind, 150. 
 
 "Humbuggy, very much," 3S1 
 HuRDWAR, 454, 458. 
 Hussars, 15tb, 223, 226. 
 HussAX Abdul, 441. 
 Hydaspes, 382. 
 Hyder All 215. 
 
 Ice, 447. 
 
 Immense cannon. ISO. 
 
 Improvements under 
 
 ment, 520. 
 Inquisition, 192. 
 Insolence of the Chinese, 260. 
 Intelligible report, 190, 206. 
 Interpreters, 257. 
 Iron Mixes. Daxamora, 26. 
 Irox "Works, Motala, 22. 
 Ismael, 110. 
 
 Jaffa, 77. 
 
 Jaix Temples. 141, 501. 
 Japanese customs, 244. 
 Java, 296. 
 Jerusalem, 95. 
 Jypore, 491. 
 
 Karlee Caves, 168. 
 Kashmir, 385. 
 Khyber Pass, 435. 
 KUling beef. 394. 
 Kin-kob, 336. 
 Kreis, 2S2. 
 Ktlas Temple, 157. 
 
 present govern- 
 
 Lahore, 361. 
 
 Large Army on Small Scale, 215. 
 
 Laodiaxa, 357. 
 
 " Lambing " the Butler, 380. 
 
 Ladies in India, 430, 488. 
 
 Leopard, 404. 
 
 Leipsic, 106. 
 
 Letters of Introduction, 137, 145, 361, 
 
 394. 
 Lesson in Obedience, 169. 
 LiXTZ, 108. 
 
 Liver Complaint, 226, 317. 
 Lobau, 108. 
 Loci Kedudox, 335. 
 Lotu-s, 246. 
 Lucerxe. 104. 
 LUCKNOW, 342. 
 
 Malaga, 101. 
 
 Madrid, 102. 
 
 Maiiableshwar, 169. 
 
 Mahommed Shah's Tomb. 178. 
 
 Maharajah, 389. 
 
 Mal-adrainistration, 
 
 Mangores (Bombay), 188, 
 
 Marriage, 416. 
 
 Mauritius, 513. 
 
 Macao, 261. 
 
 Mangustines, 245. 
 
 Maharajpore, 481. 
 
 Medical Practice, 1G5, 405. 
 
 Meerut, 352. 
 
 Mercenary Woman, 353. 
 
 Merzapore Merchants, 338. 
 
 Mess Dinners, 219. 
 
 Methodistic 208. 
 
 Midnight Alarm, 179. 
 
 Midnight Dinner, 176. 
 
 Mixde, 17. 
 
 MiSSIOXS IX IXDIA, 239. 
 
 MiSSiOXARiES, 57. 74, 9.3, 99, lOU, 122. 
 
 123, 132, 264, 319, 339, 356, 445, 472, 
 
 515. 
 Missionaries, Press of Americax, 145, 
 
 237, 341. 
 Monastic Establishments, 192. 
 Mordecai's Artillery, 238. 
 MouxT SiXAi, 84. 
 Moore, 411. 
 MouxT Carmen 77. 
 Moscow, 42. 
 
 Motala Irox "Works, 22. 
 Munchil Race, 210. 
 MuxiCH, 105. 
 MURILLAS, 102. 
 Musical Lieutenant, 225. 
 Mustering Ship's Crew, 269. 
 MuTixous Spirit, 350. 
 Mysore, 213. 
 
 34 
 
530 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Xablous, 98. 
 Xazaketii, 99. 
 
 X ANTES, 103. 
 
 Nassack, 154. 
 
 Narrow Escape, 18G. 
 
 Nadir Shah, 464. 
 
 Neill, 351, 512. 
 
 New Horse, 188. 
 
 Neueemburg, 105. 
 
 Notes to Settle Treaty, 260. 
 
 Obstinate Bullocks, 213. 
 Odessa, 54. 
 Odin's Horn, 27. 
 Oodypore, 498. 
 Ootacamund, 211. 
 Opium, 324, 522. 
 Opium Sliips, 249. 
 Orleans, 103. 
 OuDE, 349. 
 Outrageous Officials, 354. 
 
 Palaces at Stockholm, 24. 
 
 Palaces at St. Petersburg, 38. 
 
 Pau, 102. 
 
 Paris, 103. 
 
 Palmyra, 124. 
 
 Partizans, 206, 515. 
 
 Parker, Dr., Infirmary, 255. 
 
 PalebOthra, 328. 
 
 Patna, 324. 
 
 Paul and Virginia, 514. 
 
 Pegu Poneys, 209. 
 
 Penang, 303. 
 
 Perpignan, 100. 
 
 Petra, 88. 
 
 Pesth, 108. 
 
 Penitential Travel, 330. 
 
 Peshawur, 428. 
 
 Peteruoff, 33. 
 
 Pine Apples, 246. 
 
 PiRiEUS, 63. 
 
 Pirate Ofterings, 247. 
 
 Plouglis, 78, 92,' 166, 171. 
 
 Police, 207. 
 
 POONAH, 162. 
 
 Population, 257. 
 
 Portuguese Custom-liouse, 190. 
 
 Prague, 106. 
 
 Prayer, 416. 
 
 Precious Stones, 522. 
 
 Pultowa, 53. 
 
 Queer Customer, 249. 
 Quieting a Village Bully, 184. 
 Quizzical Gaze, 356. 
 
 Rain, 170. 
 Races, 521. 
 
 Rawul Pindee, 426. 
 
 Red Sea, 84. 
 
 Revel, 30. 
 
 Rhodes, 73. 
 
 Rochelle, 103. 
 
 rochefaveur, 100. 
 
 Rock Temples, 148, 157, 162, 168. 
 
 ROORKEE, 455. 
 
 Salsette, 148. 
 
 Sacred Tank, 358. 
 
 Santa Glaus, 401. 
 
 Saumur, 103. 
 
 Satara, 171. 
 
 ScuDDER, Dr. 238. 
 
 Segur, 168. 
 
 Seven Churches, 113. 
 
 Service in Goa, 191. 
 
 Seringapatam, 215. 
 
 Services in India, 222. 
 
 Seven Pagodas, 234. 
 
 Shawls (Cashmere), 358. 392, 408, 414, 
 
 415. 
 Shooting, 395, 403. 
 SiDON, 76. 
 
 Sikh Campaign, 357. 
 Singapore, 299. 
 Sir Henry Lawrence, 351. 
 Sir Charles Napier, 463. 
 
 SiRDANA, 353. 
 
 Sir Henry Pottinger, 231. 
 
 SlWARGEE, 172. 
 Slavery, 432. 
 Smyrna, 63, 73, 121. 
 Snakes, 148, 197. 
 Snake no serpent, 200. 
 Solomon's Fountain, 76. 
 Speculative Yankee, 168. 
 Sports, 430, 317, 224. 
 Squatting at EUora, 156. 
 Stirrups, 291. 
 Stockholm, 23. 
 St. Petersburg, 31. 
 Subsoiling, 171. 
 SUMNAUT, 488. 
 Surat, 138. 
 Surveys, 261. 
 Superstition, 339, 417. 
 Sutteeism, 173. 
 SuTLE.i Campaign, 363. 
 Swordblades, 523. 
 
 SWEABOURG, 30. 
 
 Sympathetic Commissionaire, 23. 
 
 Tafal, or post, 229. 
 
 Taj, 489. 
 
 Telegraph, 452. 
 I Thibet, 415. 
 I Thebes (Egypt), 81. 
 
i:XDEX. 
 
 531 
 
 TnORWALDSEN, 14. 
 
 Thuggery, 365. 
 
 TiEEKlUS, 99. 
 
 Tiger-shooting, 163, 332. 
 
 Tribute to E. I. Company, 459. 
 
 Toledo, 102. 
 
 ToiiB OF Jeiiax Gum, 362. 
 
 Towers of Silexge, 135. 
 
 Transplanting trees, 3G4. 
 
 Trumbuc, 153. 
 
 Troops, 360. 
 
 Troy, 62. 
 
 Travellers' books, 515. 
 
 Torture, 516. 
 
 Tula, 52. 
 
 Typing-wang, 254. 
 
 Tyre, 76. 
 
 Umritzer, 358. 
 Umballa, 356. 
 '• Uncle Tom," 399, 416, 425. 
 Unfortunate passenger, 276. 
 Uninvited guest, 242. 
 Unpleasant ship, 241. 
 University (Upsal.\), 26. 
 Upsala, New, 26. 
 " Old, 26. 
 
 Unicorn, 410. 
 Useful Sivrars, 15. 
 
 Valencia, 101. 
 
 Vienna, 107. 
 
 Visit of Ceremony, 218. 
 
 Volcano, 285. 
 
 Voyage to Bombay, 131. 
 
 " Batavia, 270. 
 
 " Calicut, 202. 
 
 '• Calcutta, 304. 
 
 " China, 244. 
 
 " Wake," 15G. 
 "Watchmen, 169. 
 Wag-nac, 172. 
 Wanasapee, 280. 
 Warm weather, 247. 
 Waterloo Column, 279. 
 Wedding party, 183. 
 Wellington's Debut, 216. 
 Women Coolies, 196. 
 Wrongs avenged, 342. 
 
 Yankee Doodle, with variations. 21. 
 
 Yachts, 251. 
 
 Young America in Canton, 259. 
 
RARE BOOK 
 COLLECTION 
 
 THE LIBRARY OF THE 
 
 UNIVERSITY OF 
 
 NORTH CAROLINA 
 
 AT 
 
 CHAPEL HILL 
 
 Travel 
 
 G463 
 
 .165 
 
.it 
 
 '■'( 
 
 ■■'l 
 
 
 liHlli' 
 
 .: - ■; . j^;;.tjvuai.«.ij.,i;.ui 
 
 ,,:,,!