\ N \ • M MEXICAN INDEPENDENCE 1810 ^^ i960 on^TAnr MKXICO (ITV. Some fragrant trees By flower-sown seas Where boats j^o up and down, And a sense of rest To the tired breast In this beauteous Aztee town. But the terrible thinp in this Aztec town, That will bluw men's rest into stormiest skies, Or whether they journey or they lie down — These wide and these wonderful Spanish eyes ! Great walls about, Gate posts without, That prop these sapphire skies; Two huge pate posts Snow white, like phosts — Gate pofts to this Paradise ! Bi:£,oh ! turn back from the hiyh- walled town ; There is trouble enough in this world, I surmise^ Without men riding in regiments down To die by those perilous Spanish eyes ! — Joaquin M tiler. FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS Domestic Life, Educational, Social, and Business Ways, Statesmanship and Literature, Legendary and General History of the Mexican People, AS SEEN AND STUDIED BY AN AMERICAN WOMAN DURING SEVEN YEARS OF INTERCOURSE WITH THEM. BY FANNY CHAMBERS GOOCH. ttliti) 200 JUnstrations. NEW YORK : FORDS, HOWARD, & HULBERT. Copyright, 1887, by FANNY CHAMBERS GOOCH. Press of J J. Little & Co. Astor Place, New York. ^ ^/s^-e^^^^^^-z- c6ey.=^C<:^>X. TO MY MEXICAN FRIENDS THIS VOLUME, IN WHICH I HAVE ENDEAVORED TO EXPRESS MY APPRECIATION OF MEXICAN CHARACTER AND SHOW IT TRUTKFl'ILY TO MV COUNTRYMEN, IS DEDICATED. ^.^'^^Aict'^, Q^^^fU^ y' ^^!^^ yj'j'at •^&^€'-i.f^ iy»-^'?^5< &/ia)-m^C!-^ "^^.f/^. <2e!'?fes»-^^-^^- y/inOi^Z/' ' *ita^/X€^Ce^f^y^.g:C:^ fVff^e^ ^ ^^A^c >*^^ ,.,.i^^ ^^^ '' '^eyC^. ''{^ty^.^Uff't.^'i^i? t e^'^f'^-tt^ ^ ^ '■■^l^'^^icta:^ ^^^Stcj^^-^t^ /^/^'^':<^:^'9^-^ ,^^!^^^^e'e:z;-t//^'Cc^- — {^Translation of letter from President Diaz^ Mexico, April i, 1886. Mrs. Fanny Chambers Gooch, Present. Esteemed Madame : Having read your favor of day before yesterday, and complying with the kind desire which you are pleased to express, I have the pleasure to send you herewith the photographs of my wife and myself. We are grateful to you for your considera- tion, and also thank you for your courtesy in notifying us of your approaching journey, which I hope you will make with all happiness. I remain your attentive and affec- tionate servant, PoRFiRio Diaz. PREFACE. The descriptions of Mexican life, customs, and character embraced in the following chapters are drawn from a close and interested scru- tiny of the people of our neighboring Republic during a residence and visits among them including in all a period of about seven years. Like all foreigners, I was practically a stranger to the marked pe- culiarities of race, social and business life, government, and religion there to be encountered. In all that I had read on the subject, in books or transient sketches, I found that no one had endeavored to minutely describe certain phases of Mexican life and character, necessary to be understood in order to fully appreciate the people. First impressions of writers are either glowing on account of nov- elty, excitement, and varied pleasures, or marked by unfavorable criti- cisms obtained from a mere surface-view of the new society with which they mingle. I shared in the variety of impressions common to all strangers ; but experience with the people and a careful obser- vation of them brought about a change in my opinions as to the fitness of their government and national customs for the varied races of their Republic. And more than this: a closer contact also re- vealed to me the high culture and splendid attainments of her men and the warm, sympathetic hearts of her women. The longer I mingled with the Mexican people the more forcibly was I impressed with the fact that they are not properly understood by their Anglo-Saxon neighbors. As this thought grew in my mind day by day, there grew with it a desire to acquaint my own countrymen more intimately with them, and, if possible, secure a fairer appreciation of a people whom it has been too long the custom to decry, but who deserve the highest commendation for their works and institutions, projected and carried out under many difficulties. 14 PR L FACE. To accomplish this task, which I felt was a sacred mission and a tribute that I wished to pay to my Mexican friends, I undertook the present volume. I have not failed to realize that the field is new and that it required a more skillful pen than mine to accomplish all that was intended. The details were so numerous and yet so indispensa- ble to the full delineation of character and customs, that great pa- tience has been necessary to eliminate from the material accumulated much that was interesting but not essential to the main design of the work. Then, too, dealing with so many subjects grouped under gen- eral headings, the tendency was to make broken and fragmentary sketches. Every chapter will be found to be complete in itself, how- ever, and all serve to give faithful pictures of the people. Having lived in close personal contact with the domestic service of the country, I have devoted a few of the initial chapters to this unique and, to us, humorous phase of Mexican life, -showing the un- failing inbred adherence to national characteristics. In submitting this volume to the people of both Republics, it is with the sincere wish that it may, in a measure, lead to a better ac- quaintance the one with the other, and that this acquaintance may induce both to realize that they have differences and peculiarities naturally adapted to their governments, races and religions. Each can respect and co-operate with the other in peace and harmony, in- dependent and separate as they ever should remain, fixed by nature ; but sisters as Republics. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS. .\ duty would be neglected if I failed to pay a tribute to the many friends from whom acts of kindness were received during my residence and journeys in Mexico. To mention each one is impossi- ble, because none were met who tlid not aid me in my efforts, either by words or acts, which, though perhaps forgotten by them, will ever be by me most gratefully remembered. To ex-Governor John Ireland of Texas my first acknowledgments PREFACE. 15 are due. He has taken a deep personal interest in my work and en- couraged me in its execution, furnishing me with letters to President Diaz and governors of various Mexican States; to General Henry R. Jackson, American Minister; to Major Joseph Magoffin, Collector of Customs at El Paso, and to other leading personages, and obtained for me facilities for full access to various sources of information. General Hamilton P. Bee and Dr. Halbert P. Howard, both of whom have had a life-knowledge of Mexico, rendered me valuable as- sistance with letters of introduction to distinguished citizens of the Mexican Republic. To S. G. Sneed, Esq., my thanks are due for his sympathetic inter- est in the preparation of the work and the benefit of his cultivated lit- erary taste. To Dr. D. T. Iglehart, Hon. J. W. Robertson and Mr. Sterling B. Allen for many kindnesses, and to Mr. J. A. Hooper, of the "Gould system " of Southwestern Railways, for official courtesies in traveling. At El Paso I was the recipient of many gracious attentions from Mr. R. F. Campbell and family and Mrs. P'annie D. Porter and family. To Major Joseph Magoffin and family I am specially indebted for unbounded hospitality and assistance on my journey both in going and returning. Major Magoffin presented to me Sefior J. Escobar, Mexican Consul, and together they rendered me invaluable aid by having circu- lars printed, stating my object and commending me to the Mexican people. Sefior Escobar also gave me letters of introduction to Sefior Mariscal, Mexican Minister for Foreign Affairs, and anticipated every need in my introduction at the capital. Sefior Mariscal received me with true Mexican courtesy and ap- pointed Sefior Jos6 J. Jimenez to accompany me to various public in- stitutions. During my stay Senor Mariscal rendered me many other valuable services. To Mr. Frederick P. Hoeck, who personally presented my letters, and to Mr. Charles E. Cummings. both of the Mexican capital, I am happy to make acknowledgments. Our minister, General Henrj- R. Jackson, and his estimable wife 1 6 PREFACE. received me with warm encouragement and kindness, showing me distinguished attentions at the legation. The editor of The Two RepiMics, Mr. J. Mastella Clark, and his charming wife bestowed on me many kind favors and hospitalities. Among other kind American friends were Mr. and Mrs. E. J. Gould, Mr. and Mrs. G. F. Mayer, Mrs. J. L. Corella, Rev. J. J. Grib- bin, Mr. 11. G. Payne, Major Robert Gorsuch, Mr. S. J. Blood worth, Mr. F. R. Guernsey, and Mr. and Mrs. R. F. Pitten. I am indebted for many courtesies to Major E. W. Jackson, Man- aging Director of the Mexican Central Railway, to Mr. R. C. Peeples, Superintendent of the Mexican National Railivay, and to Mr. Thomas Braniff, Managing Director of the Mexican Railway, and for courte- sies from railway officials in all my travels. The Mexican Press Association appointed three of its most ac- complished members, Seflores Augustin Arroyo de Anda, Alberto G. Bianchi, and Bernabc E. Bravo, to show me attentions in the name of the association. To these gentlemen I am deeply indebted for con- tinual courtesies. To Dr. Semelidcr my thanks are due for valuable information, and to Dr. Ocadiz, Secretary of the San Carlos Academy, Judge Ignacio Sepulvida, and Seflor Zazzimende, for various attentions. Dr. Antonio Peflafiel, of the National Museum, gave me access to his splendid library and collection of Mexican antiquities, and jointly with his brother-in-law, Seflor Lamberto Asiain, presented me with valuable scientific works. The family of Seizor Tirso Calderon, with whom I resided in the City of Mexico, will ever be held in grateful remembrance for their untiring attentions and tender regard. I am specially indebted to Scftora Calderon for introductions into the homes of many distin- guished people. To His Excellency L. S. Ross, present Governor of Texas, I make my grateful acknowledgments. The book has been illustrated principally by Miss Isabel V.Waldo, a portrait painter of New York, who was in the City of Mexico during PREFA CE. I 7 my stay there. Her portraits of tlic various types are taken from life, and are faithful delineations of the characters they represent. The illustrations on pages 65, 265, 429, and opposite page 183, were kindly sketched for nic by Ramon Castenada, a young student of the San Carlos Academy. The initals and outline sketches were drawn by P. G Cusachs. While the body of the work has been the result of my personal experiences and observations among the Mexican people, in the his- torical chapers I have availed myself of the researches of Hubert Howe Bancroft in his histories of Mexico from 1804 to 1861 ; Prescott's Conquest of Mexico ; also Brantz ^zye.x's Mexico : Aztec, Spanisli and Republic, and Mexico as It Was and as It Is ; also Humboldt's works on Mexico. F. C. G. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. A NEW HOME AND NEW FRIENDS. Tradition and founding of Saltillo — Origin and derivation of tlie name — Opinions vary — Coahuila — Origin of tfie name — Saltillo, the seat of important industries — Making a new home — Beautiful scenery — Calle Real, the historic seat — Architecture — Home in an old Mexican mansion — Doors, roof, windows, floors, keys — Adobe roofs — Water spouts — Relics of Mexican grandeur — Absence of modern conveniences — Fears of ghosts and hobgoblins — A nocturnal adventure — Interesting discoveries — Visit from a Mexican youth — Scenes from my window 33 CHAPTER H. IN MOTHER NOAH's SHOES. Primitive housekeeping — The indispensable mozo — Extraordinary culinary arrangements — The ;:ietatc\ or mill — Pancho's wit and intelligence — Daily revelations. Wrest- ling with a foreign tongue — Primitive practices — Going to market — Mexican arti- cles of food— Street scenes — A familiar face in a strange land — The burros — Retail venders — A cooking-stove — The disgust of the natives — The stove's oration. 60 CHAPTER ni. NO ES COSTUMBRE. The lack of a broom — A friend in need — The cscohero, broom-vender — House-cleaning — Astonishing the natives — Pancho's amiability gives out — He leaves me for his "sick grandmother"' — Pancho's successors — Courteous insubordination — Greek meets Greek — Pancho's successors depart — Peculiar names and characteristics of servants — " Little John " — Wifely devotion — Marital tyranny — \n undressed fowl — Knotty points S4 20 CONTENTS. CHAPTER IV. THK LOAN OF A MOZO AND A TRIP TO PALOMAS. Successive departures of successive mozos — Cosme, our borrowed ii:ozo — We set out for Palomas— Cosine in the van— His John Gilpin ride— Palomas— A typical Mexi- can liome— A surgical operation — Inquisitive hospitality — Inherent courtesy — A Mexican dinner— Embroidery and fancy work— The "Pass of the Doves'"— Our ride home— Poor Cosme I— He takes a mournful departure— His pious aiiios Io2 CHAPTER V. FROM BORDER TO CAPITAL ALONG THE MEXICAN CENTRAL. The Mexican " All aboard I " — El Paso and Paso del Norte — Chihuahua — Santa Rosa- lia, its manners and customs — Dr. Tarver and family — Strange notices in a meson —Stations and scenery along the road-Zacatecas— Mines and mining— Aguas Calientes— Historic associations — National Palace— Public bathing of the com- mon people — Bridge at Encarnacion — Queretaro — Maximihan's monument — Other towns along the road — Memorial crosses and stone-heaps — Nochistongo Pass — Arrival at Mexico City — Hotel San Carlos — The all-important camarista 127 CHAPTER VI. TENOCHTITLAN — THE AZTEC CAPITAL. The founding of the city — Invasion by the Spaniards — The three great causeways — The Spaniards' defeat — " Noche triste " — Atzcapotzalco — Mexico City — The Zocalo — Street — "Street of the Sad Indian" — Street cars — Pulque shops — Inundations and earthquakes — The Rome of America — Churches — Monuments — Industrial art and public schools — Public gardens — Markets — Charitable institutions — Pawn-shops — Theaters — Dry-goods stores — House-renting — Mexican flora — Art gallery and mu- seum—The Viga Canal— Chapultepec— Climate— The Alameda— Funerals— Valley of Mexico — Popocatapetl — Iztaccihuatl 155 CHAPTER Vn. THE MEXICANS IN THF.IR HOMES. Characteristics — Sincerity and faithfulness in friend^liip — Hospitality — How to meet them — Manners and customs— Middle class — Forms of greeting — Etiquette— Gestic- ulations — Family ties — Their charity and benevolence — Religion — Hospitality — Household arrangements— The Palacio mansion — Music— Poetr\ — Manners of CONTENTS. 21 speech — Couriesy — PoHas anA pollilas — Gatlos and ^i^(7///«oj-— Domestic tastes of the women — Their beauty, their education and accomplishments — The children — Their beauty and precocity — Little Alfonso — Boys and girls — Home discipline — Cour- tesy to elders. — The dear babies I9S CHAPTER VIII. FASTS AND FESTIVALS AND SOCIAL FORMS. Harmony of the subjects — Change from Paganism to Christianity — Power of the Roman Catholic Church — Rupture of Church and State — All Saints' Day — All Souls' Day — Feast of the Virgin of Guadalupe — Weird sights and sounds — Celebration of a dia dc santa — Celebrations at Morelia and Queretaro — Christmas — Posadas — Piiiates — Festivities — La China Poblana — Pastorela in the rural districts — Feasts of the Epiph- any, Candlemas, etc. — Carnival — Lent — Palm Sunday — Holy Week— Good Friday — Sabado de Gloria (Saturday of Glory) — Floral festival — Feast of St. John the Baptist — Funeral notices — Wearing of mourning — -National feasts — Courtship and marriages — Cards : wedding, birth, and baptismal — Social ceremonies — Dress — The gorgeous hacendado — Gallantries — The daiiza — Outdoor amusements — Chapultepec military academy 242 CHAPTER IX. FROM MEXICO TO MORELIA ALONG THE MEXICAN NATIONAL. A delightful journey — Charming views — Toluca — Institute Literario — Public school — Hacienda de la Huerta — Distinguished hospitalities — Touching street scenes — From Toluca to Morelia — Tepeji del Rio — Reminders of Ocampo's tragic death — Flotel de Michoacan — Characteristic hotel regulations — Rambles among the convents — A startling apparition — A unique bachelor establishment — ^Climate — Minerals — Fruits — Scenery — Peculiar lacquer ware — College of San Nicolas — Prisons and penitentia- ries — Architecture — Visit to the Legislature — MorL-lian hospitality — Tribute from Mary Halleck Foote — Adios to Morelia 293 CHAPTER X. ACTORS AND EVENTS IN MEXICAN HISTORY. Mexico's struggles for independence —Hidalgo, the Washington of Mexico — Midnight scene and grito of Dolores — Stirring events and closing scenes in the life of the pa- triot — His execution — Morelos, the successor of Hidalgo — Joined by Matamoras — Siege of Cuantla — Defeat and execution — His house in Morelia — The Emperor Augustin de Iturbide — The mysterious portrait — Iturbide's brilliant record — Honors 22 CONTENTS. I shown him — Abdication anil exile — Return and capture — Execution — The grandson of the Emperor adopted by Maxmilian and Carlotta — The mother regains possession of her son — Madame Iturbide — Vicente Guerrero — Guerilla warfare — Capture and execution — The Bravos. father and son — Magnanimous conduct of Nicolas Bravo — Guadalupe Victoria, first President of Mexico — General Santa Anna — His wonderful career— Exile, return and death — Promulgation of the Federal Chart — Benito Juarez, the Indian President — Tomb of Juarez — His glorious career — Don Melchor Ocampo — His tragic end — Distinguished patriots — Bancroft's criticisms on the American war — Helen Hunt Jackson — Intermarriages of Americans and Mexicans — Causes of the Mexican war — Congress — Madam Uiaz and Mrs. Cleveland — General Diaz — Sketch of Ills life and adventures 315 CHAPTER XI. A GLANCE AT MEXICAN LITERATURE. Priinitive literature — The twelve Franciscan friars, the pioneers of Mexican literature — Toribio Benavente — Bernardino de Sahagun — Las Casas and other early writers — Literary Association — General Palacio as a writer — Literary entertainment at his mansion — Altamirano — Guillermo Prieto — Juan de Dios Peza, the " Mexican Long- fellow " — Francisco Sosa — Members of the literati — Mexican journalism — The Liceo Morelos — Mexican Press Association — Women writers — " Maraposa Indiana" — A pleasing token 374 CHAPTER XII. MORE ABOUT THE COMMON PEOPLE. " The SiU-nt Aztec Child of the .Sun " — Poetical contribution by |oaquin Miller — Con- trast between the Mexican ami .\merican Indian — Ingenuity of the former — Con- tentment of the laboring class — Clothing — Fine needlework — Advancement in edu- cation — Types — Courtesy among the poor — Their love of music — The h'pero — The China Poblana — Makinga portrait under dirfn:ultics — Social life and courtship — Mar- ri.age ceremonies — Bridal costumes — Street conversation — Mexican mobs — Servants — Their devotion to their employers — Wages — Novel methods of keeping accounts Hospitality among the poor — Sewing-machines — Babies — Beauty of the juveniles — The evangelista (letter writer) — Annoying peddlers — .\n ingenious trick — Various avo- cations — Characteristic conversation— The lavaiideras — The agtiador, or water-car- rier — .\ncient superstitious beliefs — Modern superstitions — The tamalera — The cii- randera, or doctor — " I became a doctor by my natural intelligence " — Pharmacy extraordinary 3qr; CONTENTS. 23 CHAPTER XIII. PUEBbA, CHOLULA, SAN MIGUEL SESMA AND ORIZAUA ALONG THK MEXI- CAN RAILWAY. .Starting for Puebla — San Juan Teotihuacan, the Me.Nican Pompeii — Arrival at the Casa de las Diligencias — The imperturbable camarista — Puebla — Public buildings — Mater- nity hospital — Manufactories — " City of the Angels " — Cathedral — Market scenes — Picturesque costumes — Importance and resources of the State of Puebla — Pyramid of Cholula — Pyramids of Xochicalco and Papantla — Beautiful scenery — Incidental kind- nesses — Visit to Madam Iturbide's hacienda — Morning song of the peons — A model plantation — Ancient aqueduct — On the road — Places of interest — Storm at Orizaba. 441 CHAPTER XIV. THE VIRGIN i)F GUADALUPE. The tradition — Universal and firm belief in it — How the Virgin appeared to Juan Diego — Her command to build a chapel — Miraculous signs and visions — Building of the church ■■ 473 CHAPTER XV. AMONG THE CHILDREN. The story of Gaitagileno — Lullabies, rhymes and nursery tales — Conundrums and games —••Elpato" 476 The Aztec Calendar Stone 178 (>^ loi.TEC — Colossal Head in Diorite 1 70 fi8 HUITZILPOTCHI.I, THE AZTEC GOD OF WAR iSo 69 An Ancient House on the Viga Canal, and a few of the Passers-hv 183 70 Chapultepec, with Vif.w of Military Collegic in the Extension 185 71 Scene in the Alameda igq 72 Idlers in the Zocalo iqi ILLUSTRATIONS. -/ PACE 73 POPOCATAPETL AND IzTACClHUATL Ig4 74 The Pet of the Household {Initial Ldlcr) IqS 75 Entrance to a Mexican Home 203 76 '■ One Little Moment" 211 77 " He is too Stingy to pay his Debts" 211 7S " He PLAYS ON the Credulity of HIS Friends " 211 79 " She's very' rich, has plenty of Money " 211 So A Very Great Critic 212 81 " Adios" 212 83 •■ He's A Sharpf.r " 212 83 Salutation from Balcony ....... 212 84 " You can't do that now " 213 S5 Interior of Chapel on the Hacienda of Sra Guadalupe Bros 216 86 The Palacio Mansion 219 87 Stairw.iy in the Palacio Home 223 83 The Sala Grande in the Palacio Home 226 Sg Corridor in the Palacio Home 229 go Washstand in a Mexican House 233 91 An Orchid 235 g2 Little Alfonso. " I know English " 23S 93 The Tulipan (Initial Letter) 242 94 Flor de la Noche Buena (Colored Plate) 246 95 Ready for the Fiesta 250 96 An Orchid with Pink Centre 250 97 A Few of those who Attended the Feast of Guadalupe 2:3 gS Cathedral of Guadalupe and the Chapel on the Cerro del Tepay.'vc 255 99 Bits Fro.m Gu.\dalupe 262 100 His Stock in Trade of Gay Pinates. . . : 265 10: The Pretty " China Poblana " 270 102 Love-making from the Balcony 27S 103 Hacendados 287 104 Floripondio, with its Snowy Bells (Initial Letter) 293 105 The Indian Village of San Francisquita 295 io5 Nevada de Toluca 298 107 'Water-Carrier ok Guanajuato 302 io3 An Object of Horror 305 log College of San Nicolas 309 no Monument to Morelos, Calle Real 311 in First P.\tio in College of San Nicolas 313 H2 Soldiers of 1821 {Initial Letter) 315 28 ILLCSTRA 1 lOXS. PAGE 113 The Patriot Hidaloo 317 1 14 Jijsft Maria Morei-OS 323 115 The ICmperok Augustin de Iturbide ... 328 I ri) Madame Itiriside and Son 33S 117 Vicente Guerrero 340 iiS Guadalupe Victoria ■ 343 119 General Santa Anna, when President for the Third Time 345 120 Manga de Clavo, the H.\cienda of Santa Anna 346 121 Santa Anna at the Time of his Death 348 122 Benito Juarez 350 123 Tomb of Juarez 352 124 Gomez Farias 357 125 IGNACIO M ARISCAL 361 126 Matias Romero 366 127 General Ramon Corona 371 12S The Language of the Sword and the Work of the Good Friars {Initial Inciter) 374 i2g Bernardino de Sahagun 375 130 Las Casas 37S 131 Vicente Riv a Palacio 380 132 Francisco Sosa 3S3 133 GuiLLERMO Prieto 3go 134 Sitting in the Zocalo {Initial Letter) 3g5 135 A Typical Indian Village 308 136 Before her Humble Cottage Home 400 137 A Chicken Vender 402 138 The Artist's Revenge. 407 139 A Mountaineer 411 140 Petate, Jarana and Pottery-venders 418 141 Debit and Credit Accounts ok Servants 422, 423 142 " Your Obedient Servant " 424 143 Mictel Mondrecon 424 144 Cradle of a Poor Baby 426 145 A Tortilla Establishment 429 140 (iRFGORIA (,)UIR0S 430 147 Wash-house at the Capital 432 1 48 Washerwomen in the Country 432 140 Water carkiek 433 150 .\ Celestial Monopoly 436 151 vicenta : " i became a lioctor by my natl rai. intelligence" 439 JLL US TRA TIONS. -9 I'AGE 52 A BUN'CH OF Graniditas {Initial Letter) 441 53 A Hay-rick 442 54 Corn-crib 443 55 Casa de Maternidad 444 56 Street in Puebla 446 57 Street and Arcade in Puebla 452 58 Pyramid of Cholula 457 59 F.L Castillo, or " Hill of Flowers " ... 459 60 Pyramid or Papantla 4<')i 61 Aqueduct 467 62 Scenes in the Tropics ' 470 63 The Virgin Appe.aring to Juan Diego (Initial Letter) 473 64 The Nana and the Children (Initial Letter) 476 65 The Good Nana 480 66 Listening to the Stories 4S1 67 " El Pato " 4S3 68 My Window (Initial Letter] 4S5 6g Carrying the Clothes Home 486 70 Potato Vender 4S6 71 A Familiar Type 4S7 72 Basket Venders 48S 73 Indian Mother and Child 490 74 Venders of Cooked Sheep's Heads 493 75 Montezuma's Culinary Artists (Initial Letter) 404 76 The Estiladera 495 77 Kitchen at the Capital 501 78 American Enterprise (Initial Letter) ., 50; 79 Interior of Mexican Episcopal Cathedral 508 80 Simon Lara 512 81 Gen. Henry R. Jackson _ 516 82 A Stray of Cactus (Initial Letter) 53S 83 The Old and New Civiliz.\tion 539 84 National Palace at the Capital 54' 85 The City of Durango 549 86 El Capitan 552 87 A Mexican Ploughman 553 SS Adobe Houses 554 8g An American Miner 557 go Basket of Fruit 55S gi Mango and Seed 559 30 ILL VS 1 RA TIONS. PAGE iy2 Yellow, Black and White Zai-otes 560 193 M AMEY AND SeID 560 ig4 The Tlachiquero 562 195 A Street Shoemaker 563 196 " On Account of the Air " 569 197 Policeman on Duty 570 19S A Company of Rurales 571 igg Church of Sacro Monte, Amecameca 577 200 The City of Mexico 576 201 Scene in Mexico 582 202 The Flags of the two Republics 5S3 ^•-*^" ■^^gtm--^^'^'^'^''-^'^^'^''^^^ "■ ■ MEXICAN r'l.AZA. TOrNTAIN, AM) CATHEDRAL. FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. CHAPTER I. A NEW HOME AND NEW FRIENDS. / A L TILLO ! Saltulo ! Saltillo ! " ^ These piercing cries rang out again and again on the still morning air in the long ago from the ?/' lips of a terrified Tlaxcalan boy away up in the / Sierra Madre Mountains. "■"jV' ',1'' But what do they mean ? ~rv'm\-i^ii!l ^s is well known, Mexico is a land of song, romance, and tradition, and these are inseparably intertwined in the lives of the people. Every noted spot has its legend, which de- scends not only to posterity but also to strangers. As the tradition about the founding of Saltillo lends something of interest to a so- journ of several months in that city, I tell it as it was told to me ; in doing so reserving the right to say that, like most traditions, it has a decidedly madc-to-order air. The little Indian boy before mentioned had an aged, infirm, and blind old uncle. Now, it was a strange fancy of this blind man to take a stroll very early every morning, and it was the duty of this little nephew to hold him by the hand as a guide to his steps, as well as to amuse and entertain him on the way. The spring known in Saltillo as E/ ojo de agua (the eye of water) breaks boldly forth from the craggy rocks, and in its fall trans- forms itself into a pool of considerable depth. The water is as cold as ice, and shimmers and glistens in the white sunshine as it reflects on 3 34 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. its crystal surface the towering mountains and the deep azure of a faultless sky. This spring supplies the entire city with water, which is conveyed through antiquated earthen pipes to the fountains, and thence borne by carriers into the houses. But to the tradition : This inconsiderate old uncle was being led by his nephew, who was endowed with the very same tastes and in- stincts as all other boys, regardless of caste or complexion, the world over. As they approached the ojo dc agtia, the whirring sound of a thousand birds in flight over their heads caused the boy to drop his uncle's hand and look upward, with head thrown back, straight hair standing at right angles, and great, wild, black eyes, gazing at the myriad of birds that seemed to mottle the whole sky. The uncle' having no support, began to totter and hold out his arms, calling loudly, but to no purpose, for his forgetful guide. Inch by inch the old man felt his way over the rough stones ; a step more, and there was a plunge, a scream, and the unfortunate uncle was floundering in the " eye of water." The young truant was recalled to himself, but, being paralyzed with fright, could only scream and wring his hands wildly, exclaiming: " Saltillo ! Saltillo ! " (Get out, uncle !) — an injunction as heartless as it was impossible to obey. At this critical moment, some passing arrieros (mule-drivers) com- passionately rescued the drowning man, and so happily ends the tradition. * Posterity, studying out of cold, unsympathetic lexicons all kinds of puzzling derivations, finds, according to some, that the verb salir signifies " to go out;" .y^^/, the first syllable, means " get out;" and tio (uncle) has, as perhaps in this case, been mispelled or corrupted into tillo, as Saltillo (pronounced Sal-tee' -yd), the liquid // being more euphonious in the Mexican tongue. Others yet believe that Saltillo comes from the language of the Chichimecas, and signifies " High land of many waters." In almost any direction may be seen innumerable sparkling cascades of limpid A NEW HOME AND NEW FRIENDS. 35 water bursting from the apex of the mountains, descending in a crystal sheet, and reflecting the prismatic glories of the rainbow as they go murmuring along to the valleys below. This may give cred- ence to this version. Saltillo is the capital of the State of Coahuila. The name Coahuila, according to some historians, means " Happy Land," while others claim its signification to be " Vibora que viicla " (flying snake). It is possible that this latter is the real derivation, as snake in the Indian is Coat/, and /lui'/a means to fly. This, taken together, may have some reference to the great temple of Huitchiolo- pochtly, the Aztec war god, which was surrounded b\- ,i square wall called aw//^rt;^^'/^' (snake wall), carved within and without with myriads of these creatures. In the minds of those who had the naming of the States there must have been an idea that the bleak and barren aspect of Coahuila was sufficient to cause the exodus of even these not over- fastidious reptiles. In view of these forbidding physical features, the term " Happy Land " must have been given in a spirit of satire ; or perhaps some consumptive writer of poetic verse, enchanted by the fine dry climate, pure atmosphere, and blue skies, bestowed the title in gratitude for their salubrious effects. Saltillo was once also the capital of Texas when that great State formed an unwilling member of the Mexican federation. It has a population of about twenty thousand, and is situated on the Buena Vista table-land in the Sierra Madre Mountains, at an elevation of about five thousand five hundred feet above sea-level. It was founded on the 25th of July, 1575, by one Francisco Urdi- flola, who brought with him sixty Tlaxcalan families who were bitter foes of the Aztecs and firm allies of the conquerors. The city is the seat of important manufactures, both woolen and cotton. Here are made rebozos (a long narrow shawl worn by women over their heads), and also those gorgeous and durable jfrtf/'« (blankets), of finest wool and most brilliant colors, which have gained so wide a celebrity that the term "Mexican blanket" is a synonym for a genu- ine and almost everlasting fabric. 36 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. It has the usual places for recreation, a bull-ring, plaza, and ala- mcda; a cathedral worthy of inspection, also numerous churches, with a full quota of schools and colleges. We were a party of Americans on business, health, and pleasure bent. Our company consisted of Mr. and Mrs. R- , the former a retired banker from a large western city; Mr. and Mrs. A , Mrs. CALLE REAL, RALTILLO, SHOWING PLAZA ON THE RIGHT, A CORNER OF THE CATHEDRAL GARDEN ON THE LEFT, EXTENDING UP THE MOUNTAIN, WITH VIEW OF AMERICAN FORT IN EXTREME LEFT-HAND CORNFR. S and daughter, my husband and self. As the hotel accommoda- tions were meager and uncomfortable, and it not being the custom of the coimtry for families to live in hotels, we concluded to go to housekeeping, as our stay was indefinite, and might extend through a few weeks or months. We found this picturesque old city teeming with interest ; many quaint old adobe bridges span the arroyos (dry streams), and the drives through the orchards in the Indian pueblos adjoining are full of cxub- A NEW HOME AND NEW FRIENDS. 37 erant life and color. The noblest view is from the brow of the San Lorenzo, where are situated the fine medicinal springs and baths which tourists as well as natives enjoy. The drives in whatever direction are full of thrilling historic associations, the city having been the coveted ground of the contesting forces in untold battles and desperate en- counters. But no street or highway interested me so much as Calle Real, one of the principal and most delightful thoroughfares of the city. By a circuitous route and steep ascent it led to the American fort, and, circling to the right over the smooth table-lands, on to La Angostura (the Narrows), where lies the famous battle-field of Buena Vista. Since the founding of the city, Calle Real has figured conspicuously in its history. The patriot Hidalgo and his chosen brave followers must doubtless have passed down this street to meet their fate — be- trayed by friends. The history of this grand captain's career was fresh in my mind, and, as I looked upon this long, narrow, and winding street, I pictured the fearless leader of the great cause of the Mexican people, with head erect and eye as bright as, when a victor, he heard the wild plaudits from the thousand dark brothers of his race who had flocked to his standard. Then the scene would change, and the forms of my own martial countrymen, who had so often passed up and down this street, nearly two score years ago, would take the place of the dauntless Hidalgo. I lost sight of the present, and saw American soldiers, with stars and stripes floating proudly, move rapidly in solid columns of infantr)-, and heard the tread of the bronzed cavalrymen, and the rattle of sabers and the clear-ringing words of command in my own language. I saw the angry gleam of dark eyes and heard mutterings in the strange tongue as the Americans marched up the steep hill to take possession of the fort that commanded the city. Another change : the shade of Hidalgo has vanished ; the stars and stripes no longer float under the unclouded sky. In imagination I see the flag of the French Empire and the eagles of Austria streaming 38 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. over tlie city, and the gorgeous uniforms of the soldiery of two mij^hty empires mingling with the rude, dark forms that look on them with wondering eyes of mute protest and reluctant admiration. Wild carousal is heard on every side, and wine flows like water. The harsh accents of the Austrian and the volatile utterances of the Frenchman fill the air. The panorama moves on. Gone are the foreigners. Their chief lies dead in the stately burial place of the Habsburgs. Miramon and Mejia rest in San Fernando, and the banner of the Republic, with its emblematic red, green, and white bars and fierce eagle, waves proudly over the people freed from a foreign foe and hated alien rule. War and revolution have yielded in turn to the softening influen- ces of well-earned peace and tranquillity. The passions of those peril- ous times are long since dead; our quondam enem\' is now our friend, and an American woman is at liberty to peacefully erect her house- hold gods among them. Both courage and resolution were necessary in transplanting our- selves to this terra incognita ; but the climate, the hospitality of the people, the beautiful scenery, the novelty of the surroundings, which every (la\' afforded delight, would of themselves reconcile one to ex- cliaiiging the old, the tried, and the true for the experiences of an un- known world. The house selected for our Bohemian abode, we were assured, was almost one hundred years old, and had an air (if solemn dignit)' and grandeur about its waning splendor. It was of startling dimensions, capable of quartering a regiment of soldiers with all their equipments. It was one story in height, with a handsome orchard and garden in the rear, extensive corrals for horses, the whole e.xtending from street to street through a huge scjuare of grounil. The distinguishing features of Mexican and Spanish architecture were evident throughout the patio (court-yard), with fountain in the center, flat roof, barred windows, and parapet walls. These latter rise often to the height of six feet above the main structure, and, in times of war and revolution, have proved admirable defenses to the besieged. A Nh IV HOME AND NE IV FRIES DS. 39 Intrenching themselves behiinl these walls, passage-ways are made from one house to the other, until the entire block of buildings is one connected fortification. The strife may continue for weeks uninter- ruptedly, the fusillade not ceasing long enough to remove the dead from the streets. The size and unwieldiness of the front doors were amazing — noble defenses in time of revolution, it is true, but when with m}' whole strength I could not move one on its antiquated, squeaking hinges, al- most a half yard in length, the question of how to pass from house to street became a serious one. The happy discovery was made at last that, instead of two, there were four doors all in one, the two smaller ones within the greater serving for our usual ingress and egress. The huge double doors, spacious enough to admit a locomotive with its train of cars, were never opened except on state occasions or for the admittance of a carriage, buggy, or something out of the ordinary, such as a dozen or so wood-laden donkeys. Not only funerals and bridal parties, but every imaginable household necessit)' for pleasure or con- venience, must pass through the front doors. In the zaguan (front hall), high up in the cedar beams, darkened by age to the color of mahogany, was this inscription or dedication in large, clear letters: " Azw Maria Santisshna." In other houses these dedications varied according to taste. One read "Sicinprc viva en esta casa Niiestra Senora dc Guadalupe " (May the Virgin Guadalupe always watch over this house). Still another inscription in the house of a friend read : "Aqiti viva con J^. Jose y Maria" " May Joseph and Mary dwell with you here." We were astounded at the size and length of the keys, and the number of them ; they were about ten inches long, and a blow from one would have sufficed to fell a man. As there were, perhaps, thirty of them, my key-basket, so far from being the dainty trifle an American woman dangles from one finger in her daily rounds, would have been a load for a burro, as they call their little donkeys. The enormous double doors connecting the rooms were as massive as if each room were intended for a separate fortification. The opening and 40 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. A FEW OF THE KEYS. closing of these heavy doors as they scraped across the floors gave forth a dull, grating sound which added to the loneliness of our castle. Our venerable mansion was constructed of adobe, the sun- dried brick peculiar to the country. and of which almost the entire city is built. The walls were from two to four feet in thick, ness, and the ceilings thirty feet in height. Surrounding the beau- tiful court-yard were many large and handsome rooms, frescoed in brilliant style, each different from the other. Besides these there were many smaller apartments, lofts, nooks, and crannies, more than I at first thought I should ever have the courage to ex- plore. The drawing-room was the first thing to attract ni)' attention, as it was about a hundred feet long and fifty wide. Its dado was highly embellished by a skillful blending of roses and buds in delicate shades, while the frieze was the chaste production of a native artist. The ceiling, as before mentioned, was thirty feet in height, and another source of surprise to me was the discov- ery that the foundation of all this elaborate workmanship was A NEW HOME AND NEW FRIENDS. 41 of the frailest material. These wonderful artisans, in making ceil- ings that are apparently faultless, use only cheese-cloth. After stretching it as tightly as possible, and adding a coat of heavy sizing, the beautiful and gorgeous frescoes are laid on, and the eye of an expert cannot detect the difference between a cloth ceiling and the more substantial plaster with which we are familiar in the United States. The floor of this room presented an- other subject of inquiry as to its mate- rials and the method employed in making it so hard, smooth, and red. Mortar, much the same as is used for plastering, but of a consistency which hardens rapidly, is the basis of operations. On this a coating of fine gravel, very little coarser than sand, is applied. Then comes the final red polish which com- pletes a floor of unusual cool- ness and comfort, and admirably adapted to the country. The mate- rial used to give the red finish is tipichil, an Indian word, in some places known as almagra, an abundant earthy deposit to be found principally in the arroyos. For ages this substance has been an important article for ornamentation, even the wild tribes of Indians using it to paint their faces and bodies. When the floor is hardened, a force of men is employed, who, by rubbing it with stones, produce a beautiful glazed polish. If time were of any value, these floors would cost fabulous sums, as it takes weeks to complete one of them. It required months almost for me to comprehend the manner of cleaning them. "WOULD HAVE EHftN A LOAD FOR A BUKKO. 42 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. The floors of the other rooms were of imported brick and tiles, the former not less than a foot square and perhaps half as thick, while the latter were octagonal and of fine finish, though, like the mansion itself, they bore the evidences of age and decay. We enjoyed the unusual luxury of glass windows, and it was enough to puff us up with inordinate pride to look out and see our neighbors' houses provided with only plain, heavy wooden shutters. When it rained or was cold, however, our ill-fitting windows proved an inade- quate protection, and it became necessary to close the ponderous wooden shutters, thus leaving the rooms in total darkness. Our windows were also furnished on the outside witli iron rods, similar to those used for jails in the United States, and quite as effective, while those of man\' of our neigh- bors had only heavy wooden bars, so close together as scarcely to permit the hand to pass between them. These, I was told by a Mexican lady, were called " jealous husbands' windows." In the middle of many of the shutters of some of these houses were tiny doors, whose presence, when closed, would never be sus- pected. The}' were just lai'ge enough for a lace to peer through, and when passing along the street on cold or windy days, hundreds of soft, languishing, dreamy eyes might be seen gazing out of these little windows. In Mexican architecture the window is second in importance only to the roof itself. For, the next thing to being protected from the rain, is the necessity for the family to be able to sec into the street. The walls are of such thickness that one window will easily accommo- date two of their quaint little home manufactured chairs, and as there is no front stoop, each afternoon finds the sefloritas seated in these chairs, taking in the full enjoj'ment of tlie usual street scenes. The illustration on page 43 shows a sefiorita in the windmv, while on the •I t ^^ "jealous husbands windows.' A NEW HOME AND NEW FRIENDS. 43 Other side a view is had of the Httle window that is opened on a cold or rainy day. The roof being flat, was constructed in a unique manner, having first heavy wooden beams laid across the top of each room, and then planks coated with pitch placed on these, after which twelve inches of mother earth were added ; then a coat- ing of gravel, and lastly one of cement, the whole making a roof impervious to rain or heat, and proving the admirable adaptability of Mexican archi- tecture to the climate and the people. The houses in general are provided with roofs of adobe, and some of the plainer ones in which I became a visitor, when the rainy season was at [^ its height, gave me an amus- ing insight into the freaks and tricks of the "doby." as they are familiarly termed. When there were no frescoes on the cheese-cloth canvas, it would be taken down periodically, washed and then replaced as smoothly as a plaster ceil- ing. But woe betide the " doby " roof, when the rainy season makes its advent. The treacherous mud covering succumbs to the pressure of the driving water, and often the entire room or house is submerged in the twinkling of an eye. Besides the main leaks, numerous little bubble-like projections, like pockets, each filled with water, sagged down the canvas in various places. To my great amusement I found that my ingenious native friends had always on hand the essentials for stopping the leak, such as an old broom handle or strip of wood, TWO VIEWS FROM ONE WINDOW. 44 FACE TO FACE WrfH 7 HE J/EXICANS. which by the aid of a bent pin and a string, manipulated by dexterous fingers, soon repaired ail damages. First, all the little sacks of water are conducted by means of the broom handle into the larger one, where the bent pin has been pre- viously attached to the canvas and also to one end of the string. To the other end the strip of wood is fastened, and under this a bucket placed. Twenty minutes from the time of the first onslaught of the torrent through the roof all is serene and calm as a May morning. Orders were given at once to the woso to sow the roof with grass- WATEK SPOUTS. seed, so as to prevent another catastrophe. No greater protection is found for an ordinary earthen roof than that afforded by a solid green- sward. The roots form a compact net-work, so that it must be an un- usually heavy storm that can penetrate it. The method of conducting the water from the roof is in keeping with everything else. Great heavy gargoyles or stone spouts, weather- beaten and moss-covered, tipped with tin, full ten feet in length, six in a line on either side of the court, answered the purpose in our man- sion. During a heavy rain-storm it was interesting to watch the steady streams of water foaming and surging into the court. I saw a dog A MEW HOME AND NEW FRIENDS. 47 knocked senseless to the ground by one of these streams, and it was several minutes before he recovered his breathing and yelping faculties. The ends of these spouts, in many instances artistically orna- mented, protrude over the street. In more modern houses conduits, a few inches wide, are cut into the sides of the wall and cemented, tak- ing the place of the stone spouts. They are quite as effective, but the quaintness and antique appearance of the houses is greatly diminished by them. In the carriage-house there still remained a silent old relic of Mexican grandeur and aristocratic distinction, with wheels like an American road-wagon and hubs like a water-bucket. In the garden were fruit-trees and the family ///a (bath). The latter was built of adobe, three feet high and twelve feet square, without cover, the water being supplied by means of earthen pipes from the mountain springs. A fountain and exquisite flowers adorned ihe pa/to, a climbing rose of unusual luxuriance at once attracting special notice. It was evergreen, and of extraordinary size, extending in graceful festoons fully one hun- dred feet on either side. We were told that at the time of the occu- pation of Saltillo by Taylor's army this same vine was an attractive feature of the court. Imagine the dismay and apprehension of several American women at thus finding themselves surrounded by so many evidences of ancient refinement and culture, and yet by none of the modern necessaries of housekeeping. In this old city of twenty thousand inhabitants there was not a store where such indispensables as bedsteads or furniture of any kind, pillows or mattresses, could be purchased ; while cofTee or spice mills, cook-stoves or wash-tubs, were absolutely out of the ques- tion. How we managed may prove interesting to those who contem- plate taking up their residence in Mexico, and will be related in the suc- ceeding chapters. It was not by any means a question of money or price that prevented one from being comfortable at the outset. We ladies were constantly portraying to each other, in a humor- ous way, how frightened we should be if circumstances should ever require any one of us to remain alone in this old castle over night; 48 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. of how the ghosts and hobgoblins that were perhaps concealed in some unexplored crannies might come forth in all their blood-curd- ling hidcousncss. These idle fancies and banterings of the hour were vividly recalled one night, when I unfortunately found myself the only one to entertain the phantom visitors. Every other member of the household had gone for a day's jaunt into the country, and was detained from home over night by a ter- rific rain and thunder storm. The servants, supposing they would re- turn, went to their homes, as is customary, which I did not discover until after tlicy had left. In the dead hours of the night 1 was aroused from deepest sleep by a terrific noise. Quaking with fear in the dim light, and gripping the pistol which was on a chair at the liead of my bed, I proceeded, like Rosalind, with a "swashing and martial outside," to reconnoiter. A brief investigation revealed the fact that the fancied ghost or hob- goblin \vas nothing more alarming than a " harmless necessary cat," which had crept in surreptitiously through the bars, on feline mischief bent. By a misstep of her catship there was a general crash of crockery, and the sudden clatter, breaking with startling effect on the stillness of the night, made me imagine that the hobgoblins had really trooped forth from their hiding-places. I had flattered myself that the diligent study I had given the grammar, previous to my going to Mexico, would prove an " Open, Se- same! " to the language, but I soon found myself sadly mistaken when I heard it spoken idiomatically and with the rapid utterance of the natives. But by eagerly seizing every opportunity, however humble, of airing my incipient knowledge, and by aid of grammar and diction- ary, my inseparable companions, I found myself in a few weeks equal to the exigencies of the case, and rattled off my newly acquired accomplisiimcnt with a reckless disregard of consequences. Speculation and curiosity were ever on the alert to make discover- ies in this old house, and at every turn a thousand eclioes seemed answering my timorous step. Generations had here lived their lives of sorrow and joy, and the A NEW HOME AXD NEW FRIENDS. 49 lightest vibration seemed tiie ghost of some long-past sigh or laugh, to which these walls had resounded ; and to me these vast old rooms were peopled again by my own vivid imaginings. To walk twice or thrice around the court-yard and through this interminable array of rooms, seemed as fatiguing as half a day's tramp. In one of these perambulations I opened the door of a room into which I had never ventured before. An ancient-looking cupboard stood in one corner, filled with odd remnants of dainty china, vases, bottles, plates, glass, a dilapidated but highly decorated old soup- tureen, and some pieces of broken crockery almost half an inch in thickness. Man)' faded letters were thrown loosely about on shelves and in crevices. A descendant of Mother Eve could do no less than look at the dates. Some were a hundred years old, written in Spain, and the chirography was exceedingly beautiful. One was written in the city of Mexico, by a husband to his wife. He wrote mott tenderly to the pretty, young esposa, begging her to be patient until his return, which was to be in the near future. Hanging upon the wall near the door was a well-executed oil portrait, representing a lovely Spanish face. The graceful pose of the figure attracted my attention, and the luminous, speaking eyes held me spellbound — the same eyes which have so long made Spanish and Mexican women famous in song and story. The patrician nose, the classic brow, the shapely, rosy-lipped mouth, and the perfect hand and arm, completed a picture of unusual beaut\\ A richly gemmed crown rested upon the dark hair, and in the lower corner of the pict- ure, inside the massive, gilded frame, were the words : "Ana sit digna esposa " — " Hannah, your worthy wife." Carefully removing all dust and cobwebs, I carried my prize to the drawing-room, and hung it over the mantelpiece. I am sure I never passed it without glancing at that perfect face, so sweet and womanly in its expression, and experiencing feelings of mingled reverence and pleasure. Much diligent inquiry on my part elicited the information that the portrait was of Dofla Ana, wife of the Emperor .A.ugustin de Iturbide, 50 FACE TO FACE IVITH THE MEXICANS. the first and only crowned head to occupy a throne in North America since its settlement by Europeans. The first Sunday morning after taking possession of our house, I was sitting in the sunshiny court alone, every one, even the uwzo, being absent. The bells from perhaps half a dozen churches answered each other across the bright air, reminding me with some painfulness of the church bells in m}- American home, the thought of which had filled my mind with longings all the morning, as I saw the gayly dressed populace hurrying past on their way to mass. Suddenly there was a gentle tap on the ponderous outer door. Responding, I found m)'self confronted by a tall youth of perhaps sixteen, fair, rosy cheeked, black haired, dark eyed, and beautiful. He lifted his hat politely and said in good English, " Good-morning, Madame ! " The sound of my dear native tongue in a land of strangers and from the lips of one of them brought my heart into my mouth with delight and surprise. My visitor introduced himself as Jesus, taking care to spell his name plainly for me, and I fear my face betrayed my horror at the sight of an ordinary mortal endowed with that holy name. He informed me with considerable hesitation that he was a student in the college, and wished to call frequently to have an opportunity of conversing in English. Having obtained permission to call whenever it pleased him, he asked if he might bring a friend. Accordingly, Antero P was in- troduced — anotherpromising youth, equally determined to improve his English. They soon brought others, and among my most pleasing recol- lections are the occasions when the college boys— sometimes a dozen — gathered about me on Sunday mornings, with bright, dark faces, flashing eyes, and determined expression, as they wrestled with the difficulties of our language. Their great deference and thoughtfulness for me added to the pleasure I derived from their visits, — for the advantage was mutual. I learned the Spanish while they conquered the English. I could not but pity the other members of our party who so languished with home sickness that they quite failed to reap the i)leas- ure I did from this study of the natives. ,■/ XEIV HOME AND NEW FRIENDS. d' Every da}' I found some new object of interest, and after the house had been explored I spent hours gazing from the windows upon some of the strangest scenes I had ever beheld. Some were extremely pathetic and others mirth-provoking. The j'oung children of the lower classes, especiall)' the girls from five to ten years, were objects of peculiar interest to me. Dozens of these were to be seen in the early morning hours going upon some family errand apparently, judging from the haste and the pottery vessels they carried. Their tangled hair, peeping out from under the rcbozo, their unwashed faces and jetty eyes, their long dresses sweep- ing the ground — and looking like the ground itself — their little naked, pigeon-toed feet going at an even but rapid jog-trot, all formed a laughable and ridiculous picture. Often their hands were thrust through the bars, begging money in the name of some saint for a sick person. " Tliico, Sfiiorita, pa coniprar la incdccina para tai infer mo" ("A cent and a quarter, lady, to buy medicine for a sick person"). If I asked what was the matter, the reply, '' Ticnc ?nal dc cstoniago" (" Sick at the stomach"), came with such unfailing regularity, I was forced to the conclusion that " mat de cstomago " must be an epidemic among them. The school children came in for a profitable share of my most agreeable observations, as they presented themselves before me in all their freshness and originality. It is not the custom for the daughters of the higher classes to appear on the street unattended. I rightly concluded, therefore, that these happy little friends of mine:, who created such a fund of amusement for me, were the public-school children who belonged to the lower classes. They passed in the mornings about eight o'clock, and returned at five in the evening. The girls wore rebozos differing from their mothers' only in size ; and a surprising unanimity of style seemed to prevail. Their hair was drawn tightly back, plaited behind, the ends 52 FACE TO FACE IVI7H 7 HE MEXICANS. doubled under, and almost universally tied with a piece of red tape. Their white hose, a world too short, had an antique look to eyes ac- customed so long to the brilliantly arrayed legs of the children of the United States. Evidently extra full lengths had not reached that country, as the above-mentioned hose terminated below the knee, where they were secured (when secured at all) with a rag, string, or a piece of red tape of the same kind that adorned their braided locks. Those who wore shoes had them laced up the front, sharp pointed at the toes, and frequently of gay-colored material. As their dresses sometimes lacked several inches of reaching the knees, the interven- ing space of brown skin exposed to view was sometimes quite start- ling, especially so, if — as was often the case — their pantalets were omitted. Frequently, when these were worn, they were ver)- narrow and reached the ankle, the dress retaining its place far above the knee. A row of big brass safety-pins down the front of their dresses performed the office of buttons. The boys were simply miniature copies of their fathers, wearing sashes, snug little jackets, blouses, and in some cases even the sandal. The advent of one of these light-hearted groups was always a happy diversion to me. Often they came laughing and chatter- ins in a srentle monotone down the street, throwing paper balls at one another, playing " tag " — it has a finer and more sonorous name in their majestic tongue, for it rolled off euphoniously into " ahora tii iitc cogcs " (" now you've caught me ") — performing many other pretty, childish antics just after some peculiarly heart-rend- ing spectacle of poverty and suf- A GROUP OF MV LITTLE FRIENDS. A NEW HOME AND NEW FR/EzXDS 53 fering had wrung my heart. They soon learned to divine my sym- pathetic interest in them, and occasionally some of them would stop before my window, and exchange with me amusing remarks. They were very bright, and laughed incredulously, exchanging winks and nods with each other, when I tried to make them believe that I was a Mexican. I asked if they could not see from my dark hair and eyes that I was one ; but they refused to be convinced, saying: "You may look like a Mexican, but you can't talk like one." In the course of time, all shyness vanished, and often, when in other parts of the house, the young voices gleefully calling " Seflorita ! Seflorita ! " would bring me to the drawing-room, and there would be my barred win- dows, full of little dark mischievous faces, their brown hands stretched out to me through the iron bars, through which their dancing eyes peeped. When my housekeeping was in better running order — com- paratively speaking, of course — I sometimes gave tliem trifling dainties. Cakes they accepted gladly, but when in my patriotic zeal I tried to familiarize them with that bulwark of our Southern civilization — the soda biscuit — they rejected it uncompromisingly, spitting and sputter- ing after a taste of it, and saying: "iV(; iios gusta" (''We don't like it "), " Good for Americans — no good for Mexicans." A pretty child in a nurse's arms stopped before the window, and laid her tiny brown hand on me caressingly. Nurse told her to sing a pretty song for the senora, when she began : No me mates ! no me mates ! no me mates ! Con pistola ni punal ; Matame con un besito I)e tus labios de coral. Don't kill me ! don't kill me ! don't kill me ! With a pistol nor a dagger ; But lmanhood, Jos6 Maria, the eldest, aged twenty-si.x ; Benito, twenty-two ; and Lib- erata, a lovely, dark-eyed girl of sixteen. She was a charming repre- sentative of her Andalusian ancestors ; the graces of her person added to the beauty of her disposition. In imagination her exquisite flower- sweet face rises before me, her soft luminous eyes, shaded by lashes of wondrous length and beauty, sweeping a cheek that glovv'ed like a lus- cious peach. These friends began at once, without ceremony or ostentation, to show nic the gentlest attentions, and from the unlimited treasure-house of their warm Mexican hearts they bestowed upon mc a generous devotion that brightened my life and made me love and resjiect their land and their people for their sakes. In every circumstance they proved to be animated by the noblest impulses of our common nature, and one of the happiest discoveries I made during those days of a be- A NE W HOME AND NE W FRIENDS. 5 5 wildering struggle with a new civilization, was that, despite the repre- sentation of many of my own countrymen, fidelity, tenderness, and un- tiring devotion were as truly Mexican characteristics as American. It is doubtful in my mind if the people of any country lavish upon strangers the same warmth of manner or exhibit the same readiness to serve them, as do our near-at-hand, far-away neighbors, the Mexicans. At daylight one morning, soon after we were installed in the house of his ancestors, Don Benito, Jr., accompanied by several young friends, favored us with a delightful serenade, in which the beautiful Spanish songs were rendered with charming effect. He was an ex- cellent sportsman, and always remembered us after his shooting ex- cursions, while I received daily reminders of affectionate regard from Liberata, the gentle sister. Don Jos6 Maria was a young man of varied accomplishments and acquirements, among which the knowledge of English was duly appre- ciated in our growing friendship. He had liberal and progressive ideas ; was well versed in American literature, was a regular subscriber to the Popular Science Monthly, North American Rcvieiv, Scribncrs, Harper's Magazine and Bazar, besides others of our best periodicals — and took a lively interest in our politics. To all these magazines we had free access through his kindness, and welcome as waters in a thirsty land were these delightful home journals, where mails were had but once or twice a week in this liter- ary Sahara. After the death of his mother, when Liberata was only an infant desiring to relieve his grief-stricken father, this admirable elder brother took almost entire charge of the little creature, filling the place of mother, sister, and brother. It was to me an exquisitely pathetic story, this recital of the young brother's effort to train and care for the motherless baby girl, even superintending the buying and making of her wardrobe, whicli must have been the most bewildering feature of his bewildering undertaking. Among other things he was anxious to have her become familiar with American methods of house keeping and cookery. I could but $6 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEX/CAA'S. laugh, though a tear quickly followed, when she described how her brother translated the cooking receipts in Harper's Bazar, and then requested her to have American dishes concocted from them ; what moments of despair she had over the unfamiliar compounds, and what horrible "messes" sometimes resulted from the imperfectly under- stood translations. This devotion of brother to sister often recalled a similar experi- ence in my own life. The ideal Jose Maria was my brother William, who had made a like idol of me. His was then a newly made grave, and I had only time to place a flower upon it before beginning the journey to old Mexico. While I had stepped across the boundary line of ages and was endeavoring to decipher the hieroglyphics of an Aztec civilization, which were stamped upon every form and feature that I saw, here I stood face to face with a repetition of my own life. It was but following the promptings of a woman's heart to believe in these kind strangers and to cherish their friendship. In due time I had gathered about me many kind and congenial friends, who vied with each other in contributing to my happiness. One of these, Dofta Ppmposita R , without knowing my lan- guage, began to instruct me in her own. Winks, blinks, and shrugs did the most of it : but come what would, she never gave up until everything was clear. We sat in the patio on the afternoon of her first visit, and among other things was her determination that we should converse about Don Quixote, she being familiar with his story in the original and I in my own tongue. Many of the humorous adventures of the Don were called up by her in the most amusing manner. In rapid succession she mentioned the men with their " pack-staves," the " wine-bags," and was finally overcome with laugh- ter as she said that our grand old house reminded her of the isle of Barataria, where Sancho Panza was governor. She then sang in a low, sweet tone many operatic airs, among them, "Then You'll Remember Me," and others equally familiar, possess- ing an added charm in the sweet Spanish. Near night-fall she arose to go home, saying Pancho — meaning her husband — would soon be .-/ NEIV HOME AND NEW FRIENDS. 57 there, and she wisl;ed him never to enter their home and find her absent. PLicing her arm affectionately about my waist, in her sweet Spanish she said to nic : " In my country it is very sad for you, and you are far from your home and people, but do not forget I am your friend and sister ; what I can do for you shall be done as for a sister." Her husband, Don Pancho, shared fully in her professions of friend- ship, and on one occasion, when a hundred miles away from the city, sent us 2. regalo (gift) of a donkey-load of grapes. In striking personal contrast were my two most intimate friends among Mexican women. Pomposita, like Liberata, had the petite fig- ure, the dainty feet and hands peculiar to the women of that country ; but unlike her, she possessed the high cheek-bones, the straight black hair, the brown skin indicating her Indian origin, of which she was justly proud. But there was no contrast in the exhibition of their devoted kind- ness and friendship. Both were equallj' ready to assist me in adapting myself to the strange order of things and to aid in my initiation into the mysteries of their peculiar household economies. In case of sick- ness it seemed worth while to suffer to be the object of such exquisite tenderness, and experience the unspeakable sweetness of their sisterly ministrations. But the time came when an overwhelming affliction fell upon me, when the night with its countless stars and crescent moon told of no serene sphere where tears and grief are unknown. The shadows passed over my soul without a gleam to enlighten the gloom of the grave. The oft-read promise to grief-stricken humanity, " Thy brother shall rise again," was powerless to console. My sister Emma, the loveliest and most devoted of women, was suddenly called from this bright world in the summer bloom of her loving life, leaving four young and tender children, leaving all her re- lations and friends grief-stricken and myself in the depths of such an- guish as only God and the good angels know. When we came into this world, it was in a large family of brothers who loved and petted the two wee girls with all the devotion of noble-hearted men. But 58 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. the)- had long gone forth into the world, our noble parents had been called to their last home, while we remained together, our hearts throb- bing in unison. Now that she was taken, it seemed to me there was a void that no space nor object of the affections could fill, and the better part of my life was gone. In these darkened and burdened days of grief I can only tell how true, loving, and tender were the hands that ministered to me. The PORTAL IN SALTILLO. other members of our party were absent on a journey, and these strangers nobly filled their places. In the long and painful illness that followed, Pomposita, Liberata and other friends never left me for a moment, day or night, and in deference to my sorrow all were robed in somber black. Every possible delicacy that could tempt a wayward appetite was brought ; notes and messages came daily to my door, and numberless inquiries, all expressive of sympathy and a desire to serve me, from the male relatives of my friends. These affectionate and A NEW HOME AND NEW FRIENDS. 59 tender attentions could not have been exceeded by those endeared to me b}' ties of blood. Pomposita, thou<^h so younijj, as a matron took precedence, constitu- ting herself my special nurse, in full accord with the Gospel injunction to love her neighbor as herself. In the fevered, silent watches of the night, how gently her soft little, brown hand would pass across my brow as she murmured her sweet words of endearment, and how lov- ingly her arms encircled me as she held me to her warm and noble heart. She constantly reminded me of her first visit and her assur- ance that she would be my sister. In every way they all sought to win me from my grief. Indeeti, it seemed that the ministering angels themselves had deputed their high mission to my devoted, faithful, and gratefully remembered Mexican friends. In this land of sunshine and brightness there fell upon my heart the darkest shadow of my life, the shadow of the tomb of my sister, who slept the dreamless sleep in her far-off, lonely grave. CHAPTER II. IN MOTHER NOAH'S SHOES.* HE dearth of household furniture and conveniences already mentioned, put ingenuity and will force to their utmost tension, and I felt as if transported to antediluvian days. I have a candid conviction that Mother Noah never had cooking utensils more crude, or a larder more scant, than were mine. It may be, however, that the " old man " was "good to help around the house." This was before the time of railways in Mexico, the " Nacionai Mexicano " having only penetrated a few leagues west of the Rio Grande. With the primitive modes of transportation which served in lieu of the railway it was not advisable to attempt bringing household goods so far over a trackless country. The inconveniences that fol- lowed were not peculiar to ourselves, but common to all strangers, who like us could neither anticipate nor realize the scarcity of every household appurtenance. The natives who enjoyed the luxury of furniture — and there was a large number who had everything in elegance — had also the roman- tic recollection, that great old two-wheeled carts, towering almost above the house-tops, had brought it from the capital, nearly a thousand miles, or it was manufactured by the carpenters of the town. In the division of the apartments of the house, one half was allotted to us, while our friends distributed themselves among the remaining rooms, on the opposite side of the court-yard, the drau'ing- *In this, the two succeeding chapters, and wherever the common people are mentioned, the Spanish used is idiomatic, peculiar to the class it represents. IN MOTHER NOAH'S SHOES. 6l room being used in common. Mr. and Mrs. R employed a cook and had their own cuisine, the others flitted about irom fonda to fonda (restaurant) in search of sustenance. In the evening of each day we would meet and compare notes on the varied and amusing experiences of the day. However, I am not relating the adventures of our friends, but will generously leave that happy task to them. Progress in furnishing our quarters in this great massive structure was slow indeed. How I longed for the delightful furnishings of my own home, which remained just as I had left it. Fortunately for us, a druggist had two spare, pine single bedsteads, which he kindly sold to us for the sum of forty dollars. At an American factory they would have been worth about four dollars each. One was painted a bright red, the other an uncompromising orange. They were cot-like and had flat wire springs, while Mexican ■blankets constituted the entire bedding, mattresses and all. Pillows were improvised from bundles of wearing apparel. Fancy how they looked, the only furniture in a gorgeously frescoed room twenty-five by thirty-five feet, and of proportionate height! Mr. and Mrs. R were much less fortunate than ourselves in pro- curing their household comforts, or rather discomforts. They ordered two cots, which were covered with a gayly striped stuff. The brilliant dyes having impaired the strength of the material, at the first attempt to lie upon these treacherous beds, both individuals found themselves suddenly precipitated upon the stone floor. No one in the house had anything in the way of bedding to lend them, and in the darkness they betook themselves to the hotel, to occupy beds of iron, proof against collapse. A friend lent us six hair-cloth chairs, and a table which had many years before been the operating table of his brother, a surgeon. It was long, green, and sagged in the middle. A carpenter was employed to make the remaining necessary articles of furniture. He labored on the customary ;«««««« system, and while his calculations as to time ranged all the way from eight to fifteen days, I found he actually meant from six weeks to three months. He showed samples of his 62 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. workmanship, rocking-chairs with and ^\•itllout arms, made of pine, stained or painted or varnished, and upright chairs with cane seat.'--. I ventured to ask when he could complete for us a dozen chairs, four rockers, and some tables. Utterly amazed, he looked at me with a smile of incredulity, as if to say, " What can }'ou do with so much furniture?" He disapproved of my wish to have oblong and round tables, so I yielded acquiescence to the customary triangular ones which grace the corners of every parlor of respectability. It now becomes necessary to introduce what proved to me the most peculiar and interesting feature of home-life in Mexico. This is not an article of furniture, a fresco, a pounded earthen floor, or a burro or barred casement, but the in- dispensable, all-pervading, and in- comparable man-servant, known, as the 1I10Z0. According to the prevailing idea, he is far more important than any of the things enumerated in my household menage, for from first to last he plaj'ed a conspicuous role. Forewarned — forearmed ! The respectability of the household depending on his presence ; one was engaged, the strongest cliaracter in his line — the never-to-be-forgotten Pancho. It was perhaps not a just sentence to pronounce upon this indivi- dual, but circumstances seemed to warrant the comparison I involun- tarily made between our watchful Pancho and a sleepless bloodhound. At night he curled himself up on a simple /r/rt/r with no pillow and only a blanket, and was as ready to respond to our beck and call as in the day. In this house were two kitchens, representative of that part of the country. In the center of one was a miniature circus-ring about three feet in circumference, consisting simply of a raised circle of clay KITCHEN NO. I. IN MOTHER XOAH'S SHOES. ^Z about one foot high. This constituted the range. Little fires were built within this ring, one under each of the pottery vessels used in the operations. After this uncomfortable fashion the cooking was done, the smoke circling about at its own sweet will and at length finding vent through a small door at one side, the onl\' opening in the room. The sole piece of furniture was a worm-eaten table supported on two legs, the inner side braced against the wall. Its decayed condition indicated that it was at least a hundred years old. Mrs. R amused herself by experimenting on the circus-ring — minus the aid of horses, however — a docile native woman executing what " ground and lofty tumbling" might be required in the culinary preparations. The second kitchen contained another style of range equally primi- tive in its design. Along the wall was built a solid breastwork of adobe, about two feet high, two feet deep, and extending the entire length of the room. An opening was left in the roof over this structure for the escape of smoke, but the ,.^_^ grimy walls proved that it failed Si to answer its purpose. Upon - :,}!:, this ledge, projection, or what- ever it may be termed, the cook places her various pottery vessels with fires made of charcoal or small bits of wood under each, and there the stewing, boiling, frying, and crying go on all day. This cook, unlike the one in kitchen No. i, stands up in the performance of her duties. When I inspected these kitchens, it may be imagined that the sight was rather depressing, coupled with the certainty that I could KITCHEN NO. 2. 64 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. effect no improvement. But we had the luxur\- of one tin)' fire-place, to which in my despair I fled for refuge. In this Httle treasure our scheme of housekeeping was inaugurated with results both brave and gay- Among the latter experiences I may class my first coffee-roasting, not realizing till then that the essential feature of a mill was lacking, and that I was at least five hundred miles from any possible purchase of one. Pancho, however, was equal to the emergency, and, going off, soon returned with a nutate. (See upon the floor of kitchen No. 2, a por- trait of this important culinary utensil.) It was a decidedly primitive affair, and, like the mills of the gods, it ground slowly, but like them, it also ground to powder. The nictate is cut from a porous, volcanic rock, and is about eighteen inches long by a foot in width and eight inches in thick- ness. The upper surface, which is generally a little concave, is roughened with indentures ; upon this the article is placed and beaten with another stone called a inano, resembling a rolling-pin. Almost every article of food is passed between these stones — meat, vegetables, corn, coffee, spices, chocolate — even the salt, after being washed and sun-dried, is crushed upon it. Such a luxury as " table salt " was not to be had. Previous to use these stones are hardened by being placed in the fire. The rough points become as firm as steel, and one inetatc will last through a generation. This necessity of every-day life was a revelation to me. The color of an elephant, it was quite as unwieldy and graceless, but its import- ance in the homely details of the iiK'nage was undeniable. It had but two competitors to divide the honors with — the maguey plant and the donkey. They were all three necessary to each other and to the commonwealth at large. Equipped with an inconceivable amount of pottery of every shape and kind, maguey brushes, fans of plaited palm — the national bel- lows wooden forks, spoons, and many other nameless primitive arti- cles, my collection of household gods was complete. IN MOTHER NOAirS SHOES. The first meal cooked in that dainty little fire-place was more delicious than any that could be furnished at Dclmonico's. In his quaint efforts to assist, Pancho perambulated around \\ ith an air as all- important as though he werecr/^r/^of that famous ^it/c'. But the climax of all was reached in Pancho's estimation when I put a pure white linen cloth on my green, historic table and arranged for the meal. He said over and o\'er: " Muy boiiita ccna ! " (" Very pretty supper"). But I discovered it was the attractions of my silver knives and forks MV HOUSEHOLD GODS. and other natty table ware from home that constituted the novelty. In his experience fingers were made before knives and forks. I found my major domo knew everything and everybody ; the name of every street, the price of every article to be bought or sold. My curiosity, I presume, only stimulated his imagination, and the more pleased I appeared at his recitals the more marvelous were his tales. He gave the lineage of every family of the " jailc dcccnic," for generations, his unique style adding pith and point to his narrations. He told me the story of Hidalgo and Morelos and Iturbide ; the coming of the Americans, the French Intervention, and all the late revolutions, until my head rang with the boom of cannon and the beat 66 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. of drum. But invariably these poetic narratives were rudely interrupted by some over-practical intrusion. In the same breath in which he completed the recital of the Emperor Iturbide, he suggested ■ that wood was better and cheaper than charcoal for cooking. With my approbation he went to the plaza, returning in a little while with a man who brought ten donkeys, all laden with wood packed on like saddle-bags. I asked the wood-vender to drive his vicious-looking dog out, when he complied by saying: "Hist! hist! Sal!" Of course I then thought the dog's name was Sa/, but soon found the word meant "get out!" As the dog howled on being railed at, the man of importance again yelled at him, " Callatc! callatc el ocico. Click ! " (" Shut up — shut your mouth, and get out ! ") Constant surprises were developed before my eyes every hour in the day. The yelks of the first eggs I bought were white — indeed, this was often the case, — which for a moment dazed me. as I had never expected to find my old friend, the hen, so different in her habits from her sisters in the States. But the qualities of the egg were identical with those familiar to me ; however, yielding to preju- dice, I rejoiced that eggs were not numbered among my favorite edibles. The difificulties of all strangers not familiar with the language and idioms of the country were a part of my daily experience. Pancho was by that time master of the situation, and although evidently often amused, his thoughtfulness in relieving nic of all embarrassment never failed. Tliough grave, he had a sense of humor. This was made evident, on one occasion, when I had been using a hot flat-iron. Having finished, I told Pancho to put it in the cocinera, meaning the kitchen. I heard a low chattering and smothered laughter between him and the cook. Pancho then returned to my room, and half quiz- zically, half serio-comically said : " Please come to the kitchen." I went, when he placed himself in front of the cook, with his left hand on her shoulder, waved his right arm around the room and said : " Seflora, look; this is the cocinera" — (cookl— " and this," again wav- ing the right hand around the room, " is the cocina ! Do you want IN MOTHER NOAH'S SHOES. 6j me to put the planclia calicrUc (hot iron) in the cook, or in the kitchen?" Then with the forefinger of his right hand moving hastily before his nose, and a waggish smile on his face, tlie pantomime closed with, " No itsanios iisi " (" We don't use them this way "). Another ridiculous mistake I made when I wanted Pancho to buy me some cake, and told him to get louv gateaux, forgetting that bis- cocho and not gateau was the Spanish for cake. Folding his arms, he quietly answered without a smile, if he might presume to ask the Sefiora what she wanted with eiiatro gatos — (four cats!) As the house was already overrun with these animals that had flocked in from all quarters, Pancho naturally wondered why I wanted to add to my feline tenants. Itinerant venders of every imaginable commodity were constantly passing, and nothing pleased me better than to hold conversations with them, which they too evidently enjoyed. Soon after the episode of the flat-iron, I heard the long drawn in- tonation of a vender and paid little heed to him, supposing he was running off a list of his stock in trade, such as pins, needles, tape, thread and other things too numerous to mention. Wanting none of these, 1 replied : " Tenemos bastantc adentro" (" We have plenty in the house "). A roar of laughter near by, and a familiar voice interpreted the man's question humorously enough : he was only asking if I 'vnnted a chiclii (wet nurse). The common people of all ages were always bringing me rcgalitos (tokens of good will), and these were of every conceivable variety. A little girl whom I had often fed through the window, came into the house with her rcbozo drawn closely about her, saying she had a rc- galito for me. I supposed it to be fruit or flowers, and so motioned to her to put it on the table in the dining-room. In a moment she was at my side, saying : -'No qiicdarsc alii" ("It will not stay there"), and going out I found a young chicken running around. To pay fifty cents for every donkey load of wood, as I had done, 68 FACE TO FACE WEI H THE MEXICAA'S. THE WOOD. seemed preposterous; and, as Pancho knew everything, I asked him to suggest some more economical system of purchase. He recom- mended watching for the carretas at five o'clock in the morning. Promptly at tlie hour indicated, I was before the barred window, when I heard the awful screech, thump, bump, and rumble of the himbering carretas. About a dozen in a line, they advanced slowly — their great old wooden wheels wabbling from side to side — drawn by oxen with raw- hide trappings; their sturdy drivers sandal-footed and clothed in cotton cloth, with an iron- tipped goad in hand, punching and pushing the beasts at every step. Here was the wood — the entire tree, roots and all — ghosts of the forest hauled twenty-five miles, rolling down the street on an antiquated vehicle. In response to Pancho's liand-clap, the manager of the caravan demanded fifteen dollars a load, the dollars being the only part of the transaction that belonged to our age. But the wood was duly bought. Pancho had so far held the reins as to all household purchases, but in accortlance with my ideas of independence and careful manage- ment, I announced that I was going to market. He kindly told me it was not customary for ladies to go to market — " the niozo did that " — throwing in so many other arguments, also of a traditional nature, that I was somewhat awed by them, though not deterred. Having been accustomed to superintend personally all domestic duties, to be bolted and barred up in a house, without recreation and outdoor exercise, induced an insupportable sense of oppression. Walking leisurely along the street, absorbed in thought, with Pancho near at hand carrying a basket, I was attracted by the sound of voices and the tramp of feet. Glancing backward, I .^aw a motley IN MOTHER NOAH'S SHOES. 69 procession of idlers of the lower classes foUowinL;, which increased at every corner, reminding; me of good old circus days, though without the blare of brass instruments, the small boys bringing up tin- rear. The very unusual occurrence of a lady going to market had excited their curiosity. The market was a large, pavilion-like building, occupying the cen- ter of a spacious plaza. Little tables and bits of straw matting were distributed on all sides ; and upon these the trades-people, chiefly women, displayed their wares, fruits, vegetables, nuts, and other com- modities. On seeing me, every vender began shouting the prices and names of articles, entreating the scfiora cstrangcra to buy. But the strange medlEy, together with their earnestness, took my breath away, and I could only stand and watch the crowd. In the fantastic scene before me, it would be impossible to tell which of the man)- unaccustomed features took precedence of the others in point of novelty. Notwithstanding the crowd, there was no disorder, no loud laugh- ter or unseemly conduct. The courteous meetings between acquaint- ances, the quiet hand-shakings, the tender inquiry as to the health of each other, the man)' forms of polite greeting, were strangely at vari- ance with their dilapidated and tattered condition, their soiled gar- ments, half-faded blankets, and time-stained sombreros. 70 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. Whole families seemed to have their abiding places in the market. Babies ! babies ! everywhere ; under the tables, on mats, hanging on their mothers' backs, cuddled up in heaps among the beets, turnips, and lettuces, peeping over pumpkins larger than they ; rollicking, cry- ing, crowing, and laughing, their dancing black eyes the only clean, clear spots about them — with and without clothes — until my head and the air were vocalizing the old-time ditty of " One little, two little, three little Injuns." But instead of stopping at " ten," they bade fair to run up into the thousands. Parrots were there by the dozen. On seeing me, some began screaming and calling in idiomatic Spanish: "Look at the seflora estrangera! look! look! Seilorita, tell me your name!" The rest joined in chorus, and soon an interested crowd surrounded me. They kept close at my heels, inspecting every article I bought, even com- menting on my dress, the women lightly stroking it and asking me a thousand questions as to where I came from, how I liked their coun- try, and if I was not afraid of the Mexicans, and invariably closing by saying, " She is far from her home. It is sad for her here." Here and there the amusing spec- tacle presented itself of men in- tently engaged in the occupation among us assigned to women, that of knitting and crocheting baby hoods and stockings of bright wool, and of the funniest shapes I ever belield ! Vegetables, fruits, and nuts of all kinds were counted out care- fully in little heaps, and could only be bought in that way, b}' retail, wholesale rates being universally re- jected. I could buy as many of these piles as I wanted, but each one was SELLING THEIR I iTTLE STOCKINGS AND Hon, ;,. cQuntcd scparat cly , a u d paid for in the same way. I offered to buy out the entire outfit of a woman PULQUE SHOP. SELLING FLOUR. PATTING TORTILLAS. NEW<;-BOVS. IN MOTHER NOAH'S SHOES. 73 who had a bushel basket in reserve, even agreeing- to pay iier for the basket ; but she only shook her head, and wagged the forefinger, say- ing, ''No, sefwra, no piicdo " — (" No, madame, I cannot "). A woman held in her hand a corn husk, which she waved continuously up and down. On examination, I found it was butter rolled up snugly, which she assured me was '•/nsoi sin sal " — " fre^h. without fait". A new reve- lation, but in the course of time I learned to appreciate this primitive method, and that in this climate salt was a hindrance to its preserva- tion for any length of time. At last I became convinced of the per- fect and complete fitness of things, and of their self-vindication. In making the tortilla, the corn is first soaked for sex'cral hours in a solution of lime-water, which removes the husk. Then a woman gets down upon her knees and beats it for hours on the mctatc. Small pieces of the dough are worked between the hands, tossed and patted and flattened out, until no thicker than a knife-blade, after which they are thrown upon the steaming hot coinal, a flat, iron affair some- thing like a griddle. They are never allowed to brown, and are with- out salt or seasoning of any kind ; but after one becomes inducted into their merits, they prove not only palatable, but they make all other corn-bread tasteless in comparison, the slight flavor of the lime add- ing to tiie natural sweetness of the corn. There were tainalcs rolled up in corn husks, steaming hot and sold in numbers to suit the hungry purchasers. I found that this remark- able specimen of food was made, like the tortillas, from macerated corn. Small portions of the dough were taken in hand and wrapped around meat which had been beaten to a jelly and highly seasoned with pei:[)er and other condiments. The whole was then folded snugly in a corn husk and thrown into a vessel of boiling lard. When I witnessed this operation, the woman whose enterprise it was, began singing in a cheery vciice and making crosses before the fire, saying, '" If I don't sing, the tamalcs will never be cooked." In my market experiences nothing imparted a greater zest than watching the multitude of homeless poor taking their meals all around the border of the market. All the compounds they ate were complete 74 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. mysteries ; but before going home I had secured many of the various receipts from the venders. I found plain atolc much the same in ap- pearance as gruel of Indian meal, but much better in taste, having the slight flavor of the lime with whicln the corn is soaked, and the advan- tage of being ground on the nictate, which preserves a substance lost in grinding in a mill. Tortillas, likewise, lose their flavor if made of ordinary meal. Atolc dc Icchc (milk), by adding chocolate takes the name of chainpitri-ado ; if the bark of the cacao is added, it becomes atolc dc cascara ; if red chili, — chili atolc. If, instead of any of these agua mid, sweet water of the maguey, is added, it is called atolc dc agua mid ; if piloiicillo, the native brown sugar, again the name is modi- fied to atolc dc pifiole. The meal is strained through a hair-cloth sieve, water being continu- ally poured on it, until it becomes as thin as milk. It is then boiled and stirred rapidly until well cooked, when it is ready for the market. As served to the wretched-looking objecl.s who so eagerly consume it, one felt no desire to partake, but in the houses, there is nothing more delicious and wholesome than atolc dc Icc/ic. All the stews, fries, and great variety of other edibles were patron- ized and dispatched with the greatest eagerness. Barbacoa is one of the principal articles of food known to the Mexican market — and is good enough for the table of a king. The dexterous native takes a well-dressed mutton, properly quartered, using also head and bones. A hole is made in the ground, and a fire built in it. Stone slabs are thrown in, and the hole is covered. When thoroughly hot, a lining is made of maguey leaves, the meat put in, and cox'cred with maguey, the top of the hole is also covered, and the process of cook- ing goes on all night. The next morning it is put in a hot vessel, ready to eat — a deli- cious, brown, crisp, barbecued mutton. As the process is difficult and tedious, it is not generally prepared in the families, and even the wealthiest patronize the market for this delicacy, ready cooked. IN MOTHER NOAirs SHOES. 75 From Pnncho's manner I am sure lie felt as if his vocation were gone, by the way I had overleaped the bounds of custom in finding out things for myself. Nevertheless, he managed now and then to give some of the venders an account of our house, its location, and my singular management. But though looking mystified, he never left me for a moment, no matter how long I talked, or asked explana- tions. We went into the stores, Pancho keeping between me and the crowd. The shopkeepers were as much surprised and as curious as the people in the streets, to see me marketing. But when the crowd of idlers closed up around me, they were polite and solicitous to know if the " procession " annoyed me. The arrangement of the merchandise and the method of traffick- ing elicited an involuntary smile from me at every turn ; so, if the merchants, clerks, and the " procession " found fun a: my expense, I was no less amused at theirs. - Dozens of viozos bought from them, in my presence, a table-spoon- ful of lard, which the agile clerk placed on a bit of brown paper for transportation ; three or four lumps of sugar, a tlaco's worth of salt, the same of pepper, were all taken from immense piles of these arti- cles, near at hand, wrapped and ready for the purchaser. Dainty china tea-cups hung closely together by their handles on the edge of every shelf, and up and down the walls in unbroken lines; but not a saucer was in sight, nor could a dish be had at any price. Anticipating that I would take a tlaco, medio, and real's worth, like the iiiocos, the clerk took in his nimble fingers a few of the little packages; but my extraordinary announcement despoiled him of his ordinary sales. Every eye was upon me when I had the tcmcrit}- to ask for twenty pnundsof sugar, ten pounds of coffee, and a gallon of vinegar. Sugar and coffee were abundant, but the vinegar was in bottles. He handed me one with a flourish, saying, " Vinagrc dc Francia. We have no other." I began to feel that far-away France had become my ally, having, like me, made an invasion on the " costumbres ; " the /D FACE TO FACE WITH 'THh MEXICANS. ■>■ only difference being, that the vinegar bottles were jolted on the backs of meek burros, or in carts, a thousand miles, and I had arrived, safe and sound, by diligence. I asked: "Have you ham?" — " A'l? hay" (pronounced eye), (" There is none "). " Pickles ? "— " No kay." " Powdered sugar ? '' — " No kay." " Crackers?" — " Tainpoco" (" Neitlier"). " Salt ? " — " Si hay " (" Yes, there is some "'). " Coffee ?"—" 5/ //.?/. " " Frijoles ? " (beans) — " Tauibicn " (" Also "). " Candles ? " — " Si hay." ■'Potatoes?" — " Ya no hay, sr acal>a>-oii" ("The)' are finished — all gone "). Going to market, a matter-of-fact affair in the United States, resolved itself into a novel adventure. The heterogeneous assemblage of goods, and the natural and arti- ficial products of the country, astonished me equally with the strange venders. There was so much that was at once humorous, pitiable, and grotesque, all of which was heightened when I reached home, and observed quite a number of the " procession " in the rear. Once over the threshold, Pancho slammed the door in their faces, saying, " Son pobrcs todos, y sin vcrguoizas ! " (" They are all poor and \\ith- out shame "). Every day the strange enigma unfolded itself before me, with ac- crued interest. My lot had been cast among these people, when in total ignorance of their habits and customs. My aim and purpose, above all things, was to establish a home among them on the basis of the one left behind. The sequel will show how well I succeeded. But while endeavoring to cope with the servants, and comprehend their peculiarities, I found nothing more amusing. Our Mexican friends made daily visits to the house, and were always ready to enjoy with me the latest humorous episode furnished by the servants. I was often assured b}' these friends that the oddi- IN MOTHER KOAirs SHOES. 77 ties of their mozos and other servants had not occurred to tliem, as so striking, until my experiences, togjtlier with ni)- enjoyment, had pre- sented them in a new hght ; and ihat for them I had held the mirror up to nature. This was only possible by keeping up an establishment, and making one's self part and parcel of the incidents as they occurred. From this and the two succeeding chapters, it may seem that I was constantly involved in annoyances and disagreements with the ser- vants ; but such was not the case. Inconveniences more than can be named, were mine in the Sisyphean task of establishing an Ameri- can home in Mexico, but if the reader can picture a perpetual treat in noting the strict adherence of the mosos to inbred characteristics, surely that privilege was mine. As time goes on, and I no longer come in actual daily contact with them, in gay retrospect I see moving about me the phantom parade of blue-rebozoed women and white-garbed mozos. Variety of scene and character was never wanting. If the interior workings of the household failed to interest me, I had only to turn and gaze through my barred window upon the curious street scenes. On Saturdays, beggars were always out in full force, and on these days my time was mainly occupied in conversing with them, thereby obtaining many threads in the weft I was hoping to weave. A very old man, stooped and bent with age, applied to me for alms, when I asked his age. " Eleven years," he replied. " Oh ! " I said, " that is a mistake. Why do you think you are only eleven ? " — "Because I was a little boy when the Americans came." From that date — as I understood it — life was over to him and mere existence remained ; added years had accumulated, but he was still a boy. I soon found that this class dated every notable event from either the cholera, the advent of the French, or the coming of the Americans. An American negro was a welcome sight on one of these occa- sions, and his, good old-time familiar darky dialect, together with the sight of his kinky head, was refreshing. He stopped in front of my window, saying: " Well, now, mis', what is you a doin' heah ? 'Mar- ican white ladies lieber likes dis country ; dey isn't yo' kin o' people." 78 FACE TO FACE IV/'J7I J HE MEXICANS. He gave me his history in exaggerated negro style: how he had been in the war with his young master; had been taken prisoner, made to serve as cooi< on a Yankee gun-boat, had escaped, married a Mexican ; and, after so many vicissitudes, had not forgotten his early training in his manner of addressing me. Foremost among the objects that claimed my sympathy were the poor, over-laden, beaten donkeys ; they seemed ubiquitous, and the picture my window framed never lacked a meek-eyed burro, until I could not separate them from their sur- roundings. They were typical figures, and ^' THERE GOES THE MEXICAN RAILROAD." at last I came to regard any scene from which they were absent as incomplete. They passed in a never-ending procession, bearing every imagin- able commodity. I soon noticed that if the leader or " bell-wether " of the gang stopped, the rest did the same. If goaded to despera- tion by the merciless driver, the only resistance they offered was to quietly but doggedly lie down. Often dozens of them passed, with green corn on the stalks, sus- pended gracefully about them, and in such quantities that nothing was visible but the donkeys' heads and cars, the corn spread out in fan-shape, reminding me of a lady's train, or a peacock in full plum- age. The burros moved evenly and silently along, without an un- IN MOTHER NOAH'S SHOES. 79 dulation to disturb the beauty and symmetry of the corn-stalk pro- cession. Pancho's knowledge of burros was as profound as of other subjects. As fifty of them were passing one morning, he happened to see me gazing on the strange scene, when the oracle broke silence by saying: "■Alii va cl ferro-carril Mcxicano" ("There goes the Mexican rail- road"), adding parenthetically, ^' Tambicn se Hainan liccnciados" (" They are also called lawyers ") ; " ticncn cabczas iniiy ditras " (" they have very hard heads "). At last I was convinced that burros are possessed of an uncom- mon amount of good sense as well as much patience and meekness. Their shrewdness was intensely amusing to me when I saw how keenly they watched the arridro — driver — unburden one of their covi- pancros, and how quickly they jumped into the place to be also re- lieved of their terrible loads. A man with a crate of eggs hanging from his head went trot- ting b)', advertising his business by screaming, " Hjicvos ! huevos ! " in deafening tones. Pancho, at his post of duty in the zaguan, called the - vender with the long tangled hair and swarthy skin. After peeping cautiously around, he entered, when I went at once to make the bargain for myself, and to turn over another leaf in the book of my experiences. I wanted to buy two dozen, and handing him fifty cents, told Pancho to count the eggs. The man turned the half-dollar over and over — looking at me and then at the half-dollar ; and at last handed the money back to me, saying: "Noscvcudcnasi" ("They are not sold in this way") — '• sola- inente por rcales" ("only by reals"). 1 said : "You sell si.x for a real, Httez'os! hucTJOs / 8o FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. (twelve and one-half cents), it is the same at twenty-five cents a dozen." The words had hardly passed my lips, when he turned and looked me directl}' in the eye, with an expression which meant. " Well, now, look here, madame, you'll not take advantage of me in that way ; I know the customary manner of doing business in this country, and there will be no change in selling eggs." Pancho put in a plea for him, adding : " Es costjiinbre del pais " ('■ It is the custom of the country "), which reconciled me. The vender began counting slowly the fingers of his right hand with his left — " huo, dos, tres, ciiatro, cinco," — then holding up the in- dex finger of the left hand — scis — and extending the six fingers, palms to the front, waved them back and forth before his determined face, as in low guttural -^ fiJl] tones that made me shiver, he said : '' JVo, scn-o-ri-la. SIX FOR A REAL. so-'a-mcn-te a sc-is por un rc-al ! " (" I will only sell them at six for a real "), by dozens — never ! Lifting his hat politely, he took his departure saying, "Basta liicgo ! " (" I'll come again "). But I thought he need not trouble himself. Seeing everything and everybody so conservative, running in the groove of centuries, reminded me that I was losing sight of mj' own " costumbres." The little fire-place in which the cooking had been done became distasteful, and I longed for a cooking-stove. A Mex- ican gentleman whom I did not know, on hearing of my desire, kindly offered to lend us one that he had bought about twenty years before, but had been unable to have it used to any extent, owing to the pre- judices of the servants. With the utmost delight, I saw the cargador (porter) enter the big door with this time-worn rickety desire of ni)- heart. But when lie slipped it from liis head, the rattle of its dilapidated parts made me quake with an.xiety. Both Pancho and the cargador exclaimed in one voice, " Caraiidta ! " (" Goodness gracious alive ! "), gazing with puzzled expressions on the wreck. IN MOTHER NOAH'S SHOES. 8i gador. " Pos coino )io ! disgusted Panclio. The cargador was the first to break the silence that followed this ebullition of astonishment. " Que atroz ! " (" How atrocious ! ") he exclaimed. " Que barbaridad ! " (" How barbarous ! ") echoed Pancho. " Por SHpucsto que si.' " (" Well, I should say so I "), quoth the car- (" Well, I'd like to know why it isn't ! "), said the " She will never get a cook to use it, never!" The cook came into the patio to inspect the stove, and she too spoke in a low voice to the men, but folding her arms and emphatically raising her tone on the last word " el Iiigado" which explained itself later. As there was not a flue in the building, the stove was placed in the little fire-place. It had only two feet, which stood diagonally opposite each other, causing the stove to nod and bend in a grim, diabolic way. Being duly settled on its own responsibility by the aid of bricks, Pancho opened one of the doors, when instantly it lay full length on the floor. He walked away, looking back in disgust on the wreck. I ven- tured to touch the door on the opposite side, when, as if by magic, it, also, took a position on the floor ^.9, vis-ei-vis ; the servants exclaiming: " Muj mal lieclw !" (" A very bad make, or job ! "), " ian vicjo ! " (" so very old 1 " ) " Pos como no ! " (•' Well, I should say so I ") they all chimed in, the cook glancing at me suspiciously, and folding her arms as she added : •' No, seflora, I cannot use the estufa." " Why not ? " I asked. " Porqtie vie liace dafio en el liigado." 6 IT WILL GIVE ME DISEASE OF THE LIVER. 82 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. " Because it will give me disease of the liver ; Mexican servants dislike stoves, and if you keep this one, no cook will stay here," she replied. A blacksmith was called to renovate the treasure, but he also worked on the inanana system, taking weeks to do his best, and still leaving the stove dilapidated. The cook took her departure, and on Pancho's solicitation dozens came, but a glance at the stove was enough. Politeness ruled their lives, and native courtesy was stronger than love of truth. Without saying a word about the stove, they would say, " I would like to work for you — you are niuy amablc — nmy simpdtica — amiable and agreeable ; but," — hervoice running up to a piping treble — she would add, " tcngo mi familia " — I have ni}' family — or, " I am now occupied," meaning employed, by Don or Dona Such-a-one. Pancho always looked on with keen interest during such conversa- tions, his face saying, without a word : " I told you so ; these cooks will never adopt your costiunbrcs Ainericanos." The stove was always falling, or some part dropping off. At last one day I went in and saw it careened to one side — both feet off — and both doors down, suggesting that some canny hand had dismantled it. The wreck presented a picture painfully realistic ; but before I time to inquire as to the perpetrator, the stove addressed me : " I was once an American citizen, bred and born. My pedigree is equal to any of your boasted latter-day ancestry. A residence of twenty years in Mexico has changed my habitudes and customs. You need not try to mend and fix mc up — to erect your American household gods on my inanimate form. I am a naturalized Mexican, with all that is implied. I have had my freedom the greater portion of the time since they bought me from a broken-down gringo ; for neither the sefiora nor the cooks would use me. I'll do you no good ; if you mend and fix me up in one place, I'll break down in another. Content yourself with our brascros (ranges) and pottery. Accept our usages, and you will be happy in our country. IN MOTHER NOAH'S SHOES. 83 " You need not wonder at my rust-eaten and battered condition. I have lain undisturbed in the corral for nearly twenty years. During the rainy season, when the big drops pelted me unmercifully, snakes, lizards, centipedes, and tarantulas came habitually to take refuge inside my iron doors. So many different natures coming in close contact, there were frequently serious collisions. These warlike engagements have crippled and maimed me, more than the weather, or any service I have rendered. You will not find a cook who will even know how to make me hot for your use. Take me back to the corral ! Take me back ! " CHAPTER III. " NO ES COSTUMBRE." * YffW^''^ were overshadowed by the dome of a magnificent cathedral, the exterior of which was embelHshed with Ufe- sized statues of saints. The interior presented a costly display of tinted walls, jeweled and bedecked images, and gilded altars. Its mammoth tower had loomed grimly under the suns and stars of a hundred years, and the solidity of its perfect masonry has so far defied the en- croachments of time. Tiie city of our adoption boasted an Alameda, where the air was redolent of the odor of the rose and violet, and made musical with the tinkling of fountains; and where could be seen the "beauty and chivalry" of a civilization three centuries old, taking the evening air. Plazas beautified with flowers, shrubs, and trees, upon which neither money nor pains had been spared, lent a further charm. Stores were at hand wherein could be purchased fabrics of costly texture, as well as rare jewels — in fact, a fair share of the elegant superfluities of life ; and yet in the midst of so much civilization, so much art, so much luxury of a certain kind, so much wealth, I found to my dismay, upon investigation, that I was at least fifty miles from an available broom ! Imagine the dilemma, you famously neat housekeepers of the United States ! A house with floors of pounded dirt, tile, brick, and cement, and no broom to be had for money, though, I am pleased to * The higher classes use the term " Eso no se acostumbra ; " while the idiom of the common people abbreviates the expression into "No es costiimbre." "NO Es COST u mere: 85 add, one was finally obtained for love. My generous little Mexican neighbor and friend, Poinposita, taking pity on my despair, gave me one — which enabled me to return the half-worn borrowed broom of another friend. Owing to the exorbitant demands of the custom-house, such humble though necessar)' articles were not then imported ; and the untutored sons of La Republica manufactured them on haciendas, from materials cruile beyond imagination. Once or twice a year long strings of burros may be seen, wending their way solemnly through the streets; girt about with a burden of the most wonderful brooms. These brooms were of two varieties ; one had handles * as knotty and unwieldy as the thorny incsqiiitc^ while the other was still more primitive in design, and looked like old field Virginia sedge grass tied up in bundles. They were retailed by men who carried them through the streets on their backs. For the rude character of their brooms, however, the manufacturers are not to blame, but the sterility of the country, and the failure of na- ture to provide suitable vegetable growths. Every housekeeper takes advantage of the advent of the escobcro (broom-maker), to lay in a stock of brooms sufficient to last until his next visit. It was two months before an opportunity of buying a broom, even from a " wandering Bavarian," was afforded me, and during that time I came to regard Dona Pomposita's gift as the apple of my eye. •' Mcr-ca-ran las cs-co-bas ! " One morn- ing a new sound assailed my ears, as it came up the street, gathering force and " " ~ ^-- volume the nearer it approached. I heard ""■"•'■ ™" """ * '"'°°"'" it over and over without divining its meaning. But at last a man en- * See picture of '" Household gods,'' for the brooms with handles. 86 FACE TO FACE IPITH THE MEXICANS. tered our portal and in a tone that made my hair stand on end and with a vim that almost shook the house, he screamed — ''Es-co-bas, Seii- c-ra ! ' — drawling each word out as long as a broom-handle, then rolling it into a low hum, which finally died into a whispered — '' Will you buy some brooms?" Had he known my disposition and special fondness for broom-handles — without reference to my household need — he would have brought them to me directly, dispensing with his ear-splitting medley — to a woman for three months without a broom ! On ascertaining that the cscobcro would not visit the city again for some time. 1 bought his entire stock, and laid them up with pru- dent foresight, against the possibility of another broom famine. With a genuine American spirit, I concluded to have a general house-cleaning, and, equipped with these wonderful brooms, with Pancho's assistance the work began. The first place demanding at- tention was the immense parlor, with its floor of solid cement. Pancho began to sweep, but the more he swept, the worse it looked — ringed, streaked, and striped with dust. I thought he was not using his best efforts, so with a will, I took the broom and made several vigorous strokes, but to my amazement, it looked worse than ever. In my despair a friend came in, who comprehended the situation at a glance, and explained that floors of that kind could not be cleaned with a broom ; that aiiioli — the root of the ixtli (easily) — soap-root — applied with a wet cloth, was the medium of renovation. The amoli was first macerated and soaked for some time in water. A portion of the liquid was taken in one vessel and clear water in an- otlier. The cleansing was done in small squares, the rubbing all in one direction. The effect was magical — my dingy floor being restored to its original rich Indian red. Now and then, while on his knees, rubbing away with might and main, Pancho would throw his eyes up at mc with a peculiar expres- sion of despair, while he muttered in undertone : " No cs costuiubre dc los mozos lavar los suiios " (" It is not customary for mozos to wash floors "). "NO ES COSTUMBKE." 8/ Insatiable curiosity is the birthright of the poor of Mexico, and on this remarkable day they gathered about the windows until not an- other one could find room — talking to Pancho, who looked as if already under sentence for an infraction of the criminal code. They made strange motidns with their fingers, exclaiming at the same time: " Es 7ina vcrgucjiza cl viozo haccr talcs cosas ! " ( " It is a shame for a mozo to do such things! ") Others replied by saying : "£s ?in insiilto ! " (" It is an insult ! "), while others took up the argument of the case by say- ing: " Por jw/z/ci-A' <7«r j/" (" Why, of course it is"). But all this did not cause Pancho to give me a rude look or an impertinent word. The floor now looked red and shiny, the windows were clear and glistening, and the six hair-cloth chairs stood grimly along the wall, in deference to the custom. My little friend took her departure, and Pancho moved lamely about, as if stiffened by his arduous labor. In all my housekeeping experiences nothing ever occurred which for novelty was comparable to the events of that morning. I felt sure that when Mother Noah descended from Mount Ararat, and assumed the responsibilities of housekeeping — or more properly tent- keeping — on the damp plain, however embarrassing the limitation of her equipments may have been, she was at least spared the provoca- tion of a scornful and wondering audience, greeting her efforts on every side with that now unendurable remark, "No cs costiinibrcy I afterward learned the cause of the commotion, when it transpired that such services as floor-cleaning are performed, not by the mozo, but by a servant hired for the occasion, outside the household. In a few moments my lavandcra — washerwoman — entered, accom- panied by her two pretty, shy little girls. Having complimented the fresh appearance of the house, — Pancho now and then explaining what he had done, — she informed me that the following day would be the dia dc santo — saint's day — of one of her bright-eyed chiquitas, and "hay costumbrc" (" there is a custom") of receiving tokens on these days from interested friends. Acting upon this hint, I went to my bedroom, followed by Juana and the niiias, who displayed great sur- prise at every step. My red and yellow covered beds they tapped 88 FACE TO FACE WITH 'THE MEXICANS. and talked to as if they had been animate things, calhng them, " camas bonitas, coloradas y amarillas ! " (" pretty beds, red and }'el- low ! ") I turned the bright blankets over, that they might see the springs, and the sight utterly overcame them. Their astonishment at the revelation of such mysterious and luxurious appendages made them regard me with mingled awe, astonishment, and suspicion. The mother struck the springs with her fists, and as the sound rang out and vibrated, the children retreated hastil)', shaking with alarm. Wishing to conform to the customs, and remembering Juana's hint, I unlocked my " Saratoga." The cliiquitas stood aside, fearing, I suppose, that from the trunk some frightful apparition might spring forth. When the lid went back they exclaimed : " Valgamc Dios ! " (" Help me, God "), and crossed themselves hastily, as if to be pre- pared for the worst. I invited them to come near, at the same time opening a compartment filled with bright flowers and ribbons. This was a magnet they could not resist, and overcoming their fears, they came and stood close to the trunk, now and then touching the pretty things I exhibited to their wondering eyes. I gave each of them a gay ribbon, and while they were talking delightedly and caressing the pretty trifles, by some mischance the fastening of the upper tray lost its hold. Down it came with a crash — being still heavily packed — and away went the children, screaming and crying, one taking one direction, the other another. We went in pursuit of them, and when found, one was crouching down in the court-yard under a rose-bush, while the other stood in ter- ror behind the heavy parlor door. Both were shaking, their teeth chat- tering, while they muttered something about " cl diablo ! d diablo ! " . By this time I understood the line which people of this class in Mexico unflinchingly draw between their own humble station and mine, yet I felt moved to treat the frightened children with the same hospitality which in my own land would have proved soothing under similar circumstances. Acting upon this inspiration, I went quickly and brought a basin of water to wash their tear-stained faces. 'NO ES C0STU3/BJiE." 89 NO ES COSTUMBRE. To my utter surprise, they exclaimed in tlie same breath : " A'o lo pcr- inito / " (" We cannot permit it ! ") " A^o cs costuinbrc." The motlier approached me with an expression of deep con- cern and seriousness in her eyes, and with her forefinger raised in gentle admonition. Looking me earnestly in the face, she began moving her finger slowly from side to side directly before my eyes, saying : " Oiga, Scfiorita, scpa V. que en esta ticrra, cnando iiosotros los Mexieanos " (referring of course to her own class) " teiie- mos el catarro" (emiphasizing the last word on G sharp), " nunca iws lavainos las cams " (" Listen to me, my good lady, in this country, when we have the catarrh (meaning a bad cold), we never put water on our faces "). "Why not?" I asked. " Porque no estanws acostumbradas, y por cl clinia, sale mas mala la eiifermedad" (" Because we are not accustomed to it, and on account of the climate, the sickness is made worse "). Thus ended the dialogue. But the children did not hold me re- sponsible for their fright, and bade me a kindly adios, promising to return again, a promise fulfilled every week, but on no account would they ever venture near that trunk again. Pancho was determined to give to us and our belongings, as far as possible, the exterior appearance of the " eostunibres." On entering my room after a little absence, one day, I found him straining every nerve and panting for breath. He had made a low bench, and was trying to place my Saratoga on it, but his strength was not equal to the task. The explanation came voluntarily that, on account of the 90 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. aniuialitos, it was customary for families to keep trunks on benches or tables. I soon found the animalitos had reference to the various bugs and scorpions which infest the houses, and all trunks were really kept as Pancho said. As time passed, Pancho constituted himself our instructor and guide in every matter possible, including both diet and health. He warned us against the evil effects of walking out in the sun after ten o'clock in the morning, and especially enjoined upon us not to drink water or wash our faces on returning, as catarrh and headache would be sure to follow. Supposing this only the superstition of an igno- rant servant, I took a special delight in taking just such walks, and violating these rules, but every time I paid the forfeit in a cold and headache, according to prediction. I was now satisfied that Pancho was not only wise as a serpent and harmless as a dove, blest with a keen eye of discrimination, but also a first-class health officer, and in the movement of his forefinger lay tomes of reason and good sense. But I had soon to discover that he would have no infringement of his privileges ; and, come what would, he was determined to have his pilon in the market. The servants who came and went often warned me that under no consideration must I go to market, but this was one of my home cus- toms, and I could see no reason for its discontinuance. The system of giving the pilot (fee) to the servants, by merchants and market- people, as I already knew, would be a stumbling-block in my wa\-. I had discussed in Pancho's presence my determination to go regular- ly, when I fancied I saw a strange light come into his eyes, which soon explained itself. He came humbly before me, in a short time, hat in hand, his face bearing the sorrowful, woe-begone look of one in the depths of an overwhelming calamity, saying, that a cart had run over his grandmother, and he would have to leave. He had been so kind and considerate in every way — never tiring of any task he had to perform — and so faithful, that I would prove my sympathy and good will to him by an e.xtra sum — outside his wages — which might be a blessing, and aid in restoring his aged grandmother. He " jyo es costumbre:- 93 walked off, as if distressed beyond measure, at the same time assuring me that he would send his comadrita (Httle godmother of his child- ren) and her husband, who would serve me well. They came, but it was unfortunate for Pancho. The woman was an inveterate talker, and soon informed me that she was not the comadrita of his children ; nor had a cart run over his grandmother ; in fact, he had none, as she had died before Pancho was born. This was a new phase of the subject, but I was not long in solving the enigma. He had been goaded long enough by my American methods; he had become the butt of ridicule from his friends, and now he would assert himself. However well he was treated in our house, to be called upon to surrender the most precious boon of all his '' costumbrcs " — the market fees — never! But to wound my feelings in leaving was far from his wishes, so he shrewdly planned and carried out the tragic story of the mishap to his grandmother. The comadrita introduced herself with chastened dignity as Jesu- sita Lopez ; but with head loftily erect, and an air of much conse- quence, informed me that the name of her viarido — (husband) — was Don Juan Bautista (John the Baptist), servidores de V. — ("your obedient servants"). She smiled at every word, a way she had of assuring me of her delight in being allowed to serve me, but at the same time, glanced ominously at the cooking-stove. The smile lengthened into a broad grin when Don Juan Bautista came in sight; in her eyes he was "king- doms, principalities, and powers." Together they examined the stove — talking in undertone — stooping low and scrutinizing every compart- ment. At last Don Juan Bautista arose, and turning to me said, " Je- susita cannot cook on this mdquina Americana" (American machine). "Why?" I asked. He straightened himself up to the highest point, half on tip toe, at the same time nodding his head, and point- ing his forefinger at Jesusita, emphatically replied: " Because it will give her disease of the \\MQX—como siempre — as always, with the servants here." 94 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. On going to the kitchen a little later, I was surprised to see the gentle Jesusita seated in the middle of the floor, by a charcoal fire, with all my pottery vessels in a heap beside her. Meats, vegetables, and water were all at hand, and she was busily engaged in prepara- tions for dinner. I told her to come and see how well she could cook on that American machine, but she only answered, " No cs costuni- brc ; " besides, " Don Juan Bautista said it would give her the cnfcr- uicdad, or sickness, before mentioned — and no man knew more than he" — which meant I should use my own machine. I called upon Don Juan Bautista to go with me to market, when he at once entered into a lengthy discourse about ladies going to such places ; that the jcnte dccente (people of pedigree) never did such things ; that " the people in the streets and markets would talk much and say many things." But of this I had already had a foretaste. I was about to lead the way through the big door, when Jesusita came forward and laid her soft hand upon me, saying: '■ Seflora, do not go; Juan knows better than you about such busi- ness. In this country ladies like you send the mozo." But I was proof against her persuasive eloquence. To surrender my entire nationality and individu- ality was not possible for a good American. The pair talked aside in low undertone, which I watched with feigned indifference and half-closed eyes. Jesusita glanced com- miseratively at me, as if she had used her best efforts to no purpose ; A HUNGRY la'PCHA-^ER, 'yVO ES COSTUMBREP 95 but Don Juan Bautista threw his most determined and unrelenting expression upon me, as if to say : " Well, she has had enough warn- ing; now the responsibility rests on her own shoulders ! " He looked back at Jesusita as he stepped from the door, nodding his head — " Weil, — I will go ; but she will wish she had not gone ! " In the market Juan Bautista never left me for a moment, inspecting closely everything I bought — now and then throwing in a word when he thought I was paying too much. He counted every cent as fast as I paid it out, and noted every article placed in the basket. I had nearly completed my purchases, and was talking to a woman about the prospect for butter — regretting the difficulty of getting it, — when she leaned across the table, waggling that tireless forefinger at me, saying, " En cstc ticinpo ya no hay, no cs costninbrc " (" At this time of the year there is none"), Juan Bautista chiming in (with the inter- minable waggle of his forefinger also), " No ! no hay ! " (" No, indeed, there is none"). The last purchase was made, and I was about closing my purse, when glancing up, I saw Juan Bautista's great merciless eyes .,»- ^,--''--^iE^ fixed upon me, while he said in a firm voice : " But, mi pilon, Seilora ! " This is tlie custom of the country. If you stay at home, I get my pilon from the j merchants and market people ; if you come — I must have it any- how. A wrangle was impossible, and handing him dos rcalcs (twenty-five cents), I went home a far wiser woman. Jesusita looked proudly upon the towering form of Juan Bautista as he entered the portal — basket in one hand, dos realcs in the other. Not a word was spoken between them, but looks told volumes. She knew what Juan could do, and he had proved to her his ability to cope with the stranger from any part of the world. To myself I confessed NO.' NO hay: (theke is none.) 9^ FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. that in Don Juan Bautista I had found a foeman worthy of my steel. I asked him to light the fire in the stove and I would make an- other effort to instruct Jesusita in its management. He went about it, while I withdrew for a few moments to my room. Very soon I noticed that the house was full of smoke. Supposing it to be on fire, I ran to the kitchen, which was in a dense fog, but no fire visible. Nor was Jesusita or Don Juan Bautista to be found. The cause of the smoke was soon discovered. He had built the fire in the oven, and closed the doors ! I clapped my hands for them, according to custom ; but they came not. I then found them sitting in the shady court ; Jesusita's right arm lay confidingly on Juan Bautista's big left shoulder, as she looked up entreatingly at the harsh countenance of the arbiter of her fate. I gleaned from their conversation that she wished to remain, but her marido was evidently bent on going. On my approach they rose politely, and Juan Bautista delivered the valedictory, assuring me in pleasant terms of their good-will ; and it was not the pilon business — tliat had been settled — but the certainty that Jesusita's health would be injured by using the cooking-stove decided him. He said they would go to their " pobre casa " — I knew they had none ; then gathering up their goods and chattels, with the unvarying politeness of the country, ''Hasta otro vista " (" Until I see you again "), I'ajftz r. con Dios ! " (" May God be with you ! "), they stepped lightly over the threshold — looked -up and down the street, uncertain which way to go — then out they went into the great busy world. Thus dis- appeared forever from my sight Pancho's comadnta. In every new servant we employed new characteristics were de- veloped. All agreed in their leading cosiumbres, yet differed in the manner of carrying them into effect, while their quaintness and indi- viduality afforded me constant entertainment. Some came humbly, giving only one name, while others used much formality, never failing to give the prefix Don or Dorta. Their names were as puzzling as their hereditary customs. I found " NO ES costumbrk: 97 PIO QUINTO (PIUS V.) AS A DOOR-KEEPER. that while the Southern negro had been shrewd in appropriating the names of such great men as George Washington, Henry Clay, and Thomas Jefferson, the Mexican ser- vants had hkewisc availed them- selves of the names of their own great men. 1 hired Miguel Hidalgo twice, Porfirio Diaz once, Manuel Gonzales three times, as also numer- ous others. But when a little, old, weazened, solemn-looking man, with a face as sanctimonious as an Aztec deity, wanted employment, and gave his name as " PioQuinto" (Pius v.), assuring me he would guard well my front door, he quite took my breath away. Among the many who came immediately under my observation was a newly married pair who had walked a hundred miles, seeking employment. They had neither beds nor bedding; nor, in fact, any- thing save the soiled, tattered clothing they wore. The wife's name was Juanita, and knowing that Juan meant John, I then supposed that the addition of the ita, signifying little, made it Little John ; but a further knowledge of names and idioms revealed the fact that Juana was Jane, and Juanita little Jane. But I began by calling her Little John, and so continued as long as she was in my employ. The diminutive was peculiarly appro- priate. I see her now — this patient, docile, helpful child-\\oman. Her wealth of shining black hair hung in a long plait ; her eyes, soft, yet glowing with a strange, peculiar, half-human, half-animal fire. When the rcbozo fell from her shoulders, a dainty figure was re- vealed — the contour exquisitely rounded. Her hand and arm would have delighted an artist for a model. Her step on the stone floor was light and free — noiseless as that of a kitten. Her voice was plaintive, sweet, and low, accompanied by a manner so gentle, so humble — ex- 98 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. pressing without saying, " May I do something for you ? " If I were sick, Little John would take her place on the floor by the bedside, hold my hands, stroking them tenderly, bathe my brow and feet, murmuring in pathetic tones, "Alt pobre Scilora ! " ('' My poor lady or madame "), whicli finall)' died away on half-parted lips, with " Pobrccita ! " (" Poor little thing! ") I was curious about her family ties, and asked her of her people, a hundred miles away. "Have you a father and mother?" said I one day. The little form swayed back and forth. She made a low wail — the most pitiful heart-cr\' — a smothered pent-up sob, laden with A STKEET SCENE. all the griefs of Little John's orphaned life. With tearful eyes and bowed head, clasping my hands, she wailed out again and again, " Muertos ! " (" Dead ! ") " iVv /ciigo uias que uii iiiariiio ! " (" I have only my husband "). The poor little creature's story was told. In consideration of my many difficulties in this line, I was glad to give them employment, when, according to custom, they solicited a portion of their wages in advance. Having received it, the wife, ig- noring her own great needs, bought material for clothing for her hus- band. She borrowed my scissors; and I, curious to see how she would manage the cutting, went to her room to note the process. As thought Pancho about " fingers having been made before knives "^\'6' £S CO^rUMHKE." 99 and forks," so thought this yown'g pobre about seats, as she sat, tailor fashion, on the dirt floor. Such measuring and calculating as she had, in order to get two shirts out of three yards and a half! I laughed until I cried over her dilemma, as well as over the solicitude of her spouse about the result. He was evidently deeply interested. She was only fourteen years of age, wliich gave an additional interest and a touching pathos to her anxious devotion. I thought to myself: "Woman-like, you will give your last farthing, take sleep from your eyes, even die, for the man you love ! " • Slie finally cut out the shirts, the material being heavy brown domestic, and with the same untiring earnestness drew threads, made tiny tucks in the bosom, and when they were completed, brought them to me for inspection. More exquisite stitching or more perfectly made garments I never saw; but, as might be imagined, they would have been a close fit on a mere boy. This, however, was no impediment to the enthusiastic zeal of this interesting pair, and the shirts were duly worn by his lordship. All the money which they earned jointly, with commendable un- selfishness on her part went for his adornment, she continuing, with the aid of a calico dress which I gave her, the possessor of one suit and a half. With the same ever predominating feminine instinct, shoes were purchased for the husband ; and very soon he was strutting about the premises as if monarch of all he surveyed. In every possible way he made pretexts for errands that he might show off his clothes. His peacock strut was inimitably funn)-, ;in'-\. The prices for rooms are— for single rooms three leals per day, lor double rooms four reals (fifty cents) per day. For each room, guests are entitled to two animals; all in excess of two will be charged three and a quarter cents per head per day for each animal. This charge is for standing room only, feed beim' extra. " Carriages, wagons, and other vehicles will be charged one re.il per day, each. '■ 4th. The owner of this establishment is not responsible for objects lost from the rooms of travelers, or animals, or anything else, unless directly delivered to tlie care of the manager or left in the house." The room.s at three reals per day were in front, and those for foiu', in the rear, near the horses. The /(■?//(? of this meson hatl numerous posts in the ground, which I was assured were placed there for theatrical purposes. In the cen- ter of the open square was the only public hall of the town, and at the end, quite near the horses, a stage had been constructed with mov- able scenery, having its sills lashed to the floor by maguey ropes. On gala nights a canvas is stretched over the poles, as a cover ; and with numerous lights, and the customary decorations, a brilliant effect is produced. With many regrets my two weeks' delightful sojourn at the hospit- TOP OF KITCHEN CHI.MNEV IN SANTA ROSALIA. 134 FACE TO FACE WITIf THE MEXICANS. able home of Dr. and Mrs. Charles Tarver terminated, and the journey to the capital continued. Jimenez is the first station, situated in the midst of a vast plain, and contains but one or two solitary houses. Parral, a fine mining district, is about fifty miles distant, and has already attracted the attention of American enterprise. Villa Lerdo is the next station ; the town proper, however, is located about two miles distant, but conveyances are always there to trans- port passengers on the arrival of trains, and the railroad company has a fine eating-house there. It is located in the State of Durango, in the " Laguna Country," generally known as the best cotton-producing region, the soil and climate being so favorable that the plants need renewal only once in several years. From thirty to forty thousand bales of cotton are annually shipped. The capital of the State is Durango, more than one hundred miles away. After leaving Villa Lerdo, we have more green valleys, more water, and stronger evidences of the fertility of the country. Both the types of people and the face of the country change as we go farther inland. More of the pure Indian blood is visible. Boundary landmarks are seen on either side of the railway, two or three feet high, built of adobe or stone, and having octagonal-shaped, bright-painted caps. They more resembled grim tombstones, leaving off the colored caps, than the purpose for which they were constructed. As we speed along the vast table-lands, over the smooth broad- gauge Central, all looks restful in its solitude. But such dreary stretches of country, without apparently an inhabitant! Now and then an Indian, black as charcoal, stands motionless, crook in hand, in tlie midst of his little flock, gazing at the swiftly advancing and receding train-p-his big hat tilted back, framing his face — his clothing of iiianta giving him a ghost-like appearance. For centuries the table-lands have been the chief highways and avenues of commerce. They are strangely modeled, and extend over a territory perhaps fift)' to one hundred miles in width from El Paso *4u^ UENUlNi. THr.lK WEARV WAY. FRO.V BORDER TO CAPITAL ALOXG THE MEXICAN CE.XTRAL. 137 to the ticrra ca/icii/c, near two thousand miles, as smooth as a floor, broken only now and then by a river or arroya or barranca. Moun- tains on either side rise and tower nearer or more remote as the table- land narrows or widens. The mountains are dome-shaped and suj^^. gest a striking analogy between nature's economy and the structural skill displayed by man. Mountains and churches are alike dome- shaped. There is an absence of large and navigable rivers, inland lakes and other water-courses. But there are many beautiful valleys. After a dreary desert of alkaline sand, parched by scorching winds, round the turn of the road appears a lovely vision of a sweet and peaceful val- ley, with a picturesque village or city resting in it like a jewel in its setting. After leaving Fresnillo, a once widely known mining communit)-, now in disuse, we come upon Zacatecas, the highest point and the largest city between El Paso and the capital, having an altitude of about nine thousand feet, and containing nearly one hundred thousand inhabitants. Having crept, as it were, along the smooth table-lands, not suspecting the nearness of this grand old city, its sudden appear- ance was a revelation to us, with its towering domes and glistening turrets, its lofty chimneys announcing its vast industries of silver min- ing and coining. The principal streets run through a deep ravine, following its widenings. Cross streets, lined with domes and spires, and pictur- esque dwellings, climb the mountain sides. The houses are built of stone, brick, or adobe; all except those of cut stone being frescoed in bright colors which contrast strangely with the substantial cliarac- ter of the buildings. The Cathedral has an elaborately carved facade. The Mint, the Custom-House, and many business houses are of cut stone, porphyry being mostly used. The Alameda has two drives and two promenades, the latter in the center with rows of trees between and stone seats along the outer lines. This distinctively Mexican city has now been invaded by the American innovations, street railways, telephones, and electric lights. 138 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. The Hotel Zacatano was formerly a convent, being a portion of the church property confiscated in 1859 by Juarez. It is a beautiful specimen of Moorish architecture about three centuries old, having been begun in 1576, and completed twenty years later. It is built around an open patio, and entered through an arched carriage-way. The church adjoining formerly belonged to the convent, but, with a portion of the building in front, has been purchased b)' the Presby- terian Hoard of Foreign Missions for $24,000. The church has a membership of two hundred and seventy-five, besides a mission school. Zacatecas is perhaps the greatest mining camp in the world, about fifteen thousand men being now employed. A thousand millions of dollars is said to have been the value of the output here in the last three centuries. Most of the mines are now owned and worked by large companies. The Spaniards commenced working the mines about 1540; but they had then been operated for an unknown period by the Indians. When the conquerors learned of their incredible richness, they dis- patched five thousand Mexican colonists, with a strong military force, to take possession of the region. The Indians were driven to the southwest, but the name of their chief, Zacatecas, was given to both camp and province. Two miles north, at Oraso, the site of the St. Bernabe Mine, is an old chapel — the Capilla de Bracho — dating back to the earliest days of the Spaniards. Further to the north is the Veta Grande Mine, opened by Tolsa in 1846, and named the "Alvarado." Great fortunes have been made out of this mine, and it still yields immense quantities of ore, fifteen millions of dollars' worth having been taken from one shaft in about ten months. The Acacio Company, whose members reside in Spain, own two thirds of this immense property, which covers fifty-five square miles. At the beginning of this century, the San Acacio had already produced $140,000,000, and so far from being exhausted, is now pro- ducing more richlv than ever. V i- v^l/ ■/ft' ■s ^ V ^^ v\r^ ^^^^ '* :, ^' Ji'^'V'f ■\ v«a S ' I r< * '■' v;f!ii ft J-'KOM BORDER TO CAPITAL ALOA'G THE MEXICAN CENTRAL. I4I The great mine of the Mahi Noche was operated for centuries, but is not now worked — though the name survives — the Mexican owners not having capital to cope with the water. The La Plata, lying be- tween the Mala Noche and the Veta Grande, is also owned by Mex- icans. Its ore now yields $800 to the ton. The Cantara Lode is an immense ridge, running along the face of La Bufa, a mountain five hundred feet in height, overlooking the town, its crest crowned with a quaint, historic old church. \w this and its principal branch, the Quebradilla vein, are situated some of the most productive mines, the workings of which extend under the city in all directions. The suburban town of Guadalupe, five miles distant from Zaca- tecas, is reached by street-cars run by gravity. The mules which draw the cars to the city are unhitched, and the return is made, sin nnilas ("without mules"), with startling velocity down the steep incline. My impressions on entering Zacatecas were vivid, and what I saw of this interesting city will remain indelibly impressed on my mem- ory, but on leaving it I found that the bounteous hand of Nature held in reserve a vision of exquisite beaut}'. The results of the high- est human effort often bring disappointment to the beholder, but the works of the Divine Architect never! In the early morning a ca- pricious veil of mist almost obscured the sun, but now and then its genial rays pushed through this curtain, disclosing a towering moun- tain peak, crowned with a gorgeous rainbow. Instantly upon an opposite height appeared a mellow neutral-tinted bow, bending like a " triumphal arch " over mountain and plain carpeted with tender verdure. "— Faithful to its sacrt-d page, Heaven still rebuilds thy span, Nor lets the type grow pale with age, That lirst spoke peace to man." The rainbow tints upon the mountains were reflected in the val- ley, in the characteristic and peculiar dress of the hundreds of busy 142 FACE TO FACE Willi THE MEXICANS. workers, mostly Indians, far below us assorting ores. Red and plaid serapcs, more than rainbow-hued, were tossed carelessly, but with artistic effect, upon the shoulders of the men, while countless women and children with gay skirts, naked feet, blue rclwaos, jetty hair either flowing or in plaits, moved about with unstudied grace. Nature, too, contributed her fairest to the scene. As we whirled around the dizzy height, the train, forming loop after loop, as we headed the frightful barrancas, and circled among the clouds, we saw sparkling waters leaping and dashing from high summits ; then the gladdening view, when we had gone higher than the clouds, and beheld a sky more blue than Italy ever boasted ! Finally, the salient point of every rustic scene, the lavendaras,\\\\.\\\\\m flowing black hair and red petticoats, washing along the mountain streams, filled the landscape with peasant life and homely color. Our spiral windings around this mountain can be compared to nothing less than a revolv- ing panorama, in which both the object and spectator moved. Once seen it is never forgotten. Thirty miles southwest of Zacatecas, at Ouemada, are interesting ruins, supposed to mark one of the resting places of the Aztecs in their march to the valley of Mexico. A citadel is in the center of a walled inclosure containing about si.x acres, with still an outer wall of unhewn stone, eight feet thick and eighteen feet high. Several pyramids and immense pillars are also within the inclosure. Aguas Calientes ("Hot Waters") derives its name from the medicinal springs in its vicinity. The waters are extremely efifica- cious in rheumatism and skin diseases. For centuries people have resorted to them, and still their virtues are undiminished. There are two sets of bath-houses -the old, in the town, to which the water is conveyed in conduits; the new, a half-mile distant at the springs. Street-cars run out to them through an avenue of cotton- wood trees, extending along an accquia (ditch) which carries awa)' the waste waters from the springs. The common people avail themselves of the open accquia, to freely indulge in the customary luxurj' of the bath. A fine \iew FROM BORDER TO CAPITAL ALONG THE MEXICAN CENTRAL. I43 was obtained of this interesting pastime, as we halted for dinner at the station. They plunged and leaped wildly in the rushing waters — men pulling women headlong — their hair white with soap, recalling a pet poodle — and vice versa — children screaming, dogs barking — the sides of the ditches closely lined by people of the same class, in full enjoyment of the scene. Aguas Calientes is distant about seventy-five miles from Zacatc- THE NATIONAL PALACE AT AGUAS CALIENTES, cas, and was founded in 1575 on a grant made by Philip II. of Spain, with a view to rendering the country safe for travelers to and from the mining regions. The grant extended five leagues on all sides from the first chapel erected. This was a small adobe building on the site of the church of San Diego, an ancient edifice with a convent adjoining, which is now converted into a scientific and literary insti- tute. 144 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. Under the streets it is said that extensive ruins exist, the origin of which is lost in the mists of antiquity, no mention of them being made in the traditions of either Toltcc or Aztec. They probably date back to a period before the coming of these races, and may even belong to the civilization which left the famous ruins of Uxmal and Palenque in Yucatan. The city — six thousand feet above sea level — has a population of forty thousand ; streets well paved and swept, and an excellent manu- facturing interest in woolens of fine quality. The State of Aguas Calientes was originally a part of Nueva Galicia, but in 1835 was created into a separate State. It has a delightful climate, is a fine farming country, and has a great variety of delicious fruits, both temperate and tropical. As we move onward, the picturesque life of the country stands forth in inimitable representation at every station, large or small. Groups of horsemen, with gay blankets, bright silken sashes, and broad hats adorned with silver, curvet around on their high-mettled steeds, unconscious of the host of beggars who solicit alms from the passen- gers. A little removed are carriages containing dark-eyed, ravcn- tressed sefloritas, with all the accompaniments of wealth and fashion, leaning idly back, and, like the rest of the crowd, waiting to see the cars. Thus " the rich and the poor are met together" — poverty in its most abject form stands side by side with the highest development of Aztec civilization. At Aguas Calientes the great Central branches off towards San Luis Potosi, ending at Tampico on the Gulf, a distance of about 400 miles. Its western branch, now under construction, will extend from Irapunto to Guadalajara, and on to San Bias on the Pacific coast. Commencing at the extreme northern limit of the republic, and ter- minating at its capital, its arms stretching from gulf to ocean, this great iron road must inevitably remain the great international highway, and prove a boon to Mexico, developing her richest resources, and inviting the tourist to take advantage of the unrivaled facilities it offers in the comforts and luxuries of modern travel. Its steel rails and iron FROM BORDER TO CAPITAL ALONG THE MEXICAN CENTRAL. I45 bridges and every convenience and appliance for safety are unsur- passed. Not the least among its inducements are the excellent eating-houses on the line. Here the traveler may feel indeed " at home," sur- rounded by the familiar sights and sounds and dishes of his native land ■ — not omitting the inevitable " Twenty minutes for refreshments ! " THE PUENTE F.NCAKNACION. Boston capitalists are to be commended for the inception and ex- ecution of this, one of the grandest railway schemes on the continent. With an unstinted expenditure of money they have made a road un- surpassed by any for comfort and convenience, and display an enter- prise and energy worthy of the spirit of New England. And that lawless element which so often finds security and a home in isolated districts, difficult of access, is now, owing to this road, 10 14'3 FACE TO FACE IVITJI THE MEXICANS. witliin easy range of military rule. Thus it was that the backbone of revolutionary spirit was broken. At Encarnacion we cross the longest bridge on the road, a marvel of engineering skill. On our right we catch glimpses of the beautiful little city nestled among the trees whose soft green foliage is bathed in the simultaneous light of falling rain and dazzling sunshine. At the various stations we partake of all sorts of Mexican dishes from the hands of unwashed and half-nude venders, but the inter- change of familiar, idiomatic expressions, and their evident delight at hearing them from the stranger, equalize many differences. Great plantations of cacti are laden with their thorny fruits, and as these industrious people rapidly peel them, the passengers enjoy their delicious flavor. Tempting strawberries in pretty baskets are purchased, but, sad to relate, they prove to be mostly cabbage leaves, with which the basket is lined until there is only room for a few dozen berries. I omitted to mention the Mapirmi desert, through which we pass, some four hundred miles from Chihuahua. It was then covered with grass, several inches in height, and herds of sleek cattle browsed about ; but I was told that after the rainy season the cattle withdrew to bet- ter watered localities, and the birds, also, flew away, but the grass still stood dry. and motionless on the desolate plain. Lagos, a city of perhaps forty thousand inhabitants, is the seat of extensive manufactures, and especially important as the central sta- tion, whence branch lines will extend to the famous mining cities of San Luis Potosi on the east and Guadalajara on the west. The largest manufacturing city in the republic is Leon. Its popu- lation is one hundred thousand, and the principal manufactures are cottons and woolens, hats, boots and shoes, and cutlery. Silao is beautifully situated in a fertile valley. It has extensive mills, and is the junction of the branch line to Guanajuato, that famous city nestling in the mountains full of patriotic and historic associations. The branch extends from Silao to Marfil, about twelve miles; and three miles further, up a steep and rugged mountain, the ,,;:3pw^j-^^^7^.^ FHOM BORDER TO CAPITAL ALONG 1 ILE MEXICAN CENTRAL. I49 tram connects with the city. The inhabitants are mostly engaged in silver mining. Passing Irapuato, Salamanca, and Celaya, we come to Querctaro — capital of the State of that name — a beautiful and interesting city — ■ familiar to all as the place where Maximilian, Miramon, and Mejia were executed. The place is marked by three crosses. Along the line of the railway, as elsewhere, many memorial crosses may be seen. Sometimes they mark the scene of deadly combat, and again, point the traveler to the spot where a murder has been com- WATER-CARRIER OF QUERETARO. mitted, and ask the prayers of the faithful for the repose of tlie soul thus violently launched into eternity without the last rites of the Church. The piles of stones about the crosses represent the petitions that have been offered up, and, judging from the heaps we saw, the mute appeal must be seldom disregarded. San Juan del Rio is reached, and we ascend from its lovely and picturesque valley and along the elevated region to Marquez. We then descend into the beautiful Tula Valley, with its varied scenery and tropical growths. Every village has its history, with traditions older still. Our reflections are broken and we are warned of the approaching 15° FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. end of the journey b)- the announcement that we are nearhig the great Nochistongo Fass Originally this was a tunnel, but now it has more the appearance of a vast chasm rent in the earth by a mighty volcanic upheaval. The railway is constructed upon its very border, and often it seems as if the train would leap across this yawning aper- ture. Two centuries of time, and millions of dollars, were expended upon its construction. Beyond all doubt it was one of the most stupendous hydraulic enterprises ever undertaken by mortal man. Under the Spanish dominion the Aztec system of dikes was done away with, and in 1607, the scheme of draining the city by a tunnel was commenced. The tunnel was twenty-one thousand six hundred and fifty feet long, but it fell in, and consequently the whole valley was inundated. The Spaniards, to prevent the city being drowned out, recommenced the laborious task on the Nochistongo, converting it into an open channel, four miles long. This great trench was completed in 1739, and thousands of Indians perished in the work. As it now stands, the Nochistongo is the original tunnel with the earth removed from the mountains, making an open channel for the water. It winds through the mountains with a slight incline — a frightful spectacle, three hundred and si.xtj'-two feet in breadth, about one hundred and sixty-four in depth, and extends twelve and a half miles; but, though centuries have elapsed, it is still unfinished. A few more turns of the road, a shrill whistle, a general move- ment on the part of the passengers, and we come to a halt in the hand- some depot of the Mexican Central. Carriages are drawn up in line, their swarthy Jehus filling the air with their peculiar idioms. In one of them we were borne along through grand old historic streets to the Hotel San Carlos. Once inside its massive doors the visitor finds himself initiated into still stranger ''costumbrcs." He is registered by the adininistrador (manager), and is then consigned to the camarista (a male chamber- maid), and together they toil up one flight of stairs to where the mas- ter of keys and letter-boxes — a pure Indian — gracefully performs his part of the business. Glance downward over your shoulder and FROM BORDER TO CAPITAL ALONG THE MEXICAN CENTRAL. you will see your name enrolled on an enormous blackboard, from which any visitor may read your arrival without the trouble of investi- gating the register or questioning the administrador. We found ourselves at last upon the third corridor, No. 54, in a grand old room with a fine view from the front window of the bustling Calle delColiseo below, while through the door opening upon the inner galleries an enchanting prospect is afforded of a court filled with gorgeous flowers and tropical plants flooded with silvery sun- shine. The cauiarista manifested his pleasure in serving me and in due form of courtesy introduced himself as Pomposo Vazques, " Elscriado de V." (" Your obedient servant "). On entering the room, he directed attention to the placard of printed rules and to the bell — insisting that he should be called at any time. In the evening a gentle tap at the door, to which I responded, showed me the full-length figure of Pom- poso, in all his dignity. He wished to know if I needed anything, on which I asked for matches. With arms pinioned to his sides, hands thrown upward above his shoulders, digits outspread, with eyes seri- ous, mouth drawn to one side and head shaking ominously, he in- formed me : "/in cste Jiotcl sicnipre faltan cerillos y jabon ! " (" In this liotel we never furnish matches and soap "). After this speech he moved backward step by step, like a grand chamberlain retiring from the presence of royalty, until his grotesque figure reached the door- way and disappeared in the corridor. About nine o'clock I heard an awful rumbling and shaking of the building, as if the whole structure was toppling over. No solution came that night, but next morning when Pomposo came on his rounds, I ascertained that it was the mozo roll- ing his strangel}' constructed bed to the front door, where, snugly en- sconced, he could, at a moment's no- tice, admit a lodger or ward off an in- truder. THE " HOME. SWEET HOME OF THE MOZO CI' SAN CARLOS. 154 FACE TO I-ACE WITH 'J HE MEXICANS. Before entering on my more serious labors, 1 recall an amusing incident in which Pomposo figures as principal. Like all the other hotels at the capital, the San Carlos is kept on the European plan, which made it necessary for guests to pass through an open pntio to the restaurant. On one occasion, when going down to dinner, I en- countered Pomposo at the head of the stairway. He came rapidly toward me, flourishing his arms, as if the house were on fire or Popo- catapetl had made a fresh outbreak, and almost out of breath, ex- claimed: "Porfirio! Porfirio ! Porfirio ! " "Who is Porfirio? and what is the matter?" I asked. Completely overcome, he sat down, and, not comprehending my lack of under- standing, continued breathlessly: " In the grand dining-room down stairs, Porfirio has sixteen friends ; they are eating ; hush ! Do you not hear the music ? " I still asked to be enlightened as to the au- gust Porfirio, whose name had cast a spell on Pomposo. " Do you not know General Porfirio Diaz, our President?" And without waiting for an answer, added, '' Don't go down till later, por Dios Santo ! " " WE NEVER FURNISH SOAP AND MATCHES IN THIS HOTEI-." CHAPTER VI. TENOCHTITLAN — THE AZTEC CAPITAL. MONG the many nortlicrn tribes which invaded the lovely valley of Anahuac in the twelfth century were the Aztecs or Mexicans. After lead- ing a nomadic life for more than a century — weary from their wander- ings — they rested on the borders of Lake Tezcuco. The remarkable rev- elation of an eagle with outspread wings, standing upon a fiiiial (hat grew from a fissure in a rock on the water's edge, holding in his talons a serpent, impressed them as a favorable omen of future sovereignty, and indicated this spot as a permanent abiding place. At once they began preparations for building their city. Upon a slender foundation of reeds, rushes, and piles in the spongy marshes of Tezcuco the Aztecs built their huts, to be replaced in time by the solid structures which adorned the city at the coming of the Spaniards. This was the beginning of Towchtitlan ("cactus on a stone"), named in honor of its supernatural origin — the capital of the most powerful empire of the Western world. To-day the hoary superstition is sacredl)- em- bodied as the national emblem on the escutcheon of Mexico. From these humble beginnings, by subjugations of the weak and alliances with the strong, this Indian empire extended from the Atlantic to the Pacific, and from unknown limits on the north to tlie Gulf. This city was the great center of government, law, and religion to 156 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. this vast sovereignty, and had a population about the same as to-day. The wondrous tale of its wealth and grandeur and imposing magnifi- cence has been often told ; also how it was razed to the ground by the conquerors, and its canals filled with the debris of temple and palace. It was then rebuilt, and rose from its ashes exceeding its original splen- dor; and to-day — having withstood sieges, and witnessed the rise and fall of rulers, from the Spanish viceroys to the Habsburg — it stands in unrivaled beauty, the capital of the Mexican Republic. Wonderful impressions present themselves to a thoughtful mind on entering for the first time this great metropolis, where every foot of ground is historic — the Rome of America, once the Venice. At the time of the conquest, in 15 19, every street was a canal, thronged with Indians, peculiarly attired, paddling along in their canoes, con- ducting the entire commercial and agricultural business of the valley of Anahuac ! " How gay and picturesque must have been the aspect of the lake in those days," says Prescott, " with its shining cities and flowering islets rocking, as it were at anchor, on the fair bosom of its waters ! " The ancient city had then three distinct avenues or causeways which connected it with the mainland, and to which is attached much his- toric interest. The Spaniards first entered tiie city at its southern extremity by the causeway of Iztapalapan. The Tepeyac is on the northern boun- dary, and is connected with the first-mentioned causeway by a long street. It was on the hill Tepeyac that the Virgin Guadalupe ap- peared to Juan Diego. Owing to this, Tepeyac is also known as Guadalupe. It is three miles from the city. The third causeway, TIacopan, is quite as memorably historic. The Calle de Tacuba is the ancient causewa)' of TIacopan. It was here that the Spaniards were defeated by the Aztecs, and, as is related by all historians, here also Pedro Alvarado made his famous leap, on the terrible night of July i, 1520 — the Nochc Tristc. It must have been indeed a night of sorrow for the conquerors. A pitiless rain ]ioured down upon the invaders. Neither starlight nor moonlight lent their gentle radiance to a scene TENOCHTIlLAN—rilE AZ7 EC CAPITAL. 1 57 SO terrible. But to remain at that point was not possible; accordingly one of Cortcz's most faithful soldiers, Sandoval, led the now dis- mayed Spaniards. Forty men carried a wooden bridge, by which the troops might cross the ditches and canals, otherwise impassable. All crossed safely ; the sentinels on duty were easily silenced, but the ever-wakeful priests in the temple, also on watch, were attracted by the unusual noise. Instantly the cry "To arms!" was raised, the trumpets were sounded, and the inhabitants aroused from their peaceful slumbers. By the time the Spaniards had reached the second canal, they were entirely surrounded by water, and the groans of the dead and dying mingled strangely with the beating of the rain and the fury of the wind. The third canal was reached, but in attempting to cross, the few remaining soldiers were killed, and Alvarado the fearless was left alone. Resting his lance in the bottom of the canal, he gave a spring and was landed safely on the opposite bank. When the Indians beheld this feat, they ate handful after handful of dirt, and exclaimed : " Truly this man is the offspring of the sun ! " Since that time the place has borne the name of " El Salto etc Alvarado."* At Popotla, somewhat over two miles from the capital, still stands in reasonable preservation the celebrated "Arbol de la Nochc Tristc" (" Tree of the Sad Night "), against which Cortez leant and wept on the night of his defeat by the Aztecs. Only a short distance beyond Popotla is Atzcapotzalco. In Aztec days this town was their great slave market, and on each recurring sale-day the Indian maidens were decked out in all their bewitching adornments to dance and sing, in order to please those who might be- come purchasers. The city of Mexico, which stands on the site of the ancient city, is one of the finest and best built cities on the continent. The architecture * Bernal Diaz discredits as impossible this exploit. 158 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. is grand and massive rather than diversified and ornate. The monot- ony of sohd walls and high-arched portals at first strikes the stranger with a feeling akin to disappointment, but familiarity brings only a deeper consciousness of the grandeur of the whole. A singular and impressive feature is the fact that not only is the site that of the ancient Aztec capital, but the general style of the buildings remains the same. The flat roof, the asotca, the square surrounding the patio, all belong to the past as to the present. The Plaza Mayor, or Zdcalo, is said to be unequaled anywhere. One entire side is covered by the cathedral, which occupies the site of the temple of the Aztec war-god. The National Palace, formerly the residence of the vicero\s, covers another side, and stands on the ver- itable site of the Halls of the Montezumas. The other two sides are occupied by the shady portals. The great causewa)'s are still in use as leading highways, and the streets are laid out in symmetrical lines, running at right angles — north and south, east and west. Each side of a block has its individual name, but often the same is applied to three or four squares consecu- tively — as the three San Franciscos, the two Calles Plateros, " streets of the silversmiths," and the first, second, third, and fourth Providen- cias. A narrow street is called a callcjon. An effort has recently been made to change this puzzling method by giving the same name to a street throughout its entire length. I was much interested in the tradition of the " Calk del India Tristc " (" Street of the Sad Indian "). A wealthy Indian cacique established his home there, and then became a spy upon his own tribe, steadily informing the viceroy of all their plans and intentions. He failed from some cause to make known to the latter a mutiny w hich was in process of execution. This gave the viceroy a pretext for the confiscation of his property. Poor and despised by his own people and held in contempt by the Spaniards, he took his seat on the corner of the street, weeping and distressed, refusing food or comfort, and finally, in this melancholy attitude, he breathed his last. His property passed to the crown, and with a view to teaching TENOCHTITLAN—THE AZTEC CAPITAL. i6l the Indians a lesson, the viceroy had erected the statue of an Indian weeping, in the same attitude as the real one, sitting with his back to the wall, which remained there until the house was demolished, when the statue was sent to the museum. But the street did not change its name. The street-car system is admirable. First and second-class cars are yellow and green, and every ten, fifteen, thirty, or sixty minutes they leave the Z6calo all in a line, one after another, on their rounds, some of which include a radius of from ten to twenty miles. Every moment in the day the ear is regaled with the unmelodi- ous tooting of a cow's horn in the hands of the car driver. These men manage to extract more muscular exertion from their innlas \\\dA-\ ever did a hard-hearted Sambo. As the street-car lines have their second and third-class lines, with prices to correspond, so also is the cab system regulated. The distinction in prices is indicated by flags. Carriages bearing a blue flag are first class, and may be had for $i.oo an hour, while a red flag is second class and costs 75 cents ; a white flag shows a third- class coach, price 50 cents an hour. No deviation from these rules is allowed save on feast-days. But as those who dance must pay the piper, so, also, he who rides in a Mexican cab must pay the driver his fee of a medio for \i\s pulque. One great convenience in these cabs is a cord which is worn on the arm of the driver, one end being in the carriage, so that the passenger may at any time call an instantaneous halt without e.x- hausting his lungs. The iron-handed law at the Federal capital is unrelenting toward cabmen, and as the rates are posted in each vehicle and the drivers are all numbered, there is no necessity for an over-charge. Ameri- cans, with their profligacy in small change, are the most easily im- posed upon, but if they make complaint the abuse is at once cor- rected, and the driver stands a chance of losing his position. There is no fire department to speak of: as the buildings are either of stone or some other fire-proof substance, a conflagration is 1 62 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. of rare occurrence, and is a notable event of an ordinary life-time. There is but one fire-engine in tlie city, and perhaps in the republic, counting upon its venerable cogs and wheels at least forty summers. Another machine, equally primitive, is the only water-sprinkler. Its operations are chiefly confined to the Paseo ; but it has many sturdy competitors in the mozos in white who throw bucketful after bucketful of water before their masters' doors. No city is more peaceful after night-fall. Pulque shops, by order of the government, close at six o'clock in the evening, and are opened 7'- THE NEW AND THE OLD. at the same hour in the morning. The city is so well patrolled that one may perambulate the streets at any hour of the night without fear of encountering rudeness. Little or no drunkenness is seen, though more than 250,000 pints of the beverage are daily consumed. The imbibers go at once to their homes, there to sleep off the effects of their indulgence. The city lies in the lowest part of the valley of Mexico, like a deep-set jewel. From its location, and other unexplained causes, it TENOCIIT/TLAN—'JHE AZTEC CAPITAL. 163 has several times been visited with frightful inundations, which have threatened to wash it from the earth. Of these the most wonderful was known as the " Fountain of Acucasexcatl," which sprang spon- taneously from the ground during the reign of Ahuizotl. Another was the " Torrent," which, like the fountain, spread over the valley in the lowest places to the depth of about nine feet of water on the ordinary level. The death rate from drowning and disease, superin- duced by the long-standing water, was terrible. The chief cause of these inundations is believed to be the pro.x- imity of the lakes, which lie at unequal heights around the city. When the summer rains filled the highest. Lake Zumpango, it would overflow into the next. Lake of San Cristobal, and when that was full it in turn disgorged into a lower one, Texcoco, and so on until the waters overflowed into the plains of San Lazaro, and thence pene- trated into the city. There is no danger from lakes Xochimilco and Chalco except in case of melting snows from Popocatapetl. Seven times within the knowledge of man the city of Mexico has been inundated. Four times the calamitous visitation came in one century, twice in a brief interval of only three years ; the latest occurred in 1629. The finest engineering talent in the republic has been called into requisition to devise a system of drainage, but a wide difference of opinion as to the best means still prevails. Some favor a tunnel, but as the soil is spongy and treacherous, there could be no guarantee against its sinking. This, together with the prospect at any time of an earthquake, forbids the plan. Others recommend the extension of the Nochistongo, which is now utilized, and is partially effective. Several engineering companies from our northern States have attempted to investigate the gigantic and dangerous task of draining the city, and if the problem be finally solved it will probably be by means of Yankee ingenuity and machinery. When the great earthquake of 1882 visited the capital, it is claimed that the nearness of the water to the surface of the earth saved it from destruction. The opinion prevails amongst intelligent 164 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICAXS. people that a thorough drainage of the city would increase the danger from this source. The foundations of a large proportion of the houses are laid either in water or in marshy flats; and I have often seen a loaded wagon, carriage, or cart perceptibly shake a two-story house. The School of Mines, a massive and immense structure, has sunk more than six feet in the earth within forty years, so I was informed by Professor Cos- tiUo, of that institution. Mexico has been termed the Rome of America, not only because of its temples and palaces, but also on account of its churches and other ecclesiastical buildings ; but many of the latter are alienated from their original use, while of the one hundred church buildings, only half this number are now devoted to religious services. The grand Gothic cathedral rises majestically above all surrounding ob- jects, the most conspicuous feature in the architecture of the metrop- olis. It is built of unhewn stone, and is five hundred feet in length by four hundred and twenty in width. The walls are several feet in thick- ness. This great building was completed in 1667, nearly one hundred years after its foundation, at a cost of two million dollars. Its exte- rior is majestic and imposing, and the interior gorgeously painted and decorated, its altars enriched with gold, silver, and jewels. But with all its grandeur the cathedral is anything but a choice place for devotional exercises. True democracy is the rule, and the most degraded, unclean lepero has as much space allotted to him as the grandest lady or gentleman. This is undo\ibtedly the true spirit and intent of Christianity, but one cannot help being a little fastidious. I have seen men most earnestly engaged in their devotions, with dozens of chickens, and as many turkeys as they could carry, suspended from their persons ; women with burro loads of vegetables on their shoul- ders, others with one or two pappooses screaming and wiggling in their mothers' rebosos, all in such numbers as to forbid pious meditations. Skirting the west side of the cathedral is a shady garden with fountains and seats, terminating in a most unique and choice flower market. At the corner, facing the Z6calo, there is a heap of curiously TENOCHTITLAN—rUh AZTEC CAFITAL. 165 carved stones and broken columns, and, pushing aside the gorgeous screen of flowers and vines, the inscription may be read : " Stones from the bloody sacrificial altar of Huitzilopotztli, used afterward in the first temple that the Spaniards erected to the Christian faith." The church of Santa Brigida (St. Bridget's) is the most modern in its interior arrangements, having comfortable pews and carpeted aisles. But Santa Teresa, with its exquisitely painted interior; San Hipolito, with the exterior of its dome of glittering porcelain mosaic; and grand old San Fernando, with illustrious memories and associations, whose time-worn floors have echoed the footsteps of generations — these speak volumes in their silence and mellow gloom. Of public monuments and statues there are five — the most note- worthy that of Carlos IV. at the head of the Paseo, which, with the exception of that of Marcus Aurelius at Rome, is perhaps the largest in the world. It was cast in Mexico, the first in the Western hemi- sphere. The statues of Christopher Columbus, President Juarez, and Cuatimotzin, the last of the Aztec kings, are all marvels of beauty and finish, and adorn the Paseo de la Reforma — the grand avenue or boulevard of the capital. This noble drive extends about three miles from the Alameda to Chapultepec, and is broad enough for six carriages to drive abreast. But usually they are driven in line, while the gayly equipped caballcros curvet in the opposite direction. Police- men are stationed every few yards. On either side the sidewalks are lined with pedestrians, in their " Sunday best " — groups of beautifully dressed children indulge in childish sports, the band plays, and all Mexico is jubilant. There are five public markets. The principal one covers an entire block, but, despite its wealth of fruits, vegetables, game, fish and meat, is a wretchedly forlorn place, having no building, but merely a collection of huts, booths, and tents, which are most uninviting to the stranger. The public gardens number twelve, the chief of which is the Ala- meda, and are all laid out in truly Parisian style. Excellent educational facilities are afforded at the capital. Among them are the School of Arts and Professions for Women, Industrial l66 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. Schools for Men, the Academy of Fine Arts, Conservatory of Music, School of Mines or Engineering, School of Jurisprudence, Military Institute, Medical Institute, Commercial College, Girls' College, Pre- paratory Institute for Boys (equal to one of our best colleges). Deaf and Dumb, and Blind Institutes, the National Museum, and a superb Public Library with one hundred and sixty thousand volumes. For the National Schools, President Diaz has prescribed a course of study for seven years in agriculture and engineering. The latter includes French, English, German, Greek and Latin roots, geography, drafting, meteorology, chemistry, botany, geology, architecture, agri- culture, technology, surveying, book-keeping, and political economy. The medical course also covers seven years, and includes, in addition to the above, all the branches requisite to the profession. Thorough- ness is required in everything, no diplomas being granted without proficiency. I visited many of these public institutions of learning, and found them admirably conducted. I was especially interested in the School for the Blind, and surprised to find the pupils outnumber the teachers only a little more than two to one — the former numbering sixty-seven, the latter thirty-one. The salaries of teachers range from twenty to seventy dollars per month. On entering the school a photograph is taken of each pupil and pasted in a large book. By its side is placed a full description, with age, date, and place of birth, and quantity and quality of clothing. The object of the photograph is to prevent a possible substitution of one for another, and preserve the identity of each pupil. Musical culture is the leading feature here, as in every institution of learning in the country. The orchestra played, and a young girl of sixteen sang for us, in a rich, mellow contralto which filled the building, selections from // Trovatorc. Another was asked by her teacher to read for us. She began in a clear voice reading an account of the entrance of General Scott into the city of Mexico. When she read " he entered sin valor" (" without courage "), the teacher gently interposed, and requested her to read in another place, which she TENOCIITJTLAN—THE AZTEC CAPITAL. 1 69 did, to my serious disappointment, for I was anxious to know in wliat spirit even a blind Mexican would read the history of that war. The School for the Deaf and Dumb is conducted after the most modern methods, the pupils being taught articulation, only the older ones using manual signs. Many of the teachers have received a Eu- ropean education. The noblest institution that I visited was the '' Esciicla dc Artes y Oficios para las Miijcrcs" (" School of Arts and Trades for Women "), of which Juarez was the founder and benefactor. It gives to poor girls unequaled advantages for learning, without fear of the absence of their " daily bread," to make themselves independent of want. The government gives them comfortable rooms, two good meals a day, and furnishes many of the poorer pupils with clothing. Each girl wears a long, brown holland apron ; their faces are clean, hair neatly braided, and every care taken that they may make, at all times, a neat appearance. Several hours daily are devoted to the acquirement of a practical education. Bookbinding, printing, book-keeping, drawing, painting, music, embroidery are taught ; also the manufacture of picture-frames, and, on cunning little hand-looms, cords and fringes of all colors for decorative purposes. The pupils upholster skillfully and artistically furniture that would adorn a mansion. There is a neat store in the building, belonging to the institution, in which the work of the pupils is disposed of for their benefit. They conduct a neatly printed weekly newspaper, consisting of four sheets, and called La Mtijcr. In all the wise concepts of her Indian chief, Mexico has no higher monument to his greatness than this industrial school for the eleva- tion of her women. There are three hundred and sixty-eight pupils receiving the bene- fits of this institution, from misses of twelve years to demure matrons in middle life. The public schools are numerous and well patronized. I was pleased to see the eagerness with which the pupils seized their oppor- tunities for gaining knowledge. My American friend, Mrs. C , I/O FACE TO FACE WITH THE AJ EX/CAN S. has classes in English in several of these institutions, where I heard them reciting fluently in my own tongue. It is estimated that fully eight thousand people are now studying English at the capital. The public charitable institutions are also numerous, and include the Insane Asylum, Foundling Hospital, House of Maternit}', founded by Carlotta ; Poor-House, Leper Institute, and several hospitals. The Monte de Picdad, or pawnshop, founded by Count Regla, is one of the noblest benefactions, enabling those whom misfortune has visited to realize or receive advances upon valuables without the risk of losing them. These pawnshops e.xist all over the country, and all classes can alike avail themselves of their advantages. The city has four large theaters, the National being the second largest on the Western continent, but its interior furnishings are but a mockery in this age of ele- gance and luxury. Once gor- geous in their rich gildings and fanciful upholstery, they now appear in a sad state of dilapidation. There are many hotels, all kept upon the Eu- ropean [ilan, and the Con- cordia, which is the Dclmonico of the capital. The mercantile establishments do not generally possess in their exterior the attractions of those of our own cities. It is but a short time since a few of the leading merchants have had recourse to show- windows, but in these now are exhibited the choicest wares of home and foreign production — exquisitely set diamonds, rare jewels of all kinds, bronzes, statuary and French china. Added to these are dis- played laces, velvets, silks, and Parisian dresses, and an endless variety of foreign importations, including French dolls, the prettiest I ever saw. Once inside the stores, the activity and agility of the clerks, in WATER-CARRIER AT THE CAPITAL. TENOCHTITLAN—TllE AZTEC CAPITAL. 171 their eagerness to wait upon you, are equaled only by their lack of system and business management. Be sure, however, that you will have an opportunity of purchasing some of the rarest and most costly dress fabrics upon which one's eyes ever rested. The Montcrilla, the stores along the portales, are the " Sixth Ave- nue " of the capital. The same classes of goods are kept as on Pla- Icros. and for a much less price, a fact which holds in check the charges in the latter. I saw comparatively few of our American dress fabrics in any of the stores; only domestics, prints, and goods of low grade. But there is no question in my mind that American silks, hats, ribbons and woolens, as well as almost every kind of ready-made goods, would find a profitable market if only properly introduced. The portales is the place of all others to buy curios of every possible descrip- tion. A few practical words must be given as to the general lives of the people of the capital — the method of house-renting, and the forms to be complied with before establishing a home there. Agencies for the leasing and renting of houses, accompanied by our modern ad- vertising, are unknown. To secure a house, one must tramp up and down the streets looking for pieces of paper pinned to the iron rods of the windows. On finding one that suits, he must strain his neck out of the socket and wear out his shoes searching for owner or agent. Then he must procure -a. fiador — generally a merchant or man of busi- ness, who will act as security and assume responsibility in case of a possible delinquency. The contract is well worthy of attention. It is almost enveloped in stamps, and bulky enough for a treaty be- tween foreign nations. After much delay and formality, this docu- ment is duly signed, and you are put in possession of your new domicile. The familiar phrase, that "Three moves are equal to a fire," is here emphasized. One's earthly goods must be carried either on the backs of men or on the street-cars. If the first mode of transporta- tion be resorted to, it is generally necessary to dispatch a trusty ser\'- 172 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. ant of the household with each load of goods, lest the cargador find it convenient to take his departure, with your valuables, for some unknown localit}'. Houses are generally constructed on the viviciida plan ; that is, on one floor there may be from four to six establishments containing from two to six or eight rooms. But such smaller conveniences as closets are unknown. Rents are high at all times, and in desirable localities excessive. Inside apartments, with five rooms facing the court, rent for $40 per month ; of the same size, with one to four windows opening on the street, from $60 to $80, according to location. Houses are, generally,, two and three stories in height, and the higher one goes, the more rent is demanded. For health's sake, the sunny side of the building is absolutelj' necessary — a fact considered by the owner in his assess- ment of rents. Greater attention is now paid than formerly to the plumbing, ven- tilation and general sanitation of the houses, but still there remains much to be desired. The drainage of the city is so very imperfect that it will be long, if ever, before the houses built many years ago can be made to fulfill modern requirements. Many well-to-do families occupy apartments over business houses, and sometimes over ptdqiic shops. The portero may be either a man or woman, who resides with his or her family in a little dark, damp apartment under the stairs. I have sometimes counted two or three turkeys, several chickens, a pig or two, dogs without number, and endless children, besides all the cooking and sleeping arrangements of the whole family, in one small room. When you ascend the stairs, the transformation is complete. Blooming plants, singing birds, carpeted halls and stairways, curtained windows and shaded balconies afford a striking contrast. I wish that space would admit of an extended mention of the Mexican flora, the variety and gorgeousness of which must be seen to be appreciated. The most striking characteristic of the Mexican flowers is their deep, rich coloring. If red, it is the most glowing and EL ARBOL DE LAS MANITAS TREE OF THE LITTLE HANDS HATHOMAS %WVCIC LrTH TENOCHTITLAiV—THE AZTEC CAPITAL, I75 intense; if yellow or purple, the richest ; if white or pink, the purest and most delicate. There is not a day in the year when fresh and lovely flowers may not be purchased for a mere trifle — roses, with great soft petals folded over each other, vie in loveliness with pansies as large as a dollar; calla lilies, the size of a fan, bloom luxuriant in every ditch ; geraniums as tall as a man ; sweet pea, heliotropes, camellias, and magnificent poppies, so enormous that one will cover a plate, and so resplendent in color as to rival the far-famed poppy fields of India. The most remarkable of all the flowers is " el arbol de las manitas " (" tree of the little hands "), cheirostemon platonidcs, a native of cold lands. The bright-red flowers are well-defined, miniature hands. It has the leaf of the platonos tree, which is common in European gardens. The flower is a popular remedy with the Indians for heart disease. It grows wild, but is very scarce, there being only one in the National Palace Gardens, one in San Francisco Garden, and a few in the valley of Tohica. It has a black seed, smaller than a pea, is very slow of growth, and at ninety years of age has attained no remarkable size or height. Tulipan — botanical name Hibiscus rosa sinensis, a native of East India. The flowers are both single and double, are scarlet, pale yel- low, and chocolate-colored — three varieties. They are indigenous to hot countries, and serve no purpose save ornamentation. The leaf is a beautiful dark green, resembling that of the orange ; altogether, it is one of the most gorgeous of all the flowers that are seen in Mexico. " Flor de noche biicna" or Christmas flower {Poinsittia piilcherrima), belongs to the tribe of Euphorbia. It grows about four meters high ; the leaves are large and of a dark, lusterless green. When the plant stops blooming the leaves put forth. The flower itself is insignificant, but around it are several bracteas, large, and of a brilliant scarlet color. It begins to bloom at Christmas and ceases in about two months. It is also used by the Indians as a remedy for some of their numerous maladies. It can be grown from cuttings. Another remarkable plant that blooms in the hot countries as early 176 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. as January, February, or March, and in colder climates later, is called plumcria. In the stem and leaves it contains a white milky juice. It grows to several yards in height. Some bear rose-colored flowers, others white, and others yellow, which have a powerful but pleasant odor. The Aztec name is cacolox ocJiitt, which means the flower of the raven. It is indigenous to the country, and is propagated from branches. The Valley of Mexico is the valley of the lil_\', although the lily of the valley, as I am told, does not grow there. But there are above fifty varieties, no two alike, blooming on mountain, crag, or plain, which for beauty and coloring are unequaled. ART GALLERY AND MUSEUM. A visit to the Academy of Fine Arts should not be omitted. Hours may be profitably employed there, and one will come away with the desire to examine further its impressive treasures. The native talent is unquestionably fine. But, though fostered and encouraged by the government, it lacks the stimulus of popular appreciation and demand. Thus it happens that some of the most accomplished artists suffer for the essentials of life, or, as an alterna- tive, expend their skill upon the gay interiors oi ptilquc shops. In the great National Academy of San Carlos, one may see drawings that would reflect credit on any school of art. They dis- play a soft and delicate touch, with much attention to the most minute details of finish. In painting, as in drawing, the art school chooses an over-smooth finish ; in this differing from the general modern style. Few of the pupils seem to have been inspired by the beautiful natural objects of their own country. Indeed, with the exception of Velasco, who takes precedence in landscape, and whose subject is the Valley of Mexico, no one has given any attention worthy the name to Mexican scenery. Of Sr. Jose M. Velasco, Professor of Perspec- tive and Landscape in the Academy, Seflor Landesio, in 1867, in a TENOCHTITLAN—THE AZTEC CAPITAL. \JJ work entitled Landscape Fainting and Perspective in the National Academy, says: "This young artist, who already is strong in himself, warrants the highest hopes, and will do great honor to his country, contributing efficaciously to this high end by his noble efforts." His paintings have taken premiums in the Centennial Exposition in Philadelphia, and in the Paris Exposition, and occupy prominent places in the National Academy. The world may unite in raving over its exquisite beauties, but the average native artist seeks his inspiration from other sources. There is something mediaeval in their so frequent choice of relig- ious themes. Some of the most interesting works in the collection are those by the early masters of the Spanish-Mexican school, to whom must be accorded precedence. In the early part of the seventeenth century, Baltazar Echave put in the initiatory strokes. All the works of this time have a mellow richness and an even distribution of color that bespeak a broad and vigorous thought. Gay colors fill the canvas smoothly and harmoni- ously. Luis Juarez has many wonderful exhibitions of his great genius. In none is it more clearly expressed than in his St. Ildefonso. The scene represents the saint having conferred upon him by angel hands the robes of office of a bishop. A virgin and angel heads fill the upper space of the canvas, the whole imparting a sweet and touching impression. Nicolas and Juan Rodriguez, as also other contemporaries, have exhibited an equal genius and care in the execution of their work. Cabrera and Ibarra are the most prominent figures of the second period of Mexican art, but they are not the equals, either in concep tion or execution, of the earlier masters. Of the moderns, one of the noblest of all the paintings in the Academy is that of " Las Casas " (a priest) " Protecting the Aztecs from Slaughter by the Spaniards." It is the work of Felix Parra, and 178 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. ail}- art gallery in the world might deem its possession a treasure, and the artist accomplished the great task before he had made a visit to the art galleries of Europe. The next most touching to me was the " Death of Atala," which expresses a divine inspiration and is pathetic to the last degree. In THE AZTEC CALENUAK STONE. addition to the works of native artists, the gallery is enriched by many original paintings of the great masters of Europe. But more time cannot be given to one of the most interesting of all the public institutions of Mexico. Mexican antiquities constitute in themselves a world of thought and research. We read of their spoliation and destruction by vandal TENO<^HTITLAN—TnE AZ/kC CAPJTAL. 179 hands, but it seems almost incredible when a visit is made to the National Museum. A wide difference of opinion prevails amongst arclijeologists and antiquarians as to the deductions on Mexican antiquities. So far, nothing is shrouded in greater mystery and to the future we must look for a solution. Until 1884 there was no catalogue by which English-speaking tourists might enjoy the relics of antiquity in the museum. Mr. W. W. Blake, an accomplished scholar and gentleman, has recently arranged and published an excellent catalogue which unlocks a hid- den world of knowledge to all who desire enlightenment. Space does not admit a mention befitting the subject, and a mere glance at a few of its leading objects must suffice. The Aztec Calendar Stone is of solid basalt, porous but fine. It is 12 feet in diameter, and its weight is 53,790 pounds. After the conquerors leveled all the temples of Indian worship, this stone was imbedded a half yard in V.'' V '■ ■ ' the marshy earth. It was e.xhumed in 1790. A Mexican year contain- ed eighteen months, and these were arranged in symbolical representa- tions upon this great stone. Some such names as these are found upon it : Sea Animal, Lizard, Death, Path of the Sun, and others of like order ; until one finds himself lost in the mazes of the great barbaric puzzle. The Sacrificial Stone is a religious symbol as 12 TOLTEC— COLOSSAL HEAD IN DIORITE. i8o FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICAMS. well as an historical monument. Its diameter is about two and one- half meters — seven and one-half feet, while its height is perhaps four- fifths of the diameter. This stone was exhumed in 1791, about one year after the Calendar Stone. It was dedicated to the sun, and has a sculptured image of the luminary on its upper face. Groups of people are seen on its convex sides, but it is blood-curdling to see that some of these are held by the hair. In the days of its use, it is said that from twenty to fifty thousand persons were annually sacrificed on it. Prisoners of war were usually chosen as a proper sacrifice. Arrayed in gorgeous apparel, decked with flowers, and bearing in his hands musical instruments, the victim ascended the steps of the temple. He was made the bearer of orders and messages to the sun, and when at last the stone was reached five priests bound and laid him on it. while a sixth, with a " scarlet mantle, emblemat- ic of his bloody office, dexterously opened the breast of the wretched victim with a sharp razor, made of itztli, a volcanic substance, hard as flint, and inserting his hand, tore out the palpitating heart." As this ancient relic now stands in the National Museum, one may recall a long past scene, by inspecting the canal cut across the top and down one side, for the blood to pass from the victim, yet writhing in his death agony. In close proximity to the Sacrificial Stone, the Mexican Mars (called by the euphonious name of Hnitzilopotchli) rears his monstrous head. '^k*.^ IIUIIZILUI'UTCHLI, THE AZTEC GOD OF WAR. TENOCHTITLAN—THE AZTEC CAPITAL. igj In the historical part are relics of the noted men of the past, Hidalgo, Guerrero, Santa Anna, and the Emperor Iturbide. Of the latter ill-fated monarch there are ten pieces of glass showing excellent photographs. There are about thirty pieces of Spanish armor, two of the pieces having engraved upon them the name of Pedro Alvarado. The plate of Maximilian and also his bust are here. In the archaeological department are paintings, Aztec weapons, musical instruments, wedges, spindles, idols of stone and clay, and so on, ad fill. Each of the beautiful environs of the Mexican capital has its picturesque little plaza, sparkling fountain, gay flowers, and many national embellishments. A perfect street-car system, stretching over thirty-three leagues, enables the tourist to observe at leisure these towns, several of which were in existence before the conquest. A charming day may be spent by taking a car at the Zdcalo for Tacubaya, the Versailles of Mexico, thence to San Angel, where if you have not provided your own picnic dinner, you caji dine at one of the comfortable fondas. The air is delightful here, and fruits and flowers are in abundance. Take another tram- car, from which j-ou gain enchanting views of field, forest and glen, passing the shady picturesque village of Coyacuan, and '■'■El Arbol Bcndito" — a grand old tree, centuries old. Not far off may be seen the first church built by Cortez, near the capital, and the monument at Churubusco. Near this, the tram passes from Mexico. Taking it, you soon find \'our- self at the charming suburban town of Tlalpam — seventeen miles from the city — lying peacefully on the spurs and foot-hills of the lofty Cordilleras. With delightful impressions of the excursion you return to the city, reaching it about seven o'clock in the evening. Another excursion of equal interest may be made, which includes a pilgrimage to the most sacred shrine of Me.xico. Turn northward toward Lake Tezenco, still by tram, and you soon reach Cerro del Tepayac, historic ground from the days of the conquest. From this point you may survey the identical route taken by the conquerors on 1 82 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. entering the capital. Here also, in the cuartcl of the soldiers, the treaty of Guadalupe-Hidalgo was signed between the United States and Mexico, which closed the war of 1846-48. Returing, pass along to the Viga boulevard, bordering the canal of the same name, and. leaving the car, hire a boat for a small sum and proceed down the canal to the Chinainpas, the legendary floating gardens. The water has not a ripple, save what is made by the oars, and the big-hatted boatman gracefully swings them until you come suddenly upon the village of Santa Anita. Here you may refresh yourself with a Mexican luncheon. Lake Xochimilco, sixteen miles distant, is the main outlet of this canal. But we may come and go as oft as we will, and still find the floating gardens purely legendary. The nearest approach to a realization of the legend consists of a space of earth forming a bed for vegetables, fruits, and flowers, having on either side a ditch from which the garden is irrigated. Humboldt says with regard to floating gardens, commonly known as the Chinainpas : "There are two sorts of them, of which the one is movable and driven about by the winds, and the other fixed and attached to shore. The first, alone, merit the denomination of float- ing gardens. " The ingenious invention of Chinantpas appears to go back to the end of the fourteenth century. It had its origin in the extraordinary situation of a people surrounded with enemies and compelled to live in the midst of a lake, little abounding in fish, who were forced to fall upon every means of procuring subsistence. It is even probable that nature herself suggested to the Aztecs the first idea of floating gardens. On the marshy banks of the lakes Xochimilco and Chaleo, the agitated water, in time of the great rises, carries away pieces of earth covered with herbs and bound together by roots. These, float- ing about for a long time and driven by the wind, sometimes unite into small islands. A tribe of men, too weak to defend themselves on the continent, would take advantage of these portions of ground which accident put within their reach, and of which no enemy dis- puted the property. . . . In proportion as the fresh-water lake has AN ANCIENT HOUSE ON THE VIGA CANAL, AND A PEW OF THE PASSERS-EY. TENOCHTITLAN-THE AZTEC CAPITAL. 1S5 become more distant from the salt-water lake, the movable Chinanipas have become more fix- ed. . . . Every Chi- iiampa forms a paral- lelogram of 100 meters in length, and five or six meters in breadth (328 x 16 or ig feet). Beans, peppers, potatoes, and a magnificent variety of vegetables are cultivat- ed on them, and every border, almost, is hedged by lovely, bright flowers." But chief in historic interest of the sights in the vicinit}- of the capital, is the grand old fortress of Chapultepec. It is reached by either a pleasant stroll of three miles, by tram, or by carriage on the Paseo, and at last we rest be- neath the shade of state- ly old trees, with their clinging drapery of white moss; some of these trees are reputed to have been in existence fifteen hundred years, and are known as ahuchuctcs. 1 86 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. According to Humboldt, Chapultepec rises above the plain to the remarkable height of 7,626 feet. " It was chosen by the young viceroy, Galvez, as the site of a villa {Chateau de Plaisance) for himself and his successors. " Of the fifty viceroys who have governed Mexico from 1535 to 1808, one alone was born in America, the Peruvian, Don Juan de Auina de Casa Fuerte (1722- 1734), a disinterested man and good administrator. Some of my readers," he continues, " will perhaps be interested in knowing that a descendant of Christopher Columbus and a descendant of King Montezuma were among the viceroys of Spain. Don Pedro Nuno Colon, Duke of Veraguas, made his entry at Mexico in 1673, and died six weeks afterward. The viceroy, Don Joseph Sarmiento Valladares, Count de Montezuma, governed from 1697 to 1701." A glance either way revives a history which fills the mind with thoughts too sad for utterance. This noble hill of solid porphyry was the country place of Montezuma and his ancestors ; and since then no marked event has ever occurred, within access of it, in which the grand old castle has not played a prominent part. On entering the gates, turn to the right and you are soon far around the circle, where the sweet, soft air sighs through the cypress trees, and seems to speak in broken accents of the "voiceless past." Near at hand is the aqueduct, built by Montezuma, now bordered with long grass and wild-flowers with their heads drooping down- ward, and through which, despite the decay and havoc of centuries, the water trickles, sweet as ever. Turn another way, and see the stone steps which Montezuma had carved in the hill, then the only mode of ascent ; and his cave, said to have no termination. Near this point begins the drive constructed by Maximilian, winding around the mountain, and greatly facilitating access to the castle — now the residence of the President, and the West Point of Mexico. The architecture of the fortress is grand and imposing. With im- mense portholes in its circular towers, and with its massive rounded ThNOCtniTLAN—THE AZTKC CAPITAL. 187 corners, it recalls the feudal castles of the middle ages. The exten- sive wings constitute the military schools. The castle is fitted up and decorated in a manner wortliy of its present occupants, having been frescoed by Casarin, a pupil of Meiy- sonier. The wood work in the President's room is of ebony inlaid with gold. The walls of the drawing-room are covered with satin damask, while the carpet alone cost $2,000. Beyond all question it can be surpassed by few, if any, royal residences in the world. Three hundred and fifty handsome, manly young fellows receive, in the Academy at Chapultcpec, a scientific and military education, free of all charges. It was my pleasure, on one occasion, to witness the drilling of these young cadets ; and I must say that they went through their evolutions with an ease and familiarity that would have reflected credit on our own cadets of West Point. Passing Montezuma's spring and the grand old tree under which he sat, at a short distance and in full view is Molino del Rey, where another sanguinary battle was fought. Within stone's-throw stands the monument which a generous people permitted our government to erect to the memory of the soldiers who fell there. On the eastern and most inaccessible part of the hill is where the American forces stormed the fortress. At this point stands a beauti- ful monument, on wiiich I read tlie following inscription : " To the Memorj' of the Scholars of the Military School, who died like heroes in the North American invasion 13th September, 1847." Every day in the year the students tenderly lay upon it fresh flowers and green garlands in honor of their dead compatriots. Before the battle the cadets formed a sacred compact between themselves never to surrender save in death. Their ages were from fourteen to eighteen years. But they fought like heroes — first one, then another taking the flag, until, still standing and fighting, the last of the gallant forty-eight surrendered his young life in defense of his countr)'. The climate, of which so much has been written, is exceptionally agreeable, )'et difficult to describe. If one can conceive the delights l88 FACE TO FACE IPIT/f THE MEXICANS. of a crisp day in October, united to the brightness of a clear day in January, but without snow or ice, and, mingled with these, the Hfe- giving air of a balmy day in May, and then imagine twelve months of such weather, some idea may be had of this enchanting clime. When Joaquin Miller was asked his opinion of Mexico, he replied enthusiastically : " Mexico ! Why, it is Italy and France and the best part of Spain tied up together in one bunch of rapturous fragrance. There are no such skies as has Mexico. People have got into the habit of talking about the sapphire blue that domes Italy. But it is because travelers, as a rule, go there by way of misty, foggy England, and the contrast is io great as to enchant them. But right here among the grand, restful mountains which rim this valley, I have seen the brightest skies in all my life ; here, six days from Chicago and eight days from Boston, is more than Italy can give. I have seen the cattle and the stars sleep side by side on the mountains! Let me explain. There is generally a mist crowning every mountain peak which shuts out the stars. Here, how different! In my ramblings over the valley at night, the misty curtain is swept away and the stars can be seen all along the ridges. They stand out brilliant in this clear atmosphere. No such atmosphere can be met near Naples or Florence." At the capital I observed the peculiar tints that settle over the mountain peaks in the late evenings. Looking upward from one street, the gazer sees a clear gray; from another, a liquid blue; from another, a bright rose or amber or gorgeous orange; all floating and blending together until the entire heavens are lit up by a bewitching roseate glow, which seems to vibrate gently to and fro in the thin air, while the whole superb canopy is gemmed witii stars, which partake of the glowing tints surrounding them. Later in the night, I have gazed in rapt admiration on the chang- ing of this roseate hue into one so deeply, darkly blue, that to my vision the sky appeared a dome of jetty black, from which myriads of refulgent jewels shone out. The contrast between the works of the Great Architect of the TENOCHTITLAN—1 HE AZThC CAPITAL. 189 Universe and those of man never setmed gieaterthan on turning from this celestial /iew to the mundane scene below. From my point of observation in the Zocalo, vvliere both our modern gas and electric lights flashed their brilliant rays across the wide streets, I could see the sleeping-place of a large proportion of the poorer denizens of the city — their roof, the broad expanse of heaven — their bed, the stone pavement, or at most a. pctatc — the rcboso or scrape forming their sole covering. Here, without inconvenience, these contented people SCENE IN THE ALAMEDA. slept, cuddled up, undisturbed by the yay throngs who walked back and forth around and among them. Everywhere in the republic this out-door life exists. How differ- ent in the northern part of the United States ! When the people there are shivering from intense cold, and all the avenues of travel are blocked with snow and ice, here are perpetual sunshine and flowers. Every climate in the world may be experienced between the sea- shore at Vera Cruz and the capital. Eternal snows lie upon the one igO FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. hand ; on the other, verdant plains and fertile valleys. Even the summer heat and drought on the table-lands are mitigated by the advent of the rainy season, which begins in May and ends with November. It i-- not continuous. The sun may be shining brightly, when suddenly the sky is overcast, and the rain descends in torrents, to be succeeded by sunshine. If two cloudy or rainy days come con- secutively, the people find themselves quite aggrieved, and complain of the awful weather. But the rain usually comes late in the evening or at night ; then the streets, ditches and canals overflow their banks and become merged in an open sea; but in the morning the water has disappeared ; the sun comes out in all his splendor and cheering rays ; the blue sky smiles, and all nature rejoices. At the capital thereare three distinct temperatures — that of the sunny side of the street, that of the shady side, and that in the house. In the morning, walk as early as ten o'clock, on the sunny side of the street, the heat will be almost overpowering. On making a change to the shady side, the difference will be so great as to pro- duce a severe cold, while the light wrap, worn with comfort in the street, will be found insufficient in the house. On reaching an altitude of four thousand feet and upward, strangers, and especially ladies, experience a peculiar dizziness, which continues for several days, after which they usually return to their normal condition. At the capital the elevation above sea-level is 7,349 feet, and during the first week after my arrival I was almost prostrated from this dizziness. Another peculiarity of the climate consists in the fact that it is considered by many to be dangerous to pass suddenly from a closed room to the white light and open air outside. I saw several instances in which incurable blindness w'as said to be produced in this way. The natives understand the importance of moving about the house before going abruptly into the open air. Still another climatic effect is, that the uncovering of the head is apt to produce a severe catarrhal cold. For tliis reason gentlemen never remove their hats for anv length of time when out of doors. TKNOCHTITLAX—THE AZ'IEC CAPITAL. igr According to the Obscrvador Medico, the death rate of the city for 1885 was 13,008, of which 6,431 were females, and 5,577 males. The most frequent causes of death were pulmonary and tuberculous affec- tions, which, with pneumonia and bronchitis, made up an alarming mortality of 4,292 — about one-third of the \.'hole. Contrary to what might be expected, only 179 deaths occurred from small-pox, while typhus and intermittent and malignant fevers claimed but a small number of victims. After lung diseases, diarrhea and dysentery were the most fatal, running up to 2,866. Allowing that the city of Mexico has a population of 350,000, the annual death rate is a trifle over 37 per 1,000. But if we consider that annually thousands of poor Indians from the hot regions come to Mexico and die from exposure and hardship, the real death rate will not exceed from two to three per cent. From its high rate of mortalit}- arises the repu- tation of the capital for extreme unhealthiness ; but with its primitive system of sewerage, imperfect drainage, and poor ventilation of the houses, no surprise should be felt. Any one who witnesses the re- pairing and cleansing of the immense sewer canals that are covered over in the middle of the streets, will certainly wonder that the death rate is not higher. The number of funerals consequent upon sucii a large mor- t a 1 i t y is only equaled by the strange manner in which they are con- ducted. The high- '^^^|fji| est dignitaries of the land and the h u m b 1 e s t peon share equal honors in the mode of tran- s i t employed i n conveying their life- less remains to their IDLERS IN THE ZOCALO. 192 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. last resting-places. It was an astute nineteenth century schemer who conceived the idea of employing the street railways as the best method of transporting the dead to the cemeteries. One man owned all the lines of street railway, and in order to carry out his purposes, he bought up all the hearses and their equipments, and tlius com- pelled the public to accept his plan. It works admirably so far. The wealthy may indulge a hearse car, plumed, draped, liveried, and lackeyed, for $120, with an additional one, or perhaps two, for friends. The plainer cars, drawn by one mule, may be procured for $3, while others reach from $12 to $30, including one or two cars, neatly draped, for mourners. But to the stranger eye, accustomed to seeing the long cortege moving solemnly along the streets, with its hearse and weeping mourners, the Mexican plan seems repulsive and devoid of that re- spect which we pay to the lifeless clay of our loved ones. It reminds one irresistibly of Thomas Noel's famous couplet : " Rattle his bones over the stones ! He's only a pauper, whom noliody owns!"* A short sojourn, however, serves to convince the most skeptical of the " fitness of things," the Mexican method being far more ex- peditious and, it is claimed, less expensive than the old plan. Any day in the week one may take a car for Tacubaya, and there see the Indians transporting their dead to Dolores Cemetery. I have seen four men bearing on their heads the cofTin containing its dead occupant. For miles they tramp steadily along, themselves the only hearse, horses, cortege, or mourners. " In the ihirkness of the forest boughs," with the muffled tread of naked feet, tlicy journey with their dead. At other times one may see a poor woman, bearing upon her head a plain little open coffin, containing her dead child, with eyes wide open and a profusion of gay flowers covering the tiny form. What volumes it tells of the sweetly poetic thoughts, implanted b\' a divine hand in the heart of a poverty-stricken, bereaved Indian mother! * The Pauper's Ride. TENOCHTITLAN—THE AZTEC CAPITAL. 195 The Valley of Mexico is a basin, elliptical in form, about forty miles long by thirty wide. It is rimmed by mountains of porphyry, and its surface is diversified with lakes and hills. The scenery is un- rivaled now as when it first met the enraptured gaze of the Spaniards, who in their enthusiasm exclaimed: " It is the promised land ! " The valley is watered by lakes, both of fresh and salt water. Lake Tezcuco, whose waters once surrounded the capital, has now retreated three miles. A great portion of the valley was once a vast forest, which was denuded by the vandal conquerors. Hardly a vestige remains to tell of past glories save the grove of ancient cypresses at Chapultepec fes- tooned with their melancholy moss. In ever)' direction one may gaze on scenes of beauty and grandeur, while in the distance, but ever in view, are the majestic Popocata- petl towering 17,720 feet over the surrounding mountains — and his less familiar but no less sublime consort, Istaccihuatl, pronounced cs-tdk-se-hwdt' l. Popocatapetl ("Smoking Mountain "), with his tall peak, stands side by side with Iztaccihuatl, familiarly called La Mujcr Blanca, or the Woman in White. The two mountains unite in forming a feature of intense interest to every stranger. The grand old moun- tain, lifting his imposing volcanic cone thousands of feet into the clear sky, seems to keep a majestic watch over the motionless slumbers of the Woman in White. The Smoking Mountain is silent now; but who can predict that the sleeping citizens of Mexico will never more be rudely awakened by his convulsive shakings and awful thunders? The Indians, with their endless legends and traditions, wove a romantic story of these mountains. With their love for the marvelous, they attribute the Titanic mutterings of Popocatapetl to grief for his beautiful Iztaccihuatl, who sleeps on regardless of his thunderous tones. The Woman in White lies stretched out as in a long and peaceful slumber — the rugged brow of the mountain forming the bier upon which she rests. The Toltecs, the Chichimicas, and the Acolhuausmay have pitched 196 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. their tents, and wandered under the shadows, and looked in awe on the grand entombment under the open heavens, of the dead woman. They have come and gone, disappeared forever from the sight of man, but, clad in her garments of perpetual snow, lying on her grand bier, through summer suns and winter frosts, Iztaccihuatl sleeps on. With her arms folded over her ice-clad breast — her knees drawn slightly upward, with the limbs gracefully sloping, the figure of the sleeping woman is completely outlined on the mountain top. Her icy tresses flow unconfined over the dark mountain sides. Thrown over all is a winding-sheet, which falls in graceful folds, covering the dead, frozen woman. Often, when the sun is descending behind the last dome on the western range, she may be seen, with a golden, cloud-made scarf, shaded to pale pink, that finally melts into a ^2M-i.y scrape, which height- ens the mystical charm of this fascinating mountain. The handmaid- ens of the sky who imperceptibly decorate this sleeping lady live and float afar off in the realms of eternal blue ; and by mysterious instinct seem to know when she will look more lovely with a change of her dainty draperies. Stretching down their shadowy fingers, these min- istering spirits catch up the fleecy masses of clouds as they hurry swiftly along, envelop her in their vapory shroud, and imprint kisses on her placid brow, and, whispering mournful words of endearment, pass silently back to their heavenly home. Once, on a visit to Tlalpam * I glanced into the clear waters of a shimmering lake. Reflected on its glassy bosom were these two mountains — peaceful, snow-clad, and as exquisitely limned under the matchless sky as though the water was a canvas, and a giant master- painter had planned and painted the whole grand scene. The immutable laws of God create sublime works of sculpture and sublime paintings. Stand afar from Smoking Mountain and the Woman in White. Stand in their shadows, when the sun is sinking behind their lofty summits. The one rises, bold, rugged, misshapen, * There is no natural lake at this point, but the heavy rains had filled the valley with water. TENOCHTITLAN—THE AZIEC CAPllAL. IQ" and chaotic. It may be, perchance, once on a time, that he was Hntced with the snow-white and pure Iztaccihuatl ; and cliarmed the eye as he nobly towered over her — the two one. But his rude, tumultuous violence severed from his side, nevermore to again return, the Woman in White, who was once a part of his soulless self. His mutterings were heard for a time ; but the fabled anguigh that once found vent is no longer heard ; his grief for his once loved Iztaccihuatl is hushed. Men suffer and are silent, mountains are silent but suffer not. Men and mountains may never grieve, because they may be alike soulless. Contrasting with the dark, gloomy cone that seems to scowl on the scene, ever ready to break out into angry thunders, and startle the sleeping world, is clearly outlined against the sky the Woman in White at rest upon her couch in the peaceful sleep of the just or the dead. Her face is upturned to heaven, white, cold, beautiful, looking into the great unknown depths of the sky, smiling in her hopes of the great hereafter, unmindful of the grim, misshapen cone that towers from afar. CHAPTER VII. THE MEXICANS IN THEIR HOMES. F the Mexicans Brantz Mayer wrote as follows : " I have found them kind, gentle, hospitable, intelligent, benevolent, and brave. . . . In fact, regard them in any way, and they will be found to possess the ele- ments of a fine people, who want but peace and the stimu- lus of foreign emulation to bring them forward among the nations of the earth with great distinc- tion. . . . There are of course in Mexico, as in all countries, specimens of egotism, selfishness, haughtiness, ill-breeding and loose morals, both among the men and the women ; but. although we find these floating, like bubbles, on the top of society, they must not there- fore be considered the characteristics of the country. . . . With domestic virtue, genius, and patriotism, no people need despair; and it should be the prayer of every republican that enough of these still remain in Mexico to reconstruct their government and society." In speaking of their politeness, Mayer continues: "The 'old school ' seems to have taken refuge among the Mexicans. They are formally, and, I think, substantially, the politest people I have met with. The respect for age, the sincerity of friendship, the results of reading and education, and the honest, unpretending naturalness of THE MEXICANS IX THEIR HOMES. 1 99 character, for which, over all other people I have ever met, I think the best of them are remarkable." . . . "The fine benevolence of ancient friendship, the universal respect for genius, a competent knowledge of the laws and institutions of other countries, a perfect acquaintance with the cause of Mexican decadence, and a charming regard for all those domestic rites which cement the affections of a home circle may all be observed and admired within the walls of a Mexican dwelling." * Brantz Mayer, above all other writers, not even excepting Madame Calderon de la Barca, has observed more closely and written more sympathetically and faithfully of Mexican characteristics. In dealing with this subject, it will be understood that reference is had only to the higher and more cultured classes of society. During the more than forty years intervening since this dis- tinguished writer gave expression to these views, ten years only of which have brought to Mexico the precious boon of peace, the changes occurring and the onward march of events in that country have proved the correctness of his assertions. With every possible distracting cause, calculated to foster and encourage ignoble traits and retrograde ideas, they have not only continued brave and patriotic, but their social and domestic institutions have remained sacredly intact. Let the unsympathizing comment as they may upon the hapless fate of poor Mexico, it is not to be gainsaid that perhaps no country in the world has politically presented a more desolate picture, nor yet one that speaks a nobler lesson. But by sympathetic intuition a woman attributes to the women of Me.xico that undercurrent of social and domestic regeneration which has purified and preserved her institutions. While the men have been engrossed in war and revolution, with their train of direful re- sults, the women, in the seclusion of their homes, have kept an ever- * Mexico Its it Il'as and as it Is, by Mayer, and Madame Barca's Li/f in Mexico, were published about the same time, the former in 1844, Madame B.'s in 1S43. Mayer was Sec- retary of the American Legation under the Hon. Powhatan Ellis, and the latter was the wife of the first Spanish Minister who was sent to Mexico after the War of Independence. 200 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. faithful watch over the domestic virtues, and the happiness and wel- fare of those whom God has given them. In repose, there is in the eye of every Mexican an expression of deep sadness which is hardly accounted for by recent history, however tragic, and must have been transmitted to the race through the miseries of martial conquests. It has occurred to me that the women have inherited a larger portion of this constitutional melancholy than the men. I have been more convinced of it on meeting and conversing with them in their own homes. When the death of a member of the family was referred to, which had taken place years before — perhaps a son or a husband killed in battle — the grief seemed as deep and uncontrollable as if it had happened on that day. They are all patriotic, and if the country suffers, it is a part of themselves, and is reflected in their lives. The Mexicans are by nature close observers of physiognomy, and, though shy, are sharp critics of the bearing of strangers. Their extreme isolation has probably added to the natural impulse. It does not follow that they criticise adversely ; bat they weigh one's lightest syllable in their own balances. Upon their first coming in contact with a stranger, they expect him to look them clearly in the face ; and be sure they are watching every movement and expression with the keenest suspicion. Whatever may be their own failings, they are wonderfully endowed with the power to " fix you with the eye ;" and you are expected to meet it bravely, and not to quail under the penetrating glance. To an infinite degree are the women expert in reading character, probably more so than our own more world- experienced and educated countrywomen. It is no matter of surprise that they are distrustful of strangers, when the most they have known of them has been in the way of armed forces seeking to crush out their national existence. Their hospitality, too, having so often met with unwarrantable criticism personally and in the press, they cannot be expected to welcome the stranger over their threshold without caution and misgiving. THE MEXICANS IN THEIR HOMES. 20I A kindly and sympathetic warmth is alvvays heartily reciprocated, while coldness at once repels. To desire their friendship is to de- serve it, especially if the wish be tempered by the observance of the golden rule. No people are better aware of their national, political, and social defects, but, being sensitive, nervous, and very proud, an adverse criticism from the thoughtless and ungenerous stranger naturally wounds, and induces that reserve which is so largely na- tional, and which it is so difficult to overcome. When a disposition is manifested to meet them on equal terms of friendly good-will, and proper deference is shown to their customs, it will be found that no people are more delightful, socially, more faithful as friends, or more ready to serve the stranger from whatever land, than the Mexicans. Hospitality is one of the national characteristics, but it is of a nature peculiar to itself, and, contrary to our customs, the latch-string hangs on the inside, for the court circles of Europe are not more ex- clusive than the higher classes of society in Mexico. The architect- ure of the houses — their barred windows and well-guarded doors, which prevent intrusion from prying curiosity — together with the climate and customs, conspire to incline the people to lead exclu- sive lives. It is manifested even in the choice of vehicles, closed car- riage being almost invariably used, though with such air and skies the reverse might naturally be expected. The first aspiration, with them, is to make home beautiful, and to this end every element of a cultured and refined taste is duly provided and cared for within the massive doors. The exquisite beauty of the rare and gorgeous flowers in tlie patios affords constant pleasure by day, while by night tliey have only to glance upward to obtain wondrous visions of a star-gemmed firmament. Letters of introduction, even, will not always secure access to the inner circle of the home life. Comparatively speaking, few are accorded this privilege. But when once admitted by personal friends, especially if accompanied by them on the first visit, all formality and reserve are at an end, and the most gracious attentions are freely be- 202 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS- stowed, the veriest stranger feeling that he is no longer such. A genuine glow of pleasure has often been mine on finding that their inborn distrust of foreigners had melted away in my first intercourse with them. On passing many handsome houses in the large cities, and halting to admire the beauty and luxuriance of the flowers in the court, on seeing me the gentle voice of the ducua dc la casa (lady of the house) would bid me enter and inspect them to my satisfaction. When this was done, and my hands filled with flowers, I was invited to the sala, chocolate ordered, and on departing — certain we would never meet again — a warm embrace, a cordial shake of the hand, and a "Vaya V. con Dios ! " ("God be with you "), heartily given. They are endowed by nature with a highly nervous and sensitive organization, with jealousy for a birthright ; and amongst intimate friends of their own nationality they are easily offended, but less so with foreigners. And I have observed that the higher the altitude the more evident are these tendencies, attributable, probably, to both climate and elevation. Much as the Mexicans love their homes, their language contains no word expressive of the meaning of the word " home." They have only casa (house), and hogar, but little used and lacking euphony. Another fact — the absence of chimneys, depriving them of the pleas- ures of the fireside, renders it only natural that they should seek diversion outside. The balmy air invites them to life al fresco, con- sequently the morning promenade, which usually includes the mass at church, the afternoon drive, and perhaps the theater at niglit, consti- tute their chief sources of outdoor recreation and amusement. No people more eminently possess the faculty of entertaining their friends in a royally hospitable way. An assemblage of five hun- dred guests is as well taken care of as fifty, and no one feels neglected. They are convivial and joyous, mingling freely with one and all ; gay sallies of wit and sparkling repartee rule the hour. But, at the same time, a remarkable dignity characterizes their every movement. In the majority of the towns and cities the ringing of the cathe- dral bells, at ten o'clock, calls the people from their places of recrea- ENTRANCE TO A MEXICAN HOME. THE MEXICANS IN THEIK HOMES. 205 tion to their homes, and the streets become as quiet and silent as the campo santo (grave-yard). In all their professions of friendship, I have found them frank and sincere, and untiring in their demonstrations to the favored person who has won their regard. While this sincerity is unquestionable, they are yet gifted in a high degree with the prett)' art of evasion. Let one who has had trouble confide in them, and let them be but fully convinced that they are the trusted custodians of such confidence, and nothing can induce them to betray the trust so reposed. The penalty of severest punishment cannot wring from them a secret in- trusted to them. But by the dainty manipulation of their admirable tact and diplomacy, the inquirer is satisfied and not one syllable be- trayed. As well try to make an incision in the side of Popocatapetl with a penknife as extract from a Mexican what he does not want to tell you. It is asserted by some writers that there is no middle class. It is my opinion, founded upon careful observation and inquiry, that there is not only at this time a very large and influential middle class, but that every year it gains large accessions from the humbler class, who are making giant strides to a nobler place in life through the fine educational advantages now afforded them. In this connection I must say that, while access to the higher strata of society is difficult, the middle class vie with them in their hospitality, never turning a stranger from their doors, and some of the most delightful acts of courtesy and kindness that I ever met with in that country have been extended me by the ever faithful and gentle middle class. With them letters of introduction are unnecessary. They may not own their homes, but there is an air of pretty neat- ness about their houses ; an unobstructed freedom, a gentleness of manner, which I say unqualifiedly is not equaled anywhere. It is from this class that are springing up every year men of genius and talent, of unremitting toil and study, which will enable them to take that honored station in their chosen field of labor which, in all coun- tries, is the reward of untiring patience and fidelity to any cause. 2o6 FACE TO FACE HFTH THE MEXICAA'S. The forms of greeting and salutation are numerous, and among tliem none is so distinctively national as the abrazo. Men fall into each other's arms and remain thus for several minutes, patting each other on the shoulder and indulging in all sorts of endearing epithets. Another form, rather less diffuse, may be seen any time on the street and promenade, not only among men, but also between friends of opposite sex. In the quickest, most spirited manner, the arms of both parties are outstretched ; they rush together for a second, their breasts barely touch, and while the observer is watching for a kiss to follow this ardent salute, they separate and the abrazo is finished. The extreme frankness accompanying it compels one to rather ad- mire the custom ; for it means no more than hand-shaking among Americans. A mere introduction between men assumes elaborate proportions. Sefior Calderon says: " I have the honor to present to you my friend, Sefior Ojeda, a merchant of this city ; " whereupon Seflor Ojeda replies: "Your obedient servant. Your house (meaning his own) is in Street, where I am at your orders for all that you may wish ; " or, " My house is mny a su disposicion " ("' entirely at your disposal ; make yourself at home "). From this profusion of politeness, doubtless, has arisen the im- pression that the Mexicans are devoid of sincerity ; when in truth the recipient of such offers would alone deceive himself should he suppose that the Mexican proposed to make him a gift of his house. Hand-shaking goes to extremes. If friends meet twenty times a day, the ceremony must be gone through as often. It is not sufficient for gentlemen merely to touch the hat-brim, in passing each other or aqy friend ; but the hat is removed entirely from the head, whether driving, riding, or walking. I noticed a little pantomime they go through when one gives a light to another. He draws his right hand quickly to his breast, in a second extends it out- ward, tipping his hat-brim three times, which is all repeated by the one who has lighted his cigar. I saw on Calle Plateros, one day, two splendid carriages each THE MEXICANS IN THEIR HOMES. 207 occupied by one man. On seeing each other, the carriages were halted, both alighted, removed hats, shook hands, embraced, talked for a few moments, again embraced, shook hands, bowed, took off hats, and each entered his carriage and went his way. Among women the salutation assumes a more confidential form ; the stranger receives a gentle tap of the right hand upon the left shoulder, and then a generous shake of the hand ; while more inti- mate friends not only tap each other, but also kiss, not on the lips, however, merely laying the cheeks softly together. The Mexican mode is to be commended. A lady admires some ornament or article of wearing apparel ; instantly the possessor gracefully informs her it is " muy a sic ordcn " (" at your orders "). Changing residence requires that cards be sent announcing the fact, and placing it " wwj' a s// ordcn" otherwise visiting ceases. Young babies are also placed " tnuv a su orden." In writing notes of invitation, the Mexican lady always closes with, " We will expect you here, at such an hour, at your house." A vein of sentiment and poetry, however, runs through every detail of their lives, which forms the motive power of that fastidious nicety which regulates social intercourse. A spray of flowers sent as a token w 11 be first pinned over the heart, the pin left in it, indicat- ing the pledge as a part of the personality of the donor, hence more sacred ; or a note may contain a pansy, with a dainty motto inscribed on its petals. In letter writing or in making a formal acknowledgment, polite- ness and high-bred courtesy govern ; even the President would make himself the individual under obligation. No gifts are made at Christmas, but on "El Alio Niicvo" ("The New Year") tokens of all sorts and kinds, and cards, are sent to friends, with " fclicilacioncs." Visiting is the same as in all well-regulated society, e.xcept that strangers must send their cards and make the first call. A short visit is not appreciated, as it would indicate coldness and formality. Everything is given up to the guest, let the time be long or short, 208 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. and a Mexican lady never continues the performance of any duty, however urgent, or engages in anything that would distract her atten- tion from her guests. On entering a Mexican home, after an absence of months or years, if you are an old friend, the reception you meet with is overwhelm- ingly joyful. Every member of the household in turn gives you an embrace ; you are seated on the right-hand end of the sofa, and then a thousand kind inquiries follow in regard to relatives, and many in- terchanges of thought and incidents that have occurred in your absence. You are allowed to do nothing for yourself, for the entire family, from the least to the greatest, perform a part in entertaining and making you feel at home. But it is a difficult point in Mexican etiquette, that of seating visitors. Guest and host vie with each other in politeness, and some- times several minutes are occupied in this courteous contest. On leaving, the visitor is always entreated to remain longer, but when he must go, they " speed the parting guest " with all the fervor with which he is received. Gentlemen bow first on the street, but ladies have tiie advantage in the house ; for even if the President were to call, the lady of the house is not expected to rise from her seat to receive him. In walking, ladies hold the right arm of the gentleman. The right- hand side of the back seat of a carriage, and the right-hand end of a sofa, are the places of honor reserved for the guest. At balls introductions are not necessary for gentlemen to ask ladies to dance, and in private houses all are supposed to be ladies and gentlemen. A lady retains her maiden name in marriage, and her visiting cards are engraved with her own name with the prefix of dc before her hus- band's — as, Josefina Bros de Riva Palacio. Madame de Iturbide, as known in the United States and Europe, in Mexico is simply Alicia G. de Iturbide. It is better for foreigners to have visiting cards engraved after the fashion of the country if they intend mingling with Mexican society. THE MEXICAXS IN THEIR HOMES. 20() Mexicans are as fastidious in the style and quality of paper and envelopes as in everything else ; even the minutest detail is'de rigcur. In high society, only the finest paper, with monogram in gold or silver, or elaborately engraved with the name inside the monogram, is se- lected. Some of the daintiest informal little notes I have seen, passed between lady friends — written on the finest paper, and then by deft fingers folded in the form of a leaf or flower, with the address on one tiny petal. In all correspondence the riibrica or fir ma must be used; neither the nature of what is written, nor the name, has any signifi- cance without the peculiar flourish beneath. This is taught in the schools, and the more elaborate the better. The riibrica is a receipt, a part of every business obligation or social correspondence. Every public document closes with ''Libcrtad y Indcpendencia" ox ^'Libcrtad en la Constitution" and in sending an agent to a foreign country, every document relating to the business bears his photograph — perhaps a wise precaution. In exchanging photographs, it is customary to dedicate them with a pretty sentiment or verse, and the date — not infrequently the age, also — is added. Smoking publicly is not now customary with senoritas, but I have been told they indulge in this harmless and, with them, graceful pas- time in private. Matrons smoke without reserve, and as a matter of course, men are habituate'd to the indulgence everywhere — no place in the house being exempt from the odor of the cigarette. Pipes are not used, and a delightful offset to smoking is that there is no chewing. Many of their forms of daily and general politeness may seem empty and meaningless ; but there is no more insincerit)' intended than in some of our own social small coin. It will be borne in mind also that these are not the characteristics of cities or city people, but belong equally to smaller towns and villages. In mingling with the people, their hospitalities and courtesies should be received in the same kindly spirit in which they are given. Even in the country, on lonely haciendas, ever_ything is free and open-handed. Your servants have the freedom of the kitchen and 2IO FACE TO FACE IV/JH THE .VEX/CAJVS. stables, the host gives up to you his place at the table, and often, on resuming the journey, will ride half a day, to lead you safely through some mountain defile or dangerous, bandit-infested place — and tlien the parting is as earnest and as zealous as word and manner can make it. Natives of climes more frigid may contrast the formal bow, the re- straint and stiffness of a possible shake of the hand, and the greeting commonly observed by their own countrymen, with the native ease and graceful cordiality to be met with here. Hence, an introduction into a select circle in Mexico makes a never-to-be-forgotten episode in the life of the favored stranger, cementing the ties which bind him to the countr}-. Wherever the fates may direct him, he will often experience a yearning to revisit a land where he was ever the recipient of a gra- cious courtesy scarcely to be found elsewhere. But few Mexicans, save those in diplomatic service, take up their permanent residence in other countries, especially among the Anglo-Saxons. The coldness and formality they there encounter freeze their own warm and cordial manner. Like the Frenchman, the Mexican talks quite as much with hands and eyes as with his tongue. He shrugs also, but not so unceas- ingly as his brother Latin. These gestures are rendered very attractive by the appropriate and graceful manner in which they are used. They are seen as much in the street or horse-cars as in the house. One of the prettiest and most cunning of all the hand motions is called Bcso Soplado, throwing kisses by gathering the finger of the right hand in a close group, touching the lips, then throwing them out fan-like, at the same time blowing on the hand as it is outstretched toward the object for whom the demonstration is intended, thus indi- cating that five kisses are given at once. Illustration No. i of these movements, " un moiiiciitito," signifies the desire to postpone a departure or return, or the performance of some duty, then necessary. In a twinkling the taper fingers ex- THE MEXICAXS IN THEIR HOMES. ' One little 2\ I press this without uttering a word, moment ! " Everybody uses it. No. 2. ''El no quicrc gastar diiicro" (" He owes money but is very stingy, and from not using it to get the money, out of his pocket, his arm has grown too stiff to reach into his pocket for the money, consequently he is unable to pay his debts "). No. 3. " Muy bicenviolinista" literally means one who plays well on the violin, but in this instance he plays, instead, on the credulity and NO. I. " ONE LITTLE MOMENT." NO. 2. HE IS TOO STINGY TO PAY HIS DEBTS."' NO. 3. *' HE PLAYS ON THE CRE DULIT\' OF HIS FRIENDS." verdancy of his friends. He plays ofT on them by inviting himself to dine with them, having little or nothing to eat at home, thus support- ing himself on their involuntary hospitality. No. 4. " Time bastantc dincro " ( " He or she has plenty of money "). No. 5. " Miij' critico/o" ("It is quite doubtful in my mind"). I have seen three persons in conversation, one being /^S*^ engaged in relating some circumstance or event, the '^-// otlier two paying marked attention. When at length the 'vj"/ narrator made a digression from facts, or added a few ^l^*-' / embellishing touches, one of the listeners, without speak- '^ ' ing a word, but throwing a world of expression into her NO. 4. " she's VERY . ,, , ,. ., J^..! ^■ RICH, HAS PLENTY cycs, tosscd lier head to one side, and at the same time OF MONEY." planting the forefinger of the right hand on the temple, the little boring process is gone through, and the unspoken language 14 212 FACE TO FACE WJ'IH THE MEXICANS. has conveyed also the thought of the other listener, and both are happy. NO. 5. A VERY GREAT CRITIC. NO. 6. "adios." No. 6. " Adios," the universal good-bye, or in saluting an acquaint- ance then passing. No. 7. " He's a sharper ! Don't you trust him ! He'll deceive and cheat you without mercy." No. 8. Salutation in the street, or from a fair Juliet in her win- NO. 7. "HE S A SHARPER. NO. 8. SALUTATION FROM BALCONY. dovv ; one of the most graceful and beautiful of the endless sign- manual. It will be seen that it is the middle and third fingers only that move rapidly back and forth, and not the whole hand. No. 9. " A'o cs costu7nbrc" — literally an expression of negation, so named from impressions received during my first sojourn in the country. Even children in their play use it when wishing to say, " You can't do that now, I sha'n't play with you." THE MEXICAXS IN THEIR HOMES. 213 NO. 9. " VOU can't do that now/' An irrevocable edict has gone forth when that prophetic lorefiniier goes upward and outward before the end of the nose. The laws of the Medes and Persians maybe evaded, but " no cs costzanbre " never. In no country are family ties stronger. The thought of separation is to them fraught with un- speakable anguish, and even after marriage it is not unusual to see half a dozen families living in the same house, daughters with their husbands and sons with their wives remaining under the paternal roof. The time never comes in the lives of the parents when the children are not more or less amenable to them. Grown sons and daughters do not forget the respect and obedience that were expected of them when children. The reverence for parents goes with them in their wedded lives, and even increases with the lapse of years. A man never grows too old to kiss the hands of his aged parents or to visit them every day if they reside in the same city, and the daughters do the same. When the marital knot is tied, the women accommodate them- selves to whatever fate may have in store for them with that grace and fortitude which belong to them, rarely equaled and never sur- passed. The time never comes in which they feel their burdens too great to be borne with patience. They go but little into society or mixed assemblages, consequently their earthly happiness is summed up in home, husband, children. Their outward deportment corresponds with the interior calm. Whether riding, driving, or walking, they always retain a decorum and dignity of manner peculiar to themselves. To express emotion or sur- prise in public is not considered becoming. In all my intercourse with them, I have seen but two who used the trenchant weapon of sarcasm ; in their hands it cut like a two-edged sword, and in each case their own countrymen were the victims. Among the earliest lessons of Christianity inculcated by the Fran- ciscan missionaries were love, charity, and self-denial, and the outcome 2 14 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. of these teachings of nearly four centuries may be seen to-day in the beautiful graces and charities of the Mexican women. These high lessons, exemphfied in the lives of the teachers, were received grate- fully and practiced faithfully by the warm-hearted people. To feed the hungry, clothe the naked, relieve the distressed, and entertain the stranger— surely there is no nobler mission ! Every battle-field on their soil has left its records of their tender devotion to '• prisoners and captives," without regard to name or nationality. Our American soldiers, when in an enemy's country, with death staring them in the face, have borne grateful witness to their patient and tireless nursing. The Texas and Santa Fe Expe- dition, in 1841, written by George Wilkins Kendall, fully portrays the kindnesses of these noble-hearted women. In a march of two thousand miles, from Santa F^, in New Mexico, to the capital, the condition of the unhappy prisoners was everywhere ameliorated by the women, who, moved by pity, never failed to bring them food — the best they had — and on every opportunity tenderly cared for the sick and foot-sore Americans. But, before the dawn of Christianity in Mexico, the women prac- ticed a noble order of charity. When Netssaliiialeoyotl, the young prince of Tezcuco, was fleeing from his enemies, weary and dust- stained, he suddenly found himself in the presence of a young girl who was reaping chia in the fields. He hastily informed her of his danger and entreated her aid. She was moved to pity, and, telling hiin to lie down, covered him with leaves and stalks of the maguey. When his pursuers came up, they inquired if she had seen him. " Yes," she replied, "he has gone by yon road," pointing in tlie opposite direction — which saved him. Although there are hospitals, homes, and public charities in every city, still there are not only numerous beggars, but blind, maimed, and distressed persons — real objects of charity — seeking aid from the more fortunate members of society. Assistance is never denied ; even little children take by the hand, with the sympathetic " pohrecito ! " (" poor creature "), and lead into the house, some poor creature to be THE MEXICANS IN THEIR HOMES. 21 5 fed and cared for, having been taught to pity and never to ridicule or despise personal afflictions. The housekeeper is supplied with home remedies, that she may give effect to her charitable interest in the sick and miserable. In many places, ladies of high position on a saint's day will unite in giving a dinner to the poor. Each one contributes to the feast, and then, with her daughters and friends, waits on the squalid guests. Theatrical and musical entertainments are also frequently given for charitable purposes. Poverty, while greatly to be deplored, is not considered a disgrace. Almost every wealthy family has its full quota of poor relations, who in many instances fill the places of housekeeper or upper servants. But at the same time they are provided for comfortably and kindly. Even where means are limited, it is common to see in a household several children outside the immediate family taken from time to time, and cared for by the tender-hearted lady of the house. Two of the most interesting young people whose acquaintance I made at the capital were the descendants of a humble Indian woman. With her sick babe, only a month old, lying in her rcbozo, homeless and unfriended, she trudged through the rain at dusk. A charitable lady, from the interior of a luxurious home, witnessed the scene, and calling the woman, took the babe to her heart as if it were her own. She proposed to her to adopt the child, promising a mother's care. The trust was sacredl)- kept, and although this lady afterward became the mother of fifteen children, the poor waif was one of the many, and developed into a lovely woman. She married an accom- plished gentleman and bore several children, but to the day of her death she knew nothing of her origin. The religious observances, as well as the customs of the country, are kept up mainly by the women. The men naturally become more cosmopolitan through travel and contact and intercourse with the outside world. But whatever the cause, scarcely a man of educa- tion can be found who does not proclaim himself a deist or an atheist. 2 l6 FACE TO FACE U'lTlI THE MEXICANS. But if a long illness ensue, or death appear inevitable, the priest and the holy sacrament are at once ordered. So I have come to the conclusion that they consider the expression of irreligious sentiments when in health indicative of liberal ideas, and showing a sympathy with the " advanced " thought of the age. While they adopt the theory that " the first req- uisite of man is to be a good animal," in the hour of trial they fall back on the time- honored consolations. But, despite their lack of creed or religious faith, there is one respect in which hus- bands of other nations might learn from them a profitable lesson. They generously be- lieve that their wives are fully entitled to an equal share of their business profits and to the expending of their income. The wife is not subjected to the humiliation of begging a pittance, but the whole matter is left to her own good judg- ment. It is only justice to say that courtesy and kindness are almost invariably with them the rule in the family. It is a knightly spirit which impels the men to the belief that their women are not capable of sustaining the burdens of life. And when a man marries, if his wife have a widowed mother and sisters without means of support, it never occurs to him that it is not his dut)' to keep and maintain tlicm. These offices they cheerfully accept as I^TERIOK OF LHAfRL ON iHE HACIENDA OF SKNORA GUADAI-UPE BROS. THE MEXICANS IN THEIR HOMES. Z\- an hereditary right, without regard to the attainments or accnm- phshments which might be turned to account. This chivalric conduct extends stiU further, in view of tiie fact that estates of orphans and widows are administered with much care and honest effort. No dread Nemesis pursues the Mexican in the form of a mother-in-law, for, even if there be room for criticism, she may counsel, but she never interferes. In many homes I have seen the husband regularly, three times a day, bring from the court-yard a flower to lay on the wife's plate. And such little attentions are not meaningless. I have also know n many instances where the husband fondly insisted on the wife placing herself at the table, so that she might be excused from serving either the soup or coffee — saying, " The care of the children was enough for her." , There is little or no intoxication among them. At the club or in their homes they may imbibe too freely, but the effects are never apparent in the street. In social life there are certainly no more agreeable companions than educated Mexican gentlemen, and they are still more delightful when one comes to know them intimately upon the basis of friendship, time and means being alike at one's disposal ; and wherever fate may lead, they follow the fortunes of their friends. One American family whom I knew were kindly conveyed on their journey of five hundred miles, over a rough and barren country, and nothing would induce the generous Mexican to receive one cent in compensation ; and further, the moso who drove them, and the one who rode ahead to ward off interlopers also declined any compensa- tion, saying, " It was the master's orders." Some of the grandest public benefactions that I have ever seen were endowed by Mexican men ; not only hospitals of every kind, but also institutions of learning. An instance I recall, is that of Eve- risto Madero, ex-Governor of Coahuila, who devoted his entire salary during his term of office to establishing public schools in his State. The taste for ceremonious display and profusion is national, and 2l8 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. enters into all arrangements, whether of house, dress, or equipage, being limited only by the means for its indulgence. If rustic chairs, cornices, or brackets are used, the dainty fingers of the housewife adorn them, until they lose the rough, unpolished appearance of the native boughs, by means of gilding, bronze, and gay paints, the whole combined into a brilliant mosaic. Pots containing their lovely plants are draped with mosses pecu- liar to the country, exhibiting only the beautiful. But in striking con- trast to these natural flowers blooming the year round I have fre- quently seen in handsome houses huge artificial plants in pots, with exaggerated coloring in foliage and flowers. A love for all bright and lovely objects is innate with these chil- dren of the sun. Gorgeous flowers, trailing vines, Chinese lanterns, paintings hung in corridor or patio, brilliant-hued singing-birds, all com- bine to form a scene of Oriental richness and beauty. Notwithstanding the apparent tendency to prodigality, the ut- most care is taken in every detail of domestic economy. The carriage, with its silver mountings bright and glistening, stands in the zaguan ready for the drive at a moment's notice, but when not in use, carriage, horses and harness are all in their proper places, in the best possible order. On the first visit, a guest is cordially shown through the house by its mistress, who may well take pride in its spotless condition. The Mexican housekeeper dreads nothing more than an insignificant par- ticle of polvo (dust) in any part of her domain. Great care is bestowed on the marking of household linen, the hus- band's initials or monogram being exquisitely embroidered on each article. Merely to write the name in ink does not suffice, not being considered in keeping with a refined taste. The bedsteads are of either brass or iron — in wealthy families of the former — and almost universally single. Much ingenuity is expended in the draping of filmy laces in canopies of various shapes, daintily caught back with bright ribbons and flowers, while the greatest pains are taken in the execution of elaborate embroideries, laces, tatting, (/ 5 THE MEXICANS IN THEIR HOMES. 221 and crochet for coverings, those with drawn threads being the most distinctively national. But with all this industry piled up, I have never seen in the country our well-known, if homely, patchwork quilt. Pillows are more numerous than with us. I have counted thirteen on one bed, made of either wool or cotton (feathers are limited to the few), very thin and narrow, graded and piled up, pyramid like, and all trimmed uniformly with lace. Lace curtains are prime essentials of a well-arranged home and adorn every opening, but I have seen none of our gay chintzes or cretonnes used in this way. Mirrors are indispensable, and with the careful forethought of the housewife, one invariably occupies a place over the sofa, while another hangs on the opposite wall, directly be- fore you. On entering the sala, the most noticeable feature is the sofa, with its invariable accompaniment of four chairs — two large and two smaller ones — placed at either end of the sofa, parallel to each other and vis-a vis. The unusual number of chairs in most of the houses is surprising, and suggests occasions of reunion as their raison d'etre ■. and regardless of wealth or station, the method of arrangement is the same, extend- ing around the room in unbroken lines, except when met by the sofa or the triangular tables that fill the corners. The parlor furniture of the '.vealthy is extremely handsome : upholstered in damask, either pure white, or in shades of blue, pink, or crimson, supported by stately frames of gold or silver ; with carpet corresponding in style. But the furniture in more general use has wooden frames covered with bright reps ; the cushion of each, with its dainty, home-wrought lace cover, tables with the same, all fitting to a nicety make a unique and harmo- nious effect. Plainer houses have the same unbroken lines of home- made chairs (the sofacita before described), with the same tables and arrangement. Here one will see as pretty home-made laces and drawn-thread work as in the grand houses. Surrounded by so many evidences of a refined and luxurious taste, the absence of books and pictures is conspicuous. Private collections are few, but in ever\- large city there is a public bihiiotcca (library), of 222 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS which the men and boys avail themselves, but the desire for knowl- edge is not yet sufficiently urgent for these institutions to be much patronized by women. On the great Tacuba highway, at the eastern extremity of the Alameda on the right, at Mariscala No. 2, stands a mansion typical of the wealth and luxury of the capital. This stately edifice is the home of General Vicente Riva Palacio, the distinguished statesman, soldier, and litterateur. The house is entered as usual through the sagiian, from which a spacious stairway, branching to right and left, leads to the principal apartments. A bronze statue of Guerrero, a leading hero of the Inde- pendence war, who was grandfather of the owner of the house, now stands as seen in the illustration. The stairs and floors of the corri- dors and halls are of the finest Italian marble; while around and on either side are tropical plants of every shade and tint ; and on the north side swings an aviary filled with bright-hued singing birds. The house contains about fifty rooms, including three parlors, a grand salon and two smaller ones, all fitted up luxuriously. The oratorio (chapel) is impressive with its altar handsomely draped, and the picture of the Virgin Guadalupe in the center — crosses, silver candelabra, kneeling-stools in plush and gold, magnificent vestments, and I was surprised and pleased to see, on either side, American mottoes — " In God we trust," and "God bless our home." Quite near the chapel is the comcdor grandc (.large dining-room), which is, perhaps, 100 feet in length and 50 in width. The furniture is of native rosewood and mahogany, wrought in most tasteful designs, while the floor glistens like glass, in its varied mosaics of rare and peculiar woods. Mirrors alternate with the massive side boards, with their rare marble slabs from the quarries of Puebla. In different receptacles were no fewer than 3,000 pieces of china, man_\- of them hand-painted in the flowers of the country, 2,000 pieces of crystal, and silver that for quantity, variety, and brightness was truly dazzling. Included in this was the magnificent silver service THE MEXICANS IN THEIR HOMES. 223 I I iiiMfiM^tnfiM STAIRWAY IN THE PALACIO HOME. sent by Francis Joseph, Emperor of Austria, engraved with the roj'al arms, to Mariano Palacio, father of the present owner of the house, as a token of gratitude for his voluntar}' and noble defense of Maxi- milian. 224 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. Smaller rooms are used by the family informally. The table linen, of finest texture, includes cloths with monogranr elaborately embroidered at either end, and napkins for every possible use, many representing the talent, industry, and ingenuity of the women of Mexico, being hemstitched, embroidered, or ornamented with that original lace — the drawn-thread work — for which they are famous. While on the subject of needle-work, I must mention that I was shown about thirty of the most elegant bed-spreads on which my eyes ever rested. They consisted of velvet, silk, satin, plush, lace, crochet, with various kinds of embroidery as center-pieces ; all quite adequate to arouse feelings of hvely admiration. The sheets, of snowy linen, are hemstitched and embroidered, sometimes several inches in depth. The pillow-cases correspond in style, the whole forming a collection of rare needle-work which seemed to amount to thousands of pieces. The sleeping apartments, in addition to every article of luxury and ease, are furnished with single brass bedsteads, over each of which is suspended a canopy of delicate lace, caught up with flowers and bright ribbons, forming a veritable bower. The sala grande bears evidence of an immense expenditure, every thing being of European importation. In size it corresponds with the dining-room. The carpet is shaded from pale pink to bright crim- son ; the furniture in frames of gold, upholstered in the same shades of the carpet. Grand chandeliers costing thousands of dollars are suspended from the ceiling ; mirrors and sconces are arranged on the walls, and lace curtains of daintiest weft shade the windows. In this apartment I again encountered the beautiful hand embroidery of Doha Josefina, the noble and lovely wife of General Palacio, in the chairs, ottomans, and hassocks, all executed in the finest Japanese de- signs, some of which she told me had occupied her time for six months. I must also mention the ceilings of this mansion. Some 30 feet in height, they rest on heavy beams of wood, laid crosswise of the room, each one perhaps 18 inches in depth, the whole giving an effect of massive grandeur. The beams are tinted to correspond TJiE MEXICANS /\ THEIR HOMES. 225 With the ceihngs and walls, and ornamented with lines of gold. These lines also panel the walls, and outline doors and windows. The azotca, a notable feature in the architecture of the Aztecs, still adorns these square-topped buildings. At the capital they are constructed of brick, and form a delightful promenade at all seasons. As the houses are joined together, one may walk over the entire square, as I had the pleasure of doing. The study of General Palacio contains, perhaps, one of the finest collections of books and manuscripts in the republic. He possesses a large number of the original documents of the Inquisition hand- somely bound ;• also a valuable foreign library, comprising books in many languages. The door of the case containing the books of the Inquisition opens over a winding stairway, and the carpet is fitted to a nicety over the semicircle which opens and closes with the door, giv- ing ingress and egress to the private study below. When the General opened the door of this case, I came near going headlong below, and the thought flashed through my mind that I was verily descending to the vaults of the Inquisition, not knowing that the door of the book- case was also that of the dark stairway. I was, however, rescued by my friends, and made the descent in the usual way. I would here re- mark that these spiral stairways are a prominent feature of Mexican architecture. In the room below there is a handsome case containing the swords of General Francisco Xavier Mina and Vicente Guerrero ; the feath- ers — pink and white — worn by the Emperor Iturbide on his hat when entering the city in 1821 ; a bronze cast of Napoleon; and the origi- nal sentence of Picaluga, who betrayed Guerrero into the hands of his enemies, besides many Indian curios and bric-a-brac. In another room were the chair of Hidalgo and the saddle that Maximilian rode the day he was captured. .Some idea of the immense collection of books, manuscripts, legal documents, and literary works of General Palacio may be gained, when I say that eight handsome rooms in this grand house are devoted exclusively by him to his scientific and literary pursuits — the large 226 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. Study upstairs, from which we descended by means of the winding stairway, and seven rooms on the ground floor, running from the front windows on the sidewalk, along the patio, far to the rear. On the opposite side is the famil}' theater, capable of seating two hundred persons, beautifully arranged and decorated. The drop-curtain and scenery are painted from native subjects. In the season a select com- pany occupy the boards — sometimes varied by amateurs — and play to crowded houses of friends. THE SAIJ\ GKANDE IN THE lU.ALl*' Hu.ME. In the rear aaguan, a carriage is ever ready for the drive, while immediately behind this is an exquisite fairy-like grotto, with its fountain, creeping tropical vines and gorgeous flowers, distinctly v'isi- ble from the sidewalk through the open doors. On one side are various baths, and still beyond, sewing rooms; while on the other are the numerous servants' rooms, all neat and well kept. Beyond these is the vast laundry, then the stables containing stalls for many horses, all sleek and shiny, with vehicles of various kinds, the premises extending until halted by the rear street. It may be interesting to know that the number of servants con- THE MEXICANS IK THEIR HOMES. 22/ stantly employed is thirty-five — among them three housekeepers — to say nothing of many extra ones who come in on special occasions. The family to be waited upon by this array of domestics consists of, at most, six members. E.xternally the mansion presents the semi-feudal appearance so often seen here — a mass of solid, gray stone, indicating little of the extent and magnificence of the interior. The love of music permeates all classes, and is cultivated equally by both sexes. Thoroughness is the rule, and memorizing is always required; the most difficult and prolonged recitals being rendered with brilliant execution without the score or a break. When asked to play, the musician complies at once, and if the guest expresses pleasure, will continue playing indefinitely. On marriage the beautiful art is not given up ; on the contrary, is practiced quite as much as before. In some delightful homes I have been agreeably entertained for hours at a time by the choicest musical duets rendered by an elderly man and his wife, the sons and daughters, and even the grandchildren, taking their places alternately at the piano. I heard but little classic music, but the opera is popular and un- derstood by all. In this, public taste is quite critical, Italian opera taking precedence. Opera bouffe is regarded as highly immoral, although the ballet is universally popular, and introduced between the acts of grand opera. English opera is regarded as a compromisei between them. A young Mexican friend of mine quaintly classified Italian opera a.s blaiica (white or pure); English, color dc rosa ; and opera bouffe, iiiuy Colorado (highly colored). An enterprising manager, not a great while since, attempted to present on alternate nights grand opera and opera bouffe. On grand opera nights every seat and bo.x was filled with the wealth and fashion of the capital, while on opera bouffe nights they sang to almost empty houses. If any laxity of morals exists in private life, immoral and corrupting plays are certainly discouraged on the boards. The native airs breathe a passionate sweetness, uniting with the 15 228 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. tender minor tones the high staccato movement and the short, quick rest — a style to be observed both in the voice and instrument. A marked difference may be noted in the melodies of the plains and low country and those of elevated and mountainous regions — the former being soft and pathetic, while the latter breathe the exhila- rating spirit of the hills. The finely attuned national ear for music assists greatly in the acquirement of foreign languages, for which their aptness is remark- able. I have been in families where English, French, and Italian were spoken quite as fluently as the native tongue. In this respect they excel our own country people. Their linguistic culture is practical, while our students generally neither have nor make opportunities for speaking in foreign tongues. Closely connected with music and languages is the poetical faculty, which seems equally inherent. It comes out on any occasion, with surprising readiness, in little tender sentimental effusions, or graceful compliment — tone and gesture having added emphasis in delivery. Diminutives are universally employed, and the cita never sounds so sweetly as when rnurmured by infant lips in inainacita 2i\\d pcipacito (dearest or darling mamma and papa). The names we are accustomed to use in a formal manner sound sweet and pathetic m their simpler adaptation, as heard in Mexican homes. Aunt Julia, in our prosaic idiom, becomes Julita — pronounced Hulita, little Julia — Ua (aunt) being entirely omitted. Everybody is called by the Christian name, regardless of age or position in society. Nothing is more melodious in Mexican homes than the terms tc and tu (thee and thou). The pronoun you, listed {vjniten /'.), is not used in the family, nor with intimate friends, if and tu being ex- pressive of confidence. I have been corrected by heads of families for thoughtlessly addressing some of them asj'<^/^ instead of placing myself in their inner circle, sharing its most sacred privileges. In the endearing expressions, " Tu inc ijuicrcs d mi ? " (" Lovest thou me?"), " Yo, te quiero d ti" ("Yes, I love thee"), the pronouns are repeated for emphasis. THE MEXICANS IN THEIK HOMES. 229 Another way of putting it is, "JA- qiicns tu / " (•' Lovest tliou mc ? '"i, " Si, tc qncro" ("Yes, I love thee"). Still other lo\-ing expressions which are beard in Mexican homes every day are, '' Luz de mis ojos " (" Light of my ej-es "), and " /do/o inio " ('• My idol "). '' Mi corazoncito " (" My heart's treasure "), and " I'ldn inia " (" My life "), all having an added zest by the speaker's tender manner. In the baby language of mothers, nothing is sweeter than these CORKinr)R IN THE FAl.AtlO MOMF. expressions. Intonations vary in different localities. At the capital the rising inflection is generally heard, the voice running on an up- ward sliding scale — the marked rising inflection — as no, Bncnd, with pleasing effect. Great delicacy is always exercised in speaking of ages. In one part of the country, one a little advanced in years, or even quite old, is called vicjito (a little old). In the choice society of the capital this term is considered wanting in good taste; uii poco grandc ox grandicito 230 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. (a little large) is usually employed, but the phrase carries conviction with it. One highly commendable trait is, that Mexicans will not say dis- agreeable things to you, either on their own account, or repeating what others may have said. I have been told that the women are much given to gossip; but if true, I have not heard them, as they are careful never to speak unkindly or slightingly of their countrywomen in the presence of strangers. The possible failings of their own people are carefully held in reserve; and the most critical remark I heard one woman make of another was, that she was " iimy biiena, pcro para piira bticiia no serve" ("very good, but to be purely good, and no more, was of no value"), a nice discrimination between nega- tive and active goodness ! "■ iMny Mexicano" ("Very Mexican") is another phrase used in the same way, referring to something slow, or out of accord with the feelings and sentiments of the speaker. " Muy iiial criado " (" A very bad servant ") expresses great con- tempt. Sometimes, however, it is used humorously, as when a child teases its mother, or a friend insists on the conferring of some little favor at an inconvenient season. In the arts of the toilet the seflorita is full)- up with her Anglo- Saxon sisters ; indeed, it may truthfully be said she is ahead of them. Paint, whitening lotions, and dentrifices are used freely. But no women excel them in the care of the hair, that " glory " of woman, and its wonderful length, its silky, luxuriant softness, amply compen- sate them for their pains. Houses built before the days of modern conveniences are not pro- vided with baths, but comfortable and luxurious public baths — warm and cold — for all classes exist everywhere. It is here the seflorita, at least once a week, uncoils Iut lovely tresses, and washes thoroughly both hair and scalp, then, with towel pinned around her shoulders, and hair flowing in unconfined rip]iles from crown to tip, goes through the stn.-ets to her home with no more concealment than if returning from church. THE MEXICANS IN THEIH HOMES. 23 1 Sefloritas are universally known in plain English as chickens. If very young, \.\\e.y di.xQ pollitas (little chickens). If twenty or more years, the graver and more prophetic term polla (grown or big chicken) is applied. An opportunity was given me of hearing an amusing adaptation of the term ; A number of ladies were arranging to give an entertainment for a charitable purpose. All had stated what they would contribute, save one, who had remained silent throughout. But when a lull came in the conversation, she quietly remarked she would bring \.\\c pollas y pollitas. The merriment spread like contagion, for she had three marriageable daughters. On another occasion, at a fashionable dinner party which 1 at- tended at the capital, Guillermo Prieto was also a guest. The venerable poet sat at the extreme end of the long table beside a blooming seflorita, who was evidently entertaining the old gentle- man to the best of her ability. A charming, middle-aged seflora sat near me, and when the conversation flagged, she turned and said, naively, " Oyc ! oyc (hear! hear)! Guillermo! You like those /i^///- tas much better than the pollas ! " To which he replied, " Xatural- mcntc (naturally), there is nothing prettier or sweeter than a poliita ! " An expression of taste which could not be described as national. But these lovely pollitas never experience the pleasures of our debutantes. From thirteen years of age they may be candidates for matrimony, but such an event crowning their entrance into society as a winter in Washington would be as foreign to their ideas and impressions of real young ladyhood as their Romeo and Juliet love- making from the balcony or barred windows to our >'oung ladies. So they are always out, and yet never out ! Soltcras or donccllonas viejas is the term applied to old maids. While no derogation attaches to this position, yet often much sport is made at the expense of those who may in any way render them- selves odious and disagreeable. ''Miiy fastidiosa" ("very fastidious," or "a little difficult to please") is politely applied; or "Very 232 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. good to dress the saints," meaning, that they are always at church, and, having nothing else to do, dressing saints is a proper occupa- tion for them. Thirty years are allowed a seftorita ere she is launched on that monotonous soltcra journey; and tliey are to be found as often in wealthy as in plainer families. Bachelors are quite common, and they also have their special names. Sometimes solteroncs, at others, solicroncs pcrniciosos (bad or pernicious unmarried men). A Mexican lady said to me, " Life to the solteroius is never bleak nor desolate. They keep up their houses and have everything about them that contributes to their happiness ! " Young marriageable men are called galliiios, older ones, gallos (young and old roosters). And those tireless, idle young men who stand on the streets habitually, watching the senoritas o!i their way to mass or to shop, are called by the appropriate name of lagartijos (lizards), because they are always in the sun. Foreigners are not long in sorting these out from the multitude, as the}' make it a rule to stare one out of countenance. They compare with the idlers of all countries, and are not a whit behind them in deportment and dress — even the eyeglass is not wanting. A natural and, it would seem, national source of pride to the Mexican, is his small and elegantly formed foot, and, not satisfied with its original graces of slender form and arched instep, he com- presses its size by wearing tight-fitting, high-heeled, and pointed-toed shoes. Apropos of this little display of personal vanity, shared by both the sexes, I may repeat what a lady of great culture and refinement told me in plain words, that while her husband was handsome, good, and kind, yet, had he not possessed the most perfect foot she ever saw, never would she have married him ! The women are by no means m.igratory in their habits. Indeed, with few exceptions, they do not travel in their own country. They THE MEXICANS IN THEIR HOMES. 233 have no seaside resorts nor watering-places kept solely for recreation ; the change to a hacienda or to a quiet village being the chief portion of their knowledge and experience in that line. The increased facilities for travel do not offer sufficient induce- ments to them to leave their homes. One charming woman, whose acquaintance I formed at Morelia, said to me that she had never been ten miles beyond More- lia but once in her life. This was a trip to the capital after her marriage. Then she only remained one day, which was spent in weeping so violently, and in entreating her liege lord to take her home again, that he was only too glad to do so without delay. The boarding-house, as it is known to us, is entirel)- un- known in Mexico, so that in cases of financial difficulty or other misfortune, ladies do not assume the care and manage- ment of such establishments. I only know of one instance where a lady, suddenly reduced from affluence to poverty, had recourse to this method of gaining a livelihood. Now and then one may encounter a casa dc Inicspcdcs, where fur- nished rooms are rented, but this is the extent of such busi- ness by women. And it is safe WASHSTAND IN A MEXICAN HOUSE. 234 FACE TO FACE WITH 7 BE MEXICANS. to estimate that scarce!)' one out of ten thousand scfioritas lias ever found herself inside either a hotel or boarding-house. Indeed, so deeply rooted is the feeling against any kind of publi- city in the domestic life, that it is not considered etiquette for a lady, married or single, to visit in hotels. Foreigners are attracted by the tender, kindly manner of the senor- itas, and frequently choose their life partners among them. But, though loyal and devoted wives, as is well known, the fewest instances are on record where they have been successfully transplanted to another soil. They will not quarrel to carry their point, but sooner or later they will and must return to their native land. The women of other countries may fill a wider sphere, but there is no climate nor customs like their own. A parallel is found by transplanting the American woman to Mexico, and the Mexican woman to the United States. The one sighs over her lack of freedom, while with the other, the excess of freedom is an untold burden. No charm or attraction can exist for her beyond the barred window and the circumscribed limits of the promenade, accompanied according to custom, by some female rela- tive or servant. The foreigner who contemplates seeking the hand of a seflorita, should first arrange all business matters in his own country, bid adieu to kindred and friends ; for when the event takes place linking his fate with that of the object of his affections, he must become in word and deed a Mexican, and be one of the family in every relation. One noble trait is exemplified in the life of the Mexican woman who shares her worldly goods with either a foreigner or countryman. He may bring into his house his parents, his aunts, and his cousins, even as remote as the twent)-ninth cousin, and his wife will feel it only her duty and pleasure to be kind and tender, dividing with them her worldly possessions. According to law, a girl is eligible for matrimony at fourteen. She is then as fully developed as an American girl at eighteen. Maturing thus early, marriage takes place, and from twenty-five to thirty-five, the THE MEXICANS /.V THEIR HOMES. :35 piquancy of youth waning, they arrive at a faded and premature age. The dearth of intellectual pursuits and the climate do their part in the metamorphosis. The fine physical development among the women is particularly noticeable at the capital. Their beauty, however, grows upon and impresses one by degrees; their glorious soft eyes, glossy black hair, exquisitely shaped hands and arms and small feet are more admired the longer we observe them. It is a pleasure to chronicle the fact that the government is now thoroughly aroused to the impor- tance of giving educational advantages to the excellent, honest, and kindly dis- posed middle class. Nothing will tend more to make Mexico strong in herself and the sooner place her in the foremost ranks among nations, than the disposition she now man- ifests of being deeply interested in the education of the masses, and especially in that of the women. Industrial and normal schools and colleges are now in successful operation at many central points. In these they receive not only a practical education, but also instruction in the various branches of art b)' highly qualified masters. Treated heretofore more like dolls, or ornamental adjuncts — and in a state of dependence — now, without fear of misconstruction, they may enter such avenues of art and industry as will support them independ- ently. Every latent talent is being fostered and encouraged by the administrators of the law. Poor young girls, as well as boys, are pensioned by either their own State or the federal government, and AN ORCHID. 236 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. only a few years more will witness an upward and onward progress- iveness heretofore unknown. At home, also, their range of accomplishments is extended. Where formerly sefioritas employed themselves in lacework and em- broidery, they now cut, fit, and make their own dresses with taste and skill, copying closely European and American fashions, and taking much pleasure in the selection of the various styles. During my sojourn at the capital, one young seflorita graduated in dentistry. She began at once assisting her father, who was a dentist, in his office, the fact being announced in all the leading daily papers. Happily the class which most needs this aid and encouragement is the one most benefited by it — the excellent, faithful, and hospitable middle class. ' It need not be inferred that husbands interdict their wives from sharing intellectual enjoyments. Yet one — a distinguished man of letters — remarked to me that it was all very well for American women to walk along with the men in science and literature, but it would never do for Mexican women to know any place aside from the home, with its relation to husband and children. If so, they would at once grow unhappy and discontented. A Mexican gentleman, who had lived a great deal in the Utiited States, and appreciated the Americans as a people, freely admitted to me that he had made the " double mistake of marrying two American women." If this remark savored of a lack of gallantry, it bore, how- ever, a general truth, for the races are not, as a rule, suited to each other conjugally. But some of the most majestic old dames it has ever been my fortune to know are among the Mexican women. They step as if descended directly from Montezuma, and the manner in which they uphold the dignity of their homes is something well worth seeing. In neither se.x is the slightest effort made to conceal age. Even young ladies on the shady side of an " uncertain age " do not seem aware that the least derogation attaches to that fact, but with a quiet unconcern state the exact number of their years. THE MEXICAiYS IX TIJEIK HOMES. 237 Having so many servants, the lives of the women arc much easier with regard to household labors than with us. There is no hurry — no necessity for it; but, though custom yields io ndgligd m the mornings, sacques and skirts, loose low shoes, and no corsets, hence no incon- venience as from the more formal toilet of our women, their maladies are quite as numerous. The lack of exercise, and excessive indulgence in rich, highly-spiced peppery food, may account for many ailments. Children sum up, generally, ten, twelve, and sometimes as many as fifteen to eighteen in number, many not reaching maturity. In few instances do the mothers nurse their babes, the wet-nurse being " the power behind the throne." I was agreeably disappointed, however, to see so few instan- ces of personal deformity. Near-sightedness is prevalent all over the country, and is accounted for by the excess of light out- side and its deficiency, with lack of ventilation, in both homes and schools. Mexico is an earthly paradise for children. The little monarchs hold high sway in the affections of the people; and from the moment they see the light it is a long hey-day of enjoyment and child-play. Expressions of the tenderest love are lavished on them without affectation, whether in the street, the house, or the shop, and, regard- less of how man)' may have preceded him, the new baby is hailed with delight, and takes superior rank in the household. No country can produce more marvelously beautiful, brighter, or more precocious children. They are happy by nature, and, though indisposed to quarrel with each other either in the house or street, yet somehow they manage to assert their rights. The childish prattle in the sweet bab)" Spanish is melody itself, coming from these winning and most lovable little creatures. Beauti- ful Alfonso, the baby boy of Senora Calderon — a little more than two years old — came tapping at my door one da\'. Opening it, 1 asked, " What do you want, precious one? " Taking my hand and looking archly in my face, he said, with baby incorrect- 238 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. ness, " Sabo IiigUs " (" I know Englisli "). " Well, then," said I, " speak to me in English." " Gooch," he replied, laughing, shaking his head, and, as I caught him in my arms, pat- ting me on the cheek. My name was the only word he knew, but he had rehearsed it with his nurse until his pro- nunciation was perfect. After this, every visitor was made aware of his proficiency in English, the whole family en- tering into his own enjoyment of his knowledge. No won- der these darlings are so little under control when they are so cunning and interest- ing ! National tastes and char- acteristics are early developed. Among the first is, that noise of any kind — laughing, crying, and walk- ing heavily — is rude and unbecoming. Babies do not creep because always in the arms of the nurse, who does the greater part towards amusing them. They are so tractable that in sitting for a photograph they naturally take a graceful, easy position, upon which even the artist cannot improve. The portrait of Alfonso is an instance of this kind. I took him to the artist, and without either of us touching him, lie assumed the position as pre- sented. Clinging as they do to inbred traits, the universal habits of all children exhibit themselves. If they are not given the drum- sticks of the fowl, I have seen their great luminous orbs gather moisture until tears would overflow in distress at the appropria- 1 KNOW t- ■ THE MEXICANS IX THEIR HOMES. 239 tion by some one else of this important appendage. No child is excluded from the table or asked to wait: even on ceremonious occasions their places are reserved. They are admitted into the full confidence of the family circle, and such interesting events as births, marriages, and deaths are discussed in their presence with the utmost freedom. Boys begin to smoke about ten years oi age, but never do they in- dulge in the presence of their elder.s — not even an older brother. Few games and but fewer outdoor sports have been provided for them ; and until within late years, bicycles or gymnasiums were unknown. But they are grand little horsemen, when fully equipped in the na- tional dress; though sometimes rather grotesque when mounted on a hard-mouthed " billy goat " instead of a horse, accompanied by a train of boys. One rides, another leads, and still another uses the lash. I have seen two boys on one " billy," and this usually obstreperous animal yielded quite kindly to the caprices of the riders. Girls have quite as little diversion, and often I have seen them playing self-invented games, in close imitation of church scenes — with altar, candles, and swinging censers — the boys acting as priests, while the girls, as nuns or plain worshipers, would file into the imaginary church. The home discipline is of the mildest. If a correction be necessary, it comes in the form of an appeal, both parents showing tender leniency. An infraction of the household laws brings no punishment from the mother, and if persuasion and tears will not avail, the culprit goes free. At school the discipline is of the same character. No scolding, no correction or use of the rod is ever permitted. The laws of the country are express and explicit on this point, and even a parent so inclined could not grant this privilege to the teacher. But parents and teachers vie with each other in inculcating all the laws of polite- ness and courtesy. I wish I could tell half I have seen of the graces and courtesies of these children. In the Alameda, with kindly deference, they v\'ill 240 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. always yield to elderl)' and infirm persons their own cozy and shady seats. On entering a sala, where there are few or many guests, these exquisitely polite little gentlemen will go all around shaking hands with every one present. They never break into the conversation, but when addressed will modestly join in it ; then, wishing to retire, will say, " With your kind permis-^ion," and again shaking hands, move gracefully from the company. Girls are no less imbued with the same spirit of courtesy. A Mexican boy never thinks himself too near manhood to pay the compliment to his mother of kissing her hand every time he comes into her presence. But I have sometimes seen evidences of a double motive in this pretty custom. Every one of these lads loves to pa- tronize the dulcc vender, and to do so he must keep in the good graces of his mother. While he stoops to imprint a kiss upon her hand, he whispers in her ear, " Give me a medio, dear mamma, I want some dulces." This appeal is never resisted. Children are entertained by their mothers with an inexhaustible supply of tales and legends. Kings and queens are generally the subjects of these stories, and while their origin is Spanish, much Mexican sentiment is ingeniously interwoven with them. Something more must be said about the dear babies and their clothing. In the Aztec country, baby's wardrobe is an unpretentious affair. The custom prevails of supplying only a very few simple articles. A square yard of flannel and one of muslin, hemmed all around and edged with lace or embroidery, known as paiiale, are wrapped around the infant's body and worn for three months, when little drawers — cahoncillos — are substituted. Dresses are held in reserve, to be worn on special occasions. In wealthy families now, however, European wardrobes for babies are used, yet many still adhere to the original mode. At night the nurse wraps a small rcbo::o tightly about the arms and hands of the little one. She explains that baby will become frightened at his hands and scratch himself with his nails. In some families the rcbozo is kept wrapped around the little one's arms and hands, both by day THE MEXICANS IN THEIR HOMhS. 24! and night, so there is no danger of his taking fright at his own devel- opment. Poor little babes! They do look so uncomfortable, inveigled in the folds of the relentless rciwzo, their bodies straightened out full length, so that neither arms nor legs can toss about if colic or otlur baby malady should overtake them. CHAPTER VIII. FASTS AND FESTIVALS AND SOCIAL FORMS. T is not my purpose in tliis connection to dwell upon the past history or present status of the Church in Mex- ico, except as it is connected with the actual lives of the people. The propriety of blending social events, household customs, and relig- ious ceremonies, as one subject of description, may seem questionable to the uninitiated reader. But when it is understood that the feast-days of the church are holidays for the peo- ple, and that these feast-days are numerous, and without these holi- daj's there would be but little social life, the harmony of these sub- jects will be at once understood. I have been assured by devoted Mexican Catholics, who have re- sided both in the United States and in Europe, that the feast-days in Mexico are, in a large measure, quite different from those observed in other countries, while they are so numerous that to a stranger it seems as if there is one for every day in the year. The bold and uncompromising policy of Cortez left the Mex- icans no alternative but to adopt the Christian religion, which was made acceptable by the soothing influences of the early mis- sionaries. Then, too, the striking ceremonies of the Catholic Church, witli its J-ASrS AND FhSTIVAl.S AND SOCIAL FORMS. 243 grand language in an unknown tongue and its mysterious symbolism, rich vestments of the priests, its lights, incense, and strange, unearthly chants of the tonsured clergy, seemed to harmonize with the singular rites of the pagans, though so different in spirit. The transition from the native ceremonies to the ritual of the Catholic Church was easy to a people who loved outward show and symbolism ; and who were perhaps more attached to form and display and mystical devotion, than to spiritual elevation and humane senti- ments. But these remarks apply onh' to the primitive races who so soon and readily adopted the purer faith taught by tlie Gospel, and abandoned those horrible, sanguinary rites that characterized them as pagans. They have passed through many phases of mysterious and severe misfortunes, but still they present evidences that their ancient tradi- tions have not been wholly lost ; and at the present time dim traces of them are manifested in their religious symbols. Generations have glided by, with the tales of their sorrows, joys, and calamities ; despotisms have held their iron sway ; some of the most magnificent structures — relics of an art superior to our own — have passed away ; another faith is theirs; but one may discern in the rites of catholicity, as practiced to-day in Mexico, a tinge of the Indian worship of the Aztecs. It is said that even recently garlands have been placed by them on the idols in the court-yard of the National Museum, and that also in the remote caves of the mountain regions the ancient deities are still secretly worshiped. This is not strange. We may well imagine some remote wilds, where the old races still exist, with their endless legends and tradi- tions ; where the light of Christianity has never beamed. In these secluded fastnesses still dwell their old men and women, who keep the young in awe of the grim deities their forefathers were wont to worship. The government of New Spain went on under the viceroyalty for nearly three centuries. At last the War of Independence came, and the yoke of foreign usurpation was thrown off. But the influence of 16 244 FACE TO FACE WITH 1 HE MEXICANS. the old Church was thoroughl}- imbedded in the hearts of the people. Mexico was free politically from a foreign power ; but, nurtured in absolutism, the mastery of Church over every legal power was com- plete. The two elements — that of religious domination and of civil liberty — arrayed themselves against each other. The former was allied with the most powerful ecclesiastical body in the world ; the latter, though few in numbers, was of untiring zeal and determination. The wealth of the Church had so accumulated that it owned all the best property in the Republic, both in the city and country. A clerical writer of good authority estimates this wealth to have been 86i haciendas, or country estates, valued at $71,373,000, and 22,649 ^o'^s of city property, consisting of churches and convents, valued at $113,241,530 — a total of 8184,614,800. Other estimates have been made giving an aggregate of the Church wealth at §300,000,000; and, regardless of the correctness of these estimates, this vast wealth was handled by the ecclesiastical body, who were in every instance able business men. The rupture of Church and State, and their complete divorcement, came about by the ponderous weight of the former. It had gone on gathering influence and power, until, like an over-full river, it broke its bounds. The time in human economy had come when this event was a necessity. In 1857, Comonfort issued the edict that eventually laid the Church power, strong as it was. trembling in the balance. But his policy was not completely carried out until the iron hand and fearless nerve of Juarez grasped the whole body politic, in 1867, on the fall of the empire. After which period this vast propert)' was applied to the uses of the state and government. The cathedrals and churches were sold or converted to public uses, and by courtesy only the clergy be- came their occupants. Even the wearing of the clerical dress in the streets was forbidden under penalty of fine and imprisonment. Religious parades, which had before been so imposing and mag- nificent, were suppressed. Both sisters of charity and Jesuits were sent out of the country EL FLOR DE LA NOCHE BUENO CHRISTMAS FLOWER. FASTS AND FESTIVALS AND SOCIAL FORMS. 247 with \.\iQ\x personnel z.ndi property, and even the ringing of the churcii bells was regulated by law. The civil law was upheld in every particular, even in prescribing all those holy sacraments which the Ciuirch has always held as sacredly her own. It registers births, performs the marriage ceremony, and buries the dead. While the Church ceremony is not prohibited when desired, it is legally superfluous, and without the civil law null and void. But with all this curtailment of power, the Church has reached a higher moral plane, and one of greater dignity. It has been purified by fire. It required the blood of a pure Indian to bring to terms this great power. It was unquestionably a bold stroke to have been made by one man, with only at first a few adherents. The government still watches closely the movements of the Church party, which is represented by the cathedral, while the National Palace is the domicile of the liberal party. The soldiers marching to and fro in front of the latter furnish a solemn warning that not even a bell may be rung in those grand towers, if any attempt be made to override the civil authority. It should be, and no doubt is, the earnest desire of every Catholic that the Church in Mexico be placed on the same footing as that in the United States. At present there are many indications pointing to this end. The November feasts, beginning with All Saints' Day, were the first of interest that I witnessed, and the brilliant capital never saw a finer inauguration of these festivities. The rainy season was ended, the atmosphere was bracing, as is always the case at that time of the year, and these happy effects harmonized with the smiling faces of the multitude, as they moved back and forth, bearing in their hands flowers as lovely and delicately tinted as though blushing from the kisses of angels. Strains of delightful music were wafted to my ears upon the ekrly morning air from organ and choir, and the stronger and more martial notes of stringed and brass instruments. Hundreds, even thousands, 248 FACE TO FACE ]VITI{ THE MEXICANS. of women and cliildrcn in their best clothes wended their way to the various churches. Business was suspended, even the school children having a holiday ; though the public schools, fostered by the govern- ment, make no allowance for holidays in their regulations. The Alameda, the great central figure of every outdoor social event, presented a picture that the mind loves to recall. A more en- chanting scene was never opened to the appreciative eye in even the gay and beautiful realms of Fairy Land. In splendor it recalled "The golden prime of good Haroun al Raschid." The great central pavilion was illuminated by iridescent lights, which were rendered more fairy-like and bewitching by numerous moss-draped mirrors, Chinese lanterns, brilliant growing plants, the magnificent fountain with its silvery showers, and the basin with its dainty, bright-colored fishes, streamers and flags with the national ensign, the whole making a gorgeous Oriental picture, vibrating under the modern electric light. The Zapadores, of Exposition fame, assisted by other bands, played alternately on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Sundays, and on special feast- days. At night grand concerts took place, which were enjoyed by the most cultured and elegant society. Occasionally benefits were given for charitable purposes. The play of Don Juan Tenorio, that is known throughout Spaui and Spanish America, comes in among the November celebrations, being placed on the boards on All Souls' Day, and is kept there as long as public taste approves. But to return to the feast. The highest testimonials of remem- brance were on that day given to the beloved dead. Every cemetery was filled to its utmost capacity with mourning relatives and friends. The humblest grave at Dolores (cemetery of the poor) was not for- gotten, and at the French cemetery the scene was most impressive. The clergy celebrated mass with full orchestral accompaniment; lights burned everywhere, while the glorious tropical sunshine was shut out by the towering forest and ornamental shade trees. Pictures of deceased friends and relatives were placed at the head- FASTS AND FESTIVALS AND SOCIAL FOA'MS. 249 stones, while garlands, wreaths, and floral emblems encircled them, almost concealing the tomb ; and as the priest passed from grave to grave, with solemn intonation and pathetic music, there were few dry eyes in that vast concourse. For whether we be in a foreign land or on our own soil, any tribute to the lost ones, even in an unknown tongue, unlooses the pent-up, silent grief of our hearts, and the pangs of to-day are those of long ago. We " weep with those who weep." Our tears are for them, and for ourselves, and for the griefs of human- ity. It is a recognition of the universal brotherhood — that " touch of nature " which " makes the whole work! kin." The most touching mass that I witnessetl that day in the I'rench cemetery was celebrated before a monument that had been erected to the memory of " All the mothers and the fathers who have died in other lands, when separated from their children, who lived in far-off Mexico." The American dead were not forgotten, and the last resting-places of the humble and unfortunate, as well as the wealthy and influential, were over-laid with lovely floral tributes. The Alameda, with its indescribable attractions, continues nightly, throughout the month, to be filled with an elegantly dressed crowd, who revel m this gorgeous and bewildering realm of beauty. The holiday look everywhere is kept up in anticipation of the most uni- versally celebrated of all the feast-days of the country, that of the Virgin de Guadalupe — the patron saint of Mexico — which takes place on the 1 2th of December. She is venerated in all Spanish-America, and the story of her mysterious appearance to Juan Diego is firmly believed by thou- sands of every grade and class. The most ignorant Indian mi\y not know of the President, Congress, or machinery of government, but he is sure to be well informed as to the merits of " Our Lady of Guada- lupe." No doubt the tradition with its fascinating sentiment has been the means of inducing many wandering and scattered tribes of Indians to enlist themselves in the service of the Church. We are told that when the patriot Hidalgo placed the image of >So FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. the Virgin Guadalupe on his banner, the royalists bitterly persecuted those who worshiped at her shrine ; and at once stamped on their own banners the representation of the Spanish Virgin, " N'ncstra Scii- ora de los Reined ios." These two ladies, as representing the different causes, were bitter rivals throughout the War of Independence. I^ut the native blood and determination were the stronger, and when Augustin de Iturbide became Emperor, the Indian Virgin resumed the absolute sovereign- ty which she this day holds. So dear is her name that thousands of children are annuaily christened by it. For days before the inauguration of the festivities in honor of Guadalupe, both the capital and the highways leading to this sacred shrine were alive with people making preparations for the occasion. Platforms to be occupied by bands of music were erected at every prominent street corner, and every garden ■awA plaza showed signs that something un- usual was about to transpire. Indians had tramped a thousand or more miles in order to be present. They had brought with them the various wares and products of their own labor peculiar to their respective sections, and sold them through the streets — among them many articles of rare, beautiful, and .skillful workmanship. In the Zocalo the palm huts and rush-covered booths suggested an affinity between the native Indian and the banks of the Nile, but the novelty and variety of the surroundings precluded prolonged speculation. The bazars, shaded by cypress boughs, were presided over by Indian maidens endowed with great versatility of talent and with an abundant supply of small talk for every customer. Their stock in trade was unique — Nascimientos, representing the birth of Christ, in figures of wax, candy. READY FOR THE FIESTA. AN ORCHID WITH PINK CENTER. FASTS AND FESTIVALS Ai\D SOCIAL FORMS. 25 I and clay being the principal ones, though one may also find many other specimens of curious and ingenious handicraft. Everything and everybod}' took on a holiday look in their new clothes, which none had omitted except the Indians. The azotcas were also enlivened by thousands of people, who enjoyed the brilliant display of pyrotechnics, and every imaginable species of illumina- tion. A party of Americans of which I was one, with a few Mexican friends, went to Guadalupe the night before the grand fiesta was to take place. To adequately describe the scene would require the pen of a Dickens. The poor, the lame, the halt, the blind had been here congregated, as well as the hale and hearty, with t\\e\r petates, vessels of pottery and other things needful for the occasion. While the archi- tectural beauty of the cathedral was displayed, the grotesquely attired multitude was also thrown into relief. Inside the inclosure of the church the stillness of death marked the sleeping multitude. Overcome, perhaps, by the fatigue of the long journey from their homes, hundreds of women and children slept peacefully, undisturbed b\- the gaze of the curious foreigners who stepped over them to enter the portals of the cathedral. It seemed to me that hundreds of poor women, wrapped only in their rcbozos, with occasionalh' a blanket, were asleep, and in their im- movable postures transfixed to mother earth. Now and then one might be seen upon her knees, devoutly offering up the prayers of her faith, while tears stole'gently down the weather-beaten faces of others. Here as everywhere, making himself conspicuous and well known, was the ever-present, insatiable papoose. Within the cathedral, the soft tones of the organ, aided and en- hanced by the youthful voices of the choristers, filled the vast temple with solemn harmony. An indescribable multitude of worshipers had assembled there, among whom Indian women on their knees, with candles in their hands, and children strapped to their backs, moved down the grand old aisles murmuring their "■Ave Marias." 252 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. A contrasting scene was presented as we passed through the great doorway on our way out. Two men — one of them very old, with a pair of green spectacles which looked as if made by a blacksmith — were deeply engaged in singing from a home-manufactured book, as I discovered by peeping over, a rude chant, without rhyme, reason, time, tune, or ending. They sang yN\\.\\ gusto, oblivious of the interest with which we regarded them, and each utterly regardless of what the other was singing. It was the strangest duet that was ever framed — two cracked voices, in utter discord, the singers as serious as pictured saints. The faces of the men, the spectacles, the book, the rattling discord of the duet, seen and heard by the dim light of a tallow dip, flickering in the December wind, formed a woe-begone scene that should be painted by a Hogarth. The chapel on the hill of Tepayac can be reached only by a tire- some tramp up, perhaps, two hundred steps, cut in the side of the mountain, and here we were held in unbroken admiration of the scene below. The valley, bathed in the chastened light of a glorious full moon, lay serenely at our feet and stretched beyond to its mountain limits in the dim distance. The air was sweet, balmy and refreshing, even on that mid-December night. All this was the handiwork of nature in her sublimest moods. But what a contrast when we turned to the little //(r.s'rt in front of the grand cathedral and beheld the multi- tudinous assemblage of human beings on grand parade, in fatigue suits and undress uniforms! True, the mellow moonlight was over them, as over us; but nearer were tiie flare of torches; the flickering of camp-fires, by the lights of wiiich the crowds moved about like characters in pantomime, and with the Babel of voices, the songs of the Indians, the fire-crackers and sky-rockets, suggested to us on the height, instead of a vast religious congregation, rather a demoniacal pandemonium. Now and again the swelling notes of the organ were heard above the din, but these were soon lost in the pealing of bells from the towers as they revolved rapidly in the gay lights of the national colors, until the valley was filled with their deep-toned utter- ances. J^ASTS AND FESTIVALS AND SOCIAL FORMS. 253 We went down the steps and were soon lost in the variegated con- course, but our interest was undinninished. Confronted on every hand by gambling booths, tents, palm huts, and a motley multitude, cook- ing, eating and drinking, to open the way for our exit required the strength of a Hercules. We had glimpses of men and women in the booths who played on harp, guitar, and bandolin, and if their faces A FEW UF THOSE WHO ATTENDED THE FEAST OF GUADALUPE, had been carved from wood or stone, they could not have been more immobile or expressionless. The defects, by night-time, in a picture so realistic, were concealed in a measure by the glamour of moonlight and torchlight, but the longing of unsatisfied human nature urged us to return on Sun- day afternoon to take a more prosaic view of it in the broad, open daylight. It was a cruel and a crucial test. An army of beggars in 254 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. rags, hundreds of children — faces unwashed, hair unkempt — sallied around, gnawing on great chunks of meat, playing in huge basins of soup, scooping up frijoies w'xth /or/iY/rtj, or screaming and fighting with the myriads of dogs. Gambling was in full force ; women were cook- ing in every way known from the time of Adam, selling everything, screaming their prices, and, like the tireless venders they are, seldom failing to secure a purchaser. Some presided in booths, gayly lined with fruits and flowers, and danced, sang, and patronized you, while generously overflowing with pulque. The air was filled with an indis- criminate jangle of most unearthly sounds, from a variety of very earthly instruments, which, with the dust, the odor of meat cooking and the fumes from the crowd added, made us hurry along to the chapel on the hill, where a treat was in store for us. The Indians from the fastnesses of the Sierras, in the far north were to dance in their peculiar costumes. Animated by insatiable curiosity, and anxious to witness the entire ceremonials, I pressed through the crowd of pobrcs to the inner circle. What a scene ! The wildest, most fantastically decked beings that mortal eye ever beheld were in the inner space. The old men, adults, and boys, with their immense panaches of variegated colors that tow- ered to startling height ; their curiously wrought dresses that were strongly marked with the national colors, somewhat resembling the kilt of the Scottish highlanders ; their ornamented moccasins; the women and little girls with their curious masks of coarse gauze, in black and white, crowned with immense wreaths of feathers, of every variety, intermingled with flashing tinsels, with tawdry dresses of many colors, and in fashion not unlike the kilt of the men and boys, made a scene that was grotesque and fantastic beyond description. Then the dance ! They formed circles — the men on the outer circle and the women on the first inner circle — and again other circles of the younger Indians of both sexes, forming one within the other. The everlasting jangle and trum-trum of the ghastly jarana covered with the skin of an armadillo, looking like an exhumed skeleton, with the finery of flaunting ribbons floating around it, its harsh notes min-- /^■ASrS AND FESTIVALS AND SOCIAL FORMS. ^^7 gling with the drowning wail of the wild musician who played as though in a frenzy, were in keeping with the whole scene. The circles, with all their varied colors, danced in opposite directions with a slow, bouncing step that was half a waltz, half minuet, and as they pro- ceeded they grew more excited — more frenzied — the musician seem- ingly more infused with his awful duty, and the dancers stepping higher and higher, the circles wheeling more rapidly, until the ear was overpowered and the eye confused with the endless changes of faces, colors, and sounds. It was the wildest, most mournful dance that mortal could invent; and it seemed as if the souls of the devotees were in the movement. It was a sort of paroxysm of physical devo- tion, and seemed to exhaust its votaries. Having concluded the dance to the honor and glory of Guadalupe, they filed into the church chanting a low, monotonous hymn. I was the first to enter after them, followed closely by m)' friends. When they reached the altar, where a large picture of the Virgin was sus- pended, all dropped down on their knees in regular lines of fours, and began crossing themselves and murmuring their patcr-tiostcrs. Catching the spirit of the occasion, and unwilling to wound their acute religious sensibilities by the close proximity of idle sight-seers, we followed their example and knelt for a few moments. But so ab- sorbed were the devotees, or so natural our movements, that we remained unnoticed among the worshipers. The man who played on ihejarnna (harana) recited prayers, the • others responding. After this they sang a litany, accompanied by low moaning sounds, as if in anguish of spirit, while every eye was fixed steadily upon the patron saint in mute appeal, and tears streamed spontaneously down these bronzed and hard-used faces. After half an hour thus spent upon their knees, they arose, and still accompanied by the strange music from the ghastly instrument, that seemed to have taken on a more unearthly character, moved backward, making a low courtesy at each step, and, as they filed out noiselessly in their strange tongue, sang in chorus : 258 FACE TO FACE IVFIII THE MEXICANS. I. " From Heaven she descended, Triumphant and glorious, To favor us — La Guadalupana. II. " Farewell, Guadalupe ! Queen of the Indians ! Our life is Thine, This kingdom is Tliine. III. " Farewell, Guadalupe ! Queen of the Indians ! We who leave you to-day Know not who may come again." When they withdrew from the church, our party following closely, the dancing was resumed with added fervor. Before I was aware of the fact, my feet were going up and down, out and arounti, in imita- tion of the Indians, and greatly to the amusement of my friends and the spectators, some exclaiming, " Que chiila ! Mira la nina bai- landa ! " (" How pretty! Lool- at the child dancing! ') which broke the spell, recalled me to myself, and joining my party, we went down the hill. But before we had gone down ten of the almost countless steps, one of the most picturesquel}' attired of all the Indians was walking by my side, making a bargain with mc for the sale of his crown and feathers. While the scene I had just witnessed had, at times, an effect to excite merriment, the contrary feeling of sadness and almost rever- ence prevailed. I could not but feel awe in the presence of tiiose dark children of the wild mountains as they performed their mystical devotions and sang the rude barbaric songs that had in their tones the strangeness of another world. They were so earnest, so devout, so loving to the Mother of the shrine, and their grief so deep, when /^.-isrs AND FESTIVALS AND SOCIAL FORMS. 259 they plaintively looked on her image, and bowed in a sorrowing fare- well, that they excited a sympathetic feeling in the coldest heart. I was forcibly reminded of the lines of our great American poet, who so fully appreciated the mystery of Indian character, religion, and tradition : " Ye whose hearts are fresh and simple. Who have faith in God and Nature, Who believe, that in all ages Every human heart is human, That in even savage bosoms There are longings, yearninijs, strivings, For the good they comprehend not, That the feeble hands and lielpless. Groping blindly in the darkness, Touch God's right hand in that darkness. And are lifted up and strengthened." At the sacred shrine of Guadalupe, eight days after the feast has been duly celebrated by the Indians and cominon people, the wealth, beauty, and fashion of the capital wend their way thither to tender their renewed obligations to the patron saint. I was a guest at a sumptuous celebration in honor of the Seilora Dofia Guadalupe Bros, who invited me to participate in the cere- monies and festivities of her dia de santa. At seven o'clock in the morning mass was celebrated in the chapel, with the administration of the Holy Communion, followed by an im- pressive sermon from the young cura of the church of Santa Vera Cruz — Daniel Escobar. A full orchestra dispensed the sweet and solemn strains of Mozart. Many distinguished society people were there, among them the wife and daughters of General Corona. The ladies all wore black dresses with lace mantillas. The numerous lighted tapers were gifts from foundling and orphan institutions, of which the Senora Dofla Guadalupe is a benefactress. All were deeply moved by the solemnity of the services, the more 26o FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. evidently so that their noble hostess and relative was weak and in- firm in health. After mass a light breakfast was served in the grand dining-room consisting of coffee, chocolate, and breads in great variety. The •sumptuous and elaborate dinner took place at three o'clock in the afternoon. The orchestra in the corridor, supplemented by the sing- ing of birds in the aviary, filled up the pauses with sweet sounds. Covers were laid for a hundred guests, the elite of society, among them many of the most distinguished men in Mexico — writers, orators, statesmen — including Altamirano and the venerable Guillermo Prieto. In the evening a brilliant ball was given in the sala grande, and for several days dinners and balls and general rejoicings followed. The gifts received by the Dona Guadalupe were numerous and elegant, and had the additional charm, in most instances, of being useful, hand- wrought articles of every imaginable kind. One chair alone, the gift of Dona Josefina, had required six months to embroider. General T'alacio and wife, the noble Josefina, gave their aunt a fitncion partienlar, in the way of a theatrical performance in tlie house, which was again a brilliant affair. Three short plays were pre- sented, a melodrama, a tragedy, and a comedy. The players were amateurs, friends of the family, and acquitted themselves admirably. I was particularly impressed by the talent displayed by a young comedian, Francisco Cardona, who continually brought down the house with his hits on the times. The feasts of Guadalupe at Morelia were unusually brilliant. Thousands of the faithful attended the matins in the cathedral. The houses were decorated and the pyrotechnica! display was very fine. At sunset, and as soon as the bells chimed, an riHegorical car, repre- senting the apparition of the Virgin of Guadalupe, started through the principal street from the portico of the cathedral toward the San Diego Church, followed by great crowds. Fireworks crossed the sky, giving it the appearance of a dome of fire. In Queretaro these feasts were equally splendid. The city was con- verted into a great garden. Triumphal arches spanned the streets. BITS FROM GUADALUPE. M-RsiTs, FASTS AND FESTIVALS AND SOCIAL FORMS. 263 The capitol was covered with fluttering streamers, banners and bunt- ing of tri-color, stretched from balcony to balcony, from post to post and from roof to roof. At night the illumination was general. Ouere- taro seemed wrapped in a mantle of fire. The towers of its church and the roofs of its highest buildings were crowded with flames of dif- ferent colors that oscillated in the winds. Fireworks were kept up till midnight. A Mexican Christmas is very unlike one in the United States. No merry jingle of sleigh-bells is heard in this sunny land where the rigors of winter are unknown, and the few lofty peaks, where alone snow is ever seen, would hardly tempt the most adventurous tobogganist. As there are no chimneys, Santa Claus is deprived of his legitimate and time-honored entrance into households, so the delightful and immemorial custom of hanging up stockings is unknown to Mexican children. But perhaps they enjoy themselves quite as much after their own fashion as ours do. One circumstance in their favor is the long- continued celebration, which, beginning on the evening of the 17th of December and continuing till New-Year's Day, is one long, delightful jubilee. The celebrations in honor of Guadalupe extend from the 12th un- til the posadas, or nine days' festivities. The last prayers on the lips of the faithful and the last tones from organ and choir in praise of the patron saint, hardly die away ere the Christmas rejoicings begin. The word posada signifies an inn, and the whole observance is a relic bequeathed by the Spaniards. The celebration is limited almost exclusively to the capital and the larger cities, and may be considered more as a social feature than belonging specially to the Church — though really combining the elements of both. It is a reminder of the Nativity, based on the Gospel narrative, but with additions. When Caesar Augustus issued the decree that " all the world should be taxed," the Virgin and Joseph came from Galilee to Judea to enroll their names for taxation. Bethlehem, their city, was so full of people from all parts of the world that they wandered 264 FACE TO FACE \i ITII THE MEXICANS. about for nine days, without finding admittance in either hotel or private house. As nothing better offered, they at last took refuge in a manger, where the Saviour was born. The first act of the posada represents the journey of the Virgin Mary and Joseph from Nazareth to Bethlehem, and the difficulties they experienced in finding shelter. The family and invited guests march in procession through halls and around corridors, holding in their hands lighted tapers and singing solemn litanies. Before the procession, the figures of Mary and Joseph are borne along by ser- vants or young boys. Each door they pass is knocked upon, but no answer or invitation to enter is given, and so the procession con- tinues to move around, singing and knocking, until, at last, a door is opened, when they all enter and mass is said and hymns are sung with all possible solemnity, after which the other interesting features of \\\Q posada are presented, as hereafter related. Sometimes a burro is introduced to represent the faithful animal that carried the holy family in their journeyings. All over the city is heard the litany of \.\\c posadas, sung in a hun- dred homes, as the pilgrimages wind in and out of the rooms and round the improvised shrines. Venetian lights hang in \\\i^ patios, and fireworks blaze skyward in every direction. One of the most interest- ing features is the infantile resort set up in the southern part of the plaza. The Zocalo is a bewitching place ; lights flash through the branches of pine and cypress, and the place is alive with children of the first families of Mexico. The breaking of the pinate is the chief sport of the posada. The pinate is an oval-shaped, earthen jar, handsomely decorated and cov- ered with bright ornaments, tinsel, gay flowers, and flaunting stream- ers of tissue paper. The common people are experts in the manufacture of these curious objects, and when a vender of them is seen peram- bulating the streets, it is worth while stopping to examine his stock in trade. There are turkeys, horses, birds, monkeys — in fact, every beast, bird or fowl of the air that is known. In addition, there are chil- dren almost life-sized, and even brides, with the trained dress, veil and FASTS AND FESTIVALS AND SOCIAL FORMS. 265 orange blossoms. But oh ! the hapless fate of these earthen brides ! They are soon beaten and smashed into atoms by the fun-loving crowd. The holy figures are left in the chapel after the litanies are ended, and then, either in the patio or a room selected for the pur- pose, the fun of breaking the pihate begins. It is suspended from the ceiling, and each person desiring to take part is, in turn, blindfolded. HIS STOrK IN TRADE OF GAY PINATES. Armed with a long pole, he proceeds to strike the swinging pinatc. Often a dozen people are blindfolded before the final crash comes, and the dukes go rattling over the floor. Then such racing and chasing ! The first posada that I attended was impromptu without the pro- cession, litany, or Mary and Joseph ; the pinate was a monkey, and my young Mexican friends insisted I should be the one to break it. Being duly blindfolded, and armed with a long pole, while the crowd 266 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. of Spanish-speaking people looked on, asserting that I could and would not fail in the effort, I set confidently about my task. But no sound came of broken crockery or falling dukes. The rule was, that every one should have three trials. After the third stroke imagine my chagrin, when the handkerchief was removed, to see the monkey above my head, slowly descending, grinning and wriggling his tail. A wild and clamorous burst of laughter went up when I discovered the trick. They insisted that I should have another stroke at his monkeyship ; so, acting on the rule, " If at first you don't succeed," blindfolded and pole in hand, I advanced, and, with one vigorous stroke, shivered it, amid shouts of laughter and rounds of applause. No dukes were ever so sweet to me ! A happy event for me was an invitation from General Palacio's household to attend the posadas in their house, affording me the opportunity of witnessing a distinctively national custom in all its true elegance. Mary and Joseph were represented by two wax figures, placed upon a flower-wreathed, moss-embowered vehicle, made for the purpose, and propelled by an enthusiastic youth. The procession, consisting of the family and invited guests, formed on the corridor, which had been profusely decorated for the occasion. The posada began with the singing of a hymn, in which all participated with due solemnity. We marched around the corridor, with candles in our hands, preceded by the images, knocking at a door each time, but were always refused admittance by some one inside the rooms. At last we knocked at the chapel door, where we sang a petition, as if Mary and Joseph themselves were imploring admittance. Questions from within called forth the natural responses from the wayfarers without, who sang, '■ The night is cold and dark, and the woman who seeks a night's lodgings is the Queen of Heaven, having not where to lay her head." The door at once opened, the weary pair entered, and the proces- sion moved into the chapel singing a ringing anthem, which to me had the spirit of our ever-familiar ''All hail the power." The litar.y FASTS AND FESTIVALS AXD SOCIAL FORMS. 267 and prayers followed, after which we went down stairs to the theater, where the fun and merrymaking began in earnest, leaving Mary and Joseph alone in the chapel. Once seated in the theater, two of the gentlemen guests, dressed in the uniforms of gens-d' amies, presented themselves, bearing silver trays — one loaded with brilliant badges in the national colors, and the other with handsome finger rings, ornamented with settings of various stones. These badges and rings were passed to each guest with the most courtly grace by the pompous, sham gcns-d' amies, who could ill conceal a smile on their sober faces. My ring was of seed-pearls and sapphires. A long chit-chat followed, as we adorned ourselves with badges and compared rings. The ladies were seated in a circle, and the men passed around in groups, or singly, and all being acquainted, the live- liest sallies and repartee were heard on every side, and good humor and mirth to overflowing filled every heart. At length a bell rings, the curtain rises, and an enchanting scene greets our wondering gaze: a vine-embowered stage covered with a wealth of tropical plants and flowers ; mossy grottoes, sparkling fountains and mimic cascades, which seem a part of nature's own handiwork; ornaments of precious metals wrought in most elaborate patterns, gorgeously attired characters ; all under the blaze of the dazzling lights, form a scene which might have been produced by the Genii of Aladdin's Lamp. Two gentlemen in costumes of the time of Louis XIV., richly overlaid with gold and silver embroidery, were discovered. One was dressed in blue coat, with white knee-breeches, while the colors of the other were pink and cream color. Both wore flowing, curled wigs. They stood on opposite sides of a richly carved table, on which was a glittering display of magnificently wrought silver, comprising not only the plate of the Palacio family, but also the service pre- sented by the Emperor of Austria. Two servants dressed as pages in satin suits, wigged and powdered, stood near the cavaliers, and with profound respect presented salvers loaded with fruits and flowers. 268 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. The tableau was broken by the cavaliers and pages passing down from the stage and serving each guest with liqueurs and wines in tiny glasses, and delicious sweets prepared in the household. 'Y\i\?, posada sprang from the fertile brain of the General himself, and all the actors therein were members of the household and invited guests. He proved himself an adroit "stage manager," as few of the participants knew the extent of the varied and humorous programme. Two young ladies of the household, dressed as nuns, then presented us with those curious and grotesque rag dolls — the invention of the natives — almost as large as real babies. We had scarcely recovered from the effects produced on our risi- bles by the dolls, when the gcns-d'arines entered bearing trays. On one, dainty little parcels were arranged, tied up most artistically in bright-colored silk handkerchiefs. The other contained lovely bou- quets and boHtoiuiil-rcs, and cornucopias of what we supposed to be sugar plums, but on our opening them proved to be hair-pins ! The silken bundles enveloped the homely peanut and tojocotcs, the most insipid fruit in Mexico. Thus did our genial host keep us constantly amused and enter- tained with his rapid and ingenious transitions from the grand and gorgeous to the mirth-provoking and ridiculous. One of the elegant courtiers who figured upon the stage, came to me at this moment stating that in the patio there was another posada of a still more interesting nature, and he vfanted me to witness it. We there found assembled a crowd of e.xcited children with the servants of the household, in addition to those who came with the guests, all eagerly enjoying the sport of breaking the pifiatc, which was in the form and about the size of a five-year-old girl. This figure was clothed in a white dress of some diaphanous material decked with tinsel ; long black hair, plaited and tied with ribbon, hung down her back. Suspended by wires she swung in mid-air, calmly unconscious of the severe castigation in store for her. I was politely invited to join in the drubbing, but all my efforts failed to demolish her. When FAS'J S AND FESTIVALS AND SOCJAL FORMS. 269 she finally became dismembered, I was presented with the leijs to take off as souvenirs of the occasion. On our return to the theatre we heard in the distance a peculiar music. As it approached, the unusual sounds v\ere accounted for by the appearance of a band of forlornly dressed Aztecs with their ancient musical instruments, followed by a train of attendants of the same race. In the rear came a hand-wagon laden with boxes of bonbons, fruits and sweets. When this singular band entered the brilliantly illuminated theater, the contrast excited boundless merriment. Our host appeared at the door and was greeted with shouts, when he entered and made a humorous little speech. The Indians continued their ear-splitting strains in stolid impassivity, apparently quite un- conscious of the grandeur of their surroundings. To look on their emotionless and expressionless faces would extract a smile from an Egyptian mummy. At this juncture General Palacio whispered in my ear that very soon he intended to give an entertainment nias scrio (of a more dignified nature), in order tliat I might witness in his own house every form of social life known to the capital. The Vclada Litc- raria^ mentioned in the chapter on Mexican Literature, will give some idea of the elegance of this convivial reunion. The scenes were interspersed with dancing, and now the witching strains of the danza again rose from the orchestra, and away went the gay sefioritas and caballeros, responsive to its intoxicating measures. This ended, again the curtain rose and our eyes were greeted by the representation of statuary by several of the gentlemen guests. Their superb physique, clad in stockinet, posed in the most graceful manner, imitated to perfection the sculptured forms of the Dying Gladiator, Brutus and the Conspirators, and man\' other classic and historical groups. A senorita then entered, dressed in one of the prettiest cos- tumes of the country, called La china Poblana* Nothing could have * Described in chapter on '* The Common People." 270 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. been more striking and brilliant or more becoming to her dark, rich beauty. A briglit crimson skirt, embroidered with white, reached partly to the waist, where it was supplemented by an upper por- tion of green. The bodice was simply a white chemise, exquisitely wrought, leaving neck and arms bare. Around her form was twined in graceful fash- ion a silken rcbozo, combining in its gay stripes the national colors which marked the rest of her costume. Green slippers were on her dainty feet, and white silk stockings showed to where the petticoat began below the knee. She was a harmony in red, white, and green — a patriotic symphony. She held one end of a long pole, while a friend, also in national costume, held the other. Dozens of pretty little baskets decked off with gay ribbons were suspended from the pole. Each guest was given one, nobody suspecting its contents, until alive chicken made its presence known by fluttering in its futile efforts to escape. At that moment General Palacio appeared at the door, when the company greeted him with much applause, singing out, " Long live Riva, Riva Palacio ! " The next scene revealed to us a single carved column, surmounted !))■ .1 richl)' ornate capital. It seemed singular, and we wondered what it meant after the spletidid scenes we had just witnessed. Sud- denly, as by magic, a swarm of mocking-birds emerged through the top of the column, each decorated with ribbons of the national colors, and fluttered through the hall. Little shrieks ic (regret) are made immediately after death, and for nine days those who cannot call send letters or cards of condolence. The national feasts are those of the i6th of September and the 5th of May. Differences of opinion may exist upon every other subject ; but on those days, the former recalling the grito (call) of Hidalgo for Independence, and the latter the victory of the Mexicans over the French at Puebla, all hands and hearts are united in giving them a fitting and enthusiastic welcome. Courtship is something of a serious matter as undertaken under Mexican auspices. The probation may extend from five to ten years, or may even exceed that of Jacob, and at the end of this period the devoted Romeo has perhaps never entered the house — possibly not even spoken to his Juliet. Patience is a virtue all possess; and as time is of no consequence, they content themselves with waiting for something in the future. The lover walks slowly back and forth before her house for hours at a time, days and nights alike. Perhaps it iS 278 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. is from this fact that he assumes the unromantic appellation of haciendo cl oso (playing the bear). He may also play the bear on horseback, and his " ladye faire " knows by intuition when he will pass, and, securely screcTied from pub- lic gaze remains be- hind the curtain on the balcony and merely shows her head or salutes him with her finger-tips. She goes to church or on the plaza, sure that he is not far away, and though they do not speak, a glance or smile each day is worth a life- time. But frequently tiny billets doux find their way to the angel ups t airs , by means of strings, and the family is none the wiser. I remember to have seen one young man "playing the bear" until mydeep- est sympathies were enlisted in his behalf. Day by day he repaired to the same spot, on the corner of the street opposite my window, at No. 6 la Primera de la Providencia. For months the trying business had gone on, until he was reduced to a mere skeleton, and his hollow eyes had that ex- pectant expression which marks the victim of love in Mexico. So LOVR-MAKING FROM THH BALCONY. FASTS AND FESTIVALS AND SOCIAL FORMS. 279 interested was I that I determined to know something of the fair creature to whom the luckless swain was yielding up his mental, moral and physical strength. The father of the girl was so much opposed to the match, the young man being only a medical student, he forbade his going nearer than two squares of the house. Having seen the effect of " playing the bear " on this lover, I was curious to see how the girl sustained the ordeal. Directed by his fixed and steady gaze upon the house, I found her standing on the balcony with only her head visible. Her eyes were fixed on him, and now and then the dainty little hand made motions towards him. After a few months thus spent, the poor fellow disappeared from the corner, which was perhaps the end of their love-making. I was told by several English-speaking Mexicans that the larger proportion of the young men of the country greatly prefer " playing the bear " from the sidewalk, to entering the homes of the sefioritas, even if permitted by custom. I witnessed the opposite of this in the case of a young Mexican girl who had been reared by an American sister-in-law. Lupe was pretty and attractive, and naturally at an early age was the recipient, from the young men who had come within sight of her, of numerous bearish favors; but two of them, Fernando and Julio ; became more deeply enamored than the rest ; but the sister was de- termined there should be no " playing the bear," so she invited the young men to call at the house. I have seen as many as ten or twelve in her parlor in one evening, all animated and interested — each one being only too pleased to take his turn at a few moments' conversation with the sefiorita. But a denouement, quite unexpected, came. One of the young men who had become desperately enamored of the girl, found he had a rival in one of his friends. A dispute arose, some of the boys espous- ing one side and the remainder the other, until bloodshed seemed in- evitable. No case in chancery ever required more skillful diplomacy than this, calling for the good offices of at least half a dozen outside 28o FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. friends to adjust the matter and prevent a catastrophe. The rupture between the boys was never healed, but neither of them won the senorita. So, after all, perhaps it is better that they should have "bear playing" in order to win their wives. I confess that after witnessing these love affairs I was for once, as our latter-day politicians say, " on the fence," and quite as ready to fall on the " bear side " as on that of our less conventional, more modern love- making. A Mexican lady related to me a method of courtship somewhat different. A senorita is sometimes made aware of the interest a young man takes in her, by being continually followed when walking along the street. In the course of time he writes a letter which he leaves with the portcro, and it is always necessary to enlist the interest of these men by the bestowal of a little cash. She pays no attention to his first letters, but after a while she may perhaps notice his ad- vances. He goes to the house each day and finds out her movements from the portcro, governing himself accordingly. At last, accom- panied by a responsible friend, he makes bold to call on the father and asks her hand in marriage. Then the father asks the girl if she is willing to marry the young man. She replies she cannot say until she has met him. When at length he calls, every member of the family, and even the servants, have the privilege of being present. After this, he is the iwvio o^rw/ (accepted lover), but even if the mar- riage be postponed six months or as many years, he is never left alone for a moment with \\\^ fiancee. Once admitted as 7iovio ofiical, it may be imagined that the fervor of his devotion will find vent in many lover-like expressions. As in- dicative of their warm, poetic imagination and passionate Southern nature, I append a few of the most characteristic of these phrases as used by both sexes : Nifia de mi alma ! Child of my soul ! I Me quieres ? Dost Ihou love me ? Te adoro, te idolatro I I adore thee, I idolize thee ! Me muero per ti ! I die for thee ! FASTS AND FESTIVALS AND SOCIAL FOKMS. 281 Eres mi dicha ! Te amo mas que a mi vida ! Eres mi unico pensamieiito ! Me mato por ti ! No te olvides de mi ! Siempre serSs mi ! Tii seras mi solo amor ! No me enganes ! No sabes cuanto te amo ! Oye, hijito, i me quieres de veras ? Que feliz soy a tu lado ! No dejes de escribirme ! I Vienes manana ? Ingrato, Ya lo s<5 todo ! Pero liija, eso no es cierlo ! I No me crees ? Perdoname corazon ! Adios chula, hasta manana ! Sueno contitjo ! Tliou art my happiness ! I love thee more than my life ! Thou art my oidy thouyht ! I kill myself for thee ! Do not forget me ! Tliou wilt always be mine ! Thou wilt be my only love ! Do not deceive me ! i Thou dost not know how much I love I thee ! Say, my boy, dost really love me ! How happy I am by thy side ! Don't fail to write me ! Will you come to-morrow ? Ingrate, I know all ! But daughter, it is not true ! Dost thou not believe me ? Pardon me, heart ! Good-bye, precious, until to-morrow ! I dream of thee ! The seflorita is not intentionally, or by nature, a flirt. She would scorn to inveigle in her meshes the affections of her admirer. But, in addition to her irresistible eyes, there are certain little social and toilet graces which she unconsciously employs in a most expressive manner that never fail to bring him to her feet. The most effectual and indispensable toilet accessory is the fan. Of every size, s ylc, and color, it is often an expensive item in a fashionable lady's outfit. When manipulated by the fair owner — opened wide and waved in graceful challenge, raised to eyes or lips in witching coquetry, or even when peacefully folded in jeweled fingers — its language is varied and expressive. Great care and attention is bestowed upon the panuelo (handker- chief), which plays, too, an important part, second only to that of the fan. For a young man of moderate means, matrimony is a serious undertaking. He not only furnishes the house and home, but the 252 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. bridal outfit as well. But in some of the wealthier families parents furnish the greater part of the latter themselves, restricting the pur- chases of the groom elect to perhaps the bridal dresses, the jewels, and other accessories. An ivory-covered prayer-book is an indispens- able offering from the groom. The bridal tour is one expense from which he is now exempt, but as facilities for travel increase, perhaps in the near future, this item may be added to his already long list of expenditures. I believe the event of matrimony is no less trouble- some than the long and tedious courtship. The war of reform made three marriage ceremonies necessary. Two months before, the young people must register at the cathedral, giving date of birth, in what cit}' or country, vocation, etc., whether widow or widower. After this, the priest registers the same at the civil ofifice, and their inten- tions must be placed on a bulletin board outside the office for twenty days. For five Sundays the priest publishes the bans. After this, accompanied by the notary public, he goes to the house of the bride, where she is asked if she acts of her " own free will and accord," and other necessary questions are put with as much freedom as though the subject were a transfer of real estate. A few days prior to the church wedding, the judge of the court, accompanied by six witnesses, the priest being one, performs the civil marriage. The dress worn on this occasion is presented by the groom. I witnessed a church wedding at " Santa Brigida," and the Mexi- can ceremony is a pretty one. The groom passed many coins through the hand of the bride, indicating that she is to handle and control the household funds. They knelt at the altar with lighted candles in their hands, emblematical of the Christian faith, and a silken scarf was placed around their shoulders, after which a silver cord was put around their necks, and the ceremony was complete. An American who contracts marriage in Mexico, regardless of faith or creed, must have three ceremonies — two in Spanisii, and one more in either English or Spanish. This is the invariable rule e\en when marrying his countrywoman. He must, besides, make public notice of his intention by having it announced on FASTS AND FESTIVALS AXD SOCIAL FOA'JIS. 283 a bulletin board for twenty days. He may evade or escape the latter by the payment of a sum of money — it is said from $60 to $150; but in any event, he must have resided one month in the country. The three ceremonies consist of a contract of marriage — civil marriage, the only one recognized by law since 1858 — and the church service, which is not compulsory with Americans, and may be celebrated in their own homes. The first two must take place before a judge, and four witnesses, at least, including the American Consul. The contract of marriage includes a statement of names, ages, lineage, business, and residence of the parties. The ceremony of the civil marriage — the legal one — is always in Spanish. The length of time required for the completion of one of these marriage arrangements maybe from one or two days to three months, as the parties understand facilitating such matters. But once such a knot is tied, it would be a difficult task to have it loosened by even the expert fingers of a Chicago lawyer. Weddings are not generally widely announced. Intimate friends are invited to the marriage in the church, and afterward participate in the festivities that follow at the house. After the wedded pair are established in their own home, they send cards which read : " Tirso C alder on y Julia Hope tienen el honor de participar a J'd. sit enlace, y se ofrecen a siis ordenas en la casa, miinero 6 a de la priinera Providencia " (" have the honor to inform you of their marriage, and their house as above mentioned is at your service "). In other words, you are considered a friend of the newly-wedded pair, and they will be happy to see you in their house. Cards announcing a birth are thus expressed: " Tzrso C alder on y Seiiora tienen el gusto de participar d Vd. el nacimiento de su liijo, y lo ponon a siis ordenes" which means, in few words, that this gentleman and his wife have the pleasure of announcing the birth of their son, and place him " at your orders." 284 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. Baptism occurs witliin tea or fifteen days after birth, and,- as is customary in the Catholic Church, children bear the name of some saint. Birthdays are not noticed, but the celebration of the dia de santo, or day of the saint for whom the child is named, is the most im- portant event in his life. Cards are sent announcing the baptism thus: Nacio el 6 de Julia de 1SS3 y fae bautizado en la Parroquia de la Santa Veracruz el 18 del niismo mes y aiio sus padres SeS'or Tirso Calderon Y SeJjora Julia Hope dic Cai.dekon. sua PADRINOS Sr.- Lie. Eduakdo Ramirez y Adame Y Srita. Guadalupe Adame. having a seal upon it, either of ten cents in silver or a one dollar gold piece. When ten or fifteen days old the infant is taken in charge by the padrinos (godfather and godmother), and after much elaborate prepa- ration is carried to the church and baptized. These godparents are called coiiiadrc and compadrc by the child's parents, in preference to their legitimate names. The names of children of both sexes are identical, by simply chang- ing the termination of a or o, and often even this is not done. Jose Maria is the same for both, but Pomposa is the feminine for Pom- poso. Within a reasonable time a great dinner follows, at which man)' handsome gifts are displayed for the young innocent. Cards of c.:„i.. ^ Xar ^. J,^^^ THE PATRIOT HIDALGO. 3l8 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. thus adding to their ranks, and in turn placing in captivity tlie lead- ing Spaniards. Ere the morning sun shed his first beams on the streets of Dolores, the bells pealed forth melodiously at so early an hour as to cause sur- prise to all within hearing. Soon the residents of the town and peo- ple from the adjacent /z^rj^/oj were seen gathering around the portals of the church they loved so well. The cnra is there, but not to cele- brate the mass on this Sunday morning; for the work of revolution has already begun. From tiie pulpit he addresses that Indian multi- tude as " My dear children," and urges them to rend asunder the despised yoke of tyranny and to reclaim the property and lands stolen from their ancestors. " To-day we must act ! Will you, as patriots, defend your leligion and }'our rights?" "We will defend them," shouts the crowd. " \'iva imcstra Scfwra dc Guadalupe !" and "Death to the bad government ! Death to the Gachupines! " " Live, then, and follow your cnra who has ever watched over j'our welfare," is the reply of Hidalgo. The cnra of Dolores has addressed his congregation for the last time; and though bravely and resolutely determined to meet the issue without faltering, the thought is a painful one. Heretofore he has warned them to flee from the wrath to come, administered the holy sacrament ami signed them with the cross in baptism ; henceforward, in this new crusade against oppression and usurpation, he is their leader to victor}- or death ! Miguel Hidalgo y Costillo was the second son of his parents, who lived in the province of Guanajuato. From his early youth he was a close student, and when still quite \-oung he had attained considerable proficiency in philosophy, and also in his theological studies in the College of San Nicolas in Valla- dolid. He received his degree of bachelor of theology at the capital, and was appointed successively to the curacy of two wealthy parishes in the diocese of Valladolid. The death of his brother was the means of his appointment as ctira of Dolores, which gave him a salary of about twelve thousand dollars a year. He became a scien- ACrOA'S AND EVENTS IN MEXICAN HISTORY. 319 tist, philosopher, and political economist, and was, besides, a linguist of high order. He invested his means in various ways; grew silk- worms, planted grape-vines, put into successful operation a porcelain factory, and many other industries for the advancement of the people about him. When the sphere of his knowledge is considered, he is found to have possessed an amount of information far in advance of his con- temporaries, while his social and conversational gifts were exception- ally fine. Hidalgo was fifty-eight years old when he raised the grito, but he had been long maturing the plan that finally triumphed over all obstacles. We now return to Dolores, where the disaffected had already swelled into a formidable insurgent force. From thence they pro- ceeded to San Felipe, gathering reinforcements by the way. They next surprised San Miguel, arriving at dark. They were received en- thusiastically by the population, and proceeded without bloodshed to arrest the Spaniards; Allende, who was Hidalgo's chief support, and a brave officer, assuring them that no harm should come to them. A cheer was raised for independence, the colonel taken prisoner, and a thousand royalist troops added to the insurgent army. Here they procured the picture of the Virgin Guadalupe, which was transferred to their banner to lead them to victory. They next advanced on Guanajuato, a city of seventy thousand inhabitants, the capital of the province, and the emporium of the Spanish treasures. Only thirty miles from the starting-point at Dolores, but in this short distance, the gentle zephyr of insurrec- tion had become a perfect hurricane of revolution, and though the arms of the insurgents were so rude and miscellaneous in character, consisting of clubs, stones, machetes, arrows, lances and heavy swords, they did not hesitate to oppose themselves to the trained and armed Spanish garrison, and were victorious through enthusiasm and force of numbers. Here Hidalgo remained for ten days, during which he proclaimed 320 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEX/CAA'S. the independence of Mexico, and had himself elected Captain-Gen- eral of America and Commander-in-chief of the army. The treasure, said to have amounted to five million dollars, provided him with the sinews of war. We next see him at Valladolid, carrying all before him with the same violence and excessive severity as at Guanajuato. About this time he was joined by Morelos, also a priest, and a former pupil at San Nicolas, where Hidalgo had been regent. He had heard of the revolution, and in October hastened to ascertain the truth concerning it from Hidalgo. He traveled a long distance before overtaking him, but when assured that his sole aim was the independence of Mexico, full of patriotism and reverence for his old teacher, Morelos tendered his services, and received a verbal commission to organize an army and arouse interest in the southwest. This was their last meeting. The grand old college of San Nicolas had nurtured them both, and given an impetus to their endowments which would render both fam- ous. After the departure of Morelos, Hidalgo proceeded toward the capital, then under the command of the viceroy Venegas. With his large army of undisciplined Indians he began the march, and reached Monte las Cruces on the 30th of the month, and there encountered the Spanish forces, commanded by Truxillo and Iturbide. Here for the first time the raw recruits of Hidalgo came in contact with can- non. It is said that the Indians, in their frenzy, rushed forward and clapped their straw hats over the muzzles of the guns, hoping to evade the death-dealing missiles. In this engagement, Hidalgo, though victorious, lost heavily. He then went within siglit of the city, but declined to enter, though urged by Allende to do so. The victory of Las Cruces had been so dearly bought that another such would have been certain ruin. Although at this time Hidalgo had cannon captured from the enemy, and his forces were in a more soldierly condition than ever be- fore, nevertheless at the bridge of Calderon he was defeated by Gen- eral Calleja. He then determined to retreat to the north, and with ACTORS AND EVENTS IN MEXICAN HISTORY. \2l his best officers and several thousand men reached Saltillo in January. 1811. Leaving Rayon in command, he concluded to hasten to the United States to purchase military equipments with which to cope successfully with the efficient Spanish troops. He reached the Texas boundary with a large sum of money, when he was betrayed by Elizondo,* a former friend and compatriot, and taken a prisoner to the city of Chihuahua. The triumphs of his brief career were as marvelous as his defeat was signal and irretrievable. Henceforward the floor of his prison cell must be the theater for the closing scenes of his eventful life. No hope of escape could penetrate those low, gray, pitiless walls! Defeat and captivity have transformed him, and he turns once more to his early vocation. The intrepid warrior is again the gentle priest ! The eagle glance which enthused the hearts of his countrymen is once more softened in dove-like gentleness and benediction ! The hand that smote is now raised in supplication as he implores Divine support and guidance. As he paces to and fro, he surveys the bloody path over which he led his victorious army, and while the retrospect discloses ghastly horrors, he pleads, in extenuation, grim necessity; but his un- daunted spirit glows afresh as he recalls his glorious successes. He has opened the path to freedom, and the grito of Dolores will not cease to reverberate over the mountains and plains of Mexico until the work of liberation, begun by him and his compatriots, is completed. In the long trial that followed, even the chains and shackles could not detract from the dignity and patience that characterized him. On the 27th of July Dr. Valentine, as delegated by Bishop Olivares of Durango, pronounced the sentence by which Hidalgo was degraded from the priesthood. On the 29th he was summoned before the eccle- siastical tribunal, clad in clerical garb, and relieved of his fetters for the first time since his incarceration. He was then arrayed in the * The treachery of Elizondo was avenged when in 1S13 he went on an expedition to Texas and was mortally wounded, when in bed, by one of his lieutenants. He died on the bank of the San Marcos River, September, 181 3. 322 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. vestments of his holy office. While on his knees before the representa- tive of the bishop, he listened to the explanation of the causes which led to this painful and humiliating scene. He was then stripped of his sacerdotal garments, and turned over to the civil authorities, after which he was again shackled and taken to his cell. Ere the first streak of dawn, on July 31, 181 1, Hidalgo was sum- moned to prepare for the closing scene. With the utmost serenity he partook of his last breakfast. He then declared his readiness to go with the guards, and assured them of his forgiveness. So heavily ironed that he could scarcely walk, his courage and fortitude did not for an instant fail him. He even remembered and asked for some sweets left under his pillow, and divided them among the soldiers. The sun had not yet risen and orders had been given that his head should not be mutilated, so he calmly placed his hand over his heart, as a guide for their aim. A platoon fired, wounding only his hand ; Hidalgo remained motionless, but continued in prayer. Another vol- ley severed the cords that held him to his seat, and he fell, though still breathing. Life was only extinguished when the soldiers had fired three more volleys near his breast, the veneration in which he was held doubtless interfering with the accuracy of their aim. Heroic to the last, thus died Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla, and the fame of the Washington of Mexico, as he is called, grows brighter with succeeding generations. Allende, Jimenez, Aldama, and Santa Maria had met the deaths of martyrs to the cause of liberty on June 26. The next day Chico and three others were shot, all meeting their death bravely, though forced to kneel like traitors and receive the fire of the musketry in their backs. Those who were priests were first stripped of their sacerdotal robes ; then, after death, each one was dressed in the habit of his order and laid away with becoming respect. The heads of Hidalgo, Allende, Jimenez, and Aldama were placed in the four angles of the public storehouse in Guanajuato. Their bodies, however, were deposited in the chapel of the Franciscans, where they remained until 1823, when Congress ordered them, with ACTORS AND EVENTS IN MEXICAN HISTORY. 323 their heads, to be placed in the cathedral at the capital with all the honors a grateful country could bestow-. JOSE MARIA MORELOS. The death of Hidalgo left the leadership to Morelos, then operat- ing in the southwest, whose superior genius designated him as a fitting successor. Posterity delights in knowing the birthplace of distin- guished men, but on this point authorities differ with regard to Mo- relos. Some claim Valladolid, others Apatanzingan ; but from his having spent a great part of his early youth in and near the former city, it is generally conceded to be the place of his nativity. His youth and early manhood were passed in hardy outdoor occupation, and although he was studious and ambitious, it was not until the age of thirtyrtwo that he entered the college of San Nicolas, where he studied philosophy under Hidalgo, and, in accordance with his incli- nation, prepared for the priest- hood. He became atra of different small towns near by, and his frugal habits enabled him at a later period to pur- chase a plain home in Valla- dolid. At the time of becoming a soldier Morelos was forty-five years old. On receiving his commission from Hidalgo he went to his curacy and there collected twenty-five trustwor- thy men, whom he armed with muskets, and began the march to the southwest. I have looked on much of that barren territory of several hun- ,ose maria m,.relos. 324 FACE 70 FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. dred miles, and wondered how in those perilous times he could have traversed it safely with his little band. At the various towns and hamlets, however, he received reinforcements, and sometimes whole militia companies seceded to him ; but these were undrilled and unarmed. With this crude material and humble beginning Morelos inaugurated a thorough and systematic course of instruction in military tactics; so that in less than two months he had not only a well-drilled force of two thousand men, but had also inspired them with much of his own ardor and patriotism. He believed more in a small force with efficiency than in large numbers without discipline. His army continued to increase, and one victory led to another; he often took b\- surprise Spanish garrisons, imprisoning their leaders, and inducing the troops to unite v/ith him. With this army he contended again and again successfully with the first commanders of the time and the country. Indeed, the tide of events had so favored him that he naturally felt that the great cause of independence \\as assured. This was accentuated when, in the latter part of 1811, he was joined by Mariano Matamoros, another Indian priest, who, from the evident force of his character, would lend valuable aid to the great work. Morelos made him a colonel, and together they waged the war more vigorously than ever. If one considers the previous lives of these men, the genius they displayed must appear the more extraordinary. Their special talent was latent until it burst forth in those brilliant actions which startled the world. The military ability of Morelos elicited encomiums from one of the greatest captains of the age — Wellington; while Matamoros is described by Alaman as the most active and successful leader of the insurrection. The first great event after Matamoros joined Morelos, occurred at Cuantla, where the latter had intrenched himself. Here General Calleja, in command of the royalist forces, being repulsed with heavy loss, determined to besiege the town. For this purpose a second Spanish force was sent out, and the siege was continued for nearly three months without reducinij their defenses or diminishing the ACTORS AND EVENTS IN MEXICAN HISTORY. 325 ardor and resolution of tlie patriots. Famine attacked them, and the\' were driven to the necessity of eating worm-eaten hides; but capitulation meant certain deatli, despite the offers of pardon made by the viceroy. All now seemed favorable for Calleja to capture the whole army, but notwithstanding his military prowess and reputation, with an ample supply of men and munitions of war, the Indian priest completely outwitted him. With masterly strategy Morelos with- drew from the town at night, and had been gone two hours before Calleja knew of his departure. In September, 181 3, Morelos called the first Congress at Chilpan- zingo, the first act of which confirmed his title of Generalissimo, and a month later independence was declared. It is not possible in this brief sketch to chronicle or enumerate his brilliant victories, in many of which he was aided by such chiefs as Matamoros, Galeana, the Bravos, Guadalupe Victoria, and Guerrero, most of whom figured afterward in the history of the country. The city of Valladolid was a desirable point for the head-quarters of either army, being in the center of a wealthy and populous country. Morelos approached its confines, and stretched his infantry in a line in front of the city, while the cavalry occupied the hill of Santa Maria. Here it was that he met with an overwhelming defeat at the hands of Colonel Iturbide, from which he never recovered. Soon after, he lost his chief support by the capture of Matamoros, who was executed on February 3d following, in the public square of Valladolid, now called Morelia in honor of Morelos. From this time Morelos met with a succession of defeats and reverses until November 16, 181 5, when he was taken prisoner, contending with characteristic bravery against an overwhelming force. He was carried to the capital, tried, and de- graded from the ranks of the clergy, the bishop shedding tears during this last ceremony. He was then conveyed to San Cristobal, a village north of the lake, where the closing scene was to be enacted. Having said the last prayer, Morelos himself bandaged his eyes, and was led forth bound, and dragging his shackles. He complied with the order to kneel, murmuring calmly, " Lord, thou knowest if I have 326 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. done well: if ill, I implore thy infinite mercy." " The next moment he fell, shot in the back, passing, through a traitor's death, into the sphere of patriot-martyr and hero immortal." Among the many historic places that I visited, none interested me more than the house of Morelos in Morelia. In the drawing- room I saw a finely executed portrait, placed there by the Junta Patriotica (Patriotic Club) in 1858. In this the expression of the face shows that blending of firmness, energy, frankness, and magnetism, which distinguished him, as well as the humor and gravity of his character, and other evidences of the genius of this re- markable man. In the same room there hangs a frame containing a piece of the silk handkerchief which served to blindfold him before his execution at San Cristobal. At the bottom of the frame I read with pathetic in- terest these lines : " This is the venerated relic, The mournful bandage with which the tyrant Hid tlie gaze of Morelos, When the martyr of the Mexican people Offered to his beloved country His precious life as a sacrifice." In front of the liouse is a commemorative tablet with this in- scription : " Illustrious Morelos ! Immortal hero ! In this mansion which thy presence once honored, the grateful people of Morelia salute you. September 16, 1881." It will be seen tliat in the portrait of Morelos a haiidkcrchicl is wound around the head. This somewhat eccentric habit of his was adopted as a measure of relief from headache, to which he was sub- ject. His frame was inassive and in harmonious development corre- z":sgtf 'A*. U I THE EMPEROR AUGUSTIN DE ITUKBIDE. ACTORS AXD EVENTS TV MEXICAN HISTORY. 329 sponded vvitli his head. He was consistent in everything, and recog- nizing the fact that war was a cruel necessity, he spared neither himself, his friends, nor his enemies. His piety was sincere and unostentatious, and throughout the five years of arduous service in behalf of his country, he did not omit his religious duties. He never went into an engagement without previously confessing himself ; but after his first battle, always delegated to the chaplain the celebration of mass. THE EMPEROR AUGUSTIN DE ITURBIDE. With feelings of more than ordinary interest I now turn to a contemplation of the life of Augustin de Iturbide. A peculiar chain of circumstances has associated his memory intimately with my own experiences and first days spent in Mexico, imparting a flavor of ro- mantic interest to the details that follow. It will be remembered that in exploring the immense old house in which I lived, my curiosity was richly rewarded by the discovery of the dust-covered and cobwebbed portrait of a beautiful woman. The soft eyes beamed on me from the painted canvas and the lips parted as if to speak. For two years it remained a mystery, but at length I ascertained that it was the portrait of Dona Ana, the beautiful wife of the Emperor Iturbide. More than two years passed, and 1 again returned to the land of the Aztecs ; even now scarcely expecting to tread the soil which had nurtured both Iturbide and Dofia Ana. But I had not only the pleasure of visiting at Moreliathe identical houses in which they were born and reared, but also had the happiness of enjoying the acquaintance and friendship of, with one exception, the last living and only descendants of this handsome and distinguished pair. Augustin de Iturbide was fifteen when his father died, and the management of large estates devolved upon him. His parents were of noble birth from Navarre, in old Spain ; but Augustin was a native of Mexico, having been born at Morelia, Sep- tember 27, 1783. He was married, at twenty-two, to the lovely Dofia Ana Maria Huerte, also of a distinguished Spanish family. The same 330 FACE TO FACE WITJI THE MEXICANS. year in which his father died he joined a volunteer militia regiment in Morelia, and in 1805 entered the regular royalist army. His first experience of real military life was at the encampment at Jalapa, and in 1809 he gave material aid in crushing an embryo revolution at Morelia. It is said that Hidalgo so highly appreciated the military talents displayed by Iturbide, that he offered him the position of lieutenant- general before the 'nxst grit at Dolores. He declined this office and afterward, as colonel of the royal army, took part in many brilliant engagements, directed mostly against Morelos, the recognized succes- sor of Hidalgo. The dashing young colonel, full of enthusiasm for the maintenance of established law and order, and the grave, clerical leader, had been nurtured among the same scenes. Mention has been made of the defeat of Morelos by Iturbide at their native city. One of the most memorable events in the War of Independence was this encounter on the hills of Santa Maria, which skirt the city. Iturbide, who was second in command, sallied out with a small party to reconnoiter. Seeing defects in the position of the insurgents, where Matamoros had not taken due precautions in forming his line, he determined to seize the advantage, and with only three hundred and sixty cavalry, he dashed up the hill, accessible only by a steep path, where they were much exposed to cross-fires from the revolutionary army. He gave a loud cheer and rushed for- ward with his gallant band, creating dismay and confusion in the forces of Morelos. Not expecting such an attack, they were panic- stricken, and, it being then after dark, believed that the entire royal- ist forces were upon them. A desperate battle ensued in the dark- ness of the night betweea the insurgents themselves, during which, after his gallant feat, and with captured banners and cannon, Itur- bide retired in safety to the city, where he was received with enthusi- astic demonstrations. He received no promotion for that service, and Calleja said in after years, " Colonel Iturbide deserved more than I thought proper to give him." Soon after this brilliant action he became involved in ACTORS AND EVENTS IN MEXICAN HISTORY. 331 dissensions with the military authorities, in consequence of which he retired to private Hfe. But, smarting under the injustice that had been shown him, he conceived the idea of devoting his talents and services to the liberation of his country. The royalists evidently feared his marked abilities, should he again come upon the scene. A bishop, writing to Calleja, then viceroy, said of Iturbide, '• That young man is full of ambition, and it would not surprise me if, in the course of time, he became the liberator of his country." Later events proved the correctness of the prediction. The seed sown by Hidalgo was nurtured by Morelos, and, in due time, the whole grand scheme was harvested by the strong arm of Iturbide. In the opinion of many writers, Morelia has given birth to the two most brilliant men in Spanish-America — Morelos and Iturbide. For four years the cause of independence languished, though a guerrilla warfare was for a time kept up by Guerrero, Guadalupe Victoria, and others. In 1820 the troubles in Spain urged the Mexi- cans to a renewed effort for independence. Iturbide was again called upon b}' the viceroy, and given the command of the army of the southwest. In the distracted condition of the country, he knew the only safe and practicable plan would be to accept and then carry out his own design of freedom. Having a secret understanding with Guerrero, under pretense of an engagement, he soon afterward coa- lesced with that leader, taking his army with him. Thus it was, after all the struggle and sacrifice of years, independence was achieved by a bloodless victory. Iturbide then formulated " the plan of Iguala," an embodiment of his ideas of government, the first article of which declared the independence of Mexico. It was well received at the time and accepted alike by the leaders and people. Soon after, on his thirty-eighth birthday, he entered the great capital triumphantly, surrounded by his aids, greeted with all the enthusiasm and manifestations of delight which the people were capable of displaying. Keys of gold were handed him with great ceremony on a silver salver. The country showered honors 332 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. upon him, and on the night of May i8, 1822, he was made Emperor. In his address to the people he said, " If, Mexicans, I do not secure the happiness of the country; if at any time I forget my duties, let my sovereignty cease." He was crowned by the bishop, but with his own hands he placed the diadem on the brow of Dofla Ana. An im- perial household was established with imposing splendor, and money was coined in his image. He also instituted the Order of Guadalupe, a return to the days of chivalry, and designed to add to the prestige of the government. But " uneasy lies the head that wears a crown," and Iturbide was no exception to the truth of the apothegm. Only nine months from his coronation, pressure of circumstances and po- litical changes forced him to abdicate. A sentence of exile was pro- nounced against him, and three months later, with his family, he was on his voyage to Italy. To the soldier accustomed to a life of action, exile was intolerable; and possessed of an irresistible desire to return, within a year he made the homeward bound journey which proved fatal. A new and hostile government was in power, and Iturbide had lost his old influence. Not knowing the stern attitude of the government toward him, he landed July 14, 1824, at Soto la Marina, on the gulf coast; and scarcely had he touched his mother soil when he found himself a pris- oner. General Garza, the military commander, unwilling to act on his own responsibility, referred the matter to the State Congress of Ta- maulipas, then in session at Padilla. With much show of respect and seeming confidence the ex-Emperor was conducted thither. He ar- rived late at night, hopeful and unsuspicious, having himself been placed by Garza in command of the escort which accompanied him. The next morning he was informed that he must prepare for death that afternoon. He remonstrated, asserting his innocence of any desire to disturb the existing order of things, and referring in proof of this to the presence of his family on shipboard. On finding the decree inexorable, he said, " Tell General Garza I am ready to die, and only request three days to prepare to leave this world as a Christian." ACTORS AND EVENTS I.V MEXICAN HISTORY. HI But even this was denied him, and on the evening of July 19th, when the shadows began to gather and all nature was sinking to rest, they led him forth to execution. With noble and commanding mien ; with all his beauty and valor and social gifts ; his smooth white brow, encircled with wavy light brown locks, now bared to meet the last decree of fate, the pa- triot stood undaunted, in Roman dignity. In clear tones he ad- dressed these words to the soldiers: "Mexicans, in this last mo- ment of my life I recommend to you the love of your country and the observances of our holy religion. I die for having come to aid you, and depart happy because I die among you. I die with honor, not as a traitor ; that stain will not attach to my children and their descendants. Preserve order and be obedient to your commanders. From the bottom of my heart I forgive all my enemies." The officer came to bind his eyes, to which he objected, but being told that it was a necessary form, he unfalteringly bandaged his ow-n eyes; then being requested to kneel, he did so, and the next instant received the fatal volley which terminated his brilliant and eventful life. His remains were buried in the dilapidated old church at Padilla, where they rested until 1838, when, with somewhat tardy justice and appreciation, an act of Congress was passed by which they were removed to the capi- tal. They now rest in a stately tomb, in the great cathedral, with those of the noblest and best sons of Mexico. Here also lies Mo- relos, his old-time opponent. Cradled in the same city, their final resting-place is beneath the same dome. On a tablet in the front wall of Iturbide's house I read the follow- ing inscription : "On September 27, 17S3, Augustiii de Uurbide, The Liberator of Mexico, Was born in this house. Morelia, September 16, 1881." The i6th of September, being the Mexican 4th of July, was a fit- 334 rACE TO PACE JlTJJl TJIE MEXICANS. ting time fi)r Morelia to remember her two most distinguished sons. The title of Liberator was conferred upon Iturbide in 1853, nearly thirty years after his death, and two years later the anniversary of his death was declared a public holiday. On that day a grand mass is celebrated in the cathedral of Mexico for the repose of his soul. The ex-Emperor left a wife and eight children, but only the two youngest and Doiia Ana accompanied him on his fateful return voy- age, the others being left at school in England. The widow went first to New Orleans, afterward lived in Washington, then in Baltimore, finally taking up her permanent residence at Philadelphia, where in 1 86 1 the once beautiful Dona Ana ended her eventful life, and now rests with several of her children in a vault of St. Mary's Church in that city. The Princess Josefa, the only surviving child of the Emperor, re- sides in the City of Mexico. She remembers the coronation of her father and the pomp of court life which followed during his short reign. It was my pleasure to make her acquaintance, and I found her a woman of rare conversational gifts as well as great personal charm of manner. She is remarkably well preserved, and still shows a vigor- ous and cultivated intellect; is a fine linguist, and possesses a vast amount of historical information. But the one who connects the past with the present is Prince Angel de Iturbide. He attended the Jesuit College at Georgetown, D. C, where as a school-boy he met and loved Alice Green, the lovely daughter of Nathaniel Green, of that city. The wooing was persistent, and finally this charming and accomplished woman became his wife. In the course of time the laws which had banished Dofta Ana and her family relented, and the Iturbides were allowed to return to Mexico. Now comes an old, old story, but one which loses nothing by fa- miliarity. In the checkered fortunes of Mexico, a prince of the house of Habsburg and an Austrian archduke was invited by the conserva- ACTORS AND EVENTS IX MEXICAN HISTORY. 335 tive party to preside over a new empire. Shortly after liis arrival in Mexico he nivited the Princess Josefa to take up her residence in tlie imperial household as a member of the family. She accepted, and was accorded the highest distinction by Maximilian and Carlotta. Feeling the insecurity of his position and hoping to conciliate the discordant element among the Mexican people, Maximilian proposed to adopt the grandson of the Emperor Iturbide — son of Don Angel and Alice Green de Iturbide — and, should his empire succeed, the young Augustin, then three years old, would be heir to the throne. But a condition was made that his parents should leave Mexico without delay. The government then owed them a large sum of pen- sion money, which it was agreed should be paid them in case of com- pliance. The prospect was brilliant, and the parents thought that to some extent the arrangement would bring reparation for the wrongs in flicted on the child's grandfather, and so consented. The beautiful boy, with soft golden curls, gentle blue eyes and sweet baby prattle, became at once the idol of Maximilian and Carlotta. But the mother was bereft of her darling, and the compact was no sooner agreed to than recfretted ; she and her husband were to leave Mexico immedi- ately, and the separation from her only child might be final and last- ing. She reached Pueblo en route to Europe, but the anguish was too great, and she returned to the capital, hoping to regain the custody of her child. Marshal Bazaine received her with kindness, and she then addressed a heart-rending appeal to Maximilian. But under the guise of being taken to the palace she was decoyed from the city and forced to return to Pueblo. In Paris she met Carlotta, then on her ill-fated mission to procure aid for the fast crumbling empire. They had a memorable interview, and soon after, as Madame Iturbide herself told me, Carlotta received the death-blow to her hopes, and even when ordered to Italy by Napoleon, evidences of a tottering reason were manifest. Throughout these trying scenes Madame Iturbide main- tained the dignity befitting a brave and high-bred woman. When Maximilian felt his fate fast overtaking him, he sent 336 FACE TO FACE U'/T/f THE MEXICANS. Augustin to Havana, and at the same time communicated with Madame Iturbide, who joyfully met and received again to her tender heart her idolized boy. He is now a strikingly handsome young man, twenty-three years of age, six feet in height, and possessing wonderful physical strength. He has a finished education, both European and American, and is an accomplished linguist. He is also a lover of scien- tific knowledge, and exceptionally well read in history. Added to these natural and acquired advantages, he has artistic tastes, sketches from nature, and is skilled in music. In 1885 he was awarded the gold medal at the college at Georgetown, D. C, for the best oration de- livered at the closing exercises. The hero of a romantic story, he ap- pears unconscious of the notice he has attracted, and retains his modest demeanor and genial disposition, with the dignity and social graces which render his society delightful to all who come in contact with him. On his handsome country estate he leads a business life, and never seems happier than when there, dressed in his buck- skin suit and silver-decked sombrero, and mingling freel\' among his employees, who adore him. The minutest detail of hacienda life claims his careful attention, showing a happy adaptability to circum- stances. The elegant residence of the Iturbides at the capital stands on the grand Pasco, immediately to the right of the statue of Carlos IV. Both there and at their hacienda of San Miguel Sesma, I have enjoyed their graceful hospitality and unrestricted friendship. On these occasions Madame Iturbide related many interesting incidents and reminiscences of her boy's early life. Among them, to me, one of the most amusing was the manner in which Augustin, when a little more than four years old, spoke his first English. His cousin, Plater Green, a few months older, fell from a tree, when Augustin ran to his parents, crying out : " Plater he up de tree — Plater he down de tree — Plater he no cry — Plater he one very man ! " After this he would speak no more Spanish. Although brought up according to the Mexican custom of dependence on a servant, he early manifested the desire to throw off such bondage and prove his self-reliance. At the ACl'OHS AND EVENTS IN MEXICAN HISTORY. 339 age of fourteen, all alone, with $i,ooo in his pocket, he sailed from Vera Cruz to New York, thence to Liverpool, and from there to Oscott College, near Birmingham, where he presented his letters to the president, and entered himself as a student. His life is still before him, and with his rich natural endowments and intellect- ual culture, his career will doubtless be worthy of his lineage and training. The accompanying portraits furnish an excellent representation of mother and son. Madame de Iturbidc, herself, is one of the most remarkable women of her time. Beautiful in her youth, she is still strikingly handsome in face and figure. Of distinguished presence, queenly in manner and bearing, she impresses one as possessing in reserve the strength of will and purpose which sustained her in so many trying circumstances. All the elements of kindliness, courtesy, and dignity are combined in her, to which is added a personal magnetism which calls forth the warmest regard and devotion from all who enjoy the privilege of her friendship. During the thirty years since she went to Mexico, a bride, she has been a close observer of men and things. She is a living compendium of information on subjects of general interest, and is especially delightful in recounting those historical incidents which have come under her own observation. In every transaction of business Madame Iturbide has proved her- self equal to the occasion ; and in the various lawsuits in which she has been engaged before the Mexican courts, she is said by competent authority to be as well versed in the jurisprudence of the country as the lawyers themselves. She is much attached to her Mexican friends, who warmly reciprocate the feeling, never losing an oppor- tunity of showing their devotion to her. Americans everywhere may take pride in the fact that she is their countrywoman. VINCENTE GUERRERO. My interest in the history of Mexican independence was deep- ened by meeting and associating with many of the descendants 340 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. of the statesmen and patriots who bore a conspicuous part in those thrilling scenes. All who are linked by lineage or ties of consanguin- ity to the heroes of the revolution, preserve sacredly every reminder and relic of their progenitors. Amid such surroundings, my desire for information was stimulated, and the impressions then received remain among the choicest treasures of memory garnered during my sojourn in old Mexico. Vicente Guerrero was one of the leading spirits of the revolution- ary period, and is revered in the history of his country as a man of unyielding patriotism, strict integ- rity, and stanch loyalty to its cause. After the death of More- los, the gerins of independence were kept alive and nurtured hy Guerrero, who operated in the southwest, and was the most con- spicuous figure among the insur- gents when joined by Iturbide. In the conflicts which have been waged on Me.xican soil, guerrilla warfare has always borne a lead- ing' part, the inaccessible mountain fastnesses yielding immunity from danger of pursuit. This was the method pursued by the leaders after the fall of Hidalgo, Morelos, and Matamoras. When at last independence was achieved, Guerrero took an active part in every important movement until his death. He was the third president of the republic, and had served only a short time when he was deposed by Bustamente, then vice-pres- ident. He retired to his country estate, Tierre Colorado, in the vici- nity of Tixtla ; but being informed of a plot against his life, he left there and joined Alvarez, then in revolt against the government which had succeeded that of Guerrero. Fearing his influence, his death was determined on, and when, despite the warnings of Alvarez, he went to VICENTE Cl'ERRERO. ACTORS AND EVENTS IN MEXICAN HISTORY. 34I Acapulco, the opportunity came to carry out the nefarious plot. A Genoese named Picakiga owned a vessel then in the port of Acapulco, called the " Colombo." Knowing the desire of the parties in power to get rid of Guerrero, he made a compact with Minister F'acio to decoy Guerrero on shipboard, and, for the sum of $50,000, to deliver him over to his enemies. This was accomplished by Picaluga inviting Guerrero to breakfast with him on board, and on rising from the table he caused him to be seized and shackled and conveyed to Guatulco, where the trial for his life soon began. A long list of crimes was brought against him, any one of which, to a man of Guerrero's integrity and patriotism, would have been impossible. After this show of justice, he was sen- tenced to be shot, and forced to listen to the reading of his sentence on his knees. On February 14, 1831, he was executed at Cuilapa, which later avenged the wrong by changing its name to Ciudad Guerrero. A strong feature, consequent on the taking off of these heroes, was the quick rebound of public opinion. They were required to receive sentence kneeling, and not infrequently further humili- ated by being shot in the back as traitors; but scarcely were they dead ere another party arose to avenge them ; and in due time the nation issued its decree that their remains should be removed to a more honored spot, and laid away with imposing ceremonies. The historian Alaman, whose work on Mexican independence is perhaps the most important that has been published, was a member of the cabinet under Bustamente when Guerrero was tried and executed. After the downfall of that administration, the whole ignoble pro- ceeding was looked upon as downright murder by the succeeding government, and three members of the late cabinet, Alaman, Espinosa, and Facio, were impeached. But it was thought that the last named was almost wholly respon- sible, as he had entered into the moneyed bargain with the treacher- ous Picaluga. Tlie trial was postponed from time to time, until at length the cause was regarded as a party affair. Alaman was finally acquitted, his suavity and finished education no doubt assisting him in his defense. Facio went to Europe, and never again mingled in 342 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. politics. Picaluga, the Genoese, was sentenced by his government to death, and mulcted in heavy damages ; but as he could not be found, he escaped punishment. Gonzales, who received the hapless Guerrero at Guatulco, died miserably, a slow, torturous death. Many tributes to the public and private virtues of Guerrero may be found in various places ; and his name is perpetuated in that of one of the States of the Republic. It was said of him that " his modesty overshadowed his intelligence to the extent of not allowing him to enjoy the fruits of his services as his talents deserved." Guerrero left a wife and one child, a daughter, who became the wife of Mariano Riva Palacio, afterward one of the most distin- guished lawyers and public men of his time. Their son is General Vicente Riva Palacio, so often mentioned in these chapters. I would like to dwell at length on the Bravos — Leonardo, the father, and Nicolas, the son. They loved their countrj' with exalted patriotism, and devoted their lives to its liberation. Nicolas is spoken of by historians as one of the noblest specimens of manhood that the times produced. They were no less attached to each other than to their country. After the battle of Cuantla, the father was taken prisoner, tried, and condemned to be shot. Venegas, the viceroy, so highly appre- ciated his abilities that he offered Bravo his life if he would induce his brothers and Nicolas to join the royalists. But liberty was his watch- word ; he scorned the offer, and paid the forfeit. A number of Spanish prisoners had been offered in exchange for him, but the viceroy, appreciating the value of a Bravo, had declined in his turn. The grief of Nicolas for his father was deep and lasting; but even under this great sorrow his magnanimity shines forth grandly. He had then in his camp, as prisoners, three hundred Spaniards, many of them wealthy and influential men. His power over them was abso- lute; and had he taken their lives in retaliation for his beloved father's death, perhaps justice and the usages of war would have said, " Well done ! " But hear his noble words to them : " Your lives are forfeit. Your master, Spain's minion, has murdered ACTORS AND EVENTS IN MEXICAN HISTORY. 343 my father ; murdered him in cold blood for choosing Mexico and liberty before Spain and her tyrannies. Some of you are fathers, and may imagine what my father felt in being thrust from the world without one farewell word from his son, — a\' ! and your sons may feel a portion of that anguish of soul which fills my breast, as thoughts arise of my father's wrongs and cruel death. "And what a master is this you serve! For one life, ni}- poor father's, he might have saved you all, and would not. So deadly is his hate, that he would sacrifice three hundred of his friends rather than forego this one sweet morsel of vengeance. Even I, who am no viceroy, have three hundred lives for my father's. But there is yet a nobler revenge than all. Go ! You are free! Go, find your vile master, and henceforth serve him, if you can ! " In gratitude to him for sparing their lives, the soldiers, with tears in their eyes, offered their services in his cause, and were faithful to the last. General Bravo after- ward bore a conspicuous part in the history of his liberated country. He lived to take part in the Ameri- can war, his last military service being at the defense of Chapultepec and Molino del Rey. He died in 1854, at the age of sixty-eight, beloved and admired by all who knew him. Equal in luster are the lives of other leading heroes of independ- ence, whose deeds might shine in the bright galaxy of a Plu- tarch. Guadalupe Victoria was one of these immortal and brave spirits the record of whose career resembles more a fabled romance than a veritable history of real life. When the power of Spain seemed re-established, Victoria retired to the mountains, where he GUADALUPE VICTORIA. 344 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. was hunted like a wild beast by order of the viceroy, at one time a thousand soldiers being employed in the search. A report of his death gave him a respite, and he lived alone in secluded and inacces- sible fastnesses, without seeing a huinan being for two years and a half, until news was brought to him of the revolution of 1821, when he hastened to join Iturbide. He became first president of the re- public, and, although every opportunity for peculation and private gain was afforded him, remained so poor that he was buried at the public expense. GENERAL SANTA ANNA. I congratulated myself upon an opportunity of visiting and be- coming acquainted with the daughter of General Antonio Lopez de Santa Anna, the Seflora Guadalupe de Santa Anna de Castro. I found her an agreeable conversationalist, with pleasing manners and a happy faculty for entertaining. Her son was present, and during my travels in Mexico I have met few young men of more sprightliness and intelligence. He is about twenty-five, has a finely shaped head,' blue eyes and fair complexion, resembling his mother, while his bear- ing is graceful and dignified. He speaks English fluently, having been secretary of the Mexican Legation at Washington. Let me whisper to my young countrywomen that Augustin de Castro is un- married and greatly admires American young ladies. With manifest pride he showed me his gallery of American beauties. Seflora Castro, with a kindly appreciation of my curiosity, dis- played some of the magnificent clothing worn by her father. The coat was gorgeous, with the national ensign embroidered with gold. A blue satin dressing-gown, with cords and tassels of gold, was deco- rated in the same way. Most interesting, hovvever, was his mantle of the Order of Guadalupe which he had re-established. It was of blue satin lined with white moire-antique, and must have swept the floor for at least three yards. There was an imposing life-sized portrait of Santa Anna, on horseback, reviewing the troops on the pasco before Chapultcpec. It was taken in one of the later terms of his presi- de ncj'. ACTORS AND EVENTS JN MEXICAN HJSTOKY. 345 The second wife of General Santa Anna was very youn<^ when married. It is said that she had in her possession a valuable auto- biography of her husband, wliich the family endeavored in vain to procure from her for publication. It is, presumably, a vindication of his career, and now, since the death of Madame Santa Anna, it will likely be obtained. In her sprightly way Seflora Castro related to me particulars of her family, which consists of two daughters and her son Augustin. Knowing it to be customary for mar- ried children to live in the house with parents, I innocently asked if her married daughters lived with her. Quickly she replied that " sons-in-law make poetry about their mothers-in-law when out of their houses; if in them, it was not possible to predict what their utter- ances might be." Their elegant home stands on the first square to the left in going from the Alameda to the Zocalo. The name of Santa Anna is more familiar to Americans, and particularly to Texans, than that of any other Mexican. With it is associated the story of the Alamo, the massacre of Goliad, and the triumph of General Sam Houston at San Jacinto. When only twenty-three years old, Santa Anna entered the arena of politics by disrupting the empire established by Iturbide, and the ca- reer thus begun was consistently carried out. At an early age he had so mastered the arcana of scheming and revolution as to reflect credit on a veteran in the cause, demolishing and creating sovereignties, often grasping victory from defeat, and gathering strength when all seemed GENERAL SANTA ANNA, WHEN PRESIUENT FOR THE THiKD TIME. (From an Oil Portrait.) 346 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. lost. He was five times president, and was the means of deposing, probably, twenty rulers. As a commander of men, his resources and ability were remarkable. After the most disastrous defeat he gen- erally managed to retire from the scene still holding the confidence of his ragged, half-starved army, increasing it materially while on the move. From 1822 to 1855 he was the most conspicuous figure in public life. If deposed, he withdrew to his beautiful hacienda of Manga de Vi^'J' 1., , ."1 i**-,y!''n* *V4.:v MANGA DE CLAVO, THE HACIENDA OF SANTA ANNA. Clavo, near Jalapa. If exiled, he went without remonstrance, con- fident that his lucky star would again lead him to the front, and with fertile brain every ready to plan a revolution or arrange a coitp d'lHat. But it may be truly said that in either case he was punctual to respond whenever his country demanded his services. When the war with the United States came on, Santa Anna had shortly before returned from exile. He at once took command of an army of 20,000 men. He first met with a heavy defeat by General Taylor at Buena Vista, then at Cerro Gordo by General Scott, and when he retreated to defend the capital, defeat still followed him, and ACTORS AND EVENTS IN MEXICAN HISTORY. 34/ Molino del Rey, Chapultepec, and the capital surrendered to General Scott. His last move, in the vain endeavor to retrieve his fortunes, was to besiege Puebla, when he was again defeated, this time by General Lane. After the treaty of Guadalupe-Hidalgo, in 1848, Santa Anna sailed for Jamaica. During this last exile the condition of the country bordered on anarchy, and the need of a strong govern- ment was so irnpe;rative that i« 1853 Santa Anna was recalled. He was enthusiastically received, and appointed president for one year, when a constituent congress should be called. But instead of the latter, he instigated a new revolution, by which he was declared presi- dent for life, with the title — well calculated to provoke a smile — of " Serene Highness." A despotic spirit was soon manifested, and the result was the revolution of Ayutla, led by General Alvarez, one of the heroes of the wars of independence. After this memorable event, a desperate struggle of two years ensued, when Santa Anna abdicated, and left for Havana, August 16, 1855. Afterward, being a man of leisure, he visited Venezuela, where he remained two years. He then retired to the island of St. Thomas, where he lived quietly, orobably meriting his title of "Serene Highness" more than at any other time in his career. He returned in the early part of the French intervention, pledging neutrality ; but having issued a manifesto calculated to cause disturb- ance, was ordered by Marshal Bazaine to leave the country, which he did, retiring again to St. Thomas. After the fall of Maximilian, he returned to Vera Cruz to find himself a prisoner under sentence of death. Though this was not carried out, he was required to leave Mexico forever. From this time until the death of Juarez, in 1872, he resided in the United States. He returned once more to his native land, aged, feeble, and broken in spirit and fortune, and died in the City of Mexico on June 21, 1876, aged eighty-four years. He was buried at the church of Guadalupe, only a few prominent individuals following the funeral coretge. Not the lea.st singular circumstance in the stormy and checkered 348 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. life of this remarkable man is its ending. Having passed through every phase of danger, while so many of his contemporaries fell in battle, or met death on their knees, he bore a charmed life, and, surviving defeat and exile, returned to the scenes of his grandest triumphs, and breathed out his last days on his own soil surrounded by his family. In the accompanying illustrations we see him first as president, covered with the insignia of his successes ; and the later portrait pre- sents him as he looked at the time of his death. The contrast is strik- ing and mournful, telling of failure in a man possessing so many ele- ments of greatness, who might have held the highest place in the hearts of his countrymen long after his physical frame had moldered into dust. The signing of the Federal Chart in 1857 was one of the most import- ant of all the memorable events in Mexican history. Its anniversary is wisely observed as a national holi- day. Of the large number of signers, GEM \NNA. . there remam only twenty-five sur- vivors. Several of these are octogenarians, while others fill places of trust and importance in their country's service. Foremost and best known to us are Seflor Ignacio Mariscal, at present Minister for Foreign Affairs: Seflor Romero Rubio, Secretary of the Interior; General Ochoa ; and the veteran statesman, politician, and soldier, Guillermo Prieto — all of the capital. We now come to consider a few of the leading spirits of the war of reform which began to be prosecuted when Santa Anna stepped aside from the political arena. ACTOXS AND EVENTS IN MEXICAN HISTORY. 349 BENITO JUAREZ. Let us now take a pleasant stroll through the Alameda and along the great highway leading to Tacuba, until we come to the grand old church and T^retty plasuclla of San Fernando, and the Pantheon, bear- ing the same name. The little plaza is shaded by giant trees, fragrant with myriad flowers, carpeted with soft, green turf, and the air ren- dered sweet and delicious by the ripple of the sparkling fountain : a place for day-dreams, so quiet and redolent of the past. But, in pur- suance of our object, we suddenly find ourselves within a broad, grated doorway, and the next moment a polite little old man, clad in do- mestic, comes forward, hat in hand, with a smile, and the question : " What will you have ? " " We wish to see the monument to Juarez ; " whereupon he leads the way, halting as we halt fo read an inscription on this or that tomb or vault, and volubly relating the history of the occupants of this grand old burial-ground. He became so interesting at last, that I found myself desirous to know something of him, this plain, humble, polite old man. Without ceremony I asked : "Tell me something of yourself." "■ Muy bicn, scfiora. You have heard of the battle of Chapultepec, between the Americans and Mexicans?" " Yes ! " I replied ; " but what has that to do with you ? " He shook his head, as he recalled the scenes then enacted, and responded : " I was the bugler on that awful day, and saw our dear old flag go down and the Americans take possession of that place, so sacred to every Mexican." He then went on to relate the tragic and heart-rending incident of the death of the gallant forty-eight students, boys from fourteen to twenty, who had their swords wrested from their hands and died no- bly in defense of their country. We listened to the old man's remi- niscences as we passed the tombs of Zaragoza, Miramon, Mejia, and others ; but welcomed the timely silence which fell on the party as we 350 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. reached the tomb of Mexico's greatest statesman, patriot, and soldier, her Indian president, Benito Juarez. Here he Hes, stretched out in majestic, marble dignity ; so life-like, so realistic, as to cause a sudden thrill of awe in the beholder. It was a touching inspiration of Manuel Islas when he chiseled this sublime effigy, with the mourning figure of La Patria bending over it. Summer and winter this noble tomb is fragrant with floral offerings most gorgeous and beautiful, laid there by his grateful countrymen. In striking contrast with the grandeur of his last resting-place was ,.-,, . the early home of the Champion of ' Reform. I see it now, a simple adobe structure containing two or three rooms, without windows, their earthen floors cleanly swept, and with, perhaps, only one or two doors for the whole building. The roof was of either adobe or planks; if the latter, it was held in place by numerous stones, while climbing and clinging tenderly to the un- sightly walls were tropical vines and plants which, in the profuse luxuri- ance of nature, covered the whole with their blossoms of gorgeous tints, finally disappearing over the housetop, and transforming the humble home into a bower of beauty. The inclosure was composed of the organ-cactus, standing like sentinels warding off all intruders. The village of San Pablo Gueltaco reclines unevenly on a rocky spur of the Sierra Madre in the State of Oaxaca, whose shores are washed by the waters of the Pacific. The liamlet has its narrow, irregular streets, its forest trees, tropical flowers, and luscious fruits, and in the grateful shade stands the neat white church to which the devout, in undisguised simplicity and piety, repair at all hours of the day. BRNITO JUAREZ. ACTORS AMD EVENTS IN MEXICAN IIISIORY. 35 I The Enchanted Lake lies near, reflecting in its translucent depths the tropic growths surrounding it, and suggesting the romantic and shadowy traditions of the past. Two hundred Indian aborigines constitute the entire popu- lation of San Pablo. They live by tilling the soil in the old-time honest way. The parents of Benito Juarez cultivated their few acres and tended their cattle with the rest, in happy equality. Amid these primitive surroundings the champion of Me.xican independence and reform, on March 21, 1806, first saw the light. He never knew a mother's love, she having died at his birth, leaving him to the care of his grandmother and uncle. Here he lived until he was twelve years of age, and was so thoroughly an Indian that not one word of Spanish had ever passed his lips. About this time he attracted the attention of a worthy citizen of Oaxaca, who took him into his service, and recognizing the boy's talents, determined to give him the best possible educational advan- tages. He placed him in the ecclesiastical seminary, with a view to the priesthood, but finding that profession repugnant to his tastes, within a year he threw off the robes and turned to the law. He en- tered the college of Oaxaca, where he pursued his legal studies, teaching at the same time. Here he graduated with honors, and in 1834 was admitted to the bar. During these years he distinguished himself in every branch of study, and his conduct was most exem- plary. He did not long pursue the practice of law, but devoted himself to political affairs. Quite early he began to study the welfare of his country, being deeply imbued with a sense of the importance of a radical change in affairs. The Conservatives imprisoned him for his outspoken utterances, but the effect was to add strength to his vigor- ous thought. In 1842 he became chief justice of the Republic, which ofifice he held for three years. He was made governor of his own State in 1847, and remained so until 1852, on every possible occasion introducing liberal measures and useful reforms. As a determined enemy to des- 35^ FACE TO FACE iVITH THE MEXICANS. potism, he was exiled by Santa Anna, when he took up his residence in New Orleans, where he lived for two years in great poverty. On the revolution of Ayutla, in 1855, from which event dates the law of reform, Juarez returned and joined with Alvarez, who commanded the revolutionary forces against Santa Anna. The success of the revolu- tion made Alvarez president, and Juarez became minister of justice and religion. His first move was a bold one — the abolition of the special clerical and militar\' courts, under which these two classes had enjoyed immunity from the general laws. Congress sanctioned the TOMB OF JUAREZ, IN SAN FERNANDO. whole, but a change of administration followed, when the new presi- dent, Comonfort, fearing the progressive liberalism of Juarez, ap- pointed him governor of his own State. The promulgation of the Federal Chart in 1857 made a decisive change in the political outlook. In this year Juarez was elevated to the office of justice of the supreme court— a position equivalent to that of vice-president of the United States. In 1858 he be- came president, but the strength of the reactionary party was such as to cause him to transfer the government from one point to ACTOA'S AND EVENTS IN MEXICAN HISTORY. 353 another until he reached Vera Cruz. A strong defense was his rec- ognition as president by the United States in 1859; but it was not until 1861 that he was enabled to establish his government at the capital, having defeated Miramon, who was at the head of the church party. The next year he was confirmed as president, and at once set about reorganizing the whole body politic. The suppression of re- ligious orders, the confiscation of church property, and the suspension of the payments of foreign debts and national liabilities were the most prominent acts of his administration. Mention has been made in another chapter of the wholesome effect of his vigorous measures, and the great work still goes on. Juarez seemed to have been born to redress the wrongs of the times, and events so shaped themselves in his stormy career as to develop the wonderful firmness and strength of his nature. After the issuance of his decree suspending the payment of national indebtedness, France, England, and Spain united to invade the country. The allied forces reached Vera Cruz ; but Juarez having pledged himself that the interests of creditors should be protected, all withdrew except France. Under pretense of protecting its citizens, but really with a view to establishing a monarchy in which the interests of the church would be paramount, the French government sent an army of invasion, April, 1862, under General Forey, whose first movement was the capture of Puebla. Juarez, finding the capital insecure, retired to San Luis Potosi. In 1864, protected by French bayonets, Maximilian ascended his un- certain throne, while the government of the people, represented by Juarez, moved from one point to another until it finally rested at Paso del Norte. •While here. President Juarez was frequently invited to cross the river, and visit the American ofificers at Fort Bliss ; but he always declined, fearing that such an act might be construed into an aban- donment of his own beloved soil. In June, 1866, he began his southward march. Over much of the same ground which he had traveled a fugitive, he now led his victori- ous army. In February, 1867, Marshal Bazaine, with his army, sailed 354 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS, for France, leaving Maximilian behind in a hostile country. The latter was entreated to leave, but his fate withheld him. Juarez soon had possession of Queretaro, where Maximilian had concentrated his few remaining soldiers. The story of the execution of Miramon, Mejia, and Maximilian, on June 19, 1867, needs no repeti- tion. For some time public opinion, especially outside the republic, censured the execution of these distinguished men ; but in counting the cost of their venture, they must have anticipated death in case of failure. The memory of Juarez is undimmed by the shadow of aught that would detract from his glory. Had he never done another act save that of divorcing Church and State, his name should remain for- ever embalmed in the hearts of his people. Although every opportunity to acquire wealth was afforded him in the various positions he held, the truth comes down to us that he died a poor man. His family relations were of the happiest nature, and in the society of wife and children he enjoyed relaxation from the cares of state and public affairs. He was re-elected president in 1871, and, after so much storm and contest, he might have hoped to live out his days in undisturbed calm ; but though physically strong, his nervous system gave way at last. He died on July ig, 1872, aged sixty-six years, revered and honored by his contemporaries and a shining example for future gen- erations. The recumbent marble figure in San Fernando is but a faint tribute to his worth. Among the many pleasant people of historic association whose acquaintance I made at Morelia, was the polite and accomplished son of Melchor Ocampo, who was a prominent figure in the early reform movement, and whose name is familiar to many of our own country- men of that period. The young man gave us the life of his father, from which I have made a few touching extracts. The enthusiastic compiler, Eduardo Ruiz, properly dedicates the work to the students of San Nicolas, because, as he says, " the last thought of Ocampo, before his execution, was of the students, whom he called his sons." One of the choicest spirits of the time, and associated with Juarez ACTORS AND EVENTS IN MEXICAN HISTORY. 355 in the reform agitation, was Don Mexiior Ocampo, Governor of Mich- oacan. He had also been a cabinet minister under Alvarez, in 1855- 56. Alike in his brilliant and studious youth, and in the dignity of his mature manhood, he devoted himself to the cause of emancipat- ing his country from military depotism and from the tyranny of those retrograde ideas which had so long retarded her progress. He was a poet and a scholar, as well as a patriot, philanthropist, and statesman, and his pen and sword were alike consecrated to the service of his country. Like many of his contemporaries and fellow-workers in the field of reform, he did not live to enjoy the fruits of his labors ; but who will therefore say his life was incomplete, or not fully rounded out? His tragic death exemplified all the manly virtues of his life, and it is fitting to relate how grandly and calmly this Mexican hero died. He had retired to his country place near Pomoca, where he sought a quiet interval from the cares of state, solaced by friendship and sur- rounded by his trees and flowers. In the early morning of a day in May, 1861, a company of reaction- ary soldiers, with their captain, approached the house. They entered and arrested a gentleman whom they saw there, Don Entimio Lopez, under the belief that he was Ocampo. The soldiers were about to re- tire with their prisoner when Ocampo appeared on the scene. He had been in an inner room, and had just discovered the presence of the soldiers, and his friend's arrest. He approached the captain, ask- ing, tranquilly: " For whom are you looking? " " Ocampo," was the reply. "Well, I am Ocampo : release this gentleman ; he is my guest." Without giving him time to get even his hat, they marched off with him to TepejideJ Rio, where, on being presented to General Marquez, the cause of the proceeding was clear and the issue certain. This general had given orders that any one taken prisoner who had labored in the cause of reform, should be instantly shot. 3S6 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. Ocampo proved his heroism in the trying hour of death. He slept calmly the night before his execution. The next morning, June 3, 1861, he was notified that his hour had come. Standing beneath the shade of a grand old tree, he leaned against its trunk; then asking for pen, ink, and paper, he wrote in a firm hand an addition to his last will and testament in behalf of his family, remembering also some orphan children, and adding a clause bequeathing his library to the Colegio de San Nicolas. Then placing his hands upon the tree, he raised his head as if in prayer, when the discharge of firearms added another to the long list of martyrs to the cause of liberty in Mexico. In appreciation of his character and services, his native State has added his name, and is now known as Michoacan de Ocampo. His remains were taken to the capital, and, after lying in state in the na- tional palace, were laid to rest in San Fernando, in the glorious com- panionship of his co-laborer in reform, Juarez. Mexico has her hundreds of noble and heroic sons, many of whom have reached their three-score and ten years. They have served her in victory and defeat, and through her darkest hours have never swerved in their patriotic allegiance. Some of them now occupy ex- alted positions in diplomatic relations >vith foreign countries. Among those who have grown gray in her service are Seflor Navarro, for a quarter of a century Mexican consul at New York. He was a strong adherent of Juarez, and is a native of Morelia. Another is Seflor J. Escobar, the venerable consul at El Paso, Texas, who has faced danger in all its forms, braved defeat time and again, but never lost his love of country. On one occasion at Chihuahua, during the French intervention, he was imprisoned and made to sweep the streets with the common prisoners of the town, for attempting, with others, to celebrate the i6th of September in honor of Hidalgo. The ladies and children turned out en masse and strewed flowers along his way as he performed his humiliating task. He has filled various responsible public offices, having been Secretary of Legation at Washington 1861-2-3, and was also sent to England during the war between the States as a confidential agent of his government. ACTOA'S AND EVt.NTS IN MEXICAN HISTOICY. 35/ The pages of histor}- have not recorded a more stirring event than the war between the United States and Mexico. Benjamin Franklin wisely said, "There never was a bad peace nor a good war," and taking up these sentiments after the lapse of a cen- tury, Hubert Howe Bancroft says: * " If the injustice of all war was never before established, it was made clear by the contest between the two republics of North America. The saddest lesson to learn by citi- zens of the United States is, that the war they waged against their neighbor is a signal example of the employment of might against right, or force, to compel the sur- render by Mexico of a portion of her territory and, therefore, a blot on her national honor." "The United States," he continues, " had an opportunity of displa)'ing mag- nanimity to a weaker neighbor, aiding her in the experiment of developing republican institutions, instead of playing the part of bully." In a severely caustic spirit he continues : " The United States could have secured peace by ceasing to assail the Mexicans, who were fighting only in self-defense ; but the much desired peace they resolved so to secure by war that a bargain, which was nothing better than a bare- faced robbery, should be secured. It was not magnanimity but policy which prompted Polk and his fellows to pay Mexico about twenty million dollars when she was at the conqueror's mercy. It gave among the nations, howsoever Almighty God regarded it, some shadow of right to stolen property. * * * The total strength of the army GOMEZ FARIAS, THE FIRST MAN TO RECOMMEND THE TAXATION OF CHL'KCH PROPERTY. 23 * History of Mexico, 1824 to 1861, page 544. .•?58 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. employed by the United States in Mexico from April, 1846, to April, 1848, consisted of 54,243 infantry, 15,781 cavalry, 1,789 ar- tillery, and 25,189 recruits; making a total of 96,995 men. The total number called out by the government exceeded 100,000 men. The number that actually served in Mexico exceeded 80,000 men, not all called out at the same time, but in successive periods. At the close of the war, according to the adjutant general's report, there were actually 40,000 in the field. * * * The so-called im- provements of warfare, in the opinion of men, justify the continu- ance of warfare on the ground that the destruction of life and the infliction of suffering have been undiminished by the new devices. God save the mark ! Killing men is not a trade susceptible of im- provement ; the experiences of the Mexican war show that neither side dispensed with the horrors of ancient practices. '• The gain in territory by the United States was immense, com- prising a surface of 650,000 square miles. From the mines alone it is computed that precious metals have been extracted to the extent of §3,500,000,000. Besides this, we must remember the vast wealth of Texas, California, Colorado, New Mexico, Nevada, Arizona, and Utah. ■' The loss in money to Mexico will never be ascertained. * * * And yet, unhappy as the results were for it, one must acknowledge that its honor was maintained. The treaty represents, indeed, its great misfortune, but does not involve perpetually ignominious stipu- lations, such as many another nation has submitted to at the will of the conqueror." A bitter dose is this that Mr. Bancroft has prepared to go down to posterity as the history of that war. But in accepting his faithful research, and reluctantly admitting the truthfulness of his assertions, a part of the public, at least, will attribute his severe criticisms of President Polk to a wide difference of political opinion. It is not the writer's intention to cast any reflections upon Presi- dent Polk or his administration, or to arouse bitter feeling in the sur- vivors of that struggle. No one more upholds the braver}' and ACTORS AND EVENTS I\ MEXICAN HIS'IORY. 359 integrity of her countrymen. The war seemed to have been one of the exigencies of the times and our neighbors fit subjects for spolia- tion. But did not Mr. Bancroft present his honest convictions, lie would repudiate that boasted freedom of speech of which every American citizen is proud. It is well, however, to have both sides of the question, and if this historian appears too severe to the average American mind, we have the writings of a sweet and gentle woman, which frankly take up the wrong-doings of her countrymen after the conquest of California. Let every American read for himself Helen Hunt Jackson's pathetic story of Rainona, and deplore the wrongs that were heaped upon the Teme- cula Indians, as well as other native races, who lived in California at and after the time of the conquest. How her generous nature revolted at the injustice of her own countrymen; and ere she closed her eyes in their last sleep, she presented her views in so eloquent a manner as to produce a deep and powerful impression throughout this great nation. Her Century of Dishonor likewise unfolds a pitiable story of the course of our government towards the Mexican Indians. Her last words ever penned were the outpourings of her spirit in the form of a prayer to President Cleveland in behalf of the Indians. May it be good seed sown in good ground which shall come forth and produce abundantly in future generations! Another thought is here suggested, which has already taken form in the minds of many eminent writers, such as David A. Wells, Joa- quin Miller, Solomon Buckley Griffin, and numberless others, equally well known. Tiie proposition is, that every banner, cannon, or other trophy captured during that unhappy contest be returned to Mexico. It would be but a just though tardy reparation of a great wrong. If the matter were placed before Mrs. Cleveland, ami the power given her to do as she in the goodness of her gentle heart and purity of purpose thought best, we are sure of one thing this Queen of 360 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. Hearts would undoubtedly say: "Give them every one back; I want to see fitting justice done to these people." For the benefit of those who have not looked into tlie causes of the Mexican war, especially for the younger generation who may not have had access to standard works on the subject, I will state that the bone of contention was the boundary line between Texas and Mex- ico, when the former was about to relinquish her claims as a republic and seek admission into the United States. The strip of country in- volved in the controversy was that l>'ing between the Nueces River and the Rio Grande, about 300 miles long and with an average width of 7S miles, equal altogether to 22,500 square miles. The Mexicans claimed the Nueces as the boundary, while the Americans claimed the Rio Grande. Several of the most distinguished men of Mexico have married American women. Among them is Sefior Mariscal, who at Washing- ton, in 1866, married Miss Clara Smith, a brilliant American beauty. They have four lovely daughters, and live in great elegance at the Mexican capital. Senor Mariscal has been secretary of the Mexican Legation in Washington ; twice minister to the Lhiited States ; once minister to England ; twice minister of justice ; twice minister of foreign affairs, and justice of the supreme court. At present he fills the ofifice of Minister for Foreign Affairs. Senor Mariscal enjoys the unbounded esteem and confidence of all who know him, and in public affairs no man is considered more upright and honorable. His superior intelligence and intimate acquaintance with the affairs and history of other countries and peoples have enabled him to render that assist- ance to his own country that perhaps no other could give; while his conversational powers and social accomplishments make him a leading figure in society. He is a native of Oaxaca. General Ramon Corona, one of the bravest and most faithful of Mexico's sons, was minister to Spain for eleven years, having returned home in March, 1885. He is a man of distinguished appearance, a true type of the gallant soldier, with a splendid physique, noble head, fine, open expression, and the polishetl manner and gentle courtesy ^. .^--'^Jc^a^^-*^^*^^**-^ ACTORS AND EVENTS IN MEXICAN HISTORY. 3^3 which belong to his race. He began Hfe as a soldier more than thirty years ago, during twenty of which he was in active service, and [)ar- ticipated in more than fifty battles. Since his return from Spain he has resumed his command in the army. In 1867 he was married to Mary Ann M'Entee, a Californian, but then residing at Mazatlan. They have an interesting family of seven children, among them a grown son and two charming daughters. Mrs. Corona, herself, is an exceedingly handsome woman, and is much beloved for her kindness and benevolence. Their home, one of the most delightful and elegant that I visited, stands at the western ex- tremity of the beautiful and historic Alameda. General Corona is now governor of Jalisco, his native State, of which Guadalajara is the capital. Senor Matias Romero, now and for many years Mexican minister to the United States, married Miss Lulu Allen, of New York, but at the time of her marriage, I believe, resided with her parents at Wash- ington. They have no children. Seflor Romero is a statesman of liberal and progressive ideas, and worthily represents his country. The marriage of Bertha, daughter of General E. O. C. Ord, of the United" States army, to General Treviflo, of the Mexican army, is still fresh in the public mind. She died at Fortress Monroe in 1883, leavine one son, Geronimo, known as " the International Baby." President Diaz was sponsor at the baptism, which occurred in Mon- terey, Mexico. General Treviflo is a fearless and intrepid soldier who has served his country in the council and on the field, and always with zeal and fidelity. Seflor Augustin Arriaga, son of General Arriaga, one of the lead- ing spirits of the Reform war, and who wrote the Constitution of 1S57, married a charming American lady from Troy, New York. Including Madame Iturbide, who, as before mentioned, married Angel Iturbide, there are six prominent men of to-day in Mexico whose wives are Americans. 364 FACE TO FACE WITH THE .}/ EX SCANS. In looking over her political career, we see that since 1821 Mexico has had above fifty rulers, the majority of whom have been generals or in some way connected with the army ; while the church, with its 'chief functionaries, has pla}'ed an important part. This was a nat- ural condition, in view of the instability of all governmental relations, and these military rulers have been generally men of ability, although but few were permitted to hold the reins of power to the end of their respective terms. Congress is held in the Theatre Iturbide. It would be difficult to find a more dignified and distinguished body of men. In their debates and arguments they maintain a polished, courtly manner, while their language is classic, fluent, and eloquent. There is no lounging, nor lolling, nor placing of feet in rectangular positions, but each one deports himself in a becoming and graceful manner. In this body there are above two hundred members, ranging from young men of twenty-five years to venerable, gray-haired states- men. The Senate is a still more august body, being in great measure composed of men with a lifelong experience in public affairs. There are about sixty members, and their sessions are held in the National Palace. It was truly gratifying to see the galleries filled with men from the humbler walks of life, who, from their- intense interest and atten- tion, were evidently digesting every word that v/as spoken by these silver-tongued orators. General Porfirio .Diaz, for the second time president of the re- public, is a native of Oaxaca, and received his education at one of the leading institutions of that State. Without special military in- struction, but following an evident inclination, at an early age he joined the army as sub-lieutenant. He was always on the liberal side, and took part in the revolution of Ayutla. As a colonel he fought bravely against the French, and was captured by them, but made his escape from his prison in Puebla. For victories over the French and imperial armies, he was successively promoted to brigadier and gen- 7yO /u^y^r-£^^^ ACTOKS AND EVENTS IN MEXICAN HISTORY. 367 eral of division, and finally became the most conspicuous mililar)' leader in the war of the intervention and empire. When Escob'ido captured Queretaro and Maximilian, Diaz was besieging Mexico at the head of an army of sixty-five thousand mc:n, and soon after the fall of Queretaro he took the capital, thus re-establishing the republic. As a rival of Juarez, General Diaz in 1871 aspired to the presi- dency, and after the death of the former he probably would have succeeded to the executive power but for an article in the constitu- tion which required that the office devolve on the chief-justice, then Sebastian Lerdo, one of the most scholarly men of the country. Be- fore the expiration of the term to which Lerdo was elected, Diaz had inaugurated a revolution, and Lerdo was forced to retire, taking up his residence in New York. But the first genuine peace that Mexico knew was when Porfirio D az became president on the 5th of May, 1877. He had fought bravely and suffered much ; had been the hero of many desperate adventures and hairbreadth escapes, and had fully earned all the honors his country saw fit to confer upon him. He rescued her from a state of continuous revolution, and by his strong arm and steady nerve guided the battered ship into a haven of quiet. All went well for a period of four years ; peace reigned, th.e tariff was revised and the finances improved, while those gigantic railway en- terprises were projected which have since then opened up the country to the admiration and interest of the world. At the expiration of his term — no man being allowed under the constitution to hold the office of president for two consecutive terms — the reins of government were placed by General Diaz in the hands of his friend and companion-in-arms, General Manuel Gonzales. The wonderful natural resources of the country had recuperated and rallied under the fostering care of Piesident Diaz, and hopes were high that, in this era of peace and prosperity, the troubles of the country were at an end. But brave .soldier as Gonzales had proved himself to be, he was unequal to the demands of the occasion. The history of his administration is well known. 368 FACE TO FACE IV I Til THE MEXICANS. The stormy debate in Congress on the subject of the English debt^ immediately preceding his retirement, will never be forgotten ; when Salvator Diaz y Miron — only twenty-six )'ears old — turned the tide of politics in the' National Assembly, and aroused the people to a sense of the wrong and injustice to which they were called to submit. The students from the various colleges who had never before taken a part in politics, gatliered into the Theatre Iturbide, and, hearing his burning words of eloquence, were enthused with the same spirit and patriotic zeal. This inaugurated a new departure in the politics of the country, and henceforth the brave and gallant youths of the Mexican republic were to become a power in the land, and eventually prove her lasting regeneration and redemption. On the first da)' of December, 1884, at eight o'clock in the morn- ing, with severe republican simplicity, General Diaz was again in- stalled- as chief executive. The treasury was empty, the national credit at its lowest ebb, and the whole country groaning under the burden of her difficulties. But President Diaz was fully equal to the requirements of the situation, and, with the full confidence of the people, he again set himself to the task of repairing the injured ship of state, and setting her afloat in smooth waters. Although beset by so many obstacles, he has proved his supe- • rior judgment and intelligence, and his thorough knowledge of the wants of his countr}-. In this second administration she has progressed slowly, but steadily, in all that constitutes a nation's prosperity. Public education has received a stimulus before un- known, the arts and sciences are nurtured, business enterprises en- couraged, and peace reigns within the borders of the republic. Knowing the importance of cultivating international good-will, the President is doing all in his power to encourage American enterprise and to insure the safety of life and property. General Diaz is a man of the highest appreciation of those who have in any way served him during his many perilous adventures. One of the most thrilling of these occurred after the disastrous battle of Incamole, in the State of Tamaulipas, in 1877, when the forces ACVOA'S Ai\D EVENTS EV MEXICAN HISTORY. 369 of General Diaz were utterly routed, and he was flcciny before the enemy. He made his way throuHE little that survives of primi- ' an literature comes from a period of \^ barbarism, which, though clothed in external and mate- rial splendor, was destitute of intellectual culture and moral enlightenment. It is hard to believe that the noble and poetic verses of Net- zahualcoyotl, the most noted of early jMexican writers, had their birth and growth in the rhidst of such an environment. This fact, however, but serves to emphasize another fact which the modern writers of Mexico so brilliantly sustain, which is, that the literary and poetic faculty is inherent in the Mexican race. And from those early days down to the present time wc see the unusual triple combination of soldier, statesman, and writer. This statement re- ceives its verification by a glance downward from the fifteenth cen- tury, when Netzahualcoyotl was the poet-chief of Texcoco, through a long list of warrior-authors to the brave and accomplished Guillermo Prieto, who has nobl)' served his country by both sword and pen. The twelve I'ranciscan friars sent over after the conquest by the General of the Order, were men of jirofound learning, and may be A GLA.VCE AT MEXICAN LirERATURE. 375 called the pioneers of Mexican literature. They attempted and accomplished one of the most stupendous undertakings ever con- ceived by the most enthusiastic philanthropist. They had not only to learn the language of the Indians to whom they came to preach, but to master, also, a great variety of dialects. This done, they formed of these vocabularies and grammars, leaving an invaluable heritage to their successors in this field of labor. By their patience and devotion they humanized a savage peo[)le aiul christianized a pagan nation. Cortez compelled the natives to yield to him by force of arms, but his work was but the beginning of their subjugation ; the friars com- pleted the conquest by the milder but more potent agency of religion. It has been related of one of these good brothers, Toribio Bena- vente, that coming one day to the town of Tlaxcala, and being un- able to preach to the people because of his ignorance of their language, he pointed titiful and virtuous lady that united with yours her destiny. What more would you desire ? Nothing more, since you are happy. And humanity, also, owes you much. You have defended its sacred statutes in those unfortunates whose defense you liave made so many times with brilliant effect." At these reunions the versatiHty of talent of Mexican writers is remarkable. One of them delivers a eulogy in prose upon some prominent person. The cnthusiastn runs so high, knowing the genius of the speaker, that he is called upoti, amid stortns of applause, to transpose the speech into poetry, which is done upon the spot, with- out a moment's preparation. In the theatrical entertainments, each one takes a part, and they often play to crowded houses of friends. Among her women writers, Mexico may well be proud of such poets as Esther Tapia de Castellanos, Seflora Castro, Isabel Pricto de Landazuri, Laura Klinehaus, Refugio V. de Ortiz, and of such prose writers as Seftora Flaquer, all of whose productions are an honor to their sex. Seflora Castro writes under the name of Mariposa Indiana (Indian Butterfly). She is of pure Indian origin, which fact is suggested in her nom dc plume. On the eve of my departure from the capital, I was made the recipient of the following graceful little poem, written in memory of our meeting. Of course it loses inuch in the translation, but the sweet sentiments remain intact. The poem was accotnpanied A GLAACE AT MEXICAX LITERATURE. 393 by pressed pansics (" for thought "), an invariable custom with the Mexicans ; also a note, which I append as characteristic of the people as well as of the writer's own inflividuality : Senorita : Please accept this little poem as a slight appreciation of tlie very pleasant alternoon we passed together in Tacubaya, in which you won my regard and affection by the love you seem to bear my country and its people. Pray receive the sincere regard of one who will never forj^et you. IS. S. J/., A. IsiDR.A. DE Jesus Castro. Adios to Fanny ! ' One afternoon in April I winged my way to see A friend in Tacubaya. Judge of my agreeable surprise Upon finding there two beauteous nymphs — Two flowers of America's soil — And as I was ever an enthusiastic admirer uf beauty, I saluted them with pleasure. Later on, as the sun was sinking to rest. Gently touching and tingeing with its golden radiance The soft fleecy clouds. One of the nymphs, as she bade us farewell. Said she was about returning to her native land. Then methought it were well To give the lovely peri a token. And sent to her this flower, called heart's-ease. This floral offering expresses all T fain would tell her. Nymph of gentle presence, when far away. Think of Mexico, and return some day. And when on the wings of the breeze Thou sendest a message to us. Always remember the sublime beauties Of my idolized country. 394 FACE TO FACE II I Til THE MEXICANS. Atlios ! thou cherished nymph ! Adios ! oh ! lovely fairy Forgive me if I importune thee ; But to-day, when thou homeward goest, Receive the fond farewell of ' La Mariposa Indiana.' CHAPTER XII. MORE AEOUT THE COMMON PEOPLE. The Silent Aztec Child of the Sun. HE silence of dead ceiiiu- ries That lie entoml)ed on yonder hills Is his. These dream- ful poppy seas Wave on ; and all their languor fills The land ; he lisis, as if he heard God speak ihrouyh some still gorgeous bird. His babes about ; tlie golden morn Strides godlike down the lofty hill : His wife and daughter grinding corn- Two women grinding at a mill." Oh, mystery ! This sun of old Was god ! was god ! and ample gold. His golden hills had flocks of snow, His valley fields had fat increase. He saw his white sails fill and blow By restful isles of flower seas. The wood-dove sang his ceaseless loves- His harshest notes this soft wood dove's. 396 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. The Spaniard holds his lands ! Upon His fields, his flocks, his hold is tight ! But, oh, this glorious golden dawn, The golden doors that close at night. His gold-hued babes, her russet breast Are his ! The world may have the rest. Mexico City, April. JoAQUlN MiLLER. It was my good fortune to meet Mr. Miller at the Mexican capital and hear him recite the above poem before it had taken form on paper. Being in deep sympathy with the subject of this chapter, he kindly presented me with an autograph copy to insert in my book. Its tender pathos and quaint versification cannot fail to be admired, and are worthy the genius and wide fame of this gifted " Poet of the Sierras." Whether seen beneath the brilliant white sunshine of a cloudless day on his native plains, or under the mellow effulgence of the peer- less Queen of Night in the valley, consecrated by the shrines of his forefathers, the " Silent Aztec Child of the Sun " presents a picture unique in the history of the world. He is the primitive man, un- moved by the march of civilization around him, but in every lineament and movement, reflects the griefs and struggles of past centuries. He lives surrounded by the traces of those mysterious races which preceded him. All speak of the mutations of the world — tlie subjugation of mighty powers — and he has accepted the inevitable with a sad and unresisting stoicism. He is ever picturesque. In his mountain home engaged in pastoral pursuits, in holiday attire on his patron saint's day, or in rags under the electric lights of a great city, the traditions of the past hang over him, investing him with the interest attaching to the pathetic last man. To-day men and women ma}- be found with accredited documents proving their descent from Montezuma and the princes of Tezcuco, but owing to inertia their claims are unasserted. The conquest and Spanish domination wrought a metamorphosis MORE ABOUT THE COMMON PEOPLE. 399 in the life and character of these Indians. Vast estates were once theirs. Their flocks and herds roamed at large upon the plains of their fathers. The blue sk)', the shining lakes, the forests and mountains belonged to these children of the sun. To-day they arc in dire poverty ; the lands once tilled by their vassals they now till for others. They are the patient burden-bearers of this once grand Indian Empire. If their yoke is not easy, nor their burden light, we hear no complaint. If we compare them with our North American Indians, we are struck with the contrast presented. At one fell blow the Aztecs were conquered, their spirit of independence crushed out. We have con- tended with our Indians for more than two hundred years. They have scalped and murdered the white man and burned his home, bnt as yet we have not been able to grapple the subject. He retreats, we follow, and so long as he is not completely sub- dued, so long will he continue to pursue his own barbarous course. He feels the time coming when the white man will possess his all — when not a foot of land, and perhaps but a mere remnant of his traditions, will be left to him. While he can, he will carry his revenge in his own hand. He wants nothing — cares for nothing — if he has not his hunting-uround. He has no local habitation and no handicraft to amuse and divert him from the thought that each day provides for itself; and he must keep his arrows sharp, his flint and steel in readiness, to meet the pale faces that pursue him. The Mexican Indian leads a peaceful life and remains on the same soil, even though it be his no longer. He is satisfied, feeling the worst is past and perhaps a better day in store for him. .Shut up in his hut of adobe or palm, without either light or air, the chase and the camp have no charms for him. It troubles him little that he belongs to a conquered race. The independence of Mexico has not yet accomplished much for these people, yet they are content. Would that the great question of our own Indians might be settled, and that they could regulate their lives in as useful and peaceful a manner as their dusky-hued brethren in the land of the Montezumas ! 400 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. Tlie Mexican Indian is by inherent custom an a<^riculturist, and notwithstanding the fact that the conqueror imposed upon him burden- some and distasteful labors — among them that of mining — he at the first opportunity returned to his favorite vocation, to which he still adheres at the present day. He is an uncompromising antagonist to any change of locality, and clings to the place of his nativit)- with un- wavering fidelity. There is but little mirchfulness or merriment in his com- position. An intense be- liever in the supernatural, it cannot be better illus- trated than by the fact of Montezuma, in spite of all his splendid resources, yielding with so little re- sistance to Cortez' small band of four hundred and fifty men; for he must have felt convinced that the Spanish conqueror was the one designated by prophe- cy and tradition to possess the land. "According to what you declare," said he, "of the place whence you came, which is toward the rising sun, and of the great Lord w ho is your King, we must believe that he is our natural Lord." Without being inventive, they are great imitators and marvelously ingenious in the construction of the infinite variet}' of curiosities of the country. Straw, wax, wood, marble, grass, hair and mother earth arc ail successfully treated by these dexterous brown fingers. True to the BEFORE HER HUMBLE COTTAGE HOME. MORE ABOUT THE COMMON PEOPLE. 4°! life are these imitations, even the tiniest wax figures not more than an inch in length, representing venders of vegetables, fruits, or other commodity. But to me the most wonderful are the productions of the Guadalajara Indians in clay and glazed pottery. Of the latter, their pitchers, vases, water-jugs, animals and toys of all sorts are beau- tiful, while in the former an extraordinar)' artistic conception is evinced. In an incredibly short space of time they will model for you a life-like bust, either from the life or from a photograph. The strength of expression and fidelity to the subject are remarkable. T\\e\r plujnaje (feather-work) is delicate and artistic. Cortez and his men were much interested in the cloth woven of feathers, so intricate, multicolored and beautiful. They no longer manufacture feather cloth, but expend their skill in this line in the representation on cards of all kinds of animals, birds and landscapes. On feast-days these ingenious people have their stalls on the Zocalo, with their street agents, and business is animated. Each one of these days finds still another variety of toys, and some of them are indeed laughable. For the 1st of November they have cross-bones and skulls, funeral processions ua/avcras in wood), and death's-heads in imitation bronze, with glaring eyeballs and grinning teeth. All these are ar- ranged on a miniature table, with a small bottle lor pulque, and on one corner a cake or piece of bread of the kind the dead may be supposed to like. Their rag figures and dolls are a comical invention. They make baskets with taste and ingenuity, from the size of a thimble to one or more 3'ards in height. They e.xcel in frescoing. They manipulate tissue-paper into decorative forms, and in numberless ways display aptness and imitative skill. In brief, these productions of their natural ingenuity would require, in other countries, years of patient toil and study, if they could even then be reproduced. But I have been told that any attempt to edu- cate them in their peculiar branches of art would be the means of losing their entire knowledge. This wonderful skill is purely the result of an artistic tendency — a faculty handed down from his ancestors. 402 FACE JO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. But. as may be seen in other avenues of business in this land of rest and romance, they work on insignificant articles for days or weeks, seemingly to the exclusion of all t;lse, and then dispose of them for a mere trifle. The Indian voice is soft and low, almost flute-like in its sweetness, in this quality contrasting with the shrill tones frequently heard in the higher ranks of society. Their step is light, even cat-like, in its softness — a characteristic of all classes, regardless of station. On dias dc santo and other feast-days, outdoor gambling of every description is indulged in by this class, while bull- fights and pidqiic-di.x\\-\V\\-\o con- stitute their principal pleas- ures. The love for spectacular display is also a predominating char- acteristic with them. It is shown in the pleasure taken in sky- rockets and all pyrotechnics, especially if accompanied by a band of music. Their taste also finds expression in the universal love of flowers. Not only are the humblest homes embellished with such gay and gor- geous flowers as would constitute the choicest treasures of a northern hot-house, but in the streets and markets, edibles and other commodi- ties are exposed for sale side by side with them, and for a tlaco or medio one may buy a lovely bouquet. They are also great admirers of pictures, and groups may be seen any day in the principal cities, gazing intently on those exhibited A CHICKEN \ENDER. MOJ^E ABOUT THh. COMMOX PEOPLE. A^l in the windows. But I have caught glances, pathetic to the last degree, as they peered through windows where shoes and stockings were exposed for sale. The laboring class rise early and work late, rarely going home be- fore the close of the day. Their wives bring them their dinner, and the whole family sit down to the bread of contentment upon a curb-stone. The large number of unoccupied and non-producing among the common people may to some. extent be accounted for b)' the bounty of nature and the cheapness and great variety of food-products. It is little wonder that they have no ambition to rise higher in the social scale, when the luxuries of life, without the least adulteration, may be obtained for a mere song. The idle, indigent and thriftless have equal advantages in the food they eat, with tiie toiling and industrious. The atolc of all kinds, the barbecued meats, soups, beans and rice, together with the great variety and cheapness of fruits and vege- tables, render their dietary one to be envied. From six to twelve cents will purchase a substantial and well-cooked meal, and it is an interesting event in one's experience to see the motley assemblage in the market place, and to hear their gay sallies at the mid-day meal ; so that in many respects they have decided advantages, so far as relates to food, over even people of affluence in some parts of the United States. The climate, also, brings its blessings to the poor. They may sleep in a house, if it can be afforded ; if not, their lodging may be in the streets, the recesses of the churches, or any place that Morpheus may overtake them. Clothing may be domestic or muslin, with a blanket or rcbozo, and no special inconvenience is experienced. But, however poverty-stricken and wretched their condition, the women are always expert and canny with the needle. A woman with scarcely a change of raiment will embroider, crochet, and do plain and fancy sewing that would put to the blush our most dexterous needlewomen. She sits on the side- walk from morn till eve, selling a basket of fruits, but not a moment does she lose from her stitching. 404 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. One fact worthy of being chronicled is, that the common people are making a considerable effort toward advancement in learning to read and write, even while employed as servants in families. I saw several at the capital who, unaided, were studying Spanish one day and Eng- lish the next. Mexico has a population of about 10,000,000, of which one and a half are pure white — Americans, Germans, French, English and Span- iards — and two and a half mestizos— leaving about 6,000,000 of Indians. It has been estimated that there are five hundred different dialects in the country. The Indians have, in the main, retained their own race and tribal characteristics. Spanish is the language of many of them, but numerous tribes arc to be found who speak pureh' in their own tongue, and cling to their own traditions, dress, and. to some extent, their own peculiar forms of religious worship, seldom intermarrying with others. In the sixteenth century, according to Mexico a travcrs dc los Siglos the types were classified as follows, and, barring the natural increase of population, they remain about the same to-day: Children of Spaniards born in the country are called Creoles. Spaniards and Indians " Mestizos. " Mestizos " Spaniards " Castii^'^os. " Castigos " Spaniards " Espanoles. " Spaniards " Negros " Mulattos. " Mulattos " Spaniards " Moriscos. " iVegros " Indians " Zainhos. Occasionally race cliaracteristics, after lying dormant for perhaps generations, crop out unexpectedly in families, causing quite a shock when they appear. A dark, or as is sometimes the case, black child makes its appearance, and this is called Saila atrds (a leap over several generations). The mestizos are the handsomest, and the sambos must rest con- MORE ABOUT THE COMMON PEOPLE. 405 tent with occupying the position of the ugliest and most unattractive of the races. As to the real merits of this classification, it is not possible for me to speak. I only know how the various shades and complexions im- pressed me as a subject for study. The dark, olive-tinted types seized upon my fancy from the date of my advent into the country. I felt a deep and sympathetic interest in them, as being the more directly con- nected with the aborigines. In their quiet and humble manner I read the history of a conquered people. In these dark shades there exist at least two different types. The pale though dark, swarthy, bloodless face, with melancholy, expressionless eyes and dejected bearing, in- dicates the one, while the other, the type above all others pleasing and interesting to me, possesses a rich brown skin, with carmine cheeks and lips ; glistening, white teeth, united with great, wondering, half-startled, luminous eyes, soft and shy as those of the gazelle. Even their forms and gait are different, the one thin and shambling, the other, plump, full-blooded, graceful and active. Their politeness -and humility, even among the most ragged and degraded, are touching. This is not confined to their bearing toward superiors, but is also shown to each other. The salute of the poorest to his bronze-colored compatriot as they pass, makes the air musical with their liquid Indian idiom. Their code of etiquette is expansive enough to cover that practiced in the grand- est homes in our American cities. In this respect the wealthiest haccndado has no advantage over the humblest peon who toils for him a natural life-time. They are strictly careful never to omit the Don and Dona to each other, and "where you have your house," and " muy a S7i disposicion" — terms synonymous with the higher classes — are in no way modified by the lower. Even their children are taught to say, on being asked their names, su criado de V. (your humble servant). The talent for music is even more striking than that of the cult- ured higher classes. It is no unusual thing to hear every part of an air carried through in perfect harmony by full, rich, native voices, 26 406 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. entirely ignorant of the first principles of the art which they so suc- cessfully practice. The government is now doing a great work by granting pensions to all meritorious persons in the cultivation of any talent. I saw in the Conservatory of Music, in the capital, two Indian girls who had walked from Ouer^taro, a distance of one hundred and fifty miles, to present themselves as pupils in that admirable institution. I heard them sing selections from Italian opera, and the sweetness, strength, and range of their voices were far beyond the average, and produced a profound impression upon the audience. The brass bands, with which travelers' ears are regaled everywhere in the country, are composed of this part of the population. It is no uncommon thing to see bands composed entirely of young boys, from twelve to eighteen years, who render the music in such a manner that a master from the Old World would find but little to criticise and much to commend. Their music is of a sad, melancholy kind, even that danced or sung at their fandangoes. La Paloma is a universal favorite, and as they sing it, often their bodies and faces look as if it were an appeal to the Virgin or some of the saints, rather than an air for enlivenment or amusement. In this way the sentiment and deep-toned pathos in their natures find expression. The large class of useless, lazy, indigent, ragged, and wretched objects in the streets of a Mexican cit>' impresses the stranger that there is no good among them. But there is a large and industrious population possessing kindly and gentle impulses, the women prac- ticing, as far as possible, the tender charities of the cultured higher classes. Even the, Icpcro, the representative of the very lowest and most degraded of the male element, assumes the extremes of two condi- tions. On the one hand, he has no compunctions of conscience in appropriating the property of another, nor does his moral nature shrink, perhaps, from plunging the deadly dagger into the back of his unsuspecting victim, w hile other vicious and ignoble traits are imputed MOKE ABOUT THE COMMON PEOPLE. 407 to him ; but, on the other hand, he has a heart and much of the sen- timental and romantic instinct which invests him with many of the attractions of the bandit. The most beautiful and distinctive female type of tlie common people is the China (Chena), familiarly known as the China poblana. With many added attractions she may be considered the counterpart of the French grisette. But the China has a rich and luxurious tropi- cal order of beauty that is especiall}' her own, with hands, arms, and feet that could not be excelled for artistic elegance by Praxiteles. She has the warmth of nature and faithful devotion which charac- THE ARTIST S REVENGE. terize all Mexican women. Her peculiar costume, now rarely seen, possesses a semi-barbaric charm that interdicts all rivalry; but it will soon be a memory of the past, having given place in great measure to a more modern style. The common people have, generally, a great dread of having their pictures taken. A sort of superstition haunts them that the process will deprive them of some part of their being, either corporal or spiritual. This dread was realized when the artist took her revenge on a curious crowd who had gathered so closely around us as to almost impede the manipulations of her pencil. I was constantly on the qui vive for some of my former mozos who had left me some years before to go to their families. I was certain on one occasion that I had found one of them, but he had risen from the rank of nioso to a cargador, with all the dignity and equipments of that station. When he entered the house where I was, on an errand, the resemblance to Miguel Rodriguez 408 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. was so striking that I told him so, and begged him to allow himself to be sketched. But no sooner were the initial marks made upon the paper, than, looking on to examine the work, he became filled with unreasonable but not-to-be-combated terror, saying, perhaps the man he looked like had robbed me, and so, with the inevitable finger motion, and a " No, I cannot permit it ! " turned and fled out of the room, down the steps, and up the street like a deer before the hounds. In writing of this class, I have allowed them to speak for them- selves, and surely no histoiy is more reliable and complete than that related by the actors in the events recorded. They are possessed of a certain amount of piquancy, as expressed in their peculiar dialect and idioms. With this there is united also a strong vein of humor, and they usually see a point as quickly as any people. In consideration of the fact that they have but little education, their native shrewdness and intelligence are surprising. The most highly educated and enlightened cannot cope with them in the matter of barter and sale and the counting of money. By instinct they know just how, when, and where to strike the weak point of a stranger in any business transaction. Americans are special objects of interest in this line. They always imagine that all Americans are possessed of boundless wealth. The love of money is well developed, and the possibility of win- ning even a tlaco at gambling is sufficient to induce them to lose a whole night's sleep. These people are made up of that mixed race of natives and whites called mestizos. Their social life is of a free nature, and consequently but few marriages take place among them. The women are vulgarly called gat as (cats), or gdrbanccras (bastards) ; the former are those who usually perform the offices of chambermaids, nurses and cooks, the latter generally do the marketing. As the shops where the marketing is done are kept by the commo'i MORE ABOUT THE COMMON PEOPLE. 409 people, when a viarchaiita (customer) appears, the shopkeeper begins to pay her compliments, and say things with double meanings. She usually answers in the same manner, which causes the shopkeeper to laugh. If the servant is at all attractive, and the clerk understands that she is a match for him, and sees that she receives his compli- ments with pleasure, he takes her basket, keeps on talking to her, and tries to keep her as long as possible. They carry on something like the following dialogue by the clerk saying to her : " Que cosa sc le ofrccc, mi vida ? " (" What do you want, my life?") " No sc cnojc porquc hasta cso sale perdiendo'^ (" Don't get mad, for you will only be the loser"). ^^ No Ic hnporta, anda dispaclienie" she replies ("Mind your own business, come wait on me"). " Pues deme la tnano y digamc eoitio se llama" (" Weil, give me your hand and tell me your name"), he rejoins. Her reply to this is full of stinging sarcasm, which finds vent in the following way : " Ora si ! que cncaiiiisado, tan igualado ! Pareee que soy su jugcte. A nda dispachcmc y no esie nioliendo que sc me hace tarde y la niiia me regaha porquc mc tardo con cl niandaao" (" Well, I should say you were a naked upstart. One would think I was your plaything. Come, wait on me, and don't bother me, for it is getting late, and the mistress will scold me for being so long doing the errands"). When he sees she is a little angry, he gives her back the basket with the things she has bought. She then throws the money to him on the counter, in an angry manner, for him to take out the cost of what she has bought. When he gives her back the change, he takes her hand, which she pulls away, after he has given it a squeeze. The next day she returns to the same shop or stand, but this time she pre- sents herself a little less reluctantly than before, and without mind- ing at all what is said to her. On the contrary, she leads him on, by throwing little stones at him or giving him a sly pinch. At the end of a month or two they make an appointment to meet 4IO FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. where they may take advantage of the opportunity to treat of their love affairs more freely. The day, hour and place being appointed, by means of which they can see each other alone (which is the first object of all lovers), they get permission from their employers, and dressing themselves the best they can, hasten to the trysting place. The first time they look at each other they are somewhat discon- certed, and try to pretend indifference. But she is not so severe in her manner but that he feels authorized in venturing on a caress. From that time he thinks it proper that she should not serve any longer where she has been, although she has been giving him a part of all her wages. In reply she says she " does not want to lose her peace of mind, because men always say the same thing to women, and she does not want him to repent by and by and put her out into the street." But at last she adds, "If you will not forsake me and will treat me kindly, I am disposed to love you ; only you must tell my parents, and, if they consent, and your intentions are good, you can rely upon my being your sweetheart." After this, the man takes the woman by the hand or puts his arm around her and covering her with his own scrape, which is the general custom, they go to some stand where things, if not of very good quality, are excessively cheap, and eat enchiladas and tamales and diX'WiV pulque . Often the honeymoon does not last long ; dissension and strife are apt to ensue, and the old story of domestic infelicity is repeated. Still, though the woman concludes her husband does not love her, if he does not use the rod, they are not so miserable as might appear. A woman of the common people prefers a man of her own class, however poor and rough he may be, to one of a higher station, what- ever offers or promises he may make her. For they still preserve the traditional aversion which the Creoles and native races have always felt for foreigners. Among the Indians the violation of conjugal faith is more rare than in any other class of society, not even excepting the middle MORE ABOUT THE COMMOX PEOPLE. 411 class, wliich, beyond question in Mexico, as in all other countries, is the most moral and upright. When legal marriages occur, the parents make every arrange- ment when the young people have arrived at an age at which they are able to bear the responsibilities of married life. When such a case presents itself, the parents of the lover go to the house of the sweetheart, and take with them a cliiqnilndtc (a certain kind of big basket), containing a turkey, several bottles of native brandy and other drinks, bread, ears of '0^,<'\ dried corn, and peppers of different kinds. The first time the parents of the lover go to ask for the girl's hand, they organize a sort of pro- cession, composed of some of the relatives and friends of the family and a band of music, which plays without intermission from the house from which they start to the dwelling of the maiden. Once there, the band and the rest of the proces- sion are profoundly silent, while the petition is being made. The first request is gen- erally refused by the parents of the girl, until they consult with the relatives and ascertain the will of her who is sought in marriage. If the result is favorable, they appoint the wedding day ; if unfavorable, the answer is reduced simply to returning the basket with its contents. As soon as the news in the affirmative is received, the family of the bridegroom invite all their friends to the fandango which is given on the day of the wedding, in honor of the newly-married couple. A MOUNTAINEER. 412 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. The bridegroom appears in pantaloons and short jacket of cash- mere, white embroidered shirt, red sash, raw hide or deerskin shoes, and a highly decorated, broad-brimmed hat. Followed by his family, padrinos (those who are to give him away), witnesses, and those who have been invited, he proceeds to the house of the bride, where he is overwhelmed with attentions from the family. The dress of the bride consists of a blue skirt with red sash, and a chemise with a deep yoke and sleeves elaborately embroidered with bright-colored beads, a red silk handkerchief with points crossed in front, and held by a fancy pin. The handkerchief serves to cover the neck and breast, leaving the arms free. She also wears many strings of beads, and silver hoop ear-rings of extraordinary size. Her hair is worn in two braids, laid back and forth on the back of her head, the ends tied with red ribbons. She wears babuchas, a kind of slipper made either of deerskin trimmed with beads or of gay cloth. The toilet is completed with a white woolen mantle, cut in scallops trimmed with blue, and hanging from the plaited hair. After they have proceeded to the church and have been married according to the usual religious ceremony, they go to the house of the bride, accompanied by the greater part of the inhabitants of the village where the marriage has taken place, followed by sky-rockets, music, and shouts from the boys. In the house there is a large room decorated with wreaths, flowers, and tissue-paper ornaments, with palm-leaf mats and wooden benches running around the room. Here the wedding feast takes place, presided over by the bride and the madrina (the one who gave her away), who sit on the mats at one end of the room, while the bridegroom and h\s padrino, and other guests, occupy the wooden benches. There they receive the congratulations of relatives and friends. But before the dinner, the bride removes her wedding finery, and puts on a house dress, and grinds all the corn that will be necessary to make the tortillas for the repast. When the dinner, which generally takes place about six o'clock, is over, the dance begins, accompanied in its motions by songs which, though agreeable, are somewhat melancholy. The older guests re- MORE ABOUT THE COMMON PEOPLE. 413 main at the table drinking /w/^z^f and recalling their youth, until this cheerful beverage reconciles them to the epoch in which they live. The greater part of the night is spent in this way. The following day they repair to the house of the bridegroom, where the feast is concluded with another dinner and dance; the only difference being that on this occasion the bride has nothing to do with the preparations. The two days which are devoted to the solemnization of the wed- ding being spent, the couple receive the blessing of their parents and retire to their own house to enjoy the honeymoon. The following is a specimen of a street conversation between a man and woman of the common people. Says the man : " Pos ondcva mi vida,pos dc donde sale tan linda coino 7ina rosa ? ni signiera habla ? " (" Where are you going, my life ? Where do you come from as nice as a rose? Don't you want to speak to me ? ") " Pos ande habia de ir? Mire que pregunta ! " (" Where am I going? Listen, what a question ! "), she replies. " Pos claro oiidc va ? b ya porque /leva su rebosito niicvo se la hcctui de lado ! " (" Well, that's all right, but where are you going? Now that you have on your new reboco, you are beginning to put on airs ! "), he retorts. At the same moment he catches her by the rebozo. " Oh, sndlicnie, mire qiie aburricion con V. todos los dias que lo encu- entro me ha d'estar moliendo ! Caramba con V. ? " (" Oh, let me alone! what a nuisance you are! Every day I see you, you bother me so! Goodness, what can I do with you ? ") she vehemently replies. " Pero no se enoje. Me qiiiere 6 no me quiere ? digame y si no me dice no la dejo ir ! " (" Don't get mad. Do you love me or not ? tell me, and if you don't tell me I shan't let you go"), says he, pacifically. " Dale otra vez, pos ya no se lo dije el otro dia qjie no me andc iiwles- tando ? " ("But didn't I tell you the other day not to bother me again ? ") says she. " Cuando me lo ha dicho ? mire nada mas que embustera f " (" When did you tell me that ? See what a story-teller you are ! ") answers the man. 414 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. "Bueno, si no me dcja, sc lo digo al gendarme que alii viene I" (" Well, if you don't let me go, I'll tell the policeman who is coming there ! ") she threateningly answers. " Digasclo, el no tieiie que vcr con mis negocios ! " (" Tell him, then ; he has no right to know my business ! ") says the man, inso- lently. And when she sees that she can't go, then she says, entreat- ingly: '' Qnc qiiicre ? y dejcne ir que se me Jiace /rtrc/r " (" What do you want ? Let me go, now, because it is getting late "). He : " Pos ya sc lo dije que si me quicre 6 no f " (" I have already asked you, do you love me or not ? "). " Pos yo lo qiiisiera pcro dicen que cs casado, pos para que mc quiere? eiitonccs vayasc eon su nuyer ! " (" I should like you, but I was told that you are married ; if so, what do you want with me? Go on to your wife ! ") she replies. "• Miri' ! Jiada mas lo que son las j'cnlcs dc vicntirosas. Quien sc lo dij'o ? Si fuera easado, no la quisiera, pos digame nada 7nas " (" See what story-tellers the people are! Who told you? If I was married, I wouldn't love you. Only tell me"), he retorts. " Bueno, que deveras me quicre ? " (" Weil, is it really true that you love me? ") she now pleasantly replies. ^"^ Pos Hast a la pard d'enfrcnie, como no/ V. mas diilcc que un acitron y mas bucna que' I pan calicnte. Qualqitiera scnamora dc V. nada mas con que sc le quite un poquito cl gcnio de Suegra que tiene, cntonces si valia la plata, pcro no tcnga cuidado que yo sc lo quitarc ! " (" I love you about as much as that wall in front of us. Why not ? You're sweeter than preserves or candy, and better than hot bread. Whoever sees you will love you, only you must leave off some of that hot temper such as mothers-in-law have, and then you'll be equal to a silver mine; but never mind, don't bother yourself, I'll get all that out of you !") After this, her hot temper gets the better of her, and, tossing his hand from her shoulder, and releasing the rebozo, she says: " D(feine ! ddjeme ! " (" Get out the way, and let me alone ! "), and. MORE ABOUT THE COMMON PEOPLE. 41 5 wrapping her rcbozo more tightly about her head, passes rapidly from his sight. Under ordinary circumstances, the common people are easily con- trolled, but if anything occurs suddenly to rouse their slumbering wrath or animosity, every animate object had better retire before the advancing frenzied multitude. Face a stampede of buffaloes — jump into the raging sea, or risk the relentless cyclone — but. always keep clear of a Mexican mob. Let their anger be aroused at a bull- fight because of the inefificiency of the torrcros or the tameness of the bull, the further one gets from the scene the better for him. They demolish the ring, tear down its whole interior, smash the benches and seats into atoms, and did not the ruralcs, or strong police force, take charge of the bull-fighters, they would be in dan- ger of losing their lives. The mob comes down upon them like a thundering tornado. It has been estimated that the number of people who serve in one capacity or another is about one-fifth of the common population. That part relating to the household is in a great measure an insepa- rable adjunct of it ; but there are also separate services that are per- formed by people on the outside, who come daily for the purpose. The low wages, and the generally poverty-stricken condition of the masses, place the servants in a state of extreme dependence. , An average house in the city has from ten to twenty servants, and I have seen some grand houses where thirty or thirty-five were em- ployed. Each one has his or her separate duties to perform, and there is no clashing and no infringement one upon the other. A larger number of Mexican servants can live on peaceable terms than those of any other nationality. It is a rare occurrence to hear them quarreling, whatever disaffection may exist. The leading servants of the household may be classified as follows : El portcro — The man who takes care of the door. El cocliero — The driver. 4l6 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. El la cay — The footman. El caballerango — The hostler. El mozo — A general man for errands, etc. (I have given an idea of him in all his glory.) El cargador — A public carrier. El camarista — In hotels he is the chambermaid ; in private houses he attends the gentleman of the house, brushes clothes, etc. La recamerera — Female chambermaid, as employed in private houses. Ama de Haves — Mistress of the keys, literally ; the housekeeper. Cocinera — The cook. Galopina — The scullion. Pilniaiiia — In the Mexican idiom, piltoutli niiia {mama-car gar') — The woman who carries the child out to walk. Chichi — Mexican idiom, chichihua — Wet-nurse. Molcndera — The woman who grinds the corn Costurera — Sewing woman. Planchadora — Ironing woman. The position o{ porter o is the most responsible one about the house. Both day and night he is charged with the safety and well-being of its inmates. They are generally excellent and reliable men, and per- form their duties with remarkable zeal and fidclit}-. In large cities he does nothing but guard the door, but in smaller towns the posi- tion of portero is often merged in that of mozo, or general man. At the capital one man will have the responsible care of a large building, * in which perhaps ten or a dozen families reside. They all look to him for the safety of their rooms or apartments. He lives with his family in some dark little nook under a staircase, or, if the house is so arranged, he may have a comfortable room with a window on the street ox patio. A Mexican lacayo in his picturesque hat and faultless black suit, elaborately trimmed with jingling silver, is indeed a " thing of beauty and a joy forever," but not a single instance have I ever heard of a seflorita's eloping with him : the difference in station is never over- looked when it comes to matrimony. These servants have deep attachments for the family with whom i'ETATE, JARANA AND POTTERY VENDERS. MORE ABOUT THE COMMON PEOPLE. 419 they live. They sometimes serve in one a life-time, and when no longer able to do so, are succeeded by their children, in the same capacity. In case of a death in the family where they are employed, they at once don the somber luto (black), and never appear outside the house without it for six months. This faithful attachment is especially and frequently shown by the pilmauia. She will tenderly and patiently nurse each child in rota- tion, and to the last one her devotion is unimpaired. She also takes charge of baby's clothes, and herself washes the dainty fabrics, rather than intrust them to a lavandcra. Children have their own pet name for the /lilinama, abbreviating it into nana, '" Quicro mi nana" ("I want m}' nana") being frequently heard. The chichi (wet-nurse) does nothing but give sustenance to the babe, and is never permitted to leave the house except under the surveillance of the a7na de llavcs. This latter functionarj,- has entire charge of the household linen. She directs the army of servants under her, and is a kind of queen- bee in the hive. She holds herself far above the servants, will carry no household packages, and is very tenacious of the dignity attaching to her position. Indeed, it not infrequently happens that she is a relative or connection of the family. She has frequently three or four assistants. Mexican servants as a whole are tractable, kind, faithful, and hum- ble. They shrink instinctively from harshness or scolding, but yield a willing obedience to kindly given orders. They are accused of being universal thieves, in which accusation I do not concur, although, indeed, the extremely low wages for which they work might seem to warrant, or at least excuse, small peculations. But they have this redeeming trait, that they generally appreciate the trust placed in them, and this sometimes to a remarkable degree. Instances were not uncommon during the days of revolution when portcros, inoMs, and other servants voluntarily sacrificed their lives in defense of the life or property of their employers. But they have their peculiarities, 420 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. acquired and engendered by the various circumstances that have hedged them about, for which all allowance must be made. If due patience and tact be exercised in the outset by foreign housekeepers, they will surely become deeply attached to the entire household, and better servants are not to be found. Especially is this true with regard to American children, to whom they become extremely de- voted. But it must be remembered that their customs are overgrown with the moss of centuries, and care must be exercised in disturbing it by foreign methods of labor, or the application of new ideas. They know their own way, and have a repugnance to any interference with their precious " costumbrcs." In their various employments their deportment is of the most quiet kind. If the mistress desires their attention, unless near at hand she does not call their names, but merely slaps her hands together, which attracts immediate attention. This clapping is practiced in the street as well as in the house. Nothing would sooner confuse a servant than calling her name in a loud, harsh key. On the frontier the mistress is known as scuora, but in interior towns and cities she is always the iiifia (child), no matter if she has reached a hundred years. The hand motion by which a servant is summoned is the reverse of our beckoning sign — the palm being turned outward. The wages of a cook are from $2.00 to $5.00 per month ; coach- man, from $10.00 to $30.00; serving women, $3.00 to $8.00; and so on in like proportion. With these small sums entire rations are not furnished them. They are paid a medio and qiiariillo each day, independent of their wages, to buy coffee and bread in the morning, and bread and pulque for each dinner and supper; or they are paid 62}^ cents every eight days, for this purpose. In some places a medio s worth of soap is given them each week to have their clothes washed, and the lower the wages, the less soap they get. The value of this soap is often col- lected a month in advance, thus leaving a glaring deficit in their clean clothes account. MORE ABOUT THE COMiVOA^ PEOPLE. 421 They generally leave the last place in debt, which is assumed by the new master. If the servant's wages be $4.00 per month, and she owes $12.00 or $25.00, as the case may be, she draws only $2.50, leaving $1.50 for her abono (amount of indebtedness). A singular method of keeping accounts is that employed by the untutored common people. I saw an Indian on the line of a certain railway who had engaged to furnisli goats' and cows' milk for the con- tractors. The cows' milk he purchased from another party; the ac- count with the railway and that with the party from whom he bought the milk were kept on a stick stripped of the bark in alternate sec- tions. Certain kinds of notches were then cut on either side, indicat- ing pints or quarts ; other notches, straight or oblique, represented qiiartillos ( 3 cents), iiicdios (6 cents), or rcalcs (12A cents), the payment for the same. An error occurred in the settlement of the accounts, which the book-keeper did not observe, but which was discovered by the Indian, and, though against himself, he would only settle according to the notches on his stick. Customs may vary in different provinces as to the way of keeping private accounts. At the capital the lives and " costiinibrcs " of the servants are different from those in small towns and interior cities. I append tlie account of a cook at Santa Rosalia, which will give an idea of the forms called librettos there used between servant and employer. In the table given below it must be stated that x crossing the line means ten dollars, and V above the line, five dollars ; q cross- ing the line is one dollar, while a small naught above the line is half a dollar; a straight mark crossing the line ( | ) is a real ■ and a short one above the line is a medio. By this it will be seen that " Gertrude Torres, under a certain date, agrees to cook and do whatever work is required of her in the house. She enters the house owing her former employer thirty-four dollars. Her new master assumes this debt, without which she could not have changed her place. Her wages are four dollars per month, and from this sum Don Santiago Stoppelli retains three dollars toward the liquida- 27 422 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. tion of the original amount. The accompanying plates show how these accounts are kept. '^ ^■^^ ^^»-Z. i^^y^^^C^ The furnishing of the homes of the common people is necessarily meager; sometimes only mats laid upon the dirt floor serve for beds, or a few rudely made bedsteads and chairs, with pictures of the saints and a quantity of home-manufactured toys, constitute the outfit. They ^xc jcntc ordinario, but their houses are reasonably clean. One corner of the room is generally devoted to an infinite variety of pot- tery suspended on nails, This is collected from all parts of the coun- try, and is their chief household treasure ; even small children can point out the different kinds and tell where each piece was made. Let one enter when he will, he is sure to be greeted politely, and to have the kindliest hospitality extended to him. I remember one of MOJiL ABOUT THE COMMON PEOPLE. 423 the houses into which I went where a pretty young woman of twenty years sat crocheting, while the bab)- slept in his petatc cradle and the husband lay sick on his humble cot in the corner. She cordially wel- comed me, and when I was seated, he, though feeble and trembling, raised himself upon his el- bow, tendering me the hos- pitality of his pobrc casa ; then asked his wife to pre- pare for me a cup of coffee or chocolate, which she did. I condoled with him on ^ •\^.v;^/jj»" ,<^^5^^''v ^^"-^'^^ "-- his illness and hoped he ■"/' y .■ ,/ ; ^ ' — ; — would soon be well. lo ^, ^, -^^ is;.^Z/',;:.^~>_ ^^ /y.~f".^^^,,^!;^i^ a^' J '^au /.■^/. ^Ta A^.'o this he rejjlied he hoped so, but as he had consump- tion, there was little chance for his recovery ; but if it were possible, he would like to get well, " in order to serve me the rest of his life ! " I was agreeably surpris- ed to find so many sewing- machines, and that the wo- men understand their use quite as well as we do. A machine agent informed me that the women of this class are as prompt to meet their installments as those in any country. But the price of sewing is so very cheap — only one cent a yard — that they must do a great deal to render themselves self-sustaining. Babies are cared for with great tenderness. They are wrapped as tightly as possible in " swaddling-clothes " until about one month old, when the calzo)icillos (little breeches) are substituted, for both 424 FACE 10 FACE UTI II HIE MEXICANS. boys and girls. The accompanying illustration represents a girl of two months. I asked the mother if it were girl or boy. '' Miijer" (" woman "), she answered, '■'Fclicita Rodriguez criada dc V." Never was there a more delii\'^i^^^^^ V i MORE ABOUT THE COMMON PEOPLE. 425 " Yes, he is a beauty now, but wait till he is twelve or fourteen years old, and he will be mas scrio," meanini^ that he lost his spiritucllc expression and became coarse and sallow. Pity it is that this loveliness is so evanescent. The cvangclistas (letter-writers) have a distinct position to them- selves. They subserve a valuable purpose to the great army of ser- vants and low-class people, who, through them, carry on a correspond- ence with their lovers. With a board on his knees, or perhaps some- times a plain little table, and a big jug of ink, and pen behind the ear, the cvangclista is ready to serve his customers. Anxious lovers stand around awaiting his leisure, the desire to transmit their sentiments making his services in high demand. Note paper, va- riously shaped, is at hand, and for a medio or real, a letter is fur- nished that will be expressive of grief, jealousy, love, and overweening affection. Lovi-letter writlcn by " tin evangelista." Apreciable SeSorita. Ouisiera tener el lenguaje de los angeles ; la dulce inspiracion de un poeta ; 6 la elocuencia de un Ciceron, para expresarme en terminos dignos de Vd. Pero por desgracia mi mente la cubre el velo de la ignorancia, y no puedo menos que tomarme la libertad de revelar a Vd. mis aficciones ; pues desde el primer dia que tuve la dicha de conocer a Vd., la calma ha huido de mi, y dominado por la pacion mas violenta, me adverbio a decir 4 Vd. que la Amo, con el amor mas puro y berdadero, y que aun me parece con esta declaracion que hago a Vd. de mi amor, que no supera el ardor que mi triste y afligido corazon sufre, mientras tanto obtengo la contesta- cion de Vd. quedo impaciente por saber el layo de vida 6 de muerte que d^ Vd. 'a. su apasionado. Es cuaiito le dice 4 Vd. quien 4 sus pies besa. Manuel Gomez v Suarez. Yfranslation.^ Esteemed Senorita. Would that I iiossessed the language of the angels, the sweet inspiration of a poet, or the eloquence of a Cicero, that I might then express myself in a manner 426 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. worthy of you. But alas ! my intellect, my brains, seem veiled in ignorance, and I cannot resist taking the liberty ol" revealing my love, my affection. When I first had the happiness of meeting you, my peace of mind fled, and governed solely by the most violent passion for you, I dare tell you I love you, with a love most pure, most true, and notwithstanding this declaration of my love you will not even then realize what mv sad, afflicted heart suffers until your answer reaches me. I impatiently await your fiat, whether of life or death, to your devoted, passionate one. Meanwhile 1 say to you, that I kiss your feet. Manuel Gomez v Su.^rez. A character which must be considered in the light of a nuisance, is to be found in both sexes all over the country. Plausible and gifted with all the "suavidad en cl inodo " of their betters, they ply their vocation in the street, as well as in private houses. If in the street, they come upon you unawares. Suddenly brown fingers are thrust under your nose, holding a comb, a toy, jewelry or a piece of dry goods or embroidery. You dare not even look at it, or feign the least knowledge of their presence, for if you should do so, they will haunt and pursue you for squares without ceasing. Enter a store, and be ever so much interested in the purchase of some article or textile fabric, here comes the irrepressible vender and again puts the article in your face, this time with a great reduction in price. Another class with which strangers are sure to be annoyed, are the women with black shawls drawn tightly about their heads and faces; neat calico dresses, cat-like tread, though invariably in a hurry, and with the most benignant expression on their countenances. If in your house, they approach you most luimbly, with many kindly in- quiries after the health of the family in general, and as to how the night has been passed. While doing this, the shawl goes slightly back, re- vealing some article of needlework, a handsome shawl, silk dress, or whatever else they may choose for gulling you. A long history of the article follows, ending by a high price being asked for it. You don't want it, so the price is reduced until perhaps you look a little more inclined ; but at last no sale is effected. She goes away ap- parently much disappointed and almost with tears in her eyes. But MORE ABOUT THE COMMON PEOPLE. 427 be patient ! she will come again with softer tread, and with such honeyed words as will surely win their way. She makes her appearance the second time with a handsome tray in hand, on which rest several kinds of tempting dukes. These she tells you have been sent by Dofia So-and-So, also naming the street; CRADLE OK A POOR BABY. that she has heard you are a stranger, and sends these as a token of her regard. Nothing remains but to accept them with many thanks for her interest, and the hope that she will soon call on you. The next day the thoughtful woman again enters, with a humility of manner that even Uriah Heep could not excel. She makes all manner of inquiry as to the health of each inmate of the household. She then states that it was a mistake about the remlo she had brought 428 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. a day or two before (of course you have long since eaten thein) ; that the Dona told her to sell them at a certain house, and she had made the mistake. You ask her the price, that being the only alternative, and it is a startling one. She is paid, and perhaps never again appears in your house, but she has amply paid you off for not buying the first article she offered. Happily these people do not exist in great numbers, and, though incorrigible wherever found, strangers soon discover their transparent tricks. The rcbozo is the boon of all these women, as they can carry securely concealed any number of articles without being detected by human eyes. The rcbcso also often assists in making the head of the wearer assume a ludicrous shape. Take a rear view, as the women sit cuddled up in groups of several dozen, or even hundreds, on the celebration of some feast, and with the flickering lights of a thousand torches dancing over their tightly drawn head-gear, the resemblance to a school of seals, with their heads peeping out of the water, could not be more perfect. The iiiolcndcra is a woman who docs the grinding on the Dictaic. whether corn for toi'tillas, coffee, or spices. Should the nwlcndcra set up an establishment of her own, and make tortillas for sale, or, as is sometimes the case, go at certain hours each day and make them for families, she then becomes a tortillcra. These tortillcras are a separate and distinct class, and have their own rules and regulations for conducting business. They employ ten or a dozen women, who grind the. corn and make the tortillas. When made, the women who sell them in the markets and streets come with their baskets and take them away, paying wholesale rates. The proprietress of the establishment is called the patrona, and the Queen of Sheba never moved about with more dignity and con- sequence. She pays her employes each day a real y medio, I have made it convenient to drop in at the hour for settling up with them. MORE ABOUT THE COMMOX PEOPLE. 429 She has a little chair or stool before lier, herself unostentatiously occupying the space in front of it on the floor. The real in silver, and six cents in tlacos for each " grinder," are laid in little piles, each one being named for the woman to whom it is to be paid. The patrona sits by and looks on serenely after counting over and over the piles, with satisfaction and self-importance emanating from her, and expressing in unspoken language — "You poor contemptible 'grind- ers^ you have no position ! " Jay Gould, in his mansion on Fifth Avenue, when reflecting on his ^^ A TORTILLA ESTABLISHMENT. enormous investments, could not feel more remote from the toiling multitude in the street beneath him than the patrona of the tortilla establishment feels her superiority to her subordinates. I never went into one of these places without being most cordially invited to be seated. On accepting the invitation, an animated con- versation would follow, while eating the delicious hot tortillas, fresh from the smoking comal, and admiring the animated bronze statuettes that ambled and capered about without even the disguise of a fig leaf. Invariably they desired to know my nationality. If I told them to 430 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. guess, they were sure to say France, Andalusia, or Spain, but " an American never ! " The portrait of Gregoria Queros represents one of these function- aries, and also the pure type of an Indian that she is. One might ■easily imagine her to be the mother of a hero, not only by her face, but also by her conversation. On entering her house, she began by asking the usual question, and guessing I was from France. But when told I was an American, she turned her head doubtfully to one side, as if in reflection. The silence was broken by m.y asking her: " What do you think of the Americans ! " and tlie somewhat startling reply came : " Los Americanos son como los Indios barharos " ( " The Americans are the same as wild Indians"). " Why do you say that ? " I asked. " Because," she answered, '' in 1847, when I was sixteen years old, they came down here and fought terrible battles all over this country. Just think of Chapultepec, Molino del Rey, and Churu- busco ; ah ! what sad days those were to us ! " " Well," I added (en- deavoring to recall her from reflections so painful), " what other objections have you to them ? " " They are never satisfied. They always want more land and more money. This is what tlicy live for." During this interesting colloquy she preserved a politely respectful demeanor, GRECOR.A Qu.Ros. snd fclt cvldcntly pained to MORE ABOUT THE COMMON PEOPLE. 43 1 be compelled to tell me such absolute truths. A sharp neurali^ic pain in her face brouijht forth a moan and a sigh, when she explained that for a whole }ear she had never been able to go for one day without the handkerchief on her head. I asked her if she knew President Diaz. "Who? Porfirio ? I don't know him personally, but he has the reputation of being a very good and brave man ; but — -he has already been married twice." I could only infer that his bravery and courage would vanish, if he should ever try matrimony again. I never found either a man or woman of that class, who spoke of the president by any other than his Christian name. The lavandera is an important outside servant. Owing to the construction of the houses, in part, and to the fact of the water being conveyed to them from the city fountains, washing is rarely done on the premises. The lavandcras also have their own rules and regulations, and are as rigid in exacting the observance of them by their subordinates and satellites as any other class. In some cities and towns the lavandera is not also \.\\c planckadora. She does not even starch the clothes, but is supplied with soap for the washing. At those places presided over by a patrona, the contract is taken for all, but the custom is to charge by the piece and never by the dozen. But in the smaller towns and cities she will receive a rca/ a dozen for washing alone, having soap fur- nished. When she returns them, the plancliadora comes, counts, and, on being supplied with starch and coal or wood, again takes them away to finish the job. There is, however, an agreeable offset to all this — the plancliadora is also the apuntar ; she mends carefully every article requiring it before taking her work home. At the capital there are laundries inside the houses where lavandc- ras may go and rent, for a medio a day, a compartment of brick in which the water flows from a fountain. 432 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. i:i:lill5i,i'''i''l '^ WASH-HOUSE AT THE CAPITAL. Springs usually burst from some steep declivity of the neighbor- ing mountains, and not infrequently in the descent to valley and lowland the water circles and winds about through the adjacent trees. In such desirable loca tions are the spots coveted ^-^ . by the lai'an- ^ ^.;C^' deras. bome- ^C /- times for the distance of two miles they may be seen like a bright fringe along the edge of the stream, in costumes which would delight a painter in search of the unconven- tional. On these occasions their hair is unbraided and hangs in a superb mass of rippling waves to the end. The only dress is a red woolen pet- ticoat and the chemise, both of which serve only to enhance the classic beauty of form disclosed by the peculiar costume. Six or seven days of the week, kneeling in graceful attitudes, these laundresses may be seen expending their tireless energy on the WASHERUUME.N' IN THH iTOrNTKY. MORE ABOUT THE CO MM OX PEOPLE. 433 ropa (clothes). Armed with the crude washinj^ equipments of the ancient Egyptians — only a stone slab, or at best a wooden tray resem- bling our bread-trays — they make their week's washing whiter than the whitest. However it is accomplished, the fact remains that with- out boiling, washing-soda, washboard, tub or bucket, and even in many cases without soap, this perplexing branch of domestic life is brought to perfection. The agiiador is the most noted of all the classes who serve outside the residence. As there are few houses furnished with pipes, the water supply is transported by this functionary. His costume is peculiar to himself and well adapted to his vocation. It varies in every province. That worn in the City of Mexico is the most pictur- esque, and deserves a descrip- tion. Over a shirt and drawers of common domestic he wears a jacket and trousers of blue cloth or tanned buckskin. The latter are turned up nearly to the knee. With his leathern helmet, broad leather strap across his forehead, called fronicra (from which depends the chochocol, or water-vessel), leathern apron, and sandals of the same, called guarachi, vie m\ght imagine him to be a man in armor, so completely is he enveloped in this substantial equipment. The piece that covers the back, and on which the chochocol rests, is called rcspaldadcra, or back-rest ; that which reaches from the waist to the knee, dclantal or apron ; and that which protects the thigh, the rosadera. All these pieces are fastened by means of thongs to a W ATt-'k LAKPIER. 434 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. leather waistcoat, which serves to support and balance the large jar. Both jars are attached to straps which cross on the head over a palm- leaf cap with leather visor. It is essential that these vessels corre- spond in size and perfectly balance. If either be suddenly broken, the aguador at once loses his balance and falls to the ground. On the opposite side to the rosadcra he carries a deerskin pouch called barrcga, adorned with figures. This pouch serves for carrying the nickel coins and. pitolcs, or small red beans with which he keeps an account of the number of trips he makes, being paid at the end of a week or fortnight, according to the number of beans he leaves at a house. He also keeps a corresponding "tally-sheet" with beans, and compares notes with his employer when being paid. The aguador is a person of importance ; nobody knows better than he the inner life of the household that he serves. He is often made the messenger between lovers, and when for any reason he may refuse to perform that office, the ingenious lover resorts to artifice, and by means of wax fastens the missive upon the bottom of the clwclwcol, and the wwzo\\i,z\o\i?, agitador thus conveys it to the expectant fair one, who informed of the device, is ready to remove the epistle. He often wonders why the young mistress comes out so early in the morning to meet him, and that he so frequently finds her lover standing at the door of his house. The (7f;/rt(^/i9r scarcely ever dines at home. His wife meets him with a basket covered with a napkin at the entrance to some house, and there, together with his children and companions, he dines with good appetite and without annoyance of an}' kind. Then he goes to the fountain where lie is accustomed to draw water, frees himself of his jars, and stretches himself in the shade to take his siesta ; or he spends the rest of the day at some pulque shop, playing a game called " raycula " with his companions, or repeating pleasantries and proverbs to the maids that happen to pass near him, and drinking pulque. But in the midst of this monotony, they also have their days of enjoyment, their days of merriment and diversion. The feast of the Holy Cross arrives, and when day begins to daw n, they burn MORE ABOUT THE COMMON PEOPLE. 435 an endless number of rockets and bombs, which they call saiva or salute. When the sun rises, the sign of the cross has been already placed on the spring of the fountain, or in the center, if the fountain is in a public square. The said crosses are adorned with rosaries or chains of poppies and ccnipazuchitl. On that day the water-men bathe, dress themselves in their holiday clothes and go to dine in community, eat- ing heartily and drinking white and prepared pulque the greater part of the day. One of the poor waterman's joys is the Saturday of Passion Week, or Sabado dc Gloria : but this day is not so animated as the former, for it is confined to strewing flowers on the water of the fountain and burning an image representing their profession. The following account of the superstitious beliefs of the Nahoan Indians is taken from Mexico d traves de los Siglos. They had sin- gularly materialistic views in regard to death. They believed that Mictlan (literally hell) was reached b)- the dead after a long and painful journey. Their hieroglyphics indicate that the dead must first cross the Apanohuaya river, and to do this it was necessary to have the aid of a little yellow dog (tcchiclih with a cotton string tied around his neck, which was placed in the hands of the dead. Dogs of no other color could be used, as neither white nor black dogs could cross the river. The white ones would say, " I have been washed," while the black ones rejoined, " I have been stained." These dogs were reared by the natives for this special purpose, and the teclnelii is that well-kno'vn favorite among perros, now called the Chihua- hua dog. After crossing the river, the dog led his master, devoid of clothing, between two mountains that were constantly clashing together, then over one covered with jagged rocks, and then over eight hills upon which snow was ever falling, on through eight deserts where the winds were as sharp as knives. After this he led him through a path where arrows were flying continually ; and, worst of all, he encountered a tiger that ate out his heart, when he fell into a deep, dark, foaming 436 FACE TO FACE UFTIf THE MEXICANS. river, filled with lizards, after which he appeared before the Kiny of Mictlan, when his tortuous journey was ended and his identity ceased. It was also a belief that when the body began this journey it must have been buried for a period of four years. In this belief it was not the soul, but the body in actuality that made the mysterious jour- ney. For those who enjoy euphonious names, I will state that the name of the last stopping place was ''Izinictlanapochcalocca, on which the alligator Xochitonal is encountered ; the alligator is the earth's symbol and Xochitonal the last day of the year, which shows the body here reached the last stage of its existence and became dust of the earth." When the two are united we see readily the connecting link in their ideas : that at the end of a certain time the body is converted into dust, and the dead are finished forever. The Milk Tree for Dead Children—/^/ Arbol dc Lcchc dc los Nifws- Mucrtos, embodies another super- stitious tradition of the Nahoa Indians, which was the existence of a mansion where children went after death. This was called Chilutacuaulico, from a tree which was supposed to grow there, from the branches of which milk dropped to nourish the children which clung to them. It was believed that these children would return to populate the world after the race which then inhabited it had passed away among the Me.xican lower classes, though without this post-mortem materialism, are quite as strong and as closely adhered to. They are almost numberless, and the most mm ^^^^r/A^ A CKLESTIAL MONOPOLY. The superstitions of to-day MORE ABOrr THE COMMON PEOPLE. 437 insignificant lias its own place, not to be substituted by any other. Evidences of this appear in the performance of tlie simplest duty. Let them begin to make a fire, and the first movement is to make the sign of the cross in the air before the range ; or if about to cook any such articles as tortillas, many of them, as preliminary, make the cross and utter a few words of prayer. The moon has much to do with these fancies, and many of their individual failings are laid to the account of that luminary. These are carried with humorous effect into the smallest minutise of household labors. In killing fowls, they pull the head off, then make the sign of the cross with the neck on the ground, and laying the chicken on the place, declare it cannot jump about ; but I noticed they always held it firmly on the cross. Many of them keep a light burning both day and night in their houses. In the majority of instances, the light is merely a wax taper placed in a glass half filled with water, with a little oil on the top. Beside the taper a cross is fixed. On one occasion, I went into a tortilla establishment where were eight or ten women grinding corn, and seeing the light 1 asked the patroiia why she kept this light burning. "Because," she answered, "I want God and all his saints to keep this house from evil spirits. We have to work very hard all day, and when this light is burning they dare not come near." " Do you keep it burning always? " said I. " Yes, always ; without it we would be in total darkness." Then, turning to me, she asked : " Have you not God and saints in your countr)'?" " Yes ; but we believe that God will protect us without the light, and we do not depend on the saints ; " which ended the col- loquy. I have been at times much impressed with the seriousness and sentiment so evidently underlying these little superstitious actions. The old tainalcra, the music of whose grito appears in these pages, came to our house the evening I left the capital. She released her 28 438 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. burden from her back, and then began as usual to chat with me, her extreme age and trembUng frame appealing strongly to my sympathies. When I had sung her grito over and over with her, she made the sign of the cross over the olla in which she kept her tmnalcs, then crossed herself, saying: " In the name of the Diviiia Providencia may I have enough customers to buy these tamales, that I may go early to my home. I am weary of trudging these streets, and mi pobrc casa is far away." Before leaving, she turned to me, and, with tears stream- ing down her face, placed her hand on my head and said : "Nina, you leave us to-night to go to your home, that is far, far away in another land ; may the Divina Providencia take you safely there ; may you find your people well, and some day before I die, may you return to us here, and sing again with me this grito ! " On the feast of All Souls, they place a table on the sidewalk con- taining such articles of food as their dead friends and relatives liked best — even to the pulque. When morning comes, it is, of course, all gone, and the donor is duly happy, because she imagines the dear dead ones have returned and partaken of their favorite food, when in reality, mischievous boys have consumed these precious edibles. On this day the various venders and outside help come for their gifts, just as newsboys come for their contributions on New Year's. These gifts are disguised under the name of calavcras — skulls. Each one asks in his own characteristic fashion, the paper carrier in the follow- Your faithful carrier Cheerfully presents himself. Encouraged by the hope Of olitaining your favor : You who are a subscriber, Applauded everywhere For that sincere loyalty With which you are accustomed to pay : He only comes to beg you To fiive him his 'Calavera.'" .UORE ABOUT THE COMMON PEOPLE. 439 The curandoa is another outside household appendage. She is the professional nurse, and as such is faithful, ready, and attentive. In this capacity her services are invaluable. She may also assume the role of practicing physician, and with numerous remedies and herbs of every kind, she becomes quite a power in the land. There is a world of witchcraft and superstition in the practice of the curandcras, and the common people stand in great awe of them. In the rural districts their pharmacy consists of ground glass, beaten shells, white lead, and an infinity of herbs. Their diagnosis embraces calor y frio (heat and cold), and their therapeutics are always directed toward these two conditions. A disease quite common which these women assume to cure is cinpccJic, a condi- tion where undigested food adheres to some part of the stomach. To dislodge the einpeche, they give white lead and quicksilver, at fre- quent intervals, in com- pound doses. For paraly- sis, they have been know n to give blue and red glass beads, ground up in equal portions, a table- spoonful at a dose. Strange to relate, the patient re- covered. If a child is slow in learning to talk, they recommend a diet of boiled swallows. This is infallible. If he is slow about walking, his legs should be rubbed with dirt. This accounts for the fact that pclado {poor) children acquire the use of their limbs sooner than those of the higher classes. VICENTA. "/ becatite a doctor by my natural inteltigence.'' 440 FACE TO FACE WITH THE .1/FX/CA.VS. The portrait of Viccnta gives an excellent idea of the intellectual development of these women doctors. From a conversation I held with her, I feel confident she had some believer in " Altruistic Faith " as partner in the practice of her profession ; for when I asked her how she became a doctor, she coolly replied : " B)' my natural intelligence." CHAPTER XIII. TO PUEHLA, CHOLULA, SAN MIGUEL SESMA, AND ORIZABA— ALONT, THE MEXICAN RAILWAY. E left the capital at early dawn for a visit to Puebla and other places of interest, along the Mexican or Vera Cruz Rail- way, which penetrates the tropic glories of the ticrra calicnte. Swiftly we sped along the smooth rails, passing numerous wayside shrines, where, in the not remote past, earnest devotees halted for a prayer as they wended their way on their knees to re- new their vows at the great temple of Guadalupe. Picturesque Indian bur- den-bearers trotted along beside the cars, peering through the windows, now and then taking off a hat or waving a hand in salutation to some passing acquaint- ance. We whirled through fields of maguey, growing in parallel lines which intersected each other. The rapid motion of the train causing these lines to successively converge and diverge, the figure of a star was constantly being presented, and I could not but be delighted in fancying I saw pictured on these distant plains the emblem of my own great State. At San Juan Teotihuacan our nineteenth century civilization in- A BUNCH OF GRANIDITAS. 442 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. trudes on that of pre-historic times. In this Mexican Pompeii cemented floors and frescoed walls exist whose colors of green, yellow, and red are exceedingly brilliant. A strange and complex order of architecture, with columns and frescoed stonework, is revealed, and the remains of temple, amphitheater, or monument have been partially e.xhumed. What grand disclosures await the A HAY-RICK. scientist when full explorations have been made of the buried Mecca, the ancient city, the temple, or place of sepulture of the Toltecs ! The Mexican Government has now placed the exhuming of these wonderful ruins under the charge of Sefior Leopold Batres, an enthusiastic archaeologist, under whom the work is progressing satisfactorily. At Apizaco we leave the main line for Puebla, distant thirty miles. The entire journey from Mexico consumes only six hours, and the dust is the sole drawback to this delightful trip. But even this discomfort is largely mitigated by passing occasionally through valleys in a high state of cultivation, where the mind is constantly diverted by new scenes and objects of interest. Among them arc the peculiar corn-cribs and hay-ricks, the latter built in imitation of churches, with cross, column, and spire in the distance, almost rivaling those of stone and adobe. When at last Puebla is reached, the mind is fully prepared to take in all things new and strange. PUEBLA. CIIOLULA, SAN MIGUEL SESMA, AND ORIZABA. 443 A fluent English-speaking German — interpreter for the hotel — assured us that the " Casa de las Diligencias " was the best house, and we soon found ourselves in a grand old convent, with corridors lined with gorgeously blooming plants, while the cleanly spread tables reminded us that we had left Mexico without breakfast. The camarista, with long black hair a la pompadour, keen, beady eyes and rigid lips, presented himself to register us in a book and enroll us on the big bulletin. We ordered separate rooms, and, gathering up our luggage, he preceded us and placed all our chattels in one apartment. " But the other room — where is it ? " I asked. " You have two beds," he answered. " Well, but we also want two rooms," I rejoined. Snapping his eyes, and drawing his lips more closely than ever, he mut- tered in a long-drawn half whisper: "Dos cuartos y ciiatro camas por das sefwritas Americaiias solitas ! ]'algainc Dios ! " (" Two rooms and four beds for two senoritas alone ! ") Then, letting his voice fall still lower, he continued : " Que cosa ciiriosa ! " (" What a curious thing ! ") This man of business had evidently made up his mind that one room with two beds was the proper thing for dos scfioritas A mericanas solitas. The point of difference being duly settled by the administrador, we were gratified to find in our rooms no printed rules, and that he with the pompadoured hair would have no occasion to announce, like the other camaristas, '' Falta Jabon y cerillos" as both soap and matches were bountifully supplied. It was the carnival season ; and from our windows we had views of ludicrous rag-tag processions parading up and down, grotesque enough to call forth smiles from a Niobe. Before my window, in a pretty house with red-tiled front, I saw a seflorita, from behind a gay CORN-CRIH. 444 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. awning, wave her dainty fingers at her lover on the sidewalk, where he stood at least four hours daily. Puebla has a population of one hundred thousand, and is one of the handsomest and best-built cities on the American continent, being constructed of gray granite. It is the City of Churches — perhaps more emphatically so than many others that have received the name. The schools, colleges, and public library are upon a grand scale. Public benefactions of the highest order are numerous — hospitals for chil- dren, the deaf, dumb, and blind, for men and for women. Of the CASA DE MATERNIDAU. latter, the Casa de Matcriiidad (Maternity Hospital), the newest and handsomest, was founded by a private citizen, who left in his will the sum of $200,000 with which to build and furnish it. The material is red brick and white stone in alternate layers, and the spacious interior is exquisitely neat and orderly. Every possible comfort and convenience that could be afforded in any like institution anywhere, is here liberally dispensed. Puebla enjoys, and justly so, the reputation of being the most cleanly of all Mexican cities. The streets, like those of Mexico, run at right angles— north and south, east and west — and are swept every PUEBLA, Clio LU LA, SAN MIGUEL SESMA, AND ORIZABA. 445 morning; the sidewalks are well paved, and all have their individual sub-sewers. They are admirably drained by a slight incline towards the middle, and at every corner there is a stone bridge — a guarantee against overflow and in the rainy season the consequent inconveni- ence to pedestrians. The elevation above sea level is more tlian seven thousand feet, but the climate is mild, and being free from dampness, is far more desirable than at Mexico. Like every other Mexican city, Puebla has a large share of histor- ical associations. Founded by the Spaniards in 1531, it has since that time figured conspicuously in the stirring scenes which have occurred in the country. One of the most desperate encounters that took place between the French and Mexicans was here, and in commemora- tion of this event has originated one of the greatest national festivals, bearing the name of Cinco de Mayo (5th of May). This city has been called the Lov\eII of Mexico. Manufactories of cotton, blankets, crockery, tiles, glass, thread, soap, matches, and hats abound. Some of the latter were snowy white with silver trimmings, the prettiest I ever saw, and in such numbers that every bare head might have been covered — which I regret to say was not the case. Puebla is called the " City of the Angels." The tradition runs that, in the building of the cathedral, when the artisans ceased from their labors at the close of the day, the angels continued the work at night. This building is the central architectural feature of the city. Bishop Foster, on his visit there, thus wrote of it to The Christian Advocate : "The cathedral itself is surpassingly grand in every respect, quite equal to its better-known and more famous rival in the national capi- tal, and must take rank among the first twenty cathedrals in the world. It is more chaste than, and quite as costly as, its great com- petitor. Its chapels and shrines, arranged along its transepts, are rich in pictures, images, and adornments. Its high altar is of amazing proportions, symmetry and elegance ; filling the vast and high-arched nave, it is most impressive. The choir, occupying the portion of the nave in front, is of elaborate finish in carvings and costly lattices. The 446 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. vast columns and capitals are of Mexican marble, as are all the bases of the altars throughout. Everywhere the precious stones of Mexico rrive beauty and substantial worth to the interior of the vast pile. . . . It comes down to us from an age which it is probable will not repeat itself. . . . The exterior is not comparable to the interior, though of vast and impressive appearance, and of the universal mix- ture of Spanish and Moorish architecture, built of hewn granite, and swelling grandly above the surrounding structures." One who appreciates the ancient in architecture will find ample STREET IN rUERLA. scope for the gratification of his taste in Mexico. Wonderful masses of stone are reared with a grand and impressive simplicity, and retain their interest even when stripped by time, change, and decay of all their once florid and gorgeous ornamentation. In the last stage they are pathetic and venerable. In one of our rambles we came suddenly on a convent through which the street had been cut, and high up in the niches and lecesscs we saw life-sized statues and frescoes of great beauty. We visited churches and convents, many of which are devoted to hospitals and other secular ])urposes. At the home of the Methodist missionary, in the old building of the Inquisition, we saw niches built PUEBLA, CIIOLULA, SAN MIGUEL SESMA, AND ORIZAB \. 447 like chimneys into the walls. It was horrifying to think that these were the identical places where once unhappy victims were immured in living tombs. A better view is here obtained of Popocatepetl and Iztaccihuatl than at Mexico, the crater of the former being plainly visible without glasses, while the position of his snow-capped sleeping companion is reversed. At Puebla we have her side view from the feet, while at Mexico the head is toward the city. Pueblanas enjoy the luxury of ice brought daily from these mount- ains. The ever-faithful Indian has his own unique method of trans- portation, and constitutes himself the ice-wagon. He first wraps the ice in straw, and then, to avoid the disagreeable results of leakage, he fastens underneath the cargo large leaves of maguey, which form a conduit. Thus comfortably equipped, these tireless creatures trot the whole thirty-six miles, between the hours of two and ten in the morn- ing, receiving for their pnins and trouble one dollar! It was a gala day in Puebla. The venders of fruit, fancy wares, flowers, and vegetables had assembled from all quarters, in the market. A whole family from Cholula were there — the man and his wife sell- ing vegetables. As they had bright faces, we stopped to converse with them. The usual curious crowd gathered about us, intent upon hearing every word. Questions being in order, I asked the Cholulan what he knew of the Conquest. " Only what my forefathers have told me," he replied. "Tell me," I said, "what they told you." He began at once, and related the entire history without a break, as handed down to him, not forgetting to dwell upon the virtues and graces of Dona Maiina. " What do you think of Cortez?" I asked. "When he came, we were all in darkness" — shutting his eyes to suit the words ; but he brought us la lus de la Santa Cruz — the light of the holy cross. Here I saw the pretty brown-skinned Indian women of San Pablo, a village in close pro.ximity to the city. Their dresses were of uncut manta, washed until snowy white. Kiltings began at the sides, falling ^8 FACE TO FACE Wmi THE MEXICANS. in classic folds, and ceasing near the front in a broad plain space. There was no fullness in the back, which seemed to add to their ease of movement. A broad, hand-wrought, bright-colored sash, tied at the side, held the skirt in place. The chemise had a deep-pointed yoke, elaborately embroidered with various-colored beads. They wore on their heads a kind of hood, also of manta, which partly con- cealed their shoulders, but left in ease and freedom their exquisitely molded arms. With hair hanging far below the waist, in full braided plaits, lips and cheeks of cherry-red, eyes softly glowing, and white teeth shining, the whole twenty that we saw would have made a gor- geous picture, but my efforts to procure even one portrait were un- availing, owing to their inherited prejudices. As they passed before us in close Indian file, with hardly a hair's-breadth space between them, all stepping as lightly as sylphs, under their burdens of fruits and vegetables, each one spoke to me, and in answer to my inquiries, gave me a kindly " adios, niiia." As but little is known to the outside world of the vast resources of the state and city of Puebla, I append the translation of a letter on this subject to El Diario del Hogar, a paper published at the capital : " Excepting the capital of the republic, Puebla is the city which has most railroad stations, there being at present six, ample and well built — namely, the Mexican ; that of the line of Izucorde Matamorqs; that of the Texmelucan line : that called San Marcos ; that of the Carboniferous Zone ; and the Urbano, or city line. In its neighbor- hood the city has coal on the ranches of Santa Barbara; it has the inexhaustible quarry on the hill of Guadalupe, from which have come the pavements, houses, palaces, churclies, and other great or large edifices in adjacent towns. This stone is dark and of a very fine grain. Further, Puebla has a quarry on the hill of Loreto, from which is taken a soft stone called xalncnen, used in building. There is the kaolin which supplies the factories of Puebla, where are manu- factured the tiles that were known as talancra. There is a very fine clay for red earthenware and brick, which supplies the potteries in the suburb of La Luz, and the eighty-nine kilns for making the PCEBLA, C//OLULA, SAX MIGUEL SESMA, AND ORIZABA. 449 Roblano brick, which is known to have the consistency of stone, and the greater part of the plain on which the city is built is of a calca- reous nature. There is abundance of chalk, or marl, for making lime, and this is manufactured in more than sixty kilns which run the year long. There is also another quarry at a league's distance, whence comes in great abundance the stone called chiliica in the capital. From the river Tetlaxcuafar, which traverses the city, and from the full-flowing Atoyac, half a league away, is taken gravel in abundance, and divers sorts of sand for building purposes. Three leagues off plenty of iron is found and a large foundry is kept running, there being others for bronze in Puebla. The neighboring mountains of Ualintze, of Tepenene and Tepozuchitl furnish the town with wood and some charcoal. The city has sweet water and sulphur water, and sundry lit- tle streams which all the year nourish the farming and gardening lands. " Besides these elements, all of which it seems almost an exaggera- tion to attribute to so restricted a territory, we must mention that its easy means of communication find at a distance of seven leagues the mountains of Tecali and Tepeaca, which consist entirely of translu- cent marble, fine and vari-colored, which is called ' Mexican onyx,' as well as other solid marbles used for pavements. These mountains of marble vvould suffice to build a hundred cities of the size of Lon- don, Paris, Pekin, Vienna, or New York, without including in the cal- culation the mountains of transparent marble of Tecuantitlan, in the district of Acatlan, whose territory covers seventy square leagues of stone-fields of divers marbles. The city of Puebla, instead of being built of dark granite, might consist of buildings of transparent mar- ble — a city unique on the continent : it certainly has the material near at hand. " Brief reference might be made to the resources of Puebla which may be made available at reasonable rates, by means of the easy modes of transport. The range of coal of the district of Acatlan commences at Tefeji de Rodriguez and ends at the Pacific shore in the State of Guerrero, spreading over the State of Oaxaca until it reaches Tehuantepec. To the north of the State extensive fields of 450 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. coal in the district of Alatriste and that of Noreste los de Tezintlan. Native cjuicksilvcr is plentiful in the districts of Atlixco and iMata- moros, and gold and silver mines are worked clandestinely. In the districts of Tecali and Chiantla lead abounds of a high grade. In Chiantla and Acatlan are iron mines, worked only on a small scale. In the district of Chalchicomula exist abandoned mines of gold and silver, the chief one being called ' La Preciosa.' In the district of San Juan de los Llanos is the famous ' Hucha,' now abandoned, and the ' Cristo.' In Tetla de Ocampo are those gold placers which formerly gave the town the surname of ' The Golden.' In the same district is the tract of kaolin wiiich gives life to the manufactory of porcelain or stoneware called ' cuayuca.' In the district of Zacatlan one of the cities furnishes abundance of quicksilver, and another rock crystal ; beyond Ahuacatlan there is a mountain, conical in shape, known as Zitlala, which in the Nalmail tongue means ' star,' this name having been bestowed by the natives by virtue of its brilliancy, like a sparkling star, in the rays of the rising and the setting sun. This is simply one great rock crystal, whose tiniest fragments resem- ble diamonds. In the district of Huactunango are various mines of gold, silver, and iron, which no one has engaged to work, and in Tefiji are three crags where emeralds are found, but wliich the natives of the Zapoteco race have concealed from the eye of the explorer. As a specimen of these emeralds, in a little town in the district of Cho- lula existed one of these gems, three-quarters of a Spanish yard in length, which served as the ara, or consecrated stone, on the altar of the cliurch. Maximilian had it in his hands, and offered for it $i,OCO,ooo, which the Indians would not accept. Later, an armed force went to attack the town, to capture this gem, which was worth more than $2,ocx),ooo, but they were repulsed. In consequence of this attempt, the Indians concluded to lose the emerald by design, to protect it from the covetous. However, that remarkable treasure found its way into the hands of the wily Jesuits. They, in order to secure it, promised eternal salvation to the dead, the living, and the as yet unborn, in the vicinity of that town, that they might obtain PUEBLA, CHOLULA, SAN MIGUEL SESMA. AND ORIZABA. 453 the stone and cut it in portions as they have done, to sell it piece- meal beyond the seas. This is historical : it were better the neigh- bors of the town had received their $1,000,000 for the jewel, rather than only the hope of eternal glory for the past, the present and the future crimes among them. An emerald of immense value suffered Hell for those who have sinned and who shall sin, giving them a key to open the doors of Heaven eternally at their will. " In the district of Chalchimula there are also marbles, and in A!a- triste there are great hot springs superior to those of the capital of Puebla, and equal probably to those of Aguascalientes and of Atoto- nilco el Grande, of the State of Hidalgo. " Treating of the vegetable kingdom, the districts of Huachinango, Zacatlan, Tetela, Zacapoatla, Tlalauqui, and Tezuitlan produce the finest woods in the world, such as the varieties of cedar, ebony, the mahogany, zapatillo, the oyametl, pine, ocotl, juniperus sabina, oak, madrono, bamboo, a}'acohuite, liquidambar. India-rubber tree, and that which yields the gum chitle, and, above all woods, the writing- tree, whose veins of color upon a yellowish ground form monograms, flourished letters, abbreviated words, and a thousand capricious figures and profiles. This wood has been adjudged, at the Expositions of Vienna, Paris, and Philadelphia, the finest from the five continents. In the districts of Acatlan, Chiuatla, and Matamoros, belonging to this State, to the southward, are produced the aloe, silk-cotton tree, log- wood, tamarind, huizaclia (a species of acacia), mczqidt, vcncnillo, tlal- huate, huaje, and other woods with Mexican names, whose qualities and duration leave nothing to be desired. Some of the trees produce the most exquisitely fragrant gums, known as myrrh, incense, and co- pat/e, besides the rich essence of the aloe. The yellow dye known as Zacatlaxcatl, so highly prized in China, Cochin-China.Tartary, and Ja- pan, is abundantly produced in these districts and in Tecamachalco andTelmacan. The palm which is used for mats and common hats is produced in the districts of Tepip, Tepeaca, TeCali and Tehuacan ; and in the last named, cactus of the most extraordinary dimensions, as well as the vine from which is made a wine superior to that of Spain and 29 454 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICAAS. Italy. In the district of Tlatlauquitepec is raised the famous ramie, or vegetable silk, which has enriched and given a name to Asiatic India. This plant was with difficulty brought to France and accli- mated in Provence, but without success as an industrw It was then brought to Louisiana in the United States, and, although acclimated, it was never successfully treated by mechanical means, notwithstanding American effort. The magistrate of the Supreme Court of Mexico, Licentiate Mariano Zavala, brought from Louisiana a small lot of ramie, which was planted and successfully developed in the village of San Angel ; but his attention did not go beyond curiosity. One day he was visited by his friend, D. Manuel Ortega y Garcia, of the dis- trict of Tlatlauqui, and Zavala presented him with the plants, si.K in number, telling him the mode of cultivating them. Ortega y Garcia went to the little village and transplanted the plants with brilliant success. In two years his plantations contained forty thousand plants two and three meters in height, although the plant obtains no greater height than a meter and a half in Asia. Ortega knew that the treat- ment of ramie was impracticable by the mechanical means employed in Europe and America ; therefore he studied chemical means for that purpose, and after much endeavor, he succeeded in separating the fiber and presenting to the Minister of the Interior fine skeins, dyed in three colors, three meters and a half in length, which are now dis- played spread over statues in the salon of the Minister Riva Palacio and in the house of the venerable editor, Don Ygnacio Complido, who also received a gift of several skeins. The ramie propagates prodi- giously in portions of our warm, moist climate, as in Cordoba, Tlat- lauqui, Cuetzala, and Huachinango. When the plant is developed, the sprouts bearing four or five leaves are removed and planted a Spanish yard apart, with surety of the success of the new plantation. The ramie is little sensitive to changes in temperature, and it neither breeds nor nourishes worms or caterpillars; neither gives life to mil- dew or parasitic growth. Each plant produces from §1.75 to $2.25 worth of fiber, the cost of its cultivation amounting to six cents. Thus the profit is greater than from tobacco, coffee, cacao, or cotton : more- PUEBLA, CNOLULA, SAA' MIGUEL SESMA, AND ORIZABA. 455 ovei, from tlie refuse fiber is manufactured fine Chinese paper, and coarse wrapping-paper. "The State of Puebla has a variety of climates, from that which is oppressively hot to one cloudy and cold. In some northern dis- tricts are produced cotton, tobacco, vanilla, coffee, rice, sugar cane, and all the fruits of tlie cold zones and the hot ; in the southern dis- tricts the fruits of the hot zones, cotton, tea, cofYec, and the Mexican agave of the species oyanicc, which produces the inezcal liquor. The best sugar plantations are in the south, and they produce molasses, aguardientes, and sugar of various grades. In this zone are the im- mense grazing lands of cattle, goats, sheep, and horses; the salt mines of Chiautla, Chinantla, and Piaxtla, and the purgative-salt of Chietla. In Atli.xco are produced pease, rice, corn, beans, chile pepper, barley, benne-seed, and some wheat. The districts of the north yield the same products, excepting the wheat, the salt mines and the grazing on a large scale; in exchange, Zacatlan produces apple-brandy superior to the Spanish Catalan, and delicious wines from the orange, quince, and blackberry. In the central districts grows the best wheat raised in eastern Mexico, all the fruit and grain of cold climates, the miilato citilc, whence comes a soda refined here, and another which is treated in France ; also wool and bristles. " The flora of this State is abundant and varied, as known to the sci- entific commission exploring the territory, and its products would supply the perfumeries and drug-shops of the world. " The races and classes inhabiting Puebla are as follows: The His- pano-American, which is the principal one ; the Aztec, the Chichi- meca, the Tatonavue, the Cuatocomaque, the Tepounga, and the Miz- teca, whose tongues and dialects to-day, as well as a great part of their customs, are of the primitive people. The capitals of the most popu- lous and cultivated districts outside the State capital are: Tehuacan, preeminent in agriculture and commerce ; Teziutlan, under the same conditions, where live some capitalists, almost millionaires. The city of Chalchicomula is agricultural and industrial, in the line of mills. At- lixco and Matamoros are beautiful, rich, and productive of utensils. 45^ FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. Zacatlan, agricultural and industrial in the branch of liquors, and Tecamachalco, given to agriculture and milling. The garden spots of the north are : Zacatlan, with its natural beauty, its fair, lovely race, and distinguished families ; Teziutlan, with the panoramas its territo- ries offer; its people white and elegant, and the culture of its sons; Zacapoaxtla, with its florid vegetation, its agreeable, fine, mixed race, and the inclination of its sons toward literature, distinguished above all the people of the State; the inhabitants of Tetela de Ocanepo, whose people are clever and unpretentious — every one here can read and write, understands domestic history, general geography, geometry, numbers, the use of arms, and constitutional rights. In the towns forming the district of Tetela there is no Roman Catholic guild, nor is there need of a police judge, because here occur no robberies, no homi- cides, no quarrels, no impositions, no adulteries, nothing of crime or disorder. The Tetelanos are the Lacedemonians of the State of Puebla. The gardens of the south are : Picturesque Atlixco, watered by a hundred streams of crystal flood, with its orchards of varied fruits, its thickets of mixed flowers of loveliest hue, anil withal a cultured society; Izricar of Matamoros, traversed by an overflowing stream like Atlixco, with its proud buildings, its lovely brown women, its ardent temperament, its fertile meadows, and its valuable sugar plantations, which bring enormous rental to their owners; Acatlan, land of fire, with its forward meadows, its fruitful ground-plots, its sugar- mills ; its cane-fields, and its active commerce with the Pacific coast." Tram-cars, built in New York, run in all directions from the city, some extending from ten to fifty miles, to villages, sugar haciendas, and factories. To Cholula it is but seven miles over the lovely green valley of Puebla, and in making the trip, we constantly enjoyed fresh and charming views. These included an ancient aqueduct and an old Spanish bridge across the river Atoyac, which affords water-power for factories and foundries. We see the great pyramid of Cholula for miles before reaching it — a grand and imposing monument to the aboriginal builders ! That these ready-handed Indian workers should have erected a mountain, rUEBLA, CHOLULA, SAK MIGUhL SESMA, AND ORIZABA. 457 without beasts of burden or implements of any kind, and by passing the brick from hand to hand, surpasses the calculations of all scien- tists. It is built of adobe bricks of irregular size, from sixteen to twenty- three inches in length. The erection of this stupendous structure could never have been imposed upon freemen, and must have been the work of slaves or prisoners of war. According to Prescott, the base covers about forty-four acres — other authorities say sixty — I PVRAMCD OF CHOIAM A. while Baron Humboldt suggests a comparison with "a square four times greater than the Place Vendome in Paris, covered with layers of brick, rising to twice the elevation of the Louvre." Tlie platform on the summit is more than an acre in extent. The sides of the mound face the cardinal points; but the regular- ity of its outlines has been broken and defaced by time, and the whole surface is covered with the dirt and vegetable growth of ages. From this circumstance many have supposed that the elevation was not artificial, at least as regards its interior ; but so far as explorations 45^ FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. have been made, there is no reason to doubt that it is entirely a work of art. In addition to trees and shrubs covered with vines and mosses, lovel)' wild flowers of delightful fragrance abound everywhere. We gathered our hands full, and pressed them on the spot as souvenirs of the Pyramid of Cholula. Relic venders in rags followed us around with a unique collection of cross-bones, pottery, idolos, and the cus- tomary bric-k-brac. We were ready purchasers, being willing to believe almost anything on this historic and pre-historic ground. Much speculation has arisen as to the object in rearing so stupen- dous a work, whether constructed for religious use, or as a place of sepulture for kings and notables. A recent theory is, that it was erected for defense, as a place of refuge for an agricultural popula- tion otherwise unprotected. According to Humboldt, " In its present state (and we are igno- rant of its original height), its perpendicular proportion is to its base as 8 to 1, while in the three great pyramids of Gizeh, the proportion is found to be i^ to l^'^ to i ; or nearly as 8 to 5." A table made by Baron Humboldt, relating to the proportions of various pyramids, is as follows: Pyramids Built of .Stone. Cheops. Feet. Height 448 Base 72S Pyramids of Brick. One of five stories in Egypt near Sakliarali, height, 150 feet; base, 2Io feet. Of Four Stofifs in Mi'xico. Teotihuacan. Cholula. Feet. Feet. Height 171 172 Base 645 1355 Humboldt continues: "The inhabitants of Anahuac apparently designed giving the Pyramid of Cholula the same height, and double Cephren. MVCERINUS. Feet. Feet. 398 162 655 5 So PUEBLA, CHOLULA, SAN MIGUEL SESMA, AND ORIZABA. 459 the base of the pyramid of Teotihuacan. The Pyramid of Asychis, the largest known of the Egyptians, lias a base of 800 feet, and is, like that of Cholula, built of brick. The Cathedral of Strasbourg is eight feet, and the cross of St. Peter's at Rome forty-one feet, lower than the top of the Pyramid of Cheops. " Pyramids exist throughout Mexico — in the forests of Papantla, at a short distance above the level of the sea ; on the plains of Cholula EL CASTILLO, OR " HILL OF FLOWERS." and of Teotihuacan, at an elevation which exceeds those of the passes of the Alps. " In the most widely different nations and in climates the most dif- ferent, man seems to have adopted the same style of construction, the same ornaments, the same customs, and to have placed himself under the government of the same political institutions." A contemplation of this pyramid naturally led us to think of those other wondrous structures, Papantla, Misantla, and Mapilca, erected by the Totonacs, and situated between Jalapa and the Gulf coast ; and also Xochicalco, Uxmal, Palenque, and others in other parts of the republic. 460 FACE TO FACE WITH THE iMEXlCANi^. But little is known about the famous and ancient ruins bearing the poetical name of Xochicalco, or " Hill of Flowers." This ignorance is probably due to its isolated and rather inaccessible position. The cerro (hill) is three hundred feet in height, and its summit reached by five winding stone stairways. Crowning the eminence is the Castillo, a building measuring sixty- four by fifty-eight feet. This structure is composed of great blocks of porphyry, held together without the aid of mortar, and covered over with strange and grotesque sculpturings of men, beasts and fishes. The origin of this unique and wonderful structure is shrouded in mystery. Who were the builders, and for what purpose it was built, none can tell. As a writer remarks, " It has outlasted both history and memory." When we consider that the immense blocks of stone were probably all brought from great distances and borne up the hill by what means the imagination cannot conceive of, we are struck with amazement at the magnitude of the undertaking and the patience of the builders. Entirely without mechanical appliances, how they accomplished the feat of transporting and placing those huge stones, fills us with a wonder only equaled by a contemplation of its sister enterprise, the pyramids of Egypt. The pyramid of Papantla is built in six stories, and a great stairway of fifty-seven steps leads to the top, which is flat. Strange shapes of serpents and alligators are carved in relief over the sides. As these " peculiar people " so frequently planned their structures with some mysterious regard to " the times and seasons " and to the heavenly bodies, it is thought by some that the three hundred and sixty-six niches in the walls of this temple bore some connection with the ancient Toltec calendar. But to return to Cholula. The deity worshiped by the ancient Cholulans was more peaceful and less bloodthirsty than Huit::ilopotchli, the terrible and warlike god cf the Aztecs. He was known as "god of the air," Quctzalcoatl, and in his hands was intrusted everything relating to agriculture and the arts. So happy was his reign that it PUEBLA, CHOLUIA, SAN MIGUEL SESJ/.4. AND ORIZABA. 463 became known as the Golden Age. " Under him the earth teemed with fruits and flowers without the labor of culture. An ear of In- dian corn was as much as a man could carry. The cotton, as it grew, took of its own accord the rich dyes of human art. The air was filled with into.xicating perfumes and the sweet melody of birds." The great pyramid or temple of Cholula was said to have been erected in his honor; and if a grander monument exists, made of earthly material by human hands, history has not recorded it. From the apex of this colossal structure we gazed on the open plain of Cholula, and toward Tlaxcala, the " Land of Bread," whose hardy inhabitants, having first been defeated, became the fast and faithful friends and allies of Cortez. In the end this proved to be the key to Mexico. After the conquest, as an acknowledgment of their uniform good faith, the Tlaxcalans were exempted from servitude. The little band of Spaniards, numbering only four hundred and fifty, accompanied by six thousand allies, marched to Cholula, which then had a population of two hundred thousand. They were hos- pitably received and supplied with provisions. But soon Dofia Marina, the faithful interpreter of Cortez, discovered a plot for their destruc- tion. Cortez assembled the caciques, acquainted them with his knowl- edge of their treachery, and demanded an escort on his way to Mex- ico. The next day thousands were assembled in his quarters, when, at a signal, the Spaniards attacked them and at least three thousand were slain. The natives trembled at the prowess and vengeance of the " white gods." Cholula is now a mere village. Its four hundred pagan towers have long been demolished, but from the eminence where we stood I counted twenty spires and crosses on the Christian temples of the ad- jacent Indian hamlets. The imagination may find full scope in contemplating this grand scene. Looking northward stands the mountain Malinche — the name given to Cortez by the Indians — brown and sere in the distance, on whose rugged and massive sides not a plant grows nor a flower blooms to break the monotony of its awful self. Popocatapetl, Iztaccihuatl, 464 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. and Orizaba stand guard over the enchanted valley, their snow-white lops vying in crystal whiteness with the fleecy clouds that encircle them, while the calm, fleckless vault around and above tempers the grandeur of the view, and soothes the spirit into sweet poetic seren- ity. We turn from it in silence, with feelings of reluctance and regret. Returning at sunset, we had a new source of diversion in a lively conversation with two seiioritas and their mother. They gave us their names and the number of their street, informing us that there we would " find our house." Despite its many advantages, I was surprised to find so few Eng- lish-speaking people at Puebla. But, strictly conservative as it is, we traveled about, sketching and making notes as freely as inclination led, meeting only kindness and courtesy from all classes. In this connection a pleasing little incident occurred further indica- tive of the natural kind-heartedness of the people. We had gone there quite alone and unattended, not taking, as we generally did, letters of introduction, preferring to travel incog. Walking on the street, I became suddenly ill, and sought relief in a neighboring drug- store. The proprietor insisted on my remaining for some time, giving me several doses of medicine, \v'hich were efficacious. On leaving, he handed me a prescription and a bottle of the medicine, and positively refused all compensaticn. " No," he said, "you ladies are strangers here, and alone; you shall not pay me anything." We left with regret, which was only counterbalanced by pleasur- able anticipations in fulfilling a promise to visit Madame de Iturbide at her country-seat near San Miguel Sesma. At Apizaco we were met by Don Augustin, her son, who had come from the capital to escort us to the hacienda, distant five miles from the station of Esperanza. The carriage was in waiting, and soon the spirited team was hurrying us along over the plains. Never before had I seen the Mexican aloe or maguey in such magnificence. Its "clustering pyramids of flowers, towering above their dark coronals of leaves," lined the drive on either side, to the very door. Here we met a royal welcome from our distinguished countrywoman. Sur- PUEBLA, CHOLULA, SAN MIGUEL SESMA, AND ORIZABA. 465 rounded by her numerous retainers, we could easily imagine ourselves in a feudal castle of the middle ages. The illusion was deepened on seeing her two little Indian attendants, whom she had taken from the common herd and dressed as haccudados, in buckskin suits and sil- ver buttons. I was not surprised at their satisfaction in their finery when Madame Iturbide assured me that, save the possibility of a sin- gle garment, these were their first clothes. These little brown-skinned monkeys were constantly bobbing in and out — with " si, nifia " between each breath — bowing, and waiting on us with as much zeal as if on them devolved the sole dispensing of the honors and hospitalities of the mansion. In the late evening we promenaded on the azotca while our host- ess regaled us with delightful reminiscences of her life in Me.xico. We inspected with the prince the whole interior working of the hacienda — visited the cows, the horses, and the finest specimens of swine I ever saw, so immense that they almost rivaled the cows. Madame Iturbide told us that, in accordance with a long-estab- lished custom, the peons would sing at half-past four o'clock in the morning. Promptly at the hour, the rccamarara awoke us to hear the song. The place of assembling was near the family residence. The first that came, turning his face to the east, began singing, and continued until all had arrived, when they chanted in chorus, The Alabado ; or, Song ov Praise to the Morning. " Praised and uplifted (or upheld) And also glorified Be the divine sacrament ! Give us to-day sustenance ! Give us Thy divine grace ! And succor us, O Lord ! In the work of the day. And thou, Mother of the Word, Immaculate and pure conception, I beseech. thee from my heart Not to forsake me, Mother mine." 466 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. Tlie music made a deep impression on my sensibilities. At times it seemed like the gentlest breathings from a reed instrument; then it would mellow down to mere sighing sounds, like whisperings from an yEolian harp. It was mournful, pathetic, imploring, and was the lan- guage of the soul in quaint, almost unearthly sounds. These weird strains were wafted to my ear on the calm morning air, and the invo- cation inspired me with the same sad and dependent thoughts and feelings so deeply rooted in the hearts of the dusky chanters of the dirge-like melody. Mrs. Helen Hunt Jackson, in Raiiiona, makes mention of the observance of this beautiful custom by the Mexicans in the early days of California. We were shown that remarkable grass known as raiz zacaton, from which whisk-brooms and stout brushes for heavier uses are manufac- tured. The top is a luxuriant green, several inches in height, but no use is made of it, only the root being profitable. The peons employed to gather this fibrous substance call to their aid powerful mechan- ical appliances to remove it from the soil, so deep does it e.xtend below the surface, and so tough are its myriad tendrils. It is exported all over the world and constitutes one of the most important products of the haciendas in this section of the country. This hacienda, like all others, has its adiiiinistrador, and an impor- tant office is his. While in many respects his duties are similar to those of an overseer, yet he differs very materially from that function- ary. In the present instance the young gentleman who fills this posi- tion is a college graduate, speaking several languages, a bachelor of arts, and a justice of the peace. His accomplishments do not in the least militate against his efficiency as adininistrador , for he manages the estate most admirably, enjoying the utmost confidence of the family. He preferred his assured salary of twelve hundred dollars a year to the uncertain returns of the practice of his profession. During this visit I obtained a better insight into the life of the peons than I had before known. From their evident contentment, I concluded that their condition was not, after all, so lamentable as I PUEBLA, CIIOLCLA, SAN MIGUEL SESMA, AXD ORIZABA. 4O7 had imagined. If they have but little of worldly goods, they are rich in a politeness which redeems defects of face or person. In meeting a superior, their great clumsy straw sombreros are quickly removed by hard, horny hands, and the words gently uttered : '^Ave Maria Santissima ! " The superior never fails to perform his part of the salutation, and touching his hat brim answers, "En gracia con- cebida" (" conceived in grace"). If they pass twenty times a day, the same rule is observed. I was amused to see the little monkeys in the house practicing the formula. A charming incident of the visit was a drive to the upper part of ■^■T^'s.-^^^^iiV^^^^^ \Y-' the hacienda, which extends along one of the spurs of Black Mountain. Don Augustin rode close beside the carriage on his beautiful Andalu- sian mare, Bcso — " Kiss." Our way for miles lay beside the primi- tive aqueduct of hewn logs which for two hundred years or more has supplied the hacienda with water from mountain springs. San Miguel Sesma is one of the oldest haciendas in that part of the republic, and extends over more than twenty square miles. The sides of the mountain are covered with pines, oaks, and a variety of other woods. At every turn we enjoyed views of sublime scenerj', and at the top six geographical heights were plainly visible — Orizaba, Popocatapetl, Iztac- cihuatl, Malinche, Black Mountain, and, in the dim distance, Perote. 4^8 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. We crossed a slight ravine, which, a rod or two below us, had, with- in a few years, deepened into a fissure of one hundred and ninety feet. To me it was almost as frightful as the Nochistongo. On descending the steep side of the mountain, the prince performed a daring feat, which exhibited his remarkable physical strength. The cochcro seemed unable to restrain the mules and carriage from rushing headlong over the precipice. Instantly, and with the unerring precision of a profes- sional ranchero, Don Augustin hurled his lasso, and deftly catching it around the step^Beso frothing and leaping — held back the wagonette all the way down. Our delightful visit ended, we pursued our journey, the prince kindly escorting us to Orizaba. A few miles from Esperanza we leave the scorching winds, blinding dust, and perpetual upheaval of power- ful column-like whirlwinds through which the cars run for some dis- tance, and come to inviting shade and refreshing breezes, as we wind and twist about the mountains in leaving the table-lands. The descent is grandly wild and beyond the power of pen to picture, and travelers who have reveled in the beauties of Old World scenery give prece- dence to this. A writer on the subject said it is '' as from earth to heaven — a little bit of Paradise." We remained on the platform to obtain an unobstructed view until our senses were dazed and giddy, as the brave little double-headed Fairlie engine pulled us safely, ap- parently on mere threads, along a lofty peak, darting through tunnels, crawling around curves, over slender bridges, at times hundreds of feet above some frightful abyss. The pretty village of Maltrata looks white and peaceful in its snug retreat at the foot of the table-lands. We are told it is twenty miles away, but directly through it is only two and a half. We purchased roses, tulipans, and other flowers of tropical growth for a mere song, from Indian venders, as well as orchids of dazzling loveliness, with their glowing yellow, pink, and red centers. Notwithstanding the apparently dangerous route of this railway, I was reliably informed that no accident had ever occurred by which lives had been lost. It was under construction for thirty years, cost PUEBLA, CHOLULA, SAN MIGUEL SESMA, AND ORIZABA. 469 thirty millions to build, and has survived no fewer than forty different managements, besides time and again losing its charter by revolu- tion ; but its completion at last attained was a great boon to the re- public. On its way to the capital it ascends seven thousand six hun- dred feet, and its length is only two hundred and sixty miles : and "this is the short and long of it." As is the case with all railways in Mexico, whether of tram or steam, there are first, second, and third class rates. From Mexico to Vera Cruz, the first-class ticket costs$i6.50 — the second class, $12.50 ; but there are no Pullmans attached, and the difference consists in having neatly padded coaches for first class, while plain chairs in com- mon coaches accommodate the less fortunate. From Maltrata the foliage and vegetation assume a more tropical appearance, but there are wanting the tangled masses of vines and luxuriant growths one naturally expects to see. The heat, however, grows more intense, and when finally we halt before the pretty sta- tion house at Orizaba, everything and everj'body seems wilted and panting under the heat. Don Augustin saw us safely to the " Hotel de las Diligencias " — a name which has a peculiar and particular at- traction for hotel proprietors all over the country. Don Augustin gave us the desired information that the hotels had retained the names of former times, when they were head-quarters of the stages. Orizaba has perhaps twent)- thousand inhabitants, and consider- able manufacturing interests. The Alameda is a quiet, shady park with an abundance of glorious flowers peculiar to the section. Among them I saw nothing grander than the sweet-scented Datura arborea — generally known as the Floripondio — hanging like snowy bells, ready for the fairies to ring; and the Tulipan vibrating in the soft breeze, like flaming banners. I had seen both of these at the capital and other points, but they are insignificant compared with those grown in the tropics. The Zocalo, the cathedral and the market — the latter always a place of interest to me— were duly inspected. But the heat was so intense, 470 FACE TO FACE WI3-H THE MEXICANS. that the great quan- titles of fruits and vegetables lay scorched and wilted under the quaint palm brellas that were no ""''a more than tissue paper ^ "V between them and the burning sun, and the venders had no desire to talk, and this languor had on us, likewise, a depressing influence. With the usual number of inii- chacliitos following with evident satisfaction all our movements, we strolled along the principal streets, across picturesque bridges, sketched and made notes by the Molino de Guadalupe, whence we caught a lovely view of a shrine of Moorish design, across crwN'^S IN THK T-^OPTCS, PUEBLA. CHOLULA, SAN MIGUEL SESMA, AND ORIZABA. 4/1 a broken aqueduct, against a setting t>f blue in the distant moun- tains. The coffee tree, with rich, dark green leaves and bright red ber- ries — resembling cranberries — grows side by side with oranges, lem- ons, bananas, the cocoa-palm and gorgeous flowers, all in tropical luxu- riance, overhanging low adobe fences. The coffee berry is not allowed to ripen on the tree, but when in the red state, the branches, laden with fruit, are cut and left for several weeks to dry in the shade. After this, women and children bark it, when it is ready for shipment. The city is walled in by mountains, and during the months of Feb- ruary, March, and April — as I was told by an old inhabitant — is vis- ited almost nightly by wind storms. According to our own experi- ence these rival the wildest hurricanes. Our rooms were on the north or front of the hotel, consequently adapted to give the wind full sweep. Sure enough, at midnight, the tropical storm came up without a note of warning — moon and stars shining brightly in a cloudless sky — but if the Furies had been let loose our terrors could not have been intensified. Panes of glass were shivered to atoms over our heads, doors were lifted from their hinges and thrown with violence to the floor ; everything movable was tossed in wild confusion, and " las dos scnoritas Amcricanas solitas " expected to find themselves in the niorning gray-headed from fright. In the midst of the awful din and hubbub of the storm the mocking-birds on the corridor added their shrill quota to the general confusion of sounds, and I was humorously reminded of the ex]ieri- ence of Mr. William Henry Bishop at Cordoba, when he spoke of their " dulcet ingenuity," and declared that a " planing-mill or a foun- dry full of trip-hammers would be a blessing in comparison." Orizaba had now lost interest to us, and at the right hour we went to the station, expecting to continue the journey to Vera Cruz and Jalapa, but hearing a rumor of yellow fever, we decided to return to the capital. Meeting Father Gribbin on his way from the coast, and fearing to 472 FACE TO FACE U ITJI THE MEXICANS. encounter another storm at the hotel, we accepted his kind invitation to the house of his friends, Mr. and Mrs. John Quinn, who reside at Mr. Braniff's factory, four miles from the city. The hospitality of our whole-souled entertainers was greatly enjoyed after our stormy experience of the night before. CHAPTER XIV. THE VIRGIN OF GUADALUPE. »^>:^ I HIS tradition," says the historian Altamirano, " as written by Don Luis Becerra Zanco about 1666, because of the simplicity of its language, and also because of its reflecting more the characteristic sweetness and softness of the Nahautal language, in which the tradition was undoubtedly orig- inally preserved, is the most au- thentic." The subject of Guadalupe has been one of such intense interest, that about sixty-one Mexican and Spanish writers have written elaborately on it. So prominent is she, that thousands of children are annually christened by her name. The tradition, as generally believed, is as follows: "At an early hour on the morning of December 9, 1531, Juan Diego, a humble Indian, who had been recently converted to the Catholic faith, was quietly pursuing his way from a town adjacent to the City of Mexico, to mass. Pausing for a moment at the foot of a mountain known as the Cerro del Tepazac, which is about three miles from the city, he was held spell bound by sweet and sonorous singing, which seemed to 474 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. proceed from a great number of birds that sang in perfect accord and harmony. " It seemed to him that the entire rocky hill above him was vibrat- ing and echoing the sweet notes of the myriad, tiny-throated warblers, and raising his eyes to that point, he beheld a beautiful rainbow, formed from the brilliant rays reflected from the center of the cloud. The Indian was held in silent wonder and admiration, but without fear he stood, contemplating in his heart the strange revelation. " Ere he had recovered from his surprise, the singing ceased, and at once there issued from the clouds a voice, soft and gentle as a woman's, calling him by name, 'Juan,' and begging him to draw near. " He hastened to climb the hill, and there he beheld in the midst of the light a most beautiful lady, whose clothing, he said, shone so brightly that the rays from it lighted up the rough cliffs of the rocks which rise from the summit of the hill until they seemed to him like precious stones, cut and made transparent ; and the leaves of the prickly pear, which are small and stubby at this point, on account of the barrenness of the place, seemed to him like clusters of fine emeralds, and their branches, trunks, and thorns like shining gold; and even' the ground of a small plane on the summit appeared to him to be of jasper, dotted with different colors. "The lady, with gentle, smiling face, spoke to him in the Mexican language, and told him that she was the Virgin Mary, the true Mother of God, and that she wished to have a temple in that place, where all those who loved her and sought her might come for comfort in their afflictions. " She commanded him to go to the palace in the City of Mexico and tell the Bishop of her desire. " The Indian threw himself upon his knees and promised to obey her commands. According to promise, he went directly to the house of the Bishop, to which he gained admittance only after great trouble and delay. Being at last in the presence of his lordship, he fell upon his knees and delivered his message. " The Bishop was much astonished at the communication, and THE VIRGIX OF GUADALUPE. 475 judging it to be a dream or an imagination of the Indian, he sent him away, telling him to return in a tew days, after he had had more time to consider it. "Juan Diego, sad and disheartened, returned on the same day as the sun was setting. When he reached the hill, he found the Vn-gin again awaiting him. " She repeated her commands, and the Indian promised to return on the following day. " He kept his promise, and the Bishop told him to go back to the Virgin and ask for some sign, and sent with him a servant. "When they reached the hill, the Virgin was there awaiting him. She still repeated her commands, and he then went home, finding one of his uncles dangerous!)' ill. They sent him to the city for a priest to deliver extreme unction. He thought to avoid the Virgin by passing at the foot of the hill, and what was his surprise to find her descending the hill to meet him. "At this, the fourth apparition, she gave him the desired sign, telling him to go to the rugged rocks, where nothing had ever been known to grow, and there he would find fresh, sweet, Spanish roses, covered with dew. " The Indian did as he was bid, and found the roses as she had promised. He filled his blanket with them and took them to the Bishop. "There in the presence of his worship and' numerous attend- ants, he threw the roses on the floor, and as the blanket unfolded, they beheld with astonishment the image of the Virgin imprinted upon it. " They then became convinced that the apparitions were genuine, and set about to erect the church on the Ccrro del Tepazac, where the vision had appeared." The tiluia, or blanket, which received the marvelous imprint of the Virgin, is still preserved sacredly in the Cathedral of Guadalupe, and visitors, by paying a small fee to the sacristan, may see it. CHAPTER XV. AMONG THE CHILDREN. HE following i.« one of the numerous stories related by Mexican mothers to their children, and one which Seiiora Calderon often told her little son, Pepito, in my presence: THE STORY OF GAITAGILENO. Once there lived a king, who had a very beautiful wife. The king went off to a dreadful and tedious war, and on his return, the queen's bosom friend told him many false and ma- licious stories of the queen's unbecoming conduct during his absence. Without waiting to have an explanation with his wife, or endeav- oring to ascertain the truthfulness of the woman's assertions, he de- termined to rid himself of her as quickly as possible. The queen never suspected the cause of her husband's displeasure, nor that her bosom friend had been the cause of her sudden misfor- tune. One day, without warning, the king caused her to be placed in a close carriage, and accompanied by her mother, he proceeded with them, over a rough and uninhabited country, to a famous but isolated castle. On arriving there, the great doors sprang open as if by magic, the carriage drove in, and then the doors clanged together again, with such fcrce and fury as to startle the queen, who had no idea that she was to be thus imprisoned ; for when those great portals closed in tliat manner, no human voice or power, save that of the king, could cause them to open. AMONG THE CHILDREN. 477 Before going to the castle, the king had taken the precaution to have the great cellars filled with every kind of edible, — corn, rice, frijoks, wine, cheese, ham, — and also huge chicken-coops, filled with fine fat chickens. Here, after seeing that the two women could not suffer for want of food, he left them and returned to his own palace. In the course of time, a son was born to the queen, whom she named Gaitagileno ; and day by day he grew more sprightly and beautiful ; and it was soon made clear to the mother and grandmother that he was a boy of remarkable intellectual strength. But ere long, like the birds, he wanted his liberty, and could not believe that the world was no larger than the limits of the castle. When he attained the age of seven years, he took two ropes and, with the cunning ingenuity of a boy, lassoed the water-spouts in the court, to the house. There were other spouts that opened out upon the street. Gaitagileno climbed up on the first lasso, and from there he went over the top of the house, and then lassoed the front water-spout, from which he made his descent to the ground, and escaped from the castle. After this, he ran with all his might along the highways and coun- try roads, asking every one he met if he could point out to him the way to the king's palace. As might be expected, the shock was so great to his mother that she came near dying of grief for her lost boy, and so continuous was her weeping that she became blind. Gaitagileno had heard that the king was his father, so he was will- ing to risk and suffer a great deal that he might be the means of finally releasing his mother from her long imprisonment. After a perilous journey, footsore and weary, he at last reached the king's palace. He knocked violently on the door, and when it was opened to him, the servants refused to admit one so poorly dressed, for he was attired completelj' in coarse brown clothing. The doors closed on the poor boy, but he was undaunted, and again began knocking. On opening the door again, they told him the king 478 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MtXJCAAS. was not at home, but that he must tell them what he wanted, and as soon as the king returned they would make known his wishes. He told them he had heard that the king wanted to employ a sec- retary, and he had come asking the position. The king was not at home, but the queen's old friend, who had supplanted her in the king's affections, was there, and as she belonged to a family of witches, she knew it was the king's son. At that moment the king returned, and on learning the boy's er- rand, and having tested his ability as a scribe, he was so pleased with the lad that he gave him the position. The woman was much displeased at this, and at once set about try- ing to get rid of the boy, although the king still did not know the boy was his son. She pretended to be so pleased with Gaitagileno that it was the greatest desire of her heart that her sisters should know him, and at once asked for and obtained the king's permission that he should go on a visit to them. She then wrote a letter, which she gave to Gai- tagileno, telling her sisters, who were witches, who he was, and that they must be sure to bewitch him and make him suffer a great deal. He read this letter in the carriage, and as he had taken pen, ink, and paper along with him, he wrote another letter in exactly the same handwriting as the first, but telling them exactly to the contrary, and that they must show him all through their palace. They received him with kindness, and the youngest one at once offered to go with him, leading the way into the garden, where he found gorgeous flowers, grand old walks, and an exquisite fountain in which were fishes of brilliant shades swimming about unconcerned, while birds in their cages sang their sweetest songs. The stones about the fountain were black and enchanted, and the birds and fishes were princes. They went into a large hall where were the pictures of all the fam- il}', and before each there was a lighted candle. She said to Gaitagi- leno : " If you cut the faces out of these pictures you will at the same time cut the real faces of living people; and if you put out the light of any one of these candles in front of the pictures, the person will AMONG THE CHILDREN. 479 then die." She had shown him in the garden plants of immortaUty, and a tree the leaves of which would, if applied to the temples, restore the sight. When night came on, Gaitagileno waited for all in the house to be asleep, when he quietly stole into the garden. He had a magic whis- tle, with which, if he blew one way, everything would wake up ; and if another way, all would go to sleep. Having assured himself that all were asleep, he went into the hall where the pictures were, and, taking a knife, the first thing he did was to go before the face of the woman who had supplanted his mother, and said: "Infamous woman! you have been the cause of all m)- mother's sufferings." He then cut the picture, and at the same mo- ment, in the palace, the king saw a knife pass before the woman's face, and she screamed aloud, ' An invisible hand has wounded me ! " and at once expired. He then went before each of the other pictures and put out the hghts, and all the people died whom they represented. He then went to the garden, gathered some leaves from the tree of immortality, and some from the plant to restore sight, blew his whistle, and at once all the fishes and birds and stones became disen- chanted ; and great was their joy to be in their natural condition once more. They took Gaitagileno on their shoulders, strewing flowers as they went, and, accompanied by strains of sweetest music, proceeded to the king's palace singing, " Long live Gaitagileno ! " O ". entering the city, he found the whole population in deep mourning. Everywhere mourning emblems were displayed, which he ordered torn down, and red flags put up in their places. The king was angry, and desired to know why he had presumed to do this. " Because," said Gaitagileno, " I am your son, and the old woman was an infamous wretch, and has made my mother's life a tor- ment. " Come with me at once and restore her to her rightful place as queen, and release her from that awful prison." 4So FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXJCANS. jii|P'ii(riiiii|i i»ji|j,iii|iiiiii III Mih They started at once in the king's carriage, and when they reached the zaguan, t\\& boy exclaimed in a loud voice : "Mother! Mother! It is I, your long-lost son, who, with the king, your husband, have come to restore you to your rights." He embraced her, and then applied the leaves to her temples, and she opened her eyes once more to see her husband and son before her. The king fell upon his knee*; and begged to be forgiven, and they all re- turned to the palace, where they were received with great joy. Gaitagileno was loved and respected by all who knew him, and, leading a noble and worth}' life, was known as the savior of many nations. One of the many sweet lullabies I have heard the mothers sing to their children is as follows: Se fueron las Yankis al C.uaridame, Y el Yankie mas grande Se parece a Pepito. A la pasadita tra-la-ra-la-ra. Se fueron las Yankis a la LaJrillera, Y el Yankie mas grande Se parece a Elena. Y a la pasadita tra-la-ra-la-ra." " The Yankees went to Guaridame, And the biggest Yankee there Looked like Pepito. Chorus : To the pasadita, tra-la-ra-la-ra. " The Yankees went to the Ladrillera And the biggest Yankee there Looked like Elena. To the pasadila, tra-la-ra-la-ra." THE rOOD NANA Chorus . Clioriis . Chflri, AMONG THE CHILD REN. 481 The air of this ditty is extremely musical, and though the words do not suggest anything particularly soothing, yet, crooned by the low, sweet voice of the mother, it never fails to produce a quieting and soporific effect upon the most recalcitrant infant. This is as popular with the Mexican tots as " Rock-a-byc baby " or kindred melodies are with ours. Their nursery tales, too, as well as their ditties, bear an analogy to our own. The Nana is preparing the children for bed ; the little ones chatter LISTENING TO THE STORIES. and yawn alternately, and the nurse is hoping that their drowsiness will spare her this time her nightly task of story-telling. Not so, how- ever. Tucked at last in bed. with the exception of the youngest, whom she holds on her lap, one calls out: " Cuentome ! ciicniomc ! " ("Tell me a story, tell me a story! ") The others quickly chime in — " Cjientanos ! " (" Tell us a story.") '■'■ Bucno, pcro cstaii qidctos." ('' Very well, then, but you must be quiet "), she answers. Then taking in hers the baby's fingers she begins: 482 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. '' Niiia chiqiiita y bonita" ("A pretty, sweet little girl"), holding up the little finger. '• El scnor dc los aiti/los" (" The gentleman gives the ring '), hold- ing up third finger. " El tonto y loco " (" Idiotic and crazy "), holding middle finger. " El lama casuelas " (" Licks the cook-pot "), elevating forefinger. " Mata las animalas" ("Kills the little animals"). This last is accompanied by the very expressive gesture of tapping the thumb- nails together. If this charming recital fails to act as a narcotic to her little hearers, she goes on u ith : " Este era iiii rcy qicc tenia trcs liijas, Y las metio en unas hotijas y Catrape el cuento ha aeabado. " Este era iin rey que tenia fres liijas, Los vestio tie Colorado Catrape el cuento ha aeabado." (" This was a king who had three daughters, And he put them in earthen jugs — Now my story is ended. " This was a king who had three daughters, And he dressed them all in red-- Now my story is ended.") And so on to yet more blood-curdling and fascinating romances till slumber seals her listeners' eyes, and her task ceases. CONUNDRUMS. '• Por dcntro Colorado y por fucra coino salvado?" Answer: El inamey (one of the favorite fruits of the country). Trans. : "Red in- side and like bran outside? The maincy." Another: " Agua pasa por mi casa. Catc dc mi corazon. El que mc lo adivinarc dc Ic parte cl cora.':oit." Answer: "The Aguacatc" ("the vegetable butter)." Trans. : " Water passes through m}' house. Try my heart. Whoever guesses it, his heart will break." AMONG THE CHILDREN. 483 They are not unlike those pecuhar " riddles" with which the chil- dren of the Southern States were once so familiar, coming from the lips of our black "mammies." One, especially, I remember, sug- gested by my first quotation : " Throw it up green, it comes down red." Ans. : " Watermelon." The accompanying illustration is descriptive of a game in w hich Mexican children take great delight. This droll little sketch was roughly made by a young lad, a friend of mine, in describing the game to me. All Mexican children are natural artists, and some of these play-pictures are remarkably well drawn. They first draw an oval (1) and say, "This is a man's house;" then a small circle (2) near the center indicates an ob- servatory on the house. A canal (3) is next made, leading to house. Another, but larger, ellipse (4) is drawn, attached to house ; this is the wall around the man's farm. Within this wall another (5) is built which is the inclosure of his orchard. In the night 4^4 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. thieves endeavor to force an entrance into the orchard by means of ropes (6) thrown over the wall. These ropes are fastened to the ground by iron spikes (7). The man from his observatory sees the approach of tlie robbers, and hastens with his servants (8) to the rescue. Guns are fired, and a brisk fusillade (9) takes place.- — A pause at this part of the story reveals the astounding fact that the picture of a pato (duck) has been evolved during the recital of this thrilling narrative. That " boys will be boys " all the world over, and the teasing in- stinct universal among them, is demonstrated in the following dia- logue. Says one mischief-loving lad to another : ■' Quicrcs que te cuente el cuento del gallo pelon ? " (" Do you wish me to tell you the story of the bald-headed rooster?") " Si" (" yes "), answers his companion, eagerly. " Alo te digo que si, que si quieres que te euciite el cuento del gallo pelon .' " (" I did not tell you yes ; I said, do you wish me to tell you the story of the bald-headed rooster ? ") says the first boy. " Si," again answers the other, growing impatient. Again the aggravating lad repeats his question, and again his com- panion signifies his anxiety to hear the interesting tale. And so it goes on till either the story-teller tires of the amusement or the wrath of his disappointed listener brings the unchanging query to an end. This story reminds one of the abortive attempts to spell Con-stan- ti-no-ple. CHAPTER XVI. SCENES FROM MV WINDOW, THE Striking' characteristics whicli abound in all parts of Mexico are more plainly exhibited in the capi- tal itself than elsewhere. The preponderance of the full- blooded Indian is noticeable in the lower classes; high cheek- bones, coarse, straight liair, the same sidewise trot, tipping from right to left, and all pigeon-toed. The poorer classes all wear the scrape, which, owing to its brilliant coloring, adds greatly to the effect- iveness of a street scene. Many a housewife, artistically inclined, looks enviously at these beautiful wraps, and longs to drape them as curtain or portifere. Day by day, seated at my window, I watched the various groups that by some strange and happy chance seemed to fall together for my pleasure and entertainment. The number and variety of articles which are transported by both men and women are certainly noticeable to the most indifferent ob- server. Young backs are early trained and disciplined, and the boys and girls bear burdens that might stagger a burro. 31 MV WINDOW. 486 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. / 1 ( (> \\ CARRYING THE CLOTHES HOME. Clothes are taken home from the laundry in a droll manner. Men carry on their heads baskets containing the smaller articles, while sus- pended around the sides are stiffly starched, ruffled and fluted skirts, dresses and other arti- cles of feminine apparel. In the rainy season the cargador has his trousers rolled up, so that there is nothing visible of the man but a pair of long, thin, brown legs. I saw another man toiling along with an American two-horse load of corn husks on his back, held in place by ropes, the whole reaching from about a foot above his head down to his ankles, and almost closing him in, in front. Venders of charcoal step nimbly along with from twenty to twenty-five bags of this commodity strapped about them, their bodies so begrimed as to render it hard to decide whether they belong to the Aztec or African race. One obtains a glimpse of rural life in the frequent passing of herds of cattle, all without horns, and in the noisy gobbling of droves of turkeys as they are driven through the city. Halting only when their proprietor finds a purchaser, they strut through the streets of the metropolis as unconcernedly as though on their native hacienda. Life seems to glide along very pleasantly with these people. As they pass along the street, they hail each other quite unceremoniously, the lack of previous acquaintance forming no bar to a familiar chat. Groups of more than a dozen /"""^/J ' f'i '^-^ of these venders, representing as many different 4i^-^^-^v^ commodities, will often congregate together, W their forms almost concealed from view beneath their loads. Then, after a general hand-shaking, each goes his way, crying his wares. One rainy afternoon I witnessed an amusing quarrel between five Indian women. Each car- ried a child in \\i^x rchozo and held another by the hand, making in all POT\TO VENDER. SCENES FROM MY rr/.VDOlV. 487 "ten little Indians." They stopped imniediatel}' under ni\' windovv. Their scanty drapery reached a little below the knee, and their shoulders were covered only with their rcbozos. Evidently, there was a subject of disagreement between them, which was explained when three men of their own race came across the street and joined them. Then followed angry gestures, bitter intonations, and threatening attitudes, until the passers-by and occupants of the houses eagerly watched the quarrel. The children, quietly indifferent, and as if the affair had no possible interest for them, munched away on their tor- tillas. The dispute became so violent that I expected as a result to see at least half a dozen dead Indians, but was disappointed. . The man who figured most conspicuously in the scene offered his hand to one of the women. She turned scornfully away, but I no- ticed, in so doing, she touched the arm of another woman and chuckled in an undertone. He spoke to an- other. She gave him one thumb only, looking shyly in his face. The next one gave him her whole hand, when he knelt and humbl)' kissed it, as though it belonged to his patron saint. Then, slipping her hand in his arm, and with her two little Indians, they walked off, leaving the rest of the party to a further discussion of the affair. Then came a party of three — a huge dog, a grown boy, and an inno- cent miichacho about one year old. The dog was so loaded down with alfalfa that he could scarcely move. The big boy walked beside him, guid- ing him with lines. Mounted upon his brother's shoulders, with his feet around his neck, was the little mischief, holding tightly A FAMILIAR TYPE. 488 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. with both hands to a tuft of hair on each side of his big brother's head. Diagonally across the street is the Theatre Principal. The play, "Around the World in Eighty Days," had for some time past occu- pied the boards. On the outside was an immense painting represent- ing an elephant caparisoned with gold and led by an oriental, while mounted on the elephant, and seated after the fashion of a man, rode a woman dressed in gay colors, and over her a canopy with red draperies. Palms and other tropical trees appeared in the distance. On the same canvas, and in contrast to this peaceful scene, ap- pears another of quite a blood-curdling nature. A locomotive comes screaming and pufflng along. Suddenly myriads of wild Indians, painted red, with feathers on their heads and deadly weapons in their hands, make a furious attack upon it. They ride on the cow-catcher. Dead Indians and horses are piled around, and the headlight throws I a ghastly illumination over all ! I witnessed a general re- view of the infantry troops in the city, a sight which was strictly national in its char- acter, and made a showy and amusing picture. Mounted upon gayly ca- parisoned horses, the ofificers presented a handsome and soldierly appearance, in their uniforms of dark blue, elaborately ornamented with '^■^^V 1 red and gold. The soldiers. neatly attired in blue, piped with red, and wearing pure white caps, were also quite imposing. But the sublime BASKET-VENDERS. ^ ^ SCENES FROM MY IVI.VDOW. 489 suddenly culminated in the ridiculous, when in the midst of so much glitter, pomp and circumstance — waving of plume, helmet and sword — not "iess than fifty burros, meek and unconcerned, entered in the midst of these gallant defenders of their country, and, as if by right of pre-emption, plodded in serpentine lines the whole length of the procession. Some bore mountain loads of golden wheat straw, others charcoal, and pulque in sheepskins, with other articles too numerous to mention. The soldiers kept up their steady tramp, tramp, tramp ; they moved not a muscle, spoke not a word, as the bands played their most exhilarating airs. Now a man, bearing a trunk or wardrobe; an Indian woman, selling fruits, with her children on her back ; men with baskets, chairs, shoes, tanned leather, and others selling dulccs, joined the procession. At length the acme of atypical Mexican scene was reached when the burros unceremoniously raised their nozzles and brayed loud and long. As far as I could see up the street, the military and their self-constituted escort formed an indistinguishable mass. I had scarcely recovered my equilibrium from the effects of the procession, when a carriage and horses came flying down the street in wild confusion. The Jehu sat bolt upright, with feet outspread from side to side, as if " down breaks " was in order. His eyes glared wildly from their sockets, as, with clinched teeth, he held desperately to the lines. The animals were evidently uncongenial to each other, one being a young mule, the other an unbroken pon_\-. They reared and plunged violently, while Jehu used every expletive known to the Mexican language. But as this treatment proved unavailing, he jumped down from his lofty seat, and ran beside them, jerking the Jines and screaming at them. Still they heeded him not. At this critical moment a sympathetic bystander conceived a fresh and vigor- ous idea of assistance, and as he ran along, jerked from the shoulders of an uninterested pedestrian (who had not even seen the runaway team) his red blanket, and waving it before the frightened animals, threw them trembling and panting on their haunches. In a twink- ling Jehu was on the box, and, laying on the whip, was soon out of sight. 490 FACE TO FACE WIT II THE MhXICAXS. I glanced across the street directly afterward, and saw a boy who had passed several times that day, selling butter, which he carried in a soap-box, the cover an odd bit of matting, and the whole sus- pended from his head in the usual way. Entering the zagitan, he threw down his cage, and taking the but- ter out — each pound wrapped in a corn-husk — laid it in rows, and gave his head a scratch, took his money from his pocket, and began to count. Over and over he counted and scratched, evidently appre- hensive that his accounts would not balance. The scratching and counting went on for no inconsiderable time, his face still wearing a puzzled expression. At last the solution came in the recollection of some forgotten sale. He rose, a broad grin overspreading his here- tofore perplexed face, slapped himself on the hip, laughed, hastily slung his cage on his back, threw his blanket over his shoulder, and the last I saw of him he was vocalizing his occupation : " La maii-te- qiiil-la" (" Butter for sale "). The gritos (calLs) of the street venders become each day more interesting to the stranger. Each one is separate and distinct from the other, and each one is an an- cestral inheritance. In them, as everything else, the " costunibres" rule, and the appropriation by another vender of one of these gritos would receive a well- merited reprimand. But how indescribable is the long-drawn intonation, with the necessary n.isal twang of these indefati- '.; ible itinerants! A word with only four syllables stretches out until one may count a hundred. For the sake of conveying INDIAN MOTHER AND CHILD. SCIlX£S FA'O.V a/)- ll-/.\DOW. 49I some idea of these street cries, I have with much difficulty pro- cured the music of two or three of the leading ones. This is a branch of musical composition that has received but little or no attention from musicians, but by all means some effort should be made to preserve them in their originality, together with exact por- traits of the venders as they now appear. The grilos -.it the capital possess many interesting features which can be heard in no other city in which I have sojourned ; they are want- ing elsewhere in that fullness of pathetic and yet humorous melody. The vocal powers, thus exercised, attain a surprising develop- ment, as the voice of an ordinary v/oman may be heard for squares away. The most noted of all the lcma\e gritos is that of the tauialcra, a description of whom appears elsewhere, an old woman from the State of Guerrero, who counts among her patrons many wealthy citizens. TAMALERA. No - to - man ta - ma - les de chi - le y cap - u - li The husky, tremulous voice of a young Indian woman fell upon my ear one morning as I was crossing the threshold of the San Car- los. Around her neck was a strip of manta filled with vegetables. On seeing me, she began importuning me to buy. They were fresh and crisp, but I said to her : " I am a stranger; I have no home here, and have no use for such things." " But, iiina" she added, imploringly, " I am sick, have no home, and under these vegetables in the rebo::o is my sick baby, only two weeks old." Stooping to peep under the load of vegetables, there I saw the tiny babe, tucked away in the rcbozo, and sleeping as soundly under its strange covering as though swinging in its palm-plaited cradle. The mother asked me to stand godmother to the baby at the 492 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. Cathedral, one week from that day, but as that was impossible, she seemed reconciled when she found her hand filled with small coins, and bidding me a grateful farewell, she went on her way singing her song of the " costuiubrcs." Com-pra usted ji - to-ma ■ te, cbi-clia-ros, e-jo - te, cal • a - ba - ci - ta ? Won't you buy tomatoes, peas. beans, pumpkins ? These gritos are rather more melodious than those to which our ears are accustomed, such as, " Ole rags 'n' bot-tuls ! " The melodramatic tones of the newsboys at night, when many of the most popular papers are sold, had a more foreign sound than any that came to my ear. The boy who sold El Monitor Rcpiiblicano rolled it round and round his tongue until finally it died away like the hum of an ancient spinning-wheel. Another boy, with an aptitude for languages, sings out, ^'Los Dos Republicos " (The Two Republics "), translating as he goes along, ^'■Peri- odica Americano ;" while another, not to be outdone, yells out exult- antly, "El Tieiiipo de la maiiana'" ("The Times for to-morrow"). Only the word manana was distinctly articulated, which gave em- phasis to his vocation, as the Times is printed in the evening and sold for the next day. An amusing admixture of sounds was wafted to my room one night in the following manner. Two boys were calling at the high- est pitch. One was selling cooked chestnuts, and the other the Times. They managed to transpose the adjectives describing their respect- ive wares. " Castanas asadas" ('Cooked chestnuts"), shouted one. '■'■El Tiempo dc manana, con noticias importantcs " (" To-morrow's Times with important notices"), screamed the other. They were quite near together by this time, one on the sidewalk, and the other in the street ; and when the air was again made vocal, a spirit of mischief had crept into the medley of sounds. The paper boy led off with SC£.N£S FROM MY WINDOW. 493 mock gravity, " iiV Ticmpo dc manaiia asada ! " ("To-morrow's limes cooked ! ") "Castauas de nianana con noticias iiiiportantcs ! " ("To-morrow's chestnuts with important news! ") yelled the chestnut boy, and away they went, laughing and transposing their calls, to the amusement of all within hearing. VENDEKS OF COOKEU SHEEl- S HEADS. CHAPTER XVII. WHAT THEY EAT, AND HOW THEY COOK IT. X^^^^ ^ j. MAY live without poetry, music, and art ; We may live witiiout conscience, and live without heart ; We may live without friends ; we may live with- out books ; But civilized man cannot live without cooks." 1 ,:£Pi-^jyjy According to the light of history, it has JtL_J|||(( not been a civilization commensurate with our - ,| j/TTlf" own that developed the skill of the cook in ■^J^^^j *'" Mexico, any more than the more lofty gifts of " mu- sic and art. When the conquerors arrived at the palace of Montezuina, they were amazed to find it complete in every appointment, and display- ing a magnificence and grandeur they had not seen equaled; while, according to Bernal Diaz, his cooks must have been fully up to the standard of any that " civilized man " of to-day can employ. Among their accomplishments these Aztec culinar_\' artists under- stood more than thirty different ways of dressing ineats. At one meal they served up " above three hundred different dishes for the monarch, and for the people in waiting more than one thousand. These consisted of fowls, turkeys, pheasants, partridges, quails, tame and wild geese, venison, musk, swine, pigeons, hares, rabbits, and numerous other birds and beasts. Besides these there were other kinds of provision, which it would have been no easy task to call over by name." Mexican ladies take great pride in their cook-books, and watch WHAT THEY EAT, AXD HOW THEY COOK IT. 495 with deep interest the accuracy with which the aiiui de llavcs carries out the receipts. The cooks, however, frequently have their own books, from which, without further instructions, they execute tri- umphs of gustatory art. The first glance at a Mexican kitchen is anything but satisfactory to an American woman, with her ideas of a cooking-stove and its shining equipments. But notwithstanding the fact that their only furniture is pottery, Mexican cooks are too much attached to their antediluvian ways to be able to appreciate or accept any innovations. The estiladcra (water-filter) is primitive in its simplicity. It is made from a porous, volcanic rock peculiar to the country. The water percolates through the pores and drips into a vessel below. Bits of char- coal are generally thrown in, and the water is as cold as ice and sparkling as crystal. Could these stones only be im- ported, a vexed question might be solved — or at least a troublesome subject simpli- fied — among our own people. The same leisurely and ease-loving methods that characterize the business life pervade also the home. The most _"'-"„ engrossed man of affairs quietly leaves his :^ office with all its cares behind him, and takes to his home only his social endowment'^. He mak.;s his mifl-day meal one of enjoyment and the occasion of a happy mingling with the family circle. After dinner the siesta follows, and business comes to a lull, until, perhaps, three o'clock in the afternoon. Unfailing ceremony — a national characteristic — is observed in the serving of every meal. Whether there be three or twenty varieties of dishes, no two are served at once. The climate seems to demarui a rich and highly spiced diet, and, to make it still more luxurious, both fruits and nuts are freely used. THE E'. TI1..^D'"K.\. 496 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. But, to judge from the amount of dyspepsia prevailing there, it would seem that even Mexican digestion succumbs to it. No bread is made in the family, while griddle-cakes, waffles, and muffins are unknown. Pies, tarts, cakes, or pastries have no extensive place in the vicnu ; but their desserts of various kinds, made of eggs, milk, and fruits, are excellent. If, however, they are deficient in homely bread preparations, nature has given them a double compen- sation in the various delicious fruit beverages, compounded not only in the homes of the wealthy, but also of the humble folk. Among these I may mention two or three: Agua dc pina (pineapple water), a simple beverage, and one that may be prepared in our American homes. Beat, roll, or grind the .pineapple very fine ; then run through a sieve ; add sugar to taste and water to make it sufficiently thin to drink. Allow it to stand for a little while ; then add ice, and it is good enough for a king. Agiia dc cilia is made from a very fine seed that I have never seen in the States, but it is a delightfully refreshing drink. Horcliata — known to us as orgeat — is made from muskmelon seed, beaten and strained, with sugar, some lemon juice, and a little cinna- mon. Add ice, and you have a beverage to please the most fastid- ious. In a Mexican home the day begins with the simple dcsayuna. This consists of a cup of chocolate, coffee, or tea, with bread, and is usually taken in the bedroom, frequently in bed. There is no fixed hour for this repast, which is partaken of according to inclination, no two members of the family being expected to take their dcsayuna at the same time. To all who enjoy the last drowsy morning nap there is an inexpressible charm in this mode of life. The cares of the world are at long range, and one respectfully de- sires them to approach no nearer. No clanging of breakfast bells breaks rudely upon this delicious and intoxicating slumber ; no scowl- ing or looks askance from hostess or landlad\', for in all probability she, too, is snugly esnconced in the arms of Morpheus. WHAT THEY EAT, AND HOW THEY COOK IT. A,97 The servants are up and at their usual labors, but they move about noiselessly as specters; not by the stirring of a leaf molest- ing the sweet repose of the blissful sleepers. The most vigorous-minded gringo soon succumbs to this delight- ful custom. Though his former habit had been to rise with the sun, and eat an enormous breakfast of hash, chops, steak, eggs, hominy, batter-cakes, hot rolls, and what not, he at once and almost insensibly falls in with the native custom, and in a short time out-Herods Herod. He will linger longer under the covers, caring less and less for the matutinal cup. At twelve o'clock the family reunion takes place, when the alimicrzo — breakfast — is served. This, however, with its numerous courses, is really the dinner. Soup is an indispensable part of every Mexican dinner, and is used not only at the mid-day meal, but often, too, at cena (supper). The soups are of infinite variety and generally excellent. One lady told me she knew how to make one hundred different kinds. I have partaken of as many as twenty in her house. At Sefiora Calde- ron's I have seen seven varieties in one week, and all tempting and delicious. I give receipts for two kinds, and although both are called sopa, one is served as a vegetable and always comes the first thing after the liquid soup. One is not to take the place of the other. Queen of Soups. — Make a broth of chicken. When cooked very ten- der, take the breast and the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs, adding to these four ounces of beaten almonds, a small piece of bread steeped in milk, with a good deal of black pepper and a little nutmeg. Beat all well together, having previously picked the chicken into shreds. Beat one egg well, and then add the above mixture, after which beat again. Then make of the paste small balls and drop into the broth. Add a lump of butter to the broth, and a little sherry if desired. Truly delicious. Sopa de Arroz—r\z& soup— is a very rich yet palatable dish. In- deed, it is rather too rich for the average American stomach. They 49S FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. take a large, open casuclla (pottery vessel) in which about hciif a pound of lard is allowed to come to a boil, having ready a few- onions cut into tiie finest particles, w hich are thrown in and cooked to a crisp, together with a small piece of garlic if liked. One or two pounds of rice, already washed and dried are then thrown into the boiling lard and tossed continually with a large spoon until well browned. Next, a pound or m.ore of fresh tomatoes beaten into a jelly is thrown in and well stirred, with a few peppers, chopped fine, and a small quantity of salt. Enough boiling water is then poured in to cover the rice, a top placed over the vessel, and the whole is cooked slowly for two or three hours without stirring. It is often served with fried bananas. Where fresh tomatoes are not to be had, canned ones will answer as well, and I am sure this dish will be enjoyed by many Americans. Puchcro is one of the most popular of all Mexican dishes. It is not generally liked by strangers at first, and a taste for it requires consid- erable cultivation. It is made by boiling a shank of mutton in water for two hours without skimming. Add to this carrots, parsnips, green corn in the ear, cabbage, sweet and Irish potatoes, onions, apples, pears, squashes together with their bloom, thyme, pepper and sweet marjoram, as well as other Mexican vegetables and fruits not known outside the republic. Very little water is used, hence each ingredient comes out steam cooked, and as nearly whole as though the component parts were boiled separately, but without a particle of salt or seasoning or any richness whatever. Mexican housekeepers have an endless variety of methods for seasoning and dressing their meats. In a well-appointed household it is no uncommon thing to have the same meats prepared differently several times in a week. Perhaps it may be somewhat due to the fact of the wretched man- ner in which the butchers do their work that they must resort to boil- ing, spicing, and other means to make the roast desirable. But whm once prepared, the palate of Epicurus himself would be appeased. IVJJAT THEY EAT, AND HOW THEY COOK IT. 499 Ham, cheese, eggs, spices and the many dcHghtful herbs of the coun- try are formed into a paste, and by means of skewers the entire roast becomes impregnated with the aromatic, spicy flavor. Their sauces and gravies, however, I do not consider as good as our own. The most popular method of preparing turkey is called Mole dc Giiajolotc. Cut up as you would a chicken, and fry in boiling lard until well done, and then take one pound and four ounces of large, dried peppers, four ounces of filberts, four of almonds, lialf an ounce of cinnamon, a piece of garlic toasted in the fire, a few of the seeds and veins of the pepper, a few cloves, a little anise, coriander, and black pepper, a quart of tomatoes, the skins taken off, and boiletl until soft. All the above is put into a dish of hot lard for a few moments, stirring constantly to prevent burning. When brown, take out and grind very fine. Have ready a large dish with hot lard ; stir in the above; let it fry a little, then put in the fried turkey; then water enough to cover the turkey; let all boil together for several hours until tender, salt to taste, and serve hot. Tamal dc Casitclla (Corn-Meal Pot-pie). — One quart of meal scalded, with a little salt added, and four table-spoonfuls of melted lard. Any kind of meat that is preferred may be used, but generally the Mexicans take both pork and chicken, boiled until tender. Stir into the meal a double handful of flour, two eggs, and on this pour enough of the broth to make a thin batter. Take three or four large red peppers chopped fine, with plenty of tomatoes ; beat thoroughly together and cook in lard. Then put the meat, well chopped, into the same lard. Grease another dish or pan with lard ; spread the meal mixture on the bottom and sides, as for a chicken pie; then put in the meats, and cover with paste, and bake very slowly. When almost cooked, melt a little more lard and dress it all over; then put it in to bake again. Their list of salads quite exceeds ours, and reasonably so, as they have so many vegetables, fruits, and herbs, which, combined, impart to them a peculiarly pungent and delightful flavor. The following is 5^0 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. one that is national and distinctive, being made and used only on Christmas night, and for that reason is known as Esalada de la Noche Bucna (Christmas Salad). — Wash and drj- the lettuce, then chop fine. Put in a dish, oil, vinegar, sugar and a little salt ; stir these well together ; then add the lettuce, also beets sliced, with bananas, lemons and oranges, and some peanuts broken fine. Take pains that the fruit is placed on top. Every day in the year a Mexican housekeeper can have some kind of delightful salad on her table. The lettuce is whiter and more crisp than we generally see; the cauliflower grows to immense size, and is correspondingly good, while tomatoes, equally fine in color and flavor, gratify at once both eye and taste, supplying at any moment a depleted larder. But while these are all of superior quality, the popular taste prefers them served up in omelettes, with pepper, eggs, and spices. Fortunately, eggs, which fill such an important place in the national dietarj', are always excellent and bountiful. A delicious omelette is made of green peas, string-beans, potatoes, carrots, parsley, onions, pepper, and tomatoes, cooked a little and then chopped into a fine mass. Beat five or six eggs, in proportion to the quantity of vegetables, mix thoroughly, and salt to taste; add a lump of butter, then bake in a pan until nicely browned on top. Embucltos dc Hucvos. — Beat si.x or more eggs, as for a scramble ; have some lard boiling, throw in the eggs; then when cooked suffi- ciently, put on these any amount of grated cheese according to taste. Make a sauce of onions and tomatoes, with a few peppers chopped very fine. After stirring as for an omelette, cut the eggs into short pieces, pin them with a straw, and then pour the sauce over them. Chili y Hucvos con Qucso (Pepper and Eggs with Cheese). — Toast the peppers in the fire, remove the seeds and cut into small slices. Have some hot lard in a saucepan, into which throw a handful of chopped onions, the same of tomatoes. Pour in water, and when it is boiling, break in as many eggs as liked ; put in the sliced peppers, and when on the dish, ready to serve, cover the whole with grated cheese. This is excellent. n-J/AT THEY EAT AND HOW THEY COOK IT. SOI Chilis Rcycncs (Stuffed Peppers). — Take a dozen large green bell- peppers, toast them in the fire, then remove the skin and seeds. Have ready boiled meat minced very fine, a few cooked onions chopped with tomatoes, a little cinnamon, two or three cloves, a few currants and a boiled egg, all made into a paste. Having previously ground up all the spices as fine as possible on the indispensable Dictate (which for that purpose is as excellent as any of our spice- KITCHEN AT THE CAPITAU mills), great care must be taken to have the paste smooth, then slit the peppers, carefully stuff them with the mass, and close care- fully. Beat four eggs, whites and yolks separately, after which put them together, dip the peppers in, and then fry in a large quantity of boiling lard until quite brown. Some make a sauce of chopped onions and tomatoes poured over, but this is superfluous. Sttiffed Squashes. — Boil the squashes and cut them in halves, re- 502 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. moving the seeds. Take tomatoes, onions, and a very small piece of garlic, and cut all very fine. Fry the mixture a little in lard ; after this, stuff the squashes with it ; then, with bread-crumbs beaten fine, fry the stuffed squashes in lard, when they are ready for the table. FrijolcSy the native beans, are as much a boon to the rich as to the poor. Twice a day they close the meal, and even on ceremonious occasions arc not dispensed with. A failure in the bean crop would prove as great a misfortune in Mexico, as a falling off in the potato crop in Ireland. There is some little art in cooking them, and under no condition are they considered wholesome to be eaten the day on which they are cooked. They are boiled first until tender, and when required, are fried in a cjuantity of lard with a little chili thrown in. Housewives have much skill in the preparation of their sweetmeats, and the Mexican preserves and crystallized fruits are certainly supe- rior to our own. They possess the remarkable feature of retaining the original color and flavor of the fruit. The climate is favorable to their preservation, but as they have only the earthenware of the country in which to put them up, it seems strange that they should remain delicious to the last. I subjoin a few of their diilccs. Qucso de Almcndra (Almond Cheese). — To one pound of almonds add one pound and a half of sugar, the yolks of eight eggs, and six ordi- nary glasses of milk. Put the milk on to boil ; when well cooked, set aside to cool until the cream rises ; then remove this. Stir the sugar in the milk, and when well dissolved, strain through a fine sieve. After this, put in the yolks of the eggs, well beaten ; then put on the fire. Have the almonds thoroughly beaten as fine as a powder, and when it begins to boil, put them in, stirring continually. Add a little ground cinnamon. This is done when you can see the bottom of the vessel each time you stir across it. It may be cut any size preferred while still in the vessel, and it is a very delicious duke. Copas Mcxicanas. — Here we have a very dainty and attractive dessert. The yolks of twenty-two eggs beaten until very light, one pound of powdered sugar and twenty four lady-fingers beaten as fine WHAT THEY EAT, AND HOW THEY COOK IT. 503 as a powder. First put the sugar with the eggs, then beat them well together; lastly, add the lady-fingers with vanilla to taste. To be served in small glasses or cups. I can recommend this. Another. — Three pints of milk, half a pound of sweet almonds, two pounds of powdered sugar. Beat the almonds to a powder ; mix with the sugar. Have the milk boiling and stir constantly. While still boiling, put in the almonds and sugar and stir until the whole is the consistency of a thick paste. Put away to cool for the next day. Then take one pound of butter, and beat with the paste until very light ; the yolks of sixteen eggs beaten very light ; add to the paste, stirring all well together. Beat the whites of the sixteen eggs to a stiff froth, as for icing, adding a small proportion of powdered sugar. Put the first mixture in cups or glasses and place the white on top. Huevos Realcs (Royal Eggs). — Beat a dozen yolks until very light, then put them in a vessel, and put this again into one of boiling water to remain until they are well done. Put half a pound of sugar into a pint of water to cook together like a syrup. Before the syrup has cooked to a candied state, cut the yolks into shapes, or small pieces and put them into the syrup to boil. When cooked to an agreeable consistency, place in a dish, and on each piece of egg place almonds and raisins. The botanical and mineral kingdoms possess untold wealth, not only valuable to the chemist and pharmacist, but also to the house- keeper, who, for a trifling sum paid to an Indian, may supply herself liberally with domestic nostrums. Teqnisquiti, a mineral combining the properties of both soda and ammonia, is a standard remedy for indigestion, gastritis, or other stomach troubles. It is also valuable in the bath. Tisa, another mineral, resembles prepared chalk, and is not only used as a remedy, but is also the refuge of the housekeeper for bright- ening her silver, glass, and paint. Mountains of these and kindred minerals are to be found almost anywhere, an ever-ready boon to the housekeeper. These are all supplied and dispensed, for the most insignificant consideration, by the serviceable and ubiquitous Indians. 504 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. The maguey that furnishes, in one way or another, food, shelter and raiment for the toiUng millions, is also lavish in the bestowal of various medicinal gifts. Pulque — the national beverage, a prolific and profitable product of the maguey — affords many remedies. For coughs, they drink warm pulque; for indigestion, pulque with a little starch ox tcquisquiti ; and it has been recently discovered that for Bright's disease and diabetes it is a sovereign remedy, while it is a specific for lung trouble, by plac- ing under the bed at night a large vessel filled with pulque from which the patient inhales its healing fumes. In proof of its wonderful virtues, a Mexican lady told me that the venders of pulque are always blessed with health, flesh, and strength. For ear-ache, Mexican mothers resort to the leaf of a plant called Santa Maria, which is reputed to have a magical effect on the sufferer. For headache, a rose leaf pasted on the temples, with perhaps the addition of some kind of salve, is said to be a sovereign remedy, and is used by all classes. For catarrh and colds, rub the breast, forehead, and soles of the feet with hot tallow, in which a little snuff has been stirred. Be care- ful not to wash the face the next day. For chills and fever, take a dose of oil, followed b)' a tea made from Hojoscn and the camphor-tree, to produce perspiration. Then rub the body with a salve made from the Balsamo Tranquillo or lobelia, and the leaf of the cactus, bitter like quinine. Eucalyptus, which grows luxuriantly in many places, is also used. For whooping-cough, the patient is kept closely in a room without a breath of fresh air for forty days ; emetics are frequently given, and pitch is burned at night. For measles and scarlet fever, tea is made from violets and the Noclic Biietia flower; the patient is also quarantined for forty days. CHAPTER XVIII. THE AMERICAN COLONY. O mention has yet been made in these pages of the little band of m\- own countrymen which has sought and found a home in Mexico. This '"^ orphaned colony, numbering between six and eight hundred, has been kindly adopted by Mrs. r /"w-s^ Cornelia M. Townsend, of New York, who has resided there upwards of twelve years, and right nobly does this gentle woman fulfill her high trust and merit the title that has been bestowed upon her of "Mother of the American Colony." Since the successful inauguration of railways in Mexico, thousands of our people have drifted there — some for health, others for pleasure, and still others to improve their financial condition. The Mexican capital has naturally been the great rallying point with them, and whatever their successes, trials, sorrows, or misfortunes, their fellow- countrymen, in greater or less degree, have endeavored to aid and encourage. Some time ago an American Benevolent Society was formed by the most prominent permanent American residents, which numbers about fifty members. Of this society the American minister is ex-ofificio President ; Mr. I. Mastella Clark, Vice-President ; Mr. W. I. De Gress, Secretary; and Mr. Frederic P. Hoeck, Treasurer. The payment of $i a month entitles one to membership, and it is a noble way to spend that dol- lar, the object being to render effective aid to theii' suffering aiui distressed countrymen, whose increasing numbers demand active co- operation. 5o6 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. With only a limited amount of funds, together with sums gener- ously donated by the temporary tourist or traveler, the Association has accomplished a vast deal of good. But much remains to be done. A hospital is now being constructed under the auspices of the society, but the scheme is too great for its resources. The hospital cares for the homeless, sick and unfriended stranger, for whom every comfort is provided. But there is another great and imperative need for the strong and healthy — for deserving and industrious young Americans, cut off from social privileges and from the softening and refining influences of home. Comparatively few American families live in such a way as to en- able them to offer those hospitalities which would be a safeguard from the many allurements and temptations that naturally fall in the pathway of these young men. To meet this want and avert the dan- ger, Reading-Rooms or a Friendly Inn should be established, where evenings may be passed with comfort and profit. The business en- gagements and limited means of these young men preclude the possi- bility of accompli'^hing this for themselves. Connected with rail- ways, telegraph or telephone, or mining enterprises, they are con- stantly shifted about from place to place. Others would come in for the benefits they had received and the good work be continued. A wide field exists for the philanthropist, in providing for the comfort and welfare of our countrymen in Mexico. The Protestant churche-^, including Episcopal, Methodist, South and North Presbyterians, Baptists, Society of Friends, are all estab- lished and have in successful operation excellent day-schools, employ- ing the best teachers, both men and women. To me no music was sweeter than the young voices of these dark children of the Mission Sunday-schools, singing in their own tongue, in perfect harmon)-, " O, Paradise ! O, Paradise ! " and " Nearer, my God, to Thee," with other hymns, their sympathetic natures respon- sive to these inspiring melodies. Among the teachers engaged in the mission schools, I found " C'lara Bridgman," the charming correspondent of the New Orleans INTERIOR OF MEXICAN EPISCOPAI. CATHEDRAL. THE AMERICAN COLONY. 509 Timcs-Dcnwcrat, an accomplished young lady of the Crescent City, who labors assiduously as a missionary, asking no compensation but to serve the Master. Bishop Riley, of the Episcopal Church, has begun a great work in Mexico, and it should not be allowed to languish for want of moans. Substantial aid is required in order to carry it out according to its original inception. All communications or contributions to this pur- pose should be sent to No. 43 Bible House, New York City. To give some idea of the progress of the work and its wonderful results, I quote the following from Janvier's Guide to Mexico : " In 1879 I^i"- Riley was consecrated Bishop of the Valley of Mexico. His broad culture and thorough knowledge of the Spanish language and character especially fitted him for the high office to which he was called. He brought to the field of his labors the fortune that was his by right of inheritance, and he has been instrumental in having more than 100,000 Bibles distributed in Mexico; 49 churches were estab- lished, numbering several thousand communicants; 10 schools, and 3 orphanages, enrolling about 500 children." Bishop Riley's unselfish devotion to the cause and the sacrifices he has made for it, should be more widely known, and Episcopalians generally should rejoice at the strong foothold obtained b}' their church. The handsomest of all the Protestant church buildings is secured by them for their worship, and the congregations are large, attentive and devout. Of the transformation of this building from a Roman Catholic Cathedral to its present use, Janvier writes : " Here masses were heard by Cortes, and here for a time his bones were laid. Here through three centuries the great festivals of the church were taken part in by the Spanish Viceroys. Here was sung the first Te Dcitm in celebration of Mexican Independence, the most conspicuous man in the rejoicing assemblage being General Augustin Yturbide — by whom, virtually, Mexican Independence was won ; and here, sev- enteen years later, were held the magnificent funeral services when Yturbide — his Imperial error forgiven, and his claim to the title of Liberator alone remembered — was buried. Around no other build- 510 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. m ing in Mexico, cluster such associations as are gathered here. And even now, when the great monastic establishment has been swept away, and the church itself has become a Protestant Cathedral, the very wreck of it all serves to mark, in the most striking and dramatic v/ay, the latest and most radical phase of development of the nation's life." Christmas was celebrated in a manner truly American. Santa Claus visited the children, while roast turkey, plum-pudding, and much other good cheer was in every American household. Trinity Methodist Church was filled to overflowing, on the occa- sion of the children's festival on Christmas Eve, under the supervision of the Rev. John Butler, the faithful pastor of the Northern Metho- dist Church. Pines were brought a long distance, and loaded with presents for five hundred pupils, members of the Sunday-school and orphanage connected with the church. Bishop Foster, from Boston, delivered an eloquent address. At the hall of the Union Evangelical congregation, a cantata, "The Message of Christmas," was produced, the Rev. Mr. Sloane, of the'Baptist Church, assisted by ladies, managing the affair. The Methodist Church South also held a pleasant reunion of its congregation, presided over by its pastor, the Rev. Mr. Patterson, Church of the Messiah. The Rev. Mr. Green, of the Presbyterian Church, united with his flock in a fitting observance of the occasion. The American colony, and English-speaking people generally, joined r/i masse in these Christmas rejoicings and church services. At the Episcopal Cathedral, the great festival of the church was duly observed, but at that time the Chapel for English and Americans had no rector. Since then, happily, the English Church has sent over a zealous and accomplished young clergyman, Mr. Sherlock, who was cordially received, as well by the Americans as by the English. It was a source of extreme gratification to me, as an American, to see in what high esteem our former ministers were held. Ex-Minister THE AMERICAN COLONY. 51I and Mrs. J. W. Foster left the kindliest remembrances behind them, and I often heard them mentioned in the highest terms, especially Mrs. Foster, who seemed to have thoroughly studied and appreciated Mexican character. At the time that I was at the capital, she, too was on a visit there, accompanied by two brilliant Washington belles. On her arrival, according to the custom of the country, she at once took a carriage and called on all her Mexican friends. Ex-Minister Morgan and family also left similar pleasant impres- sions, and Consul-General Strother (" Porte Crayon ") seemed to have endeared himself to both natives and Americans. Consul-General Porch, too, became very popular during his brief stay. Our people may congratulate themselves on the peculiarly fortu- nate manner in which they have been represented in our neighboring republic. There are two American dentists, two physicians, and about twenty-five merchants, besides mechanical agents of various kinds, and cotton brokers. Father Gribbin is the only American priest, and no countryman of his fails to receive from him the kindliest attentions. Among the best appointments made by President Cleveland was that of General Henry R. Jackson as Minister Plenipotentiary and Envoy Extraordinary to the Republic of Mexico. A Bayard " with.out fear and without reproach," in him are com- bined the high chivalrous character, noble intellect, and generous heart that have commended him to the esteem and veneration of his own countrymen, and the highest consideration of all. Diplomatic service was his by heredity, his father having been Min- ister to France for a number of years, while the General himself was sent to Vienna as Charge d' Affaires in 1853, and was promoted to Min- ister Resident in the summer of 1854, but resigned in the summer of 1858, having spent five years in Austria. He is widely known as a man of letters, a poet, and an eloquent orator. General Jackson occupied the elegant house of President Diaz, and SI2 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. there dispensed a wide and generous hospitality, in which he was ably seconded by Mrs. Jackson, who with charming grace joined her hus- band in extending those social courtesies to Americans for which they were noted in their beautiful home in Savannah. Mrs. Jackson's recep- tions were held on Thursday afternoons. On Thanksgiving Day (1885) Minister Jackson entertained splendidly the entire American Colony. Not only in state and social afTairs did he represent the American people, but to the unfortunate he lent an ever-read}' and sym- pathetic ear, no countryman being too obscure or too miserable to claim his personal attention. General Jackson took a deep and active interest in establishing the American Hospital. The matter had long been under advisement. Simon Lara, of Spanish parentage, born in New York, an American by virtue of his birth, but having lived the greater part of his life in Mexico, was the generous father and founder, having donated the ground and money to the extent of twelve thousand dollars. The colony celebrated Washing- ton's birthday by laying the corner- stone. Americans came from all ac- cessible points, and under the circus tent of Orrin Brothers the interest- ing ceremonies were held. The Stars and Stripes waved over the largest and most enthusiastic assemblage of Americans ever known at the capital, while Mexican sympathy was manifested by General Carillo furnishing the Seventh Regiment Band for the occasion. A liberal sum was raised in addition to Mr. Lara's benefaction and one thousand dollars donated by General Jackson. The corner-stone, with the simple inscription, "The American SIMON LARA. THE AMERICAN COLONY. 513 Hospital, 1886," was laid by General Jackson. The box containing some of the customary deposits was consigned to its place, when the General, tapping the stone three times with a trowel, uttered impress- ively the words, " In the name of the Father, and of the Son, and of the Holy Ghost, and of suffering humanity." Miss Waldo, an accomplished artist from New York, painted the portrait of Simon Lara, and Mr. Balling that of General Grant. Tiie latter was raffled twice, bringing several hundred dollars, each win- ner donating it to the hospital. A lady from Te.xas suggested that to these two be added the por- trait of General Robert E. Lee, which was promptly responded to by a Virginia lady living at the capital, who painted one and placed it in possession of the society — the three to adorn the walls of the hospital when completed. Orrin Brothers contributed a grand benefit performance at their mammoth circus. The following is the address of General Jackson delivered on the occasion : Ladies and Gentlemen : That was a marvelous work of the pagan imagination which peopled the earth, the air, and the water with countless divinities ; giving to every stream its naiad, to every grotto its nymph, to every intellectual taste and aspiration its grace or its muse, and to every home its household gods. Vainly, however, shall we seek through the pagan mythology for god or goddess of that Charity pronounced by St. Paul to be greater than Faith, greater than Hope ; although Carita had been a name more divinely melodious than Venus or Pallas or Juno. As the pagan heaven was but a reflex — its gods but echoes — of the breath- ing world, it is fair to conclude that the word when pronounced by the pagan tongue failed to express that passion in the huinan soul. It was not known to the Greek ; else he had not erected his altar in Athens " To the Unknown God." Whence, then, came it ? — this emotion, more potent than the thunderer Jove, hurling the bolts fabricated for him by the forger Vulcan ? Whence came this power suiireme, which is now restoring its lost law of gravitation to the moral universe ? I know not ! Indeed, indeed, I know not ! unless it fell from heaven into the stable of Bethle- hem, proclaiming by its fall, and by its first touch, in material form, of the earth, that the lowliest of spots may be glorified by birth the most divine ; that the image of a common Father may be stamped most deeply upon the poorest of the poor; 5M FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. tliat, as in the heavens above there is but one God, so upon the earth below there is but one coinmon humanity, bound to him by one — the only perlected — prayer ; to be made by all in one, or by one for all : '\Oiir Father, give us this day cur daily bread." That prayer may be made by acts as well as in words. It is recorded of tlie Italian monk, Fra Giovanni— named in life " Angelico," known after death, as " Beato " — that he prayed with his brush ; his every picture was a prayer to God. And never since he first learned to lisp the hallowed' words at his mother's knee, never more fervently " in spirit and in truth," has the noble gentleman who gives to CHARITY the ground upon which we stand, repeated that heaven-born prayer, than is he now repeating — nay ! than he repeats it all the while ; for the heart of his charity never ceases to beat ; no race or nationality, no line of latitude or longitude, can bound its action. I venture to say that, although he is devoting these precincts to his own immediate countrymen, who maybe destitute sufferers upon a foreign soil, your gate will never be closed with his assent against the forlorn stranger who may be help- less, homeless, friendless, and destitute ! And we, too, are about to embody in material form the same God-given prayer. Humble, indeed, the structure which we shall raise, if compared with the Parthenon at Athens, or the Coliseum at Rome ; but the Coliseum and the Parthenon have fallen to ruins — the inimitable creations of Phid.as, himself called "the divine," scattered over earth, beautiful bones of a dead civilization. And so too, the wood and the brick which we will use shall crumble into dust ; the very iron yield to the destructive forces of material nature ; but again and again and again shall they be renewed ; the very earth upon which they will rest shall embody our prayer. The civilization vitalized by that spirit which fills with its adorable presence the heavens, the earth, the air, and the water ; which, "in the beginning" " was with God ;" " without which was made nothing that was made ; " in which " we live and move and have our being ; " and which, by the universal and irresistible power of moral attraction, is ever drawing the hum- blest of earth's sentient and intelligent creatures toward the One Omnipotent God, can never, never, never, die ! * » * * * * * * Since writing the above, General Jackson ha.s resigned and vctunicd to tile privacy of iTome life. Tfie American Colony, as well as many prominent Mexicans, showed their appreciation by giving him the grandest ovation ever tendered an American, with the single excep- tion of General Grant. As a further token of esteem, they presented him with a painting of the tmrivaled scenery of the Valley of Mexico, executed by Velasco. V^t^CyJ^ ^^^-^<^, THE AMERICAN COLONY. JI/ On receiving the gift, General Jackson made the following address, which I cannot forbear giving in full, not only on account of its in- trinsic merit and eloquence, but because it so fully embodies my own sentiments toward these people he, too, so thoroughly appreciated: Mr. Chairman, ami Gentlemen of the Committee, Friends and Coitntryiiun : What have I done to deserve this repeated demonstration from you ? Surely the resolutions of the loth of September were all that heart could desire, and more than was called for by any merit of mine. And yet you have come to honor nie anew by your presence, by the kind words of the chairman of your committee, and by another enduring testimonial of your regard — this beautiful picture of the Valley and City of Mexico, by a distinguished Mexican artist. Next to the resolutions themselves, nothing could be more grateful to me ; for next to my own, I do love this country. Grand and beautiful Mexico 1 how happy would I be to render her ser- vice ! Hither I came with the hope of doing something, however small it might be, in the great work of drawing her people as close to our own in sympathy as God has placed them in territory. But you, my countrymen, who have made your homes upon her bosom, you who are affixing permanent interests to her soil, you are the best diplomatists for a work like this. By obedience to her laws, by respecting her government, by pro- moting her welfare, above all by honoring her nationality, you can win for your country the affections of her proudly sensitive, but kind-hearted and courteous people. I say by honoring her nationality, for we should never forget that nation- ality is the God-given life of a people. Laws, constitutions, and governments are, at last, the mere work of man; but nationalities — these are the creatures of God ! The hand which in cold blood would destroy a nationality is an impious, a heaven- defying hand. It would poison a family ; it would murder a man ; for man, family, and nationality are all alike the creatures of God. A republic of republican nationalities, held together by the one common constitution, given by Him in his Sermon on the Mount, must be the final civilization of the world. What I said when I came, I repeat as I go : the Republics ot this continent can surely prosper only by the faithful discharge of mutual obligations — of all to each, of each to all, of each to each. They cannot afford to be false, the one to the other; to demand anything which is not clearly right ; to submit to anything which is manifestly wrong. They should rejoice with each other in prosperity ; they should aid each other in distress. Had I the power to-night, I woidd give to the nationality of Mexico, to the prosperity and happiness of her people, wings that should bear them far above her snow-capped mountains, up toward the eternal starsl And now what shall I say to you, my count.ymen — my own dear countrymen .'' 33 5l8 FACE TO FACE WITH 7 HE MEXICANS. To you who received me with open arms when I came ; who have ever been so generous to me, who have viewed with so kindly a heart all I have said, all I have done — in parting from you, what shall 1 say ? Nay, what can I say ? There are times when emotions crush out words. But far away is a Georgia home, whose doors will be ever ready to swing wide open to you and to yours ; upon whose walls will be hung the resolutions, so beautifully engrossed, and this picture, side by side, in loving companionship. Ine.vpressibly dear will they be to hearts which must here- after have a dual life ; one there, the other here ; one in Savannah, the other in the grand original of this beautiful picture ; hearts which will be ever awake to all that may befall you, to all that concerns you, and even to the last will cherish the hope of meeting you again ; if not here, if not there, somewhere in the boundless universe of God. The last word must now be spoken, the word that breaks the future off from the past ; the word that wrings the heart, and leaves it to the tumult of its own pulsa- tions ; " the word that makes us linger ; yet, farewell ! " CHAPTER XIX. A FEW OF THE POPULAR SONGS AND DANCES OF THE PEOPLE. HIMNO NACIONA.L. Poesia de F. Gonzalez Bocancgta. Cnro, Musica dc JAIME NUNO. 2 ,_!._?_ -I -<-i— « Me - xi ■ ca - iios, nl j:ii - to de guer - - ra El a ■ -&— 2-ICE 1 t-i — o • « • — •-•-•—• -•-;—• 1 — »_• — « « L_» — 0_0 0—0 »_; 1 »-; — • — « «- •*-.•*■■#■ ■*■ > > > §g ^^ 3^ > > _T 3^^-^3^^^==^g^^i -- N— =5;^ ^-^ •- ffei-isil: ^•zlrS^^— teiT^-E :fct=t— -!i-3 - ce - ro a-pre-stad y el bri - don Yretiem- ble en sus cen-tros la |^_ 1__* , ^-r-Mi^ s-^s—r-A b^ H 1 r-l ' ^fblz: T --4- ITE ig— --N- -•-• !•— fl 3 ^3z Al so - no - ro ru- gir del ca - Son ; Y retiem- M — ^0 1 r • • S *^) - fa - uar con su plan-la tu i 0§^SpJE^Lrf~i^ ^. ■^- fcS* C& -•— e- t^— 7"' 7 7-f^— 7— a=^ E5= sue - - - lo, Pieu-sa j oh pa-tria que-ri da! que el cie *■ ■•■ 1 ::;il^ x==^^ tzTiC: zbitz -y-i^ lo Uu sol- — r»~' — ' *r'~ *i"j ^Jk- S^l .-^- :pb ir|?=^^^^^^ .:£|fE ^E^ -^-^t: :#-'»- a ■ da -do en cada hijo te dio, Un sol - da- do en cada hijo te di6. .!?— i I=fc S£ ^* F — ^ j1^ II. En sangrientos combates los viste, Por tu amor palpitando sus senos, Arrostrar la nietralla serenos, Y la muerte 6 la . C. ai if? EUFROSTNA. Danza. F. G. Sedano. s. ^^ itt mm -F ^^— h-T n t-;-P=it:= 1E=. T_» z^/" — n J I • y 1 ^-# 1/ 1 ■^i=^ { S=£E f> — ^ — v=\^ ^—^z Iti-t -0-f-rh^^0- :!— fe f^i^ ii^p^ltp?lpllpipM^l^ ^E^^Ei^^i; *1 r^' POPULAR SOXGS AND DANCES. 527 m^± -it- .=1 — 1 » 1 V — — y I :8 -•— — 1 ^ 1— ■.=»-4ti=t: ff— I — »— • — »—0—»-\-\ 1 7-T A- • — • — • — i — A- ?-? ?- :3=E=P=5=1=F — 1 — •— •-? — "^ s— ?- _,_g_,^_«_r- •— r'- _ — 2 » — » — r^ — ' * ' — ' — ' a — * — r^ ■-• 2>. C. al 'S. fva-^-s-g — j-n — T - d--=5= , -• — :;— • 1— =^r -• ■ :1- 333^3^^11 LA GOLONDRINA. THE MEXICAN "HOME SWEET HOME." Cancion. Introftu etion . Moderato. ( fz'ZM-l- ff ^■'^ ^ "^ ^JJ m ff ■»■ h — ^i- 1. Whitlier so swift - ly flies the timid swal - low,\\liat /. A don- de i - m ve - loz y fa - ii - ga - - - - r^a — I • • ir ir — i^ S~2~5 — ^~g ^_ FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. iiipliirtsii^i=-^^iii distant bourne seeks lier un - tir - ing wing ? da La go - Ion - dri - na que de (iqiii se vn ? To reach it Oh, H en el — _- 1 — — — , Rt, » ?•--•—•—• •— •— —4 ^^^E^^^^^4d^^^^^^^^'^'^^^^^-^-^- safe, what needle does she follow ,When darkness wraps the poor, wee, storm tossed ai - re ge-mi-i-d es - tra - via - da Buacando a - h ri ■ r/n i/ no lu en- eon- tra- ■»■■»■■»■ ■*■■»- ■0- -S-S-S- -fi- -f- -S- I -••-•■ ■•• ■#- •— • — • — •-•-• • — • — » — — \^0 — • — • ^ F ■gEE^Ef^EEg££yj==rg=^-^ ^^ — p^-i- Tl 1 P^"^ — I — ^— ^-»-»-S 1 ^■ thing'?. .. .Whither so thing?. .. .To build her nest near to m.v couch, I'll rd, A-don-de i- rd Junto a mi le - cho le pon - dre sn _N ^** h^ L I I *- ■0-0- K /^ -d0- -m»- - -00 -00 •^Vf-r-r.-* ^'^-r-F-h-h-h-h-h-h- iiii^^^^I^li her ; Why go so far bright and warm skies to keep ! do En donde pue - da la es-ta Hon pa-sar : S— S — f \-0-0-0-0 Safe would she Tandiien yo en- F.g£ lEijEfgJ^^l^gg^ggfel be ; no evil should be-fall toy en la region per-di her. For I'm an ex do Oh! Cie-lo san ile sad, too sad to to sin po-der no - Rt •-•-• 0—^—0—0-0~f—0 •— •— •— E f~*"? * f— ?^lEH^fEfeSEfe-E^F-lE^t^EfeS^E^rl^^E!EtE^ POPULAR SONGS AND DANChS. 529 V^, '. V "y id. ff weep ; - lar. To builtl her weep. Junto a mi lac. Cx; — 0-»~» — •— « — 3 W *-* * — •—=—>• — I ~l - - ' -I 1 — — I 1 ^ — I ^ — I — a — ^ — I 1 — "^ 1 1 m ' '-» ^=J. =B=t^EEE _^__N_- 1^1^^ 2. My fatherland is dear, but I too left it ; Far am I from the spot where I was born ; Cheerless is life, fierce storms of joy bereft it; Made me an exile lifelong and forlorn. Come then to me, sweet feathered pilgrim stranger ; Oh ! let me clasp thee to my loving breast, And list thy warbling low, secure from danger. Unwonted tears bringing relief and rest. Deje tambicn mi pa/ria iifo/atrada, £sa mansion que ine miro nacer ; Mi V id a cs hoy crranie y angustiada, Y ya no pucdo d mi mansion volver. Ah! ven, qucrida amable peregriria ; Mi corazon al tuyo estrechare, Oire fu canto tierna golondrina, Recordare mi patria, y luego llorare. 530 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICAXS. LOS NARANJOS O ADELA. Danza. Lento. Tempo di Danza. -±7±: tf- • - I — EJESE^E^^-MiESElfE£^5^M^SEEl §^^§=§^ ? mm^m^ t^ ;, Re • cuer-das ^ i- ^^^^^. ^: pi: :f5=?r=.?.- -?— ?- de a - que-lla tar ■ de cuando eu el liElfi^SEfi^lgila^igifi^Jsi^ ^!E!E^5J^^H£^i|^EEEEE^i^=SEM §ip^: \__ bosqiie de los na - ranjos juu-toa tuy yo, juano eiitre i=i 3|iiipiigi|pi^L^^ i^fe POPULAR SO.VGS AND DAXCES. J N I -^ 53' =£fff: =#,• rs^^sE5£iE^r^fet--|^g=5 ma - no nos di - ri - gi - mos. liaciu cJ es |felEO=iEgl^ilgl =Ft' I&EE-^?=1 tan;iiie, dun de sus In ces, quebraba el sol ? J Re-cuer-das ^^M^%^^^^ip^ -• •_ •—I — •-- ^•zE£ ..Allien con tramos u - na Pi ■ ra-gua. u - na Pi - ra-sua que Sf me- 3 - ci - a que seme - ci - a co - mo las o - las, co - mo las o- las, del mar a- - zul. Tu Sofia- do-ra mi - rastt-al a-giia, yo a pa-sio - na- do I'liesto di- lii- 532 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. b— ^•— 5 T-"»--S-3» S S-T-T-S • : T-* — i a 1-1 5B^E^= no jos pu-es - to de hi no-jos, 1 a tus i^illel^ipiaipi|p|-p: -J^ ff I , pies. J Re - cu-er-das ^t?--. is^iiiii^^r^^^^ =5^ ES=?zz?£ — y- v^- > > > > > > k — ^ — ^ — 8 3 '^ ^. ii53S^S^iiipil?ii|?ipl pies. -h-ffl rl 1 V-^i rl — - gj^i§i|i^^§ipsii^j?ip|iji ; Dulces niomentos Que ya parsaron. . . . ! Y los Naraiijos Testigos nuestros Existen aun jOuien conio eHo5 Decir puiiiera Constancia siempre Siempre constancia Hasta morir ! J Adela mia ! De tus (lesprecios, De lu inconstancia, No apures mas POPULAR SOXGS AND DANChS. 533 La am.irga liiel. Con tus caricias, Con tu c.irino. Con tu ternura, Hiznie dichoso, Hizme lelfz. 3, Mas, si el cltsden De ui U'lz bella No tornas dulce Y apasionado Cual antes vf : A los Naranjos Y sus azahares, Tierna querella Del corazon EntonarS. jAdela. Adela ! Vuelve liacia mi Que sabes te ama Mi corazon Con frenesi. Se siempre mfa Cual tu\'o soy, Y con tu amor Hizme dichoso, Hazme feliz. V. Inidnal ^ — « — it — ^ No te puedo ver. ^♦* no te quieroliablar porquecontu S^i^iiiSiM#?^Eg|-^i"ii^S; 34 534 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. r- Ni - - (]i E^.-f£^^? me vas ii en »::v iiar. Ni-quel so-Ill ff-» •— • —r 9 • — • — • — T 1 m A 1 — T *^*— •-* tie Niquel na- * it=kli; .« »_ r^gE^ -J*!---^-*-*;-- *- g^B;E^jl .... jay que Xiquel ! con tu Niqucl pa-gns-te-nii fe. mm^^^wMfmmmiHMMjm] LA PALOMA. COUPLETS ESPAGNOLS. A FAVORITE SONG AMONG THE COMMON PEOPLE. Allegretto. 8 i^ ;||EE^ELi^EIE^^^=7EJfE^ t — >^ — ^ - =A: -, — •- Cuan - do li de la Ha- .«. L 5 — t _j L7|> g ij u : ba - na ral - ga me Dios w- Na - die me ha-vis - to sa -9 lir. . . si no fui ro. Yu na. tEE J — * a - lin - da Gua - chi 3 IS — ^-* > — ' — I >— K* — y 1> ' nan - ga sa - 11a voy yo. dolce. Que se vi no tras de ^==^^E±E5EE^EEF_=^^^=^=^f£h^^iE==^?=E^-^3 mi.... que si se - nor si a tu ven - ta • na He - ga u - na Pa- 536 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. pfc:^ » 9~ — 9- - lo - ma tra — a — ta la con ca - ri no que (^s mi i)er - so - na . . . :i r=^-^^ — — — 1 — — # — -?:= — •- * b b 1-, *— ^ '— --• *-.— • r — — s^ ^ I? y -f-- 5- S^^H^i cuen - ta - la tui ino - res bien de -3- vi - da. — »-F« — * — ^ — » — *--F->-;^-;— ^ CO - ro na la de flo - res quees co - sa -- ^— * — — » — * — '-E-' b^ifJ 3 3 1 Ay ! clii - ni - ta que si fen. 3 *=■ mMm 3 3 ay que da me t u a - mor .ay! -^3E?EEh. que ren-te con - mi • go clii ni -H — ta a - don-de vi - vo yo 2lg3- •^i 3 3 ay! que da - nie tua • m- arc both able and successful. They are declared, on ccnpctent author- ity, to be strict, if somewhat slow, in meeting their obligations. But slowness, where everything is slow, need not necessarily be considered detrimental; and it may general!}- be assumed that if they do not pay, it is because they have not the money — a condition not surprising in the financial depression of the last few years. Native retailers manage their business most skillfully. With a full estimate of the value of everything they desire to exchange, barter, or sell, they will ask the outside price, at the same time reading critically the character of their customer; if the price demanded will not secure him, most graciously and gracefully they will accept a lower. To their powers of manipulation may be accredited the fact that in no part of the country have the Jews, to any extent, been able to obtain a foothold in mercantile life. The Mexican is even more suave, more entertaining, and more determined in his mode of selling than the most smooth-tongued representative of the Israelitish race. He can sustain himself comfortably on a smaller profit, and is content to do so, as long as he is assured of holding his customer. The native, however, has not a monopoly of the retail trade. Frequently he ha.s associated with him cither a Spaniard, Frenchman, or Italian, and again these are established with success, independently. The capital is naturally the great emporium, the business of the country being concentrated there. The cities and towns along the Rio Grande may possibly conduct some traffic with the United States, and certainly an immense amount of smuggling is done; but the main supplies come from the capital. Mexico affords a striking illustration of the extremes of wealtii and poverty. A late estimate by one who is well informed gives her only about five hundred thousand people who are wealthy ; while the remainder is divided between those with moderately comfortable in- comes and the absolutely poor. But among the former there is a large professional and shop-keeping class, who always appear well 548 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. dressed, and with more or less indications of competency, but whose incomes are meager and uncertain. Those who have accumulated large fortunes are, after all, at a loss how to find suitable investments. A distinguished Mexican statesman has estimated that an uninvested capital of $50,000,000 exists in the City of Mexico to-day, a sum large enough to build and equip a rail- way to some extreme point of the republic. This is the case in every large city. Immense sums of money are m the hands of the rich in absolute bulk, without any outlet or means of investment. Stock companies and co-operative plans do not strike, as tangible, the popular fancy. The best thing generally is for this class to build houses and rent them, or lend their money at very high rales. Banking privileges are not usually resorted to by either the trades- people or the merchant princes. The " Bank of London, Mexico and South America " has been established for twenty-one j'ears, yet even now the majority of people do not avail themselves of it. Merchants use it for exchange, and also as a means of safety for large sums in silver dollars, this last sometimes for a very short time, perhaps for one day and night, after which their viozos may be seen carrying it back in meal-bags. Perhaps a prejudice may attach to mere bits of paper as the representatives of big silver dollars, but checks are not used after our method, nor is banking resorted to except as a means of commercial convenience. For the mechanic or tradesman no facilities whatever exist in the way of savings banks for the deposit of their small earnings. Consequently more or less extravagance is indulged in, or the money is hidden away without profit to them- selves or to the country. Notwithstanding the rainy season, success in agriculture in Mexico depends almost solely on the facilities for irrigation. Every drop of water is skillfull)- utilized. Often, indeed, the entire body of water is turned from its legitimate course, and employed in irrigating a large and otherwise profitless region. If a river runs near to or through several haciendas, the proprietors unite in constructing a dam across ADVANTAGES AXD DISADVANTAGES. 551 it, with large ditches to convey the water through the fields. They employ a man to take charge of its distribution, and during the farm- ing season he must be on hand both day and nigjit, to turn the w^ter on and off, as may be necessary. Lands rent for one-third and one-half of the crop. The propri- etor furnishes no teams, and the yield of corn is from thirty-five to forty bushels per acre. A hacienda, it must be understood, is a large plantation, and not a ranch for cattle, although one proprietor may own both. In this case, the farming is kept separate from the cattle raising. A church and .store are inseparable adjuncts to the well-kept hacienda. The peons buy the necessaries of life from the store, which of course keeps them always in debt, thus securing their services. Unless the proprietor of some other hacienda pays the debt, they of course can- not leave. There are two classes of peons, those who are in debt and those who are not. The former are by far the more numerous, and are called calpaneros or ganancs. The names and salaries of the principal employes are as follows : Ad/i!iius/rador,\v\\o is |)aid from $70 lo $100 per month. Alayordomo, " " " 30 " 60 " Ayttdanfe. " " " 15 " 30 " " Sobrc saliente, " " "' 8 " 25 " " Capitan, " " " S " 20 " Trojero, who has charge of the keys and keeps the ac- counts of the hacienda ; paid from $1 5 to $30 per month ; and a doctor, who is also paid by the month. The priest is paid for his services as they are rendered. The founder, wheel-wright, and carpenters are paid by the job. The mayordomo and the capitan are allowed horses and certain perquisites from the hacieiida. These capitans are rare characters in and of themselves. Though 552 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICAXS. in letters he may be the most ignorant, yet in that httle narrow skull he can carry more accounts than the most expert book-keeper. He knows the ante- cedents of everybody and everything on that place. He is a peon just as they are, but in many ways he shows his power over them. The accompanying illustration, taken from life at San Miguel Sesma, shows him in the robes and dignity of his of^ce. Every night the raya (an account of the days' doings) is gone through by the niayor- doiiio and capitaii, who come to the office of the hacimida to give an account to the ad- ministrador of what has been done during the day. The names of the peons are read, and the captain answers : " Cctonalc" ("He has worked to-day "), or " Homo clciio " (" He has not"), as the case may be. The mayordomo has a box full of beans kept for the purpose. Each time the captain answers " Cctonale " or " Homo claw," a bean is pushed aside. When the calling and answer- ing are finished, the beans in the two piles thus formed are counted, and the result entered in the day-book. The captain retires and the mayordomo takes orders for the next day. Everything is kept as systematically as in a banking business. The books of the hacienda are under government seal, and any one wishing to purchase the property may satisfy himself by looking at them. Haciendas have their marketable small products, such as pulque, wood, milk, lumber, charcoal, beans, sheep, goats, and many others known as esquilmos. Hogs are also fattened, but they are little used save to make soap, which is excellent in an}' part of the country. The impression prevails that the peon is in such a state of servi- tude that he can be easily compelled to adopt an}- methoils his ADVAATAGES AND DISADVANTAGES. 553 employer may sue fit to impose upon him ; but the fallacy of this is too well known by all who liavc tried the experiment of farminLj. The peon, like the rest of his race, has an instinctive dislike to A MKXICAN PLUWMAN. fields, while he unceremoniously returns to the ancient forked stick. He hugs the rawhide harness thongs and straps, and the primitive fixtures of his forefathers, and will not yield them up without a deter- mined resistance. In the hope of compromising matters with these ultra-conserva- tives, a wide-awake Chicago firm has recenti)' invented and patented a steel plow that is the exact reproduction of the forked stick and makes a furrow much deeper, whereby finer results are obtained. 1 visited several Iiacicndas, and on each more or less of our agri- cultural implements were used. Every agent with whom I conversed spoke hopefully that finally the products of our manufactories would prevail over any and every competition. But with the inherent preju- dice of the peon, it is not a source of wonder that even a progressive Iiaccndado hesitates to introduce any new form. On some plantations both the ancient and modern work side by side. But on many large estates one sees as yet only the usages of the Romans or ancient Europeans. It is easy for the mind to travel backward to the days 554 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. when the Moors conquered Spain. They did not desire the advance- ment of the people, and, bent on conquest, introduced few improve- ments except those connected with their warlike enterprises. In their turn the Spaniards have impressed the character of their civilization upon the Mexicans. A further retrospect, and we find ourselves face to face with Bible scenes. The glean- ers follow closely after the harvesters, as then ; the story of Ruth may per- haps find many a parallel here. Some Mexican writers have remon- strated against the introduction of la- bor-saving machin- ery, fearing it would militate against the , interests of that large proportion of the population — the laboring class. But as the undeveloped resources are so immense, it will probably be long before interference in that direction will be felt, for the cry still goes up for more laborers for both mines and haciendas. One of the principal causes of this want may be attributed to the constant recurrence of feast-days, the observance of which occupies at least one-third of the time. It is anything but a pious spirit that in- duces the laborer to take advantage of these occasions, but rather his innate love of ease and dissipation. These days are to him more lioli- days than holy days. But it is astonishing how little these people can exist upon. In spite of their small wages being in this way so mate- ADOBR HOUSES. ADVANTAGES AXD DISADVANTAGES. 555 rially decreased, they manage to live, and not uncomfortably either, on a mere pittance ; whole families, sometimes, spending but twelve or even six cents a day. The following extract is from a late letter to the Boston Herald, by Mr. F. R. Guernsey, the regular correspondent of that paper. Mr. Guernsey has resided in Mexico for several years, and is a very close observer and accurate narrator. This is what he says on the subject of introducing foreign labor: " What Mexico needs is such a flood of immigration as is being poured on the shores of the Argentine Repub- lic, that Mecca of the Italian farmer class. A proposition was recently made here for the introduction of Irish immigrants into the State of Oaxaca, where large tracts of land could be secured for them at very low rates, and coffee and tobacco culture introduced on a large scale. I have no doubt that a large Irish colony, started in Oaxaca under intelligent supervision and with due provision for getting their crops to market, could be built up into a prosperous community. The Irish, being mostly Catholics, would not provoke religious hostility among the natives, and their sympathetic and gay temperament would commend them to the nation at large. There is land enough, and to spare, in this favored country for all Ireland, and here the sons of Irishmen would become men of property and influence. There are many Irish names in Mexican history as there are also in Chilian an- nals. An ' O'Donaju ' was famous here in old days, and along the west coast of South America the 'Lynches' and Cochranes ' are noted names. The ' Morans ' are a noted family here. Other names common here suggest Irish ancestry. This matter might well be studied by persons interested in settling Irish emigrants on land of their own, and so giving to their children an honorable career beyond the reach of grasping landlords. Several colonies in this country are prospering, especially that founded at Ensenada, Lower California, under the auspices of the International Company, a Connecticut corporation. The railway system of the country, as it increases, will make markets for regions now isolated, and thus render agriculture more and more remunerative." 55*5 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. The difficulty of transportation remains a serious drawback to every enterprise to be carried on in tlie republic. This is so obvious as to render credible the statement that an over-crop is as detrimental as an insufificient one. When there is a large surplus, much waste must ensue for lack of the means of transportation. If the crop is a short one, the natives must go on foot and carry " corn from Egypt." In any case it is the masses o{ pobres who suffer, and the need for not only more railways, but also for wagons and roads, is a real one. If only the hoarded wealth of the country were thus applied, Mexico would not long be in the rear of other countries. Under tiie present land tenure, the owners almost escape taxation, while the peon, or the man who takes the products to market, must pay enormous taxes, at the gates of the cities, where the tax gatherers are located. A barrel of flour may be taxed a dozen or twenty times before it reaches the market. Every State, city, and municipality through which it passes has its own laws of taxation. Every page of a merchant's ledger or cash-book must have a stamp. Every receipt must liave one at the rate of one cent for every $20. Tickets of all sorts — even to the theater — contracts, bills, and a number of other things must have stamps. But the man who owns houses pays no taxes except when they are rented. This, it may be added, is the reason of the high rents. The lack of water naturally limits and impedes manufacturing, and the scarcity of fuel places a dead incubus upon it. The government has nurtured and given all the aid and encouragement in its power to such enterprises, but it is difficult if not impossible to rise superior to such great natural obstacles. Wood commands from $15 to $18 per cord, which is, of itself, enough to interdict the use of .steam. But there is a solution in the future to this question of fuel. There is no wider field for enterprising capitalists than the opening up of the vast coal deposits that exist in the various States. In Durango there are very fine deposits of hard coal. In other places many varieties are to be found ; and the States of Oaxaca and Puebla abound in coal of a fine qualit)'. Surely this will prove a great blessing to the country, ADVANTAGES AND DISADVANTAGES. 55; and a powerful agency of progress. Petroleum also exists in great abundance, but is still undeveloped. Though Mexico is a land of light, still more light is needed. The culture and manufacture of silk promise success in the future. Mulberry trees flourish in many localities, and the climate is so fine that silk-worms require no protection. There are sections well adapted to the growth of cotton, but it is cultivated only to a limited extent ; the principal part of that used being supplied from the United States. The mining and working of the precious metals had been carried on for centuries before the discovery of the New World. We read that the conquerors were amazed and their cupidity excited b)- the richness and splendid workmanship displayed in the costly peace- offering of Montezuma. Bernal Diaz enumerates among them " thirty golden ducks exactly resembling the living bird ; also, a round plate about the size of a wagon-wheel, representing the sun, the whole of finest gold, a most extraordinary work of art ; and a round plate, even larger than the former, of massive silver, representing the moon, with rays and other figures on it, as well as a quantity of gold trinkets," all displaying the most beautiful and skillful workman- ship. Mining investments for Ameri- cans have generally proved a sad experience. But still the\' ven- ture, working and waiting, hop- ing against hope. They give up comfortable homes to labor and toil as never before, deprived of every comfort, and at last are forced to leave the scenes of their unfruitful labors ruined in fortune and hopes, and with en- AN AMERICAN MINER. 558 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. er^ies broken and crushed. Some of the most utterly miserable- looking men to be seen are these unfortunate American miners. A few have been successful, but they make the exceptions to the rule. Mining laws, however, are said to be excellent, and are quite as favor- able to the foreign capitalist as to the native. In the production of fruits alone Mexico has advantages over other countries. In many places by stretching out the hands one may ■^1 , ^- s^ BASKET OF FRUIT. gather both temperate and tropical varieties. While many have been imported, a large proportion are indigenous and dail)' tickled the palate of Montezuma. But peaches, apples and other temperate fruits are in a neglected condition, and consequently lack flavor. For the rest, nature is sufficient for her own free gifts. The infinite variety and constant succession of fruits, all the year round, offer an attraction to growers as well as to those engaged in canning and preserving. Besides those familiar to home growth. ADVANTAGES AXD DISADVAXTAGKS. 550 as peaches, pears, lemons, and oranges, or known to us through com- merce, as the banana and pineapple, new, strange and delicious fruits meet the eye and invite the taste. At first Americans generally have a distaste to the native fruits of Mexico, but after a time relish them very much. The accompanying illustration shows a few of the most peculiar of these fruits. The long, white one on the left is a lemon from Jalapa ; it is nearly ten inches in length and about five inches in its largest diameter. The one in the center of dish is the chiriinolla (custard-ap- ple), delicious, and bears a stronger resemblance to a delicately flavored custard than to anything else. Another species of this fruit is the anona, which is seen on the right ; it is brown, while the former is green. Both have the shape and appearance of the pine- apple, and flourish in the latitude of the orange and lemon. Both have black seeds. The anona is so soft it is always brought to market enveloped in palm-leaves. The small fruit on the right, in front, is a mango, and the small one to the left is the agnacatl, or vegetable butter, commonly called aguacatc, grows in almost all parts of Mexico. Some are green, others black; some as large as a man s fist, others the size of a marble. If the skin is removed and the substance spread on bread with a little salt, it is a good substitute for butter; it also makes a delicious salad. By putting the seed in a bottle, as with hya- cinth bulbs, this fruit may be grown in all warm latitudes. Then there are the various kinds of zapotes ; chico (small), brown skin ; pri- eto (black pulp, green skin) ; amarillo (yellow pulp and skin), long, very large seed and d e 1 ic i o u s ; blanca (white), green skin, white pulp, and the zapote of .Santo Di- mingo. AUhaveadif- ferent skin, flesh and flavor, but the yellow and white are the MANGO AND SEED. 560 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MhXlCAXS. r^^^i^^^-"".-^' , YELLOW, BLACK, AND WHITE 2APOTES, most delicious. Along the Gulf coast there are miles of forest of the c/iico zapotc. It is a very large and valuable tree, having dark, rich foli- age, and for timber growth is almost unequaled. Pieces of the wood have been taken out of the ruins of constructions that were al- ready ruins when the Spaniards came, and they were still as solid as though in use only a year. The mango is a large and lovely tree and is indigenous; the fruit is a reddish yellow, kidney- shaped, with fibrous flesh, and a large stone much the same shape. The flavor is at first objectionable to strangers, because of the strong turpentine taste, but this is finally overlooked. As it hangs on the trees in the hot lands nothing can be more beautiful than these great bright bunches of twenty-five or thirty hanging from the boughs. The maincy is another attractive looking fruit of oblong shape, meat of salmon-red color, but a little education is also necessary for its enjoj'mcnt. When taken from the tree the fruit is warm throughout. The xicai/ia, an- other curious fruit, looks exactly like a turnip, but with none of the flavor of the latter. The granadita is delicious, and bears a striking resemblance in ap- pearance and flavor to our "May-apple." There are about forty varieties of oranges, be- MAMEV AND SEED. ADVANTAGES AND DISADVANTAGES. 561 sides several of lemons and limes. Then there are capulins (wild cherries), the juice of which is used in tamalcs ; the tcjocote, cirnclas, cidras, all small fruits, besides cicapnatl (peanut), as also many other delicious nuts ; the calabaza (pumpkin), one of the chief articles of food for the poor ; the cana (sugar-cane) ; the cacao, from which choco- late is made; the ^7/c?7w/;rt (guava) ; ^r(?«(7^/rt' (pomegranate) ; several kinds of figs, pears, and grapes ; also, charvicannos (apricots), iiiora (mulberries), ^rtr^rtworrt (blackberries), ^rcjc-Z/rt (raspberry). The acci- tuiia (olive) thrives anywhere on the table-lands. Then there are the sandia (watermelon), the caiuotc (sweet potato), the endless and de- lightful varieties of the tioia (prickly pear), and the maguey (as^avc Avicricanci), known to us as the century-plant, which furnishes every- thing from a needle and thread to a house-top, as well as a variety of food and drink. Of the latter, several varieties are made, chief among which is pulque, the national beverage. The manufacture of this liquor is as peculiar as it is interesting. Just before flowering time (which occurs much oftener than once in a hundred years) the heart of the plant is extracted and a sap rises to fill the cavity. The tlachiqjtcro, whose business it is to collect this sap two or three times a day, places one end of a gourd syphon in the cavit)' and the other end to his lips, and, by suction, draws the juice up into the bod\- of the gourd. It is then emptied into a sheep skin which he carries upon his back, and from this put into a vat, also of sheep skin, which, like the other, has the wool turned inward. The odor imparted to the liquid b)- these skins, as may be imagined, is anything but agreeable. On bringing it to the lips for a draught, the first impulse is to seize the nose, without which precautionary measure it is doubtful if the induc- tion into this beverage would ever be made. It is much pleasanter to the palate, however, than to the olfactories, and its effects upon the system are generally beneficial. It possesses medicinal properties and is considered a specific for Ikight's disease. The cultivation of the maguey is quite a source of income, as a single plant yields about one gallon of sap a day, and rarely more than one hundred and twen- ty-five quarts in all, after which it dies. 502 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. The other Uquors besides pulque whicli this plant produces are tequila and mescal. The former, named after the district in wiiich it is principally manufactured, possesses an agreeable flavor, somewhat resembling Scotch whisky. Mescal is made from a liquor obtained by ,K pressing the leaves of the maguey in a mill. Both mescal and tequila are trans- parent, while pulque has very much the appearance of the milk of the cocoa-nut. Tanneries are to be found at many places, but the leather must be of very infer- ior qualit\% if one may judge by the rapidity with which shoes break and wear out. There is no greater incon- venience to Americans than the style and quality of shoes. Generally it is not possible for them to wear those made on Mexican lasts. I have seen in the windows of shoe stores, "Ameri- can shoes made here," but the samples shown were far inferior to our home productions, and did not even resemble them. Rut for the artistic repairing of old boots and shoes the Mexican cobbler can certainly claim precedence. Shoes so old and dilapidated that even mothers could not use them instead of a switch on refrartory chil- dren, or that would not be available for throwing after departing bridal parties, he will repair and return as good as new, for fift)' cents. He sits on his stool on the sidewalk, himself unshod, verifying the ancient proverb, perhaps waiting for the niaiiana on which to be^in his avocation. THE TLACHIQUERO. ADVANTAGES AA'D DISADVANTAGES. 563 V ^^rVTnTo^^J^^i More paper factories are needed, and no cotintry offers t;rcator inducements, as the maguey is ever at hand to furnish pulp for the enterprise. France and Belgium have heretofore supplied the market, with a moderate amount from Germany and England. If Americans do not go there to manufacture paper, they should cer- tainly be able to compete with all others in supplying the market with a superior article. Considerable attention is now paid to the importation and breed- ing of fine stock of all kinds, and i Mexico offers unsurpassed facili- ties for this purpose, by reason of the equable climate and extensive pasturage. For, while cattle men annually lose thousands in their chosen sites in the United States, in Mexico it is perennial spring- time for man and beast. The meats are excellent in fla- vor and quality, the mutton being especially delicious. But a diffi- culty lies, generally, in the butch- ers, who cut and slash it in so many directions that it is difificidt to tell what part of the animal you are eating. Butter everywhere is a very scarce and inferior commodity. Housewives know nothing of making and caring for this article, which to Americans is a prime necessity. The most primitive means are employed in its manufacture. In some places the milk is put into a sheep or goat skin, then fastened on a mule or burro, usuall)- the latter, and trotted at a rapid rate. Inferior in quality as it is, I have never seen a pound sell for less than from four to si.x reals. The natives make a cheese from goat's milk that is quite good when one becomes accustomed to it ; but no attention is given to checse-mak- A STREET SHOEMAKER. 564 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. ing, as we know it, although the facilities are at hand, in the labor, the cattle and feeding, as well as in the tastes of the people, who use it largely in their cuisine. At the capital a pound of American cheese costs 62}^ cents (five reals). The finest butter and cheese in the world could be produced on the beautiful and abundant alfalfa. Our people should look into these openings for enterprise, particularly as the Mexicans themselves would be constant patrons. The refining of salt is another much needed industry, for which ample material exists in immense deposits that are in the same con- dition to-day as when the conquerors came. A five-cent sack of American table salt costs three reals, while what is generally used is in the crudest state possible, requiring to be washed, dried in the sun, and then ground on the nictate before it is ready for use. Bacon and ham are both imported, the United States now furnish- ing the greater part. The price is never less than five to si.x reals a pound, even at the capital. Finer hogs can be produced in no country, and with mountains forever snow-covered, and railways offering inducements to shippers, pork packeries and meat-canning establishments could easily be estab- lished and made a paying investment. No improvement can be made on the lard, which is beautifully white and sweet ; but the supply in no wise reaches the demand, as shown by the price, which I have never known to be less than from twenty-five to thirty-seven cents, or three reals a pound. Wheat is one of the best products of the soil, and flouring-mills convert it into excellent flour, but either the mills are not numerous enough or the supply of wheat is deficient, as prices are exorbitant — the cheapest I have seen costing three dollars and a half for fifty pounds. Fond as the Mexicans are of dainties and delicacies, the cracker and wafer, so indispensable in our dietary, are not made in the country, with the exception of one or two factories at the capital from which they are supplied at three reals a pound. Factories of this kind would develop the general taste and doubtless also prove profitable. ADVANTAGES AND DISADVANTAGES. 565 By all means let some enterprising spirits establish goose ranches. Strangers are particularly impressed with the unyielding pillows and beds, encountered everywhere in hotels ; and with few exceptions they are little different in private houses. Both climate and soil are favorable to the production of broom- corn, and, as the native manufacturers are less skilled in broom-making than in almost anything else, I surely think this manufacture would be a desirable enterprise. American brooms, when obtainable, cost one dollar apiece. I could go on enumerating the smaller industries which would find a ready demand, and require but little capital. But it is unneces- sary. It has only been my aim to show that everything stands wait- ing for the ready hand and determined will of some who may desire to begin life in that old country on a moderate scale and grow to affluence. There is no opening whatever for either Am.erican matches or match-makers; for the matches of the Mexican match-.naker are matchless ; a rule that holds good in more ways than one, and may even apply to scenes from the balcony. I have found an elysium for the Smiths, Browns and Joneses. By merely crossing the Rio Grande, they will find themselves answering to extremely high-flown names, without legal or legislative intervention, or arousing the suspicion that they left their country for their coun- try's good. Plain William Brown becomes Guillermo Moreno, James Smith flows off euphoniously into Santiago Esmith, while John Jones murmurs in the mellifluous Castilian as Don Juan Jo-nis (Huan Honis). The very serious question of American families taking up their residence in Mexico is one that demands especial care. We of the United States have such a profusion of comforts, even among the plainer classes, that it is not to be expected of an American woman to settle herself contentedly in her Mexican home with the scanty allow- ance of furniture and otherwise primitive household arrangements she there encounters. As before stated, hotel life is not proper or customary for families, and there are no boarding-houses ; the whole J 66 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. matter must at once resolve itself into the setting up of one's own little household kingdom. Furniture is not only extremely scarce but high- priced, and furnish the liouse the best one can, with what is to be had, and with a limitless amount of pottery cooking utensils, still there will remain an aching void in the list of supplied necessities. If house- hold goods are brought from home, ta.xes and custom-house duties will fully quadruple their original cost. No American woman thinks at first that she can exist without a cooking-stove, but, to carry one along that has cost twenty dollars at home, it will, when turned over to her, have cost six times its original value. When in its place and man or biirro ha\'e trotted their score or two of miles with a double handful of wood for cooking purposes, another difficulty is added when the cook tells her : " It will give me disease of the liver," or, " iVi? cs costianbre." It is then her disgust reaches a supreme height. If she fails to take pillows and bedding along, it is possible that she may " lie on the floor and cover with the door," or rest on such sub- stitutes for beds as would break the bones of a Samson or Goliath. This may seem paradoxical, having described the elegant furnish- ings of some Mexican mansions; but stores exclusively for furniture are not general, with some exceptions at the capital and in the larger interior cities. The Mexicans have been always accustomed to order their house- hold furnishings direct from Europe or the United States, and strangers generally on going must risk the chances of buying what they can second-hand from some one moving away, or have a carpen- ter manufacture some, on his own plans and specifications. But do not calculate on the time for it to come into your possession. Mean- while a cot and a few Mexican blankets are blessings in exchange for the soft side of an earthen floor. You may be able to rent rooms in families, and in gems of pre- cious pottery prepare your meals after your own fashion. Sometimes you will be able to procure comfortably furnished rooms, and have meals sent from a foiida, but you will very rarely find a Mexican family who will furnish them. You may have a room in their house, ADVANTAGES AND DISADVANTAGES. 567 and be freely invited to a place at their board, but to receive money for anything but the rent would be an infringement upon their estab- lished usages and ideas of hospitality. While the vegetables, meats, and fruits are not so high as in the United States, and are generally better, other necessaries make ex- penses mount up amazingly. American men accommodate themselves quite readily in Mexico to the inconveniences of the home life — natural enough, when they have none of the worry — but, with a few exceptions, I have never seen an American woman in the country who was not continually pining to return home. So far, no educational advantages exist for American children ; and this of itself is a source of great perplexity. But the children themselves are extremely adaptable to everything in the coljntry, learning the language with wonderful rapidity, and in their childi>h communications adopting the customs of Mexican children. Like these, they are universally petted and adored by all classes, from the servants to the highest society. I have seen one American child engage the attention and interest of every Mexican in a railway car. An American gentleman and his wife who had resided a number of years in Mexico, and had had four children born to them in that country, were returning to Texas. These little ones had completely identified themselves with the country of their nativity and repudiated that of their fathers. Soon after crossing the Rio Grande, they stopped at a ranch house, and seeing some other American children bare-footed, they ran excitedly to their mother, exclaiming with mingled scorn and pity, " Mira, iiia?na .' las gringitas sin zapatitas !' (" Look, mamma! those little gringos without shoes!") Anglo-Mexican children will never admit that they have American blood in them. Generally there is but little social interchange between the women of the two countries ; but when it takes place, warm friendships are apt to ensue. I wish my countrywomen residing there would make more effort in this direction, that the people of both countries might 568 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. know and understand each other better; for men, left to themselves, with all their diplomac}', lack the finer tact and instinct of women in uniting and binding together widely separated elements. Those who intend to become residents will read with interest the late laws relating to foreigners. There is a law of naturalization lately published that is important to Americans. Subjoined is a cop)' of the official notice: " Americans are hereby notified that, in conformity with Article I., Chapter V., of tlie Law on Foreigners, of June, 1886, foreigners who may have acquire- 1 real estate, or have had children born to them within the republic, will be considered by the Mexican Government as Mexican citizens, unless they officially declare their intention to retain their own nationality, and to that effect obtain from the Department for Foreign Affairs a certificate of nationality, on or before December 4, 1886. " Said certificates may be obtained for Americans through the Legation or the Consulate-CrL-neral of the LInited States in this city. " Applications for the same must be accompanied by one dollar for the necessary revenue stamps, also by a personal description of the applicant "Legation of the United States, Mexico, August 20, 1886." Still another law requires that all foreigners should be matriculated at the Department for Foreign Affairs, that their nationality may be declared and recognized. Foreigners who wish to have a hearing be- fore the courts of the country should not fail to comply with this law, as business interests are not secure without it. The climate is all that is claimed for it — even more: and it is recommended as a safe retreat for those afflicted with pulmonary or throat troubles. But, even here, a disadvantage arises. If they im- prove and all goes well, it is not safe to return to their homes and this is the thing above all others they most wish to do. If they remain, the lungs will harden and heal over, causing little or no pain or incon- venience, and life be prolonged to a good old age. But the artificial or real strength imparted by the delightful climate lures them into a feel- ing of security. But a return hoine makes the decline more rapid than the improvement has been. However, if in the earlier stages of the disease, they will make up their minds to live in Mexico, taking all things as they find them, I believe many permanent cures will be ADl-AA'TAGES AXD DISADVANTAGES. 569 effected. I have seen some fine specimens of robust strength and health which were only gained by exercising a firm will atul determi- nation — a trying and almost impossible achievement to the invalid. While the strong and healthy American will readily accustom himself to the food, the sick naturally loTigs for home cooking. Occasionally a friendly countryman will have a few comforts, and such fare as is suited to the palate of the invalid, which he is generall)- pleased to share. Mexican physicians, as a rule, are highly educated and accomplished men ; having not only excellent advantages in the Medical School at the capital, but a large proportion being graduates of celebrated European colleges. Consumption is not by any means confined to the stranger. It undoubtedly originates among the natives, and usually with fatal re- sults. Another disease in this fine climate, and as much to be dreaded, is catarrh ; and a simple cold soon takes this form. No class is exempt from it, and perhaps from this the custom arose of wearing the blanket, shawl, or handkerchief over the nose and mouth. That their fine air, so celebrated and lauded by visitors, should be blamed for every malatly that flesh is heir to, seems a contradic- tion. But in this as in everything else " ON ACCOUNT OF THE AIR. 570 FACt TO J- ACE WITH THE MEXICANS. there is a special fitness, for strangers soon find themselves follow ing the same custom. Ask at any time a man or woman of the poorer class why they draw the blanket over the mouth, and you will at once be answered with, " Por el aire " (" On account of the air "). Police regulations are admirable. The men are uniformed, and stationed in the middle of the . _. ^ streets where they cross a t right angles; and regardless of wind or weather, each one remains at his post eight hours at a time, blowing his shrill vv h is tie every quarter of an hour, in an- swer to the call of his co-guar- dian of the peace. The quiet and order that prevail in all towns and cities attest their efificiency. The body known as the Rurales constitute in Mexico to-day the most competent preservers of the public peace existing within her borders. They were once lawless and abandoned men, who led lives of wild adventure, many of them being bandits, fearing nothing. When General Porfirio Diaz became President, he felt the necessity of providing the rural districts with an efficient mounted police force. The utmost forethought could not have predicted such grand results. Being as they are familiar with every mountain pass and lonely defile, fearless riders, and possessed of extraordinary strength and undaunted POLICEAIAN f)V Dl'TV. ADVANTAGES A.\D DISADVANTAGES. 571 courage, they have proved Iheir prowess and valor from first to last. It gives one a feeling of security and satisfaction to see a company of these sturdy horsemen entering a city or town, after a toilsome journey in the wild mountain fastnesses. They wear a gay and picturesque uniform of buckskin, the pantaloons decorated on the out- side seams with silver buttons, coat and vest of the same material, a gorgeous red sash, and a red cravat or silk handkerchief around the neck, and sombrero with silver cord and tassels. Behind the gayly-equipped saddle a red blanket is folded and snugly secured, adding an extra charm of color to the invincibles. They come and go as if in haste, the rattling of their accouterments always attract- ing the attention of strangers. Land and sea can alike testify to their courage. On January iSth, 1886, the American whaler Ranger ran ashore at Ensenada on the Lower California coast. The crew were swept into the sea, and would 572 • FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. inevitably have perished but for the courage and humanity of a party of Ruralcs. One poor sailor was swept out of their reach, though they made superhuman efforts to save him. The President of the United States, through Mr. Bayard, and in appreciation of their valor, forwarded to the Rurales memorials, con- sisting of a gold watch and chain for the chief, with this inscription : " Presented by The President of the United States to Pedro Miramontes, Chief of the Rural Guard, Ensenado, Mexico, For humane and praiseworthy services in behalf of a boat's crew of the U. .S. steamer 'Ranger,' January l8, iS86." Silver medals were given to the others of the rescuing party. Upon the subject of American interests in Mexico, I am glad to introduce the opinion of Judge J. F. Crosby, of Texas, who was at the Mexican capital during my stay there, and in an interview with a representative of the T-lVo Republics, thus freely expressed his views with regard to the prospects and safety of American enterprise in Mexico : . , " I do not only believe but know from actual observation that American enterprise has a most promising future in Mexico. The people of Mexico arc not nearly as prejudiced against Americans as superficial observers would have the people of the United States be- lieve. That they are down on men who claim to be Americans, but are devoid of gentlemanly instincts, and show no respect for the re- ligion and customs of a people whose hospitality they ask ; who slander their wives an-d daughters, and charge the Mexicans with being dis- honest and treacherous, is not to their discredit. But they are anxious for the good will of the American people, and if the Americans wlio have visited this country had been half as anxious to win the respect of the Mexicans, both countries would be better informed about each other than they are now. The upper ranks of the Mexicans are the ADVAXTAGES AM) J^ISADVANTAGES. 573 equals of anybod}- in culture, patriotism, and iuiman virtues, while the lower classes, altliouL;h seemingly degraded, are as law-abiding, intel- ligent and gentle as any people could be under similar circumstances. I know of what I speak when I say that these people, high and low, have fought harder and suffered more for the establishment and main- tenance of republican institutions than the much exalted foutulers of our own republic ever dreamt of doing. Being forced, ever since they first asserted their independence, to defend it against invaders and con- spirators, these people have not had the opportunity to pay that at- tention to the interior development of republican institutions whicJi in the United States has taken a natural course, excepting the forcible removal of the curse of slavery, which, by a little good judgment mi both sides, might have been brought about in a quiet and peaceable manner. Indeed, the Mexican people, as such, are entitled to the highest respect on our part. But the trouble has been, and is to-day, that people come here from the United States expecting to make fortunes in a day, and believing that everybody has to receive them as superior beings, and very often act in a highly offensive manner. There are such people now here, right here in Mexico, who misrepre- sent the American character, and in their talks to visitors misrepresent Mexico in a scandalous manner. I am glad to know that The 1 li'O Republics accepts it as a duty to neutralize the harm such people are doing." On being asked if he considered it safe for Americans to make in- vestments in Mexico, he said : " I do indeed, and have proven it by my own acts. The Mexican Government is ever ready to encourage American enterprise, and has quite often got the worst of its bargains. It has been led to promise support to enterprises beyond its power of fulfillment. .-Vnd this makes me think of the charge that Mexican officials are corrupt and are bleeding American investors. It is quite possible that concessions have been bought, and that some Mexican officials have betrayed their trusts; but that is as much the fault of the investors, familiar with the crooked ways of legislatures, both State and national, in 574 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. the United States, as of the officials. As a rule, I am free to con- fess that, as far as integrity is concerned, Mexican ofiScials compare very favorably with their counterparts in the United States. My advice to investors is, to avoid middlemen of all kinds, and to deal directly with head-quarters. They will find how easy and pleasant it is to deal with the Mexican Government. Treat a Mexican like a gentleman, and he will treat you the same." He is very sanguine as to the opening of lands for settlement in Mexico. • He says : " I believe that the present government fully appreciates the ne- cessit)' of breaking up the large estates. My opinion is, that Mexico must very soon open wide to immigration, the same as the United States have done. It is only a question of time, when a foreigner will have the chance to acquire full political equality with the native citi- zen. In the mean time, I know that many estates have passed and will pass into the hands of American and other capitalists, who will naturally break them up into small homesteads, in order to secure the largest I'eturns for their investments. The spirit of the times is felt by the Mexican leaders, and it will not be long before, through their efforts, the Republic of Mexico will be as much the home of the free and the brave, in the sense used in the United States, as the latter. I repe.;t it once more, Americans who mind their business, who behave like sensible men, and treat the Mexicans with the respect they de- serve, will find a splendid field for enterprise in Mexico. Their prop- erty and their lives will be well protected, as far as the government can afford such protection, that is, to the same degree as they are pro- tected in the United States. But they must obey the laws of the land, and always realize that they are enjoying the hospitalities of a country which still considers everybody not a native a foreigner." Judge Crosby lived for many years on the frontier of Texas, and as early as 1854 became judge of the immense district comprising all the territor)- west of the Pecos. .Since then he has held important rela- tions with our railway system. Eminent in scholarship, in legal lore one of the brighest lights of the Texas bar, and with exceptional op- ADfAXTACES AND DISADVA.\"IAGES. 575 portunities for knowing the subject thoroughly, Judge Crosby's opin- ions are entitled to the highest consideration. He says further : " During my judicial career nobody gave me less trouble than the Mexicans, but I have to confess that 1 was very often called upon to protect them against sharp, not to saj- dishonest [irac- tices, on the part of the Americans who flocked into that country. The criminal branch of my court was almost exclusively occui^icd by the trial of offenses committed by lawless men who claimed to be Americans, and the only time I was in danger was when these outlaws tried to assassinate me while holding court. My life was saved through the intervention of Mexicans from both sides of tin- Rio Grande, who had heard of the conspiracy in time, and, forming a guard around the court-house, kept the scoundrels off." In a recent letter to the author Judge Crosby says: " My acquaintance with Mexico and her people dates back to a period of forty years, when, as a si.xtcen-year-old j^outh, I served under Jack Hays, the original Texas ranger, at the battle of Mon- terey. From that period to the present, I have never ceased to in- terest myself in all that has concerned Me.xico and her future. I have made a study of lier constitution, her laws ; the manner^-', cus- toms, traits of character, etc., etc., of her people, as well as the charac- teristics of this most beautiful and virgin portion of the North Ameri- can Continent. Me.xico is certainly the newest and yet the oldest of all North America." Judge Crosby is at present engaged witli some New York cap- italists in developing the Corallitos property in Chihuahua, one hun- dred and fifty miles southwest of El Paso, which comprises 8oo,coo acres of farming and mining lands, and in which thus far $700,000 have been invested. I am glad to testify to the fact from personal experience that ladies may with safety and propriety travel on any of the lines of railway throughout the country, getting off at any city or town and inspecting it to their satisfaction. Only this suggestion I would make : at the hotels where you stop procure a guide, wlio knows all 5/6 FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICAXS. the places of interest, and pursue your way quietly, not making undue remarks nor laughing in a loud tone at what may seem ludicrous. Mexican affairs have been severely criticised by many writers; and objections of every character have been urged. It will be found, however, that there is neither fairness in statements made, nor is there much display of deep study into causes. Among the chief complaints are: (i) The instability of the Mex- THE CITY OF MEXICO. ican government and the pronciiess of the people to revolution. (2) Border troubles between Mexico and Texas. (3) Non-progressiveness of the Mexican people. (4) Want of wholesome internal laws con- ducive to the happiness of all classes. History shows that the government of Mexico has been unstable; and that the beautiful country has, until within a decade or so, been the scene of oppression and strife, ever since the day when Hernando Cortez first unfurled the Spanish flag, and burned his ships on her shores. But when it is considered that the country was filled with independent peoples, each with its own traditions and customs, living Sf' CHURCH OF SACRE MONTI, AMECAMECA. ADVAKTAGES AND DISADVANTAGES. S70 in great cities, and with independent governments, and not nomadic in tiieir character, but holding the soil of their ancestors, it is not sur- prising that the change from the ancient civilization of the aboriginal races to the modern has been slow, and that governmental disturb- ances have been frequent. No race that was fixed has been over suddenly induced to adopt the laws, customs and religion of its con- querors ; and the tardy progress of Mexico has been largely ilue to the restraining influences and prejudices of the original inhabitants, who slowly discard the habits of their ancestors for the teachings of modern civilization. It takes centuries to work such a transforma- tion. Then, too, the immutable doctrines of the Church, with its un- varying teachings and ceremonies, serve in a measure to influence the people to receive with caution and by slow degrees anything that would change their social and political condition. These remarks, of course, apply particularly to the original races that occupy Mexico — remnants of the ancient tribes. Mexico has progressed as rapidly as could be expected, when the large number of her aboriginal inhabit- ants is compared with the feebler bands of European strangers that mastered the government, and engaged in the attempt to indoctri- nate the people with a new religion, new government, and strange customs. The English in North America had none of these difficulties, because they met a nomadic people, and there was no decided at- tempt to assimilate the Indians with the Europeans; hence the seem- ing advance in the United States and Canadas. There were no fetters on progress, and the new world kept pace with the old in North America, while Mexico, Central and South America were held re- tarded by the almost invincible customs of the aborigines. With races mixed, revolutions are inevitable for a time. The situation of the country, and the remarkable dissimilarities of the people, render a strong central government impossible. Rival parties with interests dissimilar, headed by bold leaders, are the natural con- comitants of an unstable government ; and they multiply and more frequently collide where government is in a transition state, perfect- 5 So FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS. ing itself by slow progression. The internal dissensions that have heretofore distracted Mexico, and her failure to adopt the standard in progression as fixed by her neighboring republic, are some of the inevitables; and there is no remedy save time and perseverance on the part of reformers who are kindred spirits with the Mexican people. No foreign power need ever expect with ruthless hand to break down Mexican customs, laws, peculiarities and institutions. Such changes as are made must be made slowly. With the American idea of government in Mexico the worst evils would arise. The ultraism of American reforms would defeat all reform. Mexico has taken no backward step. Since she made her natural secession from the Spanish crown she has progressed, and her insti- tutions have advanced in proportion. From each revolution she has emerged, purified, strengthened and with government better fitted for a people who in the end will enjoy full liberty under a pure republic. Her revolutions are the fires through which she must pass for refinement. They accomplish in a brief, though desperate, period what it might require ages to perfect by moral suasion. While the "home rule" has been tumultuous in the extreme, yet it was the only government that was destined by the Allwise to sur- vive ; to stand at last, perfected in its own way, a fitting monument to the sore trials and afflictions of a brave people. The antagonism between the United States and Mexico is unques- tionably more largely due to border troubles than to any other cause. The dividing lines between countries have always been scenes of trouble, and, considering the causes that exist for unfriendly feeling, the difficulties that occur on the Rio Grande are not remarkable. On either side of this line the stormy elements break with tumult, the one against the other. The floating, unsettled population drift to both borders, and the magistracy on both sides is feeble. Let there be a better magistracy on both borders. Let both governments bend their energies to hold in check th.e wild, disorderly elements that seek their boundaries, hoping to be under no rule. It is only by mutual effort in this direction that these troubles can be ADVAXTAGES AXD DISADVANTAGES. 58 1 suppressed, for it is in these regions that the strong arm of the law should be most heavily laid. In general, too, the chief disturbers of the peace are unworthy of protection. Let the consulates be filled by discreet and just men. When they can be selected from among those living on the border, speaking each other's language and having some acquaintance with each other's cus- toms, a great advantage is gained. Neither government should be regarded as intending wrong, vio- lating the laws of nations or treaties, until the case be too plain for dispute. When either republic violates the rights of citizens of the other, let peaceful arbitration heal the breach. A new era is dawning in Mexico. The advent of railways is open- ing a w'ide field ; her people are rousing from their slumber. The government is extending her protection over the poor as well as the rich classes, and rapid progress is witnessed on every side. The wealthy and powerful of the Mexican Republic owe it to themselves to let the spirit of freedom and independence find full growth in the bosoms of all, from the toiling peon on the hacienda to the wild, dark Indian in the fastnesses of his mountains. The administration of President Diaz marks a glorious epoch in Mexican historj', and the law recently passed by Congress, making a second term constitutional, gives a still brighter outlook for the future. A few decades with governments like that inaugurated by him and the co-operation of the powerful men in Mexico, and the republic will take rank with the foremost nations. Far from placing a bar to her progress, it behooves us to extend the right hand of fellowship, and hasten rather than impede a consum- mation so devoutly to be wished by all lovers of republican institu- tions. He who would attempt to retard this great work and seek to incite the lawless border element to a breaking up of the existing harmony would be possessed of the remorseless spirit of the piratical Norseman and the inhumanity of the buccaneers, combined with the desperate ambition of the barbarous Huns. It will only be when Americans have lost their love of freedom 37 5S: FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXfCANS. and pride of country that they will look with indifference upon such disturbance of our sister republic. This will never be; our wise statesmanship will see to it that the Mexican people be left to perfect their institutions according to those immutable laws that govern from the dawn to the close of a nation's life. AD I OS. My task is ended, my mission is accomplished. To show how dis- similar are the two republics in character, customs and traditions has been my aim ; to lead to a fraternal regard, the one toward the other, has been my hope. Vividly, while portraying them, have the scenes so varied and the strange characters with whom I mingled, floated in my mind. Scenery and characters are associated with friends whose names arc linked with a thousand tender memories. While there were so many ties that bound me to Mexico, there were others of a national and friendly nature ten-fold stronger, and my heart turned again to my native land. I was leaving the brilliant Mexican capital. The leave-takings of my friends may all be concentrated in one typical adios that still lingers unfading in rich vividness. Little Alfonzo, an ideal for a 584 FACE TO FACE 11'/ Til THE MEXICANS. painter, passionately clung to me, his great liquid eyes looking lov- ingly into mine as he whispered his broken adios between his sobs. He was the child type of the warm friends of maturer years whom I was leaving. The sun was setting behind the distant blue mountains; strains of sweet minstrelsy floated on the evening breeze; the panorama of singular characters passed me on their accustomed rounds. As the train moved gently along, I peered back and saw the distant lights gleaming in the city, and heard the long-drawn sweet tones of the evening bugle call, that seemed, as it dwelt on its last notes, to hold me bound in sweetest music, bidding me a yet more sorrowful fare- well. e£i^ i|3-p.>^n E*^ P i :f^=^-. S t^t:=t =^ m sii :i I =t=:t Face to Face with the Mexicans Domestic Life, Educational, Social, and Business Ways, Statesmanship and Literature, Legendary and General History of the Mexican People, as seen and studied by an american woman during seven Years of Familiar Intercourse with them. BY FANNY CHAMBERS GOOCH. iBitl) 200 iJllnstrations from ©riginal iDraroings anb Photographs, Giving a complete picturesque delineation of interesting and beautiful places, famous heroes, rulers, and authors, and a multiplicity of the detail of every-day life among that unique people. The Mexicans are very chary of admitting foreign men into their homes ; but a cultivated and inteUigent American woman (such as Mrs. GooCH is), properly introduced (as she was, through the most distinguished people of their nation), they receive with open-hearted hospitality. Thus our author had unexampled opportunities for observation in her kindly task. The cordial commendatory letters of Bishop RiLEV and Mrs. Cornelia TowNSEND, on the following page, give not only a comprehensive idea of the labor which Mrs. GooCH undertook in making this book, but valuable testimony to the fact that the work has been successfully and hrilliantly accomplished. It is A Treasury of Bomance, Legend, History, Picturesque Description, Valuable Information, and Genial Humor. IT IS ALSO Beaulifiilly Illustrated, BriiliantI) Printed, and Kielily Bound. Fawn-colored English Cloth, $4.25. The Same, gilt side, back, and edges, $5.00 ; Half Morocco, gilt edges, $7.50. SOLD ONLY BY SUBSCRIPTION. FORDS, HOWARD, & HULBERT, 27 PARK PLACE. NEW YORK. FROM RT. REV. H. CHAUNCEY RILEY, D.D., PROTESTANT EPISCOPAL BISHOP OF MEXICO, New Yukk, Oct. 25, 1887. My Dear Mrs. GoocH: The chapters of your forthcoming book on Me.xico tlial have been read to me are admirable. If all the other chapters of your work are equally interesting, you will have jirepared a most valuable publication. Having mingled with the rich and the poor in Mexico, you are able to speak from personal knowledge of their home life in a way which those who have hurriedly travelled through that land, of course, cannot. A noble thought has moved you to write this work on the sister republic, namely, the wish to make Mexico and its people better understood in the United States, and to correct many misconceptions that unfortunately are rife about that neigh- boring nation. Knowing how faithfully and industriously you have labored at your work, and how bravely and nobly you have faced and overcome many difficulties to achieve what you have accomplished, I trust that your work will meet with a hearty welcome and a wide sale. I gladly put my name down as a subscriber to the same, and remain with much respect. Yours, sincerely. J^f^ FROM MRS. CORNELIA TOWXSF.ND. IIIIKIKK.N VEARS A KKSIDKNT IN THE MEXICAN CAPITAL, AM) KNOWN AS THE "MOTHER OF THE AMERICAN COI.ONV." New Y(5uk, Oct. 25, 1887. Dear Mrs. GooCH : I h.-ive read with pleasure and deep interest the MS. of your work entitled " Face to Face with the .Mexicans," and congratulate the neigh- boring republic upon the acquisition of a faithful and impartial chronicler, for cer- tainly no nation on earth has been more thoroughly misrepresented by tourists and newspaper correspondents than Mexico. During the past decade I have observed that travellers and certain knights of the quill usually considered a sojourn of a few weeks in the Federal Capital ample time for obtaining tlata sufficient to '• write up Mexico," politically, socially and com- mercially. The fact that they could not speak Spanish, and had not the entree to that exclusive circle termed '■ La Alta Sociedad," did not deter them froin writing freely of "domestic life in Mexico." They obtained their information on all subjects from prejudiced and disappointed American speculators, or discouraged English and French colonists. Writing, of course, in accordance with the views of these foreigners, the result has usually been a tissue of absurdities or false statements. I remember well how courteously you were received by President Diaz and his charming wife, and how royally you were entertained by Gen. Riva Palacio and family. I recollect, too, your interviews with the distinguished philosopher and litterateur Ramon Manterola ; the venerable Prieto — Mexico's B^ranger — and the charining poet, Juan de Dios Peza. As to the brilliant men who are members of El Liceo Hidalgo, they may well be termed " the intellectual nobility of Mexico," and you must have deemed it a jjlorious privilege each time you atten;led a " V'elada Literaria" — I certainly did. Fortunately you met representative women of the highest class ; therefore vou have, I observe, paid just tribute to their virtues and accomplishments. I am particularly glad you have faithfully described those civilized Indians who form the " Servidumbre " or working-class, for they are honest, faithful and most excellent people. No doubt your book will serve 10 correct many errors, and to eradicate the preju- dices of Americans, who are too generally inclined to regard the Mexicans as cow- ardly, inefficient and deceitful simply because flippant and irresponsible writers have maligneil a brave, intelligent race, which, until recently, has been victimized by foreign tyrants and unprincipled revolutionists. You have been truthful, and have done justice to Mexico. Adios. 'BOOKS ARE THE FOOD OF YOUTH, THE DELIGHT OF OLD AGF., THE ORNAMENT OF PROSPERITY, THE REFUGE AND COMFORT OF ADVERSITY, A DELIGHT AT HOME." — Cicero. CHOICE AMERICAN WORKS WILLIAM CULLEN BRYANT, HARRIET BEECHER STOWE, DR. JOHN LORD, HON. ALBION W. TOURGEE, HENRY WARD BEECHER, PROF. JACOB HARRIS P^TTON, MAJ. GEORGE F. WILLIAMS, LOUISA T. CRAIGIN, FANNY CHAMBERS GOOCH, etc. ■^Vith 3|Uu:Strat»on.si bij GIBSON, DIELMAN, BIDA, EDWIN FORBES, CUSACK. And Many Other Celebrated Artists. SOLD BY SUBSCRIPTION. " I rejoice in this carrying the waters of knowledge to the very doors of the people, and almost coaxing them to drink. It is the beginning, 1 doubt not, of a great system of creating .in enlightened community." — Rev. JoHN ToDD, D.D. Selling the best books in an honorable way is a respectable, refined, and healthful pursuit. The reading habit is growing ; a vast population is to be supplied ; and there is work for all. No intelligent person need be without remunerative employment. Salesmen and ladies of good education are employed in every community to take orders for our high-class publications. For particulars address FORDS, HOWARD, & HULBERT, 27 PARK PLACE, NEW YORK. m RARK BOOK COI.I.RCTION THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF NORTH CAROLINA AT CHAPEL HILL Travel F1215 .124