<^r?>u 
 
 A- •' 
 
JOURNAL 
 
 OF 
 
 TRAVELS AROUiND THE WORLD. 
 
 TWENTY-SEVEN THOUSAND FIVE HUNDRED 
 MILES OVER SEA AND LAND. 
 
 BY 
 
 G. E. WIl^AE^TS, 
 
 NEW YORK : 
 Printed foe the Author by D. Appleton & Co. 
 
 1877. 
 
COPYRIGHT BY 
 
 G. E. WINANTS, 
 
 1877. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 The following pages contain a simple narrative — 
 without pretense to literary elegance — of travels around 
 tlie world, whicli were full of interest and instruction to 
 me. I can but hope that my plain account of them will 
 be of equal interest to others, and have the satisfaction 
 of furnishing it for the perusal of such friends as may 
 desire to read it. 
 
 A journey around the world is a very diiferent un- 
 dertaking to-day from what it was when Columbus first 
 crossed the Atlantic. The vessels in which he made his 
 adventurous voyages are said to have been less than one 
 hundred tons' burden, but now some of our ocean-steam- 
 ers are of the capacity of five thousand tons. Before the 
 introduction of steam upon the sea, it took a sailing-ship 
 from thirty to forty days to cross the Atlantic, but now 
 the passage can be made in less than ten days, and the 
 time is reduced in the same proportion in the voyage 
 around the world. 
 
 G. E. WiNANTS. 
 
 New York, November 1, 1876. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 Preface . 
 
 PAGE 
 
 8 
 
 I. New York to Sax Fraxcisco 9 
 
 Albany — Niag-ara Falls — Detroit— Chicago — Omaha — Cheyenne — Laramie City 
 —The Plains— The Rocky Mountains— The Devil's Gate— Salt Lake City— 
 The Mormons— The Tabernacle — Brigham Young- The People — Cape Horn 
 — Union Pacific Kailroad — Sacramento. 
 
 II. Caliporxia 24 
 
 San Francisco- When settled— The Golden Gate— Oakland— Fruit— Tha Cli- 
 mate—The Seal-Kocks — Woodward Garden— Telegraph Hill. 
 
 III. Ox THE Pacific 31 
 
 The Steamship Alaska — Letters mailed— Dropping a Day — A Gale of Wind — 
 Whales — Native Boats. 
 
 IV. ExcuRSioxs IX Jai'ax 43 
 
 Yokohama- Teddo, or Tokio — Coolies— The Tycoon's Castle— Buddhist Tem- 
 ple — The Mikado- The Capital— The Shogun — Atangoreama- Stago Yama 
 — Praying to their Gods— A Pagoda — The Five Hundred Sages — Kamakura 
 — Hasemura— Tea-House — Enoshima — The Dragons — Katase— Fusi Yama 
 — Totsuka — The Execution-Ground — Seminary for Young Ladies — Mission- 
 ary Work. 
 
 V. Japax 57 
 
 The Territory. Population, and Government — Dwelling-Houses — The Daimios 
 —Ladles' Black Testh— Shaved Heads— Lacquer— The Arts — Costume. 
 
 VI. IxLAXD Sea of Jap.vx axd Yellow Sea of Chixa 63 
 
 Flying-Fish— Hiogo — Osaka— Beauties of the Sea— Shine Saka— Agricultural 
 Implements — Panoramic Yiew of Four Htmdred Miles — Nagasaki— Taka- 
 boko Island— Yang-tse-kiang Elver. 
 
 VII. Shaxghai to Hoxg-Koxg 69 
 
 Population, Industry, People, and Government— Manufactures — The Magnetic 
 
 Needle— The Art of Printing— Literature— Money — Shupping — Canals— Chi- 
 nese Village— Pagoda— On the Pacific— Catching Fish at Sea." 
 
 VIII. HoxG-KoxG 78 
 
 The Happy Valley — Victoria Park — Cemeteries — Dwellings— The Governor's 
 Palace— The City Hall— The Colonial Prison— Child-Stealing— Sail in the 
 Harbor. 
 
 IX. Caxtox axd its Sights 82 
 
 The Steamer Whifj Cloud— Fortifications— Whampoa— Native Boats— The 
 Pearl Paver— Population— The Walls of the City— Chinese Shops— Buddhist 
 Temples— Joss-House — Chinese Boat-Eesidences — Typhoons —Tea : how 
 grown and cui-ed. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTEE 
 
 X. 
 
 XL 
 
 XII. 
 
 XIII. 
 
 XIV 
 
 XV. 
 
 XVI. 
 
 XVII. 
 
 XVIII. 
 
 XIX. 
 
 XX. 
 
 XXI. 
 
 XXII. 
 
 rAsx 
 Eeligion of the Chinese 104 
 
 The State Religion — Confucianism and Buddhism — Ancestral Worship— Chris- 
 tianity in China— Idols — Priests. 
 
 Chinese Manners and Customs 127 
 
 A Chinaman's Suicide — Costume — The Compression of Ladies' Feet — CoflSns — 
 Eating — The Gates of Hell — "Weddings — Opium — Government. 
 
 Chinese Industry 143 
 
 Agriculture— Clans — Farmers — Farming Utensils— Keaping — Irrigation— Silk 
 — Embroidery — Cotton — Chinese Loom. 
 
 Hong-Kong to Ceylon. . 150 
 
 The Steamship Golconda — The China Sea— A Gale— Singapore: its Population 
 and Climate — Fruit-Trees — Vegetation — Birds — Monkeys— Costume — Wild 
 Game — Fish — Christian Missionary Work — Dwellings — Malacca Straits — 
 Penang — A Waterfall— Spice-Trees — Snake-Grass — Reptiles — Native Boats 
 — A State-Room filled with Water. 
 
 Ceylon 164 
 
 Point de Galle —Currency — Wild Beasts — Natives— Climate— Christian Mis- 
 sion Work— Oriental Spice-Trees — Native Costume — Cocoanut-Tree— Bread- 
 fruit — Jaca-fruit — Spice-Trees — Fish — Buddhist Temples — Priests— Idols — 
 Beggars — Money-Brokers — Cinnamon-Trees. 
 
 Ceylon to Calcutta 173 
 
 Bay of Bengal— Madras, India — The Ship anchors in the Hoogly River — Water- 
 Snakes— Tiger Island — Ex-King of Oude's Palace — Landing. 
 
 Calcutta 181 
 
 Population — Harbor — DwelUngs — Gardens — Oriental Trees — Native City — 
 City of Palaces— Streets— Coolies— Fort William— The Black Hole of Cal- 
 cutta — The Nabob — Serampore Christian Mission-Carey and Ward— College 
 of Fort William— The Zenana Mission— The Bishop's College— Asiatic So- 
 ciety—Government Houses. 
 
 Calcutta and its Sights 191 
 
 Kali Ghaut— The Seven Tanks-Reptiles— Wild Beasts — The Bird-of-Para- 
 di.se— A Fish-Pond— The Royal Botanical Garden— A . Mahogany-Grove— 
 The Banyan-Tree— The Garden of Eden— Burning Human Bodies— Amer- 
 ican Consul. 
 
 Government and Caste in India 196 
 
 Alexander the Great— His Flotilla— The Ganges River- The East India Com- 
 pany—The Viceroyalty— Form of Government— Heathen Gods— Supersti- 
 tion of Caste. 
 
 Customs and Manners of the Natives 208 
 
 The Women of India— Nose-Rings— Costume— Robbers— Pressing Troops- 
 Money-lending — Mode of Living. 
 
 Products of India 212 
 
 Agricultural Implements— Irrigation— Rice, Cotton, and Silk Culture— Cash- 
 mere Wool— Sugar— Tobacco— Indigo— Opium— Gold, Silver, and Precious 
 Stones— Cashmere Shawls— The Rainy Season — Thunder and Lightning. 
 
 Calcutta to Benares 218 
 
 The East India Railway— Bedding for the Journey— Poppy-Fields—The Jun- 
 gle—The Ganges— Mogul Seria — Bridge of Boats — Clark's Hotel. 
 
 Benares 221 
 
 Population— The Monkey Temple— Bull, Peacock, and Monkey Worship— 
 Buruiag the Dead— The Golden Temple— Sarnath— The Devil-Dance— The 
 Sankata Devil Temple— Snake-Charmers— A Wedding— A Funeral. 
 
■CONTENTS. 
 
 1 
 
 CHAPTER 
 
 XXIII. 
 
 XXIV. 
 
 XXV. 
 
 XXVI. 
 
 xxvn. 
 
 XXVIII. 
 
 XXIX. 
 
 XXX. 
 
 XXXI. 
 
 XXXII. 
 
 XXXIII. 
 
 XXXIV. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 LucKNOw AND Cawnpoee 241 
 
 Minarets — The King of Oude — Cawnpore— Cantonments— The Mutiny of 
 1S57— The Memorial Garden— The Well in which the Women and Children 
 perished. 
 
 AcxRA 250 
 
 The Gates— The Fortress— The Judgment Seat— The Hall of Audience— The 
 Pearl Mosque— The Taj Mahal— Tombs— The Grand Mosque— The Echo— 
 The Park— The Garden of Rest— The Prince of Wales— Elephants. 
 
 Delhi 260 
 
 An Excursion— Toogluckabad— Bullock-Carts— Fortification— The Palace and 
 Citadel— The ]\rusic-nall— The Peacock-Throne — The Mosque of Jumma 
 Musjid— Asoka's Pillar— Panthan Fort— The Kootub Minar— The Iron Pil- 
 lar-Rev. Dr. Smith— The Zenana Mission — Himalaya Mountains. 
 
 Allahabad 276 
 
 The Fortifications — The Ganges and Jumna Rivers— A Hindoo Fair— Con- 
 course of People — Idols— Christian Missionary Work— Bridge across the 
 Jumna River. 
 
 JUBBTJLPOEE TO BOMBAY 284 
 
 Tigers seen on the Road— Herds of Deer and Antelopes— Birds— A Mountain 
 on Fire — Jubbulpore — Precious Stones— The Prison- A Hindoo Temple — 
 Monkeys — The Ghauts— Mountain Scenery. 
 
 Bombay 291 
 
 Population — Costume— Mohammedan F.air — Elephanta Island — Malabar Hill — 
 Manner of disposing of the Dead — Parsees — Fu-e- Worshipers — Mission- 
 Work — A Wedding. 
 
 Bombay to Suez 299 
 
 The Steamship Erl-King — The Indian Ocean — Flying- Fish — Aden — Mocha — 
 The Red Sea — Mount Sinai— Egyptian Money. 
 
 Egypt 311 
 
 Suez — The Suez Canal — Ismailia — Sandy Desert — Beggars — Population — Cairo 
 —Government— Island of Rhoda— The Citadel— The River Nile— The Pyra- 
 mids—The Sphinx— Christian Missionary Work— Camels and Donkeys — 
 The Great Sahara Desert— Vegetation — Alexandria — Pompey's PUlar — Cleo- 
 patra's Needle. 
 
 Mediterranean Sea 330 
 
 The Island of Candia — Strait of Messina — Sicily — Volcano of Mount Etna — 
 Volcano of Stromboli, 
 
 Italy : Naples, Eome, Pisa, Genoa, Turin 334 
 
 Bay of Naples— Mode of Living — Dwellings — Volcano of Solfatara — The Mu- 
 seum — Mount Vesuvius — Pompeii — Rome— St. Peter's Church— The Colos- 
 seum—The Temple of Venus— The Roman Senate-Chamber— The Pantheon 
 — The Forum- The Vatican— The Mamertine Prison—Pisa — The Leaning 
 Tower— The Cathedral— Genoa — Christopher Columbus — San Lorenzo — 
 Turin — The King's Palace — Mont Cenis Tunnel. 
 
 Switzerland , 357 
 
 Geneva — Dwellings — Population — Language — Money — Mont Blanc — The 
 Protestant Cathedral — The Yachts and Steamers on the Lake. 
 
 France : Macon, Dijon, Paris, Havre 360 
 
 Paris — The Fashions — Population— Place de la Concorde — Colonne Vendome 
 —The Palais Royal— The Crystal Palace— The Siege of Paris— The Museum 
 — The Bois de Boulogne— The Council of Arbitration— The Fortifications— 
 The Tuileries— The Obelisk of Luxor. 
 
8 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER FAQX 
 
 XXXV. Englaistd : Lo^"DON, Liteepooi 369 
 
 The Great Metropolis — Buckingham Palace — St. Paul's Cathedral — Eev. Dr. 
 Spurgeon — Wax-Figures — Windsor— Sight-seeing in London — Westmin- 
 ster Abbey — Liverpool — Population — The Docks — Ship-building — The 
 Harbor— The Hotels. 
 
 XXXVI. Wales : Chestee, Bangor, Holyhead, Conway 382 
 
 The Castle of Chester — The City Walls— Surroundings— Bangor— Slate-Quar- 
 ries — Bethesda— Prospect Park — Old Protestant Cathedral — Market-Day 
 — Holyhead — The Harbor and Fortifications conabined — Birds' -Nests — 
 Girls and Boys —Conway— Conway Castle — The River. 
 
 XXXVII. Atlantic Ocean 389 
 
 The Steamship Italy— Sea-Sickness— Rough Weather — Arrival at Quaran- 
 tine—Home again. 
 
jour:nal of tbayels 
 
 Around the "World. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 ISTEW YORK TO SAJ^ FRAJSTCISCO. 
 
 Septemher 7, 1875. — Mrs. G. E. Win ants aucl I leave 
 Bergen Point, New Jersey, upon a tour around the world. 
 We take passage tbis afternoon on tlie steamer Chancel- 
 lor for New York ; at six o'clock we eml)ark upon the 
 steamer St. John, the Hudson Kiver night-boat for Al- 
 bany, en route for San Francisco, distance thirty-three 
 hundred miles ; fare by palace-cars one hundred and 
 thirty-six dollars apiece in gold. 
 
 September 8th. — Albany. We arrive here this morn- 
 ing at seven o'clock; take breakfast at the Delavan 
 House ; at 9 a. m. we resume the tour by the New York 
 Central Pailroad, arriving- at Niasrara Falls at 9 a. ji., 
 distance four hundi-ed and forty miles. Take rooms in 
 the Cataract Hotel ; board four dollars and a half per 
 day for each person. 
 
 September 9t?t. — Niagara Falls doubtless are to-day, 
 as centuries ago, ever charming and beautiful to behold, 
 
10 AROUND THE WO ELL. 
 
 and may justly be classed am 0112^ the great wonders of 
 the world. They are the pride of America; their grand 
 eur, magnitude, and magnificence, are w^ell known to all 
 the civilized world. Ever since the discovery of this 
 wonderful c.itai'act, millions of people have flocked thitlier 
 from all countries, to gaze with feelings of the deepest 
 solemnity on the tumultuous fall of waters, and to adore 
 the power and majesty of the Almighty as these are ex- 
 hibited and realized. The Great Lakes of North Amei*- 
 ica, namely, Superior, Michigan, Huron,, and Erie, ]:our 
 the flood of tht'ir accumnlated w'aters into Lake Ontario 
 through a channel of about thirty-six miles in length, 
 called the Niagara River, which is part of the bonud- 
 ary-line between Canada and the State of New York. 
 Twenty-two miles below its commencement at Lake Erie 
 are the famous Falls of Niagara. These Falls are di- 
 vided into two b\- Goat Island : the American Falls are jQ 
 nine hundred feet wide by one hundi-ed and sixty-fonr 
 feet high ; the Horseshoe, or Canadian Falls, are two thou- 
 sand feet wide, and one hundred and fifty-eight feet high. 
 It is said that the discovery of this stupendous waterfall 
 was first made by a white man, a French Jesuit mission- 
 ary, in the year 1678, There are tw^o bridges which 
 span the Niagara River: one, about two miles below the 
 Falls, used principally by railroad-cars and carriages; 
 and the other is but a few hundred yards below the 
 cataract, designed chiefly for foot-passengers and light 
 carriages. A large number of people, becoming too vent- 
 uresome, have lost their lives by being carried over the 
 Falls. Even to-day a gentleman lost his grasp of the 
 
I^EW YORK TO SAN FRANCISCO. \\ 
 
 bank, and was carried over by the riisbing waters, never 
 to rise again. This evening we leave Niagara by the 
 nine o'clock train en route for Chicago, distance about 
 five hundred and fifty miles. 
 
 September 10th. — We arrive at Detroit at 7 a.m., 
 where we stop for three hours and take breakfast. At 
 9 p. M. we arrive in the city of Chicago, and 23ut up at 
 the Sherman Hotel; board four dollars apiece per day. 
 
 September 11th. — We devote the time princij)ally in 
 looking over the city, sight-seeing. The burned district 
 has been built over by the construction of larger and 
 more substantial buildings of stone, in a more uniform 
 and elaborate style ; there is only a slight tracing of tlie 
 burned district visible to designate the large conflagra- 
 tion of 1871, which spread over two square miles of the 
 best section of the cit}^ 
 
 September 12t7i. — This being the Sabbath, we at- 
 tended the Presbyterian Church, two miles out from the 
 business part of the city. 
 
 September l^th. — This morning by the ten-o'clock train 
 we resume our tour en route for Omaha, distance five hun- 
 dred miles. At 1\ p. m. we arrive at Meudota, and take 
 dinner ; at 7 p. m. we take tea at Burlington, where we 
 cross the Mississippi River. 
 
 September IMh. — This morning at ten o'clock we ar- 
 rive at Council Bluffs, on the banks of the Missouri River, 
 where we stop about thirty minutes. After crossing the 
 bridge, on the opposite side of the river, we are in the 
 city of Omaha, where we make another stop. Omaha 
 contains a population of about eighteen thousand, and 
 
12 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 suddenly sprang into existence by tlie construction of 
 the Union Pacific Railroad. This road, with the Central 
 Pacific and other connecting links, reaching from the 
 Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean, is conceded to be the long- 
 est in the world. Though but little faith was at first felt 
 in the successful construction of this great railway, no 
 one at the present day can fail to appreciate the enter- 
 prise which charactei'ized the progress and final com])le- 
 tion of this road, and its immense value both to our own 
 people and the world at large. The first contract for 
 construction was made in the year 1863, and the road 
 was comj^leted in 1869 ; over it cars have since been 
 running regularly. This immense road is from Omaha 
 to San Francisco two thousand miles in length, and from 
 New York to Omaha thirteen hundred miles, makino; 
 together a continuous line of rail of thirty-three hundred 
 miles from New York to San Francisco, The completion 
 of the Union and Central Pacific Railroads, the great 
 highway of nations, has opened a new era in the passen- 
 ger-travel of the country. Crossing over the American 
 Continent by rail in seven days, from ocean to ocean, is 
 as a household word throughout the land. The steady 
 increase in the number of peoj^le going to and returning 
 from the great West enables us to form some idea of the 
 future mammoth proportions to which the 23assenger- 
 traffic will arrive. When I crossed over this road in 
 1869, the average was about twenty passengers per day, 
 and now it has increased to about one hundred and 
 twenty-five first-class travelers per day, besides the emi- 
 grants. The road has but few tunnels, and these pass 
 
NEW YORK TO SAy FBANCISCO. I3 
 
 tlirougli a soft species of rock or rotten-stone. The prin- 
 cipal part of the road runs over a plain as level as the 
 sea, except in crossing over the Sierra Nevadas and the 
 Black Hills of the Rocky Mountains, where we find a 
 heavy but gradual upgrade. The greatest elevation on 
 the Union Pacific is at Sherman, eight thousand two 
 hundred and forty-two feet, and was said to be the 
 greatest height that railroad - cars ever reached; but 
 there are higher points now reached by rail in South 
 America. The variegated peaks of the mountains are 
 covered with perpetual snow. The grade of the Central 
 Pacific as it winds around these high peaks is one hun- 
 dred and sixteen feet to the mile, the highest point be- 
 ing about seven thousand feet. As we approach the 
 summit of the Sierra Nevada, on our left the rugged 
 mountain-blufl:s rise in quick succession to a great height, 
 €ven above the clouds, while on the right the deep ravine 
 descends abruptly for over a thousand feet. This wild, 
 picturesque scene is most interesting, striking one with 
 awe and astonishment at the power of Him who modeled 
 the world, and made everything therein for the benefit 
 and enjoyment of man. 
 
 The surface of the country between the Black Hills 
 and the Bocky Mountains, and upon the Rattlesnake 
 Bano-e, is level for several hundred miles ; hence the road 
 has an easy grade, even up to the top of the mountains, 
 winding its way gently around the higher peaks. Tak- 
 ing the road altogether, it has not cost for grading, per 
 mile, more than half as much as our ordinary Eastern 
 and Southern roads. There are serious objections, how- 
 
14 AEOUNB THE WORLD. 
 
 ever, to the locality of the road, namely : if it liad been 
 constructed some tliree or four hundred miles farther 
 south, it \vx>uld have run throuoh a more fertile section 
 of country, and would have built up more rapidly towns 
 and cities, and also avoided the cold climate, as well as the 
 banks of snow, which are said to be piled up during the 
 lengthy winters like raountain-toj3S. The railroad com- 
 panies have made some provision against the heavy snow- 
 fall by constructing snow-sheds over the track, which 
 extend for many miles, and yet what has been done is 
 not sufficient to break off the heavy drifts which loom 
 up from forty to sixty feet high. In consequence of not 
 having any rainfall, during the summer and autumn 
 months on the mountains, for the distance of over a 
 thousand miles, there is not a spear of grass or green 
 herb to be seen, except at intervals along some small 
 brook in which the snow-water finds its way from off 
 the distant mountain-tops. 
 
 On leaving Omaha we stop for thirty minutes at Fre- 
 mont and take dinner. This is a small town containing 
 about three thousand inhabitants, and is said to be rap- 
 idly on the increase. At 6 p. m. we arrive at Grand 
 Island and take supper. This place, it is claimed, will 
 become an important railroad centre. It seems to have 
 a good supply of churches, schools, hotels, and stores. 
 
 September Ibtli. — This morning early, as we were 
 gliding over the plains, we saw in the distance a fine 
 herd of antelope. All through the day, at intervals, we 
 passed by numerous emigrant-wagons, loaded with men^ 
 women, and children, some drawn by oxen and some 
 
N'FW YOBK TO SAN FRANCISCO. 
 
 15 
 
 "by mules, dragging their w;iy through the ])rairies, some 
 going west, others going east. We stop at Sidney for 
 thirty minutes and take "breakfast. The Government 
 has established a military post at this station, and erected 
 extensive barracks and warehouses for the l)etter jirotec- 
 tion of the road. At one o'clock we stop at Cheyenne 
 
 CHEYENNE. 
 
 and dine. This town is located at the base of the Rocky 
 Mountains ; it contains a population of about four thou- 
 sand souls, and is the county-seat of Laramie County, and 
 the capital of Wyoming Territory. At one time Chey- 
 enne is said to have been infested with rouo-hs, o-am- 
 bling-hells, and dance-houses, and had frequent murders 
 by night and day; this lasted until the quiet and better 
 class of citizens took the law into their own hands and 
 
16 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 liung some of tlie desperate characters; others fled, for 
 fear of arrest, and now the town is in a flourishing con- 
 dition. We stop at Fort Laramie and take supper. 
 This fort was established in 1869, to protect the men 
 working on the railroad against the Indians, who made 
 several raids upon the road and killed many of the la- 
 borers. 
 
 Septemher l^tli. — This morning we breakfast at Green 
 Kiver. It is said that, in early times, an important trad- 
 ing-j)ost was located near tkis station, held l>y the Mor- 
 mons, who reaped a rich harvest of from five to twenty 
 dollars a team for crossing tkem over the river, accord- 
 ing as the owners were able to pay. We stop for thirty 
 minutes at Evanston and take dinner. Later in the day 
 we pass l^y the " One-Thousand-mile-Tree," called by 
 that name on account of its being one thousand miles 
 from Omaha. After leaving tbe big tree we soon pass 
 througk the Devil's Gate, and behold another wild 
 scene of Nature's works. At six o'clock we arrive in 
 Ogden, and after tea we take the cars by the brancli 
 road, wkicli is thirty-six and a half miles long, built l)y 
 the Mormons, and arrive in Salt Lake City at eight 
 o'clock. The fare on this branch line from Ogden and 
 return is five dollars. We put up in the Townsen Hotel ; 
 board four dollars per day in gold for each person. 
 
 September Vltli. — Salt Lake is situated on a broad 
 plateau, about twenty miles in width, bounded on two 
 sides bv a chain of hio'li mountains. This plain is 
 divided by a small river running directly through its 
 centre, called the Jordan, a beautiful stream, which in its 
 
NEW YORK TO SAN FRANCISCO. 17 
 
 general appearance resembles the river of the same name 
 in Palestine. The city proper is situated directly west 
 of and at the base of a chain of high mountains, which 
 loom up over eleven thousand feet, whose summit is 
 about ten miles distant, and is covered with perpetual 
 snow. The city is very prettily laid out with straight 
 streets one hundred and twenty-five feet in width, inter- 
 secting at right angles, with wide side\'S'allvS, and rows 
 of large ornamental shade-trees planted on each side. 
 The gutters in all the principal streets are filled with 
 streams of pui'e running water, conducted through canals 
 from the snowy mountains for the purpose of irrii[rating 
 the land ; and as the water leaves the gutters it finds its 
 way to and over the farming-lands in the rear of the city. 
 During the sununer and autumn months they have no 
 rainfall, and, if it were not for this system of irrigation, 
 the land would not produce croj^s. Where the lands 
 have l)een watered hj this artificial method, the croj)S 
 are all very heavy ; but, where the land has not been 
 watered, the soil is seemingly dead. Salt Lake City con- 
 tains about thirty thousand inhabitants, ])ut the entire 
 settlements of the Mormons in Utah, which extend up 
 and down the valleys for nearly four hundred miles, con- 
 tain in all over two hundred and fifty thousand souls, 
 and are rapidly increasing, for they are extending rail- 
 roads, and building up towns and cities, in every direc- 
 tion. 
 
 It was in the year 1847 that less than five hundred 
 Mormons, having traveled through a thousand miles of 
 an uninhabited Indian country, settled in the valley of 
 
18 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 Salt Lake. They were very poor, and it is probable that 
 tlie extent of tlie sufferings and sacrifices made hj the 
 Mormons to reacli this remote valley will never be known 
 but to tbose wbo endured tkem ; and since they have 
 been in tkis valley they have encountered many fearful 
 vicissitudes. In 1857 they were molested by the troops 
 of the United States Government on account of polyg- 
 
 SALT LAKE VALLEY. 
 
 amy; in order to defend themselves, they Ijuilt a rough 
 stone-wall round the city, but at length, finding that 
 they could not ward oft' the invading army, and before it 
 reached the city, they packed up their goods, taking their 
 women and children, and went down into the southern 
 part of Utah, where they remained until the following 
 spring. On their return they found that the army had 
 
liEW YORK TO SAN FRANCISCO. \^ 
 
 departed without doing any material damage to the city, 
 and left a large amount of stores, together with a great 
 niiml)er of wagons, which were afterward bought by the 
 Mormons for a merely nominal sum. Instead of this 
 invasion being a damage to the Mormons, in the end it 
 was of great benefit. It is reported that this movement 
 against tlie Mormons cost the United States Government 
 nearly three million dollars. When the city of Salt Lake 
 was first settled, the principal material used was sun- 
 dried brick, giving it in tliat respect the appearance of a 
 Spanisk town, but the better class of buildings is now 
 being constructed of put stone in the most modern style ; 
 otkers are built of wood. The great Tabernacle, which 
 is said to seat fourteen thousand people, is tke first ob- 
 ject for strangers to see. The building is oblong in 
 skape, having a lengtk of two kundred and fifty feet by 
 one hundred and fifty in Avidth. The roof is supported 
 by forty-six columns of cut sandstone ; from these stone 
 pillars tke roof springs, forming an unbroken arck, one 
 of tke largest self-sustaining roofs on tke continent. They 
 have also in course of erection a fine Mormon Temple of 
 cut stone, wkick, wken finisked, it is said will cost two 
 million dollars. President Young is now constructing a 
 kandsome palace, wkick will be one of tke finest frame 
 kouses in America. The Mormons also kave a tkeatre 
 wkick will seat some tkousands of people, and many 
 otker large buildings of a public ckaracter. 
 
 Tke peo|)le are governed by Pi'esident Young, wko is 
 assisted by tke twelve apostles. Tkeir form of govern- 
 ment is plain and simple, and seemingly works well. 
 
20 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 The people are said to be quiet and law-abiding. When 
 a person is arrested for a crime, he is immediately taken 
 before the provost-marshal and tried at once ; if found 
 guilty, a tine is inflicted ; if he is unable to pay, a ball 
 and chain are attached to his leg, and he is put at work 
 on the public streets to satisfy the penalty. The admin- 
 istration of government is conducted strictly upon the 
 principle of economy; and, instead of their municipal 
 tax, as in some other cities, being from four to five per 
 cent., it is less than one. 
 
 September I'Sth. — This forenoon we take a ride to the 
 warm sulphur springs, and also to the military encamp- 
 ment. Before leaving the city we called upon President 
 Young, who gave us a cordial reception. He is a large, 
 portly gentleman, of over sevent}^ years, but looks young 
 for that age. He was very pleasant, and conversed freely 
 upon the general topics of the day. 
 
 It is said that President Young has taken a prominent 
 part in all public improvements, in every plan calculated 
 to facilitate communication between the Territory and 
 the Eastern States, assisting in forming several express 
 companies and stage-lines. He built several hundred 
 miles of the Western Union Telegraph, graded one hun- 
 dred and fifty miles of the Union Pacific Railroad, and 
 has ever ofl:ered his assistance to every enterprise having 
 any bearing on the interest of Utah. He also used every 
 effort to push forward to an early completion the Utah 
 Central Railroad, of which he was the first president. 
 His great influence over his people is strongly illustrated 
 by the promptness with which they respond to his call 
 
^FW YORK TO SAN FEANCISCO. 21 
 
 in every emergency. If it were not for polygamy, wliicli 
 they claim to be the vital part of their religion, they 
 would be as fine a race as we have, for they are a sober, 
 cleanly, and hard-working peoj^le. 
 
 We take onr departure from Salt Lake City by the 
 three-o'clock train, and arrive at Ogden at five, where we 
 make a change of cars, and resume our tour en route for 
 San Francisco. 
 
 September' 19th. — Sabbath. This morning we break- 
 fast at Elko. A good meal can be had on any part of 
 the road for one dollar currency or seventy-five cents 
 coin ; the cars stop for thirty minutes at all the regular 
 eating-stations. We dine at Battle Mountain, and take 
 supper at Humboldt. This station is situated on the 
 edge of the great Nevada Desert, and it would be worth 
 the while of any tourist who wishes to examine the won- 
 ders of Nature to stop here and remain for a few days. 
 
 September ^QtJi. — This morning we pass what is called 
 Cape Horn, which is one of the wildest and grandest 
 scenes on the American Continent. The cars stopped 
 for twenty minutes to give time to the passengers to ex- 
 amine and gaze upon the wonderful works of Nature. 
 Timid people will draw back with a shudder, one look 
 into this fearful chasm being sufiicient to unsettle their 
 nerves. On our right the mountain-range towers up above 
 the clouds, while on the left is a ravine over a thousand 
 feet in depth. In a short time after leaving this scene 
 of natural beauty, we arrive at Colfax, where we stop 
 and take breakfast. All through this section can be seen 
 where the gold-diggers have been at work by the evidence 
 
22 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 of the soil liaviuo; been thrown over, and there are now 
 some engaged taking out the precious metal. We can 
 see occasionally small towns of huts or cabins inhabited 
 by those in search of gold, with their families, but we do 
 
 REMNANT or A TRIBE. 
 
 not see as many children running al)out the grounds as 
 in Salt Lake City. In a short time after leaving Colfax 
 we come to Sacramento, the capital of California. 
 
 Sacramento a few years ago was a small and un- 
 important liamlet, but it has emerged into a thriving, 
 bustling city, containing a population of twenty-five 
 thousand. The ground upon which the city is located is 
 low, and the younger town was swept away by the over- 
 flow of the river of the same name. To guard against a 
 recurrence of this evil, they raised the bed of the city 
 
NEW YORK TO SAN FRANCISCO. 23 
 
 above the liigliest kDOwn flood, and built a more sub- 
 stantial style of residences. We proceed on our way, and 
 dine at Latlirop. At half-past five o'clock we arrive in 
 the city of San Francisco, and take up quarters in the 
 Occidental Hotel ; board three dollars per day each in 
 gold. 
 
CHAPTEK II 
 
 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 September 'i\st. — Finally, liere we are, on the golden 
 shore of California. We have traveled over one of the 
 longest roads in the world, from the far East to the far 
 West ; from the Atlantic to the Pacific ; from where the 
 sun rises out of the waters to where it sets in the waters. 
 The city of San Francisco presents a picturesque and yet 
 broken appearance, owing to a portion being built on 
 the hills, which attain a considerable altitude. From 
 the tops of these hills a fine view of the town can be 
 obtained. The city proper is located upon a narro^w 
 peninsula, which separates the bay of San Francisco 
 from the Pacific Ocean. As the city continues to in- 
 crease in size it extends back from the bay, takes in and 
 covers over several high hills, among Avhich is Prospect 
 Hill, three hundred feet high ; E-ussian Hill, three hun- 
 dred and sixty feet ; Clay Hill, nearly four hundred feet ; 
 and Lone Mountain, which is twelve hundred feet — 
 through all of which the streets are being rapidly ex- 
 tended. The dirt taken from these hills is removed to 
 the water-front and used for filling in the bay, with 
 which hundreds of acres have been reclaimed. As soon 
 as the new-made ground is raised above water, store- 
 houses are built for the use of commerce. 
 
CALIFORNIA. 25 
 
 The city ^\as principally settled by Americans in tlie 
 year 1849, who emigrated from Eastern and Western 
 States in search of gold, and, in consequence of the great 
 desire for wealth, there was but little attention paid to 
 building up the city until several years later ; and that 
 part constructed by the pioneers has long since been 
 swept a\v\ay, and more substantial and commodious build- 
 ings have been erected. The new houses are of brick, 
 cemented on the outside, giving them the appearance of 
 stone ; others are built of stone. In consequence of the 
 frequent earthquakes to which tlie city is subject, the 
 inhabitants find it unsafe to run their buildings up as 
 high as those in Eastern cities, lest they should be shaken 
 down by the elements. 
 
 The harbor of San Francisco is one of the finest and 
 most commodious in America, if not in the world. Its 
 entrance is throuo;h the Grolden Gate, whick is one and 
 a half mile in width and about three miles inland from 
 tke ocean, where the bay is entered, and in front of which 
 the city of San Francisco is located. This spacious bay 
 is sixty miles long, varying from four to nineteen miles 
 in width, with a depth of water capable of floating the 
 largest shi|)s; there is a great number of vessels of all 
 nationalities in tkis port. Eegular lines of steamers con- 
 nect San Francisco with Japan, China, and all points on 
 the northern and southern Pacific coast, while steam- 
 boats and railroads connect with all the important in- 
 land towns and cities. 
 
 When the skip-canal which is in contemplation shall 
 kave been constructed across the isthmus of Central 
 
 3 
 
26 
 
 AROUND THE WOULD. 
 
 America, too-etlier with the great Union and Central Pa- 
 cific Railroads, and other connecting links which are 
 already projected, with a rich and fertile soil, and the 
 mineral resources of the Pacific coast more fully devel- 
 
 SAK FRANCISCO. 
 
 oped, San Francisco is destined to become a great com- 
 mercial emporium of North America, second only to New 
 York in mao;nitude. 
 
 The city of San Francisco claims to have a popula- 
 tion of two hundred and seventy thousand souls, consist- 
 ing of all nationalities; and, should she continue to in- 
 crease in the future in the same ratio as in the past, 
 doubtless her numbers will soon exceed the present 
 
CALIFORNIA. 27 
 
 population of the city of New York. The suburbs are 
 rapidly increasing. Oakland, on the opposite side of 
 the bay from San Francisco, has grown within a few 
 years from a small hamlet to be a city of considerable 
 magnitude. Many of the business-men of San Francisco 
 make Oakland their place of residence. The people 
 ■of the town claim that, for that purpose, it far sur- 
 passes San Francisco. Its genial climate, its delightful 
 scenery, its smooth macadamized streets, shaded with 
 evergreen foliage, and its superb drives and beautiful 
 gardens, have induced many peo23le of wealth to settle 
 in Oakland City. 
 
 California is the finest fruit-growing country in which 
 I have been. Peaches, pears, })lums, figs, and grapes, 
 ^row in perfection. Some of this fine fruit is trans- 
 ported to New York and othei' Eastern markets; but 
 the distance over rail is too far to send fruit, for it loses 
 its flavor before coming into use. Grapes are exten- 
 sively cultivated in all parts of the State, and the wine 
 made from the most suitable grapes is said to l^e quite 
 as good as that im^^orted from foreign countries. 
 
 The climate of San Francisco is rather peculiar. In 
 the forenoon the town has a dingy ajjj^earance, having 
 strong indications of a rainy day ; about ten o'clock it 
 clears up with ])right sunshine, and in the afternoon the 
 effect of the cool breeze is felt from off the ocean. There 
 are only ten degrees difterence in the temj^erature be- 
 tween summer and winter. When I was here, during 
 the summer of 1869, it seemed novel to see ladies prome- 
 nade the streets of San Francisco in the month of July, 
 
28 AROUND TUE WORLD. 
 
 dressed in furs, and gentlemen in overcoats, sucli as we 
 ^vould consider to be winter clotMng. 
 
 Septeinber 22c/. — To-day we cross over tlie bay of San 
 Francisco to tlie city of Oakland, and visit Mr. Mark 
 Winant and family, formerly of Staten Island, wlio re- 
 ceive us cordially. What Brooklyn is to New York 
 City, Oakland is to tlie city of San Francisco. The town 
 derived its name from beino; built in a forest of ever- 
 green oaks, with orchards of fruit-trees, parks, gardens, 
 and vineyards, on every side. Amid this forest of per- 
 petual green can be seen, peeping out here and there,, 
 the substantial residence of the wealthy merchant, the 
 magnificent villa of the nabob, and the neat and tasteful 
 cottage of the well-to-do mechanic, who have been at- 
 tracted here by its grand scenery, mild climate, and quiet 
 surroundings, being free from the dust, noise, and bustle, 
 of a large city. It is supplied wdth gas and water, and 
 two daily newspapers. Churches and schools are more 
 numerous in Oakland, according to its population, than 
 in San Francisco. The city has a population of fifteen 
 thousand, and is rapidly increasing. 
 
 September 23<:/. — To-day we take a ride out to the 
 cemetery and suburbs. 
 
 September 24^A. — This afternoon we hire a carriage 
 and ride out to the Seal-Rocks, a fashionable place of 
 resort, which are six miles out. A good macadamized 
 road leads froiji the city over a succession of sand-hills ; 
 from the summit of some of these hills we occasionally 
 catch a glimpse of the ocean and bay in the distance ; as 
 we pass over the summit of the farthest and highest of 
 
CALIFORNIA. 29 
 
 these hills, almost at our feet the great Pacific Ocean, in 
 all its mystery and majesty, opens before ns. On our 
 right, in the distance, can be seen the Golden Gate, 
 which is open to shi2:)S of all nations. Some three hun- 
 dred yards from the land two rugged rocks rise abruptly 
 out of the sea, to the height of about seventy-five feet, 
 forming an area of perhaps an acre each, literally cov- 
 ered with seals and sea-lions ; the seals were of the size 
 of a Newfoundland dog, l)ut the sea-lions much larger, 
 and their noise resembled that of the bark of a dog; 
 they are seemingly tame, and are protected by the laws 
 of the State. They cling to the rocks as tenaciously as 
 if they had been in possession for thousands of years. 
 They often come in conflict, struggling for the higher 
 places, and engage in loud disputation, unlike any con- 
 troversy which I have ever heard before ; their fierce 
 growls and barks could be heard for miles. I doubt if 
 there is another such scene to be witnessed anywhere 
 in the world. 
 
 Septemher 'Ibth. — We take a ride out to the North 
 Beach, where many visitors go daily, to enjoy the sea- 
 breeze. 
 
 September ^^tli. — Sabbath. Both morning and even- 
 ing we attended the Methodist Church. 
 
 September 27tli. — We proposed to visit the Yosemite 
 Valley, and should have done so, but were dissuaded by 
 those who had been there declarino; that it was as much 
 of a tour of toil as of pleasure, unless one could remain 
 in the valley for several weeks, allowing sufiicient time 
 for rest and meditation. The tour is partly made by 
 
30 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 rail, and partly by stage, over rough, broken, and dusty 
 roads. 
 
 September 28fJi. — To-day I attended the noon prayer- 
 meeting, modeled after the Fulton Street meeting in New 
 York City. After having the pleasure of speaking a few 
 words in behalf of the Mastei^s cause, at the close of the 
 meeting, the little band of Christians, both brothers and 
 sisters, hovered around, greeting me by shaking of h an ds^ 
 and inviting me to call in again, and assist them in their 
 work. 
 
 Septemher ^^th. — This afternoon we ride out to 
 Woodward Gardens, which are adorned with a variety 
 of trees and flowers, selected from all parts of the world. 
 In the gallery are some rare paintings and statuary ; in 
 the zoological department is a great variety of wild 
 animals, including the California lion, and a grizzly bear 
 weighing sixteen hundred pounds; also a number of 
 California birds. 
 
 September ^Oth. — We continue rambling over the city, 
 sight-seeing, and ascend Telegraph Hill, whence we ob- 
 tain a beautiful view both of the city and shipping in 
 the harl)or. There are many profitable tours that could 
 be made over California, which w^ould require many 
 months to accomplish. 
 
CHAPTER III. 
 
 ojst the pacific. 
 
 Octoher 1st. — To-day, at twelve o'clock, we embaik 
 on board the steamship Alaska en route for Japan ; dis- 
 tance five thousand and fifty miles, fare two hundred and 
 fifty dollars apiece. We have in company thirty-five first- 
 class passengers, and six hundred and fifty Chinamen in 
 the steerage. This is conceded to be the longest sea-voy- 
 ao-e in the Avorld Avithout cominu' in siirht of land. The 
 Alaska is one of the first ships of the fleet to which she 
 belongs. She measui'es forty-one hundred tons, three 
 hundred and seventy feet in length, forty feet breadth of 
 beam, and thirty-one feet depth of hold. Her cylinder 
 is one hundred and five inches, with twelve feet stroke, 
 and she burns about fifty tons of coal in every tw^enty- 
 four hours. She is registered to carry fourteen hundred 
 passengers. 
 
 The Alaska carries a crew of one hundred and thirty- 
 five men, including oflScers, sailors, servants, and waiters. 
 The sailors and waiters are all Chinese, but they are 
 admirably trained in their several duties, perfectly quiet, 
 and ready at every call and for every emergency. We 
 find Captain Howard a gentlemanly, polite ofiicer, not 
 only looking well to his ship, but attending as well to the 
 comfort and pleasure of his passengers, which cannot be 
 
32 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 said of all captains on tlie sea. Captain Horvard com- 
 bines humanity witli stern discipline. Each morning 
 and evening he inspects every part of the ship from stem 
 to stern, \vith the keenest eye, to see that everything is 
 going on right. 
 
 After passing through the Golden Gate of California, 
 which always excites some interest, occasionally we be- 
 come acquainted with the passengers. We find on l)oar<l 
 the Rev. Mr. McKil)ben and wife, of Ohio, missionaries 
 to China ; and four young ladies, all missionaries, some on 
 their first voyage, , others returning to spheres of honored 
 labor. We also have in company Mr. Esendecker, Ger- 
 man consul for Yeddo, Japan; Mr. Fowler, of the House 
 of Commons, England ; and Mr. and Mrs. Runnels, of 
 Boston, who intend makins; the circuit of the o-lobe : and 
 many others of some note. It took us some two or three 
 days to get used to the sea, and to one another, and to 
 leain each other's histories. It is wonderful what an 
 amount of information, both good and l)a(l, in regard to 
 one another, we do gather up in the course of a few 
 days. Little groups began to form and ]3ass occasionally 
 hours on deck, or in the upper saloon, some playing at 
 cards and other games, but I heard not as many sacred 
 songs, and "Home, Sweet Home," sung, as on some 
 other long voyages; but before reaching port they were 
 all as sociable as one family. 
 
 October 'Hd. — Weatlier clear, wind west; course west- 
 southwest; latitude 37° 29^' north, longitude 125° 34' 
 west. Ship ran from noon, yesterday, to 12 m. to-day, one 
 hundred and sixty miles. Thermometc'r ()4°. 
 
ON THE PACIFIC. 33 
 
 October 8d. — Sabbath. This forenoon divine service 
 was administered by the Rev. Mr. McKibben. Weather 
 clear, wind blowing a good breeze from the west ; conrse 
 west-southwest; latitude 37° 21' north, longitude 129° 
 12' west. Distance run, up to 12 m., one hundred and 
 seventy six miles. Thermometer 66°. 
 
 October 4:t7i. — Weather clear, wind south; course 
 west-southwest; latitude 37° 21^' north, longitude 132° 
 54' west. Distance run, up to 12 m., one hundred and 
 seventy-six miles. Thermometer 70°. 
 
 Yesterday we were infoi'med that to-day we should 
 meet the homeward-bound steamer, as both would l)e 
 sailing on the same parallel of latitude ; accordingly we 
 had a large number of letters written to surprise friends 
 -at home. The letters were duly mailed^ postage paid, 
 €tc., and all day we were eagerly on the lookout for the 
 steamer, but the ship never made her apj^earance. 
 
 October btli. — Weather clear, wind blowing hard from 
 the south ; course west-southwest ; latitude 37° 32' north, 
 longitnde 136° 19' west. Thermometer 60°. Distance 
 run, up to 12 m., ojie hundred and sixty-three miles. 
 
 October 6th. — Weather clear, wind blowing hard from 
 the south, accompanied by a heavy sea ; course west- 
 southwest ; latitude 37° 23' north, longitude 139° 18' 
 west. Distance run, to 12 m., one hundred and forty-two 
 miles. Thermometer 65°. 
 
 October 7tli. — Wind fresh from the south; course 
 west-southwest; latitude 37° 21' north, longitude 142° 
 37' west. Distance run, up to 12 m., one hundred and 
 iifty-eight miles. Thermometer 68°. 
 
34 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 October SfJt. — Weather overcast and rainy, wind west ; 
 course west-southwest ; latitude 37° 10' north, longitude 
 146° 8' west. Distance run, up to 12 m., one handred 
 and sixty miles. Thermometer 50°. 
 
 October 9tli. — Weather clear, wind blowing hard from 
 the west; course west-southwest; latitude 36° 59' north, 
 longitude 149° 25' west. Distance mn, up to 12 m., one 
 hundred and fiftv-seven miles. Thermometer 56°. 
 
 October 10th. — Sabbath. This forenoon we have di- 
 vine service administered l)v the Rev. Mr. McKibben. 
 Weather clear, wind blowing hard ft'om the west; course 
 west-southwest; latitude 36° 48' north, lono-itude 152° 
 9' west. Distance run, up to 12 m., one hundred and 
 forty-eight miles. Thermometer 65°. 
 
 October iltJi. — Weather stormy, and blowing a gale 
 from the southwest ; sea ver}^ high ; course west-south- 
 west ; latitude 35° 33' north, longitude 155° 8' west. 
 Distance run, up to 12 m., one hundred and twenty-eight 
 miles. Thermometer 65°. 
 
 October 12th. — Weather clear, wind blowing a gale 
 from the southwest, accompanied by a heavy cross-sea ; 
 course west-southwest; latitude 35° 11' north, longitude 
 157° 33' west. Distance run, up to 12 m., one hundred 
 and ten miles. Thermometer 62°. 
 
 October IStJt. — Weather clear, with continuation of 
 the southwest gale ; heavy sea running, and ship labor- 
 ing hard; latitude 35° 13' north, longitude 159° 13' west. 
 Distance run, up to 12 m., one hundred and six miles. 
 Thermometer 65°. Course west-southwest. 
 
 October l-lth. — Weather clear, wind southwest ; the 
 
ON THE PACIFIC. 35 
 
 gale is so violent and the sea so liigli, that the topsail- 
 yards and light spars are lowered on deck, to relieve the 
 ship from laboring so hard in making head against the 
 gale and heavy sea. Thermometer 64°. Latitude 34° 
 25' north, longitude 1G1° 36' west. Distance run, \\]) to 
 12 M., one hundred and twenty-seven miles. Course 
 west-southwest. 
 
 Ocfoher 15 fh. — Weather clear. The southwest gale, 
 which has been blowing so fearfully for the last ninety 
 hours, is gradually subsiding. Course west-southwest ; 
 latitude 33° 25' north, longitude 163° 25' west. Distance 
 run, up to 12 m., one hundred and thirty miles. Ther- 
 mometer 70°, The sailors have been engaged all day 
 sending aloft the ship's topsail-yards, which were brought 
 on deck yesterday, 
 
 October IQth. — Weather clear. Thermometer 70°. 
 Wind fi'esh from the southwest ; course west-southwest ; 
 latitude 33° 7' north, longitude 166° 53' west. Distance, 
 run, up to 12 ]\r., one hundred and forty-nine miles. 
 
 October 11th. — Sabbath. We have divine service on 
 board, administered in the Episcopal form, by Mr. Fow- 
 ler, a member of the English House of Commons, and 
 preaching by the Rev. Mr. McKibben. Weather clear. 
 Thermometer 72°. Wind fresh from the southwest; 
 course west-southwest; latitude 32° 27' north, longitude 
 169° 31' west. Distance run, up to 12 m., one hundred 
 and forty-two miles. 
 
 October IS fJi. — Weather clear, and wind southwest, 
 with a heavy cross-sea. Thermometer 80°, Course west- 
 southwest ; latitude 31° 04' north, lonc^itude 172° 55' 
 
36 AROUND TEE WORLD. 
 
 west. Distance run, up to 12 m., one liunclred and sev- 
 enty-five miles. 
 
 October 19th. — Weather clear, and wind fresli from 
 tlie soutliwest. Tliermometer 80°. Course west-south- 
 west ; latitude 30° 51' north, longitude 176° 5' west. 
 Distance run, up to 12 m., one hundred and sixty-nine 
 miles. 
 
 Octoher 20t]i. — Weather clear, and wind fresh from 
 the southwest; course west-southwest. Thermometer 
 71°. Latihide 30° 51' north, longitude 179° 29' west. 
 Distance run, up to 12 m., one hundred and seventy-six 
 miles. 
 
 Octoher 226/. — To-day we passed through an experi- 
 ence that I never expect to verify again, and novel to 
 most of the passengers, which occurs only on the Pacific 
 Ocean. It was droj^ping a day out of the calendar. We 
 retired to our beds as usual,- and fell asleep on Wednes- 
 day night, the 20th ; when we awoke the next morning 
 we found, by the shij^'s log, that it was Friday, the 22d, 
 We were not without warnino; of this stransre coinci- 
 deuce, for it had been a matter of speculation for several 
 days before, when we should pass over the one hundred 
 and eightieth degree of longitude. If we had crossed the 
 meridian two days later, a Sunday would have been 
 blotted out as thouo-h we had not lived it. 
 
 Every one should know that, in traveling around the 
 world from east to west, a day is absolutely lost from 
 the calendai". If it were j^ossible for one to go around 
 the world in twenty-four hours, and retain the same 
 relative position to the sun, he would travel with the 
 
ON THE PACIFIC. 37- 
 
 sun, and there would \)e no loss or gain of time ; but, by- 
 traveling more leisurely westward, a certain amount of 
 time is added to each, day, which, in makino- the entire 
 circuit of the earth, causes a loss of one day from the 
 calendar at some point in the journey, as if we had not 
 lived it, virtually leaving but three hundred and sixty- 
 four days in the year. 
 
 The question arose, " Where shall the change of time 
 be made in dropping the day ? " Navigators have an- 
 swered this question by making the change on the one 
 hundred and eightieth degree of longitude west, or east 
 from Greenwich or London, which is practically the same 
 thing. When they reach this meridian sailing westward, 
 they drop a day, and when they reach it sailing east- 
 ward they gain a day. There is no other point or line 
 on the world's surface so favorable for making the change 
 in reckoning, for dropping or adding a day, as that point 
 which has been taken by the English and American 
 navigators, the one hundred and eightieth degree of 
 longitude. This line falls in the middle of the Pacific 
 Ocean, where there are no inhabitants to be affected by 
 the change, excepting on some scattered islands. For 
 instance, according to the true method of time, while 
 Saturday is kept on the one side of the meridian line of 
 one hundred and eighty degrees longitude upon the scat- 
 tered islands, Sunday is observed on the other side ; and 
 dropping a day from the calendar brought us in har- 
 mony with the time kept in Japan, England, and New 
 York. 
 
 Our life on the Pacific is somewhat monotonous. Not 
 
38 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 a sail of any kind lias been seen since leaving tlie Golden 
 Gate of California, except that on the first day out we 
 saw two vessels going into port. But flocks of strange 
 birds, with wings at least four feet from tip to tip, fol- 
 lowed us for several days, picking up the crumbs thrown 
 from the table, at last giving up the chase. 
 
 Our meals were served with the utmost regularity, 
 and all the waiters were Chinese boys, quick of per- 
 ception, cheerful in their services, and quiet as lambs. 
 Those who turn out early in the morning can get coffee 
 from sev^en to eight o'clock ; at nine a substantial break- 
 fast is served, lunch at one, dinner at six, and tea at 
 eight ; l)ut, with the thermometer from 70° to 80°, it is 
 pretty hard to respond to all the calls of the gong. To- 
 day the weather is clear, and ^vind fresh from the south- 
 west. Thermometer 82°. Course west-southwest; lati- 
 tude 30° 8' north, hmgitude 176° 29' east. Distance 
 run, up to 12 m., two hundred and nine miles. 
 
 October 23d. — Weather clear^ and w^ind fresh from 
 the southwest. Thermometer 82°. Course west-south- 
 west; latitude 30° 12' north, longitude l72° 35' east. 
 Distance run, up to 12 m., two hundred and three miles. 
 
 October 24:th. — Weather stormy, and wind blowing a 
 gale from the southwest, accompanied by thunder and 
 lightning, and heavy sea running. Thermometer 80°. 
 Course west-southwest; latitude 30° 22' north, longitude 
 168° 13' east. Distance ruu, up to 12 m., one hundred 
 and ninety-two miles. This being the Sabbath, we had 
 preaching by the Rev. Mr. McKibben. 
 
 October 2Uli. — Weather clear, and the wind blowing 
 
ON THE PACIFIC. 39 
 
 hard from the west. Tliermometer 79°. Course west- 
 southwest; latitude 29° 51' north, longitude 165° 58' 
 east. Distance run, u|) to 12 m., one hundred and fifty- 
 four miles. 
 
 October 26th. — Weather clear, and wind l)lowing hard 
 from the northwest. Thermometer 80°. Course west- 
 southwest; latitude 29° 47' north, longitude 161° 57' 
 east. Distance run, up to 12 m., t^vo hundred and ten 
 miles. 
 
 October 27th. — Weather clear, and wind blowing hard 
 from the southeast. Thermometer 84°. Latitude 29° 54' 
 north, longitude 157° 29' east. Distance run, up to 12 m., 
 two hundred and thirty-three miles. 
 
 October 2^th. — Weather clear, and the wind blowinof 
 hard from the west, with heavy sea. Thermometer 81°. 
 Latitude 30° 30' north, longitude 153° 49' east. Dis- 
 tance run, up to 12 m., one hundred and ninety- three 
 miles, 
 
 October 2{)th. — Weather clear, and wind fresh from 
 the southwest. Thermometer 82°. Course west-south- 
 west; latitude 31° 14' north, longitude 150° 12' east. 
 Distance run, uj:) to 12 m., one hundred and ninety one 
 miles. 
 
 October QOth. — Weather clear, wHnd west - by - north 
 and fresh, with moderate sea. Thermometer 80°. Course 
 west-southwest; latitude 32° 28' north, lono-itude 145° 
 5' east. Distance run, up to 12 m., two hundred and 
 twenty-nine miles. 
 
 October 31st. — Weather clear, and the wind blowing 
 a gale from the northwest, with heavy sea. Thermome- 
 
40 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 ter 74°. Course nortliwest ; latitude 33° 54' nortli, longi- 
 tude 141° 43' east. Distance run, u]3 to 12 m., two hun- 
 dred and tliirtv-six miles. 
 
 November \8t. — In consequence of adverse winds and 
 heavy weather, ^\"e have been thirty-one days making the 
 passage across the North Pacific, while an ordinary passage 
 is only twenty-two days. But I have been at sea when 
 the sight of land was far more welcome, for this voyage 
 was upon a summer sea, and under sunny skies nearly 
 all the way, and the time has passed pleasantly on ship- 
 board. As a rule, ships in crossing over the l^ortli Pa- 
 cific Ocean do not run as fast as those crossins; the At- 
 lantic ; but the economy of coal for a voyage of five 
 thousand miles is a serious consideration, when at least 
 some thirteen hundred tons have to be provided for the 
 voyage, and, if by any accident or detention the supply 
 should run short, there is no intermediate coaling-station 
 at which we could stop on this vast expanse of water, 
 upon which we never caught sight of a sail, or craft of 
 any description, after we got clear of the coast of Cali- 
 fornia, and the engine never stopped, nor lost a single 
 revolution, for the space of thirty-one days. 
 
 The Pacific sea promised, Avhen leaving San Fran- 
 cisco, that we should have a quick and smooth passage ; 
 learned doctors of divinity, and American and English 
 statesmen, indorsed the assurance that the passage would 
 be made in less than twenty-two days ; that after we got 
 through and away from the Golden Gate of California 
 we should have the Pacific all serene. We did get clear 
 of the Gate and across the bar in the most pacific way, 
 
ON THE PACIFIC. 41 
 
 and for one or two days all was gentle and mild ; but, 
 for the next twenty-eight days, we had a succession of 
 crops of white foam, and our noble ship, the Alaska, was 
 oftener on her beam-ends than on her keel. 
 
 As we approached the coast of Japan, we ran through 
 a school of whales, playfully disporting themselves in 
 the waters ; soon after we were enterino- the harbor of 
 Yokohama, the principal port of Japan, in which ves- 
 sels of all nations, both men-of-war and merchantmen, 
 were anchored in the bay. The Stars-and-Stripes were 
 floatino; to the breeze, from the mastheads of a number 
 of ships. The firing of the ship's gun, and the drop- 
 ping of the anchor, brought around us a number of 
 boats, all propelled with sculls by the natives, both men 
 and women; some of them were loaded with people 
 looking after friends on board, and others came to take 
 on shore the passengers. The excitement and confusion 
 were so great that Ave were at a loss to know what boat 
 to take ; but, at length, the proprietor or runner of the 
 Grand Hotel solicited our company, when we piled in 
 our luggage and took passage for the shore — about three 
 hundred yards distant from the ship — for which he 
 charged two dollars a passenger for about ten minutes' 
 work. We were afterward informed that the regular 
 fare was only ten cents a passenger. After our luggage 
 had been examined by the custom-house officials, we 
 made our way to the Grand Hotel, and, looking at the 
 rooms which we proposed to occupy, we were informed 
 that the board was six dollars a day for each person. I 
 said to Mr. Smith, the proprietor of the house, that we 
 
42 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 had no fault to find witli the rooms selected, but that 
 we were from a land of civilization, and expected to pay 
 full value for whatever we received, but, thinking that 
 his fare was entirely too high, and that we should take 
 up our abode in the International Hotel, only a few rods 
 farther west, and equally as good if not a better house, 
 we accordingly made a movement to leave, when he of- 
 fered to take us for three dollars per day, which is the 
 ordinary price in all the first-class houses in Yokohama. 
 
CHAPTER IV. 
 
 EXCURSIONS IN JAPAN. 
 
 November '2d. — Yokohama is divided into three parts. 
 The commercial district — where we landed — was built, 
 and is occu]3ied principally, by English merchants. There 
 are no wharves, but a wide street extending over a mile 
 along the water, on the shore-side of which the foreign 
 merchants have their bungalows and offices; some of 
 these have^fine gardens, surrounded with walls, and the 
 yards ornamented with Oriental shrubbery and flowers. 
 The high bluffs to the left form another section of the 
 city, where many of the merchants reside. From this 
 beautiful elevation a fine view of the city and harbor is 
 obtained. The Oriental section is more in the back- 
 ground, where the Japanese as a people keep to them- 
 selves, and seem to be quiet and inoffensive. 
 
 November Scl — This morning early, in company with 
 Mr. and Mrs. Runnels, and Mr. Otto, we leave by the 
 cars for Yeddo, distance twenty-four miles, fare one dol- 
 lar. This railroad was built as an experiment by an 
 English company for the Japanese, and was the first 
 road operated in the empire. On reaching Yeddo, each 
 one of our pai'ty was mounted in a small vehicle called 
 gin-riki-sha, in which there is only room for one person, 
 and is di^awn by a coolie, who could make as good time 
 
44 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 over the smootli streets as a pony. We also procured a 
 guide wlio had been trained for the route, and who 
 spoke English sufficient to be understood. We at first 
 drove to see the American minister, who has his resi- 
 dence in the city of Yeddo, and who furnished us with 
 such passes as we required to go over the city and visit 
 the institutions. 
 
 The city of Tokio, formerly Yeddo, is some nine miles 
 lono" and eio^ht miles wide. About one-eis:hth of the 
 city's area is occupied by canals and the moats of the 
 castle. The city fronts on a large and spacious bay of 
 the same name, but the water is too shallow to admit 
 the largest ships, and those engaged in foreign trade 
 found that they could do business better in Yokohama, 
 at which place their cargoes are discharged on lighters 
 and taken to Tokio. The castle is in the centre of the 
 city. We rode around its walls. It consists of a central 
 citadel, and a large area of land, within strong earthen 
 embankments planted with trees and faced with heavy 
 stone-walls, over fifty feet in height, and built in a man- 
 ner well fitted to resist earthquakes and land-slides, to 
 which the country is subjected. 
 
 There are a great number of temj^les in the city, be- 
 longing chiefly to the numerous Buddhist sects. The 
 . two principal religions of Japan are the Buddhist and 
 the Shinto (doctrine of the gods). The former is the 
 popular, and the latter appears to be the official religion. 
 There are also a great number of Buddhist monasteries, 
 and a few nunneries, in the city. The population of 
 Tokio, or Yeddo, is reported to be over one million souls. 
 
EXCURSIONS IN JAPAN. 45 
 
 It will be remembered that Yeddo was founded by 
 IjT'eyasu, tlie fii'st sliogun of the Tokugawa line. While 
 Yeddo was the shogun's, Kioto was the mikado's capital. 
 The last shogun abdicated in 1857, at which time the 
 office was abolished, and the name of Yeddo passed away 
 with that of shogun, the designation of the city being 
 changed to Tokio, or Eastern Capital. The mikado, or 
 emperor, took up his residence in it, and it is now the 
 capital of the empire. 
 
 We, in our gm-riki-shas^ were drawn from temple to 
 temple with great rapidity. We paid the coolies well, 
 occasionally giving them a little backshish to keep up 
 their courage. The temples of Tokio tower above all 
 the other buildings of the city. The houses and shops 
 are all built low, only from one to two stories, so that 
 they may not have far to fall in case of earthquakes, 
 which are frequent. The first temple that we entered 
 was from fifty to sixty feet high. The architecture was 
 purely Oriental and imposing, and the interior far more 
 beautiful and in better taste than I expected to find it, 
 from the weather-beaten appearance of the exterior. We 
 next drove to Atangoreama, which is located in the cen- 
 tre of the city upon a high bluff, reached by a long flight 
 of stone steps, about one hundred in all. From this bluff 
 we obtained a fine view of the city, and overlooked the 
 castle or palace of the tycoon. The castle stands upon 
 high ground, strongly fortified, with walled terraces and 
 deep, wide moats, seemingly almost impregnable to any 
 attack; and a drive along the castle-walls, and moats 
 filled with water, is one of the great attractions of Tokio. 
 
46 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 We also visited Stago Yama, anotlier elevated spot, 
 ■wlience we obtained a magnificent view of the shipping 
 in the harbor, and the tops of the temples. The summit 
 of this mount is reached by two flights of steps — one to 
 the right for gentlemen, and one to the left for ladies. 
 The mount is adorned with large shade-trees, from ap- 
 pearance a hundred years old. This city originally was 
 built on a plain, and these high mounds, looming up 
 over every other object, are artificial, the earth having 
 been brought into the city by hand-labor, and raised up 
 to beautify the place, 
 
 Yeddo, or Tokio, is not an ancient city. Its site be- 
 came historic when Yamato Dake, in the second century 
 of our era, marched to conquer the eastern tribes. In 
 later times the Mimamonto chieftains subdued the plains 
 of the Kuanto, and, until the twelfth century, the region 
 around the bay of Yeddo was wikl, uncivilized, and 
 with few inhabitants. 
 
 This being the mikado's birthday, there was a great 
 display of flags ; every house and store was decorated, 
 music was heard in every part of the city, and in all the 
 temples they were praying to their gods — that is, if 
 beating on drums, to awaken the spirits of those whom 
 they propose to worship), can be called praying ; others 
 came from behind a curtain and eno*ao;ed in what is 
 called the sacred dance, cutting up all kinds of antics ; 
 and yet, in the way it was performed, it seemed solemn 
 and devout. 
 
 We visited the Asakusa Temple, which is the most 
 popular in Tokio, if not the most celebrated in Japan. 
 
EXCURSIONS IN JAPAN. 47 
 
 The approacli to this temple is through an avenue lined 
 on both sides with a great variety of toy-shops and 
 booths, filled with all sorts of gay ornaments for sale. 
 Behind these booths are small shrines and temples. At 
 the end of the avenue is a large gate, through which we 
 entered, when we came to a huge red building called 
 the temple. We noticed in ^^assing through the gate 
 two colossal gods, or demons, in niches behind iron 
 screens, who are the guardians of the gate : one is ever 
 ready to welcome the man who repents and endeavors 
 to reform ; the other is pleased when children are born 
 who will become good men. Entering the court-yard of 
 the temple, flocks of pigeons are seen, for whose benefit 
 women sell rice and peas in little earthen pots, which 
 worshipers buy as an act of piety and cast to the sacred 
 fowls. To the left, in a stall, is seen the albino pony, 
 sacred to Kuanon, to whose honor the temple was built. 
 The pony is also fed by pious contributions. Within 
 the door of the temple is a large bronze incense-burner, 
 on which are the twelve signs of the zodiac. In front 
 of the large contribution-box, around the altar, several 
 were kneeling in prayer to their gods ; this altar is richly 
 adorned with gilt images, and lighted. The ceilings and 
 walls are covered with specimens of the sacred paintings 
 of the Japanese Buddhistic art. Angels, gods, and heroes 
 are represented, and numerous tablets are hung upon 
 the walls. 
 
 There are a large numbei' of subordinate temples, 
 shrines, and images, within the temple-grounds ; a pa- 
 goda, a hall of services, an octagon temple, with several 
 
48 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 hundred small idols in it, many tea-booths, a curious 
 rude theatre, and many other attractions to the stranger. 
 We also saw many representations of animals, life-size, 
 of all kinds, and very imj^erfect in construction — the 
 most hideous-looking images I ever witnessed. In these 
 temples they expect a fee for admission, which is left en- 
 tirely to the generosity of the visitor. 
 
 The temj^le of the five hundred sages, or disciples of 
 Buddha, is most interesting. On entering the first build- 
 ing we saw on the floor, near the main entrance, an 
 image having three eyes, horns in the back, long hair 
 like a woman's, and hoofs like a horse. In the second 
 building, from a floor of earth rises a colossal throne of 
 water- worn bowlders of volcanic rock, and masses of lava, 
 on which stands a large gilt image of Buddha, the 
 founder of their religion. On one side of him appears 
 the representation of an elephant, and on the other that 
 of a lion; on his right stands Kasha, his best disciple, 
 who collected all the discourses and remembered say- 
 ings of his master, and formed the original Buddhist 
 canon. On his left stands Anan, who was gifted with 
 a wonderful memory : he remembered all that his mas- 
 ter said and taught. The number of original disciples 
 of Buddha was sixteen ; and these five hundred were 
 later converts, who devoted themselves to the priesthood 
 and became missionaries, and who propagated Buddhism 
 in the upper provinces. Most of them are portrayed in 
 attitudes of meditation, some purifying their bodies. 
 All have shaven heads and priestly robes, and some are 
 alorned with their symbols of office — staff, scroll, keys, 
 
EXCURSIONS m JAPAN. 49 
 
 etc. Immediately inside the railing, to the left, is a 
 dark-colored image of Ema, the lord and judge of hell. 
 
 JSfovemher 4.th. — On our return to Yokohama we de- 
 voted some time to visiting the Oriental shops where 
 they have for sale many curiosities of their own handi- 
 work, such as ivory toys, paintings on silk cloth, lacquer- 
 ware, and many other small articles, all of which they 
 are most eager to sell to strangers. Many of the shop- 
 keepers in Yokohama can speak enough broken English 
 to be understood, and those who cannot call in an in- 
 terpreter. 
 
 The money in use among foreigners at Yokohama 
 consists of Mexican and American trade - dollars and 
 bank-notes. For small change the Jaj)anese silver, paper, 
 and copper currency is universally used. The Japanese 
 coins and denominations are as follows, viz. : copper 
 cash is the one-tenth part of a copper cent, or, as called 
 here, sen,' twenty-five sens make one bu, fifty sens make 
 two bu, and one hundred sens four bu. 
 
 Novennber bth. — This morning early, in company with 
 Mr. and Mrs. Runnels, and Mr. Otto, some of our ship- 
 mates, we start upon an excursion out into the interior 
 of the country. We rode in small gin-rihi-shafi^ drawn 
 by two coolies. We took our cook and eatables with 
 us, and were gone for two days and one night, passing 
 through deep ravines, and over mountain-tops, dotted 
 with towns and cities. Every foot of the land that 
 could be worked was under the highest state of cultiva- 
 tion, one tier of rice and cotton fields rising above an- 
 other, by a slight gradation, and farther up on the sides 
 
50 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 of tlie mountains vegetation was seen in perfection. 
 As we passed tlirougli tlie numerous villages, we were 
 constantly greeted witli the cry — from men, women, and 
 children — " O-ha-yo ? " meaning " How are you ? " We 
 stopped at Kamakura, wliich was formerly the political 
 capital of Japan. Every spot of ground in an<l around 
 
 DALBUTZ. 
 
 Kamakura is classic to the Japanese, and the great hulk 
 of the vast store of the Japanese histories and historical 
 romances have their chief scenes laid in or near Kama- 
 kura. The city is said to have contained at one period 
 two hundred thousand houses, but very little remains 
 to-day to attest its former greatness. Heavy forest-trees 
 
EXCURSIONS IN JAPAN. 52 
 
 now cover the ground upon wliicli the ancient city stood, 
 and where scores, if not hundreds, of battles have been 
 fought, and streams of blood have flowed. The chief 
 place of interest is the temple, which stands on a lofty 
 plateau, reached by a high flight of stone steps ; in front 
 of the temple stands a canopy, used on festival occasions 
 by musicians and sacred dancers. About one mile from 
 Kamakura we enter the village of Hasemura, near which 
 stands the famous bronze image of Buddha. The ap- 
 proach to it is through a very beautiful avenue, over- 
 hung with evergreens. This image is the largest in tlie 
 world, being forty-four feet high and of good propor- 
 tions. The material is said to be an alloy of copper, 
 with a slight mixture of gold. We had the curiosity to 
 go inside, where there are numerous gilt idols worshiped 
 by the Japanese. On leaving this the greatest of all 
 images, we soon approached the sea-shore, along which we 
 were obliged to walk, through the deep sand, some two 
 or three miles, to relieve our coolies, who by the day's 
 journey were much fatigued. When we came to solid 
 ground we again mounted our gin-rihi-sJias, and rode till 
 we came to the village of Enoshima, where we stopped 
 overnight. It was quite dark on our arrival in this an- 
 cient town, to which we had to ascend from the sandy 
 shore, through a narrow street, over numerous stone 
 steps, till we came to the inn, or what is commonly called 
 a tea-house. When the inmates saw us coming up the 
 steps,, they ran out to welcome us, and on entering the 
 upper chamber we were politely requested by the head 
 of the house to pull off our boots, which is one of the 
 
52 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 marked customs of tlie country. Everything was per- 
 fectly neat and clean, but there was not a particle of 
 furniture in tlie rooms. During our sojourn tliey treated 
 us with marked attention and cordiality, laughing, and 
 in good-humor trying to entertain in the best possible 
 way ; and yet we could not speak a word of their lan- 
 guage, but by the art of pantomime we managed to get 
 what we required. When bedtime had arrived, quilts 
 were S23read upon the bare floor ; we being fatigued by 
 the day's journey, the night's repose was quite as com- 
 fortable as in a first-class hotel. 
 
 November Qth. — This morning we rose early, and after 
 breakfast prepared by our cook, and paying our bills, 
 we took a stroll over the island. We visited the fancy 
 stores, and the numerous temples and shrines. Eno- 
 shima is only an island at high tide ; at low water it is 
 a peninsula. It is heavily timbered, and clothed with 
 dense masses of evergreen foliage. There is a story to 
 the eff'ect that, in ancient times, there were five huge 
 dragons living in the marshes of the island, and no man 
 had the courage to approach them. Many people were 
 devoured, and one rich man lost all his children, who 
 were eaten by the monsters. After the power of the 
 protecting goddess had sprung up on the island, the 
 dragons ceased their ravages. 
 
 Passing over the high lands of the island, a beautiful 
 view of the sea is obtained. As we follow the path, we 
 come to a deep gorge in the rocks, and farther on pass 
 shell-booths on either side ; and in a short time we de- 
 scend the high embankment upon the sea-shore and see 
 
EXCURSIONS IN JAPAN 
 
 53 
 
 the cave, wliicli only can be reached at a low stage of 
 the tide. 
 
 On leaving the island we return by another road than 
 that by which we came. The first village is Katase, in- 
 habited by fishermen, and is not noted for cleanliness. 
 It contains a Buddhist temple, and several small shrines, 
 
 FUSI TAMA. 
 
 for which the entire country is noted; they may be seen 
 in the rice and cotton fields, and even along the road- 
 side. We are now in close proximity to the great vol- 
 cano Fusi Yama, the sacred mountain of fire, the j^ride 
 and glory of Japan, which the Japanese, as by a sense 
 of religious duty, put in every picture and on every 
 article that they manufacture. Fusi Yama is not in 
 
54 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 a state of eruption, but the volcano, looming up over 
 fourteen thousand feet, can be seen at sea in a clear day 
 nearly one hundred miles. 
 
 After leaving Katase we soon pass over a beautiful 
 little river. Nearly all the streams in Japan have their 
 source in the mountains, falling down gorges and steep 
 inclines to the sea. At noon we stopped at Totsuka, 
 where, according to arrangement, we met our coolies, 
 
 > " '/.'; 
 
 "^ii^m^^mmms^m- 
 
 JAPANESE GIRLS 
 
 ^ijiUli" IVv' 
 
 who went in advance to make preparations for dinner, 
 and had the table spread out. The tea-house in which 
 we took lunch was clean, and the coolie gii4s in attend- 
 ance rather pretty. Most of the country-houses are one 
 story high, with straw-thatched roofs ; they have open 
 fronts, and for window-glass is substituted rice-paper. 
 As we passed through the farming districts, we saw 
 scores of the natives working in the rice and cotton fields 
 as naked as when born. The women had on some cloth- 
 
EXCURSIONS m JAPAN. 55 
 
 ing, but were bareheaded and barefooted. When work- 
 ing in the fields or shops they carry their babes in sacks, 
 fastened by a strap on their backs. 
 
 In every city and hamlet through which we passed 
 Buddhist temples or shrines may be seen, and in every 
 temple are images, caudles, bells, drums, books, and a 
 variety of altar ornaments. In front of the temples are 
 usually two huge red images — the one hates evil, and 
 the other welcomes 2:ood. Sandals are often huna; be- 
 fore them by devotees who are anxious to walk the strict 
 path of virtue, or those having sore feet; these j)ious 
 worshipers often fling balls of chewed paper at them : if 
 the balls stick to the image the omen is good, and their 
 prayers are answered. We occasionally, in some of the 
 larger towns, see a Shinto temple, where devotees wor- 
 ship the Shinto gods, and live in fear and reverence of 
 the memories of the dead. 
 
 Buddhism in Japan was introduced from India, 
 through China and Corea, five hundred years after the 
 Christian era, and in India six hundred years before 
 Christ. They worship Buddha, and a host of deceased 
 men, and pray to a vast number of saints ; they believe 
 in progressive states of future reward and j)unishmeut, 
 and are influenced in their actions by the fears and hopes 
 of the world to come. 
 
 Just l^efore reaching Yokohama, but within its pre- 
 cincts, we passed by the execution-ground, where crimi- 
 nals are beheaded for murder, burglary, and often for 
 smaller crimes. The grounds were large, and surrounded 
 by a high fence, giving them a very gloomy appearance. 
 
56 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 November ^th. — ^This being the Sahbath, the Rev. 
 Mr. Ballagh, missionary, formerly of New Jersey, called 
 to see me, with whom I attended the Reformed Church. 
 The edifice is new and recently finished, neat in its con- 
 struction, and will seat about four hundred. The na- 
 tives keep no sabbath; but they have many sacred, 
 days and holidays on which they hold their religious 
 festivals. 
 
 November SfJi. — To-day I called on the Rev. J. H. . 
 Ballagh, who kindly showed me through the missionary 
 buildings, and the new seminary erected for the native 
 young ladies. This fine edifice is situated on the blufif 
 overhanging the city of Yokohama, and affords a most 
 beautiful and interesting panoramic view of the harbor, 
 filled as it is with vessels of different nations and of 
 every rig. This female seminary was built by American 
 contributions, in which the Sabbath-school of Bergen 
 Point, New Jersey, took an active part. The young 
 ladies attending the seminary were dressed in English 
 costume, neat and clean in appearance, and prove apt 
 and quick in their studies. They are taught in their 
 native language, and in the English if desired. 
 
 Missionaries in the treaty ports of Japan are doing 
 a good and profitable work. Some of those sent out by 
 the American and English boards are taken under the 
 cognizance and into the pay of the Government, with 
 the distinct understanding that they are at liberty to 
 teach Bible truth in their schools. 
 
CHAPTER V. 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 Novemher ^dtli. — Japan is a land of great beauty, and 
 rich in fertility. The Government and its inhabitants 
 are l)eing rapidly transformed into an enlightened civ- 
 ilization, and all that has been told us recently of the 
 empire is abundantly confirmed by observation and ex- 
 perience. The railway and the telegraph are teaching 
 the people great lessons of social reform. The two- 
 sworded warriors are scarcely to be seen in the streets 
 as hitherto, and there is substituted for these blood- 
 thirsty desperadoes an improved system of police. 
 
 There are a great many foreigners employed and 
 doing business in the treaty ports of Japan, as engineers, 
 surgeons, teachers, etc. Great Britain holds an enviable 
 position in this category of ofiicials, and British influence 
 is made manifest in many ways. There are several news- 
 papers printed in English, and to some extent the Eng- 
 lish language is spoken, but it is not known by the na- 
 tives in the country towns. Until within the last fe^v 
 years, foreigners were not permitted to enter the pre- 
 cincts of Tokio without a military escort, but now all 
 strangers have the liberty to visit and explore with the 
 greatest degree of safety. We were drawn in the giin- 
 rilci-slias, and entered the great temple of Shiba, and the 
 
58 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 tombs of tlie tycoons and their wives, and rode freely 
 througli and around the city, visiting all the princij^al 
 temples and places of sacred dancing, without being mo- 
 lested. The mikado, nnlike the exclusive and secluded 
 emperors of many ages ago, mingles with the people, and 
 holds converse with the representatives of foreign states, 
 and numerous embassies and deleo;ations are sent to 
 Europe and America, all designed to collect such infor- 
 mation as will promote the best interests of law and order. 
 
 The territory of Japan comprises four large islands 
 and nearly four thousand smaller ones. There are seven 
 grand divisions, which are subdivided into sixty-eight 
 provinces, and these again into smaller districts and 
 towns. It has an area of one hundred and ninety thou 
 sand square miles, and a population of about thirty mill 
 ion. She was once in the far-off Orient, but is now our 
 nearest Western neighbor. Her people walk our streets 
 her young men are being educated in our colleges ; her 
 art adorns our homes, and has ojjened to us a new field 
 of commerce. 
 
 In Japan, for the last six hundred years, there have 
 been both a civil and a relio-ious ruler, althouo-h the 
 latter was scarcely anything more than a nominal officer. 
 The former, known under the name of tycoon, had the 
 reins of government in his own hands ; but the mikado 
 was recognized as the religious head of the empire, and 
 was superior in rank to the tycoon, and yet he had little 
 to do with public affairs. In the year 1868 a revolution 
 was inaugurated, and at length became successful, l)y 
 which the power of the tycoon was overthrown, and he 
 
JAPAN. 59 
 
 was reduced to the position of a prince of the empire. 
 The mikado was duly installed and recognized as su- 
 preme ruler. Under him he has two hundred and sixty 
 daimios, of whom eighteen are the chiefs of the empii'e 
 or feudal lords, with supreme authority in their own 
 provinces, and liaving under their control thousands of 
 retainers to do their fighting. Before the late change in 
 the government the daimios were required to reside at 
 the capital at least half the year, as hostages or pledges 
 of their adherence to and support of the reigning power ; 
 but since the change they are allowed to reside in their 
 own provinces. 
 
 The mikado, who is now the sui^reme and only ac- 
 knowledged head of the government, formerly had his 
 palace at Miako, the religious capital of the empire ; but, 
 since he has been ackno^vledged as emperor, he has taken 
 up his residence at Tokio. 
 
 The Japanese are quick in apprehension, and willing 
 to learn from others. They are decidedly ingenious, but 
 are wanting in mental vigor as compared with the 
 Chinese, their neighbors. They are, however, exceed- 
 ingl}^ polite and easy in all their intercourse. The people, 
 even in the more retired country districts, have a certain 
 grace, and are as affal^le in their manners, and as polite 
 in their intercourse, as those who dwell in the cities. 
 
 In their shops and houses they are the pattern of 
 neatness and good taste. One may walk for miles through 
 their streets, looking into their dwellings and places of 
 business, which are all open to the gaze of the public, 
 and he will never tire in his admiration of the cleauli- 
 
(50 AROUND THE WO ELD. 
 
 ness wliich prevails, and of tlie regard to tlie arrangement 
 of tlieir various articles offered for sale. 
 
 The dwellings are only fi*om one to two stories in 
 lieiglit, with open fronts. The first floor is commonly 
 used for a shop, in which something is offered for sale. 
 The little gardens in the i-ear attached to their dwellings 
 or places of business are pretty, and as neat as their 
 houses. 
 
 The Jaj^anese generally have fine teeth, but when a 
 woman marries she is compelled by the laws of society 
 to dye her teeth black, and this 2:)rocess is renewed at 
 least once a week. In city or country, wherever we go, 
 we meet the grim smile of women who have fallen into 
 the bonds of matrimony. What was the origin of this 
 custom I do not know, unless it was to designate the 
 married from the unmarried. There is nothing: more 
 distasteful than to see a person with black teeth. 
 
 The men in Japan shave their heads, making a bald 
 spot upon the crown, which likens them to Jesuit priests, 
 while they have a narrow circle of hair around the head. 
 Both men and women shave the eyebrows off smooth, and 
 have the hair carefully plucked out of the ears and nose. 
 The barber is an important functionary, who does his 
 work on the streets, where scores of both sexes may be 
 seen daily sitting upon the sidewalks, having tlieii* heads 
 shaved and hair trimmed. 
 
 The Japanese ladies are generally proud ; the higher 
 class go dressed in their silks of domestic make with 
 theii' faces colored in a modest style ; they wear no stock- 
 ings, but have sandals of mat, and some have wooden 
 
JAPAN. 
 
 61 
 
 slioes. The men and women bear a similar expression, 
 and can only be designated by their dress. They are 
 
 JAPANESE BABBERS. 
 
 small in stature, of a dark-bronze complexion, with small 
 features, and are rather a pretty race of 23eople. 
 
 Many of their customs are very opposite to those of 
 
62 AROUND TEE WORLD. 
 
 other nations. Tlie carpenter, in using the plane, draws 
 it toward him instead of pushing it. It is the same with 
 the saw, which he draws when he wishes to cut. They 
 have their horses and oxen shod with straw mats in- 
 stead of iron, and the streets are strewed with cast-off 
 sandals of the ponies. 
 
 In some of the arts the Japanese are in advance of 
 all other nations. The porcelain of Japan, although it 
 takes its name from the Celestial Empire, is rarely rivaled 
 in China. The lacquer-ware is beyond comparison with 
 the productions of any other country. They excel in 
 working metals, especially in bronzes and in all inlaying 
 work. They also have a great fondness for painting on 
 silk, and drawing. Their books are profusely illustrated 
 with plates highly colored. 
 
CHAPTER VI. 
 
 INLAND SEA OF JAPAN AND YELLOW SEA OF CHINA. 
 
 N'ovemher 10th. — This afternoon at four o'clock we 
 take passage on board the American steamship Golden 
 Age, Captain Furl^er, for Shanghai, China; distance 
 twelve hundred miles, fare sixty-five dollars apiece. We 
 have in company twenty-five first-class passengers. The 
 Golden Age is of the capacity of two thousand tons, and 
 a fine sea-going vessel. Shortly after the ship's anchor is 
 weighed, steaming out the harbor, we get sight of flying- 
 fish with their silver bodies and transparent wings, fleet 
 as birds ; some of them flew from one to two hundred 
 feet before lia-htino;:. This kind of fish were not new to 
 rae, for I had often seen them in the Gulf of Mexico. 
 
 November lltJi. — This forenoon we encountered heavy 
 winds from the northwest and a rough sea, but later in 
 the day, as we approached the numerous small islands, 
 which make up the Inland Sea of Japan, the waters were 
 perfectly clear, without a ripj)le upon their surface. 
 
 November 12th. — This morning, just at the break of 
 day, we arrived in the port of Hiogo, where our ship re- 
 mained at anchor for twenty-three hours, giving the pas- 
 sengers an opportunity of visiting the city. Hiogo is 
 beautifully situated ui:>on a spacious bay, with a back- 
 ground of high, picturesque mountains, and containing 
 
g4 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 one hundred and fifty thousand souls. There are several 
 large English vessels at anchor waiting for cargoes of 
 tea. Hiogo is one of the treaty ports. Osaka is fifteen 
 miles distant, and is the site of the fortified castle of the 
 tycoons, destroyed by fire in the late revolution. It is a 
 city of great wealth, its silk-houses surpassing those of 
 any other city in the empire. Our time being limited, 
 we did not visit Osaka, l)ut occupied ourselves in looking 
 through the ancient city of Hiogo. 
 
 November \2>tli. — At five o'clock this morning I was 
 aroused by the sound of the ship's gun, when the anchor 
 was weighed, and we were soon after steaming through 
 the beautiful Inland Sea. Nature seems to have done more 
 for Japan than for any country in which I have been — 
 its delightful climate, fishing-lakes, and diversified moun- 
 tains, so richly clad with brushwood, occasionally dotted 
 with towns and cities, constantly j^resenting to our gaze 
 a perfect panoramic view. I have seen all the principal 
 lakes in Scotland, Ireland, Switzerland, and America, but 
 this surpasses each of them, and combines the best feat- 
 ures all in one. 
 
 November lUli. — Sabbath. This morning early I was 
 ao-ain aroused from sluml^er by the noise of the ship's 
 gun resounding through the harbor, reverberating among 
 the mountains which overlook the town, and when I 
 went on deck, Captain Furber informed me that we were 
 in the harbor of Shine Sacka, which is entirely landlocked 
 by a high group of mountains formed by the islands of 
 the sea. It was novel to see the natives come off and be- 
 siege the ship witli their canoes, many of them having 
 
INLAND SEA OF JAPAN. 65 
 
 oranges and a variety of other fruits for sale. In tliis 
 section of Japan, upon tlie smaller islands, the land is 
 rich in fertility, but the people are far behin<l the 
 age in agricultural implements. The soil is all dug 
 up with the lioe. I did not see a plough, shovel, nor 
 spade, in the country. They have no barns nor out- 
 houses in which to [)ut their crops ; the grain is thrashed 
 out in the fields, and carried in baskets to their dwellings, 
 in which it is stored. 
 
 At half-past ten o'clock we resume our voyage. We 
 iind a perfect panoramic view of over four hundred miles 
 of the most delightful scenery of ever-charming and never- 
 ending beauties. The weather is both clear and calm. 
 The channel twists around and aniono; the islands in all 
 directions, so that the headlands whicli we pass seem as 
 fleeting as the clouds, j)roducing ever-varying scenery. 
 During one hour we are making our way along under 
 the] deep shadow of some naked precij^ice looming up 
 thousands of feet ; in the next we are passing terraced 
 Mil-sides covered with flowery plains and fields, and 
 forests, in which the bamboo, the tulip, and the cypress 
 commingle. It seems as if the busy poj)ulation of the 
 whole empire has clustered on those romantic shores, and 
 tke fishing-boats may be num1)ered l)y thousands, filled 
 with natives taking fish in great quantities. 
 
 November loth. — About midnight I heard the sound 
 of the ship's gun reecho among the hills and valleys, 
 which indicated our arrival in the port of Nagasaki. 
 Early in the morning we went on shore and called on 
 Mr. Mangum, the American consul, who kindly offered 
 
6Q 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 his services to show ns about tlie town, but we being- 
 accompanied by Dr. Painter, wlio had formerly lived 
 here and could speak the language, declined, thanking 
 him for his kind offer. 
 
 Nagasaki is very beautifully situated at the base of 
 the mountains, sloping gradually down to the sea, and 
 
 NAGASAKI HARBOR. 
 
 containing a population of about one hundred thousand. 
 Our ship stopped here part of two days, affording us an 
 opportunity to visit the town and surroundings, which 
 will rival in grandeur and diversified scenery any city 
 that I have been in. 
 
 Novemher IQth. — This morning, in company with Mr. 
 
THE YELLOW SEA. 67 
 
 and Mrs. Kunnels and Dr. Painter, we take a ramble over 
 tlie cit}'. Soon after leaving the English settlement, we 
 find ourselves in the ancient town, ^^'hich in character is 
 purely Oriental, where we visit shop after shop looking 
 at fancy articles, of which turtle-shell is one of the 
 specialties. At twelve o'clock we hear the sound of the 
 ship's gun to notify the passengers to be in readiness. 
 We accordino-ly hasten on board, and in a few moments 
 the anchor is weighed, and our noble ship steaming out 
 of the harbor. We soon approach and pass by Takaboko 
 Island, which is more like a huo-e rock loomino;out of the 
 sea, and has a melancholy history. At the close of the 
 sixteenth century, when the introduction of Christianity 
 by the Jesuits excited the apprehension of the Japanese 
 Government, and when the order was given to exterminate 
 the foreign religion by a bloody persecution, many thou- 
 sands of Christians fied to this island for a last refuge ; 
 they were pursued by the natives, and those who escaped 
 the sword were driven into the sea and perished in the 
 waters ; and a large number of natives were afterward 
 arrested and condemned to death or servitude for ad- 
 herence to that faith. 
 
 Our stay in Japan of some two or three weeks was 
 highly enjoyed by us. As we look back over its land- 
 scape, it is with regret tliat our stay could not have been 
 prolonged, and no country will be remembered by us 
 with more interest than Japan. 
 
 November 17 fh.- — This morning we find ourselves in 
 the Yellow Sea, out of sight of land. Weather clear; 
 thermometer 71° ; wind fresh from the northwest ; course 
 
68 AROUXD THE WORLD.] 
 
 west. Here we meet the yellow-colored waters, some 
 two liuudred miles from land, wliicli have their source 
 from the Yaug-tse-kiang River, one of the largest rivers 
 of the East, and said to be thirtv-five hundred miles 
 in leno'th, and navio;able for laro;e river-steamers for 
 nearly one thousand, and for smaller class two thousand, 
 miles. It is the constant washing away of its yello^v 
 clay-banks coloring the waters, ebbing to the ocean, 
 which constitutes the Yellow Sea. Soon after leavino- 
 these yellow waters we enter Woosung Kiver, on which 
 Shano'hai is situated, about twelve miles from its mouth. 
 At the entrance we passed by a long range of earth- 
 works — one of the Chinese forts — guarded by a large 
 force of soldiers, and in front lie sf'veral English war- 
 vessels, among which I saw two American men-of-war, 
 for the protection of English and American commerce, 
 and also a large fleet of Chinese war-junks, doubtless 
 built after the model that was most approved over a 
 thousand years ago. 
 
 At 2 p. M. we arrive in Shanghai ; here we undergo 
 an examination of our baggage by custom-house officials 
 and then take quarters in the Central Hotel, board two 
 dollars and a half per day. 
 
CHAPTER VII. 
 
 SHANGHAI TO HONG-KONG. 
 
 JSFavemher ISth. — Shano-liai is one of tLe lame sea- 
 port towns of China for the shipment of tea ; it contains 
 a population of three hundred thousand. The streets 
 are narrow, and kept tolerably clean for an Oriental 
 town literally filled ^vith people. Here we see a differ- 
 ent peoj)le, and hear a different dialect spoken, from those 
 of Japan. 
 
 The recent events which have taken place in Japan 
 and India have drawn public attention to the Chinese 
 Empire more than ever before. Her neighbors, both 
 Japan and India, are building and extending their rail- 
 roads, to which China has been opposed. The changes 
 now initiated by her close neighbors will compel China 
 ere long to fall in with the demands of foreign powers, 
 or else her rulers will gradually be driven away, and 
 give place to others more in unison with the new order 
 of things. There are, however, great vitality and self- 
 support in her institutions, and in the peaceful industry 
 of the mass of the Chinese people, and these features of 
 their personal and national character furnish grounds 
 of hope that they will adapt themselves to the march of 
 improvement. 
 
70 AROUND TEE WORLD. 
 
 The Cliinese census of 1839 gave a population of 
 four liundred and fifteen million ; during the last twenty- 
 years, however, civil wars, famine, and pestilence, have 
 probably reduced the population to about three hundred 
 and seventy-five million. Even at this estimate it is 
 nearly ten times that of the United States, and about 
 one-third of the earth's inhabitants is found in this em- 
 pire. The origin of the Chinese, from the best light we 
 have, appears to be as follows : During the first century 
 after the confounding of tongues, five or six nomadic 
 tribes from the region southeast of the Caspian Sea made 
 their way eastward, seeking out the best-watered and 
 most productive places, and finally settled along the 
 banks of the Yang-tse-kiang River, in the central and 
 western portion of what is now the Chinese Empire. 
 Therefore China has existed almost from the time of the 
 confusion of tongues, and has had a consolidated gov- 
 ernment or nationality for nearly three thousand years. 
 Other ancient nations, as the Assyrians, Babylonians, 
 Egyj)tians, Persians, and Greeks, all rose and flourished 
 for a time, but at length became extinct, and the moul- 
 derino; ruins of their renowned cities alone tell of their 
 former greatness. Later empires, as the Syrian and Ro- 
 man, rose, had their period of prosperity and power, and 
 long since fell into decay. But here stands China to- 
 day, unmoved by the waves of time, existing through all 
 the long ages, with her system of government, her laws, 
 her arts, her habits and customs, unchanged. A won- 
 derful nation that, thus to withstand the shock of re- 
 peated bloody revolutions, and changes of rulers, and 
 
SHANGHAI TO HOKG-KONG. 71 
 
 remain tlie same amid all national vicissitudes for so 
 many ages. At tlie departure of the Hebrews from 
 Egy{)t, China was already about seven hundred years 
 old; when Isaiah prophesied Israel's future conversion 
 to God, China had existed fifteen centuries. 
 
 Some idea of the vast extent of the Chinese Empire 
 may be obtained by considering its line of sea-coast, 
 running nearly three thousand miles, having an area of 
 about five million square miles, its magnificent rivers, 
 the largest of which is the Yang-tse-kiang, being thirty- 
 five hundred miles in length, the third river in the world, 
 and draining a basin of about eight hundred and fifty 
 thousand square miles. 
 
 The Chinese have more streno-th of intellect, more 
 solidity of character, and a higher civilization, than any 
 other heathen nation. This is shown by their formation 
 of a wise system of government, and an able code of 
 laws ; by their invention of the art of manufacturing silk 
 fabrics^ \vhich, near the commencement of the Christian 
 era, were sold to the Romans for their w^eight in gold ; 
 also, by the manufacture of porcelain and china ware, the 
 best in the world ; by the invention and use of gunj)0w- 
 der, and the magnetic needle ; and by the invention of 
 the art of printing, five hundred years before it was 
 known in the West. They have good mental powers, 
 which is shown by their extensive literature. As an 
 indication of their intellectual ability, the fact may be 
 mentioned that the few Chinese who have been educated 
 in European and American colleges and universities have 
 acquitted themselves with honor. A few years since a 
 
72 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 Chinaman in Yale College bore off the first prize in his 
 class for merit in English composition. 
 
 No science is taught in their schools ; their literary 
 men are utterly ignorant of the natural sciences, and of 
 the geography and history of other countries. In their 
 view, the earth is a plain occupied chiefly by China ; the 
 sun and stars revolve around the earth ; the rain and 
 the tides are caused by dragons ; the mnd by tigers ; 
 sickness by evil spirits. Their strength of character is 
 manifest in their firm adherence to the opinions and prin- 
 ciples which they adopt, and those ideas into which they 
 have been educated. The stability of their character is 
 strikingly observable in their aversion to change ; they 
 strictly adhere to the same principles which their forefa- 
 thers taught thousands of years ago. 
 
 November 19t7i. — The money in China is in taels (one 
 tael is equal in value to one dollar and thirty-three cents 
 of American coin) ; they also have bank-bills of their own 
 make, and there are in circulation a great many Mexican 
 and American trade-dollars, which go at their par value, 
 but American gold is at a discount. 
 
 In drawing money from the banks, both in Japan and 
 China, application is first made to the president or cashier 
 of the institution, who are English ; they give an order 
 upon the natives who are in attendance, called compra- 
 dores, in a separate room, who handle and pay over the 
 cash. Instead of their making figures and accounts upon 
 paper, they have a small flat box in which there are some 
 four or five rows of knobs strung on cords of wire, with 
 which they can work out the most intricate sum with 
 
SHANGHAI TO HONG-KONG. 73 
 
 accuracy; and even in their stores and places of business 
 the accounts are reckoned by the same method in the 
 shortest possible space of time. 
 
 Shanghai is a walled city, three miles in circuit, 
 through which six gates open to the wide plain upon 
 which it is situated, fronting on the river Woosung. The 
 banks of the river are covered with dwellings, temples, 
 shops, etc., among which is to be seen the Queen of 
 Heaven, a conspicuous object. 
 
 The river, stretching along the front of the city, is 
 literally filled with junks, some gliding down the stream, 
 others sailing up ; some moving by oars, and others lying 
 at anchor. Shanghai is one of the first ports opened by 
 the treaty of 1842, and previous to that time was little 
 visited by foreigners, but has become the chief foreign 
 commercial city of the empire; by this change, Canton 
 has fallen off from her former greatness, both for the ship- 
 ment of teas and other commodities. Shanghai was capt- 
 ured by the Taepiug rebels in 1853, and held for two 
 years, when they retreated from this part of China; and 
 while the rebels were making bloody havoc in other parts 
 of the empire there was a large influx of people to this 
 city for protection and residence, which is one of the 
 causes of its more rapid growth. 
 
 November ^Oth. — This evening we spent at the resi- 
 dence of Mr. Coryell, formerly of New York. Mr. and 
 Mrs. Coryell, with compliments, sent a carriage for us, 
 and we were cordially received by them. At ten o'clock 
 dinner was served ; after partaking of the hospitalities of 
 the occasion, we returned to the hotel about midnight. 
 
 6 
 
74 AROUND TEE WO ELD. 
 
 November ^\8t. — Sabbath. This forenoon, in going to 
 church, we met two companies of sailors from off a British 
 man-of-war, under the command of their respective officers, 
 neatly clad, accompanied by a band playing sacred music 
 upon the fife and drum, marching to the English church. 
 On the one side the officers and soldiers were seated, and 
 on the other the congregation. If this were done in the 
 case of American war-vessels, as a rule, it would keep the 
 sailors and soldiers ft*om the numerous dens of vice and 
 dissipation. 
 
 November 22<^. — To-day we devote principally to 
 shopping, which is really amusing. Almost every dwell- 
 ing has a shop on the first floor, with open front, where 
 all kinds of toys of native manufacture may be pur- 
 chased ; the inmates sit flat upon the floor, making up 
 such articles as they offer for sale. 
 
 November 23^/. — To-day we called upon Mr. Seward, 
 the American consul, but did not see him. He has been 
 stationed at this post for several years, and the people 
 spoke very highly of him. He was confined to his resi- 
 dence by sickness. Mr. and Mrs. Coryell dined with us 
 this afternoon at the Central Hotel. 
 
 November ^Mli. — We had purposed to visit Peking 
 before leaving Shanghai for the r.outh, but were advised 
 not to undertake the journey, as it was late in the season, 
 and we might be frozen in. We regretted not being able 
 to reach the capital, but it is just as well to see a few 
 Chinese cities as many, for they all bear a strong resem- 
 blance to each other. Before reaching Shanghai we had 
 thought seriously of going up the Yang-tse-kiang River ; 
 
SHANGHAI TO HONG-KONG. 7,5 
 
 we found splendid American-built steamers witli good ac- 
 commodations, making regular trips, but, having been so 
 much on water, upon previous tours, we thought that it 
 would be more desirable to devote the time upon the land. 
 November 2^tJi. — To-day Mr. Coryell invited us to 
 take a sail with him in his steam-yacht. Our company 
 consisted of Mr. and Mrs. Coryell, ]\Ir. and Mrs. Runnels, 
 and Mrs. Winants and myself. We left the dock in front 
 of our hotel about ten o'clock in the forenoon. As we 
 steam up the river we pass by numerous junks, some at 
 anchor, others sailing both up and down the river. After 
 havins: ascended the river for several miles, we enter one 
 of the canals and go back into the country. At length 
 we land in a small Chinese village, literally filled with 
 women and children. We did not see many men ; 
 they were probably at work in the fields. Our ladies 
 attracted their attention ; the women took hold of and 
 examined their clothing as if they were the first people 
 of the kind that they had ever seen. They plucked off 
 .some bunches of wild-flowers and presented them to us, 
 for which we gave in return some coins. Here stands 
 one of the oldest, if not the largest, Chinese pagodas in 
 the empire. This pagoda, like all others in China, is oc- 
 tagonal in shape, seven stories high. We ascended flights 
 of circular steps to the upper story, whence we obtained 
 a splendid view of the surrounding country, dotted with 
 towns and hamlets as far as the eve could extend. The 
 country is as level as the sea, with canals running in 
 every direction. We had our lunch served on board the 
 yacht, and arrived in Shanghai late in the afternoon. 
 

 76 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 November 2^t}t. — This morning early we gather up 
 movables, and take passage on board the French steam- 
 ship Hoogly, for Hong-Kong; distance eight hundred 
 and seventy miles, fare fifty-four taels apiece, equal to 
 seventy-two dollars of American coin, being the highest 
 fare for the distance that I have ever paid in any part of 
 the world. The distance is about the same as between 
 New York and Savannah, which is only twenty dollars in 
 gold. We have in company several passengers, mostly 
 gentlemen of business. 
 
 November 2^th. — On the Pacific Ocean, weather good, 
 wind light from northwest and fair ; ship under full sail 
 sea smooth, course west-southwest. Thermometer Qb 
 Latitude 27° 30' north, longitude 1 1 9° 28' east. Ship ran, 
 from yesterday up to 12 m., three hundred and twenty-four 
 miles. By carrying the French mail, they drive the ship 
 to her fullest capacity in order to make quick time. We 
 cross hundreds of junks at sea, out of sight of the land, 
 taking fish with nets ; these nets are from one to one 
 hundred and fifty fathoms in length, and about ten feet 
 in width, with small sinkers made of lead on one side of 
 the net to sink it below the water's surface, and corks 
 on the upper side to keep it on the surface. When it 
 is thrown from the boat on a circular line, another 
 boat takes hold of the far end, and so the net is drawn 
 through the sea till the boats come together ; then the 
 net is hauled into the boats with the fishes. These fish- 
 ing-junks are excellent sea-going craft, and remain at sea 
 for several months ; they contain entire families, consist- 
 ing of men, women, and children. 
 
SHANOHAI TO HONG-KONG. 77 
 
 November ^^th. — On the Pacific Ocean, wind light 
 from northwest ; weather charming. Thermometer 68°. 
 Sea smooth, course west-southwest ; ship under full sail. 
 Latitude 23° 30' north, longitude 115° 46' east. Made 
 twq^ hundred and ninety-iive miles up to 12 m. 
 
 November 2\)th. — This forenoon, at ten o'clock, we 
 arrive in the port of Hong-Kong, having been three days 
 on our passage from Shanghai. The ship drops anchor 
 off in the stream. In landing we are surrounded by 
 small boats, called sampans. In the midst of great 
 bustle and confusion we succeed in getting our luggage 
 into one of the boats, and soon find ourselves landed 
 upon the bund, and make our way to the Hong-Kong 
 Hotel ; board two dollars and a half per day each. 
 
CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 HONG-KONG. 
 
 November SOth. — Hong-Kong is an island adjacent to 
 tlie mainland, containing a population of one hundred 
 and twenty thousand, and very mountainous ; there is 
 scarcely a level acre upon the whole island. There is a 
 little spot about a mile from the city, called the Happy 
 Valley, which has been appropriated for a race-course ; 
 above these sporting-grounds on the side of the hills, 
 upon rising ground, are several cemeteries for the Eng- 
 lish and Roman Catholics. The island is made up of 
 lofty peaks, one of which, Victoria Peak, overhangs the 
 towTi, and from whose summit one could almost throw a 
 stone into the streets. It looms up eighteen hundred and 
 thirty feet above the city. The view from the peak 
 affords a sight of the entire city and a great part of the 
 island. The peak is ascended in sedan-chairs, each chair 
 carried by four coolies, and it requires an hour to reach its 
 summit. The city is built along and in front of the har- 
 bor, in terraces rising one above another, until the upper 
 tier is reached, some three or four hundred feet in height. 
 Many of the dwellings are palaces, and the public build- 
 ings would do honor to any city. The governor's resi- 
 dence, which stands back upon one of the upper streets 
 
HONG-KONG. 79 
 
 overlooking tlie city, is a fine mansion. The City Hall 
 is another fine structuve. 
 
 Hong-Kong is one of the free ports of China, and is 
 principally settled by the English. It is divided into 
 two parts, the natives occupying one section and the 
 English the other. Victoria is the English name of the 
 town, although abroad it is commonly called IIong-Kong. 
 It is one of the chief foreign cities on the China coast, 
 and is visited by more ships than any other. It is said 
 to be a sort of posting station for the Avhole Eastern 
 world. Ships of all nationalities are lying in poi't, wait- 
 ing for orders from their owners, while others are dis- 
 charging and taking in their cargoes. It being an Eng- 
 lish colony, shipmasters feel more safe than they did a 
 few years ago, when for any trifling offense the natives, 
 becoming displeased, would scuttle or burn the ships, 
 and often murder the crews. 
 
 December Xst. — To-day we made a call upon Mr. 
 Baily, the American consul, who courteously received us 
 and gave much information as to the manners and cus- 
 toms of the people, and who kindly offered his services 
 to do anything that would best facilitate oar move- 
 ments. 
 
 We visited the Colonial Prison, where some four or 
 five hundred criminals of various nationalities are con- 
 fined. I have never seen a penitentiary more neatly 
 kept, and seemingly under better management. Among 
 the prisoners were several Chinese women, who had 
 been convicted of child-stealing, which is a very common 
 crime in China. These female convicts are compelled to 
 
80 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 stand erect upon their feet, and toe a straiglit line, for 
 several hours each day. The male convicts are punished 
 according to the different grades of crime : those con- 
 fined for stealing are compelled to pick up a cannon-ball 
 weighing twenty-four pounds, carry it for some three or 
 four paces, then lay it down for the space of one minute, 
 and continue the performance for three hours each day ; 
 others go in couples with the end of a bamboo-stick rest- 
 ing on each one's shoulder, from the centre of which is 
 suspended a stone of eighty pounds' weight ; others are 
 compelled to turn a mill by hand, which has to make a 
 certain number of revolutions before they can have 
 their meals. We saw some who had been incarcerated 
 for non-payment of debt, for which the complainants 
 had to pay five cents per day for the prisoner's main- 
 tenance. For some offenses they are scourged with 
 twenty-five lashes upon their bare backs, while those 
 convicted of murder have their heads cut oft'. The super- 
 intendent of the prison invited us to call on the follow- 
 ing day to witness the scourging of some prisoners, and 
 the execution of those who had incurred the penalty 
 of death. 
 
 Mr. Baily, the American consul, through Captain 
 Low, one of our fellow-passengers from Shanghai, invited 
 us to take a sail around the island. We accepted the 
 invitation ; but, when the time had arrived to leave the 
 dock, Mr. Baily sent word that he could not go, on ac- 
 count of some unexpected business that required his 
 attention. Captain Low took command of the little 
 steam-yacht. We first visited the navy-yards and the 
 
HONG-KONG. 31 
 
 dry-docks, and some of the public institutions upon the 
 neighboring islands ; then we proceeded to view the 
 spot where the steamship Alaska was, by the typhoon 
 of 1874, picked up and blown high and dry upon the 
 shore, where she lay for nearly two months. We had 
 in our company a very interesting party of ladies and 
 gentlemen, all highly enjoying the excursion. 
 
CHAPTER IX. 
 
 CANTON AND ITS SIGHTS. 
 
 December 2d. — This morning at eight o'clock we take 
 passage on board the side-wheel steamer White Cloud, 
 of American build, for Canton, distance ninety miles; 
 fare for the round trip, up and down, eleven dollars. 
 Our course for forty-five miles — half of our voyage — lay 
 among sea-islands, giving us only occasional glimpses of 
 the mainland. We then enter the deep river, the banks 
 of which are lined with forts. These works, before the 
 Opium War, were regarded by the Chinese authorities 
 as a reliable defense. The English, having captured 
 them, stipulated that they should not again be garri- 
 soned ; they are now falling into ruin. Therefore Can- 
 ton, the southern capital of China, is absolutely defense- 
 less, with a British naval and military force at its very 
 door. Whampoa is some fifteen miles down the river, 
 below Canton, where large ships are moored to take in 
 heavy cargoes of merchandise. The river-banks, above 
 Whampoa, present scenes of tropical luxuriance and 
 beauty. The valley expands, as far as the eye can reach, 
 and is covered with sugar-plantations, banana and orange 
 groves, and occasionally we pass by a tea-plantation, and 
 on some of the higher ground near the city may be seen 
 pagodas. 
 
CANTON AND ITS SIGHTS. g^ 
 
 At three o'clock in the afternoon we arrived in the 
 city of Canton, and, by the time our steamer's anchor 
 had touched the bottom, we were surrounded by swarms 
 af small boats called sampans j they were covered over 
 with bamboo-tops, which are adapted to keep off both 
 sun and rain. They were all manned by women, one of 
 whom at once caught up my baggage and ran off with 
 it. The crowd being so great, and the confusion per- 
 plexing, I thought at the moment that I should lose my 
 property. I ran after the woman, crossing over boat 
 after boat, until she made a halt, when I asked her what 
 she intended to do with my satchel. She answered in 
 broken English that I should go with her, as she kept 
 the hotel. Finally, I said that, if she would wait till 
 I hunted up the ladies who had been lost in the crowd,, 
 we would take passage in her boat. She was barefooted 
 and bareheaded, but what little clothing she had on was 
 clean, her hair well dressed and trimmed with orna- 
 ments, and she possessed a bright and cheerful coun- 
 tenance, with an easy address. After our company of 
 four were seated in her little craft, which was neat and 
 clean, she bent herself to the oars, and in a few moments 
 we were landed alongside of the dock. After ascending 
 a half-dozen or more stone steps we found ourselves in 
 the hotel, fronting on the river. The house was fear- 
 fully ancient, at least a thousand years old ; the rooms 
 were more like barns than bedchambers. We soon suc- 
 ceeded in getting the choicest apartments in the house, 
 at two dollars and a quarter per day. I asked the pro- 
 prietor, who could speak English enough to be under- 
 
84 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 stood, if the woman who brought us from the steamer 
 kept the hotel ; he laughingly replied that this was the 
 International Hotel, and that the woman who brought 
 us from the steamer was his boat-woman. When the 
 gong sounded for tiffin, we found the table much better 
 supplied than we expected, and the entertainment as 
 good as, if not better than, we had received in more 
 modern hotels. 
 
 The city of Canton is beautifully situated on the 
 banks of the Pearl River, on low and flat land, but in 
 the distance high hills are visible. The city proper is 
 inclosed by walls of from six to seven miles in circum- 
 ference, having a partition wall, running east and west, 
 which divides it into two unequal parts. The entire 
 circuit, including the suburbs, is over ten miles. The 
 population, on land and water, is reported to be about 
 one million. Of this number about one-third are sup- 
 posed to reside in boats upon the water. The multitude 
 of boats and junks which throng the river makes it dif- 
 cult to navigate. There are at least as many houses 
 outside the walls as within them. It is said that the 
 city is rapidly increasing. The houses stretch along on 
 both sides of the river, a distance of from three to four 
 miles, and the banks are everywhere nearly concealed 
 by the boats, which are of all sizes. 
 
 We learn from the most reliable authority that the 
 city of Canton was settled about two centuries before 
 Christ, but traders were located here even prior to that 
 time. It grew in importance as the country became 
 better settled, and in the seventh century a regular mar- 
 
CANTON AND ITS SIGHTS. 35, 
 
 ket was opened and a collector of customs appointed. 
 When the Mantchoos invaded and overran the countr}', 
 this city was finally captured by treachery, and one hun- 
 dred thousand men were killed at its sack, and tlie whole 
 number who lost their lives at the final assault and dur- 
 ing the siege was over half a million. Since then Canton 
 has been rebuilt, and so increased in prosperity that it 
 is now regarded as the second city in the empire for 
 numbers, and next to Peking for wealth. 
 
 The foundations of the city walls are of sandstone, 
 and their upper part brick ; they are about twenty feet 
 thick, and range from twenty-five to forty feet high, hav- 
 ing an esplanade on the one side, and pathways leading 
 to the ramparts on the other. 
 
 The houses are built very near the wall, on both 
 sides of it, so that one hardly sees it when walking 
 around the city, except on the north. There are twelve 
 outer gates, four in the partition walls, and water-gates 
 through which boats pass, from east to west, across the 
 new part of the city. A ditch, or moat, once encom- 
 passed the city walls, said to have been filled with water, 
 but which is now dry. The canals within the city's in- 
 closure are filled with the tide-water from the river. 
 The inhabitants are supplied with water for washing 
 from these canals and the river, and drinking-water is 
 plentifully furnished from many sj^rings and wells. The 
 gates of the city are all shut at night, and a guard is 
 constantly stationed at them to preserve order. Some 
 of the principal gates are named thus : Great Peace Gate, 
 Eternal Eest Gate, Bamboo Gate, Wicket Gate, etc. 
 
86 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 The appearance of the city, when viewed from the 
 hills on the north, is uninviting, compared with Western 
 •cities, being an expanse of reddish roofs relieved by a 
 few large trees, and interspersed with numerous high 
 red poles used for flag-staffs. A number of pagodas 
 shoot up within the walls, looming to the height of from 
 five to seven stories. We ascended one of the highest. 
 From this great elevation the river is a prominent feat- 
 ure in the landscape, covered with a great diversity of 
 boats of diflerent colors and sizes, some stationary, others 
 moving, and all resounding with the mingled hum of 
 laborers, sailors, children, and boatmen, pursuing their 
 several sports and occupations. A fort called Dutch 
 Folly, or Sea Pearl by the natives, is situated on a little 
 island in the river, covered with trees and build insis. 
 Still farther can be seen, on the southern side of the 
 river, the island of Hainan, and beyond green fields, cov- 
 ered with rich vegetation, while the grand old river, 
 winding its way to the ocean, looks like a silver thread 
 at the feet of the beholder. The hills to the north of 
 the city rise twelve hundred feet above the river, and 
 for several miles are covered with graves and tombs; 
 little or no vegetation can be seen upon them from our 
 point of observation. Three or four forts are built on 
 eligible spots nearest the northern walls. 
 
 The streets are too nari'ow to be seen from our ele- 
 vated position ; they are from seven to ten feet in width, 
 twist about in every conceivable way, and number more 
 than six hundred. The names of some of the streets are 
 characteristic, as Martial Street, Dragon Street, Pearl 
 
z 
 
 c 
 
 h 
 
 < 
 
CANTON AND ITS SIGHTS. ^f^ 
 
 Street, Golden-Flower Street, New Green-Pea Street, 
 Physic Street, Spectacle Street, etc. They are kept tol- 
 erably clean, considering the number of pedestrians who 
 fill them to their fullest capacity. 
 
 The houses along the river-front are built upon piles 
 driven into the ground, and it is said that when the 
 waters rise, as in the time of freshets, that part of the 
 city adjacent to the river is inundated. 
 
 We were carried through the city in sedan-chairs, 
 each one of our party in a separate chair, which is sus- 
 pended between long poles and carried by two coolies, 
 one of them in front and the other behind the sedan. 
 We were accompanied by an experienced guide, who 
 was educated in the diiferent languages expressly to 
 enable him to perform his duties intelligently while con- 
 ducting strangers about the city. We visited all the 
 principal places in this mysterious city, through lanes 
 and dark places, without being in any wise molested. 
 By the shopkeepers, from whom we purchased some 
 ^small articles, we were cordially treated, and yet the 
 natives eyed us as if we were the first strangers they 
 had seen. 
 
 We saw sights peculiar and foreign to all the out- 
 side world. We could not venture alone into the streets, 
 one hundred yards from our palace hotel, for fear of be- 
 ing lost. Some of the streets are perfect bazaars, the 
 shops on either side being filled with costly articles well 
 arranged for eifect : rich silks, ivory, jewelry, and fancy- 
 work of all kinds ; and over every door may be seen an 
 image of Joss, or some one of their gods. All the prin- 
 
88 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 cipal streets are hung with gay banners, suspended from 
 the tops of the houses and from the fronts of the shops, 
 forming a complete canopy, shutting out the light of the 
 sun. The signs, which are gaudy, stand upright, and 
 with their bright colors give a pretty aspect to both the 
 streets and buildings. The noisy tide of human beings 
 constantly surging hither and thither through these nar- 
 row avenues, on foot and in sedan-chairs, with coolies 
 carrying burdens of all kinds, blockaded the streets at 
 intervals, and brought us to a stand ; but, at length, we 
 managed by hard squeezing to force our way through 
 the busy and chattering crowd. 
 
 The Buddhist temple called Hai-chwang, opposite 
 the foreign factories, and commouly.known as the Honan 
 Joss-house, is one of the largest in Canton. Its grounds 
 cover about seven acres, surrounded by a high wall, and 
 divided into courts, gardens, and burial-ground, where 
 are deposited the ashes of the priests, whose bodies are 
 first burned. The architectural designs of the buildings 
 present nothing worthy of note, consisting mostly of 
 cloisters or apartments surrounding a court; within is 
 a temple or pavilion. The buildings are overshadowed 
 by large trees, the resort of thousands of birds. The 
 outer gateway opens upon the street on the river-front, 
 and leads up a gravel- walk to a high portico guarded by 
 two huge figures, through which we enter a small in- 
 closure, separated from the larger one by another spa- 
 cious porch, in which are four large statues. From here 
 we are conducted to the main temple, a low building 
 about one hundred feet square, surrounded by pillars ; 
 
CANTON AND ITS SIGHTS. 
 
 89 
 
 it contains three gilded images in a sitting posture, called 
 San, Pan, and Full, or the past, present, and future 
 Buddha, each of them ])eing about twenty feet high, 
 surrounded by numerous altars and smaller images. 
 Daily prayers are chanted before them by a large body 
 
 ■ii^^i.\ .^M^x-j ^S:m^i 
 
 ^^0^^^^^^0S^ 
 
 ENTRANCE TO THE TEMPLE OP HONAN. 
 
 of people and j^riests, all dressed in yellow robes, who 
 go through the performance with great pomp and regu- 
 larity. Beyond this is a small building, which contains 
 a marl)le repository bearing somewhat the resemblance 
 
 of a pagoda, under which, rumor says, is preserved one 
 
 7 
 
90 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 •1 
 
 of the toe-nails of Buddha, the relic being deeply ven- 
 erated by the devoteef^. This court contains numerous 
 shrines and offices for the accommodation of the priests, 
 among which are the printing-office and library, both of 
 them respectable for size. 
 
 There are one hundred and seventy-five priests con- 
 nected with this establishment, only a portion of whom 
 can read and write. They eat no flesh of any kind, red 
 rice being their principal food. In one part of the tem- 
 ple-grounds there is a spot appropriated to the reception 
 of swine, which are fed so long as they live. 
 
 Besides the Honan Temple, there ^ are two others in 
 the old city belonging to Buddha. One of them, called 
 Kwang-hian, or Temple of the Glorious Filial Duty, con- 
 tains two hundred priests, who are supported from the 
 lands belonging to the establishment, which are situated 
 outside of the city, containing thirty-five hundred acres. 
 The number of priests in Canton is estimated to be over 
 two thousand, nine-tenths of whom are Buddhists. 
 
 The Chin2:-hwan2:-mian is conceded to be one of the 
 most important religious institutions in Canton, where 
 both rulers and people ofter their devotions for the wel- 
 fare of the city. The superintendent of this institution, 
 I am informed, pays four thousand dollars for the privi- 
 lege of selling candles, incense, etc., to the worshipers. 
 The areas in front of most of the temples are occupied 
 by hucksters, beggars, and idlers. 
 
 The Chinese generally travel by water. In the con- 
 struction and management of their river-craft they are 
 expert and not excelled. Most of the boats in and about 
 
CANTOR AND ITS SIGHTS. 91 
 
 Canton are intended to be the residences of those who 
 navigate them. Only a part of the large fleet of boats 
 seen on the Pearl Kiver at Canton are intended for trans- 
 portation, a great number being designed for fixed resi- 
 dences, and perhaps one-half of them are moored stem- 
 and-stern in rows. They are not obliged to remain where 
 they station themselves, but both the boats and their 
 inmates are under the supervision of a water-police, who 
 register them and point out the position they may occupy. 
 Those that are employed in carrying merchandise, such 
 as tea, salt, flour, etc., are grouped together and more • 
 -easily found. It is reported that nearly fifty thousand 
 boats are registered as belonging to the city of Canton. 
 It would seem incredil)le for such a large number to 
 remain moored in the river at the same time, but doubt- 
 less many of them are at sea. No one who has been at 
 Canton can forget the bustling, noisy, and animating 
 sight upon the river, nor fail to have noticed the good- 
 humored carefulness with which boats of every size pass 
 each other without collision. 
 
 It is difficult to describe the many kinds of vessels 
 found on the Chinese waters. They are furnished with 
 stern-sculls, which move upon a pivot, and are easily 
 propelled amid the crowd. Larger boats are furnished 
 with two or three sculls, which, when not in use, are 
 hauled in upon the side of the vessel. They are also 
 provided with oars, which are fastened by withes and 
 run in a band attached to a large wooden pin. The 
 masts in some of the large cargo-boats have two spars, 
 resting on the gunwales and meeting above, and so ar- 
 
92 
 
 AROUND TEE WORLD. 
 
 ranged as to be hoisted at pleasure ; in those boats de- 
 signed for residences no provision is made for masts, the 
 oars and sculls being sufficient to do the work required. 
 Fishing-boats, lighters, and sea-going vessels, have (me 
 or more permanent masts. In these larger l^oats a wale 
 or framework projects from the side, on which the boat- 
 men walk Avhen poling the vessel. The sails are made 
 of common matting, sewed into a single sheet, and pro- 
 
 TRADING-JTJNK. 
 
 vided with yards at the top aud bottom, and bamboo 
 ribs on the face, which serve to retain the loops that run 
 on the masts, and enable the boatmen to haul them close 
 on the wind. A driver is sometimes placed on the taff- 
 rail, and a small foresail near the bow. No Chinese boat 
 has a bowsprit. 
 
 The internal arrangement of the boat-dwellings is 
 simple, and they are said to be kept cleaner than their 
 houses. The better class are from sixty to eighty feet 
 
CANTON AND ITS SIGHTS. 93 
 
 long, and fifteen to eighteen feet in width, divided into 
 three rooms comprising a kitchen, a phxce to do their 
 work, and a place to sleep. The cooking and washing 
 are performed on the high framework astern, which is 
 admirably contrived for such purposes, having furnaces 
 and other conveniences. By means of awnings and 
 framework the top of the boat also subserves many ob- 
 jects of work or pleasure. Tlie windows are closed with 
 shutters and curtains, and the ^vood-work is fancifully 
 carved and painted. 
 
 A large number of Canton boats are about twenty- 
 five feet long, containing only one room, and are covered 
 with movable mats so contrived as to inclose the whole 
 vessel; they are usually rowed or sculled l)y women, 
 who thus earn a livelihood, while their husbands work- 
 in the city by the day. In these boats whole families 
 are reared, live, and die. The room which serves for 
 passengers by day is a bedroom by night ; a kitchen at 
 one time, a wash-room at another, and a nursery always. 
 The inside of the boats is movable, and when cleaning 
 is to be done the boat is floated on shore, emptied to the 
 skin, turned bottom up and scrubbed, and the whole 
 put to rights in a comparatively short time, and then 
 floated off. 
 
 The lighters are called chop-boats ; some of these 
 occasionally serve for passenger-boats. Those in which 
 tea, salt, and miscellaneous cargoes are transported, are 
 from eighty to ninety feet long, and will carry from two 
 to three hundred tons. The passage-boats are similar 
 in construction to the lighters, with the exception of a 
 
94 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 small cabin for women in the bow. The passengers 
 bring their own bedding, and select a place at night in 
 the main room, where as many sleep as can find places, 
 others accommodating themselves on deck. Man_y of 
 these boats arrive and depart from Canton daily, so 
 loaded down with passengers that they may be com- 
 oared to floatino; ant-hills, or swarms of bees. 
 
 The revenue - officers employ a narrow, sharp-built 
 boat, propelled by forty or fifty rowers, at the rate of 
 twelve to thirteen miles an hour. They are armed with 
 swivels, spears, and pikes ; they are lined on the sides 
 with an array of rattan shields, painted to represent 
 tigers' heads. The smugglers about Canton, who are 
 numerous, have similar-made boats. They don't carry 
 the national flag, but each officer hoists the duplicate of 
 the banner belonging to his own office. Junks carry a 
 great variety of flags, but no private vessel is allowed to 
 hoist the imperial yellow. 
 
 The dwellers on the water are not debarred from liv- 
 ing on shore. A boat can be built cheaper than a brick 
 house, and is equally comfortable ; it pays no ground- 
 rent, is kept clean easier, and is not so liable to fire or 
 depredations from thieves. Most of the boats are con- 
 structed of fir or pine wood, and cost from thirty dollars 
 up to three or four thousand, and much higher prices are 
 paid for sea-boats. Few of them are painted ; the wood 
 is bright, covered with varnish or oil, which gives them 
 rather a pretty appearance ; the seams are calked with 
 bamboo or rattan shavings mixed with oil, and coated 
 with cement. Most of the sailing-craft employed on the 
 
CANTON AND ITS SIGHTS. 95 
 
 river are flat-bottomed, with sharp bows and broad sterns. 
 The stern is open, and the rudder can be hoisted up and 
 through it in shallow water. The anchors are of wood, 
 with iron-bound flukes, and held by cables made of 
 bamboo. 
 
 The junks are larger than the river-craft ; they have 
 three masts, stepped in a framework, supported by stays, 
 but having no yards or shrouds. The original model of 
 a junk is said to be a huge sea-monster ; the teeth at the 
 cut-water and top of the stem define its mouth, while the 
 lono; boards on each side of the bow form the likeness 
 of the head, with eyes painted on them; the masts and 
 sails represent the fins, and the high stern the tail. The 
 cabins look more like niches in a sepulchre than for the 
 accommodation of passengers. The hold has no decks, 
 and is divided into water-tight compartments, a contriv- 
 ance that has its advantao;es when the vessel strikes a 
 rock. The channel-wale is a large beam, and in some 
 junks it projects so much as to give the sides a bulging 
 appearance. The quarter-galleries and framework above 
 the stern are hio-h, and look dauo:erous to the vessel in 
 heavy weather. Many of the new vessels now being- 
 built are fitted and rigged with sails of canvas instead of 
 matting. The native commerce in junks, both up and 
 down the coast, is extensive ; and there has been a con- 
 siderable trade with Japan to the north, and as far south 
 as Hindostan, with which countries it is now somewhat 
 decreasing, for the Chinese merchants are learning that 
 foreign vessels are both safer and cheaper. 
 
 There have been some fearful scenes anions: this float- 
 
96 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 iiig population by tlie typhoons wliicli sweep over the 
 China seas with great force, and which are so destructive 
 to shipping, l)ut seldom reach as far inland as Canton. 
 Not long ago an English ship fell in witli the cargo and 
 crew of a wrecked junk, and saved one hundred and 
 ninety-eight persons out of sixteen hundred. It is said 
 that, a few moments before the typhoon comes on, at in- 
 tervals a slio-ht noise is heard whirlino; around and then 
 stopping, sometimes with great force, and again slow; 
 then fiery clouds collect in the heavens in thick masses ; 
 the thunder sounds deep and heavy, and rainbows ap- 
 pear, forming an unbroken curve with its ends dipped 
 into the sea ; the sea sends back a bellowing sound, and 
 boils with angry surges ; the loose rocks upon the shore 
 dash against each other. When the height and force of 
 the tempest are loose, rain descends, carrying away roofs 
 of houses, and trees are torn up by the roots ; horses and 
 cattle are blown from their feet, and the ships and boats 
 upon the sea are eitlier swamped or blown on dry land, 
 while the inhabitants flee for tlieir lives. Most of the 
 vessels lost upon the coasts of China and Japan are by 
 typhoons. The Chinese dread these gales so much that 
 they have erected a special temple to the typhoon- 
 mother, a goddess, whom they suj)plicate for protection 
 against them. 
 
 Among the princijDal branches of Chinese industry 
 are the growth and preparation of tea, which plant has 
 been most celebrated abroad. The gradual introduction 
 and use of this beverag-e amono* the nations of the West- 
 ern woi'ld, and the important consequences of bringing 
 
CANTON AND ITS SIGHTS. 97 
 
 the nationalities of the civilized world into more intimate 
 intercourse, and opening to the Chinese the blessings of 
 Christian civilization throuo-h this trade, are amono; the 
 most interesting results that have ever flowed from com- 
 merce. The gradual demand for tea encouraged the 
 Chinese to a greater production, and to the taking of 
 foreign articles partly in exchange for it, while the 
 governments of the West have derived much advantage 
 from the duties. The tea-plant is not so much cultivated 
 about Canton as in the north of China ; only a few fields 
 alono; the Pearl Hiver both belo'w and above Canton are 
 seen. Its infusion forms a common beverage of every 
 household for nearly two-thirds of the human race. 
 
 A knowledge of the tea-plant among the Chinese can 
 be traced back to the third century, and its use was in- 
 troduced into Europe in the eighth century. The tea- 
 plant is from three to six feet high, and presents a dense 
 mass of foliage on an infinite number of small twigs, a 
 result of the practice of being cut down. Where it is 
 found wild in the jungles it reaches the height of thirty 
 feet or more. The leaf is of a dark-o-reen color, of an ob- 
 long oval shape, and the flowers are white ; the seeds are 
 like hazel-nuts in size and color, three of them being in- 
 closed in a hard husk, and contain oil ; the oil is said to 
 be acrid and bitter, and is used for various pur2:)oses. The 
 leaves are picked from the plant when three years old, 
 but it does not attain full size before six or seven years, 
 and thrives, according to circumstances, and with care, 
 from fifteen to twenty years, being gradually killed by 
 constantly depriving it of its foliage. By continual 
 
98 AEOUWB THE WORLD. 
 
 pruning, tlie twigs increase, and the quantity of leaves 
 develops the branches, so that the large, healthy shrubs 
 resemble a collection rather than a sino-le bush. The 
 annual product of a single plant of large size is said to 
 be from six to eight ounces, and that a thousand square 
 yards of land contain between three and four hundred 
 plants. 
 
 Three crops of leaves are gathered annually. The 
 first picking is about the middle of April, or whenever 
 the tender leaf-buds begin to open, and while the leaves 
 are still covered with a whitish down; the flowers, 
 though not very numerous, produce the finest tea. The 
 second gathering is about tbe first of May, when the 
 shrubs are covered with full-sized leaves. Chinese writ- 
 ers say that the weather has great influence upon the 
 condition of the leaves, and that an excess or a want of 
 rain mildews or withers them, so as materially to aifect 
 the quality and quantity of the crop. When the proper 
 time has arrived, a large number of hands are engaged 
 to gather the leaves rapidly, giving employment to men, 
 women, and children. The leaves are collected by hand- 
 fuls, by stripping them oif the branches as rapidly as 
 possible, and throwing them into baskets slung around 
 the neck, in which tliey are taken to the storehouses. 
 Each person can on an average pick thirteen pounds of 
 leaves in a day, for which the picker receives about six 
 cents. The third crop is collected about the middle of 
 July, and there is also a fourth gleaning in the latter 
 part of August. The first two crops of leaves make the 
 best tea, and the last two gatherings afford only inferior 
 
CANTON AND ITS SIGHTS. 99 
 
 kinds, seldom imported and used for home consump- 
 tion. The quality of the different kinds of tea depends 
 almost as much upon the mode of curing as upon the 
 nature of the soil, or age of the leaf; some sorts are 
 quite changed in their particular flavor by the curing 
 and mixing processes they undergo. After the leaves 
 are gathered and housed, they are carefully assorted and 
 the yellow and old ones picked out ; then they ai-e thinly 
 spread upon bamboo trays and placed upon frames in 
 the wind, where they remain until the leaves begin to 
 soften ; then they are gently rolled and rubbed until red 
 spots begin to appear, when they are tested by pouring 
 hot water upon them to see if the edge of the leaf turns 
 yellowish. When the leaves have been rolled, they are 
 ready for firing. The iron pan having been previously 
 heated, the workman takes a handful of leaves and 
 sprinkles them upon it, and waits until each leaf pops^ 
 when he brushes them off before they are charred. The 
 pans sit in iron boilers upon mason-work in an inclined 
 position, and at a convenient height in rows, and are 
 heated by means of a flue passing lengthwise under the 
 whole. The heat soon forces the oil out of the leaves, 
 when they crack and soften, and after four or five min- 
 utes are taken out into trays for rolling. This operation 
 is performed upon tables made of split bamboos laid 
 close together, with their round sides up. The work- 
 men take handfuls of the hot leaves and roll and knead 
 them upon the table, in order to drive out the oily green, 
 which fidls through the bamboo sticks upon the floor. 
 After the leaves are thus properly rolled, they are 
 
100 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 shaken out loosely upon trays and exposed to tte air to 
 complete the drying; the object is to dry tliem in the 
 gentlest manner, that they may not lose their brittleness, 
 nor become crisp in the sun. After undergoing this pro- 
 cess of air-drying, they are again thrown in large quan- 
 tities into the pans, which are heated to a less degree 
 than before, and there stirred, in order that all may be 
 equally dried and none be scorched. 
 
 In some parts of China the process here described 
 varies. After the leaves have been put into the firing- 
 2:)an to be subjected, to the heat, then rolled upon the 
 table and exposed to the sun, instead of being returned 
 to the 2^ans they are scattered upon a fine sieve and 
 placed over the same iire, the iron pan having been taken 
 out. This fire is of charcoal, covered with ashes to pre- 
 vent smoking the leaves, and while over it they are 
 slowly turned until thoroughly dried ; they are then 
 removed to coarser sieves, and the fine and coarse leaves 
 in this way partially separated before packing. This 
 mode of drying gives the leaves a greenish cast, varying 
 in degree according to the length of time they are ex- 
 posed to the sun and fire. The common sorts of black 
 tea are left in the sun and air, after the first process of 
 firing and rolling, a much longer time — even for two or 
 three days — until a partial decomposition of the leaves 
 has begun from the eftects of the heating and squeezing 
 they have undergone ; they are, moreover, again thrown 
 into the pans, and rolled and stirred about for a longer 
 time when intended for exportation than when put up 
 for domestic use. 
 
CANTON AND ITS SIGHTS. 
 
 101 
 
 The question lias often T)een discussed wliether black 
 and green teas are made from the same plant, and whether 
 they can be made from each other. I am informed that 
 l)oth black and green are made of the same leaves, the 
 ditfereuce in the color being ascribed to the mode of 
 preparation; green tea is cured more rapidly over the 
 fire than black. 
 
 The opinion prevails that the nervous effects usually 
 experit^nced after drinking green tea are owing to its 
 
 TEA-HOUSE. 
 
 being cured upon coj)per. I am informed that coj^per 
 vessels are never used. In Japan I was in one or two 
 of the largest tea-houses ; there the drying was done in 
 iron vessels, and I did not see a copper one in use. The 
 principal cause of the peculiar taste of green tea is as- 
 cribed to the use of chemical substances to give it the 
 desii^ed color. 
 
 A great part of the tea produced in China is brought 
 
102 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 to Canton, more than a thousand miles from the place 
 of its growth. The Chinese will, no doubt, maintain 
 their supremacy in the tea-trade, notwithstanding the 
 efforts to grow the plant in other countries. The native 
 names given to the various sorts of tea are derived from 
 the names of the districts or places in which it grows. 
 
 December 3d. — Both in China and Japan men may 
 be seen carrying through the streets portable kitchens, 
 suspended from a pole about six feet long, which rests 
 upon their shoulders. On one end is suspended a small 
 stove, and on the other food ; they stop at intervals to 
 deal out to the coolies hot tea and chow. It is also com- 
 mon to see barbers traveling through the streets with a 
 pot of hot water to shave the heads of the coolies, and 
 to plat their cues ; but the men have smooth faces and 
 no whiskers. 
 
 December Mli. — This morning at nine o'clock we take 
 leave of the great Celestial city for Hong-Kong, distance 
 ninety miles. In going down the river we see some fine 
 tea and sugar plantations. The captain of our steamer 
 on the King-Shan informed us that, on leaving port, they 
 lock the second-class passengers below-decks, and keep 
 a sentinel during the voyage pacing the forward deck, 
 watching the gangway. In the main cabin, a number 
 of swords and muskets hung upon the joiner-work, to 
 be used in case the ship should be attacked by pirates, 
 which is a common occurrence in the China seas. 
 
 Only last week, a passenger-boat from up the coast, 
 on her passage to Canton, was attacked by pirates, who 
 killed part of the steamer's crew and plundered the ves- 
 
CANTON AND ITS SIGHTS. IQS 
 
 sel. It is said that the China seas are infested with 
 pirates. These piratical craft are strongly equipped 
 with men having fire-arms, who stay and live at sea 
 until they have taken a prize, when the booty is landed 
 upon one of the lonely islands, some of which are in- 
 habited by cannibals. Both in Japan and China, for the 
 better protection of property and life, the merchant-ves- 
 sels sail in fleets. At three o'clock in the afternoon we 
 arrived in Hong-Kong, and put up at the Hong-Kong 
 Hotel ; board two dollars and a half per day. 
 
 December oth. — This being the Sal)bath, we attend 
 the Union Church, where all the Protestant denomina- 
 tions assemble. The edifice was neat and tolerably well 
 filled. 
 
CHAPTEK X. 
 
 RELIGION OF THE CHI]S^ESE. 
 
 In order to a right understanding of Chinese char- 
 acter and civilization, some knowledge of the system of 
 idolatry which prevails in the empire, and of the relig- 
 ious beliefs of the people, is absolutely necessary ; l)ut 
 the real religious belief and practices of a heathen Y>eo- 
 ple are difficult to describe intelligibly. Men naturally 
 exercise much freedom of thought in such matters ; and, 
 though it is comparatively easy to describe religious 
 ceremonies and festivals, the real l)elief of a pagan peo- 
 ple — that which constitutes their religion, their trust in 
 danger and guide in doubt, their prompter to present 
 action and hope for future reward — is not quickly un- 
 derstood nor easily described. There has been much 
 written upon the religion of the Chinese, and yet no one 
 has very satisfactorily given the true nature of their be- 
 lief, and the intent of their ritual. The reason is owins^ 
 partly to the indefinite ideas of the people themselves 
 upon the character of their ceremonies, and their inability 
 to give a clear notion of them, and partly to the variety 
 of observances found in different parts of the country, 
 and the discordant opinions entertained by those belong- 
 ing to the same sect, so that what is seen in one district 
 is sometimes not known in the one adjacent. 
 
RELIGION OF THE CHINESE. JQS 
 
 There is a state religion in China of very ancient 
 date, which has undergone few modifications in its feat- 
 ures during the long succession of monarch s, and it still 
 retains much of its primitive simplicity. Dr. Morrison 
 observes that the state relio-ion of the Chinese does not 
 consist of doctrines whicli are to be taught, learned, and 
 believed, but of rites and ceremonies ; it is entirely a 
 bodily service, and its ritual is contained in the statistics 
 and code of the empire. The objects of state worship 
 are chiefly things, although persons are also included. 
 Sacrifices are ofl'ered to many objects, viz. : the sun, or 
 great light ; the moon, or night-light ; fire, because it 
 gives both light and heat ; clouds, rain, wind, and thunder, 
 seas and rivers, the goddess of the earth, and many other 
 things. Those who assist the em2:)eror in his ordinary 
 worship, and perform the ceremonies, belong to the im- 
 perial family. When he worships heaven, he wears robes 
 of a blue color, in allusion to the sky ; and when he wor- 
 ships earth, he puts on yellow, to represent clay. So 
 likewise he wears red for the sun, and pale white for 
 the moon. The princes, nobles, and imperial officers 
 who assist the emperor, are clad in their usual court 
 dresses, but neither priests nor women are admitted to 
 witness or allowed to take part in the ceremonies. 
 
 The hieropliants in this worship of Nature, so lauded 
 by some infidels, are required to prepare themselves for 
 the occasion by fasting, ablutions, and change of gar- 
 ments, and keep from touching the dead ; for sickness 
 and death defile, and unfit the mind for holding com- 
 munion with tlie gods. The sacrifices consist of calves, 
 
10(3 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 bullocks, sheep, pigs, and tlie offerings of silk, and many 
 other things ; every one is willing to worship whatever 
 can promise relief or afford assistance. 
 
 The remarks of Confucius upon religious subjects 
 were very brief. He never taught the duty of man to 
 any higher power than the head of the state or family, 
 
 ! 1 1 i ! 1 1 1 1 1 h iT 
 
 'iiiUH' 
 
 S: lilli'i: 
 
 IMAGE OF CONFUCIUS. 
 
 although he supj^osed himself commissioned by Heaven 
 to restore the doctrine and usao;es of the ancient kino;s. 
 He admitted that he did not understand much about 
 the gods, that they were beyond and above the compre- 
 hension of man, and that the obligations upon men were 
 in doing their duty to relatives, and the society in which 
 
RELIGION' OF THE CHINESE. 107 
 
 they moved, rather than in worshiping spirits unknown. 
 He said, ''Not knowing even life, how can we know 
 death ? " His system of materialism captivates his coun- 
 trymen, for it allows great scope for the vagaries of every 
 individual who thinks he understands and can apply it 
 to explain whatever phenomena come in his way : heat 
 and cold, light and darkness, fire and water, mind and 
 matter, every agent, power, and substance, known and 
 supposed, are endued with these principles, and their 
 infinite reactions and varied consequences explained by 
 them. His system is also entirely silent respecting the 
 immortality of the soul, as well as future rewards and 
 punishments. Virtue is rewarded and vice is punished 
 in the individual, or in his posterity, on earth, but of a 
 separate state of existence he and his disciples do not 
 speak. 
 
 In disposing of the existence of superior powers, the 
 philosophers do not shut out all intelligent agencies, but 
 have instituted a class of sages or pure-minded men, who 
 have been raised up from time to time by Heaven, or 
 some other power, as instructors and examples to man- 
 kind ; the ofiice of these holy men, or saints, was to ex- 
 pound the will of Heaven on earth: they did not so 
 much speak their own thoughts as illustrate and settle 
 the principles on which the world should be governed. 
 Of all the saints in the calendar Confucius is the chief. 
 With him are reckoned the early kings,, as Yan and 
 Shun ; but China has produced no one since that would 
 equal him. The deceased emperors of the reigning 
 dynasty are canonized as saints ; every one is willing to 
 
108 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 worship whatever can give relief or afford the greatest 
 assistance ; but all alike fail in satisfying the desire of 
 pardon of sin, and answering the question, " How shall a 
 man be just with his God '{ " for no one of their modes 
 of worship reaches the heart, or convinces the soul of its 
 accountability, or shows it the way to true happiness. 
 
 There is another sect of rationalists founded by 
 Lao-tse. He was born 604 b. c, thirty-four years before 
 Confacius, and is believed to have had white hair and 
 eyebrows at his birth. x\ccording to the account given 
 by Pauthier, who has examined his history with some 
 attention, his parents were poor, and, after reaching 
 mature years, he was appointed librarian by the emperor, 
 when he diligently applied himself to the study of 
 ancient books, and became acquainted with all the rites 
 and histories of former times. The teaching of Lao-tse 
 recommends retirement and contemplation as the most 
 effectual means of purifying the spiritual part of our 
 nature. He says : All material visible forms are only 
 emanations of reason; and reason formed all beings. 
 All the visible parts of the universe, all beings compos- 
 ing it, the heavens and the entire solar system, have been 
 formed of the first elementary matter. Before the birth 
 of heaven and earth, there existed only an immeasurable 
 void space in the midst of darkness and silence. Eeason 
 alone, Lao-tse says, produced one, one produced two, two 
 produced three, and three made all things. All beings 
 repose on the feminine piinciple, and they embrace the 
 male principle ; a kind of fecundating breath keeps up 
 their harmony. He also teaches^the emanation and return 
 
RELIGION OF THE CHINESE. 109 
 
 of all good beings into the bosom of Keason, and their 
 eternal existence therein ; but, if not good, the miseries 
 of successive births and their accompanying sorrows 
 await them. 
 
 One of the most celebrated rationalistic writers is 
 Chwang-toz, a disciple of Lao-tse, from whom his fol- 
 lowers derive more of their opinions than their master 
 himself. His writings have been repeatedly commented 
 upon by members of the fraternity, and are referred to 
 as authoritative. In ancient times small parties of them 
 retired to secluded places to meditate upon virtue. 
 When Confncius visited Lao-tse, he upbraided the sage 
 for his ambition in collecting so many disciples and seek- 
 ing after office, and added that such a course of conduct 
 was more likely to nourish pride than cherish the love 
 of virtue and \visdom. He said the wise man loves ob- 
 scurity, and avoids ambition of office, persuaded that, at 
 the end of life, a man can onlv leave V)ehind such good 
 maxims as he has practised and taught to others. 
 
 Confucius understood his countrymen and his own 
 duty much better than Lao-tse, in doing all he could, by 
 precept and practice, to show the excellence of what he 
 believed to be right and just. 
 
 The priests of this sect are numerous ; they live in 
 temples, cultivating the ground attached to the establish- 
 ment. Some lead a wandering life, and procure a liveli- 
 hood from the sale of chjirms and other small articles. 
 They shave the sides of the head, and coil the rest of the 
 hair in a tuft upon the crown, and are recognized by 
 their slate-colored robes. They study astrology, and 
 
110 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 profess to have dealings with spirits ; and their books 
 contain a great variety of stories of the sect, and of 
 priests who have done wonderful acts by their help. 
 
 Buddhism is the principal religion of China and of 
 the whole of Eastern Asia. According to the best 
 Oriental scholars, Siddhartha, the son of Suddhodana, 
 king of a large territory on the confines of Oude and 
 Nepaul, was born about the beginning of the sixth cen- 
 tury before Christ. At the age of thirty he fled from his 
 father's kingdom and became religious, diligently study- 
 ing the law of the Brahmans. Finding this unsatisfactory, 
 he secluded himself from the world, and for many years 
 occupied himself in endeavoring to discover the cause of 
 thino;s. Havino; at leno-th, as he thouo:ht, succeeded, he 
 cliano-ed his name to Buddha, and devoted the rest of 
 his life to preaching the new gospel, whereby the world 
 was to be led to the knowledge of the truth. His con- 
 verts were many and influential, several of the royal 
 families becoming earnest and devoted to the new religion. 
 Buddha died at the age of eighty years. 
 
 Buddhism has assumed difterent forms iu different 
 countries. A distinction is made between southern 
 Buddhism as it is found in Ceylon and that which prevails 
 in the north of China. The religious books of northern 
 Buddhism are in Sanskrit ; those of southern Buddhism 
 are in Pali, a language of more recent origin. The north- 
 ern Buddhists have also added books, and dialectics, not 
 known elsewhere. 
 
 In Thibet the system is connected with a religious 
 hierarchy, exercising political power, at the head of which 
 
RELIGION OF THE CHINESE. -[ \ ] 
 
 is the grand lama, wlio is regarded as tlie iuc-arnation of 
 Buddha. AVhen the grand Lima dies, the priests fix 
 upon some infant into whose body the spirit of the de- 
 ceased lama is supposed to have passed, and the infant 
 becomes the next grand lama. But in China no such 
 religious hierarchy has been tolerated, and Buddhism ex- 
 ists without lamas. 
 
 The distinctive characteristic of the Buddhist system 
 is a belief in a benevolent deity, whose special object 
 and care it is to save men from sin and its evil conse- 
 quences ; and also in the doctrine of the transmigration 
 of souls, and the efficacy of good works. In accordance 
 with these doctrines, Buddhism consists of prayers to the 
 numerous gods, for the anticipated wants of the saints in 
 Hades, and also for deceased relatives and friends. 
 
 Temples erected to the worship of this deity are found 
 in every part of the empire, and are numerous, costly, 
 and imposing. The theory of Buddhism requires its 
 temples to be Ijuilt in retired places among the hills, for 
 the sake of the quiet and seclusion which such places 
 afford. Acct)rdingly, most of the temples connected with 
 this sect, which are not erected in cities and towns for 
 the convenience of the devotees, are found in the most 
 beautiful and romantic situations which the country 
 affords. 
 
 Some of the temples have pagodas connected with 
 them, which are towers, of five to seven stories, sub--^ 
 stantially built of stone or brick. They form a very 
 characteristic and beautiful feature in Chinese landscapes. 
 Many of them sho^v evidences of great antiquity. They 
 
112 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 were probably built originally to be tlie repositories of 
 some valuable relics, or to commemorate some noted 
 person. Occasionally one is found to contain idols. 
 The idols are manufactured of the different metals, or of 
 stone or clay. The largest are made of wood covered 
 with mortar, and gilded on tlie outside with golddeaf, and 
 in some cases they are painted in different colors. It is 
 considered essential that all idols, both large and small, 
 should be supplied with artificial entrails which repre- 
 sent the living sj^irit," without which the god would be 
 regarded as worthless. Sometimes pearls and precious 
 stones, or live snakes or other re])tiles, are added, which 
 are lodged in the body through a hole in the back. These 
 images are generally well executed as to their forms. 
 These facts are worthy of notice, as indicative of the 
 character of the people, and the art with which Satan 
 suits the forms of idolatry to the minds of his deluded 
 victims. 
 
 The general appearance of the large Buddhist temples 
 is grand and imposing in their architectural taste and 
 skill. They are well proportioned, and in each one the 
 plan of the interior is suited to the size and number of 
 the idols which it is to contain. The large roofs are 
 covered with tiling, said to last more than half a century 
 without repair. The interiors are ornamented with 
 elaborate carvings in wood and stone, and have a great 
 variety of inscriptions on the walls and pillars. 
 
 Buddhist priests profess to live on a vegetable diet, 
 which consists principally of red rice, and wear no clothes 
 made of wool or the skins of animals, as they consider it 
 
RELIGION OF THE CHINESE. II3 
 
 a crime to take animal life. They also shave the whole 
 head, and wear garments peculiar to their order, consist- 
 ing of a single blanket wrapped around the l>ody. Many 
 of them hav'e marks burnc- upon their heads or arms, as 
 the evidence of merit. Some of the younger priests are 
 engaged to a certain extent about the monastery or in 
 tilling the soil, l)ut these duties are for the most part 
 performed by hired laborers, while the priests lead a life 
 of ease and indolence. Some of them sj^end the most of 
 their lives in the same monastery, and some have a rov- 
 ing propensity, traveling over the greater part of China; 
 they easily beg their way as they go, and find convenient 
 lodgings in the monasteries of their OAvn order. They 
 generally carry with them a passport or introduction from 
 a superior with whom they are acquainted. Without 
 this, however, the laws of their order give them the j)riv- 
 ilege of stopping at any place for rest and refreshment. 
 
 The best recommendation is said to consist in quali- 
 fications for earning money. Each monastery is regarded 
 as a large household, and, when priests earn money, part 
 of it is expected to go to the establishment. In conse- 
 quence of the traveling propensities of these priests, large 
 monasteries present striking instances of the confusion 
 of tongues, and frequently priests of the same order can- 
 not understand each other without a third person to act 
 as interpreter. The number of priests in these establish- 
 ments varies, often several hundred being placed in the 
 same monastery. 
 
 The incomes of monasteries are derived from the vol- 
 untary contributions of the people ; money paid to the 
 
114 ABOUND 2 HE WORLD. 
 
 priests in remuneration for their services at funerals^ 
 which goes to their support ; and the proceeds of the 
 lands with which many of them have heen endowed. 
 The specific duties of the priesthood are chanting, per- 
 forming different ceremonies in the temples, and begging. 
 The chanting of a regular and formal service is performed 
 mornino^ and evenino;, and is carried on in connection 
 with the burning of incense and candles, prostration, the 
 beating of drums and bells, and pacing backward and 
 forward, bowing to the idols ; the whole performance 
 lasts about an hour. In case a temple or monastery is 
 out of repair, priests are sent to solicit subscriptions from 
 door to door. AVealthy individuals, and sometimes offi- 
 cers, give large sums, influenced partly by a desii'e to 
 be seen and praised of men, and partly by the hope of 
 securing happiness in a future state. 
 
 Connected with most of the large Buddhist temples 
 are some priests distinguished from their class by living 
 in rude huts, or caves among the hills, in the greatest 
 retirement. Their time is principally spent in kee23ing 
 the taper lighted before their gods, reciting their chants, 
 and cooking their simple meals. While professing to 
 seek this retirement for the sake of meditation, they 
 seem almost to lose their power of thinking. They are 
 in these secluded places supported by the contributions 
 of friends and temple-worshipers, and by suj^plies from 
 the monastery with which they are connected. It is 
 commonly reported and believed that those who live 
 thus attain to greater longevity, and require very little 
 sustenance to support life. 
 
RELIGION OF THE CHINESE. H^ 
 
 There are otter priests who spend their time in closed 
 rooms or cells ; these are connected also with the lai-ger 
 establishments. They commence their secluded life with 
 considerable formality. On an appointed day they enter 
 the room or rooms which are to be their future abode, 
 and all the doors are sealed by numerous strips of paper, 
 on which is written, in large characters, a statement of 
 the day when the confinement commenced, and how long 
 it is to continue. Only one small hole is left in the wall, 
 throug-h which articles are handed in and out. Here 
 the blind devotee immures himself for years, and per- 
 haps for life. Priests sometimes take refuge in the 
 cloistered cells to escape punishment, after having broken 
 their vows by the commission of crimes. Sometimes 
 rich men, who are unwilling to devote themselves to a 
 life of seclusion, pay the priests, and provide them at the 
 same time with food, that they shall offer up prayers in 
 their behalf. 
 
 Connected with the religion of Buddhism is a large 
 number of nunneries. With regard to the worship per- 
 formed in these institutions, and the manner in which 
 they are supported and theii' affairs conducted, they 
 differ very little from the monasteries. It is said, as re- 
 gards the character and practices of their inmates, that, 
 with few exceptions, their re23utation is far from being 
 above suspicion. 
 
 J. ♦ 
 
 The worshipers in Buddhist temples are for the 
 most part women, and these are generally advanced in 
 age ; but the young women, according to the customs of 
 the country, are forbidden to appear in public. The 
 
116 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 older women, having but little to do, and reminded by 
 their age of the necessity of preparing for a future state, 
 spend much of their time in the temples. In conse- 
 quence of the inferior station of women in China, and 
 their peculiar trials, being a woman is regarded as a 
 great misfortune ; but they console themselves with the 
 hope that their earnest devotions at the temple, or 
 shrines of Buddha, will gain them the privilege of beingj 
 changed into men in the future state. 
 
 There are twelve or fifteen days in the year on ^vhich 
 a small amount of tich can be obtained. The women 
 generally get about this number of days yearly, but 
 those detained at home by sickness or other causes are 
 not able to come to the temple on the regular tich days. 
 For the consideration of a few small coins the priests 
 allow their names to he enrolled, and they can send for 
 the tich at any time and chant over it at home. 
 
 On worship-days a great number of women may be 
 seen slowly making their way to their chosen place of 
 devotion. They generally go in small companies, carry- 
 ing with them a little basket containing candles and 
 incense-sticks. They are always dressed in their best 
 clothes, as it would be considered disrespectful to the 
 gods to appear before them in theii" every-day apparel ; 
 and they hope also, by their dress and behavioi*, to pro- 
 duce the impression upon the gods that they are persons 
 in better circumstances than they really are. 
 
 At the temple the worship is conducted in the fol- 
 lowing manner : A few candles are lighted and placed 
 before the gods either by the worshiper or priest in 
 
RELIGION OF THE CHINESE. n^ 
 
 attendance ; incense-sticks are also liglited and placed in 
 the large bowl of ashes before each idol, or the one to 
 which the individual expects to pay homage ; the design 
 of the worshiper in doing this is to apprise the gods of 
 her presence and intentions. These incense-sticks are 
 about a foot long, and an eighth of an inch in diameter ; 
 when the sticks have been lit and properly arranged, the 
 worshiper bows again and again, and at length prostrates 
 herself upon the floor. 
 
 Usually large numbers of people may be seen at the 
 Buddhist and other temples on the 1st and 15th of each 
 month, and also on the birthdays of the different gods. 
 Special visits are made for special purposes at all times. 
 Some go to pray for children ; some to seek for an omen 
 or ask advice in cases of exigency or perplexity ; some to 
 procure medicine for sick persons, and others to make 
 vows. Sometimes, in extreme cases, advice is obtained 
 by the worshiper taking in his hand a little box opened 
 at the top, containing a number of small labeled wooden 
 sticks, which he shakes in front of the idol until one of 
 them falls out. The number written on this stick points 
 out the corresponding slip of paper in a book where the 
 desired answer may be found ; this is written in large 
 letters, indicating whether the matter in question will 
 terminate favorably or unfavorably. The same device is 
 used in asking for medicine, though the god interrogated 
 is different, and the slip of paper contains medical pre- 
 scriptions only. As a general rule, the Chinese have 
 physicians, who are often called to administer to the sick. 
 
 Vows are made in cases of distress and uncertainty; 
 
118 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 * 
 
 the person assuming a vow, in order to secure the assist- 
 ance and protection of some deity, promises to provide 
 something very good for the god to look at, or to feed 
 hungry ghosts, or to furnish new clothes for some idol 
 in the temple. Some of the gods not painted, or covered 
 with gold-leaf, wear a variety of clothes, which are 
 chano-ed with the chano-ino- seasons. 
 
 Ancestral temples are numerous in China ; almost 
 every small village contains one, most of these villages 
 being composed principally of inhabitants of the same 
 name or family. These ancestral temples are the most 
 sacred sj^ots on earth to a Chinaman : here rei^ose the 
 spirits of his ancestors ; this is the place for family meet- 
 ings on sncrihcial days ; here he expects that his spirit 
 will find its last resting-place, and share in the homage 
 and ojfferings of future generations. These facts relating 
 to ancestral worship explain the anxiety of the Chinese 
 who visit our Western coast of America to have their 
 bodies carried back to their homes in case of death. 
 They wish their dust to mingle with that of their an- 
 cestors, and their spirits to be restored to their ancestral 
 temples, else they would be unhoused, unfed, uncared 
 for — wandering, starving, homeless ghosts in a foreign 
 land, than which condition nothino; can be more dreaded 
 by them. 
 
 There is another kind of worship practised, that of 
 the kitchen-god so called, which occupies an important 
 place in the national religious rites. This form of idola- 
 try is as ancient as the one just described, and as univer- 
 sal, being practised in every family. The kitchen-god 
 
RELIGION OF THE CHINESE. 
 
 119 
 
 has uo temple, uor images. It is worshiped under the 
 representation of an engraved paper, generally about a 
 foot square, pasted on the kitchen-range. This style of 
 worship may l)e regarded as the household divinity of 
 China ; it is supposed that it takes cognizance of every- 
 
 TEiTPLE OF HEAVEN. 
 
 thing which transpires in the family, and makes a rej)ort 
 at the close of the year in the presence of the chief of the 
 gods. On the night when the report is made, all the 
 members of the family are present, and a feast is given 
 for and in honor of the god, intended to induce him to 
 make as favorable a report at headquarters as possible. 
 At the close of the feast the paper-god is removed from 
 
120 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 the kitchen-rano;e and burned, and on tlie first day of tlie 
 new year a new paper is procured, and the kitchen-god 
 is requested to resume his place in the family ! 
 
 Another ceremony is performed, called ying-chun — 
 the welcoming of spring — which is observed every year 
 on the first day of spring. It is customary for the 
 ofiicers to go out through the east gate of the city, where 
 they find clay images of a ploughman and his ox, which 
 had been previously made for the occasion. They then 
 witness a theatrical performance in the temple of the 
 god of agriculture, which is designed to encourage the 
 people to be industrious in agricultural pursuits, and 
 then the clay images are brought back into the city and 
 worshiped ; on the following day they are broken in 
 pieces by the ofiicers. The fi'agments of these images 
 are highly prized and eagerly sought by the people, who 
 carry them to their homes as a pledge of good luck for 
 the coming season. The design of this ceremony seems 
 to be to inculcate veneration for the ox, and respect for 
 husbandry. 
 
 The god of war is everywhere worshiped, and has 
 temples erected to him throughout the empire. During 
 the last civil war in China, the emperor heaped new 
 honors upon him on account of alleged deliverances, but 
 no doubt principally to inspire confidence in the for- 
 tunes of his dynasty. 
 
 The god of wealth is much regarded, for he has not 
 only large temples erected solely in honor of him, but 
 every shop contains his image, in a little shrine, before 
 which incense is kept continually burning, and many 
 
RELIGION OF THE CHINESE. 121 
 
 busiuess houses have this o-od either over the door or 
 on the sides, to keep away the evil spirit. 
 
 In cities and towns men of diiferent classes and occu- 
 pations have each their own peculiar deities, in addition 
 to those gods which they worship in common with the 
 mass of the people. Scholars worship the god of letters, 
 business men the god of wealth, dealers in medicine the 
 god who discovered medicine, carpenters the god who 
 invented the tools with which they work, sailors the 
 goddess of the seas ; and there are other gods too numer- 
 ous to mention. 
 
 In all lieathen countries the people indillge in the 
 worship of idols, that which God commanded them not 
 to do. The first allusion in the Bible to idolatry, or 
 idolatrous customs, is in the account of Kachel's stealing 
 her father's images (Genesis xxx. 19). When Moses 
 was in the mount, Aaron, by request of the Israelites, 
 who clamored for some visible shape in which they might 
 worship God, who had brought them up out of Egy^^t, 
 yielded to the popular cry, and chose as the symbol of 
 deity a calf, one with which they had long been familiar 
 (Exodus xxxii.). 
 
 The three princijial religions in China, namely, the 
 state, Confucianism, and Buddhism, are not regarded by 
 the people as antagonistic sects. It is said to be very 
 common for the same persons to profess and perform the 
 rites and worship of them all. 
 
 Of other religious sects in China the Mohammedans 
 are numerous. They entered China from Arabia in the 
 seventh century, and their number has gradually in- 
 
122 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 creased by immigration from Mohammedan states and 
 by natural increase — not by proselytism. Their mosques 
 may be seen in all the large cities. 
 
 Buddhism, in numbers, is greater than any other re- 
 lip-ion in the world. It includes over one-thii'd more 
 than all others together. It prevails not only in China 
 and Japan, but in India, Siberia, and many other coun- 
 tries. According to Hassel, the numerical value of the 
 various important religions of the world may be esti- 
 mated as follows : 
 
 Bnddjiists 315,000,000 
 
 Mohammedans .... 250,000,000 
 Christians of all denominations . . 120,000,000 
 
 Confucianists, etc 111,000,000 
 
 Jews 4,000,000 
 
 Other numerous sects . . . 100,000,000 
 
 Total 900,000,000 
 
 The chief step toward Christianizing our world has 
 been taken by opening the Chinese Empire. Throwing 
 open her doors to admit the gospel of Christ to a third 
 of the human race is doubtless one of the greatest among 
 the great events of the present age, and one that should 
 awaken no ordinary interest throughout the Christian 
 world. It is an event in which the hand of God is 
 clearly manifest, preparing the way and leading forward 
 gradually the movement of his kingdom toward the 
 period when the heathen shall be given to the Son for 
 an inheritance, and the uttermost parts of the earth for 
 a possession. 
 
 Christianity, in some of its forms, is no new thing in 
 
RELIGION OF THE CHINESE. 123 
 
 China. If what can be gathered from ancient writers is 
 relial)le, there is a strong probability that the gospel was 
 preached in China, and churches were founded, during 
 the first century of our era. Assemanus, a learned Syr- 
 ian historian, claims that the apostle Thomas crossed 
 over Persia and India into China, and preached the gos- 
 pel and founded churches. There are various arguments, 
 collected from learned men, to show that the Christian 
 faith was carried to China by the first teachers of Chris- 
 tianity at an early period. Mosheim says that in the 
 year 300 many Christian deeds were done in China. 
 Chinese history also makes a [clear reference to Chris- 
 tianity in that country at this period. On the whole, 
 historic testimony is quite united and strongly in favor 
 of the view that Christian churches were established in 
 China many centuries ago. In the seventh and eighth 
 centuries the Nestorian missions in China were flourish- 
 ing. This is learned from an inscription upon a remark- 
 able marble tablet discovered in the year 1625, in Segan, 
 the capital of the province of Shen-si, and still to be seen 
 there, which was erected in the year 781. From this 
 inscription it is evident that the Nestorian s had made 
 great progress among the Chinese : the Bible, or at least 
 portions of it, was translated, and put in the library of 
 the palace ; churches were built, and priests were ap- 
 pointed and supported by command of the Chinese em- 
 perors ; many men occupying high official stations were 
 the warm friends of the foreig-n missionaries, and firm 
 adherents and zealous supporters of the faith. 
 
 In 845, sixty-four years after the erection of the tablet 
 
124 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 alluded to, 2^ei'seciition arose, and by an edict of the em- 
 peror the priests that came from Syria, in all numbering 
 nearly a thousand, were ordered to retire to private life. 
 From this time the missions appear to have declined. 
 Still, foreign priests continued for several centuries occa- 
 sionally to arrive, and churches continued to exist in 
 various parts of the empire, until a fierce persecution 
 arose that scattered the Christians and changed their 
 places of worship into heathen temples. This occurred 
 about the middle of the sixteenth century, when the 
 churches had already become very corrupt and feeble. 
 Since that time, it is not known that a single Nestorian 
 church has existed in the empire. 
 
 Roman Catholic missions have also been in operation 
 in China for a long period. Their first mission was com- 
 menced by the Franciscans in 1292. They continued 
 their work till the expulsion of the Mongols from the 
 throne of China, in 1368, when their mission was broken 
 up ; froni this time, for a period of two hundred and 
 thirteen years, we hear no more of the Roman Catholic 
 missions in China. In the year 1581 the Jesuits com- 
 menced a mission, which continued to prosper for a period 
 of one hundred and forty-three years, and many churches 
 were established. Since then things have gradually 
 taken a change for the worse, and the missions have suf- 
 fered frequent and severe persecutions ; they have, how- 
 ever, been able to prosecute their work down to the 
 present time. 
 
 Protestant missions to the Chinese were commenced 
 in 1807, by the Rev. Robert Morrison, of the London 
 
RELIGION OF THE CHINESE. 125 
 
 Missionary Society, who began a mission at Canton. As 
 China was not yet opened to intercourse with the West- 
 ern worhl, and the East India Company — which then 
 monopolized the trade with China — was opposed to mis- 
 sions, Mr. Morrison was not at liberty to preach openly ; 
 but he held secret meetino-s with a few natives in his 
 own house, where with locked doors he read and ex- 
 plained the gospel every Lord's day. He labored alone 
 for six years, and was then joined by the Rev. William 
 Milne. 
 
 Up to 1841, a period of thirty-five years, fifty-eight 
 missionaries had joined the various missions, of whom 
 only four came direct to Canton ; others were stationed 
 at different places. In 1842, when British cannon had 
 opened the long-closed gates of China, missionaries rap- 
 idly increased ; numbers entered the field, and with great 
 zeal began to lay broad and deep the foundations of 
 their future work. Buildings were erected ; schools, 
 printing establishments, and chapels, were opened. 
 
 By the treaties of 1860 — secured by the second war 
 — ten new ports were opened. At most of these mis- 
 sions were established ; day and boarding schools have 
 been extensively maintained ; hundreds of native preach- 
 ers have been trained up in these schools ; dispensaries 
 and hospitals have been established at nearly all the 
 fi'ee j^oiiis, where more than ten thousand patients have 
 annually been treated, and at the same time have been 
 brought under the influence of the gospel ; five complete 
 versions of the Bible, and over seven hundred other trea- 
 tises, have been prepared and circulated in great numbers. 
 
126 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 And now, that wliicli should greatly enhance the in- 
 terest of American Christians in this field is the fact that 
 it is brought so close to them. The construction of the 
 Pacific Railroad, and the Pacific mail-steamship line, have 
 brought China very near to us. Formerly the Flowery 
 Land was at the very ends of the earth ; now the facil- 
 ities for intercommunication have brouo;ht her almost 
 to our very doors, and she is beginning to command our 
 attention. Before this new mode of communication was 
 opened, missionaries to China were about five months in 
 reaching their field of labor ; now they can reach it in 
 five weeks. Then they had the discomforts of a long 
 sea-voyage around the Cape of Good Hope in a sailing- 
 vessel ; but now, in splendid palace and sleeping cars, 
 they cross the continent to San Francisco in a week, and 
 thence in a splendid steamship, with every comfort that 
 can be enjoyed at sea, they can cross the Pacific and reach 
 China in less than a month. 
 
CHAPTEE XL 
 
 CHIlSrESE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. 
 
 The Chinese are said to be hospitable and generous; 
 but when under the influence of passion, excited by in- 
 justice or insult, quarrels arise in the family or on the 
 streets, in which women often take part. They bluster 
 and threaten in a manner quite frightful to those, unac- 
 customed to them, but seldom come to blows. In cases 
 of deep resentment, the injured party often adopts a 
 singular mode of reveno;e : instead of killins: his antao-- 
 onist, he determines rather to kill himself. In this way 
 he would fix the stigma of murder upon his adversary, 
 whom the people generally regard as the cause of the 
 crime, and responsible for it. A person under these cir- 
 cumstances sometimes commits suicide by hanging him- 
 self in his own house ; but the most common mode is to 
 swallow opium, and then hire coolies to carry him to die 
 at the door of his enemy. Their motive in leading to 
 self-destruction lies probably in the hope of having 
 greater advantages for inflicting injur}^ and gaining re- 
 venge in the spirit-world than while living in the flesh. 
 
 The Chinese costume, of both sexes, is loose and flow- 
 ing, and with scarcely any change in fashion. The 
 masses of the population wear homespun cotton ; the 
 wealthier classes are clad in silks, satins, furs, and other 
 
128 . AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 more costly materials. TLe dress-makers are men instead 
 of women, and tlie various trades and occupations are 
 singularly mixed up. The men wear tlieir hair as long 
 as it will grow, and when plaited it often reaches lielow 
 their knees, while the women carefully braid theirs on 
 and around the head. The men commonly wear a sort 
 of petticoat, or loose garment reaching to the feet, while 
 the women, on the other hand, wear trousers or panta- 
 loons. 
 
 The official rank and position of the Chinese are in- 
 dicated by the color and peculiarities of buttons, feathers, 
 caps, and embroidered work, on their garments ; these 
 official badges are much regarded by the people. In 
 meeting with a company of foreigners, they are prone 
 to notice them carefully, to discover by what outward 
 badge or mark their rank is indicated, and are apt to 
 conclude that it is by the variety of caps and hats they 
 wear. 
 
 The practice of binding girls' feet is almost universal 
 amons: the hio-her classes. It is reo;arded as a mark of 
 distinction for ladies to have small feet; in every city 
 great numbers of women, perhaps a quarter or more of 
 the female population, may be seen toddling about the 
 streets on their pegs, looking very much as if their feet 
 had been cut off and they were walking on the stumps; 
 it is with the greatest difficulty that they can balance 
 themselves in walking, and many resort to a cane to keep 
 themselves straio;ht. There is a marked difference in the 
 degree in which feet are compressed. Country-women 
 and the poorer classes have feet about half the natural 
 
CHINESE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. 129 
 
 size, while those of the genteel or fashionable class are 
 only about three inches long. The process of compress- 
 ino; is commenced after ffirls have learned to walk, and 
 have developed the muscles for locomotion, and generally 
 at the age of five years, when a cotton bandage two or 
 three inches \vide is wound tightly around the foot, and 
 from this time the foot ceases to grow ; it assumes the 
 shape of an acute triangle, the big toe forming the acute 
 angle, and the other toes being bent under the foot, and 
 almost lost or absorbed. This custom has existed for 
 many centuries, and the Chinese cannot account satis- 
 factorily for its origin. It probably arose from a strife 
 among women for the preeminence of having the smallest 
 feet. The Chinese insist upon it that the custom of 
 compressing women's feet is neither in as bad taste, nor 
 so injurious to the health, as that of foreign ladies com- 
 pressing the ^vaist. 
 
 The Chinese have a custom, quite peculiar to them- 
 selves, of ordering their coffins and having them sent 
 home long before they have any thought of dying ; they 
 take great pride in selecting the best materials, having 
 them made of thick slabs of wood, good and strong, and, 
 when they can afford it, in the most expensive style, and 
 take great pleasure in showing them to their friends, 
 keeping them where they may be seen by all who call. 
 
 Chinese houses are ordinarily furnished with chairs, 
 tables, stands, and bedsteads. When they have com- 
 pany the two sexes eat separately in difterent rooms, but 
 in ordinary meals different members of the family of 
 both sexes sit down together with mucli less formality. 
 
130 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 On the tables of botli ricli and poor may be seen a large 
 dish filled with rice; before each chair is placed an 
 empty bowl and two chop-sticks, which are about eight 
 inches long, and resemble somewhat a common penholder; 
 these are made of bamboo or ivory. Each individual at 
 the table takes up the chop-sticks in the right hand, and, 
 holding them between the thumb and fingers in such 
 a manner that the lower ends approach each other like 
 a pair of pincers or tongs, eats comparatively with as 
 much ease as we do with knives and forks. 
 
 Beef is never exposed for sale in the Chinese mar- 
 kets. The meat of the few cattle which are used for 
 ploughing is, when they are killed, disposed of princi- 
 pally to foreigners. There is a strong and almost uni- 
 versal prejudice against eating beef. The reason gener- 
 ally given for this prejudice is, that we are so much 
 indebted to the patient labors of the ox an<l cow for 
 ploughing our fields. Milk is hardly used at all. They 
 eat pork, fowls, eggs, fish, and game. In all the open 
 ports beef and milk are supplied for the use of foreign 
 residents. 
 
 During the months of August and September in 
 every year, when diseases are usually prevalent, the 
 people sup2^ose that the gates of liell are opened, and 
 the spirits are turned out for a kind of holiday ; at 
 this time they are honored with ceremonies performed 
 throughout the country. The object of these ceremonies 
 is to avert the evil, and secure health and peace to the 
 afilicted families. Quantities of food are prepared which 
 are set on tables in an open place or court ; clothes of 
 
CHINESE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. I31 
 
 paper of different sizes, styles, and colors, are suspended 
 over the table, and a company of priests and singers is 
 employed to add variety and noise to the entertainment. 
 After dark, lanterns are suspended from high poles to call 
 the spirits from a distance and indicate to them where 
 food can l)e found. This food is of a very inferior 
 quality, and, after the feast is over, given to beggars. It 
 is supposed that the charms of the priests have the 
 power to convert both the food and the paper clothes 
 into just what is required to satisfy the wants of those 
 for Avhom they were intended. 
 
 Weddings in China are celebrated with a great deal 
 of formality and expense. Betrothals are generally con- 
 tracted at a very early age ; persons of the same family 
 name are never betrothed, however distant the relation- 
 ship. The work is done in most cases by a class of 
 women called go-betweens or match-makers. They are 
 a class employed at weddings and funerals in superin- 
 tending the toilet and affording assistance. They go 
 about constantly from family to family, and are famil- 
 iarly acquainted mth every one in the neighborhood, 
 and suggest to parents where they may find girls who 
 would make a desirable match for their sons. These 
 women form the medium for carrying on communication 
 between the two families. It would be resrarded as 
 improper and indelicate for the parents to arrange the 
 matter themselves. The betrothal is consummated by 
 the exchange of presents and the making over to the 
 parents of the groom a formal document or agreement. 
 The relation of husband and wife is thus constituted, 
 
132 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 and the engagement is regarded as sacred and binding 
 as if tlie marriage had been performed ; but the wedding 
 in many cases does not take place until several years 
 after, for children are generally betrothed at an early 
 age, from five to seven, and some older, and married at 
 the age agreed upon by the parents. 
 
 When a Chinaman meets a person whom he intends 
 to salute, instead of taking him by the hand and giving 
 it a shake, as with us, he shakes his own hands, putting 
 them together and moving them up and down. On 
 coming into your presence he never thinks of raising his 
 hat or cap or whatever he may wear, although he may 
 remove his shoes. If a Chinaman wislies to do you 
 special honor, instead of placing you at his right hand, 
 you will have a seat or standing-place on his left. When 
 invited to a feast or other entertainment, the men and 
 women, althouo^h invited toorether, do not eat in com- 
 pany, but occupy separate rooms. 
 
 The language of China is another peculiarity. It 
 is said the spoken language is never wiitten, and the 
 written language is never spoken ; so that one may be 
 familiar with Chinese books, and not understand any- 
 thing of the conversation of the people. In I'eading a 
 book, they commence at the top of the page and go to 
 the bottom, instead of across the page, as we do; the 
 lines runnino' downward, numbering: from rig;ht to left. 
 The title of the book is on the side of the page instead 
 of the top, and the contents of the chapter at the end 
 instead of the beginning. 
 
 The first thing w^hich attracts attention in the list of 
 
CHINESE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. 133 
 
 trade with China is the opium-traffic. The Opium War 
 and the present opium-trade is a dark blot upon the 
 history of the British Government. No one can visit 
 China without witnessing the evil effects of opium on 
 the multitudes of miserable victims wliich it is daily de- 
 priving of mental and physical vigoi', and consigning to 
 the grave ; no one can read the humble words in which 
 the Chinese commissioners have besought tlie British 
 representatives not to force this destructive drug upon 
 the nation ; no one can recall the heartless manner in 
 which such appeals were answered with threats, and 
 afterward with broadsides from vessels-of war, until the 
 way was made open for the wholesale introduction of 
 opium in all parts of the empire — which course, on the 
 part of the British authorities, had a powerful tendency 
 to retard the Christian mission- work, and check the prog- 
 ress of religion — without feelings of the deepest indig- 
 nation.' 
 
 Opium to a small extent has been cultivated in China 
 for several centuries, but only for its medical properties. 
 Since its introduction from India, the plant has become 
 an article of culture in many parts of the empire. It is 
 said that in Persia, India, and China, millions of people 
 are employed in the cultivation of the poppy. 
 
 The preparation of opium for the Chinese market is 
 superintended by examiners appointed by the Govern- 
 ment, and is a business of some difficulty, owing to the 
 many devices employed by the manufacturers for its 
 adulteration and to increase its weight : mixing with 
 water, soft clay, sugar, powdered cow-dung, and many 
 
134 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 otlier things, are resorted to. When tlie juice is taken 
 from tlie cultivator, the crude mass undergoes a careful 
 examination, and is rolled into small balls, with a cover- 
 ing of opium mixed with the leaves of the poppy. The 
 juice, when properly prepared and dried, is of the con- 
 sistency of thick mortar and of a yellow color. 
 
 The Chinese do not raise enough opium for home 
 consumption, and a very large quantity is brought from 
 India. Nearly all the opium grown in India is brought 
 to Calcutta and stored in Government warehouses, until 
 exposed for sale at auction in lots from five chests each, 
 at an upset price graduated by the market rate in China. 
 It is supposed to cost about seven hundred rupees a 
 chest, and is sold for one thousand rupees and upward, 
 yielding an immense profit to the British Grovernment. 
 Before marketing the drug is rolled into small balls, and 
 then packed in strong l)oxes weighing one hundred and 
 twenty-five pounds each. 
 
 Thousands and tens of thousands of the Chinese peo- 
 ple annually die from the evil effects of opium. Various 
 means have been tried by the benevolent men of the 
 nation to dissuade theii' countrymen from its use, by dis- 
 tributing tracts showing its ruinous effects, and com- 
 pounding medicines for the smoker to take, to aid him 
 in breaking off the habit, and denouncing the smoking- 
 shops, etc. 
 
 The opium-pipe consists of a tube or stem, of bamboo, 
 from three to four feet long, furnished at the end with a 
 little cup of earthenware, which rests upon a small lamp 
 or furnace filled with coals, upon which the bowl of the 
 
CHINESE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. 135 
 
 pi]3e rests. A small piece of opium, not much larger 
 than a pea, is put upon the hole of the bowl, set on fire 
 by the lamp or coals, and inhaled by one whiff, so that 
 none of the smoke shall be lost. Old smokers will re- 
 tain the breath a long time, filling the lungs and exhal- 
 ing the fumes through the nose. It is said that, after the 
 smoker has finished his pipe, he falls into a deep sleep 
 of from one to four hours' duration. 
 
 In walking through the streets of Canton I saw, in 
 many of the stores and shops, persons sitting flat upon 
 the floor with the feet curled under their bodies, with 
 their pipes resting upon a small furnace of coals, smok- 
 ing ; the sidewalks are also used for the same purpose. 
 They commonly lie or sit down to smoke, and often two 
 or three persons smoke from the same pipe, first one and 
 then the other taking a whiff. 
 
 The testimony regarding the evil effects of the use 
 of this pernicious drug, which deserves better to be 
 called an article of destruction than one of luxury, 
 should be well pondered by all who feel an interest in 
 our fallen race of humanity. Dr. Smith, a physician in 
 charge of one of the hospitals, says that the poisonous ef- 
 ects of this habit on the human constitution are particu- 
 larly displayed by stupor, forgetfulness, general debility 
 of both the mental and physical faculties, sallow com- 
 plexion, dullness of the eye, and the appetite either de- 
 stroyed or depraved. These symptoms appear when the 
 habit has weakened the physical powers ; even the ordi- 
 nary smoker soon becomes languid, being disabled men- 
 tally more than bodily from carrying on his ordinary 
 
136 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 pursuits. A dose of opium does not produce the intox- 
 ication of ardent spirits, and, so far as the community 
 and his family are concerned, the smoker is less trouble- 
 some than the drunkard, for he never throws the chairs 
 and tables about the room, nor breaks the furniture, as 
 the drunkard may; he never drives his wife out-of-doors 
 in his furious rage, nor goes reeling through the streets, 
 nor takes lodgings in the gutter, but after smoking he is 
 inclined to go to sleep, and he awakes quietly. 
 
 A Chinese scholar thus sums up the bad effects of 
 opium, which he says is taken at first to raise the animal 
 spirits. On the contrary, he affirms that it depresses the 
 spirits, impedes the regular performance of business, 
 wastes the flesh and blood, dissipates every kind of 
 property, renders the victim prone to violate the laws, 
 attacks the vitals, and destroys life. Under each of these 
 heads he shows the mode of the process, or gives exam- 
 ples to uphold his assertions in regard to its destructive 
 action on the human system. Compared with arsenic, I 
 pronounce it tenfold the greater poison. One swallows 
 arsenic, because he has lost his reputation and from other 
 causes; thus driven to desperation, he takes the dose 
 and is destroyed at once. But those who smoke opium 
 are injured in many ways ; it may be comj^ared to rais- 
 ing the wick of a lamp : while it increases the blaze, it 
 hastens the exhaustion of the oil and the extinction of 
 the light. Hence the youth who becomes addicted to 
 opium-smoking will shorten his own days and cut off all 
 hopes of posterity. From the most robust who indulge 
 in smoking, the flesh is gradually consumed and worn 
 
CHINESE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. 
 
 137 
 
 away, and the countenance becomes haggard and dark- 
 looking. The habitual smoker Avill often spend days 
 over his pipe, for when the desire of opium comes on he 
 cannot resist the temptation. It is said that poor men 
 
 /! / J/ 
 
 d«*f*g(j»iii| 
 
 f ); ^^'f»>^^\ \ 
 
 OPrCTM-SMOKERS. 
 
 who are addicted to this vice, after having pawned every 
 article in their possession for the purchase of the de- 
 basing drug, have even pawned their wives and sold 
 
 their daughters ! 
 
 10 
 
138 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 The evils suffered and crimes committed by these 
 desperate victims of the opium-pipe are fearful and mul- 
 tiplied : theft, arson, murder, and suicide, are perpetrated 
 in order to obtain tlie drug; and, from its dreadful con- 
 sequences, some try to break off the fatal habit by drink- 
 ing a tincture of the opium-drug in spirits, gradually 
 diminishing its strength until the appetite for the stimu- 
 lant is overcome. Others mix opium with tobacco, and 
 smoke the compound in a gradually reduced proportion, 
 until tobacco alone remains in the pipe. By this method 
 some smokers have lost the appetite for opium. The 
 general belief is that the vice can be overcome without 
 fatal results, if the smoker firmly resolves to forsake it, 
 and keeps away from the sight and smell of the pipe, 
 keeping as much as possible in the open air until he 
 recovers his spirits, and no longer feels a longing for it ; 
 but very few have nerve enough to emancipate them- 
 selves from the tyrannous and soul-killing habit which 
 enslaves them. But it happens unto them according 
 to the true proverb : " The dog is turned to his own 
 vomit again ; and the sow that was washed to her wal- 
 lowing in the mire" (2 Peter ii. 22). 
 
 The Chinese Government is one of the great wonders 
 of history. It presents to us to-day the same character 
 which it jiossessed at its foundation, at least three thou- 
 sand years ago, and which it has retained ever since. 
 
 A prominent English writer, in speaking of the Chi- 
 nese executive system, characterizes it as one of the most 
 gigantic and the most minutely organized in the world. 
 
CHINESE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. I39 
 
 The character of the Government is patriarchal, and 
 assumed its present form at a very early age, when the 
 Chinese race was divided into petty kingdoms and prin- 
 cipalities. As the empire grew in territory and popula- 
 tion, the fundamental principle was retained. 
 
 The emperor is called the Son of Heaven, who exer- 
 cises supreme control over the whole empire, because 
 Heaven has empowered and requii'ed him to do so. His 
 patriarchal character, while it confers on him absolute 
 sovereignty, imposes also the obligation to treat his peo- 
 ple with justice and sympathy. It is said that he lives 
 in unapproachable grandeur, and is never seen except 
 by members of his own family and high state officers; 
 nothing is omitted which can add to the dignity and 
 sacredness of his person or character, and almost every- 
 thing used by him is held sacred by the common people, 
 and distinguished by some peculiar mark or color, so as 
 to keep up the impression of awe with which he is re- 
 garded. The outer gate of the palace must always be 
 passed on foot, and the paved entrance leading up to it 
 can only be used by him and the high officers of state. 
 
 The throne is not strictly hereditary, though the old- 
 est son of the emj)eror generally succeeds to it. The 
 emperor appoints his successor, but it is supposed that, 
 in doing so, he will have supreme regard for the best 
 good of his subjects, and will be governed by the will 
 of Heaven. 
 
 In governing so large a realm it is found necessary 
 for the emperor to delegate his authority to numerous 
 officers, who are regarded as his agents and represent- 
 
140 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 atives in carrying out the imperial will ; wliat they do 
 the emperor does through them. 
 
 The cabinet consists of four principal and two joint 
 assistant chancellors, half of them Mantchoos and half 
 Chinese. Their duties, according to the imperial stat- 
 utes, are to deliberate on the government of the empire, 
 regulate the canons of state, together with the whole 
 administration of the balance of power, and aid the em- 
 peror in directing the affairs of state. Subordinate to 
 these six chancellors are also six other grades of officers, 
 amounting in all to several hundred persons. 
 
 The general council is composed of princes of the 
 blood, of the chancellors' cabinet, the presidents and vice- 
 presidents of the six boards, and chief officers of all the 
 other courts in the capital. Its duties are to write im- 
 perial edicts and decisions, and determine such things 
 as are of importance to the army and nation, in order 
 to aid the sovereign in regulating the machinery of state 
 affairs. It is principally by means of this council that 
 the emperor, and his immediate advisers, become ac- 
 quainted with and control those who are engaged in dif- 
 ferent departments of the Government. 
 
 There are three subordinate grades of officers in each 
 board, who may be called directors, with a great number 
 of minor clerks. The details of all the departments, in 
 the general and provincial governments, are regulated 
 in the same manner. 
 
 When Confucius began to teach his doctrines, he re- 
 ferred to the ancient kings and their conduct, both for 
 proof of the correctness of his instructions, and for argu- 
 
CHINESE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. \^\ 
 
 ments to enforce them. It shows that his countrymen 
 assented to their propriety from the large number of 
 disciples he had in his lifetime, and the high character 
 he bore, but it was not till after two or three centuries 
 liad elapsed that the rulers of China perceived that the 
 adoption and diffusion of these doctrines would give 
 them sway ; they therefore began to embody them more 
 and more into laws, and base the institutions of govern- 
 ment upon them, and, through all the convulsions and 
 wars which have disturbed the country and changed the 
 reigning families, the wiitings of Confucius have done 
 more than anything else to uj^hold the institutions of 
 the Chinese, and give them a character and permanence 
 which no other people ever had. Education, as well as 
 political economy, being founded on them, students have 
 ever been taus-ht to receive and reverence them as the 
 oracles of political wisdom. 
 
 But this civilization is Asiatic and not European, 
 pagan and not Christian. The institutions of China are 
 despotic and defective, and founded on wrong principles ; 
 they may possess the elements of stability, but not of 
 improvement. The patriarchal theory does not make 
 men honorable, truthful, or kind ; it does not place 
 woman in her right position, that to which she is en- 
 titled, nor teach her millions of inhabitants their obliga- 
 tions to their Creator. 
 
 A cursory inspection will show that the great lead- 
 ing principles by which the present Chinese Government 
 preserves its power over the people consist in a system 
 of strict surveillance and mutual responsibility among 
 
142 AROUND TEE WORLD. 
 
 all classes. They are enforced by such a minute grada- 
 tion of rank and subordination of officers as to give the 
 Government essentially a military character, and the 
 whole system is such as to make it one of the most 
 unmixed despotisms now existing. It is said to be like 
 a network, extending over the whole face of society. 
 The man who knows that it is almost impossible, except 
 by entire seclusion, to escape from the company of secret 
 agents of the Government, will be cautious of offending 
 the laws of the country, convinced that, though he should 
 himself escape, yet his family or kindred will suffer for 
 Ms offense. 
 
CHAPTER XIT. 
 
 CHINESE nSTDUSTRY, 
 
 Agricultuee, of all manual labor, liolds the first 
 place in the honor and estimation of the Chinese, not 
 alone as providing a regular supply of food for so large 
 a population, but also in meeting the wants of the Grov- 
 ernment by taxation; and long experience has taught 
 them that an agricultural community is more easily gov- 
 erned than a mercantile or wai'like one. 
 
 Landed property is held in clans or families as much 
 as possible, but it is not -entailed, nor are very large 
 estates frequent. The land is held as a freehold so long 
 as the sovereign receives his rent, which is estimated at 
 about one-tenth of the produce ; and the proprietors 
 record their names in the district magistrate's ofiice as 
 responsible for the tax, feeling themselves secure in the 
 possession while the tax is paid. The paternal estate, 
 and the houses upon it, descend to the eldest son. 
 Daughters never inherit, nor can an adopted son suc- 
 ceed, or enter into possession. 
 
 It is said that the Chinese are rather gardeners than 
 farmers. Their agricultural utensils are few and simple, 
 and are probably now made similar to those used cen- 
 turies ago : the edge of the large wooden hoe is faced 
 with iron ; the plough is made of wood, excepting the 
 
» 
 
 144 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 share, wliicli is of iron, and lies so flat that it cannot 
 peneti-ate the ground but a few inches ; the harrow is a 
 heavy stick armed with a single row of stout wooden 
 teeth, and furnished with a framework of a triangular 
 form, on which the driver sits to guide it. 
 
 Wheat, barley, millet, and rice, are planted in rows, 
 which is thought to produce better crops than when 
 sown broadcast. Our American farmers would despair 
 if they were obliged to transplant wheat, barley, and 
 rice crops from bed to bed, and spear by spear; they 
 would be discouraged if even they had to water it once 
 or twice durino- its oTowth. It would be left to rot in 
 the field if they were denied a reaper, or at least a cradle 
 or scythe ; it would waste in the barn or stack if they 
 could not procure a thrashing-machine or fanning-mill. 
 Hei'e, on the other hand, each blade of grain is removed 
 to a new bed, and, from its planting until its ripening, 
 it is watered once a daw When it is o-athered, the seeds 
 are separated from the husk by hand ; notwithstanding 
 this vast labor, rice is the chief production, and the prin- 
 cipal fo.od of all the Asiatic races, constituting more than 
 one-half the population of the globe. 
 
 The plan of irrigation is simple, but it requires an 
 immense amount of labor and toil. In some places pools 
 are made in level fields to receive the water, which is 
 lifted from deep wells by means of a sweep or heavy 
 p(3le stationed upon a long post set in the ground ; the 
 sweep is balanced by a weight on one end, and the 
 bucket on the other. By this method water is rapidly 
 drawn and poured into little fu]*rows, through which it 
 
CHINESE INDUSTRY. 145 
 
 "finds its way over the ground. Wheels of various sorts 
 are also contrived to draw water, some worked by human 
 toil and others by cattle. The wheel is erected in a 
 frame, some five or six feet above the top of the well, 
 with a rope sufiiciently long to reach the bottom, and 
 reeved through a wheel ; on one end of the rope is fast- 
 ened a larsre leather bucket, and to the other the cattle 
 are attached. By this method of drawing water three 
 persons are required, two to handle the bucket and one 
 to drive the team. There is another peculiar arrange- 
 ment by which they draw water, which consists of a 
 kind of a box-trough with an axle, two men turning 
 with their feet, as if in a tread-mill, and is commonly 
 used for slight elevations. The chain of paddles revolves 
 around two axles — one at the bottom of the well and one 
 at the top ; in construction it resembles a flour-elevator, 
 and raises the water in the same manner. Comparatively 
 few animals,, with carts, are used to convey water upon 
 the land. A more common plan of irrigation is to take 
 advantasre of a natural brooklet flowino- down a hill-side, 
 and conduct the water from one plat to another till it 
 has flowed over the whole. It is where such water- 
 privileges ofter that the terrace cultivation is often seen. 
 The appearance of a hill-side thus graduated into small 
 ledges is beautiful to look upon ; each plat is divided 
 by a bank, serving the triple j^urpose of fence, path, and 
 dike ; wherever the soil is not watered the vegetation is 
 languid and often dead. 
 
 The buffalo is most used in the rice-fields, and the ox 
 and the ass in dry ploughing; horses, mules, cows, and 
 
146 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 even goats, likewise render service to the farmer in vari- 
 ous ways, and tlie different animals I have often seen 
 yoked together. The Chinese manure the plant rather 
 than the ground. The manure is gathered where cows 
 have been, made into flat cakes, and plastered upon some 
 of the houses in country towns to dry, and is afterward 
 piled in cords; whether it was being prepared for the 
 ground, or for some other purpose, I was at a loss to 
 know. I saw it not only in China, but also in Japan 
 and India, giving employment to thousands of people. 
 We saw it plastered up both on the common country- 
 houses and on fences. In addition to these flat cakes, 
 plastered up in every conceivable place, other substances 
 are gathered, as hair from the barbers'-shops, exploded 
 fire-crackers, sweepings from the streets, lime and plaster 
 from old buildings, soot, bones, fish, leaves, and the mud 
 from the bottom of canals, which are decomposed and 
 used for fertilizing the soil ; vegetable rubbish is also 
 collected in piles, covered with turf, and then burned. 
 
 The ripe grain is commonly cut with l)ill-hooks, or 
 pulled up by the roots ; scythes and cradles are not in 
 use. Rice-straw is made into brooms and brushes. The 
 rice-heads are stripped ft-om the straw, and put into a 
 large stone vessel and pounded with billets of wood to 
 disconnect the hulls from the grain. Some of the larger 
 farmers have thrashing-floors, which are made of a mixt- 
 ure of sand and cement, well pounded, upon an inclined 
 surface inclosed by a curb ; this, with proper care, it is 
 said, will last for many years, and is used in some of the 
 larger villages for thrashing out peas, rice, and mustaid- 
 
CHINESE INDUSTRY. 147 
 
 seed. The great cotton district is the valley of the 
 Yang-tse-kiang River, and the two varieties, white and 
 yellow, grow side by side. After the cotton has been 
 gathered and housed, the seeds are separated by a wheel 
 turning two rollers, and the cotton is then sold by each 
 farmer to merchants in the towns, a portion being kept 
 for weaving at home. Spinning-wheels and looms are 
 common articles of furniture in the houses of the Chinese 
 peasantry. 
 
 Many plants are cultivated for their oil, to be used 
 in the arts as well as in cooking. The tallow-tree, com- 
 mon all over the eastern part of China, is, when fully 
 grown, a beautiful tree. The seeds are formed in clus- 
 ters like small berries, and when ripe are covered wdth 
 pure white tallow ; the whole is then sifted on a hot 
 sieve, by which process the tallow is separated from the 
 kernels. The candles made from the substance procured 
 from the tallow-tree are said to be of an excellent qual- 
 ity. The camphor-tree is also found in China, and af- 
 fords both timber and gum. The tree grows very large, 
 and furnishes excellent planks and beams for building 
 houses and vessels, and making trunks and other arti- 
 cles. Foreigners, in visiting China, frequently purchase 
 trunks made of camphor-^vood. I bought two trunks, 
 with brass trimmings, about three feet long, eighteen 
 inches high, and twenty inches in width, which cost two 
 dollars apiece. I filled them with china-ware, and made 
 a special shipment of them by a sailing-vessel to America. 
 The cassia-tree also grows in this country, and its dried 
 bark affords the principal part of that spice used in the 
 
148 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 United States. It is said that the bark is stripped from 
 the twigs by running a knife along the branches and 
 gradually loosening it, and it is then dried into quill- 
 shaped rolls, in which form it comes to market. The 
 pulpy substance which is found in the pods is also col- 
 lected, and sold under the name of cassia-buds, being 
 applied to the same purposes as the bark. 
 
 Among the industrial arts of the Chinese, the manu- 
 facturing of silk and embroidery is a specialty. Raw 
 silk is an article of sale in the market of Canton, and 
 is largely exported to foreign countries to be woven into 
 cloth. The loom in China is worked by two persons, 
 one of whom sits on toj^ of the frame, where he pulls the 
 treadles and assists in changing the various parts of the 
 machine. The workmen imitate almost any pattern, ex- 
 celling particularly in crapes, and flowered satins and 
 damasks. Silk in China is only worn by the higher 
 class; the common people wear pongee and nankeen, 
 which they frequently dye black or blue. 
 
 The skill of the Chinese in embroidering is well 
 known the world over, and the demand for such work, 
 to ornament furniture, adorn ladies' dresses, for embel- 
 lishing purses, shoes, caps, fans, and other appendages of 
 the dress of both sexes, and for working shawls, table- 
 covers, etc., for exportation, furnishes emj^loyment to 
 thousands of both men and women. In many of the 
 stores in Canton I saw the occupants sitting flat upon 
 the floor working upon a small frame, with the cloth 
 stretched out upon it. All the work is done by the 
 needle, without the aid of machinery. Books are pre- 
 
CHINESE INDUSTRY. -[49 
 
 pared for tlie use of embroiderers, containing patterns 
 for them to imitate. Gold and silver thread is occasion- 
 ally added to impart a lustre to the figures on caps, 
 purses, and ladies' shoes. A branch of the embroidei'er's 
 art consists in the formation of tassels and twisted cords ; 
 spangles are also made by this branch in every possible 
 shape and form. The mode of embroidery seems to have 
 been known among the Hebrews, and even among the 
 Israelites, where it is spoken of in Exodus xxxv. 35 : 
 "Them hath he filled with wisdom of heart, to work all 
 manner of work, of the engraver, and of the cunning 
 workman, and of the embroiderer, in blue, and in pur- 
 ple, in scarlet, and in fine linen." 
 
 The Chinese are not entirely ignorant of the laws 
 of Moses, and of the prophets ; but of Christ, and the 
 teachings of his glorious gospel, they have but little or 
 no knowledge. Almost the last words uttered by the 
 lips of our Saviour when he was upon earth, were, " Go 
 ye into all the world and preach the gospel to every 
 creature." Shortly after his ascension his principal dis- 
 ciples branched ofi:' from Jerusalem, some to the north, 
 to the south, to the west, and to the east ; but how little 
 has been done for the salvation of China, compared with 
 what remains to be done ! The labor hitherto has been 
 chiefly preparatory; the time has now arrived for putting 
 forth direct efforts on a large scale for the evangelization 
 of the people. This enterprise demands comprehensive 
 views and plans ; a large amount of faith, prayer, zeal, 
 liberal giving, and a greater number of laborers. 
 
CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 HOTiTG-KOlSrG TO CEYLON. 
 
 December &th. — The climate of Houg-Kong is con- 
 sidered superior to that of most other places situated 
 within the tropics. It is generally healthy as a resi- 
 dence for foreigners, but it has ol)taine(l a bad reputa- 
 tion from the numerous deaths occurrins; in 1842, at 
 which time a large part of the population died. Subse- 
 quent years, however, have shown that, with proper care, 
 a^'oiding the sun in the heat of the day and keeping out 
 of the evening dews, as good a degree of health can be 
 enjoyed here as in most other places. The thermometer 
 during the winter months stands on an average at from 
 50° to 60°, and in the summer months at 80° to 90°. 
 But at Canton, which is situated farther north, the 
 weather is at least ten degrees colder. 
 
 December ^th. — Inasmuch as the island of Hong-Kong 
 is so rough and mountainous, supplies are chiefly brought 
 from the mainland opposite, where the country is very 
 pi'oductive, and ample demand is made for all the pro- 
 visions it can furnish. Three or four newspapers are 
 published here. There are several flourishing institu- 
 tions, namely, the Medical Missionary Society, the Sea- 
 men's and Military Hospitals, the chapel and school of 
 the London Missionary Society ; the Government-House, 
 
n02sG-K0NG TO CEYLON. 15 1 
 
 jail, and exchange, are among tlie principal edifices in 
 the town. 
 
 December Sth. — The English Governor has estab- 
 lished a system of schools of different grades in Hong- 
 Kong. These schools are well conducted, and mostly 
 filled with Chinese scholars, who are taught both in 
 English and Chinese literature. To-day, among other 
 things, we pui'chased a pair of Chinese vases, and made 
 a special shipment of them through the house of Russell 
 <fe Co., by the sailing-ship Pilgrim, which is expected to 
 arrive in New York in about four months from this 
 date. 
 
 Decemher ^tli. — To-day, at twelve o'clock, we take 
 passage at Hong-Kong on the English mail-ship Gol- 
 conda, Captain Anderson, for Ceylon, stopping at Singa- 
 pore and Penang; sailing distance thii*ty-one hundred 
 and thii'ty-five miles, fare one hundred and seventy-five 
 dollars each. The Golconda is built of iron, of two 
 thousand tons' capacity, propelled by a stern-screw, and 
 full rio;o;ed, belongino; to the fleet of the Peninsula & 
 Oriental Company. We have in company fourteen first- 
 class passengers, among whom are Sir Edward Dilks 
 and Mr. Fowler, members of the British Parliament. 
 About two hours after leaving port our ship is plough- 
 ing through the -China Sea, with all sail set, running 
 before a stiff monsoon. 
 
 December 10th. — China Sea. Weather clear, wind 
 northeast. Thermometer 75°. Course south by west; 
 latitude 18° 11' north, longitude 113° 49' east. Distance 
 run, from yesterday 12 m. up to 12 m. to-day, two hun- 
 
152 • AROUND TEE WORLD. 
 
 dred and forty-six miles. We have been running since 
 leaving port under full sail before the monsoon, which 
 may be called the trade-wiud. The monsoon has a ve- 
 locity of from seven to eight knots, and is said to blow 
 constantly both up and down the China Sea — from 
 March to November from the equator, and the following 
 six months toward the equator — and it generally ex- 
 tends about a thousand miles on each side of the equa- 
 tor, and vice versa. 
 
 A few remarks on the marine barometer may be use- 
 ful. It is said that there is no part of the world where 
 this valuable instrument acts so truly as near the equa- 
 tor, for it gives certaiji indications of approaching gales 
 by a rapid fall of the mercury, and it often does this 
 when the weather is perfectly clear and without a visi- 
 ble cloud. It is closely watched by the ship's officers, 
 and its warnings are never disregarded. 
 
 December 11th. — China Sea. Weather clear. Ther- 
 mometer 78°. Course south by west ; latitude 14° 20' 
 north, longitude 111° 41' east. Distance run, up to 12 
 M., two hundred and seventy-two miles. Ship under full' 
 sail, running before the monsoon. The China Sea is 
 very difficult to navigate. Captain Anderson is a faith- 
 ful officer, and was all last night upon the bridge on the 
 lookout for sunken reefs, and yet we "are over one hun- 
 dred miles from land. Many sailing-ships have been 
 wrecked on these blind ledges of rocks. We are now 
 not far from the Philippine Islands. 
 
 December 12th. — China Sea. This being the Sabbath, 
 divine service was omitted on account of the heavy sea. 
 
HOFG-KONG TO CEYLON. I53 
 
 Weather clear. Thermometer 77°. Course south by- 
 west; latitude 10° 13' north, longitude 109° 28' east. 
 Distance run, up to 12 m., two hundred and eighty-three 
 miles; ship running under full press of canvas before 
 the monsoon. This afternoon we spoke an American 
 merchantman, under reefed topsails, homewai'd bound 
 laden with tea. 
 
 December 13th. — China Sea. Weather clear. Ther- 
 mometer 80°. Course south by west, and ship running 
 before the monsoon under fore and main topsails; sea 
 high, and occasionally one sweeps the decks. Latitude 
 6° 1' north, longitude 104° 44' east. Distance run, up 
 to 12 M., three hundred and three miles. 
 
 December l^th. — China Sea. Weather rainy. Ther- 
 mometer 81°. Course south by west, and ship scudding 
 under fore and main topsails ; sea running very high, and 
 at intervals a heavy wave comes bounding over the quar- 
 ter-deck, the passengers running hither and thither, some 
 grasping the rigging, others holding fast to stanchions 
 to keep on their feet ; and, while taking dinner, the shij) 
 gave a lee-lurch, as old sailors call it, when the dishes 
 and crockery upon the table collided and broke up like 
 pipe-stems. We arrive at Singapore about midnight, 
 having been five and a half days on the passage from 
 Hong-Kong, and without regret we say farewell to the 
 China Sea. Captain Anderson informs us that our pas- 
 sage was a favorable one, having had the monsoon with 
 us ; but that in going up the sea, against both wind and 
 current, the voyage is much longer, and often the waters 
 
 more turbulent. 
 11 
 
154 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 Decemher Ibtlt. — Singapore is an island, about sixty 
 miles in circumference, situated near the mainland, and 
 its southern border is about thirty miles north of the 
 equator. It has a population of one hundred and sixty- 
 five thousand, which is rapidly increasing. The harbor 
 is excellent for shipping, being land-locked on every side 
 
 si>;gapore. 
 
 by high Iduffs. The steamship companies have good 
 docks erected, on which is a large supply of coals piled 
 up and housed over. Singapore is a coaling-depot for 
 all steamers, and the coal is brought mostly from Eng- 
 land around by the way of the Cape of Good Hope in 
 sailing-ships. It is in reality the touching-place for all 
 
HONG-KONG TO CEYLON. 155 
 
 steamers which pass through the straits of Malacca; or 
 from whatever quarter they may come. Constant com- 
 munication is kept up with the rest of the world by 
 almost daily arrivals of both steam and sailing ships. 
 Singa23ore is an English colony, and is not an undesirable 
 place for residence, being on the great highway of the 
 nations east and west. Its chief attractions consist in 
 its delightful climate and its rare productions. It enjoys 
 peri^etual summer, and the atmosphere being moistened 
 by the sea-breeze, and the frequent showers with which 
 it is visited at all seasons, the heat is never oppressive, 
 the thermometer seldom rising above 90° and rarely 
 going below 70°. The island itself surpasses, in the 
 variety and richness of its vegetable growth, all my ex- 
 pectations. In riding through the country, we pass over 
 delightful macadamized roads, made at the expense of 
 the English colonists, overshadowed by the growth of 
 large evergreen trees. The pineapple grows here with 
 great luxuriance, the fruit of enormous size, the largest 
 of which can be bought for one dollar a hundred ; the 
 banana is also very plentiful, and almost every other 
 kind of fruit and nut of a tropical nature grows here. 
 One of the most conspicuous trees upon the island is the 
 fan-palm, which is a large tree, straight as a reed ; the 
 top is in the shape of a fan, as flat as if it had been 
 placed in a press, while the circle of the leaves alone on 
 the larger trees is at least twenty feet in diameter, and 
 resembles the tail of a peacock when fully spread. We 
 rode out to the botanical garden or park, which is well 
 laid out and kept filled with a great variety of trees and 
 
156 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 plants from different climes. One cannot go amiss in 
 Singapore in looking over this beautiful island, wliicli is 
 covered with wliat seems a spontaneous growth of all 
 that is graceful and attractive in verdure and vegetation. 
 The jungle and the forest abound in different kinds of 
 birds of the richest plumage, tribes of monkeys chatter 
 among the branches of the trees, and occasionally a tiger 
 makes his appearance, when hard pressed for something 
 to eat, but we were not fortunate enough to see one of 
 this ferocious tribe. 
 
 Singapore for its size has a more mixed population than 
 any other city in the world, almost every nation being rep- 
 resented, but the Malays are the most numerous. Here 
 we saw humanity in its primitive state: some of the 
 natives were as naked as when they were born, while 
 others wore only a thin piece of muslin cloth, a few 
 inches in width, across the loins. The costume of the 
 ordinary (or probably lower) class of females consisted 
 of a loose skirt of Turkish red, with a thin white or 
 yellow^ shawl thrown carelessly over one shoulder; they 
 were bareheaded and barefooted, with rings uj^on their 
 toes and bracelets around the ankles, three rings in each 
 ear, and one ring, about the size in circumference of a 
 silver dollar, in the nose, and having their long, black, 
 glossy hair trimmed wnth rich ornaments. In stature they 
 are under the ordinary size, with small features, mild 
 countenances, and are rather an attractive race of peo2')le, 
 nearly as dark as the negro. These people seemingly 
 live a life of idleness ; it costs them little or nothing for 
 clothing, and Nature has abundantly supplied them with 
 
HONG-KONG TO CEYLON. 157 
 
 all the spices, nuts, and delicious fruits imaginable, which 
 require little or no cultivation ; and their rivers and bays 
 are tilled with a variety of fine fish, \vhich are taken 
 either with the hook and line or the net, with the least 
 possible labor. The dense forests abound in wild game, 
 which is tame compared with that in civilized coun- 
 tries, for the natives use no fire-arms ; all wild game is 
 taken by snares, traps, nets, and the bow and arrow. 
 By the common people very little regard is paid to the 
 cultivation of the soil. 
 
 Singapore was once a very important missionary sta- 
 tion, not so much, however, in its relation to the perma- 
 
 7 7 7 jL 
 
 nent population of the place as on account of its oftering 
 an opportunity to exert an influence upon China and 
 other neighboring countries. It served as a foothold, or 
 standing-place, on which to operate while the Celestial 
 Empire was closed to foreigners. At one time there 
 were as many as thirty missionaries upon this island, 
 but just as soon as the Chinese Em2)ire was thrown open 
 the force moved on, and now there are only some two 
 or three remainino^. 
 
 The European dwellings in the city do not materially 
 difi^er from those in the Chinese concessions, while the 
 huts of the natives, in some places, are raised on stakes 
 four or five feet above the ground, for the purpose of 
 drainage, and for better security against poisonous rep- 
 tiles and beasts of prey. 
 
 December \Qth. — There are one or two very good 
 hotels in Singapore. The Hotel de I'Europe is hand- 
 somely situated on the margin of the bay, overlooking 
 
158 AROUND THE WOBLD. 
 
 the shipping in the harbor. Very good rooms can he 
 obtained at three dollars per day ; but, during our stay 
 of two days, we preferred to stop overnight on shipboard, 
 where we had excellent accommodations. Captain An- 
 derson doing everything possiljle for the comfort and 
 enjoyment of his passengers. We devoted some time to 
 shopping, occasionally buying small articles of native 
 manufacture. Some of the stores were filled with rare 
 curiosities. Just before our ship sailed, scores of the 
 natives came on board offering canes, embroidery-work, 
 sea-shells, and a variety of other things, for sale, for 
 which they at first often asked more than double what 
 they would finally take. 
 
 At four o'clock in the afternoon the ship's moorings 
 are cast off from the dock, and in a few moments we are 
 steaming out of the harbor, passing through groups of 
 smaller islands clad with brushwood and o;reen foliao-e, 
 and occasionally gardens of vegetation most beautiful 
 to behold, and hundreds of boats filled with men and 
 women taking- fish. After leavino- this small cluster of 
 islands we enter the straits of Malacca, throug^h which 
 channel all ships sailing by the way of the Cape of Good 
 Hope go to China. The British Government has, with 
 its usual sagacity, secured the ancient town of Malacca 
 on the Malay Peninsula. The straits are four hundred 
 miles long, and here about seven miles wide, but in some 
 places more than twice this width. 
 
 December I'ltJi.—We were all day passing through 
 the Malacca Straits; the weather is most delightful, and 
 the sea as smooth as a pond. In looking through the 
 
HONG-KONG TO CEYLON. 159 
 
 2rlass we cmild see the mainland of Malacca on one side, 
 and the island of Sumatra on the other. Through the 
 day we passed quite a number of lai'ge shi])s. 
 
 December IStJi. — This morning early we arrive at 
 Penang, having been fully forty hours on our pa-sage 
 from Singapore. The native l)oats made a raid upon 
 the passengers by the time the ship's anchor touched 
 bottom ; we finally secured a small boat and went on 
 shore, where we found carriages in ]-eadiness to convey 
 the passengers either to the hotels or over the island. 
 We hired a conveyance, and rode out to the mountains; 
 here we saw a waterfall, which the natives consider the 
 most interestino; natural curiosity in the island. This 
 cascade has its source from the summit of the mountains, 
 some two thousand feet above the sea. After makinof a 
 considerable ascent, we reached a brawling torrent, and 
 followed its bank under the shade of palm and spice 
 trees till we came to a small Hindoo temple, adorned 
 with a rustic veranda of palm-bushes, but looking rather 
 dila[)idated in consequence of its- great antiquity. Here 
 we were welcomed by the Brahman priest, who expected 
 a little money to assist in keeping the temple in repair. 
 We rested a while under a shade-tree, and then our valet 
 conducted us to an adjoining wood to gather nutmegs 
 and cloves. Ascending from here some two or three 
 hundred feet, over natural stone steps, we came to the 
 basin into which the torrent plunges, for a hundred feet 
 or more, breaking into sparkling jets as it dashes against 
 the granite rocks. Descending to the plain, where we 
 had left our carriage, we found that our attendants had 
 
1(50 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 spread upon a tal)le boiled chickens, boiled eggs, and 
 cold liam, for those who wished a good lunch. 
 
 Penang is an island, situated about a mile from the 
 mainland, and is about the size of Staten Island in the 
 bay of New York. It is broken and mountainous ; some 
 parts are heavily timbered, and the brushwood so thick 
 that it cannot be penetrated. Here we had pointed out 
 to us the snake-grass, which is a small speai-, and on 
 which the snakes subsist. It is said that this island 
 abounds with serpents and other reptiles of a dangerous 
 character. A snake twenty-six feet in length was capt- 
 ured in the jungle last week, and some have been taken 
 much larger. 
 
 On all these islands near the equator there is a great 
 amount of rainfall. When the sunny sky is perfectly 
 clear, drops of rain will come down of the size of peas, 
 and then it will stop for the space of a few hours. In 
 consequence of the hot weather, shrubbery, vegetation, 
 and wooded thickets, grow much more thriftily than in 
 colder climates. 
 
 The city of Penang is even more beautiful, at least 
 some parts of it, than Singapore, and the country as- 
 sumes the same luxuriant, tropical appearance, abound- 
 ing in spice, palm, and cocoanut groves. Just across the 
 river from here, about one mile distant on the mainland, 
 there is a fearful war raging between the English colo- 
 nists and the natives. After rambling all the forenoon 
 we returned on board quite fatigued, but what we had 
 seen was most interesting. 
 
 At four o'clock in the afternoon we resume our jour- 
 
HONG-KONG TO CEYLON. 
 
 161 
 
 iiey, en route for Ceylon. As we are steaming out of the 
 liarbor we pass by a large emigi-ant-sliip, loaded with 
 coolies, supposed to be bound for the West Indies. The 
 weather is clear, and the sea smooth. 
 
 December V^tli. — This morning w^e find ourselves on 
 the great Indian Ocean. This being the Sabbath, divine 
 service was administered in the English form by Captain 
 
 NATIVE OF SAIGON. 
 
 Grant, one of the passengers, of the English Eoyal Navy. 
 On shipboard, in the English Navy, the administration 
 of divine service, at least once on every Sabbath, is made 
 a compulsory duty.^ 
 
 Last evening we passed over the ninety-eightli me- 
 ridian of east longitude, which brings us on a direct line 
 over the city of New York. The sky is clouded over 
 and at intervals raining; wind light. Thermometer 76°. 
 
162 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 Ship's course west by nortli; latitude 5° 59' nortli, lon- 
 i^itude 96° 44' east. Distance run, up to 12 m., two hun- 
 dred and thirty-two miles. This morning early, while 
 Mrs. Winants was dressing, she ordered the side-port 
 connected with the state-room to be opened, in order to 
 obtain fresh air, and a few moments after one sinirle 
 sea rushed through and completely flooded the room. 
 Toward evening we are in sight of the island of Sumatra, 
 upon which war is and has been raging for the last two 
 years, between the Dutch colonists and the natives. 
 From reports received the Dutch are getting the worst 
 of the fiofht. 
 
 Decemher 'iOth. — Indian Ocean. The weather is most 
 delightful, with little or no wind, and the ocean is as 
 smooth as glass. Thermometer 84°. Course west ; lati- 
 tude 6° 5' north, longitude 91° 44' east. Distance run, 
 up to 12 M., two hundred and ninety-eight miles. Our 
 crew of sailors and waiters are Malays ; they run up the 
 rigging as quickly as monkeys, and are ready at every 
 call. Captain Anderson said that he preferred them to 
 English seamen, being more easily managed, but they 
 cannot endure a cold climate. 
 
 December 2 Is^.— Indian Ocean. The weather is clear 
 and charming, and the sea is as smooth as a mirror. 
 Thermometer 82°. Course west; latitude 6° north, lon- 
 gitude 86° 48' east. Distance run, up to 12 m., two hun- 
 dred and ninety-nine miles. 
 
 Decemher 22d. — Indian Ocean. Weather very fine, 
 wind light from the northwest, and sea smooth. Ther- 
 mometer 82°. Course west; latitude 6° 7' north, longi- 
 
, HONG-KONG TO CEYLON. ^gg 
 
 tude 82° 21' east. Distance run, up to 12 m., two hun- 
 dred and sixty-six miles. 
 
 December 23c/. — This morning early we arrive at Point 
 de Galle, Ceylon, having been fourteen days on our pas- 
 sage from Hong-Kong. Here we are again surrounded 
 by the native boatmen. Their boats are different from 
 any that I have yet seen ; the boat itself is some twenty 
 feet long, and only two feet in width, and about as deei:), 
 canoe model, and with two poles about six feet long 
 running across the boat, one forward, the other astern, 
 attached to a log of the length of the boat to keep the 
 craft from turning over; and, instead of rowing in tlie 
 ordinary way, one man pulls with a single oar and an- 
 other steers the craft with a long sweep. We land at 
 the custom-house wharf, where our baggage undergoes a 
 slight examination by the officers in charge, and we are 
 then driven to the Oriental Hotel ; board seven rupees 
 per day. Rupees are the currency of the country, and 
 are worth forty-eight cents of American coin each ; they 
 are of silver, nearly of the weight and size of the Amer- 
 ican half dollar, and j^ass current throughout the whole 
 of British India. 
 
CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 CEYLON. 
 
 The island of Ceylon is situated about three hundred 
 and fifty miles north of the equator ; its greatest length 
 is two hundred and eighty miles, and breadth one hun- 
 dred and forty miles. This island constitutes a distinct 
 British province, and is under the control and super- 
 vision of the British Government. The face of the coun- 
 try is mountainous, but the soil is rich in fertility, well 
 timbered with a large variety of spice, royal palm, and 
 Oriental shade-trees. In the interior of the island asfri- 
 cultural pursuits are more extensive ; the principal crops 
 are coffee and rice, and on some plantations the tea-plant 
 is cultivated, but does not thrive as in colder climates. 
 Nearly all kinds of vegetables are raised in every part 
 of the island. Wild beasts are numerous; leopards, 
 elephants, tigers, and a variety of smaller animals, are 
 captured upon the island. 
 
 The natives are almost as dark as the West India 
 negro, with small features, long, glossy-black hair, and 
 thin lips, possessing a mild and inoffensive countenance, 
 and pleasant manners ; even the most lowly of them, on 
 meeting strangers, will make a graceful bow. 
 
 There is only about five degrees' difference in the cli- 
 mate between summer and winter : the thermometer 
 
CEYLON. 1(35 
 
 during the winter, on an average, in the shade, stands 
 at about 85°, and in the summer it rarely rises above 
 90°. During our sojourn of ten days, the mercury has 
 stood at an average of 85° ; I must confess, however, that 
 it is rather warm for winter, but during the evenings we 
 experienced a soft, gentle breeze from off the sea, and 
 found a blanket comfortable. During the day, from ten 
 to four o'clock, it is desirable to keep in the shade and 
 remain quiet, to avoid sunstroke. 
 
 December 24:th. — To-day in walking out we are be- 
 sieged by the natives, who would follow wherever we 
 went, enticing us to buy specialties of the country, such 
 as turtle-shell- work jewelry, canes, birds, pearls, ivory 
 ornaments, and polecats. When we declined to purchase 
 at the price asked, they would then say, " What will 
 you give ? " and we generally bought for less than one- 
 half the price originally asked. The money-brokers are 
 another pest, doing their official business on the street, 
 and following the stranger from pillar to post. Scores 
 of them kept on our track, day after day, offering rupees 
 in exchange for foreign coin. These brokers are very 
 shrewd and bright, and could compute the difference 
 and the discount in their heads, without pen or pencil, 
 quicker than we Americans. 
 
 December "Ihth. — This being Christmas-day, the hotel 
 in which we are boarding is beautifully trimmed ; the 
 veranda, which reaches the entire length of the building, 
 is beautifully decorated with a complete network of ever- 
 greens and flowers, the work having been executed the 
 evening previous by the natives. From many of the 
 
166 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 public offices and buildings, and the shipping in the 
 harbor, the British flag was seen proudly floating to the 
 blossom-laden breeze. 
 
 In the forenoon we attended divine service in the 
 Protestant Reformed church, which is a neat edifice, and 
 beautifully located on an eminence fronting on and over- 
 looking the sea. The congregation consisted principally 
 of natives, who were neatly clad, and paid marked atten- 
 tion to the service. The choir numbers some twenty 
 native singers of both sexes, accompanied by an organ, 
 the combination producing very pretty music. 
 
 December ^Qth. — :This being the Sabbath, we again 
 attended at the Protestant Keformed church, both morn- 
 and evening. The building was very well filled, princi- 
 pally by the native element. They have established a 
 mission-school here to educate the young in English, 
 which is said to be well conducted, under the auspices 
 of English teachers. The school-house is beautifully 
 situated on an eminence under the shade of Oriental 
 trees, through which the -gentle breezes blow soft and 
 frao-rant alono; the coast. 
 
 December 2^th. — To-day we proposed going on a visit 
 to Kandy — which is situated nearly in the centre of the 
 island, and is reached by riding seventy-two miles in a 
 heavy coach drawn by four horses, and about forty miles 
 by rail in addition — but, as we knew the roads to be 
 dusty, and the weather very hot, we declined making 
 the excursion. 
 
 Point de Galle is the principal stopping-place for 
 steamers going to and from London to India, China, 
 
CEYLON. 1^^ 
 
 Australia, and many other Eastern and Southern ports, 
 and it is also the great central coaling-station. Sailing- 
 ships are constantly engaged bringing coal from Eng- 
 land, around by the way of the Cape of Good Hope, for 
 the use of the numerous steamers stopping at this point. 
 
 The island of Ceylon is conceded by many to be the 
 paradise of the world, both in scenery and climate. The 
 air is laden with sweet-scented odors, blowing gently 
 from off the spicy forests, and the entire face of the coun- 
 try is covered with the royal palm and a great variety 
 of tropical fruit-trees. 
 
 '\^ l^December 1'^tli. — To-day a native missionary minister 
 of the gospel called on me, soliciting a donation to assist 
 the mission in the construction of a new school-liouse. 
 He said that he had been converted from Buddhism to 
 Christianity when young, and was educated by the mis- 
 sionaries for the ministry, and that he had by assiduous 
 application brought many of his countrymen to the true 
 knowledo-e of salvation. 
 
 December 2^th. — Both males "and females go bare- 
 footed and bareheaded. Their costume is often so sim- 
 ilar that the only way in which they can be distin- 
 guished is by their long black hair : th.e men have theirs 
 put up with combs ; the women theirs tied in a knot upon 
 the top of the head. This afternoon we ride out in the 
 country through the heavy forests, which are thickly 
 studded v/ith the cocoanut - tree. The cocoanut - tree 
 is of all palms most deservedly valued, as one of the 
 greatest of the many blessings bestowed by a bountiful 
 Providence upon the inhabitants of a tropical climate. 
 
168 AROUND TEE WORLD. 
 
 It is a common saying that tlie cocoanut-tree lias ninety- 
 nine uses, and that the hundredth cannot be discovered. 
 This palm is from sixty to a hundred feet in height, one 
 or two feet in diameter, and as straight as a reed ; there 
 are no branches upon the trunk of the tree till within a 
 few feet of the top, which is crowned with magnificent 
 clusters of fruit and leaves, each leaf about fourteen feet 
 in length, resembling an enormous feather. It grows 
 best on the low, flat grounds that border the sea-coast. 
 It is a very prolific tree, bringing forth flowers every 
 four or five weeks ; the flowers and the fruit are gener- 
 ally to be seen at the same time. Of the roots baskets 
 are made ; of the hollowed trunks pipes for leading 
 water ; from the leaf coarse sack-cloth is manufactured ; 
 the bud is accounted a delicacy for the table ; the leaves 
 are used for thatching buildings, for making baskets, 
 fences, and children's cradles ; and the nut furnishes the 
 chief diet of the Cingalese. The woody ribs upon whicli 
 the leaves grow are formed into a kind of basket-work 
 for catching fish, and into brushes and bi'ooms ; when 
 the wood is burned, good potash is yielded by the ashes, 
 and used by washer-women instead of soap; the juice of 
 the flower is distilled into a beverage called arrack, the 
 excessive drinking of which brings on intoxication ; the 
 coarse covering of the nut is stripped oif and made into 
 cables and rigging for ships, and many other uses.. 
 
 The bread-fruit tree is also to be seen intermingled 
 with the forests ; it is about forty feet high, having a 
 trunk much larger than the palm, resembling more the 
 oak, with the exception of the leaves, which are much 
 
CEYLON. ■ 1(^9 
 
 larger tlian the oak-leaf, and the fruit hangs from the 
 "branches like apples, but will weigh from eight to ten 
 pounds each. The Cingalese are proud of the bread- 
 fruit tree, and two or three may always be seen around 
 a native cottage, shading it with their 2:)rolific branches. 
 It bears fruit in five years, from the liranch set out, and 
 will continue to bear, even in its wild state, for more 
 than half a century. By baking the fruit over a slow 
 tire it is made into flour, and then into bread, upon which 
 the natives principally subsist, and which is considered 
 bv them the staff of life. 
 
 There is still another valuable tree, which \ve see 
 growing wild in the forest, called the jaca, and which is 
 much laro^er than the bread-fruit tree, the trunk beinof 
 from five to six feet in circumference ; the fruit is oblong 
 and large, ten to twelve pounds in weight, and the na- 
 tives eat it freely. Many different kinds of sj^ice and 
 nut trees may be seen growing wild in the thick forests. 
 I am informed that there is not a shrub, tree, or plant, 
 growing upon the islands bordering upon the equator, 
 that is not of some benefit to the inhabitants. 
 
 Ceylon can well be called the paradise of the world, 
 for Providence has provided the people with all luxuries 
 imaginable. Besides her forests being filled with wild 
 game in abundance, her trees bring forth fruit, both for 
 food and beverage ; her rivers and bays are filled with 
 a variety of fine fish, all sent by Him who rules over the 
 universe, to feed the peoj)le in this heathen and far-off 
 land. 
 
 December SOth. — This afternoon we took a ride around 
 
 12 
 
170 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 the bay. We stopped on tlie way at some of the prin- 
 cipal bungalows, and also at the Buddhist temple, where 
 we were sho^vn the idols and gods which they worship. 
 There were some eight or ten priests in and around this 
 small temple, whose dress consisted of a large yellow 
 shawl wrapped around the bare l)ody. They were the 
 most forlorn specimens of humanity I ever saw, Avithout 
 
 NATITCH GIRLS. 
 
 shoes or hats, and having their hair shaved close to the 
 head. The priests in this country are not allowed to 
 marry, or keep concubines. Whenever one of them dies, 
 the body is burned upon an altar, and the ashes, put in 
 a stone jar, are offered up in sacrifice unto idols. 
 
 December ^Ist. — Whenever we go into the streets, 
 either to walk or ride, we are pestered with beggars; 
 there seems to be no end of them. This afternoon while 
 
CEYLON. ]7l 
 
 riding out, a large canipaiiy of men and boys followed 
 tlie carriage for two or three miles; as one crowd tired 
 out, in going tlirougli some village, a new set would 
 spring up and keep pace with the horses. We saw but 
 few women, for they kept more in the huts. As we 
 were passing through the woods a guana came out of a 
 swamp. This reptile resembles the alligator, excepting 
 that it has a tongue like a snake. Those that inhabit 
 the swamps and rivers are black, and those living on the 
 land are gray; they are often from twelve to fifteen feet 
 long. On our return "\ve stopped in a cinnamon-grove, 
 and got some bark. 
 
 January 1, 1876. — This is the warmest New-Year's- 
 ■day that I have ever experienced, the thermometer in- 
 dicating 86° in the shade. The colonists, and also some 
 of the natives, observed it as a general holiday. In walk- 
 ing out through the woods, in the cool of the day, we 
 •came to a very fine bungalow. The gate was open, and 
 we concluded to walk in the grounds, where we were 
 politely met by a middle-aged gentleman, who, after 
 plucking some flowers for us, extended us an invitation 
 to go and see his father, to which we gave our consent. 
 We found the old gentleman sitting on the front veranda. 
 He said he knew that we were Americans ; that he was 
 at all times glad to see and talk with people from the 
 New World, for he had heard that it was a fine country, 
 and it had once been ruled by George Washington, one 
 of the greatest statesmen of any age of the world's his- 
 tory. He said he was eighty-six years of age, and had 
 three sons. I asked him how he liked his queen; he 
 
172 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 said that Queen Victoria was a lady of liigli -toned cliar- 
 acter, and had been a good ruler, much better than his 
 countrymen, who are incapable of governing themselves. 
 January 2d. — This morning early the steamship 
 Surat, Captain Burn, arrived in port from London, on 
 which we engaged passage for Calcutta, distance thirteen 
 hundred and thirty miles; fare twenty rupees, or ten 
 dollars' each, being pi'obably the cheapest passage in the 
 world for so long a distance. But this is easily accounted 
 for, as there are some two or three rival lines between 
 Ceylon and Calcutta ; the regular fare on certain days, 
 when the opposing shij)s are not in, is one hundred and 
 sixty rupees. The Surat is of three thousand tons' bur- 
 den, full-rigged, built of iron, propelled by a stern-screw, 
 and belongs to the English mail Peninsular and Oriental 
 line. After taking tiffin, or lunch, at the hotel, we pay 
 our bills and hasten on board. We have in company 
 some tMrty-five first-class passengers, the most of whom 
 were direct from London, en route for Calcutta, 
 
CHAPTER XV. 
 
 CEYLOlSr TO CALCUTTA. 
 
 January 3d. — Bay of Bengal. We are all day in 
 siy'lit of land, and sailing along the westerly coast of 
 Ceylon. The weatlier is most charming, wind light, and 
 sea smooth. Thermometer 80°. Course north by west 5 
 latitude 7° 5' north, longitude 82° 3' east. Distance run, 
 up to 12 :\r., one hundred and fifty^four miles. 
 
 January Uh. — Bay of Bengal. Weather line, and 
 sea smooth. Thermometer 80°. Course north by west; 
 latitude 10° north, longitude 81° 8' east. Distance run, 
 up to 12 M,, two hundred and forty-five miles. 
 
 January oth. — This morning early we arrived at Ma- 
 dras, India. Our ship dropped anchor about one mile from 
 the shore, which is a very rough and dangerous place 
 to land. We are carried on shore in a laro;e surf-boat 
 manned by fourteen natives, twelve pulling at the oars, 
 one steerino; the boat, and one or two standins; in readi- 
 ness to bale water as it occasionally broke over the bows. 
 As the boat approached the sandy beach, we were nearly 
 swamped by the angry breakers ; the sailors, in great 
 haste, sprang from the boat into the surf, and carried us 
 in sedan-chairs upon dry land. At times, when the sea 
 is very rough, ships do not venture to land, but both 
 freight and passengers are carried to Calcutta. 
 
174 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 We are now landed on tlie great continent of ludia^ 
 containing a population of over two liundred million 
 souls, with a territory covering one and a half million 
 square miles. How strange it seems that this dominion 
 of India, with such a large population, can be controlled 
 by the far-off island of Great Britain, w^hich contains only 
 
 MADRAS SURF. 
 
 thirty million ! And yet there is a reason for it : weak 
 and ignorant tribes and nations are generally found de- 
 pendent on stronger and more enlightened ones, and are 
 often absorbed by them. All Christian and prosperous 
 nations must expand. If practicable, the exj^ansion will 
 be made on adjacent regions ; if not practicable, it will 
 then be made in those regions, however distant, which 
 
CEYLON TO CALCUTTA. 175 
 
 offer tlie least resistance. The British conquests in India 
 are so recent, that the civil government can hardly yet 
 be said to be consolidated. AVithin this vast territory 
 there are three great presidencies — Madras, Bengal, and 
 Bombay. The northern and eastern portions of the ter- 
 ritory are divided into provinces. A viceroy, or gov- 
 ernor-general, appointed by the Queen of Great Britain 
 for four years, resides in Calcutta and administers a form 
 of federal government, while each presidency and j^rov- 
 ince has its own local administration. 
 
 We first saw the city of Madras from the sea, and it 
 seemed commanding and beautiful, a city of European 
 aspect stretching some three or four miles along the 
 border of the sandy shore, upon a low and level plain, 
 and containing over four hundred thousand people. We 
 hasten on and make the best use of our time, by visiting 
 some of the principal shops and edifices. We find the 
 weather excessively hot, and one day is quite sufiacient 
 for all that is to be seen. Mr. Fowler, one of the pas- 
 sengers, who joined us on shipboard at San Francisco, 
 remained over, expecting to sail for Calcutta by the fol- 
 lowing ship of this line. At eight o'clock in the evening 
 the ship's anchor was vfeighed, and we resumed our jour- 
 ney en route for Calcutta. 
 
 January 6fJ<. — Bay of Bengal. Weather fine, wind 
 light from the north, and sea smooth. Thermometer 80°. 
 Ship's course north by west; latitude 15° 8' north, lon- 
 gitude 82° 12' east. Distance run, \\j) to 12 m., one hun- 
 dred and sixty-seven miles. 
 
 January ItJi. — Bay of Bengal. Weather fine, sea 
 
176 .AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 smooth, not a ripple being visible on its surface. Ther- 
 mometer 81°. Course north by west; latitude 18° 14' 
 north, longitude 85° 14' east. Distance run, up to 12 m., 
 two hundred and fifty-four miles. 
 
 January Sth. — Ba}^ of Bengal. The weather charm- 
 ing, and tlie sea is like glass. In the mirror-like waters 
 occasionally we see a water-snake swiming playfully over 
 the surface near the shij:), and it was most amusing to 
 hnar some of the more timid lady passengers order the 
 waiters to close the outside 2:>orts of their staterooms, 
 lest a snake should crawl up the ship's side and take 
 possession ! Thermometer 80°. Course west-northwest : 
 latitude 21° 24' north, longitude 85° 8' east. Distance 
 run, up to 12 m., two hundred and sixty-four miles. 
 
 We met quite a number of sailing-shi2:)s on their pas- 
 sage, going both into and out of Calcutta, one of whose 
 decks was literally crowded with coolies, destined as ^vas 
 supposed to servitude in some foreign country. This 
 afternoon at two o'clock the ship came to anchor in the 
 mouth of the Hoogly River, abreast of Tiger Island, wait- 
 ing for the flood-tide. It is said that this large and 
 lonely island, covered with brushwood, abounds with 
 tigers and other beasts of prey. There is a monument 
 on the island marking the spot where a young woman 
 was carried ofl^ by a tiger. A vessel from America 
 was detained by the tide, as often happens at this point, 
 and a number of the passengers concluded to go on shore. 
 While they were strolling in the thicket, a lady, one of 
 the party, strayed a little from the rest of the company, 
 when presently a screaui from the woman was heard ; 
 
CEYLON TO CALCUTTA. 177 
 
 ier companions ran to lier assistance, but arrived only 
 in time to see lier carried off by a tiger. Some of our 
 passengers proposed taking tlie sliip's gig and going 
 asliore on the opposite side of the river from Tiger 
 Island, but both Captain Burn and the ship's pilot ad- 
 vised us not to venture, for fear of injury from the wild 
 animals infesting the jungles. 
 
 January 9fh. — Calcutta is situated on tbe Hoogly 
 Kiver, about one hundred miles from its mouth ; the 
 Hoogly is one of the principal outlets of the Ganges. 
 This morning at seven o'clock the ship's anchor was 
 raised, and we resumed our course for Calcutta. In a few 
 minutes after getting under way, our skip collided with 
 a native junk, and before the ship's life-boat could be 
 lowered from the davits the little craft had sunk to the 
 bottom, leaving its crew of fifteen sailors floating upon 
 the surface of the water. Fortunately they were all res- 
 cued from a watery grave. When they were brought 
 on deck, the ship's officers ordered rice for their break- 
 fast. In consequence of the detention caused by this 
 accident, our steamer lost the flood-tide, and at twelve 
 o'clock anchored, where we had to remain till the next 
 morning for the high tide, in order to cross the bar, 
 
 January lOth. — This morning at ten o'clock the ship 
 again got under way. Most of the passengers were 
 anxious to get to Calcutta, but we were not so much 
 limited in time, and, being in smooth water, with de- 
 lightful scenery on both sides of the river, felt that 
 we were quite as well off" on shipboard, with a bountiful 
 table, as we probably would be in any other place. 
 
178 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 The lower parts of the banks of the Hoogly River are 
 co^^ered with mid jungles, through which are scattered, 
 sometimes in groves, the cocoanut and other palms, the 
 whole landscape assuming a strictly Oi'iental aspect. 
 The river is a dangerous one, and can only be navigated 
 ]jy daylight, on account of the numerous sand-banks, 
 which shift during every heavy freshet. 
 
 As we approach the city of Calcutta, the signs of 
 cultivation become more fi'equent. For several miles 
 the river on either side is lined with rich plantations 
 and costly residences, mingled -with Oriental shade-trees, 
 and surrounded by magnificent vegetable and flower 
 gardens. 
 
 In sight of Calcutta, on the opposite side of the river, 
 is situated the palace of the ex-King of Oude, who was 
 dethroned by the East India Company, and brought to 
 Calcutta as a prisoner of state. He was allowed to 
 retain a great part of his wealth. The buildings are very 
 pretty, extending a long distance upon the river-banks; 
 here stands his temple, the dome of which is covered 
 with burnished gold, dazzling to look upon in the bright 
 sunlight. We were detained for nearly two hours oppo- 
 site his grounds, partly in getting the ship into the dock, 
 and partly in waiting for the custom-house ofiicials, and 
 had abundance of time to examine the beauties of the 
 place. At length the custom-house officers came on 
 board, and examined the passengers' trunks. We did 
 not wait for the ship to get alongside the wharf, but 
 took a native craft. As we approached the shore, w^e 
 saw gathered together crowds of people ; all nations and 
 
CEYLON TO CALCUTTA. 179 
 
 all costumes seemed to be I'epresented, and by the time 
 our boat reached the landing scores of them made a rush 
 for our baggage, and it was necessary for us to shout, 
 and fight our way through the crowd the best we could 
 to prevent it from being carried off. Before leaving the 
 ship we made a bargain, in plain English, as to what the 
 price should be to carry us on shore, and our trunks up 
 the bank, about fifty feet distant, to the gharries, or car- 
 riages, for which the carriers demanded additional pay. 
 I refused in the most emphatic manner to pay any more 
 than the sum agreed upon, and, if they would carry the 
 trunks uj) the bank and j)lace them on the gJiarry, I 
 should pay them, but not before. After all had been 
 done, more than a dozen gathered around, 'each one de- 
 manding enough for all, whether he liad touched our 
 baggage or not. At length I settled with the man with 
 whom I had made the bargain, by handing him wliat I 
 thofight right, and told the noisy crowd to look to him 
 for their dues. 
 
 We were driven to the Great Eastern Hotel, where 
 we arrived at six o'clock in the afternoon, and were fur- 
 nished with good rooms for six rupees per day for each 
 person. In addition to the two rooms which we occu- 
 pied, we had a bath-room, which is desirable in a hot 
 climate. 
 
 The Great Eastern is run by a company, and is the 
 largest hotel in Calcutta. The table was supplied with 
 the most delicious fruits, and all the necessaries of life 
 in abundance. The servants were so numerous that they 
 were often in each other's way. With their dusky forms, 
 
180 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 clothed in white from head to foot, movino; about with- 
 out shoes, and uttering not a word, they seemed like so 
 many lost spirits. When waiting on us at table, they 
 wore white-muslin hats, with immense brims covered 
 with the same material ; when we retired at night we 
 signified to them, as plainly as we could, that their 
 duties for the day were over, and tliat we no longer re- 
 quired their services. Closing tLe door, we fancied that 
 we bad seen the last of them for the night ; but scarcely 
 bad we turned round when the same dark gbosts in 
 white stood before us, and when I awoke in the morn- 
 ing, on opening tbe door, the same forms were lying on 
 the floor, awaiting orders for tbe day. 
 
CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 CALCUTTA. 
 
 January 11th. — The city of Calcutta is pleasantly 
 situated on tlie banks of tLe Hoogly Eiver, about one 
 hundred miles from the ocean. It contains some seven 
 hundred and fifty thousand inhabitants, and is conceded 
 to be the finest city in the East. Some of the largest and 
 finest sailing-ships in the world enter her port, and her 
 commerce is with all the earth. Calcutta may be called 
 the European capital of Asia, for it has been the seat of 
 the British Empire in the East for more than a century, 
 and the impress of British energy and influence is seen 
 and felt on every hand. 
 
 By many Calcutta is regarded as a city of palaces. 
 Here are the residences of the merchants, and those con- 
 nected with the civil and military service, whose dwell- 
 ings may in truth be called palaces, standing as they do 
 in the midst of squares, surrounded by a profusion of 
 trees, shrubs, and flowers. Some of the dwellings are 
 massive, but not architecturally beautiful. The acacia, 
 mango, bamboo, and the stately palm — the glory of the 
 tropics — are seen in the gardens ; but that part of Cal- 
 cutta occupied by the natives presents a dingy and dirty 
 appearance, and it would be a most difficult matter to 
 keep it otherwise, for the streets are narrow and literally 
 
182 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 filled with people. In that part occupied by Europeans, 
 however, the streets are beautifully macadamized and 
 bordered with shade-trees. A large number of coolies 
 are employed in watering the streets, each waterman 
 having, instead of a cart, a goatskin shaped like an im- 
 mense bottle left open at the neck, and suspended by a 
 strap over the shoulders of the coolie, who, seizing the 
 neck with one hand, throws the water hither and thither, 
 transformino; the dust into mud. 
 
 The city of Calcutta has undergone many vicissitudes, 
 and witnessed many exciting and bloody events. Dur- 
 ing the conflict of 1756, between the Hindoos and the 
 English, when Fort William was taken by Surajah 
 Dowlah, Nabob of Bengal, a feeble garrison being left 
 to defend the fort after the Governor and others had 
 escaped to the shijDS, the prisoners, one hundred and 
 forty-six in number, were imprisoned in a room only 
 eighteen feet square, with two small windows (what is 
 now known the world over as the Black Hole of Cal- 
 cutta). On the 18th of June, during a sultry night, they 
 were shut up without water or food, or any means of 
 relief. Mr. Holwell, an English officer, and one of the 
 unfortunate inmates, has described in detail the horrors 
 of that fatal night, which are scarcely paralleled in the 
 annals of human misery. Every moment added to their 
 distress, but all attempts to obtain relief were in vain. 
 Messengers were sent to the nabob to inform him of 
 the terrible sufterings of the prisoners, and the answer 
 came back that he was asleep and his attendants dared 
 not wake him, fearing that, if disturbed, he might treat 
 
CALCUTTA. 133 
 
 his captives with still greater inhumanity. The air of 
 the prison soon became pestilential, producing at every 
 respii'ation of the poor wretches a feeling of suffocation ; 
 the perspiration flowed in streams, and they were tor- 
 mented with the most burning thirst. As the sufferers 
 grew weaker, they began to be squeezed or trampled to 
 death. Loud shouts were raised for water, and when 
 the Hindoo soldiers without heard their cries, they 
 brouo-ht lio'hts to witness their sufferinsrs and mock at 
 them. At about eleven o'clock the prisoners began to 
 die fast; six of Howell's intimate friends expired at his 
 feet, and were trampled upon by the survivors. A great 
 proportion were raving or delirious ; some uttered inco- 
 herent prayers, others the most frightful blasphemies. 
 They endeavored by their cries to induce the guards to 
 fire the prison, and put an end to their sufferings, but 
 without effect. When day dawned upon that fatal night, 
 the few 2^risoners who had not died were either raving 
 mad or insensible. At six in the morning the nabob 
 made his apj^earance, and, on his learning the events of 
 the night, he gave orders to unbar the fatal door, and 
 out of the one hundred and forty-six captives only 
 twentj^-three ghastly forms had just life enough left to 
 crawl from the dark hole when the door was opened ; 
 the remaining one hundred and twenty-three lay piled 
 upon the floor, a heap of putrid corj^ses. No scene con- 
 nected with Calcutta is more indelibly graven on the 
 memory of the world than this. 
 
 After Mr. Howell had been revived by the fresh air, 
 the nabob ordered for him a seat and a cup of water, but 
 
184 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 sliowed no otlier mark of sympathy, and immediately 
 commenced a strict inquiry about the supposed treasure 
 hid in some part of the fort which had been taken on 
 the previous day. Mr. Howell tried to explain to him 
 that he had no knowledge of the money, but rather sup- 
 posed the Governor had taken the treasure on board the 
 ships, which had a tendency to reconcile the nabob, so 
 he sent Mr. Howell, with the other surviving prisoners, 
 to Moorshedabad. During the voyage they suffered 
 severely, their bodies being covered with boils that had 
 broken out in consequence of their confinement. The 
 dead bodies of the prisoners, without any ceremony, 
 were thrown into a ditch. 
 
 All the English force, both naval and military, which 
 could possibly be spared, under the command of Admiral 
 Watson, was dispatched with the greatest haste to Cal- 
 cutta. The ships arrived in the middle of December, 
 and anchored some fifteen miles below the city. Letters 
 for the nabob were forthwith sent to Calcutta, but, 
 receiving no reply, the English determined without 
 delay to commence hostilities. The admiral immedi- 
 ately moved the ships up the river, in front of Fort 
 Mayapore, which he proposed to attack on the follow- 
 ing day. Little resistance being apprehended, Colonel 
 Clive,' about midnight, landed with a large force of 
 men, with a view to cut off the retreat of the garrison 
 of the fort to Calcutta; he accordingly stationed his 
 troops in a low, hollow space, surrounded by brush- 
 wood, thinking that he was perfectly secure. The men 
 being extremely fatigued, they fell asleep without even 
 
CALCUTTA. . 185 
 
 placing a sentinel. The enemy informed the nabob of 
 their position, who sent a large detachment which made 
 an unexpected attack in the night. The English suf- 
 fered terribly before they could form theii* ranks ; their 
 two field-pieces fell into the hands of the enemy, who 
 fortunately knew not how to use them, and they were 
 afterward recovered. Colonel Clive resolved not to 
 retreat, lest his troops should be struck with panic ; and 
 when they were at length lallied, and formed in order 
 of battle, they quickly dispersed the band of assailants. 
 
 The nabob was so much discouraged by this move- 
 ment that he left Calcutta, leaving it garrisoned by only 
 five hundred men, who surrendered almost so soon as 
 Admiral Watson had opened his batteries. The mer- 
 chandise which had been left, belonging to the English, 
 was found, it havino- been reserved for the use of the 
 nabob. 
 
 On our way up the Hoogly River, some fifteen miles 
 below Calcutta, we passed Serampore, which is beauti- 
 fully situated. Every one who is at all familiar with 
 the history of missions in the East knows how inti- 
 mately this place is associated with the names of the 
 earliest and some of the best men that have gone out to 
 preach the gospel in Asiatic countries. In the beginning 
 of the present century it was the cave in which the 
 missionaries were concealed when they were forbidden 
 to preach in British India (it then being a Danish pos- 
 session, and not under the control of the English) ; and 
 this is the spot where Carey and Ward confined them- 
 selves, to study the languages of the country. Here they 
 
 13 
 
186 • AROUND TEE WORLD. 
 
 planted their jorinting-presses, and sent forth millions 
 of pages of Christian truth into nearly all parts of Asia 
 and the islands of the sea. Here, too, Judson, several 
 years later, found a temporary refuge, when he was for- 
 bidden to land at Calcutta, as if he and his coadjutors 
 from America had been guilty of conspiring against the 
 peace of the country. 
 
 Carey was born of poor parentage, in a small town 
 in England, and aj^prenticed at the age of fourteen to 
 the business of shoemaking, which trade he seems never 
 to have mastered. " It is said that in after-years, when 
 dining at the governor-general's in India, he overheard 
 some Englishman speak of him as a shoemaker, where- 
 upon he turned around and corrected him, saying that 
 he was only a cobbler ! On his death-bed, both the 
 wife of the Governor-General of India and the Bishop of 
 Calcutta came to ask his dying blessing. While learn- 
 ing his trade in England he improved himself by read- 
 ing, and at length turned his attention to the study 
 of languages and the Bible; he was licensed by the 
 Baptists to preach the gospel. On his arrival in India 
 he was obliged to conceal himself from the knowledge 
 of the East India Company, whose policy was opposed 
 to efforts for the conversion of the natives. For several 
 years he labored in great seclusion, supporting himself 
 by working on an indigo-plantation. In the year 1800 
 he was joined by Marshman and Ward from England, 
 when they established themselves under Danish protec- 
 tion at Serampore. They applied themselves to learning 
 the languages, and began the translation of the Bible 
 
CALCUTTA. 137 
 
 into the numerous tongues of the East. They also laid 
 the foundation of a college of high order, and erected 
 for it a building which even now is regarded as one of 
 the finest structures of its kind in India ; they likewise 
 formed a fine library, now filled with the choicest works 
 of the East. 
 
 It is wonderful that a few poor missionaries could 
 do such a work, and the greater part of the expense of 
 these enterprises they bore themselves. Dr. Carey at 
 length, for his services as professor in the College of 
 Fort William at Calcutta, received a thousand rupees 
 a month, nearly equal to six thousand dollars per year ; 
 Mr. Ward received as much more in the printing-office ; 
 and Mr. and Mrs. Marshman about the same for teach- 
 ing; and yet, while they were receiving these large sums 
 for their services, they drew from the fund only twelve 
 rupees each, or six dollars a month. The remainder was 
 devoted, by mutual consent, to the purposes of the 
 mission and for spreading the gospel. The cost of one 
 version alone, which they prepared and printed, was one 
 hundred thousand dollars. The words of the agreement 
 which they signed when they entered on their work 
 were : " Let us give ourselves up unreservedly to the 
 €ause in which we are engaged ; let us never think that 
 our time, our gifts, our strength, our families, or even 
 the clothes we wear, are our own ; let us sanctify them 
 all to God and his glorious cause." They were all 
 earnest in the work, and they lived not unto themselves, 
 but as wise stewards laid their treasures where neither 
 moth nor rust doth corrupt, and where thieves do not 
 
188 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 break through nor steal; and they have passed away 
 to enjoy their rich reward. 
 
 The Zenana Mission was undertaken a few years ago 
 by the Woman's Union Missionary Society of America 
 for Heathen Lands, whose headquarters in India are at 
 Calcutta, under the superintendence of Miss Hook a 
 lady of rare culture and refinement. The ladies of the 
 mission go out daily among the zenanas, and by many 
 are cordially received. Great numbers of the wealthy 
 natives express an earnest desire to be instructed. 
 
 The Bishop's College is beautifully situated on the 
 banks of the Hoogly, some two or three miles below 
 Calcutta, and is surrounded by a botanic garden or park. 
 It was founded in the year 1820 for the purpose of train- 
 ing up, under the discipline of the Church of England, 
 young men for preachers and teachers to be employed 
 by the Church in scattering the seeds of the gospel over 
 India. The arrangements in this institution are very 
 extensive. 
 
 The Asiatic Society, located in Calcutta, was estab- 
 lished by the eminent scholar and Christian, Sir William 
 Jones, who went out to India in 1783. Having been 
 appointed to the bench of the Supreme Court of Bengal, 
 he devoted himself to the study of the languages of the 
 East, as the best means of fitting himself for usefulness 
 in India. He is said to have acquired in the course 
 of his life twenty-eight different languages, and to have 
 become familiar with the literature of each. This Asiatic 
 Society was formed for the purpose of preserving the 
 history and the memorials of India. It contains an 
 
CALCUTTA. 189 
 
 immense collection of volumes and antique manuscripts, 
 and relics of many kinds. The large building in whicL. 
 they were kept was; long since filled, so that it was 
 found necessary to construct additional buildings for 
 the accommodation of the institution. 
 
 The Government House, built during the adminis- 
 tration of the Marquis of Wellesley, has dimensions 
 perhaps one-fourth less than the Capitol at Washing- 
 ton. Its walls are brick, covered with stucco in the 
 Indian style, an excellent imitation of white marble. 
 It is inclosed with gardens, filled with a profusion of 
 Oriental shrubs and shade-trees ; but the noble arched 
 gateway is ornamented with no such modern and re- 
 publican symbol as the bird of freedom, with arrows 
 and the olive-branch in its claws, nor does the tower 
 or turret show any stars or stripes, or any modern tri- 
 colored ensign. Instead of all these, there are a lion 
 and unicorn stationed over the gateway, being more of 
 a representation of fighting for the crown than of liberty. 
 The stately cross of St. George is displayed from the 
 palace-walls ; marquees and tents cover the plain, sur- 
 mounted with the same flag, and ofiicers, soldiers, and 
 servants, are all clothed in gorgeous scarlet and gold 
 uniforms, tokens of British royal authority. The walls 
 are covered with British portraits — the most prominent 
 among them being those of George HI., and Charlotte, 
 his faithful queen ; the Earl of Chatham, General Wolfe, 
 Lord North, Lord Cornwallis, Lord Clive, and others too 
 numerous to mention. The person, stranger or other- 
 v/ise, who desires or claims notice at the vice-regal court, 
 
190 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 instead of presenting letters or leaving cards, registers 
 his name in the adjacent court. If recognized, he is 
 honored with an audience ; if not, nothing is said. It 
 is stated that when the dinner-hour arrives, and the 
 invited guests are assembled in the throne-room, stand- 
 ing, the viceroy and the Countess of Mayo enter, each 
 attended by an aide-de-camp, and they salute their guests 
 individually. The band plays during the dinner, which 
 usually takes about two hours. 
 
CHAPTEK XVIL 
 
 CALCUTTA AND ITS SIGHTS. 
 
 January 12 fh. — Kali Ghaut is the most famous of 
 the Hindoo temples in Calcutta. It has three discon- 
 nected structures; the floors of all are on one level, 
 about eight feet above the ground, and are reached by 
 flights of stone steps. The iDuilding on the right hand 
 is circular, open all arouud, ^vith roof sujDported by 
 'Hindoo columns; the central building is oblong; the 
 third and principal edifice is square, and surmounted 
 by a dome, which extends beyond the walls, and is sup- 
 ported by outside colmnns and no windows; light is 
 admitted through small niches. The building first de- 
 scribed is the hall of sacrifice, into which only Brahman 
 priests are admitted. The building last mentioned con- 
 tains the shrine of the goddess Kali, to whose service 
 the Thugs especially devoted themselves. Not even 
 its threshold is allowed to be profaned by the foot- 
 steps of the vulgar. The central edifice is the wor- 
 shipers', in which they pay their adoration. Bullocks 
 and goats are sacrificed, and there are connected wdth 
 this one temple about one hundred and fifty priests. 
 
 January I3th. — To-day Ave ride out some four or five 
 miles into the country, to the palace known as the 
 Seven Tanks. This edifice is a large building within 
 
192 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 tbe inclosure of extensive gardens, ornamented with a 
 large variety of flowers, slirubs, and shade-trees, and 
 having fish-ponds, carriage-roads, and winding pathways. 
 The lord of the palace was not at home, but, by giving 
 the waiters in charge a small fee, we were permitted to 
 enter. The walls were covered with life-size pictures of 
 the members of the family for several generations back, 
 and the tables were covered with relics of antiquity. 
 In the garden or park we saw cages filled with wild 
 animals. The huge boa-constrictors, sleeping in their 
 apartments, were captured in the north of India. The 
 ostrich, the bird-of-paradise, the pelican, the eagle, and 
 the swan, are as domesticated as if they had known no 
 other home. The fish-pond is quite deep; its inhabi- 
 tants came to the surface and fed from our hands. Here 
 we saw an immense green tortoise which weighs nearly 
 two hundred pounds, cajDable of carrying a man on his 
 back. Tbe cages contained a variety of wild animals, 
 the ferocious black bear, the tiger, and the lion, among 
 the most prominent. 
 
 January \Mli. — To-day we take a ride to the Eoyal 
 Botanical Garden, situated on the opposite side of the 
 river from Calcutta. The grounds cover two hundred 
 and seventy-two acres, and have a river-frontage on the 
 Hoogly of over a mile. The roads are beautifully laid 
 out, and the whole of the grounds may be gone over 
 without leaving a carriage. To the left we passed by 
 a mahogany-grove, and a variety of palms and other 
 shade-trees. We at length come to the great banyan- 
 tree, the pride of India. This wonderful tree is said 
 
CALCUTTA AND ITS SIGHTS. I93 
 
 to be several hundred years old, and the largest of its 
 kind in the country, covering a sj^ace of ground eight 
 hundred feet in circumference ; it measures around its 
 trunk fifty-one feet, and one hundred and seventy of its 
 branches descend to the ground and have taken root, 
 presenting one of the most novel sights ever witnessed, 
 and people come from all j^arts to see it. 
 
 During the afternoon we ride out to Fort William, 
 which is very handsomely situated on the banks of the 
 Hoogly River. The fort is in the form of an irregular 
 octagon, with five sides toward the land and three tow- 
 ard the river ; it is surrounded by a dry moat or ditch, 
 which can be filled in a short space of time with water 
 by a sluice from the river. The fort is situated on a 
 plain, on gently-rising ground, and contains six hundred 
 mounted guns. It is caj^able of accommodating fifty 
 thousand men, and is the largest fortification in India. 
 
 On our return to the city we stopped at the Garden 
 of Eden. The name, however, is not a synonym for 
 paradise, as might be supj^osed, but was bestowed in 
 compliment to Miss Eden, the sister of Earl Godolphin, 
 a former Governor-General of India. Brilliant gas-lights 
 sparkled through the dark foliage of mango, palm, and 
 cypress trees, with music from a central stand. It was a 
 gay scene to look upon, and we promenaded on the green 
 lawns for an hour, listening to the music and surrounded 
 by groups of gentlemen, ladies, and children ; army of- 
 ficers in full dresSy stately baboos in white cambric, dusky 
 Sepoy guards in white-and-red uniforms, rajahs in jew- 
 eled turbans and gold-embroidered robes, and Moham- 
 
194 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 medans in the background on their knees — the latter 
 with their faces toward Mecca, repeating their prayers. 
 
 That portion of the city between the Garden of Eden 
 and Fort William is one continual park, forming the 
 great fashionable drive of Calcutta. Every evening just 
 before sunset, when the heat of the day has passed, the 
 whole town turns out for an hour's drive up and down 
 the strand, which is one of the gayest and most beautiful 
 sights to be seen in the suburbs of any city, and one of 
 the most peculiar ; in no part of the world is there any- 
 thing to equal it. The Euroj^eans, with their gay equi- 
 pages, from the viceroy's scarlet and gold down to the 
 unpretending gJiarry, move on in a steady line, some- 
 times three, four, or five abreast, until night comes on. 
 The occupants of the carriages are mostly Europeans, 
 but the entire scene is decidedly Oriental ; some of the 
 coachmen and footmen are fine specimens of the various 
 tribes of India, all in native costume, the colors and style 
 of which are as varied as the laces of Hindostan, all of 
 whom seem to be in high glee. 
 
 We also visited the place on the banks of the river 
 where the Hindoos burn the dead, which is one of the 
 most loathsome sights that I have ever witnessed. On 
 our arrival a dead human body had just been placed on 
 the funeral-pile ; in a short time the hot flames consumed 
 the body, and the ashes were collected by the priest and 
 thrown into the river. While the fire was doing its 
 work, the mourners and friends of the deceased sat flat 
 upon the ground witnessing the fearful scene, which to 
 them is as sacred as the religion they profess. Every 
 
CALCUTTA AND ITS SIGHTS. 195 
 
 day a number of dead bodies are disposed of in tliis 
 manner. 
 
 We called at the office of A. C. Litchfield, consul- 
 general for the United States, by whom we were re- 
 ceived with marked attention, and who invited us to 
 make a visit at his residence. 
 
CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 GOVERlS^MElSrT AND CASTE IN INDIA. 
 
 In the sacred volume which contains the earliest of 
 our historical records, no statement is made whence we 
 might conclude that the Jews, the first inhabitants of 
 the world, had arrived at any knowledge of India. The 
 river Euphrates, and the territory immediately beyond 
 it, appeared to them the most remote objects to the east- 
 ward, and are described as the end of the earth. Nothing 
 satisfectory is known either of the region or the people 
 before Alexander the Great entered the country with 
 his army, which was a little more than three hundred 
 years before the Christian era. 
 
 At that early age of the world's history, Alexander, 
 having formed a resolution to explore the East, em- 
 ployed the Phoenicians, and other maritime people be- 
 longing to his army, to construct a fleet of more than 
 two thousand vessels, in which he put part of his army, 
 and encamped on the shore with the remainder until all 
 were in readiness for dejjarture. At length this great 
 armament began its movement down the river ; the noise 
 and shouting of the troops, and the brandishing of so 
 many oars, as the flotilla dropped down the stream, 
 struck with admiration the many spectators who lined 
 the shore, and who were eagerly watching their prog- 
 
GOVERNMENT AND CASTE IN INDIA. 197 
 
 ress. Some time was spent on their voyage, and in at- 
 tacking certain strong places, by whicli Alexander rasbly 
 sacrificed many of his troops, and even endangered his 
 own life, for the pleasure of making conquests wbich he 
 had not the power to retain. After a voyage of nine 
 months, as it is stated, down the river, he landed at 
 Pattala. On his approach the inhabitants fled, and al- 
 lowed him to take possession of theii* capital without 
 resistance. As they went farther down the river, the 
 stream divided into two spacious channels, in entering 
 one of which they were much alarmed when the water 
 suddenly receded and left a large part of their ships on 
 dry land ; but, the next day, the channel again filled 
 with water and the vessels floated off without receiving 
 any damage, which alternation was occasioned by the 
 tide, of which they had no knowledge. In a few months 
 after, Alexander crossed the Persian Gulf, where he found 
 a friendly people and a fertile country, in which all the 
 wants of the fleet were supplied, and, in the following 
 year, that part of the fleet which had not been lost along 
 the rocky coast arrived in India, and penetrated the 
 country as far as the Ganges. 
 
 The discovery of the passage to India around the Cape 
 of Good Hope was made six years after the discovery of 
 America by Columbus, and opened the whole of India 
 to the commerce of Europe. In the year 1600 a com- 
 mercial company was chartered in England, under the 
 name of the East India Company, with almost unlimited 
 privileges and power, which continued to increase and 
 extend its limits until it had brought the greater part 
 
198 AROUND TEE WORLD. 
 
 of India under its sway ; but at length, in 1858, the year 
 after the great Sepoy mutiny, the company was com- 
 pelled by the Government of Great Britain to relinquish 
 all its possessions in India. 
 
 The Hindoos claim for their country and nation an 
 antiquity of four or five million years, and that things 
 have been going on much after the same fashion from 
 the beginning; that in the early days of their race 
 men grew to the height of from fifteen to twenty feet, 
 and lived a thousand or more years. 
 
 The empire of India, as previously mentioned, in- 
 cludes a number of provinces and presidencies, such as 
 Bengal, Bombay, Madras, etc., extending over a territory 
 of a million and a half square miles, and contains a popu- 
 lation of two hundred million people; it is now admin- 
 istered by a governor-general or viceroy, who has under 
 him, in the several provinces, governors, lieutenant-gov- 
 ernors, and commissioners. All the great native rulers 
 were dethroned, and their territory taken, in the con- 
 quests made by British arms. 
 
 For a period of two hundred and fifty years India 
 was ruled for the benefit of the East India Company. 
 This was a commercial enterprise, undertaken for the 
 purpose of making money, and gold and precious stones 
 were the objects sought, while the welfare of the people 
 was among the last matters to be considered ; even the 
 claims of religion, humanity, and justice, were too often 
 treated with neglect. But things have taken a wonder- 
 ful change since that great monopoly has been abolished. 
 India is now ruled, not for the sake of extorting money 
 
GOVERNMENT AND CASTE IN INDIA. 199 
 
 from a subjugated race, but for the welfare of the people ; 
 and instead of the cause of religion being retarded as 
 hitherto, it is now encouraged and propagated in every 
 possible way by all good English subjects. 
 
 The aspect of the country, in its material, educa- 
 tional, social, and religious interests, is at present full of 
 promise. There are yet reforms to be worked out which 
 will require time for their consummation; but, judging 
 from the movements now inaugurated, India bids fair to 
 become a mighty empire in the East. The viceroyalty 
 is the highest office in the gift of the British crown, and, 
 considering the extent of its sway, and the population 
 over which it is exercised, it is the most important dele- 
 gated office in the world. The power is not so absolute 
 as was that of the governors-general in the palmy days 
 of the East India Company, but the present viceroy is 
 directly responsible to the home Government. He is 
 paid a salary of twenty-five thousand pounds — equal to 
 one hundred'and twenty-five thousand dollars — annually, 
 and is allowed nearly as much more for incidental ex- 
 penses. He has, as before remarked, an extensive palace 
 in Calcutta, where he resides during the winter, and an- 
 other in the Himalaya Mountains, where he spends the 
 summer. 
 
 All official salaries in India are generally large ; and 
 the immense army of office-holders employed in all the 
 departments of government — the revenues for their pay- 
 ment being drawn directly from the country itself — 
 makes it of vast importance to Great Britain, for it is a 
 source from which a large number of the higher and 
 
200 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 middle classes obtcain tlieir support. Some officials, who 
 receive the highest salaries, have the promise of pensions 
 after their terms of service expire. Nearly every ship 
 returning to England carries home servants of the Gov- 
 ernment, and as many more are constantly coming out. 
 At the end of seven years, as a rule, officers, both high 
 and low, have a furlough of one year on full pay, with 
 the expenses of tlieir voyage homeward paid; this rule 
 not only includes the army, but also the banks and other 
 corporations. 
 
 There is associated with the viceroy an Executive 
 Council, whose members may be regarded as secretaries 
 or ministers in charsre of the bureaus of Foreio-n Affairs, 
 Finance, War, Judiciary, Post-Office, Board of Public 
 Works and Education. This Executive Council, like a 
 cabinet council elsewhere, waits on the viceroy daily or 
 weekly as he requires. Its members are residents in 
 India, and they are appointed by the viceroy with the con- 
 sent of the crown. With the consent of the Executive 
 Council the viceroy appoints all magisterial and minis- 
 terial officers. All this confers upon the viceroy almost 
 absolute power over the government of India. There is 
 also a Legislative Council, which consists of the same ex- 
 ecutive councilors, with the addition of a few residents of 
 India selected by the viceroy, with the approval of the 
 crown, to represent the general interests of the country. 
 In each of these councils the viceroy presides. He can 
 veto any measure passed, but not without rendering his 
 reasons to the crown. This Legislative Council makes 
 general laws and levies taxes. A majority in each 
 
GOVERNMENT AND CASTE IN INDIA. 201 
 
 Council are British, but a few prominent natives of 
 India, distinguislied for rank, property, or merit, are 
 added to each. The Executive Council sits with closed 
 doors, but the Legislative Council debates in public, 
 and its proceedings are reported as fully as those of our 
 own Congress of the United States. Thus it will be 
 seen that the Government of British India differs from 
 that of the United States, chiefly in its denial of the 
 elective franchise. All its appointments are derived, 
 directly, or indirectly from the crown of England. 
 
 But the Government of India, as described, is not 
 established in all parts of the conquered territory. There 
 are several districts, some very large ones, which still re- 
 main under the government of native hereditary princes. 
 All these provinces, however, acknowledge the supremacy 
 of the British Government, and submit to its interven- 
 tion in the local administration by way of advice or 
 protest. Some of them feel quite independent. Other 
 native princes are more subservient, and consent to have 
 their revenues collected by the Calcutta Government, 
 and even applied by it to the welfare and improvement 
 of the districts. Some admit judicial interference, and 
 others exclude it. Some still maintain armies, and others 
 have surrendered that power. Hence it is apparent that 
 a large part of India is in a transitory state, and much 
 remains to be done to consolidate the several interests 
 of the Government. 
 
 The European population of India, including the 
 British Islands, is short of two hundred thousand, who 
 are chiefly engaged in the public, military, and civil 
 
 14 
 
202 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 service, although in the principal cities there is a large 
 mercantile population. And it seems wonderful that 
 such a small number should be capable of governing 
 over two hundred million people. There are very few 
 Europeans in India that were born there, and scarcely 
 one whose parents were natives of the country. There 
 is a class of children born in the country, of European 
 fathers and native mothers, numbering over fifty thou- 
 sand, called East Indians, who are commonly acquainted 
 with both the foreign and native languages; many of 
 this class have had special advantages of education, and 
 occupy positions as clerks or agents of the Government ; 
 they are almost as dark as the natives, and are easily 
 distinguished by their European features; they are not 
 reputed to possess as much enterprise of character as 
 foreigners. 
 
 The great objection by the natives to the schools 
 and colleges in India is, that they have a tendency to 
 oppose their religious form of idolatry, which they con- 
 sider quite as sacred as we do Christianity. But, doubt- 
 less, the results of the work of education and the teach- 
 ings of Christianity must aid greatly in the overthrow 
 of idolatry, and of other forms of false religion which 
 have so long prevailed in the land. The general attitude 
 of the Government toward the systems of idolatry has 
 undergone an entire change. The time was, and not 
 many years ago, when the East India Company derived 
 a large revenue from the native temples and places of 
 worship; when the English soldiers were compelled 
 to bow down and do reverence before the heathen gods. 
 
GOVERNMENT AND CASTE IN INDIA. 203 
 
 for the sake of securing tlie favor or avoiding the hos- 
 tility of the natives. At length a long indictment was 
 found, and recorded against the former rulers of the 
 land by the home Government; and they were con- 
 victed not only of wickedness but of folly, when, in 
 the great mutiny of 1857, the very men whose favor 
 they had courted became their most deadly enemies. 
 
 The greatest social difficulty of the Government con- 
 sists in contendino; ag;ainst the ancient laws and customs 
 of caste. A touching incident, which may be regarded 
 as showing the protest of human nature against the laws 
 of caste, is told of a young native woman, which occurred 
 a few years ago. She was indicted for the murder of her 
 child, whose father was of a lower caste than her own, 
 and Avith which intermarriaore was forbidden. She con- 
 fessed that she killed the infant, rather than lose her 
 caste. The jury, half native and half foreign, pro- 
 nounced her not guilty, notwithstanding her confession. 
 Therefore the rules of caste are unbroken even by crime. 
 A man may commit murder, adultery, theft, or perjury, 
 and even be convicted of such crimes without losing 
 caste ; but if he violates any of the ceremonial laws, 
 even by eating with a European, or with a Mohammedan 
 of India, or with any one not belonging to his class, he 
 would be degraded. It is said that a Brahman was 
 once forced by a European to eat a small particle of 
 meat. Althouo^h his offense was involuntarv, he had to 
 do three years' penance, and pay a ransom of one liun- 
 dred thousand rupees, to be restored to his caste ! If 
 one violates the rules of caste, he or she is driven from 
 
204 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 tome ; and any friend who should give shelter would 
 be denounce I as an outcast. Neither parents, nor wife, 
 nor children, would be allowed to hold intercourse with 
 such a man. 
 
 This is the penalty that every Hindoo incurs who 
 becomes a Christian, and caste thus proves one of the 
 most serious obstacles to the progress of the Christian 
 religion. It is a severe test, but just such a test as was 
 indicated by the promise of the Saviour : " Every one 
 that hath forsaken houses, or brethren, or sisters, or 
 father, or mother, or wife, or children, or lands, for my 
 name's sake, -shall receive an hundred-fold, and shall in- 
 herit everlasting life." 
 
 There are certain features of national character which 
 not only discriminate one people from another in distant 
 parts of the globe, but also the same people from their 
 immediate neighbors. The outlines of the Hindoo re- 
 ligious system have already been traced, and we have 
 now to consider their political arrangements and the 
 peculiar castes and classes into which they are divided. 
 
 The Hindoos appear to have been always ruled by 
 despotic governments; and for many ages their subjec- 
 tion to a foreign race, differing in religion, manners, and 
 lano-uao-e from those of their own, has been humiliating ; 
 even the native princes who had attained a certain de- 
 gree of power have been degraded, and certain privileges 
 wrested from them. 
 
 A township or village is formed by a community 
 of the same caste, occupying a certain extent of land, 
 the boundaries of which are carefully defined. Some- 
 
GOVERNMENT AND CASTE IN INDIA. 205 
 
 times it is cultivated in common by the united labor 
 of the inhabitants, but more commonly each ploughs 
 his separate field. Some part of the land is assigned, 
 to those who have charge of important public services. 
 They have over them one w^ho acts as judge and magis- 
 trate, and treats with judges of similar communities. 
 Whatever change the supreme authority in the emj)ire 
 may undergo, or into whatever hands it may pass by 
 inheritance, usurpation, or force of arms, whether its 
 rulers be native or foreign, the j^eculiar constitution 
 of each township remains unaltered ; no revolutions 
 affect it, no conquest changes it ; even when invasion 
 has compelled its members to leave their native seats, 
 and spend years in exile, upon the first dawn of tran- 
 quillity, they hasten back, and if possible resume their 
 ancient inheritance. 
 
 The next grand feature, and one now peculiar to 
 India, consists in the division of the people into castes; 
 it is an institution which has long eftected a separation 
 among certain orders of society as complete as if they 
 had belonged to diiferent sj^ecies. Although its pov/er 
 has been shaken by the inroads of the English, it still 
 continues to exist. The four principal castes consist of 
 the Brahmans, Kshatriyas, Vaisyas, and the Sudras. It 
 is through religion, or rather a slavish superstition, that 
 these distinctions are sanctioned. The sacred books 
 claimed by the Brahmans as having been issued in the 
 moment of creation from the mouth of Brahma repre- 
 sent Kshatriyas from liis arms, Vaisyas from his thigh, 
 and Sudras from his feet ; accordingly, while the first 
 
206 • AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 enjoys a rank almost equal to divinity, the latter are 
 denied the rights of common humanity. Their sacred 
 books are filled with relations of the miraculous powers 
 of the Brahmans, millions of years ago, in drying up the 
 sea, vomiting fire on their enemies, and subduing the 
 great nations of the earth. Brahmans are first in rank 
 of society. In the great festivals, when the opulent 
 occasionally make a display of their wealth, the most 
 honored of them are loaded with presents ; at entertain- 
 ments given by those in high places, it is said to amount 
 to many thousand rupees ; lands and cattle are also 
 given at their feasts by the pious. So far, indeed, do 
 they rank above every other class, that the daughter 
 of the poorest Brahman is taught to consider a king as 
 no equal match for her. 
 
 The Kshatriyas, or military class, are second in dignity. 
 During the era of Hindoo independence, not only gen- 
 erals, but even kings, were chosen from this body, al- 
 though, since the subjection of India by foreign powers, 
 they have suffered a very severe depression. The only 
 powerful body of this class now remaining are those 
 under the name of Rajpoots, who occupy the wild tract 
 of country bordering on the western desert of India. 
 
 The Vaisyas rank third, and belong more to the in- 
 dustrial part of the community, but their functions are 
 not very distinctly explained. By some they are said to 
 be traders, and by others shepherds and cultivators of 
 the soil. 
 
 The Sudras stand lowest in the scale of castes, and 
 suffer a degree of degradation greater than befalls any 
 
GOVERNMENT AND CASTE IN INDIA. 207 
 
 otlier class of people not actually bondsmen. They are 
 not only doomed to serve and toil, but, as far as possible, 
 are debarred from improving tlieii* circumstances. Even 
 the attempt of a Sudra to accumulate property is declared 
 to be unhnvful, and gives pain to the Brahmans. Their 
 spiritual prospects are equally looked down upon, and 
 they are not permitted in public, or openly, to perform 
 a single religious ceremony. Their occupation is princi- 
 pally agricultural, and some exercise the various trades 
 and handicrafts. Their employment is invariably trans- 
 mitted by hereditary descent from father to son, and 
 they never attempt to vary their method, or make any 
 improvements on the models derived from their ancestors. 
 To taste the food of another caste, or to hold communica- 
 tion with persons of an inferior caste, constitutes the 
 chief of their deadly sins. If one should swallow a mor- 
 sel of beef, it converts at once the most revered Brah- 
 man into a despised and miserable outcast, and he at 
 once loses his caste. The loss of caste to them is the 
 loss of the whole world ; henceforth the offender can see 
 no more the face of father, mother, brother, or sister, or 
 even his wife or children ; they will fly from his pres- 
 ence as from one infected with some deadly distemper. 
 Those who violate the laws of caste often commit sui- 
 cide, or take refuge in the caves of the mountains, or 
 some remote place where they can never see a friend. 
 
CHAPTEE XIX. 
 
 CUSTOMS AND MAKNEES OF THE NATIVES. 
 
 The Hindoos appear to be imbued with a tliorougli 
 selfisliness, viewing the mass of foreigners only as in- 
 struments to promote their own interest and that of 
 their immediate connections. Yet tliey are courteous 
 and polite, and in meeting with foreigners they inva- 
 riably make a graceful bow, by raising the right hand 
 to the forehead, often with a cheerful smile upon the 
 face. If this mode of politeness should indicate any de- 
 gree of sympathy, then they are misrepresented by those 
 who dwell amouo; them. 
 
 Nowhere in India is woman elevated to her true 
 position, as the equal or companion of man ; she is ex- 
 cluded from the ordinary social intercourse of every- 
 day life. Among the poorer classes she is often made 
 a mere beast of burden, or water-drawer; by none is 
 she deemed worthy of education. The common females 
 exhibit their fondness for jewelry by the display of a 
 profusion of ornaments: they wear rings in their ears 
 and in their noses, necklaces trimmed with jewels, 
 bracelets around their arms and ankles, and rings on 
 their toes and hno^ers. The rino-s worn in the nose are 
 put through the side of the nostril, and I have seen 
 some of them from two to three inches in diameter. 
 
CUSTOMS AND MANNERS OF TEE NATIVES. 209 
 
 The different races and religions, to some extent, may 
 be distinguished by their dress. The Hindoos button 
 the vest on the right side, and the Mohammedans on 
 the left, and the numerous sects often wear different 
 colors and cut of costume. The garments worn by the 
 Hindoos of to-day are probably of the same cut and 
 fashion as those worn centuries before the Christian era. 
 The dress of the men usually consists of two j)ieces of 
 wide cotton cloth, one of which is wrapped around the 
 waist, and the other thrown loosely over the shoulder; 
 a shawl, formed in the shape of a turban, upon the head, 
 and sandals upon the feet, complete the costume. The 
 women have a single piece of cloth, either silk or cotton, 
 plain or colored, several yards in length, which is partly 
 tied around the waist, forming a kind of garment tliat 
 reaches to the feet ; the rest is then passed around the 
 body and over the head, falling down the back, which 
 gives them rather a graceful appearance. Some of the 
 native men wear loose trousers, as wide as ladies' skirts 
 at the bottom, looj^ed around the ankles. The wealthier 
 classes among the natives, both Mohammedan and Hin- 
 doo, indulge freely in dress, Avearing the richest silks and 
 finest muslins, trimmed with gold and silver lace, and 
 their hair adorned with rich ornaments. Both rich and 
 poor are very fond of jewelry, and by those who can 
 afford it there is no limit to their decoration, excejit the 
 extent of their means. 
 
 It is said that the Hindoos are not the original pos- 
 sessors of the soil. When they came into the countiy, 
 some thousands of years ago, they found it already occu- 
 
210 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 pied by a people wlio Lad strayed over there not long 
 after tlie dispersion. The descendants of these tribes, 
 who were driven back by the Hindoos, some twenty-five 
 or thirty centuries ago, may still be found in some of the 
 remote parts of India, but their numbers are so few that 
 the Hindoo may be regarded as the native race. 
 
 It is said that a certain class of the Hindoo people, in 
 the mountains and upper provinces, club together and 
 carry on a regular system of plunder, which is deeply 
 rooted in their habits. They are not like European rob- 
 bers, bold desperadoes who set at defiance the order and 
 laws of society, for they are recognized and sanctioned 
 by certain laws in the ancient codes, dividing the spoil 
 between themselves and the state. Even under the Brit- 
 ish Government, which denounces such a state of things 
 with heavy penalties, it is still carried on to a great ex- 
 tent. They calculate on their dexterity for eluding de- 
 tection, and some of them often live in the midst of 
 villages, where their practices are well known to the 
 people, but which scarcely render them any the less 
 respected by their neighbors. They go in large bands, 
 under the lead of a chief, and do not commit depreda- 
 tions on their immediate neighbors, or within the terri- 
 tory of their own village. As they pass through the 
 country towns they compel to foll9w them all who can 
 render any service, threatening instant death in case of 
 refusal. The timid inhabitants on their ai:)proach are 
 struck with terror, and seldom attempt resistance, but 
 at once surrender such effects as the marauders may 
 require. At their departure the outlaws utter fearful 
 
CUSTOMS AND MANNERS OF THE NATIVES. 211 
 
 oaths against sucli as may take any steps to discover or 
 bring them to justice. The terror inspired by such 
 threats, the difficulty of bringing evidence before the 
 English courts, and the facility of retreat into the thick 
 jungles by which many of the provinces are surrounded^ 
 enable them Ions; to baffle the efforts of the Government 
 officers in their arrest. 
 
 The Hindoos are generally active and industrious, 
 eagerly bent on the accumulatiou of wealth, and though 
 wages are low, and the laboring classes extremely poor, 
 yet capital yields high profits ; therefore many of those 
 who have been fortunate in their money-lending, or mer- 
 cantile pursuits, have attained very great wealth, very 
 little of which is expended in the daily enjoyments of 
 life. Those in the country villages live in low mud 
 houses, eating and living on the bare ground floor, hav- 
 ing neither tables nor other furniture. Their dwellings 
 in the large cities are more expensively constructed, but 
 the same custom of living is to a great extent practised 
 both by the rich and poor alike. 
 
CHAPTER XX. 
 
 PEODUCTS OF INDIA. 
 
 The rents in India exceed a third of tlie gross prod- 
 uce of the land, hence a farm can only yield a very 
 small income. The implements of agriculture are of the 
 most imperfect form ; the name of plough can scarcely 
 be applied to the instrument used for breaking the soil, 
 for it has neither coulter nor mould-board, the handle has 
 but little power in guiding it, and the share does not 
 penetrate the soil beyond three inches. The harrow is 
 in the shape of a ladder, on which the driver stands to 
 guide the team, and, instead of having teeth, rough, 
 bushes are attached to assist in coverino; the seeds. The 
 hoe and shovel are of the same simj^le character. The 
 rotation of crops is a principle unknown in India ; every- 
 thing possible is drawn from the ground until it is com- 
 pletely exhausted, when it must be recruited by being 
 left fallow some time ; manure is scai'cely used at all. 
 In some parts of India the soil is very fertile, and con- 
 tinues to bear fair crops without intermission. The 
 farmers in India spend much time in irrigation, without 
 which the land becomes languid and will die for the 
 want of water. This system requires more labor than 
 working the land itself, for water has to be apj^lied every 
 day during the dry season, which commonly continues 
 
PRODUCTS OF INDIA. 213 
 
 for more than one-half of the year. In addition to the 
 supply of water furnished by the great rivers, princes 
 and wealthy individuals liave built immense tanks and 
 pools, or reservoirs, for public use. Every farmer also 
 has wells — some of great depth — on his premises. Hun- 
 dreds and thousands ot people may be seen all over the 
 face of the country drawing water ; much is drawn by 
 hand-labor, but the larger farmers draw by bullocks, 
 with a wooden framework over the well ; in the top is a 
 pulley-block, through which a rope is rove ; at one end 
 is attached a large leatliern bucket, at the other the bul- 
 locks, and as the water is raised it is emptied into a 
 wooden trough, through wliicli it is conveyed over the 
 fields, in a similar manner to that practised in China. 
 
 Rice in India is tlie principal staff of life, being used 
 to a greater extent than any other grain. It is the food 
 of the highest and the lowest, and is the principal har- 
 vest of all Asia. Its production requires more water 
 than any other grain, and the crop is wholly dependent 
 on irrigation. The rice-ground in India is prepared in 
 April, and the seed is sown in May and harvested in 
 August. 
 
 Cotton is raised to a considerable extent in India ; it 
 used to be inferior to that grown in America, and w^as 
 less valued by the English dealers, but in later years it 
 has been greatly improved by a change of seed, and now 
 compares favorably with that raised in our Southern 
 States. 
 
 Silk is another valuable article in the India trade. 
 It is produced largely in Bengal, and not so much in 
 
214 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 tlie upper i^roviuces. Silk was originally confined to 
 the East, but since its introduction into Europe it has 
 been so much improved that the French and Italian 
 silk is now decidedly superior to the Indian and Chinese. 
 The silk-manufacture in India is of great antiquity, and 
 is carried on to considerable perfection without the aid 
 of machinery. The loom requires two j^ersons to work 
 it, and probably is now the same as that in use many 
 thousand years ago. The shawls of Cashmere, made 
 from the wool of goats, are all woven by hand, and give 
 employment to many thousand people. 
 
 Sugar is extensively raised and consumed in India. 
 The cane, however, is said to be inferior in strength to 
 that of the West Indies, and the product is principally 
 made into molasses. It is claimed by many intelligent 
 persons that, if European skill, capital, and machinery, 
 were applied to the production of sugar, India could 
 easily supj^ly the whole British Empire. 
 
 Tobacco was not originally raised in India, but, as 
 soon as the Europeans had found it in America, it was 
 introduced into the East. The soil is well adapted for 
 its growth, and, as it is now raised in nearly every part 
 of the empire, a considerable amount is being exported 
 to Europe. 
 
 Indigo is extensively grown ; in a commercial point 
 of view it has taken the lead of almost every other com- 
 modity, and commands a ready sale, both in Europe and 
 America. Although, as the name implies, it is strictly an 
 Indian plant, since the country came into the posses- 
 sion of the English, its culture has been greatly extended. 
 
PRODUCTS OF IXDIA. 215 
 
 Opium is anotlier great product of India, and liad 
 long been raised in the country before it came under 
 British rule. In 1773 tlie East India Company, becom- 
 ing aware of its great pecuniary value, assumed the 
 monopoly of its growth. It has ever since been raised 
 under the direction and for the benefit of the Govern- 
 ment. It is cultivated largely in the southern prov- 
 inces, in the districts bordering on the Ganges. It is the 
 juice taken from the seed-vessels of the common white 
 poppy, extracted before the seeds are fully ripe. There 
 are few prettier sights than the poppy-fields present 
 when in full bloom. 
 
 Pepper is also an important object of Hindoo agri- 
 culture. This valuable spice, for which there is such 
 a general demand, is raised amid the wooded hills of 
 Malabar, shaded by dense forests. It also grows on 
 many of the East Indian islands, but the Malabar pepper 
 is considered the best. It is exported in the two states, 
 black and white, a distinction which arises from the 
 different modes in which the seeds have been prepared. 
 
 India has been celebrated not onl}^ for the rich 
 products of her soil, but her manufactures have also 
 enjoyed a high reputation from the earliest antiquity, 
 all by hand-labor. The country contains a vast number 
 of inhabitants who are wretchedly poor, and a few who 
 are immensely rich. On the one hand, the great mass 
 of the people live in abject poverty upon the coarsest 
 food, while some of the rich subsist upon the finest lux- 
 uries and products of the land. 
 
 India is also prominent in the great mines of wealth, 
 
216 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 gold, silver, and precious stones, and no expense is 
 spared in obtaining the rich treasure for her princes 
 and great men of the country, which they so highly 
 prize and hoard up. These mines in former years are 
 said to have employed many thousand men to work 
 them ; also ingenious mechanics in gold and silver, for 
 cutting, polishing, and setting precious stones : and now, 
 as perhaps centuries ago, the ground is the workman's 
 bench ; his hands and feet the vise, and his tools only 
 rude pieces of iron with sharp edges; he carries on his 
 trade in a slovenly manner, waiting till he is sent for 
 by a customer, when he picks up his little set of imj^le- 
 ments and fire-dish, and hastily walks off to do the 
 work. 
 
 India has always produced commodities of great 
 value and beauty, but the demand has much diminished, 
 in consequence of the inability to cope with the im- 
 proved machinery of Europe and the United States. 
 Cashmere shawls, w^hich are worked by hand-labor, are 
 still exported in large quantities ; and many other 
 articles, manufactured without the aid of steam-ma- 
 chinery, are sent abroad ; but calicoes, muslins, and 
 silks, are mostly consumed in the country. The Euro- 
 pean returns for India goods have been limited; the 
 Orientals, generally speaking, have shown very little 
 taste for the productions of the West, and require that 
 their commodities should be paid for in gold and silver, 
 which has a tendency to retard the trade and commerce 
 of any country. 
 
 By not having a rainfall in the usual way, as in 
 
PRODUCTS OF IN LI A. ^ 217 
 
 Europe and America, the agriculturist in India is placed 
 at a disadvantage. Rain only falls in certain districts 
 in a sj^ecific time, or occurs at certain periods, called tlie 
 rainy season, and in general there is but one rainy sea- 
 son during the year, commencing in June and continuing 
 till October, Avhicli is during the southwest monsoons;' 
 little or no rain falling in the other months. In the 
 peninsula of India, however, there are in some places 
 two rainy seasons : one during the southwest monsoon 
 on the west side, the other in the time of the northeast 
 monsoon on the east side of the country. It is said that 
 the quantity of rain which sometimes falls in a short 
 time is very great ; that the roads become like rivei'S, 
 and the fields like lakes; but this only happens at long- 
 intervals ; generally speaking, it falls gently, even in the 
 absence of clouds, with bright sunshine. These heavy 
 showers are generally accompanied with terrific thunder 
 and lio;htninof. For some hours lio-htninsi: is seen almost 
 without intermission ; sometimes it onlv illuminates the 
 sky, and shows the clouds near the horizon ; at others it 
 lights up the distant hills, and again leaves all in dark- 
 ness, when in an instant it reappears in vivid flashes. 
 During all this time thunder never ceases to roar, and 
 is only silenced by some nearer sound which echoes 
 through the ear with such a sudden and tremendous 
 crash as can scarcely fail to strike the insensible heart 
 with fear and reverence for Him who holds the elements 
 within his grasp, and the world at his control. 
 
 15 
 
CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 * CALCUTTA TO BENARES. 
 
 January loth. — We have been traveling for nearly 
 five months, and have reached a point more than fourteen 
 thousand miles westward all the way, to find the East. I 
 was told at home that Japan, China, and India, were all 
 in the East, and we still go on westward, turning neither 
 to the south nor north, and I should like to know how 
 much farther we have to go before we find ourselves in 
 the East. We have now com])leted about one-half of 
 our tour around the globe. But more perplexing than 
 all other philosophy is that composed of geography and 
 astronomy, which j)laces the United States of America 
 right under our feet, and, worst of all, tells us that New 
 York, our good old town, is turned topsy-turvy ! It re- 
 quires a great power of specific gravity to realize this 
 philosophy; and, more bothering still, although I am 
 quite sure that I sit and stand right-end upward, with 
 giound below, and sky above, as I gaze from the hotel 
 veranda, the people in the streets of Calcutta and the 
 ships on the Hoogly River aie the same. I am told, 
 from the standpoint at home, that the people in India, 
 and the ships upon the sea, with their passengers, are 
 all wrong-end upward, the keels of ships pointing tow- 
 ard New York, with their masts the contrary way. To 
 
CALCUTTA TO BENARES. 219 
 
 solve this problem, I wisli that some one could only 
 send me a telegram tlirougli, either below or above. If 
 these things are so, there is something more in going 
 around the ^^'orld than appears on the surface. 
 
 Every intelligent person knows that it is by the 
 mighty power of steam applied to locomotion, by land 
 and sea, tliat we are enabled to comjjlete a belt of 
 traveling around the globe in a comparatively short pe- 
 riod to what we could a few years ago, when we had to 
 traverse the sea by sailing-ships, and the land by coaches. 
 
 I recall to memory some twenty-five years ago when 
 the srold excitement broke out in California. Little 
 did I then dream that it would evei- be my privilege 
 to cross over the Western prairies and see the Indian 
 tribes, and other features of pictorial mountain scenery. 
 Far distant was the thought, when I was a boy, study- 
 ing geography of the world in a country school, that it 
 would ever be my lot to cross the Kocky Mountains by 
 rail at an elevation of eight thousand feet, and scale the 
 Sierra Nevada ran^re at an altitude of over seven thou- 
 sand feet; and the remotest of my thoughts could not 
 comprehend that it would ever be my privilege to make 
 the tour around the world in so short a period of time. 
 
 This evening we leave Calcutta by the half-past ten 
 o'clock train for Delhi, distance nine hundred and ninety- 
 six miles, fare eighty-eight rupees. It was a beautiful 
 moonlio-ht evenino\ The terminus of the East India 
 Kailway is situated directly opposite Calcutta, across the 
 Hoogly. Here we presented ourselves for a journey of 
 twenty-four hours. A telegram from uj) the road has 
 
220 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 been received tliat a train of cars ran off the track last 
 niglit, killing and wounding a large number of j^assen- 
 gers, wbicli to liear was not congenial to our feelings. 
 The Indian sleeping-cars are a modification of the Amer- 
 ican system, and, although they do not in India furni-h 
 bedding and attendance, there is no extra charge made 
 for the carriage, and it was cheaper to buy bedquilts and 
 pillows than to pay three dollars a night, as in America^ 
 for the accommodation ; and the bedding is also required 
 in the liotels, where it is only customary to provide a 
 bedstead, a mattress, one sheet, and perhaps one hard 
 pillow. On leaving the depot at Calcutta we made our 
 beds in the best possible manner, and should have en- 
 joyed a comfortable night's repose, but the train stop- 
 ping at short intervals all through the night, taking in 
 and putting off passengers, very much broke our rest. 
 
 January KStli. — This morning early we arrive at 
 Newadi, two hundred and twenty-nine miles from Cal- 
 cutta. The day is bright and pleasant, but warm. This 
 little town is pleasantly situated at the foot of the hills j 
 here an additional eno;iue is attached to the train to 
 assist i:i pulling up the steep incline, through a deep cut 
 in the road. The country in the vicinity is under a good 
 state of cultivation, and the poppy-fields are numerous. 
 At nine o'clock we arrive at a small town called ]\Iauan- 
 pur, stopping long enough to breakfast. 
 
 The greater part of the plain of India is destitute of 
 heavy forests, and I may say the greater part of the con- 
 tinent of Asia, except on the neighboring islands near 
 the equator, where they are very dense, although a large 
 
CALCUTTA TO BENARES. 221 
 
 part of Hindostaii is in jungle, whicli is a brusliwood 
 from ten to twelve feet in lieiglit, thickly covering the 
 ground. 
 
 At two o'clock we stop at Pakowr and take dinner. 
 This station was one of the tirst places plundered and 
 destroyed by the rebels during the insurrection of 1857. 
 The bungalows of the railway-officers were destroyed by 
 fire. The Ranis palace was sacked, and the native town 
 overrun by eight thousand insurgents, armed w^ith bows 
 and arrows, and battle-axes ; many of the inhabitants 
 were barbarously murdered, others fled to the jungle for 
 their lives, and it was a lono; time before the town was 
 reclaimed. Shortly after leavins; Pakowr we came to 
 Rajmahab, situated on the right bank of the Ganges, a 
 town of considerable note, and at the station (called 
 Talijeria) is an interesting missionary establishment 
 which was founded by the Rev. W. Puxley. 
 
 Sultanganja is the next station, and is of some repute. 
 It was here — when tlie railroad company was making 
 excavations for extension — that a curious Bnddhist 
 image, made of copper, ten feet high, was dug out of a 
 mound. The country is covered with Buddhist temples, 
 many of them going to decay. Shortly after leaving the 
 village we pass through a tunnel, nine hundred feet 
 in length, the only one upon the road. The country 
 through which we ride, so far as we can see, is composed 
 of a plain, dotted with towns and hamlets, and in the 
 distance we obtain an occasional view of the mountains, 
 ivliich makes the ride one of interest. 
 
 The train stops nearly an hour in the city of Patana, 
 
222 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 beautifully situated on tlae banks of the Ganges, and 
 containing a large native population. The streets are 
 narrow, and the houses densely crowded together. The 
 rooms are still shown where the massacre of the Euro- 
 peans took place. The victims are buried in the town, 
 and a monument is erected over them. 
 
 At six o'clock in the evening we arrive at Mogul 
 Serai, where we make a change on a branch-road six 
 miles in leno;tli leadins; to the Gano;es, where we found 
 carriages in readiness to convey the passengers across 
 the river, over a bridge made of boats joined together, 
 and on reaching the opposite side of the stream we had 
 about three miles to ride to reach Sekrole, or the canton- 
 ment, the place where all the European population are 
 located. On our arrival in the holy city we put up at 
 Clark's Hotel, which is the best kept in the place. We 
 were furnished with a good suite of rooms, including a 
 bath, at ten rupees a day for us two. Mr. Clark is an 
 Englishman, of a high-toned character. He has been in 
 the country for the last twenty-five years, and married 
 a native lady of education and accomplishments, who 
 speaks several languages. There was no })lace in the 
 town where we could have been more highly entertained* 
 or procured more information, than at Mr. Clark's hott L 
 
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CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 BENARES. 
 
 Tjie city of Benares is beautifully situated ou the 
 left bank of tlie Gano;es, and contains two hundred and 
 fifty thousand inhabitants. It is of great antiquit}', and 
 is conceded to be the home of Hindooism, Her temples 
 number over a thousand, exclusive of the numerous 
 smaller shrines occupied by idols, which meet the eye in 
 every direction. The number of idols worshiped in this 
 city by the people is reputed to be not less than half a 
 million ! The city extends from two to three miles along 
 the bank of the river, surmountino- an elevation of about 
 eighty feet above the water's surface. Above the river, 
 on the side of the embankment, rise some noble build- 
 ings, many of tliem four and five stories high, all con- 
 structed of stone. Owing to the rise, and consequent 
 swift current, of the river at certain seasons of the year, 
 some of their foundations have sunk for several feet, thus 
 partially destroying their beauty. Many of these build- 
 ings are the palaces of wealthy Indian princes. A row 
 of palaces, temples, and ghauts, extends along the river- 
 front for over a mile. 
 
 Dr. Sherriug, of the London Missionary Society at 
 
 ' Benares, said that the early history of this sacred city 
 
 of the Hindoos is involved in much obscurity; that it is 
 
224 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 doubtless of great antiquity, aud may even date back 
 from tlie time when tbe Aryan race iirst s|)read itself over 
 Northern India. Wlien it was first built, and by what 
 prince or patriarch, is altogether unknown. While many 
 cities aud nations have fallen into decay and perished, 
 her sun has never gone down. As a queen, she has ever 
 received the willing homage of her subjects, scattered 
 over all India; and, as a lover, she has secured their 
 affection and resrard. 
 
 And now, after the lapse of so many years. Dr. Sher- 
 ring said that the city still maintains most of the fresh- 
 ness and all the beauty of her early youth. No eight in 
 the world probably can surpass that of Benares, as seen 
 in the distance from the river-side. He also speaks of 
 her as a city which in wealth, dignity, and sanctity, is 
 auiono; the foremost in all Asia. 
 
 January lltJi. — This being the Sabbath, we attend 
 the Episcopal church, situated in the English part of the 
 city. There \vere present about one hundred Europeans 
 and ten natives. 
 
 January ISt/t. — This morning, after an early break- 
 fast, we procure a guide and carriages, and ride to the 
 Ganges. On the way we pass the Durga Kund Temple, 
 which is a lofty and graceful building of pyramidal form, 
 the lines being broken by numerous turrets, or clusters 
 of turrets, the whole being covered with elaborate carv- 
 ino;, and with carved ficfures of sacred animals. It is 
 located in a small inclosure, surrounded Ijy an open 
 colonnade. It stands upon twelve elaborately - carved 
 pillars, and is sui'mounted l)y a dome, with a cupola at 
 
BEX A RES. 225 
 
 €acli corner, and a bell is suspended from the centre of 
 the dome. This temple is held very sacred in Hindoo 
 •estimation, and crowds of ^vorshipers were gathered 
 around it to j)ay their devotions and strew their offer- 
 ings on the shrine of the goddess. 
 
 But this temple is better known by Europeans by 
 the name of the Monkey Temple, for there are hundreds 
 of monkeys — all living deities — which crowd not only 
 the buildino; but the immediate Deio:hborhood, tlius otv- 
 iiig it its name. Fine, fat, well-fed fellows they are, of 
 a rich orange color ; from the venerable patriarch to the 
 l)abe in the mother's arms, they are seen climbing grace- 
 fully from the turret to the pinnacle, grinning and chat- 
 tering in fear or in anger, occasional!}^ leaping to the 
 ground to scramble for a few handfuls of parched corn 
 thrown to them by the devotees. Dangerous neighbors 
 they must be in such a crowded neighborhood; but the 
 Hindoos venerate the ape, and their sacred character pro- 
 tects them from all molestation. 
 
 On leaving the Monkey Temple we are driven to 
 the river-bank of the Gano;es, and conducted throucrh 
 some of the principal palaces. Ascending a flat roof, 
 several charts are seen of the heavens, engraved on stone, 
 and some of the instruments formerly used in astronomi- 
 cal observations, a few of which are of gigantic size, but 
 are fast falling to decay. The mural quadrant, for taking 
 the sun's altitude, consists of a wall eleven feet hio^h and 
 nine feet thick; here is another instrument for ascertain- 
 ing the declination and distance from the meridian of 
 any planet or stai-, occupying a space thirty-six feet in 
 
226 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 length by five in brenflth ; and the remains of other ap- 
 pliances of a similar character are seen here. They were 
 doubtless constructed over a thousand years ago. 
 
 On the bank of the river, connected with one temple,, 
 is a large well, some twenty feet in depth. The stencli 
 of the water was as bad as that from a common sewer^ 
 occasioned by tlie devotees throwing in their offerings, 
 consistino; of small bunches of flowers and strains of 
 rice ; and yet, as fast as it could l^e dipped up with 
 buckets, the miserable creatures drank it as holy water. 
 Here we saw 1)ull- worship, peacock-worship, and other 
 modes of worship too obscene for description, and every 
 morning the place is thronged with devotees. 
 
 We enter a boat and sail along the river-front, where 
 we witnessed the washing and head-shaving of dead 
 bodies, and their transference to the funeral-piles. For 
 a lono; distance down the banks of the river were varied 
 crowds of bathers, monster idols, ghauts, and funerah 
 pyres — these vast crowds all seeking salvation from the 
 waters of the Gano;es. 
 
 We progress slowly along with our boat till we 
 come to the large mosque with its two lofty minarets 
 towering up to a great height. Here we discharge our 
 boat, and return to the carriage through the busy crowd 
 by land. Where this mosque is situated the river-bank 
 is at least eighty feet high from the water's edge. We 
 ascend to the roof by upward of a hundred ste|)s, worn 
 into deep hollows by the feet of the multitude who are 
 continually passing up and down. From here we ob- 
 tained a magnificent view of the city and surrounding 
 
BENARES. 22 T 
 
 country, and the Ganges winding its silver-like thread 
 throuo'h tlie valle\ till lost in the distance. We ad- 
 mired the minarets for their simplicity and boldness ; 
 they have an altitude of one hundred and forty-seven 
 feet. 
 
 Passino; throus-h the crowd we next arrive at the 
 temple of Shiva, commonly known as the Golden Tem- 
 ple. This is tlie reigning deity of Benares, and receives 
 more adoration than any other idol, and yet there is noth- 
 ing very elaborate about it, situated in a narrow and the 
 most crowded street in the city ; the throng was really 
 so dense, we thought that it would be impossible to 
 enter. It is erected back from the street in the centre 
 of a little inclosure, consisting of three small rooms, 
 raised on a stone platform, and crowned with three 
 domes, two of which are said to be overlaid with gold, 
 from which it derived its name l)y the Europeans as the 
 Golden Temple. In each room there is a large holy 
 stone, and the worship consists in throwing rice, flowers, 
 and money, upon these stones. There is an inner temjile 
 in which only the priests are allowed to enter; within 
 the inclosure adjacent to the temple is what is called the 
 Well of Knowledge, into which flowers and grains of 
 rice are thrown as ofl:eriugs to the gods, and the water is 
 drawn and drunk by the numerous devotees. This well 
 is surrounded by a handsome colonnade of forty pillars. 
 Immediately to the east of the well is the stone figure of 
 a large bull, about seven feet high, dedicated to one of 
 their principal gods. 
 
 The entire surroundings are rich in temples of elabo- 
 
228 AROUXD THE WORLD. 
 
 rate workmanship, among which the most worthy of no- 
 tice is one to Anpurana, a goddess who is supposed to 
 save from huno-er; hence it is always thronged l^v beo-- 
 gars. Here is also one dedicated to the sun, one to the 
 planet Saturn, and, I think, there is another to the moon. 
 Not far from these temples is a famous well called Kal 
 Kup, or the Well of Fate. Over the framework cover- 
 ing the well is a square hole, so arranged in relation to 
 the sun that at twelve o'clock its rays, passing through 
 the hole, strike upon the water below, indicating mid- 
 day, and at this hour it is crowded by those wishing to 
 search into the secrets of the future. 
 
 In returning to the hotel we pass by the Queen's Col- 
 lege, where some three hundred and fifty native youths 
 are instructed in principles quite the opposite to those 
 inculcated in the idolatrous scenes just before witnessed. 
 It is a fine building, in the Gothic style, containing large 
 rooms, a liljrary stored with a rare collection of Oriental 
 manuscripts, and an Indian museum. The grounds of 
 the college are very extensive, and heautifully laid out. 
 
 January Vdth. — This afternoon we are accompanied 
 by an experienced guide and ride out into the country, 
 some four or five miles distant, to Sarnath. The im- 
 mense ruins of Sarnath are of great interest. Here are 
 two towers, distant about twenty-five hundred feet from 
 each other. The Hindoos have a tradition that a man, 
 by the name of Lorik, was accustomed to jump in a 
 single leap from tower to tower ; he is rej^uted to have 
 resided in the vicinity of these towers, and was the 
 owner of a laro;e number of milch-cows, and after he 
 
BENARES. 229 
 
 milked tlie cows in the morning, with the milk in hand, 
 he gave one leap from the top, jumping from one tower 
 to the other withont spilling the milk. Both of the 
 tovv^ers are in ruins, and only enough is left to testify to 
 their great mao;nitu(le. The first tower which we ap- 
 proached was constructed on a high mound ; according 
 to a recent survey made, it is one hundred and twenty- 
 eight feet above the general level of the country, and is 
 constructed entirely of brickwork. The second is also 
 of brick, faced with elaborately - cut stone, and with 
 images in some of the niches : the faces are more or less 
 richly decorated with a profusion of flowering foliage, 
 the south face being altogether plain. 
 
 The remains of these laroe Buddhist establishments 
 cover some ten or twelve acres, and the parts of the 
 towers remaininc: would have been torn down Ions; ao;o, 
 but the brick and mortar are so firmlv combined that 
 they are like one perfect mass of stone, and the only way 
 by which the great iron bolts and rods are taken out by 
 the poor class of people is with chisel and hammer. 
 
 In the early ages this town was the cradle of Buddh- 
 ism. Buddha, according to tradition, was a prince; he 
 renounced royal state, wealth, family, fiiends, everything, 
 and repaired to Sarnath ; here he remained in seclusion 
 for Ave years, during which time the study of his profes- 
 sion continued, and it resulted in his conviction that he 
 had become perfectly purified. Here his teachings began 
 nearly twenty -four hundred years ago ; and, according 
 to the faith of his disciples, his gospel has spread all over 
 the East, and it is to continue to radiate until it shall 
 
230 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 pervade the entire eartli. According to statistics, the 
 numerons sects of the religious world comprise nine hun- 
 dred million believers, of which the Buddhists claim 
 three hundred and fifteen million. But, according to the 
 teachings of the Bible, we know that the gospel of Christ, 
 the King of glory, the divine ruler of both heaven and 
 earth, shall spread from the rivers to the uttermost ends 
 of the earth, till all, from the leaf.t to the greatest, shall 
 know him. 
 
 Dr. Sherring states that the Hindoos are good gram- 
 marians but meagre historians, and the}' possess no sin- 
 gle record, among the ten thousand separate manuscript 
 works of which their ancient literature is said to be com- 
 posed, on the historical correctness of which one can 
 place mucli reliance. Their stories are so intermingled 
 with different events— the web of the one is so inti- 
 mately interwoven with the woof of the other, and the 
 two mixed up as a whole — that the finest microscopic 
 intellects of Europe, after patient and long-continued ex- 
 amination, have been baffled in the attempt to discover 
 which is fiction and which is fact. They have also more 
 ways of spelling the same words than any other people 
 I have ever known. 
 
 January ''20th. — This morning, as usual, we ride out 
 to the Ganges. On our approaching the sacred river we 
 saw thousands of j^eople, some going to, others returning 
 from, the bath in the waters. Here we saw a tank on 
 the river-bank, about thirty-five feet square, and ten feet 
 deep ; it has stone steps leading to the water below, sur- 
 rounded by Brahmans, both men and women, making 
 
BENARES. 231 
 
 oftei'ings, wliich consisted of crumbs of bread, rice, small 
 bunches of flowers, and leaves. The stench arising from 
 the tank was almost unendurable, and yet they bathed 
 in and even drank of this water, believing that it will 
 purify them and wash away every sin that they are 
 guilty of According to tradition, in ancient times many 
 devotees sacrificed themselves in this tank, and, before 
 doing so, they solicited from their idols the promise that 
 they should, in the next life, have a residence in some 
 rich man's house of high caste ! 
 
 In sailing along the river-front, we saw great num- 
 bers of Hindoos, men and women, bathing in the Ganges, 
 and others upon the banks performing their religious 
 ceremonies, hoping thus to wash a^vay their sins; some 
 were worshiping the river itself; others upon their knees, 
 with closed eyes gazing toward the sun, praying to it, 
 were so much absorbed in their devotions as apparently 
 to be unconscious of the presence of those around them. 
 Every now and then we saw smoke arising on the river's 
 edge, caused by the burning of the Hindoo dead; we 
 passed pile after pile, some burning and others making 
 ready for the cremation. 
 
 The burning of dead bodies is the most loathsome 
 sight ever witnessed. The funeral-pile is first prepared 
 by setting four stakes in the ground, about two feet 
 apart and four feet high, and the wood, consisting of 
 about a cart-load, is piled between the stakes two feet in 
 height; then the corpse is laid upon the pile, covered 
 over with sandal- wood shavings, and afterward the rest 
 of the wood is placed on, to the height of the stakes. 
 
232 AROUND THE WOBLD. 
 
 At leiigtli, when all is in readiness, tlie family of the 
 deceased, headed by the priest, marches in procession 
 seven times around the funeral-pile, toi-ches in hand ; on 
 the last round the priest lights up the pile, and his fol- 
 lowers also apply their torches in turn. In a few 
 moments the sacred pile is in a complete blaze^ and 
 continues to burn until the whole mass is reduced to 
 ashes, when the dust is carefully collected by the mourn- 
 ers and thrown into the Gauges. After this ceremony 
 the priest is not allowed to touch any human being for 
 the space of fourteen days, lest lie should be defiled. It 
 is considered a great crime unless the fire to light up 
 the funeral-pile is taken from the house of some Sudras, 
 the lowest and most despised caste in India — a casre 
 which, if one of its members should be touched, contami- 
 nates the party touching him, who thus forfeits his caste, 
 and becomes a vagabond upon the face of the earth. 
 The Sudras caste, knowing that the Bralmians dare not 
 burn their dead without fire from their dwellings, often 
 charge the rich enormous sums. Shortly before our 
 visit, a Hindoo prince had given one thousand rupees 
 for fire to burn the remains of some distinguished friend. 
 Up to within a few years, it was the custom of the Hin- 
 doos to burn the widow or wife of the deceased husband 
 alive with him upon the same funeral-pile; but, since 
 the English came into power, they have interposed and 
 put a stoj) to this inliuman practice. 
 
 There is a dance practised by the Brahmans, both in 
 Japan and India, called the devil-dance, of which the 
 priest is at the head, having his forehead smeared with 
 
BENARES. 233 
 
 ashes and streaks of red paint over liis face ; he wears 
 a high Avhite cap, with red tassels, and a long white rohe 
 reaching to his feet. In his right hand he holds a spear 
 ornamented with bells, that jingle harshly every time 
 the ground is struck by it. As the band of tomtoms 
 strike up, the Brahman priest makes his appearance from 
 behind the curtain upon the stage, when the devotees 
 show him the offerings they intend to present, but he 
 appears wholly unconscious ; then the tomtoms are 
 beaten faster and louder, when he exclaims in a loud 
 voice, " I am god, the only true god ! " Then the de- 
 luded devotees crowd around the priest and offer obla- 
 tions, soliciting answers to their questions as to the 
 future. During the performance, which continues for 
 an hour or more, the priest cuts and hacks himself with 
 a sharp instrument until completely covered with blood. 
 When all is over he casts off his bloody garments, picks 
 up the sacrifices, and walks off quietly to the fountain 
 of water to wash the donors' sins away. The* caste of 
 Brahman s believe that this mode of worship will drive 
 away malignant spirits, and inform them of future events. 
 There are many other peculiar modes of worship 
 practised by the Brahmans in their temples, such as 
 beating on drums and blowing of horns, to call the gods 
 out. Some have a cylinder filled with something which, 
 when turned, makes a loud noise ; when the gods an- 
 swer, they join in singing and clapping of hands. There 
 is one temple where a man stands to guard the door, and 
 to put a fan into the hands of those who were desirous 
 of making offerings to the idol, of which fanning is one ; 
 
 16 
 
234 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 a second man rings a ))ell to awake.i the idol, and a 
 third man i)laces the sacrificial dishes before the idol 
 and deals out the food; a fourth holds up a looking- 
 glass to the idol, while the fifth beats a drum or blows 
 a horn for its amusement ; the sixth acts the part of 
 treasurer, and the seventh washes and cleans the dishes 
 used in the temple. In some temj)les there are those 
 who prepare the idol's bed, and present a toothpick 
 after it is supposed to have taken its meals. Such is 
 the idolatrous and foolish superstition of the deluded 
 Brahmans. 
 
 Here is a temple called Bhaironath, protected by a 
 large idol in the shape of a dog. The confectioners near 
 the temple keep a good stock of images of the dog made 
 of sugar, which are offered to the idol. A Brahman is 
 stationed here whose duty it is to protect persons from 
 the wicked influences of evil spirits ; this is done by a 
 peacock's feather, which he waves over them. A stran- 
 ger, seeing it, is under the impression that the Brahman 
 is employed to drive away flies, which are said to fill the 
 temple during the hot season, being attracted by the 
 small sugar images. On entering this temple, a Brah- 
 man is seen standing at the door, holding in his hand a 
 cup made out of cocoanut-shell, in which he expects all 
 visitors to drop their offerings. 
 
 Sankata Devi is a temple which is visited principally 
 by barren women, and their one prayer is that the god- 
 dess will bestow on them the gift of children. There is 
 a story to the effect that one poor woman, after offering 
 flowers, began beating her head on the floor, and with 
 
BENARES. 235 
 
 tears was supplicating the goddess to grant her a child, 
 saying: " I have wealth, so that I can feed daily a thou- 
 sand people, but I am still unhappy and most miserable, 
 and have no one to leave my wealth to. Is it your wish 
 when I die that it shall be left to strangers? Oh, give 
 me only one child, and I will be your slave for life ! 
 Even a daughter will be preferable to none at all ! If 
 you will but grant my request, I vow to feed daily one 
 hundred Brahmans in this temple for one year ! " 
 
 I have only enumerated a few of the most prominent 
 temples in the city of Benares ; to speak of them all 
 would require months of examination, and fill volumes 
 in description. Shiiues and temples are here more nu- 
 merous than in any other city in the world. 
 
 The Buddhist priests live principally in and around 
 their temples, and are seldom seen in the streets. They 
 are readily known by their large yellow garments, which 
 they wear wrapped around the body, by being bare- 
 footed, and with the h:ur shaved close to the head. 
 They restrain their feelings from all attachment to the 
 fair sex, and no woman dare venture to approach a 
 priest unless to perform some religious duty, or to pre- 
 sent some pious offering. According to our informants, 
 the principle of religious homage among the Buddhists 
 is that God, or his substitute, is in a temple, whom they 
 worship through idols, believing that idols shall stand 
 between God and man. Instead of calling u23on God 
 dii'ectly, they supplicate the idols, through which they 
 claim to receive answers to prayer. Their opposition 
 to the destruction of animal life, theft, lying, adultery, 
 
236 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 and drinking ardent spirits, is a good qnalification ; and 
 if tliey only looked to God, instead of worshipping 
 their idols, they would be as devout a race as any on 
 the earth. 
 
 During our stay in Benares, every day regularly some 
 three or four Brahmans assembled in front of the hotel, 
 exhibiting snakes of the most deadly character. They 
 would coil them round their necks, and even carry them 
 in their bosoms. The reptiles were trained in such a 
 manner that they would make a leap ; by speaking to 
 them they would raise or put down their heads, and the 
 Brahmans could charm the snakes in any way they seem- 
 ingly wished. 
 
 From actual statistics it has been estimated that in 
 all India there are from twenty to thirty thousand deaths 
 from poisonous serpents every year ! Snakes live and 
 multiply not only in the jungles and open country, but 
 in villages and cities. They often make their homes in 
 the thatch of dwellings, and drop down from the rafters 
 and lurk about the kitchen-utensils ; and sometimes are 
 found in the parlors, and secrete themselves in the beds. 
 I listened to many thrilling narratives of adventures with 
 these unwelcome visitors. I had heard of these danger- 
 ous reptiles before entering India ; so, on retiring for the 
 nio-ht, I usually made a diligent search through the bed- 
 chamber, and overhauled the sheets upon the bedstead^ 
 in order to guard against the presence of some hidden 
 reptile. Among the most dangerous and deadly is the 
 hooded cobra, which often attains the length of ten feet 
 or more. In the south of India snakes have often been 
 
BENARES. 237 
 
 captured from fifteen to twenty feet in length. A gen- 
 tleman traveling;: with us in the cars said that last sum- 
 mer he captured a cobra of large size in his bed, as lie 
 was about to retire for the nio-ht. 
 
 During tlie winter months the snakes of India remain 
 in holes, and only come out during the wet weather of 
 the summer months, and are considered to be the greatest 
 of all plagues that have ever been in the country. 
 
 We visited tlie Maliarajali Palace, belonging to a dis- 
 tinguished Indian prince, wlio keeps three hundred ser- 
 vants and as many horses, and nine elephants. The 
 prince was not at home, but his house is always open to 
 European and American tourists ; so the servants showed 
 us through the numerous apartments, which were ele- 
 gantly furnished, and the walls covered with valuable 
 ancient paintings. 
 
 We also visited the private residence of Baboo Go- 
 kool, who gave us a cordial welcome. z\inong other 
 things, he said that he was most hap2:)y to meet people 
 from the far West. He had read our country's history 
 in his youth, and lielieved us to be a great people. Be- 
 fore leavino^, he showed us throuo-h a room filled mth 
 curious things — weapons of war, and a large variety of 
 gold, silver, and copper coins, which were in use some 
 two or three thousand years ago, and precious stones 
 which he had collected from time to time in different 
 parts of India. He saw that we admire<i the stones, and, 
 opening the case, requested each of our party to select 
 one of our choice. We offere;! to pay, by presenting 
 money, which he refused to take, saying that he was 
 
238 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 only too liappy to give. It is said that the rajaLs of 
 India are very benevolent, and particnlarly so to those 
 whom they fancy. 
 
 We also visited one of the principal warehouses, 
 where were manufactured and kept for sale the most 
 costly and elegant brocade fabrics in the w^orld. They 
 are worn by the native j^rinces, baboos, and rajahs; 
 they are formed of silk and the purest of gold, woven 
 in patterns five yards long and one yard wide. A pat- 
 tern never costs less than three hundred dollars, and 
 thence upward to six or seven hundred. The merchants 
 took several pieces out of the cases for our inspection, 
 at the same time requesting us to register our names as 
 purchasers, but there is very little of this costly fabric 
 sold to tourists. The merchants in the East are amiable 
 and everywhere polite. 
 
 We saw a first-class wedding pass through the city, 
 marching in procession, which reached a long distance, 
 and was accompanied by two bands of music. The' pro- 
 cession consisted of horses exquisitely decorated with 
 scarlet blankets trimmed with gold and silver lace, and 
 a profusion of colored ribbons, led by men dressed in 
 rich uniforms. The groom rode in the rear upon horse- 
 back, covered with a rich canopy, bordered by a crimson 
 veil trimmed with gold fringe. After the display they 
 marched to the bride's residence. 
 
 According to the custom of the country, betrothals 
 are made by a class of persons outside of the families, 
 who are supposed to be well acquainted with the caste 
 and circumstances of the parties, without the knowledge 
 
BEXARES. 239 
 
 of tlie yoniig man and woman who are tc) V)e join(d to- 
 gether for life. This is done when the parties are mere 
 infants, 1>y the pai-ents entering into -a contract that their 
 chiklren shall be married iij^on attaining a certain age. 
 After this has been done, it is impossible to break the 
 engagement, unless one or both of them should die. 
 From the time of the engagement till the marriage, the 
 intended bride is required to maintain the strictest seclu- 
 sion. Whenever friends call upon her parents, she is 
 expected to retire ; she must be closely veiled when 
 ofoino; into the streets, and she is debarred from all social 
 intercourse *with those of her sex with w^hom she for- 
 merly associated. 
 
 The office of match-maker is considered honorable, 
 and both men and women are employed to conduct nup- 
 tial negotiations, great confidence being reposed in their 
 judgment. By some castes the selection and contracts 
 are made by the parents, and in all cases the boy and 
 o;irl have no voice in the en2:a2i:ement to be made. The 
 presents given at the betrothal are said to be very valu- 
 able, consisting of silks, rice, cloth, fruits, and sometimes 
 money. 
 
 Here, as in other countries, there is a great contrast 
 between a wedding and a funeral. While the Hindoos 
 burn the dead body, their next-door neighbors, the Chi- 
 nese, bury the dead. We saw a Chinese funeral proces- 
 sion pass through the streets of Penang. The corpse was 
 borne upon long poles, resting upon the shoulders of 
 twenty-six men. The coffin is constructed of thick 
 plank, perfectly tight and strong, which is laid upon a 
 
240 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 shelf iu some temple for several years. Those who are 
 rich have a great part of their wealth, or treasure, put 
 in the coffin with the body, and watched by a guard 
 both night and day till the years of probation have ex- 
 pired. At length the coffin is removed to the family 
 field, and covered over with a large mound of earth re- 
 semblins: a hus^e hav-stack. 
 
CHAPTEE XXIII. 
 
 LUCKTv^OW AKD CAWNPORE. 
 
 January ^Ofh. — This afternoon at two o'clock we 
 leave Benares, the lioly city of the Hindoos, en route for 
 Delhi, we having at Calcutta paid for a through-ticket 
 to that city, with the j)rivilege of stopping on the road 
 wherever we desired, not to exceed sixty days from the 
 date of issue. We pass through endless fields of rice, 
 wheat, and millet, orchards of bananas, tamarinds, and 
 mangoes, the latter tree just now in bloom, filling the 
 ^ir with a perfume sweet as that of the acacia. In other 
 fields are large herds of cattle, flocks of sheep, and goats. 
 Occasionally we passed by groups of slender men and 
 children upon the roadside. The few women w^hom w'e 
 saw were gayly attired, with a profusion of silver orna- 
 ments, ear-rings, nose-rings, and anklets. The surround- 
 ings were so very pleasant that we regretted when night- 
 fall came u^dou us. 
 
 January 21.s/. — This morning at five o'clock we ar- 
 rive in the city of Lucknow, and put up at the Imperial 
 Hotel, board five rupees a day, and have good entertain^ 
 ment. Lucknow is beautifully situated on the banks of 
 the river Goomtee, which is spanned by an iron bridge. 
 Previous to the Sepoy mutiny, Lucknow was a purely 
 
242 AROUXD THE WORLD. 
 
 Oriental city of great extent and picturesque appearance. 
 An intelligent writer, wlio visited Lucknow in 1856, 
 thus describes tlie view from the river: "The city, which 
 extends for several miles along the river-bank, seemed 
 one mass of majestic and beautiful buildings of dazzling 
 whiteness, crowned with domes of burnished gold, while 
 scores of minarets were looming up in every direction ; 
 the wdiole picture was like a dream of fairy-land ; but 
 during the mutiny the city was bombarded by the Eng- 
 lish troops and greatly injured, and the general features^ 
 of the city have been much altered." 
 
 The English settlement of Lucknow is very prettily 
 built. The buildings are of brick, covered with stucco, 
 giving them the appearance of white marble, with beau- 
 tiful gardens and macadamized roads. The city itself 
 contains about three hundred thousand inhabitants. We 
 made the best of our time by visiting some of the prin- 
 cipal places of interest in the city, some of which I will 
 briefly describe. 
 
 The Martiniere is a peculiarly fantastic building of 
 every species of architecture, adorned with stucco images, 
 huge lions with lamps instead of eyes, mandarins, and a 
 host of gods and goddesses. The interior contains some 
 handsome apartments, many of them with frescoed ceil- 
 ings. It was said to have been originally designed as a 
 palace for the nawab; he, however, died before it was 
 "finished, and left funds for its endowment as a school, 
 ordering his body to be buried under its floor; but, dur- 
 ing the rebellion, the mutineers opened his tomb and 
 scattered thq remains. 
 
LUCKNOW AND C AWN PORE. 243 
 
 We next proceed to the ruins of buildings destroyed 
 in the mutiny, these remaining nearly in the same state 
 they were when they were left ; and here for five months 
 a little band of Christians held out, with unexampled 
 courage and endurance, against hordes of well-armed, 
 well-]3iovisioned, and ferocious enemies. All the build- 
 ings are in a terribly shattered state, bearing numerous 
 marks of shot and shell, and every point has a sad story 
 connected with it. Here are shown the remains of a 
 portico, in the fall of which some twenty or more brave 
 soldiers were buried; here is shown another room under- 
 neath the ground, where the women and children took 
 refuge from the hail of shot. Not far from this spot is 
 the churchyard where those who perished during the 
 siege were buried ; here is the grave of Sir Henry Law- 
 rence, Major Banks, and many other English officers and 
 soldiers. The church was nearly leveled to the ground 
 durino; the siesce. 
 
 We hire a carriage and diive out some few miles into 
 the country, to the garden-house formerly belonging to 
 the King of Oude. In the garden was pointed out to 
 us the tomb of Sir Henry Havelock, a plain obelisk with 
 a long inscription. The country roads are level and 
 beautifully macadamized. 
 
 The King of Oude, whose possessions were the last 
 to be seized by the East India Company, reigned here 
 in great splendor. When the British authorities in- 
 formed him that they required his extensive and rich 
 dominions, and that he must lay down his sceptre and 
 his crown, the governor-general 23roposed to settle on 
 
244 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 him a large pension, but tlie king was reluctant to I'esign 
 his authority, and refused to sign any deed of convey- 
 ance. When compelled to retire, he sent his queen to 
 England to plead his cause before Queen Victoria ; but 
 before she returned the mutiny of 1857 broke out, and 
 the kino-'s fate was sealed. He now resides on the 
 Hoogly, some two or three miles below Calcutta. By 
 many this seizure of the territory of Oude, and the sale 
 of the personal property of the king, are regarded as the 
 immediate cause of the rebellion in which so much 
 property was destroyed and life sacrificed, not only in 
 Lucknow, but in numerous other places in India. Luck- 
 now is where the torch of rebellion was first lighted, 
 and shortly after its lurid glare was seen spreading like 
 wildfire over many parts of the peninsula. 
 
 tTanuary 22<'/. — This morning we resume our tour 
 by the ten-o'clock train ; at one o'clock we sto]) at Cawn- 
 pore, situated on the banks of the Ganges, uj^on a flat 
 and sandy plain. It is a large military station, and the 
 cantonments comprise an area of ten miles, with a pojiu- 
 lation of seventy-five thousand, exclusive of the military 
 and the European residents ; there is, besides, accom- 
 modation for seven thousand troops. This was the 
 scene of some of the most fearful atrocities of the 
 mutiny of 1857. CaAvn23ore has acquired a melancholy 
 interest in the eyes of every Englishman, if not the whole 
 civilized world, and many tourists stop to visit the 
 memorials which exist of those events. The sad story 
 is familiar to most readers. 
 
 Memorial Garden is a large spot of ground inclosed, 
 
LUCKNOW AND CAWNPORE. 245 
 
 neatly laid out, and beautifully kept. On a raised 
 mound is tlie memorial erected over the well in whicli 
 a large niunber of Christians, chiefly women and chil- 
 dren, were cast, by order of the rebel Nena Sahib, and 
 left to die. It consists of a raised circular stone plat- 
 form, on which is placed a statue of a female draped 
 figure with wings, surrounded by a Gothic stone screen 
 of beautiful design and workmau ship. At the foot of 
 the mound on either side are inclosures coutaining the 
 tombs of those who fell in the battles fouo-ht in and 
 around Cawnpore during the mutiny. No native is al- 
 lowed, on any pretext whatever, to enter this garden 
 without a permit from the authorities. 
 
 About a mile from the river is the intrenchment 
 in which General Wheeler, with his small band of 
 soldiers, and the Europeans and half-caste residents, 
 were assembled, and for twenty-one days held the city 
 in the face of a continual fire from Nena's troops. No 
 vestige of the intrenchment now remains, but the well 
 into which the women and children were thrown is still 
 to be seen. " 
 
 The chief events of the mutiny centred at Cawnpore. 
 This station was occupied by Sir Hugh Wheeler, with 
 a small body of English troops, who had under their 
 protection several hundred women and children, belong- 
 ing chiefly to the city and neighborhood. Having no 
 fortress, they intrenched themselves by throwing up 
 earthworks on the open | plain. There were two small 
 buildings in the place which they occupied, with a piece 
 of land less than an acre in size ; there were nine hun- 
 
246 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 dred persons in all within this narrow space. The 
 Sepoys opened upon them a murderous fire ; their pro- 
 visions were falling short ; famine stared them in the 
 face ; and, owing to the close confiDement and the heat 
 of the scorching sun, many of them were dying from 
 day to day, while some went raving mad. At length 
 the enemy began to pour red-hot shot within the en- 
 campment, which fired and burned their buildings. 
 During this fearful moment they received an offer from 
 the rebel leader, Nena Sahib, that if they would aban- 
 don the intrenchments and the treasure which they had 
 been guarding, the survivors should be furnished with 
 boats and an escort to take them down the Ganges to 
 Allahabad, where they would have safe quarters, and 
 be out of the reach of their foes. They declined this 
 offer until the rebel had signed the contract, and con- 
 firmed his promise with a solemn oath, which he did. 
 Finally, conveyances were provided for taking the sick 
 and wounded to the river, about a mile distant. They 
 were getting into the boats, when, by the order of Nena 
 Sahib, who betrayed his trust, a battery opened upon 
 them, by which a large number were killed, and a few 
 boats hastily rowed across the river, but they were after- 
 ward captured by the Sepoys, the men all killed, and 
 the women and children carried back to the camp to 
 die a more cruel death. They were for several weeks 
 incarcerated in a building scarcely large enough to con- 
 tain them, where they were most shamefully and brutally 
 treated by the Sepoy troops. A rumor having reached 
 the rebels that an English military force was on the 
 
LUCKNOW AND OAWNPORE. 247 
 
 march from Allahabad to rescue the captives, an order 
 was given at once that the women and children should 
 be slain, doubtless not an unwelcome order to those who 
 were suffering a thousand deaths. At sunset, on the 
 15th of July, 1857, volleys of shot were fired into the 
 doors and window^s of the building, until all were sup- 
 posed to be dead. The next morning it was found that 
 a number were still alive ; on Ijeing brought out in a 
 frantic state, they either threw themselves or were 
 thrown by the enemy into a large well, near the prison- 
 house. The number of women and children who perished 
 in this most brutal manner was nearly two hundred. 
 The English army, under General Havelock, entered 
 Cawnpore the day after this fearful massacre, driving 
 out the rebels before them ; and when they reached the 
 building in which the poor victims had been murdered, 
 covered with blood, locks of hair, and pieces of torn 
 garments, the soldiers were horrified, almost maddened, 
 by the fearful sight, and killed every rebel wdthin tlieir 
 reach. 
 
 At Futtehghur, a few miles farther up the Ganges, 
 General Wheeler and his men were intrenched. This 
 place has long been one of the chief stations of Ameri- 
 can mission-work ; all the mission-buildings were de- 
 stroyed by the rebels, the foreign residents either shot or 
 put to the sword, the English officers being the first to 
 suffer. The survivors, including four American mission- 
 ary families, attempted to escape in boats, hoping to 
 reach Allahabad. The Americans were Rev. Messrs. 
 Freeman, Campbell, Jobnson, and McMullen, witli their 
 
248 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 wives and children, together with others, amounting in 
 all to one hundred and thirty persons. While floating^ 
 down the Ganges with a swift current, they were con- 
 stantly in fear of the natives; twice they were fired on, 
 and a lady and child killed. On the fourth day out, the 
 boats ran aground upon a sand-bar. Not being able 
 to get them oif, the whole party went on shore and 
 concealed themselves in the jungles or long grass, in 
 constant fear of being captured by the enemy, and with 
 little hope of escaj)e. Here they engaged in prayer, 
 making preparation for death, the missionaries earnestly 
 exhorting them to put their trust in Him who would 
 bring salvation even in death. On the following day 
 they were discovered by a body of Sepoys, who made 
 them prisoners, and took them to Cawnpore. They 
 were tied together with ropes, and compelled to take up 
 their march on foot ; they being nearly exhausted with 
 long fasting and anxiety of mind, as night came on they 
 were allowed to lie down upon the ground, in the open 
 air, the Sepoys keeping guard over tliem to prevent 
 their escape. Early the next morning they were marched 
 into Cawnpore, before Nena Sahib, who instantly or- 
 dered them to be drawn up in line on the parade-ground, 
 where they were shot down. The record of these ter- 
 rible scenes was derived from four native Christians, 
 who were the only survivors. 
 
 On leaving Cawnpore we go to Agra, one hundred and 
 forty miles distant. On our arrival in this ancient city 
 at midnight, we are driven from hotel to hotel, all over- 
 filled ; finally, we succeed in getting into the Harrison 
 
^LUCENOW AND CAWNPORE. 949 
 
 Hotel, with the express understandiiig that we shall 
 vacate our rooms on the arrival of his royal highness the 
 Prince of Wales, for the rooms had all been engaged 
 ahead. Accordingly, we were very glad to agree to this 
 j)roposition. 
 17 
 
CHAPTER XXIV 
 
 AGRA. 
 
 January 2Sd. — The city of Agra is beautifully situ-- 
 ated on the banks of the Jumna, and was formerly a. 
 walled town, with sixteen gates ; portions of the walls, 
 and the ruins of five gates are still to be seen. Its cir- 
 cumference within the walls is estimated to be about 
 nine square miles. Agra was, until within the last few 
 years, the seat of the Government of the Northwestern 
 Provinces, which has since been transferred to Alla- 
 habad. The civil station and the English military can- 
 tonments occupy a large space of ground not far distant 
 from the ancient town. 
 
 The fortress is an immense structure, of irregular 
 form, a mile and a half in circumference, situated on the 
 river-front, and contains the j)alace. Its massive walls 
 on the side next to the river are sixty feet in height. 
 From the to23 we obtained a magnificent view of the 
 river, city, and country. The entire structure is sur- 
 rounded by numerous turrets, and a moat, thirty feet 
 wide, paved Avith stone. We entered by the north gate- 
 way, an imposing structure, flanked by two enormous 
 towers, continued inward by a range of buildings show- 
 ing a beautiful succession of alternate niches in the walls^ 
 and small arched openings covered with carvings and 
 
EXTERIOR OF THE FORT. 
 
 p. 250. 
 
AGHA. 251 
 
 mosaic- work. From tliis gate through wliicli we ride 
 into the inclosure, a paved-way ascent leads to the noble 
 court-yard, five hundred feet by three hundred and 
 seventy, surrounded by arcades. On the one side we 
 entered the judgment-seat of Akbar, a si)lendid liall, 
 one hundred and eighty feet long by sixty broad. It 
 is an open portico, the roof resting on three row^s of 
 pillars, with circular ceilings. The alcove is in the 
 centre of the hall, where Akbar sat to pronounce judg- 
 ment. This alcove is a pavilion of white marble, beau- 
 tifully carved in recesses, containing three sculptured 
 marl)le chairs inlaid with mosaics. A door back of the 
 throne leads to the private hall of audience. It consists 
 of an oblong room of w^hite marble most beautifully 
 carved, and inlaid with precious stones ; many of them, 
 however, have been taken out, either by the multitude 
 of visitors or the natives themselves. The adjoining 
 room is an immense court, two hundred and thirtv-five 
 feet by seventy, formerly the sitting-room for the ladies. 
 It is surrounded by a colonnade which they were deco- 
 rating with evergreens, flowers, lanterns, and flags, in 
 whicli to give a ball to the Prince of Wales on his 
 arrival in the city. 
 
 This magnificent fortification and palace combined 
 was built by the grandson of Akbar I. This emperor 
 gave a festival on its completion, which, according to 
 tradition, cost over a million dollars, and although he 
 expended hundreds of millions upon his army, he had 
 in his treasury when he died more than a hundred 
 million dollars of coined money, gold and silver, be- 
 
252 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 sides a large accuniulatioii of valuable jewels and pre- 
 cious stones. 
 
 Near tlie judgment-liall, just described, stands the 
 Pearl Mosque, a beautiful specimen of architecture of 
 the finest white marble, the interior exquisitely carved 
 and inlaid with precious stones, chaste and simple, but 
 beautiful beyond description. It can be comj^ared to no 
 other edifice that I have ever seen ; to the eye it is 
 absolutely perfect. An insciiption upon a marble slab 
 represents this mosque to have been constructed by 
 Shah Jehan in the year 1656. It occupies one side of 
 a court one hundred feet square, paved with white- 
 marl )le blocks, and surrounded by a beautiful marble 
 cloister elegantly carved in panels. 
 
 Among the wonders of the palace are curious under- 
 ground passages, where the ladies are said to have played 
 hid e-ancl -seek to amuse the emperor. One of these is 
 thought to communicate with the Taj Mahal, and also 
 an old house in ruins in the cantonment. At the end 
 of one of these passages is a deep well, said to have been 
 used to put the unfaithful ones in who were sentenced 
 to death. Two soldiers, some years ago, fell down this 
 well, and were either killed by the fall or starved to 
 death, as their bodies were not found until several days 
 afterward ; the authorities after this gave orders to have 
 the passage bricked up. 
 
 From the fort we drive to the Taj Mahal, about a 
 mile distant, over a good road. We enter first the outer 
 court, an oblong inclosure about four hundred and fifty 
 feet in depth, surrounded by arches, and having four 
 
AGRA. 253 
 
 gateways. The principal gateway led iis into the grand 
 inclosure, which is beautifully laid out with stately trees, 
 shrubs, flower-beds, and iish-ponds, and is kept in order 
 by the Government. The Taj Mahal is raised on a plat- 
 form of red sandstone, measuring nine hundred and sixty- 
 four feet by three hundred and twenty-nine, fronting on 
 the river. Two mosques occupied the court, one on the 
 east and the other on the west end ; like the tow^ers, 
 they are of red sandstone inlaid with white marble. 
 The plan of the Taj is an irregular octagon one hundred 
 and thirty feet in length and seventy in breadth, with 
 an immense high ceiling and marble floors. 
 
 The Taj Mahal was erected by the Emperor Shah 
 Jehan for his highly-esteemed queen, Mumtaz Mahal, as 
 a tomb, in which they now both sleep side by side. She 
 died before him, in giving birth to a child ; it is stated 
 that, as she felt her life ebbing away, she sent for the 
 emperor, and told him she only had two requests to 
 make : flrst, that he would not take another wife and 
 have children to contend with hers; and the second, 
 that he would build for her a handsome tomb, to j^er- 
 petuate her memory. The emperor, who was devotedly 
 attached to her, at once set about complying ^vith her 
 last request. The tomb was commenced immediately 
 after the queen's death, in the year 1630, upon which 
 twenty thousand workmen were employed for twenty- 
 two years in its erection, at a cost of fifteen million 
 dollars. The two tombs, which lie side by side, are 
 of the purest w^hite marble, exquisitely inlaid with 
 blood-stone, agate, carnelian, jasper, and other precious 
 
254 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 stones, and suiTounded by a white-marble screen, elalv 
 orately cut in open-work, interwoven with vines and 
 flowers of the most intricate ornamental designs and 
 workmanship, the finest that I have ever seen in any 
 part of the world, and is acknowledged by every trav- 
 
 THE TAJ MAHAL, FROM THE FOUNTAIN. 
 
 eler to be unrivaled, and the sigjlit of'this alone declared 
 by many to be worth a journey around the world. An 
 Englishman made the remark : "It is a sanctuary so 
 pure and stainless, revealing so exalted a spirit of Mo- 
 hammedan worship, that I feel humbled as a Christian 
 
AGRA. 255 
 
 in thanking God that our own religion has never in- 
 spired its architects to surpass this noble temple of 
 splendor and magnificence." 
 
 The two tombs, the monuments of display, are placed 
 in the grand hall above the ground-floor, which is a 
 lofty rotunda, lighted both from the dome above, and 
 below by screens of open marble wrought in vines, and 
 ornamented with a wainscoting of sculptured tablets 
 representing clusters of white lilies. The dome of the 
 Taj Mahal contains an echo more sweet and pure and 
 prolonged than that in the Baptistery of Pisa, which is 
 the finest in Europe, and doubtless this is the finest in 
 the world. A single musical note, uttered by the voice 
 sounds very loud, and floats overhead in a long tone 
 fading away so slowly, that we imagine we still hear 
 it when all is silence. The hall, notwithstanding the 
 precious materials of which it is built, and its elab- 
 orate finish, assumes a grave and solemn eftect. Some 
 tourists, on first entering this solemn chamber, have been 
 known to burst suddenly into tears, and it has the ten- 
 dency to thrill almost every person with emotions of 
 solemnity, if not to bring moisture to his eyes. 
 
 The Taj Mahal is surrounded by a beautiful park 
 about a quarter of a mile square, fronting on the river, 
 planted with choicest Oriental trees, shrubs, and flowers, 
 with several fountains scattered through the park, throw- 
 ing a profusion of jets into the air, which, as the sun 
 shone upon them, represented a shower of diamonds. 
 This park or garden is surrounded by a high wall, 
 and entered by a magnificent gateway, covered by a 
 
256 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 building from fifty to sixty feet in lieiglit, whicli is 
 admired by all for its architectural grandeur, and beauty 
 of the carving and mosaic ornamentation. We entered 
 beneath this majestic arched gateway on going to the 
 Taj Mahal. On the river-side of this garden rises a 
 terrace of red sandstone twenty feet in height, and a 
 thousand feet in length, the walls of hewn stone. At 
 the extreme left of this terrace stands a magnificent 
 mosque. It is the place of prayer for the faithful who 
 come to visit tlie tomb. 
 
 Here upon the lofty terrace of sandstone rises an 
 additional terrace of pure white marble of cut blocks 
 laid in courses, forming a building three hundred feet 
 square. At each of its four corners there stands a cir- 
 cular marble minaret about thirty feet in diameter, 
 gradually diminishing in size to the height of one hun- 
 dred and fifty feet, and crowned with an open cupola 
 commanding a magnificent view of the surrounding 
 country. In the centre of this marble terrace, or rather 
 in the building, is a fountain in which the Mohammedans 
 go to wash and purify themselves before entering the 
 sacred tombs of the Taj Mahal, which is an ancient cus- 
 tom connected with their religion. 
 
 Shah Jehan commenced to build a new palace for 
 himself on the opposite side of the river from the Taj 
 Mahal, intending to connect the two edifices by a bridge 
 spanning the stream, but the civil war shortly after 
 broke out, which led to his fall, and cut short the un- 
 dertaking. 
 
 To the northeast of the city, higher up the river, and 
 
AGRA. 257 
 
 on the opposite side of it, is situated what is called the 
 Garden of Rest, one of the oldest garden inclosures in 
 Agra, and which w^as the garden palace of Nur Afshan, 
 and is laid out somewhat in the same style as the Taj 
 Mahal gardens, with stone and marble pavilions, which, 
 it is said, are often occupied by picnic-parties coming 
 from a distance. 
 
 It is related that Abkar founded this city by build- 
 ing a splendid residence and capital out of his private 
 fortune, from what w^as then a complete waste : but he 
 did not long occupy it, as the people came pouring in on 
 account of its beautiful locality, and constructed many 
 costly residences. The saint found his devotions inter- 
 fered wdth by the bustle and crow-ding around him, but 
 before leaving for more secluded quarters he named the 
 city Agra. 
 
 January 24:th. — This morning ^ve were notified by 
 the proprietor of the hotel that his royal highness the 
 Prince of Wales was expected to arrive in the city some 
 time during the afternoon, and that our rooms, w^hich 
 w^ere taken on conditions, would be recj[uired ; but, if we 
 thought proper to remain over, he would furnish us rooms 
 in an old bungalow, in one corner of the garden, which 
 was covered with a thatched roof. As soon as I saw the 
 place it reminded me of the snakes of India falling from 
 the rafters, and I declined the invitation of our host to 
 remove into it. But, fortunately, we saw the eighty ele- 
 phants standing on the public square in readiness for 
 the royal tourist, covered with scarlet blankets, trimmed 
 with gold and silver lace, wdth gilded chairs upon their 
 
258 AROUXD THE WORLD. 
 
 backs, aud tlieir drivers dressed in rich uniform, and a 
 profusion of flags displayed from tlie fortress, tlie house- 
 tops, and all kinds of banners posted up along the streets 
 and roadside. 
 
 We leave by the half-past ten o'clock train en route for 
 Delhi. We ride fourteen miles to Tundla, and make a 
 change of cars upon the East India Railway. Some hills 
 which we cross are without irrioration — the soil looks as 
 dead as if it never had any life ; but, where the water 
 has reached the land by the system of irrigation, the 
 crops are in a flourishing condition. Deficient in indus- 
 try as in energy, the natives sit on the ground \\ hen they 
 use the sickle ; they have no modern agricultural im- 
 provements or machinery. The country generall}" bears 
 the same aspect as the plain of the Ganges. As we pass 
 along through the jungles, occasionally we see large herds 
 of deer, and great numbers of very large birds of dif- 
 ferent colors and sj)ecies, comparatively tame. As the 
 cars hummed along, they made but little effort to fly; 
 some of them, as they stood upon their feet, stretching 
 up their necks, appeared from three to four feet liigh. 
 The birds of India, on the whole, are admitted to be of 
 a class remarkable both for splendor of color and grace- 
 fulness of form. The reason of o:ame beins; so tame is 
 that the natives use no fire-arms, and, even if they did, 
 to take life would be a direct violation of tlieir relist- 
 ious teachings. 
 
 We arrived in the city of Delhi at six o'clock in the 
 afternoon, and were conveyed to the United Service Ho- 
 tel, which is decidedly the best hotel in the city. We 
 
AGRA. 259 
 
 were furnislied witli two large rooms and a batli for ten 
 rupees a day for us two. The house was kept by a Mo- 
 hammedan, who was very polite, and made every effort 
 to entertain us in the best possible manner. 
 
CHAPTEK XXV. 
 
 DELHI. 
 
 January 2btli. — The city of Delhi was built by Shall 
 Jehaii, about the middle of the seventeenth century. 
 Leaving Agra, which had been chiefly constructed by his 
 grandfather, the renowned Akbar, during a revolution 
 in the countrv, he fled to Delhi and laid the foundation 
 of this gorgeous capital. It is inclosed by a w^all of red 
 granite, five and a half miles in circuit, and is entered by 
 twelve strongly -fortified gates, the principal of which are 
 named the Calcutta, Cashmere, and Lahore Gates. 
 
 Before the present city was built, Delhi at different 
 periods occupied various sites within a circuit of twenty 
 miles or more, most of which space is now covered with 
 ruins. One monument, the loftiest single column in the 
 world, yet remains in a good state of preservation about 
 ten miles outside of the walled city, in the midst of 
 magnificent ruins of which there is no satisfactory ac- 
 count given in the records of India. Old Delhi, as it is 
 called, the last-forsaken site, is in a tolerably good state 
 of preservation. The walls remain, and much of the an- 
 cient city is standing, but its public halls are deserted. 
 Wherever the former kings built their fortified palaces, 
 there the nobles clustered around, and the surrounding 
 inhabitants also followed, both on account of trade, and 
 
DELHI. 261 
 
 tlie better protection aftorded against wandering and 
 barbarous tribes of robbers. 
 
 One principal street, called Cliandi Cliowk, one liun- 
 di'ed and twenty feet wide, divides tlie ancient town from 
 the modern. It is tlie principal boulevard of Delhi, 
 crowded with people from early morning until night, 
 and there is no sti-eet in India where there is more of an 
 Asiatic display made. Hundreds of camels and elephants 
 may be seen arriving and departing with heavy back- 
 loads of produce and merchandise. On either side of 
 this boulevard are shops and warehouses of the wealthy 
 merchants. The centre is a broad terrace or promenade, 
 shaded with acacias and other ornamental trees. This 
 promenade is thronged with people in all the varied cos- 
 tumes peculiar to different regions of Asia. Other parts 
 of the city are equally curious in their way. The peo- 
 ple, after sunset, assemble on the roofs of their dwellings 
 to enjoy the cool of the evening. 
 
 January 26f/i. — This morning early we engaged an 
 experienced guide, and, in company with a party of 
 ladies and gentlemen, started off upon a picnic-excursion 
 some eleven miles distant in the country, taking luncheon 
 Avith us. We 2:>rocured three large double teams, rode 
 as far as Kootub, where we left the gha?'ries, and took a 
 relay of bullocks and rode in ox-carts to Toogluckabad, 
 where luncheon was prepared for the party in what is 
 called a dak bungalow. This style of bungalow is to 
 be found on all the princi^^al roads in India, about one 
 day's journey distant from each other, for the accommo- 
 dation of pilgrims. They contain no furniture, excepting 
 
262 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 a pine table, a tin cup, a l)ucket, and a bedstead, and are 
 always open to the weary and tlio^e wlio are desirous of 
 stopping overniglit. The bullock-cart in the interior of 
 India is the principal conveyance. It is said that a good 
 pair of bullocks will travel in a day as far as an ordinary 
 span of horses. Our bullocks went on a fast trot, with- 
 out stopping, the entire distance. 
 
 Tooo-luckabad was once a laro-e citv, but is no^v 
 covered with a complete mass of ruins. The place 
 derived its name from Toogluck, a former prince, who 
 ruled over the people, and was the most furious tyrant 
 that ever reio;ned. The ruins of the old fortification are 
 most interesting. The fortress stood on a rocky emi- 
 nence, covering a very large space, and was built of 
 massive blocks of stone, so large and heavy that they 
 must have been quarried on the ground. The thick 
 walls are double, with a ditch between. The ranijiarts 
 are raised, w4th rooms arched over, which doubtless 
 formed the quarters of the troops that garrisoned the 
 fort. The walls slope inward, similar to those in the 
 Egyptian style of architecture, and are pierced with 
 loop-holes, which serve to give light and air. This fort 
 has thirteen gates, and there are three inner gates to the 
 citadel, which contains seven tanks of water. 
 
 January '2ltJi. — This forenoon ^ve ride out to the 
 palace and citadel, extending for a mile along the river- 
 front. It is a mile and a half in circuit, and is inclosed 
 on three sides by a wall of red stone forty feet high, 
 flanked with turrets and cupolas. It is entered by two 
 noble gateways. Entering by the Lahore Gate, we pass 
 
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DELHI. 263 
 
 under an arch, leadini>: to the coiirt-var(]. In front of 
 the entrance, at the distance of about one hundred paces, 
 is the Music Hall. Bevond and facino; this buildino; is 
 the Hall of Pnl^lic Audience. In the wall is a staircase 
 that leads up to the throne, raised about ten feet from 
 the ground-floor ; it is covered by a canoj)y supported 
 on four pillars of white marble, the whole being curi- 
 ously inlaid Avith mosaic-work ; behind the throne is a 
 doorway by which the emperor entered from his private 
 apartments. The whole of the wall behind the throne 
 is covered with mosaic paintings, in precious stones, of 
 some of the most beautiful flowers, of vines, fruits, birds,, 
 and beasts. 
 
 We next enter the hall of Dewan-i-Khas, in whicli 
 the emperor gave free audience to all who had any 
 petition or cause to present. It is a square marble 
 pavilion, with an elevated throne on one side, supported 
 by pillars of stone, the wall beautifully inlaid with mo- 
 saic flowers. One side of this hall opens on the court ; 
 the second side faces on the palace-gardens ; tlie third 
 side commands a fine view of the river Jumna, which, 
 flows near the palace-grounds; while the fourth rests 
 upon the walls of the zenana. On the side of the zenana, 
 which is now closed, stood the famous " Peacock Throne," 
 which, in the time of the Mogul dynasty, was the ad- 
 miration, if not the envy, of the world. This throne 
 was taken away in 1759 by Nadir Shah, the Persian 
 conqueror, by whom the gold that came off the canopy 
 was melted down, the value of which, together with, 
 the precious stones, was estimated at upward of ten 
 
264 AROUND THE WOULD. 
 
 million rupees. The Peacock Throne is thus described 
 by a writer who \vitnessed it : 
 
 " The throne was six feet lono; and four feet broad, 
 composed of solid gold, inlaid with precious gems. It 
 was surmounted by a gold can()j)y supported on twelve 
 pillars of the same material, and around the canoj)y hung 
 a fringe of pearls ; on each side of the throne stood two 
 umbrellas, symbols of royalty, covered with crimson 
 velvet richly embroidered with gold-thread, and clotted 
 with pearls, with handles of solid gold, eight feet long, 
 studded with diamonds. The back of the throne was 
 a representation of the expanded tail of a peacock, 
 the natural colors of which were imitated by sapphires, 
 rubies, emeralds, diamonds, and other l)rilliant gems of 
 great value, perhaps more so than in any other temple 
 in the world, except Solomon's in the holy city of Jeru- 
 salem." 
 
 The Persian invader and tyrant. Nadir Sliah, who 
 not only stripped the ]3alace of all its valuables, but sat 
 on the throne just described, ordered the slaughter of 
 nearly a hundred thousand of the helpless inhabitants 
 of Delhi : men, women, and children, were put to the 
 sword, filling the streets and avenues with their innocent 
 Mood. Walking over this marble floor, worn through 
 in places by the millions of footsteps, once the scene of 
 imperial magnificence, and in which so many cruel deeds 
 were perpetrated, we were forcibly reminded of the his- 
 tory of the. Jewish war, and the great Temple of Jeru- 
 salem, where there had been exhibited so many scenes of 
 grandeur, glory, cruelty, and humiliation, culminating at 
 
DELHI. 265 
 
 lengtli in final destruction. It has "been well said that, 
 if there ever was a paradise on the face of the earth, 
 it was the city of Delhi when she was in the height of 
 her glory. 
 
 Leaving the throne-room, we pass on to an adjacent 
 apartment containing the royal baths, surmounted by 
 domes — rooms of the purest white marble, with inlaid 
 borders, marble floors, and tanks, and a fountain in each 
 room ; there is much simplicit}^ in their arrangement, and 
 yet they are chaste and beautiful to behold. 
 
 January 2Sfh. — This morning, conducted by our ex- 
 perienced guide, who is conversant with the history of 
 all that concerns this ancient city, we ride out to the 
 Jumma Musjid, accounted one of the grandest mosques 
 in the East. It is situated on a small, rocky eminence, 
 overlooking^ the citv. Its court is four hundred and 
 fifty feet square, paved with red stone, and entered on 
 three sides by handsome gateways, easily approached by 
 flights of steps. In the centre of the square is a reservoir 
 or fountain of water. The edifice is very imposing, and, 
 with its lofty minarets, forms one of the most striking- 
 objects in Delhi. From its summit we had a view be- 
 fore us of the entire city and surroundings. This mosque 
 is two hundred feet in length, and one hundred and 
 twenty feet broad, surmounted by three superb domes 
 and two minarets. It was constructed under the super- 
 vision of Shah Jehau, and Avas ten years in building. 
 The interior is faced with plain white marble ; that part 
 which indicates the direction of the shrine of Mecca is a 
 handsome niche, adorned with a profusion of rich fancy- 
 
 18 
 
266 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 work, and appears to have been cut out of a solid j^iece 
 of white marble ; at about equal distances apart, there 
 are three projecting galleries. 
 
 Leaving the mosque, we rode through the Cashmere 
 Gate, with its battered portals and crumbling parapets, 
 and followed the road leading to the Flag-staff Tower. 
 On the way we passed by the cemetery in which is the 
 grave of Nicholson, who captured Delhi during the 
 mutiny of 1857. Immediately above the cemetery is 
 Ludlow Castle ; some distance beyond, on the right, we 
 passed by Sir T. Metcalf's handsome residence on the 
 banks of the Junma. To the left, crowning the height, 
 we approached the Flag-staff Tower, into which, during 
 the mutiny, the women and children flocked for pro- 
 tection. Returning, we passed through the site of the 
 great battle-field. We also saw the observatory, now 
 in ruins. Near this is a handsome monument erected to 
 the memory of the victims who fell in the massacre. 
 BetAveen this monument and the observatory is one of 
 Asoka's pillars, dating, from the inscription found en- 
 graved thereon, two hundred years before the Christian 
 ,era. In the year 1766, by the explosion of a powder- 
 magazine, it was thrown down and broken into five 
 pieces. After the mutiny it was restored and set up by 
 the British Government. 
 
 Not far from the city-walls we come to the shaft or 
 monument of red stone known as the Lat. This stone 
 is in one single piece, forty feet high and ten feet in 
 thickness at its base, gradually tapering to the top. All 
 around it lie the massive ruins of an old palace. This 
 
DELHI. 267 
 
 sliaffc, or Lat, as it is called, bears an inscription of a very 
 ancient cliaraeter, whicli was entirely unintelligible to 
 the most learned Bralimans, but more recently European 
 skill has deciphered the writing, which proves to consist 
 of certain edicts for the furtherance of religion and 
 virtue, put forth by a king named Dhuma Asoka Piya- 
 dasi, who reigned 322 b. c. This saint must have changed 
 his character after he ascended the throne, since he 
 ordered ninety of his relatives who had prior claims to 
 be put to death. Tliis shaft is, therefore, twenty-two 
 hundred years old, and the inscription upon it is proba- 
 bly the oldest writing in India. 
 
 We now come to the old Pathan Fort, inclosed by 
 walls sixty feet high ; at each angle is a circular bastion, 
 and in the middle of each side a gateway, defended by 
 two towers pierced with loop-holes. Within the fort is 
 a mosque, a building of excellent design and rich work- 
 manship. The front is of red stone inlaid with marble 
 and colored stone, and ornamented with projecting bal- 
 conies supported by elegant brackets. It is crowned 
 with three domes, the central one very lofty. 
 
 January '2Wi. — This morning early, accompanied by 
 our guide, we rode out to the Kootub Minar, eleven 
 miles from the hotel. It is rej)uted to be the loftiest 
 column in the world. Kootub Minar is a tinted pillar 
 two hundred and forty feet in height, and about eighty 
 feet in circumference at the base, gradually diminishing 
 to forty feet at the summit. It is divided into five 
 stories by 2:)rojecting balconies, which surround the tower 
 and add much to its beauty. The lower story is ninety- 
 
268 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 ■five feet in height from tlie base, the second fifty feet 
 above the first, the third forty feet above the second, the 
 fourth twenty-five feet above the third, and the fifth 
 fifteen feet above the fourth. For what purpose it was 
 erected no one can tell. This column is in a good state 
 
 THE KOOTLB JIIXAU. 
 
 of preservation, and its summit is reached by three hun- 
 dred and seventy-five steps. Looking up from its base, 
 I thouo-ht it too hio-h to ascend throuo-h a circular stair- 
 way ; but Mrs. Winants, having more of a passion for 
 climbing, ventured up, and on descending said the view 
 
DELHI. 269 
 
 from tlie summit of the column more than compensated 
 her for the fatiorue she endured. 
 
 Within a few hundred feet of the Kootub Minar are 
 numerous carved fragments of the ]\Iusjid-i-Kootul3-ul-Is- 
 1am, which was erected as the grand mosque of old Delhi. 
 It was constructed by its Mohammedan conqueror, at 
 the close of the twelfth century, from the spoils of twenty- 
 seven Hindoo temples. Some of the arches and pillars 
 are beautifully sculptured. In the centre of the court 
 stands the celebrated Iron Pillar, surrounded by clusters 
 of columns of infinite variety and design, and of the most 
 delicate workmanship. There are three entrances to the 
 large court. The Iron Pillar alluded to is a solid sbaft 
 of mixed metal, sixteen inches in diameter; it stands 
 twenty-two feet above the ground-surface, and as far be- 
 low-ground. The history of the shaft is as follows: 
 Rajah Pathora, fearing the fall of his dynasty, consulted 
 the Brahmans as to what steps should be taken to insure 
 its continuance. He was informed that, if he sunk an 
 iron shaft into the ground, it would pierce tlie head of 
 the snake-god Lishay, who supported the world, and his 
 kingdom would endure forever. The pillar was accord- 
 ingly constructed. How long the shaft remained undis- 
 turbed is not mentioned ; but the rajah, either distrust- 
 ing his priestly advisers, or desirous of seeing for him- 
 self whether the snake had been touched, had the pillar 
 taken up, and, finding the end of it covered with blood, 
 ordered the pillar to be again inserted in the ground. 
 His Brahman friends now told him that the sceptre 
 would soon pass away from the hands of the Hindoo 
 
270 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 sovereign — that the charm was broken. Shortly after 
 this, Shihab-ncl-cliu took possession of the kingdom, and 
 from that time no Hindoo king has reigned in the great 
 city of Delhi. 
 
 Sekander Sani, consisting of a cluster of buildings, is 
 the next place we visited. We entered a gateway with 
 pointed horseshoe arches. The building within the court 
 is surrounded by massive screens of marble lattice-work, 
 and the whole structure surmounted by a dome. From 
 here we were invited to visit the " Tank," about one 
 hundred paces distant, partly inclosed by a wall eiglity 
 feet high, from the top of which souie live or six nearly- 
 naked natives leaped into the Avater one by one. After 
 reaching terra firma each in turn held out his hand for 
 money in reward for the performance, for which visitors 
 are expected to pay, and it is a feat that every traveler 
 should witness. They sprang with outstretched arms 
 and legs, and kept in this position until within about 
 twenty or thirty feet from the \vater, when they sud- 
 denly straightened themselves uj^right, plunged feet fore- 
 most into the tank, and soon reappeared swimming on 
 the surface. 
 
 Delhi, Avith her noble fort and splendid palaces, her 
 stupendous mosques, Ler battered walls and public halls^ 
 once the pride of India, is a grand desolation, covered 
 with ruins, which it would require volumes to describe 
 and months to explore. 
 
 It is conceded by many travelers that the wonderful 
 ruins spread over Northern India are of greater interest 
 to the tourist than any existing in the world, excepting 
 
DELHI. 271 
 
 those of Palestine and Egypt, whicli are more intimately 
 connected with the world's sacred history. 
 
 We called upon the Rev. Dr. Smith, who cordially 
 received us, and gave much information concerning the 
 missionary work in whicli he has been engaged at this 
 post for the last twenty-live years. He not only preaches 
 some three or four times a week to the natives, bnt has 
 much to do with the municipal business of the city. The 
 Queen's Gardens are also committed to his care, with 
 their menageries and all that pertains to them. 
 
 When Dr. Smith entered Delhi, in 1850, he made his 
 first convert in this place, and had to preach in a very 
 small room. Now he has a flourishing church, with six 
 hundred members, of which four hundred or more are 
 communicants, and the mission is self-sustaining. He 
 has also charge of a flourishing school, where several 
 native young men have been fitted for the ministry, and 
 sent out to preach the gos2:>el truth to their countrymen. 
 By this means, in a circuit of fifty miles or more, several 
 additional churches have been established. Dr. Smith 
 is accustomed to go over this circuit at least twice a year, 
 visiting the churches and administering to their spiritual 
 welfare. He said that the country churches were chiefly 
 conducted by native 2:)reachers, who had much greater 
 influence and made more converts than foreign mission- 
 aries, but they require more monetary means to carry 
 on the work successfully ; as to laborers in the missionary 
 field they have a good supply. 
 
 Dr. Smith's excellent wife, a lady of rare culture and 
 refinement, and great energy of character, together with 
 
272 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 some four or five other women, conducts the Zenana Mis- 
 sion, and has free access to over eighty Mohammedan 
 girls, who are instructed in letters and needle-work. The 
 ladies of this mission, who go out daily among the zena- 
 nas, are generally cordially received, and many of the 
 wealthy natives ex^^ress an earnest desire that their ^vives 
 and daughters may be instructed. This institution is 
 not altogether new ; its specific form was adopted some 
 fifteen years ago by the Woman's Union Missionary So- 
 ciety of America for Heathen Lands, which is spreading 
 over most of the large cities of India, and whose head- 
 quarters are at Calcutta. It is a work of great imj^or- 
 tance to the women of India, who are so little esteemed 
 by the male sex, as it brings them, in closer connection 
 with the influence of the Christian religion. 
 
 Since the mutiny of 1857, by which the city of Delhi 
 was greatly damaged, the English Grovernment has made 
 many improvements. The Queen's Gardens, in the mid- 
 dle of the town, are laid out with much taste, beautified 
 by fine roads and walks, and ornamented with flowers, 
 shrubs, and shade-trees. A costly memorial church has 
 been erected within the inclosure to commemorate those 
 who fell in the terrible revolt, which burst upon the city 
 with such terrific force. 
 
 The insurrection commenced at Meerut, about forty- 
 five miles distant. After the massacre of the Europeans — 
 men, women, and children — at that j^lace, tlxe Sepoys set 
 out in a body for Delhi, where the native troops joined 
 them, leaving the fortifications with only a few English 
 officers, many of whom were slaughtered by the insur- 
 
DELHI. 273 
 
 gents. The magazine, which contained an enormous sup- 
 ply of powder, guns, and other implements of war, was 
 in charge of Lieutenant Willoughby. Seeing the state 
 of affairs, he closed and barricaded the gates, and then, 
 laying a train of gunpowder, j^repared to blow up the 
 arsenal should resistance prove unavailing. Only nine 
 English oflScers kept thousands of Se2:)oys at bay, until 
 at length, completely exhausted, and likely to be over- 
 powered by the enemy, the match was ap2:>lied, and more 
 than a thousand mutineers were blown into the air. All 
 the Europeans in the city who had not made their escape 
 were massacred by the Sej^oys. The English families 
 were tied in row^s, and then shot and sabred without 
 mercy. Those who escaped suffered fearfully — tender 
 women and helpless children wandering for days under 
 the burning sun, lying down at night in the jungles in 
 constant fear of the enemy. At this time the city of 
 Delhi fell completely into the hands of the rebels; but 
 it was not long after when it was recaptured by the 
 English trooj3s, an exploit conceded to have been one of 
 the most brilliant and heroic achievements in the history 
 of Indian warfare. 
 
 January 30th. — This being the Sabbath, we availed 
 ourselves of the opportunity of attending divine service 
 at Rev. Dr. Smith's church, a neat and comfortable edi- 
 fice, beautifully situated in an open space about a mile 
 out from the city-walls. The first service was in the 
 native language. The church was entirely filled with 
 natives, who were neatly clad in the costume of the 
 country. The second sermon was in English, the con- 
 
274 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 gregation consisting chiefly of British officers and sol- 
 diers. 
 
 January ^\st. — We now, having reached the remotest 
 point of our journey inland, and over a thousand miles 
 from the sea, turn our faces homeward by the East India 
 Railway 11.30 a. m. train for Bombay, distant twelve 
 hundred and thirty -four miles ; fare one hundred and 
 eleven rupees each, with the j^rivilege of stopping 
 and remaining over at any place on the road. At a 
 quarter-past twelve o'clock we arrived at Gareeabad^ 
 thirteen miles below Delhi, where there is a road branch- 
 ing off to the Himalaya Mountains, distant sixty miles by 
 rail and thirty by bullock-carts, where we had a strong 
 desire to go ; but we were informed, by those who had 
 just returned from the mountains, that the snow was 
 deep and the weather cold, therefore we reluctantly de- 
 clined making the trip. On our arrival in Southern 
 India, we found the weather so extremely hot that we 
 concluded to send our heavy trunks, containing all our 
 thick clothing, by ship to Bombay, which we were to 
 receive on our arrival at that place. Hence we were not 
 prepared to encounter cold weather. 
 
 A few days can be profitably spent in the Himalayas, 
 the loftiest peak of which. Mount Everest, is represented 
 to be a little over twenty-nine thousand feet high, the 
 greatest mountain altitude in the world ; but they are 
 not popular as a winter resort. During the hot season 
 they are visited by the rajahs, princes, and English noble- 
 men, who have fine summer residences scattered over the 
 hill-country, devoting their time principally to hunting 
 
DELHI. 275 
 
 wild game, with all kinds of which, such as wild ele- 
 phants, leopards, tigers, wolves, wild-cats, etc., it is said 
 the mountains are infested. But, during the winter, the 
 entire region is nearly deserted, being visited only by 
 tourists in search of novelty. 
 
 As we proceed down the road, on our way toward 
 Bombay, we occasionally encounter large herds of deei', 
 antelo23e, and numerous flocks of large birds, seemingly 
 as tame as if they had never heard a gun. As night is 
 coming on, our car is lit up, and we commence to un- 
 bundle our bedding, spreading it out in the best possible 
 manner upon the lengthy seats for an all-night's ride. 
 The days in India at this season are extremely hot, but 
 the nights, especially just before dawn of day, we fnind 
 were chilly. 
 
 Fehruary \st. — This morning, at seven o'clock, we 
 tind ourselves in Allahabad, three hundred and ninety 
 miles from Delhi, having been nineteen hours on the 
 passage from the latter |)lace. We are driven to the 
 Northwestern Hotel, where we have good quarters for 
 five rupees a day for each person. This hotel is pleas- 
 antly situated and well conducted. 
 
CHxiPTER XXVI. 
 
 ALLAHABAD. 
 
 The. city of Allahabad is situated on a tongue of land 
 formed by the confluence of the Junma and Ganges 
 Rivers, and is considered by the Hindoos as one of the 
 most sacred localities in India, being venerated by them 
 as the place where three rivers join, only two of these 
 streams being visible to mortal eyes; the third, they 
 assert, flows direct from paradise ! 
 
 Allahabad, a name given to the place by the Moham- 
 medan conquerors, means the " City of God." When a 
 pilgrim arrives here, the first thing he does is to repair 
 to the river and sit down upon the bank ; he then has 
 his head and body closely shaved, so that each hair may 
 fall into the water, the sacred writings promising him 
 one million years' residence in paradise for every hair 
 deposited in the water ! After shaving, he bathes, to 
 wash his sins away. 
 
 The fort, built by Akbar, rises directly from the 
 banks of the two rivers, which situation rendered it 
 in former days nearly impregnable. It covers a large 
 ground-surface, and has been a very noble castle in its 
 time, but has suffered greatly by cannon-balls and other 
 missiles. It is still, however, a striking place, and its 
 principal entrance is surmounted ])y a dome, with a 
 
ALLAHABAD. 277 
 
 wide liall, surrounded by arcades and galleries. With- 
 in the in closure is the hall occupied by Akbar. The 
 Europeans took refuge in this old fort during the mutiny 
 of 1857, many of whom fell victims to cholera brought 
 on by privation and suffering. 
 
 Allahabad has acquired much importance within a 
 few years by the removal of the capital from Agra to 
 this place. Aside from the old city a new one has been 
 laid out, with broad avenues and spacious squares ; and 
 large puldic buildings, including some of the finest bar- 
 racks in India, have recently been finished. Many beau- 
 tiful bungalows have also been erected, surrounded by 
 extensive . gardens, planted witL ornamental shade-trees 
 and flowers, giving the dwellings a cheerful and pretty 
 appearance. In the mutiny of 1857 every foreign resi- 
 dence and every public Ijuilding was destroyed, except- 
 ing the Masonic Hall, which the natives did not dare 
 to attack, on account of the spirits that were supposed 
 to guard it. The ancient city of Allahabad is of con- 
 siderable extent, but is poorly built, the houses being 
 low, and the streets narrow and winding. 
 
 Allahabad has Ions; been known as a mission-field 
 of the American Presbyterian Church. It is the chief 
 place of pilgrimage, and, through the multitudes that 
 gather here every year, an influence may be sent out to 
 every part of India by those who come here to wash 
 their sins away in the holy waters of the Gauges and 
 Jumna, this being to the Hindoos the most sacred spot 
 in the world. 
 
 The bridge over the Jumna is one of the attrac- 
 
278 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 tions of Allaliabad, the river being about a half-mile 
 broad at tliis point. The bridge is one of the finest 
 in the world, being entirely of wrought-iron, and thirty- 
 two hundred and twenty -four feet long; there are 
 fifteen openings in it, each two hundred and five feet 
 in the clear. The construction of this bridge is con- 
 sidered a great triumph of engineering skill. The bed 
 of the river is very treacherous, owing to the loose ma- 
 terial and the rapid current at this point. The immense 
 piers are sunk fifty feet below the level of low water, 
 and the water at the time of a freshet in the river rises 
 here from forty-five to fifty feet, so that these stupendous 
 stone piers must necessarily be one hundred feet high 
 merely to lift the bridge above high water. The rail- 
 way is carried over on top of tlie iron girders, and the 
 public carriage-road is underneath. The I'ailway is 
 carried on a viaduct for a long distance after leaving the 
 bridge, the former being almost as fine a work as the 
 bridge itself, constructed as it is on lofty arches. The 
 East India Rail wav and the Grand Trunk road both have 
 depots in this city. It has become an important railway 
 centre, and is the very focus of the great railway system 
 of Hindostan, which unites Bengal, Northern India, and 
 Bombay. 
 
 The two great rivers that here unite are navigable 
 for steamers for a long distance, and the Ganges from 
 here to Calcutta has a fall of only five inches to the mile. 
 This lordly stream, in its course from the mountains to 
 the sea, receives as tributaries no less than twenty rivers, 
 twelve of which are of greater volume than the Rhine. 
 
ALLAHABAD. 279 
 
 The lower part of tliis great river is covered with ships, 
 steamers, and vessels of every description, and by its 
 agency an immense commerce is carried on w^ith every 
 section of the country. 
 
 Allahabad is admirably situated, and its population 
 and trade have steadily increased and are still increasing. 
 The population has doubled in a few years, and now 
 numbers nearly two hundred thousand souls. The new 
 Capitol is of stone, located in the centre of a large park, 
 with grounds elegantly laid out, and adorned with the 
 beautiful trees of this favored land ; as yet, however, the 
 trees are small and afford but little shade, but an abun- 
 dant supply of water is provided for the ground, and in 
 a few 3^ears will make the place beautiful. 
 
 The university buildings are also of stone, large and 
 elegant, and wdth fine grounds adjoining, but in which 
 the trees are as yet small. These public buildings are 
 among the finest in India. The site of the city is level, 
 and the streets are very smooth, being macadamized in 
 the best possible manner. It is never winter here, and 
 the leaves do not fall, but are ever green ; the grass, 
 however, withers, for there is no rain at this season of 
 the year, and the land that is not irrigated is dry, parched 
 up, and seemingly dead. 
 
 February 'id. — This morning early we hired a car- 
 riage, procured an experienced guide, and rode to the 
 junction of the Ganges and Jumna Rivers, where we 
 found the great Hindoo fair, which is only celebrated 
 once in every ten years (although they have regular 
 annual fairs not so large) in full display. It was the 
 
280 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 largest concourse of people that I ever witnessed. Thou- 
 sands and teis of thousands come from all parts of India 
 to worship, and wash their sins away in these united 
 waters. Flag-s of various ordei's were hoisted over 
 stands on which Brahman priests were seated to receive 
 fees and read their Shastas. Before reaching the sacred 
 waters, for a mile along both sides of the wide avenue, 
 all sorts of shops and tents were pitched, for the sale of 
 idols and useful and useless articles. Within the encamp- 
 ment good order prevailed, and the people were seemingly 
 devout in their manner of woi ship. The scene reminded 
 me of a colored Methodist camp-meeting. In the tents 
 the people were quietly seated upon the ground, the 
 priects reading to them from books, and others preaching 
 to the multitude. But the most loathsome sisfhts that 
 I have ever beheld were in some of the tents : devotees 
 with their bodies covered with sackcloth and ashes, as 
 an atonement for sin ; others with heads shaven close to 
 the skull, completely covered with ashes, upon their 
 bended knees, with their faces fixed toward heaven as 
 if in silent prayer ; while others still were as naked as 
 when horn, with the exception of a small piece of muslin 
 cloth frirded around the loins, their bodies colored vel- 
 low, and striped with red paint. Every tent in which 
 there was j^reaching had incense burning at the door. 
 
 As we passed through the dense crowds to the 
 water - front, its banks were literally thronged with 
 people, and thousands were bathing in the Ganges; 
 while others, having their heads and bodies shaved pre- 
 paratory to entering the sacred waters, crowded on 
 
ALLAHABAD. 281 
 
 numerous boat&i. The encampment-grounds covered a 
 space of not less than one hundred acres, and there were 
 reputed to have been five hundred thousand people in 
 and around this locality, who came from all quarters of 
 the peninsula on this occasion. Many brought tents, 
 provisions, and cooking-utensils, with them. Some from 
 the remotest parts were from three to four weeks on the 
 journey to this fair. In coming from Delhi we passed 
 bullock-carts loaded with devotees, both men and women ; 
 others on foot, dragging their way along toward the holy 
 river. It is said that many of the older people remain 
 here to die, and have their bodies either burned or 
 thrown into the Ganges ; in the case of those who are 
 too poor to pay the expense of the funeral-pile, their 
 bodies are thrown into the sacred waters with little or 
 no ceremony. After hearing of this custom of the Hin- 
 doos, our party ate no more fish while in the country. 
 
 The Hindoos also worship the sun, moon, stars, and 
 fire. By one of our i)arty an intelligent-looking native 
 was asked why they worshiped such things. He re- 
 plied that they believed in one God, who was the true 
 light of both heaveu and earth ; that the sun, moon, 
 stars, and fire, gave lights, and God dwelt in all those 
 lights. In making further inquiry, the question was 
 asked why they worshiped so many gods and goddesses. 
 He answered that the true God was invisible ; and the 
 only way by which they had access to his presence was 
 through their graven images or gods, who were merely 
 representatives, standing between them and their God, 
 and through them came answer to prayer. 
 
 19 
 
282 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 The worsliip of idols God lias denounced in tlie 
 strongest possible language througliout botli the Old 
 and New Testaments, declaring that man shall not wor- 
 ship graven images (Jeremiah xxv. 6 : " And go not 
 after other gods to serve them, and to worship them, 
 and provoke me not to anger with the works of your 
 hands; and I will do you no hurt"). The missionaries 
 may well ask for the sympathy and prayers of the 
 rio-hteous in their conflict with such abominable wor- 
 ship of idols ! The Christian workers in these benighted 
 and heathen lands have a double duty to perform, like 
 the builders of the walls of Jerusalem under Nehemiah, 
 w^hen they had to work with the trowel in one hand, 
 and stand ready to defend themselves with the sword 
 in the other. 
 
 In a tour around the world, mission-work and mis- 
 sionaries naturally form topics of thought and conversa- 
 tion. I regard this subject as one possessing elements 
 of special interest to travelers ; and, if no friendly sym- 
 pathy were felt to awaken inquiry and lead to inves- 
 tigation of facts, adverse representations would have 
 that effect. On board the steamers of the Pacific, and 
 in these Eastern seas, we are almost certain to meet with 
 missionaries traveling to or from their respective fields 
 of labor, and we are almost equally sure to encounter 
 some of anti-missionary sentiments, who never seem to 
 be more in their glory than when I'eviling the mission- 
 aries and speaking disparagingly of their work. We 
 had representatives of both of these classes with us all 
 the way from San Francisco to Ja2:>an, China, India, and 
 
ALLAHABAD. 283 
 
 even met tliem in the British settlements, speaking and 
 arguing against missionary work. 
 
 If it liad not heen for tlie missionaries of Eno-land and 
 America, who at first introduced the princij^jles of civili- 
 zation into Asia, which has had so great an influence 
 in opening the doors of her commerce to the AVestern 
 world, we would not to-day have known so much of her 
 history. Therefore tourists, in traveling around the 
 globe, whether they are pious or otherwise, instead of 
 speaking against the missionaries, without some tangible 
 and sufficient cause, should commend their work for the 
 good which it has already done, and which no intelli- 
 gent observer can doubt. 
 
 Eno-land and the United States have sent out more 
 missionaries, and done more to civilize and Christianize 
 the heathen, than all other countries together. The 
 little seeds of salvation, sown by the influence of these 
 devoted laborers, have taken root, and are slowly but 
 gradually spreading over the continent of Asia, and the 
 islands of the sea^ Ere long will come the rich harvest, 
 according to the teaching of the Scriptures, when even 
 from the least to the greatest all shall know the name 
 of the Lord. 
 
CHAPTER XXVII. 
 
 JUBBULPORE TO BO 31 BAY. 
 
 February Sd. — This morning we resumed our tour 
 €71 route for Bombay by the 8 a. m. train. Nynce, a small 
 village, is our first stopping-place after leaving Allaha- 
 bad. From here we ran through a fine open countiy, 
 well cultivated, till we came to Jurra, where we made 
 another halt. Soon after leaving N3'nce the cultivation 
 decreases, and low jungle-bnshes appear scattered over 
 the valley. Farther along, the country, for some two 
 or three miles, is covered with ]ar2:e black bowlders of 
 granite, but in the distance are seen high ranges of moun- 
 tain-scenery. We soon reach a bold headland, which 
 appears to be the end of the chain, but as we move along 
 it again appears in the distance, where richly- wooded 
 slopes meet the eye. Farther on a long curve through 
 a cutting brings us into a fine expanse of open country^ 
 bounded on the left by high hills, which soon after sweep 
 round to the right. As the train rushes along, two large 
 tigers are seen in the jungle not far from the track. 
 We stop at Mujgowan for nearly half an hour. It is 
 in a charming situation, embosomed in hills, and is the 
 highest point in the Ghauts. 
 
 Soon after leaving this station, we are again in a fine 
 
JUBBULPORE TO BOMBAY. 285 
 
 open country, witli a few trees scattered liere and there, 
 ^nd a Mffli rano;e of hills before us. We arrive at Sutna 
 at 2.30 p. M., where we dine. About a mile from the 
 town we cross a river of the same name. Now the view 
 is all closed in by the high hills. As we emerge from 
 these, we pass for nearly thirty miles through a beauti- 
 ful level valley, bounded on either side, in the distance, 
 by lofty hills of almost uniform height, sloping gently 
 to the plain. Later in the afternoon we pass through, 
 very pretty jungle-scenery, diversified here and there by 
 detached hills rising from a beautifully-wooded plain, 
 and all along we occasionally see some large herds of 
 deer and antelope, and flocks of birds. 
 
 Early in the evening we passed by a mountain on 
 fire, which was most beautiful to look upon. At ten 
 o'clock in the evening we arrive in Jubbulpore, where 
 we break our journey, and put up in the Great Northern 
 Hotel — board five rupees a day. This hotel is about 
 half a mile from the station ; it is somewhat fantastic in 
 its construction, but very well kept. 
 
 Februartj UJi. — The country in the vicinity of Jub- 
 bulpore is interesting on account of its diversified hills, 
 which contain a variety of precious stones. Beautiful 
 specimens of agate, porphyry, blood-stone, and many 
 other rare and valuable gems, are found here, and can be 
 purchased at reasonable prices. 
 
 Jubbulpore is a thriving place, with good roads and 
 pleasant bungalows. The city contains eleven thou- 
 sand houses within its boundaries. The streets are 
 w^ide and clean, lined with shops and residences, built 
 
286 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 to conform to the Oriental style, and present rather a 
 pretty aspect. 
 
 This is the station to which the Thuo^s were consigned 
 when the mutiny of 1857 wa§ suppressed. They are 
 organized into a sort of penal colony under British super- 
 vision. Some of the more desperate and dangerous char- 
 acters are in irons, and they are all kept at hard labor. 
 Even the children of the Thug's are coniined here, and 
 are not allowed to go out, lest the band should again 
 spread over the country, and its fearful and unnatural 
 crimes be repeated. 
 
 The prison covers a large space, with a court within^ 
 which is kept well guarded, the door and windows be- 
 ing secured by heavy iron-bound gates and shutters. 
 We were shown by the superintendent through the in- 
 stitution. Some of the prisoners were hackling flax and 
 carding wool, others spinning, and others again weaving 
 the fabric into carpets and blankets, of a very neat pat- 
 tern and color, for the English army. The whole of the 
 work is performed with machines of native construction, 
 and of the most ancient design. It was very interesting 
 to see a row of small boys sitting on a seat behind the 
 weavers threadins; needles. There are other branches of 
 industry carried on in this institution, which was alto-^ 
 gether well worth a visit. 
 
 We engaged an exj^erienced guide, and rode out for 
 several miles into the country. Coming to the foot of a 
 group of hills, presenting a wild and most picturesque- 
 appearance, we left the carriage and climbed the highest 
 peak, on which is a Hindoo temple of great antiquity^ 
 
JUBBULPOEE TO BOMBAY. 987 
 
 constructed on tlie ,very edge of a "bold precipice. We 
 ascended a flight of stone steps till we came to the roof 
 of the temple, whence we obtained a magnificent view 
 of the surrounding country. The scenery throughout is 
 full of beauty; the valley and adjacent hills, as we look 
 down upon them, were covered with gigantic bowlders 
 of granite, scattered in the wildest confusion, some deeply 
 imbedded in the ground, others piled one upon another 
 in such peculiar positions that it seemed as if they had 
 been placed there by the hand of man instead of Nature ; 
 others were riven in twain by some mighty force — all 
 more or less in a state of decomposition, the slow but 
 sure decay of centuries, which, after a time, must end 
 in the displacement of the ponderous masses. Eiding 
 through the woods, we saw two very fine monkeys play- 
 fully jumping from branch to branch, seemingly paying 
 but little attention to passers-by. As we proceeded 
 through the shady forest we met two Brahman priests, 
 clothed in their usual yellow garments, both bareheaded 
 and barefooted; but they would no more disturb or 
 harm a monkey than we would some choice animal, for 
 the reason that monkevs are amono- their chief idols of 
 worship. We returned to the city by a difl:erent road 
 from that by which we came. Just before reaching it 
 we passed by some splendid country bungalows sur- 
 rounded by spacious parks, or large gardens, lined with 
 shade-trees, planted with shrubs, and adorned with beau- 
 tiful flowers. 
 
 The Nerbudda Eiver is not far from the city of Jub- 
 bulpore, and is a clear and rapid stream, with high and 
 
288 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 precipitous banks. This being the dry season, the water 
 is low. Here are deposited thousands of logs of the 
 finest timber, cut in the mountain-forests, and waiting 
 for the river to rise, when they are floated in rafts down 
 to the sea. 
 
 All the ancient public edifices in India are built of 
 stone. The elaborate workmanship on some of the 
 stone-work shows that cutting and engraving had at- 
 tained to a perfection several centuries ago that is now 
 unknown to the natives of the countr}^ 
 
 February htli. — This morning we take our departure 
 by the half-past nine train en route for Bombay. We 
 have assigned to our company a reserved carriage. The 
 extension of the East India Railroad between here and 
 Bombay has only been opened to travel within some 
 three or four years ; since its completion, it has become 
 one of the most important lines in India, as it links 
 Calcutta with Bombay, and greatly reduces the time 
 occupied by bullock-carts, v/hich required several weeks ; 
 the entire distance can now be accomplished in less than 
 two days. I purpose describing only a few of the prin- 
 cipal places along the road. 
 
 At Chandni is an okl fortification commanding the 
 great pass from the west into Hindostau. It stands 
 upon a precipitous rock, and possesses considerable nat- 
 ural strength. The face of the country is wild and 
 diversified, and the railway must have cost an immense 
 sum for grading through this mountain-pass. During 
 the afternoon several monkeys were seen jumping from 
 branch to branch in the wild forest-trees. The scenery 
 
JUBBULPORE TO BOMBAY. 289 
 
 was SO very interesting that, when nightfall came upon 
 us, we regretted that the day had not been longer. 
 
 Fehrua/ry 6th. — This morning, by the break of day, 
 we enter the Ghauts. The scenery through all this 
 region is most picturesque, wild, and charming. The 
 road winds round the beautiful wooded mountains in 
 every conceivable way, constantly opening to our de- 
 lighted gaze v^iews different from those seen by us in any 
 other country. For a long distance we follow the wind- 
 ing course of the Godavery River, which has its source 
 in this mountain-range, its troubled waters rolling over 
 bowlders in the wildest confusion. As we are making 
 the descent from the highest and western Ghaut, the 
 road winds and curves round 2:)recipitous mountain-peaks, 
 reminding one of the worm of a screw. While looking 
 out on one side of the carriage one sees overhanging 
 rocks reaching as it were above the clouds, and from the 
 other are beheld far below in the abyss the furious tor- 
 rent of waters rushing and leaping over the rocks, and 
 making a noise like that of some great cataract. After 
 leaving the Ghauts the country slopes gradually away 
 into vast plains. 
 
 From Kussara the highest point is reached, where 
 begins the incline toward the sea. The course of the 
 railway is indescribably beautiful : the lofty cliifs, green 
 slopes, wooded gorges, silver streams, cascades, forests of 
 palms and teak-trees, and other Oriental trees in blossom, 
 all combine to present a picture of grandeur and beauty. 
 Before reaching the plains we passed through thirteen 
 tunnels, the longest in all India. 
 
290 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 Just before reaching Bombay we crossed over the 
 island of Salsette, which is approached from the main- 
 land by a handsome bridge. This island is diversified 
 by hills, mountains, and fertile valleys, where we see 
 various ruins, consisting of churches, convents, and villas. 
 From here we passed through a succession of beautiful 
 gardens and groves of mangoes, cocoa-nuts, and palms, of 
 great beauty, till we come almost to the gates of the city. 
 At 11.30 A. M. we arrived in Bombay, and were driven 
 to the Byculla Hotel, where we had excellent entertain- 
 ment at five rupees a day. This hotel is beautifully 
 situated on the border of the town, having airy rooms, 
 and two tiers of balconies, one above the other, stretch- 
 ing all around the house, well adapted to the hot cli- 
 mate. 
 
CHAPTER XXVIII. 
 
 BOMBAY. 
 
 Februarg ^tli. — The city of Bombay is beautifully 
 situated on an island of the same name, which belongs 
 to a group connected by a causeway. The land is mostly 
 level, excepting the rising ground called Malabar Hill, a 
 point to the west of the island. Bombay has a fine har- 
 bor for shipping, nearly land-locked, in which lie some 
 of the largest and finest ships in the world. The island 
 was taken by the Portuguese in the early part of the 
 sixteenth century, and by them ceded in 1661 to Charles 
 H. of England, as part of the dowry of his queen, Cath- 
 arine of Braganza. King Charles, five years later, either 
 gave or sold it to the East India Company; and in 1865 
 it was made the capital of the Western Presidency. 
 On the opening of communication with England by the 
 Red Sea route it received a new impetus, and railroad 
 communication centring here from all parts of India, its 
 population and commerce have rapidly increased. It is 
 admirably located, both in regard to its internal and 
 foreign trade, at the western entrance of India, has di- 
 rect communication with the richest parts of the great 
 peninsula, and is the nearest point of communication with 
 the whole Western world. Bombay contains a popula- 
 tion of six hundred and fifty thousand, and is the most 
 
292 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 lively city in India. Nearly all the tribes of Hindostan 
 are represented here, besides Chinese, Persians, Afghans, 
 Arabs, Jews, Europeans, and many other nationalities. 
 The costumes of the people are varied and gay, and the 
 streets are j)erfectly thronged by a busy multitude both 
 on foot and in carriasies. 
 
 February ^tli. — To-day I called upon the American 
 consul, and examined the shij^ping in the harbor, which 
 was an interesting sight to witness ; numerous large ships 
 lying off at anchor shij^ping and discharging cargoes, 
 each ship, by its flag, representing its nationality. I also 
 saw the flag of our country, the stars and stripes, waving 
 to the breeze — that glorious standard which has greeted 
 us in every clime, floats in peace over every ocean, and 
 has its influence in every land and upon every sea. 
 
 February 9th. — We saw the procession of the Mo- 
 hammedan annual relisjious fair, this beins; the tenth 
 and last day. The procession marched through the 
 sti'eets, which were literally crowded with people. Some 
 in the procession, as it was moving on, were plaj^ing on 
 musical instruments, others were dancing, and others 
 singing, all exhibited in a religious way. 
 
 February 10th. — We chartered a small steam-yacht, 
 and invited some seven or eight English ladies and gen- 
 tlemen who were stopping at the hotel to devote the 
 afternoon to a visit to the beautiful little island Ele- 
 phanta, about six miles across the bay. The caves of 
 Elephanta are deserted Buddhist temples, immense cav- 
 erns cut in the solid rock. The entrance to the first 
 temj^le has three oj^enings, and is supported by huge 
 
BOMBAY. 293 
 
 pillars formed in the rock. This temple is one hundred 
 and thirty-three feet in length, one hundred and thirty- 
 broad, with a ceiling twenty feet high, supported l3y 
 ranges of massive pillars beautifully carved. Opposite 
 the main entrance is a gigantic busfc with three heads, 
 supposed to represent the Hindoo Trinity. Here are 
 two small temples, one on each side of the principal one, 
 the true history of which is not known ^vith any degree 
 of certainty, but they are supj^osed to have been built 
 in the sixth century. There are numerous other carved 
 figures and shrines on the island, which is beautifully 
 wooded, and one of the group that forms the harbor of 
 Bombay. 
 
 Febmary Wtli. — This afternoon we rode out to Mal- 
 abar Hill, overlooking the sea and city — the handsomest 
 spot in Bombay. It is a kind of cemetery, selected by 
 the Parsees, on account of its great elevation, for dispos- 
 ing of their dead. It is constantly guarded by men of 
 a distinct caste, who are not permitted to mingle with 
 the rest of the people. This cemetery contains a large 
 building devoted to the preservation of the sacred fire, 
 which has been burning from the remotest age, and is 
 never allowed to expire. Here are buildings for the 
 priests and those having charge of the dead ; and also 
 five round stone towers, called the Towers of Silence, 
 each from forty to fifty feet high and about sixty in 
 diameter, which are the receptacles of the dead. 
 
 When a death occurs, the body is taken to the gate 
 of the cemetery, approached by a high flight of steps, 
 and delivered into the hands of the priests. After a 
 
294 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 prescribed ceremonial, the body is taken to one of tlie 
 towers and laid on a grate upon the extreme top, where 
 a flock of hideous vultures is always flying around wait- 
 ing to devour the flesh, and the bones at length fall 
 within the inclosure of the tower below in heaps. It is 
 the most revolting mode of disposing of the remains of 
 departed friends which I have seen in any country — 
 quite as bad as, if not worse than, the Hindoo mode of 
 cremation. 
 
 The scenery from this high hill is most magnificent 
 to witness ; the drive was through groves of cocoa-nut 
 jDalms, and bungalows, surrounded by a profusion of 
 Oriental trees and floAvers, mostly occupied by Parsees, 
 who form by far the most numerous class in Bombay. 
 
 The Parsees embody a great part of the wealth of 
 the city, and are the most intelligent and enterprising 
 of the natives of the country. A large i^art of the mer- 
 cantile business is also in their hands. Their costume is 
 of a peculiar cut, partly European and partly Oriental ; 
 they are readily recognized in every part of the East by 
 their high-crowned leather hats. They have a sort of a 
 caste similar to the Hindoos, and are forbidden to marry 
 excepting among their own people. They seldom eat 
 anything cooked by one of another religion. We had 
 in com23any with us on the steamship from Hong-Kong 
 to Canton three Parsee gentlemen, who had a separate 
 table, and instead of eating fish, meat, and j^otatoes, 
 w^ith knife and fork, the food was first carved, and 
 picked up by their fingers. They are as a rule well 
 educated, but, with all their intelligence, they hold with 
 
BOMBAY. 295 
 
 great tenacity to the ancient forms and superstitions of 
 tlieir ancestry, and there are no more bio-oted reliscionists 
 among all the tribes of Asia. They are the descendants 
 of the discijiles of Zoroaster, who lived in Persia several 
 centuries before Christ, and it was by him that their 
 form of religion was established. They are usually 
 known as fire-worshipers reverencing fire, as well as the 
 sun, moon, and other heavenly bodies. In their temples 
 fire is kept continually burning by priests, who maintain 
 that it has never been extinguished. They feed it with 
 fragrant spices, and treat it as if it were a god. The 
 priests cover the lower part of their faces with a mask 
 wlien they approach the sacred fire, lest they should 
 defile it with their breath. 
 
 February 12th. — We devoted the day to riding about 
 the city. "We visited the Town Hall, a massive struct- 
 ure, with apartments not only for the public service but 
 scientific and historical purposes. The rooms of the 
 Royal Asiatic Society, with its immense library and 
 museum, are full of interest to every tourist. We also 
 rode to the fortifications. The Elphinstone Circle, named 
 from the Hon. Mountstuart Elphinstone, who succeeded 
 to the Bombay presidency in 1819, is surrounded by 
 fine public buildings, and the centre of the most im- 
 portant commercial oj)erations. 
 
 February \Ztli. — This being the Sabbath, we attended 
 the Baptist Mission church. The congregation consisted 
 of a goodly number of natives, neatly clad in the costume 
 of the country. I then visited the Union Missionary 
 Society works, which are in a prosj)erous condition. 
 
296 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 Their printing-press was at work, striking off religious 
 tracts and other publications, to be distributed over their 
 ■field of labor. 
 
 Fehriiary Wtli. — This evening, by invitation through 
 the landlord of our hotel, who is a Parsee in high stand- 
 ing, we attended a first-class wedding at the residence 
 of a wealthy Parsee. The couple, however, had been 
 
 PARSEE CHILDREN. 
 
 married for eio-ht davs ; but, accordino- to their custom, 
 the weddino; festival was continued for nine days, of 
 wdiich this was the last. The building was brilliantly 
 illuminated, both within and without, it will be safe to 
 say with thousands of taper-lights. . Both ladies and gen- 
 tlemen were dressed in their peculiar costume, and con- 
 stantly kept moving, coming and going. They treated 
 
BOMBAY. 297 
 
 US to some sweet spices, wliich comprised all that was 
 liaiidecl round to the company. It was more a display 
 of dress and o-randeiir than a feast. 
 
 February l^tli — The annual horse-races took place 
 to-day on the Byculla course, which was directly in the 
 rear of our hotel, from the lofty veranda of which we 
 saw the whole performance. The race-horses are not 
 kept in such nice trim, nor do they run as swiftly, as 
 those of America and England. 
 
 Fehruary l<6t]i. — They have continual summer in Bom- 
 bay, and its inhabitants have never seen frost nor snow. 
 The climate, at this season of the year, is genial and 
 pleasant. The thermometer stands on an average, at 
 noon, in the shade, at about 70° ; at night it is much 
 cooler, especially toward morning, when a blanket is 
 comfortable. 
 
 Fehruary 17th. — \Ye devote the time mostly to rid- 
 ing, in and out of the city, visiting the numerous shops, 
 filled with all kinds of toys, cheap fancy-goods, etc., 
 which reminds one of being in fairy-land. Among the 
 curious places in Bombay is the hospital for aged and 
 infirm animals. It is open to all species of animals, ex- 
 cepting the human. If a horse, camel, elephant, dog, or 
 other member of the l)rute creation, becomes disabled, 
 he is brougbt here and kindly treated at the exj^ense of 
 the institution. 
 
 Fehruary ISth. — England not only controls the peo- 
 ple of India, but she holds an enviable position of influ- 
 ence over the great masses in many parts of Asia. The 
 two small islands of Great Britain and Ireland claim to 
 
 20 
 
298 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 hold and govern more tlian one-tliird of the territory of 
 the globe. England's royal army of red-coats is seen 
 everyAvhere. Her ostensible policy is that of neutrality, 
 but, like her national symbol, the lion, she can be aggres- 
 sive, and is ever able to grapple with and to conquer any 
 feeble territory within her reach, in view of bringing it 
 under her rule. Japan, China, India, Amei'ica, and many 
 of the larsre islands of the sea, feel the influence of Eno"- 
 land's controlling power. 
 
 Doubtless it has been a great blessing to the people 
 of India in having; been brou^rht imder British rule. It 
 is with great pleasure that I bear testimony to the high 
 character of the men who have the administration of 
 affairs in the Indian Empire, as well as to the promising 
 aspect of the country's future. I doubt if any country 
 has more conscientious and intelligent public officers con- 
 trolling its destinies, but, as in the case of other new 
 administrations, there are yet important reforms to be 
 consummated. 
 
CHAPTEE XXIX. 
 
 BOMBAY TO SUEZ. 
 
 Fehruary Vdtli, — This afternoon at four o'clock we 
 embark on board the steamship Erl-King, Captain Ham- 
 ilton, and take passage for Suez ; distance three thousand 
 miles, fare two hundred and fifty rupees apiece. The 
 Erl-King is a fine iron ship, bark-rigged, of the capacity 
 of three thousand tons, propelled by a stern-screw. Our 
 passengers consist principally of East India officers — in 
 the military and civil service — and their families, return- 
 iDor to Ensfland on furloug-h or leave of absence. 
 
 When we come to look back over the Orient, and the 
 interesting scenes through which we have passed, it is 
 with a feeling of deep regret that we determine upon 
 hastening our departure, partly owing to the sudden 
 breaking out of the small-j^ox in Bombay, by which 
 scores, if not hundreds, were dying daily in the city, 
 and partly on account of the necessity of evading the 
 hot and enervating winds of the Red Sea, which com- 
 monly commence as early as the first of March, and con- 
 tinue up to the first of December. 
 
 India is not altogether a land of darkness, and yet 
 the mass of its people are still bowing down to its gods 
 of wood and of stone, or following: the banner of the 
 false Prophet ; but the Sun of Righteousness is lighting 
 
300 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 up tlie dark peaks here and there, and giving promise of 
 the coming day when Christianity shall triumph over 
 superstition and false religion. 
 
 At four o'clock in the afternoon the ship's anchor was 
 raised. Caj^tain Hamilton said that he intended to strike 
 a bee-line across the Indian Ocean for Aden, on the 
 southern coast of Arabia, which was the first land he 
 expected to make. The passengers are all on deck, in 
 good spirits, chatting about home, and taking a farewell 
 view of India. The weather is charming, and not a rip- 
 ple upon the surface of the bay. 
 
 February 20th. — Weather fine, and the ship under 
 full sail running before the fresh northeast monsoon. 
 Thermometer 75°, Course west by south; latitude 18° 
 22' north, longitude 69° 56' east. Distance run, from 
 yesterday 4 p. m. up to 12 m., one hundred and sixty-four 
 miles. 
 
 February 21st. — Weather fine, and the ship running 
 before the monsoon, with all canvas set, which kept the 
 vessel steady, helped us on our course, and supplied us 
 with plenty of fresh air — a great blessing on these hot 
 Eastern seas. Thermometer 76°. Course west bv south ; 
 latitude 17° 54' north, longitude 67° 8' east. Distance 
 run, up to 12 m., one hundred and seventy-four miles. 
 The Erl-King is not as fast as some ships that we have 
 been on, for the reason that she does not carry the mail, 
 and is very heavily laden with merchandise. Captain 
 Hamilton, this afternoon, ordered a tent constructed on 
 the main deck for the accommodation of those who found 
 it too hot to sleep below. 
 
BOMBA Y TO SUEZ. . 3OI 
 
 February 2^d. — The weather is chariinng, the sea 
 like glass, and not a ripple upon the water. The ship 
 is under full sail, and running gracefully before the mon- 
 soon. Thermometer 76°. Course west by south ; lati- 
 tude 17° 14' north, lono-itude 63° 41' west. Distance 
 run, up to 12 m., one hundred and seventy-five miles. 
 
 As the passengers gradually became acquainted, the 
 time passed pleasantly away. We find Captain Hamil- 
 ton a gentlemanly, polite officer, not only looking well 
 to his shi]), l)ut attending faithfully to the comfort and 
 pleasure of his passengers, which cannot be said of all 
 captains on the sea. Every morning and evening he in- 
 spected every part of the ship, from stem to stern, with 
 the keenest eye, to see for himself that everything was 
 in its proper place and every man at his post. The table 
 was plainer than in some ships, but the food was sub- 
 stantial and well cooked, and the waiters obli^ring and 
 ready at every call. 
 
 February 23d. — Weather very fine, and ship under 
 all sail, running before the monsoon. Thermometer 76°. 
 Course west by south ; latitude 16° 23' north, longitude 
 61° 2' east. Distance run, up to 12 m., one hundred and 
 seventy-six miles. 
 
 Fehruary 2Uli. — Weather fine, sea smooth, and the 
 ship, having all sail set, running as usual before the mon- 
 soon. Thermometer 80°. Course west by south ; lati- 
 tude 15° 41' north, longitude 57° 53' east. Distance run, 
 Tip to 12 M., one hundred and eighty- three miles. 
 
 February 2bth. — Weather fine, sea smooth, and ship 
 running before the gentle monsoon. Thermometer 81°. 
 
302 AROUND THE WORLP. 
 
 Course west by south; latitude 15° 11' nortli, longitude 
 55° 5' east. Distance run, up to 12 m., one hundred and 
 seventy-three miles. 
 
 February ^Qtlt. — Weather fine, sea smooth, and ship 
 under full sail. Thermometer 81°. Course west by south ; 
 latitude 14° 21' north, longitude 52° 42' east. Distance 
 run, up to 12 m., one hundred and seventy-four miles. 
 
 This evening the water is as smooth as a mirror, and 
 so deeply impregnated with phosphorescent jets of light 
 that we could almost see to piclv a pin from the ship's 
 deck, or, in other words, completely illuminating sur- 
 rounding objects. During yesterday and to-day the 
 ocean was stre^ved with locusts, which are supposed to 
 have been blown from oif the Arabian coast. To-day 
 we are abreast of the mouth of the great Euphrates 
 Kiver, which has its outlet in the Indian Ocean. 
 
 Fehruary 2'ltli. — Weather charming, and ship under 
 full sail. Thermometer 80°. Course west by south ; lati- 
 tude 13° 42' north, longitude 49° 1' east. Distance I'un, 
 up to 12 M., one hundred and eighty-three miles. This 
 kind of weather, in the latitude of the Indian Ocean^ 
 commonly continues for six months of the year. The 
 monsoons are similar to the trade-winds upon the Amer- 
 ican Pacific coast, and render it quite as pleasant to be 
 on sea as upon the land. 
 
 Fehruary 2Sth. — This morning early we saw many 
 flying-fish skipping over the unruffled sea. The weather 
 still continues fine, and the ship under full sail. Ther- 
 mometer 81°. Course west by south; latitude 12° 55^^ 
 north, longitude 46° 15' east. Distance run, up to 12 m.> 
 
BOMBAY TO SUEZ. 
 
 303 
 
 one hundred and seventy-one miles. Later in the after- 
 noon we are off Aden, sixteen hundred and fifty miles 
 from Bombay. There is nothing very striking in the 
 appearance of the town. It is a mass of rock connected 
 with the mainland by a low, sandy neck, the rock tower- 
 ing up to the height of seventeen hundred and seventy- 
 
 ADEN. 
 
 six feet. It was held by the Portuguese during the 
 height of their power in the East. The Turks captured 
 it in 1538, and held it for three centuries. In 1839, for 
 an outrage committed upon a vessel sailing under Eng- 
 lish colors, the British Government seized the place, 
 strengthened its fortifications, and have kept a large gar- 
 
304 AROUND TEE WORLD. 
 
 rison upon it ever .since. On account of its strength it 
 is called the " Gil)raltar of the East," for its command- 
 ing po;^ition near the Red Sea. It seldom rains at Aden, 
 sometimes three or four years elapsing without a drop 
 falling from the clouds ; even when it rains on the main- 
 land near by, it passes over Aden. To supply the town 
 witli water, the authorities have excavated immense 
 tanks in the solid rock to collect the rainfall when it 
 does occur, and where the precious iluid is preserved for 
 years. Aden is now principally used as a coaling-sta- 
 tion. All ships passing through the Red Sea to and 
 from India stop at Aden to take in coal, w^hich is brought 
 from England in sailing-ships by way of the Cape of 
 Good Hope, and deposited here for the use of her steam- 
 ships. 
 
 February 29th. — We have now entered the Red Sea, 
 ninety miles from Aden. This forenoon we pass, loom- 
 ing up from the sea, the twelve small islands called the 
 Twelve Apostles ; shortly after we go through the straits 
 of Bab-el-Mandeb, or what are called by old sailors the 
 Gate of Tears. We are now having the shores of Arabia 
 on one side and Africa on the other, both of which can 
 be seen with the naked eye. To-day the weather is very 
 tine, and the water perfectly smooth. Our ship is still 
 running before the monsoon, under sail. Thermometer 
 76°. Course north by west; latitude 12° 40' north, lon- 
 gitude 48° 24' east. Distance run, u]) to 12 m., one hun- 
 dred and seventy-two miles. 
 
 This afternoon we passed by the city of Mocha, on 
 the Arabian side. This region forms the great coffee- 
 
BOMBAY TO SUEZ. 305 
 
 growing district, whose fine product is shipped to many- 
 parts of the world. The Arabs also trade in frankin- 
 cense, myrrh, amber, and ostrich-feathers ; they likewise 
 supj)ly the passing ships with fruit, mostly dates, and 
 with mutton of the Berber sheep. This small animal is 
 invariably white, with a black head. 
 
 March \st. — Weather very fine. Last night the ship 
 ran out of the gentle northeast monsoon, which has ac- 
 companied us all the way from India. This forenoon 
 we pass by the Jebel Teir Island, located nearly in the 
 centre of the sea, about midway from either shore. The 
 Ked Sea occupies but a small space upon the maj), and 
 yet it is over thirteen hundred miles in length, and its 
 greatest width is one hundred and ninety miles. To-day 
 the ship's course is west-northwest ; wind southeast, all 
 sail set. Latitude 15° 17' north, longitude 40° 41' east. 
 Distance run, uj) to 12 m., one hundred and eighty-seven 
 miles. 
 
 March 2d. — The Red Sea is by old sailors conceded to 
 be one of the most dangerous in the world to navigate. 
 The water is of great depth, but rocks and islands are 
 scattered through it, and coral-reefs abound, which sel- 
 dom lift their heads above the waves to warn the sailor 
 of his danger. Ships are often lost in tliick weather by 
 the unexpected changes of currents. The countries on 
 both sides of the sea are inhabited by wild and barbar- 
 ous people. There is now a fearful war raging in 
 Abyssinia, on the African coast, between the Egyptians 
 and Abyssinians. To-day the weather is clear. Ther- 
 mometer 80°. Course west-northwest ; latitude 17° 42' 
 
30(3 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 nortli, longitude 39° 52' east. Distance run, up to 12 m.,, 
 one hundred and seventy-five miles. 
 
 March 3d. — Weather clear, wind blowing a gale from 
 northw^est. Thermometer 76°. Course west-northwest ; 
 latitude 19° 27' north, longitude 39° 2' east. Distance 
 run, up to 12 m., one hundred and fifteen miles. The gale 
 became so terrific that Captain Hamilton ordered the 
 sailors aloft to send the light spars and topsail-yards 
 upon deck, in order to relieve the laboring ship. We 
 were not, however, without w^arning of this gale, for the 
 captain said, some two or three days ago, when the 
 weather w^as fine, that we should encounter a succession 
 of gales, and that we had better prej)are for the event. 
 It is a most singular phenomenon, that these gales on 
 the Red Sea should be so res^ular in their course. It 
 commonly blows at this place a gale from two distinctly 
 opposite points, both up and down the sea, at the same 
 time, during the greater part of the year, leaving an 
 intermediate space of nearly a dead calm for one hun- 
 dred miles between the two currents of wind. Sailing- 
 ships are scarcely ever seen on this sea, native crafts 
 excepted, and these are often utterly lost, or wrecked. 
 
 March \th. — The gale continued all through last 
 night, and to-day we occasionally ship a heavy sea, wash- 
 ing the decks from stem to stern ; but the w^eather over- 
 head is perfectly clear, and scarcely a cloud to be seen. 
 Thermometer 76°. Course west-nortlnvest ; latitude 21° 
 34' north, longitude 37° 46' east. Distance run, up to 
 12 M., one hundred and thirty-six miles. 
 
 March 5th. — Last night we left the gale astern ; to- 
 
BOMBAY TO SUEZ. 3O7 
 
 day the weather is delightful, with little or no wind. 
 The passengers are all in high glee and full of life, as is 
 always the case at sea after having a gale of wind. 
 Thermometer 76°. Ship's course west-northwest; lati- 
 tude 21° 34' north, longitude 37° 46' east. Distance 
 run, up to 12 m,, one hundred and sixty-six miles. 
 
 March Qth. — ^To-day we approach the opposite wind, 
 but it is fair, and not as terrific as the last gale, which 
 was ahead ; tlie weather, nevertheless, is very fine. Ther- 
 mometer 75°. Course west-northwest; latitude 26° 19' 
 north, longitude 34° 06' east. Distance run, up to 12 m., 
 one hundred and fifty-five miles. Captain Hamilton 
 runs the ship at a slo^v rate, lest the coal may fall short 
 before reaching Suez. Last night a large ball of fire was 
 seen by the ofiicers and sailors of the ship to fall from 
 the heavens into the sea, which incident furnished a to23ic 
 of conversation for the passengers during the day. 
 
 Marcli ^th. — Weather fine, sea smooth. Thermometer 
 75°. Course west-northwest ; latitude 28° 3' north, loufji- 
 tude33° 5' east. Distance run, u]^ to 12 m., one hundred 
 and sixty-four miles. We have now eighty-five miles to 
 make to I'each Suez. At mid-day we are abreast of 
 Mount Sinai, which peak can be seen through a good 
 glass. It was at the base of this mount that the Israelites 
 pitched their tents when on their journey into the prom- 
 ised land, and where Moses went up into the mount and 
 procured the tables of stone, with the Ten Command- 
 ments written thereon, for the government of the chib 
 dren of Israel, by Him who rules the universe. 
 
 March Sth. — This morning we pass over the tracks 
 
308 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 upon the Red Sea where the Israelites are supposed to 
 have crossed. There is no doubt in reg-ard to the route 
 by which they came from Succoth to the sea. It is 
 clearly defined by the general features of the countiy — 
 a precipitous mountain-range forming a deep ravine, 
 stretching from the sea in a westerly direction, from 
 which they could not diverge. Pharaoh and his host 
 were in their rear, and they had fled until they could go 
 no farther — a mountain-wall was on one side, and the 
 deep sea on the other. At the j^oint to which I refer 
 the Red Sea must be from five to six miles in width, 
 and of great depth, for our ship, drawing twenty-two feet 
 of water, passed over the supposed track. The Egyptians 
 pursuing the Israelites went after them into the midst 
 of the sea, even all Pharaoh's horses, his chariots and his 
 horsemen. It was in the midst of the very waves that 
 they proposed to turn back, when they found that the 
 Lord was fio-htins: for the Israelites and as-ainst them- 
 selves. They accordingly turned and fled ; but when 
 the sea fell from its walls and returned to its bed, of the 
 vast army that had gone into it there remained not so 
 much as one of them. 
 
 Doubtless, the drying up of the waters of the Red 
 Sea was not effected alone by the strong east wind, for 
 the children of Israel went into the bed of the sea upon 
 dry ground, and the waters were a wall unto them on 
 their right and on their left. The Holy Scriptures show 
 that it was a sublime miracle. If the Israelites had 
 taken a more northerly route, they could have passed 
 around the head of the Red Sea over dry ground, and it 
 
BOMBAY TO SUEZ. 309 
 
 would not have taken them more than a day's march to 
 have brought them opposite to the point where they did 
 cross. And they could have also traveled over the 
 sandy desert into Palestine or the promised land in forty 
 days instead of forty years, but this short route was not 
 consistent with the divine will ; neither would their 
 enemies, the Egyptians, in that case, have been destroyed 
 by the angry and rushing waters of the Red Sea if the 
 Israelites had taken their own way. They had no choice 
 as to the course which they should take, for they were 
 guided and ruled over by a higher power — by Him who 
 led them on by a pillar of cloud by day, and a pillar of 
 fire by night. 
 
 About nine o'clock this morning our ship drops her 
 anchor near the mouth of the Su6z Canal, through which 
 she is to pass en route for England, and by her I sent 
 one of my heavy trunks, to be left in Liverpool, thus 
 saving both the expense and trouble of carriage across 
 the Continent. 
 
 Previous to leaving the ship, the passengers joined in 
 presenting Captain Hamilton a letter, expressing their 
 sympathy and kindly regard for the marked attention 
 and gentlemanly treatment received at his hands dur- 
 ing the pleasant voyage of sixteen days from India to 
 Egypt. 
 
 We are landed by the natives upon the custom-house 
 dock, where we supposed that our trunks would be 
 turned inside out by the authorities ; but, instead of an 
 examination, the officer in charge requested backshish. 
 One of the party gave a rupee, and we passed through 
 
310 AROUND TEE WORLD. 
 
 and put up at tlie Suez Hotel ; price for board eighty 
 piasters per day, which is equal to four dollars of our 
 currency. The piaster is the Egyptian standard of 
 money ; one piaster is equal in value to five cents Ameri- 
 can coin. 
 
CHAPTEK XXX. 
 
 EGYPT. 
 
 Suez, like Aden, presents nothing very striking to 
 the tourist. The city is situated on a low, sandy j)lain, 
 and for some cause or other they scarcely ever have any 
 rainfall. A stream of fresh water has been brought 
 through the desert from the Xile, which supplies the 
 most pressing wants of the town, which is said to con- 
 tain thirty thousand inhabitants. The houses are purely 
 Oriental, and not very inviting ; they are one story high, 
 and built of clay. The town is surrounded on all sides 
 by the sandy desert, and whatever is consumed in the 
 place is brought from abroad. The Suez Canal Com- 
 pany has made a safe harbor here with convenient 
 wharves, used chiefly by ships coming and going through 
 the canal, and by the railroad company. 
 
 The Suez Canal is one of the chief improvements in 
 the East, opening up a great highway of commerce be- 
 tween Europe and Asia, and bringing the two continents 
 into closer connection with each other. The canal is 
 €ighty-seven miles in length, built over the desert, con- 
 sisting of a level, sandy plain through a chain of small 
 lagoons, having its terminus at Port Said, u2:)on the 
 Mediterranean, at one end, and Suez, on the Red Sea, at 
 the other. The canal has an average width of seventy- 
 
312 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 two feet at the bottom, and two Inmdred feet at the 
 surface, with a depth of twenty-six feet ; the water in 
 the two seas is on the same level, and the canal has no 
 locks. Steamships pay two dollars per ton, according to 
 their registers, for the privilege of passing through. 
 There are few if any sailing-ships which make the pas- 
 sage, for the reason that the tariif is higher than they 
 can aiford to pay, and the navigation of the Red Sea is 
 dangerous for sailing-vessels ; hence sailing-ships bound 
 to the Indies go around by the way of the Cape of 
 Good Hope. 
 
 The Suez Canal was not altogether a ncAv idea on the 
 part of its modern projectors. The ancient Egyptians, 
 it is believed, had some sort of communication by water 
 across the isthmus. In 1798, Napoleon I., then com- 
 manding the French expedition to Egypt, proposed 
 opening a ship-canal through the same route. A com- 
 mission appointed to make the survey reported that the 
 Ked Sea was thirty feet lower than the Mediterranean. 
 This was considered a fatal objection, and the enterprise 
 was abandoned. But, when the survey was made in 
 1830 for the opening of the canal, they found the two 
 seas on the same level. 
 
 March 9th. — ^This morning we leave by the Egyptian 
 8 A. M. train en route for Cairo ; distance one hundred 
 and eighty miles; fare for each person three hundred 
 and fifty piasters. We ride along the margin of the 
 Suez Canal some forty miles, till we come to Ismailia, 
 which town sprung suddenly into existence by the touch 
 of the canal. After the completion of the canal the 
 
EGYPT. 313 
 
 kliedive appointed a day for a celebration of tlie great 
 enterprise. He invited Napoleon, tlie imperial patron 
 of the work, and tlie empress, and all tlie kings and 
 queens and princes of the world, to come to Ismailia, 
 where was given a grand entertainment. Since then 
 Ismailia has become of considerable note, and is building 
 up rapidly. After leaving Ismailia we struck out into 
 the desert, and for several hours traversed the sandy 
 waste, forming a picture of desolation. Now and then 
 we came upon some weary travelers, who with camels 
 or donkeys were dragging their way through the lonely 
 desert upon some foi'eign pilgrimage. Early in the after- 
 noon we approached the valley of the Nile, on the same 
 route which Abraham took when he went into Egypt 
 to escape the threatened famine, and by which the sons 
 of Jacob went down to buy corn. It is also the section 
 of country in which the Israelites dwelt four hundred 
 and thirty years. This plain is rich in fertility, and 
 dotted with small towns and cities. The foundations 
 upon which these towns are built are raised, by artificial 
 earth, several feet above the level of the country, for 
 protection against the rise and inundation of the river 
 Nile, which commonly occurs in the autumn of every 
 year. These towns are chiefly inhabited by farmers and 
 shepherds. They still hold to the traditions spoken of 
 in the Bible ; they have no barns in which to store their 
 crops, but do their thrashing in the "field. We caught 
 sight of the great Pyi'amids, at least forty miles distant, 
 with all their gigantic majesty looming up to the clouds. 
 They may well be ranked among the great wonders of 
 
 21 
 
314 
 
 AROUND TEE WORLD. 
 
 the world. For a while we almost forgot that we were 
 travelers from the New World, and fell to meditating 
 upon the land in which we found ourselves — upon tlie 
 Pharaohs and the j)atriarchs — until warned hy the 
 
 CAIRO. 
 
 steam- whistle that we had arrived in the ancient city of 
 Cairo, where we were immediately besieged by a host 
 of hotel-runners, dragomen, crowds of donkeys and don- 
 key-boys, porters, and beggars, reminding us of the 
 Egyptian plagues. But the beggars are not now as 
 
EGTPT. 3]^ 5 
 
 prevalent as when I was here eight years ago ; then they 
 were like the frogs of the aucient 2:>lague which ascended 
 into the very bedchambers. Finally, among the dense 
 crowd, we at length succeeded in getting a carriage, and 
 rode to Sheplieard's Hotel, where we arrived just before 
 sunset; board sixty piasters a day. This hotel is the 
 best-kept house in Cairo. 
 
 The jjopulation of Egypt is reputed to be eight mill- 
 ions, composed chieily of two classes. The most influ- 
 ential class consists of immigrants, or sojourners, from 
 Europe. They lead in commerce, banking, and manu- 
 factures, and retain, by virtue of treaties between the 
 sultan and Christian Euroj^ean countries, their respective 
 nationalities and allegiance. They are not only exempt 
 from the judicial authority of the Egyptian Government, 
 but also from taxation. Thus they constitute a govern- 
 ing class independent of the government itself. The 
 native class is of a mixed race. A small portion are 
 Copts, descendants of the ancient Egyptians. Those 
 li\^ng near, and on the Mediterranean coast, are chiefly 
 of Arabian extraction and are mostly Mohammedans. 
 Besides these, there are Nubians, Abyssinians, and many 
 other African races. 
 
 Over all these native races the khedive exercises ab- 
 solute power. He taxes at his will, and confiscates at 
 his pleasure. The majority of his subjects are sincere 
 and bigoted in their religious faith. The khedive's ad- 
 ministration is a personal one ; every transaction of the 
 government is conducted with his personal knowledge 
 and by his direction, and without his sanction nothing 
 
316 ABOUND THE WORLD. 
 
 can be done. It is due to the khedive to say tliat his 
 administration is successful, and even popular. He has 
 done much for the improvement of Cairo, by pulling' 
 down old buildings, and erecting more substantial and 
 modern ones in their stead ; widening and straightening 
 the streets, etc. He has already extended the Alexan- 
 dria &o Cairo Railroad several hundred miles toward 
 Upper Egypt, and intends to carry it to the Soudan, the 
 extreme southern province of his dominions. He is indi- 
 vidually the largest land-proprietor and agriculturist in 
 Egypt. I am informed that he owns one-iifth of the 
 tillable land of the country, and is reputed to be im- 
 mensely wealthy. What is more marvelous is, that he 
 superintends his personal estate, as well as his public 
 aifairs. 
 
 Khedive is, in modern Egypt, the title for which the 
 Europeans use the word viceroy. The present khedive 
 is a son of the eminent Ibrahim Pasha, and grandson 
 of Mehemet Ali. He succeeded his uncle. Said Pasha^ 
 in 1863, and is now about sixty years old. By a treaty 
 which he made some few years ago with the sultan, the 
 succession is confirmed in his family in a direct line. He 
 was educated in France, speaks both English and French 
 fluently, and his appearance is decidedl}' European. He 
 has several large and most magnificent palaces, and lives 
 in great splendor. Every day we saw him, accompanied 
 by some of the members of his family, riding past our 
 hotel. 
 
 March 10th. — The history of Egypt extends back to 
 a period three or four thousand years before the birth of 
 
EGYPT. 31 7^ 
 
 Clirist, and many of its monuments are tlie oldest human 
 handiwork existing in the world. It was a powerful and 
 wealthy kingdom in the days of Joseph. Moses was 
 •educated in its schools, in order to fit him for the guid- 
 ance of the Jewish people into the promised land. Egypt 
 is conceded to have been the cradle of the world's civili- 
 zation; Greece derived its arts and its sciences from 
 lEgypt. She also taught imperial Rome ; and from Rome 
 the waves of knowledge spread all over Western Europe. 
 But Egypt, like Greece and Rome, to-day does not enjoy 
 that high degree of civilization which she did centuries 
 ago. She has also lost that polished literature, and the 
 arts and sciences practised by her forefathers, and her 
 people have become a benighted race. 
 
 March 11th, — To-day we ride out to the citadel, not 
 so much to see the structure itself, or the grand mosque, 
 as for the panoramic view of the city and the valley of 
 the Nile, which it commands. This magnificent sight 
 alone would pay a traveler for coming to this far-off 
 country, even if he should see nothing else. As we stand 
 ujDou this bold parapet, the whole of Cairo, both ancient 
 and modern, lies at our feet. On the borders of the city 
 flows the Nile, winding its way through the lovely valley 
 until lost in the distance, and containing the little island 
 of Rhoda, upon whose borders Moses was found in the 
 bulrushes by the king's daughter. The Pyramids and 
 the Sphinx, which are but a few miles off, sit now, as 
 they did forty or fifty centuries ago, in silent majesty. 
 
 Although the citadel has been rendered unreliable as 
 a fortress, it very justly excites admiration. Like those 
 
318 AROUND TEE WORLD. 
 
 in India whicli we saw, it is a combination of fortifica- 
 tions, palaces, and mosques. It stands on a bluff three 
 "hundred feet above the Nile. A well, whicli supplies 
 water to the citadel, is an object of much curiosity and 
 interest. It was excavated by Saladin, and is com- 
 monly known as Joseph's Well. It is two hundred and 
 seventy feet deep, and consists of two stories or cham- 
 bers ; the water is raised from the bottom, one hundred 
 and twenty feet, into the first chamber, worked by men 
 stationed at the bottom, thence it is brought to the top 
 of the well by another mechanical process. A winding- 
 staircase leads from top to bottom. 
 
 In the citadel is the court in which the Mamelukes 
 were treacherously massacred, by order of Mehemet Ali^ 
 in 1811. Here stands one of the khedive's numerous 
 palaces, occupied by one of the princes. But the most 
 imposing modern structure in the citadel is the mosque 
 of Mehemet Ali. This mosque, by reason of its advan- 
 tageous site, its grand dimensions, and its lofty dome and 
 minarets, is the most conspicuous and admired object in 
 Cairo. It is constructed, both within and without, in- 
 cluding walls, columns, and dome, of white alabaster. 
 The tomb in which the remains of Mehemet Ali rest is 
 very beautiful ; the sarcophagus is of alabaster, covered 
 with rich tapestry. 
 
 The Jews, in the time of the Pharaohs, found Egypt 
 a storehouse of corn; the Greeks and Romans, at a later 
 period, found it a storehouse of monuments and relics, and 
 eagerly carried them away. The spoils of Egypt are seen 
 in Rome, Naples, Paris, Berlin, Constantinople, Amster- 
 
EGYPT. 319 
 
 dam, and even in London. But to-day we iind Egypt in 
 a state of transition, gradually emergiDg from a condition 
 of darkness into a more enlightened civilization. 
 
 March 12th. — To-day we attend the Presbyterian 
 Mission church ; preaching in Arabic by Dr. Lansing. 
 The doctor informed us that the mission-work in Cairo 
 was greatly on the increase. There are now" three thou- 
 sand nominal Christians, and six hundred communicants, 
 in all Egypt. During the last five years, the number 
 has more than doubled. 
 
 March \?>tli. — The camel and donkey do the work of 
 vehicles in all parts of Egypt, carrying merchandise and 
 products — even sacks of brick, stone, earth, and timber — 
 upon their backs. When the camel is to receive his 
 load, he is instructed to f:dl upon his knees, and, when 
 loaded, to rise, go to his place of destination, and again 
 kneel until his load is discharged. When a camel is 
 loaded, he will cry, signifying that he has as much bur- 
 den as he can carry. The donkey is also a very useful 
 animal, and can carry as large loads on his back as one 
 of our ordinary horses ; yet, he is not one-quarter the 
 size of a horse. But, since Cairo and Alexandria have 
 become more modernized, business -men have brought 
 into use English horses and carts, with which they can 
 do more than doul)le the work formerly accomplished. 
 The streets are filled with saddled donkeys going hither 
 and thither, led by donkey -boys, soliciting strangers to 
 ride. Here, as in India, caravans are numerous. More 
 than a hundred camels may sometimes be seen on the 
 desert, eitlier loaded with pilgrims — consisting of men, 
 
320 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 women, and cliildren — or merchandise. It is said that 
 it is not uncommon for one train to brino; in enouo-h cot- 
 ton, sugar, tobacco, or corn, to load an ordinary sailing- 
 ship, and they are often from four to six weeks on their 
 jonrney. It is a most interesting sight to see a caravan 
 in the distance, esj^ecially crossing the desert; they re- 
 semble a line of merchant-ships more than anything else. 
 The pyramids may well be classed with the great 
 wonders of the world. Underneath these monuments 
 lies the dust of Egypt's early kings. They are immense 
 structures, that of Cheops measuring seven hundred and 
 sixty-four feet at its base, and gradually tapering up 
 to the height of four hundred and eighty feet. They 
 have doubtless cost more to build than the ancient city 
 of Cairo, which contains over four hundred thousand in- 
 hal)itants. Two of the largest of them stand about one- 
 eighth of a mile apart. The stone of which they are 
 built is supposed to have been brought from Thebes, 
 some six hundred miles up the Nile. Some of the larger 
 blocks are twenty feet long, and from five to six feet 
 thick. I saw an estimate, made by a scientific gentle- 
 man, which shows that there is stone enough in these 
 two pyramids to build a wall, four feet high and eight 
 inches thick, reachino; from New Yoik to San Francisco ! 
 The natives are at a loss to know how these immense 
 blocks of stone were transported from such a great dis- 
 tance without the use of machinery and wheel-carriaoes, 
 and say that the modern inhabitants are incomj)etent, 
 and have not the knowledge necessary, to enable them 
 to erect such stupendous structures at the present day 
 
EGYPT. 
 
 321 
 
 These two pyramids are situated about five miles from, 
 tlie city of Cairo, on the very edge of the Great Sahara 
 Desert, which is covered with sand-hills. When the wind 
 blows hard it is impossible to see, on account of the 
 dense clouds of sand, which shift and roll up like the 
 
 THE tPHLNX. 
 
 waves of the ocean. It requires several weeks of hard 
 labor for a caravan of camels to cross over this vast 
 desert, and during a heavy gale of wind they are com- 
 pelled to pitch their tents and remain until it abates. 
 I am informed that, after a gale, they have often to 
 
322 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 excavate their way out from the sand-banks that have 
 formed over their tents during its continuance. 
 
 The Sphinx is situated within a few hundred feet of 
 the pyramids, and is a colossal figure hewed out of the 
 solid rock, excepting the fore-paws, which have been 
 attached ; it is an enormous monster with gigantic arms, 
 between which w'as formerly held a miniature temple, 
 with a flight of steps to approach it. In former times 
 its head bore either the royal helmet, or the ram's-horns. 
 It is sixty-three feet high, its human-shaped head twelve 
 feet long, the nose four feet long, and the mouth two feet, 
 wide. It is conceded by many to be the most wonder- 
 ful of the Egyptian monuments, and the more I looked 
 at it, the more striking it appeared. Most people never 
 weary in gazing upon its human form. When and for 
 what purpose this vast image was constructed, no one can 
 give a satisfactory account. 
 
 The Mohammedans are very devout in their mode of 
 worship. They have no altars in their mosques ; they 
 worship no graven images, nor pictures of any kind. 
 Before entering their places of worship, it is the custom 
 to wash their hands and feet ; others strip off* and wash 
 their entire bodies, in a fountain of water in an outer 
 court kept for that purpose. When they enter the 
 mosque, they bow again and again, some ten or twelve 
 times, and at length prostrate their bodies upon the mar- 
 ble floor with their faces down, and, after a few minutes 
 of silent prayer, rise upon their feet, make as many genu- 
 flections as at first, and leave the mosque. They have as 
 much regard for, and keep Friday as saci'edly, as we do 
 
EGYPT. 32S 
 
 the Christian sabbath. They believe in Christ — that he 
 did exist — and that he was a great prophet, even greater 
 than Moses, but do not look upon him as the Saviour 
 of the world. Instead of accepting Christ, they recognize 
 Mohammed as their prophet and mediator. A man is 
 stationed at the entrance to the mosque, whose duty it 
 is to furnish visitors with slippers to put on their feet 
 lest they defile the floor. 
 
 The Arabians are the descendants of Ishmael, and 
 half-brothers of the Jews. Abraham had two sons — 
 the first-born, Ishmael, by Hagar, an Egyptian hand- 
 maiden ; the second son, Isaac, by Sarah, his wife — both 
 of whom received the blessing, with the j^romise that 
 each should become a great nation. Hence they became 
 two distinct peoples, and both claim Abraham as their 
 father, and both races also reject Christ as the Saviour 
 of the world. While the Je\YS number only about four 
 million, the Arabs and their various offshoots comprise 
 some ten or fifteen million. 
 
 Almost every spot of ground in and around Cairo is 
 classic to the Christian world. This is the land in which 
 Joseph ruled over the Egyptians; this is the land in 
 which the sons of Jacob came to buy corn ; this is the 
 land in which Jacob and his descendants dwelt four hun- 
 dred and thirty years ; this is also the land into which. 
 Joseph and Mary fled with the infant Jesus, in order to 
 escape the wrath of King Herod of Judea. When Jacob 
 entered Egypt his family only consisted of seventy souls ; 
 when they took their departure, after the lapse of four 
 hundred and thirty years, they had increased to six hun- 
 
324 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 dred thousand men, besides the women and children and 
 a mixed multitude who went out with them ; doubtless 
 the entire nation amounted in all to over a million. It 
 must have been a grand sight to those who witnessed 
 the exodus of this large concourse of people marching 
 on foot, through the country, on their way back to the 
 promised land. As I gazed over the large, picturesque, 
 and fertile plain, dotted with the royal palm, and other 
 scattering Oriental trees, the general topography and 
 aspect of the country so clearly defined by the sacred 
 Scrij^ttures, I could almost imagine that I saw the great 
 host on their march, the pillar of cloud leading them on 
 by day, and the heavy curtain hung up by the hand of 
 God to 2^rotect them from their pursuers by night. 
 
 This morning we took our departure from Cairo by 
 the eight o'clock train for Alexandria ; distance one hun- 
 dred and twenty miles, fare twenty-five piasters each. 
 We rode the greater part of the way along the margin 
 of the Nile, the country rich in fertility and dotted with 
 towns and hamlets. There are no forests, and but few 
 groves, except of the date-palm, and orange and lemon 
 trees, with an occasional sycamore, acacia, or mulberry- 
 tree. The chief fruits are the date, grape, fig, pome- 
 granate, banana, many kinds of melons, and the olive ; 
 the vegetables are of many kinds and excellent quality, 
 forming the principal food of the common people. The 
 most important field-products are wheat, corn, cotton, 
 sugar-cane, tobacco, barley, millet, and flax. The cattle 
 that we saw were in excellent condition ; but the camels, 
 which make long journeys in crossing the deserts, seemed 
 
EGYPT. 
 
 325 
 
 ill fed and badly kept. The birds of Egypt are not re- 
 markable for beauty of plumage- — in so open a country 
 this is natural ; among the birds of prey, the most com- 
 mon are of the scavenger class, such as the vulture and 
 kite. Among the reptiles are crocodiles, frogs, snakes, 
 
 A WOMAN ON THE NILE. 
 
 etc. ; the scorpion is found in the desert. Among de- 
 structive insects are locusts, which sometimes come upon 
 the cultivated land in a cloud. Fleas are also prevalent ; 
 they not only annoyed us in the streets, but follovred us 
 to the hotels, and even besieged the bedchambers. 
 
 The inundation of the Nile, which commonly occurs 
 
^26 AROUND TEE WORLD. ^ 
 
 once a year, fertilizes and sustains the country and makes 
 the river its chief blessing, a very slight overflow or 
 failure of risino- beino- the cause of famine. There is 
 scarcely a country in the world where famine has raged 
 so terribly, at different times, as in the land of Egypt. 
 In the year 1199, in consequence of the great inunda- 
 tion, a terrible famine ensued, accompanied by indescrib- 
 able enormities. Human flesh was a common article 
 of food; man-catching became a regular business; and 
 the greater part of the poj)ulation were swept away by 
 famine and disease. Even in the time of Joseph, the 
 famine continued unabated for seven years, all the money 
 of the inhabitants being spent in purchasing corn ; they 
 also parted with their horses, flocks, and horned cattle, 
 and the very land which they cultivated was made over 
 to the sovereio;n, in consideration of their receivino- from 
 the j^ublic stores a supply of food. The people were na 
 longer the proj^rietors, but mere cultivators of the soil. 
 The soverei2:n became the freeholder of the entire land 
 in the kingdom, and his subjects were to pay him a fifth 
 jDart of the produce by way of rent for the lands which 
 they occupied (excepting those held by the priests, which 
 were not sold), and eat the portion of food which 
 Pharaoh gave them. It 'seldom rains in Egypt, except- 
 ing at the time of the equinoxes, when the country is 
 inundated like India during the overflow of the Ganges, 
 Indus, and other large rivers. During the dry seasons 
 the people resort to artificial irrigation. As we ride 
 along, wells may be seen scattered in every direction 
 over the face of the country, both men and women being 
 
EGYPT. 32^ 
 
 engaged in drawing water to put on tlie land. We ar- 
 rive in Alexandria at 1 p. m., Laving been five hours on 
 our passage from Cairo, and take board in tlie Hotel 
 de I'Europe at sixty 2:>iasters a day. 
 
 The city of Alexandi'ia is situated at the mouth of 
 the Nile, facing the Mediterranean Sea, and contains 
 about two hundred and fifty thousand inhabitants. It 
 was founded by Alexander the Great, 332 b. c. The 
 people are a mixed race, having representatives from 
 almost every nation. They are of a dark copper-color, 
 such as we have seen in Japan, China, and India. The 
 women, when in the street, wear a close white veil with 
 two small holes in front, of the size of a penny, to look 
 through ; and were it not for the veils it would be dif- 
 ficult to distinguish the men from the women, their dress 
 is so very similar. 
 
 Alexandria is a famous seaport for all Egypt. When 
 I was here in 1867 the streets were not paved, and it 
 was decidedly the most filthy city that I had ever wit- 
 nessed ; but since then many of the narrow streets have 
 been both widened and straightened, and paved with, 
 square blocks of stone, which give the city a fine appear- 
 ance. The more distinctively Oriental part, however, 
 remains with the same narrow streets, excepting that 
 ttey have been paved, and are kept cleaner than for- 
 merly. Our hotel fronts on the great public square, 
 ^hich on either side is lined with fine residences in the 
 European style. It seems as if we had already entered 
 Europe, and left Egypt behind us. A throng of fashion- 
 ably-dressed Europeans are promenading up and down 
 
328 
 
 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 POMPET's FIIiLAB. 
 
 tlie square ; and Frencli and Englisli equipages are seen 
 driving by. The khedive lias a handsome palace here, 
 in which he resides during his short sojourn in Alex- 
 andria. This is the meeting-point of the East and West, 
 of the old and new civilizations. Here are camels, don- 
 keys, dock-yards, arsenals, steam-engines, factories, mills, 
 and many other modern improvements, indicating that 
 the old order of things has changed, and given way to 
 the new. The Oriental part of the town abounds with 
 
EGYPT. 329 
 
 camels, goats, dogs, and Egyptian donkeys, the latter 
 being used for carrying people and merchandise through 
 the streets, and upon short jaunts, and the camels are 
 employed in long journeys, for the transportation of mer- 
 chandise and produce across the desert. 
 
 Pomj)ey's Pillar is one of the attractive sights, erected 
 1495 B. c. ; it stands on a dreary and solitary mound, 
 which overlooks the lake and the modern city. It is a 
 noble Corinthian column ; the fluted shaft, which is 
 formed of one piece of red granite, is seventy-three feet 
 high, the circumference at the base is twenty-one feet, 
 gradually diminishing to the top. At the eastern ex- 
 tremity of the city, in an opposite dii'ection, stands Cleo- 
 patra's Needle, formed of one block of stone, seventy 
 feet high. Another needle, of the same size and form as 
 the first, lies upon the ground partly covered with sand. 
 It was presented to the British Government by Mehemet 
 Ali in 1820, Init the vast expense prevented its removal. 
 
 Alexander the Great, with his Macedonians, entered 
 and conquered the country 332 b. c. After him came 
 the Greek dynasty, who ruled Egypt till it became a 
 Koraan province under Augustus Caesar, 30 b. c. It was 
 overrun by the Saracens a. d 640, and became a Turkish 
 province in 1517. From 1805 to 1849 Mehemet Ali was 
 23asha and Viceroy of Egypt ; and it is now governed by 
 the khedive, Ismail Pasha. 
 
 The Scriptures have been strikingly fulfilled in re- 
 gard to Egypt. From the second Persian conquest, more 
 than two thousand years ago, until now, not a single 
 native ruler has occupied the throne of Egypt. 
 
 22 
 
CHAPTER XXXI. 
 
 IVIEDITEKEANEAN SEA. 
 
 March \Uh. — At nine o'clock this morning we take 
 passage on board the French steamship Erymanthe, for 
 Naples; distance about a thousand miles, fare two hun- 
 dred and se\^enty-five francs apiece. Alexandria is one 
 of the principal seaports bordering on the Mediterranean. 
 As we are leaving the port we see flags floating to the 
 breeze from the numerous mast-heads, representing al- 
 most every nationality, among them the stars and stripes 
 of our own country. There are several lines of ships 
 sailing almost daily to all parts of the Levant. 'Palestine 
 may be reached twice a week, of which Jaifa, three hun- 
 dred and twelve miles distant, is the chief port for tour- 
 ists to the Holy Land ; time twenty-four hours. I hav- 
 ing visited Syria and Palestine on a previous tour, we 
 therefore thought it best to go direct to Italy. 
 
 March l^th. — Our ship is filled with passengers of 
 all nationalities — English, Americans, French, Italians, 
 Spaniards, Egyptians, and Arabs — the greater part of 
 whom are first-class people, very polite and graceful in 
 their movements, especially the ladies. But the Mediter- 
 ranean is not as graceful in its movements as some of the 
 Eastern seas which we have traversed. It generally 
 takes one or two days to get used to the sea and to one 
 
MEDITERRANEAN SEA. 331 
 
 another, and to learn each other's histories, when little 
 groups begin to form ; distinct nationalities commonly 
 flock together, s])ending an hour or two either on deck 
 or in the saloon, 
 
 March 16^A. — This morning, and during the greater 
 part of the forenoon, we sailed along the island of Crete, 
 commonly called Candia. This is one of the large 
 islands of the Mediterranean, it being one hundred and 
 sixty miles in length, and iifty in its greatest breadth, 
 Christianity was introduced into this island by the 
 apostle Paul, who left Titus here as its minister to carry 
 on the work which he had begun. I find, by referring to 
 my log, that thus far we have traveled by sea and land 
 about twenty-one thousand and seventy miles, of which 
 sixty-five hundred and thirty were over land, and four- 
 teen thousand five hundred and forty by sea ; the distance 
 in a straight line would have been much shorter, but we 
 have made detours both up and down as well as around 
 the world, all the way in search of the far West, and we 
 have no knowledge at hand to show how much farther 
 we have to travel before reaching its culminating point. 
 Neither shall we, in going round the world, be able to 
 recover the 20th of last October, which we virtually 
 leaped over and lost from the calendar, as if we had not 
 lived it, although by the canceled day we really lost no 
 time from life's history. I am told, if we should return 
 to America by the way we came, at the same spot upon 
 the Pacific Ocean, we should recover the day. This is a 
 ^scientific riddle, however, for scholars to explain, and it 
 might form a feature for some future school examinations^ 
 
332 AROUND TEE WORLD. 
 
 March Vlth. — This afternoon we pass through the 
 strait of Messina, two miles in width — the beautiful 
 island of Sicily on one side, and the coast of the Italian 
 Peninsula on the other. Here we see the volcano Mount 
 Etna, looming u}) into the clouds in all its majesty, its 
 summit covered with snow, while at the base vegetation 
 is in bloom. It was not in eruption, although we could 
 see a small volume of smoke at intervals issuing from its 
 peak. Mount Etna is ten thousand eight hundred and 
 seventy-two feet above the sea-level, and its base is 
 twenty miles in circumference. 
 
 Sicily is the largest, finest, most fruitful, and most 
 celebrated island in the Mediterranean. Its greatest 
 length is about one hundred and eighty miles, by one 
 hundred in its greatest breadth. It was in ancient times 
 the seat of many flourishing Greek colonies, and the pre- 
 sumption is that its population then was double what it 
 is at the present time. It has undergone many bloody 
 revolutions. The Carthaginians once held it ; then the 
 Komans ; afterward the Goths ; then the Saracens, and 
 again the Normans ; afterward the French ; and now it 
 is held and governed by Victor Emmanuel of Italy. 
 Messina, situated on the strait, is the chief city of the 
 island, and is a prominent seaport for the shipment of 
 oranges and other fruits to England and the United 
 States. During the early part of the evening we passed 
 by the volcano Stromboli, which is situated upon a small 
 island, resembling a sugar-loaf. Earthquakes are of fre- 
 quent occurrence upon the islands of the Mediterranean^ 
 but the climate is pure and highly salubrious. 
 
MEDITERRANEAN SEA. 333 
 
 March IStli. — At 1 p. m. we arrived at Naples, having 
 been four days and four hours on our j^assage from 
 Egypt. After our luggage had undergone a slight ex- 
 amination by the custom-house authorities, we rode to 
 the Hotel des Etrangers, getting board at ten lire per day 
 each. A lira is equal to nineteen and one-fifth cents of 
 American coin, and is the standard of value of Italy. 
 
CHAPTEK XXXII. 
 
 ITALY : NAPLES, EOME, PISA, GENOA, TURIN. 
 
 The city of Naples is very handsomely situated on 
 the side of a mountain, sloping gradually down to the 
 Mediterranean Sea, winding itself round a spacious and 
 l)eautiful bay, and contains a population of five hundred 
 thousand. It is a very ancient city, founded by the 
 people of Cumse, a colony from Greece, wbo gradually 
 spread themselves round tlie bay of Naples, and it was 
 named from this circumstance Neopolis, or the " New 
 City." It was also called Parthenope, from its being the 
 burial-place of one of the sirens of that name. Naples^ 
 was of old, as it is now, a chosen seat of pleasure. Its. 
 hot baths w^ere not surpassed by any ; and the number 
 and excellence of its theatres and other j^laces of amuse- 
 ment, its matchless scenery, the mildness of its climate,, 
 and the luxury and effeminacy of its inhabitants, made 
 it a favorite retreat for the wealthy Romans. After the 
 fall of the Roman Empire it underwent many vicissitudes^ 
 and, notwithstanding the calamities it has suffered from 
 war and earthquakes, it is to-day the most populous city 
 in Italy. 
 
 March \^th. — Yesterday we arrived in port just in 
 time to escape one of the most fearful storms that have 
 visited this vicinity for many years. We came into port 
 
ITALY: NAPLES, ROME, ETC. 335 
 
 at one o'clocl-: in tlie afternoon, and the gale commenced 
 at three, raging for three days and nights without inter- 
 mission, during which time many ships along the Italian 
 coast were wrecked. To-day the gale is still so violent 
 that we dare not venture into the streets. 
 
 March 20th. — In regard to the manners and customs 
 of Naples, they only can be learned by close observation 
 of the habits of the middle class, for it is next to impos- 
 sible for a stranger, even with good introductions, to 
 know enough of the aristocracy of any large city to form 
 a correct judgment of their domestic habits. Almost all 
 families here, except those in the very highest ranks, live 
 in stories or flats, each story being a distinct habitation. 
 It is said that the society of Naples is anything but 
 moral. The nobility are fond of great show and splen- 
 dor. The women are proud, even when very poor ; they 
 never go out, either to walk or ride, without seemingly 
 makino; strenuous efforts to fascinate the other sex. The 
 streets are thronged with people, who thread their way 
 through a thousand obstacles, pushing and elbowing each 
 other in eveiy direction, while laughing and exchanging 
 jokes with the greatest good-humor. The people here, 
 as in Paris and Rome, spend the greater ])art of their 
 time out-of-doors — living as it were on the streets. While 
 the higher class sit around the small circular tables on 
 the sidewalks, sipping their wines and partaking of other 
 luxuries, the common people occupy the middle of the 
 streets, some with their ])ortable stoves, dealing out from 
 their frying-pans to the hungry the universal macaroni, 
 which is the favorite dish of the Neapolitans, and filling 
 
336 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 the air witli the smell of frying and other culinary odors. 
 Foreigners are soon recognized and besieged by the lower 
 class of peddlers, offering canes, flowers, and other small 
 trifles for sale, or wishing to clean boots; and many 
 offered their services to guide us through the streets or 
 to the public institutions, and by the cabmen we were 
 importuned on every corner to take rides in or out of 
 town. 
 
 March 21st. — It is principally in respect to its situ- 
 ation that Naples surpasses other Italian cities. The 
 streets are somewhat winding, but of good width, paved 
 with blocks of lava, laid in mortar, and are said to re- 
 semble the old Koman roads. The dwellings are well 
 built, of a species of white limestone resembling marble, 
 from five to six stories in height. The view from Naples 
 embraces the whole coast toward the east, which is lined 
 with a continuation of villages, and the picturesque little 
 island of Capri rising out of the sea in the distance. 
 
 It was in this city that St. Paul landed wlien on his 
 way from Palestine, and thence, in company with other 
 prisoners, passed overland into Rome to be tried for trea- 
 son before Csesar. 
 
 March 22(1. — This morning we rode out some twelve 
 miles, to the old volcano Solfatara. The ride was a pleas- 
 ant one, over a good road winding around the bay of 
 Naples. The early history of this old volcano is lost in 
 antiquity ; I am iti formed, however, that its eruptions 
 cause<l nuich damage in former ages. It is situated upon 
 a mountain, only a short distance from the sea, and its 
 summit has the form of a basin or plateau. As I saw it 
 
ITALY: NAPLES, ROME, ETC. 337 
 
 years ago, so it remained to-day, vomiting forth hot sul- 
 phur, steam, and smoke, making an angry noise and 
 puffing like a steam-engine, and, though no tire was vis- 
 ible, doubtless it was not far distant, as the o;rouud was 
 quite warm, and in places upon the summit we saw pools 
 of water miuQ-led with mud, which had reached the boil- 
 ing-point. We returned to Naj^les through the tunnel 
 underneath the mountain, thus reducing the distance 
 nearly one-half. On our return we visited the aquarium, 
 which has the best supply of the inhabitants of the sea 
 that I have seen in any part of the world. 
 
 March 23d. — We visited the museum, where many 
 curious things are deposited from Pompeii, consisting of 
 human skeletons, kitchen-utensils, lamps, carpenters' and 
 smiths' tools, images, the skeletons of horses and dogs, 
 pieces of charred books, cloth, cords, and a variety of 
 other things brought from the I'uined city. 
 
 Marcli 2-itli. — We rode out to Mount Vesuvius, about 
 twelve miles east from the city, and four from the sea. 
 This famous volcano can well be ranked amons; the s-reat 
 natural wonders of the world. Vesuvius is not now in 
 active eruption, but there is a continual issue of thick 
 volumes of black smoke ascendino; from its crater for 
 several hundred feet, which we saw on our passage to 
 Naples, some forty miles distant. When I was here in 
 1868, Vesuvius was in full eruption, vomiting from its 
 summit volumes of smoke, mingled with fire and volcanic 
 matter, which ascended a thousand feet or more. As 
 the lava issued from the volcano it ran down throuo;h a 
 ravine on the side of the mountain, like a small river of 
 
338 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 red-hot metal, of a bno-ht-crimson color, and of the con- 
 sistency of thick mortar. In its onward course it spread 
 over the side of the mountain, covering a su^^erficial area 
 of from forty to fifty acres of ground, presenting one of 
 the grandest and most sublime spectacles in Nature ever 
 beheld by man. 
 
 About three years ago Vesuvius was again in active 
 eruption, which continued for several weeks, presenting 
 scenes of horror and devastation seldom witnessed. It 
 is said, by those who observed the occurrence, that great 
 volumes of dense, white smoke, like fleeces of wool, as- 
 cended from the crater to the height of five thousand 
 feet or more, accompanied by earthquake-shocks, making 
 a deafening noise, roaring like ten thousand thunders, 
 while clouds of ashes, dust, and red-hot stones were car- 
 ried to a distance of some ten or twelve miles. More 
 than forty thousand persons fled from Naples to escape 
 the impending danger, among whom sixty were killed 
 and many wounded. Witnesses of such sights and sounds 
 might well fancy themselves assisting at the cannonading 
 of some tremendous fortress, accompanied with continu- 
 ous explosions of powder-magazines ; but the last erup- 
 tion was still more fearful, and can scarcely be realized 
 by those who did not witness the occurrence. 
 
 Vesuvius was a burning mountain two thousand years 
 before the Christian era. Its fires slumbered for a while, 
 but just before the time that Paul landed in Naples it 
 was seized with convulsions, by which the whole region 
 was shaken, and both Pompeii and Herculaneum were 
 ovenvhelmed and destroved. 
 
ITALY: NAPLES, ROME, ETC. 339 
 
 March 2oth. — We visited Pompeii, which fronts on 
 the bay of Naples, not far from Vesuvius. Pompeii was 
 demolished by the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in the 
 year a. d. 79, and continued buried under ashes and 
 other volcanic matter until within a few years, when the 
 Neapolitan Government commenced making excavations 
 to learn more as to the identity of the lost city. Pom- 
 peii has the reputation of being the most wonderful of 
 the antique cities of Italy, and scarcely second to any in 
 the world. The walls of this mysterious town are about 
 twenty feet thick and twenty-five feet high. The streets 
 are very well paved, curbed, and guttered, and have side- 
 walks. The design of the dwellings and institutions 
 is very good; some of the edifices are built of square 
 blocks of white and colored marble, and others of brick. 
 Judging from appearance, one would think that some of 
 them have not been constructed more than a score of 
 years. We turn to the right and to the left, and wander 
 from street to street, and still we have the perfect image 
 of a city before us, excepting that no inhabitants appear, 
 and we can but imagine that those who occupied it have 
 only left a few days ago. Some parts of this ancient city 
 still lie, from ten to thirty feet deep, underneath olive- 
 orchards and gardens, where we saw laborers at work 
 digging and carting away the dirt from off the ruins of 
 this once fine town. The melancholy destruction of such 
 a large place, by the eruption of Mount Vesuvius, in a. 
 single night, without a moment's warning; the desola- 
 tion which must have spread from dwelling to dwelling ; 
 the flight of mother, father, sister, and brother, from the 
 
340 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 scene of terror and confusion, must awaken the deepest 
 feelings of awe and sympathy in every human heart. 
 We picture the sight of mothers with infants in their 
 arms seeking safety and protection, gathering their little 
 ones around them, trying to escape the impending dan- 
 ger, yet j)lunged into a fearful eternity. 
 
 I will now give a description of some of the most 
 important edifices. As we entered the grounds we saw 
 a number of petrified human bodies, some of them re- 
 cently excavated from underneath the ruins. They bore 
 a striking resemblance to white marble, and were quite 
 as heavy and hard as stone ; some of their features were 
 as natural and distinct as on the night when suddenly 
 buried by the torrent of lava. 
 
 The House of Pensa, occupying an area of over three 
 hundred feet by one hundred and twenty, and fronting 
 on four streets, is a large and interesting mansion. The 
 garden or court was about half as large as the house, 
 with the remains of a fountain in the centre, and a reser- 
 voir in one corner. In one of the bedrooms of this tnan- 
 sion five female skeletons were found. 
 
 The House of Apollo was another fine edifice, having 
 richly-frescoed walls, with fountain and garden beauti- 
 fully decorated. Upon one of the walls are figures of 
 Apollo, Venus, and Juno. 
 
 The Temple of Jupiter is another large edifice, situ- 
 ated at the north end of the Forum. This location 
 is the finest in the city, commanding from its elevated 
 position a magnificent view of Mount Vesuvius. 
 
 The Forum is by far the most spacious and imposing 
 
ITALY: NAPLES, ROME, ETC. 34I 
 
 spot in Pompeii, occupying an elevated position about 
 four hundred yards from the Herculaneum Gate. 
 
 The inner walls of the Temple of Augustus, or Pan~ 
 theon, are richly decorated. Among the paintings found 
 here is that of Ulysses, in disguise, on his return from 
 Ithaca, meeting Penelope. 
 
 The Villa of Diomedes is an interesting and pleasant 
 residence. Near the garden gate of this villa were found 
 the skeletons of the owner and his servant, one holding 
 in his hand the keys of the house, the other carrying 
 a purse which contained one hundred gold and silver 
 coins, bearing the inscriptions of Nero and Titus. 
 
 We saw a large number of mills, in different parts of 
 the city, for grinding grain. They were built of two dis- 
 tinct pieces of granite ; the lower stone was concave, 
 about four feet in circumference and one foot through ; 
 the upper stone was convex, of the same size, cut in 
 grooves, and resting on the lower one ; through the head 
 of the upper stone were two holes, in which to place 
 bars, so that two persons could turn the mill. These 
 mills reminded me of the parable in Scripture related 
 by our Saviour: "Two women shall be grinding at 
 the mill; the one shall be taken, and the other left." 
 Here we also saw a large number of cooking-utensils, 
 sucli as bowls, cups and saucers, pans and ladles, all of 
 copper manufacture, and knives and forks, such as are 
 now in general use; also carpenters' tools, saws, files^ 
 axes, augers, chisels, and many others, some of them 
 quite as modern in tbeir construction as those in use at 
 the present day. 
 
342 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 The edifices to which I have alluded are built with 
 Mgh ceiliugs, frescoed walls, and marble floors, sur- 
 mounted with high, fluted columns with Corinthian 
 caps, and somewhat modern in construction, all of which 
 liave been covered until recently with lava and other 
 volcanic matter for the period of eighteen hundred years. 
 Too much cannot be said or learned of these old ruins, 
 with the condition of which every student of ancient 
 history should be familiar. 
 
 March 2^th. — To-day, owing to the prevalence of a 
 sudden and unexpected storm, we are confined to the 
 precincts of our hotel. 
 
 March '21th. — We called on B. O. Duncan, American 
 consul, who cordially received us, and gave us much and 
 valued information concerning Naples and its environs, 
 and also of the people. 
 
 March 2Wi. — To-day we devoted chiefly to shopping. 
 The stores are filled with rich and costly goods, of which 
 red coral and lava-work are the specialties. 
 
 March 29th. — We spent the day riding in and around 
 the town. There are many attractions to be met with 
 in Naples and its suburbs, and one might profitably 
 spend three months in the inspection of noteworthy and 
 beautiful objects. 
 
 March SOth. — This morning we took our departure 
 by the quarter-past six o'clock train for Rome ; distance 
 two hundred miles, fare twenty-seven lire each. The 
 environs and suburbs of Naples are rich in scenery. 
 When far distant from the city, we saw the smoke issu- 
 ing from the crater of Mount Vesuvius, forming heavy, 
 
ITALY: NAPLES, ROME, ETC. 343 
 
 dark clouds. At Casei'ta, not far from Naj^les, we passed 
 by one of the king's country palaces. In the distance 
 we caught sight of the range of the Apennines, which 
 extends the entire length of Italy. Many of these moun- 
 tains, it is said, are infested with bandits and robbers, 
 who get their living by plunder. The land upon the 
 plain is fertile ; the farmers are now ploughing the ground, 
 and some planting corn and potatoes. The country 
 -everywhere is covered with the mulberry-tree, which 
 affords food for the silkworm, and supports for the grape- 
 vine. Every farmer is compelled by law to have grow- 
 ing upon his land a certain number of trees, according 
 to the number of acres he works. The country is dotted 
 with towns and villages ; the more ancient are chiefly 
 built either upon the sides or tops of the mountains, sur- 
 rounded by stone walls ; but the modern towns are now 
 b)eing constructed upon the plains, without walls. The 
 country roads are macadamized and in excellent order, 
 lined with ox-teams, donkey-carts, and foot-travelers, on 
 their way to and from Naples. At 4.30 p. m. we arrived 
 in Rome, and found our way to the Hotel de Minerve, 
 board nine lire per day. 
 
 March 2>lst. — The city of Rome is beautifully situ- 
 ated upon the river Til)er, j^artly on seven hills, which 
 formed the chief site of ancient Rome. Four of these 
 hills, once the scene of so many exciting and bloody 
 events, are now covered by gardens and vineyards. 
 Rome, once the most celebrated of European cities, and 
 famous both in ancient and modern history — formerly 
 as being the chief city of the most powerful nation of 
 
344 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 antiquity, and afterward as the ecclesiastical capital of 
 Christendom and tlie residence of the pope — now is 
 under the government of the King of Italy. At an early 
 period she was considered the mistress of the entire 
 known world, holding in her grasp the destiny of all 
 nations ; her territory spreading over Europe, Asia, Af- 
 rica, and the islands of the sea, teeming with millions of 
 inhabitants. She is now reduced to a compai-atively 
 small town, surrounded by a zigzag wall, and containing 
 only about two hundred thousand souls. The city is 
 very well built, of a species of white stone or marble, 
 giving the houses a pretty appearance, but the streets 
 are both narrow and crooked, running in every conceiv- 
 able direction, and thronged with people. The stranger 
 and the unwary have to " blaze " their way through the 
 noisy crowd, for fear of being lost at every crook and 
 corner. Rome is characterized by fine churches, which 
 are the centre of attraction to the pleasure-seeker and 
 the curious. The citv contains in all three hundred and 
 sixty-five churches, of which St. Peter's is the most prom- 
 inent. This church is situated on Vatican Hill, over- 
 looking the city, is built in the shape of a Latin cross, 
 and is six hundred and seven feet in length by four hun- 
 dred and forty-five feet in width ; the height of the dome, 
 from the pavement to the top of the cross, is four hun- 
 dred and forty-eight feet. This church was one hundred 
 and seventy-six years in building, at a cost, when labor 
 was less than half what it is now, of fifty million dollars. 
 It is decidedly the largest Christian church in the world, 
 built of white marble, and its style of architecture is 
 

 
 D 
 W 
 (/) 
 
 J 
 
 
 o 
 
 X 
 
ITALY: NAPLES, ROME, ETC. 345 
 
 modern, cliaste, and classical. After one has beheld St. 
 Peter's the interest is greatly lessened in seeing other 
 churches. The pope is the head of the Catholic Church, 
 and is assisted by seventy-two cardinals, some of whom 
 reside in Kome, and others in different parts of the world. 
 At the decease of the pope, a choice is made by election 
 of one of the cardinals to fill his place, who holds tlie 
 office for life. 
 
 I will only briefly advert to some of the principal 
 antique edifices in Rome. The Colosseum was built 
 A. D. 79, in honor of Titus, on his return from the Jewish 
 war ; sixty thousand captive Jews were employed for ten 
 years in its construction. It is built of large blocks of 
 white stone, four stories high, and consists of three orders 
 of architecture — the first, Doric ; second, Ionic ; third and 
 fourth, Corinthian. In each of the lower tiers there are 
 eighty arches ; the circumference of the building is six- 
 teen hundred and forty -one feet, the height of the outer 
 walls one hundred and fifty-seven feet, and the length of 
 the arena two hundred and seventy-eight feet ; the whole 
 superficial area covers S'ix acres of ground, and would seat 
 eighty-seven thousand persons. At the time of its inau- 
 guration, which continued for one hundred days, five 
 thousand wild animals and ten thousand captive Jews 
 were slain within its walls for the amusement of the sj^ec- 
 tators. Titus himself died about this time. 
 
 The Temple of Venus was another famous structure, 
 but there only remain to denote its site numerous frag- 
 ments of marble columns strewed upon the ground. It 
 was built by Hadrian, after his own design, and there is 
 
 23 
 
34:6 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 a story to the effect tliat wlieu it was finislied he asked 
 an eminent architect what he thought of it. The latter 
 replied that it was very good for an emperor. Hadrian 
 took such offense that he immediately sent for an officer 
 of his guard, and ordered the architect's head cut off. 
 This temple was constructed in the year a. d. 67. After 
 its completion, people came from all parts of the Eastern. 
 world to see this royal palace, which is said to have been 
 richly adorned with paintings and sculpture, and also to 
 have contained the golden candlesticks and the golden 
 tables, and other pieces of valuable furniture, brought 
 by Titus from the great Temple of Jerusalem on his re- 
 turn from the Jewish War. But nothincr is visible of 
 those precious relics ; now they either have been removed 
 or else destroyed by the lapse of ages. The palace itself 
 is in a decayed condition, although there is enough re- 
 mainino" to furnish evidence of its old-time mao^nitude 
 and sj^lendor. 
 
 The old Roman Senate-chamber is worthy of note on 
 account of its historic associations. This chamber was 
 once the scene of many bloody acts and exciting debates. 
 It was in this hall that St. Paul pleaded his cause before 
 Cgesar. There remain now only a few fragments of 
 broken columns to identify the spot where the old Ro- 
 man chamber once stood. 
 
 The Pantheon is also an edifice of great interest. It 
 was built for a heathen temple by King Agrippa, in the 
 year a. d. 27. It is circular, and contains one of the 
 largest domes in Europe, supported by a bronze ring. 
 The building is in a good state of preservation, and is 
 
ITALY: NAPLES, ROME, ETC. 347 
 
 now used as a cliurcli for Catliolic worship. It is not at 
 all to be wondered at that edifices last for so long a pe- 
 riod in these countries, since they are built in the most 
 substantial manner of stone and cement combined. There 
 is no wood in their construction to decay ; even the doors 
 -and window-frames are of bronze. 
 
 The Forum is of great interest. On entering it from 
 the Via Bonella, we have the Capitol above us at the 
 right, and at the foot of the walls the remains of the 
 Temple of Concord, the three remaining columns of the 
 Temjole of Vesj^asian, and the colonnade of the Temple 
 of Saturn. At a short distance looms up the Temple 
 of Antoninus, and at the right are the huge ruins of 
 Caesar's Palace. 
 
 The Vatican is the capitol of modern E-ome, and ad- 
 joins St. Peter's Church. It is three stories in height, 
 and comprises an infinite number of rooms, galleries, cor- 
 ridors, chapels, a library of a hundred thousand vol- 
 umes, and a museum of immense size. It has twenty 
 courts, with eight grand stairways and two hundred 
 smaller ones. In history it is the most celebrated of all 
 papal palaces. It is composed of a mass of buildings 
 erected by many different popes, covering a space twelve 
 hundred feet in length and a thousand in breadth. 
 
 This palace is the pope's principal residence when he 
 is in Home. The grounds are laid out with very good 
 taste, adorned with ornamental trees and choice flowers. 
 The interior of the palace is very elegantly furnished, its 
 walls decorated with the finest paintings, and its ceilings 
 with the richest frescoes. By our valet de place we were 
 
348 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 conducted througli some of the principal chambers. We 
 first entered the hall of audience for the embassadors ; 
 this hall is finely decorated with stucco ornaments, and 
 covered with frescoes, illustrating events in the history 
 of the popes. We next entered the Sistine Chapel, which 
 is approached from this hall. On admission, we paid the 
 custodian a small fee. The frescoes on the walls are very 
 fine, having been executed by eminent artists, employed 
 by the diiferent popes to do the work ; the subjects are 
 principally taken from the Old Testament, and are con- 
 ceived in a spirit of sublime grandeur. The most at- 
 tractive painting in this hall is opposite the entrance; it 
 represents the last judgment; it is sixty feet high and 
 thirty broad, and was executed by Michael Angelo. 
 Here also is another large painting, representing the 
 transfiguration. This painting seems to express the mis- 
 eries of human life, and leads those who are afflicted to 
 look to heaven for comfort and relief The U23per j)or- 
 tion of the composition represents Mount Tabor ; on the 
 ground the three apostles are lying, deeply affected by 
 the supernatural light which proceeds from the divinity 
 of Christ, who, accompanied by Moses and Elijah, is 
 floating in the air. On one side are nine apostles, and 
 on the other a multitude of people. This splendid work 
 of art was executed by Raphael. 
 
 We were also conducted through the Gallery of Stat- 
 ues, where we saw all kinds of sculpture. The j^rincipal 
 objects of attraction are the two sarcophagi of immense 
 size. One of them was for Constantia, the daughter of 
 Constantine, who died a. d. 354 ; the other for the Em- 
 
ITALY: NAPLES, BOMB, ETC. 349 
 
 press Helena. There are many otlier things of note in 
 the Vatican, which would require several days to ex- 
 amine satisfactorily. 
 
 The Mamertine Prison is one of the most revolting 
 prisons that I have ever examined. Directly over it 
 stands an old church, on entering which we were con- 
 ducted through a gloomy stairway till we came to a trap- 
 door, through which we entered, descending sixteen stone 
 steps, worn by the footsteps of the countless throng of 
 visitors, till we approached a dark chamber about thirty 
 feet square, which is directly underneatli the floor of the 
 cburch ; from this chamber we descended nearly as many 
 steps as at first, to a lower chamber about the same size 
 as the upper. We ai-e now at least twenty-five feet below 
 the earth's surface, w^here the light of the sun is never 
 permitted to shine upon the countenances of those who 
 are so unfortunate as to Ije locked up within the in- 
 closure of its dark and gloomy walls. It was in this 
 prison that St. Paul and St. Peter ^yere incarcerated by 
 Nero. After the two apostles had been confined in this 
 dungeon for the period of nine months they were, by the 
 order of Nero, taken out and executed. While St. Paul 
 was being beheaded upon the Apj^ian Way, some two 
 miles outside of the limits of the present walls of the 
 <jity, St. Peter, at the same hour, was hanging upon the 
 ignominious cross on Vatican Hill, upon which spot St. 
 Peter's Church has been erected in commemoration of the 
 apostle's death ; and there is also a very fine church 
 erected over the spot where St. Paul fell a victim to the 
 Homans, called St. Paul's Church. 
 
350 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 April \st. — We hired a carriage and rode out several 
 miles into the country, upon the Via Appia. On the 
 way we passed by the old church of St. Sebastian, named 
 after the venerable saint, who was martyred. The coun- 
 try through which we rode is rather picturesque; the 
 dwellings are of stone, with thick walls and small win- 
 dows, and look as if they had stood for centuries, and 
 would stand for centuries to come. The soil is not very 
 fertile, though it could be made to produce very fair 
 crops; but the farmers are seemingly devoid of enter- 
 prise or skill. During our ride, we occasionally passed 
 antique ruins. 
 
 April 2d. — This being the Sabbath, we attend the 
 Presbyterian church, located outside the city walls. The 
 chapel is a neat little edifice, and will seat about three 
 hundred people. Mr. and Mrs. Runnels, our traveling- 
 companions, who joined us upon the circuit at San Fran- 
 cisco, left this mornino- en route for Switzerland. 
 
 April Sd. — ^This morning we left Rome by the quar- 
 ter-past ten o'clock train for Pisa, distance about two 
 hundred and twenty -live miles, fare forty lire each. 
 The country in the vicinity of Rome is hilly, and not as 
 fertile as in some other parts of Italy. At half-past 
 eleven we stopped for a few minutes at Palo, facing on 
 the Mediterranean Sea, where the country is more leveL 
 After leaving this town, we rode along the border of 
 the sea nearly all the afternoon. At intervals we saw 
 ships lying off at anchor, either taking in cargoes or dis- 
 charging them upon lighters. The country-houses are 
 all constructed of stone. The lower stories, or ground- 
 
ITALY: NAPLES, ROME, ETC. 35I 
 
 floors, of the farm-dwellings are occupied by cattle, and 
 the peoj^le live above. We arrived at Pisa at 7.15 p.m., 
 and put up at the Hotel de Londres, board ten and a half 
 lire per day. Here we I'ejoined our traveling-companions, 
 who left us at Rome. The principal objects of interest in 
 Pisa are the Leaning Tower and the old cathedral. We 
 devoted the day principally to an examination of the 
 statuary, of marble and alabaster, which are the special- 
 ties of the place. I purchased two handsome pieces of 
 statuary, and made a shipment of them to New York. 
 
 April Dtli. — We left Pisa this morning by the half- 
 past eleven o'clock train for Genoa, distance a hundred 
 and three miles, fare twenty lire. At one o'clock, ^^■Q> 
 approach the marble-quarries in the mountains ; the range 
 stretches close to the Mediterranean. Before getting 
 clear of the mountains we passed through ninety-two 
 tunnels; about half the distance accomplished during 
 the afternoon was made below the surface of the earth. 
 We arrived in Genoa at 6.30 p. m., and took board at 
 the Hotel de la Yille, ten lire per day. 
 
 April 6t7i. — The city of Genoa, called the Superb, is 
 handsomely situated on the Mediterranean, nearly sur- 
 rounded in the rear by a succession of high hills, one 
 gradually rising above another. The city is one of the 
 principal seaports of Italy ; it possesses an excellent har- 
 bor for shipping, and has a population of one hundred 
 and forty thousand. 
 
 Genoa is a city of great antiquity, and has undergone 
 many vicissitudes. The government was for a long time 
 in a state of revolution, and contests were constantly 
 
352 
 
 ABOUND. THE WORLD. 
 
 arising between the nobility and citizens. It was not 
 till 1756 til at it became tranquil. In 1797 tbe city was 
 taken by the French. The walls of the city have fre- 
 quently been enlarged ; the older portion of the town is 
 laid out in narrow and crooked streets, but in the new 
 part they are wide and handsome. The climate is fine, 
 
 GENOA. 
 
 and the atmosphere pure and clear. Beggars are few 
 in number, which makes it more as-reeable for tourists 
 and residents than most Italian cities. 
 
 Christopher Columbus was born in Genoa in 1442. A 
 fi.ne monument to his memory has been erected in the pub- 
 lic square. Columbus was a man of penetrating genius, 
 
ITALY: NAPLES, ROME, ETC. 353 
 
 and constantly ambitious of accomplisliing something that 
 would perpetuate his fame. He first applied to the city 
 of Genoa for assistance in attempting discoveries in the 
 Western seas, but it was refused, and he was regarded 
 as a visionary. The same ill success attended him in his 
 application to the courts of Portugal and England. He 
 then went to Spain, where he received encouragement 
 from Ferdinand and Isabella, who fitted him out with 
 three small ships, and a sufiicient supply of money. He 
 soon discovered the island of .Cuba, of which he took 
 possession. On his return to Spain, Ferdinand and Isa- 
 bella were much pleased with his great success. They 
 then furnished him with a larger number of ships, and 
 on his second voyage he discovered the group of Carib- 
 bean Islands and Jamaica. In his third voyage he dis- 
 covered that part of the continent of South America 
 where Carthao-ena was afterward built. 
 
 The cathedral of San Lorenzo is the centre of attrac- 
 tion in Grenoa. This old cathedral was built in the 
 eleventh century, in Gothic style, with a singular exte- 
 rior, being formed of white and black stripes of marble. 
 Some of the inscriptions in the church give the history 
 of the foundation of the city. A beautiful statue of the 
 *' Madonna and Child," made of bronze, is erected in the 
 church. The finest portion of the church is the chapel 
 of John the Baptist. The canopy over the altar covers 
 the sarcophagus in which are deposited the supposed 
 relics of the Baptist, which are contained in an iron- 
 bound chest. Here is also shown the dish out of which, 
 it is said, Christ ate the Last Supper. Tradition says 
 
354 AROUND TEE WORLD. 
 
 that it was originally presented by King Solomon to tlie 
 Queen of Sheba, and afterward preserved in the Temple. 
 At the time when the combined forces of Genoa and Pisa 
 captured Csesarea, the Genoese took the emerald dish for 
 their share of the booty, and it was brought to Genoa^ 
 where it was held in such veneration that twelve nobles 
 were appointed to guard it. It was only exhibited once 
 a year, and then the priests held it by a chain while be- 
 ing viewed by the crowd. So valuable was it then con- 
 sidered, that the Jews took it as security for a loan of 
 four million francs, which they advanced to the Genoese 
 for a period of forty years. 
 
 April ^tli. — We take our departure this morning by 
 the eight o'clock train for Turin, distance a hundred and 
 four miles, fare forty lire. Shortly after leaving we pass 
 through eleven tunnels. The country is mountainous and 
 picturesque. For some distance we ride along the banks 
 of a dry river-bed. Most of the mountains in Italy that 
 are susceptible of cultivation are terraced, and covered 
 with olive-trees and grape-vines. We arrive in Turin at 
 12.30 p. M., and put up at the Hotel Trombetta, board ten 
 lire a day. 
 
 The city of Turin is beautifully situated on a flat 
 plain between two rivers — the Dora Susina and the Po. 
 It is of an oval shape, measuring four miles around its 
 walls, and contains a population of two hundred and 
 twenty-iive thousand. It has been repeatedly destroyed. 
 The last severe injuries sustained Were in the fifteenth 
 century, at which time the suburbs were demolished, and 
 also its public works. It was made a military station by 
 
ITALY: NAPLES, ROME, ETC. 355 
 
 Julius Caesar, on his invasion of Gaul. In tlie year 312 
 a great victory was gained by Constantine in its imme- 
 diate vicinity. The Duke of Savoy took possession of it 
 in the tenth century. In the year 1536 the French got 
 possession and retained it for twenty-six years, and after- 
 ward lost it, but retook it in 1640. It was the old capi- 
 tal of the duchy of Savoy and of the kingdom of Sardinia^ 
 and on the union of all Italy under Victor Emmanuel it 
 became for a time the capital of the new kingdom, which 
 honor was subsequently conferred upon Florence, and 
 finally upon Home. 
 
 Turin is well built, the structures are uniform in ap- 
 pearance, and there is not a mean-looking house in the 
 city; even the residences of the poorer classes are almost 
 palaces. The buildings are of brick, coated over with 
 white cement in imitation of stone. A profusion of run- 
 ning water keeps the fine white pavement clean. All 
 through and around the city are fine, large shade-trees. 
 From here the view is magnificent — the Alps on one 
 side, and the Apennines in the distance on the other. 
 The climate is more changeable, and much colder, than 
 in the south of Italy. 
 
 We visit and are shown through one of the principal 
 palaces ; this one is elegantly furnished, with frescoed 
 walls, ornamented with rich tapestry, and fine paintings 
 and sculpture, executed by the best artists. The palaces 
 in Italy are constructed in the most substantial manner, 
 and with proper care look as if they might last till the 
 end of time ; the marble of which they are built does 
 not crumble, or change color, as it does in America. 
 
S56 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 April Sth. — We leave Turin this morning by the 
 half-past nine o'clock train for Geneva, distance some 
 two hundred miles, fare thirty-nine lire each. About an 
 hour after leaving, we come to and enter a deep ravine 
 in the Alps, through which we ride the greater part of 
 ijhe day. The scenery was broken, and most interesting. 
 At two o'clock we approach the Mont Cenis Tunnel, 
 which took thirty minutes to pass through, from Italy 
 into France. We stop at Modane, on the French fron- 
 tier, where our baggage undergoes the usual examina- 
 tion by the officers of customs, and make a change of 
 cars. At 7 p. m. we make another chano;e at Culoz. We 
 arrive in Geneva, Switzerland, at 11 p.m., and are con- 
 veyed to the Grand Hotel du Lac, board ten francs a 
 day. 
 
CHAPTER XXXIII. 
 
 SWITZERLAND. 
 
 April 9th. — Geneva is splendidly situated at tlie 
 soutliwesterly extremity of the beautiful lake of the same 
 name, and contains a population of sixty-five thousand. 
 The city is well built, the dwellings being lofty and con- 
 structed of white stone. The streets are winding, but of 
 good width, and well paved with small blocks of stone. 
 
 April 10 fh. — The people of Switzerland have no dis- 
 tinct language of their own, but speak German, Italian, 
 and French. Neither have they any particular standard 
 of currency, but receive all kinds of money at par. 
 
 April lltJi. — Geneva is especially noted for its clocks, 
 watches, fine jewelry, and musical instruments. Among 
 other things, I purchased a musical-box, of which I made 
 a shipment to New York. 
 
 April 12t7i. — This being Good-Friday, the shops and 
 stores are closed. The people in the forenoon mostly at- 
 tend church, but the afternoon is devoted to both riding 
 out, and sailing on the lake. 
 
 April 13th. — Geneva is more of a summer than a 
 winter resort, for the reason that it is surrounded by a 
 lofty chain of mountains, the highest of which are cov- 
 ered with snow the greater part of the year. Of course, 
 the atmosphere is chilly during the winter. Mont Blanc 
 
S58 AROUND THE, WORLD. 
 
 is tlie liigliest of the Alps, and from here is plain to our 
 view. To ascend its loftiest peak requires two days of 
 great fatigue in cliuil)ing. The ascent is never made 
 without the assistance of some two or three o-uides, each 
 of whom charges one hundred francs for his services, 
 which would seem like a large price ; and yet it is little 
 enough for these poor fellows, who peril their lives to 
 gratify a most unworthy curiosity. 
 
 April lUh. — There is nothing very ^sti'iking in Ge- 
 neva, excepting the charming scenery and the beautiful 
 works of Nature by which it is environed. On riding 
 out, we stopped at the old Protestant cathedral. The 
 church is of stone, and in a good state of preservation. 
 The pulpit is the same as when Calvin and other re- 
 formers preached from it. 
 
 AiJril loth. — We devote the day chiefly to shopping, 
 and walking about the town. 
 
 April 16th. — The rich and magnificent scenery of the 
 Lake of Geneva, and of the Alps, with their white varie- 
 gated tops looming up into the clouds, cannot be ade- 
 quately described. Some parts facing on the lake, more 
 exposed to the sun, are covered for a long distance up 
 the sides of the mountains with fine cultivated vine- 
 yards, which are most beautiful to look upon, while the 
 margin of the lake is teeming with small towns and vil- 
 lages, some of them of great antiquity. 
 
 April 17th. — There are several steamboats engaged 
 on the lake, carrying passengers both up and down, and 
 a large number of yachts are constantly seen sailing over 
 its placid waters. 
 
.S' WITZERLAN^D. 359 
 
 Apinl ISth. — This being our last day in Geneva, we 
 devote it to rambling about, and siglit-seeing. 
 
 Api'il Idth. — This morning we take our departure en 
 route for Paris, by tlie lialf-past ten o'clock train, distance 
 three hundred and eighty-eight miles, fare seventy-seven 
 francs apiece. The surroundings of Geneva are very 
 beautifal. We ride alonsf the border of the river Rhone, 
 which is the outlet of the lake, until we get nearly out 
 of the Alps. At length we pass through a long tunnel, 
 and enter France. 
 
CHAPTER XXXIV. 
 
 featstce: mIcon, dijon, parts, havre. 
 
 Ojst our arrival in France, at the first station, our 
 l^aggage undergoes another examination by the customs 
 officials. Soon after starting, we strike oflF uj^on the 
 plains, leaving the majestic Alps behind us. A 5 p. m. 
 we break our tour by stopping at Macon, where we re- 
 main overnight, putting up in the Hotel de I'Europe. 
 Macon is a small town, containing about twenty -five 
 thousand inhabitants ; it is situated on the river Saone, 
 tributary to the Rhone. 
 
 April 20th. — We resume our journey this morning 
 by the eleven o'clock train, en route for Paris. The coun- 
 try through which we ride is rough, and not very invit- 
 ing ; the grape is the principal croj:*. We stop at Dijon 
 for dinner. Dijon is the capital of the old j^rovince of 
 Burgundy, and is now a great railroad centre ; but, aside 
 from that, presents nothing very attractive. We reached 
 Paris at 10.30 p. m., j)rocured a cab, and were driven to 
 the Grand Hotel de I'Athenee, which was full, hence we 
 took up quarters in the Hotel de St.-Petersbourg, board 
 ten francs each per day. The legal current coin of the 
 country is the franc, equivalent to nineteen and one-fifth 
 cents of American coin. 
 
FRANCE: MACON, DIJON PARIS. 2,Q>1 
 
 April 216/. — Paris is situated on tlie river Seine, 
 Avlncli divides the city into two parts, but the municipal 
 government is in one. The Seine at Paris is about two 
 hundred yards in width, and is crossed by several fine 
 bridges of stone. The river-water is clear, and has its 
 outlet at Havre. The French capital contains nearly 
 two million inhal)itants, and is doubtless the most elab- 
 orately-built city in the world. Tlie houses are con- 
 structed in a uniform style; some are built of white 
 stone, easily cut, and others of a white, chalky clay com- 
 pi'essed into blocks. When used these blocks become 
 hardened by the effect of the atmosphere, and resemble 
 stone. As they are laid in the building, they form the 
 inner as well as the outer avails. Some of the dwelliuirs 
 are from six to seven stories hi^rh. There is no wood 
 used in tlieir construction, excepting for doors and cas- 
 ings ; the lloor-beams are of iron, and overlaid with tiles 
 of stone, and the roofs covered with slate. 
 
 A])ril ''I'^d. — The streets of Paris are of good width ; 
 some of the principal boulevards are much wider than 
 those of New York, and adorned with fine shade-trees of 
 uniform size. All of the boulevards, as well as the coun- 
 tr}^ roads, are macadamized with limestone, and are as 
 smooth aa a floor ; there are men constantly working 
 upon them, and when they become uneven or broken 
 they are immediately put in repair. Some of the streets 
 are coated with a composition of coal-ashes and tar, which 
 becomes as hard as stone and as smooth as glass. 
 
 April '2Zd, — There are several hundred hotels in Paris. 
 The i^eople generally live in flats (each story forming a 
 
 24 
 
362 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 distinct habitation), and do little if any cooking in their 
 dwellings, but commonlj^ eat two meals a day in the 
 hotels or restaurants. When the weather is warm and 
 pleasant, the people sj^end their evenings chiefly upon 
 the streets, having their tables and seats out upon the 
 sidewalks spread with wines and other luxuries. 
 
 April 24:th. — ^This being the Sabbath, we attended 
 the Mission Chapel ; the first sermon was in French, and 
 the second in Eno;lish. 
 
 April 2Qt]i. — The Parisians have long considered them- 
 selves at the head of civilization, both in matters of dress 
 and fashion ; they rank so by unanimous consent. They 
 seem more noted for outside show than for stability and 
 decision of character. Vice and iniquity abound in every 
 circle, from the highest to the lowest. They have little 
 regard for the Christian Sabbath, for it is kept as a day 
 of recreation, visiting theatres, ballrooms, etc. ; and horse- 
 racing, gambling, and many other vices, are common on 
 the Sabbath. 
 
 Ap)ril 26tJi. — To-day we shift our quarters from tlie 
 Hotel de St.-Petersbourg to the London and New York 
 Hotel, which is beautifully situated in a fashionable 23art 
 of the city — on Havre de Place — where thousands upon 
 thousands of people are seen promenading in the public 
 square daily. 
 
 April 27th. — ^To-day we devote to examining some 
 of the princi23al edifices. The Place de la Concorde is 
 one of the handsomest in Paris, if not in Europe ; we 
 have on our right La Madeleine, and De la Paix to the 
 left ; in the rear a portion of the city looms up overlook- 
 
FRANCE: MAC OX, DIJON, PARIS. 353 
 
 ing the Seine. We next enter the Place du Carrousel, 
 whicli is situated between the two wine's of the new 
 Louvre, facing at right angles, witli a fine park in front, 
 adorned witli laro;e ornamental sliade-trees of uniform 
 size, and fountains and fish-ponds. 
 
 April 2Sfh. — We visit the Colonne Vendome. This 
 column was erected by Napoleon in 1810, to commemc- 
 rate the victories of the grand army in the German cam- 
 paign. The bronze metal which covers this monument 
 weighs one hundred and sixty tons, and was cast from 
 the twelve hundred pieces of cannon taken from the bat- 
 tle-fields in that campaign. It was pulled down by the 
 Communists after the Franco-German War of 1870-71, 
 and has recently been reerected uj)on the same spot. 
 
 April 29th. — The Palais Royal covers more ground 
 than any other building in Paris excepting the Tuileries. 
 It was erected for a palace, and used as such for several 
 centuries, but is now turned into stores filled with all 
 kinds of fancy-goods. The court within is very large, 
 and entered by two gateways. The second floor, called 
 the Glass Gallery, is seven hundred feet long by three 
 hundred and twenty-eight wide, filled with all kinds of 
 fancy articles, and thronged, I may sa}', with thousands 
 of people. This is the principal place of resort for 
 strano-ers visitins; Paris. 
 
 April 30th. — To-day we attend the Congregational 
 church ; first sermon in French, second in English. 
 
 3fai/ 1st. — We meet with Dr. George Chandler, of 
 Boston, with whom I traveled, in 1868, through Syria, 
 Palestine, and Asia Minor. We also meet with Mr. and 
 
364 ■ AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 Mrs. Coryell, of Sliangliai, China, upon whom we called 
 when in that city. 
 
 May 2d. — To-day we ride out to Bon Marche, or the 
 cheap store of Paris, where most of the American and 
 English ladies shop for silks and fancy-goods. 
 
 May 3d. — We visited the gallery of paintings at the 
 Crystal Palace. This gallery is well worth a visit from 
 those who have a taste for fine paintings and statuary ; 
 the place was perfectly crowded, and it will be safe to 
 say that there were at least five thousand people present. 
 
 May 4tth. — We visit the panoramic view of the siege 
 of Paris, one of the largest and grandest ever witnessed. 
 This view alone would compensate a traveler from Amer- 
 ica, even if he should see nothing else. The building in 
 which the painting is shown is circular. The painting 
 extends round the entire circle. Lookins; at the scene, 
 not a particle of canvas is visible ; the view is perfectly 
 transparent. Instead of looking upon canvas, as in other 
 paintings, I imagined that I was viewing it in the dis- 
 tance, through the atmosphere. Here we have spread 
 before us both city and country, as far as the eye can 
 extend. In the distance we have before us the German 
 batteries, completely surrounding Paris, with the French 
 hemmed within the city walls. During the siege of one 
 hundred and thirty-two days, before an armistice could 
 be ao*reed upon, the Parisians suftered greatly from hun- 
 ger. In the vast picture we have all Paris before us, 
 with its domes and steeples, and surrounding country in 
 the distance, with the air filled with shells and other 
 dano-erous missiles of war, and numerous conflagrations 
 
FRANCE: MACON, DIJON, PARIS. 355 
 
 are seen all over the city. Thousands of workmen are 
 represented as having been engaged, some removing the . 
 dead and wounded ; others throwing up earthworks, and 
 carrying ])ags of sand ; while others were working upon 
 the ramparts and at the guns. 
 
 May 5th. — Paris was conceded to have been one of. 
 the strongest fortified cities in the world, surrounded by 
 a heavy stone-wall, extending thirty miles in circumfer- 
 ence, surmounted with cannon of the largest calibre, 
 Notwithstanding its prodigious strength, the Germans 
 marched some five hundred miles over bad and broken 
 roads with their heavy battering-trains, besieged and 
 took this large and strongly-fortified capital in the short 
 period of one hundred and thirty-two days. This signal 
 success of the Germans was seemingly suj^ernatural, as 
 if the Lord were fighting their battles, as he did those 
 of the Isi'aelites against the Egyptians. 
 
 Jfay Qth. — We devote the forenoon to a visit to the 
 museum in the Louvre, where we examine a large col- 
 lection of old paintings, executed by the best artists. 
 
 Mai/ 7t7i. — To-day we attended divine service in the 
 Congregational church, which was well filled, the con- 
 gregation being composed chiefly of Americans. 
 
 Jfay StJi. — We hire a carriage and ride out to the 
 Bois de Boulogne, over the Champs Elysees, which is the 
 widest and finest avenue in Euroj^e, if not in the world. 
 The park contains large forest-trees, and some fine l.-kes 
 of water, and the roads are excellent. But, in points of 
 real variety and beauty, it does not compare with the 
 CJentral Park in New York. I think that the Champs 
 
^QQ AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 Elysees, in the beautiful style inwliich it is laid out, and 
 adorned with flowers and shade-trees, presents a much 
 finer appearance than the park. 
 
 May 9t7i. — Paris, at the present day, is the acknowl^ 
 edged capital of the arts and sciences; it is also, without 
 exception, the handsomest city in the world, and the one 
 most resorted to by strangers from all quarters of the 
 globe. The boulevards, which form the arteries of this 
 famous capital, offer the most agreeable and picturesque 
 promenades, shaded as they are by ornamental trees.. 
 The city received great damage at the hands of her own 
 people during the late war, but there are scarcely any 
 visible ruins remaining, excepting those of the palace of 
 the Tuileries, which is now undergoing repairs. 
 
 May 10th. — We visit the Council of Arbitration. 
 This is one of the best-regulated courts in Paris. It was 
 founded for the purpose of settling disputes between 
 masters and workmen in an amicable manner, and it is 
 said that nineteen cases out of every twenty brought be- 
 fore it are satisfactorily adjusted. The council is com- 
 posed of master-mechanics, elected by the different trades, 
 and these trades are divided into four classes, each class 
 having a council, so that the most intricate dispute is 
 decided in a short space of time by the custom of the 
 trade. How desirable it would be to have such a court 
 of justice in the city of New York, where many of our 
 judges have to decide matters of which, in many cases,, 
 they must be entirely ignorant ! 
 
 May 11th. — ^To-day we devote principally to shop- 
 ping. Among other things we purchased a fine megale- 
 
FRANCE: MACON, DIJON, PARIS. 3^7 
 
 toscopio. There are so many fancy articles in Paris that 
 one can spend as much money as he wishes, and get 
 nothing very substantial in return. 
 
 3£ay 12tli. — To-day I visit the fortifications of Paris. 
 These works have been considered as among the best 
 and strongest in the world. At a distance of about a 
 mile outside the former walls runs an additional wall, 
 about forty-seven feet high, bastioned and terraced, in- 
 cluding seventeen outworks or forts, calculated for the 
 mounting of twenty-seven hundred and sixty guns. In 
 1841, twenty million dollars were expended to complete 
 and strengthen the fortifications. In some places they 
 were much battered by the German army during the 
 late war. 
 
 May 13th. — We visit the Tuileries. This palace is 
 an immense building of white stone, and measures around 
 its walls nearly a mile in extent, having a large court 
 within. Durino; the late war, it sustained much damag-e 
 hj fire. 
 
 May 14:fh. — We ride out to see the Obelisk of Luxor, 
 presented by Mehemet Ali, of Egypt, to the French Gov- 
 ernment. It weighs two hundred and fifty tons ; it is 
 seventy-two feet high, seven feet six inches wide at the 
 base, sloping up to five feet four inches at its top, and is 
 one piece of stone. It took three years to bring this 
 stone from Thebes, iu Egypt, a distance of twenty-five 
 hundred miles, at a cost of some four hundred thousand 
 dollars. 
 
 May 15th. — ^To-day we leave Paris by the one o'clock 
 train, e?i route for London, by the way of Havre and 
 
368 AROUilD THE WORLD. 
 
 Soutliampton ; distance tliree Luuclred and forty - tw o 
 miles, fare forty francs apiece. The country tlirough 
 which we j)ass is fertile, and the farm-houses are very 
 well built. It has been my experience, in all countries 
 through which I have traveled, to find that where the 
 farm-houses look neat, and are painted or whitewashed, 
 there the soil is universally good; but, where the dwell- 
 ings have a poor, dilapidated appearance, we have strong 
 evidence of inferior soil. We ride a great j^art of the 
 way through the beautiful valley bordering on the Seine, 
 and reach Havre at 5 p. m. 
 
 Havre is one of the principal seaports of France, and 
 contains upward of one hundred thousand inhabitants. 
 The city is situated at tlie outlet of the Seine, and pos- 
 sesses two very tine harbors, one natural, the other arti- 
 ficial. At 8.30 p. M. we leave Havre by steam shi]), and 
 cross the Channel to Southampton. 
 
CHAPTER XXXV. 
 
 ENGLAND : LONDON, LIVERPOOL. 
 
 May 16tJi. — We arrive in Soutliampton this moraing 
 at six o'clock, Laving been nine and a lialf hours crossing 
 the Channel. Southampton is an excellent harbor for 
 shipping, but it does not compare in magnitude with 
 Liverpool. The city contains only about forty-five thou- 
 sand inhabitants. Here, again, we have our trunks ex- 
 amined by the custom-house officials. 
 
 The legal currency of England is j)Ounds, shillings, 
 pence, and farthings; one English jjound is equivalent 
 to four dollars and eighty cents of American coin; one 
 shilling, twenty-four cents ; one j^enny, two cents ; one 
 farthino;, one-half cent. 
 
 We resume our journey this morning by the 7 a. m. 
 train, en route for London. Tlie country, so far as we 
 can see along the road, presents good farming-lands, un- 
 der an excellent state of cultivation. We arrive in Lon- 
 don at 10.30 A. M. 
 
 The city of London, the metropolis of the United 
 Kingdom of Great Britain and L'eland, and the most 
 wealthy city in the world, contains a population of about 
 three million four hundred thousand souls. It is situ- 
 ated on the river Thames, some ninety miles from the 
 sea. It is built on both sides of the river, which is here 
 
370 AEOUXD THE WORLD. 
 
 about twelve hundred feet wide, and is crossed by sev- 
 eral stone and ii-on bridges. London was formerly the 
 largest seaport in the world, but, in consequence of its 
 being so for inland, and the river-current running so 
 rapidly, it became somewhat hazardous for such an in- 
 crease of shipping, so that her commerce has been of late 
 years reduced and added to that of Liverpool and South- 
 ampton, which ports have easier access to the ocean. 
 
 London is of great antiquity. When it was in pos- 
 session of the Romans it was inclosed by a heavy stone- 
 wall, but there is nothing now visible of this ancient 
 barrier. For several hundred years London had suffered 
 much from tire and pestilence, but it is now considered 
 to be one of the healthiest and best-governed cities in 
 the world. The metropolis, with its suburbs, covers one 
 hundred and twenty square miles. It is distinguished 
 for its active air of business, which 23ervades it in every 
 direction. The dwellings are plain and substantial, and 
 the public buildings are built more for use than orna- 
 ment. 
 
 May 17th. — To-day we go out to see some of the ob- 
 jects of interest ; but there is so much to see amid the 
 great throng of people, that we scarcely know where ta 
 go first. We finally make our way to the House of Par- 
 liament, which is comparatively a new building, having 
 a frontao^e on the Thames of nine hundred feet. It is of 
 white marble, decorated with rich statues and coats of 
 arms, and in size is more than five times as large as the 
 new City Hall in New York, but has not cost as much 
 money. The House of Parliament is divided into two 
 
ENGLAND: LONDON, LIVERPOOL. 37X 
 
 parts ; at the one end is the Chamber of Lords, and at 
 the other the Chamber of Commons. The Houses are 
 now in session. The members are dressed in black-silk 
 gowns, nearly reaching to the floor, \vith white wigs upon 
 their heads; to a stranger, unaccustomed to seeing such 
 a style of costume, tliey would seem more like a body of 
 old women than leo;islators. 
 
 May 18th. — Buckingham Palace is a fine building,, 
 and is the residence of the queen and royal family when 
 they are in the city. The principal object of interest is 
 the throne-room, elegantly decorated with rich striped 
 crimson satin, with gold trimmings. On passing through 
 we come to the queen's drawing-room, neatly furnished^ 
 and the walls adorned with choice paintings. We were 
 conducted all through the palace (excepting the queen's 
 private apartments) — the library, green drawing-room^ 
 gilt-room, and the sculpture-gallery — in all of which are 
 choice pictures. Here is one painting for which George 
 IV. paid five thousand guineas. 
 
 3fat/ Idth. — In addition to other places of interest, we 
 visit St. Paul's Cathedral, the largest Protestant church 
 in the world ; .in size it is next to St. Peter's in Eome. 
 Its length is five hundred feet, by three hundred and 
 eleven feet in breadth, and the height from the pave- 
 ment to the top of the cross is four hundred feet. The 
 large bell of this cathedral is only tolled on the occasion 
 of a death in the royal family. 
 
 The English are a church-going people. It is said 
 that there are over nine hundred churches in London. 
 Many of them are remarkable for their antiquity, others 
 
372 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 for tlieir arcliitectural beauty aud elaborate finisli. Bow 
 Cinircli is a liandsome edifice, located in a very conspicu- 
 ous position, on the south side of Cheapside. In this 
 church the consecrations of the Bisho]3S of London take 
 place. St. George's Church is said to be remarkable for 
 the numerous weddings which take place there. 
 
 May 20th. — To-day we visit the Bank of England, the 
 most extensive banking institution in the world. It has 
 in its employ more than one thousand clerks, with sala- 
 ries ranging from one hundred and fifty to six thousand 
 dollars per year. The building itself is not very attrac- 
 tive. The most interesting a23artmeuts are the bullion- 
 offices, the weighing-office, the treasury, and the aj^art- 
 ments where the bank-notes are printed. 
 
 The General Post-Office is another huge structure, 
 built of marble in the Ionic style. This establishment 
 employs over twenty thousand clerks. 
 
 May 21sf. — This day being the Sabbath, we attend 
 Bev. Dr. Spurgeon's church in the forenoon. This famous 
 Baptist divine is al)out forty years of age, of medium 
 height, and rather fleshy, with nothing very striking in 
 his appearance, but easy and pleasing in his address, and 
 possessing a loud and clear voice, which could be dis- 
 tinctly heard in every part of the house. His style of 
 preacbing is plain and simple, but logical, so that the 
 most unlearned could understand every sentence; his 
 words were expressed with great force and power, which 
 seemed to thrill every heart. (Text, Hebrews vi. 19: 
 •*' Which hope we have as an anchor of the soul, both sure 
 and steadfast, and which entereth into that within the 
 
ENGLAND: LONDON, LIVERPOOL. 373 
 
 Yeil.") The most profound silence j^revailecl in tlie au- 
 dience. The interior of the church is oval, with two 
 unbroken tiers of galleries, suj^ported by iron columns, 
 and will seat six thousand people. On this occasion the 
 building was crowded to its fullest capacity ; many were 
 obliged to stand, and hundreds, if not thousands, could 
 not gain admission. The preacher's argument w^as so 
 clear, forcible, and childlike, that he reminded me of the 
 aj)0stles and the prophets. The congregation began to 
 assemble at least an hour before the service commenced. 
 Before entering the church, every stranger was presented 
 witli a small envelope, on which ^vas inscribed this re- 
 quest : " Inclose your contribution within this card for 
 the benefit and spread of the gospel of Christ." 
 
 3Iay 22c/. — This afternoon we go to see Madame Tus- 
 saud's exhibition of wax-figures. It is decidedly the finest 
 collection of the kind in the world. The fio-ures are of 
 life-size, and so j)erfect in construction that on entering 
 the room I imagined them to be living j)ersonages. They 
 were all dressed in the style of the age in which they 
 lived, to suit the characters which they were intended 
 to represent. Among them we saw George Washington, 
 Abraham Lincoln, Andrew Johnson, and General Grant. 
 We also saw the royal family of England ; John Wesley, 
 the founder of Methodism ; John Knox and John Calvin, 
 the great Reformers ; and many others of note, all dressed 
 in the style of costume of their own time. 
 
 3Iay 23cl. — To-day we ride out to see the Royal Zo- 
 ological Gardens, in Regent's Park. This is one of the 
 famous institutions of London. The fee for admittance 
 
374 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 is one Eno-lisli shilling:. There are some refresliino; little 
 lakes, bordered by ornamental trees and shrubs; and 
 neat little thatched cottages, almost enveloped in the 
 running woodbine. Here, too, the birds are filling the 
 perfumed air with their heavenly music. Following the 
 beautiful serpentine walks, we spy out the abodes of the 
 bears, monkeys, and numerous other animals, gathered 
 from every j^art of the globe, and forming one of the 
 :finest collections in England. 
 
 May 24:th. — When I was in London on a previous 
 o casion, I rode out to \\'indsor, which is reached by 
 rail in about an hour. We went most of the distance 
 along the border of the Thames, lined with small towns 
 and villages. Windsor is situated on the Thames, and 
 contains a population of about twelve thousand souls. 
 The palace and castle cover a superficial area of ten acres. 
 W^indsor Park is beautifully laid out with roads and 
 •shade-trees, and contains seventeen hundred acres. We 
 ascended the old castle-walls, whence we had the whole 
 country spread out before us, with the picturesque 
 Thames winding through the beautiful plains till lost in 
 the distance ; and as we looked through the old spy-glass 
 toward London, the entire country appeared dotted with 
 small towns and hamlets. We now enter and are shown 
 through the old chapel, which is of great interest. Here 
 we see the tombs erected to the memory of departed 
 members of the royal family. The castle lies off from 
 the town of Windsor, upon an elevation, ascended by 
 steps, and completely overlooking the town itself. It is 
 in this castle that the marriages of the royal family take 
 
ENGLAND: LONDON, LIVERPOOL. 375 
 
 place, and on their death they are buried in the vault of 
 this chapel. It is also in this chapel that the installa- 
 tion of the knights takes place. The interior of the cas- 
 tle is rich in decorations and works of art, embi-acing 
 pictures, statuary, and bronzes. The principal gallery 
 in which these works are shown is over five hundred feet 
 in leno;th. In the centre of the castle is situated the 
 round to^s"er in which James I. of Scotland was confined. 
 A short distance from here is the residence of the late 
 Duchess of Kent, the queen's mother, in which she re- 
 sided during her lifetime. 
 
 May 2Dt/i. — St. James's Palace is more ancient in its 
 general aspect than some others, but not so inviting. It 
 was the residence of the sovereigns of England previous 
 to Victoria's occupying Buckingham Palace; the queen, 
 however, still holds drawing-rooms here. In this 23alace 
 Charles I. took final leave of his children. 
 
 Lambeth Palace is situated on the bank of the Thames, 
 and is the town residence of the Archbishoj) of Canter- 
 bury. It is an old edifice, and dates back to the middle 
 of the thirteenth century. Its library contains a collec- 
 tion of some of the oldest nianuscripts in Europe. 
 
 The Tower of London is said by tradition to have 
 been built by Julius Caesar. The foi tress is, at all events, 
 of great antiquity ; it covers an area of ten acres, and its 
 walls are at least fourteen feet thick. We were shown 
 through the Barracks, Armory, Jewel -House, White 
 Tower, St. Peter's Tower, and the Bloody Tower, in 
 which Richard III. had his nephews murdered ; the Brick 
 Tower, in which Lady Jane Grey was imj^risoned ; also 
 
376 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 tLe prison in which Anne Boleyn was incarcerated, and 
 other rooms too numerous to mention. This fortress was 
 used as a residence for the monarchs of Eno;land down 
 to the time of Queen Elizabeth, and also as a prison for 
 state criminals. It is said that many of the kings, queens, 
 warriors, and statesmen, after having been incarcerated, 
 were put to death within these dark and gloomy walls. 
 Here we were shown the old execution-knife and bloody 
 block once in use for chopping off the heads of royal and 
 other criminals, and the gutter formed in the stone floor 
 to carry off the victims' blood. We were also taken 
 through the jewel-room, containing many of the jewels 
 of royalty ; they were inclosed in a large glass case, se- 
 cured by heavy iron bars, among which we saw the 
 crown made for Queen Victoria's coronation, at a cost 
 of six hundred thousand dollars, and the laro;e ring; worn 
 by the Black Prince, as well as the crown of the Prince 
 of Wales, and also many other crowns said to have been 
 worn by the various monarchs ; here, too, are exliibited the 
 gold and ivory sceptre, and the coronation spoon, which 
 are estimated to be worth fifteen million dollars. 
 
 Westminster Abbey is of much interest. Its style 
 of architecture is Gothic. Here both kings and queens 
 have been crowned from the time of Edward the Con- 
 fessor down to Queen Victoria ; underneath its floor 
 many of them have been buried. Here we see the monu- 
 ment erected to the memory of Mary Queen of Scots — 
 Queen Elizabeth and Mary lie in the same tomb ; here 
 also are handsome monuments to the memory of Shake- 
 speare, and scores of other great men. 
 
 r 
 
ENGLAND: LONDON, LIVERPOOL. 377 
 
 From here we go to Hyde Park, wbicli is the most 
 fashionable park in London. All ranks nnd classes, from 
 the peasant to the sovereign, may be found here on a 
 pleasant afternoon. This park covers an area of four 
 hundred acres; the grounds are mostly level, and the 
 paths are not very winding. There is a beautiful lake 
 connected with the park, which winds round in many 
 forms, and the shade-trees are very large. 
 
 We make an excursion some few miles down the 
 Thames to Greenwich. We pass by the ship-yard in 
 which the steamship Great Eastern w^as built; also the 
 East India Company's docks, in which the principal ship- 
 ping of London lies. These docks, or quays, extend over 
 a mile along the river-front, and as far back. They con- 
 sist of large basins, excavated for the purpose of taking 
 in ships ; at short intervals, fronting on the river, there 
 are locks, through which the ships enter into the basins 
 at high tide, and which are kept closed at low water. 
 In consequence of the great rise and fall of the tide, it is 
 impracticable to have the shipping exposed at the river- 
 front. We passed by a ship which had grounded in the 
 river at high water ; she lay high and dry at low tide, so 
 that her keel was visible. The great rise and fall of the 
 tide in the Thames are detrimental to the shipping in- 
 terests of London, and much of her commerce, as pre- 
 viously remarked, has been diverted in consequence to 
 Liverpool and Southampton, where vessels have easier 
 access to the sea. 
 
 The principal edifices in London are not so elaborate 
 in style and finish as are those of Paris, and there is also 
 
 25 
 
378 AROUXD THE WORLD. 
 
 a marked difference in tlie population of the two capi- 
 tals. While the people of Paris are all for fashion and 
 outward show, those of London have more regard for 
 domestic comforts. 
 
 May ^(Stli. — This morning we leave London by the 
 ten o'clock train, over the Northwestern Railway, for 
 Liverpool; distance two hundred and seventy miles, fare 
 twenty-nine shillings. Just outside of London, the coun- 
 try is lined with beautiful gardens teeming with luxu- 
 riant vegetation, and the wide avenues are filled with 
 heavy teams loaded with produce going into the city. 
 The face of the countrv is somewhat rollino-, but fertile. 
 The farms are larg-e, but the dwellino-s rather small : the 
 barns and out-houses are of good size, all of brick, built 
 in the most substantial manner. 
 
 It is a most singular fact that when two strange Eng- 
 lishmen meet in a railway-carriage they will not converse 
 too"ether, without a formal introduction. We were ac- 
 companied by two well-dressed, respectable-looking Eng- 
 lishmen, strangers to each other ; one seemed more genial 
 than the other, and asked his countryman some simple 
 question, to which he made no reply, but the latter was 
 very willing to talk with us Americans, whereupon they 
 both joined in conversation with us, as if we had been 
 old acquaintances, but would not exchange a word be- 
 tween themselves, though we were most cordially treated 
 by both. 
 
 At 3 p. M. we arrived in Liverpool and put up at the 
 Washington Hotel; board will average in this hotel 
 about fifteen shillings per day. 
 
ENGLAND: LONDON, LIVERPOOL. 379 
 
 May 2^ til. — Liverpool is situated on the river Mer- 
 sey, about two miles from tlie sea, and has a population 
 of more than seven hundred thousand souls. It is the 
 largest seaport in the world, except New York. Her 
 docks and quays have no equal ; they are built of large 
 blocks of cut granite, fastened together with heavy iron 
 bolts. When a ship arrives in port she is locked in the 
 dock, and there remains till discharged of her cargo. 
 
 May 2Sth. — This being the Sabbath, we attend the 
 Wesleyan Methodist church. 
 
 May 29th. — Liverpool, in activity, is similar to Lon- 
 don, New York, and other large commercial ports, full 
 of bustle and noise, and has gotten to be rather a pretty 
 city. Some fine hotels have been recently erected, but 
 the great majority of American tourists hitherto, from the 
 Continent, have only stopped here long enough to make 
 ready to take ship for home. 
 
 May 80th. — To-day I ride out to the ship-yards, to 
 examine the building of iron vessels. They have ma- 
 chinery so perfect for shaping iron for the construction 
 of ships that an iron vessel can be put together more 
 cheaply, and in less time, than it requires to build a 
 wooden one. They cut up and j^lane iron with as much 
 apparent ease as the ship-builders in America work wood. 
 A steamship in England can be built of iron, with en- 
 gines, masts, sails, rigging, all complete, for one hundred 
 dollars per ton, and a sailing-ship for from sixty to sev- 
 enty dollars per ton. Something of this facility, if not 
 cheapness, in building iron steamships is being shown in 
 this country by Mr. John Roach at Chester, Pennsylvania. 
 
380 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 May 2>lst. — To-day I devote chiefly to examining the 
 dry-docks in Liverpool, vs^liich are the best and largest 
 in the world. They are constructed of large blocks of 
 granite, and bolted together in the most substantial man- 
 ner. The largest which came under my observation was 
 eight hundred feet long, having in dock three large shij)s 
 lying in a line, one ahead of the other. The ships are 
 floated in at high tide, and then the gates are closed ; at 
 the following low tide the water is let out by a sluice- 
 door at one end of the dock; when the water is out — 
 which has a fall of from sixteen to eighteen feet — then 
 the gate is closed, leaving the ship dry without any 
 pumping, although they have pumps constructed in case 
 of accident to the gates. The largest ship-of-the-line can 
 be docked in less than an hour. The wages for ship-car- 
 penters and calkers is four shillings and sixpence per 
 day, which is considerably less than the rate paid in the 
 United States for similar work. 
 
 There is another style of dock in Liverpool — com- 
 monly called basins. In consequence of the great rise 
 and fall of the tide, and the swift current in the Mersey,. 
 there is great danger in anchoring vessels in the stream,, 
 and all ships are floated in these basins at high tide, and 
 there remain locked in until their cargoes have been dis- 
 charged or shipped. These docks, or basins, have gates 
 for ingress, which are kept closed, being only opened at 
 high tide to let ships in or out ; hence the basins are 
 kept constantly filled with water, so that there is no rise 
 nor fall of the water as of that in the river. They are 
 built of large blocks of granite, laid in mortar, strapped 
 
ENGLAND: LONDON, LIVERPOOL. 33 1 
 
 and bolted togetlier with iron rods in the strongest man- 
 ner. These docks reach along the river frontage some 
 six or seven miles, making a complete and safe harbor 
 for shipping. 
 
 June 1st. — We ride out on the Park road, over which 
 is a fine drive, and one of the principal resorts in Liver- 
 pool. The country mansions are of stone, mostly in 
 Gothic style, with their lawns laid out in winding roads ; 
 the dwellings are hid by large shade-trees, which give 
 them a lonely appearance, and they do not present that 
 cheerful and lively aspect that the more modern countiy 
 cottao;es of America do. 
 
 (Tune 2d. — This morning we leave Liverpool by the 
 ten o'clock train en route for Holyhead, Wales ; distance 
 ■one hundred and ten miles, fare twenty shillings each. 
 At twelve o'clock we stop at Chester, and put up at the 
 ■Queen's Hotel, board twelve shillings per day. 
 
CHAPTER XXXVI. 
 
 wales: CHESTER, BANGOR, HOLYHEAD, CONWAY. 
 
 June 2d. — Wales is tlie soutliwestern portion of the 
 island of Great Britain. Its greatest length is ninety 
 miles, and it varies from forty to eighty miles in breadth. 
 Into this country the ancient Britons retreated from the 
 advances of successive invaders, and here maintained their 
 independence. The Romans were unable to reduce them 
 to complete subjection. 
 
 This mountainous country, defended by British valor,, 
 remained the secure retreat of British independence, and 
 was never entirely subjected to the crown of England 
 till the reign of Edward I., who, in order to reconcile the 
 Welsh to the English yoke, sent his queen into the coun- 
 try, where she gave birth to a son who was duly ac- 
 knowledged as their prince. From that period to the 
 present, the eldest son of the King of England has been 
 styled the Prince of Wales, and as such has deriyed cer- 
 tain revenues from the country. 
 
 'Tune 3<:/. — In the natural aspect of the country, its 
 mountains and hills, its valleys and glens, its lakes and 
 rivers, few regions can be said to surj)ass Wales in beauty 
 and grandeur ; while almost every foot of her territory 
 is associated with historical events of more than ordinary 
 interest, since it abounds in the remains of antique en-^ 
 
WALES: CUESTER, BANGOR, ETC. ;383 
 
 campments, fortresses, castles, and castellated mansions. 
 At different periods a great variety of specimens of mili- 
 tary architecture has been found, exhibiting the diver- 
 sified styles of different ages. The inhabitants, too, are 
 still a distinct and very remarkable people, and, in the 
 remoter districts, yet speak the language of their British 
 ancestors. 
 
 June 4:fh. — The city of Chester is situated on the ele- 
 vated banks of the river Dee, by which it is bounded on 
 the south and west sides. The Eomans are believed to 
 have been its founders, and its site was selected by them 
 for one of their chief military stations. Many remains 
 of Roman antiquity have at different times been discov- 
 ered in its vicinity, such as lamps, urns, statues, weapons 
 of war, coins, pottery, and other curious specimens of the 
 conquerors' arts. Chester is surrounded by thick stone- 
 walls, constructed by the Romans, which afford a very 
 agreeable walk of about two miles. In making the cir- 
 cuit of the town, on the top of this wall, a fine view is 
 oljtained of the surrounding country in every direction, 
 and an opportunity afforded for observing the peculiar 
 construction and antiquated architecture of the city. The 
 surroundings of Chester abound in rich gardens, delight- 
 ful groves, stately trees, and fragrant flowers. 
 
 The old castle was a noble structure in the olden 
 time, little of which, however, now remains, excepting a 
 tower bearing the name of Julius Agricola, who, in the 
 year 78 a. d. commanded the Roman forces in Britain, of 
 which he was made governor, extended his conquests 
 into Scotland, and built a chain of forts from the Clyde 
 
384 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 to the Fritli of Forth. A more modern edifice has been . 
 substituted for the ohl fortress, designed for the use of 
 the garrison. It contains forty thousand stand of arms, 
 besides one hundred pieces of ordnance. 
 
 June otK — We leave Chester by the twelve o'clock 
 train en route for Holyhead ; but break our tour again 
 at Bangor, three liours' ride from Chester, where we put 
 up at the British Hotel, which is the best in the town, 
 at eight shillings per day. The hotel is small, but toler- 
 ably well kept. Bangor, situated on or near the straits 
 of Menai, is a town of great antiquity. The rising 
 grounds about the city in every direction afford exten- 
 sive prospects, embracing a great variety of coast and 
 mountain scenery. Owing to its peculiar situation, it 
 has long been a favorite place of resort, and the number 
 of visitors has greatly increased since the construction of 
 the suspension-bridge across the Menai Straits. The 
 city, including the suburbs, contains about fifteen thou- 
 sand inhabitants. The most important buildings are tlie 
 old cathedral, the episcopal palace, the meeting-houses of 
 the various denominations, Roman Catholic church. Free 
 School, Union Poor- House, Market-House, Assembly- 
 Kooms, Temperance Hall, and three banks. 
 
 June 6t7i. — In the forenoon we attended the Wes- 
 leyan Methodist church ; in the afternoon we went to 
 the cathedral. The foundation-walls of this old edifice 
 were laid in the fifth century, but the building has been 
 destroyed by its enemies, in difterent wars, some two 
 or three times, and as often rebuilt. In some of the 
 churches preaching is in the Welsh language. It is a 
 
WALES: CHESTER, BANGOR, ETC. 385' 
 
 singular fact tliat in tlie British Isles tlie people speak 
 iive distinct dialects — Welsh, Lowland Scotch, old 
 Gaelic, Irish, or Erse, and English ; the latter, of course, 
 is the prevailing language, and is spoken by the educated 
 ihrouo-hout the kingdom. 
 
 June 1th. — To-day we ride out some seven or eight 
 miles to the slate-quarries. This is one of the most 
 interesting excursions made from Bangor, over a good 
 country-road. These quarries are the largest in Eng- 
 land, employing some three thousand men to work them. 
 On our return we I'ode through the village of Bethesda, 
 containing about five or six thousand inhabitants, who 
 are chiefly employed in the slate-quarries. We also 
 passed by Lord Penrhyn's castle, which occupies a com- 
 mandino; elevation. It is constructed in the Norman 
 style of architecture, and displays a vast range of build- 
 ings, crowned with lofty towers. The adjoining park is 
 studded with stately trees, and is seven miles in circuit. 
 
 June Sth. — We visit the market-house, where all 
 kinds of meats, poultry, and vegetables, are offered for 
 sale. It was most amusing to see the countiy-people 
 •come in, some on foot, others in carts, the latter mostly 
 driven by women. The fish-women were the most strik- 
 ing in appearance ; they were generally young and 
 pretty, very neat and tidy, and looking characteristically 
 Welsh in their white caps and bright-colored petticoats. 
 It is said that they never marry out of their own class. 
 
 June 9th. — We visit Prospect Park, by ascending a 
 mountain upon whose summit the park is situated, 
 whence a magnificent view is obtained of the town, lying 
 
386 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 almost at our feet, with a picturesque landscape in the 
 distance, dotted with towns and hamlets. 
 
 At 3 p. M. we resume our tour. On reaching the 
 railway-station we meet with Captain Grant, of the 
 Koyal Navy, who accompanied us on our passage of 
 fourteen days from Hong-Kong, China, to Ceylon. At 
 4 p. M. we arrive at Holyhead, and put up at the Royal 
 Hotel ; board eight shillings per day. 
 
 Holyhead is situated upon an island, or more prop- 
 erly a peninsula, which at high tide becomes insulated. 
 From this point the English mails cross twice every day 
 to Ireland. It is also the point of termination of the 
 great railways from London and Chester. The rocky 
 scenery around Holyhead is uncommonly grand and 
 romantic. The city contains about seven thousand in- 
 habitants, and there is more of an air of activity and 
 business about it than one might expect in such a 
 remote res^ion. 
 
 J^une loth. — Whit-Monday is kept in Wales as a 
 general holiday. The stores and shops are all closed, 
 and the people promenading the streets. In the after- 
 noon we went upon the lawn fronting on the sea, where 
 young gentlemen and ladies were enjoying themselves by 
 moving around a ring, formed by some of them clasping 
 hands, while others, running around the circle, kissed 
 each other, after the manner of little school-children. 
 
 June llfh. — The breakwater, which is built out into 
 the Irish Sea at Holyhead, is one of the finest in Great 
 Britain. It not only protects the shipping, but forms a 
 complete fortification for the protection of the city in 
 
WALES: GHESTEB, BAN GOB, ETC. 387 
 
 case of an invasion, and also makes a very fine prome- 
 nade for pedestrians. 
 
 June 12t?t. — The promontory of tlie Head is formed 
 by an immense precipitous rock. The part next to the 
 sea is hollowed into caverns, affording shelter to innu- 
 merable sea-birds, whose eggs are highly esteemed as a 
 delicacy ; and the only way in which they can be pro- 
 cured is by men descending from the summit by means 
 of a rope tied around the body and fastened to a stake 
 above — which, of course, is a very hazardous proceeding. 
 
 June 12>tli. — We leave Holyhead by the twelve 
 o'clock train for Liverpool, with the determination of 
 taking ship to-morrow for America. After having trav- 
 eled so long a distance, I begin to realize that the 
 world is too large and life too short to see everything ; 
 hence we turn our faces homeward. At three o'clock 
 we make a halt at Conway. 
 
 This is a small town, but it is beautifully situated 
 upon the high bank of a river of the same name. The 
 town is surrounded by a wall twelve feet thick, strength- 
 ened with towers and battlements. The great object of 
 interest is the old castle, erected in 1224 by Edward I. 
 When in its perfect state, this castle must have been 
 superior to any fortress in Britain. It is situated on the 
 verge of a precipitous rock, one side bounded by and 
 overlooking the river, and the other facing a deep ravine. 
 The walls are of great thickness, and surmounted by 
 watch-towers. The interior of the castle was originally 
 divided into two courts, the largest one hundred and 
 thirty feet long, with a lofty ceiling. This old castle is 
 
^88 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 now in a dilapidated state, nothing ])ut tlie walls re- 
 maining. 
 
 From Conway we proceed to Liverpool. The farms 
 along the route are not as large as in some other parts 
 of Great Britain, but the vegetation is prolific. The 
 •scenery is beautiful and varied, and the fields are inclosed 
 by hawthorn-hedges, which are now covered with green 
 leaves and white blossoms, filling the air with sweet and 
 refreshing odors. 
 
CHAPTER XXXVII. 
 
 ATLANTIC OCEAlSr, 
 
 June 14fA.— ^To-day we embark on board the steam- 
 ship Italy, and take passage for New York. Tlie ship 
 leaves Liverpool at 2 p. m. ; distance by tlie course wdiich 
 the vessel takes about thirty-two hundred miles ; fare, 
 for state-room, thirty-six guineas for us two. The Italy 
 is one of the finest ships of the fleet to which she be- 
 longs, built of iron, propelled by a flange-screw, full 
 rigged, of the capacity of forty-iive hundred tons, and 
 consumes forty-five tons of coal every twenty-four hours. 
 Her crew, including ofiicers, servants, and sailors, consists 
 of over one hundred men. We have in company fifty- 
 four first-class passengers, among whom are Commodore 
 Calhoun, of the United States Navy ; Kev. Isaac Pierson, 
 missionary to China ; Rev. W. Linton, Rev. Dr. Collyer, 
 Rev. Father O'Connell, Mr. Sawyer, of Dublin, and many 
 others of note. 
 
 June 15th. — Weather clear, and wind blowing hard 
 from the northwest. At 2 p. m. we arrive in the harbor 
 of Queenstown, two hundred and forty-four miles from 
 Liverpool. Here we remain for a few hours taking in 
 freight and some additional passengers. On the arrival 
 of the British mail, which left London last evening by 
 the way of Holyhead, the ship's anchor is weighed and 
 
390 AROUND TEE WORLD. 
 
 we steam out of the harbor, during the afternoon and 
 evening sailing close along the coast of Ireland. 
 
 June IQth. — Sky overcast, strong head wind from the 
 northwest, and rough sea. Thermometer 45°. Course 
 west; latitude 51° 4' north, longitude 13° 43' west. Dis- 
 tance run from Queenstown, up to 12 m., two hundred 
 and thirteen miles. With the exception of the China 
 Sea, we found the winds and waves nowhere so boister- 
 ous as on the Atlantic. Many of our passengers to-day 
 are sea sick, which is more unpleasant and distressing 
 than almost any other sickness. 
 
 Sea-sickness is caused by the motion of the ship — the 
 pitching and rolling of the vessel, or the alternate rising 
 and failing of the bow and stern. Some people never 
 suffer from it, others only on their first voyage ; others, 
 again, in every voyage they undertake. With some it 
 only continues for a few hours, while others suffer almost 
 constantly throughout a long voyage. In most cases, 
 however, the sickness subsides as soon as the sea becomes 
 smooth, and always disappears on landing. One always 
 feels much better after being sea-sick for one or two days, 
 and its effect is much better for the system than a regu- 
 lar course of medicine. 
 
 June 1 Itli. — Weather cloudy, wind blowing hard 
 from the northwest, and sea running high. Thermome- 
 ter 40°. Course west ; latitude 50° 42' north, longitude 
 19° 0' west. Distance run, up to 12 m., two hundred and 
 five miles. 
 
 June ISth. — Weather overcast, wind blowing hard 
 from the northwest, and sea high. Thermometer 41°. 
 
ATLANTIC OCEAN. 391 
 
 Course west; latitude 49° 43' north, longitude 25° 11' 
 west. Ship ran, up to 12 m., two hundred and forty-two 
 miles. This being the Sabbath, divine service was con- 
 ducted by the Rev. J. Pierson, missionary from China. 
 
 tlune l%th. — Weather cloudy, wind blowing a gale 
 from west-northwest, and sea high. Thermometer 39°. 
 Course west; latitude 48° 15' north, longitude 30° 42' 
 west. Shij) ran, up to 12 m., two hundred and thirty- 
 :five miles. 
 
 June 20th. — Sky overcast, wind blowing hard from 
 the west-northwest, and sea high. Thermometer 38°. 
 Course west; latitude 46° 8' north, longitude 36° 11' 
 west. Distance run, up to 12 m., two hundred and sixty 
 miles. 
 
 June 21st. — Weather foggy, wind blowing hard from 
 the northwest, and sea running high. Thermometer 37°. 
 Course west by south ; latitude 44° 15' north, longitude 
 41° 30' west. Distance run, up to 12 m., two hundred 
 and fifty- three miles. 
 
 Ju7ie 22d. — Weather both foggy and stormy, wind 
 west, and sea not so hio-h. Thermometer 38°. Course 
 west by south ; latitude 42° 35' north, longitude 47° 25' 
 west. Distance run, up to 12 m., two hundred and sev- 
 enty-six miles. 
 
 June 2Sd. — Weather foggy and stormy, wind strong 
 from the southwest, and sea running high. Thermome- 
 ter 50°. Course west by south; observation taken by 
 dead reckoning, latitude 42° 11' north, longitude 53° 25' 
 west. Distance run, up to 12 m., two hundred and sixty 
 miles. 
 
392 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 June 24:th. — Weather more mild, wind southwest, and 
 sea not as high. Thermometer 60°. Course west hy 
 south; latitude 41° 42' north, longitude 59° 10' west. 
 Distance run, up to 12 m., two hundred and sixty-six 
 miles. 
 
 (Tune 25th. — Weather clear, wind fresh from the south- 
 west. Thermometer 61°. Course west by south ; lati- 
 tude 41° north, longitude 64° 43' west. Distance run, 
 up to 12 M., two hundred and iifty-five miles. To-day 
 we have preaching by the Rev. Mr. Linton, of London. 
 
 June 26fh. — Weather warm and foggy, wind light 
 from the southwest, and sea smooth. Thermometer 70°. 
 Course west by south ; latitude 40° 31' north, longitude 
 70° 43' west. Distance run two hundred and seventy- 
 three miles. At 12 m. we are within one hundred and 
 thirty-two miles of New York. In consequence of the 
 fog, the steam-whistle has been constantly sounding for 
 the last tw^elve or fifteen hours, and at intervals fire- 
 rockets are sent up, lest we should come in collision with 
 some vessel. 
 
 June 27th. — Some time durino- the nio-ht we were 
 boarded by a Sandy Hook pilot. This morning early 
 we have in view the Highlands of the New Jersey coast, 
 and then the green shores of the harbor ; and soon after 
 the spires of New York City rose on our sight, all of 
 which seemed as familiar as things but of yesterday. At 
 7 A. M. we ari'ived at the quarantine-ground, where we re- 
 mained for about an hour, waiting for the health-ofiicer, 
 and the city about nine o'clock. After having our trunks- 
 examined, we returned to our home in safety. 
 
. ATLANTIC OCEAN. 393 
 
 Diiriug our sojourn we have traveled, by sea and 
 land, twenty-seven thousand five hundred miles — eight 
 thousand five hundred and twenty-eight miles by land 
 and eighteen thousand nine hundred and seventy-two 
 miles over sea — and here we are at home again. 
 
 I am very glad that we have got through with our 
 travels and adventures without any evil befalling us, for 
 which we shall ever remain thankful. I can but attribute 
 our great success in the avoidance of ills to a kind Provi- 
 dence, which has been over us in all the perils we have 
 encountered by sea and land. 
 
 Of all the countries throuo-h which we have traveled, 
 there is none that struck us more favorably in its general 
 aspect than that of the United States, with her majestic 
 mountain scenery, broad prairies, and grand old forests, 
 lakes, and numerous rivers, with all the varieties of cli- 
 mate, and, above all, rainfall in its regular course in due 
 season, bringing forth prolific crops, which are the great- 
 est of all blessings that can be bestowed upon mankind. 
 
 The making the circuit of the globe is a mere ques- 
 tion of taste, time, and means ; although there is no tour 
 that can be made which is of more interest, for there is a 
 great deal to be seen and learned that can be practically 
 acquired neither in Europe nor America. The most 
 favorable time for making the tour is to leave New York 
 in the month of August ; spend a month or six weeks in 
 crossino- the American Continent, which time can be 
 profitably devoted to points of interest along the line of 
 the Union and Central Pacific Railroads ; stopping at 
 Niagara Falls, Chicago, Salt Lake City, and San Fran- 
 
 26 
 
394 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 cisco, thougli many other places of importance may be 
 seen. It is best to leave San Francisco as early as tlie 
 first of October for Yokohama, by the Pacific Mail Com- 
 pany's ships, spending aVjout four mouths in traveling 
 through the warm countries of Japan, China, and India, 
 leaving the latter country not later than the first of 
 March, for Egypt, in order to avoid the extreme heat of 
 the Ked Sea. From Egypt proceed to Syria and Pales- 
 tine, and spend the following summer on the Continent 
 of Europe and Great Britain. 
 
 We suffered none from cold ; neither did we experi- 
 ence any very hot weather, excepting in the south of 
 India, where, I must confess, it was rather too warm for 
 a few days. The thermometer ranged, in the different 
 countries, all the way from 33° to 87°. 
 
 It is well to state that the journey was made without 
 the occurrence of the slightest illness to either of us, ex- 
 cepting slight sea-sickness ; without missing a steamer or 
 train, without accident of any kind, and without the loss 
 of the most trilling article. 
 
 THE END. 
 
 A- 
 
RARE BOOK 
 COLLECTION 
 
 THE LIBRARY OF THE 
 
 UNIVERSITY OF 
 
 NORTH CAROLINA 
 
 AT 
 
 CHAPEL HILL 
 
 Travel 
 G440 
 ' .W75 
 
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